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Uae - ag 5 ! Z 43335 . Prent et septs ib tah: . d ; 3: BE - Sz arts r E b 4 5 r a5 ii ‘ jase te $ ene 8es23% SESAB AG SEERA SSE A De eo eget gests ombet ee era Ay Ets ies sapere tie Ledge pteter rr tet Tait ele p gah he nya = Peete Sebieegesrsimeist rapiestirieetenaeetee a aniaiuiieliditat Phk Re secenr roar hry E44 suit aera sapere ae i . Fact colette = . < : - oh pAbEh Sere = ay sie peat ett ay saan sopsnaneeen ae ona os ane nee iene ae nae es antennae a = sare pied hs ie Aine Se 8 SON a panaene ne posed eT ercleeeeiereete-o%9 toe . ToT ore ee pagorvamsstat - ne crore eayenr sea tacnr ed seeps were eat ee eT anh Lae macpersnimete pin = SSDNT TRUE ee mget get —s Rane RS ER SPS Wemay ore ent, aaAO Caen “AANM OYUTAAL il a u AR EVEY OL? th TRAVELS SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA, THROUGH THE COUNTRY OF ADAL TO THE KINGDOM OF SHOA. BY CHARLES JOHNSTON, M.R.C.S. IN TWO VOLU MES. VOL: LONDON: J. MADDEN AND CO., LEADENHALL STREET. M DCCC XLIV. , ) PRINTER, 4 REBT, LONDON. oe TO M® THOMAS JOHNSTON, OF BIRMINGHAM, THESE VOLUMES ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, BY HIS SON. A 2 = gonomuti ‘tO: J anifort “M , 4 a; eS A” ‘ | i . ti | | A © , ‘ geri, \* ae ie | Ls | | ee Sea e“. . ‘ ; Sa | i ; * 4 ; ey. x 4 Va > bee ; Sa i | ie ‘ « & ’ led \ yy - “ i a cy aa tant, vo : » 4 , ” > one | ame: one fide Hore: onerehs sii ah | ie ” fas ‘aes a? 5 +g é. ee . “i igh: » A” ya 4 : fic 2 A / ” : ? ~~ J, oe s aoe) 3 * ; s be eo r - ' é : Pk Te : } P ¢ 2 & m4 ‘ 7 _ Y * ae f r ty (aes : " ; . PREFACE. As a young Author I may be allowed to make a few introductory remarks, for the purpose of pro- pitiating that spirit of critical inquiry which will probably be directed to the examination of these volumes. To undertake this journey into Africa I resigned a valuable medical appointment in the East, and voluntarily assumed the character of an adventurer. My taste and prudence were questioned much at the time by my friends. Whether the results of the ambition which prompted me to endeavour to be of service to others are, or are not, sufficient reward for the sacrifice I made, now depends upon the judgment of my reader. In 1840 I held the appointment of Surgeon on board the iron armed steamer Phlegethon, on secret service, but presumed to be bound for the Eastern coast of Africa or India. I had long vl PREFACE. : entertained the idea of travelling in Africa, and determined to carry this into effect by resigning at the end of the voyage out, and returning to England bya road across that continent. Accord- ingly, whilst in London, I prepared in some measure for the journey, by purchasing such instruments and outfit that I thought would be necessary. I also waited upon Captain Washington,* then Secretary of the Geographical Society, who entered warmly into my views, and introduced me to Captains Trotter and Allen, who were about to proceed upon the Niger expedition. In May 1841 the Phlegethon reached Calcutta, and my respected Commander, the late lamented R. F. Cleveland, Esq., R. N., aware of my intention to travel, introduced me to several members of the Indian Government, who afforded me every facility to enable me to enter Africa from the coast opposite to Aden, and from whence a Political Mission, under Captain Harris, was then on the eve of starting for the court of Shoa in Abyssinia. I beg particularly to acknowledge the interest that the Governor-General, the “Right Hon. the Karl of Auckland, took in my proposed expedition, and also the kindness and attention I received from T. Prinsep, Esq., First Member of the Council, and T. H. Maddock, Esq., Secretary to the Government. * Now commanding the Blazer steam-vessel, R.N. PREFACE. Vll I take this opportunity also of expressing to Capt. . Haines, the political resident in Aden, my lively feelings of respect and gratitude for kindnesses the most disinterested, and for that assistance without which I could never have undertaken my subse- _ quent journey. Of my reception in Abyssinia by Captain Harris, I speak elsewhere, but the ‘spirit with which my arrival was hailed may be supposed by the fact that during the first evening I managed, according to the notes of our conversation taken by my very courteous entertainer, to assert a falsehood, ° to which, however, when I became aware of the circumstance I gave an unqualified contradiction, and so ended all friendly intercourse until some months after, when a peace was negotiated through the mediation of Capt. Graham. ‘The circumstances of this quarrel. were most embarrassing to me, and have, I believe, occasioned considerable indignation on the part of those who had assisted me so far on my travels. Some respect, however, I do owe to myself, and feeling annoyed at being the subject of unworthy imputations, I have abstained from making any explanation whatever. Circumstances already have, in a great measure, exonerated me. The confidence of public ~men may be abused for a time, but it cannot — be imposed upon. Before laying down my pen, I must remark that I am not learned either in the Arab or the Amharic V1ll PREFACE. tongues, and when I have ventured to insert a few words from either language, it is to add some little to the scene, not to lead any one to suppose that the smattering I picked up among the natives is paraded in affectation of great oriental learning. In the orthography of proper names, I have used English letters, I know no other so well. Dis- trusting my ear and taste, I referred to the published works of three modern Abyssinian travellers, who affect to be directed by a foreign standard of pronunciation. Finding them all to disagree, I had no other resource but to fall back upon the despised alphabet of my mother tongue. Of my views upon the geography of Abyssinia, Iam glad to observe, that since I advocated them at the Royal Geographical Society’s Meetings, cul- minating points and anticlinal axes have given way to the proper idea of a table land surrounded by a rampart-like scarp. An earnest wish to be impressive, when I believe myself to be right, has occasioned me sometimes to assume a tone of overweening confidence. For this I ask to be excused; and in palliation for minor faults of composition, must advance my long- continued ill-health, which has prevented close application for the purposes of amending or cor- recting the manuscript. London, June \st, 1844. CONTENTS TO VOL. I. CHAPTER I. PAGE Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into Africa.— Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that town.—Unsuc- cessful endeavours to proceed farther—Return to Aden . 1 CHAPTER IL. Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the town and fair.— Departure for Zeila.—The town of Zeila.—Second visit to PAO? Dy Mee eS) ye TARO se D8 eS CHAPTER III. Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our stay.—Occi- pation.—Amusements.—Geological character of the country. —Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs of the towns- people.—Public buildings.—Religious ceremonies, law, and BAEHOE,).5. «+s SIR) te. Rest ae perty 08 BG x CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of Tajourah.—Arrival from Shoa of Demetrius and Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity—Preparations for our departure—The day fixed for our start. CHAPTER V. Journey to Ambabboo.— Halt for the night.—Journey to Dul- hull.—Stay at Dulhull. 2 : CHAPTER VI. Staying at Dulhull.—Journey to Segallo.—Halt for the night. —Journey to Daddahue.—Attack of the Bursane subdivision of the Ad’alee tribe.—Halt for the night. CHAPTER VII. Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to Bal- hatoo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Dafarré.—From Dafarré to Aleek’shatan.—Journey to Aliphanta. CHAPTER. VIII. The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur.— Scene of the murder of three soldiers of the British Mission in 1840.—Halt.— Journey to Allulee.—Attack of the Muditu tribe. CHAPTER IX. Staying at Allulee-——Amusements.—More camels join our Kafilah—Introduced to Ohmed Medina.— Journey to Gur- guddee.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a slave-—March to Khrabtu.—Proceed to Saggadarah. PAGE 61 70 89 ae yg . 126 , 148 CONTENTS. X1 CHAPTER X. PAGE Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Ballad Hy.—Halt.— Journey to Ramudalee.—Halt to receive the visit of Lohitu, Chief of the Débenee tribe: is. oe ew ee cy 166 ~ CHAPTER XI. Stay at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a hyzena.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.-—Guinea-fowl shooting.—Arrival of Lohituu—Leave Ramudalee for the ealley of Gobard. . siit9 a Uhetias ca Sebel ty wd TF CHAPTER XII. Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds of the basin of the Hawash.—Comparison of present route with that of previous travellers. 0 Nyt Rees ye Rete eee. 12195 CHAPTER XII Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake Abhibhad.— March to Saggagahdah.—Meet Kafilah of Mahomed Allee. Se REMTOE COCTOO Ms yee ek ees aie platen aoe CHAPTER XIV. Description of the plain of Saggagahdah.—Dowaleeka lake.— Effects of mirage.—Slave Kafilah.-—- Write letters to Aden. —Retire from camp with Lohitu.—Interview with Maho- Reed Allee,» .. . 0 Le Le ea ree ee Xl CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. PAGE Journey from Saggagahdah to Mokoito.—Meet old friends.— Conversation upon the origin of the Dankalli people.— Journey from Mokoito to Ahmah guloff.—Description of latino space... '. LMS a Va care mie ote dat Via Se eee Ae CHAPTER XVI. Journey to Koranhedudah.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of Amardu.—Account of myrrh-tree.—Description of halting- place.— Singular solar phenomenon.—Journey to Her- howlee.— Bedouin village.—Bedouin ladies. . . . * . 245 CHAPTER XVII. Stay at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain. —Engage escort of Hy Soumaulee.—Comparison between modern Dankalli and ancient Blemmyes.— March to Barra- dudda.— Description of halting-place.—Religious discussion with Olimed-Medima/iert2-te° | SP Oe Zoe CHAPTER XVIII. Stay at Barradudda.— Milk diet.— Wound myself by accidental discharge of my gun.— Bedouin skirmish.—Mode of warfare among the Dankalli.—Compensation for wounds and injured property.—Peace re-established. . . . . . . . . 271 CHAPTER XIX, Journey to Thermadullah.—Quarrel with Ras ul Kafilah.— Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.—Camel saddles. —Stung by scorpion.—Account of some neighbouring hot aie LT EN CONTENTS. X1ll CHAPTER XX. PAGE Journey to Alee-bakalee.— May 1st.—Journey to Hasanderah. —Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of cattle.—Architec- tural labours. — Mahomedan popular superstitions.—Sale of children.— A Bedouin father... . . . . . . . » 300 CHAPTER XXI. Purchase tobacco, with remarks on its use among the Dankalli. —Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed Medina. —Journey to Bundurah.—Singular effect of refraction.— Joined by a party of Issah Soumaulee. —Description of their appearance and arms.—Affectionate inquiries of Kafilah friends.—Description of halting-place and country around Poem nor.. ttl. oll «tiriog he najylaivd:—heaial3 . CHAPTER XXIL Journey to Kuditee.—Territory of the Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with party of friends returning from Shoa.—Strange request.—Custom of incising skin with sharp stone.—Influx of Wahama people into camp.— La Belle Sauvage.—Long discussion with the Wahama. — Differences settled, and allowed to proceed. . . . . 331 CHAPTER XXIII. Journey to Hiero Murroo.—F alse alarm at starting.—Neces- sity for being prepared for strife in Adal—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the second Debenee tribe.—Old friend of Lieut. Barker.—Offered marriage.—Stay at Hiero Murroo.— Find abandoned property of the Mission.—Negotiations for its restoration.—Joined by Wahama Kafilah, . °. . . 345 X1V CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIV. PAGE Delay in giving up the recovered stores. —Interview with father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to kraal.—Enter- tainment there.—Condition of the stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occupation of Kafilah people during long halts.— Game of gubertah.—Muditu visitors.—Expected attack.— Bedouins feasting.—Portion of entrail around the neck of a Bedouin, not for ornament, but use.—Amusements. . . 360 CHAPTER XXV. Journey to Mettah.— Conversation upon different roads through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the Muditu and the Dankalli.—Battle of Hyhilloo.—Surprise sleeping friend.—Frighten my servant, Allee.—Halt near, Assa- homerun reek 59 ye oe AO. | CHAPTER XXVL Journey te Murroo.—Remarks upon the climate of Adal.— Pass some small extinct voleanoes.—A little farriery.— Cautions for practitioners of medicine resident among the Dankalli.imHalt for a short time at Kuma.—Second visit ~ of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to Murroo.—Halt near kraal of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe . . . 391 CHAPTER XXVII. Amusements during stay at Murroo.—Bull fight.—Hating raw meat.—Another offer of marriage.—Strange mode of dressing the hair.—Caution to travellers ; perhaps unne- oR Se Se ee eee Renn are aa CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER XXVIII. PAGE Journey to Sakeitaban.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt at Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu.—Bad road.—Threats of assassination.—Shields of the Dankalli, and care of their arms.—Arrrive at Mullu.u—Write letter to Ankobar. . . 418 CHAPTER XXIX. Journey to Annee.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare hunt. —Arrive at Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight seene.— Stay at Berdudda.—Visit to camp of Hittoo Galla women. —Attack of formidable caterpillar.—Situation of halting- CR Sate Pye his Oh Sag RM Re a CHAPTER XXX. Journey to How.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense Kafilah. —wWater-cure for determination of blood to the head.— Attack of the Gallas.—Display of forces.—Ras ul Kafilah balances profit and loss sofar. . . . . . . . « « 445 CHAPTER XXXI. Journey to Mulkukuyu.—Forest on the right bank of the Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river. —Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the Hippo- potamus lake.—Journey to Azbotee.—Lee Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the table land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian Alps.—Reflec- EP ee o> | , Gungun Mah \Fhilloo ©Saggaderah 7 Sieg Bitah, Bela Hy L. rlbheon. Fes Sebel on pes Thermadullao On Aleebaklee' -IMMOO a ° Sebtiche ZINGER °Ankor pirndnnaes I WO, nuk <9) TA € AR ry i Eels a eee A | | - | 7 R.Levbee I 7° | | ; KUIFFAH | t | ony i} | S| USA oon et ge ee I a ON ge ee : II 6° | ! M | GZ e eo GD l | ie? CS SKETCH ( MAP 3° || ll Y SHEWING ( THE 6° d} WY) T il { = i WATERSTUEDS ABYSSINIA | I} Ble ‘ | | | E ) CHARLES JOHNSTON gto | } ! = ACS. = | : = : a | | t ie 2 | | aN | | ¥ ei | | | | ioe | | 3° : | vAnaS H | ”, | 5 a2 = i = 3 - . > x 7a SS ——_ : ee ee eee a — 3 as Longitude East 3/6” of Greenwich 317° 3\B° 9° 4|o° 4° oe als® Tublished by J. Madden & C° June 3071844 F&C Walker, Seulp® TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA, ETC. CHAPTER I. Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into Africa.— Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed farther.—Return to Aden.—Time, from 24th of December to the 1st of March. I arrivep in Aden on the 24th of December, 1841, very ill indeed; having been suffering for nearly two months from a severe intermittent fever, contracted in Bombay. I was advised to proceed at once to England for the benefit of my health, but having letters of introduction from the Indian Government to Capt. Haines, the political agent in Aden, and also to Capt. Harris, our ambassador at that time to the court of Shoa, in Abyssinia, which were calculated to assist me materially in my inten- tion of penetrating into Africa, I persisted in my determination, under all circumstances, to carry out a resolution formed two years before of exploring VOL. I. B 2 ADEN. some portion of that interesting, but as yet little known continent. Circumstances detained me in Aden nearly six weeks before I received the welcome intimation from Capt. Haines, that he was about to forward to Shoa despatches and stores for the use of the Mis- sion, and as he kindly offered to put them under my charge, I gladly availed myself of the opportu- nity thus afforded me of commencing my journey most favourably as regarded both comfort and con- venience; every requisite for such an undertaking being provided for me that the friendly care and the long experience of Capt. Haines and the assistant political agent, C. J. Cruttenden, Esq., could suggest. My. Hatchetoor, an active and intelligent agent, who had been appointed to trans- act all business with the chiefs connected with the transit of stores and despatches through the Adal country, was also instructed to accompany me to Tajourah, a small seaport, on the opposite African coast, from whence the two proceeding kafilahs connected with the Embassy had started into the interior. A Portuguese servant, named Antonio, who had been engaged to accompany me, hearing of the sad fate of three European soldiers belonging to Capt. Harris’s party, and who were killed during the night, a few days’ journey inland, and of the still more recent murder of three of Mr. Hatchetoor’s native servants, when last he visited Tajourah, DEPARTURE FOR TAJOURAH. 3 became so alarmed that he deserted ; perhaps for- tunately for me, as I was thus spared the trouble and risk of engaging in any quarrels that might have arisen with the natives on his account. As presents and peace-offerings to the numerous petty chieftains of the various tribes of Dankalli, among whom my road lay, I was provided with ten bags of rice, a large box containing several pieces of white and red calico, some figured chintz, and a few cotton handkerchiefs of every gaudy colour, besides an abundant supply of needles and paper, which con- stituted the material for minor gifts to be made to a more numerous class of supplicants, the women and inferior people. Our arrangements being completed, Mr. Hatche- toor and myself proceeded on board the brig-of-war Euphrates, commanded by Lieut. John Young, of the Indian navy, who had received orders to convey us to ‘Tajourah. We were no sooner on board than the anchor was weighed, and we started on our short voyage across the Sea of Babel Mandeb. In consequence of the weak state of my health, I remained on deck no longer than to witness our passage out of the beautiful and commodious harbour called Back Bay, which extends to the westward of the low narrow isthmus, and nearly circular base of the extinct volcano razé of Aden. We arrived in sight of Tajourah by sunrise the next morning; but it was not until nearly three o’clock in the afternoon B 2 4 ARRIVAL AT TAJOURAH. that we anchored in front of that town. The sails being furled, a salute of seven guns was fired by the brig, but some time elapsed before any notice was taken of the honour by the people on shore, a delay which was soon accounted for by Sultawn Ebin Mahomed, the Sheik of the town, sending on board for some gunpowder to enable him to return the compliment. Capt. Young and Mr. Hatchetoor landed almost immediately. I remained for the present on board, as it was considered impolitic for me to appear desirous of passing through the Adal country until some positive information could be obtained respect- ing the second division of stores which had been sent up to Abyssinia some months before under the charge of Mr. Bernatz, the artist, and the assistant surveyor, Mr. Scott, respecting which none but the most disastrous accounts had been received in Aden. On the return of Capt. Young to the brig, I found, much to my disappointment, that he did not feel himself justified, under present circumstances, in trusting into the hands of the people of Tajourah, several boxes and packages which were to constitute my charge. He also considered it would be highly injudicious in me to make any attempt to pass through the country in the disturbed state it was then represented to be. Part of the mail, however, he determined to forward, if possible, and had fixed the next day for another interview with the Sultaun to conclude some arrangements with him and his BAY OF TAJOURAH. 5 people that should at least secure the transmission of the public despatches to Capt. Harris in Shoa. Tajourah is a small straggling town consist- ing of a number of low mat houses standing on the northern shore of a narrow bay which extends about twenty miles inward, nearly due east and west. The opposite coast is at least ten miles distant. From Tajourah, the bay contracts inland to a channel scarcely four hundred yards wide, when, suddenly expanding again, it terminates in a large irregularly formed lagoon, called Goobat ul Khhrab (the bad haven). In modern maps no appearance of this deep inlet, a very particular feature of the seacoast in this neighbourhood, can be found, though in the older Portuguese maps it is accurately enough laid down. ‘The ancients seem to have been well aware of the existence of the Bay of Tajourah, for it can be easily identified with the Sinus Avalite of the Periplus. The sea immediately in front of Tajourah has received, from the generally unruffled state of its stormless waters, the name of Bahr ul Barateen, ‘¢'The sea of Maidens ;” which struck me as a sin- gular correspondence with the name of the sea sur- rounding the ancient city of Carthage, which from the map appended to an old school edition of Virgil, we learn was called by the Romans, Mare Nympharum, the poetical Latin translation of the Arabic, Bahr ul Barateen. ‘Tajourah, it must be observed, also being the present name of a village 6 SURVEILLANCE OF ISAAK. situated very near to the ruins of that once powerful seat of Phoenician commerce. On the occasion of this visit, much opportunity was not afforded me of observing the character either of the country or of the people, as I landed but twice, and then under the closest surveillance of a brother of the Sultaun, named Isaak, who professed to be greatly alarmed for my safety during these visits; and although at the time I deemed his attendance to proceed from any but generous motives, I have since had reason to believe that his representations of the danger I incurred by rambling about the neighbourhood without the protection of some powerful native were founded upon truth, and from a desire that no cause of ill-feeling between their little town and the English should occur, if by any possibility it could be avoided. As I before observed, three of Mr. Hatchetoor’s servants were murdered during the night, on the last occasion of our intercourse with the inhabitants ; and Isaak, though I felt his presence to be a restraint upon my actions, was quite right for thus persisting to accompany me on even the most trifling occasions, to prevent the recur- rence of what he, half savage as he was, felt to be an untoward event. An opportunity offering itself, Capt: Young introduced me to the Sultaun of ‘Tajourah. He was a man at least sixty years of age; round his closely shaven head was wrapped a dirty SULTAUN EBIN MAHOMED. 7 white muslin turban, beneath which was a very light Arab skull cap of open wicker-work, made of the mid rib of the palm leaf. Naked to his waist, over the right shoulder and across his chest, was slung a broad belt of amulets, consisting of numerous packages the size of a small cartouche- box, alternately of red cloth and of leather, each of which contained some written charm against every evil that he feared, or for every desirable good. A common checked cotton fotah, or cloth, reaching to the knees, was fastened around his middle by a leathern belt, in which was secured a very handsome sword of silver, and completed his dress. In his hand he held a light spear, that served to support his long spare figure as he walked, or sometimes to chastise a rebellious urchin, or vituperative female of his household, by dropping the heavily iron tipped end not very gently on their heads and shoulders. But little attention was paid to him by his tribe beyond the simple acknowledgment of him as their chief, and the title was only valuable as a legal excuse for demanding from merchants and strangers some paltry present, which alone con- stitutes, as far as I could observe, the revenue of the state of 'Tajourah. Beyond the limits of the town, the authority of the Sultaun was disclaimed ; and, in fact, it was very evident that to hold quiet possession of the town, a species of black mail was extorted from him and the inhabitants by the Bedouins of the surrounding country. 8 THE PALACE. The palace of the Sultaun Ebin Mahomed, who was familiarly styled by his subjects, ‘‘ Shabah” (old man), consisted of two rooms, placed at right angles to each other, the walls of which consisted of mats made of the plaited palm leaf, stretched upon a slight frame of sticks. ‘The roofs also were of similar material. The whole was inclosed by a fence about six feet high, consisting of dry sticks, also covered with mats. Screens of these suspended mats divided the larger of the two rooms into four compartments, which were severally used as the harem, store-room, the family sleeping-room, and the audience-cham- ber, if such imposing designations may with pro- priety be bestowed upon the squalid menage of the chief of Tajourah. In the other room was the oven, or rather kiln, for baking ; a coarse earthern con- struction, which resembled in form a large jar, inside of which was placed the fuel; when it was properly heated, large layers of unleavened dough, made from the meal of jowahree mixed with water, was plastered upon the outside, where it remained until it had dried into a heavy substance, well finger-marked, and looked sufficiently like a cake to satisfy the eaters, that they were, really, as they frequently boasted, so far in advance of their Be- douin neighbours, as to use baked bread. There were also in this room a few wooden couches upon which the slave women were accus- tomed to repose during the heat of the day, when not engaged in grinding the jowahree meal, or THE PALACE COURT. 2) carrying water from the well. Ata short distance from these apartments, but within the enclosed court, was a singularly constructed wooden building that towered some six feet above the usual height of houses in Tajourah, being the cabin of a large bugalow, or native ship, wrecked in the bay, and which had been elevated upon untrimmed trunks of the date palm-tree.* A wall of matting carried round these posts formed a convenient lower room, which, with the cabin above, was usually apportioned to strangers visiting the town. ‘To this extraordi- nary effort of native architectural genius, was attached a small yard, separated by a mat screen from the larger court; and here, at a broken jar, that stood in one corner, under the shade of a miser- able looking henna-tree, the faithful of the house- hold were always to be found at the stated times of * With respect to this wooden building, a recent traveller asserts that it is made of the hull of a British ship, the Mary Ann, which was attacked and burned during the night, in the port of Berberah, more than twenty years ago. To paint the evil one blacker than he really is, is not considered fair; and I do not see why the treachery and the violence of the inhabitants of a town nearly one hundred and fifty miles distant should be thus attached to the people of Tajourah without any foundation whatever. Another error that demands a positive contradiction is the statement that the fops of Tajourah are Soumaulee, with their hair stained red. One of the principal distinguishing characteristics between the Dankalli, by whom Tajourah is exclusively inhabited, and the Soumaulee of the opposite coast of the bay, is this custom among the latter people to change the natural colour of the hair, by a solution of quick-lime applied toit. Any Dankalli doing this would be certainly assassinated by his countrymen, 10 PREPARE TO RETURN TO ADEN..- prayer, performing their ablutions. At small aper- tures along the lower edge of the screen, close to the ground, were frequently to be seen rows of white teeth of startling extent, as the amused slave girl and female branches of the royal family sought to gratify their curiosity by taking sly peeps at the Engreez whenever they visited the Sultaun. The law court, if it may be so termed, was nothing more than an expansion of the lane in the front of the Sultan’s residence, carefully strewed with the small pebbly shingle of the neighbouring beach. In form it was oblong, and around it were placed several large stones, an old ship beam, and a trunk of the date tree, to serve for the seats of the principal men of the town on occasions of their public kalahims or councils, which were always held in this place. The Sultaun generally presided over these assemblies, his chief business being to distribute the coffee, which was rather stingily supplied to the parties present. Capt. Young having succeeded in his endeavour to forward the despatches, this being undertaken by the son of my friend Isaak, on payment of seventy dollars, made immediate preparations for returning to Aden, in order to report the unsafe character of the road, and the disinclination of the Tajourah people to forward the stores to Shoa. I, of course, felt much disappointed ; but could not object to the reasonableness of the only course that could be taken, and made up my mind to remain in Aden until a better opportunity should be afforded me of OF THE NAME OF ADAL. 11 prosecuting my determination of travelling in Africa. Feb. 26.—After a detention of four days at Ta- jourah, we weighed anchor, and proceeded on our voyage back to Aden; the wind, however, being contrary and very light, we did not reach Back Bay until the 1st of March, during which time I amused myself on board comparing the present condition of the coast of that part of Africa we had just visited, with some notes I had collected respecting the ancient geography, as contained in the Periplus of Arrian, and other works of the same character I had read. The present name among the Arabs of the oppo- site coast of the country in which Tajourah is situated is Burr Adgem, “the land of fire;” and it must be observed, that this is also the Arab desig- nation of the present kingdom of Persia; a signifi- cant name, acknowledged to be, and is evidently derived from the volcanic character of both these districts. The Burr Adgem, on the south of the Red Sea, is of indefinite extent, but may be considered as applied to the country reaching from Suakin in the north, to Mogadishe in the south, and as far west as the high lands of Abyssinia. Among the ancients, this country was known as that of the Avalites; in which word may perhaps be recognised, Affah, the present native name of the Dankalli tribes, living on the western coast of the Red Sea, but which formerly had a far more 12 DERIVATION OF THE WORD ADAL. extensive application, and included the numerous Soumaulee tribes, who inhabited the country to the south of the Sea of Babel Mandeb as far as Cape Guardefoi, and from thence southward along the eastern coast of Africa as far as Malinda. Another name for these Affah tribes is Adal; given to them by the Abyssinians inland, and which, according to some recent authorities, has arisen from the circumstance of the principal tribe with whom the Abyssinians have any intercourse being the Adu Alee, living in the immediate vicinity of Mas- soah, which name has gradually become to be used as the designation of the whole people. I confess that I do not see the propriety of this derivation, as it appears more natural to derive the Abyssinian name from that of the chief part of this country at an early period, when a powerful Egyptian monarch made the Affah port, Adulis, the capital of an ex- tensive country. The terminal letter of this proper name, I have been informed, may be the usual Grecian affix to adapt it to the genius of their language; and I think the probability is, that the ¢ has been thus added, and that the word Aduli was the origin of the Greek Adulis, and of the modern name Adal. Another very common name for these people is Dankalli, a word which appears to be of Persian origin; but one that is also acknowledged by the Affah themselves, as the proper name of their country, or of their people collectively. In the OF THE DANKALLI AND SOUMAULEE. 13 time of Ludolph, Dankalli was known as the name of a large kingdom or province, situated on the seacoast, extending from the port of Adulis to the confines of the country of the Assobah Galla, who then dwelt in the country immediately to the north of Tajourah. The Assobah are now, however, con- sidered to be a Dankalli tribe, a change which I conceive has taken place in consequence of this tribe haying since become Gibbertee, or “ strong in the Islam faith ;” for a religious distinction, I find, has for some centuries separated the original Affah nation into Dankalli and Soumaulee. ‘The latter, whose name is derived from the Abyssinian word soumahe, oy heathens, being supposed by the strict Mahomedan Dankalli, still in a great proportion to adhere to their ancient Sabian faith, and only partially to profess the Islam belief. Soumaulee cor- responds with the Arabic word, kafir, or unbeliever, the name by which alone Edresi, the Arabian geographer, knew and described the inhabitants of the Affah coast, to the east of the straits of Babel Mandeb. It also appears to me that the word Dankalli connects the history of these people with the empire of the true Ethiopia, or Meroe, which was situated between the branches of the Tacazze and the Assareek, or the Red Nile, for it may be that in the Odyssey, where Homer conducts Neptune into Ethiopia, and places him between two nations of blacks, perfectly distinct from each other, the poet 14 DERIVATION OF THE WORD GALLA. alludes to the two very different people, the Shankalli and the Dankalli, inhabiting the low countries of Africa within the tropics; the former living to the west of Abyssinia, the latter towards the east. This will be more evident when, in a future chapter, I connect the elevated table land of Abys- sinia with the scene of the annual festivities of the gods in Ethiopia. It may be as well in this place, perhaps, to ad- vance my Own opinion as to the probable derivation of the name Galla, which has been so generally given to the numerous, divided, and barbarous tribes which I believe have arisen from the ruins of the once civilized and extensive empire of Meroe. The word Galla appears to be merely another form of “ Calla,” which in the ancient Persian, Sanscrit, Celtic, and their modern derivative languages, under modified, but not radically changed terms, is expressive of blackness, and which was originally conferred upon a dark-coloured people, as descrip- tive of their appearance, by the affrighted nations of a lighter complexion, whom their boldness and ferocity have nearly extinguished. Thus the origi- nal inhabitants of the high table land of Abyssinia, a much lighter-coloured race than the Greeks, called the people of the surrounding low countries Galla, for the same reason that the Greeks gave them the name of Ethiopians. In the Geez, or Ethiopic language, these people are styled Tokru- ree, blacks, and their country Tokruah : and we SHANKALLI AND DANKALLI. 15 find that the Arabs and Indians, also influenced by external appearance, call them Seedee, and their | country Soudan, from the word asward, which sig- nifies black. ‘The Romans, in like manner, gave them the name of Nigrite ; and we ourselves call them Blacks. ‘Two nations of Calla or blacks, very different in physical character and social condition from each other, are now found in the country of ancient Ethiopia ; the Shankalli, or the true negro, and the Dankalli, who belong decidedly to the Circassian variety of mankind, possessing round skulls, high full foreheads; the position of the eyes rectilinear; the nose, mouth, and form of countenance being in every respect concordant with the characters assigned to that type of the human race, excepting their colour, which was a dark brown, or sometimes quite black. Their hair, which is much frizzled and worn very full, is a savage caricature of a barrister’s wig. I could perceive no other difference in features or in the form of the head between ourselves and several individuals of this people; mdeed, there was often such a striking resemblance between them and some of my European acquaintances, that it was not unusual for me to distinguish them by bestowing the names of some of my far distant friends upon their Dankalli counterparts. Respecting the numerous savage tribes, known in Europe under the general term Galla, I will not anticipate the results of my subsequent journey, which afforded me better opportunity of forming an 16 RETURN TO ADEN. opinion as to the real character of these people, and of comparing them with others, who seemed to me to have one common origin, but who differ very materially in the historical circumstances which -have marked the period of their long separation. I shall, therefore, return for the present to Aden, which we reached early in the morning of the first of March, three days after having left Ta- jourah. From Back Bay, a joint report was immediately forwarded to Capt. Haines by Lieut. Young and Mr. Hatchetoor, announcing the return of the brig, and the ill success that had attended their endea- vours to forward the stores and myself to Shoa. Fortunately, I was not long permitted to remain at Steamer Point, off which the Euphrates was anchored, for before noon of the same day we arrived, I received fresh instructions from Capt. Haines to embark again in the evening, and pro- ceed in company with the assistant political agent, C. J. Cruttenden, Esq., to Berberah, where the great annual fair was then being held; from which place it was arranged a native boat should be engaged to take that gentleman, his two servants, and myself back to Tajourah. Capt. Haines rightly supposing that some little jealousy had been excited on the previous occasion by the appearance of the brig before the town which might have implied that compulsion would be resorted to, should the inhabit- ants refuse their required assistancé to communicate IMPROVED HEALTH. 17 with the Embassy in the interior. One great benefit had resulted from the voyage—my health having considerably improved. ‘The sea air, fresh scenes, and above all, the considerate kindness with which I was treated on board the Euphrates con- firmed the restorative reaction which had com- menced in Aden. ‘The depressing influence that for several months had held me in sick durance, yielded before the excitement of hope, and a new principle of life seemed to reanimate my nearly worn out frame. WOOL. I. C 18 CHAPTER IL. Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the Town and Fair.— Departure for Zeila.—The Town of Zeila.—Second Visit to Tajourah.—Time, from the lst to the 6th of March. BERBERAH is situated on the same coast of the sea of Babel Mandeb, but about 130 miles to the eastward of Tajourah. It is remarkable for having been a mart for the exchange of African and Asiatic products between the merchants of either continent, from the earliest antiquity. | For the greater part of every year, during the S. W. Monsoon, from September to March, this place is the busy scene of an extensive commerce, and a deserted wilderness for the remaining months; after which interval, again the ships of foreign and the caravans of native products begin to arrive. Another temporary town rises as if by the wand of some magician, and thousands of huts and mat houses are erected upon the beach, where but afew weeks before nothing was to be seen but bare sands; nothing to be heard save the howling of numerous wild beasts, as they prowled in search of food, amongst the heaps of filth and animal remains collected during the preceding fair. SOUMAULEE FRIENDS. 19 We came in sight of Berberah on the afternoon of the 4th of March. As the brig rounded a low sandy point, and entered the narrow harbour, several of the natives, who had been long watching our slow advance, the wind being very light, leaped into the sea, and swam on board. I could not avoid noticing immediately the apparent difference in disposition between them and the people of Tajourah ; for a most sullen and distrustful bearing seemed to characterize the latter, while the Sou- maulee on the contrary, at least those of Berberah, seemed confident that no violence or injury would be offered to them, they seized the ropes thrown over the sides of the vessel to assist them as they climbed up, and in high glee they passed along the deck and on to the poop, laughing, arranging their wet waist-cloths, and shaking hands, as if they were among old friends. We anchored within a short distance of the town, and several of the leading people came im- mediately on board. ‘The business connected with my journey to Berberah was transacted at once in the cabin, the principal native authority, Allee Shurmalkee, being requested by Mr. Cruttenden to provide a boat and other necessaries, which he readily consented to do. As it was late, we none of us went on shore; although I do not believe any danger would have been incurred by so doing, a very friendly feeling evidently existing on the part of the natives towards the English, without that Cx 20 HARBOUR OF BERBERAH. abundant protestation of friendship pressed ‘upon you, as it is by the people of Tajourah, which you cannot help feeling is altogether feigned. During the earlier part of the next day, I amused myself upon deck, making observations on the temporary town, and speculating on the different national characters of the mixed multitude which inhabit it. The mere appearance of Berberah is most uninteresting, except, certainly, the harbour, which, if not a very prominent feature, is still.a most singular one for its peculiar construction and admirable convenience. A long low spit or raised bank of sand and coral extends nearly a mile into the sea towards the west, parallel with, and at the distance of about half a mile from, the real line of coast. Within the enclosed space of water good anchorage in four or six fathoms is found nearly up to the town, which 1s situated around the bite of this little narrow inlet. The rise and fall of the tide is sufficient to admit of very large bogalows, as the native boats are called, to be beached for repair, or other purposes; and, in fact, during the fair, a great number of these vessels do lie upon the shore, or in the shallow water close up to the town, giving to the whole a regular, dock-like, appearance. So apparently accordant with the rules of art is the direction of the outer sea-wall, and its position so admirably convenient, that even a reflecting observer cannot altogether divest himself of the HARBOUR OF BERBERAH. 21 idea, that it is not a pre-concerted work of art rather than the casual production of nature. ‘This was certainly my first impression; and for some time I considered it to have been constructed in a remote period of antiquity, when the whole of this _ coast was the busy scene of an extensive and lucra- tive commerce, but that in the revolution of time and the everchanging pursuits of man, the origin of this sea-protecting mole had been forgotten, and the only remembrance of the people who raised it was to be found in its name, which cer- tainly recalls to the mind that of a long-lost nation, the Berbers of Africa. This was theory, of course, and my opimion soon changed, when I found that no other evidence of man’s residence existed in this neighbourhood; no traces whatever of that industry and wealth which must have characterized the people who could have projected and completed such an extensive marine defence for their navy and commerce. Subsequently also, geological examinations, and comparison with other older reefs of sand and coral, now forming part of, and which extend some distance inland, enabled me to establish its identity with them in structure and mineral composition. Finally, there- fore, I became convinced that this was another of those beautiful and benevolent works that Nature— “our kindest mother still”—has provided for the security of her favourite, man; for with an antici- pating care she has here constructed for him, by a yo PROCEED TO TOWN. curious yet simple economy, a safe retreat whenever _ in his frail bark he might be exposed to the violence of the winds and waves, on this otherwise inhospitable and dangerous coast. In the afternoon a party, consisting of A. Nesbitt, Esq., First Lieut. of the Euphrates, the Purser, Mr. Powell, and myself, was formed for the purpose of more closely examining Berberah and _ its curiosities. One of the brig’s boats was ordered alongside, and we soon found ourselves carefully threading a winding course, amidst the numerous fleet of bogalows moored along-shore, greeted as we passed beneath their huge misshapen sterns, by the joking salutations and laughing faces of numerous almé, or slave-girls, who crowded the cabin win- dows, and the most striking features of whose dark countenances were rows of pearly teeth. The boat grounded about thirty yards from dry land, and we were obliged to be carried upon the shoulders of the crew over a black muddy beach, being set down amidst heaps of dirt; the rotting debris of the sea and of the land, drift wood, loose spars, the bones of animals, and excrements of man, formed a barrier of filth, over which it was impossible to choose a path, so we at once struck boldly across to the narrow entrance of what we imagined must be a street, and entered the town of Berberah. I should suppose there were .at least from four to five thousand huts placed closely together, uniform in size and elevation, being generally of an oblong DESCRIPTION OF TOWN. ee} form, about six feet broad, by nine feet in length, and five feet in height. They consisted of a roof of mats, made of the doom palm leaf, or of a long dried grass, or else merely half-dried skins badly preserved, stretched over the usual stick skeleton of a wigwam. ‘There was not much architectural display, for being all roof, they did not well admit of it. Nor does convenience appear to be con- sulted in laying out streets, or even regular passages, only in so much, that a small spot on one side of the entrance of each hut is left vacant for purposes that may be imagined, and a succession of these sweet and pleasant places make a narrow lane, into which all doors open, and thus a convenient but dirty street is formed by which alone the visitor is enabled to perambulate this justly celebrated aromatic yielding fair. The residences of the few foreign merchants, principally Banians and Arabs, are exceptions to this general style in the construction of the houses, and have some pretensions both to appear- ance and convenience, usually having mat walls to the height of four or five feet, with a long slanting roof of grass securely fastened down by sticks of bamboo laid transversely. ‘The entrance is a kind of hall, opening into the centre of a room at right angles, and which extends to the right and left, perhaps ten or twelve feet on each side; its breadth is about ten feet. Behind this room is another apartment of equal dimensions, 24 SHURMALKEE. which serves as a store or warehouse, and one end partitioned off by mats, contains the secluded inmates of the harem. One of the objects we had in view in visiting the fair was, to procure some few additional articles I-required for my journey into the interior, namely, a bed carpet, two Arab frocks of yellow nankeen, and a black camaline or cloak. We accordingly bent our steps towards the quarter where lived our native friend, Shurmalkee, who was to assist us In making our purchases, but whose residence we should never have found but for the crowd of armed idlers who soon surrounded us, and led us with a kind of barbarous state into the presence of their respected chief. The well-known Shurmalkee, or Allee Allee, his real name, is now upwards of fifty years old, tall, thin, with slightly stooping shoulders; his face long, with small quickly moving eyes, and thin white beard. ‘The only deviation from the usual dress of his countrymen is a white cotton cloth turban, a distinction, with the title of sheik, gene- rally assumed by those who can read the Koran, or have performed the pilgrimage to Mecca. Some fifteen or twenty years since, Shurmalkee was chiefly instrumental in saving part of the crew of the English brig, Mary Anne, then lying at anchor in the harbour of Berberah, which was attacked and burned during the night by the natives. He was himself wounded on the occasion, and the mate ISLAM EXTORTION. 25 and three or four of the brig’s people murdered. The Indian Government rewarded him munificently at the time for his generous interference ; and since then, finding him honest, intelligent, and grateful, they have always patronised him, allowing him in our eastern parts the privilege of a British subject, with liberty to hoist our flag in his bogalows. He is now our native agent in all transactions with the Soumaulee inhabitants of Berberah and Zeila. By his industry and enterprise he has become the richest man along this coast; nor is there scarcely a prince or petty chief in the adjoining countries who is not indebted to this African Rothschild. We rested ourselves upon the only piece of furni- ture in the mat-walled room, a rude couch of wood with a bottom of interlaced palm-leaf rope, covered with a coarse Arab carpet of as many colours as Joseph’s jacket. We refused to take any refreshment, and sent immediately for the articles we wanted. As usual, the Islam spirit of despoiling the Christian exhibited itself in the exorbitant demands of the Arab merchants, but which in this case was defeated by the prompt interference of Shurmalkee, who dismissed them very summarily as much to ours as to their surprise. As soon as they were gone, however, he explained the cause, and promised to obtain the things himself, before we went on board, at half the price that had been demanded, desiring us not to take any further trouble about them, but to proceed at once to view the town, at the same 26 PECULIAR CUSTOM. time supplying us, as is the custom of these people, with two natives for guides, and also as sureties for our safety and freedom from molestation during our walk. The appointment of these sureties, or Abbahn, as each calls himself, to every stranger who enters the town, is a singular but very necessary charac- teristic of the social condition of the inhabitants of Berberah, and is deserving of particular notice. Convenience on the one hand and enterprise on the other, have here brought together the Hindoo Banyan, the Mahomedan Arab, and the Pagan Soumaulee; for even now scarcely one half of this latter people profess the Islam faith. With no gene- rally acknowledged superior, no established law, each inhabitant depends upon his own keen knife, or that of his Abbahn, for personal safety and the security of his property. All are equally ready to resort to a bloody appeal upon the least cause of dispute, so that every day is marked by some fatal quarrel, and every night by some robbery and violent death. Even the murdering Danakil shakes his head when he speaks of the Fair of Berberah, denouncing it as being “shatan, shatan;” -whilst the wisest and * the best men of every nation or tribe, who are here assembled, speak openly their desire, that some powerful Islam, or even Feringee Government, should take actual possession, both of this port and of Zeila also. Under such circumstances, the foreign merchant, accustomed in his own country OF THE ABBAHN. Q7 to the protection of law, or of some regularly established authority, consents but reluctantly, and then only from the prospect of immense gains, to risk his person among a people so violently bar- barous as are the Adal tribes occupying this portion of Africa, who have lost none of their ancient charac- ter significantly recorded in the Periplus, as being “ uncivilized, and under no restraint.” To protect himself in some measure the trader has recourse to the system of procuring the constant attendance of one or more of the natives, whose duty it is to guard their employer from molestation. Two-thirds of the Soumaulee population of the town are engaged in this manner. No sooner does a stranger arrive than he is surrounded by natives, each soliciting to be employed as his Abbahn, and are almost as importunate and as troublesome as the hotel-barkers who infest the piers of our watering-places. The important privilege of supplying strangers with Abbahns is monopolized by one tribe living in the neighbourhood of Berberah, called , Raree-good- Hadé, but not without considerable opposition from another tribe called Raree-Abdullah, with whom serious conflicts sometimes take place within the town, when all business is suspended for three or four days in consequence. Every ship, or bogalow, arriving at the port is boarded, at least a mile from the shore, by a crowd of Soumaulee Abbahns, and on the occasion of the Kuphrates approaching Berberah, a number of these 28 THE COUNTRY naked visitors,as I have before mentioned, swam from shore a very long distance and were taken on board. Following Shurmalkee’s advice, we started, but certainly not to see the town, though we passed through it; for with eyes bent upon the ground, we carefully picked our way along the narrow street, not four feet wide, the tops of the stinking skin wigwams and mat-huts presenting one uniform dark level, just the height of our noses. The outskirts of the town were equally offensive, but more particularly marked by the vast quantity of bones of all eatable animals strewed about, and the vestiges of numerous cooking fires, everywhere telling of the sites of former houses, and that a few weeks before the fair must have been even more extensive. About half-a-mile to the left of the town, on a slightly elevated mound of sand and coral, was a ruined mosque, the only appearance of a stone building in the neighbourhood. ‘To this we proceeded, our conversation turning upon the dirti- ness of the town, its low flat appearance from every point of view, the singular character of its inhabitants, and the great importance Berberah might assume in the possession of some highly civilized country, (we meant Britain, of course,) as one point from whence to spread through Africa the benefits arising from science, and the happiness attendant upon a knowledge of the Christian faith. Around the mosque were numerous graves, each AROUND BERBERAH. 29 consisting of a low heap of stones in a line six feet long, enclosed in a large circle of single stones, the diameter of which sometimes exceeded twenty feet. The direction of the graves were due east and west, and a small space or opening in the circle invari- ably to the south, formed a kind of entrance into its area. ‘They differed from the strictly Islam tomb in not having the two little flat stones at the head and foot, in their less conical form, and in the circular enclosure. ‘Their vicinity to the ruined mosque told, however, of the profession of the Islam faith during the life of the deceased, whilst in the manner of the burial it appeared that surviving friends had still adhered to the customs of their forefathers. I might, too, have been mistaken in the real character of the building, and that which I hastily concluded to be a mosque, may have been some remains of a temple of the ancient faith pro- fessed by the Affah nation, and which I believe was Sabianism. From the burial-place looking towards the south- east, we had a view of the town and shipping of Berberah, situated at one extremity of a spacious triangular plain, which we were told extended one hundred miles one way in the direction of Zeila, and inland towards Hurrah nearly the same distance. On our return to Shurmalkee’s house, we walked along the beach in front of the town, where were numerous women drying sheep-skins, by stretching them in the sun, pinning them down upon the hot 30 RETURN TO THE BRIG. sands by broken pieces of bones in the absence of sticks. ‘Tobes, or the large cotton cloths worn by the natives over the shoulders and around the body, were also bleaching upon the beach after a careless wash in the sea. As we came nearer to the town we disturbed, as we passed, several large bodies of men squatting upon the ground im deep con- versation, each armed with a large heavy knife and aspear. We were also continually being jostled by busy native porters, who were conveying loads of eum and coffee on board the bogalows, or else laden with their return burdens of cotton and cotton goods for the stores of their employers. We had taken our guns with us, having started with the intention of proceeding some short distance inland, but the sun was so very powerful, and the prospect so apparently hopeless, of either instruc- tion or amusement being derived from the walk, that it was resolved, as I started on the morrow for Tajourah, that we should proceed immediately on board the brig, from the deck of which we had a more extensive view of the town and surrounding | country, than any point afforded on shore, and from our numerous visiters, Arab and native, had excellent opportunities of deriving information respecting the manners and customs of the Sou- maulee population. The appearance of the surrounding country seems to indicate that at a period not very remote, the whole of it has either been up- LAND UPRAISED. ol heaved from beneath the sea, or that the retreat of the latter has left the plain, extending to the westward and southward of Berberah, the dry land we now find it. At one time the coast about here must have been of a somewhat similar cha- racter to that which is now presented by the harbour of Zeila, deep narrow channels existing between extensive coral reefs, which, at the distance of three miles from the town, have not one fathom in depth of water over them. At the time of such submersion of the plain of Berberah, the sea must then have come up to the nearly regular line of low volcanic hills, which, commencing a few miles distant from the town, stretch in a south-western direction for many miles inland. ‘This portion of the then sea of Aden included a considerable part of the country between Zeila and Hurrah, for the present coast-line, from the former town to Berberah, assumed as a base, whilst Hurrah may represent the apex, will give some idea of the triangular form of this now habitable tract, which, I conclude, has been raised above the level of the sea by the opera- tion of some vast upheaving force. Whatever testimony is required for this opinion is presented by the geological character of the numerous small hills to the south of Berberah: old coral reefs studding the place with eminences about twenty- five feet high as far as the eye can reach. If these formations are considered as insufficient authority for my founding an opinion upon the submarine origin of this country and its recent elevation, I 32 VOYAGE TO ZEILA. can only excuse myself upon the plea of endea- vouring to give a better idea of its appearance by this allusion to its geological character, and which will at least, I hope, assist the reader in forming a more complete picture of Berberah and its environs. The next day was occupied in placing the boxes and packages of the Mission into the native boat, hired from Shurmalkee. This was effected by noon, and after a parting dinner with our kind friends on board the brig, Mr. Cruttenden and myself proceeded to take possession of our fresh berths in the bogalow. The little cabin of our newecraft was about three feet high, and six or seven feet long, with a roof and floor of bamboo canes, over which were placed a few mats. ‘Two servants of Mr. Crutten- den’s being on board, they were told to prepare the evening meal; and anticipating by the direction and force of the wind that we should be off the town of Zeila by the next morning, we spread our carpets on the cabin-floor, and composed ourselves to reflec- tion or repose, no sufficient inducement offering, to tempt us to expose ourselves in the sun upon the frail unsheltered deck above us. After supper a conver- sation, in which I could not join, was entered into with the ras, or captain of the boat, by Mr. Crut- tenden, whose knowledge of Arabic admitted of this amusement; but as he generally interpreted to me the most useful and interesting portions, and added some most valuable information which he had collected in his long intercourse with these OFF ZEILA. 33 people, I had reason to feel happy that circum- stances had thus thrown me, upon the eve of the commencement of my own travels, into the society of an experienced and clever voyageur. March 6th.—We found ourselves this morning, on awakening, anchored at some distance from Zeila, at least six miles. The shallowness of the sea over the outstanding coral reef prevented even our small vessel from approaching nearer to the town, and I could see from the deck several natives wading from our own and other vessels towards the shore. In about one hour, the keeper of the prin- cipal gate seaward came on board in a small boat, bringing three sheep as a present from the governor. He was accompanied by two or three of the Arab soldiers, of whom sixty or seventy are employed to defend the town, in case of its being attacked by the Soumaulee of the surrounding countries. From what I could learn, Zeila was held by Arab and native merchants; the Dowlar, or governor, being appointed by the Sheriff of Mocha, who formerly received some small tribute from the town. Allee Shurmalkee has since my visit either seized or purchased this town, and hoisted independent colours upon its walls; but as I know little or nothing save the mere fact of its possession by that Soumaulee chief, and as this change oc- curred whilst I was in Abyssinia, I shall not say anything more upon the subject. The officer who visited us in our boat, carried VOL. I. D 34 THE TOWN OF ZEILA. rather ostentatiously at his belt, two large and very rudely made wooden keys, with projecting bits of iron wire, which formed a kind of apology for wards. From their appearance, I should suppose that the locks they fitted were not either of a very intricate or very substantial character, and not such as were calculated, without other aids, to effect the exclusion of unwelcome visitors. I had not an opportunity of examining the defences of Zeila, beyond a sight of its wall, twenty or thirty feet high, over which could be seen certain whitewashed and grey stone houses, with flat roofs. Besides two old guns, which we could see from the boat, lying dismounted upon the sands, I was told there were a very few others placed on that part of the wall looking inland. | My. Cruttenden forwarded to the governor some few pounds of gunpowder in return for the sheep, but declined on this occasion his polite invitation to visit him, promising to see him on his return to Berberah, which he hoped would be in a few days, after settling affairs for me in Tajourah. During the night, we took advantage of the land breeze, and made 'Tajourah by the middle of the next day. The difficulty of fixing upon our anchorage was not so nice an affair as with the brig. The narrow and confined opening on the sunken coral reef forms a kind of submarine haven, directly in front of Ta- jourah, in which is the only secure anchorage. It _ was easily found by our vessel, whose light draught of LAND AT TAJOURAH. 35 water admitted of its going over the reef in search of it; and when found, allowed of our bringing up within a very few yards from the shore. This was no little convenience, for our bogalow only carried for communication with the land a small canoe made out of a single tree, and barely able to carry two persons. Mr. Cruttenden’s sword was trusted to the hands of one of the crew, an excellent swimmer, who took rather a novel mode of convey- ing his bright burden to the shore, swimming the whole way completely immersed, save the hand and arm bearing the sword, which was thus carried perpendicularly to the body, with an intuitive knowledge of the mechanical relief to the muscles of the arm afforded by a weight being carried in that manner. Mr. Cruttenden trusted himself into the frail and ticklish canoe, which bobbled upon the surface of the water as if its ill-adjusted centre of gravity would upset itself. He, however, was placed, not without a certain degree of wetting, safely upon the land ; and the dexterous paddler of this tiny craft returned forme. I really do not know how I managed to convey myself into it, nor can I account reasonably for its doing so much for me to the shore; but I recollect very well that I considered it a regular escape, for had I been upset in my then weak state from my previous illness, I should certainly have finished my African travels in the Bay of Ta- jourah. D2 36 CHAPTER III. Reeeption in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our stay.—Occupation. —Amusements.—Geological character of the country—Engag- ing camels for the journey.—Customs of the townspeople.— Public buildings.—Religious ceremonies, law, and justice. T sornep Mr. Cruttenden at the house of the Sul- taun, being directed on my way by a party of little slave children, who formed a rather troublesome train, as they kept importuning me for buttons and beads. The younger girls and infants, however, could not by any inducement be prevailed upon to come near me; and what with the shouting plaguing boys, who followed behind, and the screaming flying children before me, I began to think myself more of a curiosity than I had before believed myself to be. The Sultaun of Tajourah with considerable polite- ness placed us, immediately on our arrival, in pos- session of the elevated cabin before mentioned, and the room below, and then left us to hasten forward the preparation of a meal, consisting of boiled rice, which was soon after brought in. It was placed before us in a large saucer-like dish, with a quantity of milk in a curious kind of basket, made of the ENTERTAINMENTS. Bt larger nerves of the doom palm leaf, sewed very closely together with a finer description of the same material; the inside was overlaid by some black vegetable matter, but of what character I could never properly understand. Having arranged our legs as decently as we could around the table, which was merely a large mat of the palm leaf, we had nearly satisfied ourselves before the arrival of some promised lumps of meat, which, strong and tough, challenged the integrity of our teeth, in the vain endeavours we made to do justice to this part of our host’s hospitality, for we might almost as well have attempted to devour the piece of round leather upon which it was brought. The latter piece of furniture, at all events, afforded some degree of pleasure, for I saw immediately an explanation of the obscure passage in A‘neid, where the Harpy Celzeno is made to say— . “ Ambesas subigat malis absumere mensas,”’ which has been by commentators considered impro- bable and absurd, from the difficulty of supposing how tables, according to our ideas of them, could be eaten. By the sailors in the Red Sea, and among the Arabs, these leathern interpositions between the ground and the food are very general indeed; and I do not see why, in the extremity of a castaway crew, or in a time of famine; these tables, which they certainly are, should not be devoured for want of other food; and parallel cases have frequently occurred in modern times, in the numerous recorded 30 TRAVELLING DRESS. incidents where shoes and even the leathern peaks of soldiers’ caps have formed the only sustenance that could be obtained under similar distressing circumstances. In accordance with the usual custom in Arabia, and which custom has probably been imported from that country with the Mahommedan religion, the first ‘day of our arrival was spent in friendly conversation with the people of the town, who were acquainted with Mr. Cruttenden from previous intercourse, All allusion to the business we had come upon was carefully avoided, the established etiquette of hos- pitable politeness leaving to the stranger the first day of arrival for rest after his journey, and for making him welcome on the part of his enter- tainers. ™ I now assumed the dress which had been recom- mended as the most appropriate for my journey. Over a pair of loose drill trousers, I donned a long yellow frock of nankeen, with sleeves narrowing to the wrist, of a kind which has been used by the Arabs from the time in which the Periplus was written, for among the articles of the commerce of the Red Sea there enumerated, are these very frocks, and the material of which they are made was then principally imported by Indian vessels, as at the present day. A large straw hat, of the double Manilla kind, with a thick layer of cotton wool between the two walls, formed a very light covering for the head, and being quite impenetrable OUR APARTMENT. 39 to the direct rays of an almost vertical sun, was a sufficient protection against the evil most to be feared, ‘‘ a coup de soleil.” The morning after our arrival, a survey was taken of the stores which, during the past night, had been brought from the bogalow, and placed, part in the lower room of our house, and part in the little court adjoining, so that they might be under the eye of Nassah, one of the Arab servants of Mr. Crutten- den, who was appointed to watch over, and who in fact slept among and upon, the boxes and packages. The apartment occupied by Mr. Cruttenden and myself was the elevated cabin, immediately adjoining the residence of the Sultaun. It was rather a long room, with a sloping roof, the centre of which was a few inches above our heads, but at the sides was only two feet high from the floor. The walls consisted of frames, in which were sliding shutters of most irregular construction, and of every dirty colour that can be conceived. The floor of the upper end was raised about a foot into a kind of dais, or, as Mr. Cruttenden styled it, a spare bed, not being more than five feet in its longest direction, and upon which had been spread his sleeping carpets for the night. The entrance into our novel residence was a square hole in the farther corner of the floor, through which we ascended and descended, like stage ghosts, carefully inserting our toes in any little crevices we could see among sundry dry and 40 OCCUPATION. rotten sticks, which assisted the mats in forming the wall of our lower apartment. Besides Nassah and a young man named Ab- dullah, a native of Mocha, who officiated as cook, we had another attendant, a slave who had been lent to us by Shurmalkee, on account of his ac- quaintance with the Arabic and Dankalli lan- guages, and who was of considerable use to us as our private interpreter. Whilst we staid in Tajourah, our daily occupa- tions were not of a very varied character, yet still they were such that did not fatigue us with their sameness. Every morning at sunrise, attended by Nassah, we strolled down to the beach, and indulged ourselves in the health-giving bath. Towards evening, accompanied by some of the chief men of the town, we amused ourselves and astonished them by our dexterity with the rifle. ~The Tajourah people themselves only boasted the possession of a solitary matchlock, and the daring proprietor of this not unfrequently joined us, trying his piece with a new silver mounted one which we had brought with us as a present from Capt. Haines to Izaak, but as no inducement could prevail either upon him or his son to discharge it, Nassah was always called upon to relieve these gentlemen from the danger and honour of firing. The features of our orderly Nassah were a good specimen of those which characterize a numerous class of Arabs, living on the sea coast of Arabia, OUR SERVANT NASSAH. 4] who are decidedly of negro origin. The word which designates them, in fact, expresses this; Seedee being derived from the word Assuard, which sig- nifies in the Arabic language, black. His face was nearly triangular, the apex at the chin, the base a long flat forehead, whilst his nose was the exact reverse of this, the apex being between the eyes, and its base below spreading out into two large and flat-like nostrils, which seemed to repose upon, rather than arise from, his dusky cheeks. His mouth was an awful gap; but all the deformity of his countenance was more than compensated by the pleasing expression of his humorous looking little eyes, that told of single purposeness, fidelity, and contentment; and that quiet resignment to cir- cumstances, which was a great characteristic of his manner and mode of expressing himself, ‘If it please Allah,” ‘‘ Allah has me in his keeping,” being favourite replies of his. Tall and erect; his posture graceful without effort, in his well arranged Arab costume his appearance was very picturesque. Always on his guard from any surprise, and proud of his occupation, I could see that he was sincerely attached to his master, Mr. Cruttenden. He acquitted himself very well as a marksman, with the clumsy but handsome matchlock, and was certainly the ‘‘ magnus Apollo” of the black beauties of Tajourah. Our rendezvous on occasions of these shooting matches, was generally on the summit of a low 42 APPEARANCES OF COAST. cliff of coral limestone, which stood a few hundred yards in rear of the town, and which extended two miles inland to the base of a gravel bank, perhaps 100 feet high, capped by a thin stratum of coarse black lava. The undermining of this bank is very rapid and considerable during the rainy season, so that large masses of the superincumbent lava are continually breaking off and rolling into the beds of numberless temporary torrents below. The period of the first appearance of this lava cannot have been more than a few hundred years ago, and volcanoes have certainly existed on this coast within the recorded history of the earth. A few miles in the interior, between Raheita and Ta- jourah, is still a range of hills evidently of igneous origin, called by the natives Jibel Jann, or Demon Mountains. The same name is also given to a more recently active, but very small volcano situated on the road to Shoa; and which was represented by the natives to be the residence of some turbulent genius confined there by Soloman, in accordance with some of the commonly received Arabic traditions. This coral reef, however, afforded the most interesting proof of the raising of the coast having occurred during the present existing state of things, as regards the direction of winds and currents in the surrounding sea, as also of its being constructed by the same species of Zoophites, who are now producing its counterpart in the present bay. I VOLCANIC INFLUENCES. 43 have stood on this old inland reef during the after- noon, when the reflection of the sun’s rays from the surface of the present immersed bed of coral, in front of Tajourah, has plainly showed the parallel- ism of its outer edge with that of the reef upon which I was standing, and a separation or indenture in the latter also corresponded exactly with the narrow channel in which anchorage is now found near to the present shore, and which must have been produced, in both cases, by the operation of similar natural causes, acting under exactly similar circum- stances. More alteration in this part of the world has been produced by volcanic action than can be conceived by endeavouring to form an idea of it by comparison with the changes effected by the occa- sional outbreaks of Vesuvius or Etna. Con- vulsions of the earth, and ejection of molten lava upon a most extensive scale, can only account for the great alteration which has evidently, in modern times, taken place in the physical geography of the whole country of Arabia, the eastern shore of Africa, and probably over a considerable portion of the bed of the Indian Ocean in this neighbourhood. Sir G. M‘Kenzie’s description of the phenomena which have attended volcanic action in Iceland, approaches somewhat to that which may be supposed was here once exhibited, or that a succession of con~ vulsions, similar to the great earthquake of Kutch, in Scinde, of which Sir S. Raffles gives such an inter- esting account, have here, at some former period, 44 DISTRIBUTE PRESENTS. exerted the same appalling agents, and produced the extensive alterations in the previous character of this once blessed land, abounding with life and with natural beauty, but which is now, even by the Arab, wandering over his almost equally miserable desert, designated, and most appropriately, as the ‘“‘ deserted quarter of the world.” The day after our arrival was occupied in pre- paring and presenting such presents as were intended for the chief people of Tajourah, generally consisting of long robes or body-cloths of white calico, and fotahs, or finely manufactured parti- coloured waistcloth, much prized by both the Arabs and the Dankalli. After this important business was concluded to the satisfaction of all, some conferences were held respecting the number of camels we should require, to apportion fairly among the numerous owners of them, the stores to be conveyed up; for the remuneration that was determined upon being very high, plenty of appli- cants were found putting in their claim to be employed. The competition would have been very beneficial, could it have been brought to bear upon the price required for each camel; but the unso- phisticated Adal savage was as acute upon such matters as the craftiest Chinese, and the system of the Hong merchants of monopolizing the trade was fully acted upon by the chief men of Tajourah. Mr. Cruttenden, as Wakeel of the English Govern- ment, was obliged to transact all business through LONG DETENTION. 45 the hands of the Sultaun’s agents, who were Izaak, the brother of the Sultaun, and his friend and seconder on all matters of State policy, Mahomed Cassim. ‘These worthies really deserved whatever present they received subsequently to my departure from Mr. Cruttenden, for the trouble, anxiety, and real danger they must have incurred in satisfying, pacifying, and denying the crowd of bullying mur- derers, who all required a share of the hard, bright dollars, which were always sure to be poured into the town in payment of those services the English Government might require from them. Kalahms, or councils, were being continually held, now to settle quarrels arising out of the discussion, and then to discuss again some other subject, until another quarrel had arisen. Nearly a month was spent in this unsatisfactory manner, when Mr. Cruttenden resolved upon imme- diately returning to Aden, taking with him the packages, thus putting an end to the deception and procrastination we had submitted to so long. He accordingly sent a letter to Captain Young, who was still at Berberah, requesting him to send again Shurmalkee’s boat to receive us. Immediately this transpired, which it did only so soon as the mes- senger had departed, we observed a remarkable increase of energy on the, part of Izaak and Cassim, for during that day we were disturbed by the continual succession of parties coming to examine, and endeavouring to form some judgment 46 SINGULAR CUSTOM. as to the weight of, the different boxes, favouritism showing itself in allowing friends to make these surreptitious visits by night also, to determine the choice of loads for their camels. Excuses the next day were also made for our long detention, and assurances that we should certainly start the first propitious day, which was considered to be the next Friday, at the time of the afternoon prayer. During the four weeks we had been compelled to reside in Tajourah, few incidents occurred worthy of being recorded. Most of our time we were sitting below in the court, on a rude, cord- bottomed couch, covered with a mat. Close to the ends were placed two large pillows, belonging to Mr. Cruttenden, for us to recline upon; whilst, before us, squatting upon the ground, and ranged along the opposite wall, were generally some of our Dankalli acquaintances, who seemed to be anxious to learn something of our institutions and manners. Discussions upon the Christian religion were very frequent; and they soon were made to understand the difference between us and the Roman Catholic nations, whom they include under one name—Faringee. I also became acquainted with a singular mode of descent, or manner in which the power and title | of Sultaun is transmitted to the next possessor. It appears that Tajourah is principally inhabited by two subdivisions of the great Adu Allee tribe, the same from whom it has been asserted the Abyssinian OF DESCENT. 47 name of this people (Adal) is derived. These two families (the Burhanto and the Dinsarrah) have each their own Chief, who alternately assumes the supre- macy of the town on the death of the other, whilst the next expectant fills the office of Vizier, or- chief adviser. This mode of succession does not appear to be peculiar to Tajourah, but to be a general principle of state economy through all the important tribes; for, in the same manner, I had an opportunity of observing, was determined the possession of the chief dignity among the Debenee; and I was given to understand it was also the custom of the 4Vahamah, and the Muditee of “Owssa. The present Sultaun of Tajourah is named Mahomed, and belongs to the Burhanto family ; the Vizier, who was absent on a pilgrimage to Mecca when we first arrived, was the principal man of the Dinsarrah. He returned in time to receive a present, to prevent him interfering in the arrangements, which were then just com- pleted, and a promise of future patronage on the next occasion of a kafila being required by our Government. His arrival accelerated, in some measure, our departure; for had we remained any time afterwards, he would certainly, with his friends, have compelled a change in the distribution of the stores, and thus have led to another detention, or perhaps would have entirely prevented their going up to Shoa. Izaak and Cassim, who had had it so far in their own hands, were therefore interested in 48 DRESS OF THE NATIVES. hastening the departure of the kafila; and from the day of the Vizier’s first appearance in Tajourah, I found the boxes were gradually removed from under our own care to the houses of the carriers. On occasions of counsel, it was usual for the prin- cipal men of the town (Hukells, as I heard them called) to assemble in front of the Sultaun’s resi- dence, where they sat upon their heels, or upon the large stones and trunks of the date trees placed for that purpose. With his back leaning against the enclosure of his own house, the Sultaun Mahomed occupied a stone, with Izaak generally sitting on another by his side, together helping the parties present to small cups of strong black coffee. This was poured out of a long-necked, globular, earthenware vessel, of common red clay, into the mouth of» which was stuffed a quantity of dried grass, to act as a stramer. The cups were of the same coarse manufacture, being exactly in form and appearance like the very smallest flower-pots in a green-house, except that the latter, without the aperture at the bottom, would, I think, be much more elegant and convenient. The usual dress of the males of Tajourah was the fotah, or waist-cloth, and the sarree, which is an Indian term for part of a woman’s dress, exactly corresponding to it in use and shape. It is a long robe, worn round the body, generally of white calico, with a red or blue border at the two extremities; it is usually among the towns- FEMALE ORNAMENTS. 49 people seven cubits long—that is, seven times the length of the hand and arm from the elbow. Among the Bedouins—the people inhabiting the country—it is but three and a-half, or about the same size as a Scotch plaid, which I noticed one day, as I saw the two distinct and yet similar formed garments drying together upon the ground after a shower of rain. The ladies wear a long blue chemise with short sleeves, and a very heavy necklace, made of beads, shells, or of large carved pieces of mother of pearl, reposes upon their delicate bosoms. Ear-rings are a very extraordinary vanity amongst them. They consist of large loops of twisted brass wire, five or six in number, placed each through its own per- foration in the outer lobe of the ear; whilst depend- ing from each of these is one, sometimes two oblong plates of tin, or pewter, at least an inch broad, and one and a-half inch in length. Bracelets and anklets of brass and pewter, large and heavy, were very common among them; and as they chanted their monotonous songs of prayer or grief, they clattered them against each other as a kind of ac- companiment to their voices. ‘They dressed their hair in a number of small plaits, which were con- nected round the back of the head by parallel bands of red or white cotton, interwoven with and cross- ing the hair transversely, and in this manner form- ing a kind of tippet upon the neck and shoulders. I was once a witness to the difficulty of unravel- VOL. I. E 50 DRESS. ling or combing out this intangled mass, which reminded me of the hair of Samson, interwoven with the web of the loom. ‘The lady whose hair was to be operated upon sat upon a stone in the court, beneath one of our windows, and behind her, on her knees, was a stout hale slave girl, who held in both hands a long-handled wooden fork-like comb, having four very strong prongs, which she dragged through the woolly, greasy, and black hair of her mistress with the force of a groom currying a horse’s tail. | When not attired in their full dress, or are occu- pied in household duties, the women wear nothing else but the fotah, or waistcloth, which appears to be a garment common both to male and female Dankalli. The better kind of fotah passes twice round the body, and the ends are secured by the women by merely tucking them under a fold of the upper edge; but the men fasten it up with the belt of their never absent short knife. Sandals made of several layers of cow-skin, prepared with the hair on and sewed together by a thong of leather, sometimes in a very neat and ornamental manner, are worn by both sexes, and are secured to the foot by a loop for the second toe, and slight strips of leather crossing the ancle are attached to the heel, and to two small lappels on the sides. The slave children, who live in the houses of their owners merely for the purpose of recruiting after their long and painful journey from Abyssinia, live OCCUPATION. 51 happily enough whilst in Tajourah ; for too young to comprehend the evils of their destiny, and their bodily wants being carefully attended to, they soon regain their lost condition and health, and are then forwarded to the markets of Mocha and other parts of the Red Sea. ‘They are nearly all dressed in a long dirty frock of very coarse calico, which consti- tutes the whole of their apparel. The male inhabit- ants of Tajourah have no other occupation than the traffic in slaves, which they exchange for the mer- chandise of India and Arabia, but principally the former, whose traders they meet at the fair of Ber- berah. The women occupy themselves with household duties, and carrying water from a well about half a mile from the town. The water is carried in large -entire skins of the goat, which they tan with the pounded bark of a mimosa, very common in the jungle near the town, and which, moistened with a little water, they rub well into the skin. If it be designed to be divested of the hair, the skin, before’ being tanned, is left for two or three days until slight putrefaction has commenced, and the hair is then easily detached. ‘The most laborious occu- pation of the women is grinding the jowaree, or millet, which is imported into Tajourah from Aden and the Persian Gulf. They use for this purpose a large flat stone, concave from above downwards, and placed upon the ground, behind this upon her knees, the woman, half naked, with long depending E 2 ‘spd MANUFACTURES. skinny breasts, hangs over the mill, passing and repassing the grain beneath a large heavy rolling- pin of stone. During the progress of the operation, she frequently sprinkles the bruised mass with water, until a fine powdered paste is produced, which, without more preparation, is carried away’ to be baked upon the kilnlike oven I have before described. It requires some time to make a few pounds of bread in this manner; and when baked into flat cakes of about one pound each in weight, they are, as might be expected, very heavy, and of a disagreeable acid taste. Whilst grinding, two or three slaves, or women, (for the same term is applied to all,) relieve each other, so that labour, except in the house of a poor man, is not great. I saw in Tajourah two old men weaving, who had learned the art in Abyssinia; also an Arab blacksmith. It is usual for all the young men to be able to make their own sandals. One of their principal occupations in-doors is to make wooden spoons, sometimes carved in a most elegant manner, and fedeenahs, or rests for the head during the night, and which are the constant companion of the Dankalli when journeying. They differ considerably in form from the wooden pillows of the New Zealanders ; but still it is singular that a somewhat similar manner of resting the head during the night is in use among these two distant and distinct nations. The ancient Egyptians em- ployed the fedeenah exactly of the shape of those THE MOSQUES. 53 of the Dankalli; but these, it seems, were some- times made of alabaster, and covered with hiero- glyphics. The principal mosque of the place stood at the further end of a large open space, reaching to the sea-shore, in the centre of which was the solitary cannon used as a saluting battery on particular occasions, and the touchhole of which vied in extent with the bore of the piece. Occupying one side of the open space was the square enclosure of mats, with little huts of the same material, which had been erected for the use of the English agent in Tajourah, Mr. Hatchetoor, on the occasion of the last kafila, or second division of the stores, being sent up to Shoa with Messieurs Bernadtz and Scott. Here, during one night, three of the native servants were treacherously murdered as they lay asleep, by some of the inhabitants of the town. On the other side were a few native houses, stand- ing in the usual compounds, or courts, and out of the doors of which peeped, with a mixture of curiosity and alarm, several little slave children whenever we passed by. This mosque stood between the commencement of two narrow lanes, the one leading through the town, the other to the Sultaun’s house, and completed the third side of the irregular square, which was open towards the sea. The mosque was built in a square form, with the untrimmed branches of trees, as they were cut off in the jungle, and thatched 54 HYPOCRISY. with leaves of the palm-tree, fastened down by the common string of the country, made of the leaf of the doom palm split and twisted by the hand into a strong rope ; a small fence of stones, two or three feet high, enclosed in front a little semicircular court, in which were planted four palm-trees, two on each side of the entrance. In this court, squatting under the shade of the trees, or idly lounging upon the top of the wall, were collected all the idlers of the town; and as these, besides gossiping and dozing, were particularly attentive to the daily prayers and ablutions as prescribed in the Koran, I had not a doubt that they were the worst characters in Ta- jourah, for I never met among the Mahomedans a strict observer of the stated hours and forms of prayer, but I always found him to be crafty, design- ing, and ‘treacherous. The only man I ever met with during my subsequent journey, who deli- berately, and for days, watched for an opportunity to assassinate me, was one of these pharisaical rascals, who always chose the largest boulder or detached piece of rock he could find, on which to exalt himself above every one else during the per- formance of his prostrations or prayers. ‘T'wo other mosques, the only stone buildings in Ta- jourah, were much inferior in size to the one I have just described, being but a foot or two higher than the devotees; the roofs were flat, and a white lime- wash, prepared from the roasted shell coral reef behind the town, slacked with water, had been RELIGIOUS OPINIONS. 55 freely applied to the walls outside, but having no windows, the interiors looked like open sepulchres. One of these stood at a short distance behind the house of the Sultaun, the other flanked the sea front of the town, at the opposite extremity of which was a ruined stone building, of a square form, standing close to the water’s edge, and which, I suppose, was meant originally for a protecting tower, but nothing except the remains of the walls were left to enable us to form any idea of its original character. The mosque on the sea-shore was much frequented at the time of the morning prayers, immediately before and after sunrise, great num- bers of the inhabitants taking advantage of the sea to indulge in a more extensive ablution than they could conveniently perform during the rest of the day. Although I always professed to be of the same reli- gion as Mahomet, that we both could have worship- ped God together, and as regarded the stated number of times, I might also have been an advocate for the first proposal made to him by the angel Gabriel, of at least five hundred prayers per day being neces- sary, still I objected to the laws and regulations he had established, and preferred, with all deference to the opinions of my Dankalli friends the institutes of Jesus; and as they admitted he was a prophet sent from God, I contended that I could not be much in error in following his instructions, even if judged by the Koran. I did not find it necessary, 56 MODE OF PRAYING. therefore, to become a convert to Islamism, or I might, as the enterprismg Burckhardt has done, dilate upon their belief and form of worship. I noticed, that they prayed very regularly five times a-day, with their faces turned towards Mecca; once immediately before and again after sunrise; then came the Assair, or afternoon prayer, between three and four o’clock ; and again before and after sunset. Hach service is preceded by carefully wash- ing all parts of the body that are not covered by the clothes. ‘The ceremony commences by several devotees standing up in one long row in front of the mosque, which is always so built as to have a proper regard to the situation of Mecca. ‘Their open hands are firstbrought close ly up to the ears, whilst they repeat some short ejaculations respecting the greatness of God, the compassionate, the only one; then stooping in the attitude of a low bow, the hands resting on the knees, something of the same sort is again repeated, and down they all sit together, in the Arab fashion, on the bent legs, not crossed in front, like the ‘Turks, but turned under them the contrary way. After sundry satisfactory looks about them, and stroking their beards, if they have any, all bend their heads to the earth, press- ing the forehead hard upon the ground two or three times successively; then, after a little more sitting, turning to their right and left hands, they repeat, in each position, protestations of peace with all the world, and rising up, depart to their several CIRCUMCISION. 57 avocations, meeting again at the next stated hour of prayer, to repeat exactly the same devout cere- monial. On one occasion, I had a good laugh at the little play of some boys of the Sultaun’s house- hold, who pretended to go through the ceremony of circumcision, and in which they performed their parts with great gravity, and all attention, no doubt, to the details of that, to them, very interesting operation. It must be observed, that circumcision among the Dankalli, as among other Mahomedans, is frequently deferred to a very late period, the boys, or young men rather, being sometimes sixteen or eighteen years old before they are thus made eli- gible for reception into the paradise of the faithful. To proceed, however, with a description of the cere- mony, as it was acted in the little court before our house. ‘The door being thrown open by the attend- ants, a boy, representing the grave old Kadee, with the operator, entered side by side, followed by the father and the candidate for circumcision, and these by a crowd of friends who, when the operation began, formed a circle before the Kadee and the father, who sat very sedately upon a couch. ‘The operator, with a piece of stick, then commenced acting his part, whilst the boy laid upon his back on the ground, kicking and shrieking, pretended to suffer great pain, which, as in our pantomimes, was, of course, the fun of the whole thing. He, unfortunately, overdid his part, at least did it so naturally and 58 ZEK ARS. with so much noise, that some of the neighbours came rushing in to see what accident had happened. Their appearance put to flight the whole company of juvenile actors, who got off, however, with some tumbles over each other through the narrow door- way, except the circumcised one, who being caught by Shurmalkee’s slave, Abdullah, got a few cuffs upon the head, and a kick or two behind, with a polite request that he should convey them to the mock Kadee, as part payment of his expenses on the occasion. I took a note of this as it afforded me an opportunity of completing the account of the ceremonials of the Mahomedan religion by Burck- hardt, all of which, excepting the circumcision, and which, by-the-by, he must have submitted to, he has so admirably described. Without compromis- ing myself, I had an opportunity in this farce of witnessing the principal features of the first neces- sary step of Mahomedan proselytism, as performed according to law. I frequently observed a religious ceremony that seemed to be a spontaneous outbreak of religious fervour on the part of individuals, rather than a generally recognised portion of their devotions. Towards evening, a large circle of some twenty or thirty men would commence a loud and long continued repetition of the word Allah, for nearly a quarter of an hour; and then being served, each drank a small cup of coffee, whilst one of their number, with an open Koran on the ground before IDEAS OF JUSTICE. 59 him, read a portion of one of the chapters, at the termination of which would commence again the calling upon the name of Allah, rocking themselves backwards and forwards in the most violent manner until nearly exhausted, when another supply of coffee being ready, and a portion of the Koran read as before, they prepared themselves for another bout of the vociferation. This they called a zekar, and would sometimes keep it up the whole night, much to the disturbance of their less devout neighbours. The Dankalli women are greater apparent devo- tees of Islamism than those of any other eastern country I visited. Continually, whilst at work, they chant some sacred passages of the Koran, or as- semble in each other’s houses to join in domestic zekars; and here I must observe, that though some- what attempted on the part of the Sultaun’s family, from an affectation of Arab customs, the women are not precluded, except by their own feelings of pro- priety, from the freest intercourse with the men. In their judicial proceedings, they affect to be directed entirely by the law of the Koran, and have a very quiet fat old Kadee, who superintends mar- riages, circumcisions, and other civil and religious ceremonies; but from what I could learn from a conversation held by Mr. Cruttenden with Cassim, very summary proceedings sometimes characterize their administration of justice. Ohmed, the eldest son of the Sultaun, had with 60 PUNISHMENT FOR THEFT. real Eastern cunning, obtained a present from us on the plea of his going to Abasha with me. On the near approach of our departure he intimated, in reply to our asking him if he were ready, that when he said he was going to Abasha he meant to Gondar, and not with me to Shoa; and seemed highly pleased at having thus outwitted Mr. Cruttenden, who sup- posed that by Abasha, Ohmed meant to say that he was to accompany me to Shoa. Of course, under our circumstances, Mr. Cruttenden could only take this deception in good part; but in the evening, Ohmed and a good number of the principal men > being in our place, Mr. Cruttenden commenced the conversation by asking Cassim, if there were justice to be procured in Tajourah? ‘Of course; cer- tainly. Do we not profess Islamism?” was the prompt and almost offended reply. ‘‘'Then how do you punish theft ?” asked Mr. Cruttenden. ‘‘Oh,” replied Cassim, “‘ we drag the thief down to the beach, and haul him about in the sea-water till his stomach is quite full, we then drag him along the sand till he throws it up again; after that, we kill an ox, eat him, and make the thief pay for it; and he then is received into society again.” ‘This was too amusing a relation not to be interpreted to me by the kindness of Mr. Cruttenden, who postponed the application of the reason of his inquiry, to the deceit practised upon him by Ohmed, for the pur- pose of enjoying with me this account of the wild justice of the Dankalli. re 61 CHAPTER IV. Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of Tajourah.—Arrival in that town, from Shoa, of Demetrius and Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations for our departure.—The day fixed for our start.—Leave Tajourah on the 27th of March. Durine my stay in Tajourah, the fair at Berberah broke up, and three or four boats belonging to the town returned, some of them firing guns to an- nounce their approach, the reports of which, as was justly observed by Nassah, being very thin com- pared to good fat English ones. As each boat anchored, the rais and passengers, if there were any, dressed in their cleanest and best apparel, proceeded to the Sultaun’s house, escorted by a mob of the townspeople, to an audience with his Majesty, who received them with great formality. Every one touched his hand, and then kissed their own, placing the ends of their fingers immediately afterwards on their foreheads, the usual mode of Arab salutation. After this, the whole assembly repeated the opening chapter of the Koran called the Fahtah, to intimate the peaceable nature of the meeting. ‘The latest news of the fair were now discussed, the ever-circulating coffee sent round, 62 MEET DEMETRIUS the Fahtah again was joined in; and so terminated the business of welcoming the return of the parties home. Some three or four days previous to our starting, a kafila from Abyssinia came in, and with it arrived two Greeks, who had long been residing at the court of Salie Selassie, the Negus, or King of Shoa. Their names were Demetrius and Joannes; whilst in Abyssinia they had professed Christianity, but now found it convenient to be very devout Mahome- dans, and called themselves, the former, Hadjji Mahomed, the latter, Hadjji Yoseph. ‘They were in no very good condition, having been robbed on this side the Hawash, by one of the tribes of the Dankalli people living near that river. ‘They re- ported also, that three discharged Indian servants of Capt. Harris’s were killed at the same time, and accounted for their own escape by their being Mahomedans. ‘They farther informed us that only one-half of the stores last sent up had reached Shoa, the rest having been plundered by the Bedouins. All the English party had, however, arrived in safety. They begged to be given a passage to Aden, and also for any article of clothing we might have to spare. Our interview with these men took place in the usual court of audience, before the Sultaun, Isaak, and Cassim; and Mr. Cruttenden having in the meantime sent his servant for two shirts, Cassim, to prevent any dispute between the two men, very gravely undertook AND JOANNES. 63 to decide by lot which shirt each should have. Placing his face in his cloth he received from Demetrius a piece of stick, and from Joannes a small stone, without of course knowing the choice of either, then uncovering his face, he placed upon each shirt the representative of the individual that should have it; and who, accordingly, received from the hands of the Sultaun the, to them, very wel- come present. After our interview with these men, and we had returned to our own court-yard, Cassim came in and remarked, it was very foolish of Demetrius and his friend affecting Mahomedanism in Tajourah, when their religion and situation in Shoa were so well known to him, he having fre- quently seen them in that country. He seemed rather vexed at the mistrust evinced by this cir- cumstance; and, appealing to us, asked if we thought they would have been any the worse treated had they come in the character of Chris- tians. We found afterwards, that with all their protestations of poverty, these men had brought down several slave-girls, whom they were desirous of carrying over to Mocha, and by their sale obtain funds to carry them to Constantinople. This coming to the ears of Mr. Cruttenden, he peremptorily refused them a passage in his boat, and told them that if they brought their slaves to Aden, their relative positions would certainly be reversed, that they would be imprisoned, and their bondswomen be made free. 64 ANCIENT REMAINS. Having heard in Aden from _ conversations with a missionary who had visited Tajourah that some ruins existed near that town, which could only be referred to the labours of some © highly civilized people in a condition far superior to the present state of the inhabitants, I was par- ticular in my inquiries concerning the traditional history of the place. ‘The Sultaun, who appeared to be one of the oldest men, informed me that in his younger days stone walls of some extent, but completely in ruins, were to be seen on the road to the well, and offered to accompany Mr. Cruttenden and myself to point out their situation. ‘Their site was about half way between the town and the well. All traces of them above ground had long since disappeared; but by raking over the spot with the butt end of a spear very evident marks of the foundations of some extensive buildings were to be seen, but still were too indistinct to enable us to form any idea as to their character. A few yards distant from them we found, nearly perfect, a regular formed millstone of extraordinary dimensions, made of a black coarse volcanic rock, and weighing at least 600 pounds; the Sultaun could give us no other account of its origin than that it had been brought down from the hills by the rain. Respect- ing the stone houses, foundations of which we had been examining, he told us that he had been informed by his father, that the Turks had erected them when they had possession of the country. _ THE WELL. 65 It is necessary, however, to observe, that there are no remains of ancient buildings, either in this country or that of the Soumaulee, concerning which the natives will not tell the same tale, that they were towns once occupied by the Turks. I was often told during my journey through the Adal country of ruined houses built of stone and lime, being in the neighbourhood, and my in- formants invariably added that they had formerly belonged to the Turks; sometimes, as if correcting themselves, explaining that they meant the Ferin- gees, for that the old possessors had not been Mahomedans but Christians. Proceeding to the well, we found the mouth of it surrounded with alow fence of stones, about two feet high. The shaft was about fifteen or sixteen feet deep to the surface of the water, which is always plentiful and sweet. At some little distance, their extremities placed in the earth, were six upright halves of the same kind of mill-stone we had just before seen; all of which, according to the state- ments of the numerous slave-girls who were filling their water-skins, had been brought from some place among the hills by the torrents in the wet season, so far according with the Sultaun’s story, and perhaps originating from the same sources of information. The questions that naturally arise are, to what people must we attribute these works of art, so supe- rior to the capabilities of the present inhabitants vou. I. F 66 PREPARATIONS of Tajourah, are even these rude mill-stones, and for what purpose of manufacture could they have been originally designed. The climate of the country in which we find them precludes the idea of their being used for the grinding of wheat; nor would the jowaree, I think, be used as food by people so advanced in civilization as these stones indicate. I am quite at a loss to account for their presence, for no production of this country, as it now exists, could require their employment, and the difficulty can only be surmounted by supposing them to have been the product of a period anterior to the volcanic era which has made the whole of this country a desert. Some examination of the country to the north and east of Tajourah may, perhaps, at a future day prove the existence of extensive ruins in the neighbourhood; and this I feel more inclined to believe from the name of Tajourah itself, which appears to me to signify the dependent village of the black population, of some once great and flourishing city. The time was now approaching for my departure. The Arab blacksmith had been two or three days at work making me a crooked dagger to be carried with three small pistols in my belt, and which enabled me to present a very warlike front. The rumours of assassinations and Bedouin attacks, made me wish to be ready in cases of extremity. I am fully convinced that the greatest danger in travelling among savage and lawless tribes FOR THE JOURNEY. 67 is fancied security, and to be really safe, the traveller must be always prepared to meet their attacks. He will find his best protection to be a constant suspicion of every man’s intentions until fully convinced of his peaceable character, or that he is quite aware of the ability to reward him for his protection and friendship, or to punish him for any attempts upon life or property. Two saddle-bags of cowskin dressed with the hair on, were made also by the blacksmith; they had no pretensions to elegance, certainly, but as they were capacious enough for me to stow in them all the wardrobe I had selected for the journey, and also several pounds of biscuit, and a small cheese, I did not mind their not being of a make that would have commanded the en- tire approbation of a bagsman accustomed to travel only on English roads. A mule was also purchased for my use, a good old Shabah, as my Dankalli servant Allee used to delight in calling her. She was a remarkably staid steady-going animal of a sober grey colour, and had been so accustomed to travel up and down the road we were going, that I really believe she could have taken me to Shoa without a guide, and had become so used to the regular slow two miles an hour pace of the camels, that she never could be induced to go on any faster, and always seemed most happy when she was at the very end of the line walking close under the tail of the last camel. F 2 68 THE LAST DAY. Mr. Cruttenden and myself were hard at work with our needles for two days previous to the start, he kindly undertaking to manufacture a skin-case for my watch, pocket-compass, and ammunition ; whilst I attempted to vie with him in his workman- ship by stitching together two strips of ox-hide into a belt, which, for want of the necessary buckles, was made to button in front. To this the sheath of my Adal knife, or dagger, was secured, as also a little bag for caps and bullets. When finished, the Sultaun very graciously pronounced the belt to be a very creditable effort of genius, with which encomium I felt highly flattered. March 271th, the last day in Tajourah.—The night before, all the boxes were taken to the open place beyond the little stone mosque in the rear of the Sultaun’s house, preparatory for the grand start to our first halt this day, which I was positively informed would be at the distance of at least seven miles. It was not until late in the afternoon, that I was called to witness the camels loaded for the first time, and to count them, as they one by one proceeded on their march. Mr. Cruttenden was present to take farewell; and a whole. circle of the principal hukells of the town, who here held their last calahm, to place me particularly under the care of Ohmed Mahomed, the brother of Cassim and Mahomed, or as he was commonly called Ebin Izaak, the son of Izaak, upon whom jointly now devolved the charge of the Kafilah and AND THE START. 69 myself. Cassim, one of the chief men of the town, and Ibrahim Shaitan, “the devil,” (a very appro- priate name, ) had agreed to accompany us for three days, and see us fairly started on our journey. The camels having already got out of sight, the Fahtah was recited by all present, and a general leave-taking followed. I shook hands with Mr. Cruttenden, and after sincerely thanking him for his kindness and the trouble he had taken in pro- viding everything necessary for my journey, mounted my mule, and went on my way rejoicing at having at last turned my back upon ‘Tajourah, a town I was most heartily tired of. 70 CHAPTER V. Journey to Ambabboo, distance three miles, general direction south-west, along the sea-shore.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Dulhull, distance seven miles, general direction nearly south-west. —Staying at Dulhull. WE first passed a small stream which a shower among the hills during the preceding night had produced, and which was now running directly into the sea: then the well, with the usual crowd of laughing water-bearers, who in groups were com- menting upon the Feringee Kafilah, and as I passed saluted me with an abundance of salaams (peace). Cassim was the only one of the group of five natives that accompanied me who was mounted, and he was unarmed, except with the common dagger of his countrymen. ‘The remainder, excepting Ibra- him Shaitan, who had made himself particularly disagreeable in Tajourah, were strangers to me. I was given to understand they formed a part of the escort of ten men who were engaged to accompany me on the journey. ‘They were cer- tainly the most cut-throat looking individuals I had ever seen; their suspicious glances, low whispers, and rumoured characters, for they were some Be- KAFILAH OF CRABS. vat douins of the interior, made me feel rather uncom- fortable at first, and I almost felt inclined to get off my mule, and go to prayers with Cassim, when I saw him dismount as we rode along the beach and commence his ablutions for that purpose. As, how- ever, he made no signal for me to halt, I proceeded quietly along with the rest of the party till we passed a broad current, some feet wide, of small hermit crabs, that were marching along, at a great pace, from the sea, towards the north, in which direction, it must be observed, Meccalay. I pulled up my mule to observe what could possibly be the reason of such an array passing along, and my wild- looking friends coming up, Ibrahim, whose know- ledge of Arabic rivalled mine, looked in my face Inquiringly, and pointing to the crabs, remarked, “fennah rah?” (where go) to which I replied in equally good Arabic, “hadge” (pilgrimage), at which he raised a loud laugh, and telling his friends in their language, they seemed to enjoy the joke exceedingly. After this incident I got a little more confidence, and was just going to ask Ibrahim some question relative to the time we should be on the journey, when a sudden turn brought us to a little savannah, surrounded with date and mimosa trees, whilst beyond, rising high above the bright green foliage, was a pretty regular amphitheatre of high conical hills. As we had been scarcely an hour reaching this place, and I saw by the boxes being piled up that a halt was intended, 72 REACH AMBABBOO. I was rather astonished at finding our first day’s march so very short, and Cassim riding up, I put the question to him if it were intended to start again in the night, as is frequently the case with Kafilahs to avoid the heat of the day. Cassim, however, told me that we should not start again until the next morning very early, a number of camels and men not having joined who intended to accompany us to Abasha. My new servant Zaido, a slave of Ohmed Mahomed, was here introduced tome. He had been engaged to attend me on the road for twenty dollars, to be paid on our arrival in Shoa. He was a tall good-natured sort of a fellow, but the greatest coward I ever met among these brave people, and the very reverse in this respect to his much shorter fellow-slave, Allee_ Ohmed, who also had been ordered by his master to look after my mule, and who was ever ready to perform other services for me in the expectation of a few gilt buttons, and a boxeish, or present, at part- ing. Neither of them was much more than twenty years old, but Allee had proved himself a man of some courage in a battle with the Issah Soumau- lee, in which he had killed his opponent. Immediately on arriving at the halting place, Allee took my mule, and Zaido brought me my carpet, with my Scotch plaid and Arab cloak, which were rolled up in it, and arranged my bed for the night in an open part of the savannah, placing my saddle under my head to serve for a_ pillow. LEAVE FOR DULHULL. 155 Cassim took up his position on one side of me, and Ibrahim on the other side of Cassim, whilst during the night Alee and Zaido lay, one at my feet, and the other at my head, to guard against any attempt to assassinate me during the night, it being known that many of the Debenee tribe had declared that no white man should pass again through their country, owing to a dispute about the division of five or six thousand dollars they asserted the Sultaun had received from the English, in pay- ment for the purchase of some small islands in the Bay of Tajourah. The murder of three of Capt. Harris’s European escort, eight or nine days’ journey inland, was a painful evidence of the vindictive spirit thus excited. From the Debenee I was afterwards told I had more to fear than from any other tribe I should have to pass through. During the night, I received a note from Mr. Cruttenden, which I read and answered by the light of the moon. A slight shower of rain gave promise of an abundant supply of water during our journey, and was hailed by all as a very propitious omen. March 28th.—Up and off two hours before sunrise. IT would not wait, for my mule, but walked on with Cassim and Ibraliim whilst the camels were being loaded. Our march lay along the sands, where, for a short time, I sat under the shade of some date- palms, whilst my companions bathed and performed their first prayers forthe day. I saw an abundance of game, chiefly guinea-fowl, and the small antelope 74 THE JOURNEY. mentioned by Salt, a graceful little thing, scarcely twelve inches high, of a greyish fawn-colour, with beautifully formed head and large prominent black eyes. My double-barrelled carabine being loaded with ball, I would not shoot at them, fearing that I ‘might miss, and I could not well afford to lose my character as a marksman among the people I was now living with, who consider every white man to be naturally a good shot. . Prayers being over, we again started, and soon passed a small native village of about eight houses, called Ambabboo, where we met some Bedouins with two or three camels who had come with the intention of joining our Kafilah. A little girl here brought me some milk in one of their curiously constructed baskets, and her brother, dragging along a young kid, wanted me to accept it. Cassim, who suspected the real meaning of all this gene- rosity, objected to the kid on the plea of incon- venience. I, however, made them both happy by giving them a few beads and a couple of needles. Leaving the coast, we entered a wood of low mimosa trees, the thorny boughs of which I was obliged to be continually throwing from before my face. We soon came to a fordable part of a small creek communicating with the sea, and which I then found had caused the detour. . The water where we passed was about two feet deep, and after crossing we reached the sea-shore again in a short time, and travelled along the sands until REACH DULHULL. 15 we came to an open bare spot, over which I could see, by the drift wood and large rolled stones, that during the wet season a torrent must rush into the sea. Here we were to halt for the rest of the day. A large Kafilah of natives going to Tajourah had spent the night in the same place, and were just leaving as our small party of pedestrians arrived, the time being the dawn of day, and we having been two hours on the march. The name of this halting-place was Dulhull. I sat down on a large stone, at a short turn in the otherwise nearly direct line of the sea-shore from east to west, which admitted of a fine view of the Bay of Tajourah and the distant sea. The sun, “ from ocean rising,” quickly dissolved the last shades of night, and one of the most lovely scenes my eyes ever beheld extended before me. All the azure and golden tinting of that imaginative painter, Turner, was realized, and I silently acknowledged the injustice of my premature judgment, in con- sidering his pictures very pleasing, but most unnatural. ‘The gorgeous apparel of the cloud- _robed sun, the silvery play of the nearly calm reflecting surface of the sea; the blue rocks of the opposite Soumaulee shore; the palm-tree fringe of the waving line of coast, along which I had just been travelling ; the distant view of Tajourah, and the quiet of its little merchant fleet, aided in pro- ducing an effect of enjoyment in my mind, that perhaps owed some portion of its charm to the 16 JIBEL NARSE. feeling of having at last entered upon the long wished-for life of novel and wild adventure which, from a boy, I had so ardently desired. Behind me rose a succession of bare rugged hills, gradually increasing in height till at the peak of Jibel Goodee, about six miles off, they attained an elevation of 6,000 feet, all evidently of volcanic origin, save the little low heaps of recent sandstone close to the shores of the bay which had been upheaved, probably at the same period with the more imposing rocks beyond them. One of these hills of stratified sandstone had been impregnated with the vapour of a cupras sublima- tion, until it had assumed a light green colour; and upon the strength of about five per cent. of copper, some travellers had represented that it was a Jibel Narse, or hill of copper. Many of the natives were firmly impressed with an idea that it was for the promise thus held out of an abundant supply of this metal, that had induced the English to attempt the purchase of Tajourah and the neigh- bouring country from the Sultaun Mahomed. I may here observe, that a purchase had been effected between this chief and the Indian Government of the two islands; one at the entrance of the bay, and another much smaller, lying in the little channel leading into Goobatul Khhrab, and for which, I believe, the Sultan received some five or six thousand dollars. I was now joined by some of our Kafilah, which DANKALLI CHARACTER. T7 had in the meantime come up and commenced unlading. Zaido placed two mats under the shade of some closely-growing mimosa trees, and one or two of the escort, who seemed willing to patronize me for the sake of the few buttons or needles I could bestow upon them, brought their mats and laid them down all around me. A rude sense of politeness seemed to prevent their pressing incon- veniently near me; but I suspected that it was merely the hollow affectation of courtesy by the most cold-blooded assassins I ever met or ever read of. By their own showing, not one of them that wore a small tuft of hair upon the boss of his shield but had killed and murdered ten or twelve individuals, which, if only understood as two or three, the men surrounding me must have caused the death of at least a score of their fellow-beings ; and the delight and evident zest with which they spoke of or listened to the several struggles in which they had been engaged, told the fierce and cruel character of these demons in human shape. ‘“ Neither the hos- pitality nor the high sense of honour that charac- terizes the savage of America or of the Oceanic Islands, is to be found among the Dankalli tribes. Murder is equally productive of renown as is the most honourable fight; and the same triumphant badges are worn by the valiant soldier and the cowardly assassin. ‘The companion of the day and the sharer of your food will, under cover of night, strike without remorse his knife into your throat ; 718 POLITENESS and of all the savage people that inhabit this benighted land of Africa, the Dankalli are allowed by all to be the most treacherous and cruel.” This was the character I had received of my present com- panions ; and it was necessary therefore that I should be careful to give them no excuse for attempting my life, acting as courteously as possible, distributing needles and bits of paper, loading and firing my pistols repeatedly for their amusement during the day. Having smashed, on one occasion, an earthen coffee-pot that the owner had challenged me to fire at, they were quite satisfied that I could as easily demolish an elephant with one of the little insignificant looking things that they saw I always wore at my waist, and this feeling I did not en- deavour to dissipate, as I saw it had a very good effect upon the bearing of these men towards me. An accident that happened also, by which one of them was nearly shot, made them not over anxious to trust themselves too near to me, or my pistols, and turned out to be a fortunate circumstance, by pre- venting them from closing and crowding around me. As evening drew on, Zaido, who had prepared me a breakfast in the morning of boiled rice and dates, now cooked me some kid’s flesh, a portion of another present I had received in the course of the day from some Bedouin shepherds who were tending their flocks of sheep and goats in the neighbourhood, and who had sent it in by some of their children. The men AND PRECAUTION. 19 did not appear themselves, for among our Kafilah were some individuals of a tribe with whom this Bedouin family had a blood feud. During the whole day I observed several of them assembled on a spur of Jibel Goodee, awaiting the result of our arrival with spear and shield in hand, as if they expected an attack. After supper I directed Allee aud Zaido to make a little fort of boxes, as I saw 1 had nothing to trust to but the greatest precaution on my part. I was only afraid of night attacks, for during the day I felt pretty well assured that I should be quite free from any molestation, but even this partial idea of security led me subsequently into considerable danger ; and, as I hope my expe- rience may be of service to future travellers, my errors shall be duly paraded with the same fairness as those incidents I shall no doubt speak of, from which I expect any credit may arise. The roof of my box-fort or hut was made by _ placing the long camel saddle-sticks across from side to side, over which I threw my carpet, and on this piled camel saddles, mats, and every- thing calculated to awaken me by making a noise in case of any one attempting to uncover my retreat. A good palanquin with locks on the doors would not be a bad carriage for such a country as Adal. The dilemma would be to procure bearers, for I do not think the native Dankalli could by any means be induced to the 80 GARAHMEE. exercise of such a long-continued labour as the patient dauk carriers upon the roads of India. Neither Ohmed Mahomed nor Ebin Izaak was to be seen to-day, and I found that they had returned during the past night to Tajourah, to spend another last day with their families, leaving Cassim in charge of the Kafilah. He sometimes walked up to the trees under which I lay during the day, to see that everything was right with me. A Bedouin, who had kept close to me the entire day, had placed himself at the entrance of my hut when I retired; and Zaido told me he was one of the escort who had sworn to Izaak not to let me go out of his sight, upon the promise of receiving a cloth from his son in Abasha. As he was a very superior-looking man, at least forty years of age, very quiet, and less importunate for trifles than the rest of his country- men, I thanked him, as well as I could, for his attention, and gave him a cotton handkerchief. After looking suspiciously to the right and left, creeping a little way into my hut he secured the gift in a dirty rag to the handle of his shield, which he hung up in my hut to be taken care of, by signs intimating that it would rain, and also that he was my very good friend, insisting at the same time, that I should write his name, Garahmee, down in my note-book. He then turned away to get some boiled rice with Zaido and Allee, whilst I STAY AT DULHULL. $1 turned in upon my mat, covered myself with my plaid and Arab cloak, and composed myself to sleep. March 29.—I found we should not leave Dulhull to-day ; neither Ohmed Mahomed, nor Ebin Izaak, having yet arrived, Garahmee and a new Bedouin friend, Moosa Gra, proposed to accompany me if I chose to bathe in the sea, but as it was in front of and in sight of the Kafilah, I told them I did not require their attendance. After bathing I took my yesterday morning’s position upon the stone on the sea-shore, and again looked with pleasure upon the lovely picture before me. While still enjoying the scene, a sudden flash from the beach in front of Tajourah followed in a few minutes by a booming report, told the departure of Mr. Cruttenden for Berberah, and scarcely had his little vessel returned the salute of the town, and raised her long lateen sail, than she flew as if impatient from the land, ~ and at our distance seemed not unlike a large white bird scudding over the surface of the sea. Mr. Cruttenden having left Tajourah, Cassim and Ibrahim, who had been, I could see, anxiously awaiting the report, thought they could go back to their homes without further trouble. ‘Their pro- testations of anxiety for my safety, and desire to see me well started on my journey, having been sheer humbug, but by which of course they had secured proportionate rewards. I had _ scarcely recovered from the fit of musing, the circumstance VOL. I. G 82 IBRAHIM of my having witnessed the departure of Mr. Cruttenden had occasioned, when these worthies came up to announce their own intention of imme- diately returning to Tajourah. Ibrahim, who had a raw kidney in his hand, offered part of it to me with the most innocent politeness, but which I having with a graceful bow declined, he handed to Cassim, who made but two mouthfuls of it. They amused themselves with my evident surprise at their indulging in such a delicacy as they undoubtedly considered it; and having put me, as they thought, into a good humour with them, proposed their return. IT made no observation in reply, for I was only too glad to get Ibrahim away, as he very evidently disliked me, and all that were of my colour. I had nearly quarrelled with him the evening before, through resisting his attempts to cut the leaves out of a copy of Mr. M‘Queen’s survey of Africa, in an Appendix of which was contained an extract of the route through this country, from the journals of Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, ‘and which I had been comparing with the accounts I was receiving of the road from the natives who surrounded me. Upon learning that the account was that of the missionaries, Ibrahim, for some reason or other, drew his knife, and stated his intention of cutting the book up, but upon my putting it immediately into my saddle-bag, with a very significant expres- sion, the by-standers took Ibrahim away. ‘To all appearance, the circumstance was soon forgotten, or AND CASSIM. 83 for he appeared in a short time afterwards, and asked me to give him some lucifer matches, with which request I immediately complied, and in this manner established peace again between us. On the present occasion Cassim began the con- versation by saying, how anxious he was for the Kafilah to proceed, which was false ; as Zaido had told me but a short time before that we were waiting for some friends of Cassim himself, who were going to join our Kafilah with a few camels, which they intended to load with salt for the Shoan market at the Bahr Assal, and that they would not be ready till the next day. Cassim, however, went on to state, that he was exceedingly angry with his brother, Ohmed Mahomed, for detaining us, and that it was his intention to go back to ‘Tajourah to hasten him on to rejoin the Kafilah; and added, that Ibrahim would also accompany him for mutual protection on the road. - He concluded, by representing that the smallest offering would be gladly accepted, but hinted his expectation of a considerable boxeish for his attend- ance so far, and proportionate to the very impor- tant position he held among the Tajourah people, which, he said, would be considerably dimi- nished, if what I should give him were not what his admirers might expect. As I was not in a humour to understand all this, my little knowledge of Arabic wonderfully diminished, and it was absurd to see the grave personagé Cassim, in consequence, G 2 84 LEAVE FOR throwing his hands and arms about, strutting and looking pompous, and then most benign, to convey to my obtuse understanding the impression most favourable for his wishes. Ibrahim stood very quietly by, cleaning his extremely white teeth with the ever accompanying stick of a singular kind of tree called Woomen, growing in the neighbourhood of Dulhull. He, however, made no observation — until Cassim had finished, and had seen him receive four dollars, then his turn came. Ibrahim was a little spare man, but commenced with saying, that he was quite as good as Cassim, that he was my friend, and, besides, was going to introduce me to another friend of his who would accompany me all the way, and sooner die than see me injured. ‘This friend’s name he made me write down in my book with a particular note, that I should not forget to give him also a boxeish on our arrival in Abasha. As for himself, he added, he was convinced I should do him justice. To my sense of what was due to his numerous excellences, therefore, and to the goodness of Allah, he left all consideration of what bounty I intended to bestow upon him. I had made up my mind to divide ten dollars between them at Segallo, the halting-place where it was originally intended they should leave me, but as that was at some distance, I thought they should get nothing by the little deceit they had practised in keeping me at Dulhull until Mr. Cruttenden had TAJOURAH. 85 sailed, and then saving themselves any farther trouble, by returning immediately to Tajourah. As has been observed, I gave Cassim only four, and to Ibrahim I presented three dollars, observing to the latter, that I had given him more than the extra dollar Cassim had received, in beads, needles, buttons, and matches; for of all the natives, Bedouin, or townspeople, Ibrahim was the most bothering, and greedy in begging everything he could set his eyes upon. When he could obtain nothing else, he asked for medicine, and if I had taken him at his word, and done him full justice, I think I could not have done less than have seized this opportunity of poisoning him, and so have sent him to that place from whence he derived his very unamiable “nom de guerre,’ among his own countrymen, of ‘‘ Shaitan.” Our grief at parting, not being of that excessive kind that would interfere with any opportunities I had of making observations on the people I was amongst, as soon as they were gone I had my mat spread again under the trees, and was soon sur- rounded by others, who were retreating from the hot sun to the same friendly shelter. Some women also came down from among the hills with small skins of clotted milk, which they gladly exchanged for needles. ‘The younger ones are very beautiful girls, but of exceedingly slender form, reminding me strongly of the appearance of the Indian girls in Calcutta, and strikingly 86 WOMEN OF ADAL. different in figure from the female slaves brought down from Abyssinia. These latter are particularly plump, with roundly formed and fleshy limbs, and of rather short stature, whilst the Adal women are thin, muscular, and tall. ‘The latter, too, were con- siderably more vivacious and active, and the characters of their features were as decidedly different as the chief points of their figure. I have before observed, that the genuine Dankalli belongs to the Circassian variety ; but I shall not stay here to form farther comparisons with the Abyssinians, but will wait till I arrive in that country, and can bring my subjects properly before the reader. The older women were repulsive looking witches with dependent breasts, like old black butter skins, lying empty and flat upon the chest. This dis- gsusting appearance is produced by the constant pressure of the band placed over the shoulders, and across the breast, and which secures whatever burden the woman is carrying behind her. ‘They invariably have something stowed away in this manner, either a child, a bundle of split doom leaves for plaiting, an odd bundle of salt, or a large skin full of milk. It is generally suspended from the chest upon the loins, and the constant pressure, in the course of time has the effect of completely obliterating the glandular portion of the breasts, leaving only two long double flaps of black skin, to tell where once the fountains of life had been. They had a constant habit of tapping the mouth PATIENTS. 81 with the tips of their fingers to express astonishment, and pressing both hands to the lower part of the face was the very modest manner in which they walked off their nearly naked bodies, when we came suddenly up to a party of them, for it was seldom they volunteered to stay in my neighbourhood un- less called upon to do so. 262 A FRIENDLY RECEPTION. have been solely created for the purpose of directing them in their wanderings through the wilderness. We find, however, that in Adal the same benevolence has there provided for the Dankalli Bedouin, similar indications for his convenience, in a country where water is only occasionally found. Moses, very properly led the Israelites to believe these signs to be, as they really are, miracles of mercy exerted in the behalf of man, and which still prove, as in the time of that great leader, that the hand of God is always stretched over his creatures, to preserve them in situations, where otherwise, they would be exposed to great pri- vations. All the evening, Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed were engaged in a great council; the men of Herhowlee and of the Kafilah, forming one great circle, between the village and our encampment. Immediately on our arrival the best understanding had been established between us, and after the first surprise occasioned by my appearance had worn away, I was received by the inhabitants of the village, on the same familiar terms as other people of the Kafilah, and some- times visited them in their houses. Here medicine was in great demand, and frequently asked for in exchange, for the milk and butter which were offered. The cause of the calahm this evening I found, was the circumstance becoming known to our Ras ul Kafilah, that a serious quarrel existed ADDITIONAL ESCORT ENGAGED. 263 between the Hy Soumaulee and the Wahama, the next tribe on our route to Shoa. As the treatment of Mahomed Allee, who was a Wahama, when last in Tajourah, had been exceedingly unfriendly, his tribe had determined to resent it, and threatened a very hostile reception, to future Tajourah Kafilahs passing through their country. All this we had been made aware of, when we met the Kafilah of Mahomed Allee at Sagagahdah, and Ohmed Mahomed felt a corresponding anxiety, until he was somewhat relieved, by finding that his friends, the Hy Soumaulee, had also a quarrel with the same tribe. A large council was accordingly called together this evening, to determine upon a com- bined mode of proceeding, to ensure a safe passage through the country of our common enemy. The result was, that an additional escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee were engaged, who were to receive for their services four dollars each man, to be paid on our arrivalin Shoa. After it was all settled, I was requested to give, the security of my promise for its payment; and as I was convinced that any expense really necessary to secure the safety of the stores, would be readily paid on the termination of our journey by the Mission in Shoa, I did not hesitate to assure them, that they would certainly receive, on our arrival, what I considered to be, their very moderate demand. ‘The Hy Soumaulee expressed themselves satisfied, and two-thirds of the required number were immediately enlisted, who, after giving 264 UNANIMITY IN THE CALAHM. their names to be enrolled in my note-book, hastened to their homes, to make some prepara- tions for the journey. April 25th—We were obliged to remain at Herhowlee all this day, to allow of some jowahree biscuit being prepared, for the use of the new escort upon the road. Numerous deliberative calahms were held during the day, for the Dankalli people cannot do the least public business, without having a succession of these council-meetings to determine upon the best course to be adopted. In these calahms, it is usual for every one to sit down in a large circle, holding before him his shield, over the top of which the face alone is visible. In the right hand they hold the spear upright, its butt-end resting upon the ground. Each has a voice in the assembly, but it is very seldom that more than two or three of them speak, and the advice of the elders appears to have the greatest influence. When any difference of opinion arises, the party in the minority never endeavours to argue, but either remains silent or retires from the circle, so that the greatest unanimity always prevails. In case of very different opinions being supported by influential men, I have seen the two parties divide into separate rings. Hach discuss their own particular views, and subsequent con- ferences of the chiefs of either side then determine the course of action to be adopted. During the whole proceedings the greatest care is taken to APPEARANCE WHEN IN COUNCIL. 265 avoid a quarrel. If, however, party feeling should run unusually high, the precaution of a general peace assembly is resorted to both before and after the discussion, when every man takes an oath upon the Koran not to injure the others, so that whilst a number of tribes are combined together in any general business, it very rarely happens that a quarrel takes place among them. With respect to the usual attitude of these people, when sitting in conversation, or in council, their faces just appearing above the upper edge of their shields, it struck me that very probably, this might have given occasion, for the representations made of an Ethiopian people who had no heads, but whose eyes and mouths were placed upon their breasts. No other reason can be found to account for the described appearance of the Blemmyes, and those who have seen the Dankalli sitting behind their shields, either in council or in battle array, must admit, I think, the probability that this national and characteristic custom was the foundation of the ancient report. April 26th.—All the Hy Soumaulee being ready to start, our Kafilah moved off the ground about sunrise. I marched in company with Ohmed Medina and our numerous-escort, over a rich well- watered country for two hours, till we arrived at the commencement of a large plain, flanked by flat- topped lava ridges, where it was again resolved to halt for the day. The plain was called Barradudda., 266 PLEASANT HALTING-PLACE. and afforded excellent and abundant forage for the camels. It was a beautiful spot which was selected for the encampment, the whole surface of the earth being one extensive green sward of fresh young grass. Mimosa-trees there grew to an extraordinary height, festooned from the topmost branches with a many- flowered climbing plant, which extending from tree to tree, formed a continued suite of the coolest. bowers. The alitu, also offered its thick shade of round velvet-like leaves, from amidst which its short white trunk, seemed to represent the painted tent-pole of some bright green pavilion, of the richest material. Doves in all directions fled startled at our approach, only to return immedi- ately, with louder cooing, to the quickly-remem- bered care of their young, who, in flat slightly- built nests of dry sticks and grass, lay crowding to the centre, as if aware of the insecurity of their frail-built homes. Hares in great numbers bounded from beneath our feet, and after running a few yards, would turn to gaze again upon the intruders on the quiet of their retreats, whilst the tall stalking bustard scarcely deigned to notice our arrival, but seemingly intent upon his beetle hunt, slowly removed himself from the increasing noise. The scene was particularly inviting to me after the stones and sand, of the previous few days’ journey, and although our march this morning had not been long, I was not sorry to learn the deter- RELIGIOUS DISCUSSION. 267 mination of the Ras ul Kafilah to remain here for the day. I soon got my carpet and mats arranged, borrowed a wooden pillow for my head, and with two or three of the new escort on one side, and Ohmed Medina on the other, had a long conversa- tion, as we lay under the trees, upon the subject of religion. I endeavoured to make Ohmed Medina ‘understand what a good Christian his Prophet Mahomed was, which was duly interpreted to the amused Bedouins, who all sat very patiently in an attitude of attention, until sufficient novel matter had been understood by Ohmed Medina, to interest them in the recital. There are few interesting subjects, respecting which so little is generally known, as the Maho- medan religion. It professes a belief in one true and only God; and Islamism, apart from the rule of life instituted by Mahomed, was professed by Abraham, by Isaac, and, according to my opinion, which is of no value, but as satisfactory to my own conscience, was also taught by Jesus and his disciples. That our Saviour will appear again, is the cherished hope of every enlightened Mahomedan, and he glories in affirming that all the inhabitants of the world will then become his followers. ‘This is so general an idea, that even the ignorant Mahomedans of the East, firmly believe that the Amhara, or Christian population, of Abyssinia, will at a future time seize Mecca, and destroy the temple. Something similar to this is the expressed fear 268 THE WHAABBEES. of the Turks at the present day, that the Fe- ringees will ultimately take Constantinople, and put down their religion. Both these popular ideas originate from the same source, as that which directs the learned Islam Mollum to expect the coming of Jesus; a tradition respecting Mahomed, who is stated to have confessed, that inasmuch as that Christ was not dead but living, and would come again, he was superior to himself, who was mortal and should die, like other men. The numerous and fast extending sect, the W haab- bees, act up to this admission, and not only are they careful, to avoid all allusions to Mahomed in their prayers, but affect to make intercession in his behalf, by praying that God will forgive him his great sins; for not only they, but all other Mahomedans admit that their Prophet was so far from being immaculate, that he frequently violated the laws which he himself had promulgated as coming direct from Allah. The Whaabbees, who are Mahomedan Unitarians, a few years back, overran all Arabia, destroyed the tomb of Mahomed in Medina, and were about to act in a similar manner towards the temple in Mecca. The first man, however, who had mounted the roof for this purpose, by some accident, was precipitated to the ground and killed. ‘This looked so like a judgment, that the zeal of these reformers abated considerably, and being soon after driven out of the Hedjas, and in some measure suppressed, UNITARIANISM. 269 by Mahomed Allee Pacha, this famous shrine escaped, for some short time, that destruction which I hope yet to see accomplished. I need not enter into details of our interesting conversation, which only terminated with the setting sun. All afternoon we lay discussing matters of religion until it was fully understood by all that I was a Christian Whaabbee; and Ohmed Medina taking hold of my beard, drew it gently through his hand, as he said, that ‘‘ an Ahkeem with such a promise of wisdom as that, ought to be altogether a Mussulman.” “ Thou almost persuadest me to be a Christian,” would have been a more gratifying speech from my Islam companion, but [ am no St. Paul. In my notes upon this conversation, I have remarked that it is my firm conviction that the believers in one God, who live according to the moral precepts of the religion of Jesus, is the sect to whom is reserved, the glory of reuniting in one faith, the present divided family of man. Unitari- anism, is the fore-coming shadow of this to be universally acknowledged belief, and all who profess its tenets should reflect, upon the important object committed to their agency, and encouraged by the high hope, that must result from their thoughts upon the subject, they will perhaps increase their endeavours to spread more widely, the principles of faith which they profess. This observation is inserted solely as a matter of what I conceive to be duty; I hope, therefore, that 270 CONVICTION OF A TRUTH. thus recording my conviction, a bearing testimony to what the natural education of circumstances has taught me to believe to be the truth, will not be charged as presumption; especially when I feel assured that my omitting it, would be an act of the grossest ingratitude to my constant Guide and Guard, who has led and preserved me, through no ordinary difficulties and dangers. 271 CHAPTER. XVIII. Staying at Barradudda.—Milk diet—Wound myself by accidental discharge of gun.—Bedouin skirmish.—Mode of warfare among DankalliimCompensation for wounds and injured property.— Peace re-established. Durine the evening of our first day’s halt at Barradudda, a party of the women of Herhowlee came into camp, bearing upon their loins, in the usual fashion, large skins of milk. They had followed the Kafilah, upon hearing that we had halted at so short a distance. I came in for a share of their delicious burden, and certainly among the many discomforts of a wandering desert life, the constant supply of rich sweet curdled milk, which forms the principal food of the natives, compensates somewhat for the compulsatory absti- nence of an educated stomach, from the cooked viands, and other creature comforts attendant upon civilization. One woman, for a handful of tobacco, brought me a kid skin, containing about a quart of camel’s milk. This is of a very different character, to that of cattle, sheep, or goats, and as it never affords any cream, is never mixed with 272 ALLEE’S ADMIRATION OF OWSSA. the produce of these for the purpose of making butter. It is a favourite drink of the Dankalli, from its medicinal virtues, being a gentle aperient. It is a light and agreeable beverage, having very little body, as connoisseurs are accustomed to say when speaking of their wines. Camels yield milk at all hours, and not merely at the stated morning and evening’s milkings of the flocks, which is a great recommendation of these animals to a Dankalli family. On turning in for the night, Allee the Second sat at the entrance of my hut, telling me a long tale of the luxuries of Owssa, dates, milk, and wheaten bread, and nothing to do but sleep and eat, and eat and sleep. He seemed to think that if there were Paradise upon earth, it was situated in this particular part of Africa; but I expect that the poets of Greece and Rome, held a more correct opinion, when they made it the kingdom of hell, for I am convinced myself, that when they send their heroes to the infernal regions, they are only describing some journey, made into this dangerous and desert-spread continent. The punishments of Tantalus, or the mirage; of Sisyphus, or the whirlwind of sand; and of Ixion for his amour with a cloud, or the necessity of continually revolving water-wheels, to irrigate even the most favoured spots; all tend to connect Africa, in my opinion with the hell of mythological history ; and the natural phenomena there witnessed are the A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. © 273 foundations, of the highly-coloured figurative punish- ments awarded to the guilty, who were supposed to be banished to these dreary and unhappy deserts, in contradistinction to the abode of the blest in the beautiful and luxuriant garden of the Hesperides, the elysium of the West. April 27th.—Barradudda was too abundant of forage and water to admit of our leaving to-day, so we remained, much to my discomfort, for I found the little bug-like tics, as great admirers of beautiful scenery as ourselves, and seemed on this spot to be collected in myriads. ‘They constitute, I should think, a very efficient remedy for the bad effects of too much blood being made by animals, who otherwise might suffer from the unlimited indulgence in good food, this place admits of. After writing out a few notes on the conversation of yesterday with Ohmed Medina, I set about cleaning my carbine. Having drawn the charge of both barrels, as I supposed, I put caps upon the nipple, and to show how little was to be feared from the detonation of these alone, which the surrounding Bedouins thought quite as dangerous as ball and powder, I put my hand very bravely to the muzzle of the gun. On pulling: the trigger, however, much to my surprise, I blew my hand into the mouth of a gaping Bedouin, who, with some others, sat upon their heels watching all my movements, until it came to the explosion, with VOL. I. T Q74 ALARM THE WHOLE KAFILAH. very evident interest. Fortunately, the only injury I received was a severely contused burn of the whole of the palm of my hand, but the Bedouins thinking I must be killed outright rushed from the hut in a great hurry; Moosa dropped the bullet he held in his hand, another, the powder of the only barrel it appeared, that I had drawn the complete charge of, whilst each of the others seemed anxious to get as far away as he possibly could. ‘The fellow whom I had upset, rolled over and over in an agony of mind, in too great a hurry, to get on his legs and run. Ohmed Mahomed, and Ohmed Medina, expecting the worst from the stir that was so suddenly occa- sioned, came with two or three of the Tajourah people to my aid, as soon as they could snatch up their spears and shields, for the commotion and rush to arms had now become general. Quiet, however, was soon restored upon my endeavouring to laugh at the accident, as my friends came up, and who certainly were very sorry to see the state of my hand, the extent of injury to which I could not ascertain, so contracted were my fingers over the palm. Himyah, the matchlock man, was the only one who enjoyed the accident, and he laughed with most unrestrained mirth, as he pointed to the cut on his cheek, not yet cured, and called my attention to the fact, of my having laughed as immoderately, on the occasion of his accident, as he did now, at mine. Having washed QUARREL WITH THE WAHAMA. ye the wound with the hot water Zaido had prepared for the purpose of cleaning my gun, a poultice was made with some biscuits that remained, and binding it on the injured part I retired with gloomy anticipations of the morrow’s examination, expecting to find a most extensive injury done to the tendons of my hand. I could not help though being much amused, with the very-varying accounts of this accident, related by the Bedouins to their women, or strangers, who visited the camp. Among other visitors, were six Wahamas, who came to make some proposition of peace to the Hy Soumaulee people, and on whose account a long calahm was held, for three or four hours during the day. One of them had relations with us, an old man and his son, the wife of the former being the aunt of one of the Wahama, and after the calahm, the family party retired together to the shade of a large mimosa tree, a few hundred yards from the camp, where they sat for some time in friendly conversation. About four o’clock, a sudden commotion among the Kafilah men, all rushing to spears and shields, and loud shouts of ‘‘ Ahkeem! Ahkeem!” awoke me from my siesta. Jumping up from my mat, I seized my firearms, and ran towards the place where Ohmed Medina and Ebin Izaak were beckoning me to come. In front, was a crowd of some twelve or fourteen men fighting in the greatest desperation, and so near to us, that the T 2 276 NATIVES FIGHTING. spears that were thrown almost struck the shields of those with whom I was sitting. About thirty yards beyond the combatants, who, in close fight, were yelling, struggling, and falling, another line, consisting chiefly of my Hy Soumaulee escort, sat with their shields before them, in the same quiet spectator-like fashion as ourselves. I must observe, however, that Adam Burrah and Moosa, as soon as they saw me in the line with the Tajourah people, came from the opposite side, and sat close in front of me. Ohmed Medina told me not to fire, or take any part in the business except to take care of myself, as the quarrel was a private one, and that no one would attack us, if we did not commence hostilities. To make more secure against an accident, Ebin Izaak kept his hand on my right arm all the time, to prevent me taking up either of my guns that lay upon the ground on each side of me. During the fight I noticed, that occasionally one of the Kafilah men would spring up from his sitting posture, and with a loud shout run towards the combatants. He was invariably answered by one of the Hy Soumaulee opposite, who rushed to meet him; so that in a short time, more than double the number of the original fighters were engaged. The contest which was now taking place in my sight was an actual representation, on a small scale, of the mode of fighting practised by the PROGRESS OF A FIGHT. yi a Dankalli tribes. When two hostile bodies of these people meet, it is not usual for the whole to engage, but sitting down in two opposite lines at the distance of sixty or eighty yards from each other, they await the result, produced by the yelling, jumping, and speechifying of their leaders, who for this purpose stand up immediately in front of their men. At the intended attack upon our Kafilah at Wadalissan, by the Bursane Bedouins, Garahmee, in addition to his duty of keeping the people squatting upon their heels, evidently recited some martial song, or speech, which at intervals, was responded to with loud yells, and shaking of the spears in the direction of the enemy. A few becoming sufficiently excited by these means, they rush from either side into the inter- vening space. ‘The combat then commences, by each of these singling out his opponent and squat- ting opposite to him, in their usual attitude, at the distance of a few yards. Balancing their spears in a threatening manner, they spar at each other for several minutes, until one conceives he has a favourable opportunity of launching his spear, when, springing to his feet, he darts it with great force and precision. Seldom, however, any injury is thus produced, for his wary antagonist, with his shield, dashes it aside, and then endeavours to break by jumping and stamping upon it, as it lies upon the ground. He, in his turn, threatens 278 MANNER OF FIGHTING. with his weapon, his spearless opponent, who, bounding from side to side, in a stooping posture, endeavours to cover with his shield his whole body, save the head, and thus gives no steady object for the aim of the coming missile. At length, the spear being thrown, probably with the same harmless effect, both snatch their knives from their girdle, and rush with great impetuosity upon each other, throwing their shields to the ground to admit of their grappling with their left hands, whilst with the right they strike swift and heavy blows at the neck and into the left side. A few moments decide the murderous conflict, and the loud shout of the victor, as he pushes from his front the heavy corpse of the slain, proclaims his success in the gladiatorial combat. : During the fight, continual shouts of encourage- ment, or of derision, are raised by the non- combatants, who are waiting only the stimulus of revenge, on seeing a friend or leader killed, or to be prompted by the desire to assist some wounded companion, when they then rush into the conflict, from their previous couchant position, in the rear. No sooner, however, does any one spring forward for this purpose, than he is met by some brave of the opposite side, who runs to encounter him. Some- times two or three, or even more, hasten for the same purpose; but corresponding opponents leap forward to engage hand to hand in a suc- cession of duels, with those who shew this - SEPARATION OF THE COMBATANTS. 279 anxiety to mingle in the fray. In this manner the excitement spreads, pair after pair enter the ensanguined lists, and new comers continue to lengthen out the contest, until one side exhausts its warriors, and the weak and cowardly of that party alone are sitting in the rear. The victors now joined by their reserve friends rush forward to attack these, and kill whoever resists, while the rest, throwing aside their spears and shields, fly for their lives. Thus terminates a sanguinary affair, for of the number of warriors actually engaged, one half, on the side of the defeated party, must be slain; sometimes, with very little loss on the part of the victors. To return to the little battle in our front, I soon observed, that part of the latter comers up, instead of joining in the fight, were throwing their twisted tobes across the arms of the combatants, and dragging them, one by one, out of the mélée, some being thrown violently to the ground, in the efforts made by their friends to separate them. In a few minutes afterwards, four men burst from the crowd, threw away their shields, their spears had been broken previously, and ran at the top of their speed, in a direction towards the south. No one followed after to molest them, or to prevent their retreat, and the remaining combatants, who were able to walk, returned to their respective sides, where they fell into line as before. No attention, at the time, being paid to the deep gashes, and 280 CAUSE OF QUARREL. bleeding wounds, every one of them exhibited on some part of their bodies. The cause of the quarrel had been the attempt of one of the Wahamas, who had retired with two of our Kafilah men to some little distance from the camp, to appropriate to himself the shield of the old man, when the son of the latter had returned on some errand to the camp. ‘The old man, however, still retained somewhat of the spirit of youth, and after a vain struggle to retain possession of the shield, suddenly let it go, but seizing a spear, hurled it at the thief, just as he was making off with his prize. It was fortunate for him that the weapon was thrown with the trembling hand of age; for as it was, it inflicted a severe wound a little below the hip, and hung trailing a moment or two before it fell out. The man thinking himself more grievously hurt than he was, dropt the shield, and began calling out ‘‘ Wahama, Wahama,” rushing at the same time with his drawn knife upon the old man. ‘The son of the latter, who had returned on the first alarm, ran to the rescue of his father, whilst the Wahama people hastened to the assistance of their friend. A number of the Kafilah people, Hy Soumaulee and half-bloods, now mingled in the fray, whilst those who knew nothing of either party, or were not relations, took no part beyond looking after their own safety. My escort, not knowing how the affair would terminate, sat prepared for any emer- COMPENSATION. 281 gency on one side, whilst the Kafilah people formed another semi-circular line opposite. It was evident, however, that both the Hy Soumaulee and the Tajourah people were afraid of the consequences that might arise from any of the Wahama nego- tiators being killed; and at length, after a message from Ohmed Mahomed, in which he promised a tobe to the Chief of the Hy Soumaulee, and some blue sood to his men, several of them laid aside their arms, and with their twisted tobes managed, by main force, to drag asunder the contending parties, and in this manner restored peace. Settling this affair was a very serious business. Two of the Wahamas were severely wounded, Himyah had got the muscles of the upper arm transfixed by a spear, and numbers of others had received sundry cuts, stabs, and scratches. ‘Then there were broken spears, lost knives, torn tobes, and injured shields, for all of which. compensation was claimed. I was desired to go to the assistance of the Wahama by some of their friends, but both Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed insisted on my not moving until the peace assembly had been con- vened. Some design was evidently intended against my person by the determined “ Cutta ’ with which Moosa and Adam Burrah sent away the friends of the wounded men, and who would not have done so had they not suspected something unfair. Heaven only knows what those intentions were; 282 PEACE ESTABLISHED. but as the Wahamas desired nothing so much as to see the Tajourah people foiled in any attempt to take up an English Kafilah to Shoa, and which they asserted could be only done by their own country- man Mahomed Allee, I dare say they would have attempted to assassinate me, to contribute so much to the discomfiture of their hated rivals. Even the half-bloods, who formed part of our own Kafilah, always disliked to converse, on the subject of the transmission of stores, through the country of Adal. Some preference and especial marks of favour bestowed upon Mahomed Allee by the Embassy and Salie Selasse, King of Shoa, seemed, in their minds, to have constituted a right of monopoly, as regarded this business, in his favour and that of his tribe. Nature’s last daily care, the star-spangled curtain of night, was drawn around her tumultuous children, and we all retired from the scene of strife; my injured hand paining me much less than I could have antici- pated. Ohmed Medina, Ebin Izaak, and fifteen or sixteen others, were now engaged in chanting a noisy zeker, whilst Ohmed Mahomed, supported by Moosa, sat in a large calahm of the Kafilah men and Hy Soumaulee until long after midnight, arranging the offerings or presents intended to be given as com- pensation to the injured in the late conflict. The two dying Wahamas were lively enough upon this subject, and although they could not join in the discussion, insisted on being placed on two mats in COST OF ENTERTAINMENT. 283 the centre of the circle, instead of being carried, as was proposed, to Herhowlee. Their case was first discussed, and after a deal of arguing, five dollars’ worth of blue sood and a tobe each, was received by them as satisfaction for their wounds, they undertaking also to accompany us through their own country, on purpose to obviate the effects of the evil reports it was expected their friends, who ran away from the conflict, would spread. A drawback from one of these wounded men was one dollar’s worth of sood, paid to Himyah for the wound in his arm. ‘The old man on whose account the quarrel commenced had to pay for two spears and to receive one, in lieu of which he consented to take one of the shields that had been thrown away by the fugitives. In this manner all injured articles, every deep cut or smallest bruise, was fairly balanced according to their ideas of the market value of such commodities, against every kind of merchandise, from a cow or sheep down to a handful of tobacco. Long before this business was concluded, Zaido, who, in addition to his other duties, was cashier to Ohmed Mahomed, had come to a conclusion that our halt at Barradudah would be a very expensive one. Already he had manufactured into the cur- rency of the country one entire piece of blue calico, and still fresh comers, demanding their com- pensation, kept him measuring cubits with his fore arm, and then tearing each half dollar’s worth 284 BARRADUDDA. away, with a wrench that seemed every time to dislocate his heart. It was too dark to observe the expression of his countenance, but, no doubt, it was dolorous in the extreme; if I could judge from his sighs and often-repeated oaths, that ‘“‘ twenty times the value of all the good the camels had received by their halt had been paid by him to men, who’”—here he muttered some scandal, I suppose, for he did not think it expedient to whisper even to me, (he was sitting close under the side of my hut,) his real opinion of the Bedouins, who had occasioned all the tumult. Another trouble that disturbed his mind not a little, was the great probability of our being obliged to pay all over again in the Wahama country, the inhabitants of which, he was convinced, would be all up in arms, to resent the insult and injury committed by us upon their heralds. I fell asleep at last, tired out with the excitement and noise, nor did I awake the next morning, until roused by Zaido and the two Allees walking away with the boxes of my hut, which were the only loads that had yet to be placed upon the backs of the camels. 285 CHAPTER XIX. Journey from Barradudda to Thermadullah, general direction south by west, time marching three hours and a half.—Quarrel with Ras ul Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.— April 29th. Staying at Thermadullah.—Camel saddles.—Stung by scorpion.—Cure.—Account of some neighbouring hot springs. April 28th.— We started from Barradudda by sunrise, travelling nearly due south for the first two hours, and south-west for the remainder of to-day’s journey. The road was all the way excellent, being over a dry hard clay covered with high coarse grass, which was alive with hares, floricans, and guinea-fowl. ‘To the north and east were long continuous lava plateaus, one portion of which formed the western boundary of Lake Abhibhad, and beyond which Owssa was said to be at the distance of twenty miles. In a wide fissure plain of this table-land, about fifteen miles to the westward of Abhibhad, another long and narrow lake, called Killaloo, terminated the river Wahahumbilla coming from the south, part of which, in the direction of the lake, was visible from some situations during our march this morning. 286 BEDOUIN FAMILY REMOVING I took the opportunity when I saw Ohmedu - and Ohmed Medina together, to ask the latter if he had crossed over any stream when he went to Owssa from Arabderah. As he replied that he had not, I recalled to Ohmedu’s recollection that, when at Gobard, he said the river Wahahumbilla went into the Hawash, just before this latter entered lake Abhibhad, but which could not be the case, for if so, Ohmed Medina must have observed it on the occasion of his late journey to Owssa. Ohmedu readily admitted that he might be wrong, and I have therefore represented in my map the river Wahahumbilla as terminating at Kullaloo, although it is probable that during very great floods that lake may overflow, and then commu- nicate with the river Hawash. After travelling nearly four hours we arrived at a tree-covered valley called Thermadullah, where we halted for the day. On our march I had an opportunity of. observing a family of Bedouins moving with all their property, houses included, towards Killaloo in search of water. Seven camels were laden with mats and the bamboo frames of the native wigwams. ‘The roof canes belonging to these rose, on each side of the animals, with a long tapering curve behind, and high above them into the air. ‘The imagination easily furnished these with some light gossamer structure, and in this manner suggested to itself a new poetical flying-machine, vieing with the Pegasus of mytho- “IN SEARCH OF WATER. 287 logical fable. Besides the hut, each camel bore a considerable amount of household furniture. Black earthenware pots, contained in a kind of cage protectors made of some flexible shrub; the family store of palm-leaves for the industrious housewife to weave into mats, or to make the native rope; a few handsome-looking baskets hung round with shells suspended from thongs; and a child or two placed amidst the whole, or perched upon the top; sometimes holding in its arms a noisy bleating kid or lamb that was too young to walk with its dam. Some older children, boys and girls, quite naked, assisted their mothers in driving before them the flocks of sheep and goats. No men accompanied this party, but their absence was accounted for, by their being engaged in tending a herd of some thousands of oxen, whose dusty track I observed like a low red cloud some miles in extent, about a league to the west of us. We had ourselves three cows and several sheep and goats, the returns of some little trading with the people of Herhowlee, who having bought from different persons in the Kafilah a small quantity of tobacco, and a few cubits of blue sood, had paid in kind for their purchases. When Ohmed Mahomed engaged the Hy Sou- maulee escort, he did not tell me that part of the agreement was that they should have a bullock, or its equivalent in sheep or goats, every second day. ‘This I learnt from the men themselves, 288 ANOTHER QUARREL. who to-day came annoying me a great deal for the performance of this part of the stipulation. On applying to Ohmed Mahomed for an explanation, he said that they were justified in claiming it, not from any promise he had made, but because the men of the additional escort, the British Embassy had been necessitated to engage on the road, always received a bullock to regale themselves with every other day. He was exceedingly impertinent in reply to my observation that I had no authority to incur such an additional expense, and which might probably be considered to have been incurred unnecessarily on our arrival in Shoa. He turned upon his heel, saying, loud enough to be heard | by the Hy Soumaulee, that I must pay for the bullocks, and was a fool to raise a question about such a trifle, and that where I spent one dollar the Embassy had expended one hundred ; concluding, as he retired beneath his shielding of mats, ‘‘ Go away, go away, give the dollars, if the English want the road the English must pay for it.” It was no use quarrelling with him, to do which I felt exceedingly inclined, and it would have been some satisfaction, to have discharged the shot of one barrel of my carbine, into the bare posteriors of this black rascal, exposed as he was whilst creeping into his retreat. My situation however did not admit of such a display of feeling, and I retired to my hut to consider upon some plan to prevent the extortion, which, WITH OHMED MAHOMED. 289 under colour of payment for these cattle, I con- sidered at the time was being levied, to make up for the heavy expenditure incurred, by the consequences of the quarrel of yesterday. I never doubted but that his comparison, between my expenses and those of the Embassy, was like his usual statements, founded upon untruth. I was determined, therefore, not to be imposed upon by Ohmed Mahomed, without letting him know that in the end, he would be a much greater loser by his present system of extorting a few dollars from me, by my withholding all commendation for care and attention upon our arrival in Shoa. Accordingly, towards evening, when the men came again demanding the bullock, I accompanied them to the hut of Ohmed Mahomed, and asked him, as if I had consented to their demand, what was the price of the animal. As I expected, he asked a most unrea- sonable sum, no less than nine dollars, two being the fair market price. I told him in reply, very quietly, that he was no friend to the English, and that I should consider him, therefore, no longer my Ras ul Kafilah, but that for the future Ebin Izaak alone should transact all business with me; I also gave him to understand that I should represent to the proper quarter the treatment I had received, which would occasion a considerable diminution in the amount of boxeish, or present, he would receive in Shoa. On hearing this, he got immediately into a dreadful rage, stormed away, and pushed by me out ¥OL. ‘I. U 290 PEACE CALAHM. of the hut, as if bent ‘‘ on purpose dire ;” but hearing, as I also jumped to my feet, the repeated warning click of both locks of my carbine, he replaced his seized spear against the heap of salt-bags, loudly complaining in his own language to Ohmed Medina and a crowd of the Kafilah people, who, hearing words running very high, had come, all armed, to hear what could be the matter. They kept at a very respectful distance from me, some of them calling out they were my friends, for two or three of the boldest had at first threatened me both by shouting and shaking their spears; but, having taken on the first alarm a good position among the camels, I managed to enact a sufficiently bold bearing to deter them from a nearer approach, although my hopes just at that moment were most recreant indeed. After a little consultation, seeing I would not leave my camel-battery to come to them, Ohmed Medina and Ebin Izaak left the crowd, and walking some distance on one side, squatted down as they do in a calahm, beckoning me to go to them. As these two were men, of whose friendly intentions I could have no doubt, I joined them immediately, and we sat talking and explaining matters for nearly an hour, when it was arranged, that peace between Ohmed Mahomed and myself should be made in the usual manner, and that we must both be good friends. For this purpose Ebin Izaak brought Ohmed Mahomed into the little circle, the Fahtah, or opening’ chapter of the Koran, was recited, and PURCHASE OF BULLOCKS. 291 shaking hands, we each repeated “ Y’Allah abbi!” (God bless you!) and thus ended very satisfactorily, an affair, which at one time had rather a serious aspect. We now entered upon the subject of providing food for the Hy Soumaulee. I complained of the exorbitant price asked for the bullocks, and pro- posed that I should give three dollars each, for those that would be- required. Ohmed Medina said, it was enough; so that business was also settled. A laughing proposal was then made, to tie Ohmed Mahomed, during the night, but I replied, that I had nothing to fear from him after the Fahtah had been read, and with this compli- ment to the sacred character of their oath, I got up, and retired to my hut. In a very short time, my escort had slaughtered and flayed the bullock; and, in expectation of a hearty meal, were quite happy. One half of them lay in a line upon the ground, at the back of my hut, whilst the remainder were busily employed, boiling the meat, at numerous little wood fires, which occupied shallow holes, scraped with their fingers, in the soil. ‘Three stones, around each of these, supported large earthenware pots; and the bubbling contents, and the sharp crackling fuel told, that things were going on as satisfactorily as possible. Some of the cooks, sitting on their heels, were amusing themselves, during the process of the boiling, by picking the bones, from which the meat in the pots had been cut. Their long vu 2 292 A NATIVE CHANT. knives, held close on one side the face, as, with both hands, the bone was held most lovingly to the mouth, glistened frequently in the blaze of the fires, when, with sudden snatches, they detached with their teeth, the raw remnants of flesh that still remained. Somewhat amused with the scene, I took a stroll among the cooking fires, and the recumbent escort; as 1 came near one of them, he, without raising his head from the wooden pillow on which it rested, reached his arm out, and rolling a stone nearer to him, patted it with his hand, and calling out, ‘‘ Ahkeem,” very politely invited me to take a seat by his side. Here our conversation stopt; for, besides ‘‘ How do you,” I did not understand a word scarcely of their language. However, my presence was the signal for a song; Carmel Ibrahim, my present entertainer, and chief man of the Hy Soumaulee escort, commencing. An improvisatored chant, of which, of course, I was the subject, was sung in alternate stanzas by a noisy chorus, who followed Carmel’s dictation, something like a country congregation, when, from the scarcity of books, the clerk, to accom- modate them, gives out two lines of the hymn ata time. I awaited, very patiently, the termina- tion of the song, which only ended when supper was reported ready; music that moment lost its charm, and the savage, good-humoured choristers bounded to their feet, and thronged around the WOUND QUITE CURED. 293 respective fires. ‘The meat was taken out of the seething pots, and placed in the dirty tobe of one of the party upon the ground, and every one then helped himself. The supply of provisions being plentiful, they had no fear that their appetites would not be satisfied, so the best feeling prevailed amongst the party, each taking what he thought sufficient for himself, and the greatest unanimity, as to eating as much as ever they possibly could, characterized the entertainment. Zaido, in an agony of mind at not finding me in the hut, now came shouting in the dark for me, and on relieving his anxious fears about my safety by reporting myself present, he quickly placed before me a bowl heaped up with pieces of meat, placed upon a quantity of boiled wheat, soaking in ghee. I made haste to do justice to his care ; and in a short time afterwards, he and the two Allees were finishing what remained. Before I close the account of this day, I must observe, that the burn in the palm of my hand troubled me very little indeed; the thick compact skin having only been superficially scorched, and the slight inflammation it excited, having quickly subsided, I felt but little inconvenience from the wound. April 29th.—No start this morning, two camels being very ill, according to Ohmed Mahomed’s account, who asserted they would not be able to proceed until the next day. Another name for 294 DESCRIPTION OF THE our halting-place was Alee-bakalee. In a retired spot, surrounded by trees, I found a large sheet of water, which, according to all accounts I received, is to be found here during the whole year. Returning after a very refreshing bathe, I gathered a quantity of the Indian vegetable, and as all my rice and biscuit were expended, this addition to my present meat diet was very agreeable. Here I also shot a large adjutant bird, exactly similar to those I have seen in Calcutta. In the afternoon, I employed myself repairing the shattered boxes, which had not proved equal to the continual knocking about they were exposed to, and to which the numerous loadings and unloadings of the camels during the long march, contributed nota little. Small barrels, with shut-up tops, would be best adapted for the packing of stores so conveyed, and would suit much better the ingenious, but simple camel-saddle used by the Dankall. This saddle consists of four strong staves, about four feet in length, and as thick as a man’s wrist. Two of these are intended for each side of the camel. At the distance of one-third from the upper end are fixed small round pads of matting, stuffed with strips of the palm leaf. ‘These rest on the sides of the hump, and relieve this rather tender part from the pressure of the load. The lower ends of the two staves on each side, are bound together, but the upper extremities, above the pads, diverge to the distance of a foot or DANKALLI CAMEL SADDLE. 295 eighteen inches; the staves of either side are con- nected together by ropes carried over the pads. A quantity of palm-leaf mats, six feet long, and three feet broad, are first placed upon the back of the camel, and across these is thrown the saddle. ‘The two conjoined ends on either side are now fastened underneath the belly, by a rope passing directly from the one to the other, in a straight line. No girding, similar to the manner in which we saddle horses is resorted to. The saddle being thus fixed, from the projecting extremities of the staves, on one side is suspended the burden that hangs upon the other, and thus, when properly adjusted, the weight of the two burdens tends to tighten the rope beneath the belly of the animal, and prevents the whole from shifting during the journey. Another advantage derived from this kind of saddle is, that when the camel lies down, the whole weight of the burden is lifted up from the back, for the lower ex- tremities of the staves come upon the ground before the belly of the animal, and thus support the loads, whilst it remains in that position. If proper atten- tion be paid to the equal distribution of weight on each side, when first loaded, the camel marches the whole day without any danger of casting its burden, unless the rope should happen to break, which con- nects the lower ends of the staves of either side. ‘Too frequently, the slaves of the owner neglect this important duty, and I have observed with what difficulty, the narrow body of the camel has been 296 HEMPEN ROPES EMPLOYED. able to contend, against the unequal pressure upon its sides. In such cases, if attention be not paid to its loud moanings, and the restless movements of its head, when vainly endeavouring to lift off the load from its back, the animal soon falls to the ground, unwilling or unable to proceed farther, without a readjustment of the loads. The numerous ropes required in loading camels with the long narrow salt-bags, are generally made of two plies of the thin portion of the doom palm leaf, twisted in contrary directions with the hands, and then allowed to twine naturally upon each other. Hempen ropes are preferred, when they can be obtained; and several specimens were shown to me; that had been manufactured by some Galla people to the south of the Hawash, in the neigh- bourhood of Shoa. I continued nailing the boxes, teaching Zaido the use of a hammer and a nail-passer, when attempting to lift over one of the packages, I placed my hand under its lower edge, and was suddenly made aware, by a severe sting in the ball of my thumb, that some reptile had located itself beneath. In an agony of anxious curiosity, I pushed over the box, and then exposed to view a large scorpion, at least an inch and a half in diameter. ‘The pain for the moment was intense, shooting rapidly along my arm into the shoulder and neck, and as I had been taught to believe, that the most serious conse- quences would arise from a wound of such a descrip- STUNG BY A SCORPION. 297 tion, I looked at it very seriously for a few moments, with all the contentment of despair; the loss of all hope had made me more tranquil than in my moral philosophy I had ever conceived would have been the case. The pain, however, like sharp rheumatic touches, soon called me back to reasonable expres- sion, and excessive suffering made me stamp again, causing Zaido and the others to laugh immoderately. They made chase, however, after the reptile, which was hastily running off, with his tail curved high over his back, and sting displayed, in a high state of irritation, no doubt. It was very soon stopped by one of the Allees dropping, after several attempts, the butt-end of his spear upon it, and holding it down till Zaido, with the nail-passer, had amputated the last joint of the tail, which supported the sting. He then took the animal up, tore it ruthlessly into two pieces, and began to rub the wound in my hand, with the ichorous-looking juice which, instead of blood, appears to circulate through the animal. I was also comforted in my mind by assurances that all would be well in an hour, for the knife, as my friends called the sting, was a very small one. I learnt from this occurrence, that the Dankalli do not consider the sting of the scorpion of their country dangerous, and it is-well that it is not so, for they are found in any quantity underneath every large stone. Sometimes on rolling one over, in the shallow depression of the ground, I have noticed the entrance to a_nest. of these nauseous-looking 298 RESIDENCE OF JINN. reptiles; and on removing a little of the soil, perhaps I+should unearth an old one as large as a crown- piece, semi-transparent, of a dirty, mottled yellow colour, with about ten or a dozen young ones, like so many huge spiders, running about in all direc- tions, as if fully aware of their situation, and that no endeavours would be spared to destroy the whole family party. As it is useful to observe coincidental ideas upon | subjects somewhat related, which are entertained by very different and distinct nations, I may be allowed to remark the resemblance between the remedy on this occasion, and which was quite sufficient for the cure, and that which is adopted by the lower orders in Scotland at the present time, to counteract the effects of the bite of a viper. It is usual among them to kill and flay the reptile, and the moist inner surface of the skin is then well rubbed over the wound, as were the separated portions of the scorpion in my case by the Dankalli. The pain in my hand not subsiding immediately, I thought it prudent to retreat into my hut, bidding Zaido to bring my gun, hammer, nails, &c. Ohmed Medina came to amuse me, and told some long tales of the numerous Jinn that haunted the country, which, however, must be understood to mean the volcanic phenomena, which are con- tinually altering the surface level of the country of Adal. A very famous residence of a large com- munity of these Jinn, Ohmed Medina stated to be HOT SPRINGS OF TA’HOU. 299 about two days’ journey towards the north-east, before we came to the river Hawash in that direction. ‘The name of the place was Ta’hou, and the caravan route, from Owssa to Gondah, passed close to the neighbourhood of this evil spot, the principal features of which, I was given to under- stand, were, several boiling springs, a few yards distance from each other, that threw up columns of hot water and vapour, several feet high. Around the borders of these steam fountains a large quantity of a very white stone is found. From this circumstance, I inferred, that they were of the same character as the geysers of Iceland, depositing, like them, a thick bed of silex around their apertures. Ohmed Medina left me, to perform the usual vesper adorations before and after sunset. By the time he had finished, and returned to ask how the wound in my hand felt, I had almost forgotten the circumstance, for the pain had subsided, and the sting had left no trace of a wound. When I retired to rest, the remainder of the bullock left uncooked the evening before, was being prepared by my hungry escort. The Dankalli, as far as I could observe, make but one regular meal a day, and that after sunset. They eat, certainly, at any other time, when anything is put before them, but this is very irregular, and considered only as an extraordinary indulgence. 300 CHAPTER XX. Journey from Thermaduddah to Alee-bakalee, general direction, south by west, time marching, one hour.—May lst, Journey from Alee-bakalee to Hasanderah, general direction, south-west, time marching, eight hours.—Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of cattle. Architectural labours.—Mahomedan popular super- stitions.—Sale of children.—A Bedouin father. April 30th. We left 'Thermaduddah this morning by sunrise, making a short march to the south- ward, across a narrow plain covered with grass, and bordered by low banks of a stony character, but, upon which, the myrrh, the mimosa, and aditu trees, grew to a respectable size. ‘The name of our haiting-place for the day was Alee-bakalee, which appeared to be the name of a stream that occasionally, at the time of the rains, flows to the northward into the Killaloo Lake; and the repre- sentative of which, at this time, was the water I bathed in yesterday, and which, I now recollected, was called by the same name. For a little paper distributed to those I employed, I soon had a small party of market-gardeners collecting the “ Hashish,” the Arab name for the green food of cattle (and which, the Bedouins of the HARES, UNCLEAN ANIMALS. 301 Kafilah had applied to my Indian vegetable Bargee),* here found in great plenty. Several shields-full were quickly laid in my plaid before me, and taking as much as I required for myself, I bestowed the remainder upon my mule. She seemed as highly pleased with the treat as myself, and eat away, as if her family physician had recom- mended it as a preventive for the scurvy, which her present idle life seemed to predispose her to. The day was rather poor in incident. I[ lay in my hut reflecting upon the probabilities of my reaching Shoa alive; and projecting, in case I did, very extensive journeys into the interior from that kingdom, as a starting-place. In the evening, I and the two Allees, went after some guinea fowl, but only shot one, and ahare. ‘The latter, I found, was useless, for a somewhat similar objection is entertained by Mahomedans to this animal, as among the Jews, by whom it is considered to be unclean. After I had lain down to sleep, a large calahm was held, in which, the escort and the Kafilah men all joined. ‘Two sheep had then to be killed for the escort; so that it was nearly midnight, before their day’s meal was prepared for them. The calahm had some reference to the two Wahamas, who were wounded at Barradudda, and who, after the agreement to accompany us, were found unable to do so, and had been taken back to Herhowlee. The * A kind of spinage. 302 DESIRE TO PROCEED. question discussed was, whether we should remain until they were well enough to join us, or go on at once, and take our chance, with respect to the resentment of their tribe. I was not sorry that it was determined to proceed; and from that day I became of considerable consequence, for my presence with fire-arms had principally induced the chief men of the Kafilah to consent to the impa- tient onward move of the Hy Soumaulee, who, having no property to lose, had no objection to accelerate the crisis; suspense, to them, being a most intolerable bore. ‘They soon found out that I shared the same feeling with them, for I was getting heartily tired, of my sojourn in the wilderness ; and the poetical sentiment, | “Oh! that the desert was my dwelling-place,”’ now found no echo in the wishes, or desires, of my heart. Frequently did they solicit Ohmed Medina to start off with me, and accompanied by them, leave the Kafilah to come on afterwards, however it could; and, for fear I might be influenced by such requests, Ohmed Mahomed became as polite as possible; and found (quite by accident, of course, but very much to my delight) a large goat-skin bag full of rice, which he very gravely asserted had not formed any part of my own store, but was some of his friend Himyah’s, who was taking it up as a present to the frontier governor of Efat, the Wallasma Mahomed, but, at his SUSPICIOUS CAUTION. 303 request, Himyah had given it to him, for me. This was brought to me at night, to avoid observation ; and, although, I thought it to be in this case, quite unnecessary, the same caution was exhibited, as on all other occasions of sale, or of making presents. So as not to excite the cupidity of the Bedouins, nothing like the delivery of any property occurs during the day. Among these wily and suspicious people, every thing of that kind changes hands, under the convenient cover of the darkness of night. May 1st.— At sunrise, we were up and off; and if I complained, yesterday, of the short march, to-day, had I not felt more pleased, than other- wise, with the progress we made, I might with equal reason, have objected to the length of our journey, being eight hours travelling, and all the way on foot. ‘The road was very good, with but few inequalities of surface, as we continued following the dry watercourse of Alee-bakalee, which appeared to contract as we advanced. The appearance of the country that we passed through was, as might be expected, very uniform, the whole way; a beautiful long valley, extending in a general direction, from the south-west towards the north-east. A rich alluvial soil was thinly strewn with a few dark coloured fragments of the lava ridges which formed the boundaries towards the east and west. Grass was very plentiful; and the trees so thick, as in some parts, to assume the appearance of a wood. Enormous ant-hills 304 DANKALLI NATURALISTS. showed their red tops between the summits of the low trees, and numerous herds of several different kinds of antelope were feeding all around. At length, the lava ridges on either side seemed to approach each other, and we reached a confined valley, through which flowed a narrow stream, winding among thick clumps of very high trees. Birds of the most brilliant plumage, and gorgeously tinted butterflies, made the road one continued cabinet gallery of all that is rare and beautiful, in the colours which are most admired, in these painted favourites of nature. Some Dankalli naturalists, who wanted a few red tail feathers to ornament their greasy locks, made a requisition for me to supply them, pointing to my eun, and then to the birds ; but I would not under- stand them in any other way than my own, and so nodding very good humouredly, I told them to remain where they were; and going a few yards from the road, fired into a busy-pecking crowd of guinea-fowl, bringing back with me a brace of very fine ones; birds, however, which, to the great disappointment of my Dankalli fashionable friends, were found to have scarcely any more tail feathers than they had themselves. We should have halted two hours before we did, at the very commencement of the valley of Hasanderah Kabeeh, as the little stream was called, but that we there found it filled with an immense herd of cattle, through which we marched, WOMEN MAKING GHEE, 305 as if in a long-extended Smithfield market, for at least five miles. I had not imagined such vast herds to have been in the possession of the Dankalli Bedouins. ‘The number of men required to attend them was very great, and afforded me an explanation, why I had met with so few upon the journey; their chief employment being to protect their cattle, with whom they constantly remain. ‘The elders only indulge in the domestic comforts found in the kraal, and are supported chiefly by the produce of the flocks of sheep and goats, which during the day are placed under the care of the children. The young men and women follow the herds ; the former lie idly under the trees during the heat of the day, whilst the latter perform the duties of milking and of making the ghee or fluid butter. Churning is performed by the milk being placed in large skin bags, suspended upon the hips by a leathern thong passed over the shoulders and across the breasts. A quick semi-rotary movement of the trunk continually agitates the contents, until the butter is formed in soft white lumps; it is then taken out with the hand as it collects upon the surface of the milk, and is placed into lesser skins, where in a few hours it assumes the appear- ance of a light yellow oily fluid, the ghee of the Berberah market, from whence it is exported in ereat quantities to India and the Persian Gulf. The cattle of Adal are nearly all of one colour, VOL. I. xX 306 HASANDERAH KABEER. a kind of brindled iron grey, with moderately sized horns, curving first outwards, then forwards, and upwards. Our Kafilah having reached the farther extremity of Hasanderah Kabeer, we found a clear open spot where grass and water were equally abundant as along the whole line of our march to-day. ‘Trees of greater altitude, and with a thicker shade than any I had seen before, invited us to that rest which we all needed, after our long march of nearly twenty miles. Our pedestrian party had outstripped the camels above two hours, and were nearly all asleep, when the leading files of these gaunt, sober stepping animals, paced their serpentine course among the thick bushes of wild cotton, and of a tree, that reminded me exceedingly of our hazel, by its foliage and general character. The camels were not so fatigued as I expected they would be, but the late halts and short marches, in a country so abounding with vegetation, had enabled them to recruit their strength, almost worn out by the hardships and their scanty food, during the journey through the wilderness of stones between Tajourah and Herhowlee. ‘They were glad enough, however, I dare say, on their arrival at Hasanderah ; for, too impatient to wait for farther attendance, after the loads and saddles were removed, these sagacious animals soon swept off, with their nose and cheek, the numerous chafing mats which are placed below the saddle to prevent CONSTRUCT MY OWN HUT. 307 abrasions and ulcers on the hump, to which they are very liable. One good effect was produced by a long march ; that was the freedom from importunity I enjoyed, for all the Bedouins and Kafilah men seemed determined to take, immediate advantage of the shady accommodations of this ‘hotel verte,” or in plain English, this extensive “bushinn.” I obliged myself, tired as I was, to build my own hut rather than seek a bower, where others would throng, ereatly to my discomfort ; and something of a con- science told me that Zaido and the Allees, after unloading the two-and-twenty camels belonging to their master, Ohmed Mahomed, would require rest as well as myself. My architectural occupation attracted the attention of the chief of the escort, Carmel Ibrahim, and he, very good-naturedly, came to assist me, so that by our joint labours, and his excellent suggestions, a box-house was constructed, the most convenient I had yet occupied, for the boxes, on previous occasions placed close together, were now arranged with spaces between, that admitted both hght and air. At sunset, when the camels were to be brought in for the night, Ohmed Medina and a party, principally of Tajourah people, came to get some coffee with me, which was quickly prepared by Zaido; who, on a little fire made of camel-dung and dried sticks, had soon the long-necked vase of coarse red earthenware, in which the social inspiring x, 2 308 ATTEMPT AT CONVERSION. berry was boiled. The only cup we had was fairly circulated, whilst another discussion upon religion was entered upon, nearly of the same character as our previous one. The party had come with the intention of convert- ing me, but they were all disappointed, for I proved that my religion was founded upon truth, and that they themselves believed every principle of faith I did. My reason for not going so far as they did, as to receive the Koran as the Word of God, was because my book, the New Testament, did not testify to the truth of Mahomed’s mission, as their’s did to that of Jesus. This plea, however, was met by a curious tirade against Poulos (St. Paul), the only one of the apostles that the Mahomedans appear to have any knowledge of, and him they charge with having falsified the Gospels, by striking out the name of Mahomed wherever it appeared. I have since learned, that all the foundation they have for this accusation is the circumstance of one of the forms of the name Mahomed, “‘ Ohmed”’ having the same signification in Arabic as the Greek word mapaxrntos, Comforter, one of the designations of the Holy Ghost, and the coming of which was cer- tainly promised by Christ. A long afternoon was occupied discussing this subject, and during the conversation, my Islam friends exhibited the greatest politeness, never interrupting me as I stammered away in bad Arabic, until some one of them, comprehending my DANKALLI TOLERANCE. 309 meaning, immediately interpreted it more fully to the rest ; and as I understood a good deal more than I could speak, I was always able to know whether they had caught my idea or not. Neither proud intolerance, or obstinate bigotry, occasioned one hasty or disparaging expression. All sat in their usual silent manner whilst another spoke, squatting upon their heels, which, in order to be more com- fortable, as it was a lengthy debate, were raised a little by two small stones, placed for that purpose beneath them. ‘The same courtesy marked all the friendly conversations I had with them. During this morning’s march, Ohmed Medina, in a joking manner, said, that the English were not a nation of men like themselves, but a nation of women, because they allowed themselves to be governed by a Queen. I retorted by saying, that the fact was, ‘‘ that the English women were as strong as the Dankalli men.’ A remark which Ohmed Medina imme- diately translated into their language, much to the amusement of the Hy Soumaulee around, who did not seem in the least annoyed by the freedom of the comparison. May 2d.—A slight shower fell, not sufficient to come through the roof of my hut, but it rendered the ground so muddy that we were obliged to remain where we were for this day. Another large herd of cattle had passed us during the night, going to Killaloo, and their footmarks contributed in a great measure to the bad condition of the ground. Several 310 A BEDOUIN FATHER. of the women belonging to the herd had staid behind, and brought into our camp some skins of milk for sale, receiving tobacco in exchange. An old man also arrived early in the morning, having travelled all night, hearing that we were in the neighbour- hood, to obtain some information respecting his two daughters, who, six months before, had gone with a Kafilah down to Tajourah. Not hearing anything to his satisfaction from my companions, he came to me, dragging with him a kid, which he presented to me, begging that I would look into my book, and give him some account of his missing daughters. He had heard, he said, that they had been very ill, and he only desired to know if they were dead or had got better. The old man, savage as he was, did credit to our nature, from the anxiety and love he evinced for his offspring; and the sorrow he showed was an anomaly to me [ could not understand, for I had made up my mind, that the Dankalli could not be charged with any constitutional weakness, as regards the influence of domestic attachments or family ties; here was an evidence to the contrary, and I record it for the benefit of any one, who may be better able than myself, to reconcile such differences of character among these interesting people. Many of the Dankalli Bedouins do certainly sell their female children. Garahmee, as I have before observed, had thus disposed of three, and Moosa of two daughters, and on- more than one occasion I PRICE OF SLAVES. Shi had offered to me for sale, girls from ten to fourteen years old, at the price of about four or five dollars each. In merchandise, the value of a really hand- some slave girl, appears much more trifling than when paid for in hard dollars, as six or seven cubits of blue sood, worth about two shillings in England, - is a more than sufficient temptation to imduce even a mother to part with her child. ‘These bargains, I observed, were always transacted with the female relatives, but the returns, I was told, were generally handed over*to the fathers or brothers. The girls were frightened to death at the idea of being sold to me, but seemed happy enough to leave their desert homes in search of fortunes elsewhere, with masters of their own colour; and both parents and children, in these business transactions, supported themselves most stoically, although on the eve of being separated for ever. With respect to the old man’s daughters, Ohmed Mahomed, who acted as interpreter between us, practised a somewhat similar trick upon me as he did at Sagagahdah, when he passed Mahomed Murkee upon me for Mahomed Allee. Whilst I was in Tajourah, I was frequently called in to people who were sick, and, among others, to a number of young slave gitls belonging to Abu Bukeree, one of the chief men of the town. These children were suffering from an epidemic that took off a great number, and Ohmed Mahomed asserted that two of them were the children of the old man; 4 8 i AGAIN DECEIVED. and at the moment, forgetting his duplicity on the former occasion, I added my testimony to the fact of their illness and death, and the old man turned away in tears. After he was gone, and I was again alone, Zaido, in this triumph of the deceitful policy of his master, now came, and expecting me to express my approbation of the cleverness dis- played, told me that the girls were quite well, and perhaps sold at Mocha by that time. I now saw the little trick that Ohmed Mahomed had again practised upon me, and feeling exceedifgly annoyed at having been so impudently made the tool of an unprincipled slave-dealer, [ was almost inclined to go after Ohmed Mahomed, and, in despite of all consequences, tell him to his face he was a dis- honest man; but, on second thoughts, considered it would be a more prudent course, as I could not remedy the injury done, to let things remain as they were; especially, as the old man would probably be more contented with the idea of their death, than if he were made aware of the real truth of the matter. 313 CHAPTER XXTI. Purchase of some tobacco, with remarks on its use among the Dan- kalliitMake cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed Ma- homed.—May 3, Journey from Hasanderah to Bundurah.— General direction, S. W. by W.—Time marching seven hours. —Singular effect of refraction.—Joined by party of Issah Sou- maulee ; description of their appearance and arms.—A ffectionate inquiries of Kafilah friends.—Description of halting-place and country around Bundurah. SEVERAL applications for tobacco to-day determined me to purchase from Ohmed Medina three pounds, for which I gave only three dollars, the most rea- sonable price that was ever asked me, for any commodity I required during the journey. Over the presents intended for the road I had no command whatever, they having been placed in the charge of Ohmed Mahomed before we left Tajourah ; and he took such especial care of them that the three skin bags full of handkerchiefs, coloured cottons, and white calico cloth, were untouched when we arrived in Shoa. All the presents required, were supplied from a stock of blue cloth and tobes, he had purchased at Berberah, and which he took care to charge to the Com- 314 THE GENERAL USE mander in Shoa (the British Ambassador) at the price of three dollars each tobe, and of ten dollars the piece of blue sood, much to his great gain and emolument. At the same time, the cunning fellow expected at the end of our journey, to have given to him all the original and much more valuable presents, as a kind of perquisite belonging to his office as Ras ul Kafilah. Tobacco, in all its forms, is eagerly sought for by the Dankalli; their constant asking for it is one of the principal annoyances a traveller experi- ences in passing through Adal. A _ very little, however, sends the sturdy beggars away quite satisfied, and if it were not for the numbers of them, their moderate expectations would be a source of amusement, for a thimbleful is received with a ereat deal more thankfulness than a handful, which, if bestowed, they look at with a kind of feeling, that if you can afford to give so much, there is no harm done in asking you for a little more. The sort of tobacco I saw most general among these people was the dried leaf, unprepared in any other manner than by mere exposure to the sun after being gathered. ‘The Bedouins used it rudely crushed between the fingers, and well mixed up with an equal quantity of fine wood ashes. This rough powder is placed between the cheek and the lower jaw, where it forms a large lump, which is allowed to remain until all the bitter or active prin- ciple of the mass is extracted. It makes a most OF TOBACCO. 310 unsightly protuberance, just above and on one side of the chin, and occasions a continual ejection of saliva, which, as it is cast only upon the earth, is less objectionable than a similar indulgence when committed in the more civilized resorts of men, as, for example, in the drawing-rooms of the less fastidious of our Transatlantic brethren. The people of Tajourah manufacture this tobacco into snuff by first scorching the leaf, and then triturating it between two stones, something in the same manner as paint is ground in England. Some of the Dankalli tribes, among which are the Assobah, and Omah Battah’s family of the Sidee Abreu, are remarkable for their abstinence from the use of this intoxicating herb, an indulgence in which, by any individual belonging to either of these tribes would be followed by his assassination. These people may have derived this prejudice from some early connexion with the Christian Church of Abyssinia, one canon of which interdicts the use of tobacco among its communicants. I suspected also that it might have arisen from the exhortation of some of their more respected Sheiks, who had learnt the existence of a_ similar abstinence from tobacco, practised by the modern Islam sect termed Whaahbee. On inquiry, however, I found that the Dankalli had rejected its use long before the appearance of these Unitarians of South Arabia. I may observe that the Whaabhee found their objection to the use of tobacco, upon some 316 GREAT SNUFF-TAKERS. commandment contained in the Koran, that says ‘no property shall be consumed in fire,’ which they contend is the case when smoking is indulged in, and that consequently, it is a crime of scarcely less atrocity than downright arson. Tobacco in the form of snuff is used, however, by all the tribes, and I have myself seen the Chief of the Sidee Abreu snuffing greedily a large quantity up his nose whilst he was telling me, with a great deal of self-satisfaction, that the use of tobacco was a capital crime among his people. ‘This luxury is kept in a little bag, or pouch, made of two pieces of fine gut, stretched and dried in the sun, and then sewed together. What little snuff they can get possession of is carefully deposited in this; it is then folded up several times one way, and placed between the scabbard of their knife and the thongs that secure it to their girdle. ‘Surat,’ the name of snuff in the Dankalli language, indicates the place on the coast of India from whence was imported the first that came into Adal. I was much amused by a comparison memory suggested, between the Dankalli of the present day, and the beggars for tobacco in the south of Galloway, in Scotland, not one hundred years ago, where a traveller of that day relates of the inhabitants, “that they are for the most part great chewers of tobacco, and are so addicted to it that they will ask for a piece thereof from a stranger as he is riding on his way, and therefore let not a MAKING HAT COVER. oLt traveller want an ounce or two of roll tobacco in his pocket, and for an inch or two thereof he need not fear the want of a guide by day or night.” This relation so accords with the practices of the Dankalli Bedouins, that supposing freedom from any attack is assured by the protection of some powerful chief, all other services and attention required during a sojourn amongst them, may be commanded by following the recommendation of the worthy traveller in Galloway. During the day I managed to make a new covering for my hat, for in passing beneath and among the thorny mimosas, the old one had been torn to rags. Having to get out a shirt to cut up for the necessary material, such a collection of my escort and Kafilah men that gathered around my hut, I never saw, and snatching for the buttons, or begging for the remnants, they left me little more than barely sufficient for my purposes, and, in fact, I was obliged to purchase back, for a couple of needles, part of one of the sleeves, to finish my task in a creditable manner. Everything I required to perform this, my needles, my thread, the white tape binding, and the last shreds of the shirt, were distributed fairly among the admiring mob, before I could get therh away. Ohmed Medina, whilst at prayers this evening, without moving from the mat upon which he per- formed his prostrations, called me to bring my gun to have a pot shot at some guinea-fowl, that were 318 SCENE WITH OHMED MAHOMED. roosted for the night, in the branches of an aditu tree very near to the camp. Having only one barrel loaded with shot, the other containing a ball I sent the latter, first among the crowd of birds, not above twenty yards from me, and killed three, ‘ following it up by pouring in the shot, which brought down four more of the scared fugitives. All had their throats cut before they were quite dead, each bird having three or four assistant executioners to settle its business, although numbers rather delayed than accelerated the operation, which Ohmed Medina consecrated, by bawling out from his prayer-mat the necessary “Allah achbar!” ‘“* Allah achbar!” Ohmed Mahomed, who had become very civil the last day or two, visited my hut in the evening, and I had some conversation with him relative to our starting the next day, and sounded his intentions by remarking, that here was plenty of forage and excellent water. ‘Good, Good,” replied Ohmed, pointing to the camels; and then, with hands spread some distance from his stomach, intimated how well distended the animals seemed to be with food. I shook my head, telling him I was very sorry to see it, for where forage was abundant, there our stay was sure to be long. Ohmed Mahomed, to close the dialogue, and get away, responded, ‘* Khwah, ehwah ” (yes, yes); “Jimel, big-belly,” making signs; “ Jimel, carry big box. Jimel, little-belly,” screwing himself up. ‘‘Jimel, carry marfish” (nothing). ‘The EFFECT OF MIRAGE. 319 English of all this, it must be understood, was pan- tomimic; and a pretty good idea may be drawn from this little scene, of the manner in which con- versations were carried on, between me and some of my companions. May 3d.—Long before sunrise this morning, I was awoke by the hoarse voice of Ohmed Mahomed, as he stood upon one of the boxes, giving the usual loud cry, as a signal for starting. For some reason or other, it had been arranged that the Hy Sou- maulee and myself, instead of preceding the Kafilah, as had been customary, should now remain until the very last camel had moved off the ground. Ohmed Mahomed was, perhaps, not quite sure, but that we might give him the slip, and push on for Shoa, without waiting for him. After I had booted and belted, I retired to a large stone with my carbine in my hand, where I sat until the camels were all loaded, and, one after the other, in detached strings of six or eight, led by a slave, the long rope halter thrown over one shoulder, and his spear on the other, were stalking solemnly along the winding path among the clumps of trees, which now hid them for a moment or two from the view, and between which they then again appeared, until lost altogether to sight among the distant foliage. Whilst I was sitting, I had an opportunity of observing a singular effect of mirage upon the summit of a long low ridge, that formed one of the sides of the 320 SUPERNATURAL FIGURE. valley of Hasanderah. It evidently depended upon the refraction of the rays of light passing through a stratum of air, in which was suspended or contained a considerable quantity of the vapour of water, and which, of less specific gravity than the air itself, was rising from the damp earth in this neighbourhood. On the top of the ridge, standing in high relief, from the grey sky behind him, was a Bedouin, who, of gigantic proportions, seemed to be quite as tall as a very high tree, which was erowing near to where he stood. I looked at him with astonishment; and thought of the enemy described by Ossian’s frightened scout,—‘‘*I saw their chief, tall as a rock of ice; his shield the rismg moon, his spear a blasted pine;” of so enormous a size, was the figure and arms of this supernatural-looking being. Feeling assured that it must be some unusual phenomenon, rather than anything real, I left my seat to examine more closely the unmoving bronze colossus upon the height. A short walk soon proved to me that I was not wrong in my idea of the real character of this appearance, for I found that the tall tree, on my approach, sunk into a low mimosa _ bush, scarcely five feet high, and the tall giant reduced himself, to the form of my Hy Soumaulee friend, Carmel Ibrahim, who was waiting very leisurely a little apart, like myself, the departure of the Kafilah. | When the word was given for us to start after MEET SOME ISSAH SOUMAULEE. S21 the camels, I mounted my mule, and travelled at a pace that suited her exactly, being about seven hours marching fourteen miles. We soon ascended from the valley of Hasanderah, and passing over the ridge, emerged into a very extensive treeless plain, where were numerous denuded bases of small volcanic cones, the remains of which consisted of stratified concentric circles of black lava, just appearing above the surface of the ground. The diameters of the numerous instances of this peculiar geological structure, I passed during the day, varied from fifteen to thirty yards. Grass was everywhere abundant. Numerous sand-pillars moved along before and behind us; sometimes, as many as twenty, or even thirty, appearing in sight at once. They varied considerably in form, from that of an upright exact column to that of an inverted trumpet, sustained at an angle of 50° from the horizon. On our march we were overtaken by four men, whom, Ohmed Medina, on seeing, instantly pointed out to me as being Issah Soumaulee. That they differed in some respects from the Dankalli, was obvious, at first sight; but this was most strikingly apparent in the character of their arms. In the first place, they carried neither spears nor shields, instead of these, having light bows and rather bulky quivers, which hung under the left arm, from the shoulder of the same side, by broad VoL. I. N S22 OF THE AVALITES. leathern bands. In the belt of untanned hide, which secured the fotah, or cloth, around the waist, they had each an old rusty knife in a worn-out scabbard, and scarcely eight inches long. The rude hilts of these weapons were merely round bits of wood, hollowed between the ends for the grasp of the hand. In the long frizzly character of their hair, and in the colour of their skin, they resembled the Dankalli, with whom their stature, and the general character of their features, also accorded. At the present day, the Dankalli and Soumaulee are distinct, as nations; but, the great similarity of their language, of their customs, and their indistinct separation, in the various tribes that border on this road to Abyssinia, and which made it therefore a most interesting one, prove them to have descended from one common origin, the Avalites of ancient geographers. Some modification in the character of these ancient people, has been occasioned by intermix- ture with other nations, which has produced a difference in personal appearance. In the north, acted upon by the Grecian and Egyptian colonists, who made that part of the country of the Avalites, arich and populous kingdom. ‘Their representatives at the present day, the Dankalli, have assumed, or retained, the Circassian type; whilst in the south and west, their long intercourse with Shankalli OF THE BOWS OF THE SOUMAULEE. B20 tribes, have given somewhat of the character of the Negro to the more southern Soumaulee and the inland Galla. The bows of the Soumaulee are of the most classical shape, having a central depression, between two curved arms, at the extremities of which, the strong catgut string is fastened. Instead, as in the bows best known to us, the middle portion of the string being at the greatest distance from the centre, in those used by the Soumaulee, this part of the string actually rests upon the wood in that situation, and each time the arrow is discharged, strikes the back of the left thumb of the archer, with great force. Thinking I should not be aware of this, Ohmed Medina, as a practical joke, put one of the bows into my hand, and requested me to bend it; with a very great effort I effected this, but took care to let the string down gently, with a knowing kind of wink, which made them all laugh at seeing me up to the little trick intended. The quivers were made of a long cucumber-kind of gourd shell, but quite straight, with a parch- ment cover, which fitted like the top of a large pull-box. Inside were contained ten or twelve arrows, about a foot long, made of a thin hollow reed. These were each armed with a broad head of blue steel, the shape and size of the ace of spades, attached to a nail-like spike, one inch and a-half long, which, when the arrow was to be used, was thrust into a deep hole, down one extremity. The lower end Y 2 324 ENVENOMED ARROWS. of the shaft was feathered, as usual, for the purpose of steadying it in its flight. When sucha weapon is discharged, and strikes the game, the endeavours which are made, by the animal to escape, occasion the head to become detached from the reed, which falls to the ground, whilst the former remains in the wound; and as it is loaded with a black mass of vegetable poison, the absorp- tion of this into the system, soon terminates the life of the animal. I had no opportunity, nor has any other traveller, I believe, of identifying the plant, which supplies this poison, with the ‘* Kuphorbia Antiquorum,” of botanists. I do not think it inhabits the low country of the basin of the Hawash; for the Soumaulee told me, they obtained it from the South of Hurrah; and as this city stands upon the highland, where commences the watershed of the river Whabbee, to the south, I should suppose, that the poison plants of the Soumaulee will not be determined, until some traveller has visited that locality. The party who joined us on the road, had just before succeeded in killing an ostrich, and each possessed a small parcel of the feathers.. These were preserved in portions of the gut of the bird, cleaned and dried in the sun, through which, the feathers were carefully drawn, in the direction of the plumage, so as not to disarrange it. Besides these, contained in the parcels, they had others tied in a bunch, which they freely distributed among ORDER OF MARCH. B25 my escort, all of whom in a very short time were decorated, with one stuck at the back of their coarse, black, frizzly hair, over which curled the light, white, dancing feather, with very good effect, and in excellent keeping with the rest of the picture of savage life, our road presented. One was given to me, but as I could not conveniently carry it in my hat, I secured it for the present, in the head-stall of my mule’s bridle; and. the toilet of the whole party beimg finished, and our introduction to the Soumaulee concluded, we parted, and proceeded on our different ways; we, in the direction that the Kafilah had taken, whilst the strangers continued on their way in the direc- tion of Owssa. We were moving on, Ohmed Medina, by the side of my mule, talking all the way about the wars of the several tribes of the Dankalli, between themselves, and the Galla living on the banks of the Hawash. The Hy Soumaulee, in lines of six or seven, kept pacing away after us; each extended party listening to one of their number who was giving a very energetic relation of some late personal rencontres, in which he had been engaged. So occupied, were all, with the conversations of each other, that none but myself heard a distant shout from the rear, and turning, on my mule, I made out the running figure of a man, whose spear-head, even at the distance he was, glanced brightly in the sun’s light, and enabled me to 326 RETURN OF GARAHMEE. decide that the approaching object was really a native, and on my directing attention, we all stopt for him to come up. He turned out to be an old acquaintance, Garahmee, whom I had begun to think had deserted us altogether. He had been two days on the journey, to overtake the Kafilah, travelling principally in the night; and had intended to have halted this day at Hasanderah. Finding, on his arrival there, traces of our departure very recent, he determined to push on at once, and our staying to converse with the Issah Soumaulee, had enabled him to come up with us, before half the day’s march had been performed. Although I had no great love for the cunning old rascal, I thought it would be prudent to be polite to him, so I dismounted, and proposed, that as he must be very tired, he should ride; at the same time pointing to the head of the mule, directed his attention to the feather placed there, as if it had been saved only for him. After a little delay, we were again on our march, and soon overtook the rearmost camels, but as we walked much faster, gradually left them all behind. As I came up, the conductor of every fresh string, or the owner, walking by the side of his own beast, vociferated, ‘‘ Ah- keem,” ‘‘Ahkeem,” as if our long separation, two hours before, must have obliterated all remem- brance of them out of my memory, and they wished to receive some comfort and an assurance to HALT AT BUNDURAH. 327 the contrary, by my bawling out, in reply, their respective names, with an affectionate inquiry after their health. One good thing was, that among them Mahomed seemed to be a part of every master’s name, for if it were not Ohmed Mahomed it was almost sure to be Mahomed Ohmed, whilst the slaves all answered either to Allee or Zaido, so there was not much chance of being wrong. They were also a good-humoured set, for they were sure to laugh if I hit upon the nght name, and a great deal more so, if I were wrong; but as remembering a man is as little attention as we possibly can pay to any one who acts courteously to us, I took care to flatter them when I could, by saluting my companions by their proper names. We halted at a place called Bundurah, the elevated apex of a large triangular plain, the base of which to the south was formed by the Obhurah range of hills, inhabited by the Alla Galla. Bun- durah appeared to have been the central point of some extensive elevatory movement of the surface of the earth in this situation, as several long low ridges of lava radiated from it, especially to the north. To the west were also a great number of small volcanic cones, some of which looked like craters, but too distant for me to examine them. The plain was bare of trees, but abounded in grass and a plant of the mint species, like bergamot, which diffused a very fragrant odour. We found here several Bedouins of the Wahama 328 DEBATEABLE LAND. tribe, and the object of keeping me in the rear with the Hy Soumaulee escort was now obvious, for we entered, it seemed, to-day, the territories of these people whom we had every reason to expect would receive us in an hostile manner. It was, therefore, to protect the weak and _ straggling camels, who would be most likely to be attacked, if they were left behind without guard, that we had remained at Hasanderah so long after the Kafilah had started this morning. Bundurah was not, strictly eptecitan Wahama territory, but a kind of debateable land, which extended to our next halting-place, Kuditee. The Hy Soumaulee contend that this district belongs to them, and on this plea the people of Tajourah raised their objection to the Wahama Kafilahs coming to their port, for, possessing no country upon the line of road to Shoa, it was argued the proper point for the Wahama to communicate with foreign markets ought to be Zeilah. The Wahama, how- ever, being the largest of all the Dankalli tribes, and the Hy Soumaulee the least, the latter are not able to contend the matter with them, and are obliged to submit to the usurpation they have no means of preventing; whilst the Tajourah people dare not refuse to the Wahama the convenience of their town for mercantile purposes, or most assuredly their road to Shoa would be closed S this powerful tribe. Those whom we met at Bundurah had only POLICY OF OHMED MAHOMED. 329 arrived the day before, having been to the south of Errur with an expedition against the Alla Galla, who occupy the country between the Wahama and Hurrah. They had heard nothing about the quarrel at Herhowlee, and were very well disposed to be on good terms with us. One of our new friends displayed above his hair a white ostrich feather, and around his neck, wrist, and ankles, were small twisted strips of goat skin, he having killed a Galla during the expedition. The boss of his shield, the handle of his knife, and the head of his spear, were also bound round with knots of the same twisted skin. Ohmed Mahomed, anxious to secure friends among the Wahama, paid every attention to those we met in this place, and on one of the two women who accompanied them bestowed a piece of blue sood, or half a dollar, whilst I was called upon to make some present to the Galla slayer, which I did by giving him a handful of tobacco and some paper. ‘The woman, by the bye, was an old lady- love of Ohmed Mahomed, and the sister of Lohitu. She had now become the helpmate of an influential man among the Wahama. Altogether our meeting with this party was most fortunate, as they proved grateful for the little presents they all received from us, and advocated our cause with good effect in the subsequent calahms of their — tribe. This was the object which made Ohmed Mahomed so assiduously to cultivate their friend- eee ee ee ele ee ee ee — ee o_O se Ue ee 364 HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. decorum proper on the occasion. This reception was so flattering, that I began to conclude my appearance, as a civilized being, must be a good deal worn off, and that my life in the desert had given me somewhat of the savage air of one of these roving family of man. ‘They invited us into one of the huts, and a large bundle of split palm- leaves, ready for the women to plait into mats, was placed for me to sit down upon. Scarcely had I taken the offered seat, than a woman brought in a large basket of milk, which was fairly divided between Abu Mahomed and myself; and after it was finished, we proceeded to view the stores. I found them carefully enough heaped up between two of the huts, above which they stood some feet in height, and were covered with three or four covers of tarpaulin, the remains of a large tent, which being worn out and useless, had been also left with the boxes. They consisted principally, of the trunks of Dr. Roth and Mr. Scott, some boxes of ammunition, as also others containing a very small seed bead, a favourite with the Christians of Shoa, but of no value to the Dankalli people, two corn-mills, and two boxes of silks, and valuables. All these, with the exception of the latter, had been opened. But as Abu Mahomed had told me not to notice this circumstance, I did not ask for any explanation, being satisfied with what he had informed me upon the road, that seven days ago, he had seen them BEDOUIN SIMPLICITY. 365 untouched, and that it must have been the insti- gation of some of my Kafilah, that had induced the -man to allow them to be forced open. ‘The injury done to some of the boxes, where a deal of violence had been used to open them, the man did attempt to account for, by stating, that they had been broken during the journey, by the knocking about consequent upon the numerous loadings, and unloadings of the camels, whilst the holes in the ammunition and other boxes, he attributed to the curiosity of the children of the kraal. One box containing beads was so much damaged, that I was obliged to have the parcels placed in skin-bags. How all the things that had been left here so long, failed to excite the cupidity of the people, is beyond my comprehension. Paper, printed ging- hams, and actually, some thirteen or fourteen dollars, in a box belonging to Mr. Scott, were left untouched. ‘The beads, whatever may be said of their not being the kind, most in demand among the Dankalli, must still have been thought of some value. In this short review of the facts, it must be understood, that the inhabitants of ‘Tajourah surpass in unprincipled cunning, the Bedouins of the interior, as they are on the other hand inferior to them in courage; so that the disgraceful conduct of Ohmed Mahomed, and Ebin Izaak, in the clandestine search they made, for dollars sup- posed to be contained in some of the packages, must not influence any opinion, that may be formed 366 HONESTY OF THE DANKALLI. respecting the character of the inhabitants of the interior. When Mahomed Allee took the last Kafilah of stores for the mission to Shoa, four thousand dollars and some musket cartridges were forwarded in similar packages; by some means the Tajourah people became acquainted with the fact, and when they heard of shot boxes being among those left at Errur, unable to be carried up, they jumped to the conclusion at once, that these boxes must also contain dollars. This led to their endeavour to prevent me seeing the boxes until they had per- fectly satisfied themselves of their contents; and finding nothing but the presence of what, in their possession, would convict them of the dishonest action, they had left the articles untouched, and then, making a virtue of their disappointment, commented loudly upon the integrity and good faith of the Dankalli people. Care having been evidently taken of the property to protect it from the weather, and the man and his friends behaving so civilly to me on the occasion of my visit, I promised him, on my return to camp, a half dollar’s worth of blue sood for his wife, and a coloured cotton handkerchief for a son who was to be circumcised in a day or two. On such occasions, as in Arabia, all the personal riches and household furniture of the family are paraded, and a great entertainment provided. So much for the boxes I found in this place, MURDER OF A SLAVE. 367 and which occasioned me considerable anxiety and trouble during the four days we stayed at Hiero Murroo. What I regretted most was the offence [ had given Ohmed Medina, who, in common with the rest of the Tajourah people, resented my holding any intercourse with the father of Mahomed Allee. None of them spoke to me for two days, but I remained in my hut in perfect contentment; pulling down a mat over the entrance, and making Zaido place a camel saddle as a kind of chevaux de frise in front, I slept very comfortably during the heat of the day. At night I took the precaution of building up the entrance of my hut with stones, whilst, over the region of my stomach I placed a shield, and curled one of my arms around my neck, so that any attempt upon my life would have been almost sure to have awakened me. Though I was spared, an unfortunate slave of my friend Himyah was murdered by one of my Hy Soumaulee escort, for some offence committed by the unfortunate man during the preceding © day. Although in the scuffle that immediately ensued he had been severely wounded in the face, this did not satisfy his opponent, who, unob- served, stole upon him during the night, and struck his dagger into the chest above the breast bone, killing him at one blow. The murderer next morning paraded with a large black feather in his hair, and was the coolest of the whole party as 368 FINE FOR SHEDDING BLOOD. they sat alone, during the deliberations which ensued upon this deed of blood. Five bullocks was the fine imposed, which was paid by his friends collectively, who applied to me, to authorize Ohmed Mahomed to advance the money for that purpose. At first I insisted upon the Ras ul Kafilah discharging this man, but Ohmed Medina corroborating the statement that this was impos- sible in our situation, I had no other course but to resolve not to have any communication with the murderer. Even this I was only able to do for a few days, as the fellow would still come and sit down at the éntrance of my hut, and converse with as much ease, as if conscious only of having done a most meritorious act. My last resort, therefore, to express my own abhorrence of his dastardly conduct, was to address him always as Cain, and by that name he very soon became known to the whole Kafilah, but of course, no one had any idea of the allusion contained in the appellation. Our stay in Hiero Murroo being so long, and the place abounding with shrubby clumps of the moomen or tooth-brush-tree, nearly all the Kafilah people formed for themselves, with their knives, rude bowers, by cutting out some of the underwood, and scattering it over the top to increase the shade. In this manner sometimes three or four tenants would occupy one bush. The moomen, or woomen, as I have heard it also called, grew at the convenient ABUNDANCE OF SUPPLIES. 369 distance of not more than five yards from each other, and towards evening I often took a walk, along the naturally formed lanes, to pick up some trait of character, by observing the inmates and their occupation in these human nests. If they were not sleeping, which was most frequently the case, they would perhaps be mending a tobe, or making their ox-skin sandals. Sometimes two idle rascals, lying upon their stomachs, would be passing away the time by a game called gubahtah, played with thirty-two pieces of dried camel’s dung, which were to be duly apportioned, according to certain laws, into sixteen holes, and depends, somewhat like backgammon, upon the choice of position and chance of number. Many of the bushes were festooned inside and out, with strings of meat drying in the sun, upon which the circling falcon, which in great numbers always accompany a Kafilah, would make frequent stoops, scarcely scared, by the yell and often-hurled stones of the watching slave-boy. In this place, as was usual where there was plenty of grass and water, we had constant supplies of milk. We also readily purchased young kids for needles or tobacco, and I generally preferred one of these to the dry venison of the chase, in the pursuit of which I always incurred much trouble and disap- pointment. Had I been possessed of a good rifle, it would have been very different, but for hunting purposes my short double-barrelled carabine was VOL, I. B B 370 PRINCIPAL MEDICAL CASES. good for nothing. Presents were also frequently made, in return for medicine consisting, in addition to bags of milk, sometimes of a fine sheep or goat, so that the Hy Soumaulee, whilst we were living here, fared sumptuously at no expense to me, for Ohmed Mahomed was more conscientious, or had began to know me better than to make his every second day demand for a bullock. } Diseases of the eyes I found most prevalent among the Dankalli. Sometimes I was asked to afford assistance in cases of severe sword and spear wounds. One of the men belonging to the kraal where I found the boxes had three large wounds in the side, each one of which looked sufficient to have produced death; and besides these, he had a spear wound completely through the muscles of the thigh. In treating several of their complaints I had recourse to an infallible water cure, for having but a small stock of medicine, I was obliged to contrive how to make them go as far as could. Epsom salts, among other sweet things, was considered quite a bon-bon, and of this article I had but about one pound weight, so I dispensed it generally in tea-spoonsful to each applicant, instructing them, at the same time, that to increase its effect they must drink a great deal of water immediately after taking it. In one case, an anxious mother returned some two or three hours after I had given her son a dose of the salts. As she stooped down to look into my WATER REMEDY. 371 apothecary’s shop, chattering away, she pointed to a large empty water-skin which she held in her hand; I could not understand her, but Zaido came to my assistance, and explained, that the woman wished to know, if her son might relieve himself by making water, ‘‘ for,” said he, ‘‘ he has taken three of those water-skinsful already, and he must do so, before he can drink any more, or he will burst most assuredly.” I gave the desired permission, and the woman departed. ‘‘Zaido,” said I, when she was gone, “ when I say, drink a great deal of water, I do not mean as much as a thirsty camel can take, but only a good sized basket-full.” Zaido, as my assistant dispenser and interpreter, promised attention, and no deaths in consequence of excessive drinking occurred. During the two last evenings of our stay in this place, several individuals of the Muditu people appeared on the outskirts of our camp, in parties of three or four. They were not received amongst us; generally standing at a distance of thirty or forty yards from the salt loads and stores. ‘They examined us with some degree of interest, and were evidently endeavouring to form some idea of our purposes and movements. Their appearance, however, broke through the reserve that had for the better part of two days’ been observed between me and the people of the Kafilah, on account of my apparent predilection, for the father of their detested rival, Mahomed Allee. They now came BB 2 Oe BEDOUIN ARITHMETIC. to my hut, telling me in a low voice I mnst come out to frighten away the Assa-hemerah Muditu, by firmg off my guns. This was done with very good effect, for they invariably took the hint, and after a few minutes’ stay, to save their honour, I suppose, they moved off the ground. On one of these warning intimations, a loud laugh was raised at the expense of one of our Muditu visitors, who, in the sudden astonishment occasioned by the report, brought up his spear to the attitude for launching it, but with the butt-end towards me. One evening, Carmel Ibrahim, the Hy Soumaulee chief, was sitting upon the ground by my side, amusing himself and me by his vain endeavours to count thirty, which proved to be beyond his arithmetical powers, even with the aid of small stones. Counting these by fives, he produced a total of thirty-five, and when I said they were wrong, he added another five to correct the error. At last, with the aid of Allee, who had been taught the Arabic numerals at school in Tajourah, the thirty stones were ranged in a line, and I began my lesson, to learn their names in the Affah or Dankalli tongue. Whilst thus engaged, Allee caught sight of three men coming in a direction from the north, the country of the Assa-hemerah. They approached the Kafilah very cautiously, and evidently trying to conceal their advance, by covering themselves with the low bushes between us and _ them. FALSE ALARM. Sia Carmel and Allee sprung to their spears, crying out the usual alarm, ‘‘ Koo, koo, koo,” whilst I made a dive into my hut for my carabine and pistols. All the Kafilah men rushed to arms, and we were soon sitting, as usual, in a semicircular line, in a direction looking towards the expected foe. After sitting nearly half an hour, and no enemy appearing, Carmel Ibrahim got up, and beckoning to me to accompany him, we went together for some distance in the front, until it was too dark to discern distant objects, when we returned, and dissipated the apprehensions of the rest as to any body of men being in the neighbourhood. ‘The few first seen were some prowling thieves, quite as likely to have been Wahama as Muditu, and could have no hostile intention upon the Kafilah beyond indi- vidual murder, or stealing any trifling thing they might have met with. The assembly having dispersed upon our report to their several bowers, Zaido and Allee set about slaughtering a sheep, Allee cutting the throat whilst Zaido threw himself upon the struggling animal. Seeing there was every probability of its escaping, I went to their assistance, calling out “ Allah achbah! Allah achbah!” to summon some Bedouins [| saw over the top of the next bush to give us their aid, conceiving that the common Islam ejacu- lation over animals being killed, would be the best intimation that could be given them, of what was goingforward. One of them understood me properly, 314 BEDOUIN BANQUET. and soon came pushing round the bush to this labour of love. Dropping down by the side of Zaido, he caught hold of the head of the sheep by the chin, fixed its shoulders against his knee, and bending the former back, with a furious wrench tore the wound in the throat open by the force, and effected at once the dislocation of the neck, and immediate death. Soon flaying the animal, they dragged asunder the joints, separating the bones from their articulations by many twists, and with as little use of their well-preserved knives as possible. The flesh thus almost torn from the body was put into cooking vessels, whilst the head, with the skin still attached, was placed amidst the wood ashes of the fire, until the brain was well stewed in the bony cavity of the skull. The shank bones, broken between large stones, afforded to their fortunate possessors delicious tit-bits of raw marrow, drawn with a long spluttering sough into the mouth. The entrails, after being taken out, were hastily drawn through the closed hand, to squeeze the contents upon the ground, and without more dressing, transferred to the pots along with the other meat, and which were soon bubbling fast and furious, over the crackling, sparkling brushwood or dried mimosa that formed the fuel. By and by the savage banquet is prepared, and the meat taken from the pots is put upon mats, or into the hollow of an old shield; every one now tries to get first to help himself, all struggling and pushing, but in the POLITE ATTENTIONS. 3815 best of humour. ‘The circle nearest the meat hesitating to choose, thinking they possess the advantage of position, find hands intruding from behind, that carry off the very pieces, they had just fixed their minds upon. It was not frequently that I joined these dinners, but whenever I did, I was received with every atten- tion. One after another would push towards me his portion of the meat, or cut off with his knife that which he conceived to be the choicest bit, and which he would hand or toss to me, according as my distance was, from the party who paid me this compliment. Nor were they niggardly in the offermgs thus made, and large lumps of fat in quick succession were tempting me to eat from every side. One lucky fellow, happy in the posses- sion of some part of the entrails, would, perhaps, before he presented it for my acceptance, repass it through his pressing fingers, to extract more of its contents, with a kind of instinct, or an acute perception, that the less it contained of the dirty matter the more agreeable it would be to me. I have had oceasion previously to mention, that it is usual among the Dankalli to make but one meal a-day. It is, however, very seldom that this consists of animal food, for the Bedouins never think of slaughtering cattle for their own use. Milk, and occasionally, as a luxury, draughts of the rich fluid butter called ghee, constituting their food all the year round. On the settlement of blood feuds, 376 USE OF THE ENTRAILS WORN when it is agreed that the compensation, consisting always of a number of cattle, shall be killed and eaten by the previously contending tribes, or when an animal has received some serious injury, or is about to die from disease, are the only occasions of indulgence in animal food. | Grain of any kind, dates, or vegetables, are unknown as the products of the country of Adal south of Owssa, although many parts — are well calculated for the cultivation of all kinds of useful tropical plants. Cotton, indigo, and sugar, I am sure would thrive most Iuxu- riantly along the broad valley of the river of Kallalu, called Waha-ambillee, and which extends from the west of Lake Abhibhad to the extensive and widely-spreading plains of Errur to the south, to the base of the Oburah and Goror range. In my notes written on this spot, I find the follow- ing observation recorded. That portion of the entrails, with which the Dankalli, in common with the other savage inhabitants of this part of Africa, are said to adorn themselves, is the omentum, or peritoneal covering of the bowels, and which corre- sponds with what, in our butchers’ shops, is called the leaf, and from which lard is rendered. ‘This omentum abounds with fat, easily melted by the sun. It is taken and twisted by the hands into a kind of rope, which is tied around the neck, the ends hanging low behind the back. It is not, there- fore, for ornament that entrails are worn by these AROUND THE NECKS OF BEDOUINS. } 9377 people, but for the relief and comfort the skin receives from unctuous substances, when lable to exposure under a burning sun, and which has dictated the employment, of this natural and constant supply of grease, in the manner I have described. One afternoon I was again treated with an extempore song, a method of expressing their feelings which appears to afford great pleasure to the Dankalli. I was sitting on the ground at the entrance of my hut, thinking upon past scenes and pleasures, at the same time humming a favourite old tune. ‘This attracted the attention of Moosa, who, with the large wooden packing-needle they use for sewing the palm-leaf salt-bags, was mending my mule’s head-gear, two straps of which had got broken. Ejecting, with averted head, a ereat quantity of tobacco juice from his mouth far upon the sand, he began a low muttering song, which was soon joined in by Carmel Ibrahim, who lay in a neighbouring bush, Carmel, as usual, introducing my name, and exciting considerable mirth among the listeners who gathered around, but their merriment was as far as possible from being of a disrespectful character. Every evening ball-playing amused the greater part of the Kafilah people, and the loud shouts on the Wahama side told of their being also engaged in the same noisy busy game. It was rather too boisterous for me to join, though I was often 3718 GYMNASTICS. invited by our party, but I showed off by balancing some heavy sheets of pewter, Ohmed Medina was taking up to the Shoan market. All these I could lift with the greatest ease, and project them from one shoulder a considerable distance. None of my Dankalli companions could do this, and although I was very weak from my recent illness, they all acknowledged my superior strength. This was admitted on more than one occasion; but I recollect once particularly, at Arabderah, being requested to heave away, a large stone half buried in the soil. Garahmee, on going to prayers, there being no water, was necessitated to go through the perform- ance in sand, and the cavity in which the stone was embedded was to represent the bathing vessel. ~ Moosa, Carmel Ibrahim, Ohmed Medina, all tried to remove the stone without the least effect, but I rolled it out with comparative ease. From this circumstance, which was corroborated by other opportunities of observation, I do not consider bodily strength to be a characteristic of the Dankalli, although for agility and endurance under fatigue, I think they are unequalled by any people, not excepting even the North American Indians. That they would incur voluntarily this exercise of their physical and moral endurance is another thing, and from what little I know of them I do not think they would. After remaining at Hiero Murroo five days, J was not sorry to find that we were to start on the LEAVE HIERO MURROO. 379 morning of the sixth. Although I had deter- mined not to appear anxious to get the journey over, still I could not help bribing Ebin Izaak with five dollars, to induce Ohmed Mahomed not to delay our march, after the boxes of Mahomed Allee’s Kafilah came into camp, which was on the morning of the fifth day of our stay, and accord- ingly, before evening, I received the intimation of our move the next morning. During the last day we were joined by several smaller Kafilahs, of from eight to twenty camels, so that we could now muster with the Wahama Kafilah, between three and four hundred camels, and nearly two hundred fighting men. 380 CHAPTER XXV. Journey from Hiero Murroo to Mettah.—General direction, W.S. W., time marching four hours and a-half.—Conversa- tion upon different roads through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the Muditu and the Dankallii—Battle of Hihillo. —Surprise sleeping friend.—Frighten my servant Allee.—Halt near Assa-hemerah kraal. May 12th—We were up and away long before sunrise. Ohmed Medina and I were accompanied by a crowd of the escort and Kafilah men, all dis- coursing upon some great engagement that had taken place some few years before, when Lohitu led the combined Dankalli tribes against the Assa- hemerah Muditu, who occupied the whole country on the east of the Hawash, from Owssa to the ford of Mulkukuyu, where our road crossed the Hawash. The scene of this sanguinary conflict was about two hours’ march to the north-west of where we were, at the base of a high conical mountain which now came into sight, having previously been shut from the view by the small range of Abhidah. Almost all my Hy Soumaulee escort had been present in the battle, and I received long accounts, during the march, through the interpreting medium of Ohmed THE ASSA-HEMERAH MUDITU. 381 Medina, who himself was not there, but who took as much interest in the relations as I did. It appears that for some years previous to 1839, the road to Shoa had been closed to the merchants of Tajourah and of Ambabbo, who previously had carried on an extensive trade with that country, taking up salt from Lake Assal, and receiving in return Abyssinian slaves, who were sold to great advantage in the Mahomedan ports on the shores of the Red Sea. The Assa-hemerah live on the north side of the more western portion of the road through Adal, and although speaking the same language, deny their nationality with the Dankalli tribes. This was their plea for extorting exorbitant duties for many years previous to 1839, but having at length fully established an intercourse with Shoa through their own country, by another passage of the river Hawash, north of Mulkukuyu, _ they endeavoured to monopolize the trade in salt and slaves. ‘To effect this, they seized the whole country to the north of the road to Bahr Assal, and allowed no Tajourah Kafilah either to load with salt at the lake, or to proceed for slaves to Shoa. For several years the Assa-hemerah had thus excluded all but their own Kafilahs from entering Shoa by the direct road, attacking and plundering all other Kafilahs that attempted it. I make the observation “direct road,” for we learn from the journal of Izenberg and Krapf, published by the Church Missionary Society, that the Tajourah 382 OTHER TRIBES COMBINE. people had some communication still with the kingdom of Shoa. They were, however, obliged to move with their camels along the sea-shore to the head of Goobat ul Khhrab, then, during the night, pass rapidly over the five or six miles which intervene between the sea in this situation and the salt lake. Loading their camels with the salt, they then returned to Tajourah. From this town they proceeded to Zeilah in bogalows, or native boats, and by a circuitous route through the country of the Issah Soumaulee, at length reached Shoa. It was not likely such a palmy state of things, for the Assa-hemerah people, would be allowed to flourish long, without exciting some envy and jealousy, especially among the inhabitants of Tajourah and Owssa, who had not forgotten the great advantages that accrued to them when an uninterrupted road allowed them to carry on a direct trade with the populous countries to the west of the Hawash. Accordingly, through the machinations of some of the wise men of Tajourah, the braves of all the Dankalli tribes in the interior, consented to combine their forces under one leader, and Lohitu, the Debenee chief, was unanimously chosen to fill that post. Owssa is inhabited by a Muditu tribe, but on this occasion they assisted the Tajourah people, because of their dependance upon that port, to enable them to communicate with foreign markets, as the Owssa Muditu carry on a considerable trade with Gondah and Central | BATTLE OF HYHILLOO. 383 Abyssinia. The other leagued tribes were the Issah Soumaulee, the Wahama, the Hy Soumaulee, the Debenee, and a mixed multitude of minor sub- divisions that could scarcely be considered separate tribes. ‘Tajourah and Ambabboo also sent their warriors ; but Ohmed Medina laughed when he said they only sent ten men between them. Altogether the combined forces amounted to one thousand men, who were gathered together on San-karl to the west of the valley of Gubard, and which I recollected to have been pointed out to me by Lohitu himself as the rendezvous of his tribe on such occasions. From San-karl they proceeded to Kuditee, and slept there the night preceding the engagement. The next morning they entered the country of the Assa-hemerah, two thousand of whom had collected upon the flank of the mountain Hyhilloo, to give battle to the invaders. Lohitu led his men directly to their front, and after a few personal combats, in which the leader and my little Tajourah acquaint- ance, Ibrahim Shatan, particularly distinguished themselves, the battle became general, and in less than one hour after they had first seen the Muditu, the latter fled, leaving more than one half their number slain. Of the allies, I was informed, the Issah Sou- maulee lost the greatest number, one hundred of them having been killed. The Debenee lost sixty, the Wahama eighty, the Hy Soumaulee, a very small tribe, thirty, and the Owssa Muditu 384 REACH METTAH. fifty. The Tajourah people lost but one man; whilst of all the others who fought under Lohitu, not as particular tribes, but as amateurs, about twenty were killed, making a total of three hundred and forty-one, and considering the manner in which battles are fought among these people, I can easily conceive how so few, comparatively, of the victorious party were slain. One interesting ethnological fact may be gleaned from this relation; that is, the presence of the Issah Soumaulee on this occasion, which is another evidence to prove, the intimate relationship of the Dankalli with that people. Conversing upon the subject of this fight, we kept marching on for nearly five hours, but as we were in the rear of the Kafilah, and obliged to restrict ourselves to the slow pace of the camels, I do not think we accomplished more than ten miles during that time. We halted at a place called Mettah, or Maida, and the appearance of the country suggested, the appropriateness of the name, which I was given to understand, signified the same as the English word meadow. Our march had been all the morning along a | narrow plain, confined by low level ridges of black lava, about a mile distant from each other. Through the centre, but in a very serpentine course, a shallow channel had been cut through the fine alluvial soil, by an occasional stream, which flows towards the north and east. When we passed MEET WITH A STRANGER. 385 along its banks we only found a few shallow stagnant pools in its bed. On leaving the line of march with Ohmed Medina to examine the stream more closely, we found, in its dry bed, very soundly sleeping, a man wrapt up in his tobe, his shield being secured by it over his stomach and bowels. Instinct, or something like it, had taught me the very same method of partially securing myself from assassination, whenever I expected foul play, or have had reason to suspect those, whom I well knew, would have been glad of an opportunity to take away my life, without danger to themselves from my firearms. Putting my hand to the heavy Adal knife I wore in my girdle, I turned to Ohmed Medina, to ask him if I should bury it in the heart of the unconscious sleeper. He taking my proposal to be serious, instantly interposed with the common Arabic negative, “ La! la!” but which, in the usual amusing manner of an Adal interpretation, he prolonged to five or six repetitions. This awoke the man, who certainly looked as if he thought he were about to be put to death, and scowled most desperately, as in a moment he put himself behind his shield, and raised his spear for the attack. Ohmed Medina calmed his appre- hensions by a word or two, but he also took care to drop behind his shield, as he spoke from the overhanging bank. The man, however, recovered confidence, let fall his weapon to the ground, and stood upright, and in a very short time VOL. I. ome: 386 NUMEROUS SAND SPOUTS. we were all three walking back to the Hy Soumaulee, some of whom came to meet us, to inquire from whence our new friend had sprung. It seemed he belonged to the Wahama tribe, but from some cause or other was obliged to be very select in his lodgings, probably from having had a recent quarrel, which would have insured his death, had he been discovered by his enemy asleep. At Mettah, the narrow plain we had travelled along spread out into an open level country, which appeared bounded by an extensive sea, so perfectly delusive was the appearance of the distant mirage, in which small eminences, here and there appearing, looked like islets standing amidst the waters. Large sand pillars, their bases hidden in the mirage, rising like spirits from the vasty deep, until their tall summits were lost in the blue sky, moved steadily across, acted upon by some stronger current of air, and added one more circumstance to strengthen the delusion, by reminding the travelled spectator, of the water- spouts he has witnessed at sea. After all my experience I persisted in believing that there must be water before me, especially as it lay in the situation of a lake, Murroo, I had heard Lieut. Barker speak of, but Ohmed Medina very quietly referred me, to the stream and its course in an opposite direction, to corroborate his statement of its being “ a great lie.” My mule breaking loose, in consequence of WATCHED BY PARTY OF NATIVES. 387 not having been properly secured by Allee, strayed to a considerable distance towards the opposite side of the plain, and a large party went out to protect Zaido, and both Allees, who were sent to bring her in, for it appeared our movements were being watched by a party of men, squatting on the extremity of the ridge where it projected into the plain. So nearly approaching to the colour of these rocks, were the dark skins of the natives, that it was sometime before I could make them out, or the cause of all the bustle that seemed to have taken possession of the previously quiet camp. I thought at first it was some leopard or hyena, preparations were being made to hunt, that had occasioned the stir, and came out of my hut to see the anticipated sport. When I did discover the men I was sur- prised that such a number could have approached so close, and not have been discovered before. They must have marched parallel to us, covered by the ridge on our left, and the circumstance of its terminating opposite to where we had halted, prevented them continuing their ambush for any purposes of surprise, and our increased numbers made an open attack by them, out of the question. After the mule was driven in, they retired, but upon a report spreading that a large kraal of the Assa-hemerah lay over the other side of the ridge, my Hy Soumaulee friends, and most of the young men of the Kafilah, determined to proceed thither for the purpose, as they said on | OG 2 388 ALLEE’S FALSEHOOD. my protesting against it, to purchase milk. As, however, I knew that robbery was intended, and that murder would probably ensue, I offered them a bullock to remain, which they very reluctantly accepted. On my expostulating with Ohmed Medina, he admitted it was not right, and said very candidly, “ What are my countrymen but wild beasts ?” Allee the First, now came into my hut to claim damages, showing a bruise upon his face, which he asserted had been inflicted by the mule, whilst catching her to bring her back to the camp. I said it was no such thing; for ever since her back had been almost broken by the butt end of the spear of a fat Dankalli, whom she kicked in the belly, I observed she had improved very much in her disposition, and was very cautious how she attempted anything of the sort. However, I told him I would look in my book and see if his tale were correct. Opening, with a very grave counte- nance, Mr. M‘Queen’s Survey of Africa, which I had just been consulting, I looked up, after having examined it, and said, “ Allee, Allee, you are a story-teller, for Ohmed Mahomed hit you that blow in your face.” I never shall forget the conster- nation that appeared in his face, as ejaculating “ Whallah!” (By God), he backed out of my hut, thinking, I really believe, that I should metamor- phise him into something or other before he could get away, for his attempted imposition. Having CONSCIENCE STRICKEN. 389 got safe out of my hut, however, he recovered from his fright, and, as if recollecting himself, said; “ Ahkeem, will you tell me who stole my fedeenah?” alluding to the wooden prop or pillow for the head, I have before observed, as being so generally used by these people. By a singular accident this very fedeenah had been placed under my head by one of the Hy Soumaulee, as I slept out upon the hillside amongst them at Kuditee, whilst expecting the Wahama would attack us. When I was awakened by Ohmed Mahomed in the middle of the night, and told to return to my hut, the man who carried my mat for me brought away the pillow; whose it was I did not know, but as no inquiries were made about it, I always afterwards rolled it up in my Arab cloak for myself, as I found it very comfortable after a little use. I instantly suspected that this was the one respecting which Allee wanted information, and so, affecting to know all about it, I told him I would not tell him who the thief was, for the sake of peace, but that if he came in the evening I would return it myself to him. ‘This, of course, I did, and quite convinced Allee of my immense power over the Jinn. The evil that resulted from this was, that a rumour was spread among the Kafilah that I had dealings with these spirits of fire, Allee swearing positively I carried one with me confined in a bottle, and that he had frequently seen me consult- ing it. The simple fellow meant my thermometer. 390 HOSTILITY OF THE ASSA-HEMERAH. After sunset a large drove of camels, sheep, and goats, were seen moving towards the Assa-hemerah village behind the ridge, but we saw nothing more of the inhabitants. They were evidently influenced by some hostile feeling towards us, for on every other occasion of being in an inhabited neighbour- hood, the women, or at least the children, would bring in milk or young kids as presents, or for sale. 39] CHAPTER XXVI. Journey from Mettah to Murroo, general direction, W.S. W., time marching, three hours and a-half.—Remarks upon the climate of Adal.—Pass some small extinct voleanoes.—A little farriery. —Cautions for practitioners of medicine resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to Murroo.—Halt near kraal of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe. May 13th.—Up at sunrise, and soon after the party of pedestrians followed the camels, proceeding along the plain in a west-south-west direction. ‘The hills of Affrabah to the south-west, the terminal peak of the same range to the south-east, with the Hyhilloo mountain to the north, formed a well-defined tri- angular space of flat open country, which admitted the eye to range over an unbroken view of about ten miles on every side. Nor was this a sterile tract, but covered with a jungle of young mimosa trees, and plenty of excellent grass. Numerous dry watercourses presented themselves as we marched along, and in some, the yet soft clayey soil intimated the recent evaporation of the water. I should have observed, that slight showers of rain, of not longer than two or three minutes’ duration, occurred during every night of our stay in Hiero 392 REMARKS UPON THE Murroo. ‘These were the last sprinklings of the wet season, if the country of Adal may be said to have such distinctions in the unfixed character of its climate. The squally thunder-storms of February, and the great heats of August, constitute the extremes of annual difference, but the persistance in the character of even these months cannot be assured, and from what I observed myself, the reverse of these conditions are just as likely to happen. The same vicissitudes, I was told, characterize every month, and in different parts of Adal these states of the atmosphere exist at the same time. In such an irregular and uncertain climate, the presence of the cloud of fire by night, and the pillar of sand by day are invaluable, as guides to the Bedouin in search of water for his flocks, and natural history does not contain a more striking illustration of the benevolent purposes of God towards man, even in his most evil condition, than these phenomena present. The singular position of the country of Adal is probably the cause of this irregularity in the seasons. Islands that are surrounded by seas are acknowledged to have their climates modified by the circumstances of their situation ; and differing in kind, but exactly analogous, is the effect which is produced by the low position of Adal, surrounded on all sides, except towards the east, by elevated table lands. A reference to the map appended to this volume illustrates my idea better, perhaps, than I can describe it. It will be there seen, that to the north CLIMATE OF ADAL. 393 a water-shed directs the course of the river Takazza to the Nile, whilst to the south, an oppositely correspondent water-shed is drained by the river Whabbee, emptying itself into the Indian Ocean at Juba. Instead of a mountain range, which usually marks the separations of different water- sheds, we here have a huge fissure of habitable land, drained by its own particular water system. To the west, the high plateau of Abyssinia closes the excavated plain of Adal, but it will be perceived that in that direction the progress of extension is rapidly going on, by the denuding agency of the river Hawash, which is annually removing its courses farther to the west, by the vast amount of the Abyssinian highland, it carries away during the rainy season in that country. To this peculiar situation of Adal, therefore, I attribute the great irregularity in the season of the rains, generally so periodical in other intratropical districts. Opportunities of observation have been only afforded me, of becoming acquainted with the fact, but the character of the surrounding countries being known, and the relative position of Adal with these, being borne in mind, I have no doubt meteor- ologists will be able to account, for the irre- eularity and vicissitudes of the climate. To the left of our road, a lake called Iruloff was reported to exist, which contained water all the year round. It communicates with the river of Killaloo. My attention was directed to the 394 FIELD OF EXTINCT CRATERS. subject, by seeing in that direction a cloud of some thousands of the white ibis moving along the horizon. They were much smaller than the Egyptian ibis, and more like the paddy bird of India. Towards the latter end of our march to-day the field of extinct craters again appeared, the cones much larger, and increasing in height as they approached the base of Hyhilloo and Abhidah. The trees and shrubs clothing their sides seemed thicker and more luxuriant; and the ground over which we marched was covered with light green grass, a small lemon-flavoured fragrant mint, and the little blue-flowered thorny-leaved plant of which the camels appear to be so fond. ‘This latter grows about four or five inches high, the numerous flowerets growing along a spike like an ear of wheat, and when the seed is ripe it is not unlike, in form or size, shrivelled corn. Ohmed Mahomed was very ill this morning, and obliged to ride his mule. Another awkward cir- cumstance upon the march was a camel, subject to epileptic fits, falling, was obliged to be unloaded. The Kafilah people all attributed it to Jinn, and as the animal stumbled as if he were drunk, it was not a bad cause to assign for his complaint, especially as he was laden with a few dozens of choice Geneva going up for the use of the Mission in Shoa. This, by the bye, had got the name of ‘* hubble-bubble,” from the rattling of the MEDICAL TREATMENT OF THE SICK. 395 stone bottles against each other, as the husks of some kind of seed, in which they were first packed, got shaken out of the boxes. One of the great complaints brought against Mahomed Allee by the Tajourah people was, his having “ shrab hubble- bubble,” drunk all the gin that had been entrusted to his care as Ras ul Kafilah. Whatever spirit, however, possessed the camel, I was applied to, to exorcise it. To do this I took a large lump of myrrh [ had just gathered from the tree, and a piece of opium I happened to have with me. These I rolled up in paper like a horse ball, and having seen something of the sort in farriery, when giving medicine to cattle, I caught hold of the camel’s tongue with one hand, and passed the other, arm, elbow, and all, far down his throat, so that the animal could not get his physic back again any how; a mode of medical treatment that delighted the Dankalli exceedingly; and, had they been governors of an hospital, they would have been unanimous in appointing me physician, on the ground of my merits alone. My success, too, was surprising, for the camel recovered for the time, and this addition to my fame, increased the confi- dence of Ohmed Mahomed, in the efficacy of the remedies I had also given to him. Had this latter been treated properly he ought to have been bled, as he was evidently labouring under a determination of blood to the head. I was prevented performing this little operation 396 ADVICE TO *“* AHKEEMS” by recollecting the case of an unfortunate Armenian doctor, who, in Suikin, two years before, had been sacrificed by the populace on account of the death of a patient whom he had thus treated. The Turkish Governor of the town, before whom the complaint was made of this treatment, in vain interceded in behalf of the doctor; his expostulations had no effect, and he was obliged to permit that which he was unable to prevent, and the accused was taken from his presence to the outside of the walls of the town, where he was barbarously executed in the usual manner, by the weapons of the friends and relations of his deceased patient. I heard of this in Aden, the fact having been reported by the European Consuls in the neighbouring ports to their respective Governments, and, in consequence, a representation was made to the Porte upon the subject. In such countries if a traveller be requested to afford assistance to sick persons, for whom no hope of recovery exists, his best practice will be to recommend the friends of the patient to pray a certain number of times to Allah, or if he finds he must do something himself, let him give them some written charm or other, but never by any means administer medicine or perform the least operation. In cases when active measures are adopted, and the patient, to the surprise of himself and others, does get well, the cure is always ascribed to Allah alone; but should he die, the doctor is considered responsible for his death, ABOUT TO TRAVEL. 397 which is certain to be attributed to him or his medicines. To show how careful a person ought to be, I shall relate a little incident that occurred to me whilst we were staying at our last halting- place. A woman came for some medicine for her husband, who was said to be very ill indeed. I could not go to see him as he lived ten or twelve miles from the Kafilah. As the woman was very importunate for medicine, which, having no know- ledge of the case, I at first refused, to get rid of her, I opened a package of tea, and giving her a small spoonful, wrapt it up in a bit of old news- paper, and sent her away, with directions how to use it. The next morning, however, I found her, making a terrible noise at the entrance of my hut, saying that her husband was a great deal worse, and all owing to the medicine he had taken. No one could understand the simple character of the remedy I had sent him, so all my explanations went for nothing, until I happened to see, sticking between her skin petticoat and her own black hide, the identical paper I had put the medicine in; and snatching it from her waist, I found the tea still in it, actually untouched. This evidence of the woman’s imposture was conclusive, and she was taken away by those of her friends, who just before were making loud demands of compensation, for the injury they asserted I had done. In simple cases of temporary disordered functions, or when medicine could be demonstrated to possess 398 ARRIVE AT KUMA. specific effects upon the seat of some organic disease, I always gladly availed myself of the oppor- tunity of displaying the advantages and power, derivable from the knowledge of the medical pro- perties of natural substances. In fact, I always pleaded to the more intelligent of my companions, that the desire to obtain an increase of knowledge, as an Ahkeem, was the principal reason why I had left my country to expose my health and life in a country like Adal, among a people so barbarous as even the Dankalli acknowledged themselves to be. The Kafilah halted at Kuma, and a few camels were already unloaded, when it was determined by Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed, that we should proceed at once to Murroo, the residence of a tribe called Sidee Ahbreu, to the chief of which, one Durtee Ohmed, I had a kind of introduction from Lieutenant Barker, similar to the one I had to Abu Bukeree. Of this latter chieftain I had lost sight for several days, although his wives and children often visited me, bright with smiles, some- times bringing me little skins of milk, or a large German-sausage-looking affair, consisting of a por- tion of the dried intestine of a cow filled with ghee. The absence of Abu Bukeree was occasioned by the presence of Abu Mahomed, the father of Mahomed Allee, who was still with the Wahama Kafilah which preceded us about two miles, and who would often visit me in our camp. Two suns at a time are allowed to be too many by the PROCEED TO MURROO. 399 Dankalli; and so, with a becoming politeness, these old gentlemen had agreed to divide my attentions and presents, the father of Mahomed Allee to have the benefit of my acquaintance to Kuma, where the undisputed territory of Abu Bukeree commenced, and this latter was then to take his turn to Murroo. I do not think that when this arrangement was made between them, Abu Bukeree said anything about the present I had already given him. At all events, our Ras ul Kafilah had been no party to this negotiation, and his determination to proceed without halting at Kuma quite deranged their plan; Ohmed Mahomed conceived that it would be more profitable for him to continue the day’s journey on to Murroo, to avoid any more demands from Abu Bukeree for presents, on the plea of halting in his territory. Instructions were accordingly given to the Kafilah not to unload here. A short explanatory calahm with the Debenee chief, who was already on the ground to recelve us, occasioned a little detention, but, as _ already observed, as he had received other presents at Hiero Murroo besides those I had given to him, he was obliged to be satisfied. I did not like to see the old. man treated in this manner, especially as I thought advantage had been taken of the peaceable character of himself and his tribe; so when he came to pay his respects to me as I sat under a tree, waiting with Zaido until the numerous camels had again gone some distance 400 ADIEU TO ABU BUKEREE. a-head, I promised him if he would accompany us to Murroo, to give him the old Arab frock I then wore. He accordingly accompanied us to our encamping ground, and received the almost worn- out garment with many thanks, as he held it up before him, like a Jew calculating the probable value of an old coat. After examining its novel cut and character, the venerable chief at last made up his mind what to do with it, for, nodding to his wife, who was in, what is called, a delicate situation, he intimated his idea that it would very well become her, and bestowed it accordingly. Two little boys were now ordered to drive back a fine bullock, which had evidently been intended as a return present, for those which Abu Bukeree had expected from us. The old gentleman then bowed his salams, and mounted his mule; stooping, as he rode away, over the neck of the animal; the long bent back of age, strikingly contrasted with the straight shaft of the spear he carried on his shoulder. Our halting place, Murroo, was a natural park, in which small green savannahs were surrounded with tall, flat-topped mimosa trees, the trunks of which were hidden, by an interlaced thicket of the ascending and descending runners of some luxu- riantly growing climber. An immense number of sparrow-like birds, with their noisy chirrupings, seemed to raise great objections to our occupation of their favourite resort. ‘The little woodland scene PRACTICE OF PHYSIC. 401 was altogether very pretty; but I was too tired after our long journey of five hours, to have any eye for the beautiful, and was glad to lie down in my hut immediately it was announced ready, bid Zaido place a mat over the entrance, and go to sleep at once. At sunset, I awoke; Zaido bringing a large bowl of boiled wheat and clouted cream for my supper, and under the influence of an excellent appetite, I soon lessened its contents. A strange kind of humming now attracted my attention, and, getting out of my hut, I observed, at no great distance, a small circle of Tajourah people, - who, neither in calahm nor zekar, seemed still to be occupied in the performance of some ceremony, each of the six persons engaged, taking his turn to repeat a short sentence or so, in a low murmuring tone, and then giving way to the next. Going nearer, to see what they were about, I was joined by Allee, who informed me they were doctoring Ohmed Mahomed, in their own fashion, by offering up prayers toAllah, and asked if I thought he would recover. As I had already given to him three strong cathartic pills, and his case was not a despe- rate one, I held out hopes to the distressed Allee, that probably the next morning his master would be quite well. Having approached the circle, and dropt upon my heels, close behind them, I watched the pro- ceedings of these devotee practitioners in medicine, and noticed that each one, in succession, recited VOL. TI. DD 402 VETERINARY SURGERY. in a low voice, the first chapter of the Koran, and then spit upon the patient, who, wrapt up in a black Arab cloak, was lying at full length upon a mat, in the midst of them. Every one having duly performed this ceremony, the circle broke up, and coffee being brought, the good effect of the combined praying and spitting was acknowledged by all, when Ohmed Mahomed sat up, and called for the first cup. This kind of medical treatment is not confined to the diseases of mankind, for on more than one occasion I have seen them adopt the same means of relief for a sick camel. When one of these animals lies down for the night, without performing a little necessary act, it is always consi- . dered a certain symptom of ill health. The owner in this case, procures a piece of string long enough to go round the body of the camel, in which he ties seven knots, at nearly equal distances from each other. As he does this, at each knot, he stops and recites the Fahtah, or first chapter of the Koran, and should he not be able to do this himself, he procures the assistance of some learned friend, who performs that part of the duty for him. At the end of each Fahtah, the knot is spit upon. The string being thus duly consecrated, is then passed under the animal’s belly, and tied upon the back, and during the night, generally produces the diuretic effects desired. May 14th.—Staying at Murroo. ‘The first thing I did to-day was to get out some paper I intended DISHONESTY OF MY SERVANT. 4038 to distribute among the members of the Sidee Ahbreu tribe, whom I expected to come begging. The first thing Allee the First did, was to steal the said paper, whilst I was busy packing up the box again. ‘This he accomplished by putting his hand and arm between two boxes that formed part of my hut, and reaching from behind me the paper, which he then conveyed away beneath his tobe. I did not know who to charge with the rob- bery, but upon complaining to Ohmed Medina, he made some inquiries about it, which led to the detection of Master Allee, who, on being brought before me, retorted by charging me with having _ stolen his fedeenah, or wooden pillow. However innocently on my part, such being the actual case, I consented to a compromise. I was to receive back my paper, and Allee again into favour, without prejudice to his boxeish in Shoa, for his falling off in this instance, from the strict path of duty and honesty. It must be told how he came to know, that I had had possession of his fedeenah during the time he had lost it, and had not, as he at first supposed, procured its return to him by magical incantations. Whilst sitting the evening before with the praying party, after their curious ceremony was over, I was questioned as to my power over the inhabitants of the nether world. I denied any such power, stating that the spell I employed to dispossess the devil, or Jinn, from the sick camel, was a piece of myrrh, and not the paper DDdD2 404 THE SEAT OF DURTEE OHMED. it was wrapt up in. Then came the question how had I been able to procure the return of the wooden pillow; for Allee, as soon as I had given it to him, changed his previous tale of its having been stolen, and asserted he had left it behind at a halting-place, some days’ journey dis- tance, from whence my familiar spirit had brought it at my command. This I satisfactorily explained by relating the whole circumstances; and Allee being laughed at for his credulity, now fell back upon the circumstance of my keeping the fedeenah, without any inquiry as to whom it belonged, to excuse his theft of the paper. Abu Bukeree’s daughter brought some milk he had promised me, and begged hard for a dollar in silver. I referred her to Ohmed Mahomed, who, at my request, gave her, but very unwillingly, a head-covering of blue sood, and sent her away. Our camp was about half a mile from the village of Durtee Ohmed, who was, as I was told, then on an expedition against the Alla Gallas, assisting a party of Wahama, who had gone to retaliate for some recent outrages committed by that people. In ac- cordance with the request of Lieut. Barker, I intended to have given him a present, on being introduced to him, similar to the one I gave Abu Bukeree, and had provided five dollars for that purpose ; as he was from home, however, I fancied they were so many dollars saved, put them up again, and thought no more of the matter. FESTIVITIES AT MURROO. 405 In the evening Ohmed Medina left us, going with Garahmee and Moosa, nearly all the way back again to Herhowlee, as they heard that an elephant had been recently killed at Dowaleekah ; and with the hope of being able to purchase the ivory from the hunters, this party started intending to travel the whole night. Plenty of women thronged the camp, and the men of the tribe, were particularly friendly and quiet. I soon found that family connexions between several of the principal Tajourah people and the elders of the Sidee Ahbreu occasioned the good feeling that existed between us. During our stay at Murroo, a regular fair was held, and at night, singing, dancing, and clapping hands, kept us up until a very late hour. Every day we were receiving fresh accounts of the inroads of the Alla and Hittoo Gallas from the south, who were driving off cattle, and carrying away the younger women of the Dankalli tribes in their immediate neigh- bourhood. This, however, did not interfere with the festivity of the camp, for other Kafilahs came in to join us from every side, and by the third day of our stay, we had in company more than one thousand camels, and could muster above five hundred fighting men. The different Kafilahs kept to themselves, each taking up such a position as was most convenient, but never at a greater distance from each other than two hundred yards. The next day after we arrived, much to my 406 APPEARANCE OF DURTEE OHMED. surprise, for I thought him far enough away, Durtee Ohmed reported himself, and looked somewhat the better for the late stirring business he had been upon ; for, instead of having but one eye, according to the description I recollected to have been given by Lieut. Barker, he had two quite as good as my own. I mentioned this to Ebin Izaak who had accompanied him, as he then explained, for fear any mistake might arise from this circum- stance, and that I should refuse to give him the present, on account of the discrepancy in the appearance of the claimant, from what had been represented to be the case. He was also ready to swear on the Koran as to the identity of the man, and although not perfectly satisfied, still, as I had not been cheated extraordinarily by Ebin Izaak, I thought I would receive his testimony on this occasion, so gave the man three dollars, with which he went away perfectly satisfied. Several messengers arrived from other Kafi- lahs on the road, all desiring us not to move until they had joined us. I was not sorry for the detention, having derived much benefit in my health smce we reached Murroo. I was also nearly naturalized among the Dankalli, who had become accustomed to my complexion, and as for my clothes, they were not very different, either in hue or condition, from theirs. My yellow Arab frock was no novel thing to the Tajourah people, and a few days’ journey through the thorny FRIENDLY NATIVES. 407 jungle, and a few nights’ repose upon the ground, soon took the respectability out of it, and I was as ragged as any lover of freedom, or of nature, would ever desire to be. My broad-brimmed hat was considered a great curiosity, and greasy heads of males and females, would frequently try it on to see how it would fit. One of the old women too, pulled on my boots, the tops of which scarcely came up to the bottom of her skin petticoat. 490 CAPABILITIES OF THE DANKALLI. any other people, murder is considered by them to be highly honourable. Every fresh assassination is rewarded by an additional personal ornament, and the destruction of a sleeping guest, or of a fighting foe, contribute alike to the credit and reputation of the brave. The well dissembled bearing by which they lure the most suspicious into a fatal confidence, and the firm bravery with which they attack a more powerful enemy, can only be referred to the operation of mental powers of the very first order, and, according to my own ideas of the nature of man, they present the extreme of moral degradation that the caste to which they belong can fall into. I am not a willing evidence against a people among whom I spent some not unpleasant days, and received much instruction from the opportu- nities afforded me of studying their character, and the circumstances under which they are placed, and which convinced me that, if properly educated — and directed, they would take a very high rank among civilized nations. I feel assured that in a more favourable situation, and under another social economy, those intellectual capabilities now only developed in evil, would fast progress to the most enlightened civilization. I must be allowed, in justice, to notice the honesty and good faith that marked the care of the boxes and packages I found at Enrrur. The interference of the Tajourah people in that matter does not affect the principle I contend for, THEIR QUICK PERCEPTION. 491 they being, as are all inhabitants of the towns on the sea-coast of Adal, descended from Abyssinian mothers, and not of the pure Affah blood. This act of trustworthiness, where great temptation existed, may be only singular, from the few oppor- tunities the Dankalli have of exercising their natural good qualities. | I have, also, made no mention that several times during my journey attempts were made by the Dankalli to teach me the game of gubertah, something similar to our backgammon, played with dry camels’ dung, and a number of holes in the ground. ‘These attempts failed entirely, through my want of capacity, whilst any little trick of legerde- main, with which I sometimes amused them, was soon learnt, and in many instances they themselves detected the manner in which the trick was performed. One instance of this quickness of perception struck me particularly. It was a game I showed to them, in which seven small stones represented two thieves and five horses, the decep- tion in which consists of picking up one of the representatives alternately with each hand, yet at the conclusion to shew the horses and thieves still in the unequal numbers of two and five in either hand. ‘This, after a little observation, was per- formed by several of my companions, and I recorded it among many other evidences of what their Circassian physiognomy betokened, a much higher mental capability than the conceited Arab, 492 THEIR PROBABLE ORIGIN. and as superior as ourselves to their negro neigh- bours the Shankalli. These three very different people, represent three grades of intellectual power, which may be expressed as genius, cunning, and simplicity, of which the Dankalli constitute the type of the superior rank. When I reflect upon the striking contrast exhibited in the very different characters of the Dankalli and Shankalli people, the pressure from without of observed facts incline me to a system of mankind-lore different entirely from any yet advanced, but which it would. be presumption in me to put forward, until increasing years and further observation give weight to the opinions of one who at present is merely an humble, but zealous, inquirer after truth. Adapting myself therefore, as much as possible to the generally received ideas upon the national divisions of man at an early. period, I am led to suppose that the Dankalli are the remains of a once great and powerful people, the vices of whom have outlived the period of their decline as a nation, and now characterize their descendants in a situation where they are reduced to a state of nature corresponding, except in these resulting consequences of previous civilization, to that of the real child of unculfivated nature, the happy, contented, good-natured Shankalli. END OF VOL. I. Macintosh, Printer, Great New Street, London. pea . Ad cs v ee i bg & rat _ 44 ia. ¥ We) - HEHE CALIF ACAD OF SCIENCES LIBRARY BEL AMAL Il PUL e Lee 3 1853 00015 SETS 4 Sewees. ——_ troy recente a Nistasatedales See oymscaerancht et omen ~ s naebiaen tenet