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TRAVELS

THROUCH THE

MIDDLE SETTLEMENTS

I N

NORTH AMERICA,

IN THE YEARS I 7 5 9 AND 1 7 6 O ;
WITH

OBSERVATIONS UPON THE STATE OF THE COLONIES.

By the Rev. ANDREW BURNABY, d. d. \

ARCHDEACON OF LEICESTER AND HCAR OF GREENWICH,

EDITION THE THIRD;

REVISED, CORRECTED, AND GREATLY ENLARGED, BY THE AUTHOR.

LONDON
PRINTED FOR T. PAYNE, AT THE MEWS -GATE.

179:

TRAVELS

THROUGH THE

MIDDLE SETTLEMENTS
NORTH AMERICA,

IN THE YEARS I 7 5 9 AND I760;

WITH
OBSERVATIONS UPON THE STATE OF THE COLONIES.

By the Rev. ANDREW BURNABY, d. d.

ARCHDEACON OF LEICESTER AND HCAR OF GREENWICH,

EDITION THE THIRD;

REVISED, CORRECTED, AND GREATLY ENLARGED, BY THE AUTHOR,

LONDON
PRINTED FOR T. PAYNE, AT THE MEWS-GATE,

1793.

^\lV

"2. 2- '

0

-o

s

..,.

SIR JOHN DICK, Bart.

&c. &c. &c.

THIS THIRD EDITION OF

TRAVELS THROUGH THE MIDDLE SETTLEMENTS
IN NORTH AMERICA,

is,
IN TESTIMONY OF THE SINCEREST AFFECTION AND GRATITUDE,

MOST RESTECTFULLY INSCRIBED,

BY HIS EVER FAITHFUL

AND OBLIGED HUMBLE SERVANT,

ANDREW BURNABY,

Greenwich, Auguft 37, 1798,

CONTENTS.

Page

Preface to the Third Edition -------- vii

Introduction - ----------- xiii

Travels -------------- i

Appendixes ; viz.

N° i. Catalogue of Trees, Plants, Birds, Fifties, Ani-
mals, ccc. mentioned in the Courfe of this Work j with
their common Names, and the Names given them by
Catefby and Linnaeus _________ 125

N° 2. Tables and Statements relating to the commercial
Situation of the United States, both before and fmce
the American War ---------- 130

N° 3. Anecdotes of the Indians --___-_ 153

N° 4. of feveral Branches of the Fairfax

Family, now domiciliated in Virginia - - - - - 159

N° 5. Diary of the Weather -------- 173

ERRATA.

Page 153. line 2. far page 42 line 24, rampage 24 line 12.

164. laft line of the fiift column of the Note, for High read flight.

165. line 9. for favouable read favourable.

PREFACE

THIRD EDITION.

rTpHE two former Editions of thcfe Travels were
"*■ publifhed, one immediately after the other, at a
moment, when events of the greater!: magnitude, and
importance to this country, were depending ; and when
the minds of men were extremely agitated and alarmed
for the fate of the Britifh Empire. A rupture between
Great Britain and her American Colonies was ferioufly
apprehended : and as men forefaw, or at leaft fancied
they forefaw, very calamitous confequences ari{ing from
fo difaftrous an event, it was generally wimed that the
evil might, if poflible, be prevented ; and a reconcilia-
tion happily effected, before matters were carried to
extremity. The Author, flattered by his friends, and
perhaps a little alio by vanity, prefumed to hope, that
the publication of his tour through the Middle Settle-
ments in North America might, in fome degree, conduce
to this defirable end : and as the meafures to be adopted
by Government were at that time under the deliberation

viii PREFACE.

of Parliament, it was thought expedient to fubmit it to
the Public, before any refolutions were formed that might
eventually be decifive of the fate of the Britim Empire.
There was not time, therefore, to publifh the Work in
fo full and correct a manner, as the materials in the
Author's pofleffion would otherwife have enabled him
to do. He confined himfelf to general, and what he
judged leading, circumftances ; and postponed the infer-
tion of others to more favourable and tranquil times.
The two former Editions, however, being now intirely
out of print, he deems it expedient to publi(h a third
Edition, revifed, corrected, and greatly enlarged by the
infertion of new matter ; particularly by feveral ftatiftical
tables referring to the Commerce of America ; and fome
authentic Memoirs of Thomas late Lord Fairfax, and
of the feveral branches cf that noble houfe now domi-
ciliated in Virginia ; both of which have been derived
from the beft and moft unqueftionable authority. — The
Work for thefe reafons, and from its being almoft the
only account of the Middle Settlements, during the pe-
riod of their happiefl and moft flourifning (late, may
poffibly, notwithftanding the feparation that has fince
taken place, be ftill interefting ; at leaft to individuals :
and the Author offers the prefent Edition to the Public,
with the fame affurance as he did the former ones ; viz.
that he believes the contents to be ftrictly and literally true.
If, however, fome flight errors may accidentally and
§ -unde-

PREFACE. he

undesignedly have been committed, and any one" will
have the goodnefs to point them out, the Author will
think himfelf highly obliged by the information, and
will avail himfelf of the firft opportunity to acknow-
ledge and correct them.

The aftonifhing events that have taken place iince
the publication of the two former Editions, will probably
expofe the Author's opinion concerning the termination
and final ifTue of the American contefb to animadverfion;
but in vindication of himfelf, he muft be permitted to
obferve, —

That it was not within the fphere of calculation to
fuppofe,

i ft. That the Britifh miniftry would perfift in re-
quiring unconditional fubmiflion from the colonies, till
it was too late to recede ; and the opportunity was loft,
and for ever gone by :

2dly. That when coercive meafures had been refolved
upon, they would have been inforced in fo ruinous and
fo ineffectual a manner :

3dly. That, during the war, any member in oppoii-
tion would have declared publicly, that he ccrrefponded

b with,

x PREFACE.

with, and wifhed fuccefs to, the Americans, then in arms
againft the king:

Still lefs was it within the iphere of calculation to
fuppofe,

That France, though it might be expected that me
would fo far interfere in the conteft as to endeavour to
diftrefs and embarrafs this country, would fend troops to
America, to the irreparable ruin of her own finances, in
order to make the Americans free and independent
dates :

Leaft of all was it within the fphere of calculation to
fuppofe.

That Spain would join in a plan inevitably leading,
though by flow and imperceptible fteps, to the final lofs
of all her rich poffeilions in South America.

There were indeed enlightened minds both in France
and in Spain, who forefaw what has fince happened, and
who deprecated any interference in the difpute, and re-
commended the obfervance of a ftric"t. neutrality : And
the unfortunate Lewis the fixteenth himfelf is faid to
have fhewn the greateft repugnance to the treaty with
the Americans ; and to have declared in the bitternefs of
forrow, when he figned it, that he had figned the war-
rant for his own ruin and deftructiom

In

PREFACE. xi

In Auguft 1792, the Author was at Cologne; and
there accidentally falling in with the Duke of Bourbon,
and feveral French noblemen of his fuite, the converfa-
tion naturally turned upon the fituation and affairs of
France ; and the author expreffing his furprife at the
impolicy of the French mimftry in engaging fo deeply
in the American war, and deducing from thence the
prefent miferies of France, one of the courtiers with
great emotion exclaimed, — " Ah monfieur, e'eft bien
" vrai ; nous avons mal calcule!" — But the die is cafe,
and it is too late to moralize.

The reader will doubtlefs be furprifed, when the Au-
thor declares, that he has not altered his fentiments fince
the year 1775, in regard to the American war and its
confequences. He frill thinks, that the feparation might,
in the iirfl inftance, have been prevented : that coercive
meafures, when refolved upon, might have been in-
forced, comparatively fpeaking, without bloodmed; and
with great probability of fuccefs : that the prefent union
of the American ftates will not be permanent or lafl for
any confiderable length of time: that that extenflve
country mud neceffarily be divided into feparate dates
and kingdoms : and that America will never, at lead for
many ages, become formidable to Europe; or acquire,
what has been fo frequently predicted, universal empire.

b 2 The

xii PREFACE.

The Author thinks he could aflign plaufible reafons at
leaft for thefe various opinions ; but it is better that they
fhould be configned to oblivion. The wife Difpofer of
events has decreed, that America mall be independent of
Great Britain: that fhe is fo, may ultimately perhaps be
advantageous to both countries ; at leaft it will be owing
to excefs of folly if it be highly difadvantageous to either.
Let us fupplicate Heaven to unite them in permanent
friendfhip and affeclion; and to preferve inviolate that
alliance, that harmony and connexion, which religion,
moral habits, language, intereft, origin, and innumerable
other confiderations, can never ceafe to point out and
recommend to them.

INTRODUCTION.

A Few days before I embarked for America, being in
a coffee-houfe with fome friends, and difcourilng of
things relative to that country, an elderly gentleman ad-
vancing towards the box where we were fitting, addreiled
himfelf to me in the following manner : " Sir," faid he,
" you are young, and juft entering into the world ; I
" am old, and upon the point of leaving it : allow me
ct therefore to give you one piece of advice, which is the
" refult of experience ; and which may poflibly, fome
<c time or other, be of ufe to you. You are going to a
<c country where every thing will appear new and won-
c< derful to you ; but it will appear fo only for a while ;
" for the novelty of it will daily wear off; and in time
11 it will grow quite familiar to you. Let me, there-
" fore, recommend to you to note in your pocket-book
c< every circumftance that may make an impreflion upon
" you ; for be allured, fir, though it may afterward ap-
i( pear familiar and uninterelting to yourfelf, it will not
ct appear fo to your friends, who have never vifited that
" country, for they will be entertained by it."

The

xiv INTRODUCTION.

The following obfervations were the refult of this
advice : they were written upon the feveral fpots to
which they refer ; and were intended for no other pur-
pofe, than that of ferving as memorandums. They ap-
peared, by the time I returned to Europe, according
to the gentleman's prediction, fo very familiar to me, that
I fcarceiy thought them deferving of the perufal of my
friends. Some of thefe, however, were fo obliging as to
beftow upon them that trouble ; and it is by their ad-
vice, and the confideration of the prefent critical fitua-
tion of affairs, that I now fubmit them to the judgment
of the public. — Whatever may be their merit, which I
fear is but fmall, I can afTure the reader of one thing,
I believe they are generally true. They are the fruit of
the mod impartial inquiries, and bed intelligence, that I
was able to procure in the different colonics which I
vifited. If I have been led into any error, or have mif-
reprefented any thing, it has been undesignedly : a fpirit
of party is univerfally prevalent in America, and it is not
always an eafy matter to arrive at the knowledge of
truth : but I believe, in general, I have been pretty fuc-
cefsful. I converfed indifcriminately with perfons of all
parties ; and endeavoured, by allowing for prejudices
and collating their different accounts, to get at the true
one. If I have any doubt myfelf about any particular
part of the following obfervations (and it is one in which
I wiih. I may be found to have been mifinformed), it is
3 that

INTRODUCTION.

that which relates to the chara&er of the Rhode-Ifland-
ers. I was exceedingly ill at that place, and had not the
fame opportunity of procuring information as elfewhere.
I converfed with but few gentlemen, and they were prin-
cipally of one party ; but they were gentlemen of fuch
univerfal good character, that I could not but rely in fome
meafure on the accounts with which they favoured me.
Some allowance, however, I did make for prejudice; and
I am defirous that the reader fhould make a ftill larger
one ; indeed, I fhould be happy to ftand corrected in
regard to what I have faid of that people, as no one can
have lefs pleafure in fpeaking unfavourably of mankind
than myfelf.

I have ftudioufly avoided all technical or fcientific
terms ; fuch to the informed reader are unneceflary, to
the uninformed one they are unintelligible and perplex-
ing : in relations of this kind, they have always an ap-
pearance of affectation and pedantry.

For the moil valuable part of the following collection,
I mean the Diary * of the Weather, I am intirely in-
debted to my efteerned friend, Francis Fauquier, efq. fon
of the late worthy lieutenant-governor of Virginia ; who
very obligingly tranfmitted it to me from Williamfburgj

• See Appendix, N° 5.

while

xvl INTRODUCTION.

while I refided, as chaplain to the Britim factory, at
Leghorn ; and has allowed me to make the ufe of it
which I have here done.

The prefent unhappy differences fubiiffing amongil
us, with regard to America, will, I am fenfible, expofe
the publication of this account to much cenfure and cri-
ticifm ; but I can truly aver, that I have been led to
it by no party motive whatfoever. My firft attachment,
as it is natural, is to my native country ; my next is to
America ; and fuch is my affection for both, that I hope
nothing will ever happen to diffolve that union, which
is neceffary to their common happinefs. Let every
Englishman and American, but for a moment or two,
fubftitute themfelves in each other's place, and, I think,
a mode of reconciliation will foon take effect. — Every
American will then perceive the reafonablenefs, of ac-
knowledging the Supremacy of the Britifh legislature ;
and every Englifhman, perhaps, the hardfhip of being
taxed where there is no reprefentation, or affent.

There is fcarcely any fuch thing, I believe, as a per-
fect government -3 and folecifms are to be found in all.
The prefent difputes are feemingly the refult of one. —
Nothing can be more undeniable than the fupremacy of
parliament over the moil diftant branches of the Britim,
empire : fcr although the king being efleemed, in the

eye

INTRODUCTION. xvii

eye of the law, the original proprietor of all the lands
in the kingdom ; all lands, upon defect of heirs to fuc-
ceed to an inheritance, efcheat to the king ; and all new
difcovered lands veft in him : yet in neither cafe can he
exempt them from the jurifdidtion of the legiflature of
the kingdom.

He may grant them, under leafes or charters, to in-
dividuals or companies ; with liberty of making rules
and regulations for the internal government and improve-
ment of them ; but fuch regulations muft ever be con-
iiftent with the laws of the kingdom, and fubject to their
controul.

On the other hand, I am extremely dubious, whether
it be confiftent with the general principles of liberty
(with thofe of the Britilh conftitution I think it is not)
to tax where there is no reprefentation : the arguments
hitherto adduced from Manchefter and Birmingham, and
other great towns, not having reprefentatives, are foreign
to the fubjedfc ; at leaft they are by no means equal to
it; — for every inhabitant, poiTefTed of forty millings
freehold, has a vote in the election of members for the
county : but it is not the perfons, but the property of
men that is taxed, and there is not a foot of property in
this kingdom, that is not reprefented.

It

xviii INTRODUCTION.

It appears then, that certain principles exift in the
Briuih. conftitution, which militate with each other; the
reafon of their doing fo is evident ; it was never fuppofed
that they would extend beyond the limits of Great Bri-
tain, or affect fo diftant a country as America. It is
much to be wifhed, therefore, that fome expedient could
be thought of to reconcile them.

The conduct of the feveral adminiftrations, that have
had the direction of the affairs of this kingdom, has been
reciprocally arraigned ; but, I think, without reafon ; for,
all things confidered, an impartial and difpaffionare mind
will find many excufes to alledge in j unification of each,
— The feweft, I am afraid, are to be pleaded in favour
of the Americans ; for they fettled in America under
charters, which exprefsly referved to the Britifh Parlia-
ment the authority, whether confident or not confident,
now afferted. Although, therefore, they had a right to
make humble reprefentations to his majefiy in parlia-
ment, and to mew the impropriety and inconvenience of
inforcing fuch principles, yet they had certainly no right
to oppofe them.

Expedients may ftill be found, it is to be hoped how-
ever, to conciliate the prefent unhappy differences, and
rcflore harmony again between Great Britain and her co-
lonies; but whatever meafures may be adopted by parlia-
ment,

INTRODUCTION. six

ment, it is the duty and interefl of America to fubmit. —
But it is impertinent to enter any farther into the difcuf-
fion of a fubject, which is at this time under the de-
liberation of the fupreme council of the nation. I will,
therefore, conclude with a fincere prayer, that whatever
meafures may be adopted, they may be different in their
iffue, from what the fears of men generally lead them to
preconceive ; and that, if they be coercive ones, they may
be inforced, which, I am perfuaded, is practicable, with-
out the effufion of blood : if lenient ones, which are pre-
ferable, and which I think equally practicable, conceded
without any lofs or diminution of the dignity or intereft
of this kingdom.

Greenwich,
Jan. 23d, 1775.

TRAVELS

THROUGH THE

MIDDLE SETTLEMENTS

NORTH AMERICA,

ON Friday the 27th of April 1759, I embarked, in
company with feveral North American gentlemen,
on board the Difpatch, captain Necks, for Virginia ; and
the next day we fet fail from Spithead, under convoy of
his majefty's fhip the Lynn, captain Sterling, commander,
with thirty-three fail of trading vefTels. We came to
an anchor in the evening in Yarmouth Road, and the
next day failed with a frefh eafterly wind through the
Needles.

April 30. We patted by the Lizard, and in the evening
difcovered a fail, which proved to be an Englifh Hoop
laden with corn. She had been taken by a French pri-
vateer, and was fteering for France : there were three
Frenchmen and one Englifhman on board. The com-
modore fent fome hands to her, with orders to carry her
to Penzance.

B May

2 TRAVELS THROUGH

May i. Thick, hazy weather with a fair wind. A
large fhip pafTed through the fleet about four o'clock in
the afternoon : and in the evening another veffel bore
down upon the fternmoft mips, and fpoke with them.

May 2. Fair, pleafant weather. The next day we
found by our reckoning that we had made a hundred
leagues from the Land's End.

May 4. Strong, violent gales at north-and-by-weft,.
In the evening the Molly, captain Chew, had her main-
top-maft carried away, and hoifted a fignal of diftrefs.

May 5. From this time to the 14th, nothing re-
markable happened : the wind was feldom fair; but the
weather being moderate, we made frequent vifits, and
pafTed our time very agreeably.

May 14. Captain Necks fell ill of a fever, and con-
tinued indifpofed feveral days : he began to mend about
the 17th.

May 19. In the afternoon, a fudden and violent
fquall from the north-weft obliged us to lye-to under
our reefed main-fail : it continued to increafe, and blew
a ftorm for about thirty-fix hours, when it began to mo-
derate.

May 21. We made fail in the afternoon, with four
fhips in company ; and the next day in the evening were
joined by eighteen more. From that time to the 28th,
nothing remarkable happened : we had generally plea-
fant weather, but adverfe winds. We frequently vifited;
4 and

NORTH AMERICA. 3

and were much entertained with feeing grampufes, tur-
tles, bonetas, porpoifes, flying and other full, common
in the Atlantic *.

May 28. We difcovered a large fail; fhe directed her
courfe towards the eaft. We fuppofed her to be an
Englifli man of war going exprefs. She carried three
top-gallant fails.

May 31. We fpoke with a floop bound from Antigua
to London. She acquainted the commodore with the
agreeable news of his majefty's forces at Guadaloupe
having reduced that whole ifland under fubjedt-ion to
the Britifh government. The wind ftill continued un-
favourable.

June 5. We fpoke with a fnow from Carolina, which
informed the commodore, that a French frigate was
cruidng off the capes of Virginia. From that time to
the nth, we had nothing remarkable. The wind was
generally from weft to north- weft, and there were fre-
quent fqualls with lightning. We faw feveral bonetas,
grampufes, albicores, and flih of different kinds.

June n. The water appeared difcoloured ; and we
concluded that we were upon the Banks of Newfound-
land : we caft the lead, but found no ground. The wea-
ther was thick and hazy. Nothing remarkable happened
from this time to the 3d of July : we had pleafant wea-

* See Appendix, N° i.

B 2 ther,

4 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

ther, though now and then fqualls with lightning. We
fell in with feveral currents and had variable winds.

July 3. We had fine weather, with a gentle breeze at
N. W. We were now, according to the commodore's
reckoning (which we afterward found to be true) about
iixty leagues from land. The air was richly fcented with
the fragrance of the pine-trees.

July 4. We faw a great many floops, from whence
we imagined that we were near the coaft. The wind
was at eaft-by-north.

July 5. About fix in the morning we caught fome
green fifh : upon this we founded, and found eighteen
fathom water. At ten we difcovered land, which proved
to be Cape Charles ; and about three hours afterward
failed through the capes into Chefapeak Bay. The com-
modore took his leave to go upon a cruife ; and at eight
in the evening we came to an anchor in York river, after
a tedious and difagreeable voyage of almoft ten weeks.

The next morning, having hired a chaife at York, a
fmall inconfiderable town, I went to Williamfburg,
about twelve miles diftant. The road is exceedingly
pleafant, through fome of the fineft tobacco plantations *

in

* The tobacco growing upon York Of the growth of one plantation, didin-

river, is efteemed fuperior to any other guifhed from the reft, the tobacco is in fuch

in North America ; particularly that high eftimation, that colonel Diggs puts

which is railed upon the plantations be- upon every hogfnead in which it i« packed,

longing to colonel Edward Digg?, which the initial? of his name ; and it is from

is (aid to have a flavour excelling all others, thence called the E. D. tobacco, and fells

for

WILLIAMSBURG. VIRGINIA. 5

in North-America, with a beautiful view of the river
and woods of great extent.

Williamfburg is the capital of Virginia : it is iituated
between two creeks ; one falling into James, the other
into York river ; and is built nearly due eaft and weft.
The diftance of each landing-place is fomething more
than a mile from the town ; which, with the difadvan-
tage of not being able to bring up large vefTcls, is the
reafon of its not having increafed fo faft as might have
been expected. It confifts of about two hundred houfes,
does not contain more than one thoufand fouls, whites
and negroes ; and is far from being a place of any con-
fequence. It is regularly laid out in parallel ftreets, in-
terfered bv others at right angles ; has a handfome
fquare in the center, through which runs the principal

for a propnrtronab'y higher pr'rce. S°ne in^ him that his nifpedtor or agent, had

time ago, colonel DL ; having a tract of b_-en guilty of fome great overfight ors,

land, fee.ningly of th. feme quality, a. id error, as the tobacco contained in certain

under the fame expofure and afpe£t as the cades, which he fpecified, though marked

plantation producing the E. D. tobacco, with E. D. was of a different and very in-

from which it was feparated only by a ferior quality to that commodity j and that

fmall rill of water, he directed it to be if the fame fault fhoald be again committed,

planted; raid as the produce was appa- it would ruin the reputation and fale of the

rently fimilar in quality, eo'our, flavour, E D. tobacco. It is to be obferved, that

and every other particular, he thought the foil or mould had been carefully ana-

himfelf warranted to delineate E. D. upon lifed and examined previous to its being

the hog (heads in which it was packed. planted : and that not the fmaliefr difference

Accordingly, it was fent to market with could be perceived between that of the 'Id

this recommendatory mark or token. But and new p'antation. The experiment, it

fome time after, he received a letter fro n will eafilybe believed, was not repeated.

his Ldor or merchant in London, inform-

ftreet,

6 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

itreet, one of the moil fpacious in North America, three
quarters of a mile in length, and above a hundred feet
wide. At the oppofite ends of this ftreet are two public
buildings, the college and the capitol : and although the
houfes are of wood, covered with fhingles *, and but in-
differently built, the whole makes a handfome appear-
ance. There are few public edifices that deferve to be
taken notice of ; thofe, which I have mentioned, are the
principal ; and they are far from being magnificent.
The governor's palace is tolerably good, one of the beft
upon the continent; but the church, the prifon, and
the other buildings, are all of them extremely indifferent.
The flreets are not paved, and are confequently very
dufty, the foil hereabout confining chiefly of fand : how-
ever, the fituation of Williamfburg has one advantage,
which few or no places in thefe lower parts have ; that
of being free from mofquitoes. Upon the whole, it is
an agreeable refidence; there are ten or twelve gentle-
men's families conftantly refiding in it, befides mer-
chants and tradefmen : and at the times of the aflem-
blies, and general courts, it is crowded with the gentry
of the country : on thofe occafions there are balls and
other amufements ; but as foon as the bufinefs is finifhed,
they return to their plantations ; and the town is in a
manner deferted f.

* Thefe are formed in the fliape of tiles, vernment has been removed to Richmond,

and are generally made of white cedar or of a town fituated juft below the falls of James

c\ prefs. river.

i Since the revolution, the feat of go-

The

VIRGINIA. 7

The fituation of Virginia (according to Evans's map) is
between the 36th and 40th degree of north lat. and about
76 degrees weft long, from London*. It is bounded on
the north by the river Potowmac, on the eaft by the At-
lantic Ocean, by Carolina on the fouth, and, to include
only what is inhabited, by the great Alleghenny on the
weft.

The climate is extremely fine, though fubject to vio-
lent heats in the fummer : Farenheit's thermometer being
generally for three months from 85 to 95 degrees high.
The other feafons, however, make ample amends for this
inconvenience : for the autumns and fprings are delight-
ful; and the winters are fo mild and ferene (though there
are now and then exceflively cold days) as fcarcely to
require a fire. The only complaint that a perfon can
reafonably make, is, of the very fudden changes to which
the weather is liable ; for this being intirely regulated by
the winds, is exceedingly variable. Southerly winds are
productive of heat, northerly of cold, and eafterlv of
rain ; whence it is no uncommon thing for the thermo-
meter to fall many degrees in a very few hours ; and,
after a warm day, to have fuch fevere cold, as to freeze

* Mr. Ebeling, of Hamburgh, in a note is miftaken, for the lateft and bed maps

to the German tranflation of this work, generally agree with Air. Evans in regard

fays, "Virginia is fituated between 37 and to the fituation he has given to this coun-

" 40 degrees of north latitude, and ex- try ; at ieaft, they approximate nearer to

" tends from 77 to 81 degrees weft longi- the account here given than to that of

"- tude from London ;" but I believe he Mr. Ebeling.

oveir

S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

over a river a mile broad in one night's time *. In Turn-
mer there are frequent and violent gufts, with thunder
and lightning ; but as the country is very thinly inha-
bited, and moft of the gentry have electrical rods to their
houfes, they are not attended with many fatal accidents.
Now and then, indeed, fome of the negroes lofe their
lives ; and it is not uncommon in the woods, to fee trees
torn and riven to pieces by their fury and violence. A
remarkable circumftance happened fome years ago at
York, which is well attefted : a perfon {landing at his
door during a thunder guft, was unfortunately killed ;
there was an intermediate tree at fome diftance, which
was ftruck at the fame time ; and when they came to
examine the body, they found the tree delineated upon
it' in miniature. Part of the body was livid, but that
which was covered by the tree was of its naturalco-
lour -j-.

I believe no country has more certainly proved the
efficacy of electrical rods, than this : before the difcovery
of them, thefe gufts were frequently productive of melan-
choly confequences ; but now it is rare to hear of fuch

* On the 19th of December, 1759, t I have related this circumftance upon

being upon a vilit to colonel Wafhin^ton, the authority of the honourable John Blair,

at Mount-Vernon, upon the river Potow- Prefident of the Council of Virginia,

mac, where the river is two miles broad, who mentioned it as a well-known fadt :

I WnS greatly furprifed to find it intirely but it appears fo improbable and unphilo-

frozenover in the fpsce of one night, when fophical, that I do not pledge mjfelf for

the preceding day had been mild and tempe- the truth of it.
rate.

inftances.

VIRGINIA. 9

inftances. It is obfervable that no houfe was ever (truck,
where they were fixed : and although it has frequently
happened that the rods themfelves have been melted, or
broken to pieces, and the houfes fcorched or difcoloured
along the fides of them, which manifefted that they had
received the ftroke, but that the quantity of lightning
was too great to be carried off by the conductor, yet
never has any misfortune happened ; fuch a direction
having been given to the lightning, as to prevent any
danger or ill confluence. Thefe cir.cumftances, one
would imagine, fhould induce every perfon to get over
thofe prejudices which many have entertained ; and to
confider the neglect, rather than the ufe, of them as cri-
minal, fince they feem to be means put into our hands
by Providence, for our fafety and protection.

The foil of Virginia is in general good. There are
barrens where the lands produce nothing but pine-trees ;
but taking the whole tract together, it is certainly fertile.
The low grounds upon the rivers and creeks are exceed-
ingly rich, being loam intermingled with fand : and the
higher you go up into the country, towards the moun-
tains, the value of the land increafes ; for it grows more
ftrong, and confifts of a deeper clay.

Virginia, in its natural ftate, produces great quantities
of fruits and medicinal plants, with trees and flowers of
infinitely various kinds. 1 obacco and Indian corn are
the original produce of the country; likewife the pigeon-

c berrv,

ro TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

berry, and rattle- make-root fo efteemed in all ulcerous
and pleuritieal complaints : grapes, fhawberries, hiccory
nuts, mulberries, chefnuts, and feveral other fruits, grow
wild and fpontaneoufly.

Befides trees and flowers of an ordinary nature, the
woods produce myrtles, cedars, cyprefies, fugar-trees, firs
of different forts, and no lefs than feven or eight kinds
of oak ; they are likewife adorned and beautified with
red-flowering maples, faffafras-trees, dog-woods, acacias,
red-buds, fcarlet-flowering chefnuts, fringe-trees, flower-
ing poplars, umbrellas, magnolias, yellow jafamines, cha-
mcedaphnes, pacoons, atamufco-lilies, May-apples, and
innumerable other forts ; fo that one may reafonably af-
fert that no country ever appeared with greater elegance
or beauty *.

Not to notice too the almoft numberlefs creeks and
rivulets which everywhere abound, it is watered by four
large rivers of fuch fafe navigation, and fuch noble and
majeftic appearance, as cannot be exceeded, perhaps, in
the whole known world.

James river, which was formerly called Powhatan,
from its having been the feat of that emperor, is feven
miles broad at the. mouth, navigable to the falls (above
150 miles) for veffels of large burden, and thence to the
mountains for fmall craft and canoes.

* See Appendix, N° 1.

The

VIRGINIA. Ir

The falls are in length about fix or feven miles ; they
confift of innumerable breaks of water, owing to the ob-
ftruftion of the current by an infinite number of rocks,
which are fcattcred ever the bed of the river ; and form
a moft picturefque and beautiful cafcade.

The honourable colonel Byrd has a fmall place called
Belvedere, upon a hill at the lower end of thefe falls, as
romantic and elegant as any thing I have ever feen. It
is fituated very high, and commands a fine profpeel of
the river, which is half a mile broad, forming catarads in
the manner above defcribed ; there are feveral little
iflands fcattered carelefsly about, very rocky, and covered
with trees ; and two or three villages * in view at a fmall
diftance. Over all thefe you difcover a prodigious extent
of wildernefs, and the river winding majeftically along
through the mid ft of it.

York river, for about forty miles, to a place called
Weft Point, is confined in one channel about two miles
broad : it flows in a very direct courfe, making but one
angle, and that an inconsiderable one, during the whole
way. At Weft Point it forks, and divides itfelf into two
branches ; the fouthward called Pamunky ; the north-
ward Mattapony : each of thefe branches, including the
windings and meanders of the river, is navigable feven ty
or eighty miles, and a coniiderable way of this fpace for
large mips.

* Amongft the reft, Richmond, the prefent feat of government.

c 2 The

12 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

The Rappahannoc is navigable to the falls, which are
a mile above Frederic/burg, and about no from the
bay. VefTels of large burden may come up to this
place ; and fmall craft and canoes may be carried up
much higher.

The Potowmac is one of the fined rivers in North
America : it is * ten miles broad at the mouth, navigable
above 200 miles, to Alexandria, for men of war ; and, al-
lowing for a lew carrying places, for canoes above 200
farther, to the very branches of the Ohio. Colonel Bouquet,
a Swifs gentleman in the Royal Americans, came down this
autumn from Fort Cumberland -j~ to bhenando with very
little difficulty ; whence to the great falls, I have been
told, a navigation might eafily be effected : fo that this
river feems to promife to be of as great confequence as any
in North America.

In all thefe rivers the tide flows as far as the falls, and
at Alexandria it rifes between two and three feet. They
difcharge themfelvcs into Chcfapeak Bay, one of the fineft
in the world, which runs a great way up the country into
Maryland ; is from ten to twenty miles broad ; navigable

* The Potowmac, according to Mr. Jcf- with the information, and who, I am per-

ferfon, is only 7 £ miles broad at its mouth, fuaded, did not intentionally miflead me;

and perhaps his account may be founded the ugh it is poluble they might be mi (taken,
upon better authority than my own. I + The difrance from Fort Cumberland

had no opportunity of afcertaining the to Shenando is above 100 miles; from

fadt, and the ftatement which I have made Shenando to the great falls about 60 ; and

refts intirely upon the credibility of thofe from the great falls to Alexandria about 17

Virginian gentlemen, who favoured me or 18.

near

VIRGINIA. M

near a hundred leagues for veflels of almoft any burden ;
and receives into its bofom at leaft twenty great rivers.

Thefe waters are ftored with incredible quantities of
fifli, fuch as meeps~heads, rock-fiih, drums, white pearch,
herrings, oyfters, crabs, and feveral other forts. Sturgeon
and fhad are in fuch prodigious numbers, that one day,
within the fpace of two miles only, fome gentlemen in
canoes, caught above 600 of the former with hooks,
which they let down to the bottom, and drew up at a
venture when they perceived them to rub againft a fifn ;
and of the latter above 5,000 have been caught at one
fingle haul of the feine.

In the mountains there are very rich veins of ore ; fome
mines having been already opened which turn to great
account ; particularly Spotfwood's iron mines upon the
Rappahannoc, out of which they fmelt annually above
fix hundred ton : and one of copper upon the Roanoke,
belonging to colonel Chifwell. This laft mentioned gen-
tleman is alfo going to try for lead upon fome hunting
grounds belonging to the Indians, towards New River,
and the Green Briar ; where, it is Cud, there is fine
ore, and in great plenty, lying above ground. Some coal
mines have alfo been opened upon James river near the
falls, which are likely to anfwer very well.

The forefls abound with plenty of game of various
kinds; hares, turkies, pheafants, woodcocks, and par-
tridges, are in the greatefl abundance. In the marines

are

14 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

are found forufes, a particular fpecies of bird, more ex-
quisitely delicious than the ortolan; fnipes alfo, and
ducks of various kinds. The American mell-drake and
blue-wing exceed all of the duck kind whatfoever ; and
thefe are in prodigious numbers. In the woods there are
variety of birds remarkable both for finging and for
beauty ; of which are the mocking-bird, the red-bird or
nightingale, the blue-bird, the yellow-bird, the hum-
ming-bird *, the Baltimore bird, the fummer-duck, the
turtle, and feveral other forts.

Infects and reptiles are almoft innumerable. The va-
riety of butterflies is not greater than is that of the rich
and vivid colours with which each particular fpecies is
diitinguimed and beautified; and fuch is the number and
appearance of the fire-flies, that on a fummer's evening
the whole air feems to glow and to be enlightened by
them. Several fnakes of this country are harmlefs and
beautiful ; fuch as the black fnake, the wampum-fnake,
the bead- fnake, the garter- fnake, and fome others : but

* The humming-bird is the fmalleff. juices. The motion of their wings is incre-

and mod beautiful of all the feathered race : dibly fwifc, and produces a humming noife,

its colours are green, crimfon, and gold; not unlike that of a large humble bee.

it lives chiefly by fuclion upon the fweets 'I hey are frequently kept in cages, but fel-

and -efTences of flowers ; and nothing can dom live longer than two months. The

"be more curious than to obferve numbers food which is given them, is either honey

-of them in gardens, where there are honey- or fugar, mixed with water. Repeated at-

fuckles or trumpet- flowers, flying from tempts have been made to fend them alive to

flower to flower, putting their {lender bills England, but always without fuccefs.
into every one, and fucking out the fweeteft

the

VIRGINIA. i5

the rattle-fnake and vipers are exceedingly venomous and
deadly. There are two curious fpecies of' frogs here :
one is called the bull-frog, which is prodigiously large,
and makes fo loud a noife, that it may be heard at a great
diftance; the other is a fmall green frog, which iits upon
the boughs of trees, and is found in almoft every garden.

Of quadrupeds there are various kinds ; fquirrels
of four or five different fpecies *, opoffums, racoons,
foxes, beavers, and deer : and in the deferts and unin-
habited parts, wolves, bears, panthers, elks or moofe
deer, buffaloes, mountain-cats, and various other forts.
Such are in general the natural productions of this coun-
try f .

Viewed and confidered as a fettlement, Virginia is far
from being arrived at that perfection of which it is capa-
ble. Not a tenth of the land is yet cultivated : and that
which is cultivated, is far from being fo in the moll ad-
vantageous manner. It produces, however, confiderable
quantities of grain and cattle, and fruit of many kinds.

* Of the feveral fpecies of fquirrels, able fpace. The former are of a very wild
the ground and flying-fquirrels are much nature ; but thefe may be eafily, and are fre-
the fmalleft and moil beautiful. The former quently tamed. — There is a fpecies of pole-
are of a dufky orange hue, ftreaked with cat in this part of America, which is com-
black ; the latter grey or afh-coloured, and monly called a fkunk. This animal, when
elegantly formed. Thefe have a fpreading purfued, or afiailed by its enemy, ejects its
or fan-tail, and two membranes adhering urine ; which emits fuch a fetid and infup-
to their fides ; which, when they fpring portable ftench, as almoft to ftifle and fuf-
or leap from a tree, they expand, and are focate whatever is within the reach of it.
thereby enabled to fly through a confider- f See Appendix, N° I.

§ The

16 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

The Virginian pork is faid to be fuperior in flavour to
any in the world ; but the fheep and horned cattle be-
ing fmall and lean, the meat of them is inferior to that
of Great Britain, or indeed, of moft parts of Europe.
The horfes are fleet and beautiful ; and the gentlemen
of Virginia, who are exceedingly fond of horfe-racing,
have fpared no expence or trouble to improve the breed
of them by importing great numbers from England.

The fruits introduced here from Europe fucceed ex-
tremely well ; particularly peaches, which have a very
fine flavour, and grow in fiich plenty as to ferve to feed
the hogs in the autumn of the year. Their bloffoms in
the fpring make a beautiful appearance throughout the
country.

Virginia is divided into fifty-two counties, and feventy-
feven parifhes, and by act of affembly there ought to be
forty-four towns • ; but one half of thefe have not more
than five houfes ; and the other half are little better than
inconfiderable villages. This is owing to the cheapnefs
of land, and the commodioufnefs of navigation : for every
perfon may with eafe procure a fmall plantation, can fhip
his tobacco at his own door, and live independent.
When the colony mall come to be more thickly feated,
and land grow dear, people will be obliged to follow
trades and manufactures, which will neceffarily make

* Thefe numbers have been fince greatly increafed.

towns

VIRGINIA.

17

towns and large cities ; but this fcems remote, and not
like] v to happen for fome centuries.

The inhabitants are fuppofed to be in number between
two and three hundred thoufand. There are a hundred
and five thoufand tytheables, under which denomination
are included all white males from fixteen to fixty; and
all negroes whatsoever within the fame age: The former
are obliged to ferve in the militia, and amount to forty
thoufand.

The trade of this colony is large and extenfive. To-
bacco is the principal article of it. Of this they export
annually between fifty and fixty thoufand hogfheads, each
hogfhead weighing eight hundred or a thoufand weight :
fome years they export much more *. They fhip alfo for
the Madeiras, the Streights, and the Weft-Indies, feveral
articles, fuch as grain, pork, lumber, and cyder: to Great
Britain, bar-iron, indigo, and a fmall quantity of ginfeng,
though of an inferior quality ; and they clear out one
year with another about -f- ton of (hipping.

Their manufactures are very inconfiderable. They make
a kind of cotton-cloth, with which they clothe themfelves
in common, and call after the name of their country ;
and fome inconfiderable quantities o^ linen, hofe, and
other trifling articles : but nothing to deferve attention.

The government is a royal one: the legifiature confift-

* In the year 1758, it is faid that feventy thoufand hogfheads were exported.
f See Appcncix, N° 2.

D ing

lS TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

ing of a governor appointed by the king ; a council of
twelve perfons, under the fame nomination ; and a houfe
of burgefTes, or reprefentatives, of a hundred and eight
or ten members, elected by the people ; two for each
county, and one for each of the following places, viz. the
College of William and Mary, James-town, Norfolk-
borough, and Williamfburg. Each branch has a negative.
All laws, in order to be permanent, muft have the king's
approbation ; nor may any be enacted, which are repug-
nant to the laws of Great Britain.

The courts of judicature are either county, or general
courts. The county courts are held monthly in each
county, at a place afligned for that purpofe, by the juf-
tices thereof; four of them making a quorum. They are
appointed by the governor, and take cognizance of all
caufes, at common law, or in chancery, within their re-
fpe&ive counties, except criminal ones, punifhable with
lofs of life, or member. This power they are not per-
mitted to exercife except over negroes and flaves, and
then not without a fpecial commiflion from the governor
for each particular purpofe *. The general court is held

twice

* How necefiary it may be that they « by law punifhable by death, or lofs of

fhould have fuch a power, even in this cafe, " member, fhall be committed to the

I will not pretend to fay ; but the law which « county gaol, and the fheriffof the county

transfers it to them feems fo inconfiftent « fhall forthwith certify fuch commitment,

with the natural rights of mankind, that 1 " with the caufe thereof, to the governor,

cannot but in pity to humanity recite it. « or commander in chief, who may iffue a

" Every flave committing any offence, " commiflion of oyer and terminer to fuch

8 " perfons

VIRGINIA.

* *

twice a year at Williamfburg. It confifts of the governor
and council, any five of which make a court. They hear
and determine all caufes whatfoever, ecclefiaftical or
civil, and fit four and twenty days : the firft five of thefc
are for hearing and determining fuits in chancery appeals
from the decrees of the county or inferior courts in chan-
cery ; and writs of fuperfedeas to fuch decrees. The
other days are for trying fuits or profecutions in behalf
of the king ; and all other matters depending in the faid
court : appeals are allowed to the king in council, in
cafes of 500 1. fterling value. The governor has a powrer
of pardoning criminals in all cafes, except of treafon or
murder : and then he can only reprieve till he knows the
king's pleafure.

The eftablifhed religion is that of the church of Eng-
land ; and there are very few Diffenters of any denomi-
nation in this province. There areatprefent between fixty
and feventy clergymen; men in general of fober and ex-
emplary lives. They have each a glebe of two or three
hundred acres of land, a houfe, and a falary eftablifhed

" perfons as he fliai. think fit, which per- " pregnant circumftances as to them fhall

" fons, forthwith after the receipt of fuch " feem convincing, without the Johmnity of

" commiffion, fhall caufe the offender to " a jury., and the offender being found

""be publicly arraigned and tried at the " guilty, fhall pafs fuch judgment upon him

11 court-houfe of the faid county, and take " or her as the law directs for the like

" for evidence the confeffion of the of- " crimes, and on fuch judgment award

" fender, cne oath of one or more credible " execution."

" witnefles, or fuch teftimony of negroes Mercer's Abridgment of the Virginian

" mulattoes, or Indians, bond or free, with Laws, p. 34.2.

d 2 by

2o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

by law of 16,000 weight of tobacco, with an allowance
of 1,700 more for fhrinkage. This is delivered to them
in hogfheads ready packed for exportation, at the raoft
convenient warehoufe. The prefentation of livings is in
the hands of the veftry; which is a (landing body of
twelve members, inverted with the fole power of raifing
levies, fettling the repairs of the church, and regulating
other parochial bufmefs. They were originally elected
by the people of the feveral parimes ; but now fill up va-
cancies themfelves. If the veftry does not prefent to a
living in lefs than twelve months, it lapfes to the go-
vernor. The diocefan is the biLhop of London ; who
has a power of appointing a commiiTary to prefide over,
and convene the clergy on particular occafions ; and to
cenfure, or even fufpcnd them, in cafes of neglect or im-
morality. His falary is ice 1. fterling per annum ; and
he is crencrally of the council, which is of equal emolu-
ment to him *.

An unhappy difagreement has lately arifen between the
clergy and the laity, which, it is to be feared, may be of
ferious confequcnce. The caufe of it was this. To-
bacco being extremely fcarce from a general failure of
the crop, the affembly paffed an act to oblige the clergy
and all public officers to receive their ftipends in money

* The commiflarv is commonly prefi- parifh, which render him about 350 1. a
dent of the college, and has the parifh of year : fo that his annual income is between
Williatnfburg, or fome other lucrative 5 and 600 1.

inftead

VIRGINIA. 21

inftead of tobacco. This the clergy remonftrated againft,
alledging the hardfhip of being obliged to take a fmall
price for their tobacco, when it bore an extravagant one;
feeing they never had any kind of compcnfation allowed,
when it was fo plentiful as to be aimed a drug. They
fent over an agent to England, and the law was re-
pealed. This greatly exafperated the people ; and fuch
is their mutual animofity at this time, that, I fear, it will
not eafily fubfide, or be forgotten.

With regard to the law in queftion, it was certainly a
very hard one ; and I doubt whether, upon principles of
free government, it can be juftified ; or whether the af-
fembly can legally interpofe any farther, than, in cafes of
necefiity, to oblige the clergy to receive their falaries in
money inftead or tobacco, at the current price of to-
bacco. They may, I am perfuaded, in cafes of exigency,
always make, and might then have made, fuch a law,
without any considerable detriment to the colony : for, fup-
pofing the price of tobacco to be, what it was at that time,
about fifty millings currency per hundred, what would
the whole fum be, were the clergy to be paid ad valorem ?
Not 20,ocol. fterling. There are in Virginia, as I ob-
ferved before, about Sixty-five clergymen : each of thefe
is allowed 16,000 weight of tobacco; which, at the
rate of fifty {hillings currency per hundred, amounts to
400 1. ; 400I. multiplied by 65, is equal to 26,000 ;
which, allowing 40 per cent, diicount, the difference of

exchange,,

22 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

exchange, is about 18,571 1. fterling. Now what is this,
fum to fuch a colony as Virginia ? But to this it will be
faid, perhaps, why mould the clergy be gainers in a time
of public diftrefs, when every one elfe is a fufferer ? The
clergy will doubtlefs reply, and why fhould the clergy
be the only fufferers in plentiful feafons, when all but
themfelves are gainers ? However, as on the one hand I
difapprove of the proceedings of the affembly in this af-
fair ; fo, on the other, I cannot approve of the fteps
which were taken by the clergy : that violence of tem-
per ; that difrefpectful behaviour towards the governor ;
that unworthy treatment of their commiffary ; and, to
mention nothing elfe, that confufion of proceeding in the
convention, of which fome, though not the majority, as
has been invidioufly reprefented, were guilty ; thefe
things were furely unbecoming the facred character they
are inverted with ; and the moderation of thofe perfons,
who ought in all things to imitate the conduct of their
divine Matter. If, inftead of flying out in invectives
againfl: the legiflature ; of accusing the governor of hav-
ing given up the caufe of religion by palling the bill ;
when, in fact, had he rejected it, he would never have
been able to have got any fupplies during the courfe of
the war, though ever fo much wanted ; ir, inftead of
charging the commiiTary with want of zeal for having
exhorted them to moderate meafures, they had followed
the prudent councils of that excellent man, and had

acted

VIRGINIA. 23

acted with more temper and moderation, they might, I
am perfuaded, in a very fhort time, have obtained any
redrefs they could reafonably have defired. The people
in general were extremely well affected towards the
clergy, and had exprefTed their regard for them in feveral
inflances ; they were fenfible, moreover, that their fala-
ries were too fcanty to fupport them with dignity, and
there had been fome talk about railing them : had the
clergy therefore, before they applied to England, only
offered a memorial to the affembly, fetting forth that
they thought the act extremely hard upon them, as
their falaries were fmall ; and that they hoped the affem-
bly would take their cafe into confideration, and enable
them to live with that decency which became their cha-
racter; I am perfuaded, from the knowledge which I have
of the people in general, and from repeated conversions
with feveral members of the affembly, that they might
have obtained almoft any thing they could have wifhed ;
if not, they undoubtedly would have had reafon to ap-
peal. But, inftead of this, without applying to the af-
fembly for relief, after the ad was paffed, (for before, in-
deed, fome of them did apply to the fpcaker in private)
they flew out into the moil violent invectives, imme-
diately fent over an agent to England, and appealed to
his majefty in council. The rcfult has been already re-
lated.

The progrefs of arts and fciences in this colony has

been

24 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

been very inconfiderable : the college of William and
Mary is the only public place of education, and this has
by no means anfwered the defign of its inftitution. It
has a foundation for a prefident and fix profefTors. The
bufmefs of the prefident is to fuperintend the whole, and
to read four theological lectures annually. He has a
handfome houfe to live in, and 200 1. fterling per an-
num. The profefTor of the Indian fchool has 6o 1. fter-
ling, and a houfe alfo ; his bufinefs is to inftrudt the In-
dians in reading, writing, and the principles of the
Chriftian religion : this pious inftitution was fet on foot
and promoted by the excellent Mr. Boyle *. The pro-
fefTor of humanity has the care of inftructing the ftudents
in clafTical learning : he has an ufher or afTiflant under
him. The four other profefTors teach moral philofophy,
metaphyfics, mathematics, and divinity. Each of the
profefTors has apartments in the college, and a falary of
about 80 1. per annum, f The prefent chancellor of the
college is the bifhop of London.

From what has been faid of this colony, it will not be
difficult to form an idea of the character J of its inhabi-
tants.

* See Appendix, N° 3. complifhments, to whom the following

f They have lince been rahed, I beiievej description is by no means applicable.

to 100I. Amongft others, I cannot refill the m-

t General characters are always liable clination of mentioning George Wyth

to^many exceptions. In Virginia, I have Efquire, who, to a pe; fed knowledge, of the

had the pie Jure to know feveral gentle- Greek language, which was taught him by

men adorned with many virtues and ac- his mother in the back woods, and of the

ancient,

VIRGINIA. 25

tants. The climate and external appearance of the
country confpire to make them indolent, eafy, and good-
natured ; extremely fond of fociety, and much given to
convivial pleafures. In confequence of this, they feldom
mow any fpirit of enterprize, or expofe themfelves wil-
lingly to fatigue. Their authority over their Haves ren-
ders them vain and imperious, and intire ftrangers to
that elegance of fentiment, which is fo peculiarly cha-
racteriftic of refined and polifhed nations. Their igno-
rance of mankind and of learning, expofes them to many
errors and prejudices, efpecially in regard to Indians and
Negroes, whom they fcarcely consider as of the human
fpecies ; fo that it is almofl impoflible, in cafes of vio-
lence, or even murder, committed upon thole unhappy
people by any of the planters, to have the delinquents
brought to juftice : for either the grand jury refufe to
find the bill, or the petit jury bring in their verdict, not

guilty *.

The

ancient, particularly the Platonic philofo- which make it almofl: impoffible to convicl:

phy, had joined fuch a profound reverence a planter, or white man, of the death of a

for the Supreme Being, fuch refpecl: for Negroe or Indian. By the firft it is enacl-

the divine laws, fuch philanthropy for man- ed, that " if any flave fhall d;e by reafon

kind, fuch fimplicity of manners, and fuch " of any ftroke or blow, given in correc-

inflexible rectitude and integrity of prin- « tion by his or her owner, or by reafon

ciple, as would have dignified a Roman " of any accidental blow whatfoever, siven

fenator, even in the moft virtuous times of " by fuch owner ; no perfon concerned in

the republic. — This gentleman is, I be- « fuch correction, or accidental homicide,

lieve, ftill living. " fhall undergo any profecution or punifh-

* There are two laws in this colony, " ment for the fame ; unlefs, upon exami-

E " nation

26

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

The difplay of a character thus conftituted, will na-
turally be in acls of extravagance, oftentation, and a dis-
regard of ceconomy y it is not extraordinary, therefore,
that the Virginians out-run their incomes ; and that hav-
ing involved themfelves in difficulties, they are frequently
tempted to raife money by bills of exchange, which they
know will be returned protefted, with 10 per cent, in-
tereft *.

The public or political character of the Virginians,

" nation before the county court, it fhall
" be proved by the oath of one lawful and
" credible witnefs, at leaft, that fuch flave
" was killed wilfully, malicioufly, and
« defignedly; nor (hall any perfon in-
" dieted for the murder of a flave, and upon
" trial found guilty only of manflaughter,
" incur any forfeiture or punifhment for
" fuch offence or misfortune." See Mer-
cer's Abridgment, p. 345. Ey the fecond,
" No Negroe, Mulatto, or Indian, can be
«* admitted into any court, or before any
" magiftrate, to be fwom as a witnefs, or
" give evidence in any caufe whatfoever,
« except upon the trial of a flave for a ca-
« pital offence." Mercer's Abridgment,
p. 419.

* By an act of affembly, if any bill of
exchange is drawn for the payment of any
fum of money, and fuch bill is protefted
for non-acceptance or non-payment, it
carries intereft from the date thereof, after
the rate of 10 per cent, per annum, until
the money be fully fatisfied and paid.

A very curious anecdote relative to this

law was mentioned to me at Williamfburg,
of which I am perfuaded the reader will ex-
cufe the relation. — An ufurer, not fatisfied
with 5 1. per cent, legal intereft, refufed to
advance a fum of money to a gentleman,
unlefs, by way of fecurity, he would give
him a bill of exchange that fhould be re-
turned protefted, by which he would be
intitled to 10 per cent. The gentleman,
who had immediate occafion for the money,
drew a bill upon a capital merchant in
London, with whom he had never had any
tranfaclion, or carried on the leaft corre-
fpondence. The merchant, on the receipt
of the bill, obferving the name of the
drawer, very readily honoured it, knowing
the gentleman to be a perfon of great pro-
perty, and concluding that he meant to
enter into correfpondence with him. The
ufurer upon this became intitled to only
5 1. per cent. He was exceedingly en-
raged, therefore, at being, as he fuppofed,
thus tricked : and complained very heavily
to the gentleman of his having given him
a good bill inftead of a bad one.

CO

rrefponds

VIRGINIA. 27

correfponds with their private one : they arc haughty and
jealous of their liberties, impatient of reftraint, and can
fcarcely bear the thought of being controuled by any
fuperior power. Many of them confider the colonies as
independent ftates, not connected with Great Britain,
otherwife than by having the fame common king, and
being bound to her by natural affe&ion. There are but
few of them that have a turn for bufinefs, and even thofe
are by no means expert at it. I have known them, upon
a very urgent occafion, vote the relief of a garrifon, with-
out once confidering whether the thing was practicable,
when it was moft evidently and dernonftrably otherwife *.
In matters of commerce they are ignorant of the necef-
fary principles that muft prevail between a colony and
the mother country; they think it a hardfhip not to have
an unlimited trade to every part of the world. They

* The garrifon here alluded to, was that Williamfburg ; were afterward to proceed
of Fort Loudoun, in the Cherokee coun- to the fort 200 miles farther through a wil-
try, coniifting of a lieutenant, and about dernefs, where there was no road, no ma-
fifty men. This unfortunate party being gazines, no pofts, either to fhelter the fick,
befieged by the Cherokee Indians, and re- or cover a retreat in cafe of any difafler ; fo
duced to the laft extremity, fent off runners that the unfortunate garrifon might as et-
to the governors of Virginia and Carolina, fectually have been fuccoured from the
imploring immediate fuccour ; adding, that moon. The author taking notice of thefe
it was impoffible for them to hold out above difficulties to one of the members, he
twenty days longer. The affembly of frankly replied, " Faith, it is true : but
Virginia, commiferating their unhappy " we have had an opportunity at leaft ot
fituation, very readily voted a confiderable " fliowing our loyalty." In a few days
fum for their relief. With this, troops after arrived the melancholy news, that this
were to be levied ; were to rendezvous unfortunate party was intirely cut off.

upon the frontiers 200 miles diftant from

E 2

eonfidei

28 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

confider the duties upon their ftaple as injurious only to
themfelves ; and it is utterly impoflible to perfuade them
that they affecl the confumer alfo. However, to do them
jufrice, the fame fpirit of generofity prevails here which
does in their private character ; they never refufe any ne-
ceffary fupplies for the fupport of government when called
upon, and are a generous and loyal people.

The women are, generally fpeaking, handfome, though
not to be compared with our fair country-women in
England. They have but few advantages, and confe-
quently are feldom accomplifhed ; this makes them re-
ferved, and unequal to any interefting or refined conver-
fation. They are immoderately fond of dancing, and
indeed it is almoft the only amufement they partake
of: but even in this they difcover want of tafte and
elegance, and feldom appear with that gracefulnefs and
eafe, which thefe movements are calculated to difplay.
Towards the clofe of an evening, when the company are
pretty well tired with country dances, it is ufual to dance
jiggs j a practice originally borrowed, I am informed,
from the * Negroes. Thefe dances are without method
or regularity : a gentleman and lady ftand up, and dance
about the room, one of them retiring, the other purfuing,
then perhaps meeting, in an irregular fantaftical manner.
After fome time, another lady gets up, and then the firft

* The author has fince had an oppor- Italy. The trefcone of the Tufcansis very
tunity of obferving fomething fimilar in like the jiggs of the Virginians.

-J- lady

VIRGINIA. 29

lady muft fit down, me being, as they term it, cut out :
the fecond lady acts the fame part which the firft did,
till fomebody cuts her out. The gentlemen perform in
the fame manner. The Virginian ladies, excepting thefe
amufements, and now and then going upon a party of
pleafure into the woods to partake of a barbacue*, chiefly
fpend their time in fewing and taking care of their fami-
lies: they feldom read, or endeavour to improve their
minds ; however, they are in general good houfewives ;
and though they have not, I think, quite fo much ten-
dernefs and fenfibility as the Englifh ladies, yet they make
as good wives, and as good mothers, as any in the world.
It is hard to determine, whether this colony can be
called flouriming, or not : becaufe though it produces
great quantities of tobacco and grain, yet there feem to
be very few improvements carrying on in it. Great part
of Virginia is a wildernefs, and as many of the gentlemen
are in poffeiTion of immenfe tra&s of land, it is likely to
continue fo. A fpirit of enterprize is by no means the
turn of the colony, and therefore few attemDts have been

* Monf. de Willd, in his French tranf- I muft beg leave to obferve, that fuch 3

lation of thefe travels, makes the following crutl and inhuman act was never, to my

o.bfervation upon the word, Barbacue. knowledge at Icait, pradtifed in that country.

" Cet amufement barbare confifte a A barbacue is nothing more than a porket,

" fouetter les pores jufqu' a la moit, pour killed in the ufual way, (luffed with fpices

" en rendre la chair plus delicate. Je ne and other rich ingredients, and balled with

" fache pas que les cannibales meme le Madeira v/ine. It 15 efteemed a very great

« pratiquent." delicacy; and is, I believe, a cofrly difh.

In juftice to the inhabitants of Virginia,

made

3o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

made to force a trade ; which I think might eafily be
done, both to the Weft Indies and the Ohio. They have
every thing neceffary for fuch an undertaking ; viz. lum-
ber, provifions, grain, and every other commodity, which
the other colonies, that fubfift and grow rich by thefe
means, make ufe of for exports ; but, inftead of this, they
have only a trifling communication with the Weft In-
dies ; and as to the Ohio, they have fuffered themfelves,
notwithftanding the fuperior advantages they might enjoy
from having a water carriage almoft to the Yoghiogheny,
to neglect this valuable branch of commerce ; while the
induflrious Penfylvanians feize every opportunity, and
ftruggle with innumerable difficulties, to fecure it to
themfelves. The Virginians are content if they can but
live from day to day ; they confine themfelves almoft in-
tirely to the cultivation of tobacco ; and if they have but
enough of this to pay their merchants in London, and to
provide for their pleafures, they are fatisfied, and defire
nothing more. Some few, indeed, have been rather more
enterprifing, and have endeavoured to improve their
eftates by railing indigo, and other fchemes : but whe-
ther it has been owing to the climate, to their inexpe-
rience in thefe matters, or their want of perfeverance, I
am unable to determine, but their fuccefs has not an-
fwered their expectations.

The taxes of this colony are confiderable, and the
public debt amounts to at leaft 400,000 1. currency;

this

VIRGINIA. 31

this they have been driven into by the war, having fel-
dom had lefs than a thoufand or fifteen hundred pro-
vincial troops in pay, cxclufive of the expences of fome
forts. The ways and means employed for railing the
money have been generally the fame : they have firft
made an emiflion of fo much paper currency as the ex-
igency required, and then laid a tax for finking it.
This tax has been commonly upon lands and negroes,
two millings for every titheable ; and a milling or eigh-
teen-pence upon every hundred acres of land. This
mode of taxation has occafioned fome divifions in the
houfe ; for the owners of large tracts being unable, per-
haps, to cultivate a tenth part of their pofTeiTions, and
every man's real income arifing from the number of his
Negroes, have thought it very hard to pay a tax for what
they pretend is of no value to them : but much better
arguments may undoubtedly be urged in fupport of the
tax than again ft it.

The taxes for the prefent debt are laid till the year
fixty-nine, when the whole, if they add nothing more to
it, will be difcharged. The ufe of paper currency in
this colony has intirely banifhed from it gold and filver.
Indeed the introduction of it was certain in time to pro-
duce this effecl: ; but left it mould not, the Virginians
fell into a meafure, which completed it at once : for by
an act of alTembly they fixed the exchange between cur-
rency and fterling debts at five and twenty per cent, not

con-

32 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

considering that the real value of their currency could
only be regulated by itfelf. The confequence was, that
when from frequent emiflions, the difference of ex-
change between bills upon merchants in London and
currency, was 40 per cent, the difference between cur-
rency and fpecie* was only five and twenty. So that
the monied men collected all the fpecie they could, fent
it to Philadelphia, where it paffed for its real value, pur-
chafed bills of exchange with it there, and fold them
again in Virginia with fifteen per cent, profit : and this
they continued to do till there was not a piftole or a dol-
lar remaining.

During my flay in Virginia, I made feveral excurfions
into different parts of the country : one in particular to
the great falls of Potowmac ; of which, as I expected to
be highly entertained, I kept a journal.

I departed from Williamfburg, Oct. 1. 1759, in com-
pany with another gentleman -j~ ; and we travelled that
day about forty miles, to a plantation j in King William
county ; beautifully fituated upon a high hill, on 'the
north fide of Pamunky river. A little below this place
{lands the Pamunky Indian town ; where at prefent are

* Fixing the difference between cur- She was at that time the mother of feven

rency and fterling debts, was, in reality, children, all living. The women in ge-

fixing it between currency and fpecie. neral, in this country, arrive at maturity

f Col. Bernard Moore. very early. Some are marriageable at

% Belonging to Col. Symes. This gen- eleven, many at thirteen, and the gene-

tleman's lady, a very beautiful woman, was rality at fourteen or fifteen years of age.

faid to have jure attained her 21ft yea

the

P A M U N K Y I N D I A N S. 33

the few remains of that large tribe; the reft having
dwindled away through intemperance and difeafe. They
live in little wigwams or cabins upon the river ; and have
a very fine tract of land of about 2000 acres, which, they
are reftrained from alienating by act of aiTembly. Their
employment is chiefly hunting or fifhing, for the neigh-
bouring gentry. They commonly drefs like the Vir-
ginians, and I have fometimes miftaken them for the
lower fort of that people *. The night I fpent here,
they went out into an adjoining marfh to catch forufes ;
and one of them, as I was informed in the morning,
caught near a hundred dozen. The manner of taking
thefe birds is remarkable. The forus is not known to be
in Virginia, except for about fix weeks from the latter
end of September : at that time they are found in the
marfhes in prodigious numbers, feeding upon the wild
oats. At firfr they are exceedingly lean, but in a fhort
time grow fo fat, as to be unable to fly : in this ftate
they lie upon the reeds, and the Indians go out in canoes
and knock them on the head with their paddles. They
are rather bigger than a lark, and are delicious eating.
During the time of their continuing in feafon, you meet
with them at the tables of moft of the planters, break-
faft, dinner, and fupperf.

oa.

* See Appendix, N°. 3. ftill continues. At the top of the table,

f In feveral psrts of Virginia the an- where the lady of the houfe prefides, there

cient cuftom of eating meat at breakfaft is conftantly tea and coffee ; but the reft of

F the

34 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

Oct. 2. We went to another plantation about twenty-
four miles diftant, belonging to a private gentleman*,
upon Mattapony river. We ftaid there all that and the
next day on account of rain.

Ocl. 4. We travelled twenty-five miles to another
gentleman's f houfe; and from thence, the day follow-
ing, about twenty-iive miles farther, to a town called
Fredericfburg.

Fredericiburg is fituated about a mile below the Falls
of Rappahannoc : it is regularly laid out, as mod of the
towns in Virginia are, in parallel ftreets. Part of it is
built upon an eminence, and commands a delightful
profpect ; the reft upon the edge of the water for the
convenience of warehoufes. The town was begun about
thirty- two years ago, for the fake of carrying on a trade
with the back-fettlers ; and is at prefent by far the raoft
flourifhing one in thefe parts.

We left Fredericiburg the 6th inftant, and went to fee
the Falls. At this place is a fmall mercantile town called
Falmouth ; whofe inhabitants are endeavouring to rival
the Fredericfburghers in their trade. It is built upon the
north fide of the river, and confifts of eighteen or twenty
houfes.

The Falls of Rappahannoc are fimilar to thofe of

the table is garniflied with roafted fowls, and there is fcarcely a Virginian lady who

ham, venifon, game, and other dainties. breakfafts without it.
Even at Williamiburg, it is the cuftom to * Major Henry Gaines,

have a plate of cold ham upon the table; f Col. Bailors,

James

FALLS OF RAPPAHANNOC. 35

James river, except that they are not upon fo large a
icale. rJ he whole range fcarcely ex'ceecls half a mile,
and the breadth not a hundred yards. At the time of
our going to fee them, there was a frefh in the river,
which added very much to their beauty. The center of
view was an iiland of about an hundred acres covered
with trees; this divided the river into two branches, in
each of which, at regular diftances of fifteen or twenty
yards, was a chain of fix or feven falls, one above another,
the lead of them a toot perpendicular. The margin was
beautifully variegated with rocks and trees, and the
whole formed a pleafing romantic fcenc.

At this place we met with a perfon who informed us
of his having been, a few days before, a fpeclator of that
extraordinary phenomenon in nature, the fafcinating
power of the rattle-fnake. He obferved one lying coiled
near a tree, looking direclly at a bird which had fettled
there. The bird was under great agitation, uttered the
mod: doleful cries, hopped from fpray to fpray, and at
length flew direclly down to the fnake, which opened its
mouth and fwallowed it.

From hence we afcended up the river, about fifteen
miles, to Spotfwood's iron-mines ; and in our way had a
fine view of the Apalachian mountains, or Blue Ridge,
at the diftance of feventy miles. At this place I was
much affected by the following incident. A gentleman
}n our company, which was now increafed, had a fmall
F 2 Negroe

36 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

Negroe boy with him, about fourteen years of age, that
had lived with him in a remote part of the country fome
time as a fervant ; an old woman who was working in
the mines, and who proved to be the boy's grandmother,
accidentally caft her eyes on him ; fhe viewed him with
great attention for fome time ; then fcreamed out, faying
that it was her child, and flung herfeif down upon the
ground. She lay there fome feconds ; rofe up, looked
on him again in an extafy of joy, and fell upon his neck
and killed him. After this, (he retired a few paces, ex-
amined him afrefh with fixed attention, and immediately
feemed to lofe herfeif in thoughtful and profound melan-
choly. The boy all this while flood filent and motion-
lefs ; reclining his head on one fide, pale and affected
beyond defcription : It would not have been in the
power of painting to exhibit a finer picture of diftrefs.

We returned from this place the next day to Fredericf-
burg ; and ferrying over the Rappahannoc into the
Northern Neck, travelled about feventeen miles to a
gentleman's houfe in Stafford county : in the morning
we proceeded through Dumfries, and over Occoquan
river to Colchefter, about twenty-one miles.

Thefe are two fmall towns lately built for the fake of
the back trade j the former * on the Quantico, the other

* In the preceding editions of this book, probably arofe from the author's having

Dumfries is mentioned as fituated upon patted the Acquia, the Quantico, and the

i\cquia Creek: but this is certainly erro- Occoquan, rivers in the fame day; and his

neous; for all the maps defcribe it as want of perfect and correct recollection,

fituated upon the Quantico. The error when he wrote his journal in the evening.

u upon

COLCHESTER.

37

upon Occoqnan river, both of which fall into the Potow-
mac. About two miles above Colchefter there is an iron
furnace, a forge, two faw-mills, and a bolting-mill : at
our return we had an opportunity of vifiting them : they
have every convenience of wood and water, that can be
wimed for. The ore wrought here is brought from
Maryland; not that there is any doubt of there being
plenty enough in the adjacent hills; but the inhabitants
are difcouraged from trying for it by the proprietor's (viz.
lord Fairfax) having referved to himfelf a third of all ore
that may be difcovered in the Northern Neck *.

* An occurrence happened to me in the
courfe of this day's travelling, which,
though it made a considerable impreffion
upon me at the time, I fhould not have
thought of fufficicnt moment to be record-
ed, had not the intellectual powers of the
African Negroes been frequently, of late,
made the fubject of converfation, both by
the friends and the oppofers of the emanci-
pation of that unhappy race. In pafiing
either Acquia, Qiiantico, or Occoquan
rivers, I do not recollect which, I was
rowed by an old grey-headed Negroe;
who feemed quite exhaufted and worn
down by age and infirmity. I inquired
into his fituation, and received for anfwer,
that he had been a flave from his youth,
and had continued to work for his mailer
till age had rendered him unfit for fervice;
that his mafter had then kindly given him
a fmall piece of ground, and the profits of
the ferry, which were indeed very incon-

fiderable, for his maintenance; and that
with thefe means of fubfiftence he awaited
the hour when it might pleafe God to call
him to another life. I obferved, that he
muft naturally vvifh for that hour, as it
would releafe him from his prefent fuffer-
ings. His anfwer was, no; for he was
afraid to die. On my queftioning him,
why he was afraid to die: whether he had
any thing upon his confcience that gave him
uneafinefe; or whether he had not been
honeft and faithful to his mafter ? He an-
fwered, yes ; I have always done my duty
to the beft of my power: but yet I am
afraid to die: and was not our Saviour
himfelf afraid to die ? The anfwer was fo
unexpected, and fo far beyond what I fup-
pofed to be the intellectual capacity of the
poor Negroe, that it funk deep into my
mind, and I was loft for a moment in
filence.

From

33 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

From Colchefter we went about twelve miles farther
to Mount Vernon. This place is the property of colonel
Wafliington, and truly defcrving of its owner*. The
houfe is raoft beautifully iituated upon a high hill on the
banks of the Potowmac; and commands a noble profpedt
of water, of cliffs, of woods, and plantations. The river
is nearly two miles broad, though two hundred from the
mouth; and divides the dominions of Virginia from Mary-
land f. We relied here one day, and proceeded up the

* I cannot omit this opportunity of
bearing teftimony to the gallant and
public fpirit of this gentleman. Nov. i,
1753, Lieut. Gov. Dinwiddie having in-
formed the affembly of Virginia, that the
French had erected a fort upon the Ohio,
it was refolved to fend fomebody to M.
St. Pierre, the commander, to claim that
country as belonging to his Britannic
Majefty, and to order him to withdraw.
Mr. Washington, a young gentleman of
fortune juft arrived at age, offered his
fervice on this important occafion. The
diftance was more than 400 miles ; 200
of which lay through a tracklefs defert,
inhabited by cruel and mercilefs favages;
and the feafon was uncommonly fevere.
Notwithstanding thefe difcouraging cir-
c.umftances, iVlr. Wafliington, attended
by one companion only, fet out upon
this dangerous enterprize : travelled from
Wincheirer on foot, carrying his provi-
sions on his back, executed his commif-
fion ; and after incredible haidihips, and
many providential tfcapes, returned fafe
to VVilliamfburg, and gave an account

of his negociation to the affembly, the
14th day of February following.

f A very curious fight is frequently
exhibited upon this and the other great
rivers in Virginia, which for its novelty
is exceedingly diverting to Strangers.
During the fpring and fummer months
the fifhing-hawk is often feen hovering
oyer the rivers, or reding on the wing
without the leail vifible change of place
for fome minutes, then fuddenly darting
down and plunging into the water, from
whence it Seldom rifes again without a
rock fifh, or fome other confiderable
filh in its talons. It immediately fhakes
off the water like a mitt, and makes the
befl: of its way towards the woods. The
bald- eagle, which is generally upon the
watch, inltantly purfues, and if it can
overtake, endeavours to foar above it.
The hawk growing felicitous for its
own fafety drops the fifth, and the bald-
eagle immediately ftoops, and feldom
fails to catch it in its pounces before it
reaches the water,

river

FALLS OF P O T O W M A C. 39

river about twenty-fix miles, to take a view of the Great
Falls. Thefe are formed in fome refpedt like thofe of
the Rappahannoc; hut are infinitely more noble. The
channel of the river is contracted by hills; and is as nar-
row, I was told, as at Fort Cumberland, which is an hun-
dred and fifty miles higher up. It is clogged moreover
with innumerable rocks; fo that the water for a mile or
two flows with accelerated velocity. At length coming
to a ledge of rocks, which runs diametrically crofs the
river, it divides into two fpouts, each about eight yards
wide, and rufhes down a precipice with incredible rapi-
dity. The fpout on the Virginian fide makes three falls,
one above another; the firft about ten feet, the next fif-
teen, and the laft twenty-four or twenty-five feet perpen-
dicular : the water is of a vaft bulk, and almoft intire.
The fpout on the Maryland fide is nearly equal in height
and quantity, but a great deal more broken. Thefe two
fpouts, after running in feparate channels for a fhort
fpace, at length unite in one about thirty yards wide; and
as we judged from the fmoothnefs of the furface and our
unfuccefsful endeavours to fathom it, of prodigious depth.
The rocks on each fide are at lead ninety or a hundred
feet high ; and yet, in great frefhes, the water overflows
the tops of them, as appeared by feveral large and intire
trees, which had lodged there.

In the evening we returned down the river about fix-
teen miles to Alexandria, or Bel -haven, a fmall trading

place

+o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

place in one of the fineft fituations imaginable. The
Potowmac above and below the town, is not more than
a mile broad, but it here opens into a large circular bay,
of at leaft twice that diameter.

The town is built upon an arc of this bay ; at one ex-
tremity of which is a wharf; at the other a dock for
building mips ; with water fufficiently deep to launch a
veifel of any rate or magnitude.

The next day we returned to colonel Wafhington's,
and in a few days afterward to Williamfburg.

The time of my refidence in this colony was ten
months, and I received fo many inftances of friend-
ship and good -nature, that not to acknowledge them
would be an adt of ingratitude. It would not be eafy
to mention particular inftances, without being guilty of
injuftice by omitting others : but, in general, I can
truly affirm, that I took leave of this hofpitable people
with regret, and mail ever remember them with gratitude
and affection.

May 26, 1760. Having procured three horfes, for
myfelf, fervant, and baggage, I departed from Williamf-
burg, and travelled that night to Eltham * ; twenty-five
miles.

May 27. I ferried over Pamunky river at Danfies, and
went to Todd's ordinary upon Mattopony, or the north-
ern branch of York river ; thirty-two miles.

* The plantation of Col. BafTett.

May

VIRGINIA. 41

May 28. I went to a plantation in Caroline county * ;
twenty-feven miles.

May 29. To Fredericfburg ; twenty-five miles.

As I was travelling this day, I pbferved a large black-
fnake, about fix feet long, lying crofs the flump of a tree
by the road fide. I touched it with my fwitch feveral
times before it flirred ; at laft it darted with incredible
fwiitnefs into the woods. On looking into the hole,
where it had fixed its head, I obferved a fmall bead-fnake
about two feet long ; beautifully variegated with red,
black, and orange colour, which the black-fnake was
watching to prey upon. I took and laid it, half ftupi-
fied, in the fun to revive. After I had proceeded about
a quarter of a mile, it occurred to me that it would be a
great curiofity if I could carry it to England ; I there-
fore fent my fervant back with orders to fetch it : but,
at his return, he acquainted me that it was not to be
found, and that the black-fnake was in the fame poiition
wherein I had nrfr. difcovered it. I mention this as an
inftance of the intrepid nature of the black-fnake, which,
though not venomous, will attack and devour the rattle-
fnake ; and, in fome cafes, it is afTerted, even dare to
affault a man.

May 30. I left Fredericfburg, and having ferried over
the Rappahannoc at the falls, travelled that night to Ne-
ville's ordinary, about thirty-four miles.

* Belonging to Col. Bailor, mentioned above.

g May

42 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

May 31. I paffed over the Pignut and Blue Ridges ;
and, croffmg the Shenando, arrived, after a long day's
journey of above fifty miles, at Winchefler *.

The Pignut ridge is a continuation of the fouth-wefl:
mountains. It is no where very high ; and at the gap
where I paffed, the afcent is fo extremely eafy, owing to
the winding of the road between the mountains, that I
was fcarcely fenfible of it.

The tract of country lying between this ridge and the
coafl, is fuppofed, and with fome appearance of proba-
bility, to have been gained from the ocean. The fitua-
tion is extremely low, and the ground every where
broken into fmall hills, nearly of the fame elevation,
with deep intermediate gullies, as if it were the effect of
fome fudden retiring of the waters. The foil is princi-
pally of fand ; and there are few, if any pebbles, within
a hundred miles of the more ; for which reafon the Vir-
ginians in thefe parts never fhoe their horfes. Incredible
quantities of what are called fcallop-fhells, are found alfo
near the furface of the ground ; and many of the hills are
intirely formed of them. Thefe phenomena, with others
lefs obvious to common obfervation, feem to indicate,
that the Atlantic, either gradually, or by fome fudden

* Greenway Court, the feat of the ve- and Winchefler. His Lordfhip being ab-
nerable Lord Fairfax, is fituated a few fent, I was prevented from paying my re-
miles on the left of the road, about half fpects to him.— See Appendix, NB 4.
way between the Apalachian mountains

5 revolution

BLUE-RIDGE. NORTH-RIDGE. 43

revolution in nature, has retired, and loft a confidcrable
part of that dominion which formerly belonged to it.

The Blue-ridge is much higher than the Pignut :
though even thefe mountains are not to be compared
with the Alleghenny. To the fouthward, I was told,
they are more lofty ; and but little, if at all, inferior to
them. The pafs, at Afhby's Gap, from the foot of the
mountain on the eaftern fide to the Shenando, which
runs at the foot on the weftern, is about four miles. The
afcent is no where very fteep ; though the mountains are,
upon the whole, I think, higher than any I have ever
feen in England. When I got to the top, I was inex-
prefiibly delighted with the fcene which opened before
me. Immediately under the mountain, which was co-
vered with chamoedaphnes in full bloom, was a mod
beautiful river : beyond this an extenfive plain, diversi-
fied with every pleafing object that nature can exhibit ;
and, at the diftance of fifty miles, another ridge of ftill
more lofty mountains, called the Great, or North-ridge *,
which inclofed and terminated the whole.

The river Shenando rifes a great way to the fouthward
from under this Great North-ridge. It runs through
Augufta county, and falls into the Potowmac fomewhere
in Frederic. At the place where I ferried over, it is only
about a hundred yards wide ; and indeed it is no where,

* All thefe ridges confift of fingle mountains joined together, and run parallel to
each other,

g 2 I believe,

44 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

I believe, very broad. It is exceedingly romantic and
beautiful, forming great variety of falls, and is fo tranf-
parent, that you may fee the fmallefr. pebble at the depth
of eight or ten feet. 1 here is plenty of trout and other
fifh in it ; but it is not navigable, except for rafts. In
fudden frefhes it rifes above forty or fifty feet. The low
grounds upon the banks of this river are very rich and
fertile; they are chiefly fettled by Germans, who gain a
comfortable livelihood by raifing ftock for the troops, and
fending butter down into the lower parts of the country.
I could not but reflecl with pleafure on the fituation of
thefe people ; and think if there is fuch a thing as hap-
pinefs in this life, that they enjoy it. Far from the buftle
of the world, they live in the moft delightful climate,
and richeft foil imaginable ; they are every where fur-
rounded with beautiful profpecls and fylvan fcenes -y
lofty mountains, tranfparent ftreams, falls of water, rich
vallies, and majefxic woods ; the whole interfperfed with
an infinite variety of flowering fhrubs, conftitute the
landfcape furrounding them : they are fubjecl: to few
difeafes ; are generally robuft ; and live in perfect li-
berty : they are ignorant of want, and acquainted with
but few vices. Their inexperience of the elegancies of
life, precludes any regret that they pofTefs not the means
of enjoying them : but they pofTefs what many princes
would give half their dominions for, health, content,
and tranquillity of mind.

Winchefter

WINCHESTER. 45-

Winchefter is a fmall town of about two hundred
houfes. It is the place of general rendezvous of the
Virginian troops, which is the reafon of its late rapid
increafe, and prefent flourifhing condition. The country
about it, before the reduction of Fort du Quefne, was
greatly expofed to the ravages of the Indians, who daily
committed mofl horrid cruelties : even the town would
have been in danger, had not colonel Washington, in
order to cover and protect it, erected a fort upon an emi-
nence at one end of it, which proved of the utmoft uti-
lity ; for although the Indians were frequently in
fight of the town, they never dared to approach within
reach of the fort. It is a regular fquare fortification,
with four baftions, mounting twenty-four cannon ; the
length of each curtain, if I am not mifiaken, is about
eighty yards. Within, there are barracks for 450 men.
The materials of which it is conftructed, are logr, filled
up with earth : the foldiers attempted to furround it
with a dry ditch ; but the rock was fo extremely hard
and impenetrable, that they were obliged to deiift. It
is ftill unfmifhed ; and, I fear, going to ruin ; for the
afTembly, who feldom look a great way before them,
after having fpent about 9000 1. currency upon it, can-
not be prevailed upon to give another thoufand towards
finifhing it, becaufe we are in poiTeflion of Pitfburg ;
and, as they fuppofe, quite fecure on this account ; yet
it is certain, that, in cafe of another Indian war on this

fide,

46 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

fide, which is by no means improbable, confidering our
general treatment of that people, it would be of the ut-
moft advantage and fecurity.

There is a peculiarity in the water at Winchefter,
owing, I was told, to the foil's being of a limy quality,
which is frequently productive of fevere gripings, efpe-
cially in ftrangers ; but it is generally fuppofed, on the
other hand, to be fpecific againft fome other difeafes *.

During my ftay at this place, I was almoft induced to
make a tour for a fortnight to the fouthward, in Augufta
county, for the fake of feeing fome natural curiofities ;
which, the officers allured me, were extremely well
worth vifiting : but as the Cherokees had been fcalping
in thofe parts only a few days before ; and as I feared, at
the fame time, that it would detain me too long, and
that I mould lofe my paffage to England, I judged it
prudent to decline it.

The curiofities they mentioned to me, were chiefly
thefe :

i. About forty miles weftward of Augufta court-
houfe, a beautiful cafcade, burfting out of the fide of a
rock ; and, after running fome diftance through a mea-
dow, ruining down a precipice 150 feet perpendicular.

2. To the fouthward of this about twenty miles, two

* Profcffor Haller, in his notes to the pregnatcd with Vitriolic Magnefia, Sal
German tranflaticn of this book, fuppcfes Amarum.
that die water at Winchefter may be ini-

WINCHESTER. 47

curious hot fprings, one tafting like alum, the other like
the warnings of a gun.

3. A raoft extraordinary cave.

4. A medicinal fpring, fpecific in venereal cafes. A
(oldier in the Virginian regiment, whofe cafe was thought
defperate, by drinking and bathing in thefe waters, was,
after a few days, intirely cured. This fact was afferted
very ftrongly by fome officers, who had been pofted
there : but colonel Wafhington, of whom I inquired
more particularly concerning it, informed me that he
had never heard of it ; that he was not indeed at the
place where it is faid to have happened, but that having
had the command of the regiment at that time, he mould
probably have been informed of it. What credit there-
fore is to be given to it, the reader muft judge for
himfelf.

5. Sixty miles fouthward of Augufta court-houfe, a
natural arch, or bridge, joining two high mountains,
with a considerable river running underneath.

6. A river called Loft river, from its finking under a
mountain, and never appearing again.

7. A fpring of a fulphureous nature, an infallible cure
for particular cutaneous diforders.

8. Sixteen miles north-eaft of Winchefter, a natural
cave or well, into which, at times, a perfon may go
down to the depth of 100 or 150 yards ; and at other
times, the water rifes up to the top, and overflows plen-
tifully.

4S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

tifully. This is called the ebbing and flowing well, and
■ is fttuated in a plain, flat country, not contiguous to any-
mountain or running water.

9. A few miles from hence, flx or feven curious caves
communicating with each other.

A day or two before I left Winchefter, I difcovered
that I had been robbed by my fervant : he confefTcd the
fact, and pleaded fo little in juftification of himfelf, that
I was obliged to difmifs him. This diftreffcd me very
much, for it was impofllble to hire a fervant in thefe
parts, or even any one to go over the mountains with me
into the lower fettlements. However, by the politenefs
of the commander of the place, the honourable colonel
Byrd, and of another gentleman* of my acquaintance, I
got over thefe difficulties ; for the former, while I con-
tinued at Winchefter, accommodated me with his own
apartments in the fort, ordering his fervants to attend and
wait fjpon me: and the latter fe£t a negroe boy with me
as far as colonel Wafhington's, 'eighty miles diftant from
this place. On the 4th of June, therefore, I was en-
abled to leave Winchefter, and I travelled that night
about eighteen miles, to Sniker's f ferry upon the She-
nando.

The next morning I repaffed the Blue-ridge at
William's Gap, and proceeded on my journey about forty

* Colonel Churchill.
t Called in Fry and Jefferfon's map, Williams's Ferry.

miles.

VIRGINIA. 49

miles. I this day fell into converfation with a planter,
who overtook me on the road, concerning the rattle-
fnake, of which there are infinite numbers in thefe
parts ; and he told me, that one day going to a mill at
fome diftance, he provoked one to fuch a degree, as to
make it ftrike a fmall vine which grew clofe by, and that
the vine prefently drooped and died *.

My accommodations this evening were extremely bad ;
I had been wet to the fkin in the afternoon ; and at the
miferable plantation in which I had taken fhelter, I
could get no fire ; nothing to eat or drink but pure
water ; and not even a blanket to cover me. I threw
myfelf down upon my mattrafs, but fuffered fo much
from cold, and was fo infefted with infects and vermin,
that I could not clofe my eyes. I rofe early in the
morning, therefore, and proceeded upon my journey, be-
ing diftant from colonel Wamington's not more than
thirty miles. It Was ^jjate, however, before I arrived
there, for it rained extremely hard, and a man who un-
dertook to fhew me the neareft way, led me among pre-
cipices and rocks, and we, were loft for above two hours.
It was not indeed, without fome compenfation ; for he

* Several perfons to whom I have men- fociety ; and, more particularly, how he

tioned this fact, have feemed to doubt of fhould happen to fix upon that tree ; which,

the probability of it. But were it not true, fuppofing the thing poffible, is the moft

a queftion will naturally arife, how an idea likely to have been affected in the manner

of that nature fhould occur to an ignorant defcribed.
planter, living remote from all cultivated

h brought

5o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

brought me through as beautiful and pi&urefque a fcene,
as eye ever beheld. It was a delightful valley, about two
miles in length, and a quarter of one in breadth, between
high and craggy mountains, covered with chamcedaph-
nes * or wild ivy, in full flower. Through the middle
of the valley glided a rivulet about eight yards wide, ex-
tremely lucid, and breaking into innumerable cafcades ;
and in different parts of it flood fmall clumps of ever-
greens ; fuch as myrtles, cedars, pines, and various other
forts. Upon the whole, not Tempe itfelf could have dis-
played greater beauty or a more delightful fcene.

At colonel Wafhington's I difpofed of my horfes, and,
having borrowed his curricle and fervant, I took leave of
Mount Vernon the nth of June.

I croffed over the Potowmac into Maryland at Clif-
ton's ferry, where the river is Something more than a mile
broad ; and proceeded on my journey to Marlborough,
eighteen miles. I here met with a ftrolling company of

* The chamoedaphne is the moft beau- " the cup, at equal diftances; their apices

tiful of all flowering (hrubs: Catefby in " being lodged in ten little hollow cells,

his Natural Hiftory of Carolina fpealcs of " which being prominent on the outfidej

it in the following manner : " The flowers " appear as fo many little tubercles. — A3

" grow in bunches on the tops of the " all plants have their peculiar beauties, it

" branches, to footftalks of three inches " is difficult to affign to any one an ele-

" long ; they are white, ftained with pur- " gance excelling ail others ; yet confider-

" plifh red ; confifting of one leaf in form " ing the curious ftru&ure of the flower,

" of a cup, divided at the verge into five " and beautiful appearance of this whole

u fedtions. In the middle is a ftilus, and " plant, I know of no fhrub that has a

'* ten ftamina, which, when the flower firft " better claim to it." Catefby, Vol. II.

" opens, appear lying dole to the fides of p. 98, See Appendix, N° 1.

players.

ANNAPOLIS. 5i

players, under the direction of one Douglas. I went to
fee their theatre, which was a neat, convenient tobacco-
houfe, well fitted up for the purpofe. From hence in
the afternoon I proceeded to Queen Ann, nine miles ;
and in the evening nine miles farther, over the Patuxen
to London-town ferry ; I ftaid here all night, and early
in the morning ferrying over South river, three quarters
of a mile in breadth, I arrived at Annapolis, four miles
diftant, about nine in the morning.

Annapolis is the capital of Maryland ; it is a fmall neat
town, confifting of about a hundred and fifty houfes,
fituated on a peninfula upon Severn river. The penin-
fula is formed by the river, and two fmall creeks ; and
although the river is not above a mile broad ; yet as it
falls into Chefapeak bay a little below, there is from this
town the fined water-profpect imaginable. The bay is
twelve miles over, and beyond it you may difcern the
eaftern fhore ; fo that the fcene is diversified with fields,
woods, and water. The tide rifes here about two feet,
and the water is fait, though the diftance of the Capes is
more than 200 miles. The town is not laid out regu-
larly, but is tolerably well built, and has feveral good
brick houfes. None of the ftreets are paved, and the
few public buildings here are not worth mentioning.
The church is a very poor one, the ftadt-houfe but in-
different, and the governor's palace is not finifhed. This
laft mentioned building was begun a few years ago ; it is
h 2 fituated

52 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

fituated very finely upon an eminence, and commands a
beautiful view of the town and environs. It has four
large rooms on the lower floor, befides a magnificent
faloon, a ftair-cafe, and a veftibule. On each fide of the
entrance are four windows, and nine upon the firft ftory;.
the offices are under ground. It was to have had a fine
portico the whole range of the building ; but unluckily
the governor and afTembly difagreeing about ways and
means, the execution of the defign was fufpended ; and
only the fhell of the houfe has been finifhed, which
is now going to ruin. The houfe which the prefent
governor inhabits, is hired by the province at 80 1. cur-
rency per annum.

There is very little trade carried on from this place,
and the chief of the inhabitants are ftorekeepers or public
officers. They build two or three mips annually, but
feldom more. There are no fortifications, except a mi-
ferable battery of fifteen fix-pounders.

Maryland is fituated between the 38th and 40th de-
gree of north latitude, and the 75th and 80th of weft
longitude from London. It is bounded on the eaft by
the Atlantic ocean, and the three lower counties of
Delaware ; on the fouth and weft by Virginia ; and by
Pennfylvania on the north. The climate, foil, and na-
tural productions of it are nearly the fame as thofe of Vir-
ginia. It is watered by many fine rivers, and almoft in-
numerable creeks j but it is far from being well culti-
4* vated?

MARYLAND.

53

vated, and is capable of much improvement. It is di-
vided into fourteen counties, and between forty and fifty
parimes ; and there are feveral little towns in it which
are neatly built. — The inhabitants, exclufive of flaves,
are fuppofed to be about ninety thoufand : of which the
militia, including all white males between fixteen and
fixty, amounts to eighteen. The flaves are about
thirty- two thoufand. — The ftaple of the country is to-
bacco ; and, communibus annis, they export near 30,000
hogmeads : laft year their exports amounted to 50,000.
—Their manufactures are very trifling. — The govern-
ment is a proprietary one ; and coniifts of the proprietor
(viz. lord Baltimore); his governor; the council, com-
pofed of twelve perfons nominated by himfelf ; and a
houfe of reprefentatives, elected by the people ; four for
each county, and two for Annapolis. The power of the
proprietor is next to regal ; of the other parts of the le-
giflature, much the fame as in Virginia. The lower
houfe has been at variance fome years with the council
and governor, concerning ways and means ; chiefly in
regard to taxing the merchants book-debts : which has
been the reafon of their having done nothing for the de-
fence of the colonies during the war. The houfe has
conflantly voted troops, but as conftantly laid the fame
tax for the maintenance of them : the council therefore
has always rejected the bill ; alledging the inconvenience
of fuch a tax, as it would neceffarily be a reftraint upon

trade :

54 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

trade ; and ruin many of the merchants credit. — The
proprietor has a negative * upon every bill, exclufive of
his governor.

There are feveral courts of judicature in this province;
but the principal are either thofe which are held quar-
terly in each county by the juftices thereof, like thofe in
Virginia ; or the provincial ones, which are held twice
annually at Annapolis by judges appointed for that pur-
pofe -f~. The court of chancery confifts of the governor
and council : and the dernier refort is to his majefty in
council at home.

The eftablifhed religion is that of the church of Eng-
land : but there are as many Roman Catholics as Pro-
tectants. The clergy are liberally provided for; they
have not, as in Virginia, a fixed quantity of tobacco;
but fo much per head, viz. 30 lb. weight for every tythe-
able in their refpective parifhes : and fome of them make
more than 300 1. fterling per annum. Ihey are pre-
fented to their livings by the governor ; and are under
the jurifdiclion of the bifhop of London ; but being at
a great diftance from England, and having no commiiTary
to fuperintend their affairs, they lie under many difad-
vantages. Affeffments are made, J was told, by the
county- courts ; the veftry, which confifts of twelve

* This power is doubted, though it has merly a general court of alize held through-
uever yet been contefted. out the province, either once or twice a

t Befides thefe courts, there was for- year, but this has been laid afide.

members

CHESAPEAK-BAY,

members diftindl from the church-wardens, have little
or no authority *.

In each county throughout this province, there is a
public free-fchool, for reading, writing, and accounts;
but no college or academy ; and the education of youth
is but little attended to.

The character of the inhabitants is much the fame as
that of the Virginians ; and the ftate of the two colonies
nearly alike. Tobacco, to fpeak in general, is the chief
thing attended to in both. There have been fome at-
tempts to make wine ; and it is certain, that the coun-
try is capable of producing almoft any fort of grapes.
Col. Tafco, a gentleman of diftinction in thefe parts,
attempted to make Burgundy, and fucceeded tolerably
well for the firft trial. I drank fome of the wine at the
table of Mr. Hamilton, the governor of Pennfylvania,
and thought it not bad. But whether, as this gentleman
is now deceafed, any other perfon will have fpirit to
profecute his plan, I much doubt. The currency here
is paper-money, and the difference of exchange about
fifty per cent. The duty upon Negroes, is only forty
millings currency per head at their importation; whereas
in Virginia it is ten pounds.

June 13. I hired a fchooner of about ten ton, and

* The whole veftry, as in Virginia, is annually a frefti ele&ion. They have
confifts of twelve members ; but they go the power of appointing infpeclors, &c.
off by rotation two every year ; and there

embarked

56 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

embarked for the head of the bay, diftant twenty-three
leagues ; we made fail with a frefli breeze, and after a
pleafant paflage of fixteen hours, in one of the moft de-
lightful days imaginable, arrived at Frederick-town upon
Saflafras river, about twelve in the evening. I never in
my life fpent a day more agreeably, or with higher en-
tertainment. The mores on each fide of the bay, and
the many little iflands interfperfed in it, afford very beau-
tiful profpe&s ; we were entertained at the fame time
by innumerable porpoifes playing about the bow of the
fhip ; and naturally fell into a train of the moll pleafing
reflections, on obferving the mouths of the many noble
rivers as we palled along. On the weftern more, befides
thofe great rivers of Virginia, which I have already de-
fcribed, there are ten or eleven others, large and capa-
cious, fome of them navigable a considerable way up into
the country *. " The Patuxen, which we have left behind
us, laid the mafter of the fchooner, as we were failing
over this beautiful bay, is navigable near fifty miles for
veffels of three hundred ton burthen. Yonder, he added,
are South, Severn, and Magotty rivers, navigable about
ten miles. A little farther is the Patapfico, a large and
noble river; where I have gone up fifteen miles. Back,
Middle, Gunpowder, and Bum rivers admit only floops

* By fome error or overfight the names fcript, were omitted in the firft and fecond
of feveral rivers here mentioned, though editions of this work. They are now in-
particularly fpecified in the original manu- ferted, and the account is correct.

and

WCAS T J, E. s7

and fchooners, and thefe only for fix or feven miles.
The Sufquehannah, though fo majeftic, and fupcrior in
appearance, has only a fhort, and that a bad navigation ;
but it rifes an immenfe way off in unknown and inhofpi-
table regions, is exceedingly large and beautiful, and af-
fords great variety of fifli. The next, or North river,
is navigable about ten miles. On the eaftern fhore,
lie concluded, are Elk, Bahama, Safiafras, Chefter, Wye,
Miles, Great Choptank, Little Choptank, Nanticote,
Manokin, and Pocomoke rivers, all of them navigable,
more or lefs, for feveral miles *." — Such was our conver-
fation and entertainment during this delightful voyage.

Frederic-town is a fmall village on the weftern fide of
SafTafras river, built for the accommodation of ftrangers
and travellers ; on the eaftern fide, exa&ly oppofite to it,
is another fmall village (George- town), erected for the
fame purpofe. — Having hired an Italian chaife, with a
fervant and horfe to attend me as far as Philadelphia, I
left Frederic-town the next day, and went to Newcaftle,
thirty-two miles.

Newcaftle is fituated upon Delaware river, about forty
miles above the Bay, and a hundred from the Capes. It
is the capital of the three lower counties, but a place of
very little conflderation ; there are fcarcely more than a
hundred houfes in it, and no public buildings that deferve
to be taken notice of. The church, prefbyterian and

* He faid from eighteen to fifty miles.

i quakers

5 8 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

quakcrs meeting -houfes, court-houfe, and market-houfc,
are almoft equally bad, and undeferving of attention.

The province, of which this is the capital, and which
is diitinguifhed by the name of the Three Lower Coun-
ties of Newcaftle, Suffex, and Kent, belonged formerly
to the Dutch ; but was ratified to the crown of England
by the treaty of Breda ; it was afterwards fold by the
Duke of York to the proprietor of Penfylvania, and has
continued a feparate government, though nearly under
the fame regulations with that province, ever fince. The
fame governor prefides over both ; but the afTembly,
and courts of judicature are different : different as to
their conftituent members, for in form they are nearly
alike. The afTembly confifts of eighteen perfons, elected
annually by the people ; fix for each county : this, with
the governor, forms the legifiature of the province. There
is a militia, in which all perfons, from eighteen to fifty,
are obliged to be inrolled ; and the county or Newcaftle
alone furnimes more than feven hundred.

The next day I fet out for Philadelphia, diftant about
thirty-fix miles, and arrived there in the evening. The
country all the way bore a different afpect from any
thing I had hitherto feen in America. It was much
better cultivated, and beautifully laid out into fields of
clover, grain, and flax. I pafled by a very pretty village
called Wilmington ; and rode through two others, viz*
Chefter and Derby. The Delaware river is in fight

PHILADELPHIA.

[,)

great part of the way, and is three miles broad. Upon
the whole nothing could be more pleafing than the ride
which I had this day. I ferried over the Schuilkill,
about three miles below Philadelphia ; from whence to
the city the whole country is covered with villas, gardens,
and luxuriant orchards,

Philadelphia, if we coniider that not eighty years ago
the place where it now Hands was a wild and unculti-
vated defert, inhabited by nothing but ravenous beads,
and a favage people, muft certainly be the object of every
one's wonder and admiration. It is fituated upon a
tongue of land, a few miles above the confluence of the
Delaware and Schuilkill ; and contains about 3000
houfes, and 18 or 20,000 inhabitants. It is built north
and fouth upon the banks of the Delaware; and is nearly
two miles in length, and three quarters of one in breadth.
The ftreets are laid out with great regularity in parallel,
lines, interfecled by others at right angles, and are hand-
fomely built : on each fide there is a pavement of broad
Ifones for foot paffengers ; and in moil of them a

a caul

fk

way in the middle for carriages. Upon dark nights it
is well lighted, and watched by a patrole : there are
many fair houfes, and public edifices in it. The ftadt-
houfe is a large, handfome, though heavy building ; in
this are held the councils, the aiTemblies, and fupreme
courts ; there are apartments in it alfo for the accom-
modation of Indian chiefs or fachems ; likewife two li-
1 2 braries ;

60 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

braries ; one belonging to the province, the other to a
fociety, which was incorporated about ten years ago, and
confifts of fixty members. Each member upon admif-
fion, fubfcribed forty millings ; and afterward annually
ten. They can alienate their ihares, by will or deed, to
any perfon approved by the fociety. They have a fmall.
collection of medals and medallions, and a few other
curiofities, fuch as the fkin of a rattle-fnake killed at
Surinam twelve feet long ; and feveral Northern Indian
habits made of furs and ikins. At a fmall diftance from
the ftadt-houfe, there is another fine library, confiding
of a very valuable and chofen collection of books, left by
a Mr. Logan ; they are chiefly in the learned languages.
Near this there is alfo a noble hofpital for lunatics, and
other fick perfons. Befides thefe buildings, there are
fpacious barracks for 17 or 1800 men ; a good af-
fembly-room belonging to the fociety of free-mafons ;
and eight or ten places of religious worfhip ; viz. two
churches, three quakers meeting-houfes, two preiby-
terian ditto, one Lutheran church, one Dutch Calvinift
ditto, one Swedifh ditto, one Romifh chapel, one ana-
baptift meeting-houfe, one Moravian ditto : there is alfo
an academy or college, originally built for a tabernacle
for Mr. Whitefield. At the fouth-end of the town, upon
the river, there is a battery mounting thirty guns, but
it is in a ftate of decay. It was defigned to be a check
upon privateers. Thefe, with a few alms-houfes, and a
4. fchool-

PHILADELPHIA. 6i

fchool-houfe belonging to the quakers, arc the chief
public buildings in Philadelphia. The city is in a very
flourifhing ftate, and inhabited by merchants, artifts,
tradefmen, and perfons of ail occupations. There is a
public market held twice a week, upon Wednefday and
Saturday, almoft equal to that of Leadenhall, and a tole-
rable one every day befides. The ftreets are crowded with
people, and the river with veflels. Houfes are fo dear,
that they will let for iool. currency per annum ; and
lots, not above thirty feet in breadth, and a hundred
in length, in advantageous Situations, will fell for ioool.
fterling. There are feveral docks upon the river, and
about twenty-five veffels are built there annually. I
counted upon the flocks at one time no lefs than feven-
teen, many of them three-mailed veffels *.

Can the mind have a greater pleafure than in contem-
plating the rife and progrefs of cities and kingdoms ?
Than in perceiving a rich and opulent ftate ariiing out of
a fmall fettlement or colony ? This pleafure every one
muft feel who confiders Penfylvania. — This wonderful
province is fituated between the 40th and 43d degree of
north latitude, and about 76 degrees weft longitude
from London, in a healthy and delightful climate, amidft
all the advantages that nature can beftow. The foil is
extremely ftrong and fertile, and produces fpontaneoufly
an infinite variety of trees, flowers, fruits, and plants of

* See Appendix, N° 2.

different

62 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

different forts. The mountains are enriched with ore,
and the rivers with fifh : fome of thefe are fo ftately as
not to be beheld without admiration: the Delaware is
navigable for large velTels as far as the falls, 180 miles
diftant from the fea, and 120 from the bay. At the
mouth it is more than three miles broad, and above one
at Philadelphia. The navigation is obftructed in the
winter, for about fix weeks, by the feverity of the froft ;
but, at other times, it is bold and open. The Schuilkill,
though not navigable for any great fpace, is exceedingly
romantic, and affords the moft delightful retirements.

Cultivation (comparatively fpeaking) is carried to a
high degree of perfection ; and Penfylvania produces not
only great plenty, but alfo great variety of grain ; it
yields likewife flax-feed, hemp, cattle of different kinds,
and various other articles *.

Jt is divided into eight counties, and contains many
large and populous towns: Carliile, Lancafter, and Ger-
man-town, confift each of near five hundred houfes;
there are feveral others which have from one to two
hundred.

* In the fcuthern colonies cultivation is piece of ground, allowing this a refpite of

in a very low (late. The common pro- about twenty years to recover itfelf; during

cefs of it is, firft to cut off the trees two which time it becomes beautifully covered

or three feet above ground, in order to let with Virginian pines : the feeds of that

in the fun and air, leaving the flumps to tree, which are exceedingly fmall, and,

decay and rot, which they do in a few when the cones open, are wafted through

years. After this they dig and plant, and the air in great abundance, fovving them-

continue to work the fame field, year after felves in every vacant fpot of neglefted

year, without ever manuring it, till it is ground.

quite fpent. They then enter upon a frefh.

The

PENSYLVANIA. 63

The number of inhabitants is fuppofed to be between
four and five hundred thoufand*, a fifth of which are
quakers ; there are very few Negroes or flaves.

The trade of Penfylvania is furprifingly extenfive, car-
ried on to Great Britain, the Weft Indies, every part of
North- America, the Madeiras, Lifbon, Cadiz, Holland,
Africa, the Spanim main, and feveral other places ; ex-
clufive of what is illicitly carried on to Cape Francois,
and Monte-Chrifto. Their exports are provisions of ali
kinds, lumber, hemp, flax, flax-feed, iron, furs, and
deer-fkins. Their imports, Englifh manufactures, with
the fuperfluities and luxuries of life. By their flag-of-
truce trade, they alfo get fugar, which they refine and
fend to Europe.

Their manufactures are very confiderable. The Ger-
man-town thread-fbekings are in high eftimation ; and
the year before laft, I have been credibly informed, there
were manufactured in that town alone, above 6o>ooo
dozen pair. Their common retail price is a dollar per
pair.

The Irifh fettlers make very good linens : fome wool-
lens have alfo been fabricated, but not, I believe, to any
amount. There are feveral other manufactures, viz. of
beaver hats, which are fuperior in goodnefs to any in Eu-
rope, of cordage, linfeed-oil, ftarch, myrtle-wax and

* Doubts have fince arifen, whether the amounted to more than 350,000. — See
number, at the time here mentioned, Morfes American geography.

fper-

64. TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

fpermaceti candles, foap, earthen ware, and other com-
modities.

The government of this province is a proprietary one.
The legislature is lodged in the hands of a governor, ap-
pointed (with the king's approbation) by the proprietor;
and a houfe of reprefentatives, elected by the people,
confiding of thirty-feven members. Thefe are of various
religious perfuafions ; for by the charter of privileges,
which Mr. Penn granted to the fettlers in Penfylvania,
no perfon who believed in God could be molefted in his
calling or profeffion ; and any one who believed in Jefus
Chrift might enjoy the firft poll under the government.
The crown has refer ved to itfelf a power of repealing any
law, which may interfere with the prerogative, or be
contrary to the laws of Great Britain.

The judicature confifts of different courts. The jus-
tices of the peace, who, together with the other judges,
are of the governor's appointment, hold quarterly feflions
conformable to the laws of England ; and, when thefe
are finifhed, continue to fit in quality of judges of com-
mon pleas, by a fpecial commifTion. The fupreme court
confifts of a chief juftice, and two affiftant judges ; they
have the united authority of the King's Bench, Common
Pleas, and Court of Exchequer. They not only receive
appeals, but all caufes once commenced in the inferior
courts, after the firft. writ, may be moved thither by a
habeas corpus, certiorari, writ of error, &c. The judges

of

PENSYLVANI A.' * 65

of the fupreme court have alfo a (landing and diftinct
commiflion, to hold, as mall feem needful, courts of oyer
and terminer, and general gaol-deliveries throughout the
province ; but this power they feldom, I believe, exer-
cife. The fupreme courts are held twice a year at Phi-
ladelphia. There is no Court of Chancery ; but the
want of it is fupplied, in fome meafure, by the other
courts. There is a particular officer called the regifter-
general, appointed by the governor, whofe authority ex-
tends over the whole province, where he has feveral de-
puties. He grants letters of admininration, and probates
of wills. In cafes of difpute, or caveat entered, he may
call in, as aiTiftants, two juftices of the peace. The go-
vernor can pardon in all cafes, except of treafon or mur-
der, and then can reprieve till he knows the king's
pleafure.

There is here, as in moft of the other colonies, a
Court of Vice-Admiralty, held by commiflion from the
Admiralty in England, for the trial of captures, and of
piracies, and other mifdemeanors committed upon the
high feas ; but there lies an appeal from it, I believe, Co
the Court of Delegates in England.

As to religion, there is none properly eftabiifhed ; but
Proteftants of all denominations, Papifts, Jews, and all
other feds whatfoever, are universally tolerated. There
are twelve clergymen of the church of England, who are
fent by the Society for the Propagation of the Gofpel,

k and

66 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

and are allowed annually 50 1. each, befides what they
get from fubfcriptions and furplice fees. Some few of thefe
are itinerant miflionaries, and have no fixed refidence,
but travel from place to place, as occafion requires,
upon the frontiers. They are under the jurifdiction of
the bifhop of London.

Arts and fciences are yet in their infancy. There are
fome (tw perfons who have difcovered a tafte for mufic
and painting*; and philofophy feems not only to have
made a confiderable progrefs already, but to be daily
gaining ground. The library fociety is an excellent in-
ftitution for propagating a tafte for literature; and the
college well calculated to form and cultivate it. This
laft inftitution is erected upon an admirable plan, and is
by far the beft fchool for learning throughout America.
It has been chiefly raifed by contributions; and its pre-
fent fund is about io,oool. Penfylvanian money. An
account of it may be feen in Dr. Smith's (the prefident's)
Difcourfes. The quakers alfo have an academy for in-
ftructing their youth in clailical learning, and practical
mathematics: there are three teachers, and about feventy
boys in it. Befides thefe, there are feveral fchools in the
province for the Dutch and other foreign children; and a
confiderable one is going to be erected at German-town.

The Penfylvanians, as to character, are a frugal and

* Mr. Benjamin Weft, prefident of the Royal Academy, was, I believe, a native of
Penfylvania, if not of Philadelphia.

induf-

PENSYLVAN I A. f7

induftrious people : not remarkably courteous and hof-
pitable to Grangers, unlefs particularly recommended to
them ; but rather, like the denizens of moff. commercial
cities, the reverfe. They are great republicans, and have
fallen into the fame errors in their ideas of independency
as moft of the other colonies have. They are by far the
moil enterpriflng people upon the continent. As they
confifr. of feveral nations, and talk feveral languages, they
are aliens in fome refpecT: to Great Britain : nor can it be
expedled that they mould have the fame filial attachment
to her which her own immediate offspring have. How-
ever, they are quiet, and concern themfelves but little,
except about getting money. The women are exceed-
ingly handfome and polite ; they are naturally fprightly
and fond of pleafure ; and, upon the whole, are much
more agreeable and accomplifhed than the men. Since
their intercourfe with the Englim officers, they are
greatly improved ; and, without flattery, many of them
would not make bad figures even in the firft aflcmblies
in Europe. Their amufements are chiefly, dancing in
the winter ; and, in the fummer, forming parties of plea-
fure upon the Schuilkill, and in the country. There is
a fociety of fixteen ladies, and as many gentlemen, called
the fiiliing company, who meet once a fortnight upon
the Schuilkill. They have a very pleafant room erected
in a romantic fituation upon the banks of that river,
where they generally dine and drink tea. There are
k 2 feveral

63 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

feveral pretty walks about it, and fome wild and rugged
rocks, which, together with the water and fine groves
that adorn the banks, form a mod beautiful and piclu-
refque fcene. There are boats and fifhing tackle of all
forts, and the company divert themfelves with walking,
fiming, going up the water, dancing, finging, converfing,
or juft as they pleafe. The ladies wear an uniform, and
appear with great eafe and advantage from the neatnefs
and fimplicity of it. The firft and moft diftinguifhed
people of the colony are of this fociety ; and* it is very
advantageous to a ftranger to be introduced to it, as he
hereby gets acquainted with the beft and moft refpecla-
ble company in Philadelphia. In the winter, when there
is fnow upon the ground, it is ufual to make what they
call fieighing parties, or to go upon it in fledges ; but as
this is a practice well known in Europe, it is needlefs to
defcribe it.

The prefent ftate of Penfylvania is undoubtedly very
ilourifhing. The country is well cultivated, and there
are not lefs than 9000 waggons employed in it, in dif-
ferent fervices. Till, this war they were exempt from
taxes ; and it was not without difficulty that the quakers
were prevailed upon to grant any fupplies for the defence
of the frontiers, though expofed to the moft horrid cru-
elties : it was not from principle, fay their enemies, that
they refufed it, but from intereft ; for as they were the
firft fettlers, they chiefly occupy the interior and lower
3 parts

PENSYLVANIA. 69

parts of the province, and are not expofed to incurfions.
At length, however, compelled by clamour and public
difcontent, they were obliged to pafs a fupply bill for
100,000 1. to raife five and twenty hundred men; and
thefe they have kept up ever fmce ; they afterward paffed
a militia bill, but it was fuch an one as anfwered no
good purpofe. The quakers have much the greateft in-
fluence in the affembly, and are fupported there by the
Dutch and Germans, who are as adverfe to taxes as
themfelves. Their power, however, at prefent feems ra-
ther on the decline ; which is the reafon, as the oppofite
party pretend, that they ftir up on all occaiions as much
confufion as poflible, from that trite maxim in politics,
divide et impera. They have quarrelled with the pro-
prietors upon feveral occafions, whether altogether juftly
or not, I will not pretend to fay ; it is certain, however,
that the determinations at home have been fometimes in
their favour. The late fubjedts of their difputes have
been chiefly thefe :

Firft, Whether the proprietary lands ought to be taxed?
This has been determined at home in the affirmative.

Secondly, Whether the proprietor ought to have any
choice or approbation of the aflefTors ?

Thirdly, Whether he ought to give his governor in-
ftruc~Uons ? And,

Laftly, Whether the judges of his appointment ought

to

70 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

to be during pleafure, or quamdiu fe bene gefferint ?
Thefe three lafl: are ftill undecided.

Upon the whole, though this province is exceedingly
flouriihing, yet there are certainly great abufes in it ;
and fuch as, if not fpeedily rectified, will be productive
of bad confequences.

The difference of exchange between bills and the cur-
rency of Penfylvania, is about 75 per cent.

An occurrence happened to me at Philadelphia, which,
though in itfelf of a trifling nature, I cannot but take
notice of, as a lingular inftance of the ftrong pofTeilion
which an idea will fometimes take of the mind ; fo as
totally to derange it. A lady from Rhode- J Hand, who
lodged in the fame houfe with myfelf, had an unfortu-
nate brother in the infirmary, a lunatic. He was fup-
pofed to be nearly well, and was permitted occasionally
to fee company. A few days before I was to leave Phi-
ladelphia, this lady invited me to accompany her in one
of her viiits to him ; adding, that on her inadvertently
mentioning to him fome circumftances relating to me,
he had expreffed a moft earned defire to fee me. I
ftrongly objected to the propofal, urging the impropriety
of introducing a flranger, or, indeed, company of any
fort, to a perfon in that unhappy fituation ; as it might
poilibly agitate his mind, and retard his recovery. I
advifed her therefore not to take any further notice of
it ; hoping he might forget, or not mention it any more.

The

P E N S Y L V A N I A. 7i

The next day flie renewed her application, adding, that
her brother was exceedingly disappointed ; and intrcated
me to attend her, in fo prefling a manner, that I could
not with civility refufe it. On entering the cell, a beam
of fatisfaclion feemed to dart from his eye, not cafy to
be expreffed or conceived. I took him by the hand;
and, ieating myfclf opposite the bed to which he was
chained, immediately took the lead in converfation, talk-
ing of indifferent matters, fuch as I thought could not
poffibly tend to intereft or difTurb his mind. I had not
proceeded far when he fuddenly interrupted me ; and
propofed a queftion, which at once convinced me that
he was in a very unlit ftate to fee company. I imme-
diately therefore rofe up; and making an excufe that my
engagements that day would not admit of my entering
into fo curious a fubjeel, deiired him to referve it for
fome future converfation. He feemed greatly difcon-
certed ; but being near the door, which flood open, I
took my leave and retired. The next morning I left
Philadelphia ; nor did I think any more oi this occur-
rence till I arrived at Rhode-Iiland ; where I was in-
formed, that the chief, if not fole, inflances of infanity
fliewn by this unhappy young man, were fome attempts
which he had made to kill a clergyman of the church
of England. That he had been educated to be a teacher
amongft the congregationalifts, but had taken it into his
head, that he could never train heaven, or be happy, but

by

r-

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

by committing fo heroic and meritorious an action. The
very evening of his confinement he was prevented from
fulfilling his purpofe, in the inftant when he was raifing
up his hand to plunge a knife into the back of a clergy-
man, who was reading the funeral fervice, in the prefence
of a large congregation. What his intentions were in
regard to myfelf, I cannot pretend to fay ; he offered me
no violence : but thofe at Rhode-Ifland of his acquaint-
ance, to whom I related this tranfaction, were fully per-
fuaded that he was far from being cured of his dif-
temper *.

* Since my return to Europe, I have
been informed of an inftance fimilar to
this, which happened at Florence. A
gentleman had taken it into his head that
a very large diamond lay buried under a
mountain which flood upon his eftate, and
was near ruining himfelf and his family by
digging for it. His friends, by fome con-
trivance or other, got him away to Flo-
rence, and placed him under the care of
the late celebrated Dr. Cocchi. He there
appeared perfectly compofed, talked very
rationally, and, having been well educated,
afforded great entertainment to the dodlor
and his friends, who converfed with him.
One day as they were fitting together, he
mentioned to the doctor, that it was very
hard he mould be deprived of his liberty,
when he was perfectly well ; and that it
was only a fcheme of his relations to keep
him in confinement, in order that they
might enjoy his eftate. The doftor, wh0
had perceived no marks of infanity, began

to be daggered ; and promifed, in cafe he
mould fee no reafon to alter his fentiments,
to fign a certificate of his being well on
fuch a day, in order to its being fent to
England, that he might have his releafe.
The day arrived, and the dodlor was pre-
paring to perform his promife; but, whe-
ther by defign on perceiving fomething
particular in the looks of his patient, or by
accident, I could not learn, he faid to the
gentleman ; " Now, Sir, I beg from this
" time that you will think no more of this
" foolifti affair of the mountain and dia-
" mond." " Not think of the diamond,"
faid the madman ; " it is for this reafon
" that I want my liberty; I know exactly
" the fpot where it lies; and I will have it
" in my poffeffion, before I am a year
" older."

This ftory was related to me in Tuf-
cany, and I had no reafon to c;ueftion the
truth of it.

Heft

PRINCE-TOWN.

■'.

I left Philadelphia the 6th of July, and travelled in
the ftage as far as Shcminey-ferry, about fcventccn miles;
where I was overtaken by a gentleman and fome ladies
of my acquaintance, who were going a few miles farther
upon a party of pleafure, They were (o obliging as to
make room for me in one of their chaifes, and we pro-
ceeded and dined together at Briftol, a fmall town upon
the Delaware, oppolite Burlington : in the afternoon we
went ten miles higher up the river, and ferried over to
Trenton, fituated in the Jerfeys. This is built on the
eaft fide of the Delaware, and contains about a hundred
houfes. It has nothing remarkable ; there is a church,
a quakers and prefbyterian meeting-houfe, and barracks
for three hundred men. From hence we went to Sir
John Sinclair's, at the Falls of Delaware, about a mile
above Trenton, a pleafant rural retirement ; where we
fpent a moft agreeable evening. In the morning, the
company returned to Philadelphia ; and, having hired a
chaife, I proceeded to Prince- town, twelve miles diftant.

At this place, there is a handfome fchool and college
for the education of diffenters ; erected upon the plan of
thofe in Scotland. There are about twenty boys in the
grammar- fchool, and fixty in the college : at prefent
there are only two profelTors, befides the provoft ; but
they intend, as their fund increafes, which is yet very
fmall, and does not exceed 2000 1. currency, to add to
this number. The building is extremely convenient,
l airy,

74 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

airy, and fpacious ; and has a chapel and other proper
offices. Two ftudents are in each fet of apartments,
which confifts of a large bed-room with a fire-place, and
two ftudies. There is a fmall collection of books, a few
inftruments, and fome natural curiofities. The expence
to a ftudent for room-rent, commons, and tutorage,
amounts to 2 5 1. currency per year. The provoft has a
falary of 200 1. currency, and the profefibrs 50 1. each.
The name of the college is Naffau-Hall. — From hence,
in the afternoon, I proceeded to Brunfwick, eighteen
miles farther, a fmall town of about a hundred houfes,
fituated upon Raritan river ; where there are alfo very
neat barracks for 300 men, a church, and a prefby-
terian meeting-houfe. It is celebrated for the number
of its beauties ; and, indeed, at this place and Philadel-
phia, were the handfomeft women that I faw in America.
At a fmall diftance from the town is a copper-mine be-
longing to a Mr. French, (I was told) a pretty good one.
The next day I rode up the river, about nine miles to
the Raritan hills, to fee a fmall cafcade, which falls about
fifteen or twenty feet, very romanticly, from between
two rocks. The country I paffed through is exceedingly
rich and beautiful ; and the banks of the river are co-
vered with gentlemen's houfes. At one of thefe 1 had
an opportunity of feeing fome good portraits of Vandyke,
and feveral other fmall Dutch paintings.

On Monday the 7 th, I proceeded to Perth- Amboy,

twelve

PASAIC-FALLS.

75

twelve miles, the capital of the Eaft- Jerfeys, which is
plcafantly fituated upon a neck of land, included be-
tween the Raritan and Amboy rivers and a large open
bay. This is generally the place of the governor's refi-
dence; and alternately, here and at Burlington, the capital
of the Weft- Jerfeys, are held the aflemblies, and other
public meetings ; it contains about a hundred houfes,
and has very fine barracks for 300 men. In the after-
noon I travelled fixteen miles farther to Elizabeth-town,
leaving Woodbridge, a fmall village where there is a print-
ing-office, a little on my right hand. Elizabeth-town,
is built upon a fmall creek or river that falls into Newark-
bay, and contains between two and three hundred houfes.
It has a court-houfe, a church, and a meeting-houfe ; and
barracks alfo like thofe abovementioned.

The next morning I rode out, in order to vifit Pafaic
Falls, diftant about twenty-three miles, and had a very-
agreeable tour. After riding fix miles, I came to
a town called Newark, built in an irregular fcattered
manner, after the fafhion of fome of our villages in Eng-
land, near two miles in length. It has a church erected
in the Gothic tafte with a fpire, the firft I had feen in
America ; and fome other inconfiderable public build-
ings. Immediately on my leaving this place, I came
upon the banks of Second, or Pafaic river, along which
I travelled feventeen or eighteen miles to the Falls,
through a rich country, interfperfed with fine fields and
gentlemen's feats.

l 2 The

76 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

The Falls are "very extraordinary, different from any
I had hitherto met with in America. The river is
about forty yards broad, and runs with a very fwift
current, till coming to a deep chafm or cleft which
croffes the channel, it falls above feventy feet perpendi-
cular in one intire meet. One end of the cleft is clofed
up, and the water rumes out at the other with incredible
rapidity, in an acute angle to its former direction ; and
is received into a large bafon. Hence it takes a winding
courfe through the rocks, and fpreads again into a very
confiderable channel. The cleft is from four to twelve
feet broad. The fpray formed two beautiful (viz. the
primary and fecondary) rainbows, and helped to make as
fine a fcene as imagination could conceive. This extra-
ordinary phenomenon is fuppofed to have been produced
by an earthquake. The fate of two Indians is delivered
down by tradition, who, venturing too near the Falls in
a canoe, were carried down the precipice, and darned to
pieces. Thirty or forty yards above the great Fall, is
another, a moft beautiful one, gliding over fome ledges
of rocks each two or three feet perpendicular, which
heightens the fcene very much.

From hence I returned, and in my way croffed over
the river to colonel John Schuyler's copper-mines, where
there is a very rich vein of ore, and a fire-engine ere&ed
upon common principles.

After this I went down two miles farther to the park
and gardens of this gentleman's brother, colonel Peter

Schuyler.

NEWJERSEY. 77

Schuyler. In the gardens is a very large collection of
citrons, oranges, limes, lemons, balfams of Peru, aloes,
pomegranates, and other tropical plants ; and in the park
I faw feveral American and Englifh deer, and three or
four elks or moofe-deer. I arrived at Elizabeth-town
in the evening, not a little entertained with my expedi-
tion, but exceedingly fatigued with the violent heat of
the weather, and the many mofquitoes that had infefted
me.

Before I take leave of the Jerfeys, it is necefTary I
fhould give fome account of this province. New Jerfey
is fituated between the 39th and 4 2d degree of north
latitude, and about feventy-five degrees weft longitude :
it is bounded on the eaft by the Atlantic, on the weft
by Penfylvania, or to fpeak more properly the Delaware;
on the fouth by Delaware-bay ; and on the north by
Hudfon's river and the province of New York. The
climate is nearly the fame as that of Penfylvania : and
the foil, which is a kind of red Hate, is fo exceedingly
rich, that in a fhort time after it has been turned up and
expofed to the air and moifture, it is converted into a
fpecies of marie *.

* Since my return from America, I faid, it appeared to be of a red flaty fub-

have met with a gentleman (Edward fiance, fterile, and incapable of producing

Wortley Montagu, efq.) who had vifited any thing worth the cultivation; but that

the Holy Land. He defcribed the foil of being broken up and expofed to the air, it

that country to be fimilar in almoft every became exceedingly mellow, and was fertile

circumftance to this of the Jerfeys. He in the higheft degree.

New

78 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

New Jerfey has very great natural advantages of hills,
valleys, rivers, and large bays. The Delaware is on one
fide, and Hudfon's river on the other ; befides which it
has the Raritan, Pafaic, and Amboy rivers ; and Newark
and New York bays. It produces vaft quantities of
grain, befides hemp, flax, hay, Indian corn, and other
articles. It is divided into eleven counties, and has
feveral fmali towns, though not one of confideration.
The number of its inhabitants is fuppofed to be 70,000 :
of which, all males between fixteen and fixty, Negroes
excepted, are obliged to ferve in the militia. There is
no foreign trade carried on from this province ; for the
inhabitants fell their produce to the merchants of Phila-
delphia and New York, and take in return European
goods and other neceffaries of life. They have fome
trifling manufactures of their own, but nothing that
deferves mentioning.

The government confifts of a governor, twelve coun-
fellors, and a houfe of reprefentatives of about twenty-fix
members, the two former nominated by the king, the
latter eledled by the people. Each branch has a nega-
tive ; they meet at Amboy and at Burlington alternately.
The governor's falary, with perquintes, is about 800, or
1000 1. fterling a year ; he is not allowed a houfe to re-
fide in, but is obliged to hire one at his own expence.
There are feveral courts of judicature here, much like
thofe of the other provinces. The juftices hold quarterly

feflions

NEWJERSEY. 79

fefTions for petty larcenies, and trifling caufes : and the
fupreme judge, with two afTiftant juftices, holds, once a
year, a general aflize, throughout the province, of oyer
and terminer, and common pleas. He holds alfo an-
nually four fupreme courts, alternately at Amboy and
Burlington, of king's-bench, common-pleas, and exche-
quer. The offices of chancellor and vice-admiral, are
executed by the governor ; and the dernier refort is to his
majefty in council.

There is properly no eftablimed religion in this pro-
vince, and the inhabitants are of various perfuafions: the
fociety fends fix miflionaries, who are generally well re-
ceived j and the church gains ground daily. Their
falaries are about the fame as in Penfylvania.

Arts and fciences are here, as in the other parts of
America, jufl dawning. The college will in time, with-
out doubt, be of considerable advantage, but being yet in
its infancy, it has not had an opportunity of operating,
or effecting any viable improvement.

The New Jerfey men, as to charafter, are like mod
country gentlemen ; good-natured, hofpitable, and of a
more liberal turn than their neighbours the Penfylvanians.
They live altogether upon their eftates, and are literally
gentlemen farmers. The country in its prefent ftate can
fcarcely be called flourifhing ; for although it is ex-
tremely well cultivated, thickly feated, and the garden
of North America, yet, having no foreign trade, it is de-
prived

So TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

prived of thofe riches and advantages, which it would
otherwife foon acquire. There have been fome attempts
to remedy this defect ; but whether from the difficulty of
diverting a thing out of a channel in which it has long
flowed ; or from want of propriety or perfeverance, in
the meafures, I am unable to fay ; but the truth is, they
have not fucceeded. Upon the whole, however, this
province may be caiied a rich one : during the prefent
war it has railed confiderable fupplies, having feldom had
lefs than iooo men in pay, with a leader (colonel
Schuyler) at their head, who has done honour to his
country by his patriotic and public fpirit. The paper
currency of this colony is at about 70 per cent, difcount,
but in very good repute; and preferred by the Penfyl-
vanians and New-Yorkers, to that of their own pro-
vinces.

On Wednefday the 9th of July, I crofTed over to Sta-
ten Ifland, in the province of New York ; and travelled
upon it about nine miles to the point which is oppofite
New York city.

In my way I had an opportunity of feeing the me-
thod of making wampum. This, the reader probably
knows is the current money amongft the Indians. It is
made of the clam-fliell ; a ihell, coniifting within of two
colours, purple and white ; and in form not unlike a
thick oyfter-inell. The procefs of manufacturing it is
very fimple. It is firft clipped to a proper fize, which
4- is

■ N E W Y O R K. Si

is that of a fmall oblong parallelopiped, then drilled, and
afterward ground to a round fmooth furface, and po-
lifned. The purple wampum is much more valuable
than the white ; a v.ery fmall part of the fhell being of
that colour.

At the point I embarked for New York ; and, after a
pleafant paiTage over the bay, which is three leagues
wide ; and various delightful profpects of rivers, iflands,
fields, hills, woods, the Narrows, New York city, vefTels
failing to and fro, and innumerable porpoifes playing
upon the furface of the water, in an evening fo ferene
that the hemifphere was not ruffled by a fingle cloud,
arrived there about the fetting of the fun.

This city is fituated upon the point of a fmall ifland,
lying open to the bay on one fide, and on the others in-
cluded between the North and Eaft rivers ; and com-
mands a fine profpecl of water, the Jerfeys, Long Ifland,
Staten Ifland, and feveral others, which lie fcattered in
the bay. It contains between two and three thoufand
houfes, and 16 or 17,000 inhabitants, is tolerably well
built, and has feveral good houfes. The ftreets are
paved, and very clean, but in general narrow ; there are
two or three, indeed, which are fpacious and airy, par-
ticularly the Broad- Way. The houfes in this ftreet have
moll of them a row of trees before them ; which form an
agreeable fhade, and produce a pretty effect. The whole
length of the town is fomething more than a mile ; the
m breadth

8a TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

breadth of it about half an one. The fituation is, I be-
lieve, efteemed healthy ; but it is fubject to one great in-
convenience, which is the want of frefh. water ; fo that
the inhabitants are obliged to have it brought from
fprings at fome diftance out of town. There are feveral
public buildings, though but few that deferve attention.
The college, when finiQied, will be exceedingly hand-
fome: it is to be built on three fides of a quadrangle,
fronting Hudibn's or North river, and will be the moil
beautifully fituated of any college, I believe, in the
world. At prefent only one wing is finiihed, which is
of Rone, and confifts of twenty-four fets of apartments ;
each having a large fitting-room, with a ftudy, and bed-^
chamber. They are obliged to make ufe of fome of
thefe apartments for a matter's lodge, library, chapel,
hall, &c. but as foon as the whole fhall be completed,
there will be proper apartments for each of thefe offices.
The name of it is King's College.

There are two churches in New York, the old or
Trinity Church, and the new one, or St. George's Cha-
pel ; both of them large buildings, the former in the
Gothic tafte, with a fpire, the other upon the model of
fome of the new churches in London. Befides thefe,
there are feveral other places of religious worfhip ;
namely, two Low Dutch Calvinift churches, one High
Dutch ditto, one French ditto, one German Lutheran
church, one prefbyterian meeting-houfe, one quakers

dittoa

N E W YORK. 83

ditto, one anabaptifts ditto, one Moravian ditto, and a
Jews fynagogue. There is alfo a very handfome charity-
ichool for fixty poor boys and girls, a good work-houfe,
barracks for a regiment of foldiers, and one of the fineft
prifons I have ever feen. The court or ftadt-houfe
makes no great figure, but it is to be repaired and beau-
tified. There is a quadrangular fort, capable of mount-
ing fixty cannon, though at prefent there are, I believe,
only thirty-two. Within this is the governor's palace,
and underneath it a battery capable of mounting ninety-
four guns, and barracks for a company or two of iol-
diers. Upon one of the iflands in the bay is an hofpital
for lick and wounded feamen ; and, upon another, a
peft-houfe. Thefe are the moft noted public buildings
in and about the city.

The province of New York is fituated between the
40th and 45th degree of north latitude, and about 75
degrees weft longitude. It lies in a fine climate, and en-
joys a very wholefome air. The foil of moft parts of it
is extremely good, particularly of Long Ifland : and it
has the advantages of a fine harbour, and fine rivers.
The bay has a communication with Newark bay, the
Sound, Amboy river, and feveral others : it receives alfo
Hudfon's or North river, one of the largeft in North-
. America, it being navigable for iloops as far as Albany,
above 1 50 miles : whence, by the Mohock, and other
rivers, running through the country of the Six Nations,
there is a communication, (excepting a few fliort carry-
m 2 ing

84 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

ing places,) with lake Ontario ; and another with the
river St. Laurence, through the lakes George, Champlain,
and the river Sorel ; fo that this river feems to merit the
greateft attention. Thefe waters afford various kinds of
fifh, black-fifh, fea-bafs, fheeps-heads, rock-fifh, lobfters,
and feveral others, all excellent in their kind. The pro-
vince in its cultivated ftate affords grain of all forts, cat-
tle, hogs, and great variety of Englifh fruits, particularly
the New-town pippin. It is divided into ten counties,
and has fome few towns, but none of any fize, except
Albany and Schenectady, the former of which is a very
considerable place. The number of inhabitants amounts
to nearly 100,000 ; 15 or 20,000 of which are fuppofed
to be capable of bearing arms, and of ferving in the
militia ; but I believe this number is exaggerated, as a
confiderable part of the 100,000 are Negroes, which are
imported more frequently into this province than into
Penfylvania. The people carry on an extensive trade,
and there are faid to be cleared out annually from New
York, * tons of {hipping. They export chiefly
grain, flour, pork, fkins, furs, pig-iron, lumber, and
ilaves. Their manufactures, indeed, are not extenfive,
nor by any means to be compared with thofe of Penfyl-
vania ; they make a fmall quantity of cloth, fome linen,
hats, fhoes, and other articles for wearing apparel. They
make glafs alfo, and wampum ; refine fugars, which they

* See Appendix, N° 2>

import

N E W Y O R K. 85

import from the Weft Indies ; and diftil confiderable
quantities of rum. They alfo, as well as the Penfyl-
vanians, till both were reftrained by ad of parliament,
had erected feveral flitting mills, to make nails, &c. But
this is now prohibited, and they are exceedingly diffatis-
fied at it. They have feveral other branches of manu-
factures, but, in general, fo inconsiderable, that I fhall
not take notice of them : one thing it may be neceffary
to mention, I mean the article of {hip-building ; about
which, in different parts of the province, they employ
many hands *.

The government of this colony is lodged in the hands
of a governor appointed by the crown ; a council con-
Ming of twelve members, named by the fame autho-
rity ; and a houfe of tvventy-feve'n reprefentatives, elected
by the people : four for the city and county of New
York ; two for the city and county of Albany ; two for
each of the other eight counties ; one for the borough of
Weft-Chefter ; one for the townihip of Sheneclady ; and
one for each of the three manors of Renflaerwyck,
Livingfton, and Courtland. The legiflative power is in-
tirely lodged in their hands, each branch having a nega-
tive; except that, as in the other colonies, all laws rauft
have the king's approbation, and not interfere with, or
be repugnant to, the laws of Great Britain.

The courts of judicature are fimilar, I believe, in
every refpect, to thofe in the Jerfeys.

* See Appendix, N° 2.

The

S6 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

The eftablifhed religion is that of the church of Eng-
land, there being fix churches in this province with fti-
pends (to the value of about 50 1. currency) annexed to
each by law. The clergy are twelve in number, who,
exclufive of what they acquire by the eftablifhment
above-mentioned, or by contributions, receive, as mif-
fionaries from the Society for the Propagation of the
Gofpel, 50 1. fterling each. Befides the religion of the
church of England, there is a variety of others : diffenters
of all denominations, particularly prefbyterians, abound
in great numbers, and there are fome few Roman Ca-
tholics.

Arts and fciences have made no greater progrefs here
than in the other colonies ; but as a fubfcription library
has been lately opened, and every one feems zealous to
promote learning, it may be hoped they will hereafter
advance fafter than they have done hitherto. The col-
lege is eftablifhed upon the fame plan as that in the Jer-
feys, except that this at New York profeffes the prin-
ciples of the church of England. At prefent the ftate
of it is far from being flourifliing, or fo good as might
be wifhed. Its fund does not exceed 10,000 1. cur-
rency, and there is a great fcarcity of profeffors. A com-
mencement was held, neverthelefs, this fummer, and
feven gentlemen took degrees. There are in it at this
time about twenty-five ftudents. The prefident, Dr.
Johnfon, is a very worthy and learned man, but rather

too

N E W Y O R K. 87

too far advanced in life to have the direction of fo new
an inftitution. The late Dr. Briftow left to this college
a fine library, of which they are in daily expectation.

The inhabitants of New York, in their character, very-
much refemble the Penfylvanians : more than half of
them are Dutch, and almoft all traders : they are, there-
fore, habitually frugal, induftrious, and parfimonious.
Being, however, of different nations, different languages,
and different religions, it is almoft impofllble to give
them any precife or determinate character. The women
are handfome and agreeable ; though rather more refer ved
than the Philadelphian ladies. Their amufements are
much the fame as in Penfylvania ; viz. balls, and Weigh-
ing expeditions in the winter ; and, in the fummer,
going in parties upon the water, and fifhing ; or making
excurfions into the country. There are feveral houfes
pleafantly fituated upon Eaft river, near New York, where
it is common to have turtle-feafts : thefe happen once or
twice in a week. Thirty or forty gentlemen and ladies
meet and dine together, drink tea in the afternoon, fiffi
and amufe themfelves till evening, and then return home
in Italian chaifes, (the fafhionable carriage in this and
moft parts of America, Virginia excepted, where they
chiefly make ufe of coaches, and thefe commonly drawn
by fix horfes), a gentleman and lady in each chaife. In
the way there is a bridge, about three miles diltant from
New York, which you always pafs over as you return,

called

SS TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

called the KiiTing-bridge ; where it is a part of the eti-
quette to falute the lady who has put herfelf under your
protection.

The prefent ftate of this province is flourishing : it has
an extenfive trade to many parts of the world, particu-
larly to the Weft Indies ; and has acquired great riches
by the commerce which it has carried on, under flags of
truce, to Cape Francois, and Monte-Chrifto. The troops,
by having made it the place of their general rendezvous,
have alfo enriched it very much. However, it is bur-
thened with taxes, and the prefent public debt amounts
to more than 300,0001. currency. The taxes are laid
upon eftates real and perfonal ; and there are duties
upon Negroes, and other importations. The provincial
troops are about 2,600 men. The difference of exchange
between currency and bills, is from 70 to 80 per cent.

Before I left New York, I took a ride upon Long-
liland, the richeft fpot, in the opinion of the New
Yorkers, of all America ; and where they generally have
their villas, or country houfes. It is undeniably beau-
tiful, and fome parts of it are remarkably fertile, but not
equal, I think, to the Jerfeys. The length of it is fome-
thing more than 100 miles, and the breadth 25. About
1 5 or 1 6 miles from the weft end of it, there opens a large
plain between 20 and 30 miles long, and 4 or 5 broad.
There is not a tree growing upon it, and it is aflerted
that there never were any. Strangers are always carried
8 to

N E W P O R T. 89

to fee this place, as a great curiofity, and the only one
of the kind in North America.

Tuefday the 5th of Auguft, being indifpofed, and
unable to travel any farther by land, I embarked on
board a brigantine for Rhode Ifland. We made fail up
the Sound with a fair wind, and after two hours,
patted through Hell-gate. It is impoflible to go through
this place without recalling to mind the defcription of
Scylla and Charybdis. The breadth of the Sound is here
half a mile, but the channel is very narrow, not
exceeding eighty yards : the water runs with great rapi-
dity, and in different currents, only one of which will
carry a vefTel through with fafety ; for, on one fide, there
is a fhoal of rocks juft peeping above the water ; and,
on the other, a dreadful vortex produced by a rock lying
about nine feet under the furface : if therefore you get
into any but the right current, you are either darned
upon the fhoal, or elfe fucked into the eddy, whirled
round with incredible rapidity, and at length fwallowed
up in the vortex. There are exceeding good pilots
to navigate veffels through this place, notwithftanding
which, they are frequently loft. The proper time of
palling it is at high water. We had pleafant weather
during the paffage, which is about feventy leagues, with
beautiful views of Long Ifland and Connecticut ; and
arrived in the harbour at Newport the 7th of Auguft.

This town is fituated upon a fmall ifland, about
n twelve

9o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

twelve miles in length, and five or fix in breadth, called
Rhode Ifland, whence the province takes its name. It
is the capital city, and contains 800, or icoo houfes,
chiefly built of wood ; and 6 or 7000 inhabitants.
There are few buildings in it worth notice. The court-
houfe is indeed handfome, and of brick ; and there is a
public library, built in the form of a Grecian temple,
by no means inelegant. It is of the Doric order, and
has a portico in front with four pillars, fupporting a
pediment ; but the whole is fpoilt by two fmall wings,
which are annexed to it. The foundation of a very
pretty building is laid for the ufe of the free-mafons, to
ferve alfo occalionally for an affembly-room ; and there
is going to be erected a market-houfe, upon a very
elegant defign. The places of public worfhip, except
the Jews fynagogue, are all of wood ; and not one
of them is worth looking at. They connft chiefly of a
church, two prefbyterian meeting-houfes, one quakers
ditto, three anabaptifts ditto,- one Moravian ditto, and
the fynagogue abovementioned. This building was de-
signed, as indeed were feveral of the others, by a Mr.
Harrifon, an ingenious Englifh gentleman who lives here.
It will be extremely elegant within when completed :
but the outfide is totally fpoilt by a fchool, which the
Jews would have annexed to it for the education of their
children. — Upon a fmall ifland, before the town, is part
of a line fortification, defigned to connft of a pentagon

fort,

RHODE ISLAND.

91

fort, and an upper and lower battery. Only two of the
curtains, and a ravelin, are yet fmifhed ; and it is doubted
whether the whole will ever be completed. There are
now mounted upon it 26 cannon; but the works, when
complete, will require above 150. — At the entrance of
the harbour there is likewife an exceeding good light-
houfe. — Thefe are the chief public buildings.

Three miles from the town is an indifferent wooden
houfe, built by dean Berkley, when he was in thefe
parts : the fituation is low, but commands a fine view
of the ocean, and of fome wild rugged rocks that are
on the left hand of it. They relate here feveral (lo-
ries of the dean's wild and chimerical notions ; which,
as they are characteriitic of that extraordinary man, de-
ferve to be taken notice of: one in particular I muft
beg the reader's indulgence to allow me to repeat to
him. The dean had formed the plan of building a town
upon the rocks which I have juft now taken notice of,
and of cutting a road through a fandy beach which lies
a little below it, in order that fhips might come up and
be fheltered in bad weather. He was fo full of this pro-
ject, as one day to fay to one Smibert, a defigner, whom
he had brought over with him from Europe, on the lat-
ter's afking fome ludicrous queflion concerning the fu-
ture importance of the place ; " Truly, you have very
" little forefight, for in fiity years time every foot of-
■" land in this place will be as valuable as the land in
n 2 " Cheapiide."

92 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

" Cheapfide." The dean's houfe, notwithstanding his
prediction, is at prefent nothing better than a farm-
houfe, and his library is converted into the dairy : when
he left America, he gave it to the college at Newhaven
in Connecticut, who have let it to a farmer on a long
leafe : his books he divided between this college and
that in Maffachufets. The dean is faid to have written
in this place The Minute Philofopher.

The province of Rhode Ifland is fituated between the
41ft and 42d degree of north latitude ; and about 72 or
73 degrees weft longitude; in the moft healthy climate
of North America. The winters are fevere, though not
equally fo with thofe of the other provinces ; but the
fummers are delightful, efpecially in the ifland ; the
violent and exceflive heats, to which America is in ge-
neral fubjecl, being allayed by the cool and temperate
breezes that come from the fea. The foil is tole-
rably good, though rather too ftony ; its natural
produce is maize or Indian corn, with a variety of
fhrubs and trees. It produces in particular the button-
tree * ; the fpruce-pine, of the young twigs of which is
made excellent beer ; and the pfeudo-acacia, or locust-
tree ; but none of thofe fine flowering trees, which are
fuch an ornament to the woods in Carolina and Vir-
ginia. It enjoys many advantages, has feveral large rivers,
and one of the fineft harbours in the world. Fim are in

* See Appendix, N° I.

the

RHODEISLAND. 93

the greateft plenty and perfection, particularly the tataag
or black-fifh, lobfters, and fea bafs. In its cultivated
ftate, it produces very little, except fheep and horned
cattle ; the whole province being laid out into pafture
or grazing ground. The horfes are bony and ftrong,
and the oxen much the largeft in America ; feveral of
them weighing from 16 to 1800 weight. The butter
and cheefe are excellent.

The province of Rhode Iiland is divided into counties
and townfhips ; of the former there are four or five, but
they are exceedingly fmall ; of the latter between twenty
and thirty ; the towns themfelves are inconfiderable vil-
lages : however, they fend members to the affembly, in
the whole about feventy. The number of inhabitants,
with Negroes, and Indians, of which in this province
there are feveral hundreds, amounts to 35,000, As
the province affords but few commodities for exporta-
tion ; horfes, provilions, and an inconfiderable quantity
of grain, with fpermaceti candles, being the chief arti-
cles ; they are obliged to Connecticut, and the neigh-
bouring colonies, for moft of their traffic ; and by their
means they carry on an exteniive trade. Their mode of
commerce is this ; they trade to Great Britain, Holland,
Africa, the Weft Indies, and the neighbouring colonies;
from each of which places they import the following
articles ; from Great Britain, dry goods; from Holland,
money; from Africa, Haves; from the Weft indies,

fugars,

9* TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

fugars, coffee, and molaffes ; and from the neighbouring
colonies, lumber and provifions : and with what they
purchafe in one place they make their returns in another.
Thus v/ith the money they get in Holland, they pay
their merchants in London ; the fugars they procure in
the Weft Indies, they carry to Holland ; the flaves they
fetch from Africa they fend to the Weft Indies, together
with lumber and provifions, which they get from the
neighbouring colonies : the rum that they diftil they ex-
port to Africa ; and with the dry goods, which they pur-
chafe in London, they traffick in the neighbouring colo-
nies. By this kind of circular commerce they fubfift and
grow rich. They have befides thefe fome other incon-
siderable branches of trade, but nothing worth mention-
ing. They have very few manufactures ; they diftil rum
and make fpermaceti candles ; but in the article of dry
goods, they are far behind the people of New York and
Penfylvania.

The government of this province is intirely demo-
cratical ; every officer, except the collector of the cuf-
toms, being appointed, I believe, either immediately by
the people, or by the general affembly. The people
chufe annually a governor, lieutenant-governor, and ten
aftiftants, which conftitute an upper-houfe. The repre-
fentatives, or lower-houfe, are elected every half year.
Thefe jointly have the appointment of all other public
officers, (except the recorder, treafurer, and attorney-ge-
neral,

RHODE ISLAND. 95

neral, which are appointed likewife annually by the peo-
ple) both military and civil ; are inverted with the pow-
ers of legiflation, of regulating the militia, and of per-
forming all other acts of government. The governor has
no negative, but votes with the afliftants, and in cafe of
an equality has a calling voice. The affembly, or two
houfes unired, are obliged to fit immediately after each
election •, at Newport in the fummer, and in the winter
alternately at Providence and South Kinglton in Narra-
ganfet : they adjourn themfelves, but may be called to-
gether, notwithstanding fuch adjournment, upon any ur-
gent occafion by the governor. No afliftant, or repre-
fentative, is allowed any falary or pay for his attendance
or fervice.

There are feveral courts of judicature. The afTembly
nominates annually fo many juftices for each town (hip,
as are deemed neceffary. Thefe have power to join peo-
ple in matrimony, and to exercife other acts of authority
ufually granted to this order of magiftrates. Any two
of them may hear caufes concerning fmall debts and tref-
paffes ; and three may try criminals for thefts, not
exceeding ten pounds currency. Appeals in civil caufes
are allowed to the inferior courts of common-pleas ; in
criminal ones to the feffions of the peace ; and in thefe
the determinations are final. — The feffions are held in
each county twice every year by five or more juftices ;
they adjudge all matters relating to the preservation of

the

96 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

the peace, and the punifnment of criminals, except in
cafes or death. Appeals are allowed from this court, in
all caufes that have originated in it, to the fuperior one.
— The inferior courts of common-pleas fit twice every
year in each county, and are held by three or more juf-
tices. They take cognizance of all civil caufes whatfo-
ever, triable at common law ; and if any one thinks him-
ielf aggrieved here, he may appeal to the fuperior one ;
which is held alfo annually twice in each county, by three
judges, and which exercifes all the authority of a court of
king's-bench, common-pleas, and exchequer. The der-
nier refort is to the king in council, but this only in cafes
of 300 1. value, new tenor. The people have the power
of pardoning criminals, except in cafes of piracy, mur-
der, or high treafon ; and then it is doubted whether
they can even reprieve.

There is no eftablifhed form of religion here; but
church of England men, independents, quakers, anabap-
tifts, Moravians, Jews, and all other feels whatfoever,
have liberty to exercife their feveral profeflions. The
Society for the Propagation of the Gofpel fends only four
miflionaries.

Arts and fciences are almofl: unknown, except to fome

few individuals ; and there are no public feminaries of

learning ; nor do the Rhode lilanders in general feem to

regret the want of them. The inftitution of a library

9 fociety,

RHODE ISLAND.

97

fociety, which has lately taken place, may poiTibly in
time produce a change in thefe matters.

The character of the Rhode-Iflanders is by no means
engaging, or amiable : a circumftance principally owing
to their form of government. Their men in power, from
the higheft to the loweft, are dependent upon the peo-
ple, and frequently act without that ftridr. regard to pro-
bity and honour, which ought invariably to influence
and direct mankind. The private people are cunning,
deceitful, and felfifh : they live almoft intirely by unfair
and illicit trading, Their magiftrates are partial and
corrupt : and it is folly to expect juftice in their courts
of judicature ; for he, who has the greateft influence, is
generally found to have the faireft caufe *. Were the
governor to interpofe his authority, were he to refufe to
grant flags of truce f, or not to wink at abufes ; he

would

* The form of their judical oath, or f It was ufual during the late war for

affirmation (fays Douglas, in his Sum- feveral governors in North America, on

mary), does not invoke the judgments of receiving a pecuniary confideration, to

the omnifcient God, who fees in fecret, grant to the merchants flags of truce; by

but only upon peril of the penalty of per- which they were licenfed to go to the

jury. — This does not feem (adds the fame French Weft Indian iflands, in order to

author in a note) to be a facred or folemn exchange prifoners. The real fcope and

oath, and may be illuftrated by the ftory of defign of the voyage was, to carry on a

two profligate thieves; one of them had prohibited trade with the French, and to

ftolen fomething, and told his friend of it : fupply them with ftores and provifions.

well, fays his friend, but did any body fee Two or three prifoners were fufficient to

you? No : then, fays his friend, it is yours cover the defign; and in order to have a

as much as if you had bought it with your ftore in readinefs, they feldom carried more.

money. Vol. ii. p. 95. By this abufe both governors aod mer-

O chants

98 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

would at the expiration of the year be excluded from his
office, the only thing perhaps which he has to fubfift
upon. Were the judges to acl: with impartiality, and to
decide a caufe to the prejudice or difadvantage of any
great or popular leader, they would probably never be
re- elected ; indeed, they are incapable in general of de-
termining the merits of a fuit, for they are exceedingly
illiterate, and, where they have nothing to make them
partial, are managed almoft intirely by the lawyers. In
fhort, to give an idea of the wretched ftate of this co-
lony, it has happened more than once, that a perfon has
had fuflicient influence to procure a frefh e million of pa-
per-money, folely to defraud his creditors : for having
perhaps borrowed a considerable fum of money, when
the difference of exchange has been 1200 per cent, he
has afterward, under fanction of the law, repaid only the
fame nominal fum in new currency, when the difference
has amounted perhaps to 2500 per cent. — Such alas ! is
the fituation and character of this colony. It is needlefs,
after this, to obferve that it is in a very declining ftate ;
for it is impoffible that it mould profper under fuch

chants acquired great riches. Very plau- fumed to connive at and encourage it. —

fible arguments indeed might be adduced The honourable Francis Fauquier, lieute-

againft prohibiting, or even reftraining a nant-governor of Virginia, who, amongft

commerce of that nature: but as the wif- fome few others, never could be prevailed

dom of government did think fit, and pro- upon to countenance it, refufed at one time

bably with better reafon, to forbid it; no- an offer of near 200 1. for the grant of a

thing could excufe the corrupt and mer- permit to make a fingle voyage,
cenary fpirit of thofe governors, who pre-

abufes.

RHODE ISLAND. 99

abufes. Its Weft Indian trade has diminifhed ; owing
indeed, in fome meafure, to the other colonies having
entered more largely into this lucrative branch of com-
merce : it has loft during the war, by the enemy, above
150 veflels : its own privateers, and it has generally had
a great many, have had very ill fuccefs : having kept up
a regiment of provincial troops, it has alfo been loaded
with taxes, and many of the people have been oppreffed
by the mode of collecting them : for, the afTembly having
determined the quota of each town (hip, the inhabitants
have been affcffed by the town-council *, confifting of
the affiftants refiding there, the juftices of the town, and
a few freeholders elected annually by the freemen ; and
thefe have been generally partial in their affeffments, as
muft neceffarily happen under a combination of fuch cir-
cumftances. — After having faid fo much to the difad-
vantage of this colony, I mould be guilty of injuftice and
ingratitude, were I not to declare that there are many
worthy gentlemen in it, who fee the misfortunes of their
country, and lament them ; who are fenfible that they
arife from the wretched nature of the government, and

* Each townfhip is managed by a town- which they refpectively belong, to grant
council, confifting of the alliltants who re- licences to public houfes; and are a pro-
fide in the town, the juftices of the town, bate office for proving wills, and granting
and fix freeholders chofen annually by the adminiftration, with appeal to governor
freemen of the town; the major part of and council, as fupreme ordinary. Doug-
them is a quorum, with full power to ma- las's Summary, vol. ii. p. 85.
nage the affairs and intereft of the town to

o 2 wifh

ioo TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

wifli to have it altered ; who are courteous and polite ;
kind and hofpitable to Strangers ; and capable of great
ads of generofity and goodnefs, as I myfeli experienced
during a very fevere fit of iicknefs which I lay under at
this place.- — The paper-money here is as bad as it is pof-
fible to be ; the difference of exchange being at leaft
2500 per cent.

The 4th of September I took leave of Newport, and
having croiTed over the river at Briftol- ferry, where it is
about a mile broad, and two other inconsiderable ferries,
I arrived in the evening at Providence. This is the chief
town of what was formerly called Providence Plantation
in Narraganfet, and is at prefent the fecond considerable
town in the province of Rhode Ifland. It is Situated
upon a pretty large river, and is diftant from Newport
about thirty miles. In the morning I fet out for Bofton,
and arrived there about fun-fet, after a journey of
five and forty miles. The country, which I travelled
over, is chiefly grazing ground, laid out into neat inclo-
fures, furrounded with ftone walls, and rows of pfeudo
acacia or locuit- trees, which are faid with their leaves to
manure and fertilize the land. I paiTed over a beautiful
fall of water in Pantucket river, upon a bridge, which is
built directly over it. The fall is about twenty feet high,
through feveral chafms in a rock, which runs diametri-
cally crofs it, and ferves as a dam to hold up the water.
There are two or three mills, which have been erected
+ for

BOSTON, 101

for the advantage of having the different fpouts or dreams
of water conducted to their refpedtive wheels. Thefe
have taken very much from the beauty of the fcene ;
which would otherwife be tranfcendently elegant ; for
the fall, though not large or upon a great fcale, is by far
the moft romantic and picturefque of any that I met with
in my tour.

During the courfe of my ride from Newport, I ob-
ferved prodigious flights of wild pigeons * : they directed
their courfe to the fouthward, and the hemifphere was
never intirely free from them. They are birds of pafTage,
of beautiful plumage, and are excellent eating. The
accounts given of their numbers are almoft incredible ;
yet they are fo well attefted, and the opportunities of
proving the truth of them are fo frequent, as not to admit
of their being called in queftion. Towards evening they
generally fettle upon trees, and lit one upon another in
fuch crowds, as fometimes to break down the largeft
branches. The inhabitants, at fuch times, go out with
long poles, and knock numbers of them on the head
upon the roofr. ; for they are either fo fatigued by their
flight, or terrified by the obfcurity of the night, that they
will not move, or take wing, without fome great and
uncommon noife to alarm them. I met with fcarcely
any other food at the ordinaries where I put up : and

* See Appendix, N° i.

during

io2 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

during their flight, the common people fublift aimoft
wholly upon them.

Bofton, the metropolis of Maflkchufets-Bay, in New
England, is one of the largeft and moft flourishing towns
in North America. It is iituated upon a peninfula, or
rather an ifland joined to the continent by an ifthmus or
narrow neck, of land half a mile in length, at the bottom
of a fpacious and noble harbour, defended from the fea
by a number of fmall iflands. The length of it is nearly
two miles, and the breadth of it half a one ; and it is
fuppofed to contain 3000 houfes, and 18 or 20,000 in-
habitants. At the entrance of the harbour ftands a very
good light-houfe ; and upon an ifland, about a league
from the town, a confiderable caftle, mounting near 150
cannon : there are feveral good batteries about it, and
one in particular very ftrong, built by Mr. Shirley.
There are alfo two batteries in the town, for 16 or 20
guns each ; but they are not, I believe, of any force.
The buildings in Bofton are in general good ; the ftreets
are open and fpacious, and well paved ; and the whole
has much the air of fome of our beft county towns
in England. — The country round about it is exceed-
ingly delightful ; and from a hill, which ftands clofe
to the town, where there is a beacon to alarm the
neighbourhood in cafe of any furprize, is one of the
fineft profpects, the moft beautifully variegated, and

richly

BOSTON. 103

richly grouped, of any without exception that I have
ever feen.

The chief public buildings are, three churches; thir-
teen or fourteen meeting-houfes ; the governor's palace ;
the court-houfe, or exchange ; Faneuils-hall ; a linen-
manufaduring-houfe ; a work-houfe ; a bridewell; a
public granary ; and a very fine wharf, at lead half a
mile long, undertaken at the expence of a number of
private gentlemen, for the advantage of unloading and
loading veffels. Moft of thefe buildings are handfome :
the church, called King's Chapel, is exceedingly elegant ;
and fitted up in the Corinthian tafte. There is alfo an
elegant private concert- room, highly finifhed in the Ionic
manner. — I had reafon to think the fituation of Bolton
unhealthy, at leaft in this feafon of the year ; as there
were frequent funerals every night during my flay there.

The fituation of the province of Maflachufets-Bay,
including the diftrict of Plymouth*, is between the 41ft
and 43d degree of north latitude, and about 72 degrees
weft longitude. The climate, foil, natural produce, and
improved ftate of it, are much the fame as of Rhode
liland. It is divided into counties, and townfhips f ;

and

* Sagadahoc and the Main, very large one county called the county of York, and
territories, lying north of New Hampfhire, fcnJs three members to the council ; Sa-
belong alfo to the province of Maflachu- gadahoc, which is annexed to it, fends
lets-Bay; they were annexed to it by the one.

new charter of 1691. The Main forms f Townfhips are generally fix miles

fquare3

104 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

and each townfhip, if it contains forty freeholders *, has
a right to fend a member to the afTembly + ; the prefent
number of reprefentatives amounts to between 130 and
140 ; of which Bofton fends four.

The number of fouls in this province is fuppofed to
amount to 200,000 ; and 40,000 of them to be capable
of bearing arms. They carry on a confiderable traflick,
chiefly in the manner of the Rhcde-Illanders ; but have
fome material articles for exportation, which the Rhode-
Iflanders have not, except in a very trifling degree :
thefe are fait fifh, and veffels. Of the latter they build
annually a great number, and fend them, laden with
cargoes of the former, to Great Britain, where they fell
them. They clear out from Bofton, Salem, Marble-
head, and the different ports in this province, yearly^
about X ton of fhipping. Exclusive of thefe arti-
cles, their manufactures are not large ; thofe of fpirits,
fifli-oil, and iron, are, I believe, the moft confiderable.
They fabricate beaver-hats, which they fell for a moidore
a-piece ; and fome years ago they erected a manufactory,

fquare, and divided into fixty-three equal poflefs 40 s. freehold, or 50 1. perfonal

lots, viz. one lot for the firft fettled mi- eftate ; but I believe this article has not

nifter as inheritance, one lot for the mi- been irrictly adhered to.

niftry as glebe-lands, one lot for the be- f Every town, containing forty free-

nefit of a fchool ; the other fixty lots to holders, has a " right" to fend a member

fixty perfons or families, who, within five to the afTembly, but is not abfolutely

years from the grant, are to erect a dwel- " obliged" to do fo, unlefs it contains

ing-houfe, and clear feven acres of land, fit eighty freeholders,

for mowing or ploughing, &c. % See Appendix, N° 2.
* By the charter, every freeholder fhould

with

MASSAC HUSETS BAY. 10$

with a defign to encourage the Irifh fettlers to make li-
nens ; but at the breaking out of the war the price of
labour was inhanced fo much, that it was impoiiible to
carry it on. Like the reft of the colonies they alfo en-
deavour to make woollens ; but they have not yet been
able to bring them to any degree of perfection ; indeed
it is an article in which I think they will not eafily fuc-
cced ; for the American wool is not only coarfe, but in
companion of the Englifh, exceedingly fhort. Upon the
belt inquiry I could make, I was not able to difcover
that any one had ever feen a ftaple of American wool
longer than feven inches ; whereas in the counties of Lin-
coln and Leicefter, they are frequently twenty-two* inches
long. In the fouthern colonies, at leafr. in thofe parts
where I travelled, there is fcarcely any herbage -j~ ; and
whether it is owing to this, or to the exceilive heats, I
am ignorant, the wool is fhort and hairy. The northern
colonies have indeed greater plenty of herbage, but are
for fome months covered with mow ; and without a de-
gree of attention and care in houfing the fheep, and
guarding them againfl accidents, and wild beafts, which
would not eafily be compenfated, it would be very diffi-
cult to increafe their numbers to any great amount. The
Americans feems confeious of this facl, and, notwith-

* The common average length, lam in particular fpots, as at Greenway Court,
tald, is about fixteen inches. the herbage is very fine and luxuriant.

t I Cpeak of the country in general ;

p ftandins

io6 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

landing a very fevere prohibition, contrive to procure from
England, every year a considerable number of rams, in order
to improve and multiply the breed. What the lands be-
yond the Alleghenny and upon the banks of the Ohio may
be, I do not know; they are faid to be very rich : but the
climate I believe is not lefs fevere ; and I think, upon col-
lating different accounts, that the feverity of heat and cold
is not much abated by cultivation. The air becomes dryer
and more wholefome, in proportion as the woods are cut
down, and the ground is cleared and cultivated ; but the
cold is not lefs piercing, nor the mow lefs frequent. I
think therefore upon the whole, that America, though
it may with particular care and attention, produce fmall
quantities or tolerably good wool, will yet never be able
to produce it in fuch plenty and of fuch a quality as to
ferve for the neceflary confumption of its inhabitants.

The government of this province is lodged in the
hands of a governor or lieutenant-governor, appointed
by the king ; a council of twenty-eight pcrfons, chofen
annually, with the govei-nor's approbation, by the general
affembly * ; and a houfe of representatives f annually
elected by the freeholders. The governor commiflions

* They are chofen by the new rcpre- in the townfhip for which he is elected j.

fentatives, and the laft year's counfellors ; he muft alfo have a plurality of votes re-

fo that each counfellor has a vote in his fpecting the number of voters, and not in

own re-election. The governor has a comparifon only of the other candidates ;

negative to every counfellor's election, he is paid for his attendance and fervices,.

without being obliged to afiign a reafon. and fubjecl: to a fine if he neglects them.

f Each reprefemative muft be relident

8 all

MASSACHUSETS BAY. 107

all the militia, and other military officers ; and, with
confent of the council, alfo nominates and appoints all
civil officers, except thofe that are concerned in the re-
venue. He calls and adjourns the aflembly, and has in
every refpeel a very extenfive authority. His falary,
with perquifites, amounts to about 1,300!. flerling per
year. The governor and council together have the pro-
bate of wills, and the power of granting adminiflrations
and divorces.

There are feveral courts of judicature. All actions
under twenty {billings flerling are cognizable by a juftice
of peace, from whofe determination there lies an appeal
to the inferior county-court of common-pleas ; and from
hence to the fuperior provincial court in its circuits,
which is alfo a court of oyer and terminer in criminal
affairs, and is held by a chief juftice and fome affiftant
judges. In this court, if the determination is not fatif-
faclory, a rehearing of the caufe may be had with a dif-
ferent jury * ; and even, by petition to the general af-
fembly, a fecond rehearing : the dernier refort is to his
majefly in council, but this only in cafes of 300 1. fler-
ling value : and the appeal muft be made within fourteen
days after judgment.

The eftablifhed religion here, as in all the other pro-
vinces of New England, is that of the congregationalifts ;

* Juries are, I believe, appointed partly by lot, and partly by rotation.

p 2 a religion,

io8 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

a religion, different in fome trifling articles, though none
very material, from the prefbyterian. There are, befides
thefe however, great numbers of people of different per-
fuaiions, particularly of the religion of the church of Eng-
land ; which feems to gain ground, and to become more
fafhionable every day. A church has been lately erected at
Cambridge, within fight of the college ; which has greatly
alarmed the congregationalifts, who confider it as the
molt fatal ftroke, that could poflibly have been levelled
at their religion. The building is elegant, and the mi-
nifter of it (the reverend Mr. Apthorpe,) is a young man
of mining parts, great learning, and pure and engaging
manners *.

Arts and Sciences feem to have made a greater pro-
grefs here, than in any other part of America. Harvard
college has been founded above a hundred years ; and
although it is not upon a perfect plan, yet it has pro-
duced a very good effect. The arts are undeniably for-
warder in Maflachufets Bay, than either in Penfylvania
or New York. The public buildings are more elegant ;
and there is a more general turn for mufic, painting, and
the belles lettres.

The character of the inhabitants of this province is
much improved,, in comparifon of what it was : but pu-

* This gentleman, I have heard, after- quit the colon)', and has fince lived m

ward met with fo much oppofkion and England upon a living, (I believe in Surry)

perfecutit-n from the congregationalifts, which was given him by the late archbifhop

that he was obliged to refign his cure, to Seeker.

ritanifm.

MASS AC HU SETS BAY. 109

ritanifm and a fpirit of pcrfecution is not yet totally ex-
tinguifhed. The gentry of both fexes are hofpirablc,
and good-natured ; there is an air of civility in their be-
haviour, but it is conftrained by formality and precife-
nefs. Even the women, though eafinefs of carriage is
peculiarly characleriftic of their nature, appear here with
more ftiffnefs and referve than in the other colonies.
They are formed with fymmetry, are handfome, and have
fair and delicate complexions ; but are faid univerfally,
and even proverbially, to have very indifferent teeth.

The lower clafs of the people are more in the extreme
of this character ; and, which is conftantly mentioned as
fingularly peculiar to them, are impertinently curious
and inquifitive. I was told of a gentleman of Philadel-
phia, who, in travelling through the provinces of New
England, having met with many impertinencies, from
this extraordinary turn of character, at length fell upon
an expedient almoft as extraordinary> to get rid of them.
He had obferved, when he went into an ordinary*, that
every individual of the family had a queftion or two to
propofe to him, relative to his hiftary ; and that, till
each was fatisfied, and they had conferred and compared
together their information, there was no poffibility ci:
procuring any refrefhment. He, therefore, the moment
he went into any of thefe places, inquired for the matter,
the miflrefs, the fons, the daughters, the men-fervants*

* Inns arc fo called in America.

and

no TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

and the maid-fervants ; and having aflembled them all
together, he began in this manner: " Worthy people,

" I am B. F * of Philadelphia, by trade a , and a

" bachelor ; I have fome relations at Bofton, to whom I
" am going to make a vifit : my flay will be fhort, and
" I mall then return and follow my bufinefs, as a pru-
" dent man ought to do. This is all I know of myfelf,
" and all I can poflibly inform you of; I beg therefore
" that you will have pity upon me and my horfe, and
" give us both fome refrefhment."

Singular fituations and manners will be productive of
lingular cuftoms ; but frequently fuch as upon flight ex-
amination may appear to be the effects of mere groflnefs
of character, will, upon deeper refearch, be found to
proceed from flmplicity and innocence. A very extra-
ordinary method of courtfhip, which is fometimes prac-
tifed amongft the lower people of this province, and is
called Tarrying, has given occafion to this reflection .
When a man is enamoured of a young woman, and
willies to marry her, he propofes the affair to her parents,
(without whofe confent no marriage in this colony can
take place) ; if they have no objection, they allow him to
tarry with her one night, in order to make his court to
her. At their ufual time the old couple retire to bed,
leaving the young ones to fettle matters as they can ;
who, after having fate up as long as they think proper,

* Benjamin Franklin.

MASSACHUSETS BAY. rn

get into bed together alfo, but without pulling off their
under-garments, in order to prevent fcandal. If the par-
ties agree, it is all very well ; the banns are published,
and they are married without delay. If not, they part,
and poilibly never fee each other again ; unlefs, which is
an accident that feldom happens, the forfaken fair-one
prove pregnant, and then the man is obliged to marry
her, under pain of excommunication *.

The province of Maffachufets Bay has been for fome
years paft, I believe, rather on the decline. Its inhabi-
tants have loft feveral branches of trade, which they are
not likelv to recover again. They formerly fupplied,
not only Connecticut:, but other parts of the continent,
with dry goods, and received fpecie in return : but fince
the introduction of paper currency they have been de-
prived of great part of this commerce. Their fhip trade
is considerably decreafed, owing to their not having been

* A gentleman fome time ago travel- and got into bed. After fome time the old
ling upon the frontiers of Virginia, where gentlewoman came to bed to him, after her
there are few fettlements, was obliged to the old gentleman, and laft of all the young
take up his quarters cne evening at a lad)-. This, in a country excluded from
miferable plantation; where, exclufive of all civilized fociety, could only proceed
a Negroe or two, the family confifred of a from fimplicity and innocence : and indeed
man and his wife, and one daughter about it is a general and true obfervation, that
fixteen years of age. Being fatigued, he forms and obfervances become neceffaiy,
prefently defired thsm to fhew him where and are attended to, in proportion as man-
he was to fleep; accordingly they pointed ners become corrupt, and it is found expe-
to a bed in a corner of the room where dient to guard againft vice, and that defign
they were fitting. The gentleman was a and duplicity of character, which, from
little embarrafTed, but being exceffively the nature of things, will ever prevail in.
weary, he retired, half undrefTed himfelf, large and cultivated focieties,

fa

ii2 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

Co careful in the conftrudtion of veflels as formerly : their
fifheries too have not been equally fuccefsful : they have
had alfo a coniiderable number of provincial troops * in
pay during the courfe of the prefent war, and have been
burthened with heavy taxes. Thefe have been laid upon
eftates, real and perfonal. Some merchants in Bofton, I
have been credibly informed, have paid near 400 1. fter-
ling annually. — Affeffments are made by particular of-
ficers, who, with the felecl men, conftables, overfeers,
and feveral others, are elected annually by the freemen,
for the direction and management o^ each particular
townfhip.

There is lefs paper money in this colony, than in any
other of America : the current coin is chiefly gold and
filver : and Bofton is the only place, 1 believe, where
there ever was a mint to coin money.

I was told of a very impolitic law in force in this
province, which forbids any mafter, or commander of a
veffel, to bring ftrangers into the colony, without giving
fecurity that they mail not become chargeable to it.

However, notwithftanding what has been faid, MafTa-
chufets Bay is a rich, populous, and well-cultivated pro-
vince.

I cannot take leave of it without relating a very ex-
traordinary ftory, communicated to me by perfons of un-

* Between fix and feven thoufand, I believe.

doubted

MASSACHUSETS BAY. ,13

doubted credit, as it further tends to illuflrate the cha-
racter and manners of its inhabitants.

Some years ago, a commander of one of his majefly's
fhips of war being ftationed at this place, had orders to
cruife from time to time, in order to protect our trade,
and diftrefs the enemy. It happened unluckily that he
returned from one of his cruifes on a Sunday ; and as he
had left his lady at Bofton, the moment fhe heard of the
{hip's arrival, fhe hafted down to the waters fide, in or-
der to receive him. The captain, on landing, embraced
her with tendernefs and affection : this, as there were
feveral fpectators by, gave great offence, and was con-
fidered as an ad of indecency, and a flagrant profanation
of the Sabbath. The next day, therefore, he was fum--
moned before the magiflrates ; who with many fevere
rebukes and pious exhortations, ordered him to be pub-
lickly whipped. The captain ftifled his indignation and
refentment as much as poilible ; and as the punifhment,
from the frequency of it, was not attended with any
great degree of ignominy or difgrace, he mixed with the
belt company, was well received by them, and they were
apparently good friends. — At length the time of the Ra-
tion expired, and he was recalled : he went, therefore,
with feeming concern, to take leave of his worthy
friends ; and that they might fpend one more happy day
together before their final feparation, he invited the prin-
cipal magiftrates and felect men to dine with him on

q_ board

ii4 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

board his {hip, upon the day of his departure. They
accepted the invitation, and nothing could be more joy-
ous and convivial than the entertainment which he gave
them. At length the fatal moment arrived that was to
feparate them: the anchor was apeak, the fails were un-
furled, and nothing was wanting but the fignal to get
under way *. The captain, after taking an affectionate
leave of his worthy friends, accompanied them upon
deck, where the boatfwain and crew were in readinefs to
receive them. He there thanked them afrefli for the
civilities they had mown him, of which, he faid, he
mould retain an eternal remembrance ; and to which he
wifhed it had been in his power to have made a more
adequate return. One point of civility only remained to
be adj ufted between them, which, as it was in his power,
fo he meant moil fully to recompenfe to them. He then
reminded them of what had paffed, and ordering the
crew to pinion them, had them brought one by one to
the gang-way ; where the boatfwain ftripped off their
iliirts, and with a cat of nine tails laid on the back of
each forty ftripes fave one. They were then, amidfr the
fhouts and acclamations of the crew, moved into their
boats: and the captain immediately getting under way,
failed for England f.

The

* This is ufually written, <l under of the Engliih News Papers, told with
weigh :" but I am extremely doubtful of much humour, and with fome difference
the propriety of the phrafe. refpedting the occafion and mode of the

£ This ftory has lately appeared in one captain's punifliment. The author cannot

take

NEW HAMPSHIRE. x , s

The 12th of October I embarked on board his majef-
ty's fhip the Winchefter, of fifty guns, captain Hale com-
mander, for the river Pifcataqua, in New Hampfhire ;
and we came to an anchor there the next day, after a
pleafant pafTage.

The capital of this province is Portfmouth, which is
ntuated upon the river : it is an inconiiderable place,
and chiefly built of wood. Very little can be faid of the
province of New Hampfhire, materially different from
what has been faid of Maffachufets Bay. — The climate,
produce, trade, government, religion, and manners of it
are much the lame. — There are fuppofed to be about
40,000 inhabitants, 8,000 militia, and 6 or 700 provin-
cial troops. — There are only two miflionaries of the
church of England, and one of thefe has lately applied
to be removed to Rhode Ifland. — The chief articles for
exportation are fifh, cattle, fhips, of which they annually
build near 200*, and marts for the royal navy. Thefe
are made of the white pine, and are, I believe, the finefh
in the world, many of them being forty yards long, and
as many inches in diameter. They never cut them down
but in times of deep fnow, as it would be impofiible in
any other feafon to get them down to the river. When
the trees are fallen, they yoke feventy or eighty pair of

take upon himfelf to fay which account the p;-ople, and to anfwer the au hor's pur-
may be moft exact, but he has chofen to pofe in relating it.
abide by that which he heard at Bofron. * e'ee Appendix, N" 2.
They either of them ferve to characterize

Q_ 2 oxen,

u6 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

Oxen, and drag them along the mow. It is exceedingly
difficult to put them flrft into motion, which they call
railing them ; and when they have once effected this, they
never flop upon any account whatfoever till they arrive at
the waters fide. Frequently fome of the oxen are taken
ill ; upon which they immediately cut them out of the
gears ; and are fometimes obliged, I was told, to deftroy
five or fix pair of them. — The forefts, where thefe mails
grow, are refer ved to the crown, which appoints a fur-
veyor of them ; who is commonly the governor of this
province. This is not the only expedient employed by
government for the prefervation of fuch trees as may be
of ufe for the royal navy ; for there is an acl of parlia-
ment, I believe, which prohibits, under pain of certain
fines and penalties, the cutting down, or deftroying of
any white pine-tree, of fpecified dimenfions, not growing
within the boundaries of any townfhip, without his raa-
jefty's licence, in any of the provinces of New England,
New York, or New Jerfey : a reftriclion abfolutely ne-
ceiTary, whether confidered as fecuring a provifion for the
navy, or as a check upon that very definitive practice,
taken from the Indians, of fire-hunting. It iifed to be
the cuftom for large companies to go into the woods in
the winter, and to fet fire to the brum and underwood,
in a circle of feveral miles. This circle gradually con-
trading itfelf, the deer, and other wild animals, inclofed,
.naturally retired from the flames, till at length they got
.§ herded

NEW HAMPSHIRE. 117

herded together in a very fmall compafs. Then, blinded
and fuffocated by the fraoke, and fcorchcd by the fire,
which every moment came nearer to them, they forced
their way, under the greateft trepidation and difmay,
through the flames ; and were no fooner got into the
open day-light again, than they were (hot by the hunters,
who flood without, and were in readinefs to fire upon
them. — The trees included within the circle, although
not abfolutely burnt down, were fo dried and injured,
that they never vegetated any more : and as the fire did
not only contract itfelf inwardly, but dilated alio out-
wardly, and fometimes continued burning for feveral
weeks, till rain, or fome accidental circumftance put it
out ; it is incredible what injury and devaluation it occa-
fioned in the woods. — I was once a fpectator of a fimilar
fire in Virginia, which had happened through accident.
Nothing could be more awful and tremendous than the
fi-rht. It was of great extent, and burned feveral weeks
before the inhabitants could fubdue it. They effected it
at laft by cutting away the underwood, in wide and long
avenues, to leeward of the fire, by which it was deprived
of the means of communicating or fpreading any- farther,
— In Virginia (and, Tbelieve, the other colonies), there
is an exprefs ad of aflembly, paffed in the 1 2th year of
his late majefty, to forbid this practice.

The province of New Hampfhire, I was informed at
Portfmouth, has grown rich during the war, by the lofs

of

n8 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

of its own vefTels ; they having been commonly infured
above value.

The currency here is extremely bad, not better than
that in Rhode Ifland.

Having travelled over fo large a tract of this vaft con-
tinent, before I bid a final farewell to it, I muft beg the
reader's indulgence, while I ftop for a moment, and as it
were from the top of a high eminence, take one general
retrofpedtive look at the whole. — An idea, ftrange as it
is vifionary, has entered into the minds of the generality
of mankind, that empire is travelling weftward ; and
every one is looking forward with eager and impatient
expe&ation to that deftined moment, when America is to
give law to the reft of the world. But if ever an idea
was illufory and fallacious, I am fully perfuaded, that
this will be fo.

America is formed for happinefs, but not for empire :
in a courfe of 1,200 miles I did not fee a fingle object
that folicited charity ; but I faw infuperable caufes of
weaknefs, which will necefTarily prevent its being a
potent ftate.

Our colonies may be diftinguiflied into the fouthern
and northern ; feparated from each other by the Sufque-
hannah and that imaginary line which divides Maryland
from Penfylvania.

The fouthern colonies have fo many inherent caufes of

weaknefs.

GENERAL REFLECTIONS. 119

weakncfs, that they never can pofTefs any real ftrcngth. —
The climate operates very powerfully upon them, and
renders them indolent, inactive, and unenterprizing ;
this is vifible in every line of their character. I myfelf
have been a fpectator, and it is not an uncommon fight,
of a man in the vigour of life, lying upon a couch, and
a female flave (landing over him, wafting off the flies,
and fanning him, while he took his repofe.

The fouthern colonies (Maryland, which is the fmalleft
and moll in considerable, alone excepted) will never be
thickly feated : for as they are not confined within de-
terminate limits, but extend to the weflward indefi-
nitely ; men, fooner than apply to laborious occupations,
occupations militating with their difpofitions, and gene-
rally considered too as the inheritance and badge of
flavery, will gradually retire weftward, and fettle upon
frelh lands, which arefaid alfo to be more fertile; where,
by the fervitude of a Negroe or two, they may enjoy all
the fatisfaction of an eafy and indolent independency :
hence the lands upon the coaft will of courfe remain thin
of inhabitants.

The mode of cultivation by flavery, is another insur-
mountable caufe of weaknefs. The number of Negroes
in the fouthern colonies is upon the whole nearly equal,
if not fuperior, to that of the white men ; and they pro-
oagate and increafe even falter. — 1 heir condition is truly
pitiable ; their labour excefilvdy hard, their diet poor

and

i2o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA,

and Icanty, their treatment cruel and oppreffive : they
cannot therefore but be a fubject of terror to thofe who
fo inhumanly tyrannize over them.

The Indians near the frontiers are a ftill farther for-
midable caufe of fubjection. The fouthern Indians are
numerous, and are governed by a founder policy than
formerly : experience has taught them wifdom. They
never make war with the colonifts without carrying ter-
ror and devaluation along with them. They fometimes
break up intire counties together. — Such is the (late of
the fouthern colonies.

The northern colonies are of ftronger ftamina, but
they have other difficulties and difadvantages to ftruggle
with, not lefs arduous, or more eafy to be furmounted,
than what have been already mentioned. Their limits
being defined, they will undoubtedly become exceedingly
populous : for though men will readily retire back to-
wards the frontiers of their own colony, yet they will not
fo eafily be induced to fettle beyond them, where dif-
ferent laws and polities prevail ; and where, in fliort, they
are a different people : but in proportion to want or ter-
ritory, if we consider the proposition in a general and
abftract light, will be want of power. — But the northern
colonies have ftill more pofitive and real difadvantages to
contend with. They are compofed of people of different
nations, different manners, different religions, and dif-
ferent languages. They have a mutual jealoufy of each

other,

GENERAL REFLECTIONS. 121

other, fomented by confiderations of intereft, power, and
afcendency. Religious zeal too, like a fmothered fii s,
is fecretly burning in the hearts of the different fe&aries
that inhabit them, and were it not reftrained by laws and
fuperior authority, would foon burft out into a flame of
univerfal perfecution. Even the peaceable quakers ftrug-
gle hard for pre-eminence, and evince in a very ftriking
manner, that the paflions of mankind are much ftronger
than any principles of religion.

The colonies, therefore, feparately considered, are in-
ternally weak ; but it may be fuppofed, that, by an
union or coalition, they would become ftrong and for-
midable : but an union feems almoft impoffible : one
founded in dominion or power is morally fo : for, were
not England to interfere, the colonies themfelves fo well
understand the policy of preferving a balance, that, I
think, they would not be idle fpe&ators, were any one of
them to endeavour to fubjugate its next neighbour. In-
deed, it appears to me a very doubtful point, even fup-
pofing all the colonies of America to be united under
one head, whecher it would be polTible to keep in due
order and government fo wide and extended an empire ;
the difficulties of communication, of intercourfe, of cor-
refpondence, and all other circumflances considered.

A voluntary affociation or coalition, at leaft a perma-
nent one, is almoft as difficult to be fuppofed : for fire
and water are not more heterogeneous than the different
r colonies

422 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

colonies in North America. Nothing can exceed the
jealoufy and emulation, which they poffefs in regard to
each other. The inhabitants of Penfyivania and New
York have an inexhauftible fource of animofity, in their
jealoufy for the trade of the jerfeys. Maffachufets Bay
and Rhode Iiland, are not lefs intercfted in that of Con-
necticut. The Weft Indies are a common fubjecl: of
emulation to them all. Even the limits and boundaries
of each colony, are a conftant fource of litigation. In
fliort, fuch is the difference of character, of manners, o(
religion, of intereft, of the different colonies, that I think,
if I am not wholly ignorant of the human mind, were
they left to themfelves, there would foon be a civil war,
from one end of the continent to the other ; while the
Indians and Negroes would, with better reafon, im-
patiently watch the opportunity of exterminating them
all together.

After all, however, fuppofing what I firmly believe
will never take place, a permanent union or alliance of
all the colonies, yet it could not be effectual, or produc-
tive of the event fuppofed : for fuch is the extent of
coaft fettled by the American colonies, that it can never
be defended but by a maritime power : America muft
firft be miflrefs of the fea, before fhe can be independent,
or miftrefs of herfelf. Suppofe the colonies ever fo po-
pulous; fuppofe them capable of maintaining 100,000
men conftantly in arms, (a fuppofition in the higheft de-

GENERAL REFLECTIONS. 123

gree extravagant), yet half a dozen frigates would, with
eafe, ravage and lay wafte the whole country from end to
end, without a poffibility of their being able to prevent
it ; the country is fo interfered by rivers, rivers of fuch
magnitude as to render it impofTible to build bridges
ever them, that all communication is in a manner cut
off. An army under fuch circumftances could never act
to any purpofe or effect ; its operations would be totally
fruftrated.

Further, a great part of the opulence and power of
America depends upon her fifheries, and her commerce
with the Weft Indies; fhe cannot fubfift without them;
but thefe would be intirely at the mercy of that power,
which might have the fovereignty of the feas. I con-
clude therefore, that England, fo long as fhe maintains
her fuperiority in that refpecl, will alfo poffefs a fuperio-
rity in America; but the moment fhe lofes the empire of
the one, fhe will be deprived of the fovereignty of the
other : for were that empire to be held by France, Hol-
land, or any other power, America, will, in all probability,
be annexed to it. — New eftablimments formed in the inte-
rior parts of America, will not come under this predica-
ment ; 1 fhould therefore think it the beft policy to en-
large the prefent colonies, but not to eftablifh frefh ones;
for to fuppofe interior colonies to be of ufe to the mother
country, by being a check upon thofe already fettled, is
* to

i24 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

to fuppofe what is contrary to experience, and the nature
of things, viz. that men removed beyond the reach of
power will be fubordinate to it.

Oclober 20, I embarked again on board the Win-
chefter, for England; and arrived in Plymouth Sound
the 21ft of November, after a rough and tempefluous

voyage.

I25

APPENDIX, Nc i.

CATALOGUE of feveral TREES, PLANTS, BIRDS, FISHES,
ANIMALS, 6cc. mentioned in the courfe of this Work; with
their Common Names, and the Names given them by CATESBY
and LINNiEUS.

COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINN^EAN.

or Indian 1 m Frumentum Indicum, Zea Mays.

Tobacco, Nicotiana.

Maize or Indian
Corn,

Rattle-Snake ? _ . Ariftolochia Piftolochia,
Root, - - - i

Pigeon Plumb I _ _ Cerafus latiore folio.
or Berry, - j

. . { Nux ju elans alba Vireinienfis, 7 .

Hiccory, \ &C<J ° Z J" " Juglans alba.-

Pignut, - - - - Nux juglans Carolinenfis, &c.

Cyprefs-Tree, - - - Cupreflus Americana, Cupreflus difticha.

Sugar Maple, - - __- Acer Saccharinum.

Red Flowering 7 _ _ Virginianum, &c. Acer Rubrum.

Maple, - - \ &

Candle-Berry J Myrtus, Brabantics fimilis Ca- ?
Myrtle, - - \ rohnenfis, &c. -3 '

. f Juniperus Vir-

Vireinian Cedar, --------------•< „:„:„„„

t> £ gimana,

Saflafras Tree, - - - - Cornus Mas Odorata, Laurus Saflafras.

Dogwood, - Cornus Mas Virginiana, &c. - «6ernus Florida.

S Pfeudo-

126 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINN^EAN.

Pfeudo-acacia ? . . _, , . . „ ,

orLocuft-treeJ Acacia' " Robl"ia Pfeudo-acacia,

Honey Locuft, - - - Acacia, -'--_._ Gleditfia.

Red-Bud, or Tu- 7 «-,- n

das Tree, - \ Sihquaftrum, Ccrcis Canadensis.

Fringe-Tree, -- - Amelanchior Virginiana, &c. -) Chionanthus

C Virginica.

Tulip-Tree, Arbor Tulipifera, far. - -5 Li™?5n.£ron

r I Tulipiiera.

Umbrella-Tree, - Magnolia ampliffimo flore albo, &c. < ° \~

Sweet Flower- "J

ing Bay, or i. - - Magnolia lauri folio, &c. - Magnolia Glauca.
Swamp Laurel J

Trumpet Flower - - Bignonia fraxini foliis, &c. - -< emper

KT „ rr . \ Gelfominum five jafminum luteum, 5 Bignonia fern -
Yellow Jafminej &c< _ J_ J per virens.

Catalpa, - - - - Bignonia Urucu foliis, &c. - - Bignonia Catalpa.

Chamaedaphne, 7 _ Chamffidaphne foliis tini, &c. - Kalmia latifolia.
orDwarr Laurel 3 r

Chamaedaphne - - Semper virens anguftis foliis, -j * Sf0Ua"

N. B. Thefe are by the Virginians commonly called Ivy.

May Apple, - - Anapodophyllon Canadenfe, &c.

Chinkapin, - - - Caftanea pumila Virginiana, &c. - Fagus pumila.

_ . C Diofpyros Virgi-

Perfimon, ----- — _--_-.__--•*

r _ _ _ _ _ _ Pavia.

jng Chefnut,

arlet Flower- l paWa>

fnut, 3

Virginia

A P P E N D I X, N' i. 127

COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINNJEAN.

^. ^. • , i- { Platanus Occi-

Virginia Maple, - - - Platanus Occidentahs, - -j dentalis.

\ CephalantusOc-
Button Wood, -J cidentalis.

Wild Oat, - - - - - --------- Zizania Aquatica.

i. r> j r J Panax quinque-

Ginfeng, Aurehana Canadenfis, - - - J ^ foliurru

CLycoperdonTu-
Tuckahoe Root, J ber.

Pacoon Flower.

Atamufco Lilly, - - Lillio Narciflus Virginienfis.

Pine Trees :

White Pine, - - Pi™s Strobus.

5 Pinus foliis fin-
Spruce Pine, I gularibus.

BIRDS.

Bald Eagle,

Fifhing Hawk,

Wild Turkey, -

Sorus, - - - -

Partridge, - - -

Blue-Wing, - -
Shell-Drake.

- Aquila capite albo.

- - Accipiter Pifcatorius.

- - Gallo Pavo Sylveftris.

- - Gallinula Americana.
Perdrix Sylveftris Virginiana.
Querquidula Americana fufca.

Summer-

123 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINN^AN.

Summer-Duck, - Anas Americanus criftatus elegans.

Pigeon of PafTage, - - Palumbus migratorius, - J Columba raigra-

t toria.

Mockino-_Bird, -\ Turdus minor, cinereo albus non 5 Turdus Poly-
~( maculatus, -- - -- - ~ - £ glottus.

Red-Bird, or ]

Virginia f " " Coccolhraufles ruber, - - - Loxia Cardinalis.

Nightingale, -»

Blue-Bird, Rubicula Americana caerulea, - Motacilla Slab's.

Yellow-Bird, - - - - Parus luteus &c. Qu?

Baltimore-Bird, - I&erus ex aureo nigroque variu?.

Humming-Bird, - Mellivora Avis Carolinenfis, - jTrochilus G*£

Turtle, Turtur Carolinenfis.

FISH.

Grampus.

Porpefs, ---_ » jDelphinus Pho-

l casna.

Albecor, j Scomber Thyn-

l nus.

Boneta, Scomber Pelamys.

Flying-Fifb, Hirundo, \ Exocastus voli-

l tans.

Sheepfhead.

Rock-Fiih.

Drums, Coracinoaffinis,

1 Shad,

APPENDIX, N' i, 129

COMMON NAMES. CATESBEAN. LINNJEAN.

Shad, - - - - - - Turdus cinereus peltatusj Qu?

Black-Fifh.

Sea-Bafs.

Sturgeon, Acipenfer Sturio.

ANIMALS.

Buffalo, - - ----- Bifon Americanus.

Mooie or Elk, - Alee maxima Americana nigra.
Grey Fox, - - - - Vulpis cinereus Americanus.

Flying Sqirrel, - - - - Sciurus volans.

Ground Squirrel, - - - Sciurus flriatus.

Skunk or Polecat, - Putorius Americanus flriatus, - - - - Putorius.

SNAKES, REPTILES, INSECTS, &c.

Rattle-Snake, - - Vipera caudifona Americana, - - - - Crotalus.

Black-Snake, ------ Anguis niger.

Wampum- Snake, - Anguis e casruleo et albo varius.

Bead-Snake, - J An§uiS "¥*' lldi! FUbriS et I
£ luteis eleganter varius. J

Bull-Frog, - - - Rana maxima Americana aquatica, - - - Ocellata.

Green-Tree Frog, - - Rana viridis arborea, ----- - Arborea.

Fire-Fly, - - ____ Lampyris.

Mofquito, - Culex pipiens.

130 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

APPENDIX, N° 2.

THAVE not been able to procure any fatisfactory account of the
tonnage cleared out of the different ports of North America, in
the years 1759 and 1760 ; owing to the incorrect manner of taking
the tonnage at that time, and the irregularity with which the ac-
counts were generally tranfmitted to England : but having been fa-
voured by G. Chalmers, Efq. firft Clerk to the Committee of Coun-
cil for the confideration of all matters relating to trade and fo-eign
plantations, with an exact ftatement of the number of veffels and
their tonnage, which entered inwards and cleared outwards, in MafTa-
chufets, Penfylvania, Virginia, and South Carolina, in the year 1770 ;
at which time the colonies were in their mod flourishing condition:
— a probable conjecture may be formed from it of the ftate of their
commerce ten years before, by allowing for its increafe during that
period of peace and profperity. The number of veffjls and their
tonnage cleared out from New York is not fpecified in the ftatement;
but by collating other accounts I have endeavoured to afcertain it as
nearly as poffible. Mr. Chalmers, with the greateft liberality and
poiitenefs, favoured me at the fame time with feveral tables and
flatements relating to the commercial fituation of the United States,
both before and fince the American war j which, as they are full of
information, and cannot fail of being highly interefting to the reader,
I have here annexed : and I am happy to have this opportunity of
pub icly expreffing my gratitude and obligation to that gentleman,
for his indulgence in permitting me to avail myfelf of fuch valuable
information.

A State-

A P P E N D I X, N* 2. 131

1. — A Statement of the Number of Vessels, with their
Tonnage, which entered Inwards and cleared Outwards, in the
following Countries, during the Year 1770.

Ships entered Inwards.

Ships clea

red Outwards.

Veffels.

Tons.

Veffels.

Tons.

Maffachufets - - -

1,247

65,271

J>334

70,284

Penfylvania - - - -

804

50,901

820

49,654

Virginia

613

44,803

604

45>'79

South Carolina - -

492

29,504

492

32,031

In the fame year, ac-

cording to the beft in-

formation which I

have been able to pro-

cure, there cleared out

c tv v 1

- -612

fay 36,720

2. — Vessels employed between Great Britain and the
Countries belonging to the United States.

Number and tonnage of the vellels clearing outwards, and employed
yearly in the trade between Great Britain and the countries now-
belonging to the United States of America,
on an average of the years 1770, 177 1 , and
1772, before the war -

Number of ditto fo employed, entering inwards,
on a like average -

Medium of the average-number and tonnage
of the veffels entering inwards, and clearing
outwards - - - - - - -

Number

Ships.

Tons.

628

8l,95I

699

91,540

663

86,745

*32

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

Number and tonnage of British vefiels, and of vefiels belonging to
the United States, clearing outwards, fo employed, on an ave-
rage of the years
1787, 1788, and
1789, fince the
war - - - -

Number and ton-
nage of ditto, en-
tering inwards, on
a like average -

Medium of the ave-
rage-number and
tonnage of Bri-
tish and American
vefiels lb employ-
ed, entering in-
wards and clear-
in? outwards - -

British.

American.

Tot

At.

Ships.

Tons.

Ships.

Tons.

Ships.

Tons.

272

55»7«5

lS7

25-725

429

81,510

251

49,405

169

27,403

42O

76,808

26l

52>595

163

26,564

425

79>*59

It appears from the foregoing averages, that the number of veffels
employed in the direct commercial intercourfe between Great Britain
and the countries now belonging to the United States of America,
has decreafed fince the war 238 ; and that the quantity of tonnage
has decreafed fince the war 7,586 tons. The decreafe of the tonnage
appears to be much lefs than the decreafe of the number of the fhips,
and the decreafe of the tonnage inwards is much greater than that of
the tonnage outwards. The reafon that the quantity of the tonnage
in general appears to be lefs decreafed than the number of fhips, is,

First — That larger mips are now employed in this as well as in
every other branch of commerce, than formerly.

Secondly

APPENDIX, N'2. 133

Secondly — The imperfect manner of taking the tonnage before
the war, which, in order that the mafter might be charged a lefs linn
for pilotage and lighthoule duties, was generally estimated at about
one- third lefs than it really was.

The greater decreafe of the tonnage inwards, compared with that
of the tonnage outwards, is to be imputed to the diminifhed impor-
tation of the bulky articles of rice and tobacco.

It appears by the foregoing account of the veflels employed in this
trade fince the war, that the number of Britiih veflels lb employed,
exceeds the number of American veflels fo employed, 98 (hips ; and
the quantity of Britifh tonnage fo employed, exceeds the quantity of
American tonnage fo employed, 26,031 tons.

As there was no diftinction before the war, between fhips belong-
ing to the inhabitants of the countries now under the dominion of
the United States and the other parts of the Britifh dominions, it is
impoflible to ftate with certainty, what was the proportion of each de-
fcription of (hips then employed in this branch of commerce.

The veflels fo employed, were then of three forts :

First — Veflels belonging to merchants refident in the Britifh
European dominions.

Secondly — Veflels belonging to Britifh merchants, occafionally
refident in thofe colonies that now form the United States.

Thirdly — Veflels belonging to merchants, who were natives and
permanent inhabitants of thofe colonies that now form the United
States.

.-—The

*34

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

3. — The following Table will fliew the Proportion of each
Defcription of Veffels, claffed in the Manner before mentioned,
then employed in this Branch of Commerce, according to the
beft Information that can be obtained :

Proportion of vef-
fels belonging to
merchants, refident
in the Britifh Euro-
pean dominions.

Proportion of vef-
fels belonging to
Britifh merchants,
occafionally refident
in thofe Colonies
that now form the
United States.

Proportion of vef-
fels belonging to
merchants, who were
natives and perma-
nent inhabitants of
thofe Colonies that
now form the Unit*
ed States.

New England, - - -
New York, - - - -
Penfylvania, - — —
Maryland and Virginia,
North Carolina, - - -
S.Carolina and Georgia,

i - 8th.
3 - 8ths.
2 - Sths.
6 - Sths.
5 - 8ths.
5 - Sths.

i - 8th.
3 - Sths.
3 - 8ths.

1 - 8th.

2 - Sths.
2 - Sths.

6 - 8ths.

2 - 8ths.

3 - Sths.
1 - 8th.
1 - 8th.
1 - 8th.

From the foregoing table it is evident, that the proportion of
veffels, claffed under the before-mentioned defcriptions, varied ac-
cording to the different colonies, now forming the United States,
with which the Commerce of Great Eritain was then carried on ;
the quantity of fhipping fo employed, which belonged either to the
inhabitants of Great Eritain, or to Britiih merchants occafionally
refident in the faid colonies, being much greater in the commercial
intercourfe then carried on with the fouthern colonies, than with
the northren colonies, particularly thofe of New England. But
upon the whole, there is reafon to believe, from calculaiors founded
on the foregoing table, as well as from other information, that the
proportion of tonnage, employed before the war in this branch of
commerce, which belonged to the inhabitants of Great Britain, was
§ about

APPENDIX, N* 2.

35

about four-eighths and an half; and the proportion, which belonged
to Britifh merchants, occasionally refident in the colonics now form-
ing the United States, was about one-eighth and an half, making to-
gether nearly fix-eighths of the whole ; and that the proportion of
tonnage fo employed, which belonged to merchants, who were then
natives and permanent inhabitants of the colonies now forming the
United States, was rather more than two-eighths of the whole. At
prefent the proportion of tonnage, employed in this branch of com-
merce, belonging to the merchants of Great Britain, is nearly fix-
eighths of the whole ; and the proportion of tonnage, belonging to
the merchants of the United States, is rather more than two-
eighths of the whole ; fo that in this view of the fubject, though
the quantity of lhipping, employed between Great Britain, and the
countries now under the dominion of the United States, has fince
the war decreafed on the whole ; yet, allowing for this decreafe,
the ihare of the lhipping which belongs to the merchants of Great
Britain, has increafed in the proportion of one-eighth and an half;
(the lhare of the lhipping, which before the war belonged to
Britifh merchants, occafionally refident in the colonies now form-
ing the United States, being transferred to merchants refident in
Great Britain); and the fhare of the lhipping fo employed, which now
belongs to merchants, fubjects of the United States, and permanent
inhabitants thereof, is nearly the fame as it was before the war.

T 2 4. — v ESSELS

i36 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

4. — Vessels employed between Great Britain and the
remaining British Colonies in North America.

Number and tonnage of Britifli veffels clearing outwards, and em-
ployed yearly in the trade between Great Britain and the remaining
Britiih colonies in North America, on an
average of the years 1770, 177 J, and 1772,
before the war -

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed, en-
tering inwards, on a like average

Medium of the average-number and tonnage
of Britiih veffels entering inwards, and clear-
ing outwards -

Number and tonnage of Britifli veffels clearing
outwards, employed in this trade, on an
average of the years 1787, 1788, and 1789,
iince the war -

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed,
entering inwards, on a like average

Medium of the average-number and tonnage of
Britifli veffels entering inwards, and clearing
outwards ___--■

By the foregoing averages it appears, that the number of veffels
employed between Great Britain and the remaining colonies in North
America, being all Britiih fliips, has increafed fince the war in the
proportion of about one-half, being 106 veffels more than it was be-
fore the war; and the quantity of tonnage has increafed 34,887 tons,
being in the proportion of about four times more than it was before
the war.

Ships.
250

Tons.
9,582

273

12,857

261

11,219

486

61,858

249

3°>355

367

46,106

APPENDIX.N'2.

137

p. — Vessels employed between the remaining British Colonies
in North America, and the Countries belonging to the
United States.

Number and tonnage of Britifli vefTels clearing outwards, and em-
ployed yearly in the trade between the remaining Britifli colonies
in North America, and the countries which were then Britifli co-
lonies, but now form the United States of
America, on an average of the years 1770,
1 77 1, and 1772, before the war

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed,
entering inwards, on a like average

Medium of the average -number and tonnage of
Bruifh vefTels entering inwards, and clearing
outwards ----------

Number and tonnage of Britifli velTels clearing
outwards, and employed yearly in the trade
between the remaining Britifli colonies in
North America, and the countries belonging
to the United States, on an average of the
years 1787, 1788, and 1789, fince the war -

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed,
entering inwards, on a like average - - - -

Medium of the average-number and tonnage of
Britifli vefTels entering inwards, and clearing
outwards ----------

The number of the vefTels, fo ftated, includes their repeated
voyages, and it appears that the number has decreafed, fince the war,
25 vefTels, or about one-tenth : but the quantity of the tonnage has

increafed

Ships.

Tons.

250

9,582

276

I2,S57

263

11,219

20S

*S>*35

269

i5,S24

238

i5,329

138 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

increafed 4,110 tons, or about one-third. The vefTels, employed
before the war in this branch of trade, might lawfully belong to the
inhabitants of the countries now under the dominion of the United
States, it is certain they then owned much the greateft thare of thefe
vefTels : but vefTels fo employed can now belong only to the inhabitants
of the remaining colonies, or of fome other part of the Britifh
dominions.

6. — Vessels employed between the British Islands in the
West Indies, and the Countries belonging to the United
States.

Number and tonnage of Britifh vefTels clearing
ployed yearly in the trade between the Britifh
Indies, and the countries belonging to the
United States, on an average of the years 1770,
1 77 1, and 1772, before the war - - -

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed, enter-
ing inwards, on a like average - -

Medium of the average number and tonnage of
Britifh vefTels entering inwards, and clearing
outwards - - - - __-*__

Number and tonnage of Britifh vefTels clearing
outwards, and employed yearly in the trade
between the Britifli iflands in the Weft Indies,
and the countries belonging to the United
States, on an average of the years 1787, 1788,
and 1789, fince the war ------

Number and tonnage of ditto To employed,
entering inwards, on a like average - - -

Medium of the average-number and tonnage of
Britifli vefTels, entering inwards, and clearing
outwards - ---------

outwards,

iflands in

Ships.

2,172
2,297

and em-
the Weft
Tons.

2,234

51°

579
544

103,540
111,939

107,739

57,904
67>573

62,738

A P P E N D I X, N°2. 139

The account of the number of vefTels from whence thefe averages
are taken, includes their repeated voyages. It has decreafed fmce the
war 1,690 mips, or is three-fourths lefs than it was before the war.
The quantity of tonnage has decreafed 45,001 tons, or rather lefs than
half what it was before the war : but five-eighths of thefe vefTels, before
the war, belonged to merchants, permanent inhabitants of the coun-
tries now under the dominion of the United States; and three-eighths
to Britifh merchants, refiding occafionally in the faid countries. At
that time very few vefTels belonging to Britifh merchants, refident in
the Britifh European dominions, or in the Britifh illands in the Weft
Indies, had a fhare in this trade. The vefTels employed in this trade
can now only belong to Britifh fubjecls refiding in the prefent Britifh
dominions. Many vefTels now go from the ports of Great-Britain,
carrying Britifh manufactures to the United States, then load with
lumber and provifions for the Britifh iflands in the Weft Indies, and
return, with the brodace of thefe iflands, to Great-Britain. The
vefTels fo employed are much larger than thole in which this trade was
formerly carried on, and for this reafon the tonnage employed in it has
decreafed much lefs than the number of the vefTels.

7. — Vessels employed between the remaining British Colo-
nies in North America, and the British Islands in
West Indies.

Number and tonnage of Britifh vefTels clearing outwards, and em-
ployed yearly in the trade between the remaining Britifh colonies
in North America, and the Britifh iflands in
the Weft Indies, on an average of the years
1770, 1 77 1, and 1772, before the war - -

.Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed,
entering inwards, on a like average

Ships.

Tons.

J5

753

23

1,240

Ships.

Tons.

*9

996

142

12,696

I7I

16,331

156

H.5*3

Medium of the average-number and tonnage ofj
Britifh veflels, entering inwards, and clearing
outwards - -

Number and tonnage of Britifh veflels, clearing
outwards, and employed yearly in the trade be-
tween the remaining Britifh colonies in North
America, and the Britifh iflands in the Weft
Indies, on an average of the years 1787, 1788,
and 1789, fince the war -

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed,
entering inwards, on a like average

Medium of the average-number and tonnage of
Britifh veflels . entering inwards, and clearing
outwards -

The account of the number of veflels from whence thefe averages
are taken, includes their repeated voyages. The number of veflels fo
employed has increafed fince the war 1 37 fhips, being feven times
more than it was before the war : and the quantity of tonnage has in-
creafed 13,517 tons, being thirteen times more than it was before the
war. Many of thefe veflels, before the war, belonged to the inhabitants
of the countries which were then Britifh colonies, but are now under
the dominion of the United States : they can now only belong to
Britifh fubjeifts, refident in fome part of His Majefty's prefent
dominions.

As the refult of the foregoing deduction the following table has
been prepared ; in which allowance is made for the repeated voyages,
which rh-j veflels employed in thefe different branches of trade are fup-
pofed to make in each year ; and the number and tonnage of the
veflels is reduced in due proportion. This table will fhew, at one
viewj the increafe and decreafe of veflels and tonnage employed in thefe
various br-anches of navigation ; and how far the balance on the whole
h xt prefentin favour cf Great-Britain.

[141

Since the Was

o merchants, who
manent inhabitants
h were then Britifh
n the United States.

Veffels

belonging to the fubje&s

of the prefent

Britifh dominions.

Veffels

belonging to the fubjects

of the United States.

Tons.

21,686
1,402
5,609

3^423
249

60,369

Vcffcl

26l

367
158

1,019

Veffels.

52>595
46,106

10,219

20,912

163

134,669

163

26,564

26,564

di and decreafe under the forementioned different branches
:reafe and decreafe On the whole.

til

t

TISH.

vj

Tons.

36,289

8,350

16,423

4>754

65,816
12,463

53*353 i

Decreafe on the ift - -

Ditto on the 2d - -

Ditto on the 3d - -

Ditto on the 4th - -

Ditto on the 5th - -

Total decreafe -

Increafe on the 1 ft -

Balance of decreafe -

American.

Veffels.

Tons.

2

32
I3I
651

4

1,402
5,609

3^423

249

820

38,683
4,877

820

33,806

i4q TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA

Medium of the average-number and tonnage of
Britifh veffels, entering inwards, and clearing
outwards - -

Number and tonnage of Britifh veffels, clearing
outwards, and employed yearly in the trade be-
tween the remaining Britifh colonies in North
America, and the Britifh iflands in the Weft
Indies, on an average of the years 1787, 1788,
and 1789, fince the war -

Number and tonnage of ditto fo employed,
entering inwards, on a like average

Medium of the average-number and tonnage of
Britifh veiTels entering inwards, and clearing
outwards ------

Ships.

Tons.

*9

996

142

12,696

171

16,331

156

H.5'3

The account of the number of veffels from whence thefe averages
are taken, includes their repeated voyages. The number of veffels fo
employed has increafed fince the war 137 fhips, being feven times
more than it was before the war : and the quantity of tonnage has in-
creafed 13.517 tons, being thirteen times more than it was before the
war. Many of thefe veffels, before the war, belonged to the inhabitants
of the countries which were then Britifh colonies, but are now under
the dominion of the United States: they can now only belong to
Britifh fubjects, reiident in fome part of His Majefty's prefent
dominions.

As the reful t of the foregoing deduction the following table has
been prepared ; in which allowance is made for the repeated voyages,
w1 ich the veffels employed in thefe different branches of trade are fup-
pofed to make in each year ; and the number and tonnage of the
veffels is reduced in due proportion. This table will fhew, at one
view, the increafe and decreafe of veffels and tonnage employed in thefe
various branches of navigation ; and how far the balance on the whole
is at prefent in favour cf Great-Britain.

APPENDIX, N° 2. — continued.

[I4I

ift'. Veflels, and their tonnage, employed between Great Britain and

the United States - --- - - - - -

2d. — Veflels, and their tonnage, employed between Great Britain and

the remaining Britiih Colonies in North America - - -

3d. (nj Veflels, and their tonnage, employed between the remaining

Britiih colonies and the United States - ,

4th. — (b) Veflels, and their tonnage, employed between the Britiih

iflands in the Weft Indies and the United States - - -

5th. — (c) Veflels, and their tonnage, employed between the remaining
Britifh colonies and the Bntimiilands in the Weft Indies

(a) The number of vcflel

nployed in this branch of freight, was

divided by 1 j, as it is cflimated that thefe veflels make one voyage and a half in a year.

(b) The number of veflels in this branch of freight was divided by 3, as it is eftimatcd
that thefe veflels make three voyages in a year.

(c) The number of veflels, and their tonnage, employed in this branch of freight, was di-
vided by 3, as it is eftimatcd that thefe veflels alfo make three voyages in a year.

Before the War.

Since the War.

VelTel;, and tlieir tonnage, belonging to
merchants rdiJent in the prelent Britifh

cafiunally refluen' in the countries which
were then liritifh colonies, but now form
the United States.

Veflels belonging
were natives and pe

colonies, but now for

manent inhabitants
a were then Britiih
rathe United Statss.

Veflels
belonging to the fubjecb

Britiih dominions.

Veflels
belonging to the nibjccts
of the United States.

Veflels.

Tons.

Veflels.

Tons.

Vcffels.

Tons.

Veflels.

Ton,.

497

65,05s

165

21,686

26l

52-595

I63

26,564

228

9,816

32

1 ,402

367

46,106

43

I,869

'31

5,609

158

10,219

93

4,489

6S,

3*»423

l8l

20,912

1

83

4

249

52

4.837

862

81,3.5

983

60,369

1,019

134,669

163

■ 26,564

Recapitulation : Containing the increafe and decreafe under theforementioned different branches
of freight, and the increafe and decreafe On the whole.

Increafe on the 2d branch of freight
Ditto on the 3d ditto
Ditto on the 4th ditto
Ditto on the 5th ditto

Total increafe -

Decreafe on the. 1 ft branch of freight ■

Balance of increafe - -

British.

Veflels.

Tons.

139
115

88
5>

36,289
8,350

16,423
4.754

393
236

65,816
12,463

l57

53'353

Decreafe on the 1 ft - -
Ditto on the 2d - -
Ditto on the 3d - -
Ditto on the 4th - -
Ditto on the 5th - -

Total decreafe' - -
Increafe on the ift -

Balance of decreafe -

American.

Veflels.

Tons.

2

32

'3[

651

4

1,402
5,609

3 '.42 3
249

820

38,683
4.877

820

33,So6

[142

to the 30th of September 1790, diftinguiihing each
n Foreign VeiTels.

Maffac

Pennfy
Virgini
New '
Maryla
* South
f NorJ
Conned
Georgia
New h
+ Rhod
Delawai
New J

Total

Tonnage

of the
Whole.

197,369

107,919

103,894

92,114

88,255
40,360

35>l27
33>I72
27'245
17,01 r
9*841

5>924
5,860

766,091

RECAPITULATION.

Total Tonnage of each Country.
Viz.
United States -----

Great Britain - - 222,347

Ireland - - - - 3>H7-

France - - - I2>4-35*

Holland - - - - 8,815^
Spain ----- 8,55 1 i
Portugal - - - - 2,924
Denmark - - - - 1,619!
Germany - - - - 1*368

Pruffia 394

Sweden - - - - - 311]

Total - - ■

Tons.

S°3>177

225,494;

37>4*9;
766,091

ed States, in a period fubfequent to any of
)nging to the fubjects of the United States
tered their ports during that period; but
the other hand, the account given above
ofe years in the various branches of com-
onging to the faid States.

APPENDIX, NJ z. -—continued.

-An Account of the Tonnage of Veflels entered into the United States of America, from the lfc of Odob;r 1789, to the 30th of September 1790, diftinguifhing each
State according to the Magnitude of its Tonnage ; and dillinguilhing the American from Foreign Veflels.

[142

Maflachufets - - - - - -

Pennfylvania - - - - - -

Virginia -------

New York ------

Maryland - - - - - - -

* South Carolina - - - - -

+ North Carolina

Connecticut ------

Georgia -------

New Hampshire - - - - -

+ Rhode Ifland

Delaware - - - - - -

New Jerfey - - - - - -

Total

Coafting
Veflels.

53'°73
6,055

9.9n

6,203

16,099

508

5>723
6,330
1,090
1,670
1,626
. 1,061
3.429

,781

Fifhing
Veflels.

24,826

26,252

Veflels ii

the Overfi

Trade.

99,124

5'-594
33>56°
42,072
39,272
16,871
24,219
24,286

9-544
.11,376

7,061
3,080

364,144

177,023
57.6+9
43.529
48,275

55-431
1 7.379
29.942
30,616
10,634

»3»5I9

9'525
4,141
5.5H

5°3.'77

Ireland.'

Il'ROPr.Al

Veflels

belonging 1

other

853
9,665

4.092
6,921

9.485

4,256

244

I.570

34

37,420

Total
Tonnage

of the
Whole.

197,369
109,919
103,894

92,114

88,255

40,360

35.127

33.'72

27.245

17,01 1

9.841

5.924

5,860

766,091

RECAPITULATION.

Total Tonnage of each Country.
United States - -. - -
Great Britain - - 222,347
Ireland - - - - 3,147!

France - - - 13,4351

Holland - - - - 8,815!
Spain ----- 8,55 1 i
Portugal - - - - 2,924
Denmark - - - - 1,619!
Germany - - - - 1,368

Pruflia 394

Sweden - - - - - 3 1 1 1

Total - - -

Tons.
503,177

225,4941:

766,091

« In the Returns from Charles Town
t The Returns from this State did not
% The Returns from this State did not

Quarter is wanting, and not included,
lence till nth of March 1790.
lence'till 21ft of June 1790.

Note. — This Table contains an account of the tonnage of veflels entering the.feveral ports of the United States, in a period fubfequent to any of
thole years on which the averages fluted above were formed. It contains an account of all the tonnage belonging to the fubjects of the United States
of America, employed in every part of their foreign trade, their coalting trade, and their fillieries, which entered their ports during that period ; but
does not diftinguifb, what part of it was employed in their foreign trade with the Britifh dominions. On the other hand, the account given above
in the preceding tables, is only of fo much pf the tonnage of the United States as was employed during thofe years in the various branches of com-
merce, with fuch parts of the Biitiih dominions with which they are. allowed now to trade, in mips belonging to the faid States.

APPENDIX, Ns 2. 143

10; — Value of Exports from the United States to different
Parts of the World, from the Commencement of the Cuftom
floui'es in Auguft 1789, to 30th September 1790, viz.

Dollars.

Cents*.

Provifions -

5'757'482

Grain _____

2,519,232

Fifh -----

941,696

Lumber -

1,263,534

Live flock -

486,105

10,968,044

Other articles -

9,447,917

:84

Dolhrs. Cents.

Total

20,415,966 :

84

if thefe the Exports

To the Dominions of France

-

4,698,735 :

48

D\ Great Britain

-

9,363,416 :

■r?

D°. Spain

-

2,005,907 :

: 16

D°. Portugal ■ -

-

1,203,462

D°. United Netherlands

-

1,963,880 :

: 9

D". Denmark

_ _

224,415 :

: 5°

D°. Sweden

-

47,240

D\ Flanders

„

14,298

D°. Germany

-

487,787

: 14

D°. Mediterranean

-

41,298

D°. African Coaft and Iflands

139,984

D°. Eaft Indies

_

^S'181

D°. North Weil Coaft oi

7 America

10,362

20,415,966

:84

Exclufive of many packages omitted in the returns from the cuftom-
houfes, which were exported from the United States.

* A cent is one hundredth part of a dollar, or about a halfpenny.

v 11. — List

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

11. — List offuch Vessels (and the refpecrive Tonnage of eacfe
Denomination) as entered the Port of Philadelphia, from the
i ft Day of September 17725 to the iff. Day of September 1775,,
diftinguifhing each Year j and alio diftinguiftiing thole which were
owned in Great Britain, Ireland, and iuch Parts of the
British Dominions as are not now comprehended within the
United States (N° i) ; thofe which were owned in the Port
of Philadelphia alone (N° 2) ; and thofe which were owned in
the Thirteen Colonies which now compofe die United States
of America (Nc 3.)

N° 1. British.

/

-%

1772 to 1773.

1773 t0 x774-

1774 to 1775.

N° Tons.

N° Tors.

N3 Tons.

23 Ships - - - 3,508

28 Ships - - 4>3°4

35 Ships - - 5,59°

30 Brigantines 2,925

33 Brigantines 2,853

3 3 Brigantines 3 , 1 7.0

4 Snows - - - 370

12 Snows - 1,246

7 Snows - 730

22 Sloops - - 1,043

24 Sloops - 1,142

22 Sloops - 1,006

18 Schooners - 822

22 Schooners 962

17 Schooners 842

97 8,668

119 10,507

114 11,338

M° 2. Philadelphia

1772 to 1773.
N° Tons.

109 Ships - - 16,385
1 40 Brigantines 12,148
25 Snows — 2,902
39 Sloops - - 1,806
63 Schooners 3,226

376

36,467

1773 to 1774.
N° Tons.

1 16 Ships - - 17,569
176 Brigantines 15,749
18 Snows — 2,092
42 Sloops — 1,844
54 Schooners 2,939

406

40,2 1 3

177410 1775.
NQ Tons..

146 Ships - - 23,406
205 Brigantines 17,802.
17 Snows - - 1.972
36 Sloops — 1,844
35 Schooners 1,834

439

46,858

1772

APPENDIX, N» 2.
N° 3. America.

H5

I772 tO 1773.

N° 'J '.ms.

5 ."-Irps — - 7oo

46 BrigantJics 3,856

w - - 160

139 Sloops - - 6,503

80 Schooners -;

27:

*5>

1773 to i774.
N° Tons.

6 Ships - - 860
28 Brigantines 2,224

•ps - - 5,S76
S r Schooners - 1,962

250 12,922

i774 to i775.

N«

7 Ships - - 902

mtines 2,576

i Snow - - 80

1 30 Sloops - - 5,84 }

78 Schooners 4,025

246

3426

12. — A Table, (hewing what Proportion the Toxmage of Great-
Britain employed out of the Port of Philadelphia bore
to the Tonnage employed cut of that Port, and owned
therein, upon an Average of three Years antecedent to the War,
and what Proportion the Tonnage of Great Britain fo employed
then bore to the Tonnage of Philadelphia, united with the
Tonnage of the ether twelve American Colonies fo employed. —
Shewing alfo, what Proportion the Britilh Tonnage now
employed in the Trade of Philadelphia bears to the Tonnage
of all the United States employed out of that Port, upon an
Average of the lair, two Years.

Britilh - - - -
Philadelphia - - -
American - -

Philadelphia and Ame-
rica combined

l77Z-

Tons.

S,668
36,46/
15,118

I774-
Tons.
10,507

40,213

12,922

53>!35

Tons.
^333
46,858

13,426
60,284

Total
Tons.
30,503
123,538

41,466

165,004

By the foregoing table it appears, that the tonnage of Great Britain
employed out of the port of Philadelphia in the above years was not
equal to i-4th part of the tonnage employed 0 . vned in the.

port of Philadelphia ; — and that the 1 . c Britain then

Y 2 fu

M-6 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

fo employed, bore only a proportion as 2 does to 1 1 to the tonnage of Philadelphia,,
and the other twelve colonies combined, fo employed.

Britifh -

American

[ 1788.

I789.

Total

Tons.

Tons.

Tons.

23,004

29,372

52>376

2 8,0 2 8

37.7*8

65>756

By the above table it appears, that the tonnage of Great Britain employed out
of the port of Philadelphia in the years 1788 and 1789, amounted to within one-
fifth part of the tonnage of all the thirteen United States combined, fo employed..

13. — A List of British Vessels which entered the Port of Philadelphia the
following Years, viz. from 5th September 1787, to 5th September 1788.

British American.

From Great Britain.

Ireland.

Tons.

British West

Indies.
Tons.

Colonies.

Veffels. Tons.

Veffels.

Veffels.

Veffels.. Tons.

l6 Ships - - 3,748

4 Ships - -

1,02 1

I Ship - -

174

I Ship - - 160

19 Brigantines 2,907

1 Brig - -

J35

52 Brigs - -

6,229

6 Brigantines 462

3 Snows - - 456

1 Snow - -

9°

64 Sloops —

5>597

1 Schooner - 47

3 Sloops - - 198

24 Schooners

1,695

1 Schooner - 85

42 Sail. 7,394

6 Sail.

1,246

14 s Sail.

i3»695

8 Sail. 669

Total.
22 Ships
78 Brigantines
4 Snows -
67 Sloops -
26 Schooners

197 Sail Veffels 23,004 Tons.

A List

APPENDIX, N* 2.

17

A List of British Vessels which entered the Port of Philadelphia the
following Years, viz. from 5th September 1788, to 5th September 1789.

Frcm Great Britain.

Tons.

23 S lips - - 5,967

gantines 2,936

1 Snow - - 104

4 Sloops - - 223

1 Schooner- 42

4S Sail.

9>2;

Ireland.

V

effels.

Tons.

J5

Ships - -

2,961

5

ntines

63I

1

Snow - -

108

21 Sail.

British West Indies.

Veflels. Tons.

3 Ships - - 600
48 Brigantines 6,010
69 Sloops — 5,586
29 Schooners 2,^32

British American
Colo:::: s.

Vefl'cls. Tons.

1 Ship - - 162
10 Brigantines 1,060

2 Sloi ipS - 106

7 Schooners 544

149 Sail. 14,528 20 Sail.

Total.

42 Ships

82 Brigantines

2 Snows

75 Sloops

3/

29,372 I 01

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

14. — Account of Vessels belonging to other European Nations, which en-
tered the principal Ports of the United States in the following Years ; viz.

1787.

Charles Town.

Spain -

France - - -
United Netherlands

Altona - - - .

Bremen - - -

Denmark - -

Hamburgh - - -

Auilria - - -

178

France -

Holland

Spain

Portugal

Sweden -

Denmark

PrufTia -

14

-M

Sloops.

Philadelphia.

1

4

4
o

o
o
o

American

Tonnage.

1,073
7*f

799
2S0

19.3

164

130

l27

3,481

692
1,022

2>335

321

43°

lS7

_j88_

5>345

New

A P P E N D I X, N* 2.

149

789.

New York.

Ships.

Brigantines,

Schooners.

Sloops.

American
Tonnage.

France -

Holland
Spain
Portugal
Sweden -

I

3
3
0

5

1

3
4

O

O

I
I
O

0
0

4
0
0

I,OCO

960

1,580

1,380

400

9

J5

2

4

5,320

,78

| A T,

B-2

9-

2,664

2,348

3,000
2,500

1,758

JlJ

North Carolina

~a <2 >

— t±i

■x> -^

^

reft of the

Add to the 1
United St

Lbove amount one-fourth for the

26,416
6,604

Total amou

33,020

Which is little more than one-fourth of the tonnage of the veilels belonging
to Britiih merchants in all the different branches of this commerce, not al-
lowing, in either cafe, for repeated voyages,

150 A P P E N D I X, N° 2.

It is left to the intelligent reader to draw his own conclu lions from
the above tables and ftatefnents ; and, in addition to what has been
faid, I {hall only further obferve, that the total annual decreafe in
value, fince the war, of Britifh manufactures and other articles, ex-
ported from Great Britain to the countries belonging to the United
States, has amounted to - - -_--__ £. 098, -^n?

The total annual increafe in value, fince the war,
of the like articles, exported from Great Britain,
to the remaining Britifh colonies in North Ame-
rica, has been - ________ 449.677

To the Britifh Weft Indian iflands ----- 114,801
Total - - - - 564,478

So that upon the whole the annual increafe in value, fince the war,
of Britifh manufactures and other articles exported from Great Britain
to North America and the Weft Indies, has amounted to .£.166,085

The total annual decreafe in value, fince the war, of imports
into Great Britain from the United States, has amounted
to ---_--_____- £. 843,506

"The total annual increafe in value, fince the war, of imports
into Great Britain from the remaining Britifh colonies in
North America, has been ------£. 96,986

From the Britifh Weft Indian iflands - 671,066

Total - - - - £".768,052

So that upon the balance total, the decreafe has been - 75>454

This decreafe has been chiefly owing to the decreafed importation

of

APPENDIX, N* 2.

,5I

of tobacco and rice (the Americans not being any longer obliged to
(Lip their produce for Britilh ports only) amounting in value,

Upon 44,774,458 lbs. of the former, to - - -£.582,987

Upon 259,035 cwt. of the latter, to - - - - 196,526

In the whole to - - - - ^T. 779,5 1 3

The value of exports to the countries now belonging to the United
States, has exceeded the value of imports from thence, without in-
cluding Ireland, in a much greater proportion fince the war than be-
fore it j the balance of trade, therefore, is more in favour of Great
Britain.

It muft be highly fatisfa&ory to the reader to know, that the
value of the Britilh exports of 1789, exceeded thofe of 1784, to all
countries, by ----------- £.4,400,609

N. B. — The reader may poffibly difcover two or three trifling in-
accuracies, none of them, however (if there are any fuch) exceeding
a fraction, or at molt an unit, in the preceding computations ; which
the Editor has not thought it neceflary to notice.

IC2

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

if. — An Account of the Number of Ships and Brigs built in the
Ports of the United States, in the Year 1772, compared
with the like Veffels building in the faid States in 1789^.

States.

New Hamp/hire -.----

Maffachufets - - - - - -

Rhode I Hand - - - - - -

Connecticut - -

Total of the New England Provinces
New York -------

New Jerfey -------

Peniylvania -------

Maryland - - - - - - -

Virginia --------

North Carolina ------

South Carolina ----_.

Georgia _____..__

Total

* In the account of fhips and brigs built in the ports of the United States in the year
1772 ; there is no fpecification of the numbers built in each of the New England provinces,
but a total only of the number and tonnage of veffels bulk in all thefe provinces ; nor
was any account given of the tonnage of the eleven veffels building in the provinces of
New Hampfhire and Maffachufets Bay in 1789. So that it is not poffibie to make a
companfon of the quantity of tonnage of which the vefiels in the foregoing table confifts.

I

Veffels

772.

1

Veffels

789.

. Tons.

. Tons.

_

6

5

— "

123

18,149

11

Q

J5

1,640

—

—

1

80

1

200

18

2,897

14

2,966

8

1,626

5

1,200

7

933

—

—

3

253

—

~

2

213

—

~

5

753

—

—

182

31

S3

APPENDIX, N° 3.

Page£#, Line 24.

/T~S H E fuccefs of this institution lias in no degree correfponded to
the excellence of thedefign. The aboriginal Indians are from
their infancy accuftomed to an idle and roving life ; they are chiefly
employed in hunting, fowling, or fifhing, or, as foon as they are able
to carry arms or a tomahawk, to war ; and it is almoft impoffible to
reclaim them from this favage and diffipated mode of life. Not
many years ago, a remarkable inflar.ee happened at WilJiamfburg,
which greatly exemplifies the prefent obfervation : The Cherokees
had with difficulty been prevailed upon to fuffer one of their children,
a youth of nine or ten years of age, to be conducted to Williamfburg,
in order that he might be educated in Mr. Boyle's fchool. The
young Indian foon fhewed himfelf impatient of reftraint and confine-
ment; he grew fullen, would learn nothing, and although every means
were tried to pleafe him (for it was the wifh and intereft of the
colony that he mould be pleaied) appeared always diffatisfied and
unhappy. One morning he was miffed, and although every poffible
inquiry was made, no tidings could be heard, nor the leafl informa-
tion received concerning him: he had not been i'e<zn by anyone,
either planter or negro ; and as the diftance of the Cherokee country
was four or five hundred miles, feparated by large rivers abounding
with (harks, or immenfe foreffs full of venomous ferpents or wild
beafts, it wasjuftly apprehended that he muff inevitably perifh ; and
as it would be impoffible to convince the Indians of the real truth of
the cafe, it might unhappily occafion a war with the Cherokee nation,
a circumftance of the mod calamitous importance. It fortunately
happened, however, that the young Indian got fafe home; he headed
or fwam over the great rivers that obftru&ed his way ; concealed him-
z 2 felf

1 54 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

felf in the woods during the day, travelled in the night, fupported
himfelf with the tuckahoe and other roots and berries, and by that
natural fagacity which is characieriftic of the Indians * explored his
way through an immenfe extent of tracklefs woods and forefts to his
native cabin. At prefent the only Indian children in Mr. Boyle's
fchool are five or fix of the Pamunky tribe, who, being furrounded by
and living in the midft of our fettlements, are more accuftomed to the
manners and habits of the Englifh colonics.

A circumftance fimilar to the above I find mentioned by Mr.
Catefby in his Natural Hiftory of Carolina ; and it probably refers
to the fame event. The ftory, as I have related it, was communicated
to me by the Hon. and Rev. Mr. CommhTary Dawfon, Prefident of
the College.

Page 33, Line 9.

The character of the North American Indians is not to be
collected from obfervations upon the Pamunky, or any other In-
dian tribe living within the boundaries of the Britifh fettle-
ments. Thefe are in many refpects changed, perhaps not for the
better, from their original cuiloms and moral habits. In general
the North American Indians refemble each other in the great out-
lines and features of character, but intercourfe with the Europeans,
excefiive ufe of brandy and other fpirits, and, which is almoft
irrefiftible, the depravity and immoral example of our Indian
traders and back-fettlers, all thefe have concurred in a moft unfortu-
nate degree to corrupt and contaminate their minds. It is not my in-
tention

* A melancholy proof of the inferiority from his companions, could not find his

of Europeans to Indians in this refpecl hap- way back either to them, or to any of our

pened in the year 1757, when Col. Spotf- fettlements, though conftantly ufed to be out

wood, who was out with a party of rangers upon hunting-parties, and miferably pe-

formed of Virginia gentlemen, for the pro- riflaed in the woods,
te&ion of the frontiers, unfortunately ftrayed

A P P E N D I X, N° 3- 155

tcntion to enter into a difcuflion of this fubject, but the following
anecdotes, for the truth of which I can anfwer, may poflibly caft
fome light upon it, and may occafionally be of ufe to any future
hiflorian, who mall undertake to confider and treat of it more largely.
Previous to my arrival in Virginia, a war had been upon the point
of breaking out between the Nottoway and a tribe of the Tufcorora
Indians, on account of a murder that had been committed upon the
former by one of the latter nation ; they were both of them in alli-
ance with the Engliih, and as the war raged at that time with incre-
dible fury upon the frontiers, it was of great moment to prevent a rup-
ture; and, if poffible, to reconcile the differences between them.
For this purpofe frequent conferences had been held by the Lieu-
tenant Governor of Virginia with the chiefs of the Nottoway nation,
and feveral talks and negociations had pafled between them. The
bufinefs was not intirely concluded when I arrived at Williamlburg;
and very foon after a party of Indians arrived from the Nottoway
country, which borders upon North Carolina, on the fame errand.
Amongft thofe who compofed the train was a warrior, named Captain
Charles ; and as he was the principal perfonage entrufted by his
nation with the commiffion, I endeavoured to form an acquaintance
with him, and to infinuate myfelf into his good opinion; with this
view I invited him to my apartment, and by fhowing him fome little
civility I fo far fucceeded, that he expreiTed himfelf fenfible of my
attention, and promifed when he next came to Williamlburg, which,
he faid, if his nation approved of his million, he mould do very
fhortly, he would bring me fome prefent as a token of his acknow-
ledgment and remembrance. Accordingly fome time after, walking
in the ftreets of Williamfburg, I accidentally met him j and after ac-
cofling and faiuting him in the ufual manner, by giving him my
hand, and making a few enquiries, I faid, " Well, Captain Charles,
" where is the prefent you promifed me ?" — He immediately hung
down his head, and faid, " I have forgot it." — I inconliderately

replied,

iS6 TRAVELS THROUGH NOPvTH AMERICA;

replied, " It does not much fignify j but I thought an Indian never
" forgot his promife." After this we feparated, and I thought no
more of the tran faction ; but in the afternoon information was brought
to the Lieutenant Governor, that the Indians had fuddenly difappeared,
without having received the prefents intended for them by govern-
ment ; and that it was feared they had gone away in difguft,
and that the negociation would have an unfortunate iffue.
Two or three days paffed under thefe alarming circumftances. At
length, however, tHcy returned, increafed in number, and generally
laden with prefents, or curiofities intended for fale. It then appeared
that Captain Charles, ±t.ung with my reproach, had gone back to the
Nottoway country ; or, which is more likely, as he was abfent only
two or three days, into the fwamps or woods, to fetch the articles
which he had promifed me.

The other anecdote is of a muck more interefting and more
ftriking nature. About the year 1756, Col. Peter Randolph, Col.
Ir. Campbell, and other perfons, were fent upon an embaify
by the Governor of Virginia to the Cherokee country, in order, if
pomble, to cement more flrongly the friendfhip and alliance which
fubfiftedat that time between our colonies and thofe favages, and to
engage them more heartily in our caufe. The bufinefs was in train,
and likely to fucceed, when unfortunately the following mofr. flagrant
and atrocious act. of treachery, immediately put an end to the nego-
ciation, and eventually involved us in a new and bloody war with
the very nation, whofe friendfhip and aid it was the obj eel: of the
miffion to cement and make more firm and lafting. The reader
mould be informed, that the cruel depredations and ravages commit-
ted by the Indians after General Braddock's defeat, had induced go-
vernment to offer a confiderable premium for every fcalp of a hoftile
Indian, that mould be brought in by any of our rangers : this unfor-
tunately opened a door, and gave occafion to many ads of enormity ;
forfome of the back-fettlers, men of bad lives and worfe principle^
tempted by the reward, infidioufly maffacred feveral of our friendly

Indian.^

P E N D I X, N«

57

Indians, and afterwards endeavoured to defraud government of the
reward, by pretending that they were the fcalps of hoftile ti
Amongft others, a bad Augufta county, a captain of mi-

litia, whofe name ought to be delivered down to pofterity with in-
famy, treacheroufly murdered fo.r.c Cherokee Indians, who had
been out upon a military expedition in our behalf againfl the French,
under a pretence that they had pilfered iome of his poultry. He
had received and entertained them as friends ; and when they took
leave of him to return to their own country, he placed a party in
ambufh, murdered feveral of the poor unfufpecting Cherokees, and
then endeavoured to defraud government, by claiming the premium
affigned for the fcalps of hoftile Indians. A few of thofe who
efcaped the mafTacre arrived at the Cherokee town with the news of
this horrid tranfaction, juft at the moment when the embafly was
upon the point of concluding a very advantageous treaty: a violent
ferment immediately took place, and the Cherokees, in the utmoft
rage, aflembled from every quarter, to take initant revenge by putting
all the embafTadors to death.

Attakulla Kulla, or the Little Carpenter, a fteady friend of the
Englifh, haftened to the embafTadors, apprized them cf their danger,
and recommended to them to conceal or barricade themfelves as well
as they could, and not to appear abroad on any account. He then
affembled his nation, over whom he poflefled great influence, in the
council-room ; inveighed bitterly againfl the treachery of the Englifh ;
advifed an immediate war to revenge the injury; and never to lay
down the hatchet, till they had obtained full compenfation and
atonement for the blood of their countrymen. " Let us not, how-
" ever," fad he, " violate our faith, or the laws of hofpitality, by
" imbruing our hands in the blood of thofe who are now in our
" power ; they came to us in the confidence of friendfhip, with belts
" of wampum to cement a perpetual alliance with us. Let us carry
* " them

i-58 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

"• them back to their own fettlements; conducl: them fafely within
" their confines; and then take up the hatchet, and endeavour to
" exterminate the whole race of them." They accordingly adopted
thiscounfelj they conducted the embaffadors fafe to the confines ;
and as they could not obtain Satisfaction for the murder, by having
the offender delivered up to them, which they demanded, and which
ought to have been done, a dreadful war enfued, in which the
different tribes of the Cherokee nation became gradually involved ;
and which did not ceafe, or relax from its horrors, till terminated by
Col. Grant in the year 176 1, with ftill more horrid circumftances,
than any that had been exercifed during the carrying of it on.

This account was communicated to me by one of the gentlemen
engaged in the embaffy.

Mr. Jefferfon, in his Hiftory of Virginia, page 99, has related the
following circumflance, that occurred during this awful and interesting
tranfaction. Speaking of the ftrict obfervance and fidelity of Indians
in regard to their promifes and attachments, he fays; in a note,
" a remarkable inflance of this, appeared in the cafe of the late Col.
" Byrd, who was fent to the Cherokee nation to tranfact fome bufi-
" nefs with them. It happened that fome of our diforderly people
" had killed one or two of that nation, it was therefore propofed in
" council that Col. Byrd mould be put to death, in revenge for the
" lofs of their countrymen. Among them was a chief called
" Silouee, who on fome former occafion had contracted an acquaint-
" ance and friendship with Col. Byrd ; he came to him every night in
" his tent, and told him not to be afraid, they mould not kill him.
" After many days deliberation, however, the determination was,
" contrary to Silouee's expectation, that Byrd mould be put to death,
" and fome warriors were difpatched as executioners. Silouee at-
" tended them, and when they entered the tent, he threw himfelf
'• between them and Byrd, and faid to the warriors, This man is my
"friend, before you get at him you mujl kill me: — on which they
" returned, and the council reflected the principle fo much as to
" recede from their determination."

APPENDIX, N°4.

>~pH0MAS Lord Fairfax, defcended from a very ancient family
in Yorkshire, was born towards the latter end of the laft cen-
tury; I believe about the year 1691. He was the eldeft fon of
Thomas fifth Lord Fairfax, of Cameron, in the kingdom of Scot-
land, by Catherine, only daughter and heirefs of Thomas Lord
Culpepper ; in whofe right he afterwards pofTeffed Leeds Caftle,
with feveral manors and eftates in the county of Kent, and in the
Ifle of Wight ; and that immenfe tract of country, comprifed with-
in the boundaries of the rivers Potowmac and Rappahannoc in Vir-
ginia, called the Northern Neck; containing by eftimation five
millions feven hundred thoufand acres.

Lord Fairfax had the misfortune to lofe his father while young :
and at his deceafe he and his two brothers, Henry and Robert, and
four fitters, one of whom, named Frances, was afterwards married
to Denny Martin, Efq; of Loofe, in Kent, came under theguardi-
anlhip of their mother and grandmother, the dowager Ladies Fair-
fax and Culpepper; the latter of whom was a princefs of the
houfe of Heffe CaiTel.

Lord Fairfax, at the ufual age, was fent to the univerfity of
Oxford to complete his education ; and was highly efteemed there
for his learning and accomplishments. His judgment upon literary
fubjects was then, and at other times, frequently appealed to; and
he was one of the writers of that incomparable work, the Spectator.
After fome years refidence in the univerfity, he took a commffion
in the regiment of horfe, called the Blues, and remained in it, I
believe, till the death of the furvivor of the two ladies above men-
tioned ; who had ufually reiided at Leeds Caftle. Some time be-
fore their deceafe, a circumftance happened, that eventually oc-
caiioned him much ferious chagrin and uneafinefs. He had been
perfuaded, upon his brother Henry's arriving at the age o( tvventy-

A a one

i6o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

one years, or rather compelled by the ladies Culpepper and Fairfax,
under a menace, in cafe of refufd, of never inheriting the Northern
Neck, to cut off the intail, and to fell Denton Hall, and the
Yorkshire eftates, belonging to this branch of the Fairfax family,
which had been in their pofTeffion for five or fix centuries, in order
to redeem thofe of the late Lord Culpepper, that had defcended
to his heirefs, exceedingly encumbered, and deeply mortgaged. This
circumftance happened while Lord Fairfax was at Oxford, and is
faid to have occafioned him the greater vexation, as it appeared
afterwards, that the eflates had been difpofed of, through the
treachery of a fteward, for considerably lefs than their value; lefs
even than what the timber that was cut down to difcharge the
purchafe money, before the ftipulated day of payment came, was
fold for. He conceived a violent difguft againft the ladies, who,
as he "ufed to fay, had treated him with fuch unparalleled cruelty ;
and ever afterwards expreffed the keener! fevSe of the injury that
had been done, as he thought, to the Fairfax family. After
entering into poffeflion, he began to inquire into the value and
fituation of his eftates ; and he foon difcovered that the proprietary
lands in Virginia, had been extremely mifmanaged and under-let.
An agent, who at the fame time was a tenant, had been employed
by the dowager Lady Fairfax, to fuperintend her concerns in that
quarter of the world ; and he is faid to have abufed her confidence,
and to have enriched himfelf and family, as is too frequently the
cafe, at the expence of his employer. Lord Fairfax therefore
wrote to William Fairfax, Efq; his father's brother's fecond fon, who
held, at that time, a place of confiderable trull and emolument under
government in New England; requeuing him to remove to Vir-
ginia, and to take upon himfelf the agency of the Northern Neck.
With this requeft Mr. Fairfax readily complied ; and, as foon as
he conveniently could, he removed with his family to Virginia,
and fettled in Weflmoreland county. He there opened an agency
office for She granting of the proprietary lands ; and as the quit-
rent

APPENDIX, N'4. 161

rent demanded, was only after the rate of two Shillings for every
hundred acres, the vacant lands were rapidly let, and a confiderable
and permanent income was foon derived from them. Lord Fairfax,
informed of thefe circumstances, determined to go himfelf to Virginia,
to vifit his eftates, and the friend and relation to whom he was lb
greatly obliged. Accordingly, about the year 1739, he embarked
for that continent ; and on his arrival in Virginia, he went and
fpent twelve months with his friend Mr. Fairfax, at his houfe in.
Weftmoreland county j during which time he became fo captivated
with the climate, the beauties and produce of the country, that he
formed a refolution of returning to England, in order to profecute
a fuit, which he had with the Crown, on account of a confiderable
tract of land claimed in behalf of the latter by Governor Gooch ;
(which fuit was afterwards determined in his favour ;) and, after
making fome neceffary arrangements, and fettling his family affairs,
to return to Virginia, and fpend the remainder of his life upon his
vaft and noble domain there. I am not certain in what year this
happened, or how long Lord Fairfax remained in England. He was
prefent at his brother Robert's firft marriage, which, according to
Mr. Hafted, [fee Hift. of Kent, vol. II. page 478.] took place in the
year 1741 ; for he frequently mentioned the fatigue he underwent
in fitting up for a month together, full drefled and in form to
receive vifits upon that occaiion : nor did he go back to Virginia
before the year 1745 ; becaufe, when he arrived there, Mr. William
Fairfax had removed out of Weflmoreland into Fairfax county,
to a beautiful houfe which he had built upon the banks of the
Potowmac, a little below Mount Vernon, called Belvoir ; which he
did not do previous to that time. In all probability therefore,
Lord Fairfax firfl: went to America about the year 1739, returned
to England the year following, and finally fettled in the Northern
Neck in 1 746, or 1747. On his return he went to Belvoir, the
feat of his friend and relation Mr. William Fairfax, and remained
a a 2 fevera]

i6a TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

feveral years in his family, undertaking and directing the manage-
ment of his farms and plantations, and amufing himfelf with hunt-
ing, and the pleafures of the field. At length, the lands about
Belvoir not anfwering his expectation, and the foxes becoming
lei's numerous, he determined to remove to a fine trail of land on
the weftern fide of the Blue Ridge, or Apalachian mountains, in
Frederic county, about eighty miles from Belvoir ; where he built a
fmall neat houie, which he called Greenway Court ; and laid out
one of the moft beautiful farms, confifting of arable and grazing
lands, and of meadows two or three miles in length, that had ever
been feen in that quarter of the world, He there lived the re-
mainder of his life, in the ftile of a gentleman farmer ; or, I fhould
rather have faid, of an Englith country gentleman. He kept many
fervants, white and black ; feveral hunters ; a plentiful but plain
table, intirely in the Englifli faihion ; and his manfion was the
manfion of hofpitality. His drefs correfponded with his mode of
life, and, notwithllanding he had every year new fuits of clothes,
•of the moft fafhionable and expenfive kind, lent out to him from
England, which he never put on, was plain in the extreme. His
manners were humble, modeft, and unaffected ; not tinctured in
the fmalleft degree with arrogance, pride, or felf-conceit. He was
free from the felfifh paffions, and liberal almoft to excefs. The
produce of his farms, after the deduction of what was necefTary for
the consumption of his own family, was diftributed and given away
to the poor planters and fettlers in his neighbourhood. To thefe he
frequently advanced money, to enable them to go on with their
improvements; to clear away the woods, and cultivate the ground;
and where the lands proved unfavourable, and not likely to anfwer
the labour and expectation of the planter or hufbandman, he ufually
indemnified him for the expence he had been at in the attempt,
and gratuitoufly granted him freih lands of a more favourable and
promifing nature. He was a friend and a father to all who held and
lived under him ; and as the great object of his ambition was the
^. peopling

A P P E N D I X, N° 4. 163

peopling and cultivating of that fine and beautiful country, of which
he was the proprietor, he facrificed every other purfuit, and made
every other consideration Subordinate, to this great point.

Lord Fairfax had been brought up in revolution principles, and
had early imbibed high notions of liberty, and of the excellence
■of the BritiSh constitution, lie devoted a considerable part of his
time to the public fervice. He was Lord Lieutenant and CuStos
Rotulorum of the county of Frederic, prefided at the county courts
held at Winchester, where during the fcSfions he always kept open
table; and acted as furveyor and overfeer of the highways and public
roads. His chief if not fole amufement was hunting ; and in purfuit
of this exercife he frequently carried his hounds to distant parts of the
country j and entertained every gentleman of good character and de-
cent appearance* who attended him in the field, at the inn or ordinary,
where he took up his refidence for the hunting feaibn. So unexcep-
tionable and disinterested was his behaviour, both public and private,
and fo generally was he beloved and reSpected, that during the late
conteSt between Great Britain and America, he never met with the
lead infult or moleftation from either party, but was fuffered to go on
in his improvement and cultivation of the Northern Neck; a purfuit
-equally calculated for the comfort and happinefs of individuals, and
for the general good of mankind.

In the year 175 1, Thomas Martin, Efq; fecond fon of his Sifter
Frances, came over to Virginia to live with his lordShip; and a cir-
cumstance happened, a few years after his arrival, too characteristic
of Lord Fairfax not to be recorded. After General Braddock's
.defeat in the year 1755, the Indians in the intereSt of the French,
committed the moll dreadful mafiacres upon all our back fettlements.
Their incurfions were every where Stained with blood ; and daughter
and devastation marked the inroads of thefe cruel and mercilefs Sa-
vages. Every planter of name or reputation became an object, of their
infidious deSigns; and as Lord Fairfax had been pointed out to them
-as a -captain or chief of great renown, the poSTeffion of his fcalp became

an

1 64 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMIGA.

an objed of their fanguinary ambition, and what they would have
regarded as a trophy cf ineflimable value. With this view they
made daily inroads into the vicinage of Greenway Court; and it is
faid, that not lefs than 3,000 lives fell facrifices to their cruel barbarity
between the Apalachian and Alleghenny mountains*. The moll
ferious appreheniions were entertained for the fafety of Lord Fair-
fax and the family at Greenway Court. In this crifis of danger his
lordfhip, importuned by his friends and the principal gentry of the
colony to retire to the inner fettlements for fecurity, is faid to have
addrefied his nephew, who now bore the commiffion of colonel of
militia, nearly in the following manner: — "Colonel Martin, the
'•* danger we are expofed to, which is undoubtedly great, may poffibly
" excite in your mind appreheafion and anxiety. If fo, I am ready
" to take any ftep that you may judge expedient for our common
" fafety. I myfelf am an old man, and it is of little importance
" whether I fall by the tomahawk of an Indian or by difeafe and old
** age : but you are young, and, it is to be hoped, may have
" many years before you. I will therefore fubmit it to your
" decifion, whether we mall remain where we are, taking every pre-
v caution to fecure ourfelves againfl the outrages of the enemy ; or

" abandon

» It was at this crifis that the gentlemen could fave the wretched inhabitants from

of Virginia afTociated themfclves under the defrruc"tion. All was hurry and confufion

command of Peyton Randolph ; Efq. after- every one endeavouring to efcape death, by

wards Prefident of the firft Congrefs, for flying from his own to fome other town or

the protection of the frontiers. The dif- plantation, where the alarm and confterna-

may occafioned by the ravages of the Indians tion were equally great. At length certain

was indefcribable. Upon one day in par- information was brought, that the Indians

ticular an univerfal panic ran like wild- Were frill beyond the mountains at lead 1 50

fire through every part of Virginia; rumour miles off: and then, every one began to

reporting, tnat the Indians had palTed the WOnder, as they did in London after the

mountains, were entering Williamsburg, panic during the rebellion of 1745, how it

and indeed every other town at the fame was poflible that fuch an alarm could have

moment, had fcalped all who came in their ar;fen ; 0r whence it could have originated,
way, and that nothing but immediate nigh

APPENDIX, N°4. 165

" abandon our habitation and retire within the mountains, that we
w may be fheltered from the danger, to which we are at prefent ex-
" pofed. If we determine to remain, it is poiTible, notwithstanding
*' our utmoft care and vigilance, that we may both fall victims ; if we
«' retire, the whole diftrict will immediately break up ; and all the
" trouble and folicitude which I have undergone to fettle this fine
" country will be fruftrated; and the occafion perhaps irrecoverably
" loft." Colonel ?vlartin, after a mort deliberation, determined to
remain, and as our affairs in that quarter foon took a more favouable
turn, and meafures were adopted by government for fecuring our
fettlements againft the carnage and depredation of the Indians, the
danger gradually diminiflied, and at length intirely difappeared.
From that time to the prefent little or no moleftation has been given
to' the back fettlements of the Northern Neck, extending from the
Apalachian to the Alleghenny mountains.

Lord Fairfax, though polieifed of innumerable good qualities,
had fome few fingularities in his character, that occafionally
expofed him to the fmiles of the ignorant: but they reiembled
the folar fpots, which can fcarcely be faid to diminiih the fplen-
dor of that bright luminary upon whole diik they appear.
Early in life he had formed an attachment to a young lady of
quality; and matters had proceeded fo far, as to induce him
to provide carriages, clothes, fervants, and other neceffary appendages
for fuch an occafion. Unfortunately, or rather let me fay fortunately,
before the contract was fealed, a more advantageous or dazzling offer
was made to the lady, who thought herfelf at liberty to accept it;
and fhe preferred the higher honour of being a duchefs to the infe-
rior ftation of a baronefs. This disappointment is thought to have
made a deep impreffion upon Lord Fairfax's mind ; and to have had
no inconfiderable fhare in determining him to retire from the world,
and to fettle in the wild and at that time almoft uninhabited forefts
of North America. It is thought alio to have excited in him a
general diflike of the fex; in whofe company, unlefs he was par-
ticularly

*66 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

ticularly acquainted with the parties, it is faid he was referved and
under evident constraint and embarraffment. But I was prefent,
when, upon a vifit of ceremony to Lieutenant Governor Fauquier,
who had lately arrived from England, he was introduced to his lady,
and nothing of the kind appeared to juftify the obfervation. He re-
mained at the palace three or four days ; and during that time his
behaviour was courteous, polite, and becoming a man of fafhion. He
poffibly might not entertain a very favourable opinion of the fex;
owing partly to the above mentioned circumftance, and partly to the
treatment he had experienced from the ladies of Leeds Cattle ; but
this does not feem to have influenced his general behaviour in regard
to them. He had lived many years retired from the world, in a
remote wildernefs, fequeilered from all polifhed fociety ; and per-
haps might not feel himielf perfectly at eafe, when he came into
large parties of ladies, where ceremony and form were to be ob-
ferved j but he had not forgot thofe accomplished manners which
he had acquired in his early youth ; at Leeds Caftle, at the uni-
verfity, and in the army. His motive for fettling in America was
of the moO. noble and heroic kind. It was, as he always himfelf
declared, to fettle and cultivate that beautiful and immenfe tract
of country, of which he was the proprietor ; and in this he Suc-
ceeded beyond his moft fanguine expectations, for the Northern
Neck was better peopled, better cultivated, and more improved,
than any other part of the dominion of Virginia. Lord Fairfax
lived to extreme old age at Greenway Court, univerfally beloved,
and died as univerfally lamented, in January or Feburary 1782,
in the 9 2d year of his age. He was buried I believe at Win-
chefter, where he had fo often, and fo honourably prefided as
judge of the court. He bequeathed Greenway Court to his nephew
Colonel Martin, who has iince conftantly reiided there ; and his
barony defcer.ded to his only fufviving brother Robert Fairfax, to
whom he had before configned Leeds Caftle, and his other Englilh

eftates.

Robert,

A P P E N D I X, N° 4. 167

Robert, feventh Lord Fairfax, died at Leeds Caftle in 1791,
and bequeathed that noble manfion, and its appendages, to his
nephew the reverend Denny Martin, who has fince taken the
name of Fairfax, and is (till living.

The barony or title by regular defcent is vetted in Brian Fairfax,
third fon of William Fairfax above mentioned., who lives in Vir-
ginia; and of whom more will be faid in the 1 auel.

Having fo frequently mentioned William Fairfax, Efquire, who
came from New -England, to take upon himfelf the agency of the
Northern Neck, it may not be unacceptable to the reader, to learn
lbmething of the hiflory of that worthy and refpedtable gentleman ;
and of the leveral branches of the Fairfax family defcended from him,
who are now fettled in Virginia. William Fairfax, was the fecond fon
of the honourable Henry Fairfax of Towlfton Hall, in Yorkshire.
This gentleman's father Thomas, fourth Lord Fairfax, left, befides
other children, two fons, viz. Thomas, who fucceeded him in the
barony, and who married the heirefs of the Culpepper family;
and Henry, father of William, of whom I am now fpeaking.
William, his father dying while he was young, was educated under
the aufpices of his uncle and godfather, the good Lord Lonfdale,
at Lowther fchool, in Weftmoreland j where he acquired a com-
petent knowledge, not only of the daffies, but of the modern
languages. At the age of twenty-one he entered into the army,
and ferved in Spain during queen Anne's war, under his uncle
colonel Martin Bladen, to whom he was alfo fecretary. At the
conclufion of that war, he was prevailed upon to accompany captain
Fairfax of the navy, who was alfo his relation, and other godfather,
to the Eaft Indies ; but the fea not agreeing with him, he at his
return took a fecond commiflion in the army, and went upon the
expedition againft the Ifland of Providence, at that time in pofTeffion
of pirates. After the reduction of the ifland, he was appointed
governor of it, and he there married, March the 27th, 1723-4.
Sarah, daughter of major Thomas Walker, who, with his family

b r had

i6S TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

had accompanied the expedition, and was afterwards appointed
chief juftice of the Bahama Iflands. By this lady he had a fon,
born the 2d of January following, whom he named George William.
His health fuffering extremely at this place, from the intenfe heat
of the climate, he applied to government for ah appointment in
New England, and he had removed to that country, and was there
refident, when folicited by Lord Fairfax, to take upon himfelf the
agency of the Northern Neck. During his abode in New England,
he had the misfortune to lofe his lady, by whom he had two fons
and two daughters: George William, mentioned above, who was
born in the Ifland of Providence ; and Thomas, Anne, and Sarah,
born in New England.

Mrs. Fairfax upon her death-bed, requeued her hufband, after
her deceafe, to marry a Mifs Deborah Clarke, of Salem, a lady of
uncommon underllanding, and her mod intimate friend ; from a
conviction, which appeared to be well founded, that me would
prove a kind ftep-mother, and faithful guardian to her orphan
children. Accordingly Mr. Fairfax, in compliance with this re-
queft, fome little time before he removed to Virginia, efpouled this
lady, and by her had three other children, viz. two fons and a daughter,
named Brian, William, and Hannah ; fo that he had in the whole
feven children, four fons and three daughters, moil of whom fur-
vived him. He departed this life at Belvoir, the 3d day of Sep-
tember 1757, aged fixty-fix years. Mr. William Fairfax was a
gentleman of very fine accomplishments, and general good character.
He was a kind hufband, an indulgent parent, a faithful friend, a
iincere Chriftian; and was eminently diftinguifhed for his private
and public virtues. Through the intereft of two of his relations,
Brian and Ferdinando Fairfax, who lived in London, and of whom
the former was a commifiioner of the excife, he had been appointed
Lord Lieutenant and Cuftos Rotulorum of the county of Fairfax, col-
lector of the cuftoms of South Potowmac, and one of his majefty's
council ; of which, in procefs of time, he became prefident, and
* continued

APPENDIX, N*4. 169

continued in that honourable ftation many years. He was fucceeded
in his eftate and employments by his eldeft fon George William
Fairfax. — George William, at an early age, had been lent to Eng-
land for education, and had been brought up in the fame principles
which had been profefled by Lord Fairfax, and the reft of the fa-
mily. At his return to Virginia, he married Sarah, daughter of
Colonel Cary, of Hampton upon James river, of the family of
Hunfdon ; and ufually refided at his beautiful place at Belvoir, ex-
cept during the feffions of the afTembly and of the general courts,
when his duty, as one of his majefty's council, obliged him to be at
Williamfburg.

In the year 1 773, fome eftates in Yorkshire having devolved to
him by the death of Henry, his father's elder brother, he found it
neceflary to go to England to take pofleifion of them. So critical
v/as his arrival, that he pafled in the river Thames the ill-omened
tea, which eventually occafioned the feparation of the American
colonies from the mother- country. During the ten years conteft,
the confequences of which Mr. Fairfax early forefaw and lamented,
his eftates in Virginia were fequeftered, and he received no re-
mittances from his extenfive property in that quarter of the world.
This induced him to remove out of Yorklhire, from a houfe which
he had recently furnifhed, to lay down his carriages, and to retire
to Bath, where he lived in a private but genteel manner ; and con-
fined his expences fo much within the income of his Englifh eftates,
that he was able occafionally to fend large fums to the government
agent, for the ufe and benefit of the American prifoners. He died
at Bath, generally lamented on account of his many virtues and
accomplifhments, on the 3d of April 1787, in the fixty-third year
of his age ; and was buried in Writhlington church, in the county
of Somerfet, a few miles diftant from that city. He left a widow, a
very amiable lady, of diftinguiihed merit, in great affluence ; who has
ever fmce refided in Bath. Having no illue, he bequeathed his Vir-
b b 2 ginia

j To TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

ginia eftates to Ferdinando, the fecond Ton of his half-brother Brian*
the prefent Lord Fairfax.

Thomas, fecond fon of William Fairfax by Sarah Walker, and own
brother to the above, entered into the navy j and was killed in an ac-
tion in the Eaft Indies on the 26th of June 1746. He was efteemed
one of the handfomefr. men of his age. The following infcription to*
his memory, was written by his difconfolate father, a few hours
after he had received the melancholy account of his death :

" To the memory of Mr. Thomas Fairfax, fecond fon of William.
" Fairfax, Efquire • who died, fighting in his country's caufe, on-
" board the Harwich fhip of war, in an engagement with Monfieup
" Eourdenaye, commander of a French fquadron on the Indian
" coaft, the 2.6th day of June 1746, and in the twenty-firft year of
" his age; beloved of his commander captain Carteret, and highly
" favoured by his friend commodore Barnet, for his politenefs of
" manners. He was a comely perfonage ; of undoubted bravery p
" fkilled in the theory of the profsflion ; excelled by few as a navaL
u draughtfman j and gave early promifes, by a pregnant genius and
'* diligent application, of a confummate officer for the fervice of his
" country. But the wifdom of Heaven is infcrutable : human life.
" is ever in the hands of its author : and while the good and brave
" are always ready for death, refignation becomes their furviving.
" friends. — Convinced of this duty, yet fubdued by the fentiments
" of a tender parent, this tablet was infcribed and dedicated by hia
" forrowful father :

" May, Britain, all thy fons like him behave j
" Like him be virtuous, and like him be brave :
*' Thy fiercefl foes undaunted he withflood,
•* And perifh'd fighting for his country's good.'5

Anne, eldefi: daughter of William Fairfax, by Sarah Walker, was
married to Lawrence, elder brother of Colonel, now General Wafli-

ino-tcn.

A P P E N D I X, N" 4. i7i

ington. Lawrence, who had been educated in England, was a cap-
tain in the army, and poffeffed a very confiderable landed property
in Virginia. An infant daughter was the only fruit of this marriage,
who died under feven years of age. At her deceafe, her father being
alio dead, General Washington fucceeded to Mount Vernon, and
feveral fine Virginian eftates, the property of this branch of the
Washington family. Anne, after the death of Lawrence Washing-
ton her hufband, married George Lee, Efquire, the head of that nu-
merous family in Virginia; and left behind her three fons, who are
now living, viz. George Fairfax Lee, Launcclot Lee, and William
Lee.

Sarah, fecond daughter of William Fairfax by Sarah Walker,
was married to Mr. Carlyle, a merchant of Alexandria, in Fairfax-
county, and left two daughters ; the eldeft married to Mr. Herbert,
a merchant of the fame place j the younger to Mr. Whiteing, a
private gentleman of good fortune. Mrs. Whiteing died in child-
bed of her firft child, a fon, who is now living.

Brian, eldeft fon of the fecond marriage of William Fairfax with
Deborah Clarke, the prefent and eighth baron, married Elizabeth,
youngeft daughter of Wilfon Cary, Efquire, of the family above
mentioned, and lives upon his efiate at a place called Towlfton, in
Fairfax county. He has, by this marriage, two fons, viz. Thomas
and Ferdinando, and one daughter, named Elizabeth, married to
Mr. Griffith, the fon of an American bifhop. He has alfo a daugh-
ter by a fecond marriage. — Thomas has been twice married, but
has had the misfortune to lofe both his wives, precifely at the fame
period of time, viz. the end of three months, by ficknefs and other
indifpofition, attendant upon pregnancy. — Ferdinando, heir, as was
above mentioned, to George William Fairfax, married a daughter
of Wilfon Miles Cary, Efquire, brother to the widow of the laid
George William, which marriage made the fifth connexion between
the families of Fairfax and Cary, either in England or Virginia.

William Fairfax, fourth fon of William Fairfax, and the fecond

by

172 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

by his fecond marriage, was educated at Wakefield fchool, in York-
shire; ferved in the army, and was killed at the fiege of Quebec.
He was a young man of very promifing abilities, and much efteemed
by General Wolfe. When the general landed, he faw young Fair-
fax fitting upon the bank of the river j and immediately running up
to him, he clapped him on the moulder, and faid, " Young man,
" when we come to action, remember your name." Alas! they
unfortunately both fell in the fpace of a few hours.

Hannah, youngeft child of William Fairfax by his fecond mar-
riage, is married to Warner Washington, eldeft fon of General
Washington's father's eldeft brother, and the head of that now il-
luftrious family. She has two fons and four daughters ; all, except
the youngeft daughter, married to perfons of condition and distinc-
tion in Virginia.

Thefe anecdotes of the feveral branches of the Fairfax family,
now domiciliated in Virginia, may, perhaps, not be unacceptable
to the reader, and especially to the friends of that noble family.
They are, I believe, correct, and may be relied upon. I received
them from unquestionable authority; from a perfon intimately
connected with the family ; who, from repeated converfations with
Thomas, late Lord Fairfax ; Mr. William Fairfax ; his fon George
William ; Mrs. Mary Sherrard, firft coulin to Thomas Lord Fair-
fax, and aunt to the prefent Earl of Harborough ; Lady Lucy
Sherrard ; and many noble relatives of the family refiding in the
north of England ; was well qualified to give the information.

73

Appendix, N9 5.

DIARY

WE A T H E A\

74 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

Farenheit's
Thermometer.

JANUART, 1760.

>x

u .

£

Weather.

0 £

Q

0 5

h

i£

33*

96

Vital

heat.

1

8

2

85

Very
hot.

Hot.

3
4
5
6

7
8

75

9

65

Warm

10

air.

11

12

55

Temper-

x3

14

—

10

N.W.
N.W.

Quite clear.
Clouded.

ate.

15

—

10

16

—

20

N.W.

Snow.

45

Cold

»7
18

z

26
34

N.W.

s. w.

Rain and freezing hard.
A thaw.

»9

—

36

s. w.

A thaw.

2©

—

49

S. E.

Rain.

32

Froft.

21
22

—

36

23

N. E.

N.W.

Rain.
Quite clear.

23

—

19

N. E.

Quite clear.

24

—

25

S. W.

Quite clear.

Hard

25

—

3°

s. w.

Quite clear.

20

froft.

26

—

25

S. E.

Quite clear.

27

—

40

s. w.

Rain.

1 2

Froft 1740.

28

—

24

s. w.

N.W.

Quite clear.
Little cloudy.

29

— —

34

Froft 1709.

3°

—

34

s. w.

Cloudy.

3*

24

N.W.

Quite clear.

APPENDIX, N' 5.

175

F EBRUARl', 1760.

Q

1

3 B

0 s

h
3°

.E?~

Weather.

=!

8

s. w.

Sleet and rain.

2

26

S. E.

Quite clear,

3

— ■

21

N.W.

Quite clear.

4

—

3!

S. E.

Quite clear.

5
6

46

s.

Clouded.

49

E.

Little clouded -

62

7

—

46

S.W.

Quite clear - -

62

8

—

49

N. E.

Quite clear - - - -

58

9

—

33

E,

Quite clear.

10

— .

38

N. E.

Clouded - - - - -

52

1 1

37

N.

Quite clear.*

12

28

S.W.

Quite clear.

13

52

S.W.

Little clouded - -

66

H

—

S^

S.W.

Hazy - -

7°

l5
16

38

N.

Milling rain.

35

N.

Little cloudy.

17
18

34

N.-W.

Clouded, little fnow.

— -

22

N.W.

Quite clear -

3°

T9

—

25

S.W.

Quite clear -

43

20

—

34

S. E.

Hazy - - . - -

48

21

—

41

S.

Hazy ------

64

22

—

49

w.

Quite clear - - - -

56

23

—

36

N. W.

Quite clear.

24

—

40

s. w

Little cloudy.

25

—

45

S. E.

Quite clear - -

56

26

—

53

s.

Hazy -

72

27

—

59

N. E.

Clouded -----

76

28

—

49

N. E.

Clouded - -

54

29

42

N. E.

Rain ------

37

y'o

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

MAR

C H, 1760.

Q

I

8

h
32

>

Weather.

*i

E.

Clouded.

2

—

34

N.

Little cloudy.

3

—

40

N. E.

Clouded - - - - -

54

4

—

51

S. W.

Showery and windy -

59

5

—

40

w.

Little cloudy and windy -

45 ■

6

—

35

s.w.

Quite clear - -

52 -

7

—

45

s. w.

Hazy - - - - _

54

8

—

48

s.w.

Rain ______

5° !

9

—

35

N.

Milling rain - - - -

38

JO

—

32

W.

Clouded - -

45 .

1 1

—

32

N. E.

Little cloudy -

4-3

12

—

35

S. E.

Clouded - - - - _

54

13

—

49

S. E.

Rain ______

54 .

H

—

45

N. E.

MiQing rain - -

43 '

15

—

37

N. E.

Clouded - - - - -

39

16

—

3°

N.

Thick fnow - - - -

32

17

—

26

N. W.

Snow _

32

18

—

27

N. W.

Quite clear -

38

l9

—

39

S. W.

Clouded - - - - -

52

20

—

4r

N.W.

Cloudy - - - -

33

21

—

29

N. E.

Snow -

34

22

—

36

N. E.

Rain ------

39

23

—

39

E.

Little clondy -

5°

21

—

45

E.

Little cloudy - - -

52

25

—

49

S. E.

Little cloudy - - -

56

26

—

41

N. W.

Quite clear - - - -

48

27

—

43

S. W.

Quite clear - - - -

54

z8

—

53

S. w.

Quite clear - _ _ _

7° ■

29

—

64

s. w.

Hazy _ _ - _ -

74

3°

—

S7

s. w.

Rain ------

67

31

~

66

w.

Showery _ -

64

APPENDIX, N*

i77

APRIL, 1760.

'1

b _,

c

-d

Wbathbr.

3 a

c z.

I

^c s

h

^

55

8

49

N. W.

Quite clear - - - -

2

—

5°

S.

Quite clear - - - -

67

7°
76

3

—

61

s. w.

Clouded - - - - _

4

—

65

S. E.

Quite clear - - _ _

5

—

7°

W.

Quite clear, thunder - -

79
60

6

—

57

E.

Clouded - - - _ _

7

—

5°

N. W.

Thunder, clouded - -

65
5°

5°

S

—

47

N. E.

Thunder, clouded - -

9

—

45

N. E.

Clouded - - - - _

10

—

64

S. W.

Little cloudy, thunder -

85

52
56

1 1

—

44

N. E.

Small rain - - - _

12

—

53

N. E.

Little cloudy - - _ _

J3

—

53

S. E.

Clouded - - - _ _

69

14

—

67

s. w.

Little cloudy - - - -

73

J5

—

7°

s. w.

Cloudy, thunder - - -

80

j6

—

48

N.W.

Little cloudy - - -

58

*7

—

53

S. E..

Clouded -----

5°
5°

iS

—

45

N. E.

Clouded - - - _

l9

—

55

W.

Quite clear - -

71

20

—

59

s. w.

Quite clear, thunder - -

77
77
75
76

2 1

. —

64

E,

Quite clear - -

22

—

65

S. E.

Clouded -_-__

23

—

65

S..W.

Cloudy and mowers - -

24

—

69

S. E.

Quite clear - -

7°

25

—

70

S. E.

Quite clear - - - -

80

26

—

74

S. W.

Quite clear -

84

27

—

77

s. w.

Quite clear, thunder - -

85

20

—

70

s. w.

Quite clear -

80

29

—

65

N. W.

Quite clear - - - -

69

3-

62

N.W.

1

Quite clear - - -

60

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

MAT, 176 0.

I

2

3
4

5
6

7
8

9
10
1 1
12

J3

14
'5
16

J7

18

19

2.0
21
22

23
24

25
26
27
28
29

5a

5r<

52
^4
65
58
60
60
72
7l
65
58
60
68
67

74
68
66

72
64

73
71
76
61
64
64
69
71

N.W.

N. E.

W.

s. w.
s. w.

N. E.
N. E.
S. E.
S. W.

s. w.

N. E.
N. E.

s. w.

N.W.

vv.

s. w.

s. w.

w.

N.W,
N. W.
N. E.
N. E.
N. E.
W.
N.W

"WEATHER.

Quite clear - - -
Little cloudy
Quite clear - - -
Quite clear - - -
Foggy, little rain -
Clouded - -
Quite clear - - -
Quite clear - - -
Quite clear - - -
Quite clear, thunder
Little cloudy
Rain, thunder -
Cloudy, thunder -
Cloudy - - - •
Little cloudy -
Clouded, little rain
Little cloudy
Cloudy, thunder -
Cloudy - - -
Little cloudy - -
Quite clear - -
Rain, thunder -
Clouded -
Rain, thunder -
Quite clear -
Thunder -

APPENDIX, Na 5.

179

JUNE,

I

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

io
1 1
12
J3
H
'5
16

r7

18

19

20

22

23
24

25
26

27
28
29

3°

77
77
80

83
62

65
65

67
7°
65
74
73
80
82
86
90
78
73
66

78
80

73
68
72
76
73
76
80
81

We ati

Thunder -
Rain - -
Thunder -

Rain - -

Thunder - ■
Thunder -
High wind

Rain, thunder
Thunder -

j8o TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

J v L r, 1760.

T3

£

80

.

75
81

'

87

75

_.

72

— —

72

71

'

73

75

84

i ,

84

86

—

87

87

83

77

75

80

77

75

8o

84

88

89

86

7«

74

80

80

72

1

Weather.

Thunder

Thunder
Rain -

Small rain
Rain - -

Thundc
Rain -
Rain -
Rain -
Rain -

Thunder
Thunder

Thunder

Rain

APPENDIX, N« 5.

181

AUGUST,

Q

1
2

3
4

5
6

7
8

9

10
1 1
12
J3
14

'5

16

J7

18

19

20
21

22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30

87
89

89
90
80
84

79

84
80
8^
78
72

78
76
77
83
76
84
72

Weather.

Rail

Thunder

Thunder -
Thunder -
Rain -
Thunder -

Rail

Thunder

84
81

78
78
84
89
90

91
92

91
93
94
94
86
88

87
86
! 88
88
83
79
83
84
84
86

83
89

78

96

i82 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

SEPTEMBER,

760.

1

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9
10
1 1

12
*3
14

*5

16

J7
18

19
20
21
22

23
24
25
26
27
28
29
3°

h.

-6

c-

&

85

78

8^

80

7°

73

73

75

80

80

80

80

76

69

82

■ ■■-■

71

67

95

— —

64

52

49

63

71

■

62

52

52

58

c»4

59

58

Thunder
Thunder

A (hower

A fhower
Rain - -

Ra

88
80
88
82
76
78
78
81
86

87

86

83
78-
80

91

72
72
62
68

65

64

76
79
7°
64
69-
71
77
67
67

A P P E N D I X,

■

OCTOBER, 1760.

Q

3 c

1

8

2

—

3

—

4

—

5
6

7
8

9

—

10

—

12

—

J3

—

H

—

M

—

16

—

'7

—

18

—

19

—

20

—

21

—

22

—

2 3

—

2 +

—

2?

—

26

—

27

—

28

—

29

—

3°

—

31

54
5 f
55
57
58
57
57

5»
62
62
62

5°
62

7°
49
49
45
5°
54
5°
48

43
4^
63
5°
48

5°
45

45

Milling: rain

Rain

Lictle Rain -

Rain

63
67
7°
73
63
57
59
67
68

7°

66

73
68
60

59
62
68

7°
53
59
57
60

71
53
69

63
60

43
49

io4

TRAVELS THROUGH NOPvTH AMERICA,

NO {■' EMBER.

io
1 1

12

r3

lS

16

17

18

19
20
21
22

23
24

25
26
27
28
29
3°

43

47
5°

5°
54
40

35
3°
43
42
40

3°

42

33
25
27

35
36
28
38
48
48

49
51
41
36

33

Weather.

Little fnow

Little rain
Rain - -
Rain - -

APPENDIX, N

««5

DECK M B E R.

I

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

io
1 1

12

>3
H

J5
16

l7
18

19

20
21
22

23
24

25

26
27
28
29
3°
3l

3°
34
41
51

38

35
38
35

44

55
40

44
29

48
63
27
3°
21
24
44

25
23
32
42
42
44
27
24

Weather.

Rain

Rain
Rain

Rain
Snow

Rain - - -
Milling rain -

Rain

1 86 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

JANUARY, 1761

29
26

27
10
12
22
20
23
23
27

21

5
18

*5

28

36
28
3>
34
28

42

32
22

34
24
35
49
44
32
46
46

N.W.

N.W.
N.W.
N. E.

N.
N. E.

N.
S. W.

N.
N.W.

N.
N.W.

N.
N.W.

W.
N. E.
S. W.

W.

s. w.
s. w.

N.W.
N.W.

W.
N. E.

s. w.

s.

N. E.

N. E.

S.

NT. W.

Weather.

Clear - - -
Snow -
Flying clouds
Clear -

Snow - - -

Snow
Clouded

Clouded
Clouded
Clouded

Rain

Flying clouds
Cloudy - -

Cloudy

Clouded

Cloudy

Cloudy

Clouded

Clouded -
Clouded -
Flying clouds

APPENDIX, N"

8?

FEBRUJRT,

761

I

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

10
1 1
12
13
H
J5
16

*7
18

]9
20
21
22
2 3
2+
2 5
26

27

28

2 4
34
3°
22

r5
23
45
57
38
34
37
35
40

39

3^

37

35
36
5;
49
36
29

.2 2

31
49

38
35

N.W.
S. W.

N. E.
N.W.
N.W.
N. E.
S.

s. w.

N. E.

N. E.
N. E.
N. E.
N.E.
N. E.
N.E.
N.E.
N.W.
S. E.
S. W.

a. w.
w.

N. W.

N.
N.W.
S. W.
3. W.
S. E.
N.W.

Cloudy
Little fnow
Flying clouds

Cloudv
Clouded -
Cloudy
Flying clouds
Rain - - -
Clouded -
Rain - - -
Clouded - -
Milling rain -
Rain -
Rain - - -

ds

Flying clo
Clouded -
Flying clouds
Flying: clouds

Hazy -

Rain -
Sleet -

64

26

2f
36
60
64

37
47
40

54
42

40

35
45
60

by
67

57
45

iSi

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

M A R C H,

76

I
2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9
10

1 1
12
5 3
14

'5

16

J7
18

19

20
21

22
23

2f

25
26
27
28
zg
^o
31

28
32

3s
42

33
3i
33
33
36
5°
43
43
35
29

35
43
45
61

47
46
60
53
45
47
54
63
62
68
61
48

Weather.

N. W.
N. E.

W.

W."

s. w.

N.W.
N. E.
N.W.
N.W.
S. W.

W.
S. W.
N. E.

N.
N.W.
S. W.
N. E.
S. E.
N. E.
N. E.
S. W.

s.

N.

N.

N. E.

S.

s. w.
s. w.

s.
s. w.

E.

Flying clouds
Clouded - -

Snow

Clouded
Clouded
Snow -
Clouded

Clouded
Clouded
Clouded
Clouded

Clouded

Clouded
Clouded
Clouded
Clouded
Clouded

Hazy
Hazy
Hazy
Hazy

Clouded

APPENDIX, N°5.

89

A P R I L,

I»

1 9

20
21
22

23
24
25
26

27
28
29

3-

58

5 5
61

63
5°
35

49

57
60

47
47
46

5*
57
69

74
57
51
62
68
74
56
66

73
7l
64

69
7°

56

N. E.

S. E.

S.

S.

N.

N. W.

S. E.

S.

E.

N. E.

S. E.

N. E.

S. E.

S.

s. w.
s.w.

N.W.
N. E.

s. w.

s. w.
s. w.

S. E.

s. w.

N.
S.W.

N. E.
S.

s.

Weather.

Hazy - -
Cloudy -
Cloudy, thunder
Rain '- - -

Cloudy - .
Clouded
Rain - -
Rain - -
Rain - -
Clouded -
Clouded -
Cloudy
Flying clouds
High wind

Flying clouds
Flying clouds
IVMfling rain, thunder
Flying clouds
Clouded -
Flying clouds

Rain - -
Little rain

Little rain

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

M A r, i 7 6

I
2

3
4

5
6

7
8

9
io
1 1

12

*3
*4

>5
16

*7

18

*9

20
21

22
23
24
25

26

27
28
29

3°
55
58

65
60

57
52
53
55
5+

6 3

68

7°
60
61

71
75
«3
67
60

80

N.W.
N. E.

S.
N.W.
N. E.
N. E.
E.
E.
S. E.
S. E.

S.
S. E.
N. E.
N.W.
S. E.
S.

s. w.

N.W.
N.W.

s. w

N. E.

N.W.

Weather.

Flying clouds

Rain - - -
Clouded, thunder

Flying clouds
Clouded - -
Rain - - -
High wind, rain
Rain

Rain - - -
Clouded - -
Showery
Showery
Clouded -
Flyjng clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy, thunder
Flying clouds

Little rain
Clouded -

Flying clouds

APPENDIX, N« 5.

191

JUNE, 176 1.

Q

I I

a: s

8

h
60

J

2

—

64

3

—

75

4
5
6

—

75
64

64

7

—

7°

8

—

68

9

—

68

IO

—

73

! I

—

75

12

—

77

J3
H

z

I9

M

—

8<

16

—

8^

17

—

88

18

—

86

19

—

86

20

—

60

21

—

60 i

22

7! 1

2>

76

24

—

Be |

25

—

8*i

26

—

8q !

27

—

89 .

28

—

gi ,

29

—

89

3°

r,

N.W.

N. E.

E.

S.
N.W.
N. E.
S. E.

E.

E.
N. E.

E.
S.E.

S.

s. w.
s. w.

N. E.
N. E.
S. W.
S.W.

N. E.
N. E.
N. E.

N.
S.

s. w.
s. w.
s. w.

s.
s. w.

S.W.

Weather.

Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Milling rain -
Flying clouds

Flying clouds
Clouded -
Little rain

Clouded -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Clouded, thunder
Rain - - - -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds

Flying clouds
Flying clouds

Flying clouds, thunde

192

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA',

J V L r, 176

87
90

91

92

93
95
87
92
89

83
62

7°
79
80
84
90
89
94
91
91
93

72
82

So

72

74
86
90
86
79

S. W.

s.

s.
s.w.

s.

s.
s.w.
s. w.
s.w.
s.w.

N. E.

E.
S. E.

E.
S. W.

S.
S. E.
S. w.
s. w.
s. w.
s. w.

N. E.
S.W.

Weather.

Cloudy, thunder - -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds - -
Flying clouds
Clouded - - - -
Clouded, thunder
Flying clouds
Flying clouds, thunder
Showery - -
Cloudy, thunder - -
Small rain - -

Flying clouds

Flying clouds

N

E.

N

E.

S.

W.

S.

W.

S.

w.

N

E.

N

. E.

S.

W.

Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy, thunder -
Clouded - - -
Clear, thunder
Clouded

- - thunder
Cloudy - - -
Cloudy - -
Clouded - - -
Flying clouds

Flying clouds

APPENDIX, N° 5.

>93

AUGUST, 176 1.

1

£

0 5

h

■d

Weather,

l\

I

8

88

s. w.

Cloudy, thunder

91

2

—

3^

s. w.

Clouded, thunder

8q

g

—

8?

E.

Flying clouds -

85

4

—

85

w.

Flying clouds - -

91

5

—

93

6

7

8

9

10

1 1

12

97

H

—

8<

s. w.

Flying clouds -

93

*5

—

86

s. w.

Flying clouds - -

93

16

—

QO

s. w.

Flying clouds - -

94

J7

—

bq

s. w.

Plying clouds - -

94

18

—

88

s. \v.

Cloudy - -

94

19

—

89

s. w.

Flying clouds, thunder -

OS

20

—

74

N. E.

Clouded -----

74

21

—

75

N. E.

Rain ______

76

22

—

66

N. E.

Clouded - - - _ _

23

—

64

N.W.

Rain ------

7°

24

—

6^

N.

Cbuded - - - - -

71

—

66

N.

Clouded -----

72

26

—

6,-

N.

Cloudy -----

7+

27

—

69

N.W.

73

28

—

71

N. W.

_______

81

29

—

73

W.

-------

S3

30

—

72

s. w.

Flying clouds -

86

31

~

75

N.W.

Flying clouds - -

83

194

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA,

SEPTEMBER, 1761.

9

JO

1 1

12

13

14

JS

16

17
.8

19
20
21

22
23

2f

25
26

27

28
29

3°

7°
69
66
61

66

71
67
64
71
73
62

63
64
69

65

62

65
66

72

74
76

72

74

Weather.

N. W.

N. E.

N.W.

N.W.

W.

s. w.

N.
N.W.

s. w.
s. w.

N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
S. W.
N. E.
N. E.
S. W.
N.W.

s. w.

S. E.
N. E.

N. E.
S. E.
S.E.

S.

s.
s,

S. E.
S. E.

Cloudy
Rain -
Clouded
Clouded

Cloudy

Flying clouds
Flying clouds,
Cloudy

Clouded.
Clouded
Cloudy

Clouded - -
Ram - - -
Ram - - -
Rain - - -
Cloudy
Cloudy
Clouded -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy - -

APPENDIX,

'9:

OCT OB E R,

761.

7°
67
67
63
65
67
7°
73
63
53
53
51
+6
46
47
47
53
55
56
58

0 6
67

47
45
45
45
5°
45
4^

N. E.

N.

N.

N.

N.
S. E.

S.

s.

N. E.

N. E.
N. E.
N. E.
N. W.

N.
N. W.

N.
W.

s. w.

s. w.

S.E.
E.

S.E.
N. W.
S. W.

w.

N.W.
N. W.
N. W.
v. E.
S. W.

s. w.

Weather.

Small rain
Small rain
Cloudy

Cloudy -

Cloudy
Rain -
Rain -
Clouded
Rain -
Cloudy

Fh

ids

Flying clouds

Cloudy - -
Cloudy - -
Rain - - -
Rain - -
Flying clouds
Clouded -
Clouded -
Clouded -
Flying clouds
Cloudy - -
Clou / - -
Flyi

3 S

71

7°
7%
71
! 75
76

! 81
83
58
60

52
56
56

57
57
60
68
7°

58
I a.6

1 :>

>uds

58
! 58
58
57
51
59
59
65

i96 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERTCA.

NOVEMBER, 176

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9
10
1 1

12

*3

1 4

15

16

*7

18

19
20
21
22

-3
24

2 5
26
27

28
29

35
35
40

45
4*

36
35
35
34
5°
35
29

47
49
43

N. E.
N.W.
N.W.
S. E.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

s. w.

s. w.

N.W.
N.

s. w.

N. E.

S.
N. W.

N.W.
S.

s. w.

N. E.

Weather.

Rain

Flying clouds

Flying clouds

Rain

Flying clouds

Ciouded - -

Clouded
Clouded

Flying clouds

Rain

Small rain

Foggy
Rain -
Cloudy
Rain -
Clouded

Cloudv

A P P E N D I X, N° 5.

u)7

DECEMBER,

I

2

3
4

5
6

7
8

9

10
1 1

12

J3
H

*5

16

J7

18

J9
20
21
22

23
24
2 5
26

27
2 -
29

3°
^1

N.W.

N.W.

N.

E.

S.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

W.
N. W.
N.W.

s. w.

N.
N. E.
N. E.
N.W.

s. w.

N. W.

N. E.
8. W.
N. W.

s. w.

N. W.
N. W.
S. W.
N. W.

Weather.

Clouded - - -
Cloudy, -
Rain - - - -
Rain, high wind -

Eittle fnow - -
Rain and fnow -

Clouded -

Rain - -

Rain - -

Clouded -

Clouded -

Little fnow - - -

Clouded - - - -

Clouded - - - - - - ,

Cloudy - - - - - 49

c •" " " " " 3C

bnow, ram - - - -41

Flying clouds - - -

------ 19

■19

- " - " " "37
Flying clouds - - - 42

4^r
48

98 TRAVELS THROUGH NO.RTH AMERICA.

J AN VARY, 1762.

I
2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9
10
1 1
12

13
"4
l5
16

l7
18

»9

20

21
22
23
« +
25
26
27
23
27

3°

3°
15
x3

3°
39
39
45
5*
5°
3°
3°
25
34
35
4°

5°
40
40
55
33
26

3°
36
20

19

N.
N. W.
N. E.

N.
N. E.
N. E.
N. E.

S.
S.W.

N.

N.

N.
S.W.

N.
S. W.

N. E.

N. E.
N. E.
S. W.

N. W.

N.W.

N.E.

W.

N.W.
N.W,

Weather.

Cloudy - ■
Thick fog
Clouded -
Thick fog
Thick fog
Thick fog
Clouded - -
Snow

Clouded - -

Mi fling rain -
Mining rain ■
Milling rain -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain -

APPENDIX, N«

99

FEBRUJRT.

762.

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

10
11

12

13

'5
16

17
18

19

20
21
22

23
24
25
26
27
28

28

33
46

45
44
40

39
32
35
32
32
31
31
31
32
42
42
36
45
34
26

36
35

23
24
22
3°

N.W.

s. w.
w.

s.
w.

N. E.

N.
N.W.
N. E.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
N. E.
N.W.
N. E.
S. W.
N.W.

W.

w.

N.W.
N.W.

s. w.

N.W.
X. W.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

Weather.

Clouded

Cloudy - -

Flying clouds

Flying clouds, thunder

Cloudy, thunder
Cloudy _ - - -
Cloudy -
Snow, rain -

Clouded - - - -

Cloudy

Flying clouds
Small rain

Hazy
Hazy

Hazy

Clouded

Flying clouds

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

MAR C H,

I
2

3
4

5
6

7
8

9

JO

1 1

1 2

1 3
'4
J5
1 6

*7

18

i9

2 j
21

22

23
2+

25
20
27
28

2v
30

3'

28

34
26

36

32
35
39
37
33
33
37
41
35
32
29

34
39
50
34
43
47
42

35
44
4'
38
44
53
5«
44
41

N. W.
N.W.
N.W.

W.
N. E.
N. E.

E.
N. E.
N.W.
N.W.

W.
S. E.

N.W.
N.W.

N.
S. W.
S.W.
N. E.
S. E.
S.-
N.W.
N. E.
S.E.
N. E.
N. E.
S.

vS.

s. w.

N. £.
N. E.

Weather.

Hazy, rain
Clouded - -

Flying clouds

Flying clouds
Rain -
Rain - - -

Rain - - ■
Cloudy
Little ihow. ■

Cloudy
Small rain
Flying clouds
Rain

Small rain

Cloudy - •
Cloudy - ■

Hazy

Clouded -
Flying clouds
Cloudy
Rain -

APPENDIX, N'5.

APRIL,

9
10
1 1

12

J3
H
]5
16

J7
18

J9

20
2 1
22

23
24

25
26
27
28
29
3°

44
43
52
4+
46
61

45

46

45
49

52

61
63

45
45
5°
5°
5°
56
42
42
^o
56
56

63

68

63

60

56

7i

S. E.
N. E.

S.
N. E.
S. E.

S.
S. E.
S. E.
N.W.
N.W.

s. w.

s. w.

s. w.

N. E.
N. E.

s. w.

N.W.

s. w.

N.
N. E.
N.W.
N.W.
S.E.
S. E.
S.

s. w.

N.
N. E.
S. W.

s. w.

Flying clouds
Rain - - -
Cloudy-

Clouded

Clouded
Cloudy

Hazy

Hazy

Hazy

Rain -

Cloudy

Clouded

Clouc

Cloudy - -
Hazy - -
Hazy, thunder

5°
46

63
5°
53

47
57
51
58
7°
73
73
43
5°
64
59

65

60

52

51

55
60
60

74
72
67
64

73
81

202 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

M a r,

762.

72 I S. W.
58 N. E.

53
53
56
57
56
59
64
63
56
59
69
56
56
66

7°

74

75
76

78

75
77

7<>

So

78

80

65
65
69

71

N. E.
N.E.
S. W.
S. W.

N.

E.

S.
N.E.

S. W.
N. E.

E.
S.. W.

s. w.
s. w.
s. w.
s. w.
s.

E.

s. w.
s. w.
s. w.
w.
s. w.

N.W.

N.
N.E.
S. E.

Weather.

Showers
Showers
Rain -
Cloudy

Cloudy, thundei
Flying clouds

Cloudy

Flying clouds
Cloudy - -
Clouded -
Cloudy
Cloudy
Thunder -

Flying clouds
Cloudy - -

Flying clouds, thunder
Rain -----
Cloudy - - - -
Cloudy - - - -
Cloudy - - - -

APPENDIX, N° 5.

203

JUNE, 1762.

l

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

10
1 1
12

13

*5

16

'7
18

19

20
21

22

23
24

25
26

27

2b
29

3°

75
75
77
72

78
70

79
7°
81

7$
83

73

74
68

7°
82

87
33
73
79
82
84

75
82

S. W.

s. w.

S. E.

s. w.
s. w.

N.

S. E.

S.

s.

N.W.

N.
N. E.
N.W.
N. E.

W.

W.

w.

N.W.

E.
S. E.
S.E.

S.
N. E.
S.E.

N.

Weai

Clouded -
Cloudy
Cloudy-
Flying clouds

Cloudy, thunder - -

Flying clouds
Cloudy - - - -
Flying clouds, thunder
Cloudy - - - -
Cloudy, thunder - -
Cloudy, thunder
Rain -----
Flying clouds
Flying clouds - -

a ihower

Cloudy - -
Cloudy -
Fiying clouds

Flying clouds, thunder
Clouded - -

204

TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

J u l r, 1762.

1

2

3
4

5

6

7
8

9

10
1 1

12

*3
14

l5

16

'7
18

'9

20

21
22

23
24

25

26

27
28
29

3°
3l

. 1

•d 1

h

£

73

E.

64

N. E.

66

W.

84

s. w.

84

s.w.

88

s.w.

84

w.

84

s.w.

76

N. E.

73

N. E.

79

S. E.

79

S. W.

80

S. w.

80

S. E.

79

N.W.

79

N. E.

«3

S. E.

82

S. W.

«1

s. w.

8l

s.w.

81

s.w.

76

N. E.

89

S. E.

H<

S.W.

80

N. i

80

N. E.

79

E.

81

S. E.

81

S.

84

E.

64

N. E.

Weather.

Rain - - - - -
Rain - - - _ _

Hazy - -

Hazy, thunder - -

Hazy, thunder - -

Cloudy, thunder - -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds

Clouded, a fhower -
Clouded - - - -
Cloudy - - - -
Flying clouds
Cloudy -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds, thunder
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy, thunder
Cloudy -
Flying clouds - -
Fly:ng clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy - - - -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Cloudy - - -
Rain - - - - -

APPENDIX, N* 5.

205

AUGUST, 1762.

I

2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9
10
1 1
12
13
H
»5
16

J7
18

*9

20
2 1
22
23
24
25
26

27
28

59
70

67
67
66

67
74
74
72
69
71
79
73
79
78

78
77
79

80

77
67
78
73
7«
69

73
74
76
76
77
73

N. E.
N.W.
N. E.
N. E.

N.

W.

s. w.
s. w.
s. w.

N.W.

s. w.

N.
N. E.

s. w.

s.
s. w.
s. w.
s. w.
s. w.
s. w.

N.W.

s. w.
s. w.
s. w.

N.W.
N. E.

s. w.
s. w.

s. w.
s. w.

N.W.

Weather.

Rain - -

Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Flying clouds

Flying clouds -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds

Cloudy - - - -
Cloudy -
Cloudy -
Cloudy _ _

Flying clouds
Clouded, thunder
Flying clouds, fhower
Cloudy, thunder - -
Cloudy, thunder - -
Cloudy, thunder - -
Cloudy - - _

Flying clouds
Cloudy - - - -
Flying clouds, thunder
CI ndy, thunder - -
Cloudy, thunder - -
Cloudy - - - -
Cloudy - - - -
Flying clouds
Flying clouds -
Flying clouds

206 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

SEPTEMBER, 1762.

I
2

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

10
1 1
12
'3
14
'5
16

*7

18

*9

20
21
22

23
24

25
26

27
28

29

5°

71
77
64
65
^3
71
6i
62
64
04
72

65
67

72
6;
67
59
60
64
69
7o

7°
55
51
51
55
56
64
63
56

N,

N.
N. E.
N. E.

S.

s. w.

N. E.
N.W.
N. E.
S. W.
N. E.
N.W.
N. E.
S. W.

N.
N.W.
N. E.

E.

S.
N. E.

W.

s. w.

N.W.
N. W.

N.
N. E.

E.

S-

S.
N.W.

"Weather.

Cloudy - - ■
Cloudy - - .
Cloudy - - ,
Flying clouds
Flying clouds
Rain - - - ■
Cloudy

Cloudy

Cloudy - - ■

- - thunder
Flying clouds
Flying clouds

Cloudy - - -
Cloudy - - .
Cloudy - - -
Cloudy, thunder
Small rain

Cloudy - -
Cloudy - - -
Cloudy - - -
Rain - - -
Flying clouds

|l

78
75
68
69

81
68

68
72
76
80
74
77
82

77
74
64
80

77
8i

57
59
62
64

72
73
7°
67
67

APPENDIX, Nc 5.

207

OCTOBER, 1762.

3
4
5
6

7
8

9

10
1 1
12
J3
H

*5

16

'7
18

19
20
21
22

24

25
26
27
28
29
3P
3*

60

5°
56

65
60

53
58
61

59
63
59
47
4-9

51
60

52
52
51

45
52

43
40

39
49
44
44
36

33
32
44
46

N.
N. E.
S. W.

s. w.
w.

N.W.
S. E.

a.

N. E.
S. W.
N. E.
S. W.

N.
N..E.
S. W.

N.W.

s. w.

N.W.
N.W.

w.

N.W.

w.

w.

s. w.

w.

s.

N.W.
N.W.

N.W.

s. w.

N. E.

Weather.

Cloudy - -

Rain - - - - -

Flying clouJs - -

Flying clouds - -

Clouded - - - -
Rain -

Clouded - - - -

Cloudy - - - -

Flying clouds - -
Rain - - - - -

Rain

Clouded - - - - -
Cloudy, thunder and hail
Cloudy - - - - -
Clouded - - - - -
Rain, thunder -
Cloudy - - - - -

thunder
Rain ------

Flying clouds - - -
Little rain _ - _ -
Clouded - - - - -

Little fhow - - - -

Cloudy

2o3 TRAVELS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA.

■NOVEMBER, 1762.

w.

Weather.

Cloudy - .
Flying clouds

Flying clouds
Rain - -
Rain -
Clouded - -
Cloudy
Cloudy
Clouded - -
Cloudy - .
Ciouded - -
Cloudy - -

Flying clouds

Foggy

Foggy - -

Foggy - -

Foggy - -

Foggy - -

Clouded - -

Rain - - -

iMifling rain -
Flying clouds

APPENDIX, N° 5.

209

DECEMBER, 1762.

Weathef

2
3

4
5
6

7

8

9

10
1 1
12

13

H

J5

16

r7

18

*9
20
21
22
23
24
25
26

27
28
29
3°
31

31

33
43
44
43
36
37
33
32
34
35
5Z
44
40

3°
24

3°
51
42
40
40

5°
4'

40

41

3r
26
28
3°
44
44

N.W.

N.
S. W.

s. w.
s. w.

N. W.
S. W.

N.W,

N.W.

W.

s. w.

s.
s. w.

N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

s. w.

N. E.
N.
W.

s. w.

N. E.
N. E.
N. E.
N. W.
N. W.
N.W.
N. E,
N. E.
S. W.

Clouded -
Hazy
Hazy
Clouded -

Small rain

Clouded -

Cloudy

Clouded - -
Flying clouds
Clouded - .
Clouded - -

Cloudy -

Clouded -
Rain -
Milling rain

Clouded -

Cloudy -
Rain -

Rain - -

Rain - -

Foggy
Milling
Foggy

44
45
46

56

45
44
42
42
47
52
56
62

55
41
36
41
49
44
43
42

47
59
4i
41

J3

34
41
46

5°
48

FINIS.

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