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Issued December 21, 1911.

5 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE,

BUREAU OF ANIMAL. INDUSTRY,—BULLETIN 146.

~ A. D. MELVIN, Cuier-or Bureau.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE:

DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES.

BY

e

C.F. DOANE,” Mi:s.,

Assistant Dairyman, Dairy Division,

AND

H.W. LAWSON, M. -S.;-M. D.,

Office of Experiment Stations, Department of Agriculture.

[A revision of Bureau of Animal Industry Bulletin 105.]

WASHINGTON;
GOVERNMENT. PRINTING. OFFICE.
1911.

*

fy
Issued December 21, 1911.

US See bok MENT OF AGRICULTURE, ; ,.,

i i. ,
BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.—BULLETIN 146. ae

A. D. MELVIN, Cuier of Bureau,

VARIETIES OF CHEESE:

DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. Le

BY

ch FY DOANE, M.’S:,

* AM - - * .
Assistant Dairyman, Dairy Division,

AND

H.W. LAWSON, M. S., M. D.,
:
Office of Experiment Stations, Department of Agriculture.

[A revision of Bureau of Animal Industry Bulletin 105.]

WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE,
1911,

(e
\ roms ,VN

THE BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.

Chief: A. D. MELVIN.

Assistant Chief: A. M. FARRINGTON.

Chicf Clerk: CHARLES C. CARROLL.

Animal Husbandry Division: GrorGE M. RoMMEL, chief.

Biochemic Division: M. Dorset, chief.

Dairy Division: B. H. Rawt, chief.

Inspection Division: Rice P. Steppom, chief; R. A. RaMsAy, Morris WooDEN,
and ALBERT E. BEHNKE, associate chiefs.

Pathological Division: JoHN R. MouLeER, chief.

Quarantine Division: RicHarpD W. HickMaAN, chief.

Zoological Division: B. H. Ransom, chief.

Experiment Station: BE. C. SCHROEDER, superintendent.

Editor: JAMES M. PICKENS.

DAIRY DIVISION.
B. H. Rawt, Chief.

HetMer RaBixp, in charge of Dairy Farming Investigations.

S. CG. THomerson, in charge of Dairy Manufacturing Investigations.
L. A.’ Rogers, in charge of Research Laboratories.

GrorcE M. WHITAKER, in charge of Market Milk Investigations.
Rosert McApaM, in charge of Renovated Butter Inspection.

2

et

LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL.

U. S. DeparTMENT or AGRICULTURE,
Bureau or Anrmau Inpustry,
Washington, D. C., August 31, 1911.

Str: In 1908 there was published as Bulletin 105 of this bureau a
paper entitled “ Varieties of Cheese: Descriptions and Analyses,” by
Mr. C. F. Doane, of the dairy division of this bureau, and Dr. H. W.
Lawson, of the Office of Experiment Stations of this department.
As the supply of that bulletin is exhausted, and as it has been found
desirable to make a few additions and some slight revisions, I have
the honor to transmit herewith the copy for a revised edition and to
recommend that it be issued as a new bulletin. A few new varieties
have been added and certain descriptions in the first edition have
been revised to conform to present usage.

As was stated in transmitting the original manuscript, the work is
a compilation of descriptions and analyses of all the varieties of do-
mestic and foreign cheese about which it has been possible to obtain
such information in the literature bearing upon the subject. In a
number of cases only meager details could be secured, and owing to
the size of the work the descriptions are necessarily of a very con-
densed nature.

Respectfully, A. D. Metvin,
Chief of Bureau.
Hon. James WILSON,
Secretary of Agriculture.

a)

CONTENTS.

Introduction

Descriptions of varieties of cheese
Analyses oficheese 2-22. tsi) eis net ee a ae es ee ee

Sources of analytical data

VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES.

INTRODUCTION.

The amount of cheese imported into the United States is increas-
ing rapidly. During the six years from 1900 to 1905, inclusive, the
value of the imports increased from $1,946,033 to $3,875,161. Italy
and Switzerland supplied the bulk of this cheese, most of the re-
mainder coming from France and Holland. The best known of the
varieties of cheese imported were the Parmesan and Gorgonzola
from Italy, the Emmental from Switzerland, the Roquefort, Camem-
bert and Brie from France, and the Edam from Holland. The
growing demand for cheese is not, however, confined to these well-
known varieties, much interest being manifested in many kinds as
yet of very little commercial importance but highly esteemed in the
localities where produced.

Attempts have long been made in this country to imitate some of
the European varieties, and in some instances the results have been
decidedly successful. The manufacture of Swiss, or Emmental, and
of Limburg types has become well established. The investigations
conducted at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station in Con-
necticut have shown that cheese of the Camembert type, equal in
every way to the imported article, may be produced in the United
States. This department is cooperating in investigations of this
kind, and recently results have been obtained which make it prac-
tically certain that a cheese of the nature of Roquefort or Stilton
can likewise be produced in this country.

Information concerning the manufacture and composition of the
numerous varieties of cheese is not very accessible to English readers
and the apparent need of some work of reference, in connection at
least with the importation and home production of cheese, has there-
fore led to the preparation of the descriptive notes and the compila-
tion of the analytical data contained in this bulletin.

The descriptions are for the most part based upon data contained
in treatises on dairying and in articles in foreign periodicals. While
in many instances they are very incomplete and possibly at times
inaccurate, they nevertheless contain in condensed form practically

5

6 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

all the important information that it has been possible to secure in
an extended search through the literature relating in any way to
the subject. Owing to the large number of publications consulted,
it has seemed impracticable to give references to the descriptive
matter.

The analyses have been compiled in most instances from the origi-
nal publications. In all cases, however, the sources of the data have
been given in the list of references which follows the table of an-
alyses. No effort has been made to collect the numerous analyses of
filled cheese, and in the case of American Cheddar cheese only a part
of the available data has been included in the compilation.

DESCRIPTIONS OF VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

ABERTAM.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from sheep’s milk in the region of Carlsbad.
Bohemia.
ALEMTEJO.

This name is applied to rather soft cheeses made in the Province of Alemtejo,
Portugal. They are cylindrical in shape and are made in three sizes. averaging
in weight about 2 ounces, 1 pound, and 4 pounds, respectively. They are made
for the most part from the milk of sheep, though goat’s milk is often added,
especially for the smaller sizes. The milk is warmed and curdled usually with
an extract prepared from the flowers of a kind of thistle. The cheeses are
ripened for several weeks.

ALPIN.

This is a kind of Mont d’Or cheese made in the Alpine regions of France. It
is also known as Clérimbert. The milk is coagulated with rennet at SO° F. in
2 hours. The curd is dipped into molds 8 to 4 inches in diameter and 24 inches
in height. The cheese is allowed to drain and is turned several times during
one day, after which it is salted and ripened for 8 to 15 days.

ALTENBURG.

This is a goat’s-milk cheese made in Germany, where it is known as Alten-
burger Ziegenkiise. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter, 1 to 2 inches in thickness,
and weighs about 2 pounds.

AMBERT.

This cheese, known as Fourme d’Ambert, is a cylindrical-shaped imitation
Roquefort cheese made from cow’s milk. It is said to differ from other forms
of blue or imitation Roquefort cheese made in the southeastern part of France
in that the salt is mixed with the curd rather than rubbed on the surface of the
cheese.

ANCIEN IMPERIAL.

The curd is prepared in the same manner for this cheese as for Neufchitel.
The cheese is about 2 inches square and one-half inch thick. It is also known
as Petit Carré and when ripened as Carré Affiné. The cheese is sold and con-
sumed both while fresh and after ripening. The ripening process is not essen-
tially different from that of Neufchatel.

APPENZELL.

This cheese, which is very similar to Emmental, is made in the Canton of
Appenzell, Switzerland, and also in Bavaria and Baden. It is usually made of

skim milk, but sometimes of whole milk. z

8 VARIETIES. OF CHEESE.

BACKSTEIN.

Backstein, meaning brick, is so called from its shape, but it is not identical
with the Brick cheese made in the United States. The process of manufacture
is Similar to that of Limburg.

BANBURY.

This was a soft, rich cheese, very popular in England in the early part of the
nineteenth century. It was a cylindrical cheese about 1 inch thick.

BARBEREY.

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its name
from the village of Barberey, near Troyes, France. It is also commonly
known as Fromage de Troyes. The milk while still fresh and warm is coagu-
lated with rennet, the time allowed being usually about 4 hours. The uncut
curd is put into a wooden mold having a perforated bottom. After draining
for 3 hours the cheese is turned into an earthenware mold, the wooden one
being removed after 24 hours. The cheeses are salted, dried in a well-venti-
lated room, and ripened for about 3 weeks, usually in a subterranean curing
room. In summer the cheese is often sold without ripening. A cheese is
5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1} inches in thickness.

BATTLEMAT.

This is an Emmental cheese made in the Canton of Tessin, Switzerland, in
the western part of Austria, and in the northern part of Italy. It is recom-
mended for localities where a great quantity of milk can not be obtained.
The cheese is circular in form, about 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches high,
and weighs from 40 to 80 pounds. It is cooked at a slightly lower temperature
than the Emmental and is a little softer when ripened. It ripens more rapidly
than the Emmental, being ready for market in about 4 months.

BAUDEN.

Baudenkiise is a sour-milk cheese made in the herders’ huts in the mountains
between Bohemia and Silesia in essentially the same manner as Harzkiise.
It is made up in two forms, one conical with a diameter and a height of 34
inches, and the other cylindrical, with a diameter of 5 inches and a height of
24 inches. It is also known locally as Koppenkiise.

BELGIAN COOKED.

The milk which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously is skimmed and
the curd heated to 135° to 140° F. and then placed in a cloth and allowed to
drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed to undergo ~
fermentation, which takes ordinarily from 10 to 14 days in winter and 6 to 8
days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are
added and the mixture is heated gently and stirred until homogeneous, when
it is put into molds and allowed to ripen for 8 days longer. <A cheese ordinarily
weighs about 34 pounds. It is not essentially different from other forms of

cooked cheese.
BELLELAY.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole milk and sometimes called
Téte de Moine, and Monk’s Head. This cheese originated with the monks of
the Canton of Bern, Switzerland, in the fifteenth century, and is made ex-
clusively in that locality at the present time.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 9

The sweet milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in
20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut comparatively fine and is stirred while being
heated slowly to a temperature of 110°. It is cooked much firmer than
Limburg and not so firm as Emmental.

When cooked the curd is dipped into wooden hoops lined with cloth. The
cheeses are pressed in rotation for a few minutes at a time, one press being
used for a number of cheeses. After pressing, the cheeses are wrapped in bark
for a couple of weeks, or until they are firm enough to require no support.
They are cured in a moist cellar at a comparatively low temperature, as it is
not desired to have eyes develop. The cheese when ready for market has a
diameter of 7 inches and weighs from 9 to 15 pounds. It ripens in about 12
months and will keep for 3 or 4 years. It has a soft, buttery consistency and
can be spread on bread for eating.

BERGQUARA.

This is a Swedish cheese resembling Gouda. It was known in Sweden in the

eighteenth century.
BLEU.

The names Paté Bleu and Fromage Bleu are applied to several kinds of hard
rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in imitation of Roquefort cheese in the
southeastern part of France. Owing to the mottled, marbled, or veined appear-
ance they are also designated Fromage Persillé. Among these are Gex, Sas-
senage, and Septmoncel. This name is also applied locally to several more or
less distinct kinds made in the regions of the Auvergne and Aubrac Mountains
_and designated Bleu d’Auvergne, Cantal, Guiole or Laguiole, and St. Flour.
Other cheeses of this order mentioned as made in France are Queyras, Cham-
poléon, Sarraz, and Journiac.

BOUDANNE.

This is a French cheese made from cow’s milk. The milk, either whole or
skimmed, is heated to about 85° F., sufficient rennet is added to secure coagula-
tion in 1 hour, and the curd is cut to the size of peas, stirred, and heated to
100° or above. After standing for 10 to 15 minutes the curd is pressed by hand
and put into molds 8 inches in diameter and 8 inches in height. The cheeses
are drained, turned frequently, salted, and ripened for 2 to 3 months.

BOX (FIRM).

This cheese, known in different localities where made as Hohenburg, Mondsee,
and Weihenstephan, is made from whole cow’s milk and is a rather firm rennet
cheese. The flavor is said to be mild, but piquant. The milk is heated to 90°
to 93° F. in a kettle, is colored with saffron, and set with sufficient rennet to
curdle it in 20 to 25 minutes, The curd is cut up as fine as peas and the con-
tents of the kettle are heated very slowly to a temperature of 105°, being stirred
meanwhile. The fire is then removed and the curd allowed to settle for 5 min-
utes, when the whey is dipped off. The curd is then dipped into a cloth and from
this is scooped into hoops. Light pressure is applied and in 15 minutes the
cheese is turned, and the turning is repeated frequently for several hours. The
cheese is kept in a well-ventilated room at 60° for 3 to 5 days, after which it is
taken to the cellar. It is salted by rubbing or sprinkling salt on the surface.
Ripening requires from 2 to 3 months. The cheese weighs from 1 to 4 pounds,
and is undoubtedly similar to the Brick cheese of the United States.

10 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.
BOX (SOFT).

This is a rennet cheese made from partially skimmed cow’s milk and known
locally as Schachtelkiise. It is a rather unimportant variety produced in Wiirt-
temberg in a small locality called Hohenheim, a name which the cheese often
takes.

In making this cheese the skimmed evening’s milk is mixed with the whole
morning’s milk, or a part of the milk is skimmed with a centrifuge and is mixed
with an equal volume of whole milk. The cheese is made in a copper kettle.
The milk is warmed to 110° F., colored with saffron, and rennet added. It is
allowed to stand for one to one and one-half hours before cutting. The curd is
cut into rather coarse particles, after which it is allowed to stand for a few
minutes, when the whey is dipped off, and for every 200 pounds of milk used a
small handful of caraway seed is added. The curd is then dipped into hoops 64
inches in height and the same in diameter. It remains in these hoops for 10
hours and is frequently turned, after which it is transferred to a wooden hoop
only one-half as high, where it remains for 12 hours. The cheese is then .
sprinkled with salt and put in the ripening cellar, where it remains about 3
months.

A soft rennet cheese known as Fromage de Boite is made in the mountains of
Doubs, France, in the fall. It resembles Pont l’Eyéque.

BRA.

This cheese is made by nomads in the region of Bra in Piedmont, Italy. It is
a hard rennet cheese weighing about 12 pounds. The milk, which is partly
skimmed, is heated to about 90° F., and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate it
in 80 to 40 minutes. The curd is cut to the size of rice grains and the whey
removed after about one-half of an hour. The curd is put into a form about 12
inches in diameter and 3 inches in height and subjected to pressure for 12 to 24
hours. It is salted by immersion in brine and also by sprinkling salt on the
surface. The cheese is then ripened.

BRAND.

This is a German hand cheese weighing about one-third of a pound, made from
sour-milk curd cooked at a little higher temperature than ordinarily practiced.
The curd is salted and allowed to ferment one day. It is then mixed with
butter, pressed into shape and dried, and finally placed in kegs to ripen, during
which process it is moistened occasionally with beer.

BRICK.

The exact derivation of this name is not known. It may have been adopted
because of the shape, or because of the fact that bricks are used almost exclu-
sively for weighting down the press. Brick cheese is a rennet cheese made from
unskimmed cow’s milk, and is purely an American product. In characteristics
it is about halfway between Limburg and Emmental. It has a strong, sweetish
taste, a sort of elastic texture, and many small round eyes or holes. It is made
about 10 by 6 by 38 inches in size. There are many factories making this
product, especially in southern Wisconsin.

Perfectly sweet milk is set in a vat at 86° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate
it in 20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut with Cheddar curd knives, and is then
heated to 110° to 120° and stirred constantly. The cooking is continued until
the curd has become firm enough so that a handful squeezed together will fall

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 11

apart when released. The curd is then dipped into the mold, which is a heavy
rectangular box without a bottom and with slits sawed in the sides to allow
drainage. The mold is set on the draining table, a follower is put on the curd,
and one or two bricks are used on each cheese for pressure. The cheeses are
allowed to remain in the molds for 24 hours, when they are removed, rubbed all
over with salt, and piled three deep. The salting is done each day for 3 days,
after which the cheese is taken to the ripening cellar, which should have a tem-
perature of from 60° to 65° and be comparatively moist. Ripening requires 2
months.

BRICKBAT.

This is a rennet cheese made as early as the eighteenth century in Wiltshire,
England. It is made from fresh milk, to which a small portion of cream has
been added. The milk is set at about 90° F. and allowed to stand 2 hours before
the curd is disturbed. The curd is cut coarse, dipped into wooden forms, and
light pressure applied. The cheese is said to be fit for consumption for one
year after being made.

BRIE.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. The cheese varies in size
and ‘also in quality, depending on whether whole or partly skimmed milk is
used. The method of manufacture closely resembles that of Camembert.

This cheese has been made in France for several centuries. Mention was
made of it as early as 1407. It is made throughout France, but more exten-
sively in the Department of Seine et Marne, in which it doubtless originated.
This department contains Meaux, Coulommiers, and Melun, places noted for
their manufacture of Brie cheese, though often under local names. More or
less successful imitations of this cheese are made in other countries. It was
estimated that 7,000,000 pounds of Brie cheese was sold in Paris during 1900.
The export trade is also very important.

The milk used is usually perfectly fresh. It is not uncommon, however, to
mix the evening’s milk, when kept cool over night, with the morning’s milk.
Some artificial coloring matter is added to the milk, which is then set with
rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. After standing undisturbed for about
2 hours the curd is dipped into forms or hoops, of which there are three sizes
in common use. The largest size is about 15 inches in diameter, the medium
size about 12 inches in diameter, and the smallest size about 6 inches in diam-
eter. These vary in height from 2 to 3 inches. After drainage for 24 hours
without pressure being applied, the hoops are removed and the surface of the
cheese is sprinkled with salt. Charcoal is sometimes mixed with the salt used.
The cheese is then transferred to the first curing room, which is kept dry and
well ventilated. After remaining in this room for about 8 days, the cheese
becomes covered with mold. It is then transferred to the second curing room
or cellar, which is usually very dark, imperfectly ventilated, and has a tem-
perature of about 60° F. The cheese remains here for from 2 to 4 weeks or
until the consistency and odor indicate that it is sufficiently ripened. The red
coloration which the surface of the cheese finally acquires has been attributed
to an organism designated Bacillus firmatatis. The ripening is due to one or
more species of molds which occur on the surface and produce enzyms which in
turn cause a gradual and progressive breaking down of the casein from the
exterior toward the center. The interior of a ripened cheese varies in con-
sistency from waxy to semiliquid and has a very pronounced odor and a sharp
characteristic taste.

12 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

BRINSEN.

This cheese, known locally as Laudoch, Zips, Liptau, Siebenbtirgen, Neusohl,
Altsohl, and Klenez, is made in the Carpathian Mountains of Hungary from
sheep’s milk, or a mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk.

The cheese is made in small lots, only 2 to 4 gallons of milk being used at
one time. This is put into a kettle when fresh and sufficient rennet is added
with the milk at a temperature of from 75° to 85° F. to secure coagulation in
15 minutes. The curd is broken up and the whey dipped and the curd is
placed in a linen sack and allowed to drain for 24 hours. It is then cut into
pieces and placed on a board, where with frequent turnings it is allowed to
remain until it commences to get smeary, which requires about 8 days. The
pieces are then laid one on top of another in a vessel holding from 40 to 60
pounds, where they remain for 24 hours, after which they are removed, the
rind cut away, and the curd or partially cured cheese broken up in another
vessel. After 10 hours salt is stirred in and the curd run through a mill which
cuts it very fine, when it is packed in a tub with beech shavings.

BROCCIO.

This is a sour-milk cheese made from sheep’s milk in Corsica. It is some-
times mixed with sugar and rum and made into small cakes. It is similar to
Ziger.

BURGUNDY.

This cheese, known in France as Fromage de Bourgogne, is described as a
soft, white, loaf-shaped cheese weighing about 4 pounds.

BUTTERMILK.

This cheese, which is made from the curd of buttermilk, is of somewhat finer
grain than skimmed-milk cottage cheese, which it closely resembles. Butter-
milk of 0.5 or 0.6 per cent acidity is run into a steam-heated vat or starter can,
or placed in a pail which can be heated in a tub of hot water. The buttermilk
is stirred and heated to 75° to 78° F., then covered and left for 14 to 2 hours.
The temperature is then raised to 140° F., and in about 1 hour the curd settles
to the bottom. The whey is removed and the curd transferred to a draining
cloth or bag for about 10 hours. It should be stirred occasionally while drain-
ing. When dry the curd is salted, put up in small packages, and wrapped in
parchment paper.

CACIOCAVALLO.

This is a somewhat peculiar kind of cheese made from either whole or partly
skimmed cow’s milk. Various explanations have been made as to the origin of
the name, which means literally horse cheese. One explanation offered is that
the cheese was originally made in the region of Monte Cavallo, and another is
that the imprint of a horse’s head was made in each cheese as the trade-mark
of the original manufacturer. The original home of this cheese was southern
Italy, but it is now made extensively in northern Italy as well. The history
of the cheese dates back several centuries.

The temperature of the coagulation of the milk with rennet varies greatly
but is usually from 90° to 95° F. The time allowed for coagulation is also
variable, being usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut very finely and
sometimes allowed to ferment for 24 hours, when it is heated by means of very

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 13

hot water, or more commonly hot whey, and subsequently worked by hand
until all the whey is expressed and the curd becomes homogenous and capable
of being drawn out into long threads. It is then molded into any desired shape
and salted by immersion in brine for about 2 days. The cheeses are sus-
pended in pairs from the ceiling and lightly smoked. The surface may be
rubbed with olive oil or butter. They are kept in a cool, dry room until sold.
As seen on the market they vary much in size and shape. On an average they
weigh about 3 pounds. The most common shape is that resembling a beet,
a constriction near the top being due to the string which is tied around the
cheese for the purpose of hanging it up. This cheese is sometimes eaten while
comparatively fresh, but is more frequently kept for months and then grated
and used for flavoring soups and as an addition to macaroni and similar foods.
A small quantity is imported into the United States.

CAERPHILLY.

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Wales from unskimmed cow’s milk,
The milk is set very sweet at a temperature of 85° F. with enough rennet to co-
agulate it in 1 hour. The curd is cut in 4-inch cubes and stirred for 1 hour with-
out further heating. It is then put in cloths and subjected to light pressure for
an hour and is again broken up fine and put to press, where it remains, with
daily changing, for 3 days. During this time one-half ounce salt to each pound
of curd is rubbed on the surface. Each cheese weighs about 8 pounds. The
cheese requires about 3 weeks for ripening, at a temperature of 65° to 70°.

CAMBRIDGE.

This is a soft rennet English cheese made from cow’s milk. Milk is set at
90° F. and rennet added. At the end of 1 hour the curd is dipped into molds
without cutting and allowed to stand for 30 hours, when it is ready for eating.

CAMEMBERT.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. <A typical cheese is about
4+ inches in diameter and 1} inches thick and is usually found on the market in
this country wrapped in paper and inclosed in a wooden box of the same shape.
The cheese usually has a rind about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, which
is composed of molds and dried cheese. The interior is yellowish in color and
waxy, creamy, or almost fluid in consistency, depending largely upon the degree
of ripeness.

Camembert cheese is said to have originated in 1791 in the locality from which
it derives its name in the Department of Orne, in the northwestern part of
France. The industry extended soon into Calvados, and these two Departments
are still the principal seat of the industry. Cheese of the same type, however,
is made in other parts of France and also in other countries; among these are
Compiegne, Contentin, Pavillon, Soumaintrain, and Thury-en-Valois. Very suc-
cessful results have been obtained at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tion in Connecticut.

Camembert cheese is made from whole fresh milk or from milk which has
been partly skimmed. The evening’s milk may be skimmed and mixed with the
fresh morning’s milk. The temperature of setting is about 80° to 85° F., and
the quantity of rennet added for this purpose is sufficient to secure the desired
degree of firmness in about 2 hours. The curd is then transferred, usually with
as little breaking up as possible, to perforated tin forms or hoops about 43

14 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

inches in diameter and the same in height. These rest upon rush mats which
permit free drainage. The filling of the forms may be done at two or three
times separated by short intervals allowed for the curd to settle. Each form
holds the equivalent in curd of about 2 quarts of milk. After draining for about
18 hours, and preferably in a room having a uniform temperature of 65° to 70°,
the cheese is turned. This is repeated frequently for about 2 days, when the
cheese is removed from the forms and salted on the outside. Two or three days
later the cheese is transferred to a well-ventilated room, where the ripening
process begins. The cheese remains here for 15 to 20 days, during which time
it is turned very frequently and the surface becomes covered with molds, which
gradually produce a breaking down of the casein. It is then taken to the cur-
ing cellar, where the ripening process is completed in about 3 weeks, when it is
packed and marketed.

CANQUILLOTE.

This is a skim-milk cheese made in the eastern part of France. It is also
known locally as Fromagére and Tempéte. The milk is allowed to coagulate
spontaneously, after which it is heated gently and the whey drawn off. The
curd is pressed in order to remove as much of the whey as possible, crumbled
fine, and fermented at a temperature of about 70° F. for 2 or 3 days, dur-
ing which time it is stirred frequently. When the cheese has acquired its
characteristic taste it is melted with the addition of water, salt, eggs, and
butter and put into molds of various kinds.

CANTAL.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow’s milk more or less skimmed.
Its manufacture is extensive in the Department of Cantal, France. It is also
known as Auvergne or Auvergne Blue on account of its being manufactured in
the region of the Auvergne Mountains. Locally the cheese is commonly known
as Fourme. The cheese is doubtless a very old variety, and the method of
manufacture has remained quite primitive. The milk, usually fresh but some-
times several hours old, is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., the
time allowed for coagulation being about 30 minutes. The curd is then cut very
finely and the whey dipped off. The curd is subjected to pressure in order to
remove as much of the whey as possible, and is allowed to ferment for 24 hours,
which process is considered very important. The curd is then broken up by
hand or by machinery and salted at the rate of 2.5 to 3 per cent. When
thoroughly kneaded it is put into hoops about 14 inches in diameter. Pressure
is applied for about 2 days, during which time it is turned very frequently.
The cheese is next transferred to the curing cellar, where it remains for 6
weeks to 6 months. The yield of cheese is usually 10 to 11 per cent of the
weight of the milk. A ripened cheese weighs from 40 to 120 pounds.

CHAMPOLEON.

Champoléon, or Queyras, is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in the
Department of Hautes-Alpes, France.

CHAOURCE.

This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its
name from the village of Chaource, in the Department of Aube, France. It is
about 4 inches in diameter and 38 inches thick,

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 15

CHASCHOL DE CHASCHOSIS.

This cheese is made in the Canton of Grisons, Switzerland. It is a hard ren-
net cheese made from skimmed cow’s milk. The cheeses are 18 to 22 inches in
diameter, 3 to 4 inches high, and weigh from 22 to 40 pounds.

CHEDDAR.

This cheese is so named from the village of Cheddar in Somersetshire, Eng-
land, where it was first made. It is a comparatively old cheese, though the gen-
uine Cheddar process as it is now known is not old. Cheddar cheese is an ex-
ceedingly popular variety, being much used as a food product in America and
England. It is probably the most important of all cheeses as regards the quan-
tity made annually. The term Cheddar as used at the present time applies
usually to a process of making rather than to any particular shape of cheese.
The name, however, is occasionally used to designate a certain size of cheese 14
to 16 inches in diameter, and weighing from 60 to 100 pounds. Cheese made by
the Cheddar process has, however, many different shapes with distinguishing
names, such as Flats, which have the same diameter as the Cheddar size, but
weigh only 30 to 40 pounds; Daisies, which are 12 inches in diameter and weigh
20 pounds; Young Americas, which are 8 inches in diameter and weigh 8 to 12
pounds; Long Horns, which are 5 inches in diameter and weigh 12 pounds; and
Squares, which are of various sizes and usually 3 to 4 inches thick. The cheese
may be white or colored yellow, and it may be almost fresh or thoroughly ripened
and broken down. It is made from sweet cow’s milk, which may be skimmed,
partly skimmed, or unskimmed. When made from unskimmed milk the cheese
is called ‘“‘ full cream; ” when otherwise, it is called “ part skim” or “ Skim.”

The milk, morning’s and evening’s mixed, is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet
to coagulate to the proper point in from 25 to 40 minutes. At the time of set-
ting the milk should have an acidity of about 0.18 to 0.20 per cent. Color may
or may not be used. The curd is cut when it breaks evenly before the finger.
The cutting is done with curd knives. These knives are made up of blades set
about one-third of an inch apart in frames. In one frame the knives are set per-
pendicularly and in the other horizontally. When well cut the curd is in uni-
form cubes of about one-third of an inch.

After cutting the curd is heated slowly and with continued stirring until it
reaches a temperature of from 96° to 108°. With the use of mechanical agita-
tors, as is the common practice, the curd should be heated about 4 degrees
higher than when stirring is done by hand. After heating the stirring is con-
tinued intermittently until the curd is sufficiently firm. This is determined by
squeezing a handful, which should fall apart immediately on being released.
The whey is then drawn. At the same time the acid should have reached about
0.20 per cent or one-fourth of an inch on the hot iron, which latter is determined
by measuring the length of strings when the curd is touched to a hot iron. The

curd is then matted about 4 inches deep, sometimes in the bottom of the vat,
sometimes on racks covered with a coarse linen cloth. After it has remained
here long enough to stick together it is cut into rectangular pieces easy to handle,
which are turned frequently and finally piled two to four deep; in the mean-
while the temperature of the curd is kept at about 90°. When the curd has
broken down until it has the smooth feeling of velvet, which requires from one
to three hours, it is milled by means of a machine, which cuts it into pieces the
size of a finger. It is then stirred on the bottom of the vat until whey ceases to
run, which requires from one-half to one and one-half hours, when it is salted at
the rate of 2 to 24 pounds of salt to 100 pounds of milk. It is then ready to put
in press. The curd is put into tinned iron hoops of the proper size, which are

16 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

lined with cheese-cloth bandages. The hoops are put in presses and great pres-
sure is applied by means of screws. The next morning the cheese is removed
from the hoops and put on shelves in a curing room. Formerly the cheese was
kept in a curing room as long as 6 months, but at the present time it is covered
with a coat of paraffin and put in cold storage when 3 to 12 days of age. There
is a growing demand on the part of consumers for mild cheese, and consequently
ripening must be carried on at a temperature below 50°.

An important point in the process of manufacturing Cheddar cheese is the
development of the desired amount of acid. A maximum quantity in the whey
that can be developed without injuring the texture of the cheese is aimed at,
and the proper breaking down of the curd before milling and salting is
attributed to the acid. It is very probable that too much weight has been
placed on the desirability of a maximum development of acid, and that prac-
tically as good cheese can be produced without the high acid.

Some of the details in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese are varied to
some extent, and other names may be used to designate the cheese so made.
A stirred curd cheese is one where the curd particles are not allowed to mat
together after the whey is drawn. The curd is stirred at intervals to prevent
this matting process, but it differs from the sweet curd cheese, as acid is allowed
to develop before salting and pressing. Formerly there was a comparatively
large quantity of stirred curd cheese made, but there is very little, if any, made
at the present time.

A washed curd cheese varies from the regular Cheddar process in haying the
milled curd subjected for a short period to cold water. This process is
evidently practiced to ferce the curd to take up a small percentage of the
water and increase the yield. It results in a cheese which apparently breaks
down or ripens much more rapidly than cheese made in the ordinary way.
This ripening is very likely not due to the excess of moisture but to some
other unexplained reason. Some States have prohibited the use of the State
brand on washed curd cheese.

CHESHIRE.

This cheese is one of the oldest and most popular of the English varieties.
Tt is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk, and is named for
Chester County, England, where it is largely produced. It is made in cylin-
drical shape from 14 to 16 inches in diameter, and weighs 50 to 70 pounds.
In making this cheese sufficient annatto is used to give the product a very
high color. The process of manufacture varies in detail in different sections.
Perfectly sweet milk, night’s and morning’s mixed, is set at a temperature of
from 75° to 90° F. The curd is cut in 1 hour, usually with an instrument in
which knives are set in a frame to cut cubes 1 to 1} inches square. This is
pushed down through the curd and finally worked back and forth at an angle.
This is continued until the particles of curd are the size of peas, which requires
about 1 hour. The curd is then allowed to settle and mat on the bottom of
the vat for about an hour, when it is rolled up to one end, weighted down,
and the whey drawn after the desired degree of acidity has been obtained.
The curd is cut in pieces the right size to handle and is piled on racks. It is
then run through a curd mill, salted at the rate of 3 pounds to 1,000 pounds
of milk, and put into a hoop having a number of holes in the side through
which skewers can be thrust into the cheese to promote drainage. The cheese
in the hoop is put in a heated wooden box called an oven, and sometimes light
pressure is applied, the pressure increasing gradually until it reaches about
1 ton. The curing cellar or room is about 60° to 65°. From 8 to 10 months
is required for thorough ripening.

' VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 17
CHESHIRE-STILTON.

This is a combination of the Cheshire and Stilton varieties of cheese in
which the general characteristics of size and shape and manufacture of the
Cheshire is retained, and a growth of the mold peculiar to Stilton is secured.
The mold is secured by keeping out each day a small portion of curd and
mixing it with some curd in which the mold is growing well.

CHIAVARI.

This is a sour-milk cheese made in the region of Chiavari, Italy, from whole
cow’s milk. It is also known as Cacio Romano. A hard rennet cheese made
in the same region is also known by this name.

COMMISSION.

This cheese is made in Holiand and resembles Edam in the process of manu-
facture, but it has a slightly different shape, being flattened at the ends. It is
said to be made from whole cow’s milk.

COTHERSTONE.

This is a rennet cow’s-milk cheese made in Yorkshire, England, and resembles
the well-known Stilton cheese of that country. It is a lucal product manufac-
tured only on a small scale. It has also been known as Yorkshire-Stilton.

COOKED.

This kind of cheese is so called because the curd is heated to the melting point
in its manufacture. It is made from fresh curd prepared by breaking up and
heating the curd of sour clabbered milk. When cooled sufficiently this curd is
placed in a receptacle and allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days until it has become
eolored throughout. It is then put into a kettle over a fire; salt, milk, and
usually caraway seed are added, and the whole is stirred vigorously until it
becomes of the consistency of thick molasses, or until it strings when a spoon
is withdrawn. ‘he mass can then be put into molds until it becomes cold, or
placed in a vessel for keeping. It gets hard with cooling and will retain the
shape of the mold.

Cooked cheese, made in northern Germany, is called Topfen, and a similar
product made in Sardinia is called Freisa, and Paneddas. The same kind of
cheese made in Belgium is called Belgian cooked cheese. Similar kinds are
made in other countries.

COTTAGE.

This is a sour-milk cheese made extensively in this country, where it is often
called Dutch cheese, and Smearcase. It is manufactured usually in a very
small way, but occasionally it is made in large factories. Skim milk is allowed
to sour and the curd is then broken up and held at a temperature of about
100° F. for 3 to 4 hours, or until it has become sufficiently firm. The whey is
then drained off and the curd placed under slight pressure for a time. The curd
is either consumed immediately or is packed in tubs and placed in cold storage.
It is prepared for eating by moistening with either milk or cream. Sometimes
it is made up into shapes and wrapped in tin foil. No ripening is ever allowed.

10415°—Bull, 146—11——2

18 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. ~

COULOMMIERS.

This is a small-sized Brie cheese 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1 inch in
thickness, and weighing about 1 pound. It is made in the region of Coulom-
miers, France.

CREAM.

Genuine cream ‘cheese is made from a rich cream thickened by souring, or
from sweet cream thickened with rennet. This is put in a cloth and allowed to
drain, the cloth being changed several times during tne draining, which re-
quires about 4 days. It is then placed on a board covered with a cloth, sprinkled
with salt, and turned occasionally. It is ready for consumption in from 5 to 10
days.

Another variety of cream cheese is made from cream with a low content of
fat (12 to 15 per cent). The cream is curdled with rennet, broken up to allow a
part of the whey to escape, and is then mixed and worked into almost a paste.
This is then molded into pieces weighing 2 to 4 ounces, which are wrapped in
tin foil and placed on the market without curing. It is a very mild and a very
rich cheese and is manufactured on an extensive scale by a few large factories
in the United States.

A so-called double-cream cheese, known in France as Fromage Double Créme,
is made by coagulating a mixture of milk and cream and putting this into a
cloth and allowing it to drain thoroughly, when it is salted, kneaded, and molded
into any desired shape. It is eaten fresh. The Gervais is a cheese of this kind.

A French cream cheese, Fromage 4 la Créme, is prepared by mixing sweet
eream with well-ripened sour-milk curd or rennet curd. Another French cream
cheese, which contains considerable salt as a preservative, is known as Demi-
sel. There are in addition several cream cheeses having specific names, such
as Philadelphia Cream.

In the United States cream cheese is usually sold under some trade name,
such as Philadelphia Cream. The manufacturers in this country have in some
cases attempted to vary this cheese by the use of some flavoring matter or
condimert.

CREUSE.

This is a skim-milk farm cheese made in the department of the same name in
France. Coagulation is secured either by the addition of a small quantity of
rennet or by heating the sour milk. When set with rennet the period required
is usually 12 hours. The curd is put into earthenware molds about 7 inches in
diameter and 5 to 6 inches in height, the bottom and sides being perforated.
After draining for several days the cheese is removed from the molds, salted,
and turned frequently. It becomes in time very dry and hard and may be
preserved for a year or longer. The cheese is also ripened by placing in tightly
closed receptacles lined with straw, in which case it becomes yellow and soft
and acquires a very pronounced taste.

CRISTALINNA.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in the Canton of Grau-
bunden, Switzerland.

DAMEN.

This is a soft uncured rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in Hungary and is
much in demand in the markets of Vienna. It is sometimes known as Gloire
des Montagnes.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 19

DANISH EXPORT.

This cheese is made in some of the creameries of Denmark to furnish an
outlet for the skim milk and the buttermilk. In the process of manufacture as
high as 15 per cent of fresh buttermilk is added to the skim milk. The mixture
is set at 98° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate in 25 minutes. The curd is
carefully and evenly cut, stirred for a few minutes, dipped into forms having
rounded bottoms, kneaded, pressed down, and finally covered with a board, upon
which a weight is placed. Twelve hours later the cheeses are placed in a brine
tank for 24 hours, when they are taken out and covered with salt for a short
time. They are then transferred to the ripening room, where the temperature
is about 55°, and are turned and wiped with a cloth every day for 5 weeks. The
cheeses are cylindrical in shape and are small and flat.

DERBYSHIRE.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow’s milk in Derbyshire, Eng-
land. It is cylindrical in shape and about the size of the Cheshire, though often
smaller. It is made usually in farm dairies, and because of this fact the size
varies with the size of the herd. The quality also varies to such an extent that
very few really good cheeses can be found. Night’s milk in which the develop-
ment of acid has been prevented as much as possible is mixed with the morning’s
milk, and the whole is set at a temperature of 80° F. The setting period is 1
hour, and the curd is allowed to become very firm before cutting. The curd
is cut to the size of a pea and after being allowed to settle is piled in the center
of the vat, where, after the whey is removed, it is subjected to light pressure.
The curd is cut and again piled and heavier pressure applied. This is repeated
until the curd reaches a certain degree of firmness, when it is run through a
mill and salted at the rate of 1 pound of salt to 1,000 pounds of milk. It is
then put in a press for 1 hour, when it is removed and the surface of the cheese
scalded for 1 minute in water heated to 150°. It is put back in the press for 5
hours, the pressure applied being gradually increased, when it is salted on the
surface and again pressed. The pressing continues for 3 days, the cheese being
salted each day. The curing room is kept preferably at 60°, and the time
required for curing is from 3 to 4 months.

A cheese called Gloucester made in the county of Gloucester, England, is said
to be identical with Derbyshire cheese. Double Gloucester is identical with
single Gloucester in all respects but size. It is twice as thick as a single
Gloucester, hence the name. Wiltshire, Leicestershire, and Warwickshire
cheeses belong to the Derbyshire type.

DEVONSHIRE CREAM.

In making this cheese the cream is allowed to rise for several hours, when
the milk with the layer of cream is scalded. It is then set away for a short
time in order that the layer of cream may harden. The cream is then put into
small molds and placed upon straw mats to drain. After becoming hard enough
to retain its shape it is ready for market.

DORSET.

Dorset, or Blue Dorset, is a cheese resembling in character and method of
manufacture the better known Stilton. It is named from Dorsetshire, England,
in which it is made.

20 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

DOTTER.

This cheese is said to have been made by G. Leuchs, in Nurnberg, by mixing
the yoik of eggs with skim milk and making this mixture into cheese in the
usual way.

DRY.

This cheese, known also as Sperrkiise and Trockenkise, is made in the east-
ern part of the Bavarian Alps and in,the Tyrol, in the small dairies of those
localities. It is an extremely simple product made for home consumption, and
is made only in the winter season, when the milk can not be profitably used
for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle
which can be swung over a fire. Here it is kept warm until it is thoroughly
thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small
quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is
put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it
becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating.

DUEL.

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. It is an Austrian
product, 2 by 2 by 1 inches in size.

DUNLOP.

This was formerly the national cheese of Scotland, but it has been almost
superseded by the Cheddar, which it resembled.

EDAM.

This is a hard rennet cheese produced in Holland; it is also known as Katzen-
kopf, Téte de Maure, and Manbollen. The best of the product is made of un-
skimmed cow’s milk, but much of it at the present time is made from milk
which has had at least one-half of the fat removed. The cheeses are round
and are colored deep red on the surface or wrapped in tin foil.

The perfectly fresh milk is set at 90° to 95° F. Color is added and sufficient
rennet is used to coagulate the milk in 15 minutes. The curd is cut and after
a very short stirring is allowed to settle to the bottom, when the whey is dipped
off. The curd is gathered in a pile and pressure is applied for a short time to
expel the whey. Care is taken in the meanwhile that the curd does not get
below 82° or above 90°. The curd is then ready for the press. Sometimes
wooden molds are used, but the best are made of iron. An attempt is made to
put just sufficient curd into the mold to make a perfect sphere when pressed.
When the mold is half full a little salt is added. When the mold is full, it is
pressed lightly until the cheese will hold its form, when it is taken out and im-
mersed in water for two minutes at 125°. The cheese is then put in the press,
where it remains for 12 hours. It is then removed from one mold and placed
in another form resembling the mold but without a cover, and having a hole
leading from the bottom. The cheese is salted by rubbing salt on the surface.
Sometimes it is kept in a salt bath for a day before putting salt on the surface.
Following the salting, the cheese is washed in hot whey, and the surface is
scraped smooth. It is then taken to the ripening cellar, which should have a
temperature of between 50° and 70°. Here it is turned daily for a time and
finally twice a week. In the meanwhile it is occasionally moistened with cold
water or fresh beer. When the cheese is 1 month old it is washed in water at

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 91

70° for 20 minutes and then placed in the sun to dry, after which it is rubbed
with linseed oil. Before shipping the cheese is colored, usually red, but for
some markets it is colored yellow with annatto. This coloring is done with a
watery solution of litmus and Berlin red, or with carmine. A considerable
quantity of this cheese is imported into the United States. At the present time
some Edam cheeses are inclosed in air-tight tins for export.

ELBING.

This is a West Prussian hard rennet cheese made from cow’s milk which,
during the winter, is partly skimmed, but at other times left whole. It is
known also as Werderkiise and Niederungskiise. Enough rennet is added to
the milk at a temperature of 80° F. to coagulate it in from 15 to 30 minutes.
The curd is cut and cooked to 100°, salted in the granular state, and pressed
for 12 hours. <A cheese is 10 to 20 inches in diameter and 3 to 4 inches in
thickness. Ripening requires about 1 month at a temperature of 75°.

EMMENTAL.

This a hard rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk, and has a
mild, somewhat sweetish flavor. It is characterized by holes or eyes which
develop to about the size of a penny in typical cheeses and are situated from
1 to 3 inches apart. Cheese of the same kind made in the United States is
known as Domestic Swiss, and that made in the region of Lake Constance is
called Algau Emmental. Other local names are Bellunese, Formaggio Dolce,
Fontine d’Aosta, and Thraanen.

Emmental cheese originated in Canton Bern, Valley of Emmental, Switzer-
land. It is a very old variety. In the middle of the fifteenth century a cheese
probably of this type was manufactured in the Canton of Emmental. In the
middle of the seventeenth century the industry was well developed and genuine
Emmental cheese was being exported. In 1722 its manufacture under the name
of Gruyére is recorded in France, two cooperative societies having been organ-
ized for this purpose.

Emmental cheese is now manufactured in every civilized country. In the
United States there are many factories, located principally in Wisconsin, New
York, and Ohio. In Switzerland the greater part of the milk produced is made
into this product, and large districts in France and northern Italy are devoted
to its manufacture. The best of the product made in Switzerland is exported,
about 5,000,000 pounds coming to the United States annually. The imported
cheese sells in this country at about 25 cents a pound wholesale, and the do-
mestie cheese sells at about 14 cents. Practically as good cheese can be manu--
factured in the United States as in Switzerland, but prejudice, combined with
the fact that much of the domestic product is sold as imported, has held the
price at a low level.

There is a slight difference in manipulation of the milk in making Emmental
cheese in this country as compared with Switzerland. In the latter country the
evening’s and morning’s milk are made up together, while in the United States it
is popularly believed that the evening’s milk must be made into cheese immedi-
ately after milking, as is done with the morning’s milk.

In making the cheese in Switzerland the evening’s milk is skimmed; the fresh
morning’s milk is heated to 108° to 110° F. and the cream from the evening’s
milk is added and well stirred in. The cooled evening’s milk with a little saf-
fron is then added and the whole is mixed. The milk is then brought to a tem-
perature of 90° in summer and 95° in winter and sufficient rennet is added to

pup VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

coagulate the milk in 30 to 40 minutes. The whole process is carried through
in a huge copper kettle holding 300 gallons of milk. The rennet used is the
calf’s stomach soaked for 24 hours in whey. When the milk has thickened to
almost the desired point for cutting, which is practically the same as for ordi-
nary American or Cheddar cheese, the thin surface layer is scooped off and
turned bottom side up. This is supposed to aid in incorporating the layer of
cream with the cheese. The curd is then cut very coarse by means of a so-called
harp. The cheese maker with a wooden scoop in each hand then draws the
mass of curd toward him, that lying on the bottom of the kettle being brought
to the surface. At this point the cheese maker and an assistant commence
stirring the curd with the harp, a breaker having first been fitted to the inside
of the kettle to interrupt the current of the whey and curd. The harps are
given a circular motion and cut the curd very fine—about the size of wheat
kernels or smaller.

After this stage is reached heating is commenced. In Switzerland all of the
heating until recently was done over an open fire, the kettle being swung on a
large crane, and most of the factories have the same method at the present time.
In this country the same method was followed in the early days of the industry,
but at the present time inclosed fireplaces into which the kettle can be swung
and doors closed to retain the heat are largely employed. This takes away
much of the discomfort of the operation. In a few instances the kettles are set
in cement and an iron car containing the fire is run under it. The more modern
factories employ steam, and this appears to be the most satisfactory way.
When the heating is begun the contents of the kettle are brought rapidly to the
desired temperature, which may be from 126° to 140°, the higher temperature
often being necessary to get the curd sufficiently firm. The stirring in the mean-
while continues for about 1 hour, with slight interruptions near the end of the
process when the curd has become so firm that it will not mat together. The
end of the cooking is determined by the firmness of the curd, which is judged
by matting a small cake with pressure by the hands and noting the ease with
which this cake breaks when held by the edge.

When the curd is sufficiently firm the contents of the kettle are rotated
rapidly and allowed to come to standstill as the momentum is lost. This brings
all the curd into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle. One edge of a
heavy linen cloth resembling burlap is wrapped around a piece of hoop iron and
by this means the cloth is slipped under the pile of curd. The mass of curd is
then raised from the whey by means of a rope and pulley and lowered into a
cheese hoop on the draining table. These hoops are 4 to 6 inches deep and
vary greatly in diameter. The cloth is folded over the cheese, a large follower
is put on top, and the press is allowed to come down on the cheese. The press
is usually a log swung at one end and operated by a double lever. Pressure is
continued for the first time just long enough for the curd mass to retain its
shape. The hoop is then removed, the cheese turned over, and a dry cloth sub-
stituted. The cheese is allowed to remain in the press about 24 hours, during
which time it is turned and a dry cloth substituted several times (six or more).

At the end of the pressing the curd should be a homogeneous mass without
holes. The cheese is then removed to the salting board, covered with a layer of
salt, and turned occasionally. In a day or two it is put in the salting tank in a
brine strong enough to float an egg; it remains here at the discretion of the
cheese maker for 1 to 4 days. Often no brine tank is used with Emmental
cheese.

The cheese is then taken to the curing cellar. In the best factories two or
more cellars with different temperatures are available, and the cheeses are
placed in them according to the way the cheese maker thinks their development

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 23

requires. If it appears that the cheese may develop too fast and have too many
and too large eyes, the cheese is placed in a cool cellar; if the reverse is true, a
warm cellar is selected. The cellars vary in temperature from 55° to 65°,
though in extreme cases 70° or a little higher may be used. While the cheeses
are in the ripening cellar, which in Switzerland may be 6 to 10 months or longer,
and in the United States 3 to 6 months, they should be turned and washed every
other day for the first 2 or 3 months and at longer intervals subsequently,
and at the same time a little coarse salt is sprinkled on the surface. In a
few hours this salt has dissolved, and the brine is spread over the surface with
a long-handled brush.

The cheeses are very large, about 6 inches in thickness and sometimes as
much as 4 feet in diameter, and weigh from 60 to 220 pounds. In shipping, a
number of them are placed in a tub which may contain 1,000 pounds of cheese.
Sometimes Emmental cheese is made up in the form of blocks instead of like
millstones. The blocks are about 28 inches long and 8 inches square in the
other dimensions.

ENGADINE.

This is made in the Canton of Graubiinden, Switzerland, and is a rennet
cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk.

ENGLISH DAIRY.

This name is applied to a very hard cheese, made in the same general way as
Cheddar, but cooked much more. This cheese has been made mostly in the
United States. It is used for culinary purposes.

EPOISSE.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the
Department of Cote d’Or, France.
ERVY.

This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving
its name from the village of Ervy, in the Department of Aube, France. A
cheese is about 7 inches in diameter, 23 inches thick, and weighs about 4 pounds.

FARM.

This cheese, made in France, and known variously as Fromage a la Pie, Mou,
Maigre, and Ferme, is essentially the same as our Cottage cheese. The method
of making is very simple. When the skimmed milk has become curdled the
whey is poured off and the curd kneeded and molded into various sizes and
shapes. Draining is sometimes hastened by placing a board and weight upon
the curd. Salt and sometimes sweet cream are added. The cheese is consumed
usually on the farm where made, either while fresh or after it has undergone
fermentation.

FILLED.

Filled cheese is the name applied to cheese from which the butter fat has been
removed and foreign fats added. The foreign fat is added by stirring it vio-
lently in the milk and setting with sufficient rennet to coagulate quickly. The
rest of the manufacture is the same as for Cheddar cheese. Filled cheese was
very extensively manufactured in the United States for a number of years, but
State and Federal laws have made this no longer practical. Many of the
European varieties of cheese are counterfeited or adulterated in the same
manner. ,

24 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

FLOWER.

This cheese is so named because it is made with the addition of the petals of
various kinds of flowers, such as roses and marigolds. It is a soft cured rennet
cheese made in England from whole cow’s milk.

FORMAGELLE.

This is a small soft ripened rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in the north-
western part of Italy.

FORMAGGINI.

This name is applied to several kinds of small Italian cheeses. The kind
designated Formaggini di Lecco is a small cylindrical dessert cheese, weighing
about 2 ounces, made in the region of Lecco, in Lombardy. It is consumed while
fresh and sweet and at all stages of ripening until it becomes very piquant.
Sometimes salt, pepper, sugar, and cinnamon are mixed with this cheese, and
occasionally oil and vinegar are added. The method of manufacture is not
essentially different from that of other soft cheeses. Cow’s milk is used with
the addition at times of some goat’s milk. Rennet is added to the warmed
milk, which is then allowed to stand for 24 hours at a temperature of about
55° F. The curd, with as little breaking up as possible, is allowed to drain for
3 to 4 hours, when it is salted and put into cylindrical molds about 14 inches
in diameter and 2 inches high.

FROMAGE FORT.

Several kinds of cooked cheese prepared in France are known by this name.
In the Department of Ain, Fromage Fort is prepared by melting well-drained
skim-milk curd, putting the melted mass into a cloth, and subjecting it to
pressure and afterwards burying it in dry ashes in order to remove as much of
the whey as possible. The mass is then grated fine and allowed to ferment for
8 to 10 days, after which milk, butter, salt, pepper, wine, etc., are added to it,
and the mixture is allowed to undergo further fermentation.

Canquillote, Cancoillotte, or Fromagére, prepared in the eastern part of
France, is a cheese of this kind, as is also the Fondue, or cooked cheese, of
Lorraine.

GAMMELOST.

Gammelost is made in Norway from skimmed sour milk. The milk is cooked
or warmed in a kettle and allowed to stand for 1 hour while the precipitated
casein gathers at the bottom. This is taken up in a cloth, and the whole is put
into a form where light pressure is applied. The cheese still in the cloth in the
form is put in the hot whey for an hour, when it is again placed under pressure
for a short period. It is put in a warm place and turned daily. At the end of
14 days it is packed in a chest with wet straw. The cheeses vary in weight from
24 to 65 pounds.

GAUTRAIS.

This is a cylindrical cheese weighing about 5 pounds and very closely resem-
bling Port du Salut. It is made in the Department of Mayenne, France.

GAVOT.

This cheese is made from cow’s, sheep’s, or goat’s milk in the Department of
Hautes-Alpes, France.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 25

GEHEIMRATH.

This is a cheese made in small quantities in Holland. It resembles a small
Gouda cheese in quality and process of manufacture. It is colored a deep yellow.

GEROME.

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the mountainous regions of the Vosges,
France. The name is a corruption of Gérardmer, a village in the region where
the cheese has been made for at least 50 years. The variety is very similar to
Miinster, but not so well known.

Cow’s milk is used almost exclusively, though at times a little goat’s milk is
added. The fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 80° to 90° F.
In about one-half hour after adding the rennet the curd is cut into rather
large cubes and allowed to stand for about 1 hour when the whey is dipped off.
The curd is then put into cylindrical forms or hoops 6 to 7 inches in diameter.
Formerly these were made of wood, one being placed upon another, making a
total height of 14 to 15 inches. They are now being made also on tin and in
various sizes. The cheeses are turned after 6 hours and again after 12 hours.
During the next 2 or 8 days they are turned twice daily, the hoops being
changed each time. A room temperature between 60° and 70° is desired during
this process. The cheeses are then salted, the amount of salt used being from
8 to 3.5 per cent of the weight of the cheese.

The cheeses are then placed in a well-ventilated room for several days and
when sufficiently dry are transferred to the curing cellar. Here they are turned
frequently and worked with warm salt water to prevent the growth of molds.
Ripening requires from 6 weeks to 4 months, depending upon the size of the
cheeses, which vary in weight from one-half pound to 5 pounds or more. Anise
is sometimes incorporated with the curd before putting into the forms. Such
cheese when old often has a greenish appearance.

GERVAIS.

This is a French cheese made from a mixture of whole milk and cream. The
mixture is set with rennet at about 65° F., the time required being about 12
hours. The curd is then inclosed in cloth and hung up to drain. When suffi-
ciently dry it is salted and pressed into molds. The molds are soon removed and
the cheese is wrapped in paraffin paper. The cheese is usually consumed while
fresh, but may be kept for several days.

GEX.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. It belongs to the class
of blue or marbled cheese known in France as Fromage Persillé, which includes
Sassenage, Septmoncel, and several other kinds resembling Roquefort. It is
made principally in the southeastern part of France and derives its name from
the town of Gex, in the Department of Ain, where the cheese has been made for
at least 60 years. There has been little tendency for the industry to extend to
other regions than that in which it originated, and even here it is said to be
diminishing.

Rennet is added to the fresh milk as soon as possible after milking. The time
allowed for coagulation is 14 to 2 hours. The curd is then broken up and
stirred until the mass is in a semiliquid condition, when it is allowed to stand
for about 10 minutes. After the curd has settled to the bottom of the vat the
whey is drained off. The curd is then worked by hand, salted lightly, and put

°6 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

into hoops about 12 inches in diameter and 5 inches in height. In about 1 hour
the cheese is turned and a disk and weight placed upon it. The turning is re-
peated three or four times a day, the hoops being removed at the end of the
first day. After salting, the cheese is taken to the curing room, where it soon
acquires a bluish appearance, due to the development of a penicillium. ‘This
mold is not introduced into the interior of the cheese during making by means
of mottled bread, as is the case with Roquefort cheese. The ripening process,
which requires from 3 to 4 months, is completed in cellars or natural caves, A
ripened cheese weighs from 14 to 15 pounds.

GISLEV.

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow’s milk.

GLUMSE.

This cheese is made from sour skimmed milk in western Prussia. The thick-
ened milk is placed over a slow fire at about 105° F. and is cooked as long as
any whey is expelled. The cooking may be done by pouring hot water into
the milk. After cooking, the curd is removed from the whey with a perforated
dipper and is allowed to drain in a hair sieve. Milk or cream is added to the
cheese just before eating. This is evidently a cottage cheese.

GOAT’S MILK.

There are a large number of goat’s-milk cheeses, many of which are not des-
ignated by local names. In France some of these are known by the names
Chevret or Chevrotin, in Italy as Formaggio di Capra, and in German-speaking
countries as Ziegenkise or Gaiskiisli. Among those in France to which local
names have been attached are Gratairon, Lamothe, and Poitiers.

The Gaiskisli is a soft cheese made in certain parts of Germany and Switzer-
land. The milk is set with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in about 40 minutes.
The curd is then broken up, stirred, and dipped into cylindrical molds about 3
inches in diameter. The mold is filled sufficiently to make a cheese 1% to 2
inches thick and weighing one-half pound. The mold is set on a straw mat
which allows the whey to drain freely, and salt is sprinkled on the surface.
In 2 days the cheese is turned, and the other surface is salted. The cheese
requires about 3 weeks to ripen and is said to have a very pleasant flavor.

A kind of cheese is made in Norway by drying goat’s milk by boiling, fresh
milk or cream sometimes being added during the process.

GORGONZOLA.

This variety, known also as Stracchino di Gorgonzola, is a rennet Italian
cheese made from whole cow’s milk. The name is taken from the village of
Gorgonzola, near Milan, but very little of this cheese is now made in that
immediate locality. The interior of the cheese is mottled or veined with a peni-
cillium much like Roquefort, and for this reason the cheese has been grouped
with the Roquefort and Stilton varieties. As seen upon the markets in this
country, the surface of the cheese is covered with a thin coat resembling clay,
said to be prepared by mixing barite or gypsum, lard or tallow, and coloring
matter. The cheeses are cylindrical in shape, being about 12 inches in diameter
and 6 inches in height, and as marketed are wrapped in paper and packed with
straw in wicker baskets.

The manufacture of Gorgonzola cheese is an important industry in Lombardy,
where formerly it was carried on principally during the months of September

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. Pg)

and October, but with the establishment of curing cellars in the Alps, especially
near Lecco, the manufacture is no longer confined to this season.

The milk used in making this cheese is warmed to a temperature of about 75°
F. and coagulated rapidly with rennet, the time required being usually from 15 to
20 minutes. The curd is then cut very finely and inclosed in a cloth and drained,
after which it is put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 10 inches high. It
was formerly the custom to allow the curd from the evening’s milk to drain over
night and to mix it with the fresh warm curd from the morning’s milk prepared
in the same way. The curd from the evening’s milk and that from the morn-
ing’s milk, crumbled very fine, were put into hoops in layers with moldy bread
crumbs interspersed between the layers. The cheese is turned frequently for
4 or 5 days, the cloths being changed occasionally, and is salted from the out-
side, the process requiring about 2 weeks. It is then transferred to the curing
rooms, where a low temperature is usually maintained. At an early stage in
the process of ripening the cheese is usually punched with an instrument about
6 inches long, tapering from a sharp point to a diameter of about one-eighth
inch at the base. About 150 holes are made in each cheese. This favors the
development of the penicillium throughout the interior of the cheese. Well-
made cheese may be kept for a year or longer. In the region where made much
of the cheese is consumed while in a fresh condition.

GOUDA.

This is a Holland cheese made from whole or partly skimmed cow’s milk. It
is round and weighs 10 to 45 pounds. The milk, to which coloring matter
has been added, is set at 91° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 15
minutes. The curd is cut or broken with a wooden scoop, a harp, or an Amer-
ican cheese knife. It is allowed to stand for a minute and the whey is dipped
off. Hot whey or hot water is poured on the mass of curd until the whole
has reached a temperature of 104° to 110°. When the curd squeaks or whistles
when it is crushed between the teeth the whey or water is dipped off and the
curd is stirred and piled where it will drain well. The curd is then thoroughly
kneaded and sometimes lightly salted. After salting, the curd is put into
round molds and placed in a press, where it remains for 24 hours with increas-
ing pressure. The cheese is then salted either by immersion in brine or by
rubbing salt on the surface. The salting continues for 4 to 8 days. After
salting, the cheese is washed with hot whey. It is then transferred to the
ripening cellar, where it is turned daily for several days and finally once a
week until ripened. It is ready for consumption in 6 to 8 months. When the
cheese is a few days old it is washed with water and colored with saffron.
Some of this cheese is shipped to the United States. As seen in this country,
each cheese is covered with an animal tissue said to be a bladder.

GOURNAY.

This is a soft rennet cheese which derives its name from the village of Gour-
nay in the Department of Seine-Inférieure, France, where it is made. It is
about 3 inches in diameter and three-fourths inch thick.

GOYA.

This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Corrientes, in the Argentine
Republic. Hither whole or partly skimmed milk is used. It is heated to a tem-
perature of 75° to 85° F. and coagulated with rennet in 15 to 30 minutes. The
curd is cut and put into sacks to drain, after which it is put into molds.

98 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

GRANULAR CURD.

This cheese resembles the genuine Cheddar process cheese in all points ex-
cepting that it is not matted and milled. As soon as the curd is cooked firm
enough it is salted and pressed. Because no acid is developed between cooking
and pressing, a little more acid may be allowed to develop before drawing the
whey, and the curd should be cooked firmer.

GRAY.

This is a sour skim-milk product of the Tyrol. When the milk is thickened
the curd is brought to a proper firmness by light heating, and is then dipped
into a cheese cloth, care being taken that the flocculent matter at the bottom
of the kettle is thoroughly mixed with the rest of the curd in order to insure an
even product. The curd is put under a press for 10 minutes, when it is broken
up by hand or in a mill and salt and pepper are added. The curd is then put
into forms or hoops, and to insure the proper ripening a little well-ripened
grated gray cheese is added, or bread crumbs with the characteristic mold
growth are mixed with the curd as it is put into the forms. The forms are
made in yarious shapes and sizes and are supplied with holes to facilitate
drainage. The cheese remains in the forms under pressure for 24 hours, and
is then taken to the drying room, which has a temperature of 70° F. The
length of time it should remain in the drying room is determined by the appear-
ance of the cheese. It is then taken to the ripening cellar. The cheese when
ripened has a pleasant taste and a gray appearance through the entire mass.

GRUYERE.

This name is applied to Emmental cheese manufactured in France, the name
originating from the Swiss village of Gruyére. The cheese was first mentioned
in 1722, when two societies were reported to have been organized for its manu-
facture. The Gruyére cheese is made in three different qualities—whole milk,
partly skimmed, and skimmed. It is usually made from partly skimmed milk,
and this is supposed to distinguish it from Emmental, which is supposed to
be made from whole milk. The manufacture of Gruyére cheese is an extensive
industry in France, about 50,000,000 pounds having been manufactured annually
the latter part of the last century.

GUSSING.

This is an Austrian skim-milk cheese weighing from 4 to 8 pounds. It re-
sembles very much the Brick cheese of the United States and is made in practi-
cally the same way.

HAND.

Hand cheese is so named because it was molded originally into its final shape
by hand. It is a sour-milk cheese, very popular among German races, and
manufactured in many countries.

The process of making varies in different localities, but in general is about
as follows: The skimmed milk is mixed with buttermilk and put into a tinned
vessel, where it is held at a favorable temperature for souring. When thick
the curd is broken up by stirring and heated to 120° F. The cooking is con-
tinued for about 3 hours and for the first hour of this time is stirred thoroughly.
After cooking, the whey is drained off and the curd is put in a mold for cooling.
It is then ground fine in a curd mill and salt is incorporated, and for some kinds

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 29

caraway seed is added. The curd is then pressed into the desired shapes and
sizes. The small cheeses are dried in a warm room and then transferred to the
curing cellar, where they are kept on shelves until the ripening on the surface
has commenced, when they are packed in boxes. The cheese has a very sharp,
pungent odor and taste, which to most people unaccustomed to it is very dis-
agreeable.

There are many local names for hand cheeses, among which are the following:
Thuringia caraway cheese; Ihlefeld, made in Mecklenburg; Livlander, made in
Russia; Olmiitzer Bierkiise; Dresdener Bierkiise; Satz, made in Saxony;
Tyrol sour cheese; Berliner Kuhkiise; and Alt Kuhkiase.

HARZ.

This is a hand cheese made in different sizes. It is 14 to 24 inches in diam-
eter and one-fourth to three-fourths inch in thickness and weighs one-fourth
pound. It is identical in manufacture with hand cheese,

HAY.

This cheese, known as Fromage de Foin, is a skim-milk variety made in the
Department of Seine-Inférieure, France. The cheese derives its name from
the fact that it is ripened on as freshly cut hay as possible, which gives a
characteristic aroma to the cheese. The cheese in some respects resembles a
poor grade of Livarot. It is about 10 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches
thick.

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. In about 1
hour the curd is cut and the whey removed; the curd is then pressed to re-
move as much of the whey as possible, after which it is pressed by hand into
molds. After draining for about 2 days it is put into the drying room, where
it remains for about 3 weeks, when it is taken to the curing cellar and buried
in hay. After remaining here for 6 weeks to 3 months it is ready for sale.
The consumption of this variety is largely restricted to the region where it is
made.

HOHENHEIM.

This is a soft cheese made in Hohenheim from partly skimmed milk. It is
cylindrical in shape, 4 to 6 inches in diameter, and weighs about one-half pound.

The skimmed evening’s milk is added to the morning’s milk and heated in
a copper kettle to 110° F. Some saffron is used for color and rennet is added.
In 1 to 14 hours the curd is broken up and the whey dipped off. Caraway
seed is stirred in, by which process the curd is reduced to smaller particles.
It is then dipped into tin hoops having holes to allow easy draining. The
curd remains in these hoops for 12 hours and an additional 12 hours on a dry-
ing board. It is then sprinkled with salt and when this is dissolved it is again
salted and placed in the ripening cellar. Ripening requires 8 months.

HOLSTEIN HEALTH.

This is a cooked cheese made from sour skimmed milk, the local name being
Holsteiner Gesundheits Kiise. The milk is heated lightly and the curd is
strongly pressed; it is then well mixed and put in a tin kettle. A little cream
and salt are added and the whole is stirred while it is being heated to the
melting temperature over a fire. It is then put into a hoop or mold which
holds about one-half pound and is allowed to cool.

30 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

HOLSTEIN SKIM-MILK.

As the name indicates, this is a skim-milk cheese made in the Province of
Holstein, where it is known as Holsteiner Magerkiise. Usually in the manu-
facture of this cheese 6 per cent of buttermilk is added to separator skim milk.
A part is heated to 160° F. and the remainder is mixed with the pasteurized
portion. The milk is colored with saffron, and rennet powder is used for
coagulating the casein, which requires about 35 minutes. The curd is then
broken up and allowed to remain in the whey for 30 minutes without stirring.
A cloth is then used for lifting the curd from the whey, and 1 per cent of salt
is mixed in. The curd is pressed for one-half hour, when it is turned and
pressure again applied. The pressure is gradually increased from 5 pounds
to 9 pounds for each pound of cheese. The cheese is transferred to the curing
cellar, which has a temperature of 60°. It is here turned daily until ripened,
which requires 4 months. Each cheese weighs from 12 to 14 pounds.

HOP.

Hop or Hopfen cheese is a German product. The ground curd is salted and
allowed to ripen for 3 or 4 days, when it is mixed with fresh curd and molded
into small cheeses measuring about 24 inches in diameter and 1 inch in thick-
ness. These are placed in a well-ventilated room and allowed to become quite
dry, when they are packed in hops.

HVID GJEDEOST.

This is a goat’s:milk cheese made in Norway. The milk is set at 70° F.
or higher. The curd is broken up and is cooked in the usual manner. It is
then pressed in forms 9 to 10 inches long, 6 inches broad, and 4 inches high.
The cheese is made only for local consumption.

ILHA.

Iiha is a Portuguese word meaning island, and is applied to the cow’s milk
cheeses made in the Azore Islands and imported quite extensively into Portugal.
They are moderately firm cheeses measuring 10 to 12 inches in diameter and
about 4 inches in thickness.

INCANESTRATO.

This name is applied to cheese made in Sicily. The mixture of evening’s and
morning’s milk is curdled with rennet in about three-fourths of an hour. The
curd is then stirred thoroughly and 2 per cent of water is added. After stand-
ing for 5 minutes the curd is separated from the whey, pressed by hand, and
sometimes allowed to ferment for 2 to 3 days, when it is cooked in whey and then
pressed and salted. Various spices are added. A kind known as Majocchino and
made in the region of Messina, out of cow’s, goat’s, and sheep’s milk, contains
olive oil.

ISIGNY.

This is an American cheese originating about 30 years ago in attempts to
inake Camembert cheese in this country. The proper ripening for Camembert
cheese was not secured and hence a distinct name was given to the product.
The cheese is slightly larger than Camembert but of the same shape. The
ripened product bears a close resemblance to Limburg. The process of manu-
facture is similar to that of Camembert. During ripening, however, the cheese
is washed and rubbed occasionally to check the growth of molds on the surface.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. ou

JACK.

Jack cheese was first made in Monterey County, Cal., about 25 years ago and
was first called Monterey cheese. Its manufacture under this name is still
limited to that State, but its method of manufacture agrees closely with the
granular curd method for Cheddar cheese. Morning’s and evening’s milk is
mixed and warmed in a vat from 86° to 88° F. and rennet extract added at the
rate of 6 to 8 ounces per 13000 pounds of milk. No coloring matter is used. It
is ready for the curd knife in about half an hour, its readiness being determined
as in Cheddar cheese. The cutting is done with a curd knife, the product then
being stirred by hand and by rake. The curd is heated from 98° in winter to
105° to 110° in summer. After the temperature is up it is stirred occasionally
with the rake until the whey is drawn at 0.14 to 0.15 per cent acidity. The curd
is then stirred thoroughly to keep from matting and is salted at the rate of 14
pounds to 100 pounds of curd, the whole being thoroughly stirred. During the
salting process cold water is run under the vat, the hot water having been
previously run off.

The curd is put into press cloths at a temperature of 80° to 85° F., no hoops
being used. One gallon of curd is put into each cloth, making a cheese weighing
64 pounds. The corners of the cloth are caught up tight, the cheese being
pressed and rolled with the other hand. ‘These are then pressed over night and
placed in the curing rooms for 3 weeks before being ready to ship.

JOCHBERG.

This cheese is made from a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk in the Tyrol.
The cheese weighs 45 pounds and is 20 inches in diameter and 4 inches high.

JOSEPHINE.

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from whole cow’s milk in Silesia. It
is put up in small cylindrical packages.

KAJMAK.

The Turkish word Kajmak signifies cream and is used to designate a product
made in Servia and sometimes known as Servian butter. This product is, how-
ever, analogous to a cream cheese. The milk is boiled and put into large
shallow vessels usually made of wood, and allowed to stand for 12 hours, when
the cream is removed and usually salted. The flavor varies greatly with the
age of the sample and is said to be between that of a goat’s-milk cheese and

Roquefort.
KASCAVAL.

This is a loaf-shaped rennet cheese weighing from 4 to 6 pounds, made from
sheep’s milk in Bulgaria, Roumania, and Transylvania. Goat’s milk is some-
times added. Considerable quantities of the cheese are exported.

KATSCHKAWAILJ.

This is a sheep’s milk cheese made in Servia. The milk is curdled with ren-
net and the curd is drained and inclosed in tin cans which are put into boiling
water. The curd is subsequently worked by hand and molded into various
shapes. A cheese weighs ordinarily about 6 pounds.

KJARSGAARD.

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow’s milk.

3 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

KLOSTER.

This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk. It
has a somewhat unusual shape, 1 by 1 by 4 inches, and weighs less than one-
fourth pound.

KOLOS-MONOSTOR.

This is a sheep’s-milk rennet cheese made in the agricultural school in
Transylvania. The cheese is rectangular in shape, 84 by 5 by 8 inches, and
weighs 4 pounds.

KOPPEN.

Koppenkiise is a goat’s-milk cheese made in Germany. The milk is set at
80° to 85° F., and after the whey has been dipped off the curd is put into a cup-
shaped vessel which gives form to the cheese and also the name. The cheese is
placed in a warm room and sprinkled with salt. It is allowed to dry for from 2
to 3 days and is then placed in the ripening room. The ripened cheese weighs
from 3 to 4 ounces. It has a sharp, pungent, slightly smoky flavor.

KOSHER.

This cheese under various names is made in several countries. It is a cow’s-
milk rennet cheese made for the Jewish trade. The process of manufacture
resembles that of Limburg. The cheese, however, is eaten fresh.

KOSHER GOUDA.

This is a cheese made especially for the Jewish trade. It is identical with a
Gouda cheese in every way except in size und in having no bladder covering.
It weighs from 4 to 6 pounds and is 84 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick.
It bears a stamp which identifies it to the Jewish consumer. Small quantities
are imported into this country.

KRUTT.

Krutt, or Kirgischerkiise, is made by the nomadic tribes of the middle Asiatic
Steppes from sour skim milk of the cow, goat, sheep, or camel. When the milk
coagulates salt is added and the curd is hung up in a sack to drain, after which
it is subjected to moderate pressure. The curd is then made up into small balls
which are placed in the sun to dry.

KUHBACH.

This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed
cow’s milk. It is a German product, made in upper Bavaria. It is cylindrical
in shape, weighs 2 pounds, and is 6 inches in diameter and 3 inches high.

LAGUIOLE.

This is a hard rennet cheese varying but little if any from Cantal and re-
sembling Roquefort. It derives its name from the village of Laguiole in the
Department of Aveyron, France. The cheese is made extensively in the moun-
tains of Aubrac, where it is said to have been made at the time of the Roman
occupation. The milk, either whole or partly skimmed, is set with rennet, the
time allowed being about 30 minutes. The curd is allowed to ferment for about
24 hours and is then put into hoops and pressed. At least 1 month is required
for ripening. Laguiole or Guiole cheese is considered superior to Cantal,
although the two varieties are made in essentially the same way.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 33

LANCASHIRE.

This is an English cheese named from the county in which it is made. The
evening’s milk is partly skimmed and is heated, so that when the morning’s
milk is added the temperature of the whole is brought to 80° F., or slightly
higher. Enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in 1 hour. The curd is
broken up, stirred for a short time, and pressed on the bottom of the vat by
means of a heavy sieve. The whey is soon drained off and the curd is ground
in a curd mill into particles the size of kernels of corn and then put into the
press. Salting is done in brine, in which the cheese is placed for 4 to 6 days.
From the brine tank the cheese is transferred to the curing room,

LANGRES.

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the northeastern part of France. It
derives its name from the village of Langres in the Department of Haute-Marne,
where it is said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings.
The perfectly fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 90° to
95° F. After standing for several hours it is put into cylindrical forms. The
cheeses ripen for about 2 to 3 months. A ripened cheese weighs from 14 to 2
pounds and is about 5 inches in diameter and 8 inches high. The cheese is
consumed for the most part in the region where made.

LAPLAND.

The Laplanders make a variety of cheese from the milk of the reindeer. It
resembles very much the harder varieties of the Emmental group. The cheese
has a very unusual shape. It is round and flat and is so formed that a cross
section would resemble a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends.

LATTICINI.

This is applied to cheeses made from the milk of buffaloes, particularly in the
region of Naples, but also in other parts of Italy.

LEATHER.

Leather, Leder, or Holstein dairy cheese is made in Schleswig-Holstein, from
skimmed cow’s milk with an addition of from 5 to 10 per cent of buttermilk.

The milk is set at from 95° to 100° F. and requires 25 to 35 minutes for
coagulation. It is then broken up with a harp or a stirring stick, and is stirred
with a Danish stirrer. When the particles are reduced to the size of peas the
curd is piled up on one side of the vat or kettle and allowed to stand for 10
minutes. The whey is then dipped off. The curd is cut with a knife into pieces
the size of the hand, put in a wooden or tin bowl, and pressed for one-half hour,
when it is cut into pieces and run through a cheese mill. It is then salted, put
in a cloth, and again put in the press, where the pressure is gradually increased.
The cheese is turned occasionally and a fresh dry cloth supplied. After 12
hours of pressing the cheese is put into the salt bath, where it is kept 40 to 48
hours. It is then transferred to the ripening cellar, where it is wiped with a
dry cloth every day for about a week and thereafter twice a week, the ripening
requiring about 4 months. The cured cheese has small eyes; it is made cylin-
drical, and is 4 to 6 inches in height and 10 to 12 inches in diameter. It weighs
15 to 25 pounds.

10415°—Bull 146—Mm——3

34 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

LEICESTER.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow’s milk. It is named from
a county in England where it is made. It resembles the better known Cheshire
and Cheddar in every way.

Evening’s and morning’s milk are mixed and set at a temperature of from
76° to 84° F. The curd is allowed to set very firm, which requires 90 minutes.
It is cut very carefully and allowed to settle 20 minutes, when the whey is
drawn off. The curd is then gathered in a cloth, pressed, and broken up several
times until a certain degree of dryness has been attained, and then salted
lightly and put to press. Pressure is continued for 5 days, the cheese being
removed and salted on the outside each day.

LEYDEN.

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Holland, where it is known also as
Bergues, Delft, Komynde, Koejekaars, and Hobbe. The milk, which is either
partly or entirely skimmed, is set with rennet at 72° to 75° F. It is allowed
to stand for 1 hour, when the curd is cut and then stirred while being warmed
up to 97°. The heating is done by pouring hot whey over the curd, The curd
is then dipped out with a cloth and kneaded by hand. Caraway seed is added
to a portion of the curd which, in filling the hoops, constitutes the middle of
three layers. The cheese is then put in press. It is turned after 3 hours and
a fresh cloth applied. The pressing continues for 24 hours. Salting is done
on the surface daily. If the rind becomes hard it is washed in whey or water,
and occasionally milk is smeared on the surface. The surface is colored with
litmus in alkaline water. A ripened cheese weighs about 25 pounds and is 12
inches in diameter and 33 to 5 inches in thickness. As seen on the American
market, it has a very dark-brown surface.

LIMBURG.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk which may contain all of
the fat or be partly or entirely skimmed. The best Limburg is undoubtedly
made from whole milk. This cheese has a very strong and characteristic odor
and taste. The cheese is about 6 by 6 by 3 inches and weighs about 2 pounds,

The most common synonyms of Limburg are Backstein and Hervé. There
are, however, many local names for this kind of cheese, such as Algau, Lanark,
Marianhof, Morin, St. Michels, Schiitzen, Tanzenberg, Carinthian, Grottenhof,
Emmersdorf, Briol, and Lindenhof.

Limburg cheese originated in the Province of Liittich, Belgium, in the neigh-
borhood of Hervé, and was marketed in Limburg, Belgium. Its manufacture
has spread to Germany and Austria, where it is very popular, and to the United
States, where large quantities are made, mostly in New York and Wisconsin.

Sweet milk is set without any coloring matter at a temperature of from 91°
to 96° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate the milk in about 40 minutes. In
foreign countries a kettle is used, but in the United States an ordinary rectangu-
lar cheese vat is found to be more satisfactory. The curd is cut or broken into
pieces about one-third-inch cube and is stirred for a short time without addi-
tional heating. It is then dipped into rectangular forms 28 inches long, 53 inches
broad, and about 8 inches deep. These forms are kept on a draining board,
where the whey drains out freely. When the cheese has been in the forms, with
frequent turnings, for a sufficient length of time to retain its shape it is removed
to the salting table, where the surface is rubbed with salt daily. When the
surface of the cheese commences to get slippery, the cheese is put in a ripening

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 35

cellar having a temperature of about 60°. While in the cellar the surface of
each cheese is rubbed thoroughly at frequent intervals. Ripening requires 1 to
2 months. When ripe the cheese is wrapped in paper, and then in tin foil, and
put in boxes, each containing about 50 cheeses.

No Limburg is imported into this country at the present time, contrary to
the popular belief. This type of cheese is made so cheaply and of such good
quality in this country that the foreign make has been crowded out of the
market.

LIPTAU.

This cheese is made in the Provinces of Liptau, Saros, and Arva, in Hungary,
from sheep’s milk. Condiments, especially red pepper, are usually added. It is
rather greasy and has a sharp taste. The details of manufacture are the same
as for Brinsen cheese.

LIVAROT.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk more or less skimmed. It
derives its name from the village of Livarot in the Department of Calvados,
France, where the industry is centralized. This cheese has the advantage over
Camembert made in the same region in that it may be manufactured and con-
sumed during the warm months.

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 95° to 104° F. After 14 to
2 hours the curd is cut and placed on a rush mat or a cloth and allowed to
drain for about 15 minutes, during which time it is crumbled as finely as
possible. It is then put into tin hoops or forms 6 inches in diameter and the
same in height. The cheeses are turned very frequently until they become firm,
when they are salted and left on the draining board for 4 or 5 days. At this
stage they are sometimes sold as white cheese, but more often they are trans-
ferred to a well-ventilated room for 15 to 20 days and then to the curing cellar,
which is kept very tightly closed. By thus retaining the ammonia and other
products the cheese acquires a strong, piquant taste. During ripening the
cheeses are turned two or three times a week and occasionally wiped with a
cloth moistened with salt water. After ripening for 10 to 12 days they are
wrapped with the leaves of Typha latifolia, commonly called laiche. In 8 to 5
months they are colored with annatto and marketed.

LORRAINE.

This is a Small sour-milk hand cheese made in Lorraine, Germany, and regarded
as a delicacy in that country. It is seasoned with pepper, salt, and pistachio
nuts, and is eaten in a comparatively fresh state. The cheeses are made in
sizes of about 2 ounces and sell for a very high price—at the rate of about 50
cents a pound.

LUNEBERG.

This cheese is made in the small valleys of the Voralberg Mountains in the
western part of Austria. The art of cheese making in this locality was
imported from Switzerland, and the copper kettle and characteristic presses are
used. Saffron is used for coloring, and the milk is warmed in the copper kettle
to 87° to 90° F., at which temperature the rennet is added, enough being used
to coagulate the milk in 20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size
of hazelnuts and is cooked with stirring to a temperature of 122°. The curd
is dipped into cloths which are put into wooden forms and light pressure is
applied. The curd remains in the press for 24 hours, during which time it is

36 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

turned occasionally and a dry cloth supplied. The cheese is then taken to the
cellar and is salted on the surface. In the cellar it is rubbed and washed
occasionally. When ripe it is said to be about midway in type between Emmen-
tal and Limburg.

MACONNAIS.
This is a French goat’s-milk cheese, 2 inches square by 14 inches thick.
MACQUELINE.

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Camembert type, 4 inches in diameter and

+ inches thick, made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the region of
Senlis, in the Department of Oise, France. The milk is set with rennet at a
temperature of about 80° F. and allowed to stand for 5 hours, when the curd
is put into hoops. After 24 hours the hoops are removed and the cheese is
salted and taken to the curing room, where it remains for 20 days or more. A
cheese weighs about one-fourth of a pound and requires about 2 liters of milk
in its manufacture. The cheese sells at a lower price than Camembert, made
in the same region.

MAIKASE.

This is a cheese resembling Gouda. It is made in Holland in the early sum-
mer, is softer than the regular Gouda, and hence can be marketed at an earlier

period.
MAINZ HAND.

This is a typical hand cheese, sometimes called Pimp. The milk is treated in
the usual way, and the curd after cooling is thoroughly kneaded by hand, the
thoroughness of this manipulation influencing the quality of the cheese. The
curd is then pressed by hand into flat cakes and allowed to dry for a week.
They are then packed in a jar or keg and placed in a cellar for ripening. This
requires from 6 to 8 weeks.

MALAKOFF.

This is another form of Neufchatel cheese about 2 inches in diameter and
one-half of an inch in thickness. It may be consumed either while fresh or
after ripening.

MANUR.

This cheese is made in Servia from either sheep’s or cow’s milk. The milk is
first heated to the boiling temperature and then cooled until the fingers can be
held in it. A mixture of buttermilk and fresh whey with rennet is added.
The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is
kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and dried.

MAQUEE.

This is a soft rennet brick-shaped cheese made from cow’s milk in Belgium.
It is known where made as Fromage Mou.

MARKISCH HAND.

This cheese is similar to a hand cheese. The milk is treated in the same
way as in hand cheese up to the salting. The curd is then put in a linen sack
and heavy pressure is applied. The mass is then cut into oblong pieces and
allowed to dry and cure as regular hand cheese.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. ot

MAROILLES.

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont ’Evéque type made from whole or
partly skimmed cow’s milk in the Departments of Aisne and Nord, France.
There are several kinds, varying in size, shape, and details of manufacture, of
which the Tuile de Flandre and Larron are best known. The cheese as made
at Maroilles is about 6 inches square and 2 inches thick; that made at Saint
Aubin, 5 inches square and 3 inches thick. The Larron is about 2} inches
square and 1% inches thick, and weighs about 6 ounces. The Tuile de Flandre
is about twice as large. The Dauphin is semilunar in shape and contains herbs.
A pear-shaped form designated Boulette may be made in part from buttermilk.

The best cheese is made from fresh whole milk, although the most of it is
made from milk partly or entirely skimmed. The temperature of setting with
rennet is about 75° F. and the time allowed from 1 to 4 hours. The curd is
drained for 1 to 2 hours in a box having a perforated bottom, and is then put
into square forms or hoops 5 to 6 inches on a side and 3 to 4 inches high.
The cheese is turned frequently until firm and then salted on all six faces and
taken to the curing cellar, where it is washed frequently with salt water to
prevent the growth of molds. Ripening requires 3 to 5 months. Defective
cheeses are said to be common.

MASCARPONE.

This is an Italian cream cheese about 2 inches in diameter and 23 inches in
height. The cream is heated to about 194° F. and dilute acetic or tartaric acid
is added. The mixture is stirred and drained through cloth and then put into
molds. It is eaten in a fresh condition.

MECKLENBURG SKIM.

This is a rennet cheese made from skim milk and named from the province in
which itis made. The milk is placed in a copper kettle and warmed with steam.
Saffron is added for coloring and sufficient rennet is used to coagulate the milk
in 80 minutes. The curd is broken up into particles the size of peas. The tem-
perature is raised to 92° F. in 12 minutes. The curd is then removed from the
kettle by means of a cloth and put into a hoop and pressure applied. This is
increased gradually until it reaches fifteen times the weight of the cheese in 24
hours. The cheese is then placed in a drying room held at 70° until a rind is
formed. As much salt is then sprinkled on the surface as can be absorbed. In
the meanwhile the cheese is taken from the drying room and placed in the reg-
ular curing room, which has a temperature of 60° and a relative humidity of
85 to 95 per cent.

MIGNOT.

This is a soft rennet cheese either cylindrical or cubical in form. It has been
made in the Department of Calvados, France, for over 100 years and
resembles Pont l’Eyéque and Livarot. There are two types of this cheese;
designated white and passé; the first, a fresh cheese, is made during the period
from April to September, and the second, a ripened cheese, is made during the
remainder of the year.

MONTASIO.

This cheese originated in the part of Carinthia, in Austria, called Friaul,
where the annual product is now valued at $600,000. At the present time it is
made not only in Carinthia but in the neighboring provinces and in Italy.

88 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

The milk, either whole or partly skimmed, and consisting usually of a mix-
ture of cow’s and goat’s milk, is heated in a kettle to 95° F. and sufficient ren-
net is added to coagulate it in 30 to 40 minutes. It is then cut very carefully
to the size of peas and heated gradually to a temperature of 120°. When the
desired temperature is reached, which is usually in about one-half hour, heat-
ing is stopped and the stirring continued for 30 to 40 minutes. Some of the
whey is dipped from the kettle and the curd is removed by means of a cloth.
The cheese is pressed for 24 hours, during which time it is turned frequently.
The salting requires usually about one month, the total amount applied varying
from 23 to 8 per cent of the weight of the pressed cheese. After salting, the
cheese is taken to a well-ventilated room and allowed to dry. In this room the
cheese is turned frequently and rubbed in order to free it from molds. When
dry it is scraped carefully and taken to the curing cellar. The cheese is here
rubbed frequently with a coarse cloth, and when the rind has become firm and
does not show the presence of mold, olive oil is usually applied. Sometimes the
rind is colored black by means of soot.

The fresh cheese is almost white. The old cheese becomes yellow, granular,
and has a sharp taste and characteristic odor. It is usually eaten when 3 to
12 months of age, but may be kept much longer and then grated.

MONTAVONER.

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Austria. During the process of manufac-
ture dried herbs (Achillea moschata and A. atrata) are added.

MONT CENIS.

This is a hard rennet cheese resembling the imitation Roquefort varieties like
Gex and Septmoncel and made in the region of Mont Cenis, in the southeastern
part of France. The milk used is usually a mixture of cow’s, sheep’s, and
goat’s. The evening’s milk is usually skimmed and added to that of the morn-
ing. Primitive methods of cheese making are employed. The milk is set with
rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. The curd is then cut and allowed to
drain for 24 hours, when fresh curd is thoroughly mixed with it. The mixture
is then put into molds and moderate pressure applied. After turning frequently
for several days, and salting, it is transferred to the curing cellar, where it is
turned frequently, washed -with salt water to check the growth of molds on the
surface, and allowed to ripen for 3 to 4 months. The ripening is due mainly to
a penicillium which is sometimes incorporated in the curd by means of moldy
bread. A ripened cheese is about 18 inches in diameter, 6 to 8 inches in height,
and weighs about 25 pounds.

MONT D’OR.

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont l’Evéque type, formerly made from
goat’s milk but now made almost exclusively from cow’s milk. Sometimes a
small amount of goat’s milk is added to the cow’s milk.

It derives its name from Mont d@’Or, near Lyon, in the Department of Rhone,
France, where it is said to have been made for over three centuries At the
present time it is made not only in Rhone and neighboring Departments but
in the other parts of France, especially Eure and Oise.

Whole or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90°
to 100° F. The curd, in from one-half hour to 2 hours after the addition of
the rennet to the milk and with or without cutting, is put into circular forms
or hoops about 4% inches in diameter and 8 inches high. These rest upon a

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 39

draining board covered with straw. After about 1 hour the cheese is turned,
and frequently thereafter until firm. A disk with a light weight is sometimes
placed upon each cheese in order to hasten the removal of the whey. The
cheese is salted on the surface. Much of it is sold in a fresh condition. It is
also ripened for about one week in summer and 2 to 3 weeks in winter, during
which time it is turned frequently and washed with salt water to prevent the
growth of molds.
MONTHLERY.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in Seine-et-Oise, France.
A large cheese is about 2 inches thick and 14 inches in diameter and weighs
about 53 pounds. There is also a smaller sized cheese which weighs about 3
pounds. Wither whole milk or partly skimmed milk is used. Rennet is added
to the milk at ordinary temperatures, and the curd when sufficiently firm is
broken up, put into molds, and subjected to pressure. After salting the cheese
is cured for 8 to 15 days in a so-called drying room and then ripened in a
cellar at a temperature of about 55° F. During ripening the cheese becomes
covered at first with a whitish mold and later with a blue mold in which red
spots appear. It is ready for sale at the end of about 1 month.

MOZARINELLI.
This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in Italy.
MUNSTER.

Miinster is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk in the western
part of Germany, near the Vosges Mountains, and named from the city of
Miinster, near which it is made. Similar cheese made in the neighboring por-
tion of France is called Géromé, and Miinster cheese made near Colmar and
Strassburg is sometimes given the names of these two cities.

The milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 30
minutes. The curd is then broken up and allowed to stand for 30 to 45 minutes
without stirring, when it is dipped with a sieve which holds back the small
particles of curd and gives a slight pressure to the curd. After removing the
whey the curd is scooped into forms or hoops and caraway or anise seed is
usually added. The hoops are made in two parts, the lower of which is 4
inches high and 7 inches in diameter with holes in the bottom for draining, and
the upper of which is of the same dimensions. The whole resembles an ordi-
nary cheese hoop with bandages. The hoop is lined with cheese cloth. After
the curd has been in the hoop for 12 hours the upper part of the hoop can be
removed. The cheese is turned and the cloth removed. The cheese is now put
in the upper portion of the hoop and turned frequently for 4 to 6 days. The
temperature is held in the meanwhile at 68°. After salt has been rubbed on
the surface daily for 3 days the cheese is taken to the cellar, which has a tem-
perature of 51° to 55°, where it is allowed to ripen for 2 to 3 months. The
cheese sells for about 15 cents a pound when ripe.

MYSOST.

Mysost is made from whey and is a product of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark,
and to a very limited extent of the United States. It has a light-brown color, a
buttery consistency, and a mild, sweetish taste.

The method of manufacture is as follows: AS soon as the curd of the regular
cheese is removed from the whey, the whey is strained and is put in a kettle or
large pan over the fire and the albuminous material which rises to the surface

40 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

is skimmed off. The whey is evaporated as rapidly as possible with constant
and thorough stirring. When it has reached about one-fourth its original
volume the albumin previously skimmed off is returned and stirred thoroughly
to break up all possible lumps. When the whey has attained the consistency of
thickened milk it is poured quickly into a wooden trough and stirred with a
paddle until cool to prevent the formation of sugar crystals. This can then be
molded into the desired form. In this country it is usually made into cylin-
drical shapes and wrapped in tin foil. Prumost is a local name for this cheese.

NESSEL.

This is a soft-cured rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk. It is an
English product and is made round and very thin.

NEUFCHATEL.

This is a soft rennet cheese made extensively in the Department of Seine-
Inférieure, France, from cow’s milk either whole or skimmed. Bondon, Mala-
koff, Petit Carré, and Petit Suisse are essentially the same as Neufchatel, but
have slightly different shapes.

The milk, preferably fresh, is set at 85° F. with only so much rennet as is
necessary to secure the desired coagulation in 24 hours in summer and from
36 to 48 hours in winter. The curd is then inclosed in cheese cloth and drained
for 12 hours, after which it is subjected to pressure for another period of 12
hours. It is then thoroughly kneaded by hand or, in the larger factories, by
means of a curd mill and pressed into thin cylinders about 2 inches in diameter
and 3 inches high. The cheeses are removed soon from the molds, salted, and
replaced. After draining for 24 hours they are transferred to the so-called dry-
ing room, where they become covered with white and later with blue molds.
They are then taken to the curing cellar, where the ripening process is con-
tinued for 3 to 4 weeks. The appearance of red spots on the surface is taken
as an indication that the ripening has progressed far enough. The cheeses are
then wrapped in tin foil and marketed.

An imitation of the Neufchatel cheese is made in the United States which is
very probably as good as the French variety. Makers in this country have
attempted to vary this cheese by the use of condiments. Pimento, or Pepper
Cream, is a Neufchatel cheese in which 1 pound of red peppers is used for
every 10 pounds of cheese. The peppers are ground very fine and thoroughly
mixed with the cheese; the whole is then molded into forms and kept in a
cold place.

NEW MILK.

This cheese is made in Holland. The process of manufacture resembles that
of Gouda cheese. It is made only in limited quantities at the beginning of the
summer season and is eaten fresh.

NIEHEIM.

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Westphalia and named from a city in that
province. The sour milk is heated to a temperature of 100° to 120° F. The
curd is collected in a cloth and allowed to stand for 24 hours, when it is worked
until in a fine condition. The curd is made up into cakes which are put into a
cellar and turned frequently for 5 to 8 days. It is then broken up, and salt and
caraway seed, and sometimes beer or milk, are added. The cheese is covered
lightly with straw and finally packed in casks with hops and allowed to ripen.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. Al

NOSTRALE.

This name is applied locally to two kinds of rennet cheese made from cow’s
milk in the mountainous regions of northwestern Italy. The hard cheese, des-
ignated Formaggio Duro, is made during the spring while the herds are still
in the valleys, and the soft cheese, Formaggio Tenero, during the summer when
they are pastured in the mountains. The cheese is said to be a very old variety
and the methods of manufacture to have remained primitive. <A cheese desig-
nated Raschera, made in the region of Mondovi, is probably the same as
Nostrale.

OLIVET.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. The manufacture of this
variety originated south of Orleans, in the Department of Loiret, France. The
industry is now carried on north of Orleans near Olivet, to which place the
cheese doubtless owes its name. There are.three forms of this cheese, desig-
nated white or summer cheese, blue or the ordinary half-ripened form, and
ripened. In general the process of manufacture resembles that of Camembert.
The ordinary form is made from either whole milk or partly skimmed milk.
About 2 hours after the addition of rennet the curd is placed in a receptacle
having holes in the bottom and sides and allowed to drain for 24 hours, when
it is put into forms about 6 inches in diameter. The cheese is turned and
salted the next day, and about 1 day later is taken to the first curing room,
where it is placed on shelves covered with straw. This room is kept at a tem-
perature of about 65° F. Here the cheese becomes red in a few days and later
blue. The blue color is a sign of maturity, and its appearance requires from 10
to 15 days in summer and 1 month in winter. The cheese is then ready for
marketing. When properly cared for it may remain in good condition for sey-
eral months. The form designated ripened is made in the same way until the
blue color appears, when the cheese is put into the curing cellar, where ripening
is carried to a much further extent. Ordinarily this requires from 15 to 30
days, but the cheese is here sometimes covered with ashes, which are believed
to hasten the ripening process. The form designated white or summer cheese
is made from whole milk, to which cream is sometimes added. The curd Is
obtained in the ordinary manner and pressed into molds, in which it is sold
as fresh cheese, summer cheese, white cheese, or cream cheese.

OLMUTZER QUARGEL.

This is a hand cheese made extensively in the western part of Austria. It
is 13 inches in diameter and one-third of an inch thick and contains caraway
seed. It is made with 5 per cent of salt and after drying is put in salt whey

for a time. It is then packed in kegs and ripened for 8 to 10 weeks. In all
other respects the manufacture is identical with that of hand cheese.

PAGLIA.

This is a more or less successful imitation of Gorgonzola cheese, made in the
Canton of Ticino, Switzerland. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches in
thickness. The milk is set at a temperature of 100° F., the time allowed being
about 15 minutes. The curd is broken up, stirred, and put into hoops. When
sufficiently drained the cheese is taken to a cool cellar and placed on straw,
where fermentation is usually very rapid and marked. The process is delayed
to some extent by excessive salting, which is continued for about 1 month.
The cheese is very soft in consistency and has a pleasant aromatic flavor.

42 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

PAGO.

This is a renmet cheese made from sheep’s milk in the island of Pago, in the
Province of Dalmatia, Austria. It is put up in sizes weighing from one-half to
8 pounds.

PARMESAN.

This name is in common use outside of Italy for the cheese made and known
in that country for centuries as Grana, the term “ grana” or “ granona ” referring
to the granular appearance of the cheese when broken, as is necessary on account
of the hardness of the cheese, which makes cutting practically impossible.
There are two quite distinct kinds of this cheese, one made in Lombardy and the
other in Emilia, the centers of production being separated by the River Po.
Parma, situated in Emilia, has long been an important commercial center for
both kinds, and to this fact the name Parmesan is due. The use of the term
“Parmesan,” however, is sometimes restricted to the cheese made in Lombardy,
the term “ Reggian ” being used to designate that madein Emilia. Italian writers
refer usually to the Lombardy cheese as Cacio or Formaggio Grana Lodigiano,
Lodi being an important center of trade, and to the Emilian cheese as Grana
Parmigiano or Reggiano. The Lodi cheese is larger and made from a poorer
quality of milk than the Reggian. The latter is colored and brings a much
higher price. The following description of the process of manufacture applies
equally well to both kinds:

The milk, which has been skimmed to a greater or less extent, is heated in
copper kettles to a temperature varying, according to the acidity of the milk,
from 90° to 100° F. The kettle is then removed from the fire, rennet added,
and the kettle covered and allowed to stand for 20 minutes to 1 hour, when the
curd is cut very fine and cooked, with stirring, to 115° to 125° F. for 15 to 45
minutes. The curd is removed from the kettle by means of a cloth and after
draining for a short time is put into hoops. These are about 10 inches high and
18 inches or more in diameter and are lined with coarse cloth before filling.
Pressure is then applied for 24 hours, the cheese being turned frequently and
the cloths changed. The salting, which is begun in 1 to 8 days after remoy-
ing from the press, is continued for a considerable length of time, often 40
days. The cheeses are then transferred to a cool, well-ventilated room, where
they may be stored for years, the surface being rubbed with oil from time to
time. The exterior of the cheese is dark green or black, due to coloring matter
rubbed on the surface. A greenish color in the interior has been attributed to
the contamination with copper from the vessels in which the milk is allowed to
stand before skimming.

The Lombardy cheese made from April to September is known locally as Sorte
Maggenga and that from October to March as Sorte Vermenga. The Reggian
cheese is made only in summer.

Parmesan cheese when well made may be broken and grated easily and may
be kept for an indefinite number of years. It is grated and used largely for
soups and with macaroni. <A considerable quantity of this cheese is imported
into this country and sells for a very high price.

PECORINO.

The Formaggio Pecorini are the sheep’s-milk cheeses made in Italy and of
which there are numerous more or less clearly defined kinds. The most com-
mon cheese of this sort is the one designated Cacio Pecorino Romano, or
merely Romano. This varies considerably in size and shape. The weight may

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 43

range from 2 to 25 pounds. A cheese of ordinary size is about 10 inches in
diameter and 6 inches in thickness. The interior is. slightly greenish in color,
somewhat granular, and devoid of eyes or holes. In making Romano cheese
the milk is heated to 100° F. and coagulated by rennet in 15 minutes. The curd
is cut, cooked to 120°, stirred, and put into forms and allowed to drain. Salt-
ing is done both by immersion in brine and by rubbing salt on the surface. As
much as 7 to 8 per cent of salt is usually incorporated in the course of one
month. This process is sometimes facilitated by punching several holes in the
cheese. Ripening is usually done at a temperature of 60° to 70° and requires 8
months or longer.

The Pecorino Dolce is artificially colored with annatto and subjected to con-
siderable pressure in the process of manufacture.

Pecorino Tuscano is a smaller cheese than the Romano, measuring usually 6
inches in diameter and 2 to 4 inches in thickness and weighing 2 to 5 pounds.

Among the sheep’s-milk cheeses bearing local names are the following: An-
cona, Cotrone, Iglesias, Leonessa, Puglia, and Viterbo. In the manufacture of
Viterbo cheese the milk is curdled by means of a wild artichoke, Cynara
scolymus.

PFISTER.

This cheese is classed in the Emmental group, though its method of manu-
facture differs materially. It is made from fresh skimmed cow’s milk. It takes
its name from Pfister Huber, in Cham, Switzerland, who evidently was the first
to manufacture it.

The milk is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 30 minutes.
The curd is cut coarse and allowed to stand for 15 minutes when the whey is
dipped off. The curd is again stirred for 5 minutes, care being taken that the
temperature does not fall below the setting point. The curd is again allowed
to stand for 5 minutes, when it is taken from the kettle in a cloth and put in a
hoop, where it is pressed for 24 hours, being turned occasionally and dry cloths
substituted. The cheese is transferred from the press to the salt bath, where
it remains for 3 days. It is then taken to a moist room having a temperature
of 85°. Here it is placed on shelves and turned and salted occasionally. The
cheese is ready for market at about 6 weeks of age. It is drum-shaped, like a
characteristic Emmental, but not so large, weighing about 50 pounds.

PHILADELPHIA CREAM.

This is an ordinary cream cheese put up by a firm in New York State. It is
3 by 23 by 14 inches in size and is wrapped in parchment paper and tin foil.

PINEAPPLE.

This cheese, which is said to have had its origin in Litchfield County, Conn.,
about 1845, is so named from the fruit of that name which the cheese is made to
resemble in shape. It isa hard rennet cheese made from whole cow’s milk. The
cheese is quite hard and is rather highly colored. The early process of manu-
facture is the same as with Cheddar, except that it is cooked much harder. The
curd is pressed in the desired shape in various sizes up to 6 pounds in weight.
After pressing, the cheese is dipped for a few minutes in water at 120° F. and
is then put in a net for 24 hours, which gives it the diamond-shaped corruga-
tions on the surface. It requires several months to ripen, and during this
time the surface is rubbed with oil, which makes it very smooth and hard.

44 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

PONT L’EVEQUE.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. Three grades are recog-
nized, depending upon the quality of the milk used. A Pont l’Evéque cheese
is about 44 inches square and 14 inches thick.

This cheese was made in the thirteenth century in the valley of Auge, from
which it derived its earlier name Augelot, and by corruption Angelot. The
principal seat of the industry at the present time is Pont l’Evéque and vicinity,
in the Department of Calvados, France. The manufacture of this cheese is of
considerable importance in the region designated. The milk used may be either
whole milk with or without the addition of cream, a mixture of whole and
skimmed milk, or milk entirely skimmed.

Coloring matter and warm or hot water are usually added to the milk before
setting with rennet, which is done at a temperature of about 95° F. After
standing for 15 to 30 minutes the curd is cut, removed to a draining board
for a few minutes, and then put into square forms or hoops. The cheese is
turned very frequently during the first half hour and five or six times more
during the remainder of the first day. It is salted the second or third day
and transferred to a well-ventilated room for several days. When sufficiently
dried it is taken to the curing cellar. During drying and ripening the cheeses
are turned every day and while in the cellar are washed frequently with salt
water. Ripening requires usually from 3 to 6 weeks.

PORT DU SALUT.

This is a rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. In many respects it is inter-
mediate between the soft and hard varieties. The rind is firm and resistant
but the interior is soft and homogenous, though it does not become semiliquid
like the interior of Brie cheese. This variety of cheese originated about 1865
in the Trappist Abbey, Port du Salut, situated about 6 miles from Laval, in the
Department of Mayenne, France. While the process is to some extent kept a
secret by the Trappists, very successful imitations are made outside of the
monasteries in this region.

The milk, either whole or partly skimmed and preferably slightly acid, is
heated to 90° to 95° F. and sufficient rennet added in order to secure the de-
sired firmness of the curd in about 30 minutes. Coloring matter is usually
added to the milk. The curd is cut very fine and in a manner similar to that
followed in making Emmental cheese. This requires about 20 minutes. A
part of the whey may then be removed. The curd is then stirred and may be
heated or cooked to a moderate degree. The final temperature reached in
cooking varies from 100° to 105°, depending upon the acidity of the milk. The
time required in stirring and heating is about 20 minutes. The curd is then
allowed to settle and the whey removed. After being stirred vigorously for
two to four minutes, the curd is put into molds which are of two sizes, the
smaller about 7 inches in diameter and the larger about 10 inches. A disk
is placed on the cheese and pressure applied by means of presses for 10 to 12
hours, the cheese being turned and the cloths frequently changed during this
time. The next day the hoops are removed and the cheese salted. After drying
for about 24 hours, it is transferred to the ripening cellar, where it remains
from 5 to 6 weeks. In this place a temperature of about 55° and a relative
humidity of 85° to 90° is preferred. During ripening the cheeses are turned
very frequently and washed with salt water, the frequency depending some-
what upon the rapidity with which molds develop. The cheese is often sold
before the ripening process is entirely complete.

¢
VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 45

POTATO.

This cheese is made in Thuringia, in the central part of Germany. Inthe manu-
facture of potato cheese, curd is made from sour cow’s milk, or in some cases
from renneted milk. Sometimes sheep’s or goat’s milk is used. The potatoes
are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the potatoes is thoroughly mixed
or. kneaded with two or three parts of the curd. In the better cheese three
parts of potatoes is mixed with two parts of curd. During the mixing salt is
added, and sometimes caraway seed. The cheese is allowed to stand for 2 to 4
days while a fermentation takes place. After this the curd is again thoroughly
kneaded and placed in forms for a day. It is then dried and is sometimes
covered with beer or cream. It is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen
for 14 days.

A variety of this cheese is made in the United States. It is probable, how-
ever, that this is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a period as the European
potato cheese. In all other essentials it appears to be identically the same.

POTTED.

This cheese is very likely of domestic origin. It is usually prepared from
well-ripened Cheddar cheese by grinding it very fine and mixing with butter,
condiments, spirits, etc. In the past this has been put up in small porcelain
jars, but at the present time a portion of it is wrapped in waxed paper and
either tin or lead foil. This ordinarily goes by the name of Club cheese.

PRATTIGAU.

This is made from skimmed cow’s milk and is so named from the valley of
Switzerland in which it is made. Its manufacture is the same as that of Lim-
burg. Cheeses weigh from 20 to 25 pounds.

PRESTOST.

Prestost is a product of Sweden, where it is often called Saaland Pfarr. It
is a rennet cheese made from fresh cow’s milk and resembles Gouda. It was
known in the eighteenth century. The milk is set at 90° F. and is allowed to
become very firm, when it is cut coarse with a wooden knife and poured into
a sieve, which allows the whey to drain off. The curd is then put into a cloth
and kneaded. Whisky is mixed with the curd, which is then packed in a basket,
and after some salt is sprinkled on the surface it is put into the cellar. The
cloth inclosing the cheese is changed daily for 3 days, after which the cheese is
washed with whisky. A cheese is cylindrical in shape and weighs 5 to 30
pounds.

PROVIDENCE.
This cheese is aboout 8 inches in diameter and 14 inches thick, and very

closely resembles Port du Salut. It is made in the monastery of Bricquebec in
the Department of Manche, France.

PROVOLE.

This is one of the most esteemed of the several kinds of hard rennet cheese
made in central and southern Italy from cow’s milk, including also that of buf-
faloes. The cheese is round or oval and weighs from 4 to 6 pounds. Smaller

A6 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. ,

sizes weighing about 2 pounds are known as Provoloni. In many respects, in-
cluding the cooking of the curd with hot water and the smoking of the cheese,
Provole and Provoloni resemble Caciocavallo. Considerable amounts of this
cheese are imported into the United States.

PULTOST.

Pultost, also called Knaost, is made usually from sour milk, but it may be
raade with rennet. It is a Norwegian product and is made in private dairies in
the mountains of that country. The milk is placed in a kettle and if not sour
enough to coagulate on warming the acidity is increased by the addition of
buttermilk. When sufficient acid has developed the milk is warmed to 113° F.
The curd is broken up with a scoop and stirred to keep it from matting together
while it is being heated to 140°. It is then dipped and ground up fine. Butter-
milk is added and the whole is thoroughly kneaded and put into troughs, where
it is covered with a cloth. It is allowed to stand for three days with occasional
stirring.

QUESO DE CINCHO.

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Venezuela and known also as Queso de
Palma Metida. It is exported in the form of balls 8 to 16 inches in diameter
and wrapped in palm leaves.

QUESO DE HOJA.

This is a Porto Rican cheese made from fresh cow’s milk. The curd is cut
into blocks about 6 inches square and 2 inches thick. After part of the whey
is drained off, which may require several hours, the pieces of curd are immersed
in water or whey having a temperature of 150° F. This gives a tough layer
to the block of curd, which is then removed to a table and pressed or stretched
by the use of a broad wooden spoon or paddle. Salt is sprinkled on the surface
and the piece of curd is folded and wrapped in a cloth and squeezed to force
out the moisture. The finished product is about 6 inches in diameter, 1 to 2
inches thick, and has slightly rounded top and bottom surfaces. When the
cheese is cut it appears to be in layers like leaves upon one another, hence the
name, signifying leaf cheese.

QUESO DE MANO.

This is a sour-milk cheese resembling a hand cheese, and is made in Vene-
zuela. It is 6 to 7 inches in diameter.

QUESO DE PRENSA.

This is a Porto Rican product, and is a hard rennet cheese made from un-
skimmed cow’s milk. The milk is allowed to stand six hours without cooling,
and rennet is then added. The curd is broken by hand or with a stick, and
after part of the whey is separated the curd is transferred to a table and is
broken into small pieces. It is then put in wooden frames, and salt is added
either as the curd goes into the frame or by sprinkling on top. Light pressure
is applied, either by hand or by means of a screw. After leaving the press the
cheese is placed on racks. It may be eaten fresh or allowed to stand for 2 to3
months. The cheeses are 11 inches long, 53 inches wide, and 3 inches thick,
and weigh about 5 pounds. The name signifies pressed cheese.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 47
QUESO DE PUNA.

This is a Porto Rican product, resembling very much the Cottage or Dutch
cheese of the United States. The milk is set with rennet and the curd is thor-
oughly mashed or kneaded by hand, salt being added at the same time. The
curd is put in a hoop 5 inches in diameter and 14 inches deep, where it remains
without pressure for 2 or 8 days, or until it will keep its form. The cheese is
eaten fresh.

RABACAL.

This is a round, rather firm cheese made from the milk of sheep and goats in
the vicinity of Coimbra, Portugal. A cheese is 4 to 5 inches in diameter and 1

inch thick.
RADEN.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in Mecklenburg. The
cheeses are 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches thick, and weigh 32 pounds.
The process of manufacture does not differ materially from that of Emmental.

RANGIPORT.

This cheese is in ‘every way analogous to Port du Salut. It is about 6 inches
in diameter and 24 inches thick and weighs about 24 pounds. It is made in the
Department of Seine-et-Oise, France.

RAYON.

This is a special type of Emmental cheese, made largely in the Canton of
Fribourg, Switzerland, for exportation to Italy, though some is now manu-
factured in Italy. It is made of partly skimmed milk, and the cooking is con-
tinued to a point that insures a very dry, hard cheese, which develops no eyes.
After curing it is shipped largely to Turin, where it is placed on edge on shelves
in a dry, warm cave, and the fat leaks out, leaving the cheese exceedingly dry
and hard, when it is used for grating. After the drying process the cheese is

ealled Raper.
REBBIOLA.

Rebbiola, or Robiola, is a soft cheese, made principally in the Alpine districts
of Italy. The process of manufacture is very simple. It is generally made
from milk skimmed after 12 hours, but whole milk is sometimes used. The
cheese is circular and weighs about 2 pounds. The ripening process is very
rapid, requiring usually 12 to 15 days. The milk is set at a temperature of
90° F., the time allowed being usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut
fine and put into molds 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches high, the bottom
being perforated. Five hours later the cheeses are removed from the molds
and placed on a draining board covered with straw. After 2 or 3 days they
are salted and then ripened.

REBLOCHON.

This is a soft French cheese, weighing 1 to 2 pounds. It is made from fresh
whole milk, which is curdled with rennet at a temperature of 80° F. or above,
the time allowed being about 30 minutes. The curd is cut to the size of peas,
cooked to about 95°, and after the removal of the whey is put into molds about
6 inches in diameter and 2 inches in height. A weight of about 5 pounds is

48 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

placed upon each cheese, which is turned frequently and salted after about
12 hours. In a moist room having a temperature of about 60° the desired
degree of ripening is secured in 4 to 5 weeks. An imitation of this cheese,
made in Savoy, France, is known as Brizecon.

REINDEER MILK.

In Norway and Sweden the milk of the reindeer is sometimes used for
cheesemaking. Rennet is added at 100° F., and the curd is cut and dipped
into a large frame, where it is pressed lightly. The mass of curd is then cut
into pieces 5 by 4 by 24 inches, which are salted on the surface and are allowed
to ripen in a dry curing room.

RIESENGEBIRGE.

This is a soft rennet cheese, made from goat’s milk in the mountains on the
northern border of Bohemia. The. milk is set at about 90° F. The curd is
broken up and the whey dipped off, after which the curd is put in forms, where
it remains in a warm place for 24 hours. It is then covered with salt and after
drying for 3 to 4 days is placed in the curing cellar. From each 100 pounds
of milk 18 pounds of cheese is secured.

RINNEN.

This is a sour-milk cheese which was known in the eighteenth century. It
is made in Pomerania from milk sufficiently acid to cause a precipitation of the
curd when it is warmed to about 90° F. The cheese derives its name from the
wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. The curd is broken up and heated
to expel the whey. The curd is kneaded by hand and caraway seed is added.
It is molded into forms and pressed. Salt is then rubbed on the outside. The
cheese is dried and put in a box to ripen.

ROLL.

This is a hard rennet cheese, made in England from unskimmed cow’s milk.
It is cylindrical in shape, 8 inches high by 9 inches in diameter. A cheese
weighs 20 pounds.

ROLLOT.

This is a soft rennet cheese, 24 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, made
in the Departments of Somme and Oise, France.

ROMADOUR.

Romadour, Remoudou, or Romatur cheese is a southern Bavarian product
similar to Limburg. It is 44 by 2 hy 2 inches in size and weighs 1 pound. It
is said to be a little finer variety of cheese than Limburg and to sell for a
slightly higher price.

ROQUEFORT.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep. There are, how-
ever, numerous imitations or varieties closely resembling Roquefort, such as
Gex and Septmoncel, made from cow’s milk. One of the most striking charac-
teristics of this cheese is the mottled or marbled appearance of the interior, due
to the development of a penicillium, which is the principal ripening agent. The
manufacture of Roquefort cheese has been carried on in the southeastern part

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 49

of France for at least two centuries. The industry is particularly important
in the Department of Aveyron, in which is situated the village of Roquefort,
from which the cheese derives its name. It is also made in Corsica. Imitations
of Roquefort cheese are made in various countries.

The evening’s milk is heated to 140° to 150° F., cooled, and kept over night.
After being skimmed it is mixed with the fresh morning’s milk. The mixture
is then set with rennet at a temperature of about 90°. In from 1 to 2 hours
after the addition of rennet the curd is cut until the particles are about the size
of walnuts. The whey which rises to the surface is dipped off and the curd is
put into hoops which are about 84 inches in diameter and 33 inches in height.
The hoops are filled usually in three layers, a layer of moldy bread crumbs
being interspersed between the first and second and second and third layers.
The bread used for this purpose is prepared from wheat and barley flour, with
the addition of whey and a little vinegar. It is thoroughly baked and kept in
a moist place for 4 to 6 weeks, during which time it becomes permeated with
a growth of the mold referred to. The crust is removed and the interior is
crumbled very fine and sifted. The cheese is subjected to pressure, which is
gradually increased, for 10 to 12 hours. It is turned usually 1 hour after
putting into hoops. At the end of about 12 hours it is wrapped in cloth and
taken to the first curing room. The cloths are frequently changed during the
10 to 12 days the cheese remains in this place.

Formerly the manufacture of the cheese up to this stage was carried on by
the shepherds themselves, but in recent years centralized factories have been
established and much of the milk is collected and there made into cheese. The
cheese is then taken to the caves. These are for the most part natural caverns
which exist in large numbers in the region of Roquefort. The temperature in
these caves is 40° to 45°, and the air circulates very freely through them.
Recently artificial caves have been constructed and used. When the cheeses
reach the caves they are salted, which serves to check the growth of the mold
on the surface. One or two days later they are rubbed vigorously with cloth
and are afterwards subjected to thorough scraping with knives, a process for-
merly done by hand but now much more satifactorily and economically by ma-
chinery. The salting, scraping, or brushing seems to check the development
of mold on the surface. In order to favor the growth of mold in the interior,
the cheese is pierced by machinery with 60 to 100 small steel needles, which
process permits the free access of air. The cheese may be sold after 30 to 40
days or may remain in the caves as long as 5 months, depending upon the
degree of ripening desired. The cheese loses during ripening by scraping and
evaporation as much as 25 per cent of the original weight. The weight when
ripened is about 44 to 5 pounds.

SAANEN.

This is a type of Emmental cheese made in Switzerland from cow’s milk. It
is sometimes known at Hartkiise, Reibkiise, and Walliskiise. First mentioned
in the sixteenth century, it is still manufactured extensively at the present
time and exported to a limited extent. It sells for a higher price than the
regular Emmental. The process of manufacture is identical with that of
Emmental, except that it is cooked much dryer, takes much longer to cure, and
keeps longer. The cheese weighs from 10 to 20 pounds. The eyes are few
and small.

The ripening period is never less than 3 years and many require as long as
9 years, the average being 6 years. The cheeses are kept to great ages, it
being the custom to make a cheese at the birth of a child and eat it at the

10415°—Bull. 146—11——4

50 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

burial feast or even at the burial feast of a son of the child for whom it is
made. One cheese is mentioned as being 200 years old and is considered a great
honor to the household. Many cheeses are kept until they are 30 years old.

SAGE.

This cheese is made by the ordinary Cheddar process, and may be of any of
the various shapes and sizes in which that cheese is pressed. As seen when
cut it has a green mottled appearance.

Formerly sage cheese was made by mixing green sage leaves with the curd
before it was pressed. At the present time the flavor of sage is obtained by sage
extract. To secure the green mottles, succulent green corn is cut fine and the
juice is pressed out. A small portion of the milk is mixed with this juice and
is set with rennet in a small vat while the bulk of the milk is set in the ordi-
nary manner. After the curd is cut and is firm enough to be handled, the green
curd from the small vat is mixed with the uncolored curd, and the process is
continued as in the Cheddar process. This is a very popular variety of cheese
with many consumers,

SAINT BENOIT.

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Olivet, and is made in the Department
of Loiret, France. Charcoal is added to the salt which is applied to the exterior
of the cheese. Ripening requires from 12 to 15 days in summer and 18 to 20
days in winter. A cheese is about 6 inches in diameter.

SAINT CLAUDE.

This is a small, square, goat’s-milk cheese made in the region of Saint Claude,
France. The milk is curdled with rennet and the curd placed in molds for 6
to 8 hours. It is then salted and allowed to ripen, or may, however, be eaten
when fresh. <A cheese weighs from one-quarter to one-half pound.

SAINT MARCELLIN.

This is a goat’s-milk cheese made in the Department of Isére, France.
Sheep’s milk or even cow’s milk may be mixed with the goat’s milk. A cheese
is about 3 inches in diameter and three-fourths of an inch thick and weighs
about one-fourth pound.

SAINT REMY.

‘This is a soft rennet cheese differing but little from Pont l’Evéque. It is
made in the Department of Haute-Sadne, France.

SALOIO.
4
This is a kind of hand cheese made from skimmed cow’s milk on farms in
the region of Lisbon, Portugal. It has the form of a short cylinder, measures
14 to 2 inches in diameter, and weighs about 4 ounces. A similar cheese of
about the same character is made in Thomar, about 50 miles north of Lisbon.

SAP SAGO.

This cheese is made from sour skimmed cow’s milk, principally in Glarus,
Switzerland. It is known also as Schabzieger, Glarnerkiise, Griinerkiise, and
Kriiuterkise. It is claimed to have been made in the thirteenth century; the
authentic history at least dates back to the fifteenth century. Sap Sago is a

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 51

small, hard, green cheese flavored with the leaves of a species of clover; it is
shaped like a truncated cone, 4 inches high, 3 inches in diameter at the base,
and 2 inches at the top. This cheese is imported to some extent into the United
States under the name of Sap Sago.

The skimmed milk from which this cheese is made is not allowed to become
sour enough to coagulate on heating, as it would make too hard a curd. The
milk when it has reached the right acidity is heated to the boiling temperature
while being stirred. Cold buttermilk is then added, as is also some whey having
a high percentage of acidity. The material coagulating on the surface is
skimmed off. The milk is then stirred while sufficient acid whey is added to
precipitate the casein. When too little whey is used the curd is too soft, and
when too much is used it is too hard. The curd is dipped with a skimmer and
spread out to cool and then put in boxes and allowed to drain and ferment. The
box is kept at a temperature of about 60° F., and pressure is applied by
weighting with stones. Ripening is allowed to continue for 3 to 6 weeks. If the
temperature of the room is too high or there is not sufficient pressure, too rapid
and strong fermentation results. This curd is used for making the finished
product, but the cheese is seldom finished where the curd is made. The curd is
ground in a mill, and every 100 pounds of cheese contains 5 pounds of salt and
25 pounds of dried Melilotus cewrulea, an aromatic clover which is grown in
the Canton of Schweiz for the purpose. The ground material is worked up
into a dough and is forced into molds lined with linen cloth, and the name of
the manufacturer is stamped on the large end. The mold is then emptied and
refilled. The cheeses are dumped promiscuously into a large cask holding about
200 pounds. A comparatively small quantity is shipped into this country. It
sells at a low price and is usually grated.

SASSENAGE.

This is a hard rennet cheese, about 12 inches in diameter and 3 inches in
height, made from cow’s milk to which small quantities of goat’s and sheep’s
milk are usually added. The cheese is almest identical with that of Gex and
Septmoncel. It derives its name from the village of Sassenage, near Grenoble,
in the Department of Isére, France. The milk used is usually a mixture of
skimmed milk and whole milk. It is set with rennet, and the curd is cut and
put into molds in the same manner as with the other varieties mentioned. The
same is also true of the ripening process, which requires about 2 months.

SCANNO.

This is a soft rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep in the Apennine
Mountains, in the Province of Abruzzo, Italy. It derives its name from the
village of Scanno. The surface of the cheese is colored a deep black. The
interior is bright yellow and has the consistency of butter.

SCARMORZE.

This is a small rennet cheese made in southern Italy from the milk of buffaloes.

SCHAMSER.

This cheese, which is also known as Rheinwald, is a rennet cheese made from
skimmed cow’s milk in the Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland. The cheeses
weigh from 40 to 45 pounds and are 18 inches in diameter and 5 inches high,

52 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.
SCHLOSS.

Schlosskase, or Castle cheese, is a Limburg cheese made in the northern part
of Austria. It is a soft-cured rennet cheese 4 by 2 by 2 inches in size. When
ready for market it is wrapped in tin foil.

SCHOTTENGSIED.
This a whey cheese made by the peasants of the Alps for home use.
SCHWARZENBERG.

This cheese is made in southern Bohemia and western Hungary. It is a
rennet cheese made from partly skimmed cow’semilk. One part of skimmed
milk is added to two parts of fresh milk. In about 1 hour after the addition
of rennet the curd is broken up and thoroughly stirred. It is then dipped into
wooden forms and light pressure applied for half a day. For 4 or 5 days fol-
lowing the cheese is rubbed with salt and is then taken to the cellar, where
it is washed daily with salt water until ripe, which requires 2 to 3 months.

SENECTERRE.

This is a soft rennet cheese originating at Saint Nectaire, in the Department
of Puy-de-Doéme, France. It is made out of whole milk, is cylindrical in shape,
and weighs about 14 pounds.

SEPTMONCEL.

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow’s milk, to which a small propor-
tion of goat’s milk is sometimes added. It resembles the Gex and Sassenage
varieties very closely, and its process of manufacture is almost identical with
that of Roquefort. It is also known as Jura blue cheese. It derives its name
from the village of Septmoncel, near Saint Claude, in the Department of Jura,
where the cheese is for the most part made. The cheese is made almost exclu-
sively on isolated farms rather than in cooperative dairies, and the methods
employed are somewhat rudimentary.

The milk, which is usually partly skimmed, is set with rennet at a tempera-
ture of about 85° F. The curd is cut and stirred after about 13 hours. After
the curd has settled the whey is poured off. The stirring and draining are
repeated several times until the curd is sufficiently firm to put into hoops.
Moderate pressure is applied for a few hours. The cheese is salted at the end
of 24 hours, and thereafter daily for several days. It is then transferred to
the first curing room, which is kept cool and moist. After 3 to 4 weeks it has
become covered with blue mold, when it is transferred to cellars or natural
caves, where the ripening is completed in from 3 to 4 weeks longer.

SERRA DA ESTRELLA.

This is the most highly prized of the several kinds of cheeses made in
Portugal. The name refers to the mountainous region in which the cheese is
produced. It is made for the most part from the milk of sheep, but goat’s milk
is often added to this, or even used alone, and occasionally cow’s milk is used.

The method of making this cheese is comparatively simple. The milk is
warmed in a kettle with little regard to the temperature obtained, and is
coagulated in most cases by means of an extract of the flowers of a kind of
thistle, The time required for curdling varies from 2 to 6 hours, depending

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 53

upon the amount of the extract used. The curd is broken up with a ladle or
by hand, squeezed to remove most of the whey, and put into circular forms.
After draining until sufficiently firm the cheeses are removed from the hoops
and allowed to ripen for several weeks, during which time they are frequently
washed with whey and salted on the surface. The cheeses vary much in size,
the larger measuring about 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weigh-
ing about 5 pounds. The cheese is rather soft and has a pleasant acid taste.

A similar cheese made in another part of Portugal is known as Castello
Branco.

SERVIAN.

In making Servian cheese the milk is warmed in a kettle over a fire or ina
tub by immersing heated stones. After the rennet is added the milk is allowed
to stand 1 hour. The curd is then lifted in a cloth and the whey allowed to
drain. It is then placed in a wooden vessel, salted, and covered successively
with whey for about 8 days and fresh milk for about 6 days.

SILESIAN.

A cheese known locally as Schlesischer Weichquarg is made from skimmed
cow’s milk, the process of manufacture resembling that of hand cheese. The
milk is allowed to coagulate from souring and the curd is broken up and cooked
at 100° F. for a short period. The curd is then put in a cloth sack and light
pressure applied for 24 hours, after which it is kneaded by hand and salt and
milk or cream are added. Flavoring substances such as onions or caraway seed
are also sometimes added. The cheese is eaten fresh.

Another cheese known as Schlesischer Sauermilchkise is also made in much
the same way as hand cheese. The cheeses are kept on shelves covered with
straw, and are dried by the stove in winter and in a latticework house in
summer. Drying is continued until the cheese becomes very hard. The cheese
is ripened in a cellar, the process requiring 3 to 8 weeks, during which time it is
washed every few days with warm water.

SIRAZ.

This is a Servian cheese made as a rule from whole milk. The milk is set
at 104° F. and the curd is lifted from the whey with a cloth and pressed into
cakes 4 to 6 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. These cakes are placed in the
sun to dry until the fat commences to run, when they are rubbed several times
with salt until a good crust is formed. The cakes are then packed in a wooden
vessel and allowed to ripen. The cut surface shows a smooth appearance with-
out holes. It is between a hard and a soft cheese.

SLIPCOTE.

This cheese is made in Rutlandshire, England. It is a soft unripened rennet
cheese, made from cow’s milk. The curd is dipped into small forms and no
pressure is applied. After the cheese is removed from the form the surface dries
and cracks and is easily slipped off, hence the name. It is an old cheese, having
Leen well known in the middle of the eighteenth century.

SPALEN.

This is a type of Emmental cheese, and is sometimes known as Stringer. Its
origin is unknown. It is made largely in the Canton of Unterwalden, Switzer-
land, from sweet cow’s milk, often partly skimmed. The name is derived from

54 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

the vessel in which the cheeses are transported and in which five or six of them
are packed. This is a small cheese for an Emmental type. Each cheese weighs
from 35 to 40 pounds.

No thermometer is used in the manufacture, the temperature being judged by
the feeling, and a very uneven product is the result. The process of making
seems to vary much, the press consisting of a board with stones for weights,
and the temperature of the cellar being poorly regulated.

SPITZ.

This is a small rennet cheese made from cow’s milk. The cheese is cylindrical
in shape, being 4 inches high and 13 inches in diameter.

STEPPES.

This name is applied to a Russian cheese made from whole milk. The milk
after the addition of coloring matter is heated to about 90° F. and treated with
sufficient rennet to secure coagulation in 40 to 45 minutes. The curd is cut into
large cubes, the whey removed slowly, and the curd is still further broken up
until the particles are uniformly about the size of peas. The curd is then heated
gradually to 100° to 104°, the mass meanwhile being gently agitated. The
stirring is kept up for some time after heating ceases until the curd becomes
dry, when it is placed in molds 10 by 53 by 7 inches. After the cheeses are re-
woved from the molds they are turned frequently and 5 hours later are salted
‘and transferred to the curing cellar, where a temperature of about 55° is main-
tained. During ripening the cheeses are worked occasionally with salt water
and turned frequently.

STILTON.

This is a hard rennet cheese, the best of which is made from cow’s milk to
which a portion of cream has been added. It was first made near the village of
Stilton, Huntingdonshire, England, about the middle of the eighteenth century.
It is now made principally in Leicestershire and west Rutlandshire, though its
manufacture has extended to other parts of England. Its manufacture has been
tried, though without success, in the United States. The cheese is about 7
inches in diameter and 9 inches high and weighs 12 to 15 pounds. It has a very
characteristic wrinkled or ridged skin or rind, which is likely caused by the dry-
ing of molds and bacteria on the surface. When cut it shows blue or green por-
tions of mold which give its characteristic piquant flavor. The price in this
country is about 45 cents a pound wholesale. The cheese belongs to the same
group as the Roquefort of France and the Gorgonzola of Italy.

The morning’s milk is put in a tin vat and the cream from the night’s milk is
added, and the whole is brought to a temperature of 80° F., when the rennet is
added. It is claimed by some cheese makers that the curd should be softer
when broken up or cut than the curd for Cheddar cheese, while by others it is
believed that it should become very firm before it is disturbed, allowing 1 to 2
hours for setting. When sufficiently firm the curd is dipped into cloths which
are placed in tin strainers. After draining for 1 hour the cloths containing the
curd are packed closely together in a large tub and allowed to remain for 12
hours, when they are again tightened and packed for 18 hours. The curd is
ground up coarse and salt is added, 1 pound to 60 pounds of curd. The curd is
then put into tin hoops 8 inches in diameter and 10 inches deep. The cheeses
remain in the hoops for 6 days, when they are bandaged for 12 days, or until
they become firm, and are then placed in the curing room at 65°. Ripened Stil-
ton cheese is of late often ground up and put into jars holding 1 to 24 pounds.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 55

STRACCHINO.

This name is applied to several forms of Italian soft cheeses, the best known
of which is Stracchino di Gorgonzola, which is described under the name of Gor-
gonzola. A square form 6 to 8 inches on a side and 14 inches thick is known as
Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quadro, or Quartirola. This cheese is prepared
similarly to Gorgonzola but is allowed to ripen for only about 2 months. It is
not much exported. Stracchino Crescenza is a very soft and highly colored
cheese usually eaten fresh. The form is similar to that of the Quartirola. It is
usually marketed in about 8 days and can not be kept long.

4

STYRIA.

This is a cylindrical-shaped cheese made from unskimmed cow’s milk in
Styria, Austria.

SWEET CURD.

This is a name applied in the United States to a hard rennet cheese made
from cow’s milk. The name is used to distinguish it from the ordinary Cheddar
or granular process, as in making Sweet Curd cheese the milk is set sweet, and
the cutting and cooking are done rapidly without regard to the development
of acid. In making this cheese the curd is cooked very firm and is salted and
put to press immediately. In all other respects the process is the same as for
Cheddar, and the cheese when ripened resembles that cheese very closely.

_ SWISS.

Swiss or Schweitzer cheese belongs to the Emmental group of cheeses and is
made usually from half-skimmed cow’s milk. Its manufacture is very old. It
is supposed to have originated in the Alps, but is now made in most of the
surrounding countries. It is made mostly in the winter season, when the price
of butter is high, and only for local consumption. Its manufacture differs from
real Emmental in that it is made from half-skimmed milk. The morning’s milk
is first heated and the skimmed evening’s milk is added. The curd is cut
coarser and is not cooked so firm as Emmental, which gives a softer and more
quickly ripened cheese.

The cheese made in the United States which goes by the name of Swiss or
Domestic Swiss is in reality an imitation of the Emmental cheese, as it is made
from whole milk.

TAFI.

_ This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Tucuman, in the Argentine
Republic.

TAMIE.

This cheese is made by the Trappists in Savoy, France. The whole milk is
heated to about 80° F. and coagulated with rennet in about 30 minutes. The
curd is cut fine, cooked to about 100°, stirred, and put into molds 7 inches in
diameter and 4 inches in height. The cheese is pressed for 6 to 8 hours, the
cloths being changed frequently. After being salted the cheese is ripened for
5 to 6 weeks. The method of manufacture is, to a large extent, a trade secret.
The Tome de Beaumont is a more or less successful imitation.

—6h6 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,
TEXEL.

This is a sheep’s-milk cheese made in Holland. It was known in the seven-
teenth century. A cheese weighs 38 to 4 pounds and is colored green.

THENAY.

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Venddéme and is made
in the region of Thenay in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. It is of
comparatively recent origin, and its consumption is limited practically to the
region in which it is produced.

The evening’s milk without being skimmed is mixed with the fresh morning’s
milk. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. and
allowed to stand for 4 to 5 hours. The curd is then broken up and put into
hoops about 5 inches in diameter and 4 inches in height. After draining for
about 1 day it is turned and salted. The cheese is then kept for about 20 days
in a well-ventilated room during which time it becomes covered with molds, It
is then taken to the curing cellar for about 15 days.

TIGNARD.

This is a hard rennet cheese, resembling Gex and Sassenage, made from
sheep’s and goat’s milk in the valley of the Tigne, in Savoy, France.

TILSIT.

This is a hard rennet cheese made mainly in East Prussia from unskimmed
cow’s milk. It is sometimes called Ragnit. The milk is set at 92° F. with suffi-
cient rennet to coagulate in from 15 to 40 minutes. The curd is rather
coarsely cut or broken and is cooked to 104° to 110°, being stirred meanwhile
with a harp. The curd is cooked quite firm or until it can not be squeezed
through between the fingers, which requires about 40 minutes. It is then
dipped into cylindrical forms, where it remains 24 hours. The cheese is then
covered thickly with salt for from 1 to 2 days, when it is put into a salt bath
for 3 to 5 days and then transferred to the cellar. Here it is rubbed and
washed with salt water frequently, and allowed to ripen for 4 to 6 months,
The cheese is 6 to 12 inches in diameter, 3 to 43 inches in height, and weighs
from 6 to 28 pounds. It resembles in general characteristics the Brick cheese
of the United States.

TOPPEN.

This is a German sour-milk cheese made from skim milk and eaten while
fresh. It is put up in small packages weighing about 1 ounce.

TRAPPIST.

This cheese originated with the Trappists in 1885 in the monastery of Maria-
stern, near Banjaluka, in Bosnia. The fresh milk is heated to about 85° ae:
and rennet is added. After 1 to 14 hours the curd, without being cut or stirred,
is put into hoops and pressed, after which it is salted and ripened. The
growth of mold is entirely prevented by frequent washing, and thus the cheese
ripens uniformly throughout. The ripening period of the smaller cheeses is
5 to 6 weeks in summer, but the cheese is usually shipped at the end of 4 to
5 weeks. The cheese is pale yellow in color and has a remarkably mild taste.
Although this cheese is to be classed among the soft varieties, the water con-

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 57

tent is often below 45 per cent. The ripening is also more characteristic of
the hard cheeses. .The smallest size of the cheese made in the monastery
referred to has a diameter of 6 inches, a height of 2 inches, and weighs 2 to
3 pounds. A larger size measures 9 inches in diameter, 24 inches in height, and
weighs about 10 pounds. There is also a still larger size. The cheese is ex-
ported to a large extent to Austria and Hungary, the most important centers
of the trade in these regions being Gratz and Budapest. It is, however, found
in all of the large cities of Austria, and the demand appears to be constantly in-
creasing. This cheese is very probably the same as Port du Salut.

A cheese which is very likely identical with the Trappist, or Port du Salut,
is made in the Trappist monastery at Oka, Canada, and goes by the name of
Oka cheese.

TRAVNIK.

This is a soft rennet cheese made usually from whole sheep’s milk to which a
small amount of goat’s milk is added. Skimmed milk, however, is sometimes
used. It is also known as Arnauten and Vlasic. This cheese originated in
Albania in the northwestern part of Turkey in Europe and has been made for
at least a century. In the country of origin it was known at first by the name
Arnautski Sir or Arnauten cheese. At the present time it is made in Bosnia
and Herzegovina, but principally in the Vlasic Plain. The center of trade in
this cheese is Travnik in Bosnia.

The fresh warm milk is treated with sufficient rennet to secure otntacs in
one and one-fourth to two hours and is then allowed to stand for a short time
until the coagulum contracts and the whey appears on the surface. The curd
is then put into woolen sacks and drained for 7 to 8 hours, when it is pressed
into flattened balls by hand. These are dried for a short time in the open air
and then packed into wooden receptacles varying in diameter from 14 to 28
inches, having a height of about 24 inches, and holding from 50 to 130 pounds of
cheese. Each layer of cheese is salted and pressed so that no air spaces are
left. When the receptacle is filled the whey usually shows at the surface, any
excess being removed. Moderate pressure is applied to the cover placed upon
the cheese. When fresh, the cheese made from whole sheep’s milk has a soft
consistency, a nearly white color, and a pleasant, mild taste. The cheese, how-
ever, is usually allowed to ripen for two weeks to several months. No holes
should develop in the cheese.

TROUVILLE.

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the same locality as Pont l’Evéque and
is of the same nature though superior in quality. Only fresh whole milk is
used. The temperature of setting with rennet is 85° to 95° F. The growth of
— molds during ripening is prevented by frequent washing with salt water.

TROYES.

Two kinds of cheese are referred to by this name—one a washed cheese with a
yellow rind, known as Ervy, and the other a cheese very closely resembling
Camembert and known as Barberey. The industry is quite restricted.

TUNA.

Tuna cheese is a Mexican product which has been of local importance from
an early date. It is really a confection rather than a cheese, being made from
the fruit of the Tuna cardona, or sometimes the Tuna pachona. The product

58 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

is made by boiling and straining the Tuna pulp until a cheese-like consistency is
reached, sometimes with the addition of nuts or flavors. It is of a chocolate
color, pleasant to the taste, and wholesome. It is said to keep in good condition
indefinitely. .

TWOROG.

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Russia. The soured milk is kept in a
warm place for 24 hours, when the whey is removed and the curd put imto
wooden forms and subjected to pressure. This cheese is made on a large scale
by farmers and is often used in making a bread called “* Notruschki.”

URI.

This is a hard rennet cow’s-milk cheese made in the Canton of Uri, Switzer-
land. It has a diameter of 8 to 12 inches and is 8 inches high. It weighs 20
to 40 pounds.

VACHERIN.

This name is applied to two quite different kinds of cheese.

The form designated Vacherin 4 la Main is made in Switzerland and in Savoy,
France. Whole cow’s milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F.,
and the curd is cut very fine and put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 5
to 6 inches high. It is salted and ripened. The rind is firm and hard, but the
interior is almost liquid in consistency. It is either spread on bread or eaten
with a spoon. A ripened cheese weighs from 5 to 10 pounds. <A cheese of this
kind made in the same region is known locally as Tome de Montagne.

The form designated Vacherin Fondu is made in much the’ same manner as
Emmental cheese. The ripened cheese is then melted and spices are added.

VENDOME.

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Thenay, and is made
in the region of VendOme in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France.

The warm morning’s milk is usually mixed with that of the previous evening,
which secures ordinarily a setting temperature of 75° to 85° F., which is
desired. The period of setting is 4 to 5 hours in summer and 5 to 6 hours in
winter. The curd is then broken up and put into hoops about 5 inches in
diameter and 4 inches in height. After draining for 24 hours the cheese is
turned and salted, which process is twice repeated at intervals of 12 hours.
When sufficiently dried it is placed in the curing cellar, where it is often buried
in ashes. This cheese is placed by some on a rank with Camembert. The
principal market is Paris,

VILLIERS.

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the Department of Haute-Marne, France.
It is a square cheese weighing about 1 pound.

VOID.

This is a soft rennet cheese rsembling Pont l’BHyéque and Limburg. It is
made in the Department of Meuse, France. The milk is set with rennet at a
high temperature, the whey is removed as rapidly as possible, and the cheeses
during ripening are washed frequently with salt water.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 59

VORARLBERG SOUR MILK.

This, as the name indicates, is made from sour cow’s milk. It is semicircular
in shape and varies in size. It is essentially a hard cheese.

The sweet milk is put in a kettle and raised to 77° F., and sour thickened milk
is added and the mixture stirred and heated to 95°, at which temperature it
coagulates. While this is being stirred with a curd scoop the temperature is
raised to 105°. The curd is then dipped into forms, where it is turned a few
times during 24 hours. Salt is rubbed on the surface and the cheese is placed
in a room having a temperature of 67°. The cheese is then placed in a cask
and held for 3 days, and salt is sprinkled over the surface daily. The ripening
is completed in a cellar. When ripe the cheese is greasy and has a very strong
odor and flavor.

WEISSLAK.

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow’s milk in the Bavarian
Algau, Germany. ‘The cheese weighs about 23 pounds, and is rectangular in
shape, 44 by 4 by 34 inches.

WENSLEYDALE.

This cheese derives its name from the valley in Yorkshire, England, in which
it is made. It is a rennet cheese made from whole cow’s milk. It is cylindrical
in shape and weighs from 5 to 15 pounds.

In the old method of manufacture the evening’s milk is heated to 100° F., and
the fresh morning’s milk is added. It is set with sufficient rennet to coagu-
late it in 85 minutes. The breaking or cutting process requires 35 minutes,
after which the curd is allowed to stand for 45 minutes at 90°. The whey is
then removed, and the curd is put in vats lined with cloth and light pressure
is applied for 30 minutes. The curd is broken up and allowed to drain for 1
hour. It is then milled and is pressed for 24 hours, when it is wrapped in
cloth, and finally put in brine for 3 days.

In the new method of manufacture the evening’s milk and morning’s milk
are mixed in a copper kettle, heated to 95°, and enough rennet is added to
coagulate it in 45 minutes. The curd is then broken up by hand or with a
breaker. The whey is removed and the curd dipped into tin hoops where it
drains for 3 hours. It is then turned and drained for another 3 hours. After
pressing for 24 hours the cheese is salted by immersion in brine for 3 days.

WEST FRIESIAN.

This is a rennet cheese made from skimmed cow’s milk. The milk is set ina
copper kettle, 1 hour being allowed for coagulation. The curd is broken up and
placed in a wooden tub, where it is kneaded. The curd is allowed to stand for
several hours and then salted. It is pressed for 3 hours, washed in hot water,
wrapped in a fine cloth and again pressed for 12 hours. The cheese is eaten
when 1 week old.

WESTPHALIA SOUR MILK.

This is a hand cheese made in Westphalia. Sour milk is stirred and heated
to 100° F., and placed in a sack and the whey pressed out. The curd is then
kneaded by hand and salted, butter and caraway seed or pepper being added.
It is then molded by hand, dried for a few hours, and ripened in a cellar.

60 VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

WHITE.

Fromage Blanc, or White cheese, is a skim-milk cheese made in France during
the summer months. The milk is set with rennet at about 75° F. The curd is
usually molded into cylindrical forms. The cheese is consumed while fresh and
may or may not be salted. :

WITHANIA.

This is so called because made with rennet manufactured from withania
berries. Cheese made with the rennet of these berries is said to have an agree-
able flavor if ripened to the right degree, but it develops an acrid flavor with
age. The texture is not so good as with animal rennet. This form of rennet is
recommended for use in India, where the religion and prejudice of the people
make the use of animal rennet impractical.

ZIEGEL.

This is a cheese made in Austria either from whole cow’s milk or from whole
milk to which 15 per cent of cream has been added. The cheese measures 5 by
2 by 23 inches, and weighs about one-half pound.

In making the whole-milk cheese the milk is warmed to 95° F. and sufficient
rennet is added to coagulate it in 80 minutes. The curd is broken up with a
harp and cut loose from the bottom of the vessel, after which it is allowed to
remain undisturbed for 30 minutes. At the end of this time the curd, which is
again matted together, is cut into pieces and stirred gently for a considerable
time, after which it is allowed to stand again for 15 minutes. The collected
whey is then dipped off and the curd is dipped into forms which are 24 inches
long, 5 inches high, and hold the curd of 74 to 8 gallons of milk. Before the
form is filled a cheese cloth is placed in it which helps in turning the curd. The
curd remains in the form 24 hours to drain and is then cut into measured sizes
and placed in another form, where it is allowed to remain for 8 days, the curd
being turned and the board on which the form rests being changed daily. Salt
is then sprinkled on the cheese and for 1 month it is washed in salt water and
rubbed with the hands every day. It is ready for market in 8 weeks from the
time of making.

ZIGER.

This is a cheese made from the whey obtained in the manufacture of other
cheese. It consists principally of albumin, but where no effort is made to sepa-
rate the fat from the whey the product may contain a relatively high proportion
of fat. It is a cheap food product made in all the countries of central Europe.
Among the many names applied to it are Albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta,
Broccio, Brocotte, Sérac, and Ceracee.

In the manufacture of this product an effort is sometimes made to remove the
fat remaining in the whey, but in most cases the fat is allowed to remain.
Where it is desired to skim the whey a small portion of very sour whey, pre-
viously prepared, is added to the sweet whey and the whole is heated to 160° to
175° F. for a few minutes, when the fat collects on the surface and can be
skimmed off. Following this a greater portion of sour whey is added and the
whey is then heated nearly to the boiling point, when the albumin is precipitated
in a flocculent condition and rises to the surface of the whey. When the whey
is not in normal condition the albumin may be precipitated in a powdery mass.
This is often prevented by adding 3 to 5 per cent of buttermilk to the whey

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 61

before the last heating. The casein of the buttermilk is precipitated, the
albumin being carried with it. It is considered that this addition of casein
injures the product. The albumin when skimmed from the whey is salted and
packed in a vessel and may be covered with whey.

A so-called formed Ziger cheese is made by molding the half-dried albumin
into squares which may be still further dried. Some of these have local names,
such as the Hudelziger made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland.

In Vorarlberg the albumin is skimmed from the whey, allowed to cool, placed
in cheese cloth, and subjected to increasing pressure in an Emmental cheese
press. After 24 hours the cheese is put into a salt bath to which sweet cider
and vinegar are sometimes added.

A mixture of Ziger and cream prepared in the Savoy is known as Gruau de
Montagne. An albumin cheese made from the whey of goat’s-milk cheese in the
Canton of Graubitinden, Switzerland, is known as Masearponi.

ANALYSES OF CHEESE.

Prat Milk
, , Number of teids, | S¥897"| Total | Salt in
Variety. Authority. analyses. Water. Fat. amit ds, pais neh aehe
| ,
| etc. | ‘ete.
| Per ct.|Per ct.\|Per ct.|Per ct.|Per ct.|Per ct.
MIEMECIO ws. 2 a .2ccle waren Hofiman? 2222. Ot Pe Se see ee 30.22 | 38.25 | 20.87 | 3.06} 7.60 2.90
Average.....- 41.11 | 27.49 | 21.45 | 4.66] 6.07 2.05
POreIrg). <cce.- 02 4;Maximum....| 48.39 | 31.59 | 24.33 | 5.24] 6.40 3.20
Minimum..... 32.97 4 ee 17.77 Ms - a oF 1.18
= 73.12 19.84 ail A Nees
Backstein /-3625 - 22053 Fleischmann PRE ee i. 04! 6. 80 23. 85 | 3.48 4 83 Leones
. -24 | 28.1 Ba aes cee AGIA oe eeterre
Lindt..........- 2.2 ee ee eee esses 135.80 | 37.40 | 24.44 |....... 2.36'|.......
Average...... 47.71 | 24.08 | 22.99 | 2.35] 2.87 |.......
Battelmatt............ Muging 2 Rosas 74Maximum....| 50.53 | 29.42 | 24.48 | 3.35] 3.14 |.......
Minimum..... 44.24. | 20:52) | 21.29 || 2°25 “2 iia eee
iBelldlayca:.4: ass seheu Benecke....-...- di. tose eee aoe 39.62 | 30.10 | 25.70 }......- 4.72 3.35
ind Goecen cee 1 es oy ee 37.59 | 30.05 | 28.88 J....... 3450 sees
BonGdon=s tit... cte ace Chattaway....- fl ee BE AR 2 39.50 | 24.40 | 9.40 ]....... Pat UN se ee
Lindeteess- aac tL oe ete 54.30 | 23.00 | 16.10) }:...3.. 5.00 4.30
IBIGK Sees ees eee e eee Weems... 25:5. Lee Se ee 38.69 | 28.86 | 23.80 |. ve ‘ ne Saehee
A 48.80 | 22.45 | 19.94 85 OGY covers
Brie... --.-...-.+.--+.- Balland........ Bonne een senna ‘e 90 | 28.93 | 19.04] 6.63| 1.50 |.......
Biytheetecectee Lee eee oe 51.90 | 24.80 | 18.10 |....... 5.00 eceeeie
Average...... 90:04) 27.50) 18.34 40-2. 4.12 3.22
DUCKS 5;Maximum....| 53.84 | 29.50 | 19.94 |......- 4.37 3.70
Minimum 3 A i 2.67
von Klenze..... Loc ccenes cine --cs-| 59069) | 21.49' | 17220") ocean
Lindetes.- 202. 1 PRR ead i 3.20
Payee. -csh.ce De Le OS: GTS:
Brie—
AM@VICAN 62 .06c-5 ATNOIGS Secwne se 1 Fe eR co Oe : 681. sees] aac eee
Johnson...:.... | epee ee a Fe ; k : - 40
Brinsen 2. Ae ssseeasce MRIOPIC Sic seve 7 AS Se eh SOEK abt E 3 : . fn ee
Melikoff........ Re aati eee ( i i Ea,
BOrean yin wot setee ec Balland: -<-2 2. fs Lectade Maen ; 3 : : ee
Caciocavallo........... Sartori. = ene..< Ae oe ee : i r : 4 i
Average...... : E - 63 3.39
Spier sd. .cie. wee 9,Maximum....) 33.24 | 30.09 | 35.09 |......- 10.50 : 2
pldaek Dents aweabiaet Chattaway..... 1 eee eee mee 5 5 ; i ‘
Can jit (StS: Oa ae ae Chattaway....-. eee cer aaa ‘ 7
Camembert. ---...2.-.. IMACS oe See 1 ee Fa Sees a8 } ;
Balland.=:.-.-- Lr cL ee E F
Chattaway..... Dae Scere : f
Duclaux 1h ee ee F ;
Kriiger 1 peed oy Fa eRe ;
Lindet yaa se oe : fi
Macoir Dee eee ee ; i
Muter De ce coe casaeoee
Payen. a he -| 51. i
Rollet | eee een N 5
Stutzer De Se ee i :
i 4,
Cantale.2eececesec cence Balland......0..: SPER fi espn ts FE : : E
Average...... 43.48 | 25.70 | 22.55 | 6.47 |......- 2. 05
Duclauxs.<. 2252 Maximum ....| 44.80 | 31.10 | 24.10 | 7.50 |......- 3.10
Minimum... .. 40.70 | 22.50 | 21.50 | 4.30 }....... - 80
Lindet oes u. ees i (A He A? 40.90 | 29.30 | 20.50 |....... 4.80 2.60
Patrick (2)..... ) PR Heke Wye Pv | 39.92 | 28.14 | 28.84 ae 4.50) lecewe om
62 a4See-Sources of analytical data for details,
Yew

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 63

Analyses of cheese—Continued.

eee USSU DEER GIEESEEEESEIET GERSEENEREREN EEREERSERE GHEEEEEENEE

J
Number of tells sugar, Total | Salt in
>
Variety. Authority. analyses. Water.| Fat. amids, pu aah | ash,
etc. az
Cheddar— Average....
American......-.-: Caldwell.......-. 8;Maximum .- .
Minimum... -
Average....
9,Maximum. .
paren ae
verage....
Oe ent s9/Maximum. .
Minimum... 3
13 Average.... a
Cooke....-.-..-.- Shere eeiee coe
Drews. 3s. 2.05.5 201 Average....
Average. ...
Goessmann....- 6;Maximum. .
Minimum...| :
Average...
Patricks). 2 15¢4Maximum .
Minimum. .
Snyder.<:-=-22:: 5 Average....-
506 Average...
Average...
156d/Maximum .
Minimum. .
Van Slyke.....- Average...
9e,Maximum .
Minimum. .
Average. ..|'
6/,Maximum . F E fe Aly! Ml eens
Minimum... r : : eA SESS
Woeleler: .. 2 2-2 4 Average..... 3 : . : 1.49
Average.... i F a Pied Oil Pere aS
Wallace........ 159, Maximum .. ; E : HK AGI Eee see
Minimum... 5 3 : abies sea
Wilson... 2.22.5 Buc cccccecceess (sol. 70 | 36.18 | 27.19 | 1.95 | 2.95 |.----.-
Cheddar—
CaNEAIAN. ..).c.6 Chattaway..-..- LPS sje steiate atatetaierats A fs SGQL| (scarce
Average..... E A 3 By. ya nse ee
Clarks. o522955 2 11,Maximum... 3 Ds . Ae il eee
Minimum.... E i 5 Rue eae
ge nee ee P : : osrf(0 18) Meee
verageh...| 32. : AB) eosonwe
Shuttelworth... 135 Average 9g... : > BG Ssogse
135 Average?...| 33. aed Paeoces
Cheddar—
Bnplishl... 2. c.n63 Biythe. 5.3.05 2 2 Average..... } i . BQO he emnreree
Average....| 35. 4 s pe seese=
Chattaway..-... 4’Maximum.. A 3 i OO) heme
Minimum
Griffiths... -22-- eee Dee ee ee ;
Ve SSA Ske ae We soe e eee ae 30. 10 36. B57 70a al Ree |S 3574 al ea
JONES ste 20. <2 =e ee ee eee abt: G7 04 30) 40) |"28.98) |Cxcaees|) es! |see sci
Average...-.| 35.52 | 30.33 | 30.04 |......-) 4005 |.......
Bloyde 5.22 be 314Maximum ..| 37.73 | 34.65 | 35.10 |......-| 4.60 |.......
Minimum... -| 32:85 | 24.00 | 22.77 |--2-..-| 3.40)|---.-2.
Average...-| 35.16 | 30. 45 .70
Voelcker........ 32Maximum ..| 39.43 | 41.58 1.55
Minimum. ..| 30.32 | 23.21 .09
Von Klenze..... yee es a B5p22 | DOW Saeed laceemee tesa! ||. mer =
Cheddar— ih
Queensland.......- Briinnich......-. Destarnelecme = oe (br. oe He = Leak 3

sce ‘i 15 analyses are each the average of 5 monthly analyses. The green cheese was analyzed by
allace.
b Green cheese made at New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, 1892.

c Sugar, ash, etc.

d Green cheese made at numerous factories in New York, 1892 and 1893.

e Age of cheese, seven weeks.

f Age of cheese, five months.

g Green cheese

h Age of cheese, 1 month.

7 Cured cheese.

64

VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

Analyses of cheese—Continued.

Pro-
‘ Number of teids.
Variety. Authority. analyses. Water.) Fat amids,
etc.
Cheshire vce so. os ee ATION 2.3/2 1c cee Ses
Balland-& .-02..: 1. Seuse ee Seen
Average....-
iplades: 25. -- 2:2 6{Maximum ...
Chattaway.--.-- DEAE Snare
Griffiths. ....... L. . ween cee Pe ee
indet: #25; 35 2 oe Sete
Payenecees- secs PERSIE Etat ars
Voelcker........ Qsshri eee
Cotherstone.........-.. Griffiths. ......- D.C ene oe
Voeleker........ Ds See eae se
Coulommiers..../..... Ballang:2..ts22 A cA apes BPE
indet. 2255.8. Denes as ea ee
Cream—
np lish ee sesesnee Chattaway....- ee one eee eae
Pisissall22 5-b5-8 bccn eee ees
Payen sees ve dee cupeeeee seas
Average.....
VARI ceect-ae) 8)Maximum ...
Cream— Minimum....
French Demi-Sel...| Balland........- Leen
Lindete 22a. s26 4 ces cian toee
GresreOnZe 2. cnascl ones Duclauxe: 23-8 5 ee ee
Average.....
Danish Export......-- Storch? 25 --eene 9, Maximum. ..
Minimum... -
Derbyshires,.s.2h-.-06 Sheldon......... Li Sepenee ete
DOrseh ee reece Grifiiths...\...c2-- Dk curhoulaepe ce
Wiethee 2s oe 2 1 ee er eee
Danlopsas. sees Jones's? )...-'S-2 | Dea eee
Oo Fr Wes Bole ne Ree, Amnold:: == S-55 Ds eee
Ballands 3.2520 PASS Pe sae i
Average. .... c
Cribbe Se. -cane 4;Maximum... ;
Minimum. ... :
ht pak gee ae C Reps anne: 5 y
Messall sss 5822s a. 2a aap he SE a ;
von Klenze. . - Se See cre é 5
Lindet. 24. 2252.2 Leh ete Be eee ;
Mayer? 5 3-25.% UA erecta sno c ste : ;
Patrick (2)...-- 1 See Seer 2 F ;
SVEN Soe. ecce ee Sle meme ee 5 Bee : 29.
Edam—American..... Hgecker;...-225¢ SGeeaceemee 28 : ‘ ,
46.80 | 23.30 | 24.24
Average....| 47.55 | 24.42 | 22.18
Van Slyke...... 18 4 : :
Hmmentalliec. ss. .c-e Benecke......-- i
Hornig oy 52: =< i ees eae
von Klenze..... NOEs SS ee
1G | eee nS = |
PnpaMdime nee: se cce | Sean doy e EES Se is SU ei
Formaggini di Lecco..} Cornalba.....-- Das dee eee
Gammielost 22. 22.520- Voelcker.......- Moen edie 1
Gervais: <2. 255 ous cee Balland..... 32. ;
EQ ohal (= 2. y eee 1 eee rae Oa)
Richmond...... Pewee ets eee
Stutzer... 22026 eC Wes eet a
a Green cheese. + Sugar, ash, ete.

Total | Salt in

ash.

ash.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

Analyses of cheese—Continued.

65

Variety.

Goat-milk—French ...

Goat-milk—Norwegian

Gorgonzola.......-.-.-

Authority.

Lindet=..<.<%-+

Werenskiold....
elise so jaa. sis

Chattaway....-

Duclatwx. 5225.2:

Hormige.. 25-5:
von Klenze.....
Rindet.. is. 35. 2s

ATDOIG Ss ciccsce

Mayer: --s.32,,<<

Vieth.. 22 2cne8-

Ballard. =<. <2. 4:

Benecke........
Chattaway..-..-

Duelaux.—. 2s. .2
Wuindetens 3. ea.k<

Number of
analyses. Water.| Fat.
Per ct. |Per ct.
9 31.50 | 28.85
ESE a ea 32.10 | 32.20
Son Miata 49.22 | 2.96
ae aeons ie 35.75 | 28.35
Jee oe cela bees 21. 40 | 25. 40
2 33.10 | 23. 50
Dit rts 37. 40 | 28. 10
eee o eee 34.10 | 37.92
1 ee ees 32. 52 | 29.94
1 a ETA Se 35. 81 | 21.97
fies | at | 28
1 aximum ... hs A
Minimum 28.10 | 22.70
| ee Se 20.80 | 25.90
1 ee ee 64. 80 9. 20
Wescetiatsace eee 17.73 | 46.64
Average..... 20.90 | 19.86
s{ Maximus .--| 26.53 | 32.68
Minimum 15. 53 | 10.98
Me eect ceca eee 31.85 | 27.88
2 40.30 | 26.10
eS shee y=, 33.90 | 26.70
2 42.80 | 29.70
ee Sw 138.69 | 34. 07
1 |e aaa Re 8 2 8 36.72 | 33.69
LA pe eR 26.81 | 35.29
Te Sain pistes eS 41.50 | 29.00
34. 41 | 37. 52
Bomeenneeeaceas 32. 43 | 34.08
37.63 | 36.19
Average Tae ai. 34. 67
74Maximum ...} 47.10 | 39.32
Minimum 29. $2 | 29.00
et eeesecaecies 43.56 |. 27.95
MS croaaaton em Saas 21.90 | 24.81
Average..... 54.79 | 9.02
114/Maximum...| 60.17 | 18.3
Minimum 50.46 | 1.64
Pe Se seein apiasi 38. 80 | 31.20
ME asccucs tracts 35. 23 | 29. 40
be AS Ee 42.58 | 16.18
46.03 | 31.13
BOs =a keer 46. 52 | 29.04
46. 59 | 28.29
Average..... 29.99 | 28.19
9’Maximum...}| 33.10 | 33. 40
Minimum....| 27.50 | 23.10
ee ace cere te 40.61 | 26.59
9 {58 20 | 28.60
Seas TRE: 35.70 | 31.80
| ee ae ee is 36.00 | 29. 29
| ee eae a 35.70 | 28.00
2 34. 57 | 29.12
peste eee oS 35.74 | 30.64
9 40.00 | 24.00
eos oe 2 sar cae 132.05 | 28. 40
Ween denasenaeas 55.79 | 1.34
50. 19 1. 64
Cs Se ees | 52.49 | 1.83
Hb2.75)) 1.00
i i ee Eee 37.50 | 23.93
1 Ro eae ee 28.39 | 32.00
phe SNe eee 36.89 | 27.15
Average..... 29.07 | 24.74
1 ore oe 32. a 37. 48
inimum....| 26.02 | 15.88
Average..... 31.55 | 55.79
10 Maximum 36. & 63. 82
| G60.50 | 14.10
Begs gee a Ts 39.10 | 25.50
16 Average..... 35. = 31. 24
9 8.5! isi!
pote Sar pe cea ita 14| 1.45

Pro-
teids,
amids,
ete.

a Abnormally high “ash content was due to a gypsum preparation with which the cheese was

zoated.
6 Green cheese.
¢ Caraway seed.

10415°—Bull. 146—11—=-5

66

VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

Analyses of cheese—Continued.

Milk
Number of tells sugars! Total | Salt in
A 3
Variety. Authority. analyses. Water.! Fat. ante ne aati, SEBEL
etc. eta u
Per ct. |Per ct.|Per ct. |Per ct. |Per ct. |Per ct.
Laguiol. 2. .)26-5..64 PWallfnd.......2 ) ors 34.50 | 25. 20 310) 6.150) Sa
Leicestershire......--- rrifnths. .... 22 Loscectosmeseee oe a = 00 zi. 86 | 5.21 4. Ss coterabareye
E 3: 7.28 | 27.93 5. 54 4.0: 1.03
Voeleker........ 2. eee ee eee ee eee {35 89 | 29.98 | 29.06 | 442/ 435] 191
Ley dens). 2-.2222<<=2) 4 Masyer <= ..:2 ts Vsesevbziacsicde 46.90 | 11.00 | 35.90 | 1.00] 5.2 1. 40
Average..... 35. 64 | 29.82 | 28.53 |....-.- 5. 98) |eeeee
Limburg—American...} Arnold......... 4 Maximum -.-| 48.60 | 34.98 | 35.05 |......- 6.69: s|-c eae
Minimum... .:| 23.26 | 21°29") 23.58 |....... 482" Mosse
Johnson. ....... lpSqaewabeisonccc 42.12 | 29.40 | 23.00 -38 | 5.10} 3.51
Livarotes ..s2s255--% Balland........ hee yrs casos nee. 33.80 | 21.95 | 31.76 | 8.05 | 4.44 |.__....
Gindet:-:.. 2s... Meroe ens Samer 52, 20))) 155001425: 90 | eesere 4. 40 2.90
Mainz Hand........--- von Klenze..... iis SEAM RRS ve He: 745)! “OP 0o" | oleae le oeeee 3288) Ieee eee
Maroilles..........---- Lindet........-- Py eR Seeks 4030") 33; 501) 205205|52neaee 4.50 3.30
Payer -<2.2- heseksesrts esas i 2 me ke 23. 7 Pets ac Do a MR
é Fi 5 8.14 |e See 508 “| centre
Mascarpone....-...-.-- Fascetti....-.-- De onnisetade se { 43.38 | 49.50| 7.62 |....... i | eee
Mont-d’Or ....55----<2 Balland........ ho See i Fee 43.20 | 23.97 | 20.10 | 8.84] 3.89 |.......
133) 66 (2) ee SS eS = : ps ud 25.00" Te "e 5, ad : be 1.90
= . 40 H 16. 86 . 88 Se! pl ese
Mianster.<..i.00.5-.0 Balland:....-). << 22 2555 {3 50 | 29.83 | 18.17 9.75 Nan) a
Windet-..-.::--: 1s 2 eee oe a ee 52, 40} 24.40) |.45.50 |. <--2.2 5.00 3.70
Average..... 23.57 | 16.26 | 8.88 | 44.84 | 4.76 ).......
Mynsosta2. 5 «acceso Wenlsis 223 64Maximum ...| 26. 49 | 20.98 | 10.78 | 53.03 | 6.09
Minimum....} 18.58 | 9.63 | 6.79 | 30.75 | 3.28
Voelcker.......-. 1 RE Coa Gum 24.21 | 20.80] 9.06 | 41.01 | 4.92
Average..... 29.43 | 4.08 | 7.66 | 53.24] 5.75
Werenskiold...- 20{ Maximurn ...| 38.01 | 10.54 | 9.19 | 61.38 | 6.38
Minimum....| 24.37 .07 | 6.34] 46.00 | 5.06
50.80 | 25.15 | 17.60} 5.12] 1.33
Neufchatel.........--.- Balland::...< 2-25 Dias dase t pita cepatoe {ei 80 | 20.59 | 14.43 5.98 4,20
Blyth oss kee sine 5 ; é
von Klenze....- 5 A
IM SirGia <5. 71a ; i
PAV OM aise oe erie : ;
Neufchaétel—American.| Arnold........- ; :
JORMSON....'. 2552 : 7
Nogelost .............. Pah .6. 3 4 ;
Voelcker.......- é ;
Olivel.i: GL ie.. 28 Balland........ | f :
Olmtits#e. 25. 0. . 5.8 Homips.. .o2.25 : x
Soxhlet... ...5.<: 3 ;
Parmestins . .). ec. - 2.2 Diy 6X0) (3 pee . 5
Chattaway. -..-| : 43.
Duclaux.......- ; ‘
Bindét....-. 2.24 “ :
Manetti.......- : ,
Patrick (2) ..... : ;
Payen. <...5A/.0% i ; ;
Soxhlet. ..-..... 5 5 a
Pecorvinoy. 2/5 <5 2). <'-. 3-5 Sartor. 2.25. : : ;
Petit Suiisse........... Bindét 2.2% : i é
Pineapple -..2.....---2 Glarks- 25i5-22-4 ; c i ;
Average..... 24.07 | 38.12 | 29.35 | 2.49 | 5.69 2.24
Johnson.......- Maximum . 30.95 | 45.20 | 34.45 | 2.75] 6.18 2.61
Pp Minimum 11.62 | 33.26 | 27.00 | 2.16} 5.10 1.86
Pont-l’Evéque........ Arnold.2. . 2.22 1 eer tae ere eae 44.57 | 21.80 | 30.36 |-...-.-- 3:97 |eeaeeee
Balland........ fe ots cteeecn atom 46.40 | 25.00 | 20.32 | 6.68] 1.60 ]....-..
Bmdeb. 52.5.2. . 1 ee eee ae 51.00 | 23.10 | 17.80 |....-.- 4.00 1.90
Pont-l’Hyéque—
American. 322.../.2 Arviold =... 3.5.22 Ae Po oo en 26.02 | 50.80 | 20.64 |....... 2. 54 | ieee
Port du'Salut........2 Balisnd:. 2.252. f ees se 97°70 | 35.10 | 31.16 |" 2.041 40000) Seaeeee
Ducl 9 \f47.51 | 25.93 | 22.56-}...---. 4.00} 1.90
J i SE oa Sic 48.02 | 24.00 | 24.29 |....-.- 3.69 | 1.56
Lindet.scc0.352 | ER 38:10 | 24.50 | 24.80 |-.--. 28 5.30 2.20
Wollepsc. seeks dsce. EN 46.46 | 26.31 | 23.66 !....... 3.67 1.31

VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

Analyses of cheese—Continued.

67

Variety. Authority.
Potted—
American Club
HGUse... 0... see = Weems........-
Imperial... sss... --' Weems... <2 23.3
Royal Paragon....| Weems........-
UB DACM eo acesee moe -- Hoffmann.....-.
HGH DIONE ce wee oc--- = oe Cornalba.......
MEplocHOn. .......-.---- Minget: sce ses
Reindeer milk......--- Werenskiold..-..
Romadour.........---- Hornig s. <2. 26
von Klenze.....
i 6780.0) Se eee
Patrick (2).-...-
Wiethe J. .3.22-2$
OMUCIUEE 5-22 0205.-5 ATROW oa. = 2 scree
Ballard. -.22:.::
Dell sash schss:
Chattaway.-.
EPOTIME aia b= 2;
JOHNSON... 65 2='
von Klenze.....
Dindet....----- Ss
WWNUIPGN 12 5 2 = nels
Patriek (2) .--.-
Payen2us-eese-
Sieber... 2/222.
PIO OR Ene: erste ie sin’=.<1a =~! Sartoriics<c-
Sartoriei2.. 2-26
Sato ese tee Hoffmann....--
Pereira...--.-.-
SU) SE 06 Cree eee IATNOLEM jor5cce%c
Benecke....-..--
von Klenze.....
SOV) S SOC R Re See eee Balland: 2 .c--s-
Septmoncel...........- Ballandes:. ---=-
Serra da Estrella....--. Bt iMer.sesee.
Hofimann.....-
IPGteira.... sj<s2s5-
MORVIGDoR. 5. <carcee0 3 OLD aa esate
Sh RIGT ES A ane eae OeE ae Benecke.......-
EU OR ayers wegen ote nie = Chattaway....-.
Grimths=..... <2:
j5 Uni eee
MUtBES 2 S522
Patrick (2): ....
Voelcker.......-
Swiss—American...... WATHIONGS 5 sou cess
Haeckers2 555%
PORNSOM 2. cies ece
Swiss—Russian....... Kalantarow....
Swiss—Swedish....... Wares oo = cts =
MGSHCL Foi nie wince enaciossn Maperse.:--2.--

a From cow’s milk,

Piro Milk
Number of teids, Sugal,) Motal | Salt in
analyses. Water.) Fat. |, mias, yas ash. | ash.
etc. “4
etc.

Per ct. |Per ct.|Per ct.|Per ct.|Per ct.\Per ct.
les. sbdenc ede 38.98 (S400 2h.13) |. ccces2 1,49 GOT.
Pererr rere 30-63 | 33:30. 26.88 |......- ge ear ae
jhe 5 uaasaeeee S258 | alse Wi2T. 14 |. 25223 yh lS pe ea
| errr re Pe ot 16. 45 | 37.36 | 35.00 2.93 8. 26 2. 42
2 (7. 56) 25.2550) 99.99) |. vo... 7.90 5.80

SP Tee ee 45.36.) d0s50 20 20 | .c.c0-| 3.73 1.22
Bs 5 ea RSE eee 53. 20)| 20: 507) 39:30 |=... 2-:| 3: 70 1. 80
1 Ne eee ee | 27.70 | 43.11 | 23.7 297}: 2a et ee
9 (56.60 | 17.05 | 18.76 . 81 OAS peso saa
Oe atts a 2a as oe \51.21 | 9.16 | 33. 60 . 02 6: Olaf.
1 Ae ey 43.21 TO 56 SOMS lees. 32 (ORL TA ies eee
| A ene 60. 40 | 11.90 | 19.60 |.....-- 5. 60 3.90
gree tee ee 55.16 | 14.76 | 26.05 }...---. DgAT | recictate
44.55 | 16.16 | 32.72 6.57 5. 80

| 4
eee cee GR) Ae | eae SOTO BLOF | ShO2) oo cacc =
43. 80 | 36. 46 8.66 | 10.36 Bi? Aan Cee Oee
DOP sRURS Joes 42.48 | 31.64 | 13.61 | 11. 49 how Sea ee a
AB"9O) 131-90) 122944) 10) 751 AO esses.
be rs 76, 25 178 | 11.387 5. 28 5. 32 2. 49
- §54.37 | 25.84 | 13.63 2.96 | 3.20 2.04
Sige ta ees, Fae 145.81 | 27.80 | 15.16 | 5.97) 5.26) 3.17
es ae als aioe ee 1320) Phos Bou odeooe | samee ote iE any (alle ee oe
es eee he eee 47. 02 6260!) (37-06 le -<0=2 10. 10 7. 53
Pee. Se oS ees Ssatiz, | es27: Abies oiaose BU Soules seein
2 {io 40 | 5.90 | 28.84] 9.38] 3.48 |...--...
a eee, Pot 49.70 | 6.45 | 27.32 | 12.53 400) Vhcncis
1 ORO eee 28.20 | 31.25 | 32.06 3.99 BIS Nene acee
Average ..... 43.58 | 27.69°| 22.02 |. 2.69 | 4.00 |......-
5/Maximum ...| 47.98 | 34.56 | 24.03 | 6.13 | 4.35 j......-
Minimum. ...} 35.22 | 19.70 | 20.40 | 1.55 | 3.51 |......-
1 Ao eer ee eee 31.87 | 40.05 | 22.18 | 2.24] 3.66 . 89
Average ....- 39. 34 | 27.93 | 23.48 | 3.93] 5.79 2. 57
12)Maximum ...| 50.07 | 37.93 | 32.10] 6.78} 8.96 5. 26
Minimum....| 24.38 | 19.30 | 17.83 -78| 3.23 .94
Average....- 53.99 | 19.30 | 21.32 | 2.63) 3.30 1. 86
14Maximum 68. 84 | 32.20 | 32.37] 5.12 4.81 3.13
Minimum. . 42.10 | 7.77 | 14.66 .85 | 2.40 93
seattiaieeinac aces 28.14 | 33.69 | 30.78 | 2.55} 7.38 4, 46
49; 40") 42,20) 1: 21,.10 jo 22. a < ZEUS Sates See
Deccw Soap eseeene P20) | 40180) 26930!) |eerecicme 2200) fess 28
25.00 | 34.60 | 28.40 |..-...- Cts eee
1 Es eS ee 31,22) | 87.24 | 24.98 | S40.) 93.86... 5. -
1 Se ee Tees S137. |d0s58, |2¢u00r|seneee- B39) once
1 Se ae eee 28.60 | 30.70 | 35. 60 1.08 | 4.02 7é
gs ete ers, antercpaiacs 32.97. || 39:03: |): 23.19) |Reseeee SO ae eee
2 (oo. 18 | 37.36 | 24.31 2.22 | 3.93 . 89
aga age oer 20527) | 4ssO8nlessrmomemecees tie ae .29
Wace heels a sees 38. 51. | 24:84 | 32.02) |... rt (Un eee
AU, AB | 20:03. | 22. 13] 2:90 | 3.34}. 22.22.
Bie tasetetnc ss} 55.91 | Sap 2b es 82) Sade: |) 3.060 1.--2. 2.
38. 40 | 32.40 | 22.88 | 3.24) 3.48 |......-
Dre ser 33.79 | 33.25 | 26.12 | 1.77 | 5.07 1.85
Average..... 32.74 | 32.26 | 24.85] 4.43 5.78 2. 67
5/Maximum...} 35. 44 | 37.20 | 28.81 6.90 | 7.44 4.78
Minimum....| 29,80 | 28.97 | 20. 57 .57 | 4.36 1.45
29.34 | 36.44 | 23.20] 6.11 raf (otal eee
| isk, shetelae Seton 38. 64 | 29.13 | 23.21 4,36": 24539) eSsee
36.02 | 32.05 | 24.76 | 4.59 | 2.39 }.......
D Bees etre Ae 54. 40 | 18.30 | 20.10 1.40) 5.80 3. 40

>’ From sheep’s milk,

ec Green cheese.

68 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

Analyses of cheese—Continued,

P Milk

; Number of teids, | S482)! Total | Salt in
Variety. Authority. analyses. Water.| Fat. ami dl 8, pee ash. ‘| gene

y | ete.
Per ct. |Per ct. |Per ct. Per ct. Per ct. |Per ct.
Thenay, 22422) 2 eee (2)00 ee Toad 2 2 Saoageeeee 30.14 | 15.00 | 18.12 |.--.... 6.10 4.80
‘Toplemt sess chee a ae Loni see eae it "72.44 |. 6.22 | 16.91 | 3.07 | Ashes
mubpner...- 62.22 [Pease ca = 60.27 | 7.33 | 24.84 | 3.54] 4.02 |./.-2.-
TTApDish! se: seeeesceee Adametz......- ieee cece: 45.90 | 26.10 | 23.30 |....-.- 4/00) ee
Troyes 0 be «bh asbdeuoe8 Tindetst.: 24044 i eee ee aren - 58.70 | 18.60 | 14.60 |......-. 4.80 3.70
Wacherine = 2. ca5csc-2 Benecke.....-.- eee eee ae 54.02 | 23.74 | 18.98 | 2.04] 3.08 ne 7
indie: 2 ae Ths ee ene 45.87 || (27220 Boers sense 1: 632)0 ee
Average....-- 48.69 | 20.90) }/27.97 }......- 4. 43 2.79
Vent 6mese.-- 2-27. 5 <6 Pallot. t= cc-34 6{Maximum....| 56.33 | 30.61 | 45.52 |....... 5.58 3. 68
Minimum..... 29.63, |, 10::80))}) T7274) eee 3.10 2.08
Witerbomcee cues cscs Sartoren. ose oe 1 eerie cre eae 28. 50 | 30.93 | 34.19 |....... 6.38 5.03
A-verage...--. 42.99 | 17.02 | 31.19 | 3.79 | 4.94 |..._..-
VOrarlberg. . 2.00260 Eugling.......- 9;Maximum ....| 55.85 | 31.99 | 40.11 | 7.21} 6.89 |......-.
Minimum. ..-- e A - 25,65)| 18) a5gomeeaeeee
6. 36.42) |. s2cco4 PB i eas 5
von Klenze..... Bowen wenn noe 5).58 | 4.56 | 42.37 |......- 2 4 te
31.97 | 29.08 | 27.43 | 7.16] 4.36 72
Warwickshire......... Voelcker........ fe ER et 33. 61 | 30.04 | 29.70 | 1.95] 5.60 2.78
33. 53 | 30.89 | 28.19 | 2.84] 4.55 1.12
Wensleydale..........- Chattaway..... L ee ee 28..a0).| 338. 80120. 20) |... 8-8 S10 ecere
Wiltshire .3::% 55. 07088 Gritiiths:=..2..-: De cade 37.23 | 27.82 | 26.52 | 3.88 | 4.55 |......-
Sones=-22 5. Sse 2 | Sees 5 36. 34 | 28.00 | 31.12 |......- 4,420 o. ee
34. 44 | 28.71 | 29.00 | 3.60] 4.25 1.03
Voelcker........ ictcin, alcteein eee tater 39.22 | 19.26 | 34.22 | 2.28] 5.02 . 60
\40. 07 | 25. 55 | 26. 81 2.24} 5.33 1. 41
88. BL | 3: 15 4-22.13 | 3.97 | Basie
ZAGOL os Pics pacinemeessoe Eugling......-.- Be cs.oeecp pees 74.74 | 4.33 | 14.99 | 3.93 | 2.02 |.......
\es.47 | 5.22| 18.72 | 3.97] 3.62 |.......
von Klenze..... i Rae Bai te 31.00 | 3.48 | 64.62 |....-.. Ohi ee eee

SOURCES OF ANALYTICAL DATA."

1. ADAMETZ, L.
Ueber die Herstellung und Zusammensetzung des bosnischen Trappis-

tenkiises. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 21, No. 19, p. 310-318. Bremen, May
Me OOM
2. ARNOLD, L. B.
Cheese and cheese making. American Dairymen’s Association, 14th
Annual Report, for the year ending Jan. 15, 1879. Utica, N. Y., 1879.
See p. 145.
Translated abstract. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 8, No. 82, p. 468-470, Aug.
6; No. 33, p. 484, Aug. 13; No. 34, p. 500-502, Aug. 20. Bremen, 1879.
See p. 502,
3. BALLAND, A.
Les aliments. Paris, 1907. See vol. 2, p. 287-248.
4, BELL, JAMES.
The analysis and adulteration of foods. 2 parts. Illus. 20 cm. Lon-
don, 1881. See also citations 15, 49, 53, 54.
5. BENECEE, F., and Scuuuze, E.
Untersuchungen iiber den Emmenthaler Kiise und tiber einige andere
schweizerische Kiisesorten. Landwirtschaftliche Jahrbiicher, vol. 16,
p. 317-400. Berlin, 1887. See p. 388, 378.

6. BLADES, CHARLES M.
Cheshire cheese. The Analyst, vol. 19, p. 181-138. London, June, 1894.

7. Buin, HENRI.
L’industrie fromagére en Loir-et-Cher. Le fromage de Thenay. Jour-
nal d’Agriculture Pratique, ann. 61, vol. 2, No. 49, p. 876-879. Paris,
Dec. 9, 1897.
8. BLyTH, ALEXANDER WYNTER, and BLYTH, MEREDITH WYNTER.
Foods; their composition and analysis. 5th ed. London, 1903. See
p. 306.
9. Bocarzp, B.
Hine Analyse der Gislev-kiise. Ugeskrift for Landmiind, II, No. 20, 1890.
Abstract. Biedermann’s Centra!blatt fiir Agrikulturchemie, Jahrg. 20,
p. 287. Leipzig, 1891.
10. Brtnnicy, J. C.
Analyses of cheese and butter manufactured at the Queensland Agricul-
tural College, Gatton. Queensland Agricultural Journal, vol. 9, No.
4, p. 424-428. Brisbane, Oct., 1901.
11. [Btrrner, C.]
See citation 58.

12. [CALDWELL
Alpwirthschaftliche Monatsblitter, p. 158. 1877.] See citation 39, p. 325.

1 References inclosed in brackets have not been consulted in the original.

69

70

13.

14.

15.

16.

ate

21.

22.

23.

24,

25.

26.

28.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

CHATTAWAY, WM.; PEARMAIN, T. H.; and Moor, C. G.
On the composition of cheese. The Analyst, vol. 19, p. 145-147. London,
July, 1894.
The composition of some English cheeses. The Analyst, vol. 20, No.
231, p. 1382-134. London, June, 1895.
CLARE, R. D.
Report on Cheese. New York State Dairy Commissioner, 3rd Annual Re-
port for 1886. Albany, 1887. See p. 50, 62.
Composition of Canadian cheese. Ibid., 5th Annual Report for the year
1888. Albany, 1889. See p. 422.
Ibid., 7th Annual Report for the year 1890. Albany, 1891. See p. 300.

. COOKE, W. W., and Huts, J. L.

Making cheese from different qualities of milk. Vermont Agricultural
Experiment Station, 5th Annual Report [for] 1891. Burlington, 1892.
See p. 90.
CoRNALBA, G.

I formaggini dilecco. L’ Industria Lattiera e Zootecnica, vol. 5, No. 5, p.
35. Reggio-Emilia, March 1, 1907.

. I formaggi molli di lusso. II] coltivatore, vol. 58, No. 49, p. 718-717. Casale

Monferrato, Dec. 8, 1907.

Crips, CEcIL H.
Note on Dutch cheese. The Analyst, vol. 81, No. 861, p. 105-111. Lon-
don, Apr., 1906.

DAHL.
Ueber Norwegens Natur, Rindviehhaltuhg und Molkereiwirthschaft.
Milchzeitung, Jahrg. 1, No. 16, p. 185-191, May 15; No. 18, p. 205-212,
June, 15. Danzig, 1872. See p. 210.

DREW, CHARLES W.
Report upon cheese. Minnesota State Dairy and Food Commissioner,
8rd Biennial Report. Minneapolis, 1890. See p. 235.

Ductavx, Pierre EMILE.
Le lait. 2d ed. Paris, 1894. See p. 259-311.
EuGLiInG, WM., and KLENZE, VON.
Versuche auf dem gebiete der alpenwirthschaft. Milch-zeitung, Jahrg. 7,
No. 11, p. 141-148, Mar. 18; No. 12, p. 157-160, Mar. 20, 1878; Jahreg.
9, No. 40, p. 597-599, Oct. 6, 1880. Bremen, 187S—S0.
[Bericht tiber die Thitigkeit der Versuchsstatzon des Landes vorarlberg.
1875-6. Bregenz. p. 12.] See citation 38, p. 331.
{ Fallot.
Premier Congrés International Hygiene Alimentaire, 4th sec., Paris, 1905.
Analyses made at Laboratory, Loir-et-Cher, Blois, France. ]

. FASCETTI, G.

Preparazione e composizione del formaggio lombardo alla crema denomi-
nato ‘‘Mascarpone.” Annuario della Reale Stazione Sperimentale di
Caseificio di Lodi, ann. 1902. Lodi, 1903. See p. 71.

[ FLEISCHMANN, W.
Bericht tiber die Wirksamkeit der milchwirtschaftlichen Versuchs-stationen
und des Molkarei—Institutes Raden, 1880, p. 84; 1884, p. 80; Rostock,
1881, 1885.] See citation 39, p. 334.

. GOESMANN, C. A.

Massachusetts State Agricultural Experiment Station, Amherst, 6th An-
nual Report, 1888. Boston, 1889, See p. 239.

30.

31.

382.

33.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. val

GriFFiTHs, A. B.
Analyses de quelques fromages d’Angleterre. Bulletin de la Société
Chimique de Paris, ser. 3, vol. 7, p. 282-2838. Paris, 1892.
Harcker, T. L.
Manufacture of sweet curd cheese. Minnesota Agricultural Experiment
Station, Bulletin No. 35, p, 104-128. St. Anthony Park, Oct., 1894.
See p. 115, 122, 127.
HaASSsAL, ARTHUR HILL.
Food: its adulterations and the methods for their detection. London,
1876. See p. 450.
HorrMann, M.
Die milchwirtschaftlichen Verhiiltnisse Portugals. Milch Zeitung., Jahrg.
27, No. 13, p. 197-199. Bremen, Mar. 26, 1898.

34. [Hornia.
Beitriige zur Geschichte, Technik und Statistik der Kiiserei. Wien, 1869,
p. 40.7 See citation 39, pp. 327, 329, 330, 335, 341.
35. JOHNSON, S. W.

36.

37.

39.

40.

41,

43.

Analyses of some American cheese. Connecticut Agricultural Experiment
Station, Annual Report., 1892. New Haven, 1898. See p. 156.
{ JONES. ]
Cited from White, Henry. Report on the exhibition of cheese at Chester
in July, 1858. Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, vol. 19, p.
420. London, 1858.

[KALANTAROW, A. VON.

Ueber die chemsche Zusammensetzung einiger russischer Kiise. Journal
Russian Physico-chemical Society, vol. 14, section 1, pp. 155,156. St.
Petersburg, 1882. Cited from Berichte der deutschen echemischen
gesellschaft, Jahrg. 15, Jan.—_June, p. 1220. Berlin, 1882.

. KLENZE, H. L. Von.

Versuche tiber die Verdaulichkeit verschiedener Kisesorten. Milch

Zeitung, Jahrg. 14, No. 24, p. 869-878. Bremen, June 10, 1885.
KoENIG, FRANZ JOSEPH.

Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel. 4. aufl. Berlin,

1903. See vol. 1, 321, 335.
Krutcer, R.

Beitrige zur Herstellung kamambertartiger Weichkiise. Molkerei Zeitung,
Jahrg. 6, No. 838, p. 402. Hildesheim, Aug. 13, 1892. [In this paper
Kriiger refers to previous papers of his in the same periodical. ]

LEUTNER, W.

Krutt, ein von den Kirgisen bereiteter Kise. Pharmaceutische Zeitschrift
fiir Russland, Jahrg. 24, No. 1, pp. 8-9. St. Petersburg, Jan. 6, 1885.
Cited also in Chemikey Zeitung, Jahrg. 9, No. 14, p. 254. Cdéthen, Feb.
15, 1885.

. LLINDET, AMMANN, and BRUGIERE.

Sur la composition des principaux fromages consommés en France. Revue

Générale du Lait, Ann. 5, No. 18, pp. 416-418. Lierre, June 30, 1906.
[Linpt, O., and MUtier, C.

Analysen verschiedener schweizerischer Kiisesorten. General-bericht
liber die erste schweizerische Milchproduktenausstellung in Bern, 1.
bis. 11. Sept. 1867, von R. Schatzman.]

Abstract Jahresbericht iiber die Fortschritte auf dem Gesammtgebiete der
Agrikuitur-Chemie, Jahrg. 10, pp. 854-455. Berlin, 1868. See also cita-
tion 39, pp. 324, 327, 331, 333.

72

44,

45.

46.

47.

48,

49.

52.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE,

Iaoyn, F. J.
Observations on Cheddar cheese-making. Report, 1893. Journal of the
Bath and West and Southern Counties Society, ser. 4, vol. 4, 1898-4,
pp. 1381-175. London, 1894. See p. 161.
MACOIR, LOUIS.

L’industrie fromagére en Franche-Comté. Bulletin de l’Agriculture, vol.
.20, pp. 876-441. Bruxelles, 1904. See p. 390.

Maceroga, ARNALDO.

Ueber die Zusammensetzung des tiberreifen Kises. Archiv fiir Hygiene,

vol. 14, No. 2, pp. 216-224. Miinchen-und Leipzig, 1892. See p. 220.
{Maror, G.

Die tzigaja-race, ihre Higenschaften und ihre wirtschaftliche Nutsbarkeit.
Inaug.-diss. Halle, 1887.] Cited from Thiele, Paul. EHiniges tiber
Schafkiisefabrikation in Siebenbiirgen. Milch. Zeitung, Jahrg. 26, No.
46, pp. 727-729. Bremen, Nov. 3, 1897.

Mawertti, L., and Musso, GIOVANNI.

Sulla composizione dei caci di grana. Le Stazioni Sperimentali Agrarie
Italiani, vol. 5, fase. 3, pp. 174-201. Torino, 1876. See p. 187.

Ueber die Zusammensetzung und die Reife des Parmesankiises. Die
Landwirtschaftlichen Versuchs-Stationen, vol. 21, pp. 211-229. Berlin
1878. See p. 215.

(Martin, Ep. W., and Moorr, R. W.]
See citation 14, p. 45.

. Maver, ADOLF.

Analysen von holliindischen Kiisesorten. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 26, No. 5,
p. 87. Bremen, Feb. 2, 1887.
Merikorr, P. G., and ROSENBLATT, M.
Le brynsa, fromage russe de lait de brebis. Journal d’Agriculture
Pratique, ann. 71, n. s., vol. 14, No. 52, p. 814-815. Paris, Dec. 26, 1907.

53. Musso, GIovANNI, and MENozzi, A.

5D.

57.

58.

59.

Sulla composizione degli stracchini. Le Stazioni Sperimentali Agrarie
Italiani, 1877, vol. 6, fasc. 4, p. 201-206. Torino, 1878.

. [Mourer, J.]

See citation 14, p. 44, 50, 52.
Patrick, G. BH.
(1) Changes during cheese ripening. Iowa Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tion, Bulletin 24, p. 970. Ames, 1894.
(2) Unpublished data. Analyses made in U. 8S. Department of Agricul-
ture, 1901. Samples collected by H. E. Alvord in-Eurepe.

PAYEN, A.
Composition de plusieurs substances alimentaires. Journal de Pharmacie,
et de Chimie, ser. 3, vol. 16, p. 279. Paris, 1849.
Précis théorique et pratique des substances alimentaires. 4th ed., 1865.
See p. 190-213.
Perera, A. Carposo, and MASsTsAuM, HUGO.
Technisches und Analytisches iiber die Kaseindustrie in Portugal. Chem-
iker Zeitung, Jahrg. 28, No. 84, p. 998-1000. Céthen, Oct. 19, 1904.
RICHMOND, HENRY DRoopP.
Dairy chemistry; a practical handbook for dairy chemists and others
having control of dairies. London, 1899. See p. 303.

VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 73

60. [RoLuet.]
See citation 45, p. 390, 413.
61. Ruspner, M.
Analyse des sog. Topfens. Zeitschrift fiir Biologie, vol. 15, p. 496. Miin-
chen, 1879.
62. SARTORI, GIUSEPPE.
Sulla composizione della ricotta pecorina. Le Stazioni Sperimentali
Agrarie Italiani, vol. 18, fase. 4, aprile, p. 454-436. Asti, May 6, 1890.
63. Analisi del caciocavallo. Nota preliminare. Ibid., vol. 22, fase. 4, aprile,
p. 337-340. Asti, April, 1892.
64, Die chemie des Schafkises. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg., 19, No. 51, p. 1001—
1004. Bremen, Dec. 17, 1890.
65. [SHELDON, JOHN PRINCE.

Prize essay on cheese making, etc. Newcastle-under-Lyme, 1876.] See
citation 39, p. 326.

66. SHUTTLEWORTH, A. E.
The composition of milk, cheese, and whey in relation to one another.
Ontario Agricultural College, Guelph, Ontario, Bulletin 96. Toronto,
Aug. 16, 1894.
67. Annual report of the professor of chemistry. Ontario Agricultural Col-
lege and Experiment Farm, 21st Annual Report, 1895. Toronto, 1896.
See p. 25.

68. SIEBER, NADINA.
Ueber die angebliche Umwandlung des Hiweisses in Fett beim Reifen
des Roqguefort-Kises. Journal fiir Praktische Chemie, n. f., vol. 21, p.
203-221. Leipzig, 1880.
69. SNYDER, Harry.
The composition of dairy products. Minnesota Agricultural Experiment
Station, Bulletin 27, p. 50-62. St. Anthony Park, Feb., 1893. See p. 60.
70. [Soxu et, F.
Erster Bericht tiber Arbeiten der K. K. Landwirthschaftlich-Versuchs-
stationen, Wien, vol. 29, [for] 1870-78, Wien, 1878.] See citation 39, p.
322, 335.
71. Spica, MATTEO, and BLASi, LUIGI DE.
Ricerche chimiche sui formaggi siciliani. Le Stazioni Sperimentalit Agra-
rie Italiani, vol. 28, fase. 2, agosto, p. 182-153. Asti, Sept. 25, 1892.
See p. 148. ,
72. [Storcu, V.
Forschungen auf dem Gebiete der Viehhaltung, 1879, p. 166—-232.} See
citation 39, p. 333.
73. Srurzpr, A.
Die chemische Untersuchungen der Kiise. Zeitschrift fiir Analytische
Chemie, Jahrg. 35, p. 493-502. Wiesbaden, 1896. See p. 502.
74. Van SLYKE, Lucius LINCOLN.
Investigation of cheese. New York Agricultural Experiment Station,
n. s., Bulletin 87. Geneva, Nov., 1891.
T5. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during May. Ibid., Bulletin
43, June, 1892.
76. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during June. Ibid., Bulletin
45, Aug., 1892.

80.

87.

88.

89.

90.
91.

92.

93.

94,

VARIETIES OF CHEESE.

Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Bulletin 46, Sept.;
Bulletin 47, Nov., 1892.

Summary of results of experiments made in the manufacture of cheese
during the season of 1892. Ibid., Bulletin 50, Jan., 1893.

Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Bulletin 54, May; Bul-
letin 56, May; Bulletin 60, Oct.; Bulletin 61, Nov.; Bulletin 62, Dec.,
18938; Bulletin 65, Jan., 1894.

VIETE., P.

Mitteilungen aus dem Laboratorium der Aylesbury Dairy Company in
London. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 16, No. 7, p. 120-121. Bremen. Feb.
16, 1887.

Mitteilungen aus dem Laboratorium der Aylesbury Dairy Company in
London. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 21, No. 12, p. 191-192. Bremen, March
19, 1892.

Bericht tiber die Thitigkeit des milchwirtschaftlichen Instituts in Ha-
meln im Jabre 1897. Hannover, 1898. See p. 33.

VOELCKNER, AUGUSTUS. :
On the composition of cheese and on practical mistakes in cheese making.
Journal Royal Agricultural Society, vol. 22, p. 29-69. London, 1861.
Cheese experiments. Ibid., vol. 23, p. 170-191. London, 1862.
On a peculiar kind of Swedish whey cheese, and on a Norwegian goats’-
milk cheese. Ibid., ser. 2, vol. 6, p. 8383-836. London, 1870.
Amerikanischer Kiise aus magerer Milch mit Zusatz von Schmalz oder
Oleomargarin. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 11, No. 28, p. 488-489. Bremen,
July 12, 1882.
WALLACE, HENRY C.
Investigations in cheese making. Iowa Agricultural Experiment Station,
Bulletin 21, p. 735-767. Ames, 1898. See p. 756.

WEEMS, J. B.
Unpublished data. Analyses made at Iowa Agricultural College, 1896.
Samples furnished by J. H. Monrad.
WERENSKIOLD, FREDERIK H.
Aarsberetning angaaende de offentlige foranstaltninger til landbrugets
fremme i aaret 1885. Kristiania, 1886. See p. 78.
Ibid., [for] 1898. Kristiania, 1894. See p. 87.
Witson, N. E.
Cheese and cheese manufacture. Nevada Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tion, Bulletin 18, Reno, Nov., 1892.

ZEGA, A.
Kajmak. Chemiker Zeitung, Jahrg. 21, No. 6, p. 41. Céthen, Jan. 20,
1897.
Zeca, A., and Basic, M.

Katschkawalj. Chemiker Zeitung, Jahrg. 19, No. 85, p. 1920. Cdthen,
Oct. 28, 1895.
ZEGA, A., and PANIcs, L.
Serbischer Kiise. Chemiker Zeitung, Jahrg. 22, No. 18, p. 158. Céthen,
March 2, 1898.

INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE.

Abertam: Description, 7.

Albumin. See Ziger.

Alemtejo: Description, 7; analysis, 62.

Algau. See Limburg.

Algau Emmental. Sce Emmental.

Alpin: Description, 7.

Altenburg: Description, 7.

Alt Kuhkase. See Hand.

Altsohl. See Brinsen.

‘Ambert: Description, 7.

Ancien Impérial: Description, 7.

Ancona. See Pecorino.

Appenzell: Description, 7.

Arnauten. See Traynik.

Auvergne (or Auvergne Bleu).

Backstein (see also Limburg):
analysis, 62.

Banbury: Description, 8.

Barberey: Description, 8. :

Battlemat: Description, 8; analysis, 62.

Bauden: Description, 8.

Belgian Cooked: Description, 8.

Bellelay: Description, 8; analysis, 62.

Bellunese. See Emmental.

Bergquara: Description, 9.

Bergues. See Leyden.

Berliner Kuhkiise. See Hand.

Bleu (see also Gex; Sassenage; Septmoncel): De-
scription, 9.

Blue Dorset. See Dorset.

Bondon (see also Neufchatel): Analysis, 62.

Boudanne: Description, 9.

Boulette. See Maroilles.

Box (firm): Description, 9.

Box (soft): Description, 10.

Bra: Description, 10.

Brand: Description, 10.

Brick: Description, 10; analysis, 62.

Brickbat: Description, 11.

Brie: Description, 11; analysis, 62.

Brinsen: Description, 12; analysis, 62.

Briol. See Limburg.

Brizecon. See Reblochon.

Broccio (see also Ziger): Description, 12.

Brocotte. See Ziger.

Burgundy: Description, 12; analysis, 62.

Buttermilk: Description, 12.

Cacio. See Parmesan.

Cacio Pecorino Romano. See Pecorino.

Cacio Romano. See Chivari.

Caciocavello: Description, 12; analysis, 62.

Caerphilly: Description, 13; analysis, 62.

Cambridge: Description, 13; analysis, 62.

Camembert: Description, 13; analysis, 62.

Cancoillotte. Sce Fromage Fort.

See Cantal.
Description, 8;

Canquillote (see also Fromage Fort):
tion 14.

Cantal: Description, 14; analysis, 62.

Carinthian. See Limburg.

Carré Affiné. See Ancien Impérial.

Castello Branco. See Serra da Estrella.

Ceracee. See Ziger.

Champoléon: Description, 14.

Chaource: Description, 14.

Chasch6] de Chaschosis: Description, 15.

Cheddar: Description 15; analysis, 63.

Cheshire: Description, 16; analysis, 64.

Cheshire-Stilton: Description, 17.

Cheyret. See Goat’s Milk.

Chevrotin. See Goat’s Milk.

Chivari: Description, 17.

Clérimbert. See Alpin.

Club. See Potted.

Colmar. See Minster.

Commission: Description, 17.

Compiégne. See Camembert.

Contentin. See Camembert.

Cooked: Description, 17.

Cotherstone: Description, 17; analysis, 64.

Cotrone. Sce Pecorino.

Cottage: Description, 17.

Coulommiers: Description, 18; analysis, 64.

Cream: Description, 18; analysis, 64.

Cream, French Demi-sel: Analysis, 64.

Crescenza: Analysis, 64.

Creuse: Description, 18.

Cristalinna: Description, 18.

Daisies. See Cheddar.

Damen: Description, 18.

Danish Export: Description, 19; analysis, 64.

Dauphin. See Maroilles.

Delft. See Leyden.

Demi-sel. See Cream.

Derbyshire: Description, 19; analysis, 64.

‘Devonshire Cream: Description, 19.

Domestic Swiss. See Emmental.

Dorset: Description, 19; analysis, 64.

Dotter: Description, 20.

Dresdener Bierkise. See Hand.

Dry: Description, 20. ‘

Duel: Description, 20.

Dunlop: Description, 20; analysis, 64.

Dutch. See Cottage.

Edam: Description, 20; analysis, 64.

Elbing: Description, 21.

Emmental: Description, 21; analysis, 64.

Emmersdorf. See Limburg.

Engadine: Description, 23; analysis, 64.

English Dairy: Description, 23.

Epoisse: Description, 23.

Descrip-

76

Ervy (see also Troyes): Description, 23.

Farm: Description, 23.

Ferme. See Farm.

Filled: Description, 23.

Flats. See Cheddar.

Flower: Description, 24.

Fondue. See Fromage Fort.

Fontine d’ Aosta. See Emmental.

Formagelle: Description, 24.

Formaggie di Capra. See Goat’s Milk.

Formaggini: Description, 24.

Formaggini di Lecco: Analysis, 64.

Formaggio Dolce. See Emmental.

Formaggio Duro. See Nostrale.

Formaggio Grana Lodigiano. See Parmesan.

Formaggio Tenero. See Nostrale.

Fourme. See Cantal.

Fourme d’Ambert. See Ambert.

Freisa. See Cooked.

Fresco. See Stracchino.

Fromagére. See Canquillote; Fromage Fort.

Fromage ila Créme. See Cream.

Fromage 4 la Pie. See Farm.

Fromage Blane. See White.

Fromage Bleu. See Bleu.

Fromage Double Creme. See Cream.

Fromage de Boite. See Box (soft).

Fromage de Bourgogne. See Burgundy.

Fromage de Foin. See Hay.

Fromage de Troyes. See Barberey.

Fromage Fort: Description, 24.

Fromage Mou. See Maquée.

Fromage Persillé. See Gex; Bleu.

Gaiskisli. See Goat’s Milk.

Gammelost: Description, 24; analysis, 64.

Gautrais: Description, 24.

Gavot: Description, 24.

Geheimrath: Description, 25.

Géromé (see also Miinster): Description, 25.

Gervais (see also Cream): Description, 25; analy-
sis, 64.

Gex: Description, 25; analysis, 65.

Gislev: Description, 26; analysis, 65.

Glarnerkiise. See Sap Sago.

Gloire des Montagnes. See Damen.

Glumse: Description, 26.

Gloucester (see also Derbyshire): Analysis, 65.

Goat’s Milk: Description, 26; analysis, 65.

Gorgonzola: Description, 26; analysis, 65.

Gouda: Description, 27; analysis, 65.

Gournay: Description, 27.

Goya: Description, 27.

Grana. See Parmesan.

Granular Curd: Description, 28.

Gratairon. See Goat’s Milk.

Gray: Description, 28.

Grottenhof. See Limburg.

Gruau de Montagne. See Ziger.

Grunerkise. Sce Sap Sago.

Gruyére: Description, 28; analysis, 65.

Guiole. See Laguiole.

Giissing: Description, 28.

Hand: Description, 28.

Hartkiise. See Saanen.

Harz: Description, 29; analysis, 65.

Hay: Description, 29.

INDEX,

Hervé (see also Limburg): Analysis, 65.

Hobbe. See Leyden.

Hohenburg. See Box (firm).

Hohenheim: Description, 29.

Holstein Dairy Cheese. See Leather.

Holstein Health: Description, 29.

Holstein Skim-milk: Description, 30.

Holsteiner Gesundheits Kise: See Holstein Health.

Holsteiner Magerkise. See Holstein Skim-milk.

Hop: Description, 30.

Hopfen. See Hop.

Hudelziger. See Ziger.

Hvid Gjedeost: Description, 30.

Iglesias. See Pecorino.

Ihlefeld. See Hand.

Iha: Description, 30; analysis, 65.

Incanestrato: Description, 30; analysis, 65.

Isigny: Description, 30.

Jack: Description, 31.

Jochberg: Description, 31.

Josephine: Description, 31.

Jura. See Septmoncel.

Kajmak: Description, 31; analysis, 65.

Kascaval: Description, 31; analysis, 65.

Katschkawalj: Description, 31; analysis, 65.

Katzenkopf. See Edam.

Kirgischkiise. See Krutt.

Kjarsgaard: Description, 31.

Kloster: Description, 32.

Klencz. See Brinsen.

Knaost. See Pultost.

Koejekaars. See Leyden.

Kolos-Monostor: Description, 32.

Komynde. See Leyden.

Koppen: Description, 32.

Kosher: Description, 32.

Kosher Gouda: Description, 32.

Krauterkése. See Sap Sago.

Krutt: Description, 32; analysis, 65.

Kuhbach: Description, 32.

Laguiole: Description, 32;‘analysis, 66.

Lamothe. See Goat’s Milk.

Lanark. See Limburg.

Lancashire: Description, 33.

Landoch. See Brinsen.

Langres: Description, 33.

Lapland: Description, 33.

Larron. See Maroilles.

Latticini: Description, 33.

Leather: Description, 33.

Leder. See Leather.

Leicester (see also Derbyshire): Description, 34;
analysis, 66.

Leonessa. See Pecorino.

Leyden: Description, 34; analysis, 66.

Lindenhof. See Limburg.

Limburg» Description, 34; analysis, 66.

Liptau (see also Brinsen): Description, 35.

Livarot: Description, 35; analysis, 66.

Livlander. See Hand.

Long Horns. See Cheddar.

Lorraine: Description, 35.

Liineberg: Description, 35.

Maconnais: Description, 36.

Macqueline: Description, 36.

Maigre. See Farm.

Majocchina. See Incanestrato.

INDEX.

Maikise: Description, 36.

Mainz Hand: Description, 36; analysis, 66.

Malakoff (see also Neufchatel): Description, 36.

Manbollen. See Edam.

Manur: Description, 36.

Maquée: Description, 36.

Marianhof. Sce Limburg.

Markisch Hand: Description, 36.

Maroilles: Description, 37; analysis, 66.

Mascarpone: Description, 37; analysis, 66.

Mascarponi. See Ziger. :

Mecklenberg Skim: Description, 37.

Mignot: Description, 37.

Milano. See Stracchino.

Mondsee. See Box (firm).

Monk’s Head. See Bellelay.

Montasio: Description, 37.

Montavoner: Description, 38.

Mont Cenis: Description, 38.

Mont d’Or: Description, 38; analysis, 66.

Monterey. See Jack.

Monthléry: Description, 39.

Morin: See Limburg.

Mou. See Farm.

Mozarinelli: Description, 39.

Miinster: Description, 39; analysis, 66.

Mysost: Description, 39; analysis, 66.

Nessel: Description, 40.

Neufchitel: Description, 40; analysis, 66.

Neusohl. See Brinsen.

New Milk: Description, 40.

Niederungkiise. See Elbing.

Nieheim: Description, 40.

Nogelost: Analysis, 66.

Nostrale: Description, 41.

Oka. See Trappist.

Olimento. See Cream.

Olive Cream. See Cream.

Olivet: Description, 41; analysis, 66.

Olmiitzer Bierkise. Sce Hand.

Olmutzer Quargel (Olmiitz):

analysis, 66.

Paglia: Description, 41.

Pago: Description, 42.

Paneddas. See Cooked.

Parmesan: Description, 42; analysis, 66.

Paté Bleu. Sce Bleu.

Pavillon. See Camembert.

Pecorino: Description, 42; analysis, 66.

Pecorino Dolce. See Pecorino.

Pecorino Tuscano. See Pecorino.

Petit Carré. See Ancien Impérial; Neufch&tel.
~ Petit Suisse (see also Neufchitel): Analysis, 66.

Pimento. Sce Neuichitel.

Pepper Cream. See Neufchatel.

Pfister: Description, 43.

Philadelphia Cream: Description, 43.

Pimp. See Mainz Hand.

Pineapple: Description, 43; analysis, 66.

Poitiers. See Goat’s Milk.

Pont VPEyéque: Description, 44; analysis, 66.

Port du Salut: Description, 44; analysis, 66.

Potato: Description, 45.

Potted: Description, 45; analysis, 67.

Prattigau: Description, 45.

Prestost: Description, 45.

Primost. See Mysost.

Providence: Description, 45.

Description, 41;

77

Provole: Description, 45.

Provoloni. See Provole.

Puglia. See Pecorino.

Pultost: Description, 46.

Quadro. See Stracchino.

Quartirola. See Stracchino.

Queso de Cincho: Description, 46.

Queso de Hoja: Description, 46.

Queso de Mano: Description, 46.

Queso de Palma Metida. See Queso de Cincho.

Queso de Prensa: Description, 46.

Queso de Puno: Description, 47.

Queyras. See Champoléon.

Rabacal: Description, 47; analysis, 67.

Raden: Description, 47.

Rangiport: Description, 47.

Raper. See Rayon:

Raschera. See Nostrale.

Rayon: Description, 47.

Rebbiola: Description, 47; analysis, 67.

Rebiochon: Description, 47; analysis, 67.

Recuit. See Ziger.

Reggian. See Parmesan.

Reggiano. See Parmesan.

Reibk&se. See Saanen.

Reindeer Milk: Description, 48; analysis, 67.

Remoudou. See Romadour.

Rheinwald. Sce Schamser.

Ricotta (see alse Ziger): Analysis, 67.

Riesengebirge: Description, 48:

Rinnen: Description, 48.

Robiola. See Rebbiola.

Roll: Description, 48.

Rollot: Description, 48.

Romadour: Description, 48; analysis, 67.

Romano. Sce Pecorino.

Romatur. See Romadour.

Roquefort: Description, 48; analysis, 67.

Saaland Pfarr. See Pretost.

Saanen: Description, 49.

Sage: Description, 50.

Saint Benoit: Description, 50.

Saint Claude: Description, 50.

Saint Marcellin: Description, 50.

Saint Michels. See Limburg.

Saint Remy: Description, 50.

Saloio: Description, 50; analysis, 67.

Sandwich Nut. See Cream.

Sap Sago: Description, 50; analysis, 67.

Sassenage (see also Gex): Description, 51.

Satz. See Hand.

Savoy: Analysis, 67.

Scanno: Description, 51.

Scarmorze: Description, 51.

Schabzieger: See Sap Sago.

Schachtelkise. Sce Box (solt).

Schamser: Description, 51.

Schlesischer Sauermilchkiise. See Silesian.

Schlesischer Weichquarg. See Silesian.

Schloss: Description, 52.

Schottengsied: Description, 52.

Schtitzen. See Limburg.

Schwarzenberg: Description, 52.

Schweitzer. See Swiss.

Sénecterre: Description, 52.

Septmoncel (sce also Gex): Description, 52; anal-
ysis, 67.

Sérac. See Ziger.

78

Serra da Estrella: Description, 52; analysis, 67.

Servian: Description, 53; analysis, 67.
Siebenbiirgen. See Brinsen.
Silesian: Description, 53.

Siraz: Description, 53.

Slipcote: Description, 53.
Smear-case. See Cottage.

Sorte Maggenga. See Parmesan.
Sorte Vermenga. See Parmesan.
Soumaintrain. See Camembert.
Spalen: Description, 53; analysis, 67.
Sperrkiise. See Dry.

Spitz: Description, 54.

Squares. See Cheddar.

Steppes: Description, 54.

Stilton: Description, 54; analysis, 67.
Stirred Curd. See Cheddar.
Stracchino: Description, 55.
Stracchino di Gorgonzola. See Gorgonzola.
Strassburg. See Minster.

Stringer. See Spalen.

Styria: Description, 55.

Sweet Curd (see also Cheddar): Description, 55.

Swiss: Description, 55; analysis, 67.
Tafi: Description, 55.

Tamié: Description, 55.
Tanzenberg. See Limburg.
Tempéte. See Canquillote.

Tessel: Analysis, 67.

Téte de Maure. See Edam.

Téte de Moine. See Bellelay.
Texel: Description, 56.

Thenay: Description, 56; analysis, 68.
Thraanen. See Emmental.
Thuringia. See Hand.
Thury-en-Valois. See Camembert.
Tignard: Description, 56.

Tilsit: Description, 56.

INDEX.

Tome de Beaumont. See Tamié.

Tome de Montagne. See Vacherin.
Topfen (see also Cooked): Analysis, 68.
Toppen: Description, 56.

Trappist: Description, 56; analysis, 68.
Travnik: Description, 57.

Trouville: Description, 57.

Troyes: Description, 57; analysis, 68.
Trockenkise. See Dry.

Tuile de Flandre. See Maroilles.

Tuna: Description, 57.

Tworog: Description, 58.

Uri: Description, 58.

Vacherin: Description, 58; analysis, 68.
Vendome: Description, 58; analysis, 68.
Villiers: Description, 58.

Viterbo (see also Pecorino): Analysis, 68.
Vlasic. See Traynik.

Void: Description, 58.

Vorarlberg Sour-milk: Description, 59; analysis, 68.
Walliskise. See Saanen.

Warwickshire (see also Derbyshire): Analysis, 68.
Washed Curd. See Cheddar.
Weihenstephan. See Box (firm).
Weisslak: Description, 59.

Wensleydale: Description, 59, analysis, 68.
West Friesian: Description, 59.
Westphalia Sour-milk: Description, 59.
Werderkise. See Elbing.

White: Description, 60.

Wiltshire (see also Derbyshire): Analysis, 68.
Withania: Description, 60.
Yorkshire-Stilton. See Cotherstone.
Young Americas. See Cheddar.

Ziegel: Description, 60.

Ziegenkiise. See Goat’s Milk.

Ziger: Description, 60; analysis, 68.

Zips. See Brinsen.

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