IN THE CUSTODY OF TME
BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY.
SHELF N°
li-i.
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TRAVELS
TO DISCOVER THE
SOURCE OF THE NILE,
IN THE YEARS
1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772, and 1773.
IN SIX VOLUMES.
BY JAMES BRUCE, OF KINNAIRD, ESQ^F. R. S.
V O L. V.
Nilus in extremum fugit perterrihts orhem^ Occuluitque caputs quod adbiic latet.
Ovid. Metam.
DUBLIN:
PRINTED BY GRAISBERRY AND CAMPBELL,
OR P, WOGAN, L. WHITE, P. BYRNE, W. PORTER, W. SLEATER, J. JONES, J. MOORE, B. DORNIN, C. LEWIS, W.JONES, C. DRAPER, J. MILLIKEN, AND U. WHITE,
MDCCXCI,
ADAMS 2.^/,/
I**
CONTENTS
OF THE
FIFTH VOLUME.
BOOK VIII.
THE AUTHOR RETURNS BY SENNAAR THROUGH NUBIA AND
THE GREAT DESERT ARRIVES AT ALEXANDRIA,
AND AFTER AT MARSEILLES.
CHAP. I.
yourneyfrom Gondar to Tcherkin, Page i
CHAP. II.
Reception at Tcherkin by Ozoro Efther^ ^c. — Hunting of the Elephant^ RFmoceros^ and Bitffalo. — . -^- 26
CHAR
CONTENTS.
CHAP. III.
From Tcherkin to Hor^Cacamoot, in Ras el Feel — Account of it — TranfaBions there. 49
CHAP. IV.
From Hor-Cacamoot to Teawa, Capital of Athara, 71
CHAP. V.
Tranfa6lion at Teawa — Attempts of the Shekh to detain the Author there — Adminifter Medi- cines to him and his Wives — Various Converfa- tionswith him^ and hiftances of his Treachery* 96
CHAP. VI.
TranfaBions at Teawa continued — A Moullah (ind Sherriffe arrive from Bey la — News from Ras el Feel and Sennaar — An Eclipfe of the Moon — Leave Teawa* 129
CHAP.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. VII.
Jrrhal at Beyla — Friendly reception there^ and after ^ among /i the Nuba — Arrival at Sennaar. 156
CHAP. VIIL
Converfation with the King-^With Shekb Ade- Ian — Interview with, the King^s Ladies, &c. &c. — — 180
CHAP. IX.
Converfations with Achmet — Hijlory and Go- vernment of Sennaar — Heat — Difeafe — Trade of that Country — The Author s dif- trejfedfituation — Leaves Sennaar. 209
CHAP.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. X.
journey from Sennaar to Chendi, 259
CHAP. XI.
Reception at Chendi by Sittina'-^Converfations with her — Enter the Defcrts — Pillars ofmov* ing Sand — Simoom^^Latitiide of Chiggre* 29 r
CHAP. XII.
Dijirefs in the Defert — Meet with Arabs-^ Camels die — Baggage abandoned — Come to Syne. — — 329
CHAP.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. XIII.
Kind reception at AJfouan — Arrived at Cairo '—TranfaElions with the Bey there^^Land at Marfeilles, — _ ^74
REGISTER
Of the Barometer and Thermometer in Abyffl" nia, 1770. ~ — 420
TRAVELS
♦ *
TRAVELS
TO DISCOVER
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE.
BOOK vin.
THE AUTHOR RETURNS BY SENNAAR THROUGH NUBIA AND
THE GREAT DESERT ARRIVES AT ALEXANDRIA,
AND AFTER AT MARSEILLES.
CHAP. L
Journey from Gondar to Tcherkin,
1 H E palace of Kofcam is fltuated upon the foutli fide of Debra Tzai \ the name fignifies the Mountain of the Sun. The palace confifts of a fquare tower of three fcories, with a flat para- pet roof, or terrace, and battlements about it. The court of guard, or head quarters of the Vol. V. B garrifon
2 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
garrifon of Kofcam, is kept here ; immediatel}" below this is the principal gate or entrance to- wards Gondar. It is furroimded by a high outer- wall, which may have above an Engliih mile of circumference. This outer precincl is all occu- pied by foldiers, labourers, and out-door fer- vants ; v/ithin this is another large court inclofed by walls likewife, in this the apartments are but of one ftorey, appropriated to the principal oHi- cers, priefts, and fervants. In this alfo is the church, built by the prefent Iteghe herfelf, and reckoned the richeft in Abyffinia. They have large crolTes of gold for their proceffions, and kettle-clrums of iilver. The altar is all covered v/ith gold plates, all the gift of their magnificent patronefs. The priefts, too, v/ere all rich, till Ras Michael feized, and applied part of their re- venue to his own ufe, and that of the flate, and thereby reduced them to a condition much more agreeable to the vows of poverty, which from pride they had made, than was their former one. The third, or inner court, is referved for the queen's own apartments, and fiich of the noble women as are her attendants, are unmarried, and make up her court. Behind the palace, higher up the hill, are houfes of people of quality, chiefly her own gelations. Above thefe the mountain rifes very' regularly, in form, of a cone, covered Vi'ith herbage to the very top ; on the eaft fide is the road from Walkayt ; on the wefi: from Kuara,
and Ras el Feel 5 that is all the low country, or
north
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 3
north of AbyfTmia, bordering upon the Shangalla, through which lies the road to Sennaar.
It was the 26th of December 1771, at one o'clock in the afternoon, that I left Gondar. I had purpofed to fet out early in the morning, but was detained by the importunity of my friends. The king had delayed my fetting out^ by feveral orders fent me in the evening each day j and I plainly faw there was fome meaning in this, and that he was wifliing to throw difficulties in the way, till fome accident, or fudden emergency (never wanting in that country) Ihould m^ake it abfolutely impoffible for me to leave Abyffinia* When therefore the lad meifao-e came to Kofcam
o
on the 27th, at night, I returned my refpeclful duty to his majefly, put him in mind of his promife, and, fomewhat peevifhly I believe, in- treated him to leave me to my fortune ; that my fervants were already gone, and I was refoived to fet out next morning.
In the morning early, I was furprifed at the arrival of a young nobleman, lately made one of his bed-chamber, v/ith fifty light horfe. As I was fatisfied that leaving Abyffinia, without pa- rade, as privately as poffible, was the only way to pafs through Sennaar, and had therefore in- filled upon none of m.y friends accompanying me, I begged to decHne this efcort ; affigning for my reafon, that, as the country between this and Ras el Feel belonged firft to the Iteghe, and then to Ayto Confu, none of the inhabitants could pofTibly injure me in paffing. It tgok a long time
B z to
4 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
to fettle this, and it was now, as I have faid, one o'clock before we fet out by the weft fide of Debra Tzai, having the mountain on our right hand. From the top of that afcent, we faw the plain and flat country below, black, and in its appearance, one thick wood, which fome authors have called lately, the Shumeta*, or Nubian foreft. But of the meaning of Shumeta I profefs myfelf entirely ignorant ; no fuch word occurring, as far as I know, in any language fpoken in thefe countries.
All the difafters which I had been threatened with in the courfe of that journey, which I had thus begun, now prefented themfelves to my mind, and made, for a moment, a ftrong im- preiTion upon my fpirits. But it was too late to •draw back, the dye was caft, for life or for death ; •home was before me, however diftant ; and if, through the protection of providence, Ifiiouldbe fortunate enough to arrive there, I promifed my- felf both eafe and the applaufe of my country, and of all unprejudiced men of fenfe and learning in Europe, for having, by my own private efforts alone, compleated a difcovery, w^hich had, from early ages, defied the addrefs, induftry, and courage of all the world.
Having, by thefe refieclions, rather hardened, than cotnforted my heart, I now advanced down the fteep fide of the mountain, our courfe nearly N. N. W. through very ftrong and rugged ground, torn up by the torrents that fall on every fide
from
* See a chart of the Arabian Gulf publifhed at London in 1781 by L. S. Dda Rocliette.
TI'IE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 5
Trom above. This is called the Defcent of Moura ; and though both we and our beads were in great health and fpirits, we could not, with our ut- nioil endeavours, advance much more than one mile an hour. Two Greeks, one of whom only was my fervant ; and a third, nearly blind, fly- ing from poverty and want ; an old janiiTary, who had come to Abyllinia with the Abuna, and a Gopht who left us at Sennaar ; thefe, and fome common men who took charge of the beads, and v/ere to go no further than Tcherkin, were my only companions in this long and weary journey. At a quarter paft four we came to the river Toom Aredo, which ariiing in the country of the Kemmont, (a people inhabiting the high grounds above to the S, W.) fails into the river Mahaanah. The Kemmont were a feci once the fame as the Falallia, but were baptized in the reign of Faci- iidas, and, ever iince,- have continued feparate from their ancient brethren. No great pains feem to have been taken with them iince their admif- fion to Chriftianity, for they retain moft of their ancient cuftoms. They eat the meat of cattle killed by Chriftians, but not of thofe that are flaughter- ed, either by Mahometans or Falaflia. They hold, as a doclrine, that, being once baptized, and having once communicated, no fort of prayer, nor other attention to divine worihip, is further neceiTary. They wafh themfelves from head to foot after coming from the market, or any public place, where they may have touched any one of a. feci different from their ovrn, efteeming ail fuch
unclean.
6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
unclean. They abftain from all forts of work on Saturday, keeping clofe at home ; but they grind corn, and do many other fuch like works, upon Sunday.
Their women pierce their ears, and apply weights to make them hang down, and to enlarge the holes, into which they put ear-rings almoft as bio* as fhackles, in the fame manner as do the Bedowis in Syria and Palefiine. Their language 13 the fame as that of the Falaflia, with fome fmall difrerence of idiom. They have great abhorrence to liih, which they not only refrain from eating, but cannot bear the fight of ; and the reafon they give for this is, that Jonah the prophet (from w^hom they boail: they are defcended) was fwal- lowed by a whale, or fome other fuch great fifh. They are hewers of wood, and carriers of water, to Gondar, and are held in great deteftation by the Abyilinians.
We eroded the river to the miferable village of Door-Macary, which is on the eail fide of it ; and there we took up our quarters, after a fhort, but very fatiguing, day's journey. The people fhewed great ilgns of uneafinefs upon our lirfl appearance, and much reluctance to admit us under their roofs ; and difcovering that we were not any of thofe that had the honour of being defcended from the prophet Jonah, they hid aP their pots and drinking-veifels, left they Ihould be prophaned by our uiing them. From Door- Macary we difcovered a high mountainous ridge, with a very rugged top, ftretching from North
to
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 7
to South, and towering up in the middle of the foreft, about five miles diftance ; it is called Bad« Jena.
On the 28th, a little after mid-day, we pafled Toom Aredo ; and went, firfl Eaft, then turned North, into the great road. We foon after paifed a number of villages ; thofe on the high moun- tain Badjena on the Eaft, and thofe belonging to the church of Kofcam on the Weft. Continuing ftill North, inclining very Httle to the Weft, we came to a fteep and rugged defcent, at the foot of which runs the Mogetch, in a courfe ftraight North; this defcent is called the And. At a quarter paft two we paiTed the Mogetch, our di- rec1:ion N. W. It is here a large, fwift running ftream, perfectly clear, and we halted fome time to refreih ourfelves upon its banks ; remembering how very different it was from what we had once left it, difcoloured with blood, and choked up with dead bodies, after the defeat of the king's wing at the battle of Serbraxos.
At half paft three we refumed our journey. A fliarp and pyramidal mountain ftands alone in the middle of the plain, prefenting its high fharp top through the trees, and making here a very piclur- efque and uncommon appearance ; it is called Gutch, and feemed to be diftant from us about fix miles due North. A few minutes after this we paffed a fmall ftream called Agam-Ohha, or the Brook of JeiTamine ; from a beautiful fpecies of that fnrub, very frequent here, and on the
fides of the fmall ftreams in the province of Sire.
A few
« TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
A few minutes paft four we entered a thick wood, winding round a hill, in a fouth-eaft di- rection, to get into the plain below, where we were furrounded by a great multitude of men, armed with lances, fhields, flings, and large clubs or flicks, who rained a Ihower of ilones towards us, as I may fay ; for they were at fuch a diftance that all of them fell greatly fhort of us. Whether this was owing to fear, or not, we did not know; but fuppoiing that it was. w^e thought it our interefl to keep it up as much as poilible. I therefore ordered two fhots to be fired over their heads ; not with any intention to hurt them, but to let them hear, by the balls whiflling among the leaves of the trees, that our guns carried far- ther than any of their flings ; and that, diflant as they then were, they were not in fafety, if we had a difpofition to do them harm. They feemed to underiland our meaning, by gliding through among the bufhes, and appearing at the top of a hill farther off, where they continued hooping and crvinp;, and makinsc divers fis^ns, which we could not, neither did we endeavour to under- fland. Another fhot, aimed at the trees above them, file wed they were ftill within our reach, upon which they difperfed, or fat down am.ong the bulhes, for we faw them no more, till pitch- ing our tent upon the plain below two of their villages ; it feemed they were uneafy, for they had difpatched a man naked, and without ?irms, who, flanding upon ~ the rock, cried out in the language of Tigre, that he wanted to come to
us.
THE SOURCE OF THE KILE. 9
US. This I abfolutely refufed, that he might not fee the fmallnefs of our number, crying out to him to get farther off, or we would inftantly flioot him. There was no occaiion to repeat the admo- nition. From the rock where he Hood, he ilid down Hke an eel, and appeared again at a conii- derable diftance, ftill making a fign of wanting to fpeak with us.
While reftins: on the banks of the river Mo- getch, we had been overtaken by tv/o men, and two women, who were driving two loaded affes, and v/ere going to Tcherkin ; they had defired leave to keep company with us, for fear of dan- ger on the road. I had two Abyfiinian fervants, but they were not yet come up, attending one of the baggage mules that was lame, as they faid ; but I believe, rather bufied with fom.e engage- ments of their own in the villasfss. We were
o
obliged then to have recourfe to one of thefe ftr anger women, who underftood the language of Tigre, and undertook readily to carry our meffage to the ftranger, who was ftill very bufy making iigns from behind a tree, without com- ing one ftep nearer.
My meffage to them was, that if they fliewed the fmalleft appearance of further infolence, either by approaching the tent, or flinging ftones that nighty the next morning, when the horfe I ex- pected were come up, I would burn their town, and very man of them to the fword. A very
fubmiilive anfwer was fent back, with a heap of lies in excufe of what they called their miftake.
My
lo TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
My two fervants coming foon after ^both of whom, hereafter, were to be in the fervice of Ay to Confu, went boldly one to each village, to bring two goats, fome jars of bouza, and to prepare fifty loaves of bread for next morning. The goats were difpatched inftantly, fo was the bouza ; but when the morning came, the people had all fled from their houfes, without preparing any bread. Thefe villages were called Gimbaar. They were three in number ; each fituated upon the top of a pointed hill, in a direction from eaft to wxft, and made a very beautiful appearance from the plain below. They belonged to my great ene- mies, Guebra Mehedin, and Confu, late fons of Baflia Eufebius.
On the other hand, as my fervants told me that a meifenger of the king had palTed that morning without taking any notice of us, Ibegan to fufpecl that it was fome flratagem of his to frighten me from purfuing my journey ; which, after the letters I had received from Sennaar, and v/hich he himfelf had heard read, he never thought 1 would have undertaken. This I ftill believe might be the cafe ; for thefe peafants did not fhew any forwardnefs to do us harm ; how- ever, it turned out as unfortunately for them, as if they really purfued us for vengeance.
As foon as we found the villages deferted, and that there were no hopes of a fupply of bread, we ftruck our tent, and proceeded on our jour- ney ; the pointed mountain Gutch bore north from our tent, at the diftance of about two miles.
On
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. n
On the 29111, at ten in the forenoon, we left the inhofpitable villages of Gimbaar, not without entertaining fome apprehenlions of meeting the inhabitants again in the courfe of the day. But though we took every precaution againft being furprifed, that prudence could dictate, our fears of the encounter did not rife to any great heis'ht. I got, indeed, on horfeback, leaving my mule ; and putting on my coat of m.ail, leaving the fire- arms under the command of Hag-i Ifmael, the old Turk, I rode always about a quarter of a mile before the baggage, that they might not come fuddenly upon us, as they had done the night before.
In a few minutes Vvx paiTed three fmall clear ftreams in a very fertile country ; the foil was % black loamy earth ; the grafs already parched, or rather entirely burnt up by the fun. Though this country is finely watered, and muft be very fertile, yet it is thinly inhabited, and, as we were informed, very unwholfome. At three quarters pail ten vre came to the river Mahaanah, which fwallows up thefe three brooks, its courfe nearly N. W. it was (even at this dry feafon of the year) a confiderable ftream.
Here we refiied half an hour, and then purfued our journey ftraight north. We paffed a large and deep valley called Werk Meidan, or the coun- try of gold, though there is no gold in it. It is full of wood and bufhes. We had left it fix miles, at leaft, on our left hand, and the bap'orao-e near half a mile behind, when I met two men very
decently
IS TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
decently dreffed ; one mounted on a mule, the other on foot ; both of them armed with lances and ihields, and both feemed furprifed to fee a man on horfeback alone completely armed. The rider paffed by at a very quick pace, apparently not delirous of a.ny intercourfe with me. The man on foot at paffing faluted me with a Salam Alicum ; by which I knew him to be a Maho- . metan, and we were about to enter into conver- fation, when his neighbour called to him, w^ith . feeming impatience. He immediately left me, faying only thefe fhort fentences, " He there before is a Chriftian, and a liar ; don't be afraid, Ayto Confu will be at Tcherkin as foon as you." Upon this we parted, I paffed on fomething more than a mile further, and at ten minutes after twelve flopped for the baggage. The Ma- haanah is here about a quarter of a mile to the N. E. and the fiiarp-pointed mountain of Gutch S. E. and by eafl, diilance about three miles, it was fome time before our baggage came up, w^hen our companions who efcorted it exhibited fome fmall marks of confuiion.
The Turk v/as bluftering violently in Turkifh, and fetting all at defiance, wilhing to be attacked by a hundred that m.inute ; the others feemed to be much more moderate, and not to ao^ree with Hagi Ifmael, either in time or in number, but were very willing to be exempted from attacks altogether. I a&ed them what was the occaiion of all this warlike difcourfe from Ifmael, who fcarcely fpckc Arabic fo as to be underflood ? I
could
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 15
could learn nothing but threats againfl the Chriftians. At laft, the lervants told me, that the Abyffinians who palTed had informed them, that, at a certain pafs, called Dav-Dohha, which we Ihould arrive at next day, above a thoufand men, Chriftians, Pagans, and Mahometans, all armed, were waiting for us, refolved to cut us to pieces rather than let us pafs : that the Shan- galla v/ere expecled to burn Tcherkin, and Ay to Confu's houfe ; and that his Billetana Gueta, Am- monios, had come Vv^ith a multitude of mules to carry away all that was valuable in it. He added, moreover, that Abba Gimbaro, chief of Sancaho, was fent for by Ay to Confu, and entrufted with the defence of Tcherkin Amba, the hill UDon which Ayto Confu's houfe is iituated. He then called the Mahometan who fpoke to me, to wit- nefs the truth of all this, which he did with re- peated oaths ; and concluded, that nothing re- mained for us but to return to Gondar. They all, in anxious expectation, awaited my refolu- tion. One of the fervants faid, that, by going out of the way about half a day, we could avoid the pafs of Dav-Dohha altogether. I told them, this was neither a time nor place for deliberation ; that we ihould make the befl of our way to Waalia, where wc w^ere to ileeo that nisfht ; as tha.t was a tov/n where there was a market, and people came from every part, we fliould there hear news, after which I promifed to tell them my opinion. We accordino'lv fet out for Waalia, and at half
pail"
14 . TRxlVELS TO DISCOVER
•
pail four In the afternoon encamped in the mar- ket-place.
Waalia is a collecVion of villages, each placed upon the top of a hill, and inclofing, as in a circle, an exteniive fiat piece of ground about three miles over, on vi^hich a very well-frequented market is kept. The name is given it from a fpecies of fmall pigeons*, vi'ith yellow breafts ,and variegated backs, the fatteft and beft of all the pigeon kind. Waalia lies due N. W, from Gondar.
Having finiihed our dinner, or rather fupper, about feven, for v/e m.ade but one meal a-day, after taking care of our beafts, we entered into confaltation what Vv-as next to be done. I told them, the firft ftep Vv^e Vv-ere to take was to fend and call the Shum of one of the villages, and after him another, and if, knowing me to be the king-'s ftranger, feeing the fmallnefs of our number, and being informed that we were going to Tcherkin, to the houfe of Ayto Confu, their mafter, they did not tell us there were dangers on the road, we might be fure the intelligence we had received was void of foundation. " Sir, fays one of the Grangers that drove the alTes, it is a lie. No man but Ayto Confu, not even Ayto Confu himJelf, could raife 500 men in this country ; no not even 300, Pagans, Mahometans, and Chrifuans alto- gether. Where is he to get his Pagans? unlefs he m.eans his own Chrifiian fort, who indeed, are more Pagans than any thing elfe, and capable
of
* See the article Waalia iii the Appendix.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 15
of every mifchief ; but there is not a Mahometan on this road that does not know who you are, and that you was Yaiine's mafter, and gave him Ras el Feel. Stay here but a few days till I fend to Ras el Feel, and to Tcherkin, and if you do not take the houfes and wives, and all that theie five hundred men have in the world from them, with the help you may find at Waalia, fpit upon me for a liar, or my name is not Abdullah.'* " Abdullah, faid I, you are a fenfible fellow, though I did not know you was fo well acquaint- ed with m.e, nor do I wiili that you fpeak of me in that manner publicly. But what convinces me of the truth of what you fay is, that the man on foot had no more time but to fay to me, in Arabic, while paifing, that his companion on the mule was a liar, and that I fhould not be afraid, for there was no danger on the road, and that Ayto Confu would be at Tcherkin as foon as I ; from which, and his faying jufi: the x:ontrary to you, I 6.0 believe the v/hole is a ilratagem ofthe king.
Ail agreed in this. Hagi lihiael mentioned it as a proof of the v/ortlilefsnefs of Chriitians, that even their kings ¥/ere as great liars as common .:men ; and we had fcarcely done with .this conful- tation, and difpelled our fears, when v7ord was brought to the tent, that the chiefs of two of the principal villages were at the door, defiling to be admitted, and had with them feveral fervants loaded with provifions. They Vv^ere immediately introduced^ and they prefented us Vvith two goats,
feverai - \
i6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
feveral jars of bouza, and a quantity of bread, which I divided among my retinue, now become half Chriftians and half Mahometans, neither of whom eat meat killed by the other. *
After the firil civilities were over, I afked the governor of Waalia all the queftions that were needful about the Hate of the roads and the coun- try, and whether the Shangalla ever made an attempt upon Tcherkin ? They faid, all was peace; that the people came and went to. the market without being interrupted. They laughed at the quefuon about the Shangalla. Ay to Confu, they faid, fometimes went down and deftroyed many of that people, and brought others away as Haves ; but the Shangalla were not men to at- tack a pl?xe where there wa.s a number of horfe, nor to climb mountains to deftroy houfes well ilored with fire-arms. Have you, faid I, feen nobody pafs by from Ayto Confu lately ? About four or live days ago, anfwered he, a fervant was here, with orders to have victuals ready for you ; who-alfo told us, that he would come himfelf in three or four days after. I heard alfo, that his fervant Ammonios had gone round Nara to take poiTeihon of fom.e villages the king had given Ozoro Efther, and that he had with him a num- ber of horfe and foot, and feveral Ozoros, going to Tcherkin, but they had gone the upper road, confequently had not come this way. Is there no danger, faid I, in pafTmg Dav-Dohha ? Why, at Dav-Dohha, faid he, there is danger, it is a bad place, nobody paifes it on horfeback 5 but I
fee
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 17
fee your horfes are fhod with iron, which none in this country are ; however, to avoid all danger you had better lead your horfes and mules, and walk on foot, it is not far.
I could not help burfling out into a fit of laugh- ter at the fancied danger that attended us at Dav- Dohha ; and, as I faw this difconcerted our in- formant, and that he thought he had faid fome- thing wrong, I told him briefly what had paiTed at meeting with the two men upon the road. He laughed very heartily at this in his turn. " That man did not flop here, fays he, and who he is I know not ; but whoever he is, he is a liar, and a beaft of the field. All the people of Dav-Dohha are our relations, and Ayto Confu's fervants ; if there had been any body to attack you, there would have been found here people to defend you. What fignifies his ordering us to furniih you with viduals, if he was to fufFer your throats to be cut before you came to eat them ? I will anfwer for you between this and Tcherkin ; after that, all is wildernefs, and no man knows if he is to meet friend or foe."
I told him then what had happeend to us at Gimbaar, at which he feemed exceedingly fur- prifed. Thefe villages, fays he, do not belong to Ayto Confu, but to his coufins, the fons of Bailia Eufebius. They indeed died in rebellion, but our mafter has taken poffeilion of them for the fa- mily, left the king fhould give them away to a ftranger. Some bad news mufi have arrived from Gondar ; at any rate, if you are afraid, I will
Vol. V, C accompany
iS TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
accompany you to-morrow paft Dav-Dohha. Wc thanked him for the kind offer, but excufed our- felves from accepting it, as we fully reHed upon his intelligence ; and having made him fome tri- fling prefents, about the value of what he brought, though in his eyes much more coniiderable, we took our leave, mutually fatisfied with each other. From this I no longer doubted that the whole was a project of the king to terrify me, and make me return. What ftruck me, as moft improba- t)le of all, was the ftory of that lying wretch who faid that Ay to Confu had fent a number of mules to carry away his furniture, and trufted the defence of his place to Abba Gimbaro, chief of the Baafa. For hrft, I knew well it did not need many mules to carry away the furniture which Ayto Confu left at Tcherkin in time of war, and when he was not there ; next, had he known that any perfon whatever, Shangalla or Chrif- tians, had intended to attack Tcherkin, he was not a man to hght by proxy or lieutenants ; he would have been himfelf prefent to meet them, as to a feaft, though he had been carried thither in a lick-bed.
On the 30th, at half paft fix in the morning we fet out from Waalia ; and, though we were per- fectly cured of our appreheniions, the company all joined in deiiring me to go along with them, and not before them* They wifely added, that, in a country like that, where there was no fear of God, I could not know what it might be in the power of the devil to do* I therefore hung my
arms
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 19
arms upon my horfe, and taking a gun in my hand, wandered among the trees by the road- fide, in purfuit of the doves or pigeons. In a few hours I had lliot feveral fcores of them; efpecially on the banks of the Mai Lumi, or the river of Lemons. We came to it in about an hour from WaaUa, and coafted it for fome minutes, as it ran north-eaft parallel to our courfe.
A prodigious quantity of fruit loaded the branches of thefe trees even likely to break them ; and thefe were in all ftages of ripenefs. Multi- tudes of bloffoms covered the oppoiitepart of the tree, and fent forth the moft delicious odour pof- iible. We provided ourfelves amply with this fruit. The natives make no ufe of it, but we found it a great refrefhment to us, both mixed with our water, and as fauce to our meat, ot w^hich we had now no great variety lince our onions had failed us, and a fupply of them was no longer to be procured.
At fourteen minutes pail feven, continuing north-v/eft, we croiTed the river Mai Lumi, which here runs weft; and continuing ftill north-weft, at eight o'clock we came to the mouth of the for- midable pafs, Dav-Dohha, which we entered with good countenance enough, having firft refted five minutes to put ourfelves in order, and we found our appetites failing us through exceftive heat. The pafs of Dav-Dohha is a vqry narrow defile, full of ftrata of rocks, like fteps of ftairs, but fo high, that without leaping, or being pulled up, no horfe or mule can aicend. Moreover, the def-
C 2 cent
20 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
cent, though iliort, is very fteep, and almoft choked up by huge ftones, which the torrents, after walhing the earth from about them, had rolled down from the mountain above. Both fides of the defile are covered thick with wood and buflies, efpecially that deteftable thorn the kantufFa, fo juflly reprobated in Abyffinia.
Having extricated ourfelves fuccefsfully from this pafs, our fpirits were fo elated, that we be- o-an to think our journey now at an end, not re- fleding how many paiTes, full of real danger, were ftill before us. At three quarters paft eight we came to V^^erkleva, a village of Mahometans. Above this, too, is Armatchiko, a famous her- mitage, and around it huts inhabited by a num- ber of monks. Thefe, and their brethren of Mag- wena, are capital performers in all diforders of the ftate ; all prophets and diviners, keeping up the fpirit of riot, anarchy and tumult, by their fanatical inventions and pretended vifions.
Having refted a fewminutes at Tabaret Wunze, a wretched village, compofed of miferable huts, on the banks of a fmall brook, at a quarter after two we paiTed the Coy, a large river, which falls into the Mahaanah. From Mai Lumi to this place the country was but indifferent in appearance ; the foil, indeed, exceedingly good, but a wildnefs and look of defolation covered the whole of it. The grafs was growing high, the country exten- five, and almoft without habitation, whilft the few huts that were to be feen feemed more than ordinarily miferable, and were hid in receffes, or
in
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 21
in the edge of valleys overgrown with wood. The inhabitants feemed to have come there by ftealth, with a deiire to live concealed and un- known.
On the 31ft of December we left our ftation at the head of a difficult pafs called Coy Gulgulet, or the Defcent of Coy, at the foot of which runs the river Coy, one of the largeft we had yet feen, but I did not difcern any fifh in it. Here we refted a little to refrefh ourfelves and our beafcs, after the fatigues we had met with in defcending through this pafs.
At half after eight we came to the banks of the Germa, which winds along the valley, and falls into the Angrab. After having continued feme time by the fide of the Germa, and croiTed it o-o- ingN. W. we, at ten, pafled the (mall river Idola; and half an hour after came to Deber, a houfe of Ay to Confu, on the top of a mountain, by the fide of a fmall river of that name. The country here is partly in wood, and partly in plantations of dora. It is very well watered, and feems to produce abundant crops ; but it is not beautiful; the foil is red earth, and the bottoms of all the rivers foft and earthy, the water heavy, and ge- nerally ill-tafted, even in the large rivers, fuch as the Coy and the Germa. I imagine there is fome mineral in the red earth, with a proDortion of which the water is impregnated.
At Deber, I obferved the following bearings from the mountains ; Ras el Feel was weft, Tcher- kin N. N. W. Debra Haria, north. We found
nobody
22 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
nobody at Deber that could give us the leafl ac- count of Ayto Confu. We left it, therefore, on the morning of the ill of January 1772. At half paft ten o'clock we paiTed a finall village called Dembic, and about mid-day came to the large river Tchema, which falls into the larger river Dwane, below, to the weftward. About an hour after, we came to the Mogetch, a river not fo large as the Tchema, but which, like it, joins the Dwang. Here we have a view of the fteep moun- tain Magwena, where there is a monaftery of that name, polTeffedby a multitude of lazy, profligate, ignorant monks. Magwena, excepting one moun- tain, is a bare, even ridge of rocks, which feem- ingly bear nothing, but are black, as if calcined by the fun. In the rainy feafon it is faid every fpecies of verdure is here in the greateft luxuriancy ; all the plantations of corn about Deber are much in- fefted with a fmall, beautiful, green monkey, with a long tail, called Tota.
Between three and four in the afternoon we encamiped at Eggir Dembic ; and in the evening we paiTed along the iide of a fmali river running weft, which falls into the Mogetch.
I took advantage of the pleafanteft and lateft hour for ihooting the waalia, or the yellow- breafted pigeon, as alfo guinea-fowls, which are here in great abundance among the corn ; in plu- mage nothing different from ours, and very ex- cellent meat. The fun was juft fetting, and I v/as returning to my tent, not from wearinefs or fa-
tiety of fport, but from my attendant being in- capable
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 23
capable of carrying the load of game I had already killed, when I was met by a man with whom I was perfectly acquainted, and who by his addrefs likewife feemed no ftranger tome. I immediately recoUecled him to be a fervant of Ozoro Efther, but this he denied, and faid he was a fervant of Ayto Confu ; however, as Confu lived in the fame houfe with his mother at Kofcam, the mif- take feemed not to be of any m.oment. He faid he came to meet Ayto Confu, who was expected at Tcherkin that night, and was fent to fearch for us, as we feemed to have tarried on the road. He had brought two mules, in cafe any of ours had been tired, and propofed that the next morn- ing I fhould fet out with him alone for Tcherkin, where I fhould find Ayto Confu, and my baggage fhould foUov/ me. I told him that it w^as my fixed refolution, made at the beginning of my journey, and which Ifhould adhere to till the end, never to feparate myfelf on the road from my fervants and company, Vv^ho were ftrangers, and w^ithout any other protection than that of being with me.
The man continued to prefs me all that even- ing very much, fo that we were greatly furprifed at what he could mean, and I ftili more and more refolved net. to gratify him. Often I thought he wanted to communicate fomething to me, but he refrained, and I continued obftinate ; and the rather fo, as there was no certainty that Ayto Confu was yet arrived, I afked him if Billetana
Gueta
24 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Gueta Ammonios was not at Tcherkin ? He an- fwered, without the fmalleft alteration in his countenance, that he was not. No people on earth diiTemble like the Abyffinians ; this talent is born with them, and they improve it by continual practice. As we had therefore previoufly refolved, we paiTed the evening at Eggir Dembic, and the fervant, finding he could not prevail, left our tent, and we all went to bed. He did not feem angry, but at going out of the tent, faid, as half to himfelf, " I cannot blame you ; in fuch a jour- ney nothing is like firmnefs.''
On the 2d of January, in the morning, by feven o'clock, having dreffed my hair, and per- fumed it according to the cuftom of the country, and put on clean clothes, with no other arms but my knife, and a pair of piflols at my girdle, I came out of the tentto mount my mule for Tcher- kin. I now faw Confu's fervant, whofe name was Welleta Yafous, pulling the guinea-fowls and pigeons out of the pannier, where my fervant s had put them, and fcattering them upon the ground, and he was faying to thofe who inter- rupted him, " Throw away this carrion ; you fhall have a better breakfaft and dinner, too, to- day ; and turning to me more than ordinarily pleafed at feeing me dreffed, and that I continued to ufe the Abyffinian habit, he jumped upon his mule, and appeared in great fpirits. and we all fet out at a briiker pace than ufual, by the allif- tance of the two freih mules.
We paffed through the midft of feveral fmall
villages
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 25
villages. At half an hour pail eight we came to the mountain of Tcherkin, which we rounded on the weft, and then on the north, keeping the mountain always on our right. At twenty mi- nutes paft ten I pitched my tent in the market- place at Tcherkin, which feemed a beautiful lawn laid out for pleafure, fliaded with fine old trees, of an enormous height and fize, and watered by a fmall but very limpid brook, running over beds of pebbles as white as fnow.
CHAR
3b TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
CHAP. IL
Reception at Tcherkin by Ozoro EJiher^ l^c. — = Hunting of the Elephant^ Rhinoceros^ and Buffalo,
1. HE impatient Welleta Yafous would only- give me time to fee my quadrant and other in- firuments fafely flowed, but hurried me through a very narrov/ and crooked path up the fide of the mountain, at every turn of which was placed a p*reat rock or flone, the ilation for mufquets to enfilade the different llages of the road below, where it was flrait for any diftance. We at lafl reached the outer court, where we found the chamberlain Ammonios, whom Welleta Yafous had fpoken of as being fliil at Gondar ; but this did not furprife m.e, as he told me at the tent that x^yto Confu was arrived. I faw here a great many of my old acquaintance whom I had known at Ozoro Eflher's houfe at Gondar, and who all %velcomed me with the greatefl demonflrations of joy, as if I had come from a long journey.
I was
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 27
I was then taken to an inner apartment, where, to my great furprife, inftead of Ayto Confu, I faw his mother, Ozoro Efther, fitting on a couch, and at her feet the fecretary's daughter, the beau- tiful Tecla Mariam ; and foon after, the fecretary himfelf, and feveral others belonp-ins: to the court. After having made a profound obeifance, " Ozoro Eilher, faid I, I cannot fpeak for furprife. What is the meaning of your having left Gondar to come into this wildernefs ? As for Tecla Mariam, I am not furprifed at feeing her ; I know ihe at any time would rather die than leave you ; but that you have both come hither without Ayto Confu, and in fo lliort a time, is w^iat I cannot comprehend."—" There is nothing fo flrange in this, replied Ozoro Eilher ; the troops of Begem- der have taken away my hufband , Ras Michael, God knows where ; and, therefore, being now a fnigle woman, I am refolved to go to Jerufalem to pray for my hufoand, and to die there, and be buried in the Holy Sepulchre. You would not Hay v/ith us, fo %ve are going with you. Is there any thing fiirprifmg in all this ?"
" But tell me truly, fays Tecla Mariam, you that know every thing, while peeping and poring through thefe long glalTes, did not you learn by the ftars that we were to meet you here ?~~" Ma- dam, anfwered I, if there was one ftar in the fir- marnxnt that had announced to me fuch agreeable news, I fliould haverelapfed into the old idolatry of this country, and worfliipped that fiar for the reft of my life." Breakfail now came in ; the
converfation
28 TRAVELS TO DISCOVE R
converfation took a very lively turn, and from the fecretary I learned that the matter ftood thus : The king, reftoring the villages to the Iteghe, ac- cording to the ftipulation of his laft treaty with Powuilen, thought that he might fo far infringe upon it, from gratitude to Ras Michael, as to give part of the number to Ozoro Efther, the Iteghe'^:. daughter ; and /lyto Confu, going to Tcherkin to hunt, he took his mother along with him to put her in poiTeiiion ; for the Iteghe*s peo- ple were not lambs, nor did they pay much re- gard to the orders of the king, nor to that of the Iteghe their miftrefs, at all times, farther than fuited their ov^m convenience.
We now wanted only the prefence of Ayto Confu to make our happinefs complete ; he came about four, and with him Ayto Engedan, and a great company. There was nothing but rejoicing on all fides. Seven ladies, relations and compa- nions of Ozoro Efther, came with Ayto Confu ; and I confefs this to have, been one of the happieft moments of my life. I quite forgot the difaftrous journey I had before me, and all the dangers that awaited me. I began even to regret being fo far in my way to leave Abyflinia for ever. We learn- ed from Ayto Confu, that it had been reported at Gondar that we had been murdered by the peafants of Gimbaar, but the contrary was foon known. However, Engedan and he had fet the lelTer village on fire in their paiTage, and laid a contribution of eleven ounces of gold upon the
two larger.
Ayto
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 2^
Ayto Confu's houfe at Tcherkin is built on the edge of a precipice which takes its name from the mountain Amba Tcherkin. It is built all with cane very artificially, the outer wall being compofed of fafcines of cane, fo neatly joined to- gether as not to be penetrated by rain or wind. The entry is from the fouth lide of it, very crook- ed and difficult, half way up the rock. On the eaft, is a very plentiful fpring, which furnifhes the houfe with excellent water. Yet, after all, this houfe, though inacceffible, is not defeniible, and affords very little fafety to its mailer ; for the Shangalla, with flax, or any thing combuftible, tied to the point of their arrows, would eaiily fet it on fire if they once approached it ; and the Abyffinians with guns could as eaiily deflroy it, as, on fuch occafions, they vva'ap their balls in cotton wads. The infide of the flate-room.s were hung with long ftripes of carpeting, and the floors covered wdth the fame.
There is great plenty of game of every fort about Tcherkin ; elephants, rhinocerofes, and a great number of buffaloes, which differ nothing in form from the baffaloes of Europe or of Egypt, but very much in temper and difpofition. They are fierce, rafn, and fearlefs of danger ; and, contrary to the practice of any other creature not carnivorous, they attack the traveller and the hunter equally, and it requires addrefs to efcape from them. They feem to be, of all others, the creature the moil given to eafe and indulgence. They lie under the moil faady trees^ near large
pools
qo TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
pools of v/ater, of which thejr make conftant ufe, and fleep foundly all the day long. The fiefh of the female is very good when fat, but that of the male, hard, lean, and difagreeable. Their horns are ufed in various manners by the tm^ners, in which craft the Abyffinians are very expert. In the woods there are many civet cats, but they know not the ufe of them, nor how to extract the civet. The Mahometans only are polTeffed of this art. '
Thoiujh we were all happy to our wifh in thi» enchanted mountain, the active fpirit of Ayto Confu could not reft; he was come to hunt the elephant, and hunt him he would. All thofe that underftood any thing of this exercife had aiTem- bled from a great diftance to meet Ayto Confu at Tcherkin. He and Engedan, from the mo- ment they arrived, had been overlooking, from the precipice, their fervants training and manag- ing- their horfes in the market-place below. Great bunches of the fineft canes had been brought from Kuara for javelins ; and the whole houfe was employed in fitting heads to them in the m.oft ad- vantageous manner. For my part, tho' I ihould have been verv well contented to have rem.ained
4
where I v/as, yet the preparations for fport of io noble a kind roufed my fpirits, and made me de- firous to join in it. On the other hand, the ladies all declared, that they thought, by leaving them, we were devoting them to death or llavery, as they did not doubt, if the Shangalla miffed us, they would come forward to the mountain and
flay
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 31
flay them all. But a fuiEcIent garrifon was left under Azage Kyrillos, and Billetana Gueta Am- monios ; and we were well afTured that the Shan- galla, being informed we were out, and, armed, and knowing our numbers, would take care to keep clofe in their thickets far out of our way.
On the 6th, an hour before day, after a hearty breakfaft, we mounted on horfeback, to the num- ber of about thirty belonging to Ayto Confu. But there was another body, both of horfe and foot, which made hunting the elephant their par- ticular bulinefs. Thefe men dwell conftantly in the woods, and know very little the ufe of bread, living entirely upon the ilelh of the beafts they kill, chiefly that of the elephant or rhinoceros. They are exceedingly thin, light, and agile, both on horfeback and foot ; are very fwarthy, though few of them black ; none of them woolly-headed, and all of them have European features. They are called Agageer, a name of their profelTion, not of their nation, which comes from the word Agar, and lignifies to hough or ham-Piring with a iharp weapon. More properly it m.eans, indeed^ the cutting the tendon of the heel, and is a cha- racteriftic of the manner in which they kill the elephant, which is ihortly as follows :— Two men, abfolutely naked, without any rag or covering at all about them, get on horfeback ; this precaution is from fear of being laid hold of by the trees or bulhes, in making their efcape iProm a very watch- ful enemy. One of thefe riders fits upon the back of the horfe, fometimes with a faddle, and fome-
times
32 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
times without one, with only a fwitch or Ihort ftick in one hand, carefully managing the bridle with the other ; behind him fits his companion , who has no other arms but a broad-fword, fuch as is ufed by the Sclavonians, and which is brought from Triefte. His left hand is employed grafping the fword by the handle, and about fourteen inches of the blade is covered with whip-cord* This part he takes in his right hand, without any danger of being hurt by it'; and, though the edges of the lower part of the fword are as fharp as a razor, he carries it without a fcabbard.
As foon as the elephant is found feeding, the horfeman rides before him as near his face as pof- iible ; or, if he flies, croiTes him in all directions, crying out, *' I am fuch a man and fuch a man; this is my horfe, that has fuch a name ; I killed your father in fuch a place, and your grandfather in fuch another place, and I am now come to kill you ; you are but an afs incomparifonof them." This nonfenfe he verily believes the elephant un- derftands, who, chafed and angry at hearing the noife immediately before hi mi, feeks to feize him with his trunks or probofcis, and intent upon this, follows the horfe every where, turning and turning round with him, neglectful of making his efcape by running ftraight forward, in which confifts his only fafety. After having made him turn once or twice in purfuit of the horfe, the horfeman rides clofe up along-fide of him, and drops his companion jufl behind on the off fide ; and while he engages the elephant's attention upon
the
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 33
the horfe, the footman behind gives him a drawn ftroke jud above the heel, or what in man is called the tendon of Achilles. This is the critical mo- ment ; the horfeman immediately wheels round, and takes his companion up behind him. and rides off full fpeed after the reft of the herd, if tliey have ftarted m.ore than one ; and ibmedmes an expert Agageer Vvdll kill three out of one herd. If the fword is good, and the man not afraid, the tendon is commonly entirely feparated ; and if it is not cut through, it is generally fo far divided, that the animal, with the ftrefs he puts upon it, breaks the Femaining part afunder. In either cafe, he remains incapable of advancing a ftep, till the horfeman returning, or his companions com- ing up, pierce him through with javelins and lances ; he then falls to the ground, and expires w^ith the lofs of blood.
The Agageer neareft me prefently lamed his elephant, and left him ftanding. Ayto Engedan, Ayto Confu, Guebra Mariam, and feveral other?, fixed their fpears in the other, before the Agageer had cut his tendons. My Agageer, hov/ever, having wounded the firft elephant, failed in the purfdit of the fecond, and, being clofe upon him at entering the wood, he received a violent blow from a branch of a tree vdiicli the elephant had bent by its w^eight, and, after pailing, allowed it to replace itfelf, when it knocked down botnthe riders, and very much, hurt the horfe. This^ in- deed, is the great danger in elephant-hunting ; for fome of the trees, that are dry and fnort. Vol, Y. D ' break
34 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
break by the violent preffure of fo iramenfe 2 body moving fo rapidly, and fall upon the pur- fuers, or crofs the roads. But the greateft num- ber of thefe trees> being of a fucculent quality^ they bend without breaking, and return quickly to their former pofition, when they ftrike both horfe and man fo violently, that they often beat them to pieces, andTcatter them upon the plain. Dextrous, too, as the riders are, the elephant fometimes reaches them with his trunk, with which he daihes the horfe againft the ground, and then fets his feet upon him, till he tears him limb from limb with his probofcis ; a great many hunteps die this w^ay. Belides this, the foil, at this time of the year, is fplit into deep chafms, or cavities, by the heat of the fun, fo that nothing can be more dangerous than the riding.
The elephant once flain, they cut the whole flefh off his bones into thongs, like the reins of a bridle, and hang thefe, like feftoons, upon the branches of trees, till they become perfectly dry, without fait, and they then lay them by for their provilion in the feafon of the rains.
I need fay nothing of the figure of the elephant,
his form is known, and anecdotes of his life and
character are to be found everywhere. But his
defcription, at length, is given, with his ufual
accuracy and elegance, by that great mafter of
natural hiilory the Count de Buffon, my mod
venerable, learned, and amiable friend, the Pliny
of Europe, and the true portrait of what a man
of learning and failiion fliould he,
I fhail
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 35
I fhall only take upon me to refolve a difficulty which he feems to have had, — for what ufe the teeth of the elephimt, and the horns of the rhin- oceros, were intended. He, with reafon, ex- plodes the vulgar prejudice, that thefe arms were given them by nature to iight with each other. He ailss very properly, What can be the ground of that animoiity ? neither of them are carnivor- ous ; they do not couple together, therefore are not rivals in love ; and, as for food, the vaft foreRs they inhabit furnifli them with an abun- dant and everlafting (lore.
But neither the elephant nor rhinoceros eat grafs. The fheep, goats, horfes, cattle, and all the beafts of the country, live upon branches of trees. There are, in every part of thefe immenfe forefts, trees of a foft, fucculent fubftance. full of pith. Thefe are the principal food of the elephant and rhinoceros. They firft eat the tops of thefe leaves and branches ; they then, with their horns or teeth, begin as near to the root as they can, and rip, or cut the more woody part, or trunks of thefe, up to where they were eaten before, till they fall in fo many pliable pieces of the fize of laths. After this, thev take all thefe in their monftrous mouths, and twiil them round as we could do the leaves of a lettuce. The veiliges of this procefs, in its different ftages, we faw every day throughout the foreft ; and the horns of the rhinoceros, and teeth of the elephant, are often found broken, when their gluttony leads them \ to attempt too large or firm a tree.
•• 11 ^2 There
36 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
There now remained but two elephants of thofe that had been dircovered, which were a flie one with a calf. The Agageer would willingly have let thefe alone, as the teeth of the female are very fmall, and the young one is of no fort of value, even for food, its flefh Ihrinking much upon drying. But the hunters would not be limited in their fport. The people having obferved the place of her retreat, thither we eagerly fol- lowed. She was very foon found, and as foon lamped by the Agageers ; but when they came ^ to wound her with the darts, as every one did in their turn, to our very great furprife, the young one, which had been fufFered to efcape unheeded and unpurfued, came out from the thicket appa- rently in great anger, running upon the horfes and men with all the violence it was mailer of. I was amazed ; and as much as ever I was, upon fuch an occaiian, aiHicled, at feeing the great af- fection of the little animal defending its wounded mother, heedlefs of its own life or fafety. I there- fore cried to them, for God^s fake to fpare the mother, tho' it was then too late ; and the calf had made feveral rude attacks upon me, which I avoided without difficulty ; but I am happy, to this day, in the refleclion that I did not ftrike it. At laft, making one of its attacks upon Ayto En- gedan, it hurt him. a little on the leg ; upon which he thruft it through wit|i his lance, as others did after, and it then fell dead before its wounded mother, whom it had fo aiteciionately defended. It was about the iize of an afs, but round, big- bellied
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 37
bellied, and heavily made ; and was fo furious and unruly, that it would eafily have broken the leg- either of man or horfe, cx)uld it have overtaken them,. and joftled againft them properly.
Here is an example of a beaft (a young one too) poffefling abftracted fentiments to a very high de- gree. By its flight on the firft appearance of the hunters, it is plain it apprehended danger t3 it- felf, it alfo reflecled upon that of its mother, which was the caufe of its return to her affiftance. This affection or duty, or let us call it any thing we pleafe, except inftincl, was flronger than the fear of danger ; and it muft have conquered that fear by refieclion before it returned, when it re- folved to make its beil and lafl efforts, for it never attempted to fly afterwards. I freely forgive that part of my readers, who know me and themfelves fo little, as to think I believe it worth my while to play the mountebank, for the great honour of diverting them ; an honour far from being of the firfl rate in my eiteem. If they fhould fhew, in this place, a de- gree of doubt, that, for once, I am making ufe of the privilege of travellers, and dealing a little in the marvellous, it would be much more to the credit of their difcernment, than their prodigi- ous fcruples about the reality or poffibiHty of eat- ing raw fleih ; a thing that has been recorded by the united teftimony of all that ever vifited Abyf- finia for thefe two hundred years, has nothing un- reafonable in itfelf, though contrary to our prac- tice in other cafes 5 and can only be called in
queftion
3S TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
queilion row, through weaknefs, ignorance, or an intemperate deiire to find fault, by thofe that believed that a man could get into a quari bottle. What I relate of the young elephant contains diihculties of another kind ; though I arn very well perfuaded fome will fwallow it eafily, v/ho cannot diaeic the raw fieili. In both inflances I adhere ftricUy to the truth ; and I beg leave to affure thofe fcrupulous readers, that if they knew their author, they would think that his hav^ing invented a lie, foiely for the pleafure of diverting them, was much more improbable than either of the two foregoing facts. He places his merit in having accompiiihed thefe travels in general, not in being prefent at any one incident during the courfe of them ; the believing of which can re- fled no particular honour upon himfelf, nor the difbelieving it any fort of difgrace in the minds of liberal and unprejudiced men. It is for thefe only he would wiili to write, and thefe are the only perfons who can profit from his narrative.
The Agageers having procured as much meat as would maintain them a long time, could not be perfuaded to continue the hunting any longer. Part of them remained with the Ihe-elephant, which feem.ed to be the fatteft ; tho' the one they killed firft was by much the moil valuable, on ac-oOunt of its long teeth. It was ftill alive, nor did it feem an eafy operation to kill it, v/ithout the affifiance of our Agageers, even though it was totally heiplefs, except with its trunk.
Vve
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 39
We fought about for the buffaloes and rhinoce- rofes ; but though there was plenty of both in the neighbourhood, we could not find them ; our noife and fhooting in the morning having proba- bly feared them away. One rhinoceros only was feen by a fervant. We returned in the evening to a great fire, and lay all night under the fliade of trees. Here we faw them feparate the great teeth of the elephant from the head, by roafting the jaw-bones on the fire, till the lower, thin, and hollow part of the teeth were nearly confumed ; and then they came out eafily, the thin part be- ing of no value.
The next morning we were on horfeback by the daviTi of day in fearch of the rhinoceros, many of which we had heard make a very deep groan and cry as the morning approached ; feveral of the Agageers then joined us, and after vv^e had fearched about an hour in the very thickefi part of the wood, one of them ruflied out with great violence, crofiing the plain towards a wood of canes that was about two miles diilance. But though he ran, or rather trotted, with furprifing fpeed, confidering his bulk, he was, in a very little time, transfixed with thirty or forty jave- lins; which fo confounded him, that he left his purpofe of going to the wood, and ran into a deep hole, ditch, or ravine, a cul de/ac, without out- let, breaking above a dozen of the javelins as he entered. Here vv^e thought he was caught as in a trap, for he had fcarce room to turn ; when a fervant, who had a gun, Handing diredly over
him
40 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER.
him, fired at his head, and the animal fell imme- diately, to all appearance dead. All thofe on foot now jumped in with their knives to cut him up, and they had fcarce begun, when the animal re- covered fo far as to rile upon his knees ; happy then v\^as the man that efcaped finl ; and had not one of the Agageers, who was him.felf engaged in the ravine, cut the iinew of the hind-le2: as he was retreating, there would have been a very forroY%^ful account of the foot-hunters that day.
After having difpatched him, I was curious to fee what wound the fliot had given, which had operated fo violently upon fo huge an anim.al ; and I doubted not it was in the brain. But it had llruck him now^here but upon the point of the foreiiod horn, of which it had carried off above an inch ; and this occaiioned a concuiiion that had ftunned him for a minute, till the bleedino: had recovered hini. I prefer ved the horn from curiofity, and have it now by me|. I faw evi- dently the ball had touched no other part of the beaft.
"While we were bufy with the rhinoceros, KvCi- monios ioined us. A rneitas;e from the kine ha.d carried away Azage Kyrillos the fecretary. Two other mefTengers had arrived from the queen, one to Ayto Confu, and another to Ozoro Efther ; and it was Ozoro Efther's com.mands to her fon, to leave the hunting and return. There v/as no remedy but to obey : Am- monios, however, wanted to have his part of the
hunting
f See the article Rbinccercs in the Appendix.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 41
hunting ; and the country people told us, that multitudes of buffaloes were to be found a little to the wedward, where there were large trees and ftanair. x oools of water. We asrreed then to hunt homeward, without being over-folicitous about returning early.
V7e had not g-one far before a wild boar arofe between me and Ayto Engedan, which I imme- diately killed with my javelin. Before he, on his horfe, came up to it, another of its compa- nions fh^ired the fame fate about a quarter of an hour after. This was the fport 1 had been many years ufed to in Barbary, and was infinitely more dextrous at it than any of the prefent company ; this put me more upon a par with my compa- nions, who had not failed to laugh at me, upon my horfe's refufal to carry mc near either to the elephant or rhinoceros. Nobody w^ould touch the carcafe of the boar after it was dead, being an animal which is coniidered as unclean.
Ammonios was a man of approved courage and conduct, and had been in all the wars of Ras Michael, and was placed about Ayto Confu, to lead the troops, curb the prefumption, and check the im.petuoiity of that youthful warrior. He was tall, and aukwardly made ; How in fpeech and motion, fo much as even to excite ridicule ; about iixty years of age, and m.ore corpulent than the Abyfilnians generally are ; in a word, as pe- dantic and grave in his manner as it is poffible to exprefs. He fpent bis whole leifure time in reading' the fcripture. nor did he willingly dif-
courfe
43 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
courfe of any thing elfe. He had been bred a foot'foldier ; and, though he rode as well as many of the Abyffinians, yet, having long ftirrup lea- thers, with iron rings at the end of them, into which he put his naked toe only, inftead of flir- rups, he had no flrength or agility on horfeback, nor was his bridle fuch as could command his horfe to ftop, or wind and turn fharply among trees, though he might make a tolerable figure on a plain.
A boar, roufed on our right, had wounded a hcrfe and a footman of Ayto Confu, and then efcaped. Two buffaloes were found by thofe on the right, one of which wounded a horfe iike- wife. Ayto Confu, Engedan, Guebra Mariam, and myfelf, killed the other with equal fhare of merit, without being in any fort of danger. All this was in little more than an hour, when our fport feemed to be at the beft ; our horfes were coniiderably blown, not tired, and though w^e were beating homewards, ftill we were looking very keenly for more game. Ammonios was on the left among the bufhes, and fome large, beau- tiful, tall fpreading-trees, clofe on the banks of the river Bedowi, which ftands there in pools. Whether the buffalo found Ammonios, or Am- monios the buffalo, is what we could never get him to explain to us ; but he had wounded the beaft nightly in the buttock, which, in return^ had gored his horfe, and thrown both him and it to the ground. Luckily, however, his cloak had fallen off^ which the buffalo tore in^' pieces,
and
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 43
and employed .liaifelf for a minute with that and with the horfe, but then left them, and followed the man as foon as he faw him rife and run. Am- monios got behind one large tree, and from that to another ftili larger. The buffalo turned very aukwardly, but kept clofe in purfuit ; and there was no doubt he would have worn our friend out, who was not ufed to fuch quick motion. Ay to Engedan, who v/as near him, and miight have afiifted him, v/as laughing, ready to die at the droll figure a man of Ammonios's grave carriage made, running and ikipping about naked, with a fwiftnefs he had never praclifed all his life be- fore ; and Engedan continued calling to Confu to partake of the diveriion.
The moment I heard his repeated cries, I g-al- loped out of the bufhes to the place where he was, and could not help laughing at the ridiculous fi- gure of our friend, very attentive to the beaft's motions, which feemed to dodore with p-reat ad- drefs, and keep to his adverfary with the utmoft obftinacy. As foon as Engedan faw me, he cried, '' Yagoube ! for the love of Chriil ! for the love of the bleifed Virg-in ! don't interfere till Confu comes up," Confu immediately arrived, and iaudied more than Engedan, but did not offer to interfere ; on the contrary, he clapped his hands, and cried, " Well done, Ammonios," fvv^earing he never faw fo equal a match in his life. The unfortunate Ammonios had been driven from tree to tree, till he had got behind one within a few yards of the water j but the brufh-wood
upon
44 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
upon the banks, and his attention to the buffalo, hindered him from feeing how far it was below him. Nothing could be more ridiculous than to fee him holding the tree with both his hands, peeping firil one way, and then another, to fee by which the bead would turn. And well he might be on his guard ; for the animal vv^as abfo- lutely mad, toiling up the ground with his feet both before and behind. " Sir, faid I, to Ayto Gonfu, this will be but an ugly joke to nighty if we bring home that man's corpfe, killed in the very midft of us, while we were looking on." Saying this, I parted at a canter behind the trees, cryinsf to Ammonios to throw himfelf into the water, when I ihould ftrike the beafl; ; and feeing the buffalo's head turned from me, at full fpeed I ran the fpear into the lower part of his belly, through his whole inteilines, till it came out above a foot on the other fide, and there I left it, with a view to hinder the buffalo from turning. It was a fpear which, though fmall in the head, had a ftrong, tough, feafoned fhaft, which did not break by ftriking it againfl: the trees and bufhes, and it pained and impeded the animal's motions, till Ammonios auittinsj the tree, daflied through the buihes with fome dilEculty, and threw^ himfelf into the river. But here a dangfer occurred that I had not ferefeen. The pool was very deep, and Ammonios could not fwim ; fo that though he efcaped from the buffalo, he v/ould infallibly have been drowned, had he not caught bold of fome ilrong roots of a tree fhooting out
of
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE.
45
of the bank ; and there he lay in perfect fafety from the enemy, till our fervants went round, and brought him out of the pool on the further lide.
In the mean time, the buffalo, mortally wound- ed, feeing his enemy had efcaped, kept his eyes intent upon us, who were about forty yards from him, walking backwards towards us, with intent to turn fuddenly upon the neareft horfe ; when i^yto Confu ordered two men with guns to ilioot him through the head, and he inilantly fell. The two we firil killed were females ; this laft was a bull, and one of the largeft, confeiTedly, that had ever been feen. Though not fat, I guefs he weighed nearer fifty than forty ftone. His horns from the root, following the line of their curve, were about fifty-two inches, and nearly nine where thickeft in the circumference. They were flat, not round. Ayto Confu ordered the head to be cut Oil, and cleared of its fleih, fo that the horns and il^eleton of the head only remained ; this he hung up in his great hall among the pro- bofces of elephants, and horns of rhinocerofes, with this infcription in his own language, " Tagoube the K'lpt killed this upon the Bedozvi.'''
We v/ere now^ within iig;ht of home, to which we v/ent ilrais^ht without further huntinp-. Nei- ther the ridicule nor the condolence of the young men could force one word from Ammonios ; only when I aUced him whether or not he was hurt, he anfvvered from the fcripture, " He that loveth " danger fhall perifh in it.'' But at night Ozoro
Either,
46 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Eillier, either really orfeignedly, exprelTing lier- felf as clifpleafed with her fon Ayto Confu, Am- monios, vAio loved the young man iincerdy, could not bear to be the occai.on of tb'j ; fc that all refolved itfelf into mirth and joke. What ad- ded to the noerriment was, th^t the meiTengers from the Iteghe brought a large increafe to our itock of brandy ; but brought alio poiitive orders, both from her and the king, to Ozoro Eilher, to determine me, by all poilibie means, to return to Gondar, or elfe to repair thither* inilantly herfelf.
The evening of the day whereon we fet out to hunt, fome men arrived from Ras el Feel, fent by Yafme, with camels for our baggage, nothing but mules being ufed at Tcherkin. They brought word, that the Shangalla were down near the Tacazze, fo that now was the time to pafs with- out fear ; that Abd el Jeleel^ the form.er Shum of Ras el Feel, Yafine's mortal enemy, had been feen lurking in the country near Sancaho ; but as he had only four miCn, and was himxfelf a known coward, it was not probable he would attempt any thing againil us, though it would be always better that we keep on our guard.
Tcherkin has a market on Saturdays, in which raw cotton, cattle, honey, and coarfe cotton cloths are fold. The Shangalla formerly molefted Tcherkin greatly, but for thirty years paft they had done little damage. The fmaM-pox raged fo violently for a number of years am.ong them, that it has greatly diminiilied their numbers, and con- fequently their power of troubling their neigh- bours
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 47
hours. At Tcherkin we faw a prodigious quan- tity of black fcorpions, of a very fmall kind, fel- dom in the houfes, but chiefly hid under ilones ; feveral of our people were ftung by them, but no other mifchief followed, but a fmall fweiling, and a complaint of cold in the part, which went away in a few hours.
From the defcent of Moura, after leaving De- bra Tzai, and Kofcam, all was thick woods till we arrived at Tcherkin ; the roads very rugged and broken, but the weather was exceedingly plea- fant ; for though the thermometer was fome- times at 115'', it was always cool in the Ihade ; and by the fide of every river there was a freili gentle breeze from N. E. efpecially at mid-day. The mornings were always calm, or Vvdth little wind at N. E. It regularly changed about nine to N. W. and then fell calm. About four in the afternoon it generally was at weft or near it ; but two currents were conftantly diftinguiilied at night ; the lower N. E. veering eaflerly towards m.orning ; while the white fmall clouds very thin and high, coming very rapidly from the S. W, fhewed the direction and fcreno-th of the hirrher current. The mornings and nights v/ere cloudy from the firft of January, but th^ days perfecliy ferene.
On Wednefday the eighth of January, having rccliiied my quadrant with great attention, I found the latitude of Tcherkin, by a meridian al- titude of the fun, to be 13^ 7' 30" N. ; and ta- king a m.ean between that and the meridian alti- tude
45 ' TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
tude of eleven different ftars, the following night, I found the true latitude of 1 cherkin Air.ba to be 130 7' 35' north. But though from that Uuie I was ready to depart, I couid not poiTibly get dif- engaged from my friends, but by a compofition, which was, that I ihouid ftay till the 1 5th, the day before Ozoro Efther and her company were to fet out on their feturn to Gondar ; and that they, on their part, fliould fuffer me to depart on that day, without farther periualion, or throwing any obitacle whatever in my Vv'ay. The king had recommended to them this fort of agreement, if I vvas obfrinate, and this being fet- tled, we abandoned ourfelves to mirth and fefti- vity.
CHAR
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 49
CHAP. III.
Fro?n Tcherkin to Hor-Cacamoot^ in Ras el Feel- Ac count of it — Tranfadions there.
N the 15th of January, at a quarter pafl eight in the morning, we left Tcherkin, and entered immediately into thick woods ; but pro- ceeded very flowly, the road being bad and unknown, if it could be called a road, and our camels overloaded. About an hour aftervv^ards we palled a fmali village of elephant hunters on our right, and our courfe was fcraight north, through dark thick woods, overgrown w^ith long grafs, till at half an hour paPc ten we came to ano- ther fmall village clofe on our right. We then turned N. W. and continued in that direction, pafTmg feveral villages, all of elephant hunters, and m.oilly Mahometans. At three quarters after twelve we came to a fmall river which runs W. N. W. and falls into the Germ. a ; here we refled. At ten minutes pail one we fet out again, thro' the thickeft and m.ofl impenetrable woods I ever faw ; and at half pail four we encamped about two miles weft of Amba Daid, a fmi all village of elephant hunters, often deilroyed by the Shan- galla, but now lately rebuilt, and ftrengthened by Agageers and their families under proteclion Vol. V. E of
50 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
of Ayto Confu. We went not to the village, for the fake of a fmall brook which we had found here, running north, and falling into the Angrab.
On the i6th, at half after feven in the morning, we refumed our journey, going weft ward ; about an hour and a half afterwards we arrived at the Germa, a large river which runs N. N. V7. and falls into the Angrab ; and a quarter after nine we paffed the Germa, and going N. W. through the very thickeft woods, came to Dabdo, a hill almoft deferted, its inhabitants having; been fo frequently deftroyed by the Pagan Shangalla.
At twenty minutes paft ten, ftill going through
the thickeft woods, and ground all opened by the
heat of the fan, we found, in a graffy marlh, a
pretty abundant fpring of foul water. This is
the refort of the hunters of the elephant, as alfo
of their rivals and enemies the Shangalla ; and
here much human blood has been fhed by people
whofe occupation and intention, when they went
from home, were that of flaying the v/ild beafts
only. The Baafa or Dobena Shangalla, polTefs the
country which lies about four days journey N. E.
from this.
At a quarter paft eleven we came to the river
Terkwa ; which, after running N. W. falls into
the Angrab ; it then ftood in large deep pools ;
the banks were covered with tall green grafs ; the
tafte of the water foul, and earthy. At twelve
\^ e palled the river Terkwa ; and going north,
nbout an hour after we came to the Dongola, run-
nlng eaft and weft 5 and an hour after that to
Jibbel
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. , 51
Jibbel Myrat river, which running eail and weft, was once the boundary between Sennaar and Abyffinia. Hiflory does not tell us when thefe boundaries were altered, or upon what oec^iion. It was probably upon the firft invaiion that new ones were fettled. It fhould feem that the Abyf- linians had then the better of Nubia ; for a large acceflion of territory was ceded by the latter to the former. A few minutes after v<re came to the river Woodo, larger than the lail. It has a roc- ky bottom^, and is full of fmall fiih of a brownifli and filver colour. Where we crofled, it runs from weft to eaft, and falls into the Angrab. There v/e palTed the night, not without alarms^ as frefti foot-fteps in the fand were very plainly difcovered, which, by the length of the foot, and the iargenefs of the heels, our people pronoun- ced were furely Shangalla ; but nothing difaftroUs appeared all night.
On the 1 7th, before feven in the morning, we were again upon our journey, our direction N. and N. W. winding to due Weft. Andoval moun* tain ftood W. N. W. difiant from us four miles. At forty minutes paft eight, going due weft, An- doval mountain lay to the north of us ; and Awaffa mountains to the fouth. This is a ridsre which, coming from the north, ftretches fouth to Dabda, and Abra Amba. Andoval mountain is a fmaii pointed peek, which conftitutes tli^ north end of them. We halted here a fevv^ mi nutes, and refumed our route to the v/eftward.,
E 2 cirid
52 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and N. W. till we came to Sancaho, at half an
hourp aft one, and there we refted.
Sancaho is an old frontier territory of Abyflinia.
The town may coniift of about 300 huts or hou-
fes, neatly built of canes, and curioufly thatched
with leaves of the fame. It rifes in the midft of
a plain, and refembles in fhape Tcherkin Amba,
though much larger ; a confiderable diftridl all
around belongs to it, of wilds and woods, if fuch
as thefe, abandoned entirely to wild beafts, can be
faid to belong to any man. The eaft end Hopes
with rather a ileep defcent into the plain ; and
through that is a narrow winding road, feeming-
ly the work of art, being obftrucled at turns by
huge ftones, and at different ftages, for the pur-
pofe of defence by guns or arrows.; all the other
iides of the rock are perpendicalar precipices.
The inhabitants of the town are Baafa, a race of
' Shangalla, converted to the Mahometan religion ;
it is an abfolute government, has a nagareet or
kettle-drum for proclamiations, yet is underftood
to be inferior to Rag el Feel, and dependent on
it ; and always fubjecl to that nobleman, who is
Kafmati of Ras el Feel, fuch as Ayto Confu then
was, after he had refumed his government at my
departure, though during my ftay in Abyffinia it
had devolved upon me by his furrendering it.
Gimbaro, the Erbab or chief of Sancaho, was
thetalleft and flouteft man of his nation ; about
fix feet fix inches high, and ftrongly made in pro^
portion ; hunted always, on foot ; and was faid^
among his people, to have fingly killed elephants
with
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 53
with one blow ofhisfpear. The features of his face might well be called hideous ; he paid his part of the revenue in buffaloes hides, of which the bell ihields were made ; and with elephants teeth, and rhinoceros's horns, ufed for the han- dles of the crooked knives, v^hich the Abyffinians carry at their girdles. All the inhabitants of San- caho are hunters of elephants. It is their princi- pal food. Erbab Gimbaro came with Yaline, and brought more than a hundred of the Shano-alla to the king's army at Serbraxos, where the Moors alledged he did not any way diftinguifh himfelf. I had, however, taken confiderable notice of him ; and at his earneA defire carried him into the tent, and fliewed him the king.
We encamped at the bottom of the hill on the fouth-weft lide of the town, on the banks of the river, which rifes in the mountains fix miles off to the fouth, and encompaiTes the half of the hill, where Sancaho ftands ; after which it turns north- ward, but was now moilly dry. While we were pitching our tent, I fent one of Yafine's men to order Gimbaro to fend us the ufual quantity of provifion for ourfelves and camels, and told him alfo, that my camels were few in number, and weak ; defiring he would fend two, or one atleaft, which fhould be Hated in his deftar, or account of rent for that year. I was afloniflied to fee Yafme's men return, bringing with them only a woolly-headed black, the Erbab's fon, as it feem- £d, who, with great freedom and pertnefs, and in very good Amharic, faid, " My father falutes
you;
54 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
you; if ye eat what he eats, ye fhall be very wel- come." I afeed him, What that was ? — He faid. Elephant killed yefterday ; and as for camels ye demand, he tells you he has none ; elephants are Jiis camels, and rhinocerofes are his mules."
Ayto Confu's fervants, who heard this mefTage delivered, and who were as defirous of getting over this journey to Ras el Feel as I was, advifed me to iro with him up the hill to the town, and expodulate with the Erbah, who, he faid, would be afnamed to refufe. Accordingly, I armed my- felf with a pair of piilols at my girdle, with a fu- iil and bayonet in my hand ; and took with me two fervants with their pidols alfo, each carrying a large fhip-blunderbufs. We mounted the hill with great diitlculty, being feveral times obliged to pull up one another by the hands, and entered into a laiQ-e room fifty feet long:. It w^as all hung: round with elephants heads and trunks, with ffce- letons of the heads of fome rhinocerofes, and of monitrous hippopotami, as alfo feveral heads of the iriraiTa. Some lar^-e lion ikins were throv/n on feveral parts of the room, like carpets : and Gimbaro ftood upright at one end of it, naked, only a fmall cloth about his middle : the largeft man I ever rem.embered to have feen, perfecllv black, ilat-nofed, thick-lipped, and woolly-head- ed ', and feemed to be a perfect picture of thofe Cannibal giants v/hicl/we read of- as inhabiting enchanted cafiles in fairy tales.
He did not feem to take notice at my firft en- tering the room, nor till I was verv near him..
'He
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 55
He then came aukwardly forward, bowing, en- deavouring to kifs my hand, which I wirhdrew from him, and faid in a fu'm voice, " I appre- hend, Sir, you do not know me.*' He bowed and faid he did, but did not conceive, at the time, it was me that encamped at the brook. " You <iid not know. Sir, when you fent your fon with Yaiine's fervant, and you know that you are con- fiderably in my debt. Befides^ if you had any gratitude, you would remember the arrears I I'e- mitted you, and the prefents I made you when atSerbraxos, even though you mifbehaved there. Your meiTage to me while below at the river was the language of a rebel. Are you willing to be declared in rebellion r" He faid, " By no means; he had always been a faithful fervant to Avto Confu, Ras Michael, and the king, and had come to Serbraxos upon receiving the firit order, and would obey whatever I {liould comimand.'* "Then pay me the meery you owe me, and begin firft by bringing tw^o camels." " He faid, he never re- fufed the camels, and the m.eiiage he fent was but in fport." And was it fport too. Sir, faid I, when you faid you would fend me the liefh of elephants to eat ^ Did you ever know a Chriftian eat any fort of flefli that a Mahometan killed r" He anfwered. No; and begging my pardon, pro- mifed he would fend me brea J and honey, and the camels ihould be ready in the morning." They mufl be ready to-night, faid I, and before night too ; for I am to diipatch a fervant this evening to Ayto Confu to complain of your behaviour,
as
^6 ' TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
as I do not know what you may meditate againll us in our way to Ras el Feel." He begged now, in the moftearnell manner, I would not complain; and faid, he would have all his fpies outto the eaftward, that not a Shangalla ihould pais to mo- . left us, without our being informed of them. Some of his principal people now interfering, I confented to forget and forgive what had paiied. We then ate bread, and drank beer, to {how the reconciliation was fmcere, and fo the affair ended.
About fix in the evening came two flrong ca- mels, and about thirty loaves of bread made of Dora ; two large wheat loaves for me, as alfo a jar of wild horey, of excellent flavour, and with thefe a prefent to Ayto Confu's fervant.
On the 1 8th, about fix in the morning, Erbab Gimbaro, coming down to our tent, brought thirty loaves of Dora as before, and four of wheat, for the journey ; and we had already enough of honey, upon which we breakfafted with the Er- bab, who, to confirm the frie^idihip, took tvvo or three giaffes of ilrong fpirits, which put him into excellent humour. His fon, too, that he might atone for his lail night's miibehaviour, brought a better camel than any v/e had feen, and ex- changed it for one of thofe that came yeilerday in the evening. I, on the other hand, gave him a cotton cloth, and fome trifles, which made him perfectly happy ; and we parted in the moft cor- dial friendHiip poiTible, after having mxade a pro- mife that, at my return, I iliould flay a week at Sancaho to hunt the elephant and rhinoceros.
Before
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 57
Before leaving Sancaho, I had an opportunity of verifying a facl hitherto doubtful in natural hiftory. Mr. HalTelquift, the Swedifli traveller, when at Cairo, faw the fkins of two girafTos, Huf- fed, which came from Sennaar. He gives as mi- nute a defcription as pollible he could from feeing the fldns only ; but fays nothing about the horns, becaufe 1 fuppofe he did not fee them ; on which account the doubt remained undecided, whether the girafFo's horns were folid as the deer's, and call every year ; or whether they were hollow, attached to a core, or bone, like thofe of flieep, and confequently permanent. The Count de Buffon conjeclures them to be of this laft kind, and fo I found them. They are twilled in all ref- fpeds like the horns of an antelope.
At ten minutes pail eight v/e fet out from San« caho;-but my people took it into their heads, that, notwithflanding the fair behaviour of Erbab Gimbaro, he intended to lay fome ambuCh to cut us off, and rob us on the way. For my part, I was very well fatisfied of the contrary ; but this did not hinder them from forfaking the accuftom- ed road, and getting among a thick wood of canes ; we were obliged to cut our way out of them when our direclion was weft, or to the fouthward of weft. They were alfo afraid of x\bd el Jileel.
At ten minutes paft eleven we croITed the Be- dowi, which we had paffed twice before ; at half paft eleven we crofted it again, travelling fouth- ward J and a quarter after twelve we were fo
entangled
5S TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
entangled with woods, and fo fatigued with Cut- ting the VA ay for our camels, that v/e thought we ihould get no further. We had, however, con- . tinned till three quarters pafl one .in a diredion fouth-eaft, at which time we were not above five miles from Sancaho ; and, at half pail two, had turned fouth-weil on the banks of the large river Tokoor-Ohha, which figniiies the Black River. It comes from the mountains of Awaffa on the fouth-eaft, and, after winding coniiderably, it falls into the Guangue, about eight miles from Guan- jook.
Tokoor-Ohha is a river famous for the number of buffaloes that are upon its banks, v/hich are covered v^'ith large beautiful fhady-trees, all of a hard red wood, called Dengui Sibber, or Breaker of Stones. They had neither fruit nor flower on them at this time, by which we might judge to what tribe they belong; but they are not ebony which in this country is known by the name of Zope.
On the 19th, at three quarters pail fix we left our ftation on Tokoor river, which we crolTed about a quarter of an hour after, our direclion being nearly S. W. The territory here is called Giimaber, from Gilma, a fmall village a mile and a half diilant to the fouthward. Giimaber is about a mile and a half long, full of tall canes. From the time we left Tokoor river, we had been follov/ed by a lion, or rather preceded by one, for it was generally a fmall gun-fhot before us ; and where- evcr it came to a bare fpot, it would lit down
and
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 59
and grumble as if it meant to difpute the way with us. Our beafts trembled, and were all co- vered with fweat, and could fcarcely be kept on the road. As there feenied to be but one remedy for this difficulty, I took a long Turkiili rified gun, and crawling under a bank as near as pof- fible, ftiot it in the body, fo that it fell from the bank on the road before us, quite dead, and even without mufcular motion. It proved to be a large lionefs. All the people in this country eat the flelli of lions ; as I have feen fome tribes* in Barbary do likewife. We left the lionefs to the inhabitants of the neighbouring village, ikin and all ; for we were fo tired with this day's journey, that we could not be at the pains of fkinning her.
A few minutes after this we paffed the river Gilma, twice, which runs to the northward. At half pail nine we joined Dabda road, and a few minutes after croiTed the C)uartucca, a fmall river running north.
The country here becomes more open, for the thick woods have fmall plains betv/een them. In the entrance of a v/ood we found a man that had been murdered, and that very lately, as the wild beafts had not yet begfun to touch the body ; he had been ham-ftrung, and his throat cut, a per- formance probably of the neighbouring Shangal- la. At fifty minutes paft ten, our route being- weft, we paiTed under a hill a quarter of a mile
on
* Welled Sidi Boogannirii at Hydra, See Shav/'s Travels.
So TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
on our right, upon which is a village called Sa- lamgue. At a quarter pail eleven we crolTed the fmall river of Kantis ; and a quarter of an hour afterwards we afcended a hill upon which (lands a village of that name, inhabited by Mahometan ^hangalla of the tribe of Baafa.
On the 2oth we proceeded but a mile and a half ; our beails and ourfelves being equally fa- tigued, and our cloaths torn all to rags. Guan* jook is a very delightful fpot by the river lide ; fmall woods of very high trees interfperfed with very beautiful lawns; feveral fields alfo cultivated with cotton ; variety of game ( efpecially Guinea fowls, in great abundance) and, upon every tree, perroquets, of all the different kinds and colours compote .lie beauties of Guanjook. I faw no parrots, and fappofe there were none ; but on firing a gun, the firft probably ever heard in thofe woods, there was fuch a fcreaming of other birds on all iides, fome flying to the place whence the noife came, and fom.e flying from it, that it was impoilible to hear diftinclly any other found. It was at this place that I fliot that curious bird called the Erkoom * in Amhara ; the Abba Gum- ba, in Tigre ; and here at Guanjook, Teir el Na- ciba^ or the Bird of Deftiny.
On the 2 2d, at three quarters pad: fix we left Guanjook, and a few minutes after paiTed a fmall river called Gumbacca, and afterwards the river Tokocr. At half an l^our pail eight we refted
thercj
* See th& article Erkcom in the Appendix-
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 6i
there, and three hours after came to the Guangue. The Guangue is the largefl river we had feen in Abyffinia except the Nile and Taccaze. It rifes near Tchelga, or between Tchelga and Nara. It joins the Tacazze in the Barabra, in the kingdom of Sennaar. The two rivers when joined are called the Atbara, which gives its nam.e to the province. It abounds with hippopotami, and crocodiles, chiefly the former, which however we thought were moftly fmaller than thofe of the Nile.
At a quarter after one we came to Mariam- Ohha, and at half pail three arrived at Hor-Ca- camoot. Hor in that country iignifies the dry deep bed of a torrent, which has ceafed to run ; and Cacamoot, the Ihade of death ; fo that Yaline's village, v/here we now took up our quarters, is called the Valley of the Shadow of Death : A bad omen for weak and wandering travellers as we were, fiirrounded by a multitude of dangers, and fo far from home, that there feem.ecl to be but one that could bring us thither. We trufted in him, and he did deliver us.
Hor-Gacamoot is iituated in a olain in the midft Oi a v/cod, fo much only of which has been cleared a\va.y as to make room for the miferable huts of which it confifts, and for thefmall fpots of ground on vliich they fovv^ maihiila, or maize, to furniih them with bread. Their other food confifts en. tirely of the fieih of the elephant and rhinoceros, and chiefly of the former ; for the trouble of hunting the elephant is not greater than chafing
the
62 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the rhinoceros, and the difference of gain is mucli fuperior. The elephant has a greater quantity of better fieili, while his large teeth are very valua- ble, and afford a ready price everywhere. The inhabitants being little acquainted with the ufe of fire-arms, the fmaller game, of the deer kind, are not much molefted, unlefs by the wild Shangalla^ who make ufe of bows and arrows, fo that thefe animals are increafed beyond imagination.
Ras el Feel coniified once of thirty-nine vil- lages. All the Arabs of Atbara reforted to them with butter, honey, horfes, gold, and many other commodities; and the Shekh of Atbara, living UDon the frontier of Sennaar, entertained a con- flant good correfpondence with the Shekh of Ras el Feel, to whom he fent yearly a Dongola horfe, two razors, and tvv^o dogs. The Shekh of Ras el Feel, in return, gave him a mule and a female flave ; and the eflc^ci: of this intercourfe w^as to keep all the intermediate Arabs in their duty.
Since the expedition of Yafous II. againft Sen- naar, no peace has ever fubfiiled between the two fcates ; on the contrary, all the Arabs that allifted the kin;^, and were defeated with him, pay tri- bute no longer to Sennaar, but live on the fron- tiers of Abyfiinia, and are protected there. The two chiefs of Atbara, and Ras el Feel, under-- ftand one another perfeclly, and give the Arabs no trouble ; and, if they pay their rent to either, it is divided between both. It was through the means of thefe Arabs the king of AbylTinia's army ^'as furniihed. as we have feen, with heavy horfes;
and
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 63
and It was in confequence of my dependir.g on this friendfliip with the Shekh of Teawa, that I attempted going thro' that province to Sennaar.
Sometime before I left Gondar 1 had been threatened with an attack of the dyfentery. At my arrival at Hor-Cacamoot it grew worfe, and had many unpromiling fymptoms, when I was cured by the advice and application of a common Shangalla, by means of a fhrub called Woogi- noos*, growing very common in thofe parts, the manner of ufing which he taught me.
The country, from Tcherkin to Ras el Feel, or Hor-Cacamoot, is all a black earth, called Ma- zaga, which fome authors have taken for the name of the province. Hov/ever, the word Ma- zaga, in the language of the country, fignifies fat, loofe, black earth, or mold, fuch as ail that ilripe of land from 13'^ to 16^ of latitude is com- pofed of, at leail till you reach to the deferts of Atbara, where the rains end. Ras el Feel is, I fuppofe, one of the hottefi: countries in the known world. On the ift day of Pvlarch, at three o'clock in the afternoon, Fahrenheit's thermometer, in the fhade, was 114^, v/hich was at 61^ at fun- rife, and 82^ at fun-fet. i^nd yet this excefiive heat did not make a proportional imprefiion upon our feelings. The evenings, on the contrary,xa- ther feemed cold, and we could hunt at mid-day. And this I conilantly obferved in this fultry coun- try, that, what was hot by the glafs, never ap- peared
* See the article Wooginoos in the Appendix.
64 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
peared to carry with it any thing proportionate in our fenfations.
Ras el Feel formerly paid 400 ounces of gold, which is 4000 crowns ; Sancaho paid 100. But trade having decreafed, fmce the expedition of Yafous II. to Sennaar, without the king's demand beino' leflened, many people have left it, and are srone to Tcherkin.
I have feveral times, in the courfe of this work, taken notice of a black nation called Shangalla, who furround all the N. N. W. and N. E. of Abyffinia, by a belt fcarcely fixty miles broad. This is called by the Abyffininians, Kolla, or the Hot Country, which is likewife one of their names for hell. Two gaps, or fpaces, made for the fake of commerce, in this belt, the one at TcheVa, the other at Ras el Feel, have been fet. tied and poiiefTed by ilr angers, to keep thefe Shan- galla in awe ; and here the cuftom-houfes were placed, for the mutual interefl: of both kingdoms, before all intercourfe was interrupted by the im- politic expedition of Yafous againft Sennaar. Ras el Feel divides this nation of woolly-headed blacks into tvv^o, the one weft below Kuara, and border- ing on Fazucio (part of the kingdom of SennaarJ as alfo on the country of Agows. Thefe are the Shangalla that traiSc in gold, which they find in the earth, where torrents have fallen from the mountains : for there is no fuch thing as mines in any part of their country nor any way of col- lecting gold but this ; nor is there any gold found in Abyffinia, however confidently this has been
advanced ;
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 6$
advanced ; neither is there gold brought into that kingdom from any other quarter but this which we are now fpeaking of ; notwithftanding all the mifreprefentations of the miffionaries to make the attempts to fubdue this kingdom appear more lu- crative and lefs ridiculous to European princes. The other nation, on the frontiers of Kuara, has Ras el Feel on the eafl, about three days journey from the Cacamoot. The natives are called Gan- jar ; a very numerous and formidable nation of hunters, confifting of feveral thoufand horfe. The oriein of thefe is faid to have been, that when the Funge Tor black nation now occupying Sennaar) difpoiTefTed the Arabs from that part of the coun- try, the black-ilaves that were in fervice among thefe Arabs, all fxed and took poffeffion of the dif- tricls they now hold ; v/here they have greatly in- creafed in numbers, and continue independent to this day. They are the natural enemies of Ras el Feel, and m.uch blood has been fhed between them ; from miaking inroads one upon the other, murdering the men and carrying their v/omen in- to flavery. Yaiine, however, had become too llrong for them, by the ailillance of Ayto Confuj and they had offered to afilil the king at the cam- paign of Serbraxos. But they were found not fit to be trufted, fo were fent away, under pre- tence that they fnould attack Coque Abou Barea governor of Kuara for the rebels, and hinder him from coming to their affiftance ; and even this they did not do.
Vol. Y. F The
66 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
The title of their chief is Sheba, which Hgniiies the Old Man. His refidence is called Caihumo, by his own people ; and Dendy Kolla, by the Abyifinians of Kuara. Yafine, however, was now at peace with them, without which our journey would fcarce have been poflible. Sheba fent his fon to fee me at Ras el Feel ; we thought, at that time, he came as a fpy. However, when we de- parted I gave him a fmall prefent ; and we fwore mutual friendfhip, that he was to be ready always to fight againft my enemies, and that we were to ad: kindly by each other, though we were to meet, horfe to horfe, alone in the defert.
Yafine had done every thing, on his part, to fecure me a good reception from Fidele Shekh of Atbara. Every affurance poflible had been given, and I had before travelled fome thoufand miles up- on much {lighter promifes, which had, however, been always faithfully kept ; fo that I did not at all fufpe(5l that any thing unfair could be intended me at Teawa, w^here Fidele refided. But as the lofs of life was the confequence of being miflaken, I never did omit any means to double my fecurity.
Mahomet Gibberti, as we have before obferved,
had already carried a letter of mine from Gondar
to his mafler Metical Aga, Selidar to the Sher-
rifFe of Mecca in Arabia, requefling that he would
write to fome man of confideration in Sennaar,
and, taking it for granted that I was then arrived
at Teawa, defire that a fervant of the king might
be fent to give me fafe conduct from that frontier
to the capital. Yaiine had written to the fame
effea.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. ^^
efFed, directly to Sennaar, and fent a fervant of his, who, for fecurity fake, had nothing but the letter and an old ragged cloth about his waift ; and he had long ago arrived at Sennaar, the before- named place of his deftination.
i\mong the tribes of Arabs that were protected by Yaiine, and furnifhed with pafture, water, and a market for their cattle, and milk and butter, at Ras el Feel, were the Daveina, by much the moft powerful of all the Arabs in Atbara ; but they ventured no further fouthward than Beyla, for fear of the troops of Sennaar.
The Shekh of Beyla was a man of very great character for courage and probity. His name was Mahomet ; and I had often correfponded with him upon the fubjecl of horfes for the king while I was at Gondar. He was greatly tormented with the ftone, and by means of Yafine I had feveral times fent him foap -pills, and lime, with directi- ons how to make lime-water. I therefore fent a fervant of mine with a letter to the Shekh of Bey- la, mentioning my intention of coming to Sennaar by the way of Teawa and Beyla, and deiiring him to forward rfiy fervant to Sennaar, to Hagi Belal my correfpondent there, and, at the fame tiine, write to fome other friend of his own, to fee that the king's fervant fhould be difpatched to Teawa without delay. This fervant, with the letters, I committed to the care of the Shekh of the Davei» na, who promifed that he would himfelf fee him fafe into Beyla ; and, by a particular Providence, all thefe letters and melTengers arrived fafe with-
F 2 out
68 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
out mifcarriage of one, at the places of their def- tination, though we were long kept in fufpence before they took effect.
1 was now about to quit Ras el Feel for ever, in a firm perfwaiion that I had done every thing man could do to infure a fafe journey and good recep- tion at Sennaar, till one day I received a viiit from Mahomet Shekh of Nile ; which does not mean Shekh of the river, but of a tribe of that name, which is but a divifion of the Daveina. To this Shekh I had lliewn a particular attention in feve- ral trips he had made to Gond^ir, in confequence of which he was very grateful and anxious for my fafety. He told me, that he faw 1 was fetting out perfectly content with the meafures I had taken for my fafety at Sennaar, and he owned that they were the bell that human ?3rudence could fus;- geft ; " but fays he, in my opinion, you have not yet been cautious enough about Teav/a. I know Fidele well, and I apprehend your danger is there, and not at Sennaar." He then drew a moft un- favourable pidure of that Shekh, whom he affirm- ed to have been a murderer and a thief all his days, and the fon of a father no better than himfelf ; that he was of no religion-, neither Mahometan, Chriftian, nor Pagan, but abfolutely without fear of God J he faid however, be believed him to be . a great coward j and therefore the Vi^hole of my fafety reduced itfelf to thig, v/as he really afraid of Yafme, or not ? If he was, that became the beft
handle
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 69
handle we could lay hold on ; but if, on the con- trary, he was not afraid of Yaline, or was per- fuaded, as he very well might be by wicked peo- ple about him, that, when once I was out of the country, Yafme took no further charge of me, he doubted very much I Ihould never pafs Teawa, or, at leaft, without fuffering fome heavy affront or ill-ufage, the extent of which it was impoffiblc to determine.
Thefe feniible fuggeilions made a very ftrong impreffion on Yafine and me ; Yafme's firft po- fition was, that Fidele was certainly afraid to dif- oblige him ; but, allowing the pollibility he was not, he owned he had not fubflituted any fecond meafure to which I could truft. Vv^e all regretted that our friends the Daveina had been fuffered to depart without taking me with them by Sim-Sim and Beyla ; but it was now too late, as the Da- veina had for fome days arrived at the flat ion the near eft Beyla and the far theft from us. It v/as then a2:reed, that Nile lliould fend a relation of his, who was married to one of the tribes of Je- haina Arabs, encamped upon Jibbel Ifriff* near to Teawa, with whom Fidele was at that time ma- king peace, left they ihould burn the crop about the town. This man was not to enter the town of Teawa with me, but was to come thefe the next day, as if from his friends at Jibbel Ifriff ; and, if I then informed him there was danger, Ihould return to the Jehaina, mount a hajan or dromedary, and give Yafme information with all
pofHble
TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
pofiible fpeed. All this being now fettled, I prc^ pared for my journey, having firft, by many ob- servations by night and day, fixed the latitude of Hor-Cacamoot to be 13^ 1' 2)2!' north.
C H A P.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 71
CHAP. IV,
From Hor-Cacainoot to Teawa^ Capital of Athara,
It was on the 17th of March that we fet out from Hor-Cacamoot on our journey to Tea- wa, capital of the province of Atbaro. Our courfe was N. N. W. through thick bruihwood, with a few high trees ; our companions being eleven naked men, with affes loaden with fait. We had feveral interruptions on the road. At three in the afternoon we encamped at Falaty, the laft village of Ras el Feel, a little to the north- ward. A fmall mountain, immediately north from this village the one end of which is thought to refemble the head of an elephant, gives the name to the village and the province^. This moun^ tain ftretches in a diredion nearly north and fouth, as do the villages, and the fmall river when it has water, but it was now apparently dry. However, by digging pretty deep in the fand, the water filtering through the fides of the holes ^V led in a certain time with a putrid, ill-tafled, un- wholefome beverage, which is all this miferable
village
* Ras el Feel fignifies the head of an elephant.
jz TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
village has for Its ufe. The people look fickly and ill-coloured. Falaty is three miles and a half diftant from Hor-Cacamoot, its name interpreted is Poverty.
On the iSth, at half after iix. in the morning, we continued our journey through thick, and al- moft impenetrable woods full of thorns ; and in two hours we came to the bed of a torrent, though in appearance dry, upon digging with our hands in the loofe fand, we found great plenty of frefh water exceedingly well tailed, being fhel- tered by projecting rocks from the a6lion of the fun. This is called Surf el Shekh. He we filled our girbas, for there is very little good water to be found between this and Teawa.
A girba is an ox's ikin fquared, and the edges fewed together very artificially by a double feam, which does not let out vrater, much refembling that upon the bed Engliih cricket-balls. An open- ing is left in the top of the girba, in the fame man- ner as the bung-hole of a caik. Around this the Ikin is gathered to the iize of a large handful, which, when the girba is full of water, is tied round with v/liip-cord, Thefe girbas generally contain about fixty gallons each, and two of them are the load of a camel. They are then all be- fmeared on the outiide with greafe, as well to hin- der the water from oozing through, as to prevent its, being evaporated by the action of the fun up- on the girba, which in fact happened to us twice, fo as to put us in imminent danger of periihing with thiril.
Yafme
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 73
Yafine had provided a camei and two girbas, as well as every other proviiion necelTary for us, till we fhould arrive at Teawa. Surf el Shekh is the boundary of Ras el Feel. Here I took an affedi- onate leave of rny friend Yafine, ^who, with all his attendants, fliewed, at parting, that love and. attachment they had conftantly prefer ved to me fmce our firfl acquaintance.
Soliman, my old and faithful fervant, who had carried my firil letter to Sennaar, though provi- ded for in the king's fervice, infilled upon attend- ing me to Sennaar, and dvins; with me if it iliould be my fate ; or elfe gaining the revv^ard w^hich had been promifed him, if he brought back the good news of my fafe arrival and good reception there. At parting, I gave the faithful Yafine one of my horfes and my coat of mail, that is my ordinary one ; for the one that was given me by Ozoro Efther had belonged to king Yafous, and as it would, have been an affront to have beflowed it on a common man like Yafine, who, befides, was a Mahometan, fo I gave it (with Ozoro Efther's- confent) to Ay to Engedan, king Yafous's grand- fon. Before parting, Yaiine, like an old travel- ler, called the whole company together, and obli- ged them to repeat the Fedtah, the Prayer of Peace.
At half ppwil feven in the evening we came to Engaldi, a large bafon or cavity, feveral hundred yards in length, and about thirty feet deep, made for the reception of water by the Arabs, who en- camp by its fide after the rains. The water was
almoft
74 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
almofl exhaufted, and what remained had an in- tolerable flench. However, flocks of Guinea fowls, partridges, and every fort of bird, had crowded thither to drink, from the fcarcity of water elfe- where. I believe, I may certainly fay, the num- ber amounted t6 many thoufands. My Arabs loaded themfelves in a very little while, killing them with fticks and flones ; but they were per- fectly ufelefs, being reduced to fkeletons by hun- ger and thiril. For this reafon, as well as that I might not alarm any flrolling banditti within hearing, I did not iuffer a fhot to be fired at them.
At eight v/e came to Eradeeba, where is neither village nor v/ater, but only a refting-place about half a mile fquare, which has been cleared from wood, that travellers, who pafs to and from At- bara, might have a fecure fpot whence they could fee around them, and guard themfelves from be- ing attacked unawares by the banditti fometimes reforting to thofe defer ts.
At a quarter pafl eleven we arrived at Quaicha, a bed of a torrent where there was now no water ; but the wood feemed growing flill thicker, and to be full of wild beafts, efpecially lions and hyaenas. Thefe do not fly from man, as thofe did that we had hitherto feen, but came boldly up, efpecially the hyaena, with a refolution to attack us. Upon our firfl lighting a fire they left us for a time ; but towards morning they came in greater numbers, than before ; a lion carried away one of our aifes from among the other beafts of burden, and a Jiy^na attacked one of the men, tore his cloth
from
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 75
from hi^ middle, and wounded him in the back. As we now expeded to be inilantly devoured, the prefent fear overcame the refolutions we had made, not to ufe our fire arms, unlefs in the ut- moft neceility. I fired two guns, and ordered my fervants to fire two large fhip-blunderbuiTes, which prefently freed us from our troublefome guefts. Two hysenas were killed, and a large li- on being mortally wounded was difpatched by our men in the morning. They came no more near us ; but we heard numbers of them howling ^t a diftance till day -light, either from hunger or the fmarts of the wounds they had received, per- haps from both ; for each ihip-blunderbufs had fifty fmall bullets, and the wood towards which they were direcled, at the diftance of about twen- ty yards, feemed to be crowded with thefe ani- mals. The reafon why the hyaena is more fierce here than in any part of Barbary, will be given in the natural hiftory of that wild beafl: in the Appendix.
Though this, our firft day's journey from Fa- laty and Ras el Fe€l, to Quaicha, was of eleven hours, the diftance we had gone in that time was not more than ten miles ; for our beafts were ex- ceedingly loaded, fo that it was with the utmoft difficulty that either we or they could force our- felves throuQch thofe thick woods, which fcarcely admitted the rays of the fun. From this ftation^ however, we were entertained with a moft mag- nificent fi^ht. The mountains at a diftance toWf ards the banks of the Tacazze, all Debra Haria^
and
76 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and the mountains towards Kuara, were in a vio- lent bright flame of lire.
The Arabs feed all their flocks upon the branch- es of trees ; no beafi: in this country eats grafs. When therefore the water is dried up, and they can no longer ftay, they fet fire to the woods, and to the dry grafs below it. The flame runs under the trees, fcorches the leaves and new wood, with- out confamiag the bo dy of the tree. After the tropical rains begin, the vegetation immediately returns ; the fprings increafe, the rivers run, and the pools are filled with water. All forts of verdure being now in the greateH luxuriaricy, the Arabs reviiit their former ilations. This conflagration is performed at two feafons ; the firft, by the Shangalla and hunters on the fouthern parts of this woody country, begins in the month of Oc- tober, on the return of the fun, the circumftan- ftances of which I have already mentioned ; the latter, which happens in March, and lafts all April, befides providing future fuilenance for their flocks, is iikewife intended to prevent, at leaft to diminifli, the ravag-es of the fly ; a plague of the moil extraordinary kind, already defcribed.
We left Quaicha a little before four in the morn- ing of the 19th of March, and at half an hourpaft fivQ we came to Jibbel Achmar, a fmall moun- tain, or rather mount ; for it is of a very regular form, and not above 300 feet high, but covered with green grafs to the top. What has given it the name of Jibbel Achmar, or the Red Moun- tain, I know not, AU the country is of red
earth
* THE SOURCE 0? THE NILE. 77
earth about it ; but as it hath much grafs, it fhould be called * the Green Mountain, in the middle of the red country ; though there is nothing more vaocue or undetermined than the iang^uasre of the Arabs when they fpeak of colours. This hill, fur- rounded with imoenetrable woods, is in the be- ginning of autumn the rendezvous of the Arabs Daveina, when there is water ; at which time the rhinoceros and many forts of beafts, crowd hi- ther ; tho' fev/ elephants, but they are thofe of the largeft kind, moftly males ; fo that the Arabs make this a favourite ftation, after the grafs is burnt, efpecially the young part of them, who are hunters.
We reached Imferrha at half paft eleven, the water being about half a mile diftant to the S. W. The wells are iituated upon a fmall ridge that runs nearly eafl and weft. At one extremity of this is a fmall-pointed mountain, upon which was for- merly a village belonging to the Arabs, called Je- haina, now totally deftroyed by the hunting par- ties of the Daveina, the great tyrants of this coun- try, who, togetlier with the fcarcity of water, are the principal caufes that this whole territory is defolate. For though the foil is fandy and im- proper for agriculture, yet it is thickly overgrown with trees ; and v/ere the places where water is found fufficientlv ftocked with inhabitants, ^reat numbers of cattle might be paftured here, every fpecies of which live upon the leaves and the
voung:
f Jibbel Achdar.
7S TRAVBLS TO DISCOVER
young branches of trees, even on fpots where grafs Is abundant.
On the 2oth, at fix o'clock in the morning, we fet out from Imferrah, and in two hours arrived at Rafhid, where we wxre furprifed to fee the branches of the fhrubs and buihes all covered with a fhell of that fpecies of univalve called Tur- bines, white and red ; fome of them from three to four inches long, and not to be diftinguiihed by the niceft eye from thofe fea-fbells, of the fame fpecies, which are brought in great quantities from the Well India iflands, efpecially St. Do- mingo.
How thefe came firft in a fandy defert fo far from the fea is a difquiiition I fhall not now en- ter into. There are of this fifh great numbers in the Red Sea, and in the Indian Ocean ; how they came upon the buihes, or at the roots of them, appears more the bufinefs of the prefent narrative. To confine myfelf to the matter of facl, I fhall only fay, that throughout this defert are many fprings of falt-water ; great part of the defert is follile fait, which, buried in fome places at dif- ferent depths according to. the degree of inclinati- on of all minerals to the horizon, does at times in thefe fountains appear very near the farface. Here I fuppofe the feed is laid, and, by the addi- tion of the rain-water that falls upon the fait du- ring the tropical rains, the quantity of falt-water is much increafed, and thefe fifhes fpread them- felves over the plain as in a temporary ocean. The rains decreafe, and the fun returns ; thofe
that
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 79
that are near fprings retire to them, and provide for the propagation of future years. Thofe that have wandered too far off in the plains retire to the buihes as the only flielter from the fun. The intenfe heat at length deprives them of that Ihade, and they perifh with the leaves to Vv^hich they crept for flielter, and this is the reafon that we faw fuch a quantity of fliells under the buihes ; that we found them other wife alive in the very heart of the fprings, we fhall further circumftantiate in our Appendix, when we fpeak of mulTels fo found in our hiilory of the formation of pearls.
Rafliid was once full of villages, all of which are now ruined by the Arabs Daveina. There are feven or eight wells of good water here, and the place itfelf is beautiful beyond defcription. It is a fairy land, in the middle of an inhofpitable, imin- habited defert ; full of large wide fpreading trees, loaded with flowers and fruit, and crowded with an immenfe number of the deer kind. Amonq; thefe, we faw a large one, like the antelope, his buttocks (a conflderable way up his back) being covered with white, which terminated upon his thigh in a black line, drawn from the haunch dowm very nigh to the joint of his hind leg. Thefe we had never feen before. They are called Ariel in Arabia, go in large flocks, are exceed- ingly fwift ; though, from the neceility of com- ing to water, and its only being found in parti- cular places, they were an eafy victim to thofe that watched for them at night.
Sim Sim is a copious fpring, which fupplies a
larcre
o
8o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
large bafon the Arabs have dug for it near thirty feet deep. It lies weft of Rafliid, or a little to the fouthward of weft. It is in a fandy defert, in the direct way to Beyla and Sennaar, and here the Daveina kept tlieir flocks, equally fecure from the fly and the troops of Sennaar, the two great ene- mies they have to fear ; and being in the neigh- bourhood of Ras el Feel, they keep a large mar- ket there, fupplying that country amply with proviiions of all kinds, and getting from it, in re- turn, what they have not in their own diftricl.
We were juft two hours in coming to Rafhid, for we were flying for our lives ; the Simoom^ or hot-wind, having ftruck us not long after we had fet out from Imferrah, and our little company, all but myfelf, fell mortally fick with the quantity of poifonous vapour that they had imbibed. I apprehend, from Ralhid to Imferrah it is about five miles ; and though it is one of the moft dan- gerous halting places between Ras el Feel and Sen- naar, yet we were fo enervated, our ftomach fo weak, and our head-achs fo violent, that we could not pitch our tent, but each wrapping him- felf in his cloak, refigned himfelf immediately to lleep, under the coolihacle of the large trees, invi- ted by the pleafant breeze fi'om the north, which feemed to be merely local, confined to this fmall grove, created probably by the vicinity of the wa- ter, and the agitation we had occaftoned in it.
In this helplefs ftate to which we were reduced, I alone continued not weakened by the iiinoom, nor overcome by ileep. A Ganjar Arab, who
drove
THE SOURCE OF THE NfLE. St
drove an afs laden with fait, took this opportuni- ty of fteahng one of thefe mules, together with a lance and fhield belonging to one of my fervants. The country was fo woody, and he had fo much advantage of us in point of time, and we were in fo weak and difcouraged a ftate, that it was thought in vain to purfue one ftep. So he got off with his booty, u-nlefs he was intercepted by feme of thofe v/ild beafts, which he would find every w^here in his way, whether he returned to
Ras ei Feel, or the frontiers of Kuara, his own country- Having refreihed ourfelves with a little lleep^ the next thing was to fill our girbas, or fkins, with' water. But before we attempted this, I thought to try an experiment of mixing about twenty drops of fpirit of nitre in a horn of water about the fize of an ordinary tumbler. This I found greatly refrefhed me, though my head-ach full continued. It had a much better efFeclupon my fervants, to whom 1 gave it ; for they all feemed immediately recovered, and their fpirits much more fo, from the reflection that they had with them a remedy they could truft to, if they fhould again be fo unfortunate as to meet this poifonous wind of vapour.
On the 2ifl:, we fet out from Raihid at two o'clock in the morning, and at a little pad eight arrived at Imhanzara, having gone moftly N. W. to north and by v/eft. This, too, is a ftation of the Arabs Daveina ; and there had been here large pools of water, the cavities, apparently dug Vol. V. . G , by
S2 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
by the hands of men, were from twenty to thirty fezt deep, and no lefs than iixty yards long. The water v/as juft then drying up ; and ftood only about half a foot in depth, in the bottom of one of the pools. The borders of the bafons were thick fet with acacia and jujeb-trees ; but the fruit of the latter was drying upon the ftones, and had fallen {hrivelled in great quantities upon the ground. We gathered about a couple of pecks, which was a very great refreihment to us. The fruit, though retaining a very (harp acid tafte, is mixed with a fweetnefs not unlike the tam.arind ; and which it communicated to water, upon a handful of the dry fruit being fteeped therein for half an hour. The ordinary jujeb in Barbary is oblong like an olive ; this is perfectly round like the cherry, but fomething fmaller. The tree is thorny, and diHers in nothing from the other, but only in the fhape of the fruit. When dried it is of a golden colour ; and is here called Nab- ca, being the principal fuftenance of the Arabs, till thefe pools are dry, when they are obliged to feek other food, and other water, at fome more diftant ftation.
This day, being the fifth of our journey, we had gone about five hours very diligently, though, coniidering the v/eak flate v/e were in, I do not think we advanced more than feven or eight miles ; and it was to me very vifible, that all the anim.als, mules, camels, and horfes, were afFecl- ed as much as we were by the fimoom. They drank repeatedly, and for a confiderable length
of
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. S3
t)f time, but they feemed to go juft fo much the worfe for it.
Upon approaching the pool, that had water in it, though yet at fome diilance from it, my fer- vants fent me word to come up fpeedily, and bring fire- arms with me. A lion had killed one of the deer, called Ariel, and had ate a part of it^ but had retired upon the noife we had made in alightir.ig. In place of him, five or fix hyasnas had feizecl the carcafe, and feveral others were at the inftant arriving to join them, and partake of the prey the lion had abandoned. I haftened up- on the fummons, carrying: with m„e a mufket and bayonet, and a fhip blunderbufs, Vv^ith about for« ty fmall bullets in it. I crcDt throu2:h the buihcs^ and under banks as near to them as poiTible, for fear of being feen ; but the precaution feemicd en- tirely fuperfluous ; for though they obferved me approaching, they did not feem difpofed to leave their prey, bat in their turn looked at me, railing the briftles upon their back, Ihaking themxfelves as a dog does when he comes out of water, and gi- vins: a ihort but terrible sfrunt. After which thev - fell to their prey again, as if they m.eant to dif- patch their deer firft, and then come and fettle their affairs with mie. I now began to repent ha- ving ventured alone fo near ; but knowing, v/ith the fhort weapon I had, the execution depended a good deal upon the diflance, I ftill crept a little nearer, till I got as favourable a poiition as I could wifh behind the root of a large tree that had fallen into the lake. Having fct my mufket
G 2 at
S4 TRAVELS TO DlSCOVflR
at my.hand, near and ready, I levelled my blun. derbufs at the middle of the group, which were feeding voracioufly like as many fwine, with a coniiderable noife, and a civil war with each other. Two of them fell dead upon the fpot ; two more died about twenty yards diftance ; but all the reft that could efcape fled without looking back, or ihewingany kind of refentment : I then took my muiket in my hand, and flood prepared with my bayonet, behind the tree, but fired no more, not knowing what their humour or difpc- fition might be as to a return upon acceilion of new companions.
About twenty fiTiall foxes, and a flock of feve- ral hundred Guinea-fowls, now came ud from the iniide of the pooL The fowls lighted imme- diately, and ran back again to the water. The foxes retired quickly into the wooda. Whether they had afTembled vAth a view of getting a fliare of the deer, an animal of this kind being gene- rally attendant upon the lion, or v/hether, as is moft likely, they were feeking the Guinea-fowls, I do not knovv% I fufpecl it was the latter, by their num.ber ; for never more than one at a time is remarked to accompany the lion.
We obferved a variety of traps and cages, fome of them very ingenious, which the Davcina, or other Arabs, had fet to catch thefc birds, fever al of which we found dead in thefe fnares, and fome of them had not yet been touched by beads ; and as there was but a fmall diftance between the traps and the water's edge, which could only be an-
fwerable
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 85
fwerable to a few days evaporation, we \vith great reafon inferred, that the Daveina, orfome other Arabs, had been there a very Ihort time before. We found in the mud of the pool large green ihell-fnailsj vdth the animals alive in them. ; fome of them weio^hed very near a pound, in notiiins", but iize and .hickneis of the fhell, different from common garden-fnails.
Not a little alarmed at this difcovery that the Arabs were near us, we left Imhanzara at four o'clock in the evening of the 2ifL, our journey moftly N. W. at eight we loft our way, and were obliged to halt in a wood. Here we were terri- fied to find, that the water in our girbas was en- tirely gone ; whether by evaporation of the hot wind, or otherwife, I know not ; but the ikin had the appearance of water in it, till its lio-htnefs in unloading difcovered the contrary. Though all the people were fick, the terror of being with- out water gave us fomething like alacrity, and defire to puih on. We fet out at eleven, but ftili wandered in the v/ood till three o'clock in the mornine of the 2 2d, v/hen we were oblio^ed ao-airv to alight. I really then began to think we were loft. I ordered the eirbas to be examined : a larsre one which we had filled at Rafhid was entirely empty ; and that one which we had partly filled at Imhanzara, on account of the badnefs of the water, had not much more in it than what kepe liquid the mud which had been taken up with it. This, however, (bad as it v/as) was greedily guzzled up in a moment. The people who con- dueled
86 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ducted the affes, feeing that we had fldns to con- tain plenty of water for us, had omitted to fill the fmall goat-(kin which each of them carried. A ge- neral murmur of fear and difcontent prevailed through our whole company ; for we could have no guefs at the nearnefs or fituation of the next well, as we had loft our road ; and fome of the caravan even pretended that we had pafTed it. But though we had travelled thirteen hours-, I cannot eompute thediftance to have been above fourteen miles.
This day, being the fixth from Kas el Feel, at half after five in the morning, we fet off in great defpondency ; and, upon the firft dawn of day, I fet our route by the compafs, and found it north, and by eail, or more eaflerly. This did not feem the probable road to Sennaar, after having gone fo confiderably to the north-weft» But, before I eould make much reflection upon the obfervation^ ane of the caravan declared he knew the road, and that we had gone very little out of it, and were now proceeding ftraight to the well. Ac- cordingly, at half paft nine, we reached it ; it^^is called Imgellalib *. There is great pknty of wa- ter, v^ith a leather-bucket, and a ftraw rope to draw it up, but it is very ill-tafted. However, the fear of dying with thiril, more than having m?.terially fafiered from it, made every one prefs to drink ; and the effect of this hurry was very
foon
-{■ The word flgnifies the Well of Caravans : I fuppofe of thofe which, ^ike ours, bring ialt into AtbUra, for there is no other trade between th.e two nations.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 87
foon feen. Two Abyffinian Moors, a man and woman, died after drinking ; the man inftantly, and the woman a few minutes after ; for my own part, though thirfty, I was fenfible I could have held out a confiderable time without danger ; and indeed, I did not drink till I had waHied my head, face, and neck all over. I then waOied my mouth and throat, and, having cooled myfelf, and in great meafure aiTuaged my thirft, I then drank till I v/as completely fatisfied, but only by fmall draughts. I would have perfuaded all my com- panions to do the fame, but I was not heard ; and one would have thought, like the camels, they had been drinking once for many days to come. Yet none of them had complained of thirfl: till they heard the girbas were em.pty ; and it was not fixteen hours iince they had drank at Imhanzara, and but twelve iince the girbas were found to be dry, w^hen we firft loft our way, and flopped in the wood.
The exteniive, and very thick foreft, w^hich had reached without interruption all the way from Tcherkin, ended here at Imeellalib. The country is perfectly fiat, and hath very little wa- ter. The foreft, however, though thick, aiTorded no fort of fliade ; the hunters, for the fake of their fport, and the Arabs, for deftroying the flies, having; fet fire to all the dry ffrafs and fm-ubs, Vv'hich, painng with great rapidity, in the diredion of the wood from eaft to Y^dA. thou oh it had not time enough to deftroy the trees, did yet v/ither, and occafion every leaf that was upon
them
S8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
them to fall, unlefs in thofe fpaces where villages had been, and where water was. In fuch fpots a number of large fpreading tree^^ remained full of foliage, which, from their great height, and being cleared of underwood, continued in full verdure, loaded with large, projecling, and exu- berant branches. But, even here, the pleafure that their fhade afforded was very temporary, fo as to allow us no time for enjoyment. The fun, fo near the zenith, changed his azimuth fo ra- pidly^. that every few minutes I was obliged to change the carpet on which I lay round the trunk of the tree, to which I had fled for fhelter ; and, though I lay down to fieep, perfedly Ikreened by the trunk, or branches, I wasprefently awak- ened by the violent rays of a fcorching fun, the ihade having paiTed beyond me; and this was particularly incommodious, when the trees, un- der which we placed ourfelves, were of the thorny kind, very common in thofe forefts. The thorns, being all fcattered round the trunk upon the ground, made either changing-place, or lying, equally uneafy ; fo that often, however averfe we were to faticrue, with the effects of the fimoom, we found, that, pitching the head of our tent, and fometimes the whole of it, was the only pof- fible means of fecuring a permanent protection from the fun's oppreflive heat. In all other places, though we had travelled conftantly in forefts, we never met with a tree that could ihade us for a
moment.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 89
moment, the fire having deprived them of all their leaves.
— Late iihi gurgite rupto
AfiibiUir nigris Meroe fxcimda colonis^ Lata ccmis bebeni ; qiia^ quamvis arhore multd Frondeat^ cBftatera nulla fibi mitigat umbrd^ Line a tam reflu?n mundi ferit ilia leonem,
LUCAN.
Having refrefhed ourfelves for near two hours by the enjoyment of this water at Imgellalib, and raked a fufficient quantity of fand over the dead bodies of our two companions, from piety and decency rather than for ufe, we abandoned them to the hyoenas, who had already fmelled the mor- tality, and were coming, two and three together, at the diftance of a long ihot from the well where we were then drinking. We fet out at eleven , our road being thro' a very exteniive plain \ and at two in the afternoon, we alighted at another well, called Garigana ; the water was bad, and in fmall quantity. In this plain is fituated the principal village of Atbara, called Teawa. The thermometer, flung under the camel, in the ihade of the girba of water, had yet, neverthe- lefs, varied within thefe three hours from 111^ to 1 19.J.
At live o'clock we left Garigana, our journey being flill to the eailward of north ; and, at a quarter paft fix in the evening, arrived at the vil- lage of that name, whofe inhabitants had ail
periihed
90 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
perifhed with hunger the year before ; their wretched bones being all unburied and fcattered upon the furface of the groui>d where the village formerly ftood. We encamped among the bones of the dead ; no fpace could be found free from them; and on the 23d, at fix in. the morning, full of horror at this miferable fpeclacle, we fet out for Teawa : this was the feventh day from Ras el Feel.- After an hour's travellins: we came to a fmali river, w^hich ftill had water Handing in fonie coniiderable pools, although its banks were perfectly deftitute of any kind of ihade.
At three quarters after feven in the evening we arrived at Teawa, the principal village and reiidence of the Shekh of Atbara, between three and four miles fromx the ruins of Garig-ana. The whole diftance, then, from Hor-Cacamoot, may be about fixty-five miles to Teawa, as near as I then could compute, that is, from Hor-Cacamoot to Rafhid, thirty -two miles, and from Raihid to Teawa, thirty-three miles ; but Raihid from Hor« Cacamoot bears N. W. and by N. and the lati- tudes are :- —
Teawa, lat. 14° 1' 4'^ N.
lior-Cacamoot, 13^ 1 33''
Difference, lat. i^ o' 3^"
The difference of longitude is then but five or fix niiles 5 fo that Teawa is very little to the weft- ward
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. gi
ward of due north from Hor-Cacamoot, and nearly in the' fame meridian with Ras el Feel, which is four miles weft of Hor-Cacamoot. From Imhanzara to Teawa, but efpeciaily from Imgel- lalib, we went alv/ays to the eaftward of north. From Teawa we obferved the following bearings and diftances :
Beyla, W. S. W. about 28 miles at fartheft. Halib, S. and by W.
Jibbel, Imiiddera, S. about 8 miles, where is good water.
Mendera, N. 48 miles ; indifferent water from deep wells.
Railiid, S. nearly 33 miles ; plenty of good water all the year.
Jibbel IfrifF, E. N. E. about three miles ; wa- ter.
Jibbel AtteHi and Habharras, W. and by N. be- tween 50 and 60 miles.
Sennaar, W. and by N. as far as we could guefs about 70 miles.
Guangue River, from 1 4 to 16 miles due eaft. Derkin, E. N. E. about 27 miles. At Garigana, feveral of our caravan, with their alTes and loading of fait, left us^, either afraid of entering Teawa, or becaufe their friends dv/elt at Jibbel IfrifF, where the clan of Jehaina were then encamped J being afraid of the Arabs Daveina, who, the preceding year, had deflroyed all the crops and villages that belonged to them, or ra- ther reaped them for their own advantage. The
whole tribe of Jehaina is greatly their inferiors in
all
92 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
all refpecls, and as by aflembling upon Jibbel IfrifF, a low though very rugged ridge of hills, abound- ing in water, where the pits in which they hide their grain were, and w^here, too, they had de- polited the principal of their effects, they had <riven this pledc-e of mutual aiiiilance to the in- habitants of Teawa in cafe of an attack from thofe great deilroyers the Daveina.
The Daveina being Arabs, who conftantly live in tents, bear a mortal enmity to all who inhabit villages, and, as occafion offered, had deilroyed, flarved, and laid wafte the greatell part of Atbara. They had been outlawed by the government of Sennaar for having joined Yafous 11. upon the expedition againfl that kingdom. They had eve;* iince been well-received by the Abyffinians, lived independent, and in perpetual defiance of the go- vernment of Sennaar. They had often threaten- ed Teav/a, but had given the Shekh of Beyla an ailurance of friendiliip ever iince Yafine had mar- ried a dauo-hter of that Shekh.
The flrength of Teawa Vv^as about 25 horfe, of which about ten were armed, with coats of mail. They had about a dozen of firelocks, very con- temptible from the order in which they were kept, and ftill m.ore fo from the hands that bore them. The red: of the inhabitants mxif>:ht am.ount to twelve hundred men, naked, miferable, and defpicable Arabs, like the reft of thofe that live in villages, who are much inferior in courage to the Arabs that dvv^ell in tents : v/cak as its fiate was,
it
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 93
k was the feat of government, and as fuch a cer- tain degree of reverence attended it. Fidele, the Shekh of Atbara, was reputed by his own people a man of courage ; this had been doubted at Sennaar. Welled HalTan, his father, had been employed by Naffer the fon, late king of Sennaar, in the murder of his father and fovereign Baady, which he had perpetrated, as I have already men- tioned. Such was the ftate of Teawa. Its con- fequence v/as only to remain till the Daveina fliould refolve to attack it, v/hen its corn-fields being burnt and deftroyed in a night by a multi- tude of horfemen, the bones of its inhabitants fcattered upon the earth, would be all its remains, like thofe of the miferable villap:e of Gari2;ana.
I have already obferved, in the beginning of the journey, that the Shekh of the Arabs Nile, who refided in AbylTmia, near Ras el Feel, fmce the expedition of Yafous, had warned me, at Hor-Cacamoot, to diftruft the fair promifes and friendly profeffions of Shekh Fidele, and had, in- deed, raifed fuch doubts in my miind, that, had not the Daveina been parted from Sim Sim, (or the confines of Abyflinia) though there would have been a riik, that if, coming with that tribe, I fhould have been-ill received at Sennaar, I never- thelefs would have travelled with them, rather than by Teawa ; but the Daveina were gone.
The Shekh of Atbara, having no apparent in- tereft to deceive us, had hitherto been a friend as far as words v/ould go, and had promifed every
thing
94 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
thing that remained in his power ; but, for fear of the worft, Nile had given us a confidential man, who was related to the Jehaina and to the prin- cipal Shekh of that tribe. This man conducted an afs, loaded with fait, among the other Arabs of the caravan, and was to fet off to Ras el Feel upon the fir ft appearance of danger, which he was to learn by coming once in two days, or oftner, either to Teawa, where he was no farther known than as being one of the Jehaina, or to the river, - where my Soliman was to meet him at the pools of water ; but his fecret was only known to So- liman, inyfelf, and a Greek fervant, Michael. From leaving Hor-Cacamoot, he had no perfonal interview willi me-, but the night, when we were like to perifh for thiril: in the wood, he had fent me, by Soliman, privately, a horn -full of water, which he had in his goat's fkin, and for which I had rewarded him handfomely in the inftant, glad of that opportuni'ty of confirming him in
his dutv.
This man we fet off to Jibbel Ifriff, as a ftran- ger, with orders not to come to us till the third day ; for we were well perfuaded, whatever the end was to be, that our firft reception would be a gracious one. Indeed we were all of us inclined to belie ve^ that our fafpicions of Fidele Shekh of Atbara, and of his intentions towards us, were rather the effecls of the fear that Shekh Nile had infufcd into us, than any apprehenfion which we could reafonably form after fo many promifes j at
the
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE 55
the fame time, it was agreed on all hands, that? life being at ftake, we could not be too careful in providing means that could, if the worfl happen- ed, at the leaft diminifli our rilk.
CHAP.
96 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
CHAP. V.
Tranfacl'ions ai Teawa — Attempts of the Shekh to de- tain the Author there — Adminijier Medicines to him and his Wives — Various Converfations with hint, and InJIances of his Treachery,
jHlT the paffage of the fmail river, about a quar- ter of a mile from Teawa, we were met by a man on horfeback, cloathed with a large, loofe gown of red camlet, or fom.e fuch ftufF, with a white muilin turban upon his head, and about 20 naked beggarly fervants on foot, with lances, but no iliields ; two iinall drums were beating, and a pipe playing before them. He ftopt upon my coming near them, and affecled a delicacy in ad- vancing to falute me, he being on horfeback, and I upon a mule^ for my horfe was led behind, fad- died and bridled, with, a loofe blue cloth covering him. Solim.an, who nrfl accofted him, told him it w^as X^Vi^ cuftom of Abyilinia not to mount horfes but in time of war, upon w^hich he immediately difmounted, and, upon feeing this, I alighted likewife. Wc ialuted one another very courte-
oufly
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 97
oufly. Ke was a man about feventy, with a very long beard, and of a very graceful appearance. It , was with the utmoft difnculty I could prevail upon him to mount his horfe, as he declared his intention was to walk by the iide of my mule till he entered the town of Teawa. This being over- ruled, by an invincible obilinacy on my part, he was at laft conftrained to mount on horfeback, which he did with an agility only to be expected from a young man of twenty.
Being m.cunted, he fhewed us a variety of paces on horfeback. All this, too, was counted a hu- miliation and politenefs on his part, as playing tricks, and prancing on horfeback, is never done but by young men before their elders, or by meaner people before their fuperiors. We pafTed by a very commodious houfe, where he ordered my fervants to unload my baggage, that being the refidence afligned for me by the Shekh. He ■ and I, witli Solim.an on foot by the fide of my mule, crolTed an open fpace of about live hun- dred yards, where the market is kept ; he pro- tefted a thoufand times by the way, what a ihame it v/as to him to appear on horfeback, vvhen a great man like me was riding on a mule.
A little after, having paffed this fquare, we came to the Shekh's houfe, or rather a collection of houfes, one florey high, built wdth canes j near the ftreet, at entering, there was a large hall of unburnt brick, to vv'hich v/e afcended by four or five ileps. The hall was a very decent one, co- vered with ftraw-niats \ and there was in the mid-
Vol. V. H die
9?
TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
die of it, a chair*, underilood to be the place of the grand fignior. The Shekh himfelf was lit« ting ,on the ground for humility's fake, reading the Koran, or pretending to read it. At our en- try'he fcemed to be furprifed, and made an at- tempt as if to tKq up, vvhich immediately I pre- vented him from doing, holding him dov/n by the hand, which I kiffed.
I fhall not fatiocue the reader with the unin- tereiling converfation that paiTecl at this firil in- terview, lie afieded to admire my fize and ap- parent ftrength, introduced fome loofe hints about Abyillnian wom,en ; and, in general, pretended to blame me for expoiing myfelf to travel in fiich a tountry. In return, I comiplained of the ex- treme fatigue of the journey and heat, the beaiis of prey, the thick woods vvithout ihade, the want of water, and, above all, the poifonous blafcs of the fimoom that had almoil overcome me^ the eflecls of which I was at that inilant feeling. ^
He then blamed himfelf very politely, in a man- ner natural to the Arabs, for having i3affered me to come to him before I had repofed mivfelf, v/hich lie excufed by his defire of feeing fo great a m.an as me. He faid alfo, that he would detain me no longer ; bid me repofe a day or two in quiet and in fafety ; and, upon my riling to go avv^ay, he got up likewife, and holding me by the
hand
f It is the cunom, in all places where .the governor is invefled with fupreme power, to have an ariTi-chair left empty in the middle of the hall y-licre juuice is adminiltcred, vvhich rcprefents the fovereign, andto which cbciiance is xriade.
THE SOUPXE OF THE NILE.
99
hand, faid, " The greatefc part of the dangers you have paffed in the way are, I believe, as yet unknown to you. Your Moor, Yaiine, of Ras el Feel, is a thief worfe than any in Habelh. Se- veral times you efcaped very narrowly, by mere chance, from being cut off, efpecially at Raliiid, by the Arabs Daveina, whom Yaiine had polled there to murder you. But you have a clean heart, and clean hands. God faw their deligns, and protected you ; and, I may fay alfo, on my own part, I was not v/anting."
Being then on my legs for retiring, I returned no anfwer, but the ufual one rUllah Kerim) /. e, God is merciful. Soliman, on the other fide, echoed, '*• Ullah Kerim /" by which I faw he un- derllood me. We both went out, and v/ere con- dueled to the apartment provided by the old man in the red cloak, who miet us on our firil: arrival at the river, and who now w^alked before me till we came to the houfe. It was a very decent one, coniiiMng only of one large room, and Rood clofe upon the river. This iituation was chofen with an intention to keep open the correfpondence v/ith the Sliekh of Nile's fervant, whom we had fent to the Jehaina, and v/ho occafionally was to meet us there ; but Soliman told the old man, it wasneceffary to me, on account of frequent ab- lutions before prayer, which my religion obliged nie to perform. This old man v/as called Hagi Soliman Kaiya, that is, the Shekh's Lieutenant. He had bee^ at Mecca, and had feen Metical Agz^ and knew his poll and confequence j but h^ v^t^s
H 2 a mur-
io<& TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
a murderer and robber like hismafter, a iiarancf dilTembler beyond all conception.
Vv'e had icarce taken pollefilon of our lodging, or thrown off our clothes to put ourfelves at our cafe, when feveral flaves of both fexes^ brought us a quantity of difties of meat from the Shekh, with many flattering compliments and good wiihes. The whole was diipatched very fpeedily, snd fome of our poor companions of the caravan, with the faltj came and helped us very thankfully without ceremony, as is the cuftom of the coun- try. When all was over, I was aftonilhed at one young man, who came and put his mouth clofe to my ear, faying thefe few words in Arabic^ " Seitan Fidele 1 el ^hekh el Atbara Seitan !" /, e» Fidele is a devil ! the Shekh of Atbara is the devil himfelf !
All firangers were now difmiifed, under pre^ tence of our going immediately to repofe. ¥/e had, indeed, much need of reft in our prefent fituation, but ftill more of council, for which we immediately affembled by ourfelves, after having fhut the door. I aiked Soli man what he thouq;ht of the Shekh of Atbara, and his difcourfe. He anfwered, without helitation, " He is a traitor, lias deceived Yaiine, and means you ill.^^ The word, -great 7nan^ fo often applied to me — the abufe beitowed upon Yaiine, whom in his ietter-s he had called his dear brother — -the wondering that I came that way^ after, in his letters, and by his fefvants, he had fo often perfuaded us, while at Ras el Feel, that it was the beil, nay^
the
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. loi
the only road poilible ; all this united top-etherj feemed to leave us no doubt but that we had fallen into a trap, from which our own activity and re- iblutions, under the protection of Providence^ could alone releafe us.
It may be remembered that, fome time before our fetting out from Ras el Feel, I had difpatched a fervant with the Daveina to Sennaar, whom they were to efcort as far as Beyla ; and they had configned him into the hands of Mahomet, Shekli ,of Beyla, who was to forward him to Sennaar ; and this he certainly would have done immedi- ately without delay, but for a misfortune that happened, and entirely difconcerted the plan. The Daveina, on their way to Beyla, had heard that an. encampment of Arabs, (who ufually, at thjs time, occupy the banks of the Kile) had ,come eaftward towards Atbara. Whether the Daveina intended to attack thefe Arabs, or were afraid the Arabs intended to fall upon them, I know not ; but they returned weflward to the left, inilead of coming to Beyla ; they fent my fervant forward, after fome lofs of time, and Mahomet, Shekh of Beyla, had forwarded him to Sennaar. Here, too, he was detained by Shekh Adelan, the firll miiiifter, who happened then not to be at Sennaar, but levying taxes upon the Arabs. This we did not know at that time ; fo every moment we expected his arrival. We were difappointed, likewife, in not finding a fervant of the Shekh of Beyla w^aiting for us, who was to inform us of the iituation of the country about
Bevla
102 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Beyla. This we more wondered at, becaufe be- ing ill of the gravel, he had expreiied himfelf very anxious, in his letter to Yaline, to have fome lime-water, which his fervant was to get from me at Teawa. We did not then know, as we foon afterwards did, that this fervant had been v/aiting for us at Teawa, and tiiat Shekh Fidele had informed him that I was no longer coming by Atbara, but that Coque Abou Barea had fent me, under the care of fome Ganjar horfe ftraight down the Dender from Kuara ; fo that the Shekh cf Beyla did not expect to fee me.
All this being unknown to us, we were in con- ilant expectation of fervants from Sennaar, and the mefias:e from the Shekh of Bevla. But, as we all agreed we v/ere in danger, we refolved, the next day, at meeting Shekh el Nile's fervant, to difpatch him to Ras el Feel, requiring Yaiine to fend fome perfon, as from the king or Ay to Confu, to aik the reafon of our being detained, and to be a witnefs of the Shekh's behaviour and our departure. In. the mean time, we determined to make our interviews with him as few as poili- ble, till fome alliftance fhould arrive. Soliman met the Shekh el Nile's fervant, and gave him the letter he was to carry to Yaiine, explaining himfelf to the Avdh by word of mouth.
On the night of the 24i:h of March, the day after our arrival, our difpatch fet off from Jibbel Ifriif for Ras cl Feci ; where he arrived fafely, but found Yafme was gone to Ayto Confu at Tcher- kin, elf^i lie wculJ c : -^-'.iily have been the firil
to
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 103
to bring us comfort, for he had executed his com million with great fidelity. This day I had ftaid in the houfe, being ill of the iimoom ;' but had fent to Fidele, to let him know I ihould wait upon him next day, having as yet given him no prefent, and being deiirous to knov/ v/hat efTecl that might have.
On the 25th, at four o'clock I waited upon the Shekh accordingly, in his own houfe. Soliman the Moor, Hagi Ifmael the Turk, 'who, beiides, was a fherrifFe, and my Greek fervant, were along with me. I gave the Shekh, for a prefent, a large piece of bkie Indian cotton cloth, with gold flowers, a filk and cotton fafh, about two ounces of civet, two pounds of nutmegs, and ten pounds of pepper. He received the prefents very graciouily to appearance, and laid all the articles down beiide him. I defired that he would dif- patch ine as foon aspoflible, and, for that end, be preparing the camels. He anfwered, the ca- mels werelifteen days journey oft, in the fandy defert, for fear of the flies ; but that the want of them fhould not detain us, if lie had leave from Sennaar, for v/hich he Vv^as to write that night. He added, that they alv/ays were exceedingly te- dious at Sennaar, and both the town and road were, at prefent, in a very unfettled ilate. I told him, I was iurprifed at this, as Had Belal had written to Yaiine and myklf aifo, in a letter (then in my cuiiody) that orders vvxre gone both to him and the Shekh of Beyla , to receive me kindly, and forv/ard me fafely and fpeedily to
Sennaar :
104 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Sennaar : that he himfelf had confeffed this to Yaiine in a letter written to him from Teavva, deliring that I would come fpeedily, as he had every thing ready, which letter I myfelf had read. Fidele feemed in the utmoil furprife at this. He lifted up his hands and eyes, as if I had been tel- ling the greateH: of lies. He faid, '•'^ he never wrote a letter about me to Yafine in his life ; or, at lead, not this year; that it was all a forgery of Yaiine, knowing that I had a quantity of gold with me, to get me out into the defert, to rob and murder me there ; that I might fee he never could receive fucli orders, or elfe it would have been as much as his life was worth, not to have prepared to difpatch me immediately ; but fo far from that, fays he, feek all over the town, and if you find one camel, or any other number, I will make you a prefent of them all, for this is entirelv a forgery of Yafine.^'
Soiim3,n could bear this no longer. He told Fidele, " That it was he who was a forger and a liar, not Yaiine. Will you perfuade me that I do not know of your letter to Yaiine ? Have not your fervants Ibrahim and Nailer lived with us at Ras ei Feel for v^eeks toscether as bearers of thefe letters, v/hich I have feen in their hands be- fore reading, and alio read them afterwards? Was I not fpeaking to them both this morning about the letters ? and are not they juil now waiting without ? If you have a mind to call them in, and queftion them, do it now before me. What do you think Yaiine will fay when he hears
of
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 105
of the fine character you give him ?" " Soliman, replies the Shekh, in a very foft tone of voice, I may have forgotten, in the many letters and af- fairs that pafs through my hands in a day ; but Yafine is my brother, and I will do every thing for him and you that you could wifli : flay only this week, and if my camels do not arrive, I will fend and take them from the Arabs, wiierever they can be found. They are for the king's bu? iinefs, and not mine/* He faid this with fuch an air of candour and iincerity, that it was impofiible to doubt him.
On the 26th, I w^ent in the forenoon to fee the Shekh ; I fat a few minutes with him, then rofc to go away. He then enquired if I had any thing particular to afk ? I anfwered, I had nothing but to pay my compliments to him. He made me a very civil bow, and I took my leave. Next day, the 27th, I flaidin the houfe all day, it being the Shekh's feilival. In the evening, the old man, who was the Kaiya, came to my houfe with com- pliments from the Shekho He told me Fidele was often ill w^itli complaints in the ilomach, and hinted that it was from exceffive drinking. He wdfiied that I would give him fome medicine to vomit him, and reilore his appetite, which he had perfectly loft. The old man added, that this was the way to make the Shekh do what I wiih- ed, fooner than all the prefents in the world. I told him, that he might affure Fidele, that I both could, and would do him that fervice, and for
that
io6 - TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
that^ purpofe would wait upon liim at 6 o'clock next evenin<x.
On the 28th, in the evening I went to the Shekh's houfe with the medicine, and it anfwer- ed all our expectations. I obferved, however, when the cup Vvdth the ipecacuanha was in his hands, that they trembled, and alfo his under lip. He was apparently at that time under fome ap- prehenfion, which his confcience fuggetled, of. Vv'hat it was in my pov^rer to do to him. In thefe countries they have an emetic which they take occaiionally, which operates fo violently, that it often throws them into conyuliions. -What it may be I know not. Some fay it is the fmall feed of a flower like the poppy ; fome, the pith of a tree, after it has been dried and rubbed into a fine pow- der by the hand ; whatever it may be, it is fo fe- vere in proportion to the ftrongeil doze of ipec'a- cuanha, that the latter feemed but like a fport in comparifon. The eafe that v/arm water occafion- ed, v/hich he had never exDerienced before, was fo unexpected, that he could hardly be fatisfied with drinking. After this was over, all v/as thankfuinefs, and promifes of doing whatever I fhould deiire of him, provided I v/ould admini- fler two or three dozes more to him, and, if he forwarded me quickly, leave him fome of the pow- der, with direclions how to take it in my abfence. This I engaged faithfully to do, and we parted apparently the bell: friends in the world. '
The 29th, early in the m.orning, before fun-rife, I had a meiTage from him again by the Kaiya, to
whom
THE SOUPXE OF THE NILE. 107
whom I eave coIFee at the door while I was dref- fing. He told me, the Shekh was wonderfully welL and never in fuch health and fpirits in his life, but defired that I would come to him in the evenins:, for two of his wives were ill of the fame diforder that he had. I excufed myfelf, under pretence that it was Sunday, my feftival, and that I never went out upon any buiinels.
This excufe palled as to tlie Shekh, but at noon a black common flave came down with a mef- faoe from her miitrefTes, who thouo;ht the anfwer given to the Kaiya was a refufal. They faid, they were forry if I had not m^eat to my liking ; that they drell'edit with their own hands every day in the bed manner poilible, but they would alter it in any refpecl: I chofe, if I would inftruct them. I foon found how neceffary it was to content my benefaclrelTes. I explained my anfwer to the Shekh about Sunday ; but aflured them, that on Monday evening I fhould be with them, to vomit them till they were perfectly fatisfied ; in the mean time^ I took a fmall cup, which ! nlled with civet, and fent it by the flave to her miiilirefres ; giving like wife, at the fame time, two handfuls of pepper- for herielf^
On the 30th, in the evening I went to the Shekh's houie accordin<^ to uromife, and v/as car- ried into a large room, where he was fitting alone, fmoaking in an alcove ; I fuppofe meditating fu- ture mifchief, for he had no other apparent em- ployment. He was perfectly fober, however, and feemed rather thoughtful ; was very civil, and
thanked
io8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
thanked me in an unufual Rrain of kindnefs, for the care I had taken of his family. I aflsied him if he was recovered ? He declared, he had never been fo well in his life as fince I had given him the lad vomit ; but that he had received very bad news from Sennaar, that Mahomet Abou Caiee , (the firil minifter) had taken the greateft part of the horfe and troops, and was gone to Kordofan, a very diftant province, furrounded with deferts, where he governed independently ^ and by his manners and difcourfe feemed refolved to with- draw himfelf from his duty to the king; That Shekh Adelan, his younger brother, with the re- maining troops, had left Sennaar, and was en- camped at Aira, a few miles from the town, where he too governed defpotically by his own will ; it being the prerogative of the minifter to have abfolute power as foon as he has left the capi- tal, and put kimfelf at the head of the army, for levying the tax from the Arabs ; but that he had parted with the king on terms very little fhort of rebellion. He then faid, " Since this is the cafe, that Providence has throwm your lot here, that you cannot go forward to Sennaar, nor back to. Abyirmia,if you willrefolve to ftay with me, and turn MahomiCtan, which is the only true religion, 1 wdll give you my daughter for your wife, and you ihali be fecond man in the government qf Teawa ; and as my intention is to go next year to Mecca, you fliall then be appointed to the go- vernment of Atbara, while I go to Sennaar, and
procure an office fitter for an old man. "
Although
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 109
Although I feldom, in my life, was lefs inclin= ed to merriment, I aftecled to break out into a loud fit of laughter ; at \vhich he looked grave 3 feeming to take it ill, and alking me if I laughed at him ? " Exaci:ly fo, faid I, at you ; I was laugh- ing to think that a man fet over a province to go- vern it, like you, fhould yet know fo little of mankind as to imagine one like me capable of turning renegado. You may deny it for fome purpofe of your own, but I know you are well in- formed of the degree of favour and honour in which I v/as whilft in Aby ilinia, where I had eve- ry thir^g that 1 defired. They were people of my religion, and yet I never could confent either to flay with them or m.arry among them.. Wha,t then could be my inducement to marry here, to change my religion, and live in a country where there is nothing but poverty, mifery, famine, fear and dependence ? " " Hearken, fays he, you are a fool ; this country is a thoufand times healthier and fweeter than Abyffinia ; but^ iince you wont take my advice, I fhall fay no more ; come and fee my Harem *." — " Vv^ith all my heart, replied I, as far as that I will go, and fhall be happy to do both you and your family all the good I can."
The Shekh went before me, through feverai apartments, well proportioned, but very meanly furniihed, llovenly, and in bad order. This was the part of the houfe that belonged to himfelf and formed one fide of a fquare. We croiled the
fquare
* The houk where they keep their women.
no TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fquare to the oppofitc licle, where there were fe- veral apartments furniflied in a much better ftyle. The floors w .re all covered with Turkey carpets* In an alcove fat one of his wives upon the ground, with a number of black flaves about her. Her face was uncovered ; the circle made way for me ; fo that, firil putting my hand to my lips, I touch- ed the end of her fingers with the end of mine« In the mean time, the Shekh had brought a fe- cond wife from another apartment, and fet her down befide the firil. They were both women pail the mJddle age, feemed to have a great m.a- ny Haves attending them, but never had been handfome. One of them, I learned afterwards, was d?tUghter to the firil miniiler Shekh Adelan. I thought it neceilary to explain myfelf a little with Fidele. You know, Shekh, faid I, it is not always that you and I agree, and though I have lived many years with people of your religion of all ranks, yet I an^ far from knowing vv^hat are the manners of Atbara ; v/hat will offend you or thcni, or what not ; for, as I have no view but your good and theirs, I would net expofe myfeii to any ill ufage to which a m.iilake of your cuf- tdms may fabje(5l me. In fliort, I mAiil af^ thefe ladies a number of queftions, which, if you choofe to hear, you may, but no perfon'elfe m.uft, as is- the cuftom of my country." " What has he to do with us and our phyiician ? faid the eldeft of the tv/o ; all his buiinefs is to pay you money when you have made us Vv^ell." " What would become of him, fays Adelan's daughter, if we were to be
ill?
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 1 1 1
ill ? he would ilarve for want of people to make ready his meat/' — Aye, and his drink too, fays the other, which he is fonder of than his m.eat. " No, no, fays Shekh Fidele, in perfect good hu- mour, we know you. Hakim ; you are not like us ; aik them all the queflions you pleafe, I nei- ther wiili nor intend to hear them ; I hear too much of them every day againll my will, and on- ly wiiii to God you would cure them or make them dumb altogether, and then they will not teaze me with their illnefs aity longer ; a lick wo- man is plague fuflicient for a devil."— ^* Then, clear the room, faid I, in the firft place, of all thefe idle women-fervants ; only leave two or three of the fteadieft flaves to ferve their miilreffes." He* did not feem at a lofs how to do this, for he took up a fhort wiiip, or fwitch, which lay. at hand, and kappy were they who got firil to the door. I law among thefe a genteel female figure, covered from head to foot, Vv^hom Fidele pulled in with his hand, after he had puihed the others out of the door, faying, "Come in, Aifcach j" and im- mediately after this he went away.
I v/as very feniible that I was playing a farce upon which a very great deal depended. Though in thefe countries the daughters of miniilers and great man are given to inferiors, this is only with a view of having them provided for ; for they are fpies upon their hulbands, and keep up the con- iequence of their birth in their huiband's houfe even after they are married, and this I underftood was precifely the cafe with Adclan's daughter.
Notwithftanding
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Notwithftanding the badcharacler I had of Fldele, I knew he duril not rob me, without murdering me alfo ; and I was lure he did not dare to do ei- ther, if it was once known that I was arrived in the dominions of Sennaar ; and this his wife could inform Adelan her father of, whenever fhe plea- fed. This was then the firft ftep towards fafety.
I fhall not trouble my reader with a repetition of my medical inquiries, nor the complaints of ladies, which are properly fecrets with me, though at the diilance of Atbara. The ipecacuanha ope- ration gave high fatisfaciiion. It was now hap- pily terminated ; but, whilft it was adminifter- ing, i obferved the figure^ who till then appear- ed covered, had unveiled her face and head down to her fhoulders ; and foon after one of the flaves, her attendant, as in play, pulled off the remain- ing part of the veil that covered her. I w^as afco- niilied at the light of fo much beauty. Her hair,, which w^as not woolly, but long, and in great quantity, was braided and twdfted round like a crown upon the top of her head, ornamented with beads, and the fmall white Guinea-lhells, commonly know^n here by the name of blacka- moor's teeth. She had plain rings of gold in her ears, and four rows of gold chain about her neck, to which was hung a number of fequines pierc. ed ; the reft of her drefs was a blue lliift, which hung loofely about her, and covered her down to her feet, though it w^as not very rigoroufly nor very clafcly difpofed all below her neck. She was the tallell of the middle fize, and not yet fifteen
years
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 113
years of age ; her whole features faultlefs ; they might have ferved alone for the ftudy of a pain- ter all his life, if he was in fearch of abfolute beau- ty. Her mother being an Arab of the tribe of Jehaina, her complexion was a dark brown. Such was the beautiful Aifcach, dausfhter of the eldeft of the ladies that I was then attending.
Neither iicknefs nor medicine could prevent thofe who were prefent from difcovering plainly how exceedingly I was difconcerted. Adelan's daughter faid to me. You will think nothing of the women in Atbara, after fo long a ilay in Abyffinia ; but the women in Europe, they fay, are fo white, that they are the handfomeft of all. I never was lefs perfuaded of that truth than at prefent, faid I ; and I fee perfectly you obferve it. " Aye, aye, fays her mother, and fo we do ; if Aifcach was ill, you would take better care of her than of either of us." " Pardon me, faid I, Ma- dam ; if the beautiful Aifcach was ill, I feel I fliould myfelf be fo much affected as not to be able to attend her at all."
Aifcach made the mod: gracious inclination with her head, to (liew ihe was perfectly feniible of the compliment. The women laughed out aloud. " Send for Yafine and your horfe from Ras el Feel, cries a voice behind me laughing, but fpeaking perfect good Amharic ; take her a- way, and carry her back v/ith you to Abyffinia, ril go with you with all my heart, and fo will ftie, I fwear to^you. " I turned with furprife to the perfon that fpoke the language, which I had
Vol. V. I not
114 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
not heard fpoken of late. " She is a poor Chrif» tian flave, lays the eldeft of Fidele's wives, taken by the Jehaina when the Mek Baady was defeated in his return to Sennaar ; fhe is a foolilh, but merry creature, as you fee." All our diet and regimen being fettled, I took my leave, and was attended to the door by the Abyffinian flave and Aifcach, who feemed to be very much her friend* When fhe came to the outer door, £he covered herfelf again with her veil, from head to foot, as before, faying, \n a low voice. Shall we not fee you to-morrow ?
On the 31 ft of March, Fidele again inlifted up- on undergoing another experiment of the ipeca- cuanha. I waited upon him at the fame hour as before, curious to know what he would fay to me about his wives. Upon my inquiring after them, he only anfwered, that they were well ; and w^hen coffee was brought, before I went away, told me, that he knew perfeclly well, from Ras el Feel, that, when I fet out from thence, I had difpofed, in various boxes and chefts, (which I pretended were inftrum.entsj 2000 ounces of gold^ befides variety of cloth of gold, and other valua- ble things for prefents ; and as all this was now in his power, he could not think me mad enough to refufe him 500 piaftres, which were only 50 of thefe ounces 1 carried with me ; that, if I gave them to him civilly, he v/ould forw^ard me to Sennaar in two days ; if not, I was in his hands^ and he could eafily take the w^hole by force, and
after difpofe of me as he pleafed.
Well
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. iis
Well done ! out with it ! faid I ; this is but what I knew long to be in your heart. But let me fet you right ; I have not three ounces of gold in all my poffeffion. It is of no ufe to me in my country ; take all my cafes and boxes, and fearch them ; the gold that you find there I free- ly give you, and Vvdthout referve. As for the cloth of gold, v/hich I have, it is a prefent from the king of Abyffinia to the king of Sennaar, to be delivered with his letter. I have likewife a prefent to Shekh Adelan, with a letter to him ; and fome other trifles for Sennaar, prefents to people in government : look at them ; if you think they are too great, apply to your own ufe what part of them you pleafe, and account with the king and Adelan for what you take from them, with your reafon for fo doing. The little money I may want at Sennaar, Hagi Belal, Me- tical Asfa's fervant from Mecca, will furniih me with, and, upon my letter, will take pa.yment for the amount from my countrymen on board the Eaft India (hips at Jidda. As for force, do not deceive yourfelf ; if all thofe cafes were gold it never would be in your pov/er to open one of them. Do not think that I am a girl or a child ; confider the danger and difficulties I have paffed^ under God's protection only, and by my own force and courage : I am well armed, and have brave men about me, fo try your force when you pleafe. I dare fay you will keep yourfelf out of danger, to give an account of your brave exploit to the king of Sennaar afterwards." I then arofe,
I 2 2ind
ii6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and faid, " Good evening." The Shekh called after me to ftay. I faid, " Another time ;" and immediately left_him.
We had hitherto been fupplied plentifully with provifions from the Shekh's houfe once a-day. When I came home at night, I found that after Magrib, which is after fun-fet, a large ftore had been ferit by the ladies from the Shekh's houfe, as acknowledgments for the attention I had paid them ; but no particular meffage, except than that they had been exceedingly well after their medicines, and hoped I would not abandon them, but fee them again. A Greek fervant of mine, who knew^ perfectly their cuftoms, had anfwered, that 1 certainly would wait upon them when the Shekh fhould defire me fo to do.
The weather was extremely hot, and people, avoiding funfhine of the day, generally fat up the whole of the night, enjoying the only hours when it was pollible to breathe freely. It was about ele- ven o'clock at night, wdien the old Kaiya, whom 1 never faw but upon thefe occafions, came to me for coffee, of which he drank at leaft twenty difh- es every vilit. He appeared at firil very mode- rate, and, as he pretended, a friend. But im- mediately afterwards, being feated, and aiTuming a new kind of air and tone of voice, he reproved me roundly for my behaviour to the Shekh that day. He extolled him highly for his generoiity, courage, and his great intereft at Sennaar from his father's merits, and from his having married Shekh Adelan's daughter. He faid, it was the
greatefl
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 117
greateft prefumption, in a fet of infidels like us, to behave in the manner we had done to Fidele that day. " Hagi Soli man, anfwered I, you are an old man ; if years have not given you wifdom, your journey to Mecca, and converfation with perfons of all nations there, fhould at leaft have taught you an appearance of it, which, at this time, you have not. I am here, immediately un- der the protection of the flierriiFe of Mecca, the chief of your religion, and Metical Aga his mi- nifter. I have letters from the king of Abyllini- a to your king of Sennaar, requefting only, un- der the faith of nations, to pafs through your country in my way to Cairo, to rejoin Ali Bey, whofe phyiician I am, and in whofe hands at leaft three thoufand fubjecls of Sennaar, and their ef- fecls, are at this moment. I fay to vou now, as I did to your mafter in the morning, that he can- not either rob or m.urder me at Teawa without all your nation being refponfible for it, wherever they ihall go. But i aai not a ftieep, or a lamb, to be fpoiled of my goods, or robbed of my life, without defending myfelf to the utmoft 5 and i tell you, for your proper inftruclion, that thel'c are probably now at Sennaar, people from the king of Abyilinia, complaining of my being de- tained here, and demanding juilice.
He feemed to pay no attention to this threat. He did not think it poffible that I could have had any communication with Ras el Feel iince I came to Teawa, but declared, that, as my particular friend, he had calmed the Shekh's wrath, and
obliged
ii8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
obliged him to promife, that, for 2000 piaftres, he would difpatch me in two days to Sennaar* Indeed Hagi Soli man, faid I, I have not 20 piaf- tres in the world to give either him or you, nor would I rive them if I had them. The Shekh may take ail that 1 have by force, and is welcome to try the experiment. You, as his friend and foldier, may command the party, if you pleafe ; but I am refolved, were he wiUing, never to leave Teawa till I depart under the conduct of another man than one of your or of Shekh Fidele's chu- fmg. Upon my fayirig this, he arofe, fliook the "* bofom of his cloak, and faid, he was tbrry for it ; but he wafhed his hands of all the confequences.
Immediately after this we fhut our doors ; and our fire-arms being cleaned, loaded, and primed, we refolved to abide the iiTue of this bad affair in the bed manner poffible, and live or die toge- ther. One thing-, however, diverted us : One of the large blunderbuffes being accidentally laid acrofs the door, this veteran foldier ftarted back at the light of it, and, although the muzzle was pointed h.x from him, would not enter till the piece was removed, and placed at a coniiderabie diilance from him.
As we faw things were growing to a cviiis, we became every hour more impatient for the arrival of relief, either from Ras el Feel or Sennaar. On the id of April came a fervant from the Shekh of Bevla, and delivered a meiTagre to Fidele : \v hat it was I know not ; but about noon he came to inquire after us, and pay us a vifit.
All
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 119
All this time Fidele had kept our arrival at Teawa a fecret from the Shekh of Beyla ; but the people, who frequented the market of Teawa, having told their governor that they had feen ftrangers there, he all at once fufpecled the truth, and difpatched a confidential fervant to Fidele, under a fhew of bufinefs, to inquire whether we were thofe ftrangers. An explanation immedi- ately followed upon his coming to my houfe, and cfpecially concerning the meflage the Shekh of Beyla had received from the Shekh of Atbara, that we were gone by Kuara down the Dendar. He faid, that his mafter either had fent, or in- tended to fend^ advice of this to my fervant at Sennaar, who, expecling us no longer by Teawa, would neither come himfelf, nor feek a king's fervant to condud us from hence, but would feek meafures for our fafety the other way, or wait at Sennaar, expecting our arrival daily ; for the way from Kuara was through a number of outlawed, or banditti Arabs, fo that it was not in the power. of the government of Sennaar, if ever fo v/ell in- clined, to conduct us one ftep in fafety on the road till we iliould be within two days journey of Sennaar. The fervant therefore propofed, that he Ihould return inftantly to Beyla, (as he did that nio;ht) and that his mafter ftiould fend a mef- fenger on a dromedary exprefs to Sennaar, to in-^ form Hao[i Belal of our iituation, and nrocure immediate relief. He promifed further, that his mafter iliould fend a Moullah, (or man of extra- ordinary holinefs and learning) in whofe prefence
Shekh
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Shekh Fidele would not dare to proceed to e:jc- tremities, as this was a man univerfally efteemed, and of great weight and reputation at Sennaar, both with Abou Calec and Adelan, as well as throughout Atbara. .
I muft here obviate a very reafonable objection which may be made by my reader : — " Why, when you knew your fafety depended upon the government of Sennaar, when you was arrived at Teawa, did you not take the firft opportunity of notifying it to Fidele, that you had already fent to acquaint your correfpondent at Sennaar that you had fet out for that place ?" I anfwer. That to do this had been many times in agitation among us, but was alw^ays rejected. It was thought a dangerous meafure to leave a man like Fidele, the only perfon who had feen us, to give us any character and defcription he pleafed, who^ from the connection and ccrrefpondence he m-uft have in that capital, and the confidence necefla- rily placed in him, as governor of a frontier pro- vince, might fo far prejudice the minds of that credulous and brutal people, by mifreprefenting us, as either to get orders to cut us off upon our journey, or procure us a fate iimilar to that of M du Roule, the French envoy, after our arriv- ing in that capital. It was by the goodnefs of Providence alone that we were re drained from adopting that meafure, often confidered as the moft advifeable, but which, we fmce have cer- tainly known, would have ended in our deftruc- tion.
No thins:
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. ' 121
Nothing material pafTed on the 3d of April, their feftival day ; but on the 4th no meat was fent us. However, on Sunday the 5th it was brought rather in larger proportion than before, and we fpent the whole day in conjeduring what was become of our fervants, and of the Moullah whom the Shekh of Beyla's fervant had promifed us. On the 6th the Kaiya came, and, without ceremony, told me that the Shekh had heard I wanted to efcape to Beyla, in which journey I lliould certainly perifh, and therefore he had taken my horfe from me, which was in a ftable at fome diftance. From this time we 2:ot our victuals verv fparingly. On the 7th he fent me word, that I Ihould bring him a vomit the day after, which I promifed to comply with. It was very plainly feen Beyla's fecret was not kept, and to this we attributed the delay of the Moullah ; but nothing could comfort us for the want of an anfwer from Ras ei Feel.
On the 8th, in the evening, a little before fix o'clock, when I was making ready to go to the Shekh, a meiTage came, that he was bufy, and could not fee me ; with which, for a time, I was very well pleafed. About ten, arrived a naked, very ill-looking fellow, more like an executioner than any other fort of man, with a large broad- fword in his hand, and feemingly very drunk. He faid he was one of the Shekhs of Jehaina, and in a little time became extremely infolent. He firft demanded coffee, which was given him, then a new coat, then fome civet, and, laft
of
122 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
of ail, drawing his fword, that we flioiild in- ftantly provide him with a new fcabbard, his own being but a piece of common leather, which he threw with a kind of indignation down upon the floor. I'ill that time I had been writina: thefe very memoirs, at leaft the journal of the day. I was not any way afraid of one drunkard, but laid down my pen, wondering where this infolence w^as to end. Before I had time to fpeak a word, I heard my old Turk, the fherriffe, Hagi Ifmael, fay, " You are of the Jehaina, are you ? then I am of the Daveina ;" and with that he caught the ilranger by the throat, taking his fword from him, which he threw out of the houfe, after caft- ing the owner violently upon the floor. The fel- low crept out upon all-four, and, as foon as he had picked up his fword, attempted again to en- ter the houfe, which Soliman perceiving, fnatched his own f[iort, crooked fword, from a pin where it hung, and ran readily to meet him, and would very fpeedily have made an end of him, had I not cried out, " For God's fake, Soliman, don't hurt him ; remember where you are." Indeed, there w^as little reafon for the caution ; for Vv^hen the Arab obferved a drav/n fv/ord in the Turk's hand, he prefently ran avv^ay towards the town, crying, Uilah ! Ullah ! Ullah ! which was, God! God ! God ! an exclamation of terror, and we faw no more of him ; whilft, inflead of a new fcabbard, he left his old one in the houfe. Seeing at once the cowardice and malice of our enemies, we were now apprehenlive of hre, things were
come
T?1E SOURCE OF THE NILE. 123
come to fuch an extremity ; and as our houfe was compofed of nothing but dry canes, it feemed the only obvious way of deftroying us.
On the Qth, in the morning I fent Soliman with the fcabbard to Fidele, and a grievous com- plaint againft the fuppofed Shekh of the Jehaina for his infolence the night before. Shekh Fidele pretended to be utterly ignorant of the whole, made light of what had palTed, and faid the fellow was a fool. But a violent altercation took place between him and my fervant black Soliman, who then told him all his mind, threatening him with Yafine's immediate vengeance, and aiTuring him he was, before this, fully inform.ed of his behavi- our. They, however, both cooled before parting. Fidele only recommended to Soliman to perfuade me to give him 2000 piaftres, without which he ^ fwore I never fhould go alive out of Atbara. So- liman, on the other hand, declared, that I was, a man that fet no value upon money, and therefore carried it not about v/ith m.e, otherwife I ihould not refufe what he defired, but warned him to think well before he uttered fuch expreffions as he now had done.
In the courfe of converfation, as Soliman told me, the Shekh gave him feveral hints, that, if he would agree with him., and help to rob and murder me, he ihould ihare the booty with him and it never would be known. But Solim.an pretended not to underiland this, alw'ays alluring him that I was not the man he took me for ; and that, except the king's prefeat^ all I had was brafs,
iron.
124 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
iron, and glafs bottles, of no value to any but myfelf, who only knew how to ufe them. They then finifhed their difcourfe ; and he defired So- liman to tell me, that he expected meat the ufual hour of 6 o'clock to-morrow evening, which was Friday the loth.
This feemed to me to be an extraordinary ap- pointment, becaufe Friday is their feilival, when they eat and drink heartih^, nor did I ever re- member any of them take medicine upon that day. But v^ith Fidele all was feftival, not even their annual folemn faft of Ramadan did he ever keep, but was univerfally known to be an unbe- liever, even in what was called his own religion. I had ilill this further objeclion to wait upon him at night, that he had gone fo far as to folicit So- liman to aiTiii: him in m.urdering me. But I con- lidered at lail, that we could not efcape from his hands; and that the only way to avoid the danger was to brave it. Providence, indeed, feemed all alons: to have referved our deliverance for our own exertions, under its direction, as all the ways we had taken to get relief from others had hitherto, in appearance at leaft, mifcarried. How- ever, it was refolved to go armed, for fear of the worft ; but to conceal our weapons, fo as to give no umibrage. I had a fmall Brefcian blunderbufs, about 11 inches in the barrel, which had a joint in the ftock, fo that it folded double. It hung by an iron hook to a thin belt under my left arm, clofe to my iide, quite unperceived, like a cutlafs. I likewife took a pair of piftols in my girdle, and
my
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 125
niy knife as ufual. All thefe were perfectly co- vered by my burnoofe ; fo that, with a little at- tention, when I fat down, it was impoflible to difcover my having any weapons about me. Hagi Ifmael the Turk, Soliman my fervant, and two other Moorifli fervants, took alfo their fire arms, fmall and great, and fwords, along with them. We all went to the houfe of the Shekh a little before feven o'clock in the evenino^. I entered the back door into the fquare where the women's houfe was ; but declined going fo far as their apartment without leave, turning to the left hand into the lide of the fquare where he ufually ftaid. I was furprifed to meet but one fervant, a black boy, in the whole houfe, and he carried me to the Shekh, my fervants remaining at the outer- door.
Fidele was fitting in a fpacious room, in an alcove, on a large broad fofa like a bed, with India curtains gathered on each fide into feftoons. Upon feeing the boy, in a very furly tone he called for a pipe ; and, in much the fame voice, faid to me, " Vv^hat ! alone ?" I faid, '^ Yes, Vv^hat v/ere his commands with me ?" I faw he either was, or af- fected to be drunk, and which ever was the cafe, I knew it would lead to mifchief ; I therefore repented heartiiv of havingy come into the houfe alone.
After he had taken two whiffs of his pipe, and the Have had left the room, " Are you prepared ? fays he ; have you brought the ;2^^c7)''z// along with you?" I wifhed to have occafion tojoin Soliman,
and
126 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and anfwered, " My fervants are at the outer door, and have the vomit you wanted." " D — n you and the vomit too, iays he with great pallion, I want money, and not poifon. Vx^here are your piaRres?" " I am abad perfon, faid I, Fidele, to furniih vou with either. 1 have neither monev nor poifon ; but I advife you to drink a little warm water to clear your fiomach, cool your head, and then lie down and compofe yourfelf, I will fee you to-morrow morning." I was going out. " Hakim, fays he, infidel, or devil, or whatever is your name, hearken to what I fay. Coniider where you are ; this is the room where Mek Baady, a king, was flain by the hand of my father : look at his blood, where it has ftained the floor, which never could be wafhed out. I am informed you have 20,000 piailres in gold with you ; either give me 2000 before you go out of this chamber, or you fhall die ; I will put you to death with my own hand." Upon this he took up his fword, that was lying at the head of his fofa, and, drawing it Vvith a bravado, threw the fcabbard into the middle of the room ; and, tucking the fleeve of his fhirt above his elbow like a butcher, faid, '^ I wait your anfwer."
I now ftept one pace backwards, and dropt the burnoofe behind me, holding the little blunder- bufs in my hand, without taking it off the belt. I faid, in a firm tone of voice, " This is my an Aver : I am not a man, as I have told you before, to die like a beaft by the hand of a drunkard ; on vour life, I charge you, llir not from your
fofa."
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 127
Ibfa/' I had no need to give this injundlion ; he heard the noife which the doling the joint in the flock of the blunderbufs made, and thought I had cocked it, and was inftantly to fire. He let his fword drop, and threw himfeif on his back on the fofa, crying, " For God's fake, Hakim, I was but jelling." At the fame time, with all his might, he cried, " Brahim ! Mahomet ! El coom ! £1 coom*!"—" If one of your fervants approach me, faid I, that inftant I blow you to pieces ; not one of them fhali enter this room till they bring in my fervants with them ; I have a number of them armed at your gate, who will break in the inflant they hear me fire.
The women had come to the door. My fer- vants were admitted, each having a blunderbufs in his hand and piftols at his girdle. ¥/e were now greatly an overmatch for the Shekh, who fat far back on the fofa, and pretended that all he had done was in joke, in which his fervants joined, and a very confufed, defultory difcourfe followed, till the Turk, fherriffe Ifmael, happened to ob- ferve the Shekh's fcabbard of his fword thrown upon the floor, on which he fell into a violent fxt of laughter. He fpoke very bad Arabic, mixed with Turkifh, as I have often obferved. He en- deavoured to m.ake the Shekh underlland, that drunkards and cowards had more need of the fcabbard than the fword ; that he, Fidele, and the other drunkard that came to our houfe two or
three
* El coom, that h, all his fervants„
I2S TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
three nights before, who faid he was Shekh of the Jehaina, were jufl; pofTeiTed of the fame por- tion of courage and infolence.
As no good could be expected from this ex- poflulation, I ftopt it, and took my leave, delir- ing the Shekh to go to bed and compofe himfelf, and not try any more of thefe experiments, which would certainly end in his iliame, if not in his punifhment. He made no anfwer-, only wifhed us good night*
i;jl AP.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 129
CHAP. VL
TranfaBions at Teawa continued — A Moullah and Sherriffe arrive from Beyla — Neivs from Ras el Feel and Sennaar — An Eclipfe of the Moon — Leave Teawa*
We went to the door, through the feveral apartments, very much upon our guard, for there was no perfon to light us out, and we were afraid of fome treachery or ambufli in the antichamber and dark pafTages ; but we met nobody; and were, even at the outer gate, obliged to open the door ourfelves. Without the gate there were about twenty people gathered together, but none of them with arms ; and, by the half words and ex- preflions they made ufe of, we could judge they were not the Shekh's friends. They followed us for a little, but difperfed before we arrived at our houfe. Soliman, my fervant^ told me by the way, that the Pvloullah was arrived, and that the Shekh of Beyla's fervant, who had come with him had been at my houfe ever iince I went to Fidele's. Accordingly we found him ilill there, and ex- VoL. V. - K plained
I50 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
plained to him, what had happened, and the great diftrefs we had been in from the Moullah's not arriving fooner, as alfo from receiving no meffage either from Sennaar or Ras el Feel. He told us, the reafon of our fervants not joining us was the falfe information his m after the Shekh of Bey la had received from Fidele ; that we were coming by the Dender, and not by Teawa, as already mentioned. He now advifed us to come up, and fhew ourfelves in the morning to the Moullah, who would be fitting with Shekh Fidele, ad- miniftering juftice ; but to take no particular no- tice of him, and only obferve to what his difcourfe pointed, and he would bring us word if any thing more was neceiiary.
I recommended to this fervartt of the Shekh of Beyla that he ihould tell the Moullah that he was not to expect I was to open my baggage here, but that I was a man who underftood perfedly the value of a favour done i^e, and ihould not be in his debt longer than arriving at Beyla, which I wifhed to reach as foon as poilible ; nothing can be quicker than thefe people are on the fmalleft hint given ; we feparated, fully fatisiied that we were now a fufficient match for the Shekh, even at his own weapons.
Ever lince the adventure of the Shekh of the Jehaina, one of us had kept guard, the door being open every night for fear of fire, and it was my turn that night, a poft that I never declined, for the fake of good example ;, but my fpirits were fo exhaufted this day, that I- gave the old Turk
plenty
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. j^j
plenty of coffee and tobacco to undertake, as he did with great willingnefs, the office of that night for me. I went to bed, and fell prefently into a profound fleep, from which 1 was awakened, a little before midnight, by a meffage from the la- dies, my patients, in the Shekh's houfe, fent by the black ilave that had fpoken in the Abyffinian language to me while I was attending her miflrefs. They advifed me to be upon my guard, for the Shekh was abfolutely refolved to take a feyere re- venge upon us all: That after we had left him that evening, an exprefs arrived from the lov/er part of Atbara, giving him an account that Shekh Ibrahim, a great man at Sennaar, and favourite of Adelan the prime miniiler, while he was em- ployed in gathering the taxes from -the Arabs, had fought with the tribe called Shukorea, fome- where eaft of Sennaar ; that he had been com-> pletely beaten, and many of his people killed ; as alfo, that Shekh Ibrahim and his two fons were v/ounded ; that Shekh Fidele had immediately fent back v/ord, that he had then with him a fur- geon and phyiician, meaning me, who could, upon occaiion, even bring a dead man to life, but that I would never confent to come to him unlefs I was forced ; therefore, if he would dif- patch a fufficient number of armed men, to help him to furprife me in the night, he would con- duel the execution of that fcheme, and would fend me to him in irons. He faid I w^as an infidel, a white man from Abyffinia, and had feveral ftout people with me expert in fire-arms, (of which I
K 2 had
132 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
had a number,) who would be of great ufe to him in fubduing the Arabs. They affured me, how- ever, of their friendfhip, and begged me to con- lider what I had to do in time, for many wild men would be poured in upon me, who would not fail to kill me if I relifted.
I returned my moil humble thanks to my kind informants ; with a fmall gratification of civet to the two elder ladies, and a feparate portion to the beautiful Aifcach, affuring them I fhould not fail to profit by any advice they fhould give me. After this I again fell into a found fleep, which continued till morning ; and, though my affairs had not the mofl: profperous appearance, I felt a calmnefs of mind to which I had been utter- ly a flranger ever fince I had left Ras el Feel. My fervants awakened me in the morning of the I ith ; I drank coffee, and drelTed, and took along with me Soliman and Ifmael, without arms in our hands, but having knives and piftols in our girdles, to £hew that we had lived in fear. ,
The MouUah's name was Welled IVIeftah, or the fon of interpretation^ or explanation. He was reputed to have attained fuch a decree of holinefs as to work miracles, and, more than onc€ in his life, to have been honoured with the converfation of angels and fpirits, and at times, to have called the devil into his prefence, and reproved him. He was a man below the middle fize, of a very dark complexion, and thin beard, feemingly pafi: fixty, hollow-eyed, and very much emaciated. If holy, we could not fay he was the beauty of
holinefs
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 133
liolinefs. I underftood, afterwards, he was much addided to the ufe of opium, to the effecls of which he probably was indebted for his conver- fation with fpirits. He had brought with him. another faint, much younger and robufter than himfelf, who had been feveral times at Mecca, and had feen Metical Aga, but did not know him. He had feen like wife the Englifli ihips at Jidda, and knew the name of the nation, but nothing more. He was a IherrifFe, (that is, a defcendant of Mahomet) a degree of nobility much refpedied among the Arabs, diflinguiihed by wearing a green turban. The Daveina, when they burnt all the country between Teawa and Beyla, faved this man's houfe, effects, and crop, in veneratior\ of his fanclity. Thefe two were fitting on each fide of Shekh Fidele, and before him fi:cod two black flaves holding each a monftrous long broad- fword. I approached thefe powers, ecclefiaftical and civil, with great compofiare, as if nothing had happened ; but Ifrnael, the Turk, had almoft ipoiled my gravity, for., feeing the fwords in the men's hands before Fidele, he faid, in his barba- rous language, loud enough to be heard, " O, ho, they have got their fcabbards upon their fwords to-day.^'
Fidele feemed to have a very ferene counte* pance, till we approached nearer, when, feeing the pifcols in our girdles, he appeared rather dif- compofed, and probably he thought the blunder- bufs was not far ofFj I made him, however, a bow, and faook him by the hand j I likewife
mad^
134 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
made another bow to their two holinelTes. As people of that fanclity feldom chufe to have, even their cloaths, touched by unbelievers in public, I made no further advance towards them. The flierriffe no fooner faw Ifniael's turban, than he got up, took him in his arms, and, as he was an older man than himfelf, though all in rags, kifTed his forehead with great refpecl. This was returned by Hagi Ifmael, lirft kiffing his forehead and then his hand ; after which the Moullah did the fame, as I thought with rather lefs ceremony. Ifmael gave a very flight Mutation of Salama to the Shekh, and v/e all fat down.
" Brother, fays the flierriite to Ifmael, you feem a ftranger in this country." " I am a Turk, anfwered Ifmael, born in Anatolia, a janizary of All Eey at Cairo." " He came, fays Shekh Fidele, to Habeih, with their Kafr, the Abuna or great pried, and is returning to Cairo with that white man, who is phyfician to Ali Bey." " Kafr there, or Kafr here, continued Ifmael (who did but half underftaiid what wasfaid) the greateft of allKafrs (that is Infidel) is, I believe, in Teawa. -I do not think there is one MuiTulman in this curfed place." " Is this the Frank, fays the Moullah, whofe fervant brought letters to the Shekh of Beyla fome weeks ago, and was forwarded to Sennaar ?" '' No, fays Fidele, he does not know the Shekh of Beyla." " I am fure, fays the Moullah, that, fuch a day, vi^hen I was at Sennaar, there was a talk of a m,an of this kind, whofe fervant was at Aira with Shekh Adelan, and had
orders
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. , 135
orders to come hither with a fervant of his, and one from the king ; and I am fure, upon reflec- tion, continued the Moullah, this muft be the man." " Shekh, fays he, turning to me, Twho fat lilent, overjoyed at the train I faw the affair taking) did you come from Habefli ? have you letters for Sennaar ?" " I came from Habefii, re- plied I, with letters to the king of Sennaar ; like- wife letters to him from the fherriffe of Mecca, and from Ali Bey of Cairo, (you are welcome to fee them all,} yet, contrary to faith, obferved even in Pagan nations, I am here detained by Shekh Fidele, who laft night attempted to mur- der me in his own houfe, becaufe I would not pay him 2000 piaftres." Shekh Fidele's face turn- ed pale ; he could fcarcely utter, " That is not true." " As that book is the word of God, fays Ifmael, (pointing to the Koran, lying in the fher- riffe's lap) it is every w^ord true. Look upon my turban, (fays he to Fidele) do you call me a liar ?" Fid. " I did not call you a liar, only that Chrif- tian lied." If?n, '• I fay, that every word he fpokc is truth, or I am no true believer. Was not your fword drawn, and your fcabbard lying on the floor, when I entered the room ? Was there any one prefent but him and you ? Whom did you draw your fword upon ?'* " Pure merriment for a little amufement, fays Fidele, turning to the MouUah, I was diverting myfelf with the Chrif- tian, who came to give me medicines." " The diveriion, I fancy, vv-as over on your part, fays Soliman, my fervant, Vv^hen you threw away your
fword.
156 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fword, after drawing it, and called upon all your fervants for affiftance. Were not your women at the door upon my entering it ?" Fid, " Would you have had me Ihot in my own houfe by an in- fidel ? Did he not prefent a piftol at me ?" If?n, " Lord ! Lord ! he uas only diverting himfelf, too ? Did not you fee that ? You fliould have gone on with your merriment : — What flopt you ?" " Look you, Shekh, faid I, your inward thoughts are feen by me. Did not you fend two melTengers to Shekh Ibrahim in Atbara that very night, within thefe twelve hours, deiiring him. to take m.e by force, while afleep, to heal his wounded men ? Was this amufement, too ? Be- \vare in time, for every thought in your heart is known to m_e as foon as it is formed."
The iherriffe muttered to himfelf, " Hakim v'Eref — he is a learned man ; he knows thefe things." " Shekh Ibrahim is returned to Sen- naar, fays the Moullah, that is the reafon why he fhould make hafte, and ail this that has paiTed is very improper. If a man diverts himifeif with dravv'n fwords, is he not likely, when angry, to kill ? this ought not to be ; fend the man away ; vou can 2:et camels from the Tehaina. Men like him have no money. There are many of them, at all times and places, v/andering over the face of the earth, and will be fo till Hagiuge Ma- giuge* come ; they are Derviihes, lludy the herbs
and
* By this they mean Gog and Magog. V/e fliall after fee their belief concernirj<» them.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 137
and the water, and cure difeafes." " God blefs the truth ! faid I ; there it is. I am a Dervilh, a poor, but an innocent man." The Moullah feemed to take credit to himfelf for all this learn- ing. " I faw, fays the fherrifFe, a number of his countrymen in large fhips from the Indies, when I was at Jidda ; they are called Inglefe." '' They are brave men, fays Ifmael, and came firfl from Turkey. Their country is called Caz Dangli to this day. I have feen it, and am fure no man would hurt Yagoube that knew him." Fid. " So, Yagoube is his name ; the firft time I kney/ it." Moid. " Yagoube el Hakim ; novv^ I remember it perfectly. Ali Tchelebi, Mahomet Abou Calec's factor, is ill of an enchantment from an enemy ; his bowels are out of order ; he it was that afked me if fuch a man Vv^as yet come to Beyla. They furely exped that you fhould forward him to Sennaar. True, Yagoube el Hakim, that was his name." Fid. " Ke Ihall go next week, iince it is fo, if I can but get camels." Upon this werofe, feeing other people coming in. When I took hold of the Shekh's hand at going away, he afked me, in apparent good humour, " Well, Yagoube, are we friends now?" I anfwered him, in the moil complacent tone of voice poilible, " Sir, I never was your enemy ; fo far otherwife, that my only anxiety now is, left your behaviour may bring upon you powerful adverfaries, before whom you are not able to ftand. The ill-ufage I have met with will not be eafily paifed over either
in
138 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
in AbyfUnia or at Sennaar. I am neither fervant nor merchant ; and it has been your ill-luck to try your wicked experiments upon a man like me, who never in his Kfc carried much money about him, becaufe he never valued it." MouL You muft forget all, and I will be your friend, Vvdth the Shekh, fince you come from the iher- riffe of Mecca." " And I, too, fays the other for the kindnefs you have ihewed our brother If- mael there, in carrying him home from among the Kafrs of Habefh ; and if Fidele cannot pro- cure camels, we will try and help him ; fo go in peace, and get ready."
We had fcarce got rid of this real danger, when the apprehenlion of an imaginary one ftruck us violently. The water at Teawa is ftagnant in pools, and exceedingly bad. Either that, or the bouza, a kind of new beer which they fent us with our meat, had given all of us, at the fame time, a violent diarrhcsa, and I was tormented with a perpetual thirH ever iince v/e had been overtaken by the iimoom ; and the bouza being acid, vv^as not only more agreeable, but I thought, relieved me more than bad water ; in this, there- fore, I certainly had exceeded. When we found we were all taken ill at the fame time, it came in- to our wife heads that Shekh Fidele had given us poifon in our dinner, and we were very much per- plexed what we fhould do the next day. None of us, therefore, tafted the meat fent us ; when at night, our friend, the black Have came, and to her WQ franldy told our doubts. The poor
creature
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 139
creature fell into fuch violent fits of laughing, which followed fo clofe the one upon the other, and lafted fo long, that I feared fhe would have expired upon the fpot. " It is the water, fays Ihe ; it does fo to all ftrangers ;" and then flie fell into another great fit of laughter. " Child, anfwered I, I you know the Shekh is not our friend, and there is no eafier v/ay to get i*id of us than by poifon, as we eat every thing that conies from ^'ou without fear.^' — ^^ And fo you may, fays file ; the Shekh could do no fuch thing with- out our knowledge^ and we Vv'ould rather all be burnt alive than be guilty of fo vile an aclion. Befides, fays ihe, this is not like Habelh, where both meat and drink, brought to you, are tailed by the bearer before you ufe them. There is no fuch thing as poifon in Atbara ; the lance and the knife in the field, that is the manner in whicA they kill one another here/'
We then fhewed her our dinner uneaten, and file again fell into a violent fit of laughter, and took the nieat away that fhe might warm it, and we heard her laughing all the w^ay as fhe went by herfelf. She was not long in returning with pro- vifions in plenty, and told us, that her miftreiTes never were fo diverted in their lives, and that {he left them ftili laughing. The black ilave then cal- led me to the door, and gave me an India green handkerchief, which fhe faid Aifcach had pulled from her head, and fent with her to me, with or- ders to inquire, " Do the women of your coun- try do fuch things, Yagoube, which, for all the
I fathers
140 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER.
fathers and gold in the world, Aifcach would not be guilty of? My father is indeed a Funge *, but my mother is a Jehainaf."
Neither the Shekh nor Moullah expected me out on Sunday, which I told them was my fefti- val. I employed that day in mounting and rec- tifying my quadrant, and that fame evening had a clear and diflinct obfervation of Procyon, and feveral other of the fixed flars, the largeft and fit- teil or my purpofe. The next day alfo, having a good obfervation of the fun in the meridian, all equations adopted from a mean, I found the la- titude of Teawa, the capital of Atbara, to be 14° 2' 4" north. With regard to longitude, Hor-Ca- camoot is about fix miles eaft of Teawa, which is nearly under the fame meridian with Ras el Feel, fo there was no occaiion for any obfervation on that fubjed:.
On the 13th of April arrived a naked Arab of the Jehaina, with intelligence that a caravan be- longing to Atbar, which had come to Nara in Abyiiinia for fait, had been all feized by Ammo- nios, Ayto Confu's governor of Nara, their affes and fait taken from them, and the men put in clofe prifon. The Shekh of the Jehaina, an old man of very comely prefence, with ten or twelve of his clan on camels, came over to Shekh Fidele that morning before 1 went out, and they found the Moullah fitting with him. The nevv^s ftruck all of them with a panic, but none more fo than
our
* Which means a Have. f A noble and free Arab.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 141
our Shekh of Atbara. The Shekh of the Jehaina faid he had not heard the caufe of it, but fo vio- lent a procedure had not happened even v/hen Yafous II. invaded Sennaar, for the people of the two frontiers had all that time been friends. He begged, however, Shekh Fidele immediately to interfere, and fend fome perfon to Ras el Feel, to his friend Yafine. When they had fettled thus far, a meifage came for me to attend the Shekh. I immediately went, leaving my fervants to put up my quadrant. I had, indeed, an inclination to obferve the approaching eclipfe ; but as I knew perfectly the fituation of Teawa with regard to Ras el Feel, I thought I might fpare myfelf this unneceiTary trouble, and only make ufe of the eclipfe to frighten Fidele as part of the puniih- ment he fo amply deferved.
There was a prodigious number of people af- fembled at the Shekh's door. The Jehaina had all come upon camels ; two or three of the prin- cipal ones v/ere fitting with him and the Moullah. One of thofe, whom I did not know, but who had feen me at Ras el Feel, upon my approach- ing the Shekh, got up, took me by the hand, and made a very refpectful falutation. As he was a friend of Yafine, and Shekh el Nile, I never doubt- ed from that minute that this was a contrivance of theirs in m.y favour.
The Moulhh had alledged, that probably I had difpatched feme intelligence to Yafine of my be- ing detained, which had caufed him to make this reprifal j but Shekh Fidele affured them that he
knevv
142 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
knew it to be impollible, and that this feizure of the caravan muft have been occaiioned by fome ill-ufage to the people belonging to Tcheiga and Nara, the frontier villages to the weftward. In this the Shekh of Jehaina agreed ; for he had heard Ammonios mentioned, but nothing of Ya- iine. The Moullah was unconvinced, but aiked me, " Hakim, have you never fent a complaint to Yafine iince you came to Teawa ? tell me tru- ly ; no harm fliall befal you from it/^ '*^ If I were not to tell you truly, laid I, Shekh, I would not anfwer you at all. I am under no obligation to do it, nor am I under any fear. You are but at the beginning of this affair and many will fuffer before 1 do." " Truly, fays the Moullah, but have you fent intelligence to Ras el Feel ?" No, no, fays Fidele, he had it not in his power ; nor is there a man in Teawa, that duril go on fuch an errand, it is fome cliiturbance about Tcheiga."
I eafily perceived that the Moullah wanted me to confefs wli^t I likewife faw the ufe of myfelf. " I fent, faid I, meffengers from Teawa two fe- veral tim.es. Ihe iirft, when Fidele pretended Yafine was to murder me in the deftrt ; the fe- cond, Vi^hen he faid he had no camels ; and I alfo mentioned the piaftres, and his intention to mur- der me." " Ammonios, fays black Sollman, and Yafme, Nara, and Ras el Feel, all belong to Ayto Confu, and were given to Yagoube by him, for his maintenance all the timie he was at Gondar. Ayto Confu and he are brothers ; they were to- gether in the camp, liept together in the fame
houfe
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 143
lioufe ; they are brothers and more than brothers, for they fwore to each other, when we paiTed Tcherkin, upon the heart of the elephant *. I fwear by our holy faith, that Confu will be down here himfelf ; what does he care for a journey of two days ?'*
All now with one voice condemned Fidele, who had not a word to fay, only, that if he knew the perfon who carried that mefTage, he would cut off his head, if he was his brother, " But it is impoffible, fays the Shekh ; lliould I not have known of the meffenger being abfent ? impoili- ble !'* Then turning to his fervant, faid, " Is Kutcho el Hybari here ? I have not fccn him late- ly."— ^' Sir, fays he, you know you fent Kutcho to Mendera lone before the Rakim arrived/'- —
o
"True, fays Fidele, then it is impollible." " Your meffengers and mine, faid I, Shekh, are not of the fame fort, nor ihall I afk your leave when I am to fend to Ras el Feel or Sennaar, nor fhall you ever cut off the head from any one of them. But why are you alarmed at thefe affes being ta- ken,? Should you not be afraid of fomethiiig fi- milar happening at Mecca ? Am not I under the protection of the iherriffe ? When Metical 'Aga hears this, will he not refent it ? ¥/ill Youfef Kabil, the Chriftian, the Iherriffe's vizir at Jidda, through whofe hands your people pafs, will he be gentler to them upon this account ?"-—'' A curfe upon him 1 fays the iherriffe ; he gentle ! he is a
fliark/'
I This is a very horrid oath, full of nonfenfe, and %'o\v.s of frjcn^fiiip and fecrecy.
144 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fhark." " Meloiin Tbn Sheitan, fays the Turk Ifmael, /. c, accurfed wretch, child of the devil 1" „«'• Well then, £ud I, the difficulty is only to know if he is informed of this a^ Mecca. Friday the 1 7th is your feftival. If the afternoon of that fhall pais like thofe of common days, I am a worth. lefs hian and an impoftor ; but if on that day, be- fore erafler*, a lign be feen in the heavens that fhall be thought by all of you unufual and extra™ ordinary, then am I an innocent man, and Fidele's deiisrns ag:ainft me are known to the world, at Sennaar and at Mecca, at Cairo and at Gondar, and every where elfe, and will not be plealing ei- ther to God or man." Yarif el Hakim f , fays the fherriffe ; Hakim t ! fays the Shekh of the Jehai- na ; Uilah Akbar || ! fays the PvlouUah, lifting his eyes up to heaven, and counting his beads very devoutly.
The foretelling the iign feemed not at all to pleafe the Shekh,. who appeared very much dif- concerted with the fuppoied invilibility of meifen- gers. I got up, having puilied my delign juft far enough. I then fhook hands with the Shekh, fay- ing, " I am glad to fee you don't want camels, al- luding to the number I fav/ come with the Jehai- na \ get your bouza made, and your proviiions ready, you'll have ftrangers with you foon." He faid only, " (Ullah Kerim !") /. e, God is merci- ful ; v/hich was echoed by every mouth in the
room
* El'afler is four o'clock. f The Hakim, or wife man knows.
\ He is indeed wife. || God is great.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 145
room. I faluted particularly the Shekh of the Jehaina, who had feen me at Ras el Feel, and I then went out of the room, leaving them al^ there, and going home very cliearful, began ^ o prepare for leaving Teawa, which we were (Iitis- fied was now near at hand.
On the 14th, in the morning, the MouHah and fherriffe, with the Shekh of Beyla's fervant, and the Old Kaiya Soliman, came to fee our clocks and watches. They fat upon benches at the door and drank coffee, not caring to enter the hdufe, I fup- pofe, for fear of being defiled. As the old Kaiya was there, it wms ainioft impoflible to fpeak con- cernino; our affliirs, all was about our reliofion, and the manner in which a Derviih. lived. All at once, a fervant behind cried out, " Nev/s from Sennaar 1" and, prefentiy after, v/e law three men ; one of v/hom was my fervant, whom I lent to Sennaar with the Daveina, who delivered to me a letter from Haai Belal, informing" me, that Mahomet x\bou Calec, and Shekh Adelan, were both at a diuance fi'om Sennaar, at the head of armies, and the kin^ in the cauital almoft alone, under great apprehenfions ; but as no mifchief had yet happened, and the king had no force, it was hoped things might be made up. Ke added, that he thought it better to wait a little, to g?
>w.U
a fervant of Adelan to accompany the king's, than to truit to that one alone. Having communica- ted the contents of m.y letter to Shekh Fidele, and received his congratulations, they all left me, and went to the Shekh to hear what furtiicr news were Vol. V. L brought
146 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
brou2:Iit to bim. What I told him was confirm- ed ; and the Shekh having no longer any option, declared his refolution to obey without further delay, and deiired us to get ready for our jour- ney.
It w^as told us, however, foon after, 'tha.t the kino;'s fervant who had arrived, whofe name was Mahomet, was a great friend of Shekh Fidele, and the ufual one fent to him at Teawa ; and that he was a great drunkard, and reprobate. On the contrary, Adelan's fervant, though young, v/as a very gentle, fober perfon, a Have that had been given to Adelan by the Shekh of Beyla ; and he was very urgent for us to depart. We foon faw the confequence of this difference of manners ; and that Shekh Fidele had not relinquifiied his view to the piaftres. For having tutored the king's fervant all night, and gained him to his intereft, he had, early in the morning of the 15th, declared that he was not to IHr from Teawa for a fortnight, and he w^as ordered to get the cam.els from fome diilance in Atbara, the place I do not remember. This difpleafed Adelan's fervant much, who declared before the afTembly, that he was determined to fet out the next day, that he knew not the orders the king had given, but he knew his m.aftcr's orders ; and that if the Shekh did not furniih him with camels, or oppofed our fetting out, he would take him with him to Ade- lan at Aira, or, upon his refufal to go, denounce him a rebel, and his mafler's enemy, and leave him to what v/ould be the confequence Upon
this
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 147
this bold fpeecli, every body left the Shekh, and went away, whifpering, two and two together. The king's fervant joined his companion, who told me to be ready, and fear nothing, for he would fee me to-morrow night at Beyla. * About half an hour after my return home I was again called to the Shekh, who had only the Moullah and the old Kaiya fitting by him, Vv^ith two lliort letters in his hand from Yafine, full of reproaches for his behaviour to me, and declaring w^ith mofl: folemn oaths, that if thofe letters found me at Teavva, or if I v/as not a:one from thence in peace, ''he v/ould, before a fortnight was elap- fed, be down as an enemy upon Teawa ; and un- lefs the Daveina did engage to burn every {talk of corn between that and Bevla as foon as it was in the ear, he would fliut Abyllmia againfl them^ and that they Ihould neither eat bread nor drink v/ater in it as lonsr as he was^ alive and governor of Ra.s el Feel, Thefe letters mentioned a com- plaint likewife that had been fent to Shekh Ade- ian at Sennaar, but by whom they did not fay^ probably from Ay to Confu, complaining of Fidele's ufaQ-e to me. Yafine's men, that brouG:ht the letters from Ras el Feel to Teawa, were faid to be three in ninxiber, mounted on camels, or dromedaries, and armed vi'ith coats of m.ail and head-pieces. They refufed to come into Teavra, to eat of Shekh Fidele's bread *, or drink of hi-; water, looking; upon him as a declared enemv of
* This lefum among the Aivibi is a dcclaraticu of the noft dtadiy m- mity.
4B
TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Yafme, their mailer. Fidele with fome difficulty « at lafl; allowed black Solimaii to go to meet them, to perfuade them to enter the town ; but all to no purpofe, for the only favour he could obtain v/as, that they fliould fcay with the Jehaina at libbel Ifriirtill they heard I was fliirly fct out on my journey.
The next day, the 1 6th of April, I received a nicukge from the Moullah, that the camels were :>u ready, that girbas for the water %vere want- ing,: but girbas fliould be found for me ; and he would give me his v/ord they fliould be found filled at the river w^here I directed ; as alfo all forts of provifions and necelTaries to carry me to Bey- la, to which place I fliould fet out the moment I pleafed ; only that I muil not go from Teawa without making peace with the Shekh, and pro- miling to forgive him, and not make any com- plaint againfl: him at Sennaar or elfewhere, pro- ^ ided he, on his part, gave over all further iPia- chinations againft me. I anfwered. That how^- ever ilbufed, yet, for his fake, I would do any thing he wdflied me to do, and that I v/as ready to pacify Yafme, by wTiting to him by the return of his melTengers. All was agreed, fo w^e packed up our baggage wath the utmoft diligence.
On the i/th, in the forenoon, I was appoint- ed to meet the Shekh at his own houfe, and told the Moiiilali I expecled he would have the cam.els ready. As w^e fufpeclcd, our girbas were infuf- ficient, and indeed we had found them fo when they loft our water in the wood near Imgellalib ; Vv-e got three new ones from the Shekh in perfed
good
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 149
good condition, and gave him our two in cx- clmnge, which were fomething larger than his. Each of the-fe ikins are valued at 1 2 dollars, or about three pounds fteriing. There is great art and labour required in making the feams water- tight ; they are all ftitched moil dexteroufly, ftrongly greafed, and then laid over thick on the outfide with w^arm tar, and need conftant care and infpeclion. About nine o'clock we went to the Shekh, and entered prefently upon bufmefs. I engaged to pacify Yafine, whofe fervants, upon , my meffage, came to to^^n to fee me depart, and' were kindly received and clothed by the Shekh. A large breakfaft was ordered ;'Fidele and I, w^ith Yafine's fervants, ate togei^her of fevcral very good difiies. The tv/o holy men, and ano-ther llranger equally holy^, ate together out of .a;fepa- rate plate ; after which they all flood up, and fiicl the prayer of peace, and I took my leave. We all then went out together into the m.arket place, and eight camels Vv^ere ordered down to my houfe^ with people to wait upon them..
The girbas, which lay filled and foaking at the river-fide, were ready to be loaded upon our ca- mels. A ferv^^ant of the Kaiya held my horfe, . which had been taken from m.e by Fidele foon al- ter my arriving at Teawa, but which was nov/ reilored to me. My fervant who came from Sen- naar, had indeed told mc that no horics vv^ould live there ; that thofe that were neceifary for the troops of the government were all kept at a dii- tance fi'om Sennaar, and maintained at Aira^ or
Dlacc'
15© TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
places in the fand at a fmall diftance, but free from the plague of the fly. The Shekh made no obi^zrvation upon this. 1 faid, The horfe is a ve- ry excellent one^ and I will now £hew him to you. I fent for a fliort double-barrelled gun, threw off my burnoofe, and mounting the horfe, made him do every thing he was capable of, putting him to his full fpeed, firing to right and left on each fide of him.
They were all ilruck with amazement, and with
0
a kind of terror. They had never before feen a gun fired on horfeback, much lefs a gun fired twice without charging. I did not want to explain the matter to them ; and, as far as I could per- ceive, the Moullah efpecially was very glad when I fent it home. " This is the way, faid I, thkt my countrymen ride, and the way the fight ; no people on earth underfland fire-arms or horfe- m.anfhip like them. For my part, I am a man of peace, a Dervifh, and no foldier ; it is not my profeiiion, and I do the thing aukwardly. If you faw fome of our foldiers ride, it would be a fight indeed." Fidele laughed, or counterfeited a laugh, but being a foldier, it was his part to fay fome- thing. " If many of your countrymen like you were here, man of peace as you are, unlefs they were friends to us they would get all Atbara to themfelves. If they were friends, fays he, I think I could do fomething with them ; that horfe feems to have the fenfe of a man." — Such as he is, faid I, difm.ounting, a prince gave him to me, and fuch as he is I now give him to you, as a proof
tliat
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 15%
that I am your friend, and that I fhould not grudge you a few paltry piafters, if I had not been under a vow of poverty ; money is of no kind of value to me, and confequently not carried about with me." The horfe was gladly received, though, as I was going to Sennaar, where no horfes ar^ kept, the compliment was a cheap one on my part.
" Ho v/ could you, Fidele, fays the Moullahin great furprife, have it in your heart to torment fdch a man as this ? I told you what he was, our books fpeak. of them : they are not Kafrs, but ipeixd-jkU.tJieir lives in wandering over the face of the earth in fearch of wifdom, and are alwavs to do fo till Hagiuge Magiuge come^ and then there v/ill be an end of the world.' I made a bov£ of aifent to the Moullah, and all the reft turne4c«:p their eyes to heaven in wonder of fo much learn- ing, repeating their ufual ejaculation, " Ullah iikbar 1" God is great. I now took my leave of them, and was going home, when the younger flierrifFe called after me, and faid, '• I fuppofe now you are all at peace, we ihall not fee thefign, that you foretold us was to appear in the heavens to-day." " I Ihould be thought a liar if it did not appear, faid I ; do you wiih to fee it :-— " I wiih to fee it, fays he, if it will do no harm/'- — ^ " Then, replied I, you ihall fee it, and it ihall do no harm now. 1 hope it will bring health and happinefs, and a good crop to Teawa, and all the kingdom of Sennaar. Go home, while I order my affairs. Something more than two hours af-
- ter
152 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ter this I. will come to you, and it will then appear. They all v/cnt aw^ay, and, as I tliought by theirs looks, they would have been better fatisfied that affair had been forgot, the Shekh faying pceviih- ly to the flierriffe, " Let him mind his affairs and his iourney ; what is the uie of thefe things now?" I had rectified my watch by obfervation. I knew I could not be far wrong, having {qqu in the ephenierides the hour the eclipfe was to begin. I paffed a corner of the Shekh's houfe, and went in at the back-door. He was there wdth his ufu- al hieiids, the Moullah, the iherriffe, the Kaiya, and one or two more. The iherriffe alked me wh^ye the iign would appear ; and the Mouilah, if there would be any thunder and lightning ? I told them there would be nothing difagreeable at _all.' I went to the door, and faw it was begun. There w^as to be a total eclipfe of the moon. I did not tell them at iirft, till it had advanced fome Vv^ay, and v/as apparent upon the diik. " Now 1 look at that, faid I ; in fome time after this the rnoon fiiail be fo totally fwallowed up in darknefs that a fmall liorht fhall only be feen in the ed2:es." Thev were friditened at the denunciation, rather than at any thing the^/ obferved, till a little before the eclipfe became total. A violent apprehenfion then fell upon them all ; and the Vv^omen from their apartments began to howl as they do on all melancholy occaflons of mnsfortune, or death. TJiey were in the inner fiuare. " Now, conti- nued L I have kept my word; it will foon be clear again, and will do no harm to man or beaft."
It
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 153
It was agreed among them that I iliould not go home till it was totally at an end. I confcnted to this ; and only faid to the Shekh, that I wiihed he would let me fee my patients before 1 went away, for that one of them was really ill, and needed advice. He feemed to take it very kindly, and defired me to go in. ^ I was m.et in the anti- chamber by Aifcach, and two or three black Haves, who cried out in great terror, " O ! Ha- kim ! what is this ! what are you going to do !" " 1 arn going to do, Madan\ faid I, one of the moil diiasrreeable thin 0-3 I ever did in mv life ; I am sroinor to take leave of vou," I was imme- diately furrounded with a number of women, feme of them crying, fome of them with chil- dren in their arms. I went into the room where the two ladies were, vv'hom I quieted and fatisfied to the utmoil of my power. We parted with re- ciprocal profeflions of friendfhip and regret at fe- paration. I then begged that I might fee their Have, who ufed to bring us m.eat, vrlth a clean cloth, to wrap ud fomethin^ I hacl for them. They told me, Sennaar vvas but a bad place for white people ; but promifed to fend recom.men- dadon in my favour, both to Adelan and the king's women, by Adelan's fervant, who was to conduct us.
When I returned to the Shekh, the emeriion was far advanced, and they all feemed to be re- gaining their compofure, though ftrong marks of furprife remained in their countenances. After a little converfation, turning chiefly upon Ha-
2:iu^e
154 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
giuge Magiugc, and their filly ftories about them^ which I ihaii not repeat, 1 took my leave, and went hoiTxe, renewing my aiTurances that all was forgotten.
At night, the ilave came and brought a clean cotton cloth. I fent a piece of thin India yellow fatin, and fix handfom>e crimfon and green hand- kerchiefs, to the beautiful Aifcach; and, to the beft of my povvcr, difcharged all our obligations to thofe that v/ere our friends and had been kind
to uS.
In a country fo defert, and exceed! ngly ( r as Teawa, under fuch a government, it is not to be expected that trade of any kind iliould flourilli : yet there is a miferabie manufacture of coarfe cotton clothe of the fize of large towels, juft enough to go round the middle, v/hich pafs cur- rent, like fpecie, all over Atbara : They are called Dimoor, and are ufed in place of fmall lilver mo- ney. The Mahalac, a very bad copper coin, paifes for fip^aller m.atters ; fo that the currency of Teav/a ftands thus :• —
20 Pvlahalac, i Crufb,, i2 Crufli, I Metical,
4 ivieticai, I V ajoa. The vakia of gold is worth about forty-uve Uiil- lings ; but the only commerce of Teawais carried on by exchange, as fait for grain, camels for fait ; the value of goods varying according to the fear- city or plenty of one fort of commodities with refpecl to the other.
The reader will, I believe, by this, be as deiir-
ous
•THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 155
©us to get out of Teawa as I was ; and if fo, it is charity in time to deliver him. I took leave of the Shekh on the 1 8th in the morning ; but before we could get all ready to depart it was five in the afternoon, The day had been immoderately hot, and we had refolved to travel all night, though we did not fay fo to the Shekh, who advifed us to fleep at Imgededema, where there was frefh water. But we had taken a girba of water v/ith us, or rather, in cafe of accident, a little in each of the three girbas 5 and all being ready on the river-fide, except the king's fervant, we fet out, and he overtook us in lefs than two hours atter- wards, pretty uell refrefhed with the Shekh's bouza, and ftrongly prejudiced againft us, as W9 had occafion to difcover after wardso
CHAP.
156 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
/
C H A R Vil.
Arrival at Beyla — Friendly reception there ^ and after ^ amon^-fi the Nuba-— Arrival at Seiinaar.
o
yy HEN we got a few miles Into the plain, my fervant delivered me a meiTage from the Moullah, that he would join us the next day at Beyla ; that we were not to truft to the king's fervant in -any thing, but entirely to that of the.Shekh Ade- lan ; and if thefe two had any difpute together, to take no fliare in it, but leave them to fettle it betVv^een themfelves ; that, upon no account 'whatever, we ihould fufFer any companions to join us upon the road to Beyla, but drive them off by harili words, beat them if they did not go away, and, if they ftill perlifted, to ihoot them, and- make our way good by force ; that between Teav/a and Beyla was a place, the inhabitants of which had withdrawn themfelves from their alle- giance to the king of Sennaar, who could not there protect us j therefore sve were to trufl to
ourfelvcs.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 15;
Qurfclves, and admit ofno parley; for if we paf- {cd, we fliould pafs with applaufe, as if the king's force had conducted us ; and if we mifcarried, the blame would be laid upon ourfelves, as hav- ing ventured, fo thinly attended, through a country laid wafle by rebel x\rabs, exprefsly in defiance of government. He added, that'hedid not i3elieve it w^as in Shekh Fidele's power, from want of time, to do us any injury upon the road; that the people in Teawa were in general well- afFecled to us, and afraid we fhould bring Yailne and the Daveina upon them., and fo Vvxre the Je- haina; and as for the pack of gracelefs foldiers that were then about the Shekh, their belief that we had really no money with us, and the laft ex- hibition I had iliewn them on horfeback, had per- feclly cured them of venturing: their iives for lit- tie, againft people fo niuch mperior to them in the management of arms ; yet he wiflied us to be active and vigilant like men, and truft in nothing till we had feen the Shekh of Bevla, and not to lofe a moment on the road-
Our journey, for the firft feven hours, v/as through a barren, bare, and fandy plain, vAth- out finding a veftige of any living creature, with- out water, and without grafs, a country that feemed under the immediate curfe of Heaven. At twxlve o'clock at night we turned a little to the eaftvv^ard of fouth, to enter through very broken ground into a narrow defile, between two hills of no confiderable height. This Dafs is called Mat- tina. One of our cam. el-drivers declared that he
faw
15^ TRAVELS TO DISCOVEll
faw two men run into the bufhes before hirn, upon which our people took all to their flings, throwing many ftones before them into the buflies dire6i-ed nearly to a man's height. At their ear- nell defire I ordered Ifmael to fire our large fliip- blunderbufs, with fifty fmall bullets in it, among the bufhes, in the direction of the road-fide ; but we neither faw nor heard any thing of thofe peo- ple thereafter, if there really were any, nor did I, at the time, indeed, believe the camel-driver had feen any one but through the medium of his own fears ; for the Arabs never attack you till near fun-fet, if they are doubtful of their own fuperiority, or at dawn of day, if they think they have the advantage, that they may have time to purfue you.
We, however, all continued on foot, from four till the grey of the morning of the 19th of April. Indeed, fo violent an inclination to fleep had fal- len upon me, that I was forced to walk, for fear of breaking m.y neck by a fall from my camel, till eight o^clock, when we halted in a wood of ebony bufhes, grovv^ing like the birch tree in ma- ny flioots from the old flems, which had been cut down for fear of harbouring the fly, and totally deprived of their leaves afterwards, by the burn- ing of grafs, from the fame reafon. This place is called Abou Jehaarat, and is the limit between the government of Teawa and Beyla. After fuch a very fatiguing journey, we reiled at Abou Jehaarat till the afternoon. The fun was very hot, but fortanately f^me fncpherds caves were du2r in the bank, and to thefe v/e fled
for
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 15^^
for fhelter from the intenfe heat of the fun, where the ebony trees, though in a very thick wood, could afford us no iliade, for the reafons already given.
At three o'clock in the afternoon we fet out from Abou Jehaarat, in a direction w^ft, and at cip-ht in the evening; we arrived at Bcvla. There is no water betw^een Teavs^a and Beyla. Once, Imgededema, and a number of villages, were fup- piied with water from w^lls and had large crops of Indian corn fovvm about their poiTelTions. The curfs of that country, the Arabs Daveina, have deilroyed Imgededema, and all the villages about it, filled up their wells, burnt their crops, and cxpofed all the inhabitants to die by famxine.
We found Beyla to be in lat. 13^ 42' 4" ; that is, about eleven miles Vv^eic of Teav/a, and thirty- one and a half mnles due fouth. We were met by Mahomet, the Shekh, at the very entrance of the tow^n. Ke faid, he looked upon us as rifen from the dead ; that we muft be good people, and particularly under the care of Providence, to have efcaped the mi any fnares the Shekh of Atbarahad laid for us. Mahomet, the Shekh, had provided every fort of refreihmient poilible for us ; and, thinking we could not live without it, he had or- dered fugar for us from^ Sennaar. Honey for the mioft part ratherto had been its fubftitute. We had a good comfortable fupper ; as fine wheat- bread as ever I ate in my life, brought from Sen- naar, as alfo rice ; in a word, every-thing that our kind landlord could contribute to our plenti- ful and hofpitable entertainment.
Our
i6o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Our whole company was full of joy, to which the Shekh greatly encouraged them ; and if there was an alloy to the happinefs, it was the feeing that I did not partake of it. Symptoms of an aguiili ditbrder had been hanging about me for feveral days, ever lince the diarrhcs^a had left me. I found the greateft repugnance, or naufea, at the fm.ell of warm meat ; and, having a violent head-ach, I infilled upon going to bed fupperlefs, after having drank a quantity of v/arm water by way of emetic. Being exceedingly tired, I foon fell found afleep, having fird taken fome drops of a ftrong fpirituous tincture of the bark which I had prepared at Gondar, refolving, if I found any reniiflion, as I then did, to take feveral good dofes of the bark in powder on the morrow, be- ginning at day break, which 1 accordingly did with its ufual fuccefs.
On the 2oth of April, a little after the dawn of day, the Shekh,. in great anxiety, came to the place where I w^as lying, upon a tanned buS;iloe';s hide, on the 'zround. His forrov/ was foon turned into joy when he found me quite recovered from my illnefs. I had taken the bark, and expreifed a defire of eating a hearty breakfaft of rice, w^hich was immediately prepared for me.
The Shekh of Beyla was an implicit believer in medicine. Seeing me take fome drops of the tinccure before coffee, he iniifted upon pledging me, and I believe would have wiUingly emptied the vv'hole bottle. After having funered great agony with his own complaint, he had paiTed fome fmaii Hones, and v/as greatly better, as he faid,
for
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. i6i
for the foap-pills. I put him in a way to prepare thefe, as alfo his lime-water. It was impoffible to have done any favour for him equal to this, as his agony had been fo great. He told me our Moullah was arrived from Teawa, and had left Shekh Fidele ftill repining at our departure, with- out leaving him the piaftres. As for the eclipfe, he faid he did not care a ftraw, nor for what they did or knew at Mecca, for he had no intereft there. I underftood our friend Mahomet, Shekh of Beyla, had been under great uneaiinefs at the eclipfe, when it advanced in the immerlion, and became total. Some time before this, as he faid, there had been another, but not fo great, on the day the Daveina burnt Imgededema, with above thirty other villages, and difperfed or deftroyed about two thoufand inhabitants of Atbara.
It was now the time to give the Shekh a prefent, and I had prepared one for him, fuch as he very well deferved ; but no in treaty, nor any means I could ufe, could prevail upon him to accept of the mereft trifle. On the contrary, he folemnly fwore, that if I importuned him further he would get upon his horfe and go into the country. All that he deiired, and that too as a favour, was, that, when I had refted at Sennaar, he might come and confult me further as to his complaints, for which he promifed he fhould bring a recom- pence with him. We then fettled to give his pre- fent to the Moullah, with which he v/as very well pleafed, and which he took without any of thofe
Vol. V. M difficulties
1 62 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
difficulties the Shekh of Beyla had ftarted when it was offered to him.
All being friends now, and contented, the day was given to repofs and joy. The king's fervant came and told me, by way of fecret, that we could not do lefs to pleafe the Shekh than flay with him a week at Beyla, and I believe it w^ould not have diipleafed him ; but after fo much coming and goings, fo much occaiion for talk relative to me, I was refolved to follow Hagi Belal's advice, and prefs on to Sennaar before affairs there were in a defperate iituation, or fome fcheme of mif- chief iliould be contrived by Fidele. One thing Shekh Adelan's fervant told us, that he had, by his m.aiier's orders, taken from Fidele the prefent I had given him, though he had already made it up into a gown, or robe, for himfelf. " He is a poor wretch, fays the Shekh of Beyla ; he has fpent two years of the king's revenues from At- bara, and nobody has fupported him except Shekh Adelan, whofe daughter he married, but he now has given him up iince he has fully know^a him ; 2.rA^ if our troubles do not follow quickly, I fup- pofe one of thefe days I fhall have him here in his way to Sennaar, never to return ; for every body knows now that it was in hatred to him, and for the many faithlefs and bad aclions he v/as guilty of, that the Arabs have deftroyed all that part of the country, though they have not burnt a ftraw about Beyla."
We had again a large and plentiful dinner, and a quantity of bouza ; venifon of feveral different
fpecies
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 163
fpecies of the antelope or deer-kind, and Guinea- fowls, boiled with rice, the bell part of our fare, for the venifon fmelled and tafted flrongly of mufk. This was the provifion made by the Shekh's two fons, boys about fourteen or fifteen years old, who had got each of them a gun with a match-lock, and whofe favour 1 fecured to a very high degree, by giving them fome good gun- pow^der, and plenty of fmall leaden bullets.
In the afternoon we walked out to fee the vil- lage, which is a very pleafant one, iituated upon the bottom of a hill, covered with wood, all the reft flat before it. Through this plain there are many large timber trees, planted in row^s, and joined "with high hedges, .as in Europe, forming inclofures for keeping cattle ; but of thefe we faw none, as they had been moved to the Dender for fear of the flies. There is no water at Beyla but what is got fromx deep wells. Large plantations of Indian corn are every where about the town. The inhabitants are in continual apprehenflon from the Arabs Daveina at Sim Sim, about 40 miles fouth-eaft from them ; and from another povv^erful race called Wed abd el Gin, /. e. Son of thejlaves of the Dev'd^ v/ho^-iive to the fouth-v/efl: of them, between the Bender and the Nile. Beyla is another frontier town of Sennaar, on the flde of Sim Sim ; and between Teawa and this, on the Sennaar fide, and Ras el Feel, Nara, and Tchelga, upon the AbylTmian iide, all is defert and wafte, the Arabs only fuffering the water to remain there w^ithout villages near it^ that they
M 2 and
i64 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and their flocks may come at certain feafons while the grafs grows, and the pools or fprings fill elfewhere.
Although I went early to bed with full deter- mination to fet out by day-break, yet I found it was impoflible to put my defign in execution, or get from the hands of our kind landlord. One of our girbas feemed to fail, and needed to be re- paired. Nothing good, as he truly faid, could come from the Shekh of Atbara. A violent dif- pute had arifen in the evening, after I was gone to bed, over their bouza, between the king's fer- vant and that of Shekh Adelan. It was about di- viding their fees which they had received from Shekh Fidele. This was carried a great length,. and it was at laft agreed that it Ihould be deter- mined by the Shekh of Beyla in the m.orning, when both of them, as might be fuppofed, fhould have cooler heads. For my part, I took no thought^ or concern about it, as no circumftance of its ori- gin had been notified to me ; but it took up fo much of our time, that it was after dinner before we were readv.
On the 2 1 ft of April we left Beyla at three o*- clock in the afternoon, our direction fouth-weft, through a very pleafant, flat country, but with, out water ; there had been none in our way near- er than the river Rahad. About eleven at nisrht we alighted in a wood : The place is called Bahe- rie, as near as we could compute, nine miles from Beyla.
On
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 165
On the 2 2d, at half paft five o'clock in the anorning, we left Baherie, ftiil continuing weft- ward, and at nine we came to the banks of the Rahad. The ford is called Tchir Chaira. The river itfelf was now ftanding in pools, the water foul, ftinking, and covered with a green mantle ; the bottom foft and muddy, but there v%^as no choice. The water at Beyla was' fo bad, that we took only as much as was abfolutely neceffary till we arrived at running water from the Rahad« We continued half an hour traveilinof along: the river at N. ^^L-and W. N. W. till three quarters paft ten. At noon we again met the river Rahad, which now had turned to the weftward of norths and by its fides we pitched our tents near the huts of the Arabs, called Cohala^ a ftationary tribe, that do not live in tents, but are tributary to the Mek, and regularly pay ail the taxes and exacli= ons the government of Sennaar lays upon them^ and from tliefe, thei'efore, we were not imder any appreheofion.
On the 23d, at fix o'clock in the morning, w^ Jeft the Cohala, continuing along the River Ra- had, which here runs a very little to the eaftward of north. At three o'clock we alighted at KuDiar^ another ftation of the fame Arabs of Cohak, on the river fide. This river, here called Rahad, or Thunder, winds the moft of any ftream in Abyf- finia. It begins not far from Tchelga, paffes be- rvveen Kuara and Sennaar, feparating Abyfiinia from Nubia, and making, with the river Atbara, jthe Aftaboras or Tacazze, and the Nile, a perted
iiland
166 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ifland, whereas before it v/as only a peninfula. It feems to intercept all the fprings that would go down to the middle of the peninfula, from the high country of Abyffinia, and is probably the reafon of the gjreat dearth of water there. While it is in AbyiTmia it is called Shimfa. It falls into the Nile at Ilabharras, about thirty-eight miles north of Sennaar.
The quarrel between our two conductors was fo little made up, that the king's fervant would not travel with us, but always went half a day before, and we joined him when wt encamped in the evening. We did not pay him the compli- ment of aOiing him why he did this, but allowed him to take his own way, which he feemed not to be pleafed with, giving many hints at night, that he had, all his life^ been averfe to the having any thing to do with w^hite people.
We fet out at five in the afternoon from Ku- mar, and in the clofe of the evening m.et feveral men, on horfeback and on foot, coming out from
among the builies, who endeavoured to carry off one of our camels. We indeed v/ere fomewhat alarmed, and were going to prepare for reiiftance. The camel they had taken away had on it the king's and Shekh Adeian's prefents, and fome o^ ther things for our future need. Our clothes too, books, and papers, were upon the fame camel. Adeian's fervant, though he vv^as at firft furprifed, did not lofe his prefence of mind ; he foon knev/ thefe Arabs could not be robbers, and gueiled it to be a piece of malice of the king's fervant to
friirhten
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 167
frighten us, and extort money from us, in order to obtain reftitution of the camel. He therefore rode up to one of the villages of the Arabs, to afk them who thofe were that had taken away our camel.
In one of the huts he found the king:'s fervant regaling himfelf ; upon which he faid to him. "I fuppofe, MahomxCt, you have taken charge of that camel, and will bring it with you to Sennaar ; it has your mafter's prefents, and mine alfo upon It :" and faying this, he rode off to join us, a,nd to punifti thofe that had taken the camel, who, we were fure, after this notification, muft follow us. We kept on at a very briik pace,, for it was eleven o'clock before they came up to where \vc were encamped for the night, bringing our camel, which they had taken, along with them, Vv^ith an Arab on horfehack, attended with two on foot, and with them the kin2:'s fervant. I did not feeni at all to have underftood the aiTair, only that rob° bers had taken away our camel. But it did not fit fo eafy upon the Arabsy who did not know there was any with us but the king's fervant, and who wanted to frighten us for not making them a prefent for eating their grafs and drinking their water. At firft, Adelan's fervant refufed to take the camel again upon any terms, infilling that the Cohala ihould carry it to Sennaar ; but, after a great many words, I determined to make peace, upon condition that they fhould furnifh us with miik, v/herever they had cattle, till we arrived at Sennaar. This was very readily confented to ;
and
i68 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
and as this affair probably was owing to the ma- lite of the king's fervant, fo it, ended without fur- ther trouble.
On the 24th5 we fet out at half after five in the morning, and palled through feveral fmall villages of Cohala on the right and on the left, till at eleven we came to the river Dender, {land- ing now in the pools, but by the vaft widenefs of its banks, and the great deepnefs of its bed, all of white fand, it fhould feem that in time of rain it will contain nearly as much water as the Nile. The banks are every where thick overgrown with the rack and jubeb tree, efpecially the latter. The wood, which had continued moftly from Beyla, here failed us entirely, and reached no further towards Sennaar. Thefe two forts of trees, how- ever, were in very great beauty, and of a prodi- gious fize. Here we found the main body of Co- hala, with all their cattle, living in perfectly fe- curity both from Arabs and from the plague of the fly. They v/ere as good as their word to us in fupplying us plentifully with excellent milk, which we had fcarcely ever tafted lince we left Gondar.
■ At fix o'clock in the evening of the 24 th we fet out from a fhady place of repofe on the banks of the Dender, through a large plain, with not a tree before us ; but we prefently found ourfelves cncompaifed with a number of villages, nearly of a fize, and placed at equal difcances in form of a femi-circle, the roofs of the houfes in ftiape of cones, as are all thofe within the rains. The plain
was
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 169
was all of a red, foapy earth, and the corn juft fown. This whole country is in perpetual culti- vation, and though at this time it had a bare look, would no doubt have a mao-niiicent one when wa- ving with grain. At nine we halted at a village of Pagan Nuba. Thefe are all foldiers of the Mek of Sennaar, cantoned in thefe villages, which, at the diftance of four or five miles, furround the whole capital. They are either purchafed or ta- ken by force from Fazuclo, and the provinces to the fouth upon the mountains Dyre and Teg- la. Having fettlements and provilions given them, as alfo arms put in their hands, they never wiilx to defer t, but live a very domeftic and fober life. Many of them that I have converfed with feem a much gentler fort of negro than thofe from Ba- har el Aice, that is, than thofe of whom the Funge, or government of Sennaar, are compo- fed.
Thefe have fmall features iikewife, but are woolly-headed, and ilat-nofed, like other negroes, and fpeak a langua.ge rather pleafant and fono- rous, but radically different from many I have heard. Though the Mek, and their mailers at Sennaar, pretend to be mahometans, yet they have never attem^pted to convert thefe Nuba ; on the contrary, they entertain, in every village, a certain number of Pagan prieils, who have foldi- ers pay, and affiit them in the ofhces of their reli- gion. No't knovvdng their language perfectly, nor their cuftoms, it is impoilible to fay any thing a- bout their religion. Very few of the common fort
of
170
TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
of them fpeak Arabic. A falfe account, in thefe cafes, is always worfe than no account at all. I never found one of their priefts who could fpeak fo much Arabic as to be able to give any infor- mation about the objecls of their worfhip in dif- tincl and unequivocal terms ; but this was from my not underftanding them, and their not un- derftanding me, not from any deiire of conceal- m.ent, or fhynefs on their part ; on the contrary, they feemed always inclined to agree with me, when they did not comprehend my meaning, and there is the danger of being milinformed.
They pay adoration to the moon ; and that their worfhip is performied with pleafure and fa- tisfacfion, is obvious every night that flie fhines. Coming out from the darknefs of their huts, they fay a few wa)rd3 upon feeing her brightnefs, and teflify great joy, by motions of their feet and hands, at the firft appearance of the new moon. I never faw them pay any attention to the fun, ei- ther riiing or fetting, advancing to or receding from the meridian ; but, as far as I could learn, they w^orihip a tree, and likewife a ftone, tho' I never could find out what tree or ftone it w^as, on- ly that it did not exift in the country of Sennaar, but in that w^here they were born. Their priefts feemed to have great influence over them, but through fear only, and not from affeclion. They are diftinguiflied by thick copper bracelets about their wrifts, as alfo fometimes one, and fome- times two about their ancles.
Thefc
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 171
Thefe villages are called Dahera, which feems to me to be the lame word as Daflirah, the name given to the Kabyles, or people in Barbary, who live in fixed huts on the mountains. But not ha- ving made myfelf maPcer enough of the Kabyles language when in Barbary, and being totally ig- norant of that of the Nuba we are now fpeaking of, I cannot pretend to purfue this refemblance farther. They are immoderately fond of fv.dne's fleih, and maintain great herds of them in their poiTeilion. The hogs are of a fmali kind, gene- rally marked with black and white, exceedingly prolific, and exactly refembling a fpccies of that kind comm.on in the north of Scotland. The Nuba are not circumcifed. They very rarely turn Mahometans, but the generality of their children do. Few of them advance higher than to be fol- diers and oHicers in their own corps. The Mek maintains about twelve thoufand of thefe near Sennaar, to keep the Arabs in fubjeclion. They are very quiet, and fcarcely ever known to be guilty of any robberies or mutinous diforders, de- claring always for the mafcer, that is, the great one fet over them. There is no running water in all that imimenfe plain they inhabit, it is all pro- cured from dravv^-wells. VJe faw them cleaning: one, v/hich I meafured, and was nearly eight fa- thoms deep. In a climate fo violently hot as this, there is very little need of fuel, neither have they any, there being no turf, or any thing refemblim^ it, in the country, no wood, not even a tree, iince we had palled the river Dender. However, they
never
172 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
never eat their meat raw as in Abyffinia ; but with the ftalk of the dora, or millet, and the dung of camels, they make ovens under ground, in which they roaft their hogs whole, in a very cleanly, and not difagreeable manner, keeping their ikins on till they are perfectly baked. They had neither flint nor fteel vvdierewith to light their fire at firft, but do it in a manner ftill more expeditious, by taking a finall piece of ftick, and making a iharp point to it which they hold perpendicular, and then make a fmall hole of nearly the fame iize in another piece of flick, which they lay horizontal ; they put the one within the other, and, between their two hands, they turn the perpendicular ftick, (in the fame m.anner that we do a chocolate mill) when both thefe flicks take fire, and flame in a moment upon the friclion ; fo perfeclly dry and prepared is every thing here upon the furface to take fire, notv^ithllanding they are every year fubjed to fix months rain.
On the 25th, at fciir o'clock in the afternoon we fet out from the villages of the Nuba, intend- ing to arrive at Bafboch, where is the ferry over the Nile ; but we had fcarcely advanced two miles into the plain, when we were inciofed by a vio- lent whirlwind, or what is called at fea the v/ater- fpout. The plain was red earth, which had been plentifully moiftened by a fhower in the night- time. The unfortunate camel that had been ta- ken by the Cohala feemed to be nearly in the cen- ter of its vortex. It was lifted and thrown down at a confiderabie diflance, and feveral of its ribs
broken
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 173
broken. Although, as far as I could guefs, I was not near the center, it whirled me off my feet, and threw me down upon my face, fo as to make my nofe gulh out with blood. Two of the fer- vants likewife had the fame fate. It plaiftered us all over with mud, almoft as finoothly as could have been done with a trowel. It took away my fenfe and breathing for an inftant, and my mouth and nofe were full of mud when I recovered. I guefs the fphere of its aclion to be about 200 feet. It demoliihed one half of a fmall hut as if it had been cut through vv^ith a knife, and difperfed the materials all over the plain, leaving the other half Handing.
As foon as we recovered ourfelves, we took re- fuge in a village, from fear only, for we faw no veftige of any other whirlwind. It involved a great quantity of rain, which the Nuba of the vil- lages told us was very fortunate, and portended good luck to us, and a profperous journey ; for they faid, that had duft and fand arifen with the whirlwind, in the fame proportion it would have done had not the earth been moiftened, we fhould all infallibly have been fuffocated ; and they cau- tioned us, by faying, that tempefts were very fre- quent in the beginning and end of the rainy fea- fon, and whenever we fhould fee one of them co- ming, to fall down upon our faces, keeping our lips clofe to the ground, and fo let it pafs ; and thus it would neither have power to carry us oti our feet, nor fufFocate us, which vv^as the ordina- ry cafe.
Our
174 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Our kind landlords, the Nuba, gave us a hear- ty welcome, and helped us to wafli our clothes fir ft, and then to dry them. When I was ftrip- ped naked, they faw the blood running from my nofe, and faicl^ they could not have thought that one fo \vliite as me could have been capable of bleeding. They gave us a piece of roafted hog, whi^h we ate, (except Ifmael and the Mahome- tans) ver)- much to the fatisfaclion of the Nuba* On the other hand, as our camel was lame, we ordered one of our Maliometan fervants to kill it, and take as much of it as would ferve themfelves that night ; v/e alfo provided againft wanting our- felves the next day. The reft vv^e gave among our ne\v-acquired acquaintance, the Nuba of the vil- lage, who did not fail to make a feaft upon it for feveral days after ; and, in recompenfe for our li- berality, they provided us with a large j?a' of bouza, not verv eood, indeed, but better than the well-water. This 1 reoaid bv tobacco ^ beads, pepper, and ftioium, which I faw plainly was in- finitely m.ore than they expecled. Although v/e had been a good deal farprifed at the fudden and violent effects of the whirlwind of that day, and feverely felt the bruifes it had occaiioned, yet we palfed a very foclal and agreeable evening ; thofe only of the Nuba who had been any time at Sen- naar fpeak a bad kind of Arabic, as well as their own language. I had feldom, in my life, upon a journey, palled a m^ore comfortable night. I had a very neat, clean hut, entirely to myfelf, and a Greek , fervant that fit near me. Som.e of the
Nuba
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 175
Nuba watched for us all night, and took care of our beafts and baggage. They fung and replied to one another alternately, in notes full of plea- fant melody,
Et cantare -pares Esf rcfpondere parati—
i^IRGIJ
till I fell faft aileep, involuntarily, and with re- gret, for tho' bruifed, we were not fatigued, but rather difcouraged, having gone no further than two miles that day.
The landlord of the hut where I was afleep ha- ving prepared for our fafety and that of our bag- gage, thought himfelf bound in duty to go and give immediate information to the prime minif- ter of the unexpe(51:ed gueils that then occupied his houfe. He found Adelan at fupper, but was immediately admitted, and a variety of queilions afked him, which he anfwered fully. He defcri- bed our colour, our number, the unufual iize and number of our firearms, the poornefs of our at- tire, and above all, our great chearfulnefs, quiet- nefs, and afrabiiity, our being contented with eat- ing any thing, and in particular mentioned the hog's iiefli. One man then prefent, teilifying ab- horrence to this, Adelan faid of me to our land- lord, " Why he is a foldier and a Kafr, like your- felf. A foldier and a Kafr when travelling in a ftrange country, iliould eat every thing, and fo does every other n>an that is wife ; has he not a fervant of mine Vvdth him ?" He anfwered, " Yes, and a fervant of the king too ; but
he
176 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
but he had left them, and was gone forward to Sennaar," " Go you with them, fays he, and ftay with them at Bafboch till I have time to fend for them to town." He had returned from Aira long before we arofe, and told us the converfation, which was great comfort to us all, for we were not much pleafed with the king's fervant going before, as we had every reafon to think he was difaffecled towards us.
On the 26th, at fix o'clock in the morning, we fet out from this village of Nuba, keeping fome- thing to the weft-ward of S. W. our way being ftill acrofs this immenfe plain. All the morning there were terrible ftorms of thunder and light- ning, fome rain, and one ihower of fo large drops that it wet us to the ikin in an inftant. It was quite calm, and every drop fell perpendicularly upon us. I think I never in my life felt fo cold a rain, yet it was not difagreeable ; for the day was clofe and hot, and we iliould have w^iilied every now and then to have had fo moderate a refrige- ration ; this, however, was rather too abundant. The villages of the Nuba were, on all fides, throughout this plain. At nine o'clock we arri- ved at Bafboch, which is a large collection of huts of thefe people, and has the appearance of a town.
The "governor, a venerable old man of about feventy, who was fo feeble that he could fcarcely walk, received us with great complacency, only faying, when I took him by the hand, " O Chrif- tian ! what doft thou, at fuch a time, in fuch a country?" I was furprifed at the politenefs of his
fpeech.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 177
his fpeech, when he called me Nazarani, the civil term for Chriftian in the eaft ; whereas Infidel is the general term among thefe brutilh people ; but it feems he had been feveral times at Cairo. I had here a very clean and comfortable hut to lodge in, though we were fparingly fupplied with proviii- ons all the time we were there, but never were fuffered to faft a whole day together.
Bafboch is on the eaftern bank of the Nile, not a quarter of a mile from the ford below. The ri- ver here runs north and fouth ; towards the lides it is fliallow, but deep in the middle of the cur- rent, and in this part it is much infefted with cro- codiles. Sennaar is two miles and a half S. S. W. of it. We heard the evening drum very diftincl- ly, and not without anxiety, v/hen we reflecled to what a brutifh people, according to all ac- counts, we were about to truil ourfelves. The village of Aira, where the vizir Adelan had then his quarters, was three miles fouth and by weft.
Next morning the 27th, Shekh Adelan's fer- vant left us to the charge of the Nuba, to give his mafteran account of his journey, and our fafe ar- rival. He found Mahomet, the king's fervant, our other guide, before him there, and Adelan well inform.ed of all that had paiTed relating to Fidele, though not from Mahomet ; for as foon as he began to mention that he had found us at Teawa, Adelan faid in a very angry ftile, '^ Will no one fave me the difgrace of hanging that wretch ?'' A^delan fent back his fervant to in-
VoL. V. N form
8 78 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
form us, that, two days afterwards, we fliould be admitted. Mahomet, the king's fervant, too^ camxe back with him, and flaid till the evening ^ then he returned to Sennaar ; but he did not give us the fatisfachion to tell us one word of what the king had faid to him about us, or how we were likely to be received, leaving us altogether in fuf- pence.
On the 29th, leave was fent us t-o enter Sen- naar. It was not without fome difficulty that we g-ot our quadrant and heavy baggage fafely carri- ed down the hill, for the banks are very fteep to the edge of the water. The intention of our af- fiftants was to Hide the quadrant down the hill, in its ca-fe, which would have utterly deftroyed it ; and as our boat was but a very indifferent em- barkation, it was obliged to make feveral turns to and fro before we got all our feveral packages landed on the weilern iide. This alTemblage, and the paiTage of our camels, feemed to have excited the appetite, or the curioiity, of the crocodiles.
One, in particular, fwam feveral times back- wards and forwards along the iide of the boat, without, however, making any attack upon any of us ; but, being exceedingly tired of fuch com- pany, upon his fecond or third venture over, I fired at him with a rifle-gun, and fhot him di- rectly under his fore flioulder in the belly. The wound was undoubtedly mortal and very few ?nimals could have lived a moment after recei- ving it. He, however, dived to the bottom, lea- ving
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 179
ving the water deeply tinged with his blood. Nor did we fee him again at that time ; but the peo- ple at the ferry brought him to me the day after, having found hin> perfectly dead. He was about tv/elve feet long ; and the boatmen told me that thele are by much the moft dangerous, beinp- more fierce and active than the large ones. The people of Sennaar eat the crocodile, efpecially the Nuba. I never tailed it myfelf, but it looks ve- ry much like the Conger eel.
N2 CHAR
i8o . TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
CHAP. VIIL
Converfation with the King — With Shekh Jdelaii-^ Interview with the King^s Ladies^ kc, &c.
We were condu6led by Adelan's fervant to a very fpacious good houfe belonging to the Shekh himfelf, having two ftorys, a long quarter of a mile from the king's palace. He left a meffagc for us to repofe ourfelves, and in a day or two to wait upon the king, and that he Ihould fend to tell us when we were to come to him. This we refolved to have complied with moft exactly ; but the very next morning, the 30th of April, there came a fervant from the palace to fummon us to wait upon the king, which we immediately obeyed. I took with me three fervants, black Soliman, Ifmael the Turk, and my Greek fervant Michael- The palace covers a prodigious deal of ground. It is all of one ftory, built of clay, and the fioors of earth. The chambers through which we paf- fed were all unfurniihed, and feemed as if a great many of them had formerly been deftined as bar- racks
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. i8i
racks for foldiers, of whom I did not fee above fifty on guard. The king was in a fmall room, not twenty feet fquare, to which we afcended by two fliort flights of narrow fteps. The floor of the room was covered with broad fquare tiles ; over it was laid a Per flan carpet, and the walls hung with tapefl:ry of the fame country j the whole very well kept, and in good order.
The king was fitting upon a mattrefs, laid on the ground, which was likewife covered with a Perflan carpet, and round him was a number of cufliions of Venetian cloth of gold. His drefs did not correfpond with this magnificence, for it was nothing but a large, loofe fliirt of Surat blue cot- ton cloth, which feemed not to differ from the fame w^orn by his fervants, except that, ah round the edges of it, the feams were double-ftitched with white filk, and likewife round the neck. His head was uncovered ; he wore his own fliort black hair, and was as white in colour as an Arab. He feemed to be a man about thirty-four, his feet were bare, but covered bv his fliirt. He had 2l very plebeian countenance, on which was ftamp- ed no decided character ; I fliould rather guefs him to be a foft, timid, irrefolute man. At my coming forward and killing his hand, he looked at me for a minute as if undetermined what to fay. He then afl^ed for an Abyffinian interpreter, as there are many of thefe about the palace. I faid to him in Arabic, " That I apprehended I underftood as much of that language as would enable me to anfwer any quefl:ion he had to put
to
1 82 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
to me." Upon which he turned to the people that were with him, " Downright Arabic, in- deed ! You did rot learn that lanscuao^e in Ka- befh r" faid he to me. I anfwered^ " No ; I have been in Egypt, Turkey, and Arabia, where I learned it ; but I have likewife often fpoken it in Abyffinia, where Greek, Turkiih, and feveral other languages, were ufed." He faid, " Inipof- iible ! he did not think they knew any thing of languages, excepting their own, in Abyilinia."
There were fitting in the lide of the room, op- posite to him, four men dreffed in white cotton Ihirts, with a white Ciaul covering* their heads and part of their face, by which it was known they were religious men, or men of learning, or of the law. One of thefe anfwered the king's doubt of the Abyllinians knowledge in languages. '' They have languages enough ; and you know that Habeili is called the paradife of alTes." Dur- ing this converfation, I took the iherriffe of Mec- ca's letter, alfo one from the king of Abyffinia ; I gave him the king's firft, and then the Iher- riffe's. He took them both as 1 gave them, but laid afide the king's upon a cufiiion, till he had read the Iherrifie's. After this he read the king's, and called immediately again for an Abyffinian interpreter ; upon which I faid nothing, fup- pofing, perhaps, he might chufe to make him de- liver fome meffage to me in private, which he would not have his people hear. But it was pure confuiion and abfence of mind, for he never fpoke a word to him when he came. " You are a phy-
iician
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 183
fician and a foldier," fays the king. " Both, in time of need," faid I. " But the {herriife's let- ter tells me alfo, that you are a nobleman m the fervice of a great king that they call Englife-man, who is mader of all the Indies, and who has Ma- hometan as well as Chriftian fubjecls, and allows them all to be governed by their owji laws."- — " Though I never f^^id fo to the IherrifFe, replied I, yet it is true ; I am as noble as any indivi- dual in my nation, and am alfo fervant to the greateft king now reigning upon earth, of whofe dominions, it is likev/ife truly faid, thefe Indies are but ?. fmall part." — " The greateft king ! fays he that fpoke about the aifes, you ihould not fay that I You forgot the grand fignior ; there are four, Otman, Ferfee, Eornow, and Habeih." — * - I neither forgot the grand fignior, nor do him wrong, replied I. What I have faid, I have faid." — *' Kafrs and llaves ! all of them, fays Ifm.ael : there is the Turk, tb king of England, and the king of France ; what kings are Bornow and rhe reft ?— Kafrs." — " How comes it, fays the king, you that are fo noble and learned, that you know all things, all languages, and lb brave that you fear no danger, but pafs, with two or three old men, into fuch countries as this and Habefh, where Baady my father perifhed with an army ? how comes it that you do not ftay at home and enjoy yourfelf, eat, drink, take pleafure and reft^ and not wander like a poor man, a prey to every danger?" — " You, Sir, I replied, may know fome of this fort of men j certainly you do knov
therr
iS4 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
them y for there are in your religion, as well as mine, men of learning, and thofe too of great rank and nobility, who, on account of lins they have committed, or vows they have made, re- nounce the world, its riches and pleafures: They lay down their nobility, and become humble and poor, fo as often to be infulted by wicked and low men, not having the fear of God before their eyes." — " True, thefe are Dervifh," faid the other three men. " I am then one of thefe Der- vifh, faid I, content with the bread that is given me, and bound for fome years to travel in hard- fhips and danger, doing all the good I can to poor and rich, ferving every man, and hurting none." " Tybe! that is well," fays the king. " And how long have you been travelling about ?" adds one of the others. " Near twenty years," faid I. — " You muil be very young, fays the king, to have committed fo many iins, and fo early ; they muft all have been with women ?" — " Part of them, I fuppofe, were, replied I ; but I did not fay that I was one of thofe who travelled on ac- count of their lins, but that there were fome Der- vilhes that did fo on account of their vows, and fome to learn wifdom.." He now made a lig-n, and a Have brought a cufliion, which I would have refufed, but he forced me to fit down upon it.
I found afterwards who the three men were who had joined in our converfation ; the firft was li Mogrebi, a native of Morocco, who was Cadi, chief judge at Sennaar, and was then fallen
into
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 185
into difgrace with the two brothers, Mahomet Abou Kalec, governor of Kordofan, and Shekh Adelan, prime minifler at Sennaar, then encamp- ed at Aira at the head of the horfe and Nuba, le- vying the tax upon the Arabs as they went down out of the limits of the rains, into the fandy coun- tries below Atbara to protect their cattle from the fly. Another of thefe three v/as Cadi of Kor- dofan, in the intereR of Mahomet Abou Kalec, and fpy upon the king. The third was a faint in the neighbourhood, confer vat or of a large extent of ground, where great crops of dora not only grow, but when threfhed out are likewife kept in large excavations called Matam.ores ; the place they call Shaddly. This man v/as efteemed ano- ther Jofeph among the Funge, who accumulated grain in years of plenty, that he might diftribute it at iinail prices among the poor when fcarcity came. He was held in very great reverence in the neighbourhood of Sennaar.
The cadi then afked me, " If i knev/ when Hagiuge Magiuge was to com.e ? Rem.embering my old learned friend at Teawa, I fcaixe could forbear laughing. " I have no wiih to know any thing about him, faid I ; I hope thofe days are far off, and will not happen in my tim.e." " Vv^hat do your books fay concerning him ? (fays he, af- fecting a great look of wifdom) Do they agree with ours ?" " I don't know that, faid I, till I hear what is written in your books." " Hagiuge Magiuge, fays he, are httle people, not fo big as bees, or like the zimb, or fly of Sennaar, that
come
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come in great fwarms out of the earth, aye, in multitudes that cannot be counted ; two of their chiefs are to ride upon an afs, and every hair of that afs is to be a pipe, and every pipe is to play a different kind of mulic, and all that hear and follow them are carried to hell." '^ I know them not, faid I, and, in the name of the Lord, I fear thera not, were they twice as little as you fay they are, and twice as numerous. I truft in God I iliali never be fo iond of niufic as to go to hell af- ter an afs for all the tunes that he or they can play." The khig laughed violently. I rofe to go away, for I was heartily tired of ^the converfation. I whifpered the AbyiTmian fervant in Amharic, to aik when I Ihould bring a trifle I had to offer the king. He (aid, not that night, as I fhould be tired, but deiired that I Ihould now go home, and lie would fend me notice when to come. I accordingly went away, and found a number of people in the ftreet, all having fomie taunt or affronting matter to fay. I paffed through the great fquare before the palace, and could not help {huddering upon reflection, at what had happened in that fpot to the unfortunate M. du Roule and his companions, though under a protection which ihould have fecured them from all danger, every part of which I was then unprovided with.
The drum beat a little after fix o'clock in the evenincc. We then had a verv comfortable din- ner fent us, camels iiefli fie wed with an herb of a vifcous flimy fubflance, called Bammia. After having dined, and fmifhed the journal of the day,
I fell
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 187
I fell to unpacking my inflruments, the barome- ter and thermometer firft, and after having hung them up, was converiing with Adelan's fervant when I fhould pay my vifit to his mafter. About eight o'clock camie a fervant from the palace, tel- ling roe now was the time to bring the prefent to the king. I forted the feparate articles with all the fpeed I could, and we went direclly to tlie palace. The king was then fitting in a large apartment, as far as I could guefs, at fome diftance from the former. He was naked, but had feve- rai clothes lying upon his knee, and about him, and a fervant was rubbing him. over with very flinkinix butter or sfreafe, with which his hair uas dropping as if wet with water. Large as the room w^as, it could be Imelled throus^h the whole of it. The king ailved me, if ever I greafed myfelf as he did ? I faid, very feldom, but fancied it would be very expenfive. He then told mic. That it was elephant's greafe, which miade people ftrong, and preferved the ikin very fmiooth. I faid, I thought it very proper, but could not bear the fmell of it, though my Ikin fiiould turn as rough as an ele- phant's for the want of it. He faid, " If I had ufed it, n>y hair v/ould not have turned fo red as it was, and that it would all become white pre- fently when that rednefs came off. You may fee the Arabs driven in here by the Daveina, and ail their cattle taken from them, becaufe they have no longer any greafe for their hair. The fun firft turns it red and then perfeclly white ; and you'll know them in the ftreet by their hair being
the
1 83 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the colour of yours. As for the fmell, you will fee that cured prefently."
After having rubbed him abundantly with greafe, they brought a pretty large horn, and in it fomething fcented, about as liquid as honey. It was plain that civet was a great part of the compoiition. The king went out at the door, I fuppofe into another room, and there two men deluged him over with pitchers of cold water, whilft, as I imagine, he was ftark- naked. He then returned, and a ilave anointed him with this fweet ointment ; after which he fat down, as completely dreffed, being juft going to his wo- men's apartment where he was to fup. I told hini I wondered why he did not ufe rofe -water as in AbyiTmia, Arabia and Cairo. He faid, he had it often from Cairo, when the merchants arrived ; but as it was now long fmce any came, his people could not make more, for the rofe would not grow in his country, though the women made fomething; like it of leraon-fiow^er.
His toilet being finiihed, I then produced miy prefect which I told him the king of Abyflinia had fent to him, hoping that, according to the faith and cuilom of nations, he v/ould not only protect me while here, but fend me fafely and fpeedlly out of his dominions into Egypt. He anfwered. There Vv'as a time when he could have done all this, and miOre, but thofe times were changed. Sennaar was in ruin, and was not like what it once was. He then ordered fome per- fumed forbet to be brought for vnQ to drink in
his \ •' . ■
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 189
his prefence, which is a pledge that your perfon is in fafety. I thereupon withdrew, and he went to his ladies.
It was not till the eighth of May I had my au- dience of Shekh Adelan at Aira, which is three miles and a half from Sennaar ; we walked out early in the morning, for the greateft part of the way along the fide of the Nile, which had no beauty, being totally divefted of trees,, the bot- tom foul and muddy, and the edges of the water white with fmall concretions of calcarious earth, which, with the bright fun upon them, dazzled and affected our eyes very much.
We then flruck acrofs a large fandy plain with- out trees or bufhes, and came to Adelan's habi- tation ; two or three very ccnfiderable houfes of one ftory occupied the m.iddle of a large fquare, each of whofe fides was at leaR half of an Englifli mile. Inflead of a wail to inclofe this fquare, was a high fence or impalement of ftrong reeds, canes or flalks of dora^ (I do not know which j in faf- pnes ftrongly joined together by flakes and cords. On the outfide of the gate, on each hand, were fix houfes of a flighter conftruction than the reft ; ciofe upon the fence were ilieds where the fol- diers lay, the horfes picqueted before them with their heads turned towards the flieds, and their food laid before them on the ground 5 above each foldier's fleeping-place, covered only on the top and open in the fides, were hung a lance, a fmall oval flneld, and a large broad-fword. Theie, I underftood, were chiefly quarters for couriers,
who
I90 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
who being Arabs, were not taken into the court or fquare, but fhut out at night.
Within the gate was a number of horfes, with the foldiers barracks behind them ; they were all picqueted in ranks, their faces to their mailers barracks. It was one of the fined fights I ever faw of the kind. They were all above fixteen hands high, of the breed of the old Saracen horfes, all finely made, and as fi:rong as our coach-horfes, but exceedingly nimble in their motion ; rather thick and Ihort in the forehand, but with the moil beautiful eyes, ears^ and heads in the world; they were moftly black, fome of them black and white, fome of them milk-white foaled, fo not white by age, with white eyes and ^ white hoofs, not perhaps a great recommendation.
A fteel iliirt of mail hung upon each man's quarters oppoiite to his horfe, and by it an ante- lope's ikin made foft like ihamiOy, with which it was covered from the dew of the night. A head- piece of copper, without creil or plumage, was fufpended by a lace above the fliirt of mail, and was the m.oil pidureique part of the trophy. To thefe was added an enormous broad-fv/ord in a red leather fcabbard ; and upon the pummel hung two thick gloves, not divided into fingers as ours, but like hedgers gloves, their lingers in one poke. They told me, that within that inclofure at Aira, there were 400 horfes, which with the riders, and armour complete for each of them, were all the property of Shekh Adelan, every horfeman being his ilave, and bought with his money. There
were
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 191
were five or fix (I know not which; of thefe fquares or inclofures, none of them half a mile from the other, which contained the kino;'s horfes, flaves and fervants. Whether they were all in as good order as Adelan's I cannot fay, for I did not go further ; but no body of horfe could ever be more magnificently difpofed under the di» redion of any Chrifi:ian power.
Adelan was then fitting upon a piece of the trunk of a palm-tree, in the front of one of thefe divifions of his horfes, which he feemed to be contemplating with pleafure ; a number of black people, his own fervants and friends, were ftand- ing around him. He had on a long drab-coloured camlet gown, lined with yellow fattin, and a cam- let cap like a head-piece, with two ihort points that covered his ears. This, it feems, was his drefs when he rofe early in the mcrninrr to vifit his horfes, which he never neglecled. The Shekh was a man above fix feet high, and rather corpu- lent, had a heavy walk, feemingly more fi'om affectation of grandeur than want of agilitv. He was about fixty, of the colour and features of an Arab and not of a Negro, but had rather more beard than falls to the lot of people in this coun- try ; large piercing eyes, and a determined, tho', at the fame time, a very pleafing countenance. Upon my coming near him he got up, " You that are a horfeman, (fays he, without any falutation) what would your king of Habefh give for thefe horfes?" — What king, anfwered I, in the fame tone, would not give any price for fiich horfes if
he
;92 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER.
he knew their value ?"--<=• Well, replies he, in a lower voice, to the people about him, if we are forced to go to liabeih (as Baady was) we will carry our horfes along with us." I underflood by this he alluded to the ilfue of his approaching quarrel with the king.
We then went into a large faloon, hung round w^ith mirrors and fcarlet dainafk ; in one of the longell iides, were two large fofa's covered with crimfon and yellow damalk, and large cufhions of cloth of gold, like to the king's. He now pul» led ofFhis camlet gown and cap, and remained in a crimfon fattin coat reachins: down below his knees, which lapped over at the breaft, and was girt round his waift Vvith a fcarf or fafli, in which he had iluck a fhort dagger in an ivory fheath, mounted with gold ; and one of the largeft and moft beautiful amethyfts upon his finger that ever I faw, m.ounted plain, without any diamonds, and a fmall gold ear-ring in one of his ears.
" Why have you come hither, fays he to me, without arms, and on foot, and without atten- dants ?" Tagoube, " I was told that horfes were not kept at Sennaar, and brought none with me.'* Adelan, " You iuppofe you have come through great dangers, and fo you have. But what do you think of me, who am day and night out in the fields, furrounded by hundreds and thoufands of Arabs, all of whom would eat me alive if they dared?" I anfwered, " K brave man, ufed to commiand as you are, does not look to the num- ber of his enemies, but to their abilities ; a wolf
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 193
does not fear ten tiioufand flieep more than he does one." Ad, " True ; look out at the door ; thefe are their chiefs whom I am now taxing, and I have brought them hither that they may judge from what theyXee whether 1 am ready for them or not." Tag. " You could not do more pro- perly ; but, as to my own affairs, 1 wait upon you from the king of Abyflinia, defiring fafe conduct through your country into Egypt, with his royal promife, that he is ready to do the like for you again, or any other favour you may call upon him for." He took the letter and read it. Ad. *' The king of Abyilinia may be aiTured 1 am al- ways ready to do more for him than this. It is true, lince the mad attempt upon Sennaar, and the next ftill madder, to replace old Baady upon the throne, we have had no formal peace, but neither are we at war. We underftand one ano- ther as good neighbours ought to do ; and what elfe is peace ?" Tag. " You know I am a ftranger and traveller, feeking my way home. I have no- thing to do with peace or war between nations. All I beg is a fafe conduct through your king- dom, and the rights of hofpitality beil owed infuch cafes on every common ftranger ; and one of the favours I beg is, your acceptance of a fmall pre- fent. I bring it not from home ; I have been long abfent from thence, or it would have been bet- ter." Ad, " I'll not refufe it, but it is quite un- neceftary. I have faults like other men, but to hurt, or ranfom ftrangers, was never one of them. Mahomet Abou Kalec^ my brother, is however a Vol. V. O much
f94 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
much better man to ftrangers than I am ; yon will be lucky if you meet him here; if not, I will do for you what I can when once the confuiion of thefe Arabs is over.
I gave him the flierrifte's letter, which he open- ed, looked at, and laid by without reading, fay- ing only, " Aye, Metical is a good man, he fome». times takes care of our people going to Mecca ;. for my part, I never was there, and probably ne- ver ihail."^ I then prefented my letter from A Is Bey to him. Replaced it upon his knee, and gave a flap upon it with his open hand. Ad, " What I do you not know, have you not licard, Mahomet Abou Dahab, his Hafnadar, has rebelled againft Mm, baniflied him out of Cairo, and now fits in his place ? But don*t be difconcerted at that, I know you to be a man of honour and prudence ; if Mahomet, my brother, does not come, as foon as I can get leifure I will difpatch you,'* The fer- vant that had conducted m.e to Sennaar, and was then with us, went forward clofe to him, and faid, in a kind of whifper, " Should he go often to the king ? — " When he pleafes ; he may go to fee the town, and take a walk, but never alone, and alfo to the palace, that, when he returns to his own country, he may report he faw a king at Sennaar, that neither knows how to govern, nor will fuffer others to teach him ; who knows not hovv to make war, and yet will not fit in peace.'* I then took my leave of him, but there was a plen- tiful breakfaft in the other room, to which he fent us, and Vv^hich went far to comfort Hagi Ifmael
for
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 195
for the misfortune of his patron Ali Bey. At go- ing out, I took my leave by killing his hand, which he fubmittedto without reluctance. "Shekh, faid I, when I pafs thefe Arabs in the fquare, I hope it will not difoblige you if I converfe with fome of them out of curiofity ?" Jd, " By no means, as much as you pleafe ; but don't let them know where they can find you at Sennaar, or they will be in your houfe from morning till nighty will eat up all your victuals, and then, in return- will cut your throat if they can meet you upon your journey/'
I returned home to Sennaar, very well pleafed with my reception at Aira. I had not feen, iinc€ I left Gondar, a man fo open and frank in his manners, and who fpoke without difguife what apparently he had in his heart ; but he was ex- ceedingly engaged in bufinefs, and it was of fuch extent that it feemed to me impoffible to be brought to an end in a much longer time than I propofed ftaying at Sennaar. The diflance, too, between Aira and that town was a very great dif- couragement to me. The whole way was covered with infolent, brutiili people, fo that every man we met between Sennaar and Aira produced fome altercation, fome demand of prefents, gold, cloth, tobacco, and a variety of other difagreeable cir- cumftances, which had always the appearance of ending in fomething ferious.
I had a long converfation with the Arabs I met with at Aira^ and from them I learned pretty nearly the iituation of the difFcrent clans or tribes
O 3 . in
196 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
in Atbara. Thefe were all in their way north- ward to the refpeclive countries in the fands to the eaftward of Mendera and Barbar. Thefe fands, fo barren and defolate the reft of the year, were bescinninof now to be crowded with multitudes of cattle and inhabitants. The fly, in the flat and fertile mold which compofes all the foil to the fouthward of Sennaar, had forced this number of people to migrate, which they very well knew was to coft them at leaft one h?Jf of their fub- ftance ; oF fuch confequence is the weakeft in- ftrument in the hand of Providence. The troops of Senriaar, few in number, but well provided with every thing, ftood ready to cut thefe people off from their accefs to the fands, till every chief of a tribe had given in a well-verified inventory of his whole ilock, and made a compofition, at palling, with Shekh Adelan.
All fubterfuge was in vain. The fly, in pofTef- fion of the fertile country, inexorably purfued every iingle camel till he took refuge in the fands, and there he v/as to ftay till the rains ceafed ; and if, in the interim, it was difcovered that any con- cealment of number or quality had been made, they were again to return in the beginning of September to their old paftures ; and in this fe- cond paiiage, any fraud, whether real or alledged was punifhed with great fe verity. Reiiftance had been often tried, and as often found ineffeclual. However great their numbers, encumbered with families and baggage as they were, they had al- ways fallen a facrilice to thofe troops, well mount- ed
^ • THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 197
ed and armed, that awaited them in their way within light of their own homes. Arrived once in the flrnds, they were quiet during the rains, having paid their palTage northward, and fo they were afterwards, for the fame reafon, when they came again to their own flation, fouthward when thofe rains had ceafed.
It may be alked reafonably, What does the go- vernment of Sennaar do with that immenfe num- ber of camels which they receive from all thofe tribes of Arabs in their palTage by Sennaar ? To this I anfwer, That all this tribute is not paid in kind. The different tribes polTefling fo m.any ca- mels, or fo many other cattle, have a quantum laid upon them at an average value. This is paid in gold, or in ilaves, the reil in kind ; fo many for the maintenance of the king and government; for there is no flefli commonly ufedat Sennaar in the markets but that of camels. The reiidue is bought by the merchants of Dongola, and fent into Egypt, where they fupply that great con- fum.ption of thefe animals made every year by the caravans going to Mecca.
One thing had made a very ftrong impreffion on me, v/hich was the contemptuous m^anner in v/hich Adelan expreifed himfelf as to his fbve- reign. I was fatisfied that, withfome addrefs, I could keep myfelf in. favour with either of them ; but in the terms they then were, or were very foon to be,' I could not but fear I was likely to fall into trouble betv/een the two.
The
1^8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
The next morning, after I came home from Aira, I was agreeably furprifed by a vifit from Hagi Eelal, to whom I had been recommended by Metical Aga, and to whom Ibrahim SerafF, the Englifh broker at Jidda, had addrelled me for any money I ihbuld need at Sennaar. He welcomed me with great kindnefs, and repeated teftimonies of joy and wonder at my fafe arrival. He had been down in Atbara at Gerri, or fome villages near it, with merchandize, and had not yet feen the king fmce he came home, but gave me the very worft defcription poffible of the coun- try, infomuch that there feemed tobe not a fpot, but the one I then flood on, in which I was not in imminent danger of deftruclion, from a variety of independent caufes, which it feemed not poffi- bly in my power to avoid. He fent me in the evening fome refrefhments, Vv^hich I had long been unaccuftomedto; fome tea, excellent coffee, fome honey and brown fugar, feveral bottles of rack, likewife nutmegs, cinnamon, ginger, and fome very good dates of the dry kind which he
had brought from Atbara.
Hagi Belal was a native of Morocco. He had
been at Cairo, and alfo at Jidda and Mocha. He knew the Engliih v/eli, and profeffed himfelf both obliged and attached to them. It was fome days before I ventured to fpeak to him upon money bufmefs, or upon any probability of finding if- fiftance here at Sennaar. He gave me little hopes of the latter, repeating to me what I very well knew about the dlfagreement of the king and
Adelan.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 1^9
Adelan. He feemed to place all his expeclations, and thofe were but faint ones, in the coming of Shekh Abou Kalec from Kordofan. He faid, no- thing could be expeded fromShckh Adelan with- out going to Aira, for that he would never trufl himfelf in Sennaar, in this king's lifetime, but that the minifter was abfolute the moment he af= fembled his troops without the town.
One morning he came to me, after having been with the king, when I was myfelf preparing to go to the palace. He faid, he had been fent for upon my account, and had been queftioned very narrowly what fort of a man I was. Having an- fwered very favourably, both of me and my nati- on, he w^as aCked for Metical Aga*s letters, or any other letters he had received concerning me from Jidda 5 he faid, that he had only fhewn Metical's ietter,wrote in the name of the flierriffe, as alfo one from himfelf ; that there were feveral great officers of government prefent ; andthe Cadi (whom 1 had feen the firft time I had been with the king) had read the letters aloud to them all : That one of them had alked. How it came that fuch a man as I ventured to pafs thefe deferts, with four or live old fervants, and what it was I came to fee ; that he anfvvered, he apprehended my chief objed: at Sennaar was to be forwarded to my own country. It was alfo aiked. Why I had not fome Englifh- men with me, as none of my fervants were of that nation, but poor beggarly Kopts, Arabs, and Turks, who were none of them of my religion ?
Belal
200 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Belal anfwered, That travellers through thefe countries mull: take up with fuch people as they can find going the fame way ; however, he be- lieved fome Englifh fervants had died in Aby- flinia, which country I had left the firft opportu- nity that had offered, being Vv'caried by the per«. petual war which prevailed. Upon which the king faid, " He has chofen well, when he came into this country for peace. You know, Hagi Belal, I can do nothing for him ; there i? nothing in my hands. 1 could eafier get him back into Abyffinia than forward him into Egypt. V/ho is it now that can pafs into Egypt ? '^ The Cadi then faid, " Hagi Belal can get him to Suakem, and fo to Jidda to his countrym.en." To which Belal replied, " The king will find fome way when he thinks farther of it."
A few days after this I had a melTage from the palace. I found the king fitting alone, apparently much chagrined, and in ill-humour. He aiked me, in a verypeevifh manner, " If I was not yet gone ?" To which I anfwered, " Your Majefty knows that it is impofiible for me to go a fi:ep from Sennaar without aifiRance from you." He again a&ed me, in the fame tone as before, " How, I could think of coming that way ?" I faid, no- body imagined in Abyfiinia but that he was able to give a llranger fafe conduct through his ow^n dominions/' He made no reply, but nodded a fign for me to depart, which I immediately did, and fo finifiied this Ihort, but difagreeable inter- view.
About
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 201
About four o'clock that fame afternoon I was again fent for to the palace, when the king told me t^.at feveral of his wives were ill, and defired that i would give them my advice, which I pro- mifed to do without difficulty, as all acquaintance with the fair fex had hitherto been much to my advir;tage. I muft confefs, however, that calling thefe the fair fex is not preferving a precifion in terms, I was admitted into a large fquare apart- ment very ill-lighted, in which were about fifty w^omen, all perfectly black, w ithout any cover- ing but a very narrow piece of cotton rag about their waillis. While I was mufins: w^hether or not thefe all might be queens, or whether there was any queen among them, one of them took me by the hand and led me rudely enough into ano- ther apartment. This was much better lighted than the iirft. Upon a large bench, or fofa, co- vered with blue Surat cloth, fat three perfons cloathed from the neck to the feet with blue cot- ton ihirts. '
One of thefe, who I found w^as the favourite,^ was about fix feet high,- and corpulent beyond all proportion. She feemed to me, next to the ele phant and rhinoceros, to be the largeft living creature I had met wdth. Her features were per, feclly like thofe of a Negro ; a ring of gold pafied through her under lip, and weighed it down, till, like a flap, it covered her chin, and left her teeth bare, which were very fmall and fine. The infide of her lip Ihe had made black with antimony. Her ears reached down to her fhoylders, and had
the
202 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the appearance of wings ; fhe had in each of them a large ring of gold, fomewhat fmaller than a man's little finger, and about five inches diameter. The weight of thefe had drawn down the hole where her ear w^as pierced fo much that three fingers might eafiiy pafs above the ring. She had a gold necklace, like what we ufed to call Efcla- vage, of feveral rows, one below another, to which were hung rows of fequins pierced. She had on her ancles two manacles of gold, larger than any I had ever feen upon the feet of felons, %yith which I could not conceive it v^^as poflible for her to walk, but afterwards I found they were hollo\v. The others were drelTed pretty much in the fame m.anner ; only there v/as one that had chains which came from her ears to the outfide of each noftril, where they w^ere faftened. There was alfo a ring put thro' the griille of her nofe, and w^hich hung down to the opening of her mouth. 1 think fhe muft have breathed with great difficulty. It had altogether fomiething of the appearance of a horfe's bridle. Upon my com- ing near them, the eldeft put her hand to her mouth and kilTed it, faying, at the fame time, in very vulgar Arabic, " Kifhalek howaja ?" (how do you do, merchant). I never in my life was more pleafed with diftant falutations than at this time. I anfwered, " Peace be among you ! I am a phyfician, and not a merchant/'
I fhali not entertain the reader with the multi- tude of their complaints; being a lady's phyfician, difcretion and filence are my firft duties. It is
fufficient
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. - 203^
fufficient to fay, that there was not one part of their whole bodies, iniide and outfide, in which fome of them had not ailments. The three queens infifted upon being blooded, which defire I com- plied with, as it w^as an operation that required iliort attendance ; but, upon producing the lan- cets, their hearts failed them. They then all cried out for the Tabange, which, in Arabic, means a piftol ; but what they meant by this word was, the cupping inftrumicnt, which goes oiF with a fpring like the fnap of a piftol. I had two of thefe with me, but not at that time in m.y pocket. I fent my fervant hom.e, however, to bring one, and, that fame evening, performed the operation upon the three queens with great fuccefs. The room was overflowed w ith an effulion of royal blood, and the whole ended Vv-ith their infifting upon my giving them the inilrum.ent itfelf, which I was obliged to do, after cupping two of their flaves before them, who had no com.Dlaint.s, mere- ly to iliew them how the operation was to be per- formed.
Another night I was obliged to attend them, and gave the queens, and two or three of the great ladies, vomits. I Vv-ill fpare my reader the recital of fo naufeous a fcene. The ipecacuanha had great eiFecl, and warm water was drunk very copiouiiy. The patients were numerous, and the fioor of the room received all the evacuations. It was moit prodigioufly hot, and the horrid, black figures, moaning and groaning with iicknefs all iround me, gave me, I think, fome flight idea of
the
204 TRAVELS TO. DISCOVER
the punifliment in the world below. My morti- fications, however, did not ftop here, lobferved that, in corning into their prefence, the queens ■were all covered with cotton iliirts; but no fooner did their complaints make part of our converfa- tion, than, to my utmoil furprife, each of them, in her turn, ftript herfelf entirely naked, laying her cotton fhirt loolely on her lap as fhe fat crofs- leo'ged like a tailor. The cuftom of going naked in thefe warm countries abolifhes all delicacy concerning it. I could not but obferve that the brealls of each of them reached the length of their knees.
This exceeding confidence on their part, they thouo'ht merited. fome coniideration on mine; and it v.'as not without great aftoniiliment that I heard the queen deiire to fee me in the like diftia- bille in which llie had fpontaneouily put herfelf. The whole court of female attendants flocked to the fpeclacle. Refufal, or refiftance, were in vain. I was furrounded with fifty or fixty women, all equal in ilature and ftrength to myfelf. The whole of miy cloathing w^as, like theirs, a long loofe {hirt of blue Surat cotton cloth, reaching from the neck down to the feet. The only term.s I could poilibly, and that with great difficulty, make for myfelf were, that they fhould be con- tented to ftrip me no farther than the flioulders and bread. Upon feeing the whitenefs of ray fkin, they gave all a loud cry in token of diflike, and Ihuddered, feeming to confider it rather the efifecls of difeafe than natural. I think in my life
I never
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 205
I never felt fo dinigreeably. I have been In more than one battle, but furely I would iovfullv have taken my chance again in any of them to have been freed from that examination. I could not help likevi'ife reflecling, that, if the king had come in during this exhibition, the confequence would either have been impaling, or flripping off that Ikin vvhofe colour they were fo curious about ; tho' I can folemnlv declare there was not an idea in my breaft, iince ever I had the honour of fee- ing thefe royal beauties, that could have given his majefty of Sennaar the fmalleft reafon for jea- loufy ; and I believe the fame may be faid of the fentiments of the ladies in what r€s:arded me. Ours was a mutual paffion, but dangerous to no one concerned. I returned home with very dif- ferent fenfations from thofe I had felt after an interview with the beautiful Aifcach of Teawa. Indeed, it was impoffible to be more chagrined at, or more difgufted with, my prefent fituation than 1 was, and the m.ore fo, that my delivery from it appeared to be very diflant, and the cir- cumftances were more and more unfavourable every day.
An event happened which added to my cliilrefs. Going one evening to wait upon the king, and being already within the palace, paffing through a number of rooms that are now totally deferted, where the court of guard ufed to be kept, I met Mahomet, the king's fervant, who accompanied us from Teawa. Such people, though in reality often enough drunk, yet if they happen to be fo-«
2o6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ber at the time of their committing a crime, counterfeit,drunkennefs, in order to avail them- felves of it as an excuie. This fellow, feeing me alone, came daggering up to me, faying, " Damn you, Yagoube, I have met you now, pay me for the trouble of going for you to Teawa ;" and with that he put his arm to lay hold of me by the breaft. I faid to him, " OfFhands, you ruffian ;'* and, taking him by the arm, I gave him fuch a, pufh that he had very near fallen backward ; on which he cried out, in great fury, " Give me fifty patakas (about twelve guineas) or I'll ham- firing you this inftant." I had always piftols in my pocket for an extremity; but I could not con- fider this drunkard, though armed, to have re- duced me to that fituation ; I therefore imimedi- ately clofed upon him, and, catching him by the throat, gave him a violent wrench backward, which threw him upon the ground. I then took his fword out of his hand ; and in the inftant my black fervant Soliman appeared, who had i]:aid> behind converfmg with fome acquaintance in the ftreer. Several other black companions of this rafcal likev/ife appeared ; part feemed to defend, and part to intercede for him, but none to con- demn him. Soiim.an, however, iniifted upon car- rying him before the king with his drawn fw^ord in his hand. But how were we furprifed, when the king's anfwer to our complaint was, " That the man was drunk, and that the people in that country were not ufed to fee franko, like me, walking in the ilreet.*' He then gave Soliman a
iliarp
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 207
Iharp reproof for having the prefumption, as he called it, to difarm one of his fervants in his pa- lace, and immediately ordered his fword to be reftored him.
We v/ere retiring full of thoughts what might be the occafion of this reception, when we were met by Kittou, i^delan's brother, who was left with the care of the town. I told the whole af- fair. He heard me very attentively, and vvith apparent concern. " It is all the king's fault ; every Have does what he pleafes, faid he. If I mention this to Adelan, he will order the drun- kard's head to be ftruck off before the palace-gate. But it is better for you that nothing of this kind happen while you are here. Mahomet Abou Kalec is daily expected, and all thefe things will be put upon another footing. Jn the miean time, keep athome as much as poUible, and never go out without two or three black people. along v/ith you, fervants or others. While you are in my bro- ther's houfe, as you now are, and we alive, there is no body dares m.oleft you, and you are perfeclly at liberty to refufe or adm.it any perfon you pleafe^ whether they come from the king or not, by only faying, Adelan forbids you. I will anfwer for the reft. The lefs you come here the better, and never venture into the ftreet at night."
At this inftant a meirao;e from the kini^ called him in. I went away better fatisfied than before, becaufe I now had learned there was a place in that town where I could remain in fafety, and I was refolved there to await the arrival of Abou
Kalec,
2oS TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Kalec, to whom I looked up as to the means Pro- vidence was to ufe to free me from the deiigns the king was apparently meditating againfl me. I was more confirmed in the belief of thefe bad intentions, by a converfation he had with Hagi Belal, to whom he faid, That he was very credi- bly informied I had along with me above 2000 ounces of gold, befides a quantity of lilver, and rich embroideries from India, from which lafi: place, and not from Cairo, 1 was come as a mer- chant, and not a phyiician. I refolved, therefore, to keep clofe at home, and to put into fomeform the obfervations that I had made upon this ex- traordinary government ; a monarchy that had ftarted up, as it Vv'cre, in our days, and of which no traveller has as yet given the fmalleft ac- count.
CHAP,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 209
CHAP. IX.
Cmverfations ivith Achmei — Hi/iory and Government of Sennaar — Heat — Difeafes — Trade of that Country — The Author's dijireffed fituation — Leaves Sennaar*
From Salldan's time, till the conqueft of Se- lim emperor of the Turks, who finiihed the reign of the Mamalukes by the murder of Tomum Bey, that is, from the twelfth to the iixteenth century, the Arabs in Nubia and Beja, and the feveral countries above Egypt, had been incorporated with the old indigenous inhabitants of thofe ter- ritories, which were th.^ Shepherds^ and, upon the converlion of thefe laft to the Mahometan reli- gion, had become one people with thofe Saracens who over-ran this country in the Khalifat of Omar. The only diftinclion that remained was, that the Arabs continued their old manner of life in tents, while the indigenous inhabitants lived in huts, moftly by the iides of rivers, and among plantations of date-trees.
Vol, V, P It
2IO TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
It muft be, however, remembered, that this, though a pretty general obfervation, does not hold without exception ; for the Arabs of Maho- met's own family, the Beni Koreifli, moftly lived in towns, fuch as Mecca, Tajef, and Medina, ef- pecially after the expuliion of the Jews and the ef- tabliihment of his empire. Many alfo of thefe, who came over to Beja and the eaftern part of Nubia, continued their practice of living in fmall towns or villages, and v/ere diftinguifhed by the name of Jaheleen. This appellation, literally in- terpreted, fignifies Pagans ; but by extention, the ancient races of Arabs converted immediately from Paganifm to the Mahometan faith, by Ma- homet himfelf, without having ever embraced Chriftianity, or any other Pagan fuperftition be- lides pure Sabaifm, and this was the old religion of Arabia, and of the whole peninfula of Africa to the Wellern Ocean. Thefe Jaheleen are gene- rally known by their name, referring to men of conlideration in the time of Mahomet's life, whom they call their father, or to fome circumftance re- lating to Mahomet himfelf. An example of the lirft of the race is, Rabatab, that is, Rabat wai our Fathevy or, '' we are the children of Rabat." An example of the fecond is the Macabrab, or, the fepulchre is our father^ meaning the fepulchre of their prophet at Medina.
Thefe Jaheleen are, as I have faid, truly noble Arabs of the race of Beni Koreifli, whofe title was Welled Ageeb, Son of the Good, which was his ge- neral
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 211
neral inauguration name ; and, befides this, he was called Ali, or Mahomet Welled Ageeb, which is part of his title, or, as it were, his Chriftian name added to that of his family. This prince was, never thelefs, but the Shekh of all the Arabs, to whom they paid a tribute to enable him to maintain his dignity, and a fufficient ftrength to keep up order and inforce his decrees in public matters. As for oeconomical ones, each tribe was under the government of its own Shekh, old men, fathers of families in each clan.
The refidence of this Arab prince, called for fhortnefs Wed Ageeb, was at Gerri, a town in the very limits of the tropical rains, immediately upon the ferry which leads acrofs the Nile to the defert of Bahiouda, and the road to Dongola and Egypt, joining the great defert of Selima, This was a very v/ell-chofen lituation, it being a toll- gate, as it Vvcre, to catch all the Arabs that had flocks, who, living withinlhe rains in the coun- try which Vv'as all of fat earth, were every year, about the month of May, obliged by the fly to pafs, as it were, in reviev/, to take up their abode in the fandy defert without the tropical rains. By the time fair weather returned in the fertile part of the country to the fouthward, and freed them from the fly, ail forts of verdure had grown up in great luxuriancy, while hunger flared them now in the face arnons: the fands to the north-ward, where every thing eatable had been confumed by • the multitudes of cattle that had taken refuge there. The Arab chief, with a large army of light,
P 2 unincurabered
212 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
unincumbered horfe, flood in the way of their re- . turn to their paRures, till they had paid the ut- termoft farthing of tribute, including arrears, if any there were. Such was the ftate and govern- ment of the whole of this vail country, from the frontiers of Egypt to thofe of Abyffinia, at the be- ginning of the 1 6th century.
In the year 1504, a black nation, hitherto un- kno\tn, inhabiting the weilern banks of the Ba- har el Abiad, in about latitude 13^, made a def- cent, in a multitude of canoes, or boats, upon the Arab provinces, and in a battle near Herba- gi, they defeated Wed Ageeb, and forced him to a capitulation, by which the Arabs were to pay ta their conquerors, in the beginning, one half of their flock, and every fabfequent year, one-half of the increafe, which was to be levied at the time of their palling into the fands to avoid the fly. Upon this condition, the iirabs were to enjoy their former poileilions unmolefted, and Wed Ageeb his place and dignity, that he always might be ready to ufe coercion in favour of the conquerors, in cafe any of the diRant Arabs refur fed payment, and he thus became as it were their- lieutenant.
This race of negroes is, in their own country, called Shillcok. They founded Sennaar, lefs ad- vantageoufly fituated than Gerri, and removed the feat of government of Wed Ageeb to Herba- gi, that he might be more immediately under their own eye. It was the year 1504 of the Chrif- tian sera that Amru, fon of Adelan, the firft of
their
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE, 213
their fovereigns on the eaftern fide of the Nile, founded this monarchy, and built Sennaar, which hath ever lince been the capital. From this peri- od, till the time v/hen I was at Sennaar, 266 years had elapfed, in which 20 kings had reigned, that is, from Amru the lirft, to Ifmain the prefent king. He was about 34 years of age, and had reigned three years, fo that, notwithftanding the long reigns of Amba Rabat the firft, and the two Baadys, the duration of the reigns of the kings of Sennaar will be but 1 3 years upon an average ; eight of the twenty have been depofed, and If- main the prefent king ilands the faireft chance poflible of being very foon the 9th of that num^- ber.
At the eftablifliing of this monarchy, the king« and the whole nation of Shillook, were Pagans* They were foon after converted to Mahometifm, for the fake of trading with Cairo^ and took the name of Funge, which they interpret fometimes lords, or conquerors, and, at other times, free citizens. All that can be faid with certainty of this term, as there is no accefs to the fliudy of their language, is, that it is applicable to thofe only that have been born eafi of the Bahar el Abiad. It does not feem to me that they fhouid pride them- felves in being free citizens, becaufe the firft title of nobility in this country is that of Have ; in- deed there is no other. Upon any appearance of your undervaluing a man at Sennaar, he inftant- iy alks you if you know who he is ? if you don't know that he is a Have, in the fame idea of arifto^
cratical
214 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
cratical arrogance, as would be faid in England upon an altercation, do you know to whom you are fpeaking ? do you know that I am a peer ? Al* titles and dignities are undervalued, and precari- ous, unlefs they are in the hands of one who is a Have. Slavery in Sennaar is the only true nobili- tv.
As I do not know that the names of thefe fove, reigns are to be found any where eife, I have fet them down here. The record from which I drew them is at leaft as extraordinary as any part of their hiftory ; it was the hangman's roll, or re- gifter. It is one of the fingulariti^s which obtains among this brutiih people, that the king afcends his throne under an admiflion that he may be law- fully put to death by his own fubjecls or Haves, upon a council being held by the great officers, if they decree that it is not for the advantage of the flate that he be fuffered to reign any longer. There is one officer of his own family, who, a- lone, can be the inftrument of Ihedding his fo- vereign and kinfman's blood. This officer is cal- led, Sid el Coom, mafter of the king's houfehold, or fervants, but has no vote in depoiing him ; nor is any guilt imputed to him, however many of his fovereigns he thus regularly murders. Ach- met Sid el Coom, the prefent licenced parricide, and refident in Ifmain's palace, had murdered the late king: Naffer, and two of his fons that were well grown, befides a child at his mother's breaft ; and he was expecling every day to confer the fame favour upon Ifmain ; though at prefent
there
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 215
there was no malice on the one part nor jealoufy on the other, and I believe both of them had a guefs of what was likely to happen. It was this Achmet, who was very much my friend, that gave me a lift of the kings that had reigned, now long their reign lafted, and whether they died a natural death, or were depofed and murdered.
This extraordinary officer was one of the very few that fhewed me any attention or civility at Sennaar. He had been violently tormented with the gravel, but had found much eafe from the ufe of foap-pills that I had given him, and this had produced, on his part, no fmall degree of grati- tude and friendfhip ; he was alfo fubje^l to the epilepfy, but this he was perfuaded was witchcraft, from the machinations of an enemy who refided far off. I often ftaid at his houfe all night, when he fuffered excellive pains, and I may fay then on- ly I was in fafety.
Achm.et feemed, by ftrange accident, to be one of the gentleft fpirits of any that it was my mis- fortune to converfe with at Sennaar. He was ve- ry little attached to, or convinced of, the truth . of the Mahometan religion, and as little zealous or inftruded in his own. He ufed often to qua- lify his ignorance, or difbdief, by faying, that any, or no religion, was better than that of a Chriftian. His place of birth was in a village of Fazuclo, and it appeared to me that he was ftill a Pagan. He was conftantly attended by Nubai> priefts, powerful conjurers and forcerers, if you believed him. 1 often converfed with thefe in
great
2i6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
great freedom, when it happened they underftood Arabic, and from them I learned many particu- lars concerning the iituation of the inland part of the country, efpecially that vaft ridge of moun- tains, Dyre and Tegla, which runs into the hea'rt of Africa to the weilward, whence they fay an- ciently they came, after having been preferved there from a deluge. I afked them often, (pow- erful as they were in charms), Why they did not cure Achmet of the gravel, or epilepfy ? Their an- fwer was, That it was a Chriftian devil, and not fubjecl to their power.
Achmet xlid not believe that I was a Chriftian, knew I was no Mahometan, but thought I was like himfelf, fomething between the two, nor did 1 ever undeceive him. I v/as no millionary, nor had I any care of fouls, nor deiire to enter into converfation about religion with a man whofe on- ly office was to be the deliberate murderer of his fovereign. He fpoke good Arabic, was offended at no quefticn, but anfwered freely, and without referve, whether about the country, religion, or government, or the poft which he enjoyed, if we can term it enjoying an office created for fuch hor- rid crim.es. He told me, with great coolnefs, in anfwer to a queilion why he murdered Naffer's fon in his father's prefence, that he did not dare do otherwile from duty to Naffer, whofe right it was to fee his fon flain in a res^ular and lawful manner, and this was by cutting his throat with a fword, and not by a more ignominious and pain- ful death, v/hicl-j if ic had not been done in his
father's
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 217
father's fight, the vengeance of his enemies might have fuggefted and inflicled. He faid, that Naf- fer was very little concerned at the fpedacle of his fon's death, but very loath when it came to his turn to die himfelf ; that he urged him often to fuffer him toefcape, but, finding this in vain, he fubmitted without refiftance. He told me, Ifmain, the prefent king, flood upon very preca- rious ground; that both the brothers, Adelan and Abou Kalec, were at the head of armies in the field ; that Kittou had at his difpofal all the forces that were in Sennaar ; and that the king was little efteemed, and had neither experience, courage, friends, money, nor troops.
I alked him if he was not afraid, when he en- tered into the king's prefente, left he, too, might take it into his head to fhew him, that to die or to be flain was not fo lli2;ht a matter as he made of it. He faid, " By no means ; that it was his duty to be with the king the greateii part of the morning, and neceiiarily once very late in the e- venin^ ; that the kina: knew he had no hand in the wrong that might be done to hirn, nor any way advanced his death ; but, being come to the point that he muft die, the reil was only a matter of decency, and it would undoubtedly be the ob- ject of his choice rather to be ilain by the hands of his own relation in private, than thofe of a hired aifaffin, an Ara.b, or a Chriftian iiave, in public View before the populace." ¥7hen Baady the king's father was taken prifoner, and fent to Tea- \va to Vv'elied Haffan governor of Atbara, (Shekh
Fidele's
21 3 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Fidele's father) Adelan ordered him to be put to death there, and Welled Haffen carried that order into execution. The king being always armed, was flout, and feemed to be upon his guard ; and Welled Haffen found no way of killing him but by thrufling him through the back with a lance while wafliing his hands. The people murmur- ed againft Adelan exceedingly, not on account of the murder itfelf, but the manner of it, and Wel- led Haffan was afterwards put to death himfelf, though he a^ed by exprefs orders, becaufe, not being the officer appointed, he had killed the king, and next, becaufe he had done it with a lance, whereas the only lawful inflrument was a fword. I have already faid, that it was the year of the Hegira, anfwering to 1504 of the Chriftian aera, that this people, called Shiilook, built the town of Sennaar, and eftablifhed their monarchy, which has now fublifled under a fucceffion of twenty kings of the fame family.
LIST
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE.
219
LIST OF THE KINGS OF SENNAAR.
Amru, fon of Adelan, began his reign in the
year 1504, and reigned Neil, his fon, Abdelcader, fon of Amru, Amru, fon of Neil, depofed, Dekin, fon of Neil, Douro, his fon, depofed, Tiby, fon of Abedelcader, Ounfa, depofed,
Abdelcader, fon of Ounfa, depofed, Adelan, fon of Ounfa, depofed, Baady, fon of Abdelcader, Rebat, fon of Baady, Baady, his fon,
Ounfa, fon of Naffer fon of Rebat, Baady el Achmar, his fon, Ounfa, his fon, depofed, L'Oul, fon of Baady, Baady, his fon, depofed. Naffer, his fon, depofed, Ifmain,
|
Years |
|
|
REIGNED |
. A.D^ |
|
30 |
1534 |
|
17 |
^SS^ |
|
8 |
1559 |
|
-II |
1570 |
|
17 |
1587 |
|
3 |
1590 |
|
3 |
1593 |
|
13 |
1606 |
|
4 |
I6IO |
|
5 |
I6I5 |
|
6 |
I62I |
|
30 |
I65I |
|
38 |
1689 |
|
12 |
I70I |
|
25 |
1726 |
|
3 |
1729 |
|
4 |
1733 |
|
33 |
1766 |
|
3 |
1769 |
|
3 |
1772 |
Although
220 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Although thefe kings began with a very re- markable conqueft, it does not appear they added much to their kingdom afterwards. Ounfa, fon of Naffer, is faid to have firft fubdued the pro- vince of Fazuclo. I (hall but make three obfer- vations upon this lift, which is undoubtedly au* then tic. 1 he firft is, that this monarchy having been eilablifhed in the year 1504, it muft anfwer to the 9th year of the reign of Naod in the Abyf- finian annals, as that prince began to reign in 1495.— The ^Gcond is, that Tecla Haimanout, the fon of Yafous the Great, writing to Baady el Achmer, or the White, who was the fon of Oun- fa, about the murder of M. du Roule the French AmbaiTador, in the beginning of this century,
, fpeaks of the ancient friendftiip that had fuLfifted between the kings of Abyffinia and thofe of Sen- naar, ever iince the reign of Kim, whom he men- tions as one of Baady's remote predeceffors on the throne of Sennaar. Now in the whole lift of 'kings we have juft given, we do not find one of the nam.e of Kim ; nor is there one word menti- oned of a king of Sennaar, or a treaty wdth him^ in the whole annals of Abyffinia, till the bedn- ning of Socinios's reign. I therefore imagine that the Kim *, which Tecla Haimanout informs us his predeceffors correfponded with in ancient tim^es, was a prince, who, under the command of the Caliph of Cairo wan, in the kingdom of
^ Tunis in Africa, took Cairo and fortified it, by
furroundins:
* Vid. Marmol, torn. I. p. 274,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 221
furrounding it with a ftrong wall, and who reign- ed, by himfelf and fucceiTors, 100 years, from 998 to I loi, when Hadec, the laft prince of that race, was ilain by Salidan, firft Soldan of Egypt, with which country the Abyffinians at that time were in conftant correfpondence, though I never heard they were with Sennaar, which indeed did not exift at that time, nor was there either city or kingdom till the reign of Naod ; fo it was a correfpondence with the fovereigns of Cairo, Te- cla Haimanout miftook for that with Sennaar, which monarchy was not then founded. — The third obfervation is, that this Baady el Achmer, being the very king who m.urdered M. du Roule in 1704, did, neverthelefs, live till the year 1726. having reigned 25 years ; whereas M. de Maiiiet * writes to his court, that this prince had been de- feated and flain in a battle he had with the Arabs, under their Shekh at Herbagi in 1705.
Upon the death of a king of Sennaar, his eld- eft fon fucceeds by right ; and immediately after- wards as many of the brothers of the reigning prince as can be apprehended are put to death by the Sid el Coom, in the manner already defcribed« Achmet, one of the fons of Baady, brother of NaiTer, and Ifmain now on the throne, fled, up- on his brother's acceffion, to the frontiers of Kua- ra, and gathering together about a hundred of the Ganjar horfe, he came to Gondar, and was
kindly
* Vid. Conful Maiilet's letter to the French ambaffador pubiiOaed by Le Grande in his Hiftory cf Abyllinia.
222 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
kindly received by the Iteghe, who perfuaded him to be baptifed. Some time after he return- ed to Kiiara, and joined the king's army a little
before the battle of Serbraxos, with about the fame number of horfcj and there he mifbehaved^ taking flight upon the iirfl appearance of the ene- my, before a man was killed or wounded on ei- ther fide. He was graceful in his perfon and car- riage, but a liar and drunkard beyond all concep- tion.
The practice which obtains at Sennaar of mur- dering all the collaterals of the royal family, feems to be but a part of the fame idea * which prevails in Abyflinia, of confining the princes all their lives upon a mountain. The difference of treatment, in cafes perfectly parallel, feems to of- fer a juft manner of judging, how much the one people furpalTes the other in barbarity of manners and difpofition. In Abyffinia, the princes are confined for life on a mountain, and in Sennaar they are murdered in their father's fight, in the palace where they v/ere born.
As in Abyffinia, fo neither in Sennaar do wo- men fucceed to fovereignty. No hiftorical rea- fon is given for this exclufion. It probably was a rule brought from El-aice, their own country before founding their monarchy, for the very contrary prevailed among the Shepherds, whom they fubdued in Atbara. The princeffes, how- ever, in Abyffinia, are upon a much better foot- ing
* Bear, like the Turk, no brother near the throne. Pope.
\
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. .223
ing than thofe of Sennaar. Thefe laft have no ftate nor fettled income, and are regarded very little more than the daughters of private indivi- duals. Among that crowd of women which 1 faw the two nights I was in the palace, there were many princeiTes, lifters of the king, as I was after told. At that time they were not diftinguifhable by their manners, nor was any particular mark of refpecl iliew n them.
The royal family were originally Negroes, and remain fo ftill, when their mothers have been black like themfelves ; but when the king has happened to marry an Arab woman, as he often does, the black colour of the father cedes to the white of the mother, and the child is white. Such was the cafe of Baady, therefore named Achmer ; his father Rebat was black, but marrying an Arab, his fon who fucceeded him was white. The laft Baady who was flain at Teawa was a per- ftd: Negro ; and by a Have from his own coun- try he had the late king Nafier, who, like his fa- ther, was a perfect black. By an Arab of the tribe of Daveina he had Ifmain the prefent king, who is white, and fo it has invariably happened in the royal family, as well as in private ones. But what is ftill more extraordinary, though e- qually true, an Arab who is white, marrying a black woman Have, has infallibly white children. I will not fay that this is fo univerfal as that an example of the contrary may not be found, but all the inftances I happened to fee confirmed this. • The Arabs, froai choice, cohabit only with Ne- gro
224 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
gro women in the hot months of fummer, on ac- count of the remarkable coohiefs of their fkins, in which they are faid to differ from the Arab wo- men ; but I never faw one black Arab in the ' kingdom of Sennaar, notwithftanding the gene- rality of this intercourfe.
There is a conftant mortality among the chil- dren in and about this metropolis, infomuch that, in alt appearance, the people would be extinct were they not fupplied by a number of flaves brou2:ht from all the different countries to the fouthward. The men, however, are ftrong and remarkable for iize, but Ihort-lived, owing, pro- bably, to their indulging themfelves in every fort of excefs from their very infancy. This being the cafe, this climate muft have undergone a flrange revolution, as Sennaar is but a fm.all diflance from where the ancients place the Macrobii, a na- tion fo called from the remarkable length of their lives. But perhaps they wxre mountaineers from the frontiers of Kuara, being defcribed as having gold in their territory, and are the race now cal- led Guba. It is very remarkable, that, though they are Mahometans, they are fo brutal, not to fay indelicate, with regard to their women, that they fell their flaves after having lived with, and even had children by them. The king himfelf, it is faid, is often guilty of this unnatural pra6lice, utterly unknown in any other Mahometan coun- try.
Once in his reign the king is obliged, with his own hand, to plow and fovv a piece of land.
From
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. ^225
From this operation he is called Baady, the countryman or peafant ; it is a name common to the whole race of kings, as Csefar was among the Romans, they have generjally another name peculiar to each perfon, and this not attended to has occalioned confufion in the narrative given by ftrangers writing concerning them. '
No horfe, mule, afs, or any beaft of burdenj will breed, or even live at Sennaar, or many miles about it. Poultry does not live there. Nei- ther dog nor cat, flieep nor bullock, can be pre- ferved a feafon there. They mufl go all, every half year, to the fands. Though all poflible care be taken of them, they die in every place where the fat earth is about the town during the firft feafon of the rains. Two grey-hounds which I brought from Atbara, and the mules which I brought from i^byffinia, lived on a few weeks af» ter I arrived. They feemed to have fome inward complaint, for nothing appeared outwardly. The dogs had abundance of water, but I killed one of them from appreheniion of madnefs. Several kings have tried to keep lions, but no care could prolong their lives beyond the firft rains. Shekh Adelan had two, \A'hich were in great health, be- ing kept with his horfes at grafs in the fands but three miles from Sennaar : neither rofe^ nor any fpecies of jeiTamin, grow here ; no t^*ee but the lemon fiowers near the city, that ever I faw ^ the rofe has been often tried, but in vain.
Sennaar is in lat. 13° 34' 36" north, and in long. 33^ 30' 30" eaft from the meridian of
Vol. V. O Greenwich,
226 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Greenwich. It is on the well lide of the Nile, and clofe upon the banks of it. The ground where- on it ftands rifes jult enough to prevent the river from entering the town, even in the height of the inundation, when it comes to be even with the ftreet. Poncet fays, that when he was at this city, his companion, father Brevedent, a Jefuit^ an able mathematician, on the 21ft of March 1699, determined the latitude of Sennaar to be 13° 4' N. the difference therefore will be about half a degree. The reader however may impli- citly rely upon the lituation I have given it, being the mean reiult of above fifty obfervations made both night and day, on the moft, favourable oc- eafions, by a quadrant of three feet radius, and telefcopes of two, and fometimes of three feet fo- cal length, both refle(5i:ors and refraclors made by the beft mailers.
The town of Sennaar is very populous, there being in it many good houfes after the fafhion of the country. Poncet fays, in his time they were all of one ftory high ; but now the great officers have all houfes of two. They have parapet roofs, which is a lingular conftru6tion ; for in other pla- ces, within the rains, the roofs are ail conical. The houfes are all built of clay, with very little ftraw mixed with it, w^hich fufficiently fhews the rains here muft be lefe violent than to the. fouth- ward probably from the diilance of the mountains. However, when I was there, a week of conftant rain happened, and on the 30th of July the Nile increafed violently, after loud thunder, and ai
great
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 227
great darknefs to the fouth. The whole ftreatn was covered with wreck of houfes, canes, wooden bowls, and platters, living camels and cattle, and feveral dead ones palTed Sennaar, hurried along by the current with great velocity. A hyaena, endeavouring to crofs before the town, was fur- rounded and killed by the inhabitants. The v/ater got into the houfes that ftand upon its banks, and by riling feveral feet high, the walls melted, being clay, which occaiioned feveral of them to fall. It feemed, by the floating wreck of houfes that appeared in the flream, to have deftroyed a great many villages to the fouthward towards Fazuclo. The foil of Sennaar, as I have already faid, is very unfavourable both to man and bead, and particularly adverfe to their propagation. This feems to me to be owing to fome noxious quality of the fat earth with which it is every way fur- rounded, and nothing may be depended upon more furely than the facl already m.entioned, that no mare^ or Ihe-beaft of burden, ever foaled in the town, or in any village within feveral miles round it. This remarkable quality ceafes upon removing from the fertile country to the fands. Aira, between three and four miles from Sennaar, with no water near it but the Nile, furrounded with white barren fand, agrees perfedly with all animals, and here are the quarters v/here I faw Shekh Adelan the minifter's horfe, (as I fuppofe, for their numbers) by far the fmeft in the world, where in fafety he watched the m.otion of his fovereign, who. fhut up in his capital of Sen-
O 2 naar
z;j8 travels TO DISCOVER
naar, could not there maintain one horfe to op- pofe him.
But however unfavourable this foil may be for the propagation of animals, it contributes very abundantly both to the nourifhment of man and beaft. It is pofitively faid to render three hun- dred for one, which, however confidently ad- vanced, is, I think, both from reafon and ap- pearance, a great exaggeration. It is all fown with dora, or millet, the principal food of the na- tives. It produces alfo wheat and rice, but thefe at Sennaar are fold by the pound, even in years of plenty. The fait made ufe of at Sennaar is all extracted from the earth about it, efpecially at Halfaia, fo fcrongly is the foil impregnated with this ufeful foiiile.
About twelve miles from Sennaar, nearly to the N. W. is a collection of villages called Shad- dly, from a great faint, w^ho in his time direcled large pits to be dug, and plaftered clofely within with clay, into which a quantity of grain was put when it was at the cheapeft, and thefe were co- vered up, and plaftered again at the top, which they call fealing, and the whole itfeif matamore. Thefe matamores are in great number all over the plain, and, on any profpecl of corn growing dearer, they are opened, and corn fold at a low price both to the town and country.
To the north of Shaddiy, about twenty-four miles, is another foundation of this fort, called Wed Aboud, ftill greater than Shaddiy. Upon thefe two charities the chief fubfiflence of the
Arabs
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 229
Arabs depends ; for as there is continual war among thefe people, and their violence being al- ways direci:ed againft the crops rather than the' perfons of their enemies, the deftruclion of each tribe would follow the lofs of its harveft, was it not for the extraordinary fupplies furnifhed at fuch times by thefe granaries.
The fmall villages of foldiers are fcattered up and down through this immenfe plain to watch the grain that is fown, v/hich is dora only, and it is faid that here the ground will produce no other grain. Prodigious excavations are made at proper diftances, which fill with water in the rainy feafon, and are a great relief to the Arabs in their paflage between the cultivated country and the fands. The lly, that inexorable perfe- cutor of the Arabs, never purfues them to the north of Shaddly. The knowledge of this cir- cumftance was what, perhaps, determined the firft builders of Sennaar to place their capital here ; this too, probably, induced the two faints, Shad- dly and Wed Aboud, to make here thefe vaft ex- cavations for corn and water. I'his is the firft r^fting-place the Arabs find, where, having all things neceifary for fabiiftence, they can at leifure tranfacl their affairs with government.
To the weft ward of Shaddly and Aboud, as far as the river Abiad, or Ei-aice, the country is full of trees, which make it a favourite ftation for ca- mels. As Shaddly is not above three hours ride on horfeback from Sennaar, there could not be :Chofen a fituatioa more convenient for levying
the
230 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the tribute ; for though Gerri, from the favour- able fituation of the ground, being mountainous and rocky, and juft on the extremity of the rains, was a place properly chofen for this purpofe by the Arab prince before the conquefl of the Funge, (for his troops there cut them off, either from the fands, or the fertile country, as he pleafed), yet many of them might have remained behind at Shaddly, and to the weftward, free from the terror of the fly, and confequently without any neceffity of advancing fo far north as Gerri, and there fubjecling themfelves to contribution.
In this exteniive plain, near Shaddly, arife two mountainous diftricts, the one called Jibbel Moia, or the Mountain of Water, which is a ridge of conliderable hills nearly of the fame height, clofely united ; and the other Jibbel Segud, or the Cold Mountain, a broken ridge compofed of parts, fome high and fome low, without any regular form. Both thefe enjoy a fine climate, and are full of inhabitants, but of no conliderable extent. They ferve for a protection to the Daheera, or farms of Shaddly and Wed Aboud. They are alfo fortre-fles in the way of the Arabs, to detain and force them to payment in their flight from the cultivated country and rains to the dry lands of Atbara. Each of thefe diftricts is governed by the defcendant. of their ancient and native princes, who long reflfted all the power of the Arabs, hav- ing both horfe and foot. They continued to be Pagans til] the conqueil of the Funge. Bloody and unnatural facriflces were faid to have been in
ufe
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 231
ufe In thefe mountainous flates, with horrid cir- cumftances of cruelty, till Abdelcader, fon of Amru, the third of the kings of Sennaar, about the year 1554, belieged firft th^ one and then the other of thefe princes in their mountain, and -forced them to furrender^ and, having fattened a chain of gold to each of their ears^ he expofed them in the public market-place at Sennaar in that fituation, and fold them to the higheft bid- der, at the vile price of fomething like a farthing each. After this degradation, being circumcifed. and converted to the Mahometan religion, they were reftored each to their government, as flaves of Sennaar, upon very eafy conditions of tribute, and have been faithful ever lince.
Nothing is more pleafant than the country around Sennaar, in the end of Auguftand begin- ning of September, I mean fo far as the eye is concerned ; inftead of that barren, bare wafte, w^hich it appeared on our arrival in May, the corn now fpi-ung up, and covered the ground, made the whole of this immenfe plain appear a level, green land, interfperfed with great lakes of water, and ornamented at certain intervals with groups of villages, the conical tops of the houfes prefenting, at a diftance, the appearance of fmall encamp- ments. Through this immenfe, exteniive plain, winds the Nile, a delightful river there, above a mile broad, full to the very brim, but never over- flowing. Every where on thefe banks are (cqii numerous herds of the moil beautiful cattle of various kinds, the tribute recently extorted from
the
332 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the Arabs, who, freed from ail their vexations, return home with the remainder of their flocks in peace, at as great a diftance from the town, country, and their opprelFors, as they poilibly can.
- The banks of the Nile about Sennaar refemble the pleafanteil parts of Iloiland in the fummer feafbn ; but foon after, when the rains ceafe, and the fun exerts his utmoft influence, the dora be- gins to ripen, the leaves to turn yellow and to rot, the lakes to putrify, fmell, and be full of vermin, all this beauty fuddenly difappears; bare, fcorched Nubia returns, and all its terrors of poifonous winds and moving fands, glowing and ventilated with fultry blafls, which are followed by a troop of terrible attendants, epileplies, apoplexies, vio- lent fevers, obilinate agues, and lingering, pain- ful dyfenteries, ftill more obilinate and mortal.
War and treafon feem to be the only employ- ment of this horrid people, whom Heaven has feparated, by almoft impafiible deferts, from the reft of mankind, confining them to an accurfed fpot, feemingly to give them earnert in time of the only other worfe which he has referved to them for an eternal hereafter.
The drefs of Sennaar is very flmple. It coniifts of a long (hirt of blue Surat cloth called Marowty, which covers them from the lower part of the neck down to their feet, but does not conceal the neck itfelf ^ and this is the only diiference between •the men's and the women's drefs ; that of the women covers their neck altogether^ being but-'
toned
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 233
toned like ours. The men have fometimes a fafti tied about their middle ; and both men and wo- men go bare-footed in the houfe, even thofe of the better fort of people. Their floors are co- vered with Periian carpets, efpecially the women's apartments. In fl\ir weather, they wear fandals; and without doors they ufe a kind of wooden patten, very neatly ornamented with {hells. In the greateft heat at noon, they order buckets of water to be thrown upon them inftead of bath- insc- Both men and women anoint themfelves, at leafl once a-day, with camels greafe mixed with civet, which they imagine foftens their fkin, and preferves them from cutaneous eruptions, of which they are fo fearful, that the fmalleft pim- ple in any viiible part of their body keeps them in the houfe till it difappears : For the fame rea- fon, though they have a' clean iliirt every day, they ufe one dipt in greafe to lie in all night, as . they have no covering but this, and lie upon a bull's hide, tanned, and very much foftened by this conftant greafing, and at the fam.e time very cool, though it occaiions a fmellthat no wafiiing can free them from.
The princ^'pal diet of the poorer fort is millet, made into bread or flour. The rich make a pud- ding of this, toafting the flour before a fire, and pouring milk and butter into it ; beiides which, they eat heef^ partly roafted and partly raw. Their horned cattle are the largell; and fatteil in the world, and are exceedingly fine ; but the com- mon meat fold in the market is can} els flefli. The
liver
234 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
liver of the animal, and the fpare rib, are always eaten raw through the whole country. I never faw one inftance where ijc was drelTed with fire : it is not then true that eating raw fleih is peculiar to Abyirinia ; it is praclifed in this inftance of ca- mels fieih in all the black countries to the weft- ward.
Hogs fiefli is not fold in the market ; but all the people of Sennaar eat it publicly : men in of- fice, who pretend to be Mahometans, eat theirs in fecret. The Mahometan religion made a very remarkable progrefs among the Jews and Chrif- tians on the Arabian, ,or eaftern fide of the Red Sea, and foon after alfo in Egypt ; but it was either received coolly, or not at all, by the Pa- gans on the w^eft fide, unlefs when, after a iignal victory, it was ftrongly enforced by the fword of the conqueror.
The Saracens, who over-ran this country, were bigots in their religion, as their pofterity conti- nue to be at this day. They have preferved the language of the Koran in its ancient purity, and adhere rigidly to the letter of its precepts. They either extirpated the Pagans, or converted them ; but this power and tyranny of the Saracens re- ceived a check, both in Egypt and Arabia, about the 1 6th century, by Selim, who eftabUflied Tur- kiih garrifons in all their principal places on the frontiers of Beja, or Barbaria, and in the Berei A jam, or ancient Azamia, along theweftcoaftof the Red Sea.
Thefe
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 23J
Thefe Turks were all truly atheiils in their hearts, who defpifed the zeal of the Arabs, and oppreiTed them fo, that Paganifm again ventured to lliew its head. The Shillook, as I have faid before, made an eruption into Beja, and con- quered the whole of that country. They became mafters of the Arabs, and embraced their relip-ion as a form, but never anxiouily followed the law of Mahomet, which did not hold out to them that liberty and relaxation by which it had tempt- ed the Jews and Chriftians. Thefe the law of Mahomet had freed from miany redraints upon pleafures and purfuits forbidden by the gofpel, and thus made their yoke eafier. But it was not fo with the Pagan nations. The Mahometan re- ligion diminifbed their natural liberty, by impo- ling prayers^ ablutions, alms, circumcifion, and fuch-like, to which before they were under no obligation. The Pagans therefore of Sennaar, and all the little ftates to the weft-ward, Dar-Fowr, Dar-Sele, Bagirma, Bornou, and Tombudo, and all that country upon the Niger, called Sudan, trouble themfelves very little with the detail of the ^Mahometan religion, which they embraced merely for the fake of perfonal freedom and ad- vantages in trade ; but they are Pagans in their hearts and in their practices, Mahometans in their converfation only. As for the ions of thefe, they are Pagans Hke their fathers, unlefs fome Fakir, or Arab Saint, takes pains to inftrucl and teacli them to read, otherwiie the whole of their re- ligion confifts in the confeilion of faith, " La
Illah,
2.-6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER,
"D
lllah, Mahomet Rafoul Ullah,"— " There is but *' one God, and Mahomet is his prophet."
There are theee principal governments in the kingdom of Sennaar. The firft is at El-aice, the capital of that country, from which the Shillook come. The Bahar el Abiad fpreads itfelf all over the territory, and, divided into a quantity of Imall channels, (whether by art or nature I know not) furrounds a number of little iflands, upon each of which is a village, and this collection of viiiaees is called the town of El-aice. The inha- bitants are all fifliermen, and have a number of boats, like canoes, in which they fail up and dowm to the catara6is. With incredible fleets of thefe their invafion v^^as made w^hen they undertook the conqueft of the Arabs, who had not the fmallell warning of the attempt. They had, at that time, no weappns of iron : their fwords and lances were of a hard wood called Dengui-Sibber. It muft be a relation of the Mek of Sennaar that commands at El-aice ; and he is never fuffered to leave that poft, or corne to Sennaar.
The fecond government, next to this in im- portance, is Kordofan. Ihe revenue conMs chiefly in Haves procured from Dyre and Tegla. It feems this fituation is the moft convenient for invading thofe mountains, either from its having water in the Vvay, or from fome other circum- ftance that is not known. Mahomet Abou Kalec had this government, and with him about looo black horfe, armed with coats of mail, with vv^hom he maintained himfelf at this tim.e independent of
th^
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 237
the king. It is a frontier neareft to Dai'-Fowr a black ftate ftill more barbarous, if pofiibie, than Sennaar, and by them it often has been taken from Sennaar, and again retaken.
The third government is Fazucio, bounded br the river El-aice on the weft, and the Nile on the eaft, and the mountains • of Fazuclo, where are the great cataracts, on the South. Thefe are part of the large chain of mountains of Dyre and Tegla, which reach fo far weftward into the continent, from whence comes the chief fupply both of gold and ilaves which conilitute the riches of this coun- try ; for the greateft part of the revenue of Fazu- clo is gold ; and the perfon that commands it is not a Funge, but the fam.e native prince from whom the army of Sennaar conquered it. This feems to be a very remarkable piece of policy in this barbarous nation, which mufthave fucceeded as they conftantiy adhere to it, of making the prince of the ftate they have conquered their lieu- tenant in the government of his own country af- terwards. Such was the cafe with Dongola, whofe Mek they continue ; alfo with \¥ed Ageeb, prince of the i\rabs, whom they fubdued ; and fuch was the cafe with Fazuclo, Wed Aboud, Jibbei Moia, and other petty ftates, all of which they conquered, but did not change their prince.
The forces at Sennaar, immediately around the capital, coniift of about 14,000 Nuba, w^ho nght naked, having no other armour but a fhort ja- velin and a round iliield, very bad troops,' as I fuppofe; about s8oo horfe, all black, mounted
by
238 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
by black flaves, armed with coats of mail, and without any other weapon but a broad Sclavonian fword. Thefe I fuppo^e, by the weight and power of man and horfe, would bear down, or break through double the number of any other troops in the world : nobody, that has not feen this ca- - valry, can have any idea to what perfection the horfe rifes here. The Pvlek has not one muiket in his whole army. Befides thefe hoi'fe, there is a great, but uncertain number of Arabs, who pay their tribute immediately to the Mek and to the great men in government, and live under their proteclion clofe by the town, and thereby have the advantage of trading with it, of fupplying it with proviiions, and, no doubt, m.uft contribute in part to its ilrength and defence in time of need.
After what I have faid of the latitude of Sen- naar, it v/ill fcarcely be neceiTary to repeat that the heats are exceilive. The thermometer rifes in the ihade to 119^, but as I have obferved of the heats of Arabia, fo now I do in refpeci; to thofe of Sennaar. The degree of the therm^ometer does not convey any idea of the efFeft the fun has upon the fenfations of the body or the colour of the iidn. Nations of blacks live v.ithin lat. 13^ and 14*^, when lo^' fouthof them, nearly under the Line, all the people are white, as we had an opportunity of feeing daily in the Galla, whom we have defcribed. Sennaar, which is in lat. 13^, is Ifotter, by the thermometer, 50 degrees, when the fun is moil diilant from it, than Gondar is,
though
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 239
though a degree farther fouth, when the fun is vertical.
Cold and hot are terms merely relative, not determined by the latitude, but elevation of the place ; when, therefore, we fay hot, fome other explanation is neceifary concerning the place where we are, in order to give an adequate idea of the fenfations of that heat upon the body, and the eifecls of it upon the lungs. The degree of the thermometer conveys this very imperfectly ; 90^ is exceflively hot at Loheia in Arabia Felix, and yet the latitude of Loheia is but 15°, whereas 90^ at Sennaar is, as to fenfe, only warm, although Sennaar, as we have faid, is in lat. 13^.
At Sennaar, then I call it cold^ when one, fully cloathed and at reft, feels himfelf in want of fire. I call it cool^ when one, fully cloathed and at reft, feels he could bear more covering all over, or in part, more than he has then on. 1 call it tempe- rate^ when a man, fo cloathed and at reft, feels no fuch want, andean take m.oderate exercife, fuch as walking about a room vvithout fweating. I call it warm^ when a man, fo cloathed, does Eot fweat when at reft, but, upon moderate motion ^ fweats, and again cools. I call it hrA^ when a man., fweats at reft, and exceftively on moderate mo> tion. I call it very hot^ when a man, v/ith thin or little cloathing, fweats much though at reft. 1 call it e^cejjl've hot^ when a man, in his ihirt, at reft, fweats exceflively, vvhen all motion is pain- ful, and the knees feel feeble as if after a fever. I call it extreme hot^ when the ftrength fails, a qvl"
pofition
240 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER.
pofition to faint comes on, a ftraitnefs is found in the temples, as if a fmali cord was drawn tight around the head, the voice impaired, the Hkln dry, and the head feems more than ordinary large and light. This, I apprehend, denotes death at hand, as we have feen in the inftance of Imhan- zara, in our journey to Teawa ; but this is rarely or never effected by the fun alone, Vv^thout the addition of that poifonous wind which purfued us through Atbzira, and will be more particularly defcribed in our journey dov/n the defert, to which Heaven, in pity to m^ankind, has confined it, and where it has, no doubt, contributed to the total extinction of every thing that hath the breath of life. A thermometer graduated upon this fcale would exhibit a figure very different from the common one ; for I am convinced by experiment, that a web of the fineil muflin, wrapt round the body at Sennaar, will occafion at mid- day a greater fenfation of heat in the body than the rife of 5*^ in the thermometer of Fahrenheit. At Sennaar, from 70^ to 78° in Fahrenheit's thermometer is cool ; from 79^ to 92 temperate ; at 92^ begins warm. Although the degree of the thermometer marks a greater heat than is felt by the body of us flrangers, it feems to me that the fenfations of the natives bear flill a lefs proportion to that degree than ours. On the 2d of Augufl, while I was lying perfecfly enervated on a carpet, in a room deluged with water, at twelve o'clock, the thermometer at i iG^, I faw feveral black la- bourers pulling dov/n a houfe, working with great
vigour
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 241
vigour, \vithout any fymptoms of being at all in- commoded.
The difeafes of Sennaar are the dyfentery, or bloody flux, fatal in proportion as it begins with the firft of the rains, or the end of them, and re- turn of the fair weather. Intermitting fevers ac- company this complaint very frequently, which often ends in them. Bark is a fovereisrn remedv in this country, and feems to be by fo much the furer, that it purges on taking the firft dofe, and this it does almoft without exception. Epilepfies and fchirrous livers are likewife very frequent, owing, as is fuppofed, to their defeating or di- minifhing perfpiration, or flopping the pores by conftant unclion, as alfo by the quantity of water they deluge themfelves with at the time they are hotteft. The influence of the m.oon in epilepfies, and the certainty with which the third day after the conjundlion brings back the paroxyfm in re- gular intermitting fevers, is vv^hat naturally fur- prifes people not deeper read than I am in the fi:u- dy of medicine. Tliofe who live much in camps, or in the parts of Atbara far from rivers, have certainly, more or lefs, the gravel, occafioned, probably, by the ufe of well-water ; for at Sen- naar, where they drink of the river, 1 never fav/ but one inftance of it, that of the^^ Sid el Coom ; as for Shekh Ibrahim, whom I fiiaU fpeak of af- terwards, he had pafled a great part of his life at Kordofan. The venereal difeafe is frequent here, but never inveterate, infomuch that it does not prevent the marriage of either fex. Sweating and
Vol. V. R abftinence
i42 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
abflinence never fail to cure it, although, where it had continued for a time, I have known mer- cury fail.
The elephantiafis, fo common in Abyflinia, is not known here. The fm all-pox is a difeafe not endemial in the country of Sennaar. It is feme- times twelve or fifteen years without its being known, notwithflanding the conftant intercourfe they have with, and merchandizes they bring from Arabia. It is likewife faid this difeafe never broke out in Sennaar, unlefs in the rainy feafon. However, when it comes, it fweeps away a vaft proportion of thofe that are infecled : The women both blacks and Arabs, thofe of the former that live in plains, like the Shiilook, or inhabitants of El-aice, thofe of the Nuba and Guba, that live in mountains, all the various fpecies of llaves that come from Dyre and Tegla, from time immemo- rial have known a fpecies of inoculation which they call Tiihteree el Jidderee, or, the buying of the f mall pox. The women are the conductors of this operation in the faireft and drieft feafon of the year, but never at other times. Upon the firft hearing of the fmall pox any where, thefe people go to the infecled place, and wrapping a fillet of cotton cloth about the arm of the perfon infecled, they let it remain there till they bargain with the mother how many fhe is to fell them. It is ne- ceiTary that the terms be difcuifed judaically, and that the bargain be not made collufively or gra- tuitouily, but that one piece of filver, or more, be paid for the number. This being concluded,
they
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 243
they go home, and tie the fillet about their own child's arm ; certain, as they fay, from long ex- perience, that the child infecled is to do well, and not to have one more than the number of puftules that were agreed and paid for. There is no ex- ample, as far as I could learn, either here or in Abyffinia, of this difeafe returning, that is, at- tacking any one perfon more than once.
The trade of Sennaar is not great ; they have no manufactures, but the principal article of con- fumption is blue cotton cloth from Surat. For- merly, when the ways were open, and merchants went in caravans with fafety, Indian goods were brought in quantities to Sennaar from Jidda, and then difperfed over the black country. The re- turn was made in gold, in powder called Tibbar, civet, rhinoceros's horns, ivory, oftrich feathers, and above all, in flaves or glafs, more of which w^as exported from Sennaar than all the eaft of Africa together. But this trade is almoft deftroyed, fo is that of the gold and ivory. However, the gold ilill keeps up its reputation of being the pureft and beft in Africa, and therefore bought at Mo- cha to be carried to India, where it all at laft cen= ters. If the v/akea of Abyilinian gold fells at 1 6 patakas, the Sennaar gold fells at the fame place for 22 patakas. The ivory fells at i^oz.*perro- tol at Cairo, which is about 25 per cent lighter than the rotol of Mocha. Men-flaves, at a me- dium, may be about a .wakea per head at Sennaar,
R 2 There
* Ounce of gold is here meant.
244 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
There are women, however, who fell for 13 or 14 wakeas* What their peculiar excellencies may be, which fo far alter the price, I cannot tell, only they are preferred by rich people, both Turks and Moors, to the Arab, Circafilan, and Georgian women, during the warm months in fummer.
The Daveina Arabs, who are great hunters, carry the ivory to Abyiiinia, where they are not in fear. But no caravan comes now from Sudanf to Sennaar, nor from Abyiiinia or Cairo. The violence of the Arabs, and the faithlefsnefs of the government of Sennaar, have fhut them up on every iide but that of Jidda, whither they go once a year by Suakem.
The wakea of Sennaar, by which they fell gold, dvet, fcented oils, kc. coniiils of 10 drams ; 10 of thefe wakeas make a rotol. This wakea at Sennaar is accounted the fame as that of Mafuah and Cairo. It is equal to 7 drams ^y grains troy weight.
1 Roto! 10 Wakeas. I Wakea 10 Drams.
But here is another wakea ufed by the merchants called the Atareys.
I Rotol 12 Wakeas, I Wakea 12 Drams.
But this is only ufed for coarfe goods. There is but one long meafure in Sennaar, called the Draa,
which
t N'lgritia, or the black countries on both fides of the Niger.
THE SOURCE OF TH*" NILE. 245
which is the peek, or cubit, and is meafurecl from the centre of the elbow-joint to the point of the middle finger. This is probably the ancient cubit of Egypt, and of the holy fcripture.
I have faid, that the 5th and 6th of Augufl it rained, and the river brought down great quan- tities of fragments of houfes which it had fwept away from the country to the fouthward. It was a very unufual fight to obferve a multitude of men fwimming in this violent current, and then com- ing afhore riding upon flicks and pieces of timber. Many people make a trade of this, as fuel is ex- ceedingly fcarce at Sennaar. But there were other figns in this inundation, that occupied the imagi- nation of this fuperflitious people. Part of the town had fallen, and a hyaena, as already obferved, had come alive acrofs the river, from which the wife ones drew melancholy prefages.
I had not been out of the houfe for two days on account of the rain. On the 7th I intended to have gone to Aira ; but on the morning was told by Hagi Belal, that Mahomet Abou Kalec had advanced to the river El-aice, to crofs it into Atbara, and that Shekh Adelan had decamped froni Aira, and was gone to meet him ; to this it was added, that Wed Ageeb had been fent to by the king, to colkcl all his forces among the Arabs, and join him between Herbagi and Sen- naar. It was forefeen, that if this was true, a re- volution of fome kind was near at hand, proba- bly the depoling and death of the king, and that in the interim, all fubordination would ceafe in
the
246 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the town, and every man do what feemed good in his own eyes.
Hagi Belal had, belides, told me that Shekh Kdele of Teawa had, been feveral days in the pa- lace with the king, and had informed him that I was laden with money, Ipeiides a quantity of cloth of gold, the richeft he had ever feen, which the king of Abyiiinia had dellined as a prefent to him, but which I had perverted to my own ufe : He added, that the king had expreffed himfelf in a very threatening manner, and that he was very much afraid I was not in fafetv if Shekh Adelan was gone from Aira. Upon this I defired Hagi Belal to go to the palace, and obtain for me an audience of the king. In vain he reprefented to me the rifK I ran by this meafare ; I perfifted in my refoiution, I was tied to the flake. To fly was impoffible, and I had often overcome fuch dangers by braving them.
He went then unwillingly to the palace. Whe-. ther he delivered the meffage I know not, but he returned faying, the king was bufy, and could not be feen. I had, in the interim, fent Soliman to the Gindi, or Sid el Coom, telling him my dif- ficulties, and the nevv^s I had heard. In place of returning an anfwer, he came directly to me him.- felf ; and was fitting with me when Hagi Belal returned, who, I thought, appeared fomewhat difconcerted at the meeting. He told me the flo- ry of Abou Kalec w- a.s falfe, as alfo that of Wed Ageel>; but it v/as really true that Shekh Adelan had left Aira, and was then encamped at Shadd-
Iv.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 247
ly. He chid Hagi Belal very Iharply, afKing him, what good all that tittle tattle did either to him or me ? and inlinuated pretty plainly, that he believed Hasfi Belai did this in concert with the king, to extort fome prefent from me. " What is the difference to Yagoube, fays he, if Shekh Adelan be at Aira, three hours journey from Sen- naar, or at Shaddly, five ? Is not Kittou in town ? and fhall not I bring every Have of the king to join him upon the firft requilition ? At a time like this, will you perfuade me, Hagi Belal, the king IS not rather thinking of his own fafety than of robbing Yagoube ? I do not wifli that Yagoube fliould flay a minute longer at Sennaar ; but, till fome way be found to get neceffaries for his jour- ney, it is not in the king's power to hurt him in the houfe where he is ; and he is much fafer in Sennaar than he could be any where out of it. Before the king attempts to hurt Yagoube, as long as he ftays in Adelan's houfe, he will think twice of it, while any of the three brothers are alive. But I will fpeak to Kittou in the evening, and the king too, if 1 have an opportunity. In the mean time, do you, Yagoube, put your mind at reft, defend yourfeif if any body attempts to enter this houfe, and do what you will to thofe that iliall force themfelves into it." I then at- tended him down ftairs, with many profeilions of gratitude ; and at the door he faid, in a very low voice, to me, " Take care of yon Belal, he is a dog, worfe than a Chriftian.'*
I refolved
248 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
I refolved at all events to leave Sennaar, but t had not yet founded Hagi Belal as to money af- fairs. It was now the 20th ; and, for feveral days fince Adelan's departure, no provifions were fent to my houfe, as before was ufual. Money there- fore became abfolutely necsflary, not only for daily fubiiflence, but for camels to carry our bag- gage, provifions, and water, acrofs the defert.
I now defpaired abfolutely of afliftance of any kind from the king ; and an accident that hap- pened made me lay all thoughts afide of ever troubling him more upon the fubjecl. There are at Mecca a number of black eunuchs, whofe fer- vices are dedicated to that semple, and the fe- pulchre at Medina. Part of thefe, from time to time, procure liberty to return on a viiit to their refpedive homes, or to the large cities they were fold from, on the Niger, Bornou, Tocrur, and Tombuclo, where they beg donations for the ho- ly places, and frequently collect large fums of gold, which abounds in thefe towns and territories, One of thefe, called Mahomet Towafh, which fig- nifies Eunuch, had returned from a begging voy- age in Sudan, or Nigritia, and was at Sennaar exceedingly ill with an intermitting fever. The king had fent for me to viiit him, and the bark in a few days had perfectly recovered him. A proportional degree of gratitude had, in return, taken place in the breaft of Mahomet, who, go- ing to Cairo, was exceedingly defirous of taking me with him, and this defire was increafed when he heard I had letters from the fiierriffe of Mec-
' ca.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 249
ca, and was acquainted with Metical Aga, who was his immediate mailer.
Nothing could be more fortunate than this ren- counter at fuch a time, for he had fpare camels in great plenty, and the Arabs, as he paiTed them, continued giving him m. ore, and fupported him with proviiions wherever he went, for thefe peo- ple, being accounted facred, and regarded with a certain religious awe, as being in the immedi- ate fervice of their prophet, till now ufed to pais inviolate w^herever they were going, however un- fettlcd the times, or however flenderly attended.
Every thing was now ready, my inflruments and baggage packed up, and the 25th of Auguft fixed when we fliould begin our journey for At. bara. Mahomet, who palled a great part of his time at my houfe, had not been feen by us for feveral days, which we did not think extraordi- nary, being bufy ourfeives, and knowing that his trade demanded continual attendance on the great people ; but we were exceedingly furprifed at hearing from my black Soliman, that he and all his equipage had fet out the night of the 20th for Atbara. This we found afterwards was at the earneft perfuafion of the king, and was at that time a heavy difappointment to us, hov/ever for- tunate it turned out afterwards.
The night of the 25th, which was to have been that of our departure, w^e fat late in my room up ftairs, in the back, or mofl private part of the houfe. My little company was holding with me a melancholy council on v/hat had fo recently
happened,
2SO TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
happened, and, in general, upon the unpromif- ing face of our affairs. Our fingle lamp was burn- ing very low, and fuggefted to us that it was the hour of ileep, to which, however, none of us were very much incHned. Georgis, a Greek, who, on account of the forenefs of his eyes had fcaid belov/ in the dark, and had fallen aileep, came running up ftairs in a great fright, and told us he had been wakened bv the noife of men endeavouring to force open the door ; that he hearkened a little, and found there were many of them. Our arms were all ready, and we fnatched them up and ran towards the door ; but 1 ilcpt, and planted them upon the firft landing- place in the ftair-cafe, as I wilhed not to fire till the enemy was fairly in the houfe, that no excufe might remain for this their violation of hofpita- lit.y.
1 llationed Ifmael at the outer door of the houfe, intending that he fhould fire firft, as it would be lefs odious in him, being a Turk and a iherriife, than for us Chriftians, I then went out to the outer gate, and Soliman with me. The entry in- to the yard was through a kind of porters lodge, where fervants ufed to fit in the day time, and iCeep at night. It had a door from the flreet, and tlien another into the yard, the latter fmall but very ftrong. They had forced the outer gate, and were then in the lodge, endeavouring to do the fame by the inner, having put a handfpike under it to lift it up from the hinges. " Are you not madmen, faid 1, and weary of your iiv^es, to
attempt,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE 251
attempt to force Adelan's lioufe, when there are within it men abundantly provided with large fire-arms, that, upon one difcharge through the door, will lay you all dead where you now ftand ?" " Stand by from the door, cries Ifmael, and let me fire. Thefe black Kafrs don't yet know what my blunderbufs is." They had been filent from the time I had fpoken, and had with- drawn the handfpike from under the door. "Ul- lah ! Ullah ! cries one of them foftly, how found you lleep ! we have been endeavouring to waken you this hour. The kins: is ill ; tell Ya2:oube to come to the palace, and open the door inftantly." " Tell the king, faid T, to drink warm water, and I will fee him in the morning," Ah ! Mahomet, cries Soliman, is that you? I thought you had had a narrow enough efcape in the palace the o- ther day, but ftay a little, a fervant is gone over the back wall to call the Gindi, and we are here numerous enough to defend this houfe till morn-
o
ing againft all the fervants the king has, fo do not attempt to break the door, and Yagoube wall go to the kins: with the Gindi.
At this time one of my fervants fired a piftol in the air out of an upper window, upon which they all ran off. They feemed to be about ten or twelve in number, and left three handfpikes behind them. The noife of the piftol brought the guard, or patrole, in about half an hour, v/ho carried in- telligence to the Sid el Coom, our friend, by whom I w^as informed in the morning, that he Jiad found them all out, and put them in irons ;
that
252 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
that Mahomet, the king's fervant, who met us at Teawa, was one of them ; and that there was no poffibility now of concealing this from Adelan, who would order him to be impaled.
Things were now come to fuch a crifis that I was determined to leave my inftruments and pa- pers with Kittou, Adelan's brother, or with the Sid el Coom, while I went to Shaddly to fee Ade- lan. But firft I thought it neceifary to apply to Hagi Belal to try what funds we could raife to provide the necelTaries for our journey. I Ihewed him the letter of Ibrahim, the Englifh broker of Jidda, of which before he had received a copy and repeated advices, and told him I fhould want 200 fequins at leaft, for my camels and proviiions, as well as for fome prefents that I fhould have oc- caiion for, to make my way to the great men in Atbara. Never was furprife better counterfeited than by this man. He held up his hands in the utmoil aftoniihment, repeating, 200 fequins ! over twenty times, and alked me if I thought mo- ney grew upon trees at Sennaar, that it was with the utmoft difficulty he could fpare me 20 dollars, part of which he muft borrow from a friend.
This was a ftroke that feemed to infure our de» ftruclion, no other refource being now left. We were already indebted to Hagi Belal twenty dol- lars for provifion ; we had feven mouths to feed daily ; and as v/e had neither meat, money, nor credit, to continue at Sennaar was impoffible. We had feen, a few nights before, that no houfe could protect us there ; and to leave Sennaar was,
in
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE.
-ys
in our fituation, as impolTible as to ftay there. We had neither camels to carry our provifions and baggage, nor Ikins for our water, nor, in- deed, any provifions to carry, nor money to fup- ply us with any of thefe, nor knew any perfon that could give us afliftance nearer than Cairo, from which we were then diftant about 17^ of the meridian, or above 1 000 miles in a ftraight line ; great part of which was thro' the moll bar- ren, unhofpitable deferts in the world, deftitute of all vegetation, and of every animal that had the breath of life. Hagi Belal was inflexible ; he began now to be weary of us, to fee us but fel- dom, and there was great appearance of his foon withdrawing himfelf entirely.
My fervants began to murmur ; fome of them had known of my gold chain from the begin- ning, and thefe, in the common danger, impart- ed what they knew to the reft. In fhort, I re- folved, though very unwillingly, not to facrifice my own Hfe and that of my fervants, and the finifhing my travels now fo far advanced, to child^ ilh vanitv. I determined therefore to abandon my gold chain, the honourable recompence of a day full of fatigue and danger. Whom to intruft it to was the next conilderation ; and, upon ma- ture deliberation, I found it could be to nobody but Hagi Belal, bad as I had reafon to think he was. However, to put a check upon him, I fent for the Sid el Coom, in whofe prefence I repeated my accufation againft Belal; I read the Seraft's letter in my favour, and the feveral letters that Belal
had
254 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
had written me whilil I was at Gondar, decla- ring his acceptance of the order to furnifh rne with money when I ihould arrive at Sennaar ; and I upbraided him in the ilrongeft terms with dupKcity and breach of faith.
But all that I could fay was very far fbort of the violent expollulation from the Gindi that im- mediately followed. He gave Hagi Belal many not obfcure hints, " that he looked upon this in- jury as done to himfelf, and would repay him ; that though he had done this to pleafe the king, the time might not be far off when that favour u ould be of very little ufe to him ; on the con- trary, might be a reafon for flripping him of all he had in the world." The force of thefe argu- ments feemed to ftrike Hagi Belal's imagination very powerfully. He even offered to advance 50 fequins, and to fee if he could raife any more among his friends. The Gindi (a rare inftance in that country) offered to lend him fifty. But the dye was now caii:, the chain had been produced and feen, and it was become exceedingly dange- rous to carry fuch a quantity of gold in any fhape alono: with me. I therefore confented to fell it to Hagi Belal in prefence of the Gindi, and we im- mediately fet about the purchafe of neceffaries, with this provifo, that if Adelan, upon my go- ing to Shaddly, did furnifh me vv^ith camels and neceffaries, fo much of the chain ihould be re- turned.
It was the 5th of September that we were all prepared to leave this capital of Nubia, an inhof-
pitable
' THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 255
pitable country from the beginning, and which, every day we continued in it, had engaged us in greater difficulties and dangers. Ysfe flattered our- felv^es, that, once difengaged from this bad flep, the greateft part of our fufferlngs was over ; for we apprehended nothing but from men, and, with very great reafon, thought we had feen the worfl: of them.
In the evening: I received a mefTao-e from the king, to come direclly to the palace. I according- ly obeyed, taking two fervants along with me, and found him fitting in a little, low chamber, very neatly fitted up vv^ith chintz, or printed cal- lico curtains, of a very gay and glaring pattern. He was fmoaking with a very lon^ Periian pipe through v/ater, w^as alone, and feem.ed rather grave than in ill-humour. lie gave me his hand to kifs as uiiial, and, after paufmg a moment without fpeaking, (during which 1 v/as Handing before him) a fiave brought me a little llool and kt it down jufl oppoiite to him ; upon which he ,faid, in a low voice, fo that I coukl fcarcely hear him, " Fudda, fit dowUj ' pointing to the ftool. I fat dovv'n accordingly. " You are going, I hear, fays he, to Adelan.^' I anfwered, " YesV' '^Did he fend for you ?" I faid, " No ; but, as I want- ed to return to Egypt, I expecled letters from him in anfwer to thofe I brought lYom Cairo." Retold me- Ali Bey that wrote thcfe let 'cers was dead; and afis-ed me if 1 knew Mahom.et Abou , Dahab? Tagottbe. " Perfediy ; I was well acquaint- ed witli him and the other members of govern-
mcnt.
2^6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ment, al! of whom treated me well, and refpecled my nation." King, " You are not fo gay as when you firft arrived here." Ta, " I have had no very great reafon." Our converfation was now taking a very laconic and ferious turn, but he did not feem to underftand the meaning of what I faid laft. K. " Adelan has fent for you by my defire ; Wed Abroff and all the Jehaina Arabs have rebelled, and will pay no tribute. They fay you have a quantity of powerful fire-arms with you that will Idll twenty or thirty men at a ftiot." 7I2. " Say fifty or fixty, if it hits them." K, '^He is therefore to employ you with your guns to pu- nifh thofe Arabs, and fpoil them of their camels, part of w^hich he will give to you." I prefently underflood what he meant, and only anfwered, *' I am a ftranger here, and deiire to hurt no man. My armxS are for my ovv^n defence againft robbery and violence." At this inflant the Turk, Hagi Ifmael, cried from without the door, in bro- ken Arabic, " Why did not you tell thofe black Kafrs, you fent to rob and murder us the other night, to ftay a little longer, and you would have been better able to judge what our fire-arms can do, without fending for us either to Abroif or Adelan. By the head of the prophet ! let them come in the dav-time, and I will figrht ten of the 'beft you have in Sennaar."
K, " The man is mad, but he brings me to fpeak of what v/as in my head w^hen I defired to fee you. Adelan has been informed that Maho- met, my fervant, who brought you from Teawa,
has
THE SOUR.CE OF THE NILE. 257 .
has been scuilty of a drunken frolic at the door of his houfs, and has fent foldlers to take him to- day, with two or three others of his companions," Ta. '^ I know nothing about Mahomet, nor do I drink with him, or give him drink. About half a fcore of people broke into Adelan^s houfe in the night, with a view to rob and murder us, but I was not at the pains to fire at fuch wretches as thefe. Two or three fervantswith flicks were all that were needfuL I underftand, indeed, that Shekh Adeian is exceedingly difpleafed that I did not fire at thein, and has fent to the Gindi, or- dering- him to deliver two of them to him to-mor- row: to be executed publicly before the door of his houfe on the market-day. But this, you know, is among yourfelves. I am very well pleafed none of them are dead, as they might have been, by my hands or thofe of my people." /f. " True ; but Adelan is not king, and I charge you v/hen you fee him to afk for Mahomet's life, or a con- flderable deal of blame will fall iipon you. V/hen you return back, I will fend him to conduct you to the frontiers of Egypt." Upon this 1 bowed, and took my leave. I went home perfe^lly de- termined what I v/as to do. I had now obtained froiii the king an involuntary fafe-guard till I ihould arrive at Adelan's, that is, I was fure that, in hopes I might procure a reprieve for Mahomet, no trap would be laid for mie on the ro3.d» I de- termined tiierefore to make the beft life of mv time; and every thins; beins^ ready, VvC loaded Vol. V. S . the
25S TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the camels, and fent them forward that night to a fmall village called Soliman, three or four miles from Sennaar, and having fettled my accounts with Hagi Belal, I received back fix links, the miferable remains of one hundred and eighty- four, of which my noble chain once confided.
This traitor kept me the few laft minutes to write a letter to the Englifii at Jidda, to recom- mend him for the fervice he had done me at Sen- naar ; and this I complied with, that I might in- form the broker Ibrahim that I had received no money from his correfpondent, and give him a caution never again to truft Hagi Belal in fimilar circumftances.
CHAP.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 259
CHAP. X.
journey from Sennaar to Chendi^
1\ FTER leaving Sennaar I was overtaken on the road by a black flave, who at firft gave me fome apprehenfion, as I was alone with only one Barbarian, a Nubian fervant, by the fide of my camel, and was going llowly. Upon inquiry I found him to be fent from Hagi Belal, with a balket containing fome green tea and fugar, and four bottles of rack in return for my letter. I fent back the melTenger, and gave the care of the balket to my own fervant ; and, about ten o'clock in the evening of the 5t:h of September, we all met together joyfully at Soliman.
Before my departure from Sennaar I had pre» vailed on a Fakir, or Mahometan monk, fervant to Adelan, to write a letter to his mailer, un- known to any other perfon whatever, to let him know my apprehenfions of the king, and that, in the uncertainty how far his occupations might
S 2 obliee
26o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
blige him to move from Shaddly, my way was directly for Herbagi, and requefting that he would give me fuch recommendations to Wed Ageeb as Ihould put me in fafety from the king's perfecuti- on, and infure me protection and good reception in Atbara. I be2f2:ed him, in the moft ferious manner, to confider, however flightly he had thought of the king of Abyffinia's recommenda- tory letters, he would not treat thofe of the re- gency of Cairo, and of the flierrifFe of Mecca, in the fame manner ; that my nation was highly ref- peeled in both places ; and that it was known, by letters written from Sennsar, that I acluaUy v/as arrived there ; that they fhould take care there- fore, and not by iil-ufage of me expofe their mer° chants, either at MeccaL or Cairo, to a fevere re- /caliation that would immediately follow the re- ceiving bad news of me, or no news at all. My faithful Soliman, who was now to leave me, was charged to carry the anfwers they fliould choofe to return to the letters 1 brought from Abyffinia, and I fent him that very night, together with the Fakir, to Adelan at Shaddiy, fully inftrucled v^ith every particular of ill-ufage I had received from the kinp-, of which, he had been an eye-witnefs.
AJthough my fervants, as well as Hagi Belal, and every one at Sennaar but the Fakir and Soli- man, did imagine I was going to Shaddiy, yet their own fears, or rather good fenfe, had con- vinced them that it was better to proceed at once for Atbara than ever again to be entangled be- tween Adelan and the king. Sennaar fat heavy
upon
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 261
Upon all their fpirits, fo that I had fcarce dif- mounted from my camel, and before I tailed food, whi ch that day 1 had not done, when they all in- treated mQ with one voice that I would coniider the dangers I had efcaped, and, inflead of turn- ing weflward to Shaddly, continue north through Atbara. They promifed to bear fatigue and hun- ger chearfully, and to live and die with me, pro- vided I would proceed homeward, and free them from the horrors of Sennaar and its kin 2;. 1 did not feem to be convinced by what they faid, but ordered fupper, to which we all fat down in com- pany. As we had lemons enough, and Hagi Be- lal had furniOied us with fugar, we opened a bot- tle of his rack, and in punch (the liquor of our country j drank to a happy return thro' Atbara,
I then told them my refolution was perfeclly conformable to their wifhes ; and informed them of the meafures I had taken to infure fuccsfs and remove danger as much as poilible. I recom- mended diligence, fobriety, and iubordination, as the only means of arriving happily at the end propofed ; and aiTured them all we iliould ill are one common fare, and one common fortune, till our journey was terminated by good or bad fuc- cefs. Never was any difcourfe more gratefully received ; every toil was welcome in flying from Sennaar, and they already began to think them-, felves at the gates of Cairo.
As I had recomimended great diligence and lit- tle ileep, before four in the morning the camels were loaded, and on their way, and it was then
only
362 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
only they came to awake me. The camels were abundantly loaded, and we had then but five, four of which carried all the baggage, the other, a fmaller one, was referved for my riding. This I told them I willingly accepted at the beginning of the journey, and we fhould all of us take our turn, while water and provifions were to be pro- cured, and that Ifmael the Turk, an old man, and Georgis the Greek, almoil blind, required an ad- ditional coniideration, fo long as it poifibly could be done with fafety to us all ; but, when we fliould advance to the borders of the defer t, we muft all refolve to pafs that journey on foot, as upon the quantity of water, and the quantity of provifions alone, to be carried by us, could depend our hopes of ever feeing home.
On the 8th of September we left the village of Soliman, and about three o'clock in the afternoon came to Wed el Tumbel, which is not a river, as the name would feem to fignify, but three villa- ges fituated upon a pool of water, nearly in a line from north to fouth. The intermediate country between this and Herbagi is covered with great crops of dora. The plain extends as far as the fight reaches. Though there is not much wood, the country is not entirely deftitute of it, and the farther you go from Sennaar the finer the trees. At Wed el Tumbel there is great plenty of ebony- buihes, and a particular fort of thorn which feems to be a fpecies of dwarf acacia, with very fmall leaves, and long pods of a ftrong faccharine tafte. This is here in great abundance, and is called
Lauts,
THE SOURCE OF TrfE NILE. 263
Lauts, or Loto, which I fufpeci: to be the tree on whofe fruit, we are told, the ancient Libyans fed. At a quarter paft three we left Wed el Tumbel, and entered into a thick wood, in which we tra- velled till late, when we came to the Nile. We continued along the river for about 500 yards, and alighted at Sit el Bet, a fmall village about a mile's diflance from the ftream. Here we faw the tomb of a Shekh, or faint, built of brick in a co- nical form, much after the fame figure as fome we had feen in Barbary, which were of ftone.
On the 1 2th, at ten minutes paft fix we fet out from Sit el Bet, and a few minutes after came to a village called Ageda, and five miles further to another, whofe name is Ufheta. At half paft nine we palled a third village, and at half after eleven encamped near a pool of water, called Wed Hy- dar, or the River of the Lion. All the wav from Wed el Tumbel to this village we were much tor- mented with the fly, the very noife of which put our camels in fuch a fright that they ran violently into the thickeft trees and bufties, endeavouring to bruih off their loads. Thefe flies do not bite at night, nor in the cool of the morning. We were freed from this difagreeable companion at Wed Hydar, and were troubled with it no more.
At four o'clock we again fet out through an extenfive plain, quite deftitute of wood, and all fown with dora, and about five miles further we encamped at a place named Shwyb, where there is a Shekh called Welled Abou Hafl^an. While at Abou Hailan, we were furprifed with a violent
ftorm
204 TRAVELS TO DISCOVEH
frorm of rain and wind, accompanied witli .jeaC liafhes of lin-litians;. This ilorm btinq; - i over, we proceeded to a vil-ar^'e called Irniuri. ^nt one mile and a half further we joined the river. The Nile here is in extreme beauty, and winds conflderably ; it is broader than at Sennaar, the banks flat, and quite covered with acacia and other trees in full bloom. The thick parts of this wood wereilored with great niuiibers of antelopes, while the open places were covered Vvith large flocks of cattle belon2:ino: to the Arabs Refaa, wTio were returning from the fands to their paftures to the fouthward. Larg:e flocks of llorks, cranes, _and a variety of other birds, w^ere fcattered throughout the olain, which v/as overgrrown wdth fine pTafs, and which e%^en the multitude of cat- lie that thronged upon it feemed not capable of confuming. At three quarters paft ^iil in the evening we came to a large village called V/ed Medinai, clofe upon the fide of the river, v/nich here bavin (^ made alaro-eturn, comes ag;ain from the S. E. This tovn or village belongs to a Fakir, who received us very hofpitably. "
On the i/ith, at fix in the mornincr we fet out from Wed Medinai in a direclion N. V7. and at three quarters paft eight arrived at the village Be- roule. V7e then entered a thick w^ood, and thence into a very exteniive and cultivated plain, fov/n with dora and bammia ; a plant which 'makes a principal article in their food all over the fouthern part of the kingdom of Sennaar, which is defcribed, and the iiguic of it -publilhed, by
Profper
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 265
Profper Alpinus*. At a quarter paft eleven we arrived at. Azazo, abqut a mile and a halfdiiiant from the Nile. The corn feeined here much more forward than at Sennanr, and in feveral places it was in the ear. It rained copioufly in the night of the 14th, but >before this there had been a very- dry feafon 5 and very great fcarcity the preceding year. At ten rranutes pafc four in the afternoon we left Azazo, our journey, like that of the day before, partly through thick woods, and partly through plains fown with dora. Our direction was nearly north, and the river about two miles and a half diftant, nearly parallel to the road we went. At fix we cam.e to a flnail villaq:e called Sidi Ali el Genowi,
On the 1 6th, at half pail fix in the morning we left Sidi Ali ei Genowi, and ar few minutes afcer paffed two villages on our left along the river fide, not fifty yards from the water, after which we went through the ^■iHage of El Menfy, The next to this were tv/o tombs of Fakirs, nothing dif- ferent from the former ones. At a quarter pail ten we arrived at Herbagi, a large and pleafant village, but thinly inhabited, placed on a dry, gravelly foil. The people told us, that the greateft part of the tovv^nfmen were at fome diiiance look- ing after their farm.s. Herbagi is the feat of Wed Ageeb, hereditary prince of the Arabs, nowfub- jecl to the government of Sennaar, whofe lieute- nant he is according to treaty. He raifes the tri-
butCj
* Vid. Profper Alpin. cap. 27, page 44. torn. 3.
266 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
bute, and pays it to the Mek, or his minifters, from all thofe Arabs that live in the diftant parts of the kingdom, as far as the Red Sea, who do not pafs by Sennaar to the fands, in the feafon of the fly ; for thefe, as I have mentioned, are taxed by the chief minifter, or the perfon who hath the command of the troops of that capital. 1 he re- venue ariling from this is very large, and more than all the reft put together. The Refaa, one tribe of Arabs who had compounded at this time with Shekh Adelan, were faid to pofTefs 200,000 fhe-cameis, every one of which, at a medium, v/as worth half an ounce of sroid, each ounce be- ing about ten crowns. The tribute then which that Arab paid was 100,000 ounces of gold, or 1,000,000 dollars or 250,000!. There were at ieaft ten of thefe tribes with which Adelan was to account, and at Ieaft ilx times that number that fell to the ihare of Vfed Ageeb, whofe compolition is the fame as that paid to Sennaar, beiides what- ever extraordinary fum he impofes for himfelf. There is alfo a tax upon the male camels ; but this is fmall in comparifon of the others, and the young ones pay no duty, till they are three years old.
Camels fleih is the ordinary food of the Arabs ; but there is ftili room to inquire what becomes of the prodigious cumbers of this animal annually confumed. The caravan of Mecca requires a large fupply, and vaft numbers are employed in the fervice of Damafcus, of Syria and Perlia, and ef- pecially of Sudan, whofe caravans traverfe Africa
from
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 267
from eaft to weft with Indian commodities, v/hich they carry from the Arabian Gulf to the Atlantic Ocean. Thefe, and this vaft inland trade of which they were mailers, the gold, ivory, pearls and tortoife fliells, that ferved for returns to India, were the fource of the riches and power of thofe Shepherds, of which fo many things are recorded in ancient hiftorv almoft exceedino: be- lief.
Immediately upon entering Herbagi, I Vvxnt to wait upon Wed Ageeb. Ke had a very good houfe confidered as fuch, though but a very indifferent palace for a prince. He feemed to be a jnan of very gentle manners ; was about 30 years of age ; had a thick black beard and whifkers, laree black eyes, and along thin face, which marked his con- ftitution not to be a ftrong one. We found, in- deed, afterwards, that he had been very much addicted to drinking, which he had often endea- voured in vain to leave off, by fubftituting opium in its place. He had never before feen an Euro- pean, and teftified great furprife at my com- plexion. He fent us abundance of proviiions, tw^o ilieep and tvv^o goats, and begged I would ffive him advice about his health in the eveninp*. He inquired very particularly about my reception -at Sennaar, which I told him only in part, and, among other circum.ilances, the report at Sennaar that he was gathering his forces to the afTiftance of the king againft Adelan and Abou Kalec. He anfwered with a fneer, " Gehennim elKafr, /. e. The Pagan may go to helL He fpoke coatemptu-
oufly
255 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
oisfly of tlie king of Setinaar, ]but very refpect- fully of^ Adelan and Abou Kalec, any one of whofe little fingers, he faid, was fuillcient to crulh tile Mek, and all who adhered to him. I then took my leave, and went home to reft.
On the ijth, at noon, I obferved the meridian sititiide of the fan, and found the latitude of the place to be 14° 30' N. but this obfervation was made with liadley's quadrant, that I might fave time, being Vvdlling to advance to as great a dif- ts.nce as pofiible from Sennaar, fo there rnay be perhaps a minute of error, and more there ought not to be, as it v/as confirmed by feveral obferva- tions at night. The inilrument, infpecled and reclified by day light, was examined,v and I found it to~ be without alteration before uiino; it at
liight.
Axbout eio^it o'clock in the evening^ I went to feeWed Ageeb, who had fupped, and was drink- ing forbet made of tamarinds, I believe rather to fweeten his breath than from thirfl;, for he had apparently drunk of ilronger liquor before he took the forbet. He told me that a fervant of Adelan was arrived that evening from the camp, who liad brought him a letter and mefTages on my ac- count, and bade me be of good courage, for I ihould be fafer in my tent than in Adelan's houfe at Sennaar ; that tvo men had been executed for attempting to rob i^delan's houfe ; and that Ma- homet, the king's fervant, was deftined to fuifer upon a flake, as focn as ever Adelan ihould move at a greater diflance from Shekh Sh.addly's tomb,
where
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 269
where fuch executions could not be performed with decency.
I made him a fmall prefent of muilin, which I had bought at Sennaar ; and, in the courfc of converfation, he told me that the Moorilh troops from Ras el Feel had burnt Teawa ; that the Da- veina were with them, and had plundered the Je- haina, and forced Fidele to fly to Bey la. I aiked if any Chriftian troops were among them ? fni- pecling much Ay to Engedan and Ay to Confu. He faid there were none but the Moors of Ras el Feel, the Ganjar horfe of Kuara, and the Arabs Daveina. As 1 did not wi£h to be known in this matter, I pufhed. my enquiries no further : I afked him to provide me with one of his men for fear of the Shukorea Arabs, with which he com- plied, adding, that he was himfelf going out to the Shukorea, and would fend a m.an to Halfaia, where I was to coniider, and acquaint him, whe- ther I was to pafs the Nile at Gerri, and go hj the defert of Bahiouda and Dongola, or by the more unfrequented way of Chendi, Barbar, and the sfreat defert, the fatigues and danp^ers c£ which he thought it inipoiiible for a European to fufFer, but would' give me a letter to Sittina Ills lifter, to v/hom that country belonged. After Chendi, lie alTured me there v/as no protedion to be relied upon but that of lieaven. This fenfibie difcourfe v/as of great fervice to me, as it fet me all the reft of the journey oipon the inquiry as to the proper fteps for performing this dangerous
expeditioii.
Oa
i7o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
On the iSth, at feven o'clock I left Herbagi, after writing a letter to Adelan, thanking him for his punctuality and care of me, and giving the fervant that had come on the errand a fmall pre- fent. He told me it would be ten days before he returned to the camp ; with which laft intelligence I was very well pleafed, as thereby no informa- tion could arrive where I was, till I was forgot, or out of their power. At ten minutes paft eleven \vc arrived at Wed el Frook, a fmall village clofe upon the Nile. Nothing could be more beautiful than the country w^e palTed that day, partly co- vered with very pleafant v/oods, and partly in lawns, with a few fine fcattered trees. The Nile is a ihort quarter of a mile from the village, and is fully half a mile broad. It runs fmooth, and when in inundation, overflov/s the fmall fpace of ground between its prefent banks and Wed el Frook. It was now considerably lower than it had been, and v/as confined within its banks.
On the 19th we fet out from Wed el Frook at half paft five in the morning, and about four miles from it came to a large village, and the tomb of a Fakir, the Nile running all the way parallel to our road. At ten o'clock we came to another villao-e called Abouafcar : and a little wav eaft of it, in the river, there is a large iiland con- fiderably above the v/ater, where ihrubs and grafs grow abundantly. The village is placed upon a fmall hiil, and there are a great many of the fame fize and fhape fcattered about the country on the banks of the river, \^^hich add greatly to the
beauty
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 271
beauty of it, as we had not yet feen fuch fince our leaving Sennaar. At three quarters paft one we came to the vilL^ge of Kamily. The country here is mor/e open, the foil lighter, the grafs Ihort and thin ; it is ail laid out in pafmre, and there is here plenty of goats, as well as black cattle. This day we met a caravan from Egypt, lafl from Chendi, who brought us word that ±\li Bey was depofed, and Mahomet Abou Dahab w^as made Bey in his place. They faid, one part of the caravan, that went before them, had been attacked and cut off by the Bifliareen under Abou Ber tran ; that they had efcaped by a few hours only, and that all the road was fo infefted with robbers, that it was a miracle if any one could pafs.
On the 20th wt left Kamily at a quarter pail five in the morning, and at about fix miles (the diftance between that and Vs/'ed Tyrab) we paiTed a bare and fandy country, interfperfed with fmali coppices, and three quarters paft ten came to Biihaggara. This is a large village, fomething above a mile's diftance from the Nile, which fpace is entirely taken up v/ith brufhwood, without any timber trees. We begin now to fee the effects of the quantity of rain having failed. There was lit- tle fown, and that fo late as to be fcarcely above the ground. It feems the rains begin later as they pafs northward. Many people were here emiploy- ed in gathering p^rals feeds* to make a very bad kind of bread. Thefe people appear perfed ikeie- tons, and no wonder, as they live upon fuch fare. Nothing increafes the danger of travelling, and
prejudice
* We had feen Ihlspradifed too by the Agovvs at the fouice of ih^ MUc
272 TRA.VELS TO DISCOVER
prejudice againfl ftrangers, more than the fcarcity of provilions in the country through which you are to pafs.
At fifty minutes paft three in the afternoon we left Bifhaggara, and at feven came to Eltie, a ftraggling village, about half a mile from the Nile, in the north of a large, bare plain, all paf- ture, except the banks of the river, which are covered with wood. We now no longer faw any corn fown : The people here were at the fame mi- ferable employment as thofe we had feen before, that of gathering grafs feeds ; yet, though ftarv- ing, they brought us plenty of milk in exchange for tobacco, a com.modity very much in requeil in thefe parts. At half paft ten we arrived at Gi- did ; the houfes were built of clay, with terraf- fed roofs : on our way we paifed through feveral little cantonments of Nuba. All this country is fand, interfperfed with thick coppices and acacia- t-rees that feemied not to thrive. On the other fide are large, dead, fandy plains, but both fides of the river are covered with wood. The ferry over the Nile is here from the weft to the eaft. The country about Gidid, efpecially to the weft- ward, is very bare and barren, and fcarcely pro- duces any thing faving grafs and bent, of which' the poor people ufe the feed for bread. This is the cafe all to the weftward of El-aice ; and the country here, for want of rain, is faft dwindling into a defert, and, the foil is changed to fand. Ihere is no corn, though, from the vicinity of two large rivers, it produces grafs enough for cat- tle,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 273
tie, fheep, and goats, and there is as yet plenty of milk : but as fbon as the fun fhines conftantly, no herbage will remain that can be food for any other cattle but goats, and at laPi the whole be- comes a perfect defert, capable of nouriiliing no- thing but antelopes and oftriches.
On the 2 1 ft, at feven in the morning we left Gidid, and near three miles further we came to the paiTage, and defcended a long way with the current before we landed. The manner they pafs the camels at this ferry is by faftening cords un- der their hind quarters, and then tying a halter to their heads. Two men fuftain thefe cords, and a third the halter, {o that the camels, by fwim- ming, carry th'e boat on fhore. One is faftened on each iide of the Hern, and one alonar each fide of the ftem. Thefe ufeful beafts fuffer much hj this rude treatm.ent, and miany die in the paffage, with all the care that can be taken, but often through malice, or out of revenge. Thefe boat- m.en privately put fait in the cam.els ears, which makes the animal defperate and ungovernable, till, by fretting and plunging his head conftantly in th€ water, he lofes his breath, and is drowned ; the boatmen then have gaired their end, and feaft upon the }Seih. But the Arabs, when they pafs their canicls, ufe a goat's fkin, blown, with wind like a bladder, which they tie to the fore part of the camel, and this fupports him where he is heavieft, while the man, fitting behind on his rump, guides him, for this animal is a very bad fwimmer, being heavieft before The boats
Vol. V. T here
274 TRAVELS TO DISCOVEa
here are larger and better made than in any other part on the river. All between the Mile and Ha- lifoon is bare ground, interfperfed with acacia- trees. The lofs of a camel is very confiderable, but the price of ferrying very moderate ; it is only three mahalacs for each camel, with his mer- chandife and every thing belonging to him. The river is fomething more than a quarter of a mile broad, but is double that meafure in the rainy feafon, the current very violent, and flrong at all times.
Not withftan ding our boatmen had a very bad charader at this time, we paffed with our camels and baggage without lofs or accident. Theyfeemed indeed to fliew a very indifferent countenance at firft, but good words, and a promife of recom- pence, prefently rendered them tractable. By half paft twelve we were all fafe on the other fide, and at thirty-five minutes paft three we arrived at Halifoon, about five miles from the ferry on the eaft fide of the Nile. One mark of the boat- men's attention I cannot but mention : The wea- ther was very hot, and we had plenty of time ; the water being clear and tempting, I propofed fwimming over to the other fide for the pleafure of bathing; but they, one and all, oppofed my defign with great violence, and would not fuffer me to undrefs. They faid there was a multitude of crocodiles in the river near that place, and al' though they were not large enough to kill, or carry off a camel, they very often wounded them, and it would be a wonder if we pafTed without
feeing
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 275
feeing them ; indeed the laft boat had not reached the fliore before two of them rofe in the middle of the ftream. I made what hafte I could to get a gun, and fired at the largeft, but, as far as I could judge, without effect.
On the 2 2d, at three o'clock in the afternoon we left Halifoon, and by ten at night came to Halfaia, a large, handfome, and pleafant town, although built with clay. The houfes are terraf- fed at the tops, their inhabitants being no longer afraid of the rains, which have been for fome time here very inconliderable. The Battaheen were encamped near Umdoom, a large village on the fide of the river, about feven miles from Halifoon. They are a thieviih, pilfering fet, and we palfed them early in the morning, before it was light. The road is very pleafant, through woods of aca«> cia-trees, interfperfed with large fields covered with bent grafs. At Umdoom we found troops of women going to their morning occupation, that of gathering feeds to make bread.
The command of Mahomet Wed Ageeg is very extenfive. It reaches from this paiTage of the ri- ver at Halifoon on the fouth, as far as Wed Baal a Nagga on the north, and to the eafl as far as the Red Sea, though a great part of thofe Arabs have been in rebellion, and have not paid their tax for fome' years. His command on the wefl:- ward of the river reaches to Korti, all over the defert of Bahiouda, though lately the Beni Gerar, Beni Faifara, and Cubba-beefh, have expelled the ancient Arabs of Bahiouda, who pretend now
T 2 only
276 TRAVELS t6 DISCOVER-.
only to bs the fubjecls of Kordofan He hasalfo the charge of levying the tribute of horfes from Dongola, in which confiils the great ftrength of Sennaar.
Halfaia is the limit of the rains, and is fituated upon a large circular peninfula furrounded by the, Nile from S. W. to N. W. that is, at ail the points of W. it is half a mile, or fomething m.ore from the river. This peninfula contains all their fown land and is not watered by the river, but by what is raifed from the flream by wheels turned by oxen. Halfaia confifls oF about three hundred houfes ; their principal gain is from a manufacture of very coarfe cotton cloth, called Dim.our, which ferves for fmall money through all the lower parts of Atbara. There are palm-trees at Halfaia, but they produce no dates. The people here eat cats, alfo the river-horfe and the crocodile, both of which are in great plenty. Halfaia, by many alti- tudes of the fun and flars, was found to be in lat. 15^ 45' 54? ^^^ '^^ long. 32^ 49' 15" eafl from the meridian of Greenwich.
On the 29th, at fix o'clock in the miorning we left Halfaia, and continued our journey about 3 miles and a half further, when we came to two villages, a iiTiall one to the north and a large one- to the weft. The Nile h^re runs N. E. of us. This whole day was fpent in woods of a very pl'eafant kind; there were large numbers of birds of vari-. ous colours, but none of them, fo far as I could hear fince we left Sennaar, endowed wdth the gift
of
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 277
of foiig. Sakies* in the plain, all between the Nile and the road, lift the water from, the flream, and pour it on the land, in hopes that it may pro- duce fome miferable crops of dora ; for the river overflows none of this country, and it is very precarioufly and fcantily watered with rain.
In a little time, continuing our journey, we came to Shekh Atman's, the tomb of a Fakir on the road. There is ahic^h rids^e of mountains on our left, weft of the Nile about five miles, and a low rido-e on our riq:ht, about eig^ht miles difcant : our direction was ftraight north. At half paft eight, about five miles further, w^e came to the villaire Vfed Hoiiia. The river Abiad, Vv^hich is larger than the Nile, joins it there, "till the Nile prefer ves the name of Bahar" el Azergue, or the Blue River, which it got at Sennaar. The village was once intended to be built at the junction of the two rivers, but the Fakir's tomb being on the fide of the -Nile, the village likewife Vv^as placed there. The Abiad is a very deep river ; it runs dead and w^ith little inclination, and preferve its ftream always undiminifhed, becaufe rifing in la- titudes where there are continual rains, it there- fore fuffers not the decreafe the Nile does bv the fix months dry weather. Our whole journey this day was through v/oogs, with large intervals of fandy plains producing nothing except fome few ipots of corn fown in time of the Ihowers, while
the
* A machine for raifing water from the Nile, otherwife called tht P, v- fia.i wheel.
278 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
the fun returned over the zenith, butftill looking very poorly. At half pall twelve we arrived at Suakem, under trees, near a fakia. At four o'clock in the afternoon we left Suakem, the mountains of Gerri bearing N. E. of us, and five miles fur- ther, alighted in a wood near the Arabs Abdelab. On the 30th, at five o'clock in the morning we left this ftation, and after having gone eight miles N. E. we came to a village, which is, as it were, the fuburb of Gerri. The Acaba of Gerri is a low ridge of rocks that feems firft to run from both fides acrofs the bed of the river, as if de- figned to fi:op it ; and it is impofiible to look at the gap through which it falls down below, with- out thinking that this paflage was made by the Nile itfelf wheii firft it began to flow. Gerri is built on a rifing ground, confifting of white, bar- ren fand and gravel, intermixed with white ala- bafter like pebbles, which, in a bright fun, are extremely difagreeable to the eye. It confifts of about 140 houfes, none of them above one ftory high, neat, well built, flat-roofed, and all of one height, compofed with the fame coloured earth as that on which it ftands, and, for this reafon, it is fcarcely vifible at a diftance. It is immedi- ately at the foot of the Acaba, fomething more than a quarter of a mile from the Nile. Gerri is fituated at the end of the tropical rains, in lat. 16° 15', and the Acaba feems to anfwer thofe mountains of Ptolemy, beyond which (that is to
the
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 279
the the N.J he fays it is hafxixo^ ««» a^^oxoy x'»?<^*9 ^^^^ ^s, a country full of fand and without rain ; it is but a fmall fpot immediately on the Nile, which is all cultivated, as it enjoys the double advantage both of the overflowing of the river and the accidental Ihowers. It is alfo called Beladullah, or the Coun- try of God, on account of this double bleiling. The dates of Gerri are fent to the Mek, and are referved on purpofe for him. They are dry, and never ripen, nor have any of the moift and pulpy fubftance of the dates of Barbary. Ihey are firm and fmooth in the fkin, and of a golden co- lour.
On the I ft of Odober, at half paft five in the morning we left Gerri, the Acaba continuing on the eaft and weft, but the two extremities curv- ing like a bow or an amphitheatre. This ridge of mountains is compofed of bare, red ftone, with- out any grafs. At ten minutes after eight we changed our road to N. E. endeavouring to turn the point of the Acaba about three miles off, and at ten o'clock alighted among green treea to feed our camels. At three o^clock in the afternoon we left our refting place in the wood. The moun- tains, which were then on our left hand, are thofe ofthe Acaba of Gerri ; but thofe on the right ftill ran parallel to our courfe, and ended in the Acaba of Mornefs ; we were now two miles from the river, its courfe due north. About twenty minutes paft four we came to the Acaba of Mor- nefs,
f Ptol. Geograph. lib. ir. cap. 8.
28o TRAVELS TO DICCOVER
nefs, a ridge of bare, ftoney hills, and half 9,n hour after we palled it. There is very little aicent, and the road is only ioofe, brok-m ftones, which lad about a quarter of an hour.
At iix o^clock in the evening we came to Kajar el Alfad, or Hajaf Serrareek, the firft.fignifying the Lion's Stone, the next the Stone of Thieves, a beggarly, ilraggling village, where there is a fakia, and fmaii ftripes of dora, as if fown in a garden, and watered from the well at pieafare. Haiarei Aiiad is the boundary between Wed A^eeb and the Mek of Chendi ; it is a yellow Pcone fet upon a rock, w^hich they imagine has the figure of a lion. We now alighted near half a mile from the river, in a fmall plain, where was only one Ihepherd with his cot and flock. At fome difcance near the river, there was a houfe or two with fa- kies. September is the feed-timic in this country. When the Nile is at its height, the flat ground along the fide of the water, which is about a quar- ter ^ of a mile broad, is fow^n vvith dora, as far as water can be conducted in rills to it, but after this fhort fpace, the ground rifes imm.ediately ; there the harveil-time is in November; and thefeed-time at Sennaar is in July, and their harvefl in Septem- ber ; both regulated by the height of the Nile at the refpeclive places.
On the 2d of October, at half paft five in the morning we left Hajar el AlTad ; for the two laft days paft our journey lay through woods and de- fert, without water or villages^, we refled upon the Nile, which foon receded from us. itfter hav- ing
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. iSi
ing: Pone about tv/o miles we h.w^ ferns fmall Iioufes and faides, Vvdth narrow ftripes of corn on both fides of the river. About a mile further, we began-, inflead of. the fandy ,-defert, to iee large fir at urns of purple, red and white marble, and alfo alabailer. k feems as if thofe immenfe quar- ries, which run in CO Upper Egypt lo^ N. from this, firif take their rife here. Ihis day we jour- nied through woods of acacia and jujebs. At twenty minutes paft eight we alighted in a wood to feed our camels. The fun was fo immoderately hot that we could not travel. The Nile ffom Ger- ri declines almofl infenfibly from the E. of N. The whole country is defert and ivithout inhabitants, faving the banks of the river ; for there are here no regular rains that can be depended upon at any certain time for the purpofe of agriculture ; only -there fall violent fliowers at the time the iun is in the zenith, on his progrefs fouthward.from the tropic of, Cancer towards the Line, and the grafs grows up very luxuriantly in all the fpots watered by thefe accidental ihowers ; but all the reft of the country is dry and burnt up.
Near Gerri, a little north, is the lar^e rock Acaba, full of caves, the firft habitations of the builders of Meroe. A little below it is the ferry over which thofe who go by the weft fide of the Nile to Dongola, through the defert of ^ahiouda, muft all pafs. It is five days journey before you come to Korti, where travellers arrive the morn- ing of the fixth, that is,, going at the rate of fif.. teen miles a- day. Near Korti you again m.eet the
Nil
c
282 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Nile, which has taken a very unnatural turn from Magiran, or where it meets the Tacazze from An- got. The way through this defert, which was that of Poncet, is now rendered impaflable, as I have already faid, by the Beni Faifara, Beni Ge- rar, and Cubba-beefli Arabs, three powerful clans, which come from the weftward near Kordofan from fear of the black horfe there, and which have taken poiTeffion of all the wells in that de- fert, fo that it is impoffible for travellers to avoid them. The Cubba-beefli are fo called, from kebfh*, a iheep, becaufe they wear the Ikin of that animal for cloathing. They are very numer- ous, and extend far into the great defert Selima and to the frontiers of Egypt. Thefe tribes have cut off the laft three caravans coming from Don- gola and Egypt. This ferry, and the Acaba be- yond it, belongs to Wed Ageeb ; and here all goods, paffing to and from Egypt, Dongola, and Chendi, pay a duty, which is not regulated as to its extent, but is levied arbitrarily, according to circumilances of the times, and paid to the Shu- korea, or other Arabs, who are in the neighbour- hood, which happen from February to July. The Mek, or prince of the Arabs, paffes them by fair means or force. After the rains become conllant thefe go eaftward to Mendera and Gooz, and then the road from Sennaar to Suakem through thefe places becoming dangerous on account of all the other Arabs alTembling there to avoid the
fly.
I * Kebfh, a Iheep; pi. Cubba-beelh, flieey.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 283
fly, the caravan of Suakem is obliged to pafs through Halfaia to Barbar, and from thence to Suakem, fo that this was the moft frequented road in the kingdom. Now, indeed, the commu- nications on all fides are obftrucled by the anarchy that prevails among the Arabs, fo that he who pafTes to or from Egypt mufl depend folely upon his own exertions and the protedlion of Heaven.
The Acaba of Gerri, and the banks of the Nile there, are inhabited by tribes of Arabs, called Beni Hamda, and HafTani. They are all poor and miferable banditti, and would not fufFer a man to pafs there at the ferry were it not for the extraordinary dread they have of fire-arms. The report of a gun, even at a diftance, will make a hundred of them fly and hide themfelves. We gave them feveral vollies of blunderbulTes, and double-barrelled guns, fired in the air, from the time of our entering their territory till near Wed Baal a Nagga ; we faw them upon the tops of the pointed rocks as far diftant as we could wiih, nor did they ever appear nearer us, or dcfcend into the plain.
At Halfaia and Gerri begins that noble race of horfes juftly celebrated all over the world. They are the breed that was introduced here at the Sa- racen conqueft, and have been preferved unmix- ed to this day. They feem to be a diftincl animal from the Arabian horfe, fuch as I have feen in the plains of Arabia Deferta, fouth of Palmyra and Damufcus, where I take the moft excellent
of
zSa. travels to discoveh
"T
of the Arabian breed to be, in the tribe of Mo- w.L.ii and Annccy, which is about iat. 36^ ; whitft Dongola and the dry country near it feems to be the center of excellence for this nobler animal, fo that the bounds within which the horfe is in its greateil perfection feems to be between the de- grees of Iat. 20'% and 36^, and betv/een long. -^o*^ eaft from the meridian of Greenwich to the banks of the Euphrates. For this extent Fahren- heit's thermometer is never below 50^ in the nl^ht, or in the day feblow 80°, though it may rife to 120^ at noon in the {hade, at which point horfes are not aflefled by the heat, but will breed a> they do at Halfaia, Gerri, and Dongola, where the thermometer rifes to thefe de^frees. Thefe
o
countries, from what has been faid, muft of courfe be a dry, fandy defert, with little water, producing fiiort, or no grafs, but only roots, v/hich are blanched like our cellery, being al- ways covered with earth, having no marihes or fwamps, fat foapy earth, or mould.
I Fiever heard of wild horfeS in any of thefe parts. Arabia Deferta, where they are faid to be, feems very ill calculated to conceal them, it being flat v/ithout wood or cover, they niuil therefore beconftantly in view ; and I never heard any per- fon of veracity fay they ever fa w wild horfes in Arabia. Wild affes I have frequently feen alive, but never dead, in neck, head, face, and tail ve- ry like ours, only their jQiins are ftreaked, not fpotted. The zebra is found nowhere in AbylTi-. jiia, but in the S. "W. extremity of Euara among
the
THE SOUFXE OF THE NILE. 285
the Shangalla and Guba, in Narea and Cafia, and in the mountains of Dyre and Tegia, and to the fouthward near as far as the Cape.
What fif;j:ure the Nubian breed would make in point of fleetnefs is very doubtful, their make be-" ing fo entirely different from that of the Arabi- an ; but if beautiful and fymmetrical. parts, great iize and ftrength, the mod agile, nervous, and elaftic movements, great endurance of fatigue, docility of temper, and feeming attachment to man, beyond any other dotneflic animal, can pro- mife any thmg for a ftallion, the Nubian is, above all comparifon, the moil: eligible in the worjd. Few men have feen more horfes, or more of the different places v/here they are excellent, than I have, and no one ever more delighted in them, as far as the manly exercife went. What thefe may produce for the turf is what I cannot fo much as guefs, as there is not, I believe in the world, one more indifferent to, or ignorant of, that amufement than I am. The experiment would be worth trying in any view. The ex- pence would not be great, yet there might be fom.e trouble and application neceiTary, but, if adroitly managed, not much even of that.
I could not refrain from attemptinp; a drav.^inp' of one of them, v/hich I iince, and but very late- ly, unfortunately miilaid. It vv as a horfe of Shekh Adelan, which with fome difiiculty I had liberty to draw. It was not quite four years old, was full 1 6 hands iiigh : I mean this only as an idea ; I know the faults of my drawing, and could cor-
reft
286 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
re<^ many of them ; but it is a rule I have invari- ably adhered to in this, as well as in defcription, to correct nothing from recolleclion when the ob- je6l is out of my fight. This horfe's name wa^ El Fudda, the meaning of which I will not pre- tend to explain. In Egypt this is the name of a fmall piece of monc^/ clipped into points, other- wife called a parat ; but, very probably, the name of horfes in Nubia may have as little aliuiion to the quality of the animal as the names which our race-horfes have in England ; they are, however, very jealous in keeping up their pedigree. All noble horfes in Nubia are faid to be defcended of one of the five upon which Mahomet and his four immediate fuccelTors, Abou Beer, Omar, Atman, and Ali, fled from Mecca to Medina, the night of the Hegira. From which of thefe El Fudda was defcended I did not inquire 5 Shekli Adelan, arm- ed, as he fought, with his coat of mail and war faddle, iron-chained bridle, brafs cheek-plates, front-plate, breaft -plate, large broad-fword, and battle-ax, did not weigh lefs upon, the horfe than 26 flone, horfeman's weight. This horfe kneel- ed to receive his mafler, armed as he was, when he mounted, and he kneeled to let him difmount armed like wife, fo that no advantage could be ta- ken of him in thofe helplefs times when a man is obliged to arm and difarm himfelf piece by piece on horfeback. Adelan, in war, was a fair-play- er, and gave every body his chance. He was the firft man always that entered among the enemy, and the lafl to leave them, and never changed
this
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 287
this horfe. The horfes of Halfala and Gerri do not arrive at the fize of thofe in Dongola, where few are lower than 1 6 hands. They are black or white, but a vaft proportion of the former to the latter. I never faw the colour we call grey, that is, dappled, but there are fome bright bays, or in- dining to forel. They are all kept monflroufly fat upon dora, eat nothing green but the fhort roots of grafs that are to be found by the fide of the Nile, after the fun has withered it. This they dig out where it is covered with earth, and appears blanched, which they lay in fmall heaps once a- day on the ground before them. They are te- thered by the fetlock joint of the fore-leg with a very foft cotton rope made with a loop and large button. They eat and drink with the bridle in their mouth, not the bridle they actually ufe when armed, but a light one made on purpofe to ac- cuftom them to eat and drink with it : If you afk the reafon, they tell you of many battles that have been loft by the troops having been attacked by their enemy when taking off the bridles to give their horfes drink. No Arab ever mounts a ilal- lion ; on the contrary, in Nubia they never ride mares ; the reafon is plain : The Arabs are con- ftantly at war with their neighbours, (for fo rob- bery in that country is called) and always en- deavour to take their enemies by furprife in the grey of the evening, or the dawn of day. A ftal- lion no fooner fmells the ft ale of the mare in the enemy's quarters, than he begins to neigh, and that would give the alarm to the party intended
to
283' V. ;_yELS TO DISCOVER
to be furprifed. No fucli thing ever can happen when they ride mares only ; on the contrary, the Funge truft only to fuperior force. They are in ?Ai ODen, Dla'in country, muft be difcovered at ni2.ny miles diftance, ^nci all fuch furprifes and ftratacrems are ufelefa to them.
The place where we alighted is called Hajar el Dill, and is a mile eaft from w^here we halted in the wood to feed our camels* We continued along the Nile at about a mile's diftance from it, and, after advancing, near three miles, came in iirfit of a large village called Derreira ; on the cppofite fide of the Nile, and beyond that, about four. miles on the fame fide, is Deleb, a large vil- la2:e, with the ilirine of a famous faint of that name. The country here is more cultivated and pleafant than that which we had paifed ; there is a low ridge of hills in the way. At half pail fix in the evening: of the 2d of Oclober we arrived at V/ed Baal a Nagga. The village is a very large one, belonging to a Fakir, a faint of the iirft con- lideration in.tne 'government of Ghendi. All this country, except immediately upon the Nile, is defert zrA fandy. Ail along the plain we favv numbers of people digging pits, and taking out the earth, which they boil in large earthen va- fes or pans. This is the only way they pro- cure themfelves fait, of w^hich they fend great quantities to Halfaia, where is a market, and from whence it is fent to Sennaar.
On the 3d, at iive o'clock, we left Wed Baal a Nagga, and continued along the Nile, Vv^hichis
about
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 289
about a quarter of a mile off; and feven miles further to the N. E. we paiTed a tomb of the Fa- kir el Deragi, ciofe to the road on our left hand. All from Wed Baal a Nagga, on both fides of the Nile, is piclurefque and pleafant, full of verdure, and varied with houfes in diiTerent iituations till we come to the tomb of this Fakir, Immediate- ly from -this all is bare and defolate, except one verdant fpot by the iide of the river, fhaded with fine trees, and full of herbage, ind there we alighted at nine o'clock. This place is called Maia; a few trees appear on the other Iide, but beyond thefe all the country is defert. It is inhabited at prefent by the Jaheleen Arabs of Wed el Faal ; as they have had violent ihowers in the high coun- try, and their pools were ftill full of water, they ftaid by them longer than ordinary feeding their cattle. Idris V/ed el Faal, governor of Chendi, nephew to Wed Ageeb, and Ion to Sittina his lifter, to whom this country belongs, was then with them, fo we did not fear them, otherwife there is not a worfe fet of fanatical v/retches, or greater enemies to the name of Chriftian, than thefe are.
As we are here fpeaking of Arabs and their names, I iliall once for all obferve, that Wed, a word which I have frequently made ufe of in the courie of this hiftory, and which in this fenfe is peculiar to the kingdom of Sennaar, does not mean river, though that is its import in Arabic. Here it is an abbreviation of Welled, peculiar to the inhabitants of this part of Atbara, who feeni
Vol. V. U to
2go TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
to have an aversion to the letter 1 ; Wed el Faai, the fon of Faal ; Wed Hydar, the fon of Hydar, or tbe lion ; Wed HalTan, the fon of Haflan, and fo of the reft. For the fame reafon, Melek Sen- naar, the king of Sennaar, called Mek^ by throw- ing out the 1 ; Abd el Mek, the flave of the king, inftead of Abd el Melek. Here alfo I had the plea- fure to find the language of the Koran that of the whole people in common converfation ; and as this was the book in which I firft ftudied the Ara- bic, I found nov/ a propriety and facility of ex- preillon I had not been fenfible of before ; for that of the Koran, in Arabia, is a kind of dead lan- guage, rarely underftood but by men of learning. At Wed Baal a Nagga there is a ferry for thofe who go to Bongola by the defert of Bahiouda, Derreira is the landing-place on the other fide ; I fuppofe it is to avoid thefe Jaheleen that caravans ferry over at Gerri rather than come fo low as Wed Baal a Nagga. Vv^e left Maia at half paft three in the afternoon, and, after going three miles, we came to Gooz, a fmall village on our left, where we found plenty of good food for our camels. At {i:s. we alighted at Fakari. Chendi was now five miles eaft of us, where we arrived at eight o'clock in the morning of the 4th of Od- tober*
CHAP.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 291
CHAR XL
Reception at Chendi by Sittina — Converfations with her — Enter the Defert — Pillars of ?noving Sand -—The Simoom — Latitude of Chiggre.
v^HENDI, or Chandi, is a large village, the ca- pital of its diflricl, the government of which be- longs to Sittina, (as fhe is called) which fignifies the Miftrefs, or the Lady, fhe being lifter to Wed Ageeb, the principal of the Arabs in this coun- try. She had been married, but her hufband was dead. She had one fon, Idris Wed el Faal, who was to fucceed to the government of Chendi up- on his mother's death, and who, in efFed, go- verned all the affairs of his kindred already. The governor of Chendi is called in difcourfe Mek el Jaheleen, prince of the Arabs of Beni Koreilh, who are all fettled, as 1 have already faid, about the bottom of Atbara, on both fides of the Magi- ran.
• There is a tradition at Chendi, that a woman, whofe name was Hendaque, once governed all that country, whence we might imagine that
U 2 this
29S TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
this was part of the kingdom of Candace ; for writing this name in greek letters it will come to be no other than Hendaque, the native, or mif- trefs, of Chendi, or Chandi. However this may- be, Chendi was once a town of great refort. The caravans of Sennaar, Egypt, Suakem, and Kor- dofan, all were in ufe to rendezvous here, efpe- cially fmce the Arabs have cut off the road by Dongola, and the defert of Baiouda ; and though it be not now a place of great plenty, yet every thing here is at a cheaper rate, and better than at Sennaar ; we muft except the article fuel, for wood is much dearer here than in any part of At- bara ; the people all burn camels dung. Indeed, were it not for drefling victuals, fire in a place fo hot as this would be a nuifance. If was fo ful- try in the end of Augufi and beginning of Sep- tember,, that many people dropt down dead v/ith heat, both in the town and villages around it \ but it is now faid to be much cooler, though the thermometer at noon was once fo high as 1 19^.
Chendi has in it about 250 houfes, which are not all built contiguous, fome of the beft of them being feparate, and that of Sittina's is half a mile from the town. There are tw^o or three tolerable houfes, but the reft of them are miferable hovels, buik of clav and reeds. Sittina o^ave us one of thefe houfes, which I ufed for keeping my inftru- ments and baggage from being pilfered or bro- ken ; I ilept abroad in the tent, and it was even there hot enough. The women of Chendi are efteemed the moft beautiful in Atbara, and the
men
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 293
men the greateft cowards. This is the character they bear among their countrymen, but we had little opportunity of verifying either.
On our arrival at Chendi we found the people very much alarmed at a phaenomenon, which, though it often happens, by feme flrange inad- vertency had never been obferved, even in this ferene fky. The planet Venus appeared ihining with undiminiflied light all day, in defiance of the brightefl fun, from which fhe was but little diftant, Tho' this phaenomenon be viiible every four years, it filled all the people, both in town and country, with alarm. They flocked to me in crowds from all quarters to be fatisfied what it meant, and, when they faw my telefcopes and quadrant, they could not be perfuaded but that the fi:ar had become vifible by fome correfpon- dence and intelligence with me, and for my nfe. The bulk of the people in all countries is the fame ; they never foretell any thing but evil. The very regular and natural appearance of this planet was immediately converted, therefore, in- to a fign that there, would be a bad harvefi: next year, and fcanty rains ; that Abou Kalec with an army would depofe the king, and over-run all Atbara ; whilft fome threatened me as a principal operator in bringing about thefe difafi:ers. On the other hand, without feeming over-folicitous about my vindication, I infinuated among the bet- ter fort, that this was a lucky and favourable fign, a harbinger of good fortune, plenty, and peace. The clamour upon this fubfided very much to my
advantage
294 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER.
advantage, the rather, becaufe Sittina and her fon Idris knew certainly that Mahomet Abou Kalec \vas not to be in Atbara that year. . On the 1 2th of October I waited upon Sittina, who received me behind a fcreen, fo that it was impoilible either to fee her figure or face ; I ob- ferved, however, that there were apertures fo ma- naged in the fcreen that ihe had a perfect view of me. She exprelTed herfelf with great politenefs, talked much upon the terms in which Adelan was with the king, and wondered exceedingly how a white man like me fhould venture fo far in fuch an ill-governed country. " Allow me. Madam, faid 1, to complain of a breach of hofpitality in you, which no Arab has been yet guilty of tow- ards me." — " Me ! faid ihe, that would be ftrange indeed, to a man that bears my brother's letter. How can that be 1" — " Why, you tell me. Ma- dam, that I am a white man, by which I know that you fee me, without giving me the like ad- vantage. The queens of Sennaar did not ufe me fo hardly ; I had a full fight of them without ha- ving ufed any importunity." Onthis Ihe broke out into a great fit of laughter ; then fell into conver- fation about medicines to make her hair grow, or rather to hinder it from falling ofi*. She de- fired me to come to her the next day ; that her fon Idris would be then at home from the Ho- wat *, and that he very much wifhed to fee me.
She
*The farm where he kept the flocks belonging to hunfelf.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 295
She that day fent us plenty of provilions from her own table.
On the 1 3th it was fo exceffively hot that it was impoflible to fufFer the burning fun. The poifon- ous fimoom blew likewife as if it came from an oven. Our eyes were dim, our lips cracked, our knees tottering, our throats perfectly dry, and no relief was found from drinking an immoderate quantity of water. The people advifed me to dip a fpunge in vinegar and water, and hold it before my mouth and nofe^ and this greatly relieved me. In the evening I went to Sittina. Upon en- tering the houfe, a black flave laid hold of me by the hand, and placed me in a paiTage, at the end of which were two oppofite doors. I did not well know the reafon of this ; but had ilaid only a few minutes when I heard one of the doors at the end of the paffage open, and Sittina appeared magnificently dreiTed, v*dth a kind of round cap of folid gold upon the crown of her head, all beat very thin, and hung round with fequins ; with a variety of gold chains, folitaires, and necklaces of the fame metal, about her neck. Her hair was plaited in ten or twelve fmall diviiions like tails, which hung down below her waift, and over her was thrown a common cotton white garment. She had a purple lilk ftole, or fcarf^ hung very gracefully upon her back, brought again round her waiil, without covering her fhoulders or arms. Upon her wriils ilie had two bracelets like hand- cuffs, about half an inch thick, and two gold nbia- nacles of the fame at her feet, fully an inch dia-
meter«
296 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
meter, the moil difagreeable and aukward part of all her drefs. I expected fhe fhould have hur- ried through with fome affeclation of furprife. On the contrary, flie ftopt in the middle of the paf- fage, faying, in a very grave manner, " Kifha- lee,"— how are you ? I thought this was an op- portunity of killing her hand, which I did, with- out her ihowing any fort of reluctance. '• Allow me as a phyiician, faid I, Madam, to fay one word." She bowed with her head, and faid, " Go in at that door, and I will hear you." The flave appeared, and carried me through a door at the bottom of the paffage into a room, while her mif- trefs vanifhed in at another door at the top, and there was the fcreen I had feen the day before, and the lady fitting behind it.
She w^as a woman fcarcely forty, taller than the middle iize, had a very round, plump face, her mouth rather large, very red lips, the fineft teeth and eyes I have feen, but at the top of her nofe, and between her eye-brows,^ flie had a fmall fpeck made of cohol or antimony, four-cornered, and of the Iize of the fmalleil patches our women ufed to wear ; another rather longer upon the top of her nofe, and one on the middle of her chin.
Sittina, " Tell me what you w^ould fay to me as a phyiician." — Ta, " It was. Madam, but in confequence of your difcourfe yefterday. That heavy gold cap with wdiich you prefs your hair will certain'y be the caufe of a great part of it falling off." Sin, " I believe fo ; but I Ihould catch cold, I am fo accuflomed to it, if I was to
leave
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE 297
leave it off. Are you a man of name and family in your own country r" Ta. " Of both. Madam." Sitt, " Are the women handfome there ?" Ta. *' The handfomeft in the world, Madam ; but they are fo good, and fo excellent in all other ref- pecls, that nobody thinks at all of their beauty, nor do they value themfelves upon it." Sitt. " And do they allow you to kifs their hands ?" Ta. " I under ftand you, Madam, though you have mif- taken me. There is no familiarity in kiffing hands, it is a mark of homage, and diftant refpecl paid in my country to our fovereigns, and to none earthly befides." Sitt. '' O yes ! but the kings." Ta. " Yes, and the queens, too, alv/ays on the knee. Madam ; I faid our fovereigns, meaning both king and queen. On her part it is a mark of gracious condefceniion, in favour of rank, merit, and honourable behaviour ; it is a reward for dan- gerous and difficult fervices, above all other com- penfation." Sitt, ^' But do you know that no man ever kiffed my hand but you r" 7^a. " It is impoffible I fhould know that, nor is it material. Of this I am confident, it was meant refpeclfully, cannot hurt you, and ought not to offend you.", Sitt, " It certainly has done neither, but I wiih very much Idris m.y fon would com.e and fee you, as it is on his account I dreffed mvfeif to-dav." Ta, " I hope. Madam, when I do fee him he will think of fome v/ay of forwarding me fafely to Barbar, in my way to Egypt." Sitt, " Safely ! God forgive you ! you are throwing yourfelf away wantonly. Idris himfelf, king of this coun- try,
298 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
try, dares not undertake fuch a journey. But why did not you go along with Mahomet To- wafh ? He fet out only a few days ago for Cairo, the fame way you are going, and has, I believe, taken all the Hy beers with him. Go call the por- ter," fays Ihe to her Have. When the porter came, " Do you know if Mahomet Towafh is gone to Egypt ?*' " 1 know he is gone to Barbar, fays the porter, the two Mahomets, and Abd el Jelleel, the Bifhareen, are with him.." " Why did he take all the Hybeers ?" fays Sittina. " The men were tired and difcouraged, anfwered the porter, by their late iil-ufage from the Cubba- beefh, and, being ilripped of every thing, they wanted to be at home." Sift, " Somebody elfe will offer, but you niuft not go without a gdod man \a ith you ; I will not fuffer you. Thefe Bifha- reen are people known here, and maybe trufted; but while you flay let me fee you every day, and if you want any thing, fend by a fervarjt of mine. It is a tax, I know, improperly laid upon a man like you, to ail?, for every neceiiary, but Idris will be here, and he will provide you better." I went away upon this converfation, and foon found, that Mahomet Tov/alh had fo well followed the direction of the Mek of Sennaar, as to take all the Hybeers of note with him on purpofe to difappoint me.
This being the firfl time I have had occafion to mention this ufefuifet of men, it will be necelTary I ihould here explain their ofSce and occupation. A Hybeer is a guide, from the Arabic word Hub- bar,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 299
bar, to inform, inftruci:, or direct, becaufe they are ufed to do this office to the caravans travelling through the defert in all its direc1:ions, whether to Egypt and back again, the coafl of the Red Sea, or the countries of Sudan, and the weftern extremities of Africa. They are men of great confideration, knowing perfeclly the fituation and properties of all kinds of water to be met on the route, the diilance of wells, whether occupied by enemies or not, and, if fo, the way to avoid them with the leaft inconvenience. It is alfo ne- ceiTary to them to know the places occupied by the limoom, and the feafons of their blowing in thofe parts of the defert, likewife thofe occupied by moving fands. He generally belongs to fome pow erful tribe of Arabs inhabiting thefe deferts, whofe protection he makes ufe of to affifthis cara- vans, or protect them in time of danger, and handfome rewards were always in his power to diftribute on fuch occafions ; but now that the Arabs in thefe deferts are everywhere without government, the trade betw^een Abyffinia and Cairo given over, that between Sudan and that metropolis much diminiihed, the im.portance of that office of Hybeer, and its confideration, is fal- len in uroDortion. and with thefe the fafe con- dud: ; and we iliall fee prefently a caravan cut off by the treachery of the very Hybeers that con- dude^i them, the firft inftance of the kind that ever haoDcned.
A i.
One day, fitting in my tent muiing upon the very unpromiling afped of my affairs, an Arab of
very .
300 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
very ordinary appearance, naked, with only a cOLton cloth around his middle, came up to me, and offered to condu6l me to Barbar and thence to Egypt. He faid his houfe was at Daroo on the fide of the Nik, about twenty miles beyond Syene, or Affouan, nearer Cairo. I alked him why he had not gone with Mahomet Towafti ? He faid, he did not like the company, and was very much miftaken if their journey ended well. Upon pref- iing him further if this was really the only rea- fon ; he then told me, that he had been lick for fome months at Chendi, contracted debt, and had been obliged to pawn his cloaths, and that his ca- mel was detained for what ftill remained unpaid. After much converfation, repeated feveral days, i found that Idris (^for that was his name) was a man of fome fubftance in his own country, and had a daughter married to the Schourbatchie at Aifoua-n. He faid that this was his laft journey, for he never would crofs the defert again. A bar- gain was now foon made. I redeemed his camel and cloak; he was to fhew me the way to Egypt, and he was there to be recompenfed, according to his behaviour.
Chendi, by repeated obfervations of the fun and ftars, made for feveral fucceeding days and nights, I found to be in lat. 16° 38' 35" north, and at the fame place, the 1 3th of Odober^ 1 ob- ferved an immerfion of the firft fatellite of Jupi- ter, from which 1 concluded its longitude |:o be 33^^ 24 45" eail; of the meridian ofGreenwich. The hio-heft deo;ree of the thermometer of Fahren-
hcit
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. . 301
heit in the fhade was, on the icth of Oclober, at one o'clock P. M. 119", wind north ; the loweft was on the iith, at midnight, 87°, wind weft, after a fmall fhower of rain.
I prepared now to leave Chendi, but firft re- turned my benefaclrefs Sittina thanks for all her favours. She had called for Idris, and given him very pofitive inftruclions, mixt with threats, if he mifbehaved ; and hearing what I had done for him, Ihe too gave him an ounce of gold, and faid at parting, that for knowledge of the road through the defert, fhe believed Idris to be as perfect as any body ; but in cafe we met with the Bifha- reen, they would neither faew to him nor to me any mercy. She gave me, however, a letter to Mahomet Abou Bertran, Shekh of one of the tribes of Biihareen, on the Tacazze, near the Magiran, which Ihe had made her fon write from the Howat, it not being ufual, fhe faid, for her to write herfelf. 1 begged I might be again allow- ed to teftify my gratitude by kifling her hand, which flie condefcended to in the moil gracious manner, laughing all the time, and faying, " Well, you are an odd man 1 if Idris my fon faw me juft now, he would think me mad."
On the 20th of October, in the evening, we left Chendi, and refted two miles from the tov/n, and about a mile from the river ; and next day, the 2ift, at three quarters pafi four in the morn- ing we continued our journey, and palTed through five or fix villages of the Jaheleen on our left ; at nine we alighted to feed our camxls under fome
trees.
302 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
trees, having gone about ten miles. At this place begins a large ifland in the Nile feveral miles long, full of villages, trees, and corn, it is called Kur- gos. Oppolite to this is the mountain Gibbainy, where is the firft fcene of ruins I have met with lince that of Axum in Abyilinia. We faw here heaps of broken pedeftals, like thofeof Axum, all plainly defigned for the ftatues of the dog-; fome pieces of obelilk, likewife, with hieroglyphics, al- moft totally obliterated. The Arabs told us thefe ruins were very extenftve ; and that many pieces of itatues, both of men and animals, had been dug up there; the itatues of the men were moftly of black ftone. It is impoilible to avoid rifquing a guefs that this is the ancient city of Meroe, whofe latitude fhould be lo^ 26'; and I appre- hend further, that in this ifland was the obferva- tory of that famous cradle of aftronoray. The Ethiopians cannot pronounce P ; there is, indeed, no fuch letter in their alphabet. Curgos, then, the name of the ifland, Ihould probably be Pur- gos, the tower or obfervatory of that city.
There are four rem.arkable rivers mentioned bv the ancients as contributing: to form the ifland of Meroe. The firft is the Aflufafpes, or the river Ma- reb, fo called from hiding itfelf under ground in the fand, and a^rain emeri^ina: in the time of rain, and running to join the Tacazze.
The next is the Tacazze, as 1 have faid, the Si- ris of the ancients, by the natives called Aftabo- ras, which forms, as Pliny has faid, the left chan- nel
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 303
nel of Atbara, or, as the Greeks have called it, the ifland of Meroe.
On the weft, or right hand, is another conii- derable river, called by the name of the White River, and by the ancients Aftapus, and which Diodorus Siculus fays comes from large lakes to the fouthward, which we know to be truth. This river throws itfelf into the Nile, and toge- ther with it makes the right-hand channel, inclo- fmg Meroe or Atbara. The Nile here is called the Blue River ; and Nil, in the language of the country, has precifely that fignification. This too was known to the ancients, as the Greeks have called it the Blue River, and thefe being all found to inclofe Meroe, neither Gojam, nor any place that is not fo limited, can ever be taken for that ifland.
I will not pretend to fay that any poiitive proof fhould be founded upon the aftronomical obfer- vations of the ancients, unlefs there are circum- ftances that go hand in hand with, and corrobo- rate them ; but we fhould be at a very great lofs indeed, notwithftanding all the diligence of mo- dern travellers, were we to throw the celeilial obfervations of the ancients entitely behind us. We have, from various concurring* circumftances, fixed our Meroe at Gerri, or between that town and Wed Baal a Nagga, that is about lat. 16" 10" north ; and Ptolemy, from an obfervation of the Solftice, fixes it at 16^ 26', fo that the error here, if any, feems to be of no confequence, as the direction of the city might extend to the
northward.
304 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
northward. The obfcrvations mentioned by Pli- ny are not fo accurate, nor do they merit to be put in competition with thofe of Ptolemy, for ve- ry obvious reafons ; yet flill, when ftriclly ex- amined, they do not fail, inaccurate as they are, to throw fome light upon this fubjecl. He fays the fun is vertical at Meroe twice a year, once when he enters the 18^ of Taurus, and again when he is in the 14 degree of the Lion.
Here are three impoflibilities, which plainly iliew that this error is not that of Pliny, but of an ignorant tranfcriber ; for if the zenith of Me- roe anfwered to the i8th degree of Taurus, it is impofiible that the fame point fhould anfwer to the 14th degree of the Lion ; and if Syene was 5000 iladia from the one, it is impoilible it could be no more from the other which was fouth of it, if they were ail three under the fame meridian ; let us then confefs, as we muft, that both thefe obfer- vations are erroneous.
But let us fuppofe that the firft will m.ake the latitude of Meroe to be 17^ id and the fecond 16^ 40' ; taking then a medium of thefe two bad obfervations, as is the practice in all fuch cafes, we fiiall find the latitude of Meroe to be 16*^ 30', only 4' difference from the obfervation of Ptole- v
my.
Voius *, among a multitude of errors he has committed relating to the Nile, denies that there are any iHands in that river. The reader will be
long
*De. orig. flurn. cap. xvl. p. 57,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 305
long ago fatisfied from our hiftory, this that is without foundation, feeing that from the iiland of Rhoda, where ftands the Mikeas, to the ifland of Curgos, which we have juil now mention- ed, we have defcribed feveral. He would in- deed infinuate, that Meroe, or Atbara, is not an ifland, but a peninfuia, though it is well known in hiftory thefe words are conftantly ufed as fyno- nimous ; but were it not fo, Meroe fcarcely ilands in need of this excufe. If the reader will call his eye upon the map, he will fee two rivers, the Ra- had and Tocoor, that almoil meet in lat. 12^ 40' north. Acrofs the peninfuia, left by thefe rivers, is a fmall ftripe called Falaty, running in a con- trary direction from the general courfe of rivers in this country, that is from eaft to w^ft, though part of it in dry weather is hid in the fand, and this makes Atbara a complete ifland in time of rain.
Simonides the Lefs fcaid five years in Meroe ; after him, Ariflocreon, Bion, and Bafilis f. It is not then probable that men of their character omitted to afcertain the fact whether or not the place where they lived v/as an ifland. Diodorus Siculus has faid, that Meroe was in the form of a fliield, that is, in the figure of that triangular fhield called Scutum., pointed at the bottom, and growing broader towards the top where it is fquare. Nothing can be more exad: than this re- femblance of the lower part of Atbara, that is.
Vol. V, X from
-{■ Plin. lib. vi. c. 30.
3o6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
from Gerri to the Magiran, the part Xve fuppofe Diodorus was acquainted with, and it is fcarcely pollible that he could have fixed upon this refem- blance without having feen fome figure of it deli- neated upon paper.
As this mull: fuppofe a more than ordinary knowledge in Diodorus, we fliall examine how the meafures he has given us of the ifland cor- 3'efpond with the truth. He fays, that the ifland is 'xooo fladia lone, and looo fladia broad. Now taking 8 fladia for a mile, we have ;^y^ miles, and meafuring with the compafs from the river Fala- ty, where, as I have faid, Atbara becomes an ifland by the confluence of the rivers, I find that diilance to be 345 miles, of 60 miles to a degree, fo that without making any allowance for the dif- advantages of the country, it is impoflible at this day to have a more accurate eftimation. As for the breadth, it is fcarcely poffible to guefs at what part Diodorus means it was meafured, on account of the figure of the ihield, as 1 have already ob- ferved, as conflantly varying. But fuppofe, as is mofl: probable, that the breadth of the ifland was referred to the place where the city flood ,then, in place of 125 miles, the produce of 1000 ftadia, I find it meafures 145 miles, a difference as little to be regarded as the other.
Let us now examine what information we can learn from the report of the centurions fent on purpofe by Nero to explore this unknown coun- try, whofe report has been looked upon as deci-
five
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 307
five of the diflances of places through which they pafled.
. Thefe travellers pretend, that between Syene and the entrance into the ifland of Meroe was 873 miles, and from thence to the city 70 miles ; the whole diftance then between Syene and the city of Meroe will be 943 miles, or 15° 43', Now Syene was very certainly in 24'', a few mi- nutes more or lefs ; and from this if we take 15®, there will remain 9" of latitude for the ifland of Meroe, according to the report of thefe centuri- ons, and this would have carried Meroe far to the fouthward of the fountains of the Nile, and con- founded every ide?w of the geography of Africa. The parallel which marks 11^ cuts Gojam very exactly in the middle, and this peninfula may be faid to refemble the fhield called Pelta ; but very certainly not the Scutum, to which Diodorus has very properly likened it. Befides, their own ob- fervation condemns them, for it is about Meroe where they firft favv' an appearance of verdure ; the reafon of which is very plain, if the latitude of that city was in 16^, upon the verge of the tropical rains, where, as an eye-witnefs, I who have paffed that dreary diilance on foot can teili- fy, thofe green herbs and flirubs, though they begin, as is very properly and cautioufly exprefs- ed, to appear there, feem neither luxuriant nor abundant.
But had the centurions gone to Gojam, they would have pafTed a hundred miles of a more ver- dant and more beautiful country before arriving
X 2 there
3o8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
there. The pfittaci aves, or the paroquets, whicb they very properly obferved were firft feen in Me- roe, that is, in Atbara, would have been fought for in vain in Gojam, a cold country; whereas the paroquet's delight is in the low, or hot coun- try, where there is always variety of fruit ; nei- ther could Ptolemy's obfervation, nor thofe two juil mentioned by Pliny, be admitted, after any fort of modification whatever.
Strabo remarks of the iituation of Meroe, that it was placed upon the verge of the tropical rains ; and, with his ufual accuracy and good fenfe, he wonders the regularity of thefe tropical rains, as to their coming and duration, was not known earlier, when fo many occalions had offered to ob- ferve them at Meroe before his time. The fame author fays, that the fun is vertical at Meroe for- ty-five days before the fummer folftice ; fo that this too will place that ifland in lat. i6^ 44', ve- ry little different from the latitude that Ptolemy gives it. From all which circumftances we may venture to maintain, that very few places in anci- ent geography have their iituations more flriclly defined, or by a greater variety of circumftances, than the ifland of Atbara or Meroe. But fuppo- iing the cafe were otherwife, there is not one of thefe cir^cumftances that I know of, that could be adduced with any effect to prove Gojam to be Meroe, as Le Grande and the Jefuits have vainly afferted.
At half pafl eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 2ift of October, having fpent the whole day
in
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 309
in winding through vallies, and the bare hills of the Acaba, we alighted in a wood about a mile from the river. This iide of the Nile, along which we travelled to-day, is quite bare, the other full of trees and corn, where are feveral large villages.
On the 2 2d, in the afternoon, we left this place, which is called Hor-Gibbaity, and paifed through feveral villasfes of the Macabrab, named Dow- Dowa, and three miles further came to Demar, a town belonging to Fakir Wed Madge Doub, who is a faint of the firft confequence among the Jaheleen. They believe that he works miracles, and can flrike whom he pleafes with lamenefs, blindnefs, or madnefs ; for which reafon they iland very much in awe of him, fo that he paffes the caravans in fafety through this neft of rob- bers, fucii as the Macabrab are, and always have been, though there are caravans who chufe rather to pafs unfeen under the cloud of night, than truft to the veneration thefe Jaheleen may have of Wed Madge Doub's fanciity. After thefe are Eliab, their habitation four miles on our left at Howiah.
On the 25th, at three quarters paft fix in the morning we left Demar, and at nine came to the Tacazze, five fiiort miles diftant from Demar, and tv»70 fmaii villages built with canes and plaiftered with clay, called Dubba-beah ; thefe are allies of the Macabrab, as coming from Demar. They took it in their heads to believe that we were a caravan going to Mecca, in which they were con^
firmed
310 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
firmed by a fon of Wed Madge Doub, whom I brought with me, and it w as neither my buiinefs nor inclination to undeceive them, but juft the contrary.
The Tacazze is here about a quarter of a rnile broad, exceedingly deep, and they have chofen the deeped part for^the ferry. It is clear as in Abvffinia, where w^e had often feen it. It rifes in the province of Angot, in about lat. 9^, but has loll ail the beauty of its banks, and runs here thro' a defert and barren country. I reflecled with much fatisfaclion upon the many circum- ftances the fight of this river recalled to my mind ; but ftili the greateft was, that the fcenes of thefe were now far diftant, and that I was by fo much the more advanced towards home. The v/ater of the Tacazze is judged by the Arabs to be lighter, clearer, and wholefomer than that of the Nile. About half a mile after this ferry it joins with that river. Though the boats were fmaller, the people more brutiih, and lefs expert than thofe at Halifoon, yet the fuppofed fandity of our cha- racters, and liberal payment, carried us over with- out any difficulty. Thefe fons of Mahomet are very robuft and ftrong, and, in all their operati- ons, feemed to truft to that rather than to addrefs or flight. We left the paffage at a quarter after three, and at half pad four arrived at a gravelly, wafte piece of ground, and all round it planted thick with large trees without fruit. The river is the boundary between Atbara and Barbar, in
wh
'nch
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 311
j which province we now are. Its inhabitants are the Jaheleen of the tribe of Mirifab.
On the 26th, at iix o'clock, leaving the Nile on our left about a mile, we continued our jour- ney over gravel and fand, through a wood of aca- cia-trees, the colour of whofe flowers was now changed to white, whereas all the reft we had be-, fore feen were yellow. At one o'clock we left the wood, and at 40 minutes pail three we came to Gooz, a fmall village, which neverthelefs is the capital of Barbar. The village of Gooz is a col- lection of miferable hovels compofed of clay and canes. There are not in it above 30 houfes, but there are fix or feven different villages. The heat feemed here a little abated, but every body com- plained of a difeafe in their eyes they call Tifhafli, which often terminates in blindnefs. I apprehend it to be owing to the iimoom and fine fand blow- ing through the defert. Here a misfortune hap- pened to Idris our Hybeer, who was arretted for debt, and carried to prifon. As we were now up- on the very edge of the defert, and to fee no other inhabited place till we fliould reach Egypt, I was not difpleafed to have it in my power to lay him under one other obligation before we trufted our lives in his hands, which we were immediate- ly to do. I therefore paid his debt, and recon- ciled him with his creditors, who, on their part, behaved very moderately to him.
When trade flourifhed here, and the caravans went regularly, Gooz was of fome conlideration, as being the firll place w^here they ftopped, and
therefore
312 TRA.VELS TO DISCOVER
therefore scot the firft offer of the market ; but now no commerce remains, nor is it worth while for ftated guides to wait there to conduct the Ca- ravans thjough the defert, as they did formerly. Gooz is fituated fifteen miles from the jundion of the two rivers, the Nile and Tacazze. By many obfervations of the fun and flars, and by a mean of thefe, I found it to be in lat. 17'^ ^^j' 22" ; and by an immerfion of the firft fatellite of Jupiter ob- ferved there the 5th of November, determined its lon2:itude to be ^4° 20 ^o" eaft of the meridian of Greenwich. The greateH height of Fahren- heit's thermometer was, at Gooz, the 28th day of Oclober, at noon, 1 1 1^.
Having received all the alTarances poilible from Idris that he Vv^ould live and die with us, after ha- ■ving repeated the prayer of peace, we put on the beft countenance poilible, and committed our- felves to the defert. There were Ifmaei the Turk, two Greek fervants beiides Georgis, who was almoft blind and ufelefs. Two barbarians, who took care of the camels, Idris, and a young man, a relation of his, who joined him at Barbar, to return home ; in all nine pcrfons, eight only of whom were effeclive. We were all well-arm- ed with blunderbuifes, fwords, piftols, and dou- ble-barrelled guns, except Idris and his lad. who had lances, the only arms they could ufe. Five or fix naked wretches of the Tucorory joined us at the watering place, much againft my will, for I knew that we fhould probably be reduced to the difagreeable neceility of feeing them die with
third
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 313
thirft before our eyes ; or by afilfting them, ihould any accident happen to our water, we ran a very great rilk of periihing with them.
It was on the 9th of November, at noon^ we left Gooz, and fet out for the fakia, or watering- place, which is below a little village called Haifa. All the weft fide of the Nile is full of villages down to Takaki, but they are all Jaheleen, with- out government, and perpetually in rebellion. At half paft three in the afternoon we came to the Nile to lay in our (lore of water. We filled four ikins, which misrht contain altOQ-ether about a hogfliead and a half. As for our food, it confided in twenty-two large goats fkins ftuffed with a pow- der of bread made of dora here at Gooz, on pur- pofe for fuch e^^peditlons. It is about the fize and lliape of a pancake, but thinner. Being much dri- ed, rather than toafted at the fiXe, it is afterwards rubbed between the hands into a duft or powder, for the fake of package ; and the goat's ikin cram- med as full as poffible, and tied at the mouth with a leather thono:. This bread has a fouriili tafte, which it imparts to the w^ater v/hen mingled with it, and fwells to fix times theipace that it occupi- ed when dry. A handful, as much as you could grafp, put into a bowl made of a gourd fawed in two, about twice the contents of a commion tea- bafon, was the quantity allowed to each man eve- ry day, morning and evening ; and another fuch gourd of water divided, one half two hours be- fore noon, the other about an hour after. Such were the regulations we all of us fubicribed to;
we
314 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
we had not camels for a greater proviiion. The Nile at Haffa runs at the foot of a mountain called Jibbel Ateihan, or the Mountain of Thirji-, the men, emphatically enough confidering that thofe who part from it, entering the defert, take there the firft provifions againft thirft, and there thofe that come to it from the defert firft aifuage theirs.
On the nth, about eleven o'clock in the fore- noon we left Haifa. It required a whole day to fill our Ikins, and foak them well in the water, in order to make an experiment, which was of the greateft confequence of any one we ever made, whether thefe fkins were water-tight or not. I had taken the greateft care while at Chendi to dawb them well over with greafe and tar, to fe- cure their pores on the outiide ; but Idris told us this was not enough, and that foaking the infide Vvdth water, filling them choak-full, and tying their mouths as hard as poiTible, was the only way to be certain if they were water-tight without.
While' the camels were loading, I bathed my- felf with infinite pleafure for a long half hour in the Nile, and thus took leave of my old acquaint- ance, very doubtful if we ftiould ever meet again. We then turned our face to N. E» leaving the Nile, and entering into a bare defert of fixed gravely without trees, and of a very difagreeable whitifli colour, mixed with fmali pieces of white marble, and pebbles like alabafter. At a quarter paft four we ahghted in a fpot of high bent grafs. where we let our camels feed' till tight o'clock, and at three quarters paft ten we halted for the night in ano- ther
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 315
ther patch of grafs ; the place is called Howeela. Jibbel Ateflian bore S. W. and by W. of us, the diftance about feven miles. I inquired of Idris, if he knew, to point out to me, precifely where Syene lay, and he iliewed me without difficulty. I fet it by the compafs, and found it to be N. and by W. very near t\\Q exacl bearing it turned out upon obfervation afterwards. He faid, how- ever, we ihould not keep this trad, but ihould be obliged to vary occahonally in fearch of water, as we ihould find the wells in the defert empty or full.
On the 1 2th, at feven o'clock in the morning we quitted Howeela, continuing our journey through the defert in the fame direction, that is to the N. E ; our reafon was, to avoid as much as poffible the meeting any Arab that could give in-, telligence of our being on our journey, for no- thing was fo eafy as for people, fuch as the Biiha- reen, to way-lay and cut us off at the well, where they would-be fure we muft of neceffity pafs. At twenty minutes paft eight we came to Waadi cl Haimer, where there are a few trees and fome bent grafs, for this is the meaning of the word Waadi in a defert. The Arabs, called Sum^gar, are here on the weft of us, by the river fide. At half paft twelve we alighted on a fpot of grafs. Takaki from this diftance will be twenty-four miles, between the points N. W. and N. N. W. and from Takaki to Dongola ten fhort days jour- neys, I fuppofe 180 miles at moft. We are now in the territory of the Bifhareen, but they were
all
31 6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
all retired to the mountains, a high even ridge, that is fomething above tvi^o days diftance from us, and runs parallel to our courfe, on the right hand of us, all the way into Egypt.
At half pall eight we alighted in a fandy plain without trees or grafs. Our camels, we found, were too heavily loaded, but we comforted our- felves that this fault would be mended every day by the ufe we made of our proviiions ; however, it was very much againft them that they were obliged to pafs this whole night without eating. This place is called Umboia. We left Umboia? ilill ftretching farther into the defert at N. E. At nine we faw a hill called Affero-baybe, with two pointed tops N. of us, which may be about twelve or fourteen miles diilant, perhaps more. This is the next Hy beer's mark, by which he directs his courfe. On the eaft is Ebenaat, another fharp- pointed rock, about ten miles diftant. All this day, and the evening before, our road has been through -ftony, gravelly ground, without herb or tree. Large pieces of agate and jafper, mixt with many beautiful pieces of marble, appear every- where on the ground.
At two o'clock in the afternoon we came to Waadi Am>our, vvhere we alighted, after we had gone fix hours this day with great diligence.
Waadi Amour has a few trees and fiirubs, but fcarce enough to afford any fliade, or night's pro-- viiion for our camels.' Being now without fear of the Arabs who live upon the Nile, from whicli v/e were at a fujlficient diftance, we with the fame view to fafety, declined approaching the moun- tains.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 317
tains, but held our courfe nearly N. to a fmall fpot of grafs and white fand, called AfTa-Nagga. Here our misfortunes began, from a circumftance we had not attended to. Our ihoes that had needed conftant repair, were become at iaft ab- folutely ufelefs, and the hard ground, from the time we palTed Amour, had worn the Ikin off in leveral places, fo that our feet were very much inflamed by the burning fand.
About a mile north-weft of us is Hambily, a rock not confiderable in iize, but, from the plain country in which it is iituated, has the appear- ance of a great tower or caftle, and fouth of it two hillocks or little hills. Thefe are all land- marks of the utmoft confequence to caravans in their journey, becaufe they are too confiderable in iize to be covered at any time by the moving fands. At Affa Nagga, Afliro-baybe is fquare with us, and with the turn which the Nile takes eaft- ward to Korti and Dongola. The Takaki are the people neareft us, weft of AfTa Nagga, and AHe- ro-bay be upon the Nile. After thefe, Vv'hen the Nile has turned E. and W. are the Chaide, on both fides of the river, on to Korti, where the territory called the kingdom of Dongola begins. As the Nile no longer remains on our left, but m.akes a remarkable turn, which has been much mifreprefented in the maps, I put my quadrant in order, and by a medium of three obfervations, one of Procyon, one of Rigel, and one of the middle ftar of the belt of Orion, I found the lati- tude of AfTa Nagga to be 19^ 30', v/liich being on a parallel with the fartheft point of the Nile
northward,'
3i8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
northward, gives the latitude of that place where the river turns wed by Korti towards Dongola, and this, was of great fer vice to me in fixing fome other material points in my way.
On the i4th5 at feven in the morning we left Afia Nagga, our courfe being due north. At one o'clock we alighted among fome acacia trees at Waadi el Haiboub, having gone twenty-one miles. We were here at once furprifed and terrified by a fight iurely one of the mofi: magnificent in the world. In that vaft expanfe of defert, from W. and to N. W. of us, we faw a number of prodi- gious pillars of fand at different difiiances, at times moving with great celerity, at others fi:alking on v/ith a majeftic ilownefs ; at intervals we thought they were coming in a very few minutes to over- whelm us ; and fmall quantities of fand did actu- ally more than once reach us. i^gain they w^ouid retreat fo as to be almofi: out of fight, their tops reaching to the very clouds. There the tops of- ten feparated from the bodies ; and thefe, once disjoined, difperfed in the air, and did not appear more. Sometimes they were broken near the middle, as if ftruck with a large cannon fliot. About noon they began to advance with confide- rable fwiftnefs upon us, the wind being very fi:rong at north. Eleven of them ranged along- fide of us about the difi:ance of three miles. The greateft diameter of the largefi: appeared to me at that difi:ance as if it would meafure ten feet. They retired from us with a wind at S. E. lea- ving an imprefiion upon my mind to which I can
give
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 319
give no name, thxough furely one ingredient in it was fear, with a coniiderable deal of wonder and aftonifhment. It was in vain to think of flying ; the fwifteft horfe, or fafleft failing fhip, could be of no ufe to carry us out of this- danger, and the full perfuaiion of this rivetted me as if to the fpot where I flood, and let the camels gain on me fo much in my ftate of lamenefs, that it was with fome difficulty I could overtake them.
The effect this ftupendous fight had upon Idris was to fet him to his prayers, indeed rather t^ his charms ; for, befides the name of God and Ma- homet, all the refl of the words were mere gibbe- rifh and nonfenfe. This created a violent alter- cation between him and Ifmael the Turk, who abufed him for not praying in the words of the Koran, maintaining, with apparent great wifdom at the fame time, that nobodv had charms to floD thefe moving fands but the inhabitants of Arabia Deferta.
The Arabs to whom this inhofpitable fpot be- longs are the Adelaia. They, too, are Jaheleen, or Arabs of Beni Koreifh. They are faid to be a harmlefs race, and to do no hurt to the caravans they micet ; yet I very much doubt, had we fallen in with them they would not have deferved the good name that was given them. We went very flowly to-day, our feet being fore and greatly fwel- led. The whole of our company were much dif- heartened, (except Idris) and imagined that they were advancing into whirhv/inds of moving fand, from which they Ihould never be able to extricate
themfelves ;
320 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
themfelves ; but before four o'clock in the after- noon thefe phantoms of the plain had all of them fallen to the ground and difappeared. In the even- ing we came to Waadi Dimokea, where we paffed the niglit, much diflieartenedj and our fear more increafed, when v/e found, upon wakening in the morning, that one fide was perfectly buried in the fand that the wind had blown above us in the night.
"Fi*om this day, fubordination, though not en- tirely ceafed, Was fail: on the decline ; all was dif- content, murmuring, and fear. Our water was greatly diminifhed, and that terrible death by third beean to ilare us in the face, and this was owing in a great meafure to our own imprudence. Ifmael, who had been left centinel over the Ikins of water, had ilept fo foundly, that this had given an opportunity to a Tucorory to open one of the ikins that had not been touched, and ferve himfelf out of it at his own difcretion. I fuppofe that, hearing fomebody ftir, and fearing detecti- on, he had withdrawn himfelf as fpeedily as pof- fible, without taking time to tie the mouth of the girba, which we found in the morning with fcarce a quart of water in it.
On the 15th, at a quarter paft feven in the morning wt left Waadi Dimokea, keeping a lit- tle to the weilward of north, as far as I could judge, juft upon the line of Syene. The fame ridge of hills being on our right and left as yef- terday, in the center of thefe appeared Del Aned.
At
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE 321
At twenty minutes paft two o'clock in the af- ternoon we came to an opening in the ridge of rocks ; the paiiage is about a mile broad, through which we continued till we alighted at the foot of the mountain Del Aned. The place is called Waadi Del Aned.
The fame appearance of moving pillars of fand prefented themfelves to us this day in form and difpolition like thofe we had feen at Waadi Hal- boub, only they feemed to be more in numiber, and lefs in iize. They came feveral times in a di- rection clofe upon us ; that is, I believe, within lefs than two miles. They began, immediately after fun-rife, like a thick wood, and almoft dar- kened the fun : His rays fliining through them for n-ear an hour, gave them an appearance of pil- lars of fire. Our people now became defperate : The Greeks fhrieked out, and faid it was the day of judgment. Ifmael pronounced it to be hell, and the Tucorories, that the world was on fire. I aiked Idris if ever he had before feen fuch a fight ? He faid he had often feen them as terrible, though never worfe ; but what he feared m.ofi: was that extreme rednefs in the air, w^hich w^as a fure prefage of the coming of the fimoom. I begged and entreated Idris that he would not fay one word of that in the hearing of the people, for they had already felt it at Imhanzara in their way from Ras el Feel to Teawa, and again at the Aca- ba of Gerri, before we came to Chendi, and they were already nearly difcracled at the apprehenfion of finding it here.
Vol. V. Y At
322 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
At half pail four o'clock in the afternoon we left Waudi ©el Aned, pur courfc a little more to the weftvvard than the direciioa of Syene. The fands v/hich had difappeared yefterday fcarcely Ihewed themfelves at, all this day,. and^ at a great^ diilance from the horizon- This was,, however, a comfort but of ihort duration. I obferved Idris took no part in it, but only warned me and the fervants, that, upon the coming of the fimoom, we fhould fall upon our faces, with our mouths upon the, earth, fo as not to partake of the out- ward air as long as we could hold our breath. We alighted at fix o'clock at a fmall rock in the fandy ground, without trees or herbage, fo that GUT camels failed all that night. This place is cal- led Ras el Seali, or, by the Bifhareen, El Mout, which iignifies death, a name of bad omen.
On the 1 6th5 at half paft ten in the forenoon we left El Mout, Handing in the direction elofe upon Syene. Our men, if not gay, were how- ever in better fpirits than I had feen them fmce we left Gooz. One of our Barbarins had even attempted a fong ; but Hagi Ifmael very gravely reproved him, by telling him, that finging in fuch a iituatlon v/as a tempting of Providence. There is, indeed, nothing more different than active and pailive courage. Hagi Ifmael would fight, but he had not flrength of mind to fuffer. At eleven o'clock, while we contemplated with great plea- fure the rugged top of Chiggre, to which we Mere faft approaching, and where we were to fo- . lace ourfelves with plenty of good water, Idris
cried
^THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 323
cried out, with a loud voice. Fall upon your fa-. ces, for here is the fimoom. I faw from the S. K a haze come, in colour like the purple part of the rainbow, but not fo comprelTed or thick. It did not occupy twenty yards in breadth, and was about twelve feet high from the ground. It was a kind of blufh upon the air, and it moved very rapidly, for I fcarce could turn to fall upon the ground with my head to the northward, when I felt the heat of its current plainly upon my face. We all lay flat on the ground, as if dead, till Idris told us it was blown over. The meteor, or pur=- pie haze, which I faw, was indeed paiTed, but the light air that ftill blew was of heat to threaten fuf- focation. For my part, I found diftinclly in my bread: that I had imbibed a part of it, nor was I free of an aflhmatic fenfation till I had been fome months in Italy, at the baths of Poretta, near tv/o years afterwards.
An univerfal defpondency had taken poiTeiiion of our people. They ceafed to fpeak to one ano- ther, and when they did, it was in whifpers, by which I ealiiy gueffed their difcourfe was not fa- vourable to me, or elfe that they were increaiing each others fears, by vain fuggeftions calculated to link each others fpirits frill further, but from which no earthly good could poffibly refult. I called them together, and both reprimanded and exhorted them in the ftrongef^ manner I could^ I bade them attend to me, who had nearly iofb my voice by the iimoom, and defired them to look at my face, fo fv/eiled as fcarcely to penrJt
Y 2 me
524 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
. me to fee ; my neck covered with bliflers, my feet fwelled and inflamed, and bleeding with ma- ny wounds. In anfwer to the lamentation that the water was exhaufted, and that we were upon the point of dying with thirft, I ordered each man a gourd full of water more than he had the pre- ceding day, and fhewed them, at no great dif- tance, the bare, black, and fliarp point of the rock Chiggre, wherein was the well at which we were again to fill our girbas, and thereby banifti the fear of dying by thirft in the defert. I believe I never was at any time more eloquent, and never had eloquence a more fudden efre(5l. They all pro- tefted and declared their concern chiefly arofe from the lituation they faw me in, that they fear- ed not death or hardihip, provided I would fub-
' mit a little to their direction in the taking a pro- per care of myfelf. They intreated me to ufe one of the camels, and throw off the load that it car- ried, that it v/ould eafe me of the wounds in my
♦ feet, by riding at leaft part of the day. This I po- fitively refufed to do, but recommended them to be ilrong of heart, and to fpare the camels for the laft refource, if any fhould be taken ill and un- able to walk any long-er.
This phoenomenon of the fimoom, unexpected by us, though forefeen by Idris, caufed us all to relapfe into our former deipondency. It flill con- tinued to blow, fo as to exhaufl us entirely, though the blaft was fo weak as fcarcely would ..have r^^ifed a leaf from the ground. At twenty minutes before five the linioom ceafed, and a
comfortable
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 325
comfortable and cooling breeze came by flarts from the north, blowing five or fix minutes at a time, and then falling calm. We were now come to the Acaba, the aicent before we arrived at Chiggre, where we intended to have ftopt that night, but we all moved on with tacit confent, nor did one perfon pretend to fay how far he gueifed we were to go.
At thirteen minutes paft eight we alighted in a fandy plain abfolutely without herbage, covered with loofe ftones, a quarter of a mile due north of the well, v/hich is in the narrow gorge, form.- ing the fouthern outlet of this fmall plain. Though we had travelled thirteen hours and a quarter this day, it was but at a flow pace, our camels being famifhed, as w^ell as tired, and lamed like wife by the fharp ftones with which the ground in all places was covered. The country, for three days paft, had been deftitute of herbage of any kind, entirely defert, and abandoned to moving fands. We faw this day, after palling Ras el Seah, large blocks and ftrata of pure white marble, equal to any in colour that ever came from Paros.
Chiggre is a fmall narrovv^ valley, clofely covered tip and furrounded with barren rocks. The wells ar-e ten in number, and the narrow gorge which opens to them is not ten yards broad. The fprings, however, are very abundant. Where- ver a pit is dug five or fix feet deep, it is imme- diately filled with water. The principal pool is about forty yards fquare and five feet deep ; but the beft tafted water was in the cleft of a rock,
about
J
26 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
about 30 yards higher, on the weft fide of this narrow outlet. All the water, however, was very- foul, with a number of animals both aquatic and land. It was impoffible to drink without putting a piece of our cotton girdle over our mouths, to keep, by filtration, the filth of dead animals out of it. We faw a great many partridges upon the face of the bare rock ; but what they fed upon I could not guefs, unlefs upon infedls. We did not dare to fiioot at them, for fear of being heard by the wandering: Arabs that miofht be fomewhere in the neighbourhood ; for Chiggre is a haunt of the Biftiareen of the tribe of Abou Bertran, who, though they do not make it a ftation, 4;^ecaufe there is no paflure in the neighbourhood, nor can sny thing grow there, yet it is one of the moft valuable places of refrefhment, on account of the great quantity of water, being nearly half way, when they drive their cattle from the borders of the Red Sea to the banks of the Nile ; as alfo in their expeditions from fouth to north, when they leave their encampments in Barbar, to rob the Ababde Arabs on the frontiers of Egypt.
Our iirft attention was to our camels, to whom we gave that day a double feed of dora, that they might drink for the reft of their journey, fhould the wells in the way prove fcant of water. We then waihed iu a large pool, the coldeft water, I think, I ever felt, on account of its being in a cave covered with rock, and was inaccefiible to the fun in any direction. All my people feemed to be greatly recovered by this refrigeration, but from
fomc
THE SOURCE OP THE NILE. 527
feme caufe or other^ it fared otherwife with* the Tucorory ; one of whom died about an hour after oar arrival, and another early the iiext morning.
Subordination, if now not entirely gone, was expiring, fo that I fcarcely expected to have in- tereft enough with my own fervants to help me to fet up my large quadrant : Yet I was exceed* ingly curious to know the lituation of this re- markable place, which Idris the Hybeer declared to be half way to Affouan. But it feems their curiofity was not lefs than mine ; above all, they wanted to prove that Idris was miftaken, and that we were confiderably nearer to Egypt than we were to Barbar. While Idris and the men filled the fkins with water, the Greeks and I fet up the quadrant, and, by obfervation of the two bright ftars of Orion, 1 found the latitude of Chiggreto be 20^ 58' 30" N. ; fo that, allowing even fome fmali error in the poiition of Syenein the French maps, Idris's guefs was very near the truth, and both the latitude and longitude of Chiggre and Syene feemed to require no further inveftigation.
During the whole time of the obfervation, an antelope, of a very large kind, went feveral times round and round the quadrant ; and at the tim.e when my eyes were fixed upon the ftar, came fo near as to bite a part of my cotton cloth which I had fpread like a carpet to kneel on. Even when I flirred, it would leap about two or three yards from me, and then flacd and gaze with fuch at- tention, that it would have appeared to by°ftanders (Iiad there been any) that we had been a long time
acDuainted.
328
TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
acquainted. The firft idea was the common one, to kill it. I eafily could have done this with a lance ; but it feemed fo interefted in what I was doing, that I began to think it might perhaps be my good genius which had come to vifit, protedi:, and encourage me in the defperate fituation in which I then was.
CHAR
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE, 329
CHAP. XII.
Dijirejfes in the Defert — Meet with Arabs— ^ Camels die — Baggage abandoned — Come to Syene.
On the 17th of November, at half pad ten in the forenoon, we left the valley and pool of Chig- gre. Ifmael, and Georgis the blind Greek, had complained of fhivering all night, and I began to be very apprehenfive fome violent fever was to follow. Their perfpiration had not returned but in fmall quantity ever fince their coming out of the water, and the night had been exceffively cold, the thermometer (landing at 63°, The day, how- ever, was infufferabiy hot, and their complaints infenfibly wore off to my great comfort. A little before eleven we were again terrified by an army (as it feemed) of fand pillars, w^hofe march was conftantly fouth, and the favourite field which they occupied was that great circular fpace which the Nile makes when oppofite to AfTa Nagga, where it turns weft to Kgrti and Dongola. At
one
330 TRAVELS TO t)ISCOVER
one time a number of thefe pillars faced to the ■eaftv/ard, and feemed to be coming, direclly upon us ; but, though they were little nearer us than two miles, a confiderable quantity of fand fell round us. I bes^an now to be fomewhat recon- died to this phsenomenon, feeing it had hitherto done us no harm. The great magnificence it ex- hibited in its appearance, feemed in fome meafure, to indemnify us for the panic it had firft occafion- ed : But it was other wife with the fimoom; we all of us were firmly perfuaded that another palTage of the purple meteor over us would be attended ^\'ith our deaths.
At half pail four we aliglited in a vaft plain, bounded on all fides by low fandy hills, which feemed to have been tranfported hither lately. Thefe hillocks were from fcven to thirteen feet i high, drawn into perfect cones, with very fliarp points and well-proportioned bafes. The fand was of an inconceivable finenefs, having been the fport , of hot winds for thoufands of years. There could | be no doubt that the day before, v/hen it was calm, and we fuiTered fo much by the fimoom ,j between El Mout and Chis:2're, the wind had been raifing pillars of fand in this place called Urn- doom ; marks of the whirling motion of the pil- lars were diftinclly feen in every heap, fo that here again, while we were repining at the fimoom^ providence was bufied keeping us out of the way of another fcene, where, if we had advanced a day, we had all of us been involved in inevitable deilrudion.
On
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 331
On the 1 8th we left Umdoom at feven in the morning, our direction N. a little inclined to W. ; at nine o'clock we paffed through a fandy plain, without trees or verdure. About 300 yards out of our way, to the left, among fome fandy hil- locks, where the ground feems to be more eleva- ted than the reft, Idris the Hybeer told me, that one of the largeft caravans which ever came out of Egypt, under the conduct of the Ababde and the Bifhareen Arabs, was there covered with fand to the number of fome thoufands of caniels. There are large rocks of grey granite fcattered through this plain. At ten o'clock we alighted at a place called Erboygi, where are fome treeSj to feed our camels. The trees I have fo often mentioned in our journey thro' the defert are not timber, or tall-growing trees ; there are none of thefe north of Sennaar, except a few at Chendi. The trees I fpeak of, which the camels eat, are a Jtind of dwarf acacin, growing only to the height of bufhes ; and the wood fpoken of likewife is only of the defert kind, ate almoft bare by the camels. There are fome high trees, indeed, on the banks of the Nile. At half paft one o'clock we left Erboygi, and came to a large wood of doom (Palma cuciofer4). Here, for the firft time^ we faw a flirub which very much refembled Spa- nilli broom. The whole ground is dead fand, with fome rocks of reddiih granite. Exadly at five o'clock we alighted in the wood, after having travelled a moderate pace. The place is called El Cowicj and is a ftation of the Bifliareen in the
fummer
332 . TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fummer months ; but thefe people v/ere now eafl, of us, three days journey, towards the Red Sea, where the rains had fallen, and there was plenty of pafture. At forty minutes paft twelve we left El Cowie, and at five o'clock in the evening alighted in a wood, called Terfowey, full of trees and grafs. The trees are the talleft and largeft we had feen iince leaving the Nile. We had this day enjoyed, as it were, a holiday, free from, the ter- rors of the fand, or dreadful influence of the fi- moom.. This poifonous wind had made feveral attem.pts to prevail this day, but was always over- powered by a cool breeze at north.
On the 19th we left the weft end of the wood, or rather continued the whole length of it, and at a quarter paft eight in the evening arrived at the well. It is about four fathoms deep, but the fpring not very abundant. We drained it feveral times, and were obliged to wait its filling again, Thefe laft two days, fince we were at El Cowie, we had feen more verdurs than we had altogether fince we left Barbar. Here, particularly at Ter- fowey, the acacia-trees are tall and verdant, but the mountains on each fide appear black and bar- ren beyond imagination.
As foon as we alighted at Terfowey, and had
chofen a proper place where our camels could feed, we unloaded our baggage near them, and fent the men to clean the well, and wait the filling of the fldns. We had lighted a large fire. The nights were exceiTively cold, though the thermometer was at 53^ 5 and that cold occafioned me inex-
prefiible
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 333
preflible pain in my feet, now fwelled to a nion- ftrous fize, and everywhere inflamed and excori- , ated. I had taken upon me the charge of the baggage, and Mahomet, Idris's young man, the care of the camels ; but he too was gone to the well, though expected to return immediately.
A doubt had arifen in my mind by the way, which was then giving me great uneafinefs. If Syene is under the fame meridian with Alexan- dria, (for fo Eratofthenes conceived when heat- tempted to meafure the circumference of the earth) in this cafe, Alexandria being fuppofed to lye in long. 30*^, Syene muft be in 30® likewife ; but Gooz being in 34°, it is impoilible that Syene can be within a trifle north of Gooz ; and therefore we muft have a much greater quantity of welling to travel than Idris the Hybeer imagines, who places Syene a very little weft of the meridian of Gooz, or immediately under the fam.e meridian, and due north from it.
Our camels were always chained by the feet, and the chain fecured by a padlock, left they Ihould wander in the night, or be liable to be ftolen and carried oft. Muiing then upon the geo- graphical difficulties juft mentioned, and gazing before m.e, wdthout any particular intention or fufpicion, I heard the chain of the camels clink, as if fomebody w^as unloofing them, and then, at the end of the gleam made by the fire, I faw dif- tincdy a man pafs fwiftly by, ftooping as he v/ent along, his face almoft to the ground. A little time after this I heard another clink of the chain,
as
334 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
if from a pretty Hiar p blow, and immediately af<. ter a movement among the camels. I thxen rofe, and cried in a threatening tone, in Arabic, " I charge you on your life, whoever you are, either come up to m.e directly, or keep at a diilance till day, but come that way no more ; why lliould you throw your life away ?" In a minute after, he repaffed in the ihade among the trees, pretty | much in the manner he had done before. As I was on guard between the baggage and the ca- mels, I was confequently arm.ed, and advanced deliberately Ibme fteps, as far as the light of the iire ihone, on pui-poie to difcover how many they v;ere, and was ready to fire upon the next I faw. " If you are an lioneft man, cried I aloud, and want any thing, come up to the fire and fear not, I am alone ; but if you approach the camels or the baggage again, the world vvili not be able to fave your life, and your blood be upon your own head.'* Mahomet, Idris's nephew, who heard me cry, came running up from, the well to fee what was the matter. We went down t02:ether to where the camels were, and, upon examination, found that the links of one of the chains had been broke, but the opening not large enough to let the cor- refponding whole link through to feparate it. A hard blue ftone was driven through a link of one of the chains of another camel, and left flicking there, the chain not being entirely broken through; we faw, befides, the print of a man's feet on the fand. There was no need to tell us after this that we v/ere not to fleep that night j v/e made there- fore
THE SOURCE OF THE MLE. ^zz
fore another fire on the other fide of the camels with branches of the acacia-tree," which v/e sla- thered. I then fent the man back to Idris at the well, defiring him to fill hjs fivins with water be- fore it was light, and tranfport them to the bag- gage where I was, and to be all ready armed there by the dawn of day ; foon after which, if the Arabs were fufEciently ftrong, we were very cer- tain they would attack us. This agreed perfectly with Idris's ideas alfo, fo that, contenting: them- felves with a leffer quantity of water than thev iirft intended to have taken, they lifted the ikins upon the camels I fent them, and were at the ren- dezvous, near the baggage, a- little after four in the morning.
The Barbarins, and, in general, all the lower fort of Moors and Turks, adorn their arms and wrifts with amulets ; thefe are charms, and are fome favourite vtt±Q of the Koran wrapt in paper, neatly covered v/ith Turkey k^^ther. The two Earbarins that uere with me had procured for themfelves new ones at Sennaar, which v/ere to defend them from the fimoom and the fand, and all the dano-ers of the defert. That thev mip-ht not foil thefe in fillino; the water, thevhad taken them from their arms, and laid thern on the brink of the well before they v/ent dovv^n. Upon look. ing for thefe after the girbas were filled, they were not to be found. This double attempt was an indication of a number of neoole being: in the
A J. O
neighbourhood, in which cafe our prefent iitua- tion was one of the moil defperate that could he
fia^ured
33^ TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
figured. We were in the middle of the mofi: bar- ren, inhofpitable defert in the world, and it was . witli,the utmofl difficulty that, from day to day, we could carry wherewithal to alTuage our thirft. We had with us the only bread it was poffible to procure for fome hundred miles ; lances and fwords were not neceffary to deftroy us, the burft- ing or tearing of a girba, the lamenefs or death of a camel, a thorn or fprain in the foot which might difable us from walking, were as certain death to us as a Ihot from a cannon. There was no flaying for one another ; to lofe tiine was to die, beeaufe, with the utmoft exertion our camels could make, we fcarce could carry along with us a fcanty proviiion of bread and water fufficient to keep us alive.
That defert, which did not afford inhabitants for the affiilance or relief of travellers, had great- ly m^ore than fufficient for deftroying them. Large tribes of Arabs, two or three thoufand, encamped together, v/ere cantoned, as it were, in dilTerent places of this defert, where there was water enough to ferve their numerous herds of cattle, and thefe, as their occaiion required, traverfed in parties .all that wide expanfe of folitude, from the mountains near the Red Sea call, to the banks of the Nile on the weft, according as their feveral deilgns or neceffities required. Thefe wete Jahe- leen Arabs, thofe cruel, barbarous fanatics, that deliberately ihed fo much blood during the time they were eftabiiihing the Mahometan religion. Their prejudices had never been removed by any
mixture
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 337
mixture of ftrangers, or foftened by fociety, even with their own nation after they were polilhed ; but buried 3 as it were, in thefe wild deferts, if they were not grown more favage, they had at leaft preferved, in their full vigour, thofe mur- dering principles which they had brought with thetn into that country, under the brutal and in- human butcher Kaled Ibn el Waalid, impioufly called The Sword of God, If it ihould be our lot to fall among thefe people, and it was next to a certainty that we were at that very inftant fur- rounded by them, death was certain, and our on- ly comfort v/as, that we could die but once, and that to die like men was in our own option. In- deed, without confidering the bloody character, which thefe wretches naturallv bear, there could be no reafon for letting us live : We could be of no fervice to them as Haves ; and to have fent us into Egypt, after having hril rifled and deflroyed our goods, could not be done by them but at a great expence, to which well-inclined people only could have been induced from charity, and of that lad virtue they had not even heard the name. Our onlv chance then remaining was, that their number might be fo fmall, that, by ouc great fu- periority in fire-arms and in courage, we might turn the misfortune upon the aggrelTors, deprive them of their cam. els and means of carrying wa- ter, and leave them fcattered in the defer t, to that death which either they or we, without alterna« tive, muft fuiFer. *
Vol. V. Z I explained
358 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
I explained myfelf to this purpofe, briefly to the people, on which a great cry followed, " God is great! let them come!" Our arms were per- fectly in order, and our old Turk Ifmael feemed to move about and direct with the vigour of a young man. As we^ bad no doubt they would be mounted on camels, fo we placed ourfelves a little within the edge of the trees. The embers of our two fires were on our front ; our tents^ baggage, and boxes, on each fide of us, between the opening of the trees j our camels and water behind us, the camels being chained together be- hind the water, and ropes at their heads, which were tied to trees. A ikin of water, and two wooden bowls befide it, was left open for thofe that fiiould need to drink. We had finifhed our breakfafi: before day -break, and I had given all the men dired:ions to fire feparately, not together, at the fame fet of people ; and thofe who had the biunderbulTes to fire where they faw a number of camels and men together, and efpecially at any camels they faw with girbas upon them, or where there was the greateft confufion.
The day broke ; no Arabs appeared ; all was Ml. The danger which occurred to our minds then was, left, if they were few, by tarrying we ihould give them time to fend off meflengers to bring afiiftance. I then took Ifmael and two Bar- barins along with me, to fee who thefe neigh- bours of ours could be. We foon traced in the land the footfteps of the man who had been at our camels j and, following them behind the point of
a rock,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 339
a rock, which feemed calculated for concealing thieves, we faw two ragged, old, dirty tents, pitched with grafs cords.
The two Barbarins entered one of them, and found a naked woman there. Ifmael and I ran briildy into the largeft, where we faw a man and a woman both perfectly naked, frightful, emaci» ated figures, not like the inhabitants of this world. The man was partly fitting on his hams ; a child, feemingly of the age to fuck, was on a rag at the corner, and the woman looked as if £be wiihed to hide herfelf. I fprung forward upon the man, and, taking him by the hair of the head, pulled him upon his back on the floor, fetting my foot upon his bread:, and pointing my knife to his throat ; I faid to him flernly, " If you mean to pray, pray quickly, for you have but this mo- ment to live." The fellow was fo frightened, he fcarce could beg us to fpare his life ; but the wo- man, as it afterwards appeared, the mother of the fuckling child, did not feem to copy the paffive difpoiition of her huiband ; fhe ran to the corner of the tent, where was an old lance, with which, I doubt not, ilie v/ould have fuiBciently diftin- guiihed herfelf, but it happened to be entangled v/ith the cloth of the tent, and Ifmael felled her to the ground with the butt-end of his blunder- bufs, and wrefted the lance from her. A violent howl was fet up by the remaining woman like the cries of thofe in torment. " Tie them, faid I, Ifmael ; keep them feparate, and carry them to the baggage till I fettle accounts with this camel-
Z 2 ilealer.
340 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ftealer, and then you fhall ftrike their three heads' off, where they intended to leave us miferably to perifti with hunger ; but keep them feparate." While the Barbarins were tying the woman, the one that was the nurfe of the child turned to her hufband, and faid, in a moft mournful, defpair- ing tone of voice, " Did I not tell you, you would never thrive if you hurt that good man ? did not I tell you this would happen for murdering the i\ga ?"
Our people had come to fee what had paiTed^ and I fent the women away, ordering them to be kept feparate, out of the hearing of one another, to judge if in their anfwers they did not prevari- cate. The woman defired to have her child with her, which I granted. The little creature, inftead of being frightened, crowed, and held out its lit- tle hands as it paifed me. We failened the Arab with the chain of the camels, and fo far was well ;. but ftill we did not know how near the Bilhareen might be, nor who thefe were, nor whether they had fent o£F any intelligence in the night. Until we were informed of this, our cafe was little mended. Upon the man's appearing, all my peo- ple declared, with one general voice, that no time was to be loft, but that they fliould all be put to death as foon as the camels were loaded, before we fet out on our journey ; and, indeed, at firft view of the thing, felf-prefervation, the firft law of nature, feemed ftrongly to require it. liagi Ifmael was fo determined on the execution that he was already feeking a knife faarper than his
own.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 341
o^vn. " We will flay, Hagi Ifmael, faid I, till we fee if this thief is a liar alfo. If he prevaricates in the anfwers he gives to my queftions, you (hall then cut his head oif, and we will confign him with the lie in his mouth, foul and body to hell, to his mafter whom he ferves." Ifmael anfwered ^' The truth is the truth ; if he lies, he can deferve no better.'*
The reader will ealily underftand the neceffity of my fpeaking at that moment in terms not only unufual for a Chri{iian,^ut even in any fociety or converfation ; and if the ferocity and brutality of the difcourfe ihould fliock any, efpecially my fair readers, they will remember, that thefe were intended for a good and humane purpofe, to pro- duce fear in thofe upon whom we had no other tie, and thereby extort a confeilion of the truth ; which might anfwer two purpofes, the faving the effuiion of their blood, and providing for our own prefervation. " You fee, laid 1, placing the man upon his knees, your time is ihort, the fvv^ord is now di'awn which is to make an end of you, take time, anfwer diftinclly and deliberately, for the firft trip or lie that you make, is the laft word that you will utter in' this world. Your wife fliall have her fair chance likewife, and your child ; you and all fhall go together, unlefs you tell me the naked truth. Here, Ifmael, Hand by him, and take my fword, it is, I believe, the fharpeft in the company."
" Now I aik you, at your peril, who was the good man your wife reproached you with having
murdered ?
340
TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
rii
ftealer, and then you fhall ftrike their three heads' off,' where they intended to leave us miferably to perifti with hunger ; but keep them feparate." While the Barbarins were tying the woman, the one that was the nurfe of the child turned to her hufband, and faid, in a moft mournful, defpair- ing tone of voice, '' Did I not tell you, you would never thrive if you hurt that good man ? did not I tell you this would happen for murdering the Aga?"
Our people had come to fee what had pafTed^ and I fent the women away, ordering them to be kept feparate, out of the hearing of one another,^ to judge if in their anfwers they did not prevari- cate. The woman deiired to have her child with her, which I granted. The little creature, inftead of being frightened, crowed, and held out its lit- tle hands as it paifed me. We failened the Arab with the chain of the camels, and fo far was well ;. but ftill we did not know how near the Bifhareen might be, nor who thefe were, nor whether they had fent off any intelligence in the night. Until we were informed of this, our cafe was little mended. Upon the man's appearing, all my peo- ple declared, with one general voice, that no time was to be loft, but that they fliould all be put to death as foon as the camels were loaded, before we fet out on our journey ; and, indeed, at firft view of the thing, felf-prefervation, the firll law of nature, feemed ftrongly to require it. liagi Ifmael was fo determined on the execution that he was already feeking a knife faarper than his
own.
'ifl,;'
0^. "^^
M the auto tkn cut lii> ftitiitlieiki
"Tktmib no better."
ofii:y.. mill'. ■ 01 m" oftlie£,v.:.
inteDdeu a i ducefer' i
wtlir. eifec prefenr' upon'H-.. nowdn
*^% ■liitle
\AmM
OR,]
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE.
343f
uGit
own. " We will ftay, Hagi Ifmael, faid I, till we fee if this thief is a liar alfo. If he prevaricates in the anfwers he gives to my queftions, you ftiall then cut his head off, and we will conlign him with the lie in his mouth, foul and body to hell, to his matter whom he ferves." Ifmael anfwered ^' The truth is the truth ; if he lies, he can deferve no better.'*
The reader will eafily underftand the necefTity of my fpeaking at that moment in terms not only unufual for a Chrif(:ian,l3ut even in any fociety or converfation ; and it: the ferocity and brutality of the difcourfe fhould ihock any, efpecially my fair readers, they will remember, that thefe were intended for a good and humane purpofe, to pro- duce fear in thofe upon whom we had no other tie, and thereby extort a confeffion of the truth ; which might anfwer two purpofes, the faving the effulion of their blood, and providing for our own prefervation. " You fee, laid I, placing the man upon his knees, your time is ihort, the fvvx^rd is now di'awn which is to m.ake an end of you, take time, anfwer diftinctly and deliberately, for the firft trip or lie that you make, is the laft word that you will utter in' this Vv^orld. Your wife fliall have her fair chance likewife, and your child ; you and all fhail go together, unlefs you tell me the naked truth. Here, Ifmael, Hand by him, and take my fword, it is, I believe, the lh?trpeft in the company."
" Now I aik you, at your peril, who was the good man your wife reproached you with having
murdered ?
342 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
murdered ? where was it, and vAhen, and who were your accomplices ? He anfwered trembling, and indiftind:ly, through fear, " It was a black, an Aga from Chendi." " Mahomet Towafh, fays Tfmael ; Ullah Kerim ! God is merciful !" " The fame," fays the Bifhareen. He then related the particulars of his death in the manner in which I ihall have occaiion to ftate afterwards. ^' Where are the Biihareen ? continued I ; where is Abou Bertran ? how foon will a light camel and meffen- ger arrive v/here he now is ?" " In lefs than two days ; perhaps, fays he, in a day and a half, if he is very diligent and the camel good.'* " Take care, faid I, you are in danger. Where did you and your women come from, and when ?" " From Abou Bertran, fays he ; we arrived here at noon on the 5th day*, but the camels were all fhe-ca- mels ; they are favourite camels of Shekh Seide ; we drove them foftly ; the two you fav/ at the tents are lame ; belides there w^ere fome others un* found ; there were alfo women and children." " Where did that party, and their camels, go to from this ? and what number of men was there with them ?" " There were about three hundred camels of all forts, and about thirty men, all of them fervants ; fome of them had one lance, and fome of them two ; they had no Ihields or other arms." " What did you intend laft night to do with my camels ?" " I intended to have carried
them,
* It i,': not here to b.2 undcrflood that the Arab Gefcrifaed the day by ihe 5th, but by an interyal of time which we knew correftDondcd to the 5tb.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 343
th^m, with the women and child, to join the par- ty at the Nile." " What muft have become of me in that cafe ? we muft have died ?" He did not anfwer. " Take care, laid I, the thing is now over, and you are in my hands ; take care what you fay. '* " Why, certainly, fays h^, you muft have died, you could not live, you could not go anywhere elfe. " If another party had found us here, in that cafe would they have flain us ?" He heiitated a little, then, as if he recollected himfclf, faid, " Yes, furely, they mur- dered the Aga, and would murder any body that had not a Bifhareen with them." A violent cry of condemnation immediately followed. ''Now attend and underftand me dillinclly, faid I, for upon thefe two queftions hangs your life : Do you know of any party of Bifhareen who are foon to pafs here, or any wells to the north, and in what number? and have you fent any intelligence lince laft night you faw us here ?" He anfwered, with more readinefs than ufual, " We have fent nobody anywhere ^ our camels are lame; we were to follow, as foon as they could be able to travel to join thofe at the Nile. The parties of the Bifha^ reen are always paihng here, fometimes more, fometimes iefs ; they will not come till they hear from the Nile whether the grafs is grown. They have with them two dromedaries, who will carry the news from the Nile in three days, or they. will come in fmall parties like the laft, for they have no fear in thefe parts. The wells to the north belong to the Ababde. When they pafs by
them
344 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
them with cattle they are always in great num- bers, and a Shekh along with them ; but thole wells are now fo fcanty they have not water for any number, and they muil therefore all pafsthis way.''
I got up, and called on Ifmacl. The poor fel- low thousrht he was to die. Life is fweet evento the moft miferable. He was (lill upon his knees, holding his hands clafped j'ound the back of his neckj and already, I fuppofe, thought he felt the edge of Ifmael's knife. He fwore that every word he had fpoken was truth ; and if his wife w^as brought fhe could not tell another ftory.
I thereupon left him, and went to his v/ife, Tvho, when flie faw Hagi Ifmael with a drawn fword in his hand, thought all was over with her hufband, and fell into a violent fit of defpair, cry, ing out, " That all the men were liars and mur- derers, but that ihe would have told the truth if I had aikedher firft." '' Then go, Hagi Ifmael, faid I, tell them not to put him to death till I come, and now you have your chance, which if you do not improve by telling the truth, I will iirft flay your child with my own hand before your face, and then order you all to be cruelly put to death together." She began with great earneftnefs to i^ay, " She could not tell who killed Mahom.et Towafli, for ilie only heard it in con- verfation from her hufband, who was there, after he had come home." I then, word for word, put thofe queftions to her that I had done to her hufband, and had precifely the fame anfwers.
The
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 345
The only difference was, that fiie believed a party of the Ababde would pafs Ghiggre foon ; but fee- ing me rife to go away, fhe burft out into a flood of tears, and tore her hair in the moft violent ex- cefs of paffion ; fhrieking out, to have naercy upon her, and prefling the little child to her bread as if to take leave of it, then laying it down be- fore me, in great agony and bitterneis of heart, ilie again fhrieked out, '' If you are a Turk, make it a ilave,*but do not kill my child, and fpare my huiband."
Though I underflood Arabic well, I did not, till that day, know it had fuch powers, or that it contained exprefiions at ofice fo forcible and fo fimpie. I found myfelf fo much moved, and my tears came fo fafl, that it was in vain to endea-- vour to carrv on a farce under fuch tragical ao-
* Ox
pearances. " Woman, faid I, I am not a Turk,
nor do I make ilavcs, or kill children. It is vour
Arabs that force me to this ; it was vou that at-
tacked me lad night, it vv'-as you that murdered
Mahomet Towaili, one of vour own relioion, and
bufied in his duty. I am a ftranger, feeking my
own fafety, but you are all murderers and thieves.'*
— "It is true, fays fhe, they are all murderers and
liars, and m.y huiband, not knowing, may have lied
too. Only let me hear what he told you, and I
will tell you whether it is truth or not." Day
was novvT advancing apace, and no refolution taken
whilft our prefent fituation was a very unfafeone.
We carried the three prifoners bound, and fet
George, the Greek, centinel over them. I then
called the people together.
I ftatcd
346 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
I ftated fairly, in a council held among our- felves, the horror of flaus^hterinoj the women and child, or even leaving them to flarvs with hun- ger by killing their camels, from whom they got their only fuftenance ; for, though we fhould not ftain our hands with their blood, it was the fame thing to leave them to perifh : that v/e were ftran- gers, and had fallen upon them by accident, but they were in their own country. On the contrary, fuppofe we only flew the man, any of the women might mount a camel, and, travelling with dili- gence, might inform the Bifhareen, who would fend a party and cut us off at the next well, where we mull pafs, and where it would be impojflible to efcape them. I m.uft fay, there was a confider- able majority for fparing the women and child, and not one but who willingly decreed the death of the man, who had confeiled he was endeavour- ing to fteal our camels, and that he intended to carry them to his party at the Nile ; in which cafe the lofs of all our lives was certain, as we Ihould have been ftarved to death, or murdered bv the Arabs.
The very recital of this attempt fo enraged Hagi Ifmael that he defired he might have the prefer- ence in cutting oft his head. The Barbarins, too, were angry for the lofs of their bracelets. Indeed every one's opinion was, that the Arab fliould die, and efpecially hnce the account of their be- haviour to Mahomet Tov/aih, wliofe death I, for my owm part, cannot fay I thought my felf under any obHgation to revenge. " Since you are dif-
^ferini
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 347
fering in your opinions, and there is no time to lofe, faid I, allow me to give you mine. It lias appeared to me, that often, iince we began this journey, we have been preferved by vifible in- ftances of God's protection, when we fliould have loft our lives if we had gone by the rules of our judgment only. We are, it is true, of different religions, but all worfhip the fam.e God. 8up- pofe the prefent cafe fliould be a trial, whether we truft really in God's protection, or whether we believe our fafety owing to our pwn forefight and courage. If the man's life be now taken away, to-morrow we may m.eet the Bifhareen, and then we ftiall all reflect upon the fofly of our precaution. For my own part, my conflant creed is, that I am in God's hands, whether in the houfe or in the defert; and not in thofe of the Bifliareen, or of any lawlefs fpoiler. I have a clear con- fcience, and am engaged in no unlawful purfuit, feeking on foot my way home, feeding on bread and water, and have done, nor deiign, wrong to no man. We are well armed, are nine in number, and have twice as many firelocks, many of thefe with double-barrels, and others of a iize never before feen by Arabs, armies of whom have been defeated with fev/er : we are rap-o-ed and tattered in our clothes, and no prize to any one, nor do I think we fliall be found a party of pleafure for any fet of wild young men, to leave their own homes, with javejins and lances to \vay>lay us at the well for fport and diverfion, fince gain and profit are out of the queilion. But
this
348 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
this I declare to you, if ever we meet thefe Arabs, if the ground is fuch as has been near all the wells we have come to, I will fight the Bifhareen boldly and chearfuily, without a' doubt of beating them with eafe. I do not fay my feelings would be the •fame if my confcience was loaded with that moil heinous and horrid crime, murder in cold blood ; and therefore my determination is to fpare the life even of this man, and will oppofe his being put to death by every means in my power."
It was eafy to fee, that fear of their own lives only, and not cruelty, was the reafon they fought that of the Arab. Thev anfwered me, two or three of them at once, ^' That it was ail very "well ; what fhould they clo ? fliould they give themfelves up to theiliihareen, and be murdered like Mahomet Towafh ? was there any other way of efcaping?'^ " I will tell you, then, iince you alk me what you fhould do: You ihall follow the duty of felf-defence and felf-prefervation, as far as you can do it without a crime. You fhall leave the women and the child where they are,and^with them the camels, to give them and their child milk ; you fhall chain the hufband's right hand to the left of fome of yours, and you Ihall each of you take him by turns till we fhall carry him into Egypt. Perhaps he knows the defert and. the well s better than Idris ; and if he fhould not, flill We have two Hybeers inflead of one : and who can foretell what may happen to Idris more than to any other of us ? But as he knows the ftations of his people, and their courfes at particular
fcafons
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE, 349
feafons, that day tve meet one Bidiareen, the man *thatis chained with him, and conducls him, (hall inftantly ftab him to the heart, fo that he ihail not fee, much lefs triumph in, the fuccefs of his treach- ery. On the contrary, if he is faithful, and in- forms Idris where the danger is, and where we are to avoid it, keeping us rather by fcanty wells than abundant ones, on the day I arrive fafely iu Egypt I will cloath him anew, as alfo his women, give him a good camei for himfelf, and a load of dora for them all. As for the camels we leave here, they are flie-ones, and neceffary to give the women food. They are not lame, it is faid, but we Ihall lame them in earneft, fo that they ihall not be able to carry a meifenger to the Bifiiareen before they die with third in the way, both they and their riders, if they iliouid attempt it."
An univerfal applaufe followed this fpeech ; Idris, above all, declared his warmeft approbation. The man and the women were fent for, and had their fentence repeated to them. They all fub- fcribed to the conditions chearfully ; and the woman declared ihe would as foon fee her child die as be an inftrument of any harm befalling us, and that, if a thoufand Bifhareen fhould pafs, Hie knew how to miflead them all, and that none of them, fliould follow us till- we were far out of danger.
I fent two Barbarins to lame the camels efFeclu- ally, but not fo as to make them paft recovery. After which, for the nurfe and the child's fake, I took twxlve handfuls of the bread which was our
cnlv
350 TRAVELS TO DtSCOVEH
only food, and indeed we could fcarcely fpare it, as we faw afterwards, and left it to this miferable family, with this agreeable reflection, however, that we iliould be to them in the end a much greater bieiTnig than in the beginning we had been an afflii^Hon, provided only they kept their faith, and on their part deferved it.
On the 2oth, at eleven o'clock we left the well at Terfowey, after having warned the women, that their chance of feeing their hufband again depended vi^holly upon his and their faithful con- dud. We took our prifoner with us, his right hand being chained to the left of one of the Bar- barins. We had no fooner got into the plain than we felt great fymptoms of the iimoom, and about a quarter before twelve, our prifoner firft, and then Idris, cried out, The Simoom ! the Si- moom ! My curiofity would not fuifer me to fall down without looking behind me. About due fouth, a little to the eaft, I faw the coloured haze as before. It feemed now to be rather lefs com- preffed, and to have with it a lliade of blue. The edges of it were not defined as thofe of the for- mer, but like a very thin fmoke, with about a yard in the middle tinged with thofe colours. We all fell upon our faces, and the iimoom palled with a gentle ruffiing wind. It continued to blow in this manner till near three o'clock, fo we were all taken ill that night, and fcarcely ftrength was left us to load the camels and arrange the baggage. This day one of our camels died, partly famiihed, partly oveixome v/ith extreme fatigue, fo that,
incapable
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 351
incapable as we v/ere of labour, we were obliged, for felf-prefervation's fake, to cut off thin llices of'the flefliy part of the camel, and hang it in fo many thongs upon the trees all night, and after upon the baggage, the fun drying it immediate- ly, fo as to prevent putrefaftion. , At half paft eight in the evening we alighted at a well called Naibey, in a bare, fandy plain, where there were a few ftraggling acacia-trees. We had all this day feen large blocks of foffile fait upon the furface of the earth where we trod. This was the caufe, I fuppofe, that both the fpring at Terfowey, and now this of Naibey, were brackiili to the tafte, and efpecially that of Naibey. We found near the well the corpfe of a man and two camels upon the ground. It was apparently long ago that this accident happened, for the mioifture of the camel was fo exhaled that it feemed to weigh but a very few pounds ; no vermin had touched it, as in this whole defert there is neither worm, fly, nor any thing that has the breath of life.
On the 2ift, at fix in the morning, having filled the girbas with water, we fet out from Naibey, our direction due north, and, as we thought, in a courfe almoft ftraight upon Syene, The firft hour of our journey was through fharp- pointed rocks, which it was very eafy to forefee v/ould very foon liniih our camels. About eight we had a view of the defert to the weftward as be- fore, and faw the fands had already begun to rife in immenfe twilled pillars, which darkened the
heavens
352 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
heavens. The rifing of thefe in the morning fo early, we began now to oblerve, was a fure fign of a hot day, with a briik wind at north ; and that heat, and the early riling of the fands, was as fure a iign of its falling calm about rnid-day, and its being followed by two hours of the poifonous wind. That laft confideration was what made the greateil impreiiion, for we had felt its effects ; it had filled us with fear, and abforbed the laft remnant of our ftrength ; whereas the fahd, though a deftruclion to us if it had involved us in its compafs, had as yet done us no other harm than terrifying us the nrft days we had feen it.
It v/as this day more magnificent than any we had as yet feen. The fun fhining through the pillars, which were thicker, and contained more fand apparently than any of the preceding days, feem.ed to give thofe neareft us an appearance as if fpotted with flars of gold. I do not think at any time they feemed to be nearer than two miles. The moft remarkable circumftance was, that the fand feemed to keep in that vafl circular fpace furrounded by the Nile on our left, in going round by Chaigie towards Dongola, and feldom was ob- ferved much to the eaftward of a meridian, pailing along the Nile through the Magiran, before it takes that turn ; whereas the fimoom was always on the oppofite iide of our courfe, coming upon us from the fouth-eaft.
A little before twelve our vAnd at north ceafed, and a confiderable quantity of fine, land rained
upon
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 353
Upon us for an hour afterwards. At the time it appeared, the defcription of this phaenomenon in Syphax's fpeecli to Cato was perpetually before my mind : —
So, where our wide Numidian waftes extend. Sudden th' impetuous hurricanes defcead. Wheel through the air, in circling eddies play. Tear up the fands, and fweep whole plains away« The helplefs traveller, with wild furprife, -% Sees the dry defert all around him rife, ^
And fmother'd in the dufty whirlwind dies. J
Addifon.
Thefe lines are capital, and are a fine copy, which can only appear tame by the original having been before our eyes, painted by the great mailer, the Creator and Ruler of the world.
The fimoom, with the wind at S. E. imme- diately follows the wind at N. and the ufual defpondency that always accompanied it. The blue meteor, with v^hich it began, paiTed over us about twelve, and the ruffling wind that followed it continued till near two. Silence, and a defper- ate kind of indifference about life, were the im- mediate efFecls upon us ; and I began now, feeing the condition of my camels, to fear we were all doomed to a fandy grave, and to contemplate it with feme degree of reiignation. At half paft eight in the evening we alighted in a fandy flat, where there was great ftore of bent grafs and trees which had a confiderable degree of verdure, acir-
Vol. V. A a cumftancc
I
354 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Gumftancc much in favour of our camels. We- determined to ftop here to give them an oppor- tunity of eating their fill where they could iind it.
On the ssd, at iix o'clock we fet out from the fandy fiat, and one of the Tucorory was feized with a phrenzy or madnefs. At Srft I took it for a fit of the epilepfy, by the diftortions of his face, but it was foon feen to be of a more ferious na- ture. Whether he had been before afflicled with it I know not. I offered to bleed him, which he refufed ; neither, though we gave him water ^^ would he drink, but very moderately. He rolled upon the ground, and moaned, often repeating two or three words which I did not underftand,. He refufed to continue his journey, or fife from where he lay, fo that we were obliged to leave him to his fortune. We went this, day very di- ligently, not remarkably flow nor fafl; but though our camels, as we thought, had fared well for thefe two nights, another of them died about four o'clock this afternoon, when we came to Umarack. ^
I here began to provide for the worfl, I faw the fate of our camels approaching, and that our men grew weak in proportion ; our bread, too, began to fail us, altho' we had plenty of camels flefii in its flead ; our water, though in all ap- pearance we were to find it more frequently than in the beginning of our journey, was neverthelefs brackifh, and fcarce ferved the purpofe to quench our thirfl ; and, above all, the dreadful fimoom
had
THE: SOURCE OF THE NILE. 355
had perfectly exhaufted ourftrength, and brought upon us a degree of cowardice and languor that we ftruggled with in vain ; I therefore, as the laft effort, began to throw away every thing weighty I could fpare, or that was not abfolutely neceifary, fuch as all ihells, fofliles, minerals, and petrefaciions that I could get at, the counter-ca- fes of my quadrant, telefcopes, and clock, and feveral fuch like things.
Our camels were now reduced to five, and it did not feem that thefe were capable of continu- ing their journey much longer. In that cafe, no remedy remained, but that each man fliould car- ry his own water and provifions. Now, as no one man could carry the water he fhduld ufe be- tween well and well, and it was miOre than pro- bable that diilance would be doubled by fome of the wells being found dry ; and if that was not the cafe, yet, as it was impoffible for a man to carry his provifions who could not walk without any burden at all^ our fituation feemed to be moil de;iperate.
The Bifliareen alone feemed to keep us his ftrength, and was in excellent fpirits. Ke had at- tached hinifelf, in a particular manner, to me, and wdth a part of that very fcanty rag which he had round his waift he had m.ade a wrapper, very artificially, according to the m.anner his country- men the Bilhareen practice on fuch occafions. This had greatly defended my feet in the day^ but the pain occafioned by the cold in the night
A a 3 was
356 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
was really fcarce fufFerable. I offered to free him from the confinement of his left hand, which was cha.ined to fome one of the company night and day ; but he very fenfibly refufed it, faying, *'Ua- chain my hands when you load and unload your camels, I cannot then run away from you ; for tho' you did not fiioot me, I Ihould ftarve with hunger and thirft ; but keep me to the end of the journey as you began with me, then I cannot mifoehave, and lofe the reward which you fay you are to give me."
At forty minutes pail three o'clock we faw large ftratas of foilile fait everywhere upon the furface of the s;round. At five we found the body of Maho- met Towaih, on the fpot where he had been mur- dered, ilript naked, and lying on his face unbu- ried. The wound in the back-iinew of his leg was apparent ; he was, beiides, thruft through the back with a lance, and had two wounds in the head with fwords. We followed fome foot- fteps in the fand to the right, and there faw three other bodies, whom Idris knew to be his princi- pal fervants. Thefe, it feemed, had taken to their arms upon the Aga's being firft wounded, and the cowardly treacherous Bifliareens had perfuaded them to capitulate upon promife of giving them camels and provifion to carry them into Egypt, after which they had murdered them behind thefe rocks.
At fix o'clock we alighted at Umarack, fo cal- led from a number of rack trees that grow there,, and which feemed to affe^l: a faltiih foil j at Ra-
back
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 357-
back and Mafuah I had feen them growing in the fea. When I ordered a halt at Umarack, the o-e- neral cry was, to travel all night, fo that we might be at a diftance from that dangerous, un- lucky fpot. The fight of the men murdered, and fear of the Kke fate, had got the better of their other fenfations. In Ihort, there was nothing more vifible, than that their apprehenfions were of two forts, and produced very different opera- tions. The fimoom, the ftalking pillars of fand, and probability of dying with third or hunger, brought on a torpor, or indifference, that made them inactive ; but the difcovery of the Arab at Terfowey, the fear of meeting the Bifhareen at the wells, and the dead bodies of the /'^ and his unfortunate companions, produced a degree of activity and irritation that refembled very much their fpirits being elevated by good news. I told them, that, of all the places in the defert through which they had paffed, this was by far the fafeft, becaufe fear of being met by troops from Affou- an, feeking the murderers of Mahomet Towaih would keep all the Bifhareen at a diftance. Our Arab faid that, the next well belonged to the Ababde, and not the Bilhareen, and that the Bi- ihareen had flain the i\ga there, to make men be- lieve it had been done by the Ababde. Idris con- tributed his moifel of comfort, by affuring us, that the wells now, as far as Egypt, were fo fcan- ty of water, that no party above ten men would truft their provifion to them, and none of us had the leaft apprehenlion from marauders of twice
that
358 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
that number. The night at Umarack was excef- fively cold as to fenfation ; Fahrenheit's thermo- meter was however at 49^ an hour before dar-
iTQ-ht. o
On the 23d we left Umarack at fix o'clock in the morning, our road this day being between mountains of blue Hones of a very fine and per- fedi quality, through the heart of which ran thick veins of jafper, their fi:rata perpendicular to the horizon. There were other mountains of mar- ble of the colour called Ifabella. , In other places the rock feemed compofed of petrified wood, fuch as we had feen in the mountains near CoiTeir. At a quarter paft eleven, going due N. we entered a narrow valley, in which we pafl'ed two wells on our left, and following the windings through this valley, all of deep fand, we came to a large pool of excellent water, called Umgwat, fhelter- tered from the ravs of the fun bv a lars^e rock which projected over it, the upper part of which was fhaped like a wedge, and was compofed all of green marble, without the fmallefi: variety or fpot of other colour in it.
Through this whole valley, to-day, we had feen the bodies of the Tucororv who had follow- ed Mahomet Towafh, and been fcattered by the Bifhareen, and left to perifh with thirfi: there. None of them, however, as far as we could ob- ferve, had ever reached this well. In the water we found a bird of the duck kind called Teal, or Widgeon. The Turk Ifmael was preparing to flioot at it with his blunderbufs, but I defired him
to
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 359
to refrain, being willing, by its flight, to endea- vour to judge fomething of th^ nearnefs of the Nile. We raifed it therefore by fudden repeated cries, which method was likely to make it feek its home ftraight, and abandon a place it muft have been a ilranger to. The bird flew ftraight.^^ weft, riiing as he flew, a fure proof his journey was a long one, till at laft, being very high and at a diftance, he vaniflied from our fight, with- out defcending or feeking to approach the earth; from which I drew an unpleafant inference that we were yet far from the Nile, as was really the cafe*
Here we threw away the brackilh water that remained in our girbas, and filled them with the wholefome element drawn from this pool of Umgwat. I could not help reproaching Idris with the inaccuracy of the information he had pretend- ed to give us the day before, that no party above ten men could meet us at any of thefe wells, as none of them could fupply water for more ; whereas in this pool there was certainly enough of excellent water to ferve a whole tribe of i^rabs for a month. He had little to fay, further than that Haimer, though near, was a fcanty well, and perhaps we fhould not find water there at all. He trufled, however, if our people would take heart, we were out of all danger from Arabs, or any thing elfe.
At a quarter pail three we left the well, and continued along a fandy valley, which is called Waadi Umgwat. This night it was told me that
Georo-is
36o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Georgis, and the Turk Ifmael, were both fo ill, and fo defponding, that they had refolved to pur- fue the journey no farther, but fubmit to their defliny, as they called it, and flay behind and die. It was with the utmoft difficulty I could get them to lay afide this rcfolution, and the next morning I promifed they fliould ride by turns upon one of the camels, a thing that none of us had yet at- tempted. They had, indeed, often deiired me to do fo, but I well knew, if I had fet them that ex- ample, beiides deftroying the camels, it would have had the very woril effect upon their daf- tardly fpirits ; and, indeed, we very foon faw the bad effects of this humane confideration for the two invalids.
On the 24th, at half paft fix in the morning we hft Umgwat, following the windings of fandy valleys between flony hills. At half pafl nine wc found Mahomet Aga's horfe dead. The poor creature feemed, without a guide, to have fol- lowed exactly enough the tracl of the wells and way to Egypt, and had furvived all his fellow- travellers. At eleven o'clock we came to fome plains of loofe, moving fand, and faw fome pil- lars in motion, which had not wind to fuflain them for any time, and which gave us, therefore, little concern. At one we alighted near the well Mour, which was to the N. E. of us. At four we left the well Mour : At forty minutes after four pafled the well itfelf, which was then dry ; and at a quarter paft fix we found a dead man, whofe corpfe was quite dry, and had been fo a
conflderable
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE- 361
confiderable time. At feven o'clock in the even- ing we alighted at El Haimer, where are the two wells in a large plain of fand. The water is good. There is another well to the weft of us, but it is bitter and faltifh, though more abundant than ei- ther of the other two, which, by filling our Ikins, we had feveral times drained.
On the 25th, at half paft feven in the morn- ing we left the well El Maimer, and at ten o'clock alighted among fome acacia-trees, our camels hav- ing ate nothing all night, except the dry bitter roots of that drug, the fenna. While we were attending the camels, and refting ourfelves on the grafs, we were furprifed at the appearance of a troop of Arabs all upon camels, who looked like a caravan, each camel having a fmall loading be- hind him. They had two gentle afcents before they could arrive at the place where we were. The road is between two fandy hills, at the back of which our camels were feeding in a wood ; and near the road was the well El Maimer, where our Ikins were lying full of water. It was neceffary then to underftand one another before we allow- ed them to pafs between the fandy hills. Upon the firft alarm, my people all repaired to me, bringing their arms in their hands, as well thofe that they carried upon them, as the fpare arms, all of which were primed and charged.
The firft queftion was, what to do with the Bi- Ihareen ? None of us had any fufpicion of him. We unchained him from the Barbarin, and faf- tened his other hand, then gave him to the Tu-
corory.
362 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
corory, and made them ftand behind to increafe the appearance of our number. 1 then advanced to the edsfe of the hiil, and cried out with a loud voice, '^ Stop! for you cannot pafs here." Whe- ther they undcrllood it 1 do not know, but they il:ili pcriiiled in mounting the hill. I again cried, ihewing my firelock, "Advance a ftep farther and I'll fire." After a fhort paufe they all difmount- ed from their camels, and one of them, with his iance in his hand, came forward till within twen- ty yards, upon which Idris immediately knew them, and faid, they were Ababde. " Ababde or not, faid I, they are feventeen men, and Arabs, and I am not of a difpofition, without further furety, to put myfelf in their hands as Mahomet Aga did. I am fure they are perfectly in our pow* er now, as long as they ftand where they are.** Idris then told me that he was married to one of the Ababde of Shekh Ammer, and he would go and get a fure word from them. Tell them from me, faid I, that I, too, am the friend of Nim- mer their Shekh, and his two fons, and of Shekh Hammam of Furfhout \ that I am going into Egypt, have been followed by the Bilhareen, and truft nobody ; have twenty men armed with fire- locks, and will do them no harm, provided they confent to pafs, one by one, and give a man for a hoftage.
Idris, without arms, having joined the man who had advanced towards us, went dowm with him to the body of fi:rangers, and the treaty w^as foon agreed to. Two of the principal men among
them
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 3(^3
them approaching me without lances, and the compliment of peace, " Salam Alicum ! and Ali- cum Salam V* was given and returned by both lides. They feemed, however, ftartled at feeing the Bifhareen with both his hands chained ; but I told them, that had no regard to them, and de- ilred Idris to order their camels to go on ; and one of the Barbarins in the meantime brought them a gourd full of water, and bread, for eating toge- ther is like pledging your faith. They had not heard of the fate of Mahomet Aga, and feemed very ill-pleafed at it, faying, that Abou Eertran was a thief and a murderer. All the camels being paii:, 1 aflced them whither they were going ? They faid to Atbieh, weft of Terfowey^ to gather fenna for the government of Cairo. I would very fain have had them to fell or exchange with me a couple of camels. They faid theirs were not ftrong ; that before they could reach home they would be m>ucli in the fame condition with our own ; that they were obliged to load them very heavily, as indeed the bags they had behind them to carry the fen- na feemed to indicate their profit was but fmall, fo that the death of one camel was a moil feri- ous lofs.
I thought myfelf obliged in humanity to intro- duce our prifoner to the two Ababde that had re- mained with us. They faid, they intended to take water at Terfowey, and we told them brief- ly the accident by which v/e came in company with the Bilhareen. They, on the contrary, thought that we had been a party of foldiers
from
364 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
from Aflbuan who apprehended the Arab. Irh- mediately after which they converfed in the lan- guage of Beja, which is that of the Habab, Sua- kem, and Mafuah. I told them plainly, that, though I knew that language, I would not fuffer them to fpeak any but Arabic, underftood by us all. They immediately complied, and then in- quired about the pofition of Abou Bertran and his tribe of Bilhareen. This, too, I would not fuffer the Arab to inform them of, but charged them, as he did alfo, to tell his wives that he was well, and ate and drank as he had done, and was within two days of arriving at Affouan, whence he Ihouid be returned to them with the rewards promifed. I then defired him to lay a lance in a manner that the point fliould be towards Syene, which they accordingly did, and with a long nee- dle of 1 2 inches in a brafs box, having an arch of a few degrees marked on it, I, with the utmoft attention, took the direction from Haimer to Syene N. N. W. or more northerly. I would ve- ry willingly have had it in my power to have made an obfervation of latitude, but noon was paft ; 1 contented myfelf, therefore, with keep- ing my route as diflinclly as poflible till the evening.
At 40 minutes paft one o'clock we left Haimer, and our friends, the Ababde, continued their route, after giving us great praife, as well for our civility, as our keeping the watch like men, as they expreiTed it. At half pafl eight we alight- ed at Abou Ferege, a place where there was very
ittle
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. ^6^
little verdure of any kind. Here, for the firft time on our journey, we met with a cloudy iky, which effeclually difappointed my obfervation of latitude ; but every noon and night I defcribed, in a rough manner, my courfe through the day, carrying always a compafs, with a needle about five inches radius, round my neck, by a lace, and refdng in my pocket. I thus found that we had kept the line directly upon Syene, which the Ababde Arab had fhewed us.
On the 26th, at half after fix in the morning we fet out from Abou Ferege, continuing near- ly in the fame direction upon Syene till eleven o'clock, when, for the purpofe of obfervation on- ly, I alighted at a place called Abou Heregi, with- out water, grafs, or food for our camels. We were exceedingly averfe to exertions, and be- came fo weak and fpiritlefs, that it was not pof- iible to prevail upon our people to take the large quadrant' out of its cheft to put it together, and prepare it for obfervation. I therefore took a Hadley's quadrant, with a mixture 1 had made, which ferved nie better than quick-filver, and made my obfervation by reflection at Abou He- regi, and found it in lat. 23*^, from which 1 in- ferred, with fome degree of comfort to m.yfelf, that the longitude of Syene in the French maps is ill laid down, and that we were now in the di- rection upon Syene, had no wefting to run down, but the journey muft finiih in a very few days.
At two o'clock in the afternoon we left Abou Heregi, and at four had an unexpe6led entertain- ment.
366 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
irient, which fiiled our hearts with a very fliort- lived joy. The whole plain before us feemed thick-covered with green grafs and yellow dai- iies. We advanced to the place with as much ipeed as our lame condition would fufFer us, but how terrible was our difappointment, when we found the whole of that verdure to confill in fen- na and coloquintida, the moil naufcous of plants, and moft incapable of being fubftituted as food for man or beaft. At nine o'clock in the evening we alia'hted at SafKeha, which is a ridg-e of cragj- gy mountains to the S. E. and N. W. The night here was immoderately cold, and the wind north. We were now very near a criiis, one way or the other. Our bread was confumed, fo that we had not fufficient for one day. more; and though we had camels fieili, yet, by living fo long on bread and v/ater, an invincible repugnance arofe either to fm;ell or tafte it. As our camels were at their lail gafp, we had taken fo fparingly of water, that, when we came to divide it, v/e found it infuffici- ent for our neceiHties, if Syene was even fo near as we conceived it to be.
Georgis had loR one eye, and w^as nearly bHnd in the other. Ifmael and he had both become fo ftiff by being carried, that they could not bear to fet their feet to the ground ; and I may fay for myfelf, that, though I had fupported the wounds in my feet with a patience very uncommon, yet they were arrived at that height as to be perfeclly intolerable, and, as I apprehended, on the point of mortification. The bandage, w^hich* the Bi-
ihareen
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 367
fhareen had tied about the hollow of my foot, was now almofl hidden by the flefh fweliing over it. Three large wounds on the right foot, and two on the left, continued open, whence a quantity of lymph oozed continually. It was alfo with the utmoft difficulty we could get out the rag, by cutting it to fhreds with fciffars. The tale is both unpleafant and irkfome. Two foles which re- .niained from our fandals, the upper leathers of A^hich had gone to pieces in the fand near Gooz, were tied with a cotton cloth very adroitly by the Bifhareen. But it feemed impoffible that I could walk further, even with this affiftance, and there- fore we determined to throw away the quadrant, telefcopes, and time-keeper, and fave our lives, by riding the camels alternately. But Providence had already decreed that welhould not terminate this dangerous journey by our own ordinary fore- fi2:ht and contrivance, but owe it entirely to his vrfible fupport and interpofition.
On the 27th, at half pail five in the morning we attempted to raife our camels at Saffieha by every method that we could devife, but all in vain, only one of them could get upon his legs, and that one did not fland two minutes till he kneeled down, and could never be raifed after- wards. This the Arabs all declared to be the effecls of cold ; and yet Fahrenheit's thermome- ter, an hour before day, flood at 42"". Every way we turned ourfelves death now flared us in the face. We had neither time nor ftrtngth to wafte, nor provifions to fupport us. We then took the
fmalL
368 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fmall fkins that had contained our water, and fill- ed them as far as we thought a man could carry them with eafe ; but after all thefe fhifts, there "was not enough to ferve us three days, at which I had eftimated our journey to Syene, which ftill however was uncertain. Finding, therefore, the camels would not rife, we killed two of them, and took fo much flefh as might ferve for the deficiency of bread, and, from the ftomach of each of the camels, got about four gallons of wa- ter, which the Bifhareen Arab managed with great dexterity. It is known to people conver- fant with natural hiftory, that the camel has within him, refer voirs in which he can preferve drink for any number of days he is ufed to. In thofe caravans, of long courfe, which come from the Niger acrofs the defert of Selima, it is faid that each camel, by drinking, lays in a llore of water that will fupport him for forty days. I will by no means be a voucher of this account, which carries with it an air of exaggeration ; but fourteen or fixteen days, it is well known, an ordinary camel will live, though he hath no freih fupply of water. When he chews the cud, or when he eats, you. conflantly fee him throw^, from this repofitory, mouthfulls of water to di- lute his food ; and nature has contrived this vef- fel with fuch properties, that the water within it never putrifies, nor turns unwholefbme. It was indeed vapid, and of a bluiili caft, but had nei- ther talle nor fmell.
The
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 369
The fmall remains of our miferable ftock of black bread and dirty water, the only fupport we had hitherto lived on amidft the burning fands, and our fpirits like wife, were exhaufted by an uncertainty of our journey's end. We were fur- rounded among thofe terrible and unufual phae- nomena of nature which Providence in mercy to the weaknefs of his creatures, has concealed far from their (isfht in deferts almoft inaccellible to
o
them. Nothing but death was before our eyes ; and, in thefe terrible moments of pain, funering, and defpair, honour, infcead of relieving me, fug- gefted flill what was to be an augmentation to my misfortune ; the feeling this produced fell dired- ly upon me alone, and every other individual of the company was unconfcious of it.
The drawings made at Palmyra and Eaalbec for the king, were, in many parts of them, not ad- vanced farther than the outlines, which I had carried with me, that, if leifure or confinement Ihould happen, I might finiih them during my travels in cafe of failure of other employment, fo far at leaft, that, on my return through Italy, they might be in a ftate of receiving further im- provement, which might carry them to that per- feclion 1 have iince been enabled to conduct them. Thefe wqvq all to be thrown away, with other not lefs valuable papers, and, with my quadrant, telefcopes, and time-keeper, abandoned to the rude and ignorant hands of robbers, or to be bu- ried in the fands. Every memorandum, every defcription, iketch, or obfervation fince I depart-
VoL. V. B b ed
370 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ed from Badjoura and pafTcd the defer t to Coffeir, till I reached the prefent Ipot, were left in an un- digefled heap, with our carrion-camels, at Saf- fieha, while there remained with me, in lieu of all my memoranda, but this mournful confidera- tion, that I was now to maintain the reality of thefe my tedious perils, with thofe who either did, or might affed, from malice and envy, to doubt my veracity upon my ipfe dixit alone, or abandon the reputation of the travels which I had made with fo mAich courage, labour, danger, and dif- ficulty, and which had been confidered as dti- perate and impracticable to accomplilh for more than 2000 years.
I would be underftood not to mean by this, that my thoughts were at fuch a time in the leaft difturbed with any refleclion on the paltry lies that might be propagated in malignant circles, which has each its idol, and who, meeting, as they fay, for the advancement of learning, em- ploy themfelves in blading the fame of thofe who rnuft be allovv^ed to have furpaifed them in every circumftance of intrepidity, forethought, and fair atchievement. The cenfure of thefe lion-faced and chicken-hearted critics nev;er entered as an ingre- dient in my forrows on that occaiion in the fad- nefs of my heart ; if I had not poiTelTed a fhare of fpirit enough to defpife thefe, the fmallefl trou- ble that occurred in my travels muft have over- come a mind fo feebly armed. My forrows were of another kind, that I ihould, of courfe, be de- prived of a confiderable part of an offering I
meant
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 371
meant as a mark of duty to my fovereign, that, with thofe that knew and efteemed me, I fhould be obliged to run in debt for the credit of a whole narrative of circumftances, which ought, from their importance to hiftory and geography, to have a better foundation than the mere memory of any man, confidering the time and variety of events which they embraced ; and, above all, I m^ay be allowed to fay, I felt for my country, that chance alone, in this age of difcovery, had rob- bed her of the faireft srarland of this kind fhe ever was to wear, which all her fleets, full of heroes and m.en of fcience, in all the oceans they might be deftined to explore, were incapable of repla- cing upon her brow. Thefe fad refiedlions were mine, and confined to myfelf. Luckily my com- panions were no iharers in them ; they had al- ready, in their own fufferings, much more than their little ftock of fortitude, philofophy, or edu- cation enabled them to bear.
About three o'clock in the afternoon of the 27th we faw two kites, or what are called Had- daya, very numerous in Egypt ; about a quarter of an hour afterwards, another of the fame fort, known to be carrion-birds, probably going in fearch of the dead camels. I could not conceal my joy at what i regarded as a happy omen. We went five hours and a half this day, and at night came to Waadi el Arab, where are the firil trees we had feen fince we left El Haimer.
On the 28th, at halt paft feven in the morning we left Waadi el Arab, and entered into a nar-
B b 2 row
372 T'RAVELS TO DISCOVER
row defile, with rugged, but not high mountain? on each fide. About twelve o'clock we came to a few trees in the bed of a torrent. Ill as I was, after refreftiing myfelf with my laft bread and water, I fet out in the afternoon to gain a rifing ground, that I might fee, if poffible, what was to the weil-ward ; for the mountains feemed now rocky and high like thofe of the Kennoufs near Syene. I arrived, with great difficulty and pain, on the top of a moderate hill, but was exceeding- ly difappointed at not feeing the river to the weft- ward ; however, the vicinity of the Nile was ve- ry evident, by the high, uniform mountains that confine its torrent when it comes out of Nubia^ The evening was ftili, fo that fitting down and covering my eyes with my hands, not to be di- verted by external objects, I liftehed and heard diftinclly the noife of waters, which I fuppofed to be the cataracl, but it feemed to the fouth- ward of us, as if we had palled it. I was, how- ever, fully fatisfied that it was the Nile.
Juft before I left my fi:ation the fun was alrea- dy low, when I faw a flock of birds, which, in Syria, where they are plenty, are called the Cow Bird. In Egypt they are alfo numerous upon the Nile, but I do not know their name. They are a fmall fpecies of the heron, about a third of the fize of the common one, milk-white, having a tuft of flefh-coloured feathers upon their breaft, of a coarfer, ftronger, and more hairy-like qua- lity than the Ihorter feathers. A flock of thefe birds was fiying in a firaight line, very low, evi- dently
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 373
dently feeking food along the banks of the river. It was not an hour for birds to go far from their home, nor does this bird feed at a dillance from its accuftomed haunt at any time. Satisfied then that, continuing our courfe N. W. we fliould ar« rive at or below Syene, I returned to join my companions, but it was now dark, and I found Idris and the Barbarins in fome pain, endeavour- ing to trace me by my footileps.
I communicated to them this joyful news, which was confirmed by Idris, though he did not himfelf know the juft diftance from this place (Abou Seielat) as his ufual way had been to Da- roo, not to AfTouan, which he did not choofe to approach, for fear of the vexations from the Turk- ilh garrifon. A cry of joy followed this annun- ciation. Chriftians, Moors, and Turks, all burft into floods of tears, kifTmg and embracing one another, and thanking God for his mercy in this deliverance, and unanimoufly in token of their gratitude, and acknowledgment of my conftant attention to them in the whole of this long jour- ney ; faluting me with the name of Abou Ferege, Father Forefight, the only reward it was in their power to give.
On the 29th, at feven o'clock in the morning we left Abou Seielat ; about nine, we faw the palm trees at AiTouan, and a quarter before ten arrived in a grove of palm-trees on the north of that city,
CHAP.
374 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
HAP. XIIL
Kind reception at Ajfouan — Arrival at Cairo — Tranf- adions with the Bey there^-Land c^t Marfeilles.
VV I T H O U T congratulating one another on their efcape and fafe arrival, as they had the night before at Abou Seielatj my companions with one accord ran to the Nile to drink ; though they had already feen, in the courfe of the journey, two or three tragical inilances, the confequences of intemperance in drinking water. I fat myfelf down under the ihade of the palm-trees, to re- collect myfelf. It was very hot, and I fell into a profound ileep. But Hagi Ifmael, who was nei- ther fleepy nor thirfty, but exceedingly hungry, had gone into the town in fearch of fomebody that would give him food. He was not gone far before his green turban and ragged appearance ftruck fome brethren janizaries, who met him ; one of whom afked him the reafon of his being there, and whence he came ? Ifmael, in a violent paffion, and broken Arabic, faid, that he was a
janizary
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE 375
janizary of Cairo, was laft come from hell, where there was not one devil, but thoufands, from a country of Kafrs that called themfelves Mufful- men ; that he had walked through a defert where the earth was on fire and the wind was flame, and in fear of dying every day with thirfl and hunger.
The foldier who heard him talk in this dis- jointed, raving manner, deiired him to go with him to the Aga. This was the very thing that Ifmael wanted. He only deiired time to acquaint his companions. " Have you companions, fays the foldier, from fuch a country ?" — " Com-pa- nions ! fays Ifmael ; what the devil ! do you ima- gine I came this journey alone ?"— " If the jour- ney, fays the man, is fuch as you dcfcribe it, I do not think many would go with you ; well, go along with my companions, and I will feek yours, but how ihall I find them ?" — " Go, fays Ifmael, to the palm-trees, and when you find the talleft man you ever faw in your life, more rag- ged and dirty than I am, call him Yagoube, and delire him to come along with you to the Aga."
The foldier accordingly found me ftill fitting at the root of the palm-tree. The fervants Vv^ho had now fatisfied their thirfl, and were uncertain what was next to be done, were fitting together at fome diftance from me. They began to feel their own wearinefs, and were inclined to leave me to a little repofe, which they hoped might enable me to overcome mine. For my own part, a dull- pefs and infenfibility, an univerfal relaxation of
fpirits ,
376 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
fpirits which I cannot defcribe, a kind of llupor, or palfy of the mind, had overtaken me, ahuofl' to a deprivation of undcrftanding. I found in myfelf a kind of ftupidity, and want of power to reflecl upon what had paiied. I feemed to be, as if awakened from a dream when the fenfes are yet half aileep, and we only begin to doubt whether wliat has before paffed in thoughts is real or not. The dangers that I was juft now delivered from made no impreffion upon my mind, and what more and more convinces me I was for a time not in my perfeA fenfes, is, that I found in myfelf a hard-heartednefs, without the leaft inclination to be thankful for that fignal deliverance w hich had juft: now experienced.
From this ftupor I was awakened by the arri- val of the foldier, who cried out to us at fome diftance, " You muft come to the Aga to the caftle, all of you, as faft as you can, the Turk is gone before you." " It will not be very faft, if we even fhould do that, faid I ; the Turk has ridden tv»^o days on a camel, and I have walked on foot, and do not know at prefent if I<:an walk at all.'' 1 endeavoured, at the fame time, to rife and ftand upright, which I did not fucceed in, after feveral attempts, without great pain and dif- ficulty. I obferved the foldier was in a prodigi- ous aftoniiliment at my appearance, habit, and above all, at my diftrefs. " We fliall get people in town, fays he, to aflift you, and if you can- not walk, the Aga will fend you a mule.'^
The
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 377
The Turk and the Greeks were cloathed much in the fame manner. Ifmael and Michael had in their hands two monftrous blunderbulTes* The whole town crowded after us while we v^alked to the callle, and could not fatiate thernfelves with admiring a company of fuch an extraordinary ap- pearance. The i\ga was itruck dumb upon our entering the room, and told m.e afterwards, that he thought me a full foot- taller than any man he had ever feen in his life. I faw he was embar- railed whether he ihould denre me to fit down or not, fo that I faved him the deliberation, by fay- ing, immediately after fainting him, " Sir, you will excufe me, I muii: fit." He bowed, and made a iign, complacently alking ir.e, "Are you a Turk? Are you a Muillilman?" " 1 am not a Turk, faid I,- nor. am I a Muilulman ; I am an Englifhman, and bearer of the grand fignior's firman to all his fab- jedls, and of letters from the regency of Cairo, and from the Porte of Janizaries, to you." " Caz Dangli, fays Ifmael, they are the fame as Turks, they came firft from Anatolia, I have been at the place." Upon my mentioning the grand lignior, the Aga got upon his feet, and, without heeding Ifmael's fpeech, faid, very politely, " Do you choofe to have your fervants fit ?" " In fuch a difailrous journey as I have made, Sir, faid I, our fervants muft be our companions ; befides, they have a ftrong excufe for fitting, neither they nor I have a foot to fi:and upon." r Aga, " Where are thofe letters and firman ?/' Ta* '^ Where they may be now I know not, we
left
378 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
left them at Saffieha with all the reft of our bag- gage ; our camels died^ our provifions and water were exhaufted, we therefore left every thing be- hind us, and made this one effort to fave our lives. It is the firft favour I am to aik of you, when I fhall have refled myfelf two days, to allow me to get frefli camels, to go in fearch of my letters and baggage." Aga. " God forbid I fliould ever fuf- fer you to do fo mad an aclion. You are come hither by a thoufand miracles, and after this, will you tempt God and go back ? we fhall take it for granted what thofe papers contain. You will have no need of a firman between this and Cairo." Ta, " We fhall leave it upon that foot- ing for the prefent, allow me only to fay, I am a fervant of the king of England, travelling, by his order, and for my own and my countrymen's in- formation ; that I had rather rifk my life twenty times, than lofe the papers I have left in the de- fert." Aga. " Go in peace, and eat and lleep- Carry them, fays he, fpeaking to his attendants, to the houfe of the Schourbatchie." Thus ended our firll interview with the Aga, who put us in pofTeflion of a very good houfe, and it happened to be the very man to whom I was recommend- ed by my correfpondents at Cairo when I was firft here, who had abfolutely forgotten, but foon remembered me, as did many others, but my old friend the Aga had been changed, and was then at Cairo.
We were not Ions: arrived before we received from the Aga about fifty loaves of fine wheat
brcadj
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 379
bread, and feveral larsce difhes of dred meat. But the fmell of thefe laft no fooner reached me than I fainted upon the floor. I made feveral trials afterwards, with no better fuccefs, for the firft two days, nor could I reconcile myfelf to any fort of food but toafled bread and coffee. My fervants had none of thefe qualms, for they partook large- ly and greedily of the Aga's bounty.
I had kept the houfe five or fix days after my arrival, during which I correfponded with the Aga only by meffages, and from my fervant who had palTed between us he had learned the whole of our adventures. I then went to the caftle for an audience, and intreated the Aga that he would procure fix or eight camels to mount m.y men up- on, and bring my baggage from Saffieha. He gave a fi:art at the firfi: requefl:, and would not by any means hear of that propofal ; he called it tempting God, and aflured me 1 fhould be cut off by the very men that had murdered Mahomet Aga ; that, having feen the cafes and things w^hich I had thrown away at Umarack, they would follow my tract on to Saffieha, would have taken every thing that I had left, and would be now purfuing me up to the gates of AlTouan. All this was extremely probable, but it w^as not to fuch reafoning that I could be a convert. I had infinuated that the wellfare of mankind was concerned in the recovery of thofe papers ; that there v/as among them recipes, which, if they did not totally prevent the plague, and the fmall-pox, vvould at leafi: greatly lelTen their violence and du- ration.
38o TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
ration. This, and perhaps a more forcible in- linuation, that he ihould not be without a re- compence for any trouble that he gave himfelf on mj account, brought him at laft to confent to my requeft, and we arranged our expedition ac- cordingly.
Our firft itep was to fend for Idris and the Arab from Daroo, for neither of them would enter the town wdth us, for fear fome ftory fiiouid be trumped up againft them regarding Mahomet Towafh's murder, which w^ould not have failed to have been the cafe had not we been with them ; but upon the Aga fending a man of con- fidence for them, they both came without delay, and were lodged in my houfe, under my pro- tection.
The night following, every thing being ready, we fet out after it was dark from the caftle^ all upon dromedaries. The gates of the town were open for us, and wxre immediately Ihut upon our pailing through them* ; the Aga fearing his own people as much as the BiCiareen ; and faying al- ways, by way of proverb, " Every body is an enemy in the defert." The Aga had fent four fervants belonging to his ftables to accompany us ; active, lively, and good-humoured fellows. Gur people too, were all recruited. Ifmael, and blind Georgis, were left to take care of the houfe in my abience. About twelve o'clock we got into a valley, and hid ourfelves in the loweft part of it, under a bank, for the night was exceeding cold ; but we had fpirits with us, which we drank with
moderation .
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 381
moderation. We there refreftied our beafts about half an hour, and again ftopt in a valley among trees. I was afraid that we had palTed our baggage in the dark, as none of us were perfectly fure of the place; but as foon^as light came, we recovered our tract as frefli and entire as when we n)2ide it. After having gone about half an hour in our former footfteps, we .had the unfpeakable fatisfaclion to find our quadrant and whole bag- gage ; and by them the bodies of our fiaughtered camels, a fmall part of one of them having been torn by the haddaya, or kite.
It was agreed v/e fhould not flay here, but load and depart immediately ; this was done in an in- -ftant ; five camels eafily carried the loads, with a man upon them befides ; and there were three more camels, upon which we rode by turns." We made a brifk retreat from Saffieha to Syene, which is about forty mxiles. At a little paft four in the afternoon we entered the town again, without any accident whatever, or without having feen one man in our journey.
Here then we were to clofe our travels through the defert, by difcharging the debts contra6ied in it. We had now^ got out credit and letters, which fur^iihed us with money. I began by recpm- penfing Idris Welled Hamran, the Hybeer, for his faithful fervices. The next thing was to keep jour faith with our prifoner. I had made Idris chufe him a good camel, cloathed him anew, and gave him dreifes for his two wives, with a load of dora. I then difpatched him with the /-ga'spro-
• • teclion..
382 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
teclion, wondering what men we were, who, without compulfion or fubterfuge, kept our words fo exaclly. Though rich beyond his hopes, and fo very lately our enemy, the poor fellow, with tears in his eyes, declared, if I would per- mit hun. he would only go back and deliver up what I had given him to his family, and return to me at Syene, and follow m.e as my fervant wherever I iliould go.
Although we had wherewithal to have bought proper dreifes, I thought it better to do this when we ihould come to Cairo. We got each of us a coarfe barracan, for cieanlinefs only, and a pair of trowfers. 1 furnifhed Ifmael with a green tur- ban, to give us fome weight with the vulgar during our voyage down the Nile. I then went to my friend the Aga, to concert the meafures that remained necelTary for leaving AiTouan and beginning 'our journey. He teftihed the greateft joy at feeing us again. He had been informed of our whole expedition by his fervants the night before, and praifed us, in the prefence of his at- tenciants, for our alacrity, fteadinefs, and courage under the great fatigues of travelling. Ifmael had told him of the trees and plants which I painted, and he expreiied great curiofity to fee them when I fhould find it convenient. From the known difpoiition of thofe people, that what they dedre mud be granted inftantly, I aiked him whether he was at ieifure or not to fee them ? He faid, '' By all means ; it was a good time.'*
I then
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 385
I then fent Michael my fervant for a book of trees, and one of fifhes.
In the interim arrived one of their prieils, or
an Imam, who are efteemed the mofl learned of
their clergy. Ill-humour and ill-breeding is the
characleriilic of violent people of all religions ; a
Chriftian fanatic is not one bit more charitable
towards thofe that differ from him than a Turkifh
faint ; the g^reatefl difference between them is the
turban. Though I was the only reafon of his
coming there at that time, he paiTed m.e with the
mofl contemptible indifference, his eyes half ihut
and lifted up to heaven, full of that exalted pride
by which his great mailer fell from happinefs.
" I wifh to know, (fays he to the Aga, regardlefs
of me) if that Kafr faw any thing of Mahomiet
Towafh in the defert.'* The Aga afked me, I
faw, with fome degree of Ihame, and I anAvered
him : — " I faw Mahomet Towafh alive at Chendi,
richly cloathed as if he had been at Mecca. He
had tw^elve or fourteen men armed wath firelocks,
and about fourfcore Tucorory, each with a lance
in his hand, to whom he was to give food and
water .in croffmg the defert. There were three
Hybeers, all BiOiareen, who had come from
Suakem with the caravan, and were carrying back
fenna to the neighbourhood of Syeae. I ofiered
to join company with them ; and though one
Hybeer w^as enough for him, yet, to diftrefs me
as being a Chriftian, he took the whole three
along with him. In vain Sittina, Wed Ageeb*s
iifler, and Wed el Faal's mother, defired him to
leave
3^4 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
leave one of the Bifhareen Hybeers for me, or ra- ther to join our companies together, for the Bi- fliareen were not to be trufted. Contrary to the delire of the chief of the Arabs, he took away the three Rybeers, to difappoint me ; he found them three murderers, and left me the only honeft man whom he did not know. God punifhed the pre- fum.ption and pride of which he was full, juil as this Moullah, w^ho lall came in,. and fits before you, appears to be.'^
The Aga then alked me, if I faw him after- wards ? " You know, I fuppofe, the fi:ory. One of the three Hybeers went to Abou Bertran, a principal Shekh of the Bifhareen, and prepared a party to meet them on the road at the next fta-' tion, while the other two Hybeers, their guides, took care to deceive him by lies, and carried him directly upon the road v^^here the plot was laid. About twenty men on camels, armed with lances, and as many young men on foot, with fwords came to meet him., and thofe upon camels made their beafts kneel down at fome diilance from him., as out of refpeci: coming to kifs his hands, as of a holy perfon belonging to the Caaba, their fancluary at Mecca.
" The vain, imprudent man difmounted from his cam.el to give them a more eafy opportunity of paying him their relpeds, and when one of themi held him by the hand in token of friendiliip, another cut him acrofs the hams with a broad- fword, and a third run him throuoch the back with a lance. He endeavoured to put Lis hands to his
piftols.
THfc SOURCE OF THE NILE.' 3§^
piftols, but it was too late. They afterwards per- fuaded his fervants, who had fire-arms in their hands, and, like fools, did not ufe them, to ca- pitulate ; and, after they had difarmed them, they carried them afide and murdered them alfo, then took away all the water and camels, and left the Tucorory to die with thirfl:. You aiked me when I faw him after his leaving Chendi ? I tell you it was at a ftation of the Biihareen, two hours be- fore you come to Umarack ; his body lay upon the fand v/ithered and dried, but not corrupted ; his hough of the right leg, and back-finew of the left, juft above the heel, were cut afunder by a fword. The wounds through his body were ap- parent. The lance, I apprehend, had fome crooks below the head of it, as is their cufiom, becaufe a coniiderable quantity of his bowels were drawn out at the back. He had two w^ounds upon his head, which I fuppofe were given him after he was dead, for they had cut through the ikull entirely, and any one of them would have been mortal in a moment. Ifmael and the Barbarin threw fand over him. For miV part, I paid no fort of refpecb to the carcafe of a man, who, when living, had fhewed fo little for m.y prefer vation. We went to the right, and followed fome footfteps ; vv^e faw three men dead, all big and corpulent ; they were all thrufl throusrh Vvdth three lances ; each of them had his throat cut, and one his jaw ' broken.
" All the next day the road was ftrewed with the bodies of the lucorory, and ths day aficr, at
Vol. V. C c nine
^^6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
nine o'clock in the morning, we found his horfc dead ; the day following we found dead bodies of people, who had perifhed with third, fcattered here and there like the trad of a purfuit after a battle ; their dry bottles, made of gourds, were grafped in their hands ^ and fome held them to their mouths as if fucking them, God, as I fay, punilhed this man, by allowing his pride and pre- iumption to blind him ; for, had we joined our companies, there could not have been a better place imagined to have fought the Biihareen than that fpot, had they dared to attack, which is not probable. It was a narrow, deep, fandy ftrait, and ruo'eed on each fide of it. We could have put our camels, with our water, in perfect fecu- titv behind us, while our fire-arms, fafely from the rock, would, with the firfl difcharge, have deflroyed the beft men among them, and fcattered the herd of them into the defert. The Tucorory would have feized their camels and water, of which they had but a fmall quantity, or w^e fhould have Hiot the fkins through, or the Aga's horfe would have overtaken them. In either cafe, as they Vv'Cre tw^o days journey from Abou Bertran, the greateft part of them would have died with third: ; and if they had choien to follow us, which after this rude treatment they would not have done, they could nevef have reached us till we had got out of their territory into thofe of the Ababde, where they were as much pLrangers, and in as great danger as we, and the wells not ca- pable of filling their girbas, fo that they would
liave
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 387
have brought themfelves both into diilrefs and difpute. This is all that I know of Mahomet Towafh."
The Aga faid to himfelf, " Ullah Akbar ;" and feveral of the company m.ade their private ejacu- lations. The Imam had not yet fpoke, but ad- dreffing himfelf to the Aga, " True it is, fays he, God is great, and does what feems to him beft ; or who would have thought that a fervant of the Caaba fhould be forfaken, v/hile Kafrs like them, a thoufand of them not of the account of one hair of that man*s head, were protected by him, and arrived fafe and unhurt I"
I was exceedingly angry, but weak in health and fpirits ; beiides, I defpifed the Imam heartily, and was determined to be filent. But directly ad- dreffing himfelf to me, which he hitherto had not done, " I wonder, fays he, how a Kafr like you, a man of no more worth than the dull under a muffulman's feet, fhould dare to wear a white turban^ which none are permitted to do but true believers, and men of coniideration in learninp-, or in the law !" I could hold no longer. " Kafr! faid I, do you call me ? You are a Kafr yourfelf. I woriliip God as you do, and Jefus Chrift, whom Mahomet calls Rouch Ullah, the Spirit of God. Kafrs Vv^orfnip Hones and trees, are iil-bred, and rude in manners, fuch as you are. Sir, £iid I to the Aga, I demand of you if the grand iignior, whofe firman you have in your hand, when writ- ing of me, calls me Kafr ? Does Ali Eey, and the Porte of Janizaries, ufe fach opprobrious ex-
C c 2 prclTions ?
3SS TRAVELS I'G DISCOVER
prellions ? If they do not, you fufFer me to be iiffronted in contempt of their orders, in a fortrefs which you command in the grand fignior's name, which is not to your credit either as a muffulman or a foldier."— '^ He is right, fays an old man, who feemed to be a fecretary. '' Moullah, fays the Aga, I did not expect this from you ; I did not think you could be fo abiurd as to aili any man, returning from fo dangerous a journey as his, the reafon of the colour of his turban." — " I do not refer that to his difcretion, faid I, there is my firman ; I infift upon its being read at the divan, and I will afterwards drefs my head and my body in any colour that is permitted me there- in, and that I know is every fort of colour*, and I infill that my firman may be read in the Divan/'
" Moullah, fays Hagi Ifmael, addreihng him- felf to the Imam, who had twice attempted to fpeak but could not get permiflion, you put me in mind of thefe liars and thieves at Teawa ; all their turbans w^ere white or green ; they call themfeives muffulmen, and ilieraffe, and men of learning like you ; but I fwear, greater Kafrs than they v/ere never in hell. I wiih you may not be fomething of that kind. Hagi Ifmael was Handing behind. He had a barracan like us, a red cap and no turban, and the Moullah, I believe, did not knovv-- he v/as a Turk, and flill lefs that he was a iherriife ; I fancy he rather took him for a
* It is always the part of a firman from the Poitc, that the bearer is at liberty to wear what colour, drefs, or arms he pleafcs.
Greek
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 389
Greek, from the bad manner in which he pro- nounced Arabic. " Friend, faid the prieft, take this piece of advice from me, and fpeak more re- verently of your betters, or you m^y have a chance to get your tongue fcraped.'* Hagi If- mael was never bleffed with much temper. He was very honeft, but, though feventy years old, was as paffionate as a child, and the more fo, as he did not underftand the language. He v/as an officer in the Porte of Janizaries, beiides being a Iherriffe ; had been fent, as I have already faid, by the Bey to efcort the Abuna to Abyflinia. Un- luckily at this time he underftood v/hat was faid diftinclly, and came up clofe to the Moullah, fay- ing, in a violent paffion, " Kafr Meloun Ibn kelb. /. e. Pagan accurfed, and race of a dog !" do you threaten me, a Iherrifie, with a grey beard ? Who are my betters ? The Aga is not my fuperior, were he a iherriffe, which he is not. He is an officer of the janizaries as I am ; he com- mands me to-day, and I command him to-mor- row : but, if it was not for his prefence, I would not leave that beard of yours till I had iliaken your head from, your ilioulders/'
All now was confuiion. I cried, " ?Iagi If- mael, for God's fake forbear." Every body fpoke, no body heard. The Moullah had croffed the room and fat down belide the Aga, who faid to him very ilernly, " What Yagoubc miay do, and what he may not do, in Syene, has never been confided to you, though it has been to me, and I have not thought it neceffary to take your
advice
390 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
advice upon it. This man is tlie fervant of a king. Were you to infult him in Confiantinople, his complaint would coil a much greater man than you his life, even this day before fun-fet. Who taught you to call him Kafr whom you had never before feen, and then abufe the janizary, who, befides, is a fherriffe, and an aged man, whofe hand better men than you kifs when they meet him in the ftreet ? Go home and learn wifdom,, lince you cannot teach it ; at leaft, don't make the grand lignior's caille the fcene of your abufe and folly." The Moullah upon this rebuke de- parted, very much humbled.
As Michael had brought the drawings, I turned tj the trees and fiowers. The Aga was greatly pleafed with them, and laughed, putting them up to his nofe as if fmelling them. They did not of- fend him, as they were not the likenefs of any thing that had life. I then Ihewed him a lifii, and reached the book to an old man with a long beard, but who had a very chearful countenance. He looked at it with great furprife. The Aga had feveral times called him his father. " Do not be angry, fays he to me, if I alk you a quef- tlon. I am not fucli a man as the Moullah that is gone." " I will anfwer all your queftions with pleafure, faid I, and, in your turn, you muil not take the anfwer ill. " No, no, faid two or three of them, Hagi Soliman knows better." So- Ibnan, " Do you not believe, fays he, that that iilh will rife againft you at the day of judgment ?" T}/. " I do not know, but I ihall be very much
furprifed
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 391
furprifed if it does." " I affure you he will, fays Hagi Soliman." 7^a. " Be it fo, it is a matter of indifference to me." SoL '' Do you know what God will fay to you about that fifli ? Shall I tell you ? Ta* " I have not the leaft idea, and you will oblige me." SoL " God w^ill fay to you, Did you make that fiih ? What will you anfvver ? Ta. " I will anfwer, I did." SoL " He will fay to you again, Make a foul to it." Ta. " I will anfwer, I cannot." SoL " He will fay. Why did you make that fifh's body, when you was not ca- pable to give it a foul ? What can you anfwer ' then ?" Ta, " I made that body, becaufe thou gaveft me talents and capacity to do it. I do not * make the foul, becaufe thou haft denied me power and ability, and referved that to thyfelf only.'* SoL " Do you think he will be contented v/ith that anfvver ?" Ta, " I do moft certainly think fo. It is truth, and I do not think a more direct one can be given." SoL " Aha! the MouUah w^ould tell you that will not do ; painting things that have life is idolatry, and the puniihment is hell-fire." Ta, " Patience, then, my cafe is defperate, for it is not a fm I intend to repent of." Thus ended this curious difcuffion, and we went away in perfe^l good humour one with the other. A number of the better fort drank coffee with me in the evenins:. The A^2i fent me two iheep, and, obferving my feet much inflamed and wounded, made me likewiie a prefent of a pair of flippers of foft Turkey leather to defend them from the inclemency of the weather,
^ It
392 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
It was the nth of December when we left Syene; we cannot fay failed, for our mafl being down, we went with the current and the oars, when the wind was againfi: us. In' our voyage down the Nile we had but very indiiferent wea- ther, clear throughout the day, exceedingly cold in the night and morning ; but, being better ' cloathed, better fed than in the defert, and under cover, we were not fo fenfible of it, though the thermometer fhewed the fame degrees. Above all, we had a good decent proviiion of brandy on board, part of which I had procured from the Aga, part from the Schourbatchie my landlord, neither of whom knew the other had given me any, and both of them pretended to each other, and to the world, that they never tafted ferment- ed liquors of any kind, nor kept them in their cuilody.
I had given to each of my fervants, to Ifmael and to the Greeks likewdfe, a common blanket called a barracan, of the warmeft and coarfeil kind, with a waitlcoat and trowfers of the fame, and all of us, I believe, had coniigned to the Nile Liie clothes in which we paiTed the defert. The nieannefs of our appearance did not at all ihock us, iince nothing contributes more to fafety in a country like this. I paffed Shekh Nimmer not without regret, but it w^as night, and I was very ill.
On the 9th we arrived at How, where the in- termitting fever, which I had at Syene, again re- turned, with unufual violence, and, what was
mofl
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 393
moft unlucky, my flock of bark was almofl ex- haufted, and the Rais had buiinefs that oblip-ed him to lie by for a day. As we were within a fmall diftance of Furfbout, I difpatched one of the Barbarins, with a camel, to the fathers at the monaftery of Furfliout informing them of my arrival and very bad ftate of health, and rcr quelling them to fend me fome wheat bread, as mine, was all confamed, and likewife fome rice, if they had any. Upon the Arab's firfl deliver^ ing his meflage the fathers treated him as an Im- poflor, declaring that they knew from good au- thority that I was drowned in the Red Sea, which another of them contradicted, being equally po- iitive, from the fame good authority, that my death had happened from robbers in Abyffinia. The Barbarin (a llirewd fellow) deiired the fa- thers to obferve, that, if I had been drowned in the Red Sea, it was not poffible I could be flain by robbers on land two years afterwards ; there- fore, as one report was certainly falfe, both might be fo, and he alTured them this was the cafe, and that I was at How ; but they laughed him to fcorn, and threatened to carry him to Shekh Ham am to puniih him. The poor fellow anfwered very pertinently. If I had come in Ya- goube's name for gold or filver, then you might have diftrufted me ; but fure it is not worth my while to hire a camicl to come here from How, and go back again to cheat you out of two loaves of bread and a pound of rice, which I never tail- ed myfelf till I was with Yagoubc, who made us
partake
yn TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
partake of every thing that he ate as long as it laded, and failed with us when our meat was ex- haufted.'* They continued to afk him, where he found me ? The fellow faid. At Ras el Feel ; and jiot being able to defcribe w^here that was, a frefh altercation began, in which it was concluded be- twixt the two reverend difputants, that I had been drowned three years before in the Red Sea, and therefore all the flory of Ras el Feel muft be a lie.
I happened, as indeed was often the cafe in thefe matters, that my Greek fervant Michael had been more provident than I. He had thought fomething of this kind might be poffibie, and therefore had defired the Barbarin, if fo it hap- pened, to call at Shekh Ifmael's at Badjour^, and inquire of him in my name for a loaf or two of wheat bread and fome rice. This the Barbarin did wdth fome diffidence, after the refufal recei- ved from the fathers^ and was very much furpri- {td at the chearful reception Shekh Ifmael gave him. The bread and rice w^ere fent ; he too had heard of miy death, but. was much eaiier convin- ced that I was ftill alive than the reverend fathers had been, becaufe more defirous that it fhould be fo.
Next day, the 20th, we arrived at Furfl:iOutj though Hagi IfmaeFs invitation, and the unkind- nefs of the fathers, had ftrongly tempted me to take up my quarters at Badjoura to guard him againft \h<^ pleurify, and the midaking again the month of Ramadan. SomiC aukward apologies
paffed
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 395
paffed at meeting ; and if thefe fathers, the fole object of whqfe miffion was the converiion of Ethiopia and Nubia, were avejfe before to the undertaking: their miffion, thev did not feem to increafe in keennefs from the circumftances which they learned from me.
On the 27th we failed for Cairo. At a fmall village before we came to Achmim, we were haiU ed by a perfon, who though meanly dreffed, fpoke with a tone of authority, and afked for a paiTage to Cairo, which I would have denied him if 1 could have had my own will ; but the Rais rea- dily promifed it him upon his firft application. He afterwards told me he v/as a Copht and ^ Chriftian, employed to gather the Bey's taxes ia fuch villages as w^ere only inhabited by Chriflians, to which the Bey did not permit his Turks to go. *'I heard, fays he, you w^as coming down the Nile, and I way-laid you for a paffage ; the Rais knows who I am, and that I ihall not be trouble- fome to you ; but I have a large fum of m.oney^ and do not chufe to have it known, I hope, how- ever, you will give me your proteftion for the fake of my mafter.'" — " Indeed, friend, faid I, I have but feven (hillings in the whole world, and my cloaths, I believe, are not worth much above that fum, and it is but a few days ago I was re- joicing at this as one of my greateil fecurities. But iince Providence has, I hope for your good, throwm you and your money in my way, I v/ill do the beft for you that is in my power, the fame as if it was my own."
On
39^ TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
On the lolii of January 1 773 wc arrived at the convent of St. George, all of us, as I thought, worfe in health and fpirits than the day we came out of the defer t. Nobody knew us at the con- vent, either by our face or our language, and it was by a kind of force that we entered. Ifmael, and the Copht went ftraight to the Bey, and 1, with great difficulty, had intereft enough to fend to the patriarch and my merchants at Cairo, by employing the two only piaftres I had in my pocket. If the capuchins at Fiiriliout received us coldly, thefe Caloy eros of St . George kept us fcill at a greater diftance. It was half by violence that we got admittance into the convent. But this difficulty was to be but of fhort duration ; the .^ morning was to end it, and give us a light of our friends, and in the meantime we were to ileep foundiy. We had nothing elfe to do, having no victuals, and the Caloyeros nothing to give us, even if they had been inclined, of which we had not feen yet the fmalieft token.
This we thought, and this, in the common view of things, we were intitled to think ; but we forg-ot that we were at Cairo, no lone-er to depend upon the ordinary or rational courfc, of events, but upon the arbitrary, 'Opprcffivc will of irrational tyrants. Accordingly I had, for about an hour, loil myfelf in the very uncommon en- joyment of a moft profound fleep, w^hen I was awakened by the noife of a number of ftrange tongues ; and, before I could recollect myfelf fufficiently to account v/hat this flrange tumult
might
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 397
iTilght be, eleven or twelve foldiers, very like the worfl of banditti, furrounded the carpet v/here- on I was afleep. I had prelence of mind fufiicient to recolleci: this was not a place \vhere people were robbed and murdered without caufe ; and, convinced in my own mind that I had given none, from that alone I inferred I was not to be robbed or murdered at that inflant. Without this, the appearance of the Itrangers, their drefs, language, and behaviour, all joined to perfuade me of the contrary. I alked them, with fome furprife, " What is the matter, Sirs ? What is the mean- ing of this freedom ?" The anfwer was in Tur- kifh, " i\ya ! Aya ! Get up ! the Bey calls yoy.'^ — ' The Bey, fays I, certainly calls at a very unfea- fonable hour." The anfwer was, '* Get up, or we v/ill carry you by force." — I fancy friends ^ faid I, you have miftaken m.e for fome other per- fon, I have not been here above two hours, and hnce that time have never been out of the con- vent. It is impolTible the Bey Ihould know that I am here." — " What figniiies it to us, fays one in lingua Franca, whether he knov% s you are here or not ? he has fent us for you, and we are come, Ava 1 Ava ! get up 1" He put his hand forward to take m.e by the arm. '•' Keep your diftance, you infolent blackguard, faid I, remember I am an Englifhman ; do not lay your hands upon me. If the Bey calls me, he is mailer in his own coun- try, and I will wait upon him ; But hands qti : thoup-h I have not feen Mahomet Bey thefe three years, he knows what is owing to his own cha-
racler
398 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
racier better than to fufFcr a Have like you to lay his filthy hands on a ftranger like me." — " No ! No ! Mallem, fays the man that fpoke Italian, we will do you no harm. Ifmael, that you brought from Habefti, has been with the Bey, and he wants to fee you ; and that is all."^ — Then ftay without, faid 1, till I am ready, and I will come to you prefently.'*
Out they v/ent : I heard them crying to the Caloyeros for drink, but they never in their lives were in a place where they could addrefs them- felves worfe for either meat or liquors ; on the other hand, 1 did not keep them long in dreffing. I had no ihirt on, nor had I been m.after of one for fourteen months paft. I had a waiftcoat of coarfe, brown, w^oollen blanket, trowfers of the fame^ and an upper blanket of the fame wrapt about me, and in thefe I was lying. I had cut off my long beard at Furfhout, but ftill wore prodi- gious muftachoes. I had a thin, white, muflin cloth round a red Turklfh cap, which ferved me for a night-cap, a girdle of coarfe woollen cloth that wrapt round my waift eight or ten times, and fwaddled me up from the middle to the pit of my ftomach, but without either Hioes or ftockings. In the left of the girdle I had two Enghih piftols mounted with filver, and on the right hand a common crooked Abyfiinian knife, with a han- dle of a rhinoceros horn. Thus equipt, I w^as ulhered by the banditti, in a dark and very win- dy night, to the door of the convent. ' ' The
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 399
The Sarach, or commander of the party, rode upon a mule, and, as a mark of extreme conii- dcration, he had brought an afs for me, with fods, or a carfaddle upon his back, the only animal that ^ to the fliame of our Chriftian rulers, any of our faith is fuffered to ride on in Cairo. The bead had not a lio;ht load, but was {Iron;:? enous;h. The diiliculty was, his having no faddle, and there were no ftirrups, fo that my feet would have touched the gi'ound had I not held them upj w^iich I did with the utmoil pain and diiUcuIty, as they were all inflamed and fore^ and full of holes from the inflammation in the dciert. No- body can ever know, from a more particular de- fcription, the hundredth part of the pain I fufTer- ed that night. I was happy that it was all exter- nal. I had hardened m.y heart ; it was ilrong, vi- gorous, and whole, from the near profpecl I had of leavincr this moil accurfed country, and beinr again reilored to the converfation of men.
The m.ule on which the Sarach rode went at a very brilk pace ; my animal did her bell, but ilie could not keep up with the mule. Each man of the folcliers, befides the reft of his arms, had a quarter-ftaff like a watchman's pole, about nine feet long, with Vv^hich every one in his turn" laid heartily on the afs to make her keen up v.dth the Sarach's mule. I had every reafon to fympathize with the bead for the feverity of the blows, of which I was a perfect judge, as whether through malice or heedleffnefs, every fourth ftroke land- .ed upon my back or haunches, fo that my fiefli
vva:s
400 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
was difcoloured for more than two months after- wards. Speaking was in vain ; you might as well have cried to the wind not to blow. Few peo- ple walk in the ftreets of Cairo at night ; fome we did meet who made us way, only obferving to each other, when we paffed, that I was lome thief the Janizary Aga had apprehended. In this moft difagreeable manner, I had rode near three miles, when I arrived at the Bey's palace. There all was light and all v/as buftle, as if it had been noon-day. I alighted with great diiBculty from my difconfolate afs, but with much greater plea- fure than ever I mounted the fineft horfe in the world. None of the people there knew what 1 came for, but thoug^ht I was fome Arab from the country. At laft I faw a Copht who had been a fervant of Ali Bey. I told him who I was, and he immiediaely knew m.e, but had not heard that I wa sarrived, and flilt lefs that I was fent for ; but he went in to the Bey's fecretary, who order- ed my immediate admiiiion.
In the mean time, my Sarach and company, v/lio had ufed me fo tenderly, came round me defiring the Bacfiili, or money to drink. "Look you, friend, faid I, your mailer knows me well, and you fhall fee what is the Bacfifh he will give you." A number of Turks ftanding by aiked, ." What did he do to you ? Did he ufe you ill ? Tell the Bey, and he will do for him." My friend feem.ed to.be fenlible he w^as in a fcrape, and though .the order of the Bey came for my being admitted, he v/ould not allow me to pafs, but
put
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 401
put his back againft the door till I promifed to fay nothing to the Bey.
I was introduced to Mahomet Bey Abou Da- hab. He was fon-in-law to Ali Bey my friend, whom he had betrayed, and forced to fly into Syria, where he Hill was at the head of a fmall army. He had been prefent with him the day I had my laft audience, when he was plainly dreflfed as a foldier. A large fofa, or rather two large fofas furnifhed with cufnions, took up a great part of a fpacious faloon. They were of the richeft crimfon and gold, excepting a fmall yel- low and gold one like a pillow, upon which he was leaning, fupporting his head with his left hand, and fitting juft in the corner of the two fo- fas. Though it was late, he was in full drefs, his girdle, turban, and handle of his dagger, all fhin- ing with the fineil brilliants, and a finer fprig of diamonds upon his turban than what I had feen his father-in-law wear once when I was with him.
The room was light as day, witha number of wax-torches or candles. I found myfelf humbled at the fight of fo much greatnefs and affluence. My bare feet were fo dirty, I had a fcruple to fet them upon the rich Perfian carpets with which the whole floor was covered, and the pain that walking at all occafioned gave me altogether fo crouching and cringing a look, that the Bey, upon feeing me come in, cried out, " What's that ? Who is that? From whence is he com.e ? His fecretary told him, and immediately upon that I faid to him in xlrabic, with a low bow, " Ma-
VoL. V. D d hornet
402 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
hornet Bey, I am Yagoube, an Englifliman, better known to your father-in-law than to you, very un- fit to appear before you in the condition I am, having been forced out of my bed by your fol- diers in the middle of the only found lleep I have had for many years." He feemed to be exceed- ingly {[locked at this, and faid to his attendants in Turkifii, '^ My people ! who dares do this ? it is impollible." Thofe that were privy to the meifage reminded him of his fending for me, and the caufe, which he had forgot. They told him what Ifmael had faid, and what the Copht, the tax-gatherer, had mentioned, all very much in my favour. He turned himfelf with great vio- lence on the fofa, and faid, " I remember the man 'well, but it was not a man like this, this is bad payment indeed. I was going to aik you, Ya- goube, fays he, who thofe were that had brought vou out in fuch diitrefs, and I find that I have done it myfeif ; but take, my word, as I am a rnuffulman, 1 did not intend it, I did not know you was ill."
My feet at that time gave me fuch violent pain that I was like to faint, and could not anfwer, but as there were two flowered velvet cufhions upon one of the fleps above the floor, I was obliged to kneel down upon one of them, as I did not know how fitting might be taken. The Bey immediate- ly faw this, and cried out, " What now ? what is the matter?" I faw he thought I had fome complaint to make, or fomething to alk. I fhev/ed him my feet in a terrible fituation, the
efieds,
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 403
efFefts, I told him, of my paffing through the de- fert. He deiired me immediately to fit down on the cufhion. ^' It is the coldnefs of the night, and hanging upon the afs, faid I, occalions this ; the pain will be over prefently." " You are an un- fortunate man, fays the Bey, whatever I mean to do for your good, turns to your misfortune." " I hope not. Sir, faid I ; the pain is now^ over, and I am able to hear what mav be vour com- mands." " I have many queflions to afi?: you, fays the Bey. You have been very kind to poor old Ifm.ael, who is a iherriffe, and to my Chriftian fervant likewife ; and I v/anted to fee what I could do for you ; but this is not the time, go home and iieep, and I will f^nd for you. Eat and drink, and fear nothing. My father-in-law is gone, but, by the grace of God, I am here in his place j that is enough." I bowed, and took mv leave.
It
The Bey had fpoken feveral times to his fervant in Turkiih : but thefe interruptions are too com- mon at fach audiences to be taken notice of. I went out to the antichamber attended by ^vt or fix people, and then into another room, the door of which opened to the lobby v/here his foldiers or fervants v/ere. There was a flave very richly drelTed, who had a fmall baiket with orancres in his hand, who came out at another door, as if from the Bey, and £iid to me, '' Here, Yagoubc, here is fome fruit for you.'^
In that country it is not tlic value of the pre- fent, but the character and power of the perfon
D d 2 ■ that
404 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
that fends it, that creates the value; 20,000 men that flept in Cairo that night would have thought the day the Bey gave them at an audience the worft orange in that bafket the happieft one in their life. It is a mark of friendihip and pro* teclion, and the beft of all alTurances. Well ac- cuflomed to ceremonies of this kind, I took a iingle orange, bowing low to the man that gave it me, who whifpered me, " Put your hand to the bottom, the beft fruit is there, the whole is for you, it is from the Bey." A purfe was ex- ceedingly viiible. It was a large crimfon one wrought with gold, not netted or tranfparent as ours are, but liker a ftocking. I lifted it out ; there were a conliderable number of fequins in it ; I put it to my mouth and kilTed it, in refpect from whence it came, and faid to the young man that held the bafket, " This is, indeed, the beft fruit, at ieaft commonly thought fo, but it is for- bidden fruit for me. The Bey's protection and favour is more agreeable to me than a thoufand fuch purfes would be.'"
^ The fervant ftiewed a prodigious furprife. In fhort, nothing can be more incredible to a Turk, whatever his quality may be, than to think that any man can refufe money offered him. Although I expreffed myfelf with the utmoft gratitude and humility, finding it impoffible to prevail upon me, the thing appeared 10 extraordinary, that a beo-p-ar in a barracan, dreifed like thofe flaves who carry water, and waih the flairs, Ihould refufe a purfe of gold, he could no longer confent to my
going
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 405
going away, but carried me back to where the Bey was ftill fitting. He was looking at a large piece of yellow fattin. He afked the ufual -quef- tion, " How, now ? What is the matter ?" To which his flave gave him a long anfwer in Turkifli. He laid down the fattin, turned to me, and faid, " Why, what is this ? You muil furely want money ; that is not your ufual drefs ? What • does this proceed from your pride ?- '
" Sir, anfwered I, may I beg leave to fay two words to you ? There is not a man to whom you ever gave money more grateful, or more fenfible of your generofity in offering it me, than I am at this prefent. The reafon of my waiting upon you in this drefs was, becaufe it is only a few hours ago fince I left the boat. I am not however a needy man, or one that is diftreffed for money j that being the cafe, and as you have already my prayers for your charity, I would not deprive you of thofe of the widow and the or- phan, whom that money may very materially re- lieve. Julian and Rofa, the firft houfe in Cairo, will furnilli me with what money I require ; be- fides, I am in the fervice of the greateft king in Europe, who would not fail to fupply me abun- dantly if my necefTities required, it as I am tra- velling for his fervice."-—" This being fo, fays the Bey, with great looks of complacency, what is in my power to do for you ? You are a ftran- ger now where I command ; you are my father's^ fi:ranger likewife, and that is a double obligation i;pon me : What fhall I do r"— " There are, laid
I5 things
4o6 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER.
I, things that you could do, and you only, if it were not too great prefumption for me to name them." — '^ By no means, if I can I will do it ; if not, I will tell you fo."
I faw by the Bey's manner of fpeaking that I had rifcn coniiderably in character in his opinion iince my refufal of the money. " I have, Sir, faid I, a number of countrymen, brave, rich, and honeft, that trade in India, where my king has great dominions." He faid, as half to himfelf, " True, we know that." " Now there are ma- ny of thefe that come to Jidda. I left there eleven i?trge ihips belonging to them, who, according to treaty, pay high duties to the cuilom-houfe, and, from the diclates of their own generofity and magnificence, give large prefents to the prince and to his fervants for protedion ; but the flier- rifFe of Mecca has of late laid duty upon duty, and extortion upon extortion, till the Engliih are at the point of giving up the trade altogether." '' Ibn Cahaba, fays he, Twhich is, fon of a \vh — re,) he paid for that when I was at Mecca." The Bey took Mecca," fays a man at myfiioulder. " Why, fays the Bey, when they fay you are fuch a brave nation, why don't you beat down Jidda about his ears ? Have you no guns in your iliips ?" '• Our fhips, Sir, faid I, are all armed for war ; flout veiTeis, full of brave oiiicers and ikilful feamen : Jidda, and much fcronger places than Jidda, could not refift one of them an hour* But Jidda is no part of our dominions ; and, in countries belonging to ftranger princes we carry
ourfelves
. THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 407
ourfelves lowly, and trade in peace, and never ufe force till oblisred to it in our own defence."
o
" And what would you have me to do ?" fays he. " Our people, replied I, have taken a thing into their head which I am fatisfied they are well founded in : They fay, that if you v/ould per- mit them to bring their iliips and merchandize to Suez, and not to Jidda, they might then depend upon your word, that, if they w^ere punctual in fulfilling their engagements, they fliould never find you failing in yours." '• That they fhall never have to fay of me, fays the Bey ; all this is to my advantage. But you do not tell me what I am to do for you ?" Be fteady. Sir, faid I, in your promife ; it is now late, but I will come again to fettle the duties with you ; and be allured, that when it is known at home what, at my pri- vate defire, you have done for my country in general, it will be the greateft honour that ever a prince conferred on me in my life." "• Wh}'', let it be fo, fays he, bring coffee ; fee you admit him whenever he calls ; brinq; a caftan.*" Coffee was accordingly brought, and I was cloathed in my caftan. I went dov/n ftairs with my barracan hid under it, and was received with greater re- fpecl by the bye-ftanders than when I came up ; the man was the fame, but it was 'i^t caftan that made the difference. Mv friend the Sarach and his banditti were ready at the door vv-ith a mule,
* It is a loofe gariT.ent like a night-gowj) ; i; U a,^"fi; 'n ceremony, U'.id mark of favour.
which
I
4o8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
• which had gilt ilirrups, and was finely capari- foned.
I went Uack with full as much fpeed as I came, but free from thofe falutations of the qiiarter-ftafF, which I full felt upon my haunches. The fcale of politenefs was now turned in my favour ; and to fhew their refpecl for me, the foldiers knocked down every perfon they overtook in the ftreets, giving him firii a blow with the quarter-ftaff upon the head, then aiking him, why he did not get out of the way ? Ail my people at St. George had given me over for loft, or thought I had gone home to the French merchants, and taken my bed there.
I was twice after this with Mahomet Bey, in which time I concluded the ap'reement in favour of the Englifh merchants. Inftead of 14 per cent, and an enormous preient, the Bey agreed for 8, and no prefent at all, and at his own expence fent the lirman to Mocha, together with my letter, a copy of which, and initrucliois given in India in con- fequence, I have here fubjoined.
Mr. Greig, capt. Thornhili's lieutenant, whom I have mentioned as having feen at Jidda, was the firft who came down the Gulf to Suez in the Mi- nerva, and in the whole voyage, both by fea and after at Cairo, behaved in a manner that did ho- nour to his country.
In the two fubfequent vifits which I paid to Mahomet Eey, I received the lirm.an, and had a converfation before the Bey with the man that was to go exprefs to Mocha j not that I thought
my
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 409
my recommendation was of any confequence after his receiving orders from the Bey, but I knew very well, as diligence was recommended to him, that it might be fecured by a fnaall gra- tuity given unknown to the Bey. Two other iimilar prefents, of no great value, were likewife eiven to the two fervants who had affifted me in procuring the firman, the original of which I left with the Venetian conful. I thought it was un- becoming of me to ftarve a caufe that promifed to be both a private emolument and public bene- fit ; and, as I never expecled, fo I never received the fmallePc return or acknowledgement either public or private.
It may be faid, that the trade carried on there by Suez and the Ifthmus would not be of any ad- vantage to the India Company, but rather a de- triment to it. Such was the anfwer I sjot from Lord North upon my firR interview with his Lordihip after my return, and upon which I iliall not pretend to decide. But this I fhall fub- mit to the public, whether, when a great objecl:, fuch as that was, is unexpededly in the power of an individual, he is not obliged, as a good citizen to avail himfelf of the occaiion that offers, and leave it to that part of the public concerned, to determine v^'hetlier they can make it of fervice to them or not.
I have read, either in Abbe Prevot or M. de Maillet, (the reader v/ili affift me, as neither of theft books are in my hands at prefent) that the
French.
4IO , TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
French, in the beginning of this century, offered a very large lum of money to the government of Cairo, to be allowed to fend only an advice-boat to Suez, to carry and bring back their difpatches from their fettlements in India, but they were conftantly refiifed ; both the India Company and Britiih Government are, by my means, now in poiTeilion of that privilege, and I am informed it has already been of ufe, both in public and pri- vate difpatches.
I muft farther be permitted to fay, that, inde- pendent of thefe particulars, it feemed very ftrange that, conlidering the immenfe empire w^hich be- longed to Britain in the Eaft Indies, the Company and their fervants ihould be, to a man, fo per- fectly ignorant of the Red Sea and ports in it, and fo indifferent as to the means of being: better informed ; a fea which wa&ed the ihores of their conqnefcs, and came, at the fame time, v./ithin two days journey of the Mediterranean. To my en- deavours it is owing that fo many ingenious gen- tlemen have had an opportunity of lending their hands to per^fecl the chart of that fea, which I hope is now in great forwardnefs. It would perhaps, too, have been more generous and liberal-minded in them-, had they honoured the author of the li- berty and lafety they enjoyed, with at leaft a word of their approbation. Prifons and chains, ran- foms, torments, and perhaps death itfelf, were the calamities they efcaped by my preparing their way, and to this would have been added the mif-
carriai^e
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 411
carriage of their defign and their undertaking likewife*.
* Not one (hip has ever yet entered the Red Sea, as I am informed, without a copy of my letter and firman.
412 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Copy of Mr. Bruce's Letter to the Gentlemen trading to the Red Sea from the Britifli Set- tlements Bombay and Bengal.
Cairo, ift February^ ^11 1* Gentlemen,
^T the defire of feveral of the gentlemen tra- ding to Jidda in the year 1 769, I have fpoken to the Bey of Cairo (Mahomet Bey,} that he would give permiiTion for bringing the India fliips di- redly to Suez, without Hopping at Jidda, where they were conftantly ill-treated by the IherrifFe, and neither payments punctual nor their effects in fafety. Mahomet Bey expreifed all the delire poilible to have this fpeedily executed. He dif- patched this exprefs, in which I inclofe you the terms of agreement, with a tranllation from the Arabic original. You will fee he renounces all prefents, which, however, it will be always pru- dent to give. Moderate ones will ferve, provi- ded he behaves faithfully and generouily, as I be- lieve firmly he will. He feeks 8 per cent, cuftoms, and leaves it in your option to pay this in goods or money, and 50 patackas anchorage for each veffel ; this is for the captain of the port of Suez. " Arrived at Suez, you will do well to give no- tice to any of the houfes you chufe to addrefs
yourfelves
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 413
yourfelves to. There are three French houfes of note here ; Meff. Napollon and Co. MelT. Rofa and Co. and MelT. I'Anglade and Co. j and thefe three are rich houfes, in great credit, and with whom you are very fafe. There is alfo an Itali- an houfe of credit equal to thefe, but not fo rich ; it is Pini and Co. Ic will always be your intereft^ if more than one iliip comes, to addrefs yourfelves to feparate houfes, for by this means you will be fooner difpatched, have more friends, lefs riik^ and more intelligence.
"As I have no view in this but your advantage, fo I will not take upon myfelf to anfwer for any confequences. You know what Turks are. I ne- ver faw one of them to be trufted in money af- fairs. You muft keep your eyes open, and deal for ready money. You will, however, be much fafer, be better ufed, have better markets, and be fooner difpatched ; and if any of your cargo re- mains unfold, you may leave it here in great fe- curity, with a certainty of its felling in winter ; and the money will be either remitted to England^ or ready for you here at your return, as you di=
reel.
" Cairo is in lat. 30^ 2' 45'' ; two days and a half eafy journey from it is Suez, in lat. 29^ 57^ 1 5'^ Ras Mahomet, the Cape that forms the eaf- tern ihore of the entrance into the Gulf of Suez, is in lat. 27° 54 10". You fliould make this Cape while it bears N. E. or ^, E. by E. at far- theil, for farther eafc is the entrance of a gulf
which
414 ' TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
which has often been miftaken for that of Suez. Laftly, Tor, the iirft inhabited place after pailing the Cape, is in lat. 28^ 12' 4' ; here you may have provifions, water, and a pilot.
"There are no Engliih merchants at Cairo ; but there comes, from time to time, a wandering fort of iliarpers under that name, either from Mahon, the Greek iflands, or Leghorn ; and after an eftabiiihment of one year, break and difappear. Be careful of having any thing to do with thefe, for they will either rob you themfelves, or betray you to the government, or both. There is no fafety but with the three French and one Italian houfe, before mentioned. If you addrefs your- felves to the government, in your affairs of tariffs and firmans, you may do it through means of the Venetian conful, immediately upon your ar- rival, putting yourfelves under his protection. He is a man of honour and credit, and is a colo- nel in the fervice of his ftate. Let him fend you the tariff of the Bey before you come to Cairo, or land an ounce of cargo, and you will fatisfy him for his trouble. He does not trade, but is very well-affecled to our nation, and there is no Con- ful here but the French and Venetian.
'• In a word. Gentlemen, I have feen your trade to Jidda, and it is a ruinous one, and the fherriffe, now poor and hungry, will every day rob you more and m.ore. After the fealincr uo the houfe, and exacting part of the effects of the cap- tains
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 415
tains who died at Jidda, there is no fafety for you but either at Mocha or Suez.
I am always. Gentlemen, Your moil obedient and humble ferv^
JAMES BRUCE/'
" To Captain Thornhill of the Bengal Mercht, Captain Thomas Price of the Lion, or any other of the Engiiih veffels trading to Jidda."
P. S, " I fend you a copy of the iirm.an ; alfo let- ters for the governors of Bombay and Bengal, inclofing the fame ; you will fee the tranlLator be a perfon of truft, and have no intereil in deceiving: vou. If I did not think you very fafe at Suez I would not write you. You are to bring no coffee, or any produce of Arabia, at leaft the fir ft voyage, till you make your terms here. I inclofe you a letter from the chief of the- cuftomhoufe.
J. B."
Copy
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Copy of Inftruclions from . the Managers of the Suez Adventure, to Mr. John Shaw, and Captain William Greig.
" Gentlemen,
i- HE proprietors of the Suez Adventure having made choice of you to conduct the undertaking, it is our duty as managers to give you the necef- fary inftrudions. Inclofed you will receive in- voice and bills of loading of the cargo, and like- wife of the freight loading on the Bengal Mer- chant, on account and rilk of the concerned, which you are to difpofe of in the gulf of Mocha, Jidda, or Suez, on the moft advantageous terms, obferving at the fame time, as nearly as poffible, the following inftructions :
*' As many unforefeen accidents may happen that we cannot guard againfl:, and as the proprie- tors have placed in us an implicit confidence, we now delegate to you. Gentlemen, full power and authority to conduct and manage this new under- taking, for which your credit, as well as ours, is engaged ; and though we hope it is unneceffary to recommend to you as an objed: of the greateft importance, and on which the fuccefs of all un- dertakings depends, a good underftanding and harmony between thofe who are to execute, we are fatisfied that vour attention to the intereft of the proprietors, and your own reputation, will outweigh every other coniideration. and that no- thin or
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 417
thing will interrupt that union which is fo abfo- lutely necefTary to infure fuccefs in new undertak- ings like the prefent.
" You are to draw a commiflion of 5 per cent, on the fales. Mr. Shaw, as chief fupercargo, will draw 3, and Captain Greig 2 per cent, and on all freight in the fame proportion as the cargo. Paf- fengers, or other emoluments that are cuftomary, are to be equally divided between you, and no fe- parate intereft to be allowed. As it is ufual in ail voyages from this port, where there is a fuper- cargo, to allow one-lixth of the cargo as privi- lege, in lieu of which 12,000 rupees will be divi- ded between you and the officers on return of the veiTel.
" Mr Shaw, as chief fupercargo, is to have the fole management and difpofal of the cargo, and Captain Greig to have the entire management of the navigation of the veiTels employed. At the fame time, we recommend and defire, that, in all points which require advice in either of the de- partments, you confult with each other, and that no material ilep be taken without fuch advice and confultation ; and, fhould there be a difference in opinion, we expect a minute be made, and the reafon for fuch difference fully fet forth, in order to be laid before the proprietors at your return. To prevent any mifunderflanding of the general inftruclions, we ihall feparate, in the latter part, the two branches of the naval and mercantile, and be more clear and explicit in each particular de- partment.
Vol. V. E e '• The
4i8 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
" The veflels to be employed in the voyage are the Benp-al Merchant, on board of which the car-
o
go is Ihipped. I'he Cuddalore fchooner, Captain Wedderburn, is granted by the governor * to the proprietors as a tender, to afllft in the difcovery of the paffage to Suez, and the proprietors are to pay half the failing charges. On her Mr. Cun- ningham, a furveyor, is appointed, and both he and the veffel are entirely under your direction, and they are to receive, from time to time, fuch inftru^lions as you may judge neceifary. The Suez pacquet is a fmall fchooner equipped for the purpofe of attending the Bengal Merchant in the mofl diiEcult parts of the navigation ; and as flie cannot be further ufeful after your return from Suez to Mocha, we defire flie may be fold there, where frequently faiall veilels fell to advantage.
" On your leaving the pilot you will make the beil of your way, with the other two veiTels un- der your charge, ta the Malabar coaft, and touch at Anjango and Cochin, taking in there coir, haw- fers, and water, or any thing you may iland in need of, and without lofs of time proceed direcl to Mocha. On your arrival there you muft make inquiry if any pilots are come down from Suez ; lliould none be arrived, iofe as little time as pof- fible, and proceed up above Jidda to Yambo, pro- vided you hear no unfavourable accounts from Suez, fuch as war, or any commotions at Cairo, v/hich you might think may endanger the fuccefs of the voyage.
"If
* Warren Hadings, Efq.
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 419
" If fuch accounts are rumoured at Mocha, trace them fo as to be fully fatisfied there is foun- dation for them, and if you have good authority to credit the reports propagated, and are certain they are not fpread with a view to difcourage your proceeding, in that cafe we advife your proceeding to Jidda as moft for the intereft of the concerned. At Jidda you will deliver the cuflom.ary letters to the baflia and fherriffe, and, without taking no- tice of any further project, difpofe of your cargo, as the articles are all of the proper aiTortment for that market, and we defire, in that cafe, you col- lect your returns as expeditiouily as poflible ; and if you find any coniiderable freight for Bombay, and the feafon will admit your going there from Mocha, fo as to arrive in Bengal by the middle of October, in that cafe yoii will purchafe a cargo of cotton, and proceed here directly. Whatever fil- ver you may have after the purchafe of the cotton, you will pay into the company's treafury for bills on this prefidency. If you cannot procure a good freic^ht at Tidda for Bom.bav, v/e deiire you will proceed from Mocha to the coaft of Coromandel, and touch at Negapatnam, where letters v/iil be lodged for you.
'' On your arrival at Mocha, fliould you hear no unfavourable accounts of w^ar, or any diftur- bances at Cairo, you w^ill proceed to YambOj where you will again inquire if there are any pi- lots acquainted with the paffage to Suez. If you meet with any v/ho, upon exam.ination, appear capable of conduc1:ing the veilel, we recommend
E e 2 your
420 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
your taking them on board, but flill be very cau- tious how you truft them ; order them to con- duel you up the common tract, and keep the two veffels with you till you are fatisfied of their abi- lities, then we advife your difpatching the Cud- dalore the outward paiTage, in order to furvey it up to Sues, and give them orders to join you there. But fliould you be fo unlucky as not to meet wdth pilots, there will be no alternative but to proceed with the greatell care and caution the outward paiTage, with your two tenders a-head both day and night, till you reach Tor, where you will meet with pilots and water ; and as we have reafon to believe the danger of the paiTage is then over, if you find it to be the cafe, you will difpatch back the Cuddalore to make a cored fur- vey as far down as Jidda, in the lat. of 2 1 ^ 30. As it cannot be fuppofed you will be able to make an exacl furvey in going up in mid-channel, you will inftrucl Captain Wedderburn to follow the fur- veyor's order, but at the fame time to make all neceffary remarks himfelf, as alfo his officers, and to finiih the furvey as expeditioully as pofTible, and to return to the fliio at Suez ; but fhould more time be taken up, and he finds it impracti- cable, he muft endeavour to go to Yambo, and there wait for the difpatches, if he can do it with fafety ; if not, to return to Mocha, and remain there to fupply himfelf with fuch necelTaries as he may ftand in need of, to be ready to make the beft of his \V2LY to Bengal, as foon as he receives your
difpatches
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 421
difpatches, and the monfoon will allow him to proceed.
" On your arrival at Suez you will inquire of the mafter of the port, or governor, whether or not he has any letters, &c. from his mafter the Bey, refpecling you ? Should he have none, you will defire him to forward the fhort letter from the governor, informing him of the arrival of the fliip at his port. You mull not land a piece of goods, or enter into any agreement or contract, &c. till you hear from the Bey, and, from the anfwer you receive, confult how to adl; but let it be with great caution, till you are perfectly fa- tisfied of the friendly difpofition of the Bey to- wards you, as we have reafon to expect the Bey's anfwer will be polite and favourable, and an in- vitation to viiit Cairo. Mr. Shaw will then pro- ceed with the purfer, and any other of the officers you may think proper, with a few lafcars and fer- vants, properly equipped, to make the embaffy brilliant and refpeclable. The letters, prefents, and mufters of the cargo fhould go at the fame time ; and we recommend that, on Mr. Shaw's arrival at Cairo, after he retires from the Bey, he makes a vilit to the Venetian Conful, whom Mr. Bruce has mentioned very particularly in his letter. If he finds him the fame perfon he has de^ fcribed, he will receive from him fuch neceffary information as may be ufeful in his future tranf- a6lions, and will put himfelf under his protection in preference to the French houfes ; but he will ad with extreme caution, till he difcovers fuch
connection
422 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
conne6tion is not dKagreeable to the Bey, with whom he muft appear to be, on all occalions, perfectly fatisfied. We furnifh you with a copy ' of ]Mr. Bruce's letter, to whom we coniider our- felves much obliged for the information he has given us. His letters you will find of great fer- vice in conducting your bufinefs there, and to which we advife your paying ilricl attention.
" We deiire that Captain Greig may remain on board the (hip till all the cargo is difpatched and landed, in order to give every necelTary ad- vice in tranfporting the ianic, and when that is finiflied. Captain Greig is to proceed to Cairo, and afibrd Mr. Shaw any aiiiftance he m.ay re- quire ; and we deiire, and particularly recom- mend, that, as foon as the cargo is fold, and Mr. Shavv' has made the neceiiary obfervations and re- marks on the reception he has met with, the g:oods that have fold to moft advantage, and of the forts that will beil anfwer in future, and other occurrences, that you difpatch fuch accounts, by the firil conveyance you mav have to Jidda, to Captain Anderfon of the Succefs galley, and du- plicate, by the Suez pacquet to Mocha, to Captain Wedderburn of the Cuddalore fchooner, with orders for him to proceed to Bengal without de- lay ; and we deiire that thefe difpatches may be directed in a large pacquet to the governor for his perufal, with draughts and remarks on the paiTage.
" As we think it of great confequence that you ufe all poffible difpatch in finiiliing your bufinefs
at
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 423
at Grand Cairo, fo as to leave Suez as early as the feafon will permit, it the Cuddalore* has been able to join you after the furvey, you will then proceed down the channel ihe has difcovered ; but if, on the contrary, ilie has not joined you, and that the Suez pacquet is likewife gone with the difpatches, you muil then procure good pilots and, if pofiible, a fmall velTel for fear of accidents, and go down the ufual tracl of the Suez veiTels ; making particular remarks on that paflage, pro- ceed on to Mocha, and you will attend to the for- mer part of your inftruclions refpecling the defli- nation of the veflel.
" Having now finiflied our general inftruclions, we think it neceilary to be more particular in each branch of your departments.
rCudbert ThornhilL (Signed) < Robert Hoiford.
*- David Kiilicam"
To Captain Greig* "SIR,
VV E rely on your knowledge, experience, and good conduct for the navigating part of the voy- age, which is entirely intrufted to you ; and though we have deiired that you advife with Mr*
* The Cuddalore was loft in a ftorm m the bay of Bengal, and Captain Wedderburn drowned before the commencement of the voyage. A fmall veflel, called a Gallevat, was fubflituted, commanded by Captain Moifat^ vi'iio made the voyage.
Shaw
424 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
- Shaw on all difficult points, yet we give you a la- titude to follow your own opinion, though con- trary to Mr. Shaw's, but we expect you both enter a minute, and fet forth your reafons for being of different opinions. Should it be a point of con- fequence, we advife that you confult v/ith all the officers, and their opinions are to be recorded.
" We defire that a fair log-book be kept, figned by the officer who leaves the deck at noon, in which book every remark and tranfa^lion during the voyage is to be inferted, and no erafures muil be made, or leaves torn out. Inclofed is a letter from us to Captain Wedderburn of the Cuddalore, directing him to follow fuch orders as he may from time to time receive from you.
'' At Ingerlee you will give him written orders to keep you company, with fuch proper iignals for day and night as may be neceffary ; and ihould he,by ftrefs of weather or any other accident, part company, you will inform him of your firft place of rendezvous, Anjango and Cochin ; fliould he arrive firft, he muft remain till vou come : Should you arrive and finiih your buiinefs before the ar- rival of the Cuddalore, you will wait two or three days, and then proceed to Mocha, leaving orders for his joining you there. If by any ac- cident he fhould not join you there, and you have got pilots for Suez, you muft not lofe time, but proceed without him, leaving him inftrudions to proceed on the furvey : but fhould it fo happen that you meet with no pilots at Pviocha, and the Cuddalore fhould not arrive, we ftill recommend
your
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 425
your waiting at Mocha as long as you think it prudent ; and if you have the Suez pacquet with you, you will proceed to Suez if poffible, and en- deavour to make the ifland to the S. W. of Cape Ras Mahomet, that you may not make any miftake and get into the falfe gulf : but fliould you find it impraclicable after making every prudent attempt, you will then have a confultation with Mr. Shaw and your officers, and bear away for Jidda, fol- lowing the direclions in your general inflrudions.
*' The concerned has been at an immenfe ex- pence to equip the veiTels with additional ftores, which in any other voyage than the prefent would be fuperfluous, we therefore defire (fhould your voyage terminate at Jidda) that you en- deavour to difpofe of fuch articles of ftores as you are not in want of ; but Ihould you arrive at Suez, let them remain till your return to Mocha, and there, if you have an opportunity to difpofe of them for the advantage of the concerned, we defire it may be done.
" Should any of the officers be good draughts- men, we defire you will encourage them to make draughts of every thing remarkable in the Red Sea, and we will make them an acknowledgement for their trouble j but we recommend that every remark, draught, or drawing of the paiTage, may be collected together for the governor's | peru- fal ; and we hope you v/iil take proper care that, on your return, nothing tranfpire till the gover-
f Mr. Haftings, here alluded to, with thefe memorandums and informa- tions, difpatched the Swallow pr.cket to the Red Sea.
nor's
426 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
nor*s fentiments are known. Should Mr. Shaw be obliged to ftay with the goods at Cairo, you are to let him keep an ofEcer, and any number of lafcars he may require, and that you can fpare them.
1 Cudbert ThornhilL (Signed) [- Robert Holford.
J David Kiilican.^'
Mahomet Bey being about to depart to give battle to his father-in-law, I thought it was no longer convenient for me to ftay at Cairo ; I went therefore the lail time to the Bey, Vv^ho preiTed me very much to go to the camp with him. I was fufficiently cured, however, of any more Don Quixote undertakings. I excufed myfelf with every mark of gratitude and profeflion of attachment ; and I iliall never forget his laft words, as the handfomeil thing ever faid to me, and in the politeft manner. ^' You w^on't go, fays he, and be a foldier : What will you do at' home ? You are not an India merchant ?" I faid, " No.'* " Have you no other trade nor occu- pation but that of travelling ? I faid, " that was my occupation." " Ali Bey, my father-in-law, replied he, often obferved there was never fuch a people as the Englifh ; no other nation on earth could be compared to them, and none had fo many great m.en in all profeflions by fea and land : I never underftood this till now, that I fee it mull be fo, when your king cannot find employment
for
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 427
for fuch a man as you, but fending him to perifli by hunger and thiril in the fands, or to have his throat cut by the lawlefs barbarians of the de- fert."
I faw that the march of the Bey was a fignal for all Egypt's being prefentiy in diforder, and I did not delay a moment to fet out for Alexandria, where I arrived without- any thing remarkable. There I found my Ihip ready ; and the day after, w^alking on the key, I was accofted by a friend of mine, a Turk, a man of fome confequence. He told me it was whifpered that the Beys had met, and that Ali Bey had been totally defeated, wounded, and taken. " We are friends, fays he; you are a Chriftian ; and this connexion of the Bey with the Ruffians has exafperated the lower fort of people greatly againft you all. Wliat is a day or two to you, now you are going at any rate ? Be advifed; go on board your fliip early in the afternoon, and make your captain haul out beyond the Diamond f , for mifchief is at hand.'* My captain was as ready as I ; and we accordingly hauled out beyond the Diamond. The weather was fo clear, and the wind fo directly fair, that, contrary to cuilom, we fet fail that veiy night, after being witneiTes that the mifchief had begun, by the number of lights and repeated firings of muikets we heard from the town.
f The Diamond is a fmall rock, jufl without the harbour of Alexandria ; when fliips arrive there, they are cleared out, and never rnoleiled further by the cuftomhouie.
Our
428 TRAVELS TO DISCOVER
Our vefl'el Iprung a leak oiF Derna on the coaft, where I was once before ihipwrecked. The wind being contrary, we put about Ihip, and flood be- fore it for C)^rus , our veffel filled apace, and we were intending to put a cable round her waift w^hen the leak was found. A violent florm over- took us the night after. I apprehend the ihip was old, and the captain was again much alarmed, but the wind calmed next day. I was exceed- ingly diftrelied with the Guinea-worm in my leg, when the captain came and fat down by my bed- lide. " Now the matter is over, fays he, will you tell me one thing ? it is mere curioiity ; I will not let any one know.'' " Before I tell you, faid I, 1 dare fay you will not ; what is it ?'^ ^' How many of thofe things, you know, fays he, winking, have you on board ?" Upon the word of a man, faid I, I do not know what you mean." " Ces morts ! thefe dead men ! how many have you in thefe trunks ? for laft night the crew was going to throw all your boxes over- board." " I can tell you, captain, faid I, that you and they had better been in bed lick of a fever, than been guilty of that unprovoked vio- lence. ' Brutal comme un Provencal,' is a pro- verb even in your own country ; I would not wifh to have fucli a confirmation of the truth of it. But there are my keys, in cafe another gale fhould come, choofe out of my trunks the one that, according to your idea, and theirs, is like- lieil to have a dead man in it, and then take ano- ther ;
THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. 429
ther ; and the firft one you find, throw them all over-board. I forced him to open two of the chefts, and, lucky it was, as I believe, for off the ifland of Malta we had another violent gale, but which did us no damage. At laft, after a paf- fage of about three weeks, we landed happily at Marfeilles.
Nullura nunien aheji ft fit prudentia ; fed Te Nosfacinms^ Foriuna, Deiim^ caloque locatims,
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44'6 Regifter of the Barometer and Thermometer in Abyflinia.
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44^ Regifter of the Barometer and Thermometer in AbyfHnis.
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Regifter of the Barometer and Thermometer in Abyffinia. 449
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