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SAL | aniach te amite SS = ri ‘ & e THE VALE OF MOWBRAY: — t A Wistorical and Topographical ACCOUNT OF THIRSK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. BY ‘WILLIAM GRAINGE, Author of ‘‘ The Battles and Battle Fields of Yorkshire,” &c. LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT. RIPON: A. JOHNSON AND CO., MARKET-PLACE, THIRSK: J. PACKER, MARKET-PLACE. — ee L8o2. Rie. = : ; . i 8 eae a ee: ee2ce0 @ere08 * @¢ @ e . iy : me Pde ah ap ok = “9 a i ; ‘ uw £ ; “ew td eenad ~ ="* pm ” Sere 5 5 - zs rae 4 > ws . é a > ‘ maces i ttt SE ae . ae a ee PREFACE. ee In presenting the following little work to the notice of the public, the Author feels that no apology is needed for the ddisiee of the subject, as the tract of country of which it treats has been but slightly noticed by any previous topographer. Much new matter has been-obtained from different and various sources, and were I allowed to give them, the names of the gentlemen from whom it was derived would be a sufficient — guarantee for its authenticity and correctness. - The treatise on the Physical History of the district is from the pen of Mr. J. G. BAKER, well known by his many publi- cations on the science of Botany. To the Clergy and Landowners of the country described, the Author acknowledges himself under great obligations, and takes this opportunity of tendering them his sincere thanks, for the readiness with which they supplied information relative to their respective parishes, families, and estates. An account of the parish of Topcliffe was intended to be comprised in this volume, but the matter relative to the more immediate vicinage of Thirsk accumulated to such an extent as A OEE RS ES SS oe SLT cn et ny tome te a A LT A pe ere ne eR NE At EY CL DS A I iv. PREFACE. +> to exceed the bulk at first proposed for the whole volume ;— besides justice could not be done to it in a brief sketch, as it is of considerable extent, and the history of its owners long and interesting. In conclusion I have only to state that my aim has been to compress into the bulk of a portable guide book, much of the information usually found in the ponderous tomes of local history—and to the reader, kind or unkind, I have only to say bear in mind the admonition of England’s oldest poet, “ Dan Geffry ”: | ** For every word men may not chide or pleine, For in this world certain ne wight ther is That he ne doth or sayeth sometime amis.” W. G. March, 1859. doce 8 at net ee REA OREO pA CNNSI AIEEE Ree ot te i Pape marae Ce me NORE ra CONTENTS. es Historical Introduction The Physical History of the District History of 9 Thirsk . Carlton-Miniott Sand Hutton Sowerby Bagby . South Kilvington Thirkleby Hood Grange Filiskirk Mount St. John Marderby Grange Sutton-under- Whitstonecliff Boltby . Kirkby Knowle New Building Leake Upsall . Cowsby Thornton-le-Street oneness ern er SN TOOL EO NG i at tt St rem at Vi. CONTENTS. History of Wood End . 39 Appendix North Kilvington Knayton-cum-Brawith Brawith Borrowby Gueldable Landmoth-with-Catto . Crosby . Nether Silton Arden Hall Cver Suilton. Kepwick ‘Osmotherley West Harlsey Thimbleby . Mount Grace Priory The Hambleton Hills * » PAGE. 293 298 309 310 312 J13 314 316 ” 318 322 do2 304 340 341 343 349 360 er Seen NO ee AE ee THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. ‘Tre VALE OF Mowpsray, so called from its Norman owners, the powerful barons of that name, forms the north-eastern portion © of the great Vale of York, and extends along the foot of the Hambleton range of hills from the town of Hovingham to the borders of Cleveland, being more than twenty miles in length by five or sixin breadth. Few parts of Yorkshire exceed this vale in beauty, combining, as it does into pictures of almost endless variety, the soft and mild landscape of the cultivated plain, with the stern and grand features of mountain scenery.* The design of this work is to describe the most interesting objects in the northern part of this district, from the point in the Hambleton hills where the mountain range bends eastward, above the village of Kilburn, to the ruins of the priory of Mount Grace, including to the westward the parish of Topcliffe. The remains of antiquity scattered over this portion of coun- try, though not many, are interesting: the dry uplands of the Hambleton range present roads, circles, tumuli, and earthworks of the aboriginal Britons; while on the plain below are numerous traces of Roman, Saxon, Danish, and Norman occupation. * “The region below these hills on the west, is one of the pleasantest parts of ~ Yorkshire, being in general fertile, well sheltered, and woody, with magnificent hills and mountains for the back ground of rich domestic pictures.”—Phillips’ Rivers, Mountains, and Sea Coast of Yorkshire, p. 56. B cL EE ES St ST se RTs sh tt cn et ty Gt 5 tetas te ee ON SR NA AL A ONO CLE LN I I tt een sented 2 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The earliest inhabitants of the Vale of Mowbray, of whom we have any record, were the Brigantes, one of the most numerous and powerful of the British tribes. Their territory stretched across the island, and was situated between the Tweed and the Humber on the east, and the Eden and the Mersey on the west, in- cluding the modern counties of Yorkshire, Durham, Northumber- land, Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Lancashire.* They were a fierce and warlike race, subsisting chiefly by hunting, while their cattle grazed in pastures unbounded by any artificial fence; their clothing was the skins of animals; and their dwellings pits dug in the earth, covered with sods or fern. Their government was monarchical, but free, like that of all the Celtic nations. Their religion, which formed part of their government was Druidical, human sacrifices were sometimes offered to their Gods, and the eternal transmigration of souls was inculcated and believed ; many of their ceremonies bore a great resemblance to those of the Hebrews. © Cartismandua, their queen, has gained an unenyiable distinction in the pages of Tacitus, | for her treachery in giving up to the Romans, Caractacus the brave chief of the Silures, who had sought her protection. The first Roman general who received the submission of the Brigantes was Petilius Cerealis, A.D. 71. They were finally sub- dued by Agricola, about the year 79. f The first care of the conquerors, after the subjugation of the country was to introduce their own laws and civilization, and by multiplying the wants of the inhabitants, inducing them to habits of industry, and finally to incorporate them with the Roman em- pire. The government of the Romans in Britain was a species of mild military rule, and their religion was the heathenism of the Pantheon; though doubtless christianity was preached in this country during the period of their occupation. Their sway ex- tended over a space of four hundred years, during which time many great public works were accomplished. The conquered country was * Richard of Cirencester, Ptolemy, and Diodorus Siculus. + Annals, B. xii. + Tacitus’ Life of Agric. SS SS Ee THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 3 divided into provinces, each of them governed by a pretor and queestor, the former charged with the general administration of the government, the latter with the management of the finances. The country of the Brigantes was formed into a province, styled Maxima Cesariensis, which contained twenty five towns or sta- tions, of which Eboracum, now York, was the capital. After the lapse of 1600 years many traces of Roman work yet remain, although in the Vale of Mowbray they are but scanty. There does not appear to have been any town or station of that people within its limits, a circumstance not a little surprising considering its fertility and beauty. Perhaps, in that age the plain was a forest devoted to wild beasts and hunting, and the neighbouring hills inhabited by the native Britons. That a road of Roman construc- _ tion intersected the country, a few miles west of the range of hills, we have undoubted evidence, not only in the names of places, all indicative of such a work, but in fragments of the road itself which have been discovered between Thirsk and Northallerton.* This road is generally called by antiquaries the eastern branch of Ermyn-street; it came from the eastern side of Scotland, and divided into two branches at Catterick. The western branch went with the Ryknield-street as far as Aldborough, and thence pro- ceeded by way of Little Ouseburn to Helensford, where it crossed the Wharf over Bramham-moor to Aberford, Castleford, Doncaster, and Bawtry, thence across the Trent to Stainby. The eastern 33 * The Roman roads are often distinguished by “street,” or “‘gate,’? sometimes marked by the words ‘‘ wath,”’ “‘ brough,”’ and ‘‘thorn,”’ the latter seldom far from old camps and mounds of importance.—Professor Phillips. If such names are sure proof of a Roman road, we have evidence in abundance to prove its existence between Thirsk and Northallerton, as in a distance of nine miles we have Thornbrough, Thornton-le-street, Thornton-le-beans, and Thornton-le- moor, four names of places in that short distance all indicative of Roman work. *At Thornton-le-Street,’’ says Cade, ‘‘ Here the Rykuield street separated from the road leading to Catterick, and stretched in a direct line by Sowerby-under-Cotcliff, crossed the Tees at Sockburn.”’ . About the year 1821, part of the Roman stratum was discovered at Sowerby-under- Cotcliffe, by some workmen throwing up a new road on the estate of Mr. Hirst, | apparently leading from Thornton-le-Street towards Sockburn. It is a matter of dispute whether the name Eormen or Ermyn is properly applied to any portion of this road, which is situated in Yorkshire; however, those who deny the continuance of the name thus far north, admit, that if the road 1 is not Ermyn-street itis a continuation of it. PME ET ne re ee es ene a he a a rine eh ii. SS 4 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. branch ran from Catterick by Northallerton, Thirsk, Easingwold, Stamford-bridge, Market Weighton, and South Cave, then crossed. the Humber, and ran by way of Wintringham, Lincoln, and Ancaster, to near Witham, where it united with the western branch above mentioned. Another road of very early time appears to have struck off ini the main line a short distance south of Thirsk, and passed across. Sowerby Field in a north-westerly direction, probably to join the great military way at some point between Catterick and Aldborough. Tue ridge, now called “ Saxy,” or “ Sangsty-way,” can yet be traced in the fields near the Thirsk Railway Station. Pressed by barbarian invaders at home, and weakened by their distant possessions, the Roman Emperors were at length compelled to withdraw their legions from Britain for the defence of their capital ;* and the effeminate inhabitants of this country, who had forgot the use of arms, were left defenceless to the mercy of the Picts and Scots, who, issuing in swarms from the north, laid the country waste, almost without resistance. Two years after the last Roman legion quitted this island, Hengist and Horsa, two brothers, the descendants in the fourth generation from Woden, one of the principal gods of the Saxons, embarked their army to the number of 1600 men in three small vessels, and landing in the isle of Thanet,immediately marched to the defence of the Britons. Having expelled the invaders, the fertility and riches of the country pre- sented a temptation too strong to be resisted by the ambition and cupidity of those newly acquired friends.t After nearly a century of war and bloodshed the Saxons prevailed, and the kingdoms of the Heptarchy were founded. Ida,a Saxon prince who landed at Flamborough with his army, completed the conquest of the counties of Northumberland and Durham, { of which he was proclaimed king. About the same time Ella, another Saxon prince, having conquered Lancashire and the greater part of Yorkshire, received the appellation of king of Deira. These two kingdoms were * A.D. 448. + Bede, Saxon Chron., Will. of Malm., Turner’s Anglo Saxons, &c. 4 A.D. 547; - | x THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 6 united in the person of Ethelfrith, grandson of Ida, and formed one of the most powerful of the Saxon kingdoms, under the title of Northumbria. In religion the Saxons were idolaters, and when they settled in Britain their idols, altars, and temples, soon overspread the country. They had a god for every day in the week. Thor, the god of thunder, represented Thursday. Woden, the god of battle, conferred his name on Wednesday. Friga, the goddess of love, presided over Friday. Seater, over Saturday, and had influence over the fruits of the earth. Tuyse gave his name to Tuesday. They also worshipped the sun and moon, who each conferred a name on one of the days of the week; Sonan on Sunday and Monan on Monday. The Saxon conquest remodelled society in this country, and nearly re-named all the places in it.* From the Roman conquest we have only the names of a few places, the traces of a few roads, and the relics of a few camps and towns :—from that of the Saxons, we derive a population foremost in arts and arms of any in the world, and a language more progressive than any other in ex- istence, which threatens to supplant all others where it has once taken root.t “This invasion,” says Mr. Turner, in his History of the Anglo Saxons, “ must not be contemplated as a barbarisation of the country. The Saxons brought with them a superior domestic and moral character, and the elements of new political, juridical, and intellectual blessings. An interval of slaughter and desolation unavoidably occurred before they established themselves and their new systems in the island. But when they had completed their * Many places in the Vale of Mowbray yet retain their Saxon names notwith- standing the changes to which they have been subjected—they may be distinguished by ending in “ton,” ‘* ham,” “* Ley,” “‘ Ing,”’ and * field,’’ as Kilvington, Knayton, Silton, Hutton, Carlton, &c. ~ t “The English is not only the language of these realms and their dependencies in the four quarters of the world ; but also of another mighty empire beyond the wide Atlantic, and of the hundred realms of Hindustan; and of that insular continent, which may be called the fifth division of the globe: and moreover that for the pur- poses of commerce, or literature, or by means of religious missionaries, it has become more or less introduced into almost every realm, and state, and territory on the face a 6 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. conquest, they laid the foundation of that national constitution, of that internal polity, of those peculiar customs, of that female mo- desty, and of that vigour and direction of mind, to which Great Britain owes the social progress, which it has so eminently acquired.” The Saxons were converted to Christianity by pope Gregory, surnamed the Great, who sent over missionaries from Rome for that purpose ;* and by the preaching of Augustine in the south and Paulinus in the north of England, the Christian religion made such rapid progress that it soon became the prevailing faith of the country. During the Saxon dynasty, England was divided into counties, hundreds, and tithings. These divisions as they now stand are said to owe their origin to king Alfred, + though others contend for a much earlier period.{ Tithings are so called from the Saxon, because ten freeholders with their families composed one. These all dwelt together, and were sureties, or free pledges to the king for the good behaviour of each other. As ten families of freeholders made a town or tithing, so ten tithings composed a hundred or Wapontake, || which was governed by a bailiff, or high of the earth, we may then indeed, venture to call it the language of the world.’”’— Neele’s Lectures on English Poetry. * ACD. 97. + Blackstone. + Whitaker’s History of Manchester. || * Though the term Wapontake is evidently synonymous with Hundred, the deriva- tion is not so obvious. Hoveden derives the term from Weapon tak, or touch, and Says it was so called, because the governor of it was put into his place and held upa weapon or spear, and the elders of the tithing admitted him by tacking or touching their spears with his, as a token of their subjection.” ** By others the term is derived from the Scandinavian word Vopnaiak, resumption of arms (weapon’s take) used to denote the termination of an 4ll-thing, or assembly of the people. In early times it was the custom for all the people to go armed to those meetings, and many a bloody scene was the natural result. In order to remedy these evils, it was decreed about the end of the 11th century, that all who were pre- sent at the meeting should lay aside their arms and not resume them until the assembly broke up.’’—Mallet’s Northern Antiquities. **It is more doubtful whether we may ascribe to the Danes alone the introduction of the word ‘ Wapentake’ (Vaabentag) as the peculiar designation for a district. In the northern counties of England, viz.: Northamptonshire, Nottinghamshire, Lincolnshire, and Yorkshire, this term is still used instead of the customary one of ‘Hundred.’ Yet there is some probability that it may have been derived from the circumstance that the Danes, like the ancient inhabitants of the North in general, a Bsc a eR Dae Oe ee en en tee rn i et te tem cn i is nn bit ns Senet serra ah dd ll ee ert nine A = ere _ _ THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 7 constable, and had formerly a court, called Folkmote Scynemote, or Wapontake court, * for the trial of causes, which has now fallen into disuse. An indefinite number of these hundreds or Wapontakes made a county or shire, the rule of which was held by a shire reve or sheriff, upon whom its civil administration devolves. The Anglo Saxons were divided into four classes;—men of birth—men of property—freemen, and serviles. Their money was in pounds, shillings, and pence; twenty shillings made a pound, and twelve pence a shilling as at present, with this difference, however, that twenty shillings weighed a pound troy, hence the term. Religious festivals were instituted soon after the establishment of Christianity, which commenced on the eve of the day dedicated to the patron saint, and hence obtained in some places the name of Wakes. The village feasts yet exist, though their origin is generally forgotten. The institution of trial by jury in England belongs to this age, and was used both by Saxons and Danes, probably before they settled in this country. Originally a man was cleared of an accu- sation if twelve persons came forward and swore that they believed him innocent of the alleged crime.t This was a jury in its earliest form ; afterwards it became necessary that twelve peers or equals of the litigants, should hear the evidence on both sides, and that they on their oaths should say whether the accused was innocent or guilty. Besides trial by jury they had trial by ordeal of water and of elected their chiefs, and signified their assent to any proposition at the Things, by Vaabentag, or Vaabenlarm (sound, or clang of arms.) Vaabentag (Wapentake) might thus have become the name of a small district, having its own chief and its own Thing.’—Worsaae’s Danes and Norwegians in England. * The laws of Ethelred ordain that every Wapontake shall haveits “thing,” and “that a Gemot be held in every Wapentake, and the twelve senior Thanes go out and the reve with them, and swear on the relic that is given to them in hand, that they will accuse no innocent man, nor conceal any guilty one.””—Thorpe’s Laws of the Anglo Sarons. The Wapontake courts were abolished by statute 14th Edward III. + Turner’s Anglo Saxons, iv. p. 337. a ade} 3) 8 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. iron. By the iron ordeal, the accused party carried a piece of red hot iron, three feet or nine feet according to the magnitude of the offence ; in the water ordeal, he plunged his hand into a vessel of boiling hot water up to the wrist in some cases, and to the elbow in others. These were only trials, their punishments consisted of banishment, slavery, branding, amputation of limb, mutilation of the nose, ears, and lips, plucking out the eyes, stoning, and hanging. The Saxons were not long permitted to enjoy their conquest in peace. In the middle of the eighth century the Danes began to ap- pear in their piratical barks on the shores of Northumbria, and in course of time made an entire conquest of the country, settling themselves in the spots they liked best ; thus adding to the already heterogeneous population of England, another element in the offspring of the daring sea kings of the north. The sea kings, says Turner, were a race of beings whom Europe beheld with horror. Without a yard of territorial property, withont any towns or visible nations, with no wealth but their ships, no force but their crews, the sea kings swarmed upon the boisterous ocean and plundered in every district they could approach. Never to sleep under a smoky roof, nor to indulge in the cheerful cup over a hearth, were the boasts of these watery sovercigns ; who not only flourished in the plunder of the sea and its shores; but who sometimes amassed so much booty, and enlisted so many fol- lowers, as to be able to assault provinces for permanent conquest. Piracy was reckoned so noble, that parents were even anxious to compel their children to the dangerous and malevolent occupation. From these adventurers the population of England received that spirit of maritime enterprize and daring, which makes them scorn the dangers of the deep, and spread their sails on every sea. The Vale of Mowbray received a large number of the new settlers, who named their villages from their own language, and more than one third of the places along the foot of the Hambleton hills yet retain names of Danish origin.* * All names of places ending in “‘ by” (Dan “ byr,’’) first a single farm, afterwards a town in general—these are very numerous in the Vale of Mowbray—as “ Thirkilby,”’ ** Thirlby,”’ “‘ Kirkby,”? ‘* Cowsby,”? &c. ‘‘ Thorpe,’”’ a collection of houses, a village THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 9 Upon the mass of population already existing in England of British, Roman, Saxon, and Danish origin, the conquest of William the Norman ingrafted a new race of kings, nobles, and warriors of foreign extraction. The inhabitants of Northumbria were amongst the last to bow their necks to the yoke of the conqueror. A violent struggle was made to expel the Normans, and York was the rallying point of the patriot army. To suppress this formidable insurrection, William repaired in person into the north, at the head of a power- ful army, swearing on his march by the “ splendour of God,” that he would not leave a soul of his enemies alive. For upwards of six months the city of York, under Waltheof, Earl of Northum- beriand, held out against the Conqueror, and only yielded at last under the pressure of famine. The ruthless tyrant faithful to his oath, sacrificed Waltheof and all the principal nobility and gentry to his fury, and laid the whole country waste from the Humber to the Tees.* The scene of desolation was so complete that for nine years neither plough nor spade was put into the ground; and such was the wretched condition of the inhabitants who escaped the sword, that they were forced to eat cats and dogs, horses, and even human flesh, to preserve their miserable existence.t The desolation of the Vale of Mowbray was so complete when the Domesday survey was taken, that one half of the manors within it are returned as waste. The conqueror parcelled out the lands among his followers, and the remnant of the original population sunk into the position of slaves. The chief land owners at the time of Domesday survey (A.D.1086) in this district, were the King himself, Williamde Percy, Robert Earl of Moreton, and Hugh the son of Baldric. The Percy family long retained the lands of their ancestor ; those of the other —“Thwaite,” an isolated pieée of land—‘‘ with,”’ a wood or forest—“ toft,”’ ** beck,” ** dale,” “ force,”’ “‘ fell,’ ‘“‘ haugh,” ‘* holm,” “ garth,” ‘‘ rigg,”’ &c., all indications of Danish or Norwegian occupation. For further information on this very interesting subject, see Worsaae’s Danes and Norwegians in England, Sec. vii., p. 68. * A.D. 1069. + Will. of Malmsbury, R. Hoveden, Sim. of Durham. 10 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. proprietors were soon conferred on Robert de Mowbray, earl of Northumberland. The principal stations of the Norman nobility - in this district, were Thirsk Castle, a stronghold of the Mowbrays, and the Manor House at Topcliffe, one of the earliest English homes of the Percies. These two potent families by the greatness of their power and the renown of their actions, spread over this Vale the charm of historical associations, of whom we purpose to speak more fully, when treating of Thirsk and Topcliffe. In a subsequent age, the Scropes, a family equally talented, and illus- trious, by their achievements in the field and cabinet, made Upsall the place of their residence, a spot to be looked upon with rever- ence by thestudent of history. Few there are indeed, who, treading on the site of a ruined castle, do not wish to know something of its history, and to whom an account of the actions or misfortunes of its owners would not be welcome; for “a people which takes | no pride in the noble achievements of remote ancestors, will never achieve any thing worthy to be remembered with pride by re- Would we contemplate England shortly after the conquest, we must look on two widely different pictures. On one side we see the Normans wealthy and free from public burdens; on the other the Saxons enslaved and oppressed with taxes; the former full of spacious mansions, of walled and moated cities ; the latter scattered over with thatched cabins, and ancient walls in a state of dilapi- dation; this, peopled with the happy and the idle, with soldiers and courtiers, with knights and nobles; that in misery and con- demned to labour with peasants and artisans; on the one we behold luxury and insolence; on the other poverty and envy. Lastly, to complete the picture, these two lands are in some sort interwoven with each other; they meet at every point; and yet they are more distant, more completely separated, than if the ocean rolled between them. Each has its language, and speaks a language foreign to the other. French is the court language, and is spoken in all the palaces, castles, mansions, abbeys, and monas- * Macaulay. | mote descendants”.* | | ean er ee ene THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 11 teries, and in all places where wealth and power offer their attractions; while the ancient language of the country is heard only at the fire sides of the poor and the serfs. For a long time the two idioms were propagated without any intermixture; the one being the mark of the noble, the other of ignoble birth.* The isolation of the two races continued long, and their hatred was bitter and often deadly ; at length they amalgamated, and the English people, commerce, and empire, are the result of their union. During the reign of Edward II., the Vale of Mowbray suffered severely from the incursions of the Scots, who in the years 1318, 1320, and 1322, penetrated thus far into England, plundering, burning, and destroying all before them. “The desolation of the country was so complete that the king issued a mandate to his collectors of taxes in the North-Riding, to exempt from payment thereof the following places in this tract of country, on account of their being burnt by the Scots—Topcliffe, Cristwayt, Astenby, _(Asenby), Difford, (Dishforth), Renington, (Rainton), Newby, _ North-Kilvyngton, Thornton-in-Thestrede, Northorington, Bret- teby, Sigston, Thymelby, Hotton-Parva, Smytheton, Hornby, Grisby, Osmunderlare, (Osmotherly), Northalverton, Broumpton, Romundeby, Thornton-in-Vinas, Nonyngton, Bergby, and Sourby.” —Rymer’s Federa. In more modern times we have not the actions of warriors to record ** Giants of mighty bone, and bold emprise,”’ but the more peaceful and permanent triumphs of art and science. The plain has been enclosed and cultivated like a garden, the marshes have been drained, the forests felled, and made productive ; the ancient trackways, narrow, dirty, and inconvenient, have been superseded by easy and commodious roads: and the latest triumph of locomotion, the iron pathways of Stephenson, intersect the dis- trict from end to end; realizing in the rapid rush of the heavy loaded train, and the mighty force by which it is propelled, the wildest dreams of eastern imagination; at the same time “the * Thierry’s Norman Conquest. 3 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. > thought speeding telegraph,” sends antelaSenee through the land with the rapidity of lightning. No greater contrast can be imagined, than the state of this Vale at the present time, and what it was in the dark and gloomy age of the Norman conquest, or the still more primitive age when the Druid performed his savage rites to a crowd of blind admirers in the oak groves of the valley, or in the mystic circle on the Hambleton Hills. ‘“‘ Hail mighty science, Nature’s conquering lord! Thou star-crowned, steam-winged, fiery-footed power! Hail gentle Arts, whose hues and forms afford Refined enchantments for the tranquil hour! , Hail tolerant teachers of the world, whose dower Of spirit-wealth outweighs the monarch’s might! Blest be your holy mission! may it shower Blessings like rain, and bring, by human right, To all our hearts and hearths, love, liberty, and light.” J. C. PRINCE. PHYSICAL HISTORY. os AN OUTLINE OF THE PHYSICAL HISTORY OF THE DISTRICT. eee Tue DIsTRiCT PHYSICALLY DEFINED.—ITs GroLocy.—THE PaLao- SAURIAN PERIOD.—ITHE TELEOSAURIAN PERIOD.—ITHE ME£EGALO- SAURIAN PERIOD.—THE GLACIAL PERIOD.—ITs MINERALOGY.— Irs Patzonrotocy.—Its Paysicat GrocraPpay AND Botany. —TuHeE Hitits.—THE STREAMS.—ITs ZooLocy.—ItTs CLIMATOLOGY. PHYSICALLY viewed, the district respecting which the present volume treats, may be called, without much departure from accu- racy, the basin of Codbec, for indeed with the trifling exception of the springs which feed the head of the Wiske at Mount Grace and a branch of the Rye at Arden, all its superfluous waters even- tually find their way into the channel of the single stream. In the present chapter it is proposed avoiding scientific technicalities as completely as possible, briefly to pass under review the most pro- minent details of its physical history and natural aspect, by way of a suitable introduction to its history, considered in the sense in which the term is usually employed: in a word, to introduce our readers to the tract of country itself, before proceeding to deal with the doings of its inhabitants. Geotocy. Armed with hammer and pickaxe, the geologist explores the crust of the earth, and by studying what he sees, by observing the constituent mineralogical elements of strata, the manner of their deposition, the order of superposition in which they are placed, and the character of the fossil organisms which they enclose, reads the past history of the globe which we inhabit. 7 a a A Ne 14 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Votary of a science where the goal of yesterday is the starting point of tomorrow, looking back through the long vista of vast : revolutions till in the far distance sight fades into dimness, he learns that the total extent of the term of human history is com- prised within a minute portion of the last of manifold epochs | which the earth has gone through, that as cycle succeeded cycle, rocks of eruption were protruded, mountain-chains uplifted, sedimentary formations deposited and consolidated, the relative — proportions and positions of sea and land changed repeatedly, that creation after creation of organised beings played its part upon the stage of existence and then vanished into oblivion, at length, when in the fulness of time his place of habitation was _ prepared, the Almighty fiat went forth and “Man became a living soul.” THE GEOLOGY OF THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. KINDS OF ROCK PERIODS OF TIME. DEPOSITED. LOCALITIES. Mesozoic series. 1. Palwosaurian period, or Red Arenaceous deposits co- loured with a rich red tint, by peroxide of iron. Thirsk, Thornton-le- street, Carlton-miniott, but everywhere overlaid with diluvium. Topcliffe, Dalton, Felis- kirk, Sutton, Borrowby, Kirby-Knowle, Sigston, Silton, Osmotherly. era of the New Sandstone. 2. Teleosaurian period, or era of the Lias. Two thick beds of ar- gillaceous shales, with an intermediate layer of marlstone and arenaceous ironstones. Sandstones,shales&im- 3. Megalosaurian period, Cleves, Gormire, Thirl- | | | | | | Zoophytes, Mollusca, Crustacea, Saurians, Fishes, Mammalia, till | | or era of the Oolite, pure oolitic limestones va- by, Mount-Saint-John, * Lower Oolite. riously alternated, some-| Westow, Raventhorp, times furnishing a consi-| Boltby, Kepwick, Os- derable proportion ofiron, and enclosing thin beds and partings of coal. motherly-bank, Arden. * * Upper Oolite. Gray-argillaceous rocks,| Hood-hill, Rolston- ee PP eR OOS TEE SCR ne Cainozoic series. 4, Glacial period, or era of the boulder clay. calcareous gritstones and oolitic limestones of acor- alline character. Blue clay intermixed with gravel and pebbles of various kinds. searr, Whitstoncliff, Bolt- by-scarr, Kepwick-bank, Arden-bank. Thinly spread over the whole district, except the hill-tops. The strata which may be found near the surface within the ee eS eS PHYSICAL HISTORY. 15 limits of our district are all sedimentary, that is to say, they have been deposited from water by chemical precipitation or ordinary mechanical action, not ejected from the depths of the earth in the manner that lava is thrown out of a voleano. With reference to age, the Mesozoic (secondary) and Cainozoic (tertiary) series of geologists are both represented within our limits, but none of the oldest rocks of all (which comprise what is called the Paleozoic or primary series) occur. Leaving out of consideration the ter- tiary or diluvial deposits, it may be assumed here as an invariable rule, that as we pass from west to east we pass from earlier to later strata. This will be shewn more clearly by the preceding table, which exhibits the geology of the vale at a concise view. The names in the first column imply certain periods or epochs of time, the first mentioned of which are the most remote, the last men- - tioned more recent; the second column states the kinds of rock which were deposited here during those periods or epochs of time; and the third column gives the localities where these rocks occur at or near the surface. We will next proceed to pass each of these periods under re- view and treat in fuller detail the bearings of its history upon our field of study. The time during which the later rocks of the Paleozoic series were deposited, was a period of violent and extensive convulsions. The causes which permitted that immense accumulation of arenaceous and argillaceous sediment, chemical de- posits and vegetable reliquiz, not less than four thousand feet in thickness, which represents the carboniferous system in Yorkshire, and fills up nearly the whole of the western half of the county, were suddenly brought toa close by an eruption of forces which have left their traces in the shape of faults and dislocations in almost all the coal fields of both the old world and the new. The whole escarpment of the Penine chain from the mountains round the sources of the Tyne, southward to Ingleborough, is caused by an immense disrup- tion, which reaches the extent of at least three thousand feet, for a length of fifty-five miles. “Perhaps,” says Professor Phillips, “the whole world does not offer a spectacle more impressive to the eye of a geologist, than that which is afforded by the contrast between the eee itt te aon nae neteretntinn ae ene en» ee men ir nema 16 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. mighty wall of mountain limestone rock, soaring to a height of about 2500 feet above the vale of Eden, and the level beds of red sand-stone deposited in later times at the foot of the ancient escarpment upon the relatively depressed portion of the same mountain limestone rocks.” ‘With this communicate two cross lines of dislocation, one of which, under the name of the main or ninety- fathom dike, passes eastward from Brampton to the coast near Tynemouth, depressing the strata to the north, whilst the other ranges east-south-east from Kirby-Lonsdale to Grassington in Wharfdale, and throws down to the south. We have now the first distinct appearance ofa portion of the land of Yorkshire above the waters of the primeval ocean. Round the base of the hills thus up- lifted were deposited the strata of magnesian limestone, which now form a narrow band from the Tees to the Don, to the east of the carboniferous rocks, the nearest point of which to our district may be seen about Tanfield and Monkton-moor. The stormhad rocked itself to rest, and a long period of almost uninterrupted calm next ensues. With the magnesian limestone, the primary series of rocks is closed and many of the older forms of life vanish away, no more to reappear. Paleosaurian period. Round the previously elevated lines of Paleozoic rock were slowy accumulated thick bands of arenaceous constitution, the particles of which are coated as with a red varnish by peroxide of iron. They are locally associated with beds of salt and gypsum, but for the rest, are remarkably uniform in character, whatever may be the nature of the anciently formed deposits they touch upon. These are the rocks of the Paleosaurian period, and compose what is einai called the new red sandstone formation. They are called “new” to distinguish them from the similar strata which succeed the Silurian and precede the Carbo- niferous epoch, from which they can scarcely be distinguished by any mineralogical character. In Yorkshire the new red sandstone occupies perhaps one-sixth part of the county. It extends from the Tees to the Humber, and ranges longitudinally, so as to form the broad central valley, usually denominated the Vale of York, which separates the eastern from the western ranges of hills. Our stream ; a 3 PHYSICAL HISTORY. 17 touches it below Knayton, and for the remainder of its course may be regarded as furnishing its eastern boundary, but everywhere it is more or less thickly overspread with diluvial clay and gravel. In this county, it is entirely destitute of fossils, but other parts of Britain yield a few, and its continental analogues, the Keuper, Muschelkalk, and Bunter sandstein, a more considerable number. Teleosaurvan period. The most prominent characteristic of the liassic era was the accumulation of an immense thickness of argil- laceous sediment. Covered generally with an oolitic cap, these deposits, at some points attaining a thickness of six hundred feet, with a single exception west of Whitby, where they are depressed below the surface by a fault, may be examined with unusual facility in the magnificent line of cliffs that guards our Yorkshire coast by way of Baytown, Hawsker, Kettleness, Staithes, Saltburn, and in the well known rocks which are exposed at low water in front of Redcar. Extending inland they attain an elevation of one thousand feet in Roseberry Topping, and of two hundred feet more in the hills on the south side of the vale of Leven, and form the general floor of the wide range of oolitic moorlands, spreading out beyond their base for a considerable surface in a low undulated tract to Stokesley, Thirsk, and Easingwold. Along most of the branches of the Esk, and in the depths of the western valleys of the Rye, (Snailesworth, Bilsdale, Bransdale, &c.,) they are ex- posed by denudation beneath superincumbent masses of oolite. From their most elevated point in Cleveland they dip towards the south at an average rate of about fifty feet per mile, and eastward at the rate of forty three feet. As it is developed in Yorkshire three principal divisions of the lias may be traced; Ist, The lower Inas Shale, a uniform mass of dark rather firm rock, varying from three hundred to five hundred feet in thickness, enclosing nodules of ferruginous and calcareous constitution, mixed in its lower part with rough sandy deposits. This bed is never worked for alum, and yields comparatively few fossils. 2nd, The Ironstone and Marlstone serves, one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet thick, consisting of highly arenaceous shales and laminated sandy lime- stones, succeeded above by several bands of nodular and stratified 3 | 18 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. ironstone of great commercial value. This is the bed which has been so much worked for iron lately in Cleveland and Eskdale. It yields abundance of fossil shells and beautiful specimens of corals, annulosa, and fishes. 38rd, The upper Iras Shale, fifty to two hundred feet in thickness, interspersed with layers of argillo- calcareous nodules, passing by gradual stages of transition to the lowest oolites above, and the last-mentioned series below. This is the bed which yields alum, and here may be found multitudes of Ammonites and conchiferous shells and occasionally jet, and the remains of gigantic Saurian Reptiles. "We may suppose the rocks of the Teleosaurian period to have been gradually deposited in the bed of an ocean removed from the influence of violent currents, so as to receive only those finer portions of matter which could be carried for a considerable distance without sinking to the bottom ; and that a gradual depression of the surface was all the while going forward, perhaps temporarily interrupted during the epoch of the formation of the central band, which as before stated, con- tains a large proportion of heavier sandy material. In our district the Lias is much overspread with diluvium and consequently cannot be examined so well as along the coast line and the edges of the Cleveland hills. Of its upper members fine sections may be seen by the stream side about Osmotherley, and in the cutting of the road between Mount St. John and Westow, an excellent ilius- tration of its eastward dip isexposed. The ironstone band enters the vale at Ingleby-cross, runs below Mount Grace and Osmotherley, curves past the end of Black Hambleton to Silton, and finally reaches Feliskirk and Sutton-under-Whitstonecliff. Megalosaurian period. In a commercial point of view the rocks of the Lower Oolite are infinitely the most important which the Vale of Mowbray furnishes; and, when the time arrives for the development of their metallic treasures, are destined to exert an influence upon the history of the district which at present we are scarcely prepared to appreciate. In 1854, they were surveyed by Professor Phillips, and the following summary of their character is quoted from his “ Manual of Geology.” 1. Calcareous shelly, partly oolitic ironstone, seven to twelve PHYSICAL HISTORY. 19 feet thick, twenty thousand tons per acre of good quality, over it in some places shale with a band of ironstone nodules. 2. Lower Sandstone. Sandstones, shales, ironstones (one three feet bed and several bands of nodules, all good in quality and mostly workable); bands of cement nodules, one bed of coal occa- sionally worked, three hundred and twenty feet. 3. Bath Oolite. Calcareous oolitic and shaly beds, with layers of shale and irony bands of different degrees of richness, not here workable, about thirty feet in all. 4. Upper Sandstone. Sandstones, shales, ironstones, and car- bonaceous bands, one layer of ironstone nodules very rich, no coal bed visible. Plants in some of the layers. Fine white arena- ceous freestone. Two hundred and fifty feet. 5. Cornbrash. Impure shelly limestone, barely traceable. Taken in connection with the lias, the lower oolite in north- east Yorkshire, occupies a total area of five hundred and fifty square miles. It fills up the higher levels of all the northern portion of the moorland district, dipping at length beneath the range of tabular hills of later formation which range eastward and west- ward from Hambleton-end to Scarborough. Of the steep western embankment it forms the greater proportion, and the edges of the upper part of all the dales which open out towards the south, and afterwards stretches towards the Derwent through the Howardian district, in a range of slightly elevated country, by way of Years- ley and Terrington. North of the Esk it attains an elevation of 1022 feet above the sea level in Roseberry Topping, 966 feet in Danby Beacon, and 784 feet in Eston Nab. In the more connected range south of the Esk, Burton Head reaches 1485 feet, and three other summits above the Leven exceed 1400 feet. In the How- ardian district 520 feet is the highest point. The strata of the Upper Oolite form the range of tabular hills to which allusion is made in the preceding paragraph. ‘They are usually furnished with a steep escarpment towards the north, form cliffs in the lower parts of almost all the southern dales, and rise gradually towards the west from an elevation of 300 to 1300 feet. The members of this formation, which shew themselves in 1 20 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. our special district, may be briefly characterised as follows :— 1. Kelloways or Hackness rock, calcareous sandstone, the upper beds very thick, indurated with admixture of iron, yielding a plentiful supply of fossil shells. Thickness about 50 feet. 2. Oxford Clay, a thick blue arenaceous clay, changing gradu- ally in composition to the beds above and below, with fossils as in the preceding. Thickness about 50 feet in our district. 3. Lower Calcareous Grit, gray marly sandstones, becoming yellower and more consolidated upwards till they assume a cherty character, topped with a bed of yellow sand, enclosing highly in- durated calcareous balls, and above strong calcareous sandstone of a reddish tint, with some fossils. 100 feet. 4. Coralline Oolite, oolitic limestone, with Corals, Sponges, and Shells. Extreme thickness 60 feet, but not reaching that in our district. These rocks form the cliffs of Boltby Scarr, Whitstonecliff, Rolston Scarr, and the cap of Hood Hill; and may be ex- amined favourably at any of these stations. Above Kilburn they may be seen dipping eastward at a steep angle of inclination. During the lapse of the Megalosaurian period, if we may judge from the manner in which calcareous, arenaceous, and argillaceous rocks alternate with one another, the sea bed must have been sub- jected to many elevations and depressions, but it would seem that these have been of a gradual rather than of a convulsive character. The beds of coal and thin carbonaceous partings interspersed amongst some of the lower sandstones, imply the vicinity of land ; and following on the track of Sir Roderick Murchison, some of members of the Thirsk Natural History Society have verified the existence of gigantic fossil Equiseta, in an upright position in the freestone quarries above Osmotherley. Amongst the deposits of Coralline Oolite, the bones of certain land lizards occur, but we have no grounds for surmising that these strata were as yet uplifted to any considerable height above the waters of the Mesozoic sea. After the close of the Oolitic era we find that a remarkable though perhaps only local elevation took place. At Bishop’s Wilton, in the East-Riding, the Lias and Oolite are bent into a a a eae ee ee ae aD 2 Le RED eae ee ee ne ae a UR ae I NO eee PSE ee a SB a aa Se ge -~ PHYSICAL HISTORY. 21 broad anti-clinal and dip from its axis, towards both north and south. Before the deposition of the superincumbent hills of Chalk, the surface must have been subjected to extensive denudation, for in some places both Teleosaurian and Megalosaurian deposits are entirely swept away, and the Chalk occurs in juxta-position with New Red Sandstone. Of the Mososaurian period or era of the Chalk, no monuments exist within the limits of our field of study, and with this closes the whole series of Secondary Strata. During the earlier ages of the Tertiary epoch, a considerable elevation of the surface must have taken place, probably of a gra- dual character. We now obtain a tolerably close approximation to the existing condition of things. On the east were uplifted the oolitic moorlands, and in an opposite direction rose the carbon- iferous hills, even as they now rise on the verge of our western horizon. Down the gills and dales flowed a multitude of streams to augment the waters of the sea which covered what is now the Vale of York. Over the lands thus separated, warmed with the fervour of a tropical sun, roamed species of Elephant, Hippopotamus, and Rhinoceros; in the caverns of the limestone lurked Hyaenas, Tigers, Bears, and Wolves—in fact a large num- ber of species identical with, or analogous to, those which now inhabit the earth, at this time first made their appearance. _ Glacial period. But again subsidence ensued, and hill tops be- came islands. Over the summit of the Pennine ridge, down the dale of the Greta, into the broad central valley, burst with irresistible force a tumultuous flood, crested with icebergs laden with the Granite of Shap-fell, the Hypersthene and Syenite of Carrock, the Slate of Grasmere and Ulswater. These rocks, especially the peculiar granitic boulders, may be traced all the way through the vales of York and Cleveland, to the foot of the Oolitic hills and the Wolds; and beyond them often reach even as far as the cliffs which margin the coast of Holderness. An idea of the waste to which the older formations were subjected by these violent waters may be gathered by observing the vast masses of diluvium that lie uppiled in the vicinity of Redcar, Whitby, and Scarborough. Everywhere, in the shape of confused heaps of gravel, sand, and SS SN A eS ge ee a = ee pe Ag A 22 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. clay, the deposits of this era overspread the lower levels. The animals and plants of the preglacial epoch, which were not destroyed, took refuge amongst the hills, and fresh ones were ereated to supply the place of those which this deluge annihilated. Since its subsidence, the marks of no considerable change in the relative positions of sea and land, can be traced. MINERALOGY. The three species of earths which principally enter into the composition of rocks, are, as everyone is familiar who has paid attention to the subject, Silica, Lime, and Alumina. Within the limits of our field of study, as may be gathered from the preceding sketch, almost all the ordinary stratified combina- tions of sandstones, limestones, and clays, may be found; but we will content ourselves with enumerating here the mineral products of the district which possess a more or less positive value in a commercial point of view. These are 1. The Ironstones of the Lias, and especially of the Lower Oolite, the latter stretching along the hill side all the way from Rolstone Scarr to Osmotherley and Arncliffe* (vide infra). * “The present make of iron in Britain amounts to about three millions of tons. But now that peace has been established, the more advanced nations of the world will be devoting their energies to the development of their material civilisation, and will consequently require additional supplies of iron to carry out their railway systems, and their gas and waterworks, their ships and house-buildings. They will require iron likewise for the supply of engines, machines, tools, implements, and the various other ways in whichit is employed. This commercial movement of the different countries of the world cannot take place without a constantly increasing supply of iren. It thus becomes an absolute necessity of expanding civilisation, and Great Britain is virtually the only country that is in a position to supply these new demands. The make of iron therefore must progress in a corresponding ratio and assume year after year greater and greater proportions. Taking the past history of the iron trade as a guide, these requirements within the next coming period of twenty years would certainly amount to six millions of tons, or just double the: present make, unless checked by the inability of ironmasters to supply the demand at moderate prices. But this will never be the case. For although the cost of making iron in South Staffordshire and Wales is scarcely covered at present by its relatively high price in the market, there are other localities in England so wonder- fully favoured by nature that iron can be made there with a profit of from 40s. to 50s. perton. This is an admitted fact with reference to North Yorkshire, where the plant and capital of the more enterprising ironmasters are in process of being gradually transferred, and there is no doubt whatever that in afew years this district will surpass all others in the importance of its make of iron, owing to the cheap and illimitable supply of excellent ores furnished by the Cleveland seam of lias and those PHYSICAL HISTORY. 23 2. Cement Stone, associated with the above in the lowest oolitic sandstone. 8. Building Stone, procurable from almost any bed of the Me- galosaurian period, especially the sandstones of the lower oolite. 4. Lime from the Bath Oolite, as worked at Thirlby and Cleves, and from the Coralline Oolite and Calcareous Grit, as at Kepwick Bank. 5. Coal of the lowest oolitic sandstone, but not to be expected anywhere except in very inconsiderable quantity. 6. Alum of the upper lias Shale, worked formerly at Silton, much more difficult to obtain than in Cleveland, on account of this bed running out southward, and growing more arenaceous in quality. 7. Clay of the glacial diluvium, manufactured into bricks at Carlton-moor and other places. 8. Gravel of the glacial diluyium, as dug in tlie quarry behind Norby, &c. : PALZONTOLOGY. Whilst enumerating, under the head of Ge- ology, the characters of each stratum, we have invariably made mention of the circumstance in those cases in which it has been ascertained to be fossiliferous; but as we hope to number amongst our readers some, at least, to whom paleontology is a novel ques- tion, we will devote a paragraph here to a general sketch of the vegetable and annimal life of the Mesozoic epoch. To the islands formed by the primary rocks more extended tracts of land were gradually united. The arborescent ferns which mainly supplied the coal beds of the carboniferous era, were replaced by new species and genera, and no longer composed the most considerable portion of the vegetation. In their place of the oolite, but above all that other still more important seam recently discovered in the dales of the eastern moorlands, lying on top of the alum shale, being calcareous in the Hambleton-hills near Thirsk, and magnetic in Rosedale. From these natural advantages and the vicinity of the great coal fields, the North Riding will be able to supply excellent iron equal to the enormous demand of the future, and at the same time much cheaper than any other district in England.”—Lziract from Mining Journal. 24 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. abundance of Cycadaceze and peculiar Coniferous trees formed dense forests on the borders of lakes, where luxuriated reed-like plants and sedges, and beds of monstrous Characez. Amongst the woods rolled the giant bodies of the Old World, gavials, lizards, and turtles, fluttered strange Ptero-dactyles like Brobdi- nagian bats; and in the more elevated grounds played colossal Opossums amongst fruticose Liliaceze. In the depths of the ocean swam shoals of fishes placoid and ganoid, on the margin of its shores flourished Crustacea, Annelida, Zoophytes radiate and bryozoid, floated sea-urchins, Ammonites, bivalve and univalve Mollusca, in countless myriads; whilst amidst its broad lagoons, half-fish, half-lizard, disported themselves huge Icthyosauri and Plesiosauri, and as the Laureate sings, ** Were lords and masters of earth. For them did the high sun flame and the river billowing ran, And they felt themselves in their force to be Nature’s crowning race.” The following table, which is taken from Phillips’ “ Manual of Geology,” shews the number of fossil species which have been found in different parts of Yorkshire, and the proportion the quan- tity each deposit contains bears to its thickness. THE PALZONTOLOGY OF YORKSHIRE. y * S T . * ey ae ees Thickness | No. of iossil| Proportion of in feet. Species. species to feet. Chalk “ ay - 500 | 43 1 to 12 Gault and Kiinmeridge diay ee va 150 72 Bee Upper calcareous grit .. ™ 60 5 1 ae _ Coralline oolite .. =. ss “ 60 125 a | Lower calcareous grit .. ai 80 48 de eye? Oxfordclay .. fe ae 150 36 hi gs eh Kelloways rock .. - ae 40 60 = ee i Cornbrash ae ’ ix 9) 37 Geitod Upper carbonaceous aa stone ni 200 30 a eee Bath oolite i a eey A at 82 ete E Lower carbonaceous See a 500 2I Lies C8 Lower oolite .. vs ie Ss 60 91 ee 7 Bds** 5. E : pa at 850 115 Be eid New red soesiiicii sf ia bs 1000 none Magnesian limestone we ds 215 30 Riviere Coalsystem .. ee == ate 3000 100? 1 .. 30 Mountain limestone ae c 2500 400 Lilies), 6 Silurian .. Sanh ok ue bic 6000 20 1 .. 300 Ce ee ee ee PHYSICAL HISTORY. 25 PuysicaL GEOGRAPHY AND Botany. Given a correct know- ledge of the Geology of a district, and it is very easy to compre- hend its Physical Geography. Itis not difficult to understand why such is the case when we reflect that the surface has everywhere been subjected to the long continued influence of watery action, and that its configuration is mainly due to the resisting force of the subjacent material. Nowhere better than in Yorkshire can the application of this general principle be traced. The hard rocks (limestones and consolidated sandstones) form the hills, and the softer strata (shales and less consolidated arenaceous deposits) the valleys and lower levels. This holds good, not only as a general rule, but with reference to the minutie of every indivi- dual feature. On the sea coast the promontories are composed of hard and the bays of softer rock. The dales are contracted be- tween cliffs in hard and widened into expanded hollows in softer strata: on the hills the more consolidated deposits form projecting edges, and the looser formations are hollowed into concave sur- faces. For an illustration of this we need not travel further than to examine the condition of the Scar on the hill side just above us. The the White mare cliff is composed of calcareous gritstone, the upper portion of much harder composition than the lower. The consequence of the unequal durability of its constituent materials is, that the lower part wastes away beneath the abrading influence of the atmosphere, with considerably greater rapidity than the upper, and a ledge projects till it is loosened by rain and the frosts of winter, and then falls down and strews the steep. embankment, with fragments of fallen boulders. Or visit one of the picturesque waterfalls of Upper Wensleydale, Hardraw force for instance. The upper part of the waterfall is guarded by a durable ledge of limestone: the lower part is formed of wasting argillaceous beds. The shale wastes: the limestone falls: and the place of the waterfall is gradually removed further and further back, till at length a tortuous avenue of lofty cliffs leads into the mountain for a considerable distance before we reach the actual eataract. This fact—that materials of unequal durability waste 26 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. unequally—is the fundamental one which it is needful to bear in mind in considerations of this nature. Under this head we propose to trace, first the outline of the hills, and afterwards to follow the course of the streams, glancing | aside for awhile as we pass from one station to another, to notice the characteristic features of the phanerogamic and cryptogamic vegetation. Passing along in a direct line, the table land of the moorlands declines gradually from north to south. Hambleton end is 1300 feet above the level of the sea, Kepwick Bank 1246 feet, Limekiln House 1148 feet, Boltby Scarr 1075, Whitstonecliff 1056 feet, Rolston Scarr 950 feet, and turning eastward, Olstead Bank attains 954 feet, and Wass Bank 900. Owing to the eastward dip of the strata the summit of drainage is not far from the em- bankment that overlooks the central valley. None of the feeders of Codbeck penetrate the upper oolite, but each of the opposite branches of the Rye flows at the bottom of a dale varying in length from one mile to four, excavated through the calcareous strata with singular abruptness, the edges of which are frequently margined with scars and clothed with picturesque woods. Of these, the head of Yowlasdale opposite Boltby, is about half-a-mile from the western edge of the range. This valley is one of the best lecalities in North Yorkshire for those plants which require the dry character of habitation which limestones best afford. Here grows abundance of Actea spicata, on the edge of woods blue with wild columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris), fringed with Campa- nula glomerata, Geranium sanguineum, and Spire Filipendula ; and concealing in their hidden recesses the lurid berries of the deadly nightshade (Atropa Belladonna). Interspersed amongst the thickets may be found Rhamnus catharticus, Rosa Sabini, R. tomentosa, Viola hirta, Hypericum hirsutum, and Lithospermum officinale, and sometimes straggling plants of Epipactis ensvfolia : and by the stream below flourishes Parnassia palustris, Schenus nigricans, and a profuse growth of bog mosses, Hypnum commu- tatum, H. stellatum, Bartramia fontana, and Bryum ventricosum. The vale of Arden to the north is broader and less sylvan in PHYSICAL HISTORY. 27 character than Yowlasdale, but either of them is quite steep enough to yield a tough climb on a warm summer’s day. The range of the table land from Hambleton-end to Rolston Scarr, intersected with walls of rudely piled rock, lichen stained and weather-beaten, is brought under cultivation in some places, but a greater part still remains in a state of nature. The drier parts are covered with a close thin sward of slippery bent (Juncus squarrosus), and wiry grass (Festuca ovina, Agrostis vulgaris, Nardus stricta, Aira flexuosa, Kelerva cristata, and Triodia de- -cumbens), which yields pasturage for flocks of black-faced sheep, and a fine coursing ground for the horses of the training estab- lishments. Miles upon miles, bleak and desolate, are clothed with undulated forests of ling (Calluna vulgaris), and heather (Erica Tetraliz and cinerea), intermixed with bilberry bushes and crowberry bushes ( Vaccinium Myrtillus and Empetrum nigrum) sedge (Scirpus cespitosus), and cotton grass (Eriophorum angus- tifolum and vaginatum). In the damper parts and under the shade of these, luxuriate multitudes of mosses and lichens, a sam- ple of which the following list will give. Sphagnum cymbifolium. Polytrichum commune. pai acutifolium. a juniperinum, fe cuspidatum. v2 piliferum. Dicranum heteromallum. Aulacomnium palustre. 1» __ palustre. Bryvm nutans. a scoparium. Hypnum stellatum. Leucobryum glaucum. = cuspidatum., Ceratodon purpureus. a purum. Campylopus flexuosus. i Schreberi. _ Racomitrium canescens. is splendens. gs lanuginosum. ee squarrosum., Pogonatum urnigerum. - fluitans. Cetraria aculeata. mS cupressiforme. ie Islandica. Cladonia furcata. Cladonia uncialis, x cornucopioides. ” rangariferina. ” gracilis. © > pyxidata. The direct continuity of the embankment is broken by four spurs of oolite, Which spread out westward from the principal Ne eee a Oe te a RS 28 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. body of moorland. The first of these is a steep narrow ridge at the northern extremity of our district, that is separated from the main hill by a gill called Scarth nick, which contains at opposite ends the sources of both Codbeck and the Leven. Amongst the thick hanging woods of the western side of this ridge are the ruins of the priory of Mount Grace, and beneath it the springs which feed the head of the sluggish Wiske. Amongst the moorlands about a couple of miles to the east, rises the river Rye, and the four streams flow respectively south-west, north, due west, and south-east. The second spur is a broad elevated moor that stretches from Hambleton-end, between the valleys of Codbeck proper and Borrowby beck, to overhang the villages of Thimbleby, Silton, and Kepwick. At its eastern extremity grow Tetraplodon mni- oides and Orthotrichum Hutchinsie. On the west and souta it is flanked by two peculiar rounded knolls called Silton Nab and Kepwick Nab, the latter of which produces an abundant supply . of Viola lutea. Between the upper parts of Borrowby beck and Islebeck, over Cowsby, Kirby Knowle (so called from another of these peculiar Knolls in front of it), Westow, and Raventhorp, projects Blackmoor, a favourite muscological station. From its extremity, in a south-western direction, extends the gradually declining ridge of Mount St. John, which finally sinks into the valley by the liassic escarpment of Clump Bank*. Another mass of lower oolite, insulated from Blackmoor by a narrow hollow, stretches out towards Upsal, Knayton, and New Buildings. Op- posite the southern extremity of the main range, Hood Hill is covered with a cap of upper oolite. Viewed from Gormire it is roundish in shape and abrupt in ascent, but in a south-western * ** A gentle hill, Green and of mild declivity: the last As ’twere the cape of a long ridge of such, Save that there is no sea to lave its base, But a most living landscape and the wave Of woods and corn fields and the abodes of men Scattered at intervals. * = od ba * Crowned with a peculiar diadem Of trees in circular array, so placed Not by the sport of nature but of man.” BYRON. PHYSICAL HISTORY. 29 direction it is prolonged towards Thirkleby and Carlton Husth- waite, and declines gradually into the valley. According to the late Archdeacon Peirson the thicket which contains the source of Kilburn beck, produces Ranunculus Lingua. The calcareous rocks of the hill top are the only station in our district yet ascer- tained for Tortula aloides. Except where these spurs project, the hills sink into the valley at a single bold sweep when we reach the edge of the calcareous strata. The effect of this abruptness is to cause them, as viewed from below, to assume the appearance of a considerably greater elevation than in reality they attain. The upper oolite projects principally at three prominent points between Blackmoor and the hill-end, at which it forms the romantic scars of Boltby, Whitstonecliff, and Rolston. The plants which specially characterise the calcareous rocks are the following. They are mostly found not only upon the cliffs im széu, but also upon the fallen fragments. Helianthemum vulgare. Avena pratensis. Arabis nirsuta. _ Tortula tortuosa. Anthyllis Vulneraria. Encalypta streptocarpa. Geranium sanguineum. “ vulgaris. Scabiosa columbaria. Orthotrichum anomalum. Hieracium murorum. 3 cupulatum. Carlina vulgaris. Trichostomum flexicaule. Gentiana Amarella. Anomodon viticulosum. Neckera crispa. Upon a clear day the view from the hill top is very extensive. The summit of Whitstonecliff is perhaps the most favourable point that can be selected. At our feet is the formidable precipice, scarcely changed in character (for even the maritime lichens, hardened in consistency till they are almost as firm as the very stone they grow upon, still encrust it) since it breasted the waves and broke the spray of that tumultuous glacial sea. Five hundred feet lower lies Gormire, shrunk in its dimensions by the,distance from the size of a lake to that of a duck pond; between them the steep hill side, with its forest of oak and hasel, birch, and ash, its impenetrable thickets of bramble and blackthorn, its fallen piles, 30 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. confusedly upheaped of massive and angular rock. In front, over the diversified tract of lower oolite and lias, with its scattered hamlets and undulated woodlands, lies the central valley, broad, fertile, and well cultivated; here the line of the railway marked by the steam of an engine; there in the far south you may distin- guish the place of York by the spire of its minster; on the western horizon spreads the range of carboniferous hills, the huge bulk of Penhill guarding Wensleydale like a barrier ; on the south over the moors of Colsterdale, the peak of Whernside, with perhaps the evening sun sinking * behind it through masses of golden * Composed after a journey across the Hambleton Hills. ‘** Dark and more dark the shades of evening fell, . The wished-for point was reached, but late the hour, _ And little could be gained from all that dower Of prospect, whereof many thousands tell: Yet did the glowing west in all its power Salute us :—there stood Indian citadel, Temple of Greece, and minster with its tower Substantially expressed. A place for bell Or clock to toll from. Many a tempting isle With groves that never were imagined, lay ?Midst seas how steadfast ! objects for the eye Of silent rapture: but we felt the while We should forget them : they are of the sky, And from our earthly memory fade away.” WORDSWORTH. Or as the less subjective muse of a local poet has treated the scene under another aspect. ** Stand on the mountain’s topmost brow, And cast a glance on all around, The steep hill side is clad with snow, A snowy shroud enwraps the ground; Look near or far, a changeless hue Of dazzling whiteness meets the view. The firs that crest each darksome glade, Are in the self-same garb arrayed ; Their leafless branches spreading wide, Sway with the wind from side to side, Which from the far and frozen North, Rushes in gusts and eddies forth, Whistling amongst the leafless trees, Moaning by every crag and scar, Attracting every wandering breeze b To join the elemental war: The rocks in wild confusion tost, Slippery with ice and hoar with frost, | PHYSICAL HISTORY. | 31 edged purple stained cumuli, and in the far distance over the valleys of the Swale, the Greta, the Balder, and the Lune, we catch a glimpse of the summit where Micklefell reigns supreme over the scars and magnificent cataracts of Teesdale. In the clefts of the rocks, and amongst the shaded sylvan re- cesses of the hill side, occur a considerable number of ferns. Polypodium vulgare. “ Phegopteris. % Dryopteris. Cystopteris fragilis. Aspidium aculeatum. »» angulare. Lastrea Oreopteris. », Filix-mas. ey dilatata. Athyrium Filix-feemina. Fe rheticum. iE molle. Asplenium Trichomanes. ag Ruta-muraria. Pteris aquilina. The following are the most remarkable flowering plants which the embankments produce :— Ranunculus auricomus. Cardamine sylvatica. Arabis thaliana. Drosera rotundifolia. Sagina apetala. », nodosa. ' Cerastium arvense. Malva moschata. Hypericum hirsutum. Geranium lucidum. Prunus Padus. Geum rivale. Rubus rhamnifolius. », Guntheri. », foliosus. Sanicula europcea. Asperula odorata. Lactuca muralis. Crepis paludosa. Gnaphalium sylvaticum. Hieracium boreale. Pyrola minor Veronica montana. »» . Officinalis. Melampyrum pratense. Teucrium Scorodonia. Origanum vulgare. Allium ursinum. Luzula sylvatica. », pilosa. The lakelet with its frozen dome, In short where’er your glances roam, Whether you look abroad or nigh, . At the barren earth or the leaden sky, You gather from every sight or sound, That meets the eye or that strikes on the ear That winter is spreading his chains around, And waving aloft his sceptre drear.”” | / - Adiantum-nigrum. Scolopendrium vulgare. Blechnum boreale. — Ki 74 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Narthecium ossifragum. Luzula multiflora. Epilobium montanum. Melica uniflora. Circza lutetiana. Festuca bromoides. Saxifraga granulata. _ Avena precox. The hollow which Gormire fills up, has been formed by a slip of | the lower oolite, at a period very recent in a geological point of view. On the side nearest Whitstonecliff there is a peculiar -swallow-hole,” like those so common in the mountain limestone tract, into which in time of flood the superfluous waters pour, but with very trivial exception the lake is supplied by rain and drained by evaporation. Favoured by its comparative stillness, vast beds of Ranunculus aquatilis, Myriophyllum alternifiorum, Potamogeton heterophyllus, and prelongus increase and multiply. On the edge nearest Thirlby, is the rock where Mr. Borrer first discovered in Britain Brywm torquescens. The north-east corner is choked with Equisetum limosum and Menyanthes trifolrata, and yields also Scirpus fluitans, Heliosciadum inundatum, Scutellaria galericulata, “an Epilobium supposed to be a novelty for which Mr. Baker has suggested the specific name ligulatum,” Lysemachia thyrsifiora, Sphagnum contortum, Hypnum cordifolium, and abun- dance of Prlularia globulifera. There is another smaller lake immediately below a cliff of lower oolite on the edge of Blackmoor, formed in a similar manner within the memory of man, which will repay the trouble of a visit. With a list of the principal Mosses and Hepatice of their em- bankments we will bid farewell to the hills. The best muscolo- gical localities they afford are, the lower part of the bank below Rolston Scarr (where may be found Anodus Donanus, Tortula marginata, Hypnum pumilum and H. depressum,) and the woods on the west side of Blackmoor, between Kirby Knowle and Westow (the station for Hypnum heteropterum, H. pratense and Mastigobryum trilobatum). Seligeria recurvata. Isothecium myurum. Dicranum pellucidum. a myosuroides. * fuscescens. Hypnum plumosum. a majus. ” populeum. coptsnalinin amen | PHYSICAL HISTORY. 33 _ Campylopus torfaceus. Hypnum loreum. Trichostomum rigidulum. e undulatum. Tortula convoluta. e sylvaticum. Schistidium apocarpum. i elegans. Orthotrichum Bruchii. 3 molluscum, 4 crispum. Plagiochila spinulosa. x leiocarpum. Lepidozia reptans. Pogonatum aloides. | Calypogeia Trichomanis. a. Ranum. Frullania Tamarisci. Bryum pallens. Jungermannia barbata. a Death. | i excisa. 5, ~~ pseudo-trigetrum. ze - albicans. Mnium punctatum. - bicuspidata. Physcomitrium ericetorum. Scapania nemorosa. Bartramia fontana. 7 »» undulata. oe. pomiformis. ' Fissidens incurvus. It is scarcely needful to explain that any tract of country con- sists, physically speaking, of a series of concave basins, each of which will invariably rise in level, gradually or suddenly as the case may be, from the line of its stream to the line of its summit of drainage. Of its general configuration and the relative position of the different parts and points of its surface a far better idea is given by a map than can possibly be conveyed by the most elabo- rate description. For this reason we will content ourselves with tracing here in a very cursory way the course of the streams which water the Vale of Mowbray, and will ask our readers to seek whatever additional information they require by consulting the map which has been prepared to illustrate the present volume, or better still, those just published by the Ordnance Survey on the scale of six inches to a mile, which, in point of completeness and accuracy, leave nothing further to be desired. The main branch of Codbeck rises in the gill previously mentioned, called Scarth nick, a long bleak treeless hollow with abrupt edges. Upon the walls and rocks in this glen, grow Umbilicaria polyphylla, Grom- mia trichophylla, and Hedwigia ciliata, and in the freestone quarry which produces the fossil Equiseta, Bryum cernuum and B. inter- medium. After following three miles due south, passing the D 34 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. village of Osmotherley and receiving various small feeders from the moorlands, the stream enters the upper lias shale and curves towards the west, between steep aluminaceous banks. After cross- ing the road that leads from Thirsk to Yarm and Stokesley, below Ellerbeck it again assumes its original direction, and maintains a more or less undeviating southern flow for the fifteen miles of the remainder of its course. Passing Kirby Sigston and Crosby, be- tween Brawith and Thornton-le-street it is joined by an affluent from Borrowby and Knayton, with two branches on the north respectively from Over and Nether Silton, and one on the south from Cowsby. Near Silton grows Iris fetidissima, and by the side of this stream near its source on the edge of Hambleton-end — Lycopodium selaginoides and fine Bartramia calearea, Sphagnum laxifolium and Bryum pseudo-triquetrum. Three miles lower down, near North Kilvington, Codbeck is joined by a little branch that rises amongst the woods of Mount St. John, and flows past Kilvington Hall and the hamlet of Thornborough. Amongst the sylvan recesses that shade the western escarpment of the lower oolite may be found G'agea lutea, Lathrea squamaria and Hypnum depressum ; inthe boggy ground below arethe two Golden Saxifrages and forests of Equisetum Telmateva. In fields by the water side _ at Thornborough and North Kilvington Narcissus incomparabilis, N. pseudo-narcissus, N. bifiorus, and Geranium pheum are natu- ralised. Between South Kilvington and Thirsk grow the following willows. Salix pentandra. Salix Forbyana. », fragilis. >» rebra. »» Russelliana. », Viminalis. », decipiens. »» Smithiana. vs alba. », rugosa. » undulata. », ferruginea. trianora. »» cinerea. 57 (0 Helix. », aquatica. »5 rubra. », Oleifolia. »,. Capres. Whitelass Beck rises on the edge of the liassic escarpment near Grizzlefield, and joins the main stream at the bottom of the peer re enemas pearemen Pemee: LL CL LL OL LLLL D LL e e e PHYSICAL HISTORY. 30 Holmes, and another little branch from Bagby falls into it, a short distance to the north of where its waters are augmented by the more considerable addition of Islebeck, from Boltby, Thirlby, and Sutton-under- Whitstonecliff. The gill where this last mentioned stream takes its rise amongst the recesses of Blackmoor is one of the finest little glens of the oolitic moorlands; and, for a muscologist, is perhaps the most favourable station in the whole range of our district. Its banks, steep and treacherously boggy at first, lower down are shaded by trees and underwood, and interspersed with scattered rocks. At the bottom winds the rivulet, bounding from ledge to ledge of its stony channel in miniature cascades, or where the surface slopes more gradually, rippling noisily over the pebbles, till at length, at a distance of about a couple miles from its head, the glen opens out at Boltby into the level country. The following species are its most remarkable botanical productions. Viola palustris. Bryum Wahlenbergii. Vaccinium Vitis-idea. Hookeria lucens. Primula farinosa. _ Hypnum flagellare. Trientalis europea. os crassinervium. Sphagnum subsecundum. ” scorpioides. Weissia verticillata. ‘ commutatum. Dicranum squarrosum. condensatum. Racomitrium heterostichum. piaadaetiiins Ehrharti. Tetraphis pellucida. Scapania compacta. Tetradontium Brownianum. Chiloscyphus pallescens. Polytrichum formosum. Ptilidium ciliare. Fissidens adiantoides. Trichocolea tomentella. This brook flows 8.S.W. for about eight miles, and then turns suddenly towards the north-west, and joins Codbeck below the village of Dalton, and after a circuitous route of three miles more the united streams pour their waters into the Swale. The following two lists contain the rarer flowering plants and mosses which the level country produces, the first of them the aboriginal natives, the second what are called by geographical botanists, colonists, denizens, and aliens, species introduced by the intervention of human agency through the medium of agricultural and horticul- tural operations. 36 I. Myosurus minimus. Ranunculus fluitans. ef hirsutus. Nuphar lutea. Cardamine amara. Turritis glabra. Nasturtium terrestre: ea amphibium. Sisymbrium Sophia. Reseda lutea. Cerastium aquaticum. Rhamnus catharticus. Trifolium arvense. Vicia sylvatica. Rubus affinis. », thyrsoideus. 3, mucronatus. 5) sprengelii. », Leightonii. os . Radula. »» rosaceus. Epilobium roseum. Scleranthus annuus. Ribes alpinum. Parnassia palustris. Pimpinella magna. Torilis infesta. Hieracium tridentatum. Gymnostomum tenue. Tortula levipila. ip latifolia. Cinclidotus fontinaloides. Orthotrichum tenellum. is Spruce. es stramineum. Zygodon viridissimus. Leptobryum pyriforme. Bryum intermedium. »» inclinatum. »» obconicum. THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Serratula tinctoria, Bidens tripartita. Erigeron acris. Senecio erucifolius. Matricaria Chamomilla. Anthemis arvensis. _ Hyoscyamus niger. Veronica polita. Rhinanthus major. Orobanche minor. Calamintha Acinos. Galeopsis versicolor. Nepeta Cataria. Hottonia palustris. Atriplex deltoidea. Polygonum laxum. Daphne Laureola. Orchis ustulata. Allium oleraceum. Colchicum autumnale. Potamogeton densus. te pectinatus. Juncus diffusus. », obtusiflorus. Carex intermedia. Glyceria plicata. RS aquatica. Fissidens crassipes. Leskea polyantha, Hypnum glareosum. os albicans. ti rivulare. os Teesdalii. a fluviatile. 7 polygamum. Cryphea heteromalla. Jungermannia curvifolia. Lophocolea Hookeriana. Pellia calycina. es ca be a ea es OR Lt ON A ee _ Mnium cuspidatum. ” rostratum. a affine. II. Delphinium Ajacis. Eranthis hyemalis. Corydalis solida. Thlaspi arvense. Armoracia rusticana. Camelina fetida. Alyssum calycinum. Cheiranthus Cheiri. Sinapis nigra. PHYSICAL HISTORY. Blasia pusilla. Galium tricorne. Barkhausia setosa. Carduus Marianus. Doronicum Pardalianches. Specularia Speculum. Collomia grandiflora. Verbascum virgatum. Veronica Buxbaumbii. Linaria Cymbalaria. 37 Mentha viridis. - Borago officinalis Anchusa sempervirens. Ornithogalum umbellatum. Phalaris canariensis. Bromus arvensis. secalinus. Saponaria officinalis. Silene noctifiora. »» anglica. _ Tilia parvifolia. Medicago sativa. Melilotus vulgaris. Berberis vulgaris. ee Lonicera Xylosteum. ZooLoGy.— With reference to the zoology of the district, it is not our intention here to enter into the detail of minutia. Even were we to give lists of the species which have been ascertained to inhabit it, as a general rule the station where an animal, of the higher grades of organisation at least, has been noticed, can only be visited with a very faint expectation that it will again present itself. To the ornithologist or entomologist, the exposed heathery downs of the upland, the woods and shaded thickets of the hill slopes, the meadows and cultivated fields of the level country; furnish a range of situation, which, gun in hand or net of green gauze floating banner-like in the breezes, it is surely his own fault if he traverse in vain. To the conchologist, to the icthyologist, scientific or non-scientific, the examination of the streams, the lake (sole claimant of that honourable title) and even of the ponds and ditches, amply deserves attention more complete, and investigation more systematically conducted, than any they have yet received. The following list contains the local mollusca, terrestral and fluviatile. 38 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Neritina fluviatilis. Succinea putris. Bithinia tentaculata. Bulimus obscurus. Valvata piscinalis. Zua lubrica. Arion ater. Azeca tridens. », hortensis. Pupa umbilicata. Lunax maximus. »» Mmarginata. »» flavus. Vertigo edentula. 5, agrestis. Clausilia bidens. », brunneus. »» nigricans. 5, arboreus. Carychium minimum. Vitrina pellucida. Limneus auricularius. Helex aspersa. ” pereger. », hortensis. < stagnalis. ») dhybrida....,; sa palustris. »» nemoralis. me truncatulus. », arbustorum. no glaber. », lapicida. Ancylus fluviatilis. >, pulchella. Velletia lacustris. », Cantiana. Physa fontinalis. »» fulva. Aplexus hypnorum. », aculeata. Planorbis corneus. »» granulata. Be albus. », hispida. ‘se marginatus. », rufescens. 7 spirorbis. », virgata. rr contortus. 5» caperata. 5 imbricatus. 9» ericetorum. Cyclas cornea. Zonites rotundatus. | Pisidium pulchellum. ey umbilicatus. “ amnicum, », alliarius. Anodon cygneus, » cellarius. Unio pictorum. sain, pare. : - nitidulus. es lucidus. Me crystallinus. CLIMATOLOGY.—With reference to the climatological depart- ment of our physique, more precise information is also greatly to be desired. Itis much to be wished that some one who is favour- ably situated for observation, would undertake to collect and register a series of data relative to the temperature, winds, and rainfall of two or three well selected stations in the district. So PHYSICAL HISTORY. 39 far as we can judge by the medium of the periodic phenomena of vegetation, the climate of the new red sandstone tract closely cor- responds with that of York. The following table, compiled after Phillips, shews the average temperature at York of each of the months of the year, the average number of days in each during which the thermometer sinks below freezing point in the shade, and the average quantity of rain that falls during each. : he average Fr is sara of = _ " eet averag i ing whi verage rain ee Gepeatince. ih ang feaeng in faidiaahe sinks below freezing point. 1 January.. us 34.8 17 1°7024 ' 2 February .. e 37°3 18 15380 3 March .. - 40-7 12 1-4872 4 April aa a 76 8 1°6848 ot an af 54°5 Cae 1-9820 6 June.. = op 99°2 2°0516 oy. es 62-0 2°6436 8 August ae ae 61°1 2°4388 9 September - 55°7 1-7684 10 October... = 48:2 ; 2 2°7036 11 November “s 40°9 8 1°9920 12 December .. os 36°0 16 1-9000 Average - 48:2 1-9910 The following table gives the summary of seven years observa- tion at York, of the relative prevalence of the different winds and their average temperature at 8 o'clock a.m. N.W. 4 Direction of Wind ae N. bee | Ss. | SB. | a ee a Wears)... 49°8 [ts ae a seven| 34) | 361 | 273 | 342 | 376 | 767 abetate aie | tot | rr | a5, 455 | 50 ‘4 | 04] a0 | a4 | 45°4 Its eae aes at) 45-7 | 462 | 435 | 4V7 3 48 4 The rule given by Dr. Dalton for calculating the average annual temperature of elevated points, was to deduct one degree for every hundred yards of elevation. If we follow this estimate and place the isotherm of Thirsk at 48 degrees, that of Sutton, Thirlby, and | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 40 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Thimbleby, will be about 47, of the hill sides 46 or 45, and of the hill tops from 44 to 45, but so many influences affect the tempe- rature that this must only be accepted as a vague approximation in default of positive and definite data. And between the different points of the district there will be a considerably greater variation in the monthly means than in the average of the whole year, for the moorlands retard the season at places in their proximity by giving out in spring the cold they have absorbed in winter, and by giving out in autumn the heat they have absorbed in summer. | THIRSK. 41 THIRSK. THIRSK is a parliamentary borough and market town, in the wapontake of Birdforth, and North Riding of the county of York, two hundred and twenty miles north of London, one hundred and seventy-nine south of Edinburgh, twenty-three from York, eleven from Boroughbridge and Ripon, and nine from Northallerton. Though probably of British origin, we know nothing of this place before the Norman Conquest. Before that period all is con- jecture and uncertainty. The name, anciently written Tresche,* _ * The name is unique in Britain, and has been differently written Tresche, Tresch, Treske, Trescke, Thresk, Thrusk, Thryske, Thrysk, Thirske, and lastly Thirsk. ** Tre” is a very common affix to the names of Welsh and Cornish towns. Of personal appellations derived from this town, we give the following examples. Nigel de Mowbray granted to the Hospital of St. Leonard’s, thirty-two acres of meadow in Cave, together with Swain, son of Dune de Tresch, with his toft and croft, and two oxgangs of land. From March, 1331, to 13th September, 1369, John de Thresk was prior of Newburgh. In 1442, John Thrusk or Thirsk, was lord mayor of York, and again in 1462. He was mayor of the Staple at Calais, and treasurer there the same year ; he was a great merchant, and dwelt in Hungate. The same person represented York in parliament in 1448, and 1450. A tenement in Hungate, the which John Thirske some time dwelt in, and an obit founded by him for the celebration of mass in the church of St. John, Hungate, are mentioned in the corporation records of that city. From 1526 to 1537, William de Thirske was Abbot of Fountains. Of the early life of this ecclesiastic we know nothing. In 1523 we find him admitted B.D. of Oxford, as William de Thirsk. In 1526, he was raised to the dignity of abbot of Fountains, where he began a career of profligate libertinism and shameless dis- honesty. In consequence of which he was degraded from his office of abbot, and shortly afterwards, along with the prior of Bridlington and the abbot of Jervaux, _ took part in the insurrection called the Pilgrimage of Grace, was taken prisoner, and hanged at Tyburn in January, 1537. sy 42 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. is probably derived from the British words “ Tre,” a town, and “Esch,” water—the town by the water, which applies to its situ- ation on both sides of the river Codbeck.* When the Brigantes, most numerous and powerful of the tribes of Britain, held sway over the north of England, a few hunters and shepherds probably settled here, chased the game through the wooded dells of the Vale of Mowbray, drove their herds to drink the streams of “ cold water,” and cultivated small patches of ground in the fruitful fields of Sowerby In process of itime the victorious legions of Rome broke the strength of the “ blue shielded Brigantes,” and the aboriginal races submitted to the conquerors, or fled to the mountain fastnesses. The masters of the world, however, built no town upon this spot, nor are we aware that any indicia have been discovered of permanent Roman occupation. The remains of the road from York by way of Easingwold to Northallerton, which either passed through, or very near Thirsk, is sufficient proof that this place was not unknown to that people. Of Saxon and Danish occupation we have most decisive proof in the personal appearance and language of the population. At length the Norman Conqueror came, and from the survey made by his order, we have the first written record of the existence of Thirsk. Under the head of “ Lands of the king in Yorkshire,” we find the following entry. “Manor. In Tresche, Orm had eight carucates to be taxed. Land to four ploughs, twenty shillings.” f Again under the head of “ Land of Hugh the son of Baldric, North Riding. Gerlestre Wapontake,” we find ‘“ Manor. In Tresch, Tor had twelve carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to six ploughs, Hugh has there ten villanes having two ploughs, and eight acres of meadow. Value in king Edward’s time four pounds, now ten shillings. * From ‘*Cowde,” cold, and **beck,”’ a brook—the cold brook. There is a river in Normandy called Caudebec: beneath the heights of Alma runs Balbec, or the tiver of Baal, so that the term beck, designates a small river, in countries far apart. + Bawdwen’s Dom. Boe, p. 26, THIRSK. 43 -Berewicks. In Thorp and Newsham eight carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to four ploughs. They are now waste. The whole manor two miles long and one mile broad.” * Thus it will be seen that about the year 1086, or nearly 800 years ago, there were two manors in Thirsk, one held by the king, the other by one of his nobles, and that together they consisted of twenty carucates,t or about 2400 acres, and that the annual value of the whole was but thirty shillings. Neither church, castle, nor priest, existed here at that time, and the number of houses did not perhaps exceed a dozen, and the whole population was prebably not more than sixty. Imagination may picture to itself a few hovels built of sticks and mud, the roofs thatched with straw and ling confusedly scattered on the banks of Codbeck, probably where Old Thirsk now stands. What an immense difference be- tween the state of the country then and now! At that time the greatest part of it would be a thick oaken wood, the haunt of wolves, wild cats, badgers, and pine martins ; the town, a mere ham- let of serfs and villians, herdsmen and hunters, now we see a busy, thriving market town, with the country around it cultivated like agarden. The large landed estates of the Norman barons have since been subdivided, and the parish of Thirsk now contains more land owners than all Yorkshire did at the time when Domesday book was compiled, for then there were but twenty-nine land owners in the whole county, possessing among them nearly four millions of acres of land. | Soon after the general survey we find Thirsk, and a great part of the surrounding country, in the hands of Robert de Mowbray; the lands of the king, the earl of Morton, and Hugh the son of Baldric, all merged into one vast fief to support the dignity of this powerful noble. Roger de Mowbray, father of Robert, came over with the Con- * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc, p. 197. + The carucate or carve of land, is an uncertain measure, differing in different counties, yet generally containing from one hundred to one hundred and twenty acres. Bede calls a ploughland (or carucate) familia, and says it is as much as will Maintain a family. Equivalent to about 156/. at present. nnn tr ee ee te ere es ee ne eS a a Ge re TL CN SA ATER CaN A DC A Ae EI nanotech rata athena eaaemthaa aaa aps opines ~ A 44. THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. queror, and shared the danger and glory of the battle of Beatties. His name is found in the roll of the conquerors which was supended in Battle Abbey, and appears in every other roll which tale to give the names of the leaders of the invading Norman army.* His son Robert was a personage of great importance during the reign of William Rufus. The first action in which we find him engaged was in the year 1088, when Odo, bishop of Bayaux, entered into a conspiracy with divers of the Norman nobility, to exclude Rufus from the throne of England, and place his brother Robert thereon. Mowbray, in conjunction with his uncle the bishop of Constance, obtained possession of the town of Bath and the castle of Berkeley, and fortified the town of Bristol, in order to make it their chief magazine. “The Red King,” asthe historians of the time denominate him, “ seeing that his Norman countrymen were conspiring against him, called on his subjects of English race to arm in his defence, onaiiang them to this effort by a promise of alleviating their grievances.” + He soon raised an army of 30,000 men, and marched against his enemies so suddenly that he took them by surprise: Odo was obliged to shut himself up in the city of Winchester, which was sore pressed by the furious assaults of the king’s army, when the Normans finding themselves unable to defend the town, agreed to surrender, on condition of having free egress with their arms and their horses. Soon afterward Odo, “the haughty prelate who had given a blessing to the Norman army at the battle of Hastings, withdrew from the kingdom of England never more to return.” \ | | | | | 50 _ THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. by their demeanour and simplicity, that she kept them with her, and caused all their wants to be bountifully supplied ; she forbade their departure, and undertook to find them both a place of abode, and the means of subsistence. As it was not convenient for them to travel with her from manor to manor,* she sent them to her uncle, Robert de Alneto, who had been a monk at Whitby, and was then living asa hermit at Hode, (now Hood Grange, near Sutton-under-Whitstonecliff,) where she caused them to be well and honourably maintained, until her son Roger came to his lands, which was about two years afterwards, A.D. 1140; when he gave them large possessions, first at Old Byland, near the river Rye, subsequently in the valley near Coxwold, where they reared the magnificent fabric of Byland Abbey. Could we take a survey of the possessions of Roger de Mowbray, on his coming of age, their vast extent would surprise us, and the largest estates in England in the present day appear insignificant in comparison. The two hundred and eighty manors of Robert de Mowbray formed but a small part of his patrimony. In the neigh- bourhood of Thirsk, he was owner of the castles of Slingsby and Gilling, while on the western side of the vale which bears his name, stood the strong castle of Kirkby Malzeard; so that his possessions extended from the eastern to the western Moorlands, from the Hambleton range to the crest of the lesser Whernside, above the springs of the river Nidd ; a domain sufficient to satisfy the most extensive wants, and gratify the greatest ambition ; and yet this formed but a fragment to the whole.t Extensive as were * It was the custom of the nobles of this period, to have the greatest part of their lands in their own possession, (letting but little of them to farm), and travel from manor to manor, with their household and retainers, to consume the produce in rustic hospitality on the spot. + “The house of Mowbray had four principal seats and manors.—First, Thirsk, with the smaller ones of Upsall and Kirby Knowle, together with that lovely and fertile plain, to this day denominated ‘the Vale of Mowbray.’ The second castle that of Kirkby Malersert, with the barony of Masham in Richmondshire, and Kirkby Malersert, which stretches from the eastern confines of Masham, by Middlesmore in Netherdale, to Hebden in Craven. The third was the castle of Black Burton in Lonsdale, with the wapontake stretching from the north-west point of Craven, to the confines of Westmorland ; and the fourth and last, was Eppleworth castle with the island of Axeholme.”’—Whitaker’s Richmondshire. a Se re oa artes St SS OR Sree! Setanta Sora Snag side: Spine, seen ene sans ieerbem: “=> pelt pesiesgirnctsmanvevur-sin-asiemisnune sip esis jr ~apeysonstimscanen fees ob sean pie tac ling eet THIRSK. 51 his possessions, his liberality in disposing of them, especially to the church, was as great. In 1143, he founded and liberally en- _dowed the abbey of Byland, and two years afterwards the priory of Newburgh, in the immediate neighbourhood of his castle at Thirsk. He was also a benefactor to no fewer than thirty-five religious houses. To Byland he gave the forest of Nidderdale, a district comprising twenty-seven thousand acres; to the abbey of Fountains, he gave the townships of Fountains Earth, and Bewerley, with other large possessions in the same neighbourhood. To Newburgh, he gave the churches of Coxwold, Kilburn, Thirkleby, Silton, (chapel), Thirsk, Welburn, Wimbleton, (chapel), Kirkby Moorside, Kirkby-on-the-Moor, Cundall, and Hovinghan ; a long list of ecclesiastical benefices to be given away by one man to one place. His grant to the canons of Newburgh of the church and other property in Thirsk is curious, as it affords us some insight into the state of the town at that period. In the charter of the foundation of the priory, after describing the gift of lands in other places he gives, “The Church of Tresc, with one carucate of land in that vill, and tofts, and crofts in the borough; also the chapel of St. James, with two oxgangs of land in the village, with two tofts in the borough ; also one carucate of land in Trese, which Bartholo- mew Gigator* held or occupied, with the tofts and crofts thereunto belonging. Also I grant to them and their tenants living in the borough, all the liberties and easements, which my burgesses have in the said borough, of buying and selling in the market, and out of the market, without paying toll or stallage; one oxgang of land in Trese, heretofore the possession of William the son of Catellus, which he had in exchange for one oxgang of land in Colton, and one Toft in Tresc, near the bar towards Kilvington, between the house of Robert Collier and the house of Humphrey ; also another toft between the toft of Helias the son of Elwin, and the toft of | William the son of Robert; also the island of Trese, which was * This Bartholomew probably obtained his surname from his occupation as a maker of belts, by which shields were suspended when not in use, called Guiggia, Guige, or Giga. — ao THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. the property of Richard the priest; and an oxgang of land, with a toft and croft which the said Richard possessed ; and that toft which belonged to Basilia.” From this document we learn that there was a village of Thirsk as well as a borough of Thirsk, and that the chapel of St. James stood in the village. Also that the burgesses, or inhabitants of the borough, had the privilege of buying and selling in the market and out of it, without paying toll or stallage; a sufficient proof that the town possessed a market at that time—indeed it is pro- bable that the market is coeval with the foundation of the castle. As the borough would be that part of the town which immediately adjoined the castle, the inference is that the village was situate on the other side of the brook Codbeck, which is now called Old Thirsk. But if it were the village then, how did it subsequently become the borough, and have the privilege of cs the par- liamentary representatives ? In the year 1148, the weakness of the careelaal parties for the throne of England, Stephen and the empress Matilda, pro- duced a tacit cession of the civil strife which had previously divided the kingdom ; when Roger de Mowbray, William de | Warrene, and others of the nobility, finding no opportunity for the display of their military ardour at home, enlisted themselves in the new crusade which was then preached by St. Barnard. The leaders of this second crusade, were Lewis the seventh of France, and Conrad third, emperor of Germany. It is scarcely necessary to say that the expedition was completely unsuccessful. The warriors of the west met with only false friends in the Greeks of the Lower Empire, and formidable enemies in the Saracens, — who opposed their passage to the Holy Land. The chiefs and nobles of the army escaped with difficulty, after encountering great privation and defeat, while the crowd of plebeian infantry was left to perish at the foot of the Pamphilian hills. The leaders returned home with the fame of piety and the shame of defeat. In this expedition Roger de Mowbray is said to have vanquished a stout and hardy pagan in single combat. After the fatigues and dangers he had endured in this fruitless a | | | | | | | | | | : , : soins cancers hisses dae ceteris tice eset dares ce shinier tctasinna tala Debit ett ected crtithcncnin cca tidal ' THIRSK. 53 expedition, he appears to have reposed awhile in peace, as we find him mentioned no more in history, until about the year 1173, when he joined the party of Prince Henry against his father, king Henry II. It is indeed surprising such a pious warrior as Mowbray should have taken part in so unnatural a rebellion. Henry allowed his son to be crowned during his own lifetime ; the young prince not satisfied with this nominal honour, aspired to the royal crown itself, and sought to dethrone his father ; the whole kingdom was divided into factions, and Mowbray joined the party of the prince. Lewis king of France, and William the lion king of Scotland, took part with the rebels, and the authority of Henry appeared in the greatest danger; as his dominions were attacked on all sides, both in France and England, and he hardly knew on whom to depend: yet his spirit quailed not at the dessins and his genius rose superior to all difficulties. Henry was at this time in France, and Richard de Lucy was guardian of the kingdom m his absence. The king of Scotland made a sudden irruption into Northumberland, and committed great devastation ; but being opposed by Lucy, retreated into his own kingdom and agreed to a cession of arms. ‘The earl of Leicester with a large body of Flemings had invaded Suffolk, but was defeated near Farnham, with the loss of ten thousand of his men. ‘This defeat did not dishearten the confederates, and early in the year 1174, Mowbray with many more of the nobility, rose inarms. Richard de Lucy, though bravely and gallantly sup- ported by Geoffrey, bishop of Lincoln, the king’s natural son by Fair Rosamond, found it difficult to defend the king’s authority against so many open and concealed enemies. The more to aug- ment the confusion, the king of Scotland again broke into the kingdom at the head of an army of eighty thousand men ; though repulsed before the castle of Prudhoe, he committed the most horrible ravages in the northern provinces, but being opposed by Sir Ralph de Glanville, the famous justiciary, Sir Barnard Baliol, the gallant bishop of Lincoln, and others, he retreated northward and fixed his camp at Alnwick, whence he sent out parties to ravage the country in all directions, while he lay safe, as he cee a st ce A Ltt Le ALLEN tt i tt TE NN CL CO CC CLL OL LLL LOL AD LALLA LOL ALL AA LLL ALLL LLL LL LLL CT 54 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. imagined, from the attack of any enemy. Glanville, informed of his situation, made a hasty and fatiguing march to Newcastle, and allowing his soldiers only a short interval for refreshment, set out towards Alnwick in search of the enemy. He marched that night more than thirty miles; arrived in the morning, under cover of a mist near the Scottish camp; and regardless of the number — of the enemy, began the attack with his small but determined body of cavalry. William was lying in such supine security, that. he took the English at first for a foraging party of his own army, who were returning to their camp ; but the sight of their standards soon convinced him of his mistake, and he rushed into action with no greater force than a hundred horse; he was dismounted at the first charge and taken prisoner ; while his troops hearing of their disaster, fled on all sides with the greatest precipitation. Thus the lion of Scotland was caught, July 13th, 1174, and soon securely caged in the strong castle of Richmond. By a singular coinci- dence the Scottish king was captured on the very day that Henry was doing penance at the tomb of the murdered Thomas 4 Becket at Canterbury. This victory was decisive in favour of Henry, and completely broke the spirit of the English rebels. The bishop of Durham, who was preparing to revolt, made his submission. Hugh Bigod, though he had received a strong reinforcement of Flemings, was obliged to surrender all his castles and throw him- self on the king’s mercy. Roger de Mowbray, seeing his castles of Axholme and Kirkby Malzeard besieged and taken by Geoffrey, bishop of Lincoln,* and that his only chance of safety was in un- conditional submission, hastened to Northampton where the king then was, and on the 31st of July surrendered to him his castles — of Kirkby Malzeard and Thirsk, and received pardon for all his offences. These castles the king shortly afterwards caused to be destroyed. At this period we would gladly pause, to describe the castle of Thirsk before its final demolition, but unfortunately we have not the means of doing so; no record of its grandeur exists, its history * Camden’s Brit., p. 473. ae TE TT TT ST nn ee THIRSK. 00 has perished with it! Of the magnificence of its exterior, or the sumptuous splendour of its interior we know nothing. It was beyond doubt, a building of considerable extent, and its ample courts were crowded at times with the numerous retainers of its illustrious owners. Of what materials however it was built we know not, so completely has it passed away. The moat, which has been both wide and deep, and a green ridge within it, are all that remain to indicate the site where stood the home of the once mighty Mowbrays. ** We turn to dust, and all our mightiest works Die too; the deep foundations that we lay, Time ploughs them up, and not a trace remains ; We build with what we deem eternal rock ; A distant age asks where the fabric stood ; And in the dust, sifted and searched in vain, The undiscoverable secret sleeps,”’ Probably to expiate the crime of joining in the unnatural rebellion of the son against the father, Roger de Mowbray again went to the Holy Land, but was as unsuccessful as in his first expedition. _ He was taken prisoner by Saladin, along with Guy Lusignan, king of Jerusalem, and redeemed from captivity by the Knights Templers. Returning home wearied of life, and disgusted with the world, he retired to the calm seclusion of Byland abbey, where he assumed the monastic habit, and ended his days in peace. By his wife Alice de Gant, he left two sons, Nigel and Robert. Nigel the eldest succeeded to his father’s possessions, but does not appear to have taken any prominent part in public affairs, as we find no mention of him in history. He died about the year 1191. William his eldest son and successor, was a more renowned cha- racter than his father; he was one of the barons who took up arms against king John, for the confirmation of the great charter of England’s liberties; was present when it was signed by the king at Runnimede, June 19th, 1215; and was one of the twenty- five barons appointed conservators of the same. These conser- vators were almost invested with the sovereignty of the kingdom, as no bounds was set to their authority, either in extent or duration. If any complaint was made of a violation of the charter, any four Ss SSS a a a rn a nT 56 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. of these barons might admonish the king to redress the grievance. If satisfaction were not obtained, they could assemble the whole council of twenty-five, who in conjunction with the great council, were empowered to compel the king to observe the charter ; and in case of resistance might levy war against him, attack his castles, and employ every kind of violence, except against his royal person, and that of his queen and children; and all men throughout the kingdom were bound under the penalty of confiscation to swear obedience to the twenty-five barons. Mowbray aiterwards joined the party of prince Lewis of France, who invaded England at the request of many of the barons,—and was taken prisoner at the battle of Lincoln, where the French being left almost alone, acceded to a capitulation, by which their lives were granted them, on the condition of their imme- diately quitting the kingdom. ‘The lands of Mowbray were seized by the conqueror, yet he afterwards obtained pardon, and had them restored. Although the castle of Thirsk was demolished, the place was neither abandoned nor forgotten by its lords; for this William de Mowbray founded a chapel here, and a chantry therein, and dedi- cated the same to St. Nicholas. He died in 1222, and was buried in the priory of Newburgh. By his wife Agnes, daughter of the earl of Arundel, he left two sons, Nigel and Roger. Nigel the eldest, succeeded to the barony, but dying without issue in 1228, was succeeded by his brother Roger de Mowbray, who 25th Henry III., A.D. 1240, being of full age did homage, and had livery of his lands. He attended ~ the king at Chester, Worcester, and Shrewsbury, and departed this life 51st Henry III., A.D. 1266. Roger his eldest son, succeeded to his lands and dignities; he was summoned to the several parliaments of 23rd, 24th, and 25th, of Edward I. In 1295, the king granted him free warren in his manors of Thirsk and Hovingham.* This baron, about the 10th * “Carta. 24, Edw. I., N. 11.”’ ‘Rex concessit Rogero de Mowbray liberam warrennam in Thresk and Hovyngham, Com. Ebor.”’ THIRSK. . 57 Edward I., entailed all his lands and lordships in the county of York, upon himself and the heirs of his body, and in failure of such issue, upon Henry de Lacy earl of Lincoln, and his heirs. He died at Ghent, 26th Edward I., 1297, and was brought home and buried in Fountains abbey. His wife was Rose, sister of Gilbert earl of Clare.* John his eldest son, succeeded to the honours and estates of his father. He fought in Scotland, and was knighted with prince _ Edward, and many others, 35th Edward I. In 6th Edward II., he was governor of the city of York ; and in the 11th of the same reign was governor of the castles of Malton and Scarborough. He mar- ried the only daughter of William de Braouse, lord of Gower, who made a settlement of his estate upon his son-in-law. On his decease, Mowbray entered immediately into possession of the estate of his father-in-law, without the formality of taking livery and seizin from the crown. Hugh Spenser the younger, then chief favourite of the weak king Edward II., who coveted the barony of Gower, persuaded Edward to put in execution the rigour of the feudal law, to seize Gower as escheated to the crown, and bestow it upon him. This transaction which was the proper subject for a law suit,} im- mediately excited a civil war in the kingdom. The earls of Lan- caster and Hereford flew to arms: Audley and Ammori joined them with all their forces: the two Rogers de Mortimer, and Roger de Clifford, with many others, disgusted from private reasons at the Spensers, brought a considerable accession to the party; and their army being now formidable, they sent a message to the king, requiring him immediately to dismiss or confine the younger Spenser; and threatening in case of refusal to renounce their allegiance to him, and take vengeance on Spenser by their own authority. They scarcely waited for an answer; but immediately fell upon the lands of the younger Spenser, which they pillaged and destroyed, murdered his servants, drove off his cattle, and burned his houses! They then marched to London with all their forces, and demanded of the king the banishment of both the * See Appendix No. 1. + Hume. ee ee ec en 58 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Spensers; they presented to parliament (then setting) a bill of attainder against the favourites, which was quickly passed, and the Spensers were both banished the realm, without it being in the power of the king to save them. This took place in 1321; the king shortly afterwards, under pretence of taking vengeance on lord Badlesmere, who had insulted the queen, raised a large army; no one came to the assistance of Badlesmere, and Edward soon satisfied hisrevenge on him. Henow threw off the mask, recalled the Spensers, and proceeded to take vengeance upon his rebellious barons, who on this occasion were unprepared to meet him in the field. Many endeavoured to appease him by submission ; their castles were seized, and their persons consigned to prison. Thomas earl of Lancaster, in order to prevent the entire ruin of his party, gathered together his vassals and retainers, and summoned his former confederates again to his standard; among those who at- tended was John de Mowbray. Lancaster posted his forces at Burton-upon-Trent, and endeavoured to defend the passage of the river; but failing in that, retreated northward, pursued by the king’s army, until he reached Boroughbridge, where his further progress was stopped by another royalist army, under the com- mand of Sir Andrew Harcla, and the Sheriff of Yorkshire. Lan- caster’s army was repulsed in an attempt to force the passage of the bridge, the earl of Hereford was killed. Lancaster fled to a chapel for safety, and was dragged thence a prisoner ; many of the leaders were taken and their army entirely dispersed; they were tried by judges appointed for the purpose, condemned, and sen- tenced to be hanged and quartered ; and the sentence was executed upon them in different parts of England. John de Mowbray, . Roger de Clifford, and Jocelin Deivill were executed at York.* ‘Never since the Norman conquest had the scaffolds been drenched with so much noble English blood as on this oecasion.”t By this event the honours and estates of Mowbray became forfeited into the king’s hands. * Rapin. + There is a tradition yet current in the Vale of Mowbray, that John de Mowbray after the battle of Boroughbridge, attempted to escape to the Manor House of Upsall, THIRSK. 59 _ John, his son and heir, however found favour with king Edward III., in consideration of the services of his ancestors, obtained livery of his lands,* and marched with the king into Scotland. In the 14th of the same king’s reign, he was made governor of Berwick-on-Tweed, and served in the French wars with great honour. He died of the plague at York, about the year 1360, seized of the manor of Thirsk. John de Mowbray his son, married Elizabeth daughter of lord Segrave, heiress of the earl of Norfolk, by which marriage great inheritance of lands and increase of honour came to this family. He was slain near Constantinople, in his passage to the Holy Land, about the year 1367. His eldest son and heir John, succeeded to his father’s honours, and on the coronation of Richard Il., was created earl of Not- tingham, but dying about four years afterwards without issue, Thomas his brother, succeeded to the family honours and estates, he was also created earl of Nottingham, and the 9th Richard IL., Earl Marshall of England,+ by reason of his descent from the earl of Norfolk, (John de Brotherton, second son of Edward 1.) He had a naval command, 10th Richard II., and shared in the taking of Brest. He was afterwards constituted the king’s lieutenant in Calais, and parts of Picardy, Flanders, and Artois; and for his many good services done, the king granted him two hundred marks per annum for life, and authorized him to bear for his crest a gold leopard with coronet of silver; the golden leopard with a white label belonging of right to the king's eldest son. then held by one of his retainers, but was overtaken and seized in Chop-head Loaning, between the town of Thirsk and Upsall; that an ash tree there growing was cut down, and part of its trunk extemporized into a headsman’s block, and that the un- fortunate baron was beheaded by one of the enemies’ soldiers in pursuit. The same authority goes on to say, that his armour was torn from his body, and suspended on the branches of a neighbouring oak ; and though both oak and armour have disap- peared, yet during the witching hour of midnight, the gyves may be heard creaking as if yet swinging on the branches, when the east wind comes soughing up the road from the heights of Black Hambleton. ** Tradition! Oh Tradition! thou of the seraph tongue, The ark that links two ages, the ancient and the young.” * See Appendix No. 2. rf + Camden’s Brit., p. 191 and 194, az SL tS SS ren rary se sn nee oss nen nen ns ste ete emgage 60 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. In the year 1398, occurred the memorable quarrel between Mowbray and Henry Bolingbroke earl of Hereford. Hereford appeared in parliament, and accused Mowbray of having spoken to him in private many slanderous words of the king, and of having imputed to him an intention of subverting and destroying many of the principal nobility. Mowbray denied the charge, gave Hereford the lie, and offered to prove his innocence in single fight. The challenge was accepted; and the time and place of combat appointed. The lists were pitched at Coventry, before the king ; and all the novility in England bandied into parties, sided with one or the other of them; but when the two champions appeared in the field ready for the contest, the king interposed, to prevent both the present effusion of blood, and the future consequences of the quarrel. He banished them both the kingdom, assigning one country as the place of Mowbray’s exile, which he declared per- petual; another for that of Hereford, whose term of banishment was limited to ten years. Mowbray departed the kingdom, and died of the plague at Venice, in the year 1400, leaving eighty- eight manors and castles to bis son and heir.* His wife was Elizabeth, sister and one of the heirs of Toma Fitz Allan, earl of Arundel. He left issue two sons, Thomas and John; two daughters, Isabel, married to sir James Berkeley, and Margaret, married to sir Robert Howard. Thomas succeeded his father. In 1405 he joined in rebellion with Scrope, archbishop of York, and the earl of Northumber- land, against the authority of king Henry IV. Mowbray and the archbishop betook themselves to arms before Northumberland was ready to join them, and mustered their forces to the number of 11,000 men, at Skipton in the forest of Galtrees, near York. They published a manifesto, in which they reproached Henry with the usurpation of the crown, and the murder of the late king. They required that the right line should be restored, and all griev- ances be redressed. Ralph Neville, earl of Westmorland, whose power lay at Sheriff * Dugdale’s Baronage. Camden’s Brit., p. 394. —————$———$ — THIRSK. 61 Hutton in the neighbourhood, together with prince John of Lan- caster,the king’s son, came against them with an inferior force, “and caused their standards to be pight down, as the archbishop had pight his, over against them. When the earl of Westmorland perceived the force of adversaries, and that they lay still and attempted not to come forward upon him, he subtilely devised how to quail their purpose.”* He desired a conference of the leaders, between the armies; the archbishop and Mowbray con- sented; Westmorland heard their grievances with great patience: he begged them to propose the remedies: he approved of every expedient which they suggested: he granted them all their de- mands: he also engaged that Henry should give them entire satisfaction: and when he saw them pleased with the facility of his concessions, he observed to them, that since amity was now in effect restored between them, it were better on both sides to dis- miss their forces. “Well,” said the earl of Westmorland, “then our travail is come to the wished end: and where our peopie have been long in armour, let them depart home to their wonted trades and occupations: in the mean time let us drink together in sign of agreement, that the people on both sides may see it, and know that it is true that we be light at a point.” They had no sooner shaken hands together, but that a knight was sent straightways from the archbishop to bring word to the people that there was a peace concluded, commanding each man to lay aside arms and return to their houses. The people beholding such tokens of peace, as shaking of hands and drinking together of the lords in loving manner, brake up their field and returned homewards: but in the meantime whilst the people of the archbishop’s side drew away, the number of the contrary party increased, according to order given by the earl of Westmorland; and yet the archbishop per- ceived not that he was deceived, till the earl of Westmorland arrested both him and the Earl Marshall, as well as divers others. Their troops being pursued, many were taken, many slain, and many — of what they had about them, and permitted to go their ways.” - * Holingshed. - + Ibid. } | 62 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The archbishop and the earl, thus taken in arms, were shortly afterwards condemned to death, without the regular formalities of trial, and beheaded in June, 1405. Mowbray’s body was buried in York Minster, but his head was placed on a spike and exhibited on the walls of the city. ) Dying a traitor’s death, the estates of Mowbray again escheated. to the crown. Leaving no issue, John his brother, was his heir, and about the year 1412, upon proof of his age, had livery of all his lands; and was restored to his father’s digaities by king Henry V., whom he attended into France. Inthe Parliament held at Westminster, 3rd of Henry VL. he was restored to the title and dignity of duke of Norfolk. In the 8th of Henry VI. he was retained by indenture to serve the king in his wars. He died about the year 1435; leaving by his wife Katharine, daughter of Ralph Neville earl of Westmor- land, a son and successor. John, who (17th Henry VI.) was sent ambassador to Picardy, to treat of peace between England and France. In Ist Edward IV., after returning from a pilgrimage to Rome, he was made Justice Itinerant of all the Forests on the south of Trent. - He died the same year, and was buried in the Abbey Church at Thet- ford, leaving a son John, who in 29th ate VI. was created earl of Warren and Surrey. He married Elizabeth, daughter of John Talbot earl of Shrewsbury, and died 15th Edward IV., January 17th, 1475,* leaving a daughter and heiress, Ann, wedded in January, 1477, to Richard duke of York, ~ gecond son of king Edward IV., but died without issue; whereby the inheritance of this great house reverted to the families of Berkeley and Howard, in respect of Isabel and Margaret, the two daughters of Thomas Mowbray duke of Norfolk.t * It appears from the Paston Letters, that this duke died suddenly at his castle of Framlingham, then the principle seat of the family. ‘* Like it you to weet, that, not in the most happy season for me, it is so fortuned that, whereas my lord of Norfolk, yesterday being in good health, this night died about midnight, wherefore it is for all that loved him to do and help now that may be to his honour and weal to his soul.”’—John Paston, Knight.—Vol. II1., p. 187. + Dugdale’s Baronage, pp.122, 131. THIRSK. 63 On the partition of the estates, the lordships of Thirsk and Kirkby Malzeard fell to the share of the eldest daughter Isabel, and were inherited by her son William, lord Berkeley, who in the 13th year of his age was a retainer of Henry Beaufort, Cardinal Bishop of Winchester. In 1438 he was knighted at Calais. In the 10th of Edward IV., when the duke of Clarence and earl of Warwick took up arms against the king, he was commanded, with Maurice Berkeley and others, to muster and array all men fitting to bear arms in the county of Gloucester. He was in such great esteem with king Edward IV., that in the 21st year of his reign, he advanced him to the honour of Viscount Berkeley, and soon after he had a grant of 100 marks per annum, payable out of the customs of the port of Bristol for life. In the 1st of Richard III., he was created earl of Nottingham. He afterwards fled into Brittainy to Henry earl of Richmond; who, on his accession to the crown, appointed him Earl Marshal of England, with limitation to the heirs male of his body, and a fee of 20/. per annum. In the 4th of Henry VII. he was advanced to the dignity of Marquis of Berkeley. He was a benefactor to the nuns of Walling-Wells in Nottinghamshire, to the monks of Worcester, and to the Austin friars of London. He was three times married, first to Elizabeth daughter of Reginald West, lord Warre, from whom he was divorced without haying any issue by her. Secondly, to Jane, widow of Sir Wil- liam Willoughby, knight, daughter of Sir Thomas Strangways, knight, by whom he had issue Thomas and Katherine, who died young. Thirdly, to Anne, daughter of John Fiennes, lord Dacres of the South, who survived him. He died February 14th, 1491, and was buried in the church of the Augustine friars, London: and, leaving no issue, his brother _ Maurice was his heir; but the marquis was so enraged against him, on account of his having married the daughter of an alderman of Bristol, that he settled the ancient barony with all the estates thereunto belonging, upon king Henry VIL., and for four genera- tions they were out of the family. He also gave divers lands and ‘Manors to William Stanley, lord chamberlain of the king’s house- ance nererenner eg ym eS En aT GENT Are = : a: 64 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. hold; and to his brother Thomas Stanley, earl of Derby, he gave the manors of Thirsk, Dennington Thwaites, Hovingham, Kirkby Malzeard, and Burton-in-Lonsdale in the county of York, with many others in divers counties, “to hold to y® said Earle and the heirs of his body.” Thomas Stanley, afterwards earl of Derby, was first summoned to Parliament among the barons of this realm May 24th, 1460, and having married Eleanor, daughter of Richard Neville earl of Salisbury, sister to Richard Neville earl of Warwick, “the king maker”; he was importuned by the earl to put himself in arms against the king, which he refused to do. He died in the year 1504, and by his will dated July 28th in the same year, he bequeathed “his body to be buried in the midst of the chapel in the north aisle of the church of the Priory of Burscough, of his ancestor’s foundation, where the bodies of his father, mother, and other of his ancestors were buried; having provided a tomb to be there placed, with the personage of him- self and both his wives, for a perpetual remembrance to be pray’d for; and likewise appointing that the personages, which he had caused to be made for his father and mother, his grandfather, and great-grandfather, should be set in the aisles of chancel within the priory, in the places provided for the same.’ This noble earl left no issue by the mother of Henry VII., but by his first wife Eleanor, he had six sons and four daughters. George, his eldest surviving son and heir, married Joan daughter and heiress of John, lord Strange of Knockin, and had summons to Parliament by the title of lord Strange, in 22nd Edward IV. He received the honour of knighthood with prince Edward, the king’s eldest son, April 18th, 1474. He was an hostage in the hands of king Richard III. for his father’s fidelity, and narrowly escaped with his life at the battle of Bosworth: king Richard ordered him to be beheaded, and with difficulty was persuaded to defer it till the battle was over. On the accession of Henry VII., he was made one of the lords of the Privy Council; and (June 6th, 1487) had a principal com- mand at the battle of Stoke, where the pretender Lambert Simnel eee THIRSK. 65 was taken prisoner, and his army defeated : soon after he was made one of the Knight’scompanions of the most noble order of the Garter. In 7th of Henry VII., he was retained by indenture to serve the king in France with ten men-at-arms, five demi-lances, twenty- four archers on horseback, and two hundred and forty-seven arch- ers on foot; for and during the space of a year from the day of his first muster, and so long as it shall please the king. And to re- ceive for each of the said men-at-arms eighteenpence per day, and for every of the said demi-Jances ninepence per day, and for every _ of the said archers on horseback or on foot, sixpence per day. He died during the life-time of his father, December 5th, 1497, and was buried in the church of St. James, Garlich Hithe, in the city of London, near Eleanor his mother. Thomas his eldest son, had livery of those lands whereof his father died seized, July 9th, 1503, and the same year succeeded his grandfather as earl of Derby. He attended the king in his expe- dition into France in 1513, when the battle of Spurs was fought, and the towns of Terotienne and Tournay taken, and was one of the peers who sat on the trial of the duke of Buckingham in 1521. He departed this life on the 24th of May, in the year following, and was buried in the monastery of Sion, in the county of Middlesex. It appears by his will, that he had four thousand marks with his lady, Ann, daughter of Edward, lord Hastings; and he be- queathed to his daughter Margaret, 2066/. 13s. 4d. as a marriage portion. : Edward, his son and successor, being under age, Cardinal Wolsey got a grant of several manors in Lincolnshire, which came into the king’s hands by reason of his minority ; he was but fifteen years of age on the death of his father. This earl was the most splendid and hospitable character of his | age, and the faithful servant of two kings and two queens; so we may presume his moderation was equal to his hospitality. He attended king Henry VIII. in his interview with the French king near Boulogne, in 1532. In the same year he was created a knight of the Bath; and was cup bearer at the coronation of queen Anne Boleyne. F 66 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. — In 1536, on the breaking out of the insurrection called the Pil-. grimage of Grace, the king directed his letter to him, to raise what forces he could, promising to repay his charges. And as Holingshed observes, “by the faithful diligence of the earl of Derby, who with the forces of Lancashire and Cheshire was appointed to resist them, they were kept back and brought to quiet, notwith- standing there were great numbers assembled together out of the counties of Cumberland, Westmoreland, and the north parts of Lancashire.” In 1542, he marched into Scotland with the duke of Norfolk, with an army of twenty thousand men, but returned without ac- complishing anything of importance. On the accession of Edward VI., he was elected a knight of the Garter, installed May 22nd, 1547. In 1549, he was one of the peers party to the articles of peace, made by king Edward with the Scots and French; and in 1551, he made an exchange with the king for his house of Derby place in the city of London, for certain lands joining to his park of Knowsley in the county of Lancaster, of which county he was lord-lieutenant during that reign. When queen Mary came to the crown, she constituted him Lord High Steward of England. Queen Elizabeth, on her accession chose him one of her Privy Council. He lived in such a splendid style that he has been compared to king Solomon. Camden in his life of queen Elizabeth, says, “With Edward earl of Derby’s death the glory of hospitality seemed to fall asleep.” Holingshed and Stow make honourable mention of him. “ His fidelity unto two kings and two queens in ~ dangerous times and great rebellions. His godly disposition to his tenants; his liberality to strangers; his famous housekeepin g, and keeping eleven score in check roll, never discontinuing for the space of twelve years ; his feeding, especially of aged persons twice a day, three score and odd; besides all comers, thrice a week ap- pointed for his dealing days ; and every Good Friday these thirty- five years, one with another two thousand seven hundred with | meat, drink, money, and moneys worth. His yearly portion for ne ee ee ee SS THIRSK. 67 the expenses of his house 40007. His cunning in setting bones, disjointed and broken; his surgery, and desire to help the poor ; his delivery of the George and seal to lord Strange, with exhor- tation, that he might keep it as unspotted in fidelity to his prince as he had; and his joy that he died in the queen’s favour. His joyful parting this world; his taking leave of all his servants by shaking of hands, and his remembrance to the last day.” He died at Latham House, at twelve o’clock on Friday, October 24th, and was buried with the greatest magnificence at Ormskirk, on Thursday the 4th of December, 1574. He was thrice married and left a numerous family. Henry his eldest son, by Dorothy, daughter of Thomas Howard duke of Norfolk, succeeded to his honours and estates; and was summoned to parliament 18th of Elizabeth. He was elected a knight of the Garter, on the 23rd of April, 1573; and sent am- bassador into France in 1584. He was one of the peers who sat on the trial of the beautiful, unfortunate, and licentious Mary queen of Scots; and was constituted Lord High Steward of England on the trial of Philip earl of Arundel. He died September 25th, 1593, and was buried in the church of Ormskirk, leaving by his wife Margaret, daughter of Henry Clifford earl of Cumberland, two sons, Ferdinand and William, successively earls of Derby. His lady survived him about three years; who, as Camden says, “ out of a womanish curiosity and weakness of her sex, being too credulous and somewhat ambitious, dealt with soothsayers ; and in striving to get knowledge in things to come, lost the present favour of the queen, and soon after ended her days, Anno 1596.” Ferdinand succeeded his father, and survived him but a short time ; he shone amongst the most accomplished men of his day, though he fell a victim to the imaginary power of witchcraft, the most vulgar of superstitions. On the 5th of April, 1594, he was seized with a mortal sickness, produced probably by poison secretly administered, and after enduring great torture, he died on the 12th of the same month. In his chamber while his complaint was at its height, an image of wax was found, with hair of the same colour as that of the earl, stuffed into the belly, no doubt to Sete eR BA Vem en eh a rn ren Anne a shea a A en th A ce tm SE BE ae Sine ee 68 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. encourage the supposition that he was the victim of supernatural agency ; and his servants, his secretary, sir Edward Filton, and other justices of the peace, as well as his spiritual physicians, the bishop of Chester and the Rev. Mr. Lee, were the dupes of this gross imposture. As to the earl himself, he submitted to his fate as inevitable, and “In all the time of his sickness, he cried out that the docters laboured in vain, because he was certainly be- witched. He fell twice into a trance, not able to move hand, head, or foot, when he would have taken physic todo him good. In the end he cried out against all witches and witchcraft, reposing his only hope of salvation upon the merits of Christ Jesus his Saviour.” He was buried at Ormskirk on the 6th of May following, leaving issue by Alice his wife, daughter of sir John Spencer of Althorpe, three daughters his heirs; Anne married to Grey Bruges lord Chandos ; Frances, to John Egerton earl of Bridgwater ; and Elizabeth, to Henry Hastings earl of Huntington. William his brother, succeeded to the earldom, and having a dis- pute with his nieces, touching the title to the Isle of Man, he was obliged to purchase their several claims; which agreement, to- gether with the king’s fresh grant, was ratified by act of parlia- ment, July 7th, in the seventh year of James I. He was installed one of the knights of the Garter, May 26th, 1601, and died Sept. 29th, 1642. He was married June 26th, 1594, to the lady Elizabeth eldest daughter of Edward Vere earl of Oxford, by whom he had three sons and four daughters. James his eldest son, succeeded to the honours and estates. He was a person highly accomplished, learned, prudent, loyal, and brave, of which he gave many signal proofs during the cival wars of the 17th century. He was amongst the first who espoused the cause of king Charles, and continued faithful until his death. It is impossible in our narrow limits to give even an outline of his life—his latter years were one continued scene of warfare and suffering. In 1651, with only six hundred men he maintained a fight of two hours in Wigan lane, against colonel Lilburne with an army of three thousand horse and foot; his slender force was nearly destroyed; and though in the action he received seven | | . _ eS herr amen THIRSK. 69 shots on his breast plate, thirteen cuts on his beaver, five or six wounds on his arms and shoulders, and had two horses killed under him, yet he made his way to king Charles at Worcester ; and on the loss of the day there, he fied with him into Staffordshire, where leaving the king secure, he intended to return into Lanca- shire; but on his way through Cheshire, he was made prisoner by major Edge, and brought to trial before a court martial at Chester, convicted of treason against the commonwealth, and con- demned to death; he was accordingly beheaded at Bolton in Lancashire, October 15th, 1651, and buried at Ormskirk. He married Charlotte, daughter of Claude de la Tremouille, a peer of France, by whom he had issue one son, Charles his successor, and . four daughters. James Lord Strange was lord of the manor of Thirsk in his father’s life time ; the courts were held in his name in the year 1630. In consequence of the active part which the earl took in the cause of royalty, his possessions were declared forfeited to the commonwealth for treason, and in April, 1652, the manor with all “its courts, rights, and royalties, was valued at 8/. 8s. 1d., and the annual value of all the earl’s other property within the manor at 155/. 2s. 3d.* It does not appear that the manor and estate were ever out of the possession of the countess dowager of Derby, the celebrated defender of Lathom House against the parliamentarians; as in 1652, we find her giving authority to an agent to receive her rents in the manors of Thirsk and Kirkby Malzeard, and also granting leases of the same, which were deemed good in law, as will fully appear by the following writ from the lord protector Cromwell. “ Oliver lord protector of the commonwealth of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and: the dominions thereto belonging. ‘To the sheriff of Yorkshire greeting. Know you that Edward Alchorne gent. | - in the court of common bench, before the justices of the same court at Westminster, hath recovered his terme of one messuage, five hundred acres of land, five hundred acres of meadow, and three . | * In 1655, the countess received for reuts of farms in Thirsk, 4097. 11s. 8d. 70 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. hundred acres of pasture with appurts, in Thirsk, against William Elsley late of Ripon in the y* county gent., w° Charlotte coun- tess dowager of Derby, the 27th day of December, 1653, demised unto the said Edward, to have and to hold unto him and his assigns, from the last day of November, then last past, unto the full end and term of five years, from thence next ensuing fully to be completed ; w*": is not past, and whereupon the said William by force and arms and against the public peace, him the said Edward from his said farm hath ejected. And therefore we com- mand you that he the aforesaid Edward his possession of his term aforesaid of and in the said tenements with the appurts. without delay you cause to have. And hence this o™ precept you shall ex- ecute, you cause to appear to the justices of the common bench at West™ in eight days after the Annunciation of the blessed Mary. And have you there this writ. Witness, St. John at Westm™ the X XIInd. day of October, in the year of our Lord 1654.” The countess died March 2ist, 1663, and was buried at Ormskirk. Charles her son, then earl of Derby, married Dorothea Helena, daughter of baron Rupa a German nobleman, and dying on the 21st of December, 1672, leaving issue, William Richard George, eldest son and heir; Robert, who died unmarried; James, third son, subsequently tenth earl of Derby; Charles, and two daughters, Charlotte and Mary. On the marriage of the succeeding earl with Elizabeth Butler, daughter to Thomas earl of Ossory, and sister to James duke of Ormond, the manors of Thirsk and Kirkby Malzeard were con- veyed to trustees, for the following purposes :—To the said earl of Derby for life. To the said Elizabeth countess of Derby for life, in case she survived the earl, after to the first and other sons in tail male of the said earl of Derby, by the said countess. And in case the earl should happen to have no male issue by the said countess, but only daughters, then to raise portions for them, that is—if but one daughter ten thousand pounds, if two, or more twelve thousand. They had one son James Lord Strange, who died before his father, unmarried, in 1699, and two daughters, lady Henrietta, first married to John Annesley earl of Anglesea, and THIRSK. 71 secondly to John Lord Ashburnham, and the lady Elizabeth Stanley. The earl died November 4th, 1702. Elizabeth his widow, dowager countess of Derby, was lady of the manors of Thirsk and Kirkby Mailzeard until her death, July 5th, 1717, when the said manors descended to James brother of the late earl. This earl served several campaigns in Flanders under king William, and was one of the grooms of his bed chamber, and colonel of a regi- ment of foot. He was iord-lieutenant of North Wales and Lanca- shire, and during the reign of queen Anne, was one of the privy council, and chancellor of the duchy of Lancaster. The sums of money entailed by the late earl upon Thirsk and Kirkby Malzeard as portions for his daughters were not paid, and proceedings in chancery were-commenced against the earl for the recovery of the same ; the dispute was referred to arbitration, when on July 26th, 1720, in consideration of six thousand pounds paid to the earl of Anglesea, and two thousand paid to the trustees of lord and lady Ashburten ; all interest in the towns, villages, and hamlets of Thirsk, Kirkby Malzeard, Thorpe-als-Gruelthorpe, Azerley, Laverton, Micklehay, Gauthway, Winksley, Skeldon, Longley, Bowes, Gauthwaite, Ramsgill, Middlemore, Dallagill, Swetton, Misses, Ketsmore, Carlsmore, Hartick, Wynsley, Awde- field, Studley, Brathway, and Bromley, all in the county of York, were assigned to James earl of Derby. On the 14th of January, 1722, an agreement was entered into for the sale of the manor of Thirsk, unto Ralph Bell Esq., of Sowerby, by John Poole of Liverpool, and Henry Gill of Burscough, on the part and behalf of James earl of Derby, for the sum of six thousand three hundred pounds. The deed conveying the same is dated April 27th, 1723. By this indenture the manor or lordship of Thirsk in the county of York, with all its rights, members, and appurtenances, together with the demesnes and demesne lands thereunto belonging;* the toll booth and court house of Thirsk, with the tolls of fairs and markets, pickage, and stallage, courts, * The number of occupiers of houses and lands, whose names are given in the con- veyance is twenty-four, and of holders of burgages and cottages six. ceeds. Inthe Hall, Thirsk, are portraits of Robert Livesey, Esq., a gentleman with rey THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. court’s leet, court’s baron; perquisites and profits of courts; view of frank pledge, and all that to view of frank pledge doth belong ; waifes, estrays, deodands, goods of felons, felons-de-se, fugatives, tolls, rents, services, rents seck, rights, royalties, jurisdictions, im- munities, privileges, profits, commodities, advantages, emoluments, and appurtenances whatsoever to the said manor belonging,— — passed from the noble house of Stanley to the family of Bell, in which they yet continue. The father of Ralph Bell, who purchased the manor of Thirsk, was Robert Bell, descended from an old Border family, a senior branch of the Bells of Wolsington, who had two sons, Ralph and John, and a daughter married to Peter Consitt, Esq. By his will, dated Sep. 22nd, 1707, he gives.to his sons and other relations, each a broad piece of gold as a keepsake. At the time of his de- cease he was possessed of a capital messuage or chief mansion house, situate in Kirkgate in Thirsk, twenty-two messuages or dwelling houses, also in Thirsk, and 200 acres of land in the town fields. Five messuages, five cottages, and 500 acres of land in Dalton; houses, buildings, and 80 acres of land in Sutton-under- Whitstonecliff; 80 acres of land in Carlton Miniott; 80 acres of land in South Kilvington, 90 acres in Sowerby, and 28 acres in Bagby. This estate was in possession of Ralph Bell before he purchased the manor. Robert Bell was buried Aug. 23rd, 1711, and Elizabeth his widow, May 20th, 1715. Ralph Bell, Esq. married March 3rd, 1697, at the Minster, York, Rachel, third daughter of by whom he had two sons and two daughters—Ralph, born October 1720; Peter, born Jan. 1726; Elizabeth, born May 1736, and Mary. Elizabeth was married to Peter Consitt, Esq., of Brawith, and was mother of the late War- cop and Peter Consitt, Esqrs. Mary married Robert Livesey, Esq., of Livesey Park, Lancashire.* * The issue of this marriage was an only daughter, who died at the age of eighteen. On the death of Robert Livesey, Esq., without other issue, at Sutton Hall, Livesey Park passed to Robert Bell, Esq., who sold it, and purchased Kildale with the pro- a dog and gun ; also of his daughter, a little girl with a dog and nosegay, and of Mrs. Livesey and her father R. Bell, Esq., all by Van Loe. Sperone See eine se eden nhs nena stents eestor eevee ionisation: lige ance THIRSK. 1g In 1710 Ralph Bell, Esq. was elected a representative of the Borough of Thirsk, in Parliament; again in 1713; and a third time in 1715. In 1717 he was appointed by government one of the Customers of the port of Hull. He was buried November ord, 1735. Ralph Bell succeeded his father as lord of the manor of Thirsk. He married Anne, daughter and coheiress of Edward Conyers, Esq., by whom he had John, his eldest son and heir. Robert, of Kildale (who assumed the name and arms of Livesey, in addition to those of Bell) born April 1st, 1768, married 1794, Jane, daughter of the Rey. Dr. Cleaver of Malton, and had issue, Marianne, married to Edmund Turton, Esq., of Upsall. The other child of Ralph Bell was a daughter, Marianne, who married Dec. 3rd, 1798, the Rev. Henry Gale, M.A. John Bell, Esq., was the next owner of the manor of Thirsk. He was born October 3rd, 1764, and married in 1800, Frances Brady Barnett, third daughter of the Honble. William Barnett, of Arcadia, Island of Jamaica, and had issue, Ralph, born in 1805, died in infancy. John, who succeeded his father. Frances, married Sept. 2nd, 1823, to the Rev. William Mac- bean, M.A., Rector of Peter Tavy, Devon., and had issue Frederick, of whom hereafter. Archibald, born July 10th, 1832. Alfred, born 1833, died October, 1847. Frances Bell, who in 1847 mar- ried the Rev. Mr. Smith, of Easton Maudit, Northamptonshire, and Elizabeth. The other child of John Bell was Jane, who married, firstly, Sept. 1833, Captain Bayntun, of the 12th Lancers; and, secondly, Major Sanders, of the Austrian service. John Bell, eldest surviving son of John Bell, Esq., was born August 11th, 1809. In 1841 he was elected M.P. for the Borough of Thirsk. He stood on liberal principles, and was a steady sup- porter of Lord Melbourne’s administration, and a constant advo- cate for general education, liberty of conscience, the press, and general reform; although opposed to vote by ballot, and the repeal of the corn laws. He continued the popular representative of the 74 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. borough until the time of his death, March, 1850. Dying without issue, he was succeeded in his estates by his nephew, Frederick, son of his sister Frances, who assumed the name of Bell only, in lieu of that of Macbean. He was born in Dec. 1830. He was a captain in the North York Rifles, but retired. He is lord of the Manor of Thirsk, chairman of the Board of Guardians © of the Thirsk Poor Law Union, a Magistrate, and deputy Lieu- tenant of the North-Riding of the county of York. ARMS. Per chevron, az. and sa.,a chevron engrailed with plain cottises between three bells, argent. ; Motto. Spes mea copia fecit. Turning from the history of the lords of the manor to the history of the town itself, we do not find many great events to chronicle. In 1489, the greatest part of Yorkshire, and the neighbourhood — of Thirsk in particular, was disturbed by an insurrection raised against the levying of a subsidy for carrying on the war in Brit- tainy, which was so displeasing to the people that they refused to pay it. The king refused to remit it; and on the earl of North- umberland somewhat harshly announcing the same to the assem- bled people at Topcliffe, they broke into his manor house there, and barbarously murdered him.* Having thus begun a rebellion they chose sir John Egremond for their leader, with whom was ' joined John A’Chambre, a native of Thirsk; who is styled by the historians “a factious fellow,” “a person of mean extraction, but possessed of some talent,” “‘a perfect incendiary, but much beloved by the common people.” Under these commanders the people de- clared their intention to march against the king, and fight for their liberties and properties. The king was not discouraged by the news of this rebellion ; he sent Thomas earl of Surrey against them, with only a small force, himself following after with a much stronger, in order to ensure success. But Surrey thought himself strong enough to encounter * There is a tradition that the earl of Northumberland was massacred under the elm tree on St. James’ Green in Thirsk, but it does not appear to be supported by any evidence, although Rapin alludes to the subject. 1 ‘ . Ae RS A gy RS hs stn sin ss canes pita ete eee A A A A EE ED = SA ST NN A cs ei nec THIRSK. 75 alone araw and half-armed multitude; he met with, and defeated their main body at Ackworth, near Pontefract,* taking John A’Chambre prisoner, with many of his followers. The rest fled to York, where, upon the earl’s approach, they durst not stand a siege, but ran out of the city, some one way, some another. Egre- mond escaped to Flanders, where he was protected by Margaret duchess of Burgundy. John A’Chambre was executed in great state at York, for as a traitor paramount he was hanged on a gib- bet raised a stage higher than ordinary, in the midst of a square gallows, while a number of his men were hanged on the lower story round about him. The king soon after returned to London, leaving sir Richard Tunstall, his principal commissioner, to levy the subsidy, of which he did not remit one penny. Thirsk is very slightly mentioned by historians and topographers. Old Leland, about the year 1544, thus speaks of it in his Itinerary, “1 saw the small market town of Tresk on the right Hond about A Mile from Brakenbyri. At Tresk was a Great Castle of the Lords Mowbrays. And there is now a Park with praty wood about it. There is much land about that Quarter holden of the Signiorie of Tresk. The Broke caullid Coddebeck rising y® the Browes of Blake More, thereby commith by Tresk, and after that goith into Willowe beck Ryver.” | Camden in his Britannia, A.D. 1582, says “ Thresk, commonly Thrusk, had formerly a very strong castle, where Roger de Mow- bray began his rebellion, and call’d in the King of Scots to the destruction of his country; King Henry the second having very unadvisedly digg’d his own grave, by taking his son into an equal share of the government and royalty. But this sedition was, at last as it were quencht with blood, and the castle utterly demo- lished, so that I could see nothing of it there besides the rampire.” Blome in his Britannia, 1673, says, “Thrusk a small borough town, which electeth Parliament men, where there was once a most strong castle, hath a little market on Mondays, and is at present of some note for its good ale.” * Boothroyd’s Hist. of Pontefract, p. 140. 76 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. | 7 The eccentric Richard Braithwaite, alias Barnaby Harrington, alias Drunken Barnaby, who died in 1673, mentions Thirsk in his rhymes. “‘Thence to Thyrske, rich Thyrsis casket, Where fair Phillis fills her basket With choice flowers ; but these be vain things, I esteem no fiowers, nor swainlings ; In Bacchus yard, field, booth, or cottage, I love nought like his cold pottage.’’* ¥ In 1553 the town was summoned to send two members a Par- During the reign of Elizabeth, when England mustered all its strength to repel the Spanish invasion, the wapontake of Bird- | ° forth, of which Thirsk is the chief town, supplied men, money, and arms, as below.T * The ‘‘cold pottage of Bacchus,’ loved by the facetious Barnaby appears to be only a synonyme for the ‘good ale”’ of old Blome. ! | | | liament, when Thomas Legh and Reginald Beseley were returned. | | | + 24th Eliz., 1581. A rate assessed towards the kingdom’s provision, Birdforth paid 12/. 6s. 2d., of which Thirsk paid 7s. 10d., Woodallfield 4s. 6d., Carlton Miniott | and Islebeck 5s., and Topcliffe 8s. 10d. . 28th Eliz., 1585, Sep. 20. ‘‘ The charge for 2000 foot men charged upon iota | men,’’ was Picicdonfstire 667, Langbargh and Whitby Strand 400, Bulmer 289, | Ridale 200, Birdforth 180, Allertonshire 140, Pickering Lyth 220, Scarborough 23. 29th Eliz. A division for thé proportion of 400 horse in Yorkshire, whereof 133 | were allotted to the North Riding. Richmondshire 44, Langbargh and Whitby Strand 26, Bulmer 27, Ridall 14, Birdforth 11, Allertonshire 10, Pickering Lyth and Scarborough 11. A charge for 220 Oxen for her Majesty’ s P’vision, at 31. 16s. 8d. each—4221. 13s. 4d. The West-riding paid 1687. 12s. 8d.; North, 2407. 10s. 9d.; East, 1110. 9s. LOd. ; Birdforth Wapontake, 112. 14s. 2d. 3lst Eliz. A rate for light horse in Birdforth. The lady Katharine Constable 2; | sir William Bellassis, Knt., 2; Thos. Lascelles, Esq., 2; Ra. Tankard, Gent., for his own land and Mr. Mennell 2; Bryan Askwith, Gent., 1; Oswald Metcalf, Gent., 1; | John Clough, Yeo., 1. | The charge of the Common armour wth their p’ticular furniture, as they are | charged in evye towne, hamlett, and Grainge within the Wapontake of Birdforth. A.D. 1591. | Thirsk—Corslets 4, Calivers 3, Bylls 1. | Woodallfield—Corslets 1, Caliyer 1. | Thorpfield—Cors. 1, Bill1. Sowerbie—Cors. 2, Cal. 3, Billl. Bagby, Bagby Cote, | and ffawdington—Cors. 2, Cal. 2, Byll1, Archers 1. South Kilvington—Cors. 1, Cal. 2, Billl. Thornbrough—Cal. 1, Billl. Upsall—Cors. 1, Archers 1. Kirbye Knowle—Cal. 1, Billl. &c. For the whole wapontake—Corslets 63, Calivers 72, Bills 28, Archers 18.—Total 181. The charge for the private armour wthin this wapontake is—Corslets xx, Calivers | ‘xx, Archers c, Bills xxx—Total cLxxx. | Anno Regni Eliz. xxxx. The Streite for the Collect of money wthin the wapontake | THIRSK. Ba At the Quarter Sessions of the Peace for the North-riding of the county of York, held at Thirsk April 20th, 1636, six Justices attempted to fix the rate of wages, viz: “A bailiff or husbandman wh™ these parts is called an Over- man, that is servant of a gentleman that doth not labour shall not take by the year with meat and drinke above fower mke & a liverie. A chief servant of a husbandman that oversees other servants shall not take above eight shillings and his liverie. A miller that is skillfull in mending of his milne shall not have above fiftie shillings, and if he have no skill to mend his milne not above fortie shillings. A servant in husbandrie that can mowe and plow well shall not take for his wages w* meat & drink above fortie shillings and noe liverie; and every other servant shall not have above xxxs. and noe liverie. A young man between the age of xviii and xxii shall not take for his wages by the yeare w” meate and drinke, above 26s. 8d., and noe liverie. And from xii to xviii for a young man xiiis. iid. And for a mayde servant of the same years not above xilis. 1d. A woman servant that taketh charge of brewing, bakeing, milk- yng, or malt-making, that is hired with a gent., rich widd., or rich yeoman, whose wife doth not take the charge and payne upon her, shall not take for wages with meate and drinke more than xxxilis. iiiid. by the yeare. — ) Any other woman servant not more than xxiiiid. ‘A mower of grass shall not take by the day w™ meate & drinke of Birdforth for the Purveyors, according to the last compotus yearly to be paid. Thirsk vs., Woodallfield iiiid., Thorpfield and Thorp-under-leaf xvid., Sowerby liiis., Carlton Miniott iis., Sand Hutton xvid., South Kilvington iis., Bagby and Bagby Cote iis. vid. The above'are now included in the Borough of Thirsk. We give a few more extracts—Topcliffe iis. iiiid., Little Park iiis., Great Park iiis., Nether Silton and Little Leak iiis., Keelbeck and Hollin-bower iiis., Arden Abbey liis., Ardenside iis. iiid., Thirkleby xvid., Kirby Knowle and Park iiiis., Upsall iis., Hood Grange iiis. iiiid., Marderbie liis. iiiid., Mount and ffelixkirke iiis. The above statistics are copied from a MS. called “ Extracts from my Lord Fau- conbergh’s Book of Quarter Sessions,’’ now in possession of F. BELL, Esq., The Hall, Thirsk. t —— ce nT eee ne ee nt RC CT CE tC, eee OL ER A A A 9 pt 78 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. above iilid., and without not above xiid. And for an acre of mea- dow mowing without meate & drinke not above xd. And for mowing, binding, and setting in stooke of one acre of corne w® meate & drinke, not above xvuid. A shearer or binder of corn shall not take by the day w meate & drinke above iuid., and without not above viiid. A haymaker, weeder, or looker of corn, with meate, &c., iid., without not above viiid. A mayster Tayler beynge a householder according to the statute, that shall make gentlemen and gentlewomen their apparel, shall not take by the day above iiid., and an apprentice not above iid., with meate & drinke. : A common labourer iid., and vd. in winter; and id. & vid. in summer, with meate, &c. No man shall take for threshing a quarter of harde corne above xiid., and for a quarter of waire corn not above vuid. A mayster free mason in winter lilid. with meate, &e., without xd.; in summer vid. and xiid. per day. All others, not appren- tices, uid. and xid. A mayster Carpenter in winter without meate and Ashish vilid. and with iilid.; in summer without xiid., with vid. per day.” * * Attempts have often been made by the legislature to fix the rate of wages, as in 1348, 1388, 1444, and 1514—always without success. We give a few specimens of each period. 20th Edward III. (1348). 12th Richd. II. (1388). | Mowers of meadows by the acre.. vd. Bailiff in Husbandry, clothing by the day... vd. ; ONIGE,.; = Lee cecsene DY Jour 393 3° Reapers of corn first week in Aug. 2d. per day 3d. » second Without meat or drink. 33 Threshers for a quarter of wheat , 22d or rye, not over Barley, beans, or peas @eeoeveaeeree8 Others Others Their servants....... ea fs et 3d. Without meat or drink. ae oe 13d. A master gee ie per day ...... 3d. -ee@ee_eteereseneeesee reser 2d. A master freemason .o2.2..50. Ad. Master hye: sissaceeeee eeceece Carter ....caeesssnienee eee ‘ Shepheard | ..veesss eee eeeeee - Oxeheard. . ,. Signce ee anaes 6 8 Swineheard,......... ee ew A woman labourer ......s.... 2s. estesccens 4) oe Servant in husbandry . ........ 15 0} Servant in husbandry .......... 16 8 / EE i ip ors dinla.c sews = « sd none Clothing, 020% a sis idk Sipe ye | i WGMIIEGSCTVADL .. 5. 0.~~-0~--- 10 0 | Woman servant...... Svensson 10 0 OO SS Peo VOhsthinne §. 553 2 es ST 40) 4 With meat and drink. Master mason, summer ........ 4d. By the year with meat and drink. with meat, and without .... 53d. | Tylers, Slaters, &c. .... 3d.and 43d. Their labourers ........ 2d. and 33d, | Free masons, carpenters, rough masons, In winter ld. less. tylers, plumbers, glaziers, carvers, POMAWEr coneece-s-....4d.and 6d. joiners, 6d. per day, without meat, Reaper ....-. me eee Sd and: Sid. &c., 4d. with, in summer—in win- Woman labourer ...... 2id.and 43d. ter, od. and 3d. | * See Par. Reg. + The following extracts from the Parish Register tell the names and regiments of the foreign soldiers who died during their sojourn here.— “ Burials, 1745. Dec. 31. Abraham Cruitz, a Dutch soldier of La Rocque’s Regt. Jan. 12. Jan Scharles, a Dutch soldier of Villate’s Regiment. 35 20. Engel Adryan, a Dutch soldier of La Rocque’s Rest. >, 28. Adolff Schellard,a Dutch soldier of Pr. Holsten Gott- dorf’s Regt. », 380. Jacob Laute,a Dutch soldier of Pr. Holsten Gottdorf’s Regt. » 31. Arent Walters, a Dutch soldier of La Rocque’s Regiment.” Five other soldiers died here within the same period—from their names, apparently, Englishmen, A espe peppy tte apn pcan 80 _ THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. In 1754 the river Codbeck overflowed its banks, swept away the bridge at the bottom of Finkle-street, and did much damage to property on both sides of its course. In 1768 an act of Parliament was obtained for making (amongst other things) the river Codbeck navigable from its junction with the Swale to Thirsk. The difference of level was found to be only thirty-six feet, requiring five locks to keep the water at the proper height. The works were begun at the Thirsk end, a basin was constructed for the vessels, and a wharf built for the landing of goods; a lock was erected near Sowerby, and the river deep- ened and its course straightened. The funds failed and the project proved abortive. The wharf yet remains, with large iron rings to which barges should have been moored, and the lock near Sowerby taken down, was converted into a bridge. Had the scheme been realised it would have been of considerable advantage to the town and trade of Thirsk. From its situation on one of the great roads leading north and south, Thirsk had a fair share of the benefits derived from the traffic and passengers then carried on by stage waggons and coaches. There are persons yet living in the town who remember the first coach passing through it: and strings of pack horses loaded with fish passing from the north into the western part of the county. In 1823, besides the Royal Mails four times a day, three other coaches passed daily through the town, and a dozen carriers at least came and went during the week. This continued a prosperous business until the opening of the Great North of Engiand Railway in 1841, when the waggons and coaches disap- peared from the roads, and the thundering rush of the railway train was heard in their stead.* * John Bigland in his “‘ Beauties of England and Wales,”’ vol. vi., p. 285, says— ** one of the chief inconveniences of Thirsk, and the whole Vale of Mowbray, is the scarcity and high price of coal, which is brought from the county of Durham in small carts containing from 18 to 22 bushels, and varies in price accordiug to the season. This is one among many arguments that might be adduced to shew the ad- vantages that would result from intersecting the Vale of York by a canal from the Tees to the Ouse.’’ Hutton, in his ‘* Trip to Coatham,”’ 1808, dismisses Thirsk with a very brief notice.— ** Thirsk 11 miles from the Tontine is a handsome town, but disgraced by a shabby ee ee nee RA NS AR AS EE ee THIRSK. 81 In May, 1826, the bridge with the roads and streets on the east side of the town, were flooded to such an extent, in the space of half-an-hour, as to be impassable for carts and coaches: the water flowing up Finkle-street nearly to the Market-place. This inun- dation was caused by the bursting of a water-spout or thunder cloud, on Clump hill, about half a mile from the town on the Sutton road. In 1832 the passing of the Reform Bill changed the constituency of the Borough, swept away the privileges of the old Burgage holders, and gave the right of electing parliamentary representa- tives to the occupiers of houses worth 10/. per annum; at the same time taking away one of the members, and enlarging the bounds. of the Borough from fifty-two housesin @ld Thirsk, to the whole town, and the adjoining villages of Bagby, South Kilvington, Sowerby, Carlton Miniott, and Sand Hutton. — The town was first lighted with Gas in 1836. The undertaking was a private speculation of Mr. James Malim, of Hull. Previous to that time it was lighted with oil lamps, purchased by subscrip- tion in 1819. In 1857, the works were enlarged and the mains extended to Sowerby. As already stated, in 1841 the Great North of England Rail- way was opened to the public, and this town placed in easy com- munication with all parts of the country, by more rapid means than it had hitherto possessed. In 1844 the line was completed from London to Newcastle-on-Tyne, and trains ran the whole dis- tance, 303 miles, in about nine hours and a half. About five years afterwards the Leeds and Thirsk Railway gave readier access to the manufacturing districts. Acts of Parliament for the enclosure of the commons and town range of buildings in the Market-place: rubbish surrounded by beauty. The situa- tion is on the great road from London to the North, yet contains but one Inn for the reception of travellers; but it is an excellent one, though kept by a woman, Mrs. Cass. In this place was a castle, the property of the Mowbray family, long gone to decay. Here opened the rebellion mentioned in Topcliff, in the reign of Henry VII., upon the introduction of a noxious tax. The famous John a’ Chambre was at the head of the insurrection. The insurgents were reduced by the earl of Surrey; John was executed. Thirsk claims a long antiquity. It is connected with a principal Roman road.” G §2 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. fields of Thirsk were obtained 41st Geo. III., 1800;* 1st Geo. IV., 1820; and 6th and 7th of William IV. The award bears date May 10th, 1845. The sole commissioner was Henry Scott, Esq., of Oulston. The total quantity of the open and common arable fields allotted and enclosed was 314a. Or. 20p., and the same was comprised in ten open town fields called “ North Dowber, Stoneybrough, South Dowber, Wetlands, Near West Field, Far West Field, Near Carlton Butts, Far Carlton Butts, Underwood, and Bowncrofts.” ; In 1850 the annual show of the Yorkshire Agricultural Society was held at Thirsk; the number of entries of stock was 461, ex- ceeding that of the previous year at Leeds by 65, and that of the following year at BridlMgton by 59. Annual races were established at Thirsk in 1854; they are held in the spring, and continue for two days. The course lies between the town and the railway station, and is considered the best in the North of England, especially as a trial course for two-year-old horses. The races are upheld by subscriptions from the town’s people and neighbouring gentry. Of men distinguished in art, science, or literature, Thirsk and its neighbourhood has not been prolific; its ancient worthies were more distinguished as warriors than as authors, more conversant with the sword than the pen. In more modern and peaceful times they have been content to fight “ the battle of life” for daily bread, * Previous to this time the town was surrounded by a few small enclosed tofts and garths, the homesteads and buildings in the town, and the farms scattered at random all over the common fields—here an acre, there a rood. Improvement for the farmer was next to an impossibility, as the fencing and draining of his land depended as much on the caprice of his neighbour as on himself. In 1629asmall farm of 293 acres, occupied by Nicholas Robinson, had the house and buildings in the Market-place, a Rayn in Prior Flatt, and the land scattered over the fields in 53 different places, in the following manner— a. Tr. a. fr. In the West Field...... 17 2in 5 places. | In the Stoneybrough .. 1 24 in 4 places. Inthe Wett Lands .... 30in3 ,, In the North Dowber.. 21 in3 ,, In the West Field and In the South Dowber.. 20 in4 ,, Carlton Butts:..6. b 2im6. . 4 In the Cawsabarugh ..03 in3 ,, In the Bonecross ...s.. 0 3in3 ,, In the North and South In sth. pt.of Underwood 31in1l0 ,, Lands ‘iene apices OS MB shy In sth. pt.of NorthIngs 1 2in6 ,, In Barley Garth Ends... 03 in3_,, NS Seen ks a “_ THIRSK. 83 and the few local advantages that wealth can give, instead of striving to climb ** The steep where Fame’s proud temple shines afar.”’ _The following biographical memorabilia of literary men, natives, or residents of the town of Thirsk, are all that have come to our knowledge. Thomas Clarkson of Playford Hall, the great anti-slavery leader and philanthropist, was a scholar at the grammar school, then held in the room under the chancel of Thirsk church. His initials, until lately were marked on the wall. He however left the town when about fourteen years of age. «‘ His was the great master mind whick by its apostolical agency, sought to establish freedom for the slave, in opposition to one of the most formidable and detestable confederacies which ever afflicted humanity or disgraced the world.” Chief Justice Wilde began his professional life in Thirsk, as ar- ticled clerk to a solicitor named Walker. He left the town when about seventeen years of age. _ The Rev. J. B. Jefferson, an Independent minister, wrote “ The History of Thirsk ;” published in 1821. He died at Attercliffe, near Sheffield, in 1826. The Rey. R. Keeling, for some years a Wesleyan minister at Thirsk, wrote a biography of Farel, a contemporary of Luther’s. Matthew M. Milburn, for several years secretary to the Yorkshire agricultural society, was author of numerous approved hand books and essays on agricultural subjects. The Rev. James Catton, a Wesleyan minister, author of a poem entitled “ Eden,” was stationed for some time in Thirsk. The Rey. J. J. Barr, also a Wesleyan, resided here a few years: he is author of “ Recollections of a Minister,” “Chapters to the Young;” and contributions to the Wesleyan Magazines. The Rey. John Kelly, now of Liverpool, ap eminent Indepen- dent minister, and author of a valuable work entitled “ Discourses on Holy Scripture,” was for some time in his youth resident in Thirsk. ¥ - j P > w x " i = $Y A A LLL LLL LL LLL LOCA LC tt et tit en TA ats NN ttt es ne ss he: ssn en ene nae a et — - 84 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The Rev. Frederick Addison, a native of Thirsk, Episcopal minister of Cleator near Whitehaven, formerly of Ossett, is author of a pamphlet report of a lecture on “The Great Empires of the Earth.” The Rev. R. Burgess, now minister of one of the Chelsea parishes, and one of the clergymen of the Established Church who have preached lately in Exeter Hall, and who is supposed by many to have a fair prospect of becoming a bishop, in his youth, was placed as an apprentice with a shoemaker in Kirkgate in this town. He is author of “Topography and Antiquities of Rome,” 2 vols., “Tour in Greece and the Levant,” 2 vols., and other works. Ella, at present one of the best musicians in orchestral per- formances, in Her Majesty’s theatre and other concerts in London, originally sprung from an old Saxon family, which for three hundred years has been settled at Upsall, Kirkby Knowle, Bagby, and other places in the neighbourhood of Thirsk. ; In speaking of the living notabilities of the town, we ought not to forget the self-taught artist Mr. Bartholomew Smith; who from his youth upward has been engaged in commercial pursuits, not- withstanding which he has acquired a high degree of excellency in drawing and oil painting, as well as displayed much fine feeling and artistic genius. Nearly all his leisure time has been devoted to the cultivation of this fine art, and consequently he has pro- duced a great number of works, principally landscapes with cattle, and sea scenes; most of which are now in private hands at Leeds, Manchester, and York. He has occasionally sent pictures to the Liverpool Academy, and the York Art Union, as well as contri- buted to the Boston Anti-Slavery Bazaar. Of his donations to the last, one was purchased by Mrs. H. B. Stowe, and a scene from “ Uncle Tom’s Cabin,” now in the collection of a gentleman of Rochester (U.S.) was much admired. His best works are, perhaps, a “ Harvest Field,” now at York. And of those that still remain in his own possession—‘“ A Family Group”—*“ An Evening Cattle piece,” and a large view of “ Rivaulx Abbey ”—(a monument of skill and industry). Mr. Smith has for many years conducted a drawing class in connection with the Mechanics’ Institute, and ~~ THIRSK. 85 by his influence and example has encouraged a taste for art amongst the rising generation of the town. Mr. Thomas Smith, a brother of the above, was a man of more than ordinary talent; his mind was methodical in a high degree, and he delighted and excelled in close and logical reasoning, cal- culation, and statistics. He was chairman of the Thirsk Poor Law Union for many years before his death. The savings bank, dis- pensary for the poor, and every charitable institution and public improvement in the town was promoted and encouraged by him. A more estimable man never breathed. Jonah Horner, M.D., now a resident physician in Thirsk, is author of two medical works in a popular style, entitled “ Instruc- tions to the Invalid on the nature of the, Water Cure, 1855”—and “ Health: what preserves and what destroys it, 1857,” &c. Mr. J. G. Baker, a resident and native of Thirsk, is author of many valuable works on Botany, &c. He published, in conjunction with Mr. Nowell of Todmorden, a “Supplement to the Flora of Yorkshire” in 1854 ; also a pamphlet on the “ Geognostic relations of the plants of Britain ;” and a series of contributions to the Phy- tologist, from 1851 to 1857. He has also published two fasciculi of dried specimens “ Hieracia of North Yorkshire and Teesdale,” and “ Plantee Criticee Britannice Exsicatee, 1855.” The chapter on “The Geology, Botany, Natural History, and Physical Geography of the Vale of Mowbray” contained in this volume, is contributed by him. The following old ballad was published by Dr. Kenrick in 1765. “Che Garber of Chirsk’s forfeits. 3 First come, first served—Then come no? late, And when arrived keep your sate (seat) ; For he who from these rules shall swerve, Shall pay his forfeit—So observe. Pes II. Who enters here with boots and spurs, Must keep his nook, for if he stirs, And gives with arm’ed heel a kick, A pint he pays for every prick. | | | | : | | | | | | | | | | | Ne Ee 86 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. aii: Who rudely takes another’s turn, By forfeit glass—may manners learn ; Who reverentless shall swear or curse, Must lug seven ha’-pence from his purse. Who checks the vista his tale, Shall pay for that a gill of yale; Who will, or cannot miss his hat, Whilst trimming pays a pint for that. ' And he who can but bh not pay, Shall hence be sent half trimm’d away; For will he—nill he—if in fault, He forfeit must in meal or malt. But mark the man who is in drink, Must the cannikin oh, ee never, clink,”’ We recommend the humour of the above to the followers of the “ Barber’s craft” in Thirsk at this our day. During the 17th century, tradesmen in Thirsk, as well as nearly all towns, coined tokens to supply the deficiency of copper money. We have only met with two belonging to this town. One of them bears on the obverse, the arms of the family of Bell, (same as now borne by Frederick Bell, Esq., of the Hall) et ROBERT BELL. On the reverse OF THIRSKE, 1664, in the field p®-, This token is of brass, very thin, and about the size of a fourpenny piece. The other bears on the obverse the grocers’ arms, and — PAGE IN. On the reverse THIRSK, 1668, and in the field ; The following remarks on this kind of coinage, are by Jai ames Wardell, Esq., author of “'The Antiquities of Leeds.” “Previously to the death of king Charles I., the English copper coinage was not only scanty, but in a most deplorable state, and so serious was the inconvenience to the public that tradesmen through- out the country assumed the privilege of coining and issuing “Tokens” in brass and copper, bearing the name and often the trade of the issuer, in addition to the denomination. They are of very inferior design and workmanship, and of various forms, the circular one being the most common, but varieties exist of the square, octagonal, heart, and lozenge shapes. This species of coin- age continued in circulation from the year 1648 to 1672, when it was ordered to be discontinued by royal proclamation. Some of a =| = THIRSK. 87 the specimens are very curious, and after supplying the require- ments of trade in their day, are not without their use even now, from the light they throw on family history ; and this county was very prolific in the issue of them, there being about four hundred varieties known to be in existence.” THE MANOR OF THIRSK. AT the time of the Domesday survey, as already noticed, there were two manors in Thirsk, one in the hands of the King, the other in those of Hugh the son of Baidric; both were soon after- wards held by the Mowbrays: they do not appear however to have become united until subsequent to the age of Henry VIII. About the year 1277, we find that the manor of Woodhall at Thirsk, was held by Roger de Mowbray in demesne, for three _earucates of land, of the King in capite. And Adam de Pyketon* held in the same manor one carucate of land and three acres of meadow of Roger de Mowbray, who held it of the king in capite, by no rent.t In 1821, King Edward II. gave to John earl of Richmond and Brittany, among others, the manor of Woodhall, and the town of Thirsk, which had belonged to John de Mowbray.t{ This manor was again held by the Mowbrays, at least, till the ist Henry IV., when we lose sight of it, until 34th Henry VIIL, 1543, when on the 19th of February in that year, it was granted * Torre’s MSS, + Ade de Piketon in 1313 had a confirmation from the king of 40s. rent in fee in Belton, of the men of Roger de Mowbray, with all the land called Calvehow (q. Calvis Hall) in the territory of Thirsk, with a meadow belonging to the same, with common of pasture and all birds in the Park. “Pat. (, Haw. 11.,p. 1, mi. 23. “Rex confirmavit Ade de hyd in feodo 40s., reddit in Belton de Hominibus Rogeri de Mowbray in Belton, Xc., totam terram vocat Calvehow in Territorio de Thresk, subtus Dunland unacum Prato pertinen ad eandem Terram ac cum ‘Comn- munia Pastur ad omnia Averia sua in Parco dicti Rogeri de Dunyland, &c.”’ + “ Carta. 15 Edw. II., n. 20. ** Rex pauneait Johanni de Britannia Comiti aceite (inter alia) Manerium de la Wodehalle et Villam de Thresk. Com. Ebor. cum beg que fuerunt Johannis de Mowbray, &c.’’ 88 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. by letters patent under the great seal of England to Robert Archbishop of York. By a Deed of exchange (now in the Augmentation Office) the same Robert Archbishop of York conveys to King Henry VIII. (inter alia) the manor of Thirsk and all his estate there, receiving from the King (amongst other things) in return the Rectory of Thirsk, the advowson of the Vicarage, with the Tithe Corn of Sowerby and other places belonging thereto. We give an extract from this Deed.— “This Ind’re made the sixte day of Februarie in the sixe & thirtie yere of the reign of the most Excellente and Victorious Prynce our Natural Soveraigne Lorde Henry the Eighth, by the Grace of God Kinge of England, France, and Ivlande, Defendour of the Faith and of the Churche of England and also of Irlande, in Erthe the supreme hedde. Betweene the same our soveraigne Lord the Kinge, of th’ one partie, and the Revende Father in God Robert Archebusshoppe of York of th’ other partie. Witnessethe that the saide Archebusshoppe hath bargayned and solde and for hym and his successeours doth fullie and clerely geve, graunte, bargayne, and sell unto our said Soveraigne Lorde the Kinge to his Heires and Successours for ever (inter alia). All those Lord- shippes and Manours of the said Archebusshoppe of Topclyffe, Thurske, Asenby, Gristhwaite, Difford, Renton, Newby, Skipton, Catton, Northby, Dalton, Carlton, &c., in the said countie of Yorke, with all their members, Rights, Comodities, and Appurte- I TI me pe nances.” The deed then goes on to describe the appurtenances of the said manor, as messuages, burgages, pastures, deer-houses, barearies, woods, &c., &c.—‘* whiche the saide Archebusshoppe — in right of the said Archebusshopprick of Yorke is entitled, or ought to have in the saide places before mentioned, which our said Soveraigne Lorde the King by his letters patents, sealed un- der the Greate Seale of England bearing date the 19th Feby., in the four and thirtie year of his Majesty’s Reign did geve and graunt unto Edward late Archebusshoppe of Yorke and to his successours. “In consideration of, and for whiche Bargayne, &c., our said ~ rrr mn eg gerne at RE On YN ne a ee — Se ee ee ee THIRSK,. 89 Sovereign Lord the Kinge is contented and pleased, and by these present Indentures for hym his heires and successours promiseth, graunteth, bargayneth, and agreeth, to and with the said now Archebusshoppe and his successours, that the said now Arche- busshoppe shall from henceforth have, hold, and enjoy to him, and to his successours for ever, All those Rectories, parsonages, and Churches, of our saide Soveraign the Kinge, of Gisborne, &c. And also all those messuages, orchards, Barnes, and Tithes of Corne of our saide Soveraigne Lorde the Kinge, with their appur- tenances in Thirske in the said countie of Yorke, &c., &c.”* The present manor includes Thirsk, Sand Hutton, Carlton Miniott, and Bagby. The earlier records and Court-rolls of the manor have perished, and it is only from the year 1623, when James earl of Derby was Lord, that any full account of the manor and the proceedings of its courts can be given, for in that year the existing Court-rolls commence. First on the roll we have the names of the Free Tenants (Lib’i Tenantes) who held their lands by military service. They are a numerous and respectable body, holding lands in many parts of Yorkshire—shewing the extent and importance of the Lordship of Thirsk when the feudal law was in its full vigour. The entries are in abbreviated Latin, we give them in English. William Lord Eure for land in Malton and Welham. Henry Bellassis, Knight and Bart., for his manor of Coxwold and Thornton-on-the-Hill. Charles Cavendish, Esq., for land in Hovingham, Fryton, and Slingsby. William Lascelles, Esq., for Brackenbaragh. Henry Slingsby, Kt., for land in Moor Monkton, late Fairfax. Christ. Danby, Esq., for land in Cave and elsewhere. Thomas Wentworth, Kt. and Bart., for the manor of Thorp Arch. *It has been suggested to us that the manors, lands, &c., here exchanged by the archbishop and the king, might only be the lands of the diacaived religious houses, lying within those pets and places. sce epee a ng AE SS EG I ST a 90 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Thomas Cholmley, Esq., for land in Bransby, Steresby, and Brafferton. Charles Meynell, Esq., for the manor of Hawnby. John Huddleston, Esq., for land in Baynton. John Lepton, Esq., for land in Kepwick and Little Leake. Thomas Percy, Esq., for land in Ryton. Robert Thornton, Gent., for land in Newton. Geo. Lamplough, Kt.. for land in Carlton and Sand Hutton. Anthony Palmer, Kt., for the manor of Cowsby. In 1624 we find some additions to the number and changes— Arthur Ingram, Kt., for Breckenbrough, vice Lascelles. James Morley, for the manor of Hawnby, vice Meynell. Thomas, Maleverer, Esq., for land in Allerton and elsewhere. Henry Stapleton, Esq., for land in Easdike and Wighill.* 1627, Francis earl of Rutland, for land in Helmsley and elsewhere. The rents paid by these noble tenants were merely nominal, sometimes 6s. 8d. is marked opposite their names, and sometimes smaller sums. Palmer’s rent for Cowsby was 2s. per annum. Huddleston’s for Baynton the same, others only 1s. The free tenants’ names keep decreasing from the roll, so that in 1794 there are only seven. The most noble Thomas duke of Newcastle, for his lands in Hovingham, Fryton, and Slingsby. Lord Viscount Fauconberg, for his manor of Coxwold and Thornton-on-the-Mount. The most noble duke of Northumberland, for his manor of Breckenbrough. Charles Duncombe, Esq., for his lands in Helmsley. Thomas Worsley, Esq., for his lands in Hovingham. Francis Cholmley, Esq., for his manor of Bransby. Danby, Esq., for his lands in Cave. * By inquisition post mortem made at Thirsk, April 22nd, 1631, the jury say upon oath, that Henry Stapleton, late deceased, held two-and-a-half carucates of land with appurts.,in Easdike and Wighill in the County of York; and they also say that he held them by permission of the most noble James lord Strange, lord of this manor, by knight’s service (servic militar) as half a knight’s fee; and that the an- nual value of the same was 131. 6s, 8d.—Court Rolls of Thirsk Manor, Anno 1631. ~ THIRSK. 91 Francis Huddleston, Esq., for his lands in Bainton. The GRAND INQUEST was held twice in the year, in May and October, at which times the names of all the tenants and “ Rese- ants” within the manor were called over, nuisances presented, “pains” laid, and the officers of the manor appointed. Courts were held every three weeks for the recovery of debts under 40s. Re to which all the wapontake appears to have resorted. In the beginning of the seventeenth century the government and internal police of the town was in the hands of the following officers :— A Borough Bailiff* (Ballivi Burghi) elected stelle before whom the three weeks courts were generally held. _ Two Constables,} for our Lord the King, and the Borough and Town of Thirsk (Constabulari pro D’no. Regis et Burgh et Vil- lam de Thirsk). 7 Two Leather Searchers and Sealers,t (Scrutator et sigillator coriaii pellii). Two Fieldgraves (Supervisor Campo) and one, sometimes two, Pound keepers or Pinders. Four Market Searchers, (Fori Scrutator). Four Ale Tasters,{] (Gustator S’vicia). Four Afferators and twelve Jurymen. # List of Borough Bailiffs as far as can be made out from the Court-rolls.— 1623. Rogerus Ray. 1629. Ric’us Lockwood; Gent. 1624. Raphe Bell. 1630. Thoma Williamson de Bagbye. 1625, Joh’es Donuynge Georgius Simpson, deputy. 1626. X’pofor Lumley. — 1631. Stephanu’ Wilson de Danby Wiske. 1627: Ric’us Phipps. 1632. Joheni Pibus. 1628. Henry Comynge. 1633. Joh’ni Deacon. The above are from the first vol. of court records. 1739. John Routh. 1762. Robert Shepherd, Gent. 1741. William Coates. 1785. Francis Shepherd, Gent. 1742. John Routh. M. Joseph Peat. 1749. Robert Shepherd, Gent. 1832. Mr. Robert Armitage, prest. bailiff. + The Constables for Carlton Miniott and Sand Hutton were also appointed at those Courts, but not the constable of Bagby. } Leather Sealers and Searchers do not oecur after 1767. § Market Searchers appear to have been discontinued in 1750. {| The Ale Tasters (self elected) are in existence yet. a ae a a a eI nS pe A pr! RE LE EE LR LT LT LS 8 senate flit yt sss eset senses 92 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The lord of the manor had also a Seneschal or High Steward, above the Steward or Seneschal who presided at the Grand Inguest. In 1631, “The Rt. Wo'pful St Tho: Postu: Hoby, Kt., Eighe Steward of y* s? Manor.* The courts took cognizance of “ Bloodes,” “ Affrayes,” and “Assalts.” For the first, which implied that blood had been drawn by violence, ten shillings was the common penalty: for the two > others three shillings and fourpence was considered a sufficient expiation. At the court held October 10th, 1623, ten cases of the former, and eighteen of the latter kind were presented, and all the offenders were fined.t Pigs unrung have been a great source of annoyance to local legislators, at all times and in all places. In 1623, we find “quatuor porcus inanulat viid.,” or 2d. each. Afterwards the fine was in- creased to 1s. a sow and Gd. each pig, going at large unrung ; and hardly one of the great court days passes without “pains” being jJaid on pigs. The greatest number of “ pains” relate to the repair of gates and fences, and the scouring of gutters and watercourses. In 1624, we find precautions taken as if an enemy were ex- pected; and an order made, “ That the constables shall hénceforth sett and observe the day watch, and from day to day see the watch be sett, according to the order sett downe, as accustomed by the justices of peace, pon payne of eache of them so neglecting, or making default xxs.’ The duties and wages of the borough bailiff are fully set forth in the following petition to lord Strange, lord of the manor, with his lordship’s answer. * Sir Thomas Posthumus Hoby, Kt., was many years High Steward of this manor. He represented Ripon in five parliaments. + The common form of entering ‘“ Bloodes”’ and “‘ Affrayes.” 1632, “Item Jur. p’di p’ ntant Elizabetham Symondson Vid. et Joheam Symondson filiu eius de Bagby Quia viet armis et insult et affria fecit et violenter sanguinem extraxit in et sup’ Leon’dus Wetherall de ead, infra hoc man’ui s’clit undecimio die April ult. xs.”’ “Item, Jurator, p’di p’sentant Thoma Thornton quia insult et affraia fecit in et sup Edrus Taylor infra hoc Man’ui contra pacem, &c., iiis. iiijd.” THIRSK. 93 “ Octo die Octobris Anno D’ni., 1630. “The righte hon’ble James lord Strange, lord of this manor is well pleased that it shal be declared in open courte that he hath yeielded unto the petic’on exhibbitted by the borroughe bayliffs and borroughmen of the towne of Thirsk, thereupon the third day of Sept., 1627, and th’ther, upon the second day of July, A. D’no. 1630, according to his answer sett upon the same petic’ons, and signed by his lo’ And his lo? is further pleased that true copies of the said peticons and of his lo?’ answer on them written shal be inserted as well in the courte book as in the rowles of this cote in manner following viz. :—* To the righte Wo’pfull S* Tho. Posthu Hoby, knight, chief comissio’r for the righte hon>* James lord Strangue. The humble peticion of Xpofor Lumley, now borough balyffe of Thirske—humbly sheweth unto yo" wo? that the bayliffe of the borough of Thirsk have always had and taken the am’ ciamt* of the estreate that yeare, wherein he was bayliffe to his owne use forfeited and founde against p’sons offenders, although the estreats were in the lord’s name, in regard the bayliffe was att charges of the courte dinners and suppers, and at ffayers w™ the officers, and now of late many w™ are am’ cied will pay nothing, for that they say that he hath not authority to get them up; and yo' peticonr can gett nothing of them, or very little. May it therefore please yo" w? that you would grant yor said peticonr yo" warr* for the collectinge therof to his owne use as formerly he hath done for the strengthening thereof. And he will dayly pray for yo" wo? in all happiness longe to continue. Thus, &c. 2d July, 1630. The bo- rough bayliffs there have anciently and att this instant doe allowe horsmeat and man's meate for the Lords highe Steward, clerke of the courte, their servants and friends, and to the lord’s baliffe and his deputy att all head courts, three week courts, and at all ffayres. And they w* a competent nomber and company of the towne doe attend his lop‘ officers in ryding and p’clayming the ffayres, upon the ffayre dayes, and beares the chardges therof. ® Manor de Thirsk 3 die Sept., 1627. Sst Se mn 94 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The borough baliffe and townsmen doe yearly twise aide the lord’s baliffe in driving the comons and moores, and findinge wayves and straies amongst the great multitudes of cattell, and att the borough baliff’s chardges. And the borough men having free election of burgesses doe usually (if the lord of the manor require the same) electe for one of their burgesses some worthie p’son as the lord comaundeth them. In leiu of w services and charges the borough baliffe hath w'hout tyme wh’rof the memory of man cannot remember the contrary hac. and received the p’quisite of the Co® for Am’ciant* in the towne fields and comons excepte the Am’ciant* for non-ap- pearances, and for neglect of bonds and services. Dele unto his lo? Lathome, 4th of August, 1630. I am contented the borough baliffs shall enjoy what herein they desire upon the termes herein specified during my pleasure: they paying to the steward att ev’ chief c*” We now give a selection of “paines” for offences against the good government of the town. “6th May, 1623, Will’s de Tanfield is presented for selling leather without the same having first been searched and sealed, (non scrutat sigillat vendidebat vs). “ 1628, the jury doe p’sent all brewsters, bakers, and hempe raters, lid. a piece. In 1629, the jury present Christ. Render of Carlton Husthwaite for forstalling the market by selling therein before the ringing of the bell (*antequam campana sonut iis.”) Many are presented for the same offence in the following year. They also present Richard Brittain for selling flesh in the market, which was putrid, and not fit for human food, (“ vendit carnem infra fori de Thirske: qua putrifactus fuit et insalubrio humano corpori xxs.”) 1630, “A payne laid that noe freeholder within the manu® of Thirske, shall erecte any cottage for habitac’on or dwelling, nor convert or ordeyne any building or howsing already made, or hereafter to be made to be used as a cottage for habitaco” or dwell- | THIRSK. 95 ing, unlesse he doe assigne and lay to the said cottage fower acres of grounde att the least accord™s to the measure allowed by the lawes and statutes of this realme, upon payne to fforfitt for ev’ such cottage soe erected unlawfully y* sum of x” “ A payne laid that noe ffreeholder win this manu® shall after the fifth day of March next ensuing, unlawfully contynue any cottage erected since the feast of Easter, w> was in the xxxi™ yeare of her late maty* reigne quene Elizabeth, whereunto there is not _ fower acres of ground assigned and laide accord"? to the said measure upon payne to forfeit for every monith x!” « A payne laid that there shall not be any inmate or more fami- lyes than one in a cottage or other howsing, lawfully erected (except the overseers of the poore shall licence the same) upon payne that ev’ owner and ocupyer of the said cottage or howsing, placing, or willingly suffering any such inmate, or more famylies than one in any such cottage, to forfitt xs. for every moneth that any such in- mate or more famyles than one shall inhabit in any such cottage or howsing aforesaid.” “ A payne laid that noe inhabitant within this manu° doe take, or entertayne any stranger or fory’ to be his ten’nt in any of his houses, till he have firste laid in capital pledges according to the lawe. Andif any such inhabitant or other p’son that have already taken in any such p’son or p’sons into any of their houses, w™ have not founde pledges as aforesaid, that then he or they shall remove such p’sons taken in before the xxv day of M’che next, upon payne to forfeit for every default 39s. xid. ob.” “1630, Jurator p’sentant q* Henricus Kildayle custodit una comu Taberna, Anglice a comon ale house in Thirsk, infra hoc Manueriu in domo in qua modo inhabitat, et vendidit optima cervitia, Anglice, his best beare or ale, ultra rata unius quarta p. uno Denario, contra forma statuti xid.” In 1637, forty alehouse keepers* were presented, and fined four pence each for selling ale beyond the rate fixed by law. Highty- one parties in the same year were presented fourpence each for * In 1823, the number of inns and ale houses was only 26, when the population was probably double. i i Os ee A A LL A, A A RE EG I RA = A A SN a ee eR ay REN ETFS OR OR RR a A A a Res at ee = NR A ee 96 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. “rating hempe” in the river; which shews that its cultivation was then carried on to a considerable extent. In 1633, John Flint and Richard Wright for fishing in the river pay without licence of the lord of the manor, are fined, Flint .. Wright 6d. a 41 “Item, that no person shall grave or get turves off the Westmoor, either with a horse or cart, but what they shall bring on his, her, or their backs, on pain of forfeiting for alias offence 6s. 8d. At the next court, fourteen offenders are fined 5s. each, and sixteen others 2s. 6d. each for getting turves with carts. If we may judge from the following sanitary laws, the streets of Thirsk in the middle of the 18th century were only in a filthy state. 1747, ‘“‘ That the butchers shall not empty their beasts entrails in any of the streets of Thirsk, on pain of forfeiting for every such offence 5s.” This is repeated in 1750, and the penalty is 6s. 8d. 1747, “That no person shall suffer their dunghills to lay in the streets above three days, on pain of forfeiting for every such offence 5s.” ‘That no person shall suffer their carts or waggons to stand in the streets, on pain of forfeiting for every such offence 5s.” “That no scabbed or glandered horses be suffered to feed upon y° commons belonging to Thirsk, on pain of forfeiting every such horse.” In the small debts court we have entries of all kinds of matters in which one person can become indebted to another; we extract a few, shewing the prices of labour, and various other articles at that time. 1623, “vis. for a quarter of coles.” “ xviiid. for a horse load of coles.” 1632, “for half a q™ of raley coales iis. vid.” 1624, “iis. for a bushel of barley.” 1622, “ 7s. 6d. for two bushels of malt.” 1625, “ iis. iilid. for a bushel of hempe seed.” 1627, “xvs. for a quarter of beans.” 1628, “ xxs. p- li qrs of oates.” “39s. for aq’ and halfe of malt.” 1626, xis. foracowgate.” “ixs. for three horses winter grass this last winter in Dowlands.” “xxd. THIRSK. 97 for a calf grass this last somer.” 1625, “iis, vid. for a horse grass five weeks.” 1623, “ixs. for the milk of a cow.” The wages of labour appear very low at this time. 1626, “ for four days’ mowing 4s.” “Jacobus Metcalf, V’sus Joh’es Williamson, p- liis. vid. for his man and his maid servants’ wages, for the man four days, and the maid, wages for three days.” 1630, “ xiiis. pr. a q** of a yere’s srvce from purif’ last until May day next ensuyng viz' att xij. p. weeke.” 1622, “ Will’mo. ffowler, p. v’sus Symon Browne ls. for two days’ mowing, and 8d. for a day’s wage for forking to a stack.” 1626, “ Joh’es Harryson, v’sus Joh’es Buttrick p- iilis. vilid. for not paying his charges when he wente to trayne w? his muskett, being fourteen days w™ he p’mised to pay the p. after iiijd. a day.” 1624, “ Willmus ffowler p. v’sus Thomam Metcalfe uid. p. labore suo xx. ovebz lavabant.” Fourpence for washing twenty sheep—the least sum entered in the books. 1630, “ Rob'tus Dun de Thormandby, p. v’sus Thomas Staveley gent., de eod in plt debi p. ivs. p. salar suo p. duodecim Septimanas p. 4d. a weeke.” | | 1624, “ Will’s Smyth P. v’sus Will’mus Bardon xivs. viid. p. salar p- ardene 7 chawder of lyme att lis. id. a chawder.” — 1631, “ Will’s Bowes de Thirsk P. v’sus Ric’u Phipps debi. sup d’dam iis. 8d. viz' iis. for five days for the P. hand lawe and 8d. as lent money.” 1631, Joh’es Sharpe P. v’sus Joh’em Jackson on d’dm xs. for his hand lawe for making x. qtrs. of bark.” Rents in comparison with the price of corn, are very low. 1632, “vs. rent for an acre of land.” 16380, “vs. viiid. rent of an acre and a half of land in Underwood.” 1623, “xxiis. for the rent of a house and 4s. for the rent of a shopp.” 1627, “vis. viiid. for half a year’s rent of a house on St. James’ Greene.” We give a few more miscellaneous curiosities; some of them will have a strange sound to modern ears. “12 May, 1624, Joh’es flint P. v’sus Joh’em Wardell detenu. un. sword w hingers and Scawbert ad valor vs.” 1624, * Radus Nelson P. v’sus X’porum Lumley, Rogerum Ray H I 98 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. and Wm. Ray in pl. deten. un ferr instrument Ang. vocat a Stiddye, valor 39s.” 1624, “ X’poferus Tue v. X’porum flawcett detenu un. saddle w= sturrubs, ad valor vs.’ 1637, “ One cov’lett ad valor vid. 2 erilhag bears ad valor 3d. and.one feth™ codd ad val. 18d. one p* of britches ad val. 8d., 2 pewter dublers ad val. 2s. 8d., a double pewter salt ad val. 18d.” 1628, “A brasse pott 4s. 6d., a chaire 2 quishingh and 2 flackitt 3s.” “8s. fora kymlyn.” 1632, “ 18d. for a p* of spurrs.” 1633, “3s. resid. pricui un subedegaculo, vizt Ang. a pr. of Britches.” 1624, “vs. for an iron gallowbawk.” 2 Dublers of pewter 3s., kettle valor xs., a chist 2s., and a malyn cord xd.” “A cloke and saveguard valor xxs.” ‘Un saddle cloath, color yellow xis. id.” 1631, “‘a purse and a belte, a knife w" a sheathe & a p* cizors. ad valeucia xxid.” “ May 6, 1623, Joh’es fflint v. Anthonius Gamble for pts. of 3 lambs, beinge tithe; one of them being worth 4s. 8d., another 4s. 6d., and the third 3s. 8d., and his third pt. att 3s. 8d.”. 1631, “Thomas Meynell Ar. P. v’sus Johem Stephenson de Oliver Moore al’s Thorpefield iilis. iid. vizt 3s. 4d. for putting goods on the comon of Sowerby w’thout righte and also xiid. for not doing his s’rvice att P. cot® being lord of the manor of Sowerby.” 1625, “* Anthonius Gamble v. Joh’es Shott labore viz. ridyng w' his horse about his occasions for helping him to his wife and speaking at large for him, damage xxxixs. xid.” Jan 18, 1624, The lord of the manor is P. in his own court against “ Thomas Wilkinson of Carlton xs., value of the goods and chattels of Thomas Hewet a condemned felon.” | 1625, “Thoma Holmes de Rippon v. Thoma Carter de Duse- berry, for not delivng of 28 stone of greene grasse al’s wash woad the P. paying deft. ixs. 4d. in hand and the resid. att his del’vy itt.” 1627, “ Radus Tewhall v. Hen. Gamble, for disowying his oth, ad damage vs.” 1628, “ Matheus Toppin v. Edwardum Waide, p. scandolos verbis videlt. that he P. did draw forth drink att Catterick Brigg THIRSK. 99 out of another man’s buttrye w® his hatt and made himself drunk therewith ad damage xxxixs.” Other “ Verbis scandaloso,” “thou art a Bankrupt fellowe 39s. xid.” “Thou art a shepe stealer 39s.” “A cheating rogue and slave 39s.” 1626, “ X’poferus Lumley de Thirsk P. v. Roger Raper sup assumpsit for not sealing and delivering y* dedes of his howse in Ingberrygate w“ the P. bought of him, ad damage xxxixs. xid.” 1626, “ Will’s Snowdon de Leake Clir. v. Will’m Dale de ffelix- church sup assumpsit xs. for Phisick viz‘ for P. Direc’on in Phiss’ck and two Dyitt drinks.” April 22, 1631, “ Will’s Bell de Sowerby et Eliz uxem v’sus Wiliam Lowp de Sandhutton detenu un p’ce auri valor 22s. delev'd by Mr. Geo. Clough unto the deft. for bequest to the P.” February 27th, 1637, “Thomas Ward de Borooby v. Georgius Cuthbert de Thornton in le Moor xxs. w“ the deft. together with Matthew Hardy promised to pay to the P. for the finishing of the back of the pulpitt, shifting or removing of the fount att Little Otterington church or chappeil, and amending of the minr. seat there.” 1626, “ Ric’us Barnes v. Wm. Bell de Brawth xxs. upon a lay or wager, that a flish was quick & dead both upon Saturday the last past.” The above are only a few of the many curious entries made in the earlier records of the manor ; some of them may appear trifling, but they all, more or less, exhibit some of the peculiarities of the lives and manners of our ancestors. The business done at one time in these courts was very great. In the year 1623, the court was held fifteen times, and three hundred cases of debt are set down for trial, many of them were settled out of court, and not more than one half of them came before the jury. In the middle of the 18th century the authority of the court begins to decline, the cases entered for trial become fewer, and at length the business departs entirely. In 1777 there were only two debt cases, in 1778 only one, and the last on the books is in 1791. a a a ee RS © te ee eens a pty eee en th ees ces ein li es lism is tains 100 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The courts are yet regularly held in the autumn; the Steward* presides, and the borough bailiff is appointed and sworn: the rest of the business is merely formal. THE BOROUGH. Thirsk is a Borough by prescription, and probably owes its origin to the castle erected here by the princely family of Mowbray, soon after the conquest, as no mention is made of castle or borough in the Domesday survey. As soon as the lord of the fee had fixed on the site of his strong- hold, the workmen required for its erection would necessarily draw together a considerable number of others, whose business would be to supply the builders with the means of subsistence. After the castle was built, and the lord and his retainers had taken up their abode within its walls, tradesmen, artificers, and others necessary to administer to their wants or luxuries, must soon have begun to build their dwellings around that of their patron. In this manner the town grew into importance, and its inhabitants, under the authority of its lord, held markets for the supply of their neighbours. ‘¢Somner in his ‘Saxon Dictionary’ tells us, that burgh signifies © a city, fort, fortress, tower, castle, or borough, free-borough, or town corporate. And whether burgh was taken for a place of * We give the names of the Stewards as far as can be made out from the Court- rolls—none mentioned before 1626. 1626. Galfrid Adamson, Gent. 1723. Francis Barroby. — William Phillips, Ar.deput. 1726. William Martin. 1630. Thomas Procter, Ar. Sen. A blank, rolls lost. 1632, William Bransbie, Gent. 1739. Thomas Whytehead, Gent. 1633. Mark Metcalfe, Ar. 1765. William Whytehead, Gent. 1635. William Dunning. 1771. William Wailes, Gent. : 1637. Mark Metcalfe, Ar. 1797. John Wailes, Gent. 1638. First vol. of Court-rolls ends, 1801. Peter Rigg, Gent. A blank, rolls lost. 1818. William Walker, Gent. 1715, Ralph Bell, Sen. 1819. Charles Bissett Walker, Gent. 1717. Christ. Driffield. 1828. Thomas Swarbreck, Gent., present 1718. Ralph Bell. Steward. ——— TR Hae oak aed eae Bical Sect at Tae cena il A a I a Rt EA EI OS I Rr a a SR SRT OR NI as a SS I POA EE NE ITE i RT EE OE ER — — —— THIRSK. 10] strength, or a place of trade, as it was guarded with the liberties and privileges granted by princes, then altogether necessary to the advantage of buying, selling, and trading, by which tradesmen quietly and without disturbance enjoy the benefit of it. Burghs might truly be called places of safety, protection, and privilege.”* “ Which liberty granted to the burghs and burgesses, was a freedom to buy and sell freely without disturbance ; a liberty from paying toll, pontage, passage money, lestage, stallage, &c., in the mercates and fairs of these burghs, and in coming to and going from them, and for these things the burghs were called free burghs, and the inhabitants free burgesses.” + “ By understanding wherein their liberty consisted, we come to know what men the burgesses were, to wit, buyers and sellers, ordinary and common tradesmen (then called merchants), such as are commonly found in ordinary inland burghs and mercate towns, such as frequented fairs and markets.” } That Thirsk was such a burgh, or borough, and enjoyed such privileges in very early times, we have direct evidence in the charter granted by Roger de Mowbray to the priory of Newburgh in 1145; wherein he grants to the canons of that house, “ and their tenants who live in the borough, all the liberties and ease- ments which my burgesses have in the said borough, of buying and selling in the market and out of the market, without paying toll or stallage.” Thirsk was first summoned to send burgesses to parliament in the 23rd of Edward I., A.D. 1294. This privilege was at that time considered rather a burden than an advantage, as the towns which sent-them were obliged to maintain their representatives ; and the latter had to give sureties for their attendance before the king and parliament. The representatives consisted of men who were real burgesses of the place for which they were sent ; the sheriff, when he found no person of abilities or wealth sufficient for the office, often used the freedom of omitting particular boroughs in his returns. Thirsk appears to have been in this latter class, * Brady on Burghs., f. 3. + Ibid, f. 19. + Ibid. 102 : THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. until the year 1553, when it was again summoned and returned two members, which it continued to do until the passing of the Reform Act in 1832; since which time it has only returned one. The following is the most correct list of the members of par- liament for the borough, which we have been able to obtain. Our chief authorities being “Smith’s Parliaments of England,” and “The Parliamentary Representation of Yorkshire.” EDWARD VI. - 1553. Thomas Legh. Reginald Beseley. MARY, 1553. Thomas Eynes. John Gascoine. 1554. Reginald Beseley. Thomas Waterton. PHILIP AND MARY. 1555. Christopher Lascells.* Robert Rose. 1557. Christopher Lascells. Thomas Eynes.+ i ELIZABETH. 1563. Christopher Lascells.t| Thomas Amys. 1571. John Dawney.§ John Leighton. 1572. John Dawney. Edward Gates. * The family of Lascells resided at Breckenbrough Castle, and had considerable property in the neighbourhood of Thirsk. + In 1558, Thomas Eynes, burgess of Thirsk, complained to the House of Commons that, while in attendance as a member, a subpcena had been delivered to him to ap- pear in Chancery, and that if engaged in a Chancery suit he could not discharge his duty as a representative of the people. The House in great indignation, immediately ordered Sir Clement Higham and the Recorder of London to go to the Lord Chan- cellor, and require that the process should be revoked.—Par. Hist. 630. + During this parliament a law was made against conjurations, enchantments, and witchcraft, in which it was enacted—‘ that if any person or persons after the first day of June next commyng, shal use, practise, or exercise, any invocations, or con- jureations of evil, or wicked spirits, to, or for anie intent or purpose, or practise any witchcraft, enchantment, charm, or sorcery, whereby anie person shall happen to be killed or destroied ; being of the sayde offences lawfully convicted and attainted, shall suffer pains of death as a felon or felons, and shall lose the privilege and benefit of clergy and sanctuary.” This specimen of the legislative wisdom of our ancestors is enough to shew the spirit of the age. % Of the family of Dawney of Sessay, Cowick, and Beninbrough, ancestors of the Lord Viscount Downe of Newby Park. This John Dawney was high sheriff of Yorkshire in 1572. ; ™ The family of Gates were owners of considerable estates at Seamer, near Scarborough, and resided at the Hall there. They often represented the borough of Scarborough in parliament. : wa ea THIRSK. 103 | 1585. John Dawney. Robert Bowes. 1586. John Dawney. Henry Bellasis.* 1588. John Dawney. Robert Bellasis. 1592. John Dawney. Robert Bellasis. 1597. George Lister. Thomas Bellasis. 1601. Henry Bellasis. John Mallory. f JAMES I. 1603. Edward Swift, Knt. Timothy Whittingham. 1614. John Gibb. Henry Bellasis. 1620. Thomas Bellasis, Knt.§ John Bellasis, Knt.4] * The family of Bellasis, of Henknowle in the county of Durham, and of Newburgh _ Park, Yorkshire, has given many representatives to the borough of Thirsk. Few families, if any, of our British nobles can ‘© Boast a longer line, Where time through heroes and through beauties steers,” Than that of the great house of Bellasyese. They deduce a genealogy from Belasius who commanded a division of the army of William the Conqueror at the battle of Hastings. He had issue, Rowland, who married Elgiva, daughter and heiress of Ralph de Belasyse of Belasyse, and who in right of his wife assumed the name of Rowland Belasius Belasyse. His great grandson was Sir Rowland Belasyse, who attained “‘ his spurs”’ so gallantly at the battle of Lewes 48th Henry Ill. For further particulars of the pedigree of this family, see Upper Silton. + Of Newburgh Park, he was high sheriff of Yorkshire in 1603, and received the honour of knighthood from King James I.at York, on his Majesty’s journey to London, April 17th, 1603. He was created a baronet on the first institution of the order, June 29th, 1611. His wife was Ursula, daughter of Sir Thomas Fairfax of Denton. He erected his tomb in his life time in York Minster, with the effigies of himself and his lady, his son and two daughters, T Of Studley Royal, near Ripon. $ Created lord Fauconberg, and baron of Yarm, 3rd of Charles I., afterwards viscount Fauconberg of Henknowle. He zealously supported the cause of Charles I., and was present at the seige of York, and battle of Marston Moor, after the ruin of the royal cause by that signal defeat, he fled to the continent along with the earl of Newcastle and others. He died 1652. {| The hon’ble John Belasyse, second son of Thomas, first viscount Fauconberg, having distinguished himself as one of the commanders of the royalarmy, during the civil wars, was elevated to the peerage 20th Charles I. At the commencement of the _ rebellion he arrayed two regimeits of cavalry, and four regiments of infantry under the royal banner. He was appointed by the king governor of York, and on the 1lth of May, 1644, he Jay in the town of Selby with a force of two thousand men, where he was attacked by the parliamentarians under Sir Thomas Fairfax, when his force was defeated and himselftaken prisoner. He had command bothat the battles of Newbury and Naseby, as well as at the sieges of Reading and Bristol. He was promoted to the rank of lieutenant-general, and appointed commander of the forces in Lincolnshire, Notts., Debyshire, and the county of Rutland ; and immediately afterwards governor of Newark, which he defended against the English and Scottish armies, until com- manded to surrender it by the king. His majesty then appointed him to the com- 104 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 1623. Thomas Bellasis, Knt. William Sheffield, Knt.* 1628. Christopher Wandesford.t William Frankland.t 1640. William Frankland. Henry Bellasis. 1640. John Bellasis. Thomas Ingram, Knt. || 1645. Thomas Lassels.§ Wiliam Ayscough. 1653. No members returned for the borough.* * 1654. No return, the county of York sent fourteen members, the smaller boroughs none. | mand of the royal body-guard of horse. In all these arduous services the General Belasyse distinguished himself by courage and conduct; he was frequently wounded, and thrice imprisoned in the tower of London. At the restoration his lordship was made lord-lieutenant of the East Riding of the county of York, governor of Hull, general of his majesty’s forces in Africa, and governor of Tangier, also captain of the king’s guard of gentlemen pensioners. In the reign of James II., lord Belasyse was made first lord of the treasury—died in 1689. * Fourth son of Edmund lord Sheffield of Butterwick, lord president of the North. He was drowned by accident in France; and by a singular fatality two of his brothers, Edmund and Philip were drowned in crossing the river Humber at Whitgift Ferry, in the month of December, 1614; and another brother George, broke his neck ina new riding house, which his father had made out of an old consecrated chapel. + Of Kirklington, near Ripon ; he was related to Wentworth earl of Strafford, and was gained over by the court party along with that nobleman. Howell, writing to the countess of Sunderland, August 5th, 1628, says, ‘Sir Thomas Wentworth and Mr. Wandesford, are grown great courtiers lately, and come from Westminster to Whitehall, (Sir John Savill their countryman having shewn them the way with his white staff). The lord Treasurer Weston, tampered witn the one, and my lord Cottington took pains with the other to bring them about from their violence against the prerogative. I am told the first of them is promised my lord’s place at York, in case his sickness continues.’? Wandesford accompanied his ill fated patron, Wentworth, to Ireland, where his promotion was rapid: in 1633, he was appointed master of the rolls, at the same time being sworn of the privy council; of this office, he had soon after a grant for life. He was one of the lord’s justices in 1636, and 1639, and April Ist, 1640, was appointed lord deputy; but the death of his friend lord Strafford had so deep an effect upon him that he died Dec. 3rd, of the same year. + Of Thirkleby park, near Thirsk. He was created a baronet in 1660, in the life time of his father. $ This was the famous long parliament, which met Nov. 3rd, 1640, and sat during the whole period of the civil war; which saw the ruin of the monarchy, the king beheaded, and a commonwealth established. The members were finally expelled by Cromwell, April 10th, 1653. || This election was to supply the places of Bellasis and Ingram, who were disabled by the judgment of the house to sit in this parliament. — Of Osgodby, near Thirsk, he was an active magistrate, and had much influence in Thirsk during the commonwealth. ** This was the first parliament of Cromwell, commonly known as Barebone’s parliament. | ae THIRSK. 105 1656. Noreturn. This parliament offered the crown to Cromwell. 1658. Colonel Thomas Talbot.* Major General Goodricke.t CHARLES II. 1660. Charles Earl of Ancram. Barrington Bouchier.t i661. Barrington Bouchier. Thomas Harrison. 1677. Sir William Wentworth. Robert Wharton.§ 1678. Sir William Frankland, Bart. Nicholas Saunderson. 1679. The same. 1681. Sir William Frankland, Bart. Sir William Askew, Knut. JAMES II. 1685. Sir Hugh Cholmley, Bart. || Thomas Frankland.§ 1688. Thomas Frankland. Richard Staines. | WILLIAM III. 1690. Thomas Frankland. Richard Staines. 1695. Richard Staines. Sir Godfrey Copley, Bart.** 1698. Sir Godfrey Copley, Bart. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. 1700. The same. i 1701. The same. * The family of Talbot resided at Wood End, in the parish of Thornton-le-street, near Thirsk, and appears to have become extinct about the beginning of the present century. + Of Ribston Park, near Knaresborough. During the civil wars he zealously espoused the cause of the king, and was a great sufferer for his loyalty. He was taken prisoner, and first confined at Manchester, and then at London in the Tower; from whence he escaped into France, where he continued to reside until the death of Cromwell. His death took place in 1670. + Of Benninbrough, near York. He was high sheriff of Yorkshire in 1658. 3 A double return, Wentworth seated on petition. || Of Whitby: he was appointed by Charles II. governor of Tangier in Africa, where he resided many years, and had the direction of building the mole there. He died in 1688. §] Of Thirkleby: son and heir of sir William Frankland Bart. He married the youngest daughter of sir John Russell, by Frances, the lord protector Cromwell’s youngest daughter. ** Of Sprotborough, a place of which the old proverb sayeth, He who is hungry and listeth to eat, Let him come to Sprotbro’ to his meat, And for a year and for a day, His horse shall have both corn and hay, And none shall ask when he goeth away. Sir Godfrey represented this borough in eight parliaments, and died in 1709. SR me, 106 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. ANNE. 1702. The same. 1705. The same. 1709. Vice Copley deceased. Leonard Smelt, Junr. 1710. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. Ralph Bell.* 1711.. Thomas Worsley.t 1713. Ralph Bell. Thomas Worsley. GEORGE I. 1715. Ralph Bell. Thomas Frankland.f 1717. Thomas Pitt.§ 1722. Thomas Frankland. Sir William St. Quintin, Bart.|| 1724. Thomas Frankland.g 1727. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. Thomas Robinson. GEORGE II. 1728. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart.** 1730. The same.tt 1734. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. Frederick Frankland. 1741. The same. 1747. Capt. Thomas Frankland, R.N.{{ 1749. Hon’ble William Monckton. || * Of the Hall, Thirsk: he purchased the manor of Thirsk from the Earl of Derby; and represented this borough in parliament four years. + Of Hovingham. He died in 1715. There is a fine monument in Hovingham church to his memory. This election was to supply the place of Sir Thomas Frank- land, Bart., appointed Postmaster General. + Eldest son of the above Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. He succeeded to the bar- onetcy on his father’s death in 1726. 3 This election was to supply the place of Ralph Bell, appointed one of the Cus- tomers of the port of Hull. || Of Harpham in Yorkshire, He was high sheriff of the county in 1730, and died © in 1771. {1 Re-elected on his being appointed a Commissioner of. Revenue in Ireland. ** Re-elected on being appointed a Commissioner of Trade and Plantations. ++ Re-elected on being appointed a Lord of the Admiralty. +t Vice Sir Thomas Frankland deceased. Captain Frankland distinguished himself in the naval service, and captured a French ship of great value off the Havannah, af- ter an engagement of several hours. He subsequently rose to be Vice Admiral of the red squadron, and was afterwards an Admiral of the white. Died Nov. 2lst, 1784. ||| Vice Frederick Frankland, appointed a Commissioner of Revenue in Ireland. Mr. Monckton was of Fryston Hall, near Ferrybridge, and was before in this parlia- ment for Pontefract. THIRSK. 107 1754. Capt. Thomas Frankland, R.N. Roger Talbot.* GEORGE III. 1761. Vice. Admiral Thomas Frankland. Hon. Henry Grenville. 1765. James Grenville.+ 1768. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. William Frankland. 1774. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. Thomas Frankland.{ - 1780. Sir Thomas Gascoigne.§ Beilby Thompson.|| 1784. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. Sir G. Page Turner, Bart. 1784. Robert Vyner.** 1790. Sir Gregory Page Turner, Bart. Robert Vyner. 1796. Sir G. P. Turner, Bart. Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart.++ 1801. William Frankland.t{{ 1802. Sir G. P. Turner, Bart. William Frankland. 1805. Hon. Richard G. Neville.§ § I 1806. James Topping. Robert Greenhill.|| || 1807. Robert Greenhill. William Frankland. * Of Wood End, near Thirsk. He died in 1777. There is a monument to his memory in the church of Thornton-le-street. t+ Vice Hon. H. Grenville, appointed a Commissioner of Customs. + Afterwards Sir Thomas Frankland, sixth Baronet, born 1750. 3 Of Parlington, near Aberford. He died in 1810. || Of Eserick Park, near York. He died in 1799. There is a handsome monument to his memory in Escrick church. : | Of Battlesden in the county of Bedford. He represented this borough in four parliaments. He was in nowise connected with the Yorkshire ilk of that name, of Kirkleatham in Cleveland, but descended from a southern lineage. He was born Feb. 16th, 1748, and assumed the surname and arms of Page, in addition to those of his own family, upon succeeding to the fortune of his great uncle Sir Gregory Page, Bart., of Wricklemarsh, co. Kent. He married 1785, Fanny, daughter of Joseph Howell, Esq., by whom he had three sons and one daughter. Sir Gregory died in Portland Place, London, Jan. 4th, 1805. _ The Turners are descended from an opulent merchant of London, who amassed a large fortune, on which account he was created a baronet. Retiring from business he purchased extensive estates in Kent, and at Battlesden Park, Bedfordshire, the present seat of the family. _ ** Vice Frankland deceased. ++ He was high sheriff of Yorkshire in 1792, ¢¢ Vice Sir Robert Frankland resigned. 33 Vice Turner deceased. || || Of Cheequers Court, Buckinghamshire. In 1815 he assumed by sign manual the surname and arms of Russell. He was created a baronet Sept. 15th; 1831. He was brought up to the bar, and represented this borough from 1806 till the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832. He died unmarried Dec. 12th, 1836, when the baronetcy ex- pired, and his estates devolved, under his will, on his kinsman Sir Robt. Frankland, Bart., of Thirkleby, who afterwards assumed the additional surname of Russell. | | | | [ 108 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 1812. The same. 1815. Robert Frankland.* 1818. Robert Greenhill Russell. Robert Frankland. GEORGE IV. 1820. The same. 1826. The same. WILLIAM IV. 1830. The same. 1831. Robert Greenhill Russell. Sir R. Frankland, Bart. 1832. Sir Robert Frankland, Bart.t 1834. Samuel Crompton.{ 1835. The same. VICTORIA. 1837. Sir Samuel Crompton, Bart.§ 1841. John Bell.|| 1847. The same. 1851. Sir William Payne Galwey, Bart. *« Vice William Frankland resigned. The late Sir Robert Frankland Russell, Bart. He was born in 1784, and married Louisa Anne, third daughter of the late Right Hon’ble and Right Rev. Lord George Murray, Bishop of St. David’s. He succeeded to the baronetcy on the death of his father in 1831. He was high sheriff of York- shire in 1838, and died in March, 1849, | + This was the first parliament after the passing of the Reform Bill, by which Thirsk lost one of its representatives. $ Vice Frankland resigned. $ Of Wood End, near Thirsk. He was son of Samuel Crompton, Esq., Mayor of Derby in 1782 and 1788, by Sarah daughter of Samuel Fox, Esq., of the same town. He represented East Retford in the house of Commons from 1818 till 1826, the year before that borough was disfranchised ; and then was elected member for Derby. In 1834 he was elected for Thirsk, which he continued to represent until 1841, when he retired from parliament. In politics he was a moderate reformer: he voted for the original motion of reform in parliament, and afterwards supported Lord Melbourne’s ministry ; but he was opposed to voting by ballot, and the shortening of parliaments. In 1836 he was advanced to a baronetcy, which, on his dying without male issue, be- came extinct. He died at Wood End Dec. 27th, 1849, aged 63 years. || Of the Hall, Thirsk. He was great grandson of Ralph Bell, who represented the borough in the last parliament of queen Anne and the first of George I. He was bora August 11th, 1809, and died March 5th, 1851. He was a moderate liberal and supporter of Lord Melbourne’s and Lord John Russell’s cabinets. {| Vice Bell deceased. Sir William P. Galwey, Bart., the present member for the borough, is a magistrate and deputy lieutenant for the North-riding of Yorkshire, and late a major in the &8&th regiment. He was born in 1800, and married in 1847, the third daughter of the late Sir Robert Frankland Russell, Bart., of Thirkleby THIRSK. 109 1852. The same. 1857. The same. What the number of electors or free burgesses was when the town was summoned to return representatives in 1553, we know not. In 1623 the number of Free Burgesses inscribed on the court-rolls of the manor, is 19: we give their names below.* In the year 1626 they are 34, and in 1637 only 22. Amongst them are sometimes entered the names of persons living in Bagby and other places, and the numbers are continually varying, never above two years alike. Previous to the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, the right of electing members of parliament was vested in the occupiers of fifty-two burgage houses situate in Old Thirsk, of which number forty-nine belonged to the Franklands of Thirkleby, who had thus the power of returning both representa- tives. Since 1832 the 10/. householders have enjoyed the privilege of voting, and the boundaries of the borough were greatly enlarged so as to include the whole town of Thirsk, and the townships or villages of Sowerby, Carlton Miniott, Sand Hutton, South Kil- vington, and Bagby: extending over an area of 8750 acres. By Lord John Russell’s abortive Reform Bill it was proposed to attach the town of Easingwold to the borough of Thirsk. The returning officer is the Borough Bailiff, who is chosen by the inhabitants, and sworn in at the Court Leet of the lord of the Manor. The number on the register entitled to vote at the first sian after the enfranchisement of the town, was 254; in 1835, 262; 1837, 283; on the election of John Bell, Esq., in 1841, it was i: is in 1847, 331; in 1851, it had decreased to 255. In 1857 there were 357 names on the register; shewing an increase of 103 Park. He is a staunch conservative, and voted against Mr. Locke King’s motion in 1857, and against the Maynooth Grant: he supported Mr. Cobden’s resolution on the China question, which brought on the general election in March, 1857. * Timo. Whittingham, Mil. Tho. Beckwith, Gent. Joh’es Wright, Gent. Lance. Belte, Gent. Hered Milo Danbye. Will’s Carter. Joh’es Carter. Bartho. Ander- son. Ric’us Phipps. Will’s Bell. Joh’es Hanforth. X’porus Lumley. Ric’us Bell. Radus Bell. Roy Raper. Tho. Barton. Radus Hunton. Radus Almond. Vy. Bickers. | | ‘, | | | | / | 110 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. electors in twenty-four years; and proving that, though the con- stituency be small, Thirsk is not among the number of decaying boroughs. During the same time, from different causes, property has greatly increased in value, and many new houses have been ~ built, especially in Sowerby. SURVEY OF THE TOWN. The town of Thirsk consists of two squares, the Market Place, and St. James’ Green and about half a dozen principal streets. The entrance from the Railway Station, and the towns of Ripon and Boroughbridge is on the west, through a crooked street called Castlegate, so named from its passing along the southern end of the site of the castle. The principal remnant of this fortress is the moat, which has evidently been both wide and deep, and the earth _ taken out of it appears to have been thrown inwards, and yet forms a ridge in what has been the outer court, or baily. The space inclosed by this moat is somewhat of a square form, and is said to contain four acres of ground: the eastern side is occupied by the houses of the town; the northern appears to have extended towards the stables of the hall, and partly under the town, the west side and part of the south are yet open and can be easily traced. The north eastern portion of this area was occupied by the keep and principal buildings of the castle, which were also sur- rounded by a moat deeper and wider than the outer one, part of which contained water within the memory of persons yet alive. This inner part is much higher than the outer one, shewing that the soil of this moat had also been thrown inwards, and formed a kind of mount on which the castle stood. This eminence is now occupied by gardens, the soil of which bears no indication of mix- ture with the lime and rubbish of a ruined stone building; and what is stranger still no stones, or relics of any kind have been dug up, as would certainly have been the case, had a building of masonry stood on the spot. In digging a drain some years ago \ fn SS SS lS TS A A Sa SE + RS SS en a ee i ne | | | THIRSK. 111 across that part of the castle garth now in grass, nothing remark- able was found excepting a brooch or toga pin. We may therefore suppose, without any material circumstances opposing our con- jecture, that the castle of Thirsk was built of timber, and that the oak trees of the Vale of Mowbray supplied the massive beams. From the situation it could never be intended for a place of per- manent defence, or to resist a siege, as the country around was level up to the works of the castle, and was quite unlike the places chosen by the Norman barons on which to erect their principal strongholds, which when inland, were generally placed at the turning points of rivers and streams, where bent from their course by an insulated rock or sudden rise of the land. Knaresbrough and Richmond castles are examples. The large house of the Percies at Leckonfield, as we learn from old Leland, was chiefly of timber. The manor house at Topcliffe belonging to the same family was _ probably of the same material. In making a drain along Kirkgate, for the sewerage of the town, in 1856, the moat of the castle was dug into, and found to have been originally sixteen feet deep, now entirely filled with fine black . mould ; two pieces of oak timber, perfectly sound and black as jet, were found along with a small horse shoe, of a peculiar make, and quite free from rust. The rows of new and elegant houses on the right of this street are in the township of Sowerby, and have been erected by “ The Thirsk Building Society,” within the last fifteen years. They are a great improvement to this part of the town, and appear to com- bine comfort and convenience. The rural police station is in this street, as is also the Mechanics’ Institute, a large and elegant brick building, the property of Sir William Payne Galwey, Bart., M.P. At the turn of the corner are the public rooms and savings’ bank, located in a handsome building of white brick; near which is the Primitive Methodist chapel. The school in the Castle Garth, was formerly under the care of the Rev. Daniel Addison, incumbent of Thirsk, and was then an academy of considerable note, where the “ Society for the educa- tion of clergymen’s orphan children” were accustomed to place all : | RS A Ae nn pg SS SY Sn . — ree epee ere Ce ane si inl Nei es angola tie ala ipa tr? THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. their boys, so that at times as many as one hundred and fifty young gentlemen from different parts of the country were instructed here. Part of the building is now a charity school for the educa- tion of girls. The short street leading from the end of Castlegate into the market place bears the name of Westgate.* The market place is a spacious square, level, and well adapted for the purpose. The houses and shops around are tolerably well built, yet none of them have any great pretensions to elegance; a few have the air of antiquity, yet none are probably older than the age of Elizabeth. On the northern side yet remains a cluster of old buildings, which Hutton, in 1818, described as “rubbish sur- rounded by beauty:” they form an unsightly object and mar the symmetry of the square. A long range of ruinous looking butchers’ shambles,t} deformed the centre of the area until the month of August, 1857, when they were removed by the lord of the manor at the request of a number of the inhabitants ; he also paved at his own cost all the southern side of the square. ! The market cross is a ruined, time-worn, broken shaft, standing on an ascent of four dilapidated steps.t In 1821, “the shaft was nine feet in height, and bore on the cornice of its capital, four dials facing the four cardinal points of the horizon.” § * The term gate is not used in its modern sense, but derived from the old Scandi- navian “‘ gata,”’ a street, way, or road. + The old oak from the shambles was formed into three antique chairs, by Mr, Coulson, a noted turner of this town; they are in possession of Mr. Bell, Capt. Turton, and Mr. T. Swarbreck. + Jan. 19th, 1629, the following entry appears in the court-rolls of the manor re- lative to the repair of the market cross. **A payne laid that Mrs. Anne Belte, fermor of the Tolles at Thirsk, shall repair the Cornehill and the Markett Crosse before the feast of the Annunce’on of the Blessed Virgin Mary next comming upon payne to forfeit xxxixs. xid.”’ ** A payne laid that the said fermor of the Tolls doe clense and make cleane the Market place at Thirske, weekly before Wednesday at night after this weeke, upon payne to forfeit for ev’y default iils. iiiid.”’ The above paynes appear to have had no effect upon Mrs. Anne Belte, (widow of Launcelot Belte, gent, a free burgess of the town), for April 5th, 1630, we find the following amerciament recorded against her. ** The juratores p’sent Anna Belt, Vid. quia non Reparu granu monti. Anglice the Cornhill et Crux fori, and she is amercd, xxxixs. xid.”’ A note adds, ‘‘ Disss. to stay till Midsom, uext and then to pass if it be not then done.” § Jefferson’s Thirsk, p. 39, THIPSK. | 113 The site of the Tollbooth is yet marked by the remains of its floor. The courts for the manor of Thirsk were formerly held within it, and the public business of the town generally transacted there. It was burned down by accident or design, in 1834, along with the establishment of a travelling mountebank or showman; and never afterwards rebuilt. A circle in the pavement near the cross, yet marks the place where the bull baitings were held: the ring was taken up about twenty years ago; before its removal a custom prevailed amongst the youtlis of the town, when any of them had completed his term of apprenticeship, to meet together at midnight, and drink to each other with the arm holding the drinking glass through the ring. The bull baitings have been so long discontinued as to be only matter of tradition, the oldest inhabitant having no recollection of such an event. At no remote period, however, no butcher was allowed to kill a bull and expose his flesh for sale in the market without having first baited him.* On the south side of the Market Place are the “ Golden Fleece” and “ The Three Tuns” hotels, good and comfortable places for rest and refection, but not quite so busy as formerly when the “ Royal Mail,” “Highflyer,” “Wellington,” and “Expedition” coaches rat- tled over the pavements before their doors. The “Three Tuns” was originally built as a “dowager house” for the family of Bell. At the south-east corner of the market place is the Post Office, Mr. Richard Barley postmaster. * The following order occurs in the court-rolls in 1740. “Item. Thatif any person do kill a bull and expose the fiesh thereof for sale in the market, without first baiting such bull in the market place, shall forfeit for every time offending 6s. 8d.’’ The above order is repeated in 1747, and again in 1704 for the last time. Many parties were fined for not obeying. In 1739, Thomas Sampson of North Kilvington, was presented by the jury ‘‘ for exposing to sale and selling bull’s flesh in this market, not having first baited, 3s. 4d.’ ‘‘ John Williamson of Sutton, for the like, 3s. 4d.” ** Christopher Bell of Bauk, for the like, 3s. 4d.”’ ‘In 1741, William Tweedy, for the like, 3s.4d. Henry Ridsdale of Sowerby, for the like, 3s. 4d. Jonas Wass of the same place, 3s. 4d., and Henry Manfield of Islebeck, for the like, 3s. 4d.” *‘In 1744, Henry Ridsdale, Michael Gilbert, William Tweedy, Tindall Crossley, and George Stephenson, are ‘in mercy,’ 3s. 4d. each for the like offence.”’ + The staff of this office consists of a postmaster and clerk, (which last delivers the letters in the town), three receiving houses, one at Sowerby, one at Topcliffe, and I 114 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Finkle Street* leads from the market place to the bridge across the river Codbeck. On the right hand almost close to the river is a large house, (now divided into two tenements) in which formerly resided the widow of the Rev. John Knowsley, M.A., and her three daughters, with whom lodged for awhile the eccentric Mrs. Margaret Wharton, alias Peg Pennyworth.+ On the opposite side of the street is the office of the Registrar of the Thirsk district, and the large new Chapel and School of the Independents. A peep over the battlements of the bridge reveals the wharf and mooring rings of the intended Thirsk navigation. another at Maunby; and six rural messengers respectively—for Kirby Knowle— Borrowby—Newby Wiske—Pickhill—Dishforth and Dalton. The number received for the week ending December 2Ist, 1857, was letters 4293; newspapers, stamp attached, 307—stamp impressed, 1005, total 5605. * This name, derived by Hargrove, Hist. of Knaresborough, from Vincle, Danish, an angle or corner, is common to many places in the North of England, and occurs in the following Yorkshire towns, Ripon, Knaresborough, Richmond, Bedale, Selby, Hull, and Wortley, near Sheffield. + Hutton in his Trip to Coatham, gives some amusing anecdotes of this singular lady. She is yet remembered by persons in the neighbourhood of Thirsk, and the Rev, Francis Henson, rector of Kilvington, is possessed of a massive gold ring, and a gold headed cane which formerly belonged to her. She is said to have possessed a fortune of 200,0007., and she made her nephew a present of 100,000/. Though she resided in York, she visited Scarborough in the season, and from frequently sending fora pennyworth of strawberries, and a pennyworth of cream, she obtained the name of Peg Pennyworth, which never forsook her. Her charities were boundless, but always private, nothing hurt her so much as to have them divulged. If any did proclaim them she withdrew her benevolence. The celebrated Foote drew her character in a farce called *“‘ Peg Pennyworth.” When informed of this circumstance she exclaimed with a smile, “ 1 will see it acted as I live.”? She did, and declared with joy that they had done her justice. A gentleman took her in his arms before the whole audience, and said, “‘ This is the greatest fortune in Yorkshire,”’ which delighted her more. Her introduction to Thirsk is thus related by the same author. ‘* A clergyman’s wife having kept up a visiting connexion in York, the clergyman dying, and leaving the lady in affluence, she retired to Thirsk with her daughters, and solicited Peg to pay her a visit. Peg consented, took her carriage and servants. After some time the lady began to think the visit rather protracted, particularly as she had a family of her own to provide for; but Peg thought that treating the young ladies with a frequent airing in the carriage was an ample recompense. A growing discontent cannot be smothered; the lady could neither find a remedy nor complain. At length she ventured to hint to Mr. Wharton that the pressure was great. ‘‘ Be silent, madam,” said he, *‘let my aunt have her own way. I will pay you 200/. a year during her life and 100/. during your own should you survive her.’’ Peg ended her days with this lady, and I believe the 100/ a year is paid to this day. Report says she died at the age of 103, and was buried at Skelton. In the pedigree of the Whartons, given in Graves’ Cleveland, p. 359., she is said to have been “ bapt. at Low Layton, Co. Essex, 24th April, 1697, died 1788.” RS THIRSK. 115 The sewage of the town here discharges itself into the river by a drain two feet six inches in diameter, which was cut in the autumn of 1856, at a cost of 260/.; it passes along Finkle Street, across the Market Place, and up Kirkgate, nearly to the church; the greatest depth is fourteen and a half feet. During the exca- vation horns of cows, and bones of animals were dug up, the moat of the castle was cut through in Kirkgate, when the pieces of timber and horse shoe already mentioned were found, but nothing else of importance. Ingramgate* is properly speaking only a continuation of Finkle Street. The large white house on the left hand, almost close to the river is Ingram House, the property of Lady Frankland Russell, of Thirkleby. For many years it was the favourite residence of Lady Johnston of Hackness, near Scarborough, who died here more than eighty years of age. It was then leased to the present occupier Major Sanders, K.G.S. and K.F. He is the represent- ative of the Sanderses of Sanderstead and East Grinstead, in direct descent from Sir Roger de Sanderstead. The gallant Major has seen much service in the south of Spain; he was many years in the Austrian service, and held a distinguished military appointment about the court of Vienna. He married Jane, sister and coheiress of the late John Bell, Esq., M.P., and aunt of Frederick Bell, Esq. of the hall. In this house amongst other paintings, is a fine cabinet picture by Rubens, of the daughter of Herodias with the head of John the Baptist in a charger. This picture is from the collection of the late king of Bavaria. “'Tancred wounded,” “ The Bubble Blowers” by Robert Heck of Stuttgart. An old painting of the Nativity from the church of Santa Croce at Florence, very curious. Of the portraits, there are three by Jamison, the pupil, and known as the Scotch Vandyke. One of Charles I., and two family portraits of Chief Justice Hobert of the Common Pleas, and Henry Howard Sanders, Clerk of the Star Chamber. Portrait of the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, by “ Knobler.” * In 1624, the name of this street was Ingberryzgate. 116 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. A curious portrait of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, after- wards Emperor of Germany during the thirty years war. It was painted when he was only six weeks old, bearing date and stating the fact ; he is represented in swaddling clothes, lying on a pillow with a jewelled cross and chain. Portrait of Madam’lle de Montpensier, by Mignard. Portrait of Lewis XV., by Van Loe, with many others, historical and family. There are also some Sheep painted by Bartholomew Smith, the self-taught artist, a native and resident of Thirsk. It is a picture of considerable merit, and might pass for an early pro- duction of Verbeckhoven. In the library is a curious old oak cabinet of the time of Edw. II. At the end of this street the roads from York, Helmsley and Yarm form a junction, the direct road leads to Helmsley. At the left hand corner is situate the Workhouse for the Thirsk Union, a large brick building. The road to York turns to the right along Barbeck,* where the Society of Friends has a burial ground. At the end of this street stood a small chapel, dedicated to St. Giles, at what time, or by whom founded we know not. We find it first mentioned in a licence granted by William, Archbishop of York, June 3rd, 138435, to the inhabitants of Bagby to bury their dead in their own chapel yard, and have divine service performed in their own chapel ; the chaplain was also to say mass two days in the week (on Monday and Friday) “in the chapel of St. Giles, in Brynkellhow gate in the town of Thirsk.” From which we might infer that the in- habitant of Bagby had previously been accustomed to worship in this chapel. The next time we find it mentioned is by John Foxe in his “ Actes and Monuments,” when relating the troubles of “the poor sely hermit” Parkinson, who “was a hermit or peni- tentiary at Thirsk, and kept the chapel of St. Giles at the end of the town of Thirsk.” This was about the year 1464, and we find no further mention of the chapel: probably it was swept away at the reformation. A small enclosure on the right of the road * From “ beck,’ a brook, which here crosses the road, and ‘‘ bar,”’ a gate or fence. THIRSK. 117 leading to York, yet bears the name of “the Chapel Hill close,” and this alone seems to indicate the place where it stood, as not a fragment of the building or a trace of the foundation remains. The Long Street, formerly called Micklegate,* leads northward from the ends of Barbeck and Ingramgate on the road to Yarm; this is the largest street in the town, being five hundred yards in length and of ample breadth. Here are situate the British and Foreign School and the Gas Works. Turning past the old Poorhonse, we reach St. James’ Green, a wide, and open square, little inferior to the market place in size. Here the cattle fairs are held. On the eastern side stands the Wesleyan Chapel. Around this area are some of the oldest houses in the town, though probably none of them are three hundred years old. This green derives its name from a chapel formerly standing here, dedicated to St. James. The exact time of the foundation of this chapel does not appear to be known. It existed | in 1145, when it was given by Roger de Mowbray to the canons of Newburgh Priory. We do not find it mentioned in the valor of Pope Nicholas, A.D. 1292. In the Liber Regis, under the head “ Thirsk Nova.” it is thus noticed. “In this parish is the borough town of Old Thirsk, where was a chapel of St. James, but it is demolished.” ‘Thus shewing that it had been destroyed before the reformation. Not a vestige of it now remains above ground, nor can its exact site be determined, although in digging the founda- tions of the house now occupied by Mr. Pearson, human bones were found: bones have also been found near the elm tree, from which we may infer that there was a burial ground attached to the chapel. Two paved causeways led to it from different direc- tions: they were torn up many years ago. On this green stands an elm tree, the youthful successor of a * Besides other evidence contained in legal documents, the following extract from the court-rolls of the manor is decisive as to the ancient name of this street. ‘* 1624. That Richard Wilson, or the occupier of his house on St. Jameses Greene, shall make | up the fence at the little Lone end toward St. James’ grene adjoy’nge to his howse side, or make a stile, easful and passageable for people to goe over, and that Mr. Bell and Matthew Toppin shall doe the like to the other end towards Micklegate, betwixt and Candlemas next upon paine of ev’ye one of them making default, xs.’’ \ . ~ a Or 118 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. gigantic plant of the same species, which stood here for many ages, and under which the elections for the borough were formerly held: so long “that the memory of man is not to the contrary.” It had become hollow and half dead through extreme old age, when on the 5th of November, 1818, whilst the youths of the town were celebrating the anniversary of the discovery of Gun- powder Plot, the idea entered their mischievous heads to make a bonfire of the old elm tree, and procuring tar from the yard of a ropemaker near at hand, they poured it into a hollow near the top, and setting fire to the tree thus prepared below, the whole was soon in a blaze, and notwithstanding a very rainy night, was consumed, with the exception of a few side branches which fell off during the conflagration, and were preserved by John Bell, Esq., lord of the manor, and formed into two arm chairs for his servants’ hall, each bearing the legend “ Old Elm tree, 1820.” Millgate is the name of the street leading from St. James’ green to the market place, so named from the large corn mill there situate, (part of which was formerly a tobacco manufactory) the motive power of which is chiefly derived from the waters of Cod- beck. The mill is the property of Frederick Bell, Esq., now leased to a joint stock company, called “The Thirsk Provident Corn Mill Society.” The capital consists of two thousand shares of one pound each. The holders of which have the privilege of pur- chasing their flour twopence per stone under the regular market price. The concern is in a prosperous condition and the shares at a considerable premium. The management is in the hands of a chairman, deputy chairman, treasurer, ten directors, three trustees, five arbitrators, and two auditors. Steam power was added to the mill in 1856, at a cost of 265/. 11s. 2d. A suit of bath rooms adjoining this mill, were fitted up by public subscription in August, 1857. The charges are reasonable, and they may be considered a great acquisition to the town. On a piece of ground called the Tenter Garth, from its being formerly the place where the goods of a large dying establishment were hung to dry on tenters, is a square of about fifty feet, sur- rounded by a moat twenty feet wide by six feet deep. Various cece cer i ren ren nha ma eri ane enter ne ET NE ER SR THIRSK. 119 conjectures have been hazarded as to its original use, some deeming it to have been a Danish camp, others a barbacan, or entrance to the castle, neither of them very probable, and the first quite un- likely. From its appearance we should imagine that a building of some kind had occupied the central area, and the moat was for its protection. The garth in which it is situated is nearly surrounded by water, and we suppose it was “ the Island of Tresc, which was the property of Richard the priest,” mentioned in the foundation charter of Newburgh Priory. The street leading from the market place to the church is styled Kirkgate; and along it passes the road to Northallerton ; it was formerly a busy thoroughfare, but the great steam revolution has stilled its bustle, and made it only like a common highway. The Meeting House of the Society of Friends isin this street ; the Hall, the Church, and the Parsonage are all situated at its northern extremity. In many of the streets of Thirsk, and especially in this, numbers of fruit trees, chiefly apricots, are trained along the walls of the houses, and in autumn exhibit their ripened fruit temptingly within reach without any protection.* Norby, is the name of the one-sided street which leads out of the town along the north road. The Old Parsonage is situated here, it is among the oldest houses in the town, now a cottage fast going to decay. The approach to Thirsk on this side is very pleasing, on one hand is the row of houses, on the other the river Codbeck, inter- rupted by the mill dam, forms a long canal, ‘* Though deep, yet clear; though gentle, yet not dull, Strong without rage, without o’erflowing full.” On the eastern side is a fine grove of tall willows with gets stems and broadly spreading heads, forming in summer an agree- able shade, and in winter a comfortable shelter. Amid the willows rises a plenteous spring of water, which is protected by a simple triangular cover of stone, and known by the * “Thirsk apricot jam is allowed o be the best in the world, oe) the famous Soyer and Francatelli of the Reform Club. 120 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. name of “ our Lady’s Well.” Probably the water in ancient times was used in the services of the church, to which it is immediately contiguous, and as the church was dedicated to our Lady, the spring became sacred. to the same patroness. About a mile from Thirsk, on the road to Northallerton, is the Spa, a saline mineral spring, containing iron and lime in solution, the waters are brisk, sparkling, purgative, and diuretic, resembling the Scarborough and Cheltenham waters. It was fitted up with three baths and other buildings, and about forty years ago was much frequented during the summer months, both for the purpose of bathing and drinking the waters. Mr. Wass, a medical prac- titioner of much repute in Thirsk in his day, had a very high opinion of its virtues, for the cure of scrofulous complaints and the general debility attending them. It was much used by the boys under the care of the Rev. Daniel Addison, when he kept the academy in the castle garth. At that time the spring poured an abundant stream, sufficient to fill three large baths, now it would hardly suffice to fill one of them in a week. The general opinion is that the water has been directed from its proper course by draining the land in the immediate vicinity. A piece of land extending from the Northallerton road to the Newsham road, bears the name of “ Gallows Lane,” where tradi- tion says the gallows belonging to the lord of the manor of Thirsk formerly stood. THE CHURCH. THE CHURCH stands facing the end of the street called Kirkgate, _ almost close to the Hall, and near the northern extremity of the town. It is of the Perpendicular style of architecture, which pre- vailed in England from the latter part of the fourteenth to the, early part of the sixteenth century, and may, therefore, probably be some 450 years old. A church, however, existed at Thirsk long before this was built, as well as the Chapel on St. James’ Green. , 2 eS ne i Re THIRSK. 121 The present fabric, dedicated to St. Mary, consists of a nave with north and south aisles, chancel, crypt, porch, and a square tower at the west end. The whole building is at once light, graceful, elegant, and complete; and as no modern additions or improvements have marred the beauty of the first design, it ap- pears much in the same state as when it came from the builders’ hands. _ | : The tower, probably the latest part of the building, is 80 feet high, divided into three stories, supported at the angles by but- tresses of seven stages, which die away beneath the battlement ; which last is divided into embrasures, and pierced. There are no pinnacles, which detracts sadly from the pictorial appearance of the tower, so that at a distance it appears bald and stern. The - water is conveyed from the roof by a handsome gargoyle at each corner. In the first story on the west side is a large window of three lights: above which, in a niche, is a small statue of the Virgin and Child. A loophole window lights the bell-ringers’ chamber. In the third story, on the four sides, are windows similar to those in the aisles of the church. The Porch, which has been recently renovated, is entered by an acutely pointed arch, resting on the capitals of two pillars on each side. From brackets in the wall, and the remains of arches, it is easy to see that the porch has formerly had a groined roof, and there has been a room over it, so that it must have been of greater height than at present. The entrance into this room has been from the interior of the church, by a doorway which is yet visible.* * It was formerly the custom to pay rents, settle law disputes, and transact other important business, in the porches of churches; over which was generally a room, sometimes used as a school, sometimes as a place for keeping records. The people used to come early in the morning on law matters, begging to have mass first said by the priest. Eadmer mentions persons assembling there on business. Barclay in his ‘‘ Ship of Fooles ’’ thus satirises the custom :— ** There are handled pleadings, and causes of the lawe, There are made bargaynes of divers maner thinges, Byings and sellinges scant worth a hawe, And there are for lucre contrived false leaseinges ; And while the Priest his Masse or Matins singes These fooles, which to the Church doe repayre, Are chatting and babling, as it were in a fayre.” 132 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The front of the south aisle is lighted by five windows of three lights each, with cinquefoil heads and perpendicular tracery above. The clerestory windows lighting the nave are six in number, also of three lights each, with arches more depressed than those of the About the year 1513, the room above the porch here was inhabited by one Thomas Parkinson, an anchorite of Thirsk, as appears from ‘‘ The Examination and Trouble of Thomas Parkinson, a Sely Poor Hermit, Driven to open Penance by the Papists,”’ in ‘‘ Acts and Monuments” by John Foxe, vol. viii., p. 745-6. As he was connected with this town we give an extract as shewing the manners of the time. “*In the last year of Queen Mary, Anno 1558, Thomas Parkinson of the diocese of Coventry and Lichfield, being of the sect of Anchorite, was producted before Dr. Draycot, upon the suspicion to have a wife. He was examined as followeth. Being asked what age he is now of, he saith, that he shall be at Whitsuntide next seventy years old, and was born and X’tianed in a town called Bedale in Yorkshire: and was son to one Thomas Parkinson, bailiff of Thirsk, in the same county of York; and when he was 12 years old he was set to the tailor’s craft, to one Thomas Dent of Thirsk, and served him seven or eight years as his apprentice ; and after that, before he was twenty years old he took to wife one Agnes, the daughter of Hugh Hallywell dwelling in the franchise of Ripon, being a maid of twenty-four years ; and was married to her in Thirsk by one Sir William Day, then curate there, and within two years after their marriage together, his wife was delivered of a manchild, which, ‘ although while it was in her body, did stir and live (as she and others perceived) yet after the birth, it was dead, so as it ‘could not be christened ; insomuch as the Mid- wife, and other women with her, buried the said child, as they said, in the fields— where, he (this examinate) cannot tell. And, within three weeks after, it chanced that a raven had gotten up the said child out of the ground, and torn the clothes from about the same child, and had begun to break into the said child, to feed upon; and had brought it into a tree, near unto the churchyard of Thirsk, upon a Saturday alittle before evensong time. And as the people and the priest before named saw the same child, they made means to drive away the raven and get the child from him; so as they reasoning among themselves whose child it should be, did judge that it was this examinate’s child, that was dead born and buried in the fields. And the said William Day came home to this examinate, and asked him for his child, and he showed him that the women had buried it in the fields, which the priest also exam- ined of the women, and found it to be true; and then he showed this examinate of the bringing of the child by the raven. Whereupon this examinate and his wife, were therewithal stricken with repentance to Godward, and each of them vowed themselves from thenceforth to live chaste and solitary, insomuch that this exami- nate when he was but twenty-two or twenty-three years old, professed the order of St. Francis at Richmond, five [ten ?] miles from Mid’lam, and was a hermit or peni- tentiary at Thirsk, and kept the chapel of St. Giles at the end of the town of Thirsk. And his wife also was sister of Saint Francis’s order, and had a bead woman’s room at Northallerton, by the help of Sir James Strangeways, Knight; and after he had kept the order of Saint Francis two or three years, he determined to live a more hard and strait life, and to be an Anchorite, and to seclude himself from the company of the world. And thereupon, he was first closed up in a little house in the church porch at Thirsk, where he lived by the help of good people, two years before he was profess’d; and when it was perceived that he liked that kind of life, and could en- dure the same, there was a chapel and a place provided for him in the Mount of Grace, above the Charter house, by Queen Katharine, and he was professed in that house by one Dr. Makerel, then suffragen to Cardinal Wolsey, and the suffragen had of this examinate’s friends for his profession five pounds ; and there this examinate ‘ THIRSK. 123 aisles. Between each of the windows isa staged buttress, which rises above the battlement and ends in a crocketted pinnacle. The chan- cel has two windows on each side, with depressed arches similar to those of the clerestory. The east window is of five lights under a depressed arch. ‘The windows of the north aisle and clerestory are similar to those on the south. All the windows have weather mouldings, sometimes terminating in carved ornaments. An open — battlement similar to that on the tower, runs round the nave, aisles, and chancel, which, with the many crocketted pinnacles, produces a fine effect. The roof of the nave is of a good pitch and covered with lead ; that of the chancel is much flatter, and is pro- bably not of its original height. The walls are of a fine, hard, imperishable sandstone, but some of the tracery of the windows is of limestone. There is a tradition that the church was built out of the ruins of the castle, but there appears to be no evidence to support it, as there is no indication that the stones of the present fabric have been used in any previous building. No fragments of Norman work, which would be the style of the castle, if 1t was of stone, are anywhere to be seen; which would certainly have been the case had the stones been used for a different building of a dif- ferent age. There are a few large stones forming part of the fence of the remained twelve years and more in that house, and his wife would sometime take one of his sisters, and come over and see how this examinate did, but she died six or seven years before this examinate came out of his house; and after this came doctor Lee, and he pulled this examinate out of his house, and the monks also out of the charter-house, so as this examinate was driven to go abroad to get his living of good people ; and when he could get any work to get a penny to take it; howbeit he kept his habit still.” After divers rambles and adventures our worthy hermit, at Bridge- north in Shropshire, ‘‘ by chance fell in acquaintance with one Elizabeth, which was wife to one William Romney, a tinker, that died there. They were married together in the chapel within the castle of Bridgenorth, by one Sir William Malpas. Being asked what moved him to marry, he said that he was foul troubled with vermin, and had no help of washing and tending as was requisite, nor had any house to bein; and so made his moan to this woman; and then she being troubled, as she said, with certain unruly children of hers, and could not be quiet for them, was content to go with this examinate, and to be his wife..... For this cause the papists enjoined him penance ;—to go before the cross barefoot and barelegged, in the cathedral church at Lichfield with a taper, and I cannot tell what, in his hand, etc.; and at Easter cast him into a close cabin, there to remain till he heard more of the bishop’s pleasure.” 124 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. parsonage garden, which have been used, or intended for a dif- ferent purpose. ‘They may, however, have only formed a portion of the surplus materials, when the tower was built. The interior is spacious, lofty, light, and beautiful; the arrange- ment of all the parts is so perfect that the most critical can hardly do anything but admire. The arch between the nave and chancel is semicircular, and does not harmonise well with those dividing the nave and aisles. It is of modern erection : the original division was of timber. The galleries, which formerly encumbered the church, have all been removed, the great western arch into the the basement of the tower opened out, and the interior (with the exception of pews for stalls) presents much of its original appear- ance. The nave is separated from the aisles by six arches, sup- ported by five lofty clustered columns, the east and west resting on responds in the walls: above these are the clerestory windows occupying half the surface of the wall, and throwing a flood of light among the carved woodwork of the roof. In this church were two chantries, one at the end of each aisle. A small piscina in the wall of the south aisle yet points out the place where it is supposed that of St. Ann * was situated. There are no traces of aumbrie or sedilia visible. This chantry is now converted into pews; one of them contains some fragments of ancient carved oak, bearing the lion rampant of Mowbray, and the three asses passant of Askew.t The roof of the nave is said to be of Irish oak,f{ and is highly beautiful, the intersections of the timbers are ornamented with * Of the foundation and value of these chantries little appears to be known. Tanner in his ‘“ Notitia Monastica,”’ says, ‘* They abbey of Begare in Brittany hav- ing several estates in England, particularly in Lincolnshire and Yorkshire: there was a cell of monks of that abbey fixed near Richmond, in the time of Henry III., which on the suppression of the foreign houses was first granted to the chantry of St. Ann of Thresk, then to Eaton College, then to the priory of Mount Grace, and then to Eaton college again.” + The family of Askew or Ascough held the Rectory for along time as Lessees under the Archbishop of York. \ + It is a subject worthy of note that in the Canterbury Cathedral is a monument of anterior date to the Conquest, composed of granite with an effigy of Irish oak. The latter is as hard and as perfect as the day it was fashioned, the former crumbling into dust. THIRSK. ) 125 bosses, carved in every imaginable variety of form, some of them resembling the fantastic comic and tragic masks of antiquity. The corbels supporting the hammer beams are adorned with the forms of angels. The effect of the whole is very fine, the parts harmonise well with each other, and the eye wanders delighted from boss to boss, until it has surveyed the whole and found it perfect. The roof of the Chancel is flatter, and has not the fine effect which distinguishes that of the nave. The Altar Table is of massive oak, the feet carved into a resem- blance of sea-lions. Tradition says it was brought from Byland Abbey. The Font is octagonal, and stands on a square step. The bowl is lined with lead, and large enough for baptism by immersion. The fine oak canopy above it, of the same style as the church, has . lately been shortened, and is now raised by a screw—it was form- erly elevated by means of a chain and pulley from the roof. The Organ, which is a barrel instrument, was first erected in 1813, and then stood in the western gallery, but was removed to its present position, at the west end of the north aisle, about two years ago, when the gallery was removed and the basement arch of the tower opened out. Until lately the stained-glass in the windows was but small in quantity, and scattered in different parts of the church, until the incumbency of the Rev. Samuel Coates, who had the fragments collected, and for their better preservation, inserted in the east windows of the aisles. They are of ancient workmanship, and many of them exceedingly beautiful—consisting principally of ' shields of arms: one of frequent occurrence is that of Askew, or Ascough :—sable, a fess, gules between three asses passant. No fewer than three shields bear these arms; one with a mullet for distinction, and one with a crescent.* A female figure bears on * In 1585 there were twelve shields in stained-glass in the windows of this church —four of Ascough ; four of Strangwayes, with different quarterings ; two of Orrell; and two others, one bearing a chevron inter three cocks, and the other three boars. —Glover’s Visitation. sees enenr wise sepne meme qeemnencne areas ee age GLE CO CC CNC CCE A OLE LOG LC CLL ELLA LL LE GOOLE LEC 126: - THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. her breast the royal arms of England quartered with France, the motto curiously spelt: Dieu et Monn Mrot. There are many other figures in a good state of preservation, bearing the names of St. Deonardus. Anna. Cleophus. The east window of the chancel is now richly dight with figures of Christ and the four Evangelists, in stained-glass, the work of Mr. Wailes of Newcastle, from designs by Lady Walshingham and her four sisters, daughters of Sir Robert Frankland Russell, Bart., of Thirkleby, at whose cost the work was executed in the year 1844; when the whole of the chancel was repaired and a new roof put upon it, by the liberality of Sir Robert and Lord Walsh- ingham, as a monument to the wife of the latter, and daughter of the former. | Commemorative of this restoration and design, is an inscription in gilt letters above the chancel door. “This chancel was repaired A.D. 1844 by Lord Walshingham and Sir Robert Frankland Russell, Bart., in memory of a beloved wife and daughter, who was suddenly taken from them after only three.days’ illness; and by whom, and her four sisters, the altar window was painted. All flesh is grass, and the goodliness thereof is as the flower of the field. The grass withereth, the flower fadeth, but the word of our God shall stand for ever.—IsAIAH, 40—6, 8. He that heareth my word and believeth on Him that sent me hath everlasting life—JoHn, 5—20.” The piscina yet remains in the south wall of the chancel—it has a cinquefoil head. Between, and the chancel door, are the Sedilia, consisting of three stalls of equal height, with cinquefoil heads— the wall between the seats and the floor is worked in panels. These seats were intended for the priest, the deacon, and the sub- deacon, who retired thither during some parts of the service. Beneath the chancel is a crypt, the descent to which is by fif- teen steps, the roof of which is a fine flat arch. It was sometime used as a Grammar School, now only as a Sunday School. It THIRSK. 127 probably at one time formed the dwelling of the priest, who came from Newburgh Priory to perform the weekly duties of the church. Considering the extent and beauty of the building, and the fam- ilies which have resided in the neighbourhood, there are compara- tively speaking, very few monuments in this church. According to Torre’s MSS. the following testamentary burials have taken place here :— “ Penult, Jan. 1436. Rob’t Grebe: Cl. Advocate of the court of York, made his will, proved 11 Feb. 1436, giving his soul to God Almighty, his Creator, and his body to be buried in the church of St. Mary of Threske, in the place of his ancestors.” “ Oct., A.D. 1454. John Ascough of Threske made his will, proved 18 Oct. 1454, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary, and All Saints. And his body to be buried in the parish church of Thirske.” “20 Sep. 1472. Robert Palliser of Sand Hoton made his will, proved 20 October 1472, giving his soul to God Almighty, St. Mary, and All Saints; and his body to be buried in the church of Treske.” “29 Sept. 1469. Thomas Palliser of Sand Hoton made his will, proved 21 Nov. 1469, giving his soul (ut supra) and his body to be buried in the | Church of our Lady at Therske afore the rood where his moder lyeth.” “24 May, 1629. Ralph Bransby of Thirsk made his will, proved 4 Aug. 1630, giving his soul to God Almighty, his Creator and Redeemer, and his body to be buried in the Church of Thirske near his father.” The oldest inscription in the church is near the east end of the south aisle, on a flat stone, inlaid with brass. Mic Hacet Rob’tus.... Clev’us nup’ Rector Ercl’ic. A.... eee peel Dol See 2 he Ae Or ao Yor Obi’t roi ..... i Kal, D'mb’r, A, Dm, meceextx. Cut p’petetur D’s. Amen. SN oN ca a es Aa ep SANE. 128 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Lower down, on a brass plate, are the remains of what have probably been eulogistic verses.— Gs testis X’te q’D non,..........02..-.. facet bie lapis iste Ts rr Jiro me tum p’ces sit bente spes. The following tribute to the memory of a clergyman is inscribed on a white marble slab in the nave.— M. S. Josephi Midgley, M.A., Hujus Ecclesie Pastoris ; Qui Linguarum Peritia, Lectione Sacra, Morum Integritate, Modestia Summa, Exornatus ; Gregem ad Pietatem, Unitatem, Coeterasq. Vertutes, Non minore Facundia, concitavit : Donec, Fato, Eheu ! celeri nimis sublatus, Nondum Quinquagenarius 8. Kal. Jul. 1704. Cum summo Luorum Luctu Decessit. Saram duxit, Johannis Pybus Filiam (Vir huic Municipio, olim pernoti perq. grati) Patris dignissimi Filiam haud Degenerum, Que Pia, Fida, Benigna, Deo, Marito, Pauperibus. Filii unici, septem deindé Filiarum Mater Charissima, Hic juxta Maritum Una cum tribus é Filiabus, Jam Quinquagenaria 8, Kal. Aug. 1710, Placide recubuit. THIRSK. 129 A white marble tablet in the south aisle bears the following inscription.— “* Sacred to the Memory of Ann Pybus, Spinster, a native of this parish, wherein she lived seventy-five years. She died the 13th of January, 1778, in the 83rd year of her age; sincerely lamented by all who knew her, or had heard of her. When the best heart and purest manners joined To manly sense, which dignifies the mind ; ‘When humble worth, from youth to age approved, Alike by rich and poor, admired, beloved ; When merit, such as greater heav’n ne’er gave, By heaven is sentenced to th’ oblivious grave : We mourn the loss, and grieve that such depart, With eyes o’erflowing, and with woeful heart. A loss like this, here calls your sorrow forth, Bestow your tears and emulate her worth. This monument was erected by John Pybus, Esq., of Greenhill Grove, in the county of Hertford; to rescue from speedy oblivion the memory of a beloved Aunt, universally respected for the various good qualities which adorn the woman and the christian.”’ A marble tablet against the north wall of the chancel com- memorates a foreign lady. ‘* Near this place are the remains of the Honourable Amelia Frederica Wilhelmina Melesina Sparre ; the only remaining child of Charles, Baron Sparre, by Elizabeth, Countess of Gyllemborg Sparre. He was Aid-de- Camp to Charles XII., King of Sweden, and with him in all his wars, a Major General; and twenty-five years Minister from Sweden to the Court of Great Britain. If e’er sharp sorrow from thine eye did flow, If e’er thy bosom felt another’s woe, If e’er fair beauty’s charms thine heart did prove, If e’er the offspring of thy virtuous love Bloom’d to thy wishes, to thy soul was dear, This plaintive stone does ask of thee a tear. For here alas ! too early snatch’d away, An honest faithful heart death made his prey. Obiit vii. Oct., M,Dcc,LXXVIII.”’ On a stone over the vault is inscribed.— ‘¢The Vault of the Hon. Miss Sparre. Doom’d to receive all that my soul holds dear, Give her that rest her heart refus’d her here ; - addition of her age. 40. Buried in a vault in the chancel.”’ \ 130 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. O! screen her from the pain the tender know, The train of sorrows that from passion flow, And to her envied new-born state adjoin That heavenly bliss fit for such hearts as thine.’’ The Register briefly mentions this lady’s interment, with the “1778, Oct. 11, Sparre Amelia Frederica Wilhelmina Melesina, aged In the tower are four bells, the largest weighing twenty-two ewt. Tradition says that this bell originally belonged to Fountains Abbey. It bears the name of Jesus, and the date 1410, in old English capitals. “Anno milleno quatre cento quogque den est Hee campana ‘Hesus.”’ One of the others bears the words VOCO VENI, PRECARE, and the date 1729. The two others are dated respectively 1775, and 1805. The following benefactions have been left to the poor of Thirsk. Henry Davison, by his will, dated 1629, gave 20s. per annum in lands called Oldby. William Wrightson, by his will, dated 1684, gave of land called Wetland. Richard Wrightson, by his will, dated 1725, gave 2s. per annum, to be given in white bread on Christmas day, in half an acre of land called Kill-hill. The Rey. Mr. Midgley, by his will, dated 10th Nov., 1692, gave the sum of 15s. yearly, and charged the close called Bransby Croft two rood with the payment thereof. By a deed, dated April 23rd, 1767, 10s. per annum is due to the poor from the Methodist Meeting House in Old Thirsk. Henry Croe, by his last will, dated Sept. 22nd, 1657, gave four wands of land lying in the North Ings, paying 16s. yearly. The several annual sums and rents above mentioned, are distri- buted by the Churchwardens at their discretion among the poor people of the township of Thirsk. “ Timothy Place, Esq., of London, but formerly of this town, left by his will, bearing date June 1st, 1810, one thousand pounds, | THIRSK. 131 three per cent. consolidated fund, to the poor of this parish for ever: a proportionate part of the interest and dividend of which to be laid out every week in the purchase of bread, and distributed among such poor people of Thirsk, not receiving alms from the said parish, viz :—That such persons shall be regular in attendance on divine worship in this church. The above named Timothy Place, left also by his last will, 200/. three per cent. consolidated fund, towards building the organ in this church.” The Registers commence in 1556, about eighteen years after the order was given by Thomas Cromwell, as vicegerent of Henry VIII., ordaining that “every officiating minister shall, for every church keep a book, wherein he shall register every Marriage, Christening, or Burial.” “Venerable book! Every record of human life is a solemn document. Birth, Marriage, Death! ‘This is the whole history of the sojourn upon earth, of nearly every name inscribed on these mouldy, stained, blotted pages. And after a few years what is the interest, even to their descendants, of these brief annals ? With the most of those for whom the last entry is still to be made, the question is, did they leave property? Is some legal verifica- tion of their possession of property necessary ? ” * From 1556, to 1563, the register appears to have been copied from some previous document which had become nearly illegible, as we find at the heading of the first book, (itself not very easily deciphered now), these words, among others, partly and completely obliterated,—* et fidelitur cu original collata.” Which shews that this part had been copied from some original and collated there- with. Further we find “ Ste incipit primus liber. Then “ In wnitio desunt queda que obscurata legi non poterant.” The Baptisms, Marriages, and Burials are inserted indiscri- minately, just as they occurred. Among the names on the earliest pages, we find those of Pennington, Stockdale, Dent, and Abbot. At the end of the copied part occurs the following note. “ Sve exut primus liber qu quide deficet in multis.” * Charles Knight. 182 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The real original register begins as follows :— “This booke beginneth ye fifth daye of January, in y¢ eighth yeare of ye raigne of ot Soveryne Lady Elizabeth, A.Dn. 1565.” To 1581, the baptisms, marriages, and burials are mixed, after- wards they are entered on separate pages; in which year we find the following entry :—“ Hic est tertius & ultimus liber, in quo ora fide bona, et ordine optima Scripta videntur.” | In 1640, the occupations of the deceased are first given: and the register proves that early in the civil wars of the 17th century a body of soldiers was for some time stationed at Thirsk. “1617, January 10, John, a bastard child of Elizabeth Johnson, whose father as yet is unknown, was baptized, he is supposed to be one Coleyr of York, adier.” Can any thing be more faithfully minute than the above ? | During the Commonwealth when marriages were performed be- fore the civil magistrates, we find certificates like the following :— “1654, The marriage betwixt Richard Tyndale and Ellen Atkinson, was solemnized the 28th day of November, in the yeare one thousand six hundred fifty and fower in the p’sence of Will’m Tyndale, James Coate, and Will’m Clarkson, Witness, and be- fore me, Wm. AYSCOUGHE.” The other magistrates whose names are appended to similar entries are Robert Walters, Thomas Harrison, Anthony Rounth- waite, Henry Spence, Maior, Henry Lascelles, and William Bottomley. On the first page of the second book is the following memo- randum :— « Anno Dominy, 1646. John Clarkson of Thirske, was nominated and elected by the In- habitants and contributors to the poore of the Parish of Thirske, to be the Registor of that Parish the 16th of October.” “ John Clarkson abovesaid elected to be the Parish Registor of Thirske, was afterwards sworn yé 28th Oct. | Signed, Hy. LASCELLEs.” On the last page of the same book is written, “‘ Names of persons excommunicated out of Thirske Church, Aug. 1, 1708, Elizabeth Billup, John Palliser, and Ann Wood.” THIRSK. 133 ‘In the third book the followin g memoranda occur, “The Thanksgiving Day for ye Delivery of ye French from y® Plague at Marselley & ye Protection of England y® under fearful apprehension of being infected thereby, was on Thursday, 25th of April, 1723.” “ Elizabeth Fawcett’s excommunication was pronounced in Thirsk Church, on Sunday ye 28 of April, 1723.” “ Jane Bell’s excommunication was denounced in Thirsk Church, on Sunday, ye 10th of March, 1727.” “1746, April 27th, Mary Moore’s absolution was published.” _ The registers bear witness of the fearful ravages of small pox, before the general application of inoculation and vaccination. From the 24th of August, 1784, to December 13th in the same year, thirty children died of small pox; eight were buried in one day. From May 24th to Sept. 11, 1773, ten died of small pox. An awful visitation for so small a town: “ Making much work for tears in many an English mother.” And truly thankful ought we to be that the hand of science has arrested the march of this destroyer. “Dr. Blackburn, a eeas of York, preached in Thirsk Church, 16th July, 1727.” “1770, July 25th, Bishop Drummond Confirm’d in Thirsk Church nigh 2000 people.” “ Burials, 1769, May 22, Jane Davy, a single woman, (a dwarf), Lefte 200 pound to the poor of Thirsk.” We close our extracts from the venerable chronicle with an in- stance of longevity. “ Burials, 1778, Oct. 23, John Ward, by trade a weaver, 99, natural decay.”* Of the early history of the church of Thirsk we have but scanty information. We learn from the foundation charter of Newburgh Priory, granted by Roger de Mowbray in the year 1143, that there * Catherine Harrison of Thirsk, was buried at Kirby Knowle, March 8th, 1795, age 100 years. To these instances of old age we now add another of more receat date; that of Mr. Thomas Snowden, who died at the Oak Tree Inn, Thirsk, Nov, 27, 1856, in the one hundreth year of his age; he had been nearly 89 years a tenant on the Frankland estate. ce ee ce et ne A es ent tg cP Pi A PtP I SS ED saps ns tes fet ence SAR SS PS SS SS CLS TL LE CC A RE I Sy rn 1 enn Afb aprwenpenne eee nee et 134 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. was a church and chapel then at Thirsk, the latter dedicated to St. James; and which were both given at that time to the new foundation of Newburgh.* The church probably stood where the present church stands; the chapel was situated on wees 1s NOW called St. James’ Green in Old Thirsk. William de Mowbray, grandson of the above Roger, founded “a Chappele at Thirske; and also a Chantry therein, and dedicated the same to St. Nycholas; and agreed with y® monks of New- borough, that although it was not a parochial church; yette y¢ Beles sh? be rung at y® celebration of Masse there, whensoever he or any of his Heirs should be present, and on the festival of St. Nicholas, and y® Obitts of his ancestors.” Of the situation of this chapel and chantry, we have no inform- ation, they appear to have a and left no vestige behind them. From Torre’s MSS. now in the library of the Dean and Chapter of York, we have extracted the following brief notices of the church of Thirsk. “The church of Tresche was given to the priory of Newburgh, and at the dissolution thereof was by King Henry VIII."(36 regni) passed away to the Archbishop of York and his successors in ex- change for other of his lands. So the Archbishops are proprietors of the same and have the tithes and glebe lands belonging to the church, although it hath no incumbent instituted therein, but is served by a stipendiary priest or curate.” “On 27th Jany., 1306, a composition was made between the inhabitants of the towns of Tresch, Carlton and Hoton, on the one part, and the inhabitants of the town of Sourby on the other part, touching the repairs of the church of Tresche, whereby the said inhabitants of Tresche, Carlton, and Hoton, were to pay two parts, + Rex omnibus salutem, Sciatis me concessisse et carta mea presenti confirmisse Abbetiz Beate Marie de Novo Burgi et Prior et Canonicis ibidem Deo servientibus in perpetuam Eleemosynam, donationem illam quam Rogerus de Molbray eis fecit in ecclesus et terris et ceteris possessionibus ipsum videlicet locum in quo locum Abbatia fundata est; ecelesiam de Hod; ecclesiam de Cukwald cum capellis et omnibus pertinantibus suis: ecclesiam de Tresc cum Capellis et mansione et ceteris pertinantibus, &c.”’ Pat. Anno. 18 Ed. 3.—Dodsworth’s Collectanea, Vol. 21, fol. 65. | A a a A et ee sek iret pss nets inane — A ne ee ee NO ee OE - - — — a. ~ - THIRSK. 135 and the inhabitants of Sourby one part of the sum imposed.” “There were two chantries of St. Ann founded in the parish Church of Threske.” The living is a perpetual curacy in the Archdeaconry of Cleve- land, Deanery of Bulmer, and Diocese of York. The Archbishop of York is the patron. In the taxation of Pope Nicholas, about the year 1292, it was valued at 36/. 13s. 4d. In the Nova Tax, only twenty-six years afterwards, it had fallen to 12/., which shews that this parish had suffered severely from the incursions of the Scots at that period. In the “ Valor Ecclesiasticus, A.D. 1535,” 1¢ 1s called Libera Capella, and its rights are stated to be a mansion with appurte- nances in Bagby, rents and farms in Thirsk, and the rent of a garden in Bagby, value 5/. 16s. 4d. In 1707, the curacy was valued at 40/.; and in 1818, at 98/. per annum. In 1811, it was augmented with 1200/., and in 1824, with 400/., both from the parliamentary grant by lot ; and in 1834, with 400/. from the same grant to meet a benefaction of a stipend of 30/. per annum from Edward Harcourt, Lord Archbishop of York, as a perpetual augmentation. An additional burial ground was consecrated Oct. 2nd., 1803. The following is the most correct list we have been able to ob- tain of the incumbents of Thirsk. Before the reformation, the duty was done by monks from Newburgh, who probably took it in turns, and no one was regularly appointed. The two first names are from Torre’s MSS., the others from the parish register. — Joh. Esyngton, Cap. 1746. Anthony Routh. 17 May, 1471, Will. Assynby, Cap. 1762. Daniel Addison. —_— 1783. Thomas Barker. 1600. Thomas Todd, 1798. Jonathan Holmes. 1632. T. Gilleys. 1829. Robert Lascelles, M.A. —— Matthew Hill, M.A.* 1833. Samuel Coates, M.A. 1704. Joseph Midgeley. 1843. William Lindley, present Incumbt. 1746. William Williamson. * Jn 1662, Matthew Hill was ejected from his living. He was of Magdalen College, Cambridge, a man of considerable talents and learning. After the loss of his curacy at Thirsk, he went to London, and lost all his possessions by fire, upon which he subscribed a letier thus, ‘‘ Your brother, sine re, sine spe, tantum non sine se,’ M.H. ee, eee 136 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The following valuation of the Rectory of Thirsk, including the Chapelries of Sowerby, Carlton Miniott, and Sand Hutton, is from the account of Thomas Whithouse, collector, for one year, 31st Henry VIII. Rectory of Thirsk. The sum of 6/. for the rent of one messuage in Thirsk, with the tithes of grain in Thirsk aforesaid, to be paid yearly at the terms of St. Martin and St. Mark, equally, besides 2s. charged among temporal things. 11/. 6s. 8d. for the rent of Tithes of grain of the vill. of Sowerby, of the vill. of Sand Hutton, and all manner of Tithes of Woodhall field, let to Roger Lassels, Knt., by Indre, dated 8th Henry VIIL., for 41 years. 18s. 4d. for the rent of a close in Thorp or Petty Thorp, called - the Prior Close, with all, and all manner of Tithes of Grain, Hay, Wool, Lambs, Geese, and Pigs in Thorp or Petty Thorp. 4/. for the rent of the Tithes of Carlton Mynyott, and 12/. 15s. for the rent of all personal Tithes, with one messuage, two closes and four oxgates (in Thirsk), with all, and all manner of Tythes of Wool, Lamb, and Hemp, together with all the particular Tythes let before to other persons—except all the Tythes of wool and lambs, and other small tithes of the vills. of Sowerby, Sandhutton, and Carlton, assigned from ancient times for the maintenance of two Chaplains to perform divine service there. After the dissolution of the monasteries the Rectory of Thirsk came into the hands of the King, Henry VIII., and was granted by him in the year 1545, to Robert, Archbishop of York, in ex- change for the manors of Thirsk and other places. The Rectory was next conveyed to John Smith of St. Sepulchre’s, London, Tailor, by the trustees appointed for the sale of Arch- bishop’s and Bishop’s lands, by deed indented and inrolled in Chancery, dated 20th Dec. 1549. By deed dated 14th Jan., 1550, the said John Smith, for a no- minal consideration, conveyed to Sir John Burgoyne, Knt. and Bart., Sir Roger Burgoyne, Knt., and John Burgoyne the younger Esq., (son of Sir John), “The said Rectory of Thirsk, with the orchard, little croft, foldstead, &c., containing about one acre, then THIRSK. 137 in the occupation of William Ayscough, Esq.; and the Glebe lands belonging thereto, amounting to thirty-five acres and one rood.” * By a Deed Poll of the same date, the said Burgoynes declared that the said Rectory, &c., was conveyed to them by the said John Smith, by the direction of William Ayscough, Esq., of Osgodly Grange, Co. York, in trust for him and his heirs. Next appears a Lease from Tobias, Archbishop of York, to William Askwith, dated 12th Oct., 1619, for three lives, granted in consideration of the surrender of a former Lease for twenty-one years, dated the 1st Dec., 1617. 30th March, 1669, a Lease from Richard, Archbishop of York, to William Askwith, Kt. 21st April, 1681, a Lease from the same to the same. _ 16th Aug., 1699, Lease from John, Archbishop of York, to Dame Frances Ayscough and eight others. By Indenture, dated 26th March, 1715, a moiety of the said Rectory was assigned by Sir Walter Hawksworth, Bart., and Dame Judith his wife, and Sir Walter Calverley, Bart., to Matthew Butterwick of Thirsk, yeoman : and the recitals of this deed state that the said Sir William Calverley, by virtue of a decree in Chancery, and by certain Indentures of Lease and Release of 5th and 6th August, 1712, was seized of the reversion of the said Rectory, after the death or marriage of the said Dame Frances Ayscough: And that the said Sir W. Calverley, by Deed Poll, dated 23rd Sept., 1712, declared that one moiety of the said Rectory was in Trust for, and belonged to the said Sir Wiliam Hawksworth, and the other moiety belonged to Francis Fawkes, Esq. The other moiety of the Rectory was conveyed to Matthew Butterwick, by the said Francis Fawkes, Esq., and Margaret his wife, and Sir Walter Calverley, Bart., by Indenture of May 10, 1715. The late Mattew Butterwick, (grandson of the above and son of Simon Butterwick), died 17th Jan., 1829, and the Rectory, &c., is now vested in Henry Wickham Wickham, Esq., M.P., and Thomas Swarbreck, Esq., the Trustees under his will. * In the apportionment of the Tithes of Thirsk, the appropriate Glebe Lands were _estimated at forty acres, by prescription free from tithes great and small. | | 138 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The Tithes of Thirsk, of which H. W. Wickham, and Thomas — Swarbreck, Esqrs., are the Lessees under the Archbishop of York, the appropriator were valued in 1805, at 745/. 1s. 6d. in money. The Award commuting the Tithes of the district, comprising the whole of the township of Thirsk, except the hamlet of Thorp- field in the parish of Thirsk, was made on the 21st day of July, 1842, by John Job Rawlinson, Barrister-at-Law. The estimated quantity in statute measure of all the land subject to the payment of tithe, is therein given at 3850a. 37. Tp., viz :— T: Dp. 0 29 Arable land. 1053 3 0 Meadow or pasture. 2 2 Woodland and common, 2 34 Brick yards and gravel pits. 12 0 O The streets of the town. The rent charge apportioned in lieu of the Tithes, was 7717. — A Supplemental Award was made the 14th Nov., 1843, wherein it is stated that an omission was made in the said Award of lands subject to Tithes in kind to the Rectory of Kirby Knowle. The quantity of land so subject, is estimated at da. 2r. 39p., and the amount of Rent Charge apportioned thereon 2/. 9s. 2d. The Society of Friends, next to the Established Church, are the oldest religious body in Thirsk. Their meeting house is situated in Kirkgate, and was built about the year 1790, to accommodate upwards of two hundred individuals ; district, (or monthly meet- ings) being held at Thirsk at that time. In 1830, the station was annexed to York Monthly Meeting ; and there are now only about thirty members resident in the town. At the time of the rise of the Society, it appears that Friends were very numerous in the district. In 1651, George Fox held a Meeting at Borrowby, and a large number of his audience (amongst the number the clergyman of the parish), gave in their adhesion to the doctrines which he promulgated. In 1677, we find him again attending a large meeting, where the Friends from Cleveland assembled, together with those of the surrounding district. Four- teen Monthly Meetings were established in this county in 1669, Thirsk being the head quarters of one of them. Soon after this ) ie app a ge ae a a Se ED , (ine , P THIRSK. 139 an extensive emigration to idk took place, under the auspices of William Penn; and a large proportion of those who were engaged in agriculture flocked to him from this district, to avoid the sufferings to which they were subjected for nonatten- dance at church, and the harrassing prosecutions instituted against them for tithes and other ecclesiastical demands, which they could not conscientiously pay. In defence of their testimony in these matters, some had incurred the loss of all their property and long incarceration in prison. One of the earliest on record is James Dunning of Thimbleby, who died in 1661, in York Castle, for refusing to pay tithes. The Friends have two burial grounds, one in Barbeck, and the other behind the meeting house in Kirkgate, both nearly filled with graves. In connection with the longevity of Friends, we may mention that during the year 1856, Mr. W. Baker was in- terred here in his 74th year; and that his father John Baker, who married at the age of seventy, and had six children, attained eighty-six years. His grandfather Thomas Baker, who resided on a farm at Nugate foot, in Bilsdale, and travelled extensively as a preacher, was one of the earliest Friends of the district, and was the first person who introduced potatoes into Yorkshire and Durham, about the year 1650. In the “ Illustrated London News” in 1854, there was a notice of a sermon preached by a son of this Thomas Baker, to the Friends of Norton Meeting, in which he expressed a fear that some of his hearers were like the potatoes of the year, “fair at the outside but rotten at the heart ;” and the writer inferred from this that the potatoe disease had prevailed at the time. The Wesleyan Methodist Chapel is situated on St. James’ Green, in Old Thirsk ; it is a large brick building capable of accommo- dating more than one thousand hearers. There is a burial ground, a house for the minister,-and a school room attached. The intro- duction of Methodism into Thirsk, was by John Wesley himself, who first visited the town Feb. 28th, 1747; and regularly after- wards in his tours through the country until his death. Between April, 1764, and April 29th, 1766, the first Methodist Chapel was | | | | 140 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. built, for in his Journal, under the latter date, he says, “I preached at noon in the new house at Thirsk, almost equal to that at Yarm, and why not quite, seeing they had the model before their eyes, and had nothing to do but copy after it? Is it not an amazing weakness, that when they have the most beautiful pattern before them, all builders will affect to mend something ? So the je ne scat quot is lost, and the second building scarcely ever equals the first.”* _ The first chapel was of an octagonal shape, and was pulled down in 1816, when the present large and elegant building was erected. The late Mr. Robert Peat, many years postmaster of Thirsk, who died June 21st, 1856, left by his will 100/. to the Methodist Society of this town. The organ (by Messrs. Conachar and Brown of Huddersfield), was purchased by subscription, in 1857. The Independents in the year 1850, built a large chapel at the bottom of Finkle Street, near the river Codbeck, with an infant school attached. Their former chapel stood near Sowerby Flatts, in what was called the back lane, until 1804, when the chapel was built: since then it has been called chapel street. The Primitive Methodist Chapel is in Castlegate, near the Savings’ Bank, and was erected in 1851. Their former place of worship in Old Thirsk, is now converted into two cottages. Mr. Robert Peat, left 100/. to this society, and also 100/. to the British and Foreign School. The principal public Schools in Thirsk, besides those attached to the respective places of worship, are the Infant’s School, and the British and Foreign School. The Infant’s School was established in 1833. The site was presented and foundation laid by the late John Bell, Esq., and the cost of the building was raised in shares. The school is entirely supported by voluntary subscriptions, and amongst the contribu- tors all the religious sects are represented. About 40/. is raised annually. The affairs of the school are managed by a committee * Wesley’s Journal, Vol. iii., p. 242. + This chapel was opened for public worship, May 24th, 1804. The Independents had only visited Thirsk about eighteen months before this time, when Messrs, Howell and Jackson, the ministers, obtained leave of the lord of the manor, and preached in the Tollbooth. THTRSK. 141 chosen by the subscribers. The children pay a penny per week, and are eligible for admission from two years old to six. During last year the average attendance was ninety. The British and Foreign School was established in 1841, the ground for the site being also presented by the late John Bell, Esq. For the erection of the buildings 600/., was subscribed. In this school one hundred and forty-four boys and eighty-one girls are at present on the register ; and the voluntary subscriptions amount to about 50/. per annum. The revenue from the children’s pence amounted in 1856, to 1137. 10s. In addition to this, assistancé is received from government, who pay the salaries of the pupil teachers. The children are received at six years of age and up- wards, and pay from threepence to eightpence weekly, according to the circumstances of their parents. The premises are very com- plete, and with reference to the education furnished, we may quote the report of Her Majesty’s Inspector, J. S. Laurie, Esq. “ This school as usual is in excellent order, and a high state of. efficiency. The master combines great practical skill with un- wearied activity. The girls’ school is neat, quiet, and orderly. The reading is remarkably good, and in other branches fair pro- gress has been made.” Two pupil teachers from this school have obtained Queen’s Scholarships, and have been appointed to take the charge of other schools. From these data it will be seen that the educational condition of the town is such, that upwards of one in seven of the population is under public instruction. The Hall, the seat of Frederick Bell, Esquire, lord of the manor of Thirsk, is a brick building, almost close to the church. The exterior presents no features of particular interest. In the dining room are two full-length portraits of the late Ralph Bell, Esq., and his wife, painted by Gainsborough, two of the seven * full * The other full-length portraits by Gainsborough, are—A portrait in landscape, in the Marquis of Hertford’s collection, at Manchester House. Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell, in one picture, in the Dulwich Gallery. A Fisherman, in the private dining room at Hampton Court Palace. Two family portraits, pensants, in the dining room, Arundel Castle, Ss sss sr sh vets penser * tne 142 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. length portraits which that eminent artist ever painted. These por- traits have been frequently valued by connoisseurs at one thousand guineas each. There is also a fine painting executed by Mr. Fearnerley, of Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, for the late John Bell, Esq., M.P.; representing the leading members of the Lambton Hunt, mounted on the favourite hunters of Mr. Bell; besides the portrait of that gentleman, there are those of the late Ralph Lambton, Esq., of Merton, County of Durham, (brother to the late lord Durham, and master of that hunt), Major Healey of the North York Rifles, H. Williamson, Esq., of Sedgfield, (brother to Sir H. Williamson, Bart.), and the Rev. John Shafto, besides Winter the huntsman and other characters in the back ground. This is con- sidered to be the best picture Fearnerley ever painted. There is also a small, but select collection of authenticated British birds and animals, made by the late John Bell, Esq., among which are the Golden Eagle, Aguila Chryseta, the Sea Eagle, the Great Bustard, Otis Zarda, the Purple Heron, genuine British and very rare, the White Spoonbill, Platalea Leucorodia, the Eagle Owl, Bubo Maximus, the Red Grouse, Lagopus Scoticus, the Wild Swan, (a hundred of these birds were offered for sale on one market day at York, in the severe winter of 1839); the Wild Cat, the Buff-breasted Martin, the Otter, &c., &ce. There is also the skeleton of a horse, prepared by Mr. Veterinary Surgeon Holmes, late of Thirsk, now of Beverley, and two eggs of the Red- wing, Turdus Ilacus, found in a nest by a beck, at Kildale in Cleveland, believed to be about the only nest of this bird ever dis- covered in Great Britain; four eggs were found, the other two are in the collection of Captain Turton, 3rd dragoon guards, at Kilvington Hall. In the gardens is the curious font, (now con- verted into a dial), dug up at Hood Grange. At the corner of the street opposite the church gates, formerly stood a prison, or house of correction. It was taken down some years ago, and the site is now included in the grounds of the hall. When it was built we know not, but it was in existence one hundred years ago, as we learn from the following entry in the parish register of Thirsk. THIRSK. 143 “1746-7, Mar. 6, Thomas Walker, a prisoner, died.” Before the House of Correction for the North Riding was built at Northallerton, the prisoners for that part of the county were kept in confinement one quarter of the year at Malton, one at Easingwold, one at Thirsk, and the other at Northallerton. The site of the prison house (as before observed) is now a shrubbery, fish pond, and rural aquarium for fancy poultry, and scarce speci- mens of the goose and duck tribes, and bears the singular appel- lation of the “ Marriage.” The Mechanics’ Institute is located in a spacious building, well : adapted for the purpose, in Castlegate, near the foot path leading to Sowerby. There is a reading room well supplied with news- papers and periodicals, committee rooms, and a large room for lectures, which will hold about one thousand people. The first steps towards the organization of this Institution, were taken by a few persons connected with the Temperance movement, as a means of inducing young persons to abstain from frequenting public houses, and after many preparatory meetings the project was fairly set on foot, under the name of “ The Thirsk Mechanics’ Insti- tute and Mutual Improvement Society,” on the 12th of June, 1846. The objects were to provide a library for circulation ; a reading room supplied with newspapers, periodical publications, and works of reference; lectures, or papers on interesting, moral, literary, or scientific subjects; and classes for the cultivation of different branches of study. The affairs of the Institution are managed by a President, Vice-President, Treasurer, Honorary Secretary, and two Honorary Librarians. On the first formation, the number of members was fifty-four, and on the 31st of December following, they had increased to one hundred and twenty-one. In 1855 they amounted to one hundred and seventy-one, since which time there has been some diminution. The number of volumes in the library at the commencement, was about two hundred ; in 1857, it was five hundred and fifty. Sir William P. Gallwey, Bart., M.P., is now President, and Joseph Rider, Esq., Vice-President. 144 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The Thirsk Natural History Society, was formed in 1853, for the purpose of organizing and developing the scientific exploration of the vicinity. The members meet once a month for consultation, discussion, and the exhibition of specimens. The annual sub- scription is six shillings, and the entrance fee five shillings. A manuscript note book goes the round of the members once a month, in which from time to time they record their observations. The society possesses a tolerably good microscope and library of refer- ence, but does not form any public collection of ar Mr. John G. Baker is the president. The Savings’ Bank, first established in 1819, is now held in part of a large substantial brick building in Castlegate. In the same edifice is a room used for lectures, concerts, and public meetings, capable of accommodating one thousand persons. There are three banking establishments in the the town, that of Messrs. J. Backhouse, and Co. ; a branch of the Yorkshire Banking Company, and a branch of the York Union Bank. There are many Benefit Societies located in Thirsk, the object of which is to provide against a time of sickness, and ensure a fund for burial. The Odd Fellows hold their Lodge at the Blacksmith’s Arms. They are numerous, and their finances are in a flourishing condition. The Royal Foresters hold their Court at the Red Bear, in the Market Place. The Union Club holds its meetings at different places. The Victoria Society is established at Mr. Brady’s, in the Market Place. The Old Friendly Society is located at the Crown, in the Market Place. There is a Mutual Benefit Society in connection with Salem Chapel, (Independent). The Thirsk Poor Law Union, was formed February 21st, 1837, and includes forty-one Townships or places,* embracing an area * Ainderby Quernhow, Bagby, Balk, Birdforth, Boltby, Carlton Miniott, Catton, Cowsby, Dalton, Elmire with Crakehill, Fawdington, Filiskirk, Holme, Howe, Hutton Sessay, Kepwick, Kilburn, Kirby Knowle, Kirby Wiske, Knayton with Brawith, Maunby, Newby Wiske, Newsham with Breckenbro’, North Kilvington, THIKSK. 145 of about eighty-five square miles, or more than 60,000 acres; the population in 1841, was 12,728, in 1851 it was only 12,760, of whom 6373 were males, and 6387 females. The number of houses was 2780. Thirsk elects two guardians, the other townships one each. The first chairman of the board, was Joshua Samuel Crompton, Esq., the next Mr. Thomas Smith of Thirsk : Frederick Bell, Esq., is the present chairman. The assessed value; of the © union in 1842, was 83,243/. Assessed value to the county rate in 1847, 98,1287. The building of the Workhouse was let by con- tract, March 3rd, 1838; finished, 29th of December in the same year; and first occupied by the paupers January 29th, 1839. The cost of the Workhouse, including site, title deeds, architect’s per centage, and all expenditure, was 2202/. 17s. 7d. An additional cost afterwards incurred for fever wards, drains, and pumps, of 343/. 8s. 6d., made the total cost of the building 2546/. 6s. 1d. There is accommodation for 120 paupers in the house. On Jan. Ist, 1849, there were sixty-five in, and 451 receiving out-door relief from the union. The average relief of the poor for three years in the district comprised in the union, previous to 1836, was 39521. For three years ending 25th March, 1840, it was 2792/.: for the three years ending 25th March, 1843, it was 30541. The total expenditure in 1838, was 3373/. 14s. 4d. In 1848, it was 3649/. 10s. 10d. | The average amount of relief for the three years, ending March 25th, 1858, was 1239/. the half year. The total expenditure for the year ending at the same time, was 37711. 10s., including county and police rates, and all other charges. The number receiving relief at the end of 1857, was 392. Joseph Rider, Esq., was clerk to the guardians from the forma- tion of the union until 1851, when he resigned, and was succeeded by Robert Hick, Esq., the present clerk. The Union is divided into five medical districts, Thirsk, Knayton, Topeliffe, Kilburn, and Pickhill. Pickhill with Roxby, Sand Hutton, Sessay, Sinderby, Skipton, South Kilvington, South Oterington, Sowerby, Sutton-under- W hitstonecliff, Thirkleby, Thirlby, Thirsk, Thornborough, Thornton-le-Moor, Thornton-le-Street, Topcliffe, Upsall. K rl a A I Np ep ape any - ~ IEC CS CL NA yest guess ese neennneseneer weno pment ——— “¢ _ = = ‘ 146 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. A branch of the County Court of Yorkshire is established here, Joseph Rider, Esq., clerk. Thirsk is a polling place for the election of knights of the shire for the North riding of Yorkshire. Petty Sessions for the Wapontake of Birdforth are held here every week. The acting magistrates are Lord Greenock, Sir W. P. Gallwey, Bart., T. W. Lloyd, Esq., F. Bell, Esq., Capt. Turton, and Revds. Messrs. Scott, Higginson, and Hawkins. Clerks, Messrs. Allison and Arrowsmith. Amongst the punishments formerly in vogue in Thirsk and the Vale of Mowbray, was the stocks,* or drunkard’s pillory ; they may yet be seen broken and disused in many of the villages. The ducking stool had alsoa place amongst the reformatory machinery of this town. It was chiefly intended for the punishment of scolding women, and consisted of a stool or chair fixed at the end of a long pole; the delinquents were placed on the stool, then let down into the water.t The Market t held on Monday, is well supplied with corn, butter, * The punishment of the stocks is of great antiquity, we find it mentioned in the . Book of the prophet Jeremiah, chap. xx., v. 1, 2, 3, more than 600 years before Christ. It is mentioned in the laws of Solon, the Athenian lawgiver. Aristophanes makes mention of something like it in a play written 420 years before Christ. It is a singular fact that the great Cardinal Wolsey, *‘ that once trod the ways of glory, And sounded all the depths and shoals of honour,” suffered the ignominious punishment of the stocks for being drunk. He was then in- cumbent of Lymington, near Yeoval; it was the fair, or village feast, when Sir Amias Paulet, a strict moralist, seeing the minister in liquor ordered him to be put in the stocks.—See Campbell’s Lives of the Chancellors. + In 1623, ffranciscus Jackson et Jo’hes Ingle, constables of Thirsk, are presented at the court of the lord of the manor, and fined xvd. each, for not having the ducking stool in proper repair (le duckinge stole non repavant). + The Market is held by prescription, and is of the most remote antiquity, no doubt | coeval with the foundation of the Castle. We know that it existed in 1145, as it is mentioned in the foundation charter of the Priory of Newburgh of thatdate. Search has been made in the Tower of London and elsewhere, for a charter or grant, but in vain. The following extract relative to the market, is from an old paper of the age of Elizabeth, which appears to have been a case for the opinion of legal counsel. **The Lords of ye Market Towne of Thirsk, and who are owners of ye Market place and Borrow there, have time without memory of man taken by p’scrip’con all manner of Towles of Goods, Chattle, Corne, Butter, and all other things sold in ye same, or att ye great ffairs held there, and also all pickage, stallage, and all other dewes belonging and accostomed to be paid. And ye officers of ye Lord by order from him doe provide measures, shambles, and 194 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. a chapel to the south of the chancel, covering the family vault of the Franklands, and a tower with a lofty spire, placed at the north- west angle of the building. The style partakes largely of the De- corated period. The tower is square, supported by buttresses at the outer angles, which terminate in triangular heads at the level of the belfry windows ; these last are four in number, of two lights each, one on each face of the tower, with geometrical tracery in the sweep of a. depressed pointed arch ; a bold corbel table, adorned with eight crocketted pinnacles, two on each side terminates the tower ; from the centre of which rises an octagonal spire, making the total height 100 feet. The windows of the aisles are generally of two lights each, with tracery above, under a depressed arch ; those of the clerestory are much smaller, of one light each, with trefoil heads. The roofs of the side aisles are much flatter than those of the nave and chancel, which are of a high pitch and covered with tiles. The east window of the chancel is of three lights, filled with brilliant stained glass, painted by one of the ladies of the family ; and the great western window of the nave is of four lights. The exterior of the Frankland Chapel presents the appearance of a low octagonal tower. The walls are of hard lime- stone, in a rough state, the quoins and ornamental work are of Rainton stone, and the tracery of the windows is of white magne- sian limestone. The entrance is on the west, between the tower and nave. The basement story of the tower is used as a baptistery, and lighted by a window of three lights, filled with stained glass. The interior of the nave is striking and lofty; it is divided from the aisles by three large, and two small, arches on each side, resting on four octagonal pillars, with moulded caps. ‘The roof is of open framework, arched and trussed, and is very elegant. The vestry on the north, and the Frankland aisle on the south, are divided from the chancel by two arches on each side. The floor of the chancel presents a pleasing piece of mosaic, composed of Minton’s decorated tiles. The Frankland Chapel occupying the south-east angle of the building, is placed over the private vault of that family ; the base is a square of about nine feet, it is afterwards thrown into an octangular form, by arches across the angles, above THIRKLEBY. | 195 which rises a groined roof. Mural tablets to the memory of different members of the family are placed against the walls. Two traceried windows on the east and south sides filled with stained glass, cast in a dim réligious light. The floor is partly composed of decorated tiles. On the alter table is a large brazen alms’-dish, representing in bold relief, Abraham offering his son Isaac in sacrifice; the youth is kneeling before a blazing altar; the knife is uplifted to give the fatal blow ; an angel appears above, and the ram is seen caught in a thicket on the right. Frequent cleaning has defaced the counte- nances of the patriarch and his son, but the general design yet remains quite distinct. | The sittings are low open benches. Verses from Scripture are inscribed on the walls in different places, and round the lofty pointed arch between the chancel and the nave. The length of the nave is 48 feet 6 inches, breadth 88 feet; length of chancel 25 feet, breadth 33 feet; the interior height of the nave is about fifty feet. The following monumental inscriptions occur in different parts of the church. On the floor, at the west end of the nave are three large slabs of blue stone, one of them at present without any inscription, the brass having been torn away by hands profane long ago. It probably covered the remains of William Ayscough, Esq., of Osgodby Hall, a very active magistrate during the Commonwealth era, and M.P. for Thirsk in 1645. The next, beneath a shield, bearing a fesse between three asses passant for Ayscough, impaling a chevron between three talbots passant, on a chief embattled as many martlets for Burgoyne, has the following inscription -— ‘‘ Depositum Judithe filie Johannis Burgoyne de Sutton in comitat Bedford Brtt, et uxoris Gulielmi Ayscough de Osgoodby in comitat Ebor. Milit. ab anno 1640, mensis Mart. 9° ad 1688, et Julij diem 21 quo obiit. Caro mea in Spe Requiessit. Psal. 16.9. Omne sub hoc Saxo mihi quod mortale Relinquo Corpus ab hoc (Anime Spes) Immortale Resurgam. Posuit hoc lugubris Amicus.’’ The other bears the arms of Ayscough as above, impaling a —_—_———— 196 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. chevron between three trees, with this inscription beneath— | ‘¢ Anna Ayscough Vidua meestissima in memoriam Gulielmi Ayscough Armigeri, mariti charissimi, viri ingenio pollentis animo invictissimi, moribus amoenissimi, filii natu maximi Gulielmi Ayscough Militis adhuc superstitis, hoc monumentum possuit. Obiit 18° die Novembris Anno Dni 1676.” On the south wall of the nave, near the west end are two large white marble tablets inscribed as follows :— To the Memory of ; Sir William Frankland of this place, Bart., A true lover of his country, A constant asserter of its libertys, a promoter of Its welfare, and a defender of its laws in all capacities ; As a representative in Parliament, As a public magistrate, A friendly, courteous, and charitable neighbour ; A prudent and indulgent father, A tender and affectionate husband to his only and Dearly beloved wife Arabella y° daughter of y® Honoura™e Henry Belasys of Newbrough, Esq’: Of a pleasant wit and agreeable conversation, Of a sound judgment and unbiassed integrity ; And of a temper Even, cheerful, happy to himself and Delightful to all who knew him. To compleat all y® rest, In his religion truly Christian, pious and humble: Of a comprehensive and charitable spirit, Free from superstition and neglect ; His mind entirely submitted to y® Divine will, As appeared by an admirable patience many years Under the affliction of a most painful distemper, and When it pleased God to call him hence, In a cheerful resignation of his soul To his Redeemer in a steadfast assurance Of a happy eternity. He died August y® 224, An. Dom. 1697, In the 59* year of his age. Close adjoining the above is the other to the memory of his lady :— Near this place lyeth y® body of Arabella y° beloved wife of S' Wm i a THIRKLEBY. 197 Frankland of this Parish, Bart., y° daughter of y° Hon®!* Henry Belasyse, eldest son of Thomas Lord Visct® Fauconberg, y® mother of nine children, of w’ch four died young and five survived, viz. :—Thomas, Grace, Henry, Will., and John, and in these relations, as well as all others, behaved herself with that Prudence and christian piety yt thereby she gave an Example fit for y° imitation of the age she lived in, left her own memory precious to posterity, and now, through the merits of Christ enjoys y® reward and comfort of those graces w’ch He so liberally bestowed upon her, having rendered her soul to him y* gave it upon y® twenty-sixth day of February, Anno Dom. 1687, in the fiftieth year of her age. In the south aisle on a small brass on the floor is inscribed, Here lie the remains of Mary Trant Smelt, the wife of Cornelius Smelt, Esq., of Thirsk. She died greatly lamented October Sth, 1797, aged 34. On the south wall, near the reading desk, on a large tablet of white marble is inscribed, _ Near this place lyeth the body of St Thomas Frankland of this Parish, Bart. | He was a person that in all stations of life behaved with an equal pru- dence and honour. Whilst he was one of the Governors of the Post Office, he considerably improved that branch of the revenue without op- pressing the subject. He rebuilt this church at his own expense in 1722. He was a true Friend, a kind husband, an Indulgent Father, and a gene- rous Master. And being entirely resigned to the good pleasure of his Creator during a long and painfull distemper, he departed this life the 30th day of October, 1726, in the 62nd year of his age. Tn the same Repository lyeth Elizabeth, wife of the said Sir Thomas Frankland. She was daughter of Sir John Russell of Chippenham, in the county of Cambridge, Bart. She had ten children by her said hus- band, four of which survived her, viz. :—-Thomas her eldest son, who succeeded his father in honour and estate, and erected this monument to the memory of his dear parents. Richard Frederick, and a daughter named Frances, widow of Roger Talbot of Woodend, Esq'* She was a devout Christian, a loving wife, and a tender mother, and died the 20th day of July, 1733, and the 68th year of her age. In the Frankland Chapel are the following inscriptions :— .Memorie Sacrum Lucia uxor Gulielmi Frankland de Thirklebie Armigeri, filia Henrici Boteleri milites, comitatus Hartfordiz, ex nobili familia Botelerorum ca Baronium hujus Regni, Religionis pure, Devotionis sincere, conscientiz tener, charitatis prodigz, notis gaudium natis gloria viro decus Christo acceptabile sacrificium, Obiit 17 Die Maij Aitatis sue 57. 198 | THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Lapis insculptus viatorem alloquiter, Miraris solito qui sim fulgentior hujus, Luceo mine radijs Lucia clara tuis, Lucia tot tantis splendens virtutia illa, Lucia que devima prole beata fuit, Quz latet hic nuper quanto candore reluxit, Quanto lucidior quando resurgit erit. Venit iterum qui me in lucem reponet dies. Post tenebras spero lucem. Near this place lies the ‘pody of Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart., (second son of Henry Frankland, Governor of Fort William, in Bengal), Admiral | of the White ; who represented the Borough of Thirsk in six parliaments. He died at Bath on the 2]st of November, 1784, aged 66. He married Sarah, daughter of William Rhett, Esq., of South Carolina, by whom he left seven sons and three daughters. ‘‘In memory of Captain Robert Frankland, fourth son of Henry Frankland, governor of Fort William in Bengal, who died 25th December, 1757, off Bombay, while commander of His Majesty" s ship the Yarmouth, ‘Avunculo suo gratus.”’ ‘¢' This memorial of the premature decease of four dear children, was erected by their afflicted parents, Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart., and Dorothy his wife, in the year of our Lord 1803. Sarah, born Dec. 13th, 1775, died June 8th, 1782. Amelia, born Feb. 10th, 1777, died Jan. 4th, 1800. Marianne, born Nov. 10th, 1779, died Aug. 17th, 1795. Henry, born May 26th, 1781, died Dec. 2nd, 1801. The remains of the three first le in the vault of this church, of the last in the Island of Madeira.’’ ‘‘ In the vault of this church are deposited the remains of Sir Thomas Frankland, Baronet, son of Admiral Sir Thomas Frankland, the 5th baronet ; born A.D. 1750, who died Jan. 4th, 1831. Also of Dorothy his wife, second daughter of William Smelt, Esq., of Leases in the county of York, born A.D. 1750, died May 19th, 1820. And God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes; and there shall be no more death, neither sorrow, nor crying, neither shall there be any more pain, for the former things are passed away.—Rev. c. xxi., v. 4.”’ Against the eastern wall of this chapel is a mural tablet sur-. mounted by a canopy, and divided into six compartments by panels, the upper central one contains the following inscription :— - Here rests in the hope of a blessed Resurection to Eternal Life, the body of Sir Robert Frankland Russell, Bart., who departed this life on the xi. of March, MpcccxLIx., after only two days illness. He was born July xvi., MDCCLXxXXIV., and was member for the Borough of Thirsk in several parliaments. | | | | _— Ani ene. A nts Re a aA. ans ~. ew a 1 aA a aN A i I i hh a, ta RE SS NR CN ES AE nme A en THIRKLEBY. 199 Also the body of his wife Louisa Anne, third daughter of Lord George Murray, Bishop of St. David’s. By whom this church was re-erected, as an affectionate memorial of her husband. She was born May xxixth, MDCCLXXxx and died Also the body of their second daughter Caroline Agnes, who was born March viiith, mMpcccxx., and died after a lingering illness, May xviiith, MDCCCXXXXVI. Believe in the Lord Jesus Christ and thou shalt be saved.—Acts XVlii., v. dl. The Benefice is a Discharged Vicarage in the deanery of Bulmer, Archdeaconry of Cleveland and diocese of York. As already re- lated, this chapel, then dependent on Coxwold, was given by Roger de Mowbray, to the Prior and Convent of Newburgh. After the dissolution the Rectory of Thirkieby, with the advowson of its vicarage, were given to the Archbishop of York and his successors, by King Henry VIII., in exchange; and the Archbishop is still the patron and impropriator. It is thus entered in Bacon’s Liber Regis, p. 1119. “Thirkleby v. (All Saints). Clear yearly value 26/. 15s. 8d. King’s books 67. Synodals and Procurations ds. 4d. Value in mans. cum du. bovat. terr. & un. cotag. per ann. 18s. 4d. Decim. foen. lan. agn. vitul., &c. Pri. Newburgh, Propr. Arch- bishop of York.” In 1818, the living was returned as worth 148/. 8s. 3d. per ann. 20s. was left by Brian Kitchingman of Leeds, 10s. of which were to be paid to the Vicar for preaching an annual sermon on Christmas day, and 10s. for the poor of the parish. Present net value 2101. The Register books commence in 1611. The following Testamentary burials have taken place in this church.* | “16 Dec., A.D. 1512, Thomas Cowton Vicar of Thirkilby.” _ «22 Feb., 1557, Bryan Barker pbr. Vicar of Thirkilby, buried in the church yard, hard against the porch door.” «29 Junij, A.D. 1478, Thos. Fulthorp of Thirkilby, Esq.” “2 Sep., 1559, William Askwith of Osgodby.” “92 Oct., A.R., 13 Eliz., Anne Askwith of Osgodby, widow.” * Torre’s MSS., 589. et tt hts a a hn he ss ese nee Nate eee _ OL CCG tt rn lt ye re nn en a a aaa aD 1 200 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. “30 July, A.D. 1593, Fras. Kaye of Osgodby Grange, gent.” “21 Nov., A.D. 1623, Ralph Latton of Osgodby Grange, gent., buried in the church yard near his son’s grave.” “2 Nov., A.D. 1624, Tim. Askwith of Kilborne, gent., buried in the chancel of the church near his mother.” “15 Feb., A.D. 1621, Rob. Firbanke of Thirkelbye, Cl., buried in the church yard, near besides his wife.” “4 Nov., A.D. 1624, Robt. Wemas Vicar of Thirkilby.” “24 May, A.D. 1483, Robt. Pepper, Cl. Vicar of Thirkilby, buried in the chancel.” The charities belonging to this parish consist of eleven acres of land; 417. 7s. 6d. in the Savings’ Bank, and 43/. 6s. 8d., taken by the parish: out of which 10s. per annum is paid to the minister for a sermon on Christmas day, and the remainder of the rent and interest is distributed amongst the poor. a ee ana Ta aaa 4 ———- = HOOD GRANGE. 201 HOOD GRANGE. Hoop, or HODE GRANGE, is now an ancient farm house, in the | parish of Kilburne, situate at the foot of the Hambleton Hills, about seven miles east of Thirsk. Here was formerly a hermitage, wherein resided Robert de Alnetto, who had been a monk of Whitby. He was a Norman, and uncle to Gundrea the mother of Roger de Mowbray ; this was previous to the year 1138. We can easily imagine what this place would be at that time— an uncultivated wilderness, overgrown with thickets of thorns and briars, the lower parts in winter flooded by streams from the neigh- bouring mountains; shut in, then as now, on three sides by hills, rocks, and precipices, their sides clad with a scanty growth of stunted timber; presenting in summer a picture of mountain scenery, wild, but not unlovely. During winter the scene would change to one of rugged desolation. To such places did good men retire to escape the contagion of this world, and prepare themselves for another. Their dwellings, made by their own hands, were of the most rude and primitive kind, sometimes consisting of a cave scooped out of the rock, some- times a hut of stone and earth. To most of them was a small chapel and garden attached; in the former the hermit said his prayers, in the latter cultivated the few herbs from which his sub- sistence was derived. The general costume of hermits was a long gown with arm holes, and a hood, which covered the whole body; a tunic and a NS ee _ affected, a knight’s iron corslet. The beard was generally very = a ee ne 202 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. rosary ; a rope for a girdle, a hair shirt, and what was peculiarly long, and the dress often very ragged. Unlike other Religious, they could possess property, and make a will. They commonly followed trades or occupations. It was not unusual for bishops and abbots, to retire and end their days as hermits. Some hermits were mere thieves and vagabonds, who made their cells receptacles for stolen goods. Among this latter class we have no desire to rank the noble Norman who formerly resided here; he was perhaps as harmless as any Norman of that age. He continued to reside here until the year 1138, when his niece Gundrea having enter- tained an abbot and twelve fugative monks, driven from Calder by the Scots, for a while at the castle of Thirsk, sent them to reside here, when the first possessor ceded the place to them, on condition that they should there found a house for canons of their order, this they agreed to, and the grant was subsequently confirmed by Roger de Mowbray. Here they built themselves a dwelling and church upon a larger scale than were needed by the humble hermit. The sending them provisions to Hood being attended with many inconveniences, Roger de Mowbray at the request of his mother and Thurstan, Archbishop of York, gave them his cow- pasture of Cambe, and all the lands of Wilden, Scakilden, and Erghum for their support, A.D., 1140. Here Gerald, the first abbot died, March 25th, 1142, and Roger the sub-cellarer was chosen abbot in his place. In 1143, Roger de Mowbray gave to the monks, the town and _ church of Old Byland, to which place they removed, intending to build an abbey there; bat the situation not being suitable, they removed again, and finally settled near Coxwold, under shelter of the Hambleton Hills, where they built the magnificent abbey of Byland. Tanner * gives the following account of this place.—*It was originally an Hermitage for a monk of Whitby, but A.D. 1138, was given by Roger de Mowbray to a convent of Cistercian monks, * Notitia Monastica, p. 656. ee ee ——— HOOD GRANGE. 203 who were driven from Calder in Cumberland, by the incursions of the Scots. Here they continued four or five years, and then re- moved to Byland. Afterwards Sampson de Albini giving them some other lands and tithes in exchange, this place was granted to the monastery of Newburgh, and a cell of black canons from thence, fixed for some time here, dedicated to the blessed virgin.” Sampson de Albini, who was cousin to Roger de Mowbray, having obtained possession of Hood, it was subsequently given by Adam Fossard to the priory of Newburgh, into which priory the said Sampson retired, devoted himself to God, and took upon him the habit of acanon regular. This gift of Adam Fossard was con- firmed by Roger de Mowbray, and a cell of black canons from _ Newburgh was established here, which same canons did acknow- ledge the same Adam to be patron of the said place and all be- longing thereunto.* | Time has wrought great changes at Hood, the buildings of the monastic establishment have been converted into two farm houses, whose thick walls and antique windows, are indicative of their great age and former use. In the wall of the barn is a stone coffin placed upright, probably that of the abbot Gerald who was buried here. It was found in digging foundations for the erection of a thrashing machine. The upper parts of two windows are also inserted in the wall; they appear to have been double narrow lights, with trefoil heads. The present barn probably occupies the site of the ancient Church, and the burial ground was where the fold-yard now is. The remains of the former greatness of Hood are few indeed, ages of ruin and neglect have swept away the church, so that not a fragment remains; the few relics, which at different times have been found have disappeared, with the ex- ception of the font, which was dug up about the year 1818, and is now preserved in the grounds of Thirsk Hall, where it is formed intoa dial. “ Itis square at the base, and supported at the angles by four grotesque figures, resembling what heralds call sea lions. Two opposite sides are decorated with as many indescribable * Mon. Ang., Vol. vi., p. 322. 204 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. beings; one apparently human, though mutilated, holding a book and a two-edged sword; the other supporting on a kind of shield an Agnus Dei, with its usual emblems, a staff, cross, and banner. The upper part being circular forms the basin, which is now hidden under a sun dial.” * The house is situated in the centre of a semicircular valley, formed on the east by a bend of the Hambleton Hills; on the south Hood Hill, partly covered with wood, closes the prospect in that direction; while Sutton Brow projects a considerable distance from the main mountain chain on the north, so that it is open only to the west. ** Little old Hamlet ! ever may’st thou be Retired and happy as thou seemest now.”’ * Jefferson’s Thirsk, p. 118. FILISKTRK. 205 FILISKIRK. AxsovuT three miles north-east of Thirsk, on a green hill side, almost hid by groves of trees, stands the village of FILISkIRK.* The place presents little worthy of note except its quiet sylvan cha- racter, and its ancient church, the latter well worthy of a visit from the antiquarian tourist. | There is no name resembling Filiskirk in Domesday, although Sutton, Boltby, and Marderby, all in this parish, occur. The following entry, however, probably belongs to this place. Like all the lands in the same parish, it belonged to Hugh the son of Baldric. The likelihood is that when the church was built the parish assumed the name of the saint to which it was dedicated, and in time the old name became forgotten. “TI. Manors. In Fridebi, Ligulf and Gamel had three carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to one plough. Girrard a vassal of Hugh’s, has there two ploughs, and one villane with one plough. Wood pasture eight guarentens long and four broad. The whole manor one mile long, and half a mile broad. Value in King Edward’s time twenty-six shillings, now five shillings. * Filiskirk, or rather Felixkirk, a name unique in England, is not of great anti- quity ; the earliest mention we find of it is in the foundation charter of Newburgh Priory, (1145) wherein Roger de Mowbray gives to the canons of that house—“ five acres of land in the territory of Bagby, near the road which leads to St. Felix.” St. Felix, to whom the church is dedicated, and from whom the village takes its name, was the first bishop of East Anglia, and was consecrated at Dunwick, A.D. 639. He founded the monastery of Soham in Cambridgeshire. His remains were transported to Romsey Abbey in 1026, and were enshrined there in 1192. 206 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Berewick. This belongs to Fridebi, Ravenetorp (Raventhorp) one carucate to be taxed. Land to half a plough.” * The above conjecture is somewhat strengthened by the fact that Raventhorp yet forms part of the parish of Filiskirk. This village, with much of the immediate neighbourhood, after- wards came into possession of the knights of the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem,whose commandery stood on the hill about half a mile distant. . The Church was appropriated to the knights of the above hos- pital in England, and a vicarage ordained therein sixteen kal. Maij, 1279. After the dissolution of the religious houses, Henry VIII. granted the rectory and advowson, together with the com- mandery of Mount St. John, and the manor of Sutton-under-Whit- stonecliff to the see of York. The Church dedicated to St. Felix, is an interesting fabric, ex- hibiting great variety of architecture, part of it being of the Anglo- Norman age, and the other parts of different periods. It consists of a tower, nave with aisles, chancel and porch; the last is quite modern; the tower is square, and of more recent date than some other parts of the building. ‘The nave appears more ancient than the tower, and has buttresses of two stages at the angles only. The chancel, (at least a portion of it) is the oldest, and probably formed part of the first erection. Only two of the original windows remain, (that on the north side walled up), the other is above the chancel door, round-headed, about eight inches wide, the wall splayed in the inside, in true Norman style. The next window eastward is an insertion, of two lights, with trefoil heads, the eye above circular. The buttresses are flat, projecting only a few inches from the building. The east window is of three lights, and contains some beautiful fragments of stained glass of foliated de- sign, apparently selected from more which has been lost. ‘The roof is of a low pitch, and covered with lead. The nave is divided from the aisles by two pointed arches on each side; one massive round pillar in the centre supporting each * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 198. oe meee at tc I SO LT CT CC a FILISKIRK. | 207 pair. The chancel is the most interesting part of the fabric, proving its antiquity by two fine Norman columns attached to the wall; the arch which has rested on their finely voluted capitals has disappeared; from these eastward, the church has been circular, as may be easily secn by the inward bending of the walls for six or eight feet on each side; until we meet with the work of the modern zmprovers, who have torn down the eastern portion, and rebuilt it in a square form, with as little ability as judgment. The circular east ends are said to be derived from an imitation of the hemicycle of the Roman Basilica; and are by some antiquaries referred to the Saxon age. The finest example of this style in Yorkshire is Lastingham church, which yet retains its circular east end in beautiful preservation, as well as its crypt or under- croft. The oldest portion of Ripon Minster has a circular end. The beauty of that at Lastingham makes us much regret the de- struction of this at Filiskirk. Beneath a recess in the north wall of the aie are laid two full-length figures male and female ; not both in one block, or both belonging to one tomb, for one of them has evidently been removed to its present position from some other place in the church. The male figure is that of a knight crusader, arrayed in link mail, his legs crossed, and his arms folded on his breast, with his hands joined in the attitude of prayer. The pointed shield (blank) is on the left side; he wears the belt and spurs of knighthood, his feet rest upon a lion; the drapery of the surcoat is finely executed and the whole figure in a good state of preservation. The female figure is habited in long flowing drapery which con- ceals the whole person, except the head and feet, the latter rest against a small dog; the former is partly covered by a veil; the -figures of two angels are sculptured near her head; her hands are joined as if in the act of devotion. The canopy above the recess in which they are partly laid is circular, and adorned with crockets, and has terminated in a final, now broken off. There is no in- scription of any kind about the figures to indicate whom they were intended to represent.* The probability however is that * Filiskirk and its church are thus briefly noticed in Camden—“ A little to the 208 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. they belonged to the potent family of de Ross, who had in very early times a castle or manor house at Raventhorpe in this parish. The arcading of the Sedilia on the south side of the chancel yet remains, but the shafts of the columns separating the seats have been broken down; and the seats themselves filled up with three antique tablets of stone, bearing inscriptions to the memory of a vicar of the church and his family. ‘¢ Juxta jacet corpus Zachary Suger A.M. hujus Ecclesize nuper Vicar obijt, January 16, Etates sue 49, Anno Domini 1720.” “ Hic jacet Wilhelmus Suger optimus filius indulgentissi patris obijt AEtat suze 19, Aano Domini 1720. Vivens mortuus bene laudatus.’’ ‘* Here lyeth Judeth the wife of Zachary Suger Vicar, a woman of rare endowments of body and mind, died 23rd year of her age, and the year of our Lord 1703.” On a marble tablet against the east wall of the chancel is inscribed— ‘‘To the memory of Gregory Elsley, Esquire, of Mount St. John, Lieut.-Colonel of the North York Militia, who died January xxi., A.D. MDCCCXXVIII., aged LI.’’ Within the altar rails are the following inscriptions on the floor— | ‘‘ Johannes Trueman A.M., ad triginta et nonem annos hujus Eclesiz Cura ad sexaginta et tres vita perfunctus est 23° August, 1695.’ ‘‘ Hic spe beate resurrectionis posite sunt reliquie Joseph Ducken- field hujus Ecclesia per xix annos Vicarii qui Sacris literis totus inser- viens fidem et officia christianorum pie assidue et docta simplicitate enarrant., Obit v. die Aprilis, 1739, Aitatis 58.” Near the above on a brass bearing three turbots naiant, two and one, with an arm brandishing a trident for a crest, is inscribed— ‘‘ Hic jacet Gulielmus Turbutt Generosus antiqua et penitus oriundus prosapia quem natura ut exquisitisima corporis structura ita eximijs. Animi dotibus optimaq. ditarat jud (icio). Decimo tertio die, Aprilis, Anno Domi 1673, tatis sue 26. In manus Salvatoris sui Jesu Christi alacritis Spiritum deposuit—Charissime uxori sue Anne duos filios primogenitum Gulielmum et Richardum reliquit. Attigit ipse Acmen Coelosq-ascendit in Altos. Noluit in Terris mors superesse diu.”’ north of Mount St. John is Felixkirk, in which church are some old monuments of Knight’s Templers.”’ ' ' FILISKIRK. . 209 The north window of the chancel contains four shields of arms in stained glass, one of them modern, bearing the five roses of Elsley. On a marble tablet against the north wall of the nave is in- scribed— ** Sacred to the memory of the Reverend Watson Stote Donnison, late of Trimdon, in the county of Durham, and 53 years Vicar of this parish, who departed this life on the 23rd of March, 1827, in the 80th year of his age. His remains are deposited in a vault in the middle aisle of the church. Below on a shield gules, is a lion rampant, Or. Motto Spes mea Deus. In the church yard is the following summary of the brief career of the life of Hannah wife of David Cornforth, who died July 10th, 1853, aged 21. | Twenty years I was a maid, One year I was a wife, Eighteen hours a mother, And then departed life. The following Testamentary burials have taken place in this church. “13 Dec., 1346, Joh. de Walkingham made her will (proved Jan. 30, 1346), giving her soul to God Almighty, St. Mary, and All Saints, and her body to be buried in the parish church of St. Felix, against the sepulchre of Sr. John de Walkingham her husband.” “ Ult. Julij, A.D. 1486, Thomas Marshall Vicar of Felixkirk, (will prove 1 Dec., 1486), buried in the quire.” “25 Jan., A.D. 1564, Tho. Masterman of Sutton, in the parish of Felixkirk, (will proved 4th Oct., 1565), buried in the church yard.” “26 Sep., 1588, Eliz. Conyers, late wife of Tho. Conyers of Heskett, (will proved 4 Oct., 1588), buried in yeth of Phillis ~ Churche.” “27 Dec., 9 Eliz., Gilbert Conyers of Heskett, Gent., (will proved 25 April, 1599), buried in the church.” “ A.D. 1610, Richard Comyn of Felixkirke, Vicar, (will proved - _ 20 Feb., 1610), buried in-the chancell.” ss : o. ee ee ns ne eat eee et 210 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. “3 Jan., A.D. 1618, Tho. Bell, Vicar of Felixkirke, (will proved Mar. 23, 1618), to be buried in the church or church yard.” “8th Oct., A.D. 1463, John Sugars, Vicar of Felixkirke, dying intestate, administration was then taken of his goods.” «© 21 Mar., A.D. 1548, Leonard Gamble, of Sutton-under-Whit- ton-cliff, (will proved 28 May, 1548), buried in the church yard.” “21 Dec., 1579, Tho. Conyers of Heskett, Gent., (will proved 24 Mar., 1579), buried in the p’ish church y4 of F elixkirk, near unto his wife and children.” The living is a Vicarage in the gift of his grace the oe of York. In very early times this church was given to the Brethren of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem in England, supposed by one of the family of de Ross, Lords of Helmsley, ancestors of the Earls of Rutland. The following documents re- lative to the early history of this church, are copied from Torre’s MSS :— “ The Church of St. Felix in Clyveland, was given to the Prior and Brethren of the Hospital of St. John, Jerusalem in England, to whom it was appropriated by Walter Gifford, Archbishop of York, who, A.D. 1279, 16 Kal. Maij, ordained that this Church of St. Felix, (whereof the said Hospitallers are patrons) be appropri- ated to them), saving to the Archdeacon of the place his Arch- diaconal rights in all things), and that the said House, (out of the Church) by the hand of John Cravend, (who possessed this Church at their presentation), receive yearly at Michaelmas 40s., as long as he shall live: which said John shall have the residue of the obventions, fruits, and profits of the said Church, in name of a simple benefice without cure during his life. Also he shall have the house, &c., and adjoin to the church. And that all ordinary and extraordinary burdens of the church when they happen shall be divided between the said masters, and ‘Thomas de Cawood their Vicar of the Church. And the collation to the Vicarage shall totally belong to the Archbishop and his successors. Which Ordination was confirmed by the Chapt of York under their Common Seal, on the Kal. Maij, 1279.” a ae nn nm on a a LT FILISKIRK. 211 “ 5th Nov., A.D. 1314. _ An Inquisition was taken touching the portions of this Vicarage of Felixkirke, which found that to the same Vicarage belonged 24 acres of land, arable and pastoral. Inseparable, in a place called Holland; in which land the church was endowed, and the land was worth per ann. 24s., 2 tofts in Marderby, and 4 oxgangs of land in the fields of Felixkirk and Marderby, valued per aun. at 40s. A certain piece of meadow called Hathskelding, containing 3 acres, worth per ann. 10s. Another piece called Cromer Crofts, containing one acre and a half, valet. per ann. 18d. One toft and 4 acres of land, rented per ann. at 2s. 6d. One toft and 4 acres of land red. p. ann. 2s. One toft, red. p. ann. 6d. One toft, red. p- ann. 6d. One toft, red. p. ann. 15d. One toft, red. p. ann. 18d. One toft, red. p. ann. 2s. One toft, red. p. ann. 12d. One toft, red. p. ann. 4d. In Marderby. One toft and 1 croft, red. per ann. 9d., 1 toft 2d. In Bolteby. One toft, and 2 oxgangs of land, red. p. ann. 16d. In eodem 1 toft, red. p. ann. 2d. and 2 hens. Seven acres of meadow in the field of Bolteby, valet. p. ann. 30s. One green hay and place of the Vicar’s mansion, valet. p. ann. 2s. That the master and brethren of St. John of Jerusalem, (who are rectors of the church), shall receive the rents of 12d. in one toft, and 3 acres of land, (which rent by right the Vicar ought to re- ceive). A certain piece of pasture called Crosboskes, containing 1 acre, which was wont to belong to the Vicar. The Vicar ought to receive the tithes of lamb and wool of the whole parish, worth per ann. 100s. The Quadragesimal Tithe, and the 3 annual oblations, worth p- ann. 0 mrs. The Tithe alibz, worth p. ann. 16s. The Tithes of hens, geese, and pigs, worth p. ann. 20s. The Tithes of line, hempe, and orchards, worth p. ann. 20s. The Tithe of calves, foals, and bees, valet. 6s. p. ann. The carucate pennies and silver of the holy bread, throughout all Sundays, val. p. ann. 13s. 9d. | | | 212 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The wax (candles) offered on the purification day of St. Mary, val. 2s. The minute offerings of marriages, churchings, and burials, val. p- ann. 10s. The Vicar ought'also to receive all other tithes whatsoever, (ex- cept the tithes of garbs and hay), which the masters and brethren are to receive as rectors. The Vicars are always (from the time of the ordination of the vicarage), bound to give the tithes of their garbs and hay. Hence the cum of the rents and profits of the Vicarage doe ex- tend to 20/. 3s. 2d., out of which the Vicars are bound to find a parochial priest in the church of St. Felix, and one Chappelaine in the Chapell of Bolteby ; and a third Chappelaine to celebrate three days in the week in the Chapell of Sutton-super-Whit- soncliff. : And the said master and bretheren, (who are rectors), ought to cover the whole chancel at their own cost. And the said Vicar is to find books, vestments, and other orna- ments of the chancel.” | In the valor of Pope Nicholas, this living is returned as worth 107. In the Nova Tax at 4/. ; and in the King’s Books, at 97. 8s. 6d. per ann.; Synodals and procurations 11s. 6d. Present net income 4501. April 28th, 1757, a faculty was granted to the parishioners to erect a gallery, and on the 15th of March, 1798, another was granted to re-pew the church and erect another gallery. The Register Books commence in 1598, but many entries are almost illegible. In this village is a neat building, erected by C. H. Elsley, Esq., in 1835, for a school. It is of red bricks, in the Tudor style, and bears the founder’s arms above the door, with the motto, Sans Dieu Rien. The township contains 1124 acres, and in 1851, 116 inhabitants, being a decrease of ten since the census of 1841. The amount of assessed property is 19741. FILISKIRK. S13 | This parish includes, besides the township of Filiskirk, with the mansion of Mount St. John, site of the ancient commandery of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and Marderby Grange, the townships of Thirlby, and Sutton-under-Whitstonecliff, and the chapelry of Boltby with Raventhorp. . a i F eR A A EN ey rn ee none neg tn nape ene 214 ae THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. MOUNT ST. JOHN. AsouT half a mile from the village of Filiskirk, and three and a half miles from the town of Thirsk, is Mount St. JoHN, a Mansion: on an ancient site belonging to the Archbishops of York, now occu- pied by John Horsfall, Esq. The situation is lofty and commanding, surrounded by fine groves of trees, possessed of much beauty and fertility ; yet it is chiefly noteworthy as the site of a commandery of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, from whom the name is derived. In the beginning of the reign of Henry I., William Percy, * the first called Algernon, gave to the knights Hospitallers, land hereabouts, to the amount of five knight’s fees, and thereupon a Preceptory of that order was established is dedicated to St. . Mary. t Robert, lord Ros of Helmsley, gave the manor of Mount St. John; and Roger de Mowbray, Adam Fossard, Sir William Cantlow, knight, Alice Gaunt, and Odo de Boltby, gave very many lands there. Baldwin Wake gave the manor of Kirby and the soke of Osyngwald. t The order of knights of St. John of J sea. or knights of the Hospital, as they were commonly called, took its rise and name from an Hospitium or Inn, built at Jerusalem for the use of Pil- grims resorting to the Holy Land, dedicated to St. John the * This William de.Percy came over with the Conqueror. He was nicknamed Alsgernons, from his enormous whiskers, which, since corrupted into Algernon, has been a favourite name with his posterity. He possessed large estates in Yorkshire. He founded, or rather re-founded the famous Abbey of St. Hilda at Whitby, and made his brother Serlo the first prior. He accompanied duke Robert in the first crusade, _A.D. 1096, and died at Mountjoy, near Jerusalem, the celebrated eminence whence the pilgrims of the cross first viewed the holy city. + Dugdale’s Mon. Ang., Vol. vi., p. 803, and Tanner’s Notitia, p. 645. + Torre’s MSS. FE ES SR NS EE EY ee Se et « ee MOUNT ST. JOHN. 215 Baptist. The first duty of these knights was to provide for such ‘pilgrims at that Hospital, and protect them from injuries and in- sults when on the road. They were first instituted about the year 1092, and were much favoured by Godfrey de Bouillon King of Jerusalem. They were divided into three classes—the Nobles, who followed the profession of arms against the infidels, and for the protection of pilgrims :—the Ecclesiastics, who exercised their religious functions for the benefit of the order:—and the Lay Brothers, whose duty it was to take care of the pilgrims and the sick. Their superior in England was the first lay baron, and had a seat among the lords in parliament. They chiefly followed the rule of St. Augustine, and Pope Honorius II1., assigned to them for their dress a black mantle with a white cross in the fore-part thereof. The rest of the dress con- sisted of a chapeau in the heraldic form, a surcoat, and mail and plated armour mixed, with a long sword, and a belt round the waist. They made vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience. To have nothing but bread, water, and clothes. To eat but twice a day, and on Wednesday and Sunday, and from Septuagesima to Easter, no flesh ; the infirm and sick excepted. The punishment of alterca- tion was seven days dining on the ground, without table, or cloth, and fasting Wednesday and Friday on bread and water. When any one wished to be admitted a knight, he was to come to the Chapter on a Sunday, ask the consent of the House, and on consent of the majority, be received; after certain exhortations and engagements, to take the missal in both his hands, make an oath, go to the church, lay the book upon the altar, and bring it back : the person who was to make him a knight, then to take the missal from him, and give him it back with a suitable prayer. Those who sought the fraternity only, to take an oath upon the missal, to promise to love the house and knights, to defend them with the utmost of their ability from all evil doers—defend the property of the house; and if not able to do this, make the evil known—to engage that, if they took any religious order it should be that—and if they died without, to be buried in their cemetery, 216 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. and make an annual present to the house. Upon this to receive the peace; and their names, and what they promised to givé annually, to be entered in the register.* When the knights Hospitallers were driven from the Holy Land, they settled at Rhodes, from whence they were denomi- nated knights of Rhodes. After the Turks took Rhodes, in 1552 the emperor Charles V. gave them the Isle of Malta, from whence they derived a new name. The first house built for this order in England, was in London, A.D. 1100. At the general dissolution of religious houses in England by Henry VIII., the whole of the possessions of this order were valued at 5394/. 6s. 52d. per annum. The houses of the Hospitallers were called Commandries, of which they had several on their different estates ; in each of which they had a society of their brethren placed to take care of their lands and rents in that neighbourhood. The respective comman- ders accounting to the order in general, for the overplus of the profits of their respective estates. At the general dissolution, 26th of Henry VIII., the possessions of this house were valued at 137/. 2s. gross, and 102. 13s. 9d. net, per annum. ‘Their possessions comprised lands in the township of Filiskirk, and in the parish of Cold Kirby; also the impropriation of the great tithes of the parish of Filiskirk. They had also lands in Thirlby, Marderby, Bagby, Boltby, and Kirby Knowle. The greatest part of their possessions were granted 34th Henry VIIL., to the Archbishop of York in exchange, and have ever since per- tained to that see. The house has been rebuilt, and few vestiges of its former state remain. Two shields carved in stone in the back wall, yet bear the Percy crescent ; probably coeval with the first foundation, and placed there in honour of the founder. There is a tradition that Sir Walter Raleigh resided here for some time during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, but this story we have not been able to authenticate. The mansion of Mount St. John with the lands around, and * Mon. Anglic., Vol. ii. p. 497. ——— nes tri ay a nate ee nett tC EE MOUNT ST. JOHN. SET other property in Filiskirk and Sutton, were formerly held on lease under the Archbishops of York, by a family of the name of Gregorie ; early in the seventeenth century the Turbutts* had possession of it; from whom the lease was purchased by the Rey. William Elsley, who built the present house about the year 1720. It has since been considerably enlarged and improved by the same family; who held possession of the domain until 1853, when Charles Heneage Elsley, Esq., agreed to sell all his interest therein to the Church Estate Commissioners for the use of the Archbishop of York, so properly speaking they may be said at present to be the owners of Mount St. John, and the leasehold estate in the neighbourhood. * The family of Turbutt is of very ancient standing in this county, and is traced in some pedigrees to the time of Richard I. Richard Turbutt, Fsq., of the city of York, living temp. Edward 1V. and Elizabeth, had two sons, of whom the elder William was registrar of the Consistory Court of York ; he died in 1648, and was buried in the church of St. Michael, Spurriergate, with the following inscription on his tomb. * Gulielmus Turbut, Arm. dum vixit doctissimus et fidissimus Eboracensis consis- torii registarius modernus, et dilectissimae custodiae spiritus sancti animam hujus sepulchram marmoream et proprium corpus tradit, et in pace tubo requiescant usque ad futuram gloriam repeterentur, obiit Nov. 16, 1648, tat sue 74. He devised estates at Ripon to the son of his brother, Richard Turbutt, Esq., who married and had two danghters and one son, William Turbutt, Esq., to whom his grand-uncle William, bequeathed the lease of the estate of Mount St. John, near Thirsk. He died 13th April, 1673, aged 26, and lies buried in Feliskirk church. (See ante). He was succeeded by William Turbutt, Esq., his eldest son, born in 1668, served the office of High Sheriff of Yorkshire in 1710. He married the only daughter and heiress of —— Driffield of Easingwold, by whom he had one son and six daughters. Richard Turbutt, Esq., succeeded to the estate of Mount St. John on his father’s death, 13th Sept., 1727. He was born in 1689, and Married Mary Anne, daughter and co-heir of John Revell, Esq., of Ogston in the county of Derby, where the family have since re- sided, by whom he had two sons who died young ; their mother died in 1724, and their father married secondly Francis Babbington, an heiress, by whom he had one son William, and three daughters. He died Sept. 3rd, 1758, aged 68, and was buried in Doncaster church, when William Turbutt, Esq., born in 1738, succeeded. He married in 1767, Elizabeth daughter and co-heiress of the Rev. Benjamin Burrow, rector of Merton, by whom he had William his heir, Richard Burrow, and four daughters. He died Aug. 23rd, 1817, aud was succeeded by William Turbutt, Esq., of Ogston Hall, Co. Derby, and Arnold’s Grove, Co. Notts., barrister-at-law, born May 4th, 1768, married June 22nd, 1814, Anne, daughter of General Gladwyn of Stubbing, by whom he had Giadwypn his heir, and four daughters. He died Dec. 25th, 1836, and was succeeded by his only son the present Giapwyn TurBuTT, Es@., of Ogston Hall, High Sheriff for the County of Derby in 1858. Arms. Quarterly Turbutt, Driffield, Babbington and Burrow. Crest, a naked arm dexter, holding a trident. ss te eee 218 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. MARDERBY GRANGE. MARDERBY GRANGE in the manor of Sutton, alas Marderby- under- Whitstonecliff, is part of the township of Filiskirk, situated a short distance south of Mount St. John. At the time of the Domesday Survey it was a distinct manor in the hands of Hugh the son of Baldric, and from its value at that time was probably of greater extent than at present. ‘Manor. In Martrebi, Gamel had three carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to one plough. Girard, a vassal of Hugh’s, has there one plough and seven villanes with four ploughs. There is a priest, and a wood without pasture, four quarentens long and four broad; value in king Edward’s time twenty-six shillings, now twenty shillings.” * One part of Marderby iibocerient yaaa part of the possessions of the Knights of St. John, and the remainder was given to the abbey of Byland, and formed a grange of that house. On the dis- solution of the monastic establishments the whole came into the hands of king Henry VIII., and were by him conveyed in 1542, along with other estates in this neighbourhood to Edmund Lee, Archbishop of York, in exchange; and belonged to that See, until the year 1853, when it came into the hands of the Church Estate Commissioners. Here is an old Hall, called Marderby Hall, which has been a substantial residence, but now only a farm house. What is now called Marderby Grange is quite modern. Sir Alan Chambre, who was made a judge of the Court of Com- mon Pleas in 1800, was possessed of the leasehold property in Marderby, and may have been born in Marderby Hall. * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 197. OO ee Se ae ee ee ee SUTTON-UNDER-WHITSTONECLIFF. 219 SUTTON-UNDER-WHITSTONECLIFF. THis village is very properly named, from its situation near the foot of the loftiest precipice of the Hambleton mountain range, and to distinguish it from a dozen villages of the same name in Yorkshire. It is a place of considerable antiquity, and appears to have been of more note formerly than at present. In Domesday it is entered as a distinct manor among the lands of Hugh the son of Baldric, though one carucate of it appears to have formed a berewic belonging to the manor of Bagby. “Manor. In Sudtune, Ligulf had five carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to two ploughs. Gerrard a vassal of Hugh’s has there one plough, and eight villanes with two ploughs. There is a priest and a mill. Wood pasture one mile and a half long _ and five quarentens broad. The whole manor two miles long and five quarentens broad. Value in king Edward’s time twenty- _ six shillings, now twenty shillings.” * We cannot but observe the great similarity in description and value, between this and the adjoining manor of Marderby; Girard, Hugh’s vassal, holds about the same number of villanes and ploughs in each place. There is also a priest on each manor, where, singular to relate, there is neither priest nor church now. Though Sutton is of greater extent, Marderby is of equal value. Sutton had the advantage of a mill at that time, which the waters of Aislebeck yet enable it to possess. Ligulf, was probably the Saxon owner before the Norman spoilers came. Part of this township afterwards came into possession of the monks of Byland and the canons of Mount Grace, while the lake Gormire, belonged to the convent of Newburgh, for the purpose of supplying the establishment with fish. On the dissolution of the monasteries the lake became the property of the Earls Fauconbergh, * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 197. te Reser ee en ee eee nner 220 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. who purchased a small farm adjoining; they now belong to Sir George Orby Wombwell, Bart. The remainder came into the hands of the king, and was by him conveyed to the see of York, in 1542, when the manors of Beverley, Southwell, &c., were ex- changed with the crown for the lands of divers dissolved religious houses. Since that time the greatest part of this township has been held on lease under the see of York. Sutton Hall was the seat of the family of Smyth before they obtained New Building. It is now held by the Rev. Charies Johnston, Canon of York Cathe- dral, and Vicar of Filiskirk. The Whitstonecliff with the wood below roe od down to Gormire lake, with some adjoining lands, properly called White- stone-cote,* are now the property of C. H. Elsley, Esq., and were purchased about forty years ago from the late Mrs. Lawrence of Studley Park. Those lands are extra-parochial, though generally supposed to be in the township of Sutton. There was formerly a Chapel of Ease in this village, for which the Vicar of Filiskirk was bound to find a chaplain to celebrate mass three times a week; the building was demolished before Archbishop Sharp’s time, A.D. 1691. The Independents have a chapel here, erected many years ago, at the expense of Mr. Squire of Osgodby. The Wesleyan Methodists have also a neat little sca built in 1850. Large quantities of lime have for a long time been burnt near this village; the stone is quarried from the eminence called Sutton-brow. The townships of Filiskirk, Sutton-under-Whitstonecliff, Kil- burn, and Marton Lordship, were formerly esteemed to be in the Liberty of Ripon ; but by an Act passed in 1837, (1 Vic., c. 53, s. 8), they are separated from that Liberty. The township contains 1827 acres of land; and in 1851, a pop- ulation of 376 souls. * Cote signifies a house for sheep: it also signifies a cave or hiding place, latibu- lum.—Spelman’s Glossary. BOLTBY. } 221 BOLTBY. BoLtBy, a chapelry and township in the parish of Filiskirk, five miles from Thirsk, is situated in a hollow among mountains, having the Hambleton range on the east, the huge bulk of Blackmoor on - the north, and the wooded eminence of Mount St. John on the south-west. Although a place of great antiquity, and deriving its name from some Danish settler, we know nothing of it previous to the Norman conquest. In Domesday it is recorded as the pro- perty of Hugh, the son of Baldric, and is thus noticed,— “ Manor. In Boltebi, Sumersul had three carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to one plough, Girard a vassal of Hugh’s, has there two ploughs, and five villanes with two ploughs, and six acres of meadow. Coppice wood five quarentens long and the same broad. Value in king Edward’s time twenty shillings, now 3? e “ Berewic. There is one carucate of land to be taxed in Raven- storp (Raventhorp), which belongs to Boltebi. There is land to half a plough. It is waste.” * This village subsequently became part of the possessions of a family who took their surname from it ; among whom was Odo de Boltby, who gave lands, and was otherwise a benefactor to the Commandery of Mount. St. John. He also gave lands in this township to the abbey of Rievaux. The foundations of a large _ building can yet be traced in the valley near the road leading over Hambleton, on the farm called Paradise. Tradition points to it as the spot where a hall or castle formerly stood. It may be the site of the manor house of the de Boltbys. * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 198. 222 _ THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The greatest part of this township, with that of Thirlby, be- longed to the Marquis of Granby. He devised them with other large estates, to his natural son W. Manners, Esq., of Goadby in Leicestershire; who left them to ten natural children, after the death of their mother, who went by the name of Mrs. Stafford. Upon her decease the estates in Yorkshire, Leicestershire, and Middlesex, were divided amongst the ten children. The Chapel of Ease situate in the middle of this village, was re- built in 1855, in the lancet style. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a bell gable at the west end. There is a burial ground attached to the present chapel, there was not to that lately pulled down; though there had been one at some former period, as large quantities of human bones were found on digging into the ground near the old chapel. The present is the third which has stood on this spot ; the first was founded in 1409; and a faculty was granted for rebuilding it, October 23rd, 1802. Thus the first building en- dured nearly 400 years, the second little more than fifty, the present may have a longer existence, as it appears a strong sub- stantial edifice. The weaving of linen was formerly carried on here to a con- siderable extent, but is now nearly discontinued, and the population has declined in consequence. The township contains 3834 acres of land, and in 1851, had 295 inhabitants, shewing a decrease in ten years of 98; in 1841, the population was returned at 393, and in 1821 at 403. The devisees of the late Edward Manners, Esq., pay 5/. a year for the teaching of five poor children. At Raventhorp was formerly a castle or manor house belonging to the noble family of De Roos, now converted into a mill. It is highly probable that the two figures in the chancel of Filiskirk church belonged to this family. What is now called Raventhorp is a modern house, and the proper name of the locality where it is placed is West-how. Thirlby, a small village and township in the parish of Filiskirk, does not call for any particular observations. ate eriagicg en tual > ss — NR KIRKBY KNOWLE. ‘f 223 KIRKBY KNOWLE. KIRKBY KNOWLE, is as the name imports, a church and village among the knowls or hills. It is situated about five miles north- east of Thirsk, in a low, warm valley, so enclosed by high lands, woods, and mountains, as to be invisible to the traveller until he is almost close upon it, and when viewed from the hills around, the valley appears more adapted for the bed of a lake than the site ofa village. The parish includes the townships of Kirkby Knowle, Balk, Islebeck, and Bagby, which three last form a chapelry, dis- tant seven miles from the parish church. In 1851, the population of the township of Kirkby Knowle was 129. At the time when Domesday Survey was made, this village ap- pears to have been only a berewick pertaining to the extensive manor of Bagby, containing three carucates of land, then the pro- _ perty of Hugh, the son of Baldric, and held by a tenant named Orm. It is somewhat difficult however to identify the many “ Churchbis,” or Kirkbys mentioned in that survey, as there are twenty two places in Yorkshire alone bearing that name, but this is sufficiently identified by its connection with Bagby. In 1217, this village was held by Hugo de Magneby, as is manifest from the following translation of a deed, now in possession of C. H. Elsley, Esq., the present owner of the whole township. * Know all men, as well present and future who shall see or _ read these letters, that Hugo de Magneby has demised and granted to Lady Gunnora of Kirby-under-Knoll, at the feast of St. Mark the Evangelist, next after the death of King John, (A.D. 1217), er eee nn 224 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. one crop of the land of the said Hugo, in the territory of Kirby- under-Knoll, which the said Gunnora and her men had sowed in that year, &c.,” (specifying the fields). “ But when the aforesaid Gunnora and her men shall have taken their crop for only one year from the aforesaid land: the same land shall revert to the aforesaid Hugo and his heirs, freed from and quit of the afore- named Gunnora and her heirs for ever.” * In 1277, the town of Kirkby-sub-Knowle, contained five carucates of land, whereof one carucate and two oxgangs were held of Roger de Lassells, who held the whole town of Hugh de Upsall, who held it of the heirs of Baldwin Wake, and they of Roger de Mow- bray, and he of the king in capite, by two shillings rent. The whole answering for the fourth part of a knight’s fee. The feudal vassals at this place formed a long chain from the wise and valiant Edward I., who was then king, to Roger de Lascells the fifth in the descending scale; and beneath him there was a lower deep still, in the yeomanry who were comparatively free, and the serfs of the soil who were slaves, and could be sold. like cattle. From the family of Lascells this township has passed through the hands of many illustrious owners of whom we purpose to speak when treating of the mansion of New Building. The CHURCH is a very small building, consisting of a nave and chancel, with porch and bell turret. The length is about sixty- six feet and the breadth twelve feet. Although the foundation is. of undoubted antiquity, the present structure does not contain much ancient work, the entrance from the porch into the nave ap- pears to be the oldest part; and the massive pointed arch between — the nave and the chancel indicative of the Early English style is of considerable antiquity, only one of the original windows remains, a very small opening to the north, the others are all insertions of a later date. The chancel has been rebuilt in modern times, and with modern taste. The interior is most interesting from the * This deed was published in Nichols’s Topographer and Genealogist, Vol.i., p. 216. Ai ene NNR met: a ot meen ee sma eR Re i Mt sc en dn as Sh sch >see te yi i se ns ee abe oe es ee. o— ee ge oe ee EEE EIEREEED AE nn aaa se Heel A Nee ne me an em 4 at Ne eee een KIRKBY KNOWLE. 3 225 many brasses and memorial tablets it contains. Ranged in a row in front of the altar rails are seven small brasses inscribed as below. ‘ Here lyeth the body of Mr. James Danby, who died the 16th of December, 1676,* in the 76th year of his age.”’ Memora pii A‘terna. ‘Here lyeth buryed the body of Mrs. Thomasine Danby, wife of Mr. James Danby, who died the 4th of Oct., 1678, in the — year of her age. ‘¢ The memory of the just shall be had in everlasting remembrance.”’ ‘« Here lieth Dame Ursula Rokeby, widow of Sir Thos Rokeby, Kt., formerly one of the Justices of the King’s Bench. She was daughter and coheir of James Danby, Esqre. She died 10th Aug., 1707, aged 74.” ‘‘Here lyeth Mrs. Milcah Rokeby, widow of Mr. Joseph Rokeby, Mercht and daughter and coheir of James Danby, Esq. She died Oct., —7 1726, aged 89.” ‘“‘ Here lyeth Joseph Rokeby, Esq., son of Mr. Joseph Rokeby, and Milcah his wife. He died 12th Aug., 1741, aged 64.”’ ‘« Here lieth Joseph Buxton, Esqre youngest son of John Buxton, Esqre and Elizth his wife, daur. of Mr. Joseph Rokeby and Milcah his wife. He died 12th Oct., 1766, aged 67.” t ‘* Here lieth Mrs. Elizth Buxton, widow of John Baxton Esqre and sister of Joseph Rokeby Esqre- She died , aged . § The brasses are very small, about six inches square, a little ornamented on the top, which bears the arms of the parties com- memorated, and supported beneath by a figure of acherub expanded. Against the north wall of the chancel are inscriptions on marble tablets, to the memory of different members of the ie family of New Building. _ ‘*In memory of Fras. Smyth, Esqre of New Building, F.A.S., born 5th June, 1737, died 14th April, 1809, and of Mary his wife, born 22nd Aug., 1741, died 29th Aug., 1824.”’ - Also of several of their offspring, most of whose remains lie interred near this spot with those of their honoured parents, viz. :— *¢ Samuel born 1767, died same day.” ‘« Sam! born 28th Jany,- 1770, died 26th May, 1770.” ‘* Ursula died 8th June, 1787.”’ “< Edwd died 2nd Oct., 1789.’’ * In the Parish Register, Mr. Danby’s death is entered as having happened March 3lst, 1677. ; + ‘1726, Mrs. Mileah Rokeby was buried Oct. 19th.’ + “1766, Oct. 17th, Joseph Buxton of Newbuilding, Esqre., was buried in the Quire within abt one yard of the South wall, at the end of the Minister’s Pew.” 3 “ Mrs. Buxton buried June 12th, 1721.”’ P sao eencomnerasetrss entens pnenesseniguamarusteneanee ati As EONS PN YS NNE Ger San = nts 6 nn amnangn nn = SuRerS snNaeeeeneceeneeeli TES te R A ; —— Se NO a NT rE eee ee rete — ere es 226 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. ‘¢ Fras Accountant General, Calcutta, born 18th Oct., 1767, died 3rd April, 1794.”’ ‘Thomas, M.D., born 31st Jany-, 1775, died 20th feo 1903..”’ ‘¢ Phoebe, born 13th March, 1765, died 4th May, 1808.”’ ‘¢ Joseph, A.B., eldest son, Vicar of Kirby Moorside, born 25th © March, 1766, died 25th March, 1826.’’ ‘¢ John Robt., A.B., Vicar of Startforth, born 30th Oct., 1780, died 19th June, 1826.”’ ‘‘ Those who sleep in Jesus will God bring with him.”’ ‘‘To the Pigmeony, - the Revd Francis Smyth, who died June 28th, 1842, aged 53 years.’ ‘‘ For if we believe that Jesus died and rose be even so them also which sleep in Jesus will God bring with him.—I. TuEss. iv., 14.” ‘Sacred to the memory of Lucy, daughter of the Rev4 Jos. Smyth, who died Sept. 19th, 1829, aged 23.” ‘¢T am the resurrection and the light.” _ On the south side of the chancel are the following inscriptions also belonging to the same family. ‘* Sacred to the memory of Edward Smyth, M.D., 4th son of the late Joseph Smyth, A.B., Vicar of Kirby Moorside in _ this county, born July 6th, 1798, died 19th May, 1826.” ‘* Also of Edward, son of the above Edward Smyth, who died on the 13th day of April, 1826, aged 2 years and 10 months.’’ Their mortal remains lie interred in the adjoining vault in the churchyard. ‘Harriet wife of the above Edwd Smyth, died on the 22nd day of July, 1830.”’ The other mural tablets in ie church are— “To the memory of Margaret Millar of Penningham, Wigtonshire, — Scotland, who died May 3rd, 1827, aged 89 years.’’ ‘Sacred to the memory of Harriett, daughter of Willoughby Bean, Esq. She died Nov. 4th, 1823, aged 21.” Vivens tum moriens semper cara. ‘‘Emily, daughter of Henry Haffey Bean of Fountains Hall, died at — Bath, Jany 9th, 1851, aged 42 years.’’ ‘¢ Samuel Walker, Esq., of Silton Hall, died Jany 30th, 1851, aged 71.” ‘‘To the memories of Mary, the wife of the Revd James Sergeantson, Rector of this parish: she died April 6th, 1842, aged 66, buried at Knotty Ash, near Liverpool.” ‘¢ James Hobson, their eldest son, major of the 50th regiment, died at Moulmein in the East Indies, Nov. 17th, 1841, aged 44.’’ © ‘¢ Mary Livesey, their eldest daughter, died in 1806, aged 12.” Og a a Ne RR | ED FN TI A AAR, ee ee eg i i a cent a ts tii tn ng eto kate i tn tn (cen descaling nc eee KIRKBY KNOWLE. | 927 ‘Catherine their sixth daughter, died an infant in 1810.”’ «« Susan their second daughter, died March 29th, 1818, aged 14.”’ ‘* Charles their fourth son, a lieutenant in the navy, died at Chatham, 1834, aged 31.” ‘‘ James Sergeantson, Rector of this parish 47 years, died Sept. 6th, 1842, aged 712’ Si Bene facit die Si non tace. ‘* Sacred to the memory of Edward Sergeantson, fourteen years Rector of this parish, who died Feb. 12th, 1857, aged 55 ; after long and severe suffering borne with the utmost patience and resignation. His memory will long live with those he loved on earth. This tablet is erected asa tribute of affection by his attached and afflicted wife.’ ‘¢ Blessed are the pure in heart for they shall see God.” The above are all the inscriptions inside the church. In the churchyard is the following on an altar tomb— ‘¢ Here lie the mortal remains of John Robert Smyth, A.M., Vicar of Startforth, born 30th October, 1780, died 19th June, 1826.’’ The following testamentary burials according to Torre’s MSS., have taken place here— | “1 Jan., A.D. 1538, Sir John Smith, parson of Kirkby Knole. “10 Dec., A.D. 1475, Tho. Marayon, Rector of Kyrkby-super- Knoll, buried in yé s¢ Ch. before the High Altar. “13 Noy., 1507, Wiliam Adamson, Rector of y® Ch. of Kyrkby Knole. “6 Junii, A.D. 1616, George Wells, Cl., parson of Kyrby Knoll, buried in the upper end of the chancel of y¢ p’ish Ch. of Kyrkby Knole, or where the Communion table stands.” In the churchyard, near the entrance of the porch are two antique crosses, consisting of upright shafts of stone, each inserted into a square block below.* ‘They are only a few feet distant from each other. The CuurcH of Kirkby Knowle is an ancient rectory. The former rectors had a vicar to serve the cure under them, who had sometimes for his perpetual vicarage the whole church itself, paying * <“Crosses were set up at the entrance of churches to inspire recollection and reverence.’ —Britton on Stone Crosses, p. 30. ** A form of benediction was provided for consecrating church yards, by erecting a cross in the centre, and four in the corners ; some churches had more than one in the churchyard.”—Gough’s Sepulchral Monuments, Introd., 177-236. ee . a 228 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. out of the same to the Rector the annual pension of ten marks. The patronage whereof has belonged to the Lassels of Kirkby Knowle and Escryke, and came from them to the Knevitts, and then to the constables of Kirkby Knowle, and lastly to the Frank- lands, Baronets of Thirkleby. The living is valued in the taxation of Pope Nicholas IV., at 16/. 13s. 4d., and in the Nova Taxatio at 8/. per ann. In the Liber Regis at 81. 2s. 1d. Synondals and procurations 11s. 6d. Val. in mans. cum gleb. eid. annex. 1. decim, &e. The following description of the rights of the Rector of this parish, is from a terrier dated June 27th, 1764. | The parish of Kirkby Knowle and Chapelry of Bagby, contain the Lordship of Kirkby and Thomas Nelson’s House and Garth, and fifty acres of land in Carleton Miniot,—The Lordship of Bagby, and Bagby Coat, the villages of Balk Ambo, and Islebeck Grange. There are some grounds in the township of Thirsk which pay tithes to the rector of Kirkby Knowle—one acre and three roods be- longing to Admiral ffrankland, and one other close containing about three acres belonging to Jane Johnson, spinster. In the town of Kirkby Knowle is the Parsonage House, and about thirty-nine acres of glebe land. The Lordship of Kirkby Knowle and the fifty-five acres in Carlton Miniott, pay all manner of tithes. The Rector repairs the roof and windows of the chancel, and the parish the rest of the church ; Kirkby Knowle and Carleton Miniott — paying two parts in five, and the inhabitants of the Chapelry Bagby paying three parts in five. In the town of Bagby is a house, a barn, and stable, both under the same roof, a small garden and.a little stripet of ground, about — the eighth part of an acre leading to the chapel yard which be- longs to the parsonage as well as the chapel yard. To the same parsonage also belongs an unstinted common of. pasture, both on Bagby High Moor and the Low Moor. ~All the lands in Bagby pay all manner of tythes in kind, except Bagby Coat, which pays no tyth, by reason it formerly belonged to one of the greater monasteries. Several closes called Hag Farm rn Arp I LT SF RA FE DS NES idl KIRKBY KNOWLE. 229 pay eightpence a year as a modus for hay tyth only, on Lamas day. Several other fields called Painot, pay twelvepence a year on Lamas day, as a modus for tyth hay only. A close called ffugill Syke pays ninepence a year, as a modus for hay tyth. West Balk pays 5s. yearly, on the 7th of July, as a modus in lieu of all tyth both for West Balk and East Balk. Islebeck Grange pays 13s. 4d. yearly, on St. James’ day, in lieu of all tyth. There is also a halfpenny a cow paid as a modus for tyth milk, but calves are paid in kind, half a calf in five, and a whole one in six. Lambs are tythable on the 24th of June. Hay is tythablein cock. Corn in stook. Sevenpence is paid for a churching, 14d. for a funeral, 2s. 6d. for a marriage by banns, ds. by licence. 2d. for a foal. The Chapel, with the fence round the chapel yard, are repaired by the inhabitants of the said chapelry. The document next gives the names and quantities of the closes in Carlton Miniott subject to tithe, and concludes with the names of John Wind the rector, the churchwardens, and the principal inhabitants of the parish and chapelry. The township of Kirkby Knowle according to the tithe com- mutation award, confirmed Feb. 28th, 1839, contains 1556 acres, 2 roods, 17 perches of land, the whole of which is subject to all manner of tithes ; in the following state of cultivation— _ a. TF. Be Arable Land 3 a2 a BD ny Weel cee | Meadow and Pasture iced de re oe «. 939 0 15 Woodland . os a ah oi a 159° 2°33 Common Land we ae ae os Janek) @. tem Glebe belonging to the Bastar as we oe 53 2 17 Total Se ae ee Pe ra eee The annual tithe rent charge was 189/., of which sum 180/. is to be apportioned amongst all the lands of the said township, except _ the glebe, on which the remaining 9/. are laid. Present net value 415/. per annum. The following staloeens of the rectors of this parish, is partly from Torre’s MSS., and partly from the parish registers. ‘15 Kal. Maij, 1231. Dom. Joh. de Barton. 10 Kal. April, 1299. Dom. Rob. de Fulston. Pat. Roger de Lassels, Kt. rr NA i Rr - P er e N ° 230 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. 3 Non. Oct., 1330. Dom. Rob. de Bowes. 10 Junij, 1332. Dom. John Sleight. 3 Junij, 1347, Dom. Will. fil. Joh’es Jakson de Ellerton Cap. 3 Sept., 1349. Dom. Walter de Witton Cl. 18 Nov., 1349. Dom. Rob. de Bradford. 1 Mar., 1359. Dom. Tho. Escryks Cap. 1 Maij, 1365. Dom. Joh. de Thornbergh. 2 Nov., 1382. Dom. Ric. de Thornton Pbr. Pat, Rod. de Lassells de Escryke. 15 Dec., 1385. Dom. Ric. de Scardburgh Pbr. ——_——__ ————— —_ ———_ Reginald de Selby Pbr. 28 Dec., 1420. Dom. Will. Caleys Pbr. 10 Junij, 1429. Dom. Will. Baty Cap. 10 Jan., 1430. Dom. Will. Hebson Pbr. 12 Oct., 1433. Dom. Rod. Whitfield, vel Whitehed. Pat. Reg. Lassels de Hornby. : 19 Decem., 1436. Dom. Rob. Rarys. 14 Decem., 1438. Dom. Tho. Marayon. Pat. Joh. Lassels. 23 Decem., 1476, Dom. Will. Adynson, vel Adamson. Pat. Tho. Middleton. 3 Sep., 1506. Dom. Joh. Smith Cl. Pat. Guardians of Johan Pykering, 1 Junij, 1539. Dom. Joh. Darley Pbr. Pat. Dom. Hen. Knivet, Mil. —-—— Dom. Joh. Knaysbrough. 13 Dec., 1575. George Welles Cl. Pat. Dom. Johe’s Constable, Mil. 13 July, 1615. Joseph Moore Cl. Joh. Constable de K. Knowle. oe iaiieneeemme Jac. Williamson Cl. 29 Sep., 1673. Guil. Frankland Cl. Franklands first presented, and ever since 1731. John Wind. 1737. John Clarke. 1738. John Wind. 1792. Roger Frankland. 1797, James Sergeantson, M.A. 1843. Edward Sergeantson, M.A. 1857. Lewis Stanhope Kenny, M.A., present Rector. The Register Books commence—Baptisms in 1642; Marriages and Burials in 1680. It is likely that some earlier books are lost: tradition speaks of a fire at some remote period in the church or rectory, in which they might be consumed. The books are in a fair state of preservation ; during the time the Rev. George Foster was curate, they are most exact and elegant. Some of the earliest entries in the first book must have been copied from other docu- ments, as the last page bears the following memorandum :—“ 1633, Thomas Danby boughe this booke and it coste two shilling eight- pence, besides the covering and it coste tenpence.” There have been no baptisms in the church during the years 1754, 1764, and 1767; and no burials in 1774, 1800, and 1802. The lands of this township are charged with the payment of 5/. annually, for ever, devised by the late Francis Smyth, Esq., of ST Ol a eee a ne eee a a Ree me Se eS ee ee he ER KIRKBY KNOWLE. 231 New Building, for the free education of five poor boys belonging to the said township. There is no school house at present in Kirkby Knowle, but the children are taught in the school of a neighbouring village, in either that at Kepwick or Filiskirk. In the winter of 1799, a considerable landslip took place a short distance east of this village, the land rising with a steep ascent to the moor above, the lower and softer strata appears to have become surcharged with water, and at length gave way beneath the super- incumbent weight, rushed down the slope towards the village, bearing with it a vast mass of earth and rocks. The quantity of surface displaced by this movement appears to have been con- siderably over twenty acres ; its extent may be easily traced by the rough waves, hills, and hollows, into which the land has subsided. The precipice above where the rocks are left bare is about sixty yards in height, by one hundred in length. Below the rough debris of the naked scar, about the middle of the displaced ground, is a gloomy looking pond filled with black water, occupying about three roods of land and shaded with trees: it appears of great depth. To the southward of the large pond are two or three ugly looking holes, which appear to have been formed at the same time. The whole of the ground which has slipped down is now planted with trees. Many similar landslips, though on a minor scale have taken place from the same hill, on the right of the narrow valley called Ingdell, through which the road passes from Kirkby Knowle to Cowsby, as can be plainly seen by the waves of land near the base of the hill. The family of Ella,—said to be descended from Ella, one of the sons of the “ flame bearing” Ida, who was king of Deira one of the sister states of Northumberland in the sixth century, whose posterity were princes and nobles in the land, and gave name to the villages of Kirk Ella and East Ella, near the Humber, where they had their chief dwelling,—in very early times settled in the Vale of Mowbray, where they appear to have been numerous and wealthy ; in Upsall we find Ella-beck and Ella-carr, named from this family. Many traditionary stories are related of their devoted Zon THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. loyalty and bravery during the civil wars of the 17th century, when they fought for the king and were reduced to beggary by the triumph of the Cromwellian party. Afterwards they became yeomen and humble tillers of the soil. We find them settled in the parishes of Cowsby, Leake, South Kilvington, Bagby, and Thirsk, as well asin this parish (Kirby Knowle). Here resided early in the last century Michael Ella and Ursula his wife, who were the parents of ten children, three sons and seven daughters, of whom John the youngest son, was grandfather of Ella * the well known professor of music; member of the Philharmonic Academy of Rome, and founder and director of the London Mu- sical Union; one of the most useful and prosperous institutions of the kind in the metropolis, for the cultivation of Chamber Classical Music. This society was organized in 1844, when the number of members were 150; in 1858, the number had increased to 500, including many of the nobility and some of the choicest names in science and art. This Union and the anaiytical programmes edited by Ella, * The line of descent, derived from parochial registers and other authentic sources is as follows :— Michael Ella of Kirkby Knowle, died Nov., 1784, aged 77. Ursula his wife, died at Thirsk, Nov., 1799, aged 90. Michael Ella their eldest son, born in 1730, settled in Leicestershire, where he died, and was buried at All Saints Church, Loughborough, Sept. 10, 1799. He had three sons, James the eldest, who by marriage and inheritance became a “ goodly Squire,’ and lord of the manor of Wimeswould. He was renowned as a fine specimen of a gentleman sportsman. John a captain in the army, and Samuel a merchant. James Ella was succeeded by his son William, the present lord of the manor of Wimeswould. James, the second son of Michael and Ursula Ella, died at Kirkby Knowle, June, 1743, aged 4 years. John the youngest son, resided sometime in the neighbourhood of Thirsk. He was a civil engineer, and assisted in the formation of the Midland Canal—he also settled in Leicestershire, and was buried at All Saints church Loughborough, Aug, 16, 1799. He, his brother, and mother all dying in the space of four months in one year. He had ason Richard, born at Thirsk, May Ist, 1769, who was father of Hila the artist, founder of the “ London Musical Union.” Sarah, seventh daughter, and youngest child of Michael Ella (never married) died at Kirkby Knowle, and was buried there Dec. 28th, 1836, aged 82 years. Arms of Ella.—In 1638, the family bore sable a fess dancettee or in chief three fleurs de lis argent. In Burke’s General Armory we find “ Ella per saltier or and gules four crescents counterchanged.”’ Crest—modern, probably assumed, a lion rampant—Motto—“ Jyst sam foyle.”’ a a ——$ KIRKBY KNOWLE. 288 annually published in a record of its proceedings, have received the highest eulogiums from musical critics both English and Foreign. Like every artist of distinction E//a has won his way to fame by talent joined to industry and perseverance, as is mani- fest from the following published summary of his career. “ Quill- driving in a lawyer's office, a dreary prospect for a person of artistic temperament, soon drove Ella to woo the muses, and at the age of seventeen-this embryo lawyer was a member of both the learned and polite professions, being amateur, lawyer, and artist within the space of three months. Ella is a pupil of Femy on the violin, of Attwood in harmony, and of Fetis in counterpoint; he has also been constantly employed in translating and adapting Italian, French, and German operas for the private performances of amateur societies. Llla’s contributions to various publications are distinguished for sound judgment; the early numbers of the ‘Musical World’ contain many articles from his pen—of which at one time he was musical editor, as well as the ‘ Atheneum,’ and other periodicals of high standing.” After remaining twenty- five years a member of the Italian Opera Band, Ella retired to de- vote his time entirely to the advancement of the Institution over which he now presides, with so much credit to himself and advan- tage to the Musical Art in England. aaa a EE 234 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. NEW BUILDING. PROUDLY on an isolated knoll, surrounded by green fields and lofty plantations, in one of the most lovely and picturesque spots in Yorkshire, stands the mansion of NEw BUILDING. Though called “‘ New,” it is of considerable antiquity, and was formerly styled Kirby Knowle Castle. , : In the year 1085, when the Domesday Survey was made, this — place, with the whole township of Kirkby Knowle, appears to have been a berewick of the manor of Bagby. Shortly after that period it was included in the immense fee of Robert de Mowbray, earl of Northumberland, who held it of the king in capite. The subinfeudatories, at different times were Baldwin Wake, Hugh de Upsall, and subsequently the family of Lascelles. The first we find recorded of this name is Picotus de Lascelles who came over with the conqueror, in the train of his nephew Alan, earl of Richmond, and who, as the reward of his services, received the lordship of Scruton in the North-Riding. He had a son named Roger. To Roger succeeded another Picotus, who was possessed. of lands in this parish. He was living 26th of Stephen (1141). Sir Roger de Lascelles of Kirkby-under-Knoll, was a person of great eminence, and in high favour with king Edward I. Dug- dale* speaks of him in the following manner :—“ Of this ancient family seated in the county of York, were divers persons of great note many ages since, but of those the chief whereof I find mention, * Baronage, Vol. ii. p. 6, RR LT TT A NA eA RAN | te ea a te A ES NEW BUILDING. 235 was Roger de Lascels, who in 22nd of Edward I., in order to that great expedition intended into France, had summons to attend the king and advise touching the most important affairs of the realm. The like summons he had also in 23rd and 24th of Edward I. to the several Parliaments then held: but never after, nor any of his posterity ; for which respect, I shall not take any further notice of them.” j In a copy of a record of a Verdict and Judgment, 52nd of Henry III. (1268) before the Justices Itinerant in Yorkshire, wherein Roger son of Isolde was plaintiff, and Roger de Lascelles son of Picote de Lascelles, defendant. By which plaintiff claimed com- mon of pasture for all cattle on Knayveton Moor, which contained 100 acres, which belonged to his freehold in Braythwath, of which said Picot, whose heir Roger de Lascelles was, had unjustly dis- seised him. To which Roger de Lascelles pleaded, that the said pasture was not in Knayveton, but in Kirkby Knowle.* The verdict is that 50 acres of said pasture was in Knayveton and the rest in Kirkby Knowle. And judgment is entered accordingly. From a copy of a record de Jurata et Assists for Yorkshire, 7, 8, and 9 Edward I., A.D. 1279, it appears the sheriff was com- manded to take with him twelve discreet and lawful knights of his county, and go to the land of the Bishop of Durham in Knay- ton, and the land of Roger de Lascells in Kirkby Knowle, and to set out by metes and bounds the said respective lands. And ac- cordingly on St. Paul’s day, in the 8th year of the said king’s reign, the sheriff and jury proceeded to the said lands at a certain place called Ulnesmote,+ and set out the following metes and * By a deed dated 20th October, 1260, William Fitz John Fitz-Alexander of Kirby Knowle, conveyed to Simon Bullock of Halsham, a messuage, four oxgangs of land with the appurtenances in Kirby Knowle, with common and pasture in Kirby Knowle, viz. :—By a marked dike or ditch, and from the end thereof directly to the pasture of Knayton, and from thence to Seathold, &c. 7 This singular word, now corrupted into Woolmoor, is full of meaning, and be- longs to a very early period of English history. It is derived from the Scandinavian word “ Ulloh””—wool—the present Danish word for wool is “‘ uld,’’—and “ mote,” Scand.—* meeting ’—the Danish word is yet “‘ méde,”’ and the Swedish ‘‘ mite 7’ — that is the wool meeting or market. It may also refer to the great meeting at the time of sheep shearing, which was held as a festival by all the early pastoral nations- Here also was probably held the district or wapontake court, or ‘‘ law meeting of the Scandinavian inhabitants,’ where ‘‘the Law saying man,” sat and the ‘‘ dooms ee en Oe “256 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. divisions.—Incipiendo int predictas terras versus Occidentum ad divisam que est inter terram p’d’c’i Epi & terram Galfridi de Upsale, que divisa vocatur Brounemordikes, & inde descendendo linealiter versus Orientum usque ad quondam locum qui vocatur est Nobbe. Etabillolinealiter extendendo versus Austram usque ad locum qui vocatur Blyndkeld. Et sic descendendo per le Blynd- keld Sike per medde le dede Quenshaw usque ad le overhend de Duneshold Sike, sicut mete et divise de nove facte apparent, Postea, &e.* On the authority of a MS. in the Library of Ripon Minster, shewn by the late Dean Waddilove to the Rev. Mr. Elsley, it appears that Sir Roger de Lascells built a castle here, which was called Kirkby Knowle Castle ; and from the remains of the ancient fabric yet existing in the present mansion, we Boa safely refer the foundation to this period. Sir Roger died in 1297, leaving four daughters coheiresses.— Matilda, who married for her second husband Sir Robert de Tilliol about the 21st of Edward I., A.D. 1292. After his death, on St. George’s day, 17th of Edward II., A.D. 1824, she conveyed her share (or fourth part) of the manor of Kirkby Knoll to Sir Robert le Constable and Avicia his wife, which Avicia was another daughter of Sir Roger de Lascelles. Elizabeth de Burgo granted another fourth part to the same Robert le Constable and his wife, mea,” executed his judgments on the malefactors of the district; while sacrifices were offered to Odin in the “high hall” adjoining at Upsall. The level area on the top of this hill was also a most appropriate place for the annual fair, where nobles and tradesmen alike attended from all the country round about. In the ‘‘ Illustrated London News ”’ of May 2nd, 1857, is an article in reply toa query respecting the derivation of this word. ‘* Ulnesmote. A question is asked in your paper of April 11th, respecting the deri- vation of the term Ulnesmote, now transformed into Woolmote. The signification of both is the same. The old term for wool was uloh. In the Frisian, which the English language so much resembles it is ulle. In Psalm CXLVII., 5, we have “‘ Se seld snaw swa swa wulle. (Who giveth snow like wool). Se weg wulles (A wey of wool). Ulnesmote probably, therefore, must have signified a wool mart, or wool meeting, the spelling having undergone gradual transformation.”? H. * Brownemordikes, now called the dry or double dikes, are a work of considerable antiquity, forming a parallel line for some distance, and in one part of their course the boundary between the lordships of Upsall and Knayton, and for the remainder of their course between those of Knayton and Kirby Knowle. This boundary has been a subject of dispute and litigation between the lords of Kirby Knowle, and the copy holders of the Bishop of Durham at Knayton for 500 years. nS See NEW BUILDING. . 237 in the 3rd year of Edward III., and John Bardolph and his wife Elizabeth conveyed another fourth part to the widow Avicia, in the 13th of Edward III., A.D. 1388. So that Avicia Constable had one fourth of the manor of Kirkby Knowle in her own right; one fourth from Matilda de Tilliol: one fourth from Elizabeth de Burgo, and one fourth from Elizabeth Bardolf. So the whole manor passed from the family of Lascelles into that of Constable.* This Sir Robert le Constable was the eighth in descent from the Constable who came over with the Conqueror, whose name appears in the roll of Battle Abbey. Their first settlement in Yorkshire was at “Emeburgh de Burton,” + a name which has now yielded to that of Burton Constable in the East-Riding of the county. By an Indenture dated Nov. 18th, of Edward III., (1845) John of Kilvington keeper of the lands which belonged to the king’s ene- mies, between the Ouse and the Tees, demised all the king’s lands at Kirkby Knowle, to Sir Robert le Constable, to hold during the king’s pleasure, at the yearly rent of 44s. From whom descended, Sir John Constable of Kirkby Knowle, who married first, Margaret daughter of John Lord Scrope of Bolton Castle, and had issue Henry, John, and Ralph, who died young, and Joseph, sur- named of Upsall; which castle and estate at this time, came into possession of the family of Constable. Sir John married secondly, Elizabeth, (some say Catherine), daughter of Henry Neville, fifth earl of Westmorland, by whom he had one son. In 1559, he had the Seigniory, liberty, and honour of Holderness, granted to him by his father-in-law. He resided at Kirkby Knowle, and by his will, dated “the thirteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord God one thousand five hundred three score and nine,” he orders his body to be buried in the parish church of Wassand in Holderness. Among other bequests is the following :—“I give and bequeath unto my well beloved wife (Elizabeth) all my household stuffe which shall be in my dwelling house at Kirkby Knowle at the time of my decease (all my plate onlye excepted). As for my niece Johan Constable, my will and meaning is that she shallbe * The family of Lascells bore 4rgent, three Chaplets gules. + Poulson’s Antiquities of Holderness, Vol. ii., p. 238. en ee a SS SL Sa __ SS Neeee eee er Ce a ee 238 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. maryed unto John Eastoft my ward, and that the said marriage shall be in full satisfaction and contenta’n of the fower hundred marks I stand bounde in the church of Yorke to pay hy*-” In a codicil, among other things he gives to John Manners his best horse, and to the right Honble. the Earl of Rutland his best hawkes. About the year 1568, an accidental fire broke out in the Castle, and destroyed the greatest part of it, of the four towers of which it previously consisted, only one was left entire. Tradition says, that part of the house was hastily pulled down to save the re- mainder, and that the space where the bowling green now is, was formerly occupied by parts of the mansion; which at that time fronted eastward: and that the grass field now on that side, was part of the gardens, and called by the old inhabitants up to a very recent period “ My Lady’s Vineyard.” The hill behind the house was then an open sheep walk, and the green below was full of large forest trees. | Sir John began the reparation of his ruined mansion, but did not live to complete it. He was succeeded in his possessions by his son, a ie Sir Henry Constable, who married Margaret daughter of Sir William Dormer of Ethorp in Buckinghamshire, sister of the first lord Dormer, by whom he had one son and four daughters. By an Indenture of fine, dated 32nd Elizabeth, 1590, we learn that he was owner of the manor of Kirkby Knowle, and of a water corn mill there.* John Constable, Esq., was the next owner of Kirby Knowle. He was born in 1583, and married Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph Creswell, of Nunkeeling and Doddington, Esquire. He had two sons and two daughters, although in subsequent documents we only find the two daughters mentioned. In 1635, John Constable was a popish recusant, and by an In- denture made in that year, it was agreed that no advantage should be taken of his recusancy. * For a minute survey and valuation of the manor of Kirkby Knowle at this period, see Appendix No, III. | i i rr rt ee et nt te NEW BUILDING. } 239 On the 11th of July, 1653, a receipt was given for a fine, laid on the estates of John Constable, and 16th of the same month it appears the sequestration was taken off in favour of his co-hevresses. - On the 11th of February, 1653, James Danby, then of York, gentleman, purchased the manor of Kirkby Knowle, and the mansion of New Building from the heiresses of John Constable, Esq. In 1658, a Quietus was issued to Mr. James Danby on account of Constable’s recusancy. The mansion when purchased by Danby, was in a ruinous and dilapidated state: he repaired the old parts, and built the south front and western wing, and when completed gave it the name of New Building. Tradition reports that he employed the stones of the adjoining castle of Upsall in building the mansion, but this is hardly probable, as the fine bed of freestone behind the house, which has been extensively quarried, and is well adapted for building purposes, was of much easier access, than even the ready hewn stones of Upsall Castle. Danby appears to have imbibed a little of the puritanical spirit of the age; an instance of which is given in the names of his two daughters, Ursula and Milcah. Danby died December 16th, 1676, and was buried in the church of Kirby Knowle. His wife, whose name was Thomasine, survived him two years, and died October 4th, 1678.* Leaving no male issue, the manor of Kirkby Knowle passed to his two daughters, Ursula, who was married to Sir Thomas Rokeby, Knight, one of the Justices of the King’s Bench; and Mileah, who was married to her sister’s husband’s brother, Mr. Joseph Rokeby, merchant. Few families in Yorkshire have won for themselves more honourable distinction than that of Rokeby ; for from the first year of Edward III. to the time of which we treat they had held high offices both in church and state, with credit to themselves and honour to their country. — * “Mrs. Thomasin Danby, buried Oct. 6th, 1678. No affidavit was brought to me that she was buried according to yé late act, entitled a Acte for berrying in Woollen. And ye Minister of ye parish of Kyrby Knowl did notify the same to the overseers of the said parish, the 15th of 8’ber, 1678.”—Kirkby Knowle Parish Register, | 240 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The Sir Thomas Rokeby who resided here, was the second son of Thomas Rokeby, Esq. of Barnby, (slain at Dunbar in 1650), by his wife Elizabeth, sister of Sir William Bury, of Grantham in Lincolnshire. He was sometime fellow of Catherine Hall, Cam- bridge, and afterwards of Grey’s Inn, and subsequently became as already related a judge of the court of King’s Bench.* He was in high favour with King William III. and Queen Mary, from whom he received many tokens of esteem, one of which was a present of their portraits, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller. He | left no issue. There is a sumptuous monument to his memory in the chapel of Archbishop Rokeby, in Sandal Church, Lady Ursula Rokeby his widow, died August 10th, 1707, aged 74, and was buried in the church of Kirkby Knowle. | : New Building was next occupied by Joseph Rokeby, Esq. and his wife, and the whole estate came into their possession, | which before they had held jointly with their elder brother and sister. They had two daughters, Elizabeth married to Joseph | Buxton, Esq., and Dorothy married to James Wyndlow, Esq. of York, and one son, Joseph, who subsequently inherited New Building. Milcah Rokeby was a very learned lady, mistress of many languages, and read the scriptures in the original tongues. Many pieces of her writing were preserved in the library at New Building, in which she handled abstruse and metaphysical subjects with the greatest ease ; and though living to extreme old age, she was able * In Camden’s Britannia, we have the following brief notice of New Building; after speaking of Filiskirk, he says, ‘‘ Near this place, a little northward, is Kirkby Knoll, or Kirkby under Knoll. On the hill stood once a noble house of Roger de Lascelles, This came by marriage to the Constables of Halsham in Holderness. It was the seat of Judge Rokeby, who finding the house much out of repair, took part of it down, and rebuilt it in the modern taste, and called it New Bigging, afterwards called New Building. It is pleasantly situated on the side of a hill, and overlooks the country as far as York, which is thirty miles distant. It is now the seat of Francis Smyth, Esq.» F.A.S.”’—Vol. iii., p. 84. The statement made in the above quotation that the mansion was partly rebuilt by Judge Rokeby, is contradicted by an account of New Building, drawn up by the late Francis Smyth, Esq., an antiquary, owner of and resident at New Building, which is now before us, in which he positively states that the house was rebuilt by Mr. James Danby, and then first called New Building. er ne a eee NEW BUILDING. | 241 to hem cambric and read without spectacles to the end of her life. She died in October, 1726, aged 89. Her husband died about ten years before her. On her decease, Joseph Rokeby, Esq., her son and heir entered into possession, in whom vested the representation of the family until August 12th, 1741, when he died at the age of 64. He was buried in the church of Kirkby Knowle. He repaired and altered the mansion in.modern taste by destroying the fine old mullioned windows in the south front, and inserting the present sashes in their place. He also began the formation of the bowling green in front. | Dying unmarried, the mansion and estate came to his nephew, Joseph Buxton, Esq., son of his sister Elizabeth, and Dorothy his sister ; but having by will devised one half of the estate to his said nephew, he became in consequence possessed of three-fourths of the whole. The bowling green was completed, and the present stables built by Mr. Buxton; who resided here with his sister Ursula, who afterwards married the Rev. Mr. Oakley,* rector of Sigston. He was never married, and on his decease in 1766, the mansion and estate came into possession of Francis Smyth, Esq., son of his _sister. Three-fourths of it had been settled on Mr. Smyth on his marriage in 1762; and on April 20th, 1766, he purchased the other fourth part of the co-heiresses of Mrs. Wyndlow. Francis Smyth, Esq.,f was the only son of Francis Smyth of Crosby Temple, in Essex and Sutton Hall, near Thirsk, by his wife Phebe Buxton. He was born on Sunday, June Sth, 1737, in the city of York, re- ceived his school education at Wakefield, and was afterwards entered of Peterhouse College, Cambridge. He was married * “The Rey. Mr. Okeley and Madame Buxton, were married by a Licence, Dec. 8, (1743.°—Kirkby Knowle Par. Reg. + The family of Smyth of New Building, is lineally descended from Sir Michael Carrington, standard bearer to Richard I., in his expedition into the Holy Land The name was changed by John Carrington, Esq. ; who being forced to flee from England _ for his loyalty to Richard II., to whom he was standard bearer; resided many years in Italy; on his return to England he took the name of Smyth, and died 24th of Henry VI., 1446. The family first settled in Yorkshire about the beginning of the 7th century. Q ee a eS ee i Se Se A I i a Se EE )-- ¢ i THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. October 26th, 1762, at the parish church of St. Martin’s-in-the- Fields, Westminster, to Miss Mary Plumer. They resided at New Building, and had a numerous family. Mr. Smyth was a F.A.S., and deeply read in the antiquities of this county; his favourite amusement was drawing pedigrees, in which he displayed great patience and research. He improved the estate by enclosing and cultivating the moorland district on the north of the mansion and by extensive plantations. On his death, April 14th, 1809, the whole became vested in his widow, Mrs. Mary Smyth, who died August 29th, 1824. By her will the mansion of New Building and the manor of Kirkby Knowle, were devised to trustees for sale. Pursuant to this trust in the year 1827, it was sold, with the consent of the Rev. Joseph Smyth, then vicar of Kirby Moor- side, (who was beneficially interested in the principal part of the proceeds), to Colonel Gregory Elsley of Mount St. John. This last named gentleman, however, never resided at New Building, but let it to the family of Smyth, who continued the occupation of their old ancestral home, until the elder branches of the family be- cameextinct. Mrs. Elizabeth Ann, who was never married, was lady of the household until her death at Tynemouth Cottage, Northum- berland, where she had gone for the benefit of her health, Dec. 16th, 1853, at the mature age of 80. Mrs. Dalton her surviving sister, kept up the hospitality of the mansion until her decease, July 16th, 1856, at the age of 79; when the name and family of Smyth ceased to exist at New Building. These venerable ladies “with hand open as day for melting charity” best loved the fashions of their youth, and the hospitality of former days was practised by them in the antique mansion. As already stated, New Building and Kirkby Knowle came — into possession of the family of Elsley in 1827. This family is of considerable antiquity in Yorkshire, and appear to have been long settled at the village of Aldfield, near Studley Park, about three miles from Ripon. They had possessions in Bewerley in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, which were sold to the Yorkes of that place about the year 1770. They were also possessed of the manor of Kirkby Malzeard, which they gave to the Rt. Hon. John NEW BUILDING. | 243 Aislabie of South Sea celebrity, in exchange for a farm in Thirlby adjoining Mount St. John, in the early part of the last century. Charles Elsley of Aldfield, was summoned to the Herald’s Visi- tation in 1668. Samuel his son, had property at North Closes, in the parish of Kirkby Malzeard, where his brother Gregory founded the Gram- mar School. Samuel afterwards purchased an estate at Patrick Brompton, which is yet possessed by the family. He had two sons, Gregory the younger, married Miss Danson, daughter and co- heiress of Lawrence Danson, Esq. of Hartwith-cum-Winsley, and he and his descendants enjoyed the estate of Patrick Brompton, along with others in Wensleydale. Charles Elsley his son, married Elizabeth, daughter of the Rev. Heneage. Dering, L.L.D., Dean of Ripon, of the Norfolk branch of the very ancient family of Dering, “one of the very few houses still existing in England of undoubted Saxon origin, and sazd to be descended in a direct line from Ethelward King of Deira.” * Dr. Dering had married Elizabeth, daughter of John Sharpe, Archbishop of York, whose wife was Miss Palmer of Winthorp, ‘Lincolnshire ; the grandson of the Ar gia was the well known and esteemed Granville Sharpe. Charles Elsley had two sons; Gregory who continued to reside at Patrick Brompton, till his death at an advanced age in 1823, and Heneage, who took his degree of A.B. at Peterhouse, Cam- bridge, in 1768, and afterwards succeeded his uncle, the Rev. Gregory Elsley in the Vicarage of Burneston, near Bedale, of which he was Vicar till his death in 1833. The eldest son of the above named Samuel, was the Rev. William Elsley, Subdean of Ripon, Prebendary of York, and Rector of Ryther-cum-Ossendike. He purchased the lease of the Commandery of Mount St. John, and built the present mansion house there about the ycar 1720, which has since been enlarged and improved by the Elsley family. He married Miss Tancred of Arden Hall, and left a son * Burke’s Peerage and Baronetage. 944 — THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Gregory, who married Miss Froggatt of Kirk Deighton, and’ died in 1780, without issue; having devised his estates to the Rev. Heneage Elsley,* Vicar of Burneston ; whose eldest son Col. Gregory Elsley, purchased as already mentioned, New Building and Kirkby Knowle, from the trustees of the Smyth family. He died in 1828, having devised his lately purchased estates to his father. Upon the death of the latter, the estates of the Elsley family centered in Charles Heneage Elsley, M.A., of Peterhouse, Cambridge, Recorder of York and Richmond, Clerk of the Peace for the West-Riding of Yorkshire, and late Judge of County Courts: he married Mary Emily, daughter of Col. Hall of Acomb, who was the son of General Hall of the Plantation, near Guis- borough, first cousin of Henry, 2nd Earl of Harewood, and brother- in-law of Lawrence, first Earl of Zetland. They have only one son, Charles Elsley, and several daughters. Arms.—Quarterly or and argent, five roses in saltire gules, seeded and barbed proper. Crest.—A sagittary regardant, the human part proper, the hind part argent, charged on the side with a like rose, drawing with his hands a bow and arrow proper. | Motto. Sans Dieu rien. The situation of New Building is one of the most pleasing im- aginable, standing on the southern side of a green knoll, sheltered from the winds of the north and east by groves of lofty forest trees, and commanding extensive and beautiful views of the sur- rounding country. ‘Towards the west the wide plain of York lies beneath the eye, bounded, by the hills of Craven and Wensleydale, a prospect rich and fair as man can desire to look upon. From | the hill behind the mansion, on a clear day, the trains passing along the north-eastern railway, can be distinctly traced by the smoke of the engines, from leaving the station at York till entering that of Darlington, a distance of nearly fifty miles. In front, but deep below, is the humble church and village of Kirby Knowle; a * The Rev. Heneage Elsley, compiled “‘ Annotations on the Gospels and Acts of the Apostles,’ a work of great utility to divinity students. NEW BUILDING. 245 short distance southward, rises from amid thick foliage, the tower of Filiskirk Church; near which is Mount St. John, once a Com- mandery of the Knights of the Hospital; further in the distance the eyes gladly rest on the towers of York Minster. Towards the south-west, and almost in a line, at different distances may be seen the historic lands of Upsall, Thirsk, and Topcliffe, associated with the names of Scrope, Mowbray, and Percy. South-east the view embraces arich variety of mountain scenery, a picture of exquisite beauty. When viewed at a distance from the south, the mansion presents the appearance of a large square tower with watch turrets at the angies, with a lower wing extending to the west, the east being shaded by tall trees. On a nearer inspection we find the lofty central portion and western wing, to be the newest parts of the building; the part projecting northward, with a square staircase tower in the early English style, may be deemed the oldest parts of the fabric, and probably coeval with the first erection by Roger de Lascelles. The roofs are flat and covered with lead. What appears at a distance like angle turrets, are the chimneys, which thus disposed serve both for use and ornament. On the eastern part of the front we see a proof of the fire of the seventeenth century, and the different arrangement of the buildings which took place after that event. The range of the old buildings extended southward, occupying part of what is now the bowling green, and fronting eastward. The remains of two fire places are to be seen on the outside of the wall, which appear to have been finished with great care; they are of dressed stone, with double pillars on each side. The upper one is smaller than the lower, but in the same style, with the addition of a small niche on each side. The northern part is in a state of dilapidation and without some necessary repairs will soon fall to ruin. The woods around are grand and lofty—the grounds in front are not extensive but exceedingly pleasant. In the interior, the apartments are numerous, nearly fifty in - number, and adapted for the accommodation of an extensive house hold. Beneath the level of the ground are vaults arched with stone, sufficient to contain the winter’s stores of a large garrison. 246 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. They appear of equal date with the oldest parts of the building. From one of these vaults, at the extreme north-west corner, a subterraneous passage leads, some say, to Upsall Castle. That such a passage exists is certain, but that it goes as far as Upsall is very doubtful. It was explored by the late Francis Smyth, Esq., a considerable distance, when his further progress was arrested by the fall of the roof. The entrance is now walled up. The rooms in the older parts are small, low, and not very convenient; and have not been occupied during the last half century. In the modern part they are spacious and lofty, and before October, 1856, were fitted up in a style of massive beauty ; the walls were adorned with numerous pictures and family portraits, among which was a fine portrait of Judge Rokeby in his robes of office, by G. Schalken; Ursula Lady Rokeby his wife; King William and Queen Mary, presented by themselves to Judge Rokeby; Elizabeth Rokeby, afterwards wife of Samuel Buxton, Esq. ; Lady Catherine Scrope, wife of Lord Scrope of Upsall, daughter of Richard Earl of Cumberland; with many others, chiefly Rokebys, Buxtons, and Smyths. The staircase occupies a square tower, the steps are of oak, two inches thick, black and bright, and calculated to endure for centuries yet to come. The Library is a spacious room thirty feet by twenty-one, and of ample height; it is in the old part of the building, and was pro- bably “the great Chalmer” of the Constables; as the room below, now used as a kitchen, and of equal dimensions with that above, was the “ goodlye haulle.” The Library comprised about five thousand volumes, among which were some of the choicest works on English Antiquities and Topography extant. It was begun by 3 Judge Rokeby, and the successive owners kept adding to the stock, until the death of Francis Smyth, Esq., when no further additions were made; so that numerous as the books were there was not one of the present century amongst them. Here were preserved many curiosities and valuable family documents ; a MS. of Ralph Rokeby’s history of that renowned family; a MS. copy of Lord Fairfax’s account of the Northern wars in which he was engaged, ——— NS SRR a a ee ec ee ——— NEW BUILDING. 247 copied by his nephew, and presented to Judge Rokeby by the general himself; the correspondence of the Rokebys, carefully preserved and bound in volumes, large masses of letters and accounts, not perhaps of much value then, but highly interesting now ; numerous MS. pedigrees of the Yorkshire families: one of that of Smyth on vellum, of great length and beauty. This room is lighted from the east, by a window of four lights, divided by a transom, and on the west by one of three lights divided in a similar manner. When we first saw this room in the spring of 1856, a massive oak table, with richly carved legs stood in the centre, upon and around it lay books and manuscripts, as though their owner had just left the apartment ; with this exception that the dust and damp of antiquity were spread over the room and its interesting contents. When we again saw it in the December of the same year, death had snatched away the owner, a sale had taken place, and the room was empty, the shelves were there, but the books were gone. In the kitchen was a massive oak table finely carved, bearing the date 1609. In another room, not used, was a single oak plank, formerly used as a table, two feet six inches wide, and nine feet in length, which was part of the famous Upsall oak; another part of equal dimensions was formed into a table for the use of the farm house at Upsall Castle. The most singular place in the whole building is a small secret room in the eastern wall, adjoining the kitchen and library. It is reached by narrow winding passages in the thickness of the wall, and is a square of three feet six inches, by six feet in height. One chair alone constitutes its furniture. On either side are closets with shelves. The only place for the admittance of light and air, is a small aperture looking towards the east, about nine inches high by four wide, which opens against an angle of the building, so that the small air hole could not be seen from without. A stone exactly fitting the place can be inserted at pleasure, and then all is darkness. Many old Halls and Castles had these secret hiding _ places, and in the sixteenth century they were not unfrequently used. During the reign of Elizabeth, the Romish priests were often “ slad to seek sweetgsafety out in such vaults and prisons,” and it 248 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. is highly probable that this place has concealed some priests of that age, or perhaps the recusant Constable himself. When wandering through the low rooms, winding passages and gloomy vaults of this antique mansion, we are strongly reminded of the enchanted castles of romance. Or we might say with | Southey, when describing the buried city of Baly, ** Those rooms which never since the days of yore, By human footsteps have been visited ; Those rooms which never more A human foot shall tread, We have trod.” Whatever may be the fate of New Building, whether it be re- novated, and maintain the rank it hitherto has done; or sink by slow decay into a venerable ruin ; it must always be an interesting place, what from the romantic beauty of its situation, what from the illustrious families who have occupied it, and with whose names it must for ever be associated. sxsw gui ties apiatgansttcammiceas antisites iisancsageiegi binning Sic sa aap iT CITE AAA ELLE ATO, A LOT ICE eT ee LEAKE. 249 LEAKE. LEAKE ™* is the head of an extensive parish which extends north- ward from that of Thornton-le-Street, and lies between the river Codbeck and the Hambleton Hills, including within its limits the townships of Leake, Knayton-cum-Brawith, Borrowby, Landmoth- with-Catto, Gueldable, Crosby, Nether Silton, and part of Kepwick. A tradition exists that Leake was formerly a large town, and that it was destroyed by the Danes—which is not unlikely; many circumstances contribute to shew that it was of more importance “formerly than at present. Whatever ill treatment Leake experienced from the Danes, it is certain that it was completely devastated by the Normans, who after the siege of York laid nearly the whole of the Vale of Mow- bray in ruins, destroying the towns and villages, and murdering or driving away the inhabitants. At the time of the Domesday Survey +t Leake was waste. It is the first mentioned among the places belonging to the soke of Alvertune, (North Allerton). Again among the lands of the earl of Morton, we find the following brief entry relative to this place. “In Lece, Gamel had one manor of three carucates. It is waste.” t Amongst the lands granted by William Rufus in 1087, to William * Sometimes written Leche—Lece—Lec—Leeke—probably from Lech, British—a stone, as cromlech,astone table. ‘* Llecen Fylliad. Leckonfield, the flat stone in the gloomy shade.’’—Oliver’s Beverley. The Welsh terms for stone are Llech, maen, Karreg, from the last comes the English word Crag. + A.D. 1086, I Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 76. | 290. THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. de Carilepho, bishop of Durham, were the following in this parish. In Catto, three carucates inland, or of the king’s ancient demesne. In Landmote, three carucates enland. In Leche, two carucates and the lands of the church inland. In Beribi, (Borrowby) four carucates enland. In Kepwick, one carucate, which Kille the son of Erchelus held. In Crosby, three carucates, which Aldred the son of Sinward held. That some great and sudden destruction of human life has taken place at or near Leake, is quite evident; for when the church- yard was drained in 1852, the workmen came upon a great quantity of human bones, which appeared as though they had been thrown indiscriminately into a pit. A number of siiver coins were also found at the same time, most of which appear to have been of the coinage of Edward I., and some of them minted at York. From the manner in which they were found, all in one place, as if they had been hidden in a bag, we might infer that they had been secreted by their owner, when obliged to flee from some enemy, and that he had either lost his life, or never returned to regain his hidden treasure. It is well known that during the reign of king Edward II., the Scots made repeated incursions into the north of England, burning and destroying all before them. In 1320, under the command of Thomas Randolph, earl of Murray, they wasted the country as far as the walls of York ; again in 1322, when king Edward was obliged to retire from Scotland, Robert Bruce pur- sued him, with a small but gallant army as far as Byland Abbey, where a battle was fought, and the English army defeated. At this time the route of both armies would lie directly along the Vale of Mowbray, and the unfortunate parish of Leake would again feel the fury of the conquering Scots in their homeward march; their advance would be too rapid for doing much mischief, and was probably made along the ridge of Hambleton; on their return they could plunder and burn at leisure as they had no enemy to fear ; and from the coins found, and the mass of human bones, we should infer that Leake was destroyed at that time, that the money was hid on the approach of danger, and that the owner perished with the rest of the inhabitants. Every thing combus- TC ts a RTC tS aS tS st tin ss hs tens ss = = " LEAKE. 251 tible about the church was probably burned at the same time, and the eastern part of it broken down and repaired some years after- wards in a different style.. The CHURCH is a venerable and interesting fabric, consisting of nave, north and south aisles, chancel, porch, and a tower at the west end. Above the entrance of the porch is a sun dial, inscribed “ Labitur et Labetur.” The tower is in the Early English style, the upper story orna- mented with a kind of arcade, consisting of three arches on each face, the centre ones open forming windows; a shaft with an Anglo-Norman capital divides the windows into two lights each. Above these arches are the half worn, grotesque heads of a corbel table, running round the tower just below the battlement. The window into the basement story consists of three lights, with trefoil heads. ‘There are no buttresses to the tower or nave, which are evidently the oldest parts of the building. The chancel has two buttresses on each side, and one at each angle, of two stages each, which die away beneath the weather moulding. The en- trance door of the chancel is through one of the buttresses. The east window is of four lights in the Perpendicular style: those of the nave and clerestory are narrow of two lights each, with trefoil heads. The windows of the chancel are wider, of two lights each, with eyes open, under a square moulding. A little eastward of the porch, on a stone in the wall is carved the figure of a lion; another stone near it appears to have been ornamented but is now defaced. The roof is of a low pitch and covered with lead. In the interior the arch opening from the nave into the base- ment of the tower is semicircular; the three arches dividing the north aisle from the nave are also circular; the capitals of the columns adorned with foliage, each different from the others. The arches of the south aisle are pointed; the capital of one of the columns is profusely ornamented with carved oak leaves and acorns. From the difference in the arches we might be led to infer that the south aisle was of a later date than the north, which hardly appears to be the case. We may therefore suppose that 252 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. this church was built at the time when the circular had not quite given way to the pointed arch, or rather while the two styles were striving for the mastery. | The interior has been recently renovated, and presents a neat and clean appearance. The ends of two stalls now standing in the chancel, are beautiful specimens of carving on oak: the tops ter- minate in delicately executed finials, and at the front of each is an advanced pillar crowned by the figure of a nondescript animal, one resembling a sea lion, the other a dragon. One of them bears a shield, charged with crossed keys, and the syllable “ barde,” inscribed beneath ; the other is ornamented with a bearded figure bearing a book and Agnus Dei, standing on a ton, with the word henij,” inscribed below.—Near the bottom of the stall is the date of the work, ‘An, Bo. So. WD. 19. oc. Op. fecit est.” In the tower are three bells. Around the largest is inscribed in Lombardic capitals— O. PATER. AE CRED. GRENDATE. MISERI. MISERA.* The middle bell (cracked) bears— , JESUS BE OUR SPEED, 1618. The least bell— FILY DEI MISERRERE MEI, 1618. In the year 1768, the bells were re-hung : timber for that pur- pose was given by the bishop of Durham, from Cotcliffe wood. In the middle aisle of the nave, on a large black stone is a brass, bearing a male and female figure,—the male habited in a gown with wide sleeves, with something suspended from a girdle round the waist. 'The female wears a veil over the head, her hands are clasped upon her breast in the attitude of prayer ; the sleeves of her dress have close fitting cuffs near the hands, and the bottom of the gown is slightly ornamented. Below the figures is the following inscription : “OL Bor Charitie p’y for pe Soules of Fohn Watson, * This bell is supposed to have come from Rievaux Abbey after the dissolution of the religious houses, and to be of the age of Aelred the third Abbot, who died in 1166. LEAKE. 253 gu’tpme Auditor to pe Lord Sevoope of Whysall, & Alice his fife & thetr child. @Abhose soules Yesu p’don.” On a marble tablet above the chancel door is inscribed— ‘‘ Near this place lie the remains of Charles Bisset, Doctor of Medicine, who was eminent both as a physician and military engineer, to which his works both in print and manuscript in each of these lines, will bear testi- mony for some succeeding ages. : Obt. 14th Jany., 1791, AX. 75.”’ Near the above is the following, also on a marble tablet— ‘¢ Near this place are interred the remains of Mrs. Ann Bisset, relict of Charles Bisset, M.D., who departed this life August 31st, 1810, AS. 76 years.”” Testamentary Burials from Torre’s MSS. “3 Aug., 1610, John Marske, Vicar of Leeke.” “5 Jan., 1637, Xpopfer Pinkney of Nether Silton, Gent.” In 1854, the church was restored internally, when a piscina was found in the wall of the south aisle, where it is supposed there had been a small chapel. Some daubs of colour and verses from scripture were found on the walls of the chancel, but nothing worth preserving. The whole cost of the repairs amounted to about 370/., of which sum 42/. was obtained from the Society for promoting the building, enlargement, and repair of Churches, “on the express and acknowledged condition that 251 seats should be reserved for the use of the poorer inhabitants of the parish for ever.” 5 A legend exists which accounts for the situation of the church. It was the intention of the builders to erect it on the top of Borrowby Bank, a commanding eminence half a mile west of its present position, where it would have formed a very conspicuous object to a great extent of country. Materials were accordingly earried thither for that purpose; when strange to say, whatever was carried there in the day time was removed by supernatural means during the night, to the place where the church now stands. This settled the matter, and the church was built in its present situation. The Benifice of Leake is a peculiar Vicarage in charge. It was formerly a Rectory belonging to the patronage of the Bishops of a 254 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Durham, and in the Valor of Pope Nicholas IV., A.D. 1292, is valued at 53/. 6s. 8d., while in the Nova Taz, only eighteen years afterwards at 26. 13s. 4d. Such diminution in value is supposed to have been occasioned by the wasteful inroads of the Scots. In the Nona Rolls, 14th Edward III., A.D. 1341, the living is re- turned at 32/., whereof 26s. 8d. is for the portion of the abbot of Rievaux. ‘The endowment of the church is worth 4/., and the tithe of hay 6/. 13s. 4d., oblations and other small tithes are worth 10/., as hath been found on the oath of John de Hilton, Roger de Cowesby, John Baron, Peter Grayne, and William de Knayton.” The Rectory was appropriated and a Vicarage ordained therein, July 27th, 1344: * when to the Vicar was allotted a suit of apart- ments in the rectorial mansion, and the altarage of the parish, the tithes of hay throughout the different townships of Leake, Knay- ton, Landmoth, Brawith, Silton, Kepwick, Alverton, and Crosby, all other small tithes throughout the parish, and all other the re- maining rents and profits of the said church, with two oxgangs of land lying in the territory of Silton, with all their rights and ap- purtenances for ever. The endowment then reserves for the Rector the remaining part of the rectorial mansion, and the tithes of the sheaf corn of the whole parish of Leake, with the rent of 26s. 8d., which John of Leake had been accustomed to pay, together with the tenths of the hay of the demesne meadows of the Rector under Cotcliff, and of Berghby, which are especially re- served for the use of the Bishop of Durham towards the support of his table. The endowment then ordains that the Vicar shall be subject to all the ordinary burthens of the said church, and liable to the repairs of the chancel, as well as to the furnishing of books and other inner ornaments of the same church to the Rector customarily belonging.t The first Vicar was Dm. John Harpels- thorpe or Applethorp. * Rectors of Leake, 1239, Tho. de Newarks. 1312, Dom. Will. de Handlo. 1319, Dom. Will. de Clyff. —— Dom. Rob. de Spinay. + *Ordinatio Vicarie Ville de Leek Mense Episcopi Dunelm Appropriat. Will’s Permissione divina Ebor. Archiepiscopus Anglie Primus, Sedis Apostolice Legatus dilecto filio Dno. Johanni Applethorp salutem, Gratiam et Benedictionem— ee — LEAKE. 255 In the Liber Regis 26th Henry VIII., (1534) we find a widely different statement of the value of the Vicarage. The whole in- come is there stated to be only 16/., made up as follows :—House, with three oxgangs of land in the village of Newton, (evidently a mistake for the two oxgangs in Nether Silton) worth 18s. per ann. Liber redd, free rent, 1/. 6s. 8d., being the portion paid by the abbot of Rievaux for the township of Crosby. Tithes of hay 20s.. calves 10s., lambs 40s., of wool 60s., other small tithes 40s., Ob- lations 4/., other profits 17. 5s. 4d. Amongst lands demised by Bishop Barnes to Queen Elizabeth, June 20th, 1578, we find “ All the rectory and parsonage of Leake in Yorkshire, and all the tithes, oblations, profits, and commodities thereunto belonging, for the term of fifty years, yearly rent 18/.”* Ad Presentationem venerabilis in Christo Patris Dne. Richardi Dei Gratii Dunelm Episcopi te de cujus meritis et virtutibus sinceram in Domino Fiduciam Optinemus ad Vicariam Ecclesie Parochialis de Leek nostra Dioces. Mense Episcopi Dunelm Appropriate per nos inferius ordinatum vacantem Admittimus intuitu Caritatis et Vicarium perpetuum cum onere personalis Residentie juxte Formam Constitutiones Legati editz in hoc casu Institumius Canonice in eadem. Ordinamus insuper volumus statuimus Decernuimus in his scriptis quod vicaria predicta consistat in Aula Mansi Rectoris de Leek cum cameris adjunctis superius et inferius cum Coquina Braciatores et veteri Aula cum Clausula interiori duntaxat. Item, in toto Alteragio Ecclesie Parachialis de Leek predicte, Decimus Feni de Leek, Knayton, Landmot, Brathwath, Suton et Kepwick, Alverton et Crosseby, ac in ceteris minutis Decimis Parochie de Leek quocunque nomine Conseantur. Item in Redditibus et Proventibus quibuscunque dicte Ecclesie residuis preeter illa quee inferius Reservantur, ac etiam in duobus Bovatis Terre Dominicalis Ecclesia de Leek supradicte in Territorio de Silton jacent. cum suis Juribus et Per- tinentiis universis perpetuis temporibus duratur—Residuum vero Mansi Rectorie predictz ac Decimas Garbarum totius Parochic de Leek et Annum Redditum xxvis. et viiid. ques Johannis de Leek Rectori dictce Ecclesia de Leek solvere Consuevit— nec non Decemam Freni de Pratis Dominicalibus Rectoris subtus Coteclif et de Pratis de Berghby Episcopo Dunelm et ejus Mense Episcopali specialitur Reserva- mus—Onera vero ordinaria queecunque dicta Ecclesie de Leek qualiter cunque incumbentia Vicarium dictz Ecclesize de Leek qui pro tempore fuerit supportare Volumus et subire; nec non ipsum vicarium ad Cancelli ejusdem Eccles de Leek Refectionem ac Librorum et aliorum ornamentorum teneri volumus perpetuis tem- poribus successiores—Reservata nobis Potestate Augendiet Mutandi et Dimenuendi dictam Vicariam et Portiones ejusdem prout ad Honorem Dei et Utiiitatem Ecclesize et Animarum Parochianorum ejusdem melius videbitur Expedire Jure, Jurisdictione, Dignitate, Honore et Pont, nostris et Ecclesie nostiz Ebor in omnibus et per omnia semper Salvis. In Cujus Rei Testimonium Sigillum nostram presentibus est Appensum Datis Apud Thorp juxta Ebor. xxvijs. die Mensis Julii, Ao. Dni. 1344, et Pont nostri tertio.”’ * Strype. nn erent pnp APO ERT OE EP a PN A NR AE A A I SE I A 256 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. In 1647, upon the abolishing of Archbishops and Bishops by Act of Parliament, Leake was valued at ann. 30/. Improvements above 50/. per ann.* From 1648 to 1660, the church appears to have been shut up, and no entries are made in the Parish Registers during these , present rent per twelve years. No living appears to have been more subject to fluctuations in value than that of Leake; we extract the following particulars from the different terriers. The earliest is without date, but supposed to be about the year 1683, and is styled “A Perfect Terrier of the Glebe and other Tythes and Pensions belonging to the Vicaridge of Leak,” viz., as followeth. “Imp. One Vicaridge House at Leak, with an Orchard and Church yard at the value of 7/. 6s. 8d. 2. One piece of Glebe Land called by the name of West Ings, at the valew of six pounds p. annum. 8. A peice of Glebe Land called by the name of Barleyholm, att three pounds ten shillings p. Ann. 4. One little Vicaridge House at the Chappel of Silton at 4/. p. Annu. 5. Crosby, Kattaw Lanmouth, and Oxbanck at 6/. p. Annu. 6. Great Leak, 15 p. Annu., Borrowby at 4/. p. Annu., Knayton at 9/. per Annu., Silton at 12/. per Annu., Allerton Ings 30/. per Annu. Total 96/. 16s. 8d.” The next Terrier bears date Sep. 12, 1716, and describes the various sources whence the Vicar’s income is derived as in the last, but does not give the value; the “ Vicaridge House of Leak and Orchard” have disappeared, and we have “ ye Parsonage Garth” — instead. In 1749, we find no mention of the Vicarage House. “ A Stable in ye Pond Garth and ye Church yard, of ye value of 1/. 16s. 6d. Great Leek payeth in money 1és., a Tyth Calf 4s., a fleece 1s. 6d., a Lamb 2s. 6d., Hen 6d., Offerings 2d. a communicant; Potatoes * Rawlinson’s MSS, i j { i LEAKE. 257 5s. per acre, Turnips 2s. 6d. p. acre, Apples and Pears according to agreement, a Pig 1s., a Goose 10d. Knayton, Borrowby-with-Outhouses, pay 10s., a calf and other things as beforesaid. Braweth 4s. a calf, ye rest as aforesd- Crosby, Lanmouth, Catta, Oxbank, &c., is 6/. p. annum. Glebe Land, called by ye Name of ye West Ings, 6/. p. annum. “The Tythe of Allerton Ings, 12. 16s. 6d. Knayton Oxgang money, 19s. 4d. Borrowby, 13s. 4d. Lia Falconbridge composition for a ffarm nigh Kipwick Mill, 2s. Hollybour ffarm, 1s.; Leek Hill, belonging a ffarm of L4 Falcon- oe called by ye Name of ffarlands, 1/.; Braweth Mill, 3s. 4d.; Borrowby Mill, 2s. 4d.” The Terrier of Nether Silton, of the same date, mentions “one House and Garth at 12s. a year; one Close called Barley Holm, 4]. a year; Tythe Calf, 9s.; Lamb, 2s.; Wool, 1s. 2d. a fleece ; for a Goose, 9d.; a ffoal, one penny; Tyth Hay 10d. a day mow- ing; Easter offerings, 2d.a Communicant; Surplice flees of ds. a marriage by Banns, & 1s. a ffuneral.” In that of Sep. 11th, 1760, the garth at Leke, called the Pond garth, is estimated at half-an-acre; the Barley holme in Silton at nine-and-a-half acres ;, and the West Ings at eighteen-and-a-half acres. At that time the tithes of the different townships were let as follows :— a ae 2 Leake without Kepwick es “ye e Bi 3 10 0 Boroughby and Gueldable.. Le ce re 16 00 Knayton-cum-Brawith ae ae ap AA | Allerton Ings ae an “ ab ri: Meda | Silton, not let, but worth Ae of T wo 20 0 0 Four Houses at Kepwick, 4d. each at Faster ae Bore ‘Lanmouth, Cattowe, Oxbank, Oxmoore, M ee Hall, oa 6 00 Crosby-Modus Mortuaries and Surplice ffzes homnrawaibie a sie 4 0 Total as oe as £72 11 4 The Terrier of July 24th, 1770, is nearly similar to the last, and gives the value at “about 80/.” with the addition of the church furniture. R YA a Ne ES a A SS ne A Re Ee SE ee a a tN SN NT I SAR A SE RAEN: RRA eta cin 9b facaenensia ree en EL LT A A Rie on ln Roa a 258 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. | ‘“Leeke—one spade, one shovel, one mattock, two ladders, 3 bells, 2 surplices, 2 pewter flaggons, 2 pewter plates, 1 silver chalice—weight 130z. 12 dwts. avoirdupois, 2 alms’ boxes, 1 large chest, one black woollen table cover, 1 white linen do., 1 napkin, 1 looking glass, 1 large Bible, three large books of common prayer.” “Silton—2 bells, 1 bier, 1 surplice, 1 black table cover, 1 nap- kin, 1 pewter flaggon, 1 silver chalice, 1 pewter plate, 1 alms’ box, 1 chest, 1 Bible, 1 common prayer book.” The Apportionment of the Tithes of the Parish of ada under the Tithe Commutation Act was made Dec. 10th, 1850. John Job Rawlinson, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, Commissioner. Valuer for Leake, Borrowby, Gueldable, Knayton, Brawith, Landmoth-with- Catto, and Crosby, William Simpson, Esq., of Nunthorp. For Silton, Henry Scott of Oulston, and Henry John Turner of Rich- mond, Esqrs. Notice is taken of the different Moduses of 15s. paid for Hay in Leake, of 10d. a day mowing in Silton, of 18s. 4d. on Borrowby and Gueldable, of 19s. 4d. on Knayton, and 61. on Landmoth, Catto, and Crosby. The Impropriate Rectors, to whom the rent charge in lieu of corn tithe is payable, are the Trustees under the will of the late Peter Consett, Esq. On the formation of the new Diocese of Ripon in 1836, “all the manors, messuages, farms, lands, tenements, minerals, royalties and other possessions of the Bishop of Durham, situated in How- den and Howdenshire, Northallerton and Allertonshire, Borrowby, Brompton, Romanby, Osmotherley, and Sowerby Grange, all in the county of York. The patronage of the benefice of Birkby, Osmotherley, Leak-with-Nether-Silton, and Craike, were trans- — ferred from the Bishop of Durham to the Bishop of Ripon,” and who is now consequently patron of the living of Leake, owner of Cottcliff wood, and lord of the manor of Borrowby. The present Vicar, the Rev. Thomas Albin Atwood, M.A., re- sides at Knayton. The charities of the parish are—for the poor of the ipa. of Borrowby, the rent of a close containing rather less than an acre, to be distributed amongst poor widows, donor unknown. Rent ec et te tt A TS tt CC eT tC eA tt ete i ttt ttt ttt mt i tt th te an tH bel 3 oS oe © charge of 20s. per ann. Half | Por hOwarn | . oes 2 Se ee a Z of the money is bestowed Sant eeise | : : “3 S4abaseqg ° ® : _in tea to poor widows, and} 5 Pov Fis Bes § o | : 3 a Tea ta 2 4 the other half is for teach-| = psi oss: he S ) eS eae ae 4 ing a poor boy to read—| : eter sb Sa a, | me : Ger PLS oo = origin unknown. Rent}: 2 fips: ti | charge of 5/. per annum for | ~ | | el 83, 2eeen | ee | teaching four poor boys to} * ISOASHRe RA ion ° 2 — read and write, and find-| * oot) SoMa Gy é 3 z Js RPOSOSCCOND wo ing them in books and sta- 69 cs = tioery—donor unknown. |2| 2SZ52222388/ 2/8] | a eo Cord Ge az* ~ es j a To the poor of the town-| « weooooscoua >) & 1 Oo 3 ae os wo ww —w's ) “ ship of Knayton, William | = Pa ere ae hart Arming’s gift, interest of} » ~ = Sue | . e oo |) a) = = S o = 20/. laid out in bread. =f Brok Sp 3] B rw) i) RD: = a i George Harland by will,| ., a ot eesia | By] | S) dated 29th of April, 1807, SL e = 2 |o gave arent charge of 5/.| = aw" (gos ) 3s 122aoa per ann., charged on anal-| ~ ow [Re | 2 See | lotment called Gravel Moor | So = = : : : S) Qtr towouns 2 ' Field, for educating six of] & Sere SO32 "hn : | the poorest children in the} wecoocooowenw =| 5 | 5] | township x =e a , a Tis . . } s We transcribe both the| ie o ) & oSS5S BUARH) | matter and manner of John| * Oe eres S | ‘ S ooo oO eaooo = { Brown’s gift from a board . a ae = coco oor: a | in the church. = = Ba} | “ John Brown of Knay-| & ora SHE RESah| ¥ Sg ae ° © = = = i) i ton, in the parish of Leke,| > SEE SSAA A Sieh, | 5 © Qmnmneonoooce t =e) and Mary Brown my wife, | ‘hides ay | = ~J tO) = < having lost Mary Brown} = wees #8828! = our only daughter dear, for} 2} Saws Soow”| S Cc Or © So = | | Christ’s sake did agree to | leave in trust to the Mitiater of this Church & the Churchwardens | and Overseers of the poor of Knayton, and to their hundreds for | ever, one pound four shillings a year, who are desired equally to | i Se ee Oe ee Ee eee oe 260 © THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. distribute it amongst the poor people of Knayton-cum-Brawith, in the manner and at the times following for ever, viz. :—On the Sacrament day of St. Michael, 4s. 4d. to be laid out in white bread. On the evening before Christmas Eve, 6s. 8d. in wheat. On Christmas Day, 4s. 4d. in bread. On Easter day, 4s. 4d. in bread. And on Whit-Sunday, 4s.4d.in bread. Only one in a house, and such as swerve not in any respect from the Church of England, to partake of this small alms, and all are requested to receive the Sacrament on Sacrament days. “ied For other particulars respecting this charity, see the town’s Book of Knayton. Sept ye 23, Anno Dom. 1768.” The Parish Registers commence in 1570; imperfect from 1676 to 1680, and lost from 1680 to 1695. They are generally speaking in a good state of preservation. From 1673 to 1705, all the bodies are said to have been interred in woollen “ according to the direc- tions of the late Acte for burying in woollen.” Stone coffins have frequently been found by the Sexton in the churchyard, when digging graves, mostly to the north-east of the church. In a field east of the Churchyard, foundations of buildings can be distinctly traced by green ridges, and on digging into the ground fragments of walls and heaps of stones are found. Are those the remains of the Aula Mansi Rectoris de Leek, mentioned in the endowment, the “One Vicaridge House” of the earliest terrier, or the foundations of some village destroyed in the Scottish invasions ? Leake, formerly called a manor in the 16th and 17th centuries, was in possession of a family of the name of Danby, in which it continued until 1697, when Robert Danby, Esq., disposed of it to Edmund Barstow, Esq. of Northallerton ; who after successive mortgages to Robert Earl of Holderness, Sir Robert Eden, and Nathaniel Ellison, D.D., sold the estate to Mary Smith of Durham, in trust for George Smith, of Burn Hall in the county of Durham, Esq. In 1756, on the marriage of his daughter with Anthony Salvin of Sunderland, Esq., the same George Smith settled the estate upon Anthony Salvin and his said daughter; and it a = - = tt ee ee ee ee creer mane Semen nentenee panne 4 mnaeaceencamin mts © tment SR AS At BE i et 4s me 9 ee nem LEAKE. | 261 continued in the Salvin family until 1788, when it was conveyed to Samuel Popplewell, Thomas Walton, and Henry Hirst, Esqrs., of whom it was purchased in 1803 by Warcop Consett, Esq., and is at present held by the Trustees under his will. Leake Hall is an antique building near the church, partly modernised, yet retaining the principal features of an old English manor house of the 16th century. The staircase is wide, and the steps of massive oak, black and bright; the rooms are spacious and lofty, some of them wainscotted with oak, neatly carved and ornamented with armorial shields. The family of Morton, now tenants of the Hall, has occupied it from father to son for more than a century. A road leading from the Hall to a field on the north side of the - church, is called “the Danes’ lane.” There is a close called “ Burying Garth,” adjoining the turnpike road from Thirsk to Yarm, a little northwards of the church, so named from the burial there of thirty-two cows and as many young cattle, which perished in the fatal distemper of 1749. The population of the township of Leake does not exceed a dozen souls. = ponchiies FEES eens cy emai ie cL ES EIS AIS NE tee ey hare acai. .aeatenpenantttn ane " me doce omen na en noememn a ae ees peers et . RS a ee eT eee ! ra tepesiaipesienteineh ems sh 262 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. UPSALL. UPSALL* is situated four miles north-east of Thirsk, and is chiefly remarkable as the site of a Castle, where the lords Scrope of Upsall and Masham resided for the space of two hundred years. The situation is pleasant, on the south-western slope of a detached hill, overlooking the country west, north, and south, to a considerable distance. Of the early history of this place we have no account : the pro- bability is, that it derived its name from the Scandinavian invaders of England, who in the ninth century, drove out, or subdued the Anglo Saxons, and established an independent kingdom in Northumbria. é A learned Dane, in a recent work on England says, “ Even the * The name is evidently derived from some castle, hall, temple, or remarkable building on the hill—Up, a hill—and Sall, a Hall—that is, the Hall on the hill, or the High Hall. The following derivation was given us by Thomas Wright, Esq., F.S.A. “* The derivation of Upsall is either from ‘ Up,’ an upland, and ‘Sall,’ a hall; or else, what I consider more probable, from Upper Hall, in contradistinction to some other Hall or Castle, as we now say ‘ High Hall,’ and ‘ Low Hall.’ ‘ Sall,’ being the Anglo Saxon name for a Hall, (the French Salle is derived from the Teutonic Franks). Amongst all the Teutonic and Saxon races, the hall was beyond all comparison, the most important and remarkable part of a chief’s house, and except perhaps the earth- works around, that of most distinction. The whole residence was spoken of as ‘the Salle,’ now ‘ the Hall,’ as is the case with many manorial houses.” The names of twenty places in Yorkshire are composed in the same manner of ‘Sall,’? and some personal, or deseriptive appellation as Gomersal, Elmsall, Odsall;, Campsall, Loversall, Tyersall, &c. os te ee re a eee ne ee ea rt et a I tt OE EN ARN A eS fee ee — Ae en ae aa ade te SS Ly NN A RS SS Sn A tena ea: UPSALL. 263 name of one of the most important sacrificial places in the Scandi- navian north is to be foundin Yorkshire, in Upsal, (from Upsalir, the high halls).” * Perhaps we should not greatly err in supposing that before the conversion of the Danes to christianity, they paid religious worship and offered sacrifice to Odin, in a “ high hall,” or temple on this hill; the site is appropriate, for the gods were worshipped in sacred groves and forests, on heaths, and on “holy mountains,” and that this spot received its name from the high place of sacrifice in the north is highly probable. *‘the northmen came, Fixed on each vale a Runic name, Rear’d high their altar’s rugged stone, And gave their Gods the land they won.” At the time of the Domesday Survey, this place formed part of the vast estate of the earl of Morton, and is recorded thus :—“ In Upsale three villanes have one plough. Richard has it of the earl. Wood and plain one mile and a half long and the same broad.” + Soon afterwards, Upsall with large possessions in the neigh- bourhood, passed into the hands of the Mowbrays, who parcelled out the lands among their retainers or dependents, and a chief who derived his surname from the place became owner of Upsall. The history of this family is very meagre, the first of the name we find recorded is Hugh de Upsall, who resided here, and held Kirkby Knowle of the heirs of Baldwin Wake, about the year 1277. In 1297, Richard de Upsall presented Richard de Rokesburgh to the rectory of South Kilvington. In 1303, Isabella de Upsall was lady here, and exercised her right of patronage, by presenting Thomas de Waddyley to the same rectory. In 1315, Galfred de Upsall was lord of Upsall, and sold to the _ Abbey of Byland an annuity of five marks out of his water mill in Kilvington, which Hugh his son and Pope Gregory the Tenth confirmed. f * Worsaae’s Danes and Norwegian’s in England, p. 69. + Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 76. + Burton’s Mon. Ebor., p. 333. — + + Se ene neers seey este eee ger pe er i fee ern eee 264 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. He was one of 24 knights temp. Edward II., who, on the com- plaint of Oliver Sandbus of York, were ordered to inquire, survey, and certify the accustomed bounds of the fish ponds on the river Foss, and ascertain the profits belonging thereto.* He was living in 1349, and was the last of the family who resided here. A castle, manor house, or hall, is said to have been erected at Upsall about the year 1130, when Roger de Mowbray, son of Nigel Albini, was superior lord of the fee. What kind of building this was we know not; yet from the time of its erection, we may suppose the walls were of great thickness, the windows few and narrow, and the apartments gloomy and uncomfortable. From the de Upsalls the castle and manor passed to the Scropes of Masham and Upsall, with whom they continued until that line became extinct. The Scropes are first mentioned as owners of lands in Yorkshire in the reign of king John. They flourished for many descents at Bolton in Wensleydale; till John lord Scrope of Bolton, who . married a daughter of Roger de Mowbray, the third of that name, who died in 1299, by whom he had two sons: the eldest became possessed of Bolton, and Sir Geoffrey the other of Upsall. Sir Geoffrey was possessed of large estates in Yorkshire, and obtained from king Edward II. a licence to castellate his house at Clifton- upon-Yore; and had at the same time free warren in all his demesne lands at Clifton, Masham, Upsall, Thornbrough, Kil- vington, and Parnwick in Yorkshire, and at Walton in Northum- berland. In the 17th year of the same monarch, he was constituted chief Justice of the court of King’s Bench; as he was in the 4th and 6th of Edward III.; being the next year sent abroad on the king’s affairs, he resigned his judicial office. He was afterwards © in the wars of Flanders, and attained the rank of Banneret. By his wife Ivetta he had issue, Henry his successor, and John. The gallant and learned lord Geoffrey died in 1840, when his eldest son Henry le Scrope, succeeded to his estates; who in the dth of Edward III. was engaged in the wars of Scotland; when a few * Drake’s Eboracum, p. 303. tnt re ny i tN AR RR te ere — Se / d - ‘ ~ ‘ ee nm te ne ne re re ei ieee ae RI ora tee ne permeate | Rar he Ae RE a SP ry negra ' ~~ y UPSALL. 265 of the English nobility placed Edward Baliol on the throne of that kingdom. In 1334, he was summoned to parliament as a baron, and attended from that period to the 15th of Richard IL., 1391. In 1344, he was engaged in the wars in France, under the command of the earl of Derby. ‘The year following he was one of the nobles who fought the battle of Neville’s Cross, in which David king of Scotland was defeated and taken prisoner. He died in 1391. His wife was Phillipa, daughter of Guido de Brien, whe died in 1406, and was buried in York Minster.* Their sons were Stephen, lord Masham and Upsall, and William, created earl of Wiltshire. Without direct evidence for fixing the date of the rebuilding of _ Upsall Castle from the style of its architecture, we should refer it to the age of the third Edward, and say that the work was begun by lord Geoffrey and completed by hisson Henry. The fragments that remain point it out as a structure of that period, when the gloomy fortress began to give place to the spacious hospitable mansion, embattled only for ornament, yet not entirely without _ the means of defence. “ As the necessity of defence and seclusion abated with the exigencies of the times, the palaces and great manor houses were constructed with more ornaments. These were ingrafted upon, or mixed with the ancient military manner of building. Towers at the angles were retained, but were now richly parapetted and embattled. Superb portals and gateways rose from the centre of the building, wide windows were perforated — through the external side walls, and the projecting, or bay win- dows, were worked into forms of most capricious embellishment.” From what remains, we can easily imagine, that in its age of * An inscription in St. Stephen’s Chapelin York Minster, extant in Leland’s time is decisive as to who was the wife of this Henry le Scrope, and when she died. Burke, ** Extinct and dormant Baronage,”’ p. 474, leaves her name blank, and afterwards in- serts her as the first wife of Sir Henry le Scrope, who was beheaded in 1415. ** Philippa, wife of Henry lord Scrope of Masham, daughter of Guy, lord Brien, died, Nov. 19, 1406.” 2 The following inscriptions relating to the Scrope family were also in the same place, *“Thomas de Masham, dominus le Scrope vir nobilis obiit. ..... f.... in facello S....duas cantarias.”’ ** Henry the eldest son of John lord Scrope, 1418.” ** Stephen le Scrope, Archdeacon of Richmond, died , 1418.” SE A ON ELE CO CE, A HRS EC REN SY A GAN OE ER A aE RL ER OAR NPR syne erga ed ~ 266 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. greatness, the castle of Upsall was a splendid monument of feudal — grandeur; surrounded by gardens and vineyards; the home pre-- cinct to the southward, occupied by a large park, and its turrets commanding extensive prospects over the wide and fertile vale of York. : Sir Stephen le Scrope, second baron of Masham and Upsall, was summoned to parliament from 23rd November, 1392, to 1st Jan- uary, 1406. He received the honour of knighthood in the life time of his father ; and distinguished himself both by sea and land. He married Margery, widow of John de Huntingfield, by whom he had four sons; Henry his successor; John, afterwards lord Scrope of Masham and Upsall; Stephen, Archdeacon of Richmond; and William. Sir Stephen died in 1406, possessed of large estates in the counties of Essex, Notts, Stafford, Lincoln, and York. Sir Henry le Scrope, third baron, was summoned to parliament from 26th August, 1408, to 26th September, 1414, as lord Scrope of Masham. In 1409, he was made treasurer of the King’s Exche- quer; and the next year, in consideration of his great abilities, and also the necessity of his presence in parliament and council, had assigned to him during his stay in London, the towns of Hampstead and Hendon in Middlesex, for lodging and entertain- ment of his servants and horses. | In the reign of Henry V., lord Scrope was appointed ambassador to treat with the French. The terms he offered were rejected by the French court; and Scrope himself was won over to become party in a conspiracy to kill the king; and to proclaim the earl of March in his stead. His confederates in this design being Richard, earl of Cambridge, who having espoused the sister of the earl of March, was zealous in the interests of that family, and sir Thomas Grey of Heaton. | In the latter end of July or beginning of August, 1415, when “the well appointed king was about to embark his royalty at Hampton pier,” the conspiracy was detected, the parties thereto at once acknowledged their guilt, and the king proceeded without delay to their trial and execution. ; yim Orn wee” ee ; ~ 7 a ee, 2. & Pond om — UPSALL. | 267 The head of Scrope was sent to York, to be placed over Mickle- gate Bar, as a warning to traitors; and a mandate came along with it, (yet preserved in the city’s oldest register), to the lord Mayor, to confiscate the estate and effects of the said Henry lord Serope. Scrope was a person in whom the king had such great confi- dence, that nothing of public or private concernment was done without him ; his gravity of countenance, modesty of deportment, and religious discourse, being always such, that whatsoever he advised. was held as the fiat of an oracle. Some historians relate that the conspirators were bribed by the French court to kill the king, and that they received a million of French livres as a reward for their treachery. This Sir Henry le Scrope married Joan, duchess of York, daughter of Thomas Holland earl of Kent. She had married first, Edmund Langley, Duke of York, fifth son of king Edward III. Secondly, William Lord Willoughby. Thirdly, Henry, Lord Scrope ; and surviving him, lastly, Henry Bromflete, Lord Vescy. Sir Henry left no issue, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir John le Scrope, who, on the death of his brother Stephen, Archdeacon of Richmond, in 1418, on doing his homage, had livery of his lands ; and immediately thereupon, by consent of the lords in parliament, obtained a grant from the king, of the farms and rents of all those lordships, which came to the crown by the attainder of his brother, to hold for four years. This Sir John le Scrope wrote himself of Masham and Upsall, and was summoned to parliament as lord Scrope of Masham and Upsall, from 7th January, 1426, to 26th May, 1455; having previously according to Nicolas, in 1421, obtained a restoration of his brother’s honours and inheritance. He was afterwards in high favour at court, and _ constituted treasurer of the King’s Exchequer. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Thomas Chaworth, and had issue John, who died in the life-time of his father, (buried in York Minster, in 1418); Thomas who succeeded him in the barony; and two daughters, Alianore and Elizabeth. Sir John died in 1456, and was succeeded by his son, nee = cee ae a: ER a ET 268 - THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Thomas le Scrope, fifth baron, who was summoned to parliament from 9th October, 1459, to 19th August, 1472. He was designed by his father to marry a daughter of lord Greystoke, but it does not appear that the marriage took place, nor is it certainly known to whom he was married. He left four sons, Thomas, Henry, Ralph, and Geoffrey, successively barons Scrope; and three daughters, Alice married to James Strangways, Esq.; Mary, who _ 9th Henry VIL., 1498, married Sir Christopher Danby of Thorpe Perrow, near Bedale; and Elizabeth, who married Sir Ralph Fitz Randolph of Spennithorn, knight. | Thomas le Serope died in 1475, and was succeeded in the barony by his eldest son, also named Thomas, then a minor. He was summoned to parliament from 15th November, 1482, to Aug. 12th, 1492. He married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of John Neville, Marquis of Montacute, by whom he had an only daughter Alice, who married her rela- tion, Henry, lord Scrope of Bolton. The font in the parish church of South Kilvington, bears the name of this lord Scrope and his wife. The general tradition is that it was removed from the chapel at Upsall Castle ; it is not unlikely that this baron repaired and renovated parts of his family mansion. His lordship died in 1494, and the barony then devolved upon his daughter Alice, wife of Lord Scrope of Bolton; but at her decease in 1501, it reverted according to Nicholas, to her ladyship’s uncle Sir Henry le Scrope, seventh baron, summoned to parliament, 28th November, 1511. His lordship leaving no issue, the barony came to his brother, Sir Ralph le Scrope, eighth baron, who had summons to par- liament in the 6th of Henry VIII. By his will bearing date, At. 1515, he bequeathed his body to be buried before our Lady of Pity in Rievaulx Abbey, shortly after which he died, for the pro- bate of his will bears date March 19th following—dying without issue, his brother, Geoffrey le Scrope, a cierk, succeeded to the barony, but was never summoned to parliament, who after enjoying the title about two years, died also childless, AX. 1517, in consequence of which ' i ~. UPSALL. 269 the estates became divided amongst his three married nieces, the daughters of Thomas le Scrope, sixth baron, and the title fell into abeyance amongst their posterity, where it yet continues. Thus the line of Scrope ceased to exist at Upsall, after a possession of nearly two hundred years, and we reluctantly bid adieu to that renowned race. Along with the kindred branch of Bolton, this family produced in the interval of 300 years :—two Earls, and: twenty Barons, one Chancellor, four Treasurers, and two Chief Justices of England, one Archbishop, two Bishops, five Knights of the Garter, and numerous Bannerets. And after the extinction of the two baronial lines of Bolton and Upsall, the blood of Scrope continued its illustrious course in the minor branches of Cockerington in Lincolnshire, and Danby in Wensley- dale, the last of which yet dwells near the spot where grew the stem, from which the many famous branches sprung. Here would we pause, and if we had the power survey the castle of Upsall as it was left by the Scropes, enter every room it contained. * From battlement to basement, From flanking tower to flanking tower,” And tell our readers what was in them all, so that they might know what the dwellings of England’s heroes were in the ages of feudal magnificence; but that we cannot do, no record of that kind has fallen into our hands; and time and violence have left but fragments of the walls, and tradition has but few stories to tell of the pomp and circumstance of its lordly owners. Before the western front lay the pleausance which were singularly rich and fertile, one portion was styled “ My Ladies Vineyard.”* * “There is no doubt the vine was very common until a few centuries ago, from the name of “ Vineyard” being so frequently attached to a plot of ground near to the ruinous sites of some of our Yorkshire Castles. In the 13th and 14th centuries every large castle and monastery in England had its vineyard. These vineyards were pro- bably continued till the time of the Reformation, when the ecclesiastical gardens were either neglected or destroyed; and about this period, ale, which had been known in England for many centuries, seems to have superseded the use of wine as a general beverage. The circumstances which produced this change were princi- pally the decay of the vineyards, the encouragement of the growth of grain, and the culture of hops; which offered a beverage to the people much cheaper and abit as exhilarating.” a ne ee += cae RL TR Se ea Re enna “— - 270 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Another bore the name of “ St. Cecilia’s Grove,” (were some of the ladies Scrope devotees of music and selected this spot to imi- tate the strains of their divine patroness?) In the grounds was also a maze or labyrinth, known by the name of “the Puzzle Bush.” A large weeping elm which grew in the garden was called “ Rosalind’s Bower.” ** the pleached bower, Where honeysuckles ripen’d by the sun, Forbid the sun to enter.”’ The Park extending over hill and vale to a considerable dis- tance, was fazaous for its red deer. : It is singular, that though the Scropes were owners of. all Mashamshire they never had a seat in the parish of Masham; Clifton, their nearest residence is in the parish of Watlass, but Clifton as we learn from Leland, was only a tower or castlet, so that their general residence must have been at Upsall.* On the division of the estates in 1520, amongst the three daughters of Thomas le Scrope, sixth baron, Upsall Castle, with the manor and estate thereunto belonging, fell to the share of Elizabeth, wife of Sir Ralph Fitz Randolph, knight, of Spenni- thorn ;t by whom she had one son, who died in his father’s life- time, and five daughters. On the demise of Lady Fitz Randolph, she devised the manor and castle of Upsall to her youngest daughter Agnes, wife of Sir Marmaduke Wyvill. t Sir Marmaduke Wyvill, was M.P. for the borough of Ripon in the year 1553, he was three times married, and by his first wife Agnes he left a son and heir, Christopher Wyvill, Esq., who inherited Upsall and the family * Whitaker’s Richmondshire, Vol. ii., p. 105. + The family of Fitz Randolph came originally from Normandy with William I., on his invasion of England, and settled in Yorkshire in that age. + This family (of knightly degree since the conquest) is of Norman extraction, of the name of Vienville, which family was in being in France in 1848. Sir Humphrey a’ Wyvill, came into England with William the Conqueror; his name is found in- scribed on the roll of Battle Abbey. He acquired a fair share of the spoils of the conquest and seated himself in Yorkshire, where his descendants the Wyvills of Constable Burton, represented by Marmaduke Wyvill, Esq., M.P., remain to this day. SS ee eee ae ee we . we aa | UPSALL. 271 estates ; he married Margaret, daughter of the Hon. John Scrope, younger son of Henry Lord Scrope of Bolton, by Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland. From causes which we are unable to explain, Upsall passed from Christopher Wyvill into the hands of the crown, and was by Queen Elizabeth, in 1577, granted to John Farnham, with a re- served rent to the crown of 40/. per annum for holding the castle. The original grant is yet in possession of Captain Turton, the present owner of Upsall. Early in the reign of James I., the castle and estate of Upsall were owned by Joseph Constable, Esq., son of Sir John Constable of Burton Constable, in the East Riding of this county, who married Mary, daughter of Thomas Crathorn, Esq., and had issue, John, born in 1583; Joseph, an officer in the royalist army, slain at Cropready Bridge, 1645 ; Anevilla, baptised at South Kilvington,* she married in 1610, Thomas Smith, Esq., of Egton Bridge, near Whitby ; and Mary married to William Tocketts, Esq., of Tocketts Hall, near Guisborough. _ John Constable, eldest son of the above Joseph Constable, be- came possessed of Upsall. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph Cresswell of Nunkeeling and Doddington, Esq., and had issue, Joseph and Rodolphus; the latter of whom resided here in 1610. John Constable during the civil wars of the seventeenth century, was a firm supporter of the royal cause. In 1642, he raised and equipped several troops of horse among his tenants and neighbours,{ and drilled and manceuvred them on Knayton and Upsall commons. He was a most accomplished cavalry officer, a fearless rider, and good swordsman. His life was one ** Of moving accidents by flood and field ; Of hair breadth ’scapes i’ the imminent deadly breach.” He fought at Marston Moor, and after the overthrow of the royal cause, knowing himself obnoxious to the ruling power, he fled to Holland, where, after an exile of a few years, he died of a broken * “1589, Anevilla filia Josephi Constable; Upsall baptizata fuit, Jan. lo.” t “1610, Robertus filius Radulphi Constable, Upsall Milet. bap. erat, Feb- ruarii 100.”—South Kilvingion Parish Reg. + Echard’s History, and Parl Tracts, in the library of Captain Turton. + “ Captaia Turton has an excellent portrait of this officer in armour. ~~ a ee LE CO CL lar res Si Sci iloenndohsime sat canteen hesteidechnioahasosentg pth 272 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. heart.* He is said to have left a curse on any owner of Upsall who should prove disloyal to his king and‘country. Besides a son Joseph, he left two daughters, Everild, who accompanied her father in his exile, and Elizabeth. Joseph Constable, Eisq., was the next owner of Upsall, of whom very little is known. . We next find the manor and estate of Upsall in possession of William Constable, Viscount Dunbar, who married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Hugh, second Lord Clifford of Chudleigh, but having no issue by her, his estates, in virtue of a special entail, de- volved on his nephew, Cuthbert Tunstall, Esq. ; who in 1718, assumed by royal sign manuel the name of Constable. He married Amy, daughter of Hugh, Lord Clifford of Ugbrooke, and had issue, William, who died in infancy ; enother William, born in 1722; Cecilia, born in 1724; and Winefrid, born in 1730, died May 23rd, 1774. Cuthbert Constable died March 14th, 1747, aged 66, and was buried at Halsham; he was succeeded by his eldest surviving son, William Constable, Esq., who in the year 1768, sold the castle and estate of Upsall, to William weg e Esq., of Stockton-on- . Tees, who shortly afterwards re-sold it to John Turton, Esq., of Brasted Park in the county of Kent. This last gentleman was a physician of considerable eminence, — and enjoyed the personal friendship and esteem of many of the leading and learned men of his time; amongst whom may be named the King and Queen, the Prince of Wales afterwards King George IV.; Henry, ninth earl of Newcastle ; William, first earl of Mansfield (a splendid portrait of this nobleman is yet possessed by the Turton family) ; Shenston, the poet, and Sheridan, | the brilliant wit and orator. In his youth he entertained a * During Constable’s exile in Holland, he compiled a treatise in the style of the Icon Basilike, and The Princely Pelican, said to have been written by the king—of this treatise we are not aware of any remains, except the theme or heading— *¢ Rebus in adversis facile est contemnere vitam, Fortiter ille fecit qui miser esse potest.” a a i a ne a * a a = EN ED RN tection r meinatiee ne a ee A LC TS A TTL oe A oe ap ee Ae HR eR Ca ae ee ARR RR AE A LAL LT RG SA RN RE = UPSALL. 273 romantic affection for the princess Mary, afterwards Duchess of Gloucester.* He subsequently married Mary, daughter of Kitchingman, Esq., but had no issue. On the decease of his wife he bequeathed the estates of Brasted in Kent, Upsall, Roxby, Olstead, and Larpool Hall, near Whitby, in Yorkshire, to Edmund, third son of the Rev. William Peters, M.A., F.R.S.; + who, * The following extracts from the Globe, and Times’ newspapers refer to this ro- mantic attachment, '“ We can state on authority that the paragraph that has been going the round ef the press, that the late Dr. Turton left the whole of his immense revenues to the lamented Duchess of Gloucester, is untrue. Dr. Turton, although an intimate friend of all the royal family, and physician in ordinary to George II!., and H.R.H. Prince of Wales, bequeathed the whole of his immense fortune, barring a few legacies, to his wife, from whom it passed to the late Edmund Turton, Esq., of Brasted Park, Kent, and Kildale, Yorkshire; and is now possessed by Captain Turton, 3rd Dragoon Guards, who married the Lady Cecilia Leeson, eldest daughter of the Earl of Mill- town, of Russborough, county of Wicklow.”—The Globe, Muy 7th, 1857. ** Amongst the incidents otf Her Royal Highness’s (the late Duchess of Gloucester) early life, may be mentioned the romantic attachment entertained for her by Dr. Turton, of Brasted Park, a celebrated physician of the last century; but the state- ment of his having bequeathed his property to the illustrious object of his affection is altogether untrue.”’—The Times, May, 1857. + The Rev. W. Feters was rector of Knipton-Woolsthorpe, in Leicestershire, Pre- bendary of Lincoln, and Chaplain to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, after- wards king George lV. He married Margaret, daughter and coheiress of the Rev. John Knowsley, M.A., of Burton Flemming in the East Riding of Yorkshire, and hhad by her three sons and two daughters. He was also a painter of considerable note, and a favourite pupil of Sir Joshua Reynolds. Among his works yet preserved by his descendants are some exquisite portraits—‘*‘ The Merry Wives of Windsor,” which has had an extended reputation, and been repeatedly engraved, and many others. The sarcastic Peter Pindar composed the following ode on “ The Angel and Cnild,”’ one of his productions— I. “© Dear Peters! who like Luke the Saint, A man of gospel art and paint, Thy pencil flames, not with poetic fury ! If Heaven’s fair Angels are like thine, Our bucks methinks—O Grave Divine! May meet in th’ other world the nymphs of Drury. i That infant seul I do not much admire, It boasteth somewhat more of flesh than fire, The picture Peters, cannot much adorn ye— I’m glad though that the red faced little sinner, Poor soul! hath made a hearty dinner, Before it ventured on so long a journey.” In Captain Turton’s possession is also a copy of Carlo Dolce’s famous picture, “ The Salvator Mundi,’”’ which Mr. Peters truthfully copied, through permission of the Earl of Exeter, when on a visit to that nobleman at Burghley House. Ss A a er AN aR TAO O. REE es ee nr rr en re eee sonceneediheeeemenenmenentiipeenetemereemeemerieetommnnns seneeee tre a ee a tren 274 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. when he became seized of the estates thus left him, assumed the name of Turton. : Edmund Turton, Esq., was born April 27th, 1796. In 1817, on being presented with the freedom of the borough of Hedon, he gave to the burgesses the sum of 200 guineas, and to the Church © of St. Augustine’s in that town, a large and handsome silver com- munion cup. * In the following year he stood a contest for the representation of Hedon in parliament, and was returned at the head of the poll. He married in April, 1822, Marianne, only daughter and heiress of Robert Bell Livesey, Esq., (second surviving son of the late Ralph Bell, Esq., of the Hall, Thirsk), by Jane his wife, daughter of the Rev. Dr. Clever of Mal'on ; he had issue, Edmund Henry, of whom hereafter. Marianne Teresa Livesey, married in 1848, to Multon, eldest son of William Lambarde, Esq., Beech Mount, county of Kent, and has issue, John Bell, Multon, Louisa, and Helen Grace. Robert Consitt, born 1827, died 1831, buried at Kildale. Edmund Turton, Esq., was a magistrate and deputy-lieutenant for the North Riding of Yorkshire, also a magistrate for the county of Kent. On his decease, March 18th, 1857, his estates with the exception of Brasted Park, passed to his only surviving son, Edmund Henry, an officer in the third Dragoon Guards, who was born in 1825, and married July, 1856, the Lady Cecilia Mary, eldest daughter of Joseph, fifth earl of Milltown, K.P. of Russborough in the county of Wicklow, and has issue, Edmund Russborough, born November Ist, 1857. He is a magistrate and deputy-lieutenant for the North Riding of Yorkshire. Arms of Turton—first and fourth quarterings, rm. Ten trefoils vert. Second, a rampant lion between three trefoils Arg. Third per chevron azure and sable, a chevron engrailed with plain cottises between three bells argent, impaled gules. A chief Arg. in the lower part of a cloud, the rays of the sun issuing therefrom * Poulson’s Seigniory of Holdernes, Vol. ii., p. 175. pai | a 1 ee eee _ — ney nee a achat idarnstmatttaa A At mm i tanner ae me tre ne aR At nth ae cutie hem tee Nem nee UPSALL. 275 Ppr. Crest.—Out of a mural coronet Arg. a cubit arm habited vert cuffed of the first, the hand proper, holding a banner per fesse Arg. and Vert. the fringe counter changed, trefoil in centre. Motto.— formosa que honesta. Having traced the succession of the different owners of Upsall, we now turn to its present state. We have no authentic account of the destruction of the castle, nor even of the time when it was deserted by its owners and left to crumble into ruin. Tradition asserts that it was destroyed in the civil wars of the seventeenth cen- tury, and that the cannon of Cromwell from the hill to the north called the Barff, carried destruction into its venerable walls; but there is nothing to confirm this story, and the probability is against it. Yetitis not unlikely that the mansion was deserted and began to fall to decay about that time ; and ever since the process of ruin has been going on; the walls have formed a quarry from which stone has been taken for ali kinds of purposes on the estate; and the work of demolition has become at length so complete, that we must come almost to the spot before we can identify the place where the home of the Upsalls, the Scropes, and the Constables once stood. It has been of a square form, with an open court in the centre, and towers at the angles. The walls have been little more than three feet in thickness, yet of excellent masonry and well cemented. If we may judge from what remains, both inside and out have been of polished stone. The towers at the south-east, and north- west corners have apparently been square; the most perfect frag- ment of a tower is at the north-west corner, of an octagonal form, which probably contained the best rooms in the whole building, while its windows commanded the most extensive and beautiful prospects. The highest remaining part of the wall is on the north side, from ten to fifteen feet in height; exhibiting part of an arched gateway, (now walled up), high enough to admit a man on horseback. ‘This has been the main entrance from a court yard, or outer baily, the foundations of which may yet be traced ex- tending to the road, close to the village of Upsall. A farm house occupies the site of the north-eastern angle tower, and has been —__ ; ————————— OR A RT A RA SAP 9 TNE A SSSR SS, AP Yo HS Sta ae Aa one ee menses eS someenveatuen denreeron-owe 276 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. built from the ruins of the castle. The eastern side is now hidden by a range of farm buildings. Part of the barn is old and the rest has been formed out of the castle walls. The south-eastern tower has projected considerably from the side walls, and has been very massive. The southern side is about sixty-four yards in length, and the western about fifty-eight yards. The walls on these two sides have been demolished to ‘within four or five feet of the soil.* The whole of the interior is now occupied by farm buildings and a stackvard. Yet from its height above the surrounding fields, it is evident that a careful excavation would reveal the kitchen, vaults, store rooms, and perhaps the dungeons of the castle. The traditions of the place relate that such have some- times been laid open by accident; as once, the occupier of the farm having the misfortune to lose a favourite cow, determined to bury the defunct animal in the stackyard, and had a grave dug for that purpose; after much labour among the hard rubbish, a hole of sufficient capacity was made, and the animal rolled into it, when the sudden shock of its weight broke through the bottom of the grave, and it disappeared “in a lower deep still.” A large stack of chimneys stood within living memory near the corner of the thrashing machine shed. | Many fragments of arms and armour have at different times been found in and about the castle, as swords, spear heads, knife blades, fragments of iron of various kinds; a curious gold ring which was sold by the finder to a jeweller at York for old gold, a brass mortar, in what is called the Woodfield in the Park, which will hold about three pints and weighs twelve or fourteen pounds ; — the metal is nearly an inch thick; it was carried to Kildale Hall, where it yet remains; a leaden ornament or seal, about an inch * The work of demolition at Upsall Castle has been chiefiy carried on in modern times,.as appears by the following extract from Camden’s Britania, Vol. iii., p. $4. ** At the foot of Kirkby Knole are the remains of Upsall Castle, once the seat of the lords Scrope of Upsall: the outer walls and round towers, and part of a large square tower yet remains.” In an excelient painting of the castle, made by the Rev. W. Peters about the be- ginning of this century, lately preserved at Brasted Park, Kent, there appears to have been a great deal more of the walls standing than at present. aera aa ee a ete -_ — - UPSALL. 277 in diameter, bearing a robed figure in alto relief on the lower part, and three radii proceeding from its head towards three naked figures above; a small silver coin, on the obverse a lady’s head with the word “Plantella,” and another word partly obliterated re- sembling “Augusta”; on the reverse two draped figures standing, grasping each others hand, below them is written CONCORDIA ETERNZ” ; a silver penny, of one of the Edwards, sundry brass counters, and many other small coins and ancient relics. In 1849, the late John Curry and his son, when digging for lime- stone, in a field within the park near the “pale dike,” found a skeleton, only a few inches below the surface, more than six feet in length, with the teeth perfectly sound, evidently the remains of a young and powerful man. Far more important discoveries than these have been made within the circuit of the ruined walls of Upsall if se tells truth, for here was found the genuine “ Crocks of Gold.” Many years ago there resided in the village of Upsall, a man who dreamed three nights successively, that if he went to London Bridge he would hear of something greatly to his advantage. He went, travelling the whole distance from Upsall to London on foot, arrived there he took his station on the bridge, where he waited until his patience was nearly exhausted, and the idea that he had - acted a very foolish part began to rise in his mind. At length he was accosted by a Quaker, who kindly enquired what he was waiting there so long for. After some hesitation, he told his dreams. The Quaker laughed at his simplicity, and told him that he had had that night a very curious dream himself, which was, that if he went and dug under a certain bush in Upsall Castle in Yorkshire, he would find a pot of gold; but he did not know where Upsall was,-and enquired of the countryman if he knew, who seeing some advantage in secrecy pleaded ignorance of the locality ; and then thinking his business in London was completed, returned immediately home, dug beneath the bush, and there he found a pot filled with Ne and on the cover an et nee nc een | 278 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. | inscription in a language he did not understand. The pot and cover were however preserved at the village inn; where one day a bearded stranger like a Jew, made his appearance, saw the pot, and read the inscription, the plain English of which was -* Look lower, where this stood Is another twice as good.”’ The man of Upsall hearing this, resumed his spade, returned to the bush, dug deeper, and found another pot filled with gold far more valuable than the first: encouraged by this he dug deeper still, and found another yet more valuable. This story has been related of other places, but Upsall appears to have as good a claim to this yielding of hidden treasure as the best of them. Here we have the constant tradition of the inhabitants, and the identical bush yet remains beneath which the treasure © was found; an Elder, near the north-west corner of the ruins.* A subterraneous passage is said to exist between the site of this castle and the mansion of New Building on the hill above. About forty years ago, a quantity of lead piping was dug up by the tenant and sold to a plumber in Thirsk, which had evidently con- veyed water from a spring on the hill side into the interior of the castle. | The fish ponds can yet be traced in a field on the south-east of the farm yard by their lower level, and the richer green of the grass growing there; they have been four in number. The hollow of the moat, apparently about ten feet wide, is yet to be seen on the south of the castle. The Park is surrounded by an ancient mound called the ‘pale — dike.” Along one side of this dike is a paved road, about four — feet wide leading towards Thirsk. A proof of the antiquity of the park is that it was possessed of the “bow rake,” “ which conferred * A writer in the Illustrated London News, thus speaks of these stories and their origin. ; ** The legend of the discovery of ‘ three crocks of gold’ in Upsall Castle through adream is not singular to the Vale of Mowbray; the same legend occurs at two places in Ireland; one in Scotland, as weli as at Swaffham in Norfolk. Evidently they all originate from India, the fountain head, not only of mythologies and philoso- phies, but of the traditions and folk-lore of the human race.” ee) ie eee UPSALL. 279 on the owner of the park, by an old feudal law, a right of range, to the extent of a bowshot beyond the limits of his manor.” The Park lands are held by the present owner under a rent _ charge of 40/. per annum, payable to Charles Tancred, Esq., of . Arden Hall and his heirs, which is popularly said to be contingent on the existence of a part of Arden Nunnery. This is the 40/. per ann. reserved to the crown in the grant of the manor and eastle of Upsall, from Queen Elizabeth to John Farnham, in 1577; which royalty was purchased from the crown by one of the Tanered family, in 1623. The payments are due on the 29th of September, and the 25th of March in every year. The Park was disparked in 1599, and in a book given by W. Constable, Esq., to W. Chapman, it is said to have been surveyed in 1578, and found to contain 660 acres of fine meadow and pasture. By a survey made of the whole estate, in 1773, the area of the whole estate was found to be 1233a. 37. 22p., and that of the park d97a. 3r. 14y., besides the old castle and orchard, and an out boundary round the park, in some places about eight or nine yards wide in others less, called Pale Dike, adjoining Filliskirk, Kirkby Knowle, and Thornbrough. “ From the time whereof the memory of man is not to the con- 3 trary, there hath been paid, and payable, and ought to be paid, to the Rector of the parish of South Kilvington, in the county of York, for the time being, his farmer, tenant, or tithegatherer there, by the owner of the lands or grounds, heretofore called, or known by the name of Upsall Park, for the time being yearly, one Buck in the Summer season, and one Doe in the Winter season, on de- mand. And also grass or pasture for one gelding or mare of such Rector or of his farmer, on the same lands or some part thereof for all the year, in lieu and satisfaction of all tithes what- soever yearly, coming, growing, arising, or renewing from of the said ground.” During Chapman’s ownership of Upsall, a law suit took place between him and the Rev. Mr. Piper, rector of Kil- _ vington, when it was decided that the park lands were freed from tithes by the above payments. After the buck and doe had ceased to graze the herbage of the yr 280 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. park, and the land was divided into farms and cultivated, a money payment of 3/. 6s. 8d. was received by the rectors of Kilvington, in lieu thereof. August 29th, 1723, a new agreement was made about the buck, doe, and horse gait, between Cuthbert Constable, Esq., lord of the manor of Upsall, and the Rev. Walter Chambre, then rector of South Kilvington, by which 4/. a year was to be paid, at four quarterly payments. The Rev. Francis Henson, Senr., when rector received again the buck and doe, and his old black mare was pastured on the park lands. In 1779, it was mutually agreed between the owner of Upsall, and the rector of South Kilvington, that a modus of 5/. 16s. 10d. should be substituted in place of all claims. At the tithe commutation, July, 1849, the old custom and modus were alike extinguished, and a money pay- ment substituted for all tithes and moduses. One of the farm houses in the park bears the name of “ Nevi- son’s Hall,” and tradition reports that the famous Yorkshire freebooter, William Nevison, was born here. This is, however, uncertain, as both Pontefract and Wortley claim the honour of his birth. He was notorious during the reign of Charles II., and named by the “merry monarch” Swzft Nick, on account of his unparalleled feats of horsemanship. On one occasion having — committed a robbery near London about sunrise, and finding him- self known, fled to York, which he reached the same day before sunset, having ridden the whole distance on one mare. ‘This wonderful expedition saved his life, for, though he was appre- hended, and the witnesses swore positively to him; yet proving himself on the Bowling Green before sunset, neither judge nor jury would believe them, and he was acquitted. He is generally spoken of by the people as one of the Robin Hood class, “ who robbed the rich to feed the poor.”* Yorkshire * Thus it was related of William Nevison the great robber of the North of York- shire, that he levied a quarterly tribute on all the northern drovers, and in return not only spared them himself, but protected them against all other thieves; that he demanded purses in the most courteous manner; that he gave largely to the poor what he had taken from the rich; that his life was once spared by the royal clem- ency, but that he again tempted his fate, and at length died in 1685 on the gallows at York.” —Macaulay’s Hist. of England, Vol. J., p. 380. fn i i RE a rn oer aan eens ations ee hte ht ner Ne cient th RON ACCC! LCG CO et A CT te et UPSALL. 281 appears to have been the chief scene of his exploits; and many places in the county yet bear his name. He was at length apprehended in a public house at “ Sandal three Houses,” near Wakefield, by Captain Hardcastle, and hanged at York, May 4th, 1685. He appears to have been a man of extraordinary strength and courage, and his name is yet preserved in “tale and song” by the villagers of Yorkshire, though nearly 200 years have elapsed since he expiated his crimes on the gallows. The irons by which he was confined, of great weight and strength, are yet preserved in the Museum of horrid weapons in York Castle. - The House, which bears his name, is one of the better class of farm houses, and was probably built during the time of Charles II., and then would be one of the best houses of its class in the neighbourhood. It was occupied (and probably built) by a person of the name of Nevison: at one end are the initials I. N., in iron, at the other two pieces of curved iron, like two gigantic horse shoes, which legends say were those of the horse of the noted robber, and that in a snow he reversed them to delude his pur- suers. In the cellar, a small, dark, damp room, he is said to have secreted himself from pursuit and danger. Behind the front door until very recently, hung a large bridle bit, said to have belonged to the robber. A parlour in the house is wainscotted with deal, similar to a room in the farm house at Upsall, which has pro- bably in both cases been taken from the castle. The family of Nevison appears to have become extinct here in the early part of the last century. The following entries in the Parish Register of South Kilvington are the only ones in which any of them are mentioned. ‘1711. Elizabeth y® Daughter of Mr. Will. Nevesson, Bapt. Nov. 7.” ‘©1720. Mr. Wm. Nevinson, bur. March 26,’’ The prefix Mr. indicates that Nevison was a gentleman; as in the register, with slight exceptions, it is only given to clergymen. The village or hamlet of Upsall is immediately behind the site of the castle, and consists of a few farm houses, cottages, and the 282 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. “Greyhound” hostelry. In the middle of the village green, for- merly stood a cross, consisting of an upright shaft, about four feet high by two feet square, supported by three or four large blocks below. The stones are now level with the ground, but stood up- right within living memory. ‘Tradition says the “green” is paved beneath the soil, and that a market was formerly held upon it. The hill rising behind the village, from which the stone for the erection of the castle was obtained, yet bears the Scandinavian name of “ Barf,” (a detached low ridge or hill); northward from which extends the ancient boundary between Upsall and Kirkby Knowle, called “ Brounmordikes,” or the “ double dikes,” crossing Woolmoor, the ancient “ Ulnesmote.” At one corner of the castle farm-house is a large block of genta of several tons weight, one of those water worn erratic boulders, which are found scattered nearly all over North Yorkshire, and which some mighty force, at an unknown period, has torn from their parent bed in the Cumbrian Alps. An hypothesis has been raised that this block has been an altar to some of the Scandinavian deities, who were worshipped at this place. The present owner of the estate mentioned the subject to many of his learned friends in London and Dublin, who quite entered into such a view of the subject. The population of Upsall is on the decrease: in 1821 it was returned at 118, in 1831 at 114, in 1841 at 116, and in 1851 at 84. A Re ee A COWSBY. 283 COWSBY. CowspBy* is a small Village situate on the plain close to the foot of the Hambleton Hills, a fine bend of the mountain enclosing it on three sides, north, east, and south. It is seven miles from Thirsk and nine from Northallerton. The Cuurcu, dedicated to St. Michael and All Angels, was re- built in 1846, in the Norman style of architecture; the tower, placed at the junction of the nave and chancel, is surmounted by a square blunt spire, covered with slate. There are no monu- ments of any kind within; and only the following inscription against the north wall of the chancel. George Llopd, Lsq,, babing made a bequest towards the rebuilding of Cosby Church, his GAtdow and children in com- pliance With Dis intentions, and out of reqard to bis memory, erected this fabric, A.B. 1846, with the atd of the WBarishioners.” The large and elegant font belonged to the old church, is of Saxon architecture, and very ancient. The architect was the refined and elegant Mr. Salvin; also architect for Cowsby Hall. On a tomb in the churchyard, somewhat like a Roman stone coffin, is inscribed— ‘** George Lloyd, Esquire, only son of Thomas Lloyd, Esquire, died July 25th, 1844, aged 58 years. Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord !’’ * Sometimes written Cowesby, and Colesby—the name is evidently derived from ** Cow,” and the Scandinavian “ by,” a farm or village—that is the Cow’s farm, or in modern phrase the dairy farm. ep si ES ER A SSS rl SSS ssn Sh =A ar TS SSP Hs eps sg onl emusic a A SS SS SS ASTD reer re et aren 284 : THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The living is an ancient Rectory. In 1301, it was in the patro- nage of the Folyots. In 1324, Alphonsus de Veer, Kt., presented. In 1349, John de Camoys, Kt. In 1364, Hugo Hasting, Kt. In 1373, William de la Lee, Kt. In 1404, Henry Vavasour. In 1443, Isabella Burgh. In 1541, M. Constable asszgnator of Thomas Burgh. In 1568, John Palmer first presented, which family last presented in 1665. In 1716, Lord Crewe presented ; and in 1733, the Alstons of Odell,* Baronets, first presented. Present patron, | Thomas William Lloyd, Esq., Cowsby Hall. The present rector | is the Rev. Vere Alston, also rector of Odell in Bedfordshire, and. the Rev. John Oxlee of Upper Silton, the curate. In the Valor. of Pope Nicholas (1291) the benefice was valued | at 5/. per ann., and twenty-six years after at 2/. In Bacon’s Liber Regis it stands thus :-— “ Living discharged. Clear yearly value 31/. 10s. 0d. King’s Books 5/. 11s 03d. Cowsby, alias Cousby. R.in Alvertonshire. Of exempt jurisdiction. Val.in mans. cum und bovat terr. gleb. | ibidem per ann. 10s. decim. garb, &c. Lord Crew 1716. Sir | Rowland Alston, Bart., 1733, 1757.” | | | In 1818, the living was returned at 65/. per ann. The present gross annual value is 150/., made up thus:—Tithe Commutation | 1287. Modus paid by the owner of Kepwick for certain lands in that township (on which there is no house) but within the parish * The family of Alston of Odell, formerly the proprietors and lords of the manor of Cowsby, derive their pedigree from William Alston, who flourished in the reign of king Edward I. Sir Thomas Alston, Knt. of Odell, in the county of Bedford, high sheriff in 1641, was created a baronet by king Charles I,, 13th June, 1642. He died in 1671, and was succeeded by his only surviving son, | Thomas, who married Temperance, second daughter of Thomas second Lord Crewe, by whom he had Thomas and Rowland, his successors, and three daughters. Sir Thomas his son, died unmarried in 1714, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir Rowland Alston, M.P. for the county of Bedford, in three parliaments. He wedded Elizabeth, only daughter of Capt. Thomas Raynes, and had two sons and two daughters— Sir Thomas his eldest son, M.P. for the county of Bedford, died without issue, July 1&th, 1774, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir Rowland Alston, who died without issue, June 29th, 1790, aged 64, when the title became extinct. The present representative of the Alston family is Crewe Alston, rte .» Of Odell Castle, Bedfordshire, COWSBY. 285 of Cowsby, 27. The Rectory house and glebe land 20/. per ann. The Rectory house is situate in the village of Cowsby, and is distinguished by a sun-dial over the door. The Register Books commence in 1679. The township, which is co-extensive in area with the manor of Cowsby, contains 1165a. Or. dp. of land, and the parish, which includes the lands in Kepwick, charged with the 2/. a-year above mentioned, makes the total of the parish (according to the map of the Ordnance Survey) 1293a. Or. 5p. Of the 1165 acres in the township of Cowsby, about 820 are cultivated—the remainder is Moors, Woods, Intakes, and Roads. The number of inhabitants in 1851 was 97, and the assessed property in the township was 596/. _ In the village is a Hospital, consisting of a low antique building divided into four cottages. The persons liable to the benefits of this charity must be four reduced tenants in Cowsby and of the Lord of the manor of Cowsby. Each beneficient is entitled to the use of a cottage and garden, and an egual fourth share of a rent charge of 10/. per annum. This Hospital was founded by - Nathaniel Lord Crewe, the precise date not known, but most probably about the middle of the seventeenth century. Lord Crewe held the See of Durham from 1674 to 1721. It was only after the decease of his elder brothers, and their issue, without male heirs, that he became a lord temporal as well as spiritual. He died Sep. 18th, 1722, in the 88th year of his age. The pa- tronage of the Hospital was subsequently held by the family of Alston, and now by T. W. Lloyd, Esq., of Cowsby Hall. The following entry in Domesday appears to refer to this place: *‘ Lands of Hugh the son of Baldric. North Riding. Gerlestre Wapontake. Manor. In Cahosbi, Gamel had three carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to one plough. Girrard, a vassal of Hugh’s, has there seven villanes having four ploughs. Coppice wood four quarantens long, and the same broad. The whole manor one mile long, and four quarentens broad. Value in King Edward’s time five shillings, and the same now.”* > * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 198. 286 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Cowsby Hall is an elegant stone mansion in the Tudor style of architecture, erected in the year 1832, by the late George Lloyd, Esquire, from a design by Mr. Salvin. It is situated in a pleasant but rather lonely place in the northern curve of a circular recess of the Hambleton Hills, which shelter it from the north and east winds, leaving it open to the sunshine of the south and the breezes of the west. The hills on the north and east sides rise around it like an amphitheatre; the bottom is meadow and cultivated ground; the sides are covered with woods and plantations, above which rises the wild healthy moor. ** thick groves mantling round A tranquil amphitheatre, fenced off From the world’s cares by those huge battlements.” In the entrance Hall is a full-length portrait of Thomas Lloyd, Esq., Lieut.-Colonel Commandant of the Loyal Leeds Volunteers, presented by the officers of that corps to Mrs. Lloyd in 1802. This family is a junior branch of the Lloyds of Acomb and Sewerby in this county, and although long settled in the North Riding of Yorkshire, are believed to derive their lienage from the Lloyds of Llanynys in the county of Denbigh. : George Lloyd, F.R.S., D.L., only child of Gamaliel Lloyd, a re- spected merchant of Manchester, married Eleanor, eldest daughter of Henry Wright, Esq., of Offerton in Cheshire, by Purefoy, daughter of Sir Willoughby Aston, Bart., and had issue an only child— John, F.R.S., who married, firstly Anne, daughter and heiress of James Hibbins, Esq., M.D., and had two sons who both died s.p., and one daughter ; Mr. Lloyd married secondly Susannah, daughter of Thomas Horton, Esq., of Chadderton in Lancashire, (sometime governor of the Isle of Man), and had issue, Gamaliel, Alderman of the town of Leeds, and Mayor in 1799. He married Elizabeth, daughter of James Attwood, Esq., and died August 31st, 1817,in Great Ormond Street, London, leaving issue, I. William Horton, F.L.S., born Feb. 10th, 1784, married April, 1826, Mary, youngest daughter of George Whitelock, Esq., and had issue one son, the present Whitelocke Lloyd, Esquire. eae eee eee ee eS ee wi er COWSBY. 287 II. George, of Acomb.—See Burke’s Landed Gentry. III. Thomas, of Horsforth Hall, Lieut.-Colonel Commandant of the Loyal Leeds Volunteers, who died at Kingthorpe House, near Pickering, April 7th, 1828, having married Anne daughter of Walker Wade, Esq., of New Grange, Co. of York, leaving issue, an only son, | George, of Cowsby, born May 25th, 1786, who married firstly, Marian, fifth daughter of Alexander Maclean, Esq., of Coll. in Argyllshire, by whom he had no issue. She died in 1821. Mr. Lloyd married secondly June 7th, 1815, Elizabeth, daughter of William Sergeantson, Esq., of Camp Hill, near Ripon, and had issue thirteen children, among whom Thomas William, the present owner of Cowsby Hall and Manor. George Walter, an officer in the Royal navy, now alive.—(See Murray’s Navy List). John George, an officer of the 2nd West York Militia, who died in 1856, and is buried in Cowsby churchyard. Caroline Anne, Marianne Jane, &c. &e. George Lloyd, Esq. died July 25th, 1844, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Thomas William Lloyd, Esq., who is a Magistrate, and Deputy Lieutenant for the North Riding of Yorkshire. He married in 1849, Elizabeth Ann daughter of Francis Beynon Hackett, Esq., of Moor Hall, Warwickshire; but has no issue. | Arms.—Or, three lions dormant in pale, sable. CrresT.—A demi arm in scale armour, the hand naked, proper, the cuff argent, grasping a lizard, vert. ee Co Se ee SS ee { 288 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. THORNTON-LE-STREET. THORNTON-LE-STREET is a Village and Parish, three miles north of Thirsk, on the high road leading to Northallerton,fand also, Gif we may judge from its name and position) on the ancient Roman road, which crossed the forest of Galtres, from Eboracum in this direction to the north. From the great number of places bearing the name of Thornton in this county, it is somewhat difficult to appropriate them pro- perly and say what was the state of this place, or who was its owner at the time of the Domesday survey. It is probable that the following entry may belong to it, under the head of “Land of Robert Mallet, Alvertone Wapontake. Manor. In Torentone, Edmund had five carucates of land to be taxed. It is now waste.’’* The manor, however, shortly afterwards seems to have reverted to the crown, when it was given to the See of Durham: as from Kirkby’s Inquest (1279) we find that this town contained six carucates of land, which the Bishop of Durham held of the King in capite, for half a knight’s fee,and no rent. In the seventeenth century the manor was held by the Talbots of Wood End, more recently by the family of Crompton, and is now the property of Lord Greenock. * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc. p. 157. ey KC LC TL CL CC CT CCL CL - ee SE ae THORNTON-LE-STREET. 289 The village does not present any features of particular interest. The country around is pleasant and well cultivated; the lands near the river Codbeck are of excellent quality, mostly in grass, and well adapted for the feeding of cattle; other parts of the township are richly wooded, particularly about the mansion of Wood End. = The CHURCH (dedicated to St. Leonard) is a small Early English fabric, recently restored in the style of architecture in which it was ’ originally built, consisting of a nave, chancel, porch, and vestry, with a turret containing two bells on the western gable. The porch is new, as is also the vestry, a small projecting building on the north side of the chancel. The windows on the south side are single and double lights alternately, narrow, with trefoil heads. A buttress marks the junction of the nave and chancel. The east window is of three lights with cinquefoil heads. The arch of the north door is semicireuiar. The bell turret, and the buttresses sup- porting it,are new. The west end is lighted by two long narrow windows with cinquefoil heads. In the interior, directly opposite the entrance against the north wall, in a quatrefoil of stone, is the following inscription :-— En Memory of Sir Samuel Crompton, of Thornton-le-Dtrect, Weaghall, and Throlblep, saronet, This ancient Churcd, (near fobich be was buried), twas restored, QB. 1855. Morn, 1785, Died, 1848. The arch dividing the nave and chancel is new, and pointed, _ springing from capitals, supported by short shafts rising from the wall below. The piscina yet remains in the south wall of the chancel. The sittings are new, consisting of open stalls. T ' 1 eR En seen 1 oem ee omtemnes me mene an eertletn ALiae naegte ene ree Sn A ce ea ene te sh menses en th nec ao oe ite lls Sesteniaeeenenb mae errs ates wate maine eeihiaras nao utes ss ane en so ; a i 290 | THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The inscriptions are very interesting, in a good state of preser- vation, and commemorate different members of the Talbot family formerly of Wood End. On a brass plate on the floor of the chancel is inscribed :— ‘‘ Hic in spe resurgendi Christum expectans suscitatura requiescit Elizabetha ex antiquo et perillustri Pudseiorum de Bolton in Craven stem- mate prosata. Rogeri Talbot de Woodend in Parochia de Thornton-le- Street, Armigeri, Conjux cui duodecim Liberos in lucem attulit illa postquam illos in Coelebatu 26, in Congugio 28, et in Vidutate 14, compleverat Vitam, hanc senio curis et Anthritide Lassata. Deo sic Volenti, non invita resignavit, vicesimo sexto die Decembris, Anno Domini MDcLXxxxIv. Mtatis sue sexagesimo octavo.* Anna illius filia pietatis motu hoc chare Matris memorize dicavit.”’ On a tablet against the south wall of the chancel is inscribed :— ‘« Pietatis & eximiz virtutis Feminece D’ne Brigitte filie Willi. Pennington Ar: ex Antiqua Familia Pennington orum de Mulcastre prosate : Ambrosio Pudsey de Bolton in Craven Ar: primo nupte, cui unicum filium ejusdem nominis attulit, & duas filias (stit) Anam & Elizabetham: Quarum prima Thome, natu maximo, filio Thome Laton Militis, de-in Waltero Rob’ti Strickland militis. Secundo genito Matri- monij copula adjuncta fuit. Alteram vero Rogerus filius & heres Joh’is Talbot de Thornton Ar: cepitin uxorem. Postremo de’a D’na Brigetta Thomam Laton Militem in maritum secundam nupsit: cui peperit Ca- rolum & Brigittam Laton Qui Carolus pietatis motu, in chare Matris defuncte memoriam hoc curari fecit. Obijt ipsa viij Calend Maij Anno etatis sue Lxiij. Anno q. D’ni M.D.c.Lxiij.’’f A tablet against the east wall of the chancel commemorates Roger Talbot, Esq., a captain in the army of king Charles I. ‘¢ Memoria Dicatum, Juxta hic recondunter ossa Rogeri Talbot Armigeri, primogenite filij — Johannis Talbot (ex parte Regis Caroli I.) Chiliarche defuncti, Qui cum patre (adhunc juvenis multis in preelijs obsidionibusqz. Regi fideliter adhoesissett & in campo ad extremum usqz.) veriliter pugnavissit (Exactis jam jinimicis evectoqz. ad solum patris Caroli 2). Hic in numero Justi- * Her burial is thus recorded in the parish register, ‘‘ 1694. Elizabeth Talbot, mother of Roger Talbot, Esqr., died ye 26 of December, and was buried on Friday ye 28, 1694.” + This lady’s burial is thus enteredin the same register, “1664. The religious and virtuous Lady Laton was buried upon St. Mark’s day, being the 25th day of April.’’ ‘ me SE a ee ee RE ES RE ae a a ea i a eR = f 4 { e : THORNTON-LE-STREET. 291 ciariorum (pro pace domi) adscitus Chiliarchiceqz. (pro bello). Maioris officio insignitus et (pro Rege & patria) ad Comitia Regni (per plurimos annos) evocatus tandem (cum ex Uxore Elizabetha Ambrosij Pudseij Armigeri (defuncti) sorore, numerosam prolem suscipisset. (Viz. Roge- rum (primogenito Johanne prius defuncti) filium & heredem, Ambrosiam et Thomam, Carolum, Brigidum, (in puerperio sine sobole defunctam) Johanni Wright, Gent., Enuptam Janum, Richardo Lockwood, gent., in Uxorem datam. Elizabetha, Anna, Catherina, Florentia, Maria. senic & curis confectus ab hoc luce migravit 249 8 bris Anno Atatis sue 61. Annogz. Dni. (1). pcLxxx.”’ Against the north wall of the chancel is a tablet to the memory of Roger Talbot, Esq. and his wife, the last of the family who re- sided at Wood End. ‘* Near this place lie the remains of Roger Talbot, of Wood End, Esq. and of Sarah his wife, only daughter of William Ward of the City of York, L.L.D., and relict of Sir Robert Fagg, Bart., of Weston in Sussex. He died viii. March, MDccLxxvil., aged lxiv. She died xxvii. Nov., MDCCXCII., aged ]xxxii. Their exemplary charity and other excellent qualities will make them long regretted by all who knew them.”’ The only Testamentary burial recorded in Torre, as having taken place in this church, is that of Richard Meynal of Dalton, Gent., in 1612. . This Church was an ancient rectory belonging to the patronage of the bishops of Durham, by whom it was given to the Hospital of St. James at Northallerton, to which it was appropriated, and a Vicarage ordained therein. The first Vicar named in Torre’s MSS., was instituted in 1295. From the Valor Ecclesiasticus, we learn that the Hospital of St. James received for rents of divers lands and tenements in “ Thornton-in-Strato,” the sum of 73s. 4d. The rectory with the tithes of corn and hay was valued at 7/. 3s. 4d. per ann., and that ds. 4d. per ann. were paid out of the said income to the Collegiate Church of Ripon. 3 On the dissolution of the religious houses, the patronage came to the crown, and was granted to the Dean-and Canons of Christ Church, Oxford. a 292 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. In the valuation of Pope Nicholas (1292), the living is returned as worth 13/. 6s. 8d. per ann. In the Nova Tax (1340), it is only valued at half the above sum, 6/. 13s. 4d. In the Liber Regis, it is said to be of exempt jurisdiction. ‘ Valet in decim. Vitul. Agn. Lan., &c., 4/.” It was augmented in 1796, with 200/.; and in 1810, with 200/. more from the parliamentary grant, to meet bene- factions of 100/. from the Rev. Thomas Hartland Fowle, the Vicar, and 100/. from Mrs. Pyncombe’s trustees. In 1818, it was esti- mated at 78/. per annum. Net value in 1834, 601. per annum. The Register Books commence in 1598, but the first two books are very imperfect. In 1736, Mrs. Ann Talbot left the interest of 20/. to be distributed to the poor at Christmas. The township contains 1340 acres ; and in 1851, 171 inhabitants. WOOD END. 293 WOOD END. Woop END is a modern built Mansion, situated, as its name de- notes, at the end ofa succession of luxuriant woods, about 4 miles north of Thirsk, in the township of Thornton-le-Street, now the seat of Alan Frederick, Viscount Greenock, eldest son of the Earl of Cathcart, who inherits it in right of his wife Elizabeth Mary, eldest daughter of the late Sir Samuel Crompton, Bart. For a long time this manor and estate were held by the family of Talbot. Early in the seventeenth century Roger Talbot, son of John Talbot, resided here, who married Elizabeth sister of Ambrose Pudsey, of the ancient family of that name, long settled at Bolton in Craven, by whom he had a numerous family, con- sisting of five sons and four daughters, of whom John the eldest, died young; and Roger, the second son, succeeded to the estate. Roger Talbot the elder was a captain in the army of king Charles I., in whose service he passed through many dangers. In 1661 he represented the borough of Northallerton in parliament, and was for many years a Justice of the Peace. He died October 2nd, 1680, aged 61. His widow died December 6th, 1694, in the 68th year of her age; she was married at the age of 26, was twenty- eight years a wife and fourteen a widow, as is related on her monu- ment in the church of Thornton-le-Street. Of Roger Talbot, Esq., who succeeded his father in 1680, we have but little information; he had a son Roger, baptised Feb. 13th, 1685, who succeeded to the estate on his father’s decease. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart., — ——— | 294 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. of Thirkleby, near Thirsk, by whom he had one son named after his father, and one daughter named Arabella, afterwards the wife of Colonel Gee, who was killed at the head of his regiment at the battle of Fontenoy, April 30th, 1745. Roger Talbot, Esq., was born Aug. 15th, 1713: he succeeded to the estate of Wood End on his father’s decease. He was returned as representative to parliament for the borough of Thirsk, in 1754. He married Sarah, only daughter of William Ward, of the city of York, L.L.D., and widow of Sir Robert Fagg, Bart., of Weston in Sussex, but had no issue. He died March 8th, 1777; his widow survived him fifteen years, and died Nov. 27th, 1792, aged 82.* She held the name of her first husband, and was styled Lady Fagg till the day of her death.+ * The age as given above is that engraved on the monumental tablet in the church of Thornton-le-Street. The registers of the same church give it different as follows— “ Burials —Sarah Fagg, relict of Roger Talbot, aged 84, Dec. 10, 1791.” + The following extracts from the Registers of Thornton-le-Street, relate to the family of Talbot :— ** Myrywell son of Mr. Thomas Talbot, buried ye 4th of Novem., 1623.” ** 1652, Mr. Charles Talbot, buried June 28th.”’ ** 1693, John ve sonne of Mr. Roger Talbot, was baptised at Saxhow in Cleveland, y® 14th day of July, 1653, by Rowland Harwood, Minister of Thornton-le-Street.” ** 1654, Bridget the daughter of Mr. Roger Talbot, was born ye 23rd of August, bap. 28th Aug., 1654.” ** John Talbott, Esq., was buried the Eighth day of May, 1659.” - ‘© Jane Talbot, daur. of John Talbot, Esq., was buried the eighth day of May, 1659.”’ ‘** John, ye sonne of Roger Talbot, Esq., was buried ye 27th day of July, 1659.” ** Thomas Talbot, the sone of Roger Talbott, Esq., was born the 24th of November, and baptized the 301th of November, being St. Andrew’s day, in the year 1665.’ ** 1667, Mary Talbot, the daughter of Roger Talbot, was born on the 222nd day of July, in the year of our Lord 1667.” ** Charles Talbot, the sonne of Roger Talbot, was born the 30th day of December, and baptized the 301th day of December, in the year of our Lord God 1668.” “*Charles Talbot, the sone of Roger Talbot, Esquire, was buried the twenty-eighth day of March, in the year of our Lord God 1669.”’ ** The religious and virtuous lady Midletone, was buried on the 6th day of January, being the 12th day of the Epiphany of our Lord God 1669.”’ ‘John ‘Talbot, the sonne.of Roger Talbot, Esqyre, was baptized the 201st day of May, in the year of our Lord 1683.” ** Roger Talbot, the sonne of Roger Talbot, Esq., was bapt. the 13th day of Feby., 1685.” * Henry Talbot, the sonne of Roger Talbot, was baptized the 9th day of June, in the year of God 1687.” **Catherine Talbot, the daughter of Roger Talbot, was bapt. the ik decem., in 1688.”’ “Roger Talbot, the son of young Roger Talbot, was born 15th Aug., 1713.” ee ee ee a a ee cenit ee eer ne een EL ANS mE | teen SE Ae eR Ast Ne Rat eat Aa em I tre ny Sree mnt aa en WOOD END. 295 After the death of Roger Talbot, the mansion and estate came to the posterity of his sister Arabella, wife of Col. Gee, whose only son named Roger became possessed thereof. He married Caroline Wharton, by whom he had two daughters, Sarah and Caroline, one of whom married Colonel Hotham of the Guards, a younger brother of the late Lord Hotham’s. From these co-heiresses the estate was purchased by Samuel Crompton, Esq., father of the late Sir Samuel Crompton, Bart. The family of Crompton was located in Derbyshire from about the middle of the seventeenth century. Samuel Crompton, Esq., _ (first owner of Wood End of that name), was born in April, 1750. He was Mayor of Derby in the years 1782 and 1788. He married in 1783, Sarah, daughter of Samuel Fox, Esquire, of Derby, and had issue Samuel, and Sarah. : Samuel Crompton, Esq., who succeeded to the estate of Wood End on the decease of his father, was born in July, 1785, and married in Nov., 1829, to Isabella Sophia, sixth daughter of the late Hon. and Rev. Archibald Hamilton Cathcart, rector of Meth- ley, and vicar of Kippax, in the West Riding of this county. They had issue four daughters, Elizabeth Mary, Isabella ko Fanny Selina, and Alice. In 1838, he was advanced to a Baronetcy; which on his dying without male issue, Dec. 27th, 1849, became extinct. He devised the mansion and estate of Wood End, to his eldest daughter— Elizabeth Mary, who in 1850, married Alan Frederick, Viscount Greenock, eldest son of the Earl of Cathcart, who became in con- sequence owner of Wood End. The family of Cathcart is of considerable antiquity in Scotland, deriving their surname from their lands in the county of Renfrew, _ where the town of that name is situated. The Cathcarts have been warriors in all ages; one fell at ** 1715, Elizabeth Talbut, the daughter of Roger Talbut, Esq., born 9th July, 1715.” “Mr. John Talbut was buried ye 15th July,” (year obliterated, but between 1710 and 1712). ’ * Burials. 1778, Roger Talbot, Esq., Mar. 14.” ** Sarah Fagg, Relict of Roger Talbot, aged 84, Dec. 10th, 1791.” re er gsr sesne-eneneen — TT CT A LA I ER SE i RP RY Ph PS ep ee enna ner pe 296 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Pinkie, another at Flodden Field—nor has the military reputa- tion of the race yet declined. The grandfather of Viscount Greenock was William Shaw Cathcart, tenth Baron and first Earl, K.T., K.A.N., K.A., K.S.A., and K.T.S.; born in 1755, and, having adopted the profession of arms, attained the rank of Lieut.-General in 1801. In 1807 he was appointed Commander in Chief of the Expeditionary Force sent to Copenhagen, and was rewarded on his return by receiving a British Peerage. On the 16th of July, 1814, he was advanced to the dignity of an Earl. He married in June, 1779, Elizabeth daughter of Andrew Elliott, Esq., Governor of New York, by whom he had a numerous family. He died in June, 1843, and was succeeded by his second sur- viving son, Charles Murray, second Earl Cathaied born at Walton in Essex, December 21st, 1783, K.C.B.; entered the army in 1799, and served in the expedition to the Helder in the same year. Accompanied the expedition under Sir James Craig, and served in Naples and Sicily in 1805-6 as Assistant Quarter Master General. Served on the expedition to the Scheldt, and was. present at the siege of Flushing in 1809. Proceeded to the Peninsula in 1812, and was present at the battles of Barrosa, Salamanca, and Vittoria, for which he has received the gold medal and two clasps. He also served in the campaign of 1815, and was present at the battle of Waterloo, for which he received the Fourth Class Order of St. Wladimer and St. Wilhelm. Ap- pointed Colonel of the first Dragoon Guards in 1851; he was Governor and Commander in Chief of Canada, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, &c., in 1846, and attained the rank of General in 1854. Heis L.L.D. and Vice President of the Royal Society of Scotland. He married, in 1818, Henrietta daughter of Thomas Mather, Esquire, and has issue, I. Alan Frederick, Viscount Greenock. II. Augustus Murray, born in 1830, a Lieut.-Colonel in the Army, who served through the Eastern Campaigns in the Crimea in 1854-6. Ae nm ree ne ee ee i pe pg Et Et A Se ge A NE Rr ee eee ete a A = ss ste ne st +e ss acs athens wen senna sian ———— ch A sesame si WOOD END. 297 Lady Elizabeth, married to Colonel Douglas, eldest son of Sir Neil Douglas. © Lady Henrietta Louisa Frances, born in 1823. Lady Adelaide, married to J. R. Trafford, Esquire, in 1850. Alan Frederick, Viscount Greenock, was born at Hythe in Kent, 1828. He entered the army, and was appointed first Lieut. of the 23rd foot in 1849; he retired in 1850, in which year he married Elizabeth Mary, eldest daughter of the late Sir Samuel Crompton, Bart., and has issue, Isabel, born in 1851, died December 26th, 1856, buried in the churchyard of Thornton-le-Street. Alan, born April, 1856. His lordship isa Deputy Lieutenant and Magistrate for the North Riding of the County of York, Chairman of the North _ Riding Quarter Sessions, aud a Lieutenant-Colonel in the North York Militia. In the mansion at Wood End, amongst many other Paintings, are four pictures by George Cuitt, a Yorkshire artist, born at the village of Moulton in 1743, died at Richmond Feb. 3, 1818. They are representations of Italian scenery, or perhaps rather compositions. A picture of Wood End by the same artist, is fitted into a frame which forms a portion of an old-fashioned carved fire- place. The style of this painter is thought by competent judges to be somewhat hard. These are said to be the best specimens of his skill. In the dining room is a very valuable portrait of the unfortu- nate Mary Queen of Scots, by a Dutch artist; also one of Napoleon I.; besides many others of the Cathcart family; and two modern full-lengths of Lord and Lady Greenock, by Dessein. i I 298 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. NORTH KILVINGTON. NorTH KILVINGTON is a township in the parish of Thornton-le- Street, situated about three miles north of Thirsk. The river Cod- beck forms the western boundary, and the brook called Spittle- beck runs on the southern side, dividing it from the parish of South Kilvington. This township is entirely rural and agricultural, containing 777 acres, and only 63 inhabitants. Among the lands of the Earl of Morton in Yorkshire, ie ianed in Domesday Survey, we find “ In Chelvinetune, Waltef had one manor of two carucates. It is waste.”* . The family of Meynell of North Kilvington, and the Fryerage, Yarm, have for a long time had possession of this township. Their ancient mansion stood near the junction of Spittlebeck with Cod- beck, but was pulled down many years ago, and the materials used in the erection of farm buildings on the estate. The site is yet distinctly marked amidst a grove of ancient elms, and the antique brick wall which formerly enclosed the gardens. The barn be- longing to the farm house, near the site of the old hall, is said to have been the coach house. Its appearance is indicative of consi- derable age, and though it has been frequently repaired and modernised, the original style and appearance are preserved. On an oaken beam over the principal door is cut T. 1612. M. being the initials of Thomas Meynell, Esq., and probably the date of its erection. * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 76. eee Ra ES LO TL TES tT A a ET RS ST SY a RL EY A NESS —_ NORTH KILVINGTON. 299 In the field adjoining Spittlebeck, is a hollow place like the remains of an ancient moat of considerale extent. Few families in Yorkshire can lay claim to a higher antiquity than that of Meinell, or Meynell. They were originally settled at Stainton, Whorlton, and Hilton in Cleveland. bapt. 1754, May 1, Warcop, son of Peter Consitt, Esq., & Eliz., of Brawith, bapt. 1756. June 10, Margaret, daughter of Peter Consitt, Esq., & Elizth., of Brawith, bapt. 1758. Dec. 26, Ann, daughter of Peter Consitt, Esq., & Eliz., of Brawith, bapt. Peter, who subsequently inherited the estate, must not have been born at Brawith, as his baptism is not recorded in the Leake Registers. + Of the Consitts of Thirsk, we give the foliowing extracts from the Thirsk Parish Register :— 1683. Jan. 24, Mr. Consit was married to Elizabeth Bell. 1720. Oct. 12, Ralph, son of Ralph Concit, Grocer, bapt. 1722. June 22, Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph Concit, Merchant, died and was buried ye 20th. 1726. Jan. 20th, Peter, son of Mr. Ralph Concitt, Mercht., bapt. 1729. July 18th, Mary, daughter of Mr. Ralph Concett, Mer., bapt, 1733. May 26th, Rachell, daughter of Mr. Ralph Concett, bapt. reat gna inner dS pm means ae oi Ci iene Staten an weit ah BRAWITH. 311 settled in Thirsk, and became connected by marriage with the family of Bell. In the will of Robert Bell, dated Sept. 22nd, 1707, we find the following bequest :—“I give to my son-in-law Peter Consitt and to his wife, each of them a broad piece of gold, and to each of his children five pounds.” The next owner of Brawith, after the decease of the above mentioned Peter Consitt, was his son Warcop, born May Ist, 1754, whose initials W.C., 1783, appear in the pavement behind the Hall at Brawith. He died unmarried in Dec., 1833; when his younger brother Peter succeeded to the estate, who died Dec. 7th, 1839, also unmarried ; when the direct male line failing, the estates were devised by the nite weiner ametntehs> brother) for the use of his nephew, William Preston, Esq., son of the Rey. D. J. Preston of Askam Bryan, near York. The brothers Consitt resided here for more than two-thirds of a century, practising a kind of feudal hospitality, guarded by blood hounds and mastiffs, and attended solely by female domestics. Peter was quite a character, and is described by those who knew him as a tall, thin man, wearing a broad brimmed hat, and an old- fashioned claret, cloth coat, with flat, solid silver buttons of enor- mous breadth. The will devising the estates was a singular document, leaving the whole to the youngest son of their sister, who however was not to attain his majority, and come into possession until he was twenty-five years of age, which will be in 1860. In case of the demise of the youngest son, leaving no issue, the inheritence was to ascend in the scale of seniority to the eldest, who, according to _ the rule of contraries, was to inherit the last. The annual proceeds in the meantime are invested by the trustees in real estate in the neighbourhood, so that when the time arrives for the heir to enter into possession he will find an estate greatly enlarged to that which his ancestors enjoyed. _. The Hall, a modern mansion of the last century, is situated on low ground, near the Codbeck, surrounded by rich pasture lands, and almost hid by timber of the most luxuriant growth. It is of brick with covgnes and weather mouldings of white stone. Amongst . ELLE ALS LCSD ot LOE AED NDC eT ty a will of Warcop Consett, Esq., to trustees (after the decease of his _ a nn 312 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. the family relics preserved therein, is a little old-fashioned silver tea pot, which was won in a horse race by a lady—it bears the inscription :—* Well ridden, Miriam Wrightson.” BORROWBY. BoRrRowsy, also in the parish of Leake, is situated about a mile north-west from Knayton, in the wapontake of Allertonshire. The village stands on the slope of a hill, which declines to the south, below flows a branch of the Codbeck, that rises among the gorges of the Hambleton hills, above Kepwick, and joins the main stream a short distance below this village. Like the sister village of Knayton, Borrowby is surrounded with orchards, for which the soil and situation appear highly favourable. The soil around and above the village, is of excellent quality, the lower grounds not so good, being clayey and cold. The manufacture of linen was formerly carried on extensively in this village, more than 200 of the inhabitants being engaged therein—now there are only six individuals who gain a livelihood. by the loom. vig The Methodists have a Chapel here, and the Society of Friends a small Burial-ground. On the first introduction of the tenets of - the Friends into Yorkshire by the preaching of George Fox, that extraordinary man held meetings at this place; the people re- ceived him favourably, and his followers became numerous in the neighbourhood.* Borrowby appears to be twice mentioned in Domesday, under the name of Bergebi, as a berewic belonging to the manor of Northallerton, then in the King’s hand, and waste.t Again, among the lands of William de Percy, “Gerlestre wapontake,” * In the Journal of George Fox, are two entries relative to this place, the first in 1651, the second in 1677. + Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 10. en A eR NR A eR cee re ar rE IT OE cciraniigeat et . BORROWBY. 313 we find, “in Berghebi, Canute had eight carucates of land to be taxed, where there may be four ploughs. William has it, and it is waste. Value in King Edward’s time, twenty shillings. Wood pasture, four quarentens long, and the same broad.”* The term Gerlestre, used in Domesday, appears generally to apply to what is now called the wapontake of Bridforth, but not exclusively so, as we find some places entered under that head which are now in Allertonshire; besides, the two wapontakes are so intermixed together at this particular point, that it is rather difficult to say with certainty what lands are in the one, and what in the other. The name Berghby is certainly that by which this place was known in very early times, as in the Ordina- tion of the Vicarage of Leake, in 1344, we find mention made of “ the meadows of Berghby” (de Pratis de Berghby). The deriva- tion of the name appears to point out this village as the site of some fortified post or farm. This township is copyhold of the manor of Northallerton, of which the Bishop of Ripon is Lord. GUELDABLEft Is another township in this parish, the houses of which are so intermixed with those of Borrowby, that they only form one village; though they are in two wapontakes, and the lands of different tenures, Gueldable is in Bridforth, and is freehold, while Borrowby, as already related, is in Allertonshire, and copyhold. The houses in the higher part of the village are very pleasantly situated, and command extensive and very beautiful views of the * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 173. * Probably derived from the Saxon Gyldan, to pay. Gueld, Geld, or Gild signifies tribute or tax, a payment of money, and money itself; from whence the best sort of money was called gold. As Geldable signifies a tax, or tribute, it is probable that this township was charged with the payment of a tax, from which the adjoining lands were exempt. cay 314 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. country around. An ancient cross stands in the street, and is said to form the boundary between the two townships, and the two wapontakes. It consists of a square upright shaft, with a thin cap of limestone, elevated on four steps, and is apparently of con- siderable antiquity. Borrowby contains about 400, and Gueldable about 140 in- habitants. LANDMOTH-WITH-CATTO# WHICH consists of only a few farmhouses, lies to the north of Borrowby, on the elevated ridge of land which is bounded by Cottcliffe wood, and the river Codbeck on the west. The soil is of excellent quality, and the prospects from this fine airy emi- nence are of great extent and exquisite beauty, embracing the whole range of the Hambleton Hills on the east, from Arncliff to Roulston Scar, with their thick woods, grey rocks, heath-clad hills, naked precipices, shaggy glens, knolls, waves, and swells of land of every imaginable size and form. To the northward the view extends into the county of Durham, as far as Darlington. To the west and south the country lies spread before the eye, like some gigantic map, studded with towns and villages, extending westward as far as the hills of Swaledale and Wensleydale. Southward the towers of York Minster rise from the plain on the distant horizon, with the country beyond misty and indistinct from distance. Landmoth House is situated a little east of the highest point of land, and is one of those ancient manor houses, with quaint gables, and wide chimneys, where the highest class of yeomanry practised in former days the rites of hospitality. The old house is an interesting fabric of the Tudor age; over the entrance, carved in stone, are the builder’s initials, W. T. * Previously written Landmote, Landmot, and Landmouth. Mot or Mote has probably some connection with the meetings, motes, or open air assemblies of the Saxons, as, from its situation, few places were better adapted for such purposes. ae ee eo ne a a | aS A ET I ee ¥ : LD OL CC AT ee ss ss ie: tt ese is estat ess str EE nnn LANDMOTH-WITH-CATTO. 315 A family of considerable note, named Green, resided here, in the latter part of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth centuries. The first we find is William Green, whose daughter Elizabeth was married to Anthony Meinell, Esq., of North Kil- vington. John Green was the next owner, who died November 7th, 1597. James Green appears to have succeeded him, who, August 9th, 1601, had a daughter baptised, named Petronella; in 1604, a son, named Edmund ; and in 1606, another son, named Henry; after which no further trace of them is to be found in the Leake registers. Ox Bank, another farmhouse in the immediate vicinity, is sometimes called Marygold Hall, probably from the large mary- gold, or Tudor rose, carved in stone above the door. Like the last mentioned, this is an ancient building, or at least a part of _ one, as the elaborately carved and ornamented doorways appear to have been intended for a building of much higher pretensions than the present. The entrance is between two square pillars, with foliated capitals; an oval recess above contains the large stone marygold, beneath which are the initials and date, mit; 16 eas a 7. The windows are divided, by mullions and transons, into four lights each. At the south-west corner is one side of another doorway, similar to the other, from the position of which it ap- pears that a great part of the house has been pulled down, which must have been the case, if these ornaments have not been de- rived from the destruction of some other building, for they do not correspond at all with the rest of this house. In Domesday, Landmot is entered as a berewic of the manor of Northallerton, then waste, and in the hands of the King. It is now the property of George Marwood, Esq., of Busby Hall, Cleveland. coos nese ments nt eth SS SS cS PSPSPS ites ee 316 JHE VALE OF MOWBRAY. CROSBY, ANOTHER township in the parish of Leake, is now the property of Trustees under the will of the late Warcop Consett, Esq., of Brawith Hall, who have recently purchased the Hall and estates there from a family of the name of Dent. This township, at the time of the Domesday survey, was in the soke of the manor of Northallerton, and at that time waste. It was in the King’s hands, and is thus noticed, ‘¢ Manor. In Croxbi, Tor had one carucate of land to be taxed. Land to half a plough,—Five shillings.* NETHER SILTON, A CHAPELRY and township in the parish of Leake, is situate on the slope of a hill northward of the parish church, eight miles from Thirsk, and seven from Northallerton. The village does not present any features of remarkable interest. The Hallis an antique building, partly modernised, formerly the property of a family of the name of Hickes, now of Robert M. Jaques, Esq., of Easby, near Richmond, with five hundred acres of land in the township. The Chapel of Ease is a plain building, rebuilt in 1812, as — appears by an inscription over the entrance. This Chapel was rebuilt in 1812. The Hon. and Rt. Revd Shute Barrington, Lord Bishop of Durham. Fowler Hickes, Esqre Lord of the Manor. Richard Hoggard, | Churchwardens, f James Weiehill * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boe, p. 28. ee a NO etal a te er NETHER SILTON. 317 Before the dissolution this Chapel was appropriated to the Priory of Guisborough ; it is now served by the vicar of Leake. In a field in front of the chapel stands a rough upright stone, bearing the following singular inscription :— HTGOMHS TBBWOTGWWG TWATEWAHH ATC L aD We EX A.D. 1768. | AW, FPS A Y AA. Sorely were we puzzled and perplexed to make out the meaning of this oddity, or indeed to find any meaning at all for it, and so we might have been, until “ the crack of doom,” had not a friendly passer-by told us that every letter was the initial of a word, and that it was a whim of the late Squire Hicks, to mark the site of the Old Manor House. The two first lines when written at length would be— Here the good old Manor House stood, The back beams were oak, the great walls were good. The meaning of the remainder had departed from our informant’s memory ; but we were satisfied with what we had learnt, the key was found and those who love puzzles may unlock the no very deep mystery of this modern hieroglyphic. What pleased us infi- nitely more was the fine prospect of plain and mountain scenery visible from the spot. The annual sum of 387., is paid out of a farm in this township, belonging to Marshall Fowler, Esq., Preston Hall, near Stockton, _to the Master of the Grammar School at Coxwold; and part of the yearly rental of another farm here is devoted to the repairs of one of the windows in York Minster. | ee ee ee ere a ent ei 318 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. _ARDEN HALL. ** A little lowly vale,— / A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high Among the mountains.’”—WoRDSWORTH. AT a distance of eight miles from Thirsk, and ten from Helmsley, in a narrow valley among the Hambleton Hills, stands Arden Hall,* the seat of Charles Tancred, Esq. At the time of the Domesday survey, this romantic spot was part of the possessions of Hugh, the son of Baldric, then a berewic of the manor of Bagby, and contained three carucates of land.t With the Vale of Mowbray, it passed to the powerful barons of that name, and was held as a sub-fee under them by the family of Hoton or Hutton. At that time it would be a savage woody glen, the haunt of the wild boar and the wolf. About the year 1150, Peter de Hoton founded here a monas- tery for nuns of the Benedictine order, and dedicated it to St. Audrew. He appears to have endowed it with the land on which it stood, and three carucates more in the vill. or territory of me Pees " Arden. It was esteemed a great and meritorious action in those © days to become the founder of a monastic establishment, as they thus secured the prayers of the religious there dwelling for their * Sometimes written Ardene, Erden, and Harden. It is probably derived from ** Arn,”’ an eagle, and “ Deen,” a deep valley,—the deep valley of the eagle. The name pleasantly recalls to mind Shakspere’s delicious Forest of Arden, where we dwell, with Jaques, - Under the shade of melancholy boughs.” + Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 197. Se | NN eS gc Nh be a gt A ER oot ee ; Seindidiniasistitinthdiveetiie UN Bc a PA a eR i a a = } ARDEN. HALL. 3tg own souls, and those of their posterity for ever. We cannot, however, but smile at the prudent piety of Peter de Hoton, who gave to God and holy mother church what was of very little value to himself. How the poor nuns were to build their house and church, and find the means of existence in this wilderness, would puzzle St. Andrew himself to tell. The grant was con- firmed by Roger de Mowbray, the superior lord of the fee. Another charter of confirmation from Elizabeth, wife of William de Carlton, and heiress of Peter de Hoton, recites the boundaries of the land. These confirmations were delivered to Alice, the Prioress, by Geoffrey, heir of the said Peter and Elizabeth, in the 4th Henry IV., A. D. 1405. King John, by a charter granted in the second year of his reign, confirmed to the nuns a considerable donation of land in Holme, given to them by Ralph de Belver, and Constance, his wife ; three bovates of land in Kirkeby, given by Henry de Kirkeby, with two tofts; three carucates of land by Peter de Tresby ; beside the site of the Abbey, which are here stated as having been given by Roger de Mowbray, and confirmed by Nigel de Mowbray. Roger, the son of Roger de Hoton, gave two bovates of land near Thirsk, 36th Henry III. | The possessions of this nunnery are not recorded in the taxa- tion of Pope Nicholas the 4th, A. D. 1291.* ee Wrtoresses of Arden. Muriel occurs prioress in 1189. Agatha occurs prioress in the 46th of Henry IIL. . Margaret occurs in 1289, 18th Edward I. A prioress, who is not named, was installed on the 11th of the kalends of December, 1304. Beatrice de Colton was elected on the 8th kalend Feb. (Jan. 23rd), 1314. ; * Dugdale’s Mon. Ang., vol. iv., p.p. 284, 285. eS GS SA ER SESS SSR SS ais sent ety ou | | ee 320 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Isabella Cowell was made prioress on the 7th kalend May (April 25), 1824. (Burton calls her Connell, and dates her ap- pomntment, evidently by mistake, in 1329, upon her resignation.) Beatrice de Holm was elected prioress on the 5th kal. May (April 27th), 1329. An election of a prioress took place in 1393. The person chosen was probably Eleanor, who occurs in 1396, and of whom a particular or two not very creditable is detaiied. Alice occurs as prioress in the 6th Henry IV., A. D. 1405. A license for the election of another prioress was granted, the vacancy occasioned by death, in 1459. Margery de Danby was confirmed prioress, Feb. 17th, 1502. Tanner, from a manuscript in the library of Benet Coll., Cam- bridge, says, herein about the time of the dissolution, were nine religious, their whole income being rated, according to Dugdale, at no more than 12/. 6d. Speed makes the revenues of this house to amount to 13/. 7s. 4d., and a manuscript Valor in Benet Coll. Library, to 20/. 1s. 4d. . Burton says,* that Arden priory was granted 32nd Henry VIIL., to Thomas Culpeper, and belonged in his time to Mr. Tancred. The particular for the grant to Culpeper is in the Augmentation Office. “The situation of most religious houses was in private, solitary places ; but that of this priory is enclosed by hills almost hanging over it, hiding the sun for the most part of the year from it; and has such a gloomy aspect as to affect even strangers.” The situation is one of loneliness and almost complete seclusion, © the modern mansion occupying the site of the ancient priory, stands nearly in the centre of the little valley, on the southern brink of Arden-little-beck, a tributary of the river Rye; to the southward the hills rise abrupt and high, thickly clad with wood ; the valley extends eastward, but bends in such a manner that the hills of Hawnby and Easter-side, (stony and rugged), appear to close it in completely in that direction ; northward, extends a strip * Mon. Ebor., p. 91. NL EL ORI EE A A I LE SN “oer te fe cnn anetgne mee¥ peOnp an ne mn ARDEN HALL. 321 of meadow land, above which rises the wood-clad hill to the heathy moor beyond; westward, the valley gradually closes, the sides thickly wooded, until it ends in a narrow, naked gorge, with a small stream flowing throughit. A road winds up the valley from Hawnby, and begins the ascent of the steep hill in front of the mansion. “ Ever the hollow path twines on . Beneath steep bank and threatening stone.” The only relics of the priory remaining, are a chimney, probably that of the kitchen, which yet retains its antique appearance, and performs the same part in the modern building as it did in the old. It is popularly said to be the ttle deed, by which a payment of 40/. a year from the owner of the park lands of Upsall, is secured to the lord of the manor of Arden; while the chimney endures the claim holds good—when it ceases to exist, the claim becomes void. This is the common story told in the neighbourhood, if true, it must certainly be ranked among singular tenures. Two tomb- stones were dug up about sixty years ago; when found they bore inscriptions now defaced and illegible ; they are now laid as flags in the yard. A fine spring of water walled round and protected, which supplied the establishment, is yet called the Nun’s Well. The mill also yet remains, but so altered and modernised as to re- tain none of its antique features. Human bones have frequently been dug up in the kitchen garden, where was formerly the burial ground of the nunnery. The church is supposed to have stood where the poultry offices now are. The gardens and grounds are not of great extent, but kept in very neat order, forming quite a contrast to the somewhat savage scenery around. The Tancreds were formerly of considerable note and wealth in the midland parts of Yorkshire, and divided into many branches; we find them seated at Raskelf, Thornton Bridge, Boroughbridge, and Whixley, as well as at Arden; all of which, except the last, are now extinct. so ameseuee terest danny nateentmnsenseunepts ans: ren a et A CROC i ES SS SS S22 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. OVER. S1 Las OvER SILTON is a parish situated to the north of Nether Silton, and, as the name denotes, occupies higher ground, extending up to the moors; it is seven miles from Northallerton, and eight from Thirsk. In the year 780, we read in the Saxon Chronicle, that the high-reaves of the North-humbrians burned Bern, the ealdorman, at Silton,* on the eighth before the kalends of January. What crime the unfortunate Bern had committed we are not informed, nor why his punishment was so severe. At the time of the Domesday survey, Silton was in the King’s hands, and is entered in the following manner :— “Manor. In Silvetune, Archil had three carucates to be taxed. Land to one plough and a half.”+ This manor and estate subsequently became part of the posses- sions of the family of Bellasise, Earls Fauconberg, a long and illustrious line, first settled at Bellasise, in the county of Durham, soon after the conquest; afterwards at Newburgh Park, near Coxwold, in Yorkshire. Henry Belasyse, of Newburgh, Esq., | then High Sheriff of Yorkshire, was knighted at York by King James I., on his Majesty’s journey to London, April 17th, 1603, and was created a Baronet upon the institution of the order, June 29th, 1611. On his decease, he was succeeded by his son, Sir Thomas Belasyse, born in 1557, who was advanced to the * We have sought in vain to find another Silton in Northumbria, therefore we fix the scene of Bern’s punishment here. + Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 28. rp et oe ar —— ee OVER SILTON. | 0323 peerage by the title of Baron Fauconberg, of Yarum, in the county of York, on the 25th of May, 1627. His Lordship, ad- hering to the fortunes of King Charles I., was created, on the dlst of January, 1642, Viscount Fauconberg, of Henknowle, in the county palatine of Durham. On the extinction of the family of Belasyse, the estates came into the possession of Sir George Wombwell, Bart., who married, in 1824, Georgiana, second daughter of Thomas Orby Hunter, Esq., of Croyland Abbey, in the County of Lincoln, by whom he had issue, George Orby, the present Baronet; Adolphus, a Captain in the 12th Lancers, and others. Sir George died in 1855, and was suc- ceeded by his eldest son, ‘Sir George Orby Wombwell, Bart. This gallant gentleman served with the 17th Lancers during the Eastern campaigns of 1854-5, in the Crimea, took part in the charge of the light ca- valry brigade at Balaclava, Oct. 25th, 1854, in which 600 British cavalry charged a whole Russian army. Mr. Russell, the Times correspondent, thus mentions the part Sir George took in that terrible affair :—“ Mr. Wombwell, an officer of the 17th, had a _ narrow escape. Being dragged from his horse and taken pri- soner by the Cossacks, a Russian officer told him not to be afraid, for although the soldiers were rather rough in their manners, he would be well taken care of. Mr. Wombwell saved them the trouble, for in the last charge he escaped and got back to his lines.” A letter, from an officer serving on board the Himalaya, describes the manner of Sir George’s escape,— Mr. Wombwell, of the 17th Lancers, had a most extraordinary escape, showing a monstrous deal of pluck. His horse was—it is said two were— shot under him, and he was taken prisoner, but while being marched. off, he saw an opportunity, mounted a Russian horse, and galloped back, rejoining some of his brigade, who had re- formed, and charging again without sword or pistol.” We can- not sufficiently admire the cool courage of the young soldier, who rode through this vailey of death, and so cleverly executed his escape, without even a wound. The uniform, pierced in several places by Cossacks’ lances, and the military saddle and bridle nn nn ee 324 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. which Sir George used on this memorable occasion, are now pre- served in the armoury at Newborough. 7 The pure air, invigorating climate, and abundance of game of these parts, make them the delight of the leading sportsmen of England with the gun, amongst whom we may rank H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, the present Commander-in-Chief of our army. The village of Silton does not present any features of remark- able interest. A short distance westward stands a lofty conical mount, called Carlow Hill, and to the east is a rough ridge, end- ing like a promontory, called Gnipe Hill; both these names are significant of the different races of men who have dwelt here,— “Carl,” Sax., a husbandman, “ how,” a hill; the word hzi/ being superfluous, and added by a people who did not know the mean- ing of “how.” Gnipe—from the Danish, Gnipa—a point or promontory, a designation exactly describing this hill, which forms a ridge from near Over Silton, and terminates abruptly a short distance east of Nether Silton. The CHurcH, dedicated to All Saints, is situated in the fields, half a mile from the village, and consists of a porch, nave, and chancel, with a bell turret, containing one bell, on the west gable. The entrance into the nave is through an Anglo-Norman arch, the soffit square, and the front ornamented with chevron or zig-zag work; the outer mouldings are deep and plain. The walls of the nave are flanked by three buttresses ; the chancel has none, except at the angles. The east window is of three narrow lights, with geometrical tracery in the sweep of the arch: the west window is of two similar lights. The others are of two lights each; near the chancel door is one of much smaller dimen- sions, probably coeval with the first building of the church. The roof of the nave is of a low pitch, and covered with lead ; that of the chancel is more modern, higher, and slated. The interior, which needs renovation, does not present any- . thing very interesting; the arch between the nave and chancel is circular, and in the chancel are the remains of an elaborately worked screen; the arms of Nevill and Scrope, oo of ciao enon cae id lah Bi ana is tae 08) On th et nts eee nene! opel ts ok ea ae ee a ane ee maa ime Nee OVER SILTON. 325 York in the fourteenth century, are yet to be seen in the roof of the nave. The only monument is a tablet against the south wall, to the memory of “ The Rev. C. E. Swales, who died Feb. 6, 1848, aged 64 years, Incumbent of this parish 34 years.” ‘The base of an ancient cross yet stands on its pedestal in the middle of the church-yard. Near the porch is a tombstone of a singular shape, like a stone coffin inverted; there are also three or four singular little headstones, about nine inches in thickness, and rising only a foot above the ground, with the inscription on the upper surface, which is short and simple, as “John Wilson, Interred June the 16, A. D. 1719.” The others are earlier, A. D. 1683 and 1624. The living is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the Master and Fellows of Trinity College, Cambridge. In Bacon’s Liber Regis, 12/. is the certified value, and it is styled a “ Chapel to Kilburne or Cowsby.” In the Terriers of the seventeenth century, it is styled a vicarage, with a vicarage house in good repair. There was also a quantity of glebe in the hands of the vicar, and an annual payment of 15/. from Lord Falconberg. In 1707 it was returned at only 12/., in 1818 at 38/7. per annum. Augmented in 1757, 1786, 1810, and 1817, with 200/. each time from the Par- liamentary grant by lot; and in 1827, with 300/. from the same source, to meet benefactions of 100/. from the Master and Fellows of Trinity College, 50/. from the Rev. C. E. Swales, Incumbent, and the inhabitants, and 50/. from Mr. Marshall’s Trustees. In 1832, with 200/., to meet a benefaction of 2007. from the Master and Fellows of Trin. Coll., Camb. Present net value, 90/. per ann. Present Incumbent, the Rev. John Oxlee. The Register books commence in 1678, but do not contain any- thing particularly interesting. Since 1813, the time when the ages of the deceased are first given, there are many entries of age upwards of 80. The most-advanced is that of Ann Gale, aged 92, buried May 29th, 1855. In the precipitous cliffs, a short distance north-west of the vil- lage, called “the Scarrs,” is a cave in the rock, known by the name of Hobthrush Hall, which was formerly the abode of a 326 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. goblin of a somewhat remarkable character, who appears by the stories yet current relating to him, to have been possessed of great agility, as he was in the habit of jumping from the hills above his dwelling to the top of Carlhow Hill, about half a mile distant. He was not of the malignant kind, ‘** That silent brood o’er quicksand, bog, or fen, Far from the sheltering roof and haunts of men.” On the contrary, he was one of those friendly to man, of whom the immortal Milton had heard fireside tales,— “e how the drudging goblin sweat To earn his cream bowl duly set, When in one night, ere glimpse of morn, His shadowy flail had thrashed the corn, That ten day labourers could not end ; Then flings him down, the lubber fiend, And, stretched out all the chimney’s length, Basks at the fire his hairy strength ; And, crop-full, out of door he flings, Ere the first cock his matin rings.” The Silton goblin was a true and faithful servant to a person named Weighall, who kept the village inn, and rented the land on which his hall was situate. It was Hob’s invariable practice to churn the cream during the night, which was prepared for him the evening before, for which his reward was a large slice of bread and butter, always placed ready for him when the family retired to bed, and always gone in the morning. One night, the cream was put into the churn as usual, but no bread and butter placed beside it. | Hob was so disgusted with this piece of base ingratitude, that he never came to churn more, and appears to have entirely left the neighbourhood. His dwelling yet remains, a rugged cave among the rocks, dark, wet, and uncomfortable, but extending a considerable distance underground. About a mile north of Silton, on the steep side of Thimbleby Banks, is a lofty rock of singular shape, called “the hanging stone.” This rock is of coarse grit, of considerable size, and stands in such a position, that it appears to hang in air, and, looking at it from below, we wonder why it does not fall into the ae ee ee ee valley beneath. It is ascended from behind, and is highest in —— : | OVER SILTON. 327 front, sloping backwards to the rocky hill, which is of equal alti- tude. The top is shaped like the sole of a gigantic shoe, about eighteen feet in length. It is very nicely balanced upon the slender supports beneath; the top is not level, else it would have made a fitting altar for those whose places of worship were “the earth o’ergazing mountains.” The prospect from the top is beau- tiful, and of almost unlimited extent on all sides but to the east. Looking northward, the villages of Thimbleby and Osmo- therley are close at hand, but deep below; beyond, the ruins of Mount Grace nestle under the thickly-timbered side of the gloomy Arncliffe. Harlsey, with its white-fronted hall, crowns a gentle eminence beyond, not far from the slender remains of the ancient castle, that once commanded the plain around; further north we look over the extensive table lands, which stretch far into the county of Durham. Westward, the hills of Teesdale, Swaledale, and Wensleydale close the prospect; the huge bulk of Ingleborough being visible over all in the far distant horizon. Southward, the view is unlimited over the Vale of Mowbray, and _ the Piain of York. At a small farmstead immediately in the plain below, called Nunhouse, tradition says there is a bull’s skin full of gold hid in the earth. Would he be a lucky man who should find it ? Silton contains about 95 inhabitants, and 11387 acres of land: the value of the assessed property is 559/. 15s. 6d; and in 1849 the poor-rates were 18/. 12s. 10d. The whole township of Over Silton is subject to the payment of tithes. The rent-charge, instead of tithes, for the whole parish is 150/., paid to Sir George O. Wombwell, Bart., as Lessee under Trinity College, Cambridge. There is a neat and commodious School-house, built in 1844, : by the late Sir George Wombwell, Bart. The father of the present Incumbent of Over Silton was the Rey. John Oxlee, late Rector of Molesworth, Hunts., renowned for his extraordinary learning as a Linguist, Critic, and Divine; and it is with pleasure and pride that we can claim this prodigy — 328 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. of erudition, this monarch of Biblical Literature and Universal History, as a native of Yorkshire. | He was born at Guisborough, in Cleveland, Sept. 25, 1779. When a youth he removed from his native town to Sunderland, and applied for a time to business; but afterwards quitted it, and devoted himself to study, beginning with the Mathematics and the Latin language. In the latter he made such rapid progress, that in 1802, when an assistant able to write Latin with ease aud elegance was wanted by the celebrated Dr. Vicesimus Knox, at that time Master of Tunbridge Grammar School: Mr. Oxlee wrote to him in that language, and immediately received the appointment of Second Master. There he commenced his He- brew, Chaldee, and Syriac studies, and spent four years of his life, previous to entering holy orders. He was ordained Deacon by Beilby Porteus, Bishop of London, Dec. 29th, 1805, and Priest by Edward Vernon, Bishop of Carlisle, for the Archbishop of York, on Sunday, Sept. 20th, 1807. He was ordained to the Curacy of Egton-cum-Goathland and Glaisdale, near Whitby, where he married Susannah, daughter of Mr. Ralph Wood, his stipend being 40/. per annum, which was 10/. more than had been given to any former curate. In 1811 he removed to the curacy of Stonegrave, where he be- came also family tutor to the Rev. George Worsley, the Rector. From June 26th, 1815, he held the Rectory of Scawton for the Master of Downing College, Cambridge, until 1836, when the late Archbishop of York presented him to the Rectory of Molesworth, in the county of Huntingdon, from which place “he was called to his rest,” Jan. 30th, 1854. His power of acquiring languages has never been equalled in | any age or nation; this self-made, self-educated man, at the time of his death, had made himself master of a hundred and twenty different languages and dialects, shewing at once his prodigious abilities, as well as his industry and untiring perseverence. In many of them he was obliged to form his own grammar and dic- tionary, and in some cases even the alphabet to commence with. At Tunbridge, Mr. Oxlee totally lost the sight of one eye, OVER SILTON. 329 through an attack of inflammation, but the other remained strong and clear to the end of his life. His favourite exercise was walking, and he has been known to travel on foot from Hovingham to Hull, a distance of fifty miles, to procure for himself a choice book or two in the Hebrew, or some other Oriental language.* His first attempt as an author was in 1805, after Bishop Horsley had published a new translation of the prophet Hosea, which was ignorantly criticised in the Imperial Review, but triumphantly defended by Mr. Oxlee, in the Anti-Jacobin, No. 80, vol. xx. In 1815 was published the first volume of his great work, “The Christian Doctrines of the Trinity and Incarnation, con- sidered and maintained upon the principles of Judaism.” The second volume was printed in 1820, and the third and concluding one in 1850. | In 1821, being then Rector of Scawton and Curate of Stone- grave, he published three sermons, on “The Power, Origin, and Succession of the Christian Hierarchy, and especially that of the Church of England, with copious notes.” The first of these ser- mons, on Absolution, was preached at the Archdeaconal Visita- tion of the Worshipful Charles Bailie, M.A., at Thirsk, July 10th, 1816, which created such a sensation, that it was instantly re- ported, “ Mr. Oxlee was preaching for a Cardinal’s Hat.” The consequence was, that the Archdeacon, in proposing Mr. Oxlee’s health after dinner, made no allusion whatever to the sermon; but paid him the following compliment :—He said he had been in conversation with a clergyman in the north, who received pri- vate pupils from Harrow, Eton, and all the public schools, to prepare for the Universities, but had never met with one so far advanced as Mr. Worsley, who had just come from Mr. Oxlee’s tuition,—the Rev. Thomas Worsley, at present Master of Down- ing College, Cambridge. In 1845, appeared Mr. Oxlee’s Letters to the Archbishop of Canterbury, “On the inexpediency and futility of any attempt * Whitby Gazette, Dec. 19, 1857. 330 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. to convert the Jews to the Christian Faith, in the way and manner hitherto practised; being a general discussion of the whole Jewish question.” | The other works of this learned divine are—“ Three Letters to the Archbishop of Cashel, on the Apocryphal Books of Enoch, Ezra, and Isaiah, and on the late age of the Sepher, Zophar, &c. “ Three Letters to Mr. C. Wellbeloved, on Unitarian Error and Miscriticism.” ‘¢ Three Letters to the Rey. F. Nolan, and Two Letters to the Bishop of Salisbury, on the spurious Text of the Heavenly Wit- nesses.” “A Reply to the Rev. R. Towers, the Roman Catholic Head of Ampleforth College, near York, wherein is contained an invi- tation to a Theological discussion, for the purposes of ascertaining whether the Roman Catholics or the Protestants eas the truer Bible.” “ Three more Letters on the inutility of any attempt to convert the Jews to the Christian Faith, in the manner hitherto practised ; with a confutation of the Diabolarchy.” | Contributions to “ Valpy’s Classical Journal ;” “The Chris- tian Remembrancer,” for 1822; “The Voice of Israel ;” “The Voice of Jacob;” “Jewish Chronicle.” But more especially, ‘‘Seven Letters addressed to S. M., the Jew,” in the second and third vols. of the Jewish Repository. Many other works he left behind him, in manuscript, which are yet unpublished. His published works are in the hands of J. Masters, Aldersgate Street, London. (See The Critic, Nov. 1st, 1853; The Yorkshireman, June 3rd, 1854; Wakefield Journal, June 2nd, 1854; and The Yorkshire Gazette, Sept. 23rd, 1854.) ‘In his work on the Trinity and Incarnation, the accumulation of learning is astonishing ; page after page presents to us correctly-printed extracts from the Jewish writers, both early and late, and are accom- panied by an exact English translation. This production is alone sufficient to place its author at once in the foremost rank of Hebrew © scholars.’”’—The Journal of Sacred Literature, April, 1854. se rn ne nent yen es nn ment np eee = ren ee tn ts mgs i tt ts a i i Ne NN LS a A | NE CL CC CC CC LLL A OVER SILTON. ool ‘The Letters to Archbishop Lawrence are filled with exceedingly rare extracts, and Dr. Nicholls, the late Regius Professor of Hebrew at Oxford, is said to have expressed a wonder how the works quoted had been obtained ; nor can we refrain from wondering, when we consider that his benefice was worth but 228/. a year.’’ Idem. Also Yorkshire Gazette, Sept. 23rd, 1854. ‘¢ Learned far beyond the ordinary scope of the best lights of the modern Church Establishment of England, JoHN OXtzEeE possessed a rare gift of analytical power, which enabled him to employ his accumu- lated treasures with a facility seldom equalled. A linguist who had conquered one hundred and twenty different languages and dialects, he was at home in the history of all the ancient peoples, and had few co- temporaries whose knowledge of Hebrew literature equalled his. The Asmonean, New York, Aug. Ist, 1856. ‘¢The late Joan OxLEE was an extraordinary scholar. Had prefer- ment in the church been given to merit, and not favour, John Oxlee would have adorned an episcopal chair, instead of being suffered to go through life unacknowledged by the church which he so zealously served. We believe that since Buxtorf, no Gentile excelled him in Rabbinical lore. But what particularly endears his memory to the Jewish scholar was the candour of the deceased.’’— Jewish Chronicle, Jan 29th, 1858. After the above eloquent eulogies on the learning, ability, and eandour of this great divine, anything said by us in his praise would be useless. Mr. Oxlee’s collection of rare books is still entire, challenging the acquirements of any two men in existence to read and explain the meaning of a few pages of them. We have only to add, that a biography of this learned Linguist, Critic, and Divine, may shortly be expected from the pen of his son, the present Incumbent of Over Silton. se aoe THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. KEPWICK KEPWICK is a township, situate in a recess of the Hambleton Hills, and belongs to the parishes of Over Silton, Cowsby, and Leake ; the road from Northallerton to Helmsley passes through the vil- lage, which presents no features of remarkable interest, excepting the mountain scenery, of which it commands some splendid views. At the time of the Domesday Survey, this place was in the king’s hands, and was occupied by Archil and Ghilemicel as tenants, who had five carucates of land to be taxed. Land to one plough.* Subsequently it formed part of the possessions of the “ Lords Burrows and Bussyes.” Afterwards a family of the name of Lepton held it, in whose hands it continued for at least four gene- rations; first, Christopher Lepton,t then John Lepton, Esq., and afterwards “Thomas Lepton, Esquire, sonne and heyre of John Lepton.” In the 19th of James I., A.D. 1620, John Lepton “ was seized and possessed of all the land and territory lying and being in the said Town, Village, Hamlett, and Manor of Kepwick.” In the same year a dispute having arisen between the Master and Fellows of Trinity College, Cambridge, patrons of the living of Over Silton, and John Lepton who farmed the tithes belonging to the Vicar of Leake, and the Rector of Cowsby in the township of Kepwick, respecting the boundaries of the portions of Kepwick belonging to the several parishes; legal proceedings were com- menced, and the matter in dispute was at length settled by a * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 28. + “1603, May 3rd, Agnes, widow of Christopher Lepton of Kepwick, died at the age of 103 years.’’—-Leake Parish Register. cece RR co Rg A A A | OO Nl NR SS ES ET A ES NE SS KEPWICK. O00 commission appointed for that purpose. The commissioners were Francis Pinckney, Thomas Cowling, and William Nelson, gentlemen, from whose report we make the following extract :— “ We having according to our bounden dutyes endeavoured our selves by measuring and proportioning of the Land in the said Lordshipp, doe fynde that there doth belong unto every several Oxgang in the said Lordshipp, fifteene acres of Land, Meadowe and Pasture, and that there is eight Oxgangs belonging to the P’ishe of Leake, eight Oxgangs to the P’ishe of Cowsby, and ail the rest of the Lordshipp to the P’she of Over Silton.” Thomas Lepton, Esq., was owner of the lordship of Kepwick until 1630, when it was purchased by Thomas, Lord Fauconberg, of the illustrious house of Bellasise. It is now the property of Joshua Samuel Crompton, Esq., of Sion Hill and Azerley Hall; who about twenty years ago constructed a tramway three miles and a half in length, from the limestone quarries on the side of Hambleton, to kilns built near the Yarm and Thirsk turnpike road, not far from Leake church. This road is worked partly by gravity, partly by horse power; from the quarries there is a very steep incline half a mile in length, worked by an endless chain. The Cromptons, owners of this township, are a younger branch of the Cromptons late of Wood End. This township contains 170 inhabitants, and 2930 acres of land ; of this quantity 500 acres are arable, 835 meadow and pasture, 200 quarry and intakes, and 1400 moors and woodlands. The portion of land near the mill in Cowsby, pays a modus of 2/. annually to the rector of that parish. Another portion in the parish of Leake, pays annually 2/. 2s. to the Vicar of that place, and a further sum of 13s. 4d. to the Trustees of the late Warcop Consitt, Esq., of Brawith Hall. The remainder of the township as already stated, is in the parish of Over Silton. There is a respectable school in this village, attended by more than forty pupils, the master of which receives an annual payment _of 2/. out of the Kepwick estate. 304 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. OSMOTHERLEY. OSMOTHERLEY* is a parish town in the wapontake of Allerton- shire, about seven miles from Northallerton and nearly twelve from Thirsk. The situation is romantic and beautiful, on the southern slope of one of the Hambleton range of hills, and sur- rounded on three sides by woods and valleys. The scenery around is rich and finely varied, and some of the views are of great extent and beauty. The soil is of good quality, mostly devoted to meadow and pasturage. The village is open, airy, clean, and well built ; the houses being principally of stone, which is quarried in the neighbourhood, of an excellent quality for building purposes. The river Codbeck flows in a narrow valley south of the village ; * This name is supposed with great probability, to be derived from the Saxon personal appellative ‘“‘ Osmund,”’ and “ley,’’ a field—Osmunderley or the field of Osmund. The following legend as to the origin of the present name of this village is current among the inhabitants. This Village formerly called Teviotdale, was changed to that of Osmotherley from the following circumstances. ** When king Oswald’s (of Northumberland’s) son, Oswald was born, the wise men and magicians were sent for to court, to predict and foretell the life and fortune of the new born prince, they all agreed that he would be drowned. The indulgent maternal Queen would have carried him to Cheviot, a remarkable hill in their own country, but for the troubles then subsisting in the North: she therefore brought him to a lofty hill in peaceful Cleveland, called Roseberry, and caused a cell or cave to be made near the top thereof, in order to prevent his foretold unhappy death ; but, alas ! in vain, for the fates who spare nobody dissolved the rugged rocks into a flow- ing stream, and by drowning the son put a period to all the mother's cares, though not her sorrows ; for, ordering him to be interred in Teviotdale church, she mourned with such inconsolable grief, that she soon followed him, and was, according to her fervent desire, laid by her tenderly beloved darling child. The head of the mother and son, cut in stone, may be seen at the East end of Teviotdale church; and from the saying of the people ‘ Os-by-his-mother-iay,’ this place got the name of Osmotherley.” ’ ene nS A A ET a ES SO NS Sch sh i ss sssstssss-~ssesteestesnsneesstnsnenssnes = OSMOTHERLEY. 7 335 and on its sides are some extensive bleach grounds ; which business has been carried on here for a considerable period, formerly by the family of Wetherall, now by that of Bovill, whose pleasant mansion called Walk Mill, is situate by the side of the brook, near the Thirsk and Yarm turnpike road. Alum shale is abun- dant in this parish, and the manufacture of alum was formerly carried on here, but has been discontinued for some time. The parish includes the townships of Osmotherley, Ellerbeck, West Harlsey, and Thimbleby, and contains an area of 7740 acres and nearly 1500 inhabitants. At the time of the Domesday Survey this place was in the hands of the king, and is thus noticed, “ Manor. In Asmundrelac Ligulf and Eilaf, had five carucates to be taxed. Land to two ploughs.” Manor. In Elrebec, Ligulf had five carucates to be taxed. Land to two ploughs. Thirty shillings.” * From this it appears that in the year 1086, Osmotherley was held by only two tenants, who from their names seem to have been Danes. | Again, among the lands of “ Hugh the son of Baldric” in Yorkshire, we find the following entry relative to Ellerbeck, “ North Riding. Gerlestre Wapontake. Manor. In Alrebee, Gamel had one carucate of land to be taxed. There is land to half a plough. Girrard, a vassal of Hugh’s, has now there four villanes with one plough, and five acres of meadow. The whole half a mile long and two quarentens broad. Value in king Edward’s time eight pence, now three shillings.” + Osmotherley was held by the Prior and Convent of Durham de Rege in capite, and answered for the third part of a knight’s fee, but paid no rent. The CHURCH, soon after the conquest, became part of the possess- ions of the Bishops of Durham, and of their patronage. The Rectory was divided into three prebends or portions, whereupon it was esteemed a prebendal church, consisting of three preben- * Bawdwen’s Dom. Boc., p. 28. + Ibid, p. 198. Ee a ee P « a en nen 886 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. daries or rectors; in October, 1322, they were all consolidated by William de Melton, Archbishop of York, who then ordained that those three portions in the same church should be thenceforth a simple and pure prebend, and altogether free from the cure of souls for the future ; the vicar thereof then ordained taking care of the same. Notwithstanding the former ordination, the church con- tinued still in three portions or distinct prebends.* - A.D. 1322. A Vicar was here ordained by William de Melton, to consist of a mansion house and fifteen marks per ann. to be paid by the three prebendaries, together with the dead mortuaries and oblations for marriages, churchings, and burials. The Vicar to bear all ordinary burdens (except the repairing of the chancel)— I should say rebuilding it, for that is now here, and to find a priest to serve the Chapel of West Harlsey.— Archbishop Sharpe’s MS. The prebendaries of Osmotherley being mentioned on the records temp. Edw. First, some have thought this to have been a collegiate church, but it seems rather to have been only a rectory divided into three distinct parts or portions, and it is so rated in the Lincoln taxation. But it was afterwards appropriated to three sinecure portionists and a vicar endowed. Yet in the Archbishop's certificate of all Hospitals, Colleges, &c., made 37th Hen. 8th, there is—“ The three prebends simpters within the parish church of Osmotherley, the yearly value 18/.” + At the dissolution Simon Banks was a prebendary, and had an annuity of 2/. 13s. 4d., which he enjoyed in 1558: also Richard Beke was another prebendary and had a like annuity. f The benefice is a discharged vicarage, formerly in the peculiar jurisdiction of the Court of the Bishop of Durham, for Allerton and Allertonshire, now in that of York. The patronage was in the Bishops of Durham, until the erection of the see of Ripon, when it was transferred to the Bishop of that Diocese. In the valor of Pope Nicholas IV., A. D. 1292, it is valued in three parts,—pars Thorne at 9/. 6s. 8d., pars Rogeri in eadem, * Torre’s MSS., Peculiars, p. 1309. + Stevens I., p. 64. ¢ Willis. Soe Orn Oe ere a a Te ee ee Se ee OSMOTHERLEY. O07 97. 6s. 8d., pars Alterius Thorne, 9/. 6s. 8d. In the Nova Tax, twenty-six years afterwards, the parts are valued at 4d. each. In Bacon’s Liber Regis, it stands thus,—“ Clear yearly value, 127. 7s. Od. King’s Books, 8/. 10s. Od. Osmotherley, alias Os- monderley, V. (St. Peter) in Allertonshire. Of exempt jurisdic- tion. In decim: vitul. Agn. &c. Portionar. sive Preb. ‘sive Rectoria de Osmotherley. Propr. Bishop of Durham.” On June 4th, 1565, the Crown granted a lease of this Rectory for twenty-one years, to James Conyers, on paying an annual pension of 10/. to the Vicar of Osmotherley and his successors. The living was augmented in 1766, with 200/.; in 1786, with 200/.; in 1795, with 200/.; and in 1815, with 1000/., from the parliamentary grant—all by lot. Present value, 113/. per ann. The tithes of the township of Osmotherley are paid to Mr. Masterman, of Danby, near Northallerton, who receives about 210/. annually, paying the vicar 10/. The other townships are tithe-free. The glebe lands belonging to this benefice are in lay hands. The Ecclesiastical Commissioners, by an arrangement with the present Bishop of Ripon, are Lords of the Manor of Osmotherley; and as such have considerable property in leasehold and copy- hold lands, in woods, and extensive moors; as also in annual rentals of various descriptions. That body has been memorial- ised by the vicar, with the support of the last and present Bishop of Ripon, for an augmentation to this living, but without effect. The Church, dedicated to St. Peter, is pleasantly situated on the south side of the village, and is a modern structure, with a few ancient fragments. The porch is the oldest part of the building; the entrance arch is Norman, adorned with a row of _beak-headed ornaments; the outer moulding with zig-zag work, or chevrons; the shafts at the sides of the doorway are partly destroyed. A square tower at the west end, with angular but- tresses, is the next oldest part. The tower contains three bells; the middle one was broken some years ago, in a drunken freak consequent on the election of the Registrar for the Riding. This bell is very ancient, said to have been brought from Mount Grace w ce eS A RN eft AN ge ete ARR ne NR LS A, I 338 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. at the dissolution. The piece which was knocked out with a sledge hammer still lies in the belfry. The long narrow nave and chancel are both new. Short clustered columns sustain the pointed arch leading from the nave into the chancel. The win- dows are all modern, with large sash squares. The interior con- tains no inscriptions of ancient date. The following are copied from tablets against the walls of the chancel :— Ad dextram intra Cancellos Jacet Resurrectura, Maria Euphrasia Wetherall Johann. Peacock M. D. filia natu maxima. Que Anno Atatis xxxvi° mortem obiit Idibus Julii 1837. Hocce monumentum Benj. Johann. Wetherall de Walkmill Arm. In Uxorem Carissimam Pietatis ergo Fideique Ponendum Curavit. Against the north wall of the chancel, a tablet tells a dis- tressing tale of sudden bereavement. | ‘‘In token of affectionate respect and esteem for pastoral faithfulness and private worth, this tablet, erected by sorrowing parishioners and friends, records the death of William Clere Burgess, M.A., Vicar of this parish, at the early age of 37, March 10th, 1840. By the same fever which deprived the parish of his able ministrations, four of his children were brought to the house appointed for all living. Saliza, aged 10 years, died March 2nd. Susan, aged 6 years, died the same day. Charlotte, aged 2 years, the day following. William Clere, aged 4 years, March 8th. The Register Books commence in 1696, deficient in 1717—1722. | The Rev. Henry Jones, M.A., presented by the late Bishop of Ripon in 1852, is the present Vicar. Two small endowments, bequeathed by the Rev. W. Nicholson in 1757, and by Daniel Tyerman in 1786, for teaching poor chil- dren, were lost by the operation of the Mortmain Act. A handsome National School, with class-rooms, &e., has lately been completed, capable of accommodating 120 children. It is a ee EE A LE | | | | | j i ; | - OSMCTHERLEY. 339 supported by voluntary contributions, and highly spoken of in the government report for 1858. The Roman Catholics have a Chapel in this village. The Society of Friends have a Meeting-house, erected about 1690, with a small Burial-ground attached. The Wesleyan Methodists have a Chapel here, and are nu- merous in the neighbourhood. John Wesley, their founder, first preached here in 1745. On Tuesday, Sept. 17th, he makes the following entry in his journal :— “ T saw the poor remains of the old chapel on the brow of the hill, as well as those of the Carthusian monastery (called Mount Grace) which lay at the foot of it. The walls of the church, of the cloister, and some of the cells, are tolerably entire, and one may still discern the partitions between the little gardens, one of which belonged to every cell.” Osmotherley had formerly a market, which was held on Satur- day, but it has long been discontinued. The cross yet remains— a broken square shaft, the base supported by three steps; near it is a singular stone table, for what purpose erected we know not; it is apparently of considerable age. The assessed property in the parish is valued at 6840/., and the poor-rates in 1848 were 354/. 2s. That of the township of Osmotherley, 1803/., poor-rates 1611. 1s. ee os ar pa tn ann tere inate tit lias tics taste lest astitnioceiteetmeiasits amiien saneicttigriaanaieniitanienrstst singleton cape en en ater nN I A hee tne wR oh 340 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. WEST HARLSEY Is a township pleasantly situated on an eminence to the west- ward of Osmotherley. At the time of the Domesday survey, it was in the hands of the King, and occupied by Ligulf, and was rated at three carucates and a half. Land to two ploughs. Sub- sequently a castle was erected here, but of its history we know very little. Leland says that here “Strangwaise the judge ” builded a praty castelle.” Of this “praty” building very few frag- ments remain. Three large vaults, with circular arches, have been converted into stalls for cattle, the outer ashler work has been torn down, and removed, and a mass of solid grouting alone remains; the top is overgrown with bushes andivy. The most southerly vault yet exhibits the remains of a fire-place. A large sguare tower stood where the kitchen of the farm-house now stands, until the year 1815, when it was struck by lightning on Palm Saturday, and rent from top to bottom in such a manner, that it was obliged to be taken down. A woman sitting by the fire was struck by the electric fluid at the same time, her cap was set on fire, but, strange to say, she was not otherwise harmed. She preserved the fragments of the head dress till the time of her death, as a memento of her narrow escape at that time. The Harlsey estate is now the property of the Earl of Harewood. y a ee ee THIMBLEBY. 341 THIMBLEBY, A TOWNSHIP and village in the parish of Osmotherley, lies on the south side of the brook Codbeck. The Lodge, a mansion sur- rounded by splendid sylvan and mountain scenery, is the seat a Robert Haynes, Esq. This village is slightly mentioned in Domesday, as pertaining to the soke of the manor of Northallerton, then in the hands of the King. During the seventeenth century, the lordship of Thimbleby was one of the many domains of the great Yorkshire house of Wandesford, afterwards Earls Wandesford, in Ireland. Its last owner of that name was Sir Christopher Wandesford, who was attainted by King James’s Parliament, in 1689, and had his estates sequestered, but on the Revolution, was sworn of the privy council by King William, and again, in 1702, by Queen Anne, who advanced him to the peerage of Ireland in 1706, as Baron Wandesford and Viscount Castlecomer. In the year 1694 he sold the manor of Thimbleby to Richard Pierse, Esq., of Hutton Bon- ville, second son of John Pierse, of Bedale. In 1838, Mr. R. W. C. Pierse sold Thimbleby Lodge, with the estate attached, to Robert Haynes, Esq., of Barbadoes, the present owner. The family of Haynes is of considerable antiquity in England, and being staunch loyalists, had to emigrate to Barbadoes during the Commonwealth, where they became large landed proprietors. Richard Haynes, Esq., married Anne Elcock, and had by her, besides other issue,— 342 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Robert, who represented St. John’s, Barbadoes, where he acted as a magistrate. He was Lieutenant-General of Militia of that island, and also for 35 years a member and Speaker of the House of Assembly, Barbadoes. He married Thomasine, daughter of — Clarke, Esq., and relict of Nathaniel Barrow, Esq., by whom he had, besides other issue,— Robert Haynes, Esq., now of Thimbleby Lodge, who married firstly, May 25th, 1815, Sarah Anne, daughter of Joseph Payne, Esq., of Barbadoes, by whom he had three children, Robert, Sarah-Anne, and Jane Alleyne. He married secondly, Sept. 26th, 1825, Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Reece, Esq., and by her has issue,—William, Edmund Lee, Jonathan Wynyerd, Elizabeth, Caroline Anne, Frederick Hutchinson, and Henry. Mr. Haynes, when in Barbadoes, was for 13 years a magistrate and member of the House of Assembly of that island. Arms: Quarterly, 1st and 4th, arg. three crescents paly, wavy, gules and az.; 2nd and 3rd, two billets, argent. Crest: A stork; wings displayed ppr., in the beak a serpent of the last. ee a A LE LL LS L,I AN NE NN a Ste tend RA one fst i lt a nh tp ama apt . - ES SS Se ttesetinaitseeniseh . ee - MOUNT GRACE PRIORY. 343 MOUNT GRACE PRIORY. Aout two miles from the village of Osmotherley, and one from the once-busy Cleveland Tontine Inn, are the ruins of the Car- thusian Priory of Mount Grace. The situation is at once roman- - tic and secluded, at the western foot of a steep wooded mountain, which rises abruptly from the walls to the eastward, so that in the winter months the sun would have to ascend high in the heavens before the lonely monastery would be illumined by the cheerful light. This gloom might be suitable to the rigid aus- terity of the Carthusians, who followed the strictest rule of mo- nastic life. : About the year 1396, Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey, Earl of Kent, and Lord Wake, founded this house, and dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin and St. Nicholas. He endowed it with his manor of Bordelby, prope Cleveland, and willed, for the future, that it should be called the House of Mount Grace, of Ingleby; and by assent of the prior of the Grand Carthusians, made Robert de Treadway the first prior, to whom and his successors, he granted and confirmed in pure alms his said manor of Bordelby, to be an habitation for the said prior and monks, and their suc- cessors; and enjoined them especially to recommend in their masses, prayers, and divine services, the good estates of King Richard II. and Queen Isabella, his consort; and of himself, the said Thomas, Duke of Surrey, and Joan, his wife.* In the 22nd Richard II., at the special instance of the same Thomas, Duke of Surrey, the King granted to Edmund, prior of the house of Mount Grace, and the monks thereof, and their suc- * Vide Charter of Foundation, Dug. Mon. Ang., vol. 1. p. 968. ——$____ a 344. THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. cessors, the lands and possessions of the Religious at Hinckley, in the county of Leicester, of Wharham, in Dorsetshire, and of Caresbrook, in Southamptonshire, three alien priories belonging to the abbey of St. Mary, in Lyra, in Normandy, to hold the same as long as the war between England and France should continue. But he dying soon after in arms against King Henry IV., before all the buildings were finished, the work was at a stand, and the right of the monks to their possessions questioned, - till King Henry VI., in the year 1440, confirmed in parliament all the duke’s grants to them. The buildings were then com- pleted, and the austere brethren continued on the spot until the general dissolution of the monastic orders in England. The habits of the Carthusians were entirely white, except a plaited black cloak. Their bed was of straw, and on it a felt or coarse cloth; their covering of sheep skins, or the coarsest cloth ; their clothing, two hair cloths, two cowls, two pairs of hose, cloak, &c., all coarse.* The revenues of this house at the dissolution, were found to be 382/. 5s. 114d. gross, and 323/. 2s. 104d. net.| John Wilson was * Fosbroke’s Brit. Monach., chap. LIx. ert op + A. D. 1553, here remained in charge Me ee 10 0 0 In fees ‘s pe ee 52 0 0 And the following pensions, viz. :— To the last prior (John Wilson) .. an oe 60 0 0 To Henry Harris and Robert Marshall, £7 each 33 14 0 0 To Richard Shipping, Thomas Diconson, Wm. Prisse. and Leonard Hall, £6 lds. 4d. each — 2613 4 To Jno. Wills and Roger Thompson, £3 6s. 8d. cca 2 613 4 To Robt. Shepley and Jno. Saunderson, £2 each ee 40 0 The list of priors is very deficient, the following being all that are given by Burton :— 1396: Robert Tredway. 1399: Edmundus Thomas John Wilson, the last prior. The following testamentary burials took place here :— William Anthorp, rector of Deghton, by will proved in 1432, ordered his body to be buried in St. Mary’s Church at Mountgrace, and gave thereto a chalice of silver, giit, and twelve spoons. Joan, relict of Sir William de Ingleby, Knt., by her will proved in 1478. Thomas Darel, Esq., of Sezay, by will proved in 1500. James Strangwaies, of West Laythes, in Whorlton parish, by will er in 1534, was interred here. 142 : Robert Layton. 1476: a ES TARR ‘ ‘ ‘: a A MOUNT GRACE PRIORY. 345 the last prior. The surrender was enrolled on the 18th Decem- ber, 31st of Henry VIII., and in the following year the king granted to James Strangwaies, Knight, the site of the priory of Mount Grace, in the county of York, with the church, bells, and cemetary belonging to the same; two fields, called Calf Closes ; the meadow called Broadings, and the manor of Moreton, near East Harlsey, in the same county, which lately belonged to the monas- tery of Rievaux ; to hold of the king in capite by military service. Strang waies soon afterwards disposed of the site of the priory to Thomas Lascelles, Esq., who converted part of the monastic buildings into a mansion. This was done in the year 1569, as appears by that date, and the initials T. L., which yet remain over the principal entrance. It was subsequently sold by the Rey. Robert Lascelles, to the Mauleverers, in the representative of which family in yet continues.* Though situated less than half a mile from the high road, the ruins are so surrounded by lofty trees, that they are not visible until we come close to them. The part converted by Thomas Lascelles into a mansion, is that which first meets the view, and is yet inhabited by the families of the workmen on the estate ; its aspect is more modern than other parts of the building, having windows in the Tudor style. The west front is 220 yards in length, the walls of a considerable part of it are yet of their ori- ginal height, partly flanked by buttresses of four stages each. The southern end is mantled with ivy of the most luxuriant growth; near the entrance is a gigantic plant of an uncommon kind, distinguished by the smallness of its leaf from the common ivy. The entrance into the enclosure is by a gateway thirteen feet wide, which has had a room above it; the groining has fallen down, leaving the main arches, three in number, yet standing. Turning to the right, we come upon the foundation of a range of buildings, eighteen feet wide within, by one hundred in length. It has been two stories in height; the lower does not appear to have been lighted from the west, and the wall on the other side * Arms: Sable, three greyhounds courant in pale, argent, collared or. Crest: a maple branch arising out of the trunk ofatree. Motto: En Dieu ma Foy. | | | | | | | 346 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. is now broken down; the upper has had five square-headed win- dows of two lights each, the openings of which are now almost hid by the compact growth of ivy. Along the southern side has | also been a range of buildings twenty feet wide, the upper part lighted by a range of square-headed windows of two lights each, opening to the south. The outer wall is yet of the original height; the inner is broken down to the ground; the gable at the east end is yet complete. The lofty outer wall is continued along the east side, close to the foot of the thickly-wooded hill. The remains of the church are on the north side of this enclosure, and constitute the most picturesque part of the ruins; the tower, nave, — transept, and north wall of the choir yet remain of considerable height. It has been of the usual cruciform shape, with a slender } | | | | | square tower rising at the junction of the cross. The chancel has | been about forty feet in length, by thirty in breadth; the east : end and south side walls have disappeared, and a large ash tree has grown within, since it was abandoned by the monks. The north wall yet remains about half its length, of the original height, with two windows of three lights each. The nave is about forty-five feet in length, by twenty-seven in breadth; the walls are nearly complete. The north transept is nine feet in length, from the line of the nave, and twenty-two in breadth. A piscina in the wall yet points out the place where an altar has stood. The south transept is of the same breadth as the north, but twenty-two feet in length. Part of the tracery yet remains in the great south window of this transept; it has been of five lights. The tower is about fourteen feet square, and stands on the eastern side of the transept, resting on four neat pointed arches. The winding stone staircase, which is very narrow, yet | remains nearly perfect, a few steps on the upper part being want- ing: it has only ascended into the chamber where the bells have been rung. The tower is apparently of its original height, but the upper part is wreathed around with such a compact mass of ivy, that none of the stone work on the outside is visible. Passing from the Church, we enter another enclosure on the north, which may be denominated the quadrangle; it is surroun- a aie SC Se Se ee ssn e-em i MOUNT GRACE PRIORY. 347 ded by a high wall, in which may be seen the doorways into the cells of the monks, which have been arranged around it, twenty in number, five on each side of the square. On one side of the entrance of each is an opening about a foot square, half way through the wall, then turning at a right angle into the cell just beyond the door ; through which provisions or any other small articles might be received into the cell without opening the door. Opposite the end of the north transept is a shallow trough, about forty inches in length by ten in breadth, where probably the monks per- _formed ablution before entering the church. Over the door of a cell at the south-east corner, are the arms of the Scropes of Upsall, carved in stone. The cells have ranged completely round this enclosure, and have been about twenty feet square, of two stories in height, and the lower rooms, at least on the gloomy eastern side, ‘have been lighted by three small windows each. There also ap- pears to have been a small chapel or private confessional attached to each cell, if we may judge from what seems to have been the piscina of an altar in a small apartment on one side of every cell. But the arrangement of the offices, cells, and all parts of the mo- nastic buildings, are so different from those of the Benedictine and Cistercian houses, that no elucidation of the distribution of the - apartments can be obtained from a comparison with the well known plans on which those houses were generally built; nor, indeed, do any of the monastic ruins in the county present any similarity to this; it is doubly interesting as the unique specimen of a Carthusian house in Yorkshire. No tombs or inscriptions of any kind are visible ; an excavation of the site would probably disclose many interesting curiosities, as well as many peculiarities in the economy of this, the most austere of the monastic orders. Nor would it be difficult or expensive to make the site of this monastery one of the most pleasing and in- teresting spots in the North Riding. Clear out the rubbish, and ruins from the church and cells; form the area into a lawn or orchard, intersected with walks and adorned with shrubs and flowers, and it would form an object not easily surpassed in attraction. eran SS rush ser ss een ae sn A SNE GS ¢ cen 348 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. The kitchen is in the southern enclosure, west of the church, and is in such a complete state, that were it roofed over and pro- perly furnished, it would yet answer its original purpose. The chimney is of its full height ; part of the oven, built of bricks for baking bread remains, and the stones at the back of the ample fire-place are still red with their former fires. On the western side of the house was situate the mill, that necessary adjunct of every monastic establishment; the remains of the fish-ponds, equally indispensable, can yet be traced. Ata short distance from the south-east corner of the ruins, just within the wood, is the WELL which supplied the priory with water: it is walled round and covered with a neat dome of hewn stone. It is called St. John’s well by all but young ladies, who call it the wishing well; and a source of amusement it is to them to thrust pins through ivy leaves, throw them into the water, and then utter the wish most dear to the heart. What that may be we cannot pretend to know, and if we knew durst not presume to tell. The first time we visited the ruins we saw many of the pin-stuck leaves in the water; there had been a pic-nic or social tea party in the priory during the day. We drank of the water, which is excellent, and while doing so, had the audacity to think that we had— ** Mused on ruins grey With years; and drank from old and fabulous wells.” On the summit of the mountain east of the priory, near the place where the stone was quarried for its erection, are the ruins of a small building called the Lady Chapel, which was founded in the year 1515. It is of very difficult access, and does not at present contain any thing remarkable. Numerous miracles are reported to have been performed in this Chapel by our Lady’s help, such as the sudden recovery of a child that seemed dead, and the cure of many from the sweating sickness and other afflicting maladies.* This would be in the days of the “ancient faith,” when credulity abounded more than now. At present both our Lady and her chapel are left to neglect and desecration. * Graves’ Cleveland, p. 135. ‘ — MOUNT GRACE PRIORY. | 349 THE HAMBLETON HILLS. Any account of the Vale of Mowbray, leaving out the Hambleton* Hills would be incomplete, as they form its eastern boundary, and add much to the variety and beauty of its scenery. This range of hills may be styled the Western front of the Eastern moorlands of Yorkshire; a tract of country extending about twenty miles from south to north, by about sixty from east to west. It is an elevated, and generally sterile region, rising into many bleak and barren mountains, yet intersected by valleys of great fertility and beauty. The western front of this lofty region is alone known by the name of Hambleton. From the village of Kilburn,} an hour’s walk brings us to the top of Rolston Scar, the most south-westerly point of this range *** This name,” says the learned and unfortunate Eugene Aram, “is derived not from the elevation of these hills, but from their figure to the eye ; which is that of half a globe, with the convexity upwards. Any hill, or mountain of such a form, the Irish to this day call Hemmel, and they imposed this name immediately from their resemblance to the heavens considered as to their convexity. The syllable don, or dun, Mons, needs no illustration.”” Hamildon or Hambleton, therefore signifies, the Heavenly mountain. The name appears to be found in many languages—as the Himalaya, or heavenly mountains of India; the Sanscrit, himala, corresponding to Meso-Gothic, Aimins, Alemmanic ; himil, ‘Gatun Swedish, and Je hemmel: Old Norse, himin ; Dutch, hemel. + On the steep side of the hill the figure of a large ieee horse was cut in the turf in November, 1857. The projector was Mr. Thomas Taylor, a native of Kilburn, now resident in London. The total length of this equine monster is one hundred and eighty feet, and the height eighty feet, the quantity of ground he covers is three roods—to make a fence around him would enclose two acres—six tons of lime were employed in giving him the requisite whiteness, and thirty-three men were at work on him November 4th, the day he was completed. The land he stands on belongs to Mr. Henry Dresser of Kilburn Hall. Onaclear day this figure can be seen at an immense distance. | Ghat 300 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. of hills. The face of this cliff is an abrupt precipice two hundred feet in depth, at the foot of which lie scattered immense masses of broken fragments which have fallen from the face of the cliff, which is of oolitic limestone, ragged, jagged, and uneven. To- wards the south and west the prospect is of unlimited vastness, the earth and sky appearing to melt into each other on the far- away horizon. An enumeration of a few of the most easily dis- tinguished places may not be uninteresting ; standing on the crest of the hill, “ turning with easy eye,” towards the south-east, the eye gladly rests upon the ivy-clad ruins of Byland Abbey. A little southward is Newburgh Park, the site of another monastery, sub- sequently the mansion of earls Fauconberg, and now that of Sir George Orby Wombwell, Bart. The grassy glades, lofty groves, woods and waters round the house, constitute a most delightful picture. On the eminence, nearly south, stands the pleasant village of Coxwold, with its elegant church, rich in Fauconberg monuments. Beyond, is seen Craike Castle, on its conical hill, and that splendid pile, York Minster, massive and grand, seem- ing as if ambitious to lift its head to the level of the peak on which we stand. Over the plain to the south and south-west, the eye wanders delighted, though somewhat confused, for the _ picture is too large to comprehend, and the objects far too multi- farious to describe. The hills of Craven and Wensleydale bound the prospect on the west, and the long Vale of Mowbray stretches towards the north. The only object we appear to need to com- pose a complete picture of natural beauty, is a view of the sea, with its vast amplitude and sublime associations. Close to the west of “this specular mount,” separated from it only by a nar- row valley, is Hood Hill, a detached eminence partly covered with wood. Near its top is a huge block of iii which some have deemed a Druidical altar. The land, on the top of the hill is, generally speaking, level ; along the edge the soil is of a good quality, enclosed and culti- vated, resting directly on a bed of limestone; a short distance eastward, it is of a peaty nature, more sterile, and covered with short bushy ling. | | mempemaanst a enon: eee enenreNNR Eee a ries canner iar ge emma a tr RE. = RE. EM Se ea te) THE HAMBLETON HILLS. 351 What must strike the traveller with most astonishment in this elevated and now thinly inhabited region, is the great number of barrows and earth-works, consisting of trenches, dykes, and other defensive erections spread over it. They are unquestionably of great antiquity ; they have been erected at a great cost of labour, and from their bulk and frequency, indicate that at some remote period this has been the home of a population far more numerous than at the present time. They cannot have been the work of an agricultural community, for the district around them neither is, nor. ever has been, cultivated to any extent. Their situation and structure point them out as the work of a pastoral and war- like people; and despite the fictions of the poets, the pastoral age was always a barbarous one. The mind instinctively asks, by whom, and at what period, were these works erected? Conjecture must supply the place of historic fact; and we should refer to the Romano-British period, as the most probable of their erection; and suppose that the Brigantes, driven from the plains by the civilised and better armed Romans, made their dwellings on these hills, and fortified them against a sudden surprise; whence they could make incur- sions on the plains below, and here find a safe retreat for them- selves and plunder, in case of attack. The bogs, moors, rocks, and impassible glens of the moorland region, stretching away to the North Sea, afforded them the means of defence, and rendered a successful invasion almost impossible. If such was the time when these mounds were raised, and these hills occupied,—and we cannot point to any other period so likely, or with so many con- curring circumstances favouring the conjecture,—these barrows and earth-works have existed at least 1600 years. The first mound we met with after ascending the hill, is a tumulus about six feet in height, and forty yards in circumfe- rence; it does not appear to have been opened; there is a cup- shaped cavity in the top, about three feet deep. : Pointing directly at Hood Grange, and running easterly across the ridge towards Oldstead, is a mound twelve yards wide, by about nine feet in height, with a trench of corresponding width nearer epeyyanenesewey ter Semmes oe hnee oe gainers Om LA LS eT TCC IY IR ORD SY EE RE NS NS A WR ey et NE NY gee ee AR a aera pase | | Tae THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. and depth on the northern side. This has been a work of im- mense labour; how far it runs in an easterly direction we know not, as we did not explore its full extent. Deep traces of ancient trackways, which have been much used, run along the highest part of the hill, north and south. Another trench about seven feet deep, with a ridge on each side, crosses in an easterly direc- tion, about two hundred yards south of the road leading from Thirsk to Helmsley. Here we first obtain a view into the ro- mantic Rydale, with the wolds in the back ground. Duncombe Terrace, with a temple at each end, is a very conspicuous object ; beneath, embowered in thick woods, are the venerable remains of Rievaux Abbey, but not visible from this place. Towards the north-east, hills peep over hills, and one bleak heathy ridge rises behind another to a great distance. The Hambleton Houses, well known in the sporting world from the number of race-horses trained there, are about half a mile to the eastward.* These houses, with the lands adjoining, were formerly the property of the Knights of St. John. On the dissolicnon of that Commandery, they came into the hands of the Archbishops of York, and were held on lease by the family of Elsley, until the year 1853. The villages of Cold Kirby and Scawton are seen, a little lower down, on the road leading to Helmsley. About sixty yards from this road, to the north, is another tumulus, about seven feet high, and _ forty-five yards in circuit, with a hollow basin in the top, about fifteen feet in diameter; near which is another of a conical form, apparently complete. We now approach the dizzy summit of the White-stone Cliff,t the deepest precipice in the whole range; it has also suffered the most recent disruption ; the massive fragments which have fallen * Hambleton, if not the birth place, was the draining ground of Baron Ward, one of the most extraordinary characters of modern times. He was brought up as a jockey, and left Hambleton as a boy in the pay of Prince Lichtenstein, of Hungary. Few men have passed a more romantic life than Ward,—the groom, statesman, and friend of sovereigns. He died at Vienna, Oct, 12th, 1858, pursuing the rustic occu- pation of a farmer, carrying with him to the grave many curious state secrets. + This cliff, with the pasture and wood below it, called Garbut, to the edge of Gormire, is the property of C. H. Elsley, Esq., Recorder of York, and was purchased from the late Mrs, Lawrence, of Studley Royal, about forty years ago, along with the extra-parochial place called White-stone Cliff, or more properly, White-stone Cote. HAMBLETON HILLS. 300 from the face, lie piled in irregular confusion at the bottom, from whence a thick tangled wood extends down to the side of Gormire Lake, A beautiful sheet of water, sleeping calm and tranquil in its hollow bed, formed at some remote period, by a land-slip from the face and foot of the neighbouring precipice. Of this move-— ment there are yet evident traces in the many waves, or swells of land, which have rolled outwards, towards the village of Sutton ; the face of the country being broken by deep narrow glens, or rather gullies, unseen until we are just on their brinks, as though the matter had rushed down in a semi-liquid state, and stiffened before it had time to find its level. Coming suddenly upon this fine sheet of water, without any warning of its proximity, we look down upon it with surprise and delight. The romantic beauty of its situation and the scenery around are its chief at- tractions. Though on elevated ground, the land rises from it on all sides, soon to fall again, except towards the cliff. A path runs round the lake, the circuit of which we were told is exactly amile. There is no supply of water but what is derived from rain or unseen springs; and the only outlet is a swallow in the rock, on the side nearest the cliff, into which, in a wet season, the water rushes with great rapidity; popular report says it finds its way under the mountain, and again emerges to daylight near the village of Coid Kirby, some three miles distant. More probably it supplies the very copious springs near Hood Grange. The lake is of a circular form, elongated to a point towards the north-west. The depth in the middle is twenty-seven feet, thence shelving to the sides, where the water is quite shallow; its whole area is twenty-seven acres. It is not to be expected that such a water in such a situation should be without its legend. Here stood,— says the voice of tradition,;—a long time ago, a populous town; one night, suddenly, the earth opened and swallowed it up, and in its place a lake, without a bottom, appeared. The lake and the adjoining farm are the property of Sir George Orby Wombwell, Bart., of Newburgh Park. Before the enclo- x ——— eee ——— ee tN CC CCL A, CCC tA CT CE Et A I CC TT CRN A AR ES tS th tc A A 304 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. sure of the common lands, the lake alone belonged to the Earls Fauconberg. The canons of Newburgh held it before the disso- lution of that priory. The waters are beautifully clear and trans- parent, the resort of numerous wild-fowl, and well stocked with pike. CAhtiestone Clif. To describe the prospect from the top of this cliff is an impossi- bility ; it must be seen to be properly appreciated, and once seen, will not readily be forgotten. Standing with our faces to the west, the mountain edge bends round with a grand semicircular sweep to the high and broken cliff already mentioned, called Roulston Scar; the two promontories on the sides of a bay, now dry, but at one time filled by the waters of a tumultuous sea, which overspread the level plain below, and dashed its cold waves against these lofty rocks. Another bold reach stretches north- ward, and terminates beyond the long plain at Boltby Scar. The cliff is of limestone, and derives its name from its colour— White-stone Cliff. The appellation White Mare, sometimes given to it, is said to be from an unruly racer of that colour, which : broke from the training ground near at hand, and with her rider leaped down the cliff. A doggerel rhyme, current in the neigh- bourhood, says,— When Hambleton Hills are covered with corn and hay, The white mare of Whit’s n’cliff will lead it away. The front of the rock is about two hundred feet in perpendi- cular height, composed of jagged and fractured oolitic limestone, _ in beds varying from one foot to four in thickness. The length of the naked rock is about five hundred yards, but these measures are only approximations, and do not pretend to exactness. Im- mense heaps of rock have fallen from the face of the cliff at dif- ferent times, and lie piled in confusion at the bottom. The last ~ and most remarkable fall was on March 25th, 1755, when loud. reports, like the explosions of cannon, were heard to issue from the cliff; soon after masses of rock, from fifty to sixty feet in — ———— i HAMBLETON HILLS. 300 thickness, were torn off and hurled into the valley with a noise like the eruption of a voleano.* ‘Traces of this yet appear in the face of the cliff, and in the blocks of freshly broken stone at its base. , ** Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild, With mossy trees and pinnacles of flint, And many a hanging crag i At the foot of the cliff, about midway of its length, is a natural. cave among the rocks, called “ The Fairies’ Parlour ;” the upper _ part or roof appears to have been formed by the accidental falling together of large fragments of rock, and the cave itself is only one of those natural fissures, common in all limestone districts: it is about six feet wide at the bottom, by about twenty yards in length, of a wedge shape. The top of this precipice forms the commencement of another level district, the land high and dry, stretching away with a gentle slope towards the east. The hills seen in the distance appear all of nearly equal altitude, mostly with a level area on the top. | Deviating a little from our course along the edge of the hill, a few fields east of the Whitestone Cliff, we come upon a barrow, * For the fullest account extant of the fall of this cliff, we give the following ex- tract from John Wesley’s Journal, vol 11., p. 285; it is evidently much exaggerated :— 1755. On Thursday, March 25th, many persons observed a great noise near a ridge of mountains in Yorkshire, called Black Hamilton. It was observed chiefly in the south-west side of the mountain, about a mile from the course where the Hamilton races are run, near a ridge of rocks called Whiston Cliffs, or Whiston White Mare, two miles from Sutton, about five from Thirsk. The same noise was heard on Wed- nesday by all who went that way. On Thursday, about seven in the morning, Edward Abbot, weaver, and Adam Bosomworth, bleacher, both of Sutton, riding under Whiston Cliffs, heard a roaring (as they termed it) like many cannons, or loud and rolling thunder. It seemed to come from the cliffs, looking up to which, they saw a large body of stone, four or five yards broad, split and fiy off from the very top of the rocks. ‘they thought it strange, but rode on. Between ten and eleven, a larger piece of the rock, about fifteen yards thick, thirty high, and between sixty and seventy broad, was torn off and thrown into the valley. About seven in the evening, one who was riding by observed the ground to shake exceedingly, and soon after several large stones or rocks, of some tons weight each, rose out of the ground. Others were thrown on one side, others turned upside down, and many rolled over and over ; being a littie surprised, and not very curious, he hasted on his way. On Friday and Saturday the ground continued to shake, and the rocks to roll over one another. The earth also clave asunder in very many places, and continued to do so until Sunday morning. er pn OR te i ee OA A SN A CE ST A A RR A NL i 356 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. far the largest we have seen upon this hill, it being no less than ninety yards in circumference, and at least twelve feet in height, made up of small stones and earth: like many others it has a | basin-shaped cavity on its summit. 4 The universality of these mounds as funeral monuments is very — remarkable: they are found scattered nearly all over the world, and appear to have been erected with care and preserved with reverence by the early inhabitants of nearly all countries.* As the bulk of the barrow is said to indicate the consequence of the person buried beneath, he who sleeps under “this heap of gathered ground” must have been chief of the clan dwelling here; but whosoever he was, “he had no poet and is dead,” and his burial mound “is now a nameless barrow.” Extending northwards from the Whitestone Cliff is the Long Plain, noted as a training ground for race horses, a purpose for \ which it is well adapted, being a mile at least in length, and of ample breadth, the surface level and dry, covered with short, tough, benty grass. Along the middle of this level area, and about two hundred yards from the edge of the hill, runs a kind of broad, shallow trench, evidently of artificial formation ; judging from what remains, it has been about eight feet in width, divided into compartments of about the same length; the divisions be- tween the different pits are about three feet thick. This is, almost beyond a doubt, the site of a British village,—the different ge ee er meer eee a nr re amen a ee sp nO A AREA ERTS AAS Reena te sn ane Sr * * There are few finer prospects than that of Woronitz, viewed a few versts from the town on the road to Paulovsky. Throughout the whole of this country are seen, dispersed over immense plains, mounds of earth covered with fine turf; the sepul- chres of the ancient world, common to almost every habitable country. If there exist anything of former times which may afford monuments of antedeluvian man- ners, it is this mode of burial. They seem to mark the progress of population in the first ages after the dispersion—rising wherever the posterity of Noah came. Whe- ther under the form of a mound in Scandinavia and Russia; a barrow in England ; a cairn in Wales, Scotland, and ireland ; or of those heaps which the modern Greeks eall Tepe ; or lastly, of the more artificial shape of a pyramid in Egypt,—they had universally the same origin. They present the simplest and sublimest monument which any generation could raise over the bodies of their progenitors ; calculated for almost endless duration, and speaking a language more impressive than the most studied epitaph on Farian marble. When beheld in a distant evening horizon, skirted by the rays of a setting sun, and, as it were, touching the clouds which hover over them, imagination pictures the spirits of heroes of remote periods de- scending to irradiate a warrior’s grave.’’—Clarke’s Travels in Russia. Pe Ue nee Set eee CER SES Pe Sa ee ee ee HAMBLETON HILLS. | 357 compartments in the trench were their dwellings. Their appear- ance agrees with the accounts given of British habitations by the Roman historians. The houses were sunk into the earth, and a slight wattled superstructure built over them, which was thatched with straw, or covered with sods.* Such pits as these are nu- merous in Yorkshire, especially in the eastern moorlands, on the borders of Cleveland, and on the moors a few miles west of Whitby. Around Roseberry Topping they are to be seen in great abundance; the hollows are many of them of greater size than these, but the situation is somewhat similar. On the same plain, almost close to the pit dwellings, are five barrows, serving further to strengthen the view already taken of the British origin of these works. “ From the hut of the living it is but a step to the house of the dead.” At the end of the “ Long Plain,” and partly in a small planta- tion of firs, is a circular encampment, comprising more than an acre, surrounded with a formidable earthen embankment; in the centre of the area is a large barrow. This has probably been a fortified camp, into which the inhabitants of the adjacent village could retire in case of sudden surprise, and where, probably, their wealth was deposited. This work is just above the edge of the preci- pitous cliff called Boltby Scar. The line of pit dwellings is to be seen in an enclosed allotment to the north of the Long Plain, and perhaps further still, but there the hand of cultivation has marred its distinctness. It is only in such places as this, where the plough has never passed, that we find any extensive remains of the dwel- lings of the aboriginal inhabitants of the country. We pass another tumulus, a trench and mound, before we reach a farm house on the edge of the hill, called the Wild Goose Nest. * “British villages are groups of shallow pits, or rather of bowl-shaped excavations on the surface of the ground.”—Wrighi’s Celt, Sc., p. 87. * Of these humble structures we have only the foundations. The ground is exca- vated in a circular shape so as to make a pit from six to eight, or even sixteen or eighteen feet in diameter, with a raised border, and of the depth of three, four, or five feet. Over this cavity we must suppose the branches of trees placed to form a conical roof, which perhaps might be made weatherproof by wattling,—a covering of rushes or sods.” —Phillips’ Rivers, §c., of Yorkshire, p. 202. 358 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. About two miles further north the turnpike road crosses the hill from Kepwick to Arden and Helmsley. About a hundred yards south of this road, on the common, near the first enclosure going eastward, are the remains of a number of pit dwellings, extending in a line eastward, and a mound and trench running south-west to a considerable distance. In short, hardly a prominent emi- nence is seen in all this dry region where the limestone appears near the surface, without a barrow, dike, or earthwork of some kind, memorial of its early inhabitants. The next object of interest to the traveller along this mountain road is a small public house, situated more than a mile from any neighbour, called “the Limekiln House;” probably the builder intended it as an Hospital of St. Bernard to the wayfarers in this wild region, or perhaps he had heard of those “ who built them- selves houses in desolate places,” and strove to imitate them. The road past it was formerly much frequented by drovers, who carried their cattle along this wild no-road to avoid the payment of tolls to which they would have been subjected when passing along the public roads. From its height, 1148 feet above the level of the sea, the cultivation of corn cannot be carried on profitably, although the soil is of good quality. Its situation exposes it to every tem- pest, at the same time it must be one of the places first illumined by the sun in the morning, and last left to darkness in the evening. North of the public house, Hambleton assumes a more rugged and forbidding aspect, covered with peat of great thickness, and blackened over with ling of large growth, and does not present anything very interesting except to the sportsman. The hills north of “ Hambleton-end” have different names, as—Arncliffe and the “ Banks,” named from the different villages in Cleveland ~ to which they are nearest. Wild as the road is we have passed along, it is probably the route taken by the Scottish army under Robert Bruce, in 1322, when they pursued the retreating army of the English under Edward II., and overtook and defeated it near Byland Abbey. There is yet a tradition in Cleveland of a Scottish army passing through Scarth Nick, a narrow gorge at the northern end of this mountain road, and that the commanders were in such ce ee ee On ne A OT ET em bs) Cn nen — kindness and hospitality of the inhabitants. — HAMBLETON HILLS. | 359 haste, that they obliged the inhabitants to accompany them with torches during the night to shew the road, and that the Scots were much bewildered in the dark and narrow pass, by the torch bearers simultaneously extinguishing their lights. When the keen north wind is whistling, and the snow drift gathering, it is not very pleasant dwelling among these hills; but in the summer season, on a fine day, a more agreeable ramble cannot well be imagined than that we have followed; the scenery — of the country below, viewed from such a lofty position, is alone worth the labour of the ascent, and we can bear witness to the APPENDIX. NO. I. The following enumeration and valuation of the estates of Roger de Mowbray, at the time of his decease, is from a paper in possession of Frederick Bell, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Thirsk, which has been copied in the reign of Queen Elizabeth from the records in the Tower of London :— Inquisition post mortem made of the knights’ fees, church livings, &c., of Roger de Mowbray, at the time of his death, made in York, the 8th day of May, 29th of Edward I., A.D. 1300, on the oaths of William de Castleley, Ade de Winkesley, William Grafford, Richard son — of Ralph de Kirkbye, Robert de Colton, Roger Rabbott, Robert Foxe, Henry de Haasham, Henry de Colton, William son of Ralph de Thock- with, John Scott de Cawode, and William de Cawode, who say that William de Aldfield held of Roger de Mowbray at the time of his de- cease, three carucates of land in Aldfield and Stodley, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth 6/7. per ann. Agnes fili John de Stodley held three carucates of land, in Stodley, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth 6/7. per ann. John filius Alan de Walkingham held two carucates of land and two mills (duo molendi) in Acerh and Kirkebye, as the sixth part of a knight’s fee, worth 107. per ann. Roger de Boltoft and Thomas de Boltoft held two carucates of land in Acerh and Kirkebye, as the sixth part of a knight’s fee, worth 47. per ann. John de Walkingham held one carucate of land in Braithwit, as the eighth part of a knight’s fee, worth 40s. per ann. Richard Folliott held one carucate and a half of land in Winkesley, as the thirty-sixth part of a knight’s fee, worth 60s. per ann. Robert de Nonewick Jun. held one carucate of land in Ket- tesmore, as the twentieth part of a knight’s fee, worth 20s. per ann. The Abbot of Fountains held three carucates of land in Swetton, Carlemore, and Kirkebye, as the fifty-third part of a knight’s fee, worth 30s. per ann. The same Abbot held two carucates of land in Grewelthorpe, as the eighth part of a knight’s fee, worth 47. per ann. Isabella Le Grace and Thomas de la Christene held two carucates of land in Grantley, as the sixth part of a knight’s fee, worth 40s per ann. Alan le Oyselour held one bovate of land in Kirkebye, as the ninety-sixth part of a knight’s fee, worth 5s. per ann. Honoribus Benesit held half a carucate a a ne elie cn RG A RN A NF a ee ne a en ee ent nn et a a te Ns na es same APPENDIX. | 361 of land in Grewelthorpe, as the twenty-fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth 20s. per anu. The Prior of Newbrough held one carucate of land in Mikelhowe, as the twelfth part of a knight’s fee, worth 40s. per ann. John de Belaaqua held three carucates of land in Greenhamerton, one carucate of land in Quixley, one carucate of land in Usburn, two caru- cates of land in Allerton, one carucate of land in Hoperton, one carucate of land in Clareton, and two carucates of land in Welenenton, as the sixteenth part of a knight’s fee, worth 22/7. per ann. William Birnell held four carucates of land in Brunton, as two-and-a-half parts of a knight’s fee, worth 87. John de Elton held one carucate and a half of land in South Helyn, as the sixtieth part of a knight’s fee, worth 60s. perann. Michael de Barton held one carucate of land in Barton, as the thirtieth part of a knight’s fee, worth 60s. per annum. Juliana de Besingley held half a carucate of land in Holme, as the fortieth part of a knight’s fee, worth 40s. per ann. John de Nyvyle held sixteen carucates of land in Slingsby, as one knight’s fee, worth 16/. per ann. Johanna Wake held five carucates in Slingsby, as the fifth part of a knight’s fee, worth 10/. per ann. Ernulphus de Percey held three carucates of land in Fryton, as the mediety of one knight’s fee, worth 6/7. per ann. Matthew de Loveyn held two carucates and six oxgangs of land in Fryton, as the mediety of one knight’s fee, worth 6/. per ann. The same Matthew held two carucates of land in Holthorp, as the four- teenth part of one knight’s fee, worth 4s. per ann. John de Elton held two carucates of land in Gillenge, as the tenth part of a knight’s fee, worth 40s. per ann. Walter Barri held one carucate of land in Gillenge, as the twentieth part of a knight’s fee, worth 2ls. per ann. John de Wyvyle held three carucates of land in Colton in Ridale, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth 21s. per ann. Johanna Wake held six carucates of land in Calveton, as the mediety of one knight’s fee, worth 12/7. per ann. Walter de Taye held one carucate of land in Stayngreve, as the sixth part of a knight’s fee, worth 40s. per ann. Johanna Wake held four carucates of land in Moscotes, as the third part of a knight’s fee, worth 67. per ann. Miles de Stapleton and Agnes de Bulford held four carucates of land in Wymbleton, as the half of a knight’s fee, worth 40s. perann. Johanna Wake held in the villas of Kirkeby Moorshend, Gillingemore, and Fadmore, ten knights’ fees, worth 100/. per ann. Robert le Constable held two carucates of land in Betterwick, as the tenth part of one knight’s fee, worth 49s. per ann. Richard Malebisse held the villas of Scakeleton, Dale, and Halmebye, as one knight’s fee, worth 6/. per ann. John de Bela aqua held the manor of Thorpe Arche with the vill. of Walton, as one knight’s fee, worth 201. per ann. Ranul- phus de Albo Monasterio held the villas of Whitehale and Esdicke, as half a knight’s fee, worth xiij/. vjs. viijd. per ann. John son of Alan de Ee ee ee SS 362 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Walkingham and John de Grameri held the vill. of Bickerton, as half a knight’s fee, worth 107. per ann. Richard de Wayleys held a mediety of the vill. of Helawe, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth 100s. per ann. William le Vavasoure held a mediety of the vill. of Helawe, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth 100s. per ann. In witness of the truth of the above inquisition, the seals of the parties are appended. The value of the aforesaid fees is ccciz. xxd. 4 : By inquisition post mortem held in Threske, the ninth day after the feast of St. Barnabas, in the 29th of Edward I., A.D. 1300, on the oaths of Roger Rabbott, William Talenacre, William Kok, Ralph Kirke- ton, William de Sutton, William de Seefield, Roger de Stapleton, Wil- liam Le Hunt, Ralph Grave, Richard de Kilborne, William Le currier, and Robert Yoll, who say that Symond de Stotevyle held of Roger de Mowbray three carucates of land in Langethorpe, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth cs. per ann. John Perche held three carucates of land in Hundesburton, as the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth cs. per ann. Radus de Nevyle held six carucates of land in Kepwick, as half a knight’s fee, worth x/i. per ann. John de Ruddeston held six carucates of land in Hayton, as half a knight’s fee, worth x/i. per ann. Thomas the heir of Michael Grendale held five carucates of land in Garton sup, Waldes, as half a knight’s fee, worth x/. per ann. John de Euyle held the manors of Kilburne, Thornton-super-le-Hill, and Alingsleth, as two and a half knight’s fees, worth ldi. per ann. William de Busci held the manor of Thirkleby and villages of Osgateby and Aekon, as one knight’s fee, worth xxii. per ann. Thomas de la Riverie held the manor of Brandsby and the villages of Steresby and Brafferton, as one knight’s fee, worth xxJi. per ann. Brian son of Alan held a mediety of the vill. of Baynton, as the half of one knight’s fee, worth xii. per ann. Walter de Carleton held three carucates of land in Carleton and Islebeck, as one three carucates of land in Hoton, as the fourth des of a knight’s fee, worth iiij/i. per ann. William de Norton held one carucate of land in . Carlton, as the twelfth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. John Talenacre held two oxgangs of land in Tresk, as the sixty-fourth part ofa knight’s fee, worth xiijs. ilijd. per ann. a one de Blayby held the manor William Le Grey held the manor of Sandhoton, as ; the half of. a knight’s s fee, worth x/i. William de Vescy de Kildare held the manor of Bromp- ton, as one knight’s fee, worth xx/i. per ann. The same William held the villas. of Soureby and Brakenbero, as one and a half knight’s fees, worth xxxli. per ann. The same William held the villas of Lameton and Win- teringham, as two knights’ fees, worth xj/i. per ann. The same William Pe > eee APPENDIX. | 363 held the villas of Southcaveesset and Swanysland, as three knights’ fees, worth Ix/i. per ann. The same William held the manor of Newsom on Spaldingmore, as one knight’s fee, worth xxii. per ann. The same William held the manor of Malton, as two knights’ fees, worth xlii. per ann. The total value of all the aforesaid knights’ fees is ccclxxiijli. They also say that Roger de Mowbray, at the time of his decease, was possessed of ho church livings. In witness of this thing, the seals of the said jurors are appended. | NO. II. Of the extent and value of the Yorkshire estates, thus restored to the rightful heir, we are enabled to give the following ample account from a record preserved in the Tower of London. By Inquisition held in Threske, the ninth day after the feast of the An- nunciation of the Blessed Virgin, in the first of Edward ITI., A.D. 1326, in obedience tothe king’s letters, before Symon de Grimesby on the oaths of William de Aldfield, William Russell, William de Somminge, Thomas de Winksley, William Russell, Junr., John de Cokewald, Peter Copgrave, Richard son of John, William son of Godfrey, John Ward, Richard Sherrow, and Richard Masham, Junr., who say that the late John de Mowbray at the time of his death was possessed of the underwritten fees. The fees that belonged to the Manor of Threske. Thomas le Wake held in the manor of Kirkebye Morshend, Cropton, and other places in the county of York, seven knights’ fees and a half, worth cmc. per ann. Gilbert de Alton held in Welthonie, Sutton and other places, one knight’s fee, worth x/i. per ann. The same Gilbert held of the heirs of Vescy in Brompton ........ and Winteringham and other places, twelve fees and a half, worth cme. per ann. Radulphus de Nevill held in Kepwick and other places, half a knight’s fee, worth lxs. per ann. Ancherus son of Henry, held in Thorpe Arche, and other places, three knights’ fees and a half, worth xlme. per ann. Nycholus de Stapleton held in Thorpe Arche, Tokwith, Merston and other places, three knights’ fees and a half, worth xlme. per ann. Radus de Albo Monasterio, held in Wighall and Esdike, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth lme. per ann: Richard Waleys held in Helawe and Folifait, three-fourths of a knight’s fee, worth cs. per ann. Robert de Eynill held in Kilburn, Thornton-super Monte and other places, three knights’ fees and a half, worth xlmc. per ann. William de Wyvill heldin Slingsby, = na ete te A TET AE Sy NY (SNES © se ow wenn ee rere: cincinnati . a —on oa = aie hepa ermal pollen 364 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Colton, Sledmare and other places, three knights’ fees, worth xlme per ann. William Latymer held in Scameston, Braunyton and other places, six carucates of land, where twenty carucates make a knight’s fee, worth Ixs. per ann. William de Malebays held in Skaleton, Halmebye and other places, one knight’s fee, worth xme. per ann... ...... and in other places, one knight’s fee, worth xii. per ann. Thomas de Sheffield held in Bainton, half a knight’s fee, worth xmec. per ann. John Miniot held in Charleton, Hyton, and Islebeck, the third part of a knight’s fee, worth lxs per ann. John de Weaxhand held in Threske, one carucate of land, where sixteen carucates make a fee, worth xxs. perann. John de Wauton held in Fryton and Helthorp, three parts of one fee, worth cs. per ann. The same John held in Thurkleby and Osgateby, one knight’s fee, worth cs. per ann. William de Ros held in Holme, the eighth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. The Prior of Newburgh held in Ulneston, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. per ann. Henry de Percye held in Arlethorpe, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. John de Walkingham held in Bikerton, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, ‘worth xxs. per ann. John de Colevill held in Cokewald, half a knight’s fee, worth ls. per ann. Thomas de Colevill held in Oversley, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. per ann. Thomas de Elton held in Gillingholme and Kirkebye-subtus-Knoll, one knight’s fee, worth cs. per ann. Johu Moryn held in Hundeburton, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. perann. Huco Castelyon held in Carleton, four ox- gangs of land, where sixteen carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. John de Rudston held in Hayton, six carucates of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xxxs. per ann. William de Bessingbye held in Hovingham, ten oxgangs of land, where twelve caru- cates make a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. John de Rellington held in Threske, two oxgangs of land, where sixteen carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xiijs. iiijd. per ann. John Rabott held in Hovingham, one oxgang of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xld. per ann. William Plane held in Norton, six oxgangs of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. Michael de Flaxton held in Sandhoton, one carucate, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. John de Breton held in Mildeley, one carucate of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xs. per ann. The Abbot de Rupa held one knight’s fee in Armsthorpe, worth xii. per ann. Thomas de Greenedale held in Garton, six carucates of land, where twelve make a knight’s fee, worth xxs. per ann. The Knights’ fees belonging to the Manor of Kirkebye Malafort. John de Wanton held the manor of Masham, as one knight’s fee, worth cs. per ann. The Abbot of Fountains held in Slenningforth, Grantley APPENDIX. 365 and other places, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. per ann. John de Walkingham held in Braithweit, one carucate of land where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xs. per ann. John G’ras held in Grantley and other places, half a carucate of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth xs. per ann. Roger de Nonewick held half a carucate of land in Ketsemore, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth vme. per ann. Dns. Andreas de Merkenfield held in Winkesley, half a carucate of land, worth vmc. per ann. William de Aldfield held in Aldfield and other places, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. per ann. Thomas de Boltoft held in Azerley, the twentieth part of a knight’s fee, worth vs. per ann. William Russell held in Azerley, half a carucate of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth vs. perann. John de Wareyne held in Stodley Roger, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. per ann. Peter de Shypton held in Wynkesley, half a carucate of land, where twelve carucates make a knight’s fee, worth vs. per ann. John de Cokewald held in Azerley, two oxgangs of land, worth xld. per ann. Nicholus Lamberd held three acres of land, worth Ixxxd. per ann. Richard de Faurner held in Riggeton, the fourth part of a knight’s fee, worth xxvs. per ann. Richard le Gray, held in Landforth of the aforesaid John de Mowbray, one knight’s fee, worth xx/i. per ann, NO. III. KTIRBEKNOWLE. The manor or lordshipp of Kirbeknowle, with all the members thereto. To thys manor thaire is belonginge an Mancion house of a great hight and length pasying beautiful of itselfe and faire of prospecte. Wharto belonges one goodlye haulle, great chaulmer, parler, and bed chaulmer, with a noumber of other pleasaunt loogyng® and chambrg®. One studie, Chapell and amories, Gallerie, Kytchinge, Butterie, Seller, Pantre, Wyne Seller, porterluge, Bakehouse, Brewhouse, and Larder in propor- tion, quadrand, covered with leade, and well glasyned. Begune by the forsaid Sir John Constable, knight. Courte Lette. To the same manor belonges an Courte Leite cum visu franc pleg. whareunto belong all regalites, worthe by yeare iijs. iiijd. Courte Baron. To the same manor thayre belonges an Court Baron yearlye for dette betwene parties worthe ijs. vjd. ——e—EeEeEeEeE——————————————— ae eee tae Spr SS sss sh SS SS EE TT 366 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. "The Parke. To thys manor appertayneth an Parke wharin ys great stoore of ffallow deere and woodd of all sorte Oke, Byrke, and Aler, whiche contaynes vj ° xlv acres one half and a perche of marvellus pleasande medowe and pasture, every acre well worth iijs. iiijd. in all by yeare after the same rate cvijii. xs. whareof thaire ys in the lorde’s owne occupacion theise parcelles followinge vizt the Grene close, Upsall fflatte, and an little ture called the Storth at xliijs. iijd. Also certayne closes laite pcell of Toddes ffermolde called Braunte Triales with the West ffelde raited by yeare at viij/i. Aiso an little close called Braunt trilay sumetyme percell of the parsonage rated at xiijs. ilijd. Oone grounde or close calied the Stainhed by yeare xxxs. One close called the Reilybodome of pasture by yeare Ane pasture called Stonkelay by year Ixvjs. viijd. One percell of grounde cald the Birkebank rated at xxvjs. viijd. One grounde called the Knowle by yeare xs. Ane parcell of grounde called the Hagge by yeare vjs. viiljd. Anda p’cell of grounde called the Knowle leis sumtyme in the parsons oune hande or occupation and parcel of the parsonage worth by yeare xxxs. in all after the rent yt ys nowe paid yearly xxvjli. xs. Edmunde Danbie haith in his occupacion one parcell of the same Parke called the Steneyfeldes and paeth by yeare at the ffeaste of Saincte Michaell onlie and oure Ladie day in Lente by equall portions iiijiz. xlijs. iiijd. Also ane p’cell of grounde calde Bauntry ley painge at the said ffeast xlvjs. viijd. And ane parcell of grounde called the South ffeilde painge thairfo at the same ffest by even portions lxvjs. viijd. in all by yeare x/i. vjs. viljd. Robert Yorke holdes parcell of the same parke called the Summer close, the midle close, the high Batterie cloose, the lawe Battrie close painge at the forsaid feastes by even portions in the yeare vj/z. iijs. vjd. Anthone Abbott holdes parcell of the same parke which is callid most commonlye Hotchgarth, Painge at the forsaid ffeastes vs. John Todde holdes one Tennement thaire with the purtenannce par- ; cell of the same Parke, called the Orchett, the high Flake, Clay hill, Tutehill, Chalk close, Colmen close, Hey close, and Harruske, painge thairfor at the forsaid ffeas by even portions viijii. xs. Mychaell Yorke holdes certayne grounde of the same Parke called the Orchetts, Brodefeilde, they Ley ffeilde, Calfe close, and the ffarre feilde painge thairefor at the forsaid ffeastes by even portions ixdi. Myles Almone holds certayne landes thaire parcell of the same Parke, the Southe ffelde and a close named Cocknynge paing at the forsaid ffeastes by even portions viz. SE eee ee Se nr re AS Se NE A NN NS SS : APPENDIX. 367 _ Wyllm Todde holdes certayne landes thaire parcell of the said Parke, called moste commonlye the Wandelies, Lickmanbutt, or the Claihill Calfe Closse, Southe feildes, and the Wood close painge as before xjii. xilijs. vd. argaret Dente holdes parcell of the same Parke called the Hagge leis and paieth at the forsaid fieastes xls. George Spetche holdes one parcell of the same Parke wiche is moste commonlie called the Butterie close painge as above xvs. Betteres Wairde holds one parcell of grounde called the Carre close parcell of the same Parke painge at the forsaid feasts xliijs. iiijd. Christoffer Thorpe holdes one parcell of the fforsaid Parke laite in the lorde’s owen occupacion called the Cockepool and the South ffeild painge The totall sume of all the fforsaid Parke as well of that in the Lordes hande as the Tennaunt, paid {ii Vjii. Vijs. xjd. at this date yS 2... ccee cece cece cece ccceeces Mille.* To thys manor belonges ane warter mille in the tenure or occutyen of one Michael Yorke painge at Penthicoste and Saincte Martyne by even portions thairfor xls. The total sume of the forsaide Mannor with the courte leete and Baron ys by yeere............ The donation of the Parsonage of Kyrbeknoole and Bagbie. Unto this manor there belongeth the donation of the parsonage of Kirbeknoole and Bagbie tyme oute of mynde. Wharto belong® ane fete house with haulle, chalmer, parler, butterie, and other houses: an orchet and two gardinges in metlie reperatianes standinge nere the paile of the Parke now in thuse of George Welles,t parson thaire. Glebe. To this parsonage belongeth an Gleebe, viz. certen lands and closes called the Southe fielde worth by yeare liijs. iiijd. Anderson’s Close by yeare xxxs. Lugdaite close by yeare xxiiijs. iiijd. Bastikelde by yeare xxs. Knoole leises by yeare xxxs. Braunte Trite by yeare xiijs. iiijd. which twoo groundes are in occupacion of Sir John Constable and charged before in the title of the Parke, and the Crofte by yeare xs. in the said parson’s occupacion, in all by the yeare ix/z. } xxi xlijs. ixd. * This mill was standing in 1590; it was at length burned down by accident, and never rebuilt. The site can yet easily be traced in the grass field near the Church, by the mound of the dam, and hollow of the mill race. + George Welles was rector of Kirkby Knowle from 1575 to 1615. e. — ce I A en Sa ee a ~ 368 THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. Tharske and Carleton. To the Parsonage belonges ane litle garth in the toune of Thirske worth hy yeare xxs. and a parcel of grounde called Douthewell fflatt wharin he haith the gaite or fedinge of x gaites or beastes everie gaite rated at ilijs. on beast in all xls. and when the ...... occupies the same in cornne than the parson haith the tithe thairof worthe.......... in all ............ and the tithe corne of iij oxgaites of ane farmolde in Chatttinh of arabile land in the occupace of one .. 2.2... seeeee worthe by year vs. in all, Haye. Unto the same parsonage thaire belong" the tithe haye of the Toune of Kirbeknoole worth by yeare gigiry viijd. and the tithe haye of Bag- aece ae & Corne. To the same parsonage belongeth the tithe corne of Bagbie worth by yeare x/i. and likewise the tithe corne of Ysbie or Islebe the tithe have lentronbooke lame calfe et ug by yeare xls, in all xijlz. Lentronbooke. Thare is yearlie ane with ane oter in Kirbeknoole of houslers lx every one at, ijd. in all xs. and the lente booke worthe xxs. in all xxxs. and houslen in Bagbie an c at ijd. in all xvjs. viijd. and the lent booke thaire is worth xxxs. in all xlvjs. viijd. so by yeare Ixxvjs. viijd. Calves §& Lambes. Thayre is yearlie vj calves in Kirbeknoole everie calve vs. in all xvs. and viij lambes everie lambe worth xxd. in all xiijs. iiijd. by yeare Xxviijs. ilijd, At Bagbie iij calves everie calve vs. in all xvs. and vj lambes. everie lambe worth xxd. in all xiijs. iiijd. for the yeare xxviijs. iiijd. in all lvjs. viijd. Pigges & Geese. Thaire ys off hennes in Kirbixnoole xv hennes worth vs. .......+e. vj worthe ijs. and Geese v, worth is. vjd. in all ixs. .......... in the towne of Bagbie of hennes xxx worth xs. pigges vj. worth ijs. and Geese fyve worth ijs. vjd. in all xiijs. vjd. by yeare xxijs. vjd. Wolle, Bees & Flaze. To the same parsonage belongs the tithe wolle of Kirbeknoole viz. one . year with ane other iiij stones every stone worthe vs. in all xxs. And yearlie Bagbie iiij stoone worthe vs. a stone xxs. in all xls. The totall sume of all the forsaid Parsonage Llebeck baie Xxxixli. vs, viljd. and Bagbie with Glybe therto belonginge ........ SS aa “3 z a ey a RE RS TT | APPENDIX. 369 Kirbeknoole Toune. Edward Danbie holdes one Tennement thaire wharto belonges ane Orchett Garth and ane close called the North ffeilde, which is of landes arable meadowe and pasture painge at Penticost and Sainte Martye y® bishopp by even portions Ixxviijs. liijd. | Robert Yorke holds one tenement thair wharto belonges j orchette, j Garthe and ij closes called the hawlle garthe and the North ffeilde painge at the forsaid ffestes by even portions xxxijs. ijd. Antonye Abbott holds one tennement thaire wharto belonges ij garthes and ane close called Gultay with an other parcel of ground named the Hagge painge at the forsaid ffeast lviijs. iiijd. Mychaell Yoorke holdes on tennement thaire called the Helme of iiij acres of pasture painge at the said ffeast xxs. Wylyam Smyth holdes one tennement with the purtenaunces wharto belong® viij acres of lande percell of the common measured by itselfe as appers after. One Orchett, ane Alergarth, and a Cunye garthe painge at the forsaid ffeast xls. Richard Riley houldes one Tennemente thaire wharto belonges ij Orchett and ij Garthes painge at the same ffeast® xxs. Wylyam Todde holdes one Tennement thair called the Haulle flatte and ij garthes painge at the same ffeast® cs. Margaret Dent houldes one Tennement thaire j close calde the Northe feelde & y® utter Allergarthe at the same ffeast ls. George Spetche holdes one Tennement thaire wharto belongs ij yards and ane orchett painge at the forsaid ffeast xxxs. Betteres Wairde holdes one Tennement thaire wharto belonges j garthe and j orchett painge at the same feast ls. The totall sume off the toune of Kirbeknoole .... = xxiijli. xviijs. The totall sume of all the forsaid Manor off Kirbe- knoole with all the purtynaunce as the rent y* now y* The totall sume of all the acres of lande arable, | meadow, pasture, common of pasture, and the moor ys. mije. liiij. acres and halfe, and v. dais warke whiche coms unto, rated at iijs. an acre one withe ane other after the newe assize, the common of IRE AG IVES AM: BOTES. yo aidi civic avs ow a's one Thaire is yearlie to be plesed unto Michell Forks duringe pleasoure, as recompence of his ffee for keeping of the Parke thaire, the rent of the waiter mille—by yeare xls. And thaire y*® ane close in his occupacion called the Howme, by yeare xxs., in all Ixs. Thaire y® to be allowed also to Christoffer Thorpe for his ffee for cxjlz, xijs. vijd. P cilijax. viijli. ijs. _keepinge of the Parke duryinge pleasure, to be paid at Whitsontyde and Martynmas, by even portions iiij/z. a en A A St et tit entre enters eetrit i, \ 370— THE VALE OF MOWBRAY. ° Thaire is to be allowed for certeyne grassing and seperred closes, now © occupied in Sir John’s owen occupation parcell of the forsaid Parke, of the yearlie valewe of xxxli. Sm And so remaynes cleere iijvz. xixli. xijs. viijd. Te xxxijli. The trew bounder of all the forsaid Lordeshippe of Kirbeknowle as ffollowes :— | * Begynninge at the duble dike Nuke of the paile of the newe improve- mente or of Kyrbeknoole or Upsaull, standinge partelye of the stand by: Southe stright doune the hill followinge an Warter fall or sike till it turne unto Knaton edge by ane broode buddie Thorne. Then turning at Naton Se ee ee ee Re hedge with quickwood of ane longe tyme sett Esterlye ...... by Southe — till it cum unto the Ridding dike nuke, and so from the Riddynge Dike Nuke ffollowinge the same hedge sett with Oller or saugh on the Southest that partes Kirbeknowle ffeilde and the Riddinge till i cum to the Southest end thairof called the ffarre ende of the Ingdell. Then, from the ffare ende of the Ingdell right Northest till it cume unto an place or hill syde whare thaire y® yeett an olde Ooke yate to be kende betweene © the Ridding® Geates. And so frome the same rute or olde stumpe upon the North Est partelye and by north to one hill or Pike called Seato Pike Then from the saide Pike or hill full Southe unto an olde marche stoon. lyenge on the Haggid Myres. And so southe unto ane oder marche stone leninge on the West in Gurtu ffelde heede. Then from that marche stone South, and by West standing full Southe on the North side of the Birkehill. And so from thens unto Bowdebie heddge made of Woodd or Rise whare sume tyme thaire stodde ane marche stoone & taken up at the hedge-makinge and: laid in the same laitely mad. And so turnynge downe the same heddge Southe and by West partely till he cum to the Storthnuke whaire it festens upon the paile.. Then from thende of the forsaid Dike turninge withe the Paile Southe unto Bowdebie yaet. And so frome the yeat still following the Paile Southe till y* cume to mounte hodome nuke. Then frome thens South and by West unto the Harmet- greene-Nuke standinge on the West. And so to Geldinge cloose nuke upon the Northe. And so frome thens Nort and by Est unto the newe gaite standinge in Wolmoore on ‘the Duble Dike. And then followinge the Paile West and be Northe till yt cum to the cornoure of the Dowble Dike whare this bounder first beganne. ; THE END. A. JOHNSON AND CO., PRINTERS, RIPON. anni i te a t hal Waa ah gen vas Lo 1 c ° Sa AN MTN TNT 0 022 122 860 1