A. Dean and Jean M. Larsen
Yellowstone Park Collection

F 353 .B79 1817

BRIGHAM YOUNG UNIVERSITY

3 1197 22166 0423

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2013

http://archive.org/details/travelsininterio1817brad

TRAVELS

IN

THE INTERIOR OF AMERICA,

IN THE

Years 1809, 1810, and 1811 ;

INCLUDING

A DESCRIPTION OF UPPER LOUISIANA,

TOGETHER AVITH

THE STATES OF OHIO, KENTUCKY, INDIANA, AND

TENNESSEE,

WITH THE

ILLINOIS AND WESTERN TERRITORIES^

AND CONTAINING

lUmarfejs ant) ©Ogerbattcmg

USEFUL TO

PERSONS EMIGRATING TO THOSE COUNTRIES.

By JOHN BRADBURY, F.L.S. London,

Corresponding Member of the Liverpool Philosophical Society, and Honorary Member of
the Literary and Philosophical Societies, New York, United States, America.

LIVERPOOL :

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,

By Smith and Galivay,

AND PUBLISHED BY SHERWOOD, NEELY, ANDJONE?, LONDON.

1817-

^ntneti at jstaitoncrs' p>aUt

TO HIS EXCELLENCY

DE WITT CLINTON,

GOVERNOR OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK,

PRESIDENT OF THE LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL
SOCIETY,

CITY OF NEW YORK, &c, &c.

THIS WORK

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

When I undertook to travel in Louisiana, it was intend-
ed that I should make New Orleans my principal place of
residence, and also the place of deposit for the result of
my researches. This intention I made known to Mr.
Jefferson, during my stay at Monticello, when he imme-
diately pointed out the want of judgment in forming that
arrangement, as the whole of the country round New
Orleans is alluvial soil, and therefore ill suited to such
productions as were the objects of my pursuit In con-
sequence of his representations, I changed my intentions,
and proceeded to St. Louis, one thousand four hundred
miles above Orleans by the course of the Mississippi,
where I employed myself, during the winter of 1810, in
making such preparations as I deemed necessary for the
preservation of what might be collected during the ensu-

VI

ing summer. In my subsequent journey up the Missouri,
although every facility was afforded me that the nature of
the expedition would allow, yet the necessity of conform-
ing to the rules laid down to secure the safety of the
party during the voyage, added to the known or supposed
proximity of the hostile Indians, during a considerable
part of our route, caused me to lose a great many oppor-
tunities, which, had my exertions been free, I should
not have clone. Besides these impediments, I lost the op-
portunity of collecting a great number of new plants on
my return, through the breach of faith towards me by
Mr. Lisa, who agreed that his boats should land me at
different places ; which promise he neither did, nor in-
tended to perform. For these reasons, I am persuaded
that much yet remains to be done in that interesting
country. When the whole of my collection was embark-
ed on the Missouri, at the Aricara nntion, it was exten-
sive; but being then two thousand nine hundred miles
from New Orleans, the losses by the way, and during my
subsequent sickness at St. Louis, greatly diminished it.
Immediately after my return to the United States, and
before I could make any arrangement, either for my re-
turn to England, or for the publication of the plants I
collected, the war broke out with this country : — I waited
for its termination, and made some arrangements which
caused a necessity for my stay some time longer.

Vli

I have made the above statement, because I think that
whoever undertakes a mission of the nature which I did,
where the duty is to be performed in a wilderness, ought
to give an account how he performed it, even in his own
defence; as it often happens that men are found, who,
from interested or malignant motives, will vilify his cha-
racter. I had intended that this should have been accom-
panied by a description of the objects collected, that had
not been before discovered; but on my return to England,
I found that my design was frustrated, by my collection
having been submitted to the inspection of a person of
the name of Pursh, who has published the most interest-
ing of my plants in an appendix to the Flora Americas
Septentr ion alls.

As my chief object has been to convey information
and to write the truth, I have not been particular in the
choice of words : if, therefore, the style meets with cri-
ticism, I shall neither be surprised nor disappointed. A
catalogue of some of the more rare plants in the neigh-
bourhood of St. Louis, and on the Missouri, is added, to-
gether with their habitats. To many it will be of no va-
lue ; but as it may be of some use to naturalists who may
visit those parts hereafter, I have thought proper to in-
sert it. In what relates to the country west of the Al-
leghanies, I have been brief, because a more diiated

via

account would have swelled the work much beyond
the limits I had prescribed to myself. A second visit to
those parts, in which my movements shall be less cir-
cumscribed, may enable me to give a more finished pic-
ture. In what has been said on those countries, I dis-
claim any design to encourage emigration ; and may be
credited in the assertion, because I can have no possible
interest in promoting it. I have told the truth, and I can
see no reason why it should have been suppressed.

Liverpool, August 1, 1817.

CONTENTS.

Page

Arrival at St. Louis, 9

Departure up the Missouri, 11

Canadian Boatmen, 12

Arrival at Bon Homme Island, 14

Introduction to Daniel Boond, 16

Colter's interesting escape from the Blackfoot Indians, .... 17

Indian war parties, 23

Manitou rocks described, 24

Boond's Lick settlement, 25

The skunk, 27

Arrival at a village near Fort Orleans, 31

First appearance of sand-stone and iron ore, 32

Increase of bees, 33

Arrival at Fort Osage, 36

Description of an Osage village, and the manners of the") 37

inhabitants, 3

Wood pigeons described, 44

Coal discovered in the bluffs, • 48

La Platte Riviere, ib.

Indications of Indian war parties, ib.

Description of the lake and hills near Papillon creek, .... 49

Departure overland for the Ottoes, 53

b

Page

Description of the Otto village, 56

Thunder storm near Blackbird Creek, 61

Blackbird's monument, „ 63

Account of Blackbird, (note) ib.

Maha village, 65

Introduction to the Big- Elk and the White Cow, 68

The author meets with three Poncar Indians, 74

Iron ore in the bluffs, 80

A large Indian war party attempt to oppose the progress") ~.

of the boats, J

Smoking the calumet, 87

Character of the Sioux Indians, 89

The boats meet another party of Indians, 98

Mr. Lisa's boats come up, 97

Herds of buffaloes, 106

Indian hunting, ib

Some account of the beaver, 107

Arrival at the Aricara town, 110

Account of the Indian language, Ill

Indian council, 112

Medicine man, 116

The Aricaras prepare to defend themselves against the Sioux, 120

Journey overland to the Missouri Fur Company's Fort,. . . . 127

Cannon-ball river, 131

Arrival at the Mandan town, 137

Journey continued, 138

Arrival at the Fort, 139

Dance of the squaws, 146

Indian depository of the dead, 147

Instance ot cruelty in an Indian chief, 148

Excursion to the Mandan village, 150

The author's rencontre with an Indian, 154

Return to the Aricara town, 156

Return of an Indian war party, 157

XI

Page

Indian mode of hunting buffaloes, 163

Customs of the Aricara Indians, „ 165

Departure for St. Louis, 174

Tremendous thunder storm, . „ . *. . . . 179

Battle of buffaloes, 182

Arrival at Fort Osage, 184

Account of the Grand Saline, on the Arkansas river, 185

Arrival at St. Louis, 188

Departure for New Orleans, 193

Planters and Sawyers in the Mississippi, . . 194

Dangerous interview with Chickasaws, 196

Earthquake at the Devil's Channel, 199

Arrival at Natchez, 208

New Orleans, 209

Vocabulary of the Osage language, 213

Oration of the Big Elk, 220

Narrative of a journey from the Aricara nation to the") ~~~

Pacific Ocean, J

Missouri Territory, or the country of Upper Louisiana, 234

Its vast extent, , . 235

Cheap purchase of, 236

Immense salt deposit in Upper Louisiana, 242

Saltpetre generated in caves, 248

Lead Mines, 250

State of agriculture, 263

Cultivation of cotton, and a description of the saw gin,. . . . 269

Rapacity of the Spanish governors, 276

Ohio State, 279

Extent of land that furnishes water to the Ohio river, .... 282

Abundance of coal, 283

Salt, 284

Beauty of the native woods, 289

Price of land, and amount of land tax, • . . . 292

Trades and professions, and price of labour, 296

Xll

Page

Constitution of the state of Ohio, 300

Manners and hospitality of the Americans, 304

Advantages of settling on the prairies, 308

Remarks and observations useful to emigrants, 310

Catalogue of rare plants, 335

Letters on animalcula infusoria and on the physiology of\

plants,

}

A JOURNAL, &c.

On the 31st December, 1809, I arrived at St.
Louis, in Upper Louisiana; intending to make
that town or neighbourhood my principal place of
residence, whilst employed in exploring the inte-
rior of Upper Louisiana and the Illinois Territory,
for the purpose of discovering and collecting sub-
jects in natural history, either new or valuable.
During the ensuing spring and summer, I made
frequent excursions alone into the wilderness., but
not farther than eighty or a hundred miles into
the interior. In the autumn of 1810 I dispatched
for Orleans, in seven packages, the result of my
researches ; but had the mortification soon after,
to hear that the boat containing my collection had
been driven ashore and damaged, on an island near
St. Genevive, sixty miles below St. Louis. As soon
as I received this information I went thither, but
learned that the boat had been repaired, and bad

1

10

proceeded on her voyage. On my return to St.
Louis, I was informed that a party of men had ar-
rived from Canada, with an intention to ascend
the Missouri, on their way to the Pacific Ocean,
by the same route that Lewis and Clarke had fol-
lowed, by descending the Columbia River. I soon
became acquainted with the principals of this party,
in whom the manners and accomplishments of gen-
tlemen were united with the hardihood and capa-
bility of suffering, necessary to the backwoodsman.
As they were apprized of the nature and object of
my mission, Mr. Wilson P. Hunt, the leader of
the party, in a very friendly and pressing manner,
invited me to accompany them up the lliver Mis-
souri, as far as might be agreeable to my views.
I had intended to remove from St. Louis to Ozark,
(or more properly Aux-arcs) on the Arkansas, and
to spend the remaining summer on that river ;
but considering this opportunity for exploring the
Missouri too valuable to be lost, I gladly accepted
the invitation, to which an acquaintance with
Messrs. Ramsey Crooks and Donald M'Kenzie, also
principals of the party, was no small inducement.
As it would not be practicable to ascend the
Missouri until the breaking up of the ice in
spring, Mr. Hunt concluded, that to avoid the
expense of supporting his party at St. Louis, it
would be better to station them during the
winter on some part of the Missouri, at a con-

11

siderable distance above its mouth, as, at any point
on that river above the settlements, five or six hun-
ters can easily provide for forty or fifty men. The
party therefore quitted St. Louis, and proceeded to
the mouth of the Naduet, which falls into the Mis-
souri 450 miles from the Mississippi. In the begin-
ning of March Mr. Hunt returned to St, Louis in
a boat with ten oars, and on the morning of the
12th, having completed his arrangements, he again
embarked for the Missouri. As the post was ex-
pected to arrive the morning following, I put my
trunks on board the boat, and determined to wait
until that time, and meet the party at St. Charles.
I must here observe, that the post to St. Louis is
dispatched from Louisville, in Kentucky, a dis-
tance of more than 300 miles, through a wilderness,
and from various causes is often retarded for seve-
ral weeks, as had been the case at that period. In
the evening I wras informed by a gentleman in St.
Louis, that a writ for debt had been taken out a-
gainst Dorion, (whom Mr. Hunt had engaged as
interpreter) by a person whose object was to defeat
the intentions of the voyage. I knew the detention
of Dorion would be of serious consequence to the
party, I therefore left St. Louis at two o'clock the
following morning, in company with a young Eng-
lishman of the name of Nuttall, determined to meet
the boat previous to its arrival at St. Charles, whicli
I effected j and Dorion was sent into the woods,

12

his squaw accompanying him. We arrived at St.
Charles about noon, and soon after Mr. Samuel
Bridge, a gentleman from Manchester, then living
at St. Louis, arrived also, with letters for me from
Europe, the post having come in as was expected.
We slept on board the boat, and in the morning
of the 14th took our departure from St. Charles,
the Canadians measuring the strokes of their oars
by songs, which were generally responsive betwixt
the oarsman at the bow and those at the stern :
sometimes the steersman sung, and was chorused
by the men.* We soon met with Dorion, but
without his squaw, whom it was intended should

* A few verses of one of their most favourite songs is an-
annexed ; and to show its frivolity to those unacquainted with
the language, an imitation in English is added.

I.

Derriere chez nous, ilya un etang,

Ye, ye ment.
Trois canards s'en vont baignans,
Tous du long de la riviere,
Legerement ma bergere,

Legerement ye ment.

II.

Trois canards s'en vont baignans,

Ye, ye ment.
Le fils du roi s'en va chassant,
Tous du long de la riviere,
Legerement ma bergere,

Legerement, ye ment.

13

accompany us. They had quarrelled, and he had
beaten her, in consequence of which she ran away.

III.

Le fils du roi s'en va chassant,

Ye, ye ment.
Avec son grand fusil d'argent,
Tous du long de la riviere,
Legerenient ma bergere,

Legerenient, ye ment. — kc. &c.

I.

Behind our house there is a pond,

Fal lal de ra.
There came three ducks to swim thereon ;
All along the river clear,
Lightly my shepherdess dear,

Lightly, fal de ra.

' II.
There came three ducks to swim thereon,

Pal lal de ra.
The prince to chase them he did run
All along the river clear,
Lightly my shepherdess dear,

Lightly, fal de ra.

III.

The prince to chase them he did run,

Fal lal de ra.
And he had his great silver gun,
All along the river clear,
Lightly my shepherdess dear,

Lightly, fal de ra.— kc. &c«

u

from him into the woods, "with a child in her arms,
and a large bundle on her back. A Canadian of
the name of St. Paul was sent in search of her. The
day was very rainy, and we proceeded only nine
miles, to Bon Homme Island, where we encamped,
and St. Paul arrived, but without the squaw. I
observed in the broken banks of this island a num-
ber of tuberous roots, which the Canadians call
pommes de terre. They are eaten by them, and
also by the Indians, and have much the consistence
and taste of the Jerusalem artichoke : they are the
roots of Glycine apios.

15th. — About two hours before day we were
hailed from the shore by Dorion's squaw, who had
been rambling all night in search of us. She was
informed that we would cross over to her at day
break, which we did, and took her on board. I
walked the most part of this day on the north side
of the river, which is partly bounded by rocks of
secondary limestone, at the foot of which I observ-
ed chrystals of quartz and calcareous spar, or car-
bonate of lime. We encamped opposite the re-
mains of the village of St. Andrew, which is now
abandoned.

lGth. — We this day passed the Tavern Rocks,
so called from a large cave therein, level with the
surface of the river. These rocks are nearly three

15

hundred feet high, and are of the same nature as
those wepassed yesterday, but more abundantly filled
with organic remains, consisting of anomice and
entrochii. On the islands which we passed there is
abundance of Equisetum hyemale, called by the set-
tlers rushes, by whom this plant is held in high es-
timation, on account of its affording winter food for
their cattle. On the first settlement of Kentucky,
the borders of the rivers were found to be thickly
set with cane, Arundlnacea macrocarpon of Michaux,
and it was one of the strongest inducements with
the first settlers to fix on a spot if cane was abun-
dant. On the Missouri the rushes are equally va-
luable, affording to the first settler winter food for
his cattle for several years, after which they perish,
being destroyed if fed on during the winter. We
this night arrived at Point L'Abaddie, where we
encamped.

17th. — Early this morning I walked along the
river, and was much struck with the vast size to
which the cotton wood tree* grows. Many of
those which I observed this day exceeded seven
feet in diameter, and continued with a thickness
very little diminished to the height of 80 or 90 feet,
where the limbs commenced. After breakfast we

* Populus angulosa of Michaux, called by the French
Liard.

16

crossed to the north side of the river, and in the
afternoon landed at a French village named Cha-
rette. In the woods surrounding this place I ob-
served a striking instance of the indolence of the
inhabitants. The rushes in the neighbourhood had
been already destroyed by the cattle, and from the
neglect of the owners to provide winter food for
their horses, they had been reduced to the neces-
sity of gnawing the bark off the trees, some hun-
dreds of which were stripped as far as these animals
could reach. The cotton wood, elm, mulberry*
and nettle trees* suffered the most. On leaving
Charette, Mr. Hunt pointed out to me an old mail
standing on the bank, who he informed me was
Daniel Boond, the discoverer of Kentucky. As I
had a letter of introduction to him, from his ne-
phew Colonel Grant, I went ashore to speak to
him, and requested that the boat might go on, as I
intended to walk until evening. I remained for
some time in conversation with him. He informed
me that he was eighty-four years of age ; that he
had spent a considerable portion of his time alone
in the back woods, and had lately returned from
his spring hunt, with nearly sixty beaver skins. On
proceeding through the woods I came to the river
Charette, which falls into the Missouri about a mile
above the village, and was now much swelled by

* Celtis wassifolia.

17

the late rains. As the boat had disappeared be*
hind an island, and was at too great a distance to
be hailed, I got across by swimming, having tied
my clothes together, and inclosed them in my deer
skin hunting coat, which I pushed before me. I
overtook the boat in about three hours, and we en-
camped at the mouth of a creek called Boeuf, near
the house of one Sullens. I enquired of Sullens
for John Colter, one of Lewis and Clark's party,
whom General Clark had mentioned to me as be-
ing able to point out the place on the Missouri
where the skeleton of a fish, above forty feet long,
had been found. Sullens informed me that Colter
lived about a mile from us, and sent his son to in-
form him of our arrival ; but we did not see him
that evening.

18th. — At day-break Sullens came to our camp,
and informed us that Colter* would be with us in a

* This man came to St. Louis in May, 1810, in a small
canoe, from the head waters of the Missouri, a distance of three
thousand miles, which he traversed in thirty days ; I saw him on
his arrival, and received from him an account of his adventures
after he had separated from Lewis and Clarke's party : one of
these, from its singularity, I shall relate. On the arrival of the
party on the head waters of the Missouri, Colter, observing" an
appearance of abundance of beaver being" there, he got permis-
sion to remain and hunt for some time, which he did in company
with a man of the name of Dixon, who had traversed the im-
mense tract of country from St. Louis to the head waters of tke

18

few minutes. Soon after he arrived, and accom-
panied us for some miles, but could not give me

Missouri alone. Soon after he separated from Dixon, and trap-
ped in company with a hunter named Potts ; and aware of the
hostility of the Blackfeet Indians, one of whom had been killed
by Lewis, they set their traps at night, and took them up early
in the morning, remaining concealed during the day. They were
examining their traps early one morning, in a creek about six
miles from that branch of the Missouri called Jefferson's Fork,
and were ascending in a canoe, when they suddenly heard a great
noise, resembling the trampling of animals ; but they could not
ascertain the fact, as the high perpendicular banks on each side
of the river impeded their view. Colter immediately pronounced
it to be occasioned by Indians, and advised an instant retreat,
but was accused of cowardice by Potts, who insisted that the
noise was caused by buffalo, and they proceeded on. In a few
minutes afterwards their doubts were removed, by a party of
Indians making their appearance on both sides of the creek, to
the amount of five or six hundred, who beckoned them to come
ashore. As retreat was now impossible, Colter turned the head
of the canoe to the shore ; and at the moment of its touching,
an Indian seized the rifle belonging to Potts ; but Colter, who is
a remarkably strong man, immediately retook it, and handed it
to Potts, who remained in the canoe, and on receiving it pushed
off into the river. He had scarcely quitted the shore when an
arrow was shot at him, and he cried out, " Colter, I am wound-
ed'' Colter remonstrated with him on the folly of attempting
to escape, and urged him to come ashore. Instead of complying,
he instantly levelled his rifle at an Indian, and shot him dead on
the spot. This conduct, situated as he was, may appear to have
been an act of madness ; but it was doubtless the effect of sud-
den, but sound reasoning ; for if taken alive, he must have ex-
pected to be tortured to death, according to their custom. He
was instantly pierced with arrows so numerous, that, to use the

19

the information I wished for. He seemed to havfe
a strong inclination to accompany the expedition \

language of Colter, " he was made a riddle of" They now
seized Colter, stripped him entirely naked, and began to consult
on the manner in which he should be put to death. They were
first inclined to set him up as a mark to shoot at ; but the chief
interfered, and seizing him by the shoulder, asked him if he
could run fast ? Colter, who had been some time amongst the
Kee-kat-sa, or Crow Indians, had in a considerable degree ac-
quired the Blackfoot language, and was also well acquainted with
Indian customs, he knew that he had now to run for his life, with
the dreadful odds of five or six hundred against him, and those
armed Indians ; therefore cunningly replied that he was a very
bad runner, although he was considered by the hunters as re-
markably swift. The chief now commanded the party to remain
stationary, and led Colter out on the prairie three or four hun-
dred yards, and released him, bidding him to save himself if he
<:ould. At that instant the horrid war whoop sounded in the
ears of poor Colter, who, urged with the hope of preserving life,
ran with a speed at which he was himself surprised. He pro-
ceeded towards the Jefferson Fork, having to traverse a plain six
miles in breadth, abounding with the prickly pear, on which he
was every instant treading with his naked feet. He ran nearly
half way across the plain before he ventured to look over his
shoulder, when he perceived that the Indians were very much
scattered, and that he had gained ground to a considerable dis-
tance from the main body ; but one Indian, who carried a spear,
was much before all the rest, avnd not more than a hundred
yards from him. A faint gleam of hope now cheered the heart
of Colter; he derived confidence from the belief that escape
was within the bounds of possibility, but that confidence was
nearly being fatal to him, for he exerted himself to such a de-
gree, that the blood gushed from his nostrils, and soon almost
covered the fore part of his body. He had now arrived within

50

but having been lately married, he reluctantly took
leave of us. I walked this day along the bluffs,

a mile of the river, when he distinctly heard the appalling sound
of footsteps behind him, and every instant expected to feel the
spear of his pursuer. Again he turned his head, and saw the
savage not twenty yards from him. Determined if possible to
avoid the expected blow, he suddenly stopped, turned round,
and spread out his arms. The Indian, surprised by the sudden-
ness of the action, and perhaps at the bloody appearance of
Colter, also attempted to stop, but exhausted with running, he
fell whilst endeavouring- to throw his spear, which stuck in the
ground, and broke in his hand. Colter instantly snatched up
the pointed part, with which he pinned him to the earth, and
then continued his flight. The foremost of the Indians, on ar-
riving at the place, stopped till others came up to join them,
when they set up a hideous yell. Every moment of this time
was improved by Colter, who, although fainting and exhausted,
succeeded in gaining the skirting of the cotton wood trees, on
the borders of the fork, through which he ran, and plunged
into the river. Fortunately for him, a little below this place
there was an island, against the upper point of which a raft of
drift timber had lodged, he dived under the raft, and after se-
veral efforts, got his head above water amongst the trunks of
trees, covered over with smaller wood to the depth of several
feet. Scarcely had he secured himself, when the Indians ar-
rived on the river, screeching and yelling, as Colter expressed
it, " like so many devils." They were frequently on the raft
during the day, and were seen through the chinks by Colter,
who was congratulating himself on his escape, until the idea
arose that they might set the raft on fire. In horrible suspense
he remained until night, when hearing no more of the Indians,
he dived from under the raft, and swam silently down the river
to a considerable distance, when he landed, and travelled all
Bight. Although happy in having escaped from the Indians,

21

which were beautifully adorned with Anemone lie-
patica. We encamped near the lower end of Lu-
tre (Otter) Island.

The 19th commenced and continued rainy.
When we had passed the lower settlements, we be-
gan to see the river and its borders in a state of
nature. The rushes (Equicetum hyemale) were so
thick and tall, that it was both painful and difficult
to walk along, even at a very slow pace.

20th. — The river on the south side, during this
day's travel, is mostly bounded by bluffs, or rocks,
of whitish limestone ; their appearance is very pic-
turesque ; the tops are crowned with cedar, and the
ledges and chinks are adorned with Mespilus Cana-
densis, now in flower. We encamped this night
seven miles above the mouth of Gasconade river.

21st. — The rain had been almost incessant since

his situation was still dreadful : he was completely naked, under
a burning sun : the soles of his feet were entirely filled with the
thorns of the prickly pear ; he was hungry, and had no means
of killing game, although he saw abundance around him, and
was at least seven days journey from Lisa's Fort, on the Bighorn
branch of the Roche Jaune river. These were circumstances
under which almost any man but an American hunter would
have despaired. He arrived at the fort in seven days, having
subsisted on a root much esteemed by the Indians of the Mis-
souri, now knovvn by naturalists as Psoralen esculenta*

22

our departure from St. Charles, but had now ceased-
Iwent ashore, after breakfast, intendingto walk along
the bluffs, and was followed by Mr. Nuttall. We
observed that the boat immediately passed over to
the other side of the river, on account of its being
more easy to ascend ; as this sometimes happened
several times in a day, we felt no concern about
it, but proceeded on our researches. In the fore-
noon we came to a creek or river, much swelled
by the late rains ; I was now surprised to find that
Mr. Nuttall could not swim : as we had no toma-
hawk, nor any means of constructing a raft, and
were certain that the boat was before us, we looked
for no alternative but to cross the creek by fording
it. We therefore continued to ascend, and in about
half an hour arrived at a place where a tree had
fallen in on the opposite side of the river, which
reached about half way across it. I stripped, and
attempted to wade to it, but found it impracticable.
I then offered to take Nuttall on my back, and swim
over with him ; but he declined, and we continued
our route. About a league further up, we found a
raft of drift-wood, which had been stopped by a
large tree that had fallen into the river ; this we
crossed, and with some difficulty overtook the boat-
We arrived at a French village, called Cote sans
Dessein, about two miles below the mouth of
Osage river. After we had formed our camp, the
interpreter went into the village where he had some

53

acquaintance. On his return, he informed us that
there was a war party of Indians in the neighbour-
hood, consisting of the Ayauwais, Potowatomies, Si-
oux, and Saukee nations, amounting to nearly three
hundred warriors. He had learned, that this party
were going against the Osages ; but having disco-
vered that there was an Osage' boy in the village,
they were waiting in order to catch and scalp him.
He also informed us, that we might expect to fall
in with other war parties crossing the Missouri
higher up. This was unpleasant news to us, as it
is always desirable that white men should avoid
meeting with Indian war parties : for if they are
going to war, they are generally associated in larger
parties than can subsist by hunting, from 'which
they refrain, to prevent being discovered by their
enemies, wherefore they are almost certain to levy
contributions of provisions or ammunition on all
they meet. When they return from war, the dan-
ger is still greater ; for, if successful, they often
commit wanton ravages ; and if unsuccessful, the
shame of returning to their nation without having
performed any achievement, often induces them to
attack those whom they would, in other circum-
stances, have peaceably passed. As we were six-
teen men, well armed, we were determined to resist
any act of aggression, in case of a rencontre with
them.

24

22nd, 23rd, and 24th. — Almost incessant rain ;
our bread was now becoming very mouldy, not
having been properly baked. Mr. Hunt anxiously
waited for a fine day, to dry it, together with the
rest of the baggage.

25th. — Met a boat with sixteen oars coming from
Fort Osage to St. Louis, for supplies : news had
arrived at the fort, that the Great Osages had lately
killed an American at their village.

26th. — It rained nearly the whole of this day -y
the flats near the river still continue to be so thickly
covered with rushes, that it is next to impossible to
travel over them.

27th. — The north bank of the river now assumes
a most interesting appearance ; it consists of a range
of rocks, nearly perpendicular, from 150 to 300
feet high ; they are composed of a very white lime-
stone, and their summits are covered to the edge
with cedar. The length of this range is about six
miles, and at the upper end they assume a semi-
circular form. These are called the Manitou Rocks,
a name given to them by the Indians, who often
apply this term Manitou to uncommon or singular
productions of nature which they highly venerate.
On or near these Manitou s, they chiefly deposit
their offerings to the Great Spirit ox Father of Life.

25

This has caused some to believe, that these Mani-
tous are the objects that they worship, but that
opinion is erroneous. The Indians believe that the
Great Spirit either inhabits, or frequently visits,
these manifestations of his power ; and that offer-
ings deposited there, will sooner attract his notice,
and gain his auspices, than in any other place.
These offerings are propitiatory, either for success
in war or in hunting, and consist of various articles,
of which the feathers of the war eagle* are in the
greatest estimation. On these rocks, several rude
figures have been drawn by the Indians, with red
paint ; they are chiefly in imitation of buffaloe,
deer, &c. one of these, according with their idea of
the Great Spirit, is not unlike our common repre-
sentation of the devil. We encamped this night
a little above the mouth of the Bonne Femme, a
small river on the north side, where the tract of
land, called Boond's Lick settlement, commences,
supposed to be the best land in Western America
for so great an area ; it extends about 150 miles up
the Missouri, and is near 50 miles in breadth.

28th. — I left the boats early, intending to walk
to the Lick settlements, which are the last on the
river, excepting those occupied by one or two fami-
milies near Fort Osage. After travelling eight or

* Falco melanretos.

9

26

ten miles, I was surprised in the woods by a severe
thunder storm ; not knowing whether I could reach
the settlements before night, I returned to meet the
boat, and found our two hunters, who had sheltered
themselves in a hollow tree. They had killed a
buck, on a part of which we dined, and carried the
remainder to the boat, and we arrived at the first
house, belonging to a planter, named Hibband. —
This evening we had a most tremendous thunder
storm ; and about nine o'clock, a tree, not more
than fifty yards from our camp, was shivered by
lightning. Mr. Hunt, Mr. Nuttall, and myself,
who were sitting in the tent, sensibly felt the action
of the electric fluid.

29th. — As Mr. Hunt had some business with one
of the settlers, we walked to his house, where we
heard that war had already commenced between
the Osages and the confederate nations, and that
the former had killed seven of the Ayauways. This
determined us to continue our practice of sleeping
on our arms, as we had done since the 21st. We
slept this night about a league above the settle-
ments,

30th. — We were now beyond all the settlements,
except those at Fort Osage, and Mr. Hunt resolved
to send the hunters out more frequently, as game
might now be expected in abundance. I accom-

parried them, and we killed a buck and a doe.
I found the country, three or four miles from the
river, very broken or stony. The almost incessant
rains had now raised the Missouri to within a few
feet of its annual flood, which rendered the navi-
gation very difficult.

31st. — The morning was rainy, and was succeed-
ed by a strong north wind, which caused a sudden
change in the temperature of the weather: the 30th
had been warm, but this night, the water in a tin
cup of a pint measure that had been left full in the
boat, was found to be nearly all solid ice, on the
morning of the first of April.

April 1st. — After breakfast I went ashore with
the two hunters, Harrington and Mears, but soon
separated from them in order to visit the bluffs. — ■
In the evening I descended into the valley, and on
my way to find the boat, observed a skunk,* (Fiver-

* This animal in its defence discharges a few drops of a liquid
so foetid, that the stench can scarcely be endured by any animal.
Clothes on which the smallest particle has fallen, must be buried
in the earth for at least a month before they can be worn. This
liquor is highly inflamable, and is secreted in a gland beneath
the tail, from which it is thrown with a force that will carry it
to the distance of three or four yards. Only a very few of the
American dogs can be induced to attack it, and those are so
powerfully affected by the horrid stench, that they continue to

r 9.

«28

ra mephitis J and being desirous of procuring the
skin, fired at it, but with shot only, having that day
taken out my fowling-piece jnstead of my rifle.
It appeared that I had either missed entirely, or
only slightly wounded it, as it turned round in-
stantly, and ran towards me. Being well aware of
the consequence if overtaken, I fled, but was so
closely pursued, that I was under the necessity of
reloading whilst in the act of running. At the
next discharge I killed it, but as it had ejected its
offensive liquor upon its tail, I could not touch it„
but cut a slender vine, of which I made a noose,
and dragged my prize to the boat. I found that
the Canadians considered it as a delicacy, and were
desirous of procuring it to eat ; this enabled me to
obtain the skin without having to perform the dis-
gusting operation of taking it off myself. Soon
after my arrival, Harrington came in, and brought
the intelligence that they had killed a large bear
about four miles off. He had left Mears engaged
in skinning it, and came to request that one or two
men might be sent to assist in fetching it in.
As it was near night, Mr. Hunt determined to
stop, and two of the Canadians were sent along
with Harrington, I also accompanied them. Al-

howl for a considerable time afterwards, and instinctively relieve
themselves by scratching holes in the earth, into which they put
their nose.

29

though our course lay through a very thick wood,
Harrington led us with greai precision towards
the place, and when he supposed himself near it,
he stopped, and we gave a shout. In a few seconds
afterwards, we heard the discharge of a rifle, and
also a shout from Mears, who was within two hun-
dred yards of us. On joining him we were sur-
prized to find that he had two bears. He inform-
ed us, that after the departure of Harrington he
reloaded his rifle and laid it beside him whilst he
was skinning and cutting up the bear, — -he had
nearly completed this operation, when he heard a
rustling, as if an animal was coming towards him.
To defend himself, he seized his piece, and at the
moment we shouted, a bear appeared in view.
Not seeing Mears, he laid his fore paws on the
trunk of a fallen tree, and turned his head to look
back : Mears could not have wished for a better
opportunity, he shot him through the head. The
bears were very large, and as the night had set in
before the latter was skinned and cut up, it was
too late to send to the boat for assistance j I there-
fore offered to carry a part, provided they would
allot to me the skins, as they were the only clean
part of the spoil ; this proposition was agreed to,
and we set out. Before we had proceeded far, it
became quite dark, which caused us to take a
wrong direction, that led to a swamp. In addi-
tion to our difficulties, the underwood consisted

30

chiefly of the prickly ash,* by which our faces and
hands were continually scratched : there was also
an abundance of small prickly vines entwined
among the bushes, of a species of smilax. These
were easily avoided during day-light, but they
were now almost every instant throwing some of us
down. Whilst we were deliberating whether it
would not be advisable to stop, make a fire, and
remain there during the night, we heard the re-
port of a gun, which we thought proceeded from
the boat : we therefore steered our course in the
direction of the sound ; shortly afterwards we per-
ceived before us a light glimmering through the
trees, and in less than half an hour we had a full
view of it. Mr. Hunt, from our long delay, had
become apprehensive of what had really happened,
viz. that we had lost our way, and having observed
near the camp a very large cotton-wood tree, which
was dead, and evidently hollow, he caused a hole
to be cut into the cavity near the root, and a quan-
tity of dry weeds being put in, it was set on fire.
The trunk was at least seventy or eighty feet in
length before the broken limbs commenced, se-
veral of these projected eight or ten feet, and were
also hollow ; the flames, impelled by so long a
column of rarefied air, issued from the top, and
from the ends of the limbs, with a surprising force,

* Zanthoxylou clava Hercules.

31

and with a noise equal to that of a blast furnace.
Although smarting with pain, weary, wet, and
hungry, not having eaten any thing since morning,
I sat down to enjoy the scene, and have seldom
witnessed one more magnificent. On relating to
the hunters this evening, that I had been pursued
by a skunk, they laughed heartily, and said it was
no uncommon thing, having been often in the same
predicament themselves.

2nd. — We this day passed the scite of a village
on the north-east side of the river, once belonging
to the Missouri tribe. Four miles above it are the
remains of Fort Orleans, formerly belonging to
the French ; it is 240 miles from the mouth of the
Missouri. We passed the mouth of La Grande
Riviere, near which I first observed the appearance
of prairie,* on the alluvion of the river. Our
hunters went out, but soon returned without at-
tempting to kill any thing, having heard some shots

* Prairie is the term given to such tracts of land as are di-
vested of timber. In travelling west from the Alleghanies they
occur more frequently, and are of greater extent as we approach
the Mississippi. When we proceed to the distance of two or
three hundred miles west of that river, the whole country is of
this description, which continues to the rocky mountains west-
ward, and from the head waters of the Mississippi, to near the
Gulf of Mexico ; an extent of territory which probably equals
in area the whole empire of China.

32

fired, which they discovered proceeded from In-
dians in pursuit of elk. The navigation had been
very difficult for some days, on account of the fre-
quent occurrence of what is termed by the boat-
men embarras. They are formed by large trees
falling into the river, where it has undermined the
banks ; some of these trees remain still attached by
their roots to the firm ground, and the drift-wood
being collected by the branches, a dam of the
length of the tree is formed, round the point of
which the water runs with such velocity, that in
many instances it is impossible to stem it. On ac-
count of these obstacles, wre were frequently under
the necessity of crossing the river. This day the
carcasses of several drowned buffaloes passed us.

3rd.— I walked the greatest part of the day, but
found it troublesome, being much annoyed by the
prickly ash. In the evening we had another severe
thunder storm.

41 h. — The navigation became less difficult, as the
river had fallen four feet.

5th. — Went out with the hunters, who shot no-
thing but a goose, (Anas Canadensis) that was sit-
ting on a tree beside its nest, on which was the fe-
male. Observed for the first time that the rocks
bordering the river were sand-stone. In these I
found nodules of iron ore imbedded.

33

6th.— Walked all day, and in the afternoon met
the hunters, who had found a bee tree,# and were
returning to the boat for a bucket, and a hatchet
to cut it down. I accompanied them to the tree.
It contained a great number of combs, and about
three gallons of honey. The honey bees have been
introduced into this continent from Europe, but at
what time I have not been able to ascertain. Even
if it be admitted that they were brought over soon
after the first settlement took place, their increase
since appears astonishing, as bees are found in all
parts of the United States ; and since they have
entered upon the fine countries of the Illinois and
Upper Louisiana, their progress westward has been
surprisingly rapid. It is generally known in Upper
Louisiana, that bees had not been found westward
of the Mississippi prior to the year 1797* t They
are now found as high up the Missouri as the Maha
nation, having moved westward to the distance
of 600 miles in 14 years. Their extraordinary

* The term given in America to a hollow tree, containing a
swarm of bees.

f At that time the natural history of the bee was not very
well known at St. Louis. They relate there, that a French lady
of that place having received a present of honey from Kaskas-
kias, was much delighted with it, and being told it was produced
by a kind of fly, she sent a negro with a small box to Kaskaskias
(GO miles) to get a pair of the flies, in order that she might
obtain the breed.

54

progress in these parts is probably owing to a por-
tion of the country being prairie, and yielding
therefore a succession of flowers during the whole
summer, which is not the case in forests. Bees
have spread over this continent in a degree and
with a celerity so nearly corresponding with that of
the Anglo-Americans, that it has given rise to a
belief, both amongst the Indians and the whites,
that bees are their precursors, and that to whatever
part they go the white people will follow. I am
of opinion that they are right, as I think it as im-
possible to stop the progress of the one as of the
other. We encamped this night at the bottom of
an island.

7th. — This morning I went upon the island, ac-
companied by one of the Frenchmen named Guar-
depee, to look for game. We were wholly unsuc-
cessful in our pursuit, although the island is of
considerable extent. On arriving at the upper end
of it, we perceived a small island, of about two
acres, covered with grass only, and separated from
the large one by a narrow channel, the mouth of
which was covered with drift timber. We passed
over, and walked through the grass, and having
given up all hopes of game, we were proceeding to
the river to wait for the boat, when suddenly my
companion, who was before me, stopped, fired, and
jumped aside, crying out, " Voila O diable7 tirez,"

35

at the same time pointing towards the grass a few
steps before him. I looked, and saw a bear not
live yards from us. I immediately fired, and we
retired to a short distance to reload, but on our
return found the animal expiring. It was a female,
with three small cubs in her bed, about two yards
from where she was killed. She had heard us ap-
proach, and was advancing to defend them. I took
one of the cubs in my arms. It seemed sensible
of its misfortune, and cried at intervals. It was
evident that whenever it uttered a cry the convul-
sions of thedying mother increased, and I really felt
regret that we had so suddenly cut the ties of so
powerful an affection.* Whilst we breakfasted the
bear was cut up, and, with the young ones, taken
on board. We encamped this night about twelve
miles below Fort Osage.

8th. — About ten o'clock we came in sight of the
fort, about six miles distant. We had not been long

* The great attachment which the she bear has for her young
is well known to the American hunter. No danger can induce
her to abandon them. Even when they are sufficiently grown
to be able to climb a tree, her anxiety for their safety is but lit-
tle diminished. At that time, if hunted and attacked by dogs,
her first care is to make her young climb to a place of safety.
If they show any reluctance, she beats them, and having suc-
ceeded, turns fearlessly on her pursuers. Perhaps in animal
economy maternal affection is almost always commensurate with
the helplessness of the young.

3(5

in sight before we saw the flag was hoisted, and at
noon we arrived, saluting with a volley as we pass-
ed on to the landing place, where we met Mr.
Crooks, who had come down from the wintering
station at the mouth of the river Naduet to meet
tis. There were also collected at the landing place
about 200 Indians, men, women, and children, of
the Petit Osage nation, whose village was then a-
bout 300 yards from the fort. We passed through
them to pay our respects to Lieutenant Brownson,
who then commanded in the absence of Captain
Clemson. He received us very politely, and in-
sisted that we should eat at his table during our
stay, I had with me an introductory letter to Dr.
Murray, physician to the garrison, whom I found
disposed to give me every information relative to
the customs and manners of the Osage nation, and
from him also I received a vocabulary of a consi-
derable number of words in that language.* He
walked with me down to the boats, where we found
a number of squaws assembled, as Dr. Murray as-
sured me, for the same purpose as females of a cer-
tain class in the maritime towns of Europe crowd
round vessels lately arrived from a long voyage,
and it must be admitted with the same success.
Towards evening an old chief came down, and ha-
rangued the Indians assembled about the boats, for

* See Appendix, No. I.

87

the purpose of inviting the warriors of the late ex-
pedition to a feast prepared for them in the village.
I was told it was intended that the dance of the
scalp should be performed on the occasion of the
war party having brought in seven scalps from the
Ayauwais, a village belonging to whom they had
destroyed, and killed two old men and five women
and children. All the rest had fled at their ap-
proach ; but as rain came on the dance was not
performed. At evening Dr. Murray proposed that
we should walk into the village, and I found it to
consist of about one hundred lodges of an oblong
form, the frame of timber, and the covering mats,
made of the leaves of flag, or Typha palustris. On
our return through the town, we called at the lodge
belonging to a chief named Waubuschon, with
whom Dr. Murray was particularly acquainted.
The floor was covered with mats, on which they
sat ; but as I was a stranger, I was offered a cushion.
A wooden bowl was now handed round, containing
square pieces of cake, in taste resembling ginger-
bread. On enquiry I found it was made of the
pulp of the persimon,* mixed with pounded
corn. This bread they called staninca. Short-
ly afterwards some young squaws came in, with
wiiom the doctor (who understood the Osage
language) began to joke, and in a few minutes
they seemed to have overcome all bashfulness,

* Diospyros Virginiaaa.

38

or even modesty. Some of their expressions,
as interpreted to me, were of the most obscene na-
ture. The squaw of our host laughed heartily, and
did all in her power to promote this kind of con-
versation. I expressed my surprise to Dr. Murray,
but was informed by him that similar conduct
would have been pursued at any other lodge in the
village. We left the lodge of Waubuschon, and
went to that of the chief. On the roof the seven
scalps were placed, tied to sticks ornamented with
racoon tails. We were shewn to the upper end of
the lodge, and sat down on the ground. I learned
that the chief was not present ; that he was a boy
of six years of age, his name Young White Hair,
and that the tribe was now governed by a regent.
Immediately a warrior came in, and made a speech,
frequently pointing to the scalps on the roof, as
they were visible through the hole that admitted
the smoke to pass. I understood that he had dis-
tinguished himself in the late expedition against
the Ayauways. After shaking hands with all round,
we left the lodge, and in our return to the boat we
met the squaw belonging to our interpreter, who
being of the Ayauway nation, appeared to be much
afraid of the Osages during our passage up the
river, and it was thought with reason, as on our
first interview with the commandant, it had been
debated whether or not it would be prudent to send
a file of men to conduct her from the boat to the
fort during our stay. On enquiry we found that

39

she had been invited up to the village by some of
the Osages, and of course, according to Indian
custom, would be as safe with them as in the fort.

I enquired of Dr. Murray concerning a practice
which I had heard prevailed amongst the Osages,
of rising before day to lament their dead. He in-
formed me that such was really the custom, and
that the loss of a horse or a dog was as powerful a
stimulus to their lamentations as that of a relative
or friend ; and he assured me, that if I should be
awake before day the following morning, I might
certainly hear them. Accordingly on the 9th I
heard before day that the howling had commenced 5
and the better to escape observation, I wrapped a
blanket round me, tied a black handkerchief on my
head, and fastened on my belt, in which I stuck my
tomahawk, and then walked into the village. The
doors of the lodges were closed, but in the greater
part of them the women were crying and howling
in a tone that seemed to indicate excessive grief.
On the outside of the village I heard the men who
Dr. Murray had informed me always go out of the
lodges to lament. I soon came within twenty paces
of one, and could see him distinctly, as it was moon-
light: he also saw me and ceased, upon which I with-
drew. I was more successful with another, whom
I approached nearer unobserved. He rested his
back against the stump of a tree, and continued for

40

'about twenty seconds to cry out in a loud and high
tone of voice, when he suddenly lowered to a low
muttering, mixed with sobs : in a few seconds he
again raised to the former pitch.* We breakfasted
with the commandant, and afterwards walked out
to view some improvements he had made in the
fort. In our walk we observed what, on the first
view appeared to be two squaws carrying a tub of
water, suspended on a pole. Mr. Crooks desired
me to notice them, which I did, and remarked that
one of them had more the appearance of a man
than of a woman. He assured me that it was a
man, and that there were several others in the vil-
lage, who, like the one we saw, were condemned
for life to associate with the squaws, to wear the
same dress, and do the same drudgery. I now
learned, that when the Osages go to war, they keep
a watchful eye over the young men who are then
making their first essay in arms, and such as appear
to possess the necessary qualifications are admitted
to the rank of warriors, or, according to their own
idiom, brave men. But if any exhibit evident proofs
of cowardice, on the return of the party they are

* I have been informed, that when the Osages were in the
habit of robbing the white settlers, it was customary with them,
after they had entered the house, and before they proceeded to
plunder, to blacken their faces, and cry. The reason they gave
for this was, that they were sorry for the people whom they were
going to rob.

41

compelled to assume the dress and character of wo-
men, and their doom is fixed for life, as no opportunity
is afterwards afforded them to retrieve their charac-
ter.* The men do not associate with them, nor are
they suffered to marry, or have any intercourse with
the women: they may be treated with the greatest in-
dignity by any warrior, as they are not suffered to re-
sent it. I found, on enquiry, that the late war party
hadnot been conducted by any of the principal chiefs,
a circumstance which often happens, as any of the
noted warriors may lead a party, provided he can ob-
tain adherents, and he finds no difficulty in procur-
ing the sanction of the chiefs ; but in this case he
must travel without mockasons, or even leggings.
He goes the foremost of the party, makes the fire at

* It is customary amongst the Missouri Indians to register
every exploit in war, by making a notch for each on the handle
of their tomahawks, and they are estimated as being rich or poor
in proportion to the number of notches. At their war dances,
any warrior who chuses may recount his exploits. This is done
by pointing to each notch, and describing the particular act that
entitled him to it. The Nodowessies, or Sioux, fix up a post
near the war fire, to represent the enemy of each warrior in suc-
cession whilst he is recounting his deeds. During his harangue
he strikes the post when in the act of describing how he struck
his enemy, and, like Alexander, " fights his battles o'er again."
Mr. Crooks informed me, that the day before our arrival at the
fort he saw an Osage beating and kicking another, who suffered
it patiently. Mr. Crooks asked him why he did not defend him-
self ? " Oh!" said he, shewing the handle of his tomahawk,
" / am too poor ; he is richer than I am."

D

42

night, and stands to keep watch whilst the party lie
down to sleep, nor can he lie down unless a warrior
rises and takes his place. This indulgence he must
not require, but may accept, if voluntarily offered.
In pursuing the object of the expedition his com-
mands are absolute, and he is obeyed without a
murmur. The Osages are so tall and robust as al-
most to warrant the application of the term gigantic:
few of them appear to be under six feet, and many
are above it. Their shoulders and visages are broad,
which tends to strengthen the idea of their being
giants. On our return from viewing the improve-
ments in the fort, I was introduced to Mr. Sibly,
the Indian agent there, who is the son of Dr. Sibly
of Natchitoches. He informed me that he purpos-
ed shortly to attend the Petits Osages in their annual
journey for salt. He invited me to accompany
him, and as an inducement, offered to procure two
horses from the Indians for my own use. Learning
that the jplace where the salt is procured is that
which has occasioned the report of a salt mountain
existing in Upper Louisiana, I was very much in-
clined to accept his invitation ; but finding Mr. Hunt
unwilling to release me from my promise to attend
him, I declined it. I accompanied Mr. Sibly and
Dr. Murray in the evening, to see the dance of the
scalp. The ceremony consisted in carrying the
scalps elevated on sticks through the village, fol-
lowed by the warriors who had composed the war

43

party, dressed in all their ornaments, and painted
as for war.

On the 10th we again embarked on the river,
although it rained very hard. Our number was
now augmented to twenty-six by the addition of
Mr. Crooks and his party. We had not proceeded
more than two miles when our interpreter, Dorion,
beat his squaw severely ; and on Mr. Hunt enquir-
ing the cause, he told him that she had taken a
fancy to remain at the Osages in preference to pro-
ceeding with us, and because he had opposed it,
she had continued sulky ever since. We were
obliged to encamp early this day, as the rain be-
came excessive.

11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th.— We had a fair wind,
and employed our sail, wherefore I could not go
ashore without danger of being left behind. Dur-
ing these days the bread was examined, and being
found wholly unfit for use, it was thrown overboard.

15th. — We passed the scite of a village which
formerly belonged to the Kansas Indians. I had
an opportunity of going ashore, and found the
soil to have the appearance of the greatest ferti-
lity. On the sides of the hills I noticed abundance
of the hop plant, (Humulus lupulus.J

D 2

41

16th. — We began to notice more particularly the
great number of the bodies of drowned buffaloes,*
floating on the river; vast numbers of them were also
thrown ashore, and upon the rafts, on the points
of the Islands. These carcasses had attracted an
immense number of turkey buzzards, ( Vultur aura J
and as the preceding night had been rainy, mul-
titudes of them were sitting on the trees, with their
backs towards the sun, and their wings spread out
to dry, a common practice with these birds, after
rain.

17th. — Arrived at the wintering houses, near
the Naduet river, and joined the rest of the party.

18th. — I proceeded to examine the neighbour-
ing country, and soon discovered .that pigeons*
were in the woods. I returned, and exchanged my
rifle for a fowling piece, and in a few hours shot
271, when I desisted. I had an opportunity this
day of observing the manner in which they feed -9
it affords a most singular spectacle, and is also an
example of the rigid discipline maintained by gre-
garious animals. This species of pigeon associates
in prodigious flocks: one of these flocks, when on the
ground, will cover an area of several acres in ex-
tent, and are so close to each other that the ground
can scarcely be seen. This phalanx moves through

* Columbo migratorius.

45

the woods with considerable celerity, picking up as
it passes along, every thing that will serve for
food. It is evident that the foremost ranks must
be the most successful, and that nothing will re-
main for the hindermost. That all may have an
equal chance, the instant that any rank becomes
the last, they rise, and flying over the whole flock,
alight exactly ahead of the foremost. They suc-
ceed each other with so much rapidity, that there
is a continued stream of them in the air; and a
side view of them exhibits the appearance of the
segment of a large circle, moving through the
woods. 1 observed that they cease to look for
food a considerable time before they become the
last rank, but strictly adhere to their regulations,
and never rise until there are none behind them.

19th. — On the bluffs* under which the winter-

* As the term bluff' may not be understood, an explanation
will render the application more intelligible. The alluvion of
the great rivers west of the Alleghannies is considerably lower than
the surrounding country, and is of a breadth nearly in the ratio
of the magnitude of the river ; that of the Missouri is from two
to six or eight miles in breadth, and is for the most part from
150 to 300 feet below the general level of the country. The
ascent from this valley into the country is precipitous, and is
called " the Bluff ;" it may consist of rock or clay. Betwixt
these bluffs the river runs in a very crooked channel, and is per-
petually changing its bed, as the only permanent bounds are
the bluffs. It may here be remarked, that a view of the vast

46

ing house was placed, are a considerable number
of flat stones. On examining one, I found beneath
it several snakes, in a half torpid state, arising pro-
bably from the cold sUite of the weather, and
found on farther examination, that the number of
snakes under these stones was astonishing. I se-
lected this day eleven species, and killed a great
number.

#Oth. — It was this day arranged, by the desire of
Mr. Donald M'Kenzie, that I should travel in his
boat, and preparations were made for our depar-
ture the succeeding morning. I wTas employed in
continuing my researches, and had a narrow es-
cape from a rattle-snalce ; it darted at me from the
top of a small rock, at the base of which I was ga-
thering plants. The noise of its rattle just gave
me sufficient notice to withdraw my head.

21st. — We again embarked in four boats. Our
party amounted to nearly sixty persons : forty
were Canadian boatmen, such as are employed by
the North West Company, and are termed in Ca-
nada Engages or Yoyageurs. Our boats were all

channel bounded by these bluffs, connected with the idea that all
which it contained has been carried away by the river, would
induce us to believe that this globe has existed longer than some
people imagine.

47

furnished with masts and sails, and as the wind
blew pretty strong from the south-east, wre availed
ourselves of it during the most part of the day.

22nd, 23rd, and 24th. — The wind continuing fa-
vourable, we sailed almost the whole of these three
days, and made considerable progress.

25th. — Went ashore with the hunters, and col-
lected a new species of rattle-snake, and a bird of
the genus Recurvirostra. The hunters killed two
elks, but they were so lean that we left them for the
vultures : at all times their flesh is much inferior to
that of the deer.

26th. — The wind had changed to the north west,
and blew so strong, that we were obliged to stop
during the whole day. When I found this mea-
sure determined on, I resolved to avail myself of
the opportunity to quit the valley of the Missouri,
and examine the surrounding country. After
travelling about three miles, I ascended the
bluffs, and found that the face of the country,
soil, &c. were entirely changed. As far as the
eye could reach, not a single tree or shrub was vi-
sible. The whole of the stratum immediately be-
lowT the vegetable mould, is a vast bed of exceed-
ingly hard yellow clay. In the valleys, the land
iloods, during the rainy season, have worn channels

48

so deep, and with the sides so precipitous, that a
traveller is often under the necessity of proceeding
a mile or two along one of these ravines before he
can cross it. In the bottoms of several I observed
evident indications of coal.

27th. — The night had been very cold, and before
we had been long on the river, the sides of the
boats and the oars were covered with ice, although
we were not farther nortli than 40°. After break-
fast, I went out with the hunters, and found my
hopes of a change in the vegetation realized. The
bluffs forming the bounds of the river are no longer
in part rocks, but a continued chain of rounded
knobs of stiff clay ; under these is a fine bed of
bituminous coal, rendered visible wherever the
river has washed away the base. This day I col-
lected several new species of plants.

28th. — We breakfasted on one of the islands
formed by La Platte Riviere, the largest river that
falls into the Missouri. It empties itself into three
channels, except in the time of its annual flood,
when the intervening land is overflowed ; it is then
about a mile in breadth. We noticed this day the
skeleton or frame of a skin canoe, in which the
river had been crossed by Indians : we saw also
other indications of war parties having been re-
cently in the neighbourhood, and observed in the

49

night the reflection of immense fires, occasioned
by burning the prairies. At this late season, the
fires are not made by the hunters to facilitate their
hunting, but by war parties ; and more particu-
larly when returning unsuccessful, or after a de-
feat, to prevent their enemies from tracing their
steps. As the ash discontinues to grow on the
Missouri abov£ this place, it was thought expedi-
ent to lay in a stock of oars and poles ; and for
that purpose, we stopped in the forenoon, about
a league above the mouth of Papillon Creek, and
I availed myself of this opportunity to visit the
bluffs four or five miles distant from us, on the
north east side. On approaching them, I found an
extensive lake running along their base, across
which I waded, the water in no part reaching
higher than my breast. This lake had evidently
been in former times the course of the river : its
surface was much covered with aquatic plants,
amongst which were Nelumbium luteum and Hydro-
peltis purpurea; on the broad leaves of the former,
a great number of water snakes were basking, which
on my approach darted into the water. On gain-
ing the summit of the bluffs, I was amply repaid by
the grandeur of the scene that suddenly opened to
my view, and by the acquisition of a number of
new plants. On looking into the valley of the Mis-
souri from an elevation of about 250 feet, the view
was magnificent ; the blutfs can be seen for more

50

than thirty miles, stretching to the north-eastward
in a right line, their summits varied by an infinity
of undulations. The flat valley of the river, about
six or seven miles in breadth, is partly prairie, but
interspersed with clumps of the finest trees,
through the intervals of which could be seen the
majestic but muddy Missouri. The scene towards
the interior of the country was extremely singular:
it presents to the view a countless number of little
green hills, apparently sixty or eighty feet in per-
pendicular height, and so steep, that it was with
much difficulty I could ascend them ; some were
so acutely pointed, that two people would have
found it difficult to stand on the top at the same
time. I wandered among these mountains in
miniature until late in the afternoon, when I re-
crossed the lake, and arrived at the boats soon
after sunset.

29th.*— Being informed that the oars and poles
would not be finished before noon, Mr. M'Kenzie
obliged me by sending his boat to carry me across
the river. I found the bluffs to be of a nature simi-
lar to those on the north-east side. I met the boats
in the afternoon, and we encamped about fourteen
miles below the wintering house belonging to Mr.
Crooks, who proposed to me that we should walk
to it the following morning, along the bluffs ; as
that route was much shorter than by the course of
the river.

51

30th.— I set out with Mr. Crooks at sunrise, for
the wintering house, and travelled nearly a mile
on a low piece of ground, covered with long grass ;
at its termination we ascended a small elevation,
and entered on a plain of about eight miles in
length, and from two and a half to three miles in
breadth. As the old grass had been burned in the
autumn, it was now covered with the most beauti-
ful verdure, intermixed with flowers. It was also
adorned with clumps of trees, sufficient for orna-
ment, but too few to intercept the sight : in the in-
tervals we counted nine flocks of elk and deer
feeding, some of which we attempted to approach
near enough to fire at, but without success. On
arriving at the termination of the plain, our route
lay along a series of the most rugged clay bluffs :
some of them were in part washed away by the
river, and exhibited perpendicular faces at least a
hundred feet in height. At noon we arrived at the
wintering house, and dined on dried buffaloe. In
the evening the boats came up.

May 1st. — This day was employed in embarking
some articles necessary for the voyage, together
with Indian goods, and in the evening Mr. Crooks
informed me that he intended to set out the next
morning on foot, for the Ottoes, a nation of In-
dians on the Platte river, who owed him some bea-
ver. From the Ottoes he purposed travelling to

the Maha nation, about 200 miles above us on the
Missouri, where he should again meet the boats.
I immediately offered to accompany him, he seem-
ed much pleased, and we proceeded to cast bullets,
and make other arrangements necessary for our
journey.

2nd. — At day-break we were preparing to de-
part, as also were the rest of the party, when an
occurrence took place that delayed us until sun-
rise, and created a considerable degree of confu-
sion. Amongst our hunters were two brothers of
the name of Harrington, one of whom, Samuel
Harrington, had been hunting on the Missouri for
two years, and had joined the party in Autumn :
the other, William Harrington, had engaged at
St. Louis, in the following March, and accom-
panied us from thence ; the latter now avowed
that he had engaged at the command of his mo-
ther, for the purpose of bringing back his brother,
and they both declared their intention of abandon-
ing the party immediately. As it had already been
intimated to us at the Osage nation, that the No-
dowessie, or Sioux Indians, intended to oppose
our progress up the river, and as no great de-
pendance was placed on our Canadians in case of
an attack, the loss of two good riflemen was a
matter of regret to us all. Mr. Hunt, although a
gentleman of the mildest disposition, wras ex-

5$

tremely exasperated ; and when it was found that all
arguments and entreaties were unavailing, they were
left,, as it was then imagined, without a single bul-
let or a load of powder, 400 miles at least from any
white man's house, and 650 from the mouth of the
river. As soon as the final issue of this affair was
known, Mr. Crooks and myself set out for the Otto
village, attended by two of the Canadians, one
named Guardepee, the other La Liberte. Our
equipments were, a blanket, a rifle, eighty bullets,
a full powder horn, a knife, and tomahawk, for each.
Besides these, I had a large inflexible port-folio,
containing several quires of paper, for the purpose
of laying down specimens of plants ; we had also a
small camp-kettle, and a little jerked buffaloe meat.
In half an hour we left the valley of the Missouri,
and entered upon the vast plain. We took our
course S. S. E. which we held for some hours,
and travelled at a great rate, hoping to reach the
Platte that night, although estimated at forty-five
miles from the place of our departure. A little
before noon we saw four large animals at a great
distance, which we supposed to be elk, but on
crossing their footsteps some time afterwards, we
found to our great satisfaction that they were buffaloe.
In the afternoon we crossed two branches of Pa-
pillon Creek, and an hour before sun-set arrived
at the Corne du Cerf River, a deep clear stream,
about eighty yards in breadth, it falls into the

r>h

Platte, about twenty miles below. As our Cana-
dians could not swim, it was necessary to construct
a raft, and we concluded to remain here for the
night. This arrangement was very agreeable to
me, as I was much exhausted, which Mr. Crooks
considered was, in a great measure, owing to my
having drank water too copiously during the day.
Although we had not eaten anything from the time
of our departure, I was unable to eat at supper*
and lay down immediately.

3rd. — We arose at day break. I found my-
self completely refreshed. Our raft being rea-
dy at sun-rise, we crossed the river, and in two
hours arrived at the Platte, exactly opposite the
Otto village. The river is here about 800 yards
in breadth, but appears to be shallow, as its name
indicates. The southern bank is wholly divested
of timber, and as the village is situated on a de-
clivity near the river, we could see the lodges very
distinctly, but there was no appearance of Indians.
We discharged our rifles, but the signal was not an-
swered from the village ; in about five minutes we
heard the report of a gun down the river, and im-
mediately proceeded towards the place. At the
distance of half a mile, we arrived opposite an
island, on the point of which a white man was
standing, who informed us that we could cross
over to him by wading ; we did not stop to take
off our clothes, but went over immediately, the

55

water reaching to our arm-pits. This man proved
to be an American, of the name of Rogers, and
was employed as an interpreter by a Frenchman
from St. Louis, who was also on the island
with a few goods. They informed us that they
had been concealed for some days on the island,
having discovered a war party hovering round, be-
longing, as they supposed, to the Loup, or Wolf
nation, who had come in order to surprise the
Ottoes. They had nothing to give us as food, ex-
cepting some beaver flesh, which Rogers obtained
by trapping on Corne du Cerf, or Elk Horn river ;
as it was stale, and tasted fishy, I did not much relish
it, but there was no alternative but to eat it or starve.
We remained all day concealed on the island, and
on the morning of the 4th, before daylight, Rogers
set out to look at his traps, on Elk Horn river,
distant to the Eastward not more than five miles.
I accompanied him, and on crossing the channel
of the Platte, found that in the same place where
the day before it reached to our arm-pits, it did
not now reach to our waists, although the river
had not fallen; such changes in the bottom of
this river, Rogers told me were very frequent, a$
it is composed of a moving gravel, in which our
feet sunk to a considerable depth. We arrived at
the Elk Horn river about sun-rise, but found no
beaver in the traps. After our return to the island,
I expressed a wish to visit the Otto village, which

r>6

was in sight ; and Rogers, who had a canoe con-
cealed in the willows that surrounded the island,
landed me on the other side of the river. I found
the village to consist of about fifty-four lodges, of
a circular form, and about forty feet in diameter,
with a projecting part at the entrance, of ten or
twelve feet in length, in the form of a porch. At
almost every lodge, the door or entrance was closed
after the manner which is customary with Indians
when they go on hunting parties and take their
squaws and children with them. It consists in
putting a few sticks across, in a particular man-
ner, which they so exactly note and remem-
ber, as to be able to discover the least change in
their position. Although anxious to examine the
internal structure of the lodges, I did not violate
the injunction conveyed by this slight obstruction,
and after searching some time found a few that
were left entirely open. On entering one, I found
the length of the porch to be an inclined plane to
the level of the floor, about two and a half or three
feet below the surface of the ground ; round the
area of the lodge are placed from fifteen to eighteen
posts, forked at the top, and about seven feet high
from the floor. In the centre, a circular space of
about eight feet in diameter is dug, to the depth
of two feet ; four strong posts are placed in the
form of a square, about twelve feet asunder, and
at equal distances from this space \ these posts are

57

about twenty feet high, and cross pieces are laid on
the tops. The rafters are laid from the forked tops
of the outside posts over these cross pieces, and
reach nearly to the centre, where a small hole is
left for the smoke to escape : across the rafters
small pieces of timber are laid ; over these, sticks
and a covering of sods, and lastly earth. The fire
is made in the middle of the central space, round
the edges of which they sit, and the beds are fixed
betwixt the outer posts. The door is placed at the
immediate entrance into the lodge ; it is made of
a bufFaloe skin, stretched in a frame of wood, and
is suspended from the top. On entering, it swings
forward, and when let go, it falls to its former posi-
tion. On my return to the island, Mr. Crooks in-
formed me that he had resolved to send Rogers to
find the Ottoes, who were hunting about twenty miles
from us, in order to collect his debts, or to procure
horses for us, to facilitate our journey to the Maha
nation.

5th. — In the morning early, Rogers set out on
his expedition, and nothing material occurred until
his return on the 6th, without his having obtained
any beaver or horses, excepting one belonging to
Mr. Crooks. This night I procured from Rogers
what information I couid relative to the Otto na-
tion, and was informed that the Missouris are in-
corporated with them, from whom they are de-

E

58

scended, and whose language they speak. They
call themselves Wad-doke-tah-tah, and can muster
130 or 140 warriors. They were now at war with
the Loups, or Wolf Indians, the Osages, and the
Sioux. He said they furnish a considerable quan-
tity of bear, deer, and beaver skins, and are very
wrell disposed towards their traders, who may safely
credit them. They do not claim the property of
the land on which they live, nor any other tract. A
very considerable part of the surrounding country
formerly belonged to the Missouris, who were once
the most powerful nation on the Missouri river,
but have been reduced by war and the small pox
to be dependent on the Ottoes, by w horn they are
treated as inferiors. Rogers had with him a squaw
of the Maha nation, with her child, whom he wash-
ed to send with us to her father. To this Mr.
Crooks consented, and early on the morning of the
7th we set out, putting the squaw and her child on
the horse. Having crossed over from the island,
we steered a due North course, and came to the
Elk Horn river, after travelling about ten miles.
Mr. Crooks immediately stripped, to examine if
the river was fordable, and found that, excepting
about twenty yards in the middle, we might wade
it. I offered to carry the child, but the squaw re-
fused, and after stripping herself, she gave me her
clothes, put the child on her neck, and swam over,
the little creature sticking to her hair. After as-

59

sisting our Canadians across, we continued along
the bank, in the expectation of arriving at a creek,
distant about five miles, which comes in a direction
from the North. We had observed, that as we in-
creased our distance from the island, the reluctance
of the squaw to proceed also increased, and soon
after we had crossed the river, she began to cry,
and declared she would go no farther. Mr. Crooks,
who understood the language, remonstrated with
her ; but finding it in vain, he ordered Guardepee
to take her back, and we encamped to wait his re-
turn.

8th. — About two o'clock in the morning Guar-
depee returned with the horse, and at day-light we
set out. In about an hour we came to the creek,
and continued along its banks, and found ourselves
in a short time on a most beautiful prairie, along
which the creek flowed, without having a single
tree on its border, or even a shrub, excepting a few
widely scattered plum bushes. We shot this day
two prairie hens, (Tetrao umbellusj on which we
supped, having dined on some jerked buffalo,
brought by Rogers from the Ottoes. We slept on
the border of the creek, but not so comfortably as
usual, as the dew was so copious, that before
morning our blankets were wet through.

9th. — We continued to pursue our course along

e2

60

the creek, but with great trouble, as our mockas-
sons, being of untanned skins, became so soft as to
render it difficult to keep them on our feet. We
shot a prairie hen, and prepared to breakfast, hav-
ing first relieved the horse from the baggage, and
turned him out to graze. Whilst we were collect-
ing some dry stalks of plants to boil our kettle, a
herd of elk, nineteen in number, appeared march-
ing towards the creek, and Guardepee immediately
ran to put himself in such a position that he might
fire at them, when the horse took fright, broke his
tie, and gallopped off. Guardepee fired, but only
wrounded one so slightly that it ran off with the rest,
and escaped. The horse took the direct route back
towards the Ottoes, and was followed by Mr.
Crooks and Guardepee; but in vain : they gave up
the chase, finding it impossible to recover him.
After we had breakfasted, we threw the saddle and
every thing belonging to the horse into the creek ;
each man took his share of the baggage, and we
again set out, and travelled without stopping until
evening, when we arrived at the head of the creek,
and came to what is called a dividing ridge.* We
passed over it, and came to the head of a creek,
running in a N.E. direction. This we supposed
to be Black Bird Creek, which falls into the Mis-

* A term given to any elevation that separates the head waters
of one creek from those of another.

61

*ouri, near the monument of a famous chief of the
Mahas, named Black Bird. At the distance of
about two miles, we saw a small clump of trees on
the border of the creek, and determined to remain
there during the night, hoping to find fuel to boil
a small portion of jerked buffalo, being all we had
left. Whilst the supper was preparing, I walked
back to an eminence, to collect some interesting
plants, having noticed them in passing. I had not
been long employed in that way, when I saw a dis-
tant flash of lightning in the South, and soon after
others in quick succession. Other appearances
indicated the approach of a violent storm, and I
hastened back to recommend precautions for the
security of our arms and ammunition. Having
boiled our meat, which amounted to a few morsels
each, we secured our powder horns and some tow
in' our camp kettle, which we inverted, and dis-
charged our rifles. Excepting the sound of dis-
tant thunder, which was continual, an awful silence
prevailed, and the cloud which had already spread
over one half of the visible horizon, was fast shut-
ting out the little remains of day-light. As the
trees afforded us no fuel, and in a few minutes
would become no shelter, but might endanger our
safety, I recommended that we should go to the
open prairie, which we did, and lay down in our
blankets ; I put my plants under me. For se-
veral hours the thunder, lightning, and rain were

62

incessant, and such rain as I have seldom witnessed.
In half an hour after the storm commenced, we
had nothing more to fear from it, excepting the
cold occasioned by the torrents that fell on us.
At the approach of morning the rain ceased ; we
saw a few stars, and with joy noticed the first ap-
pearances of day. We rose, and wrung the water
out of our blankets, and finding ourselves very
much benumbed, we walked about to restore the
circulation ; when it was sufficiently light, we put
our rifles in order, which was attended with con-
siderable difficulty, as our hands were almost with-
out sensation. Having arranged our arms we set out,
but were extremely uncomfortable, as our clothes,
being made of dressed skins, stuck so close to our
bodies as to make our march very unpleasant. We
proceeded at a brisk pace to warm ourselves, and
in about two hours came to a small ridge, which we
ascended, and when near the top, Guardepee pre-
ceded us, to examine if any game was in sight.
He gave the signal for us to remain quiet, and
soon afterwards fired at two buffaloe cows, with their
calves ; one of the cows he wounded, and they
ran off with so much speed, that the calves could
not keep up with them : perceiving this, I imme-
diately pursued the calve, one of which I killed.
The rest of the party pursued the cows for a short
distance, but finding the inutility of it, they soon
returned ; and notwithstanding my remonstrances,

63

Guardepee killed the other calf. As we had eaten
but little the day before, we were very glad of
this supply, and taking what we thought proper,
proceeded on our journey. We soon began to per-
ceive that the face of the country was changing
in its appearance. From the Elk Horn river, our
course had hitherto been over a most beautiful
prairie, with scarcely a tree or shrub, but covered
with grass and flowers ; we now began to observe
a more broken country to the eastward, and some
scattered bushes in the vallies. From an eminence,
we soon after perceived a hill, having a heap of
stones on the summit ; Mr. Crooks assured me that
this was the monument of Blackbird,* the famous

* This chief, called by the French, Oiseau Noir, ruled over
the Mahas with a sway the most despotic : he had managed in
such a manner as to inspire them with the belief that he was
possessed of supernatural powers ; in council no chief durst op-
pose him — in war it was death to disobey. It is related of him
at St. Louis, that a trader from that town arrived at the Mahas
with an assortment of Indian goods ; he applied to Blackbird
for liberty to trade, who ordered that he should first bring- all
his goods into his lodge, and the order was obeyed ; Blackbird
commanded that all the packages should be opened in his pre-
sence, and from them he selected what goods he thought proper,
amounting to nearly the fourth part of the whole ; he caused
them to be placed in a part of the lodge distinct from the rest,
and addressed the trader to this effect — " Now, my son, the
" goods which I have chosen are mine, and those in your
" possession are your own. Don't cry, my son, my people
-*' shall trade with you for your goods at your own price."

64

Maha chief, and that it was one of the bluffs of
the Missouri ; we judged it was about fifteen miles
N. E. of us. Satisfied that we were now near the
boats, and having arrived at some small timber,
where we could procure fuel, we dined on our
veal ; and although without bread or salt, it was
to us a luxury, as we had long been unaccustomed
to those articles. V* e halted about three hours
before sunset, at about five miles from the monu-
ment of Blackbird, to which place Mr. Crooks
dispatched Guardepee to look for a letter, as Mr.

He then spoke to his herald, who ascended to the top of the
lodge, and commanded in the name of the chief, that the Mahas
should bring- all their beaver, bear, otter, muskrat, and other
skins to his lodge, and not on any account to dispute the terms
of exchange with the trader, who declared on his return to St.
Louis, that it was the most profitable voyage he had ever made.
Mr. Tellier, a gentleman of respectability who resided near St.
Louis, and who had been formerly Indian agent there, informed
me that Blackbird obtained this influence over his nation by the
means of arsenic, a quantity of that article having been sold to
him by a trader, who instructed him in the use of it. If after-
wards, any of his nation dared to oppose him in his arbitary mea-
sures, he prophesied their death within a certain period, and
took good care that his predictions should be verified. He died
about the time that T ouisiana was added to the United States ;
having previously made choice of a cave for his sepulchre, on
the top of a hill near the Missouri, about eighteen miles be-
low the Maha village ; by his order his body was placed on the
back of his favourite horse, which was driven into the cave, the
mouth closed up with stones, and a large heap was afterwards
raised on the summit of the hill.

65

Hunt had promised to leave one there on passing
the place. At night he returned, but without a
letter, and we concluded that the boats had not
yet arrived.

11th. — We set off early, and soon fell in with
the trace from the Maha village to the monument;
along this we travelled, and about ten o'clock
arrived at the town, where we met one of the Ca-
nadians belonging to the boats. He informed us
that they arrived the day before, and were sta-
tioned about four miles from the village. As we
were in want of food, we did not stop, but pro-
ceeded to the boats, where we found a considera-
ble number of Indians assembled to trade. They
gave jerked buffaloe meat, tallow, corn, and mar-
row ; and in return they received tobacco in ca-
rottes, vermillion, blue beads, &c. There, also,
we found Mr. James Aird, an old and respectable
trader, whom I had become acquainted with at
St, Louis. He informed me that he should go to
the United States in a few days, I therefore availed
myself of this opportunity to forward letters, and
was employed in writing until the 12th at noon.
Immediately after, I set out on an excursion to the
bluffs, and in my way passed through the village,
where the great number of children playing about
the lodges, entirely naked immediately drew my
attention, I soon attracted their notice also, and

66

they began to collect around me ; some of the
boldest ventured to touch my hand, after which
they ran back a few paces, but soon again resumed
their courage. When about fifty or sixty had col-
lected, I came to where three young squaws were
repairing one of the stages erected for the purpose
of exposing the buffaloe skins to dry, whilst they
are in preparation. The squaws, seeing the chil-
dren run after me, spoke to them, in a command-
ing tone, when they instantly stopped, and not
one followed me afterwards. I doubt much if such
a crowd of children, in any European city, would
have obeyed with such promptness, had such a
phenomenon appeared amongst them, as they must
have considered me. On arriving at the summit
of the bluffs, I had a fine view of the town below.
It had a singular appearance ; the frame work of
the lodges consists of ten or twelve long poles,
placed in the periphery of a circle of about sixteen
feet in diameter, and are inclined towards each
other, so as to cross at a little more than half their
length from the bottom ; and the tops diverging
with the same angle, exhibit the appearance of one
cone inverted on the apex of another. The lower
cone is covered with dressed buffaloe skins, sewed
together, and fancifully painted ; some with an
undulating red or yellow band of ten or twelve
inches in breadth, surrounding the lodge at half
its height ; on others, rude figures of horses, buf-

67

faloe or deer were painted ; others again with at-
tempts at the human face, in a circle, as the moon
is sometimes painted ; these were not less than
four feet in diameter. I judged there were not
fewer than eighty lodges. I did not remain long on
the summit of the bluffs, as I soon perceived, from
the heaps of earth, some of these recent, that it
was the burial ground, and I knew the veneration
they have for the graves of their ancestors. I pro-
ceeded along the bluffs, and was very successful in
my researches, but had not been long employed,
when I saw an old Indian galloping towards me ;
he came up and shook hands with me, and point-
ing to the plants I had collected, said, " Bon
pour manger?" to which I replied, " Ne pas bon ;"
he then said, " Bon pour medicine ?" I replied
" Oui." He again shook hands, and rode away,
leaving me somewhat surprised at being addressed in
French by an Indian. On my return through the
village, I was stopped by a group of squaws, who
invited me very kindly into their lodges, calling
me Wakendaga, or as it is pronounced, We-ken-
da-ga, (Physician) I declined to accept their invi-
tation, shewing them that the sun was near setting,
and that it would be night before I could reach
the boats ; they then invited me to stay all night,
this also I declined, but suffered them to examine
my plants, for all which I found they had names.
On my way to the boats, I met a number of In-

6$

dians returning to the village, all of whom shook
hands with me. Two of them informed me that
they had seen me at St. Louis, and at the same
time gave me satisfactory proofs of it.* I did not
reach the boats until it was dark.

13th. — In the forenoon of this day, Mr. Hunt was
waited upon by two chiefs, who were contending
for the sanction of the government of the United
States, to determine their claim to kingly power.
Mr. Hunt declined interfering, not being vested
with the powers to act. The names of these two
chiefs were the Big Elk and the White Cow, the
former of whom ultimately succeeded, and has since
signalized himself by a fine specimen of Indian elo-

* The Indians are remarkable for strength of memory in this
particular. They will remember a man whom they have only tran-
siently seen, for a great number of years, and perhaps never dur-
ing- their lives forget him. I had no recollection of these In-
dians, but they pointed down the river to St. Louis, afterwards
they took up the corner of their buffalo robe, held it before their
faces, and turned it over as a man does a newspaper in reading
it. This action will be explained by relating that I frequented
the printing-office of Mr. Joseph Charless, when at St. Louis,
to read the papers from the United States, when it often happen-
ed that the Indians at that place on business came into the office
and sat down. Mr. Charless, out of pleasantry, would hand to
each a newspaper, and out of respect for the custom of the whites,
they examined it with as much attention as if they could read,
turning it over at the same time that they saw me turn that with
which I was engaged.

69

quence, at the funeral of a Sioux chief, in tlje
Missouri territory.* The Maha's seem very friend-
ly to the whites, and cultivate corn, beans, melons,
squashes, and a small species of tobacco, (Nicotiana
rustica.J In 1802 they were visited by the small-
pox, which made dreadful havoc, and destroyed at
least two thirds of the whole nation. At present
they muster nearly two hundred warriors, and from
the great number of children, I judge that they are
again increasing. In stature they are much in-
ferior to the Osages, although I noticed several,
whom I thought would reach to six feet. Their
hunting ground is from their village to I/Eau qui
Court, and along that river.

14th. — This day three Sioux Indians arrived, of
the Yankton Ahna tribe, who reported that several
nations of the Sioux were assembling higher up the
river, with an intention to oppose our progress.
This news was concealed as much as possible from
the Voyageurs, and we prepared for our departure
on the following morning.

15th. — We embarked early and passed Floyd's
Bluffs, so named from a person of the name of Floyd,
(one of Messrs. Lewis and Clark's party) having been
buried there. In the course of this day, I was in-

m -■ ' -...I. , , . , — -, ,— -

* See Appendix, No. II,

70

formed by Mr. M'Kenzie, that in the night of the
7th instant, during our journey to the Ottoes,
eleven Sioux Indians, who had given or devoted
their clothes to the medicine * ran into the camp
with their tomahawks in their hands, and were in-
stantly surrounded and taken prisoners. The
leader, finding the party on their guard, and much
stronger probably than he expected, immediately
cried out to his followers in their language, " My
children, do not hurt the white people." As the
party were fully apprized of the murderous inten-
tions of these miscreants, the general voice was
for putting them to death, but Mr. Hunt would
not consent to it, and ordered that they should be
conveyed over the river in one of the boats, at the
same time informing them, that if they were again
caught by the party, every man should be sacri-
ficed. From a coincidence of time and circum-
stances, it appeared almost certain that it was this
party that had crossed the Missouri, near the
mouth of the river Platte, in the canoe of which
we saw the skeleton on the 28th of April ; and that

* When a party on a war excursion are entirely foiled in their
object, a dread of the scoffs which may be expected from their
tribe, renders them furious ; and it often happens in such cases,
that they throw away their clothes, or devote them to the Great
Spirit, with an intention to do some desperate act. Any white
man, or any party of whites whom they meet, and can overcome;,
is almost certain to be sacrificed in this case.

71

it was also this party that was discovered by Rogers
hovering about the Otto village, as the Sioux are
at war with the Ottoes ; it therefore appeared that
Mr. Crooks and myself had run more risk than we
were sensible of at the time.

16th, 17th, and 18th. — We had a fair wind, and
made considerable progress up the river ; few
opportunities were therefore afforded for walking.
I regretted this circumstance, as the bluffs had a
very interesting appearance. During a short ex-
cursion, I was enabled to ascertain that the lower
part of the bluffs were impregnated with sulphur,
mixed with sulphate of iron and selenite crystals.

19th. — About nine o'clock we observed three
buffaloe cows and a calf swimming across the river.
Two of them and the calf were killed, but we found
them to be so poor that we only preserved the calf.

20th. — We were stopped all day by a strong head
wind. I availed myself of this circumstance, and
was very successful in my researches. We found
that the river was rising rapidly ; it rose during
this day more than three feet : we therefore con-
cluded that this was the commencement of the
annual flood of the Missouri, occasioned by the
melting of the snow on the rocky mountains.

If

olst. — The river continued to rise, and the cur-
rent to increase in rapidity: the navigation was-
therefore rendered very difficult. I walked the
greatest part of the day, chiefly on the bluffs, and
found the summits for the most part covered with
gravel, containing tumblers of feltspar, granite, and
some porphyry.

22nd. — In the morning our hunters killed three
buffaloes and two elks on an island, and as we were
now arriving at the country of our enemies, the
Sioux ; it was determined that they should in a great
measure confine themselves to the islands, in their
search for game. We dined at the commencement
of a beautiful prairie ; afterwards I went to the
bluffs, and proceeded along them till near evening.
On regaining the bank of the river, I walked down
to meet the boats, but did not find them until a
considerable time after it was dark, as they had
stopped early in the afternoon, having met with a
canoe, in which were two hunters of the names of
Jones and Carson, who had been two years near
the head of the Missouri. These men agreed to
join the party, and were considered as a valuable
acquisition, any accession of strength being now
desirable. This day, for the first time, I was
much annoyed by the abundance of the prickly
pear. Against the thorns of this plant I found that

73

mockasons are but a slight defence. I observed
two species, Cactus opuntia and Mamillaris.

23rd. — When on the bluffs yesterday, I observed
in the river an extensive bend, and determined to
travel across the neck. I therefore did not embark
with the boats, but filled my shot pouch with
parched corn, and set out, but not without being
reminded by Mr. Hunt that we were now in an
enemy's country. In about two hours I had en-
tirely passed the range of hills forming the boun-
dary of the Missouri ; and as I had before experi-
enced, I found the soil and face of the conn try to
improve very much as we proceed from the river.
The hills here are only gentle swellings, and, toge-
ther with the intervening vallies, were covered with
the most beautiful verdure. At a small distance
from my route I noticed a space, of several acres
in extent, of a more vivid green than the surround-
ing prairie, and on my nearer approach it had the
appearance of a rabbit burrow. From the previous
descriptions given by the hunters, I immediately
conceived it to be, what it proved, a colony of the
prairie dog.# The little animals had taken the
alarm before I reached their settlement, and were
sitting singly on the small hillocks of earth at the

* A species of sciurus, or squirrel, not described in theSyst,
Natura.

7*

mouth of their holes. They were very clamourous^
uttering a cry which has some resemblance to a
shrill barking. I shot at several, but at the instant of
the flash, they darted with surprising quickness into
their holes, before the shot could reach them. I soon
found the impossibility of procuring one with shot
only, as unless they are instantaneously killed, they
are certain to get into their holes, from the edges of
which they never wander if a man is in sight. I
continued to travel through this charming country
till near the middle of the afternoon, when I again
came to the bluffs of the Missouri, where, amongst
a number of new plants, I found a fine species of
Kibes, or currant. As it was now time to look for
the boats, I went to the river, and proceeded down
the bank, in the expectation of meeting them. I
had probably travelled about two miles, when sud-
denly I felt a hand laid upon my shoulder, and
turning round, saw a naked Indian with a bow bent
in his hand, and the arrow pointed towards me.
As I had no expectation of meeting any Indians
excepting the Sioux, and as with them the idea of
danger was associated, I took my gun from my
shoulder, and by a kind of spontaneous movement
put my hand towards the lock, when I perceived the
Indian drew his bow still farther. I now found my-
self completely in his power; but recollecting that if
an enemy, he would have shot me before I saw him,
I held out my hand, which he took, and afterwards

75

laid his hand on my breast, and in the Osage lan-
guage said, w Moi-he ton-ga de-ah," literally in
English, " Big Knife you ?"* which I luckily un-
derstood, and answered, " Hoya," (yes) and laying
my hand on his breast, said, " No-do-wessie de-ah"
(Sioux you.) He replied, " Honkoska ponca we
ah?' (no, poncar me.) He then pointed up the
river, and I saw two other Indians running towards
us, and not more than fifty yards distant. They
soon came up, and all the three laid hold of me,
pointing over the bluffs, and making signs that I
should go with them. I resisted, and pushed off
their hands. As the river had overflowed where
we stood, I pointed to a sand-hill a small distance
from us, to which we went and sat down. I amus-
ed them with my pocket compass for some time,
when they again seized me, and I still resisted, and
took out a small microscope. This amused them
for some time longer, when on a sudden one of
them leaped up and gave the war whoop. I laid
hold of my gun, with an intention to defend my-
self, but was instantly relieved from apprehension
by his pointing down the river, and I perceived
the mast of one of the boats appear over the wal-
lows. The Indians seemed very much inclined to
run away, but I invited them to accompany me to

* The Americans are called " the Big Knives" by the Indians-
of the Missouri.

F 2

76

the boats, and shewed them by signs that I would
give them something to drink, which they com-
plied with, but soon after disappeared. We tra-
velled very late this evening, and encamped above
the mouth of a small creek. It appeared that the
three Indians went to inform their nation, as in the
morning a number of them came to our camp, and
also a white man, with a letter to Mr. Hunt from
Mr. Lisa, one of the Missouri Fur Company, for
whom he was agent. Mr. Lisa had arrived at the
Mahas some days after we left, and had dispatched
this man by land. It appeared he had been ap-
prized of the hostile intentions of the Sioux, and
the purport of the letter was to prevail on Mr.
Hunt to wait for him, that they might, for mutual
safety, travel together on that part of the river
which those blood thirsty savages frequent. It was
judged expedient to trade with the Indians for
some jerked buffalo meat, and more than 1000 lbs.
was obtained for as much tobacco as cost two dol-
lars. About noon we set out, and at the distance
of a league passed the mouth of the river called
L'Eau qui Court, or Rapid River.

25th. — It was discovered early this morning,
that two men who had engaged at the Mahas, and
had received equipments to a considerable value,
had deserted in the night. It was known that
one of them could not swim, and we had passed a.

77

large creek about a league below, therefore the
party went in pursuit, but without success.

26th. — Whilst at breakfast in a beautiful part of
the river, we observed two canoes descending on
the opposite side. In one, by the help of our glasses,
we ascertained there were two white men, and in
the other only one. A gun was discharged, when
they discovered us, and crossed over. We found
them to be three men belonging to Kentucky,
whose names wrere Robinson, Hauberk, and Ree-
soner. They had been several years hunting on
and beyond the Rocky Mountains, until they i?na-
gined they were tired of the hunting life ; and hav-
ing families and good plantations in Kentucky,
were returning to them ; but on seeing us, families,
plantations, and all vanished ; they agreed to join
us, and turned their canoes adrift. We were glad
of this addition to our number, as the Poncars had
confirmed all that we had heard respecting the hos-
tile disposition of the Nodowessies, or Sioux, to-
wards us, with the additional information, that five
mations or tribes had already assembled, with a
determination to cut us off. Robinson was sixty-
six years of age, and was one of the first settlers in
Kentucky. He had been in several engagements
with the Indians there, who really made it to the
first settlers, what its name imports, " The Bloody
Ground." In one of these engagements he had

78

been scalped, and was obliged to wear a handker-
chief on his head to protect the part. As the wind
was fair, we this day made considerable progress,
and had many fine views of the bluffs, along which,
from the L'Eau qui Court, we had observed excel-
lent roads, made by the buffaloes. These roads I
had frequent opportunities of examining, and am
of opinion that no engineer could have laid them
out more judiciously.

27th. — The weather continued fine, as it had
been for the last fortnight, and was delightful. For
some days past it had been very warm, and the car-
casses of drowned buffaloes on the islands and shores
of the river became extremely offensive. We had
a fine breeze from the S.E. and made all the sail
the extreme cowardice of our Canadians would
permit us, in order to reach Little Cedar Island,*
as it was intended that we should stop there to pro-
cure new masts, some of our old ones being defec-
tive. Late in the evening we accomplished our
purpose, to the joy of our voyageurs, who had fre-
quently in the course of the day, when the boats
heeled, cried out in agony, " O man Dieu! abattez
le voile" As we had now in our party five men
who had traversed the Rocky Mountains in various
directions, the best possible route in which to cross

* 1075 «riles from the mouth of the Missouri.

them became a subject of anxious enquiry. They
all agreed that the route followed by Lewis and
Clark was very far from being the best, and that to
the southward, where the head waters of the Platte
and Roche Jaune rivers rise, they had discovered
a route far less difficult. This information induced
Mr. Hunt to change his plan, which had originally
been to ascend the Missouri to the Roche Jaune
river, 1880 miles from the mouth, and at that place
he purposed to commence his journey by land. It
was now concluded that it would be more advise-
able to abandon the Missouri at the Aricara Town,
450 miles lower down the river.

28th. — We arose at day-break, and the men soon
found trees suitable for masts. Whilst they were
preparing, I employed myself in examining this
delightful spot. The island is about three quarters
of a mile in length, and 500 yards in width. The
middle part is covered with the finest cedar, round
which is a border from 60 to 80 yards in width, in
which were innumerable clumps of rose and cur-
rant bushes, mixed with grape vines, all in flower,
and all extremely fragrant. The currant is a new
and elegant species, and is described by Pursh* as

* This man has been suffered to examine the collection of
specimens which I sent to Liverpool, and to describe almost the
whole, thereby depriving me both of the credit and profit of
what was justly due to me.

80

Ribes aureim. Betwixt the clumps and amongst
the cedars the buffaloes, elks, and antelopes had
made paths, which were covered with grass and
flowers. I have never seen a place, however em-
bellished by art, equal to this in beauty. In a few
hours the masts were completed, and we proceeded
on our voyage with a fine breeze in our favour.
Since our departure from L'Eau qui Court, I had
noticed that the bluffs had gradually continued to
change in appearance. The quantity of alluvion
on the border of the river had decreased as we pro-
ceeded, and had now entirely vanished. The bluffs
continue in a regular declivity from their summits
to the edge of the river, and the narrowness of the
valley indicates a country formed of such hard
materials as to oppose considerable resistance to
the abrasion of the river. On these bluffs, and at
about half the distance from the summit to the
river, I began to notice a number of places of a
deep brown colour, apparently divested of vegeta-
tion. They occurred on both sides of the river,
with an exact correspondence in altitude and
breadth, and exhibited the appearance of two inter-
rupted lines running as far as the bluffs could be
seen. As we were now in an enemy's country, it
was with reluctance Mr. Hunt suffered me to land
a little before dinner, when I proceeded to examine
one of these spots. I found it almost entirely co-
vered with iron ore, of that species called by Kii>

81

wan compact iron stone ; in Waller Syst. % p. 144,
Hcematitis solidus. I found its specific gravity to be
3.482. The oxidation of the ore had so changed
the earth, that it resembled Spanish brown, and
nothing grew on it but a few scattered shrubs of a
species of Artemisia> apparently a non-descript. I
hastened to the boats, and we kept our sails up the
rest of the day, the bodies of ore becoming longer
and more frequent as we proceeded. We travelled
eighteen miles, and encamped one hour after sunset.

29th. — Some arrangements being necessary, the
boats did not set out so early as usual, and day-
light opened to our view one of the most interest-
ing prospects I have ever seen. We had encamped
at the commencement of a stretch of the river,
about fifteen miles in length, as we judged, and
nearly in a right line. The bluflfe on both sides
formed, as before, a gentle slope to the river, and
not a single tree was visible. The body of iron ore
had now become continuous on both sides of the
river, and exhibited the appearance of two dark
brown stripes, about 100 yards in breadth and fif-
teen miles long. The exact conformity of the two
lines, and the contrast of colour produced by the
vivid green which bounded them, formed a coup
d'oeil which I have never seen paralelled. I la-
mented much that the wind was fair, but availed
myself of the short delay, and hastened up the bluff

S2

to the vein of ore, where, although the soil was so
strongly impregnated with iron as to resemble rust,
I observed a number of large white flowers on the
ground, belonging to a new species of Oenothera,
having neither stem or scape, the flower sitting im-
mediately on the root. On a signal being given
from the boats, I was obliged to return, and had no
farther opportunity to examine this enormous body
of ore, without doubt sufficient to supply the whole
of North America with iron for thousands of years;
and when we combine in the same view the abun-
dance of coal on the Missouri, it warrants a pre-
sumption that in some future age it will become an
object of vast national importance.

30th. — We set out this morning with a favoura-
ble wind, which continued during the whole of
the day ; and the course of the river being less
crooked than usual, we made thirty miles, and
slept on an island.

31st. — Before breakfast this morning we dis-
covered two Indians on a bluff on the north east side
of the river, we stopped opposite to them to break-
fast, during which they frequently harangued us
in a loud tone of voice. After we had breakfasted,
Mr. Hunt went over the river to speak to them,
and took with him Dorion, the interpreter. We
noticed, that when he landed, one of the Indians

83

went away, and for a short time disappeared from
our sight, but immediately reappeared on horse-
back, and went at full speed over the bluffs. Mr.
Hunt informed us on his return, that these Indians
belonged to the Sioux nations \ that three tribes
were encamped about a league from us, and had
280 lodges. They were the Yangtons Ahnali, the
Tetons Bois Brule, and the Tetons Min-na-kine-
azzo. The Indian informed Mr. Hunt that they
had been waiting for us eleven days, with a de-
cided intention of opposing our progress, as they
would suffer no one to trade with the Ricaras,
Mandans, and Minaterees, being at war with those
nations. It is usual to reckon two warriors to each
lodge, we therefore found that we had to oppose
near six hundred savages, with the character of
whom we were well acquainted;* and it had also

* In the statistical account of the Missouri, by Lewis, read
before Congress in February, 1806, the character of these In-
dians is thus described : — " These are the vilest miscreants of
the savage race, and must ever remain the pirates of the Missouri,
until sach measures are pursued by our government as will make
them feel a dependence on its will for their supply of merchan-
dize. Unless these people are reduced to order by coercive
measures, I am ready to pronounce that the citizens of the Unit-
ed States can never enjoy but partially the advantages which the
Missouri presents. Relying on a regular supply of merchandize
through the channel of the river St. Peter's, they view with con-
tempt the merchants of the Missouri, whom they never fail to
plunder when in their power. Persuasion or advice with them

84

been stated by the Indian that they were in daily
expectation of being joined by two other tribes,
Tetons Okandandas and Tetons Sahone. We pro-
ceeded up the river, and passed along an island,
which, for about half an hour, intercepted our
view of the north east side of the river. On
reaching the upper point we had a view of the
bluffs, and saw the Indians pouring down in great
numbers, some on horseback, and others on foot.
They soon took possession of a point a little above
us, and ranged themselves along the bank of the
river. By the help of our glasses, we could per-
ceive that they were ail armed and painted for war.
Their arms consisted chiefly of bows and arrows,
but a few had short carbines : they were also pro-
vided with round shields. We had an ample suf-
ficiency of arms for the whole party, which now
consisted of sixty men ; and besides our small
arms, we had a swivel, and two howitzers. Any

is viewed as supplication, and only tends to inspire them with
contempt for those who offer either. The tameness with which
the traders of the Missouri have heretofore submitted to their
rapacity, has tended not a little to inspire them with a poor opi-
nion of the white persons who visit them through that channel.
A prevalent idea, and one which they make the rule of their con-
duct, is, that the more harshly they behave towards the traders,
the greater the quantity of merchandize they will bring them,
and that they will obtain the articles they wish on better terms.
They have endeavoured to inspire the Aricaras with similar sen-
timents, but happily without effect.

85

attempt to avoid the Indians would have been
abortive, inasmuch as a boat, in ascending the
Missouri, can only effect it by going along the
edges of the river, it being wholly impossible to
stem the middle current ; and as the banks are in
many places high and perpendicular, we must ine-
vitably be in their power frequently, as they might
several times in the course of a day shower a volley
of arrows upon us, and retire unseen. Our al-
ternative, therefore, was, as we supposed, either
to fight them or return. The former was imme-
diately decided on, and we landed nearly opposite
to the main body. Our first care was to put all
the arms in complete order : afterwards the swivel
and the howitzers were loaded with powder only,
and fired to impress them with an idea that we
were well prepared. They were then heavily
loaded, and with as man) bullets as it was sup-
posed they. would bear, after which we crossed
the river. When we arrived within about one
hundred yards of them, the boats were sta-
tioned, and all seized their arms. The In-
dians now seemed to be in confusion, and when
we rose up to fire, they spread their buffaloe robes
before them, and moved them from side to side.
Our interpreter called out, and desired us not to
fire, as the action indicated, on their part, a wish
to avoid an engagement, and to come to a parley.
We accordingly desisted, and saw about fourteen

8G

of the chiefs separate themselves from the crowd
who were on the summit of the bank, and descend
to the edge of the river, where they sat down on
the sand, forming themselves into a portion of a
circle, in the centre of which we could see pre-
parations making to kindle a fire, evidently with a
design to smoke the calumet with us, and signs
were made, inviting us to land. Mr. Hunt re-
quested that Messrs. Crooks, M'Kenzie, Miller,and
M'Clellan would attend him in his boat, and I accom-
panied Mr. M'Kenzie. The object was to consider
whether it was advisable to place so much confidence
in so ferocious and faithless a set, as to accept the
invitation. It did not require much deliberation,
as we found ourselves under the necessity of either
fighting or treating with them, it was therefore
determined to hazard the experiment of going
ashore. The party who remained in the boats
were ordered to continue in readiness to fire on the
Indians instantly, in case of treachery, and Messrs.
Hunt, M'Kenzie, Crooks, Miller, and M'Clellan,
with the interpreter and myself, went ashore.
"We found the chiefs sitting where they had first
placed themselves, as motionless as statues ; and
without any hesitation or delay, we sat down on
the sand, in such a manner as to complete the cir-
cle. When we were all seated, the pipe was
brought by an Indian, who seemed to act as priest
on this occasion ; he stepped within the circle, and

lighted the pipe. The head was made of a red
stone, known by mineralogists under the term
of killas, and is often found to accompany copper
ore ; it is procured on the river St. Peters, one of
the principal branches of the Mississippi. The
stem of the pipe was at least six feet in length,
and highly decorated with tufts of horse hair, dyed
red. After the pipe was lighted, he held it up to-
wards the sun, and afterwards pointed it towards
the sky, in different directions. He then handed
it to the great chief, who smoked a few whiffs,
and taking the head of the pipe in his hand, com-
menced by applying the other end to the lips of
Mr. Hunt, and afterwards did the same to every
one in the circle. When this ceremony was end-
ed, Mr. Hunt rose, and made, a speech in French,
translated as he proceeded into the Sioux language
by Dorion. The purport of the speech was to
state, that the object of our voyage up the Mis-
souri was not to trade ; that several of our brothers
had gone to the great salt lake in the west, whom
we had not seen for eleven moons. That we had
come from the great salt lake in the east, on our
way to see our brothers, for whom we had been
crying ever since they left us ; and our lives were
now become so miserable for the want of our bro-
thers, that we would rather die than not go to
them, and would kill every man that should op-
pose our passage. That we had heard of their

88

design to prevent our passage up the river, but we
did not wish to believe it, as we were determined
to persist, and were, as they might see, well pre-
pared to effect our purpose ; but as a proof of our
pacific intentions, we had brought them a present
of tobacco and corn. About fifteen carottes of
tobacco, and as many bags of corn, were now
brought from the boat, and laid in a heap near the
great chief, who then rose and commenced a
speech, which was repeated in French by Dorion.
He commenced by stating that they were at war
with the Ricaras, Mandans, and Gros Ventres or
Minaterees, and the injury it would be to them if
these nations were furnished with arms and amuni-
tion ; but as they found we were only going to our
brothers, they would not attempt to stop us. That
he also had brothers, at a great distance north-
ward, whom he had not seen for a great many
moons, and for whom he also had been crying.
He professed himself satisfied with our present,
and advised us to encamp on the other side of the
river, for fear his young men should be trouble-
some. When the speech was ended, we all rose,
shook hands, and returned to the boats. During
this conference, 1 had an opportunity of noticing
these Indians, a great number of whom were as-
sembled on the bank above us, and observed that
they are in stature considerably below the Osages
Mahas, and Poncars, and much less robust. They

89

are also much more deficient in clothing and orna-
ments, a considerable number being entirely naked,
but all armed. Several of our party were acquaint-
ed with these tribes, and represent them much as
described by Lewis. Although the squaws are
very ill treated by all Indians, it is said these treat
them much worse than any other tribe, whence it
follows that the mothers frequently destroy their
female children, alleging as a reason, that it is bet-
ter they should die than live to lead a life so miser-
able as that to which they are doomed. Amongst
the Sioux women also it is said suicide is not un-
frequent, and the mode which they adopt to put
an end to their existence, is by hanging themselves.
They are of opinion that suicide is displeasing to
the Father of Life, and believe will be punished in
the land of spirits by the ghost being doomed for
ever to drag the tree on which they hang them-
selves : for this reason they always suspend them-
selves to as small a tree as can possibly sustain their
weight. In the course of the afternoon we met a
chief who belonged to a party of Teton Okandandas,
consisting, as he said, of 30 lodges. He asked for
a passage in the boats during the rest of the day.
It was granted to him, and he remained with us
during the night.

June 1. — This morning the old chief was con-
veyed over the river, and landed on the opposite

G

90

side, as he said he expected to meet his people, but
we did not see him again. In the afternoon we
entered upon the Great Bend, or, as the French
call it, the Grand Detour, and encamped about
five miles above the lower entrance. This bend is
said to be twenty-one miles in circuit by the course
of the river, and only 1Q00 yards across the neck.

2nd. — In the morning early we discovered two
Indians standing on the bluffs before us, who imme-
diately after discovering us, spread their buffalo
robes in token of being amicably inclined towards
us. We crossed over the river, and when we ap-
proached them, they spread out their arms in a
horizontal position. This action, I was informed,
was an appeal to our clemency. When we landed
they shewed evident symptoms of alarm. This
was soon accounted for by Messrs. Crooks, M'Clel-
lan, and Miller, who informed us that they knew
these fellows, and that they were chiefs of the Sa-
lionies and Okanandans, who the year preceding
had behaved extremely ill, by plundering and
otherwise maltreating them, in such a manner as to
render it necessary for their safety to escape down
the river in the night, and abandon the trade with
the upper Indians for that year, which had been a
great loss to them. They seemed very apprehen-
sive that Mr. Crooks would now resent their con-
duct j but after we had smoked with them they

91

became more tranquil. During the smoking Mr.
Hunt asked them why they killed white men, as
he heard that they had killed three during the last
summer ? They replied, because the white men
kill us : that man (pointing to Carson) killed one
of our brothers last summer. This was true. Car-
son, who was at that time amongst the Ricaras,
fired across the Missouri at a war party of Sioux,
and it was by a very extraordinary chance he killed
one of them, as the river is fully half a mile in
breadth, and in retaliation the Sioux killed three
white men. I observed that, as before, in smoking
the pipe they did not make use of tobacco, but the
bark of Cornus sanguinea, or red dog wood, mixed
with the leaves of Rhus glabra, or smooth sumach.
This mixture they call kinnikineck. After we had
smoked, they spoke of the poverty of their tribes,
and ended by saying they expected a present. A
few carottes of tobacco and bags of corn were laid
at their feet, and they appeared satisfied. As these
were the last of the Sioux tribes we expected to
meet, I now determined to walk all day, and was
much pleased that the restraint imposed on me by
the proximity of these vagabonds was now removed.
I therefore proceeded up the bluffs nearly abreast
of the boats. In about a quarter of an hour after-
wards two other Indians rode hastily past me, and
overtook the boats. I observed that they had a
short conference with Mr. Hunt, when they turned

g 2

9$

their horses about, and again rode past me, seem-
ingly in a rage. Mr. Hunt called to me, and re-
quested that I would come on board instantly, and
I was informed by him that these fellows were also
chiefs, and had seen our presents, with which they
were much dissatisfied, and in consequence had
followed the boats to extort more. In reply to
their insolent demands, Mr. Hunt informed them
that " he had given all he intended to give, and
would give no more," adding, " that he was much
displeased by their importunity, and if they or any
of their nation again followed us with similar de-
mands, he would consider them as enemies, and
treat them as such." As we were not exactly ac-
quainted with the strength of these two tribes, and
expected Uiat, in consequence of "the disappoint-
ment in their rapacious demands, they would attack
us, it was arranged that the large boat should ascend
on the N.E. side of the river, and the three smalt
boats on the S.W. as the bluffs on either side of
the river can be seen much better from the opposite
side ; and it was agreed that the signal on seeing
Indians should be two shots fired in quick succes-
sion. As we had not much apprehension of being
attacked on the S.W. side, I went ashore after din-
ner, and continued along the river nearly on a line
with the boats, and about four o'clock heard the
signal given of Indians being seen. I instantly ran
towards the boats, and arrived as they were pre-

93

paring to quit the shore to aid Mr. Hunt and his
party in the large boat, apparently then in the most
imminent danger. They had passed betwixt a
large sand bar and the shore, and it was evident to
us that at that juncture they had found the water
too shallow at the upper end, and were under the
necessity of turning back. The sand bar prevented
the possibility of putting out into the river, and we
saw with horror that at least 100 Indians had ar-
rived on the bank at the lower end of the bar : we
could also perceive that they were a war party, as
they were painted with black and white stripes, and
all had shields.* As we had every reason to con-
clude that these were the Teton Okandandas and
the Teton Sahonies, our anxiety for the safety of
Mr. Hunt and the party in the large boat was in-
describable when we saw large bodies of the Indians
every moment arrive at the point near which he
must unavoidably pass, before we could possibly
give him any assistance: but our anxiety was
changed to surprise on seeing the boat pass within
a short distance of them unmolested ; soon after

* It may be observed here, that all the Indians who inhabit
the prairie use shields in war; but to those who inhabit a woody
region they are wholly unknown, as in action, excerpting in close
fight, each man conceals himself behind a tree. The shields
made use of are circular, and near thirty inches in diameter.
They are covered with three or four folds of buffalo skin, dried
hard in the sun, and are proof against arrows, but not a bullet.

£il<

which the Indians ran along the bank to the upper
end of the sand bar, threw down their arms, their
shields, and their buffalo robes, and plunged into
the river in crowds to meet us ; and before we
could reach the sand bar. they were round our
boats, holding up their hands in such numbers, that
it became tiresome to shake hands with so many.
We now found that this was a war party, consisting
of Aricaras, Mandans, and Minetarees, or Gros
Ventres, who were come against the Sioux, and
having discovered us, had determined for the pre-
sent to abandon the enterprise, expecting that on
our arrival at the Aricara Town they would obtain
a supply of fire arms and ammunition, which would
give them a superiority over their enemies. Dur-
ing the ceremony of shaking hands we were joined
by the large boat, and it was determined that we
should encamp at the first convenient place. We
soon found one that was suitable, and the Indians
fixed their camp about one hundred yards from
ours. I now ascertained that the party consisted
of near 300 warriors. As we had plenty of provi-
sions, a supply was given to the Indians, who pre-
pared their supper, after which the chiefs and prin-
cipal warriors came to our tents. . In Mr. M'Ken-
zie's tent there were seven, none of whom appeared
to me to be lower than five feet ten inches ; some
more than six feet. Most of them had very good
countenances, differing from the heavy face of the

95

Osage, or the keen visage of the Sioux. One of
them had an aquiline nose, and had a scarified line
running along each arm, and meeting on his sto-
mach. I enquired of our interpreter for what pur-
pose he had done it ? He said it was to show his
grief for the death of his father. Whilst I was
endeavouring to converse with him, an Indian boy
came into the tent, and handed water round to the
chiefs in a gourd shell tied to the end of a stick.
He spoke to the boy, who went out, but soon re-
turned with a new pair of ornamented mockasons,
and handed them to the warrior, who it then ap-
peared had observed that mine were dirty and far
worn, as he took them off my feet, and put on the
new pair, tying them himself. I observed that he
had a short carbine and a powder flask. J begged
to look at the latter, and rinding it only contained
a very small quantity of powder, I immediately fill-
ed it from my own flask. He was greatly pleased
with the acquisition of so much powder, and in-
formed me that he was a Ricara, and should meet
me at their town, where we should be brothers.
We were interrupted by one of the chiefs crying
" How," signifying amongst the Indians " Come
on," or " let us begin." This occasioned silence,
and he began to strike on one hand with a war club
which he held in the other. It had a globular
head, on one side of which was fixed the blade of
a knife, five or six inches in length. The head

96

was hollow, and contained small bits of metal,
which made a jingling noise as he struck in quick
time. The singing now commenced, and conti-
nued at intervals until past midnight. The song
is very rude, and it does not appear that they are
capable of combining the expression of ideas with
music, the whole of their singing consisting in the
repetition of the word ha six or seven times in one
tone, after which they rose or fell a third, fourth,
or fifth, and the same in quick time. I observed
that their voices were in perfect unison, and al-
though, according to our ideas of music, there was
neither harmony nor melody, yet the effect was
pleasing, as there was evidently system, all the
changes of tone being as exactly conformable in
point of time as if only one voice had been heard.
Whenever their performance ceased the termina-
tion was extremely abrupt, by pronouncing the
word how in a quick and elevated tone.

On the morning of the 3d, the chiefs declared
to Mr. Hunt their intention of immediately return-
ing to their nation, and that they expected to arrive
in three days, although they had been sixteen days
in coming out. They also demanded some arms and
ammunition. This demand, conformable to the
custom of war parties, had been foreseen, but was
not complied with ; as Mr. Hunt informed them,
that when we arrived at their nation, we should

97

furnish abundance. After we had left them, the
chief overtook us on horseback, and said that his
people were not satisfied to go home without some
proof of their having seen the white men. Mr.
Hunt could not now resist, and gave him a cask of
powder, a bag of balls, and three dozen of knives,
with which he was much pleased. Whilst the ar-
ticles were delivering to him, an Indian came
running up, and informed us that there was a boat
an sight, coming up the river. We immediately
concluded that it was the boat belonging to Manuel
Lisa, and after proceeding five or six miles, we
waited for it. I was much pleased, on the boat's
joining us, to find that Mr. Henry Brackenridge
was along with Mr. Lisa ; I became acquainted
with him at St. Louis, and found him a very ami-
able and interesting young man. Mr. Lisa had
made the greatest possible exertions to overtake
us, being well apprised of the hostile disposition
of the Sioux. He had met a boat, which, it ap-
peared, had passed us in the night, and the people
informed him that they had been fired upon by the
Indians. As the conjunct party now consisted of
ninety men, and we were approaching the nations
who were at war with the Sioux, our fears had
almost subsided ; and for myself, I was much gra-
tified on finding the restraints removed which had
so long circumscribed my motions. In the early
part of this day the wind was fair, but after we

98

had proceeded some miles, it changed to north
east, and blew so strong, that we could not stem
the torrent against it, and our difficulties were in-
creased by the rising of the river. I went to the
bluffs, which in this part are of considerable ele-
vation, but rise in a gentle slope from the river ;
near the summit is a stratum of deep brown -coloured
earth, from two to three hundred feet in breadth,
on the declivity of the hill. This earth appears
mostly to consist of decomposed iron ore, and is
evidently a continuation of that seen near Little
Cedar Island, although distant from it near 100
miles in a right line. I observed, that uniformly
the flat tops of the hills were nearly covered with
masses of stone, chiefly Breccia. There was some-
thing so singularly constant in this appearance,
that I was tempted to attend to a particular exami-
nation, and became convinced that these groupes
of stone were the passive cause of the hills.
If the group was of an oblong form, the hill was a
ridge ; if was nearly circular, the hill was a cone.
It would be difficult to describe the sensations oc-
casioned by a view at once of these hillls, and the
valley of the Missouri. The mind is irresitsibly
impressed with the belief that the whole surface
of the surrounding country was once at least on a
level with the tops of these hills ; and that all be-
low has been carried away by the erosion of water,
from which it has been protected in the parts where

99

these stones were collected.* I remarked this day,
that the wolves appeared to be more numerous and
more daring than in any former part of our voyage.
Within the last week, we had frequently seen i
few in the course of each day, but now, some of
them were almost constantly in sight, and so fear-
less, as frequently to stand at no great distance to
gaze. For the present, they were protected by
their worthlessness, their skins being out of season.
It appears that in a natural state, the wolf is a
diurnal animal ; but in the neighbourhood of con-
densed and stationary population its habits change,
and it becomes nocturnal^ On my route this day
I saw numerous colonies of the prairie dog ; and
from the frequency of the occurrence, I noticed that
my approach to their burrows was announced by the
screams of a species of corlieu. I shot one, and as-
certained it to be a variety of Scolopax arquata ; and
perceived, after I noticed the fact, that the alarm was
invariably given. On my return to the boats, I
found that some of the leaders of our party were

* An enquiry into the length of time which it has required to
produce this effect, might be a matter of great interest to the
Chinese philosophers.

•f During the Autumn, whilst the Indians are employed in
killing game for their Winter's stock, the wolves associate in
flocks, and follow them at a distance to feed on the refuse of the
carcases; and will often sit within view, waiting until the Indians
have taken what they chuse, and abandoned the rest.

100

extremely apprehensive of treachery on the part of
Mr. Lisa, whom they suspected ha<l an intention
of quitting us shortly, being now no longer in fear
of the Sioux, with an intention of doing us an in-
jury with the Aricaras. Independant of this feel-
ing, it had required all the address and influence
of Mr. Hunt to prevent Mr. M'Clellan or Mr.
Crooks from calling him to account for instigating
the Sioux to treat them ill the preceding year.
Besides, it was believed by all, that although ap-
parently friendly, he was anxiously desirous that
the expedition should fail. Lisa had twenty oars,
and made much greater expedition than we had,
it was evi ent, therefore, that he had it in his
power to leave us, and it was determined to watch
his conduct narrowly.

4th. — The boats did not make much way, and I
walked chiefly on and beyond the bluffs, which I
found of the same description as those observed
yesterday, and on still farther examination, became
more confirmed in my opinion regarding the origin
of the hills. On the summit of one I found some
fragments of bones in a petrified state, apparently
belonging to the buffalo. I had for some time past
noticed on the declivities circular spaces of about
six or seven feet in diameter, wholly divested of
every kind of vegetation, and covered with small
gravel. The frequent occurrence of these this day

. 101

attracted my more particular attention, and I found
that they were caused by a large species of black
ant, hundreds of which were running in every di-
rection within the area with astonishing activity.
On finding a large beetle, I put it in the centre of
one of these areas, when it was instantly seized by
those nearest to it. For a short time the ants were
dragged along with ease \ but by some unknown
and surprising faculty the intelligence wras imme-
diately spread throughout the whole space : they
ran from every direction towards the centre, and
in a few seconds the poor beetle became completely
covered, and escape was impossible.

5th. — We had not proceeded more than four
miles before a very heavy rain commenced, and
we were compelled to stop and fix up the tents.
I went as usual to the bluffs, and on my return to
secure some interesting specimens of plants, found
that Lisa had encamped about one hundred yards
above us. After I had dried my clothes, I again
visited the bluffs in company with Mr. Bracken-
ridge. We discovered on the bank of a small creek
the remains of an Indian encampment, which had
apparently been occupied by a considerable num-
ber, and for some time, as there was a great quan-
tity of bones spread on the ground, and the marks
where the wigwams stood were numerous. We
agreed that the situation was judiciously chosen to

102

prevent surprise. On ascending the hills, and look-
ing over the summit, we observed near us a small
herd of buffaloes, consisting of two cows and three
bulls. We immediately drew back, and taking
advantage of a ravine, approached within thirty or
forty yards, and fired. We wounded one of the
cows, which Mr. Brackenridge pursued. Several
other herds of buffaloes were in view, and some
antelopes or cabri. I found the hills all capped
with stones, and was still more confirmed in my
opinion respecting their formation by observing
some large detached blocks, each lying on a small
pyramid of clay. After Mr. Brackenridge joined
me, we observed a large hare, Lepus variabilis, the
first I had noticed, and also a number of wolves in
several directions, and returning through an ex-
tensive colony of prairie dogs, we regained the
boats. Immediately on my return to our camp, a
circumstance happened that for some time threat-
ened to produce tragical consequences. It appear-
ed that during our absence Mr. Lisa had invited
Dorion, our interpreter, to his boat, where he had
given him some whiskey, and took that opportunity
of avowing his intention to take him away from
Mr. Hunt, in consequence of a debt due by Do-
rion to the Missouri Fur Company, for whom Lisa
was agent. Dorion had often spoken to us of this
debt, and in terms of great indignation at the man-
ner in which it had been incurred, alleging that he

103

had been charged the most exorbitant prices for
articles had at Fort Mandan, and in particular ten
dollars per quart for whiskey. Some harsh words
had therefore passed betwixt him and Lisa, and
he returned to our camp. On the instant of my
arrival, Mr. Lisa came to borrow a cordeau, or
towing-line, from Mr. Hunt, and being perceived
by Dorion, he instantly sprung out of his tent, and
struck him. Lisa flew into the most violent rage,
cried out, " O mon Dieu! ou est mon couteaul"
and ran precipitately to his boat. As it was ex-
pected he would return armed, Dorion got a pair
of pistols, and took his ground, the party ranging
themselves in order to witness the event. Soon
after, Mr. Lisa appeared without pistols; but it
was observed that he had his knife in his girdle.
As Dorion had disclosed what had passed in Lisa's
boat, Messrs. Crooks and M'Clellan were each
very eager to take up the quarrel, but were res-
trained by Mr. Hunt, until an expression from
Lisa, conveying an imputation upon himself, made
him equally desirous of fighting. He told Lisa
that the matter should be settled by themselves,
and desired him to fetch his pistols. I followed
Lisa to his boat, accompanied by Mr. Bracken-
ridge, and we with difficulty prevented a meeting,
which, in the present temper of the parties, would
certainly have been a bloody one.

10*

The river had risen considerably during the
night, and we were now convinced that the floods
we had before encouutered, and which were of
short duration, were only partial ; and caused by
the rising of the tributary streams, having their
sources in the lower regions. The periodical flood
is occasioned by the melting of the snows on the
rocky mountains, and the plains at their feet. The
boats ascended with difficulty, which gave op-
portunities for walking the whole of the day. In
the early part, we passed the remains of an old
Aricara village. The scite was indicated by an
embankment, on which had been pallisadoes, as
the remains were still visible. W ithin the area,
the vestiges of the lodges were very apparent, and
great quantities of bones, and fragments of earth-
enware were scattered in every part. The wolves
are still numerous, and are mostly of a light grey
colour, with a few black hairs intermixed on the
hind part of the back : they are seen singly, and
although not timid, show no disposition to attack.
Happening to come on one this day suddenly and
unperceived, I shot him. He was large, and ap-
peared to be old, as his teeth were much worn.
The country beyond the bluffs continues still very
fine, but cut up in many places by deep ravines,
occasioned by torrents during heavy rains. The
sides of these ravines uniformly exhibited an un*

105

der stratum of hard yellow clay, of an indeter-
minate depth.

7th. — Went out early on the S. W. side, with
some of the hunters, and on reaching the summit
of the bluffs, observed a range of high hills pas-
sing off to the westward, apparently to the distance
of thirty of forty miles. These, I was informed,
by the hunters, bounded the Chien or Chayenne
river. Two buffaloe were killed, and one Cabri,
or antelope. The hunter who killed the last as-
sured me that he had allured it by putting a hand-
kerchief at the end of his ramrod, and lying down,
continued to wave it, whilst he remained con-
cealed : the animal, it seems, after a long contest
betwixt curiosity and fear, approached near enough
to become a sacrifice to the former.

8th. — Since the affair of the 5th, our party has
had no intercourse with that of Mr. Lisa, as he
kept at a distance from us, and mostly on the pp-
posite side of the river ; this deprived me of the
society of my friend Bracken ridge. I regretted
this circumstance, and purposed to have joined
him this morning, but was prevented by our
stopping to breakfast, on an island, on which our
hunters killed two buffaloe and two elk. Of the
former, we had, for some days past, seen a great
number of herds, consisting of from fifty to a

H

W6

hundred in each. On expressing my surprise, the
hunters assured me, that so far from its being ex-
traordinary, they had been in the expectation of
seeing them in much greater numbers. Some of
the hunters, who had been six or eight years about
the head of the Missouri, said they had seen them
during their annual migrations from north to south,
in Autumn, and to the northward in Spring.
They all agreed in stating, that at these times they
assemble in vast herds, marching in regular order.
Some asserted that they had been able to distin-
guish where the herds were beyond the bounds of
the visible horizon, by the vapour which arose
from their bodies. Others stated that they had
seen herds extending many miles in length. It
appeared also to be a well known fact among them,
that in these periodical migrations, they are much
less fearful of the hunter. I must observe of the
hunters, that any accounts which I heard from
them, and afterwards had an opportunity to prove,
I found to be correct \* and when the great extent of

* During our voyage, I often associated with the hunters, to
collect information from their united testimony, concerning- thh
nature and habits of animals, with which no men are so well
acquainted, This knowledge is absolutely necessary to them,
that they may be able to circumvent or surprise those which are
the objects of chase, and to avoid such as are dangerous ; and
likewise to prevent being surprised by them. They can imitate
the cry or note of any animal found in the American Wilds, so

107

this plain, and its fertility in grass are considered,
we cannot but admit that the number of animals
it is capable of containing must be immense. In

exactly, as to deceive the animals themselves. I shall here state
a few, of what I certainly believe to be, facts ; some I know to
be so, and of others I have seen strong- presumptive proofs. The
opinion of the hunters, respecting the sagacity of the Beaver,
goes much beyond the statements of any author whom 1 have
read. They state that an old beaver, who has escaped from a
trap, can scarcely ever be caught afterwards, as travelling in si-
tuations where traps are usually placed, he carries a stick in his
mouth, with which he probes the sides of the river, that the
stick may be caught in the trap, and thus saves himself.

They say also of this animal, that the young are educated by
the old ones. It is well known that in constructing their dams,
the first step the beaver takes, is to cut down a tree that shall
fall across the stream intended to be dammed up. The hunters
in the early part of our voyage informed me, that they had often
found trees near the edge of a creek, in part cut through and
abandoned, and always observed that those trees would not have
fallen across the creek, and that by comparing the marks left by
the teeth on those trees, with others, they found them much
smaller ; and therefore not only concluded that they were made
by young beavers, but that the old ones perceiving their error,
had caused them to desist. They promised to shew me proofs of
this, and during our voyage I saw several, and in no instance
would the trees, thus abandoned, have fallen across the creek.

I have myself witnessed an instance of a doe, when pursued,
although not many seconds out of sight, so effectually to hide her
fawn, that we could not find it although assisted by a dog. I
mentioned this fact to the hunters who assured me that no dog
nor perhaps any beast of prey, can follow a fawn by the scent,
and shewed me in a full grown deer, a gland and a tuft of red hair
situated a little above the hind part of the fore foot which had 3

H 2

108

the forenoon, we passed the mouth of Chayenne
river, where it is 400 yards in width. It is des-
cribed by the hunters as being a very fine river,
and navigable for several hundred miles. We en-
camped this night in a beautiful grove, ornamented
with a number of rose and currant bushes, en-
twined with grape vines, now in bloom.

9th. — Mr. M'Clellan, with two of our men, and
three belonging to Lisa, were dispatched to the
Aricaras, to apprize them of our coming, and to
see how far it was practicable to procure horses for
the journey by land. Soon after we set out, we
saw a great number of buffaloe on both sides of
the river, over which several herds were swimming.
Notwithstanding all the efforts made by these poor
animals, the rapidity of the current brought num-
bers of them within a few yards of our boats, and
three were killed. We might have obtained a
great many more, but for once we did net kill be-
cause it was in our power to do so ; but several
were killed from Lisa's boat. In the evening, Mr.
Lisa encamped a little above us, and we were in-
formed by his party, that about sun-set they had
seen six Indians.

very strong smell of musk. This tuft they call the scent, and
believe that the route of the animal is betrayed by the effluvia
proceeding from it. This tuft is mercifully withheld until the
animal has acquired strength. What a benevolent arrangement \

109

10th. — A fine breeze sprang up early in the day,
and we proceeded rapidly. About noon, Mr.
M'Clellan and his party appeared on the bank of
the river, having found that they could not reach
the Aricara nation before the boats. About the
middle of the afternoon, we met a canoe with
three Indians. They had come from the Aricaras,
where intelligence of our approach had been brought
by the war party which met with us on the 1 st. They
had made a great parade with the presents which
they received from us, and of the exploitwhich they
had achieved in discovering the white men coming.
They reported that the Mandans, who were of
the party, had urged that they should attack Mr.
Hunt's boat, when it was in the situation already
described, which they, (the Aricaras) had pre-
vented. They also stated, that the Minatarees, or
Gros Ventres Indians had killed two white men,
on the river above the Missouri Fur Company's
fort. We encamped three miles above the mouth
of the river Cer-xver-cer-na, after travelling thirty-
five miles.

11th. — We hoped this day to arrive at the Ari-
caras, but did not derive so much benefit from the
wind as we expected ; and after passing the river
Ma~ra-pa, we encamped about six miles below the
town, near an island on which they were formerly
settled.

110

12th. — During this night we had a severe thun-
der storm, and such torrents of rain,, that our beds
were completely wet. We set out early, and about
half way to the town, we met a canoe with two
chiefs, and an interpreter, who is a Frenchman,
and has lived with this tribe more than twenty
years : he married a squaw, and has several
children. The chiefs were good looking men ;
one of them is called the head chief, or king, and
is named by the French Le Gaicc/ie, being left-
handed ; the other is the war chief, and called the
Big Man. The interpreter informed us that the
chiefs had come to a resolution to oppose our farther
progress up the river, unless a boat was left to trade
with them. Mr. Hunt explained to the chiefs the
object of his voyage, and that he would willingly
trade for horses. About ten o'clock, we landed
on the north side, opposite the town, or rather
towns, as there are two distinct bands, and their
villages are about eighty yards apart. Our first
care was to spread out the beds and baggage to
dry. Whilst the men were occupied in this busi-
ness, the chief informed us, from the other side of
the river, that he would be ready to meet us in
council, when we should chuse to come over.
As the river is here at least eight or nine hund-
red yards in breadth, it may appear surprising
that he could make himself understood at so great
a distance ; but to those who have heard the In-

Ill

tlian languages spoken,and who are acquainted with
the Indians, it will appear very credible. In
all the Indian languages which I have heard, every
syllable of the compound words is accented ; as,
for instance, the primitive name of this nation,
Starr -ahe, they pronounce Star-ra-he. In addition
to this construction of their languages, the In-
dians have remarkably loud voices. The leaders of
our two parties had not yet spoken to each other,
since the affair of the 5th ; nor had any communi-
cation, except through the medium of Mr. Brack-
enridge or myself. It was evident that Lisa was
still suspected ; and M'Ciellan., in particular, care-
fully watched his motions, determined to shoot
him if he attempted to cross the river before us, to
attend the council of the Indians, contrary to what
had been previously agreed upon with Mr. Bracken-
ridge on his behalf. Soon after noon, Mr. Hunt man-
ned the large boat, and with Messrs. M'Kenzie and
M'Clellan, went over the river : Lisa also attend-
ed in his barge. Mr. Bracken ridge and myself
were of the party. On landing, amongst a crowd
of Indians, we were conducted to the council
lodge by some chiefs, who met us ; where we sat
down on buffaloe skins prepared for us, and spread
on the ground. I noticed that this lodge was con-
structed in a manner similar to those already des-
cribed, belonging to the Ottoes. An old Indian
lighted the pipe, and handed it to the chief; after

112

which he squatted himself on his hams, near the
entrance of the lodge. Although there were
nearly twenty present, I soon learned from Do-
rion, (near whom I had placed myself) that se-
veral of the chiefs were not yet assembled. Af-
ter we had smoked for a short time, Le Gauchey
the chief, spoke to the old Indian at the door,, who
went out of the lodge : he soon after appeared on
the top, and was visible to us through the hole
left for the smoke. What the chief dictated to
him from wTithin, he bawled out aloud, with the
lungs of a St en tor. I understood that his object
was to summon the chiefs to council, and it
was promptly obeyed, as in ten minutes all were
assembled. I now found that although we had
smoked, the council pipe had not been yet lighted ;
this was now done by the same old Indian, who it
seems was both priest and herald. Jx Gauche
made the customary appeal to the Great Spirit, by
puffing the smoke in different directions towards
heaven and earth ; after which the pipe was ap-
plied to the lips of each assembled, the chief still
holding it. He then opened the council by a short
speech : in the first place, he spoke of their po-
verty, but said that they were very glad to see us,
and would be still more glad to trade with us.
Lisa replied, and expressed his intention to trade,
if they did not rate their buffaloe and beaver too
high. He then mentioned Mr. Hunt and his party

113

as his friends, and said he should join them in re-
senting and repelling any injury or insult. Mr. Hunt
declared that the object of Ills journey was not to
trade, but to see our brothers, at the great salt
lake in the west ; and for that undertaking he
should now want horses, as he proposed to go from
thence by land. That he had plenty of goods to
exchange, if they would spare the horses. Mr.
Lisa and Mr. Hunt accompanied their speeches by
suitable presents of tobacco, he Gauche spoke,
and expressed the satisfaction of his people at our
coming, and their attachment to the white men.
In respect to the trade with Mr. Lisa, he wished
for more time, to fix the price of dried buffaloe
skins, (usually called buffaloe robes) the article
they had most of; his present idea of the price was
thirty loads of powder and ball for each robe.
Respecting Mr. Hunt's proposition, he was cer-
tain they could not spare the number of horses
that he understood he wanted ; and that he did
not think they ought to sell any horses. hes
Yeux Gris, another chief, replied to the latter
part of his speech, by stating that they might easily
spare Mr. Hunt a considerable number of horses,
as they could readily replace them by stealing or
by smoking.* These arguments governed the

* It was not difficult to comprehend that horses might be ob-
tained by stealing., but how they could be procured by smoking

114

opinions of the chiefs, and it was determined to
open a trade for horses, when they were satisfied
with the price Mr. Hunt purposed to give. The
council now broke up, and Messrs. Hunt, M'Ken-
zie, M'Clellan, Dorion, and myself were conduct-
ed to the lodge of one of their chiefs, where there
was a feast of sweet corn, prepared by boiling,
and mixing it with buffaloe grease. Accustomed
as I now was to the privation of bread and salt, I
thought it very palatable. Sweet com, is corn ga-
thered before it is ripe, and dried in the sun : it is
called by the Americans green corn, or com in
the milk. I quitted the feast, in order to exa-
mine the town, which I found to be fortified all
round with a ditch, and with pickets or pallisadoes,
of about nine feet high. The lodges are placed
without any regard to regularity, which renders it
difficult to count them, but there appears to be
from 150 to 160, and they are constructed in the
same manner as those of the Ottoes, with the ad-
ditional convenience of a railing on the eaves: be-

I did not then understand. On the first opportunity, I enquired
from Mr. Crooks, who is remarkably well acquainted with In-
dian customs; from him I learned, that it is a practice with tribes
in amity to apply to each other in cases of necessity. When
one tribe is deficient in any article of which the other has abun-
dance, they send a deputation who smoke with them, and inform
them of their wants. It would be a breach of Indian courtesy to
send them away without the expected supply.

115

hind this railing they sit at their ease and smoke.
There is scarcely any declivity in the scite of the
town, and as little regard is paid to cleanliness, it
is very dirty in wet weather. I spent the re-
mainder of the day in examining the bluffs, to as-
certain what new plants might be collected in the
neighbourhood ; having now, for the first time in the
course of our voyage, an opportunity to preserve
living specimens. During this time, the rest of the
boats crossed over the river, and a camp was
formed about 200 yards below the town. Lisa was
nearer to it.

13th.— The morning being rainy, no business
could commence in the village until the afternoon,
when Mr. Hunt exhibited the kind and quantity
of goods he purposed to give for each horse. These
were placed in the lodge of Le Gauche, for general
inspection, and proved to be satisfactory. I this
day employed myself in forming a place for the re-
ception of living specimens, a little distance belowr
our camp, and near the river, for the convenience
of water.

14th. — T understood that Lisa and the chiefs
had agreed that the price of a buffaloe robe should
Le twenty balls, and twenty loads of powder. He
removed a part of his goods to the lodge of Le
"Gauche, and Mr. Hunt began to trade at the

116

lodge of the Big Man. The trade for horses soon
commenced ; the species of goods most in demand
were carbines, powder, ball, tomahawks, knives,
&c. as another expedition against the Sioux was
meditated. Whilst the trading was going on, I
wralked with Mr. Brackenridge to the upper vil-
lage, separated from the lower one by a small
stream. In our walk through the town, I was ac-
costed by the Medicine Man, or doctor, who was
standing at the entrance of a lodge, into which we
went. It appeared that one of his patients was
within, who was a boy , for whom he wTas prepar-
ing some medecine. He made me understand that
he had seen me collecting plants, and that he knew
me to be a Medicine Man ; frequently shaking
hands, he took down his medicine bog, made of
deer skin, and showed me its contents. As I sup-
posed this bag contained the whole materia medica
of the nation, I examined it with some attention.
There was a considerable quantity of the down of
reedmace, (Typha palustris) which I understood
wras used in cases of burns or scalds ; there was also
a quantity of a species of Artemisia, common on the
prairies, and known to the hunters by the name of
Hyssop, but that ingredient which wras in the great-
est abundance, was a species of wall-flower; in cha-
racter it agrees with Cheiranthus erysimoides ; besides
these, I found two new7 species of Astragalus, and
some r oots of Rudbec Ida purpurea. After examining

the contents of the bag, I assured the doctor it was
all very good, and we again shook hands with him,
and went into several other lodges, where we were
very hospitably received. Although they sit on
the ground round the fire, buffaloe robes were al-
ways spread for us, and the pipe was invariably
brought out, whilst the squaw prepared something
for us to eat ; this consisted of dried buffaloe meat,
mixed with pounded corn, warmed on the fire in
an earthen vessel of their own manufacture : some
offered us sweet corn, mixed with beans, fPhas-
eolus.J The squaws were particularly attentive to
us, and took every opportunity to examine such
parts of our dress as were manufactured, and not
of skins. After our return, I went to the trading
house, and found that the trade for horses went on
very briskly. The instant a horse was bought, his
tail was cropped, as they would then be easily dis-
tinguished from those belonging to the Indians,
which are in all respects as nature formed them.
On my return to our camp, I found the warrior
there with whom I had become acquainted on the
1st instant. He insisted so much on my going to
his lodge, that I went with him ; where he spread
a very finely painted buffaloe robe for me to sit on,
and showed me, by signs, that it was now mine.
In return, I gave him a pair of silver bracelets,
with ornaments for the ears and hair, having
brought a considerable quantity of those articles

118

from St. Louis. With these lie was so much
pleased, that he requested me to sleep at his lodge
during our stay, and informed me that his sister
should be my bedfellow. This offer I declined, al-
ledging as an excuse, that I had voluntarily en-
gaged to assist in keeping guard round our camp.
I found, on my return, that the principals of our
party were engaged in a very serious consultation
on our present situation. All our fresh provisions
were exhausted, and of the dried buffaloe bought
at the Poncars, not more remained than was
thought necessary to reserve for the journey by
land. A few bags of Indian corn being all that
remained, it was thought expedient to apply to
the same purpose, to be parched, ground, and mix-
ed with sugar. It had been this day ascertained
that the Aricaras could not spare us any provisions,
as the excessive rains had penetrated into their
caches* and spoiled the whole of their reserved
stock, so that they expected to be in want them-
selves before the harvest would come in. In addi-
tion to our difficulties, a rumour had been spread this
afternoon, and it was believed, that the Sioux had

* The nations on the Missouri, always liable to be surprised
and plundered by the Teton villains, annually conceal a quantity
of corn, beans, &c. after harvest, in holes in the ground, which
are artfully covered up. These hoards are called by French*
cashe, from the verb casher, to hide

119

followed us, and were now in the neighbourhood,
to the amount of four or five hundred. Whether
this was true or not, the consequences were the
same to us, as our hunters could not, with any de-
gree of prudence be suffered to go out ; nor indeed
were they willing. In this dilemma, no means
could be thought of for the removal of our diffi-
culties, but to purchase some of the spare dogs
from the Indians, particularly those employed in
dragging their sledges, and this measure was
resolved on. It may be here remarked, that horses
and dogs are the only animals which the Indians
domesticate : of the latter they have two varieties,
one of these they employ in hunting ; the other
appears to be of a stupid and lazy nature, always
remaining about the village, and employed as men-
tioned above.

15th. — In conformity with the measure deter-
mined upon last evening, a number of dogs were
purchased this morning, brought to the camp, and
shot for breakfast. I went out to collect, accompa-
nied by Mr. Brackenridge, and proceeded farther
into the interior than I had before done. I was
rewarded by several new species of plants, and by
farther confirmation of the geological formations,
as the hills situated at a distance from the river
have uniformly flat summits, covered with frag-
ments of rock, mixed with smaller stones and gra-

vel. On our return, and when about three mile*
from the camp, we saw Indians pouring out from
the village, some on horseback, others on foot, and
all at full speed. They went in a direction to our
right, towards some hills, five or six miles distant
down the river. A young Indian soon after, in
passing us at some distance, changed his course,
and came up to me. He spoke with great ear-
nestness, frequently pointing to the hills, on the
tops of which I observed some horsemen apparently
meeting each other, and after passing turn back,
which w7as continued gallopping. I at length com-
prehended that enemies were near, and that seeing
me only armed with a pistol, he wished me to has-
ten to the camp. When we came nearer the towTn,
I observed that the tops of the lodges were crowd-
ed with women, children, and old men, all looking
earnestly towards the hills, and considerable num-
bers were still running past our camp. I now en-
quired the cause of the tumult, and found that a
signal had been given, indicating the appearance of
a war party of the Sioux. The noise and confusion
was such as I have not often witnessed : the war
whoop was heard in every direction, and even the
old men in the village w7ere busily employed in ani-
mating the v/arriors. Some aged Nestors tottered
along with the crowd, raising their shrill voices to
encourage the young and vigorous to exert them-
selves in repelling the foe. If any enemy really

121

appeared, they had immediately fled on being dis-
covered, a thing not at all unlikely, as it is con-
formable to their customs, and in this instance the
more probable, as the Sioux would naturally expect
that our party would join their adversaries. At all
events, the party soon returned in as much disorder
as they went out. I observed, that amongst the war-
riors of this and the other nations, several had foxes'
tails attached to the heels of their mockasons, and
I am informed by Captain Winter, who resided some
time at Michillimakinac, that the same custom pre-
vails among the tribes in Upper Canada, and that
this honour is only permitted to such warriors as
have killed an enemy on his own ground.

16th. — I went into the village, and found that
the chiefs were assembled to hear from the warriors
an account of what had passed the preceding day.
As they were not in the habit of printing newspapers,
the news was carried through the village by heralds,
wTho stood at the door of the council-lodge, and from
time to time went through the village to give informa-
tion. On my return to the camp, I found that a ne-
gotiation was going on betwixt Mr. Hunt and Mr.
Lisa respecting the boats belonging to our party,
which were no longer of any use. These Mr. Hunt
was willing to exchange with Mr. Lisa for horses,
of which he had a considerable number at the Fort
belonging to the Missouri Fur Company, about

200 miles higher up the river. Mr. Hunt, some
days previous to this, presented to me the smallest
boat, which was a barge built at Michillimakinac \
and three American hunters, whom we found at
the Aricara nation, agreed to assist me in navi-
gating it down the river, when I should be dis-
posed to return. The three other boats, and some
Indian goods, were finally exchanged with Mr.
Lisa. In consequence of this arrangement, I
found that a party were to be dispatched in a few
days to the Fort for the horses, and I instantly re-
solved to accompany them, if permitted. After an
excursion to collect plants, I walked into the village
in the evening, and found that a party had arrived,
who had been on an expedition to steal horses, in
which they were successful. This event, and the re-
turn of the war party, caused an unusual bustle; the
tops of the lodges were crowded with men, women,
and children. Several of the old men harangued
them in a loud voice. The subject I understood to
be an exhortation to behave well towards the white
people, and stating the advantages they derived by
an intercourse with them. Notwithstanding all
this tumult, some of the women continued their
employment in dressing the buffaloe skins, which
are stretched on frames, and placed on stages,
erected both for this purpose and to dry or jerk
the flesh of animals cut into thin slices.

123

17th. — It was determined that Mr. Crooks should
go to the Company's Fort for the horses, and as
more than thirty had been bought from the Arica-
ras, the men who were to accompany him began to
select from amongst them such as they thought the
best able to perform the journey. Although re-
solved to accompany them, I did not take the same
precaution. This neglect occasioned me after-
wards much vexation. I had already expressed
my wish to undertake the journey, and Mr. Hunt
had not absolutely refused to permit me ; but he
tried by arguments to dissuade me from it. He
represented to me the danger which the party ran
of being cut off by the Sioux, the fatigue of riding
on an Indian saddle, &c. I therefore did not for
the present press the subject, excepting to Mr.
Crooks, who knew my determination, and was much
pleased with it. After devoting the greatest part of
the day to the increasing of my collection, I went
into the village, and found that some Indians had
arrived from the Chayenne nation, having been sent
to inform the Aricaras of their intention to visit
them in fifteen days. One of these Indians was
covered with a buffalo robe, curiously ornamented
with figures worked with split quills, stained red
and yellow, intermixed with much taste, and the
border of the robe entirely hung round with the
hoofs of young fawns, which at every movement
made a noise much resembling that of the rattle-

*3

mi

snake when that animal is irritated. I understood
that this robe had been purchased from the Ara-
pahoes, or Big Bead Indians, a remote tribe, who
frequent the Rocky Mountains. I wished much
to purchase the robe, and offered him such articles
in exchange as I thought most likely to induce him
to part with it, but he refused. The day following
it was purchased by Mr. M'Clelland, who gave it
to me for silver ornaments and other articles,
amounting to about ten dollars. I found that these
Indians could not speak the Aricara language,
having need of an interpreter. This place was
supplied by one of the Aricaras, who could speak
their language. They were tall and well propor-
tioned men, but of a darker complexion than the
Aricaras. This nation has no fixed place of resi-
dence, but resort chiefly about the Black Hills,
near the head of Chayenne river, having been driven
from their former place of residence, near the Red
River of Lake Winnipic, by the Sioux. Their
number is now inconsiderable, as they scarcely
muster 100 warriors. On my return to the camp,
I found it crowded with Indians and squaws,
as it had been for the two preceding evenings.
Travellers who have been acquainted with sa-
vages, have remarked that they are either very
liberal of their women to strangers, or extremely
jealous. In this species of liberality no nation can
be exceeded by the Aricaras, who flocked down

W5

every evening with their wives, sisters, and daugh-
ters, each anxious to meet with a market for them.
The Canadians were very good customers, and
Mr. Hunt was kept in full employ during the even-
ing, in delivering out to them blue beads and Ver-
million, the articles in use for this kind of traffic.
This evening I judged that there were not fewTer
than eightysquaws, and I observed several instances
wherein the squaw was consulted by her husband
as to the quantum sufficit of price, a mark of con-
sideration which, from some knowledge of Indians,
and the estimation in which their women are held,
I had not expected.

18th. — Went early to the bluffs to the south-west-
ward of the town, on one of which I observed four-
teen buffaloe skulls placed in a row. The cavities of
the eyes and the nostrils were filled with a species of
artemisia common on the prairies, which appears to
be a non-descript. On my return I caused our in-
terpreter to enquire into the reason for this, and
found that it was an honour conferred on the buf-
faloes which they had killed, in order to appease
their spirits, and prevent them from apprising the
living buffaloes of the danger they run in approach-
ing the neighbourhood. After my return I walked
into the village with Mr. Donald M'Kenzie, who
wore a green surtout. This attracted very much
the attention of the squaws, and from the surprise

125

they shewed, I believe it is a colour they were
unacquainted with. They were so anxious to
obtain a part of it, that several offered him fa-
vours as an equivalent for a piece which they
marked out. This occasioned much mirth be-
twixt us, and on my part a pretended alarm for
fear that his coat should become a spencer. We
amused ourselves some time by watching a party
who were engaged in play. A place was neatly
formed, resembling a skittle alley, about nine feet
in breadth and ninety feet long : a ring of wood,
about five inches in diameter, was trundled along
from one end, and when it had run some distance,
two Indians, wTho stood ready, threw after it, in a
sliding manner, each a piece of wood, about three
feet long and four inches in breadth, made smooth
on one edge, and kept from turning by a cross
piece passing through it, and bended backwards so
as to resemble a cross bow. The standers by kept
an account of the game, and he whose piece, in a
given number of throws, more frequently came
nearest the ring after it had fallen, won the game.

19th. — We breakfasted early, having killed the
dogs the night before, and ten horses were brought
into the camp for the party appointed to go to the
fort, beyond the Mandans, to escort the horses
agreed for with Mr. Lisa, and I now declared to
Mr. Hunt that, unless he absolutely refused me

1-27

the privilege, I was determined to accompany them.
With his accustomed kindness he consented, and a
man was dispatched to catch a horse for me on the
Prairie. As the party had cast their bullets, and
made every other preparation the preceding night,
we were all ready, when the man returned with
a very bad horse. He was small, aad apparently
weak ; but being unwilling to delay the party, I
fixed my saddle, and we set out, having previously
agreed with one of the men to take care of my
plants in my absence. We had for our guide a
person of the name of Jones, who was acquainted
with the whole of the country betwixt the Man-
dans and Aricaras ; and after passing the villages,
kept as much as possible in the ravines and valleys,
to avoid being seen by the Sioux Indians, who
we had reason to think were still lurking about the
country; as we knew that if they discovered us, they
would, almost to a certainty, cut us off. As there
were no provisions to spare in the camp, except a
little dog's flesh, we took nothing with us to eat,
nor made the least attempt to look for game,, as
our safet} perhaps depended on the celerity and
silence of our march ; we continued at a smart
trot until near eight o'clock in the evening, having
only stopped once to give the horses an oppor-
tunity to feed. Our course lay nearly north, and
we kept the river in sight the whole of the day,
sometimes very near it, and at other times five or

128

six miles distant. We encamped on the border of
a creek, not more than a mile from the Missouri,
on the open prairie. We found this place so much
infested with mosquitoes that scarcely any of us slept.
In the latter part of the day, I began to discover the
insufficiency of my horse, as it Was with difficulty
I could keep up with the rest. The reflections on
my situation, combined with the pain occasioned by
mosquitoes, kept me from closing my eyes ; in ad-
dition to this, I had already painfully experienced
the effects of an Indian saddle, which I shall de-
scribe. It consists of six pieces of wood ; two of
these are strong forked sticks, one of which is
formed to fix on the shoulders of the horse, the
other is adapted to the lower part of the back ;
they are connected by four flat pieces, each about
four inches in breadth ; two of these are so placed
as to lie on each side of the backbone of the horse,
which rises above them ; the two others are fas-
tened to the extremities of the forked sticks, and
the whole is firmly tied by thongs. Two strong
slips of buffaloe hide are doubled over each of the
upper connecting pieces, for the purpose of hold-
ing the stirrup, which is formed of a stick about
two feet long, and cut half way through in two
places, so as to divide it into three equal parts ; at
these places it is bent, and when the two ends are
strongly tied, it forms an equilateral-triangle. The
conjunct end of the foremost forked stick rises to

129

the height of eight or ten inches above the back of
the horse, and serves to fasten on it the coiled end
of the long slip of dried skin intended to serve as
a bridle : this slip is also made use of to fasten the
horse at night, to allow him sufficient space where-
in to graze, and is mostly fifty or sixty feet long.
Under the saddle is laid a square piece of buifaloe
skin, dressed with the hair upon it, and doubled
four-fold, and on the saddle the rider fixes his
blanket.

20th. — We were on horseback on the first ap-
pearance of day, and immediately abandoned the
river, passed over the bluffs, and struck into the
interior of the country. Besides my rifle and other
equipments, similar to those of the rest of the party,
I had a portfolio for securing the specimens of plants.
I had contrived already to collect some interesting
specimens by frequently alighting to pluck them,
and put them into my hat. For these opportunities,
and to ease my horse, I ran many miles alongside of
him. Notwithstanding this, about noon he seemed
inclined to give up, and I proposed to Mr. Crooks
that I should turn back : this he would by no means
agree to, but prevailed on the lightest man in com-
pany to exchange horses with me for the rest of
the day. Soon after noon, some deer were observed
grazing at a distance, and we halted in a small val-
ley, suffered the horses to graze, and one of the

130

men was dispatched to look after them, who soon
returned, having killed one. As we had not eaten
any thing from the morning of the preceding day,
this news was very acceptable, and some were dis-
patched to fetch the meat, whilst others gathered
dry buffaloe dung to boil our kettle. This oppor-
tunity afforded me the pleasure of adding to my
little collection, besides securing in my portfolio
what I had before gathered. It is perhaps needless
to observe that the men were not slow in bringing
the meat, nor that we were equally expeditious in
our cooking. We were so confident of finding
game that we did not take any part of what re-
mained, but proceeded in the hope of being able
to reach Cannon-ball river,* intending to encamp
on its banks. In the course of the afternoon, we
began to perceive innumerable herds of buffaloe ;
and had we wished to hunt, we might have killed
great numbers ; but we avoided them as much as
possible, for fear of disturbing them,, as it might
have been the means of enabling some lurking war
party to discover us. It is well known to the hunt-
ers and the Indians, that a herd of buffaloe, when

* Cannon-ball river derives its name from the singularly round
Form of the stones which are found in its bed. These are of all
sizes, from one to twelve inches in diameter, or sometimes more ;
they are of a brownish sand-stone, and before they were rounded
by attrition, must have been formed in cubes.

131

frightened, will often run 10, 15, or even 20 mifeti
before they stop. About five o'clock we perceived
before us the valley of Cannon-ball river, bounded
on each side by a range of small hills, visible as far
as the eye can reach, and as they appear to dimi-
nish regularly, in the proportion of their distance,
they produce a singular and pleasing effect. As
the evening approached, and as we considered the
danger from the Sioux much decreased, we ven-
tured to kill a buffaloe : each man cut what he
thought proper, and the remainder was left for the
wolves, who doubtless picked the bones before the
morning. On descending into the valley of the
river, some deer were observed, feeding near the
bank, whilst others were lying down near them.
Some of our men stole cautiously round a grove of
timber, and shot two of the poor animals, although
we had no great occasion for them. The Cannon-
ball river was muddy at this time ; but whether
it is constantly so or not, I could not learn. It is
here about 160 yards wide, but so shallow that we
crossed it without swimming, but not without wet-
ting some of the blankets, on our saddles. We
encamped on a very fine prairie, near the river,
affording grass in abundance, nearly a yard high,
in which we stationed our horses. The alluvion of
the river is about a mile in breadth from bluff to
bluff, and is very beautiful, being prairie, inter-
spersed with groves of trees, and ornamented with

lag

beautiful plants, now in flower. Amongst others
which I did not observe before, I found a species
of flax, resembling that which is cultivated : I
think it is the species known as Linum Perenne.
I rambled until it was quite dark, and found my
way to the camp by observing the fire.

21st. — We arose before day. Each man cook-
ed his own breakfast, cutting what suited him from
the venison, and fixing it on a stick set in the
ground, which inclined over the fire. At break of
day we were on horseback, and soon after ascended
the bluffs, and proceeded on our route. I noticed
a sensible change in the face of the country, after
we had left the river. We now found some of the
more elevated places covered with small stones,
and divested of herbage, and throughout, the soil
was of less depth, and the grass shorter and more
scanty. About ten o'clock we again found the
country to assume the same fertile appearance as
on the preceding day ; and saw herds of buffaloe
in every direction : before mid-day two were killed,
but very little was taken, except the marrow-bones;
each man, who chose to take one, hung it to his
saddle. In the course of this forenoon we observed
three rattle-snakes, of an entirely new and unde-
scribed species ; one of them I killed and carried
in my shot-pouch, and during the time we stopped
to feed our horses, I secured the skin. We passed

133

very close to several herds of buffaloe during the
afternoon, near which we always observed a num-
ber of wolves lurking. I perceived that those
herds that had wolves in their vicinity, were almost
wholly females with their calves ; but noticed also,
that there were a few bulls with them, and that
these were always stationed at the outside of the
herd, inclosing the cows with their calves within.
We came suddenly on one of these herds, contain-
ing, as we judged, from six to eight hundred ; they
immediately gallopped off; one of our party rode
after them, and overtook a calf which could not
keep pace with the rest : he instantly dismounted,
caught it by the hind leg, and plunged his knife
into its body. We took what we wanted, and rode
on. This afternoon I noticed a singularly-form-
ed hill on our right, in the direction of the Mis-
souri, apparently about 10 miles from us. It is of
an oblong shape, nearly perpendicular at the ends,
and level at the top, so as to resemble a regular
building : near the centre there rises a pic, very
steep, which seems to be elevated at least 100 feet
above the hill on which it stands. We rode this
day almost without intermission, and late in the
evening arrived at Riviere de Cceur, or Heart
River, and encamped on its banks, or, more pro-
perly, lay down in our blankets. I found that my
horse did not get worse, although he showed a great
disposition to lag behind, a certain proof of his

ISh

being very much tired, as the Indian horses, when
on a journey, have an aversion to be separated from
their companions.

22nd. — Although the distance from this place
to the Missouri Fur Company's fort was estimated
at about sixty miles, we determined if possible to
reach it this day, and were, as usual, on horseback
at day-break, having previously breakfasted on
veal. I observed the preceding days a sufficient
number of buffaloes to induce me to credit the
hunters in their reports of the vast numbers they
had seen, but this day afforded me ample confir-
mation. Scarcely had we ascended the bluffs of
Heart River, when we began to discern herds in
every direction ; and had we been disposed to de-
vote the day to hunting, we might have killed a
great number, as the country north of Heart River
is not so uniform in its surface as that we had pass-
ed. It consists of ridges, of small elevation, se-
parated by narrow vallics. This renders it much
more favourable for hunting, and although we did
not materially deviate from our course, five were
killed before noon. Mr. Crooks joined me in re-
monstrating against this waste ; but it is impossible
to restrain the hunters, as they scarcely ever lose
an opportunity, if it offers, even although not in
want of food. About two o'clock we arrived on
the summit of a ridge more elevated than any we

135

had yet passed. From tlience we saw before us a
beautiful plain, as we judged, about four mile*
across, in the direction of our course, and of similar
dimension from east to west. It was bounded on
all sides by long ridges, similar to that which we
had ascended. The scene exhibited in this valley
wras sufficiently interesting' to excite even in our
Canadians a wish to stop a few minutes and con-
template it. The whole of the plain was perfectly
level, and, like the rest of the country, without a
single shrub. It was covered with the finest ver-
dure, and in every part herds of buffaloe were feed-
ing. I counted seventeen herds, but the aggregate
number of the animals it was difficult even to guess
at : some thought upwards of 10,000. We de-
scended into the plain, and each having two mar-
row bones hung to his saddle, we resolved to dine
wherever we could first find water. In descend-
ing into the plain we came upon a small herd feed-
ing in a valley. One was shot by our party be-
fore we could possibly restrain them. At about
half the distance across the plain we reached a
small pond, where we halted, and having collected
a sufficient quantity of dry buffaloe's dung, we made
a fire, in which we disposed our bones, and al-
though the water was stagnant, we made free use
of it. During our stay here a very large herd of
buffaloes continued to feed within a quarter of a
mile of us. Some of them I observed to gaze at

136

Us, but as they were to the windward., they had
not the power of discovering what we were by the
sense of smelling. I found, on enquiry from some
of our party who were well acquainted with the
habits of that animal, that it seems to rely chiefly
on that sense for its safety. Around this herd we
counted fifteen wolves, several of which stood for
some minutes looking at us, without exhibiting
any signs of fear ; and as we did not think them
worth shooting, we left them unmolested. On
gaining the summit of the ridge forming the north-
ern boundary of the plain, we noticed a chain of
hills on our right hand, at the distance of about six
miles. Jones, our guide, assured us they were the
bluffs of the Missouri, and although we might not
be able to reach the Fort that night, yet he was cer-
tain of our being able to go to the Mandan village.
About four o'clock we fell into a trace that Jones
said was one of the roads which the Mandans usu-
ally followed when they went out to hunt. We
determined to keep along it, as we found it led us
towards the bluffs, at which we arrived in about
an hour, and passed through a narrow valley,
bounded on each side by some small rocks of se-
condary limestone. On turning an angle in the
valley, we came suddenly in view of the Missouri,
at no great distance from us. The sight of the
river caused much joy in our party; but no one had
so much occasion as myself to be pleased with it,

137

as it was with the greatest difficulty I could keep
up with the party, my horse being so tired, that
Dorion, our interpreter, and others of the party
occasionally rode after me, to beat him forward.
The trace turned up a long and very fine plain, be-
twixt the bluffs and the river. The plain conti-
nued to increase in breadth as we advanced, and
had On it a sufficiency of clumps of cotton wood so
interspersed as to prevent our seeing its upper ter-
mination. We had not been on this plain more than
half an hour, when we suddenly saw an Indian on
horseback, gallopping down the bluffs at full speed,
and in a few minutes he was out of sight, having
proceeded nearly in the same direction we were
pursuing. We considered this as a certain proof
that we were not far from the Man dan town, and
not long after, on turning round the point of a
large grove, we came in full view of it. We
could perceive that the Indian had already given
notice of our approach, as the tops of the lodges
were crowded with people ; and shortly after, as
we advanced, we saw crowds coming from the town
to meet us. From the time the first of the Indians
met us till we arrived in the town, we were conti-
nually employed in shaking hands, as every one
was eager to perform that ceremony with the whole
party, and several made us understand that they
had seen us before, having been of the war party
which we had met at the Great Bend. They con-

K

13S"

ducted us to the lodge of She-he-ke, the chief,
where we alighted. He met us at the door, and
after shaking hands with us, to my great surprise
he said in English, " come in house." I was again
surprised at one of the first objects that met my
view on entering the lodge, it was a fine dunghill
cock. On enquiry I found that She-he-ke had
brought it with him from the United States at the
time he accompanied Messrs. Lewis and Clark,
where also he learnt his English. It appeared that
immediately on the centinel announcing our ap-
proach, the squaw had set on the pot. As the vic-
tuals were ready before we had done smoking, and
as Mr. Crooks expressed a determination that we
should proceed to the Missouri Fur Company's
Fort this evening, we soon finished our meal, con-
sisting of jerked flesh of buffaloe and pounded
corn. The sun was setting when we mounted, and
several of our horses began to appear much jaded,
but mine in particular. I therefore proposed to re-
main at the Mandans ; but the party, and in
particular Mr. Crooks, wished me to go on. With
some reluctance I consented, and we pushed on
our horses, in order to reach Knife River before
it was quite dark, which by much exertion we effect-
ed, and arrived opposite to the third village of
the Minetaree, or Gros Ventres Indians, as the
night was closing in. On hallooing, some Indians
came down to the bank of the river opposite to us,.

139

and immediately ran back to the village. In a few
minutes we saw them returning along with six
squaws, each of whom had a skin canoe on her
back, and a paddle in her hand. Whilst we un-
saddled our horses they crossed the river, and the
Indians swam over, and all shook hands with us.
The squaws placed our saddles in the canoes, where
we also disposed ourselves, leaving the Indians to
drive our horses over the river, which they manag-
ed with much address, by placing themselves in
such a way as to keep them in a compact body.
This river is not rapid, but has the appearance of
being deep, and is about eighty yards wide at this
place. After saddling our horses, and giving the
squaws three balls and three loads of powder for
each man, being the price of ferriage, we passed
through the village, having seven miles still to tra-
vel in order to reach the Port :— we could not
now make our horses exceed a walk. I observed
on the hill above the town the appearance of ca-
valry, which could be only imperfectly distinguish-
ed. These Jones told me were the stages whereon
they deposit the bodies of their dead. About ele-
ven o'clock we reached the Fort, after having tra-
velled this day more than eighteen hours, with very
little intermission. We were received in a yery
friendly manner by Mr. Reuben Lewis, brother to
Captain Lewis, who travelled to the Pacific Ocean.
The mosquitoes were much less friendly to us, and

140

were in such numbers, and so troublesome, that
notwithstanding our excessive fatigue, it was next
to impossible to sleep.

23rd. — We went early to look at the horses. The
greater part were lying down, and it appeared had
scarcely moved from the place where they had been
left the preceding night, seeming to prefer rest to
food. In consequence of their jaded state, Mr.
Crooks resolved to remain at the Fort four or five
days, that they might recruit themselves. On our
return to breakfast, we found that the Fort was but
ill supplied with provisions, having little of any
thing but jerked meat ; but as that, or any other
accommodation the place afforded, was accompa-
nied by kindness and the most polite attention from
Mr. Lewis, we were much pleased with our recep-
tion. The bluffs here have a very romantic ap-
pearance, and I was preparing to examine them af-
ter breakfast, when some squaws came in belonging
to the uppermost village of the Minetarees, with a
quantity of roots to sell. Being informed that they
were dug on the prairie, my curiosity was excited,
and on tasting I found them very palatable, even
in a raw state. They were of the shape of an egg9
some nearly as large as that of a goose, others
smaller. Mr. Lewis obligingly caused some to be
boiled. The taste most resembled that of a pars-
nip, but I thought them much better. I found no

141

vestige of the plant attached to them, and anxious
to ascertain the species, I succeeded in obtaining
information from the squaws of the route by which
they came to the Fort,, and immediately set out on
the search. After much pains I found one of the
places where they had dug the plants, and to my
surprise discovered, from the tops broken off, that
the plant was one I was well acquainted with, hav-
ing found it even in the vicinity of St. Louis, where
I had first discovered it, and determined it to be a
new species of Psoralea, which is now known as Pso-
ralen esculenta. On enquiry I was informed that
this root is of the greatest importance, not only to
the Indians, but to the hunters, who, in case of the
failure of other food, from the want of success in
hunting, can always support life by resorting to it ;
and even when not impelled by want, it cannot but
be extremely grateful to those who otherwise must
exist on animal food alone, without bread or salt; at
least I then thought it so. I found the country about
the Fort, and especially the bluffs, extremely inter-
esting. It chiefly consists of argillaceous schistus,
and a very tenacious and indurated yellow clay,
exhibiting in many places the appearance of coal.
The land floods from the country behind the bluffs
had cut through them, and left large bodies of
clay standing up, with the sides perpendicular, and
resembling in appearance towers, or large square
buildings, which it was impossible to ascend. The

142

incumbent soil appears to be of excellent quality,
and was at this time covered with fine grass and a
number of beautiful plants. The roots and speci-
mens of these I collected with the greatest assi-
duity, not having yet determined to remain any
longer than until our party returned. I soon found
the number to increase so much as I lengthened
my excursions, that I resolved to remain at the
Fort until Mr. Lisa came up with his boat, and
obtain a passage with him down to the Aricaras,
and this resolution I announced to Mr. Crooks.
The Missouri had overflowed its banks some time
before our arrival, and on receding it had left num-
berless pools in the alluvion. In these the mosqui-
toes had been generated in numbers inconceivably
great. In walking it was necessary to have one hand
constantly employed to keep them out of the eyes ;
and although a person killed hundreds, thousands
were ready to take their place. At evening the
horses collected in a body round the Fort, waiting
until fires were made, to produce smoke, in which
they might stand for protection. This was regu-
larly done, and a quantity of green weeds thrown
on* each fire to increase the smoke. These fires
caused much quarrelling and fighting, each horse
contending for the centre of the smoke and the
place nearest the fire. In the afternoon we were
visited by She-he-ke, the Mandan chief, who came
dressed in a suit of clothes brought with him from

143

the United States. He informed us that he had a
great wish to go live with the whites, and that se-
veral of his people, induced by the representations
he had made of the white people's mode of living,
had the same intentions. We were able to con-
verse with She-he-ke through the medium of Jus-
sum, the interpreter for the Fort, who was a French-
man, and had married a squaw belonging to the
second village of the Minetarees, or Gros Ventres
Indians. As I expressed a wish to visit the vil-
lages, I spoke to Jussum on that subject, who rea-
dily consented to accompany me, but informed me
that in a day or two there would Ire a dance of the
squaws, to celebrate the exploits of their husbands,
when it was agreed we should go. The Fort con-
sisted of a square block-house, the lower part of
which was a room for furs : the upper part was in-
habited by Mr. Lewis and some of the hunters be-
longing to the establishment. There were some
small outhouses, and the whole was surrounded by
a pallisado, or piquet, about fifteen feet high. I
found attached to it a very pretty garden, in which
were peas, beans, sallad, radishes, and other vege-
tables, under the care of a gardener, an Irishman,
who shewed it to me with much self-importance,
I praised his management, but expressed my regret
that he had no potatoes. " Oh !" said he, " that
does not signify ; we can soon have them ; there is
plenty just over the way. ' ' I did not think the

Ill

ltian was serious ; but on mentioning the circum-
stance to Mr. Lewis, he told me that there really
were potatoes at an English Fort on the river St.
Peters, only from two to 300 miles distant.

<24th — This morning I was informed by Jussum
that the squaw dance would be performed in the af-
ternoon, and he promised to have horses ready for
us by mid-day. I packed up a few beads fcr pre-
sents, and spent the fore part of the day in my
usual way, but took a more extended range into
the interior from the river, as the air was calm,
having already discovered that the mosquitoes re-
mained almost entirely in the valley of the river,
where during calm weather it was almost impossible
to collect. On the top of a hill, about four miles
from the Fort, I had a fine view of a beautiful val-
ley, caused by a rivulet, being a branch of Knife
River, the declivities of which abound in a new
species of Eleagnus, intermixed with a singular
procumbent species of cedar (Juniperus.) The
branches are entirely prostrate on the ground, and
never rise above the height of a few inches. The
beautiful silvery hue of the first, contrasted with
the dark green of the latter, had a most pleasing
effect ; and to render the scene more interesting,
the small alluvion of the rivulet was so plentifully
covered with a species of lilly (hilium catesbceij, as
to make it resemble a scarlet stripe as far as the

U5

eye couM trace it. I returned to the Fort much
giatified, and prepared to accompany Jussum o
the dance. On our approach some fields of Indian
corn lay betwixt us and the village, which I wished
to avoid, and proposed that we should change our
route, as the corn was now nearly a yard high.*
This proposal was absolutely refused by Jussum,
and we rode on through the corn till we came to
where some squaws were at work, who called out
to us to make us change our route, but were soon
silenced by Jussum. I suspected that he commit-
ted this aggression to show his authority or im-
portance. On our arrival at the village we went
into several of the lodges, and I found them con-

* This is about the full height to which the maize grows in
the Upper Missouri, and when this circumstance is connected
with the quickness with which it grows and is matured, it is a
wonderful instance of the power given to some plants to accom-
modate themselves to climate. The latitude of this place is
about 47 degrees geographically, but geologically many degrees
colder, arising from its elevation, which must be admitted to be
very considerable, when we consider that it is at a distance of more
than 3000 miles from the ocean by the course of a rapid river.
This plant is certainly the same species of Zea that is cultivated
within the tropics, where it usually requires four months to ripen,
and rises to the height of twelve feet. Here ten weeks is suffi-
cient, with a much less degree of heat. Whether or not this pro-
perty is more peculiar to plants useful to mer, and given for wise
and benevolent purposes, I will not attempt to determine.

146

structed exactly in the same form as those of the
Aricaras. We smoked at every lodge, and 1 found
by the bustle among the women that they were
preparing for the dance, as some of them were
putting on their husbands clothes, for which pur-
pose they did not retire into a corner, nor seem
in the least discomposed by our presence. In
about half an hour the dance began, which was
performed in a circle, the dancers moving round,
with tomahawks in their hands. At intervals
they turned their faces all at once towards the
middle of the circle, and brandished their weapons.
After some time one of them stepped into the
centre of the ring, and made an harangue, fre-
quently brandishing her weapon, whilst the rest
moved round her. I found that the nature of all
the speeches was the same, which was to boast of
the actions of their husbands. One which caused
Jussum to smile I requested he would interpret.
He briefly informed me, that she had said her hus-
band had travelled south-west to a country inha-
bited by white people, which journey took him
twenty days to perform : that he went to steal hor-
ses, and when he came to the wThite people's houses,
he found one where the men were gone out, and
in which he killed two women, and stole from them
a number of horses. She corrected herself, by
denying that they were women whom her husband
had killed, and the reasons she assigned to prove

147

they were not, was what caused Jussum to smile.
The dance did not last more than an hour, and I
was informed by Jussum that it would be followed
by a feast of dog's flesh, of which it was expected
I should partake. I excused myself by saying I
wished to collect some plants, and set out alone.
In my way to the Fort I passed through a small
wood, where I discovered a stage constructed be-
twixt four trees, standing very near each other, and
to which the stage was attached, about ten feet
from the ground. On this stage was laid the body
of an Indian, wrapt in a burialo robe. As the stage
was very narrow, I could see all that was upon it
without much trouble. It was the body of a man,
and beside it there lay a bow and quiver w7ith ar-
rows, a tomahawk, and a scalping knife. There
were a great number of stages erected about a
quarter of a mile from the village, on which the
dead bodies were deposited, which, for fear of giv-
ing offence, I avoided, as I found, that although it
is the custom of these people thus to expose the
dead bodies of their ancestors, yet they have in a
very high degree that veneration for their remains
which is a characteristic of the American Indians.
I arrived at the Fort about sunset. Soon after-
wards we heard the report of a swivel down the
river, which caused us all to run out, and soon saw
the boat belonging to Mr. Lisa turning a point
about two miles below us. We returned the

148

salute, but he did not arrive that night, as the side
on which we were, to within half a mile of the
Fort, consisted of high perpendicular bluffs, and
his men were too much exhausted to reach us by
the river.

25th. — This morning I had the pleasure of again
meeting Mr. Brackenridge, and of finding that it
was the intention of Mr. Lisa to stay at least a fort-
night at the Fort. I was very glad to have so good
an opportunity of examining this interesting coun-
try. I received by the hands of Mr. Brackenridge
some small articles for trade, which I had delivered
to him at the Aricaras. This enabled me to re-
ward the gardener for his civility in offering me a
place in the garden where I could deposit my liv-
ing plants, and of this I availed myself during my
stay.

27th. — The business relative to the horses hav-
ing been arranged betwixt Mr. Lisa and Mr.
Crooks, he set out early this morning on his return
to the Aricara nation ; and as he was not without
his fears that the Gros Ventres Indians, headed by
Le Borgne, or One Eyed, would attempt to rob
him of his horses, he determined to proceed with
as much celerity as we had travelled to the Fort,
and kept his departure as secret as possible. I was
much pleased to see this chief at the Fort in a few

119

hours afterwards, being satisfied that Mr. Crooks
was now out of his reach. As it may give some
idea of the tyrannic sway with which the chiefs
sometimes govern these children of nature, I shall
relate an instance of cruelty and oppression prac-
tised by this villain. He had a wish to possess the
wife of a young warrior of his tribe, who was es-
teemed beautiful. She resisted his offers, and a-
voided him. He took the opportunity of the ab-
sence of her husband, and carried her off forcibly.
The husband was informed on his return of the
transaction, and went to the lodge of Le Borgne to
claim his wife. The monster killed him. The
young man had no father : his mother only was
living, and he was her only son. The shock de-
prived her of reason, and she reviles the wretch
whenever she meets him, and often seeks him to
procure the opportunity of doing so. Even amongst
those we term savages, the horror which the deed
has occasioned is so great, and the pity which the
situation of the poor maniac has excited so prevail-
ing, that he dares not kill her. How much then
ought Christians to detest a similar deed. He has
a most savage and ferocious aspect, and is of large
stature. He is chief of one of the villages of the
Minetarees, or, as the French call them, Gros Ven-
tres, and assumes a dominion over both, although
there are several other chiefs. It is stated by Mr.
Lewis that the two villages or bands can raise 600

ISO

warriors, but the number at this time is probably
much less. The object of this wretch in visit-
ing the Fort was to make professions of friendship,
and to obtain a present. Mr. Lisa knew very well
tlie value of his professions, but, notwithstanding,
he gave him some, with which he appeared satisfied.

28th. — Having selected some silver ornaments
which T purposed to present to She-he-ke, Mr.
Brackenridge agreed to accompany me to the Man-
dan village. We obtained horses from Mr. Lewis
for the journey, and about ten o'clock set off.
We crossed Knife River at the lower of the Mine-
taree villages, and paid the accustomed price to the
squaw who ferried us over ; for each of us three
balls and three charges of powder. Before we
left the village, we were invited into the lodge be-
longing to the White Wolf, one of the chiefs of
this village, with whom we smoked. I was sur-
prised to observe that his squaw and one of his chil-
dren had brown hair, although their skins did not
appear to be lighter coloured than the rest of the
tribe. As the woman appeared to be above forty
years of age, it is almost certain that no intercourse
had taken place betwixt these people and the whites
at the time she was born. I should have been less
surprised at the circumstance had they been one of
those tribes who change their places of residence ;
but they have not even a tradition of having resid-

151

ed in any other place than where the present vil-
lage stands. The White /FoZ/'appearedtobe much
pleased with our visit, and by signs invited us to
call at his lodge whenever we came that way. He
shook hands very cordially with us at parting. In
our way to the Mandans we passed through the
small village belonging to the Ahwahhaways, con-
sisting of not more than eighteen or twenty lodges.
This nation can scarcely muster fifty warriors, and
yet they carry on an offensive war against the Snake
and Flathead Indians. On our arrival at the Man-
dans, She-he-ke, as before, came to the door of his
lodge, and said, " come in house." We had scarce-
ly entered when he looked earnestly at us, and said,
" whiskey." In this we could not gratify him, as
wre had not thought of bringing any. I presented
the silver ornaments to him, with which he seemed
much pleased, and after smoking wre were feasted
with a dish consisting of jerked buffalo meat, corn,
and beans boiled together. I mentioned to him
my wish to purchase some mockasons, and he sent
©ut into the village to inform the squaws, who
flocked into the lodge in such numbers, and with
so plentiful a supply, that I could not buy a tenth
part. I furnished myself with a dozen pair at a
cheap rate, for which I gave a little ver mil lion,
or rather red lead, and a few strings of blue beads.
During our stay, She-he-ke, pointing to a little boy
in the lodge whom wre had not before noticed, gave

152

us to understand that his father was one of the
party that accompanied Mr. Lewis, and also indi-
cated the individual. On our return we crossed
Knife River at the upper village of the Minetarees.
The old squaw who brought the canoe to the op-
posite side of the river, to fetch us over, was ac-
companied by three young squaws, apparently
about fourteen or fifteen years of age, who came
over in the canoe, and were followed by an Indian,
who swam over to take care of our horses. When
our saddles were taken off, and put into the canoe,
Mr. Brackenridge and myself stepped in, and were
followed by the old squaw, when the three young
squaws instantly stripped, threw their clothes into
the canoe, and jumped into the river. We had scarce-
ly embarked before they began to practice on us
every mischievous trick they could think of. The
slow progress which the canoe made enabled them
to swim round us frequently, sometimes splashing
us; then seizing hold of the old squaw's paddle, who
tried in vain to strike them with it ; at other times they
wrould pull the canoe in such a manner as to change
the direction of its course ; at length they all seiz-
ed hold of the hind part, and hung to it. The old
squaw called out to the Indian who was follow-
ing our horses : he immediately swam down to
our assistance, and soon relieved us from our fro-
licksome tormentors, by plunging them successively
over head, and holding them for a considerably

153

time under water. After some time they all made
their escape from him, by diving and swimming in
different directions. On landing, by way of reta-
liation, we seized their clothes, which caused much
laughing betwixt the squaw and the Indian. We
had many invitations to have staid to smoke, but
as it was near sunset, and we had seven miles to
ride, they excused us.

29th and 30th. — Continued to add to my stock,
and the latter day observed a vein of fine coal,
about eighteen inches thick, in the perpendicular
bluff below the Fort. On shewing some specimens
of it to some of the hunters in the Fort, they as-
sured me it was a very common substance higher
up the river, and that there were places in which
it was on fire. As pumice is often found floating
down the Missouri, I had made frequent enquiries
of the hunters if any volcano existed on the river or
its branches, but could not procure from them any
information that would warrant such a conclusion.
It is probable, therefore, that this pumice stone
proceeds from these burning coal beds.

1st July. — I extended my researches up the
river, along the foot of the bluffs ; and when at
the distance of three or four miles from the Fort,
and in the act of digging up some roots, I was
surprised by an Indian, who was within a few yards

L

154

of me before I perceived him. He had a short
gun on his shoulder, and came close to me. He
shewed me by signs that he knew very well I was
collecting those roots and plants for medicine, and
immediately laying hold of my shirt, he made the
motion usual when traffic or exchange is proposed.
It consists in crossing the two fore fingers one over
the other alternately. On his pointing to a little dis-
tance from us, I perceived a squaw coming up,
followed by two dogs, each of which drew a sledge,
containing some mockasons and other small arti-
cles. The signs which he afterwards made were
of a nature not to be misunderstood, and implied
a wish to make a certain exchange for my shirt,
wherein the squaw would have been the temporary
object of barter. To this proposition I did not ac-
cede, but replied, in the Osage language, Honkoska^
(no) which he seemed to understand, and immedi-
ately took hold of my belt, which was of scarlet
worsted, worked with blue and white beads, and
made the same proposition, but with the same suc-
cess. After looking at me fiercely for a few mo-
ments, he took his gun from his shoulder, and said
in French, Sacre Crapaud, which was also repeated
by the squaw. I had foreseen that he would be
offended at my refusal, and on the first movement
which he made with his gun, I took care to be
beforehand with him, by placing my hand on the
lock of mine, which I held presented to him. In

1A

this situation we gradually withdrew from each
other, and he disappeared with his squaw and the
dogs.

2nd. — Mr. Brackenridge and myself made an
excursion into the interior from the river, and
found nothing interesting but what has already
been noticed, excepting some bodies of argillaceous
schist, some parts of which had a columnar appear-
ance. They were lying in an horizontal position,
having something the appearance of the bodies of
trees.

4th. — This day being the anniversary of the in-
dependence of the United States, Mr. Lisa invited
us to dine on board of his boat, and Messrs. Brack-
enridge, Lewis, Nuttall, and myself attended him,
and as Le Borgne and the Black Shoe, the two
Minetaree chiefs, called at the Fort before dinner,
they were invited also. They ate with moderation,
and behaved with much propriety, seeming studi-
ously to imitate the manners of white people. Af-
ter dinner Mr. Lisa gave to each of the chiefs a
glas3 of whiskey, which they drank without any
hesitation ; but on having swallowed it, they laid
their hands on their stomachs, and exhibited such
distortion of features as to render it impossible to
forbear laughing. As Jussum was present, I asked
him the meaning of some words which they spoke

156

to each other, when he informed me that they call-
ed the whiskey fire water.

As Mr. Lisa announced to us his intention to
depart on the Gth for the Aricaras, I employed
myself during the 5th in packing up carefully my
collection, and on the morning of the Gth we set
out. Our progress down the river was very rapid,
as it was still in a high state. We did not land
until evening, after making in the course of the
day more than 100 miles. In the evening and
during the night the mosquitoes were exceedingly
troublesome, and rendered it almost impossible to
sleep.

7th. — We passed Cannon-ball river about ten
o'clock, and stopped a short time at its mouth,
where I noticed and procured some additional spe-
cimens. In the evening I had again the pleasure
of meeting my former companions, and was re-
joiced to find that Mr. Crooks had arrived safe with
the horses, and that Mr. Hunt had now obtained
nearly eighty in all. Soon after -my arrival, Mr.
Hunt informed me of his intention to depart from
the Aricaras shortly. I therefore purposed to re-
turn down the river ; and as the Canadians could
not be permitted to take their trunks, or, as they
termed them, their caisettes, by land, I purchased
from them seventeen, in which I purposed to ar-

157

range my living specimens, having now collected
several thousands. It had been a custom with us
to keep a guard round our camp during the night
since our arrival at the Aricaras. Four of the par-
ty were stationed for this purpose until midnight,
and were then relieved by four others, who re-
mained on guard until morning. On the morning
of the 10th, at day-break, some Indians came to
our camp from the village, amongst whom was my
friend the young warrior. As I happened to be
on guard, he came to me, and by signs invited me
to go and breakfast with him. Whilst we were
sitting together, he suddenlyjumped up, and point-
ed to the bluffs, at the distance of three or four
miles down the river. On looking, I observed a
numerous crowd of Indians. He gave me to un-
derstand that it was a war party on their return,
and immediately ran to the village. In a few mi-
nutes the tops of the lodges were crowded with
Indians, who appeared much agitated. Soon after
an Indian gallopped past our camp, who I under-
stood was a chief. In a few minutes afterwards
parties began to come out of the village, on their
way to meet the warriors, or rather to join them,
as it is the custom for a war party to wait at a dis-
tance from the village when a victory has been
gained, that their friends may join iu the parade of
a triumphal entry ; and on such occasions all their
finery and decorations are displayed : some time

158

also is requisite to enable the warriors at home and
their friends to paint themselves, so as to appear
with proper eclat. During the time that elapsed
before the arrival of the procession, I walked into
the village, where an universal stillness prevailed.
No business seemed to be going on, excepting the
preparing of something for the warriors to eat on
their return. The squaws were employed in that
business in all the lodges into which I entered,*
and I noticed that not one of the poor squaws seem-
ed in the least solicitous about her own person :
they are too insignificant to be thought an appen-

* I noticed over their fires much larger vessels of earthenware
than any J had before seen, and was permitted to examine them.
They were sufficiently hardened by the fire to cause them to
emit a sonorous tone on being struck, and in all I observed im-
pressions on the outside seemingly made by wicker work. This
led me to enquire, of them by signs how they were made ? when
a squaw brought a basket, and taking some clay, she began to
spread it very evenly within it, shewing me at the same time
that they were made in that way. From the shape of these ves-
sels, they must be under the necessity of burning the basket to
disengage them, as they are wider at the bottom than at the top.
I must here remark, that at the Great Salt Lick, or Saline, about
twenty miles from the mouth of the Wabash, vast quantities of
Indian earthenware are found, on which I have observed im-
pressions exactly similar to those here mentioned. From the
situation of these heaps of fragments, and their proximity to the
salt works, I am decidedly of opinion that the Indians practised
the art of evaporating the brine, to make salt, before the disco-
very of America.

159

clage to a triumph. It was nearly the middle of
the day before the procession came in sight, when
I went to meet it, in order that my view might be
prolonged. A number of the old men and squaws
were also moving down from the town, to meet
them. At the head of the procession were four
standard bearers, followed by a band of warriors
on foot ; after which came a party on horseback :
to these succeeded two of the principal chiefs, be-
twixt whom was a young warrior, who I understood
had been severely wounded. Then came two
other standard bearers, who were succeeded by
another band of foot and horse, which order was
observed until the four bands of which the party
consisted had passed. They were about 300 in
number : each man carried a shield ; a few were
armed with guns, some with bows, and others with
war clubs.* They were painted in a manner that

* The bows are short, but strong. Those which are esteemed
the best, are made of the horns of the animal called by the
French gros come. This animal inhabits the Rocky Mountains,
and is gregarious. All who have seen it, represent its agility in
leaping from rock to rock as one of the most surprising things
they ever beheld. The Americans call it the mountain sheep ;
but the probability is that it belongs to the genus antelope. The
horns are exceedingly large for the size of the animal. The
bows are made of three pieces, very neatly joined together by a
long splice, and wound round with sinew in a very exact man-
ner. The next in value, and but little inferior, are made of a
yellow woqd, from a tree which grows on Red River, and per-

160

seemed as if they had studied to make themselves
hideous. Many of them had the mark which in-
dicates that they had drank the blood of an enemy.
This mark is made by rubbing the hand all over
with vermillion, and by laying it on the mouth, it
leaves a complete impression on the face, which is
designed to resemble and indicate a bloody hand.
With every band some scalps were carried, elevated
on long sticks ; but it was easy to perceive, on a
close examination, that the scalps had been divided,
to increase the apparent number. The number of
the enemy that were killed we supposed did not
exceed seven or eight, and they had themselves
lost two, so that this engagement had not been a
very bloody one. As the body approached the
town, the squaws and old men began to meet them,
and excepting the lamentations of those whose re-

haps on the Arkansas. This wood is called bois jaune, or bois
d'arc. I do not think the tree has yet been described, unless it
has been found lately in Mexico. I have seen two trees of this
species in the garden of Pierre Chouteau, in St. Louis, and found
that it belongs to the class dioecia ; but both of the trees being
females, I could not determine the genus. The fruit is as large
as an apple, and is rough on the outside. It bleeds an acrid
milky juice when wounded, and is called by the hunters the
Osage orange. The price of a bow made from this wood at the
Aricaras is a horse and a blanket. Many of the war clubs are
made of the same kind of wood, and have the blade of a knife,
or some sharp instrument, fastened at the end, and projecting
from Jour to six inches, forming a right angle with the club.

lGl

latives had been killed or wounded, the expressions
of joy became general, but without disturbing in
the least the order of the procession. I walked
into the village, which assumed a busy air. On the
entrance of the party the warriors were conducted to
the different lodges, that they might refresh them-
selves, and the old men went about shaking hands
with some, and seemingly bestowing praises on
others, who had conducted themselves well in the
battle. As the time fixed on for the departure of
Mr. Hunt and his party by land was now approach-
ing, I quitted this scene of festivity, in order to
resume my employment, and returned to the camp,
where I found the party busily employed in prepar-
ing for their departure, by parching and grinding
corn, mixing it with sugar, and putting it in bags.
I now ascertained that the three men who had pro-
mised to accompany me down the river had chang-
ed their minds, and that on account of the now
determined and inveterate hostility of the Sioux,
they could not be prevailed on to venture, although
I made them liberal offers. Two of them had de-
termined to join the expedition : the other, Amos
Richardson, was very anxious to descend the river,
four years having elapsed since he had seen the
house of a white man ; but he and myself would
not have been sufficient to navigate the boat. Not-
withstanding this I commenced to fill the caisettes
with plants, and place them in my boat, and in the

162

evening again walked up to the village, where I
met Mr. Brackenridge, who had amused himself
during the afternoon by attending to the proceed-
ings consequent on the return of the war party. I
was also met by my friend the young warrior, who
invited me into his lodge, and repeated his request
that I would be his guest during my stay. I gave
him a few yards of printed calico and some
gunpowder. In return he pressed me to accept
a bow and a quiver full of arrows. Whilst we
were smoking his sister prepared some buffalo meat
with hominy, of which we ate, and after shaking
hands with him, I joined Mr. Brackenridge. In the
village all kinds of labour amongst the women was
suspended : the old men were going from lodge to
lodge, probably to enquire the particulars of the
engagement, and to bestow praises on those who
had behaved well. The tops and entrances of the
lodges were adorned with the shields and arms of
the warriors, and all seemed joy and festivity, with
the exception of the squaws who were mourning
the loss of the killed. It may not be amiss to ob-
serve that these people had more reason to rejoice
for this victory, than many European nations have
had for those of infinitely more importance in ap-
pearance. For although it had not been attended
with so much bloodshed as some battles in Europe
have, yet it had for the present driven away an
enemy, who had for two or three weeks been ho-

163

vering round, and threatened us all with starvation.
This enemy is the oldest and most implacable they
have, and has already succeeded so far in effecting
their extermination, that they are reduced from
composing ten large tribes to their present num-
ber. These miscreants have been constantly their
oppressors, and rob and murder them sometimes
with impunity. The present number which the two
villages contain is estimated at 2000, and the war-
riors 500, but I think it overrated. They are de-
rived from the Panies, and are stout and well built.
The men go mostly naked in summer, and when
disposed to make use of a covering, it consists of
only a part of a buffalo skin thrown over the shoul-
ders, with a hole for the right arm to pass through.
This can be thrown off in an instant. They scarce-
ly ever appear without arms beyond the limits of
the town. As the nature of the country renders it
necessary that they should pursue their game on
horseback, frequent practice renders them not only
good horsemen, but also teaches them to handle
their bows, and strike an object with precision,
when at full speed, with their arrows. They chief-
ly subsist on the buffalo, and when a herd is disco-
vered, a considerable number of the hunters dis-
pose themselves in such a manner as to approach
as near as possible unperceived by them. This
must always be done with due regard to the direc-
tion of the wind, on account of the exquisite de-

164

gree in which this animal possesses the sense of
smelling. The instant they are perceived by the
herd, they dash in amongst them, each singling out
one. The horse is taught to understand and obey
the wishes of his rider, although conveyed, to him
by the slightest movement. When he has overta-
ken a buffalo, he does not offer to pass it, but con-
tinues at an even pace until the arrow is discharged,
when the rider singles out another immediately, if
he thinks the first arrow has effected his purpose.
If the horse has sufficient strength and wind to en-
able his rider to kill three buffaloes, he is held in
great estimation. None of these would be sold by
the Aricaras to Mr. Hunt. After the horses are
out of breath, they pursue the wounded animals at
leisure, as they separate from the herd on being
wounded, and are soon left behind from weakness,
occasioned by loss of blood. To produce a more
copious discharge, the heads of the arrows designed
to be used in hunting are much broader than those
intended for war. The heads of both are flat, and
of the form of an isosceles triangle ; the length of
the two equal sides three times that of the base.*
In neither does the shaft of the arrow fill up the

* Before the Indians had any intercourse with the whites,
they made the heads of their arrows of flint or horn stone. They
now purchase them from the traders, who cut them from rolled
iron or from hoops.

165

wound which the head has made ; but the shaft of
the hunting arrow is fluted, to promote a still great-
er discharge of blood. On these occasions they often
kill many more than they can possibly dispose of,
and it has already been observed that hunting par-
ties are frequently followed by wolves, who profit
by this wanton destruction.

The Aricaras do not provide any better for their
horses than the other nations of the Missouri.
They cut down the cotton wood, (Populus angu-
losaj and the horses feed on the bark and smaller
branches. I have seen instances exhibiting proofs
that these poor animals have eaten branches two
inches in diameter. The women, as is the custom
with Indians, do all the drudgery, and are excellent
cultivators. I have not seen, even in the United States,
any crop of Indian corn in finer order, or better
managed than the corn about these villages. They
also cultivate squashes, beans, and the small species
of tobacco fNicotiana rustica.J The only imple-
ment of husbandry used by them is the hoe. Of
these they were so destitute before our arrival, that
I saw several of the squawTs hoeing their corn with
the blade bone of a buffalo, ingeniously fixed in a
stick for that purpose.

I am not acquainted with any customs peculiar
to this nation, save that of having a sacred lodge

1(56

in the centre of the largest village. This is called
the Medicine lodge, and in one particular, corres-
ponds with the sanctuary of the Jews, as no blood
is on any account whatsoever to be spilled within
it, not even that of an enemy ; nor is any one,
having taken refuge there, to be forced from it.
This lodge is also the general place of deposit for
such things as they devote to the Father of life.
It does not seem absolutely necessary that every
thing devoted shall be deposited here : — one of
the chiefs, availing himself of this regulation, de-
voted his horse, or in their mode of expressing it,
" Gave it to his medicine," after which he could
not, according to their rules, give him away. This
exempted him, in respect to that particular object,
from the tax which custom lays on the chiefs of
this and most other nations. This will be ex-
plained by stating that generosity, or rather an in-
difference for self, forms here a necessary qualifi-
cation in a chief. The desire to acquire and pos-
sess more than others, is thought a passion too ig-
noble for a brave man; it often happens, there-
fore, that a chief is the poorest man in the com-
munity.

In respect to their general policy as regards
property, they seem to have correct ideas of the
meum and tuum amongst themselves; and whei
the generally thievish character of those we cal

167

savages is considered, the Indians of the Missouri
are superlatively honest towards strangers. I
never heard of a single instance of a white man
being robbed, or having any thing stolen from
him in an Indian village. It is true, that when
they find white men trapping for beaver on the
grounds which they claim, they often take from
them the furs they have collected, and beat them
severely with their wiping sticks ; but so far is this
from being surprising, that it is a wonder they do
not kill them, or take away their rifles.

The chief part of their riches consists in horses,
many of which are obtained from the nations south
west of them, as the Chayennes, Poncars, Panies,
&c. who make predatory excursions into Mexico,
and steal horses from the Spaniards. A consider-
able number of those bought from the Aricaras
were branded, and were doubtless brought from
Mexico, as the Indians do not practice branding.

There is nothing relative to the Indians so dif-
ficult to understand as their religion. They be-
lieve in a Supreme Being, in a future state, and in
supernatural agency. Of the Great Spirit they do
not pretend to give any account, but believe him
to be the author and giver of all good. They be-
lieve in bad spirits, but seem to consider them rather
as little wicked beings, who can only gratify their

168

malignity by driving away the game, preventing
the efficacy of medicine, or such petty mischief.
The belief in a future state seems to be general,
as it extends even to the Nodowessies or Sioux,
who are the furthest removed from civilization,
and who do not even cultivate the soil. It is
known, that frequently when an Indian has shot
down his enemy, and is preparing to scalp him,
with the tomahawk uplifted to give the fatal stroke,
he will address him in words to this effect, " My
name is Cashegra. I am a famous warrior, and
am now going to kill you. When you arrive at the
land of spirits, you will see the ghost of my father^
tell him it was Cashegra that sent you there. " He
then gives the blow.

In respect to laws, I could never find that any
code is established, or that any crime against so-
ciety becomes a subject of enquiry amongst the
chiefs, excepting cowardice or murder. The last
is, for the most part, punished with death, and the
nearest of kin is deputed by the council to act the
part of executioner. In some tribes, I am told,
this crime may be commuted. It scarcely re-
quires to be observed, that chastity in females is
not a virtue, nor that a deviation from it is consi-
dered a crime, wThen sanctioned by the consent of
their husbands, fathers, or brothers : but in some
tribes, as the Potowatomies, Saukies, Foxes, &c.

169

the breach of it, without the consent of the hus-
band, is punished severely, as he may bite off the
nose of his squaw if she is found guilty.

No people on earth discharge the duties of
hospitality with more cordial good- will than the
Indians. On entering a lodge I was always met
by the master, who first shook hands with me, and
immediately looked for his pipe : before he had
time to light it, a bear-skin, or that of a buffalo,
was spread for me to sit on, although they sat on
the bare ground. When the pipe was lighted, he
smoked a few whiffs, and then handed it to me ;
after which it went round to all the men in the
lodge. Whilst this was going on, the squaw pre-
pared something to eat, which, when ready, was
placed before me on the ground. The squaw, in
some instances, examined my dress, and in parti-
cular my mockassons ; if any repair was wanting,
she brought a small leather bag, in which she kept
her awls and split sinew7, and put it to rights. Af-
ter conversing as well as we could by signs, if it
was near night, I was made to understand that a
bed was at my service ; in general this offer was
accompanied also by that of a bedfellow.

The two men, Jones and Carson, whom we met
descending the Missouri on the 22nd of May, had
remained with the Aricaras during the winter, and

170

on our return, Carson was desirous of rewarding
the Indian with whom he had boarded during that
period. For that purpose he obtained some articles
from Mr. Hunt, and offered them to the savage,
who refused to accept them, and as a reason for it
observed that " Carson was poorer titan himself,

I breakfasted with Mr. Lisa the day following,
and found that he intended to send two of the
boats purchased from Mr. Hunt to St. Louis, with
skins and furs, and that Mr. Brackenridge purpos-
ed to descend with them. I knew also that in a
week our party would take their departure for the
Pacific Ocean. Messrs. Hunt, Crooks, and M'Ken-
zie invited me to go to the Pacific, and in the first
instance I was inclined to accept the invitation ;
but finding that they could not assure me of a pas-
sage from thence to the United States by sea, or
even to China, and recollecting also that I must
sacrifice my present collection by adopting that
measure, and that in passing over the Rocky Moun-
tains, I should probably be unable to preserve or
carry my specimens, I declined. There was now
something of uncertainty whether Mr. Lisa would
return to St. Louis in autumn, or remain during
the winter.

On duly weighing all these circumstances, I re-
solved to return in the boats which were intended

171

to be dispatched down the river, although it did
not exactly suit my views, as I had noticed a great
number of species of plants on the river that, from
the early state of the season, could not then be col-
lected advantageously. These I had reserved for
my descent ; but as no man would accompany me
but Richardson, I applied to Mr. Lisa, informing
him of my wish to descend in his boats, and on
consideration of being permitted to land at certain
places which I pointed out, I offered to give him
my boat as an equivalent. To this he readily
agreed, and I continued to prepare for my depar-
ture.

It had been a matter of surprise to me on my
return from Fort Mandan, to find plenty of fresh
buffalo meat in our camp, as the fear of the Sioux had
not yet subsided. On enquiry I found that Mr. Hunt
had hit upon an expedient which proved successful.
This was to dispatch a boat up the river in the
night to some miles distant, affording by that means
an opportunity to the hunters. This boat returned
with a plentiful supply, and secured the party from
starving, as a considerable portion of the Indian
dogs were already consumed. I was not less sur-
prised on learning that at least two-thirds of our
Canadians had experienced unpleasant consequen-
ces from their intercourse with the squaws, not-
withstanding which, the traffic mentioned before

m2

172

continued. I had been informed by Jones and
Carson of the existence of this evil, but found it
was of the mildest description, and that here, where
no spirituous liquors or salt is used, they do not
fear it. I found some of the Canadians digging
up roots, with which I understood they made a
decoction, and used it as a drink. They mostly
preferred the roots of Rudbechia purpurea, and
sometimes they used those of Houstonia longifolia.

This morning a circumstance came to our know-
ledge, that gave serious alarm to Mr. Hunt and the
leaders of the party. During the night a cask of
gunpowder belonging to me had been stolen from
amongst the baggage, and from the security of our
situation, and the precautions we had taken, it was
impossible the Indians could have stolen it. Our
camp was situated immediately on the bank of the
river ; the tents, together with the men sleeping in
their blankets, surrounded the baggage, and four
men were constantly on guard during the night,
walking round the camp in sight of each other. I
had been on guard in the fore part of the night,
and Mr. Crooks on the latter watch. No collusion
could therefore be suspected. Other circumstan-
ces also concurred in producing a belief that some
of the party intended to desert, and on examination
I found that one of my trunks had been opened,
and a pistol, some flints, my belt, and a few shirts,

173

taken out In confirmation of our opinions, John
Day, one of the hunters, informed Mr. Hunt of
his having overheard some of the Canadians mur-
muring at the fatigues they had already undergone,
and expressing an opinion that they should all be
murdered, in the journey they were going to un-
dertake. The safety of the party depended, in a
great measure, on its strength ; a diminution in
the number, if considerable, might therefore
defeat the enterprize ; a search was made in all
the neighbourhood of the camp, and even in the
bank of the river, but without effect. As my boat
might facilitate a desertion, I caused it to be re-
moved to Mr. Lisa's camp, who moored it in safety
with his own boats ; and I employed myself, for
the remainder of the day, in filling the boxes.

On account of my constant attention to plants,
and being regularly employed in collecting, I was
considered as the physician of the party by all the
nations we saw ; and generally the medicine men
amongst them sought my acquaintance. This day,
the doctor, whom Mr. Brackenridge and myself
saw in the upper village, and who showed me his
medicine bag, came to examine my plants. I
found he understood a few French words, such as
bon> mal, &c. I presented him with some small
ornaments of silver, with which he appeared to be
very much pleased, and requested of me that I

17^

would go to his lodge, and smoke with him. When
I entered, he spread a fine new buffaloe robe for
me to sit on, and showed me that it was a present,
which he wished me to accept. I smoked with him,
and regretted much that we could only converse by
signs, and he seemed also to feel the same regret.
He showed me a quantity of a plant lately gathered,
and by signs informed me that it cured the cholic.
It was a new species of Amorpha. I returned to
the camp, accompanied by the doctor, who very
politely carried the buffaloe robe for me.

On the 17th I took leave of my worthy friends,
Messrs." Hunt, Crooks, and M'Kenzie, whose kind-
ness and attention to me had been such as to ren-
der the parting painful ; and I am happy in having
this opportunity of testifying my gratitude and res-
pect for them : throughout the whole voyage, every
indulgence was given me, that was consistent with
their duty, and the general safety. Mr. Lisa had
loaded two boats with skins and furs, in each of
which were six men. Mr. Brackenridge, Amos
Ilichardson, and myself were passengers. On
passing our camp, Mr. Hunt caused the men to
draw up in a line, and give three cheers, which we
returned j and we soon lost sight of them, as we
moved at the rate of about nine miles per hour.
I now found, to my great surprise, that Mr. Lisa
had instructed Mr. Brackenridge not, on any ac*

175

count, to stop in the day, but if possible, to go
night and day. As this measure would deprive
me of all hopes of adding to my collection any of
the plants lower down on the river, and was di-
rectly contrary to our agreement, I was greatly
mortified and chagrined ; and although I found that
Mr. Brackenridge felt sensibly for my disappoint-
ment, yet I could not expect that he would act
contrary to the directions given by Lisa, and had
the mortification during the day, of passing a num-
ber of plants that may probably remain unknown
for ages.

Our descent was very rapid, and the day re-
markably fine ; we had an opportunity, therefore,
of considering the river more in its tout ensemble
than in our ascent, and the changes of scenery
came upon us with a succession so quick, as to
keep the eye and the mind continually employed.
We soon came in sight of the bluffs which border
the Chayenne river, stretching as far as the eye
could reach, and visible only through the low in-
tervals in those bordering the Missouri. Before
night we passed the Chayenne, and during a few
moments had a view of its stream, for two or three
miles above its junction with the Missouri. It is
one of the largest rivers that falls into it, being at
least 400 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable
to a great distance. The banks appear to be more

176

steep than those of the Missouri, and are clothed with
trees to the water's edge. On both sides of the
river we saw numberless herds of buffaloe, grazing
in tranquillity, some of them not a quarter of a
mile from us when we passed them. We continued
under way until late in the evening, and encamped
on an island ; a measure we determined to pursue
when practicable, as we knew that to fell into the
hands of the Sioux would be certain death.

18th. — We set out early, and continued under
way during the whole of the day without interrup-
tion, and encamped on Great Cedar Island, where
a French trader, named L'Oiselle, formerly had a
post or trading house. This island is about two
miles in length, and mostly covered with very fine
cedar, and some rose and currant bushes, consider-
ably overrun with vines, on which some of the
grapes were already changing colour.

19th. — In the early part of the day we arrived
at the upper part of the Great Bend, and continued
to see innumerable herds of buffaloes on both sides
of the river. I now found that although our pa-
tron, or steersman, who conducted the first boat,
and directed our motions, was determined to obey
strictly the orders of Lisa as regarded expedition,
yet from his timidity I had some hope of opportu-
nities to collect.

177

Before we entirely passed the Great Bend a
breeze arose, which ruffled the surface of the river :
He put ashore, not daring to proceed, and we lay
to during the remainder of the day, having descend-
ed about 280 miles in about two days and a half.
I determined not to lose this opportunity to add a
few species to my collection, and was accompanied
in my excursion by Mr. Brackenridge, who em-
ployed himself in keeping a good look out for fear
of a surprise by the Sioux, a precaution necessary
to my safety, as the nature of my employment kept
me for the most part in a stooping posture. The
track of land which is inclosed in the Bend proba-
bly contains about forty square miles, nearly level,
and the soil excellent. It was at this time covered
with fine grass, with scattered groves of trees, be-
twixt which many herds of buffaloes were quietly
grazing : we did not wish to disturb them, for fear
of thereby enabling the Sioux to discover us.

20th — About nine o'clock we discovered some
buffaloes grazing near the edge of the river, about
half a mile below us, and in such a position that
we might apparently approach very near them with-
out being discovered. We landed a little above
them, and approached within about sixty yards,
when four of the party fired. It appeared that two
were wounded, one of which fled towards the river,
into which it plunged, and was immediately pur-

sued by one of the boats, whilst the party ashore fol-
lowed the other, among whom I ran, but I was much
less intent on obtaining the buffalo, than on pro-
curing some plants which I knew were to-be had
on the bluffs, and actually succeeded. In about
half an hour the party gave up the pursuit, being
unsuccessful, and returned discouraged to the place
where they had left me. But as I had not gone
over the bluffs, and had observed what had passed
in the river, I gave them the pleasing intelligence
that the boat had overtaken the other buffalo, and
that the men were now employed in dragging the
carcass ashore. We soon joined them, and in a few
minutes the animal was skinned and cut up. It
was by much the fattest we had seen, and the tal-
low it contained was very considerable.*

We soon passed White River, which is inferior
both in magnitude and beauty to the Chienne, if we
may judge from its mouth, where it is not more than
300 yards wide. Soon after we passed the river,

* I am informed by the hunters, that in autumn the quantity
©f tallow or fat in the buffalo is very great. It of course begins
to diminish when food becomes scarce. As the same thing- ob-
tains in a number of animals, by climate and habit ordained to
procure abundance of food in summer, and to suffer great priva-
tion in winter, this collection of fat seems to be a kind of reser-
voir, containing the means of existence, which is drained by ab-
sorbent vessels, and returned into the system when necessary.

179

we saw a buffalo running over the bluff towards
the Missouri, which put us on our guard, as we
considered it a certain indication of Indians being
near. Immediately below the river the vast vein
of iron ore commences which has been before
mentioned. I again noticed its exact conformity
on both sides of the river, in point of elevation and
thickness of the vein.

As the evening approached we noticed a succes-
sion of flashes of lightning, just appearing over the
bluffs, on the opposite side of the river. This did
not for some time excite much attention, as it was
by no means an uncommon occurrence ; but we
soon began to apprehend impending danger, as we
perceived that the storm advanced with great rapi-
dity, accompanied with appearances truly terrific.
The cloud was of a pitchy blackness, and so dense
as to resemble a solid body, out of which, at short
intervals, the lightning poured in a stream of one
or two seconds in duration. It was too late to
cross the river, and unfortunately for us, the side
on which we were was entirely bounded by rocks.
We looked most anxiously for some little harbour,
or jutting point, behind which we might shelter
ourselves \ but not one appeared, and darkness
came on with a rapidity I never before witness-
ed. It was not long that any choice was left us.
We plainly beard the storm coming. We stopped

180

and fastened our boats to some shrubs,, ( Amorpha
JruticosaJ which grew in abundance out of the clefts
of these rocks, and prepared to save ourselves and
our little barks if possible. At each end of the
boats there was a small deck : under these we stow-
ed our provisions, &c: next to the decks were
piled the packs of skins, secured by ropes, and in
the middle a space of about twelve feet long was
left for the oarsmen. Fortunately for us we had
some broad boards in each boat, designed as a de-
fence against arrows, had we been attacked by the
Sioux. These boards we placed on the gunwale
of the boats, and crammed our blankets into such
parts as the lightning enabled us at intervals to see
did not fit closely. Before we had time to lash
our boards the gale commenced, and in a few mi-
nutes the swell was tremendous. For nearly an
hour it required the utmost exertion of our strength
to hold the boards to their places, and before the
storm abated we were nearly exhausted, as also
were those who were occupied in baling. As the
river is in this place nearly a mile in breadth, and
being on the lee shore, the waves were of consider-
able magnitude, and frequently broke over the
boats. Had our fastenings given way, we must
inevitably have perished. When the wind abated the
rain increased, and continued for the greater part
of the night, during which my friend Brackenridge
and myself lay on the deck, rolled up in our wet

181

blankets, congratulating ourselves on our escape.
For myself I felt but little : two years in a great
measure spent in the wilds, had inured me to hard-
ships and inclemencies ; but I felt much for my
friend Brackenridge. Poor young man, his youth,
and the delicacy of his frame, ill suited him for
such hardships, which, nevertheless, he supported
cheerfully.

In the morning the sun rose unobscured, which was
to us extremely welcome, as its heat soon rendered
us comparatively comfortable. We passed the river
L'Eau qui Court, and shortly afterwards the place
where we met the Poncar Indians, and as the wind
began to blow fresh, we stopped five or six miles
lower down, nearly at the place where I met the
three Indians on the 24th of May. This enabled
me to procure roots of the new species of currant,
although with much pain and difficulty, having four
miles at least to wade through water and mud, as
the river had recently overflowed its banks. On
my return to the boats, as the wind had in some
degree abated, we proceeded, and had not gone
more than five or six miles before we were surpris-
ed by a dull hollow sound, the cause of which we
could not possibly imagine. It seemed to be one
or two miles below us ; but as our descent was very
rapid, it increased every moment in loudness, and
before we had proceeded far, our ears were able to

182

catch some distinct tones, indicating the bellowing
of buffaloes. When opposite to the place from
whence it proceeded, we landed, ascended the
bank, and entered a small skirting of trees and
shrubs, that separated the river from an extensive
plain. On gaining a view of it, such a scene open-
ed to us as will fall to the lot of few travellers to
witness. This plain was literally covered with buf-
faloes as far as we could see, and we soon disco-
vered that it consisted in part of females. The
males were fighting in every direction, with a fury
which I have never seen paralleled, each having
singled out his antagonist. We judged that the
number must have amounted to some thousands^
and that there were many hundreds of these battles
going on at the same time, some not eighty yards
from us. It wrill be recollected that at this season
the females would naturally admit the society of
the males. From attentively observing some of the
combats nearest to us, I am persuaded that our
domestic bull would almost invariably be worsted
in a contest with this animal, as he is inferior to
him both in strength and ferocity. A shot was
fired amongst them, which they seemed not to no-i
tice. Mr. Brackenridge joined rae in preventing |
a volley being fired, as it would have been useless,
and therefore wanton ; for if we had killed one,
am certain the weight of his carcass in gold
would not have bribed us to fetch him. I shall

183

only observe farther, that the noise occasioned by
the trampling and bellowing was far beyond de^
scription. In the evening, before we encamped,
another immense herd made its appearance, run-
ning along the bluffs at full speed, and although at
least a mile from us, we could distinctly hear the
sound of their feet, which resembled distant thunder.

The morning of the next day was very fine : we
saw some buffaloe swimming, at which the men fired,
contrary to our wishes, as we did not intend to stop
for them. The stream was very rapid : we passed
the Sulphur bluffs, and stopped a short time at
Floyd's grave. Shortly afterwards we arrived at
the trading house opposite the Maha village, but
saw no one, nor did we wish it, as Mr, Lisa had
not called on the Big Elk when he ascended, who
might probably be offended at his neglect. We
encamped on some drift wood from necessity, not
being able to get ashore. The navigation of the
river had now become much more difficult, and we
had in the two succeeding days some very narrow
escapes. The river was much higher than at any
former period, and from the Mahas to the River
Platte, is more crooked than in any other part. At
every sudden turn the momentum of the boats had
a continual tendency to throw them ashore on the
outer bank, which it required all the skill of the
steersman, and strength of the oarsmen, to prevent.

IS*

In two instances we were very near being carried
into the woods, in places where the river overflowed
its banks. We arrived at Fort Osage, now Fort
Clark on the 27th in the afternoon, and were very
politely received by Major Brownson. I had the
pleasure to find that Mr. Sibly had returned a few
days before from his tour to the Arkansas, to ex-
amine the vast body of salt in the neighbourhood
of that river. He very politely furnished us with
extracts from his journal, which are as follow : —

11 After giving a number of medals to the Pa-
nie chiefs, and having various counsels with them,
I left their villages on the 4th of June, and pro-
ceeded to the Little Osage Camp, on the Arkansas,
about seventy-five miles south, and sixteen east
from the Panies, where I safely arrived on the 11th.
I remained several days with the Osages, who had
abundance of provisions, they having killed two
hundred buffaloes within a few days. Where they
had their camp, the Arkansas was about 200 yards
wide, the water shallow, rapid, and of a red colour.
On the 16th the Indians raised their camp, and
proceeded towards the hilly country, on the other
side of the Arkansas. I continued with them about
fifty miles west and thirty miles east, when we fell
in with some men of the Chaniers Band, who in-
formed us that their camp was at no great distance,
and the camp of the Big Osage still nearer. In

185

consequence, I determined to pass through both
on my way to the Grand Salines. On the 21st I
rode south forty miles,, east thirty, to the Big
Osage camp ; nearly all the warriors were at war,
or abroad hunting. I was remarkably well treated
by young White Hair and family ; I however re-
mained but one night with them. On the 22d I
rode twenty miles south, fifteen east, to the Cha-
nier's camp, where we arrived about one o'clock.
We were well treated by the head men ; and in-
deed, this is one of the tribes most attached to the
Americans. The chief's name is Clermont. From
hence is fortv miles to the Grand Salines, which
we reached early on the morning of the 24th. I
hasten to give you a description of this celebrated
curiosity.

The Grand Saline is situated about twTo hun-
dred and eighty miles south-west of Fort Osage,
between two forks of a small branch of the Ar-
kansas, one of which washes its southern ex-
tremity ; and the other, the principal one, runs
nearly parallel, within a mile of its opposite side.
It is a hard level plain, of reddish coloured sand,
and of an irregular or mixed figure. Its greatest
length is from north-west to south-east, and its
circumference full thirty miles. From the appear-
ance of drift-wood that is scattered over, it would
seem that the whole plain is at times inundated by;

N

I8G

the overflowing of the streams that pass near it-
This plain is entirely covered in hot dry weather,
from two to six inches deep, with a crust of
beautiful clean white salt, of a quality rather su-
perior to the imported blown salt : it bears a strik-
ing resemblance to a field of brilliant snow after a
rain, with a light crust on its top. On a bright
sunny morning, the appearance of this natural cu-
riosity is highly picturesque : it possesses the qua-
lity of looming, or magnifying objects, and this in
a very striking degree, making the small billets of
wood appear as formidable as trees. Numbers of
buffaloe were on the plain. The Saline is environ-
ed by a stripe of marshy prairie, with a few scat-
tered trees, mostly of cotton wood ; behind these
is a range of sand hills, some of which are per-
fectly naked, others thinly clothed with verdure
and dwarf plum bushes, not more than thirty
inches in height, from which we procured abun-
dance of the most delicious plums I ever tasted.
The distance to a navigable branch of the Ar-
kansas is about eighty miles, the country tolerably
level, and the water courses easily passed. About
sixty miles south-west of this, I came to the Saline,
the whole of this distance lying over a country re-
markably rugged and broken, affording the most
romantic and picturesque views imaginable. It is
a tract of about seventy-five miles square, in which
nature has displayed a great variety of the most

187

strange and whimsical vagaries. It is an assem-
blage of beautiful meadows, verdant ridges, and
rude, mis-shapen piles of red clay, thrown together
in the utmost apparent confusion, yet affording
the most pleasing harmonies, and presenting us in
every direction an endless variety of curious and
interesting objects. After winding along for a few
miles on the high ridges, you suddenly descend an
almost perpendicular declivity of rocks and clay,
into a series of level, fertile meadows, watered by
some beautiful rivulets, and here and there adorn-
ed with shrubby cotton wood trees, elms, and ce-
dars. These meadows are divided by chains form-
ed of red clay, and huge masses of gypsum, with
here and there a pyramid of gravel ; one might
imagine himself surrounded by the ruins of some
ancient city, and that the plain had sunk, by some
convulsion of nature, more than one hundred feet
below its former level ; for some of the huge co-
lumns of red clay rise to the height of two hundred
feet perpendicular, capped with rocks of gypsum,
which the hand of time is ever crumbling off, and
strewing in beautiful transparent flakes along the
declivities of the hills, glittering like so many mir-
rors in the sun."

Mr. Sibly also showed me a letter from his fa-
ther, Dr. Sibly of Natchitoches, informing him
of a mass of native iron having been brought down

N 2

1S8

the Red River, which weighed about 2500 pounds*
In the fort we saw the young bears which we gave
them in passing up the river ; they had grown sur-
prisingly, and were quite tame, excepting whilst
feeding, when all bears are more fierce than at
other times.

28th. — After breakfasting at the fort, we set off,
and encamped near where Fort Orleans formerly
was situated.

29th. — About noon we came in sight of a white
man's house, at Boon's Lick, and our boatmen im-
mediately set up a shout. Soon after, some men
appeared at the edge of a field of Indian corn,
close to the river : they inviterl us ashore, and we
willingly complied. In passing through the corn,
I was much struck with its luxuriance : I judged
it not to be less than fourteen feet high, and the
ears were far above my head. It was Sunday, and
when we arrived at the house, we found three
women there, all dressed in clean white gowns,
and being in other respects very neat ; they form-
ed a pleasing contrast to the squaws whom we had
of late been in the habit of seeing. They soon
spread the table for us, and produced bread, milk,
and preserved fruits, which I thought the most de-
licious that I ever tasted. We arrived at St.
Louis in safety, where I had the pleasure of shaking

189

hands with my worthy friend, Mr. Abraham Gal-
latin, at whose house I slept. Early the next day,
I called at the post office, and found letters from
England, informing me of the welfare of my fa-
mily. This pleasing intelligence was damped by
a letter from my son, who informed me that those
who had agreed to furnish me with the means of
prosecuting my tour, and to whom I had sent my
former collection, had determined to withhold any
further supply. Early in the forenoon, my worthy
and respected friend, Mr. S. Bridge, from Man-
chester, came to St. Louis, and invited me to take
up my residence for the present with him; I learn-
ed from him that during my absence he had bought
a considerable quantity of land, on which he had
built a house. He sent his waggon for my plants,
and allotted me a piece of ground, which, with
much labour, I prepared in a few days, got it sur-
rounded by a fence, and transplanted the whole of
my collection. I found the situation of Mr. Bridge's
house extremely pleasant, and his plantation of the
first quality of land. Within 150 yards of his
house, was a small vein of coal, from twelve to
eighteen inches in thickness, and rising to the sur-
face. For this land he had paid one dollar, sixty-
five cents per arpent, or French acre.*

* The arpent is to the statute acre nearly in the proportion
©f 83 to 100.

190

In about ten days after my arrival I was attacked
by a bilious fever, which confined me to my bed.
Its violence soon left me little hope of recovery.
In about a month it became intermittent, and con-
tinued until the beginning of December.

During my illness a circumstance occurred, a rela-
tion of which will tend to show the almost uncon-
querable attachment to the hunting life in those ac-
customed to it. It will be remembered that a man
named Richardson accompanied us down the Mis-
souri, and that it has been related of him that he had
been several years in the wilderness. He had
there suffered more than common hardships, having
been often ill treated by the Indians, and once se-
verely wounded by an arrow. This man, during
our descent, seemed to look forward with great
anxiety to the time when we should arrive in the set-
tlements, and often declared his intention never
again to adopt the hunting life. When I had been
sick about three weeks, he came to see me, and
after some conversation, reminded me of my hav-
ing mentioned a design to ascend the Arkansas
River, and requested that I would admit him
as my companion, if I persisted in my inten-
tion. I spoke of my doubts whether I should ever
recover, and expressed my surprise at so sudden a
change in his intentions. He replied, " I find so
much deceit and selfishness amongst white men, that

191

I am already tired of them. The arrow head which is
not yet extracted pains me when I chop wood, whis-
key I can't drink, and bread and salt I don't care
about : I will go again amongst the Indians."

Towards the latter end of November I receiv-
ed a remittance from those who had determined to
withhold it, together with a letter from the person*
who managed the Botanic Garden at Liverpool,
informing me that he had received my former col-
lection, out of which he had secured in pots more
than one thousand plants, and that the seeds were
already vegetating in vast numbers. As I had
now so far recovered as to be able to ride to St.
Louis, I visited my friend Mr. Gallatin, and re-
mained with him some days, during which I often
saw a young gentleman from Philadelphia, Mr. H.
W. Drinker, who had frequently called to see me
in my sickness, and whose talents and amiable
manners had created in me a strong attachment to
him. In a tour through the country west of the
Alleghanies, he visited St. Louis, and pleased with
the beauty of the place, had resided there for some
months. Finding that I was determined to descend
the Mississippi to New Orleans, he invited me to
take my passage with him, as he purposed to take
a boat down to that place, loaded with lead, of

* This mau's Dame is Shepherd.

192

which he hail a sufficient quantity. This was a
very favourable opportunity, and I made every
exertion my weak state would admit of, to be in
readiness. A short time afterwards Mr. Drinker as-
certained that some debts due to him, and contracted
to be paid in lead, could not be collected until the
ensuing spring: he therefore found himself neces-
sitated to remain at St. Louis until that period. But
aware of the impossibility of my detaining what
yet remained of my collection till that season, he
offered to buy a boat, load it with lead, and com-
mit it to my care, with liberty to sell the lead at
Orleans, or store it for his account. This kind and
generous offer I gladly accepted, and in a few days
a boat wTas procured, and her cargo put on board,
amounting to about 30,000 lbs. of lead. Her crew
consisted of five French Creoles, four of whom were
oarsmen, and the fifth steered the boat, he is call-
ed the patron.

On the evening of the 4th of December we
were in perfect readiness, and I took leave of
my friends at St. Louis, several of whom, from
their polite attention to me, I have reason to
hold in lasting remembrance ; and in addition to
those I have already mentioned, I ought not to
omit Mr. Josh. Charless, editor of the Missouri
Gazette, whose disposition and manners gain him
the. esteem of all who know him : mine he will al-

193

ways retain. It has been omitted to state, that in
November Mr. Lisa arrived at St. Louis, and deli-
vered to me a letter from Mr. Hunt, who informed
me, that after my departure from the Aricaras,
whilst the men were still assembled to watch our
boats descend, he addressed them on the subject
of my cask of powder, which was stolen, and with
such effect, that one of the Canadians came privately
to his tent the night following, and informed him
where it was buried in the bank of the river. Mr.
Hunt caused a search to be made the day after,
and found it. As Mr. Lisa was in want of pow-
der, he bought it, and paid me for it on his return.

On the 5th of December I set off from St. Louis
on the voyage to New Orleans, a distance of about
1350 miles. I was accompanied by Mr. John
Bridge, who I admitted as a passenger at the re-
quest of his brother. He purposed to sail from
Orleans to the eastern states. We arrived at St.
Genevieve in the evening, and slept at the mouth
of Gabarie, a small creek near the village, where
boats trading to that place usually stop. Having
some business to transact at St. Genevieve, I was
detained until the afternoon of the following day.
During my stay here, I became acquainted with a
gentleman of the name of Longprie, a native of
St. Domingo. He had a boat in part loaded with
lead, intended for Orleans. It was much wished

194

by both of us that we should descend in company,
as, in case of an accident happening to one, as-
sistance might be rendered by the other ; but as he
could not be ready in less than two days, I set out,
intending to travel leisurely, thathe might be enabled
to overtake me'. It may be necessary to remark in
this place, that the navigation of the Mississippi is
attended with considerable danger, and in particu-
lar to boats loaded with lead. These, by reason of
the small space occupied by the cargo, in case of
striking against a planter or a sawyer, sink instantly.
That these terms may be understood, it must be
observed that the alluvion of the Mississippi is al-
most in every part covered with timber close to
the edge of the river, and that in some part or other
encroachments are continually made, and in parti-
cular during the time of the floods, when it often
happens that tracts of some acres in extent are
carried away in a few days. As in most instances
a large body of earth is attached to the roots of the
trees, it sinks that part to the bottom of the river,
whilst the upper part, more buoyant, rises to the
surface in an inclined posture, generally with the
head of the tree pointing down the river. Some
of these are firmly fixed and immoveable, and are
therefore termed planters. Others, although they
do not remove from where they are placed, are
constantly in motion, the whole tree is sometimes
entirely submerged by the pressure of the stream,

195

and carried to a greater depth by its momentum
than the stream can maintain. On rising, its mo-
mentum in the other direction causes many of its
huge limbs to be lifted above the surface of the
the river. The period of this oscillatory motion is
sometimes of several minutes duration. These are
the sawyers, and are much more dangerous than the
planters, as no care or caution can guard sufficiently
against them. The steersman this instant sees
all the surface of the river smooth and tranquil, and
the next he is struck with horror on seeing just be-
fore him the sawyer raising his terrific arms, and so
near that neither strength nor skill can save him from
destruction. This is not figurative : many boats
have been lost in this way, and more particularly
those descending. From these and other risks, it
is common for those carrying lead to have a canoe
with them, in which they may save themselves in
case of any accident happening to the boat.

Until the 14th, no occurrence happened worth
noticing, excepting that we saw on the bank of
the river four Indians, who beckoned to us., and
we accordingly landed near them, and found they
were Choctaws, who wanted to sell some venison
and some turkies. As they were acquainted with
the use of money,, I bought from them three tur-
kies and two hind quarters of venison for three
quarters of a dollar, being what they asked.

190

On the 1 kh in the evening, we arrived at New
Madrid, and having occasion for some necessaries,
I bought them in the morning. I was much dis-
appointed in this place, as I found only a few
straggling houses, situated round a plain of from
two to three hundred acres in extent. There are
only two stoics, and those very indifferently fur-
nished. We set off about nine o'clock, and passed
the Upper Chickasaw Bluffs ; these bluffs are of
soft sand-stone rock, of a yellow colour, but some
parts being highly charged with oxyd of iron, the
whole has a clouded appearance, and is considered
as a curiosity by the boatmen. At the lower end
of the bluffs we saw a smoke, and on a nearer ap-
proach, observed five or six Indians, and on the
opposite side of the river,, but lower down, we
heard a dog howling. When the Indians perceived
us, they held up some venison, to show us that
they wished to dispose of it. Being desirous of
adding to our stock of fresh meat, I hastily got
into the canoe, and took with me one of the men,
named La France, who spoke the Chickasaw lan-
guage, as I supposed the Indians to be of that na-
tion. We very imprudently went without arms,
an omission that gave me some uneasiness before
we reached them ; especially as the boat, by my
direction, proceeded leisurely on.

We found the Indians had plenty of deer's

197

flesh, and some turkies. I began to bargain for
them, when the people in the boat fired a shot?
and the dog on the other side of the river in-
stantly ceased to howl. The Indians immedi-
ately flew to their arms, speaking all together,
with much earnestness. La France appeared
much terrified, and told me that they said our
people in the boat had shot their dog. I desired
him to tell them that we did not believe that
pur people had shot their dog, but if they had,
I would pay them any price for him. They
seemed too much infuriated to hearken to him, and
surrounded us, with their weapons in their hands.
They were very clamorous amongst themselves,
and as I was afterwards told by La France, could not
agree whether they should immediately put us to
death, or keep us prisoners until we could procure
goods from the boat to pay for the dog, on which it
appeared they set a high value. Most fortunately
for us, the dog, at this instant began to bark opposite
to us, having run a considerable distance up the
river after the shot was fired. The tomahawks
were immediately laid aside, and I bargained for
half a deer, for which I gave them a quarter dol-
lar and some gunpowder. I wras not very exact in
measuring the last, being rather anxious to get
away, and could perceive that La France had no
desire to stay any longer.

19S

On reaching our canoe we seized our paddles,
and being told by La France that we were not
yet out of danger, I joined him in making every
exertion to get out of their reach. When we
conceived ourselves safe, we relaxed, and he told
me that even when we were leaving them, they
were deliberating whether they should detain
us or not ; some of them having remarked that
the dog might be wounded. We had been so long
delayed by this adventure, that it was more than
an hour before we overtook the boat. I blamed
them much for firing, and charged them with hav-
ing fired at the dog : this, however, appeared not
to have been the case, as they had fired at a loon,
(Mergus merganser. J In the course of this day,
we passed no fewer than thirteen arks, or Kentucky
boats, going with produce to Orleans; all these
we left a considerable distance behind, as they
only float with the stream, and we made consider-
able head way with our oars. In the evening we
came in view of a dangerous part of the river
called by the Americans the Devil's Channel, and
by the French Chenal du Diable. It appears to be
caused by a bank that crosses the river in this
place, and renders, it shallow. On this bank,
a great number of trees have lodged ; and on
account of the shallowness of the river, a con-
siderable portion of the branches are raised above
the surface ; through these the water rushes with

m

such impetuosity as to be heard at the distance
of some miles.

As it required every effort of skill and exer-
tion to pass through this channel in safety, and
as the sun had set, I resolved to wait until the
morning, and caused the boat to be moored to a
small island, about 500 vards above the entrance
into the channel. After supper, we went to sleep
as usual: about ten o'clock, and in the night I was
awakened by a most tremendous noise, accom-
panied by an agitation of the boat so violent, that
it appeared in danger of upsetting. Before I could
quit the bed, or rather the skin, upon which I lay,
the four men who slept in the other cabin rushed in
and cried out in the greatest terror, " O mon Dieu!
Monsieur Bradbury, qu'estce? qu'ily aVy I passed
them with some difficulty, and ran to the door of
the cabin, where I could distinctly see the river
as if agitated by a storm ; and although the noise
was inconceivably loud and terrific, I could dis-
tinctly hear the crash of falling trees, and the
screaming of the wild fowl on the river, but found
that the boat was still safe at her moorings. I was
followed out by the men and the patron, still in ac-
cents of terror, enquiring what it was : I tried to
calm them by saying, " Restez vous tranquil, c'est
un tremblement de terre," which they did not seem
to understand.

£00

By the time we could get to our fire, which
was on a large flag, in the stern of the boat,
the shock had ceased ; but immediately the per-
pendicular banks, botli above and below us, be-
gan to fall into the river in such vast masses, as
nearly to sink our boat by the swell they occasion-
ed ; and our jmtron, who seemed more terrified
even than the men, began to cry out, " O mon
Dieu! nous perirons ! I wished to consult with him
as to what we could do to preserve ourselves and
the boat, but could get no answer except " O mon \
Dieu! nous perirons!" and li Allons a terre! Allons \
a terre!" As I found Mr. Bridge the only
one who seemed to have retained any presence of
mind, we consulted, and agreed to send two of the
men with a candle up the bank, in order to exa-
mine if it had separated from the island, a cir-
cumstance that we suspected, from hearing the
snapping of the limbs of some drift trees, which
were deposited betwixt the margin of the river,
and the summit of the bank. The men, on ar-
riving at the edge of the river, cried out " Venez
a terre I Venez d terre ! and told us there was a
chasm formed already, so wide that it would be
difficult to pass it, to attain the firm ground. I
ordered them to go upon the island and make a
fire, and desired Mr. Bridge and the patron to fol-
low them ; and as it now occurred to me that the
preservation of the boat in a great measure de-

201

pended on the depth of the river, I tried with a
sounding pole, and to my great joy, found it did
not exceed eight or ten feet.

Immediately after the shock we noticed the
time, and found it was near two o'clock. It
was now nearly half past, and I determined to
go ashore myself, after securing some papers
and money, and was employed in taking them
out of my trunks, when another shock came
on, terrible indeed, but not equal to the first.
Morin, our patron, called out from the island,
" Monsieur Bradbury ! sauvez V021S, sauvez vous /"
I went ashore, and found the chasm really fright-
ful, as it was not less than four feet in width, and
besides the bank had sunk at least two feet. I took
the candle, and examined to determine its length,
and concluded that it could not be less than eighty
yards ; and where it terminated at each end, the
banks had fallen into the river. I now saw clearly
that our lives had been saved by having moored to
a sloping bank. Before we had completed our fire,
we had two more shocks, and they occurred dur-
the whole night, at intervals of from six to ten
minutes, but slight in comparison with the first and
second. At four o'clock I took a candle, and
again examined the bank,, and found to my great
satisfaction that no material alteration had taken
place j I also found the boat safe, and secured my

o

202

pocket compass. I had already noticed that the
sound which was heard at the time of every shock,
always preceded it at least a second, and that it
always proceeded from the same point, and went
off in an opposite direction. I now found that the
shock came from a little northward of east, and
proceeded to the westward. At day-light we had
counted twenty-seven shocks, during our stay on
the island, but still found the chasm so that it
might be passed. The river was covered with foam
and drift timber, and had risen considerably, but
our boat was safe. Whilst we were waiting till the
light became sufficient for us to embark, two ca-
noes floated down the river, in one of which we could
perceive some Indian corn and some clothes. We
considered this as a melancholy proof that some of
the boats we passed the preceding day had perished.
Our conjectures w7ere afterwards confirmed, as three
had been overwhelmed, and all on board perished.
When the daylight appeared to be sufficient for us,
I gave orders to embark, and we all went on board.
Two men were in the act of loosening the fasten-
ings, when a shock occurred nearly equal to the
first in violence. The men ran up the bank, in
order to save themselves on the island, but before
they could get over the chasm, a tree fell close by
them, and stopped their progress. The bank ap-
peared to me to be moving rapidly into the river,
and I called out to the men in the boat " Coujpez

203

les cordes /" on hearing this, the two men ran down
the bank, loosed the cords,and jumped into the boat.
We now found ourselves again on the river : the
Chenal du Diable was in sight, and appeared abso-
lutely impassable, from the quantity of trees and
drift wood, that had lodged during the night
against the planters fixed in the bottom of the ri-
ver ; and in addition to our difficulties, I noticed
that the patron and the men appeared to be so ter-
rified and confused, as to be almost incapable of
action. I determined to stop, previous to passing
the channel, in order that the men might have
time to become more composed. I had the good
fortune io discover a bank, rising with a gentle
slope, where we again moored, and prepared to
breakfast on the island. Whilst that was prepar-
ing, I walked down the island, in company with
Morin, our patron, to view the channel, in order
to ascertain the safest part, which we soon agreed
upon. Whilst we were thus employed, we expe-
rienced a very severe shock, and found some dif-
ficulty in preserving ourselves from being thrown
down ; another occurred during the time we were
at breakfast, and a third as 'we were preparing to
reimbark. In the last, Mr. Bridge, who was stand-
ing within the declivity of the bank, narrowly es-
caped being thrown into the river, as the sand con-
tinued to give way under his feet. As I observed
that the men were still very much under the influ-

o 2

20 i

ence of terror, I desired Morin to give to each a
glass of spirits, and reminded them that their safe-
ty depended on their exertions, and we pushed out
into the river. The danger we had now to en-
counter was of a nature which they understood :
the nearer we approached it, the more confidence
they appeared to gain ; and indeed, all their
strength, and all the skill of Morin, was necessary,
as there was no direct channel through the trees,
and we were several times under the necessity of
changing our course in the space of a few seconds,
and that instantaneously, not a moment being left
for deliberation. Immediately after we had clear-
ed all danger, the men dropped their oars, crossed
themselves, and gave a shout, congratulating each
other on our safety.

We continued on the river till eleven o'clock,
when there was a violent shock, which seemed to
affect us as sensibly as if we had been on land.
The trees on both sides of the river were most
violently agitated, and the banks fell in, in several
places, within our view, carrying with them in-
numerable trees, the crash of which falling into
the river, mixed with the terrible sound attending
the shock, and the screaming of the geese, and
other wrild-fowl, produced an idea that all nature
was in a state of dissolution. During the shock,
the river had been much agitated, and the men

205

became anxious to go ashore : my opinion was,
that we were much more safe on the river ; but
finding that they laid down their oars, and seemed
determined to quit the boat for the present, we
looked out for a part of the river where we might
moor it in security, and having found one, we
stopped during the remainder of the day.

At three o'clock, another canoe passed us adrift
on the river. We did not experience any more
shocks until the morning of the 17th, when two
occurred ; one about five, and the other about
seven o'clock. We continued our voyage, and
about twelve this day, had a severe shock, of very
long duration. About four o'clock came in sight
of a log-house, a little above the Lower Chickasaw
Bluffs. More than twenty people came out as soon
as they discovered us, and when within hearing,
earnestly entreated us to come ashore. I found
them almost distracted with fear, and that they
were composed of several families, who had col-
lected in order that they might pray together. On
entering the house, I saw a bible lying open on the
table. They informed me that the greatest part of
the inhabitants in the neighbourhood had fled to the
hills, on the opposite side of the river, for safety ;
and that during the shock, about sun-rise on the
16th, a chasm had opened on the sand bar opposite
the bluffs below, and on closing again, had thrown

206

the water to the height of a tall tree. They also
affirmed that the earth opened in several places
back from the river. One of the men, who ap-
peared to be considered as possessing more know-
ledge than the rest, entered into an explanation of
of the cause, and attributed it to the comet that
had appeared a few months before, which he des-
cribed as having two horns, over one of which the
earth had rolled, and was now lodged betwixt
them : that the shocks were occasioned by the at-
tempts made by the earth to surmount the other
horn. If this should be accomplished, all would
be well, if otherwise, inevitable destruction to the
world would follow. Finding him confident in his
hypothesis, and myself unable to refute it, I did
not dispute the point, and we went on about a mile
further. Only one shock occurred this night, at
half past seven o'clock. On the morning of the
18th, two shocks, one betwixt three and four
o'clock, and the other at six. At noon, a violent
one, of very long duration, which threw a great
number of trees into the river within our view. In
the evening, two slight shocks, one at six, the
other at nine o'clock.

19th. — We arrived at the mouth of the river St.
Francis, and had only one shock, which happened
at eleven at night.

20J

20th. — Detained by fog, and experienced only
two shocks, one at five, the other at seven in the
evening.

SI st. — Awakened by a shock at half past four
o'clock : this was the last, and not very violent, but
lasted for nearly a minute.

On the 24th in the evening, we saw a smoke, and
knowing that there were no habitations on this part
of the river, we made towards it, and found it to
be the camp of a few Choctaw Indians, from whom
I purchased a swan, for five balls and five loads
of powder.

25th. — Monsieur Longpre overtook us, and we
encamped together in the evening. He was about
200 miles from us on the night of the 15th, by the
course of the river, where the earthquakes had also
been very terrible. It appeared from his account,
that at New Madrid the shock had been extreme-
ly violent: the greatest part of the houses had been
rendered uninhabitable, although, being construct-
ed of timber, and framed together, they were better
calculated to withstand the shocks than buildings
of brick or stone. The greatest part of the plain
on which the town was situated was become a lake,
and the houses deserted.

SOS

The remainder of our voyage to Natches was
very pleasant, except two very narrow escapes from
planters in the river ; and without any occurrence
that would excite much interest, we arrived at the
port of Natchez on the afternoon of the 5th of
January, and went to the city, which is situated
about three quarters of a mile from the river, on
the level behind the bluffs. The port consists of
thirty or forty houses, and some stores : for the
size of it, there is not, perhaps, in the wcrld a more
dissipated place. Almost all the Kentucky men
stop here on the way to Orleans, and as they now
consider all the dangers and difficulties of their
voyage as past, they feel the same inclination to
dissipation as sailors who have been long out of
port, and generally remain here a day or two to in-
dulge it. I spent a very agreeable evening in the
city, in company with Dr. Brown, whom I found to
be an exceedingly pleasant and intelligent man.

In the morning of the 6th instant I went on
board the steam boat from Pittsburgh ; she had
passed us at the mouth of the Arkansas, 341 miles
above Natchez ; she was a very handsome vessel,
of 410 tons burden, and was impelled by a very
powerful steam engine, also made at Pittsburg,
from whence she had come in less than twenty
days, although 1900 miles distance. About eighty
miles above New Orleans, the sugar plantations

209

commenced, some of which I visited, accompanied
by Mr. Longpre, who assured me that he had not
seen the cane in higher perfection in any part of
the West Indies. Many fields yet remained, from
which the cane had not been got in, and were now
covered with snow, an occurrence, as I was inform-
ed, very uncommon. From this part to New Or-
leans, groves of orange trees of great extent are
seen on both sides of the river, and at this season,
loaded with ripe fruit.

On the 13th we arrived at New Orleans, where
I consigned the lead to the agent of Mr. Drinker,
again met with my friend Brackenridge, and on
the 20th set sail for New York.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX

No. I.

VOCABULARY OF SOME WORDS

IN THE

OSAGE LANGUAGE.

I

Man,

Ne-ka.

Woman,

Wa-ko.

Boy,

Shin-zo shin-ga.

Girl,

She-ma shin-ga.

Young man,

Shen-don-sho.

Young woman,

Kas-ho-me. '

Old man,

Ke-sau-ga hin-ga,

Old woman,

Wa-ko hin-ga.

Head,

Wa-augh-reh.

Nose,

Pa-ge.

Mouth,

E-haugh.

Chin,

La-laugh*

Face,

In-ga.

Throat,

To-ja.

Arm,

Haugh.

214

Hand,

Nom-ba.

Breast,

Mo-in-ga.

Belly,

Che-sa.

Thigh,

Sha-gaugh omba.

Knee,

Se-don-ja.

Leg,

Sha-gaugh.

Calf of Leg.

E-sho.

Shin,

Wa-haugh.

Ancle,

He-ka.

Foot,

See.

Toe,

See-paugh.

Finger,

Sha-ga.

Finger nails,

Sha-ga hugh.

Horse,

fCou-old.

Mare,

Kou-o-la minga.

Colt,

Kou-o-la shin-ga.

Bull,

Shes-ka ton-ga.

Cow,

Shes-ka min-g&.

Buffaloe bull,

Sha tonga.

Ditto cow,

Sha.

Elk, male,

O-pa ton-ga.

Do. female,

O-pa minga.

Deer, male,

Taw ton-ga.

Do. female,

Taw min-ga.

Fawn,

Sha-ra-sha shin-ga.

Bear, male,

Was-saw-ba ton-ga.

Do. female,

Was-saw-ba min-ga,

Wolf,

Sho-ma ca-sa.

Dog,

SJton-ga.

215

Fox,

Mou-shu lo-go-ne.

Cat,

E-gron-ga-sha.

Beaver,

Sha-ba.

Otter,

Tow-non-ja.

Squirrel,

Se-in-ja.

i Rabbit,

Mos-tin-ja.

1 Panther,

E-gron-ga.

Skunk,

Mon-ga.

Rattlesnake,

Sha-kee.

Black snake,

Wait-saw sau-ba.

Frog,

Pa-nis-ka.

Spider,

Shaw-bas-ka.

Turkey cock,

Su-ka ton-ga.

Ditto hen,

Sukd.

Goose,

Me-has-shaw-ba.

Swan,

Me-has-ca.

Dunghill cock,

Su-ka shu-ga ton ga.

IHen,

Su-ka shu-ga.

Crow,

Ka-wa.

I Raven,

Ka-wa ton-ga.

•Hawk,

Was-sa shin-ga ton-ga

Eagle,

Hu-ras-po-sa.

t Vulture,

Ha-ja.

Owl,

Waw-po-ja.

1 Fish,

Hoe.

An American,

Moi-he ton-ga.

An Englishman,

Me-gra-sha.

A Frenchman,

Es-ta-we.

| A Spaniard,

Esh-pa-nuo.

216

Sugar,

Salt,

Tobacco,

Pipe,

Gun,

Cannon,

Pistol,

Gunpowder,

Lead,

Flint,

Powder-horn,

Knife,

Tomahawk,

Axe,

Hoe,

Kettle,

Tin cup,

Saddle,

Hair,

Beads,

Wampum,

Vermillion,

Medal,

Cloth,

Red cloth,

White cloth,

Black cloth, &c. &c.

One,

Two,

Shau-na.

Ne-shu.

No-ne-agh.

No~nem-ba.

WaU'ho-ton.

Wau-ho-ton ton-ga.

Wau~ho-ton-da paugh,

Ne-hu-ja wa-ca-ja.

Mos-sa ma-jos-ca.

Moi-hu-se.

Sha-ka.

Moi-he.

Moi-he sa-pa shinga.

Moi-he shaw-a-ga-sa.

Mon-sa-va.

Sha-ha.

Kes-ne-la-ta.

Hon-ko-gra.

Pa-us-ka.

Hes-ka.

Hes-ka wa-num-pe.

Wa-su-ga.

Ca-ha-ga.

Hau.

Hau shu-ja.

Hau ska.

Hau sau-ba.

Mi-ne-he.

Nom-baugh.

217

Three,

Lau-be-na.

Four,

To-ba.

Five,

Sat~ta.

Six,

Sha-pa.

Seven,

Pa-nom-ba.

Eight,

Ke-lan-baugh*

Nine,

Shan-ka.

Ten

Cra-bra.

Eleven,

Au-gre mi ne-ke.

Twelve,

Au-gre nom-baugh+

Thirteen &c. to twenty,

Augre lau-be-na.

One hundred,

Cra-bra ton-ga.

River,

Nes-ka.

Prairie,

Ton-ja.

Woodland,

Son-ja.

A garrison,

Nau-sa.

Village,

To-wa-ne.

A commanding officer,

Kaw-he-ja wau-ton-ga,

Physician,

Wa-ken-da-ga.

Father,

In-da-ja.

Mother,

E-naugh.

Brother,

fVee-shin-da.

Sister,

Wee-ton-ja.

Uncle,

Ween-ja-kt.

Aunt,

Weeshe-mee*

Brother-in-law,

Wee-ton-ha.

Water,

Nes-nigh.

Ice,

Non-ha.

Snow,

Pau.

P

218

Rain>
Frost,
Winter,

Summer,

Spring,

Autumn,

Hot,

Cold,

Red,

White,

Black,

Blue,

Yellow,

Green,
House,

Door,

Robe,

Blanket,

Mockasons

Leggings,

Soldier,

Large,

Largest*

Small,

Smaller,

Ugly,
Handsome,
Yes,
No,

Nigh-shu.

Pau-shu.

Bor-ra.

To-ja-ton.

Pa-ton.

Ton-da.

Most-cha.

Ne-wat-cha*

Shu-ja.

Ska.

Sau-ba.

To-ha.

Se-a.

Ne-a-ko.

Tee-he.

Tee-he sha-ba*

Mes-co-ba.

Aug-re.

Hom-ba.

He-minca.

Has-ha-ke-da.

Gron-da.

Ton-ga.
Wau-ho-ka.

Shin-ga.

Pe-sha.
Lo-go-ne.
Hoy-a.
Hon-kos-ka.

219

Good,

Lo-go-ne, or Tou-ha.

Bad,

Pe-sha.

President of the Unit

• ) Kow-a-ga Show-a-ga Wa-
j ge-shu.

ed States,

Large man,

Ne-ka she-ga gronda.

Large body of men,

Ne-ka she-ga hugh.

Flock of deer,

Tau-hugh.

Large flock of birds,

Was-sa shin-ga hugh.

Drove of buffaloes,

Sha-to-ga oche.

Scalp,

Ne-shu-ha-du-sa.

Run,

Tau-ne.

Come,

Ku-e-lo.

Togo,

Mo-gre-na.

Kill,

JEs-sa-ra.

Leap,

We-she.

Me,

We-ah.

You,

De-ah.

Day,

Hon-pa.

Night,

He-ne.

Light,

Hon-pa lo-go-ne.

Dark,

He-ne pe-sha.

To part asunder,

We-ta.

To join,

Sho-sho.

To eat,

Wa-num-lra.

To drink,

Ne-bra-ta.

To sleep,

A-shem-bra.

To get up,

Pau-haw.

To walk,

O-ga-sha.

To lie down,

Au-re-con-sha.

22<X

No. II.

ORATION DELIVERED BY THE BIG ELK,

THE CHIEF OF THE MAHA NATION,

OVER THE GRAVE OF THE BLACK BUFFALOE.

CHIEF OF THE TETONS, A TRIBE OF THE SIOUX,

AT THE PORTAGE DES SIOUX,

UthJuhj, 1813.

Do not grieve — misfortunes will happen to the
wisest and best men. Death will come, and al-
ways comes out of season : — it is the command of
the Great Spirit, and all nations and people must
obey. What is passed, and cannot be prevented,
should not be grieved for. Be not discouraged or
displeased then, that in visiting your father here,
you have lost your chief. A misfortune of this
kind may never again befal you, but this would
have attended you perhaps at your own village.
Five times have I visited this land, and never re-
turned with sorrow or pain. Misfortunes do not
flourish particularly in our path — they grow every
where. (Addressing himself to Governor Edwards
and Colonel Miller,) What a misfortune for me
that I could not have died this day, instead of the

221

chief that lies before us. The trifling loss my na-
tion would have sustained in my death, would have
been doubly paid for by the honours of my burial —
they would have wiped off every thing like regret.
Instead of being covered with a cloud of sorrow —
my warriors would have felt the sunshine of joy in
their hearts. To me it would have been a most
glorious occurrence. Hereafter, when I die at
home, instead of a noble grave and a grand proces-
sion, the rolling music and the thundering cannon,
with a flag waving at my head, I shall be wrapped
in a robe, (an old robe perhaps) and hoisted on a
slender scaffold to the whistling winds, soon to be
blown down to the earth — my flesh to be devoured
by the wolves, and my bones rattled on the plain
by the wild beasts. (Addressing himself to Colonel
Miller.) Chief of the soldiers — your labours have
not been in vain : — your attention shall not be for-
gotten. My nation shall know the respect that is
paid over the dead. When I return I will echo
the sound of your guns.

22°2

No. III.

THE FOLLOWING INTERESTING NARRATIVE

OF THE

EXPEDITION OF MR. HUNT,

MENTIONED IN THIS WORK, IS EXTRACTED FROM THE
MISSOURI GAZETTE.

We last week promised our readers an account of
the journey of the gentlemen attached to the New
York Fur Company, from the Pacific Ocean to
this place. — We now lay it before our readers, as
collected from the gentlemen themselves.

On the 28th of June, 1812, Mr. Robert Stew-
art, one of the partners of the Pacific Fur Compa-
ny, with two Frenchmen, Mr. Ramsey Crooks,
and Mr. Robert M'Clellan, left the Pacific Ocean
with despatches for New York.

After ascending the Columbia river ninety miles,
John Day, one of the hunters, became perfectly
insane, and was sent back to the main establish-
ment, 'under the charge of some Indians : the re-

maining six pursued their voyage upwards of six
hundred miles, when they happily met with Mr.
Joseph Miller, on his way to the mouth of the Co-
lumbia. He had been considerably to the south and
east, among the nations called Blackarms and Ara-
pahays, by the latter of whom he was robbed ; in con-
sequence of which he suffered almost every priva-
tion human nature is capable of, and was in a state
of starvation and almost nudity when the party
met him.

They had now fifteen horses, and pursued their
journey for the Atlantic world, without any un-
common accident, until within about two hundred
miles of the Rocky Mountains, where they unfor-
tunately met with a party of the Crow Indians,
who behaved with the most unbounded insolence,
and were solely prevented from cutting off the
party by observing them well armed and constantly
on their guard. They, however, pursued on their
track six days, and finally stole every horse belong-
ing to the party.

Some idea of the situation of those men may be
conceived, when we take into consideration, that
they were now on foot, and had a journey of two
thousand miles before them, fifteen hundred of
which was entirely unknown, as they intended and
prosecuted it considerably south of Messrs. Lewis

211

and Clarke's route. The impossibility of carrying
any quantity of provisions on their backs, in addi-
tion to their ammunition and bedding, will occur at
first view. The danger to be apprehended from
starvation was imminent. They, however, put the
best face upon their prospects, and pursued their
route towards the Rocky Mountains, at the head
waters of the Colorado, or Spanish River, and stood
their course E. S. E. until they struck the head
waters of the great River Platte, which they un-
deviatingly followed to its mouth. It may here be
observed, that this river, for about two hundred
miles, is navigable for a barge; from thence to the
Otto Village, within 45 miles of its entrance into
the Missouri, it is a mere bed of sand, without wa-
ter sufficient to float a skin canoe.

From the Otto Village to St. Louis, the party
performed their voyage in a canoe, furnished them
by the natives, and arrived here in perfect health,
on the 30th of last month (May.)

Our travellers did not hear of the war with Eng-
land until they came to the Ottos. These people
told them, that the Shawnoe Prophet had sent them
a wampum, inviting them to join in the war against
the Americans. They answered the messenger,
that they could make more by trapping beaver
than making war against the Americans.

2Z5

After crossing the hills (Rocky Mountains) they
fell in with a small party of Snake Indians, from
whom they purchased a horse, which relieved them
from any further carriage of food, and this faithful
four-footed companion, performed that service to
the Otto Village. They wintered on the river
Platte, six hundred miles from its mouth.

By information received from these gentlemen,
it appears that a journey across the continent of
North America might be performed with a wag-
gon, there being no obstruction in the whole route
that any person would dare to call a mountain, in
addition to its being much the most direct and short
one to go from this place to the mouth of the Co-
lumbia river. Any future party, who may under-
take this journey, and are tolerably acquainted with
the different places where it would be necessary to
lay up a small stock of provisions, would not be
impeded, as, in all probability, they would not meet
with an Indian to interrupt their progress, although
on the other route, more north, there are almost
insurmountable barriers.

The following is Mr, Crooks* *s narrative of Mr.
Hunts expedition from the Aricaras to the Pacific:

Messrs. Hunt, Crooks, Miller, M'Clellan,
M'Kenzie, and about sixty men, who left St. Louis
in the beginning of March, 18U, for the Pacific

2<26

Ocean, reached the Aricara village on the 13th day
of June, where meeting with some American
hunters, who had been the preceding year on the
waters of the Columbia with Mr. Henry, and who,
giving such an account of the route by which they
passed, as being far preferable in point of procur-
ing with facility an abundant supply of food at all
times, as well as avoiding even the probability of
seeing their enemies, the Black Feet, than by the
track of Captains Lewis and Clarke, the gentle-
men of the expedition at once abandoned their
former ideas of passing by the Falls of the Mis-
souri, and made the necessary arrangements for
commencing their journey over land from this
place.

Eighty horses were purchased and equipped by
the 17th of July, and on the day following they de-
parted from the Aricaras, sixty persons in number,
all on foot, except the partners of the company. —
In this situation they proceeded for five days, hav-
ing crossed, in that time, two considerable streams,
which joined the Missouri below the Aricaras,
when, finding an inland tribe of Indians, calling
themselves Shawhays, but known among the whites
by the appellation of Chiennes, they procured from
these an accession of forty horses, which enabled
the gentlemen to furnish a horse for every two
men. Steering about W. S. W. they passed the
small branches of Big River, the Little Missouri,

above its forks, and several of the tributary streams
of Powder River, one of which they followed up.
They found a band of the Absaroka, or Crow na-
tion, encamped on its banks, at the foot of the Big
Horn Mountain.

For ammunition and some small articles, they
exchanged all their lame for sound horses, with
these savages; but although that this band has
been allowed by every one who knew them, to be,
by far, the best behaved of their tribe, it was only
by that unalterable determination of the gentle-
men to avoid jeopardizing the safety of the party,
without, at the same moment, submitting to in-
tentional insults, that they left this camp (not
possessing a greater force than the whites) without
coming to blows.

The distance from the Aricaras to this mountain,
is about 450 miles, over an extremely rugged
tract, by no means furnishing a sufficient supply
of water : but during the twenty-eight days they
were getting to the base of the mountain, they
were only in a few instances without abundance
of buffalo e meat.

Three days took them over the plains of Mad
River, (the name given to the Big Horn above this
mountain) which following for a number of days,
they left it where it was reduced to eighty yards in

22S

width, and the same evening reached the banks of
the Colorada, or Spanish River. Finding flocks
of buffaloe at the end of the third day's travel on
this stream, the party passed a week in drying buf-
faloe meat, for the residue of the voyage, as in all
probability those were the last animals of the kind
they would meet with. From this camp, in one
day, they crossed the Dividing Mountain, and
pitched their tents on Hoback's Fork of Mad Ri-
ver, where it was near 150 feet broad ; and in
eight days more, having passed several stupendous
ridges, they encamped in the vicinity of the estab-
lishment made by Mr. Henry, in the fall of 1810,
on a fork about seventy yards wide, bearing the
name of that gentleman : having travelled from
the main Missouri, about 900 miles, in fifty-four
days. Here, abandoning their horses, the party
constructed canoes, and descended the Snake, or
Ky-eye-nem River, (made by the junction of Mad
River, south of Henry's Fork) 400 miles ; in the
course of which they were obliged, by the inter-
vention of impassable rapids, to make a number of
portages ; till at length they found the river con-
fined between gloomy precipices, at least 200 feet
perpendicular, whose banks for the most part were
washed by this turbulent stream, which for thirty
miles was a continual succession of falls, cascades,
and rapids. Mr. Crooks' canoe had split and up-
set in the middle of a rapid, by which one man was

$29

drowned, named Antonie Clappin, and Mr. Crooks
saved himself only by extreme exertion in swim-
ing. From the repeated losses by the upsetting
of canoes, their provisions were now reduced to a
bare sufficiency for five days, totally ignorant of
the country where they were, and unsuccessful in
meeting any of the nations from whom they could
hope for information.

Unable to proceed by water, Messrs. M'Kenzie,
M'Clellan, and Reed set out in different directions
down the river, for the purpose of finding Indians,
and buying horses. Mr. Crooks, with a few men,
returned to Henry's Fork for those they had left,
while Mr. Hunt remained with the main body of
men, entrapping beaver for their support. Mr.
Crooks, finding the distance much greater by land
than he had contemplated, returned at the end of
three days ; where waiting five more, expecting
relief from below, the near approach of winter
made them determine on depositing all superfluous
articles, and proceeding on foot. Accordingly, on
the 10th of November, Messrs. Hunt and Crooks
set out, each with eighteen men ; one party on the
south side of the river. Mr. Hunt was fortunate
in finding Indians, with abundance of salmon, and
some horses; but Mr. Crooks saw but few, and
in general too miserably poor to afford his party
assistance. Thirteen days brought the latter to a

230

high range of mountains, through which the river
forced a passage, and the banks being their only
guide, they still, by climbing over points of rocky
ridges projecting into the stream, kept as near to
it as possible, till in the evening of the 3d of De-
cember, impassable precipices, of immense height,
put an end to all hopes of following the margin of
this water course, which here was no more than
forty yards wide, ran with incredible velocity, and
was withal so foamingly tumultuous, that even had
the opposite bank been fit for their purpose, at-
tempts at rafting would have been perfect mad-
ness, as they could only have the inducement of
ending, in a watery grave, a series of hardships
and privations, to which the most hardy and deter-
mined of the human race must have found him-
self inadequate. They attempted to climb the
mountains, still bent on pushing on, but after as-
cending for half a day, they discovered to their
sorrow, that they were not half way to the summit,
and the snow already too deep for men in their
emaciated state to proceed further.

Regaining the river bank, they returned up, and
on the third day met with Mr. Hunt and party,
with one horse, proceeding downwards. A canoe
was soon made of a horse hide, and in it they trans-
ported some meat, which they could spare, to Mr.
Crooks' starving followers, who, for the first eighteen

231

days, after leaving the place of deposit, had sub-
sisted on half a meal in twenty-four hours, and in
the last nine days had eaten only one beaver, a dog,
a few wild cherries, and some old mockason soles»
having travelled, during these twenty-seven days*
at least five hundred and fifty miles. For the next
four days, both parties continued their course up
the river, without any other support than what little
rose-buds and cherries they could find ; but here
they luckily fell in with some Snake Indians, from
whom they got five horses, giving them three guns
and some other articles for the same.

Starvation had bereft J. B. Provost of his senses
entirely, and on seeing the horse flesh on the oppo-
site side of the river, he was so agitated in crossing in
a skin canoe, that he upset it, and was unfortunately
drowned. From hence Mr. Hunt went on to a
camp of Shoshonies, about ninety miles above, where
procuring a few horses and a guide, he set out for
the main Columbia, across the mountains of the
south west, leaving the river where it entered the
range, and on it Mr. Crooks and five men, unable
to travel. Mr. Hunt lost a Canadian, named Carrier,
by starvation, before he met the Shy-eye-to-ga In-
dians in the Columbia plains J from whom, getting
a supply of provisions, he soon reached the main
river, which he descended in canoes, and arrived

232

without any further loss at Astoria in the month
of February.

Messrs. M'Kenzie, McClelland, and Reed, had
united their parties on the Snake River Moun-
tains, through which they travelled twenty-one
days, to the Mulpot River, subsisting on an allow-
ance by no means adequate to the toils they under-
went daily ; and to the smallness of their number
(which was in all eleven) they attribute their success
in getting with life to where they found some wild
horses. They soon after reached the Forks, called by
Captains Lewis and Clarke, Koolkooske; went down
Lewis's River and the Columbia wholly by water,
without any misfortune except the upsetting, in a
rapid, of Mr. M'Clelland's canoe; and although it
happened on the first day of the year, yet, by great
exertion, they clang to the canoe till the others
came to their assistance, making their escape with
the loss of some rifles. They reached Astoria early
in January,

Three of the five men who remained with Mr.
Crooks, afraid of perishing by want, left him in
February, on a small river on the road, by which
Mr. Hunt had passed, in quest of Indians, and
have not since been heard of. Mr. Crooks had
followed Mr. Hunt's track in the snow for seven
days; but coming to a low prairie, he lost every ap*

233

pearance of a trace, and was compelled to pass the
remaining part of winter in mountains, subsisting
sometimes on beaver and horse meat, and their
skins, and at others on their success in finding roots.
Finally, on the last of March, the other only Ca-
nadian being unable to proceed, was left with a
lodge of Shoshonies, and Mr. Crooks, with John
Day, finding the snow sufficiently diminished, un-
dertook, from Indian information, to cross the last
ridge, which they happily effected, and reached
the banks of the Columbia in the middle of April ;
where, in the beginning of May, they fell in with
Messrs. Stewart and Co. having been, a few days
before, stripped of every thing they possessed by
a band of villains near the Falls. On the 10th of
May they arrived safe at Astoria, the principal
establishment of the Pacific Fur Company, within
fourteen miles of Cape Disappointment.*

* This establishment has since been broken up.

234

DESCRIPTION

OF THB

MISSOURI TERRITORY.

1 he Missouri Territory is bounded by the state of
Louisiana on the south, the Mississippi on the east,
the British Territory on the north, and by the Rocky
Mountains and Mexico on the west. It was first
discovered by Sebastian Cabot, in the year 1497,
and in the year 1512 it was visited by John Pontio
de Leon, a Spaniard, who attempted to form a set-
tlement. In 1684, Monsieur de la Salle, a French-
man, discovered the mouth of the Mississippi, and
built Fort Louis ; but being assassinated, it was
again abandoned. In the year 1698, Captain Ib-
berville sailed up the Mississippi, formed a settle-
ment, and named the country Louisiana. About
twenty-two years afterwards Monsieur de la Sueur
also sailed up the Mississippi, and proceeded to the
distance of 2280 miles from its mouth*

235

In I762 France ceded it to Spain by a secret
treaty, and a small force was sent to take posses-
sion ; but the inhabitants not having been officially
made acquainted with the cession, refused to sub-
mit to the dominion of that power. Some time
afterwards the Spanish government commissioned
a man named O'Reilly, at the head of 3000 men,
who took possession of it, and from motives of re-
venge, put several of the principal inhabitants to
death. In 1800, 1801, Spain ceded it back to
France, and by a treaty of April 30th, 1803, the
French government sold it to the United States for
the sum of fifteen millions of dollars, payable in
fifteen years, at one million annually. The extent
of country purchased for this sum is not yet known
with any considerable degree of accuracy, but is
calculated to contain at least 1,026,312 square
miles, or 656,839,680 acres, and it must be remem-
bered that for this sum not only the political domi-
nion, but the reversionary property in the land, was
purchased. If we suppose the money to apply to
the purchase of the land only, the cost will fall
short of l£J. per acre, or £3, 6s. 8d. sterling per
square mile, without one drop of blood being
shed.*

* By the most accurate calculation, the surface of the globe
contains 198,976,786 square miles, one-fifth of which only is
land, or 39,795,357 square miles, the value of which is

«3

230

The Mississippi receives the water furnished by
almost the whole of this area, and as the extent of
country from which it derives its water is pretty
accurately known, I shall state it, that an adequate
idea may be formed of that mighty river ; but I
will previously observe that the name is of Tndian
origin, and signifies " The mother of the waters."

From the extremity of the most eastern branch
to that of the most western, it is 1680 miles in a
direct line ; and from the commencement of the
most northerly to its mouth, is 1650, also in a direct
line.

Amongst the immense advantages which the
United States will derive from the purchase of
Louisiana, the possession of this river is one of the
greatest. The whole territory of the United States
is 1,20.5,635,840 acres. The following table will
show that the area dependent on the Mississippi for
a communication with the ocean, is 1,344,779
square miles, or 860,658,560 acres. The whole
empire of China is only estimated at 800,000,000
of acres !

£132,(i51,190 sterling, at £3, 6s. Sd. per square mile ; from
whence it appears that at this price the cost of seven worlds, as
large as this we inhabit, would be only £928,558,330 ! ! ! Should
any one doubt the wisdom of Mr. Jefferson, after being acquaint-
ed with this fact, let him enter into a calculation of the expences
incurred in the old mode of acquiring territory by the sword. He
will soon convince himself that this is a very much improved plan,

237

The area of the states or territories, or of the
portions of such as contribute to the waters of this
river are as follow : —

Sqr. Miles.

Missouri Territory, 985,250

North-West Territory, |, 53,415

Illinois Territory (the whole), 52,000

Indiana State, -i£, 37,050

Ohio State, $, 35,088

Pennsylvania, -|, 16.493

New York, T^, 521

Maryland, T^, 140

Virginia, f , 28,200

Kentucky (the whole), 40,110

Tennessee (ditto) , 43,200

Mississippi Territory, J, 29,560

State of Orleans, |, 20,500

Georgia, 7V> 2,000

North Carolina, TV» M00

South Carolina, t|q, 152

Square miles, 1 ,344,779

This area is nearly twenty-eight times the extent
of England and Wales, and eleven times that of the
whole of Great Britain and Ireland.

Mr. Mellish enters into a calculation of the
quantity of water discharged by this river at its
mean height ; but notwithstanding his usual accu-
racy, I think he has erred in this case, by taking a

238

wrong data. In the first place, he has made his
estimate of the magnitude of the river by consider-
ing it at its mouth, without taking into account the
great number of bayoux that have previously issued
from it. Even at Orleans its magnitude is much
diminished. Amongst other bayoux that take wa-
ter from this river above that city, are bayou Chif-
Jalie, bayou Tunica, bayou Manchac, La Fourche,
and Placq mines. In other places any of these five
bayoux would be considered as a great river ; but
here a comparison with their vast parent destroys
their consequence. It is singular that the Missis-
sippi maintains its full magnitude only for the
length of three miles. At that distance from the
mouth of Red River issues bayou Chifralie.

The second error consists in not allowing suffi-
cient depth to the river. He assumes forty feet as
the average depth from Orleans to the mouth,
whereas it is well known tlaat at that city the depth
is sixty fathoms, or 360 feet, and in no part from
thence to the bar at its mouth is it less than thirteen
fathoms, or 78 feet. But although he has assumed
the dimensions of the river at too lfttle, he has err-
ed greatly in the calculation founded thereon, by
making the discharge of water five times more than
his own data will produce. He considers the river
at two miles in breadth, forty feet in depth, and to
run four miles per hour. This gives, he says,

239

94,000,000 of gallons per second, whereas it is on-
ly 18,L37,3L25 gallons. Perhaps about 60,000,000
of gallons per second, at a mean state betwixt Red
River and bayou Chiffalie, may not be far from the
true quantity.

The territory west of the Mississippi belonging to
the United States, and extending from that river to
the rocky mountains has evidently two characters,
so distinct, as regards the external appearance, that
they cannot justly be inclosed in one general descrip-
tion. The part which lies immediately on the Missis-
sippi, and extends from 100 to 250 miles westward
from that river, has a thin covering of timber, consist-
ing of clumps and of scattered trees. From the west-
ern limits of this region to the Rocky Mountains, the
whole is one vast prairie or meadow, and, except-
ing on the alluvion of the rivers, and, in a few in-
stances, on the side^ of the small hills, is entirely
divested of trees or shrubs. The extent of this
region is not accurately known, on account of the
real situation of the Rocky Mountains not yet be-
ing truly ascertained ; but it appears from the ac-
count of hunters and travellers, that in some of our
best maps and globes they are laid down consider-
ably too far to the eastward. The course of the
Mississippi is nearly from north to south, and its
average longitude nearly 90 degrees west. The
coast of the Pacific, in the medium latitude of the

21-0

Mississippi from its source to its mouth, is about
130 degrees west, a difference of 40 degrees, mak-
ing in that latitude the distance from the Missis-
sippi to the Pacific to be $124 miles. It is the -opi-
nion of all whom I have consulted, and who have
crossed the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, that
from the eastern limits of that chain to the Missis-
sippi, the distance is at least twice as great as from
the western limit to the Pacific.* If this is admit-
ted to be correct, the distance from the summit of
the Rocky Mountains to the Mississippi is 1416
miles, from which if 1,50 be subtracted for the half
breadth of the chain, and 200 for the woody region
on the Mississippi, the breadth of the prairie will
appear to be 1066 miles, and its length, from north
to south is at least 18 degrees of latitude, or 1251
miles.

Excepting towards the foot of the Rocky Moun-
tains, the whole of this extent is what is usually
termed a plain, being destitute of those elevations
that* in other parts appear to have resulted from
convulsions. But although the general surface
corresponds almost exactly with the convexity of
the earth, the agency of water has produced innu-
merable shallow valleys ; and of the elevated places

* Mr. Mellish asserts that one branch of the Missouri rises
within 450 miles of the Pacific Ocean.

eii

which separate them, those termed dividing ridges*
are the highest. From the top of any of these
ridges the limits of the visible horizon are as ex-
actly defined, and the view as extensive as at sea,
the undulations on the surface of the earth here
bearing no greater proportion in the scale than the
waves of an agitated ocean. The deviation from
the true curvature of the earth is much greater on
the approach to the Rocky Mountains. This gives
an increased velocity to the currents of water, and
produces a more powerful attrition on their beds.
The consequence is, the valleys in that part are
deeper, and the surface more rugged and broken.

Several geological facts tend to prove that this
portion of the globe has been peculiarly exempted
from the operation of local and disorganizing con-
vulsions, and that it has remained for a vast length
of time in its present state. The most prominent
of these facts is the undisturbed uniformity of the
strata, and their general parallelism to the surface
of the earth, as exemplified in the vast stratum of
iron ore on the Missouri, and in the limestone
rocks, wherever they occur. The depth and ex-
tent of the valleys of the river, together with the
peculiar formation of the hills, tend to confirm the
opinion, that whatever changes have taken place

* See note in page GO.

242

on the surface have been effected by the operations
of a slow, but continually acting cause.

Some of the mineral deposits are of wonderful
extent. Of these the deposit of salt on the Ar-
kansas river is the most remarkable. So little of
this is yet known, that an adequate idea of its mag-
nitude can only be formed by taking into view the
number of rivers constantly impregnated by it, and
the extent of country from which they derive their
sources. The most southerly of the salt rivers that
rise in the region, containing this salt deposit, is a
branch of Red River, called by the Indians Ba-ha-
cha-ha, and by the French Fouxoacheta. It is a
considerable stream, and salt rock is found on its
banks. No fewer than three salt rivers or streams
flow into the Arkansas, the least of which is fifty
yards in breadth : another is seventy-five, and the
largest is 150 yards wide. This last is called by
the Osages New-sexv-ke tonga, which signifies in
their language, " The largest salt river." These
streams all rise in the same region, as also does a
branch of the Canadian Fork of the Arkansas, ano-
ther large river mentioned by Mr. Pike, the name
of which he writes Ne-sout-che-bra-ra, which name
indicates that either the water is salt, or that salt is
found in the neighbourhood.*

* As the whole of this region is the property of the Osage
Indians, it may justly be inferred that all the names of the rivers

£43

It appears that this salt deposit passes under the
Arkansas to the north west, and impregnates two
branches of the Kanzas river of the Missouri, both
of considerable magnitude. There are several salt
deposits on this globe, of vast extent ; but perhaps
when this deposit becomes better ascertained, it
will be found inferior to none in point of magni-
tude ; for if its continuity in one bod}' is a fact,
the area it covers must amount to several thousand
square miles.*

It is worthy of notice that gypsum and clay are
found abounding with the salt of this deposit, and
that in this instance, as well as in many others, the
substances which are concomitant with each other

have originated with them. It is evident that Pike wrote the
name from hearing- the pronunciation, as the Indians do not
write ; and had he attended to the derivation in this instance, he
would have followed the same orthography as in the former, both
being derived from ne-shu, or neiv-sew (salt), and nes-ka, or
; nes-ke (river). He would then have written it Neiv-sew-ke-
Ira-ra.

* Mr. Sibly says the extent of this salt region is 75 miles
square, which gives an area of 5625 square miles. Of the de-
gree to which the water of these salt rivers is saturated, some
idea may be formed when it is stated, that in the dry seasons
the water of the Arkansas and Red Rivers are rendered very
brackish by them. It appears also that it is the overflowing of
one of these salt rivers that fills the Great Lake, which is eva-
porated every summer, and leaves the encrustation mentioned in
page 186.

244

on this continent, correspond with the order ob-
served in other parts of the world. Salt springs
are very abundant in other parts west of the Mis-
sissippi. The body of iron ore on the Missouri is
another instance of the magnitude of mineral depo-
sits in this country. Some account of it may be
seen in page 81.

From the accounts of hunters, the various in-
dications of coal, and its frequent appearance, we
may justly conclude that no portion of the earth
is more abundant in that useful mineral than this
region. It appears in various parts, at the foot of
the bluffs of the Missouri. On the Osage River,
a bed of very great, but unknown thickness, shews
itself. On Red River it comes to the surface in
several places, and the hunters speak of it as be-
ing one of the most common substances on the
Little Missouri, and the Roche Jaune Rivers.

The existence of silver ore about the head of
the Arkansas and Red River is believed by the
inhabitants of Upper Louisiana, and various ac-
counts are current amongst them of its having
been discovered there by hunters. As those rivers
rise in the range of mountains in which the mines
of Santa Fe are situated, and not far distant from
them, the account is probable ; but the frequent
occurrence of pyrites in America, the deceptive

245

appearance of that substance, and the inability of
men so little acquainted with mineralogy to discri-
minate, should induce great caution in admitting
the fact*

The part lying betwixt this vast meadow and
the Mississippi river, it has already been stated, is
of a different character as regards the external ap-
pearance of the country. rI his difference is not
confined to the presence of trees in that part ; the
surface of the country having also a different as-
pect. The numerous rivers falling into the Mis-
sissippi in this region, together with their various
ramifications, run in deep and comparatively nar-
row valleys, wrhich gives to this country a very un-
even appearance. This is a necessary consequence

* In the interior of America, specimens of pyrites have been
often shewn to me as the ore of silver or gold, and I have fre-
quently found it an unpleasant task to undeceive those who were
in possession of them, as they were persuaded that they had
made a valuable discovery.

Immediately after I left the mouth of the Kenhawa river, I
was followed to Galliopolis by a Quaker of the name of Kenzie,
who shewed me some specimens of whitish pyrites, which he
said was silver ore, and offered me a considerable sum of money
if 1 would instruct him in the method of separating the metal,
I attempted to undeceive him, but he became angry, and inti-
mated that he knew the value of the mine too well to be taken
in that way, and that it was no uncommon thing for English-
men to discourage the working of mines in America, that they
might get hold of them for themselves.

Q13

to the number of small rivers that fall immediately
into the great trunk of the Mississippi. The general
level of its bed, is at least 150 or 200 feet below
that of the surrounding country. This gives a fall
of that extent to the minor streams, besides that
which is occasioned by the natural declivity of the
country, and, of course, causes an increased velol
city, and consequently a more powerful action on
their beds : the effect extends to the smallest of
the collateral branches. But although this por-
tion differs so much from the other in its external
appearance, still there are good reasons for think-1
ing that they differ but little in their subterranean
conformation, as many instances occur to prove,
that although the surface is much more broken
and uneven, it is entirely owing to the more pow-
erful action of the streams. The frequent in-
stances of thin horizontal strata of limestone rock
appearing on both sides of a valley, corresponding
in all the circumstances of elevation, thickness,
and their component parts, prove that the hills
have not been formed by convulsions.

With a few exceptions only, of isolated sand-
stone rock, the whole of this portion of the Missouri
territory that I have seen is calcareous ; the
rocks being of a whitish limestone, containing or-
ganic remains in abundance, consisting of the
casts of Entrochii, Anomice, &c. In this particular,

247

an exception must be made to the rock forming
the matrix of the lead in the mine region. In this
rock I could not find any trace of organic re-
mains whatever*

When the subterranean geography of this coun-
try shall become better known,, it will probably be
found to be one of the most interesting in the world.
Besides the evidence furnished by the caves known
to exist in the incumbent rock, there are other
facts tending to prove, that, beneath the surface,
there are a great many others, and of vast extent.
A considerable number of the minor streams are
entirely lost under ground, except in time of
floods, and no place where they re-appear can be
traced out. The Merrimac and Gasconade rivers
have eacli a spring rising in their bed, either of
which would be sufficient of itself to form a
considerable river ; and about 300 miles S. S. W.
of St. Louis, there is a branch of White River,
composed entirely of one spring, so copious, that I
am credibly informed a boat of thirty or forty
tons burthen might sail to the source.

In many parts of this country, there are great
numbers of what the inhabitants call " sink holes."
These are all of the same form, but differ in magni-
tude, some not being more than thirty yards in
diameter at the top ; others exceed two hundred.

248

They are circular, but diminish towards the bot-
tom, and resemble an inverted hollow cone : some
of the large ones are so deep, that tall trees, grow-
ing at the bottom, cannot be seen until we ap-
proach the brink of the cavity. I have examined
many of these sink holes, and in several have
heard the noise of water, as of a considerable
stream, running below the bottom of the cavity.
In others, the subterranean stream is visible, and
affords evidence that it has caused the cavity, by
carrying away the incumbent earth which has
fallen in from time to time.

The abundance of nitre, generated in the caves
of this country, is a circumstance which ought not
to be passed over unnoticed. These caves are
always in the limestone rocks ; and in those which
produce the nitre, the bottom is covered with
earth, which is strongly impregnated with it, and
visible in needle-form crystals. In order to obtain
the nitre, the earth is collected and lixiviated : the
water, after being saturated, is boiled down, and
suffered to stand till the crystals are formed. In
this manner, it is no uncommon thing for three
men to make 100 lbs. of salt-petre in one day. As
these caves may probably have been the resort of
wild animals in former times, the accumulation of
nitre, in the first instance, is not surprising ; but
that the earth, on being again spread on the boi>

249

torn of the cave, should be re-impregnated- in the
space of four or five years, is not so easily account-
ed for : that this is a fact, many who have been
employed in making salt-petre, have assured me.
In the spring of 1810, James M 'Donald of Bon-
homme, and his two sons, went to some caves on
the Gasconade River to make salt-petre, and in a
few weeks returned with 3,000 lbs. to St. Louis.

It is very probable that coal is here in great
abundance. About four miles west of St. Louis, a
vein, from twelve to "eighteen inches in thickness,
breaks out at the edge of a creek, and is used by
the blacksmiths. In the year 1810, the grass of
the prairie on the American Bottom, in the Illinois
Territory, took fire, and kindled the dry stump of
a tree, about five miles east of St. Louis : this
stump set fire to a fine bed of coal on which it
stood, and the coal continued to burn for several
months, until the earth fell in and extinguished it.
This bed breaks out at the bottom of the bluffs of
the Mississippi, and is about five feet in thickness :
I visited the place, and by examining the indica-
tions, found the same vein at the surface several
miles distant. Near the village of St. Ferdinand,
on the edge of the Missouri, the bank is one solid
bed of fine coal, of unknown thickness, but cer-
tainly more than twenty feet : this bed is called
by the French La Charbonniere.

R

25(3

The Lead Mines of St. Genevieve* occupy an
extent of country, the limits of which have not
yet been ascertained: they commence about thirty
miles west of the Mississippi, and extend west
and north west. That which more particular-
ly indicates the existence of lead, is a redness
of the soil, which appears to result from the de-
composition of an haematitic iron ore, found there
in great abundance, intermixed with pyrites, and
in some of its states exhibiting evident proofs
of being a transition from that substance. The
indications are still stronger, if this earth con-
tains sulphate of barytes, crystalized carbonate of
lime, and aggregated crystals of quartz. All these
are in some parts very abundant, and generally of

* It was the discovery of these lead mines that gave rise to
the famous Mississippi scheme, projected by Law in 1719, which
ruined hundreds of families in France. It was then supposed
that it was a silver mine ; and although the bubble burst imme-
diately, it is surprising that Du Pratz, who wrote thirty-nine
years afterwards, should still persist in the error. He not only
lays down a silver mine on the Marameg in his map of Louisiana,
but mentions it in his description. The Marameg is now called
the Merramac, on a branch of which, called the Negro Fork,
the mines of St. Genevieve are situated. Du Pratz says, " The
mine of Marameg, which is silver, is pretty near the confluence
of the river which gives it name ; which is a great advantage to
those who would work it, because they might easily, by that
means, have their goods from Europe. It is situate about five
hundred leagues from the sea."

251

a red colour,, probably occasioned by the oxyde of
iron contained in the soil.

These mines have been worked since about the
year 17&5, and until of late the ore has not been
sought for in the rock, but has been found in the
earth in detached lumps, intermixed with the
substances mentioned above. The workmen em-
ployed, have no other implements than a pick-axe
and a wooden shovel, and when at work, appear
as if employed in making tan pits, rather than in
mining. When they come to the rock, or to such
a depth that it is no longer convenient to throw
the dirt out of the hole, they quit, and perhaps
commence a new digging, as they term it,
within a few feet of that which they have previ-
ously abandoned. Each digger works separately
for himself, and sells the ore to the proprietor of
the soil, at two dollars per 100 lbs. It is evident
from the nature of the employment, that the
gain to the diggers must be very precarious, but
in general they appear to live comfortably. They
are almost all Creole French who are employed,
and if I may judge from a single instance, retain
as much fondness for showy dress as the most
foppish of their ancestors.*

* On a Saturday evening I arrived at the mine Belle Fon-
taine, and employed myself until night in examining- the sub-

R 2

Z5C2

The proprietors who buy the ore, cause it to be
smelted in furnaces constructed of two parallel
walls, one about eight, the other four feet high,
and three and a half asunder : these are joined by
two sloping side walls, and into this inclosed area
the fuel and ore are thrown. In this way, they
obtain from sixty to seventy per cent, of lead : the
ore is said to contain eighty.

The mines belong to a number of proprietors :
they are mostly held by grants from the Spanish
governors formerly residing at St. Louis, and are
worked with more or less spirit, as the ore hap-
pens to be abundant or otherwise, as the workmen
quit one digging without ceremony, when they
hear of better success at another. The profits of
the proprietors are commensurate with the quan-
tity of ore raised on their property : therefore,
when the diggings become less productive than
usual, they make trials on different parts of their
land, to discover where the ore is more abundant,
that the diggers may be induced to remain with
them. These trials consist in nothing more than

stances thrown out by the diggers, and found the most interest-
ing specimens amongst the refuse of one man, who, on that ac-
count, I particularly noticed. On the following morning I met
him in the village, dressed in a white gown, with red slippers,
and a blue silk waistcoat, embroidered with silver lace.

253

digging a hole in some part of the woods, to the
depth of three or four feet, and judging by the
quantity of ore (Galena) what degree of success
may be expected.

A little time before I visited Richwood Mines,
the property of Monsieur Lebaume, of St. Louis,
he had made forty trials, by simply digging holes,
not more than four feet deep, in places remote
from each other, on his land. In thirty-eight of
these he found ore, and from one hole more than
half a cwt. was raised. This gentleman owns a
square league.

As soon as any particular district is found so
abundant as to warrant a furnace to be erected
near it, they give it a name. Whilst I was at St.
Louis, one of these places was discovered, and
named Mine au Shibboleth, from which, I was cre-
dibly informed, four millions of pounds weight of
ore was raised in this manner in one summer.
The diggings which I visited were Mine au Bur-
ton, Mine Belle Fontaine, Richwood Mines, Old
Diggings, New Diggings, and Elliot's Diggings.
Some of these diggings are ten or twelve miles
distant from each other. Mine la Motte, on the
waters of the river St. Francis, is thirty or forty
miles south of all the rest. Some of these mines
have fallen into the hands of Americans, who have

25 1

ventured to penetrate the rock, which is always
found at a depth of from six to twelve feet below
the surface, and have been amply rewarded for
their enterprize.

I remained a few days with Mr. Elliot, who at
that time had only just commenced on the rock,
but had the most promising prospects of success.
He had raised a considerable quantity of ore, and
many tons of blende, and with the last had repaired
the road to his works, not knowing what substance
it was. Mr. Moses Austin, proprietor of Mine
an Burton, had been very successful, having found
large masses of ore in the caves of the rock into
which he had penetrated.

At the New Diggings a great deal had been
raised out of the rock, and a considerable quantity
was lying on the bank in very large lumps.
When I visited that place, they were impeded by
water, and had no better means of getting rid of
it, than those which buckets, raised by a windlass,
afforded. I was prevented from descending by
the quantity of water then in the mine.

Although the district of country which contains
the present diggings, is considered as comprising
the mines, I am of opinion that the lead extends
to a very great distance beyond those limits. I

255

have seen all the indications on the upper part of
the Merrimac River, fifty or sixty miles west of
the present workings, and still farther to the
northward, at the mouth of the Gasconade, on
the Missouri. It is supposed by some that it
extends to the mines belonging to the Saukee
and Fox nations of Indians, which are situated on
the Mississippi, six hundred miles above St.
Louis. — These mines are known to extend over a
space of eighty miles in length, and nine miles
in breadth.*

* These mines are of great value to the Saukee and Fox na-
tions. As the game on the lands which they claim is nearly des-
troyed, they have therefore been compelled to commence the bu-
siness of mining-, or rather digging1. The ore is raised by the
men, but the operation of smelting is done by the squaws. The
method by which they extract the metal was described to me by
Mr. Prior, who was of Messrs. Lewis and Clarke's party, and
who traded with these Indians for lead. They first dug a deep
cavity in the ground, near a perpendicular bank of the Missis-
sippi, and from the face of the bank make an horizontal hole
to meet the bottom of it: A quantity of dry wood is then thrown
into the cavity, and set fire to, after which the ore is thrown in,
and the supply of both continued. The metal runs out at tire
.horizontal opening, and is received in holes made by the Indi-
ans with their heels in the sand of the river. In this state it
is bought by the traders from St. Louis, who afterwards cast it
into pigs in their own moulds. Formerly, these Indians gave
permission to a person of the name of Dubuque to dig lead : he
resided at their village, being much respected by them, and ac-
quired some property, the management of which, after his death,

Q56

Some of the isolated sand-stone rocks in this
territory, alluded to, are remarkable for their pu-
rity, being so white as to exactly resemble the
purest lump sugar. These would furnish an ex-
cellent material for the manufacture of glass.

About five miles west of Herculaneum, which
is situated on the Mississippi, thirty miles below
St. Louis, there is a limestone rock, about a quar-

fell into the hands of Augustus Choutou, of St. Louis, who, in
1810, advertised for sale Dubuque's property in the mines, or
his right of digging lead. It was bought by Colonel Smith, the
proprietor of Mine Belle Fontaine, and Mr. Moorhead of St.
Louis, for about ."3000 dollars. They ascended the Mississippi
with an armed party, to take possession, but were very roughly
handled by the Indians, and happy in having escaped with their
lives. The Indians immediately afterwards called a council, and
b<in<r fearful of giving offence to the American government, they
sent deputies to St. Louis, to plead their cause before Governor
Howard and General Clarke, who performed their mission with
great ability; first disclaiming any intention to continue the
grant beyond the life of Dubuque, and, secondly, any wish to
offend the government of the United States, by driving away
Smith and Moorhead. They next stated, that when the Great
Spirit gave the land to the Red Men, their ancestors, he fore-
saw that the White Men would come into the country, and that
the game would be destroyed ; therefore, out of his great good-
ness, he put lead into the ground, that they, their wives and
children, might continue to exist : they lastly appealed to the
justice of Jheir Great Father, the President of the United
States. Governor Howard and General Clarke approved of their
conduct, and assured them of the protection of the government.

'257

ter of a *nile in length, and in some parts forty
or fifty feet high. This rock is so completely per-
forated in almost every part, as to resemble a ho-
neycomb,, and the perforations are from one-eighth
to three quarters of an inch in diameter. It has
exactly the appearance of marine rocks, perforated
by Mytilus Hthophagus, or Rugosus.

Fossil bones have been dug up in various places
in Upper Louisiana. At a salt lick, about three
miles from the Merrimac river, and twelve from
St. Louis, several bones have been discovered, evi-
dently belonging to the same species of mammoth
as those found on the Ohio, and in Orange County,
State of New York. I have frequently been in-
formed of a place on Osage river, where there are
abundance of bones, of great magnitude. Gene-
ral Clarke shewed me a tooth brought from the in-
terior : it was a grinder, and belonged to the ani-
mal mentioned by Cuvier, called by him Masto-
donte Avec dents carves.

The general character of this country is that
of prairie, with scattered trees, and interspersed
clumps. On the summits of the ridges, the tim-
ber is generally red cedar, (Juniperus virginiana)
on the prairie, post oak, (Quercus obtusiloba) black
jack, (Quercus nigra J black walnut, (Juglans
nigra) and shell bark hickory, (Juglans squamosa.)

£58

The alluvion of the rivers contain a greater variety,
of which the principal are — cotton wood, (Populus
angidosa) sycamore, (Platanus occidentals) over-
cup oak, (Quercus macrocarpa) nettle tree, or
hackberry, (Celtis crassi folia) hoop ash, (Celtis
occidentalis) honey locust, (Gleditsia triacanthos)
black locust, (Robinia pseudacacia) coffee tree,
(Guilandina dioica) peccan, (Juglans olivccformis )
and many of the trees common in the states east of
the Alleghanies.*

The soil is generally excellent, being for the
most part black loam, and is tilled without much
trouble.

The climate is very fine: the spring commences
about the middle of March in the neighbourhood
of St. Louis, at which time the willow, (Salix)
the elm, (Ulmus Americana) and maples, (Acer
rubrum and Saccharinum) are in flower. The
spring rains usually occur in May, after which
month the weather continues fine, almost without
interruption, until September, when rain again oc-
curs about the equinox, after which it remains
again fine serene weather until near Christmas,
when the winter commences.' About the begin-

* A list of some of the herbaceous plants of the Missouri ter-
ritory will be found annexed.

259

ning or middle of October the Indian summer* com-
mences, and is immediately known by the change
which takes place in the atmosphere, as it now be-
comes hazy, or what they term smoky. This gives
to the sun a red appearance, and takes away the
glare of light, so that all the day, except a few
hours about noon, he may be looked at with the
naked eye without pain : the air is perfectly quies-
cent and all is stillness, as if nature, after her exer-
tions during the summer, were now at rest. The
winters are sharp, but it may be remarked that less
snow falls, and they are much more moderate
on the west than on the east side of the Alleghanies
in similar latitudes.

The wild productions of the Missouri Territory,
such as fruits, nuts, and berries, are numerous : of
these the summer grape ( Vitis aestivalis ) appears
to be the most valuable, as the French have made a
considerable quantity of wine from it by collecting
the wild fruit. t This species grows in abundance
on the prairies, and produces a profusion of fine

* Indians begin to provide for the winter when this state of
the weather commences, as they know it will soon approach.

f Mr. James Berry, with whom I resided, about four miles
from St. Louis, told me that he made eight quarts of wine from
the grapes of one of these vines, which ran up a small tree,
about 150 yards from his house.

260

bunches. The winter grape fVitls vulphmm) is
remarkable for the large size of its vine, which
climbs to the tops of the highest trees, and takes
such full possession of their tops, that after the fall
of the leaf, the tree to which it has attached itself
seems to be loaded with fruit. The vine at the
bottom is commonly six or eight inches in diameter.
I measured one near the Merrimac river, that was
thirty-seven inches in circumference near the ground,
after which it divided into three branches, each
branch taking possession of a tree. The fruit is
very good after the frosts have commenced. Another
fruit found here is the persimon, ( D'wspyros vir-
giniana) which in appearance resembles a plum,
excepting that the permanent calyx of the flower
remains. It is so astringent until ameliorated by
the frosts, that on being eaten, it draws up the
mouth, and when swallowed, contracts the throat
in such a manner as to cause a sensation similar to
that of choking.

The papaw ( Anona triloba) is found in plenty
on the alluvion of the rivers. The fruit is of the
magnitude and shape of a middling sized cucum-
ber, and grows in clusters of three, four, or five
together : when ripe the pulp is of the consist-
ence of a custard, and is very agreeable to some
palates ; but the hogs will not touch them. Straw-
berries are in vast abundance on the prairies, and
are very fine. The pecan, or Illinois nut, is a kind

261

of walnut, but very different from all the other
species, both in the form and texture of its shell,
which is so thin as to be cracked between the teeth
with the greatest ease. It is of an oblong form,
and from that circumstance the tree which produces
it has obtained the name of Juglans olivceformis.
There are several other species of hickory and wal-
nut, which yield nuts in great abundance. These,
together with acorns from the various species of
oak, furnish abundance of food for hogs.

The quadrupeds found in parts inhabited by the
whites, of which the flesh is eaten, are bear, deer,
hares, racoon, opossum, and a variety of squirrels.
With bear, deer, and turkeys, the town of St. Louis
is frequently supplied by a tribe of the Shawanee
nation of Indians, who live about seventy miles
west of that place. They usually charge a quarter
of a dollar for a turkey or a quarter of venison.

It is necessary to observe that Upper Louisiana
was settled from Canada, not by way of Orleans,
but by proceeding along the Lakes, and descend-
ing the Illinois or Miami rivers, and may be con-
sidered as a distinct colony, the history of which,
so far as may be gathered from themselves, does
not present those horrid examples of treachery and
injustice to the Indians, which will for ever dis-
grace the memory of those who first formed the

2f>2

lower settlement. The consequence has been, that
although individual acts of injustice or aggression,
committed against the Indians, have met with due
and appropriate punishment, yet no general act
has been committed of a nature so atrocious as to
provoke general extermination ; a thing extremely
easy to have been effected by the Indians in the
early part of the settlement, as there were several
powerful tribes in their vicinity. The inhabitants
of Kaskaskias say that it was coeval witb Philadel-
phia, and the common term for Vincennes, (Old
Post) shows that it must have been one of the first
settlements, if not the first. Both these are on the
east side of the Mississippi, as also are Cahokia and
the small settlement of Prairie du Roche. Besides
these four, on the west side, there were five villages
originally settled, each of which, besides its proper
name, has a nick-name given to it. St. Genevieve is
Miser e; Carondolet, Vuide Poche ; St. Louis, Pain
Court; St. Ferdinand, Florissanle ; and St. Charles,
Petit Cote. These nine villages were scattered some
more than 100 miles distant from each other, and no
two of them were so situated as to be capable of
rendering mutual aid, in case of attack from the
Indians, and for more than sixty years five of them
existed, isolated in a wilderness, 600 miles at least
from any other white settlers.

The villages were regularly laid out in squares

263

of 300 feet on each side, the houses standing to-
wards the streets, and the interior of the area com-
posed of gardens and orchards. To each of these
villages was appropriated a large space of ground,
and fenced in the form of a parallelogram. In this
space allotments are laid out, correspondent in
number and relative magnitude with the town lots.
These allotments extend the whole length of the
field ; but their magnitude is determined by the
breadth, which is marked on one of the fences, be-
ing once, or once and a half, or twice, &c. the
length of the side of a square arpent of land. In
the common field belonging to Carondolet, these
narrow stripes are more than a mile and a half in
length. Besides the appropriation of land for cul-
tivation, an extensive tract was laid out for each
town as a forest, or demesne, from which each indi-
vidual cuts what wood he thinks proper. All these
appropriations have been ratified by the commis-
sioners appointed by the government of the United
States, since the cession of Louisiana, to examine
into claims. The French, who are the descendants
of the first settlers, are very indolent, and so much
attached to the manners of their ancestors, and
even their practices in husbandry, that although
they see their American neighbours, by the appli-
cation of improved implements and methods, able
to cultivate double the quantity of ground in the
same time, nothing can induce them to abandon

SGt

their old practices : and if any one attempts to rea-
son with them on the subject, their constant reply
is, " As it was good enough for our forefathers, it
is good enough for us;" whence it appears that
even veneration for ancestry may become an evil.
They cultivate maize, wheat, oats, barley, beans,
(Phaseolus) pumpkins, water and musk melons,
and tobacco and cotton for their own use. Apples
and peaches are very fine : the former abundant,
and do not require to be engrafted. They pay
great attention to gardening, and have a good as-
sortment of roots and vegetables. Notwithstand-
their want of industry, there is an appearance of
comfort and independence in their villages, as,
from the richness of the soil, and fineness of the
climate, the labours attendant on agriculture, and
attention necessary to their cattle, are compara-
tively trivial. They have abundance of horses,
cows, and hogs, all which run at large on the
prairies, as they have no inclosures but for the
purpose of agriculture. They mow a little grass
on the prairie, which they make into hay, and give
it to their horses and cattle when the ground is co-
vered with snow : at other times they leave them
to provide for themselves. The hogs sustain them-
selves on strawberries, hazle nuts, hickory nuts,
acorns and roots, and must be occasionally sought
for in the woods, to prevent them from becoming
entirely wild. On these occasions, the proprietor

265

fills his saddle bags with the ears of Indian corn, with
which he mounts his horse, generally with his rifle
on his shoulder. If he finds them within three
or four miles of his house, he thinks himself fortu-
nate ; but it sometimes happens that he is two days
in " hunting them up," as they term it. When he
finds them, he throws down an ear of corn, which
they devour, and he rides gently towards home,
with the whole herd screaming after him. When
they are almost inclined to give up the chase, he
throws down another ear, which practice he conti-
nues until he brings them into his yard, where he
shuts them up, and feeds them. Here they remain
until the morning, when he again feeds them, marks
the young pigs, sets them at liberty, and probably
does not see them again for a fortnight or three
weeks. That each planter may identify his own
hogs, he marks them in the ear, and in each town-
ship an office is established, in which these marks
are registered ; they are either holes or slits, or both,
differently arranged ; so that no two marks are
alike ; and it is against the laws of the territory to
expose the carcase of a hog for sale without having
the ears upon it.

St. Louis, the capital of this territory, is very
pleasantly situated on the Mississippi, about eigh-
teen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, in

s

266

Fatitude 38° 5' and longitude 89° 55' W. It has a
decided advantage over any of the other towns, on
account of its being situated on a rock, but little
elevated above the high floods of the river, and
immediately on its border. Such situations are
very rare, as the Mississippi is almost universally
bounded either by high perpendicular rocks or
loose alluvial soil, the latter of which is in conti-
nual danger of being washed away by the annual
floods, to such an extent, that a whole plantation,
situated on the border of the river, has been known
to have been swept away during one flood. Fort
Chartres, erected at a vast expence by the French
government on the border of the river, prior to the
cession of Louisiana in 1763, is now almost entirely
swept away. The fur trade of the Mississippi and
the Missouri, together with that of the tributary
streams, almost wholly centers in this town ; and
after the return of Messrs. Lewis and Clark from
the Pacific Ocean, a fur company was formed, for
the purpose of trading with the nations on the head
waters of the Missouri, which, from a variety of
untoward events, but principally from the hostile and
bloody disposition of the Indians, has miscarried.

There is no part of the western country that
holds out greater advantages to the new settler
than the Missouri Territory. It is inferior to no

267

part in point of soil or climate, and has a decided
advantage over the country on the Ohio, as the
transit to Orleans may be made at any season of
the year, whereas the Ohio is not navigable during
the months of August, September, and October.
It is also from 600 to 1000 miles nearer to that
city than the upper part of the Ohio. Opportuni-
ties of purchasing settlements or plantations, already
formed, are very frequent, and at very moderate
terms, as the rage of retiring back prevails here in
as great a degree as in the other new countries.
Wild land, as it is here called, may either be had
from the government of the United States, or from
the old French inhabitants, several of whom pos-
sess very large tracts, obtained by grants from the
Spanish governors. The titles of these lands are
now undoubted, as they have been ratified by the
commissioners appointed by the government of the
United States to examine into claims. The price
of land is various, but may frequently be obtained
on better terms from the land owners than from
the government, or for less than two dollars per acre.
In the reclaiming of wild land, or the forming of a
plantation from a state of nature, the trouble and
labour is much less than in clearing a forest, as here
the trees are not more abundant on the upland
than would be necessary for fuel and for fences.
They naturally stand at a sufficient distance from
each other to admit a fine undergrowth of grass

s °2

26$

and herbage. This country, as well as the western-
region, will reap incalculable benefit from the ap-
plication of steam boats on the Mississippi. Of
these a great many are now building in the different
ports of the Ohio. This mode of conveyance will
also be much facilitated by the abundance of ex-
cellent coal so universally spread over these regions.

It is necessary to observe, that what has been
stated relative to the climate, duration of winter,
agriculture, &c. &c. relates more particularly to
the region included betwixt the mouths of the
Ohio and Missouri, or from 37 to 39* degrees of
latitude ; but this territory extends from 29 to 50
degrees, and therefore proper allowances must be
made for the differences of latitude. In an agri-
cultural point of view, it may be divided into three
regions, suitable for the culture of as many great
staple articles, viz. sugar, cotton, and corn. The
sugar region reaches from the coast ta latitude 31
or 31 1 degrees: the culture of sugar only commenced
about 15 years ago, and until of late has been con-
fined to the alluvion of the Mississippi ; but there
is an extensive tract, suitable for that culture, lying
west of that river, and reaching to the Sabine ri-
ver, comprehending the countries of the Oppe-
lousas and Atacapas, which is now settling fast,
and in point of soil can scarcely be equalled. In
the year 1811, some of the plantations on the Mis-

269

sissippi produced as much as .500 hogsheads of
sugar ; and the cultivation is rapidly encreasing, as
many of the planters have already made immense
fortunes.

\
The region proper for the cultivation of cotton,
and too cold for that of the sugar-cane, extends from
31 i to about 36 degrees of latitude : the species
cultivated is Gossypium annuum. It will grow many
degrees north of 36 ; but will not yield a sufficient
crop, nor is the cotton so good, for the following
reasons : — of the pods containing the cotton, the
terminal pods of the principal branches are the first
ripe : the next in succession are those of the secon-
dary branches, which are followed by those of the
tertiary ones, &c. &c. ; but in each successive gene-
ration, the number is increased in something like
the ratio of a geometrical progression. In the
northerly part of the cotton region, the winter
comes on before the cotton in the pods on the la-
teral branches is ripe, and a great portion of the
crop is destroyed, which a few degrees further south
would have been ripened. But the avarice of some
planters prompts them to continue the gathering
of their crops too long, and the quality of their
cotton is deteriorated thereby, as the sun is too
feeble to give the last part of their crop sufficient
strength. The culture of the cotton plant is not
attended with much trouble. The seeds are planted

270

from 3 to 3:> feet asunder; and after the plants
have acquired a little strength, they are weeded
and earthed up : no further care is required until
the gathering of the pods commences. The cot-
ton is then separated from the seeds by a machine-,
called the saw gin. *

* From observation I am led to believe that the staple of cot-
ton is sometimes injured in the gin ; and as this machine is now
universally used to separate the cotton from the seed, I shall
describe it. The saws are circular, about six or eight inches in dia-
meter, they are made of thin steel plate, and are toothed like those
used for cutting- wood, excepting that they make a more acute
angle with the radii. Twenty-four, thirty, thirty-six, or more
of these saws are placed on an iron shaft, at about one inch asun-
der. This shaft is fixed in a frame, three feet, or three feet six
inches high, and parallel to it is placed a trough, not unlike a
manger. One side of the trough is composed of thin plates of
iron, exceeding in number that of the saws by one. This admits
one of these plates betwixt each two saws, and they are so near
tach other as barely to admit the saw to pass between them. A
fourth part of the saw works within the trough. Beneath the
saws a cylindrical brush turns the same way, but with greater
velocity. On the end of the shaft on which the saws are there
is a fast and a loose pulley for driving the machine, with a belt
for stopping it at pleasure. When the gin is intended to be set
to work, a quantity of cotton, as taken from the pods, is thrown
into the trough, and the belt is put on the fast pulley. The saws,
in passing through the troughs, continue to load their teeth with
cotton, which is instantly thrown off by the brush, and in a few
minutes nothing remains in the trough but bare seeds. The
management of this gin is mostly committed to negroes, who,
anxious to finish their task, drive the machine with too great
velocity, by which, I conceive, not only the staple of the cotton

2?1

As there are public gins established almost in
every part, to which a planter may take his cotton,
and have it cleaned and packed on moderate terms,
it is in the power of a poor man to turn cotton-
planter ; and if he has a numerous family, so much
the better, as females, and even children, can be
employed in gathering the pods, and in taking the
cotton from them. If he settles on wild land, he
can enter upon the culture of cotton with more
facility than on any other crop, as the ground re-
quires less preparation.

This part of Louisiana as yet contains but very
few white settle rs, although, for the most part, the
soil is excellent, and the climate charming. Two
very large rivers, Red River and the Arkansas,
enter the Mississippi in this region, and run their
whole course through it : they are both navigable
to the confines of the internal provinces of New
Mexico, and furnish to those parts the best means
of communication with the ocean. Of these means,
when Mexico shall break its chain, it will avail
itself, and this will become one of the richest and
most valuable parts of the United States.

is injured, but the green lumps, which are in fact the abortive
seeds, are broken, and carried through along with the cotton.
From this cause, in a great measure, arises the difference of qua-
lity of cotton from the same plantation.

272

In an agricultural point of view, the vast tract
of prairie extending through all these regions, is
an important object of consideration. Amongst
intelligent Americans, the question of— whether it
can or cannot be peopled by civilized man ? has
often been agitated. Accustomed, as they are, to
a profusion of timber, for buildings, fuel, and
fences, they are not aware of the small quantity of
that article which may be dispensed with, in a
country abounding in another substance for fuel ;
nor can they conceive, that fences, and even build-
ings, may be constructed with the application of a
very small portion of timber. Under these impres-
sions, the belief in America is, that the prairie can-
not be inhabited by the whites ; even Mr. Brack -
enridge says it cannot be cultivated. My own opi-
nion is, that it can be cultivated ; and that, in pro-
cess of time, it will not only be peopled and culti-
vated, but that it will be one of the most beautiful
countries in the world.

If I may be permitted to judge from travelling
nearly 500 miles through it, I must pronounce the
soil to be excellent, and in almost every part where
I saw it in a state of nature, it was covered with
the finest verdure imaginable. The stratum im-
mediately below the vegetable soil is almost uni-
versally a very tenacious clay, and extremely well
calculated to form a material for brick, or, in the

2?3

first instance, for such habitations as are made in
Ireland, many of which are very comfortable. In
time timber would be raised ; for to suppose it
would not grow there because it does not, would
be absurd. Whenever this region shall commence
to be peopled, the first settlements will be made at
the edge of the woody region, or on the borders of
the rivers, where a little timber may be found, and
probably the first wave in the tide of population
will be formed of shepherds and herdsmen. The
tacit compact mutually binding betwixt man and
the animals he domesticates, implies a duty con-
nected with an interest to both parties. Man fur-
nishes to them food and protection, and enables
them to pass a few years of comfortable existence :
they repay him with their lives or their services. In
#11 cases, the domestication of animals is of the most
value to man in those parts where he can perform
his duty to them at the least expence to himself.
In no part of the world can it be done with less
trouble than in the southern part of this region.
A convincing proof of this is, that here domesticat-
ed animals have dissolved the contract, and that
thousands and tens of thousands of their descend-
ants still maintain their independence. If, besides
yielding food and protection to herbivorous ani-
mals, other means of reducing them to a state of
dependence on man could not be found, domesti-
cation without inclosures (which imply coercion)

«7*

would be in these parts impracticable, because food
is at all times in abundance, and the want of pro-
tection would be obviated by an association in num-
bers. But salt furnishes those means, by the aid
of which the shepherd or the herdsman obtains a
complete dominion over the will ot his flock or his
herds, and in the midst of this vast region can call
them round him at pleasure.*

I shall close this article by a few observations on
the state of this country before it was transferred
to the United States, and of the immense value
and importance it is to that government. If a per-
son who visited this country, and witnessed its fer-
tility, did not at the same time witness the want of
industry and enterprise in the descendants of the
old inhabitants, he would be surprised that its ad-

* In a fertile country, and when not circumscribed by fences,
there is a continued tendency in animals to return to the state of
nature. Besides the accounts of others tending- to prove this, I
had evidence of it in my horse, on the prairie near St. Louis, in
the summer of 1810. He was usually remarkably docile, and
although there was not a single fence to obstruct his passage to
the Pacific Ocean, he was easily caught when often wanted : but
during the time I was attacked by the ague, sometimes he was
not sought for during a fortnight. At those times he would let
no one come near him, and shewed an utter contempt for corn,
when offered to him ; but a display of salt was at all times a
temptation too great to be resisted, and he quietly resigned his
liberty.

T(5

van cement towards improvement has been so slow.
But besides this, the political circumstances under
which it has been placed, have been such as to pre-
clude any possibility of prosperity ; as the very
nature and design of the principles by which it
was governed, whilst under the dominion of Spain,
was to prevent it. The invariable policy of that
government, as regards her colonies, is to prevent,
as much as possible, all intercourse betwixt them
and other nations ; and anxious only to raise imme-
diate revenue, it is in the continued habit of sa-
crificing futurity to the present. The governors
were petty tyrants, w7ho considered their situations
as the means only of aggrandizing themselves ; to
which as well as the interest of the province,
that of the Spanish government, must always give
way. Anxious only to enrich themselves, and
vested with almost unlimited power, the interest
or prosperity of the colony was an object of very
remote consideration. The most depressing regu-
lations were made to shackle the internal trade of
the country ; no man could sell the smallest article,
not even a row of pins, without a licence, and those
licences were sold at the most extravagant rates.
A stranger coming into the province, and offering
goods at a fair price, was certain to be sent to
prison, and to have his goods confiscated. All
favours from these governors, all grants of land,
ox even common privileges, could only be obtained

27G

by bribery. Some of the governors, not satisfied
with the fruit of their rapacious exactions on the
province, were guilty of the most shameful acts
of villany towards their own government. A little
above St. Louis stands a small triangular fort,
which, I was assured by one of the old settlers,
was built by the inhabitants without one shilling
of expense to the governor ; who rewarded some
by grants of land, and others by certain privileges ;
and, for building this fort, a bill was sent in to the
Spanish government to a large amount, which was
paid.*

* Schultz relates the following anecdote in his travels, which
proves that the above instance is not a solitary one : —

" At the lower end of the town of St. Genevieve, the remains
of a Spanish fort are still to be seen, which, being erected on an
eminence, corresponded with that of Kaskaskias by signals.

" It seems after the fort was completed, the commandant had
to wait upon the governor of the province to present his charges.
They were accordingly presented, and amounted to 421 dollars.
The governor, after examining the account, returned it to the
commandant, informing him there was some mistake. The com-
mandant retired and examined it again ; bat finding it entire-
ly correct, presented it once more. The governor, on looking
it over, informed him it was still incorrect, and advised him to
consult with some friend, as he had omitted a figure or two.
The commandant then called upon a friend to look over his ac-
counts with him, who no sooner saw the amount than he burst
into a loud laugh, and taking up a pen, added an 0 to the sum
already stated. The commandant presented his accouwts a third
time, when his excellency replied that it was not quite right yet.
The commandant was amazed : but what was his astonishment

277

Under so detestable a system of government
the energies of man must for ever remain dormant,
and the most fertile regions eternally unproductive
to the world.

The political and commercial advantages that
will arise to the United States from the acqui-
sition of Louisiana are incalculable, besides the
vast revenue that will arise from the sale of
lands. The exclusive right to the Mississippi ri-
ver is an object of the highest importance. The
acquisition of the sugar region alone would
have sufficiently indemnified the American govern-
ment. But without considering the positive ad-
vantages that will arise to the United States from
the possession of Louisiana, the evils that might,
and would have arisen from its being in the posses-
sion of another power, which could have maintained
the dominion of the Mississippi, are also incalcu-
lable. The most prominent of these evils would
have been the separation of the States west of the
Alleghanies from the Union, as, without the free
navigation of the Mississippi, the products of their
fertile soil must have perished on their hands for

when he related the affair to his friend, to see him add another
0 to the last sura, making it 42,100 instead of 421 ! On pre-
senting the account the fourth time, it was graciously received,
and for the discharge of the whole a very small part was paid to
the commandant."

278

the want of a market. So far is a navigable river
from being a boundary calculated to prevent colli-
sion betwixt two different states, that it affords the
greatest possible opportunities for invasion or pre-
datory excursions ; and in case of war with the
power possessing Louisiana, a line of more than
2,000 miles in length of the United States would
have been subject to be invaded in half an hour after
the enemy left his own territory. But besides the
devastations incident on regular warfare, this ex-
tended border would have been subject to the de-
predations of the various tribes of warlike Indians
residing west of the Mississippi, who would have
been a terrible engine in the hands of the power
possessing the dominion of that country. In a
state of hostility, they would have rendered the
eastern bank of the Mississippi wholly uninhabit-
able.

«7£

REMARKS

ON

THE STATES OF OHIO, KENTUCKY, AND INDIANA,

WITH

THE ILLINOIS AND WESTERN TERRITORY,

AND ON THE
EMIGRATIONS TO THOSE COUNTRIES^

In a tour across the Alleghanies, and through the
regions west of these mountains and east of the
Mississippi river, I did not keep a regular journal,
but contented myself with making general remarks,
without any expectation that they would ever be
submitted to public view. From these remarks I
shall briefly extract such matter as may be useful
to those who wish to visit the western country, or
be read with interest by those who do not. /

The committee appointed by the government of
the United States, in the year 1816, to examine into
the state of American manufactures, in speaking of
the western country, say, ** The rapidity of its
growth is such, that even whilst we are employed
in drawing the portrait, the features continue to ea-

2S0

large, and the picture becomes distorted/' As

nothing can be more true than the above observa-
tion, it is therefore evident that a traveller, in speak-
ing of this country as acted upon by the operations
of man, can only speak with confidence of what
was. It is only on its natural formation that he can
speak of what is as far as is known.

The region to which these observations will more
particularly apply, is bounded by the Alleghanies
to the south-east, by the Mississippi on the west,
and the Great Lakes to the north. The Kaatskill
mountains, on the Hudson river, about 180 miles
from New York, are considered as the northern
termination of the chain of mountains called the
Alleghanies, from which point they proceed in a
south-west direction to the Floridas, a distance of
900 miles, and parallel with the general direction
of the Atlantic coast. The country west of this
chain is in so many points of view different from
that comprehended betwixt it and the Atlantic, as
to demand a separate and distinct description. As
almost the w7hole of the population of this country
is -confined to the vicinity of the Ohio or its tribu-
tary streams, the portion which furnishes water to
that river will first be considered. West and north-
west there is a vast tract on which that river is not
dependent. That tract, as regards its natural for-

281

mation, has a distinct character, which will also be
particularly noticed.

The Ohio, from Pittsburgh to its mouth, is sup-
posed to be 1188 miles in length, and receives in
its course a considerable number of streams, of
which the following are the principal: —

Tennessee, Sciota,

Cumberland, Big Sandy River,

Green River, Great Kenhawa,

Salt River, Little Kenhawa,

Kentucky River, Muskingum,

Little Miami, Wabash.
Great Miami,

Its name Ohio is of Indian origin, and signifies
beautiful. The French have not adopted the term,
but call it in their maps of this country La Belle
Riviere. Although only a small stream when com-
pared to the Mississippi, some idea of its magni-
tude may be formed by those who are only accus-
tomed to see rivers in miniature, by examining the
following statement of the area from which it de-
rives its waters : —

282

Sqr. Mite*.

Illinois Territory. TV 5,200

Indiana Territory (the whole), 37,050

State of Ohio, f, 35,088

Pennsylvania, }p 16,493

New York, T^, 521

Maryland, T^, 140

Virginia, f, 28,200

North Carolina, -fa 1,100

South Carolina, T-^, 152

Georgia, fa 2,000

Kentucky (the whole), 40,110

Tennessee, f, 32,400

Square miles, 108,404

The area of England and Wales is 49,450 square
miles : it therefore appears that this river receives
the water of a surface four times that extent. This
surface is comprehended betwixt the parallels of
35 and 43 degrees of latitude ; a climate perhaps
the best on the globe as regards the comforts of
man.

The seasons and general state of the weather cor-
respond with what has been mentioned of Upper
Louisiana in similar latitudes : — in spring heavy
rains; in summer an almost cloudless sky, with heavy
dews at night; in autumn some rain, followed by the
Indian summer ; and the winter from ten weeks to
three months long, which is dry, sharp, and pleasant.

283

From the Alleghanies to the Lakes there are no
mountains, or scarcely an elevation deserving the
name of a hill, the bluffs which border the rivers ex-
cepted. It is nevertheless relieved from the dull mo-
notony of a level plain by numberless valleys, through
which the streams flow, and by small elevations, term-
ed ridges. The soil is much superior to that of the
countries east of the Alleghanies, and varies in
quality. These variations are denoted by the term
first, second, and third rate. In the early stage of
the transition of a fertile country from a state of
nature to that of improvement and the arts, but
little can be known as respects its geological for-
mation, or, in other words, what it may contain as
regards minerals. In general the first settlers are
only cultivators of the soil, and never examine to
any considerable depth below the surface, except-
ing by digging wells. All that is known of this
country on those subjects has been discovered in
that way, or has manifested itself on the surface,
and is confined, as regards useful articles, to coal,
salt, iron, lead, and nitre. From the numerous
and general indications, and the known existence
of coal, it maybe presumed to be very abundant.
In examining the beds of most of the rivers, round-
ed nodules of coal may be found mixed with the
stones and gravel, and beds of argillaceous schist,
containing vegetable impressions, are frequent : in
some instances these beds contain masses of pyrites,

t2

QM

Coal is actually found at Pittsburgh, at Zanesville,
on Green River, in the Illinois, and in the western
territories. It is uniformly bituminous, and highly
charged with that substance.* In all these in-
stances it has manifested itself on the surface of
the earth, and indicates almost inexhaustible beds.

Salt, the most useful article at present, is found
in various places, but as yet only in a state of so-
lution, and has mostly been indicated by the exca-
vations made by wild animals before the country
was discovered by the whites. These, and in par-
ticular those of the herbivorous kind, have a strong
predilection for salt. They resorted in immense
numbers to every place where a salt spring existed,
and not only drank the water, but licked up all the
earth in its vicinity, which was impregnated with
saline particles. Some of these excavations are of
a surprising extent, when the means by which they
have been effected is considered. That which led
to the discovery of the salt spring called the Ohio
Saline, about twenty miles from the mouth of the
Wabash, is several acres in extent, and from six to

* This fact is remarkable in a geological point of view, when
connected with auother, which is, that almost all, if not the
whole of the coal discovered east of the Alleghanies, is of the
kind called by Kirwan mineral carbon, containing no bitumen.
Vast beds of this description of coal exist on the Susquehannak
and Delaware rivers. It contains 90 per cent, of carbon.

%85

ten feet in depth. On viewing these, and contem-
plating the length of time necessary for such a mass
of earth to be carried away in the stomachs of ani-
mals, the mind is struck with astonishment.* The
existence of salt on the Kenhawa was not pointed
out by these indications. On sinking a well, they
came to a red sandstone rock before they had ob-
tained a sufficiency of water, and perforated the
rock, when the salt water immediately issued up
with great force. This rock is now found to ex-
tend for several miles on both sides of the river.
Wherever it is perforated salt water is found be-
neath, and several works for the manufacture of
salt are already establish ed.t

* Salt is made at various places in the western country, and
the manufacture is rapidly increasing-. The principal establish-
ments are on the Kenhawa, at Bullet's and at Mann's Licks,
Kentucky, and at the Ohio Saline, at the mouth of the Wabash.

f In passing down that river I had an opportunity of seeing
the manner in which they construct their wells for the salt wa-
ter, which, on account of its singularity, I shall describe. They
first ascertain by boring at what depth they shall come to the
rock, and afterwards look out for a hollow tree, which must be
at least from three to four feet in diameter. This they cut down
carefully for fear of splitting-, and saw off such a length as will
reach from the surface of the ground to the rock. If the hollow
of the tree is not large enough to allow room sufficient for a man
to work within, they enlarge it. A well is next dug, and when
so deep that there is danger of the earth falling in, the trunk is
put down, and sunk to the surface of the rock. After the influx
of fresh water is prevented by calkings round the edges at the

286

Iron ore is found in many places, but chiefly in
the neighbourhood where foundries have been esta-

l)ottom of the trunk, the perforation is made, and the salt water
immediately rises to the surface. Besides the use here mention-
ed, hollow treti win: applied to other purposes, being- cut across
in different lengths, and used by the first settlers as tubs to hold
grain, &c. Any portion so cut off is rilled a gum, a name pro-
bably arising from the almost exclusive application of the gum
trees to these purposes ; for although many species of trees are
liable to become hollow, yet none are so perfectly hollowed as
the gum tree f Liquid amber styracifiuu.J These trees, as I am
informed, are often found so completely hollow as to leave the
sound part not more than an inch in thickness, and the inside
surface perfectly smooth.

Having mentioned the Kenhawa, I must observe, that on ar-
riving at the falls of that river, ninety miles from the Ohio. I
found a boat going from thence to Kenhawa Court-house, with
some eroods that had been brought over the Alleghanies. A pas-
sage was cheerfully granted to me, during which I enquired for
the burning- well, and expressed a wish to see it. The boatmen
informed me it was four miles from the river, and it would not
be convenient for them to wait until I visited it, but promised to
show me what would equally gratify my curiosity. Accordingly,
near the edge of the river, and about fifteen miles farther down,
they lauded, and conducted me to where there was a hole dug in
the sandy bank of the river, about a foot in diameter. From
this hole a flame issued at least two feet high. Several stones
were placed round the margin, on which some other boatmen
had set their kettles to cook their meat. I had noticed for seve-
ral miles above a vein of iron ore appearing at the surface, about
the height of the highest floods, and in almost every part of the
bank great quantities of ochre. The same appearances conti-
nued to the distance of several miles below. From noticing this
circumstance, I was led to form a conjecture on the formation of

OQ

S7

blished. About fourteen miles west of the Ohio
Saline, in the Illinois Territory, there is a lead
mine, which was discovered by a gentleman from
Tennessee, of the name of Guest. It is not yet
worked, but seems to promise well. Some small
excavations have been made, and a quantity of
galena found. It appears to have no connection or
affinity with the mines of St. Genevieve, not only
on account of the distance being about 150 miles,
but from the marked difference in the rock which
is the matrix of the ore, and in the substances
which are concomitant with it. The rock in this
mine is of that species of limestone called ketton-
stone, or compact limestone of Kirwan, and con-
sists of very small accreted round granulations.
The ore is mixed with beautiful fluor spar, of se-
veral colours, as blue, brown, yellow, and pellucid.
The caves yielding salt-petre are still more abun-
dant than those of Upper Louisiana, or rather they
are better known, and some of them are of surpris-
ing extent. They abound chiefly on Green, Ten-
nessee, and Cumberland rivers.

the gas that supplied the flame, and was persuaded that there is
a vast body of iron ore, which, from the appearance of so much
ochre, is in a continued state of oxydization, and produces a
constant decomposition of water, with the oxygen of which it
unites, and consequently a quantity of hydrogen is evolved. —
May not this be the cause ?

288

The country is generally calcareous ; but many
rocks of freestone occur. One producing excellent
ilags may be observed near the place where the
battle was fought at Point Pleasant, on the Ken-
hawa.

Near the mouth of Cabin Creek, about six miles
above Limestone, on the Ohio, there is a hill al-
most covered with detached petrified casts of ma-
rine shells, in which a great many species may be
observed.

In the state of nature, this country was almost
wholly covered with trees, many of which are of
great magnitude. More than one hundred species
are found, and the timber is of various qualities,
affording to the farmer, ship-builder, carpenter,
cooper, and cabinet-maker great opportunities of
selecting what is most suitable for their different
purposes. Of the oak only, there are fourteen or
fifteen species, of which the over cup, (Quercus
macrocarpa) affords the best timber. The po3t
oak, (Quercus obtusilobaj is also much esteemed
for the durability of its timber when put into the
ground. The black locust, (Robinia pseud-acacia)
and the honey locust, (Gleditsia triacantlios) are
excellent for the ship-builders, and are much es-
teemed by them, particularly for the making of
tree-nails. For furniture, they chiefly use the wild

289

cherry, (Prunas Virgiana) and black walnut,
(Juglans nigra) the former is little inferior to ma-
hogany in beauty.

Nothing so much surprises the European on his
first entrance into the western country, as the
grandeur and beauty of many of these trees, and
more particularly if he happens to arrive in the
Spring, not less than ten species produce a pro-
fusion of beautiful blossoms, and the under-
wood consists mostly of some of our finest flower-
ing shrubs. The trees comprise five species of
Magnolia, with Liriodendron tulipifera, or tulip
tree, Robinia pseudacacia, or black locust, Guilan-
dina dioica, or coffee nut, and two species of horse
chesnut, JEscidus pavia and Jiava. Amongst the
shrubs are found the Rhododendrons, Kalmias, and
Azaleas, with Cercis Canadensis, and Cornusjlorida.

The wild animals have mostly disappeared from
the vicinity of the inhabited parts; none now re-
main that are dangerous, and but few that are
destructive. The wolves sometimes take a sheep,
or a small pig, but they are already becoming
scarce, and will soon disappear. The squirrels are
the greatest enemies the farmers have now to con-
tend with, but are prevented from an inordinate
increase by the frequency of squirrel hunts by

290

the riflemen, which is encouraged by the land-
holders.*

The price of land is so much varied by quality
and situation, that no certain data can be given.
Near the large towns, land is as high as near the
cities in the eastern states, and in the most popu-
lous towns, the lots sell at a very higli price. In
February, 1816, land in the town of Louisville

* The squirrels have greatly increased since the country has
become peopled by the whites, owing to the greater quan-
tity of food afforded, by the opportunities they have of robbing
the corn and wheat fields ; but the farmers occasionally give
what they call " a barbique" in the woods, to the young rifle-
men, on the condition that they make a match at squirrel hunt-
ing, of six, eight, or ten, against a similar number, who also
make a wager amongst themselves. The hog is killed, dressed,
and roasted after the Indian method; this consists in digging a
hole, the bottom of which they cover with hot stones ; on these
the hog is laid, and covered over also with heated stones. There
is plenty of liquor, and the frolick ends in shooting at a mark.
I have heard of more than 2,000 squirrels being killed at one
of these hunts, all with ball. Perhaps this circumstance con-
tributes to render these people such skilful marksmen ; and as
every man is necessitated to appropriate a portion of his land to
timber for fuel and fences, the squirrels having refuge there, it
will long continue to do so. Another enemy they keep within
bounds, perhaps withont designing it. Before the peaches are
naturally mature, great quantities fall from the trees, apparently
ripe ; to consume these, they turn the hogs into their orchards.
On examining these peaches, in each may be found a small
worm, of course produced by a winged insect, probably a C'y-

291

sold at the rate of 30,000 dollars per acre. The
lands belonging to the United States government
are sold at one uniform price, viz. two dollars per
acre, with five years to pay it in, or one dollar,
sixty-four cents cash. There are but few European
families, who have been accustomed to sedentary
employments, that could submit to the fatigues
incident on clearing a forest, and converting it
into arable land. To such, a resource is always
open, as opportunisies are never wanting to pur-
chase from the Backwoodsman what he calls his
improvement. He is alarmed at the approach of
population, and is anxious to remove farther back
into the woods. The improvement consists in a
log house, a peach, and perhaps an apple orchard,
together with from ten, to thirty or forty acres of
land, inclosed, and partially cleared. For this,
seldom more than from fifty to a hundred dollars
is asked, exclusive of the value of the land, which
in most cases belongs to the United States, and
may be purchased at the land office on the usual

nips. Those who are acquainted with the amazing powers of
reproduction vested in insects, need not to be informed of the
consequences if these were all suffered to arrive at maturity.
Some of the farmers consider the woodpecker as an enemy, on
account of the great number of perforations it makes in their
apple trees, but as its food is insects, the same reasoning will
^pply as in the case above, and I think it to them an invaluable
friend.

£92

terms. Besides the land belonging to the United
States, there are large tracts in the hands of spe-
culators, from whom it may sometimes be purchas-
ed upon as good terms as from the government, and
as liberal in point of credit ; but in this case, care
should be taken to examine if the title is good.
Many of the speculators are anxious to sell, as the,
land-tax, although comparatively light, becomes
heavy on very extensive purchases : it amounts to
one dollar, twenty cents, per annum, on 100 acres
of first- rate land ; one dollar on 100 acres of se-
cond-rate ; and sixty cents on third-rate. These
sums are nearly in the proportion of i£ of a penny
per acre for first-rate ; one halfpenny per acre for
second-rate ; and TV of a halfpenny per acre for
third-rate. Some districts of upland may be pur-
chased of the speculators at half a dollar, or '2s. 3d.
per acre : this would answer well for sheep. No
land tax is expected until five years after the pur-
chase, when land becomes liable. They have two
modes of clearing land ; one by cutting the trees
round, so as to kill them, and afterwards clearing
away the underwood, the quantity of which is very
small : this mode is called girdling, and is only re-
sorted to by those who, to use their own phrase,
are " weak-ha?ided." The other mode is by cut-
ing down the trees, dragging them into heaps,
and burning them. This operation is almost al-
ways the subject of what they term a frolic, or in

293

some places, a bee. It is necessary to remark, that
in the early part of the settlement of a country
like this, a great number of things occur necessary
to be done, which require the united strength of
numbers to effect. In those parts, money cannot
purchase for the new settlers the required aid ;
but that kind and generous feeling which men have
for each other, who are not rendered callous by
the possession of wealth, or the dread of poverty,
comes to his relief: his neighbours, even unsoli-
cited, appoint a day when as a frolic, they shall,
for instance, build him a house. On the morning
of the appointed day they assemble, and divide
themselves into parties, to each of which is assign-
ed its respective duty ; one party cuts down the
trees, another lops and cuts them to proper lengths,
a third is furnished with horses and oxen, and
drags them to the spot designed for the scite of
the house : another party is employed in making
shingles to cover the roof, and at night all the mate-
rials are ready upon the spot ; and on the night of
the next day, he and his family sleep in their new ha-
bitation. No remuneration is expected, nor would
it be received. It is considered the performance of
a duty, and only lays him under the obligation to
discharge the debt by doing the same to sub-
sequent settlers. But this combination of labour
in numbers, for the benefit of one individual, is not
confined to the new comer only, it occurs fre-

89 1

quently in the course of a year among the old set-
tlers, with whom it is a continued bond of amitv
and social intercourse, and in no part of the world
is good neighbourship found in greater perfection
than in the western territory, or in America
generally.

As the climate has already been spoken of, I
shall only observe, that here, as in Upper Louisi-
ana, the shortness and mildness of the winter is of
immense advantage to the farmer. In parts where
the winter is five or six months long, a great por-
tion of time must necessarily be employed in pro-
viding food for the cattle during that season. Here
very little time or land is necessary to be devoted
to that purpose. The greatest part of the farmers
scatter the seeds of pumpkins in the fields when
planting the corn : no farther care is required, ex-
cept throwing the pumpkins into the waggon when
ripe. These, with the tops of the Indian corn,
cut off when the ears are formed, give sufficient
food for all the stock during winter. The pump-
kins are raised with so little trouble, that they
sell for a dollar per waggon load, and generally
weigh from thirty to fifty pounds each, although
some have been raised to exceed 200 pounds. Cat-
tle and hogs eat them with avidity.

The vine flourishes in this region, and the

295

wheat can scarcely be surpassed, either for quality
or abundance. With the exception of beans, (Vi-
cia fabaj and cauliflower, the culinary vegetables
of Europe are raised in as much perfection as in
England. In addition to these, they cultivate in
their fields, amongst other crops, water-melons,
musk-melons, squashes, and sweet potatoes, (Con-
volvulus batatus.) Cucumbers and beans, (Pha-
seolus) grow in much greater perfection than in
England. The fruits are excellent, and in great
abundance, particularly peaches and apples.

Very little of the agricultural labour falls on the
women, who employ themselves in their domestic
manufactures, in which they are both expert and
industrious. Almost all grow some flax, and south
of latitude 39°, they have what they call a cotton
patch.* Few are without sheep. By these means,
the women are furnished with three staple articles,
out of which they spin sufficient to produce almost
all the clothing and other articles necessary for a
family. Some have looms, and weave it them-
selves ; others employ weavers, who follow that
business as an occupation t

* Cotton does not become an object of culture as a crop north
of 36°.

t The manufacture of their woollens is much facilitated by

2f)6

In tlie towns, many of the trades or manufac-
tories are already established, that are calculated
to furnish articles of the first degree of necessity ;
and some of those which produce articles neces-
sary in a more advanced state of refinement.
Amongst the first, are masons, stone-cutters, brick-
makers, smiths, carpenters, wheelwrights, cabinet-
makers, saddlers, boot and shoe makers, ship and
boat builders, nailors, coppersmiths and brass-
founders, wire-drawers and wire-makers, screw
and hinge makers, gunsmiths, cutlers, machine
makers, clock and watch makers, curriers, glov-
ers, distillers, butchers, bakers, brewers, stock-
ing makers, rope makers, coffee-mill makers,
and a great number of others. There are also
glass manufactories, cotton and woollen ma-
nufactories, iron foundries, potteries, floor-cloth
manufactories, steam engine makers, glass cutting,
silversmiths, looking-glass makers, printers, book-
binders, &c. &c. There is no part of the world
where labour finds a better market than in the
western country ; this results from a state of things
that will not admit of a speedy change. A very
moderate sum of money enables a man to procure
one or two hundred acres of land ; the savings of

the establishment of carding machines : almost generally through*
out the United States, some proprietors have two or three
machines.

two or three years will enable a working man to
effect this, if he is prudent; and although he can
only cultivate a small part of it, and perhaps for
the first two or three years, not more than will
maintain his family, yet the accumulation of pro-
perty by the regular and rapid advance in the va-
lue of his land, forms more than an equivalent to
the savings of the labourer or mechanic. From
this cause, there is a continued tendency in the
labourers to turn to farming, as soon as they have
acquired a little property : they are well aware
that, by undertaking to bring wild land into a state
of cultivation, they must undergo some hardships,
and suffer some privations, but the state of ease,
security, and independence which will assuredly
follow, makes ample amends.

That produce of every kind, of the nature of
provisions, will for a very long time remain low,
may be presumed by attending to the following
circumstances : first, the distance from a foreign
market, causing a great expense in exportation :
secondly, the great predominance of scattered po-
pulation employed in farming, over that which is
condensed in towns, or otherwise employed : and
thirdly, the vast extent of land remaining wrest of
the Alleghanies yet unoccupied ; this will appear
from the following statement of the area and po-
pulation, in which all that part attached to the

v

298

•

Atlantic States is excluded. The population is
taken as- it stood in the census of 1810, since
when, although there has been a great increase,
yet it makes no very sensible difference when the
extent of the country is considered.

Area in square miles. Population.

Ohio State, 43,800 230,700

Indiana State, 39,000 24,520

Illinois Territory, 52,000 12,282

Michigan Territory, 34,820 4,702

North West Territory, 106,830 1,000

Kentucky State, 40,110 400,511

Tenessee State, 43,200 201,727

Mississippi Territory, 88,080 40,352

Missouri Territory, 1)85,25) 20,845

1,433,750 1,002,759

By this statement, it appears that in 1810, there*
was only one inhabitant in near l£ square miles,
or, (as there are 640 acres to the square mile) one
inhabitant in every 900 acres, not one-tenth of
these are residents in towns, nor one-fifth having
any employment but agriculture.

The average population in England and Wales
is 192 to the square mile. In Lancashire there
are 400 inhabitants to the square mile, which al-
lows but little more than an acre and a half to each
individual.

299

Wages in the Western Country, to a labourer or
husbandman, are about fifteen dollars, or £3 7s. 6d.
per month, and his board, washing, &c. Carpen-
ters, masons, and other handicraft men, average
about one dollar and twenty-five cents per day,
equal to 5s. 72°^ or one dollar and board. Shoe-
makers have about 4s. sterling for making a pair
of shoes, and for a pair of boots about lis. In the
present state of things, flour, and other produce
that is transferable to a foreign market, is higher
than usual, but when not affected by a scarcity in
Europe, will fall to the usual price, which is pretty
near the following statement.

American Momy. Eng. Money.

Dols. Cents. Shils. Penc*.

Flour, per barrel, • 4 0 or IS 0

Indian corn meal, per 100/ta,. .. . 0 40 — 1 9}

Potatoes, per bushel, 0 31 — 1 4J

Beef, mutton, and veal, per lb. . . 0 5 — 0 2J

Pork, per do 0 4 — 0 2

Bacon, per do 0 8 — 0 4^

Venison, per do « 0 4 — 0 2

Fowls, each 0 12J — 0 7

Ducks, do 0 25 — 1 1J

Geese, do 0 62J — 2 10

Turkies, do 0 75 — 3 4J

Cheese, per lb 0 10 — 0 -5J •

Butter, per do 0 14 — 0 1\

Cider, per barrel, 3 0 — 13 0

Whiskey, per gallon, 0 40 — 1 9}

Peach brandy, per do 0 80 — 3 7

Maple sugar, per ib 0 10 — 0 |£

U

o

300

By a comparison of this table with the rate of
wages, it will appear that an industrious working
man may support a family with great ease in this
country.

Mellish, in his description of these parts, gives
a statement of the prices of provisions and labour,
which he closes by the following observations*
11 From this list of prices, taken in connexion with
the value of labour, it will be seen, that an ordina-
ry workman can procure for a day's work, fifty
pounds of flour, — or twenty pounds of beef, — or
three bushels of potatoes, — or twenty-seven pounds
of pork, — or eight fowls, — or four ducks, — or two
ordinary geese, — or one very large turkey."

The constitution of the state of Ohio declares
that

1. All men are born equally free and inde-
pendent.

2. All men have a natural right to worship God
according to the dictates of their own conscience*

8. Trial by jury shall be inviolate.

i. Printing-presses shall be free.

501

5. Unwarrantable searches shall not be permitted.

i

6. Unnecessary rigor shall not be exercised.

7. Excessive bail shall not be required in bailable
offences.

8. All penalties shall be proportioned to the na-
ture of the offence.

9. The liberty of the people to assemble toge-
ther, to consult for the public good, and to bear
arms in their own defence, is guaranteed.

10. Hereditary emoluments, honours, and pri-
veleges are forever prohibited.

11. Slavery is forever prohibited, and it is de-
clared that " No indenture of any negro or mu-
latto, hereafter made and executed out of the state,
or if made in the state, where the term of service
exceeds one year, shall be of the least validity,
except those given in the case of apprenticeship."

IS. * Religion, morality, and knowledge being
essentially necessary to the good government and
happiness of mankind, schools, and the means of
instruction, shall be forever encouraged by legis-

30'2

lative provision, not inconsistent with the rights
of conscience/'

The government is legislative and executive,
and regulates the judicial and military authority.

The legislature consists of a senate and house of
representatives. The senators are elected bienni-
ally, the representatives annually, by the people,
and one half vacate their seats every year. Every
free white male, who is a citizen of the United
States, and has resided in that state one year, has
a vote for a representative ; if he has resided two
years, he can vote for a senator.

Every citizen qualified to vote for a representa-
tive, and above twenty-five' years of age, is also
eligible to be himself elected : if above thirty
years of age, he is eligible to become a senator.

The governor is also chosen by the people, and
serves for two years : he cannot by law be elected
more than three times in succession.

The election is carried on throughout the state
on the same day, and during the same hours, viz.
from ten to four o'clock. There is a poll in every
township, and it is conducted by ballot; each
elector hands in a slip of paper, containing the

303

name of the candidate for whom he gives his vote,
at which time his own name is registered. By this
means, the whole business of election is begun and
terminated in one day, without any noise or dis-
turbance.

The justices are appointed by the people of their
respective townships,, and retain their office only
three years, unless re-elected.

In the military of the state, the captains and the
subaltern officers are chosen by those in their res-
pective company districts, who are subject to mi-
litary duty.

Majors are elected by captains and subalterns.

Colonels are elected by majors, captains, and
-subalterns.

Brigadier-generals are elected by the commis-
sioned officers of their respective brigades.

Major-generals and quarter-master-generals are
appointed by joint ballot of both houses of the
legislature.

The governor is commander-in-chief, and ap-
points the adjutants.

30 1<

In regard to the manners of the people west of
the Alleghanies, it would be absurd to expect that
a general character could be now formed, or that it
will be for many years yet to come. The popu-
lation is at present compounded of a great num-
ber of nations, not yet amalgamated, consisting
of emigrants from every state in the Union, mix-
ed with English, Irish, Scotch, Dutch, Swiss, Ger-
mans, French, and almost from every country in
Europe. In some traits they partake in common
with the inhabitants of the Atlantic States, which
results from the nature of their government. That
species of hauteur which one class of society in
some countries show in their intercourse with the
other, is here utterly unknown. By their consti-
tution, the existence of a privileged order, vested
by birth with hereditary privileges, honours, or
emoluments, is for ever interdicted. If, therefore,
we should here expect to find that contemptuous
feeling* fn man for man, we should naturally exa-
mine amongst those clothed with judicial or military
authority ; but We should search in vain. The
justice on the bench, or the officer in the field, is
respected and obeyed whilst discharging the func-
tions of his office, as the representative or agent of
the law, enacted for the good of all ; but should he
be tempted to treat even the least wealthy of his
neighbours or fellow-citizens with contumely, he
would soon find that he could not do it with impu-

305

nity. Travellers from Europe, in passing through
the western country, or indeed any part of the Unit-
ed States, ought to be previously acquainted with
this part of the American character, and more par-
ticularly if they have been in the habit of treating
with contempt, or irritating with abuse, those whom
accidental circumstances may have placed in a situ-
ation to administer to their wTants. Let no one
here indulge himself in abusing the waiter or
hostler at an inn : that waiter or hostler is proba-
bly a citizen, and does not, nor cannot conceive,
that a situation in which he discharges a duty to
society, not in itself dishonourable, should sub-
ject him to insult: but this feeling, so far as I
have experienced, is entirely defensive. I have
travelled near 10,000 miles in the United States,
and never met with the least incivility or affront.

The Americans in general are accused by travel-
lers of being inquisitive. If this be a crime, the
western people are guilty ; but for my part I must
say that it is a practice that I never was disposed
to complain of, because I always found them as
ready to answer a question as to ask one, and there-
fore I always came offa gainer by this kind of barter ;
and if any traveller does not, it is his own fault. As
this leads me to notice their general conduct tostran-
.gers, I feel myself bound by gratitude and regard to
truth, to speak of their hospitality. In my travels

306

through the inhabited parts of the United States, not
less than 2000 miles was through parts where there
were no taverns, and where a traveller is under the
necessity of appealing to the hospitality of the in-
habitants. In no one instance has my appeal been
fruitless, although in many cases the furnishing of
a bed has been evidently attended with inconve-
nience, and in a great many instances no remune-
ration would be received. Other European tra-
vellers have experienced this liberal spirit of hospi-
tality, and some have repaid it by calumny. These
calumnies have reached them : they are well ac-
quainted with what Weld and a person who calls
himself Ashe have said of them.* In respect to
their moral character, my experience reaches chief-

* As the book published by this Ashe contains numberless
statements, bearing- in themselves such evidences of being void
of truth as to deprive him of all claim to veracity, and as it has
already sunk into the oblivion it merits, the malignant falsehoods
propagated by him, respecting America and the American peo-
ple, should have remained unnoticed by me, had I not witnessed
the just indignation it has excited in that country, and also found
that Ashe had been received and treated with the greatest kind-
ness by the very people whom he has so grossly libelled. His
statements are too numerous, and many of them too absurd, to
deserve a serious refutation ; but I think it a duty due both to
myself and to my country to state, that his description of the
American people, and the accusations he makes against them,
are void of foundation. If Mr. Ashe saw any instance to war-
rant his observations, he must have kept the worst of company.

307

ly to the western, middle, and some of the southern
states. In the western states, I noticed that very
few of the houses in which I slept had either locks
or bolts on the doors, and that the jails were in
general without a single tenant.

It has already been observed that no people dis-
charge the social duties, as respects the character
of neighbours, better, and I believe no country,
having a population equal to the United States,
.can exhibit the records of their courts. containing
fewer statements of crimes committed against the
laws.

The more northerly parts of the states of Ohio
and Indiana, together with the whole of the Illinois
and western territories, including an area of about
128,130,000 acres, compx'ehends that part which,
in the beginning of this article, has been noticed
as possessing a different character in its natural
state. The original state of the region already
spoken of was that of a continued forest, not con-
vertible into a state fit for cultivation without great
pains and labour. This region is an assemblage of
woodland and prairie or savannas intermixed ; the
portions of each varying in extent, but the aggre-
gate area of the prairies exceeding that of the
woodland in the proportion of three or four to one.
The soil of this part is inferior to none in North

308

America, or perhaps in the world. In a state of
nature, these prairies are covered with a luxuriant
growth of grass and herbaceous plants, affording a
mopt abundant supply of food for the stock of the
new settler ; and it is worthy of notice, that any
part of these prairies, when constantly fed on by
cattle, becomes covered with white clover and the
much esteemed blue grass, (Poa compressaj as
frequent pasturing seems to give those plants a
predominance over all others.

In the geological formation, this country also
differs in some degree from the one entirely covered
with wood in its natural state. The surface is much
more level, and the strata more regular and undis-
turbed. In general the order of the strata is sand
lying on sand-stone, afterwards lime-stone, beneath
which is argillaceous schist lying on coal. For the
settler who is not habitually accustomed to the fell-
ing of trees, and who has the courage to fix him-
self on wild land, this is by much the best part of
the United States, excepting Upper Louisiana.
If he places his house at the edge of one of these
prairies, it furnishes him food for any number of
cattle he may choose to keep. The woodland af-
fords him the materials necessary for his house, his
fire, and fences, and with a single yoke of oxen, he
can in general immediately reduce any part of his
prairie land to a state of tillage. Had this portion

309

of the country been placed at no greater distance
from the Alleghanies than the woody region, it
would undoubtedly have been the first settled;
but being situated from 500 to 1000 miles be-
yond those mountains, and separated from them
by one of the most fertile countries in the world,
the consequence is, that emigrants are so well satis-
fied with what advantages a first view of the coun-
try presents, that they are anxious to sit down as
soon as possible. Another reason why this portion
of the wild lands has not been more rapidly settled,
is the total indifference of the American farmer
to the present or future value of coal. This arises
in part from his prejudice against the use of it for
fuel, but more from his want of knowledge of its
vast importance to other countries, and a conse-
quent want of foresight. The farmer wTho is pos-
sessed of 500 acres of land, expects that in time it
will probably be divided into ten properties or
farms by his posterity, each of which must be sup-
plied with timber for fuel and fences : he wishes,
therefore, that the land unreclaimed may remain
covered with timber, as a reserve for posterity,
although perhaps he has an excellent bed of coal
at no great distance beneath the surface.

Nothing so strongly indicates the superiority of
the western country, as the vast emigrations to it
from the eastern and southern states. In passing

310

through the upper parts of Virginia, I observed d
great number of farms that had been abandoned,
on many of which good houses had been erected,
and fine apple and peach orchards had been plant-
ed. On enquiring the reason, I was always in-
formed that the owners had gone to the western
country. From the New England states the emi-
grations are still more numerous. They mostly
cross the Hudson river betwixt Albany and New-
burg, and must pass through Cayuga in their way
to Pittsburg. I was informed by an inhabitant of
Cayuga, in April 1816, that more than 15,000
Waggons had passed over the bridge at that place
within the last eighteen months, containing emi-
grants to the western country.

In making the following remarks, and in giving
such instructions and information as will be useful
to those who purpose to emigrate to America, I
disclaim any wish to promote emigration. Much
distress has arisen to emigrants, either from having
entertained false conceptions, or from a want of
knowledge how to conduct themselves after their
arrival in the United States. I have witnessed
that distress, and traced it to the cause : my wish
is to obviate it.

The remarks that follow will only apply to such
as the law permits to expatriate themselves, and

311

of course the present state or future prospects of
manufactures in the United States will form no
part of the subjects to be considered. But the in-
utility of the law, prohibiting the emigration of
manufacturers or machinists to the United States,
is so obvious to any one acquainted with the inte-
rior of that country, that they are at a loss to con-
ceive why it continues to exist. It is still more
surprising that it should yet be enforced in a coun-
try where excess of population is a subject of com-
plaint, where means have been devised to check
the rapidity of its progress, and where the classes
denied the privilege of expatriation are complained
of as being an incumbrance, and are daily adding
more and more to the distress of the nation, in the
picture of which they stand the most prominent
figure. Whoever is intimately acquainted with
the interior of the United States, knows that cotton
and woollen manufactories are spread throughout
the union, and that they have found their way even
to the west of the Alleghanies. At Nashville, in
Tennessee; Lexington, in Kentucky; at Cincin-
nati, Beaver, and at Pittsburg, and many other
places, there are large cotton and woollen establish-
ments.

In the eastern and middle states there are many
hundreds of factories, abundantly supplied with
managers and machine-makers from Britain, of

812

which there is such a redundancy, that a very con-
siderable number have resorted to agriculture.
Whether manufactories will succeed in America,
or to what degree, time alone can determine ; but
that their progress can be in the least impeded by
restrictive laws, prohibiting the emigration of ma-
nufacturers or machinists from this country, is now
absolutely impossible.

The first step that an emigrant ought to take,
should be to provide himself with a proper certifi-
cate, setting forth his trade or profession, and tes-
tifying that he has never been employed in manu-
factures, or machine making, or in works of brass,
iron, or steel, appertaining to manufactures. This
certificate must be signed by the minister and
churchwardens of the parish to which he belongs;
and if also by a magistrate, it will render it of
more effect.

Most articles of furniture being cheaper in the
United States than in Britain, nothing of that
kind ought to be taken, as they would, in all pro-
bability, suffer damage. Feather beds and bedding,
on the contrary, should be preserved ; and for
packing clothes, &c. trunks are preferable to heavy
and clumsy boxes. On arriving at the port from
whence the emigrant expects to sail, his first care
should be to ascertain if his certificate is sufficient,

313

which he may be acquainted with at the custom-
house ; and he must be careful not to pay for his
passage until he be well assured that he shall be
permitted to proceed.

The port in the United States to which it will
be the interest of the emigrant to sail, will depend
on his views or his prospects. A wide field is
open to him, and he ought to make himself ac-
quainted with its geography before he decide on
this point.

For a very great portion of emigrants, the countries
west of the Alleghanies, say Ohio, Indiana, Ken-
tucky, Tennessee, or the Illinois, offer by much
the best prospects ; and to get to those countries,
Philadelphia or Baltimore are the best ports. If
the intention be to proceed to the lower part of the
Ohio, Baltimore is preferable to Philadelphia, and
the best way will be to go from thence to Wheel-
ing, on the Ohio, ninety-five miles below Pittsburg,
and the road is much less difficult. The port to
which the emigrant will sail being determined, the
next consideration is sea store ; and he will do well
to recollect that most probably both himself and
his family will be sea sick for some days, and that,
during its continuance, if he is a steerage passen-
ger, both he and his wife will have an utter aversion
to the trouble of cooking : he must therefore pro-

x

314

Tide some cold meat to last during that time : either
fowls or veal would be the best. For the general
sea store it would be difficult to prescribe rules.
The quantity will of course depend on the number
to be provided for, and the quality, on their taste,
and in some measure on the season of the year. If
there are small children, some oatmeal and some
molasses will be found very useful and wholesome,
as it will furnish a food much more conducive to
their health than salt provisions. For the general
sea store, tea, coffee, sugar, biscuits, butter, cheese,
a few hams, salt, soap, candles, &c. will be neces-
sary. Sufficient should be laid in to last at least
eight weeks, in particular for Baltimore, as some-
times vessels are a week or ten days in going up
the Chesapeake after passing the Capes. A due
regard to cleanliness during the voyage is recom-
mended ; to admit as much air between decks as
the weather will permit, and to take a few bottles
of vinegar to sprinkle on the floor occasionally; and
if it can be practised, fumigation, by putting a red
hot piece of iron in a kettle of pitch, will be found
salutary. On arriving at the desired port, if the
emigrant has any letters of introduction, he should
deliver them immediately : his friends may pro-
bably assist him in finding a proper place where
his family may rest a few days after the fatigues of
the voyage. His next care will be to land his
trunks, bedding, &c. and get them deposited in a

315

place of safety. If he have not a letter of intro-
duction to any one in the city where he first lands,
he ought to be on his guard. In every one of the
maritime cities in America, a great number of
small stores are established for the sale of spirituous
liquors, &c. Many of these are kept by natives of
Great Britain, and some of those who keep them
are so devoid of principle as to induce emigrants to
remain in the cities, under various pretences, but
chiefly ^holding out a prospect of employment, when
their real purpose is to tempt them to spend their
money with them.

So many emigrants arrive at all the principal
ports in the United States, that there is very little
chance of employment, and almost the whole of
the distress that has been reported to exist in
America, has arisen from the number of emigrants
who have foolishly lingered in the cities until they
have spent all their money.

It shall be supposed that the design of the emi-
grant is to proceed to the countries east of the
Alleghanies, in which case, he ought not to stay
more than two or three days in the city. When
.he first lands, he will find that great numbers of
waggons start from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, or
from Baltimore to Pittsburg or Wheeling, every
day. The charge is by the hundred weight, both

x2

316

for passengers and their luggage, and the rate is
variable from five to seven dollars per hundred ;
but the men may go cheaper if they chuse to walk
over the mountains, which is recommended. The
waggoners travel with great economy : many
of them carry a small camp-kettle with them, in
which they cook their provisions, and some have
even a bed in their waggons, in which they sleep
at night. A traveller who chooses to adopt a si-
milar mode, may travel very cheap ; or as there
are plenty of inns on the roads, he can be ac-
commodated every night with beds, at a very
reasonable rate. When the emigrant arrives at
Pittsburg or Wheeling, he will find that numbers
of Europeans and Americans are arriving there
every day, and the same causes that operated
against them in the maritime cities, as respects
employment, will, in some degree, have an effect
here ; but as he will have occasion for information,
it would be advisable for him to stop a few days, to
make enquiries. If he find it necessary to des-
cend the Ohio, the best mode of proceeding will
be to enquire for one or more families, who have
intentions of going to the same neighbourhood as
himselfi who may join him in the purchase of an ark,
one of the kind of vessels in which families descend.
These arks are built for sale, for the accommoda-
tion of families descending the river, and for the
conveyance of produce. They are flat-bottomed,

317

and square at the ends, and are all made of the
same dimensions, being fifty feet in length, and
fourteen in breadth ; which last is limited, because
it often happens that they must pass over the falls
at Louisville, when the river is at a low state, at
which time they pass betwixt two rocks in the
Indian schute, only fifteen feet asunder.* These
arks are covered, and are managed by a steering
oar, which can be lifted out of the water. The
usual price is seventy-five dollars for each, which
will accommodate three or four families, as they
carry from twenty-five to thirty tons; and it fre-
quently happens that the ark can be sold for nearly
what it cost, six or eight hundred miles lower down
the river.

After the arrival of the emigrant on the Ohio,
the next step he takes is a very important one : —
much depends on his movement, and it is at that
point when he has the greatest need of counsel and
advice. From Europe until he arrives on the
Ohio, general rules may apply, but now his future
destination depends on his choice, and no general
rule can be given to direct that choice, because
emigrants are of so many different descriptions.

* There are regular pilots resident at Louisville, who con-
duct the "boats over the falls, and deliver them safe at Shippiu^
Port : — they charge two dollars for pilotage.

318

In order that these remarks may have a general
application, the emigrants* shall be considered as
consisting of several classes, the remarks shall be
applied to each class separately, and terminate with
some general observations.

The first class of emigrants may be composed of
labourers, who have no other trade or profession,
and from whose services, more is expected to result
from bodily strength, than from ingenuity or educa-
tion. If a man of this class will work, he has no-
thing to fear in the interior of America : — he pos-
sesses all the requisites for a farmer, excepting skill,
and that he may soon obtain. A great number of
farmers have more land inclosed in fence than
they can well manage : ask one of these the rea-
son, he replies, " I want help." An assistant
enables him to cultivate a portion of his land that
would otherwise become overrun with weeds.
The emigrant cannot expect full wages in the
commencement, but if he be attentive, he may
in one year become so expert as to be entitled
to what is usually paid to husbandmen,, from
twelve to fifteen dollars per month, and board.

But when employment is obtained, the most
difficult thing remains yet to be done. The man
he lives with, and for whom he works, most proba-
bly makes his own cider, a portion of which is dis-

319

tilled into brandy: both these articles are kept,
in considerable quantities, in the farmer's house*
The emigrant is liberally supplied with them, and
can obtain them at a cheap rate elsewhere; but
he must avoid indulging too much, particularly
in the spirits. He is not accustomed to a profu-
sion of this article, and may, by too frequent use,
acquire a habit, that will ruin all his future pros-
pects in life. If his conduct is proper, he may as-
sociate with the sons of the neighbouring farmers,
many of whom know that their ancestors became
proprietors of land from a beginning not more
promising than his : even his employer was pro-
bably the helper to some one formerly. Before
this man can become a complete American farmer,
he must learn a number of things, not connected
with agriculture in some other countries. He must
learn to handle the axe dexterously, as he wall
often be employed to cut down trees. He must
also learn, not only to distinguish the different
species of trees, but also to know by their appear-
ance whether they will suit the purpose for which
they are wanted.

The second class of emigrants to be considered,
are those who have trades or professions, and yet are
too poor to enter into business for themselves. The
primary object of a person of this description is, of
course, employment : the commodity he has to dis-

320

pose of is labour, for which he wants a market. So
much of this is daily brought into the sea-ports by
the arrival of emigrants, that they are always over-
stocked ; lie must look for a better chance : — this
chance the country will afford him. If his trade
or profession be such as is followed in a city, he
may remain two days before he goes to the coun-
try ; if unsuccessful in his enquiries for work, he
ought not to remain longer. During his stay, he
ought to enquire amongst those in his own profes-
sion, where he may hope to obtain employment ;
it is Very likely they may furnish references which
will be very useful to him. In travelling, this
man ought not to be sparing in his enquiries ; he
is not in the least danger of receiving a rude or
an uncivil answer, even if he should address him-
self to a squire, (so justices are called.) It is ex-
pected in America, that every man shall attend to
his own concerns ; and if a man who is out of
work ask for employment, it is considered as a
very natural thing.

He ought to make his situation and profes-
sion known at the taverns where he stops, and
rather to court than to shun conversation with any
that he may find assembled there. He will seldom
or never meet with a repulse, as it gives them
an opportunity of making enquiries respecting

321

the " old country" (the term usually applied to
the British Islands.)

Should he fail in procuring employment at his
own business, he has all the advantages of the first
man, in agriculture. The countries west of the
Alleghany Mountains afford the greatest advan-
tages of any part of the United States, to emi-
grants of this or the preceding description ; and
when they arrive at the head of the Ohio, the fa-
cility of descending that river opens to them a vast
field, in which labour must, for ages to come, find a
good market, as the vast tract of fine land yet un-
settled will induce such an avidity for farming, that
labourers, or men who have trades or professions,
will adopt that line of life whenever they can raise
the means of purchasing land. For this reason a
very long time must elapse before there can be
such a redundancy of labour as to reduce its value.
Some of the trades that are carried on in the large
towns are enumerated at page 296.

The man possessed of some property, say from
200 to 1000 pounds, has more need of cautionary
advice than either of the former. But no know-
ledge can be conveyed to him, that will be so valu-
able as what results from his own experience and
observation. He is advised to deposit his money in
a bank, or vest it in government stock immediately

322

on landing. His next object is to determine in
what line of life he shall employ himself and his
capital. In this he should avoid being too hasty.
If it is known that he has money, he will probably
be tempted to enter into speculations, both by his
own countrymen and others. Designing men are
much more likely to hold out such temptations
than men with honest and honourable intentions ;
and until he has acquired a competent knowledge
of men and things, it is dangerous for him to em-
bark in business. It should have been premised,
that he ought, if possible, to take with him letters
of introduction to some persons in the United
States, experienced in matters of business, whom
he might occasionally consult. If he decide on
mercantile business, or keeping a store, he ought
by all means to procure a situation in a merchant's
counting-house or in a store for one year at least :
even if with only trifling wages, he will still be a
gainer. If he adopt agriculture, he ought to obtain,
if possible, an assistant who knows the management
of crops, and the mode of working the ground : such
a person will be necessary, at least for two years.
If he should not succeed in procuring such a man, he
must keep on good terms with his neighbours, who
will cheerfully tell him what is necessary to be
done. In purchasing his land, he ought not to
depend entirely on his own judgment, unless he
has made an extensive tour through the country,

323

and attentively considered the subject of land. He
will find some remarks applicable to that subject
amongst those addressed to a farmer.

In a great many trades or professions, the emi-
grant who has a capital and a trade or profession,
may meet with less difficulty than any of the
preceding, if he act with caution. Much in this
case depends on making a judicious choice in de-
termining where to establish his business. In most
trades, the country beyond the Alleghany Mountains,
say Ohio, Kentucky, or Tennessee, hold out greater
advantages than the rest of the Union, the profits
in business being greater, and the expence of living
much less : the climate also is more suitable to
European constitutions, as the extreme betwixt the
heat of summer and cold of winter is much less
than in the Atlantic States. In some trades he
may be expected to keep journeymen, perhaps
Americans, from whom he is advised not to exact
that servility of deportment expected from subor-
dinates in other countries. He may be faithfully
served without it. He loses nothing by this, as
those who are his employers or customers will make
no such exactions from him.

There are several objects in America that pre-
sent themselves to the capitalist, in which he may
vest his property with perfect security, and if he act

S24

judiciously, be will have no reason to complain of
his profits. The most prominent object that offers
itself is land. Of this, immense tracts may always
be had, and in particular from the government of
the United States. The price is two dollars per
acre ; one-fourth of the money to be paid down,
the rest by instalments in five years. The degree
of advantage to be derived from land purchases,
depends in a great measure on the judgment and
foresight of the speculator, to whom the country
west of the Alleghanies offers the best field. A
very great majority of the emigrants to that part
have only farming in view, and the establishment
of towns does not keep pace with the increase of
interspersed population. There are a great many
places, which, from the nature of things, must be-
come the scites of towns : a person of judgment
and observation would easily point them out. The
formation of a number of proximate settlements has
an invariable tendency to raise the price of land in
their vicinity : for this reason a rich man, who
purchases a large tract of land on speculation, con-
sults his best interests by a liberal policy towards
those wrho first settle on his property. Let it be
supposed that he purchases four miles square ; this
is sixteen square miles or sections, or 10,240 acres,
which for cash costs 16,896 dollars, or *£3801 12s.
English money. On this property he ought to
possess a scite convenient for a village, and he

32J

should also have a water-fall. If he lays the
whole out in quarter sections, he will have sixty-
four of 160 acres each. Let him layout the vil-
lage, and sell, in the first instance, only the interme-
diate subdivisions, at moderate terms and liberal
credit: the reserved subdivisions, together with
the village lots, will in a short time rise to a very
great value. The next object of importance is
coal, and although the investment of capital in that
way may not so speedily produce profit as in land,
yet it holds out great advantages. It has already
been stated that coal is abundant in the western
country, and that a considerable portion of that
region is prairie : it has also been observed, that
the existence of a bed of coal scarcely enhances
the price of the land under which it lies. In most
parts of the Atlantic States, fifty years ago, one
acre of cleared land was worth five of woodland.
Since that time innumerable towns and villages
have been established, and the old cities and vil-
lages have increased. Every city or town may be
considered as the centre of a circle, within the area
of which one acre of woodland is now of much more
value than the same extent of the finest meadow.
These areas are continually increasing, and conse-
quently the aggregate value of timber. At a pe-
riod not very remote the larger cities must resort
to the use of coal, and nothing is more certain than

326

that a time will come when that article will be as
valuable to America as it is now to England.

The emigrant who goes to America with the
intention of applying himself to farming, should
take with him some seed wheat of the best kinds,
and if he can procure it, perhaps the Syrian wheat .
(Triticum compositum) might be worth a trial. It
has a much better chance of answering in America
than in England, and particularly south of 40 de-
grees of latitude ; also a small quantity of lucerne,
saintfoin, and vetches : either the seeds or the roots
of the two former, but the roots would be prefer-
able. It might also be adviseable to take a small
bag of hay seeds from some of the best meadows.
Farming implements can be had in any part of the
United States, well adapted to the different pur-
poses for which they are wanted. In determining
a situation, he has the choice of any climate from
latitude 29 to 44 degrees, comprehending the re-
gions suitable for the culture of sugar, cotton, and
grain. If his views are governed by the determi-
nation to adopt any particular culture, he will of
course settle in the region suitable. If sugar, he
will go south of 31 1°; if cotton, south of 36° : for
corn the most agreeable is from 36° to 41°, as fur-
ther north the severity and length of the winters
render the climate less desirable. A farmer, on
settling in America, ought not rashly to set up his

ST/

opinions or former practices against those of the
old settlers. Many things which may appear to
him at first to be wrong or unnecessary, will be
found, on farther experience, both right and expe-
dient ; but if he cultivates the good will of his
neighbours, and follows their advice, he will not go
wrong. He will soon find the succession of crops
and the mode of culture vary much from what he
has experienced in England, and that a differently
modified climate, and a sun more nearly vertical,
greatly change the order of the things to which he
has been accustomed. He will find his rye harvest
to commence in June, and that of his wheat soon
after : the oats follow next, and afterwards, if he
have a meadow, his grass will be ready for the
scythe ; then come his potatoes, and lastly his
Indian corn. If the emigrant purchases and settles
tiponwhat is called wild land, one of his first cares
ought to be to plant a peach and apple orchard,
and he ought to plant the two sorts alternate, say
one peach betwixt two apple trees, and not plant
the apple trees less than thirty feet asunder. The
peach tree soon comes to maturity, and is short
lived : they will become of little value by the time
the apple trees are in want of room. In the woody
region, the axe is for some time the chief imple-
ment in the hands of the settler, and he feels a con-
siderable degree of repugnance at the destruction
of so much fine timber ? but this soon subsides. If

328

he has the courage to proceed as far west as th<
Illinois, the North-west Territories, or to the west
of the Mississippi, the prairies afford him the means
of settling without much trouble.

In the early part of the settlement of the rich
countries beyond the Alleghanies, agues were very
prevalent, and it will perhaps be found, that all
countries in a state of nature are liable to this dis-
ease in the proportion of their fertility, which has a
tendency to produce it, from the vast quantity of
vegetable matter which goes to decay in autumn.
As this applies generally in those regions, the new
settler has no means of avoiding the consequence
but by precautions and preventives : but as it has
also a local influence, he may, by a judicious choice
of a situation, render himself and family less lia-
ble to its attacks. As the first settlers have the
choice of the whole country, it is very natural that
they should adopt the alluvion of the rivers, both
on account of the superior fertility of the soil, and
the facilities it gives to the transportation of pro-
duce ; and many in so doing sacrifice their health
to their appai'ent interest. It must be admitted,
that some of the valleys in which the rivers flow
are as healthy as the uplands ; but this depends on
whether the river overflows its banks or not, or on
the existence or non-existence of stagnant water in
the neighbourhood. As to precautions, the erm>

S29

grant is apprized that in these countries the
dews are veiy copious, and begin to fall even be-
fore sunset. Let him avoid as much as possible
exposure either to this or rain; or if unavoidably-
exposed, he must take off his wet clothes as soon
as possible ; and if he has flannel shirts, in order
to change after copious perspiration, he will find
benefit in them. An important consideration in
this respect is the quality of the water used in his
family ; of course, the purer this is the better.
The settler cannot be expected to be capable of
analyzing it, but he may discover the presence of
sulphur, iron, an acid, or an alkali, by tests always
in his power to procure. Sulphur may be detected
by laying a piece of bright silver in the water,
which turns black if thai substance is held in solu-
tion. A little of the inner bark of any of the
oaks, infused in a glassful, turns the water black,
if iron is present. Paper,' stained blue by the pe-
tals of almost any flower of that colour being rub-
bed upon it, turns green by being dipped in water
impregnated with alkali, or red if an acid.

The settler who is accustomed to malt liquor
may, with very little trouble, brew his own ale.
Barley is cultivated west of the Alleghanies, and
hops grow wild in abundance : — the use of this
beverage is supposed to be a preventive to the ague.
Almost every family has a supposed cure for this

Y

830

complaint ; and every one who visits or sees those
affected has a favourite remedy, all differing from
each other; but , the physicians, in the Western
Country, treat it with bark and laudanum : of these
the emigrant ought to lay in a sufficiency to ad-
minister to his family in case of need.

It has already been observed, that the emigrants
to this country are almost of every nation in Europe,
but it is a remarkable and striking fact, that the
Germans, Dutch, and Swiss succeed much better
than tho^e from any other country. This is not so
much owing to greater industry or economy, as to
the more judicious mode they adopt in settling.
In general, before these people emigrate they form
associations, lay down their plans, and send an agent
over in whom they can confide. He purchases for
them a suitable extent of land, and prepares the
way : when their arrangements are made, they
move over in one body. This system has always
been followed by these people, and the conse-
quences are visible in almost every part of the
United States, but more particularly in the states
of New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, in
all parts of which they are in possession of the best
lands. The appearance of comfort, ease, and in-
dependence exhibited by one of these little colo-
nies is so visible that the traveller who does not
perceive it at first sight, must be very deficient in

331

discernment. Some of the colonies of this kind,
besides the tie of common interest, have another
bond of union, which is a similarity of sentiment
and belief in their religious opinions ; this, in some
instances, has operated as a cause for regulating
their system of colonization : but perhaps that
which has most generally influenced them is the
circumstance of their language not being the gene-
ral language of the United States, an inconveni-
ence much less felt by a colony than by an isolated
family ; but let the cause be what it may, the effect
is very manifest, and may be easily accounted for.
In the early settlement of any particular district of
?iew country, * its progress in improvements is slow,
until a grist and a saw mill are erected, after which
the change is very rapid. Every planter in the
vicinity, by the aid of the saw mill, is able to erect
a handsome frame-house. The grist mill enables
him to convert his wheat into flour fit for a market,
and he boldly engages and employs hands to assist
him in converting the forest into fields, yielding
luxuriant crops. These two kinds of mills are
the most necessary objects in a new colony ; but
there are many others, such as roads, bridges,
&c. all of which are much sooner effected by a co-
lony having an union of interest, and of course an
union of action.

* The term nciv country signifies one newly settled.

y2

332

The rapidity vvitli which one of these colonies
acquires wealth or property will appear by a com-
parison of their present state with their situation
when they first sat down ; and for the sake of ex-
ample, one of those societies shall be selected, and
a review taken of their progress. This is the
Harmonist Society, situated about 20 miles from
Pittsburg. They came from Wirtemburg in Ger-
many, where finding themselves oppressed and per-
secuted by a church and state union, they deter-
mined to flee to a land where no human authority
would dare to insult the Deity, by arrogating to it-
self the right of dictating how He shall be worship-
ped, and where they are too wise or too honest to
suppose they can force belief. This country is
America; and in the year 1803 they sent George
Kapp and others', as deputies, who fixed on a situa-
tion about twenty miles from Pittsburg.

In 1801<, the society embarked at Amsterdam in
three ships, two of which arrived at Philadelphia,
and the other at Baltimore. In the November of
that year forty families removed with Mr. Rapp,
and before winter they built nine log-houses. In
the spring of 1805, they were followed by Mty
more families, making in all ninety. The whole
of their property was about 20,000 dollars : this
they laid out in the purchase of 9000 acres of land,
which, together with their mental and physical

powers, in the spring of 1805 formed the whole of
their possessions. In the summer of this year they
built 46 log-houses, a large barn, a grist mill, and
cleared 205 acres of land.

" In 1806, a large inn was built, partly of stone ;
a frame-barn, 100 feet long ; a blue dyer's shop ;
an oil-mill : they also established a tannery. 358
acres of land were cleared.

" In 1807 they erected a number of buildings;
amongst which was a saw-mill and a brewery ; 400
acres of land were cleared, and four acres of vines
were planted.

" In 1808 they built a meeting-house of brick,
together with dwelling-houses and stables, and a
bridge over the Conaquenesing creek, 220 feet«
long. A considerable quantity of land was
cleared.

" In the year 1809 they erected a fulling-mill,
an oil-mill, a mill for breaking hemp, a grist mill,
and a large brick warehouse, with a wine cellar
beneath, arched over. The produce of this year
was — 4o00 bushels of rye, 4500 bushels of wheat,
6000 bushels7 of Indian corn, 10,000 bushels of
potatoes, 5000 bushels of oats, 4000 lbs. of flax and
hemp, 100 bushels of barley brewed into beer, and
50 gallons of sweet oil from the white poppy.

334<

" In 1810 they began the manufacture of broad-
cloth, from the wool of their Merino sheep ; fixed
up a carding machine, two spinning Jennies, and
built a factory for twenty looms.

" In the year 1811 the property of the society
was estimated as follows : —

Dollars.

9000 acres of land, with improvements, 90,000

Stock of provisions for one year for 800 persons,. . 25,000
Stock of goods, spirits, manufactures, leather, im-
plements of husbandry, Sec. &c 50,000

Dwelling-houses, 18,000

Mills, machinery, and public buildings, 21 ,000

Horses, cattle, hogs, and poultry. 10,000

1000 sheep, one-third of them Merinoes, of which
one ram cost 1000, 6,000

220,000

The progress made by a small colony of Swiss,
who settled in the Indiana Territory about the
same time as the society at Harmony, is not less
rapid. It consisted of eleven families, who united
in forming a vineyard, from wThich, in 1811, they
made more than 2000 gallons of wine.

CATALOGUE

OF SOME OF

THE MORE RARE OR VALUABLE PLANTS

Discovered in the Neighbourhood of St. Louis and on the
Missouri.

Leersia Lenticularis, Woods, American Bottom, St. Louis.

Aristida Pal/ens, Hills on the Merrimac.

Stipa Juncea, Prairies, Aricaras to the Mandans.

Membranacea, Fort Mandan. Probably not a Stipa.

Aira Brevifolia, Great Prairie.

Festuca Spicata, common on the Missouri.

Cynosurus secundus, Mississippi bluffs.

Hordeum Jubatum, valleys near the Aricaras.

*Allionia Ovata, banks of the Missouri, above the Big Bend.

Linearis,

r bluffs near the Aricara village.
Htrsuta,

Plantago Lagopus, Alluvion of the Missouri, common.

Elongata, near the Maha village.

Eleagnus Argentea, bluffs near the Mandan nation.
Hippophae Argentea, Mahas, Platte, Ottoes, Missouri.
Pulmonaria Sibirica, high up the Merrimac river.
Lanceolata, opposite the Aricara village.

* These three species of Allionia together with the two
•pedes of Burtonia, have the singular property of flowering in
the night: the flowers burst forth just at sun-set, and perish
at its risingr.

330

Batschia Canescens, prairie about St. I ouis.

Gmelini, American Bottom, Illinois,

L/mgiflora, first occurs near the mouth of the Platte.

on ascending the Missouri.
Onosmodium Molte, about St. Louis.
Dodecatheon JMeadia, prairie behind St. Louis.
Phacelia Fimbriata, at Point L'Abbadie, on the Missouri, with

white Jlowrrs.
Cynoglossum Glomcratum, Big Bend, Missouri.
Solarium Heterandrum, about the Aricara village.
Kibes Aurcum, Little Cedar Island, Missouri.
Sahola Depressa, on the Missouri, near the mouth of Knife

River.
Hydrocotyle Atnbigua, rocks on the Mississippi, near Her-

culaneum.
Selinum acuute, on the alluvion of the Missouri, from the river

Naduet to the Mahas.
Scseli Divaricatum, Missouri Bluffs, at the mouth of the L'eau

qui court.
Linuni Lewisii, on Cannon Ball river.

Rigidum, on the Missouri bluffs, common.

Yucca Angustifvlia, Missouri bluffs, opposite the mouth of

Papillon Creek.

Lilium Catesbcei, prairie about St. Louis.

Umbellatum, bluffs near the Mandan village.

Rumex Vcnosus, Big bend, Missouri.

Gaura Coccinea, }■ ' ■ .

-. , :„. ,. > bluffs Aricara village.

Oenothera Albtcauhs, }

Macrocarpa, near St. Louis.
)neai

Eriogonvm Pauciflorum, )near the Minetaree villages on the

Sericeum, ^ Missouri, both growing together.

Cactus Viviparus, Missouri bluffs, above the Poncar village.
Bartonia Ornata.

a Ornata, )
•- Auda, ^

on the bluffs above Knife River.

Geum Triflorum, head waters of Blackbird Creek.

337

Potentilla Arguta, bluffs above the Aricara village.

Ranunculus Mullifidus, in stagnant pools near the Sepulchre
bluffs,

Stachys Fceniculum, Missouri bluffs.

Capraria Multifida, American Bottom, Illinois.

Martynia Proboscidea, St. Louis.

Penstemon Erianthera, common on the bluffs from the Big-
Bend to the Aricara village.

August? folia, near the Mine^aree village.

Glabra, alluvion of the Missouri, above the Big Bend,

Castilleja Sessiliflora, Upper Louisiana.

Myagrum Argenteum, on limestone rocks, Missouri.

Erysimum Lanceolatum, "\ a connecting link between Erysi-
or, > mum and Cheiranthus, used as

Cheiranthus Erysimoides,j medicine by the Aricaras.

Cleome Pinnata, on the prairies between the Aricaras and
Maudans.

Cristaria Coccinea, on the bluffs of the Missouri, above the

L'eau qui Court.

Hebiscus Militaris, 1 . . n . »,,. , .

C American Bottom, Illinois.
■ — Manilwt, \ .

Ervum Multijlorum, opposite the Sepulchre bluffs, Missouri*

Viccia Siipulacca, Upper Louisiana.

Lathyrus Decaphyllus, sand alluvion of the Missouri, above

the Big Bend.
Lupinus Pusillus, bluffs near Little Cedar Island.
Amorpha Fruticosa, common on the Missouri and Mississippi.

Microphylla, abundant near the Aricara village.

Canescens, on the prairie four miles west of St. Louis.

Astragalus Racemosus, ~\ on the bluffs opposite the mouth of

Triphyllus, > Papillon Creek, and at the Aricara

Carnosus, j villages.

Dalea Ayrea, on the prairies six miles below the L'eau qui

Court.
— — Laxifiora, Aricara village.

3JS

Psoralea Cuspidata, on the bluffs near Chienne river.

Longi folia, near the Sepulchre bluffs. Probably not

a Psoralea,

EUiptica, sand hills near the Big Bend.

Esculentu, bluffs near the mouth of Negro Fork, Mer-

rnnac river.
Tenuijlora, sandhills, Big" Bend.

Cytisus Rhombifolius, at the mouth of Chienne river, and on

arid places near the Aricara village.
Soncftus Pulchcllus, banks of the Missouri, common.
Troximum Cuspidatum, common on the prairies between the

Mahas and Mandans.
Eupatorium Altissimum, Missouri and Mississippi, common.
Oxytropis Lambertii, on the bluffs from the Maha village t»

the Poncars.
Artemisia Dracunculus,
Cana,

— Campesiris,

— Santonica,

common on the Missouri.

Arnica fulgens, prairie from the Aricaras to the Mandans.

Cineraria Integrifolia, common on the Missouri.

Erigeron Hirsutum, Aricara village.

• — Divaricatum, common on the Missouri.

Senecio Pauper cuius, prairie below the L'eau qui Court.

Aster Argenteus, prairie behind St. Louis, abundant.

Amellus Villosus,

. Spinulosus

Galardia Acaulis, on the Missouri near the Aricara village.
Probably a Chaptalia.

Rudbeckia Columnaris, bluffs above the Aricara village. Most
probably not a Rudb&ckia, and ought to form a new
genus.

Iva Axillaris, about Chienne river.

Cheilanthes Dealbata and Vestita, Manitou rocks on the Mis-
souri.

v common on the bluffs of the Missouri.

339

The following letters on animalcula infusoria and
the physiology of plants, although not apparently
connected with this work, are yet of a nature so
curious and interesting, that having obtained per-
mission from the author (Mr. By water), I insert
them. In the study of both those subjects we be-
come acquainted with a great number of pheno-
mena not to be explained upon any principles
hitherto known. It is evident, therefore, that the
right path has not yet been found. Mr. By water
opens a fresh avenue : whether it will lead to the
object, or terminate in a labyrinth, time and future
discoveries may determine ; but having been pre-
sent, along with others, when he has been engaged
in his researches, and witnessed the results, I can
state with confidence, that his conclusions, founded
thereon, appeared to me far less improbable than
what an explanation of the true formation of the
corals and coralines could have done to the most
enlightened on those subjects one hundred years
ago.

310

To Mr. BRADBURY.
Dear Sir,

Having mentioned to you the general
character of a paper I had written for the Philoso-
phical Journal, I was anxious it should have been
published before you left this country, that I might
have furnished you with a few copies, for the future
consideration of you and your botanical friends in
America; but am sorry to inform you that the editor
received it too late for the whole to be published in
the last Number : I have therefore availed myself
of the opportunity offered by your protracted stay, to
present you with an abstract of the whole document.

The first part of the communication chiefly re-
lates to the different kinds of animalcules, and has
appeared in the Philosophical Magazine ; conse-
quently I have made it as concise as I possibly
could : but as the latter part of the paper contains
some remarks on the principles of vegetation, I
beg leave to call your particular attention to this
part, as the view I have taken of the subject may
lead to an investigation that will prove useful to
your future botanical researches ; and wishing you
every success in your further travels, I remain,

Sir,
Your's most truly,

John Bywater.

Liverpool, May 2Jth, 1817.

OBSERVATIONS

ON THE

NATURE OF ANIMALCULES,

PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY.

1 hat many of the wonderful facts related of ani-
malcules owe their strange and mysterious character
to mistaken views respecting the real nature of
these beings, is extremely evident, as they lead to
conclusions at variance with themselves, and con-
trary to that simplicity and correctness of design
we find displayed throughout every other part of
the visible creation. The opinions which have
been adopted, and the facts related of the hydra,
or fresh water polypes, are so peculiarly wonderful,
that even the writers of these well authenticated
stories seem almost afraid they are passing the
bounds of credibility by the relation. That these
writers should have been astonished at the pheno-
mena attending these beings, appears very natural,
when we take into the account that they adopted
the generally received opinion, and considered

312

each polype as one distinct and complete animal.
After the race of polypes was discovered, the atten-
tion of the curious was quickly called to the inves-
tigation of the subject, and they soon collected a
great variety of facts, that seemed at variance with
every well known principle in the animal economy.

Thus we are told on the best authority, that
polypes exist after they have been turned inside
out, like a turned glove, and that if one polype is
thrust into the body of another, they form a union,
and become one complete being. It is also assert-
ed, that after they are cut into as many pieces as
fancy can^ suggest, each part quickly becomes a
perfect being, like the parent, or stock from which
it was taken ; and that, when the heads of several
are cut off, the heads and trunks may be brought
indiscriminately into contact, and the head of one
will become united to the trunk of another, and
perform all the functions of the former head. Now
these results, when considered agreeably to the ge-
nerally received opinion, certainly appear mysteri-
ous, and contrary to every well established principle
in the animal economy. Having investigated this
branch of natural history, by making a great num-
ber of experiments and observations on the animal-
cula infusoria, I discovered the larger kind to be
aggregate animalcules, or congeries of still smaller
animals, living in lumps of mucilaginous matter,

343

derived in all probability from the decaying vege-
tables and their own secretions, to which they im-
parted, by an instinctive influence, an organization,
which enables them to move these mucilaginous
lumps by their aggregate force for all the purposes
of pleasure and existence. This principle of ag-
gregation, and their instinctive influence to orga-
nize their secretions, I have supposed to extend
through the whole race of animalcules, and that the
extraordinary phenomena attending polypes may
be accounted for by principles of this nature.

We knowr when a polype is cut into pieces, each
portion becomes a perfect being in a little time ;
this result is incompatible with the animal func-
tions they evidently possess, if wTe consider them
as single and complete animals, and in all proba-
bility induced M. Buffon and others to adopt the
still more vague and improbable notion that ani-
malcules are merely organic particles, and not liv-
ing beings : but if wre suppose polypes are aggre-
gations or congeries of still smaller animals, we
may account for these wonderful phenomena in a
very easy manner, for wThen they are cut to pieces,
each part must contain some of these extremely
small animals, which will naturally produce, by
their instinctive energies, an aggregate animacule
like the parent stock, being the form best calculated
for their future purposes of existence. That the

31i

whole tribe of the larger animalcules are congeries
of the smaller ones, will be rendered evident if
they are illuminated by an oblique light from the
sun, as they appear to be an assemblage of scin-
tilating points, each posessing distinct powers of
motion. The results that led to the above conclu-
sions were obtained during the late summer, but
in the succeeding autumn and winter, others were
obtained, that are equally favourable to this mode
of reasoning. About the latter end of September,
some water was procured from a stagnant pool, co-
vered with a large quantity of green matter,
which appeared to be a species of conferva : this
I anticipated would furnish a great number of
interesting objects for the microscope. By exa-
mining a part of this water with the microscope,
it was found to be crowded with a vast number of
the enchelis, or small portions of green matter,
endowed with a degree of animation evidently de-
rived from the small animals they contained, which
have generally been mistaken for intestines. These
aggregate animalcules appear rather more ellipti-
cal than an egg, and each end is nearly transpa-
rent, but generally the middle part seems the
abode of about twenty or more small animals, that
swing from side to side when these aggregations
are in motion, and are clearly the cause by which
they move from one place to another.

34<5

When the small animals increased in number,
the middle of these mucilaginous masses, or what
I have termed aggregate animalcules, swelled
out till they became almost round, at the same
time losing a great share of their activity. It was
in this inactive state they united in large quanti-
ties, and floated without motion on the surface of
the water ; yet they remained in this apparently
inanimate state but a short period, for this matter
gradually lost its green vegetative appearance, and
became a browm mucilaginous body, that assumed
new characters. It was out of this mucilaginous mat-
ter that numerous aggregate animalcules, of various
kinds, derived a more animated state of existence;
but the gradual change of a large portion of it into
different clusters of the polypes, termed vorticella,
rendered this part of the process highly interesting,
as it strongly supports the idea that all the larger
kind of animalcula infusoria are congeries of small
animals, living in organized portions of mucila-
ginous matter.

Nor is it an uninteresting fact, that during the
winter, the green vegetative appearance, which
seemed to reside in the mucilaginous part of what
I have termed aggregate animalcules, varied with
the weather. When it became mild, this greenness
increased, but as quickly decreased when the
weather became colder, giving strong indications

z

S16

of the vegetable as well as animal nature of these
little creatures.

This two-fold character is certainly curious; but
it is manifested in a stronger manner by the pro-
duction known among the natives of the East In-
dies by the name of " Lalan lout," or sea grass ;
as its green appearance is such, that strangers mis-
take it for grass, yet when caught in the hand,
it glides through the fingers, and withdraws it-
self into the sand, leaving an impression of its
mucilaginous nature.

From these circumstances, it does not appear
incompatible with the animal and vegetable pro-
cesses to exist and go on together. May we not
therefore conclude, with considerable probability,
that they exist and proceed together throughout
the whole vegetable process, as innumerable ani-
malcules, similar to most I have mentioned, can
be obtained from all young vegetable matter, when
subject to infusion.

Among the class of sensitive plants, we have a
peculiarly strong manifestation of a vital principle,
and it is worthy of notice, that it is not that con-
nected energy which runs through the whole
frame, as in the animal economy bu appears to
be distinct and contiguous portion, of vitality,
which are successively brought into action -? for the

Sl<7

contraction tjiese plants display on being touched
is not instantaneously communicated to every part,
but seems to depend upon a succession of vital
energies, which gradually run through the dif-
ferent parts of the vegetable. That the vitality of
vegetables is somewhat like the vitality aggregate
animalcules possess, is very probable \ for some of
them, like polypes, may be cut to pieces, and yet
each piece will retain the power of forming or re-
producing a complete vegetable. Having sup-
posed that a vast number of extremely small ani-
mals live and extend their race with the vegetable
growth, may we not also conceive it possible, that
the beautiful forms and exquisite designs fchat ob-
tain throughout the vegetable kingdom, originate
from their directing influence. This opinion
would certainly appear more satisfactory, if we
could detect these small agents in the various parts
of vegetables ; but they are so extremely minute,
that we can only just detect them, even under
their aquatic character, when placed in the most
favourable light for examination ; therefore we can-
not expect to detect them readily in vegetables, on
account of their opacity.

Besides, the power of moving from one place to
another, by which we detect aquatic animacules,
is unnecessary to them, as they are in all probabi-
lity fixed to their station like polypes in coralines,

; z 2

3 IS

and supplied with food by the vegetable organiza-
tion they have instinctively established. I am well
aware that it will be difficult to conceive how such
a vast collection of extremely small animals can
act in concert, and direct by their influence the
extended organization of a vegetable; but in the
beautiful race of coral ines, we have an ample dis-
play of this apparently very mysterious principle.
This class of organized bodies have such a close
resemblance to vegetables, that they wrere at one
period arranged by naturalists in the vegetable
kingdom ; but now it is well known they are the
production or organization of an innumerable race
of small animals which inhabit them, and act in
concert for one general purpose. Although we
have the outward form of vegetables displayed
among this class of bodies, yet their internal or-
ganization bears little resemblance to the organic
structure of vegetables ; but the reason for this
difference will appear evident when we consider
that coralines are placed in a fluid medium, which
supplies their numerous inhabitants w7ith every ne-
cessary food. The water of the ocean, by its
constant motion, is continually passing and repass-
ing the receptacles in wrhich these small animals
reside, and from which they can extend their
feelers to collect their food; therefore any peculiar
internal organization is not required to supply
them with nourishment; but the numerous class of
small beings we have supposed to inhabit and ex-

319

tend their race with the growth of vegetables, re-
ceive their supply of food chiefly from the roots :
hence the necessity of that curious organization
by which the vegetable process is carried for-
ward, and they are supplied with the means of
subsistence.

But it is not in the race of coralines alone that
we find a collected body of small agents acting
in concert for a general purpose ; for the beauti-
fully branching vorticella, which we obtain by ve-
getable infusion, are evidently the formation of a
congeries of small animals, which, in all proba-
bility, lived in the vegetables until they were li-
berated by the process of infusion. That vege-
tables are possessed of vitality, seems to be a fact
that scarcely admits a doubt, as the whole of the
vegetable phenomena point to a principle of this
nature ; for who can view the spontaneous mo-
tion of various leaves, and the quick contraction
manifested by others, when simply touched with
any solid substance ; the opening and shutting of
different fiVrwers, at the approach of fine and foul
weather, while others open and shut at stated,
periods, as well as numerous other phenomena
of a similar nature, without feeling a strong con-
viction that vitality is intimately connected with
the vegetable economy. These and many other
results that attend the vegetable process, will be
very imperfectly explained without the aid of such

350

a principle. Let us in imagination follow the ve-
getable changes that take place after a seed has
been planted in the ground, until it shews a group
of well blown flowers, and then endeavour to ex-
plain, by chemical and mechanical operations, how
this additional matter attains those inimitable co-
lours and that exquisite form and design it evidently
does, and we shall almost be compelled to refer
these changes to the directing energies of an in-
stinctive intelligence. Let us also view the simple
vet ingenious contrivances in many parts of flow-
ers, for the purposes of fructification., and then
try to explain their simple yet delicate mechanism
by the undesigning energies of chemical aflinities,
and we shall discover how inadequate they are for
the explanation of any such curious productions.
Nor are these results better explained by refer-
ring them to a vitality which has been supposed
common to the whole plant, as the facts I have
mentioned show that the vitality of vegetables
does not depend on any general or connected
vitality that is common to the whole vegetable,
but consists of distinct portions, and is of a si-
milar nature to the vitality of aggregate ani-
malcules : consequently, if we admit that vege-
tables are the receptacles in which myriads of
small agents reside, these difficulties will be con-
siderably removed ; for to the influence of these
agents we may fairly attribute the peculiar phe-

nomena of vegetation. If this analogical reason-
ing should prove conclusive, we shall find an ex-
tensive and promising field laid open for future
inquiry, which may ultimately lead to practical
deductions still more interestingly connected with
the sciences of botany and agriculture.

To Mr. BRADBURY.

Liverpool, July )6th, 18 17-
Dear Sir,

My communication to you on the prin-
ciples of vegetable physiology contained some new
opinions, chiefly resting on the evidence of what
I considered strong analogies ; but since that time,
several new results have been obtained, which
place these opinions on a more solid foundation.

Having seen it observed by different writers,
that the small capsules of the farina fecundas burst
when they come in contact with water, and throw
out a quantity of variously described matter, I was
induced to make some microscopical experiments,

S52

under an impression they contained animalcules,
or would exhibit strong marks of vitality, as they
seem to be the consummation of the vegetable
process.

In these experiments my expectations were not
disappointed, as the farina of most flowers give
out an abundance of animalcules, somewhat simi-
lar to the very small ones we obtain in such vast
numbers by the process of infusion.

These results were obtained by putting a drop
of water on a slip of glass, placed under the mi-
croscope, and then dropping a little farina into
the water ; for in a few seconds, a violent internal
motion commenced in the capsules, and they burst,
emitting a quantity of glutinous looking matter,
that manifested a high degree of animation, and
presented some very curious objects for the mi-
croscope. Tn order to insure this beautiful va-
riety, the sun must be bright, and the capsules
so illuminated by an oblique light, as to give
them a glittering appearance, and the water a dark
blue colour.

When this is done, most of the farina, particu-
larly that of the geraniums, will be seen to throw
out silvery streams of beautifully animated matter.
Sometimes this matter will issue in straight lines,

like streams of light, from which small portions
or animalcules will detach themselves, and float
at>out in various directions. From other capsules
these small animals are emitted almost on every
side, and render the water a sheet of scintilating
matter.

When this sparkling matter is highly magnified,
the animalcules appear like small opaque bodies,
writhing about, and in some cases floating down a
stream they create by the force with which they
quit the farina. One of these capsules becomes
a beautiful microscopic object, when the small ani-
mals issue with such force as to re-act upon the
capsule, and make it cross the field of view, as it
leaves behind an animated stream. These pecu-
liar results will certainly afford an extensive field
for microscopical inquiries ; but when connected
with the new views of vegetable physiology, per-
haps they partake of a higher interest, as the cir-
cumstances attending these discoveries evidently
show, that small animals not only exist in, and ex-
tend their race with, vegetables, but in all proba-
bility are the real sources of vegetable life. Tliat
these isolated collections of small beings are the
chief agents in forming, by their secretions and
instinctive influence, the embryo of a new plant,
does not appear improbable ; for if an accumula-
tion of them can construct such delicate vegetable

35*

formation as the branching vorticella, when acting
under their aquatic character, why may we not
suppose them capable of instinctively constructing
the embryo of a new vegetable, which is to be
the abode of their future generations.

By the developement of one simple fact, we are
often led directly, or by some imposing analogy,
to the knowledge of many others. The discovery
that the capsules of the farina contained numerous
small animals, suggested the idea that similar
agents might be detected in the other parts of ve-
getables, though probably without any apparent
motion. This supposition was found consistent
with experiment ; for if the delicate leaves of
flowers and vegetables are highly magnified and
illuminated, numerous minute cylindrical opaque
bodies, similar to those we obtain from the farina,
are found embedded in almost every physical point
of the leaves : a result which points out the proba-
bility that these small agents might be detected in
the sap and juices of plants in a more active state.

The correctness of this inference is likewise
readily established. If the juices of vegetables
are pressed out, and examined upon a slip of
glass, we may observe they abound with numerous
small bodies, like those embedded in the leaves,
which writhe about in a most animated manner 5

S55

thus proving by experiment what had been inferred
only by analogy.

If, agreeably to this view of the subject, we
contemplate the grandeur of an extensive forest,
or even the more humble, yet not less pleasing va-
riety of a beautifully enamelled meadow, and as-
sociate with this contemplation the idea that every
leaf ard flower is the habitation of myriads of
sentient beings, we may perceive the end of that
benevolence which seems to clothe the earth with
herbs and flowers in such luxuriant profusion.

Nor is the benevolence of this vast design more
conspicuous than its wisdom ; for had these count-
less myriads of little beings floated in every di-
rection through the atmosphere in search of food,
their excessive numbers would have counteracted
the enjoyments of almost every other part of the
animal creation ; but under their present character,
they enjoy the light and air of heaven without
giving the least annoyance, and are supplied with
food by the general laws of matter, acting on a
curious organization they have instinctively esta-
blished.

Having detected these little agents in the farina,
and found them embedded in almost every physi-
cal point of a vegetable ; having also completely

recognized their activity in the various juices of
plants, it may be asked how far the different soils
partake of this animating character, as the inquiry
may lead to results intimately connected with the
best interests of agriculture. To examine any
soil agreeably to this view of the subject, it is ne-
cessary to place a little water on a slip of glass, or
some transparent body, and drop a small portion
of the soil into the water, and then we shall be
enabled to observe what comparative quantity of
these agents are given out by each soil, as they
display sufficient activity to be discovered when
the solution is stirred with any pointed body.
From this assemblage of facts, we have the strong-
est evidence that the process of vegetation chiefly
depends on the secretions and instinctive influence
of this numerous class of agents. It may be diffi-
cult to conceive how they direct such an exten-
sive process, yet it is equally difficult to compre-
hend the nature of that directing energy by which
spiders form their various webs, or bees construct
their curious hives : — it must be the unerring in-
fluence of Divinity which instinctively impels and
guides these wonderful operations. Although I
had often viewed the larger animalcula infusoria,
and considered them as congeries of still smaller
animals, yet I had no idea of the form and cha-
racter of the little agents which compose these
congeries, until I examined them by a similar

857

light to that applied to the farina, and then it was
evident that numerous small bodies, similar to
those obtained from the juices of vegetables, were
lodged in almost every point of these mucilaginous
lumps, and were the source whence their power
of motion was derived.

When paste eels, and the larger animalcula in-
fusoria, are put into a little water, and the water
so far evaporated as to impede their rapidity of
motion, the individual energy of these little writh-
ing bodies will appear extremely manifest, and
impart to us a new idea respecting animal loco-
motion. The discovery of this new principle in
the locomotive power of animals, in conjunction
with several other peculiar results, connected with
the animal economy, certainly involves questions of
no trifling importance, which, if hastily pursued,
might excite the fears of many, lest bold and in-
considerate speculators should carry the inquiry
too far : but we have little to dread on this ac-
count ; for the better we understand the nature
and character of the secondary agents which the
Deity employs to accomplish the vast designs of
his stupendous providence, the greater must be-
come our reverential admiration of his unbounded
wisdom and benevolence. If M. Buffon and his
speculative friends had ever attentively observed
the playful activity some of the aggregate animal-

35$

culcs display, they must have concluded they
were living beings, and not merely organic par-
ticles, without life, moving by a species of internal
mechanism. That the whole race of polypes are
living beings we have very strong evidence ; for
some of the vorticella induce a current to pass near
what is called their head, by the motion of small
fibrilae, and devour the smaller animalcules which
are brought in contact with them by this current,
in a most voracious manner. The hydras also col-
lect their food, and if they are fed with small red
w7orms, cut into bits, the red substance of the
worms may be seen dispersed through every part
of the hydra, which in a little time becomes
changed and assimilated to the general mass, ex-
cept a small part, which is discharged, probably
on account of its not being fit for that purpose ;
thus showing their powers of secretion, which are
energies generally considered as insepai able from
the principles of vitality.

Having shewn that aggregate animalcules pos-
sess secretive powers, and by a number of facts
proved they are congeries of small animals, similar
to those which abound in almost every part of a
vegetable, we are furnished with a tolerable solu-
tion to what are termed vegetable secretions, as in
all probability they are the supposed mysterious
agents by which these processes are carried for-

3o9

ward; and as we can discover that these little
agents increase in number in the aggregate ani-
malcules, we may perhaps, by a fair analogy, refer
the hitherto unaccountable movement of the sap
in plants to this multiplying principle. Although
these little agents have generally a strong resem-
blance to each other, yet those given out by the
farina appear to differ in size when obtained from
different flowers ; therefore future discoveries, and
a more minute inspection, may show that they vary
in other respects, as well as in the general out-
line of their dimensions, and that even themselves
are composed of a congeries of still smaller beings.
These agents are furnished by a variety of substan-
ces ; for a little black ink or milk put on a slip of
glass, or a bit of raw sugar dropped into a little
water, are objects worthy of inspection ; nor will a
scientific brewer find a small portion of wort, in a
high state of fermentation, an uninteresting object,
as it will be found completely animated, though
none or very few of these agents are to be met
with in fine ale, as the greater part of them make
their escape with the barm.

Sometime ago, I mentioned to you it was proba-
ble that the beautiful plumage of the feathered
tribe owed its design and variety to an agency of
this kind, as the various phenomena attending the
growth of feathers bear such a strong analogy to

860

many of the vegetable phenomena : since then I
have found, by inspection, that these little opaque
bodies are inclosed in almost exery part of a feather.

These and numerous other results open a wide
field for investigation ; but several circumstances
have induced me to wave the inquiry for the pre-
sent : nevertheless, should you meet with any new
and interesting facts in America, I shall be glad if
you will send me a detail, agreeably to your pro-
mise, the first opportunity ; and believe me,
Your's truly,

John By water.

In the preceding letters on animalcula infusoria,
Mr. Bywater has placed that subject in a perfectly
new point of view ; and although I add a few re-
marks, I must acknowledge that it is with much
diffidence. The inferences, as respects the nature
and organization of vegetables, are fit only for the
discussion of those infinitely my superiors in talent.
Respecting the animalcula infusoria, it certainly
appears to me, that by admitting the correctness
of his reasoning on that subject, a great many of
those doubts and perplexities, which have hitherto
continued to exist, notwithstanding the many acute

331

researches that have been made, will entirely va-
nish. It has always been observed, that the mode
by which other animals were propagated never
applied to the production of animalcula infuso-
ria ; but the principles laid down by Mr. By wa-
ter remove this difficulty. The singular property
of the polypes, and that after subdivision a new
organization should take place, is not more sur-
prising, if we admit his opinion to be correct, than
that a swarm of bees should make honey-combs
similar to those they left in the hive. The extreme
tenuity to which the animated creation is carried,
is perhaps not less difficult to be conceived by the
human mind than the magnitude of the sun. It
can therefore make nothing against the opinion of
Mr. Bywater, if it implies the agency of animals
inconceivably minute*

That animated bodies should be invariably pro-
duced in water wherein vegetable matter has been
infused, and kept at a proper temperature, has long
been known ; but by what means, or how they
derived their existence, has never been clearly
pointed out. Spallanzani proved beyond a doubt,
that the agency of the atmosphere was not neces-
sary to their production, and that vegetable matter,
infused in boiling water, and confined in a glass
vessel, hermetically sealed, soon produced a vast
number of animated bodies. That they had a pre-

a a

36i

existent state in the body of the vegetable, seems
by much the most rational way of accounting for
their appearance ; and it follows from the observa-
tions and experiments of Mr. Bywater, that my-
riads of living animalcule do exist in the juices of
plants. The question is then, for what use or
purpose are they intended ? This question Mr.
Bywater answers, by assigning to them the most
important part in the scale of creation, — that of
being the agents of vegetable organization. This
opinion is partly founded on reasoning analogically,
which affords some very strong arguments in his
favour. Whoever is the least acquainted with ani-
mal economy, knows that, besides the eternal law
which compels animals individually to perform
certain acts in a certain manner only, there is ano-
ther by which thousands, and even millions, are
compelled to act as if governed by one mind and
one intelligence ; and whether these acts are per-
formed by individuals, or an association of myriads,
the organs given to them are calculated in the best
possible manner to produce the intended effect,
and that effect is the best possible to promote the
ends and purposes of their existence. The forma-
tion of corals and coralines, the operations of bees,
ants, and the termites, are sufficient instances to
illustrate this principle.

In the physiology of vegetation, innumerable

863

facts tend to prove a species of vitality in plants
not to be explained upon any principles yet laid
down, nor can it depend on chemical or mecha-
nical combination, or the operation of external
agencies. The flowers of the three species of alii-
onia found on the Missouri, open within a few mi-
nutes of sun-setting, and perish at the time of its
rising, and this whether the evening or morning is
cloudy or not. When rye is in blossom, a few an-
thers only are protruded in each head : cut these
off on a warm day, and in a few minutes more will
be protruded from other florets, and the experiment
may be repeated with equal success several times.
There is a description of vitality, manifesting itself
in the disposition of certain parts of some plants to
take a kind of repose, which is called the sleep of
plants. This vitality will remain even after those
parts have been separated from the plant to which
they were attached. Flowers accustomed to go to
sleep at certain periods, retain that faculty after
they are placed in a flower pot. The leaf of a vine,
cut from the branch, and hung up by a thread, will
turn to the light of itself. Facts of this kind are
so numerous, that'a review of them would fill a vo-
lume. I shall therefore close these remarks, by
noticing the most singular fact yet known as relates
to the physiology of plants, copied from Sir James
Edward Smith's Introduction to Physiological and
Systematic Botany. " But of all flowers, that of

86-h

the barberry basli is most worthy the attention of
a curious physiologist. In this the six stamens,
spreading moderately, are sheltered under the con-
cave tips of the petals, till some extraneous body,
as the feet or trunk of an insect in search of honey,
touches the inner part of each filament near the
bottom. The irritability of that part is such, that
the filament immediately contracts there, and con-
sequently strikes its anther, full of pollen, against
the stigma. Any other part of the filament may
be touched without this effect, provided no con-
cussion be given to the whole. After a while the
filament retires gradually, and may again be stimu-
lated ; and when each petal, with its annexed fila-
ment, is fallen to the ground, the latter, on being
touched, shews as much sensibility as ever." This
fact proves that in one single plant thousands of
distinct vitalities may exist.

FINIS.

Smith and Galway, Printers,
Liverpool,