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IN THE YEARS 1780, 81, 82, 83, 84 AND 85.

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF M. LE VAILLANT,

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2UlHOR'’S ‘PREFACE.

. YATURALISTS have thought proper
to eftablifh relations between the
anatomy of animals and that of man, and -
to trace out the former from the latter.
By means of this arrangement, underftood
only by connoifleurs, thofe parts on which
a bird refts all its weight are called its toes;
that part which rifes more or le{s perpendi-
cularly, inftead of being called a leg ac-
cording to the common idea, is named a
foot; the latter having the heel above it,
is immediately followed by the leg, which
generally paffes for the thagh; and, in fhort,
this laft part, which in the living bird is
{carcely diftinguifhable, is concealed, and,
-as one may fay, forms a part of the body
itfelf. Hence we may conclude, that the
foot of a heron, for example, is as large as
its whole body : an aflertion which would
appear ridiculous and abfurd to thofe not
Vor. I. b ; 4 pre-

Lad

previoully informed, that this methodical
diftribution is adopted by all the literati.
It is therefore plain that a bird does not
walk on its feet and talons, but on its claws.
This explanation I have thought neceflary,
in order that I may be better underftood,
both in the relation of my voyages, and
that more extenfive work to which it is
only, in fome meafure, an introduction.
Should I have occafion to {peak after this
arrangement of my acquifitions in quadru-
pedes, birds, &c. obliged to make ufe of
the terms and meafures eftablifhed by
ornithologifts, people who are not natural-
ifts, and who may deign to read my work,
would certainly find errors and obfcurity _
in three-fourths of my defcriptions, did I
not give them this key, which is indifpen-
fably neceflary to whoever may, for the
firft time, caft their eyes over this part of
natural hiflory.

I can readily forgive the authors of thofe
voluminous works, and the immenfe
compilations in which old books are laid |
under contribution, which are ftuffed with
long quotations, and where the dreams of
the imagination and ignorance are prefent-

ed

{ vii ]

ed as immutable truths, merely becaufe
they are ancient. But whena writer, feized
with a mania for a certain {cience, has not
in himfelf fufficient refources to extend its
progrefs ; when, immured in his cabinet, he
pretends to eftablifh principles and dictate
laws; when he proititutes the valuable
gifts of genius to propagate old errors, and
to cover, with the graces of elocution, lies’
received as truths by our forefathers ; how-
ever he may difguife, twift, or appropri-
ate them, to himfelf, I cannot forgive him
whilft he thus evidently adorns himfelf
with the fpoils of others, whatever trouble
he may have taken to arrange the different
patches. |

Fully refolved tofpeak only of what I have
feen or done, I fhall introduce nothing
into this work which is not my own; and
on this account I fhall certainly not be re-
proached for the faults of thofe who pre-
ceded me.

If in fome places of my relation obfer~
vations be found diametrically oppofite to
thofe of other travellers, I fhall not go fo far
as to affert that they have been deceived: I
mean to depreciate no one; I choofe rather

| b2- Ph to

fo: vole J

to fuppofe, on certain articles, that differ-
ence of time, or their being feen under
different points of view, may have pro-
duced differences alfo in their relations —
and refults; they then become only errors
or illufions, of the fame nature as an op-
tical deception,

Refpecting objects, however, which, hav-
ing been too flightly obferved, disfigure
the truth effentially, my opinion (though I
wifh it not to be univerfally adopted) will
never give way when I am certain of facts,
and advance nothing but what is f{upported
by proofs.

It is not above a century ago thata tafte
for travelling has prevailed in Europe. |
The French above all, more than any other
people happy in their country, and at-.
tached to their native foil, quitted it with
reluctance, and confidered the abfence of
a month as a kind of banifhment; they
were contented with waiting for, and ea-
gerly fwallowing, the ridiculous ftories pub-
lifhed by daring impoftors refpecting re-
mote nations, and they amufed themfelves
withaccountsof their wonderful difcoveries
and incredible adventures. The exagger-

4, ating

[ ix ] |
ating writer bargained, if I may fay fo,
with the public credulity, and thought him-
felf well recompenfed if he found only
one-half of the bombaft and the wonder-

ful contained in his work exploded. The °

{ciences wandered in the darknefs of un-
certainty, a and natural hiftory was not even
in its infancy.

By little and little the genius of difec.
veries extended her wings, and the letters
and the arts have given place to the {ci-
ences. A paflion for travelling is awakened;
that defire, ftill more infatiable, of acquir-
ing knowledge, and comparing the objects
of it, has increafed in proportion to the
wonders produced 'by it: the more dan-
gers have been removed, the more men
have pafled their ancient bounds; and what
formerly appeared an infurmountable ob-

ftacle, at prefent is only a puerile excufe,

a fhameful evafion to conceal one’s weak-
nefs and timidity. |

Being educated more than any other
perfon in quite different principles, I al-
_ ways entertained a moft ardent defire for

travelling, which I endeavoured to reprefs;

but it was only by yielding to its tranf-

ports, ©

Bhan see
ports, that I was able to moderate its vios
lence. |

I croffed the feas, as I wifhed to furvey
other men, other productions, and other
climates; I penetrated into fome of the
unknown defarts of Africa ; and I may fay
that I conquered a {mall portion of the
earth. |

I had no wifh to acquire reputation; I
was con{cious of no merit that could en-
title me to it, and I employed, my time
only in pleafure.

As my friends and my family were of
Opinion that an account of my travels,
and fome details refpecting my difcoveries
in natural hiftory, might be of utility,
I have given them this account and thefe
details, fuch as they are, claiming to my=
felf on this account no other merit than
that of complaifance, and renouncing every |
kind of pretenfion to literature, the bur-
den of which I could not fupport.

It may perhaps be thought ftrange, that
to give an account of travels lately un-
dertaken into Africa I have been obliged
to return to the paft, and to conduct my
readers to the firft fleps of my infancy

in

[ x ]

in South America. To explain this, I muft
obferve, that I thought it would not be
improper to juftify, by the commencement
of my life, my manner of feeing, think-
ing, and acting, which always will be
agreeable to the tafte of the climate, and
which, judged perhaps with feverity, would
not fail to difpleafe thofe obftinate minds
who can never fuffer their prejudices to
be deftroyed; or principles and cuftoms
hitherto received to be attacked, without
being out of temper. But in whatever
manner my freedom in exprefling my
thoughts, and even in pretending to cor-
rect the errors of genius, may be confider-
ed, I think it of importance to let them
know, that no private hatred, no envy,
and no fecret difpleafure, can overbalance
in my mind my regard to truth, which I
cherifh above all things, and to which I
have facrificed, upon more than one occa-
fion, even my vanity.

At the end of this work I fhall prefent
the lovers of natural hiftory with a general
de{cription of all the individuals, quadru-
pedes and birds, which I procured in my
excurfions, and have now in my poflef-

fion.

eee
fion. Thofe animals, of which accounts
have been never before given, or which
have been hitherto unknown, will be ac-
companied with coloured engravings, re-
prefenting feveral new genera, and confider-
able varieties in the {pecies. Though a de-
{cription and figure of the giraffe have
been given after fome authors, this has
not prevented me from giving new ones.
What has been hitherto faid refpecting this
animal, and the figures which have been
engraved of it, have no refemblance to
the original in my cabinet, or to what I
have obferved of its manners in its native

country.

IN TRO-

INTRODUCTION.

HAT part of Guiana, belonging to

the Dutch, which is under the go-
vernment of the Weft-India Company, is
perhaps the leaft known to naturalifts,
though of all South America itis that, with-
out doubt, which prefents the moft curious
and extraordinary produCtions of every kind.
Situated under the fcorching climate of the
torrid zone, five degrees north of the line,
this country, ftill enveloped by the cruft of
time, conceals, if I may fo exprefs it, the
focus where nature forms her exceptions to
thofe general rules which fhe feems to have
eftablifhed. Extending along the coaft
about an hundred leagues, its breadth is
almoft unlimited. Here the river Surinam
rolls its majeftic ftream: and upon its left
bank, three miles from the fea, rifes Parama-
ribo, the principal place of this vaft colony ;
thefpot wherel was born, and the fceneof my
| B infant

2 INTRODUCTION, .
infant years. Educated by enlightened pa-
rents, who endeavoured to procure thofe va-
duable and interefling objets which are dif-
perfed throughout the country, I had continu-
ally before my eyes the fruits of their labour,
and I enjoyed at my eafe the whole of their
curious collection. From my earlieft years, ©
thefe tender parents, who could not be a mo-
ment without me, and who by their tafte
were often expofed to diftant journeys, and
to be long abfent at the extremities of the co-
lony, carried me along with them, making
me a fharer in their travels, their fatigues,
and their amufements. My firft years were
thus fpent in the defarts, and I was born al-
moft a favase. When reafon, which in warm
climates always precedes age, began to dawn
in my mind, my tafte was not long in dil-
playing itfelf, and my parents did every
thing in their power to affift the firft efforts
of my curiofity.. Under fuch excellent in-
ftru€tors I every day tafted new pleafures:
I heard them difcourfe in a manner fuited
to my capacity on the objets which they
had acquired, and on thofe which they hop-
ed to procure in future. By thefe means an

psi abundance

MT RO Dw eT To Nn; 3
abundance of ideas and relations was trea-
fured up in my mind—at firft, in a confufed
manner, | muft own; but gradually with
more order and method. Nature, therefore,
was my earlieft inflructor, becaufe it was
towards her that my views were firft di-
rected:

Soon after, a defire of making acquifitions,
and a fpirit of imitation, added impetuofity,
and I may fay impatience, to my amufing
parfuits. Every thing feemed to whifper
to my felf-love that | alfo fhould attempt to
form a cabinet of natural hiftory. Suffer-
ing myfelf, therefore, to be led away by this
feducing idea, without lofs of time, I traiter-
oufly declared war againft the weakeft ani-
mals, and began to fearch for caterpillars,
butterflies, beetles, and in a word for infects
of every kind.

When people labour for themfelves, they
may, with conlined means, and rude and un~
cultivated talents, form an indifferent work.
but in my opinion they will always fucceed
well, when they {pare neither time, care, nor
attention; and when they employ all their
taients and abilities: With fucha difpofition,

B 2 the

7 etme pe

4 INT R OD Wie Ta Dm

the almoft certain fign of fuccefs, I beheld my
pretty colleGtion of infects increafe daily un-
der my hands. I fet the higheft value up-
on it, and efteemed it beyond meafure. As
I had been the fole creator of it, the reader
may ealily guefs how much fuperior I con-
fidered it to that of my parents. Pride, which
is blind, makes the mafterpieces of folly and
genius march hand in hand.

Entirely occupied with my enjoyments,
I had never yet perceived that fome obftacle
always occurs to prevent the fucceds of every
enterprize.

In one of our excurfions we had killed a
female ape, of that fpecies which in the
country are called Badcons. As fhe carried
on her back a young one, which had not
been wounded, we took them both along
with us; and, when we returned to the plan-
tation, my ape had not quitted the fhoul-
ders of its mother. It clung fo clofely to
them, that I was obliged to have the aflift-
ance of a negro to difengage it ; but {earcely
was it feparated from her, when, like a bird,
it darted upon a wooden block that ftood
near, covered with my father’s peruke, which

it

INTRODUCTION. g
it embraced with its four paws, and it could
not abfolutely be compelled to quit its pofi-
tion. Deceived by its inftin@, it fill ima-
-gined itfelf to be on the back of its mother,
and under her protection. As it feemed per-
fectly at eafe on the peruke, I refolved to fui-
fer it to remain, and to feed it there with
goats milk. It continued in its error for
three weeks; but after that period emanci~
pating itfelf from its own authority, it quit-
ted the foftering peruke, and by its amufing
tricks became the friend and the favourite
of the’ whole family.

I had, however, without fufpecting it, in-
troduced the wolf among my flocks. One
morning, on entering my chamber, the door
of which I had been fo imprudent as to leave
open, I beheld my unworthy pupil making
a hearty breakfaft on my noble colleéction.
In the firft tranfports of my paiflion I refoly-
ed to ftrangle it in my arms; but rage and
fury foon gave place to pity, when I perceiv-
ed that its voracioufnefs had expofed it to the
moft cruel punifhment. In eating the bee-
tles it had fwallowed fome of the pins upon
which they were fixed; and, though it made

Big a thoulang

6 INTRODUCTION.

a thoufand efforts to throw them up, all its
exertions were in vain. ‘The torture which
it fuffered made me forget the devaftation
it had occafioned ; I thought only of afford-
ing it relief: but neither my tears, nor all the
art of my father’s flaves, whom I called from
all quarters with loud cries, were able to pre-
ferve its life. Thisaccident difconcerted meve-
ry much, but it did not difcourage me: I foon
gave myfelf up to new refearches ; and, not
contented with one treafure, | wifhed to unite
feveral. By a natural progreflion I turned
my attention towards birds. As our flaves did
not fupply me with a fufficient number, I
armed mylelf with a tube*, and an Indian
bow: in a fhort fpace of time I could ufe
them with much dexterity. I {pent whole
days in watching; in a word, I became akeen
fportfman. It was then obferved, and I
myfelf was fenfible of it, that this tafte
was changed into a violent paflion, which
difturbed even my hours of repofe, and to
which years have ftill added ftrength.

* Sarbacanne—a kind of tube, through which fmall
darts are blown with the mouth.

some

LNERQDUGCFION #7

Some of my friends have accufed me of
coolnefs and infenfibility; and a greater
number of them have confidered the fingu-
lar journeys I afterwards undertook as raih
enterprizes. “The former I readily forgive;
to the latter I fhall make no reply: thafe,
however, who give themfelves the leaft trou-
ble to review the firft purfuits of my infan-
cy, will be lefs furprifed at this appearance
of originality ; and will eafily perceive that
my education, while it accounts for the
caufe of it, pleads alfo its excufe.

Some time after, my parents, who had
fixed the period of their departure for Eu-
rope, and who fought no other happinefs
than that of being united to their family and
friends, having fettled their affairs, | embark-
ed with them in a fhip called the Catherine,
and, on the 4th of April1763, fet fail for
Holland. In the joy of my heart I partook,
by anticipitation, of all thofe pleafures and
amufements which my parents propofed to
enjoy during the paflage. A curiofity, very
natural at. my age, added to my tran{fports :
but this agitation, or rather delirium, did
not render me infenfible to regret. In

B 4 fo

8 rT RODU< Tram,

fo fhort a fpace of time I could not become
ungrateful, and without emotion lofe fight
of that beneficent country in which I firft
drew breath. I often caft a fond look on
thofe happy fhores, which were ftill becoming
more and more diftant. In proportion as they
receded from me, and as wafted by the winds
approached the frozen climates of the north,
a difmal fadnefs threw a gloom over my
imagination, and diffipated my conjectures
concerning the future. |

After a dangerous and difagreeable ltafee
we caft anchor in the Texel, about nine or
ten in the morning, on the 12th of July
following.

Being at length arrived in Europe, every
thing I faw appeared fo new to me—I fhew-
ed fo much impatience, haraffed people
with fo many queftions, and every objec
that prefented itfelf to my view feemed fo

that I myfelf was an object
of aftonifhment to all thofe who were around
me. My importunities, however, did not
always raife the laugh againft me; and I
made an ample return, by pertinent nemarks
‘on America, for the information which the
people

INTRODUCTION. 9

people of Europe had = condefcenfion to
give me.

After {pending fome time in Holland we
repaired to France, to the city where my fa- .
ther was born, and where he fettled in the
bofom of his family. Here I had a new op-
portunity of indulging my tafte, in the cabi-
net of Mr. Bécceur, which, for the ornitho-
logy of Europe, contains the moft numerous
and beft preferved collection I have ever met
with.

In Surinam I had followed a plan, with
re{pect to birds, which fucceeded very well,
_ but which fpoke little to the imagination, and
{till lefs to the eyes. ‘The only method I
knew, was to preferve their fkins by putting
them between the leaves of large books ; but
here a quite different {fpeCtacle awakened all
my fenfes. Befides the merit of preferva-
tion, it was neceflary to reftore their pro-
per forms. Thefe two effential points embar-
_ raffled me much: I refolved to make them
a peculiar ftudy; and to thefe I devoted my
whole attention. During a refidence of two
years in Germany, and of feven in Lorraine
and Alface, I made prodigious havoc among

: the

oe

10 INTRODUCTION.
the feathered tribe. To the diftinGion of
fpecies I withed to join alfo a thorough know-
ledge of their manners; and I was never per-
fectly fatisfied with my excurfions, but when
1 was able to furprife the male and the fe-
male in fuch a fituation as no longer permit-
ted me to doubt of their {ex. I-have often
{pent whole weeks in watching, to diftinguith
the {pecies of birds, before I could procure a
pair. |
In the {pace of cight or nine years, there-
fore, by care and labour, and after many at-
tempts and much devaftation, I was able
not only to give to thele animals, fo tender
and delicate, their proper forms; but alfo to
keep them in that pure and found flate of pre-
fervation, which makes all the merit of my
collection. By being habituated to live with
-them in the fields, in the woods, and in their
-moft fecret retreats, | have learned alfo te
-diftinguifh the fexes in the moft invariable
manner ; a divining art, if | may ufe the ex-
preflion, which I do not pretend to contider
as a great merit, but which a very {mall
number :of,ornithologiits have ‘acquired.
How often have I feen in cabinets, curious
| enough

@NTRODUCTION.
enough in other refpects, fometimes forced
feparations, fometimes monftrous and unna-
tural alliances! Here, placed as male and
female, two beings that had never met toge-
ther; and there, a male and a female clafled
as two different fpecies, &c.

In this interefting part of natural hiftory
{ more and more acquired knowledge ; but
I confefs that, inftead of being fatisfied, it
only proved to me the infufficiency of my
own firength. A more extenfive field was,
however, about to be difplayed before me:
opportunity feemed to call me at a diftance,
and to invite me to put off the time no
Pot er, |; 5 ay
In the courfe of the year 1777, a favoura-
ble circumftance having conduted me to
Paris, like every other ftranger who arrives
for the firft time in that capital, I paid my
tribute of admiration to the cabinets of the
curious, and of men of letters. I was charm-
ed with the beauty and variety of the objects
which they contained, and with the prodi-
gious number of individuals of every {pecies,
which, like a forced contribution, had come
| i om

12 INTRODUCTION.

from the four quarters of the world to be
claffed methodically, as far as is poffible, in
a fpace always unluckily too confined. Du-
ring a refidence of three years, I faw, ftudi-
~ ed, and made myfelf acquainted with all the
moft celebrated cabinets; but their fuperb
colle€tions foon made me uneafv: they left
a vacuum in my mind which nothing could
fill up. I no longer beheld, in thefe, affem-
blagesof foreign fpoils, but general magazines,
where diiferent beings, ranged without
choice, and without tafte, were buried in
profound fleep for fcience. Nothing gave
me any precife information refpecting their
manners, their cuftoms, and their habitudes,
which are things the moft effential to be
known. This was the ftudy which had en-
gaged the greateft fhare of my attention in
my youth. Ihad read, it is true, different
works upon natural hiftory, but fled with
contradictions fo difgufling, that the tafte
which is not yet formed muft lefe much by
perufing them. Above all, I had fudied,
with the utmoft avidity, thofe immortal mat-
terpieces, confecrated for the ufe of pofte-

4 rity

ERTRODUCTION. 33

rity by one of the greateft geniufes who
have followed the fame purfuits. I every
day burnt frefh incenfe at the feet of his
ftatue: but the magic of his eloquence did
not feduce me fo far as to make me admire
the flights of his imagination ; and I could
not pardon in the philofopher the exaggera-
tions of the poet.

Befides, and above all, [ was continually —
turning my thoughts towards thofe parts of
the globe which, having never been explor-
ed, might, by affording new knowledge, help
to retify that already acquired. I contider-
ed as fupremely happy the mortal who
fhould -have the courage to feek it at the
fource; and in this refpect the interior parts
of Africa appeared to mea Peru. It was a
country as yet untouched for the naturalift.
Full of thefe ideas, I perfuaded myfelf that
the ardor of zeal might make up for want cof
genius; and that, by being an accurate ob-
ferver, one might become a great enough
writer. My enthufiafm fuggefted to me
that I was the privileged perfon for whom.
this enterprize was referved. I readily lift-

ened

14 In-F RODUC TIGN.:

ened to its feducing dictates, and from that
moment I devoted myfelf to it. Neither
the ties of affection, nor thofe of friendfhip,
were capable of diverting me from my pur-
pofe. I communicated my intention to no
one; and, blind to every obftacle, I quitted
Paris on the 17th of July 178.

INTO. THE

Ried Ry lO; RP AOR. FT to

VOYAGE,.TO,.THE CAPE.

WMPATIENT to carry my intended
nt plan into execution, I repaired to Hol-
land, where I vifited the principal cities of
that republic, and took a view of their curi-
ofities. When I arrived at Amfterdam, I
found treafures, of which I had before en-
tertained no idea. IT was received with the
utmoft politenefs by all the literati, and I
had free accefs to every cabinet. But what
principally excited my admiration was that of
Mr. Temminck, treafurer to the Eaft-India
Company. In that beautiful colieG@ion I ob-=
ferved a multitude of valuable obje@s which

| I had

a

16 PRAVEDS (TACO

I had never feen in France. Every thing
in it appeared to me extremely rare, and
to be in a ftate of the higheft preferva-
tion. His noble place for breeding birds

—alfo exhibited, in an admirable feries, a dou-

ble view of nature and art, united to over-
come the effects of climate. There the en-
chanted eye may admire alive the moft
beautiful and leaft known individuals of
every {pecies; and there one may fee,’ by
the afliduous care beftowed upon them, birds
the moft diftant and the moft remote from
one another multiply and propagate, as if
they lived in their native countries. This
fight, I confefs, ftill ferved to redouble my
ardor; and completely fortified me againft
every obftacle, and againft all thofe dangers
which I had refolved to encounter.

Having foon formed an intimate friend-
fhip with Mr. Temminck, he fhewed me
every mark of attention and kindnefs, As
he had it in his power, more than any one
elfe, to favour my defign, I did not hefitate
to commumicate it to him. Being fo con-
genial with his own purfuits, he highly ap-
proved of it; and pointed out thofe means

which

AFR LCA. 17
which I ought to purfue in order to fucceed.
He himfelf fpared neither care nor labour.
I was happy enough to obtain permiffion to —
take a paflage for the Cape in a veflel belong-
ing to the Eaft-India Company. The time of
my departure was fixed: and I procured from
my refpectable friend very warm recommend-
ations; without which, by a fingular fatality,
as will be feen hereafter, I fhould have been
infallibly expofed to the moft cruel embarrafi-
ment.

Matters being thus far fettled, I employed
myfelf, without remiffion, in making the ne-
ceflary preparations for this grand enterprize.
When I had procured every thing that I
thought likely to be of ufe to me in the inte-
rior parts of Africa, I took leave of my friends,
and of Europe; and, fetting out in a boat which
came to receive me, was conduéted to the
Texel aboard of the He/d-Woltemaade*, a vef-
fel deftined for Ceylon, but which was to
touch at the Cape of Good Hope. The wind
being unfavourablefor quitting the Texel, we
were under the neceflity of waiting eight days,

_ * The Captain’s name was S——- V——.

Cc | During

18 FRAV Eas. aN
During that interval, I learned that our veflel
was an ex-voto of the Eaft-India Company, in
commemoration of a gallant ation performed
by an inhabitant of the Cape, named Wo/te-
maade, who during a dreadful ftorm had been
able, with the affiftance of his horfe, to fave
fourteen feamen belonging to a veflel thip-
wrecked in Table Bay; but that he himfelf,
the victim of his generous efforts, had perifhed
in his laft attempt, owing to his own fatigue,
and that of his horfe, added to the weight of
the unfortunate men who crowded upon him,
from a dread that the veflel might fink before
he could be again able to return. A particu-
lar account of this very affecting cataftrophe
may be feen in Dr. Sparmann’s Voyage to
the Cape.

‘the wind at length becoming favourable,
we unmoored, at eleven o'clock in the morn-
ing, on the 19th of December 1781, the
very day before the Englith commenced hofti-
lities againft the Dutch. Had we remained
twenty-four hours longer, the Company would
not have permitted us to depart; which would
have difconcerted me very unfeafonably, and
might have perhaps ruined my plan, and even

4 | ast

my hopes: Cloudy weather and a thick fog
enabled us to pafs through the Channel without
being obferved by the Englifh, and we gained
the open fea, cleavirig the waves in perfect fe-
curity, without ever fufpeCing that the flames
of war had burft forth in every quarter around
us. Sailing fometimes at a quick, and fome-
times at a flow rate, we followed the Mercury,
another veffel belonging to the Company,
‘which was purfuing the fame courfe, and
~ which was commanded by our commodore.
Thus far nothing remarkable occurred in our
voyage; but we were foon about to feel a part
of the general convulfion. As I knew that
In a paflage of three, four, and perhaps fix
months, I fhould experience many tedious and
dull moments, I took the precaution of fur-
nifhine myfelf with a few books before my
departure. “Among my travels, and works on
natural hiftory, I had the relation of M. Dela
Caille, which for amufement I read in prefer-
ence to any other; but I remember that, hav-
ing one day fallen upon a paffage very anti-
philanthropic, and full of fanaticifm, limmedi-
ately threw down the book in a paflion, with
a refolution of perufing it no longer. The

Gra. pailage

20 TRAVEL & a8
pallegen is as follows: ‘ The cuftom of going

out to hunt runaway negroes, and thofe
who turn plunderers, as we hunt favage
animals, has nothing in it that can offend
the delicacy of an European. The moment
when men, ufefulin fociety, abandon their
fituations, either from a {pirit of libertinifm
or of avarice, they degrade themfelves be~
*¢ low brutes, and deferve the moft rigorous
“ treatment.” Reflecting afterwards on the
humane, mild, and liberal character, which
has every where been beftowed upon this
learned man, I again took up his book, and
found theferefleGtions: “Laying prejudiceafide,
*© which of the two is preferable—he who cul-

74
€¢
é
ge
cé

6

** tivates the arts, and invents exceptions con-
** trary to the rules of nature; or he who,
** contented with the neceflaries of life, regu-
lates his conduct according to the max-
“* ims of ftri&t and fcrupulous juftice?” I then
recollected that the abbé De la Caille had been
{natched from letters and the fciences, before
he had time to put the laft hand to his Journal ;
and I imputed to the barbarous ignorance of
the editor that infamous paragraph, which
could in no manner have fallen from the pen

of

Auk Rugs CAs a1
of a clergyman, a philofopher, and a man of
letters.

On the firft of February 1781, being three
degrees north of the line, we were informed
at break of day that a fail was feen in the ho- |
rizon, At that time the Mercury was a great
way ahead out of fight, and we were perfect-
ly becalmed. In vain had we recourfe to our
{py-glafles; nor could we diftinguifh, until
nine in the morning, that it was only a veffel
of {mall fize. Some believed it to be French.
others maintained that it was Englifh: each
reafoned according to his own manner, and
formed various conjectures, till its nearer ap-
proach fhould difcover the truth. Some hours
after we perceived that it was towed along by
two boats, and that it was advancing towards
us by the help of oars. As we then concluded
that it was a veflel in diftrefs, approaching
to’ beg afliftance, we fuffered it to come up to
us without interruption. About three in the
afternoon, finding it clofe to us, we difplayed
our colours, and fired a gun ; but we were very
much furprifed to receive a fhot in our poop,
which was followed by a whole broadfide:
the privateer at the fame time hoifted the

C 3 Englifh

22 TRAVELS «EN

Englith flag. In vain fhould I attempt to de-
{cribe the ftupefaction and aftonifhment of the
whole crew upon this unforefeen event, In
the veflel there was not perhaps one man who
had ever been inan ation... The captain and
the officers, accuftomed to purfue their voy-
age in profound peace, had never commanded
in the like circumf{tances; one may therefore
eafily imagine what muift have been the con-
fternation of thefe poor people, unexpectedly
attacked in this manner, and without having
time to make any preparation, or even to bar-
ricade the quarter deck. ‘Terror, and above
all, confufion, were painted on their counte-
nances. ‘The officers bawled out as loud as
they could; while the foldiers, all recruits,
none of whom had ever loaded a mufket,
knew not what to anfwer, or whom to obey;
in a word, at feven in the evening we had not
waited a fingle grain of powder. ‘The priva-
teer, in the mean time, kept up a conftant
fire; and, ordering us to ftrike, threatened to
fink us if we carried our refiftance any further,
Our captain, in a convulfive agitation, conti-
nually cried out that he had not power to fur-
render at difcretion ; and that it would be ne-

ceflary

AP ORC A, 23

ceflary for that purpofe to addrefs the Mercury,
the captain of which was his commodore. The
poor man had entirely loft his fenfes.
_ AA freth breeze, as if by a miracle, at length
{pringing up, the Mercury bore up to us, and
afked our captain why he did not fire. The
latter replied that he waited for the orders of
his fuperior officer, and that it was the com-
modore’s bufinefs to give the fignal for bat-
tle; an excufe altogether ridiculous from the
mouth of a /eaman, attacked by a {mall vetlel
that mounted fixteen eight pounders, while
he had thirty-two of a larger bore, feveral {wi-
vels, and three hundred men befides the fhip’s
company.

The Mercury beginning to fire, we did the
fame; and, though the former was between us
and the Enelifh, we ftill continued to difcharge
our broadfides. Our people, favoured by this
diforder, had all got intoxicated: fome ran
backwards and forwards, without knowing
whither they went; fome ftaggered and joftled
againft each other ; while others cried, wept,
and {wore, or went to conceal themfelves in
fome fecret corner. The chaplain himfelf,
with a view no doubt to roufe his courage, was

‘ G 4 not

24 TRAVELS :IN
not afraid of proceeding to the fame excefs,
I faw him with a lanthorn in his hand go down
to the fore magazine, which contained upwards
of ten tons of gunpowder deflined for Cey-
lon, and without the leaft precaution bring
up a fufficiency to make cartridges; for it is
to be remarked that none were ready prepared,
nor was there ever a thought entertained of
making fuch a provifion.

After baffling all our manceuvres, and pierc-
ing us on all fides, the privateer bore away
from us about eleven at night; and, though it
foon got to a great diftance, we ftill continued
our fire. What a glorious moment for pol-
troons! How they then moved about with
much alertnefs, and trod the deck with a firm
ftep ; raifing their voices, and challenging the
enemy whom they no longer heard! Their
fear however was not as yet allayed, and no
one ventured to retire to reft. Imitating the
example fet me, I paffled the whole night in
the open air, ftretched out upon a bag between
two rows of mufkets; but I was every mo-
ment difturbed by the calling out of the fenti-
nels, who were continually haunted by the
noife of the Englifh cannon: one may thence

eafily

| APRIC A, a5
eafily form an idea of the diforder which pre-
vailed during this affair. Next morning, when
the gunners went to clean the guns, they found
foie of them filled to the mouth, and contain-~
ing three charges, one above another, with as
many bullets. In feveral of the mufkets the
balls were undermoft: and lam fully perfuaded |
that, without the affiftance of the Mercury, we
fhould have been taken; luckily however we
efcaped, after being heartily frightened. No-
thing indeed but the phantom Terror couid
have thrown officers into fuch a confternation,
that they fuffered themfelves to be cannonaded
for four hours without daring to return a fingle
fhot. ‘The Englith certainly muft have be-
lieved that we had no guns, or that thofe which
they faw were only of wood. The leaft refift-
ance on our part would have made them foon
fheer off, and without doubt they would have
retired fafter than they approached.

I cannot finifh this fketch, which is truly
worthy of the humorous pencil of Calot,
without relating one circumftance more, which
_ provokes a {mile even yet whilft | am writing.
Running up and down from the poop to the
- quarter deck, and from the quarter deck to”
the

26 ERAVELS -28
the cabin (for, bearing no commiffion in the
fhip, I had neither to give nor receive orders),
¥ obferved the keeper of the Company’s papers
faithfully feated near the inyfterious box, and
ready to heave it out at the window on the
flighteft appearance of danger. ‘This man at
leaft was at his ftation, but terror had fixed him
there much more than duty. The former had
got entire pofleflion of his fenfes: ‘* Vaillant,”
cried he, “ Vaillant, it is all over! Alas, my
** friend, we are ruined, we are undone!” [
did every thing in my power to raife his {pi-
rits, and to induce him to change his aur, that
he might aflume another countenance. In the
mean time a bullet came whizzing through
the cabin, with a horrid noife; and the poor
man fell down motionlefs, like an unwieldy
mafs. Ignorant of the caufe, I imagined he
was dead ; but by little and little he raifed him-
felf up, fetching feveral heavy fighs from the
bottom of his breaft.,, At this part of the fcene,
which was truly affecting, I could no longer
keep my gravity, and I retired to give free
vent to loud burfts of laughter.
Was it not fhameful that men, formed by
their condition, their age, and their experience,
to

AR re A. 27

to give examples of bravery and honour,
fhould fail in fo diferaceful a manner, at a time
when in a minute only they might have diffi-
pated every alarm, and made the paltry pri-
vateer which harafled us appear as nothing,
whilft, on the contrary, children {carcely old
enough to haul in a cable, fhewed a thoufand
proofs of zeal, firmnefs, and intrepidity? What
chiefly raifed my indignation, and yet diverted
me at the fame time, was, that next morn-
ing they were fully perfuaded they had funk
the Englifh veffel, as 1t had difappeared. 1
could not without murmuring hear the reci-—
procal compliments they paid one another on
account of the gallant manner in which they
had defended their veflel the evening before.
_As for me, being firmly perfuaded that the
enemy had not received one of our fhot, I
could not help fhewing a little pleafantry on
the occafion ; and telling the chief pilot, Van
Groenen, that he behaved worfe than any of
the reft during the action, and that he then
fhewed the greateft fhare of pride and vanity. ~
The failors laughed in their fleeves, and the
pilot perceived it; but the greater part of them
pot being able in confcience to ftand up in his

defence,

28 TRAVELS UN.

_defence, he was obliged to be contented with
the worthy teftimony of his own felf-love. To

crown the affair, Engelbregt, the furgeon, who

ei: BP

during the whole action had concealed himfelf

in the hold, was commiflioned, by virtue of
his office, to keep a journal of this glorious
engagement. I took the liberty of rallying the
writer, as I had done the reft; but it was out
of his power to be revenged, as I had the hap-
pinefs of being in good health. This however
was not the cafe with the pilot; he made himfelf
ample amends for my pleafantry by rendering
my fituation as uncomfortable as he could dur-
ing the remainder of the paflage: but luckily
it was not of long duration : and after this
fingular adventure we continued our voyage
very happily, as we had always a fair wind,
After a paflage of three months and ten days

we difcovered the mountains of the Cape,

which on account of the finenefs of the wea-
‘ther made at that time a beautiful appearance.
T took a view of them ; and the fame day, at
three in the afternoon, we caft anchor in Table

Bay.
The port-captain, Mr. Staring, immediately
game on board, and confirmed the accounts we
had

a

View of the Mountains atthe C ape «

= eee ee ee

|

View of the Mountains at the Cape of Good-Hope, covered with Clouds on the South East.

AFRICA. 29

had heard of a declaration of war, which the
colony had learned from a French frigate.
Next morning I went on fhore, and took the
earlieft opportunity of paying my refpedts to
thofe gentlemen to whom I had been recom-
mended, and of delivering my letters. I was
received with much politenefs, and even with —
diftinGiion. Mr. Boers the fifcal, and Mr.
Hacker, fhewed me every poffible mark of
friendfhip ; and I was fenfible that I was not
indebted for them to that ordinary politenefs,
which in other places. fubftitutes unmeaning
grimace for the noble defire of obliging one’s
fellow-creature, and which is only a perfidious
art employed to deceive with more facility the
credulous fincerity of a ftranger. They offered
me all thofe fervices which my recommenda-
tions, and their diftinguifhed rank, gave me
a title to expe. I depended upon them ;
for I knew that I had to do with Dutch-
men.

I was impatient to be acquainted with this
new country, to which I found myfelf tranf-
ported as if in a dream. Every thing prefented
itfelf to my view in the moft ftriking manner ;
and {already meafured with my eyes thofe im-

i“) menfe

30 thon VERS Ai oe
menfe defarts into which I was going to pene-
frates. "|

Cape Town is fituated on the declivity of the
Table and Lion Hills. It forms an amphi-
theatre, which extends as far as the borders of
the fea. The ftreets, though broad, are not
commodious, becaufe they are ill paved. The
_ houfes, which are almoft all built in an uniform
manner, are beautiful and fpacious; but they
are covered with reeds, to guard againft thofe
accidents which might be occafioned by heavy
‘roofs during the time of hurricanes. The in-
terior part of thefe houfes difplays no marks
of frivolous luxury; all the furniture is in 2
noble and fimple tafte: no tapeftries are ever
feen in them; a few paintings and mirrors form
their principal ornaments. ‘The entrance to
the city by the {fquare of the fort prefents a
noble view, efpecially as the greater part of the
fine edifices have been erected there. @n one
fide appears the Company’s garden, in its full
extent ; on the other the fountains, the {ftreams
of which How down from the Table Hill
through a fiffure, which is perceived from the
city and from the whole harbour. This water

is excellent, and furnifhes abundance for the
con-

AP RT CA, $i
eonfumption of the inhabitants, as well as for
_ fupplying fuch veflels as touch here.

The men appeared to me to be in general
well made, and the women to be pretty. I
was furprifed to fee the latter drefs with as
much attention to the minutix of elegance as
the ladies in France; but they have neither
their manners nor graces. As the children are
always fuckled by female flaves, the familiarity
which reigns between them has a great influ-
ence upon their manners and education. That
of the men is ftill more neglected; if we ex-
cept the children of the great, who are fent to
Europe to be inftrudted. At the Cape, there are
no other teachers of youth but writing-mafters.

Almoft all the ladies play on the harpfichord;
this is their fole accomplifhment. They love
finging, and are remarkably fond of dancing ;
on this account it is rare not to fee feveral balls
every week. The officers of the fhips which
touch here, and which lie fome time in the
roads, often afford them an opportunity of in-
dulging in this pleafure. Upon my arrival,
the governor ufed to give a public ball every

month, and the principal people of the town
followed his example,

[ was

92 TRAVELS IN

I was aftonifhed to find neither a coffees
houfe nor a tavern, in a place at which fo
many ftrangers arrive; but one may procure
lodgings in every private houfe. The ufual
charge for bed and board is a dollar a day;
which is dear enough, when we confider the
cheapnels of the produétions of. the country.
During my refidence here butchers meat was
exceedingly cheap. I have feen thirteen pounds
of mutton fold for about fixpence fterling, an
ox for twelve or fifteen rixdollars*, ten quar-
ters of corn for fourteen or fifteen, and fo in
proportion for other things. During the war |
the price of every commodity was raifed to an
exorbitant degree; and in the latter part of it
forty-five rixdollars were given for a wretched
bag of potatoes, and above two fhillingg fter-
ling for a fmall cabbage. ‘The charge for
board, however, was not increafed. "

Fith are very abundant at the Cape. Among
thofe moft efteemed, the principal are the roo=
man, a red fith found in the bay of Falfo; and
the d/epuzs, which has no feales, and which
is caught on the rocks bordering the fea; the

* A rixdollar is about three fhillings and nine pence
fterling.

freenbraafen,

AVR IC A 33

Jreenbraafen, the flompneus, and fome others.
Thefe excellent fith make a confpicuous figure
at every good table.. Oyfters are very rare
here, and none are found any where but in
the bay of Falfo. Eels however are fill more -
uncommon. Crayfifh I never faw; but the
people eat fea ears, which are called k/ephou~

fen.

To find game, one muft go a great many
leagues from the Cape. The moft common
kinds are the /feenbock, the duyker, the ree-
bock, the gryfbock, the bontebock, and all the
_ different fpecies of antelopes, concerning
which I fhall {peak more at length in my de-
{cription of quadrupedes. Hares, above all
that {mall fpecies called the down hare, are
found here in great abundance, but they have,
- not the flavour of ours.

_Partridges alfo of different kinds, fmaller or
larger, and more or lefs delicious than thofe of
Europe, are found here; but the quail and —
the {nipe do not differ from ours. ‘They are
never feen here but in their paflage.

_ Whatever the enthufiafts of the Cape may
fay, I am of opinion that our fruits tranfplanted
thither have greatly degenerated. The grapes

D alone

34 TRAVELS IN

alone appeared to me to be delicious ; ‘cherries
are {carce and bad; pears and apples are not
much better, and foon fpoil. The citrons,
however, and the oranges, efpecially that kind
called nareteyes, are excellent: the figs are de-
licate and wholefome ; but the {mall banana,
or pifang, has a bad tafte. Is it not aftonith-
ing that in fo fine a country, and under fo
pure a fky, if we except a few difmal bays,
no indigenous fruits are to be found? Afpa-
ragus and artichokes do not grow at the Cape,
but all the other produdtions of our kitchen-
gardens in Europe feem to be naturalized:
one might enjoy them the whole year, did
not the fouth-eaft wind, which prevails for
three months, dry the earth to fuch a degree
as to render it incapable of every kind of cul-
tivation ; it blows with fuch fury, that it is
necefflary, in order to preferve plants, to fur-
round all the beds of a garden with clofe pa-
lifades made of young elms. ‘The fame me=
thod is purfued with refpect to young trees ;
which, notwithftanding thefe precautions, ne-
ver fhoot forth branches on the windward
. fide; and always incline to the other, which
gives them a difmal appearance: in general,

it is very difficult to rear them,
I have

APR R-I CA: ne

{ have often been a witnefs to the ravages
occafioned by this wind. In the fpace of
twenty-four hours the beft ftocked gardens
appear as if dug up, and fwept. ‘This wind
continues from January to April at this ex-
tremity of Africa, and extends even a great
Way into the country. In the courfe of my
travels, it has fometimes overturned all my
carriages ; and no other alternative has been
left me but to tie them to large bufhes, to

“prevent them from being thrown topfy-
{urvy.

At the Cape, this wind is announced by a
{mall white cloud, which at firft attaches it-
felf to the fummit of the Table Hill, on
the fide next to the Devil’s Hill, The
air then begins to become cooler; by and by
the cloud increafes, and expands till it grows
fo large that it covers the whole top of the
mountain: it is then commonly faid that
the mountain has put on its peruke. The cloud,
however, advances with a rapid motion, and
hovers over the city: one would then fay
that it was about to be inundated and buried
by a deluge; but, in proportion as it ap
proaches the bottom of the mountain, it eva-

Diz porates,

a

6 TRAVELS ‘Laie

porates, and appears to be reduced to nothing.
The heavens continue calm and ferene, with-
out any interruption; and the mountain
alone, for a fhort moment, has a eloomy
afpect, while it is deprived by that veil of
the cheering prefence of the fun. ;

I have fpent whole mornings in examining
this phenomenon, without being able to com-
prehend the caufe of it; but afterwards, when
I frequented the Bay of Falfo, on the oppo=
fite fide of the mountain, I have often en-
joyed the pleafure of feeing its commence-
ment and progrefs. The wind at firft an-
nounces itfelf very feebly, carrying flowly
along with it a kind of fog, which it feems
to detach from the furface of the fea. ‘This
being accumulated, becomes condenfed by the
Table Hill towards the fouth, an obftacle
which oppofes it in its way ; and in order to
overcome it, gradually rolling over itfelf, it
rifes by its efforts to the fummit, and dif-
plays to the town that white cloud which an-
nounces the wind, which has already blown
for feveral hours, in the harbour and its
environs, towards the face of the Table
Hill. |

| The

A PR TC iA. 3

The ordinary duration of this kind of
ftorm is three days: fometimes it continues,
without remiffion, for a much longer fpace
of time; often, alfo, it ceafes fuddenly ; and
during the three months when it prevails, if
it happen to ceafe feveral times in this man-
ner, it is a fure fign that great ficknefs will
follow.

Though this wind is not abfolutely dange-
rous for fhips, there have been more than one
inftlance of its incommoding a great many.
When it is toO impetuous, from prudence,
and to’ avoid even the fear of an accident,
they make for the open fea ; but, when it col-
lets no fog, it is not perceived in the town,
and blows only in the road. It is therefore
the accumulation of the fog, which, moving
forward with great velocity, occafions thefe
dreadful hurricanes. Very often it is impof-
fible to crofs the ftreets; and, notwithftanding
the care and attention with which doors and
windows are fhut, the duft penetrates even into
trunks and chefts of drawers. But, however
inconvenient this wind may be, it ftill procures
ereat advantages to the town ; it frees it from
mephitic vapours, occationed by the filth which

D 3. is

38 TRAVEDS AN

is naturally collected on the borders of the
fea, by that which the inhabitants throw into
it, and ftill more by the bloody remains
which the Company’s butchers (who ufe nei-
ther the heads, feet, nor inteftines of the ani-
mals they kill) throw away,,and leave at the
doors of their fhops; where, being collected
into heaps, they become corrupted, infe& the
air and the inhabitants, and add ftrength to
thofe epidemical difeafes too common at the
Cape in the feafon when the fouth-eaft wind
has not prevailed. The moft dangerous and
dreadful diforder here is the fore throat. Peo-
ple of the ftrongeft conftitutions often fall a
facrifice to it in three or four days: it is fo
violent, that they have fcarcely time to coun-

teract its effects by the afliftance of medicine.
The {mall pox is another fcourge in all the
colonies here. Before the arrival of the Eu-
ropeans, this diftemper was not known; and
fince the Dutch have poffeffed the Cape, it
has been within a hair’s breadth of deftruc-
tion. The firft time of its appearance, more.
than two-thirds of the inhabitants perifhed.
Its ravages, however, were ftill more deftruc-
tive among the Hottentots; it appeared that
this

APR LC A. 39

this malady attacked them fooner than others:
at prefent they are very much fubjeG to it.
As this diftemper was brought to the Cape
by fome veflels from Europe, the Company’s
furgeons are always fent to examine with the
utmoft care fuch fhips as arrive in the roads.
On the leaft appearance of infection, the crew
are rigoroufly interditted from having any
communication with the town or its inhabi-
tants; and an embargo is laid on the goods,
no part of which, however fmall, is fuffered
to be brought on fhore. Were it difcovered
that a captain had found means to conceal
this diforder on board of his fhip, he and his
officers would be immediately degraded, and
condemned to pay a very heavy fine, if the
vefllel belonged to the Company. I include
the officers; becaufe, as each of them is obliged
to anfwer for that part of the veflel which
concerns him, it would not be poflible to con-
ceal the infeCtion without the knowledge and
unanimous confent of the crew. Did the fhip
belong to a foreign power, nothing could fave
it from confifcation. |
The wet feafon begins generally towards
the end of April: and the rains are more
D4 abundant

46 TRAWEHES' Do
abundant and more frequent in the town
than any where elfe in the neighbourhood ;
which may be accounted for in the following
manner :—At the Cape the north wind pro-
duces the fame effect as the fouth-weft does
in France: it carries along with it the clouds,
which, pafling over the town, are ftopped by
their impulfe againft the Table, Devil, and
Lyon Hills. Continual rains prevail then
at the Cape ; whilft the neighbouring parts,
to the diftance of two miles around, enjoy
dry weather, and a fky perfectly ferene.
Sometimes they fall over the whole fpace
contained between Table Bay and the Bay of
Falfo, to the eaft of that chain of enormous
mountains which extends to the very extre-
mity of Africa; whilft the eaftern coaft is
clear and entirely free from clouds. This is
but a faint picture of what happens on the
Coromandel and Malabar coafts; except that
this phenomenon is more wonderful here, be~
caufe it is nearer, and much better perceived.
Indeed, if two friends fet out for the Bay of
Falfo, he who purfues his route on the eaft-
ern fide of the mountain, carries his um-
brella with him, to defend himfelf from the
STOMA Ho rae;

AF RIC LA Al
rains but he who pafles on the weft fide,
takes it that he may fhelter himfelf from the
beams of the fun. |

Strangers are generally well received at the
Cape by thofe who are in the Company’s fer-
vice, and by fome others who are private peo-.
ple; but the Englith are adored, either on
account of the fimilarity between the manners
of the two nations, or of their very much af-
fecting to be generous, It is an undoubted
fact, that, whenever they arrive, every one is
eager to offer them lodging. In lefs than
eight days every thing becomes Englifh in
the houfe upon which they have fixed their
choice; and the mafter, the miftrefs, and even
the children, foon affume their manners. At
table, for example, the knife never fails to
difcharge the office of the fork.

Of all nations, the French are the leaft ef-
teemed ; the citizens, above all, cannot en-
dure them; and this hatred is often carried
fo far, that I have heard fome of the inha-
bitants fay, they had much rather be taken
by the Englifh, than owe their fafety to the
arms of the French nation. Such converfa-
tion I at firft confidered as exaggeration; and

thought,

Ae TRAY Eek S aH
thought, on the contrary, that thefe people
formed to themfelves an illufion at pleafure,
to leffen in their own eyes the merit of thofe
fervices which France then rendered them,
and to get rid privately of the burden im-
pofed on them by gratitude. However this
may be, 1 am fiill of opinion that the French
would have had great caufe to complain of
this colony, had not fome people of diftinc-
tion, whofe prudence checked the murmurs of
the populace, made fome amends for the in~
jutftice of this enmity, by thofe obliging fer-~
vices and effential fuccours which the circum-
fiances of the time rendered a part of their
duty. ‘Thefe worthy men were not negledt-
ed by the French miniftry, who honoured
one of them with a letter of thanks from the
fovereign. Who is there who has not had
eccafion to praife the noble and difinterefted
behaviour of Mr. Boers, the fifcal? and whe
is there who will not always preferve the re-
membrance of it in his heart? For my part,
I render him the pureft and the moft fincere »
homage; and may this truth, which I cannot
conceal, as much preferve the remembrance
of hig name as it will offend his modefty.
DEPARTURG

AVR RE CuA. 43

DEPARTURE FOR SALDANHA BAY:

“THE news of a rupture between England
and Holland, which had reached the

Cape before our arrival—and thofe ftill more
pofitive brought by us, that the enemy were
exerting themfelves with the utmoft vigilance—
made us apprehend that we fhould foon re-
ceive a vilit from them. Government there-
fore imagining that no time ought to be loft,
and that the fhips which were lying in Table
Bay fhould immediately take fhelter in that of
Saldanha, where they might be in more fafety
from the Englifh, an order was given for that
purpofe to all the captains. ‘This event feem-
ing to favour my defigns; I propofed to de-
part with the fleet; and Mr. Vangenep, whoa
commanded the Mildelburg, having been fo
kind as to offer me the beft accommodation
on board his veffel, and every affiftance ne-
ceflary to enable me to reap benefit from my
intended refearches, as foon as we fhould ars
rive at the Bay, I accepted his friendfhip with
equal readinefs and gratitude. : Ordering my

baggage,

44 TRAVELS IN

baggage, therefore, to be embarked, we fet
‘fail on the roth of May, in company with
four other veffels; and next morning came to

“anchor in Saldanha.
This bay extends obliquely, towards the
right of its mouth, about feven or eight
Jeagues; and on the left of the entrance
there is a {mall creek, called Hoetjes Bay, in
which ten dr twelve fhips of war might an-
chor on a very good bottom: veflels of lefs
burden might penetrate much farther, and even
to the {mall ifle of Schaapen Eyland, which
would afford them very good fhelter. The wa-
ter found here is inferior, indeed, to that of the
Cape, but during the bad monfoons it changes
its nature, and becomes excellent. The pea-
fants in the neighbourhood fupply fuch thips
as remain in the Bay with provifions of every
kind, at a much cheaper rate than they could
e-procured at in the town; fo that a veflel
from Evrope, outward bound, if prevented
by the fouth-eaft wind, which is unfavour-
able for reaching Table Bay, may eafily gain
that of Saldanha, and be certain of finding
every kind of refrefhment in abundance.
Near this place the company keep a poft of
a few

Ae RATIO: Ay ae

a few men, under the command of a corporal; |
who, as foon as he perceives a veffel in the
entrance of the Bay, fends an exprefs by land,
to inform the governor.

The cachalot*, a kind of whale which
the Dutch call noord kaaper, is always found
in great plenty fporting in the bafon. I have
often fired balls at them, when they raifed
themfelves upright above the furface of the
water, but I never obferved that they made
the leaft impreffion. We found a prodigious
number of rabbits in the fmall ifle of Schaa-
pen Eyland: it became our warren, and was
an excellent refource for the feamen.

Game of all kinds is very abundant in the
neighbourhood.—The principal are {mall an-
telopes, and all thofe of which I have already
{poken. Partridges and hares are found here
alfo; but the difficulty of continually mount-
ing or defcending among the fands with
which this place is bordered, renders it a
very fatiguing and laborious tafk to purfue
them... Panthers are common here, but they

* The cachalit was generally known under the name of
the fpermaceti whale, till Mr. Pennant very properly made
a diftinction, by borrowing its name frem the French. T.

ta. are

26 TRAVELS ~<IWN

are lefs ferocious than thofe of other parts of
Africa; becaufe, finding a ready fupply of
food in the game, they are never tormented ©
by hunger.

Some days after my arrival, the com-
mander of the foldiers ftationed here having
invited me to go on a hunting party with
him, we fet out next morning. Though we
faw great plenty of game, we could not catch
any thing; but towards evening, having ac-~
cidently feparated, as if fate wifhed to fami~
liarize me all of a fudden to thofe dangers
which I had come fo far in fearch of, I re
ceived, for the firft time, a leffon I little ex-
pected, and which I am convinced would
have made more than one brave citizen fhud-
der.—The fhots which I had fired here and
there having roufed a {mall antelope, my dog
fet out to purfue it; and, {topping at a very
large bufh, began to bark, running continu-
ally round it. Imagining that the antelope
had retired thither, I ran up to it, in hopes
of being able to kill it; and my prefence and
voice feemed to add greatly to the courage of
my dog. I every moment expected that the

antelope would appear; but, impatient at not
3 {eeing ,

AE RTO, 4y
feeing it come forth, I penetrated into the
heart of the thicket, beating on every fide
with my mufket, to remove the branches
which intercepted my paflage. But words
can hardly exprefs the ftupor and terror
which froze the blood in my veins, when,
having reached the centre of the bush, I faw,
ftaring me in the face, a furious and mon-
ftrous panther: its attitude after it perceived
me, its flaming eye-balls fixed upon me, its
neck ftretched out, its jaws half extended,
and its hollow roaring, all feemed to an-
nounce my deftruction. I indeed already
believed that I was devoured; but the cool
courage of my dog faved my life. By keep-
ing the animal at bay, and making him hefi-
tate between rage and fear, I had leifure to
return foftly to the borders of the thicket ;
whilft my admirable dog kept clofe to his
matter, refolved no doubt to pefifh along with
him. When I had reached plain ground, I
made towards the public road as foon as
pofhible, cafting every now and then a look
behind me. Hearing at a diftance feveral re-
ports of a mufket fired, at certain intervals,
I concluded that they muft proceed from my ,

companion,

43 TRAVELS ALN
companion, who was looking for me. As it
was now night, I had no defire to rejoin him,
and I fuffered him to fire away at his plea-
fure; he however arrived, but very late. His
furprife at, feeing me perfe@tly fafe and
found, was equal to his joy; for he con-
feffed that, from the manner in which my
dog barked, he judged I was engaged with an
hyzna, or a tyger; and that, not hearing me
return an anfwer when he fired his mufket,
he believed that I was torn to pieces. This
-adventure, which I related to him with all its
particulars, made us both laugh heartily; but
what he told me refpe€ting the courfe I ought
to have purfued in this rencontre, made me re-
gret much that I did not fire upon the animal.
Being as yet a novice in the country of thefe
ferocious beafts, this was the firft I had ever
beheld fo near, and I was altogether ignorant
how to proceed with a panther. In this
manner did | amufe my leifure hours, and
prepare myielf infenfibly for greater dan-
PLS.

We often went to the Ifle of Schaapen, to
kill rabbits. In one of thefe excurfions, which
had belore afforded us much pleafure, we had

a very

AP RAL A. 49
a very narrow efcape from deftru@ion. A
whale rofe all of a fudden near our boat, and
filled us with great terror. It was fo near
us, that fearing left, when it dived again, it
might overfet the boat, and fink it by its enor-
mous weight, the failors threw themfelves into
the fea; but the man at the helm turned the
boat with fo much expedition, that we efcaped
the monfter. This animal, which darted at
leaft twelve feet out of the water, befprinkled
us all when it dived; and our boat received
fuch a violent fhock, that it was almoft over-
whelmed. fad it not been for the good con-
duct of our pilct, not one of us would have
efcaped death.

This whale is generally from fixty to eighty
feet long, and fometimes more. It ofttimes
emerges from the f2a with half its body; and
when this heavy mafs falls back again, it
makes a noife as loud as the report of a
cannon.

One evening, while at fupper, our veffel
received a fhock which made her reel in fo
extraordinary a manner, that, not knowing
wiat might be the caufe of it, we quitted the
table with great precipitation, and ran upon

i i deck,

s0 TRAV ES “ia

deck. The alarm became general throughout
the crew. Wangenep believed that we had
driven on our anchors, and that we were
ftriking on fome rock; but obferving, by the
pofition of the other fhips, that we had not
moved from our place, it was concluded that
fomething elfe muft be the caufe of that extra-
ordinary motion, and our confternation be-
came redoubled. Having in vain attempted
to difcover from what it proceeded, we at
length perceived a whale, which, rifing before
us, had, in diving again, pafled between our:
two cables, which croffed one another. As
the animal happened to be impeded by its
tail, which is exceedingly broad, the violent
efforts it made to difengage itfelf had fhaken,
and even then fhook, our veflel. ‘The people
immediately jumped into the boats, and ran to
their harpoons; but the darknefs of the night
uniuckily prevented them from employing the
neceflary manceuvres to kill it; and the mo-
ment when the boats were approaching, it
got itfelf difentangled. Every one was vexed
at this difappointment. As for me, I regretted
it much, watil chance enabled me afterwards
to get one intomy power. Whe2 the danger

was

A eRelCiAa * si
was paft, we again fat down to table; and, as
a falfe alarm is always fucceeded by the live-
lieft joy, we amufed ourfelves in jeering one
another, and in reciprocally painting the dif-
ferent impreflions which fear had made on
each of the guefts, without {paring any one.

The vigilance of Vangenep, and the promp-
titude with which he gave his orders on this
occafion, were to me a certain evidence that
he himfelf was under great uneafinefs; but he
fuffered nothing to appear: fo true it is that
the coolnefs of a commander conceals dangers
and encourages thofe who are under him.
Such ought to be the conduct of a good fea
officer, even till the laft moment. The con-
fternation foon becomes general, when the
crew obferve any marks of terror imprinted on
the countenance of their captain, I then re-
colle€ted the proof which I had feen of this,
pafling the Line, when we fhamefully fuffered
ourfelves to be cannonaded by a petty pri-
vatcer.

At the entrance of Saldanha Bay there is
feen alfo a fmall ifle, called Daffen Eyland, or
the Ifle of Marmots. I do not know if any
of thefe animals were ever found here at any

E 2 former

+) TRAVELS (19

former period, but I obferved none. A tra-
dition known to all travellers had informed
me, that a Danifh fhip, being prevented by
contrary winds from entering the roads at the
‘Cape, took fhelter in this bay; and that, after
remaining here fome time, the captain hap-
‘pening to die, his crew buried him in this
fmall ifland, and ere&ted a tomb to his me-
mory. |

Every time I paffed this ifle, in order to go
to Schaapen Eyland, my ears were aflailed bya
hollow found which had in it fomething very
. difmal and terrifying. Having mentioned it
to my captain, he told me that, if I was de-
firous, and ifit would give me the leaft plea-
fure, he would land there, efpecially as he
himfelf withed to fee the Danifhtomb. Next
morning therefore he gave orders for this
purpofe, and we fet out.

In proportion as we approached, this hollow
noife excited our curiofity the more, and the fea
breaking with great violence againit the rocks
which form a rampart round this ifle, full
added to the murmuring found, the caufe of
which we had not been able to difcover. _

Being at length arrived, we were obliged

to

AF, R°WO\AS 53

to wade through the water ; as the furf was fo
violent that the boat could not approach near
enough the fhore, where we were every mo-
ment covered with the fpray: but, having at
length clambered up the rocks, with no little
difficulty and danger, we beheld fuch a {pec-
tacle as never, perhaps, appeared to the eye of
mortal. All of a fudden there arofe from the
whole furface of the ifland an impenetrable
cloud, which formed, at the diftance of forty
feet above our heads, an immenfe canopy, or
rather a fky, compofed of birds of every f{pe-
cies, and of all colours: cormorants, fea-gulls,
fea-{wallows, pelicans, and I believe all the
winged tribe of this part of Africa, were here
affembled. All their voices mixed together,
and modified according to their different kinds,
formed fuch a horrid mufic, that I was every
moment obliged to cover my head, to prevent
it from being torn to pieces, and to give a
little relief to my ears.

The alarm which we fpread was fo much
the more general among thefe innumerable
legions of birds, as we principally difturbed
the females who were then fitting. ‘They had
nefts, eggs, and young to defend, They

55},3 werg

[ys TRAVELS ALN

were like furious harpies let loofe againft us 3
and their cries rendered us almoft deaf. They
often flew fo near us, that they flapped their
Wings in our faces; and, though we fired our
pieces repeatedly, we were not able to frighten
them: it feemed almoft impoffible to difperfe
this cloud. We could not move one {tep
without crufhing either their eggs or their
young ones, fo that the earth was entirely
ftrewed with them.

The caverns and crevices of the rocks were
inhabited by phoce and morfes, a kind of
fea calves and fea lions. Among others, we
killed one of the latter, which was of an im-
mente fize.

The {maller crevices ferved as places of re-
treat for penguins, which fwarm here above
every other kind. ‘This bird, which is about
two feet in length, does not carry its body in
the fame manner as others; it ftands perpen-
dicularly on its two feet, which gives it an
air of gravity, fo much the more ridiculous,
as its wings, which have no feathers, hang
_carelefsly down on each fide: it never ufes
them but in fwimming. As we advanced
towards the middle of the ifland, we met in- |

numerable

A Wah Lok. 55

numerable troops of them. Standing firm
and erect on their legs, thefe animals never

- deranged themfelves in the leaft to let us pafs ;

they. more particularly furrounded the mau-
foleum, and feemed as if determined to pre-
vent us from approaching it. All the environs

were entirely befet with them. Nature had

done more for the plain tomb of the poor
Danifh captain, than what the imagination
of poets goes far in fearch of, and what the
chifel of our artifts executes at a great ex-
pence: the hideous owl, however well {culp-
tured in our churches, has not half fo dead
and melancholy an air as the penguin. The
mournful cries of this animal, mixed with
thofe of the fea-calf, impreffled on my mind
a kind of gloom, which difpofed me very
much for the tender fenfations of fadnefs and
grief. I fixed my eyes for fome time on this
laft afylum of an unfortunate traveller, and
honoured his manes with the tribute of a
figh. This monument, erected no doubt in
hafte, prefented nothing remarkable: it was
of an oblong form, three feet in height ; and
conftru&ted, without any mortar, of pieces of
the rock which furrounds the ifland. I fhould

EA have

56 TRAV EES ie

have been glad to fearch the interior part of
this tomb, as it perhaps contained, along with
the difmal remains of the captain, the hiftory
of his death, or fome information refpeGing
his family and country. Had I been alone,
I fhould have ventured to difturb his afhes ;
but before Dutch failors I was very cautious
not even to propofe it. Refpect for the dead
is among them carried to the greateft excefs.
With an unpleafant eye they would have be-
held me lay my hands upon this folitary and
peaceful tomb; and, as they are above all
_ exceflively fuperftitious, if any accident had
afterwards befallen the fhip, they would not
have failed to afcribe the caufe of it to me.

I therefore prudently held my tongue; but, or
| quitting the ifland, I privately referved to
myfelf a right of fome day returning to it,

We filled our boat with animals of all kinds
which we had caught. The penguins were
‘not forgotten; and we extracted abundance of
oil from them for burning. —

Our failors alfo colle&ed a prodigious quan-
tity of eggs, which for feveral days fupplied
us with a nourifhment that we found deli-
clous, and which very feafonably relieved us

from

mer KOT GA: 57

from the neceflity of feeding upon the dry and
too uniform provifions of the fhip.

To this digreflion, which I confider as in-
terefting, I fhall add a few words refpecting
the fea lion and the fea calf. They have
been mentioned by a multitude of authors
under denominations fo different, and with
defcriptions fo erroneous, that nothing can
indeed be comprehended from them. With
regard to the firft of thefe monfters, I can
only fay, that I never obferved any of thofe
trunks half a foot in length, which, as we
are allured, hang from the upper jaw of the
male, In refpe&t to the fecond, which the
Dutch have thus named, it is the fame animal
as that {hewn three or four years ago in one
of the fhops of the Pa/ais-Royal, and which
the people who exhibited it called a /ea tyger ;
while another of the fame fpecies was fhewn,a
few. doors diftant, under a different name. It
was thus that, fifteen years ago, the fimple
credulous Parifians, who would not have gone
a fingle ftep to fee a camel, ran in crowds to
the fair of St. Germain, to flare with wonder
at the gangan, which was nothing elfe but a
camel, thus named by an impofter. Such

| deceptions

4

58 TRAVELS JAN

deceptions are lefs ludicrous, as they deferve
to be condemned. They tend to propagate
ignorance among the indolent inhabitants of
the banks of the Seine, who, when they fa-
crifice their money to gratify vain curiofity,
ought alfo to make it contribute towards their
inftruction. | |

We had been only three months in the bay,
and I had already made myfelf acquainted
with all the environs. I had been fo attentive
to my main objedt, that even in that fhort
{pace of time I had formed a large and va-
luable collection of birds, fhells, infefts, ma-
drepores, &c. Buta fatal event, which took
place foon after, had nearly deprived me of
all the fruits of my labour, my refearches, and
my fatiguing excurfions.

An exprefs which we received over land
from the Governor, informed us that Mr.
Suffrein, after the affair of St. Jago, had ar-
rived at the Cape, and that another French
{quadron was hourly expected. This exprefs
brought an order at the fame time to the
Held-Woltemaade, the veffel which had car-
ried me from Europe, to depart immediately
for Ceylon, to which place fhe was bound.

My

ABRICA. 59

My poor old captain* fet fail, therefore, in
the beginning of Auguft. This unlucky thip
purfued me every where; and [ believe it
Was written in the book of Fate, that fhe
fhould not depart until after having ruined
me. When I reflected on our ridiculous en-
gagement with the privateer, I plainly forefaw
that the Held-Woltemaade would be no fooner
perceived by the Englifh, than fhe would be
taken; which indeed afterwards happened.
Scarcely had fhe begun to proceed on her
voyage, when fhe fell in with the fquadron
under the command of commodore Johnftone,
to which fhe became an eafy prey. This
capture occafioned all our fubfequent misfor-
tunes. ‘Through the fhameful imprudence of
the crew, Johnftone, having received what
information he wifhed for, made directly
towards us, and appeared at the mouth of the
bay under French colours. Every one be-
lieved that the veffels they faw were the com-
bined fleet which we expected ; but a cutter,
a little way ahead, having hoifted an Englifh
flag, fired a broadfide at us, which was fol-
lowed by a general difcharge from all the reft
| * Captain S —~ V—_,

Lc.

60 TRAVELS: ALN

of the fhips. Inferiority of number not per-
mitting our people to maintain the confli@, no
other refource was left us but to cut our ca-
bles, and to run our veflels afhore. We all,
therefore, quitted them ; and every one fought
for fafety by flight. Diforder and confufion
being foon {pread in every quarter, the unfor-
~ tunate veffels were abandoned to the moft
dreadful pillage; every one endeavouring to
carry off what he liked beft. My captain
fet fire-to his veffel, but the Englith arrived
time enough to prevent the reft from being
run afhore and burnt. The fear of being
- purfued, taken, or maflacred by the enemy,
made the failors, with the utmoft precipita-
tion, purfue their way to the Cape. Twenty
leagues of fand to traverfe, before they could
reach the town, had however difcouraged
many of them. Thefe miferable people had
fo overloaded themfelves, that they were un-
der the neceflity of leaving the half of their
effects upon the road. They were feen lying
every where around, and the different paths
which they had taken were {ftrewed with
them. That day I was unluckily out on a
hunting party ; but having heard the noife of

4 | the

AF ROCA con
the cannon, I naturally concluded that fome
entertainment was given by our fquadron ;
and I haftened back to partake of it. When
I arrived on the Downs, what a fpectacle did
I behold! The Mildelburg blew up, and
in a moment the fea and the ifky were filled
with burning fragments. I had thus the
cruel mortification of feeing my collections,
my fortune, my projects, and all my hopes,
rife to the middle regions, and evaporate
into {moke.

The Englifh, however, ftill continued to
fire towards the Downs, and to purfue thofe
‘ftragglers whom avarice had detained too
‘long aboard of our veflels. Of five pri-
foners, whom we had in our fhip, four
threw themfelves into the waves, on fecing
their country’s flag, and got fafe to their
own fleet; the fifth preferred going on fhore
with our people. Seeing him upon the
Downs, at the diftance of ten or twelve
paces from the fpot where I ftood, I im-
mediately knew him; and whilft I was in-
‘terrogating him in his own language, as
well as I could, refpeGting the dreadful ca-
taftrophe which had taken place, a cannon
bullet,

62 TRAVEL $A ret

bullet, which carried off his head, prevent-
ed me from receiving a reply. Another
bullet, from the fame broadfide, did the
fame thing to a large dog, which appeared
to be fearching for its mafter, and which
Was running up to me with a wild and
terrified look. ‘The effects produced by thefe
two bullets making me apprehenfive of a
third, I inftantly quitted my ftation, and
fought a place of fhelter on the other fide
of the Downs. |

The reader may eafily imagine what my
fituation muft have been after this adven-
ture. Suppofing that I did not choofe to go
to the Cape to beg pecuniary afliftance, and
to add to the number of the unhappy victims
who had efcaped from the fire and the fword
of the enemy, infenfible to this fcene of
horror, in which I ought not to have run
any rifque, fince no advantage was to be
expected from it; without title, without
rank, and without commiffion; alone, ab-
fent from dear friends, who in imagination
appeared before me; diftant two thoufand
miles from my wife, my children, and my
adopted country; in wild regions, without

the

AE RL OTK, 63
the hopes of finding even a calm and fafe
retreat; having no other refources but my
fufee, ten ducats in my purfe, and the thin
drefs which I then wore—what courfe could I
purfue, and what could I expect was to become
of me? All thefe ideas rufhed into my mind
at once, and I felt the tears trickle down my
cheeks. In this deplorable fituation I turned
my eyes towards the fhore; but I there faw
that the conquerors, who were purfuing the
fugitives, would have my life in their power,
and with one difcharge of their mufkets
might free me from all my miferies. That
moment, therefore, J formed a_ barbarous
with, and for the firft time found my heart
fteeled with ferocity.

Recovering however the ufe of my rea-
fon, and reflecting upon my youth, which
prefented a confoling fupport in my own
ftrength, I at laft formed my refolution, and
began to be a little eafier refpe&ting my fate.

It ftruck me in the mind that a planter,
whom I had feen feveral times in my excur-
fions, and who lived only at the diftance of
four leagues, would perhaps fuffer me to re-
fide at his houfe till I fhould receive affiftance

from

64 TRAVELS . EN

from my family in Europe. I repaired, there-
fore, to his folitary habitation, and requefted his
friendfhip, whilft my misfortune was painted
in my countenance. Upom hearing my re-
queft, the feeling Slaber ftretched out his
arms, and, feizing me by the hand, intro-
duced me to his family. Next morning I
imitated the perfevering fwallow, whofe neft
has been deftroyed by fome ruthlefs hand;
and, not without forrow, began to form a
new collection.

Some days after we heard from the Cape,
and learned that all the captains had been
broke, except Vangenep, the only one who
had blown up his fhip; by which noble ex-
ploit I was almoft ruined for ever.

On their departure for the bay, they were
all ordered to blow up their fhips, in cafe
they fhould be attacked in a fituation in
which they could not defend themfelves ;
and. they had received a Aocker, or {mall
veflel, which drew little water, and which
could penetrate into the bay much farther
than any other, to ferve as a general maga~
zine, where they might preferve the ropes,
fails, and rigging, of the whole fleet. ‘This

part

AFRIEA-; 65
part of the order was executed; and had
the captain of the Hoeker fet fire to it, as he
was exprefsly commanded, he would have
thrown the Englifh into confufion, and per-
haps reduced them to the neceflity of aban-
_doning our fhips, from a want of the topes
neceflary to carry them along with them. Be-
ing fituated mich nearer the bottom of the bay
than the reft of the fhips, whilft the Englith
were keeping up a conftant fire, and taking
poffeffion of them, he had much more time
than was netceflary to blow up his veffel. He
not only neglected to make any difpofition
for this purpofe; but he quitted the veflel,
‘in order to fave himfelf, on the appearance
of a cutter that came to attack him: he did
not even think of fetting fire to it; and, by
a contradiction almoft inconceivable, and
which feems nearly allied to madnefs, he
burnt and reduced to afhes a beautiful habita-
tion, fituated at the extremity of the bay, in
a place where the water was fo fhallow that
even boats could fcarcely approach it. On
this account he was fued by Mr. Heufke;
the proprietor, who was convinced that the
captain would at leaft be obliged to make
good the damages,

Fou, I. y Vangenep

66 TRAVERS: WN

Vangenep was the only captain who, upon
our arrival in the bay, above all things, fe-
rioufly began to make fuch preparations as
were indifpenfably neceflary for executing
with rigor the general orders given to all.
We had ftuffed every part of our veflel with
tow dipped in oil, with fagots, pitch, and
combuftible fubfances of every kind. His
brother captains were therefore the lefs par-
donable, as their remaining three months idle
in this bay had afforded them fufficient leifure
to be prepared. We arrived here on the 11th
of May; and it was about the middle of
Auguft when this difafter happened.

The officers and failors belonging to our
fhips, who had run to the town in a tumul-—
tuous manner, foon fpread the news of our
misfortune. The fifcal, not feeing me re-
turn with the reft, and hearing no news. of
me, made every poflible enquiry, and at
length difcovered the retreat I had chofen.
In a little time after he paid mea vilit; and
I fincerely regretted that I had fo foon loft
the confidence with which he had infpired
me. I gave him an account of the difmal
fituation to which I was reduced by the

common

ASE Re ECON. 67
éommon misfortune, and of the dreadful dif-
trefs into which I was plunged by the lofs of
all that I poffeffed in the world. I told him
the refolution I had formed of remaining
with honeft Slaber until I fhould receive
letters from my relations; and of endeavour-
ing in the mean time to repair the lofs of
my collections, and to renew my refearches
in natural hiftory. Mr. Boers heard me very
calmly, and without interrupting me.—But
why cannot I here perpetuate, in letters of
gold, his tender reproaches, and the prefling
invitations which he gave me to follow him?
Without afluming any confequence, without
haughtinefs, and without the impertinent ver-
bofity of our patrons in Europe, but with
that open and fincere goodnefs of heart
which furveys mankind with the eye of be-
nevolence, and always confiders thofe whom
it protects as worthy of kindnefs—“ Sir,” faid
he, when [ had ended my apology, “ never
** forget that you have been recommended
“to me. The inftant I fee you opprefled
“ by misfortunes, is alfo the moment when
“I, in my turn, ought to merit the confi-
** dence of thofe friends who have depended

¥ 2 © upon

68 TRAVELS te

“ upon me: I will therefore never betray
“them. My houfe, my table, and every af-
‘‘ fiftance I can give, are at your fervice.
‘* Refume your courage; make new prepa-
“ rations; return to your original plan ; and
*‘ delay not to begin your intended travels,
by waiting for uncertain accounts from
Furope. I will fupply you with whatever —
is neceflary for all your exigencies. Ac-
cept my: offer—I muft and-I will have

rs TC, Ov
In fuch affeCting language did this man of
fenfibility addrefs me. A refufal would have
hurt him too much; and I accepted his kind
offer. To this generous friend, therefore, was I
indebted for the ineftimable advantage of being
able to begin my preparations for this expe-
dition, to which I had long looked forward
with pleafure, and to make provifion for the
ruinous expence with which it was likely to
be attended. I cannot refle& upon his kind-
nefs without’ pleafure; and I muft ever en-
tertain a grateful remembrance of it. With
the like fenfations I recal to view what Mr.
‘Hacker, the lieutenant-governor, did for me,
at the different times when I vifited the Cape;
and

AFR EC A. 69
and I muft return thanks alfo to Mr. Gordon,
the commander of the troops, for the fervices
he had in his power to render me, and of
which he was not fparing. His curious ob-
fervations, publifhed in Holland by Allaman,
are efteemed; and I confefs that I am parti-
cularly indebted to him for a number of va-
luable details, which would have perhaps ef-
‘caped me, had it not been for the inftruGions
and advice I received from him before my de-
parture for the interior parts of the country,
into which he himfelf had made fome jour-
neys.

I requefted permiffion to pafs two or three
weeks more at Saldanha, in order that I might
repair, if poffible, a part of that lofs which
had been occafioned to me by the Englifh. As
I knew not whether I thould afterwards have
an opportunity of revifiting that fatal fpot,
I wifhed at leaft to procure fuch objects as
I was well aflured I could not find any where
elfe. I knew the ground fo well, and I had
croffed it in fo many dire@tions, that, I may
almoft fay, I had nothing to do but to lay my
hand upon them ; for, before the tragical ac-
cident which befel our veffels, I purchafed a

ri 3 * horfe,

¢.. J). TRADERS om

horfe, and hired a Hottentot, who condudted
me to the moft fecret recefles. My hoft him-
felf, as well as his two fons, aflifted me greatly
in my refearches: on the leaft fign, they an-
ticipated my wifhes; and I might have almoft
faid that they were under my command. |
never beheld thefe worthy people without
aitonifhment, mixed with admiration. Be-
fides thefe, the good Slaber had alfo three
daughters, whofe perfons and figure were
really very engaging. The whole family
made a noble appearance; they were all fix
feet in height.

The two weeks granted me by friendfhip,
with fo much difficulty, I improved to the
beft advantage; and my whole time was di-
vided between fhells, plants, and hunting::
the latter, above all, which was my ruling
paffion, continually expofed me to the
greateft dangers ; and acquired me a reputa-
tion for intrepidity, which was {pread to the
diftance of ten leagues around. |

One evening, having returned very early,
I found waiting for me at our houfe one of
the inhabitants, named Smit, a perfon with
whom I was not acquainted. He had come to

« requett

AFRICA, mH

requeft our affiftance againft a panther, which,
having for fome time taken up its refidence in
that canton, carried off regularly, every night,
fome of the cattle; and, as his propofal gave
me great pleafure, I readily agreed to it.
Happy at having an opportunity of hunting
this animal according to rule, I trufted I
fhould be able to revenge myfelf for the ter-
ror which one of the fame fpecies had occa-
fioned to me in Saldanha Bay.

Having agreed to fet out next morning, we
engaged fome young men in the neighbour-
hood to join us. Obferving that they did not
confent with a good grace, I endeavoured to
make the moft timid afhamed ; and this gave
a kind of fpur to the reft, When about to
depart, we collected all the dogs we could
find ; each armed himfelf cap-a-pie ; and,
when properly equipped, we all feparated,
as if we had been about to give an aflault.
To enjoy a few hours reft, and prepare my-
felf for the fatigues of the next day, I threw
myfelf on my bed ; but impatience and joy
prevented me from clofing my eye-lids. By
the break of day I reached the plain, with my —
efcort, where Smit and a few friends were

Pa waiting

72 TRAVEES: AN

waiting for us. We amounted in all to eight-
een hunters ; our dogs formed a pack of the
fame number: and we learned that a panther
had carried off a fheep during the night.

One of the barrels of my fufee was loaded
with very large fhot, and the other with {mall
bullets ; befides this, I had a carabine loaded
with balls, which was carried by my Hotten-. .
tot, who followed me. The country being
very open, we obferved only a few detached -
bufhes here and there; but we were obliged
to examine all thofe which we found in our
way with great precaution.

After fearching above an hour, we found
the fheep, one half of which only had been
devoured by the panther; and we were now
certain, by this mark, that the animal was not
far diftant, and that it could not efcape us.
A few minutes after, indeed, our dogs, which
till then had done nothing but range through
the fields without any order, all of a fudden
collected themfelves ; ; and, prefling together,
rufhed forwards two hundred paces from us,
to a very large buth, where they began to
bark and howl with all their might.
| Difmounting from my horfe, and running

towards

A FORUD OA. 49

towards the bufh, I took up my ftation upon
a {mall eminence, at the diftance of fifty paces ;
but, looking behind me, I obferved difmay
painted in the countenances of all my compa-
nions. John Slaber, one of my hoft’s fons, a
coloffus fix feet high, came, however, and
ftood clofe by me; faying that he would ra-
ther lofe his life than defert me. By the pal-
pitation of his heart, and his difordered looks,
I concluded that the poor youth depended
little on his own courage, and I perceived that ©
he had need of fome refolute perfon to revive
his drooping fpirits. Whatever might have
been his terror, am of opinion that he thought
himfelf in more fafety near me, than in the
middle of his daftardly companions, whom
we faw ftraggling through the plain, and keep-
ing at a very refpectful diftance.

They had all cautioned me, in cafe I fhould
get near enough to the animal to be heard,
that I ought not to cry /aa, faa, becaufe thefe
words would make the tiger furious; and that
he would {pring upon the perfon who had pro-
nounced them fooner than upon any of the
reft: but as 1 was inthe open plain, and ina
Spot where I could not be encumbered, I re-

peatedly

oA TRAVELS: IN

peatedly cried out /aa, faa, both to encourage
the dogs, and to drive the animal from its
hold ; but all my attempts were in vain:
the animal was as much frightened as the
dogs; the former not daring to come forth,
nor the latter to enter the bufh. Among the
dogs, however, I obferved fome maftiffs, on
which I might have depended, had their .
ftrength been equal to their courage. My.
bitch alone, the {malleft in the pack, always
appeared at the head of the reft; and alone
penetrated a little way into the bufh. As fhe
knew my voice, fhe was a good deal animated,
and became much fiercer on that account.

In the mean time the tiger fet up a dread-
ful howling; and I every moment imagined
that I faw him {pringing forward. ‘The dogs,
on the leaft motion which he made, retreated
with precipitation; and feampered away as
faft as their legs could carry them, Some
mufket fhots, however, fired at random, at
length determined the animal; he inftantly
flarted up: and this fudden apparition was a
fignal for every body todecamp. John Slaber
himfelf, who, formed like a Hercules, might
have grappled with the animal, and ftrangled

: him

AFRICA. "5
him in his arms in a moment, became con-
fufed; and, being overcome by terror, fled
towards the reft, and abandoned me to my
fate. I was therefore left with no other at-
tendant but my Hottentot ; and the tiger, to
gain another bufh, pafled at the diftance of
fifty paces, which gave us an opportunity of
faluting him in his paflage with three dif
charges of our mufkets.

The bufh in which he took fhelter was
much fmaller, and neither fo high nor fo
thick as that which he had quitted. Some
traces of blood, which I obferved, gave me
reafon to believe that I had wounded him;
and the redoubled fury of the dogs convinced
me that I was right in my conjecture. Part
of my people then approached me; but the
greater number of them had entirely difap-
peared.

We haraffed the animal for above an hour
more, and fired above forty fhots into the
bufh, till at length being tired, and lofing all
patience at this fport, which produced no-
thing, I mounted my horfe, and with great
precaution went to the fide oppofite to the
dogs ; imagining that, while his attention was

engaged

76 TRAVELS AIN
engaged in defending himfelf from them, I
might eafily furprife him behind. The event
fhewed that I was not deceived: I foon ob-
ferved him fquatted down, and making ufe of
his fore paws to defend himfelf from my little
bitch ; for fhe approached fo near him, con-
tinually barking, as almoft to be within his
reach. When I had taken a proper aim, I
difcharged my carabine, which I inftantly
dropped, in order that I might lay hold of my
double-barrelled fuzee, which I carried at the
bow of my faddle. This precaution, how-
ever, was needlefs; the animal did not ap-
pear; and, after I had fired, I faw nothing
more of him. ‘Though I was certain that I
had hit him, it would have been highly im-
prudent to penetrate immediately into the
thicket. Not hearing him, I fuppofed that he
was dangeroufly wounded ; and calling out to
fuch of my brother {portfmen as were collected
together—- My friends,” faid I, “ let us all
** advance towards him, in a clofe line afront ;
“ if he is ftill alive, and makes his appear-
** ance, our pieces, difcharged at once, muft
‘© deftroy him. What rifque can we run?”
Upon hearing thefe words, they all anfwered
with

with one voice; but their anfwer was in the
negative. In fhort, my propofal was relifhed
by nobody. Fired with indignation at their
timidity, ° Friend,” faid I to my Hottentot,

who was no lefs animated than his matter,
© the animal muft either be dead, or ex=
“ tremely ill. Get on horfeback, approach
in the fame manner as I did, and endea-
vour to difcover in what fituation he is:
leave me to guard the entrance; and, if he
attempts to efcape, I hope [ fhall be able to
difpatch him. We may complete the bu-
finefs, without the affliftance of thefe pol- »
“ troons.” He had no fooner entered, than
he called out to me, that he perceived the
tiger extended at his length, without any ap-
parent motion; and that he believed him to
be dead. That he might, however, be fure
of it, he fired one fhot more; upon which I
ran up, my whole body being agitated with
gladnefs and exultation, while my courageous
Hottentot fhared in my tranfports. Joy hav-
ing redoubled our ftrength, we dragged the
animal to the open plain; and, when dif-
played to view, he appeared to be of an enor-
mous fize. I then began to take his dimen-

flons

98 Tt RAMEL'S 28
fions with the utmoft exactnefs: I turned
him over and over again, in every diredtion ;
and examined him with the greateft care. [
furveyed him with a kind of pride. This
was my firft attempt; and the tiger, which
was a male one, happened to be prodigioufly
large. From the extremity of his tail to the
tip of his muzzle, he meafured feven feet two
inches; and in circumference two feet ten.
I obferved in him all the charaters of the
panther, fo well defcribed by Buffon; but in
the fettlements here he is known by no other
name than that os the tiger. This appella-
tion has become prevalent; though in all this
part of Africa there are no real tigers, and
though there is a very great difference between
thefe two animals. The Hottentots call him
garou gama; that is to fay, the {potted lion.
In general, in the {ettlements near the Cape,
the panther is much more dreaded than the
lion. The latter never approaches without
giving warning by dreadful roarings. He
himfelf gives the fignal for defence; as if he
fhewed greater confidence in his ftrength, or
made his attack in a nobler manner. ‘The
other, on the contrary, unites treachery to
ferocity ;

ferocity ; he approaches always without noife,
glides along with great dexterity, feizes every
advantage, and, f{pringing upon his prey, car-
ries it off before any one fufpects that he is
near. |
I had afterwards frequent opportunities of
feeing feveral of thefe animals; as well as of
another fpecies, called by the Dutch /uypar,
or leopard of the French; and a third {pecies,
ftill {maller, called the cat tyger, and by Buffon
the offelot. 1 fhall {peak of thefe hereafter.

When I had finifhed my obfervations on my
panther, and had drawn a figure of him, we
began to take off his fkin ; and my timid com-
panions approached gradually, when they faw
us quietly at work. ‘The reader may eafily
imagine how much they were afhamed, and
what marks of confufion were dilplayed in
their countenances. Ought they not to have
blufhed before a ftranger, who, engaged for
the firft time with a ferocious animal, had re-
mained firm, and fhewn more courage than
they, though they had ali been born and edu-
cated, as one may fay, amidit the monfters of
Africa?

When I had flayed the animal, my Hot-

2 tentot

86 TRAVELS IN

tentot wrapped himfelf up in the fkin; and,
after faluting my bold fellow-hunters, we re=
turned to our lodgings.

We marched in triumph, efcorted by feveral
dogs, whofe mafters had firft difappeared ;
but they would not approach near us. The
tiger’s fkin ftruck them with great awe; and
when my Hottentot, to terrify them more,
turned round, making a kind of motion to-
wards them, they retreated with as much pre-
cipitation as if the tiger had been at their
heels; which afforded us no fmall diverfion.

The particulars of this expedition were foon
fpread abroad. Every where throughout the
country I was faid to be a man of courage ;
and thofe even who had fo zoély fupported me
began to be of the fame opinion. I was re-
quefted alfo by a planter, whom I did not
know, and who lived at the diftance of four
leagues, to affift his fon to deftroy a panther,
which had committed feveral depredations in
the neighbourhood. |

As I had experienced fo much danger in
my firft attempt, I was not very fond of en-
gaging in a fecond. I therefore begged leave
to be excufed; being refolved never more to

expofe

AFR LC. A. Sr
expofe myfelf to the hazard of becoming a
viGtim to fuch bafe defertion. ‘ Go,” faid I
to the meflenger, “ tell your mafter that i
ie did not come to this country in order to ex-
“ terminate the race of the tigers. I fhould
* be very ill repaid for my fervices, fince none
“ but poltroons would derive benefit from
them. If chance expofe me to fuch ren-
“ counters, Ican combat alone; I want none
“ of your affliftance, and I will lend mine to
* nobody.” Succefs had thus inflated my
pride, and I imagined myfelf at leaft a fe-
cond Thefeus.

I had, however, very improperly con-
founded people whom I did not know, with
thofe who had given me fo much caufe to
complain of their “condu&. This invitation
had come from a perfon named Louis Karfte,
with whom I had afterwards an opportunity
of being acquainted; and I repented that I
had entertained fo much prejudice againft his
children. They convinced me that they were
incapable of behaving badly in the moment
of danger; and | have been a witnefs to the
effects of their courage.

The time to which. I had bac myfelf,

aor. L G when

$2 TRAVELS IN

when I left Mr. Boers, was now nearly
celapfed; the feafon proper for undertaking —
my journey into the interior parts of the coun-
try was rapidly approaching ; and I had great |
preparations to make. I therefore took leave
of my good friend Slaber, and of all his fa-
mily, whom I quitted with regret. Being
freed from every care, embarraf{[ment, and in-
quietude, I caft my eyes towards Saldanha
Bay for the laft time, and fet out on my re-
turn to the Cape.

RETURN FROM SALDANHA BAY TO THE
CAPE.

R. Boers was waiting for me; and as

foon as I arrived, I took up my lodg-

ing in his houfe, where I found every thing
that could flatter my wifhes, and that friendly
attention which the infolent pride of the rich
fells at fo dear a rate in other countries. He
anticipated me with refpeét to the preparations —
neceflary for my journey; and begged that [
would oe to think of them. Upon this
occafion

AVF RICA 83
occafion I formed a more intimate conne&ion
with Mr. Gordon, the commander of the
‘troops, who thought my intended enterprize
rather too hazardous; efpecially at a time when
the Caffres were at war with the Dutch plan-
ters, and confequently with the Hottentots :
and, though he approved of my plan, he did
not conceal the dangers to which I fhould be
expofed in the execution of it. What he re-~
lated concerning the rifks which he had run
in attempting a like project, ferved only to
redouble my ardour: and I believed myfelf to
be proof againft all thofe misfortunes, which
he took a pleafure in exhibiting to my view;
and which, I muft own, were far from being
encouraging.

Whilft my people were employed in pre-
paring my baggage, I examined, with parti-
cular attention, the city and its environs.

I feveral times vifited the Table and Lion
Mountains. ‘Though the former, feen from
the bay, feems to reach to the city, I found,
however, that it was more than a league dif-
tant from it. :

The bottom of this mountain is covered
with a great number of fragments of rock; -
| . G2 whick

Aang

84 TRAVELS AN

which feem to have once formed a part of it,
and to have been afterwards detached: the
bafe confifts of pure granite, and to the very
top it appears to be alternately compofed of .
horizontal ftrata of granite and of earth. Ac-
cording to the meafurement given by M. de
la Caille, it rifes three thoufand fix hundred
feet above the level of the fea. A perfon can-
not afcend it but by the deep fiffure, through
which thofe ftreams flow that fupply the foun-
tains of the town with water; and even this
route is very difficult, efpecially towards the
top, where the fiffure becomes much nar-
rower, and rifes almoft perpendicularly. It
is neceflary to clamber above two hours, before
one can reach the fummit; where there is a
very extenfive plain, full of enormous rocks,
heaped together in confufion, and interfperfed
with different kinds of fhrubs. They refem-
ble the ruins of an immenfe city. Time and
confpiring elements feem to have deftroyed
their projecting parts, which gives them a very
circular appearance. I have feen fome pieces
of quartz as round as thofe pebbles that are
often found on the fand near the banks of
FIVCTS.

About

AF EK Tm, : 85

About the middle of the plain there is a
muddy lake, from which thofe ftreams that
reach the Cape flow through the fiffure already
mentioned. It is about three or four hundred
paces in circumference: near it I killed a
great many {nipes. I could not difcover whe-
ther this water was produced by a {pring, or |
by the rains and the fogs; but I found that
the mountain was interfected by a number of
fiffures, which, like fo many aqueduds, in
different places diftribute the water from this
bafon, and fertilize the plantations fcattered
here and there at fome diftance near its
bottom.

’ The Table Mountain is frequented by vul-
tures of that f{pecies called perchnopteros; but
the fouth-eaft wind often obliges them to quit
the mountain: and it blows fometimes with
fuch fury, that it throws them down into the
ftreets at the Cape, where they are killed with
fticks. Apes of the baboon kind, which the
Dutch call dawians, are alfo found here. Every
one knows that they are great thieves. They
difperfe themfelves over the different planta-
tions, and climb the garden walls, in order to
feal fruit; but not with that preparation and

G3 fine

86 TRAVELS IN

fine order which Kolben has made the fubjeé&
of a childifh and ridiculous tale. When the
fky is pure and ferene, the Piquet Mountains,
which are thirty leagues diftant, may be feen
from the top of the Table Mountain: not-
withftanding this diftance, they feem to fur-
pafs the latter in height.

When people who for the firft time vifit this
mountain, are engaged in the hollow fiffure
of which I have fpoken, they think them-
felves attacked by a thower of rain: though
the weather be fine, it really rains to them.
This proceeds from the particles of water,
which, dropping continually from the rocks
above, and falling upon thofe below, are
broken by their fall, and converted into a
kind of rain, which becomes the finer the
more one approaches the bottom of the
mountain. This rain is always more abun-
dant in the morning than at any other time
of the day. The caufe of this may be eafily
explained by the coolnefs and dews of the
night. |

In this hollow, at the diftance of about
one-third of its height from the top, there is
a beautiful cafcade, where the water falls over

7 avery

AG BOC uA, 84

a very broad rock. The inhabitants of the
town fometimes walk as far as this fall; and,
though the way is extremely rugged, even
the ladies indulge themfelves with a fight of
this charming and picturefque fcene, from a
delightful point of view which begins in this —
{pot.

It is very remarkable, that, in the warmeft
countries, the flaves kindle fires, in every
place where they are at work, which ferve to
light “their pipes, and to warm or cook their
victuals. ‘Thofe of the Cape, who are fent to
cut wood for the ufe of their matters’ families,
go in fearch of it fometimes to the back of the
Table Mountain. In the evening, when they
quit their labour, if they negle& to extinguifh
thefe fires, they infenfibly communicate them-
felves to the dry grafs and roots in the neigh-
- bourhood. The flames then {pread rapidly
on every fide, and foon reach deep valleys,
where all the wood, both dry and green,
without diftinction, blazes forth with amaze
ing fury; having the appearance of fo many
{mall volcanos, connected together by ftrings
of fire. The flames rife in clouds of different
fhades, according as the caverns have a greater

G 4 or

$8 TRAVELS A.
or lefs depth ; night comes on; and the city,
the road, aad the whole neighbourhood, enjoy”
a {pectacle fo much the more magnificent, as
the. caufe of it is known; and people are en-
tirely free from that great terror which fuch a
phenomenon would otherwife occafion: for
the height and extent of this conflagration
give to the mountain a more awful appear-
ance than the lava does to Vefuvius, when it
burfts forth with the greateft fury.” -b never
faw this majeftic illumination but once; and
I can fay that it afforded me the utmoft plea-
fure. All the inventions that might ‘be made
to direct fhips at the diftance of twenty leagues
at fea, would never approach this Pharos, kin-
died accidentally by fome fmall bufhes, which
a thoughtlefs negro has fuffered to catch fire.
It is impoffible to reach the Devil’s Moun-
tain by the Table Mountain, though it is a
part which has been feparated from it at the
fummit, either by fragments fucceffively fall-
ing, or by earthquakes ; but one may eafily
arrive at the Lion Mountain, which, like the
other, is alfoa part of the Table. It is how-
ever impracticable to get to its fummit without
a rope, by which one may clamber up, though
| Ha with

Ar RCH: eR
with confiderable difficulty. From this emi-
nence fignals are made to fhips at fea. There
is always ftationed here a perfon in the Com-
pany’s. fervice, whofe bufinefs is to fire a
cannon for every veffel that he fees; and, by
a fignal agreed on, the town knows in an in-
ftant whether the fhip comes from India or
Europe: but the fame man, after he has dif-
tinguifhed the veflel’s flag, is obliged to re-
pair to the town, and give information of it
to government. This employment is both
laborious and cruel; for it often happens
that the poor wretch muft defcend and go
up in this manner four or five times a day,
which opprefles him with fatigue: like many
other things, it may be confidered as a fault
in the adminiftration, againft which every
body’s eyes are fhut. The perfon whom I
faw told me very coolly, that little notice was
taken of this bufinefs: and I could eafily be-
lieve it ; for he was in a moft deplorable fitu-
ation, ‘Though only thirty-five years of age,
his knees and legs were become fo {tiff that
he could not walk but with great pain.

I paid a vifit alfo to the famous eftate of
@onflantia, behind the Table Hill. This

vineyard

90 TRAVELS oo

vineyard does not perhaps produce the tenth
part of the wine which is fold under its
name. At that time it belonged to Mr.
Cloete. Some fay that the firft plants were
brough t hither from Burgundy, others from
Madeira, and fome from Perfia. However
this may be, it is certain that this wine is
delicious when drank at the Cape; that it
lofes much by being tranfported; and that
after five years it is worth nothing. On my
arrival a demi-haam, that is to fay, about
twenty bottles, was fold from thirty-five to
forty piaftres; when I departed it was worth
more than an hundred.

Clofe to Conftantia is another vineyard,
called the Lefer Con/fantia ; but it is only with-
in thefe feven years that it has begun to be
held in the fame efteem as the former. It has
even fometimes happened that the produce
of it has been fold for a larger fum than that
of the other, at the Company’s fales. As 1
is feparated from the other only by a plain
hedge, it is probable that there was formerly
no difference between the wines but in the
manner of preparing them.

All the fpace contained between the Bay

of

| AFR? SA. gt
ef Falfo and the Table Bay, abounds with
country feats and beautiful plantations, the
owners of which confine themfelves .to the
cultivation of pulfe, ‘ruits, and, above all, of
vines. The moft efteemed, and thofe which
approach neareft to the wines of Conftantia,
are thofe of Becker and Hendrick. The
wine-merchants at the Cape can prepare
them in fuch a manner as to fell them for
real Conftantia wine. Befides thefe fweet
wines, other fettlements, fuch as the Pearl,
Stellembofch, and Drageftein, produce fome
kinds of fack, which are highly valued. A
wine is alfo made here that approaches near
to Rota, to which the fame name is given,
and which I have found in every refpect as
good. Thofe who go to the Cape to pur-
chafe any of it, muft apply to the planters
themfelves, in order to be well ferved; for
the merchants are cheats, who, knowing
that there is no guard, fmoke the cafks with
fulphur, and fill them up with fpirits, to
make them keep as long as pofflible, in cafe
they cannot get rid of them.

The ordinary wine of the country feldom
makes its appearance at the tables of genteel

people ;

gz TRAVELS IN

people ; red wines, from Bourdeaux, are’
thofe generally drank ; and thofe import-
ed in the Dutch veffels are always prefer-
red to the French wines, brought only in
ill-conditioned cafks, in which they never
keep. ie

The average price of this wine is a florin
the bottle: it however varies according to
cireumftances; I have feen it at three florins,
and fometimes at twelve fous.

The beer brewed at the Cape is not much
efteemed; but that of Europe is highly valued,
and a great quantity of it is confumed. The
' price of it varies between twelve and twenty-
four fous the bottle. In general, there is a
great fale for liquors of every kind.

Thofe who enter a houfe are always pre-
fented with a /opi, that is to fay, a glafs of
rack or gin, or rather of French brandy: gin,
however, is the liquor moft ufed in the morn-
ing. Before they fit down to table, etiquette
requires alfo that they fhould be offered a /opz,
or a little white wine, in which wormwood
or aloes have been infufed, in order to excite
an appetite.

At table, people drink beer or wine indif-

criminately.

A Ta Rod CAAR $3
¢criminately. When the deflert is finithed,
the ladies rife up, and retire to a neighbour-
Ing apartment, or to the landing place of the
ftairs. Pipes, tobacco, and more wine, are
then brought for the gentlemen; whilft the
ladies are regaled with coffee, Rhenith or
Mofelle wine fweetened with fugar, and
other cordials. After this they form parties
at play ; and, when a lucky or interefting
ftroke takes place, it is always the fignal,
or a pretence, for a bumper extraordinary.

This manner of living is common in moft
families ; with this difference, that thofe who
are not rich ufe only wines of the country.
The vanity of the inhabitants in this refpe&
is however very ridiculous. One day, while
paffing along the ftreet with Mr. Boers, he
made me take notice of a man who was fit~
ting on the ftair before his houfe ; and who,
‘perceiving us near enough to be under- |
ftood, called out to his flave, with as loud
a voice as he could, to bring him fome red
wine. The fifcal affured me that this man
had not a fingle drop of it in his poffeffion,
and that he had not perhaps drank of it ten
“times in his life. On this account, when
: we

04 TRAVELS IN

we had advanced a little farther, I turned
round, and obferved that his fervant was
pouring out beer to him. —

The Hout Bay, or Wood Bay, takes its
name from the brufh wood which is found
there: it produces no large trees, but only
fhrubs and bufhes. This bay, which is fmall,
and expofed to the weft winds, is furrounded
with rocks. Veflels feldom feek fhelter in it,
except they are fuddenly overtaken by foul
weather, and cannot poflibly reach any other
place. It lies two leagues to the fouth-weft
of the Cape.

The Bay of Falfo, fituated fouth-eaft of
the Cape, is diftant from it three leagues ;
but one muft pafs over a fpace equal to
four, in order to arrive at the anchoring
ground: the way to it is almoft impaflable.
This fpacious bay is capable of affording an
afylum to a confiderable number of veflels :
it is here that thofe feek fhelter which hap-
pen to be in Table Bay when the weft wind
begins to blow; and, for a contrary reafon,
when the fouth-eaft begins, thefe veflels re-
turn to their former ftation.

The commander at the Bay of Falfo has

the
%

mee

AER TC: al 95

the rank of an under merchant: his falary is
moderate ; but his place brings him a great
deal, by the trade which he carries on with
foreign veffels. When he purchafes their
goods, he fends them to the town to be
refold; and he fometimes finds means to
‘difpofe of them at five times their original
value.

Clofe to the fhore of the bay there are a
great number of warehoufes, in which pro-
vifions are depofited for the ufe of the Eaft-
India Company’s fhips. A very beautiful
hofpital has been likewife ereGted here for
the crews, and a commodious houfe for the
governor, who generally comes hither and
~fpends a few days while the thips are lying
in the bay. Commerce draws hither alfo a
great number of individuals from the Cape,
who furnith the officers with lodgings. Whilft
the latter are here, the bay is extremely
lively: but as foon as the feafon permits
them to heave up their anchors, it becomes
a defart; every one decamps; and its only
inhabitants are a company of the garrifon,
who are relieved every two months. The

, Jrellels which arrive then, and have need of

provifions,

96 TRAV ELS, IN
provifions, are in a difmal fituation:; for “it
often happens that the warehoufes have been
fo much drained, that it is found neceflary to
bring from the town in carts whatever thefe
new comers are in want of: and the carriage
of them generally cofts an exorbitant price.
The hire of a paltry cart is from twenty to
thirty dollars a day; I have even known
fifty paid for one: and it is to be obferyed,
that they can make only one journey in_ the
twenty-four hours.

The fineft fith are caught here, and parti-
cularly the rooman, that gives its name to a
rock in the neighbourhood of which it is
found in great abundance. Oryfters alfo are
fifhed up here, but they are PROSE
{carce.

I muft not omit to mention, that in the
fields between the Bay of Falfo and the Cape
Town, but efpecially in the environs of Con-
-ftantia and of Niwwe-land, is found that charm-
ing tree, called filwer blaaderen*. It appears
that, when Dr. Sparmann was at the Cape, this
tree was not fo abundant as at prefent; for the
planters having remarked that it grew up very

* The protea argentea of the botanifts.

fatt,

AFRICA. 97
re faft, formed confiderable plantations of it, which
have become of great ufe to them for fewel.
I obferved that this tree was not to be met with
in any other place of the colony, not even in
the Nimiqua land, from which Mr. Sparmann
very falfely fuppofes that it was brought. I :
can affirm that it does not grow there; and I
never obferved it in any of the other canton
into which I penetrated. For this reafon I
am. of opinion that it was carried from fome
other part of Africa, or of the world; though
M. Sonnerat, in his laft voyage to the Indies,
affures us that it is the only tree originally
found at the Cape. It appears that this natu-
ralift never faw the mzmofa nilotica, which is
very common there, as well as a number of
other {fpecies much more valuable. ©

The plantations of Ste/lembofch, Drageftei,
Franfche-Hoeck, the’ Pearl, and Hottentot Hol-
land, are different cantons, fituated between
the Cape and that great chain of mountains
perceived on the eaft. They fupply all the
reft with fruits and wine.

Stellembofch is a {mall village to which fe-
veral of the inhabitants of the Cape have re-
tired, and where they cultivate their land

“aL. I. lal themfelves,

98 TRAVERS: tN
themfelves. It hasa church, a minifter, and
a Jand-rof?, or bailiff, who has the rank of
an under merchant. He is a kind of fifcal,
who judges in the firft inftance ; but he cannot
impofe any fine above the fum of fifty rix-
dollars: when the affair is greater, it muft be
brought before the proper fifcal.

The Franfche-Hoeck, or French Corner, is
fituated in an opening of the mountains be-
tween Stellembofch and Drageftein. It re-
ceived its name from fome refugees who went
thither to cultivate the ground, about the end
of the laft century. The foil of it is good,
and it produces plenty of corn and wine.— ~
The beft bread of all the colonies is eat here ;
but this is not owing to the corn being better
than in any other place; it is becaufe the French
method introduced by the emigrants has been
fince preferved without alteration from father
to fon. This is all that remains of the remem-
brance of their ancient and cruel country. In
this canton! found only one old man who fpoke
French: fome families, however, ftill retain
their primitive names, and write them as
they were written formerly. I have known
here Ma/berbes, Dutotis, Retifs, Cocbers, and

_ feveral

AD ha Cu: 99
feveral others, whofe names ate familiar in
France. Befides this, they may be diftin«
euifhed from the other planters, who are al-. -
moft all fair, by their brown hair, and the
dark colour of their fkin.

Hottentot Holland is thus named, becaufe
this canton, originally inhabited by the Hote
tentots, was firft cultivated by the Dutch. It
produces pulfe, fruit, and corn. Stellembofch
bounds it on the north, a chain of mountains
on the eaft, the bay of Falfo on the weft, and
‘on the fouth mountains in which there are {till
fome inhabitants.

The firft chain of mountains and hills ob-
ferved from Table Bay, is named the Tyger
Mountains. ‘They are here and there inter-
fperfed with farms, which are excellent for
producing corn. All thefe hills, when fown,
prefent a noble view to the town in the time
of harveft ; and, on account of their fertility,
they have been called the granary of the colo-
ny. The back part of thefe hills is alfo
covered with corn farms; and this fpecies of
cultivation extends to a great diftance. The
plantations near the Cape are generally very
valuable, on account of the facility with which

H 2 pulfe,

100 TRAVELES IN

pulfe, fruits, eggs, milk, and all other provi-
fions abfolutely neceflary, can be tranf{ported
thither, as there is always a fure and ready fale
for them—an advantage which the other inha-
bitants do not enjoy, on account of their dif-
tance.

For twelve miles round the Cape, the plant-
ers no longer employ Hottentots, as they
choofe rather to purchafe negroes, who are
not fo lazy, and on whofe fervices they can
more depend. The Hottentots, naturally care-
lefs and inconftant, often run away when they
expect fevere labour, and leave their matters
in great embarraflment. The negroes defert
alfo, with the vain hopes of procuring their
liberty ; but they arefoon taken. On fuch occa-
fions they are put into the hands of the bai-
liff of the canton; the proprietor claims them,
and, on paying a fmall fee, they are reftored,
after receiving a flight correction; for there is
no country in the world where flaves are treat-
ed with fo much humanity as at the Cape.

The negroes of Mofambique, and thofe of
Madagafcar, are confidered as the beft labourers
and the moft affectionate to their matters.
When they land at the Cape, they generally

coft

LLACK Rib eA. tor
coft from an hundred and twenty to an hun-
dred and fifty dollars each. The Indians are
more particularly fought after, for ferving in
the houfe and in the town, Malays are alfo
feen here, who are the moft intelligent, and,
at the fame time, the moft dangerous of flaves,

‘To afiaffinate their mafter or miftrefs, is in

their eyes but an ordinary attempt; and, in
the five years which I refided in Africa, I
have feen this crime often repeated. They
march to the fcaffold with the utmoft calm-
nefs and indifference. I heard one of thefe
wretches tell Mr. Boers, that he was happy in
having committed his crime; that he was

well aware to what kind of death he would

be condemned; but that he ardently wifhed to
fee his life brought to a conclufion by it, as he
would then foon return to his own country.
I am aftonifhed that fo violent a prejudice
does not caufe ftill greater difafters.

The Creole flaves at the Cape are the moft
efteemed: they are always fold at double what
is given for the reft; and when they are ac-
quainted with a trade, their price becomes
exorbitant. A cook, for example, cofts from
eight to twelve hundred rix-dollars, and others

TE 3 in

102 TRAVELS AN

in proportion to their talents. They are all
properly clothed ; but they go barefooted, as a
mark of flavery. That infolent fet of do-
meftics called fcotmen, are not to be feen at
the Cape; for pride and luxury have not yet
introduced thofe idle and contemptible attend-
ants, who in Eurape line the anti-chambers
of the rich, and who in their deportment ex-
hibit every mark of impertinence.

On arriving at the Cape, one is aftonifhed
to fee a multitude of flaves as white as Eu-
ropeans ; but this aftonifhment ceafes when it
is known that the young negrefles, if they are —
in the leaft handfome, have each a foldier of
the garrifon, with whom they may go and |
{pend every Sunday in whatever manner they
choofe, Self-interef{t makes the mafters wink
at the irregularity of their flaves, becaufe they
expect to reap confiderable profit from this
licentious cohabitation.

There are fome negrefles, hieendtae who
are lawfully married, and negroes eftablithed
in bufinefs, who form one body with the citi-
zens. ‘[hefe are men, who, on account of
their fervices, or from fome other motives,
have been made free. The facility with which

they

AF RECA 103

they obtained their liberty formerly, gave rife
toa multitude of abufes; becaufe thefe people,
when they grew old and infirm, or when they
found themfelves deftitute of refources, and un-
able to procure a fubfiftance, became vagabonds
and public robbers.

The criminals whom the government of
Batavia often fends to the Cape, in order to get
rid of them, preferve among thefe flaves a
certain diforder, which will always affiat them.
Thofe people, called Bougznées, are Malays, all
fifhermen and harbourers of thieves; with
refpect to the latter article, their reputation is
fo well eftablifhed, that fearch is always made
firft among them, when a flave has difappear-
ed, or when effects have been ftolen.

A mafter here feldom punifhes his flaves
himfelf,; he generally commits them into the
hands of the fifcal, who orders fuch correc-
tion as they have merited to be beftowed on
them. Ifa mafter, however, who choofes to
punith his flave, treats him with cruelty, the
latter may lodge a complaint ; and if he can af-
terwards bring certain proof of his being again
ufed in the fame manner, the fifcal obliges
the proprietor to fell him. Should he feverely

4 wound

104 TRAVELS, AWN
wound or kill him, he would be fubjected té
corporal punifhment, or be banifhed to the
ifle of Roben. Thefe wife laws certainly do
great honour to the Dutch government ; but
low many means are there to eludethem ?
The ifle of Roden is fituated at the diftance
ef two leagues in the fea, oppofite to Table
Bay, and in fight of the city. ‘This ifland,
which takes its name from the great number
of fea-dogs found near it, is entirely flat, and
of very {mall extent. It is the Brcetre of the
Cape. It is under the care of a corporal, who
has the title of commander ; and the unfortu-
nate wretches who are confined in it muft
every day deliver a certain quantity of lime-
{tone, which they dig from quarries. ‘The reft
of their time is employed in fifhing, or in cul-
tivating {mall gardens, for which they receive
tobacco and fome other indulgences. One
cannot fee without aftonifhment in what a
vigorous manner greens of every kind grow
here: cauliflowers. above all attain to a mon-
ftrous fize ; and, though reared amidft fand,
their delicacy {till furpaffes their bulk. Small
violet hgs, of an exquifite flavor, grow here
alfo, ‘The wells of this {pot fupply its inha-
'g Peo hc! bitants

MA TORR Ao 105
bitants with water equally good as that of the
Cape—a very extraordinary phenomenon in
an ifland fo {mall, and almoft on a level with
the fea.

I have feen here a great many black fer-
pents four feet in length, but they are not
venomous: abundance of partridges, and a
ftill greater number of quails, are likewife
found in this ifland. I have fometimes killed
from fifty to fixty of thefe birds in a morning.

~I muft not here omit to mention an obfer-
vation which concerns natural hiftory. . The
quails of the ifle of Roben and thofe of the
Cape are abfolutely the fame fpecies, without
any difference which might render my affer-
tion even doubtful ; yet the quails of the Cape
are birds of paflage. This fa&t is well known:
and though the diftance from the ifle of Roben
to the continent be only two leagues, it is alfo
certain that the quails there never emigrate.
They are always equally abundant and found
in every feafon. If I add likewife that the
quails of Europe are exaétly of the fame {pecies
as thefe, muft we not conclude that the former
do not pafs the fea, as has been hitherto pre-
tended: Some travellers affert as a truth,
that

~

106" TRAVELS IN
that they have obferved them at fea: but this
does not decide the queftion; for, at the diftance
of more than fixty leagues from the coaft, I
have fhot ftarlings, chaflinches, linnets, and an
owl. All thefe birds, which, as is well known,
never pafs the fea, had been undoubtedly
driven from their courfe by fome violent ftorm
or hurricane; and I fhall always believe that
the cafe was the fame with thofe quails whick
have been met at fea, until this part of the
natural hiftory of birds be better elucidated,
Tam fo much the more inclined to difbe-
lieve that quails crofs the fea, becaufe they may
go by land to Africa, and return by the fame
route. It is very probable that if thofe of the
ifle of Roben dare not venture to crofs that
{mall fpace of fea which feparates them from
the coaft, much lefs will they dare to hazard a
paflage incomparably more confiderable. The
quail is a very heavy bird; and the fmallnefs
of its wings, in proportion to the weight of its
body, is nowife fuited to a long and continued
flight. There is fcarcely a {portiman who does
not know by experience that, when he fprings
a quail three or four times fucceflively, it is im>
poffible for it to fly any more ; and that, over=
come

AFRICA. 107
come by fatigue, it fuffers itfelf to be taken by
the hand. The fame thing happens to all ois
birds of this kind,

Befides the quail common to Europe and
Africa, there is found at the Cape a bird much —
{maller, which is alfo called a quail, but very
improperly; for it has only three toes on each

' foot, and all directed forwards; a mark fufficient

to convince us that they ought not to be con-
founded. M. Sonnerat, in his Voyage to India,
defcribes a bird of the fame kind, which he
calls the three-toed quail. M. Desyontaines
mentions alfo, in his Voyage to the Coafts of
Barbary, a like fpecies approaching near to
that of the Cape, of which it is doubtlefs a va~
riety. I am acquainted with two others much
larger, one of the ifland of Ceylon, and the
other-of Java: I fhall give a defcription of

- them ; and I think it will be neceflary to make

a new genus of them, to form the link of con-
nection between the quail and the French field
duck *, to which it has a great refemblance
in the conformation of its toes. Government

fends

* In the original cane petieres This bird, in Latin called
anas pratenfis Gallia, according to Bomare, is peculiar to
France, It is 3 about the fize of a pheafant ; its head refem-

bles

108 CRAVELS “iy

fends every year a detachment to the ifle of
Roben, to kill fea cows and penguins, from
which an oil is extracted, particularly from
the latter: they furnifh a great deal. At the
point of Roben there is a {mall creek, in which
a veflel might find fhelter, if the fouth-eaft
winds fhould prevent her from reaching the
roads at the Cape.

When I quitted Europe to niet into Afri-
ca, it was not a part of my plan to enter into
any detail refpeiing the manners and cuftoms
of the inhabitants of the Cape, much lefs re-
fpecting the political, civil, and military forms
of its government. This isa fubject, I con-
fefs, which engaged the leaft fhare of my at-
tention, and which I fhould give an account
of with the greateft reluctance, even were I

bles that of a quail, and its billthat ofahen. It has only
three toes on each foot, like the buftard. Its head, back,
and wings, are of a brownifh yellow, diverfified with black
and white ; its breaft, belly, and thighs are of a paler colour,
inclining to white; and its legs and feet are of an afh colour.
It is accounted very delicious eating. See a defcription and
figure of it in Briffon’s Ornithology, under the name of the
leffer bufiard. See alfo Dig Raijonné et Univerfel
des Animaux, under the articles canard de pré de France, and
cane peticres ‘Vs
: interefted

AG RAYA, 109
interefted in doing it. I have my own reafons
for acting with this referve, almoft in the fame
manner as the reader may have his for being
curious ; and neither the reader nor I has any
ovcafion to know them. However, from Kol-
ben’s reveries we may colle certain facts,
which a refidence of ten years at the Cape
Town gave him an opportunity of obferving.
In this point he has not impofed fo much on
the public as may be imagined. ~His book,
perhaps, contains truths which do not exift at
prefent, and which have been confidered as fa-
bles. But manners, characters, fafhions, laws,
ard even empires, change in the courfe of time,
and exhibit variations almoft without number.
They are like the features of a countenance dif-
figured by old age, and which has no refem-
blance to the portrait made from it when in
the bloom of youth.

The cafe is not the fame with what this fe-
dentary traveller has boldly advanced refpecting
the Hottentots and their religious ceremonies»
If what he defcribes ever exifted, the fpirit of
philofophy, which imperioufly hovers over
Europe, muft have a little cooled the fcorching
air of the African regions; for I obferved there

no

es TRAVELS ale

ho trace of religion, nothing even that aps
proached the idea of an avenging and rewards
ing fpirit. I lived long enough with them,
and among them, in the bofom of their peace
ful defarts ; with thefe hardy people I have
undertaken journeys to very remote parts of
the country: but in no place did I perceive ©
any thing refembling religion, any trace of
what he tells us refpeing their legiflation and
their funerals, or of what they pradctife at the
birth of their male children; and nothing, in
fhort, of what he is pleafed to relate concern-
ing the ridiculous and difgufting ceremony of
their marriages.

The refidence of this man at the Cape is not
yet forgotten. It is well known that he never
quitted the town; and yet he fpeaks with all
the affurance of an eye witnefs. It cannot how-
‘ever be doubted, that, after an abode of ten
years, having failed to accomplifh what he was
commiffioned to do, he found it much eafier
and moré convenient to collect all the tiplers
of the colony; who, treating him with deri-
fion, whilft they were drinking his wine, dic-
tated memoirs to him from tavern to tavern ;
tried who could relate to him the moft abfurd

2 . and

AFRICA. tif
and ridiculous anecdotes; and amufed him with
information until they had drained his bottles.
In this manner are new difcoveries made, and —
thus is the progrefs of the human mind en-
larged !

JOURNEY TO THE EAST OF THE CAPE,
THROUGH THE COUNTRY OF NATAL
AND THAT OF CAFFRARIA.

HE different preparations for my jour-

ney being now completed, I ordered all

the {cattered provifions to be colle@ted. They
were indeed pretty confiderable; for in that firft
effervefcence which tranfports the imagination
beyond the ordinary bounds, I neither knew
nor had fet myfelf any limits. Refolved, on
the contrary, to proceed as far and as long as I
pofhbly could, [knewnot whether I fhould ever
have it in my power to return; but I withed
above all to guard againft the difagreeable dif-
appointment of being obliged to ftop, through
the want of things abfolutely requifite. Even

to

ie. TOV AL a

to articles, therefore, the utility of which did
not feem to have a dire obje&, I omitted
nothing that might.be neceflary to my prefer-
vation in unforefeen circumftances ; and I was-
always afraid that I fhould have occafion to
reproach myfelf with fome prejudicial negleé.
The three months which I paffed at the Cape
and in the neighbourhood, after my return
from Saldanha Bay, were fcarcely fufficient for
making all thefe preparations.

I had ordered two large four-wheeled wag-
gons to be conftructed, which were covered
with double fail-cloth; and five large boxes,
which exactly fitted the bottom of one of thefe
carriages, and which could be opened without
being difplaced: over thefe was a large mat-
trefs, upon which I propofed to fleep during
my journey, in cafe want of time or any other
circumftance fhould prevent me from erecting
tents. ‘This mattrefs rolled back upon the laft
box, and it was there that I generally placed
a cabinet or cheft of drawers deftined to receive
infects, butterflies, and fuch tender objects as
required great care and attention, 4 °

I had fo perfe&ly fucceeded in the conftruc-

tion of this box; my collections were pre-
ferved

AFRICA, 113
“ferved there fo well, and they arrived in fuch
good condition, that, for the benefit of natu-
ralifts who ftudy this branch,and who may be
incited to undertake a like journey, I fhall,
with great pleafure, defcribe its form. It was
about two feet and a half high, eighteen inches
in depth, and as much in breadth. It was di-
vided lengthwife into compartments, each con-
taining a drawer, which rofe only three inches
from the bottom. Thefe drawers placed thus
vertically drew upwards, and were open below,
fo that, if violent jolts (and of thefe we had a
good many) happened to detach any of the
infects from their frames, they fell to the bot-
tom of the box into the empty fpace of three
inches, which I had referved, and could in no
wife hurt thofe that remained firm: a coat of
- virgin wax, two or three lines in thicknefs,
' melted with linfeed oil, and applied to the
bottom of the box, ftopped its pores, .and by
its {mell kept at a diftance all deftructive ver-
min.

This firft waggon, which carried almoft my
whole arfenal, we called the ma/ffer waggon.
The compartments of one of the five boxes
already mentioned were filled with large fquare

Wou. I. I bottles,

tA TRAVELS: 2
bottles, each containing five or fix pounds of
gunpowder. This was placed there only for
immediate ufe, and to fupply the wants of the
roment. My general magazine was compofed
of feveral {mall barrels ; and, to preferve them
from fire or moifture, I rolled them up in fheep’s
{kins newly flayed. This covering, when once
dry, was abfolutely impenetrable. Reckoning
every thing, I could depend upon four or five
hundred pounds of gunpowder, and two thou-
fand, at leaft, of lead and tin, either unwrought
or formed into fhot and bullets. Of fixteen
fufees I had twelve in one carriage: one of
thefe, intended for large animals, fuch as the
rhinoceros, the elephant, and the hippopo-
tamus, carried a ball that weighed a quarter of
a pound. Befides thefe I was provided with
feveral pairs of double-barrelled piftols, a large
cimeter, and a poniard. The fecond waggon

exhibited in caricature the moft curious appa-

ratus perhaps ever feen; but it was no lefs va-
luable to me on that account. It was my
kitchen. What delicious and peaceable repafts
did I enjoy! and how dear to my heart the
remembrance of my charming and domeltic life
{till is! Whenever I am prefent at thofe din-

ners

A rR? C A. 11s

ners of ceremony and conftraint, where lan-
guor generally prefides, the difguft which they
occafion conveys me fuddenly back to the
gentle noife of our haltings, and prefents to
my imagination the moft lively and variegated
picture of my good Hottentots employed in
preparing a dinner for their friend.

My kitchen utenfils were far from being
confiderable. I had a gridiron, a frying pan,
two large kettles, a cauldron, a few china
plates and difhes, coffee-pots, tea-pots, cups,
bowls, and fome boilers. ‘Thefe were almoft
all the articles which compofed my houfehold
furniture. :

Befides thefe, for my own perfon, I had pro-_
vided myfelf with linen of every kind, a large
ftock of white and candied fugar, coffee, tea,
and a few pounds of chocolate.

As I conceived it would be neceflary for me
to fupply the Hottentots who accompanied
me with tobacco and ftrong liquors, I pro-
cured an ample abundance of the firft article,
and three cafks of the latter. I carried with
me alfo a large quantity of glafs ware, toys,
and other curiofities, to exchange with the na-
tives as occafion might require, or to gain their

I. friendfhip.

116 TRAVEE Seas
friendfhip. To all thefe things belonging to
my caravan, I muft ftill add a large and a {mall
tent, inftruments neceflary for repairing my
waggons, and for melting lead; a jack for
raifing burdens, a quantity of nails, iron in
bars and in {mall pieces; pins, thread, needles,
diftilled liquors, &c. &c. Such was the cargo
of my two carriages, which might weigh each
nearly about two tons. I muft not here forget
to fpeak of my dreffing box, which afforded me
much amufement. Nothing could equal the
aftonifhment which it occafioned to the favages
in the remote parts of the country. I always
made ufe of it in their prefence ; and their con~
verfation on this fubje&t has more than once
prolonged my toilet, and procured me a very
agreeable recreation.

My train was compofed of thirty oxen ;
twenty for my two carriages, and ten more to
relieve them; three hunters, nine dogs, and
five Hottentots : but I afterwards confiderably
augmented the number of my animals and
attendants. That of the latter amounted
{ometimes to forty. It increafed or diminifhed
according to the heat of my kitchen; for in
the bofom of the African defarts, as in more
refined countries, cne meets with abundance

of

ACHR ¥ GA. 117

of agreeable paratites, whofe countenances are
feldom tinged with a blufh: thefe, however,
without being very burdenfome, were not en-
tirely ufelefs to me, and they did not difappear
when the cloth was removed.

My projected journey being known through-
out all the Cape Town, when the time of my
departure approached, I was ftrongly folicited
by feveral people who wifhed to accompany
me. Every one ftrove who fhould firft offer
his fervices: but thefe gentlemen and I rea-
foned in avery different manner. ‘They ima-
gined that their propofals would afford me
great joy; and they could never believe that I
intended to depart alone. Such an idea appear-
ed to them to be altogether ridiculous; whilft
I, onthe contrary, confidered it as the height
of wifdom and prudence. I had been inform-
ed that, of all the expeditions fet on foot by
government for making difcoveries in the in-
terior parts of Africa, not one had fucceeded.
I knew likewife that a diverfity of humours
and characters could never conduce to the fame -
end: in a word, that concord fo neceflary in a
hazardous and new enterprize could not be
preferved among men, where felf-love would

Ii : make

3) TRAY Eds, UN
make them flatter themfelves with gaining an
equal fhare in the honour of its fuccefs. After
thefe reflections, I was unwilling to expofe
myfelf to the rifk of lofing the expences of my
journey, and the fruits which I expeéted to
derive from it. [ wifhed to fet out alone, and to
be abfolute mafter of myfelf: I therefore kept
firm to my purpofe ; and, rejeCting all thefe
ofiers, cut fhort every propofal of the kind
that was made to me. When my equipage
was entirely ready, 1 took leave of my friends,
and on the 18th of December 1781, at ninein —
the morning, [ departed, efcorting my convoy,
myfelf on horfeback. I did not intend to make
a long march. According to the plan which I
had laid down, I direted my courfe towards
Hottentot Holland; and I {topped about even~-
ing at the bottom of thofe mountains by which
it is bounded on the eaft fide of the Cape.
Being then entirely abandoned to myfelf,
and expecting no fupport or afliftance but
from my own arm, I returned, as I may fay,
to the primitive ftate of man; and breathed,
for the firft time in my life, the delicious and
pure air of liberty. ;
~ Twas now obliged to fubje&t my operations,

ARR EG A. 1 tig

as well as my people, to fome order; for every.
thing depended on my commencement. With-
out being a deep philofopher, 1 was fufh-
ciently acquainted with mankind to know
that thofe who with to be obeyed, muft pre-
{cribe laws; and that, unlefs they are firm and
vigilant over their actions, they can never
flatter themfelves with being able to rule thofe
who are under them. I had to fear, every
moment, that I fhould be abandoned by my
attendants, or that my weaknels would lead
them into diforder. Without affeCtation,
therefore, I purfued a prudent courfe, which
I always followed afterwards ; and no circum-
{tance whatever made me relax, even for a
fingle day, in my ufeful feverity.

We had fcarcely halted, when I gave or-
ders for the cattle to be unyoked in my pre-
fence; and I fent my oxen to feed, under the
care of two of my people, in whom I had
obferved more punctuality and intelligence,
With the reft, I reviewed my carriages and
effects, in order to fee that nothing was de-
ranged. I even examined the wheels and the
harnefs : and I diftributed to each his employ-
ment; and addrefled them all, in a fhort

aig: fpeech,

120 TRAV: EASON

fpeech, refpecting the different occupations
which would be afterwards affigned to them.
This procedure immediately infpired them
with an idea that I was a careful and prudent
man, and that the leaft remiffnefs in their fer-
vice could not efcape me. After this cere-
mony, | mounted my horfe, and went to re-
connoitre the road on the mountain, which
we were to traverfe next day. On my return,
IT found my oxen in excellent condition, and
a large fire burning, which I had ordered to
be kindled. Having made a flight fupper on
the provifions which we had brought from
the town, we retired to reft; I in my car-
riage, and my Hoitentots under the canopy of
heaven.

Next morning we yoked our oxen before
day, and prepared ourfelves for attempting
the mountain; but we could not reach its
fummit without being in great danger of
breaking our carriages, and laming our oxen.
The road is cut out even, on the back part of
it; but it‘is fo fteep, and fo rough with fplin-
ters of rock, that I am aftonifhed government
fhould have fo much neglected 'the only route
by which the inhabitants of thefe cantons can

90

AVP Red COA, 12

go to the Cape. On the top of the moun-
tain there isa noble and moft extenfive pro-
{fpeat, including all the plantations {cattered
throughout a vaft valley, inclofed by a chain
of other mountains, and the fea.

We were here obliged to unyoke our oxen,
to fuffer them to take breath, and to give them
fome hours repofe. Uneafy refpefting the
defcent, and defirous to know the fafeft me-
thod of gaining the plain country, I employed
this fhort interval in taking a furvey of the
neighbourhood. Having obferved that a gra-
dual and gentle declivity on the back of the
mountain would conduc us, without danger,
to that charming country, I was entirely freed
from my embarraflment; and returning foon
after to my caravan, we refumed our march.
The road, indeed, was very convenient for
our carriages, and did not in the leaft im-
pede their motion: we defcended, therefore,
with a pleafure and tranquillity equal to the
pain and inquietude which we had felt on the
other fide. As favage animals feldom make
their appearance in thefe cantons, having no-
thing to fear, and no precautions to take, we
continued our march till ten at night, and ar-

rived

122 TARA VE ENS eb NM

rived at the river Pa/mit, thus named by the
Dutch, on account of the great quantity of
reeds which eréw on its banks.
When we awoke next morning, we fought
for our oxen, but in vain; they had all difap-
peared: not being yet accuftomed to lie down
by our carriages during the night, they had
difperfed themfelves on all fides. My people,
however, went in queft of them ; but if was a
long time before they could get them colle@ted
together, and we were not in a condition to
depart before nine. About eleven, obferving
a plantation at the diftance of fifty paces from
“me, I advanced towards it; when the owner,
who doubtlefs had feen my caravan, caine to
meet me. As foon as he perceived me, he
made himfelf known; and I found that he
was the fame perfon who, at the Cape, had
fold me my majfer waggon, with the five pair
of oxen that drew it. On this occafion, I
could not help Ropping and accepting a din-
ner, which he offered me in the moft prefling
manner: I complied with his requeft efpe-
cially, when he confeffed to me, that, having
learned at the Cape the day of my departure,

and the route I intended to purfue, he had
taken

Ad, RADNCAAL Vhs 3
taken the ftart of me with his people, and
made preparations to entertain me at his °
houfe. I ordered my oxen to be unyoked
or. the {pot where he had met me; and going
along with him, was received very politely by
‘his wife and two pretty daughters, who com-
pofed his whole family. Till the hour of
dinner, we employed our time in viewing his
eftate ; and, during our repaft, he did not fail
to enlarge upon the excellence of the waggon
which I had purchafed from him, I was even
obliged to liften to a long hiftory, in which he
recited all the good qualities of each of the
oxen that drew it. I muft, indeed, do him
the juftice to fay that he did not deceive me:
I have fince found, and, I muft allow, much
to Mr. Smit’s honour, that thefe oxen were
the beft I ever employed, and the. moft to be
depended upon; and that, in my extraordi-
nary courfes, and the moft dangerous patfles,
his waggon, olidly conftructed, held out to
the very laft,

Notwithftanding the entreaties of this good
family, who invited me to fpend the night
with them, I departed as foon as we had
dined; and, after fome hours march, we crofled

4. the

124 TRAVELS SIN

the river Bot, and the whole canton called
Ouwe-Hoeck. I wifhed to make up for the
time I had loft at dinner; and, on that ac-
count, it was eleven at night when we halted,
near a {mall pond of brackifh water.

Scarcely had the fun appeared above the
horizon, when we proceeded on our journey ;
and, in the morning, we ftopped at the houfe
of Francis Bathenos, who fent me a loaf which
T requefted from him, and for which he re-
fufed payment. He fent to requeft that I
would alight ; but I refufed, not wifhing in
any manner to lofe my time in paying vifits.
In this country I every moment met with
prodigious flocks of that kind of antelopes
which the planters call reebock: it is as yet
very little known: Mr. Sparmann only makes
mention of it; and the name of this animal,
in the French edition of his work, is badly
tranflated; for reebock does not fignify red
goat, but goat of the fea fbore—The noon-
tide heat became fo exceflive, that I was ob-
liged to ftop; and, whilft my people and cattle
were breathing a little, I made a fmall excur-
fion, in which I killed one of thefe reebocks :
it was a male; its colour, in general, was a

delicate

A RT GOA, 125

delicate grey, darker upon the back than the
fides, and its belly was white: it was not ab-—
folutely reddifh, nor were its horns more than
five or fix inches in length. Dodtor Spar-
mann, who fays he defcribes them only
from memory, muft have been deceived, when
he gives them a foot in length. The defcrip-
tion and figure of this antelope will be found
in my Account of the Quadrupedes of Africa.
In returning to my people, we ftopped a little
time, to eat a few fteaks from the animal I
had killed ; and, in the fpace of four leagues,
which we travelled, in order to find a conve- _
nient {pot for encamping, we faw near us, on

all fides, flocks of antelopes, bontebocks*,
and bubales}, together with fome zebras,
&c. Sc. and feveral oftriches. The variety
and gait of thefe large flocks were very amuf-
ing, and worthy of engaging the attention of a
naturalift. My dogs purfued with great keen-
nefs all thefe different fpecies, which croffed
each other as they fled, and fometimes found
themfelves all promifcuoufly colleéted into
ene body, according as the dogs attacked

* ‘The antilope {cripta of Mr. Pallas.
t+ The antilope bubalis,
them.

726 TRAVELS WN

them. This confufion, like the machinery of
the ftage, {carcely required a moment to be
remedied ; I recalled my dogs, and each indi-
vidual inftantly returned to its flock, which
kept at acertain diftance from the reft. This.
{pectacle will be more eafily conceived, if one
thinks of the month of May in Holland:
nothing is then to be feen but innumerable
flocks. of cattle, feparated from each other with
a kind of fymmetry, and which are never
confounded together. Thefe animals were fo
full of curiofity, and fo tame, that, had it not
been for my dogs, I might have killed a great
number of them from my carriage; but the
approach of my dogs put them all to flight.

A curiofity equally familiar feems to cha-
raéterize all animals with horns, and particu-
larly antelopes; there were none but zebras
and oftriches which kept at a great diftance.

Being only four or five leagues from fome
warm baths, much boafted of by the inhabi-
tants of the Cape, I was delfirous of feeing
them ; though I was, at the fame time, afraid
that my journey would be retarded. To gain
on the one hand what I was about to lofe on
the other, I departed earlier than ufual; and

at

ACE IRI TG) Bb 129

at ten in the morning we found ourfelves
clofe to them. This {pring of warm mineral
water, diftant from the Cape about thirty
leagues, is generally held in great eftimation.
Government have caufed a very {pacious and
convenient building to be erected here, for
the ufe of fuch invalids as may be defirous of
bathing: their lodging, indeed, cofts them
nothing ; but thefe invalids are obliged to fur-
nifh their own neceflaries, which is not eafily
done in a country that affords very few re-
fources. In this place there are two feparate
baths, one for the blacks, and another for the
whites. Near this alfo is fituated that moun-
tain, called the Tower of Babel, the height of
which has been fo much exaggerated by Kol-
ben: it is far from approaching that of the
Table Mount. Around this place, the com-
pany, under the aufpices of a corporal, have
eftablifhed feveral repofitories, where they feed.
all thofe cattle that are neceflary for fupplying
their veffels with provifions.

Next morning I pafled the river Steenbock,
not far from which is a beautiful feat belonging
to a widow named Wiflel; and after dinner,
before I crofied a fecond river called Sonder

A End,

128 TRAVELS AIN

End, I faw in my way the Zicken-Huys.
This is a repofitory or rather hofpital for the
difeafed oxen belonging to the company : they
are here cured fometimes; but this eftablith-
ment is attended with one utility, which is
that thefe animals cannot convey their infeCtion
to thofe that are well, and which are feparated
from them.

I had refolved to travel during the whole
night ; but I was obliged to halt at nine in the
evening, in the valley of Soete-Melck, as a bog-

gy marfh impeded us in our way: it would
‘not have been prudent to entangle ourfelves
in it whilft it was dark. |

Early in the morning I obferved at.a little
diftance a beautiful houfe, which was a poft
belonging to the company, and commanded
by Mr. Martines. As I was acquainted with
him, having been feveral times in his compa-
ny at the fifcal’s houfe at the Cape, I paid him
a vifit. Like all the reft of the planters, he in-
vited me to fpend a few days with him ; but
my impatience to proceed on my journey
made me reject his kind offer. About noon
I paffed near a {mall horde of Hottentots, who
appeared to me fo miferable and wretched,

that

that I gave them a few prefents. I found no
cattle of any kind among them; they fubfifted
entirely by what they could procure for their
labour in the neighbouring plantations. I in-
vited feveral of them to follow me, and pro-
mifed to pay them well on their return; but
they could not be prevailed on, until I had af-
fured them that I would give them a quantity of
tobacco, fufficient to ferve them on the road.
They then promifed that they would be at my
fervice.—Having paffed the night at Tiger-
Hoec, or the tigers corner, I waited for my
recruits till nine in the morning; but at the mo-
ment when I began to defpair of them, and to
think of continuing my journey, they arrived,
to the number of three, with their arms and
baggage. This fmall reinforcement gave me
ereat pleafure: they mixed with the reft; and,
having foon got acquainted, I put off my de-
parture till the afternoon, refolving in the mean
time to make a little tour in the neighbour-
hood, One of the new comers afked permif-
fion to follow me, affuring me that he was an
excellent huntfman . but as I had carried with ©
me from Europe that prejudice which people
generally have againft thofe who found their

WoL, I, K own

130 TRAVELS IN

own praifes, I had no great confidence in the
talents of my Hottentot.- I however ordered a
fufee to be given to him ; and we -fet out to-
gether.

‘We foon faw fome flocks of antelopes, with
which the whole country was covered, but they
always kept out of our reach: at length, after
a good deal of running, my hunter ftopping
all of a fudden, called out to me that he per-
ceived a Jd/aw-dock, a blue goat, fquatted
down. [immediately turned my eyes towards
the place which he pointed out, but I obferved
nothing. He then begged me to remain quiet,
and not to move, afluring me that he would
foon put me in poffleflion of the animal. He
immediately made a turn round, creeping on his
knees, whilit | watched him clofely ; but I could
not comprehend the meaning of this ftrata- -
gem, which to me was entirely new. Soon
after the animal rofe up, and began to browfe
quietly, without removing from the place.
I at firft took it for a white horfe; for from the
place in which I ftood it appeared to me to be
wholly of that colour, having never before that
period feen an antelope of this fpecies: but
I was foon undeceived when I obferved its

,” borne.

AFRICA. 131
horns. My Hottentot in the mean time con
tinued to drag himfelf along on his belly;
and approaching quickly near enough to take
aim, fired at it, upon which it inftantly fell—
I was fo overjoyed that I made only one ftep

to the place; and I had the pleafure of con- a

templating at my leifure the moft curious and
beautiful fpecies of antelope that Africa pro-
duces. For this fervice I aflured my Hotten- .
tot that I would reward him generoufly when
I returned to our encampment. The intelli-
gence of this man, and the various methods he
employed to furprife the animal, rendered his
fervice of great value and importance : on this
account I refolved to gain him over by all thofe
allurements which feduce the Hottentots. I be-
gan by giving him a large provifion of tobacco ;
and to this prefent I added fome tinder, a tin-
der-box, and one of my beft knives: he imme-
diately made ufe of the latter, and began to flay
the animal with the fame dexterity as he had
fired. ‘The fkin I carefully preferved.

This antelope has been defcribed by Pennant
under the name of the d/ue antelope, and by
Buffon under that of the “eran. ‘The latter
has given the figure of a part of its horns: it

oe yas

132 TRAVELS «ia

is rare, and very little known. During my re-
fidence in Africa, I never faw but two of thefe
antelopes, and another which was brought
to the governor fome years before, when I
lived at the Cape Town. ‘Thefe, as well as
mine, came from the valley of Sccte~Me/k, the
only canton which they inhabit. I was affured
that I fhould fee fome of them in the country
of the great Nimiquas; but notwithftanding
this information, and all my refearches, I found
myfelf difappointed: all the favages affirmed
that they were not acquainted with them. I
was affured alfo that the female had horns as
well as the male; but I can fay nothing on that
head, fince the three which I faw were all of
the fame kind.

The principal colour of this animal is a faint
blue, inclining to grey ; but the belly and the
‘interior part of the legs, throughout their whole
length, are as white as {now; the head, above
all, is beautifully fpotted with white.

I did not obferve, as Dr. Sparmann fays,
that this antelope when alive refembles blue
velvet, and that when dead the fkin changes.
its colour; living or dead it appeared to me
always alike. ‘The tints of that which I

brought

ek SEVER CON aN 133
brought with me never varied. I faw another-
at Amfterdam, which had been kept for more
than fifteen years. The cafe was the fame
with regard to that belonging to the governor
of the Cape: it was ftill frefher than mine,
but in other refpects they were equal. I can-
not help adding here, that I never found |
this animal properly reprefented in any of the
engravings or figures which | have hitherto
feen of it. In my defcription of African
quadrupedes, I fhall give one from a drawing
which I made éf this upon the fpot, before it
was fkinned. |

Next morning, the weather being cool and
cloudy, we marched fix hours in order to reach
the borders of a very large pond abounding
with {mall tortoifes, of which we caught about
twenty; we broiled them all in the fame
manner on the coals, and found them excellent.
. They were from feven to eight inches in

length, and about four in breadth. The fhell
‘on the back was of a whitifh grey colour, in-
clining a little to yellow: when alive, they
_had a difagreeable {mell; but by roafting them

it was entirely deftroyed.
OL vied It

134. ‘TRAVELS IN

It is very remarkable that, when the waters
are dried up by exceflive heat, the tortoifes,
which always feek for moifture, bury themfelves
under the earth in proportion as the furface
of it becomes dry; to find them, it is then
fufficient to dig to a confiderable depth, in the
{pot where they have concealed themfelves.
They generally remain as if afleep ; and never
awaken, or make their appearance, until the
rainy feafon has fupplied the ponds and {mall
lakes with water, on the borders of which
they depofit their eggs, wherg they continue
expofed to the air; they are as large as thofe of
a pigeon: they leave to the heat and the fun
the care of hatching them. Thefe eggs have
an excellent tafte; the white, which never be-
comes hard by the force of fire, preferves the
tran{parency of a blueifh jelly. s

I do not know whether this inftin@ be com-
mon to every f{pecies of water tortoifes, and
whether they all employ the fame means ; but
this 1 can affert, that every time, during the
great droughts, when I wifhed to procure any
of them, by digging in thofe places where there
had been water, I always found as many as |
had occafion for.

This

ARR Ce: 135

This method of fifhing, or whatever elfe it
may be called, was not new tome: for at Su-
rinam a ftratagem of the fame kind is employ- _
ed to catch two fpecies of fith, which bury
themfelves alfo; and which are called, one the
varappe, and the other the gorret or the he-
VIRWI.

Our waggons being fe tioied on the banks
of this pond, frightened a great number of an- |
telopes which were coming to drink, and pre-
vented them from approaching us.

The bontebocks, above all, appeared in flocks
of two thoufand at leaft. I am perfuaded that
this day, including bubales, antelopes of all
kinds, zebras, and oftriches, I had before my
eyes at one time more than four or five thou-
fand animals: of all thefe, however, I wifhed
only for an oftrich ; but I could find no me-
thod of gratifying my defire, for thefe birds
would not fuffer us to approach them. The
other {pecies, though rather timid, were from
time to time within reach of a fhot; but I was
unwilling to fire for the mere pleafure of
deftroying them: we had abundance of
provifions; and my powder, eae was too
valuable.

Kia Between

136 TRAVELS.,.IN

Between us and Swellendam we had now
only two rivers: Breede-Rivier, the broad river ;
and Kiip-Rivier, or the river of flints. I was
extremely defirous of being acquainted with
this fpot, which is the principal place of the
colony: I propofed to fpend a few days in it,
and to furvey all thefe animals attentively at
my leifure. We arrived there the day follow-
ing, very early.

Of all the rivers which we had croffed, the
moft confiderable were Diep-R ivier and Breede-
Rivier. The reft are {carcely rivulets, during
the great heats; but in the rainy feafon they
are foon converted into impetuous torrents,
which cut off all communication with the Cape
Town.

At Swellendam I remained feveral days with
Mr. Ryneveld, the bailiff of the place, who
treated me with great civility and politenefs.
Finding my two carriages overloaded, and too
heavy, 1 was fenfible that it would be necefla-
ry for me to procure a third. My hoft was
kind enough to order one with two wheels to
be conftru€ted for me; and, when I departed,
he fupplied me with a large quantity of freth
provilions. | | |
| I res

AFRICA. 1 137

I recruited a few more Hottentots; and I
purchafed feveral oxen and goats; together
with a cow, to afford me milk; and a cock,
which I intended to be my natural alarum in
the morning.

There is not a fingle naturalift, nor even a
clown, in the country, who does not know that
a cock crows regularly during night at the
fame hour, and that he takes care to proclaim
the return of day.

I muft here obferve that fome have pre-
tended, in more than one public paper, to
ridicule this precaution (which procured me
pleafure, if it did not afford me a refource in
the moment of neceffity), by making me utter
abfurd fpeeches, which agree very ill with the
emphafis of the narrator. When they affured
the public that I expected to fupply by a cock
the place of my watch, fhould it happen to be
deranged, they ought alfo to have- informed
the incredulous, at leaft, in what manner a cock
can ever become a watch. In the fame ftyle
it has been faid, that, meeting a lion for the
frit time, “ we meafured each other with a
&* haughty look, and fuffered each other to pafs

é¢

quietly ;

i138 oT RAY EES oe
** quietly ; both fatisfied with our noble coun-
«¢ tenances.”

But leaving thefe poetical romances, I can
fay that my hopes in my cock were not difap-
‘pointed. This animal, which always roofted
either on my tent or my waggon, regularly
announced to me the appearance of aurora.
He foon grew tame; never quitted the neigh-
bourhood of my camp; and, if the want of
food induced him to go any: diftance, he al-
ways returned on the approach of night. .
Sometimes he was purfued by fmall quadru-.
pedes of the weafel or polecat kind; and I
have feen him, half flying and half running,
retreat towards us, making as loud a noife as
he could: but on fuch occafions fome of my
people or dogs never failed to go {peedily to
his afliftance.

Ananimalthat rendered me more effential fers
vices ; which, by its ufeful prefence, fufpended
and even diflipated certain bitter and difagreea-
ble refleGions that occurred tomy mind; which,
by its imple and ftriking inftinG, feemed to an-
ticipate my efforts; and which comforted me in
my languor—was an ape, of that kind fo com-

‘ mon

AFRICA. 139
mon at the Cape, under the name of dawzans.
As it was extremely familiar, and attached itfelf
to me in a particular manner, I made it my
tafter. When we found any fruit or roots un-
known to my Hottentots, we never touched
them until my dear Kees had firft tafted them ;
if it refufed them, we judged them to be
either difagreeable or dangerous, and threw
them away.

An ape has one peculiarity which diftin-
euifhes it from all other animals, and brings it
very near to man. It has received from nature
an equal fhare of greedinefs and curiofity:
though deftitute of appetite, it taftes without
neceflity every kind of food that is offered to
it; and always lays its paw upon every thing
that it finds within its reach. ee

‘There was another quality in Kees which I
valued ftill more. He was my beft guardian ;
and, whether by night or by day, he inftantly -
awoke on the leaft fign of danger. By: his cries,
and other expreflions of fear, we were always
informed of the approach of an enemy before
my dogs could difcover it: they were fo accuf-
tomed to his voice, that they flept in perfect
fecurity, and never went the rounds ; on which

4 account

140 TRAVELS “IN

account I was extremely angry, fearing that I
fhould no longer find that indifpenfable affift-
ance which I had aright to. expe@, if any dit.
order or fatal accident fhould deprive me of
my faithful guardian. However, when he had
once given the alarm, they all ftopped to watch
the fignal; and on the leaft motion of his eyes,
or fhaking of his head, I have feen them all
ruth forwards, and fcamper away in that quar-
ter to which they obferved his looks directed.
I often carried him along with me in my
hunting excurfions ; during which he would
amufe himfelf in climbing up trees, in order to
fearch for gum, which he was remarkably fond
of. Sometimes he difcovered honey in the
crevices of rocks, or in hollow trees; but when
he found nothing, when fatigue and exercife
had whetted his appetite, and when he began
to be ferioufly opprefled by hunger, a fcene
took place which to me appeared extremely
comic. When he could not find gum and
honey, he fearched for roots, and ate them
with much relifh ; efpecially one of a particu-
lar fpecies, which, unfortunately for me, I
found excellent and very refrefhing, and which
I greatly wifhed to partake of. But Kees was
very

AME RalvCu ns 141
very cunning : when he found any of this root,
if I wasnot near him to claim my part, he
made great hafte to devour it, having his eyes
all the time direted towards me. By the
diftance I had to go before I could approach
him, he judged of the time that he had to:eat
it alone; and I indeed arrived too late. Some-
times, however, when he was deceived in his
calculation, and when [ came upon him foon-
- er than he expected, he inftantly endeavoured
to conceal the morfels from me: but, by means
of a blow well applied, I obliged him to reftore
the theft ; and in my turn becoming mafter of
the envied prey, he was obliged to receive
laws from the flronger party. Kees enter-
tained no hatred or rancour ; and I eafily made
him comprehend how deteftable that bafe
: felfifhnefs was, of which he had fet me an
example.

To tear up thefe roots, he purfued a very
ingenious method, which afforded me much
amufement. He laid hold of the tuft of leaves
with his teeth; and prefling his fore paws
firmly againft the earth, and drawing his head
backwards, the root generally followed : when
this method, which required confiderable force,

did

142 TRAM iS + ha
did not fucceed, he feized the tuft as before, as
clofe to the earth as he could ; then throwing
his heels. over his head, the root always
yielded to the jerk which he gave it. In our
marches, when he found himfelf tired, he got
upon the back of one of my dogs, which had
the complaifance to carry him for whole hours.
together: one only, which was larger and ©
_ftronger than the reft, ought to have ferved
him for this purpofe ; but the cunning animal
well knew how to avoid this drudgery. ‘The
moment he perceived Kees on his fhoulders,
he remained motionlefs, and fuffered the cara-
van to pafs on without ever ftirring from the
{fpot. ‘The timorous Kees ftill perfifted; but
as foon as he began to lofe fight of us, he was
obliged to difmount: and both he and the dog
ran with all their might to overtakeus. For
fear of being furprifed, the dog dexteroufly
fuffered him to get before him, and watched him.
with great attention. In fhort, he had acquired
an afcendancy over my whole pack, for which
he was perhaps indebted to the fuperiority of
his infinct ; for among animals, as among
men, addrefs often gets the better of ftrength.
While at his meals, Kees could not endure
| guelts :

AR Rel Ay 143.

guefts : if any of the dogs approached too near
him at that time, he gave them a hearty blow,
which thefe poltroons never returned, but
{campered away as faft as they could.

It appeared to me extremely fingular, and I
could not account for it, that, next to the fer-
pent, the animal which he moft dreaded was
one of his own fpecies: whether it was that
he was fenfible that his being tamed had de-
prived him of great part of his faculties, and
that fear had got pofleflion of his fenfes; or
that he was jealous, and dreaded a riyalfhip in
my friendfhip. It would have been very eafly
‘for me to catch wild ones, and to tame them ;
but I never thought of it. Ihad given Kees
a place in my heart, which no other after him
could occupy; and I fufficiently teftified how
far he might depend on my conftancy. Some-
‘times he heard others of the fame fpecies mak-
ing a noife in the mountains; and, notwith-
ftanding his terror, he thought proper, I know
not for what reafon, to reply tothem. When
_ they heard his voice, they approached: but, |
as foon as he perceived any of them, he fled
with horrible cries ; and, running between our
legs, implored the protection of every body,

while

i4d op RAO Ss Ae

while his limbs quivered through fear. We
found it no eafy matter to calm him; but he
gradually refumed, after fome time, his natural
tranquillity. He was vety much additted
to thieving, a fault common to almoft all
domeftic animals; but in Kees it was dilf-
guifed into a talent, the ingenious efforts of
which I admired. Notwithftanding all the
correction beftowed upon’him by my people,
who took the matter ferioufly, he was never
amended. He knew perfectly well how to
untie the ropes of a bafket, to take provilions
from it; and, above all, milk, of which he was
remarkably fond: more than once he has
made me go without any. I often beat him
pretty feverely myfelf; but, when he efcaped
from me, he did not appear at my tent till
towards night. :

On thefe details I have dwelt with great
pleafure ; and if they are nothing to the pro-
grefs of human knowledge, they are a great
deal for my fimple and ingenuous heart. They
recal to my memory very agreeable amufe-
ments ; hours of ferenity and peace, and the
only moments of my life in which I have

known the full value of exiftence. During
the

A Wo PAG os i4g
the whole time that I refided at Swellendam,
I made a fuitable return to the tender cares of
my hoft by the moft lively teftimonies of gra-
titude: but this was not the manner of life
that fuited my humour; and as foon as my two-
wheeled waggon was finifhed, I packed up’my
kitchen furniture and my other effects, and fet
out, without delay, on the 12th of January
1782. According to the information I had
received, I direed my courfe always along
the eaftern coaft, keeping at a certain diftance
from the fea. The corn. farms do not extend
further in this quarter: the moderate price of
grain is not an equivalent for the difficulty. of
tranfporting it to the town.

Two leagues from this place I tee a {mall
river, named Bufias ; and after two days march
we arrived at a wood called the wood of the
Great Father, Whilft 1 was making prepara-
tions for fpending twenty-four hours in this
wood, which I withed to traverfe,and was count=
ing my dogs, I perceived that one was miffing,
which was a favourite bitch, named accgar
Her abfence embarrafled me very much:
was a real lofs, that reduced my pack almoft to
nothing ; and deprived me of my favourite,

VoL. L which

146 TRAV PES tLe

which on her part loved me much. Having
afked one of my people if any of them had
obferved her on the road, one of them aflured
me that he had given her fome food, but in
the morning. After a fruitlefs fearch of an hour
or two, I made my people difperfe, and call her
on all fides: I alfo ordered fome fufees to be
fired; that the reports, if they reached her,
might direct her what courfe to purfue. But as
all this: did not fucceed, I caufed one of my
Hottentots to get on horfeback, bidding him
return the fame way wehad come, and bring her
back to.me whatever it might coft. After four |
hours I had the pleafure of feeing my meflen-
ger arrive full gallop, carrying before him, on
the bow of his faddle, a chair and a large pan-
nier. Rofetta ran before him; and leaping
upon me, almoft opprefled me with her caref-
_fes. My Hottentot told me that he had found
her at the diftance of two leagues from the
place where we halted, fitting upon the road,
clofe to a chair and a bafket, which had got
loofe from our baggage without being per-
ceived, I had heard many circumftances, no
lefs extraordinary than this, related of the fide-
lity of dogs; but I had never before been a

7 witnefs

AJByR 1 CA. 147
witnefs to an inftance of it. I confefs that the
account given me by my meflenger affected
me fo much, that I fhed tears. I again carefled

the poor animal; and this mark of attachment

which fhe had given, endeared her ftill more
tome. Had fhe not been found, fhe mutt
have perifhed by hunger on the fpot, or be-«
come a prey during night to the firft ferocious
animal that might have met her. As the fufees

which I ordered to be difcharged on her ac-

count, had not roufed any game; and as [
was befides convinced, from an exact furvey
of the foreft, that I could not hope to find

' any, we proceeded on our march the next

morning.

-Scarcely had we advanced four leagues,
when, in croffing a {mall river which takes .
its fource in this foreft, my two-wheeled wag-
gon was ‘overturned. ‘The remainder of the
day was fcarcely fufficient for us to recover,
dry, and put in order, my kitchen furniture —
and necefiaries: a great part of my porcelain
being broken, was left on the fpot; but very
luckily I had more to replace it. Having
proceeded three leagues further, we were
topped by the river Duyvenochs, which at

L 2 that

148 TRAVELS IN

that time was not fordable. As this country
was covered with wood, I flattered myfelf
with the hopes of finding pretty birds and
infecis: refolving, therefore, to wait till the
river fhould decreafe, I ordered my tents to
be erected at the edge of the foreft, while my
Hottentots conftructed fome huts,

I was, however, very unlucky ; for the in-
habitants of the neighbourhood, informed of
my arrival, came with great eagernefs to pay
me a vifit, and to cifturb me in my charming
retreat. I was teafed with the long pream-
bles they made to their obliging fpeeches, in
which they reproached me for not ftopping
among them; and haraffing me with the offers
which they repeated, under a thoufand dif-
ferent forms, to prevail upon me, they men-
tioned, with much emphafis, feveral curious
travellers whom they had entertained, and
particularly Dr. Sparmann, a member of the
Swedifh Academy: but, however refpectable
this authority appeared, | thought proper not
to quit my camp. 1

I had refolved never to lodge in any habi-
tation, during the courfe of my travels, that I
might be more at freedom, both in the day-

time

AP RD CoA 149
time and in the night ; and that [ might have
my people and baggage always at hand, in
order to hufband thofe valuable moments
which one mutt always facrifice to the idle
talk and abfurd relations of thefe planters,
who fatigue you with their tales, and exhautft
you with their queftions ; but, above all, that
I might fave my fpirituous liquors, with which
I thould have been continually obliged to en-
liven their tedious converfations. I therefore
thanked thefe gentlemen, who were not able
to divert me from my purpofe, fo firm and
irrevocable was my refolution. ‘The conduct
of Dr. Sparmann was no example to me; for
_ our different views mult have given us dif-
ferent ideas: he had occafion only for day-
light, to enable him to purfue his botanical
refearches ; but as I often fpent a part of the
night in hunting, if I found it neceflary, I
fhould have been obliged to abftain from this
practice, or to derfnge my hofts. Another
motive, which is purely perfonal, may, in two
words, give an idea of my character, and of
the plan of life which it had induced me to
embrace: fhould it appear to be a mark of
felf-love, my age, the education I have re-

L 3 ceived,

150 TRAVELS Aly,
ceived, my country, and the difficulties I-
overcame, will, I hope, eafily plead my ex-
cufe. Though I acknowledge the utility of
proper highways among civilized nations, my
being accuftomed to form them myfelf, in my
youth, at Surinam, made me always confider
them as a reftraint which leffens the value of
liberty. Proud of his origin, man thinks it
an indignity that people thould beforehand
dare to number his fteps. I have always care-
fully avoided beaten tracks; and never thought
myfelf completely free, but when furrounded
by the rocks, forefts, and defarts of Africa,
I was certain of meeting with no other traces”
of human labour than thofe which I left my-
felf. By the freedom of my will, which com-
manded then with fovereign fway, and by
my complete independence, I really perceived
in man the monarch of all animated beings,
the -abfolute defpot of nature. Situations
which I thought delightful, might by others
be thought very alarming. ‘Thefe whimfical
notions proceed from the impreilions I received
in the early part of my life ; they are only
the pure and natural fentiments of liberty,
which rejects, without diftindtion, every thing
| that

We aa ts Oa | re
that feems defirous of prefcribing it bounds’
I was attached to my principles by too many
reafons not to adhere rigidly to them ; and if
I except only one inftance, when through
policy it was abfolutely impoffible for me to
-refufe an invitation, I never deviated from my
plan during all my travels.

I diftributed the employment of my time ;
and the ufual order of my occupations was aS
follows:—During the night, when we did
not travel, I flept in my tent, or in my wag-
gon: at the break of day, awakened by my
cock, | immediately got ready every thing.
myfelf for making my coffee, whilft my peo-
ple were employed in cleaning and taking
care of my animals. On the firft appearance
of the fun’s rays, I took my fufee, and fetting
out with my ape, we mate a diligent fearch
every where around till the hour of ten.
When I returned to my tent, I found it al-

ways clean and well {wept: it was under the
particular care of an old African, named
Swanepoel; who, being no-lénger capable of
following us in our excurfions on: foot, re~
mained to guard the camp, in which he pre-
ferved good order. The furniture of my tent

L A Was

152 TRAVELS »IN
was not cumberfome; one or two chairs, a table
which I employed only for diffeQing animals,
and fome utenfils neceflary for preferving them,
formed all its ornaments. I then laboured from
teno’clock till noon ; and during that interval I
claffed in my drawers the infeGis which! had
caught.—The ceremony of my dinner was
equally fimple. I placed upon my knees a piece
~ of board, covered with a cloth, upen which one

dith only of roaft or broiled meat was ferved up,

After this frugal repaft, which did not detain me
long, I returned to my labour, if | had any work
to finifh; and then I fet out to hunt till funfet,
On myreturn] lighted a candle, andpafied a few
. hours in committing to my journal my obferva-
tions, acquifitions, and in fhort all the events of

the day. During this time my Hottentots col-

le&ted my oxen around my waggons and tent,
The goats, after they were milked, lay down
here and there indifcriminatelyamong my dogs.

When bufinefs was finifhed, and a large fire

kindled, as ufual, we placed ourfelves in a circle.

round it. I drank my tea; and while my people
were cordially {moking their pipes, they told
tales, the natural humour of which often made
me fhake my fides with laughter, I took great

| -pleafure

e

AF Ril ChA 153

pleafure in encouraging them ; and in propor-
tion as I fhewed more franknefs, good-nature,
and attention, they were the lefs timid before me.
Often indeed, when in better humour, or more
favourably difpofed by the fight of a charming
evening, after the fatigues of the day, I felt my-
felf hurried away by an involuntary charm, and
I gently yielded to the illufion, [then faw them
contending who fhould fhew moft wit to pleafe
me; and the beft ftory-teller could judge fa-
vourably of his performance by the profound
filence which prevailed among us. I know not
what powerful attraction continually carries
me back to thefe peaceful fcenes. I ftill behold
myfelf in the middle of my camp, furrounded
by my people and animals: a plant, a flower,
a fragment of rock, fcattered here and there—
nothing efcapes my memory; and this f{pecta-
cle, always affeQing, every where amufes and
follows me.

Our converfations were fometimes prolong-
ed till very late at night; and I muft candidly
confefs that lively fallies which greatly delight-
ed me, often efcaped from thefe clownith
people, who had never been polifhed by edu-
cation. I afked them many queftions; above

all,

154 T RAV*FAL'S SDS
all, refpeGiing Kolben, and different authors ;
and concerning their religion, their laws, and
their cuftoms: but they openly laughed in my
face. Sometimes, taking the matter in a ferious
light, | faw them fall in a paffion, fhrug up
their fhoulders, and give ‘vent to their im-
precations. I remember that, endeavouring to
vilify their faculties and intelligence, in order to
nettle them, I compared them to thofe people
who, in the capital of a great nation like Paris,
procure without labour a genteel fubfiftence to
a prodigious number of vagabonds, honoured
with the modeft appellation of /harpers. I
reprefented to them, under a thoufand differ-
ent forms, the ingenious refources of thefe ca-
meleons, and greatly extolled their merit : but
with what fatisfaCtion did I obferve them unani-
moutly prefer the fimplicity of their rural and
peaceful life, and confider thefe refources asbafe
and fordid means, for a nation who boaft of
their fuperiority over the people of nature !—
Worthy mortals, who have been painted to us
as devouring your fellow-creatures, and whom
achild however might manage! peaceful Hot-
tentots ! treat with contempt thofe people who
reduce you to a ftate of flavery, and diftinguith
you

Av BR RF, CaaA. 155
you from brutes only by the cruelties which
they withhold from them, in order to beftow
them upon you.

My animals were fo well accuftomed to mix
among us, that I was often obliged to force
many of them to rife before I could reach my
tent. I hada few fheep, which I {pared as a
refource, in cafe of fcarcity ; but Ialways kept
fome old ones to tame the new comers.

The canton in which we refided abounded
with partridges of three different kinds ; one of
which was as large as our pheafant. This
was our ufual food. We put a {core of them
into our kettles at once, and they made excellent
foup and jelly broth. We found alfo a kind of
antelope, of the fize of our European goats; the
fkin of which was of a blackith brown colour,
with afew white {pots om the thighs. I never
found any thing more excellent eating. I
killed feveral of them; as well as of another
fpecies, much f{maller, which I fhall defcribe
hereafter. ;

My refidence in this place had confiderably
augmented my colleGiion of infects and of cu-
rious birds ; and as an inhabitant of the neigh-
bourhood, who was going to the Cape, came

to

156 TRAVELS AN

to offer me his fervices, I readily accepted
them, and begged him to deliver my {mall
treafure into the hands of Mr. Boers the fifcal.
Thad agreed with the latter that I would fend
him all my novelties as often as I could find
an opportunity: by this plan, even in the com-
mencement of my journey, I preferved many
valuable objects from the danger of accidents,
and referved room for others.

My neighbours occafionally fent me vege-
tables and fruit; and Mr. Vanwerck, who
refided nearer my camp, knowing that I was
fond of milk, fent me every evening a pailful,
which I fhared with my people. Kees always
perceived the approach of the perfon who
brought it, even at a great diftanckt, and never
failed to run to meet him.

From Swellendam, as far as Duyvenochs,
the paftures are excellent ; and the land, fupe-
rior to that of the Cape, would produce corn
in abundance: but the planters cultivate no
more than what is neceflary for their own
confumption ; and the only trade they carry
on with the Cape confifts in cattle and but-
ter. Some vineyards are found here; but, as
the wine is of a bad quality, it is converted

v into—

ALF OR 1G ia. ey

into vinegar or fpirits, which are fold in the
neighbourhood.

On the 27th of the month, perceiving that
the river had fubfided much, we croffed it
without fuftaining any damage. ‘We crofled
alfo the river Falfe ; and, after a march of thir-
teen hours, arrived at the river of Gous or
Gourits: at the ‘latter, however, we were
{topped ; for we found it impofiible to crofs it,
as it was larger than the Seine oppofite the
king’s garden at Paris. Great ftorms muft
have inundated the country through which it
flows; for at that feafon it is. generally, like
the reft, only a-rivulet which may be eafily
forded. Its banks abound with large thorny
trees *, and with great numbers of partridges ;.
_ particularly of that large fpecies which the
inhabitants of the Cape call pheafants. After
remaining encamped three days, obferving no
decreafe in the river, and being always impa-
tient to penetrate fill farther, I found only
one method of extricating myfelf from my
embarraflment. I refolved to caufe a large
raft to be conftrudted; and, having cut
down fome trees, we employed the bark of

* The Adimofa Nilotica.

them

158 TRAV ELS ae

them to make ropes. But to what labour did
this fatal operation fubje&t us! We were ob-
lized to unload our carriages, to take off their
wheels, and to embark them piece by piece.
All my animals croffed by fwimming ; and in
feveral paflages I reached the oppofite fhore,
with my people and effects, without the {malleft
diforder, or the leaft accident. This attempt,
which was attended with wonderful fuccefs,
gave me great confidence refpecting the futures
and tended greatly to increafe my courage.—
This operation, however, coft us three days
continued labour; during which time I was
obliged to fufpend my hunting excurfions. I
mytfelf {et an example to the reft, and handled
the axe like the meaneft of my Hottentots. 1
judged the precaution of removing a little
farther very neceflary to our common fafety ;
for the banks of the river which we had quit-
ted were fo parched and fo barren, that all my
oxen muft have died of hunger.

Our carriages being remounted, and well
loaded, we continued our journey, and tra-’
velled fourteen leagues in two days, when
we found ourfelves oppofite Moffe/-Baie, or
Mufcle Bay, which in charts is called the

Bay

AFRICA 4 fieg

Bay of Saint Blaife. It is very difficult for
fhips here to approach the coaft, on account
of the fharp rocks that border it, the bafes: of
which extend a good way into the fea; but
on the northern fide there is a {mall beach,
where boats may land with great cafe. The
environs of this country are interfperfed with
excellent plantations, which might be a great
refource for fhips that come hither to water :
a falubrious fpring, diftant about a thoufand
paces from the fea, would fupply them with
abundance of water. During our abode in
this bay, we found no want of oyfters. We
often fifhed with a line, and this method -
alone procured us a great many excellent
fifth ; what we could not confume, I ordered
to be dalted. Every night we were alarmed
with the cries of hyxnas, which appeared to
be very furious animals: our oxen were
much difturbed by them; but by means of
large fires, with which we furrounded our
camp, they were prevented from attempting
to approach. us.

At the diftance of a league, I found a
kraal, confifting of four huts, in which was
a Hottentot family, not exceeding twenty-five

OY

160 TRAVELS AN
or thirty perfons, to whom I gave a fmall
quantity of tobacco in exchange for fome
mats, which I was very glad to procure. ‘This
difcovery gave me great pleafure, both on
account of the profit which I derived from
it, as well as of the agreeable furprife it oc-
cafioned. I took great delight in contem-
plating them, for a long time, in their peace-
ful occupations. ‘They pofleffed five milch
cows, and a {mall flock of fheep. In the
~ Yabouring feafon, the men difperfed them-
felves over the neighbouring plantations, where |
by their indufiry they amafled enough to
procure themfelves tobacco, and to’ render
their fituation more comfortable. ‘They af-
fured me that, in the large woods with
which the fides of all the mountains in this
country are covered, elephants and buffaloes
were fometimes to be met with. Upon this
intelligence I immediately began to fearch the
mountains and forefts ; but my Jabour was in
vain, for neither I nor my people could dif-
cover any of them. I perceived, indeed, the
prints of the fect of elephants, but they had
been made long before; from which I gueffled,
what was afterwards told me, that if chance
at

| AOE RI Cha 168
at arly time brings one of thefe animals into
this country, the inhabitants affemble, and
oblige it to betake itfelf to Aight, if they can-
not deftroy it.

On the 7th, at five in the morning, I quit-
ted Mufcle Bay, and at two in the afternoon
crofled a river called Kiein-Brak; it has its
fource in a wood, rifing on a ridge of moun-
tains, which in this place is only a league
diftant from the fea. Next morning we ar-
rived at a large river, of the fame name,
which is no more than three leagues from the
former. ‘The flowing of the tide renders the
water of this river brackifh: to crofs it with-
out danger, we were obliged to wait for the
ebb-tide ; and during that interval I procured
feveral fea~fowls, which were extremely abun-
dant in this canton. I found here thoufands
of pelicans and famingoes; the deep rofe-
colour of the one, and the dull white of the
other, exhibited a contraft altogether new and
curious.

After quitting the river, we had to climb
a fteep and rugged mountain, which at firft
frightened me a good deal; but by the help of
Patience, care, and time, we left it behind us.

Vou. I, M When

we =. OTR AVELS AN

When we had entirely reached its fummit, we
were well repaid for all our fatigue, by the
noble view which opened on our fight; we
had here an opportunity of admiring the
moft beautiful country in the univerfe. Ata
diftance we difcovered that chain of moun-
tains, covered with lofty forefts, which bound-
ed our profpe&t towards the weft; and
under us we beheld an immenfe valley,
adorned with agreeable hills, variegated in an
infinite number of fhapes, and which extend
in an undulating manner as far as the fea.
Enamelled meads, and the moft beautiful paf-
tures, ftill added to this magnificent fcene,
with which I was truly enchanted. ‘This
country bears the name of Auteniqua; which,
in the Hottentot idiom;-fignifies a man loaded
with honey. One indeed cannot proceed a
ftep here without feeing a thoufand {warms
of bees: the flowers on which they feed {pring
up in myriads ; the mixed odours which ex-
hale from them, and which yield a delightful
gratification to the fmell—their colours, their
variety, and the pure and cool air which one
breathes—all engage your attention, and fuf-

“. pend your courfe. Nature has made thefe

enchanting

fh PGR TC) A: 163
enchafiting regions like a fairy land. The
calices of all thefe flowers abound with ex-
cellent juices, from which the bees compofe
their honey: they depofit it every where
around, in hollow rocks and trees. My peo-
ple were extremely defirous of ftopping fome
time in this charming retreat, but I was afraid
it would be to them what Capua was to
Annibal’s foldiers. Without lofs of time,
therefore, I gave orders for continuing our
journey, and haftened towards the river Wet-
Els, which takes its name from the woods
that grow on its banks. From the large
brackifh river to this place, we had travelled
only feven leagues,

On the 9th, we crofled feveral {mall rivu-
lets, which, flowing down from the moun-
- tains, run into the fea through an hundred
different channels.

All the ftreams of thefe rivulets have the
amber colour of Madeira wine, and I found
that their tafle was ferruginous; but I did
not take time to examine whether this tafte
and colour proceeded from their flowing
through fome mine in their paflage, or from
the roots and leaves of trees which they water,
: M 2 | en and

164. TRAVELS UN

and carryalong with them. From this place the
laft poft belonging to the Company was not
far diftant, and we arrived at it after a quick
march of three hours. I was now about to
withdraw myfelf from the dominion of man,
and to approach a little towards his original
condition.

Mr. Mulder, the commander, came to re-
ceive me, and fhewed me every mark of
friendfhip. He has under him only a fubal-
tern officer, and about fifteen men, who have
all been either foldiers or failors on board the
Company’s fhips. ‘Thele people cut down all
the timber they have occafion for, and con-
{tru the carriages deftined to tranfport it:
which is a very abfurd plan ; for if this timber
were depofited at Mufcle Bay, a paltry bark
might in one voyage carry more to the Cape,
than would be conveyed on carriages in thirty
years: this would afluredly be a confiderable
faving to the Company, and a general benefit
to the colonies. I may add alfo that the in-
habitants of the Cape would not find them-
felves reduced to the neceflity of burning
{mall wood, which they colle& at a great
expence every where around, by flaves who

have

RORCR TiCh As | 165
have no other employment ; a method which
cofts at leaft the double of what is paid for the
fineft wood in the timber-yards at Paris.

Can it be believed that the ‘direCtors of the
Company, for their own ufe, fhould order
fhips to be fent every year from Amfterdam,
loaded with planks and boards of every kind,
whilft in this country there are immenfe fo-
refts, and the moft beautiful trees in the world?
This abfurdity, however, is not at all afto-
nifhing. The Company gratuitoufly furnifhes
the governor and all the officers with whatever
wood they have occafion for, and it is deli-
vered to them at their houfes, without any
expence; the governor therefore has no
‘perfonal intereft to extend his views to this
part of the adminiftration, and to abolifh an
abufe fo prejudicial to the colony.

The whole country of Auteniqua, from the
chain of mountains to the fea, is inhabited by
feveral planters, who rear a quantity of cattle,
make butter, cut down timber, and collect
honey, all of which they tranfport to th
Cape. :

I was in fome meafure filled with indigna-
tion to. fee people, who have wood within

M 3 their

é

166 TRAVELS: om

their reach, employ it in commerce, and not
have the courage to build for themfelves ha-
bitable houfes. They live in wretched habi-
tations, conftructed of wicker-work daub-
ed over with clay: the fkin of a buffalo,
fixed at the four corners to as many ftakes,
ferves them for a bed; and the door, which
is at the fame time a window, is fhut by a
mat; while two or three mutilated chairs, a
few pieces of plank, a kind of table, and a
pitiful box two feet {quare, form all the fur-
niture of thefe real huts. ‘Thus is the picture
of the moft profound mifery contrafted with
the charms of this terreftrial paradife; for the
beauties of thefe regions, which I have already
fketched out, extend even beyond Auteni-
qua.

Thefe people however live well; they have
game and falt-water fifh in abundance; and
enjoy exclufively, over all the other cantons
of thefe colonies, the advantage of having the
whole year, without interruption, vegetables
and plants of every kind in their gardens,
For thefe valuable advantages they are in-
debted to the excellence of the foil, and to
its being naturally watered by fmall ftreams,

a which

#
ff

ARREC A. 164
which crofs each other in a thoufand different
direCtions, arfd,as one may fay, lay the four
feafons under contribution to fertilize it. This
country may juftly be called the Limagne*
of Africa. Thefe fireams, which never dry
up in this delightful territory, proceed from
a caufe well known. The high mountains
towards the eaft, which are covered with
forefts, ftop the clouds and the fogs carried by
the eaft wind from the fea, and this occafions
very abundant rains.

_ It feemed favourable to my views that I
fhould remain fome days here with the com- |
mander; and this is the only inftance in
which I deviated from my plan. Befides
particular motives which induced me to take
this ftep, I was detained by political reafons,
and I could not refufe his invitation with any
kind of decency : an order had been every
where fent to fuffer me to pafs, to affift me,
and to furnifh me with every thing that I
fhould have occafion for, As Mr. Mulder
occupied the laft poft, he had received more

* A territory of France, in Lower Auvergne, lying
along the river Allier. It is one of the fineft and moit
fertile plains in France. T.

M 4 | pofitive

168 TRAVELS ‘IN

pofitive orders than the reft, and I could not
help complying with his wifhes : the honour-
able motives of his behaviour were to me a
fufficient invitation; and perhaps he himfelf
depended upon the teftimony which my gra-
titude would give in his favour, when I re-
turned to the Cape.

As foon as I arrived at his habitation, I
began, according to cuftom, to examine the
neighbourhood. In traverfing the woods, I
found the traces of buffaloes and elephants,
which appeared to be very frefh; I faw alfo
fome of their dung: and obferved a great num-
ber of different birds, none of which I had
hitherto met with, and among others feveral
touracos. Lefs than this would have been
fufficient to detain me in this fpot. At the
diftance of four or five leagues from the place
where Mr. Mulder refided, I found, on the
edge of a wood, a very commodious and con-
venient fpot for fixing my camp.

As Mr. Mulder was about to depart for the
Cape, he fupplied me with twenty pounds of
gunpowder ; I embraced this opportunity alfo
to write to my friends, and to fend Mr. Boers
about an hundred birds, and a {mall box of

infects,

APR IGA: 169

infects. I increafed my train with a few
oxen, engaged three more Hottentots, pur-
chafed a young horfe, which I propofed to
breed myfelf to hunting ; and on the oth
of February bid adieu to Mr. and Mrs. Mul-
der, in order to take poffeflion of my foreft,
and to eftablifh myfelf in the fpot which I
had made choice of. |

I had beforehand fent my people to prepare
‘the place, to cut down fome trees, and to clear
away the bufhes with which the ground was
covered, that on my arrival I might be able to
erect my tents, which I accomplifhed in a mo-
ment. My kitchen was eftablifhed under a
large tree, that feemed to have grown old
there on purpofe; and my Hottentots, on their
part, built and arranged a few huts as well as.
they could. At thediftance of ten paces from
us we had a {mall ftream of water, pure as
cryftal ; and oppofite a little hill, covered with
excellent grafs for our horfes and oxen; by
thefe means we kept them always near us.
So many advantages united, rendered this an ©
agreeable refting place: but unluckily we
were obliged to remove feveral times; as the
game of all kinds, rendered thy by our conti-

nual

170 TRAVEDS! ALN

nual purfuits, began to grow {carce, and- would
have retired from us,altogether.

I was fometimes vilited by the inhabitants
of this diftri& ; which enabled me to procure
a fufficiency of. fruits, vegetables, milk, and
of every thing elfe they could fupply me
with : their vifits indeed coft me fome bottles
of fpirits; but as I deteft thefe noxious liquors,
and never drank of them, this attraétion re-
tained them a little, and the impreflion’ which
they made on my cafks was not deadly. _

I conje€tured that the wood near which I
had placed my camp, would furnifh me with
fome touracos. As I was not acquainted with
thefe birds, and had never feen one of them, I
went in fearch of them, and was lucky enough
to difcover'a few. I fpent a long time in
purfuing them, but without effe@; for as thefe
birds perch always on the extremities of the
higheft branches, I never found them within
‘the reach of my fufee. .One afternoon,
however, I followed one, and did more exe-
cution. Hopping from fpray to fpray, fill
going only a little way from me, it deceived
me for more than an hour, and conduéted me
to a great diftance; till being out of patience

with

AF R LC. 3 19t
with its fport, and finding that I could not
approach it, I fired, though I concluded it to
be out of my reach, and had the fatisfaction
of feeing it drop. My joy on this occafion
was inexpreflible: but the moft difficult part
was not yet accomplifhed ; it was neceflary
for me to feize my prey; and, as I had remark-
ed the place where it fell, I rufhed through the
bufhes to take it up, at the expence of having
my legs and hands torn, and all covered with
blood. When I reached the fpot, I faw no-
thing; and though I carefully fearched every
where around, going backwards and forwards
twenty times over the fame places, clofely
examining the fmalleft holes and crevices, my
labour was fruitlefs, for | could not find my
touraco, My refearches and reflections led
me to think that I had perhaps broken only
one of its wings, which had not prevented it
to get away from the fpot where it had fal-
len. Full of this idea, I went a little farther,
and began again to fearch all the environs for
more than half an hour; but fill no touraco.
This difappointment reduced me almoft to a
flate of defpair; and the thick bufhes and
prickly fhrubs, which fcratched even my face,

4 had

172 DRAV,E L.S:: oN

had really agitated me with tranfports difficult
to be defcribed. To fatiate my anger, I am
fenfible that nothing lefs would have been
fufficient at that moment than to purfue a lion
oratiger. That a paltry bird, which I had
brought down after fo many difficulties, and fo
much defire for it, fhould efcape and thus va-
nifh from my fight, was truly diftrefling. Un-
able to contain my paffion, I began to ftamp,
and to beat the ground with my fufee; but the
earth finking fuddenly below me, I difappear-
ed alfo, and fell with my arms into a pit twelve
feet in depth. My aftonifhment, and the
hurt I received by my fall, foon made me for-
eet my anger; and! found myfelf at the bot-
tom of one of thofe covered {nares which the
Hottentots employ to catch ferocious animals,
particularly elephants. When I recovered —
from my furprize, I began to confider how I
fhould extricate myfelf from this embarraff-
ment, extremely happy that I had not been
impaled on the fharp-pointed flake placed in
the bottom of the pit, and flill happier that I
found in it no company. I was however
apprehenfive that {ome might arrive every mo-
ment; eipecially if I fhould be obliged to re-

main

fe Bo Py Ora. iy

main there during the night. Its approach
began to fill me with great terror; as it oppofed
and retarded the only refource I had devifed
to fave myfelf from the fatal pit, without the
affiftance of others. This refource was to dig
away the earth on one fide with my fabre and
my hands, in order to form a kind of fteps;
but as fuch an operation might be very tedious,
I formed, though under the moft difmal per-
plexity, the wifer refolution of loading my
fufee, and of firing fhot after fhot in hopes
that I might be heard at my camp. I from.
time to time liftened with the utmoft anxiety,
and a palpitating heart ; and at length had the
fatisfaction of hearing two reports, which in-
fpired me with the utmoft joy. I then con-
tinued to fire by intervals, to direét thofe who
had anfwered me which way to purfue their
courfe ; and foon after I faw them arrive, all
completely armed, but full of trouble and un-
eafinefs. They had imagined that I was purfued.
by fome ferocious animal; but they faw me, on
the contrary, in the moft pitiful fituation, and
caught foolithly like a fox. Their alarm, how-
ever, was foon diffipated ; they immediately cut
along pole, which they let down to me; and by

means

174 TRAV E LS) AN

means of this expedient I glided up in the
beft manner I could, and reached the brink
of the pit. This trifling accident, from which
heaven would not have faved me as -it faved
young Danicl, did not make me forget my
touraco. With my dogs, which had follow=
ed my. Hottentots, I trufted I fhould be able
to difcover it, in whatever place it might: be
concealed: fending them out, therefore, on the
fearch, they found it fquatted down under a
tufted bufh. I inftantly laid my hands upon
it; and the pleafure of at length poflefling
this charming animal, foon obliterated from
- my mind the dangers and embarraffment it
had coft me. }

I afterwards procured as many of them as I
wifhed: I even caught them all alive; for
having remarked, in the ftomach of this one,
the fruits on which they principally feed, I
always had recourfe to the trees which pro-
duced thefe fruits, whether I withed to fire or
to lay {nares for them.

This bird, as agreeable by its form as by
its colour and notes, which are very diftina,
unites nimblenefs to elegance ; all its motions
are lafcivious, and its attitudes full of grace.

Its

AFRICA. 175

Its colour is a bright grafs green; a beautiful
tuft of the fame colour, bordered with white,
ornaments its head; its eyes, which are of a
lively red, are crowned with eyebrows of a daz-
zling white; and its wings are of the moft
beautiful purple, which changes to a. violet,
according to the attitudes it affumes, or the
point of view under which it is feen.

Naturalifts have very improperly claffed this
bird among the cuckows, with which it has
no relation whatever. The cuckow, in every
~ country of the world, is a bird that feeds only
on caterpillars, infects, &c. but the touraco
feeds on fruits. ik

The cuckow, in every cone never lays
but in the nefts of other birds; which, by
thefe means, fhe loads with the bea of
hatching her young: the touraco, more affec-
tionate and more careful of its family, con-
ftructs its own neft, where it lays its eggs and
hatches them itfelf.

Thefe two characters are fufficient to form
a fpecies entirely diftin& from the cuckow ;
but I fhall refume this fubje@t, and ni
upon it, in my ornithology.

In thofe intervals when the heavy rains or

exceflive

136 TRAVEES Arn

exceflive heats feemed to compel me not to g6
abroad, which was however very rare, I did
not, on that account, {pend my time in indo-
lence. I employed myfelf, in my tent, in
making {nares to catch animals alive, of every
fpecies. It will hardly be believed that I in-
vented a method of procuring them with my
fufee, more entire and in much better condi-
tion than thofe which I caught in my {nares:
it was in this manner, however, that I pro-
— cured the fmalleft and moft delicate birds.

Tt is highly neceflary that every naturalift
who labours himfelf in forming a collection,
fhould be acquainted with the method which I
invented. This expreffion is not too bold; my
idea is abfolutely new, for I never heard that
any perfon ever thought of it before me.

The manner in which I proceeded was as fol-
lows: I put a {mailer or larger quantity of pow-
der into my fufee, according as circumftances
might require. Immediately above the powder
I placed the end of a candle about an inch in
thicknefs, ramming it well down ; after which
I filled the barrel with water up to the mouth.
By thefe means, at the proper diftance, when I
fired at a bird, I only ftunned it, by watering

: and

AFR LOA 177
and moiftening its feathers ; and, as I inftantly
laid hold of it, no time was left for it to fpoil
its plumage by fluttering. ‘The water, impelled
by the powder, went dire€tly to the mark; but
the piece of tallow, being lighter than thewater,
did not reach fo far. In my firft attempts it
often happened, that having fometimes fired
too near, or put too much powder, or too thick
_a piece of candle, I found the latter entire in
the animal’s belly ; but after a fhort appren-
ticefhip I made no more miftakes, and never
miffed my aim. Ihave often let my fufee re-
main charged in this manner from morning
till night ; yet the powder was never damaged,
nor did the piece go off lefs readily. It may
be eafily guefled that I never fired horizon-
tally in this manner.

One day, after my return to Europe, be-
ing at the houfe of a friend, 1 happened to
mention before fome ftrangers this method
which I have defcribed. One of them, who
durft not flatly contradi& me, or openly avow
his incredulity, endeavoured to prove to the
-reft, by very-clear arguments, that my affer-
tion was at leaft exaggerated. Whilft they
were dilfputing, I retired without being per-

Vou. I, N ceived

178 FRAV.ELS@IEN

ceived by the company; and having prepareda
fufee according to my own manner, I returned
through the garden to the window, where thefe
geniicmen were continuing their difpute. Point-
ing with my finger to a little bird perched near
them, I took aim and fired at it, upon which it
fell. [immediately feized it; and, delivering it
alive into the hands of my eutecate put an
end to all his fine reafoning.

Towards the end of the month we were.
much impeded by new rains, which continued
along time, and almoft without intermiffion.
Thefe ftorms fucceeded each other with great
rapidity: the lightning fell feveral times in the
foreft near us; the water gained upon us on
all fides ; and, to add to the difagreeablenefs of
our fituation, our camp was in one night en-
tirely overflown: we therefore quitted the
wood, and went to eftablith ourfelves on fome
higher fpot in the open country. I now faw,
with the utmoft uneafinefs, that it would be
impotlible for us to get out of this place in
which we were furrounded: thofe {mall rivulets,
which had before appeared to us fo pleafant
and agreeable, were changed into furious tor-
rents, which carried fand, trees, and fragments

of

: AFRICA. 179
6f rock along with them. I was fenfible that,
unlefs I expofed myfelf to the greateft dangers,
it would be impradticable to crofs them. On the
other hand my oxen, harafled and chilled with
cold, had deferted my camp ; nor did I know
how or which way to fend after them to catch
them. My fituation was far from being com-
fortable ; and I pafled many moments in great
dejeftion. My poor Hottentots, fatigued and
fick, began already to murmur. We had no
more provifions, and no more game: what we
killed was fearcely fufficient for our fubfiftence ;
becaufe, confined by the torrent, which in-
creafed more and more every day, we had not
even the refource of our neighbours to obtain
affiftance. How afflicting our condition with
fuch preparation! One might have faid that
an univerfal deluge was about to inundate
Africa. Ihowever kept part of my apprehen-
fions to myfelf; whilft I beheld my fad compa-
nions caft their reftlefs looks towards me, and
attelt by their filence what fears they enter-
tained for themfelves. Never did a profpec
appear under more gloomy colours: our
charming walks, laid waite by-the waters,
Were in an inftant ravaged; and thofe delight-

N 2 ful

180 TRAVELS “IN

ful gardens were changed into a difmal arid
inhofpitable defart. In this diftrefs, collecting
all my forces, I entreated my friends to fearch,
at leaft, for our loft and difperfed oxen; and to
refolve to crofs one of the torrents, whatever
might be the confequence. By the ftrangeft |
caprice of fortune, the fatal event which threat-
ened us with fudden deftrution, was in part
the occafion of our fafety. One of my Hot-
tentots, in fearching fora paflage, perceived
in the middle of the water a buffalo, which
had probably been drowned the evening be-
fore, for it was {till very frefh: on this dif-
covery he came, with fhouts of joy, to convey
us the agreeable intelligence; and nothing in-
deed could have arrived more feafonably. We
drew the animal to the fhore, not without
confiderable danger; cut it to pieces on the
fpot; and, having carried away the foundeft
parts, left the reft to my dogs, which, having
fafted a long time, found great. relief in this
reirefhment. We faw them return from their
repaft with their bellies fo full that they could
fcarcely walk. I cannot help mentioning
another circumftance, as it will tend to con-
vey a ftill better idea of the dreadful fituation

to

A PoRsHG Ao + 181

to which we were reduced. Theie dogs, which
were now like walking fkeletons, watching our
motions, followed clofely at our heels whenever
_any of us retired to eafe the wants of nature ;
and I have feen them fight defperately with
one another for this difoufting nourifhment.
Nothing in this life is durable; and a period
is allotted to misfortunes as well as ta feltcity,
The end of March brought a change in the
weather; the rains became lefs frequent, the
torrents decreafed ; and I difpatched four Hot-
tentots in queft of my oxen, which they
brought almoft all back, after an abfence of
four days. Some of them had returned the
way we came, and had even repaffed the large
brackifh river; others had taken fhelter in
different plantations, and fome had fhifted for
themfelves in the beft manner they could.—
Four of them, however, were mifling, which
my people could not find, nor did I ever after-
wards hear any accounts of them. Without
delay I prepared to quit this inhofpitable coun-
try, and to tranfport my camp three leagues
farther, to a hill named Pampoen-Kraal. I
took advantage of two days of fine weather to
dry my effects, great part of which were moift
N 3 and

182 T RA Vee ES te

and half rotten; and the fkin of the buffalo
which we had flayed, ferved to renew the
traces of my waggons and carriages, which
the moifture had rendered unfit for fervice.
Notwithftanding thefe continual rains, and my
cruel difappointments, I was ftill capable Of
making fome efforts. I had found in the
woods an old tree, the trunk of which was
hollow ; and I went thither with my fufee
almoft every day, to watch for fuch fmall birds
Or game as might appear. I was there fhel-
tered at leaft from the rain, and I fupported
my courage with hope. From this facred niche
I brought down, without mercy, every thing
that prefented itfelf before me. Thus the ftudy
_of Nature engaged my attention, in preference
to more prefling wants. Continually inflamed
with the powerful defire of robbing her of her
treafures, [ was dying with hunger, and yet
thought of my collections. In fpite of all obfta-
cles I faw my riches gradually increafe: I had
acquired a {mall collection of rare objeéts en-
tirely unknown in Europe, which I expofed to |
the air; and I found that they were not fo |
much damaged by the moifture as the reft
of my efieAs. In this wood we found no

game

Apter tes. |. EBa

game but the bofbock antelope, and a {maller
{pecies, of which I have alread yfpoken. On
the plain, befides the three fpecies of par-
tridges above-mentioned, we obferved another
called the red pheafant, becaule its feet and the
naked fkin of its throat are of that colour.
Of carnivorous animals we faw tigers and
hyenas, but not a fingle lion:

The heavens became every day more and
more ferene, and feemed to prefage that our
fituation would foon be as happy as it had
been miferable and gloomy. The hill of Pam-
poen-Kraal, on which I had placed my camp,
pleafed me much. Not far from my tent
{tood a {mall eminence, crowned by a thicket
of thirty or thirty-five feet in diameter. The
trees and fhrubs of which it was compofed, in
growing had fo interwoven their branches,
that the whole appeared as one very thick and
bufhy body. Having imagined that I might
convert it into a little palace, I ordered a path
to be traced out to its center, and the branches
to be lopped off on each fide to the height of
a man, fo as to afford an eafy paflage. Inthe
middle of the thicket, by the force of labour

and employing the hatchet, we were able to

N 4 cut

184 TRAVELS “tm

cut out two chambers perfeatly {quare ; in one
of which I placed my table and my chair: this
‘was my ftudy. The fecond I ornamented
with my kitchen utenfils: but this did not
prevent me from ufing it at the fame time as
a dining room. Thefe two apartments, natu-
rally covered with branches and leaves im-
penetrably thick, afforded me a delightful and
cool retreat, when haraffed and covered with
fweat and duft, after my hunting excurfion in
the morning, I retired from the heat of the
day, and the fcorching rays of the fun. When
fatigue had fharpened my appetite, what de-
lightful repafts! when fleep ftole upon me,
what voluptuous and gentle repofe!—Ye fump-
tuous grottoes of our financiers! ye Englith
gardens twenty times changed with the wealth
of the citizen! why do your ftreams, your caf-
cades, your pretty ferpentine walks, your
broken bridges, your ruins, your marbles, and
all your fine inventions, difguft the tafte and
fatigue the eye, when we know the verdant
and natural bower of the Pampoen-Kraal ?

~ Whatever it coft me to abandon this amia-
ble {olitude, I was however obliged to. think
of departing. One day having traverfed the

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Encampment at Pampoen Kraal.

A FORIVC! A. 135

whole neighbourhood, to difcover what route
I ought to purfue, in order to travel with
the greateft eafe and fafety, I found, at the
diftance of a league from my camp, a very
rapid torrent, named Kayman’s Hole; but 1
know not for what reafon, as in all this
country I never obferved either a kayman or
a crocodile. This torrent flowed from two
mountains not very high, but exceflively fteep:
en my right I had the fea, at the diftance of
about a thoufand paces; and on my left
mountains and woods, which it was impoflible
for me to pafs with my cattle and carriages :
no other refource therefore remained for me,
but to crofs the dangerous Kayman’s Hole. On
this account I was very uneafy, and even
vexed. Let the reader imagine to himfelf my
fituation—ftopped thus at every ftep; and,
when one obftacle was overcome, feeing new
ones ftill rife before me, while I was fully fenfi-
ble of the neceflity of penetrating farther, The
torrent appeared to me too much {welled,
and too rapid, to attempt to crofs it. I was,
above all, afraid for my oxen; and rafts could
only have been employed in tranfporting my
effects. I was therefore obliged to arm my-

| felt

186 TRAV.ELS{ AN
felf with patience, and to wait a more favour-
able opportunity.

On the 18th of April I received an ompcae
from Mr. Mulder, who, having returned from
the Cape, conveyed to me fome letters which
he had brought along with him, and which
were in anfwer to thofe I had entrufted to his
care in the beginning of February. I found
that my friends were very uneafy for my fate,
and wifhed me to return. Others exhorted me
to perfevere ; and, fitting at eafe by their fire
fides, gave themfelves little trouble concerning
obftacles, provided my journey could prove of
utility to fcience; or, without going fo far, fup-
ply food for their curiofity, in fables related
after their manner. I found each of them in-
terefted according to his particular views: but
I refolved to follow my original plan. It may
be eafily imagined how much the bad feafon
had retarded my progrefs, fince I had fcarcely
travelled cight leagues during the time which
Mr. Mulder employed in his journey to the |
Cape. In a letter which this gentleman wrote
to me, he appointed a place of meeting, and
propofed that we fhould amufe ourfelves a few
days wth fifhing on the fea fhore, if fuch

4 an

A FeRirG A. 187

an excurfion would not derange me: he pro-
mifed to bring with him nets, and every thing
neceflary for our {pending a week together on
the coaft ; and he likewife informed me that
his wife would be one of the party. This
propofal gave me great pleafure; and, foon
after the arrival of the meffenger, Mr. and
Mrs. Mulder made their appearance, accom-
panied by an officer next under Mr. Mulder
in command. One might have compared
them to fo many patriarchs on a journey.

‘The latter on the bow of his faddle, over his,

piftols, carried a young child four months old,
which was fuckled by his wife. ‘They were
all four on horfeback. His carriage, with his
nets and baggage, had gone to wait for us
on the fea fhore. Having ordered one of
mine to be got ready alfo, 1 loaded it with
my tent, one or two empty cafks, and every
thing that I conceived would be ufeful to us
for our miraculous fithing. When we reached
the fhore, after a few compliments and the
ufual ceremonies, we caft our nets feveral times
into the water, but always in vain;-we fcarcely
caught any thing: and this exercife afforded
amufement to nobody. Refolving, therefore,

to

188 TR AWE DS aew

to proceed a little further, to a {mall lake
formed by the tide, where we hoped to be
more fuccefsful, we began to march forwards ;
but, as I was much lefs curious in fifhes than
in birds, I fhould have been foon tired of our
port, had not the politenefs of my friends,
and the open and eafy gaiety of the ladies,
engaged a little of my attention. 1 however
rambled a good deal about on foot, from one
fide to another, exploring every part around
with eager eyes, and not fuffering either the air,
the roads, or the trees to efcape me. Having ar-
rived at the borders of the lake, I fought for
a commodious {pot where I might erect my
tents: but an alarm, which we little thought
of, had nearly deranged all our grotefque ca~
valcade. In crofling a {pot covered with very
high and thick reeds, the workmen all of a
fudden came upon a buffalo, which had lain
down there to reft. They were fo near, that
the animal, as much frightened as they by this
unexpected apparition, in retiring threw down
the horfe of the under commander, and that
of his wife. The confternation now became
general; every one endeavoured to fly, and

to make off as faft as poffible. Mr. Mulder’s
; people,

people, who were not much accuftomed to
buffaloes, being nearer the water, plunged
into it up to the neck. Mine, better trained to
hunting, affumed a bold look; but the animal,
{cared by the fight of fo many people on all
fides, and not knowing where to fly, remained
motionlefs, pofted againft an enormous rock.
On hearing the noife, I immediately ran up;
but unluckily [ had no other arms except my
double-barrelled fufee. It was not to be fup-
pofed that an ordinary ball would kill a buf-
falo. I however ventured to approach him,
and to fire. As foon as I had difcharged my
piece he quitted his pofition, and in a furious
manner came firaight towards me; but a
fecond ball, which hit him, inftantly damped
his courage: he turned round, and paffling
near one of my oxen, which carried our
kitchen apparatus, difcharged all his fu-
ry on this peaceful animal, gave it two
blows in the belly with his horns, and foon
difappeared. I could not prevail upon the
company to remain longer in this place.
The hufbands feared much for their wives;
and, as I judged by their difordered looks that
they were really affected by theiz tender alarms,

3 I advifed

190 TRAVELS ALN

I advifed them to return to our firft fifhing
place on the fea fhore. In our fecond attempt
fortune became more favourable; and we had
the fatisfation of catching fo great a quantity
of fith, that I ordered fome of them to be falt-
ed, and to be packed into my cafks, whilft
Mr. Mulder imitated my example. This fport,
which continued eight whole days, and the
occupations which it gave us, amufed us indeed
much more than I had expected. From time
to time I abfented myfelf for a little, and I
killed feveral rare birds; but Iwas not under the
neceflity of contending with a fecond buffalo.
~ When we falted all our fith, we divided our
provifion, and took leave of one another: but
I confefs that I could not leave thefe worthy
people without regret; for they had enlivened
our little excurfion with a good humour fo
natural, fo fimple, and fo mild. With my
eyes I followed their little caravan ; and I did
not depart until I had entirely lof& fight of
them.

When I returned to my camp, I found —
every thing in order; my cattle properly taken
care of, and my people employed on their

duty,

4 A FER GA. IQ
duty, for which I teftified to them my fatif-
faction. |
I committed to the care of Mr. Mulder all

the animals I had preferved fince I difpatched
my laft cargo, as well as the living touracos
Thad caught in fnares; which he promifed
to tranfmit to Mr. Boers at the Cape. He had
alfo the complaifance to give me one of his
nets, and to fend me a pair of wheels which
I afked from him. As my cart was very in=
convenient, and always in danger of being
everturned, I refolved to mount it in the
fame manner as the reft of my carriages,—
This being a work of great neceflity, we fet
about it immediately ; and every one took a
fhare in the labour. ‘The timber requilite for
this operation was foon cut out; and in lefs
than a fortnight our cart, transformed into
a wageon, rolled upon four wheels. It did not
indeed in its conftruCtion difplay the hand of a
mafter ; but it anfwered my purpofe as well ;
and I muft obferve that the whole fortnight
was not employed in altering it. When I
perceived that it went well, and that my cart-
wrights would acquire honour by it, I fent
a de-

%

192 TRAVELS 1 @N
a detachment of my people to the neighbour-
hood of the torrent, which we were about to
pafs, with orders to fill up the fiffures, and re-
_ pair the highways which the waters had fpoilt:
I made them carry ftones and large branches
of trees with them, to render the quagmires
paflable; which, without this precaution, might —
have disjointed, and even broken, my carriages.
When by the force of excefiive labour we had
{moothed every pafs, on the 30th of April I
caufed my caravan to file off before me ; and
cafting my eye, for the laft time, on the de-
lightful hermitage of Pampoen-Kraal, quitted
it with the fame regret as that with which a
lover feparates from his miftrefs. I often after-
wards enquired refpecting this happy afylum ;
and I had the fatisfaction of learning that it
had not only been refpected, but that the Hot~
tentots had named it after me. |
Notwithftanding all my precaution, we
found great dificulty at Kayman’s Hole, as
well as at a river called by the Hottentots in
their language Krakede-Kau, which fignifies
the girls ford. ‘This country was formerly
inhabited by Hottentots, who are all. now
extint or difperfed: the deep pits which are
to

AFR Gx: 193

to be feen at certain diftances, indicate that
they were hunters; and that they caught in
their {nares buffaloes and elephants: but thefe
animals are never or rarely now feen in this.
canton. 3

After a journey of eight hours, we arrived
near the Swarte Rivier, or Black River: as it
was {till fwelled by the rains, we were obliged
to pafs it on rafts, which we conftructed in
the fame manner as before. The frefh traces
of buffaloes which we obferved on the other
fide made us remain here fome time: and I
at length had the pleafure of killing one; a
Hottentot I carried along with me, killed alfo
another. I was fo pleafed with my fuccefs,
that I inftantly returned to my camp, to an-
nounce this agreeable intelligence, which pro-
mifed a fupply of provifion to my people for a
long time, in cafe we fhould be reduced to dif= .
trefs. As we had killed thefe two animals on
the banks of the river, above the place where
[ had fettled, I ordered them to be pufhed into
the ftream, which conveyed them oppofite
to my tent, where they were cut up: and I
defired them to be cut into very {mall pieces,
that they might be more eafily falted, and
expofed afterwards to the air and the fun.

Vor. I. O | Our

194 TRAVELS IN
Our waggons, as well as the buthes and trees
that furrounded us, were all loaded with bloody
fragments of our buffaloes; but on a fudden,
in the midft of our operation, and while we
were not expecting it, we found ourfelves at-
tacked by flights of kites and vultures ; which,
without any fear, perched among us. The
kites, above all, were the moft impudent.
They rapacioufly feized upon the morfels of
flefh, and even contended furioufly with my
people. When they had each carried away a
pretty large piece, they retired to fome branch,
at the diftance of ten paces from us, and de-
voured it before our eyes. Though we fired
our fufees, they were not frightened, but re-
turned inceffantly to the charge ; fo that, find-
ing that I wafted my powder in vain, we
refolved to difperfe them, and drive them away
with large poles, until our provilions fhould
be quite dry. ‘This manceuvre, which for a
long time harafled my people, did not prevent
us from being plundered without mercy; but,
had we not employed it, nothing abfolutely
would have remained of our two buffaloes.
The tongues I ordered to be finoked ; and I
never omitted to purfue the fame method with
thofe of all the animals I afterwards killed,
This

AF RECA, 198
This was a great delicacy; and a refource
for me when our provifions fell fhort. When
I withed to indulge in fenfuality, or to awaken
my appetite, I added a {mall plateful of it to
my ufual allowance. There were none but .
the tongues of elephants which I did not with.
to preferve in this manner: their tafte, and
even their figure, always occafioned a difguft
which I could never overcome, and which it
would be very difficult to account for.

When our provifions were prepared and
packed up, we quitted the Black River ; and
having croffed the Goucom, two leagues thence,
we reached the Ny/ena, after travelling two
leagues more. The latter is a confiderable
ftream, and was ftill fwelled by the tide—
Hitherto I had found no {pot more agreeable for
fixing my camp. Here I had a moft delightful
meadow of about a thoufand feet fquare; a
forett of tall trees formed a magnificent fhelter
onthe fouth, extending circularly towards the
eaft; on the north I had before me the river,
which appeared to be very abundant in fifth;
and a variety of {mall game {warmed on its
banks. So many advantages might have al-
moft made me forget Pampoen-Kraal ; but all
its attractions could not tempt me to ftop.

O2 Agitates

196 TRAVELS IN

Agitated by a fecret uneafinefs, Lfaw on the other
fide of the river a dificult mountain, which
it was neceflary for us to pafs. It was fo. prodi-
gioully fteep, that | apprehended fome accident
would befal me; for an internal foreboding
feemed ftrongly to announce it. I had indeed
almoft loft, in one moment, the whole fruits of
my labours, and of my incredible fatigues. I
had taken the prudent precaution to conduct
my waggons one after the other ; for, had I at-
tempted to make them mount altogether, I
fhould not have had oxen enough to draw
them. I ordered twenty to be yoked to my
mafier waggon; which, as I have already faid,
carried all my artillery and my principal riches.
My oxen fet out; and, by climbing with great
exertion, had almoft reached the fummit : but
the chain which kept the firft eighteen to-
gether breaking all of a fudden, the waggon
rolled down with great precipitation to the bot-
tom of the mountain, carrying with it the two
oxen yoked to the pole. From the eminence
on which we ftood, my condutors and I fol-
lowed it with our eyes, almoft petrified with
fear, and in the moft dreadful agitation,—
Twenty times did we fee it ready to fall over
_ the precipice that bordered the way: and this
misfortune

AFRICA. 197

misfortune would have infallibly taken place,
had it not been for the fuperior ftrength of the
two oxen attached to the pole, which nothing
could overcome. This accident, had it hap-
pened, muft have entirely fufpended my jour-
ney. My carriage, and my moft. valuable
effects, would have been dafhed to pieces ;
my powder, my fhot, and my arms, would
have been fcattered: and I fhould have been
entirely ruined without the leaft refource. The
waggon was, however, ftopped by a rock on
the banks of the torrent. We defcended with
fhouts of Joy ; and having colle&ted my effects,
and put every thing in its proper place, we
again yoked the oxen to this fatal carriage ;
which, without danger. regained in an hour
what it had loft in ten minutes. The reff,
being not quite fo heavy, arrived in perfe&
fafety. I had ordered the traces to be doubled,
and four men to efcort the wheels, all ready
to put their hands to the fpokes on the leaft
jolt. The road however was fo fteep, that this
would not have prevented a fall ; but it would
have diminifhed the rapidity of it, and given
us time to direct the carriage in fuch a man-
ner, as beft to avoid the dreadful precipice.
Fear is a magnifying glafs which always

O 3 enlarges

198 TRAVEW&: IN

enlarges objects. Mine had announced fome

thing very unlucky. In vain fhould I attempt
to paint my looks, and the agitation of my
mind, in this diftrefling moment. I involun-
tarily followed all the motions of the waggon,
and feemed to fet it right by thofe of my body,
and by the geftures of my arms. Each jolt
penetrated to the bottom of my heart.

I however found that our lofs was not fo
great as T expected. I might almoft fay in-
deed that a miracle was operated in my favour;
and I perceived that the god of the fatal tri-
dent did not always purfue me. I not only
found that my carriage had efcaped without
much damage, but the fhocks it fuftained had
not materially deranged what it contained.
My oxen, which were dragged backwards by
a waggon that weighed nearly two tons, and
which might have been dafhed to pieces before
they arrived at the bottom of the mountain,
efcaped with only a few dangerous wounds,
which did not prevent them from continuing
their labour. It muft be confefled that our
misfortune, allowing for time loft, was not
very great; though we had every reafon to
fear for the future,

in proportion as I got at a diftance from

the

AFRICA. 199
the plantations, and advanced into the country,
every thing in my eyes aflumed a new appear-
ance. The profpects became more magni-
ficent ; the foil feemed to be more fruitful and
rich ; nature appeared to be more majeftic and
grand ; and the lofty mountains prefented, on
all fides, more charming and delightful points
of view, than I had ever met with. Thefe
{cenes, contrafted with the dry and parched
fields of the Cape, made me believe that I
was more than a thoufand leagues from it.
“© What! ” faid I, in my ecftafy, “< thall thefe
‘‘fuperb regions be eternally inhabited by
“tigers and lions? What fpeculator, with
“ the fordid view only of eftablifhing a -kind
“© of center for commerce, could have preferred
“the ftormy Table Bay to the numberlefs
‘© roads, and natural and commodious harbours,
“ which are to be found on the eaftern coafts —
“° of Africa?”

Thus was I refleQing within myfelf, whilft

I was climbing the mountain on foot, and

forming vain wifhes for the conqueft of this

beautiful country, which the indolent policy

of the European nations will perhaps never
gratify.

O 4 We

200 TRAVELS AIN

We ftill continued to advance, having al-
ways to the weft that great chain of moun~
tains, covered with wood, which we had be-
fore perceived at a great diftance. After
travelling four hours and a half, I halted
at a {mall rivulet about three leagues diftant
from the fea, Here we obferved a prodigious
quantity of fifh floating up with the tide ; and
as foon as I faw them in a ftate of ftagnation,
I ordered the net which I had received from
Mr. Mulder to be extended acrofs the ftream.
This was the firft time I employed it; and,
as it was too long, I found it neceflary to
have it doubled. Were I to mention the
number of fifh which remained when the tide
ebbed, I fhould be confidered as an extrava-
gant exaggerator; I fhall only fay that the net
fuffered confiderably. My people cooked thefe
fifh with a variety of fauces: as for me, I re-
_ ferved about an hundred for myfelf, which,
with different f{pices, I put into a kettle with-
out any water ; and having hermetically fealed
the coverlid with a kind of vifcous earth, I
buried the whole under hot afhes. By
this arrangement I procured an excellent
difh or fith, with which I could fcarcely be

{atiated ;

AFRICA Dot
fatiated; and which lafted me for feveral
days.

One could not choofe a more agreea-
ble and advantageous fpot, ihan that upon
which I: then was, for eftablifhing a thri-
ving colony. The fea advances through
an opening of about a thoufand paces in
breadth, and penetrates into the country to
the diftance of more than two leagues and a
half. The bafon which it forms is more than
a league in extent; and the whole coaft, both
on the right and the left, is bordered with
rocks, which intercept all communication with
it. The land, which is rich and fertile, is
watered by limpid and refrefhing ftreams,
that flow down on all fides from the eaftern
mountains. Thefe mountains, crowned with
majeftic woods, extend as far as the bafon,
winding round with a number of finuolities ;
which exhibit an hundred groves, naturally
variegated, and each more agreeable than the
other. In this {pot I found a great many
{mall white herons, of the fame fpecies as thofe
fent from Cayenne, and which I had often
feen, when young, in Surinam. I difcovered

alfo the large egret *, but it was here more
rare, ‘ :
* A fpecies of the heron,

The

202 TRAVELER SAIN

The woods furnith {mall game in abun-
dance: buffaloes, and fometimes elephants, are
alfo foundin them. Two orthree houfes, the
inhabitants of which have no other employ-
ment but to carry on a dull and laborious
trade in wood and butter with the Cape, are
feen here; but {cattered at a very great dif-
tance from each other.

In this beautiful country I remained till the
13th. We then crofled, by very difagreeable
roads, a foreft named Le Poort; and, after tra-
velling feven hours more, reached the river
Witte Dreft, In feveral places I obferved a
few more habitations, no lefs miferable and
wretched than the former; for the diftance, the
dangers of the journey, and other obftacles
invincible to thefe poor people, do not permit
them, except very rarely, to drive a few oxen —
to the Cape: and, even when they arrive there,
they are in a bad condition ; and on that ac-
count the owners of them make a bad market,
and are as badly paid. At the time I pafled
here, many of thefe people had not been at
the Cape for a number of years. !

I fill continued to advance, but whether it
was that fatigue, and the repeated misfortunes
I fucceflively experienced, had deranged my

health ; |

A2F iRy 7G Ag 203

health ; or that I was obliged to pay tribute
to thefe new climates, and that the temperature
of them made a powerful impreflion on my
conftitution—I was often attacked by fudden
ficknefs, and haunted with the gloomy idea
that 1 fhould leave my afhes at the diftance of
two thoufand leagues from my family. My
Imagination, too lively, {till exaggerated this
aa ;and I gave way to dejection and
defpair. The moft difmal melancholy took
poffeffion of my mind; for I now faw myfelf
in reality ftopped in my progrefs. I was
afflicted with violent head-aches, an extraor-
dinary heavineis, and a general uneafinefs, that
feemed to announce very ferious danger. This
was the only event I dreaded when I fet out.
_ I found it would be neceflary for me to ftop,
that I might recruit my firength: and I at
Jaft formed my refolution ; convinced that the
moft acute diforder muft here, as well as
amidft the phyficians noftrums, take a fa-
vourable turn, or relieve the patient by death.

I dragged myfelf along, therefore, as well
as I could, and took a curfory view of the
environs. Having obfervedan agreeable fitu-
ation for my camp, in the neighbourhood of
a i{mall rivulet, I ordered my tents to be erect-

ed

204 TR: OV BHNSA IN

ed at the edge of a wood. I knew nothing
of the practice of phyfic, but regimen and re
pofe; my people knew ftill lefs; and, if my
malady increafed, I was likely in their hands
to run very great rifques. I became fo weak,
that I was obliged to remain abed in my wag-
gon, which the heat of the fun rendered like a
burning furnace. J was tormented with ex-
cruciating pains in my bowels ; a violent dyfen-
tery followed ; and I heard my people, in their
turn, complain one after the other of the fame
diftemper. Imagining then that this kind of
epidemia was occafioned by the great quantity
of falt fifh which we had eaten, I ordered all
that remained of it to be burnt. In the mean’
time I was wafted by a continual fever ; but I
did not entirely lofe my ftrength : and, after a
‘copious perfpiration for twelve days, reft, and
a proper regimen, re-eftablifhed me. I took
moderate exercife, calmed my {fpirits, and I
foon found myfelf every day get better. The
faine regimen reftored all my people. 1 did
not fail to add to the lift of the grand and
fublime difcoveries in medicine, the warm bath;
and Iam firmly perfuaded that this bath, or
chance, faved my life.

When I was perfe@tly recovered, I reftumed

ae |

AR RIVGAT 205

my ufual occupations, exercife and hunting. In
my firft excurfion I found that we were flanked
by a fecond river, called Queur-Boom, which
falls from the weftern mountains, and is
joined by the Witte-Dreft at the diftance of
a league from the fea. Its mouth is near a bay,
called by navigators the Bay of Agoa. Ina
journey which governor Blettenberg of the
Cape made towards this place, he ordered his
name, the year andthe day of his arrival, to
be engraven on a {tone column. I examined
this wretched monument, which wanted no-
thing but an infcription in verfe to render it
ftill more contemptible. This name now pre-
vails in all the colonies; and the Bay of Agoa
is known under that of Blettenberg’s Bay. Thus
a paltry poft, erected by the vanity of an in-
_ dividual, in a moment gives .birth to errors
which difconcert conventions before received;.
and at the fame time overturns opinions gene-
rally adopted by the people. In ‘our neigh-
bourhood there happened to be a flock of from
twenty-five to thirty bubales in a place in-
clofed by the fea and our two rivers; and
as our camp was {fo fituated, that it filled
the whole fpace which remained for them to
elcape by, thefe animals were entirely at our

| mercy.

602 TRAVELS IN

mercy. Confidering them as part of our live
— ftock, we did not fpare them ; for, whenever .
our provifions began to fall low, I brought
down a couple of them. Not one of them
efcaped us; and their fkins, when joined
together, made a pretty covering for the wag-
gon I had repaired at Pampoen-Kraal.

As large troops of buffaloes came to browfe
in our fight, on the other fide of the Queur-
Boom, we gave chace to them, and caught
feveral of them.

This animal is remarkably wild, and one
muft attack it with great precaution in the
woods; but in the open fields it is not
formidable. It fears, and flies from the pre-
fence of aman. ‘The fureft way of catching
it, is to harafs it with dogs. Whilft it 1s en-
gaged in defending itfelf, a bullet in the head,
or the omoplate, will inftantly difpatch it. The
bullets to be ufed muft be of a large fize, and
made either of tin or lead. If the animal is
not wounded in the two places above men-
tioned, it will efcape.

Its horns are very large and divergent. By
the clofenefs of their roots to each other, on
the forehead, one would almoft imagine that
they proceed from the fame bafe. The buf-

faloe

A FRIUO 207

faloe is much ftronger and larger than the
moft beautiful oxen in Europe; and I am of
the fame opinion as many travellers, that it
would not be impoffible to render it tractable
and fubmiffive to the yoke. That this at-
tempt hath never yet fucceeded, is but a weak
objection ; for falfe experiments are no proof.
Such an enterprize, indeed, would require time,
knowledge, and art; and ought not to be en-
trufted to the indolence of an ignorant planter,
accu{tomed often to fee infurmountable ob-
ftacles in a flight difficulty. This fpeculation is
worthy of the grand views of a Company who
are continually endeavouring to extend every
branch of induftry and commerce. Were
fome of thefe animals caught when very
young, and put into proper inclofures, and
were they gradually accuftomed to come and
receive fome favourite food from their keeper,
they would foon carefs the hand that feeds
them. When they grew up, they would pro-
duce young; which, inftructed by their mo-
thers, would follow their example, and become
{till more familiar, Why fhould we not be-
lieve that, at the third generation, the manners
of the buffaloe would be foftened, when we
every day fee ferocious bears, taken from the
| moun-

208 TRA WE LIST aN

mountains of Savoy, traverfe our ftreets, dance,
leap, falute people, and in a word obey the
orders of their conductor with the moft timid
fubmiflion to his avaricious caprice.

In general, all animals with horns and clo-
ven feet have a haggard eye, which gives
them a terrible appearance: but, as in carni-
vorous and fanguinary animals, this is not a
fign of fury, on the contrary it indicates
terror and fear. They have neither the deep
cunning, nor the mifchievous difpofition, of
the lion, the tiger, or even the elephant. In-
deed they have no occafion for them; the
vegetables upon which they feed do not
caufe fo much heat in their bowels: they
are exceedingly wild, but they are timid. In
this apparent contraft I fee nothing contrary
to nature, and I difcover one of the moft
ftriking features of man.

I thall not here enter into an examination
of thofe complicated fhades, hitherto fo little
known, which diftinguifh favage animals from
each other. It is always either a regard to
their own fafety, or a defire of providing for
their own fubfiftence, that leads them to fero-
city; but being, like us, fubje& to pafiions
varioufly combined, they proceed to it by dif

I ferent

A'F R.I CC vAy 208
ferent routes. This examination, which is
foreign to a work merely hiftorical, I fhall
referve for my defcription of animals.

I had never yet taken a clofe furvey of the
_ bay, very improperly called Blettemberg. The
attention I paid to my health, at the clofe of
my diforder, had hitherto prevented me from
examining it; and, when I went thither for
the firft time, I was much furprifed to find
that it was only a very open road, {carcely
extending into the country at all. It is very
fpacious, and has a fufficient depth of water

for the largeft veflels ; the anchoring ground
fs fure; and, by means of boats, they may
be eafily carried to a beautiful part of the
fhore, which is not confined by the rocks that
abound there, as they are all detached from
one another. By advancing a league from
the coaft, the crews would arrive at the mouth
of the Queur-Boom, where they would find
water. Refrefhments might be procured from
the inhabitants of the environs ; and the bay
would fupply fifth, with which it abounds ;
and excellent “oyfters, with which all the
rocks are covered. This bay is one of thofe
places where government ought to efta-_
_blith warehoufes and repofitories for timber :
eS aie the

210 TRAVELS VIN

the forefts every where around are magnifi-
cent ; and they could be more eafily cut down
than any where eife: for it is not to fteep moun~
tains that one muft go in fearch of wood, as
in the country of Auteniqua; it is here ready
at hand. Warehoufes, as I have faid, ought
to be erected clofe to the bay; and, during
the fine monfoon, it might be tranfported to
the Cape in a fhort time, and without any
rifque. This eafy expedient would open the
eyes of the inhabitants to their own intereft :
the exportation would be renewed, and would
foon increafe. ‘Thefe inexhauftible lands once
cultivated, befides affording hopes of abundant
crops, would draw thither a great number of
intelligent planters, on account of the ready
communication which they could have with the
Cape: and thefe people would procure from
all parts neceflaries and conveniences which

they muft now renounce; becaufe, to find

them, it is neceflary to go more than an hun-

dred and fifty leagues into the country. Were —

this {cheme carried into execution, thefe ho-
neft Dutchmen would no longer be loudly
and fincerely wifhing that fome nation would
form a fettlement in their neighbourhood, and
furnifh them with thofe articles that contribute

to

AFIR IVC A. 211

to the happinefs of life, and the pleafure of
fociety. It would alfo, at the fame time, ex-
tend the treafures of commerce, at the Bay of
Agoa. Thefe withes, fo contrary to their politi-
cal intereft, could not be gratified without hurt-
ing them. The Company have nothing to do
but to form here a proper eftablifhment. To
the general profits of fuch an inftitution
would be added thofe of individuals, which
could not fail to be of importance. They
might, for example, cut down a certain tree,
called /znking wood, and export it to Europe,
where it would undoubtedly foon be preferred
to every other kind employed by cabinet-
makers.

The advantages which the Company and
the colony might derive from this beautiful
country, could not certainly have efcaped the
governor, who made a journey hither. But in
fettlements, the profperity of which is at the
mercy of a few united together, and interefted
in oppofing every plan that would tend to
diminifh their profits, what is a governor?
A pafflive being; indolent with refpec&t to the
general good, and who is actuated only by
a regard to his private concerns. Confent-
ing to a kind of banifhment for a certain

ae time,

sy aw TRAV. ELS AITN
time, he privately eftablifhes in his own mind,
as the firft article of his contra@, that, as he
mutt rapidly make a fortune, every method
of procuring it is honourable and lawful.
Full of thefe ideas, when he arrives at the feat
of his government, where he finds every thing
favourable to his views, he exercifes his
rapacity with impunity ; when he returns to
his own country, he infults his fellow-citizens
by infolent pomp: and he undoubtedly never
thinks of opening the eyes of his employers,
concerning thofe improvements and regula-
tions which in a little time would increafe
the happinefs of a populous colony.

I am of opinion that colonies, under the
management of exclufive companies, are like

thofe public carriages which circulate through

all Europe, carrying paffengers and goods at
the fame time; provided the latter arrive

{afe, the proprietors care very little whether |

the poor travellers who defcend from the
coach have their limbs broken or found.

In the neighbourhood of this bay I found
imeaiis to increafe my collection with feveral
beautiful birds, and even with fome new {pe-
cies, which were common here in the woods:
but I withed, above all, to procure one which

more

A RRC a13
more than once put my patience to the proof,
and had like to have coft me very dear. It
was a bald-buzzard*, of a moft beautiful fpe-
cies. ‘This bird, of the genus of the eagle,
is almoft as large as the ofpray. Every day
I {aw it hovering over my camp, but at fuch a
diftance that it could not be reached by a ball,
1 however conftantly obferved its motions; and
I made a perfon always keep watch, and never
lofe fight of it. One day that I had croffed
the Queur-Boom, while walking along the
bank oppofite to that on which my camp
{ftood, 1 perceived a number of heads, frag-
ments of large fithes, and the bones and re-
mains of {mall antelopes, flrewed on the
ground, near the rotten trunk of an old tree.
I immediately concluded that this muft be the
place where two of thefe bald-buzzards had efta-
_ blithed their fithery, or at leaft their ordinary
haunt ; and it was not long before I faw them
foaring round in the air, at a great height.
Without lofs of time I concealed myfelf in a
thick bufh; but this ftratagem was not exe-
cuted with fuflicient alertnefs to deceive the
piercing eyes of thefe two eagles. They
doubtlefs obferved me; for they did not de-

*By fome naturaliits called the fea eagle. ¥;

ie {cend,

214 TRAVELS AN

{cend. Next day, and for feveral days fuccef-
fively, I returned to my ftation, at break of
day. I pofted myfelf in the thicket, but all
‘my vigilance was ineffectual. This bufinefs
was very laborious: becaufe, to go and return,
I was obliged to pafs the river twice ; and at
thefe times it was neceffary to wait for the
ebbing of the tide.

Tired out at laft, as I wafted my time with-
out being able to fucceed, I took two Hotten-
tots with me; and crofling the river, in the
middle of the night, conducted them to a {pot
near the trunk of the old tree, where I made
them dig a hole three feet wide and four deep.
When it was made, I placed myfelf in it;
and having ordered them to cover the hole
over my head with a few fticks, a piece of a
mat, and fome earth, I referved only a {mall
opening, fufficiently large for me to put my
fufee through it, and to fee the old trunk. I
then defired my people to return to the camp.
Day approached, but the cruel birds did not -
make their appearance. The earth feeming
to be newly thrown up, had no doubt ren-
dered them fufpicious; and this was’a circum-
ftance which I had not at fir’ thought of.
At the clofe of the a I came forth from

y o% my

AE Ra Chee 21s

my hole, and went to pafs a few hours at my
camp; after which I returned, and interred
myfelf as before. ‘This expedient I continued
for two days fucceflively, with much patience.
During that interval, the fun had dried the
earth, and made it all of one colour. About
the middle of the third, I obferved the female |
foaring above the tree, upon which fhe foon
alighted, with a very large fifth in her talons.
I inftantly difcharged my piece; and had the
pleafure of feeing her fall, flapping her wings:
but before I could difengage myfelf from
my mat, and the earth which covered me, fhe
fo far recovered her ftrength as to fly; and,
brufhing the furface of the river, reached the
other fide, where fhe expired.

The joy which I felt on finding myfelf in
poffeffion of this bird was fo great, that, with-
out obferving that the tide was up, I threw
mylelf into the water, with my fufee on my
fhoulder; and I was not fenfible of my im-
prudence, till in the middle of the river I
found mylelf up tothe chin. ‘To add to my
misfortune, I was alone, and entirely unac-
quainted with {wimming. Had I attempted
to return, the rapidity of the current would
have undoubtedly thrown me down. With-

, P4 out

216 TRAVELS WIN
out knowing what was to become of me, I
purfued my way, as it were, mechanically;
and I had the good fortune to reach the op-
pofite bank: an inch more would have in-
fallibly drowned me, I rufhed upon my
bald-buzzard; and the pleafure of fecuring my
prey, foon effaced every remembrance of fear
and danger, I was, however, obliged to pull
off all my clothes, and to fpread them out to
dry: in the mean time I amufed myfelf in
examining my prize; and, when my clothes
were perfectly dry, I returned without any
danger to my habitation. - When I arrived, I
was told that feveral of my people were gone
in purfuit of a buffaloe, which they had met
with; and, towards evening, I faw them re-
turn, loaded with the limbs of the animal,
which they had cut up on the fpot. Next
morning, very early, I did not negle& to fend
in fearch of the fragments, which they had left
to attract birds of prey. This method procured
me the male bald-buzzard; which differed
from the female in nothing but the general
diftinGion of carnivorous birds, that of being
always a third {maller. I fhall give a figure
and defcription of the latter, under the name
of Vocifer, 3

The

AFRICU/A. ee

The fame morning, as I was fitting calmly
in my chair, at the entrance of my tent, hav-
ing before me a table upon which I was dif-
feCting my bald-buzzard, an antelope, of that
fpecies called the J0/-bock, fuddenly crofled my
‘camp, and paffed through my carriages; while
my dogs, which had firft feen it, and which
endeavoured to oppofe it, were not able to
make it alter its courfe. After this alarm, it
ran ftraight towards a net extended to dry,
at the fide of my camp; tore it to pieces ;
carried away fome fragments of it; and,
purfued by my whole pack, threw itfelf
precipitately into the river, At the fame in-
ftant I faw nine wild dogs arrive, which had
probably given chace to it, and which were
following its traces. At the fight of my camp,
thefe animals {topped fhort, and, making a little
tour, reached a {mall hill, upon which I had
pofted myfelf; and from which, as well as I,
they could fee their prey feized by my dogs and
my Hottentots ; who did eyery thing in their
power to tear it from the teeth of the former,
and to bring it to me alive. They indeed fuc-
ceeded effeCtually, after having lafhed its legs.
Nothing could be more pleafant than to fee
the fimple look of thefe wild dogs; which
berg

218 TRAVEZS aw

being ftill fpeCtators of this provoking fcene,
had not quitted the eminence; and, being >
feated on their rumps in a melancholy pof-
ture, fufficiently fhewed by their impatient
geftures what ideas they entertained of our
injuftice, and of their own right to the repaft
which we had deprived them of. I wifhed much
to catch one of them, and fome of my people
crept foftly along in order to reach them ; but
being more cunning than we, they fufpected
their manceuvres, and made off full fpeed. 1
fent a bullet after them, to thank them for the -
fervice they had rendered us ; but, as it did not
take effect, | might as well have faved myfelf
the trouble. This antelope I attempted to
preferve, and to tame; but it was fo wild,
the fight of my dogs infpired it with fo much
fear, and it ftruggled fo much, and made fo
many violent motions, that it muft infallibly
have deftroyed itfelf. To fave it therefore
from this torture, we killed and ate it.

This adventure, for more than eight days,
afforded fubjeét for my wits to exercife their
genius on; and they laughed at the poor
wild dogs for having ftarted the game, to
fee themfelves fo fuddenly deprived of it.

It muft however be allowed, that, had not
my dogs been fupported by my people, they

would

AFRICA. 219
would not have been able to fecure the ante-
dope; for, though they were more numerous
than the wild dogs, the latter were ftronger,
fiercer, and more courageous. I fhall after-
wards have occafion to fpeak of them, and to
reCtify a great many errors refpeCting them,
which have been propagated and confirmed
by men of the greateft talents. But how can
people fpeak with any certainty of objects
which they have never feen themfelves, efpe-
cially when they copy the relations of others
who know them as little? : |

Until the 15th of June I formed feveral en-
campmients in the neighbourhood of the Bay
in different places. Refolved to continue my
journey into the country, between the chain
of mountains arid the fea, I went to recon-
noitre the way: I endeavoured, but without
fuccefs, to find a place where my carriages
could eafily pafs; for the forefts were fo ex-
tenfive, and fo thick, that there was no poffi-
bility of penetrating through them. My Hot-
tentots, on their part, were not more fortu-
nate in their refearches than I: we could
abfolutely difcover no outlet. I determined
therefore to crofs the chain of mountains; but
to accomplith this, it was {till neceflary that I

fhould

220 TRAVEUS Aw

fhould find the beginning of a paflage, where
my unfortunate oxen might be able to keep
their feet. In vain did I traverfe, run, and
fearch every where around; for nothing ap-
peared to my view but peaked rocks, to
whatever quarter I turned. Without know-
ing it, we had entangled ourfelves in a kind
of hollow valley, without any opening, from
which we could not get out but by re-
turning the fame way we had come. This
method through neceflity we were obliged to
purfue ; and we again found ourfelves at the
wood of Poort, from which we had departed
a month before. :

Such is the happy inftability of the human
mind, that little is fometimes wanting to re-
ftore it to its former tranquillity. This fpot,
to which I returned with the utmoft regret,
and which before feemed fo barren and difmal,
all of a fudden refumed a new and {miling
appearance, Having obferved, as 1 walked
along, the traces of a flock of elephants, which
mutt have paffed there the fame day, nothing
more was requifite to banifh.all my chagrin,
and to confole me for the delay I had experi-
enced in my route ; we therefore erected our
tents in that place.

i | Among

A F RT CAM 221

Among my Hottentots there was one who
had travelled thus far in his youth with his
horde and family, who had not been long re-
moved from it. As he had befides a fuperfi-
cial knowledge of the country, I feleCted him,
with four others; and, having put my camp
in order, we departed all fix, carrying with
us fome provifions; and following the traces,
which we never loft fight of even for a mo-
ment: but they led us on till night without
feeing any thing. We then fat down to fup-
per very merrily, exhorting one another not
to think too much of the enjoyments of our
camp; and, having kindled a large fire, we
{tretched ourfelves out around it, on the cold
hard ground.

Though each of us had affected to infpire
his companions with courage and patience,
we were equaliy tormented with emotions of
fear and uneafinefs: none of us enjoyed a
found fleep: on the {malleft breath of wind,
or the leaft quivering of a leaf, we ftarted up
to liften, and began to prepare for our own
prefervation. Night pafled away amidft thefe
flight alarms; and at the break of day I roufed
my fleepy companions by loud cries: little
time was requifite for them to be drefied; and

a glafs

229 TRAVELS ALN:

a glafs of {trong liquor revived their fpirits,
and made them forget the rude manner in
which I had awakened them. We fpent the
fecond day in great dejeftion; and we were
not fo fuccefsful as on the firft. In the even-
ing we repeated the fame ceremonies as before,
but with this difference, that being perhaps
become bolder, or even more confident, we
hoped that an uninterrupted fleep would re-
cover us a little from our fatigue, and ferve
at leaft to refrefh us. We were however dif-
turbed by a very fudden alarm. Scarcely had
my Hottentots been afleep an hour, when a
buffalo, attracted by the light, approached
clofe to us; but as this animal is afraid of
man, no fooner did he obferve us, than he
was feized with terror, and inftantly fled. The
noife which he made in retreating precipitately
through the bufhes, and the crafhing of the
branches, awaked us; upon which we all
ftarted up, and having fearched around for
the {pace of an hour, difcharging our pieces
at random, we returned to our fire. The
third day was ftill more difaftrous: the
hiftory of it I fhall relate more at length,
for it often recurs to my mind; and at pre-
fent, as the fire of youth becomes cooler, it

does

AFR I1C(AA. 223

does not lead me into fuch rafh enterprizes,
and has given place to calmer ideas: the
remembrance of it ftill affets me, and makes

me fhudder. | .
Purfuing the traces of our animals without
ever lofing fight of them, we arrived at a very
large open part of the foreft, in which there
were only a few fhrubs, and fome underwood.
Having ftopped here, one of my Hottentots
climbed up a tree to get a better view; and
cafting his eyes every where around, he made
a fign to us to be filent, by putting his finger.
to his mouth; and fignified by his hand, which
he opened and {hut feveral times, what num-
ber of elephants he perceived. When he
defcended we held a council; and going to
the leeward of them, that we might approach
without being difcovered, he conducted me
through the bufhes fo near, that he brought
me quite clofe to thefe enormous animals. I
almoft touched them, as I may fay, and yet! did
not obferve them ; though I can fafely declare
that my eyes were not fafcinated by fear. In
fuch fituations one muft run great rifks, and
prepare for danger. I ftood upon a {mall
eminence juft above the elephant. In vain
did my courageous Hottentot point it out
A _ with

224 TRAY EBS? AN-

with his finger; and twenty times repeat, in an
eager and impatient tone, there itis. I faw
nothing of it; for I caft my eyes to a much
greater diftance, and never imagined that what
I beheld below me could be any thing elfe than
a rock, fince the mafs I faw was entirely mo-
tionlefs, At length, however, a flight movement
attracted my attention; and the head and tufks
of the animal, which eclipfed its enormous
body, turned towards me. Without lofing this
opportunity, or wafting my time in fine con-
templations, I refted my large fufee on: its
pivot, and taking aim at the middle of its fore-
head, difcharged my piece, upon which it
inftantly dropped down dead; whilft about
thirty more, ftartled by the report, fled on all
fides. Nothing could be more amufing than
to fee the motion of their large ears, which
flapped about in proportion to the {wiftnefs
with which they ran: but this was only a
prelude toa much more animated {cene.

I was furveying them with great pleafure,
when I fired at one of them as it paffed clofe
tous. By the excrements tinged with blood
which it dropped, I judged that it was danger-
oully wounded, and we began to purifue it.
Sometimes it fell, then got up, then fell

/ again ;

A F Ri Css a5%
again; but we were clofe at its heels, and ftill
made it rife by the fhots which we difcharged at
it. On the fourteenth fhot, it turned with great
fury upon the Hottentot who had fired ; whilft |
another difcharged a fifteenth, which only
ferved to increafe its rage; and, as it advanced
rapidly towards us, he called out to us to be
upon our guard. I was only twenty-five paces
diftant from it; loaded with my fufee, which
weighed thirty pounds, befides ammunition :
and I was more difadvantageoufly fituated than
my people; who, not having gone {fo far,
could more eafily efcape the avenging trunk,
and extricate themfelves from danger. I there-
fore betook myfelf to my heels: but the ele-
phant, at every ftep, gained upon me; fo that,
more dead than alive, for only one at that mo-
ment ran up to defend me, I found no refource
but to lie down clofe to the trunk of an old tree,
which was extended on the ground. Scarcely
had I reached my lurking place, when the
animal arrived, leaped over the trunk, and,
being much frightened with the noife of my
people, whom he heard before him, he ftopped
fhort to liften. From the place where I lay
I could have eafily fired, as my fufee very
luckily was loaded; but the animal had al-

Wou.-I, es) ready

226 TRAY EES arn

ready received fo many fhots without effect,
and it was in fo unfavourable a pofition, that,
defpairing to killit by one difcharge, I remain-
éd motionlefs waiting for my fate. I however
watched it, refolved to fell my life at a dear
rate, fhould it attempt to return towards me.
My people, uneafy for their mafter, called to
me from all quarters ; but I was very cautious
not to give them any anfwer. Convinced by
my filence that they had loft their chief, they
redoubled their cries, and were filled with the
utmoit defpair. The elephant, frightened, im-
mediately turned round, and a fecond time
jumped over the tree, fix paces below the {pot
where I was, without perceiving me; upon
which ftarting up, fired with impatience in my
turn, and withing to fhew to my Hottentots
fome figns of life, I difcharged my fufee in its
pofteriors. The animal then entirely difap-
peared ; leaving every where as it pafled cer-
tain traces of the cruel fituation to which we
had reduced it

The picture is not yet finifhed ; gratitude
and friendfhip demand the laft touch. Wor-
thy man, who poffeffeft a feeling heart, the
moment is now come when I muft erect to

thy memory that monument which I pro-
mifed

AER TC wy: 225
mifed: thee. Thou carift never comprehend
with what pleafure I difcharge this duty:
may it confer fome honour on my travels,
and even ornament the relation of them. It
will never reach thee in the bofom of thy
peaceful defarts : but thou wert fenfible of my
tears, and thy fraternal arms have prefled me
to thy bofom. Whether thou art alive or
numbered with the dead, I full feel it. The
remembrance of me will be preferved longer
and more glorioufly among thy favage hordes,
than by empty trophies teared by the vanity
of man. I confefs tayfelf unworthy of it, and I
renounce it. But do thou, generous Klaas,
young pupil of nature, whofe virtuous mind
was never corrupted by our elegant inftitu-
tions, preferve always the remembrance of thy
friend. It is to thee alone that he ftill ad-
dreffes his tears and his tender regret.

When ftretched out by the trunk of an old
tree, at the mercy of a furious animal, which
with its wandering eye was fearching for me
every where around; and which, if it had
turned towards me, might have deftroyed me
on the fpot—it was then that my heart, quite
palpitating with terror, was opened to the
fenfations of a tender fentiment, infpired by

2 one

928 TRAVELS aN

one of thofe people, of whom polifhed nations
never fpeak but with horror or contempt;
whom, without knowing, they confider as
atrocious beings, the refufe of nature; in
a word, by an African favage, a Caffre, a Hot- .
tentot. ; 3
When I left the Cape, Mr. Boers gave me
this man, as a perfon upon whofe bravery
and fidelity I could depend. He had exprefl-
ly charged him never to abandon me, whether
dead or alive ; promifing to reward him hand-
fomely, if, on my return to the Cape found
and fafe, I fhould give a fatisfa€tory tefti-
mony refpeGting his behaviour. It was this
man that never quitted me for a moment ;
and who, having feen me fuddenly difappear,
hurried to my afliftance, though he fought for
me in vain. I heard him through the bufhes
call me with a faint voice, which indicated his
anxiety; then addrefs himfelf to my dejefted
and confounded companions, who followed |
at a little diftance, and reproach them with their
timidity, when furrounded by danger. ** What
** will become of us?” faid he, in his own ex-
preflive and affeCiing language—*‘ what: will
** become of us, fhould we have the misfortune
“© to find our unhappy mafter trod to death
“< under

AFRICA; 229
© under the feet of the elephant? Dare you
“* ever return to the Cape without him? With -
‘* what face will you appear before the fifcal ?
** ‘Whatever excufe you may make, you will
* beconfidered as bafe affaffins: it is you in-
** deed who have deftroyed him. Return to
** the camp ; plunder and difperfe his effects ;
** do whatever you choofe. As for me, I
“¢ fhall never quit this place: dead or alive

© I muft find my unfortunate mafter ; I have
“ refolved to perifh along with him.”—Thefe
words were uttered with fighs and lamentations
fo affeCting, that, even in the moft critical mo-
ment, I perceived the tears ftart from my eyes,
and the tendereft fenfations fucceed to terror.
My firing my fufee was a fignal cf joy; and I
found myfelf in an inftant furrounded by my
people, and in the arms of my dear Klaas, who
{queezed me fo clofely that I could fcarcely
difengage my body from him. This faithful
youth in turns kifled my perfon and clothes ;
while his companions, with the utmoft for-
row, and in a fuppliant attitude, ftretched out
their hands towards me, as if to implore my_
pardon. I took care to ccnfole them; for I
was too highly gratified by this {cene to dilturb
it by ufelefs words or reproaches. From that

Q- 3 day,

230 TRAVELS 8UN

day, the happieft in my life, in which I knew
the pleafure of being fincerely beloved, and
from no motives of intereft, | confidered the
worthy Klaas as my equal, my brother, and the
confidant of all my pleafures, misfortunes, and
fecrets: he has more than once calmed my dif-
quietude, and revived my drooping courage.
If he afterwards fhewed any figns of weaknefs
which were dangerous, and contrary to the
good order I had eftablifhed among my peo-
ple, this teftimony of his attachment gave him
fo much power over me, that I could never
allow myfelf to fhew feverity towards om, or
even to alarm his heart.

I drew fromnature the portrait of this brave
Hottentot; and the faithful and ftriking refem-
blanceheregiven of him was executed under my
infpe@tion, and engraved from my own defign.

As night was approaching, we haftened to-
wards the elephant whichI hadbeenfo fortunate
as to kill with one fhot: and indeed nothing
could have been more feafonable ; for our pre-
fence drove away fome vultures, and {feveral
fmall carnivorous animals, which, without lofs
of time, had begun to devour it. We kindled
a number of fires; and, as our provifions ran

fhort, my people cut a few fteaks from the
elephant,

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A PRS A. 291

elephant, and prepared for me fome flices of
the trunk. ‘This was the firft time I had ever
tafted fuch food; and I firmly refolved it fhould
not be the laft, for I found it moft delicious,
Klaas affured me that, when I tafted the feet,
I fhould foon forget the trunk; and, in order
to convince me, he promifed me a moft luf-
cious breakfaft, which he inftantly ordered
to be prepared. The four feet of the animal
were then cut off: a hole about three or four
feet {quare was made in the earth, and filled
with burning coals; and the whole being
covered with dry wood, a large fire was kept
up in it during the greater part of the night.
When the hole was fufficiently heated, every
thing was taken from it. Klaas placed in it
the four feet of the animal, covering them with
hot afhes; afterwards with coals, and fome
{mall pieces of wood: and this fire was fuffer-
ed to remain till day-light. All that night I
was the only perfon who flept; for, according
to the orders given by Klaas, my people kept
watch. They informed me that they had
heard many buffaloes and elephants ranging
around. This we expected, as the whole fo-
reft was filled with them; but the number of

Q 4 our

232 TRAY ELS LEN
our fires prevented them from coming to
difturb us. | . :
At breakfaft my people brought me one of —
the elephant’s feet; which had fwelled fo much
by its being baked, that I could fcarcely dif-
tinguifh its form. It however looked well,
and exhaled fo {weet a {mell that I was eager
to tafte it. I indeed found that it was
food fit for a king. I had often heard the
feet of bears boafted of ; but I could not con-
ceive how an animal fo heavy and coarfe as
the elephant could produce fo tender and de-
licate flefh. ‘ Newer,” faid I to myfelf—
* never can our modern Luculli difplay upon
“their tables a difh like that which I now
“enjoy. Invain with their riches do they
“‘ change and reverfe the feafons; in vain do
“* they boaft of laying all nations under con-
“tribution: their luxury has never yet at-
*‘ tained to this gratification ; bounds are pre-_
“ fcribec to their fenfuality.” And I devoured
without bread my elephant’s foot; while my
Hottentots, feated near me, regaled themfelves
_ with other parts, which they found no lefs
excellent. Thefe particulars may appear child-
ath, or at leaft indifferent, to a great many
’ readers 3

sean ee eae

-AF Ral CAs 2.32
readers; but it is neceflary to relate every
thing, fince fo many whimfical and abfurd
notions have hitherto been entertained refpect-
ing this fingular country which I was tra-
verfing.

The reft of the morning we employed in
plucking out its tufks ; as it was a female, they
did not weigh twenty pounds: the animal
herfelf was eight feet three inches in height.
My people then loaded themfelves with all the
provifions they could carry, and we fet out to
return to ourcamp. We at firft propofed to
follow the one we had left alive, and which
had been wounded in fo cruel a manner; but
fo many had arrived during the night, that
their traces were entirely confounded: we

-were, befides, fo fatigued, that being afraid to

difcourage thefe poor people, I refolved to lead
them back as foon as poflible. |
The Hottentots poflefs the faculty of fight

in the moft exquifite degree ;.and this advan-

tage is feconded by a very wonderful attention.
Upon the drieft ground, where, notwithftand-
ing its weight, the elephant leaves no traces
perceptible to a common eye, amidit withered
leaves fcattered and driven here and there by
the wind, the African can diftinguifh the

prints

234 TRAVELS, gn

prints of this animal’s feet : he fees the path
it has purfued, and that which he mutft fol-
low to come up with it. A green leaf reverfed
or torn off, a bud deftroyed, the manner in
which a {mall branch is broken, and a thou-
{and other circumftances, are to him never-
failing marks, whilft the moft expert European
hunter would lofe all his refources. As for
me, I could difcover nothing ; though I had
beftowed much time and attention upon this
divining part of one of the moft delightful
kinds of hunting. I confefs that Iwas fofond —
of it, that I did not difdain to enter into the
minutie of it. JI acquired inftruction more
and more every day; and, when I ranged the
woods with my people, I {pent whole days in
afking queftions; and I had fometimes occa-
fion to put my precepts Immediately into prac-
tice.

When we returned to the camp, my old
Swanepoel told me that, during my abfence,
he had been every night difturbed by flocks of
elephants, which had approached fo near that
they heard them break the branches of the
trees, and browfe on the leaves. I made a
tour through the foreft; and I indeed faw a
great many young trees broken, branches

_ ftripped

A FRE OOM 23.6
firipped of their leaves, and young fhoots
devoured.

This was enough to induce me again to take
the field; efpecially as my people had been
allowed fufficient time to repofe. -[ however
chofe rather to go and furprife thefe animals
in the day time, than to wait for them in my
tent during the night. In the morning, there-
fore, I fet out ; but I was obliged to wander
to a great diftance. From the top of an emi-
nence, at the edge of the wood, I perceived
four in fome very thick bufhes: and taking
care to get to the leeward of them, I approach-
ed with great precaution ; furveying them with
much pleafure for half an hour, while they
were eating the extremities of the branches.
Before they took them in their mouths, they
beat them three or four times with their
trunks; in order, as I imagine, to fhake off the
ants, and other infects. After this ceremony,
they always grafped with their trunks all the
branches they could furround; and, convey-
ing them to their mouths always on the left
fide, {wallowed them without much chewing.
_ I remarked that they preferred thofe branches
which were beft furnifhed with leaves; and
that they were, befides, extremely fond of a

yellow

536 TRAVER SIN

yellow fruit, when it was ripe, which in the
country is called a cherry. :

When I had {fufficiently examined their
method of feeding, I fired at the head of the
one neareft to me, which I killed ; and in lefs
than ten minutes I in the like manner ex- —
tended the whole three on the ground *.

We imagined that there were no more: but
a great noife near us having made us turn
round, one of my Hottentots, who obferved a
{mall elephant, killed it. I was very forry for
his rafhnefs, and reprimanded him feverely. As
this animal was not larger than a calf of five
or fix months old, I might have eafily tamed
it.

Among the four I had killed, there was a
young male feven feet one inch in height.
Its tufks weighed only about fifteen pounds
each.

The largeft of the reft, which were females, —
was only eight feet five inches in height; and
their tufks, in general, did not exceed fifteen
pounds each. —

A fingularity which aftonifhed both me and

* When the elephants are in a flock, and purfued, if
the firft that is fired at falls, one may be certain of killing
all the reft, one after the other. I fhall fpeak of this fin-
gularity hereafter.

ny

AF REC A, 237
my Hottentots, who affured me they had never
before feen it—and which naturalifts, according
to their laudable cuftom of receiving as certain
and invariable principles only what is related
in books, and by thofewho travel in their clofets,
will probably doubt—is, that the female, which
we judged to be the mother of the young male,
had only one teat, fituated in the middle of
her breaft. It was full of milk, fome of which
I fqueezed into my hand, and found it to be
very {weet ; but the tafte of it was far from
being agreeable: this milk iflued from eight
{mall orifices, very perceptible and difting.
The reft had two dugs, placed generally under
the breaft, of the fame form as thofe of wo-
men; and of fuch a fize, that more than one
lady of pleafure who has loft’ a little of her
plumpnefs, might have envied this charm in
my female elephants.

The young male which my imprudent Hot-
tentot killed, had no tufks; and when I open=
ed its lips a little, at the place from which they
{fhould have grown I perceived only a {mall
white knob, of the fize of a fwan fhot: its
flefh was extremely delicate. In one of the

females I hoped to difcover a foetus, but I was

deceived. I found their ftomachs filled with
5 a very

238 TRAVER Sia WN

a very limpid liquor, fome of which my peo-
ple drank, and which I alfo had the curiofity
to put to my mouth ; but it was fo difagreea-
bly naufeous, that to deftroy the 'tafte of it,
and to refrefh myfelf, I went and drank from
a {pring that happened to be at the diftance of
a quarter of a league from the place where we
were.

Having left my people bufy in cutting up
the elephants, when I returned from the {pring,
at the end of half an hour, I was much fur-
prifed to perceive nobody. I could not con-
jeCture what had obliged them to leave their
work; norcould I conceive the caufe of this
fudden defertion.. Beginning to bawl out as
loudly as I could, in order to recal them, in
cafe they fhould be near enough to hear me,
I was much aftonifhed when I faw them all
four come out of the elephant’s belly, into
which they had entered to detach the interior
fibres: thefe, next to the feet and the trunk,
are the moft delicate morfels.

I difpatched my fifth Hottentot to tell
Swanepoel to fend me a yoke of oxen and a
chain, As we had cut off the four heads when
they arrived, we began by putting the chain
through them; but it required no little art

and

AE ROT Ce, 239
and addrefs to make the oxen approach, and
to yoke them to the chain. They fnorted
violently, turned away their noftrils, and ftart-
ed back with horror. By ftratagem, however,
we were able to bring them back ; and they
_ were yoked to the four heads, which they
dragged to my tent, acrofs fands, duft, and
bufhes ftained with their blood: a horrid
{pectacle without doubt, but fill neceflary; as
the roads were fo bad that a waggon could
never have been conducted to the fpot. But
the cafe was {till worfe, when, being defirous
of returning to the elephants, near which I had
left a part of my people, I could not make my
horfe pafs thofe places which were tinged
with their blood. I was obliged to take another
route; and when we arrived near the ele-
phants, as foon as he faw and {melled them,
he capered and kicked in fo violent a man-
ner, that he threw me; and making off full
{peed, by a very long compafs returned to the
camp.

Iam again about to touch upon one of
thofe moments which do not twice occur in >
life. With what fenfations is my foul agitated !
I fhall curfe pleafure, and all its inventions.
One muft be a different being to combine fo

many

240 “TRAVELS @N

many ideas and various fentiments. He who
experiences them cannot fupport them; he
is agitated, opprefled, and borne down by
them. |

Being obliged to return on foot, I perceived
through the trees a ftrange Hottentot on horfe-
back, taking the neareft way to come up with ©
me. Having ftopped to wait for him, I found
that he was an exprefs fent by Mr. Boers.
He had received orders to enquire concerning
me in every part of the colonies through
which I might have paffed ; and to follow my
traces, when, quitting the known roads, I
fhould enter the diftant country. This man
had faithfully executed his commiffion ; and,
guided by the ruts of my wheels, had vifited
all my different encampments, and thence
proceeded till he found me.

Before I quitted the Cape, Mr. Boers had
promifed that if he received any letters for me
from Europe during my abfence, whatever
route I might purfue, or wherever I might
be, he would take care to convey them to me.
This refpetable friend kept his word; and
in the packet which his Hottentot put into
my hands I found feveral which bore the
French ftamp. As thefe were the firft ac-

counts

AFR ICR ieee
¢ounts I had received from Europe fince my
departure, it would be difficult to defcribe
with what impatience and agitation I received
them from the meflenger. Uncertain what
I was to learn from them, I had fcarcely
fireneth fufficient to open them ; and it may
be readily gueffed that I did not wait until I
had returned to the camp, to fatisfy myfelf on
this fubje&t. They were all from my deareft
friends, and my wife ; my eyes ran over them
quicker than lightning: but I every where
found caufe for being happy ; for I obferved
that I was beloved and regretted. ‘The ten-
dereft friendfhip came to feek me in the bofom
of my defarts, and to overwhelm my heart
with its delights. I could neither fpeak, figh,
nor weep—I could only remain in the fpot
where I was, ready to die with joy; but I
gradually recovered my fenfes, and returned
to my camp.

When thefe firft tranfports had fubfided, I
fhut myfelf up in my tent; and giving free
vent to my tears, which afforded me relief,
I immediately began to write anfwers to thefe
letters: I dated mine from the camp of Auteni-
qua, the day on which [ had killed four elephants.
One of thefe letters, which contained fome in-
meu. i. R terefling

242 TRAVERS ai N

terefting details, addreffed to a literary friend,
was ridiculoufly handed about fome years ago |
through Paris; and was afterwards loft. I
there mentioned feveral difcoveries which
contradi& opinions hitherto received; and
of which I fhall give an account in my
defcription of animals,

At night, when my camp was put in order,
and the fires kindled, I placed myfelf, as ufual,
with my papers before me on a piece of plank,
while my Hottentots fat around me.—‘* My
“ friends,” faid I, “ you behold one of your
“countrymen, whom Mr. Boers has fent to
“enquire in what fituation I am}; and to
*‘ know whether your behaviour be agree-
‘S able to what he expects from you, and to
“ your duty towards me. Behold, added J,
‘* fhewing them the firft letter that I put my
“hand upon—behold the anfwer which I
‘ have written; and in which I tell him that
“vou have hitherto behaved like honeft and
““ brave people; and that, during the eight
‘** months we have been travelling together, I
“ have confidered you as the faithful compa-
*‘ nions of my enterprife and labours. I tell
* un. that ie needs not be uneafy on my ac-
““ count, becaufe I have the fame confidence
G6 in

) 1 AF Ral cnay 243
© in you as in myfelf; and that Mr. Boers’s
e meffenger, on his retutn to the Cape; may
“ be able to affure your friends and families
“that you are well, and that you are con-
* tented and happy, I wifh him to be a wit-
& nefs of the amicable manner in which I treat
* you; and for this reafon I fhall diftribute
“to each of you an éxcellent roll of tobacco :
“ T hope, therefore, that all your pipes will
& be inftantly lighted.’—When my diftribu»
tion was finifhed, each retired to his place,
and {moked at his eafe. _

I was fo overjoyed with the teftimonies of
affeGtion which I received from my relations
and friends, with their fincere proteftations of
attachment, and with the accurate informa+
tion which they all gave me in their letters,
that, intoxicated with pleafure, forgetting
Africa, my hunting excurfions, my moft beau
tiful birds, and my elegant colleGtions, and in
a word for that moment becoming a child,
I devifed in otder to amufe me what might
among certain ranks be called a fe/val; and by
thofe of an inferior clafs a . farce.

I had been too generous in diftributing my
tobacco; and my people had received more
than was fufficient to intoxicate them, had I

| R2 permitted

Q44 TRAV E-LS‘A1N
permitted them to ufe it as they pleafed: but
I contrived a method to prevent them. Ob-
ferving that the third pipe was drawing to a
clofe, as foon as I had drank my tea I ordered
a {mall box to be brought me, which I placed
onmy knees. I opened it, and never did any
quack fhew more myfterious dexterity; I
drew from it that noble and melodious in-
f{trument unknown perhaps at Paris, but very .
common in fome of the provinces, and which
is feen in the hands of almoft every fchool-
boy and of the vulgar—in a word, a Jews
harp. Scarcely had I begun one of thofe
airs played on the Pont-Neuf, when I faw
every body with the utmoft filence lay down
their pipes, and flare at me with their mouths
wide open, their arms half extended, and their
fingers fpread, in the attitude of thofe people
whom fome old woman has bewitched. With
their ears attentive, and their heads motionlefs,
and inclined to one fide, they did not lofe the
leaft note of the inftrument; till, not being able
to reftrain their enthufiafm, each infenfibly
quitted his place, to enjoy the pleafure nearer..
Timaginedevery moment that I{hould fee them
all together proftrate themfelves before the god
who Shodan this wonder; whilftl could hardly
keep

‘A BR a Oe 245
keep from burfting out into a fit of laughter,
which would have foon diffipated the whole
charm. When I had done, I laid hold of
the perfon who was neareft me, and put the
wonderful lute into his hands: I found it
very dificult to make him comprehend the
-method of ufing it; but having at length
made him do it fome how or other, I fent
him back to his place. As I much doubted
whether the reft would be contented if they
had not one each, [ diftributed as many Jews
harps as I had Hottentots; and being all
collected, fome performing well, others badly,
and fome wretchedly, they regaled me with a |
concert that might have frightened the Furies,
Even my oxen, difturbed by their horrid hum-
ming, began to bellow; and all of a fudden
my camp became fuch a fcene of noife and
riot as was perhaps never feen. In every part
it exhibited the true picture of a holiday.

By the air of ftupefation which they exhibit-
ed whenI myfelf tried the ridiculous inftrument,
I was perfuaded that fimple minds may be ftruck
with aftonifhment by very fimple means; and
notwithftanding all that hiftory relates of the
great talents of Orpheus, and of the wonders
performed by his mufic, I am always inclined

R 3 tO

246 TRAVELS (aN

to allow much honour to thofe poets who have
celebrated this harmonious lyre, which their
imagination alone has confecrated.
- When I was fufficiently fatisfied with the
melody of mine, being afraid that thefe plea-
fantries might be changed into very ferious
alarms; and that my oxen, which had not yet
forgotten the elephants heads, might abfolutely |
be frightened, and run away, I made a fign
with my hand that I had fomething more to
fay, and immediately the noife ceafed. “ My
‘‘ dear friends,” added IJ, in a fimple and
affeGionate tone, “I have regaled you with
“the beft tobacco you ever tafted; I have
‘¢ made you acquainted with a wonderful in-
“ ftrument: we are now going to terminate
“ this delightful entertainment with a few
* bumpers of the -beft French brandy ; and
** we fhall drink to the health of our families
““ and friends.”

‘This, as I have faid, wasa real holiday; ; and,
even tomy domeftic animals, all muft fhare i in
the general frolic, and a& a part in our orgies,
Kees at this moment was clofe by my fide ;
a ftation which he was remarkably fond of,
and which he never failed every evening to
affume. Reared like a | child of the family, T

oe had

AP RICA: 247
had almoft fpoiled him; for I never eat or
drank any thing without allowing him part of
it. If I fometimes happened to forget him,
as he was a {worn enemy to my abfence of
thought, he took great care to roufe me from
my reveries by patting my hand, or f{macking
his lips. I have already faid that he was re-
markably gluttonous; his temperament led
him to.extremes ; for he was equally fond of
milk, and of ftrong liquors. I never gave him
any of the latter but in a plate, which I gene-
rally ordered to be placed before him; as I
obferved that every time he had drank it from
a glafs, his precipitation made him take as much
by the nofe as by the mouth, fo that he coughed
and f{neezed for whole hours, which incom-
moded him very much, and might have at
length caufed him to break fome blood veffel.

He was then on the ground clofe by me,
waiting till his allowance fhould be ferved up
tohim; and following with his eyes the bottle
which was pafling round, and which {topped
at each of my Hottentots. With what impa-
tience did he wait for his turn! How ftrongly
did he exprefs by his motions and looks that
he feared the cruel bottle would be emptied toa
foon, and would notreachhim! But, alas! the

R 4 unfors

2.48 TRAVELS AIN
unfortunate animal, while licking his lips by
anticipation, little knew that he was going to
tafte it for the laft time. But be not dejected,
O tender reader! My worthy Kees did not
perifh, and my brandy was faved for the
future.

Having finifhed my difpatches, and inclofed
them in their laft cover, at the moment when
he beheld with fatisfation that the bottle had
performed its round, it came into my head to
deceive his expeCtation by a trick, without any
other motive than to furprife him, and to amufe
myfelf. His allowance had been juft poured
into the plate ; and, whilft he was preparing to
tafte it, I lighted at my candle a flip of paper,
which | imperceptibly conveyed under his
belly: the brandy inftantly caught fire; Kees
fent forth a fhrill cry, and leaped to the
diftance of ten paces from me. I tried to
recal him, by offering him a thoufand carefles;
but, following the dictates of his own paffion
and anger, he immediately difappeared, and
retired to reft. Night being now pretty far
advanced, I received the compliments. and
thanks of my people; and all of us flept very
foundly.

‘Imuft obferve that, after this terrible fear
into

AF ROO 240

into which poor Kees was thrown, all the
means I employed to make the animal forget
what had paffed, and to bring him back to his
favourite liquor, were entirely fruitlefs. He
never would tafte a drop of it; on the con-
trary, he feemed to have conceived an impla-
cable averfion toit. When any of my people,
- for their amufement only, fhewed him the
bottle, he muttered between his teeth: and
fometimes when it was within his reach he |
would give it a blow; and, inftantly climbing
a tree, there thew his difpleafure in perfec
fecurity.

Next day, after having properly rewarded
Mr. Boers’s intelligent commiffioner, I deliver~
ed my difpatches to him, and ordered him to
fet out on his return.

_ In the morning I began to diffe@ the head
of one of the elephants, in which I left the
grinders and the tufks. During this operation,
feveral of my people, who had gone to procure
provifions, brought back abundance of fleth,
being fome of the moft fucculent parts of the
four elephants, which they cut into very long
and thin flices, in order that, being expofed to
the fun according to our ufual cuftom, they
might dry fooner. Some broke the bones into
} | 3 {mall

250 TRAVELS AIN

{mall pieces, and put them in our two kettles ;
after which they threw boiling water upon
them: in proportion as the greafe melted, it
floated on the furface; and being collected,
my people put it into bladders, and fome of
the inteftines, the better to preferve it. A
Hottentot never neglects to make this’ pro-
vifion ; for, befides what he daily ufes at his
toilette, he employs it alfo in cooking different
difhes. As for us, we never could find too -
much of it, as we were obliged to greafe the
wheels and traces of our waggons; which,
without this precaution, would have been foon
fo much dried by the fun as to be unfit for
fervice. I myfelf ufed it for candles and for
my night lamp, which wafted a great deal:
for want of {pun cotton I made wicks of my
neckcloths.

The preparing of this fat took us upa con-
fiderable time; and the operation was not
quite finifhed, when fome of my people came
to inform me that they had obferved an enor-
mous print of an elephant’s foot, at the diftance
of an hundred paces from my tent. As the
traces were quite frefh, I concluded this mon-_
ftrous animal could not have gone far; and I
immediately fet out in fearch of it. We ranged

| | the

AFRICA. 251
the foreft with great care; and having come
up with it at the end of half an hour, I took
aim at it in the proper place : but I was much
furprifed not to fee it fall; my fufee, in all
probability, muft not have been fufficiently
loaded, or the animal was an impenetrable
rock. However, when it found itfelf wounded,
it rufhed towards us with great fury, as we ex-
pected ; but the bufhes being thick, and ferving
us asa kind of rampart, it could do nothing
elfe than ftamp the earth, and fhew its rage in
vain. It loft a great deal of blood; but it
_ appeared, from the fwiftnefs with which it fled,
that it would be of no avail to purfue it. I
was extremely forry for this difappointment,
as it was the largeft I had ever before feen. It.
was at leaft thirteen feet in height; and, to
judge by the eye, its tufks could not have
weighed lefs than an hundred and twenty
_ pounds each.

When our provifions were thoroughly
dried and packed up, we departed, in or-
der to return once more towards the fatal
Kayman’s Hole, where I had paffed on the
3oth of April, two months before. My Hot-
tentots, whom I had fent to reconncitre, having
informed me that we could crofs the chain of
| Pies : ta mountains

252 TRAV. ELisa I N
mountains at one called the Devil's Head, we
purfued our courfe that way; and this gave
me an opportunity of revifiting the place of —
my encampment at Pampoen-Kraal, upon
which I once more caft a look of regret.—
When we arrived at the bottom of the moun-
tain, I ordered the elephant’s head I had dif-
feted, its tufks, and all my preferved birds
and infe@s, to be put upon one of the car-
riages; and again leaving my camp to the care
of faithful fervants, I] repaired with my wag
son to Mr. Mulder’s houfe; for, as I was ob-
liged to return in order to find a paflage, I
had approached very, near to his habitation.
Having engaged to tranfmit my packet and
frefh letters to Mr. Boers by the firft opportu-
nity, I at length took leave of this refpetable
family, whom I was never again to fee, and
went back to my camp.

Next morning, very early, we afcended the
mountain; not without much difficulty and
fatigue. But this was nothing in comparifon
of what we experienced in defcending on the
other fide: the view of it indeed frightened
me. As foon as we perceived it, we all looked
4t one another without uttering a fingle fylla-
ble, as people unexpeCtedly caught in a trap:

I we

we could not however remain on the fum-
mit; and it was neceflary that we fhould.
. defcend either on the one fide or the other.
If we efcaped from Charybdis, we were fill
expofed to the danger of falling into Scylla.
Always perfuaded that patience and precau-
tion will overcome the greateft obftacles, I
could not believe that this enterprize would
be more difficult for my caravan, than the paf-
fage of the Alps had formerly been to nume-
rous armies; and I immediately prepared, as
one may fay, for taking this dangerous leap. I
took care to make my carriages defcend one
after the other; and that they fhould be each
drawn by no more than two oxen. I caufed the
firft to advance in good order, efcorted by all
my people: but we were obliged to pafs over
pointed rocks, detached one from the other ;
which, forming fo many high fteps, gave the
waggon fuch jolts, as almoft broke it to pieces.
This however was not what appeared to us
to be moft dangerous; for, by the means of
ropes affixed to the wheels, we raifed them up,
or fuffered them to roll, as occafion might re-
quire: it was the {mooth places, and the flip-
pery declivities, that made us fhudder. At
every moment [thought I faw the carriage and
‘ this

ach TRAVELS IN

the oxen hurried to the brink of the precipice}
while, on the fide oppolite to the declivities,
we were pulling with all our force the ropes
faftened to the waggon. Our addrefs being
crowned with complete fuccefs, we afcended
to bring down the other two carriages; and,
after a confiderable time, the whole caravan
arrived fafe at the bottom of the. mountain.
It appeared to me that Nature had oppofed
this barrier, as an obftacle to prevent me from
entering on this new country; and that it was
here fhe had concealed her moft beautiful
treafures: on this account I had been fo much
the more incited to overcome every thing that
{tood in my way. I knew that this route
from Auteniqua to the Ange-Kloof was con-
fidered by the natives as impracticable ; and
that no perfon before me had ever attempt-
ed it with carriages. This was fufficient to
pique my vanity ; and I had the good fortune
to pafs thefe rocks: but, as if it had been necef-
-fary that punifhment fhould immediately fol-
low fuch a rath attempt, I found myfelf in 4
moft frightful and gloomy defart.

This was no longer the delightful and fer-
tile country of Auteniqua: the mountain
which we had croffed, or rather from which

we

AFRICA. Se Ses
we had precipitated ourfelves, formed a wall
of feparation between it and us forever. It
no longer prefented thofe majeftic forefts
which we had fo long admired ; for the whole
back part of the chain was hideous and bare,
deftitute of trees, and without the leaft appear-
ance of verdure. Another chain, parallel to this,
feemed involuntarily to bear a few paltry
woods, which had fome refemblance to that
named Wage-Boom. This wood, by inclof-
ing the country, and leaving only one open-
ing, has made the name of Ange-Kloof be
given, to this long valley.

My intention being to dire&t my courfe to-
wards the north, I continued my journey for
feven hours, keeping along that curfed valley ;
and we again crofled the Queur-Boom, which
here is but a moderate ftream ; whereas two
months before it had made me tremble, when,
to fearch for my bald buzzard, I threw my-
felf into it at its mouth with too much precipi-
tation, and narrowly efcaped being drowned.
Purfuing our melancholy route, after feveral
encampments no lefs tedious, and a march
of twenty-two hours, I paffled another river,
called, and very juftly, Krom-Rivier, or the
Crooked River. It formed fo many turns and

) windings,

926 TRAVELS iW

windings, that we continually found itin out
way: I croffed it ten times. In proportion as
we advanced, the two chains of mountains
feemed to approach each other on purpofe, and
the country to become confiderably narrower:
The valley was now only a marfhy hollow ;
which, for full fix leagues, occafioned great
fatigue to my oxen. We once more had a
view of the Krom-Rvvier ; but this was for the
laft time: it took its courfe towards the eaft,
where it throws itfelf into the fea; and we at
length turned altogether towards the north.
Here I left one of my horfes that was fick,
and which could not follow us; as I was un-
willing to wait in hope of a cure, which
perhaps might not fucceed. I thought it
would be much better to leave the care of his
prefervation to nature.

Along the Ange-Kloof there are a few
wretched houfes, which have more refem-
blance to the dens of wild beafts than to the
habitations of men. The inhabitants breed very
few cattle. When the eaft wind blows acrofs
this wild country, it is exceflively cold: I
_was fenfible of it from the very firft to the laft
day. Every morning we had ice and white
frofts. I do not exactly know the length of this

difmal

AFRICA. 289
difmal valley; but I am certain that I employed
forty-fix hours in going through it.

After advancing feven or eight leagues, [I
crofled Diep-Rivier, the Deep River ; and ten
leagues farther, on the 7th of Auguft, we en-
camped upon the borders of that of Gamtoos.
It derives its name from an unfortunate cap-
tain who in a ftorm was fhipwrecked near
its mouth. : |

Half an hour before we arrived here, we
were obliged to defcend another very fteep
and dangerous mountain, by which the bel-
lies of two of my oxen burft, fo that their
bowels came out. This lofs was occafioned
by the perfon who condudted my fecond wag-
gon, and who had imprudently quitted it.

The beautiful afpec& of this new country
made us ample amends for the melancholy
moments we had feveral days experienced,
amidft the deteftable roads and the ice of the
valley of the Ange-Kloof.

The firft night I encamped, towards mid-
night, before I had fallen afleep in my tent, I
thought [ heard an unufual noife: and liften-
ing with attention, I found I was not deceived;
for I could diflinguith the found of fhouting
and finging, which feemed to proceed from:

WoL, I. S no -

258 TRAVELS AlN

no great diftance. I immediately calléd my
people, who told me that they alfo heard a
confufed noife; but we did not know whether
it was occafioned by Hottentots or Cafires. 1
had great reafon to be afraid of the latter ; not
that they thirft more after human blood, as
ignorant writers havé faid; but becaufe the
cruel manner in which they are treated by the
planters, incites them more to war, and becaufe
the right of avenging injuries is natural to
man. I fhall foon relate feveral facts, which
will prove, better than vain reafonings, whe-
ther a favage or an European is the moft bar-
barous.

As it was probable that I might be con-
founded among the vidtims of their vengeance,
I ordered all my people to be under arms,
and we removed to fome diftance from our
camp. ‘The farther we marched the noife-
became more diftinét ; and we obferved fome
fires. [could not however perfuade myfelf
that they were Cafires ; for they would have
betrayed themfelves: artifice in vain borrows
the darknefs of night, it muft alfo borrow its
filence.

Having placed myfelf in ambufh, that I
might be able to furprife them, in cafe they

fhould

AFR IC Ay 289
- fhould pafs that way to plunder my camp, I
detached two of my people to take a nearer
view of them ; who immediately returned to
inform me that we had been alarmed with-
out any caufe; and that they were only a
horde of Hottentots, who were finging and
making merry. This intelligence freed me from
my uneafinefs, and I was even happy in my ad-
venture, which feemed to promife next morn-
ing a very interefting interview. We therefore
returned to our camp, and flept very foundly:

Early in the morning I was again awakened
by a warbling, which afforded me no lefs
pleafure. It proceeded from birds which I did
not know, and which [had never before heard.
1 found them moft beautiful. I was dazzled
by the brilliant and variable plumage of the
_ copper-coloured ftarling, the amethy‘t-coloured
throat of the certhia flaveola*, the courou-
coucou fT, the king’s-hunter, and of a great
many others: I obferved alfo feveral {pecies
which I had never before feen.

Game appeared to me to be very abundant
in this place. I faw, above all, innumerable

* In the original fucrier ; called alfo by Briffon grim-
perau ; and by Sir Hans Sloan, in his Natural Hittory
of Jamaica, the black and yellow bird.

+ Curucui, a Brafilianbird. Trogon Linn, T.

S 2 flocks

260 TRAVEL Sia N

flocks of pheafants, and a few of thofe ante-
lopes called bos-bock, pafs before me. ‘The
facility I found in procuring all thefe animals,
of which I had never feen fo great plenty
any where, in{pired me with the greateft joy.

Whilft I amufed myfelf with firing at the
birds, I permitted my Hottentots to go and
pay a vilit to their countrymen. An acquaint-
ance was, in a little time, formed with this
favage horde ; I myfelfin my turn went up to
them, and we were foon both fatisfied with one
another. ‘Their women every evening brought
us a large quantity of milk; for thefe people
were very rich in cattle. They made me a
prefent of a few fheep, to which they added a
noble pair of oxen for my carriages; and as I
was not willing to remain in their debt, I gave
them fome earthen ware, a {mall quantity of
tobacco, and a few knives. All my people —
infinuated themfelves infenfibly into the kraal;
each then had his doxy, and the female {qua-
dron came and: eftablifhed themfelves among
us during the whole time of our abode.

T learned that at the. mouth of this river I
might meet with fome hippopotami, or river
horfes, none of which I had ever feen. As I was
only five or fix miles diftant from the fea, and
on that account had it in my power, perhaps,

to

APrTREVTOCR:: 261

to be acquainted for the firft time with this
{pecies of quadrupede, I fet out with the utmoft
fpeed. ‘The river however was fo broad, and
its banks were fo encumbered with large trees,
that my labour and refearches were in vain.
I fpent whole days in walking along its fhores;
and in the night time I placed myfelf on the
watch, in hopes of feeing fome of them come
forth from the water to feed ; but I never had
even that fatisfaction.

To make me amends, elephants and buffaloes,
efpecially the latter, were fo common, and eafy
to be killed, that we had more provifions than
we could ufe. I fupplied the former hufbands
of our women with great abundance: being
better armed than they, I hunted only for
them ; fo that I obliged them in every man-
ner pofible. Thus, amidft the defarts of Africa,
I introduced the cuftoms and polite manners
of the moft civilized nations of Europe. -I_
muft here remark, that if fome hiftorians have
faid that the Hottentots are of a jealous dif-
pofition, thofe whom we met with were not
fufceptible of that cruel paffion. Had I after-
wards found any hordes fubje& to it, I fhould
have mentioned this circumftance with the
Jame veracity.

262 TR AV EoL/Se IN -

My engaging behaviour had fecured me the
friendfhip and confidence of thefe honeft fas
vages; and they entertained fo high an opinion
of me, that they never undertook any thing
without confulting me. One day having come
to complain that the hyznas of the country
ravaged and deftroyed their flocks, I was the
more inclined to believe what they faid, as one
of iny oxen had juft been devoured by the fame
animals. Charmed at having an opportunity
of hunting thefe ferocious beafts along with
them, I appointed next day for our excurfion ;
and early in the morning they arrived at my
camp, to the number of about an hundred
men, all well armed with bows and arrows.
To thefe [added all my hunters 3 and, putting
myfelf at their head, we beat the whole coun-
try round with our dogs. With fuch a number
of people [hoped to make a general flaughter
among thefe deftructive animals; but three
fhots which we fired, and which killed three of
them, had apparently difperfed all the reft. Af-
ter this we faw none of them; for the noife had
fo frightened them, that, from that moment
till the time of our departure, we heard no
more of the hyxnas than if they had never

exifted. es

Somg

Ark Ry bGi ag 263

Some days after we had an alarm which
might have become ferious. In the mid-
dle‘of the night we were all at the fame time
awakened by a frightful noife, proceeding from
a troop of elephants, which in pafling us
almoft brufhed againft our camp : in number
they might be about an hundred. On this oc-
cafion I was under fuchdreadful apprehenfions,
which my people fhared along with me, that
we did not think proper to infult this formi-
dable battalion, nor to difpute their paiflage.
Had I attempted it, my camp, my animals,
my carriages, and all my people, would in a
moment have been crufhed to atoms. ‘They
however did not ftop, and my camp remained.
perfectly fafe.

At the break ‘of day we received a vifit from.
- our neighbours, who had been expofed to the
fame terrors. "They came exprefsly to inform
me that, if I fhould ever again meet with the
fame f{pecies, | ought to be very cautious not to .
fire at them; as the elephants we had feen were
extremely dangerous, and much more mifchie-
vous than the reft. They affured me that their
flefh was good for nothing; that it occafioned
ulcers to thofe who eat it ; and, in a word, that
oer’ red elephants. = Rhed elephants! ‘This

S4 word

264 TRAVELS IN |
word alone infpired me with a ftrong defire to
fee them, and feemed to promife the acquire-
ment of frefh knowledge; for I had never read
orheard that there were red elephants.

When thefe animals retired into the woods,
they had reached a deep hollow, furrounded
by enormous bufhes, where it would not have
been prudent to approach too near them. I

_ therefore ordered fome Hottentots to file off

behind, and to forma ring; bidding them
fet fire, at certain diftances, to the dry grafs;
and to difcharge fome fhots, to make them
pafs by the bottom of a large rock, upon
which IJ had pofted myfelf with my beft mark{-
men, and where we could be expofed to ng
kind of danger.

My rangers feconded my efforts in a won-
derful manner; for as foon as the fires and
the noife of the reports had fpread the alarm,
the whole troop, frightened, prefented them-
felves before me. A dozen of fhots, which
they did not expect, made them retreat with
precipitation, and in the greateft diforder, I
fhould in vain attempt to defcribe the number-
lefs figns which they exhibited of their fury:
on one fide they faw themfelves purfued by
the flames of the bufhes, which gained on

| : them

AFRICA. 264
them behind; and on the other by my fhots,
which J dire&ted to the only paflage that re-
mained for them to efcape death, They agi-
tated their bodies as much as the enormity and
_ heavinefs of them would permit ; while their
deafening cries, and the crafhing of the trees
which they broke in retreating or flying,
formed fuch a dreadful tumult, that the fight
of it frightened me, though I was fheltered
by my rock, and could not be difturbed in any
manner. We wounded one, which for a
moment feparated from the troop; but it
foon joined them ; and being confounded with
the reft, it would have been very difficult to
take aim at it again. From the nature of its
bellowing, I imagine it was mortally wound-
ed, and that it could not long furvive; but
we did not think proper to go immediately in
fearch of it, being firmly perfuaded that it
could not efcape us.

In this new kind of hunting I had no other
view than to procure one of thefe animals ;
which were faid to be of a different fpecies
from all thofe I had before feen. Satisfied
with having wounded one, and confidering it
as certainly dead, I refolved not to go in fearch
of it till the next morning; I confequently

recalled

266 TRAVEL StaawW

recalled all my people, and we returned to our
camp. I had indeed been ftruck with the
reddith colour of thefe animals; and I found
this phenomenon extraordinary: but having
remarked that the ground upon which we then
were had almoft the fame tint; and refleGting
that the elephant is fond of wallowing in moult
and marfhy places, and even fpends a part of
its time in this manner, I doubted whether
this colour could be owing to any other caufe,
and whether it was not purely faCtitious.

Next morning, however, I was better convin-
ced, when, on returning to the wood with my
people, I found the elephant dead. Every body
was perfuaded that our neighbours were de-
ceived; and though they had mentioned that it
was dangerous to eat of this fpecies, they cut
off the trunk for me,and referved for themfelves
the other parts of the animal. I afterwards met
feveral planters, who believed alfo that there
were red elephants; and whatever pains I took
to free them from their error, I could not
convince them ; fo much were they prejudiced
in favour of their own opinion.

The one I killed, which was a festa was
nine feet three inches in height: one of its
tufks weighed thirteen pounds, and the other

tens

i

“Vo ARR TOA 264
ten. The elephant, whether male or female,
has always the left tufk fhorter and flenderer
than the right; it is alfo more fmooth and
fhining. ‘To account for this difference it
muft be obferved, as I have already faid, that
it is always from left to right that the animal
conveys its food with its trunk to its mouth.
The brambles or branches on which it feeds
occafion a continual fri€tion againft that tufk,
whilft the right is fcarcely ever touched: befides,
itis with the fame tufk that it 1s accuftomed to
found the earth ; and by the fize of the holes
which it makes one may judge of its bulk,

When I defcribe the elephant, I thall fpeak
of its manners, paflions, and taltes ; at an
this fubject I fhall advance nothing but what
T have feen.

I began to take great pleafure in this kind
of hunting, which I found much lefs danger-
ous than amufing. I could not then conceive,
nor have I been {ince able to comprehend,
why authors and travellers have filled with fo
many falfehoods the relations which they have
written of the ftrength and fagacity of thefe
animals; and given {cope to their imaginations —
gefpecting the dangers to which thofe who
eat puriue

268 TRAVELS GIN

purfue them are expofed. It muft indeed be
allowed that, if any one is fo thoughtlefs and
fool-hardy as to attack an elephant on plain
open ground, he is certain of being deftroyed
if he miffes his aim ; but if the hunter knows
how to take his advantages, all the ftrength
of the animal muft yield to his coolnefs and
addrefs. I confefs that the appearance of an
elephant caufes an aftonifhment which at firft
renders one almoft ftupid ; it 1s awful and ter-
rible: but, with a little courage and. compofure,
one foon becomes accuftomed to its afpect.
Before he attempts this grand kind of hunting,
a prudent man! fhould endeavour to examine
the character, the gait, and the refources of the
animal ; and he ought, above all, according to
circumftances, to fecure fome places of retreat,
to fhelter him from danger, in cafe he fhould
be purfued after having miffed. By means of
thefe precautions, this fpecies of hunting is
only an amufing exercife; a game in which
there is fifty to one to be laid in favour of the
player. |
- Whilft I remained in this canton I varied
my encampments as well as my occupations ;
but I always was much attached to the de-
: lightful
A

AFRICA. 269
lightful banks of the Gamtoos. I here made
an ample harveft of rarities, and my collec-
tion increafed very fenfibly.

On the 11th of September, at fix in the
morning, we decamped. I had informed the
neighbouring horde of my intention, and it
was with the utmoft regret that they faw us
depart. As for me, I could not leave them
without being fenfibly affeted. Thefe good
people had infpired me with a very {trong at-
tachment. “ Can fo much mildnefs and fim-
“ plicity,” faid I, ‘* excite fo great contempt?
“ Are thefe then the favages of Africa, who
“ thirft after the blood of Europeans, and who
© cannot be approached without horror?” This
goodnefs and affability gave me the greater
confidence, as I was then really in the midft
of a defart, and as nothing feemed to threaten
me with danger in future. All this country,
which is inhabited only by hordes of the
Gonaquas, differs effentially from that belong-
ing to the Hottentots of the colony. Thefe
people have no direct intercourfe one with an-
other: the former are called /avage Hottentots.
Before I proceed any farther I fhall make a.
few obfervations, without which one could

7 only

te TRAVERS IN
only form very imperfed ideas refpedting
them. Age

They no longer compofe, as formerly, one
nation, uniform in their manners ,cuftoms,
_and purfuits. The eftablithment of the Dutch
colony was a fatal epoch, which difunited
them all, and occafioned thofe differences by
which they are at prefent diftinguifhed.

In 1652, when Riebeck the furgeon, on
his return from India, opened the eyes of the
Directors of the Company refpecting the im-
portance of an eftablifhment at the Cape, they
wifely thought that fuch an enterprife could
not be better executed than by the genius
which had planned it. Furnifhed therefore
with ample powers, and being provided with
provifions, and every thing that could con-
tribute to the fuccefs of his proje@, Riebeck
foon arrived at Table Bay. Like an able
politician, and a fkilful negociator, he em-
_ployed every method in his power to fecure
the friendthip of the Hottentots; and he co-
vered with honey the edge of the poifoned
bowl. Gained over by powerful allurements,
thefe favages, the unlimited mafters of all this
part of Africa, did not perceive how many of

their

AFRICA; aya
their rights, and how much authority, repofe,
and happine(s, this guilty profanation deprived
them of. Indolent by nature, true citizens of

_ the world, and little addicted to agriculture,

theywere not uneafy that ftrangers fhould feize
ona fmall corner of ufelefs land, which was
often uninhabited. They thought that whether
a little farther, or a little nearer, it was of no
importance where their flocks, the only riches
worthy of engaging their attention, fought —
for their food, provided they could find it. The

avaricious policy of the Dutch had a view of
great hopes from fo peaceful a beginning ; and
as it is readier, and knows better than any
other to embrace the advantages offered it by
fortune, it did not fail to finifh the work, by
holding out two very feducing allurements to
the Hottentots—tobacco and ftrong liquors. ©
From that moment thefe unhappy favages bid
adieu to their liberty, and to that pride which —
is infpired by a fenfe of thofe rights which
mankind inherit from nature. Attracted by
thefe two baits, they approached as near as
they could to the fource from which they re-
ceived them; whilft the Dutch, who for a
pipe of tobacco, or a glafs of brandy, could
procure an ox, paid every attention in their
| power

292 TRAVELS JN

power to fo valuable neighbours. The colony
infenfibly increafing, and acquiring more
ftrength, that formidable power which dic«
tated laws to all this part of Africa, and
removed to a great diftance every thing that
attempted to oppofe its eager ambition, was
feen to rife on foundations that could no
longer be fhaken. The fame of its profperity
was foon fpread, and drew thither every day
a number of new fetilers. It may be eafily
judged that, according to the ufual practice,
founded upon a logic which deftroys the laws ©
of property, fo facred and fo: refpeCtable, the
will of the ftronger party was a fufficient title
for it to extend its poffeffions, The Dutch
feized indifcriminately at feveral times, and
even without having occafion for them, on
all the lands which government, or individuals
favoured by government, thought i: or
found convenient.

The Hottentots, thus confined, preffed, and
haraffed on all fides, divided themfelves, and
purfued plans entirely oppofite. ‘Thofe who
were ftill interefted in the prefervation of their
flocks, penetrated among the mountains to-
wards the north and north-eaft; but thefe were
the fewer number. The reft, ruined by afew

- giailes

AFRICA. 273
elafles of brandy, and a few rolls of tobacco, —
impoverifhed and ftripped of every thing, did
not think of quitting their country; but ab-
folutely renouncing their manners, as well as
their ancient and happy condition, of which
they have no remembrance at prefent, they
bafely fold their fervices to the whites, who
of fubmiffive ftrangers having fuddenly be-
come haughty matters, and enterprifing plant-
ers, have not fufficient hands to turn to ads
vantage their immenfe riches; and who eafe
themfelves of the painful and-multiplied la-
bours requifite on their plantations, by laying
them upon thefe unfortunate Hottentots, more
and more degenerated and corrupted.

A few paltry and miferable hordes have
indeed eftablifhed themfelves,#and live as they
can, in different cantons of the colony; but
they have not even the power of choofing
their own chief. As they are in the diftrict
of government, and under its authority, the
right of naming him belongs entirely to the
governor. ~The perfon whom he choofes re
pairs to the town, and receives a large cane,
much like that of our couriers; but with this
difference, that the knob of it is only of pure
copper: after which a crefcent or gorget,

Vor, I. T form

274. TRAVWVE BSI N

formed of the fame metal, upon which is en-
graven in large letters the word capitem, is
put round his neck as a badge of his dignity.
From that moment his melancholy horde,
which for a long time has loft its national
name, aflumes that of the new chief who has
been fet over it. They will then fay, for
example, the horde of captain Kees, who be-
comes to the governor a new creature, a new
fpy, and a new flave, and to his own country-
men a new tyrant.

The governor himfelf is never perfonally
acquainted with thofe whom he appoints. It
is generally the planter neareft the horde who
folicits and determines the nomination for one
of his own creatures; becaufe he trufts that a
low perfon whom he has in this manner pa-
tronized will not be ungrateful, and that he
will have all his vaflals ready at his fervice
when necefiity may require. Thus without
any preliminary information, and even with-
out any regard to juflice, a helplefs and feeble
horde are obliged to receive laws from a man
often incapable of commanding them; and
thus does the intereft of one individual prevail
over the general good both in great and little
affairs: and it is. thus that the revolutions of a

7 republic,

ABR @ Ca, 275
republic, and the puerile ele€tion of the fyndic
of a village, proceeding from the fame princi-
ple, are equally fimilar in their effects.

Such in general are the Hottentots known
under the name of the Hottentots of the Cape,
or Hottentots of the colonies: but we muft
not confound with them the favage Hotten-
tots, who by way of derifion are called the
Jackal-Hotientots ; and who, far removed from
the arbitrary Dutch government, ftill preferve
in the defart which they inhabit all the puri-
ty of their primitive manners.

I was now arrived at that point in my
journey, where having no more intercourfe
with the former, whom I had left behind me,
I found myfelf in the middle of the latter;
but it is not neceffary that I fhould here enter
particularly into all the different marks by
which they are diftinguifhed. To convey
fome idea of the character of the favage Hot-
tentots, and of what I had to expe from
them, it will be fufficient to offer one remark,
which is atruth confirmed by experience. In
all countries wherever the favages are abfo-
lutely feparated from civilized nations, and

live fequeftered, their manners are mild; but
they change and become corrupted the nearer
y they

6) TRAV Shar.

they approach them. When the Hottentots
live amongft them, it is very rare that they do
not become monfters. This affertion, how-
ever mortifying it may be, is neverthelefs a
irue principle, which is {carcely liable to one
exception. When’ to the northward of the
Cape I found myfelf under the tropic, among
remote nations; when I faw whole hordes
furround me with figns of furprife, and of the
moft childifh curiofity, and, approaching me
with confidence, ftroke my beard, my hair, and
my face with their hands—* I have nothing
“‘ to fear from thefe people,” faid I to myfelf ;

“this is the firft time they ever faw a white

GC 39
e

man
I have entered into this digreflion with the
greater readinefs, as it is of fome importance |
to fix the reader's attention to this part, which
isthe moft interefting of all my excurfions and
travels. I eagerly return to it; and I always
. experience a new pleafure in relating thefe
fimple but delightful adventures.

The whole horde, who could with difficulty |
feparate from me, accompanied me as far as the |
river Louri, four leagues from the Gamtoos;
where we ftopped to take leave of our good |
friends, and to regale them with fome glafles of |
| brandy, |

AF Rai Oke . 294

brandy, and a few pipes of tebacco. The wo-
men, who during my refidence in the neigh-
bourhood of their kraals had attached them-
felves to my Hottentots, and who perhaps re-
gretted a little the lofs of my kitchen, abfo-
lutely infifted upon following us. But I had
often remarked, though I pretended not to ob-
ferve it, that my people had feveral times quar-
relled; and the confequence was, that they had
relaxed in their fervice: on this account I ob- |
ftinately perfifted in refufing to fuffer thefe
women to accompany us, or to remain with me.
One only appeared to me to be very active: I
found that fhe took great care of my cows and
my goats, and that fhe wafhed my linen well.
Thefe reafons concerned my own perfon; but
another motive pleaded very powerfully in her
favour. My faithful Klaas .had conceived a
violent affection for her: to feparate them
would have been to tear two hearts at once, ta
be fevere without any advantage, and to be
cruel towards one who would have facrificed
his life for me on every occafion. By a policy,
therefore, contrary to that which any other
would have adopted, I refolved. to retain her.
This mark of preference fhewed how far I
diftinguifhed Klaas from his companions ;

fhe whether

278 TRAVELS ALN |.

whether it proceeded from injuftice or weak-
nefs, I could not refift the defire of making at
leaft one happy, fince all could not be fo ; and
I afterwards had no caufe to repent of my con-
duct. To this woman I gave the name of
Ragel, ‘Thofe fervices which fhe had always
performed were affigned to her; and fhe
attended me every where till the end of my

journey. eon
After the departure of the horde, we con-
tinued our route; but a violent ftorm obliged
us to ftop at Galgebos. It was five in the after-
noon when we halted: the place was far from
being deftitute of beauties, and I would gladly
have remained here fome time; but ve could
not find a fingle rivulet. We therefore croffed
the river Van-Staade, at the diftance of two
leagues ; and unyoked at feven on the borders
of a lake, where we could procure water fufi-

cient for our whole caravan. |
To how many ufeful proceffes and inven-
tions does not chance fometimes give birth!
{t often ferves us better, and by means much
_more fimple, than any of thofe fuggefted by
our own lights, our combinations, or our know-
ledge.. Of this truth I received a convincing
proof even in the place in which I had ftopped.
The»

SIN
WY NY

WS
2

on
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A HOTTENTOT WOMAN
in full Drefs.

AFROCH 276
The horde from whom I feparated had

come in the morning to bring ta my camp a
large fupply of milk; with which I filled a
pitcher almoft to the brim, and placed itin my
waggon, intending to ufe it on my journey
for quenching my thirft. The ftorm by which
we were overtaken had fo cooled me, that I did
not touch it during the day: butin the even-
ing, after our fires were kindled, being defirous
of diftributing it among my people, I found
that it was become four. I therefore ordered
it to be put into a veffel to regale my dogs ;
but I was much aftonifhed to find it converted
into moft excellent and beautiful butter, for -
which I was indebted to the jolting of my
waggon. ‘This difcovery, which I afterwards
put in practice during the reft of my journey,
procured me, befides frefh butter, a moft falu-
tary fupply of buttermilk, which I frequently
made ufe of, and which doubtlefs contributed
to preferve me vigorous and in good health.
The day following we were prevented from
again fetting out by a fecond ftorm, which
was really dreadful. The hail that fell was as
large as pullets eggs ; and my cattle fuffered fo
much, that I was under great uneafinefs for
them. One of my the goats was fo feverely

eae wounded,

280 TRAV EES? s.N

wounded, that I was obliged to kill her: this
indeed was a real lofs. I regretted her much,
for fhe was about to bring forth young.

The weather at length changing, we quit-
ted our lake; and about noon, after crofling
two rivers, the great and the little Swaar-Kops,
I ordered my oxen to be unyoked on the banks
of the latter. Having obferved the prints of fome
animal’s feet with which I was not acquainted,
my people, to whom I fhewed them, aflured
me that they were not thofe of the rhinoceros.
Whilft my camp was arranging, | followed
thefe traces; but night coming on made me
fofe them, and I returned without having feen
any thing. On this river, which was pretty
confiderable, we found another horde of fa-
vages. The kraal was compofed of nine or ten
huts, inhabited only by fifty or fixty perfons
at molt. , Thefe people advifed me not to crofs -
the river Boffiman, which paffes near this
place: they faid it would be much better to
turn of to the left, and to puth farther into
the interior part of the country, to avoid a
numerous troop of Caffres, who often alarmed |
that canton, and carried fire and fword along
with them ; that nothing was feen every where
around but diforder and pillage, fields ravaged,

and

A ly RY @ aA. 281

and habitations laid wafte and reduced to
afhes; that the proprietors, to avoid fudden |
and certain death, had abandoned their pof-
feffions, dragging behind them a few feeble
remains of their flocks; and that, in a word,
I ought not to approach the country of Caf-
fraria. So alarming a caution, I muft own, at
firft ftartled me a little: I immediately affem-
bled my people, and we deliberated what plan
it would be moft prudent to purfue. I was
very defirous of founding the difpofition of
every one. Their unanimous opinion, which
coincided very well with my private intention,
was, that we fhould firft avoid, but not in fuch
a manner as to retard us too much, this dan-
gerous troop of Caffres ; that, as we were very
near them, we ought always to be on our
guard both night and day; that, to prevent
being furprifed, we fhould never encamp but
in the open country; chat our oxen, when
out at pafture, fhould be prote¢ted by four
en, armed with fufees; that my horfes fhould
never quit the ftakes to which they were tied,
that in cafe of an alarm they might be always
at hand ; and that my large fufee, well loaded,
fhould remain at the camp; and that three
fhois, fired at equal intervals, fhould be a fig-
; | nal

282 . TRAVELS faa

nal for thofe, who on account of their differ-
ent occupations might be obliged to go to too
great a diftance from the common center, to
rejoin the main body.

When we had taken thefe precautions, and
given proper inftruCtions for their being ob-
ferved, I mounted my horfe; and, followed by
two of my people well iri made a firic
fearch every where around, to difcover whe-
ther any of the Caffres were ranging in the
neighbourhood, ready to fire upon the firft
that I might fee concealed with a view to.
furprife us, in cafe I fhould find it impoffible
to take him prifoner. Not one however ap-
peared. Having advanced a little farther after
dinner, I perceived that the river, aS far as its
_ mouth, was bordered with prickly trees; that
the ground near it was fandy, and covered with
underwood ; and that its environs abounded
with game, fome of which I killed for provi-
fion. As we faw no appearance that could
give us any uneafinefs, I was convinced we
had then nothing to fear from thefe Caffres,
‘faid to be fo terrible. I ordered my camp to
be moved next morning, and we quitted the
| Swaar-Kops. The horde of Hottentots, terri-
fied merely by the name of thefe cruel aveng-_
| we | on Van eT8,

A ER DGSA, 283
ers, propofed that we fhould eftablith ourfelves
at a confiderable diftance thence, that we
might not be in the neighbourhood of Caffra-
ria; and, when they faw me depart, they
afked permifion to follow me, and: to put
themfelves under the protection of my camp.
‘This requeft I readily complied with; and
though at bottom I was overjoyed at their
propofal, I artfully made a merit of it, as much
with a defign to keep them dependant upon
me, as to give {pirits to my people by this for-
‘midable body, and to fupport their courage.
Nothing more fortunate could have occurred;
I reinforced my troop ; and, befides the parti-
cular refources of this horde, I had the advan-
tage of my artillery, which could oppofe whole
clouds of afflagays *, and baffle all the efforts
of an army of favages, fhould I be well fecond-
ed. In lefs than two hours ail the huts were
taken down and packed up, and with other
effects put on the backs of our fpare oxen.

I firft made the half of the men belonging
to this horde fet out before me, with all their
cattle, giving them two-of my people well
armed to efcort them. They carried with

_ * A kind of lance which the Caffres ufe with much
sexterity. |
, them

284. TRAVELS saw

them alfo one of my horfes; that, in cafe of
any accident, they might be able to give me
earlier intelligence of it.

An hour after I ordered my relays, cows,
fheep, goats, and all the women of the horde,
with their children mounted upon their oxen,
io follow them, and a party of their men to
march behind. This company was efcorted
alfo by fix of my chafleurs. My three carriages,
with the reft of my people, clofed the rear. I
amyielf, mounted on my beft horfe, in order that
I might have my eye every where, rode back-
wards and forwards on the wings, and from
right to left, continually afraid of being fud-
denly furprifed; for I can fafely affert that,
had the leader been once_difmounted, the reft
of the caravan would have been expofed to the
moft horrid butchery, and muft have become
the prey of the moment. |

I was completely armed. In the fide pockets
of my breeches I carried a pair of double-bar-
relled piftols; I had another pair of the fame
kind at my girdle; my double-barrelled fufee
was flung at the bow of my faddle; and a
large fabre hung by my fide, and a poniard
or dagger from the button-hole of my veft: I
could therefore fire ten times almoft in a

a moment.

AFR} CA 285

moment. This arfenal incommoded me con-
fiderably at firft; but I never quitted it, both
on account of my own fafety, and becaufe by
this precaution I feemed to increafe the con-
fidence of my people. My arms, doubtlefs,
appeared to them to correfpond with my refo-
Jutions; and, full of this idea, each purfued
his way with the utmoft compofure, leaving
to me the care of defending them.

This caravan on its march exhibited a fin-
gular and amufing fpeétacle—I may even fay
grand. The turns which it was obliged to
make in following the windings of the bufhes
and rocks, continually gave it new forms; and
thefe points of view varied every inftant.
Sometimes it entirely difappeared from my
fight; and all of a fudden, from the fummit
of a fmall eminence, I would again difcover
at a diftance my van-guard flowly advancing |
towards a mountain; while the main body,
who without confufion, and in fine order,
were following the traces of thofe who had
preceded them, was almoft below me. The
women fuckled their children, and gave them
food and drink feated on their oxen by them;
fome wept, others fung or laughed ; and the
men, {moking a focial pipe, converfed together,

, having

286 TRAX Ey Sos WN

having no. longer the appearance of people
terrified at the approach of an enemy.
Entertaining a little more uneafinefs than
thefe walking machines, I was fully fenfible
of my critical fituation; and on the back
of my beaft indulged in philofophical re-
veries. At the diftance of three thoufand
Jeagues from Paris, the only perfon of my
{pecies among fo many natives, furrounded
and watched by the moft ferocious animals, I
could not help being filled with admiration, to
fee myfelf condudting, for the firft time, in the
defarts of Africa, a favage horde, who, fub-
mitting voluntarily to my orders, executed
them blindly, and committed entirely to me
the care of their prefervation. Taken collec-
tively, I had nothing to fear from them; ne-
verthclefs I faw fome among them who would
have made me tremble, if, in fingle combat,
ftrength alone had been to decide the conteft :
but at bottom I was fully convinced, that here,
as well as elfewhere, it was not the ftrongeft
but the moft fkilful that commanded. |
We had not advanced very far, when my
dogs, which were ranging through the bufhes
on every fide, began to ftop and to bark. My

companions were inftantly filled ,with terror ;
imagining

AFRICA. 287

imagining that we had fallen in with fome
Caffres, placed in ambufh to intercept us; but
I paid very little attention to their abfurd rea-
foning. I thought it was impoflible that my
advanced guard could have pafled, without be-
ing attacked ; and I perceived that they were
peaceably purfuing their journey, without the
leaft appearance of diforder. I therefore put
purs to my horfe ; and advancing through the
bufhes, was much aftonifhed to find only a por-
cupine, furrounded by my dogs, from which it
was endeavouring to defend itfelf. I imme-
diately killed it; ‘and fearing le&% the report of
my mufket might lead my people into an
error, and induce them to take fome rafh ftep,
I returned towards them, and by ridiculing
their timidity convinced them that I was not
daunted by trifies. :

The porcupine defends itfelf in a wonderful
manner. Its quills fhelter it from every at-
tempt; and, when a dog approaches, it artfully
eludes him, makes its attack on his flank,
and, when he is once wounded he never again
returns to the charge. Some of the quuils al-
ways remain flicking in his fiefh, which damp
his courage, and caufe him to betake himfelf
to flight. One of my Hottentots, who had

been

/
/

288 TRAVELS OM
been wounded in the leg by one of them, was
ill for more than fix months. |

Mr. Mallard, an officer belonging to the
regiment of Pondicherry, at the Cape of Good
Hope, being pricked in hunting one of thefe
animals, had nearly loft his leg by the wound ;
and, notwithftanding all the care that was taken
of him, he fuffered dreadful tortures for more
than four months, during the firft of which he
was confined to his bed.

The porcupine, however, is excellent eating;
and its flefh is often ferved up on the genteeleft
tables at the Cape, after it has been carefully
{moked.

After travelling an hour and a half I or-
dered my caravan to halt; but we ftopped no
longer than was neceflary to collect a fuffi-
cient provifion of falt on the borders of a
brackifh lake which we found in our way ;
and, two leagtes farther, I advanced before the
‘reft, to vifit a plantation which I perceived on
our left. I found that it had been plurdered
and burnt by the Cafires; for nothing re-
mained of it but fome pieces of the walls,
black with fmoke, and calcined by the flames :
a very difmal appearance in the bofom of a
defart !

An

AF Ri @pay 28o
An hour after, my advanced guard was
ftopped by the Kouga, on the banks of which
we erected our tents. dvi |
The Kouga, properly fpeaking, is only a
rivulet, but we found {carcely any water in it ;
there was only a {mall quantity in fome hols
low places, in which we caught abundance of
excellent tortoifes, though of a very {mall fize;
the largeft did not weigh above three pounds,
Before the commencement of night I ordered
an abbatis to be conftructed of the branches of
trees, to. form a defence round my cattle : and,
whilft this was executing, the women were
employed in colleGing whatever dry wood
they could find in the neighbourhood, to fup-
ply us with fuel; as it was indifpenfably necef-
fary to kindle fires in different places, left we —
- fhould be furprifed by the Caffres, or by
lions, which were now very common in thefe
cantons. We remained here till the 2oth,
when we began to be in want of provifions;
but I was fo fortunate as to kill three buffaloes
and two bubales. On the banks of the rivulet
I found fome Guinea-hens, exactly like thofe
_ of Europe. When boiled along time, they
' were excellent ; but when roafted or broiled,
they were good for nothing.- They were ap-
7 1,., I, U parently

290 TRAVELS 4iN

parently too old. I found alfo fome new f{pecies
of very pretty birds; and, among others, 2
barbet, of which I fhall give fome coloured
figures.

After this we went up the banks of the
Kouga, ftill in the fame order as we had
hitherto obferved ; but we had {carcely travele
led an hour, when my advanced guard ftop-
ping, fent to inform me that they had dif-
covered the prints of men’s feet. Struck with
terror, they imagined them to be the traces of
she Caffres, and they now faw nothing around
them but thefe favages. Having haftened to-
the fpot, I obferved that the traces feemed
very frefh; and as this difcovery began now
to become very ferious, I was fenfible that we
ought to put ourfelves in the beft ftate of
defence, without lofs of time. I therefore
ordered the whole caravan to halt; and,
whilft my people were bufily employed in
forming a fence round the oxen, and in ar-
ranging my camp, followed by my two in-
trepid chaffeurs, [fet out to reconnoitre. After
following the traces for an hour, they con-
ducted us to a place where we found the re-
mains of a fire not quite extinguifhed, and
a few mutton bones, which had been lately

\ enawed.

A ® RANG AA —
gnawed. From the fire it appeared evident
that the’ favages who had ftopped here, had
alfo pafled the night on the fame fpot; but,
on feeing the gnawed bones, I could fcarcely
allow myfelf to believe that they had been
Caffres, becaufe thefe people never breed
fheep. It was, however, poflible that they
might have procured them by plunder, or
have found them among their enemies. During
the uncertainty into which thefe refleGions had
thrown me, | refolved to advance full farther ;
until being at length tired of traverfing and
ranging the country, finding that thefe traces
led us too far from ovr route,and conducted us
to one direétly oppofite to that which we ought
to purfue, I returned to my camp. The night
following we met with little difturbance; but
the next day a moft dreadful ftorm of rain
_ obligedus to remain clofely {hut up in our tents;
_ and the day after we were under the difagree-
able neceflity of crofling fourteen times fuccef-
fively the unlucky Kouga, which every quarter
of an hour ftopped our journey, and above all
things fhook my carriages dreadfully upon the
ftones and fragments of rock which it carried
along with it in its courfe. This fatiguing in-
terruption, fo often repeated, compelled us to

U2 pafs

292 T RAV EL SA GN

‘pafs the night near a {mall torrent called Drooge
Rivier, the Dry River: for our cattle were
fo haraffed that they were not in a condition
to carry us any farther ; and the circumftances
of the moment did not permit us to make long
marches. Whenever we halted, a great deal
of time was neceffary to arrange our camp ;
to prepare food for about an hundred. animals;
to boil provifions for a ftill greater number
of people; to watch over the fafety of all
thefe individuals; to colle& wood for making
fires, and to keep them burning during the
whole night. Thefe details became very la-
borious; but they were neverthelefs indif-
penfable. |
That evening our dogs thought proper to be
ur purveyors. The whole country was filled
with Guinea-fowls, which at fun-fet perched —

in hundreds on the trees that furrounded us,

in order to pafs the night. They made a
continual and difagreeable cackling: but it .
was of fome ufe to us, for thefe fimple birds
+~ifcovered themfelves by it; and our dogs,
which heard them, began to run round and
‘to bark at the bottoms of the trees where they
were feated. ‘Thefe Guinea-fowls endeavoured
to make their efcape; but the weight of their
: bodies,

AF ECA 293
bodies, and the ‘fhortnefs of their wings, not
permitting them to fly above the trees, and be-
ing obliged on this account to run and to leap
on the ground, our dogs watched for them’
in their paflage; and, feizing them with their
teeth, foon deftroyed them. This method of
hunting procured us abundance of thefe ani-
mals, without wafting a fingle grain of powder.
Next morning I withed to purfue the fame plan;
but thefe birds, better inftru&ted by the fate
of the preceding evening, did not defcend.
One difcharge, however, of my fufee, pro-
‘duced all the effect I expected.

During the night, we heard the diftant
roaring of fome lions.

On the 23d, after a march of fome hours,
we arrived at the large and beautiful river of |
Sondag. Its channel was very full; the wea-
ther feemed to threaten rain; and the dread of
being again {topped by an inundation, made
us refolve to crofs it on rafts. Having ordered
a quantity of wood neceflary for this purpofe to
be cut down, and what might be requifite for
inclofing our cattle in the ufual manner, when
we fhould encamp, I embarked my carriages
piece by piece, with the greater part of my
effets, and the half of my people, who erected

| 4 our

2.94 TRAVEE SS VN )
our tents on the other fide, under the dire€tion ©
of Swanepoel. The cattle paffed by fwim-
ming, as they had before done on the like oc-
cafions ; and the following day I alfo crofled
the torrent with the remainder of my company
and effects. The preparation, execution, and
arrangement of all thefe matters, employed us
till the latter part of the month.
In the interval I procured feveral birds, and
I caufed feveral koedoes to be falted. But I
was in great danger of lofing my dear Kees.
The account of this accident will convey a
better idea of my fimple and uniform manner:
of pafling my time than any thing elfe I could
fay on the fubjed.
Every thing was got ready for dinner ; and
I was drefling upon a plate fome dry ‘haricots
which I had juft fried, when I heard the voice
of a bird with which | was not at all acquaint-
ed. Forgetting in a moment both my cook-
ery and my dinner, I fnatched up my fufee,
and hurried from my tent. At the end of
half an hour, I returned perfeaily fatisfied with
my expedition, and holding my bird in my
hand; but I was much furprifed, on entering
my tent, not to find a fingle bean on my table.
‘his was a trick of Kees, I had corrected him .
7 | pretty

AFRICA. 295
pretty feverely, the evening before, for robbing
me of my fupper ; and I did not imagine that
he would have fo foon forgot his punifhment,
as to be guilty of this new fault almoft imme-
diately after it. He had however difappeared ;
but as he. always waited for the return of
night, when he had committed any error, be-
fore he again made his appearance, I well
knew that he could not efcape me. It was gene
rally at the time when I was drinking tea that
he glided in, without noife, and took his fta-
tion near me, in his accuftomed place, with
an air of innocence, as if nothing had hap-
pened. That evening he did not appear; and
next morning, as no one had feen him, I be-
gan to be very uneafy, and to be apprehenfive
that he had deferted me entirely. This lofs
would have been the more dittrefling, as, be-
fides the amufement he afforded me, he was
really of great utility, and rendered me fuch
fervices that his place could not have been
fupplied by another, On the third day, how-
ever, one of my people, who had been in
fearch of water, afflured me that he had feen
him in the neighbourhood ; but that he had
hid himfelf as foon as he found that he was dif
covered. Setting out immediately in queft of

Un him,

“2.96 TRAVELSAIN -

him, I fearched all the neighbourhood with
my dogs. All of a fudden hearing a cry like
that which he ufed to fend forth when I re-
turned from hunting, and when I would not
carry him along with me, I ftopped ; and caft-
ing my eyes every where around, I at length
perceived him, half concealed, behind a large
branch in the middle of a tree. I called him
in a familiar manner, and coaxed him as much
as I could to defcend and come to me; but
as he feemed not inclined to truft to thefe
marks of my friendfhip, and of the joy which
T conceived on meeting with him, I was under
the neceflity of climbing the tree. When l
had reached the fpot where he was, he fuffered
me to lay hold of him; while fear and pleafure
were alternately painted in his eyes, and ex-
prefled by his geftures. Soon after I returned
to my camp, where he feemed to. wait for his
fate; and where I came to a determination
refpeCting him. I thought at firft that I ought
to tie him up; but by this I fhould have been
deprived of his amufing tricks. I refolved there-
fore to fhew my generofity towards him, andnot
.to treat him with feverity. A fecond correction
would not have altered his difpofition: and I]
reflected that he had perhaps more than once
: | received

AF: RUC, 297
“received it very improperly ; for his reputation,
which gave a colour of probability to every
accufation made againft him, hurt him very
. ‘much in my opinion, and rendered me unjuft,
efpecially when I was in bad humour. Seve-
ral petty thefts, which a fondnefs for dainties
caufed my Hottentots to commit, were often
laid upon him; and on this account poor Kees
was many times blamed without caufe.

The river Sondag has its fource in high |
mountains, which are almoft always covered
with fnow ; en which accaunt they are named |
Snow-Bergen, or the mountains of fnow. I
faw them on my left towards the north. This
-xiver, enlarged by various fmall ftreams which
run into it, difcharges itfelf into the fea at
the diftance of ten leagues from the place
where I then was. fig

On the 1{t of O&ober we purfued our route
-in the ufual order. After travelling feven
hours, we repofed ourfelves for a moment
“under the ruins of a habitation deferted like
the former, and no lefs difmal and melancho-
ly. At four in the afternoon we halted at a
Jake ; and it was very fortunate for us that we
had two large fires that night, as two lions
and fome hyenas paid us a vifit, which threw

our

ef oT RAAWIEDLIS SN
our cattle into great diforder. "We were ob-
-diged to pafs the whole night on our legs, Thefe
animals appeared fo ferocious, that we could
mot drive them away ‘but by repeated dif-
charges. of our fire arms.

At the break of day we faw fuch numbers of
thofe antelopes called /pring-bock, that Irefolved
to employ the whole day in hunting’ them ;
efpecially as our provifions began to fail, and
as it was often neceflary to havea freth fup-
ply. The confumption made by all my peo-
ple was fo great, that a juft idea can fcarcely
be formed of it; for by carrying a whole horde
and their animals along with me, I had added
an additional encumbrance, at which I was
fometimes frightened. We were, however,
lucky enough to kill feven of thefe antelopes.
Though this fpecies are {wift-footed, people
on horfeback may eafily come up with them,
Being generally collected into flocks, and keep-
ing as clofely together as fheep, they mutually
impede each other, which greatly retards
them in thelr courfe: one ball, well directed,
may kill two or three of them, and fometimes
more, : ‘4 :

~ Next day we made a forced march: we had
found bad water the evening before; and to
| procure

APR aT Cee | 299
procure better it was neceflary that we fhould
fall in with fome arm ofthe river Sondag. We
reached it luckily at four in the afternoon. My
oxen had fuffered fo much from the exceflive
heat, that they were unable to proceed farther ;
and | was afraid that fome of them would die,
though I had taken the precaution of relieving
them often.

On the 4th we quitted the river entirely ;
‘and proceeded that day only three leagues, as
the heat was almoft infupportable. My oxen
had not then quite recovered from the fatigue
of the evening before.

On'the sth we fet out at three in the morn-
ing; and at feven we faw another deferted
plantation. The proprietors, without doubt,
opprefied by fear, had not taken time to fe-
cure their effects from pillage. On the fight
of this abode, which was in a perfect flate,
and which exhibited no marks of fire, it ap-
peared to me thatthe inhabitants had been
terrified without any caufe, I had the curiofity
to enter the houfe, and I found that I was not
deceived in my opinion; for I obferved no de-
tangement in any of the furniture, each utenfil
being in its proper place. I permitted none
of pat people to touch any thing, of however

little

300 TRAV ELS 7 DN

little value it might be; but, as the heat was
exceffive, I took advantage of the fhade which
this building afforded us, in order that we
might repofe ourfelves a little. Towards even-
ing I prepared to fet out; and we continued
our journey for four hours.
. The day following we pafled two more de-
ferted houfes, which were in the fame flate as
thofe feen the evening before; but, as I was
unwilling to ftop, I did not vifit them. After
a march of four hours, we arrived at the river
Vogel, or bird’s river, where we halted, as our
oxen were in want of water, and had {fcarcely
any thing to eat. At noon the heavens be-
came overcaft, and the fun was entirely hid
by very large clouds; which to me was a lucky
circumftance, as it gave me an opportunity of
advancing a little farther. We hoped to reach
Agier-Bruynijes-Hoogte; but, when we came
to the bottom of thefe mountains, we met
with a pond, which obliged us to encamp, as
we very much doubted whether we -fhould
foon find another. : |
During the night the favage Hottentots bb
ferved our fires; and, as they approached to
reconnoitre us, our dogs, who perceived them,

took the alarm, and began to bark and make a
I | dreadful

A REO &: 302

dreadful noife. On this occafion part of my.
people, perfuaded that we were invefted by
Caffres (for I muft here repeat that fear made
_them imagine that they faw Caffres. every
where), propofed to leave the camp, and to
fhelter themfelves in the bufhes; as if we
fhould have been in greater fecurity, when,
feparately concealed in a wretched coppice,
than when colleGted in a body, well armed:
and refolute. Klaas and I were quite furious.
The venerable Swanepoel joined us, with a
view of encouraging thefe daftardiy fouls;
and he fwore that he would ftand by me
whatever might be the event, and that he
would {pend the laft drop of his blood in my
defence. In the midft of this converfation,
and the timid irrefolution of the reft of my
company, | heard a voice begging, in broken.
Dutch, that I would recal my dogs, which I.
immediately did. When I was fully affured
that thefe people were only Hottentots, I fuf-
fered them to approach ; upon which they
made their appearance, to the number of fif-

teen men, with feveral women and children.
They had fet out to remove themfelves from
the flames of war; and I was informed by
them that when I pafled the mountain I
| fhould

302 TRAWE ES0 AN
fhould ftill find feveral deferted habitations,
They told me alfo that the proprietors of thefe
different houfes had colleted themfelves into
one body, to oppofe the enemy; but that
they had formed a refolution of abandoning
their country and poffeffions entirely, with a
view of getting nearer to the Dutch fettle-
ments; and that the Caffres, who were Tftill
in the field, had fworn not to leave one of
them remaining.

I pafled the night in converfation of this
nature ; and I learned from thefe people every
thing that I withed to know: but I was
the lefs inclined to confider the Caffres as
ferocious animals thirfting after blood, who
fpared neither fex, age, nor their neighbours,
as I was too well acquainted with the planters
to confide in their veracity, or to afcribe to
them a part of thofe horrid cruelties of which
they always affected to complain.

But why fhould a people fo mild as the
Hottentots, and who lead a life both peaceable
and precarious, be concerned in thefe horrid
wars, had they not fufficient caufe for fhew-
ing their refentment and revenge? The
Caffres naturally are not a mifchievous peo-~

ple. They live, like the other favages of this
| part

| AFR IC 303
part of Africa, on the milk with which they
are fupplied by their cattle ; and clothe them-
felves with the {kins of animals. Like the
reft, they are indolent by nature, and warlike
by neceflity ; but they are not an odious’ na-
tion, whofe name is calculated to infpire terror,
As I was very defirous of being thoroughly in-
formed refpecting the motives and rife of thefe
atrocious wars, which thus difturbed the tran-
quillity of the moft beautiful parts of Africa,
thefe honeft people, who had trufted to me
with fo much confidence, unbofomed them-
felves in the like manner without any referve.
They informed me, indeed, that the opprefiion
and cruelty of the planters were the only
caufe of the war, and that juflice was on the
fide of the Caffies : they told me alfo that the
~Bofhomens, a kind of vagabond deferters who
belong to no nation, and who live only by
rapine, took advantage of that moment of dif-
order to. pillage without diftinGion the Caf-
. fres, the Hottentots, and the planters; that
nothing but the tyrannical behaviour of thefe
wretches could have made the Caffres include
in the general profcription all the Hottentots,
whom they confidered as {pies attached to the
whites, and whom the latter employed to lay
{nares

304 TRAY Efe aN
{nares for them with more dexterity. This
laft circumftance was not void of foundation;
but it could by no means be applied to the
more remote hordes. ‘Thus were the inno-
cent involved in the common fate of the
guilty. But how was it poflible for favages to
make a diftinGtion which even civilized nations
are not accuftomed to do? They told me, be-
fides, that the Caffres had procured fome fire
arms, which they found in thofe plundered
houfes, or had taken by furprife from the
Hottentots belonging to the colonies. :
I was, in fhort, informed in the moft mi-
nute manner of every thing that had paffed, of
the attacks made, and the battles fought, in
which, though they had committed horrid
ravages, the Caffres had always been beat,
which to me did not appear furprifing., Their
ailagay, their moft deftruGiive weapon, which
they handle with great dexterity, cannot ftand
in competition with our fire arms, employed
by chafleurs who feldom mifs their aim. What
I had learned interefted me very much, for
the {malleft circumftance could not be indif-
ferent to me. I found myfelf engaged, on my
own account, in the events and chances of this
war; fince I was actually, as one may fay, on
the

——— aes Se

AP RTOs 406

the field of battle ; and was approaching to-

wards that moment, when wounded to the foul
by the diftrefling {peétacle which I had con-
tinually before my eyes, and inflamed with the
moft ardent defire of ferving thofe unfortunate
wretches, with whom I was not acquainted—
whom I had never feen, nor was perhaps ever
to fee; but whofe difmal fituation excited my
compaflion—I waspreparing, if all thefe people
would have followed me, to traverfe fifty
leagues of Caffraria, at the rifque of every
thing that might happen ; and to re-eftablith
peace for ever in that unhappy country. I
was not however feconded in my views by a
fingle perfon. Heaven itfelf, in my opinion;

- could not have freed thofe who followed me

from their terror: but I can more juftly cover

_ withopprobrium thofe daftardly Hottentots of

the colonies whom I vifited two days after,
for the fhameful manner in which their chief
refufed to affift me in an expedition which
would have undoubtedly fucceeded, and done
the greateft honour to humanity.

A freth misfortune, which had a little before
taken place in thefe unhappy countries, added
confiderably to my courage, and heated my
imagination. I was told that, about fix weeks

Vou. I. x prior

306 TRAVEL® \IN

prior to that period, an Englith veffel had
been fhipwrecked on the coaft; that being
driven on fhore, a part of the crew had fallen
into the hands of the Caffres, who had put
them all to death, except a few women, whom
they had cruelly referved ; and that all thofe
who had efcaped led a wandering life on the
coaft, or in the forefts, where they muft foon
perifh in mifery. Among thefe unfortunate
people, there were faid to be feveral French
officers, prifoners of war, who had been put
on board in order to return to Europe.

This diftrefling intelligence gave me great
uneafinefs; and,after all the information which
thefe people could communicate, I judged that,
by proceeding fifty leagues to the eaftward of’
the fpot where I was, I fhould arrive at the
veflel. I therefore formed a thoufand proje@s
in my mind, and invented a thoufand dif-
ferent {chemes for aflifting thefe unfortunate
people, whofe fituation was fo deplorable:
but ail my Hottentots revolted againft my
propofal; and neither prayers nor threats
could have any influence over them. The
recital of this adventure hdd made very dif-
ferent impreffions on them. A fudden ru-
mmour was {pread throughout my whole camp;

and

AF REC AR - 307
and had I not, feconded by two of three of
my brave -friends, ftruck a terror into thefe ©
wretches by my geftures and looks, I fhould
have infallibly fallen a victim to their fedition.
One of them I greatly terrified by clapping a
piftol to his head ; but all my efforts were of
no avail. The horde who followed me, with-_
out any preamble, told me that they were
free; that they no longer confidered me as-
their chief; and that they would inftantly
return, with the fifteen Hottentots who had
lately arrived. Even my own people, with a
bold air, fignified that they were not difpofed
to be cut to pieces by thoufands of Caffres,
unanimouily declaring, with loud cries, that they
would not follow me; and that they would,
without delay, fet out for the Dutch fettle-
ments. I however kept firm to my purpofe,
and oppofed them to the very laft; but nei-
ther my reprefentations, nor the entreaties of ..
Klaas, produced any elie, except on two of
them, who at length confented to expofe

_ themfelves with me. Old Swanepoel was one

of them: but what could four people have
done alone? I in vain remonftrated with thefe
favages on the ingratitude with which they
tepaid my condefcenfion, in fuffering them

A 2 to

308 TRAVELS IN

to attend me, and on their fo foon forgetting
the care, provifions, and protection, I had af-
forded them. In vain did I tell them that I |
confidered them all as cowards, traitors, and
more deteftable enemies than the Caffres: I
only redoubled their fear, and infpired them
with hatred againft myfelf. I could read in
all their countenances that terror had got en-
tire poffeffion of their hearts. On this account
I refolved to fay nothing farther ; and on the
approach of night, after having ordered watch
to be kept with the utmoft attention, I fhut
myfelf up in my tent. Being informed at
break of day that thefe ftrangers were pre-
paring to depart, with their wives, children,
cattle, and all their effects, I forbade any one
to take leave of them; and, without lofs of
time, gave orders for having every thing ready,
that I alfo might fet out and purfue my jour-
ney. In four hours we crofied the mountain
Agter-Bruyntjes-Hoogte ; and, being refrefhed
by a fhower of rain which came feafonably to
our relief, at the end of four hours we en-
camped, in order to pafs the night. As we —
marched along we obferved fome more de-
ferted habitations, the proprietors of which
vere doubtlefs among the number of the

confe- |

AFRICA 309

confederates. The foil in this place appeared
to be, in general, good; the mountains were
covered with large beautiful trees; and the
plains, interfperfed with the msmofa-nilotica,
abounded with antelopes and gnous: the
latter, though excellent eating, are however
inferior to the other antelopes.

By the information I had received from the
fifteen Hottentots who had incited the horde to
revolt, and deprived me of their afliftance, I
reckoned that I could not be far diftant from the
place where all thefe Hottentots of the colonies
were aflembled. I continually flattered myfelf
with the hopes of finding among them fome
well-difpofed people, who approving of my plan
of pacification with the Cafires, and the hopes
of affifting the unhappy fufferers who had been
fhipwrecked, would heartily join me, and fe~
cond my endeavours to afford them relief. The
idea of thefe miferable people haunted me every
where ; and I could not help reflecting on the
melancholy fituation of the poor women, con-
demned to drag out their exiftence amidft the
torment and horror of defpair. Thefe thoughts
were ever prefent to my mind, and attached
me more and more to my project; for the
defire of reftoring them to liberty, and of

3 bringing

310 TRAVERS ae
bringing them back with me, more and more
fhut my eyes againft any obflacle that might
occur; and fuffered me to fee only the pofli-
bility of fuccels: I was therefore impatient
to arrive at this horde of Hottentots.

Next morning, after a march of three hours,
undertaken at the break of day, I at length. dif-
covered the habitation 1 fo much withed for,
As foon as thefe people perceived me, though
at a great diftance, I faw them all aflemble, and
form themfelves into a group, before the houfe;
while their motions, confulion, and the atten-
tion with which they all at the fame inftant
‘turned their eyes towards me, fufficiently
fhewed that my appearance confiderably
alarmed them, and that my convoy, above
all, gave them great uneafinefs. I however
advanced, and, accofting them with politenefs,
made mylelf known, and told them my name.
I pretended that I was travelling under the
protection of the Dutch government, to which
I was obliged to give an account of my dif-
coveries. This conclufion of my difcourfe,
which was very concife, feemed to imprefsthem
with great awe; they then received me with
every demonftration of joy, and teftified with

how much pleafure they faw me. ‘They con-
fefled

A F ROD CA, 311

feffed that my beard had frightened them a little
(it had then eleven months growth); that they
did not know what to think of my arms, my
waggon, and my numerous train; that they
had often heard mention made of me; and that
an hundred circumftances had been related to
them, in which I had been in danger of lofing
my life; but that they had been at laft affured
that I had found a veffcl at anchor in the bay .
of Blettemberg, which had conveyed me to the
ifle of Bourbon; and that on this account,
when they faw me arrive, they had at firft
imagined that I was another perfon. Aftera
hundred queftions, to which they gave me
{earcely time to return an anfwer, | mentioned
the motives that had induced me to pay them
a vifit; and the refolution I had taken of
penetrating to the extremity of Caffraria, I
could not help telling them how much I was
furprifed that they had not before attempted
to fave the unhappy Europeans, of whofe fate
they were not ignorant; that I hoped to find
amongft them men willing and ready to ac-
company me to the coaft where their veffel
had been loft; that the Dutch government

would, without doubt, reward in a noble man-
mer the authors of fuch a glorious enterprife ;

x4 and,

R12 TRAVELS “IN

and, to incite them the more, I did not fail to
add, that amonett the cargo of the veffel, which
was ftill partly on the coaft, each of them
might eafily procure a thoufand comforts for
the remainder of their lives. This argument
feemed to have fome effect upon them for
the moment; but I entertained very few
_ hopes; though they eagerly replied that, if
things were as I had reprefented them, it was
very proper to go to the affiftance of thefe un-
fortunate people ; who, as they faid, were their
brothers, and their fellow-creatures.

The moift cunning, as being the moft timid
of the whole company, confidering my {peech
only in that view in which his intereft was
concerned, added for the reft, that it was
more than probable that the Caffres had al-
ready plundered the veflel, and carried away
the beft part of the cargo; that they fhould
find perhaps, nothing at all, or, if any thing,
not fo much as would indemnify them for
the rifques and expences of fuch a journey ;
and that, during their abfence, their wives,
and their children, would be left expofed to
the danger of being maflacred by the Caffres,

From this difcourfe I was fully convinced
that nothing could tempt them to undertake

this

AFRICA. 413

this expedition. It appeared that they could
not carry away a great number of cattle from
their enemies; for, after fharing twenty thou-
fand fince the commencement of holtilities,
thefe favages could not have many remaining,
as they had been obliged, in order to preferve
thofe which had efcaped pillage, to carry them
a great way into the interior parts of the
country. |

I ufed every argument in my power to over-
come the reafoning of this man; and I often
told him that he forgot above all the miferable
people for whom I had come to folicit affift-
ance: but he had corrupted his companions,
and, after that, not one of them fhewed the
leaft inclination to fecond me. As there was
no profit in view, I could no longer depend
on their afiiftance.

As it was in vain to attempt any farther to
move them, I had recourfe to imprecations. I
threatened them with all the vengeance of
government; I wifhed that {warms of Caffres
might furround their habitations ; and, fearing
that their example might influence my own
people, among whom I found fome obedience
and attachment, I immediately fet out to
purfue my journey.

IT had

314 TRAVELS og N

I had remarked that they were reinforced by
a pretty numerous company of Meiflizo Hot-
tentots, who are courageous and enterprifing,
and approach nearer to the whites than the
Hottentots. As they had always been the firft
to march againft the Caffres, and to fignalize
themfelves in every rencounter, I refolved to
leave three of my people behind me, with or-
ders to infinuate themfelves among thefe Hot-
tentots; and to engage fome of them to follow
me; efpecially thofe who were acquainted with
the country, and who underftood the language
of the inhabitants. Before I fuffered them to
depart, I inftruéted them in what manner to
proceed; and being defirous of approaching
the river K/en-Vis, I appointed them to meet
me at that place. In three hours time I ar-
rived at this river; and, having crofled it, I
ordered my caravan to halt, as it was necef-
fary to fleep here, in order to wait’ for the
return of my people, and to hear how they
had fucceeded in their negotiation. Having
obferved the prints of fome lions feet, I took
as many precautions not to be furprifed by
thefe animals as I had taken againft the Caf-
fres. I fhould not have been very uneafly
refpeCting the latter, had it been poflible for
me¢

AF RIGA. 315

‘me to find any means of letting them know

ethat I was not among the number of their
~ perfecutors; and that I neither belonged to
their nation, nor entertained the fame fenti-
ments: but they might have fallen fuddenly
on my camp, and caufed great devaftation,
before we had explained ourfelves to each
other. This confideration induced me to choofe
for this time, contrary to my ufual cuftom,
an elevated {pot for my camp; from which I
might have an extenfive profpedt every where
around. When I had fixed upon one, I or-
dered my tent to be ereCted ; my carriages and
oxen to be properly difpofed ; and a few huts,
merely for the purpofe of making a fhew, to
be conftructed at the diftance of a few paces.
I then pitched my military tent within a oun-
fhot of my camp, and covered it with branches
of trees, that it might not be perceived; as I
intended to pafs the night in it, along with my
people: by this manceuvre I deceived the
enemy ; for had they made their appearance,
with a view of furprifing me in my camp,
they would undoubtedly have been difap-
pointed, to their own ruin. I fhould then
have had time to fail upon them, and to
furprife them in my turn.

‘ We

316. TRAVELS WyIN

We did not pafs the night in tranquillity,
for our dogs difturbed us fo much that we en-
joyed no fleep at all.

At the break of day, I perceived at a
diftance, three of my. Hottentots advancing
towards us, accompanied by three ftrangers :
one of them, named Hans, the fon of a Hotten-
tot woman by a white man, had lived almoft
his whole life among the Caffres, and {poke
their language very fluently. By giving him
a few glafles of brandy, which I had kept in
referve, I foon gained his confidence; and I
made him tell me every thing that I wifhed
to know, refpecting the ftate of affairs at that
time. What [learned confirmed me in my
opinion, that the Caffres in general are a
harmlefs and peaceful people; but he affured ©
me that, being continually opprefled, plun-
dered, and malilacred by the whites, they had
found themfelves reduced to the neceflity of
taking up arms in their own defence ; adding,
that the planters every where gave out, that
thefe people were barbarous and fanguinary,
in order to juftify their robberies, and the
cruelty which they daily exercifed againit
them, and which they endeavoured to make
appear as reprifals; that, under pretence of

their

A F- Ro Cm, B57
their cattle being carried away, they had, with-
out regard to age or fex, exterminated whole
hordes of Caffres, plundered them of their
oxen, and ravaged their lands; that this me-
thod of procuring live ftock appearing to be
much eafier than to rear them themfelves, they
had employed it with fo much indifcretion for
more than a year, that they had fhared above
twenty thoufand among them; and that they
had maflacred without mercy all thofe who
had attempted to defend them. Hans told
me that he had been witnefs to a tranfaction,
which I fhall give here exactly as he related
it.

A band of planters having deftroyed a Caffre
village, a young child about twelve years of
age efcaped, and concealed itfelf in a hole,
where it was unfortunately difcovered by a man
belonging to a detachment of planters. This
man wifhing to make a flave of it, carried it
away with him; but the commander taking a
fancy to it, infifted upon its being put into his
hands. The perfon who found it obftinately
refufed to give it up: both fides grew warm;
and the commander, inflamed with anger, and
running up in a furious manner to the inno-
cent victim, cried out to his adverfary, “‘ HI

I ‘ cannot

318. TRAVELS’ Son

*¢ cannot have the child, it fhall not be thine ‘
° upon which difcharging his fufee againft its

“* breaft, it dropped down dead on the fpot.”
I learned alfo, that, in order to amufe them-
felves, thefe wretches had often placed their pri-
foners at a certain diftance, and tried who was
moft expert with their fufees in hitting them.
I fhould never have done were I to relate all
the horrid cruelties which they daily commit
upon thofe unhappy favages who are under
their protection; but private confiderations,
and other very powerful motives, oblige me to
be filent. Befides, what avails the voice of one
feeling individual, againft defpotifm and force?
I have faid enough to thew the character of
the planters of this part of Africa, whom the
inactivity of government fuffers to go on in
their exceffes, and is even afraid of punifhing.
In this place are committed all the cruelties
that hell can invent. In a republican ftate,
diftinguifhed more than any other by the fim-
plicity of its manners, and a {fpirit of philan-
thropy, the moft villanous iniquity remains
unpunithed ; becaufe people do not deign to
look beyond thofe obje&s which furround
them. If the governor receives. informa-
tion fometimes, refpeCting thefe horrid abufes,
6 the

AFRICA. 319

the diftance, the time neceflary to convey intel-
ligence to him, and other citcumftances, per-
haps, which it may be prudent not to inquire
into, difguife it fo much when it reaches the
town, that it fcarcely furnithes fubject for the

converfation of the day. |
A planter arrives from the diftance of an
hundred leagues; he complains to the governor
that the Caffres have carried away all his cattle; -
and he requefts a commando, that is to fay,
permiflion to goand recover his property with
the affifiance of his neighbours. The governor
fufpeCting no deceit, or pretending not to dif
cover any, takes every thing in the fame light
as it is reprefented to him, and fees nothing but
juftice in the demand of an impoltor: a pre-
vious enquiry would require too much.time, ©
befides being laborious and embarraffing. To
grant permiflion is eafy; it cofts little, and is
only afingle word. ‘This fatal word is there-
fore written, and it becomes the fentence of
death paffed againft thoufands of favages, who
have neither the fame refources nor the fame
means of defence. The monfter who thus de-
‘ceives the credulity of the governor, returns
fatisfied amidft the accomplices of his rapacity,
and gives to his conwmando whatever extent he
may

320 TRAV E1LGe 4 WN

may find ufeful to his intereft: a new maffa-
cre then takes place, which is only a prelude
to more carnage; for if the Caffres have the
audacity to recover, by force or by ftratagem,
the cattle taken from them in confequence of
this order, furreptitioufly obtained from the
governor, and which continues in force till
there are no more victims, thefe planters
fatiate their vengeance by the moft, horrid

flaughter. ;
Thus did this war, or rather this pillaging,
continue all the time that I refided in Africa.
Neither commercial fpeculations nor a fond-
nefs for any fervice conducted me to the Cape.
The natural impulfe of my difpofition, and a
defire of acquiring new knowledge, made me
‘dire€t my courfe to that part of the world:
J arrived there perfectly free, and with a mind
not in the leaft biafled by prejudice. I made
myfelf better acquainted with the interior
parts of the country, and the unknown natives
by whom it is inhabited, than with any of the
colonies belonging to the Cape, or even the
Cape itfelf, which I did not know, but at the
different periods of my return. I had no per-
fonal intereft in view to make me be fufpeGed
of partiality; but I have every where feen
very

AF RING 321
very powerful reafons for obferving, that the
forefeeing eye of policy has been opened too late
on thofé poffeffions which are at a diftance,
and which every day become moxe remote
from the metropolis. I have feen that the
authority of a governor, however great it may
be, does not extend far enough to check at
their fource thofe dreadful irregularities, which
are continued, and ftill increafing, in the inte-
rior parts of the country., Should it ever hap-
pen that the Caffres, inceffantly harafled, unite
in fupport of the common caufe with the
neighbouring nations, who begin alfo to com-

_ plain of the planters, their union would cer-

tainly occafion the greateft diforder ; and who
knows what might be the confequence of fuch
a confederation, formed for the purpofe of de-
fending inalienable rights, and of avenging
ancient injuries? There are many methods by
which government might prevent thefe misfor-
tunes; and it is full time that they fhouldbeem-
ployed, for the danger increafes by delay. There
have been inftances of the governor, when
informed of fome cruelties exercifed againtt
the favages, fummoning in vain the perfon
who was the author of them to come to the
Cape, and give an account of his conduct. The

VoL. I, Yy criminal,

422 TRAVELS IN

criminal has not fo much as deigned to return
any anfwer to the order fent to him ; he has
continued to harafs and plunder in the fame
manner as before: and his difobedience has
been attended with no bad confequences to
him ; nay it has been even foon forgotten.
One day, while difcourfing with fome of the
planters on thefe abufes, feveral of them told
me that they had more than once received
fuch orders from the governor, without ever
paying the leaft attention to them. Growing
a little warm in the caufe, I exprefled my
aftonifhment that in fuch circumftances the
governor did not fend a detachment to enforce
obedience to his orders; and, in cafe of a re-
fufal, to feize upon the culprit, and to conduct
him to town under a ftrong guard. ‘*Are you
*¢ well aware,” faid they, “* what would be the
** refult of fuch an attempt? Aflembling all
«*in an. inftant, we would maflacre the half
“of the foldiers, falt their flefh, and fend
“it back by thofe we might fpare; with
‘“‘ threats of doing the fame thing to thofe
“* who fhould be bold enough to appear among
“ us afterwards.” Such was their anfwer; to
which I thought it would be altogether ufe-
lefs to offer any reply. To deal with people
6

of

AF RIC Age, 323

‘of this character, muft bea work of great dif-
ficulty ; and no {mall fhare of addrefs will be

neceflary to reduce them to obedience. Ido |

not confider it as impoflible, that, fhaking off

the yoke, they may fome day diate laws to -

the head of the colony ; and that day will be
when a man of abilities, gaining the minds and
confidence of the multitude, fhall prefent to
them, under feducing colours, a view of inde-
pendence and liberty. They are already too
fenfible of the facility with which fuch an en-
_terprife may be undertaken; and of the advan-
tages that will refult from its fuccefs. Nothing
will be neceflary but to put them in mind
that they are about ten thoufand in number,
all crafty and refolute, and all accuftomed to
hunting ; that every fhot they may fire will
do execution; that without difficulty, and
without danger, they may beat and deftroy
any forces with which the governor may
oppofe them; that they will enjoy abund-
ance the moment they ceafe to acknowledge
the irkfome and often tyrannical laws of go-
vernment, which are contrary to every kind

of private profperity; that placed in a delightful

climate, the poffeffors of the fineft fields and
the moft beautiful woods in the country,
y2 abundantly

&

tye.

324 TRAVELS {UN
abundantly ftocked with game of all kinds,
they may, by adding to all thefe advantages
thofe of cultivating the earth, and breeding
flocks, procure to themfelves, from the firft
hand, every refource arifing from barter ; and
that, by means of the harbours and roads
which are to be found in great plenty on the
coafts of their territories, it is in their power
to bring the induftry of other nations amongtt
them, ‘to extend their population, to increafe
their riches, and to have every convenience
that an extenfive foreign trade can fupply.
The government at the Cape are already
fully fenfible of the importance of thefe re-
fietions; and this perhaps is one of the
jufteft caufes of their apparent fupinenedfs
with refpect to the planters. - They know the
genius and character of thefe robuft people,
almoft all educated in the midft of the woods;
and they were more cautious in their conduct
towards them during my refidence at the Cape,
becaufe they thought the fate of the whole
town depended upon their powerful affiftance,
had the Englith in the war of 1781 attempt-
ed to make a defcent there, as they expected.
The following anecdote will fhew how far.
they were to be depended on:—An alarm
| having +

APRS C® 325

having been fpread, though without any foun-
dation, in lefs than twenty-four hours, from
a thoufand to twelve hundred of them made
their appearance in a body; and thefe would
have been followed by all the reft, had not an
order been iflued to ftop them.

Thofe however would be in a great error,
who from what I have faid fhould imagine that
all thefe planters are fo many Ceefars. This is
far from being the cafe; and indeed fuch an
idea would ill agree with the accounts I have
before given when fpeaking of their war with
the Caffres, and of their poffeffions every
where abandoned and deferted. Born for the
moft part among rocks, a favage and ruftic
~ education has made them like fo many giants
with refpe&t to ftrength; but, though accuf-
tomed from their earlieft infancy to watch and
furprife the monftrous animals of Africa, they
are abfolutely not fit but for a firft attack, or
to fucceed in an ambufcade. They would not
{ftand in the open field, nor would they ever |
return to 2 fecond charge. They are not ac-
_ quainted with that courage which is infpired
by a fenfe of honour, but with <hat only
which arifes from a conf{cioufmels of one’s

¥ 3 ftrength

326 TRAVELS MN

ftrength or dexterity ; and if the reader calls
to mind my adventure with them in the Bay
— of Saldanha, it may be eafily feen that it tends
ftrongly to corroborate what I have here ad-
vanced. The fame thing cannot be faid of
the greater part of the women. Courageous
with reflection, their deliberate coolnefs knows
neither obftacles nor fear; being equally fkil-
ful as their hufbands in managing their horfes,
and in the ufe of fire arms, they are much
more indefatigable, and never retreat on the
appearance of danger: they are real Amazons.
I was acquainted with a widow who ma-
naged her own plantation; and when the
wild beafts came to alarm her flocks, fhe
mounted her horfe, followed them in clofe
purfuit, and never left them till fhe had either
deftroyed them, or obliged them to quit her
poffeffions. 7
In one of my excurfions two years after to
the great Nimiqua Land, I faw upon a very
folitary plantation a young girl of twenty,
who always accompanied her father on horfe-
back, when he took the field, at the head of
his pecgle, to repel the Bofhmen who came |
to difturb his repofe. In defiance of their |
poifoned |

AFR IC A. 327
poifoned arrows, fhe would purfue them with
fury, overtake them in their courfe, and fire
upon them without mercy. .

The annals of the Cape make mention of a
great number of women who havediftinguifhed
themfelves by acts of intrepidity that might do
honour to the moft refolute of the other fex.

The tragical fate of a widow, who lived up-
on a very remote plantation with her two fons,
the oldeft of whom was not above eighteen
years of age, ftill afforded a fubje& for conver-
{ation at the Cape, when I arrived there. One
obfcure night fhe and all her family being
awakened by the kicking and bellowing of her
oxen and cows, which were in an enclofure
not far diftant, every body flew to arms, and
haftened towards the place from whichthe noife
proceeded. When they reached the fpot, they
found a lion, which, having got over the pales,
was making dreadful devaftation among the
cattle; and no refource was left but to enter
the enclofure, to inveft the ferocious animal,
and to kill him. None of the flaves or Hot-
tentots of this woman had however fufficient
courage to try this expedient; and even her
two fons would not venture to prefent them-
felves before the ferocious beaft. In this di-

Y4 lemma

328 TRAVEL S* AWN |
lemma the intrepid widow entered alone,
armed with a fufee; and penetrating to the
lion, which on account of the darknefs was
fcarcely perceptible, fhe difcharged her piece:
but unluckily the animal being only wounded,
darted upon her with the utmoft fury, and
threw her down. On hearing the cries of their
poor mother, the two children haftened to her
relief; and having become defperate at this
horrid fight, while the formidable lion was
engaged with his prey, they fell upon him, and
ftrangled him, though too late, on the mangled
corpfe of their mother. Befides feveral deep
wounds which fhe had received in her throat,
and feveral parts of her body, the lion had
torn off one of her hands above the wrift, and
devoured it. Every poffible affiftance was
immediately given her; but fhe expired that
evening in great agony, amidift the unavailing
lamentations of her children and flaves aflem-

bled around her. |
I have already faid that Hans gave me every
information that I required refpeCting Caffraria.
He told me that the territories in which I then
was belonged to a powerful prince, who re-
fided at the diftance of thirty leagues from us,
more towards the north, and that he was named
7 | king

AFRICA 329

kine Faroo. He advifed me to penetrate as
far as the place of his abode; afluring me that
I had nothing to fear, and no danger to run:
on the contrary, he told me that both the
prince and his fubje€ts would receive me with
great pleafure; in hopes that, on my return to
the Cape, a relation of what I had feen of
their manners, their character, and their way
of life, would efface thofe unfavourable ideas
every where formed of them, from the accounts
of the planters, whom they detefted ; and that
perhaps they would then be fuffered to enjoy
tranquillity, the only favour which they re-
quefted from the white people.

On the firft view, this reafoning was plaufi-
ble and feducing ; and I was fully fenfible of
all the advantages that might arife to me from
the execution of fuch a project. I fuffered
myfelf, indeed, to be almoft perfuaded; but,
on the other hand, if through imprudence, or
excefs of confidence, I fhould lofe the fruits —
of all my travels, or if I fhould happen to be
maflacred, this ftep would be confidered as a
mafterpiece of folly and extravagance. I well
knew the fickle and unfteady difpofition of the
offspring of the whites and the Hottentots ;
and IJ reflected, for the firft time, on what this

man

436 TRAVELS JN

man might be capable of doing. The bribe of
a glafs of brandy might make him a traitor:
he was a friend to the Caffres; had paffed
part of his time amongft them; and, befides
this, he had come from a retreat which I
had every reafon to fufpe&t, and was there
perhaps only to watch the motions of the
planters, and to betray them. Might it not
be poffible that his intention was to facrifice
me, that he might fhare my effects with the
Caffres; and to acquire fome merit among
them, by leading me into a fnare?

Having weighed thefe confiderations for a
long time, agitated by a thoufand contrary
ideas, and incapable of forming any refolution
myfelf, I fuddenly fixed upon an eafier and
much more prudent plan. By thefe means I
gained a little more time to indulge in new
reflections, and to acquire better information,
without expofing either my perfon or my for-
tune. Irefolved to fend a deputation to king
Faroo; and, on the firft overture made to
Hans, he accepted this commiffion without
the leaft hefitation. Though his conduct upon
this occafion feemed to prefage well, I was
however determined to take every precaution.

This young meftizo promifed ta engage two
| or

AFRICA. eae

or three of his friends to undertake the jour-
ney along with him; and to thefe I added
two of my moft faithful Hottentots, Adams
and Slanger, who were to give an account to
the king of every thing I had done for eleven
months before, from the time that I quitted
the Cape. In order that he might be enabled
to judge that curiofity alone had conduéted
me to his territories, I charged my meffengers
to tell him that, being born in another world,
and above all a ftranger in Africa, I was in no
manner either a friend to the planters who
were carrying on war againft him, or an
accomplice in their defigns; that I did not
even live amongft them; that I highly dif-
approved of their condu&; and, in a word,
that he might reft affured that, as long as I
remained in his country, he would have no
occafion to be uneafy at my conduét or'mo-
tions, as they tended to one harmlefs end,
that of procuring fuch objects as related to
my tafte and ftudies ; and that, far from car-
rying ravage and terror into his pofieffions, I
would on the contrary embrace every oppor-
tunity of being ufeful to his fubjects and to
himfelf, as I had been to feveral Hottentot
hordes, who neither fufpe@&ed my fincerity,

nor

332 TRAVELS IN

nor refufed my affiftance: I added, that the go-
vernment at the Cape, to whom I would give
a faithful account of every thing I had feen,
would lofe no time to reftore tranquillity in
his territories, and to ré-eftablifh that harmony
which had fubfifted between him and the plan-
ters. Having inftructed my deputies in this
manner, particularly thofe belonging to my
camp, to whom I enjoined the greateft fecrecy
re{fpeéting certain particulars which J entrufted
to them alone (fuch, for example, as the ex-
prefs orders of bringing fome Caffres along
with them, that I might be able to judge
what degree of confidence they repofed in
me, and to fee how far I ought to grant
them mine), I gave them a few prefents for
the prince, and difmifled them. Having pro-
mifed to return foon to Koks-Kraal, where I
was to wait for them, each of them made
fuch provifion as he thought neceflary, and
then they departed.

I myfelf fet out in the morning; and, afte a
march of three hours, we found ourfelves on
the banks of the Groot-Vis-Rivier, where the
heat was exceffive. Though the earth, covered
all over with large round pebbles, rendered
the way exceedingly laborious for the oxen,

we

AFRICA, 333

we proceeded along the banks of the river;
but, overcome by fatigue, we were forced to
halt, at the diftance of three hundred paces
from its current: it was then only four in the
afternoon. Whilft we were making the ufual
preparations to enable us to pafs the night in
tranquillity, 1 walked towards the banks of
the river; not far from which I perceived the
remains of a kraal belonging to the Caffres.
Curiofity having induced me to go up to it,
I found feveral huts perfectly entire, and
others wholly deftroyed: but I beheld a more
difmal fpectacle in fome human bones which
lay {cattered here and there. From their ap-
parent age, I concluded that they were the relics
of thofe unfortunate wretches whom the plan-
ters had made the firft victims of their revenge;
and that they. had been left there fince the
commencement of this unjuft war.

We paffed the night of the roth without
any interruption. Some hyznas, indeed, paid
us a vifit; but being accuftomed to fuch guefis,
we were under very little uneafinefs. In the
morning, my Hottentots, on their return from
procuring water, informed me that they had
feen feveral frefh traces of koedoes* and hip-

* The antilope oryx of Pallas. T. |
popotami.

334 TRAVELS APN.

popotami. As our ftock of provifion was nearly
exhaufted, and the weather favourable, I re-
folved to {pend this day in hunting.

My people having difperfed themfelves on
the banks of the river, in order that they might
difcover the precife {pot which thefe hippopo-
tami haunted, I myfelf went to the other fide,
in hopes of finding fome koedoes or other
game. I however faw only fome ftraggling
antelopes, and a few flocks of oftriches. {Being
on foot, and finding that I could by no means
approach them, I began to fear that the whole
day would be fpent in contemplation and
courfing ; but, after having traverfed a great
deal of ground, I fuddenly obferved, ina plain
which was covered with long grafs and a few
fhrubs, feven koedoes, which very luckily did
not perceive me. Followed by a man who
attended me, I approached with great pre-
caution; and, when we were within two
hundred paces of them, I ordered him.to fire
firft; for, as I was certain that I could over-
take thefe animals by running, I withed to
referve my fhot till the moft dubious moment.
As foon as he had fired, they all betook them-
felves to flight, as I expected ; but very luckily
as they pafled me, at the diftance of about

thirty

AFRICA. 335
thirty paces, I killed the only male which
was in the flock. My Hottentot maintained
that this was the animal he had fired at; but
I convinced him of his miftake, for we found
only one wound and one ball in it. Having
covered it with a few branches, and tied
my handkerchief to the end of a pole, which
I fixed in the ground, to frighten away fero-
cious animals, we fet out in purfuit of the reft
of the koedoes; becaufe, the male being killed»
I was certain that the females would not go
far. We obferved fome traces of blood, which
plainly fhewed that one of them had been
wounded: and indeed, at the diftance of
four hundred paces, we found one juft ex-
piing. My Hottentot, whom I had reproached
for fhooting badly, was highly flattered by
this event; but he had taken aim at the male,
and it was by chance that he hit the female.
Having fkinned it, and taken out its bowels, we
thought we might then both of us be able,as the
diftance was not very great, to convey it to the
{pot where we had left the male. Being con-
fiderably fatigued by this labour, and our ap-
petite beginning to he whetted, we kindled a
few fticks, and broiled the liver, Ido not
know whether it was owing to our hunger,

or

336 TRAVELS! 4N
or to the delicacy of the food, but I remember
that, though we had neither falt nor bread *, I
could fcarcely be fatisfied with it; and that this
was one of the moft delicious repafts I ever
made in my life: after this we tied the four
feet of the animal together, and with a pole
carried it upon our fhoulders to the other
which we had killed. I then difpatched my
Hottentot to bring me two horfes, with a few
of his companions, and we foon conveyed the
game to our camp. Some inftantly filled the
kettles with it, while others broiled fteaks of
it upon the hot coals; and, in lefs than two
hours, two thirds of the flefh difappeared.
The Hottentots are gluttonous as long as
there is abundance of provifions; but, in times
of fcarcity, they can be contented with a very
little. In this refpe& I may compare them to
hyzenas, or other carnivorous animals, which
devour all their prey in an inftant, without
thinking on thefuture ; and which indeed re-
main feveral days without finding any nourifh-
ment, and are fometimes obliged to appeafe
their hunger with clay. A Hottentot is ca-
pable of eating in one. day ten or twelves

* The latter I had not eat for fome time.

I pounds

AFRICA. 337

pounds of meat; but, on prefling occafions,
a few locufts, a piece of honeycomb, and of-
ten a bit of the leather of his fandals, will
fufice him. I could never make mine com- —
prehend that it was prudent to referve a little
provifion for the day following. They: not
only eat as much as they can, but they diftri-
bute-what remains to whomfoever they meet
with ; they are never difturbed refpeCting the
confequence of this prodigality. We will hunt,
fay they—or we will fleep. The latter is a re-
fource which often relieves them in cafes of
neceflity. I never paffed in thofe barren
and defart places, where game is {carce, with-
out feeing whole hordes of thefe favages afleep
in their kraals, a too certain evidence of their
wretched fituation ; but what may appear very
- furprifing, though I have obferved it more
than twenty times, is, that they command
fleep, and deceive at their pleafure the moft
preffing want of nature. There are however
fome wakeful moments fuperior to habitude,
and to all their powers. In fuch cafes they
employ another expedient no lefs ftrange, and
which, though incredible, is neverthelefs fo
certain that it cannot be controverted. I have
feen them confine their ftomachs by a leather

WoL, I. 4 bandage,

338 TRAV HUISSA DN
bandage, in order to diminifh their hunger,
which they endure for a long time, and appeafe
with very little. This curious method of em-
ploying ligatures is alfo among them a general
remedy, which they ufe for all difeafes. They
bind a clofe bandage round the head, or any
other part affeted, and think that in confining
the diftemper they drive it away. I have been
more than once prefent at fuch operations; and,
after they were finifhed according to the pa-
tients with, I have feen them become quite com-
_ pofed, and reply with more readinefs when I
enquired tenderly how they did, and aflure
me that they found great relief. However
whimfical this cuftom may appear, it would
not be fo generally adopted by thefe people,
did it not anfwer the high idea which they
entertain of it. |
Thofe Hottentots whom [had fent tofearch
for hippopotami foon returned, and informed
me, that in coafting along the river they
obferved one in a place fo covered with reeds,
that they found it impoffible to reach the water
in order to examine it more clofely, but that
every time he approached the furface to
breathe they had heard him diftin&ly ; that

they had in vain fired feveral times to frighten
him,

WA F ORATVC+A) 339
him, and make him change his pofition ; and
that in all probability next morning he would
choofe fome other fpot more favourable to
our defigns. They had fallen in with about
twenty buffaloes alfo, but they did not kill
one. |
The night following, being the 11th of the
month, we were vifited by fome lions, hyznas,
and jackals, which kept us continually on the
watch till two o'clock in the morning. The
{mell of our fteaks and frefh provifions had
undoubtedly attracted them. We found it
very difficult to keep our horfes quiet, and
efpecially the one I had bought from Mr. Mul-
der in the country of Auteniqua. On hear-
ing the cries of thefe ferocious beafts, this
young animal was fo terrified, that we were
under the neceflity of putting fhackles on his
four legs, and double reins to his head, to
prevent him from deftroying himfelf: the
appearance of day reltored us however to our

former tranquillity.

The evening before I had fent a Hotten-
tot to reconnoitre Koks-Kraal, which was the
rendezvous where I agreed to wait for my de-
puties. They had been gone only three days ;

and as I could not expec to fee them fo foon,

Zi 2 I thought

340 TRAVELS GN .
I thought that this retreat might enable me te
follow a new plan of life; and it was here
that I intended for a little while to eftablith
my petty empire, if difagreeable news, or
fome misfortune, did not oblige my meflen-
gers to return. I had however no time to
lofe ; and precaution, always more indifpen-
fable, and which I made a moft fevere law, fuf-
ficiently engaged me to be expeditious. On
the report of my commiffioners, I judged that
we might encamp very conveniently in Koks-
Kraal; and the firft view of this charming
{pot did not deceive my expectation. Having
reached it in three hours, we found an enclofure
about fifty feet fquare, formed by a dry hedge
of branches of trees and thorns; it was deftroyed
in fome places, but it required fcarcely a day
to repair it. For fheltering our cattle the dif-
covery of this enclofure was fo much the
luckier, as it commanded a view of almoft
the whole neighbourhood; on one fide we
obferved the river, from which we were dif-
tant not more than three or four hundred
paces. Whiid beafts, however, were not the
principal objeéts of my uneafinefs ; I thought
more of fecuring them from the Caffres dif-
perfed over the country. I confidered that,
not

ad

AFRICA. 341
not knowing the pacific meafures which I was
purfuing with one of their kings, and not be-
ing acquainted with my manner of thinking
refpecting them, they might every moment
come to attack my camp; and the perfon
whom I chiefly dreaded, was he to whom
Y_ had entrufted the conditions of my embafly,
Having feen with his own eyes what number
of people remained with me, and my ftrength
as well as my weaknefs, and knowing from my
own information my plan and the place where
we were to meet, it was in his power either to
corrupt fuch of my people as accompanied him,
or to betray and aflaflinate them by the way,
What was there at that time to prevent him
from coming unexpectedly at the head of
a numerous party, and falling upon me, and,
by one of thofe ftrokes too common in war, ef-
facing my name from the number of the living?
I muft openly confefs, that with the well-formed
defign of felling my life at a dear rate, my ter-
ror increafed in proportion to the precautions
which I every day took in refpect to my fafe-
ty; but, as the time after the departure of my
envoys increafed, my thoughts became a
little calmer: long abfence leffened the dan-

Z: 3 gers

342 TRAVERS: SIN
ger, and thefe difmal ideas at length became
familiar to me.

Having ordered my large tent to be erected
without the enclofure, and at one of its ex-
tremities, I caufed it to be furrounded by a few
falfe huts to deceive the enemy, as we had at-
tempted at Klyn-Vis-Rivier. At the end of
the enclofure, oppofite my tent, and in one of
its angles, we formed a feparate place for my
horfes, with another for my fheep and goats.
Near thefe I erefted my {mall tent, in which
I propofed to fleep; and we raifed the hedge
of the enclofure fo much with prickly trees,
that it was impoffible for any ferocious ani-
mal to leap over it: by thefe means my flocks
were perfectly fafe in a {pace forty feet {quare,
which was fufhictently wide and commodious.
This kind of a fortification might, in cafe of
neceflity, have even ferved both me and my
people as a place of retreat, where we could
have braved two thoufand Caffres.

Thefe arrangements fatisfied all my com-
panions, {till more uneafy than their chief, and
I faw them gradually refume their former
gaicty. We did not however neglect the
ufual precautions on the approach of night:

at

A FURS Cha 343

atthe diftance of fifty paces from each fide of
the enclofure we kindled large fires, to drive
away the lions and the hyznas, and, for the
greater fecurity, we lighted others around us.
This difpofition was attended with the com-
pleteft fuccefs. I purfued my ordinary occupa-
tions, and thought of nothing elfe but hunt-
ing. Having obferved the firft afternoon
{ome peroquets flying through the air in order
to go and drink at the river, | watched them,
and was lucky enough to kill one of them.
It was a new fpecies, which has never yet been
defcribed: its fize approaches that of the afh-
coloured peroquet of Guinea; its general co-
lour is a green of different fhades, but the legs
and the tip of the wings are of a beautiful
orange. I fhall give an ample account of it
in my defcription of birds. We were vilited
alfo during the day-time by confiderable troops
of bawians, or apes of the fame fpecies as my
friend Kees. Thefe animals, aftonithed at fee-
ing fo many people, were {till more fo to —
obferve one of their own kind remaining
very peaceably amongft us, and to hear him
anfwer them in good language. One day they
came down from a little hill which ftood
- mear my camp; and in lefs than half an hour

Z 4 above

344 TRAVELS alNn

above an hundred of them, prompted by cu-
riofity, furrounded us, continually repeating
gou-a-cou, gou-a-cou, for the voice of Kees
had greatly emboldened them. There were
many among them much larger than the reft,
but they were all of the fame fpecies: they
performed a thoufand tricks and gefticulations,
which I fhould in vain attempt to defcribe.
Thofe would be much deceived who fhould
judge of them from thofe degenerated apes,
which pine in a ftate of flavery, languor, and
fear, in Europe, or which are ftifled by the
carefles of our ladies, or poifoned by their
dainties. The thick atmofphere of our climates
damps their natural livelinefs, and deftroys
them, nor can they be made to laugh but by
the force of blows.

A fingularity however, which I have already
had occafion to remark, engaged my attention.
Kees, which I held by the paw, though he
knew thefe animals to be of the fame fpecies,
and replied to them, would never go near
them. I dragged him towards them, but, con-
tented with being on their guard, they fhewed
no figns of fear, and faw me approach with as
much tranquillity as Kees fhewed agitation
in refifting., All of afudden he made his efcape

from

AR Rd C aay 345

from me, and ran to hide himfelf in my tent,
The caufe of this terror was perhaps owing to
his being afraid that they would carry him
along with them. He was very ftrongly at-
tached to me, and [ with to do him honour
for this fentiment. In the mean time the reft
of the apes continued their gefticulations, and
feemed to force themfelves to exhibit tricks
and emit cries in order to amufe me, till fa-
tigued by their noife, and tired of this fpecta-
cle, I wifhed to procure myfelf another. On
difcharging a fufee, all my dogs were foon at
their heels; and it was very amufing to fee in
how light a manner and with what nim-
blenefs they fled ; they inftantly difperfed
themfelves, and, leaping from rock to rock,

difappeared with the velocity of lightning.
On the 13th I was awakened very early in
the morning by the cry of a bird which I did
not, know. Its tones, which were full and
well fupported, had no refemblance to any
thing [ had ever before heard. As they ap-
peared to be really extraordinary, I inflantly
ftarted up, and got clofe to the bird without
being perceived ; yet as it was fcarcely day, I
{aw it but very indiftin@ly through the bufhy
branches of a tree upon which it was perched,
4 7 and

346 TRAVELS: 4N

and I was fo unfortunate as ‘to fuffer it to
efcape. By its flight, however, I could dif-
tinguifh that it was a goat-fucker * ; I indeed
was not deceived, for fome days after I had an
opportunity of killing feveral of them.

This bird is very different from the goat-
fucker known in Europe, and which has only
one plaintive cry like that of the common
toad, which probably has given rife to its
French name +; but that of Africa is very
diftinét, and fuch as cannot poflibly be imitated.
It continues finging for whole hours after fun-
fet, fometimes during the whole night; and
this difference, added to that of its feathers,
makes it a new {pecies.

I killed alfo feveral very pretty birds ; and
among others a barbet {, of a very {mall un-
known fpecies, and a cuckoo which I named
the bawler§, becaufe its thrill cry may indeed be
heard at a great diftance: this cry, or, to ex-
prefs myfelf more corre€tly, this fong, has no
refemblance to that of our cuckoo in Europe,

* The goat fucking owl ; called alfo in fome parts of
England the churn owl, or fernowl. T.
+ Crapaud volant, or the flying toad. T.
+ Bucco capenfis Linn. T.
§ In French Criard.
and

AF RE CRAs 947

and its plumage alfo is entirely different. In
this canton I found likewife a great many of
the golden cuckoos defcribed by Buffon un-
der the name of the green-golden cuckoo of the
Cape. This bird is undoubtedly the moft beau-
tiful of its fpecies, for its plumage 1s enriched
with white, green, and gold. Perched on the
tops of large trees, it continually repeats, and
with a varied modulation, thefe fyllables, a,
di, didric, as diftinGly as I have written them ;
for this reafon I have named it the didric. As
I was thus amufing myfelf in purfuing fome
{mall birds, I perceived a flock of vultures and
crows, which were making a great noife, and
foaring round and round intheair. When I
reached the fpot almoft below them, I faw
the remains of a buffalo, which had been de-
voured by lions perhaps not twenty-four hours
before. On the firft view of the field of battle,
I concluded that the confli@ muft have been
terrible ; all the ground around feemed to have
been beat and trod upon; [ could count how
many times the buffalo had been thrown down,
and I found tufts of the lion’s mane fcattered
here and there, which the former had with-
out doubt torn away either with his feet or his
horns,

Having

348 . TRAVELS £N :
Having obferved near this fpot, which was
not far diftant from the river, the frefh traces
of two hippopotami, I followed thefe marks,
and eafily difcovered the place where the ani-
mals had again entered the water. I liftened
very attentively, but I heard nothing; and the
banks of the river were fo encumbered with
reeds and fhrubs, that I could not get near
them. Thefe animals therefore had every ad-
vantage to enable them to conceal themfelves,
and to avoid rifing up from the water to breathe.
ttwould havebeen lofing time to wait for them;
the hour of dinner was approaching, and I
was both tired and hungry. As I had advanced
too far in purfuit of my goat-fucker and other
birds, I fet out to return to my camp by the
fhorteft way ; and while I was going towards
the eaft, and directing my route by the fun,
the report of a fufee, fired almoft at my ear,
meade me ftart, and filled me with the greater
fear, as it was unexpected. Knowing that it
could be fired only by fome of my people, Iran
towards the place whence the found feemed
to proceed, and found one of my worft mark{-
men wafling my powder in vain. He told
me that he had been watching an hippopo-

tamus from the break of day, that he had
| fired

AF URGIVCAAG 34%
fired at him, and that he had not the leaft
doubt of his being killed. A very unfkilful
hand may fometimes do execution by chance;
and though it was neceflary to wait more than
a quarter of an hour before we could fee tke
animal rife up from the water, I refolved to
watch him myfelf, and to fend my Hottentot
in queft of more people; givirg him orders
at the fame time to bring me fome refrefh-
ment. At the end of an hour and an half,
which I paffed very impatiently, my people ar-
rived, but the hippopotamus had not appeared.
The hunter however affured me, that after he
had fired he had feen him plunge into the
water,and had obferved alfo a violent ebuilition
and feveral {pots of blood on the furface. He
added, that the current being very ftrong, the
animal might perhaps have been carried away
by it, which I thought very probable; on this
account he fet out in hopes of finding it lower
down, while I returned to my camp to diflec
the birds which I had killed.

About three in the afternoon we were at-
tacked by a dreadful ftorm; and the foref
which bordered the mountain was feveral
times ftruck with lightning. One of my
people returned with an antelope he had kill-

ed;

350 TRAVIBLS AIN

ed; and he who had fired at the river horfe
came back very late without having feen any
thing. This difappointment afforded his com-
panions a fubje& for ridiculing him. He be-
came the object of the farcafms of all my wits ;
every one put in his word; and they withed
to perfuade him that the animal at which he
fired had been only a guana*. Thefe plea-
fantries being infenfibly converted into abufe,
I obferved that their ridicule was about to be
terminated by a combat with fifts ; but by one
word | put an end to their warmth, and made
the orators be filent.

On the 14th the rain fell fo abundantly
during the whole night, that it extinguifhed
our fires, nor was it poffible for us to kindle
them again. Our dogs made a dreadful noife,
which kept us all awake, but we faw no fero-
cious animals. I obferved that in thefe rainy
nights the lion, the tyger, and the hyzna, are
entirely filent, and it is then that the greateft
danger is to be apprehended ; for as thefe ani-
mals never ceafe on fuch occafions to range
through the fields, they fall upon their prey
without giving warning, and without allowing

* The guana is a kind of large lizard, very common

in the rivers of Africa.

people

ACF Rel Ge 351
people time to be upon their guard. What
ftill adds to the dread which, this difagreeable
circumftance occafions is, that the moifture
deprives the dogs of their fenfe of fmelling,
and on this account they are of no ule. My
people were too well aware of this danger ;
for when the rain had put out our fires, it
was with great difficulty they could be pre-
vailed on to re-light them, fo much were they
afraid of being furprifed.

Ic muft indeed be allowed, that ftormy
nights in the defarts of Africa exhibit a pic-
ture of defolation, and people find themfelves
involuntarily ftruck with terror. When they
are furprifed by thefe deluges, they foon
penetrate a tent, and inundate all the mats;
continued flafhes of lightning in. their rapid
paflage exhibit a momentary blaze amidft the
moft profound obfcurity ; the loud claps of
thunder, which burft forth on all fides with an
awful noife, feem to clafh together, and are
multiplied by being re-echoed from mountain
to mountain; the cries of domettic animals,
and a few intervals of dreadful filence, all con-
{pire to render the {cene more difmal, while
the danger of being attacked by ferocious
beafts {till adds to the common terror: no-

I thing

352 TRAVELS ALN
thing but the appearance of day car leffen the
dread, and reftore tranquillity to nature.

The following morning was {till gloomy :
the atmofphere was loaded with clouds, and
the rain redoubled at intervals. Being there-
fore little difpofed to go abroad, I employed
myfelf in reviewing my collection of birds, —
which I had recently preferved. As I hada
fufficient quantity to fill a box, I arranged
them in one with much care, and daubed it
over with pitch as ufual, to prevent infects
from getting into it. The number of thofe
which I then poffeffed, added to thofe I had
before fent from the ccuntry of Auteniqua,
already exceeded feven hundred.

About four in the afternoon the fky be-
eame ferene, and very feafonably revived
our drooping fpirits. We refumed there-
fore our ufual occupations, and I amufed my-
felf with making my people fire at a mark,
which afforded them much entertainment.
From time to time I took care to grant them
this indulgence, as it exercifed them; and I
remarked, from the commencement of my
journey, that their courage increafed in pro-
portion to their dexterity: but they confidered
as a great favour what I permitted only with

a political

A. 8 RAT, 353
a political view of procuring more fafety to
my caravan. ‘The ordinary prize was a ra-
tion of tobacco ; a bottle fufpended from a rock
was the mark, and the conditions were to
break it at the diftance of two hundred and
fifty paces. One named Pit gained the prize
that day at the fifty-fourth thot; and he very
generoufly fhared it with all the reft who had
contended. The balls were not all loft ; they
were almoft all found at the bottom of the —
rock, but it was neceflary to have them all caft
again.

As the fetting of the fun feemed to an-
nounce fine weather the next morning, I
formed a defign of hunting hippopotami in
proper form. I fent feveral men to try what
difcoveries they could make on the banks of
the river: we cleaned all our fire-arms, and we ©
caft feveral balls of a large fize, into which I
put, according to the African cuftom, an eighth
part of tin. By thefe means balls are capable
of making a greater refiftance, and they pene-
trate better, becaufe they do not become flat
when they meet with bones. Their effec
would be more certain were it poffible to em-
ploy pure tin only; but being then much
lighter, they would not Ay fo far, nor hit fo
Wo. I. Aa exactly,

354 TRAVELS IN

exactly. After our fires were kindled for
the night, which was not eafily done, as the
earth was moift, and our wood exceedingly
wet, I regaled my people with tea, and I am_
certain that upon one ounce they poured at
leaft fifty pints of boiling water.

This evening was one of the moft amufing
I had ever fpent. I had ftill the fame jokes
and the fame merry tales from thefe good peo-
“ple, who, all feated around a large fire, en-
deavoured to divert their mafter, and, defirous
to engage his attention and give him proofs
of their attachment and fincerity, made him
eafily forget what mafter-piece was crowned
that day in fuch or fuch an academy. - My
Lyceum was undoubtedly as good as any
other of the fame kind. The prowefs to be
fhewn next morning in hunting the hippo-
potamus was above all brought upon the car- —
pet: every body hoped to be of the party ;
and I found great difficulty in arranging it
fo as to pleafe all. I was defirous that fome
of thefe f{portfmen fhould difperfe themfelves
throughout the country, to fhoot antelopes, on
which I depended more for provifions than
on hippopotami, as the banks of the river

were fo covered with reeds and large trees,
, that

A FoR Td) Cia. 455

that it always appeared to me more and more
difficult to difcover them, and to get near
them. As night was in the mean time ad-

vancing, and as I did not fee thofe hunters
arrive whom I had fent out to make difco«
veries, I ordered my largeft piece to be fired |
three times ; yet it was nearly half an hour be-
fore they returned any anfwer. At length,
however, we heard, four or five minutes after
each other, three reports, which made us con-
clude that they had perhaps fallen in with
fome of thefe animals. A quarter of an hour
after, we heard three reports more; but the
found did not feem to proceed from fo great
a diftance as the former: at length the firing
continued at certain intervals, and feemed
more and more to approach us; which induced
us to believe that thefe unfortunate people
were purfued by fome ferocious animals. On
this account, | ran immediately to meet them;
and, when I found them, they appeared to be
trembling and in great terror. ‘They had,
however, feen nothing ; but, by the reftleffnefs
of the two dogs which they had carried with
them, it was too clear that their lives had been
in danger from lions, and that they had nar-

rowly efcaped. The dogs indeed had not ~
} , Aa2 deceived.

356 TRAVELS. ax

deceived them. I learned from them alfo,
that they had heard the f{norting of fome hip-
popotami above the place in which they had
hid themfelves: this account renewed my
hopes ; but, as we had great need of repofe, I
retired to my tent. Scarcely had I fallen
afleep, when, at about half an hour after ele-
ven, I was fuddenly alarmed by the roaring
of a lion, which was heard by another, that
feemed at firft to anfwer from a very great
diftance ; but in a quarter of an hour the latter
joined him, and both of them began to prowl
around our camp. We marched about, how-
ever, with fo much boldnefs and fpeed, and
we fired fo often, that we intimidated them
by the noife, and obliged them to depart.
We were now under no doubt that they were
the fame which had followed our hunters.
On this occafion they were indebted for their
fafety to the dogs, which they had carried
along with them: being informed by them
of the danger which threatened them, the
fignals of diitrefs directed to us had been fuf-
ficient to keep the enemy at a diftance.

It is hardly poffible to conceive how much
the boldeft dogs tremble on the approach of a
lion, Nothing is fo eafy as to difcover, by

their

ABRBRI GM 34

their looks, during the night, what kind of
ferocious animals are in the neighbourhood.
If it be a lion, the dog, without ftirring from
the fpot, begins to howl in a moft melan-
choly tone; he feems very uneafy and.reft-
lefs; he approaches his mafter, keeps clofe to
him, and fawns upon him as if he meant to
fay, You muft defend me. Other domeftic ani-
mals are under no lefs agitation; all of them
tart up; not one of them remains in a lying
pofture; and the oxen bellow in a plaintive
manner, but with a low voice. MHorfes beat
the earth, and caper about in all directions ;
goats exprefs their fear alfo by peculiar figns ;
and fheep, with their heads hung down, col-
le&t themfelves into a body, and prefs as
clofely againft one another as they can. They
appear then as one mafs, and continue in that
pofition without the leaft motion. Man alone,
haughty and confident of his own fuperiority,
fnatches up his arms, palpitates with impa-
tience, and pants after his victim.

On fuch occafions the terror of Kees was
ftill mere apparent. As much frightened by
the reports of our fufees which we fired on
the approach of the lion, the leaft movement
would make him ftart ; he moaned like a fick

Aa3 perfon,

358 TRAVELS #4y

perfon, and dragged himfelf along at my fide
in amoft languid condition. My cock feemed
only aftonifhed at the convulfive agitation of
my camp, while a common hawk would have
thrown him into the greateft confternation.
He dreaded the {mell of a weafel more than ©
all the lions of Africa united. Thus each
being has fome enemy which it defies, and
the latter in its turn bends before a ftronger.
Man, however, braves all, except thofe of his
own {pecies. ,

We indeed fee animals of the fame kind
fight with one another ; but they are impelled
to this, merely for a moment, by love, the
' only paffion that difunites them, after which
every thing again returns to its former order.
A more continued and durable hatred may
however be obferved among domeftic animals.
Is this the effet of education or of example?

But I return to the different figns by which
. danger is announced; and it may be readily
believed that no one has had a better oppor-
_ tunity of obferving them in the minuteft man-
ner. All the books and compilations, and all
the {peculative eloquence in the world, can
never overturn obfervations fo often repeated

on the grand theatre of the African defarts.
4 If

ACP ROTO oAg 359

If it be an hyzna that is prowling in the
neighbourhood, the boldeft of the dogs pur-
fues him to a certain diftance, and feems not
to be much afraid of him; and an ox con-
tinues lying without manifefting terror, un-
lefs it be a young one, which for the firft time
hears this dangerous animal. The cafe is the
fame with the horfe, which, with his foot tied
to his halter, remains all night in the mea-
dows, and fhews no kind of fear.

If it be jackals (a kind of foxes) that
are ranging around, the dogs purfue them
brifkly as far as poffible; unlefs, happily for
the latter, there be lions or hyxnas in the
neighbourhood; for as foon as they perceive —
them, fear obliges them to return, and brings
them foon back to their retreat. A

The Hottentots pretend that the jackal is
a fpy to other ferocious animals, and that it
comes to provoke and detain tle dogs, in
order that the lion or the hyzxna, feizing that
opportunity, may more eafily lay hold of their
prey, which, as an acknowledgment for the
fervice received, they fhare amicably with ©
them. ae
- What I have feen confirms pretty ftrongly
this affertion, which, perhaps, may be a little

Aaa | exag-

360 TRAVELS IN®

exaggerated. However this may be, it is |

certain that the moment the jackals begin
their concerts, the hyznas never fail to arrive
{peedily ; but they do not fhew themfelves
openly, till they fee the dogs fully engaged.
We always kept two of them coupled toge-
ther, to bark in the abfence of the reft, in or-
der to prevent the hyznas, which are lefs
afraid of fire than the lion, from approaching
too near us.

Next morning, the 15th, day-light had
{carcely appeared, when we were on foot. Af
ter breakfaft, I difpatched three hunters to
the woods and the plain, with orders to fearch
for buffaloes, antelopes, gnous, and koedoes ;
whilft 1 took with me four of the beft fhoot-
ers, and three men to carry my large carabine,
ammunition, and a few pieces of dried fleth,
in cafe we fhould be obliged to pafs the whole
day in the field ; and, leaving old Swanepoel,
with the reft of my people, to guard the camp,
we departed.

In going along the fide of the river, we
kept as near the banks as we could, obferv-
ing the greateft filence. In this manner we
marched three hours without difcovering any
thing ; but perceiving at length the tra& of

an

A,

ay
i
me
it
”

IAB RICAS 361

£ "y

i an hippopotamus which muft have paffed

that way in the night, we followed it for an
hour and a half, and it conducted us to the
place where the animal had thrown itfelf into
the water; upon which we diftributed ourfelves
along the banks, at a certain diftance one from
the other, to liften. The perfon who was at
the greateft diftance having difcharged his
fufee, we ran towards him, and found that he
had fired at the animal, but miffed it. Very
luckily we did not wait long before we faw
it appear again, and heard it breathe, but
it had reached the oppofite fhore. ‘Though
the river was very broad, two of my people

_fwam over, in hopes of forcing it to keep at

leaft in the middle, if they could not bring
it within reach of us. ‘This attempt per-
fettly fucceeded ; but the animal was fo ti-+
mid, that when it breathed it fcarcely raifed
its noftrils above the furface of the water.
As it changed its place every moment, it
never fhewed itfelf in the fpot where we
were waiting for it, and. it plunged fo

often and fo quickly, that it gave us no time

to take aim. We had already fired thirty
times without touching it. The two Hot-
tentots who crofled the river had no fufees ;

a) | and

362 TRAVELS? ia;
and the cunning animal remarking that they —
did not fire, kept continually on that fide. I
therefore difpatched Pit, who had won the
prize in fhooting at a mark, ordering him to
crofs the river out of the animal’s fight, to
join his companions by going a little way
about, and, above all, not to fire till he was
fure of his aim: all which he executed with
much intelligence. The animal, which on >
the other fide thought itfelf out of our
reach, having no fufpicion, raifed its whole
head fometimes out of the water, and at one
of thefe moments, Pit: direéted his fhot fo
well, that the hippopotamus received it, and
immediately dived. It was feverely wound-
ed, I am certain, for it appeared foon after
with the greater part of its body above the
furface, and agitated with convulfive motions.
Embracing this opportunity, I fired, and
lodged my ball in its breaft, upon which it
again plunged, and did not appear till the ex-
piration of twenty-feven minutes. Being
then dead, it floated along with the current,
and fome of my people having fwum to it,
puthed it towards us clofe to the bank.

I can fcarcely defcribe the joy which we all

felt when we at length faw this monftrous
| animal

AF RA Cm 363

animalin our poffeffion; but I and my people
were actuated by very different motives.
Gluttony prefented it to their eyes as a de-
licious morfel, on which they were about to
feed ; whilft curiofity exhibited it to my mind
as an intereftine objet of natural hiftory,
which I did not know but from books and
engravings. :

The legs of this waiiial being very fhort in
proportion to its bulk, favoured us fo much,
that we were able to roll it to land, as we
would have rolled a German bully. The ani-
mal was alfo round; and I could not be fatif-
fied with admiring and examining this enor-
“mous mafs, which was a female, with the mi-
—nuteft attention. Pit’s ball had ftruck exa@ly
above the left eye, and was found lodged in
its jaw ; but I much doubted whether that had
occafioned its death. Mine, on the contrary,
entering precifely near the omoplate, had bro- |
ken one of its ribs, and pafled through its
lungs from one fide to another.

From the muzzle to the root of the tail, it
was ten feet feven inches in length, and eight
feet eleven inches in circumference. Its tufks,
which were crooked, were only five inches in
Jength, and an inch in diameter in the thickeft

part,

364 TRAVELS tN

part, which induced me to believe that it was
a young one. I found no foetus in it; and
its {tomach contained nothing but fome leaves
and a few chewed reeds. I even obferved
pieces of branches of the fize of a goofe quill,
which were only flatted. In the ftomach or
excrements, it 1s generally remarked that.
large animals, fuch as the rhinoceros and the
elephant, triturate very flightly the different
kinds of food which they eat.

All the figures of the hippopotamus hitherto
given are very imperfect; the beft I know
is undoubtedly that of Mr. Allaman, profeflor
of medicine at Leyden. It was engraved
from a drawing fent to him by Mr. Gordon.
In my defcription of animals, I fhall copy that
which I executed myfelf, and I hope that it —
will give fatisfaCtion to naturalifts, When I
had finifhed my obfervations, I immediately
cifpatched a Hottentot to bring two yoke of ©
{trong oxen next morning, to tranfport our
capture ; and, as it was now dark, we chofe out
a large tree, at the root of which we propofed
to pafs the night: but we did not go far from
the banks of the river; for as we could not
roll the animal farther, and were unwilling to
expofe it to the chance of being devoured by

} wild

AFRICA, » @65
wild beafts, we were under the neceflity of
having it in our view. We were not fur-
rounded or covered by many trees; and this
rendered our fituation ftill more critical. We
might indeed have been eafily furprifed; but
by means of extraordinary fires which we
kindled, and of twenty fhots fired at intervals,
we remained all night in perfect tranquillity.
We were not however able to fleep, for we
were tormented by myriads of gnats, attracted
by the vicinity of the water, and the coolnefs
of the place we had chofen: One of my
Hottentots, who fell afleep, was fo ffung by
them, that his face {welled fo much as to ren,
der it almoft impoffible to know him.

I took care to order one of the feet of the
hippopotamus to be cut off, which my people
prepared in the fame manner as that of the
firft elephant I killed in pafling the mountain |
called Duyvals-Kop, to go from the country
of Auteniqua to that of Ange-Kloof. I found
great difficulty in fetting my people to work,
_ for they had {pent the whole night in ftuffing
themfelves with the feth of the hippopotamus.
I faw them broil pieces two or three feet in
length, and a foot in breadth; and they feem-
ed:to be in want of nothing except fleep.

The

366 TRAVELS AN

The foot which had been drefied for me
during the night was ferved up for my break-
faft; it was exceedingly nourifhing; and I
thought it even fuperior to that of the ele-
phant: it was more delicate, and I never eat
any thing in my life with more pleafure.

Though the hippopotamus is extremely fat,
its greafe has nothing in it difgufting ; and it
does not produce any of thofe bad effects
which are occafioned by that of other animals.
My people melted it, and drank it from bafins,
as if it had been breth. Befides this, by rub-
bing it over their bodies, they fhone as much
as if they had been varnithed, and their {wollen
bellies fufiiciently fhewed that they had not
been very {paring in their repafts during the
night.

I had forgot to order a horfe for myfelf;
but Swanepoel fupplied this omiflion; for
the heat was exceflive, and we were diitant
full fix leagues from my camp. Having fixed
a large chain to the head of the hippopotamus,
and yoked twelve oxen to it, while they went
along the banks of the river they experienced
much difficulty and fatigue, either from the
inequality of the road, or from the trunks of
large trees, which every moment interrupted

| their

AF RL CA 367
their paflage; but when we once arrived at
the level country, which was covered with
long grafs, I ordered the oxen to be relieved ;
and obferving that they went on at a good
_pace, I mounted my horfe, to get before
them. Yager, my favourite dog, which never
quitted me, and always followed me in my
hunting excurfions, was obliged for this time
to remain behind, not being able to keep up
with me. He copied the example of my
Hottentots, and did not arrive with them till
_ five in the afternoon.

The three hunters whom I had fent out in
another quarter had alfo returned completely
loaded, having killed two gnous and three
antelopes; fo that we found ourfelves fuffi-
ciently ftocked with provifions: but the great
heat, and the friction of the hippopotamus
- againft the earth, had fo mangled and hurt its
_ body, that fome of the moft tender and deli-
cate parts were f{poilt, and began to {mell. On
this account we were obliged to employ the
night in cutting it up: part of it was falted in
the {kins of the two gnous which my hunters
had brought with them; and the choice mor-
fels I ordered to be put into a brandy barrel,
the head of which we knocked out after we

: had

368 TRAV EAL BAL N

had drawn off the liquor into earthen jugs.
‘This operation afforded my people an oppor-
tunity of getting drunk. |

The night following our two lions returned
again, and I imagined that all the jackals and
hyenas of the country had aflembled to pay
us a vifit,. One of the latter had the boldnefs
to crofs our fires, and to advance clofe to the
fpot where we were. A Hottentot difcharged
his piece at it, but he unluckily miffed his aim.
The jackals even entered our camp; and, with-
out the affiflance of our dogs, we fhould have
been forced to fhare our booty with thefe ani-
mals, which feemed determined not to be dif-
appointed.

Next morning my people were employed in
cutting to pieces the hide of the hippopotamus,
to make what in the country are called chan-
boc. Thefe are whips for flogging the oxen
which are under the hand of the driver on the
pole of the waggon: they are fhaped like thofe
ufed in Europe for horfes, but they are thicker
and longer; and as the fixin, where ftrongelt,
may be about two inches in thicknefs, they
are cut into thongs two inches broad, which
makes thefe pieces about two inches {fquare.
They are fometimes fix feet in length, and

: when

—

AT RIC # 369
when cut out a weight is fufpended at their
lower extremity, to make them dry fooner.
A round form is then given them by beating
them with a mallet, obferving to make them
taper to a point at one of the ends. Thofe
which are made fmaller for riding have this
advantage over thofe of Europe, that they
never break, efpecially if from time to time

care be taken to moiften them with a little oil.

The fkin of the rhinoceros is employed for
the fame purpofe ; and the inhabitants of the
Cape give it the preference (though a whip
made of this is far from being equally folid as
that made of the other), becaufe it is capable of
receiving a finer polifh, has the beautiful co-
lour of horn, and becomes almoft as tranfpa-
rent.

With regard to the planters, who have no
tafte for elegance, and who prefer the ufeful
to the agreeable, they employ only the former.
Both, indeed, are fold at a very high rate, as the

animals which furnifh the materials for mak-

ing thefe whips are no longer found in the
colonies, and as thofe individuals who fome-
times penetrate farther are not always certain
of meeting with them.

VoL, I. Bb The

370 TRAVELS ALN

The fkin, however, of thefe animals can-
not be better employed. It has a great re-
femblance, if we except its thicknefs, to that
of the hog ; and the hippopotamus approaches.
very near to that animal. ‘To perfons not
previoufly informed, their fat would appear to
be entirely the fame; and, if that of the hip-
popotamus could be falted with all the precau-
tions neceflary, it might be preferred with
more juftice, as in all the colonies it is rec-
koned very wholefome. ‘The people of the
Cape are perfuaded that, taken in a potion, it
is fufficient to cure radically thofe who are af-
flicted with diforders of the breaft. That which
I preferved in bottles made of {kins had the
ufual confiftency of olive oil, during the great
colds of winter.

The tufks of the hippopotamus are endowed
with a quality which renders them preferable
to ivory. The latter, in time, becomes yel-
low ; but, in whatever manner the former may
be prepared, they retain their whitenefs in all
its purity. It is not therefore aftonifhing that
the Europeans, and, above all, the French;
confider them as a great objet of traffic. By
the affiftance of art they fupply the deficiencies

of

AFR RC A. 371
of nature, and make a moft admirable figure
in the mouth of a pretty woman.

This prize was fo feducing that my Hot-
tentots depended on enjoying the pleafure of
a fecond hunting excurfion; but I found that
, we had a fufficiency of provifions, and that it-
would be better to.employ our time more ufe-
fuily, and to vary our occupations, or rather
our pleafures, a little more. Having a ftrong
inclination to try my net here, it was with
great difiiculty we could find a place in the
river convenient fer cafting it ; we, however,
fomehow fucceeded; but we caught only
about twenty fifh, of different kinds. The
largeft were fcarcely fix inches in length; and
when fried in the greafe of the hippopotamus
they appeared to me excellent. As this {port
procured us no advantage worthy of attention,
and as I was difgufted with the embarraflment
we experienced in approaching the river in
the manner we withed, I ordered the net to
be carried away. During the time my people
were employed in folding it, a bird perched
near us, which, inftead of being frightened by
‘our prefence, approached more and more,
fending forth very fhrill cries. I was told
that it was the bird which difcovers honey 3

Oe Ne 28 and

402 TRAVELS? AN

and I remarked in its geftures and cry a great
affinity with thofe of the bird known to orni-
thologifts under the name of the cuculus indi~
cator ; but it was much larger than thofe which

I had before feen. My Hottentots, who re-

fpect it on account of the fervices which it
tenders them, begged me to fpare it. A
new fpecies, however, was to be added to my
collection, and I killed it. This bird is of
the genus of the common indicator, but larger,
and different in its plumage; it is a variety
of it.

I did more afterwards, I killed three dif-
ferent fpecies of thefe birds, all equally indi-
cators.

The favages of Africa know them well, and
treat them as deities. They live only on ho-
ney or wax ; and it is they that involuntarily
point out to them where they will find abun-
dant repofitories of both. :

Naturalifts, for what reafon I know not,
place the zndicator among the cuckoos; it has
no relation, however, to this genus, but in the
conformation of its feet; and being different
by other phyfical characters, it is much more
fo by its manner of living. At the rifk of
being expofed to an anathema from the cabi-

nets

*

AFRICA. a73

nets of the fcientific, I muft continually repeat
that large volumes piled up in libraries are no-
thing to the book of nature ; and that an error,
though fupported by an hundred eloquent
pens, is neverthelefs full an error.

This bird is no more a cuckoo than pies,
barbets, perroquets, toucans, and all thofe {pe-
cies which have two toes before and two be-
hind. [If it is to be ranked in any known
clafs, 1t would belong rather to that of the
barbets, becaufe it has more affinity to thefe.

In its ftomach I found nothing but honey
and wax: I did not obferve the {malleft por-
tion of any infect. Its fkin is thick, and fo
tough, that when it is frefh it can {carcely be
penetrated bya pin. This to me is an inftance
of the wonderful precaution of nature, which
having deftined it to contend for its fub-
fiftence with the moft ingenious of all infects,
gave it a covering {trong enough to defend it
from their ftings.

It builds its neft in hollow trees, climbs up
to it in the fame manner as the wood-pecker,
and hatches its eggs itfelf. This circumftance
is fufficient to feparate it totally from the
cuckoo, and to make it a new genus,

In my ornithology will be giyen accurate

Bb3 _ + figures

374 TRAVEL 5d 8

fizures and defcriptions of the three {pecies of
indicators Which I know.

My Hottentot, Klaas, on returning from
hunting, brought me an eagle which he had
killed. It was a fpecies I had never before
feen, and which no author has defcribed. For
this fervice, I rewarded him in a proper man-
ner, and gave him a ration of tobacco; not
that I ought to be generous towards a man
whom I tenderly loved, and to whom I could
not refufe the fmaileft favour, without being
cruel, but by his example to excite all my
people to make fome difcoveries.

‘This bird, which was entirely black, feemed
to me, by its characteriftics, to belong rather to
the vulture than the eagle kind; but I knew
that it differed in its manners, In every thing
elfe, the analogy is very great ; for, when ne-
ceflary, the eagle becomes a vulture ; that is to
fay, when prefied by hunger, if nothing bet-
ter occurs, for the moment, it feeds as well as
any other bird of prey upon rotten carrion ;
and it is a great error to imagine that it lives
only upon what it catches itfelf.. When I
caufed the remains of the large animals we
had killed to be feattered in the fields, in or=
der to attract carnivorous birds, eagles and

butcher- |

AFORE C ® 375

butcher-birds came alfo to partake of them,
as well as vultures. |

I muft here afk pardon of the ancient and
modern poets, for thus degrading the dignity
_ of this noble animal: it is fhocking I con-

fefs, to fee this fublime bird of the mafter
of the gods fall fhamefully upon the {fcat-
tered remains of an infectious carcafe, and
feed with great pleafure.

On the 18th we {pent part of the night in
firing our pieces to drive away two more.
lions, and a voracious flock of hyznas. I did
not fleep till very late, and when I awaked I
was greatly furprifed to find about a {core of
the Gonaqua Hottentots in my camp. ‘This
vifit, and its confequences, deferve a more
ample detail. ‘The reader, in this plain nar-
ration, will acquire jufter ideas refpecting the
African favages, than from all the differtations
of philofophers.

The chief approached to pay his refpedts to
me, and the women in full drefs marched be-
hind him. They all fhone very much, and
had been newly boughoued; that is to fay, after
rubbing their bodies with greafe, they had
-befprinkled themfelves with a kind of red pow-
der, made of a root named in the country

Bip ae boug hott,

376, « TRAYVELSs IN
boughou, and which has a very agreeable odor,
Their faces were all painted in a different
manner, and each of them made me fome
{mall prefent. One gave me oftrich’s eggs,
another a young lamb, and fome offered me
an abundant provifion of milk in bafkets
which appeared to be made of ofier. ‘Thefe
utenfils aftonifhed me much. “ Milk in baf-
“ kets!” faid I: “‘fuch an invention undoubt-
* edly announces a great deal of ingenuity !”
And calling to mind thofe milk veffels made
of copper, which were formerly ufed at Paris,
before they were profcribed by the wifdom of
the police, I perceived, on comparing them
with the former, how inferior a great people,
with all their arts, their learned men, and their
Louvre, often are, in refpe&t of their fimpleft
wants, to thofe whom they affect to defpife.
Thefe pretty bafkets are woven of fo deli-
cate reeds, and fo clofe in their texture, that
they may be employed in carrying water ; on
this account I found them of very great fervice
afterwards. The chief of the Gonaquas in-
formed me that they were made by the
Caffres, from whom they procured them by
giving them other things in exchange.
_ The chief, who was named Haabas, made

me

é

AF RalyGh Ay . | og
me a prefent of a bunch of oftrich feathers,
exceedingly beautiful. To fhew him how
much I valued it, I immediately tore away a
plume of the fame kind, which I wore in my
hat, and put his in its place. By the looks of
the good old man, [ could eafily perceive how
much he was pleafed with what I had done;
and he ftill farther teftified by his geftures and
words the fatisfa€gon he received from my
conduct.

It was now my turn to fhew my gratitude
to the chief, and I began by giving him a few
pounds of tobacco. I was about to enjoy a
moft agreeable fcene at very little expence,
and to render more than one happy. bya
common fignal Haabas ordered all his people
to approach; and in an inftant they formed
themfelves into a circle, and fquatted down

. like fo many apes, All the tobacco was dif-

tributed; and I remarked, with much pleafure,
that the portion which Haabas referved for
himfelf was not larger than any of the reft. I
was fenfibly affected by this goodnefs of heart
and fpirit of juftice, which he difplayed in fo |
{imple and natural a manner; and I gave him
for himfelf, in addition to the prefent made be-
fore, a knife, a piece of fteel, a box of tinder,

7 and

378 TRAV Et ore
and a necklace of large glafs beads. To the

women I gave beads and copper wire for
bracelets. Amidft thefe reciproéal prefents and
the fentiments of affeCtion with which they
mutually infpired us, I obferved a young girl
of fixteen, confounded with the crowd, who
fhewed more curiofity in examining my per-
fon, than eagernefs to fhare in the trinkets
which I was diftributing to her companions.
She looked at me with fo much attention, —
that I approached her that fhe might have
more time to furvey meat her leifure. I found
that her figure was altogether enchanting; fhe
had the frefheft and the moft beautiful teeth
in the world; her perfon was flender and
elegant, and her fhape, formed to infpire love,
might have ferved as a model for the pencil
of Albano. She was the youngeft of the
Graces, under the figure of a Hottentot.

The imprefiions made by beauty are uni-
verfal: it is a fovercign who reigns. over all ;
and I was fenfible, by the profufion of my
prefents, that 1 bowed a little under its fway.
My young favage foon grew familiar. I had
given her a girdle, a pair of bracelets, and a
necklace of large white beads, with which fhe
feemed to be highly delighted. I untied from

my

APR T Coa 399

my neck a red handkerchief, which fhe wrap-
ped round her head; and with this drefs fhe
was what in polite language might be called
charming. -I took great pleafure in ornament-
ing her myfelf; and, when I had finithed, the
requefted fome trinkets for her fifter, who had
remained with the horde. With her finger
fhe pointed out her mother; and at the fame
time informed me that fhe had no father. I
haraffed her with queltions, for I found fo
many charms in her anfwers.~ Nothing could
equal the pleafure I enjoyed in feeing her,
except that which I received from her con-
' -verfation.+ I afked her to remain with me, and
made her promifes of every kind; but when I .
{poke to her, above all, of carrying her with me
to Europe; where [ faid all the women were
queens, and commanded hordes of flaves; far
‘from fuffering herfelf to be tempted, fhe
rejected all my propofals, and without any
ceremony began to grow peevifh and impa-
tient. A monarch could not have overcome
her refiftance, and the forrow which the felt
from the mere idea of quitting her family and
her horde. I concluded by begging her: at
leaft to bring her fifter to me, telling her that
fhe would have every reafon to be fatished in

her

380 ~ BRAN Eh see
her turn. This fhe promifed to do ; and at the
fame inftant fhe fixed her eyes upon a chair
that {tood not far from me. Having fhewn
me a knife which I had left there by chance,
I prefented it to her, and fhe immediately
gave it to her mother. :
This girl’s whole thoughts were continually
engaged by her drefs, which to her was entirely
new. She touched her arms, her feet, her neck~
lace, and her girdle, and put her hands twenty
times to her head to feel her handkerchief,
which pleafed her much. Having opened my
dreffing-box, I drew from it a mirror, which
I placed before her ; and fhe furveyed herfelf
fome time in it with much attention and com-
plaifance. By her geftures and various atti-
tudes, fhe fufficiently fhewed how much fhe
was fatisfied; I do not fay with her figure, but
with her ornaments, which ftill made the
ftrongeft impreffions on her mind. When
fhe had drefled in the morning, before the
horde fet out to fee me, fhe had rubbed greafe
and tallow over her cheeks, which I ordered
to be cleaned and wafhed; but I could never
perfuade her that this affiftance of art deftroyed.

the charms of nature, which had formed her ©

very pretty. Whatever ingenuity I employed
: in

LE MW.

A FR’ Coe. 381
in my reafoning, and whatever might be the
effe& of her complacency, in reftoring to her
frefh cheeks that delicate bloom of youth fo
frail and fading, fhe was alays attached to
her villanous black greafe with as much ob-
{tinacy as the ladies in Europe are attached —
to their rouge, and to all their paftes, which
are no lefs difgufting, and perhaps much more
pernicious.

My young beauty having begged me to
give her my mirror, | complied with her re-
queft ; and fhe took a wonderful advantage
of this favour, which I had {fo readily granted,
to afk me for every thing that {truck her fancy.
I always fuffered myfelf to be overcome; but I
was at length obliged to refufe her feveral
articles, both on account of their being indif-
penfably neceffary to me, and from a fear that
the might make a dangerous ufe of them. My
knee-buckles had alfo tempted her; for the
ftones with which they were fet had greatly
attracted her eyes; and I fhould have been
very glad to have had it in my power to gra-
tify her once more. How much did I with
upon this occafion for the moft wretched pair
of fteel, to replace this article of luxury, in
other refpects very ufelefs! Unluckily thee

were

382 TRAVELS: LN

were the only pair | had in my pofieffion: I
gave her to underitand that they were abfolute-
ly neceflary to me, and from that moment
fhe never more thought of them. She had
the good fenfe not to be affronted at any
of my refufals; it was fufficient for me to
fay no only once, to make her change her
object.

I found her name difficult to be pronounced,
difagreeable to the ear, and very infignificant
according to my ideas; I therefore gave her
a new one, and called her Nariaz, which, in
the Hottentot language, fignifies a flower. I
begged her to retain this pretty name, which
fuited her in many refpeéts ; and this fhe pro-
mifed to do as long as fhe lived, in remem-

brance of my vifit to her country, and as a
teftimony of my love, for fhe was already no
{tranger to this paffion ; and in her natural and
affeGting language fully fhewed how powertul
the firft impreffion is, and that, in the bofom of
the African defarts, one muft not even attempt
to be happy.

Having ordered a fheep to be killed, and a
large quantity of our hippopotamus to be dref-
fed to regale our guefts, they gave themfelves
up to all the extravagance of joy. Every body

6 ot dauacedis

AFR S¢ ae" 3383
danced; and my Hottentots, like gallant and
polite gentlemen, regaled thefe favages with
their mufic. The moft fkilful performers ©
founded the goura, the joumjoum, and the
rabouquin ; the lucky Jews harp was not for-
gotten ; and this new inftrument produced
the moft lively fenfations in all the company.
Narina, like all other pretty women, who
think nothing impoflible to them, withed to
try it alfo; but, like all other pretty women,
who foon become impatient with their leffon,
fhe difdainfully threw away the in‘trument,
which fhe found deteftable.

The whole of this day was fpent in frolics —
and merriment; and my people diftributed
their ration of brandy, independent of that
which I had ordered to be given them in par-
ticular. I with pleafure obferved that Narina
could not tafte it; and this fobriety redoubled
the efteem I had entertained for her; for I
deteft this liquor, and am aftonifhed that our
women fhould be fond of this moft difguiting
of poifons.

l ordered a quantity of wood neceflary for
making our fires to be collected early, and
this operation was foon performed. The
Gonaquas joined the party, and made ample
provifion for themfelves, as I had permitted

984 TRAVELS. IN

them to remain till the next morning, and had
afigned them a place at fome diftance from
my cainp, where they might pafs the night.

In the evening when the fires were kindled,
I regaled my people with tea and coffee.
Narina feemed to like the tea, but the colour
of the coffee made her conceive an averfion to
that liquor. [ put my hand upon her eyes, and
made her {wallow half a cupful more of it ; but
fhe {till gave the preference to tea. She even
drank of it very often; and this on her part was
a piece ci finefle which I pretended not to per-
ceive,and which afforded me much amufement.
I am perfuaded that fhe did not much relith this
liquor, but fhe made hafte to {wallow it, that fhe
might, in the bottom of the cup, get at a piece _
of fugar-candy, which fhe had feen me throw
into it.

After this frugal repaft, and the divteitline
fcenes it procured me, the dancing recom-
menced ; and towards midnight the need of
repofe put an end to our pleafures.

Having for fome time flept in my waggon
to avoid the night damps, I entrufted the
chief of the Gonaquas with the care of guard-
ing my camp, and I lodged the old man in
my largelt tent.

The reader perhaps expe@ts to fee my fa-

vourite

ARRIOA 385

vourite’ excepted from the law by which I
confined all the horde to certain boundaries,
and has perhaps no faith in my continence,
Narina kept clofe by me, and never thought
of quitting her friend. I fhewed her where
her mother and friends were at fome dif.
Narina then bid me

tance from us, and
good night.

I difpatched two of my people Mie
armed, to pafs the night near thefe Gonaquas,
and to defend them from voracious animals.
When every one had retired to reft, I ordered
that no perfon after that fhould be fuffered .
either to enter or to go out.

I could however fcarcely fleep, for every
thing that had happened fince the arrival of
thefe favages recurred. to my imagination under
the moft whimfical and extraordinary colours,
What I had learned refpeCting the manners and
character of thefe people, compared with the
ridiculous and infipid relations of our ro-
mantic travellers, appeared to me {fo pure, fo
fimple, and fo engaging; my converfations
particularly with Haabas and Narina had in-
terefted me fo much, that I curfed even the
rapid moments which deprived me of thefe

Vou, I. Ge animated

386 TRAVELS! AN

animated fcenes, and J regretted that I could
not prolong their courfe. |

Scarcely had the day begun to appear, when
I awoke, and went to vifit my Gonagquas, who
were all funk in profound fleep, huddled to-
gether under their kroffes*. Narina was with
her mother lying upon a mat, which | had
given her to fecure her from the moifture.
The other feven women, heaped all together,
formed .a very pleafant group; for neither
their heads nor their feet were to be feen, as
they were entirely hid under their covering.
Having faluted them by difcharging my fufee
at their ears, [ faw a number of frightened
countenances ftart up from below their kroffes,
which exhibited a moft comic fcene. Some
of the fleepers however did not awake, which
is not at all furprifing ; for the fleep of the
Hottentots is near akin to a lethargy.

Having left them to recover the ufe of their
fenfes at leifure, I went to traverfe the banks

* Cloaks made of the fkins of different animals, which
the Hottentots all generally ufe, either to clothe them
during the day, or to cover them in the night-time. I
thall have occafion to fpeak of them in a fuller manner
hereafter,

of

ACRE IY @, &. | 3387

of the river, in order to fhoot a few birds be-
fore the heat fhould commence; for the north
wind, which in thefe latitudes performs the
fame office as the fouth in France, feemed to an-
nounce a very fcorching day. At ten o’clock
I returned with a few birds, and among
others a red long-tailed fly-catcher, which I
confidered, and very juftly, as a happy dif-
covery. ‘This charming animal, the predomi-
nant colour of which is indeed a moft beau-
tiful red, has a ftill more beautiful tuft on its
head, and two very long feathers in its tail,
which give it an air of dignity that the fe-
male does not fhare with it. This advantage,
however, the male does not enjoy but in the
breeding feafon, which continues three months :
after that period thefe two feathers drop of
themfelves, and nothing then diftinguithes
the male from the female but a browner tint.
We mutt not confound this {pecies of bird
with one of the fame kind defcribed by Brif-
fon and Buffon, under the name of the long-
tailed crefted fly-catcher of the Cape of Good
Hope; for this bird is not found at the Cape :
it belongs to India, and particularly to the
ifland of Ceylon, and differs much from mine.
The marks by which they are diftinguifhed
| Ges will

438 TR AMV Btise oN

will be related in my ornithology. I {hall
only here affure the reader that the two fly-
catchers defcribed under: that name, one of
which is red, and the other almoft white, and
which are given as two diftinG {pecies, form ab-
folutely only one; and this-variety in the colour
arifes from the difference of the feafons. One
may be eaiily convinced of the truth of this,
by examining in my colletion one of thefe
birds, which ftill partaking of both ftates
clearly fhews the fucceflive paflage from white
to red.

That which I had killed never asigoelbians
fuch a change; and this diftin@ion alone
ought to make us not confound them, as has
been hitherto done, but to eftablith a new
{pecies. ’

After -depofiting my capture in my tent, I
returned to the camp of my guefts; but I
found there only men; all the women had dif-
appeared: and I learned that they were gone
to bathe. Being curious to-fee this ceremony,
I repaired to the river ; and I was not long in
difcovering them, for their voices and laughter
foon conducted me tothe fpot. Having glided
foitly along between the trees and buthes, I
got cloie to the bank without being perceived,

and

APRIU’® 389
and found them all fwimming, {porting in
the water, and diving with wonderful dexterity.
When I had furveyed thefe female bathers at
my leifure, I foon put an end to their {port by
firing my fufee; upon which they all plunged
down in the water, leaving nothing above the
furface but the points of their nofes. I then
feated myfelf on their clothes which were
heaped together, where I took a pleafure in
jeering them; and, fhewing them their {mall
aprons one after the other, invited them to
come for them. Narina’s mother laughed
heartily at the embarraffment of her com-
panions; for fhe had quitted the water be-
fore the reft, and was repofing herfelf under
a tree, till they fhould join her. Having en-
treated me in vain a long time to depart, only
one refource was left them, which they em-
ployed with a fhrewdnefs that aftonifhed me.
Narina’s mother well knowing the afcendancy
that her beautiful daughter had over me, threw
her apron and krofs to her; the latter then
dreffing herfelf in the water, foon after came
towards me, with the moft fimple and tender
air, to beg that I would retire for a few mo-
ments, in order that thefe women might have
time to put on their veftments. I at firft pre-

tended

390 TRAVELS IN

tended to be a little obftinate; but Narina,
taking me by the hand, dragged me along
with her, till, being out of fight, fhe could call
out to her companions that they might quit
the water, and drefs.

Narina becoming more and more familiar,
continued to walk with me towards my tent,
{porting as-freely with me as fhe would have
done with her brother, her parents, or her -
companions. She joked with me after her
own manner, and teazed me, fometimes ftrug-
gling to difengage herfelf from my arms, |
and fometimes, to avoid me, jumping over
bufhes, ravines, and the broadeft ditches. Be-
ing then young and vigorous, long inured to
the moft fatiguing labours, and a life a thou- 3
fand times harder than that of thefe favages
themfelves, I could have defied an European
Hercules: but whether it was cuftom, or fome
remains of gallantry, that made me employ
only the half of my ftrength againit the young
Narina, or that in reality fhe fhewed more
addrefs, and was more agile in her motions,
fhe compelled me to defift, and I yielded under
her efforts ; but, above all, when fhe efcaped
from me, and got to a little diftance, fhe out-
{tripped me in the courfe, and was foon

beyond |

A FR E @ A, 391
beyond my reach. With what velocity did
fhe run along the highways, and by a thou-
{and windings return to conceal herfelf at the
edge of a wood, and to furprife me as I
pafled! ke
As I obferved birds of various kinds flying
around in the foreft, I could not help entering
it, as this was the only method I could find of
allaying the impetucfity of my young favage.
Nothing could equal the pleafure fhe expe-
rienced on feeing me fire my fufee, which I
did often, and | killed about a fcore of birds.
I had not, carried any of my dogs along with
me; but Narina, who fupplied their place,
caught in an admirable manner thofe which
were only wounded. By this time I had loft
fight of my camp, and had advanced rather
too far. The fporting and play of my young
companion at length bewildered me entirely ;
and fhe did not put an end to her romping
until fhe had given me an excellent leffon,
and made the beft return poffible to the trick
I had played her a little before, on the banks ©
of the river Groot-Vis. Having fallen in
with this river, which I knew would diredt
me to my camp, I fired at a heron, and killed
it. Falling near the bank, and being carried

4 away

392 TRAVELS AN

away by the current, I wasin danger of lofing
it; and this difappointment would have given
me the greater uneafinefs, as one of the fame
fpecies, which I procured with much diffi-
culty, had one day, by the negligence of fome
of my people, been entirely {poilt in my tent.
{ theretore plunged into the river, which
reached up to my middle; but. getting en-
tangled in the herbs which grew on its banks,.
and having not yet forgot the accident at,
Jueur-Boom, I was unwilling to advance —

farther. Narina, who perceived my embar-
rafiment, and the awkward fituation into which’
I had got by running after my bird, was much
aftonifhed that I fhould be afraid of trufting
myfelf to the current. In an inftant therefore
fhe threw herfelf into the water, and began to
fwim, whilft I returned to the bank; but the
cruel creature who had feized my bird, held it
up in her hand, and, calling out to me, defired
me to come and fetch it. After a thoufand
prayers, and the moft earneft entreaties, inftead.
of complying with my requeft, fhe made for
the other bank, with the velocity of an arrow,
where fhe ridiculed me at her eafe, and laughed
at me for my timidity. I have already faid
that I could not {wim ; and if ever there was a
7 conjuncture

ra)

a?

AFRICA! 393
éonjundtire in which Thad occafion to complain,
this without doubt was a mortifying one, and
which ought to have incited me in the ftrongeft
_manner to fupply this inexcufable deficiency in
my education. When I fotind that I could have
no influence over my pretty romp, I refolved
to fit down on the banks of the river, and to
wait for her with patience. She herfelf foon
grew tired of her {port; and, throwing herfelf
into the river again, {wam over, after fhewing
her kill, by diving feveral times in her paf-
fage. While fhe was in the water I more
than once prefented my fufee, as if about to
take aim at her; but nothing that I could do
deemed to terrify her. On this account fhe
was ftill more playful atid obftinate in refufing
me my heron; We both however at length |
purfued our route very peaceably together;
and returned towards my tent.

The reft of the Gonaqua women, whom we
had left lower down on the banks of the river,
having rejoined us, I could plainly read fome
remains of fhame in their countenances and
looks. I myfelf ought indeed to have blufhed,
for wounding their delicacy in fo cruel a man-
ner. On this occafion I had feen natural mo-
defty, which is very different from that referve

Vou, I. Dd which

394 TRAV ELS AN
which women often affume through pride, and —
which is only an enticing ftratagem, more
dangerous than icandal reduced to the com-

pleteft embarraf{ment. |
After [had made my favages dine, I or-
dered the table to be brought upon which f{
difleted animals, and which I employed only
for that purpofe. This, with two chairs, formed
all the furniture of my tent. I then began to
flay the birds I had killed in the morning. This
operation furprifed them much; they looked
at me with aftonifhment, and could not con-
ceive why I had deprived birds of their lives
in order to ftrip them, and immediately after
to reftore them to their former figure. I did
not however wafte my time in boafting to
them of the cabinets and colleGtions of Eu-
rope, or in telling them how much they were
efteemed. They undoubtedly might have
wondered that I fhould have come fo far with
no other defign than that of procuring ani-
mals: and the queftion of Narina, who afked
me if there were no birds in my own country,
appeared to me extremely iimple and natural.
I thought that no differtation on this fubject
with favages, who would not have compre-
hended what I faid, was equal to the pleafure
of

~w AE RICA. 395
of preparing a king’s-fifher, which I gave to
my inquilitive beauty.

Haabas prevailed upon me to move my
camp, in order that I might ered it nearer his
horde, where he told me I fhould find a great
variety of birds of every kind. Having given
me to underftand that we were only about two
leagues diftant from it, I promifed that I would
go thither in the courfe of a few days.

As he was preparing to depart, I regaled
him and all his people with a dinner, and
gave him a {mall provifion of tobacco for him-
felf, which afforded him much pleafure. Na-
rina promifed to bring me milk, and to return
in a fhort time with her fifter. At length,
highly fatisfied with each other, after a thou-
fand farewels, thefe good people left me, ac-
companied by fome of my Hottentots, whom
{ had commiffioned to reconnoitre the way,
and to procure me a few fheep by barter.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

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