7 (

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

THE VEGETABLE
GARDEN

THE VEGETABLE
GARDEN

ILLUSTRATIONS, DESCRIPTIONS, AND

CULTURE OF THE GARDEN VEGETABLES

OF COLD AND TEMPERATE CLIMATES

BY MM. VILMORIN-ANDRIEUX, OF PARIS

ENGLISH EDITION, PUBLISHED UNDER

THE DIRECTION OF W. ROBINSON

AUTHOR OF "THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN"
"THE PARKS OF PARIS," ETC.

WITH AN ADDENDUM
BY W. P. THOMSON

THIRD EDITION

NEW YORK
E. P. BUTTON AND COMPANY

1920

PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION

DURING the years of the War, vegetable growing received a decided
stimulus, and in preparing a new edition of "THE VEGETABLE
GARDEN " it has been thought advisable to include the new
material in the form of an Addendum, to which references will be
found in the form of footnotes in the body of the work.

A list of the newer varieties of our well-known vegetables —
Peas, Potatoes, Cabbage, etc., is given with notes on their
cultivation.

, Descriptions of some really distinct new vegetables, as the
White Sunroot (Jerusalem Artichoke), Daw's Champion Rhubarb,
etc., have been added. In the case of Onions, no mention was
made in the earlier edition of the handsome bulbs that are now to
be seen at vegetable exhibitions during the autumn. How to raise
and grow these form the subject of one of the added paragraphs ;
while the various diseases that attack vegetables and their remedy
have also been dealt with. These include the terrible scourge,
the wart-disease of Potatoes. As it has been proved that some
varieties of Potatoes are immune from wart disease when grown
on infected soil, fhe names of the sorts that, after extended trial,
can be depended on to remain immune have been given. The
growing of winter Tomatoes has also received attention.

W. P. T.

M3G6418

PREFACE

MANY books on the cultivation of vegetables have been written,
but " THE VEGETABLE GARDEN " is the first book in any language
which classifies, describes, and illustrates these most important of
all plants to the human race. No excuse is needed for " making
English " such a book for the benefit, not only of our own horti-
culture, but also that of America, and of Australia and our other
colonies, in which the plants herein described may be grown.
It will enable us to realise the wonderful variety of light, pleasant,
and excellent food now within our reach, and make many good
vegetables more widely known.

The relation of these plants to the movement towards food
reform calls for a word at the present time. Leaving out of view

any exclusive tendency of this kind, all agree that the

Food Reform. J , r A, , '. <. i, - r j u

greater use of the best vegetables in our food would

be a gain. The reason why the more delicate vegetable foods are
neglected is because the cooks of Europe have served an appren-
ticeship of a thousand years on the carcases of ox, pig, sheep, and
we are meat-eaters because our fathers had little else to eat. The
plains and hills of the cold north were dotted with wild grazing
animals, as an English park is with deer, or a Western prairie
with antelope, and men killed and cooked the only food they had.
A few generations only have passed since our now commonest
vegetables came from the Continent. We are adding to their
number every day, and by the aid of cultivation we are winning
back our way to a simpler, healthier food.

In London the chaotic struggle in Covent Garden tends to
deprive us of the good qualities of the garden produce so well
grown in the suburban fields. One simple way to
imProvement would be the adoption of district
markets for local supplies. It is not necessary that
permanent structures should be built : a wide road, or square, or

vii

viii PREFACE

river embankment, would suffice. As wholesale dealings of this
kind are usually done in the morning hours, it would be easy to
make good use of open spaces for this purpose. Some of the
useful little district markets of Paris are held in public squares
and on the boulevards, and an hour after they are over, tents,
stands, refuse, and all other signs of the market are swept away.
Those who have their own gardens do not suffer from the ill-
managed markets of our cities, but thousands have no remedy save
through the improvements of our markets, the Paris markets being
a model of what is best in that way.

The " muddle " method of planting the food garden with fruit

trees and bushes, and so cutting up the surface with walks, edgings,

etc., that the object of the garden is frustrated, should

Better Culture. be changed We cannot grow vegetables well under

trees, and in attempting to do so we destroy the roots of the trees,
and is one cause of our poor garden-fruit culture. One-half of the
space wholly given to vegetables, divested of walks, large hedges, old
frame grounds, old walls, rubbish, and other impedimenta, would
give a far better supply. It is not merely the ugliness and the loss
of the over-mixed garden which we have to deplore, but the wasted
labours of the men who have to look after such gardens. How are
they to succeed, with the many things so hopelessly mixed up —
and perhaps rank groves of elms or other trees, their roots robbing
half the space ? Put the fruit trees in one part — the higher ground,
if any — and devote the remaining part to vegetables, cultivating the
ground in the best way as a fertile garden. The vegetables, too,
would be more wholesome for good light and air ; for shade from
ragged and profitless trees and bushes and hedges is one of the
evils of this hopeless kind of garden. The broken crops, too
(for the most part sickly patches), are not such as one can be
proud of. The many excellent vegetables grown for the Paris
market are grown in the full sun, and these gardens are a lesson
in good culture, and the quantity grown in them in proportion to
their size.

It is the rule in most British gardens to give far too much
space to the coarser vegetables like Cabbage and Potatoes, and far

too little to the more delicate and nutritious kinds,
for°theSBest some °f wmcn are usually not grown at all, or so ill

grown as to be useless. The Greens and other vege-
tables that go with our joints are the coarsest, least nutritious, and

PREFACE ix

most indigestible of all, and there can be no full gain in a garden
which does not include the vegetables which are served abroad as
dishes by themselves, and indeed are quite worthy to stand alone.
Leaving aside those not to be grown in our climate, we have
among others Scorzonera, Salsafy, Lettuces, and Endives ; with
us there is great waste in not using Lettuces and Endive, and
particularly the Batavian Endive, as vegetables ; for good cookery
they are far more important than Greens. Celeriac, an excellent
vegetable, is rarely well grown with us. Cardoons are first-rate
vegetables for our country, for which our soil and climate are
well suited. Indian Corn, too, thrives in all the southern parts of
the country, and, well grown, forms an excellent vegetable. Then
there are Artichokes of the best varieties, edible-podded Runner
Beans, edible-podded Dwarf Beans, early small Carrots, such as
the French Early Horn, Witloof, Corn Salad, Potiron jaune, and
Winter Gourds. The variety of delicious Gourds available during
summer, and the keeping kinds through a great part of the winter,
is a revelation to those who know nothing beyond the Vegetable
Marrow.

For owners of gardens, big or little, there is waste through not

gathering vegetables in the tender state. In almost every garden, in

summer and autumn, one sees Kidney Beans and Peas

^ ta C *n an uneata^e state, useless themselves, and robbing

the plant of the power to give a succession of eatable
pods. All such crops should be gathered at the right time, whether
wanted or not. Those who want vegetables in their best condition
only would find it profitable to gather and give away rather than
pursue the usual way of growing only to waste. It is a practice of
market g rdeners to allow things to get old and hard before gathering,
so as to fill their baskets. They must be the best judges of their own
affairs, but this practice is the cause of market vegetables being
often almost uneatable. In Paris the cook has the upper hand, and
no grower dare send him the woody fibre which is so largely sent
as vegetables to the London market. It is an error to suppose that
those who grow their own fruits and vegetables must pay more for
them than they would in the market. The gain in having them
fresh would be worth paying for. The advantage which all who
live in their gardens enjoy *might be much increased by growing
only things good in flavour, and gathering them in their best state
for the table. But it needs very strong pressure on the part of

x PREFACE

owners to have things sent in their tenderest and best condition
for the table.

All who have gardens should fight against the deterioration

of some of our best vegetables through the mania for size.

Although the flavour of vegetables may not be so

Quality before obvious as of frujtj jt js often their essential quality.

A change in size, by adding to the watery tissue
of the plant, may destroy the flavour, and doubling or trebling
the size of the article itself, as has been done in the case of the
Brussels Sprout, which is no longer the same little rosette of green,
but a coarse Cabbage sprout. Bad, too, is the raising of new
varieties lacking in flavour, and abolishing old kinds, from sup-
posed deficiency in size. There has been, for example, for the
last few years a French Bean in our markets, very large, but
without any of the good flavour of the smaller kinds, but its
huge mawkish pod has become popular with the market-gardener.
Here is a delicate vegetable, the value of which depends entirely
upon its flavour, and whether we get six beans or one bean
matters little if the object of growing the vegetable is lost sight
of. Sometimes a flavour may be too rich : many good cooks
in London prefer the little long Turnip of the Paris market,
which has a truer Turnip flavour, to some of the sweet kinds.
We may lose much of what makes a garden worth having by
not controlling the harmful efforts for size unaccompanied by
other and more desirable qualities. Often Potatoes and Tomatoes
and other things are raised and praised much, which in flavour
are wholly inferior to the older kinds.

Loss and confusion arise from the practice now common
among seedsmen of naming almost every good vegetable after
themselves. England has almost a monopoly of
t° N^m* ^ ^e Prac^ce» wmch is not carried out in France.
Honourable houses may do it for self-protection
with us, but it is nevertheless a loss to the public, and scarcely
less so to the trade. To be able to secure pure stocks of long-
tried standard vegetables is not easy for the public while the
seedsman affixes a new name and the name of his house to
almost everything he sells. One cause of failure is too many
kinds — too many experimental plantings, instead of the garden
being devoted to the things we know and like. This is a common
error owing to the chaotic state of the names of vegetables.

PREFACE xi

Seedsmen and growers, at home, in our colonies, and in foreign
countries, are compelled again and again to buy old things under
new names, and to test them before embarking in their sale. If
the practice were confined to the really new kinds raised, it would
be fair. A common way of giving these new names is to secure a
well-selected stock of seed of some old, good kind, and re-name
it. Of late years we have seen in London, Orchid, Pear, and
other conferences, which have had really little more serious
raison cFetre than the vanity or amusement of their promoters.
The nomenclature of our most valuable garden crops might
well occupy the attention of a body composed of representative
seedsmen and growers. It wonld not be very difficult to seek
out and give their true names to all the older and finer types
of our vegetables, and prevent confusion in the future without
interfering with the right to name a real novelty in a fitting
way.

Even if we have all we desire in the way of good culture and

varieties, there remains the question of cookery, which is sadly

Improved *n neec^ °^ cnange with us- ^n places of public resort

Cookery of where the best meat, game, and fish are to be had,

Vegetables and the cooking of even the commonest vegetables is

Cereals. disgraceful. Ill gathered, overgrown, they are so
cooked as to be uneatable. There is a movement now in the
way of cooking the best vegetables in their own juices, by braising
and stewing ; and not throwing their nutritious juices away in
quantities of water. However much our own cookery may im-
prove in this way, much more is to be expected from the study
of the ways of nations who live almost wholly on vegetable food.
The best Italian cooks treat rice and the products of wheat so
well that they form a complete and delicious food ; the Indian
vegetable curries are famous, and the Arabs have very agreeable
dishes of vegetable food delicately flavoured. Among these
people we see that good cookery even of a few simple things
will give complete nourishment to man. How much more,
therefore, might be expected from the vast range and variety of
foods within our reach in all fertile countries, and how well
worth our while it is to improve our ways of dealing with them !
This concerns not only green vegetables, but cereals, pulse, roots,
and fruits.

Books do not help us much in this way, because they are

xii PREFACE

usually based on the older ways as to flesh food ; but there is one
just come out which is helpful, and that is Colonel Kenny
Herbert's book on " Vegetarian and Simple Diet " (Swan Sonnen-
schein). The fact that it leaves out such a rich source of food as
the Apple shows the vastness of the subject. Of all sources of
garden food nothing is more precious and varied than the finest
apples of America and Britain. Good in the raw state, they add
a variety of delicate dishes which nothing else equals.

W. R.

AUTHORS' PREFACE

(Abstract)

WE have had some difficulty in fixing the limits within which we
should confine ourselves in this work. It is not always easy to
define exactly what a " vegetable" is, and to decide upon the plants
to which the term is applicable and those to which it is not. In
this respect, however, we thought it better to be a little over-
indulgent rather than too strict, and, accordingly, we have admitted
into the present work not only the plants which are generally
grown for use in the green state, but also those which are merely
employed for flavouring others, and even some which at the present
day have, for the most part, disappeared from the kitchen garden,
but which we find mentioned as table vegetables in old works on
horticulture. We have, however, restricted our list to the plants
of temperate and cold climates, omitting the vegetables which are
exclusively tropical, with which we are not sufficiently familiar,
and which, moreover, would interest only a limited class of readers.
We made it a point to determine the botanical identity of
every plant mentioned in this volume by giving the scientific
name of the species to which it belongs. Before commencing the
description of any form of cultivated vegetable, we are careful to
state, with strict exactness, the place in botanical classification
occupied by the wild type from which that form is considered to
have sprung. Accordingly, we commence every article devoted
to one or more cultivated varieties, by giving a botanical name to
all the subjects included in the article — a name which indicates
the genus and species to which all these forms, more or less
modified by cultivation, should be referred. For instance, all the
varieties of garden Peas, numerous as they are, are referred to
Pisum sativum, L. ; those of the Beet-roots to Beta vulgaris, L. ;
and similarly in the case of other plants.

xiii

xiv AUTHORS' PREFACE

While on this subject, we may be permitted to remark that the
constancy of a species is very remarkable and well deserves our
admiration, if we merely take into view the period of time over
which our investigations can extend with some degree of certainty.
We see, in fact, species brought into cultivation before history
began, exposed to all the modifying influences which attend seed-
sowing incessantly repeated, removal from one country to another,
the most important changes in the nature of the countries and
climates through which they pass, and yet these species preserve
their existence quite distinct. Although continually producing
new varieties, they never pass the boundaries which separate them
from the species which come next to them.

Among the Gourds, for example, which are annual plants that
have been in cultivation from times so remote that assuredly many
thousand generations of them have succeeded one another under
the conditions which are best calculated to bring about important
modifications of character, we find, if we give ever so little attention
to the subject, the three species from which all the varieties of
cultivated edible Gourds have originated ; and neither the influences
of cultivation and climate, nor the crossings which may occur from
time to time, have brought forth any permanent type or even a
variety which does not speedily revert to one of the three primitive
species. In each of these species the number of varieties is almost
indefinite, but the limit of these varieties appears to be fixed. Does
any plant exhibit more numerous or more diversified varieties of
form than the cultivated Cabbage? Is any difference more marked
than that which exists between a Round-headed and a Turnip-
rooted Cabbage, between a Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts,
between a Kohl-Rabi and a Tree Cabbage ? And yet these vast
dissimilarities in certain parts of the plants have not affected the
character of the essential parts of the plants, the organs of fructifi-
cation, so as to conceal or even to obscure the evident specific
identity of all these forms. While young, these Cabbages might
be taken for plants of different species, but when in flower and in
seed, they all show themselves to be forms of Brassica oleracea, L.

It seems to us that the long-continued cultivation of a very
considerable number of kitchen- garden plants, while it demonstrates
the exceedingly great variability of vegetable forms, confirms the
belief in the permanence of those species that are contemporary
with Man, and leads us to consider each species as a kind of system

AUTHORS' PREFACE xv

having a distinct centre (although this may not always be repre-
sented by a typical form), around which is a field of variation
almost unlimited in extent, and yet having certain, though still
undetermined, boundaries.

The idea of the species, in short, rests upon the fact that all the
individuals of which it is composed are, to an indefinite extent,
capable of being fertilised by one another, and only by one another.
Now, as long as it has not been proved that a variety artificially
produced by man has ceased to be capable of being fertilised
when crossed with other individuals of the same species, while
it continues fertile to an indefinite extent when impregnated
by individuals of its own special form, — so long it cannot be said
that a new species has been brought into existence ; and, up to
the present, no one, so far as we are aware, has ever asserted that
such a case has occurred. Far from it, indeed, as this capability
of being fertilised by its own members, and only by them, consti-
tutes, so to say, the very essence of the species. It is this which
alike ensures its permanence, its pliability, and its power of adapting
itself to the various conditions under which it/nay be compelled to
exist.

Reverting, however, to the plan of our work, we have taken care
not to give any names that are not really in common use and well
known, and have avoided mere translations. In publishing syno-
nyms, we have been very cautious, taking especial care not to admit
any that are not thoroughly well established, and, in most cases, .
verifying them by a comparative cultivation of those plants which
we considered identical. Having accurately identified each plant
under consideration by giving its botanical and various common
names, we mention its native country, adding a brief history of the
plant, when we possess any reliable data on this subject. After
mentioning the native country and giving the history of the plant,
we describe its mode of growth, whether annual, biennial, or
perennial. Here it should be remarked that many plants are grown
in the kitchen garden as annuals which are biennial or perennial
as regards their fructification. For kitchen-garden purposes, it is
enough that these plants attain in their first year a size sufficiently
large for table use, and this is especially the case with most plants
which are grown for their roots, such as Carrots, Beet-roots, Turnips,
Radishes, etc.

The descriptions, properly so named, of the different kinds of

xvi AUTHORS' PREFACE

kitchen-garden plants have been to us a subject of long-continued
labour and much care. Some persons, perhaps, may consider them
to be somewhat vague and elastic in their expression, and such a
remark may apply to many of them ; but, on the other hand, if they
had been more hard and fast, and had been drawn up in more
peremptory terms, they would not be so true. Account must be
taken of the variable appearance of cultivated plants under the
different conditions in which they are grown. A season more or
less favourable, or sowing earlier or later the same season, is sufficient
to produce a material alteration in the appearance of a plant, and
a precise description of it as it then presents itself would obviously
exclude other forms of it which should be included. Nothing is
easier than to describe a single individual in the most exact terms,
just as it is the easiest thing in the world to draw precise conclusions
from a single experiment ; but when a description is to be applicable
to a great number of individuals of the same variety and the same
race, the task is more difficult, in the same degree as it is when one
endeavours to form a conclusion at the close of a series of experi-
ments which give different and sometimes contrary results. Nearly
all our descriptions, which in the first instance were drawn up with
the growing plants before our eyes, have been, from time to time
and season after season, read over again with new crops of the
same plants before us. It is the variations which we have noted
in the size and appearance of the same plants when grown under
.different conditions that have induced us to pen our descriptions
with a broadness which enables them to include the different aspects
which the same kind of plant assumes according to the different
circumstances under which it is grown.

Whenever we have been able to seize upon any prominent and
really permanent feature in the characteristics of a variety, whether
that feature may be found in some important peculiarity or in a fixed
uniformity in the size or shape of variable organs, we have been
careful to bring it conspicuously into view, as the surest means of
recognising the variety in question. Most frequently, in fact, the
experienced cultivator of kitchen-garden plants recognises different
varieties from one another by the general appearance of each, the
peculiar aspect which the plant presents, and which more frequently
depends on certain proportions in the position and relative size of
the various organs than on any strictly structural characteristics.
Such distinctive marks, although they never escape a practised eye,

AUTHORS' PREFACE xvii

frequently baffle description and definition. Observation and
practice alone can teach any one how to see and recognise them
with certainty ; therefore we are fortunate, whenever a variety is
distinguished by a constant perceptible feature, to be able to express
its distinctness by a single word or a short phrase. Characteristic
features of this kind are found in the presence of spines on the
leaves of the Prickly Solid Cardoon (Cardon de Tours\ in the
reversed curve of the pods of the Sabre Pea, in the greenish colour
of the flowers of the Dwarf Blue Imperial Pea (Pots Nain Vert
Imperial], and similarly in many other cases.

A part of each description on which we have bestowed mucn
attention is that which refers to the seed. In addition to noting
the character of its external appearance, we have been careful to
state, as precisely as we could, its actual size and relative weight ;
and lastly, we mention the length of time during which the
germinating power of the seed of each species continues active.
It will be easily understood that this could only be expressed in
figures representing an average. The duration of the germinating
power really depends very much on whether the circumstances
under which the seed has been harvested and kept have been more
or less favourable. The figures given in this work represent the
average taken from an exceedingly great number of trials most
carefully carried out. The number of years tabulated is that
during which the seeds under trial continued to germinate in a
perfectly satisfactory manner. For our present purpose, we have
considered seeds deficient in germinating power when they yield
only half the percentage of plants which they did in the first year
of trial which was made with seeds of the same year's growth.
For example, if, in the first year, a certain variety of seeds germi-
nated to the extent of 90 per cent., we considered the same seeds
to be deficient in germinating power as soon as they began to yield
only less than 45 per cent, of plants. Any seeds, of which the
germinating power continues active for four or five years on an
average, do not entirely lose it after the lapse of ten years or
more. It is proper to add that our trials were all made with
well-saved seeds. Nothing has a greater tendency to destroy
the germinating power of seeds than the influence of dampness
and heat. This is what makes carriage through tropical countries
so often fatal to their good quality. Up to the present, no
better method of keeping seeds has been discovered than that

b

xviii AUTHORS' PREFACE

of putting them in linen bags and storing them in a dry, cool,
well-ventilated place.

As often as we could, we have supplemented our descriptions
with figures of the plants described. The size of the page did not
generally allow of these figures being given in large dimensions,
but we have endeavoured to exhibit at least their comparative
sizes by figuring the different varieties of the same vegetable on
a scale of uniform reduction, so far as this could be done. The
reduction has been, necessarily, greater in the case of very large
kinds of vegetables, such as Beet-roots, Cabbages, and Pumpkins,
than that which applies to the small kinds ; however, we hope that,
thanks to the talent of the draughtsman, M. E. Godard, even the
most reduced figures will still give a sufficiently correct idea of
the plants which they represent. The Strawberries, the Peas in
pod, and the Potatoes are almost the only subjects which it was
possible to figure in their natural size. Under the figures we also
give the scale of reduction in fractions of the actual diameter of
the plant. For example, when a subject is described as reduced
to J, that means that the plant, in its natural size, is six times
taller and six times broader than the figure which the reader has
before him. We have been careful not to select any subjects for
our figures except plants that were thoroughly well marked and
of average size. It may be that, in this respect, and also in our
estimation of distinctive features, we have sometimes made mis-
takes. If so, we shall gladly acknowledge our errors and rectify
them as soon as possible. Our only ambition, in preparing this
work for the press, is to do so in good faith and without prejudice.

Our cultural directions are to be regarded as nothing more
than a help to memory, and we do not in any way put them
forward as intended to supply the place of the full cultural
instructions which are given in standard horticultural works or
in various excellent special treatises which have been published
in our own and other countries.

Finally, we conclude the article devoted to each plant with a
few remarks on the uses to which it is applied, and on the parts
of the plant which are so used. In many cases, such remarks may
be looked upon as idle words, and yet it would sometimes have
been useful to have had them when new plants were cultivated
by us for the first time. For instance, the Giant Edible Burdock
of Japan (L,appa edulis) was for a long time served up on our

AUTHORS' PREFACE xix

tables only as a wretchedly poor Spinach, because people would
cook the leaves, whereas, in its native country, it is only cultivated
for its tender fleshy roots.

There is one mistake against which professional cultivators,
and also amateurs, especially those who have not had much
experience, should be on their guard. This is the delusion of
imagining that they have succeeded in raising a new variety when
a form that seems to possess some merit makes its appearance
amongst a number of seedlings. The plants raised from seed
obtained by crossing should at first be regarded merely as units,
which may have a certain value in the case of trees or plants that
are long-lived and are propagated by division, but which, after all,
are only units. Taken all together, they can only claim to be
considered a variety when they have continued to reproduce '
themselves, for several generations, with a certain amount of fixity
of character ; and, almost always, the really difficult and meri-
torious part of the work is the establishment of the variety — a
tedious and delicate operation, by which, when successful, the new
variety is endowed with the constancy and uniformity of character
without which it is not worth offering to the public.

Many varieties obtained in this way remain confined to their
own localities, because they are not more widely known ; some
cannot reproduce themselves faithfully when sown under conditions
different from those of their native place, from which fresh seed
must be obtained, from time to time, if it is desired to keep the
variety very pure ; hence those local reputations which are one of
the mainsprings of horticultural commerce. Generally most of the
cultivated varieties, although they continue sufficiently distinct
and true when they are grown with care, are all the better for
being raised from an importation of new seed from the place in
which experience has shown that it is grown best and truest to
name.

PARIS, 4 QUAI DE LA MEGISSERIE,

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

ANGELICA

Angelica Archangelica, L. ; Archangelica cfficinalis, Hoffm.

Umbelliferce.

French, Angelique officinale, A. de Boheme, Archangelique. German, Angelica,
Engelwurz. Flemish, Engdkruid. Dutch, EngelworteL Italian, Spanish, and
Portuguese, Angelica.

A NATIVE of the Alps. — Perennial. — This plant has a very thick,
hollow, herbaceous stem, upwards of 4 ft. high ; leaves very large,
from I to 3 ft. long, red-
violet at the base, long-
stalked, and terminating
in three principal toothed
divisions, which are sub-
divided into three similar
smaller divisions. Flowers
small, numerous, pale yel-
low, in umbels which unite
to form a roundish head.
Seed yellow, oblong, flat
on one side, convex on the
other} with three prominent
ribs, and membranous
edges. The germinating
power of the seed continues
for a year, or at most two.
CULTURE.— Angelica
requires a good, rich,
slightly humid, and deep
soil. The seed is sown in
springer summer in nursery
beds, and the plants are
planted out permanently in
autumn, and will commence Angelica.

to yield in the following
year (provided they are well grown), when the leaves may be

2 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

cut In the third year, at the farthest, the plants run to seed ;
in this year, both stems and leaves are cut, and the plantation is
destroyed.

USES. — The stems and leaf-stalks are eaten preserved with
sugar. The leaves are also used as a vegetable in some parts
of Europe. The root, which is spindle-shaped, is employed in
medicine : it is sometimes called " The Root of the Holy Ghost."
The seeds enter into the composition of various liqueurs.

ANISE

Piwpinella Anisum, L. Umbeliiferce.

French, Anis. German, Anis. Flemish and Dutch, Anijs. Italian, Aniso, Anacio.
Spanish, Anis, Matalahuga or Matalahuva. Portuguese, Anis.

Native of Asia Minor, Greece, and Egypt. — Annual. — A plant
from 14 to 16 in. high, with leaves somewhat like those of

Celery, and finely divided
stem-leaves, the divisions
being almost thread-like,
like those of Fennel
leaves. The seed, which
is small, oblong, and gray,
is known for its deli-
cate flavour and perfume.
Its germinating power
lasts for three years.
Anise is sown, where it is
to remain, in April. It
prefers warm and well-
drained soil. It grows
very rapidly, and requires
no care. The seed ripens
Anisc< in August. The plant is

seldom seen in England,
but we have grown it easily in the London district.

USES. — The seeds are frequently used as a condiment, or in the
manufacture of liqueurs and comfits. In Italy, they are sometimes
put into bread. It is of very ancient use in England, and was
known to the ancients, being indeed among the oldest of medicines
and spices. It is one of the spices which the Grocers' Compciny of
London had the weighing. and oversight of from 1453. According
to the wardrobe accounts of Edward IV., it appears the royal linen
was perfumed by means of " lytill bagges of fustian stuffed with
Ireos and anneys"

ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 3

ARTICHOKE (FRENCH)

Cynara Scolymus, L. Composites.

French, Artichaut. German, Artischoke. Flemish and Dutch, Artisjok. Danish,
Artiskok. Italian, Articiocca, Carciofo. Spanish, Alcachofa. Portuguese, Alcachofra.

A native of Barbary and South Europe. — Perennial (but culti-
vated plants will not yield profitably after two or three years). —
Stem from 3 to 4 ft. high, straight, channelled ; leaves large, about
3 ft. long, whitish green above, and cottony underneath, decurrent
on the stem, pinnatifid, with narrow lobes ; terminal flowers very
large, composed of an assemblage of blue florets, covered with
membranous overlapping scales, which, in cultivated plants, are
fleshy at the base. Seed oblong, slightly flattened, somewhat
angular, gray, streaked or marbled with deep brown. Its
germinating power continues for six years.

CULTURE. — The Artichoke may be propagated from seed, or
by dividing the stools, or from suckers. The last method is that
which is most usually employed, as it is the only one by which the
different varieties can be reproduced true to their proper character.
Old stools of Artichokes produce underground, around the neck, a
certain number of suckers or shoots which are intended to replace
the stems which flowered the year before. These shoots are gene-
rally too numerous on each stem to allow all to grow equally well,
and it is the practice, in spring, to uncover, down to below the part
from which the shoots issue, the old stools, which during the winter
had been protected with a covering of soil or leaves. The shoots
are then all detached from the stool, except two or three of the
finest, which are allowed to remain to contribute to the crop. The
operation of detaching the shoots is one which requires care and
a practised hand, for it is important that along with each shoot a
portion of the mother-plant (which is called the " heel ") should
also be removed, without too severely wounding the old stool, as
this might cause it to rot away. The shoots, as soon as they are
detached, should be trimmed and dressed with a pruning-knife,
so as to remove from the " heel " any parts that are bruised or torn,
and to shorten the leaves a little ; the shoots may then be planted
permanently. The best soil for a plantation of Artichokes is that
which has been well dug, and is rich, deep, almost humid, and at
the same time well drained. Low-lying level ground and valley-
bottoms in which the soil is black and almost turfy are especially
suitable for the cultivation of the Artichoke.

The shoots are planted in rows, at a distance from each other
of from about 2 J ft. to nearly 4 ft. (according to the richness of the
soil and the variety grown), and with the same distance between
the rows. They are placed firmly in the ground, but not too deep,
and then well watered, after which it is only necessary to keep the
ground clean by frequent use of the hoe, and to water plentifully

4 -THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

When watering is necessary. If the plants are sufficiently manured
and watered, almost all of them will yield in the autumn of the
Same year. Sometimes, instead of planting out the shoots per-
manently immediately after they are detached, they are first
planted in nursery-beds, from which they are afterwards removed
and placed out permanently at the end of June or July. The
success of the plantation is, in this way, more certain, and the
yield in autumn is, at least, quite as abundant as that produced
by following the other mode of planting.

When Artichokes are raised from seed, it should be sown in
February or March, in a spent hot-bed, and the plants should be
planted out permanently in May. Plants raised in this way may
yield in the autumn of the first year. A sowing on the spot where
the plants are to remain may also be made at the end of April or in
May, but the plants thus obtained will not yield until the next year.

At the commencement of winter, Artichoke plants should be
protected against frost, which sometimes destroys them in our
climate. In order to do so, all the stems which have flowered
should be removed from the stools by cutting them off as close to
the root as possible. The longest leaves also should be shortened,
after which soil should be heaped around the stools to the
height of 8 or I o in. above the neck of the root, care being taken
not to let any of it get into the heart of the plant. Should
the frost be very severe, it is advisable to give the stools an
additional covering of dry leaves or straw ; but it is important
that this covering should be removed whenever the weather is
mild, in order to prevent the danger of its rotting the plants. At
the end of March, or in the beginning of April, when hard frost is
no longer to be feared, the soil is stirred and manured if necessary,
the protecting heaps are removed from about the stools, and the
work of detaching the suckers or shoots is proceeded with as
described above. It is advisable to partially renew plantations
of Artichokes every year, and also not to allow any plantation
to last more than four years.

Artichokes are grown in every creased by seed and offsets. Varie-

British garden, but rarely so well ties of it, however, do not always

as they deserve to be. come true from seed, and they re-

The culture of the Artichoke quire, besides, more time than

varies somewhat according to situa- offsets before they produce heads ;

tion and climate. In the north and offsets, therefore, are most generally

midlands, it is necessary to cover it adopted. With good culture heads

in winter with litter or leaves, to may be had for six months in

protect it from frost; in the south succession. Commencing with es-

it is sufficient to earth it up, but tablished plants that have been

even this precaution is not taken protected through the winter, these

everywhere. The plants are in- will afford the first supply in May

ARTICHOKE (FRENCH)

and June ; and, for the next two
months, good heads may be had
from a planting of strong suckers
made in March; for the end of
summer and autumn, from a suc-
cessional planting made in May.
Another very good plan is to cut
back, close to the earth's surface, a
few old plants early in spring, and
occasionally afterwards. These will
produce a thicket of shoots, which
should be early thinned by pulling
and cutting the weakest, and allow-
ing only a portion of the strongest
suckers to remain. These will pro-
duce, in succession, nice young
heads. If the heads be allowed to
attain their full growth, or nearly so,
they are not so fine in flavour, and
have lost most of their tenderness,
so that only a part of the base of
each scale and the base of the head
are fit to eat. The Artichoke will
grow luxuriantly in rich moist land
in summer, but it will not stand our
winter in wet quarters. It will grow
on any kind of soil, if well manured,
trenched, and pulverised; but no
soil suits it better than a good open,
sandy, rich loam, trenched and well
manured. The plant is in its per-
fection at the second and third year
after planting.

Years ago it was the custom in
most gardens at the approach of
winter to cover the plants entirely,
or nearly, with litter, and then to
bank them up with earth, in which
condition they remained through
the winter. The Artichoke is, how-
ever, much hardier than was at that
time supposed ; and plants not pro-
tected seldom suffer injury. All
the protection they require in the
severest weather is a few dry leaves
or a handful of Bracken placed over
the crowns of each plant, to be re-
moved when the weather changes.
Plants are often allowed to remain
too long in one spot, and where this

occurs the heads all come into use
at one time. The best remedy for
this is to make a small plantation
every year, which will come in after
the old roots head.

Artichokes may be often seen
starved under trees, where neither
light nor sun can reach them. A
clear, open piece of good soil, well
manured and deeply trenched up
into rough ridges, to get well pulver-
ised and sweetened by atmospheric
influences, free from trees and
hedges, is the proper place to
plant them — planting the first batch
in March, and for succession
another in May, afterwards keeping
them thoroughly clean and main-
taining an open free surface by
often hoeing the ground about
them. By such means a dozen
stools will produce as many fine
rich heads as double the quantity
will do by the old-fashioned crowd-
ing, neglectful system. Make choice
in early spring of good strong
suckers, take off the stools care-
fully with a sharp, strong paddle-
trowel or Asparagus knife, with
some root or heel of the old stool
to them, to hold them in the
ground ; plant them singly 2 ft.
apart, in rows at least 4 ft. apart,
or in groups of three in triangles,
at 4 ft. apart, at least, in the row.
Protect them as soon as planted,
against the sun and cutting winds,
with Seakale pots which are out of
use, or with evergreen boughs, or
some other convenient protecting
material. Those thus early planted
will produce fine crisp heads the
same summer and autumn. If in
cutting heads the stems also be cut
close to the ground, new suckers
will soon appear, and if duly thinned
will produce a late crop ; thus, in
various ways, by a little trouble
and attention a regular supply of
good Artichokes may be had from

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

May to October, which will be
much more satisfactory than having
a glut at midsummer and none
afterwards.

Copious supplies of manure water
may be advantageously given to
Artichokes during dry weather,
especially in the case of old stools
that have been in the same soil
for a length of time. Previous to
watering, the soil between the rows
should be slightly pricked over with
a fork, to allow of the water soak-
ing in more readily. Whenever

watering is attempted, let it be
done thoroughly, and if a good
mulching of half-rotten manure can
be afterwards applied between the
rows, it will keep the roots in a
moist state for a long time, and the
effects of the watering will soon be
seen. When grown on poor or dry
soils, the effect of covering the soil
with light manure, lawn mowings,
or any such material that can be
spared is excellent. In rich, moist
soils it is not wanted, except in very
dry seasons.

USES. — The base of the scales of the flower, and also the
receptacle or bottom of the Artichoke, are eaten either cooked
or raw. The stems and leaves may also be used, when blanched,
like those of the Cardoon, to which they are in no way inferior in
quality. The culture of this good vegetable deserves more atten-
tion with us ; it should be more used as a vegetable, and the good
French varieties should be grown more extensively. It is a vege-
table of the highest value and delicacy when gathered fresh and
properly cooked, as it may be in various ways. The London
market often has heaps of Artichokes which have become shrivelled
and "heated" on their long journey from the south of France, while
our own valley soils are excellent for the plant.

VARIETIES

Paris Artichoke.

Large Paris Arti-
choke.— A vigorous, com-
paratively hardy plant, of
medium height ; leaves
silvery gray, the ribs red-
dish, especially at the base,
and without spines; stems
stiff, erect, usually with
two or three branchings.
Heads large, broader than
long, particularly remark-
able for the breadth of
the receptacle or bottom
of the Artichoke. Scales
very fleshy at the base, at
first very closely pressed
together, then broken, and
in the two upper rows
slightly bent backwards.

'ARTICHOKE (FRENCH)

They are pale green throughout, except at the base, where they are
slightly tinged with violet ; they have few or no spines. The
height of the stems does not exceed from 2\ to 3 ft, and a plant
two years old will have three or four stems. This variety is the one
which is most extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood of Paris.
It is not a very early variety, but it is the best for yielding heads
every year of its cultivation. No other variety has such a broad,
thick, and fleshy receptacle or bottom ; it also reproduces itself
fairly well from seed.

Green Provence Artichoke. — A plant of medium height, with
rather deep green leaves ; heads green, somewhat more elongated
than those of the preceding variety, but not so thick ; scales of a
uniform green, long, rather narrow and spiny, moderately fleshy at
the base. This variety, which is extensively grown in the south of
France, is usually eaten raw with pepper sauce. The seeds of this
variety, when sown, always produce a large proportion of spiny
plants.

Flat-headed Brittany Artichoke. — A tall and vigorous plant,
3^ to 4^ ft. high ; leaves
luxuriant ; heads large,
broad, and short, nearly
globular in shape, flat-
tened on the top ;
scales green, brown, or
slightly tinged with
violet on the edges,
short and broad, rather
fleshy at the base.
This variety is very
extensively cultivated
in Anjou and Brittany,
from which provinces
large quantities are
sent in May to the
Central Market in
Paris.

As the number of
varieties of the Arti-
choke is very great,
we shall limit ourselves
to mentioning only
those which we con-
sider the most worthy
of notice next to the
ones which we have
cultivated.

Flat-headed Brittany Artichoke.

just described as being most generally

8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Copper-coloured Artichoke of Brittany. — A rather low-
growing plant ; heads round, large, violet at first, but red-copper
colour as they advance in growth ; scales pointed.

Perpetual Artichoke. — A medium-sized plant not exceeding

27 or 28 in. in height,
with silvery gray leaves
and red stems, deepening
in colour at the base.
The young heads are
tinged with purple, which
turns into purple-gray as
their size increases. The
scales are indented, spine-
less, and very fleshy. It
is much grown on the
French Riviera for the
sake of the numerous
small heads it produces
as early as January, which
are usually eaten raw
with oil and vinegar, as
a delicate hors-d'tzuvre
for which there is always
a great demand. For
this reason the plants are
abundantly watered from
the middle of August
onward. When fully
grown the heads may be
cooked and eaten in the
usual way.

Early Purple Globe
Artichoke. — A rather
dwarf plant, not more
than 28 in. in height ;
leaves grayish green, large
but much laciniated ; the heads are round, green when young,
tinged with dark purple when full grown ; scales long, pointed,
lightly spiny. Although this variety came first from the south of
France, it does well all over France, owing to its earliness. Like
the preceding, it is best for use when young. It has superseded
the Purple Provence Artichoke, and, like it, is apt to take cold,
and should not be uncovered tpo early in the spring.

Gray Artichoke. — A variety with elongated, rather thin and
loose heads, widening out at the top. It is "specially cultivated in
the neighbourhood of Perpignan, is a very early kind, and flowers

Perpetual Artichoke.

ARTICHOKE (FRENCH) 9

almost continuously. It is sent in large quantities to the Central
Market in Paris during the winter and in the beginning of
spring.

Black English Artichoke. — A very distinct kind, with nume-
rous heads of medium size, nearly round and quite flat-topped, of a
handsome dark violet colour.

Roscoff Artichoke. — A very tall plant ; heads egg-shaped, of
a rather pale green colour ; scales spiny.

Oblong St. Laud Artichoke.— Heads large, elongated ; scales
loosely overlapping each other at the base, and much more
closely set at the top, scarcely emarginate, with a small spine at
the point.

Sweet Artichoke of Genoa.— A rather tender plant ; heads
pale green, elongated, spiny. The flesh of the receptacle is yellow,
sweet, and very delicate in flavour.

Purple Provence Artichoke.— A rather low-growing plant,
with swollen short and blunt heads, of rather deep violet
when young and becoming green as they mature. A very
productive variety, but only in spring, and somewhat impatient
of cold.

Violet Quarantain Artichoke of Camargue. — Plant of medium
height ; heads rather small ; scales round, erect, of a violet-tinged
green colour. An early variety.

Violet St. Laud Artichoke.— Heads of medium size ; scales
green on the exposed parts, but violet on the parts covered by
other scales, and also on
the tips.

Florence Artichoke. —
Heads very numerous,
elongated, pointed, of an
intense violet colour. This
variety is very much grown
in the neighbourhood of
Florence. The heads,
gathered when young and
tender, are generally boiled
and eaten entire.

Purple Venice Arti-
choke.— Heads of medium
size, long, conical, dark
purple, especially when PurPIe Venice Artichoke,

young ; scales fleshy and

delicate in flavour ; tinged with salmon-yellow on the part not
exposed to the light. Hardy, but not very productive.

10

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE*

Helianthus tuber osus, L. Composite.

French, Topinambour. German, Erdapfel. Flemish, Aardpeer. Danish, Jordskokkeii.
- Italian, Girasole del Canada, Tartufoli. Spanish, Namara. Portuguese, Topinambor.

Native of North America. — Perennial— A tall plant, with annual

stems, but producing, year
after year, underground
shoots which are swollen
into genuine tubers. It
was introduced into Europe
some centuries ago, and is
very generally cultivated on
a large scale. The stem is
erect and very stout, some-
times over 6J ft. high, often
branching in the lower part,
and bearing oval-acuminate
leaves, which are long
stalked and very rough to
the touch ; flower - heads
comparatively small, seldom
opening in the north of
France before October ;
florets yellow; tubers violet-
red, slender at the bottom,

and swollen in the upper part, where they are about 2 in. in diameter,

marked with hollows and scale-like

enlargements. They form very late,

and should not be dug until the stems

have nearly ceased growing. The

flesh is sweet and rather watery.
CULTURE. — The tubers are planted

in the open ground, in March or April,

in rows 2 J to 3 ft. or more apart, and

with a distance of 12 to 14 in. between

the tubers. The plants require no

attention beyond the occasional use

of the hoe, and the tubers are dug as

theyare wanted. They are not affected

by frost as long as they are left in the

ground, but are very liable to be in-
jured if exposed to it after they are

taken up. In warm countries the

plant produces seed, from which it can

be propagated. Experiments made Iinproved Yellow Jerusalem
raising improved Artichoke.

* See also p. 758.

Jerusalem Artichoke (£ natural size).

with the view of

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE

ii

varieties from seed have not hitherto been attended with very
satisfactory results. From one of these experiments we obtained
a variety with yellow tubers which have a finer and more agreeable
flavour than the common kind, but the plant is far less productive.
This variety may answer as a kitchen-
garden plant, but is not suitable for
extensive or field culture.

As this vegetable may be grown in almost
any Dlace, it is generally planted on gravelly
pieces of ground that would be too dry for
other crops. Knolls or mounds are usually
cropped with it, and it is also grown along
the sides of hedges and in shady places. A
few growers, however, grow it on good soil
in open and somewhat exposed positions, and
the result is an abundant crop of fine tubers.
After preparing the ground by manuring and
digging or trenching it, the tubers are planted
in February, in rows like Potatoes, and are
allowed to grow unchecked, and without being
earthed up, till November. It has not become
very popular perhaps owing to its resemblance
to the Potato, to which it is, no doubt, inferior,
if looked at only from the Potato standard.
But it never should be so regarded, being
very distinct from any Potato, and having
distinct uses in cookery. It is excellent as
baked by French and Italian cooks, the
flavour being richer and better this way.

Jerusalem Potato Artichoke.— A
remarkable variety, the result of a series
of sowings made at Verrieres with
seeds gathered in Corsica by Dr. Joseph
Michaud. It is distinguishable from the common variety by the
greater size of its tubers, which are also rounder, less angular and
knobby ; they are yellow in colour. In quality it is equal to the
old sort and somewhat superior to it in yield.

Jerusalem Potato Artichoke.

ASPARAGUS

Asparagus officinalis, L. Liliacece.

French. Asperge. German, Spargel. Flemish and Dutch, Aspersie. Danish, Asparges.
Italian, Sparagio. Spanish, Esparrago. Portuguese^ Espargo.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with numerous simple
swollen roots, disposed in the form of a claw, from which spring
several stems over 4 ft. in length, straight, branching, very smooth,
slightly glaucous, with very minute cylindrical fascicled leaves.

12 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Flowers pendent, small, greenish yellow, succeeded by spherical
berries about the size of a pea, which in autumn assume a very
vivid vermL.on colour. Seeds black, triangular, large, preserving
their germinating power for five years at least.

CULTURE. — Asparagus, which is one of our earliest spring
vegetables, is also one of the most widely appreciated and exten-
sively cultivated. In many districts, and notably in the neighbour-
hood of Paris, the cultivation of Asparagus for market is a branch
of industry of the highest importance ; and although there are,
undoubtedly, some soils and localities in which its cultivation is
attended with special success, there is hardly any place in which
a plantation of this vegetable may not be made, if only some pains
are taken in establishing it and keeping it in order. A light and
well-drained soil is the best for this purpose, but a plantation may
be successfully made in any soil which is not either absolutely wet
or impermeably stiff; stagnant moisture being, above all other
things, fatal to this plant.

In order to establish a plantation, the cultivator may either
raise his own plants or purchase them ready for use. In the first
case, the seed should be sown in March or April, in good, rich,
mellow soil (in drills preferably), and lightly covered with soil,
leaf-mould, or compost (a covering from J to f in. deep will be
quite sufficient). After the seed is well up and the plants have
begun to gain some strength, they should be thinned out, if neces-
sary, so as to leave a space of about 2 in. from plant to plant in
the drills. It is very important for the ulterior favourable develop-
ment of the plants, and for the satisfactory appearance of the crop,
that they should never suffer from the want of nourishment caused
either by an insufficiency of manure or by the plants being placed
too closely together. During the rest of the summer and autumn,
water should be given copiously whenever there appears to be need
of it, and the ground must be kept very clean by the use of the hoe,
which should be carefully handled, so as not to injure the roots of
the plants. Plants treated in this way will be ready to be planted
out permanently the following spring ; they will strike root sooner,
and give better results than plants of two years' growth, while the
crop which they yield will come in quite as soon.

Those who do not wish to take the trouble of raising plants
themselves in this way can easily procure them from seedsmen.
Young Asparagus shoots may be kept for several days, and even
weeks, out of the ground, without any detriment either to their
striking root or to the appearance of the crop which they will yield.
The raising of these plants for sale has become an important
industry.

It has been already stated that, in order to establish a plantation
of Asparagus, a light and well-drained soil should, if possible, be

ASPARAGUS

selected ; but if the cultivator has no other soil except one that is

very stiff and damp, he should, by a thorough drainage, render it

wholesome to the depth of at least 12 or 1 6 in., and direct all

his efforts to the improvement of the surface. The experience

of the Asparagus growers at Argenteuil and other localities near

Paris, who have brought the culture of this plant to a degree of

perfection unknown before, seems to prove that the best results

are obtained by liberally manuring the upper portion only of the

soil in which the plants are growing, as the roots have naturally

no tendency to descend deeper, if they find sufficient nourishment

near the surface. It is obvious that, in establishing a plantation of

A s naragus, account must

be taken of the nature

of the soil in which it is

to be made, and which,

consequently, must be

dug more or less deeply;

but it may be said

generally that the chief

point on which success

mainly depends, is not

to put the stools out of

reach of the influence of

heat, while, at the same

time, placing them in a

medium in which they

will find an abundance

of the nourishment

which they require.

The stools, then, should be planted at no great depth, and no

great quantity of soil should be heaped over them, except at the

time when the young shoots are growing, when it is absolutely

necessary to do so, in order to obtain these of sufficient length.

As to the disposition of the young plants, there is no fixed rule.

They may be placed either in single rows, or in beds containing

two or three rows each ; but it is advisable, in all cases, to have a

distance of at least 2 or 2j ft from plant to plant in all directions.

This will be found advantageous from a double point of view, as

ensuring a crop of greater abundance and better quality.

Planting in beds being the most usual way, we shall briefly
describe how it is done, first observing that the methods of
establishing and cultivating the plants are almost exactly the
same as those pursued with plants grown in single rows. In
March or April, or even later, the ground for the plantation is
carefully laid out, having been previously well dug and plentifully
manured before winter. The surface of the beds is then slightly

Asparagus (after 7 years' planting).

14 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

hollowed out to the depth of about 4 in., the soil being trans-
ferred to the alleys. Well-rotted farmyard manure, or some other
active fertiliser, is then spread over the surface of the bed. In the
vicinity of Paris, well-rotted manure or street-sweepings are much
used for this purpose. The positions for the stools are then marked
out, in two or three rows according to the width of the beds, at the
distances mentioned above. At each of these positions is deposited
a small heap of well-manured soil or leaf-mould, about 2 in. high,
on the top of which the young stool is placed, care being taken to
spread out the roots all around and to press them gently into the
soil. When all the stools are in position, they are covered with
leaf-mould or soil mixed with rotten manure, and a sufficient
quantity of soil is spread over all to restore the bed almost to
its former level. In this way the crowns of the stools will not be
buried deeper than about 2 in., and the ends of the roots not deeper
than 4 in. A good deal of soil which was replaced by the manure
will remain in the alleys and between the rows, and this will be
found useful afterwards for earthing- up the plants.

During the first year, the plantation requires no attention
beyond the frequent use of the hoe and occasional waterings.
At the commencement of winter, the stems are cut down to
8 or 10 in. from the ground, the portions so left serving to indicate
the position of each stool. (It is a good plan also, at the time of
planting, to stick a small rod into the ground beside each stool to
mark its position, as the manure can then be placed exactly over
the roots, and there will be little danger of injuring them in the
course of hoeing or in any other way.) A portion of the soil which
covers the stool is then cautiously removed, leaving only enough
to cover the stool to the depth of between i and 2 in., and then
the manure is applied. This is of various kinds. Those which,
from experience, are considered the best, are well-rotted farmyard
manure, street-sweepings to which a little sea-salt is sometimes
added, and calcareous composts — plaster, marl, lime rubbish,
quarry-dust, etc. — if the soil is deficient in such ingredients. The
manure is allowed to remain on the surface all through the winter,
and at the end of March is dug into and well mixed with the soil.
The surface is then neatly levelled down, and the plantation, during
the remainder of the second year, is treated exactly in the same
way as in the previous year. When the stools are uncovered in
the autumn, care should be taken to cut away, close to the root, the
withered remnants of the stems which were previously shortened
in October. A fresh covering of manure is then applied, which, as
before, is left to lie on the surface all through the winter and dug
in at the commencement of spring.

In the third year the plants are, for the first time, earthed up.
This operation consists in heaping up over each stool some of the

ASPARAGUS 15

soil taken from the alleys, so as to form a little hillock about a foot
higher than the bed. If the plantation has been carefully attended
to up to this time, some shoots may now be gathered for use, but
not more than two or three from each stool : however, if it is
desirable that the plantation should last for a considerable time,
it is better to abstain from gathering any now, and to wait till
the fourth year for the first gathering. In any case, it is very
important to gather the shoots by breaking them off close to
the neck of the stool, and not to cut them in the soil, as is often
wrongly done, to the detriment, among other things, of the as yet
undeveloped shoots. The best plan is to uncover the shoot to be
gathered, by removing the soil of the hillock, and then neatly break
off the shoot with the fingers or a special implement, replacing
the soil of the hillock at once in its former position. This is the
invariable practice of careful cultivators in the neighbourhood of
Paris. If, from any cause, portions of shoots are found attached
to the stool in autumn, they should be altogether removed before
winter sets in. In the open air, in the climate of Paris, Asparagus
is gathered in the beginning of April, but it is well not to continue
gathering after June I5th, if an abundant and early crop is ex-
pected the following year. About London it is ten to fourteen
days later, and lasts so much longer.

In the fourth year, the treatment of a plantation of Asparagus
is precisely the same as in the previous years, consisting simply
of the necessary hoeing, watering, and manuring. It is not
absolutely necessary to apply manure every year ; nevertheless,
as the Asparagus is a very greedy plant in the matter of manure,
the crop will always be in proportion to the quantity of nourish-
ment it receives in this way. A plantation properly made and
carefully attended to will continue productive for ten years or more.

As by the common English way grow, if strong growth and strong
of growing Asparagus it is impos- shoots are desired. Long expan-
sible to get a good result, we give ence has taught cultivators that a
here what are the smaller space than 4 ft. apart will

not suffice to give the very best
ESSENTIAL POINTS IN THE PRODUC- result> At first si ht 'le in

TION OF GOOD ASPARAGUS. this country might suppose that

Although the details of the system this means a waste of ground, but

of growing good Asparagus require it really is not so. At first, when

some little space to describe on the plantation is young, waste of

paper, the essential differences be- ground is avoided by taking a light

tween that and the system com- crop off between the lines — say,

monly employed in England are so one of Kidney Beans or of early

very clear that they may be shortly Potatoes ; but after a good year's

stated. Each plant is treated as growth, and when the Asparagus

an individual — as a vigorous subject gets strong, its roots really occupy

requiring much space in which to the whole space, and the result is

i6

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

so much more satisfactory than in
the common way that the ground
affords a better and more satisfac-
tory return. There are two prin-
cipal ways of growing this crop
near Paris— one, devoting a certain
portion of ground to it, as usual
with us ; the other, putting single
plants between Vines or small fruits,
or placing a plant wherever there
is room for one. This last way is
important, because it may be car-
ried out in small gardens every-
where, and by its means we should
become more readily convinced of
the value of giving plenty of room
to the roots. Single plants here
and there in the open spaces, or in
" blanks " between bushes, fruits,
or dwarf pyramidal Apple or Pear
trees, or single lines, wherever room
can be found for them, would, from
the superior result, soon convince
all of the value of the system.

PLANTING. — Healthy yearling
plants are always chosen, and they
are planted about the time, or a
little before the time, when growth
commences in spring. They are in-
variably planted in a shallow trench
somewhat like a Celery trench — not
quite so deep and not manured as
that is, supposing that the ground
is in fair condition. In a trench
about 8 in. deep the plants are
placed on little low hillocks, and
they are carefully attended to for
the first year. The plants, be it
noted, are 4 ft. apart in the line,
and 4 ft. apart in the trench. It
will be noticed that the second
essential difference between the
common way — that in use with us
— and the way it is now desired to
make known is, that in garden soil
of fair quality no manure is used
at the time of planting. There are
soils in which drainage and pre-
paration might be required ; but
assuming that the soil is as good

as garden soil generally is, no pre-
paration whatever is given beyond
the opening of the trench and the
planting of each root in a little fine
surface soil ; the great preliminary
expense which has been supposed
to be necessary in the culture of
this plant is avoided. It is when
the plants begin to get strong and
well established that a little manure
is applied. There is thus a great
economy in two things — in plants
and in manure, which under the
usual system with us is used to the
most wasteful extent ; so much so,
indeed, as to seriously limit produc-
tion by causing alarm as to expense.

HOME CULTURE. — Our markets
are full of Asparagus in spring,
grown in other countries, sometimes
hundreds of miles from London. It
is a vegetable which, perhaps more
than any other, loses quality every
day after it is cut. This is one
reason why it should be grown in
our own country. The soil and the
climate of England, in almost every
county, are admirably suited for the
production of Asparagus. Never-
theless, not only do we not supply
our own markets, but many pos-
sessing large gardens cannot get
a really good sample. All this
is wholly unnecessary, for every
farmer's garden and every cottage
garden might grow it well. In large
places, where a few beds formed on
a costly and wrong principle now
furnish a very limited supply of
very poor Asparagus, there ought to
be an abundance of the best quality.
Our markets ought to be supplied
by our own people, the early sup-
plies coming from the southern and
the late ones from the northern
counties.

BLANCHING. — The question of
blanching it is more or less apart
from the question of cultivation,
and people may adopt the only true

ASPARAGUS

system of culture without blanch-
ing, if such be their taste. But a
closer acquaintance with the subject
will probably teach many that there
is something in this despised sys-
tem of blanching, which so many
persons, lamentably ignorant on the
subject beyond experiences of their
own overcrowded and ill-grown
beds, declare to be an absurd prac-
tice. All good judges and good
growers know that it is necessary
in the highest culture, and to secure
the most delicate flavour, and also
to prevent the rising shoots break-
ing in warm weather into scales or
leaves before they are fairly deve-
loped. The best foreign Asparagus
is blanched by piling little mounds of
friable earth over the stools in spring.

FORCING. — Obtaining early sup-
plies of Asparagus should be the
aim of all who have gardens of
any extent and with the usual
appliances for forcing and heating.
A peculiarity of this, the most deli-
cate and most esteemed of all vege-
tables, is that it never retains its true
and delicate flavour when "canned"
or preserved. We have tried many
samples, both from France and
America, and never found one that
did not taste unpleasantly of the
tin. The true way is to prolong the
season of the fresh Asparagus as
long as we conveniently can.

Forcing may be commenced in
November and continued till Aspa-
ragus is fit to gather in the open
air. One of the best ways is to
make a slight hot-bed with stable
manure, leaves, and tan (these last
materials, if easily obtained, will do
well to mix with the manure), in a
Melon pit, or under a common Cu-
cimbar frame about 2^ft. high ; and
on th2 surface of the bed should
be placed a few inches of light soil,
leaf-mould, or sifted potting refuse,
on which to place the plants, because

such material does not act so effectu-
ally in repressing the heat as ordi-
nary garden soil. When the roots
are taken up as completely and care-
fully as possible, and placed thickly
on this, they should be covered with
a few more inches of the same mate-
rial. If the Asparagus be required
of its natural colour, give the frame
full light and air when fine. Water
occasionally with tepid water. After
one good watering in the early stage,
a little will afterwards suffice, for
the winter crops at all events, as the
slow evaporation of the period and
the moisture of the bed will pre-
serve the soil in a sufficiently moist
state. The heat of the bed must be
preserved when it gets low by a
lining, in the usual old-fashioned
way, and by covering closely with
mats or litter at night in cold
weather— that is, if it be a common
frame, but if in a brick pit this will
not be necessary. The chief point
is to be patient at first, to let it get
a slow start, and not to be over-
excited at any time, or it will start
away and produce nothing but very
weak, spindly shoots : whereas, by
bringing it on gradually and regularly,
a good cutting may be obtained.

An important way is by bringing
the heat to the roots, and certainly
by this plan a more permanent and
stable kind of " grass " is obtained,
because plant or root is not in the
least disturbed. It is an expensive
way, though simple. The beds are,
in the first place, very well made of
rich, deep soil, and the alleys of
these beds are dug out to a depth
of 3 ft. or so, and then bricked ; or.
in other words, the Asparagus beds
are made between low brick walls,
perforated with " pigeon-holes," to
admit of the heat entering freely ;
and whenever forcing commences,
the bricked trench on each side of a
bed is filled with fermenting manure^

18

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

covered over by a rough shutter,
and the beds themselves with small
wooden frames made to fit; these
are, of course, only placed on during
forcing, the beds being exposed in
the summer season. The beds should
not be more than 4 or 5 ft. wide, to
admit of the ready percolation of
heat. This method is, however,
only suited for places where a good
deal of expense is devoted to the
garden. The modification or im-
provement of it, which consists in
having hot-water pipes passing be-
tween each bed and the chamber
covered with a slab of stone, is even
a more expensive one. No matter
what system is employed, a steady
heat of from 60° to 65° will be found
most suitable.

In the royal gardens at Frogmore
the beds are about 75 ft. long and
7 ft. wide, their sides being built
with brick, " pigeon-hole " style.
The spaces between the beds are
4 ft. deep, the lower 2 ft. being
filled with rich soil ; and in * the
upper 2 ft. are flow and return hot-
water pipes connected with a boiler
that heats six such ranges. On the
tops of the beds are frames. In

special severe weather the sashes
must be covered with mats or litter.
The French mode of forcing As-
paragus usually consists in digging
deep trenches between beds planted
for the purpose, covering the beds
with the soil and with frames, filling
in the trenches between the beds
with stable manure, and protecting
the frames with straw mats and litter
to keep in the heat. A speciality
is made of forcing the smaller-sized
Asparagus in iron houses There
are frames within these houses, just
as in many propagating houses in
England, and beneath them the
Asparagus is forced for the markets,
and in large quantities. The houses
are heated by hot water, and the
culture in other respects resembles
that which is practised in forcing
gardens in England — that is, when
the plants are taken up to be forced
indoors or in pits. The disturbance
weakens the roots a good deal, and
the large table Asparagus is never
forced by this method. It is pro-
duced specially in a small state for
soups, etc., but it is impossible to
obtain the large table Asparagus in
this way.

USES. — The young shoots, blanched by being earthed up, and
gathered as soon as the points appear overground, are used boiled
as a vegetable. In Italy and some other countries, they allow
them to grow 4 or 6 in. overground, and to become quite green
before they gather them. In France, blanched Asparagus with a
reddish or purple coloured head is generally preferred.

In Holland and Belgium, the shoots are completely blanched.
Notwithstanding this, the Belgian and Dutch Asparagus has a
delicate and excellent flavour. English people who only know
foreign Asparagus as specimens a week or more old, gathered in
Spain or France, make a great mistake in supposing that blanching
destroys flavour. Fresh and properly cooked Asparagus is always
delicate and good in flavour, whether blanched or not ; but growers,
cooks, market men, and others who have much experience know
that the blanched is the best, and laugh at the dictum of those who
say that " only an inch of the blanched grass is fit to eat." Many
who discuss the question do not even know how the large Asparagus

ASPARAGUS

is cooked, and have never tasted well-grown Asparagus freshly
gathered and properly cooked. Another error is to suppose that
only foreign produce is blanched, and our own green. The practice
of the market gardeners of London has for many years been to
blanch the shoots for most of their length. What they send to the
London market is excellent in flavour, and has the advantage over
the French of freshness. It may be useful to state here that French
cooks boil the very fine Asparagus in bundles standing on end
in the water, leaving an inch or so of the points above the water.
This enables them to thoroughly cook the stem, without destroying
the tops. These, if not enough cooked by the steam, are readily
finished by laying the bundle on its side for a few minutes. — R.

VARIETIES OF ASPARAGUS

are pretty numerous, or perhaps it would be better to say that
every district in which its culture is successfully carried on has
given its name to a kind more or less distinct. It is owing to
this circumstance that we have such names as Asperge de Gand,
A. de Marchiennes, A. de Vendome, A. de Besancon, etc. We
shall describe only those kinds which appear to possess some really
distinctive characteristics.

Common Green Asparagus. —
This variety appears to come nearest
to the wild Asparagus ; the shoots
are more slender, more pointed, and
turn green sooner than those of any
other cultivated kind.

Giant Dutch Purple Asparagus.
— The shoots of this variety are thicker
and more rounded at the end than
those of the preceding kind. They
are only tinged at the points with rose-
colour or violet-red as long as they
are not exposed to the action of light.

White German Asparagus. —
Closely resembling the preceding
variety, this is generally considered
to be a little earlier and is somewhat
more deeply coloured, but the differ-
ence is so trifling that the two
varieties may be safely pronounced
identical.

Early Giant Argenteuil Asparagus. — This very handsome
variety, obtained by selection from seedlings of the Giant Dutch
Purple Asparagus, forms the greater part of those fine bundles of
Asparagus which are so much admired in the Paris markets in

Giant Dutch Asparagus (J natural
size).

2O

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

spring. The shoots are very notably thicker than those of the
parent plant, the head is slightly pointed, and the scales with
which it is covered are very closely set, overlapping each other.
It is a little earlier than the parent variety.

Late Giant Argenteuil Asparagus. — This variety is not
inferior in appearance to the Early one, but it does not commence
to yield quite so soon. It is called Late, not so much on account
of this difference as because it continues to produce fine large
shoots when those of the Early kind have become much thinner
than they were at the beginning of the season, and shoots of the
Late kind are used to set off the bundles. Experienced cultivators
are able to distinguish this variety from the preceding one by the
appearance of the point of the shoot, which in this kind has the
scales parted from each other like those of the Artichoke, instead
of being, as it were, glued down upon each other.

The Germans have a great number of varieties of Asparagus,
under the names of Great Giant, Large Erfurt, Early Darmstadt,
Large Darmstadt, Large Early White, etc. All of these appear to
us to come very close to the Giant Dutch Purple and the White
German Asparagus, both of which, as we have seen, are much
about the same thing.

In England and America the variety named Conover's Colossal
is very much extolled. From what we know of it, we do not think
it superior to the Argenteuil varieties. [The difference in kinds is
very often the result merely of difference in cultivation. There is a
difference between the Early Argenteuil and the Late Argenteuil,and

the Early variety should
be encouraged by English
growers, who should try to
supply their own markets
as early as possible. — R.]

BALM

Melissa officinalis, L.
Labiates.

French, Melisse citronelle, Melisse
officinale. German, Citronen-
Melisse. J)utch, Citroen-Melisse.
Danish, Hjertensfryd. Italian,
Melissa. Spanish, Toronjil,
Citronella.

Native of South Europe.
— Perennial. — A plant
growing about ij ft. high,
with numerous erect and
spreading branches and

leaves of pure green ;

Balm (plant,

natural size).

BALM 21

flowers few, in small clusters ; calyx covered with fine soft hairs ;
seeds brown. Their germinating power lasts for four years. The
leaves and all the green parts of the plant exhale a very agreeable
and penetrating aromatic odour, especially when bruised. This
plant is of very easy culture in England. It is increased by
dividing the clumps in autumn, winter, or spring. Like most of
the herbs that come from South Europe, it enjoys warm positions,
but grows anywhere.

USES. — The leaves are much used for seasoning, and especially
in the manufacture of liqueurs and scents.

BASIL

Ocymum Basilicum, L. Labiates.

French, Basilic grand, Herbe royale. German, Basilikum. Flemish, Basilik. Danish,
Basilikum. Italian, Basilico. Spanish, Albaca, Albahaca. Portuguese, Manjericao.

A native of India. — Annual. — Stem about I ft. high, very
branching; leaves green; flowers white, in whorled leafy clusters
seeds small, black, covered with a mucila-
ginous substance, which swells in water
like Flax-seed. Their germinating power
lasts for eight years.

CULTURE.— As this plant is a native
of warm countries, the best way is to sow
the seed in a hot-bed in March or April.
The seedlings are planted out in May, in
the open air, on a warm border. All kinds
of Basil are easily grown in pots. In
England, Sweet Basil seeds should be
sown about the middle of April, in a
genial temperature, and when the seed-
lings are large enough to handle, they
may be potted off singly, or they may be Basil (£ natural size),
pricked into boxes or seed-pans, or into

a frame on a slight bottom heat, from which they should be trans-
ferred to their positions in the open air about the beginning of
June. Owing to the plant being very tender, this can seldom be
done with safety at an earlier period. Sweet Basil succeeds best
in a light, rich soil, in which the plants should grow at a distance
of 6 or 8 in. apart, and should be well watered until they become
established. As soon as they come into bloom they should be cut
down to within a few inches of the ground, and the portion cut off
should be tied up in small bunches and dried in the shade for winter
use. As, however, green Basil is frequently required, the plants
which have be'en cut down should have the soil surrounding them
slightly stirred up, and the bed given a surface-dressing of fresh

22

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

soil, when the plants will quickly form themselves into healthy little
bushes, which will furnish a supply of green leaves until about the
beginning of October. A portion of them should then be lifted and
potted, or planted in boxes, and should be placed in a somewhat
genial temperature, where they will continue to furnish a supply of
green leaves when required throughout the winter.

USES. — The leaves are very aromatic and are used for seasoning.
Formerly, and even still in some countries, Basil was considered to
possess very active medicinal properties. Its agreeable perfume
and flavour recommend it as a kitchen-garden plant.

Large Green Sweet Basil.— This appears to be the type of
the species. A low-growing plant, forming compact dense tufts
about 10 in. or I ft. high, and about as much across. Leaves
shining green, I to I J in. long ; flowers white, in long clusters.

Large Purple Sweet Basil. — A plant of the same height and
habit as the preceding, from which it differs in having the leaves
and stems of a dark purplish-brown colour, and the flowers lilac.

Lettuce-leaved Basil. — A variety with broad, crimped, un-
dulating leaves, from 2 to 4 in. long, and of a low-growing thick-set

habit, somewhat less branch-
ing than either of the two
preceding kinds ; but the
plant is apparently derived
from the same type. The
flowers, which are closely
set in clusters, make their
appearance rather later in
this variety. The leaves of
this Basil, which are much
larger than those of any
other kind, are also much
fewer in number.

Curled-leaved Basil.— A
variety with green jagged-
, . x edged, crisped, or curled

Lettuce-leaved Basil O- natural size). . & r j'_- •

leaves ; very distinct.

Bush, or Dwarf, Basil (Ocymum minimum]. — A much dvvarfer,
more compact, and more branching plant than the Common Basil ;
the leaves also are smaller. Flowers white ; seeds like those of the
Common Basil. Culture and uses the same.

Green Bush Basil.— This plant, which is of a pleasing green
colour, is particularly suitable for growing in pots, and is very
commonly cultivated in this way. It may be often seen in the
windows of the poorest houses, especially in warm countries, being
highly esteemed for the fresh, bright verdure of its foliage and its
fine strong aromatic odour. It forms very compact tufts, covered,

BASIL 23

in the flowering season, with multitudes of small clusters of rosy-
white flowers, which agreeably contrast with the intense green of
the foliage.

Compact Green Bush Basil. — The distinctive characteristic
of this variety is the very great number of stems and leaves which
it produces, causing each plant to present the appearance of a
round mass or ball of verdure, close and compact. It is, conse-
quently, far better suited for forming ornamental vases or pots of

Green Bush Basil (£ natural size).

Compact Bush Basil.

greenery than the Common Bush Basil. It develops rapidly, and
is generally preferred to all other sorts by market gardeners in the
south of France.

Purple Bush Basil.— A plant of a deep violet colour in all
its parts, except the flowers, which are of a lilac-white. It forms a
small, very compact, bushy, and leafy clump.

Compact Purple Bush Basil.— A dwarf form of the Purple
Bush Basil ; very bushy and compact, and covered with small
purplish bronzy leaves, borne on numerous threadlike stems. It is
specially suitable for pot cultivation.

East Indian, or Tree Basil (Ocymum gratissimum, L.). — The
plant which is commonly found cultivated under the "name of Tree
Basil does not appear to be the true Ocymum gratissimum, L., but
rather O. suave, Willd. It is an annual, with an upright stem,
branching from the base, and forming a pyramidal bush from
20 in. to 2 ft. high, and from I ft. to 16 in. in its greatest diameter.
Leaves oblong, pointed, toothed ; flowers lilac, in irregular spikes
at the ends of the branches. The plant has an agreeable perfume,
but it is late-growing and more suited for a warm climate -

24 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN

Faba vulgaris, Mill. ; Vicia Faba, L. Leguminosce.

French, Feve, Gourgane. German, Garten-Bohne, Puff-Bohne. Flemish, Platte Boon.
Dutch, Tuin Boon. Danish, Valske bonner. Italian, Fava. Spanish, Haba.
Portuguese, Fava.

Native of the East. — Annual. — This plant has been cultivated,
so far as we are able to learn, from the earliest ages, the large
size and alimentary properties of its seeds having drawn attention
to it and brought it into culture at some remote period of antiquity.
Stem erect, hollow, quadrangular ; leaves alternate compound,
pinnated, without any odd one, and with broad oval leaflets of a
glaucous or ashy green colour. Flowers axillary in short bunches
of two to eight, coloured white and black, sometimes tinged purple.
Pods erect or curved back, broad, green, often flattened, lined with
a kind of felt or down, and containing from three to eight seeds
variable in shape and colour. The pods are black and brittle at
maturity. As the size of the seeds varies very much in the
different kinds, we shall always mention it in the description of
each variety. In all the kinds the germinating power continues
for six years at least.

CULTURE.— Beans are usually sown, where they are to remain,
about the end of February or the beginning of March. They like
a rich, slightly humid, and well-manured soil, but they can be
grown in almost any kind of ground. Many gardeners are in the
habit of nipping oft the tops of the plants when they are coming
into flower ; but, as far as we can judge, this practice is more
effectual in preventing the plants from being attacked by aphides
than in inducing an earlier and more abundant crop. It is a good
plan, whenever it can be done, to run the hoe a few times through
the drills. There is seldom any occasion for watering, as the crop
is generally gathered before this is required.

Beans may also be sown in a frame in January, and planted
out about a month afterwards. It is also not impossible, in the
climate of Paris, to grow Beans after the winter mode of culture
which is universally practised all through the south of Europe.
According to this mode, a sowing is made at the end of October
or the beginning of November in a position with a south aspect
and well-drained soil, and the young plants are sheltered during
the winter by placing frames over them. Instead of frames, we
have sometimes seen hoops of casks stuck into the ground across
the beds, so as to form an arched support for straw mats, which
were spread over them in very frosty weather. This mode of
culture is particularly well suited for dwarf or half-dwarf varieties.
The plants which have been pushed on in this way are in full
bearing three weeks or a month earlier than those which were not
sown until spring.

THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN

In English gardens, years ago,
it was the practice to sow Broad
Beans in October, November, and
December for the earliest crops, but
this is now seldom done ; the plants
are generally raised in pots, boxes,
or frames, and afterwards trans-
planted to the open ground. This
is undoubtedly the best plan, as the
ground that would otherwise be
occupied by the seed can be ridged
or roughly dug, and exposed to the
weather to get pulverised and freed
from slugs, etc. By adopting the
method of transplantation, fuller
and more even rows can also be
ensured. The first sowing should
be made early in January in a frame
or pit from which frost is excluded,
or a sowing may be made in heat in
February, and gradually hardened
off after the plants are up. The
plants should be grown stout and
strong, and be in readiness for turn-
ing out early in March, provided the
weather is favourable. A south
border, under a wall or hedge,
should be chosen for them if possible,
and after planting, if planks or thin
boards can be placed edgeways on
each side of the rows, to protect
them from cold winds, all the better.
The rows should be planted from
2 to 2 1 ft. apart, and the plants in
the rows should be 4 or 5 in. apart.
This will be found to be room
enough for early crops if dwarf
varieties be grown. If the weather
be favourable throughout the spring,
the crop will be fit for use by the
middle of June, which is as early as
Broad Beans are generally expected
to be fit for use. Successional sow-
ings may be made in the open ground
in January and February, and the
principal sowings should be in March
and April. If late crops be required,
small sowings may be made as late
as July ; this is, however, seldom
done. In order to obtain late crops

some growers, after gathering the
produce from the main or summer
crops, cut down the plants to within
a few inches of the ground, then
give them a good watering, and in
a few days they throw out young
shoots, which eventually furnish a
fair crop of late beans, though, of
course, not so fine as the previous
crop. Others sacrifice part of the
summer crops, and cut down the
plants just as they are coming into
bloom ; the produce from these is,
of course, finer than that from plants
that have previously borne a crop.
Either of these ways is, however,
preferable to sowing for late crops,
inasmuch as the plants are hardier,
and, being well rooted, stand the
dry weather late in the summer and
the cold in the autumn. By this
method beans of fair quality may
be had up till late in November,
unless the weather be unusually
severe.

Sowings for successional and main
crops may be made on open quarters,
or between rows of Spinach or any
other crop that will be cleared
before the beans get very high ;
the former, however, is best when
ground can be spared. The seed
should be sown in rows from 2k to
3 ft. apart, the beans being placed
about 4 or 5 in. apart, and they
may either be put in with a blunt
dibble, or drills may be drawn for
them 2 or 3 in. deep. Previous to
sowing main crops, the seed should
be soaked in water for a few hours
to accelerate vegetation. Earthing-
up the young plants is advisable for
early crops, for it affords a slight
protection to the plants during cold,
windy weather ; for other crops it is
not needed. When the plants show
sufficient bloom to produce a good
crop, their tops may be picked out
in order to enhance the setting of
the blooms and development of the

26

THE: VEGETABLE GARDEN

pods. Where tall varieties are
grown, some support should be given
them to prevent their being broken
by the wind. The best support is
thick twine tied to strong stakes
driven in the ground on each side
of the rows. Long, slender sticks,
tied to the stakes, lengthways along
the rows, will answer, but the plants
are apt to get bruised against them
when swayed to and fro by the wind.
KINDS. — Although there have re-
cently been many new and valuable
additions made to our lists of beans,
there are some of the older kinds
that still maintain their position.
Dwarf kinds are sometimes pre-
ferred for the smallness of the beans
rendering them more delicate-look-
ing than some of the larger varieties.
Of dwarf kinds, Beck's Green Gem
and the Dwarf Fan are two of
the best ; the plants assume a
neat, compact habit, are abundant
croppers, and good in quality ; in
this respect, however, Beck's Gem is
preferable, on account of its green
colour. The taller kinds of Mazagan
are not worth growing in comparison
with the Long-pods and Windsors ;
but where small beans are preferred
they answer the purpose. Though
recommended in every book on the
subject, the Mazagan is for us the
worst and most useless of its race.
The Long-pods are earlier than the
Windsors, and are therefore prefer-
able to them for first and second
early crops. The Seville Long-pod
is a variety of Broad Bean that has
been for many years in cultivation
on the Continent, especially in Spain,
where it has done good service in
supplying food during times of war.
It well deserves the high commenda-
tions bestowed upon it, and ought
to be in every good garden. It is a
very early variety, with immensely
long pods, the points of which reach
the ground and seem to prop , up

the plant. It is rather tender. The
variety named Aguadulce is said
to be the true variety of this. It
is a taller and somewhat stronger
grower. The Windsor is most suit-
able for main or late crops.

SOIL, MULCHING, AND WATERING.
— A deep, well-drained, strong loam
is most suitable for Broad Beans,
with the exception of early crops,
when the soil may be of a lighter
character. Where the soil is too
light, it may be improved by tread-
ing it firmly whilst in a dry state,
or planting without digging. If the
ground in which Beans are to be
grown has been manured for previ-
ous crops, it will be found sufficiently
rich for them, as a very rich soil
will produce too luxuriant a growth,
which is inimical to the production
of pods. During dry weather it is
a good plan to give a good mulching
of half-rotted manure between the
rows of main crops of beans to save
watering ; but it should be done
before the plants are in bloom, in
order to keep the roots in a moist
condition whilst the blooms are
setting, this being highly necessary
to the production of large, full pods.
Watering is seldom necessary for
Broad Beans if grown in a deep soil;
where, however, the soil is shallow,
it may sometimes be needed, in
which case it should be thoroughly
done, and afterwards the ground
should be mulched.

In London market gardens, when
these beans are grown, dry and
light soils in warm positions are
chosen for early sowings, which con-
sist of the Early Mazagan. Sowings
of this kind are made in January
and again in February, in rows 2\ ft.
apart, running across or obliquely
in. the borders or quarters. Large
sowings of the Long-pod are made
in the latter half of February and in
March, in rows equally distant as

THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 27

for Mazagans, but with less particu- Some cultivators grow beans for

larity as regards the way in which seeding purposes, and in this case

they run, the position of the quarter, about one-half or two-thirds of the

or the quality of the soil which they pods, consisting of the earliest

occupy. The Broad Windsor, which formed, are picked off for marketing

forms the principal crop, is generally in a green or usable condition, the

sown in March. The Green Broad remainder being left to ripen. If all

Windsor is preferred by consumers ; were left the seeds would not b€

therefore market gardeners generally so large, plump, or heavy as when

grow this sort for the main crop. the pods are thus thinned out. *

USES. — The seeds, or beans, are eaten boiled, both in the green
and dried state. In the south of France the young pods are some-
times boiled and eaten. Broad 'Beans are not thought so much
of in private gardens as Kidney Beans, but by the poorer classes
they are much grown. Generally they are not considered a
remunerative crop, inasmuch as they do not continue long in
bearing. The green-seeded varieties are usually preferred to the
white ones, because they retain their green appearance when
cooked, whilst the white ones become dark brown. The Bean
suffers from the usual and bad practice of allowing the pods to
become old and hard before they are used. It is an excellent
vegetable when gathered at the right time and properly cooked,
and as it is wholly distinct in flavour from any form of Kidney or
Runner Bean, it deserves more attention both from the gardener
and the good cook. Beans are often gathered for table before they
have attained half their size ; but this is not advisable, as they
sometimes taste bitter when so small. The best-flavoured beans
are those that are full-grown but young. If any be required for
soup, a row may remain until they become black-eyed. When
gathering for exhibition, choose young, long, straight, and shapely
pods, as nearly alike as possible, and the more beans they contain
the better.

Large Common Field Bean. — Stem quadrangular, erect, about
2j ft. high, and almost always tinged with red ; leaves usually
consisting of four or five oval gray-green leaflets. At the base of
each leaf, the stem is encircled, for about two-thirds of its circum-
ference, by two broad, toothed, sheathing stipules marked with a
blackish spot. Flowers, five to eight in number, in clusters, the
first of which commences at the fifth or sixth leaf from the base of
the stem ; they are pretty large, white, marked on the standard
with dark-brown streaks, and with a spot of velvety black on each
of the wings. Pods often two or three together, sometimes curved
when fully grown, or becoming pendent from their weight, at other
times remaining quite erect They are over I in. broad, and from
5 to 6 in. long, and contain from two to four very large seeds
which are longer than broad.

* The Bean Aphis Disease, see p. 776.

28

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

There are numerous sub-varieties of this Bean : one of them is
well known in the trade as the Large Sicily Field Bean. It is a
little dwarfer, and more yellow in the foliage, and decidedly earlier
than the variety from Northern France.

Seville Long-pod Bean. — Stem quadrangular, erect, 2 to
2j ft. high, not very stout, sometimes quite green, and sometimes
slightly tinged with red. The foliage is very clearly distinguished

from that of other
varieties by its lighter
shade of green, and
by the more elongated
shape of the leaflets.
The flowers in each
cluster are not very
numerous, usually
from two to four, and
sometimes there is
even only one ; the
standard is green-
white, longer than
broad, and remains
folded in the centre,
even when the flower
is fully blown. This
peculiarity gives the
flowers the appear-
ance of being longer
and narrower in this
variety than in any
other, and they have
hardly any tinge of
red or violet. The
first cluster of flowers
usually appears in the
axil of the seventh
leaf from the base
Seville Long-pod Bean (pods § natural size). of the Stem. Pods

something over \ in.

broad, and from 8 in. to I ft. long, either solitary or in pairs, and
soon becoming pendent with their weight. They contain from
four to eight seeds each, resembling those of the Large Common
Field Bean, but generally a little smaller. This is an early variety,
but not so hardy as the preceding one ; its pods are, however,
considerably longer.

Aguadulce Long-podded Bean. — This fine Bean, with its
immense pods nearly 2 in. wide and 14 to 16 in. long, is not,

THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN 29

properly speaking, a distinct variety, but is the real Seville Long-
pod in the highest state of development. As usual, however, the
number of the pods is, in these plants, in inverse ratio to their
increased size, and while the Large Common Field Bean or the

Extra Long-podded Aguadulce Bean (pods | natural size).

Broad Windsor may have ten to fifteen pods on a stem, it is a
rare occurrence to find a stem of the Aguadulce Bean bearing
more than three or four well-grown pods.

Perfection Bean. — Vigorous, tall, with stout stem and
intense green leaves ; pods long, resembling, without equalling, those

3o THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of the Seville Bean. While the Seville variety is rather delicate,
the Perfection Bean is hardy enough for the climate of Northern
France. It may be sown like the Common Field Bean, either in
spring or in the autumn, with some protection during the winter.

Broad Windsor Bean. — Stem very stout, quadrangular, erect,
2 ft. 7 in. to 3 ft. 3 in. high, of a reddish or bronzy tinge, which
extends to the leaf-stalks, and is deeper than the similar coloration
of the stalks of the Large Common Field Bean. Leaves large,
round-oval, rather glaucous green. Flowers of medium size, re-
sembling those of the Large Common Field Bean, but not more
than from four to six in a cluster, and having a reddish or violet-

Broad Windsor Bean (§ natural size).

coloured calyx. In this variety the first cluster of flowers does not
commence before the eighth or tenth leaf from the base of the
stem. Pods solitary or in pairs, almost always curved, and usually
very broad towards the end ; they seldom contain more than two
or three well-grown seeds. The seeds are very broad, with an
almost regularly rounded outline.

Green Windsor Bean. — This differs from the preceding kind
only in the colour of its seeds, which, even when ripe, remain of a
deep green colour. Windsor Beans are very strong-growing and
productive varieties, but somewhat late, which is a serious drawback
in dry climates, where Beans are exposed to the attacks of rust
and aphides.

Small July Bean. — The general appearance of this plant very
much resembles that of the Large Common Field Bean. Stems
quadrangular, very erect, reddish, attaining a height of about

THE COMMON OR BROAD BEAN

2£ ft. ; leaves gray, with round-oval leaflets ; flowers red on the

calyx and at the base of the standard, and with well-marked black

spots on the wings, four to six in a cluster, the first cluster

appearing in the axil of

the fifth or sixth leaf; pods

erect, often three or four

together, nearly cylindri-

cal, and not much thicker

than one's finger. They

usually contain three or

four seeds each, which are

elongated, thickish, and

not flattened at the sides,

like those of the preceding

kinds. The July Bean is

a hardy kind, and less

affected by hot, dry weather

than either the Windsor

Bean or the Large Common

Field Bean, and, notwith-

standing the comparatively

small size of its seeds, it

yields almost as heavy a

crop as either of those

kinds ; for, although its

pods are shorter and nar-

rower than those of the

large-seeded varieties, they

are produced in far greater

numbers, and the seeds

are, at the same time, very uniformly well grown and well filled.

Dwarf Fan, or Cluster, Bean. — A plant growing 14 to 16 in.
high, with a quadrangular stem tinged with brownish-red or copper
colour, and rather slender, but stiff and strong leaves, ashy-green,
with rather small, oval-elongated, pointed leaflets. Flowers small,
four to six in a cluster, with a slightly reddish calyx, and the
standard more or less purple at the base. The first flowers come
in the axil of about the sixth leaf from the base of the stem. The
pods are erect, in twos or threes, each containing frpm two to four
square-sided, bulging seeds, of the same colour as those of the Large
Common Field Bean.

Beck's Dwarf Green Gem Bean. — A very compact-growing
variety, much dwarfer than the preceding kind, being only I ft. or
14 in. high. Stem stiff, green, or slightly tinged with red ; leaves
very closely set and arranged like a fan on each side of the stem ;
leaflets oval, rather pointed, glaucous green; flowers small, with a

Small July

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

purple tinge at the base of the standard ; pods small but numerous,
about the size of the little ringer, each containing three or four
dark green, very full and rounded seeds, which are not much larger

than a good-sized Horse
Bean. Both the preceding
kind and this one in par-
ticular are especially well
suited for forcing in a
frame. Although dwarf,
they are great bearers,
and even in the open air
will yield a good crop
without the drawback of
throwing too much shade
on other plants growing
near them, which the
taller - growing kinds of
Beans sometimes do.

The Very Dwarf
Scarlet Bean is a small
and very early variety,
but not very productive.
It has erect,
pods, about the

Dwarf Fan, or Cluster, Bean (pods £ natural size). the H"le ^

generally containing two
or three oblong seeds of a dark brown colour.

Early Mazagan Bean.— Under this name are cultivated several
kinds, which are certainly distinct from one another, all of them
small-seeded varieties, but varying in height and earliness. They
usually produce numerous erect, very slightly flattened pods, each
containing three or four seeds intermediate in size between that of
the July Bean and a large Horse Bean.

There are two other varieties : one with pure white and the
other with red flowers. They are sometimes cultivated, but are of
no great merit. There is also a Broad Bean with yellow pods, like
those of the Butter Beans, but unfit for use, and the plant is a mere
curiosity.

KIDNEY BEAN, or FRENCH BEAN

Phaseohis vulgaris, L. Legummoscz.

French, Haricot, Phaseole. German, Bohne. Flemish and Dtitch, Boon. Danish,
Havebonner. Italian, Fagiuolo. Spanish, Habichuela, Judia, Frijol. Portuguese,
Feijao.

Native of South America. — Annual. — A plant of rapid growth,
flowering and seeding soon after it is sown. Stem slender, twining,

slender
of

sze

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 33

usually channelled or angular, rough to the touch, always twining
in the direction of from right to left (but there are several dwarf
varieties, with stiff stems, which do not require any support).
Leaves large, composed of three triangular leaflets, which have the
angles at the base rounded, are rough on the surface, and of various
shapes and sizes. The flowers are produced in the axils of the
leaves, in clusters containing from two to eight flowers each. They
resemble other papilionaceous flowers, but are rather irregular in
shape, the petals being often twisted in an unsymmetrical manner,
and the keel especially being generally reduced to two small blades
which are more or less convex and non-adherent to each other.
Hence it results that the pistil is not so completely covered as it is
in most other papilionaceous flowers, and consequently spontaneous
crossing very frequently occurs amongst the varieties of this plant.
The pods and seeds of the different kinds vary much in shape,
colour, size, and substance.

We shall describe each variety separately, merely observing
here that the difference in the texture of the pods has led to the
division of the plants into two classes, viz. the Tough-podded, the
pods of which become hard and leathery when ripe, and the Edible-
podded, the pods of which never become stringy, even when dried.
The germinating power of the seeds continues for three years.

The Kidney Bean does not appear to have been known to the
ancients ; for, although Columella and Virgil mention a plant
under the name of Phaseolus or Phaselus, this could not have been
our Kidney Bean, which, even in Italy, does not accommodate
itself to being sown in autumn, like the Phaseolus of these authors.
It is certain that the Kidney Bean is a native of a warm climate,
and in the absence of positive documentary proofs of its original
habitat and the time of its introduction into cultivation, there
are good grounds for assenting to the opinion of Monsieur Alph.
de Candolle, that it was originally a native of South America,
and was introduced into Europe in the sixteenth century. The
old French writers on kitchen-garden subjects do not mention it
before that period, and give it but scant notice in comparison with
that which they bestow on Peas and Garden Beans. Since their
time, however, and chiefly owing to the power which the plant
possesses of producing numerous varieties, its culture has acquired
a considerable amount of importance. In France, every year,
many millions of kilogrammes of the seeds are harvested (the
kilogramme is equal to 2\ Ib. avoirdupois) ; and, -besides this,
considerable quantities are imported, and form a large part of
the national food. They contain more azote or nitrogen than
almost any other vegetable, and their chemical composition in
some degree approaches that of the flesh of animals.

CULTURE. —The Kidney Bean is very sensitive of cold, and

34 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

will not grow well or vigorously in a temperature which is not over
50° Fahr. It is destroyed by one or two degrees of frost. It
likes a rich, light, well-drained soil, with which manure has been
thoroughly well mixed, and it may be observed that it does better
in soil which has been well manured in the previous year than in
newly manured ground. This remark applies to field cultivation,
as well as to that of the kitchen-garden.

We will now rapidly review the various modes of cultivation
under which Kidney Beans are grown. As they delight in fresh
air and light, they are seldom sown in hot-beds for a first crop
before February (they are sometimes so sown in December or
January, but it is not unusual to see plants which are raised at
that time pine away or damp off). The seed is sown in a frame,
placed on a bed of fresh manure, which is covered with good soil or
leaf-mould to the depth of 5 or 6 in. Air should be regularly
given whenever the weather permits, taking care at the same time
not to bring down the temperature to a degree that would be
injurious. As the plants increase in size, all sickly or discoloured
leaves should be removed, as well as any of the healthy ones which
give too much shade or hinder the free circulation of the air.

The first crop may be gathered eight or ten weeks after sowing,
and sometimes sooner when the weather is favourable. Sowings
on hot-beds may be continued until March. The plants so raised
in April are usually planted out in the open air ; and, in fact;
plants raised in hot-beds may be always advantageously pricked
out. Some gardeners keep their forced Flageolet Beans growing,
and after taking from them a crop of green pods, leave some to
ripen, from which they obtain another crop of fresh ripe Beans in
May, when they command a high price. The varieties which are
generally used for this purpose are the Dwarf Dutch Kidney
Bean, which is much the same as the White Flageolet ; the Early
Etampes Flageolet, and the Scalloped-leaved Flageolet. The Black
Belgian Kidney Bean and the Yellow Chalandray are also well
adapted for forcing.

The time for making a sowing, in the open air, of Kidney
Beans, the pods of which are intended to be gathered in the green
state, commences as soon as all danger of frost is over, and the soil
has become sufficiently warm. Successional sowings may be made
from April to August. The seed may be sown either in holes
made with the dibble, or in drills, according as the kinds sown
vary in vigour and growth. This mode of culture requires hardly
any attention except the use of the hoe and watering in hot
weather. Some gardeners are in the habit of earthing-up the
plants at the first hoeing, and this generally appears to be pro-
ductive of good results ; the flowers come into bloom continuously,
and the growth of the young pods is very rapid, so that gatherings

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN 35

may be made from the same drills every two or three days, and if
the plants which were latest sown are protected from frost, green
pods may be gathered in the open air up to the end of October.
It is usually the tough-podded kinds which are grown for use in
the green state, and the preference is given to those varieties in
which the young pods are long, straight, very green, and rather
cylindrical than flattish in shape. The kinds which are chiefly
grown about Paris for this purpose are Swiss Kidney Beans,
especially the Gray Swiss and the Black Flageolet.

In gardens, hardly any kinds are grown for the seeds or beans
except the White or Green Flageolets, and they are cultivated just
in the same way as the kinds of which the pods are used in the
green state. The pods are gathered when they begin to grow
yellow, and are no longer brittle. Dry seeds are obtained by
allowing them to ripen thoroughly, but some may be preserved
tender for winter use by taking up the plants a short time before
the pods are ripe, drying them in the shade, and then packing
them closely together in a dry place, when the leaves will gradually
fall off, while the pods continue attached, and the seeds will remain
tender and possess nearly the same flavour as if they had been just
newly gathered.

Tall-growing Kidney Beans, whether grown for the sake of the
green pods or the seeds, are treated in exactly the same way as
those already described, except that they require to be supplied
with poles or branches to support their climbing stems. These
supports, which are of different materials in different districts, vary
in height from 5 to nearly 10 ft, according to the height of the
variety grown. Those used about Paris consist chiefly of Chestnut
loppings, with few branches or none, and when staked they are
usually inclined, so that two rows of stakes meet at the top. The
object of this arrangement is to make the rows firmer, and better
able to resist high winds. Sometimes, for greater security, every
two opposite stakes are tied together near the top, thus forming
a series of gables, which are fastened to poles laid lengthways in
the forks, and, in this way, although it may seem a little trouble-
some, a structure of great strength and stability is obtained.

Though we by no means make DOORS. — An early sowing is gene-
such good use of the Kidney Bean rally made, in order to be able to
in its many and valuable dried pick Kidney Beans before it is
forms as the French do, its culture possible to have those of the Scarlet
in Britain is of the highest import- Runner type in bearing ; but as
ance, and we look to its being much soon as these come in, French
more so in the future, when the Beans too often are almost lost
value of the many kinds described sight of. For small gardens the
in this book is generally known. French Bean is invaluable as a

SOWING AND CULTURE OUT-OF- summer vegetable, being easily

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

grown, many kinds requiring no
stakes, and being one of the most
remunerative of vegetable crops.
It may be had out-of-doors both
earlier and later in the season than
the taller-growing kinds, owing to
its dwarf habit adapting itself to
any situation — as, for instance,
under hedges or walls, or other
sheltered positions ; it also comes
into bearing much more quickly
than Runners.

Where French Beans are grown
in the open air without protection,
it is impossible to have them fit .to
gather before the latter end of June
or the beginning of July, unless it
be indeed an exceptionally favour-
able season. Where, however, they
are sown in a warm, dry situation,
and somewhat protected from cold
winds and late frosts, they may be
had fit for table during the second
and third weeks in June. Where
it is desirable to have Beans out-of-
doors as early in the season as
possible, it is a good plan to sow
thickly under hand-lights in a warm
corner, and then transplant when
the plants have made the first pair
of rough leaves. After preparing
the ground in which they are to
be planted, which should be the
warmest, driest, and most sheltered
available, they may be carefuHy
lifted with as much soil adhering
to the roots as possible, and planted
in rows i^ or 2 ft. apart, or in
patches, whichever is most practic-
able ; in either case the plants
should be about 6 in. apart.
If the planting be done early in
the day, they may receive a gentle
watering to settle the soil round
the roots ; if otherwise, it will be
better to leave them unwatered
until the next morning. - All pos-
sible protection should then be
given them ; if hand - lights be
plentiful they are the best, in which

case planting in patches should be
practised, as the lights can be more
easily placed over them ; but small
twigs of Laurel or Fir fixed neatly
round them answer the purpose
in the absence of anything better.
Rough hay-bands stretched length-
ways over the rows, about 6 or
8 in. from the ground, and firmly
secured to stout stakes driven in
the ground at each end of the rows,
may be employed with advantage.
A rough frame, made with sticks
driven in the ground and others
tied across them to admit of mats,
straw hurdles, or any other pro-
tecting material being laid upon
them at night, is also useful ; but
whatever is used to protect them,
care must be taken so to place it
as to avoid draughts as much as
possible. Sowings for this purpose
may be made in the beginning of
April. If the weather be favour-
able, the ground in which early
Beans are to be grown should be
deeply dug and left rather rough.
The next day, when the sun is
going down, the ground should be
again turned over with a fork, in
order to turn the warm soil under-
neath and expose the cold to the
next day's sun. If this can be done
two or three days consecutively, a
great advantage will be gained.
The last time on which the soil is
moved it should be made fine on
the top, to prevent the under-soil
again becoming cold.

When the seed is sown where it
is to remain, drills may be drawn
with a hoe, 2 ft. apart and 2 in.
deep, and sufficiently wide to admit
of two rows of Beans being placed
3 or 4 in. apart. The distance
from bean to bean in the rows is
usually 8 or 9 inches. Where seed
is no object, they may be sown
much thicker, and thinned out to
the required distances apart, after

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN

37

they are up, by removing the weakest
plants. In any case, a few extra
seeds should be thrown in at the
ends of the rows to provide for
filling up blanks, which often occur
in early crops when the ground is
cold and wet. The earliest sowing
out-of-doors should be made the
second or third week in April, if
the weather be favourable, otherwise
it is better to wait a little longer.
It is not advisable to plant very
largely for early crops, unless they
are wanted in quantity ; it will be
found better to make two or three
small sowings at intervals of a week
or ten days during April ; after that
the principal or main sowings may
be made until the middle of June,
after which time make a few smaller
sowings for autumn use. The last
sowing should not be later than the
end of July, unless protection can
be afforded the plants in the autumn.
For principal crops the plants should
be thinned out to 9 in. or i ft.
apart in the row, the rows being
2 1 or 3 ft. asunder, according to the
varieties grown.

Earthing-up the row is a point
that has been much disputed, some
growers being of opinion that it
is beneficial, while others think
the reverse. For early crops we
should, however, strongly recom-
mend earthing-up, as it has a
tendency to keep the soil around the
roots in a drier, and consequently
a warmer, state than it otherwise
would .be; for the main crops, how-
ever, we would recommend rather
deeper planting, and heavy mulch-
ings in dry weather in preference
to earthing-up. Stopping the points
of the shoots is practised by some
growers ; it is, however, immaterial
for general crops, but in the case
of early Beans and those grown
under glass it is advantageous.

SOIL. — French Beans like a light,

rich, sweet soil; therefore if the
ground does not already possess these
qualities, good rotten manure or
leaf-mould should be added. If
worms abound, a good dressing of
soot or lime should be given, and
if this can be done in the winter,
and the ground thrown into ridges
or roughly dug, it will be all the
better. For pots and beds under
glass the soil should consist of
three-quarters light turfy loam, and
one -quarter decomposed manure or
leaf-mould. Soil in which Cucum-
bers have recently been growing
will generally answer well for
Beans ; in all cases a sprinkling of
soot amongst it will be found bene-
ficial. We have seen trimmings
from the edgings of walks, chopped
up and mixed with fresh horse-
droppings, used for pot culture with
the very best results.

MULCHING AND WATERING. — A
good mulching of seaweed or half-
rotted manure from old linings, or
litter from Vine borders, applied
between the rows of all kinds of
Kidney Beans that are grown out-
of-doors, will be found beneficial in
keeping the soil about the roots
in a moist condition, and in pro-
moting a free and luxuriant growth,
which is highly necessary to the
production of long supplies of fine,
tender, and juicy Beans. Copious
waterings at the roots will be neces-
sary for all kinds of Beans, wher-
ever they are grown, when they are
coming into flower, if the weather
be dry — otherwise, instead of the
blooms setting, they will fall off.
Manure-water may also be advan-
tageously applied after they are set,
but not before, as it promotes so
much growth, which is inimical to
bearing. Guano-water may be given
to those grown in pots with advan-
tage ; but it is no better than good
manure-water from the stable-yard,

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

or that made from cow manure.
Where, however, the latter is used,
a little lime should be previously
dissolved in it, otherwise it has a
tendency to make the soil sour and
breed worms. Water in all cases
should be applied in a tepid state ;
and avoid pouring it close to the
bases of the stems, as they may be
injured by so doing.

CULTURE IN PITS AND FRAMES.
— The method to be adopted for
growing Beans under glass must
necessarily depend upon the nature
of the structures in which they are
to be grown. Where only cold-pits
and frames are employed Beans can-
not, of course, be obtained during
the winter months, but by a little
attention and skill they may be had
very late in the autumn, and much
earlier in the spring than they can
be obtained in the open air. If
heating material, such as stable
litter and leaves, be plentiful, sow-
ings may be made in pits or frames
early in March. If pits be used,
they should be filled up with
heating material to within 2 ft. of
the glass, firmly treading it down
as the work proceeds. This done,
a layer of rotten manure or leaf-
mould may be spread over the litter
to the thickness of 3 or 4 in. ;
6 or 8 in. of soil may then be
placed on the top, the lights put
on and allowed to remain until the
soil is found to have got warm,
when the beans may be put in
rather thickly, eventually thinning
out so as to leave the plants 6 in.
apart each way. If the soil be dry,
watering will be necessary, but too
much moisture must be avoided at
this season of the year. If a lining
of warm manure can be put round
the pit it will be beneficial to the
growth of the plants. A thick
covering will be necessary at night
to protect the plants from frost.

Where wooden frames or boxes are
used, a good bed of leaves and litter
should be made, and the box should
be placed upon it, building the
lining up round the box to the level
of the lights, as is done in the
case of Cucumbers and Melons. If
treated afterwards as recommended
for pits, the plants will grow rapidly
— i.e. if the weather be at all genial.
When they have made two joints
beyond the seed-leaves, the plants
may be pricked out, in order to
keep them dwarf and sturdy, and
cause them to throw out stronger
side-shoots than they oth erwise would
do. If a few small twigs be stuck
in the soil between the plants, they
will not be so liable to get broken.
Abundance of air will be necessary
when the plants are well established,
but it must be given with care, as
a rush of cold air suddenly admitted
would cause the tender foliage to
shrivel, and render the plants worth-
less. If it be found that too much
steam accumulates in the frame
during the night, it will be necessary
to leave a " crack " of air on. Beans
may be obtained in this way by the
end of May or beginning of June,
and, if properly treated, will yield
a fair supply until the early outdoor
crops come into use. If, however,
there be convenience, another sowing
may be made in the same way a
fortnight later, in order to ensure a
supply in the event of any disaster
befalling the first outdoor crop.

Some growers prefer raising the
plants in pots or boxes and trans-
planting them into frames, and
where time can be spared this plan
is not without advantages ; others
prefer growing them entirely in
pots, and plunging them in the pits
and frames. Thus managed, they
come into bearing rather sooner, but
they do not generally last so long,
neither is the produce so fine as

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN

39

from those planted out. Where there
are pits heated by flues or hot-water
pipes, good Beans may be produced
throughout the winter by adopting
the same mode of culture as that
recommended in the case of cold-
pits, with the exception that linings
will be unnecessary, neither will
bottom heat be needed j but where
it is not used, growing in pots
placed upon boards near the glass
is preferable to planting out, as the
roots are not then surrounded by
such a bulk of cold soil. In order
to prolong the season, a sowing
may be made in August in cold-pits
or frames ; those lately cleared of
Melons or Cucumbers will answer
perfectly. It is a good plan, before
sowing, to choose a fine, sunny day,
and give the soil a good soaking of
water, and to wash well all the wood
or brickwork with a syringe, after
which close the lights and let the
sun have full power on the glass ;
this will quickly put an end to
insects. After sowing, the lights
may be left off night and day, until
the coldness of the weather neces-
sitates their being put on. A good
warm covering should be afforded
during cold nights. By this means
a good supply of Beans may be had
until late in November, unless the
weather be very severe. For this
crop stopping the shoots is unneces-
sary, inasmuch as the plants will
continue longer in bearing if left
undisturbed.

FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. —
Forcing Kidney Beans in Novem-
ber, December, and January is not
•easy work, as unless the house in
which they are growing is light,
airy, and well warmed, the crop
can never be a profitable one. In
badly heated damp structures Kid-
ney Beans may be induced to grow,
and even bloom, but very few pods
will be formed. Warm air alone

suits them when in flower during
the shortest days, and where this
cannot be given freely forcing had
better be deferred until February.
When the days are lengthening and
brightening, forcing is easy. I have
grown them in beds, in pits, in
wooden frames, in boxes, and in
pots, and for convenience I prefer
and recommend the latter. The
seeds may be sown in 3 or 4 in.
pots. These should have a few
leaves put into the bottom of each ;
then fill them half-way up with a
mixture of sand, loam, and leaf-soil
in the proportion of one part of the
first and last to two of the loam.
When all have been half filled and
the soil made firm, six or eight
seeds should be put into each ; then
cover them over with more soil.

As soon as sowing has been
finished the whole should be placed
in a house or pit, where the tem-
perature ranges from 60° to 70°.
Do not give any water until the
growths are seen pushing through
the soil ; then never let them surfer
from want of it. When the young
plants have attained a height of 4 in.,
they should be put into their fruiting
pots. These should be 8 or 9 in.
ones, and to begin with they should
be properly drained ; over the
drainage place a layer of leaves or
rough pieces of soil. The mixture
of soil this time should be sub-
stantial ; no sand or leaf-soil need
form part of it ; loam and half-
decayed manure should be the sole
ingredients. Old Mushroom-bed
manure answers well for this pur-
pose, and we prefer it to any other.

The roots should not be dis-
turbed when taken out of the small
pots, and three or four of the small
potfuls may be put together in one
of a larger size. One hundred pots
of seedlings may thus be reduced
to thirty. Firm potting induces

40

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

robust and fruitful growth. When
potted, they should be again placed
in a genial atmosphere, in which
they will grow on rapidly and be
in bloom from five to six weeks
after sowing. Then it will take the
pods about a fortnight to swell up,
and the crop will be ready for the
table in about eight weeks after
sowing. As the pots fill with roots,
large quantities of water must be
given them, and frequent syringing
as well, as having the atmosphere
in which they are growing humid
will prevent the attacks of insects.
Red spider and thrips are very fond
of indoor Kidney Beans, but both
may be checked by water. When
potted in good soil, manure-water
will not be required until the first
pods have been formed ; then it
may be given them in quantity so
long as they continue to bear.
Sowings made every three weeks
until the middle of April will keep up
a constant supply of fine fresh pods
until those sown outside come in.

Those who wish to keep up a
constant supply of forced Beans
should sow a quantity every fort-
night, beginning in September. We
have kept up a fair supply by sow-
ing five dozen potfuls at a time,
but this, of course, must be done
according to the demand. At times
we have placed only one of the
small potfuls of young plants in
the 8 in. one, but where space was
limited we have put three small
potfuls into this size. When this
can be conveniently done, it is a
profitable way of growing Beans, as
a great many more are secured from
the pots with the most plants than
from the others, and the space re-
quired for both is about the same.

When in bloom the flowers
should be kept as dry as possible,
as the fruit forms with more cer-
tainty than when the blooms are

damp. We never allow any of the
growths to fall over the sides of
the pots, as this checks them ; but
when any of them are so tall or
weak as not to be able to stand
without support, pieces of birch
from old brooms are put in to hold
them up. As soon as any of the
pods become large enough to
gather, they should be removed
from the plants at once, as there
is nothing so much against the
production of a long succession of
pods from the same plants as allow-
ing some of the first-formed pods to
become old. — J. M.

KIDNEY BEANS TO FORCE. — It
was generally supposed that the
best forcing Beans were Newington
Wonder, Sir Joseph Paxton, Early
Prolific, and Osborn's New Early
Forcing. Mr. R. Gilbert then took
to forcing Canadian Wonder, and
it is likely that a great many more
kinds might easily be forced.
Amongst the French varieties, the
most generally grown for that pur-
pose are Triumph of the Frames,
Etampes, Black Prince, Chalandray.

CULTURE IN MARKET GARDENS.

When Peas and Broad Beans
begin to get comparatively scarce,
French Beans are always welcomed
in the London markets. They
always command a sale, provided
they are good and fresh, and over-
stocking the market with them is
almost a thing unknown ; but when
large quantities of them are intro-
duced prices are of course affected.
Under any conditions, however,
and all through the summer, a good
crop of Beans is a profitable one,
and where soil and situation are at
all suitable, market growers culti-
vate French Beans in large quanti-
ties. The principal kinds grown
are the Newington Wonder and

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN

Long-podded Negro, which, although
old varieties, are reckoned to be the
best for the market. Their produc-
tive qualities are great, for when
well attended to as regards timely
picking of the pods, they continue
fresh, vigorous, and fruitful for a
long time, and their pods, as a rule,
are less apt to turn tough and
unusable with age than is the case
with some varieties. The Black
Belgian has also found its way into
the market-gardens ; it is a good,
dwarf, early sort, much like the
Negro, of which it is considered to
be a variety. It is very useful for
late sowings and for early frame
work. Some growers prefer the
Newington Wonder to all other
sorts ; it is a very prolific dwarf-
growing kind. Other growers prefer
the Negro, which they grow in
frames, for their earliest, main, and
latest crops ; but most of them also
grow the Newington Wonder. The
Canadian Wonder or Red Flageolet
is one which will doubtless be
grown largely for market. It is a
robust grower, a good cropper, and
its pods are nearly as large as
those of a Scarlet Runner and of
good quality.

Early crops in market gar-
dens are grown in frames, such as
have been cleared of Cauliflower
and Lettuce plants; the mould in
the frames is pointed over with a
spade, and. the beans are sown in
four rows under each light, and
about 3 or 4 in. from seed to
seed in the row, when the soil is
dry. The middle of March is the
common lime for sowing in frames,
and then the sashes are kept close
till the seeds have germinated, when
they are tilted up a little at the
back in favourable weather; but
care is always taken to keep them
close in the case of cold winds, and
to cover them over with mats or

litter in the event of frost. As the
plants advance they are treated
more hardily, but judiciously, ac-
cording to the weather. After the
middle of May, when all fear of
frost has passed, the sashes are
entirely drawn off throughout the
day, if fine, and replaced at night.
Whilst growing, plenty of water is
given them at the roots, and pick-
ing commences about the second
or third week in June, or about
three weeks sooner than the earliest
border crops come into use. A
few frames, too, are also frequently
occupied by French Beans sown
thickly, for the purpose of trans-
planting thence to the open ground,
and to fill any blanks that may exist
in the frames in which the sowings
for fruiting therein have been made.
The first outdoor crop is
usually transplanted from such
frames, and the warmest possible
position is selected for this pur-
pose ; the time for so doing entirely
depends on the state of the weather
and nature of the ground. If the
weather be fine, the soil moderately
dry and light, and the position warm
and sheltered, the plants are com-
monly transplanted during the first
fortnight of April, but if otherwise,
they are delayed a little later. They
are then lifted with as much earth
adhering to their roots as possible,
and are planted in little patches
under hand-lights. The usual way
is to draw lines 3 ft. apart across the
border, others 2\ ft. asunder length-
ways, and upon the middle of every
little square thus marked place an
ordinary hand-light, under which
place six or eight plants. If there
be not sufficient hand-lights for the
whole space to be planted, half-
bushel vegetable baskets are in-
verted over the plants; and, as they
are so open to the wind, they are
sometimes covered for a time witlv

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

mats. As soon as the Beans have
got a good hold of the soil and
begun to grow, their protection is
removed. Great care must be exer-
cised with hand-light Beans, other-
wise they are a deceptive crop, and
sometimes die off altogether, espe-
cially when nursed too tenderly and
changed too suddenly, if the ground
be cold and wet, and their top cover-
ing insufficient. Those grown in
frames, and which come into bear-
ing early in June, last in good
picking condition for six weeks ;
and those in warm borders begin to
fruit in the last week of June or
first week in July, and continue to
yield a fair crop for nearly two
months in a moderately moist
season, if kept closely picked. The
first main crop immediately follows
the border ones, and, as a rule, lasts
the longest. Drought makes them
short-lived sometimes, but in rich
soils, and warm, moist seasons, the
yield is so heavy that it is scarcely
possible to pick them as quickly as
they grow. Drought, too, induces
red spider, with which large fields
are sometimes completely overrun ;
and although this pest is very pre-
judicial to the health and longevity
of the crop, there is no remedy
for it.

French Beans are gross feeders ;
they require manurial substances of
such a character as can be speedily
turned to account ; therefore, land
that was richly manured for the
previous crop — such as for Celery
— and which has afterwards again
been liberally dressed with short
manure, such as that from Mush-
room-beds or old Cucumber-pits,
suits them perfectly. The crop to
succeed such as are grown under
hand-lights is planted on a south
border, in front of a wall or thick
hedge if possible, which is dug
over and lined off in cross-rows

at 1 8 in. apart, drawing the lines
in the form of seed-furrows with a
hoe. Herein are planted Beans
5 in. asunder in the row ; they are
earthed-up in due time, and, if the
weather be favourable, come into
bearing three weeks after those
grown in frames. Some growers
erect barricades of mats in an up-
right position to stakes driven in the
earth, and placed to the windward
side of the borders ; and they also
surround frames containing them,
but not covered with sashes, with
the same protection to ward off cold
and frosty winds.

Out-of-door sowing begins
during the first fortnight in April,
just as the state of the weather and
soil permits, and the warmest avail-
able position is selected for the pur-
pose. If the ground be free from
all other crops at the time of sowing,
there is more need for a sheltered
place than if it were cropped. In
sowing, the lines are drawn at 2,
2 j, and sometimes 3 ft. apart, and
the seeds planted about 4 or 5 in.
asunder. The earliest crop is often
sown in drills drawn between lines
of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, or Let-
tuces. These crops, instead of being
injurious to the French Beans when
they appear above ground, are very
beneficial to them, inasmuch as they
protect them from cold winds until
they have gained some strength and
the weather becomes mild and warm,
by which time the bulk of the Cauli-
flowers will have been removed for
market. Even then, however, the
Beans do not get all the space to
themselves, for no sooner is the earth
cleared of the other crop than it is
loosened a little between every alter-
nate line, and those spaces replanted
with Lettuces or similar crops. Thus
one space contains another catch
crop while the other is empty; and
by means of having this empty space

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN

43

to walk in, the women can pick two
lines of Beans, one on either side of
the empty alley, and never disturb
the other crops in the alternate alleys.
Should the French Beans have come
up well, and be nearly ready for
picking before the first occupants
of the soil are entirely removed, the
alleys are not cropped again until
they become exhausted. The drills
for sowing are drawn in the morning
of a fine day and left until the after-
noon, when seeds are sown and some
earth drawn over them.

The first main sowing is made
in the open fields about the second
or third week in April, under the
same circumstances as that already
mentioned, or the field may have
been previously planted out with
Cos Lettuces in lines 12, 15, or
1 8 in. apart; between every two
lines of these would be sown one of
Beans. Along both sides of Aspara-
gus ridges Beans also often find a
place. Some growers sow late crops
in rows 4 ft. apart, and plant two
rows of Coleworts in every interven-
ing alley. Before the seeds appear
the soil immediately over the seeds
is gone over and slightly loosened
with an iron-toothed rake, so as to
permit of an easy egress of the seed-
lings. When sown in bare fields,
even though Lettuces be planted
.amongst them, a little ridge of soil
is frequently drawn to the north or
windward side of them as an addi-
tional protection from cold winds.
Whilst the plants are growing they
are carefully attended to as regards
keeping them clean and hoeing
the soil, and when they reach 4 in.
in height they are earthed up a
little. The catch crops, too, are
cleared away as soon as they are
ready, in order to give the French
Beans every opportunity of a healthy
development. Successive sowings
-are made every fortnight or three

weeks, until the end of June, by
some, but most of the large growers
sow about April 8th and 2oth, the
first and last week in May, and
the first week in July. The last
sowing consists of the Negro, and
just yields a good crop of young
and fine pods before being destroyed
by frost ; whereas, were they sown
a fortnight later, they would be
apt to be nipped when coming
into bloom.

Gathering is well attended to,
for if full-grown pods be allowed to
remain too long on the plants they
soon cease to bear. The Beans are
gathered by women into baskets,
which, when full, they carry on
their heads to the end of the rows,
there to leave them to be carted
home, where they are washed to
remove the grit. They are then
packed into round half-bushel vege-
table baskets, which are covered
with Rhubarb leaves fastened down
with withies, and piled one above
another on the waggons that convey
them to market three times a week.
Most market-gardeners save their
own seed, and a piece of the main
sowing is generally selected for this
purpose. The plants in the rows to
be saved for seed are first subjected
to two or three pickings for market ;
then they are left untouched until
the beans are fully ripe, when the
plants are pulled up by the roots,
tied into little bunches, and slung
in pairs across a fence or rail to dry.
Sometimes, too, the haulm is spread
over sashes to dry, and, in the event
of wet weather, is strewed under
some spare sashes, where it gets
well dried without getting wet.
They are then housed, and during
wintry weather are threshed, cleaned,
and stored in rough brown paper or
canvas bags, or placed in drawers,
or in the corner of a loft, until
sowing time arrives.

I. French Bean Black-speckled.

Emperor of Russia.
Pride of Lyons.
Black Prince.
Dwarf Parisian.

10

II. French Bean Dwarf Prolific.
44

6. French Bean Marvel of Paris.

7. „ ,, Black Negro.

8. ,, ,, Black Hermitage.

9. „ „ The Shah.

10. ,, „ Dwarf Lyonnais Long-pod,

KIDNEY BEAN, OR FRENCH BEAN

45

USES. — The young and tender pods of many kinds are eaten
boiled. Every one knows the use which is made in cookery of the
seeds or beans, either when dried or when gathered before they are
quite ripe, but when the pods can just be opened without difficulty.
And lastly, the Edible-podded or Mange-tout varieties are used
from the time the seeds begin to swell until they are quite ripe.
We heartily wish that English housekeepers and gardeners would
look into the qualities of many of the fine varieties described in
this book. Apart from the greater variety of valuable kinds of the
types they know so well, two very valuable series deserve attention
— those of which the pods may be eaten when large and mature,
and the Flageolet kinds, which are very little used with us. *

TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

French, Haricots a ecosser.
Italian, Fagiuoli da sgusciare.

I. TALL-GROWING
VARIETIES

Soissons Large
Runner Bean. — A. plant
with a slender green
stem, growing 6|- ft. high
or something more.
Leaves pretty large, at
wide intervals from each
other; leaflets moderately
crimped, rounded at the
base, dark green slightly
yellow ; lower leaves
larger than the upper
ones ; flowers white, pass-
ing into yellow ; pods
green, but turning to
yellow when ripe, broad,
somewhat curved, and
generally irregular in
shape, owing to the un-
equal growth of the seeds,
which are seldom more
than four in number, and
are white, kidney-shaped,
and more or less humpy
or round - backed ; they
are nearly I in. long,

about \ in. broad, and Soissons Large Pole Bean.

* Climbing French Beans, see pp. 758, 759.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

nearly | in. thick. They are late in ripening. The dried seeds of
this variety are highly esteemed for their delicate flavour and the
thinness of the skin. The plant is found to succeed in the greatest
perfection in its native district, where it most probably enjoys
conditions of soil and climate which are specially favourable to it ;
but, when grown under a warmer sky, it sometimes suffers from the
heat — the skin of the seed becomes thickened, and the seed loses
its fine quality, and also degenerates in size and colour.

Soissons Green-seeded Pole Bean. — In growth this
variety is very much the same as the preceding, and equally

vigorous and very pro-
ductive. Pods long,
broad, slightly curved.
Seeds thick, kidney-
shaped, a little over f in.
long and % in. broad, less
than £ in. thick. This
variety is remarkable for
the green colour of its
seeds, as much so as
in some of the dwarf
Beans, such as the Green
Flageolet and the Green
Bagnolet ; while the crop
produced is considerably
larger.

White Dutch, or
Scimitar, Bean (H. Sabre
a rames). — A very vigor-
ous-growing kind, nearly
10 ft. in height. Stem
thick and green ; leaves
very large, deep green,
crimped ; flowers large,
white, fading to nankeen
yellow, and forming long
clusters ; pods straight,
sometimes undulating on
the sides, 10 in. to I ft.
long, containing eight or
nine seeds each, numerous,

~ ., „ produced in succession for

White Dutch, Scimitar, or Case-knife Bean r . A. . „

(TV natural size), a long time, especially

when the first have been

gathered green ; seeds white, glistening, kidney-shaped, very like
those of the Large White Runner, but more regular in shape and

TALL TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 47

one-third less in size, seldom f in. in length. They ripen rather late.
The young pods may be used as green Haricots. The seed or bean,
when used fresh from the pod, is one of the best ; it is also very
good when dried. This is certainly one of the best varieties; the
only objection to it is that it requires very long stakes when
growing. The Germans cultivate a great number of sub-varieties
of it, characterised chiefly by having broader and straighter pods ;
but, notwithstanding numerous trials, we have never found any of
them to surpass or even equal the variety here described ; it is the
most tender for use and also the most productive.

White Sallandre Improved Pole Bean. — Height not exceed-
ing 5 ft., but very vigorous growing. Stem stout and branch-
ing ; leaves broad, crimped, light green more or less striped
with darker green ; flowers yellowish white. Pods about 6 in.
long, | in. broad, flat, light green, containing six white elongated
seeds, like those of the White Swiss Bean £ in. to f in. long, a
little over J in. broad and about J in. thick. This variety, raised
in the vicinity of Laon, is one of our best Pole Beans, and very
productive ; the pods are numerous, very long and well filled.

Large White Liancourt Kidney Bean. — Stem green, slender,
tall, reaching a height of from 7 ft. to nearly 10 ft. ; leaves large, of
a rather dark green, not quite so much crimped as those of the
Soissons Bean, the upper ones much smaller than the lower ones ;
flowers white, turning yellow after impregnation ; pods longer and
narrower than those of the Soissons Bean, slightly curved, each
containing about five or six flat, slightly kidney-shaped seeds,
rather irregular in form, like those of the Large White Runner (but
of a dull or dead white, while the seeds of the latter variety glisten
like porcelain), about f in. long, a little over £ in. broad, and less
than £ in. thick. This is a rather hardy, strong-growing, productive,
and half-late variety, and is chiefly grown for the ripe dried seeds.

Chartres Red Kidney Bean. — This kind requires hardly any
staking, as the plant is of compact growth and seldom more than
3 or 4 ft. in height. Leaves slightly crimped ; flowers white or
inclining to yellow, large ; pods 4 or 5 in. long, slightly curved,
each containing about five or six flat, short seeds, which are often
square at one or both ends, of a deep wine-lees-red colour, and
having an almost black circle around the hilum ; their average
length is about \ in., breadth a little over £ in., and thickness less
than \ in. They ripen early.

Long Scarlet Pole Flageolet Bean.— Contrary to what
happens usually, this Pole variety is of more recent introduction
than its dwarf form, which has been cultivated and appreciated
for a long time. It possesses the same qualities of pod and seed,
its gain being to produce on a given surface of soil a much larger
crop and for a longer period.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Extra Early Pole Bean.— A variety, not exceeding 5 ft. ;
leaves large, light green, lightly crimped. Pods straight, full, green,
often in bunches of five or six. Seed white, flat, very small. This

Bean is remarkable for
producing good-sized, ser-
viceable pods at a time
when most of the other
pole Beans are hardly be-
ginning • to flower. It is
at this early stage of their
development that the pods
ought to be used, for they
harden quickly and are
never altogether free from
parchment. The seed,
though small when quite
dry, may be used in a fresh
state, when the pods are
turning yellow.

Round White Rice
Runner Kidney Bean. — A
variety of moderate height,
seldom exceeding 5 ft., and
sometimes not much over
4 ft. Stem very slender,
light green; leaves medium
sized, long, pointed, not
much crimped, and of a
clear green colour; flowers
white ; pods green, narrow,
very numerous, especially
at the lower parts of the
stems, where they often
grow in clusters of fours or fives, while hardly any are produced
near the tops of the stems ; seeds five or six in each pod, nearly
round, with a very smooth, thin, almost transparent skin, and not
much over £ in. in diameter. This variety presents an appearance
so peculiar and so different from that of most other kinds, that it
might be readily supposed to be derived from a distinct botanical
species, were it not that its flowers exactly resemble those of other
Kidney Beans. It branches and spreads more than the majority
of tall-growing varieties, forming a clump nearly 2 ft. wide, with
weak, slender stems, which do not exhibit much of the climbing
character. The seeds are so small and so peculiar in shape that
it is difficult at first sight to imagine that they belong to a plant
of the same species as the Soissons or Liancourt Beans. However,

-

Extra Early Pole Bean.

TALL TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 49

as the pods are produced in very great numbers, the plant is
productive enough. The dried seeds are of an exceedingly good
and delicate quality, with a very thin skin, which seems to dissolve
in cooking, on which account they are highly esteemed. The only
defect which can be ascribed to the plant is that the pods are very
liable to rot in wet seasons, when they trail to the ground before
they are quite ripe.

There are many other tall-growing varieties of Kidney Beans
in cultivation, of which we shall only mention the following, as
being very distinct and of special interest in various respects : —

Harlequin Kidney Bean. — A tall-growing, rather late-ripening
kind, with long, crimped leaves. Pods numerous, short, and curved ;
seeds very flat, oblong, scarcely kidney-shaped, coffee-coloured,
and irregularly streaked and furrowed with black lines. It is a
hardy and productive variety, and may be often seen in the Central
Market at Paris.

Dwarf White Long-pod Kidney Bean.— A plant 4 to 5 ft.
high ; flowers large, white ; pods exceedingly numerous, very
straight and long, and nearly cylindrical, of a fine green colour ;
seed oblong, nearly as thick as broad. This variety, which requires
only very short stakes, can be highly recommended for the pro-
duction of green Haricots.

Tall Early Englefontaine Bean. — A .rather tall variety,
vigorous, and very early, with some resemblance to the Lian-
court Kidney Bean, but ripening much earlier. It is the earliest
of the tall Beans.

Soissons Red Kidney Bean.— A tall, rather slender-stemmed
variety, not overburdened with leaves. Pods long, slightly curved,
and rather narrow ; seeds nearly the same shape as those of the
White Dutch or Case-knife Bean, and of a brilliant coral colour just
before ripening, after which they assume a wine-lees red tint. This
handsome kind is tolerably early, but only moderately productive.

Partridge-Eye Kidney Bean.— A plant of medium height,
with lank, slender stems, and lilac flowers. Pods short and flat,
each containing four or five seeds, which are flat, shortly oval, or
almost square, and of a white colour finely streaked with greenish
gray. This variety has been a long time in existence, but, being a
poor bearer, it is very little grown.

Old Homestead, Kentucky Wonder, Seek-no-Further
Bean. — One of the varieties most commonly cultivated in the
United States. A very vigorous plant, growing as high as 6J ft.;
«arly, and very productive. Pods very abundant, long, curved.
Seeds slightly -flattened, oval, and dark brown.

Southern Prolific Bean. — Much less tall than the last named,
with shorter, almost straight pods, and smaller seeds. Also a
little later.

50 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Red Speckled Cut Short or Corn Hill Bean. — A late variety,
with short cylinder-shaped straight pods, the seed almost square,
and streaked with red-brown. In the United States it is often
sown along with maize, which serves as a support for it.

Saint-Seurin Kidney Bean. — A very vigorous and rapid kind,
with large, broad, deep-green leaves, and lilac flowers. Pods very
numerous, almost straight, marked when very young with violet
streaks ; seeds flat, kidney-shaped, salmon marbled and spotted
with black. It is hardy, very productive, and early, and is well
adapted for rather warm climates.

II. — DWARF VARIETIES OF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

Dwarf White Flageolet, or White Canterbury Kidney
Bean. — The best known and most esteemed of the Tough-podded
Kidney Beans. The name Flageolet Bean is given to varieties
more or less similar to this, and the seeds themselves are known as
Flageolet Beans for culinary purposes. It is a low-growing thick-set
variety, with a stout stem, not more than I ft. or 14 in. high ; leaves
smooth or slightly pitted, of medium size, and deep-green ; flowers
white, with a faint tinge of nankeen yellow ; pods numerous, rather
flat and somewhat curved, and frequently irregular in breadth
through the abortion,of some of the seeds. These, usually four or
five in a pod, are white, flat, and kidney-shaped, nearly f in. long,
over £ in. broad, and less than £ in. thick. In cases where only
one variety of Kidney Bean can be cultivated, a better selection
cannot be made than this one, for the young pods may be gathered

and used as well as the
seeds. The seeds are
sometimes dried but are
best when fresh.

Dwarf White Long-
pod Kidney Bean. —
More vigorous, with larger
leaves and greater length
of pods than the preced-
ing. The seed is white
when ripe, and somewhat
larger than that of the
common Flageolet ; the
young pods are long and
thin and very tender.

Extra -Early Dwarf
Etampes Kidney Bean.
— This new variety, which was raised by M. Bonnemain, is a
decided improvement on the White Flageolet, and is distinguished

Extra Early Dwarf Etampes Kidney Bean
(£ natural size).

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 51

Nettle-leaved Canterbury Kidney Bean
(£ natural size).

from it in a marked degree by its leaves, which are large, somewhat

crimped, and deep green. The flowers, pods, and seeds do not

perceptibly differ from those of the White Flageolet, but the plant

is earlier by five or six days,

and is a truly valuable variety,

most probably destined to

gradually supersede the other

in cultivation. The seeds are

white, even when the pods are

green.

Nettle-leaved Canterbury
Kidney Bean. — This variety
is very distinct from the Com-
mon White Flageolet, and is a
dwarf, hardy, early, and pro-
ductive kind, easily recognised
by its leaves, which are small,
of a dark, almost black, green,
and finely crimped on their entire surface. The small size of this
plant renders it very suitable for frame culture, and its hardiness
makes it equally good for field cultivation, as it is usually grown
about Paris. It ripens nearly at the same time as the White
Flageolet, and its chief merit consists in resisting disease and
unfavourable weather, and in its being easily distinguished by its
foliage from all other varieties.

Matchless Dwarf Bean. — In clumps about i ft. in height ;
stem green, branching ; leaves medium-sized, light green, slightly

veined and crimped ; flowers
white. Pods 4 to 6 in. long,
flat, produced in pairs, each
containing six seeds, which
resemble those of the Long
White Canterbury Bean, but
smaller and marked with
two dots near the hilum ;
they are a little over \ in.
long, by about \ in. broad,
and J in. thick. An early
and prolific variety, to be
recommended for the pro-
duction of young green
pods for the table.

Inexhaustible Bean. —
Quite distinct from all the other dwarf Flageolet Beans, this variety
is easily recognised at first sight by the growth of its flowers, which
rise in stout bunches above the foliage. The pods are long, green,

Inexhaustible Dwarf Bean.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

narrow, and tender, and are produced in constant succession,
becoming the more abundant the more they are picked. The seed
is like that of the White Flageolet.

Bonnemain Dwarf Kidney Bean. — This variety was raised
some years ago from seed by M. Bonnemain, secretary to the Etampes

Horticultural Society, and
we class it among the
Flageolets because it re-
sembles them in size, earli-
ness, and in having white
seeds ; but that it is totally
distinct from all the other
varieties can be seen at a
glance. It forms very low-
growing, thick-set clumps,
with leaves of a pale gray-
green and white flowers ;
pods straight, almost cylin-
drical, shorter and more
slender than those of the
Kidney Bean ; seeds white,
egg - shaped, thicker, and
with less of the kidney
outline than those of the
White Flageolet. They are
green until they ripen. The
great merit of this variety
consists in its unequalled
earliness, the seeds being
rjpe for shelling five or six days sooner than those of the Early
Etampes Flageolet, which was at one time considered the earliest
of all. We have obtained very satisfactory results from growing
the Bonnemain Kidney Bean in the open air, while its small size
and great earliness make it most suitable for frame culture. It is
certain to become one of the most esteemed varieties for producing
an early crop.

Long Green-seeded Flageolet Bean. — The first green seeds
of the Flageolet Beans may have originated by the mere accident
of some one pulling a few pods before their complete maturity and
allowing them to dry in the shade. However, it is indisputable
that by careful observation and selection the Paris growers have
succeeded in obtaining certain strains in which the green colora-
tion of the seed not only exists, but has moreover a tendency
to last, given appropriate treatment. We are going to give a
description of the more interesting of these strains, all of which
are derived more or less directly from the original green-seeded

Bonnemain Dwarf Kidney Bean (plant,
pods, £ ; and seed, full natural size).

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 53

Flageolet Bean, the pods of which are of a darker colour outside,

and the seed being permeated throughout with a larger amount of

green colouring matter, which latter

is of a more durable nature than

is found in any other of the Tough-
podded Kidney Beans.

Chevrier Dwarf Flageolet

Bean. — A distinct variety, differing

from the Green-seeded Flageolet

almost as much as that differs

from the White Flageolet, so intense

is the green colour of the seed.

Sent out only a few years ago, it

has quickly become very popular

among the growers in the vicinity

of Paris.

Wonder ol France Dwarf

Bean. — The Chevrier Bean, like

the White Flageolet Bean, has the

serious defect of being very much

exposed to the attacks of rust.

This evil is considerably lessened

in some of the later strains, the

first of which in date, the Marvel

of Paris, is a fine variety with

numerous, long, straight, beautiful

deep green pods and well-coloured

seeds. It differs but little from

that of the Chevrier Bean in these

characteristics.

King of the Green Bean. — Of remarkable vigour in growth, and

somewhat taller than Wonder of France, though not quite as early.

It is a hardy plant, suited for field culture, and wonderfully produc-
tive. It is one of the best for
the production of dry green
Flageolets ; for not only is the
skin of the seed very thin, but
the bushes shed the whole of
their foliage as soon as the
pods are full and ripe, so that
the plants, if. pulled up then,
may be easily stacked at once.
Dwarf Flageolet Triumph
of the Frames. — Very dwarf

Wonder of France Flageolet Bean.

Dwarf Triumph of the Frames Bean.

and compact, suited for cultivation under glass, not exceeding 8 in.
in height. Leaves of average size, pretty smooth ; pods very

54 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

numerous, round, well filled, containing six to eight seeds each. The
seeds are of the Flageolet shape, about £ in. long by about half as
broad, and about £ in. thick. Owing to its small size and great
earliness this variety can be recommended for growing in frames
for an early crop. The seeds are bright green, and they keep their
colour if the pods are pulled at the right moment and dried in the
same way as the Chevrier Beans.

Green-seeded Bagnolet Bean. — A very branching dwarf
variety, remarkable for its vigorous growth and productiveness.
Foliage dark green, very abundant. The tufts are compact, erect,
with numerous straight pods of vivid green. The seed is small and
very green. Though not as early as Wonder of France, it is much
more productive. It is especially suited for producing green pods
or Haricots verts, of which it produces an enormous quantity. If
allowed to ripen the green colour of the seed gives it an increased
value in comparison with white and coloured Beans.

Long Yellow, or Pale Dun, Flageolet Bean.— A vigorous
very dwarf variety, about 1 8 in. high, with large broad gray-green
leaves, somewhat plaited but not much crimped. Flowers white ;
pods large, long, straight, and broad, edible as Haricots verts, rather
pale in colour ; seeds oblong, very slightly kidney-shaped, about
f in. long, a little over J in. broad, and about the same in thickness,
uniform chamois colour, excepting the hilum, which is white,
surrounded by a circle of a rather dark-brown. The seeds are
commonly eaten fresh, before they are fully grown, and they ripen
rather earlier than those of the white-seeded kind. The plant is
also much more productive.

Dwarf Long Scarlet Flageolet Kidney Bean. — (American
Red, or Scarlet, Flageolet}. — A vigorous kind, about the same
height as the preceding one, but a much darker green, with long,
narrow, pointed leaves and rosy-white flowers. Pods long and
straight, yielding very good green Haricots ; seeds f in. or more
long, over J in. broad, and about £ in. thick, straight, or slightly
kidney-shaped, nearly cylindrical, and a wine-lees red colour. This
variety is one of the hardiest and most productive. It is chiefly
grown for its seeds, which are of fine quality when dried. It also
produces long straight pods, which are excellent eaten as such.

The Crimson Wonder and the Canadian Wonder Bean are sub-
varieties of this kind, differing from it but slightly by the shape
of the seed.

Fame of Vitry Flageolet Bean. — Earlier and smaller
in size than the preceding kind, from which it has sprung ;
stem light green, between 15 and 16 in. in length; leaves
broad, and pointed ; flowers pale lilac. Pods about 6 in. long,
generally solitary, and containing usually six seeds, resembling
those of the Long Scarlet Flageolet Bean, but smaller. An early

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 55

and prolific variety, to be recommended for the fine green pods
{Haricots verts} it produces, and which are much appreciated on
the market.

Bouscat Early Long-pod Forcing Bean. — In general appear-
ance this variety resembles
the Black Negro Bean, but
is more vigorous, more
productive, and also has
longer pods, and the colour
of the seed is also different.
Plant dwarf, between 1 1
and 12 in. high ; stems
vivid green, leaves large,
pointed, of a lustrous dark
green colour ; flowers
white. Pods light green,
long, cylindrical, produced

in pairs Or in clusters of Bouscat Early Long-pod Forcing Bean.

three ; seed light brown,

less than j in. long, about J in. broad, and about as thick. This
variety is well suited for forcing under glass, but it succeeds also
in the open ground in sheltered places where Beans are sown for
an early crop.

Scarlet Flageolet Wax Bean. — A vigorous yet persistently
dwarf variety, 1 6 to 18 in. high. Leaves very large, uncrimped,
and light or yellow green ; flowers lilac ; pods long, broad, straight

or slightly curved, quite
yellow (like those of the
Algerian Kidney Beans),
but rather flattened and
pointed (like those of the
Tough - podded Kidney
Beans) ; seeds almost
exactly like those of the
Canadian Wonder in
shape and colour. This
is a very fine and distinct
kind, but, unfortunately,
its pods are not free from
membrane, at least when
ripening ; but gathered

Scarlet Flageolet Wax Bean. , "> ~f ' j & .

much grown, they are very tender and fleshy.

Black-blue Seeded Dwarf Bean. — A dwarf, rather late variety ;
plant erect and vigorous, of good habit, not exceeding 20 in. in
height. Stem stout, light green ; leaves dark green, smooth,

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Black-blue Seeded Dwarf Bean.

slightly veined ; flowers lilac, in bunches raised above the foliage.

Pods very long, flat, light green, about 5 to 7 in. long, a little over

J in. broad, and less than J in. thick, generally produced in pairs,

and containing from six
to eight long bluish black
seeds. A disease-resisting,
productive variety, well
suited for growing for the
market. Owing to the
colour of the seed, it is
used exclusively as a
Haricot Bean.

Negro Long-pod, or
Black Canterbury, Kid-
ney Bean. — This is a
very distinct variety, and
one of the best edible-
podded varieties. Leaves
large, not much crimped,
deep green, usually hori-
zontal and not pendent ;
flowers lilac ; pods slender,

very straight, and nearly cylindrical. The plant is remarkable for

the length of the young pods. The seeds are of moderate size, being

between J and } in. long, and nearly £ in. broad and thick ; they

are entirely black, on which account they are not used in cookery,

and the plant is only grown for the sake of the green pods.

Dwarf Extra Early Black Prince Bean.— A truly dwarf

and early variety, compat in growth, with numerous short stems,

broad leaves, and a great

number of flowers ; dis-
tinguished by the intense

green colour of the whole

plant, and especially of

the pods, which keep

their dark green colour

up to complete maturity.

The pods are produced

in abundance, of medium

size ; the seed is black,

very small, flat, thin, and

oblong, it is about \ in.

long, i in. broad, and a Black Prince Bean.

little less in thickness. The Black Prince Bean is unexcelled for
producing green pods for the table. Its dark green colour proclaims
its descent from one of the forms derived from the Green Flageolet

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 57

or the Chevrier Bean. The seed is of less importance in varieties
specially grown for their pods, but this origin has had a most
favourable influence in imparting to the pods that healthy and
agreeable dark green appearance so much valued in the market.
Dwarf Belgian Black Negro Kidney Bean. — A very dwarf
early kind, chiefly used for forcing in frames. When grown true
to name, it seldom exceeds 10 in. or
I ft. in height, and forms a small, close,
compact tuft or clump. The leaves
are medium size, rather pointed, not
much crimped, and a pale wan green.
Pods straight, very green while
young, afterwards slightly streaked
with violet ; seeds rather small,
slightly kidney-shaped, not very flat,

and Seldom over about i in. lone, of Dwarf Belgian Kidney Bean

CL t-i i i **!_ !-•*. (i natural size).

a nne black colour, with a white

hilum. Like the preceding variety, owing to the colour of its

seeds it is only grown for the green pods.

Dwarf Black Hermitage Bean. — A sub-variety of the pre-
ceding, having all its characteristics, but slightly taller ; the pod
is also longer, about 5 in. in length, and the seeds are somewhat
larger, but they are the same shape and colour. A variety much
appreciated by the growers of Provence.

Chocolate Dwarf Kidney Bean. — Another verydwarf and early
kind, with small long leaves, not much crimped, and light green.
Flowers lilac ; pods rather short, and curved, often to a semicircle ;
seeds flat, somewhat kidney-shaped, J in. or more long, varying
from a chamois to deep slaty gray, and often both colours together.
This variety is chiefly remarkable for its earliness, and is well
adapted for growing under a frame for an early crop of ripe seeds.

The Comte de Vougy Kidney Bean, Mohawk, and the Dwarf
Free-bearer, which are now seldom grown, are closely allied to the
Chocolate Kidney Bean. They are, however, not so early, and on
that account not so valuable.

Dwarf Yellow Hundredfold Kidney Bean.— A dwarf and
very hardy variety, of compact growth, with medium-sized slightly
puckered leaves, deep green tinged with gray. Flowers white,
changing to yellow ; pods rather short, numerous, each containing
four or five straight, almost cylindrical seeds, which are sometimes
square at the ends, and dark yellow verging on brown. This is
a very productive kind, and is mostly cultivated in the east of
France, where it is often grown in the vineyards.

Early Dwarf Chalandray Kidney Bean. — An exceedingly
dwarf and early variety, forming a compact clump seldom over
10 in. high. Leaves small, long, and bright green ; flowers rose or

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

pale lilac ; pods slender, long, and slightly curved ; seeds small,
almost cylindrical, with very little of the kidney shape, about i in.
long, and a light^ mahogany-brown in colour. This kind is almost
as early as the Etampes Flageolet, and is especially well adapted
for forcing. Both green pods and fresh seeds may be obtained
from it.

Dwarf Yellow Extra Early Kidney Bean. — A dwarf plant,
10 or 12 in. high ; stem light green ; leaves not very numerous,
, gray - green, becoming soon

yellow. Pods 5 in. long, flat,
light green, produced in
bunches of four or six at
the end of the stems. Seed
yellow, about •£ in. long and
£ in. broad and thick, usually
five per pod. This variety is
the earliest of all the Beans
with coloured seed, and is
well suited for growing under
frames. Its pods are of excel-
lent quality as Haricots verts.
Dwarf Barbes Bean. —
This variety comes very near
the Yellow Hundredfold Bean,
but is taller and more vigorous.
The seed is also larger, longer,
and a clearer yellow, nearly that of the Yellow Canadian Bean.
It is straight in shape, cylindrical, and often squared at both ends.
The pods, like those of the Yellow Hundredfold Bean, are well
filled, very fleshy, and may be eaten almost up to the time of
their full development. In the south of France and Algeria it
is much grown for producing green Haricots.

Royal Dwarf White Kidney Bean. — Under the name of
" Swiss Kidney Beans " are grouped a certain number of varieties
which are almost identical in habit of growth, and present hardly
any difference except in the colour of the seed. In Italy these
varieties are named Fagiuoli cannellini, and at Bordeaux they are
known under the general name of Haricot Capucine. Almost all
have the bad habit of sending out, above the leaves and flowers, a
slender barren stem, of greater or less length, which never twines.
This variety sometimes has this drawback, but possesses some very
good qualities also, especially great productiveness and hardiness ;
very suitable for field culture. It has large and very rough, dark
green coloured, and sometimes finely crimped leaves ; flowers large
and white ; pods long and numerous, each containing five or six
seeds, which are white, straight, almost cylindrical, often flattened

Dwarf Yellow Extra Early Kidney Bean.

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 59

at one end (whence its French name of Haricot Lingo f}. They
are usually about f in. long, and something over £ in. in breadth
and thickness. They can be eaten dried, but the skin is rather
thick.

Early Dwarf White Bean. — A very pretty sub-variety of
the preceding one, but free from the long sterile stems referred
to above. It is also a few days earlier. The plant is of a
dwarfer habit, more even in growth, and also more regular in
earliness. The pods and the seeds do not show any marked
difference.

Black Speckled Kidney Bean (Haricot de Bagnolef). — A
kind much grown about Paris for its green pods. As a general
rule, it does not exhibit
the objectionable habit of
growth alluded to in the
description of the Royal
Dwarf White Kidney Bean,
and, in this respect, it is
better than most of the
Swiss Kidney Beans. It
grows 14 to 1 6 in. high and
has large deep green leaves,
not much crimped, and lilac
flowers ; pods straight, long,
very green, and, when young,
almost cylindrical ; seeds
straight, long, rounded at
both ends, nearly as thick
as broad, black -violet varie-
gated with nankeen yellow

Black Speckled Kidney Bean.

streaks on about one-third of their surface, these markings being
sometimes reduced to a few light-coloured spots on a nearly black
ground. There is also a white-seeded variety, which is identical in
all other respects.

Nettle-leaved Bagnolet Bean. — A sub-variety of the pre-
ceding kind, about 16 in. in height. Stem light green, very branch-
ing. It differs from the Black Speckled Bean by being a little
earlier, and by the leaves, which are smaller, much crimped, veined,
and of a lighter green ; flowers white instead of lilac ; the pods are
longer, about 4^ in., and flat. The seed resembles exactly that
of the Bagnolet Bean ; each pod contains six.

Dwarf Parisian Bean. — A dwarf plant of vigorous early
growth and rapid development, with dark green leaves and lilac
flowers ; pods straight, very long, marked with black streaks,
which disappear in the cooking. The seed is flat, kidney-shaped,
spotted dark purple on chamois. It is a good variety for the

6o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Dwarf Parisian Bean.

kitchen-garden and also for field culture, where it yields abun-
dantly about ten days earlier than the Black Speckled Bagnolet

Bean and like sorts — a
great advantage from the
grower's point of view.

Glory of Lyons Bean.
— Though resembling
somewhat the Bagnolet
Bean, it differs from that
in some respects. The
leaves are larger, and
gray-green ; the pods are
broader and flatter ; the
seed is slightly smaller,
thin, almost straight, and
speckled yellow on brown.
The chief difference, how-
ever, is in being eight to
ten days earlier than the Bagnolet Bean, for which reason, though
less productive, it is preferred by market gardeners.

Dwarf Marvel of Paris Bean. — A field variety, rather early,
very vigorous, hardy, productive, above all remarkable for the
length and slenderness of its pods, which are intensely green
and almost cylindrical. The seed is thick, dark purple streaked
with yellow; it is generally about ij in. long, and half that
breadth, and less than £ in. thick. This variety is most probably
derived from the old Bagnolet Bean. The seed has about
the same appearance ; it
is, however, somewhat
smaller and shorter, re-
sembling in size that of
the Solitary Bean.

Sion House Dwarf
Kidney Bean. — This is
a variety for field culture
and is hardy, early,
and productive. Leaves
numerous, of medium size,
slightly puckered, and a
rather deep green ; flowers
rose - coloured or lilac ;
pods long and straight.
The shape of the seed
resembles that of the

Glory of Lyons Bean.

Swiss Kidney Beans, but the colour, like that of the Cranberry
Bean, is flesh colour finely dotted with light red or lilac. Although

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 61

true enough to its dwarf character, this kind forms less compact
clumps than the Swiss Kidney Beans, and the stems are usually
long and semi-trailing. It is not very particular about quality of
soil, and requires very little attention, on which account it is one
of the kinds which are most frequently sown in vineyards or
amongst other crops.

Dwarf Emperor of Russia Bean.— A dwarf, half-early variety,
rather compact in growth, very productive, with large slightly
crimped leaves ; pods numer-
ous, slender and fleshy; seeds
long and narrow, and light
chocolate-brown with deeper-
coloured stripes ; less than
£ in. long, about £ in. broad,
and about J in. thick. An
excellent variety for the pro-
duction of green pods for
the table, especially in warm
climates. The seed may be
gathered when fully ripe
without being liable to be-
come stained, -as is the case
with most other varieties.

Dwarf Red Speckled
Kidney Bean (Haricot suisse
rouge], — A vigorous, branch-
ing variety, which does not
usually produce the sterile
stem before mentioned.
Leaves stiff, not very large
or numerous, smooth, and
slightly gray - green ; flowers
lilac or rosy ; seeds long,

nearly Straight, marbled with Dwarf Emperor of Russia Bean.

spots of a wine -lees red,

which sometimes form longitudinal streaks on a pale red ground.
This is a very productive kind, and the dried seeds are much
esteemed. A variety cultivated in America, under the name of
Improved Goddard or Boston Favourite, presents many points of
similarity to this.

Besides the varieties of Swiss Kidney Beans which we have
just described, the following also are in cultivation : —

Dwarf Blood Speckled Kidney Bean. — This variety bears a
striking resemblance to the preceding one, both in habit and
foliage. The flowers are a pale rose ; seeds similar in shape to
those of the Black Speckled Kidney Bean, but a deep red, dotted

62 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

with white or salmon colour. For some years past this variety has
often been called " The Indian Kidney Bean."

Dwarf Light Dun-coloured Kidney Bean. — A vigorous
variety, forming strong clumps, not producing the barren stem
of the Swiss Kidney Beans, but sometimes bearing clusters of
pods above the foliage. The leaves are large, slightly crimped,
and gray-green ; pods long, straight, nearly cylindrical, each con-
taining five or six seeds of a light chamois colour, darkening with
age, and brown around the hilum.

Other varieties of Swiss Kidney Bean are the Large Gray
Swiss, the seed of which is yellow-white, streaked with black ; the
Bourvalais Swiss, with white seed marbled with light violet ; the
Red ingot, the seed of which is paler than that of the Long
Spotted French Bean and not marbled. Among the Swiss Kidney
Beans may also be included the variety named the Giant Dwarf,
which is remarkable for the width of its leaves and the length of
its pods ; but in cultivation it is now superseded by the improved
variety of the Royal Dwarf White Kidney Bean.

Russian Dwarf Kidney Bean. — A very good dwarf variety,
equal to any other for producing green pods. It is a very vigorous
plant, with exceedingly broad leaves, finely crimped, dark and
rather dull green in colour. Flowers lilac ; pods very straight,
and remarkably long and handsome. The seed, which in shape
and colour has some resemblance to that of the Dwarf Light Dun-
coloured Kidney Bean, is easily distinguished from all other kinds
by the dull appearance of the skin. There is a sub-variety of this
plant which has small black seeds, and produces pods that are
perhaps longer and more cylindrical than those of the ordinary
kind. There are often six, or even seven, seeds in a pod, and as
each seed is nearly f in. long, and lies in" the pod at some distance
from the seed which is next to it, the length of the pods is easily
accounted for.

Spread-Eagle, or Dove, Kidney Bean. — Another dwarf tough-
podded variety, which appears to belong to the section of the Swiss
Kidney Beans, and grows to the height of 16 in. or more. Leaves
light green, broad, long, and finely crimped ; flowers white, and
rather large ; pods straight and long ; seed very full, rather kidney-
shaped, and quite white, except near the hilum, where it is marked
with a black or brown blotch, the outline of which has some like-
ness to a bird with extended wings. Hence its most common
names of " Spread-Eagle " and " Dove " Kidney Beans.

The Shah Bean. — A very vigorous plant, truly dwarf,
because it does not send up any twining shoots. It grows into
large erect bushes, not exceeding 15^ to 19^ in. in height; the
leaves are very large and broad, dark green, smooth, not crimped ;
the lilac-coloured flowers are succeeded by fine green, long, straight

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 63

pods, much superior to those of the Black Flageolet Kidney Bean, or
even of the Russian Kidney Bean. The pods are not only very long,
but also very thin and perfectly round. The seed is black, narrow,
straight, or slightly curved into kidney shape, somewhat flattened,
about ^ in. long, about
J in. broad, and less in
thickness ; hilum white.
Judged by its vegeta-
tion this variety belongs
clearly to the series of
the Swiss Kidney Beans,
but it may be said to
excel them all by the
length and beauty of its
pods. Of all the sorts
grown it is the best for
producing choice Haricot
Beans. It is too tall to
be grown under glass,
and is much better suited
for outdoor culture.

Dwarf Red Orleans
Kidney Bean. — A vari-
ety which is usually true
to its dwarf character,
but occasionally runs at
the top. Stems thick

and short, forming a The Shah Dwarf Bean.

rather broad, compact

clump ; leaves stiff, medium-sized, crimped, a glistening green ;
flowers violet ; pods rather numerous, short and slightly curved,
each containing four or five rather small egg-shaped seeds, which
are less than J in. long, of a deep, brown-red colour, with a black
circle around the hilum. This variety is cultivated in the vine-
yards of Orleanais, just as the Yellow Hundredfold and the
Turkish Kidney Bean are in the vineyards of Burgundy. It is
sometimes erroneously confused with the Chartres Red Kidney
Bean, which is a tall-growing kind, with seeds of a flatter shape
and more squared at the ends.

Dwarf Soissons Kidney Bean. — A variety which is true to
its dwarf character, and also early, but only a moderate bearer.
Plant low-growing and thick-set. Leaves rather broad, smooth,
and dark glistening green. It does not produce the sterile stem
of the Swiss Kidney Beans, but clusters of pods are sometimes
borne above the foliage. Pods usually curved and of irregular
width, owing to the unequal size of the seeds, which are much

64

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

smaller than those of the Large White Runner, and are more like
those of the Liancourt Kidney Bean, being white, rather flat,

and moderately kidney-
shaped.

Dwarf Green-
seeded Soissons Bean.
— Resembles the pre-
ceding but is a little
earlier, and its leaves
are a darker green.
Pods curved, about J in.
long, a little less in
breadth, usually pro-
duced in pairs, and con-
taining six large green
seeds, a little over J in.
in length, rather more

Dwarf Green Soissons Bean. than J in. broad, and

J in. thick. The method

practised for drying the seed so that it may keep its green colour
is the same as for the other green-seeded kinds.

Early Dwarf Scimitar Kidney Bean. — This very distinct
and valuable variety differs completely from the old Dwarf Case-
knife, which is now no longer cultivated. It is a low-growing
and very thick-set plant, with broad leaves, slightly crimped, and
dark lustrous green. Flowers white ; pods long, broad, straight,
and well filled. The plant comes into flower almost about the
same time as the White
Flageolet, and its earliness,
and also the fineness of its
seeds, render it a valuable
kind for forcing under a
frame. The seeds are
broad and well filled, nearly
| in. long, over % in. broad,
and J in. thick, pure white,
and, like the skin, some-
times slightly wrinkled.

Common White Flat
Bean. — An ancient vari-
ety, still used in certain
countries for field culture.

Early Dwarf Scimitar Kidney Bean
(f natural size).

May be classed also with

the Runner Beans, because

the branches, though they do not climb well, run to a considerable

length, and trail on the ground. The foliage is abundant, rather

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 65

folded, leaves inclined to be small, and a dark green ; flowers white ;
pods short, with four or five medium-sized seeds, similar in shape
almost to those of the Liancourt Bean, glossy and a pure white.

Common Round White Bean. — Like the last-named, very
irregular in habit, and almost entitled to be called a Runner Bean.
A slender light-green stem, about 3 ft. 3 in. high ; leaves a decided
green and smooth ; flowers white ; pods light green, not long, and
containing generally six white rounded seeds. In spite of its faulty
habit, this variety is commonly used in field culture for the sake of
its seed. A variety cultivated in Canada, under the name of Pea
Bean, and in the United States, under the name of Navy White
or Boston Small Bean, differs very little from the Common Round
White Bean.

Dwarf White Rice Kidney Bean.— A dwarf but remarkably
branching kind, forming clumps over 2\ ft. wide. Leaves very
numerous, rather pointed, medium-sized or small, and light green ;
pods short, very numerous, containing five or six seeds ; seeds
white, egg-shaped, nearly f in. long, -J in. broad, and about the
same thickness, with an exceedingly thin skin ; of remarkably
good quality, and consequently much used in the dried state.
Although its seeds are small, it is very productive, but is rather
late, in consequence of which the seeds are sometimes spotted
and blemished if the autumn is cold and damp. There is a very
small-seeded variety of this plant, which produces vast numbers of
pods, and is known as the Dwarf Hungarian Bean, or the Hungarian
Rice Kidney Bean. (Syn. Haricot Comtesse de Chambord^]

Dwarf White Bagnolet. — A handsome, vigorous, hardy kind,
which in habit of growth is rather like the Black Speckled Kidney
Bean, but differs from it entirely in the seed, which is white, rather
flat, and kidney-shaped, and is good for use either dried or in the
green state.

Imperatrice Dwarf Bean. — In appearance and foliage this kind
resembles the Swiss Kidney Beans, but it has broader and slightly
curved pods. Seed large, full, kidney-shaped, and remarkable for
a large deep red blotch encircling the hilum, and extending over
about one-third of the surface of the seed, the remainder being
pure white thickly dotted with small red specks, which appear in
bold relief on the white ground.

Mexican Dwarf Kidney Bean. — One of the earliest of all
the Tough-podded Kidney Beans, of low and scantily branching
growth, with medium-sized leaves, deep green tinged with gray.
Flowers very pale lilac ; pods short and rather broad, each con-
taining four or five egg-shaped, slightly flattened seeds, salmon-
rose, with a brown circle round the Jiilum.

Neapolitan Kidney Bean. — Under this name are grouped
several varieties with white, egg-shaped seeds, like those which are

66 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

imported in large quantities from the south of Italy and from Sicily ;
but it is more a commercial name than that of any special variety.

Round Yellow, or Six- Weeks, Dwarf Kidney Bean. — A
low-growing, thick-set kind, with slightly grayish and elongated
leaves. Flowers pale lilac or rose ; pods rather broad and short,
each containing four or five egg-shaped seeds, about \ in. long, and
of a uniform deep yellow colour, except about the hilwn, where
they are of a darker shade, closely approaching brown. A remark-
ably early and very productive variety.

Solitary Prolific Kidney Bean, or Bush Haricot.— A very
branching plant, which forms a strong clump, does not produce a
barren stem like the Swiss Kidney Beans, and attains a height of
1 6 to 20 in. Leaves rather small, very numerous, long, pointed,
and deep green ; flowers pale lilac. The seed somewhat resembles
that of the Black Speckled Kidney Bean, but is seldom more
than \ in. long, and is of a pronounced violet colour. The chief
merit of this variety is that it forms a strong clump and branches
very much, in consequence of which some cultivators sow each seed
separately, instead of putting several into the same hole or pocket.

Dwarf Green Vaudreuil Bean. — Resembles the Chevrier Bean
by its seeds being of a bright green colour, which colour they keep
when dry, if the plants are pulled before complete maturity. It is
hardier than the Flageolet Beans, and differs from them in the
pods being rounded and straight, and also in the seed being short,
thick, and almost square.

Plein de la Fleche. — A good variety, of vigorous, thick-set
growth, and resembling both the Black Speckled (H. Bagnolet) and
the Solitary Bush Kidney Bean ; the former in its habit of growth,
and the latter in its seed.

The following varieties are of English or American origin : —

Early Light Dun and Early Dark Dun.— These two kinds
bear some resemblance to the Yellow Flageolet, but their seed is
uniform in colour, without any circle around the hilum. The seeds
of the two kinds are distinguished by those of the first being a
lighter brown than those of the second.

Early Rachel. — A dwarf and productive kind, with dark-
brown, elongated seeds, slightly spotted with pale brown or yellow.
It has some resemblance to the Chocolate Kidney Bean.

MacMillan's American Prolific.— Somewhat resembles the Sion
House Kidney Bean in its general appearance and in the colour of
the seed, but is more compact in growth, forming denser clumps.

The Monster. — A dwarf and exceedingly vigorous-growing
variety, with enormous leaves, resembling in their amplitude those
of the most highly developed Swiss Kidney Beans. Pods of medium
size, straight ; seeds black, longer, and more curved than those of
the Belgian Negro Bean. A tolerably productive, half-early kind.

DWARF TOUGH-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 67

New Mammoth Negro. — The pods and seeds of this kind are
rather like those of the Negro Long-pod, but in its mode of growth
and the colour of its leaves it bears a greater resemblance to the
Belgian Negro. It is not so good a kind for green Haricots as the
Negro Long-pod.

Newington Wonder. — This dwarf variety can hardly be
recommended for any other purpose than frame culture for the
production of seeds, as its pods are too short for green Haricots.
The seed is of a light yellow colour and remarkably small.

Early Mohawk Bean.— Very hardy ; pods long, flat, straight.
One of the Beans most commonly cultivated in the United States,
and as often grown under glass as in the open air. The seed is
pale green, marbled with dark violet or brown.

Best of All Bean. — A vigorous, ramified, fairly productive half-
early kind ; the pods long, fleshy, intense green, becoming lighter
at maturity, and marked with bright red shades ; seed pale yellow
stippled with red.

Currie's Rust-proof Wax Bean. — Resembles the Dwarf
Flageolet Wax Bean, except that it has black seeds.

Davis Kidney Wax. — A species of Dwarf Flageolet Wax
Bean, hardy and productive, with long yellow straight pods, not
free from parchment, and requiring to be pulled when young. Seed
long white kidney-shaped.

Emperor William. — Resembles in foliage and growth the
Dwarf Scimitar White Bean, with rather flatter pods. The seed
is white, flat, and rather kidney-shaped.

Ne Plus Ultra Bean. — Dwarf; leaves light green, flowers
white tinged with pink. Seeds resemble those of the Yellow
Hundred to One, but the pods are longer.

New Bountiful Kidney Bean. — Seed like that of the Long
Yellow Flageolet, but the growth of the plant is freer, and the
foliage lighter, and the pods more whitened.

Stringless Green-pod Bean. — Half-early, vigorous, and pro-
ductive, much esteemed in the United States. Pods long, fleshy,
slightly curving, pale green. Seed a deep madder-colour.

Button's Prolific Negro Dwarf Bean. — A good variety of the
Negro Black or Dwarf Belgian, but with longer pods.

Osborn's Early Forcing. — A good dwarf kind, of dense
branching growth, producing large numbers of medium-sized pods,
each containing four or five short bulging seeds, deep-brown, with
some spots of light yellow.

Refugee, or Thousand to One. — A rather compact-growing
variety, with remarkably long, straight, smooth, dark-coloured
leaves, and violet flowers. Pods straight and rounded ; seed
hardly kidney-shaped, almost cylindrical, light yellow, variegated
with wine-lees-red markings.

68

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Extra Early Refugee is bushier and earlier than the type,
and the foliage is paler green.

Sir Joseph Paxton. — A small-sized, very early, dwarf kind,
with rather short pods. The seed is almost exactly like that of the
Yellow Hundredfold, but is of a deeper, and nearly brown, colour.

Williams's New Early. — A very early and rather productive kind,
the seeds and pods of which are marbled with violet. This colouring
of the pods, added to their flat shape, lessens their value for table use.

Yellow Canterbury. — A dwarf variety, with small yellow bulg-
ing, straight seeds, very much resembling the Yellow Hundredfold.

EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

White Tall King of the Skinless Beans.

French, Haricots sans parchemin.
German, Zucker-, oder Brech-,
Bohnen. Danish, Snitte-
bonnen. Italian, Fagiuoli
mangia tutto.

I. TALL-GROWING
VARIETIES

Tall White Algerian
Wax or Butter Bean.—
A rather vigorous kind,
about 6J ft. high, very
remarkable for the light
or yellow tint of its
leaves, which renders it
conspicuous at a distance.
Stems wax - yellow or
white, as are also the
leaf-stalks; flowers white;
pods long and slender,
more or less curved,
each containing, with
some distance between
them, five or six white
egg - shaped, somewhat
elongated seeds over Jin.
long. An Edible-podded
variety, it has, besides,
this advantage — that its
dried seeds can be sent
to table.

White Tall King
of the Skinless Beans
(Haricot Roi des Mange-
tout}. — A very vigorous-

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 69

growing and productive variety, with strong and long stems and
abundant foliage ; pods numerous, yellow, sickle-shaped, extremely
fleshy, entirely free from parchment, and containing from five to
seven seeds each. The latter are large and white, squared at one
end, J in. long and J in. broad.

Cambrai Tall Wax or Butter Bean.— Not exceeding 5 ft.
in height ; stem slender,
pale green ; leaves small,
light green, striped gray-
green ; flowers white,
turning to nankeen-
yellow. Pods about 5 in.
long, \ in. broad, straight,
of a pleasing butter-
yellow colour, containing
five or six fairly large
white egg-shaped seeds,
about J in. long, slighter
in breadth, and about £in.
thick. A very productive
variety, producing pods
of excellent quality. Its
very vigorous growth
enables it to resist the
disease to which the tall
Beans are liable.

Mont d'Or Wax or
Butter Bean. — This
handsome and good
variety was raised near
Lyons, whence it has
been widely distributed
throughout France. It
is a very distinct kind,
scarcely as tall as the
Algerian Wax Bean, with
pale green stems tinged
with red, and smooth,
uncrimped light green
leaves and blue flowers. Pods very numerous, straight, pale yellow,
like those of all the Butter Beans, nearly 6 in. long, very free from
membrane, each containing five or six egg-shaped violet seeds,
spotted and marbled with brown, and perceptibly smaller than
those of the Black and White Algerian Wax Beans. This variety,
which is only grown for the pods, is remarkable for its earliness
and productiveness.

Mont d'Or Wax or Butter Bean.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Algerian Tall Black Wax or Butter Bean. — A very distinct
and well-known kind, probably the oldest of the varieties which
are called Wax or Butter Beans from the colour of their pods. It
is a plant of medium height, seldom exceeding about 6J ft, with
rather thick pale or yellow-green stems sometimes tinged with
violet ; leaves of average size, not much crimped, gradually

decreasing in size from the
base to the top of the stem,
and slightly ashy gray.
The pods, which are green
at first, assume, when they
are about 2 in. long, a pale
yellow semi - transparent
tinge, very much resem-
bling that of butter or
fine wax ; they are usually
somewhat curved, each
containing from four to
six seeds, which are blue
at first, then violet, and
when ripe quite black, and
of a slightly flattened egg-
shape, and a trifle longer
than those of the Prague
Kidney Beans. This is a
productive and moderately
early kind, and one of the
best of the Edible-podded
varieties. The pods are
entirely free from mem-
brane, and have hardly
any fibre, so that they are
quite tender and fleshy
when fully grown, and
may be sent to table
almost until they are per-
fectly ripe. The dried
seeds are seldom eaten

Black Algerian Butter Bean dV natural size).

on account of their very dark and unattractive colour.

Edible-podded Giant White Kidney Bean.— This very fine
variety appears to be the offspring of the Purple-podded Kidney
Bean, of which it exhibits all the vigorous and productive qualities ;
it has, moreover, the advantage of producing green pods and white
seeds, thus being free from the only two blemishes that can be
attributed to the Purple-podded Kidney Bean, viz. the objectionable
colour of its pods and seeds. It is a half-late but productive kind,

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 71

with stout stems 6 to nearly 10 ft. high. Leaves very large, but not

numerous ; leaflets rounded and crimped. The flowers are white ;

pods very broad, and

very numerous, 4 to 6 in.

long, entirely free from

membrane, thick and

fleshy, each containing

four to six flat white

seeds, resembling those

of the White Dutch or

Case-knife Kidney Bean.

When grown under

favourable circumstances,

this variety produces such

an abundance of pods as

to weigh down the stakes

which support it

Broad -pod Skinless
Kidney Bean. — This
variety, which was raised
by M. Perrier de la Bathie,
is one of the most singular
and distinct varieties that
has appeared for some
years past. It is a vigor-
ous, rather late productive
kind, and remarkable
amongst the Edible-
podded varieties. Stem
4 to 6 ft. high, bearing
pods abundantly near the
base ; leaves large, very
green, slightly crimped ;
pods so thick and fleshy
that the diameter from
side to side is one-third
greater than the distance
between the front seam
and the back. There is,
however, no empty space
inside the pod, which is

SO thick and fleshy that Edible-podded Giant White Bean.

the seeds have hardly

room to grow, and appear deformed by the pressure to which they
are subjected. They are white, elongated egg-shaped, sometimes
faintly kidney-shaped, about J in. long, and J in. broad and thick ;

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

they are almost unique in being irregular in shape, being almost
always flattened cross-wise, and the hilum, instead of occupying
its usual position, is situated on one side of the line which would
divide the seed into two equal parts. The seeds vary very much
in size, however, according to the season.

The Fat Horse Pole Bean or Mobile Bean resembles the
preceding variety, but is a little earlier.

Broad-pod Skinless Bean.

Four to Four Bean.

Geneva, or Plainpalais, White Butter Bean, or Wax Bean.
— This variety is highly esteemed by the Geneva market gardeners.
It is a tall-growing kind, coming very near the preceding one, but
differing from it in a few points. It is more decidedly a pole bean,
being a better climber than the other. The pods, which very much
resemble those of the Broad-pod Kidney Bean, are not so fleshy,
but they are produced in greater abundance, especially at the
middle and towards the top of the stems ; they also ripen more

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

73

readily. The seeds, or beans, are
nearly cylindrical shape. It is,
variety of Butter Bean.

Four to Four Bean. — Stems
bearing pods at a short
distance above the ground.
The pods, which are long,
straight, thick and in-
tensely green, are often
produced in bunches of
four, or even more — hence
its name. The seed is
short, square at the ends,
fairly full and white.
Though not free from
fibre, the pods may be
eaten green until they are
three-fourths of their full
size. The white colour of
the seed allows of its being
used in a dried state. The
Four to Four Bean is
productive and fairly
early.

Skinless Saint-Fiacre
Bean. — One of the most
productive varieties of
Skinless Pole Beans.
Stems green, tall, with
large, smooth leaves ;
pods very numerous, quite
straight, about 10 inches
in length, entirely without
membrane or fibre, and
tender and fleshy even
when fully grown. The
seed is oblong and thin,
dun-coloured, about f in.
long, about J in. broad,
and about half as thick.
A fairly early variety,
bearing during the whole
summer.

Skinless White-seeded Saint
the preceding, with all its good
enabling the surplus of the crop to

white, and of an elongated and
in fine, a good mid-season tall

green, about 6J ft. in height, and

Skinless Saint-Fiacre Bean.

-Fiacre Bean. — An offspring of
qualities added to white seeds,
be made good use of when dry.

74

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The pods equally fine and excellent. The seed is the same shape

and size, but of white colour.

From the Valley Skinless Bean. — Stem stout and branching,

10 ft. or more in height;
leaves light green,
pointed and smooth ;
flowers white. Pods
rosy white, 7 to 9 in.
long, twisted, with a
well-marked groove and
bulging seeds eight or
ten in a pod. The seeds,
like those of the Saint-
Fiacre Bean, are light
brown, but more flat ;
they are about f in. long
and about half as broad.
A very early and pro-
ductive variety, the pods
very fleshy, and tender
almost up to their com-
plete maturity.

Golden-yellow Tall
Skinless Bean.— A
vigorous variety, about
6| ft. in height, quick-
growing, but slackening
early. It is one of the
earliest Tall Skinless
Beans. It sheds its
leaves as early as the
Princess and the Prd-
dome Beans. The pods
are in bunches of four,
five, or six, long and
slightly curved, green
and fleshy. The seed
is rather small, straight,
squared at both ends,
light yellow streaked
with deep golden-yellow;

it seldom exceeds \ in. in length by half as broad, and is of about

the same thickness.

Purple-podded Runner Kidney Bean. — A very vigorous and

tall kind, sometimes attainihg a height of 9^ ft. and upwards. The

.-stems, which are stout and rather thick, are purple, as are also the

From the Valley Skinless Bean.

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 75

leaf-stalks and the calyxes of the flowers ; the leaves are rather
distant from each other, very much crimped, and dull green ;
flowers lilac ; pods very numerous, straight, slender, at first of a
very deep purple, but, as they advance in growth, becoming paler,
and more or less bulged and undulated, but always very solid and
fleshy. They are sometimes 10 in. long, and relatively slender, and
contain six to eight seeds each. The seeds are long and flat, some-
thing larger than those of the Flageolet Kidney Beans, and almost
the same shape ; and are rosy colour marbled with lilac-gray. A
rather early and exceed-
ingly productive kind, and
one of the best edible-
podded sorts, being quite
free from membrane, and,
when cooked, as green as
those of any other kind.

Edible-podded Black
Scimitar Runner Bean.—
A distinct kind, with flat
kidney-shaped seeds, and
pods entirely free from
membrane. It is a tall-
growing plant, being over
8 ft. high, with thick pale
green stems. Leaves large
and broad, rather distant
from each other, pale green,
and crimped; flowers lilac;
pods long and broad, not
-curved, but frequently
bulged or undulating on
the edges, 6 to 8 in. long,
violet at first, but losing
this colour as they increase
in growth, each containing
six to eight seeds of the
same size as those of the
White Dutch Kidney Bean,
but somewhat more humpy
and irregular in shape, and
with a very shining, brilliant
black skin. This variety is

remarkable for the great New Zealand, or Prague, French Bean.

size and beauty of its pods.

It is very productive, but rather impatient of damp, and half-late

in ripening.

76 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

New Zealand Runner Kidney Bean (Haricot de Prague
Marbre\ — A variety of moderate height, seldom exceeding about
4 ft., with thick green stems. Lower leaves large, slightly crimped,
the rest of medium size, narrow, and rather dark green ; flowers
pale lilac or rosy white ; pods broad, about 5 in. long, green at first,
afterwards becoming tinged with violet-red on a white ground>
and sometimes entirely red when ripe, each containing five or six
egg-shaped seeds, of a salmon-rose colour, spotted, dotted, and
striped with deep red, and having a brownish yellow circle around
the hilum. This kind, which was introduced about the middle of
the eighteenth century, is well known and extensively cultivated
under the name of " Coco Rose." It is more generally grown for
the dried seeds than for the pods.

White Prague Kidney Bean. — Although this variety
resembles the White Coco Bean in the colour and shape of the
seed, it is distinguished from it by several marked characteristics.
It is later and longer-lasting ; the leaves are more abundant and
do not fall so soon ; they are large, not much crimped, and rather
a dark green, and those at the top of the stem are nearly the same
size as the lower ones ; the flowers are white, and the pods, which
are abundantly produced up to the tops of the stems, are longer
and narrower than those of the White Coco ; the seed also is
larger, something flatter, and not so regularly egg-shaped. A
very productive variety, with the single drawback of being some-
what late, and therefore less valuable in localities where the autumn
is cold and damp.

White Coco, or Lazy Wife, Kidney Bean. — Stem green,
about 6J ft. high ; leaves of medium size, stiff, rather long and
pointed, of a dark, rather dull, green, and slightly crimped ; flowers
white ; pods of medium length, rather broad, green, each containing
five or six white egg-shaped seeds, about J in. long, nearly J in.
broad, and over £ in. thick. This variety, although ranking
amongst the Edible-podded kinds (especially when the pods are
young), is more esteemed for its seeds, which are used in the dried
state.

The Sophie Kidney Bean is considered to be only a sub-
variety of the White Coco, from which it differs in having rather
larger pods (which are sometimes tinged with red, like those of the
Prague Kidney Beans) and somewhat larger leaves.

Red Prague Kidney Bean. — This variety differs from the
preceding in the seeds being a uniform dark brown-red.

There is also a sub-variety, known as the Two-coloured Prague
Kidney Bean, the seeds of which are half red and white.

Among the Prague Kidney Beans should be included the
variety named Imperial Austrian White Coco, or Bossin. This is
a large, productive, and rather late kind, the seed of which is white

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

77

and nearly round, with a black bird-shaped blotch around the
hilum, something like the seed of the Spread Eagle, or Dove,
Kidney Bean.

The Two-coloured Italian Kidney Bean should also be
classed with the Prague Kidney Beans. It is a very productive,
tall kind, producing seeds of excellent quality for the table.
There is a sub- variety of it, the pods of which, immediately before
ripening, assume an exceeding lively uniform red colour, giving
the plant quite an ornamental appearance. The seeds of both
kinds are round, slightly egg-shaped, half white and half very pale
chamois-colour.

The Mammoth Podded Horticultural Pole Bean, or Worcester
Mammoth, Hampden, Mugwump, Carmine Podded Pole Bean,
cultivated in America, is only a sub-variety of the New Zealand
Runner Bean, with longer and stouter pods and larger seeds.

Two-coloured Coco Prolific Bean. — Seed a long oval in
shape, J to f in. in length, about 5 in. broad and of the same
thickness. The part opposite the kilum is entirely white : the
hilum itself is marked with
a narrow dark yellow ring,
girdled by streaks like those
of the Marbled New Zealand
Runner and extending over
one-third of the whole surface.

Tall White Predome
Kidney Bean. — Stem about
4 ft. high, green, thick, and
twisted ; leaves of medium
size, rounded at the base,
crimped, and a rather deep
green colour ; flowers white,
changing to yellow ; pods
very numerous, straight,
fleshy, deeply indented on
the sides by the bulging of
the seeds, 3 or 4 in. long,
each containing six or seven
very white nearly round
seeds, which are often flat-
tened at the ends, and are
about \ in. long, J in. broad,
and less than £ in. thick.

membrane, in this respect surpassing all other varieties of Tall-
growing Kidney Beans. The seeds, also, are of very good quality,

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

so that the plant supplies an excellent vegetable, not only while
the plants are green and the seeds half-formed, but also when the
seeds are fully grown and ripening. The pods, also, are free from
fibre, and can be cooked just as they are gathered, without any
trimming. This is one of the best kinds of Edible-podded Kidney
Beans, and is very extensively grown in France, particularly in
Normandy, where there are two or three forms of it which differ
slightly from each other in the size of the pods and seeds. It is
a half-late variety.

The Haricot Friolet and the H. Petit Carre de Caen are local
forms of the Pr6dome Kidney Bean rather than distinct well-
marked sub-varieties. The Friolet is usually considered to produce
smaller seed, but this does not appear to be a universally constant
characteristic.

Princess Runner Kidney Bean. — Stem green, thick, twisted,
6J ft. high or more ; leaves round, of medium size, crimped, and

deep green ; flowers white ;
pods very numerous
(especially at the base of
the stems, where they
form regular bundles),
straight, green, bulging
greatly over the seeds,
and turning yellow when
quite ripe ; they are from
4 to 6 in. long, and seldom
contain more than eight
seeds each. The seeds
are white, slightly egg-
shaped, and very like
those of the preceding
variety, except that they
are never flattened at
the ends. A very good,
hardy, exceedingly pro-
ductive, and fairly early
variety. It is extensively
grown in French Flanders,
Belgium, and Holland.
While it much resembles
the Predome Kidney
Bean, it is sufficiently
distinguished from it by
the greater distance between the seeds in the pod, and also by
growing fully one-third higher. When grown true to name, the
seeds of the Princess Kidney Bean (which never touch each other

Princess Edible-podded Runner French Bean.

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 79

in the pod) preserve their natural slightly elongated egg-shaped
form, while those of the Predome are pressed against each other,
and, consequently, become flattened at the ends.

There is a sub-variety with longer pods and greater distances

between the seeds, known
as the Long-pod Princess,
which is quite as early and
productive as the ordinary
variety.

From amongst the almost
innumerable other varieties of
Tall-growing Edible-podded

Cherry Japanese French Bean.

Ivory Butter Bean.

Beans, we may also mention the following as possessing the
greatest degree of merit : —

Cherry Japanese Bean. — A very distinct variety, with
numerous, very short pods, slightly over 2 inches long, contain-
ing 4 or 6 oval seeds of wine-lees-red colour and white hilum.

Tall Ivory Wax or Butter Bean. — A tall-growing kind, 6J to
over 8 ft. high. Stems whitish, slightly tinged with red on the side
next the sun ; leaves numerous, of medium size, and of a light
green ; flowers lilac ; pods numerous, fleshy, straight or slightly
curved, entirely free from membrane, and especially remarkable for
the white tint which they assume when they are two or three days
old, and which becomes more pronounced as they advance to
maturity. Each of them contains from five to eight egg-shaped

8o THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

seeds of red-violet colour, and of the same size as the seeds of the
Red Prague Kidney Bean, from which they differ in colour only.
This is a good Edible-podded variety, somewhat late, but an
abundant and remarkably continuous bearer.

Saint-Joseph Butter Bean. — This variety forms the connect-
ing link between the Prague Kidney Beans and the Butter Beans
properly so called. Its pods are straight or slightly curved, and are
streaked with red on a butter-coloured ground. The seeds are
marbled either with violet on a rose-coloured ground or with rose-
colour on a violet ground. The plant is not a tall-growing one, as
it seldom exceeds 4 ft. in height. It was raised about the year
1 860 at the agricultural colony of Citeaux, near Dijon.

Bulgarian Bean.— Rather late, vigorous, and prolonged in
vegetation ; stems tall and twining ; leaves dark green, large and
abundant ; flowers lilac ; pods long, straight, very fleshy and
brittle, dark green in colour striped with violet, and free from
parchment. The seed is long, flat, gray streaked with purple,
about | in. long, J in. broad, and about half as thick. In the
climate of Paris it is one of the best and most prolific Beans for
producing green pods, but for maturing its seed it requires
the warmth of Southern France.

Imperial Kidney Bean. — This is distinguished from the Tall
White Butter Bean only by the colour of its stems and pods, both
of which are green instead of butter-yellow.

Climbing Yellow, or Dunes Yellow, Kidney Bean. — Of
medium height, productive, and fairly early. Seeds yellow, nearly
cylindrical, resembling those of the Yellow Hundredfold. Pods
straight, very fleshy and tender, and from 4 to 6 in. in length.

Lafayette Kidney Bean. — A tall variety, rather late, and with
pods not altogether free from membrane. Flowers white ; pods
pale green, becoming yellow when ripe, each containing six to
eight chamois-coloured seeds marbled with light brown and shaded
with reddish brown around the hilum.

Nankeen-yellow Geneva Bean. — A tall early plant, bearing
an abundance of pods in bunches of four, five, and even eight on
the same stalk. Seed kidney-shaped, flat, pale nankeen-yellow.

Asparagus, or Yard Long, Kidney Bean. — A very tall kind,
nearly 10 ft. high. Leaves very large and distantly placed ; flowers
copper-coloured or lilac ; pods almost cylindrical, exceedingly long
and slender, sometimes more than a foot in length ; seed very long,
nearly cylindrical, but narrowed at both ends, of a more or less
coppery chamois-colour. A late kind, requiring a warm climate.

Rose-coloured Predome Butter Bean. — A plant of medium
height, seldom exceeding 4 ft., but branching and clumpy.
Flowers rose-coloured ; pods exceedingly numerous, growing in
profusion from the base to the top of the stem, but seldom

TALL EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

81

exceeding 2 or 3 in. in length, and each containing four to
six small nearly round seeds of a
salmon-rose colour.

Val d'Isere Kidney Bean.—
This is a very vigorous, leafy, late
kind,laden,in the end of autumn, with
green, fleshy, well-filled very much
curved pods. Seed black, egg-shaped.

Villetaneuse Kidney Bean.—
This variety, which was formerly
very much grown about Paris, is
now almost entirely superseded by
the Tall-growing Butter Beans. It
is a productive, somewhat late kind,
bearing rather long, tender, and
thick pods, each containing five or
six flattened, almost square, coffee-
coloured seeds marbled and streaked
with brown.

Gray Zebra Runner Kidney
Bean. — A late and very vigorous
kind, nearly 10 ft. high, with large,
spreading leaves and lilac flowers.
Pods thick, fleshy, curved, streaked
with violet on a green ground ;

La Val d'Isere French Bean.

Gray Zebra French Bean,

seeds egg-shaped, of a dark gray colour, dotted with lighter gray,
and striped with black. Raised by M. Perrier de la Bathie.

82

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The American variety, Giant Red Wax Pole Bean, is a Tall-
growing Edible-podded Kidney Bean, 6J ft. high, with large flat
white or yellow pods, resembling those of the Edible-podded Black
Scimitar Kidney Bean, and red seeds. It is a rather late kind.

II. DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS

Dwarf White Wax
or Butter Bean. — A
very good but somewhat
tender variety, forming
low, broad clumps, which
sometimes sprawl on the
ground. The leaves be-
come smaller and paler
towards the tops of the
stems. Flowers white ;
pods almost transparent,
waxy white, and about
4 in. long, each contain-
ing five or six short,
egg-shaped, creamy white
seeds, sometimes slightly
wrinkled. The dried
seeds are excellent for
the table.

King of the Wax
Bean. — A dwarf, com-
pact plant, with short
but stout rigid stems.
Pods numerous, very

thick (compared with their length), tender and fleshy. Seed

white, full, oblong, thin-skinned. Among the numerous varieties

of Wax Beans, this takes an

important place, its produc-
tion being more abundant

and longer than that of any

other. The dry seed is

very tender and of excellent

quality.

Very Early Dwarf Wax

or Butter Bean. — Regular

arid dwarf in habit and very

early ; stem short ; leaves

broad and pointed, veined,

gray-green. Pods long and numerous, yellow, free from membrane;

seed small, short, buff-coloured, about \ in. long and about half

King of the Wax Bean.

Very Early Dwarf Butter Bean.

DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 83

as broad and a little less in thickness. A very interesting
variety owing to its small size and great earliness. Admirably
adapted for forcing, but also
well suited for open ground
culture.

Dwarf Golden Wax
Bean. — Very dwarf, com-
pact, early and productive ;
pods tender and fleshy even
when fully grown. The
seeds five or six in a pod,
small, oval, bright yellow,
and about J in. long, about
i in. broad, and a little
less in thickness. Its earli-
ness and the little space it
occupies suit it well for
glass as well as for open
ground culture.

Digoin Wax Dwarf r"
Bean. — A vigorous, half-
early and very productive
variety for field as well
as kitchen-garden culture.

Dwarf, bushy, Compact, Dwarf Golden Wax Bean.

branching, with large dark

green leaves ; numerous fleshy, thick pods of a beautiful golden
yellow, and free from parchment. The seeds are oval and of

chamois-colour.

Mont d'Or Dwarf
Wax or Butter Bean. —
A very productive and
very early variety of Dwarf
Butter Bean. Stems I ft.
to 1 6 in. high, branching;
leaves large, rough, but
not crimped, deep green,
remarkable for the very
variable shape of the
terminal leaflet, which is
sometimes long and
pointed, and sometimes
nearly round and quite
blunt at end ; pods very
numerous, 4 or 5 in. long, well filled, and pale yellow; seeds
small and round, dark red, deepening into black.

Mont d'Or Dwarf Butter Bean.

84

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Butter Bean.— An established
dwarf variety of the Agerian Wax or Butter Bean, with rather

large yellow-stalked
leaves, the colour of
which varies, on the

Digoin Dwarf Wax Bean.

same plant, from dark
to light green. Flowers
lilac ; pods very fleshy
and butter-colour; seeds
black, egg - shaped, a
little smaller than those
of the Tall-growing
variety. This is an early
kind, very productive,
and of excellent quality,
and is one of the most
extensively grown varie-
ties of Kidney Beans.
It has the precious
peculiarity that the pods

on maturity become curved or bent, thus escaping contact with

the soil.

The Black Wax or Butter Bean is an early dwarf, with

pale gray-green foliage and black seed. It may be considered

as identical with the Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Bean.

The Prolific German Wax or Butter Bean, cultivated in the

United States, differs

only from the Dwarf

Algerian in having the

pods slightly longer,

more curving and

more swollen.

Long- podded

Dwarf Algerian

Butter Bean.— This

is to be a sub-variety

of the Dwarf Algerian

Butter Bean, differing

in its longer pods,

and also the shape of

its seeds, which, in-
stead of being egg-
shaped, are almost

cylindrical, nearly

} in. long and over J in. broad and thick. The pods are

very free from membrane, and are more slender and less

Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Butter Bean
(^ natural size).

DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 85

fleshy than those of the preceding kind. This variety has come
into very general cultivation about Paris, where it is grown in
the fields for the city
markets.

Early Dwarf White
Edible - podded Kidney
Bean. — Stem tall and
branching, attaining a
height of 20 in., leaves
medium sized, numerous,
rather crimped ; flowers
white ; pods 6 in. long,
flat, very thick and fleshy,
almost always curved or
twisted, each containing
five or six white flattened,

... . Long-podded Dwari Algerian Butter Bean

moderately kidney-shaped (i natural size).

seeds, sometimes slightly

squared at the ends, varying from J to nearly f in. in length,

about £ in. broad, and about £ in. thick. This variety is fairly

good for field culture, a good bearer and pretty early, but the

seeds are easily spoiled by cold or damp autumn weather.

Unique Dwarf White Kidney Bean. — Stem tall, vigorous, and
branching ; leaves rather deep green, large, rounded, and crimped ;
flowers large, white ; pods numerous, straight, 5 or 6 in. long, each

containing five or
six white, long, very
bulging, straight or
curved seeds, almost
as thick as they are
broad. This is one
of the best Dwarf
Edible- podded
Kidney Beans. Its
dried seeds also are
of excellent quality,
and perfectly white —
a great recommen-
dation, as Kidney
Beans of this colour
are generally pre-
ferred for table use.
Quarantain
Dwarf White Kid-
ney Bean. — A plant of medium height, with branching stems,
forming a rather compact clump. Leaves of average size, stiff

8

Unique Dwarf White Kidney Bean (§ natural size).

86

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

almost triangular, long, pointed, and dark lustrous green ; flowers
white ; pods flat and broad, and from 4 to 6 in. long. A hardy,
early, and fairly productive variety, but not always maintaining
a strictly dwarf habit of growth.

Dwarf Extra Early Wax or Butter Bean. — A very
dwarf plant, extremely early, forming and maturing its pods
before any other variety of Edible-podded Beans. In growth
it resembles the Dwarf Algerian Black-seeded Butter Bean ;
its pods, however, are not quite so fleshy or so yellow. The
seed is white, oblong, measuring about J in. in length, a
little less than £ in. in width and in thickness ; very hand-
some and regular in shape, and ivory-white in colour. Its
chief merit is its great earliness, the pods being ready for
the market fully eight days earlier than those of any other
variety.

White-seeded Dwarf Lyonnais Bean. — A white-seeded sport
of the following, the characteristics and qualities being the same.
The pods, 6 in. in length, contain six or seven straight, thin seeds,
slightly flattened.

Long-podded Dwarf Lyonnais Bean.— Dwarf, not over
12 to 15 j in. in height ; stems strong and branching ; leaves

long, broad, and lightly
crimped ; flowers lilac.
Pods very long, very
fleshy, almost as solid as
those of the Intestin Bean,
but much longer, more
pointed, and frequently
curved. Seed long,
straight, thin, slightly
flattened, dark chamois
or light brown in colour.
A very productive variety,
yielding pods of excep-
tional quality and beauty.
First grown about Lyons
only a few years ago,
and likely to gain favour
everywhere.

Haricot du Bon Jar-
dinier. — Dwarf, bushy,
with short, branching
stems ; dark green, rather
small, and finely crimped leaves ; flowers rosy lilac. Pods of
medium size, not very long, of the thickness of the little finger,
dark green, and free from parchment ; seed yellow, cylindrical,

Long-podded Dwarf Lyons Bean.

DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 87

Haricot du Bon Jardinier.

square, or rounded at both ends, resembling closely that of

the ^Hundredfold Bean.

Emile Dwarf Kidney Bean. — An exceedingly dwarf and

remarkably early variety,
seldom more than 8 or
10 in. high. Leaves
medium sized, of a rather
dark green, and slightly
crimped ; flowers white
or very pale lilac ; pods
somewhat curved, 4 or
5 in. long, very fleshy,
green before ripening and
never turning white or
yellow, each containing
from five to seven oblong
violet-coloured seeds
marbled with light gray,

about J in. long and J in. broad and thick. This variety, which

was recently raised by M. Perrier de la Bathie, seems to us to

be both the dwarfest and the earliest of all the Edible-podded

Kidney Beans, and is specially suitable for forcing.

Dwarf Purple-podded Bean. — A dwarf Bean remarkable for

the dark blackish colour which extends to all its parts ; the stems

dark purple, the leaves tinged violet, especially towards autumn,

and the pods so much so as to appear almost black. Like those of

the Purple Runner Bean,

the pods become green

in the cooking. The

plant is bushy, vigorous,

half-early, and produces

very fleshy, tender pods,

distinct from those of

any other sort.

Predome Dwarf

Kidney Bean. — The

pods and seeds of this

variety are exactly like

those of the Tall-growing

Predome Kidney Bean,

but less abundantly pro-

duced, and this deficiency Dwarf purPle-P°ddcd Skinle5s French Bean-

is not redeemed by any other particular merit. The ordinary

Predome Kidney Bean does not require very tall stakes, so that

it is not one of those kinds in which the raising of a dwarf variety

is any advantage.

88

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Dwarf Prolific Bean.— Dwarf, very bushy and branching ;
leaves rather small, narrow, but numerous, and vivid green in
colour ; flowers white or rosy, pods abundant, rather short, almost
cylindrical and bright green, containing each from four to six small
white oblong seeds, resembling those of the Rice Bean, but a little
longer. A very good half-early, hardy, vigorous and very productive
variety.

Pink-marbled Dwarf Prague Kidney Bean. — A very dwarf,
compact, moderately productive kind, with rather abundant gray-
green leaves and lilac flowers. Pods green, straight, or very
slightly curved, plentifully striped with red, each containing four
or five seeds resembling those of the common Cranberry Bean, but
somewhat smaller.

Yellow Canadian Dwarf Kidney Bean. — A very good variety,
hardy and productive, but somewhat late, well adapted for market-
garden or field cul-
ture. Stems rather
vigorous, branching,
16 to 20 in. high,
thickly covered with
medium-sized leaves
light green. Flowers
lilac ; pods very nu-
merous, green at first,
changing to yellow,
each usually contain-
ing five egg-shaped
seeds a little smaller
than those of the
Prague Kidney Beans,
and deep yellow,
merging into brown
about the hilum. The
dried seeds of this
variety are much esteemed. The pods, to be tender, should be
gathered before they are fully grown. Although closely resembling
the Yellow China Kidney Bean, this variety is distinguished from
it by the deeper colour of its seeds, and by its leaves being larger,
less crowded together, moderately crimped, and a darker green.

Oval Yellow China, or Robin's Egg, Kidney Bean.— A
rather branching kind, with stems about 16 in. high, forming an
airy-looking clump. Leaves medium-sized, and of bright green,
those at the top of the stem being small and long-stalked ; flowers
white ; pods green, turning yellow when ripe, each containing five or
six egg-shaped sulphur-yellow seeds, with a more or less marked
bluish circle around the hilum. This variety is one of the most

Yellow Canadian Dwarf Kidney Bean.

DWARF EDIBLE-PODDED KIDNEY BEANS 89

Oval Yellow China, or Robin's Egg, Kidney Bean
(^ natural size).

widely cultivated in different parts of the world, and is to be met
\vith almost everywhere in the colonies and America, under the

same name and exhibiting
the same characteristics.

Besides those already
described, there are many
other varieties of Dwarf
Edible - podded Kidney
Beans in cultivation, of
which we shall only
mention the following: —
Variegated White-
podded Butter Bean.—
Seed variegated, straight,
and almost cylindrical in
shape, creamy white with
spots and marblings of a
wine-lees red or red-violet
colour. This variety is
dwarf and rather tender. The American variety Early Valentine
may be considered identical with it.

Two-coloured China Dwarf Bean. — This variety does not
seem to be very much grown, and yet it is known almost everywhere.
It is rather tall and very branching, with white flowers. The pods
are of medium size, pretty free from membrane, turning white when
ripe, and each containing five or six straight, cylindrical seeds, often
square at the ends, and deeply striped with red around the hilum to
the extent of half the surface of the seed, while the other half is
entirely white. A rather productive and very early kind.

Dwarf White Malmaison Kidney Bean. — A productive and
moderately early variety, with fine fleshy, bulging pods, which are
usually straight. Seed rather long, oval, and white.

Dwarf Aix Kidney Bean. — A variety with small round rosy
white seeds. Pods yellow, and rather short, but free from
membrane.

Predome Flesh-coloured Wax Bean. — A dwarf, much-
branching variety ; pods numerous, short, straight, green ; seed
rosy, egg-shaped.

Princess Dwarf Kidney Bean. — This is not a very vigorous
kind, and its crimped and rounded leaves are very liable to disease,
arising either from the attacks of insects or from minute fungus
growths It is also rather late. The pods are short and curved,
free from membrane, and deep green. The remark made upon the
Dwarf Predome is also applicable to this variety ; however, as
the ordinary variety of the Princess attains a tolerable height, it
may sometimes be advantageous to have a dwarf form of it.

90 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The following are of American origin : —

Crystal Wax White Bean. — Dwarf, but usually running at
the top. Fbds short and white, almost transparent ; seeds white
and oblong.

Detroit Wax or Butter Bean is closely related to the following
one, the only difference being that its seed, likewise white, is
streaked with gray about the hilum.

Golden-eyed Wax or Butter Bean. — A very early Bean, the
pods yellow, large, and abundant. Seed white, short, and strongly
marked with orange about the umbilicus.

Golden Wax Bean.— A pretty and productive variety, early,
with pods free from parchment, and pale yellow. Seed white,
partly streaked with red, almost the same as the Early China Bean.

Improved Early Red Valentine Bean. — A good summer
Bean, especially if gathered when green. Pods fleshy. Seed
resembles that of Blood Speckled Bean.

Iron-pod Wax Bean. — Not a reliably dwarf kind, nor very
productive. Pods free from membrane, white, tinged or slightly
striped with violet ; seeds white.

New Golden Wax Bean. — A fine, productive, and early kind.
Pods free from membrane, and pale yellow ; seeds white, partly
marbled with deep red, almost like those of the Two-coloured
China Kidney Bean. This is a good variety.

Rachel Dwarf Bean. — Dwarf, productive, with thick bulging
pods ; seed oblong, chamois-coloured, blotched white at one end.

Valentine Wax Bean. — A sub-variety of the foregoing with
yellow pods.

Wardwell's Kidney Wax Bean. — Dwarf, free from parchment,
fairly early, with pods long, yellow, slightly curved, rather flat, and
larger than in the Flageolet Wax Canterbury. Seed long, white,
with a large violet stain on the umbilicus.

White Wax Bean.— Allied to the Dwarf White-seeded Wax
Bean, but more leafy, later, and with flatter pods.

Ward's Centenary Bean. — A productive light green variety,
with yellow, short, broad pods. Seed the same as that of the
Two-coloured Italian Bean — that is to say, like the Prague Bean.

SCARLET RUNNER BEANS

Phaseolus multiflorus, Willd.

French, Haricot d'Espagne. German, Arabische Bohne. Dutch, Turksche boon.
Italian, Fagiuolo di Spagna.

Native of South America. — Naturally a perennial, but cultivated
as an annual. — These plants, while extremely valuable as vegetables,
are esteemed as ornamental climbers, on account of their rapid
growth and the abundance of their flowers.

SCARLET RUNNER BEANS

The Scarlet Runner is the most
valuable, and frequently the most
beautiful, plant in English cottage
gardens. It is grown in thousands
of gardens, even in London and
our large cities and towns, hiding
with its quick-running and vigorous
shoots many ugly surfaces in summer,
and affording a quantity of whole-
some food. The pods are often,
like many other vegetables, allowed
to get too old and hard before being
gathered.

Scarlet Runners are generally
raised from seed, but the roots may,
if desired, be taken up in autumn
and preserved through the winter in
dry sand or in soil in any shed or
cellar from which frost is excluded.
If roots thus- wintered be brought
out and planted about the latter end
of May, they come into bearing a
fortnight or three weeks earlier than
those raised from seed sown at the
same time. They are also sometimes
left in the ground all the winter, and
protected from frost by a good thick
layer of coal ashes placed over the
rows. Thus treated, they start early
in May, if the weather be favour-
able ; and when they have attained
the height of 3 or 4 ft., if stopped,
will produce beans much earlier than
by any other method ; but if a pro-
fitable crop be desired, this plan is
not to be recommended, as the plants
do not continue in bearing so long
as those that are raised from seed.
Among positions chosen for Scarlet
Runners may be named small patches
of ground at the corners of walks,
planting five or six seeds in a patch,
5 or 6 in. apart. Three stout poles
or sticks, as used for Peas, are then
placed round them in the form of a
triangle, bent so as to meet at the top,
where they are tied. In small gardens
they are often trained over wire or
woodwork, so as to form summer-
houses or coverings for walks.

CULTURE. — In large gardens the
general practice is to sow in open
quarters, and where beans are re-
quired as long in the season as they
can be obtained, and in large quan-
tities, this is undoubtedly the best
plan. They should be allowed a
distance of at least 6 ft. between the
rows, and if more can be afforded
them, all the better. For early
crops, a few rows may be made close
under a south wall or fence, keeping
the points regularly pinched out, in
order to keep them dwarf and en-
courage the earlier development of
the pods. In this case they will,
of course, need no support, but be
allowed to lie in a thick row along
the ground. Beans may be produced
in this way several weeks earlier
than in open quarters, but they do
not continue so long in bearing, nor
do they produce such abundant crops.
Where, however, earliness is an ob-
ject, this plan may be followed with
advantage. Seeds for this purpose
may either be sown in heat and
transplanted, or sown in the open
ground where the plants are to re-
main. The former way is the more
troublesome, but it is the best where
covering is at hand to protect them
from cold winds and frosts after they
have been planted. If sown in heat,
the seeds should be put in about the
second week in May, either in boxes
or pots, boxes being the best ; they
should be shallow — say, not more
than 4 or 5 in. deep — their size in
other respects being of no great im-
portance ; they should have holes at
the bottom for drainage, and should
be half filled with half-rotted leaf-
mould pressed down rather firmly
with the hand; slightly cover with
fine soil, and upon this sow in rows
2 in. apart, and cover with about
|- in. of finely sifted leaf-mould,
giving the whole a good watering.
If placed in a Cucumber or Melon

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

frame at "work," they will soon be
up, and should be kept as near the
glass as possible, in order to pre-
vent them from becoming drawn.
After they have made two single
leaves, they should be taken to a
cold frame or pit, gradually inuring
them to the open air, so as to make
them as hardy as possible previous .
to planting out, which may be done
the first week in June. Before
planting them out, they should have
a good watering, and be taken out
of the boxes with as much earth
adhering to them as possible. Plant
either in double or single rows,
4 or 5 in. apart, as close to the wall
or fence as may be convenient. If
they be then well watered and shaded
from the sun for a day or two, and
protected from cold at night, they
will soon make a good start.

SOWING IN OPEN GROUND. — The
first sowing in the open ground for
a general crop should be made not
earlier than the first week in May,
for if they are up before the end of
that month they are liable to be cut
off with frost, unless protection can
be afforded them — a rather trouble-
some matter where large quantities
are grown. Some draw drills in
which to sow the seeds, but the
best way is to plant them in with
a dibble about i in. deep, and then
draw the rake over the ground to fill
in the holes. Double rows are to be
preferred to single ones, as they pro-
duce more beans. Each seed should
be at least 6 in. apart. Managed in
this way they grow strongly, and if
stopped when they have attained
the height of 5 or 6 ft., they will
produce fine large trusses of bloom
from top to bottom. Where succes-
sions are desired, several sowings
must be made. The general rule is
to sow one good crop and let that
serve all purposes; but if a sowing
be made the first week in May, a

second a few weeks afterwards, and
another not later than July ist, a
continuous supply of young and
tender beans will be the result ; the
last sowing, however, should be only
a small one. Sowing in trenches
has lately been much practised, and
in some cases no doubt with advan-
tage ; but when sown in deeply dug
ground, trenches are unnecessary.
They are generally made with the
view of affording an effectual means
of watering the plants ; but they
necessitate the water being applied
close to their bases, which is hurtful
rather than beneficial to Runner
Beans. Where, however, the earliest
crop of Scarlet Runners has to be
sown in open quarters, the best way
is to take out a trench, say, 3 or 4 in.
deep, laying the soil on each side
of it in ridges. Pea-wires or bent
Hazel sticks may then be placed
on the rows after the seed has been
sown and covered ; these will afford
good supports for mat or canvas
protections until the plants will do
without covering; after which time
the soil may be put back in the
trench, and no further earthing-up
will be necessary.

STICKING SCARLET RUNNERS. —
Where procurable, common Pea-
sticks are best adapted for Runner
Beans, but they require to be rather
larger and stronger than for Peas ;
for unless firmly sticked, they are
apt to suffer during rough, windy
weather. Where, however, such
sticks are not obtainable, stout
poles, 7 or 8 ft. long, may be used,
placing them firmly in the ground
at intervals of 6 or 10 ft. apart along
each side of the row. Slender sticks
cut the same length as the distance
the poles are apart may then be
tied lengthways along the poles,
i or i^ ft. apart; the plants will
twine firmly round these, and thus
support themselves.

SCARLET RUNNER BEANS

93

With respect to soil, a light rich
loam is best for the Scarlet Runner,
and it should be deep, to allow of
the roots descending in time of
drought. Previously to planting, the
ground should be deeply trenched
and enriched by means of a liberal
supply of good rotten manure.
Where, however, time cannot be
spared for this, trenches may be
taken out, 2 ft. wide and from
2 to 3 ft. deep, according to the
depth of the soil. The soil thus
taken out should then have plenty
of good manure mixed with it, and
be replaced in the trench. If this
be done in autumn, it will be all the
better.

MARKET GARDEN CULTURE. —
Scarlet Runners, on account of their
taking up more room, are not so
much grown in London market gar-
dens as the dwarf French Beans.
Their yield is not so great in propor-
tion to the ground occupied, and
they are also, unless supported by
stakes, more difficult to gather.
Around Wandsworth, and in some
parts of Kent, within twenty miles
of London, however, large fields are
devoted to their culture. In some
places stakes are used, but, as a
rule, the points of the shoots are
kept stopped, and the haulm is
-allowed to rest on the ground. In
some respects this latter practice is
best, for the rows can be placed close
together, and, moreover, the haulm
shades the ground and keeps the
soil moist, a condition essential to
the growth of Scarlet Runners. A

rich, light soil and an open situa-
tion is that usually chosen for them.
Some plant a few rows in warm,
sheltered places for early use, the
seeds of which are sown in a tem-
porary frame in April, and are trans-
planted from thence to the open
ground as soon as the weather is
warm enough to admit of it, but, as
a rule, the seed is sown in drills in
an open field about the first week
in May. Ground previously occu-
pied by Celery suits these Beans
perfectly, the soil being deep, well
worked, and rich. The seeds are
sown in broad drills from 4 to 8 ft.
apart, according to whether the plants
are to be staked or not. Two rows
occupy each drill, and the plants
when up are left from 4 to 6 in.
apart each way, the thinnings being
used to fill up gaps, should such
occur. When the plants are fairly
up, a ridge of earth is drawn to
each side of them, to protect them
in some measure from cutting winds
and late frosts. When in full flower,
the points of the shoots are pinched
off, which causes the stem to branch
and keep dwarf. Early in July
Scarlet Runners appear in Covent
Garden, and when that happens
French Beans are not in so much
demand as hitherto, the majority
of vegetable consumers preferring
Runners to French Beans. Some
market gardeners sow successional
crops for autumn use, but the bulk
of the produce is brought to market
in the end of July and throughout
August.

There are several varieties, differing in the colour of their
flowers and seeds ; the principal are : —

1. The Scarlet Runner.— The seeds of this variety are light
wine-colour, blotched with black.

2. The Black-seeded Runner.— The flowers of both this and
the preceding variety are a uniform scarlet.

3. Painted Lady, Bicolor, or York and Lancaster Runner.—

94

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The seed of this variety hardly differs from that of the Scarlet
Runner, but the flowers are half red and half white, the keel and
wings being white, and the standard scarlet-red.

4. Hybrid Scarlet Runner. — The seeds of this kind are very
distinct, being a gray-yellow blotched with brown ; the flowers are
variegated like those of the Painted Lady.

5. The White Runner. — This is the only kind that is sometimes
grown in France as a vegetable. Stems very vigorous, climbing,

attaining a height of
nearly 10 ft. in a few
weeks ; flowers white, in
numerous long - stalked
clusters ; pods broad, very
flat, seldom containing
more than three or four
seeds each ; seeds white,
full, very large, kidney-
shaped, sometimes I in.
l°ng> I in. broad, and
| in. thick. The seeds
of Scarlet Runner Beans
do not usually ripen well
in the climate of Paris.
In the south of France,
however, this species,
which is very hardy and
very productive, is grown,
to a moderate extent, as
a vegetable, and in some
other countries it is very
highly esteemed. In the
north of France, the seeds
are too thick-skinned, and
are deficient in delicacy
of flavour. They contain
a great deal of flour, but
are inferior, especially in
the dried state, to any of
the good French varieties
of Kidney Beans. In
England the pods are most generally used in the young green
state, many preferring the flavour of these when quite young to
that of the Kidney Beans in a similar stage. They are best pulled
when they have attained about two-thirds of their development,,
just when the seeds begin to form, and if cut lengthwise in narrow
strips they cook much more readily.

White Runner Bean (TV natural size).

LARGE LIMA BEAN

95

LARGE LIMA BEAN

Phaseolus lunatus, L.

French, Haricot de Lima. German, Breitschotige Lima Bohne. Italian^ Fagiuolo di
Lima. Spanish, Judia de Lima.

Native of South America. — Annual. — Stem climbing to the
height of nearly 10 ft. ; leaves composed of three triangular leaflets>
longer and narrower than
those of ordinary Kidney
Beans ; flowers small,
greenish white, in numer-
ous stiff long clusters ;
pods short, very flat and
very broad, rough on the
outside, like those of the
Scarlet Runner Beans ;
seeds flat and short,
slightly kidney-shaped,
with one half nearly al-
ways larger than the other,
and usually marked with
wrinkles or flutings from
the hilum outwards. The
varieties of the Lima Bean
are grown in the same
manner as the ordinary
Tall-growing Kidney
Beans, but they are later,
and seldom ripen seed in
the climate of Paris. The
seeds are sent to table
either fresh or dried.
They are farinaceous, and
are highly esteemed in
the United States and in
some warm countries.

Common Lima Bean.
— Rather late - growing,
never ripening more than
a portion of its pods in
the climate of Paris, and never ripening there at all in cold damp
seasons. Stems thick, and pale green ; leaves medium-sized,
smooth, and gray-green ; seed broad and flat, white, slightly tinged
with yellow, over f in. long, about f in. broad, and about J in.
thick. There is a green-seeded variety, and another which has

Large Lima Bean (^ natural size).

96 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

white seed, like that of the type, but marked with a small brown
or blackish blotch close to the hilum.

Dwarf Lima Bean. — An American variety, distinct, and much
appreciated in the United States, where Lima Beans are amongst
the vegetables most generally used in the autumn. Its leaves,
flowers, and pods resemble much those of the Sieva Bean, but it
is a truly dwarf variety, forming low, compact bushes, which do not
require any support. Added to this, its earliness ensures its success
in many localities where the tall Lima Bean fails to reach maturity.

Mottled Lima, or Marbled Cape, Bean.— This differs from
the Common Lima Bean only by the peculiar variegation of the
seed, in which a large patch of red, more or less deep, surrounds
the hilum, from which it extends to one end of the seed, which it
entirely covers for about one-third of its length ; the remainder of
the surface being finely dotted with the same red on a white
ground. This variety is almost as late as the Common Lima Bean.

Small Lima, or Sieva, Bean. — Stems slender and green ;
leaves smaller and darker in colour than those of the Common
Lima Bean. This variety of Phaseolus lunatus differs from the
preceding ones in having much smaller seeds, which in other
respects resemble those of the Common Lima Bean, but are seldom
over | in. in length, about ^ in. broad, and £ in. thick. The Small
Lima Bean is also earlier than the other varieties of Phaseolus
lunatus, and its first pods ripen regularly in the climate of Paris ;
but it is very far from being as productive there as it is in warm
climates, where it often continues bearing for three months. In
the United States a variety is grown which has the seed streaked
with red.

In the United States, where the Lima Bean is one of the most
valued of autumn vegetables, there are some half-a-dozen varieties
in cultivation, both runner and dwarf. Among those in the first
-category are the following: —

Burpee's Willow-leaf Lima Bean. — Resembles the Sieva
Bean, but distinct from it in its linear-lanceolate leaf, from whence
its name of Willow-leaf.

Challenger, Dreer's Improved, Potato Lima Bean. — A very
vigorous and fairly productive medium-early variety. The pods
are thicker than in the other varieties, and contain three to five
large rounded, swollen seeds. A very good kind.

Extra Early Jersey Lima Bean. — Eight or ten days earlier
than the Lima Runner Bean, but with smaller seeds.

King of the Garden Lima Bean. — A vigorous variety, pro-
ducing pods of a length rarely obtained by the other varieties, and
-containing five or six very large seeds of excellent quality.

? Siebert's Early Lima Bean. — Fairly early, abundant, and
^constant producing ; the pods, of medium size, seldom contain more

LARGE LIMA BEAN 97

than three or four seeds, which are, however, very large and
tender.

Among the American varieties of the Dwarf Lima Bean, we
may mention : —

Burpee's Willow-leaf Bush Dwarf Lima Bean. — A dwarf
form of the Burpee's Willow-leaf mentioned above.

Dwarf Large White Lima Bean, Burpee's Bush Lima
Bean. — Only differs from the foregoing in being earlier.

Burpee's Quarter- Century Dwarf Lima Bean. — The same
remark applies to this.

Kumerle Dwarf Lima Bean, Dreer's Bush Lima Bean. —
A dwarf form of the Challenger Lima Bean described above.

Dwarf Sieva Lima Bean, Henderson's Bush Lima Bean,
Wood's New Prolific Lima Bean. — A frankly dwarf form of the
Small Lima or Sieva Bean, forming low thick tufts. Earlier than
its runner variety, it ripens its seed in the Paris climate. In the
United States it is one of the most valued and most cultivated kinds.

DOLICHOS

Several species of the genus Dolichos also are cultivated as
kitchen-garden plants, especially in warm countries, but of these we
shall only mention kinds that can be grown in the climate of Paris.

Black-eyed Dolichos (Dolichos unguiculatus, L. Leguminosa}.
— An annual plant, usually growing from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, with
leaves composed of three triangular, elongated leaflets, which are
rounded at the base, very smooth, and dark green. Flowers large,
changing from white to rose-colour and lilac, with a deeper-coloured
blotch at the base of the petals, and growing in twos or threes on a
thick stout flower-stalk ; pods pale green, straight, or curved as
they become heavy, varying in length from 6 to 10 in., nearly
cylindrical, and slightly bulged over the seeds, which usually lie at
some distance from each other ; seeds rather variable in size and
colour, usually white, short kidney-shape, blunt or square at both
ends, slightly wrinkled, and marked with a very pronounced black
blotch around the hilum. In those countries where, as in Italy, the
Black-eyed Dolichos is extensively cultivated, a great number of
varieties are grown, which differ from one another principally in the
size of the seeds. The climate of Britain is too cold for these plants,
but many parts of the Colonies are suited for their culture. They
bear a degree of heat which would injure the Beans that thrive with
us. CULTURE is the same as that of the Dwarf Varieties of Kidney
Beans. This plant, however, is not very particular as to the soil in
which it is grown. The young pods are cooked in the same way
as green Haricots.

Years ago, M. Durieu de Maisonneuve, director of the Botanic
Garden at Bordeaux, introduced a very singular variety of this

98

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

plant, the pods of which, instead of being straight, are curved round
and round, from which peculiarity it received the name of Ram's-
horn Bean. Its culture and uses are the same as those of the
ordinary variety.

ASPARAGUS BEAN

Dolichos sesquipedalis, L.
Leguminosce.

French, Dolique Asperge, Haricot
Asperge. German, Amerikan-

ische Riesen - Spargel - Bohne,

tige Spargel -
Dutch, Indiaansche Boon.

Langschotige Spargel - Fasel.

Very Early Long-pod Asparagus Bean.

Italian, Fagiuolo Sparagio.

Native of South
America. — Annual. —
Stems climbing, 6 to over
9 ft. long ; leaves deep
green, rather large, long,
pointed ; flowers large,
greenish yellow, with the
standard bent backwards,
remarkable for two small
parallel auricles which
compress the wings and
the keel : they are borne
either solitary or two
together on the top of
the flower-stalk. Pods
pendent, cylindrical, light
green, very slender, and
long ; not unusually ex-
ceeding \\ ft. in length.
The seeds are few for the
size of the pod, being
generally from seven to
ten in number ; they are
kidney-shaped, and red
or pale wine-lees colour
with a black circle round
the white kilum ; they
are seldom more than
about J in. long. The
plant is cultivated in the
south of France, especially
in Provence. The culture

ASPARAGUS BEAN

99

is similar to that which is employed in the case of late varieties
of Tall Kidney Beans. A good warm position is desirable, the
best being one against a wall. The green pods are used in the
same way as Kidney Beans.

Long Tonkin Asparagus Bean. — A remarkably eany variety,
producing in the open
ground, in the vicinity
of Paris, as early as
July or August, long,
thin, very tender, and
fleshy pods. The seed
is rather small for use
as a vegetable by itself:
it is yellow-white, with
a black ring around the
hilum ; it measures less
than J in. in length,
and a little less still in
breadth and thickness.

Very Early Long-
pod Asparagus Bean.
— A sub-variety of the
Cuban Asparagus Bean;
like the latter, very
vigorous in growth and
productive, but distin-
guished from it by its
very great earliness,
which allows it to mature
its seed in temperate
climates. The seed is
small, chocolate-brown,
with a white eye sur-
rounded by a black
ring, and measures a
little over i in. in length
and about ^ in. in
breadth. Ripens in the
climate of Paris.

Giant Extra Early Giant Extra Early Asparagus Bean.

Asparagus Bean. — Distinguished from the preceding ones by
the extreme length of its pods, sometimes as much as 3 ft. 3 in.
They are very numerous, and broader than those of the Cuban
Asparagus Bean, and they contain a large number of red seeds,
marked black around the white hilum. Ripens in the climate
of Paris.

IOO

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Cuban Asparagus Bean. — A vigorous climbing plant, attaining
a height of from 10 to 13 ft; leaves very large; leaflets long,

spear-shaped ; flowers of
medium size, green, mostly
solitary, succeeded by pods
of remarkable length, being
often over 2j ft. long when
fully grown. They are
then inflated by the swell-
ing of the seed, and are
about J'in. broad. The
seed, in form and colour,
exactly resembles that of
the Asparagus Bean, of
which this appears to be
a variety, but a very
distinct one, as it grows
much taller and is a
thorough climber. It is
cultivated, however, in the
same way, and the pods
are similarly eaten when
green, before they are fully

Cuban Asparagus Bean (T\ natural size). grown.

LABLAB, or EGYPTIAN KIDNEY BEAN

Lablab vulgaris, Savi. Leguminosce.

French, Dolique Lablab. Italian, Fagiuolo d'Egitto. Spanish, Indianella. Portuguese,

Feyas da India.

Native of India.— Annual. — A climbing plant, with stout
branching stems, which are sometimes from 13 to over 16 ft. long.
Leaves compound, with three large broad leaflets of a dark green
colour, and slightly puckered or crimped ; flowers sweet-scented,
large, in long dense clusters ; pods rather short, wrinkled, and very
flat, growing sometimes seven or eight together on the same stalk ;
seed short, oval, flat, three or four in each pod ; hilum white, much
marked, occupying nearly one-third of the circumference of the
seed. There are two principal varieties, one with white flowers
and white seed, and the other with violet flowers and black seed.
They are grown in the same way as Tall Kidney Beans. In
France they are only grown as ornamental plants, but the seeds
are eaten in those countries where they are grown for table use.

LABLAB, OR EGYPTIAN KIDNEY BEAN 101

Stringless Lablab Asparagus Bean. — The tendency in the
ordinary Bean of the stringy fibres to disappear under careful
cultivation is also seen in the Lablabs. The variety under considera-
tion is exceedingly vigorous in growth, and yields an enormous
quantity of pods. Stem light green, very branching ; leaves large,
very pointed, and smooth; flowers white, in large trusses; pods

Lablab or Egyptian Kidney Bean.

very numerous, in bunches, yellowish white, slightly downy, short,
broad, and rounded at the end. Seed brown, provided with a
curious white aril or keel along one of the edges ; it is about \ in
in length and a little more than \ in. broad and thick.

102 • ; THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

BEET-ROOT.

Beta vulgaris, L. Chenopodiacea.

French, Betterave, Bette, Racine d'abondance. German, Salat-Riibe. Dutch and
Flemish, Betwortel. Danish, Rodbede. Italian, Barbabietola. Spanish, Remo-
lacha. Portuguese, Beterraba.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — A plant which, in the first year
of its growth, forms a more or less long, thick, and fleshy root, and
runs to seed in the second year. The fruiting stem is about 4 ft.
high, and as the calyx of the flower continues to grow after the
flower has faded, and completely covers the seed, it becomes corky
in substance and appearance, and forms what is commonly called
Beet-seed, but which is really a fruit, nearly as large as a pea, and
almost always containing several seeds. The true seeds are very
small, kidney-shaped, brown, and with an exceedingly thin skin.
They retain their germinating power for six years or more.

It is not exactly known when the Beet-root was first introduced
into cultivation. The ancients were acquainted with the plant,
but we have no account from which we can be certain that they
cultivated it. Olivier de Serres mentions it as having been intro-
duced into France from Italy not long before the time at which he
wrote.

CULTURE. — Beet is sown, where the crop is to grow, in the
open air, as soon as the spring frosts are over, and best in drills, for
greater convenience in hoeing ; and the young plants are thinned
out, with a greater or less space between them according to the
size of the variety grown. They prefer a deep, rich, well-manured,
and well-tilled soil. It is a good plan to dig in the manure in the
autumn, as fresh strawy manure is apt to cause the roots to become
forked. A few waterings in dry weather will be the only additional
attention required by the growing plants, the roots of which come
to maturity from July to the end of autumn, according to the time
at which sowings were made.

A deep sandy loam, trenched to dressing of coal ashes worked into

a depth of at least 30 in., suits it them would prove advantageous,

better than any other kind of soil, and materially assist in producing

and if poor, it should have been well " clean " roots. Stable manure

manured for the previous vegetable should not be added to the soil

crop. "In such soil, the evenest and unless it is trenched deeply, when it

cleanest roots are produced ; but Beet may be placed quite at the bottom

will also succeed on calcareous soils, of the trench ; if otherwise, as soon

if of sufficient depth. Heavy or stiff as the roots reach it they become

loams intended for its growth should forked, instead of making straight

be thrown up into ridges before and well-shaped roots; therefore, if

winter sets in, so as to get well pul- the soil be so poor as to require

verised, and, if very heavy, a light manure, a sprinkling of guano or

BEET-ROOT

103

superphosphate, applied to it between
the rows as soon as the plants are
fairly established, will be found the
best stimulant.

SOWING, ETC. — Beet must have an
open situation; it never grows or
looks satisfactorily when grown
under the shade of fruit trees — a
position to which it is often rele-
gated ; but this should not be, for
most varieties of Beet are ornamental
as well as useful, and one would,
therefore, suppose that a conspicuous
place would be selected for them.
The time for sowing varies from the
beginning of April to the middle
of May. In the majority of soils,
about April 2oth will be found to
be the best time ; if sown too early,
•especially if the soil be rich, it is
liable to run to seed, or the roots to
grow too large — medium-sized roots
being always most highly valued,
more particularly for salads. The
seed should be sown in drills 15
in. asunder, and i| in. deep; and
it should be covered in by hand —
a rake should not be employed for
this purpose, as by its use half the
seed is often drawn out of the drills,
and the plants come up irregularly.
Thin out the seedlings, as soon as
they are large enough to handle, to
9 in. apart in the row, and if
dark, bronzy leaved kinds be grown,
see that the greenest-looking plants
are drawn out. After thinning has
been completed, by means of the hoe
frequently loosen the soil between
the rows — an operation which will
aid the growth of the Beet, and at
the same time keep down the weeds.
If blanks, through failures, occur
in the rows, they should be filled
up with young plants in showery
weather, though roots obtained in
this way rarely prove satisfactory,
being small and irregular in growth ;
still, it is worth doing, if only for
the sake of appearance.

VARIETIES. — As a rule, the colour
of the roots is the first consideration ;
but flavour should in our opinion
have precedence, rather than colour.
Where both are combined, however,
as is the case in Dell's Crimson,
which has many synonyms, such a
variety must be the best to grow ;
moreover, this variety has the addi-
tional attraction of deep crimson-
coloured foliage, and is of no small
importance as an ornamental plant.
Other good varieties are — Hender-
son's Pine-apple, Dimmick's Non-
pareil, Nutting's Dwarf Red, and
Egyptian Turnip-rooted, the last
being more especially valuable for
early summer supply, as it comes
into use nearly a fortnight earlier
than any of the long-rooted sorts.
It is also suited for growing on
shallow soils, and, although pale in
colour, is of excellent quality.

STORING BEET-ROOT. — Frost is
most injurious to Beet-roots, which
should, therefore, be dug up by the
end of October, or provision should
be made for protecting them in the
ground, in the event of severe weather
setting in. Stable litter, hay-bands,
or Bracken (Pteris aquilina) will
effectually protect Beet ; but, where
neatness is studied rather than utility,
this manner of protection should not
be thought of. In that case, the roots
should be dug up at the time men-
tioned above, and " clamped " in the
same way as Potatoes ; or they may
be layered in dry soil or sand, in a
cool shed, — but it must be really
cool, or they will start into growth,
and the flavour will go.

For market-garden culture, a
good crop of Beet-root is very remu-
nerative, and when there is a ready
sale for it in the market it pays
better than any other root crop.
The main sowing is made to succeed
Wallflowers, Radishes, Spinach, or
Cabbages, and it is also often grown

104

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

on Asparagus ridges,, between rows
of fruit bushes, and between lines of
Vegetable Marrows ; and even when
growing in the open field, it is often
intercropped. An early sowing is
usually made, in lines about 15 in.
apart, in the first week of May, be-
tween rows of Cabbages or Lettuces,
recently planted ; after the seeds
germinate and the plants are well
above ground, they are thinned out
into patches with short hoes, and
when they have formed a few rough
leaves they are thinned out to single
plants by hand. Some make a sow-
ing even as early as in March, in a
sheltered piece of ground, for yield-
ing an early supply. In harvesting
a crop of Beet-root which has to be
kept through the winter, the roots
are carefully dug up, preserving
them their whole length intact, and
keeping 2 in. of the stalks attached
after the leaves have been twisted
off by hand. They are then built
in pyramidal-shaped clumps, and
covered with straw, over which a

coating of soil is put to exclude
frost. Leaving the roots in the
ground is the best plan, as their
proper flavour is thereby preserved
better than when lifted and stored :
but they are liable to be injured by
frosts in January, or to be locked in
the soil when it might be convenient
to send them to market. Some of
the darkest and finest-shaped roots
are kept for seed-bearing plants, and
are planted in some out-of-the-way
nook by themselves. Transplanting
Beet is only resorted to to fill up
vacancies in the rows, as in the
operation the main roots are often
broken, or otherwise so damaged
as to render it almost impossible for
them to produce good roots. Dark
crimson-coloured Beets are those
which are most esteemed by market
gardeners, most of whom grow their
seeds saved from selected plants.
Carter's St. Osyth is a favourite
kind with many growers, but none
are liked so well as the selected
Dark Crimson.

USES. — A great number of varieties are grown for table use,
the roots being either plainly boiled or baked, or pickled or used
for salads. Other varieties are used for feeding cattle, or for the
manufacture of sugar, for which reason we do not mention them.
When lifted, the tops should not be cut, but screwed off, and the
roots should not be injured more than can be helped, as injury to
them induces decay. Before cooking, the roots should be well
washed, but not peeled or scraped, or the skin bruised ; for, if
such be the case, much of the saccharine matter escapes during the
boiling. Boiling doubtless renders Beet most agreeable to the
generality of consumers ; though some prefer to bake it, by which
a deeper colour and a firmer texture of flesh are ensured.

GARDEN BEET

I. RED-FLESHED VARIETIES

Large Blood-red Beet— This is the kind which is most exten-
sively grown in France, being intermediate between the garden
and the field varieties. It is very productive, very hardy, and of
good quality for table use. It is also the kind which is most

RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET

105

frequently brought ready boiled to the market-places. Root almost
cylindrical, as thick as a man's arm, and I ft. to 14 in. long,
growing with over one-third of its length over-
ground, sometimes becoming tap-rooted and
forked at the extremity. The colour of the
skin of the part covered by the soil is of a
uniform deep red, while the part overground
is more or less reddish and wrinkled. Flesh
deep red; leaves large and stout, green marbled
and veined with red ; leaf-stalks very red. The
large size of the roots of this variety and the
heavy crop which it yields recommend it as
the best of the kitchen-garden varieties for field
culture. For some time past, very red-fleshed
and red-juiced kinds of Beet have been much
sought after for various economic or manufac-
turing purposes, and the variety now described
is eminently adapted for such uses.

Gardanne Beet, which is in high repute
in the south of France, comes very near this
variety, differing from it only by being a little
thicker under the neck, and growing with less
of the root overground.

Long Smooth Blood-red, or Long Smooth
Rochester, Beet. — Root very long, almost
cylindrical, attaining a length of 14 in., with a
diameter of hardly 2 in., and almost entirely
underground ; skin smooth and uniform, of a
dark red colour; flesh blackish red. A hand-
some variety, of good quality, and keeping well.
To grow well, it requires a deep, well-dug, and well-manured soil.

Rough-skinned Red Beet-root (B. Rouge Crapaudine). — One
of the oldest varieties, and distinguished from all the others by
the peculiar appearance of the skin, which is black and broken by
small cracks or crevices, like the bark of a young tree, or perhaps
still more resembling the skin of a Black Winter Radish. Root
rather long, almost entirely buried in the soil, and frequently some-
what irregular in shape ; flesh very red, sugary, and firm ; leaves
numerous, slightly twisted, spreading rather than erect, almost
entirely green, with red stalks. This variety affords a striking
instance of the absence of any invariable correspondence between
the colour of the flesh of a Beet-root and the colour of its leaves.
No other kind has deeper-coloured flesh than this, and yet many
have the leaves much more deeply tinged with red.

The Beets known as the Little Negress of Rennes and the Red
Beet-root of Diorieres do not appear to differ from this variety.

Large Blood-red Beet
(£ natural size).

io6

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Deep Blood-red Castlenaudary Beet. — Root small, nearly
buried in the soil, rather slender, straight, sometimes with a tap-
root of some length ; skin black-red ; flesh very dark red, compact,
solid, and very sugary ; leaves dark red, with long stalks. This
variety does not yield a heavy crop, but its quality is excellent.
The English varieties Long Deep Red and Very Dark Red are

Rough-skinned Red Beet.

Deep Blood-red Castelnaudary Beet.

very similar to this. The same may be said of Debbie's New
Purple and Goldie's Superb Black, their roots being only a little
thicker.

Whyte's Black Beet.— Synonyms : Osborn's Improved Blood-
red, Barratt's Crimson, Oldacre's Blood-red, Perkins's Black. — A
handsome medium-sized kind. Root long, thick under the neck,
sometimes a little angular instead of being regularly round ; skin
smooth, of a very deep slate colour ; flesh black-red, firm, and of
good quality ; leaves rather stout, slightly crimped and undulated,
of a brown-red colour, more or less tinged and mixed with green ;
leaf-stalks red. This is one of the best varieties ; the flesh is very
deeply coloured, and the root can be easily distinguished from all
others by the gray or leaden hue of the skin. It is fairly pro-
ductive, and keeps well.

RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET

107

Dwarf Red, or Nutting's, Beet— A very handsome variety.
Root very symmetrical in shape, small, slender, long, deeply sunk
in the soil ; leaves deep red, half-erect, uncrimped, slightly undulated,
and much longer than broad.

Dell's Dark Crimson Dwarf Beet. — There is no great
difference worth mentioning between this variety and Nutting's
Beet, except that the foliage is larger, well crimped, and turned
backwards ; it has the same root and is used sometimes for border-
ing. This variety, like the preceding one, produces small roots,

Whyte's Black Beet'

Nutting's Dwarf Red Beet

but to make some amends for this, they can be grown very close
together. Both varieties are moderately early.

Many other English varieties resemble the Dwarf Red and
Dell's Crimson, without being exactly like either of these kinds.
Of these we will only mention Bailey's Fine Red, Sang's Dwarf
Crimson, and the Saint Osyth Beet. The two following varieties
are to be commended : Omega Dwarf-toppedt a medium-sized,
handsomely shaped Beet, with delicately sweet, rich crimson flesh ;
and Nonpareil Dwarf Green-top, a very dwarf kind, with small,
well-formed, scarlet-fleshed roots.

Dracaena-leaved Beet. — A very pretty and peculiar variety,
with a slender lengthy root, almost the same shape as Nutting's
Beet, but smaller ; it differs from that by its narrower, longer,

io8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

more numerous leaves, which are generally curved in the shape
of a sickle, the top forming a very elegant rounded nosegay,
which at first might be mistaken for the foliage of a Dracama
or a Croton. While thus ornamental, it is not without merit as
a vegetable.

Covent Garden Red Beet. — A very handsome variety,
thicker and smoother than the preceding sorts. The root is
long ovoid rather than spindle-shaped, smooth and entirely
underground ; the flesh a deep blood-red, the foliage rather
light, tinged purple turning to very dark brown in the
autumn.

The varieties of the Covent Garden Beet are Dewar's Dwarf

Dell's Dark Crimson Dwarf Beet.

Dracaena-leaved Beet.

Red, DrummoncCs Nonsuch, and Ferry s Half -long and Half -long
Blood Beet, though perhaps a shade shorter ; but the difference is
so trifling as to be negligible.

Black Queen Beet. — In some respects this new variety re-
sembles the Pear-shaped Strasbourg Beet, with smaller, compacter
leaves, more proportionate to the size of the root. The root is
conical in shape, both above and below ground, but more tapering
at the base than the Strasbourg. The flesh is almost black ; the
leaves are also deep coloured. They are of fair size, slightly
crimped, short and almost round, and at no time absolutely green,
which is seldom the case with black-rooted Beets, even such varieties
as have the darkest leaves in the autumn. The Black Queen Beet

RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET

109

may be used, like the Dell's Beet or the Dracaena-leaved Beet, for
bordering or for dark-coloured beds.

Strasbourg Pear-shaped, Non Plus Ultra, or Intermediate
Dark Beet. — An intermediate variety, very deeply sunk in the soil.
Skin and flesh of an extremely deep red, the leaves and leaf-stalks
almost black. This is one of the deepest coloured of the kitchen-
garden varieties. It is not a very productive kind, and the leaves
and leaf-stalks are rather large in proportion to the size of the root,

Covent Garden Red Beet.

Black Queen Beet

which, unlike that of the Dwarf Red variety, when pulled, belies
the promise given by the foliage.

Trevise Early Salad Beet, or Turin Red Spring Beet— A
very pretty Salad Beet, intermediate between the half-long and the
round or flattened varieties. Its top-shaped form proclaims its
relationship with the long-rooted sorts. It is remarkable for its
light foliage and slender leaf-stalks. No other Salad Beet, not
even Nutting's Beet, produces so few leaves.

Dewing's Early Blood-red Beet.— A handsome variety of
American origin, it comes between the Early Blood-red Turnip
Beet and the Eclipse Beet, mentioned below. The root is thick,
smooth, rounded above the ground, but slightly conical and

no

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

top-shaped below. The flesh is good in colour, but not very
dark. The leaves are of no great size, rather light, green
tinged with red during summer, but a more uniform brown-red
colour towards autumn, and are much like those of the Egyptian
Beet.*

The Arlington Favourite is a good American variety of the
Dewing. It is high coloured and scant in leaf, and differs very
little from the original.

Eclipse Turnip Beet. — May be described as a spherical
Egyptian Beet. Like the latter, it is very early, smooth, and has a
very scant foliage, but it is distinguished from it by its globular root,
which, when of the same diameter, is about twice as productive,
and has, moreover, the advantage of attaining a good size without

Strasbourg Pear-shaped
Beet (I natural size).

Trevise Red Flat Beet.

Dewing's Blood-red
Turnip Beet.

spoiling its shape. Originated in America, it is undoubtedly the
best Salad Beet yet received from that country.

Allied to this variety is the Model Beet, an English Beet with
leaves much reduced in size and highly coloured flesh.

The Crimson Globe Beet, also an English variety and of
recent introduction, possesses characteristics very similar to those
of the Eclipse Beet. The root is clean, very smooth, rather long
than broad, with pinched extremities and well-coloured flesh — that
is to say, deep violet slightly zoned, tender and saccharine; the
foliage scant, and in colour brown-red.

Early Blood Red Turnip-rooted Beet. — An early variety, with
a round and half-flattened root, scarcely half buried in the soil ;
skin dark violet-red ; flesh a fine red ; leaves rather large, green,
broadly marbled and veined with brown-red. To this variety may
be referred, as almost identical with it, the kinds named Flat
* A Non-bleeding Beet, see p. 759.

RED-FLESHED GARDEN BEET III

Blackish Red, Black-leaved Round Red, and the English variety
Early Blood-red.

The American varieties, Edmand's Early Turnip, Bastian's
Blood Turnip, and Early Blood Turnip Beet, come very near to
this, even as regards earliness and colour.

Detroit Dark Red Turnip Beet. — One of the Beets the most
cultivated in the United States, it appears to be a selection of the
Early Blood-red Turnip Beet. It has a round, somewhat ovoid
root, very smooth, and a fine deep blood-red colour. The flesh
is bright red, tender and good in quality ; the foliage very erect,
scant, and in colour green with deep red veinings.

Egyptian Dark Red Turnip-rooted Beet— An exceedingly
early variety, and certainly the best of the early kitchen-garden

Eclipse Turnip Beet. Early Blood-red Turnip-rooted Beet.

kinds. Roots rounded and flattened, especially underneath, almost
entirely underground, and resting on the surface (to which it is held
down by a rather slender tap-root), very symmetrical in shape until
it has grown larger than the fist, when it frequently becomes
irregular or sinuated in form as it increases in size. Skin very
smooth, violet or slaty red ; flesh dark blood colour ; leaves slight,
brown-red, more or less mixed with green; leaf-stalks long and
slender, and bright red. When sown in the open air under favour-
able conditions, the roots of this variety may be pulled for table use
in June, when they are about as big as a small orange, their quality
being then at its best. If sown on a hot-bed, they may be pulled
still earlier. Like the Dwarf Red variety, the roots of this kind
also may be grown very close together.

Early Flat Bassano Beet. — A stout-growing, broad, flat variety,
with numerous but rather slender green leaves ; leaf-stalks tinged

112 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

with red ; skin of the root grayish red, especially the part above-
ground ; flesh in bands or zones of white and rose, firm, sugary,
delicate, and highly esteemed in some countries. This is a mode-
rately early and very productive kind.

The following varieties deserve to be mentioned as very
distinct : —

The Cheltenham Green-top Beet. — An English variety, with
very long, clean, regularly tapering root. A very deep-rooting
variety; it offers even in a more marked degree than the Rough-
skinned Beet a contrast between the colour of the foliage, which is
pale green, and that of the root, which is a very intense red.

Crosby's Egyptian Beet. — A variety much esteemed in the
United States ; the only similarity it bears to the Extra Early
Egyptian Beet is in its great earliness. It has a thicker and

Egyptian Dark Red Turnip-rooted Beet Early Flat Bassano Beet.

(^ natural size).

altogether larger, but less highly coloured, root than its Extra
Early namesake, being a distinct vermilion. It is scant in leaf,
and is one of the earliest varieties.

Lentz Beet. — Also of American origin, and very early. The
root is top-shaped, and the flesh red with lighter coloured zones.
The foliage is very short and green, tinged with brown.

Short's Pine-apple Beet, Pine-apple Dwarf Red, or Hender-
son's Pine-apple Beet. — A compact-growing kind, with a rather
short root, which is tap-rooted, and about 2 or 3 in. in diameter ;
flesh very dark in colour ; leaves stiff and spreading, red with
orange-coloured stalks.

Victoria Beet. — A variety of German origin, with an inter-
mediate root of a deep red colour, less remarkable for its value as
a vegetable than for the singular metallic appearance of its leaves,
and quite as much grown for ornamental as it is for kitchen-garden
purposes.

YELLOW-FLESHED GARDEN BEET

II. YELLOW-FLESHED VARIETIES

Long Yellow, or Orange, Beet. — This variety is almost as
much grown in the fields as in the kitchen-
garden, and is the kind which is principally
cultivated by the cowkeepers of P»ris and
its vicinity, on account of its highly
reputed nutritious and milk -producing
qualities. Root long, almost cylindrical,
about half of it above-ground ; leaves erect,
stout, green, with yellow stalks ; skin of
root orange-yellow ; flesh golden-yellow,
marked with zones more or less pale, and
sometimes nearly white. It is the most
productive and one of the best Yellow-
fleshed kinds.

Yellow, or Orange, Turnip Beet.— Root
slightly top-shaped, with a stout tap-root ;
skin orange-yellow ; flesh bright yellow, zoned
with pale yellow or white; leaves rather short
and broad, crimped,
undulated, with
yellow ribs and
stalks. A very
sugary and fine-
flavoured variety,
the root, when well
boiled, becoming
tinged with orange.
It is one of the best
additions which of
late years has been
made to the list
Long Yellow, or °f kitchen -garden YelloWf or OraxngC) Tumip

Orange, Beet. • plants. Beet

BORAGE
Borago officinalis, L. BoraginaccG.

French, Bourrache officinale. German, Borretsch. Flemish^ Bernagie. Italian,
Boragine. Spanish, Borraja. Portuguese, Borragem.

Native of Europe and North Africa. — Annual. — Stems 12 to
1 8 in. high, hollow, bristly, with pointed hairs ; leaves oval, rough,
and haired like the stems ; flowers in a scorpioid cyme, about I in.
broad, of a fine blue colour in the common variety, sometimes
violet-red or white ; seeds rather large, gray-brown, oblong, slightly

8

114

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

curved, streaked, and marked with a projecting midrib or ridge.

Their germinating power continues for eight years.

CULTURE AND USE.—
This plant can be grown
without trouble, by sowing
the seed in any corner of
the garden at any time
from spring to the end of
autumn. It will come into
flower in a few months. In
the London market-gardens
it is grown in temporary
frames out of doors for
supply during late autumn
and winter ; for spring use,
seedlings are raised in heat
and transplanted into glass-
covered frames, which can
be easily removed when the

weather is sufficiently mild
Borage (t natural „«, to admjt Q{ ^ ^^ ^.^

exposed without injury. Throughout the summer and autumn it is
as easily grown out of doors as any common annual or weed, yet in
remote country districts we have seen people much puzzled to find
a sample when they required it ! It is so vigorous and hardy that
there need be no difficulty in country places in naturalising it on
any half-waste place, chalk bank, steep slope, or copse ; a handful
might be found in such a place in case its culture had been forgotten
in the garden. It is one of the pretty true blue flowers, and almost
worth growing in certain places for its beauty. It is naturalised in
various counties in England, but is not a true native plant, belong-
ing naturally to the shores of the Mediterranean, where so many
of our old garden plants are native. It is sold chiefly to hotel-
keepers for making claret-cup. The flowers are used for garnishing
salads, but the plant is grown for the manufacture of cordials.

BROCCOLI.— See after Cauliflower
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— See after Cabbage

BUCK'S-HORN or HARTS-HORN PLANTAIN, or STAR
OF THE EARTH

Plantago Coronopus, L. Plantaginece.

French^ Corne-de-cerf, Pied-de-corbeau. German, Hirschhorn-Salat. Flemish,
Veversblad, Hertshoorn. Italian, Corno di cervo, Coronopo, Erba Stella. Spanish^
Estrellamar, Cuerno de ciervo.

Native of Europe. — Annual. — Leaves numerous, long, narrow',,
deeply lobed, bearing a few long hairs and forming a very regular

BUCK'S-HORN OR HARTS-HORN PLANTAIN 115

rosette close to the ground ; stems each surmounted by a spike of
minute yellow flowers, which are succeeded by small membranous
capsules rilled with very small, egg-shaped light brown seeds.

Their germinating power con-
tinues for four years.

CULTURE. — The seed is
sown, where the crop is to
grow, either in spring or
autumn ; in either case, the
ground is cleared off at the
end of summer. The plants
require no attention, except
whatever weeding is needed
to keep the ground clean, in
addition to plentiful water-
ings, without which the
leaves soon become hard
and leathery. As the plant
yields abun darkly, the sow-
ings are usually made on a

Buck's-horn or Hart's-horn Plantain, or Star limited scale

of the Earth (J natural size; separate USES — The VOUn<* leaves

leaves, k natural size). UMA

are used for mixing in salads.

Very rarely cultivated in England. It is a widely distributed and
common native plant in sandy and stony places, especially near
the sea.

EDIBLE BURDOCK, or GOBO

Lappa edulis, Hort. Compost fee.

French, Bardane geante. Japatiese, Gobo.

Native of Japan. — Biennial — Radical leaves very large, heart-
shaped, somewhat resembling those of the Patience Dock, but not
so much elongated ; stem red, very branching ; flowers violet-red,
in heads bearing hooked scales like those of the Common Burdock ;
roots of the kind known as tap-roots, cylindrical, rather fleshy and
tender when they are young ; seeds oblong, grayish, with a hard
covering, resembling that of the Artichoke. Their germinating
power lasts for five years.

It is doubtful whether this plant is specifically distinct from the
Common Burdock (Arctium Lappa), a very common weed in all parts
of Europe. It is certainly larger in all its parts, but this might be
the result of cultivation, as it has long been grown in Japan in
exactly the same manner as Salsafy and Scorzonera arc with us.

USES.— The roots, which grow from i ft. to 16 in. long, are
boiled and served up in various ways. The plant was introduced

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

into Europe from Japan by the traveller Von Siebold, who says
that it succeeded well in his garden at Leyden. In order to have
the root tender and agreeable to the taste, it should be used when
it is two and a half or three months grown. If it is left until it is
fully grown, it branches and becomes hard and almost woody, so
that it is not surprising that when sent to table in that state, it has
often been pronounced detestably bad, whereas if eaten when
young, as it is by the Japanese, although it cannot be termed

delicious, it is certainly not a bad
vegetable.

Almost all hardy biennial plants
with fleshy roots should be experi-
mented on with the view of con-
verting them into kitchen-garden
vegetables, and many, perhaps,
might be available for this purpose
under the condition of their roots
being not too fibrous, nor possess-
ing any disagreeable flavour which
cooking would not remove. The
Wild Carrot and the Wild Beet
are not superior in quality to the
Burdock, and the second of these
plants certainly has a more dis-
agreeable flavour, and yet continued
cultivation and persevering selection
have converted these two plants into
Edible Burdock, or Go'bo (f natural size). excellentvegetables,producing roots

which are large, tender, and well

tasted, at least when they are cooked, and quite different from what
they are in the wild state. There is no reason, then, why the Burdock
should not be a good table vegetable, if the plant appears to be
worth the trouble. It is hardy, vigorous, and of rapid growth ; its
roots are long and naturally fleshy, and consequently can be
increased in size and made tender by judicious cultivation. At the
present moment, in the condition in which we now have the plant, a
bed of it will yield as heavy a crop as a bed of Salsafy, and in half
or one-third of the time. As a vegetable it is deserving of serious
consideration.

SALAD BURNET

Poterium Sanguisorba, L. Rosace 'ce.

French, Pimprenelle petite. German, Garten-Pimpinelle. Flemish and Dutch, Pimpernel.
Italian, Pimpinella. Spanish, Pimpinela. Portuguese, Pimpinella.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Radical leaves, pinnate, with an
odd leaflet; leaflets oval-rounded, very much toothed; stems usually

SALAD BURNET

very erect, 16 in. to 2 ft. high, angular, branching, and ending in
spikes of female flowers, the flower at the base being male or
hermaphrodite ; seeds oval, four-angled, with more or less pro-
minent ridges on the angles,
and reticulated on the sides
Their germinating power
lasts for three years. The
Salad Burnet is an exceed-
ingly hardy and long-lived
plant, and grows wild
through the greater part of
France.

CULTURE. — The seed is
sown in spring or at the
end of summer, usually in
drills 10 to 12 in. apart. It
is often grown as an edging
to beds of other vegetables,
and may also be sown in
beds by itself. The plants
do not require any attention.
The leaves are cut for use with a knife or sickle, and successional
cuttings are made so as to have a constant supply of fresh young
leaves. Leaves are produced in greater abundance and for a longer
time if the plants are not allowed to flower.

USES. — The young, tender leaves are used as salad ; they have
a peculiar flavour, resembling that of the Green Cucumber.

Garden Burnet.

CABBAGE

Brassica oleracea, L. Cruciferce*

French, Chou cultive. German, Kohl, Kraut. Flemish and Dut<-k, Kool. Danish, Kaal.
Italian, Cavolo. Spanish, Col. Portuguese, Couve.

Cabbage, a plant which is indigenous to Europe and Western
Asia, is one of the vegetables which have been cultivated from the
earliest times. The ancients were well acquainted with it, and
certainly possessed several varieties of the head-forming kinds.
The great antiquity of its culture may be inferred from the
immense numbers of varieties which are now in existence, and
from the very important modifications which have been produced
in the characteristics of the original or parent plant

The Wild Cabbage, such as it still exists on the coasts of
England and France, is a perennial plant with broad, lobed,
undulated, thick, smooth leaves, covered with a glaucous bloom.

n8 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The stem attains a height of from nearly 2j to over 3 ft., and
bears at the top a spike of yellow, or sometimes white, flowers.
All the cultivated varieties present the same characters in their
inflorescence, but, up to the time of flowering, they exhibit most
marked differences from each other and from the original wild
plant. In most of the Cabbages, it is chiefly the leaves that are
developed by cultivation ; these, for the most part, become
imbricated or overlap one another closely, so as to form a more
or less compact head, the heart or interior of which is composed
of the central undeveloped shoot and the younger leaves next
it. The shape of the head is spherical, sometimes flattened,
sometimes conical. All the varieties which form heads in this
way are known by the general name of Cabbages (Choux pommes),
while other kinds with large branching leaves, which never form
heads, are distinguished by the name of Borecole or Kale
(Choux verts).

In some kinds, the flower-stems have been so modified by
culture as to become transformed into a thick, fleshy, tender mass,
the growth and enlargement of which are produced at the expense
of the flowers, which are absorbed and rendered abortive. Such are
the Broccolis and Cauliflowers. In other kinds, the leaves retain
their ordinary dimensions, while the stem, or the principal root, has
been brought by cultivation to assume the shape of a large ball or
Turnip, as in the case of the plants known as Kohl-Rabi (Choux-
raves} and Turnip-rooted Cabbage or Swedish Turnip (Choux-
navets). And, lastly, there are varieties in which cultivation and
selection have produced modifications in the ribs of the leaves (as
in the Couve Tronchuda), or in the axillary shoots (as in Brussels
Sprouts), or in several organs together (as in the Marrow Kales
and the Neapolitan Curled Kale). We make no mention here of
the Colza, another variety, grown exclusively for the sake of its
seeds, from which an oil is obtained, and which, therefore, is
to be classed amongst the plants which are grown for economic
or manufacturing purposes.

CULTURE. — The different kinds of Cabbages vary so much in
constitution and treatment that it is impossible to lay down precise
rules for the cultivation even of each entire class or section. We
shall, therefore, when describing each variety, give instructions as
to the proper times for sowing and planting it, merely mentioning
here a few particulars which are applicable to the cultivation of
almost all kinds of Cabbages. Further information as to cultivation
will be found under the head of Early Cabbages, and also under the
Drumhead varieties.

A cool moist climate seems to be the most suitable of all for the
culture of Cabbages, which generally grow to greater perfection in
districts near the sea-coast than they do in either low-lying or

CABBAGE

119

elevated inland parts of the country. Heat and drought are
injurious to them, while they grow well in moist, foggy weather,
even when somewhat cold. They like a clayey, rather stiff soil,
rich in manure and decayed organic matter ; they do not seem to
mind a little sourness in the soil, and grow well in ground that has
been newly broken up. In the kitchen-garden, Cabbages should
occupy the coolest and moistest positions, except the early spring
kinds, which require a warm and sheltered aspect ; the ground
should be deeply dug and plentifully manured, and always kept
clean and free from weeds. The plants must be watered from
time to time during the summer, and care be taken to prevent
them from being overrun by the caterpillars of the white
Cabbage butterfly, which, if not attended to, will damage them
severely.

SOWING AND PLANTING.*— The
most important sowings of Cabbage
are those which are required to form
a supply through the spring and
early summer months. These sow-
ings should consist of several
varieties that succeed each other
in coming into use. However, very
early kinds should not be sown too
early in the summer, as there is a
possibility of their running to seed
in dry weather. From the middle
of July to the middle of August
is the time usually chosen for sow-
ing; but much will depend upon
the season, soil, and locality. The
beginning of August will in most
places be found to be the best.
Plants from seeds sown at that time
are generally ready to plant out by
the end of September or beginning
of October, and they have then
ample time to get established before
the winter sets in. For autumn
supply a sowing should be made
from the middle of March to the
beginning of April, and planted out
in June and July — they then come
into use in August and September ;
and if a second and rather larger
sowing be made in the last week
in April, and planted out in July
and August, they will come into
use from October to December ; and

a small sowing of a dwarf kind
that hearts quickly, sown in May,
will form nice little heads for use
in January, which, with the Greens
produced from the stumps of those
that have been cut, will last until
the spring Cabbage comes in. Cab-
bage plants intended to stand the
winter are best planted with a
crowbar in firm undug ground, such
as has recently carried a crop of
Onions, or other surface -rooting
plants that have not impoverished
the ground too much. The ground
must, of course, have been well
manured for the crop previous to
Cabbage, or good results cannot be
expected. A firm, stiff, rich soil is
best for Cabbages ; for if grown in
loose, light soil, they do not " heart "
so well, neither is the quality so
good. Cabbage seed should at all
times be sown on light rich land,
and the plants should not be allowed
to overcrowd each other before they
are put out, but as soon as large
enough to handle be pricked out
6 or 8 in. apart, or be thinned out,
and the remainder transferred to
their final positions as soon as they
are sufficiently large. The distance
fro plant them apart depends upon
the variety grown; but 2 ft. between
the rows, and from 15 to 18 in. from

* See also p. 759.

I2O

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

plant to plant in the rows, will
generally be found sufficient space
if the ground be in good heart.

CUTTING.*— A little more atten-
tion might be paid to this than
is generally the case ; for although
Cauliflowers and Brussels Sprouts
cannot always be had just when
wanted, tender Cabbage may be
had with very little management.
Supposing we plant Cabbages in
autumn, they will come into use
tender towards the beginning of
summer ; but if the household be
generally not able to use them as
fast as they grow, the heads are
allowed to swell until they burst,
or go to seed or rot, and eventually
become quite useless for cooking
purposes. In gardens from which
large houses have to be supplied,
Cabbages are generally wanted as
soon as they are ready, and a number
of heads are cut daily ; but the
experienced gardener does not cut
the head off at the surface of the
soil, but just at the neck, leaving
a few of the bottom leaves. Con-
sequently, before the quarter has
been cut over the first-cut plants
have made another break, and be-
come furnished with a whole cluster
of young succulent heads, which
heart immediately, and are fit to
cut before the first heads are quite
finished. The plants will even
break and heart a third time, and
in this way a plot of Cabbage may
be made to afford a supply nearly
all the year round The vigour,
free growth, and tenderness of the
heads will be greatly promoted by
frequent stirrings of the soil between
the rows, and mulching with any
loose material, such as short Grass
or leaves, at command. Cut your
Cabbages, therefore, even if you
have to give them away to your
neighbours, before the heads get
over-ripe and useless, and you will

* See

have a continuance of young and
tender heads, which are greatly to
be preferred to those which are
large, white, and hard.

The Cabbage is one of the most
important of green vegetables for
market-garden culture, and although
not considered by many so profitable
on account of its gross-feeding char-
acter, it comes into use when there
is little else to send to market, and
often realises high prices. In spring
large areas of Cabbages may be seen
about Wandsworth, Fulham, Gun-
nersbury, and, in fact, all round the
suburbs of London. The Cabbages
sent to market in April, May, and
June are the produce of seed sown
in July, and the plants are put out
in September or early in October.
Succession crops are sown in spring
as soon as the weather is favourable.
If sown too soon, as is sometimes
done, the young leaves get injured
by frosts, especially if these occur
immediately after a period of mild
weather.

The Enfield Market Cabbage is
that which is principally used in the
market gardens about London. It
is one of the oldest in cultivation,
and one of the best, and for this
reason the growers generally save
their own seed, and take great care
that their plants of it are not crossed
with other sorts. The newer
variety, Early Paris Market Cab-
bage, could easily take the place of
the Enfield Market Cabbage, and
with advantage for all purposes.
The sowing for the principle crop
of these Cabbages is generally made
about the end of July and up to the
middle of August, on poor ground
if possible, as in that case the plants
come up stocky and hardy, and
stand the winter well ; whereas, if
made on rich ground, a soft rank
growth is produced, which is much
more easily injured. This sowing
also p. 760.

CABBAGE

121

is, as a rule, made in 4 ft. wide beds
—a width found to be convenient
for weeding and hoeing amongst
the plants. When sufficiently strong
to be transplanted, they are planted
on ground cleared of Onions or
Potatoes, and a second batch is
planted on land cleared of Celery,
French Beans, or Vegetable Mar-
rows. Every empty space, under
fruit trees or elsewhere, is planted
with Cabbages. In planting, the
ground is lined off into rows, 30 in.
apart, and in these the plants are
put 15 in. asunder. Between every
two rows first planted another is
then put in with less care, thus
making the plants stand 15 in. apart
each way. Early in spring the alter-
nate lines of plants, and also every
other plant in the lines or rows left,
are lifted and sold as Coleworts.
This allows the permanent crop
plenty of room to come to maturity.
With a view to subsequent planta-
tions, which are made all through
the winter wherever ground is
vacant, the young plants in seed-
beds are removed and pricked out
into others a little farther apart,
in order to keep them in good
condition for planting out as long as
possible. In this way, indeed, many
of the plants are kept till spring,
when they are transplanted to suc-
ceed those placed out in autumn.
They will thus come in before the
produce of the spring sowings, made
late in February or early in March,
to furnish Cabbages from June to
August. The plants from this sow-

ing are put out in rows 2 or 2j ft.
apart, and in the intervening spaces
are put lines of Lettuces, a plant of
which is also set between every
Cabbage in the row In May men
may be often noticed busily engaged
in tying up early Cabbages in the
market gardens at Fulham and else-
where. The operation is simple-
just, in fact, that adopted in the
case of Cos Lettuces. The succulent
outer leaves are folded carefully
around the heart or centre of the
plant, and the whole is bound firmly
with a withy or a piece of bast.
There are several good reasons for
this practice. The centre being
protected from the weather, the
Cabbages heart sooner than they
otherwise would do, and they are
more easily handled in gathering
and packing for market. Early
Cabbages, the leaves of which are
so brittle, would lose half their value
if some precaution of this kind were
not taken to keep them from being
broken by loading and unloading
them.

Red Cabbages are sown in March,
but the produce of the July sowing
is generally considered better than
that of spring. The plants are put
out in rows from 3^ to 4 ft. apart,
and the plants stand about 3 ft.
asunder in the rows. As this crop
stands until the heads are large and
solid, a piece of rich land is de-
voted to it, and intercropped with
Potatoes, ordinary Cabbages, Let-
tuces, French Beans, or other vege-
tables of that kind.

The different sections of Cabbages differ perceptibly from one
another in the size of the seed, the Borecoles and Kohl-Rabi pro-
ducing the largest seed ; next to these, the ordinary Round-headed
varieties and the Turnip-rooted Cabbage or Swedish Turnip ; and,
lastly, the Cauliflowers and Broccolis, which have the smallest seed
of all.

USES. — The leaves of the common headed varieties and of the

122 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Borecoles are cooked in various ways, or used in salads, as in
America, or fermented so as to form what is termed Sauer-kraut.
The heads of the Cauliflowers and Broccolis, the stems of the Kohl-
Rabi, the roots of the Turnip-rooted and the Swedish Turnip, and
the small heads which grow along the stems of the Brussels Sprouts
are most usually eaten boiled, although they are also well treated
in other ways by foreign cooks. The very commonness and cheap-
ness of Cabbages leads to the ignoring of their existence on the
part of many superior persons. It is a great mistake, as they are
by far the most precious vegetables we have, eaten young, in the
right season, and well cooked. Though forms of the same wild
plant, the variety of flavours is remarkable. It is mot more remark-
able, however, than the way the common cook usually spoils this
vegetable. In the hotels and restaurants it is usually an un-
appetising mess, heavily charged with soda. The best cookery of
Cabbages may frequently be observed among cottagers and ser-
vants brought up in country cottages. One result of the neglect of
Cabbage on the part of the affluent is that they miss some of the
most delicate and wholesome vegetables we have, in various little-
known forms of this family, which will be described farther on in
this book. This vegetable in its wondrous variety is better fitted
for our country than for any other, and comes to greatest per-
fection in it. To despise it and neglect it is a mistake and a loss.
Those possessing good gardens would do well to grow and use
the more delicately flavoured forms and those best suited to
their localities, and thus lead the poor to a fuller knowledge of
things so easy for all to grow, and which yield so abundantly.
Under the best conditions, not a few of them are as good as any
vegetable that is grown, and, if rare, they would be sought as
delicacies.

This question of cooking is undoubtedly of paramount importance, and
must necessarily have an immense influence upon the use of many other-
wise excellent vegetables, of which Cabbage is a typical example. It may,
therefore, not be out of place here to give a few indications as to the way
Cabbage is usually cooked and used in France, ist. As a soup (soupeaux
choux).—rT}\Q head of a Cabbage or of a Savoy is freed of its outer leaves,
cut in two or four, washed and placed in cold salted water on the fire,
adding a few Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes, and a fair-sized piece of bacon or
ham. Let boil slowly at least three hours. 2nd. As a vegetable. — The
head is cut into small pieces, washed, put in boiling salted water on the
fire, and cooked for half an hour, then placed in a strainer. Cook
sausages or lean bacon cut in small pieces, and when done add to the
Cabbage, and let all slowly simmer together until the time for serving.
3rd. As a garnishing. — Take only the white heart of some Cabbages, cook
for half an hour as above, strain, mince and place in a stewpan with butter
and a little broth, and let simmer slowly until time for serving. *

* Cabbages Clubbing, see p. 776.

THE COMMON CABBAGE 123

THE COMMON CABBAGE

Brassica oleracea capitata, D.C.

French, Chou cabus, C. pomme. German, Kopfkohl, Kraut. Flemish, Kabuiscool.
Dutch, Slutkool. Danish, Hoved kaal. Italian, Cavolo cappuccio. Spanish,
Col repollo. Portuguese, Couve repolho.

This section is usually divided into two classes — viz. the
Smooth-leaved and the Curled-leaved or Milan (Savoy) kinds. In
describing the varieties of both classes, we shall do so, as far as
possible, in the order of their respective degrees of earliness, at the
same time duly noting the affinities of the different kinds.

Early York Cabbage. — We commence our descriptions of
Cabbages with this variety, because, although it is not the earliest
of all, it is one of the best known and most generally cultivated of
early kinds, and it will be easier to characterise the analogous
varieties by comparing them with it. The head is an oval or

Eirly Dwarf York Cabbage. Large York Cabbage (^ natural size).

reversed-cone shape, oblong, nearly twice as long as broad, small,
and fairly compact. Leaves dark green, with a slight bluish,
glaucous, or gray tinge on the under-side, the outer ones of those
which form the head covering the others like a hood ; those on the
very outside, which do not help to form the head, are few in number,
and bent back in the contrary direction, often having the edges
turned towards the midrib on the back, and very smooth ; veins
rather broad, of a greenish white ; stem slender, and about the
same length as the head.

The Superfine Early is a sub-variety of the Early York, from
which it hardly differs in appearance, with the exception of being
dwarfer and about a week earlier.

Large York Cabbage. — Larger in all its parts than the pre-
ceding kind, this variety has the head thicker and stouter in
proportion to its length, the transverse diameter being about two-
thirds of the length. The outer leaves are stiffer, firmer, and

124 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

broader, and usually not so bluish in tint ; the stem also is shorter
in proportion. This is an excellent early kind, very productive, and
of good quality. The only fault, perhaps, which it has is that it
takes up rather too much ground for the size of the head, in con-
sequence of the large outside leaves spreading so much in the
horizontal direction.

Sugar-loaf Cabbage. — Head very long like a reversed sugar-
loaf in shape, regularly oblong, and at least twice as long as broad,
very like a Cos Lettuce in form, whence its French name of Chou
Chicon ; leaves pale or light green on the upper surface and whitish
green underneath, long spoon-shape, and covering each other in a
remarkable manner with their hood-shaped tops to form the head ;
outer leaves erect, like those of a Cos Lettuce ; stem comparatively
short, being not more than a third or half the length of the head.
This variety is very distinct and productive, and is almost as early

Sugar-loaf Cabbsge Early Ox-heart Cabbage

(T^ natural size). (T^ natural size).

as the preceding kind. Like the two foregoing kinds, it answers as
well for sowing in autumn as in spring, and, growing tall and
slender, it does not occupy much ground relatively to the size of
its head. It is also slow in running to seed — a good quality for
which it deserves to be specially mentioned. It is somewhat
singular that, although a very old variety and well known in
every country in Europe, it does not appear to be extensively
grown anywhere.

Early Ox-heart Cabbage.— The shape of the head of this
variety is well expressed by its name, and is that of a short, thick-
set, blunt-pointed cone, the length of which does not exceed the
breadth by more than one-fourth or one-fifth. The outer leaves
are broad and nearly round, and less glaucous than those of the
York Cabbages ; those which form the head are rather wrapped
round each other than hood-shaped. The stem is rather short,
being shorter than the head, which begins to form very early, and

THE COMMON CABBAGE

125

is fit to cut about the same time as the Early York. The Ox-heart
Cabbage may be considered the type of a rather numerous class, to
which the following varieties belong : —

Express Cabbage. — An early, short-stemmed variety, which
begins to head with the fifth or sixth leaf. An £tampes Cabbage

Express Extra Early Cabbage.

Early Etampes Cabbage.

on a reduced scale, it has the chief characteristics of that variety
with greater earliness. Like the Early Ox-heart and the Early
York Cabbage, it may be planted very close.*

Early Etampes Cabbage. — From several comparative trials
which we have made, this variety seems to be, after the preceding
one, the earliest of all
the headed Cabbages. In
most points it resembles
the Early Ox-heart, but
it has a longer and more
conical head, and is also
a somewhat bulkier plant.
It was raised by M.
Bonnemain, Secretary of
the Etampes Horticul-
tural Society, and is
well adapted for spring
culture.

Jersey Wakefieid
Cabbage. — This variety
is well distinguished from
the other forms of Ox-
heart Cabbages by the
yellow tint and very stiff
texture of its leaves, and

.,. , 111 Jersey Wakefieid Cabbage.

it has a longer stalk than

any of the Ox-heart Cabbages properly so called. The outer leaves
* Enfield Market, see p. 761. New Varieties, see p. 762.

126 THE VEGETABLE .GARDEN

are pale glaucous green, rounded in shape, very faintly undulated at
the edges, and remarkably firm and stiff ; those which immediately
surround the head are often hollowed like a spoon. The head
itself, a very pale green, is short, blunt, and conical, and often
tinged with red on the side exposed to the sun. This is an early
and productive variety, and the head keeps firm for a considerable
length of time — an important advantage when it is grown as a
field crop.

Early Paris Market Cabbage (C/iou Cceur-de-bceuf May en). —
An early variety ; raised by the Paris f market gardeners. The
head is not quite so high as that of the Etampes Cabbage, but is
rounder and broader at the base. The head develops very rapidly
as soon as it has begun to form, yielding the heaviest crop in the
shortest time. An excellent substitute for the Enfield Market
Cabbage, to which it is altogether superior.

Early Paris Market Cabbage. Prince's Nonpareil Cabbage.

The Chou Prefin de Boulogne is a sub-variety of the Ox-heart,
remarkable for its earliness, and easily distinguished by its light
colour and the broadness of the ribs, which spread like a fan
over the whole width of the leaf. The Early Louviers Cabbage,
another sub-variety of the Ox-heart, very much resembles the
Etampes Cabbage, but it is not so early, and has a somewhat
shorter head. The Chou Prompt de Saint-Malo, which is a little
larger, and has broader leaves and a rather shorter and broader
head than the foregoing kinds, has, like them, been advantageously
superseded by the Very Early Etampes variety.

Prince's Nonpareil or Barnes' Early Dwarf Cabbage.— Inter-
mediate between the Ox-heart and the Tourlaville varieties comes
one which is very extensively grown in England under the name of
" Nonpareil." This is an early kind, with a rather long but blunt
conical head, and leaves dark green on the upper surface, and very
coarsely crimped. It differs from the Tourlaville variety in not
having the leaf-stalk bare at the base, nor the leaves so much

THE COMMON CABBAGE

127

twisted in shape. It is a good early variety, requiring about the
same time to come to perfection as the Large York.

The variety named Enfield Market, of which the Nonpareil
appears to be a good sub-variety, is not quite so early, and may be
ranked among the Ox-heart varieties.

Tourlaville Early Cabbage. — The head of this variety is rather
long and pointed, and is formed by the leaves being wrapped upon
each other in such a manner that some of them contribute only
their lower part to its formation, while they stand clear of it in the
upper part. Leaves large and broad, very dark green, and with
ribs very thick and round near the stem, curving abruptly so as to
press the leaves close to the head. This is a very distinct, early,

Tourlaville Early Cabbage
(•j^ natural size).

Large Ox-heart Cabbage.

and vigorous variety, and is sent to Paris in large quantities at the
close of the winter from the neighbourhood of Cherbourg, where it
is extensively grown. When cultivated outside of its native district,
it does not appear to possess any marked superiority over the
ordinary Ox-heart kinds, and, besides, it is rather variable in its
leaves, which are sometimes smooth and sometimes crimped.

Large Ox-heart Cabbage. — A vigorous and productive kind,
heading very soon, coming in a fortnight or three weeks later
than the Early Ox-heart, but growing three or four times the size
of that variety. Outer leaves large, rounded, rather thick, and
darker in colour above than underneath ; head large, very obtusely
conical, and somewhat gray-green ; stem rather short, seldom more
than two-thirds of the length of the head. This is a good variety
for market-garden culture on a large scale — approaching field
culture. It is hardy enough to require but little attention when
growing, and when the heads are formed they maintain their
compactness longer than the early varieties without bursting or
losing shape too speedily.

128 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Lingreville Cabbage. — Stem rather short ; leaves large, pale,
almost light green, moderately undulated and crimped, soon
forming a head of an oblong and almost pointed shape, by
twisting themselves over one another rather than taking the
ordinary hood or cap form. In appearance and size, this variety
is almost intermediate between the Tourlaville and the Early
Bacalan varieties, and, as in those two kinds, the formation of the
head is commenced by leaves which are at some distance from
each other on the stem. In the axils of these lower leaves, shoots
sometimes grow which form small heads themselves about as large
as an apple or an orange. The variety which produces these
secondary heads is known in Normandy by the name of Chou
Grappe or Chou Grappu.

Early Bacalan Cabbage. — Head oblong, conical, thick, and
rather compact, resembling that of the Ox-heart variety, but

Lingreville Cabbage. Early Bacalan Cabbage (TV natural size).

perceptibly longer ; leaves large, very slightly crimped, and
undulated on the edges ; stem longish. Although larger than the
Ox-heart variety, this is equally early, and especially adapted for
the mild seaside climate of the west of France. It appears to have
been raised at Saint-Brieuc, whence it was brought to Bordeaux,
and .is very largely grown and highly esteemed in both these
localities, especially for autumn sowing.

Large Bacalan Cabbage. — When this variety comes true to
name, it is distinguished from the preceding one by its somewhat
larger size and by its more compact and rather more pointed head.
There are all kinds of intermediate forms between these two
varieties, which were themselves identical in origin. The Large
Bacalan heads almost as soon as the preceding kind and keeps
its shape better.

Here ends the series of varieties which may be considered as
forming one group with the Ox-heart kinds. We shall add to the

THE COMMON CABBAGE

129

list of Early Cabbages three round or flat-headed varieties, which
by their earliness and smallness of size are clearly distinguished

from the kinds commonly
known as Large Smooth-
leaved Cabbages, the series
of which commences with
the description of the Saint-
Denis Cabbage.

Large Bacalan Cabbage
(^j- natural size).

St. John's Day Dwarf Drumhead
Cabbage (^ natural size).

St. John's Day Dwarf Drumhead Cabbage.— A very distinct
variety, with an extremely short stem. Head very hard and
compact, rather broad than long, and somewhat bulging in the
upper part ; outer leaves not very numerous, deep green, and very
smooth ; those forming the head of a paler green. This variety is
very extensively grown in Anjou and Lower Brittany. In the
neighbourhood of Paris it does not easily withstand a very cold
and damp winter. In its native district it is chiefly sown in
autumn for a spring crop ; grown in this way, the heads are not so
flat as they turn out when the sowing is made in spring,

Flat Parisian or Early Spring Cabbage. — A very short-
stemmed variety with a broad, flat, slightly rounded head. It has but

few outer leaves, and its
colour is a light vivid green.
B A very earlv cabbage,

s?**:
— ^^ ^^

Flat Parisian Cabbage.

Small Early Erfurt Cabbage
(^j- natural size).

admirably suited for market-gardens, and usually grown around
Paris along with the second-early varieties of the Ox-heart type.

9

130 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Small Early Erfurt Cabbage. — A very handsome little variety,
an almost exact miniature of the Hundredweight Drumhead
Cabbage. Stem short ; head flattened ; outer leaves marked
with a great number of white veins. It does best when sown
in spring, as autumn-sown plants are apt to run to seed without
heading.

Henderson's Early Summer Cabbage. — This variety, which
is of American origin and rather esteemed in the United
States, cannot be more properly placed than next after the
preceding kind, which it much resembles in size and appearance.
It has, however, a longer stalk, a thicker head, and leaves of
a grayer tint. In earliness, it comes immediately after the
Jersey Wakefield Cabbage, and before all the other large-headed
Cabbages.

CULTURE. — The Early Cabbages, among which may be classed
all the varieties which have just been enumerated (except, perhaps,
the Large Bacalan Cabbage), are usually sown about Paris during
the last ten days of August, or the first ten days of September.
In October, the seedlings are either planted out permanently, or
else pricked out into a bed, where they are allowed to remain until
they are planted out permanently in spring. In well-drained,
warm, light soils, they may be generally planted out permanently at
the end of autumn ; but in damp soils, or in localities which are
exposed to severe frosts and snow or excessive rains, it is better not
to plant out permanently until after winter is over. The earliest
York Cabbages should be planted in warm and sheltered positions
in a bed with a south aspect. In February, it is a good plan to
make a sowing of early kinds on a hot-bed, pricking out the
seedlings on a hot-bed also, and using the plants thus obtained to
fill up vacancies caused by any of the autumn-sown plants having
either perished from the severity of the winter or run to seed
prematurely under the influence of unusually mild weather. Early
Cabbages may also be sown in spring, from March to May, and
planted out as soon as the seedlings are big enough, if there
is ground ready to receive them. This is the simplest and
easiest way of growing them, but it is not so much practised
as sowing in autumn, as these early varieties are mostly grown
for spring crops.

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES

Saint-Denis Drumhead Cabbage.— This variety, which is one
of the most extensively grown about Paris, and also one of the
oldest, may very aptly be placed first on the list in the enumeration
of the different varieties of Smooth-leaved Drumhead Cabbages, as

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 131

its well-known characteristics will serve as points of comparison to
which we shall refer other varieties of foreign origin or more recent
introduction. It has a longish stem, quite as long, at least, as the
head, which is round, depressed, and almost flat when fully grown,
and of a wine-lees-red colour on the top. Outer leaves large,
rather stiff, the lower part closely pressed against the head, and the
upper part turned backwards, rather deep and glaucous green, and
rounded in outline, entire, not toothed nor undulated ; veins rather
large, and pale green. In the neighbourhood of Paris it is usually
sown from March to May, and the heads are cut in the autumn up
to the commencement of winter.

A sub-variety of the Saint-Denis, which is a little earlier, was
for a long time grown under the name of Chou de Bonneuil, but it
has now either gone out of cultivation or become mixed up with
the ordinary variety. And yet, if we refer to the descriptions of

Saint-Denis Drumhead Cabbage Late St. John's Day Cabbage

(TV natural size). (^ natural size).

the two kinds which were published over a century ago, it would
appear as if it was really the old Saint-Denis variety which has
gradually disappeared and been superseded by the Chou de Bonneuil.
The characteristics of the latter, as described in the eighteenth
century, were, in fact, the same as those which we recognise at the
present day in the Saint-Denis Cabbage, while the variety which
was then named Saint-Denis had a fuller and less flattened head
and a longer stem, and resembled the Late Flat Dutch Cabbage
up to a certain point.

Late St. John's Day Cabbage (Chou Joanet tardtf).— Stem
shorter than that of the preceding kind ; head rounder and not so
broad; outer leaves smaller, rounder, and a deeper green. The
plant does not take up so much ground as the Saint-Denis, and
comes in some days earlier, but it does not appear to bear frost
so well. The stem is so short that the head seems almost to rest
on the ground.

132

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Dutch Drumhead, or Early Dwarf Flat Dutch
Cabbage. — A short-stemmed variety very like the Large St.
John's Day Cabbage. It is not quite so early as that, and is
also sometimes brown on top. Both varieties are well suited for
market-garden culture, their heads being close and firm.

Short-stemmed Brunswick Cabbage. — An excellent kind, very
distinct, and highly deserving of recommendation. Leaves and head

Early Dutch Drumhead Cabbage
(^5- natural size).

Short-stemmed Brunswick Cabbage
(^5- natural size).

a fine clear green, far less glaucous than those of the Saint-Denis,
and with less of the gray tinge than those of the Hundredweight
Drumhead ; head thick and broad, very much depressed, and quite
flattened on the top ; outer leaves growing closely against the
under-part and sides of the head, which, from the shortness of the
stem, appears to be almost resting on the ground. The plant is
almost as early as the Saint-Denis Cabbage.

The Large Late Flat Brunswick Cabbage, which has a longer
stem and a less flattened head, has not been much grown since

the present kind, -which is
superior to it in every re-
spect, became more generally
known.

Schweinfurt Quintal
Drumhead Cabbage. —
This is the largest, if not the
most productive, of all the
Cabbages, and is, at the same
time, a very early kind.
When sown in April, it
may be cut at the end of
August or in September.

Schwemfurt Quintal Drumhead Cabbage. ^ ^ .,, ^^fty

broad, frequently attaining a diameter of 20 in. and more ; it is,
like the outer leaves, a pale green, crossed with white veins, and
often tinged with brown or violet-red, rather soft and deficient

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 133

in compactness and weight ; nevertheless, a good kind for the

kitchen-gardens of farms or large establishments, on account of

its productiveness and earliness.

Fumel Cabbage. — This kind, and also the two following

varieties, might be considered as intermediate between the Smooth-

leaved Cabbages and the

Savoy Cabbages, as the

leaves are coarsely

crimped and almost

curled. We shall, how-

ever, follow the usual

custom in classing them

with the Smooth-leaved

kinds, and they cannot

be more properly placed

than next to the Schwein- Fumel cabbage.

furt Cabbage, which they : • .

resemble in their earliness and in the softness of the head. The

Fumel Cabbage appears to have originated in the south of France ;

at least, it is very much grown there, and also .in Algeria. It

has a very short stem, and not many outside leaves, which spread

horizontally close to the' ground, are of a dark green colour, and

broadly crimped. The head, on the other hand, is very light in

colour, loose, broad, and very much flattened ; it is almost as large

as that of the Saint-Denis Cabbage, but not nearly so heavy, and

goes out of shape very soon. This is one of the earliest of all

the Cabbages, but it does not appear to answer the climate of

northern districts, where it rots too easily.

Early Habas Cabbage. — A variety grown in all the south-

western districts of France, where it is sometimes confounded with

the following kind. It is
a pretty early Cabbage,
with a short stem, and
numerous crimped leaves,
rather light in colour,
the lower ones almost
spreading on the ground ,
the inner leaves form a
rather loose head of a
yellowish green colour.

£ * X DfUmhead

Cabbage. — Stem pretty
long; leaves very numerous, coarsely crimped, of a darker and more
glaucous green than those of the preceding kind, and resembling
those of the Large Drumhead Savoy to some extent ; head round.
seldom well formed, at least in the climate of Paris, and always rather

Early Habas Cabbage (A natural size).

134

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

small in comparison with the luxuriance of the leaves. A half-late

variety, which appears to
be of little account outside
of its native locality.

Late Flat Dutch
Drumhead Cabbage. —
Head rather large, round,
somewhat depressed in
shape, very full and firm ;
outer leaves pretty nume-
rous, large, and clinging,
broadly crimped to some
extent. This variety has a

Dax Drumhead Cabbage (A natural size). iQnger stem and ig mQre

glaucous and later than the Saint-Denis Cabbage. Its principal
merit is that of being exceedingly hardy and capable of enduring
the most 'severe frost.
The Ecury Cabbage,
which is well known
and highly esteemed in
Champagne, resembles
it very much.

Hundredweight,
Quintal, or Mason's
Drumhead Cabbage. —
One of the oldest and
best Late Cabbages.
Head broad, very large,
very much flattened,

size).

ashy green, with very numerous white veins, and the edges often
cut or toothed ; outer leaves rather numerous, but not growing

to a very great size, turned
back at the tops and
showing the head well. A
late, very hardy, and very
productive kind,' and is
one of the sorts which
are most used for making
Sauer-Kraut. Probably no
other variety of Cabbage
is so extensively employed

Hundredweight, or Quintal, Cabbage. for field culture. The

Melsbach Cabbage appears
to be a somewhat earlier sub-variety of this.

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 135

Auvergne Quintal Cabbage. — A variety derived from the
preceding one, but much larger and slower to develop. The stalk
is very short ; the outer leaves are erect and gray-green glazed,
with broad ribs. The leaves are only slightly crimped, but much
undulated at the edges. The head, which is rather flat and very
hard, is often over i J ft. in diameter. A hardy and very productive
variety, fit for autumn and winter use on farms and in large
gardens. Although of rather recent introduction, it has already
spread all over the country.

Early Winnigstadt Cabbage. — In its pointed shape, this
variety somewhat resembles the Ox-heart Cabbages, but differs
from them very strikingly in the close and compact manner in
which the leaves forming the head are wrapped round each other,
and the consequent greater hardness and firmness of the head.
Stem short ; outer leaves large, glaucous green, and moderately

Early Winnigstadt Cabbage.

Filder, or Pomeranian, Cabbage
(rV natural size).

undulated at the edges ; the inner ones are folded almost in the
shape of a twisted or conical paper bag, and form an exceedingly solid
and firm head, almost spherical in shape, but pointed at the top, and
weighing heavy for its size. Although only a middling early kind,
it is an exceedingly productive one, and cannot be too highly
spoken of. It is also one of the best for field culture. It succeeds
much better in summer than in the autumn, and is unsuited for
late sowings and spring use.

Filder, or Pomeranian, Cabbage.— Stem long, usually swollen
under the head ; outer leaves numerous and large, light green ;
head a very long cone-shape, solid and compact, and very white at
the heart, ending in a point formed by a leaf rolled in the shape of
an inverted paper bag. This is a rather late variety, succeeding
better when sown in spring than when sown in autumn, and keeping
well for some time in winter. It is very generally grown in the

136

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

north of Germany, where there are a great number of local varieties,
differing more or less from one another in the length of the stem
and head, and the colour of the leaves. This variety appears to us

to be the most deserving
of notice, as it is produc-
tive without being very
late.

Green Glazed
American Cabbage. —
An exceedingly distinct
variety. Stern of medium
length ; leaves rounded,
very firm and stiff, dark
green, and glazed all over.
This kind does not head
very well, but in some
degree resembles the
Borecoles, differing from

Green Glazed American Cabbage^ natural sue). in>fulness*f jeaf

and shortness of stem. It is most suitable for spring culture, and
is often sent to table shredded in vinegar like Red Cabbage.

Curled-leaved Winter Cabbage (Chou gaufrt dhiver}.—^
compact variety, the outer leaves curiously curled at the edges and
closely set against the head, which is round, hard, and plump, and
impervious to the hardest winters. It is not unlike the Vaugirard
Winter Cabbage, but is untinged with violet either on the head or
on the leaves. It is almost
as much grown as the
Vaugirard for supplying
the markets at the end of
the winter.

Vaugirard Cabbage.—
Stem rather short ; outer
leaves numerous, stiff, of
rather dark gray - green,
often hollowed or spoon-
shaped, and always un-
dulated and cut at the
edges ; veins numerous and
distinctly marked ; head
round, depressed, rather

Curled-leaved Winter Cabbage.

flat, firm and hard, tinged

with violet-red on the upper

part, and also at the edges of the outer leaves. This is one of

the hardiest kinds, and is very much grown in the neighbourhood

of Paris for winter use; it bears frost, however, better when the

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 137

head is not fully formed. The Parisian cultivators are careful
not to sow it too early, seldom doing so before June, if it is
intended to pass the winter in the open ground.

Extra Late Amager Cabbage. — Stem tall, leaves of a peculiar
silvery gray colour, smooth, rounded, slightly convoluted at the
edges. Head round, only slightly flattened, weighing from 4 to
6 Ib. It is late to form, but very hard. Introduced from Denmark,
where it stands the severest winters without any protection, it is
the hardiest of all headed Cabbages.

Early Dark Red Erfurt Cabbage. — A very handsome, small,
dwarf kind, with a spherical head not much larger than a big

Vaugirard Cabbage (^ natural size).

Early Dark Red Erfurt
Cabbage (^y natural size).

orange. Leaves round, not very numerous, dark red, almost black.
The heart of the head, however, is not so dark. A very handsome
little Cabbage for the kitchen-garden, taking up little space, and
coming in early. The stem is short but well defined, as the outer
leaves stand up well around the head, as in the Late St. John's Day
Cabbage. This variety does not do well, unless when sown in
spring — at least, in the neighbourhood of Paris.

Utrecht Red Cabbage. — Stem rather long ; head round, com-
pact, and dark red ; outer leaves rather numerous, of medium size,
round, and rather stiff; the
heart of the head is not
very deeply coloured.

Large Red Dutch Pick-
ling Cabbage, or Large
Red Drumhead Cabbage. —
Stem rather long ; outer leaves
very large, broadly undulated

^>^«> —

at the edges, violet -red,

sometimes slightly mixed

with green, and covered

abundantly with bloom, which

gives them a blue tinge ; head rather large, rounded in shape,

slightly depressed, not so deeply coloured on the outside as that

Utrecht Red Cabbage.

138

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of the two preceding varieties, but much more deeply coloured
at the heart. This variety is more productive than the Utrecht,

and is only a few days
later. It is the best kind
for field culture.

The American Mam-
moth Rock Red Cabbage
and Acme Red Drumhead
Cabbage resemble much
the Large Red Dutch
Pickling Cabbage, but
with them the heart is a
little more solid.

Red Polish Short-
stem Cabbage. — A very
distinct variety. The head
is flat, clark red, hard and
compact. The outer leaves

Large Red Dutch Pickling Cabbage. are covered with a waxy

coating which gives them

a bluish look. They are undulated at the margin, and stiff like
those of Quintal Cabbage. The stem is very short. It is a
variety for autumn and winter use, and being extremely hardy,
may be left very late on the ground.

Dark Red Early Pointed-headed Cabbage.— A vigorous
grower, with a fairly long stem, large and numerous leaves,

Red Polish Cabbage.

m

Dark Red Early Pointed-headed Cabbage.

dark red in colour, and a firm and fairly large head, oval in shape
and pointed at the top.

All the kinds of Red Cabbage are used in the same ways
as the other kinds, but they can also be eaten raw, as salad ;

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 139

when shredded fine and pickled with vinegar, they turn a brilliant
red colour.

Marbled Burgundy Drumhead Cabbage. — Stem longish ;
leaves numerous, stiff, rounded, narrowly undulated at the edges,
pale gray-green, with red
ribs and veins ; head
rather small, very com-
pact, flat on the top,
formed of short leaves,
which often do not quite
cover one another, and
leave a pit-like depression
in the centre of the top.
In addition to the prin-
cipal head, other small
heads, about the size of
hen's eggs, and very hard

and compact are often Marbled Drumhead ^

produced in the axils of

the lower outside leaves. It is chiefly from the marbled appearance
of the heart of the head when cut that this variety derives its
name. It is considered a very hardy kind, and is very extensively
grown in the eastern districts of France and in Switzerland.

Variegated - heading Cabbage. — A short-stemmed variety,
with outer leaves half-erect, undulated, strongly tinged, and mottled
with white, rose, red, and lilac on a dark green ground, which makes
it of some value as an ornamental plant. The head, however, is

large enough to make it
worth growing for the
table.

CULTURE. — The
Smooth-leaved Drumhead
Cabbages, the series of
which terminates here, are
most usually sown in
spring, from March to
June, according to the
varieties grown, and the
time it is desired the crop
should come in. The sowings are made in the open ground,
and the seedlings are pricked out as soon as possible into a
bed, from which, as soon as the stems have grown as thick as
a goose-quill, they are planted out permanently in well-tilled
and richly manured ground. Plentiful waterings should be given,
at first to ensure the rooting of the young plants, and afterwards
to compensate for the great evaporation which takes place in

Variegated-heading Cabbage.

140 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the long hot days of summer. Over a great part of Britain this
is not needed. The kinds which are cut in autumn do not require
any special treatment. Those which are for winter use should not
be allowed to remain where they were planted, except in localities
where the winter climate is mild ; everywhere else, they should be
taken up and trimmed of all decaying and superfluous leaves, and
then replanted closely in rows, in an inclined position, with the top
of the head, if possible, turned towards the north. In some
countries a curious, but very effectual, method is adopted : a sort of
a wall is constructed of soil, in which the stems and roots of the
Cabbages are placed horizontally, the heads remaining outside. In
this way, they will keep very far into the winter. Very few of the
common large Cabbages are suited for being sown in August for
use in the spring or early summer, as most of them run to seed
without forming a head when grown under those conditions. It is
advisable, therefore, to treat such Cabbages as biennials only in
places where this has been tried with success.

Besides the varieties already described, we may mention the
following kinds, which were formerly more or less esteemed, and
the names of which are still to be met with in horticultural works,
although the plants themselves are not now so often in cultivation ;
also a few local varieties, which at present are hardly distributed
beyond their native districts : —

Alsace Autumn Cabbage.— Stem long ; head large, compact,
flat, and sometimes brown on .the upp£r part ; outer leaves short,
stiff, and round. This variety resembles the Saint-Denis Cabbage,
but it has a longer stem, and comes in somewhat earlier.

Large La Trappe, or Mortagne, Cabbage.— This handsome
kind is hardly grown beyond the neighbourhood of Mortagne, in
the department of 1'Orne. It is somewhat like the Saint-Denis
Cabbage, but is later, much larger, and of a deeper green colour.

Death's-head Cabbage. — A very thick-set, dwarf variety.
Head of average size, very compact, regular, light in colour, and
almost spherical ; outer leaves rounded and not large. A very
distinct variety, but now almost universally superseded by the Late
St. John's Day Cabbage.

In enumerating the principal local varieties grown in England,
other parts of Europe, and the United States, we may observe
that it is rather remarkable that, while a great number of the
varieties of other vegetables are almost exactly the same in France
and England, most of the varieties of Garden Cabbages are quite
different in the two countries. This is probably owing to the
difference of climate, as the Cabbage is highly susceptible t6 the
effects of a dry or a moist climate. We shall only mention those
English varieties which are most generally grown, noting, where
possible, the French varieties they most closely resemble.

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 141

Atkin's Matchless Cabbage.— This variety is very like the
Very Early Etampes Cabbage, but it is not so early, and its
leaves are more undulated.

Battersea, Enfield Market, Vanack, or Fulham Cabbage,—
One of the most extensively grown for the London markets. It
resembles the French Large Ox-heart Cabbage, with a tendency in
the direction of the Tourlaville or the Bacalan variety. The Early
Paris Market Cabbage is a very good substitute for this variety.

Little Pixie, or Tom Thumb, is a good variety with very
smooth, round, entire leaves, and oval obtuse heads.

Cornish Paignton, or Early Cornish, Cabbage. — Resembles
the Bacalan Cabbage, but the head is less compact, and is
extremely light in colour, like that of the Fumel Cabbage. It
is not very hardy.

To the foregoing may be added — Ellairis Dwarf Cabbage, a
very early variety, with small compact heads, of delicate flavour, a
continuous supply of which may be had throughout the year by
making successional sowings. Cartels Heartwell Cabbage, a valu-
able medium-sized Cabbage, and one of the earliest, remarkable
also for its compact uniform growth. This and the preceding
are two of the best kinds in cultivation. Cocoa-nut (Wheeler),
a very distinct, compact, valuable small Cabbage. Imperial
(Wheeler), a very fine selection, the variety being one of the
best for general use.

Of the varieties grown in the north of Europe, the following
are the most noteworthy : —

Kaper-kohl Cabbage. — Another very hardy kind, with a round,
slightly flattened head, deeply tinged with violet or brown on the
upper part, as are also the rather undulated edge's of the numerous
outer leaves. It is something like the Vaugirard Cabbage.

Liibeck Cabbage. — A variety of medium size, with a compact,
flattened head. The leaves are rather glaucous, resembling those
of the Saint-Denis Cabbage in hue. A late and very hardy kind.

Giant Flat Gratscheff Cabbage.— A very leafy and large-sized
variety, the chief merit of which, perhaps, is its capacity for enduring
severe frosty weather without injury.

The varieties which have originated in the south of Europe are
not very many. We shall only mention the following : —

Pisa Round Cabbage. — This Cabbage is extensively grown
and much esteemed in Italy and Algeria. In size and appearance it
is rather like the Late St. John's Day Cabbage ; the head is almost
round, but terminates at the top in a blunt cone; stem rather long;
outer leaves not many, round, and almost spoon-shaped. There
are several sub-varieties, differing from one another in size and
earliness ; the earliest of them heads almost as quickly as the
York Cabbages.

142 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Murcian Cabbage. — An exceedingly distinct variety with
leaves almost round, thick, dark green on the upper surface and
nearly gray underneath, overlapping one another like the leaves of
a Cabbage Lettuce. It is a very early variety, but the head is
loose in texture and almost quite hollow, keeping its shape only
for a few days. In the climate of Paris it is of no account

In the United States the varieties of Cabbage grown there are
divided generally into three groups : —

(1) Early Cabbages,: comprising the Early Jersey Wakefield,
Express, Very Early Etampes, St. John's Day Early, Early York,
Flat Parisian or Early Spring (described earlier in this book), and
the Charleston Wakefield Cabbage, which is a rather later, larger-
headed, rounder, and broader-leaved variety than the Early Jersey
Wakefield Cabbage.

(2) Summer or Second Season's Cabbages : comprising, in
addition to the Early Dwarf Flat Dutch, the Winnigstadt Early,
the Pointed-headed Pomeranian, the Large Brunswick Short-stem
Cabbages, already described, the following principal American
varieties : —

Henderson's Early Summer Cabbage. — A middle-sized, half-
long-stemmed variety ; the heart flattened or slightly depressed at
the top, and pale green ; the outer leaves large and displayed,
rather thin and slightly undulating at the edges. Early, quick-
heading, and much esteemed in the United States.

All-head, Faultless Early, Solid South, or Eclipse Cabbage.—
Rather earlier than the last-described, and a stouter plant, with
smoother, thicker leaves. The stem is rather short, the head-
rounded, big, hard, and regular in shape.

Succession Cabbage.— Resembles the Henderson's Early Sum-
mer Cabbage, excepting that the leaves are smaller, thicker, and the
head much bigger and flatter, maturing also eight or ten days later.

All Seasons, or Vandergaw, Cabbage.— Rather later than
the Succession Cabbage, and more spread out ; the head round
and compact. It is something like the Brunswick Short-stemmed
Cabbage, but leafier and more solid in the head.

Deep-head Cabbage. — Leafy,, but a fine deep head, like the
Brunswick Cabbage.

(3) The third group comprises the Late, or Winter, varieties,
mostly derived from the Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. Among the
varieties the most cultivated in the United States, besides that of
the Extra Late Amager Cabbage (syns. the Danish Ball-head, the
Dutch Winter, the German Export, Danish Emperor, and Solid
Emperor) already described, are the following : —

Excelsior Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. — Differs from the
Brunswick Short-stemmed Cabbage in having a bigger and some-
times red-coloured head. The leaves are glaucous.

SMOOTH-LEAVED DRUMHEAD CABBAGES 143

Premium Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. — A tall-stemmed
variety, rather quicker to head than the Late Flat Dutch
Cabbage, the leaves large and glaucous ; head big, flattened, full
and solid, something like that of the Saint-Denis Large Cabbage.

Houseman Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. — A hardy, big variety,
with large rounded entire leaves curling backwards, the head big,
round, compact, and the stem rather long.

Acme Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.— Differs from Houseman's
Late Flat Cabbage only in having the outer leaves of more ample
size and thinner texture.

Select Late Flat Dutch Cabbage. — Mid- way, as regards
characteristics, between the Houseman Late Flat Dutch Cabbage
and the Acme Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.

Stonemason, or Warren's Stonemason, Cabbage. — A distinct
short-stemmed variety, with comparatively few leaves, and these
rounded, entire, ample, stout, not much undulating and very
glaucous ; the head big, almost round and compact.

Sure-head Cabbage. — A late variety of the Late Flat Dutch
Cabbage type; rather long in stem, the head of average size, compact
and regular ; outer leaves not numerous, glaucous and waving.

Louisville Drumhead Cabbage. — A vigorous late variety, the
leaves long and entire, smooth, spreading, and thin in texture ; the
head at times more deep than broad. It is much grown in the
southern States, where it seems less susceptible to drought than
most other varieties.

Premium Late Drumhead, or Large Late Drumhead,
Cabbage. — A big-sized, very late variety, shorter in the stem than
the Premium Late Flat Dutch Cabbage, with many leaves ample
in size, spread out, dark green, mostly undulated and waving at the
edges ; the head very big, compact, rounded, and keeping well.

Autumn King, or World Beater, Cabbage.— A distinct very
late variety, the leaves not many, thick, rounded, waving, very
glaucous, and violet-coloured ; stem short ; head thick, very large,,
round and compact.

Bridgeport Drumhead Cabbage. — A sub-variety of the Late
Drumhead Cabbage, very late, glaucous, with stout white ribs, and
firm, round, compact head.

Marble-head Mammoth Cabbage.— One of the largest varieties-
grown, and of considerable weight. It is very late, rather long-
stemmed, the head rather open, resembling that of the Hundred-
weight Drumhead Cabbage. The leaves numerous, glaucous, and
curling outwards, the ribbing very marked.

Luxembourg, or Hard-heading, Cabbage.— A very latev
hardy, short-stemmed variety, with leaves glaucous and rounded,,
and head of middle size, firm, and coloured beneath with violet-
red like the Vaugirard Winter Cabbage. Keeps long.

144 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

SAVOY CABBAGES

Brassica oleracea bullata, D.C.

French, Chou de Milan. German, Wirsing, Savoyerkohl, Borskohl. Flemish and Dutch,
Savooikool. Danish, Savoy-kaal. Italian, Cavolo di Milano. Spanish, Col de Milan,
C. risada. Portuguese, Saboia.

Under this name are grouped all the varieties of Cabbage which,
instead of having the leaves smooth, have them crimped, or, as they
are sometimes incorrectly termed, " curled," all over. This appear-
ance, according to De Candolle, is owing to the circumstance that,
in these varieties, the parenchyma, or spongy substance, of the leaf
is developed more rapidly than the nerves or veins, and con-
sequently becomes raised above their level, not finding room
enough to grow flat in the space between them. The area of the
surface of the leaves is increased by these numerous crimped
divisions, and the head, being formed of all the leaves while they
are still young, is more tender than in any of the Smooth-leaved
kinds generally. The flavour is also considered milder and less
musky. The mode of growing them does not differ from that
already described for the ordinary kinds.

St. John's Savoy Cabbage. — This handsome variety might
almost be described as an Ox-heart Savoy, as it forms a head

St. John's Savoy Cabbage Ulm, or Early Green Curled, Savoy

dV natural size). Cabbage (^ natural size).

much in the same manner as the Ox-heart Cabbage, and almost as
promptly. The stem is extremely short, and the leaves are a pale,
wan green, and much but not finely crimped. The head forms very
quickly, more so than in any other variety of Savoy. It does not
keep its shape long, but bursts and grows out of form, if not cut in
time — a remark which also applies to nearly all the very early
Cabbages.

Ulm, or Early Green Curled, Savoy Cabbage.— Stem long;
head small and round ; leaves not numerous, deep green, rather
coarsely and deeply crimped. This is the smallest and one of the
earliest of all the Savoy Cabbages. The New Dwarf Ulm (Little
Pixie} Savoy, a fine dwarf variety, the Vienna Early Dwarf (Tom
Thumb, or King Coffee} Savoy, the dwarfest of all varieties, and

SAVOY CABBAGES

145

the Dwarf Green Curled Savoy, a fine medium-sized variety, are
three kinds highly deserving recommendation. The first two kinds
should be planted I ft. apart.

The Vienna Savoy is a sub-variety of the Ulm Savoy, with
leaves not so much crimped, and a rather oblong head. A very
small and very early kind.

Very Early Paris Savoy Cabbage. — This variety is closely
allied to the preceding one, but also very distinct from it. Head
round and firm, light green, and surrounded by a few spreading
not very large leaves, rather dark green in colour, and more broadly
crimped than those of the foregoing variety. The Very Early
Paris Savoy is remarkable for its symmetrical and regular shape

Very Early Paris Savoy Cabbage
(^y natural size).

Dwarf Early Green Curled Savoy.

and dwarf stature. It heads almost as quickly as the York
Cabbages or the earliest Ox-heart varieties.

Dwarf Early Green Curled Savoy Cabbage. — An excellent
variety, very distinct, and of first-rate quality. Stem very short ;
leaves large and broad, rather deep green, very finely crimped, and
spreading on the ground in a broad rosette before the head is
formed ; head firm, moderately flattened. This variety is exten-
sively grown about Paris for the winter markets. It is sown all
-through the summer, planted out permanently just as winter
commences, and supplies the markets all through the winter.
Generally the head is only beginning to form when the plants
are cut, but the numerous outer leaves, which closely surround the
head, form an excellent vegetable after they have been softened
and made tender by frosty weather.

Dwarf Roblet Savoy Cabbage. — A small and excellent variety,
very dwarf and half-early. The outer leaves are glaucous green,
short, and finely crimped, spreading on the ground. The head is
flat and rather broad, and close to the ground. Its small size and
the shortness of the outer leaves allow of its being grown very
close ; therefore a good cabbage for small gardens as well as a
field variety.

146

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Flat Green Curled Savoy Cabbage.— Stem rather
long ; leaves a somewhat glaucous green, largish and pliant, and

not so finely crimped
as those of the preced-
ing kind. It somewhat
resembles the Large
Drumhead Savoy, but

*OTgw*w«»?VK«u^ has a much smaller head.

It is one of the most

extensively cultivated
kinds, and is chiefly
worthy of note as being
hardy, and not particular
as to the soil in which it
is grown.

The American vari-
eties are : Perfection
Drumhead Savoy, Globe Curled Savoy, and the Improved American
Savoy. There is very little difference between these and the Early
Flat Green Curled Savoy Cabbage ; and the same may be said of
the Marvin's Savoy, another American variety, except that is a little
larger and rather later.

Tours Savoy Cabbage. — Stem short ; leaves very large and
numerous, very dark green, and coarsely and broadly crimped, the
outer ones almost entirely spreading on the ground ; head round,
rather small in proportion to the size of the plant, not very compact,

Dwarf Roblet Savoy Cabbage.

Early Flat Green Curled Savoy Cabbage. Tours Savoy Cabbage (TV natural size).

and often imperfectly formed. As in the case of the Dwarf Green
Curled Savoy, the outer leaves form as important a part of the crop
as the head.

This variety resembles .the Early Joulin Savoy Cabbage, but the
latter is an earlier and smaller kind.

Aire Savoy Cabbage. — A very distinct short-stemmed variety ;
thetyuter leaves are not much developed, allowing of close planta-
tion. Head almost round, medium-sized, firm, and very full,
weighing 4 Ib. and over when well grown. The leaves are pale

SAVOY CABBAGES

147

green or ash-gray, undulated in the centre, and finely crimped at
the edges. An excellent Cabbage for autumn cultivation.

Victoria Savoy Cabbage. — Stem of average length ; leaves
rather numerous, light green, and very finely crimped, in which

Extra Fine Curled Aire Savoy.

Victoria Savoy Cabbage (TV natural size).

respect they are distinguished from those of all other Savoys
except the following kind ; head round, compact, fairly large,
and light green. An excellent variety, of very good quality,
and keeping its head well for winter use. Its leaves are remark-
ably tender and delicate in flavour, and yet they withstand frost
and damp equally well. No other variety has the fleshy substance
of the leaves so abundantly developed in proportion to the size of
the veins or nerves.

Cape, or Large Late Green, Savoy Cabbage. — Stem longish ;
leaves finely crimped, fairly
large, and glaucous green ;
head medium-sized, round,
and very compact. This
variety would bear no bad
resemblance to the Victoria
Savoy, only for the much
deeperblue tint of its leaves.

Yellow Curled, or
Golden, Savoy Cabbage.
— Stem short; outer leaves
broad, rather deep wan
green, broadly crimped, and
almost turned backwards ;
head of a long egg shape,
medium - sized, not very

compact, in winter turning Yellew Curled, t>r Golden Savoy

very light colour,

to

natural size).

almost yellow. This Cabbage is very tender to eat, especially
after frosty weather. There are several forms or sub-varieties of

148

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

it which exhibit various degrees of difference in size and earliness,
while retaining all the main characteristics of the variety just
described. One of the most highly esteemed of these is the

Blumenthaler, a rather large and
late kind.

Long-headed Savoy Cab-
bage.— Stem of medium length,
about one-half or two-thirds the
length of the head, which is
oblong in shape, almost like
that of the Sugar-loaf Cabbage,
light green in colour, and not
very compact ; outer leaves
rather narrow, elongated, erect,
rather broadly crimped, and
somewhat glaucous green. A

Long-headed Savoy Cabbage • moderately early variety, of
(A natural size). good quality, and yielding a

fair crop, notwithstanding the

smallish size of the plants. It heads well in the latter end of
autumn, so that it can be sown to advantage rather late in the
season.

Large Aubervilliers Savoy Cabbage. — A variety derived from
the Vertus Savoy, but now distinct owing to a long selection.
Years ago the Vertus Savoy came into the market scarcely before
the end of October, until some market-gardeners, with a view to its
profitable sale at an earlier date, were careful to mark for seed-
ing purposes those plants which headed quickest, and hence the
decidedly earlier strain which has been obtained. The new variety
is not quite so hardy,
nor does it keep so long
as the Vertus Savoy,
but it has a shorter
stem, a more flattened
head, and less glaucous
light green leaves.

Large Vertus
Drumhead Savoy Cab-
bage.—Stem 6 to 8 in.
high, stout, bearing a
broad, thick, compact
head, which is flat on
the top, sometimes
tinged with a wine-lees-red, and almost perfectly smooth, being
only partially crimped at the edges of the leaves ; outer leaves
rather numerous, large, broad, stiff, well spread out, rather dark

Large Auberviliiers Savoy Cabbage.

SAVOY CABBAGES

149

and glaucous green, and not so finely or abundantly crimped as
those of most other Savoy Cabbages. This variety is grown
on a large scale around
Paris, and especially in
the Plain of Auber-
villiers, where they com-
mence to cut it for
market at the end of
autumn and in the early
part of winter. When
it is grown true to
name, the heads are
only completely formed
at that time, and they
bear the early frosts

pretty well. Immense

Large Drumhead Savoy Cabbage.

Large Hardy Winter Drumhead Savoy Cabbage
(•jV natural size).

quantities of this Cabbage are sent to the Central Market at

Paris during a considerable part of the winter.

Large H ardy
Winter Drumhead
Savoy Cabbage. — Stem
fairly long ; leaves
numerous, large, stiff,
coarsely crimped, rather
'deep and glaucous
green ; head round,
forming rather late, very
full, compact and hard.
This is a good winter
variety, coming in after
the preceding one.

Some people consider it to be the original form of the Large

Vertus Savoy, and that the latter is an accidental improvement

of the market - gardeners

on the primitive variety,

which is not so early, and

does not produce so fine

a head.

Limay Savoy Cabbage.

— Stem long ; outer leaves

large, spreading horizon-
tally, and coarsely and

densely crimped; head Limay Savoy Cabbage (& natural size).

small, round, and not very

compact. This variety is extremely hardy, and resists the severest

frosts. Like the Dwarf Green Curled Savoy, it forms a large

ISO

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

rosette of leaves rather than a head, properly so called, and it
is considered not inferior to that variety in the markets.

Small Belleville Savoy Cabbage. — Stem short, head firm and

rounded, outer leaves dark
and much crimped and
spreading on the ground.
It stands the frost well,
a thin coating of snow
sufficing for its protec-
tion. In this, and also
in being quicker to head,

., ••:'••". . •— •" nrpncF *»..- "'••-^ *•

it is much superior to
the Limay Savoy, which
it resembles. Like the

^ Small Belleville Savoy Cabbage. Limay ^^ ^ may be

sown in June for use after the Vertus Savoy, from late in the
autumn to the end of winter. It is largely grown for the Paris
markets.

Norwegian Savoy Cabbage. — This kind has the leaves so little
crimped that it might almost be taken for an ordinary Smooth-
leaved Cabbage. The stem is fairly long, and the leaves numerous,
stiff, and standing well up about the head, which is round, small,
and very late to form. All the leaves, in winter, become red or
violet. This Cabbage is dis-
tinguishable in appearance
from the Vaugirard Cabbage
only by its longer stem and
somewhat more numerous
leaves. It is the latest of
the Savoys, and will bear
the hardest frosts.

In Belgium there is a
coarsely crimped variety of
Savoy grown under the name
of Chou de Mai or Chou a
trois tetes (Drie-Kropper\ the
head of which is formed by the leaves being twisted, instead of
folded or wrapped over one another in the ordinary way. It is
sown in August, and planted out either before, during, or after
winter, coming in the following May. After the head is cut, the
plant produces two or three small secondary heads in the axils of
the lower leaves.

In the London market-gardens seed is sown in March, and the

Savoys are not so much esteemed plants are put out under fruit-trees,

as Cabbage, but they are largely or in similar positions in the same

cultivated by some growers. The way as Cabbages. The varieties

Norwegian Savoy Cabbage (fa natural size).

SAVOY CABBAGES

mostly grown are the Dwarf Green
Curled, Early Ulm, and Vertus.
Sometimes they are used as Cole-
worts when half-grown, in which
case they are planted thickly among
other crops in any vacant places in
the same way as Cabbage Coleworts.
During winter, when greens are

scarce, Savoys are most in demand.
They are very hardy, and are all the
better for being subjected to frost,
and for this reason they are a good
winter crop. The refuse of the
seed-beds is sometimes planted out
in August to supply Coleworts in
winter and spring.

Braganza, Portugal, or Sea-Kale Cabbage (Chou a grosses
cotes ordinaire}. — Stem shortish ; leaves closely set, with thick,
white, fleshy ribs, undulated and slightly cut on the edges, and
usually hollowed or spoon-shaped, all forming at the latter end of
autumn a small loose kind of head. For a long time a distinction
was made of two varieties of this plant, one with green and the
other with light-coloured leaves, but the difference is so unimportant

Braganza, Portugal, or Sea-Kale Cabbage
(^5- natural size).

Curled Couve Tronchuda Cabbage
(^y natural size).

that at the present day the two kinds are considered identical.
The outer leaves and the head of the Couve Tronchuda are very
tender to eat. It stands frost very well, and even requires it to
bring out its full quality. Under the name of Dwarf Portugal
Cabbage, a more compact and better-headed variety is sometimes
grown in England.

Curled Couve Tronchuda Cabbage. — The ribs of this variety
are not so much developed as those of the ordinary kind, but the
blade of the leaf is much more curled and undulated. It forms an
imperfect head, but bears frost very well, and can be cut all through
the winter, when autumn Cabbages have become scarce.

Curled Winter Borecole Cabbage. — Towards the end of
winter, one may see in the Central Market, at Paris, a variety of
'Cabbage which does not form a head, and which the market-
gardeners call Bricoli Cabbage. This seems to be an intermediate
kind between the Green Curled Kale and the Curled Couve

152 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Tronchuda. As far as we have seen, it possesses no special merit
beyond its great degree of hardiness.

The Thick-leaved Coutances Cabbage resembles closely the

Curled Winter Borecole Cabbage (TV natural size).

Couve Tronchuda. The midrib of its leaf is not so large, but, on
the other hand, it forms a much better head, which in the course
of the autumn becomes very compact, white, and exceedingly firm
at the heart.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

French, Chou de Bruxelles. German, Brlisseler Sprossen-Kohl. Flemish and Dutch,
Spruitkool. Danish, Rosenkaal. Italian, Cavolo a germoglio. Spanish^ Bretones
de Bruselas. Portuguese^ Couve de Bruxellas.

This variety of Cabbage bears some analogy to the Savoys in
its dark green and somewhat crimped leaves ; but, on the other
hand, it has a longer stem than any of the other head-forming
Cabbages, and its leaves, although very numerous, do not form a
true head. It is grown for the sake of the sprouts, which are
produced in the axils of the leaves all along the stem, and of which
the small spoon-shaped leaves are very closely and compactly
wrapped round one another so as to form small heads, which are
round in shape and produced in great abundance. They make
their appearance first at the bottom of the stem, and, as these are
cut away, fresh " sprouts " appear in succession almost up to the
top of the stem. This long-continued production of sprouts, which
is maintained in the severest frosty weather, and also the very fine
quality of the vegetable, have caused the Brussels Sprouts to be
one of the most highly esteemed and most generally grown
kitchen-garden plants. There is something singular, from ZL

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

153

physiological point of view, in the circumstance that the principal
rosette of leaves of this plant does not form a head, while the
secondary shoots or sprouts regularly form very perfect heads.
The very reverse of this is mostly found to occur in other Cabbages
and in Lettuces, in which the principal leaves of the head enwrap
one another closely, while the leaves of the sprouts which they
produce stand apart at greater or less distances from one another
on the shoots which bear them. Be that as it may, we are indebted
to this anomaly for an excellent vegetable.

CULTURE. — The Brussels Sprout is a plant of rather slow
growth, and in order to have a crop from the end of October to
March, sowings should be commenced in March or April, and
continued in succession until June, if a successional crop is desired.
When the seedlings are strong enough, they are planted out
permanently, leaving a space of 20 in. in all directions from plant
to plant of the ordinary variety, and of 16 in. for plants of the
dwarf kind. The sprouts will be fit to cut in October, and the
plants will continue to bear them all through the winter. They
like good, rich, well-drained soil, which, however, should not be
too highly manured, otherwise the growth would become too rank,
to the detriment of the sprouts, which, under such circumstances,
do not head well.

As a rule, in England, Brussels
Sprouts are only cultivated in large
and market gardens, although they
are well deserving of a place in
every garden, however small. With
a little skill and forethought, they
may in warm districts be got to
supply the table from September
till April. The common rule is to
sow one good batch in March or
April, and let that serve all purposes.
Where, however, a long supply is
desired, this is decidedly a mistake,
inasmuch as Brussels Sprouts ought
to be made use of as soon as they
are ready, otherwise they burst or
rot, and are useless. Successional
sowings should be made to keep up
a constant supply.

For early crops the best plan is
to sow a pinch of seed in a shallow
box, well drained, early in January,
and place it in a pit or frame where
the temperature is from 40° to 45°.
The plants will soon be up, and

should be kept close up to the
glass until they are large enough to
handle, when they should be pricked
off into other boxes, or out into a
bed in a frame. Plenty of air must
be admitted to them after they have
again commenced to grow, and if
the weather be favourable in the
middle of March, they may be
planted out-of-doors on the warmest
border that can be spared for them.
If the plants be taken out with a
good ball of earth and planted
during showery weather, they will
grow away without a check, and a
crop of fine large sprouts in Sep-
tember will be the result.

The first sowing out-of-doors
should be made in February or
March, the main sowing early in
April ; and if later supplies be
required, a small sowing may be
made in May or June. When
the plants are large enough to be
conveniently handled, they should.

154

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

be pricked out in rows into
narrow beds or borders, 5 or 6 in.
apart, or more if practicable. The
distance apart of the plants for
the final planting must in some
measure be governed by the space
at disposal, but in any case there
is nothing gained by overcrowding.
Plants for the main crop should be
allowed at least 2 ft. apart each way,
but if 3 ft. can be allowed between
the rows, it will be all the better.
If extra fine sprouts are desired,
3 ft. from plant to plant each way
must be allowed. For early and
late plantations it is not necessary
to allow quite so much space as for
the main crop.

SOIL. — Brussels Sprouts will suc-
ceed in almost any kind of soil,
provided it is well and deeply culti-
vated and fairly manured. Poor
sandy soil will require a heavy
dressing of good manure, whilst
lime and burnt clay may be bene-
ficially applied to cold clayey land
in preference to rank manure just
previous to planting, which would
have a tendency to produce gross
open sprouts instead of the close
medium-sized buttons so much liked
in the kitchen. Frequent stirrings
of the soil, clean culture, and re-
moving decaying leaves add to their
growth and cleanly appearance, and
ought to be insisted on. As regards
earthing-up the stems, there has
been much dispute as to its merits
and demerits, but we have seen
them grown both with and without
that assistance, with much about
the same result. In windy places
earthing-up is certainly to be recom-
mended, in order to enable them to
resist the power of the wind; but
as Brussels Sprouts, unlike Cabbage
or Broccoli, bear all up the stems,
it is not desirable to bury them to
any great depth, beyond giving them
necessary support. The Cabbage-

like heart from the centre of the
plant should not be cut off until the
crop is fit for gathering. The
Brussels Sprout in its proper state
is a small, compact one; and very
rich culture, while giving large
rosettes, does not improve the
quality.

Manure water given to Brussels
Sprouts during dry weather will help
to keep them in a vigorous and
healthy growing state ; but it is well
to remember that overfeeding will
spoil this vegetable, which in its
best state is neat and compact. By
making it coarse and large we make
it useless to the good cook, who
knows what it ought to be.

GATHERING. — In gathering, Brus-
sels Sprouts are frequently broken
from the stems of the plants, and
sometimes with a portion of the
stem adhering to them. This is
wrong, inasmuch as it destroys the
second crop of young sprouts. A
sharp knife should always be used
to cut off the sprouts, leaving as
much spur as possible. The largest
and hardest should always be
gathered first.

Brussels Sprouts are chiefly
grown in the London market-gardens
as catch crops, under orchard trees,
or between other vegetables. The
seed is sown in April, and the plants,
when large enough, are put out
wherever a vacant piece of ground
occurs. Market gardeners prefer
Brussels Sprouts with medium-sized
stems to those of rank growth, as
from the former they get harder and
better sprouts, which realise the
most money in the market. In
gathering Brussels Sprouts most
market gardeners pull up the plants
and cart them to the packing shed,
where women divest the stalks of
the sprouts and pack them in half-
bushel or bushel baskets, the largest
and plumpest being always put on

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

155

the top. The Cabbage-like tops are
packed separately in large baskets.
Some growers, however, pick the
sprouts from the plants as they grow,
and leave them to supply a second
crop. Brussels Sprouts when in the
seed-bed are often attacked by small
white-winged flies, which congregate
on the under-side of the leaves and
greatly injure the plants. In order
to get rid of these, an old sack is
nailed to two poles, about 6 in.

being allowed to hang over one of
the poles to act as a flapper. The
sack, but not the flapper, is then
tarred all over, and two men, one
each side the seed-bed, walk quickly
along with the sack directly over the
plants. The flapper drags over the
plants and disturbs the flies, which
fly upwards and get stuck to the
tar. This several times repeated
gets rid of the majority of the
insects.

USES. — In Belgium, preference is given to small-sized sprouts,
which grow very thickly and close together on the stems ; but in
France the largest-sized sprouts, as big as a good-sized walnut,
are most in favour — another proof that the fine appearance of a
vegetable or a fruit is not always an index of its quality, for the
smallest and hardest Brussels Sprouts
are certainly the most delicate in
flavour.

Tall Brussels Sprouts. — Stem
2\ to over 3 ft. high, slender, with
numerous leaves set at some distance
apart, leaving the stalk bare for
a great part of its length, round,
slightly hollow or spoonshaped, and
very faintly crimped. Sprouts of
medium size, very firm, rather pear-
shaped, and never so close as to
touch one another. This kind is
extensively grown in the fields
around Paris ; it is hardy, and con-
tinues to bear for several months,
producing the smallest, most delicate,
and best " sprouts."

Half-dwarf Paris Market
Brussels Sprouts. — Strong, straight
stem, 20 to 28 in. long ; medium-
sized leaves, rounded, very slightly
crimped, spoon-shaped, borne on
long bare stalks and slightly tinged
with purple. The sprouts are nume-
rous and closely set on the stem,
very firm and rounded, and a light gray-green colour. They
remain a long time without opening, and are scarcely larger
than a large hazel-nut. The Half-dwarf Paris Market Brussels

Tall Brussels Sprouts (^ natural
size; sprout, §• natural size).

1 56

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Sprout is a very productive variety, regular and hardy. It is the
sort preferred by the Paris market-gardeners.

Dwarf Brussels Sprouts.— Stem stout and stiff, usually not
exceeding 20 in. in height ; leaves more close together than those
of the Tall kind, and more crimped. Sprouts generally larger and

Half-Dwarf Brussels Sprouts,

Dwarf Brussels Sprouts
(l^ natural size).

rounder, and usually crowded upon one another. This variety is
generally somewhat earlier than the Tall one, but it does not
continue to bear so long in winter.

In England too much importance is attached to the size of the
sprouts, varieties that yield sprouts as large as small oranges
being preferred; such varieties as Aigburth, Dalkeith, and Scrymgers
Giant, which produce sprouts of a size that in France or in Belgium
would be thought much too large.

Before describing the Borecoles, we must notice two very
distinct kinds of Cabbages, which come between those varieties
which form heads and those which do not. These are the Rosette
Colewort and the Russian Kale.

Green Rosette Colewort. — Under the name of Rosette Colewort
or Collard, a very distinct variety is cultivated in England, which,
although capable of forming a head, is generally cut for use as a
Borecole while the leaves are in the rosette form and still young
and tender. It is very dwarf, the stem seldom exceeding 8 or 10 in.
in height, and bearing numerous closely set, slightly crimped,

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 157

rounded, and deeply hollowed or spoon-shaped leaves. If sown early
in spring, it comes in in August, and, if left in the ground longer,
it forms a small, round, very compact head. But as Cabbages of
all kinds are plentiful in autumn, there is no advantage in sowing
this kind so early ; whereas, if sown in early summer, it comes in
at a time when tender greens are scarcest and most in demand.

Russian Kale. — A singular plant, which, at first sight, one
would be inclined to take for anything else but a Cabbage. Stem
rather large and thickish, 16 to 20- in. high; leaves gray-green, the
outer ones darker and half-spreading, the central ones paler and
erect, all of them cut nearly down to the midrib into rather narrow
divisions, which are entire, or sometimes lobed, and are coarsely
crimped on the upper surface. At the latter end of autumn this
Cabbage forms a sort of a head, which is small, pretty white, and
very compact. Its chief merit is that it bears frosty weather very
well. Apart from its singular appearance, it is not easy to say
what this plant has to recommend it. It is certainly no advantage
to have the veins merely fringed with a narrow border of parenchyma,
or spongy substance, instead of being connected by an unbroken
tissue, as they are in other Cabbages. Having been grown for
some time chiefly in botanical collections, the Russian Kale ap-
peared to have become almost forgotten, and it was later on
re-introduced as a novelty into England.

CULTURE. — The culture of Cole- bability of its growing Whole

worts is very extensive and impor- fields, too, are sometimes cropped

tant in London market-gardens. with it, and are cleared in good

These are Cabbages pulled for time for winter Radishes. The

market when about half-grown, and Rosette is grown largely for market,

for supplying such every spare a sowing of it being usually made

corner in market-gardens is planted. in May in beds in an open piece of

As soon as fruit-bushes have been ground; and, when up, the young

cleared of their crops, rows of Cole- plants are thinned with small hoes,

worts are planted between them; The strongest plants are first selected

they are also planted under fruit- for transplanting, and are put in

trees, no matter how large the trees chiefly as catch crops between other

may be, and also between rows of vegetables. For spring Coleworts,

Moss Roses. The space between only the thinnings of the Fulham

Celery ridges is likewise generally Cabbage are used. The Rosette

planted with Coleworts, as is also is, perhaps, the greatest favourite

that between Asparagus ridges, the in the market, its beautiful white

edges of which, too, are often heads, when bunched, having an

cropped with Coleworts. Between attractive appearance. A kind called

the rows of French and Runner Blue Colewort is largely grown for a

Beans and Late Savoys the Cole- November crop, as earlier in the year

wort is also planted ; and, in fact, it is apt to " bolt." Coleworts are

like Lettuces, it is planted in every tied in bunches, packed in waggons,

empty space where there is a pro- and sold in this way in market. *

* London Rosette Colewort, see pp. 760, 763. Hardy Green Colewort.
see p. 760.

158 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

BORECOLE or KALE

Brassica oleracea acephala, D.C.

French, Choux verts. German, Blatterkohl. Flemish, Bladerkool. Dutch, Boerenkool.
Italian, Cavolo verde. Spanish, Col sin cogollo, Breton, Berza.

To this section belong a number of very hardy and excellent
vegetables, as we think, often more delicate in flavour than the
hearting Cabbages. The sprouts of the Scotch and Cottager's
Kales, gathered in spring from the stems cut in winter, are excellent
in flavour.

Mosbach Winter Kale. — One might suppose that this variety
was a cross between the Tall Green Curled Kale and the Couve
Tronchuda Cabbage, so much does it resemble the latter in its
leaves, which are, to a great extent, entire in the blade, and have
very stout stalks, midribs, and veins. Only the margin of the
leaves is curled arid very finely puckered, almost in the same way

Mosbach Winter Kale.

Tall Green Curled, or Scotch, Kale.

as the leaves of the Curled Kales. The stem is of medium height,
rarely exceeding 2 or 2j ft, and the leaves are disposed along it in
tiers, are bent upwards, instead of downwards, from the middle,
and are distinguished by their pale green, almost yellow, colour.
This plant is not only useful as a table vegetable, but also in some
degree as an ornamental plant. It is not very hardy.

Tall Green Curled, or Scotch, Kale; Tall German, or
Winter, Greens. — Stem stout and straight, 3 to 5 ft. high, bearing
a plume of rather narrow, lobed, deeply cut leaves, very much
curled at the edges, and often turned backwards at the end, light
green in colour, and from 1 6 to 20 in. in length. This is a useful

BORECOLE OR KALE

159

Intermediate Moss-curled Kale.

variety for very cold localities, and its leaves are very tender and

good after they have been exposed to the action of frosty weather ;

besides, the plant is ornamental. In the open ground, even in the

severest winters, it yields a supply

of fresh vegetables of excellent

quality.

Intermediate Moss-curled

Kale. — This variety is intermediate

in height between the Dwarf Curled

Kale, the leaves of which spread

upon the ground, and the Tall

Green Curled Kale, which some-

times grows 6 ft or more high. It

is rarely above 32 in. in height, and

its short, but very broad, leaves are

curled to an extreme, the margins

being also curiously puckered and

twisted. It is perfectly hardy, and

in this respect differs widely from

the Mosbach Kale, which is rather

sensitive to cold.

Curled Green Dwarf Kale, German Greens, Dwarf Curlies,

Canada or Labrador Kale. — This is a dwarf variety of the Scotch

Kale, which it resembles in its leaves ; but its stem does not grow

more than from 16 to 20 in. high, so that the-ends of the leaves

often rest upon the ground. Besides its value as a vegetable, it is

also a very ornamental plant, either for small circular raised flower-

beds in winter or for garnishing dishes on the table.

The Siberian Kale of the Americans is a short-stemmed variety,

not so delicately curled
as the Curled Green
Dwarf Kale, and more
blue in colour.

Jerusalem Green
Curled Kale, or
Asparagus Kale.— A
variety of dwarf but
sturdy growth, the
margin of the leaves

^T JmUCJh C^ped Or
Curled, and the partially

undeveloped centre
leaves tinged with purple on the tips, the veins of a subdued crimson
colour. I n spring it throws out numerous long, stout, succulent shoots,
which may be cooked either green or blanched. The Imperial
Hearting Scotch Kale is also very productive of sprouts in spring.

Dwarf Curled Kale, German Green Dwarf Curlies,
Canada or Labrador Kale (TV natural size).

i6o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Tall Purple Borecole, Tall Purple Kale, or Purple Winter
Greens. — This plant resembles the Tall Green Curled Kale in
everything save the colour of its leaves, which are of a very deep
violet-red hue.

Dwarf Purple Curled Borecole. — A sub- variety of the preceding
kind, growing only from 1 6 to 20 in. high. When it is grown true
to name, the leaves are almost black, and it contrasts very
strikingly with that of the Green Curled Kale, which it equals
in hardipess.

Variegated Borecole, or Garnishing Kale.— Stem from 20 in.
to 2\ ft. high ; leaves divided, slashed, curled, and undulated, like

those of the preceding
varieties, but variegated,
especially after frost,
either with green, red,
or lilac on a white
ground, or with red on
a green ground. Several
of these forms can be
raised individually from
seed, especially the
Red Variegated and the
White Variegated Kale.
All these kinds are very
ornamental, and in
winter very pretty beds
can be made with them
in the open ground,
while the leaves may
also be found useful for
garnishing the dinner-
table. They will bear
very severe frosty
weather, if they have
not previously suffered
from an excess of mois-
ture. In growing them,
when the plants are
sufficiently large, transplant them into poor soil in an open situation.
In autumn, select the most beautiful, and, breaking off the large
under-leaves, plant sufficiently deep to bring the head close to the
surface of the soil.

Georgia Collards. — The Cabbage, as we remarked at the
beginning, is a plant which properly belongs to cold and temperate
climates, and accordingly, amongst cultivated varieties, we find but
very few which can endure the summer heat of warm latitudes.

Variegated Borecole, or Garnishing Kale.

BORECOLE OR KALE 161

The present variety is one of these, and is very highly esteemed in
the Southern United States. It does not form a head, but the
leaves, which are large, undulated, and slightly curled at the edges,
are folded at the heart or centre, so as to form a sort of bunch,
being also variegated with white on the ribs, and presenting some-
what of the appearance of the central leaves of the Cauliflower when
the head is just about to form. These leaves are very tender and
delicate when cooked, and, in fact, form an excellent table vegetable.
The plant grows from 2 to 3 ft. high, according to the nature of
the soil in which it is grown and the liberal amount of culture
bestowed upon it.

Curled Laciniated Borecole. — A half-dwarf plant, not usually
over 20 or 24 in. in height, with long curved leaves, divided into strips
almost straight or slightly curved and curled, which give them a
feathery appearance. The colour is generally a dull red, or purplish,
green, but after the frosts the central part of the plant becomes
a vivid red.

Proliferous Borecole. — This rather singular variety is remark-
able for producing on the midrib, and sometimes on the smaller
veins of the leaf, certain leaf-like appendages, which are curled and
cut in the same manner as the leaf itself is at the margin. The
plants are also usually, at the same time, variegated with white or
red. They are chiefly noticeable as ornamental plants.

Palm-tree Cabbage or Borecole. — Stem straight, or slightly
curved, attaining a height of 6| ft. or more,
and bearing at the top a cluster of leaves,
which are entire, from 2 to over 2\ ft. long
and 3 or 4 in. broad, the edges turned and
rolled underneath, dark, almost black, green
in colour, and finely crimped, like those of
the Savoy Cabbages. They grow straight
and stiff at first, but afterwards become
curved outwards at the ends, giving the plant
a very elegant appearance. The Palm-tree
Cabbage does not often flower before the
third year of its growth, at which time it
attains its greatest height. In France it is
almost exclusively grown as an ornamental
plant. In Italy a variety is grown for table
use under the name of Cavolo Nero, which paim-tree Cabbage, or

, . , . . . . , . rSorecoie.

seems to us to be identical with this.

Several varieties of strong tall Cabbages are used for feeding
cattle only, and need only a brief mention here. They are as
follows : —

Tree Cabbage or Jersey Kale.— The stem is straight, stiff, and
strong, but comparatively slender, as it seldom attains a diameter

II

162

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of if in. In the first year of its growth it does not usually exceed
3 or 4 ft. in height. The plant produces a great number of leaves,
which are green, large, cut at the base, but
oval-rounded at the end, slightly crimped
or puffed on the upper surface, and often
over 2\ ft. long.

Large-leaved Jersey Kale or Sarthe
Cow Cabbage. — This variety, which comes
very near the preceding kind, but is usually
not so tall, is especially remarkable for the
enormous size of its leaves, which often
grow more than 3 ft. long and from 12 to
14 in. broad. It is a very productive cattle-
feeding Cabbage, succeeding best in rich soil
in a temperate climate, as it is not perfectly
hardy.

Flanders Purple Borecole, or Flanders
Kale. — A cattle-feeding plant of large size,
but somewhat smaller than the Tree Cabbage, from which it is
also distinguished by the violet-red colour of its leaves and stem.
The plant is sometimes branched, in which respect it differs from
the Tree Cabbage, the stem of which is most usually unbranched.
The leaves of the Flanders Kale also are smaller and narrower
in proportion to their length.

English Thousand-headed Cabbage, or Branching Borecole.
— Another very large kind, differing from the Tree Cabbage in the

Tree or Jersey Kale,

Flanders Purple Borecole. English Branching Borecole.

stem being usually divided into a number of branches, each bearing
large leaves almost like those of the Tree Cabbage. Although
not so tall as that, it is generally considered more productive ;
but it is not so hardy, and often suffers from the winters of the
middle and north of France.

Improved, or French Thousand-headed, Cabbage. — A very
distinct variety, raised in La Vendee, and, unfortunately, rather

BORECOLE OR KALE

163

sensitive to cold. It branches still more than the preceding kind,

and forms a sort of large tuft or small bush, 3 to 4 ft. highland

exceedingly dense and leafy. The leaves

are entire, rather long, broader at the base

than at the end, and of a very peculiar light

or yellowish tint. It is rather tender for

the winter climate of the greater part of

England.

Marrow Kale. — A large variety of
Cabbage, with a very stout and thick un-
branched stem, which is swollen chiefly in
the upper two-thirds of its length and filled
with a sort of marrow or tender flesh,
excellent for cattle. The leaves are very
long and broad, and constitute a considerable
part of the crop. The stem grows 5 ft. or
more high, with a diameter of 3 to 4 in. in the thickest part. The
Marrow Kale, like the Thousand-headed Cabbage, is sensitive to
cold, and the crop must be gathered before severe frost sets in. At
the end of summer, and all through the autumn, the leaves are cut
and given to cattle. At the commencement of hard weather, when
the leaves are all cut, the stems are taken up and stored in an
outhouse or shed, where they will be safe from frost, and in this
way they will keep all through the winter.

This plant forms the connecting-link between the common
Cattle-feeding Cabbages and the Kohl-Rabi, and, in a more general
way, between the Cabbages which are grown for their leaves and
those which are grown for their swollen steins. The Kohl-Rabi
is only a Marrow Kale with the stem shortened into the form of
a ball, the marrow or substance of the swollen
part being of the same nature, consistence,
and taste in both plants.

The stem of the Marrow Kale, if cut while
young, when the swollen part does not measure
more than 20 in. or 2 ft. in length and 2 or
3 in. in diameter, would, in our opinion, form
a very palatable vegetable.

Red Marrow Kale. — This differs from the
preceding kind only in the red or purplish
colour of its stem. It has the same good
qualities and the same deficiencies.

In England, a great number of kinds of
Borecole or Kale are grown, the leaves of
which are either entire or divided, and smooth
or faintly crimped, and some of them are as useful in the garden
as the much-curled sorts. The principal sorts are : —

Red Marrow Kale.

1 64 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

•

Cottager's Kale. — A rather variable kind, with green or violet
and more or less curled leaves. Its chief merit is its extreme
hardiness.

Egyptian Kale. — A very dwarf variety, which in spring
produces great numbers of fleshy shoots, covered with small tender
leaves.

Jerusalem, or Delaware, Kale. — The leaves of this are curled
at the edges and of a violet tint. The plant produces shoots in
spring, like the preceding kind.

Milan Kale. — This is a Borecole, and should not be confounded
with the French Chou de Milan Savoy. Except that they both
belong to the same genus, there is no resemblance whatever
between them. The Milan Kale produces a stem from 18 in. to
2 ft. high, clothed with plain, bluntly toothed leaves, and terminated
by a close rosette of leaves forming a small head. In spring it
throws out a quantity of succulent shoots, which, when cooked,
is one of the m6st delicious of winter greens.

Ragged Jack.— A hardy and productive variety, with long,
irregularly cut or slashed leaves, and short, often branching, stem.

The Gallega Cabbage, of Portugal, is a variety with very large
green leaves, which are very much crimped and puffed on the
upper surface. It is a good cropper, but sensitive to cold.

CULTURE. — The culture of the Cattle-feeding varieties of
Cabbage does not come within the scope of this work. We will
only say, with respect to such of the Kales or Borecoles as are
grown for ornament or table use, that they require the same treat-
ment as late ordinary Cabbages and Brussels Sprouts. They are
sown in spring in ,a nursery-bed, the seedlings are pricked out in
May, and afterwards finally transplanted in the course of the
summer. The crop comes in through the autumn and winter, and
sometimes through the whole of the following year. The plants
do not run to seed until the spring of the second year after that in
which they were sown.

KOHL-RABI

Brassica Caulo-rapa, D.C.

French, Chou-rave. German, Oberkohlrabi. Flemish, Raapkool. Dutch, Koolraapen
boven den grond. Danish, Knudekaal. Italian, Cavolo rapa. Spanish, Col
rabano. Portuguese, Couve rabano.

The useful part of this plant is its swollen, fleshy, and pulpy stem.
Some cattle-feeding varieties of Cabbages afford examples of
enlargements of this kind, but in none of them is the stem so
completely swollen or so much altered in appearance. In the
Kohl-Rabi, the swelling of the stem^ which commences close to the
surface of the ground, is almost a ball, the size of which in some

KOHL-RABI

165

varieties does not exceed that of an average-sized orange, while
in others it nearly equals that of a man's head. The Kohl-Rabi is
not sufficiently known or valued in France or England, for it forms
an excellent vegetable, especially when used before it is fully
grown, in which state it is generally eaten in Germany, while in
Italy the swollen stem is often eaten before it has grown as large
as a hen's egg.

CULTURE. — The kitchen-garden varieties are sown in a nursery-
bed from March to the end of June. When the seedlings are from
a month to six weeks old, they are permanently planted out, and
the plants may commence to be cut for use about two months
after. In planting them out, a space of from 14 to 16 in. should be
left from plant to plant, according to the variety grown. Some
varieties also are grown for cattle-feeding, and for this purpose the
largest and latest kinds are
employed. They are sown in
April, planted out in May and
June, and cut for use only in
autumn.

USES.— The swollen part
of the stem is eaten before it
is quite fully grown, when it
is tender and has the com-
bined flavours of a Cabbage
and a Turnip.

Common White Kohl-
Rabi. — Leaves rather stout,
I ft. to 1 6 in. long, with white
stalks as thick as the little
finger ; ball very pale green,
almost white, and 6 to 8 in.
in diameter. In this variety
the ball takes a long time to
form — i.e. nearly four months
— before it is large enough to
be eaten, and six or seven
months before it is fully grown. The ball is sometimes flattened,
and at other times almost oblong in shape. The leaves, after
falling, leave behind them broad whitish scars.

Purple Kohl-Rabi.— This differs from the Common White
Kohl-Rabi only in the colour of the ball, the leaf-stalks, and the
veins of the leaves.

These Kohl-Rabis keep well during the winter, but being liable to
become hollow and tough, it is well to make use of them before March.

White Goliath Kohl-Rabi.— A very late sort, producing larger
balls than the preceding. The skin is pale green* almost white.

Common White Kohl-Rabi.

166 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The flesh is fine-grained and of excellent quality, even in full-
grown plants. The lateness of this variety makes it valuable for
autumn and winter use. Pulled in October, before the balls have
attained their full size, and stored under cover, they will keep good
for several months.

The Purple Goliath K. differs from the above only in the purple
tinge of its ball.

White Vienna Kohl-Rabi. — A handsome, very delicately
formed, and early variety, differing from the Common White kind

in the fewness and smallness of its leaves,
which are seldom more than 8 or 10 in.
in length, with stalks no thicker than a
goose-quill. The ball also forms more
speedily in this variety, and is large enough
to be eaten in two months and a half or
three months from the time of sowing.

Early Purple Vienna Kohl-Rabi. —
This variety, the ball of which is purple,
is in most other respects the same as the
preceding kind, but without its delicacy of
form or earliness. They are the two best
kinds for kitchen-garden culture, especially
for forcing or late sowings.
,.,.„,. The Artichoke-leaved Kohl-Rabi is a

Vienna Kohl-Rabi *.i_ "" V * j ^ i j

(£ natural size). rather late and moderately productive

variety, only remarkable for the peculiarity

of its leaves, which are divided into segments, and at some distance
look like the leaves of an Artichoke.

The Neapolitan Kohl-Rabi with curled leaves is, in fact, of
more account as Borecole than as a Kohl-Rabi, as the swelling of
the stem is often of very small dimensions.

TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP)

French, Chou-navet. German, KohlrUbe, Wrucken. Flemish, Steekraap. Dutch,
Koolraapen onder den grond. Danish, Roe. Italian, Cavolo navone. Spanish,
Col nabo, Nabicol. Portuguese, Couve nabo.

The varieties of Turnip-rooted Cabbages differ from the Kohl-
Rabi in that, instead of having the stem swollen over-ground, they
produce, partially buried in the soil, a thick root which is about as
long as it is broad, resembling a huge Turnip, and of which the
flesh is yellow in the Rutabagas or Swedish Turnips, and white in
the other kinds. The characters of the leaves and flowers of these
plants indicate plainly that they are true Cabbages,

CULTURE. — All the varieties like a stiff and moist soil, and grow
best in climates that are a little moist. They suffer from very hot

TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 167

weather, but are not affected by frost, one of their chief merits
being their extreme hardiness. They are best sown, where the
crop is to be grown, in May and June, and the plants are
thinned out so as to leave a space of 14 to 16 in. from
plant to plant in every direction, after which no other attention
is necessary, except the occasional use of the hoe, and watering
when needed.

USES. — The roots are eaten boiled, and have almost the same
flavour as the Kohl-Rabi. They are in the best condition for table
use if lifted before they have reached their full growth. The
Swedish or Turnip-rooted Cabbage is an excellent vegetable,
deserving to be more used than it is.

White Swedish Turnip, or White Swede.— Root short and
broad, somewhat top-shaped, and often irregular in form ; skin
white, sometimes slightly
tinged with green around the
neck ; leaves 14 to 20 in. long,
cut at the edges, and resem-
bling those of the Kohl-Rabi.
Flesh of the root white.

Budlong's White Improved
Turnip, or Swede, an American
variety of this, only differs
from it in being rather rounder,
perhaps, in shape.

The Bredstone Swede,
another American variety, is
a regularly shaped root, more
tapering than the White
Swede, and appears to come
midway between that and the
White Smooth Short - leaf
-Swede, described farther on.
The flesh is white, delicate
in flavour, and of excellent
quality.

White Purple-top
Swedish Turnip. — A sub-
variety Of the White Swede, White Swedish Turnip.

frora which it differs only in the red or purple tinge of the neck
of the root ; the leaf-stalks and the veins of the leaves also are
often of the same colour. Flesh of the root white.

White Smooth Short-leaf Swedish Turnip.— A very distinct
variety, with a flat root, broader than long, more clean-skinned and
generally more regular in shape than the two preceding kinds.
The leaves are shorter, more entire, and of a somewhat deeper

i68

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

White Smooth Swedish Turnip
(\ natural size).

green. This is especially a kitchen-garden variety, and is con-
siderably earlier than any of the preceding kinds, so that it can be

sown up to July. The flesh of the
root is white.

White Early Strap-leaf Swedish
Turnip. — Root almost spherical and
generally well-shaped ; the under-
ground portion white, the upper
part greenish or bronze-coloured :
neck very fine, leaves rather small
in comparison with the size of the
root, broad, oval or rounded and
entire. The flesh of this Swede
is very white, tender, and agree-
able to the taste, specially if used
before the root has attained its full
size.

Green-top Swedish Turnip. —
Root round, with a yellow skin,
deeply tinged with green on the

part over-ground, and especially around the neck. Flesh yellow.
A variety which is almost the same as the Green-top Swede is

found in the United States

under the name of American

Green-top Yellow Rutabaga.

It only differs from the other

in having its leaves slightly

twisted and almost curled.

Under the name of Fin-
land Water-radish a plant

used to be cultivated which

did not appreciably differ

from this, or, at the most, was

only a form of it in which the

root was slightly flattened.
Yellow Purple - top

Swedish Turnip. — This

variety only differs from the

preceding one in the root

being a purplish red colour

above - ground. In Great

Britain, where Swedish

Turnips are grown on a

very large scale, and take

almost the same place in

field culture which the varieties of Mangold-Wurzel occupy

White Early Strap-leaf Swedish Turnip.

TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 169

in France, the Purple-top

Swede is most in favour.

Of this there are a great

many forms, the most note-
worthy of which are the

Skirving, the Champion,

Bangholm, Imperial, Hall's

Westbury, and West Nor-
folk, all of which are to be

recommended for the great

size and very regular form

of their almost perfectly

spherical roots ; the newer

variety Monarch (syns.

Elephant, Mammoth,

Tankard), with an oval

root ; also Laing's variety,

which has an equally large

and well-shaped root, and ^

is especially distinguished Yellow p^^^ Swedish Turnip (i naturai size).

by having the leaves entire.

It is altogether owing to the climate that Swedes are not so

much grown in France as they are in England. Hot, dry

summer weather is unfavour-
able to this plant, which does
best in a climate that is
rather moist, and bears frost
well. In Brittany, where the
climate is nearly the same
as that of England, Swedes
are very extensively grown
and do well.

The Drummond, East
Lothian, Bangholm, Im-
perial, Hall's Westbury, West
Norfolk, Shamrock Purple-
top Swedes, the Fettercairn
Green-top Swede, and the
Shepherd's Golden Globe
Bronze-top Swede differ but
little from the preceding
varieties.

Hartley's Bronze-top
Swede, oval in shape and
short in the collar, is largely
Oval Swedish Turnip. cultivated in Canada.

170

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Oval Monarch, Tankard, or Elephant Swedish Turnip. —
A large, oval-shaped not deep-rooted variety ; the unburied portion

red; strong leaf -stalks;
leaves only slightly cut,
with rounded edges and
slightly crimped. A heavy
cropper ; much grown in
England for cattle-feeding.

The variety called
Kangaroo resembles the
Oval Swede in shape and
growth, but differs from it
by the green-bronzy colour
of the neck.

Early Flat Yellow
Swedish Turnip.— This is

Early Flat Yellow Swedish Turnip. more a kitchen-garden than

a field variety, with a flat,

smooth, and clean-skinned root, faintly tinged with green on the
upper part ; leaves rather few, short, and closely set. The root
of this variety swells more speedily than that of any other kind,
and it is the best for kitchen-garden culture.

Other and true Turnips will be found in their place farther on
in this book.

Chinese Cabbage (Brassica sinensis, L. ; Chinese, Pak-choi).
Native of China. — Annual. —
Although this plant is un-
doubtedly a Cabbage, it is
more like a Leaf-Beet or
Chard. The leaves are ob-
long or oval, dark shining
green, and narrowed to a
long, very white, swollen and
fleshy stalk. It soon runs
to seed, and the flower-stems
resemble those of a Cabbage ;
the seed-vessels, however,
are shorter and thicker than
those of the European
Cabbages. The seed is
round, small, and brown or
blackish red. Their germi-
nating power lasts for five

years Chinese Cabbage.

CULTURE. — The Pak-choi grows rapidly, and may be sown
almost all through the year. If sown in the spring, however, or in

TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (SWEDISH TURNIP) 171

summer, the plants soon run to seed. Accordingly it is usually
grown in the same way as Turnips ; that is, it is sown about the
end of July, or in August, for an autumn or early winter crop.
The seed is sown in drills, with a space of 16 to 20 in. between
them, and the seedlings are thinned out two or three times. When
they are fully grown, the leaves are often 20 in. long, including the
stalk. The leaves are eaten boiled, like Borecole, and the ribs are
sometimes sent to table like Asparagus, Broccoli, or Chard Beet.

Heading Chinese Cabbage or Pe-Tsai {Brassica sinensis,
L.,var.}. Native of China. — Annual. — The Pe-tsai,like the Pak-choi,
differs entirely in appearance from the Cabbages of Europe, being
rather like a Cos Lettuce in aspect Like it, it sometimes forms a
long, rather full and compact
head, and sometimes grows in a
plain cluster of half-erect leaves,
disposed in the form of a funnel.
The ribs are not so white as
those of the Pak-choi ; they are
pretty thick and fleshy, and
the blade of the leaf, although
narrower at the base, is continued
down the whole length of the
stalk. The leaves are slightly
crimped, undulated at the edges,
and pale or light green. The
seed very much resembles that
of the Pak-choi. Its germi-
nating power lasts for five years.
The floral parts of the plant are
similar to those of the Pak-choi, and both plants are cultivated
and used in precisely the same manner.

There has also been imported from China a form of Brassica
sinensis with perfectly round dark green leaves, narrowed at the
base into the stalk, forming extremely dense tufts or rosettes ; the
flower-stems also are much shorter than those of the Pe-tsai or
the Pak-choi. This plant does not appear to be of much account
as a table vegetable. Botanicalfy, it exhibits in excess the charac-
teristics which distinguish Brassica sinensis from Brassica oleracea.

Improved Heading Chinese or Pe-tsai Cabbage. — A fine
strain of Chinese Cabbage, vigorous and rapid. It can be recom-
mended as a winter vegetable for mild climates. The leaves are
large, light green, and curved at the edge ; the rib is broad and
white, only slightly bare at the base. The first leaves are spreading
-and curved outwards, the later ones cover one another like those of
a Cos Lettuce, and form a fine tall head, weighing easily 4 lb. and
over. It should be sown during summer for use in the autumn

Improved Heading Chinese Cabbage.

172

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

and winter. Successive sowings may be made in order to lengthen
the period of production. Of a milder flavour than the European
sorts, it may be eaten either raw or as a salad, or cooked. Boiled,
minced, and seasoned with butter, it is as delicate in flavour as
boiled Endive. In our grounds on the Riviera it has done very
well ; sown in August and September, the heads were fit for use
from November to February.

CAPER-BUSH

Capparis spinosa> L. Capparidacece

French, Caprier. German, Kapernstrauch. Flemish and Dutch, Kapper-boom. Italian \
Cappero. Spanish, Alcaparra. Porttiguese, Alcaparreira.

A native of the south of Europe. — Perennial. — A shrub grow-
ing 3 to 5 ft. high, with numerous branches, bearing a pair of

hooked spines at the base
of each leaf-stalk. Leaves-
alternate, round, thick, and
glistening ; flowers about
2 in. in diameter, white,
with numerous violet
stamens, very pleasing in
effect ; seed large, kidney-
shaped, and gray-brown in
colour. There is also a
variety without spines,
from which the crop is
more easily gathered and
without danger of wound-
ing the hands. It is to
be preferred to the spined
one, and can be reproduced
from seed.

CULTURE. — The
Caper-bush can only be
cultivated profitably in the
climate of the Olive-tree,
where it is almost always planted in dry stony places, on embank-
ments, declivities, and other positions which are difficult to utilise
in any other way. It differs from most of the plants described
in this work in being really a wiry bush, but as the buds are so
much used in cookery, it is included here. In some of our Colonies
it could be easily grown ; in England, or cold countries, it only
lives when protected, and then with difficulty. We have, however,
grown and flowered it in brick rubbish in a large pot. The flower

Caper-bush

natural size ; detached branch,
\ natural size).

CAPER-BUSH 173

is very beautiful and distinct, especially to those who do not know
it, in countries where it grows freely.

USES.— Under the name of " Capers," the flower-buds, gathered
when they are as large as Peas, are pickled in vinegar. They are
valued in proportion to the smallness of their size.

CAPSICUM, or RED PEPPER

Capsicum annuum, L.

French^ Piment. German, Schotenpfeffer. Flemish and Dutch, Spaansche peper.
Italian, Peperone. Spanish, Pimiento. Portuguese, Pimento.

Native of South America. — Under cultivation this plant is
an annual, although several species may be perennial in warm
countries. — All of them have erect, branching stems, which become
almost woody. The leaves are spear-shaped or more or less
widened, terminating in a point, and narrowed at the base into a
more or less elongated stalk ; flowers white, star-shaped, solitary in
the axils of the leaves, and succeeded by seed-vessels very diversi-
fied in shape, with a somewhat fleshy skin, at first dark green
turning to red, yellow, or dark violet when ripe, always hollow,
and containing white, flat, kidney-shaped seeds, attached in great
numbers to a sort of fleshy cord. These seeds, and also the
interior tissue of the seed-vessel of most of the varieties, contain
an acrid juice which is very hot or burning to the taste. Their
germinating power lasts for four years.

CULTURE. — The Capsicum is grown in the same manner as the
Egg-plant (see Egg-plant). In the climate of Paris, all the varieties
require to be sown in a hot-bed, and even in the south of France
this practice is followed, at least in the case of the large-fruited
kinds. In Spain, where they are very extensively grown, they
are almost always forwarded by sowing in February under a
frame, the seedlings being planted out in the open air towards
the end of April.

Capsicums may in some warm they will germinate more quickly,

parts of England be successfully and the plants will be much stronger

grown in the open air, but where than when only placed on plain

large supplies are needed it is shelves, etc. As soon as the plants

advisable to have some under glass are large enough they should either

also, in case of failure of the out- be potted off singly into 4 in. pots,

door crop. The seeds should be or three plants placed triangularly

sown early in April, on a gentle in 6 or 8 in. ones. In the latter

hot-bed, or in pots or pans well case, it will be found best to only

drained and filled with sandy loam fill the pots three-parts full at first,

and leaf-mould in equal parts ; and with a view to earthing them up

if plunged in a gentle bottom heat when the soil becomes full of roots.

174

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

In order to have dwarf and healthy
plants, it is necessary to place them
as close to the glass as possible, in
a temperature of 65° to 70°, giving
them plenty of water and admitting
air freely. Plants that are potted
into 4 in. pots should not be
allowed to become pot-bound, but
be shifted into 6 or 8 in. ones.

Those plants that are to be turned
out of doors should be gradually
hardened off towards the latter end
of May, and in June they may be
planted out into a warm border
under a south wall. They should
be planted 10 or 12 in. apart, well
watered when necessary, and in the
event of cold weather setting in
should have some slight protection
afforded them ; and if the season
be favourable, they will ripen their
fruit from the end of August to the
middle of September. It is only in
the warm southern counties that we
have seen a good result with Cap-
sicums in the open air.

Where there are pits or frames
available for growing Capsicums,
they are the best places in which
to grow them. Frames recently
cleared of Early Potatoes answer
the purpose capitally. The plants
should be put in i ft. apart, kept
well watered at the roots, and be
frequently syringed overhead on
sunny afternoons, and shut up with
plenty of sun-heat. When in flower,
abundance of air must be given
them, to assist them to set their
fruit, after which time liberal sup-
plies of manure-water may be given
them with advantage. By adopting
this method it is astonishing the
quantities of fine large fruit that can
be gathered from a three-light frame.

A light, rich soil, composed of
turfy loam, rotted leaf-mould, and
cow-manure in equal parts, with a
little silver sand added, is best
suited to them; but when grown

and fruited in pots, a more solid
soil will be found best.

Well-ripened pods of Capsicums
will keep good for several years if
placed on a dry shelf, and the seed
will germinate at six or seven years
old if kept in the pods until it is
sown.

INSECTS, ETC. — The principal
enemies of the Capsicum are green
fly and red spider ; the fly may be
easily kept in subjection by fumiga-
tion, and the spider by a free use
of the syringe on the foliage, and
maintaining a warm, humid atmo-
sphere. Those planted out-of-doors
are generally most affected by red
spider. The best way in this case
is to give the plants frequent water-
ings overhead and at the roots, and
promote a free growth. Curl in the
leaf and fruit may often occur in
outdoor plants in the autumn ; this
is, however, more or less occasioned
by the cold nights, following days
of extreme heat. The remedy is to
shade slightly during the day, and
afford a warm covering at night. In
the many districts where the culture
of Capsicums may not be possible
in the open air, the pits, frames,
and houses, often little used during
the summer months, offer good
places in which to grow them.

In the London market-gardens
Capsicums are grown in Cucumber-
houses or similar places where a
brisk heat and plenty of moisture
are maintained. The seeds are
sown in pots in April, and when
large enough the young plants are
potted six or eight together in an
8 in. pot in good rich soil and put
on stages in a well-lighted position.
Plenty of water is given them
whilst growing. Some plant them
out in frames, and in this way
obtain abundance of fruit, but the
most profitable way is pot-culture
or frame-culture.

CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER

175

USES. — The seed-pods, green or ripe, are much used as season-
ing, especially in hot countries ; they are also pickled in vinegar.
When dried and ground, they make cayenne or red pepper. The
pods of some of the large kinds, which are very fleshy and not hot,
are used as vegetables in about the same way as Egg-plants. A
good instance of the slowness with which the use of vegetables
is made known is afforded by the large green mild variety of
Capsicum, which is so much eaten over a great part of Spain and
some of the adjoining French departments. It was carried by the
Spaniards into Naples during their dominion there in the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries, and has since remained in common use
there, without spreading farther. It makes an excellent salad,
having all the flavour of the Capsicum without pungency, and
enters into various light and pleasant dishes of the Italian and
Spanish cooks.

Common Capsicum. — A great many, if not all, of the culti-
vated varieties of Capsicum appear to have been derived from

this species, which is success-
fully cultivated in the climate
of Paris as an annual, with
the assistance of a little
artificial heat at the com-
mencement of its growth. It
grows pretty tall, has leaves
longer than broad, white and
rather small flowers, and
usually long seed-pods. The
acrid or burning principle in
the seed-pods is in inverse
proportion to their size. The
large kinds are usually mild
in flavour, the medium-sized
sometimes mild and some-
times the reverse, while the
small kinds are invariably
very pungently hot to the
taste.

Long Red Capsicum,
or Guinea Pepper. — This
variety, which is the most
extensively grown of all,
has all the characteristics of

Long Red Spanish Pepper.

growth just described. The seed-vessels are pendent, slender, long,
conical in shape, often curved and twisted, sometimes 4 to 5 in.
in length, and about I in. in diameter at the base. When ripe,
they afe a very fine brilliant red, and usually rather hot to the

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

taste, but in this respect great differences occur between one plant
and another, without any external indication to mark which are
very hot and which are mild in flavour.

Long" Cayenne Pepper. — Under the occasional name of Long
Cayenne Pepper, a sub-variety of the preceding kind is grown,
which has the seed-vessels narrower, slightly curved at the end,
pendent, seldom more than f in. in diameter and about 3 in. in

Long Cayenne Pepper.

Cardinal Pepper.

length, and always very hot to the taste. This plant, however,
should not be confounded with the true Cayenne Pepper, which is
a perennial and belongs to a different species, too tender for the
climate of France.

Cardinal Pepper. — A distinct strain of Long Red Pepper,
less than I ft. in height, of compact, bushy, vigorous growth,
characterised not only by its small stature but also by its earliness
and the great size of the seed-vessels. The latter are very red in
colour, slightly curved and undulated, and should be mild to the
taste.

Long Yellow Capsicum. — This variety only differs from the
Spanish or Guinea Pepper in the colour of the seed-vessels, which

CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER

177

are bright glistening yellow, and usually very hot
in flavour, seldom more than 4 in. long, slender
in shape, and often slightly curved.

Long Black Mexican Pepper. — Seed-vessel
thin, straight or slightly undulated, 7 to 9 in. in
length, shining black, as pungent as the Cayenne
Pepper. Quite distinct from the other sorts of
Capsicums.

Long Yellow Pepper.

Long Black Mexican Pepper

Chili Pepper, or Chillies. — The appearance of this variety is
very distinct from that of the other kinds, as it has a very
branching, rather low-
growing stem, the spread-
ing branches of which
form a dwarf broad bush,
seldom more than 16 to
20 in. high. Leaves small,
narrow, and numerous ;
flowers small and white,
succeeded by slender and
long-pointed seed-vessels
about 2 in. long and
scarcely f in. in diameter,
very often growing erect,
very bright scarlet when

Chili Pepper, or Chillies.

12

THE: VEGETABLE GARDEN

ripe, and very hot to the taste ; tihey are produced in the greatest

abundance, sometimes appearing to equal the leaves in number.

This is one of the earliest
and most productive kinds,
and is the most suitable
variety for gardens in the
north of France. In ad-
dition to its value as a
kitchen-garden plant, it
is also highly ornamental,
from the fine effect pro-
duced by the numerous
brilliant - coloured seed-
vessels relieved against
the green of the foliage.
The Coral Gem
Bouquet Pepper is a very
pretty American variety
of the above, producing
^ numerous short and regu-
larly shaped bright red
fruit, in bouquets resem-
bling clusters of coral.
Red Cluster Pepper. Red Cluster Pepper.

— A compact, much-
branching plant, with numerous small leaves, and an abundance

of flowers at the ends of the branches, succeeded by branches

of slender, pointed pods, curved, and bright red ; not so long as.

those of the Chili Pepper, but much

thinner and pungent.

Cherry Pepper. — Some botanists

make this a different species under the

name of Capsicum cerasiforme. In its

habit of growth, however, it comes

very close to the varieties of Capsicum

annuum, and is distinguished from the

Spanish or Guinea Pepper by the shape

of its seed-vessels, which are almost

spherical, with a diameter of nearly I in.

in all directions. They are extremely

hot to the taste, and somewhat late in

ripening. In support of the opinion

that this Pepper is simply a variety

of Capsicum annuum, it is often found

bearing seed-vessels more or less long in shape, and apparently^

reverting to the common Spanish or Guinea variety.

Cherry Pepper (branch,
fruit, ^ natural size).

CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER

179

Large Bell Pepper or Capsicum
(| natural size).

There is a sub-variety of it with yellow seed-vessels, veiy

seldom met with in cultivation,

and which, except in the colour

of its seed-vessels, exactly re-
sembles the ordinary Cherry

Pepper.

Cranberry Pepper.— A Chili

Pepper with round, erect, very

numerous fruits, smaller than in

the Cherry Pepper, and hardly

larger than big peas. They form

compact bouquets, and have a

very burning taste. This Pepper

possesses the same qualities as

the Chili Pepper, and can be used

as a condiment or as a plant for

ornament

Large Bell Pepper or

Capsicum. — A rather thick-set

plant, with large leaves of light

green ; branches short and stiff ;

flowers large, and often irregular in form ; seed-vessels blunt and

squared at the ends, with four deep furrows and four corresponding

prominent ridges along
the sides ; flesh rather
thick ; seeds few. This
Pepper is entirely free
from the acrid or burning
pungency which charac-
terises some other kinds.
The variety of it which
is most commonly grown
produces seed-vessels
about 2 in. in length and
the same in diameter.
This is a form that may
be eaten as a vegetable,
and a very pleasant ad-
dition it is, as the Italians
cook it. Of late years
this variety has been
partly superseded by the
Improved Bull-nose Cap-
sicum, described hereafter.
In the south of France
Improved Bull-nose Pepper. and in Spain a form is

1 8o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Ruby King Pepper.

scarlet ; fleshy, and mild in flavour,
seeds, which to the seed-
grower is a great drawback,
although an advantage in
cooking.

Ruoy King Capsicum.
— A very productive variety,
with large, red seed-vessels,
somewhat variable in shape,
square near the stalk, and
more or less tapering at the
top.

Golden Dawn Capsi-
cum. — There are several
known strains of Yellow
Bell-shaped Capsicums,some
of them with erect-growing
fruit, and others in which
the fruit is pendent. Of
these the Golden Dawn
Capsicum is the most in-
teresting and profitable to

cultivated which has the
seed-vessels much larger
and somewhat rounder
in shape, but with the
furrows very deeply
marked, especially to-
wards the end of the
seed-vessel. It is not
unusual, in this variety, to
see seed-vessels measuring
from 3 to 4 in. across
every way. It is a very
late kind, and does not
keep well.

Improved Bull-nose,
or Sweet Mountain,
Capsicum. — A smaller
plant, less branching, not
so leafy, and decidedly
earlier than the Large
Bell Capsicum. The seed-
vessels also are larger,
smoother, and fewer ; in
colour a very fine glossy
The pods contain very few

Golden Dawn Pepper.

CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER

iSi

Mammoth Golden Queen Pepper.

grow. It is a dwarf branch-
ing plant, with pendent

seed-vessels about ij in.

in length and of about the

same thickness ; in colour

a beautiful bright yellow,

sometimes orange. It is

fairly productive, and about

as early as the Sweet

Mountain Capsicum.

Mammoth Golden

Queen Capsicum. — A

strong plant, with abundant

leaves of dark green colour.

and slightly spoon-shaped.

For earliness it equals the

Golden Dawn Capsicum,

and surpasses the Sweet

Spanish Capsicum. It is

distinguished from both by

the greater size of its seed-
vessels.

Monstrous Capsicum. — The seed-vessels of this variety are

up to a certain point, intermediate between those of the Guinea

Pepper and those of the Bell Pepper, but they surpass both in size.

They are an irregular
ovoid or conical shape,
swollen in the part next
the stalk, and narrowed
at the other end, usually
more abruptly on one
side than on the other,
so that one side is
generally quite convex,
while the other is more
or less concave. The
appearance of the seed-
vessel is well indicated
by the name of Sheep's-
head Pepper, which is
sometimes given to it
Well grown, it measures
about 6 in. in length,
with a diameter of about
3 in. in the thickest part ;
Monstrous Capsicum (£ natural size> and, when ripe, it is a

1 82

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

fine deep red and perfectly mild in flavour, and therefore one of

the kinds that have a distinct value for use in the green state.
Elephant's Trunk Capsicum. — Seed-pod bright red, large,

thick. Broad, and more or less ribbed
at the base, tapering progressively
towards the end. Like most large-
fruited Peppers, it is mild in flavour.
In growth and productiveness it
resembles the Monstrous Pepper, from
which it has probably been derived.

Spanish Mammoth Capsicum.
— The seed-vessels of this variety
resemble those of the Monstrous
Capsicum in size, but their shape is
that of a cone, or rather a prism,
with rounded angles and truncate
at the end. They are 6 or 7 in. in
length, with a diameter of between
2 and 3 in. at the base, and rather
more than I in. at the extremity.
They are very handsome, and very
mild in flavour.

Of this variety there are two
forms, one of which has bright red,
and the other fine yellow seed-vessels.
Only in very warm climates do the

seed-vessels attain their full size. Very fair specimens of it,

which have come from Valencia or Algeria, may be seen in Paris,

in the shops where the produce of the south of Europe is sold ;

but it is almost impossible to grow anything like them in the

climate of Paris.

Red Tomato Capsi-
cum, or American Bonnet

Pepper. — This Pepper

has some resemblance to

the Bell Pepper, but the

seed - vessels are much

shorter, and are marked

with numerous ribs and

furrows, like some kinds

of Tomato. When ripe,

they are of a fine bright

red, and measure about

Spanish Mammoth Capsicum
(£ natural size).

Red Tomato, or Squash, Pepper.

2 in. across and about I in. in depth. This is not a very productive
kind, and is chiefly interesting on account of the singular shape
of the seed-vessels, which are usually mild in flavour and only hot

CAPSICUM, OR RED PEPPER

183

Early Dwarf Red Squash Pepper

in exceptional cases ; the flesh is always rather dry and thin.

There is a sub-variety with yellow seed-vessels.
Early Dwarf Red Squash

Capsicum. — Of dwarfer habit,

less leafy, and earlier than the

Tomato Capsicum, and therefore

a good substitute for it in places

where that fails to ripen its pods,

although the fruit is not perhaps

quite as regular in shape. The

fruit is sometimes pungent.
Celestial Capsicum. — Of

medium size, erect, and branch-
ing. It is something like the

Chili Pepper, but smaller and

not so bushy. The pods are

numerous, erect, and conical ;

in colour white, striped purple

at first, which gradually changes to yellow, and finally to

scarlet The contrasting colours of the pods on the same plant

are strangely effective.
Other varieties : —
Violet-coloured or Black Capsicum. — A vigorous plant, often

over 3 ft. in height, with violet stems. Fruit variable in shape,

sometimes short conical,
but oftenest four times
as long as broad ; deep
violet - red when ripe.
Very pungent.

Chinese Giant
Pepper. — A late, leafy
variety, with large square
fruit of a brilliant red.

Kaleidoscope Capsi-
cum.— This plant has
the fine shape of the
Celestial Pepper, with
spreading branches.
Fruit at first yellow-
white, changing to orange,
and then rose or pale red.
Procopp's Giant
Capsicum. — A kind of
celestial Capsicum. Monstrous Capsicum, the

fruits being very large, bumpy, and twisted like those of the
French varieties.

1 84

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Golden Upright Capsicum. — A small and early variety, with
upright square pods of beautiful yellow.

The names of Bird's-beak Pepper and Mad Pepper are some-
times given to the seed-vessels of the smallest varieties of Capsicum
annuum, which are remarkably hot to the taste ; but, properly
speaking, these names should be applied to the seed-vessels of
Capsicum frutescens, which only grows well in tropical climates

CARAWAY

Carum Carvi, L. Umbelliferce

French, Carvi, Cumin des pres. German, Feld-Kiimmel. Dutch, Karvij. Danishj
Kommen. Italian, Carvi. Spanish, Alcaravea. Portuguese, Alcaravia.

Native of Europe. — Annual or biennial. — Root as thick as
the thumb, long, yellowish, with white compact flesh, which has

a slight carrot flavour ;
leaves chiefly radical,
numerous, composed of
opposite whorled leaflets ;
leaf-stalk channelled,
hollow and undulated ;
stem straight, I to 2 ft.
high, branching, angular,
and smooth ; flowers small,
white, in umbels ; seeds
oblong, rather curved,
marked with five furrows,
aromatic, and of a light
brown colour. Their
germinating power lasts
for three years.

CULTURE.— The seeds
are often gathered in the
meadows, where the plant

^11^=^%^--—^ " grows naturally. When

Caraway. the plant is cultivated, the

seed is sown in drills, in

May or June. As soon as the seedlings are pretty strong, they
are thinned out, and nothing further is required, except to keep
the ground free from weeds, until the crop is gathered in July
of the year after that in which the seed was sown. By sowing
some of the seed as soon as it is ripe, plants may be raised which
will run to seed in the summer of the following year, and a month
or two may thus be saved in the cultivation of the crop, as
compared with the ordinary mode of sowing.

USES.— The root may be eaten, but is seldom so used. The

CARAWAY 185

leaves and young shoots are sometimes eaten. The seeds are used
for flavouring bread in Germany and other countries, and certain
kinds of cheese in Holland. They are of very ancient use, and are
still used in bread, pastry, cheese, sweets, and sauces.

CARDOON

Cynara Cardunculus, L. Composite

French, Cardon. German, Kardone, Cardy. Flemish, Kardoen Italian, Spanish, and

Portuguese, Cardo.

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — Notwithstanding the
different botanical names which have been given to them, the
Artichoke and the Cardoon appear to belong to the same species,
cultivation having, in the case of the latter, developed the leaf-
stalks, and, in the former, the receptacle of the flower. The
Cardoon is a larger plant than the Artichoke, and of a more
vigorous habit of growth, but the botanical characteristics and the
general appearance of both present the greatest analogy to each
other. In the Cardoon, the stem, which attains a height of from
4 to 6£ ft., is channelled and of a whitish hue ; the leaves are very
large, pinnated, slightly gray-green on the upper surface, and
almost white underneath, and armed, in several varieties, at the
angle of each division with very finely pointed yellow or brown
spines from about £ in. to over £ in. long. The very fleshy leaf-
stalks or ribs are the edible part of the plant. The flowers, which
have usually pointed scales, resemble those of the Artichoke, but
are smaller. The seed is thick, oblong, rather flat, and angular,
gray, striped or streaked with dark brown. Their germinating
power lasts for seven years.

CULTURE. — Unlike the Artichoke, which is almost always
propagated by means of offsets, the Cardoon is always raised
from seed, which is usually sown in May, in holes or " pockets "
filled with compost, and made at a distance of about a yard from
one another in every direction. It might be sown earlier in pans
on a hot-bed, but this practice has few advantages, as the Cardoon
has ample time to develop itself during the summer and autumn, and
is not a vegetable that is sought after before its natural season. The
ground must be kept very clean, and the plants should be plentifully
watered through the summer. As they will not have grown large
enough to touch one another before September, the ground between
the rows may be utilised in the meantime by sowing some other
crop there. The stalks or ribs are blanched by tying them together
and wrapping them round with straw, which is also tied up with
cord, bast, etc. The plants are then earthed up, and left so for
about three weeks, when the stalks or ribs will be in proper
condition for use ; but if left longer than this, they will be in danger

1 86

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of rotting. The Cardoon does not bear frost ; therefore, before
severe weather comes on, the, plants should be taken up and placed
in a vegetable-house for winter use.

The Cardoon, if treated in the
same manner as Celery, will gene-
rally be found to succeed ; the
only difference is in the mode
of blanching, which requires more
care than blanching Celery. Tho-
rough blanching is essential, in
order to bring out the delicacy of
flavour possessed by the Cardoon,
without which it is worthless. It is
better to have small heads well
blanched and crisp than to have
large rank ones half-blanched, and
consequently tough and strong. In
order to have good tender heads, it
is necessary to grow the plants from
the beginning to the time of blanch-
ing without a check, and this can
only be done by planting them in
deep, rich soil, and keeping them
well supplied with water at the
roots during dry weather.

Where Cardoons are in demand
early in winter, it is necessary to
sow seeds of them in heat early in
March, and to transplant in either
May or June, according to the
weather. For this purpose seed may
either be sown in small pots and
placed in a warm house, or sown in
drills 4 or 5 in. apart, in a gentle
hot-bed. Sowing in pots is, how-
ever, considered to be the best, in-
asmuch as the plants can be more
easily removed when required to be
hardened off, and they are not so
liable to a check when transplanted
as when lifted out of a bed. The
best-sized pots for the purpose are
4-in. ones, in each of which should
be sown four or five seeds, thinning
out the plants as they advance in
growth, and finally leaving only the
strongest one. They should be
placed close to the glass, where
they will get plenty of light and air

to keep them strong and stubby,
gradually hardening them off early
in May ; and towards the end of the
month they may be transferred to
the trenches in which they are to
grow, if the weather be favourable,
planting them from 2^ to 3 ft. apart
in the row. It is not well to sow
too early, as the plants become
pot-bound before they can be planted
out, and consequently checked in
growth. A second sowing may be
made in May in open trenches, and
the main sowing early in June.
The trenches should measure at least
4 ft. from centre to centre, and be
dug 2 ft. wide and 18 in. deep.
Into the bottom of these should be
placed 2 or 3 in. of good rotten
manure, which should be dug in
with a fork, and well incorporated
with the soil in the bottom of the
trench. The seeds should then be
sown in patches from 2^ to 3 ft.
apart, and slightly covered with fine
soil well watered, and flower-pots
should be placed over them until the
plants are up, when they may be
removed and the weakest plants
thinned out, eventually allowing
only the strongest to remain. The
subsequent treatment consists in
keeping them well supplied with
water at the roots until the end of
September, when they will have
nearly completed their growth, and
when they will require moulding up.
Those planted earlier will, however,
be ready before that time, and should
be earthed up as early as possible
— the aim in this case generally
being earliness rather than large
heads.

TYING AND EARTHING UP. —
Choose a fine day, when the foliage
of the plants and the soil are dry.

CARDOON

187

The leaves should be carefully
brought to an upright position, and
then placed neatly together and tied
with broad pieces of matting. A
good armful of dry hay or straw
should then be placed round the
base of each plant, and secured by
strong haybands being wound round
it, gradually narrowing to the top,
leaving only the tips of the leaves
bare. This done, the soil between
the trenches should be turned over
and well broken with the spade, and
afterwards placed equally and firmly
round the plants, forming an even
ridge by beating the sides with the
back of the spade. The plants will
be well blanched and fit for use four
or five weeks after earthing. Blanch-
ing may also be done by placing a

drainpipe over the plants, after tying
the leaves closely .together, the
apertures between the plants and
pipes being filled with sand. This
plan, though a good one, is too
expensive where many plants are
grown. Many lift their Cardoons on
the appearance of severe weather,
and place them in dry cellars or
sheds from which frost is excluded.
This is really unnecessary so far
as the plants are concerned, as
they can be effectively protected by
placing litter, etc., along the ridges ;
but there is one advantage in lifting
them, and that is, they may be got
at easily in hard weather, whereas
those left out-of-doors sometimes
cannot be dug out without much
labour.

USES. — The blanched stalks or ribs of the inner leaves are
chiefly used as a winter vegetable, as well as the main root, which
is thick, fleshy, tender, and of an agreeable flavour. Cooked in a
delicate way, it is ex-
cellent ; the degree of
tenderness to which it is
boiled should be studied,
and the sauce should not
be rank with salt and
spice.

Prickly Tours Car-
doon. — This is one of the
smaller varieties, and has
very thick and solid stalks
or ribs. On the other
hand, it is the most spiny
kind of all, which, however,
does not prevent it from
holding the first place in
the estimation of the
market-gardeners of Tours
and Paris.

Ivory-white Cardoon.
— Smaller and much less
spiny than the Tours
Cardoon, it has numerous

Very fleshy ribs of fine Prickly Tours Cardoon (•& natural size).

188

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

remarkable also for their
facility with which they

very
can be

quality and very tender ;
pale yellow colour and the
blanched.

Smooth Solid Cardoon.— This variety, which is almost spine-
less, is rather larger than the preceding, has longer leaves
and ribs, and grows from about 4 to 4^ ft. high. The ribs are
always broader than those of the Prickly Tours Cardoon, but
not so thick, yet they become hollow sooner, if the plant is allowed
to suffer ever so little from drought or want of nourishment. The
leaves are neither quite so much cut nor quite so whitish in hue as
those of the Prickly Tours variety.

Ivory-white Cardoon.

Long Spanish Cardoon. — A large variety, which is chiefly
grown in the south of Europe, with large, broad-ribbed leaves.
It is not spiny, but the ribs are not so solid as those of the preceding
varieties.

Artichoke-leaved Cardoon (Cardon Puvis). — A very distinct
spineless variety. Leaves very broad and large, not much cut, and
dark green. It is a vigorous plant, with broad ribs, usually half-
solid, and is chiefly grown about Lyons, where it attains about the
same height as the Smooth Solid Cardoon, but is broader in all its
Darts.

CARDOON

189

In some varieties the lower part of the leaf is more or less
coloured with purple or red ; such as the Red-stemmed and the

Smooth Solid Cardoon (^ natural size).

Artichoke-leaved Cardoon.

Purple Cardoon, but they have now gone out of cultivation, their
ribs generally being wanting in firmness, and their red or purple
colour being against them.

French, Carotte.

CARROT

Daucus Carota, L. Umbellifercz

German, Mohre, Gelbriibe. Dutch, Wortel.
Spanish, Zanahoria. Portuguese, Cenoura.

Italian, Carota.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — The root of this plant, when
artificially developed by cultivation, exhibits the widest differences
in shape, size, and colour. The leaves are very much divided, and
twice or thrice pinnate, the divisions being deeply cut and pointed.
The flowers, produced in umbels, are small, white, crowded together,
and with long linear bracts, and are borne on the top of a stem

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

from 2 to 5 ft. high, and do not appear until the year after the
seed is sown. The seeds are small, green or gray-brown, slightly
convex on one side and flat on the other,* channelled, and set
with recurved points or bristles on two of the ridges ; they have
a very strong, peculiar, aromatic odour. Their germinating power
lasts for five years.

CULTURE. — The cultivation of the Carrot is most simple. The
seed is sown in the open ground, where the crop is to be grown,
from February to autumn. The soil should be well prepared by
being manured, if possible, six months at least beforehand, and
deeply dug for the long-rooted varieties. As soon as the plants
appear, hoe, and continue to hoe as long as the crop remains in the
ground. This operation will be found all the easier if the plants are
sown in drills. The seedlings are thinned out two or three times,
leaving them more or less far apart according to the size of the kind
grown. The short and very early varieties are most usually sown
broadcast, either in the open air or under a frame. A first thinning-
out is made while the plants are young, and afterwards the removal
of such as have grown large enough for eating gradually makes
room for the slower-growing ones that are left. By making suc-
cessional sowings, crops of Carrots may be obtained from April to
June on hot-beds, and from July to November in the open ground.
In November the plants should be pulled up and stored for winter
use in a dry, sheltered place. Sometimes they are left in the
ground, covered with straw, leaves, or earth, and dug up as they
are required for the table. Plants sown late in the open ground,
and protected in severe weather by a covering of some kind, will
sometimes get through the winter, and yield an early crop in the
ensuing spring.

Carrots require a good, light, warm
soil, well trenched, and which has
been previously well manured. Sow-
ing must be done in dry weather ;
for, should a shower happen soon
after the seed is in the ground, the
crop will, in most cases, be a
failure, if not sown again imme-
diately. Drills ought to be pre-
ferred to broadcast sowing. On
account of its numerous bristles,
Carrot-seed is somewhat difficult to
sow with regularity ; therefore it is
mixed with sand or dry soil. This
difficulty is obviated now by buying
cleaned seed from seedsmen. Lay-
ing the seed in wet sand or wet
loam a few days before sowing, in

order to stimulate germination, was
once much practised; but this
method is now seldom employed.
It may, however, do under some
circumstances; for instance, in
forcing and sowing in the open
ground, where drought is feared.

FORCING. — The French Forcing
and the Scarlet Horn Carrots are
best for the purpose, but the former
is to be preferred. Prepare mild
hot-beds 2 1 ft. high in November or
December and 1 1 or 2 ft. in January
or February ; put on the frames,
cover the bed with 5 or 6 in. of
rich soil or mould, and, as soon as
the whole is sufficiently heated, sow
the seed broadcast,, cover with j in.

CARROT

191

of mould, smooth the surface, and
cover the glass with mats until the
seed comes up. Should the interior
get dry, give a slight watering,
but be careful of damp. When the
plants have four or five leaves, thin
them | in. apart ; admit air as often
as the temperature will allow it,
which will give strength to the
seedlings. Take care the heat does
not exceed 60° during the day and
50° at night, which may be easily
regulated by tilting the glass. In
the case of sharp frost, covering
with mats is preferable to artificial
heat. Shading, if needed, must not
be omitted. Sowing in November,
if carried on practically, will produce
fine young Carrots at the end of
February, which will last through
March and April. Subsequent sow-
ings— in December for March to
April, in January for April to May,
and, lastly, in February for April to
June — must be attended to as re-
quired by market-gardeners ; but,
in private gardens, the .first bed
should be made in November and
the second in January ; these will
afford an ample supply until new
open-ground Carrots are fit for use.
Where frames are not available, pre-
pare, at the beginning of February,
in some warm corner, a bed of hot
manure mixed with leaves, covered
with 4 or 5 in. of mould; sow the
seed and protect with mats supported
by sticks or other apparatus. As
soon as the seed comes up, remove
the covering every day as frequently
as the weather will permit, and the
crop will be ready from the end of
April to the end of May.

EARLY AND MAIN CROPS. — For
the first outdoor crop the seed should
be sown in February, on a warm,
dry border, in 5 in. drills; cover
the seed with | in. of fine mould ;
when the young plants have formed
a few leaves, thin them to i or 2 in.

apart, hoeing and watering as re-
quired. The crop should be ready
by the end of May, and will last
until the general crop comes in.
The best variety for this purpose is
the Scarlet Horn. In June sow the
same kind of Carrot again, if small
roots be preferred. Intermediate
Scarlet and Intermediate Nantes are
the best varieties for general crops.
Sow from March to May (the latter
month for winter Carrots), in well-
prepared soil, in 9 to 12 in. drills,
J in. deep. As the Carrots make
their appearance, hoeing, weeding,
watering, and thinning them to | in.
apart should be duly attended" to.
As soon as the plants attain the
size of a lead pencil, thin them to
3 or 4 in. apart without hesitation.
Thinning generally receives too
little attention in every country; and
the Carrots, crowded when young,
are left to be taken up for use when
they have attained sufficient size.
In most cases the ground gets dry
and hard, and thus prevents the
lifting of the roots, which are then
left until the autumn, when only
small, useless Carrots are the result.

AUTUMN SOWING. — In August and
September, select a warm border.
Sow French Forcing or Scarlet Horn
Carrot, as for the early crop. The
roots must remain in the ground the
whole winter ; but if well protected
and the bed covered with i in. of
mould, healthy little Carrots will be
ready from February until May.

STORING. — In October, before
the frosts occur, and on a fine day,
take up the crop, cut the leaves | in.
from the top, clear the roots from
soil, and store them at once in a
cold shed or cellar; there arrange
them in tiers, spreading between
each a layer of sand or dry soil, up
to the height of 3 ft., the length
being determined by the quantity
fo roots ; two boards will secure the:

192

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

ends of the pile. By this means
the roots can be easily and often
examined, and those that are decayed
removed. On the first symptoms of
vegetation appearing, pull down the
pile and build it again, and this
method will enable the Carrots to
be kept in a good state as late as
possible. Another method. — In open
ground, in a dry place, remove the
soil to the depth of i ft., trench the
bottom, adding some sand if pos-
sible ; plant the roots vertically close
to each other, and protect from frost
and from wet. The objection to
this plan is, that decay cannot be
attentively watched, and vegetation
is much more liable to be excited,
to prevent which the roots must be
lifted and again buried. Heaps
should be avoided in the case of
garden varieties.

DISEASES AND INSECTS. — The
Carrot is a prey to many enemies.
Perhaps the worst to be feared is
the rust, and this occurs generally
from the roots being grown in wet
soil, or having suffered from dryness
in summer. Too much fresh manure
will also provoke it There is no
effective remedy for it, but salt and
quicklime applied to the ground
before sowing is an excellent pre-
ventive as well as a fertiliser. At
spring-time, in hot-beds or borders,
the young plants of the first sowings
are sometimes entirely destroyed by
a small spider. Gardeners watching
young Carrots are surprised the next
day to see that every plant has
disappeared. Soot spread over the
drills, or the entire bed, will effec-
tually prevent such a disaster. Snails
and slugs are very fond of young
Carrots, one snail or slug being able

to destroy a small bed in a single
night. Quicklime spread over the
young plants (which it does not
injure), and around the beds, will
secure the crops, for one ap-
plication effectually destroys these
marauders. — D. G.

The Carrot-louse attacks the
young plants almost as soon as they
appear, often doing much damage,
like the Turnip-fly, if growth be re-
tarded at the beginning. Then the
Carrot-grub is even more destructive,
boring into the roots, and often ruin-
ing a crop. Wireworm, millepeda^
and several other enemies sometimes
do much mischief.

Early Carrots are largely supplied
for the London market from France :
they are tender and delicious, and
often far better than those obtained
from the London market-gardens.
Seed of early varieties is sown from
February to March, after which the
main crop is put in, and the plants
are not thinned out quite so much
as other coot-crops. The Early Horn
is the kind used for early sowings ;
and, when in good condition, they
sell well in the market. In our
market-gardens the Long Surrey
and Long Orange are the chief kinds
grown for main crops, and roots of
these are furnished by hundreds of
tons all through the winter months.
Some market growers force the Early
Horn on hot- beds and in frames, in
order to have them ready for use
in March or April, and these realise
good returns. Some also sow beds
in a warm position in August and
September for winter use. If the
weather is mild, fine little roots are
obtained, and they sell readily at
good prices.

USES. — The roots are well known and largely used, both as a
table vegetable and as forming excellent food for cattle. The seed
is employed in the manufacture of some kinds of liqueurs, and the
juice of the Red varieties is used for colouring butter.

CARROT

193

Parisian Forcing Carrot.— The earliest and the shortest of
all Carrots. It is a special strain selected from the French Forcing
Carrot with a view to its cultivation in rotted manure-mould under
glass, which is the only
way to cultivate it ; is
often broader than long,

is smooth, very clean, with .KHERBJE 'JiMIIJ-E-^&n
a fine neck. The leaves
are light and thin, the skin
smooth, and the colour
rather lighter than that
of the French Forcing ^P
Carrot.

French Horn, or
Earliest Short Horn,
Carrot. — Root almost

Pansian Forcmg Carrot-

globe, or slightly top-shaped, of a half-transparent orange-red
colour, paler towards the point ; neck very fine and very
short ; leaves very few. This variety, which is generally pulled
when it has only four or five leaves, is used in open-air
culture for very early or very late sowings, but is especially
suitable for forcing under a frame, both on account of its
earliness and the shortness of its root.

The forcing of the Carrot
demands no particular care,
except that of pressing the soil
down well after sowing the seed,
and giving the plants as much
air as possible while they are
growing.

Early Scarlet Dutch Horn
Carrot.— Root nearly twice as
long as broad, thicker at the
neck than at the tip, which is
generally blunt; neck fine; leaves
,. very few, yet not so few as those
\\t ' of the preceding kind. , This is
an excellent Carrot for open-air
culture, and, in certain cases,
may be found suitable for forcing.
Both it and the preceding kind
are most usually pulled for table
use while they are young, and
before they have attained their
full size — a practice which might well be carried out with regard
to all Carrots for the table.

13

Dutch Horn Carrot.

194

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Blunt-rooted Guerande, or Ox-heart, Carrot. — A very distinct
variety, remarkable for great size and quickness of growth. It
might be described as an enormous Dutch Horn Carrot, for often

its length does not much
exceed its thickness, which
measures sometimes 3^ in.
in diameter. The flesh is
very tender and delicate,
and a beautiful orange-red,
paler at the centre ; not,
like the Nantes Carrot, a
coreless variety. The
foliage is light and rather
scant. It is an excellent
kitchen Carrot, but requires
a light, substantial, well-

Blunt-rooted Guerande Carrot.

dunged soil and moisture.
Well grown, it is one of the
best Carrots for the table.
English Horn, or Early Half-long Scarlet, Carrot.— Root
spindle-shaped, two and a half or three times as long as broad ;
neck often tinged with green or brown, level with the surface of
the soil, and slightly hollowed out around the base of the leaf-
stalks ; leaves somewhat stouter than those of the preceding kind.
A good, productive, and pretty early variety, grown on a large
scale in many localities for market supply.

James's Intermediate Carrot. — This variety is evidently an
improved form of the Half-long Scarlet Carrot, but as it has now
been a good while in
very general cultivation,
it has undergone a con-
siderable amount of
modification, in conse-
quence of which it ex-
hibits at the present day
numerous diversities of
character in different
districts. In a general
way it may be described
as a handsome Half-long
Carrot, with a long,
pointed, well - coloured
root, vigorous and rapid
in growth, and having a stoutish neck, as might be expected
from a variety which is as much grown in fields as in gardens.
It is very productive, and much in request for field culture.

English Horn, or Half-long Scarlet, Carrot.

CARROT

195

There is a green-necked sub-variety of it, but the root of the
true James's Intermediate is entirely red. It is the most ex-
tensively cultivated Half-long Carrot
in England, both in fields and
gardens, but in many cases some
of the Continental kinds might be
advantageously grown instead of it

Half-long Blunt Scarlet Carrot.
— This may be considered as a variety
of the Pointed kind. The root is
not so slender, and ends in a blunt
cone, but there is no apparent differ-
ence in the leaves or in any- other
respect. The Blunt-rooted variety is
to be preferred for kitchen-garden
culture. It may be regarded as the
form from which have been derived
in succession the Early Scarlet Horn
and the French Forcing (or French
Horn) Carrot, both of which, like the
present variety, are characterised by
the blunt, rounded end of the root,
the fineness of the neck, and the
paucity of leaves. There seems to
be a sort of reciprocal dependence and an intimate correlation
between the blunt form of the end of the root and the fineness
of the neck in the Carrot tribe. Those varieties which have few
leaves and a very short and very fine neck have almost invariably
a blunt-ended root, and vice versa. Great earliness also is generally

found to accompany these
physical characteristics.

Early Nantes Carrot.
— Root almost perfectly
cylindrical, not wide at
the neck, and with a
blunt, round point ; skin
very smooth ; neck fine,
hollowed out around the
base of the leaf-stalks ;
leaves not very large ;
flesh entirely red, very
sweet and mild, and
almost devoid of the broad
yellow heart or core which
is seen in most of the other kinds of Red Carrots. Although this
variety only recently began to be distributed, it has already

James's Intermediate Carrot.

Half-long Blunt Scariet Carrot

196

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Half-long Scarlet Nantes Carrot.

become one of the most generally cultivated of all the kitchen-
garden varieties of Carrots, and indeed, by a remarkable combination

of good qualities, it justifies
the preference which is given
to it. It excels all the other
kinds of Half-long Carrots in
earliness, without being inferior
to them in productiveness. Its
roots, which are very clean-
skinned and even in shape, are
easily pulled, and keep well ;
and, lastly, its somewhat deeper
colour and freedom from heart
or core cause it to be preferred
to all the other kinds for table
use. For all these reasons the
Early Nantes Carrot deserves
to be very generally grown ;
but it requires a certain amount
of care, for, like all improved and early varieties, it suffers more
than the ordinary coarser kinds from want of nourishment and
watering. It only attains its full quality in a mellow, deep soil
which has been previously well enriched with vegetable mould,
compost, or manure, and which is sufficiently substantial and
kept moist by frequent waterings. The roots are more regular
in shape and smoother in skin in proportion
as the soil is soft and free from stones and
gravel. Any attention given to the cultivation
of this Carrot will be amply repaid by a more
abundant crop, and especially by the finer
appearance and improved quality of the roots.
In the neighbourhood of Nantes another
Half-long variety of Carrot is grown, which has
a very blunt-pointed root, sometimes broader
at the end than at the neck, like the Jersey
Navet Turnip. This variety is larger than the
Nantes Carrot which we have just described,
and also differs from it in having a very large
yellow heart or core.

Early Carentan Carrot. — A very distinct,
slender, almost cylindrical variety, with a very
fine neck, and very small and few leaves ; skin
glossy, smooth ; flesh red, without any heart Early Carentan Carrot
or core. This variety can be sown pretty thick, '(* natural size)-
and is consequently very well adapted for frame culture. It does
best when grown in very rich soil or compost. Being a fancy

CARROT

197

kind, it is not suitable for cultivation on a large scale, but it is
one of the varieties known for perfection of shape and fineness
of quality.

Luc Half-long Carrot. — Root rather broad at the neck and
a little longer than that of the preceding kinds ; the lower end is
usually more blunt than pointed, although the whole root narrows
gradually from the neck to the lower extremity. This is an early
and productive variety, and is suitable for spring culture in the
open ground. It is not entirely free from heart or core, although
the differences between the central and the exterior layers of the

Luc Half-long Carrot,

Chantenay Half-long Carrot.

flesh are not so clearly defined in it as they are in many other
varieties.

Chantenay Half-long Carrot.— Although belonging distinctly
to the class of the Half-long Stump-rooted Carrots, this variety
differs from all the others by its large volume and by being
completely rounded at the end; in fact, it is a Guerande Carrot
of considerably longer size. It resembles the Luc Carrot, but is
larger, thicker, more rounded, and a darker red. As with the
Guerande Carrot, the inner part of the root is a little lighter
than the outer. It is delicate in flavour, juicy, and sweet.

Half-long Danvers Orange Carrot. — It is difficult to give a
precise description of this variety of Half-long Carrot, which comes
to us from the United States of North America. For several years

198

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

we have been comparing this Carrot with the European sorts,
and we have seen it varying considerably in its characteristics.
We refer to trials made with seeds imported from America every
season. At first it was a Half-long Pointed Carrot, of medium
thickness, more pale orange than red, much like that of the Pale
Red Flanders Carrot. It is still a
slender half-long root, but well coloured,
and with a blunt end very like our
Luc Carrot. The leaves are rather
short, finely cut, and rather bronzy.

St. Valery Carrot.— A large hand-
some variety, the connecting-link be-
tween Half-long and Long varieties of
Red Carrot. The root, which is very

Half-long Danvers Carrot.

St. Valery Carrot (J. natural size).

straight, very smooth, and bright red, is very broad at the neck,
where it is frequently 2 to 3 in. in diameter, so that the entire
length, which may be 10 to 12 in., is only about four times the
diameter, which would almost bring it into the category of the
Half-long varieties. It is suitable for field culture, but does best
in light, rich, well-dug soil. The leaves are remarkably slight
for the size of the root. This fine variety was for a long time
grown only in its native locality, but since it became better known
it has grown in favour ; for, with a handsome appearance and good
quality, it is a good kitchen-garden as well as a good field Carrot,
combining great productiveness with a iine regular shape and
thick, sweet, tender flesh.

CARROT

199

Long Surrey, or Long Red, Carrot. — Root long, narrowing
gradually to the lower extremity, five or six times as long as broad,
not unusually I ft. to 14 in. in length ; neck broad, flat, or slightly
hollowed out around the base of the leaf-stalks ; leaves stout and
numerous. This variety, which often attains a considerable weight,
is very much used, both for field and market-garden culture. It
requires a rather deep soil, but in return yields a very remunerative
crop. By protecting the plants with a covering of straw or leaves,

Long Red Carrot.

Coreless Long Red Carrot (£ natural size).

they may be left in the ground for a long time in winter, and taken
up as they are wanted for table use.

Coreless Long Red Carrot— This Carrot rather resembles
the Early Nantes variety, but is very strikingly longer, and
consequently more productive. It is almost cylindrical in shape,
blunt-rooted, very fine in colour, very melting, sweet, and fine in
flavour. This is especially an early small-leaved kitchen-garden
variety.

Red Long Smooth Meaux Carrot. — A fine strain of kitchen-
garden Carrot ; it is cylindrical in shape, smooth, thicker than the
Coreless Carrot, and not ring-marked. A very good variety for
market-gardeners. It requires a deep, mellow, moist, and rich soil.
In having a core, it differs also from the preceding variety, which
it resembles in other ways. Like most of the highly improved

2OO

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

stump-rooted varieties, the Meaux Carrot has a very light and
scant foliage.

Altringham Carrot.— This variety, which is of English origin,
has been for a long time known and valued in France. It is a very
long, slender kind, with the flesh entirely red (like that of the
Coreless varieties) and of excellent quality. The neck, instead of
being flattened, or even hollowed, as in many other kinds, is raised
in the form of an obtuse cone. The
root is usually of a bronzy or violet
colour on the over-ground portion, which
is from I to 2 in. in length. The length
of the whole root is often 20 in. or more,

Red Long Smooth Meaux Carrot.

Altringham Carrot (i natural size).

and its diameter is relatively small, the length being equal to eight
or ten times the diameter. Its surface exhibits a series of alternate
ridges and depressions, having the appearance of being tightly
bound around with a thin cord. This Carrot requires a rich and
deeply dug soil, and, from its peculiar shape, it is liable to be
broken when pulled. For these two reasons it is not so generally
cultivated as it deserves to be on account of its good quality and
great productiveness.

Of late years the English growers have considerably altered the
characteristics of their Altringham Carrot, and the old form is now

CARROT

201

difficult to find in the trade. The new form is much thicker,
shorter, and smoother. This is an improvement, as it makes the
lifting of the roots much easier.

Long Blood-red Carrot. — Root long, thin, shapely, dark red.
The top scarcely seen above the ground. The flesh is tender and
dark orange-red. The leaves are light, small, and the stalks are
usually tinged with purple. The Blood-red Carrot is a half-late

variety, specially suited
for autumn use. Given
care, it keeps in con-
dition through the
winter. This variety
is remarkable for the

Long Blood- red Carrot.

Flanders, or Sandwich, Carrot
(£ natural size).

intensity of its colour, which forms one ot its principal merits.
The skin itself becomes almost purple with exposure to light for
any length of time.

Flanders, or Sandwich, Carrot. — A kind of Half-long Red
Carrot, much used in field culture on account of its great pro-
ductiveness. Leaves abundant ; neck flat and broad ; root almost
entirely sunk in the soil, rather bright orange-red, and regularly
narrowed from neck to point. It is only about three times as long
as broad, the entire length being about 8 in., with a diameter of
between 2 and 2\ in. at the neck. The chief merit of this variety

2O2

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

is that it is large, productive, early to form, and keeps well.
Formerly quantities of it were sent to the Paris market from
Flanders in waggons at the close of winter, when the Scarlet Horn
and the Long Red Carrots were beginning to grow scarce. It is
now less frequently seen there since the Parisian cultivators
discovered that by successional sowings fresh Carrots can be raised
at all seasons.

Orange Belgian, or Long Orange Green-top, Carrot. — This
very hardy and productive kind is more generally grown in the

Orange Belgian, or Long Orange Green-
top, Carrot (i natural size).

Long Lemon Carrot.

fields than in the kitchen-garden. The root is at least six times as
long as broad, pale orange on the underground portion, and quite
green above-ground, or for about one-fourth of its entire length ;
hence it is indifferently termed the Green-top Red, or Green-top
Yellow, Carrot. It keeps well, and is considered to be very
nutritious.

Long Lemon Carrot. — Root rather slender, four or five times
as long as broad, almost entirely sunk in the ground, and bright
yellow, except at the neck, where it is slightly tinged with green.

CARROT

203

It is extensively grown in the fields in the north-west of France, but
is not without merit as a kitchen-garden plant, especially when
young, as when it has advanced in growth it sometimes becomes
hard and almost woody at the heart. The flesh is yellow. When
it is desired to be used in winter without becoming hard, it should
be sown rather late — about the end of May or the first days in
June. This is one of the oldest French varieties of Carrot. We
find it described in old horticultural works before there was any
mention made in them of the Red or Orange varieties. In the
present day these are most generally preferred ; and the place
which the Lemon Carrot
formerly occupied in
cultivation for market
supply is now filled by
the Common Long Red
Carrot, which, in its turn,
is being largely super-
seded by the St. Valery
Long Red variety.

Short Lemon Carrot.
— Root scarcely twice or
thrice as long as broad,
conical in shape, and
sunk in the ground ; neck
flat and wide ; rather
pale yellow throughout.

Yellow Interme-
diate, or Long Yellow
Stump-rooted, Carrot.
— The root is almost
cylindrical, and very
blunt at the end ; the
flesh and skin a true
yellow. It is a good
Carrot grown on a large
scale for cattle-feeding, and is also an excellent kitchen-garden
Carrot, despite its light colour. It is very productive, and although
very sweet, it keeps well during the winter.

Improved Wild Carrots.— About the year 1830 M. Vilmorin,
sen., commenced several cultural experiments with the view of
obtaining from the Wild Carrot enlarged and edible roots similar to
those of the cultivated varieties. In the course of a few years, his
sowings yielded him a certain proportion of plants with fleshy roots
of various colours. Some of these forms remained constant for
several years, reproducing themselves from seed with great
regularity. The most remarkable of them were the Improved

Long Yellow Stump-rooted Carrot.

204 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

White Wild Carrot, which was rather like the Breteuil White Carrot,
and had a fine flavour and odour, but was deficient in sweetness ;
and the Improved Red Verrieres Wild Carrot, which was not
productive, but was very regular in shape, with a very fine neck
and remarkably slight leaves. These varieties, however, after
having been grown for some time as a scientific curiosity, did not
come into general cultivation, and were eventually discarded.

Amongst the varieties which do not come under any of the
strains which have just been described, we may mention the
following : — Bardowick Carrot. — A fine variety of Long Red
Carrot, almost free from core, and somewhat resembling the
Altringham Carrot. The Dutch variety named De Duwick is a
rather shorter kind than the Half-long Red varieties, yet bears no
analogy to the Early Scarlet Horn. It is a pretty good kind for
field culture, but the Blunt-pointed Half-long varieties are much
better. The Long Orange Carrot is a variety grown in the
United States of America, of a lighter colour, greater length, and
with a broader neck than the Common Long Red Carrot.

The English varieties Matchless Scarlet and Scarlet Perfection
come very near the St. Valery Carrot. They are, however, a little
thinner and more elongated.

There are several varieties of large white Carrots which we need
not describe, as they are grown exclusively for cattle-feeding.

CAULIFLOWER

Brassica oleracea Botrytis, D.C.

French, Chou-fleur. German, Blumenkohl, Carviol. Flemish and Dutch, BloemkooL
Italian, Cavolfiore. Spanish, Coliflor. Portuguese, Couve-flor.

In the different varieties of Cabbage known as Cauliflowers, it
is the floral organs, or, more properly speaking, the flower-stems,
which have been artificially modified in size and appearance in the
course of cultivation. The flowers themselves have, for the most
part, been rendered abortive, and the branchlets along which they
grow, gaining in thickness what they lose in length, form a sort of
regular corymb with a white fleece-like surface, which is rarely
broken by a few small leaves growing through it. These floral
branchlets, having become large, white, thick, and very tender,
produce nothing but a homogeneous mass, so to say, and the
rudiments of the flowers are only represented by the minute and
almost imperceptible prominences which are found on the upper
surface of what is termed the " head " of the Cauliflower.

CULTURE.— It may be said that the cultivation of the Cauli-
flower is one of the most simple processes, and, at the same time,
one of the most difficult to carry out well. In fact, with the

CAULIFLOWER 205

exception of the spring Cauliflowers, which are sown in autumn and
wintered under frames, it is grown as an annual, which is sown in
the spring in the open ground, and yields a crop in the course of
the same year, without requiring any attention whatever except
frequent waterings. But, on the other hand, it is certain that, in
order to obtain a fine crop, the cultivation of the Cauliflower
requires a certain amount of skill and tact which no mere cultural
directions can supply. The " head " will not be regularly formed
unless the growth of the plant proceeds rapidly and without any
check from beginning to end, and the greatest watchfulness and
most assiduous care sometimes fail to ensure this.

At Paris there are three principal seasons or successional periods
for growing Cauliflowers. - In the first, the seed is sown in autumn,
and the crop comes in in spring. In the second, the seed is sown
late in autumn or in winter, the crop, in this case, not coming in
until the following summer. In the third, the seed is sown in
spring, and the crop is gathered in the autumn of the same year.
Those which are sown in autumn, for the spring crop, are sown
either in the open ground, or (most usually) on a hot-bed, in
September. In the course of the autumn, the seedlings are pricked
out under a cold frame, or in the open ground in a border with a
warm aspect, where they are protected with cloches or bell-glasses.
In January or February they are transplanted to a hot-bed, six
plants to each light. The heads obtained in this way are the first
that appear in the market in May. Almost at the same time that
the plants are removed to the hot-bed, other plants are placed in
cold frames ; the crop from these is naturally later, and comes in
in succession to that which was obtained from the hot-bed.

The Cauliflowers of the second season are sown in the beginning
of January, in a hot-bed ; the plants are pricked out into another
hot-bed, and are not transferred to the open ground until they are
pretty strong, about the end of March or the beginning of April, at
which time they have no further need of artificial heat ; the crop
from these comes in about the end of June or the beginning of
July. Successional sowings are made in February and March, and
the seedlings, reared under frames or bell-glasses, are planted out
a little later than those which were sown in hot-beds. This second
season, in which the plants are pushed forward by special treatment
and artificial heat, produces by far the largest quantities of Cauli-
flowers that are sent to the Central Market at Paris.

Lastly, in the third season, the entire growth of the plant is
effected, without the help of artificial heat, in the open ground.
The seed is sown in May or June in a sheltered or shaded border,
and the seedlings are planted out permanently in July, without
having been previously pricked out. This method, which at first
sight appears the simplest of all, does not always produce the best

206

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

results, owing to the difficulty of protecting the plants from
excessive heat and drought in the early stages of their growth,
and, later on, from early frosts, which often mar the formation of
the heads.

In England this is a summer
and autumn vegetable, and at that
season fills the position occupied by
the Broccoli in winter and spring.
The most valuable crops are the
early ones in spring and the late
in autumn. In summer they are
frequently unsatisfactory during hot
weather, and when Peas and French
Beans are plentiful, they are not so
much in demand.

The first sowing is in a general
way made about August 25th, the
time being varied according to
latitude, as experience may direct.
In some places the first week in
September may be early enough.
Select an open situation where the
land is in good condition from a
previous manuring. If the weather
is hot and the land very dry, stir
the surface for a foot or so in depth
with the fork, and give water
enough to moisten it. Draw drills
9 in. apart, and sow the seeds
(which should have been obtained
from a good source) thinly. Cover
with nets to keep off birds ; and if
the weather continue hot, shade a
little by laying a few branches with
the leaves attached over the net.
As soon as the plants are up and are
large enough to move safely (which
will be early in November), prepare
one or more frames by placing a
layer of coal-ashes in the bottom,
and on the ashes, which should be
beaten down firmly with the back
of the spade, place 5 in. of light
rich soil. Into the bed so formed
dibble the plants 3 in. apart, and
give water to settle the soil round
them. During the winter the frames
should be fully ventilated when the
weather is mild, keeping out cold

rains. In times of severe frost,
scatter a little dry litter or fern
over the lights. Sometimes Cauli-
flower-plants pass through the winter
safely pricked out at the foot of a
south wall, or on the south side
of a thick hedge, and sheltered in
severe weather by placing evergreen
branches among them. Another
way of raising early plants, and an
excellent one, is to sow in heat
about January ist, and treat the
plants as we should treat tender
annuals. The seeds are sown in
pans covered lightly with sandy soil,
and placed on a shelf in a house
where the temperature is about 60°
at night. When the young plants
appear, they will occupy a position
in the full light near the glass, and
when large enough will be pricked
off into 6o-sized pots, one plant in
each pot. The soil and the pots will
be taken into the house to warm a
little before the potting takes place.
The plants will be grown on in the
same temperature till March, when
they will be well established ; they
should then be hardened off, and
early in April planted out. This
plan will not give more trouble than
is taken every spring with the same
number of bedding plants, and they
do not bolt, as sometimes happens
with the plants raised in August.
Still another way of raising the first
early Cauliflower-plants may be
described as intermediate between
the cool treatment first mentioned
and the warm plan last described.
About the middle of October sow the
seeds in boxes and place in a frame
which rests on, say, an exhausted
Melon or Cucumber bed, and which
still retains a little of the summer's

CAULIFLOWER

207

warmth. Keep close till the seeds
germinate, then give air freely, and
when the plants are large enough,
pot off singly in small pots. Winter
on a shelf in the lightest part of the
greenhouse.

PLANTING UNDER HAND-LIGHTS.
— These are old-fashioned but excel-
lent contrivances. About March,
acting as all must according to the
character of the weather, arrange
the lights for the early crop in a
warm, sunny, sheltered position,
where the soil is deep and rich, 3 ft.
apart each way, and plant four
plants under each light. As the
season advances, ventilation will be
required, either by placing the lights
on bricks, or, if the lights have
movable tops, by altering their
position. A few early Cauliflowers
may generally be obtained by
planting in front of a south wall,
almost close to it, to take advantage
of the sun's warmth, which accumu-
lates there both on the soil and in
the air. Such plants may be further
assisted by a ridge of soil in front,
and when the weather gets warm,
later in the season, this ridge of soil
will help to confine the soakings of
liquid manure which good culti-
vators will obtain by hook or by
crook for their early Cauliflowers.

SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS should be
made in March in heat. A few
seeds may be sown among any other
young crops, such as Early Horn
Carrots, as the Cauliflowers will be
transplanted before any harm can be
done. If it is not convenient to do
this, sow the seed in a box, and place
it where there is some artificial
warmth, harden off, and plant out
as seems necessary. The Autumn
Giant should be sown in March
for late summer and autumn use.
This is a very valuable Cauliflower
for hot seasons. It is very difficult
with any other sort to secure close,

firm hearts in August and Septem-
ber, but the cross of the Broccoli,
that is so apparent, and which gives
this kind its hardiness, almost makes
it heat and drought proof — hence
its great value, not only in the late
autumn, but also through the season
from August up till Christmas. Sow
the Walcheren in April, and again
in May and June for autumn. This,
with the Autumn Giant, will furnish
a supply till the winter Broccoli
turn in. In some situations Cauli-
flowers are very uncertain ; they
must have plenty of rich manure.
In such, to get them good, I have
opened a trench 4 ft. wide all across
a quarter, worked in plenty of
manure, then drawn three drills at
equal distances apart in the trench,
and sown seeds of the Walcheren
thinly. If it is necessary to sow in
trenches, this is a better plan than
having single rows, as the better soil
and manure being in bulk will retain
the moisture longer, and the plants
will do better. When the seedlings
are strong enough to transplant,
single them out, leaving the strongest,
and for this crop they may with
advantage be much thicker than
we should plant them generally.
Small, white, close hearts are in the
hot weather more useful than large
ones, which nearly always develop a
tendency to open. Some of the
plants thinned out may be useful if
planted under a north wall in rather
deep drills. This is acting on the
principle of never throwing a chance
away. The crop in the trench had
better be started about the first or
second week in June, and if well
attended to, and grown without a
severe check, they will be sure to
produce nice useful hearts at a very
small expense. And it is worth
something to feel that, under all
circumstances, we may rely upon any
particular crop turning out right.

208

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

WATERING AND MULCHING. —
Mulching with manure in hot sum-
mers is to this crop invaluable, and,
except in extreme cases, will obviate
the necessity for much watering,
though, of course, a good soaking of
liquid manure in a dry season will
never come amiss. The three
sowings in the open air in April,
May, and June, with the previous
sowings under glass, will, if planted
out in the usual order when the plants
are large enough, furnish a supply
from June till Christmas, if need be ;
indeed, I have had both the Wal-
cheren and the Autumn Giant till
after Christmas in good condition in
a cold pit. The distances between
the rows, as well as the distance
between the plants in the rows, will
vary according to the situations and
seasons, but 2 ft. between the rows,
and 1 8 in. separating the plants
from each other in the rows, may be
taken as a good average distance. —
E. H.

CULTURE IN MARKET GARDENS.
— In London, it is hardly possible
to overstock the market with this
vegetable. It has the advantage
over Broccoli in this particular, viz.
that pickle merchants are always
ready to buy up any quantity of
Cauliflowers in summer, whilst for
this purpose scarcely any Broccoli is
used. In May, before Peas and
Beans can be had at reasonable
prices, good Cauliflowers realise
good profits to the grower. Early
Cauliflowers are usually grown under
hand-lights, or are protected by
old baskets or small boughs of ever-
green trees. To provide plants for
this purpose, a sowing is made on a
well-sheltered piece of ground or a
warm open quarter, in beds, in the
second or third week of September.
The young plants are allowed to
remain in the seed-bed until the end
of October, or even the middle of

November. Should frosty weather
set in whilst the plants are in the
seed-beds, they are protected by
mats supported on short stakes 18
in. above the ground. Sometimes
a stout plank is set on edge along the
centres of the beds, and two rows of
short stakes are put one on either
side to support it, and over this are
placed mats. When the weather
becomes too severe for them to be
thus protected, and when they re-
quire to be transplanted, they are
taken up and planted in frames or
under hand-lights. The frames are
placed in a sheltered spot sloping
to the south, and are filled to within
8 or 9 in. of the top with ordinary
soil firmly trampled down with the
feet ; over this better soil is sifted to
a thickness of 3 or 4 in., and in this
the Cauliflowers are planted 3 in.
or so apart. In this position they
remain until the February following
or early part of March without any
further care beyond that of closing
the sashes to exclude frosts, cold
winds, hail, or rain, and tilting them
up at front and back during favour-
able weather, and on very fine days
drawing them off entirely. Cold
rains are very injurious to Cauli-
flowers, but a warm shower in
February benefits them. Sometimes
the plants grow so strongly that
their leaves touch or press against
the sashes ; when that happens, the
sashes are tilted up at front and back,
night and day, with pieces of wood
or brick, otherwise frost would in-
jure such leaves as touch the glass.-
Dry sand, kept in a shed for the
purpose, is scattered amongst the
plants two or three times while they
are in frames, in order to guard
against damp,, and such plants as
show signs of " buttoning " are im-
mediately pulled out to give the
others more room. Where room is
limited and the weather appears

CAULIFLOWER

209

mild, young Cauliflowers are often
wintered in the beds where they are
sown, or they are pricked off into
raised beds of light soil not likely
to be soaked with wet in winter.
Here they are sometimes left unpro-
tected, and at other times they
are covered with hoops and mats.
Continued dampness of soil and
atmosphere is their worst enemy, as
it induces growth so soft that it can-
not withstand frost so well as that
produced on high and dry ground.
Where hand-lights are employed, an
open field or quarter is lined off into
squares measuring about 6 ft. each
way. At every intersection nine
Cauliflowers are planted in a suffi-
ciently small space to be conveniently
covered with cloches or hand-lights,
which are immediately placed over
them, and a little earth is drawn
around the base of the lights so as
to shut up all apertures. The empty
spaces between the rows of hand-
lights are planted with Coleworts.
In spring these Coleworts are either
thinned out or entirely removed for
market, and a crop of Cos Lettuces
is planted in their place. As soon
as the Cauliflowers have become
established they are allowed abun-
dance of air, and otherwise treated
the same as those grown in frames.
When the plants become too thick,
they are all lifted from under the
hand-lights and planted in open
quarters or under other hand-lights.
Market-gardeners generally begin
to cut from Cauliflower-plants raised
in this way some time in the month
of May, according to the mildness
or otherwise of the season. The
best growers seldom make many
sowings of Cauliflowers ; one or
two in autumn and one or two
in spring being the usual number.
The first autumn sowing, as before
stated, is made out-of-doors some
time between the last week in

August and the third week in Sep-
tember; and the second one, in
frames, in the last week of Septem-
ber or first week in October. From
these two sowings Cauliflowers are
obtained from the last week in April
to the end of June. The first
spring sowing, if the autumn one is
a failure, is made in a frame in the
last week of February or first week
of March, or it may be made in
the open border any time during
the first fortnight of March; from
this sowing a crop is obtained from
the middle of June till August or
September. The third sowing is
commonly made in beds, in some
open quarter, between the middle of
April and the first week in May, in
order to furnish an autumn supply.
Different market- gardeners have
different times for sowing Cauli-
flowers, but it is well understood
that strong, grossly grown plants do
not stand the winter so well as
medium-sized ones, and they are also
more liable to "button." Moderate-
sized plants are decidedly the best
for mild winters, but in the event of
very severe winters occurring, strong
plants are the best. Cauliflowers
which have been wintered in frames
or under hand-lights are often planted
on ground cropped with Radishes
before the latter crop is marketable,
and by the time it is so and has been
cleared off, the Cauliflowers will
have gained good strength, when the
ground will be intercropped with
Lettuces. In other instances, fields
are marked off into beds 5 ft. wide,
with i -ft. alleys between them, and
these beds are sown with Round-
leaved Spinach. As soon as this is
done, three rows of Cauliflowers are
planted along the beds. The Cauli-
flowers outgrow the Spinach, which,
by continual picking for market, is
kept in check until it is eventually
exhausted, leaving the Cauliflowers

14

210

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

masters of the field. The autumn
crops obtained from spring sowings
are thinned out a little in the seed-
beds, and, when large enough for
handling, are planted where they
are to remain permanently. Should
the weather be dry at planting time,
a pint of water, or a little more, is
given to each plant, and the sodden
soil is soon afterwards freshened up
by the hoe, thus, in some measure,
preventing evaporation. Late Cauli-
flowers are nearly always inter-
cropped with some other vegetable,
such as Lettuces, French Beans,
Celery, Seakale, etc. Some large
growers, however, depart from this
rule, and save much labour; for, if
intercropping be practised, people
must be employed to keep down
weeds by means of the hoe ; but
when Cauliflowers alone occupy the
ground, horse-hoes can be freely

worked among the rows. The Early
London is the variety used for the
first crops by most market-gardeners,
but some use the Walcheren for
that purpose. The Walcheren is
the kind almost entirely grown for
use after June, because it suffers
less from drought than any other
sort, and is not liable to "button."
Snow's Winter White, an excellent
sort, is, as a rule, regarded as a
Broccoli; nevertheless, it has fine
white, solid heads, and is largely
grown to succeed the Walcheren,
being hardier than that sort. Snow's
White, if sown together with the
Walcheren in April or May, makes
a fine succession to it, and comes in
usefully till January. Early Cauli-
flowers are always sent to market,
but those produced in summer and
autumn are disposed of to a large
extent to pickle merchants, — S.

USES. — The head, boiled or pickled, is usually the only part
which is eaten. The Cauliflower is one of the best liked of all
vegetables.

Early Dwarf Erfurt Cauliflower. — A very early, very distinct,
and really valuable variety, but difficult to keep true to name. It

is somewhat under middle height,
and has a rather short stem.
Leaves oblong, entire, rounded,
very slightly undulated, and a
peculiar light gray-green, which,
with their shape and rather erect
position, gives the plant some
resemblance to the Sugar-loaf
Cabbage. The head is very
white, but does not keep firm for
a long time. When exposed to
the sun, it soon takes a purple
tinge, unless protected from direct
strong light. " The leaves, which

Early Dwarf Erfurt Cauliflower. at first have an Upright position

and cover the head, later on, as

the head increases in size, sometimes spread and recline even to
touching the ground.

Early Snowball Cauliflower.— This variety, a selection from

CAULIFLOWER

211

Alleaume Dwarf Cauliflower.

the last, differs from it in its greater earliness. It is well suited for

forcing ; and is, so far, the best Cauliflower we have for growing

in frames. It is now largely

grown for early crops in the

south of France.

Alleaume Dwarf Cauli-
flower.— A dwarf and very

early variety of the Half-
early Paris Cauliflower. The

stem is so short that the

head appears to rest on

the ground, like that of the

Early Dwarf Erfurt Cauli-
flower. From this variety,

however, it differs entirely in

the appearance of the leaves,

which are broad, undulated

at the margin, and generally

twisted. The head forms

very quickly, but soon grows out of shape, if it is not cut in time.
The Early Picpus Cauliflower is a slightly taller strain, and more

vigorous than the Alleaume Cauliflower.

Earliest Paris Forcing Cauliflower. — A variety with a slender

and rather long stem. Leaves narrow, nearly straight, almost flat

at the ends and edges ;
head of medium size,
forming soon, but not
continuing firm very long.
This kind is especially
suitable for sowing in
summer; if sown in April
or May, the head forms
in August or September.
Imperial Cauliflower.
— This handsome variety
is very much like the
Dwarf Erfurt, but a
darker green, and larger
altogether. It is an
early kind, with a fine
white, broad, firm head,
and remarkable for the
regularity of its growth
and productiveness.

When grown true to name, it is certainly one of the best early

varieties of Cauliflower.

Imperial Cauliflower.

212

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Half-early, or Intermediate, Paris Cauliflower.— A plant of
medium size, with large, deep, somewhat glaucous green leaves,

surrounding the head
well, and having the
ends turned towards the
ground, the edges being
undulated and coarsely
toothed. Stem rather
short and stout ; head
large, very white, and
keeping firm for a long
time. This variety was
formerly more extensively
grown than any other
by the Parisian market-
gardeners, but at the
present day it is rivalled
by the Short - stalked
Lenormand and several
other newer varieties of
the same earliness.

Half-early Pans, or Nonpareil, Cauliflower. The ffay _ earfy ^m

maitre Cauliflower is a good strain of the Half-early Paris variety.
The stalk is short, and the head is handsome, large, very compact,
and very white. It is much used for autumn cultivation in
the fields in the vicinity of Paris, at Chambourcy, etc.

Lenormand's Short-
stalked Cauliflower. —
The appearance of this
variety distinguishes it at
once from all other kinds
when it comes true to
name. The stem, which
is extremely short, stout,
and thick-set, is furnished
almost to the ground with
short, broad, rounded
leaves,not much undulated
except at the edges, very
firm and stiff, rather
spreading than erect, and
deep, almost .glaucous

green The head is very Lenormand's Short-stalked Cauliflower

large and firm, a splendid (™ natural size)"

white, and keeps firm for a long time. The plant is early, hardy,

and productive, and takes up comparatively little ground, so that

CAULIFLOWER 213

it is not surprising that its cultivation has been very much
extended in the course of a few years.

Large White French Cauliflower (CJwufleur demi-dur de
Saint- Brieuc). — A large, stout plant, with long, undulating, deep
green leaves. Stem long ; head firm, compact, and keeping pretty
well. This variety, which is very much grown in Brittany, whence
the heads are sent to Paris, and even to England, is very hardy
and highly suitable for culture in the open ground.

Late Paris Cauliflower. — This is the latest of the varieties
grown by the market-gardeners about Paris. It differs from the
preceding variety chiefly in being somewhat later, and the head
has the advantage of remaining hard and firm for a longer time.

Large Algiers Cauliflower.

It also differs in the appearance of its leaves, which are very
numerous, long, very undulating, and intensely green. It is the
least extensively grown of the three kinds which are most com-
monly cultivated about Paris, the market-gardeners there only
using it for summer sowings to bring in a crop in the latter end
of autumn.

Large Algiers Cauliflower.— A very good kind for the south
of France and Algeria, of dwarf habit and vigorous growth, quite
hardy and very early, with stiff entire leaves, only slightly con-
voluted at the edges, and dark green, almost slate colour. It is
mostly grown for use at the end of summer and during autumn,
and is easily grown, not only in kitchen gardens, but also in the
fields, provided it gets all the water it needs. The head is large,
and its beautiful white head is well set off by the dark foliage. In

214

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

foreign markets a very tall, late, and leafy variety is sometimes
offered under the name of Algiers Cauliflower, but it is really the
Autumn Giant Cauliflower, a very interesting variety, but entirely
different from the true Algiers Cauliflower here described.

Early London, or Early Dutch, Cauliflower.— A large and
hardy variety, suitable for field culture. Stem long and rather
slender ; leaves long, not very broad, gray-green, and undulated.
This is one of the kinds of Cauliflower which have the midrib of the
leaf bare at the base for the greater part of its length. The head
is hard and firm, but not very large. It is a half-late variety, and,

in its native country
succeeds better than the
French kinds. It is grown
on a large scale about
Leyden, whence great
quantities of it are ex-
ported to England to
compete in the London
markets with the Cauli-
flowers sent from the
French coasts, especially
from Brittany. The name
of Dwarf Dutch Cauli-
flower given to it by the
Germans is only by way
of comparison with other

Early London, or Early Dutch. Cauliflower Dut.^ .va,rietieS> for it is

(^T natural size). a tall kind compared with

the French varieties.

Late Asiatic Cauliflower. — A vigorous kind, with numerous
large, undulated, rather dark green leaves, and a shorter stem than
the preceding variety, like which it is hardy and rather late. It is
suitable for growing in the open ground, and should not be sown
later than May, to bring in a crop in the autumn. This is a large
and very highly esteemed late variety.

Stadtholder Cauliflower. — Very nearly allied to the Early
Dutch Cauliflower, this variety exhibits almost the same charac-
teristics of growth, and its difference is that it is a few days later.
In this respect it is intermediate between the Early Dutch and the
Walcheren Cauliflower. The stem is shorter than that of the other
Dutch kinds, and the leaves are more undulated at the edges.

Walcheren Cauliflower, or Walcheren Broccoli.— This is the
latest of all Cauliflowers and one of the hardiest, so that it may be
regarded as intermediate between the Cauliflowers, properly so-
called, and the Broccolis, among which it is not unusual to find it
classed. It has a long, stout stem, and numerous long, stiff, and

CAULIFLOWER

215

erect gray-green leaves. The head forms very slowly ; it is hand-
some, large, very white, and of a fine close grain. The seed should
be sown in April to ensure the head being well grown before the
approach of frosty weather. When sown late, it often withstands
the winter and heads early in spring.

Incomparable Cauliflower. — Vigorous in growth, with tall,
erect, broad, twisted leaves, of a gray-green colour, resembling those
of the Autumn Giant Cauliflower, and medium stem. Head very
large and fine in grain. A good variety for producing a late
outdoor crop in the autumn. Sown in April and May, it is fit for
use several days before the Autumn Giant Cauliflower, which it

Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower.

resembles very nearly in the vigour of its growth and the largeness
of its leaves.

Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower. — A large and vigorous
variety, with a long stem and large, undulating dark green leaves.
Head very large, firm, very white, and well covered by the inner
leaves. It is a late kind, coming in about the same time as the
Walcheren Cauliflower, but it is not so hardy. In the north of
France it can only be grown for a late autumn crop in the open
ground. It should be sown in April or May.

Giant Italian Self-protecting Cauliflower. — Before the head
forms it is not easy to distinguish this variety from the preceding

2l6

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

one, like which it has long and broad leaves, and the leaf-stalks
much tinged with purple on the part next the stem. The ends of
the leaves, however, are somewhat narrower and more pointed.
When the head is about to form the central leaves turn and fold
themselves over it so as to cover it completely until it has attained
nearly its full size, when it comes into view for the first time.

Purple Cape Broccoli (Choufleur noir de Sidle}. — In its habit

of growth this
variety resembles
the Algiers Cauli-
flower. It has a
long stem, very large
dark green leaves,
rather wavy, almost
crimped, short, and
broad for their
length. It differs
from all other kinds
in the colour of
the head, which is
purple and coarser
in grain than in
any other variety,
although very com-
pact, firm, and large.
This is not a very late variety. It is always grown in the open
ground, and the crop begins to come in early in September.

The Russian Cauliflower, grown in the north of France, is a
handsome long-stemmed variety, with oblong grayish, light green
leaves, narrower and more pointed than those of the Early Dutch
Cauliflower. It is a late field sort.

The varieties of Cauliflower grown in Germany under the names
of Cyprischer% Asiatischery etc., come very close to the Dutch
varieties.

BROCCOLI

Brassica oleracea Botrytis, D.C.

French, Chou Brocoli, Chou-fleur d'hiver. German, Broccoli, Brockoli, Spargelkohl.
Flemish, Brokelie. Danish, Broccoli, Asparges kaal. Italian, Cavol broccolo.
Spanish, Broculi.

The Broccoli, like the Cauliflower, is a cultivated variety of the
Wild Cabbage, and is grown for the sake of the head, which is
produced in the same way and has the same qualities. The
growth of the Broccoli, however, is much more prolonged, and
instead of producing the head the same year in which the plants
are sown, it usually does not do so until early in the following

Purple Cape Broccoli (^ natural size).

BROCCOLI 217

spring. The two plants also differ somewhat in appearance, the
Broccoli usually having more numerous, broader, stiffer, and
narrower leaves than the Cauliflower, and generally bare leaf-
stalks ; the veinings of its leaves are also stouter and whiter. Its
heads, although handsome, firm and compact, are seldom as large,
in this climate, as those of good varieties of Cauliflower. The seed
of both plants is identical in appearance.

The cultivation of the Broccoli dates back to a more remote
period than that of the Cauliflower, as the name, at least, would lead
us to infer. In Italy, the name broccoli is applied to the tender
shoots which, at the close of the winter, are emitted by various
kinds of Cabbages and Turnips preparing to flower. These green
and tender young shoots have, from time immemorial, been highly
esteemed as vegetables by the Italians, who were careful to select
and cultivate only those kinds which produced the most tender
shoots in the greatest abundance. The Sprouting, or Asparagus,
Broccoli represents the first form exhibited by the new vegetable
when it ceased to be the earliest Cabbage, and was grown with an
especial view to its shoots. After this, by continued selection and
successive improvements, varieties were obtained which produced a
compact white head, and some of these varieties were still further
improved into kinds which are sufficiently early to commence and
complete their entire growth in the course of the same year. These
last-named kinds are now known by the name of Cauliflowers.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in a nursery-bed from the
beginning of April to the end of May, according to the earliness of
the variety ; the seedlings are usually pricked out in a bed, and in
June or July are finally transplanted. Like all plants of the
Cabbage family, they are benefited by frequent hoeings and
waterings. At the beginning of winter a mulching of manure is
applied, and the plants are earthed up to the lowest leaves, or they
may be taken up altogether and laid in a sloping trench, with the
heads turned to the north. The ground in which they are to pass
the winter should be sweet and well drained, and the plants should,
if possible, be protected in severe frosty weather. In March the
heads begin to form, and may be cut until June, if successive
sowings have been made.

As a rule, in private gardens select a number of varieties that

Broccoli is cut when about a third will naturally succeed each other,

or half its full size : the aim of although they be all sown and planted

growers should be, not the produc- out at the same time,

tion of gigantic heads, but a constant This is doubtless the best plan

succession of firm, compact Broccoli when the ground intended to be

of medium size. Some growers occupied with Broccoli can be all

choose a few good kinds and make spared and got ready at one time ;

successional sowings, whilst others but it frequently happens, where the

218

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

demand for vegetables is great, that
part crops must be planted as the
ground becomes vacant. Many
people plant Broccoli between rows
of Potatoes, and where the ground
is limited and the kind of Potatoes
grown are dwarf and planted a good
distance apart, it is doubtless a good
system. Where this system is
adopted the hardest pieces of land
should be selected ; the firmer the
land, the better the plants stand the
severity of the winter. They also
come into use more regularly in
rotation in their several seasons, and
form larger and closer hearts than if
planted in less compact soil. Plenty
of room to grow must be allowed
them. Supposing two rows of early
or second-early Potatoes are planted
from 20 in. to 2 ft. apart, there
should be two rows of Potatoes
between every two rows of Broccoli,
which will place the rows of Broccoli
about 3 ft. 6 in. or 4 ft. apart ; and
this distance is not too much, as it
gives both crops plenty of room to
develop themselves. The Potato
haulm should be turned from the
Broccoli to the unoccupied space
between each two rows of Potatoes.
It is now a common practice to
plant Broccoli with a crowbar ; the
holes are filled in with fine soil,
and afterwards thoroughly soaked
with water.

SOWING AND PLANTING. — Though
June is the month in which most
plantations of Broccoli are made,
yet it is frequently July before the
work is done. Plants put out in
August will make nice heads, but
the sooner the planting is done after
the middle of June the better.
Though planting early ensures the
finest plants and largest heads, the
time of sowing or planting does not
materially affect the plants as regards
the time they come into use. The
time for sowing Broccoli-seed varies

from February till April, according
to different localities ; as a rule, from
the end of March to the middle of
April is the best time if the weather
be genial. The best manner of
sowing is in shallow drills, 6 in.
apart, and, if the seed be good, it
should be sown thinly. The whole
sowing may be made at the same
time, and planted at the same time,
for convenience' sake ; and by plant-
ing many varieties a regular supply
throughout winter and spring may
be ensured when the winters are
mild — for it is certain that no prac-
tice as to time of sowing or planting
will ensure the heads forming at a
certain time, if during winter we
have protracted periods of frost or
cold, during which all growth is
at a standstill. Plants from sowings
made early in April will, under
favourable circumstances, be large
enough for pricking out by the
middle of May ; they should have
a moderately rich, open border,
where they can have the benefit of
the sun to keep them strong and
sturdy. They should be pricked
out 7 or 8 in. apart from plant to
plant, and by the beginning of June
the ground should be prepared and
the plants finally planted out —
choosing a showery time, if possible.
Many people never transplant their
Broccoli previous to final planting ;
but where time can be spared, it is
much the best, as the plants get
stronger and better able to resist the
attacks of slugs, snails, etc., than
small plants put out direct from
the seed-bed.

If practicable, the ground should
be trenched two or three spades
deep, or at least double-digged.
When there is not time for doing
either of these, then the ground
must be dug over a spade deep
only, taking care to break the soil
up thoroughly, as deeply as a good

BROCCOLI

219

spade will do it, and working in
some well-decayed manure at the
same time, the soil being broken up
well in the trench, and the surface
a little rough. Plant as soon as the
digging is finished. If the planting
be done in June or July, from 2^ to
3 ft. must be allowed between the
plants ; if deferred till August, they
heed not be allowed so much room.
If the weather be dry, the seed-bed,
or that from which the plants are
taken, should be watered well the
night before, to soften the soil. The
holes to receive the plants should
always be made sufficiently large to
admit of their being easily put in
without breaking their roots. " But-
toned " and stunted plants are in
many cases caused by bad planting.
They are put in with broken and
mutilated roots ; and those that have
a tap-root often have it bent double
in getting it into the hole, and,
instead of the point being at the
bottom of the hole, it will be stick-
ing up above the surface. No one
should wait a very long time for wet
weather in which to plant Broccoli :
it is better to get the planting done
and water well once or twice, and
the plants will then do till rain
comes. When the plants are fairly
established, and have grown a little,
they must be earthed up with the
hoe, which will prevent the wind
from twisting them about and dis-
turbing their young roots.

SOIL AND MANURE. — Broccoli
thrives best in a deep, loamy, well-
drained soil ; but it is not very
particular in this respect, and will
produce fine heads in any well-
enriched soil of which the staple is
loam. In old garden soils in which
humus has accumulated, it is often
attacked with the grub or maggot,
which causes " clubbing." In such
cases lime may be applied with
advantage, or burnt clay and fresh

loam. The ground should be
trenched two or three spades deep
previous to planting, and the
manure, if rotten, well incorporated
with the soil, or, if rank, buried in
the bottom of the trench. If
trenching cannot be done, then
Broccoli should follow some other
crop, such as Potatoes or Onions,
or any crop not belonging to the
Cruciferse or tap-rooted section, such
as Carrots, Turnips, or Beet, and the
ground should be dug as deeply as
a good spade will go, and well
manured. Where the soil in which
Broccoli is to be planted is naturally
of a light character, if moderately
rich, it should not be dug, but
made as firm as possible round the
plants. The best kind of manure
for Broccoli is undoubtedly well-
rotted stable manure, with a sprink-
ling of soot added to destroy worms.
Watering is seldom necessary after
plants get well established.

HEELING-IN BROCCOLI. — As re-
gards the heeling-in or layering of
Broccoli, many growers think it a
great advantage, whilst others think
it at least unnecessary. As a rule,
private growers are in favour of the
practice of layering ; their objects
being, firstly, to check growth, as
they believe that disturbing the roots
has the effect of hardening the whole
plant, and of enabling it better to
withstand severe weather ; secondly,
to place the plants in such a posi-
tion that the sun, during alternate
frost and thaw, will not get to the
hearts, as these suffer more after
being thawed by the sun in the day
than when continuously frozen. For
this reason the heads are laid so
as to face the north or west. To
accomplish this, if the rows run
east and west, they commence on
the north side of the first row, and
take out a spit of soil just the width
of the spade, so as to form a trench

220

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

within 2 or 3 in. of the stems of the
plants, laying the soil, as the work
proceeds, on the side away from the
row. This necessarily removes the
soil from the roots, no more of
which is broken off than can be
avoided. All the plants in the row
are then regularly bent over, until
their heads rest on the ridge of soil
taken out of the trench. When this
is done, commence with the next
row, taking the soil out so as to
form a similar trench, and laying it
in a ridge upon the stems of the
row of plants bent over, so as to
cover them right up to their bottom
leaves ; and, in this way, proceed
until the whole is completed. If
the rows stand north and south, the
work is begun on the west side. By
this process, as will be seen, all the
roots on one side of each row, and a
portion of those on the other, are
disturbed. This causes the leaves
to flag a good deal for a week or
two, and checks growth. The
larger and more vigorous the plants,
the greater the need for thus pre-
paring them for winter. In light
soils, where they can be got up
without much mutilation of the
roots, should it be desirable to
prepare the ground for some other
crop before the Broccoli is off in
spring, they may be taken up alto-
gether and laid in some more
convenient place, lifting them, as
far as possible, with all their roots
intact. Where time can be spared,
we believe this to be a good system,
as we have noticed that where
Broccoli is managed in this way, it
is only during exceptionally severe
winters that it gets destroyed. The
length of time during which this
vegetable affords a succession, at a
period of the year when there is not
much variety, makes it worth while
to do all we can to prolong its
season. Fortunately, however, severe

injury to the Broccoli crop is the
exception rather than the rule, and is
quite as likely to be the consequence
of imperfectly ripened stems as of
hard weather.

PROTECTING. — When Broccoli
comes into use in too large quan-
tities at a time, and a blank in the
supply is likely to occur, some of
the plants may be taken up and
placed in an open shed in which
there is a fair amount of light and
air. Some ordinary soil may be
put into it, and the plants, the heads
of which shall have attained a usable
size, may be placed in the soil — but
not too thickly, or the leaves will
turn yellow and injure the heads.
If this be done in succession as the
plants form heads, there will always
be on hand a supply of Broccoli.
Frames or pits are better than a
shed in which to keep them, but
these are generally required for
other purposes. The practice of
taking up Broccoli in autumn when
nearly fit for use, and hanging them
head downwards in a shed or other
building, is not good ; for, although
they will keep for a time in that
way, they get tough and inferior
compared with those that have had
their roots in moist soil.

GROWING FOR EXHIBITION. —
When Broccoli is required for ex-
hibition, small plantations should
be made in different situations, in
order to make sure of having them
in at the required time. For this
purpose large compact heads are
indispensable, though it is better
to have them somewhat small and
close than large and open. Trenches
are sometimes dug for the plants,
and it is a good system where time
can be spared. The trenches should
be dug 2 ft. wide and two spits deep;
the top spit being taken out and laid
on each side, then a good thick coat
of fresh horse-droppings, or rotten

BROCCOLI

221

manure, thrown in the trench, to be
turned in and well incorporated with
the second spit. The plants may
then be put in, and as they grow the
soil that was taken out of the trench
may be put back round the stems
of the plants and trodden in firmly,
Good soakings of manure-water may
be given when the soil is dry, but
after the heads are once formed it
must be discontinued, or it will cause
the flower to open. In cutting, the
whitest and firmest heads should be
selected, and the more they resemble
each other in size and appearance
the better ; they should never be
trimmed until they are going to
be put on the exhibition table, and
then not so severely as is often done.
If it be necessary to cut the heads
some time previous to their being
shown, the best way is to divide
them with 5 or 6 in. of stem and
place them in shallow pans filled
with cold water standing in a cool
spot. The leaves should be tied
over the flower, and, if an occa-
sional sprinkling overhead be given
them, it will help to keep them
fresh. This will be found better
than pulling up the roots and hang-
ing them up in sheds and similar
places.

CULTURE FOR MARKET. — This
crop is grown by market-gardeners
near London chiefly under the shade
of fruit-trees, but in the valley of the
Thames there are acres of Broccoli
in the open fields. The early sup-
plies of Broccoli brought to the
market are produced in the west of
England, where the climate is mild,
and the heads produced there are
superior in size and quality to those
grown near London. In mild seasons
Broccoli is so good and plentiful as
to be of little profit to the grower.
In the winter of 1878 many never
brought their produce to market at
all, but made use of it at home, so

low were the prices offered for it in
the market. In the market-gardens
about London, the Purple Sprout-
ing, the Walcheren, Snow's Winter
White, and Veitch's Autumn Giant
are the kinds chiefly grown. ,The
first sowing is usually made during
the month of April on beds of rich
soil. Sometimes, however, the time
of year when ground will be vacant
to receive the plants influences the
time of sowing, for it is an important
matter to have the young plants
healthy and stocky at planting time.
If sown so early as to have to be
kept long in the seed-bed, they be-
come "drawn," and consequently
do not yield such good results.
Another sowing is generally made
in the middle of May; indeed,
from this sowing the principal
winter crop is obtained, and more
plants are raised than are required,
so that all clubbed and weakly
ones can be discarded at planting
time.

A sowing of Sprouting Broccoli is
made in the end of May or early
in June, from which is obtained a
supply of sprouts during the following
winter and early spring, a time when
they are in great demand. When the
young Broccoli-plants appear above-
ground they are first hand-weeded,
and afterwards thinned by means
of narrow hoes. As soon as they
are strong enough for transplanting
they are planted in rows under fruit-
trees, or in any convenient situation.
When planted between rows of fruit-
bushes, two lines of plants are in-
serted in the intervals between every
two rows of trees ; if two drills of
Potatoes occupy the space between
the trees, then only one line of
Broccoli is planted, and that between
the two drills of Potatoes. Should
the whole space under an orchard be
planted with Potatoes, as soon as
these are earthed-up Broccoli is

222 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

planted between the rows without we often see them in private gardens;

the soil being loosened or dug. The yet it is seldom they are injured by

Potatoes ripen before the Broccoli frost, and the fine white, firm heads

can injure them much, and when the that may be seen by thousands in

Potatoes are removed the Broccoli Covent Garden Market during the

has the whole space to itself.-* The autumn are seldom surpassed, if

trees lose their leaves in October; even equalled, in private gardens,

then the Broccoli, having the benefit In the neighbourhood of Shepperton,

of increased light, becomes invigo- in the Thames valley, may be seen

rated, and some of the plants then breadths of Broccoli from twenty to

begin to afford a good supply of thirty acres in extent, and from this

sprouts, which are not all gathered place alone it is calculated that in

at once, even from the same plant, the height of the season as many as

but at intervals as they become 30,000 heads per week are sent to

fit for use. The immense breadths market. In some parts of Kent

of Broccoli grown in some of the Broccoli is grown to a large extent,

market gardens render it almost one grower yearly planting over

impossible to have all heeled in as 200,000 plants.

USES. — The same as those of the Cauliflower. The value of
this vegetable to the many who depend on the markets for their
supplies is greatly lessened by the deterioration it suffers from
being cut long before being used. Early crops being grown in
perfection in Cornwall, and at considerable distances from London,
the heads are often stale before being used, even when they do not
seem so. We have frequently noticed an intensely bitter flavour in
the Broccoli sent to market, even when cooked in the most careful
manner. Every one who can should grow their own, and cut it an
hour before dinner !

Extra Early White Broccoli.— Hardy enough in the climate
of Paris ; in earliness it surpasses all the other kinds. The
leaves are short, compact in growth, somewhat less undulating
than those of the Large White French Broccoli. The head is
large, firm, white, and very fine in grain. It is a good variety
for forcing.

Early Saint-Laud Broccoli. — Leaves short but well developed,
broad, of a grayish dark green colour, and slightly crimped ; head
white and regular. A fine variety much grown in the south-west
of France, where it comes into use between the Extra Early and
the Extra Late Broccoli, a few days earlier than the Early White
Broccoli.

Large White French Broccoli (Brocoli blanc de Saint- Brieuc).
— A vigorous-growing plant, with rather numerous, long, stiff
leaves, of a glaucous green colour and deeply undulated on the
edges ; the interior leaves which cover the head are very much
twisted and almost curled ; head white, very compact, and
continuing firm for a long time. A hardy and easily grown
variety.

BROCCOLI

223

Adam's Early White Broccoli (TV natural size).

Adam's Early White Broccoli. — This variety differs but little
in its general character from the preceding one, from which it is
particularly distinguished by being ten or twelve days earlier. It
produces a great number
of leaves, which are un-
dulated at the edges to a
remarkable degree.

Roscoff White
Broccoli. — This very ex-
cellent kind, which is most
extensively cultivated in
the department of Finis-
tere, is very like the
preceding one, of which
it may be considered a
very constant and very
early local form. This
is the variety of which
such large quantities are
brought to Paris every year, at the end of the winter.

Easter Broccoli. — This is a very handsome, early, and distinct
variety. Its leaves are not so numerous as those of most other
kinds of Broccoli, and have a peculiar triangular appearance,
being rather short, broad at the base, and pointed at the end ;
they are stiff, not much undulated, and are finely toothed on
the edges ; their gray colour is equally characteristic. This
variety, which in the south of France is also called the Easter
Cauliflower (Chou-fleur de Pdques\ is very early, requires less
attention than many other kinds, and even the weakest plants of it

form very regular heads.
It is one of the best kinds,
though tender.

Large White Mam-
moth Broccoli. — A thick-
set variety, lower in growth
than the preceding kinds,
and with shorter and
broader leaves of a dark
green colour, very nume-
rous, surrounding and pro-
tecting the head well ; the
inner or heart leaves are
often twisted ; head very
large and white, and of remarkably good quality. This is
one of the latest varieties which continue to bear for the
longest time.

Easter Broccoli (TV natural size).

224

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Extra Late White Broccoli.— Leaves broad, entire, slightly
crimped, undulating at the edges, set close to the head, which is

Large White Mammoth Broccoli.

firm, white, and very finely grained. A very vigorous-growing and
hardy variety, coming into use after the White Mammoth Broccoli
in April or May, before the spring Cauliflowers appear in the
markets.

Purple Cape Broccoli. — See under Cauliflower.
Purple Broccoli. — An exceedingly hardy kind, totally distinct

from all other varieties ;
leaves rather deeply
lobed, numerous, long,
spreading, pale grayish
green, with purple-
tinged veins ; head
purple, rather firm, of
medium size, and late
to form.

Purple Sprouting,
or Asparagus, Broc-
coli.— Under this name
different varieties have
been cultivated ; that
which is now most
commonly grown has

^^^^^^ purple stems and leaves,

resembling a curled Red Cabbage up to a certain point, and
producing not only in the heart but also in the axils of the leaves

Extra Late White Broccoli.

BROCCOLI

225

rather thick, fleshy purple shoots, the flower-buds of which do
not abort like those varieties which form a true head. These
shoots are produced in succession for a long time, and they are
gathered as they lengthen and before the flowers open, and are

used like green Asparagus,
from which circumstance
the plant has received
the name of Asparagus
Broccoli.

Under the name of
Sp rout ing Brocco li, a
variety with green shoots
is most commonly grown
in England, the flowers
of which are partially
abortive and form at the
end of every shoot a
small bulging mass or
lump, of a greenish yellow
colour. The Marte Cauli-
flower, of Bordeaux, is a
true Sprouting Broccoli,
which produces a great
number of small, compact
purplish heads of very
good quality. This variety,
unfortunately, does not endure severe winters in the climate of Paris.
The number of kinds of Broccoli is extremely large, as it is one
of those vegetables the varieties of which are not well established.
In England, more than forty different forms of it are grown. Of
these we mention here the kinds with coloured heads : —

Green Cape. — A green-headed variety, which comes in in
October and November.

Late Green, or Late Danish. — The head of this is of the same
colour as the preceding kind, but comes in in April and May.

Late Dwarf Purple, or Cock's-comb Broccoli.— A very hardy,
purplish-headed kind, coming in only in April and May.

Among the white-headed kinds, the most esteemed are : —
Backhouse's White Winter.— Distinct from Snow's and
Osborn's, with the good qualities of both.

Osborn's White Winter.— A fine mid-winter variety, with
heads as white as a Cauliflower.

Improved White Sprouting. — A variety very productive of
shoots.

Early Penzance (Cornish). — Turns in very early ; fine, com-
pact, pure white head.

15

Purple Sprouting broccoli.

226 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Knight's Protecting. — A very useful protecting variety.

Sulphur. — Very useful, extremely hardy, and produces fine
heads.

Champion (Barr). — A very distinct, hardy early Broccoli. The
flower is well protected, and, with good culture, if allowed to attain
its full size, produces very large heads.

Criterion (Barr). — The best of all the late Broccolis, coming
into use after the middle of May, and giving a succession till the
Cauliflowers are ready to cut.

Chappel's Cream. — A fine variety, with large creamy white
compact head.

Lauder's Protecting Late White Goshen.— A fine, hardy late
variety.

Leamington (Perkins). — A well-protected, first-rate late
Broccoli.

Ledsham's Latest of All.— Certificated by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society as one of the finest and latest varieties known ;
head " white as snow."

Cattell's Eclipse. — A handsome late form of the Mammoth
Broccoli.

Grange's Early Cauliflower Broccoli, or Bath White. — An
extremely early kind, which begins to come in in October.

Cooling's Matchless. — A rather leafy kind, but producing a
fine white head, like the White Roscoff.

Snow's Superb White Winter. — A compact, short-stemmed
variety, which may be grown to come in either a.t the end of
autumn or in spring.

Veitch's Protecting. — A good hardy kind, the fine white
heads of which are naturally protected by the peculiar growth of
the leaves.

Wilcove's. — A good late variety, which withstands the winter
well.

The Italians cultivate a great many varieties of Broccoli, and
Italy is the country in which this vegetable originated ; but as
Cauliflowers of every kind pass the winter there without injury, they
give the name of Cauliflower to all the varieties which produce
white heads, the name Broccoli being restricted to the sprouting or
coloured varieties. The Giant Cauliflower of Naples is called a
Broccoli in its native country. On all the coasts of the Mediter-
ranean there are varieties of Cauliflower which come in all through
the winter, in uninterrupted succession to the autumn kinds. There
are also, among the purplish coloured Broccolis, particular kinds
for every month of the winter ; those which come in in November
are named San-Martinari, in December Nataleschi, and the rest
Gennajuoli, Febbrajuoli, Marzuoli, and Apriloti, according as they
come in in January, February, March, and April.

CELERY

227

CELERY

Apium graveolenSy L. Umbellifera.

French, Celeri. German, Sellerie. Flemish, Selderij. Danish^ Selleri. Italian,
Sedano, Apio. Spanish, Apio.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — A plant with a fibrous, rather
fleshy root. Leaves divided, pinnate, smooth, with almost triangular
toothed leaflets, of a dark green colour ; leaf-stalks rather broad
furrowed, concave on the inside ; stem, which does not appear until
the second year, about 2 ft. high, furrowed, and branching ; flowers
very small, yellow or green, in umbels'; seed small, triangular, five-
ribbed, and having a very aromatic odour. Their germinating
power lasts for eight years.

CULTURE. — In England Celery
may be had for use from the begin-
ning of September till late in April.
The ground on which it is to be
grown must be well drained to the
depth of 3 or 4 ft., and trenched
2 ft. deep, enriching it at the same
time with good stable-yard manure
and rotten leaves. The 'best way is
to trench and ridge the ground at
the same time, burying the manure
deeply, so as to encourage deep
rooting — an advantage during dry
weather. Some time before the
ground is required, level down the
ridges ; if the soil is heavy, fork it
over several times, in order to bring
it into good condition before form-
ing the trenches. The latter, for
tall-growing varieties, should be 6 ft.
apart, and for dwarfer sorts 4 ft.
apart. Make them 18 in. deep and
15 in. wide. If possible, they ought
to run north and south, in order
that the plants may have the benefit
of the midday sun. Tread the
bottom of them quite firm, and
place in them from 6 to 9 in. of
perfectly rotten manure, always pre-
ferring rich, well-decayed material
from the stable-yard. On this must
be placed some soot, when the
trenches will be ready to receive
the plants. By placing the manure
deep the roots reach it just when

the centre leaves that are blanched
are coming up, and if the plants
are well fed at that time they form
large hearts, crisp, and white as
ivory.

FOR VERY EARLY CELERY, pre-
pare some rich soil and fill a seed-
pan or box with the compost, firming
it well ; sow the seeds thinly, cover
them over lightly with some finely
sifted soil, and water through a fine-
rosed watering-pot, placing the pans
or boxes upon a shelf in the stove or
in a vinery at work. The seeds will
soon germinate, and when the young
plants have made two or three leaves
prick them off into boxes in rich
loamy soil with plenty of manure,
a portion of leaf-mould, and a
sprinkling of silver sand to keep the
compost open. Seeds for the early
crop ought to be sown in February,
and the seedlings will be ready to
plant out as soon as all danger from
frost is over. Sometimes early
Celery-plants are grown in 4 in.
pots where pits or houses are at
command, and thus treated they
sustain no check when planted in
the trenches and well watered.

A second sowing may be made
about the middle of March, either
in boxes in a warm house or pit, or
a slight hot-bed on which are put
6 in. of fine, rich soil made pretty

228

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

firm, covering lightly with some
finely sifted soil. Prepare a piece
of ground by treading it firmly and
placing on it 6 in. of rotten horse-
manure and leaf-mould in equal
portions, tread firmly, and cover
with 2 in. of fine, rich soil. When
the plants have made two or three
leaves, prick them out in rows 4 in.
apart upon the bed thus prepared,
firming them well in as the planting
proceeds, and watering them with a
fine-rosed pot, so as to settle the soil
round them. If at hand, a frame
might be placed over the bed for a
short time until the young plants
have got established, giving plenty
of air during the daytime, or the
plants can be covered with mats at
night. If properly cared for, they
will be fit to be transplanted into
the trenches in two months from the
time the seed was sown.

For late plants a sowing may be
made in April the same as in March,
only the plants will need no pro-
tection when pricked out.

TRENCHES for Celery are often
made between rows of early Peas,
which shade the Celery -plants when
newly planted in hot weather, and
when the Pea crop is harvested the
Celery has the full benefit of sun
and air. The trenches being ready
for the reception of the plants, water
them the day previous to trans-
planting ; lift them carefully with
a trowel, preserving every fibre,
replant i ft. apart, press the soil
firmly round the roots, water well,
and shade for a few days if the
weather be dry and warm. The
summer treatment consists in keep-
ing the ground free from weeds by
frequent hoeings, watering twice a
week if the weather is very dry,
and once if dull. When the plants
are from 6 to 9 in. high, weak
manure-water may be given them
once a week. This is prepared by

soaking either cow or horse manure
in a large tub or tank, applying a
portion of soot with the manure-
water, or a handful of soot may be
scattered occasionally around the
plants before watering them. This
destroys slugs and feeds the plants,
giving them a fine green colour.
In exposed situations it is often
necessary to tie the leaves up when
i ft. or so high, to save them from
being broken by high winds, using
for the purpose strands of fine
matting, but be careful that the ties
do not cut the leaves when growing.
It is best not to earth the plants
up much until they have nearly
completed their growth. Merely
scatter a little soil over the roots
once a fortnight to serve as a mulch-
ing and induce the roots to come to
the surface.

BLANCHING requires from five to
seven weeks after the final earthing.
Before commencing to earth up,
all small leaves and any suckers, or
secondary shoots, which may have
grown from the base of the plants
should be removed; tie the leaves
carefully with some pieces of thin
bast, which will give way as the
plants swell. Some use tubes for
blanching, such as drain-pipes,
placed round the plants ; others
paper collars, and some employ
clean paper, which keeps the soil
from getting into the hearts of the
plants when earthing is being per-
formed, raising the collars as the
earthing proceeds, or the collars
may be left upon the plants. If
tubes are not used, the soil must be
banked up in the usual way at several
times, being careful to keep the
leaves close together, so that the
heads may be straight and compact
after being blanched. Choose dry
weather for earthing, for if damp
the hearts are sure to rot. Before
earthing scatter a little lime round

CELERY

229

each plant, which destroys all slugs,
which are often destructive to Celery
during the winter in damp soil. A
sprinkling may also be used when
proceeding with the earthing.

Celery may be grown in single
rows or as many as may be thought
fit, making the trenches wide enough
to receive the number of rows in-
tended. One row is the most con-
venient in private gardens, and even
market growers adopt single rows
more than double ones. When the
earthing is finished, and before
severe frost sets in, cover the tops of
the ridges with dry straw, or better,
if at hand, some dry bracken, which
prevents the frost from injuring the
tops of the leaves and keeps the
hearts of the plants dry. Perfect
specimens of Celery must have the
following good points — viz. the leaf,
or stalk, must be broad, thick, crisp,
free from ridges and stringiness,
and the heads good in form and
weight.— W. C.

MARKET-GARDEN CULTURE. —
The valley of the Thames is well
adapted for Celery culture, and many
acres of land in the Fulham fields
and elsewhere are occupied by it.
The sowing for the first crop of
Celery is generally made early in
February; a large main sowing is
made in March, and for the latest
crop sowing takes place in the
middle or end of April. The early
and main sowings are usually made
in frames on hot-beds, but for a late
crop the seed is sometimes sown in
the open air on manure-beds or in
similar positions. The seed is sown
at all times rather thickly, in moist,
light soil, and is but lightly covered.
When up, the seedlings, if too thick,
are thinned out to i in. or so apart.
Some dig out trenches and fill them
with fermenting material, on which
they place a few inches thick of light
rich soil, and after sowing the seed

cover the bed with mats or rough
litter until the seed has germinated,
when the coverings are removed
during the daytime and replaced
at night should the weather be
unfavourable.

In all cases the beds on which
Celery-seed is sown are made firm
either by treading or rolling, and
a little light soil is sifted through a
fine sieve over the seed after it has
been sown. The seedlings in all
cases are freely exposed to light and
air in order to render them stout
and stocky. Those from the first
sowing, when large enough, are
pricked out in frames on a bed of
rotted manure, and those from the
main and later sowings are pricked
out in May and June on beds simi-
larly prepared on a sheltered border
out of doors. In these positions
they receive abundance of water in
order to keep them growing, for a
check at any period in the growth
of Celery-plants is very detrimental.
The plants are usually pricked out
in rows from 6 to 8 in. apart, about
half that distance being allowed be-
tween the plants in the rows. When
planting time has arrived a spade is
run between the rows and a good
soaking of water is given, after which
nothing more is done for a few days.
A spade is then pushed under the
plants, which are thus carefully
raised, separated, and taken on
hand-barrows or in boxes direct
to the trenches. When planted, a
good watering is given them, and
thus they sustain a very slight check
through removal; but market-gar-
deners seldom plant Celery in double
rows, as is done in private gardens,
one row in each trench being con-
sidered the most profitable way.
The strongest plants are in all cases
selected and placed in trenches by
themselves, and the weaker ones
by themselves. In that way a

230

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

succession is formed, uniformity in
the size of the heads is secured, and
thus a whole row of plants becomes
marketable at one time. They need
no sorting, and the ground, being
cleared, is made available for other
crops.

The ground on which it is in-
tended to plant Celery is, if possible,
prepared in autumn by being heavily
manured and trenched, the surface
being either thrown up in ridges or
left in as rough a state as possible
until spring, when it is levelled
down to be sown with Radishes. In
that case the land is marked out into
a series of beds from 5 to 6 ft. wide,
leaving good wide alleys between
them. In these alleys is placed
an extra supply of manure, and in
them are planted the earliest Celery-
plants. By the time these require
earthing up the Radishes will have
been marketed and the ground
cleared of weeds, etc Sometimes,
however, whole fields are marked
off in beds and the trenches dug out
in winter in readiness to receive
the Celery, the beds being planted
with Lettuces or early Cauliflowers.
Market gardeners never plant Celery
in deep trenches; on the contrary,
they contrive to allow the roots,
after the crop is fully earthed up, to
be considerably above the bottom
of the ridges. Especially is this the
case as regards late crops, which in
damp, badly drained soils are very
precarious. During the growing
season Celery is abundantly sup-
plied with water, as are also the
crops of salad plants, or French
Beans, which are invariably grown
between the lines.

Earthing up is performed for the
first time when the plants have
become fairly established and are
6 in. high ; the sides of the trenches
are chopped down on the morning
of some fine day, well broken up,

and allowed to dry for an hour or
two, when two men, one on each
side of the row, push the soil with
the back of a wooden rake to within
a few inches of the plants, so as to
leave a ridge for the reception of
water. At the next earthing the
soil is pressed tightly round the
bases of the plants, and more of it
is chopped down from the ridges ;
and at the third, which is the final
earthing, the ridges are made firm
and smooth in such a way as to
effectually throw off the rain. The
Red and White varieties of Celery
are the principal kinds grown, and
under the treatment just recorded
they become very crisp and solid.
Sometimes a crop of Celery is grown
for culinary purposes early in spring,
and in that case the seeds are sown
in June, and the young plants are
pricked out rather closely together ;
they are never earthed up more
than once, the object being to
secure plants with flavour rather
than crispness and good quality.

KEEPING CELERY. — In severer
climates than ours it is often neces-
sary to resort to other and better
methods of preserving Celery than
are generally practised in this
country. In America, where the
winters are much harder than they
are here, various methods are in
use, but the following, described by
Mr. Peter Henderson, of New York,
we consider the neatest and best,
and it would be as well, in cases of
a severer season than usual, that it
should be known in this country.
Indeed, it would be better to adopt
it always, as by so doing this vege-
table, which all enjoy, may be kept
better- Much disagreeable labour
may also be avoided in digging in
all sorts of weathers, apart from the
injury to the plant from exposure
to greatly varying temperatures and
conditions of weather, as it is at

CELERY 231

present. "Get a box 4 or 5 ft. box of the size named will hold

long, 12 in. wide, and 20 or 24 in. about from seventy-five to one

deep. In the bottom place 2 or 3 in. hundred roots, according to size,

of sand or soil — it makes little differ- It is quite common for many fami-

ence what, provided it is something lies to purchase their Celery from

that will hold moisture. Into this the market-gardeners, place it away

box at the time when Celery is dug in a box in this manner in their

up (which in this district ranges from cellars during the winter, where it

October 25th to November 25th), can be conveniently got at, and it

have the Celery stalks packed per- costs also in this way less than half

pendicularly with the roots resting what it does when purchased tied

on the sand. All that is necessary up from the benches in the market

is to see that it is packed moderately in the usual way. We have for many

tight, for if not packed tight the air years followed this method for what

would get around the stalks and we want for our own private use,

prevent blanching. The box may finding it much more convenient to

be then set in any cool cellar, and get it out of the boxes in the cellar

will keep from the time it is put than to go to the trenches in the

away until March if necessary. A open ground for it in all weathers."

USES. — The leaf-stalks of some kinds and the roots of others
are eaten either raw or boiled. In England the seeds (or an
extract from them) are used for flavouring soups. Popular as
Celery is in England as a cooked vegetable, we have still much
to learn about it. The Turnip-rooted, the best of all winter roots,
is hardly ever seen out of a few foreign houses.

Cultivation, in developing the leaves and the root of the Celery,
has produced two very distinct varieties of the same plant, which
are differently employed and require a different mode of culture.
These are known as the Common, or Stalked, Celery, and the
Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery.

Common Celery* (CV/m' d Cotes).— This is undoubtedly the
most anciently known and the most commonly cultivated kind.
It requires a good, rich, soft, well-manured soil, rather moist than
dry, and is not usually sown where the crop is to be grown. The
earliest sowings are made on a hot-bed in January, February, or
March, and the seedlings, while still small, are pricked out into
another hot-bed, and not planted out permanently until the end of
April or the beginning of May. Subsequent sowings, which may
be continued till June, are made in the open ground, so as to have
a successional supply of fresh, tender stalks all the year round.
The seedlings of these later sowings are not pricked out, but
simply thinned and allowed to remain where they were sown,
until they are finally planted out. When this takes place, the
plants are set in rows, with a distance of 10 or 12 in. from plant to
plant in all directions, and the only attention they require is that
of hoeing, and frequent and plentiful waterings, in which they
delight.

* Celery Leaf Blight, see p. 776. Celery Maggot or Leaf Miner, see p. 776.

232

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Before the stalks are sent to table, they are blanched by
excluding the light from them. This is done in many ways, most
usually by tying up the outer leaves around the inner ones, and
then earthing up the stalks as far as the lowest leaves. This is not
generally done all at once, but at first the stalks are earthed up for
about one-third of their height, and, eight or ten days afterwards,

Solid White Celery (£ natural size).

Golden-yellow Large Solid Celery.

up to two-thirds, the remaining third being completed at the end
of eight or ten days more.

Sometimes the plants are taken up with balls and planted side
by side in a trench, which is then filled with soil ; and sometimes
they are planted in spring in trenches, where they are blanched
when the time comes, without being transplanted, by filling in the
trench with the soil which was taken out in opening it.

Solid White Celery. — A vigorous-growing kind, 16 to 20 in.
high, with fleshy, solid, and tender stalks, which, in blanching,

CELERY

233

become yellow-white. Leaves erect. This variety is the best for

market-garden culture.

Paris Golden Celery. — A very fine variety of Parisian origin ;
half-dwarf, compact, with well-developed leaves, of light green with
golden tints. The ribs are thick, broad, fleshy, and naturally ivory-
white, though to fit it for the table it is blanched the same as other
varieties. It is vigorous and early, easy of cultivation, and in every
way desirable ; but it calls for some care at the end of the season,
as it does not stand _

wet so well as most of
the other sorts.

Rose-ribbed Paris
Celery.— An excellent
variety selected from
the Golden Paris, of
which it possesses all
the good qualities, and,
like it, has broad, thick
ribs, and is not liable
to become hollow. It
is upright and com-
pact. The foliage has
a golden tinge which
increases and becomes
more conspicuous as
the autumn advances.
It is also distinguished
for the rosy colour of
the ribs. The stalks
are much less coloured
than those of the red
varieties, and, when
blanched, assume an
ivory colour slightly
tinged red, which is
very attractive. It is one
cultivation.

Pascal Celery. — A very vigorous and an extremely productive
variety, with short, broad, thick, tender and fleshy green ribs, which,
however, blanch very readily if only tied or earthed up. The
leaves are upright, vigorous, short, and dark green. It keeps quite
well under cover during winter.

White Solid Arezzo Celery. — A very fine, tall, vigorous
variety, with dark green and slightly crimped leaves, and very thick,
broad, tender, and fleshy stalks. Its interest is rather for growers
in the south of France.

Rose- ribbed Paris Celery, Self- blanching.

of the best celeries for autumn

234

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Dwarf Solid White
Celery. — This variety,
besides being easily
blanched, has the further
advantage of not pro-
ducing suckers. The
stalks are extremely
broad, solid, and erect,
so that the plants may
be grown very close
together, thereby obtain-
ing from an equal area
as heavy a crop as that
produced by the larger
varieties. The stalks are
more largely developed
in proportion to the
dimensions of the leaves
in this variety than in
any other.

Curled Solid White
Celery. — A very distinct
variety, with numerous
large leaves. Leaflets
crisped and undulating,

and a lighter green than those of any other variety. The stalks

are fairly thick and perfectly solid, and the leaves, instead of

being bitter, like those of

other kinds, have a mild

flavour and can be used

in salads. This new

variety was raised in the

neighbourhood of Niort

(Vendee), and began to

be distributed about the

year 1870. It is, perhaps,

somewhat more sensitive

to cold than the plain-
leaved kinds.

White Plume Celery

(Ce'leri Plein Blanc

d'Amtrique}. — A very

distinct kind, introduced

from the United States

of North America in 1885.

It is characterised by the Dwarf Solid White Large-ribbed Celery.

White Solid Pascal Celery.

CELERY

235

Curled Solid White Celery.

silver-white colour with which its

leaves are partly tinged at first,

and which later on extends to

all the central part of the plant

and sometimes to the whole of the

foliage. The ribs are white, but,

like those of the other varieties,

need to be blanched to become

quite tender. It is about the

same size as the Paris Golden

Celery, but broader in habit. It

suffers easily from cold, for which

reason it should be grown for

autumn rather than for winter use.
Fern-leaved Celery. — A very

curious variety, with finely cut

foliage, having the same qualities

as the other White Solid Celeries.
Endive Celery (Ce'leri Scarole}.

— This is an almost unribbed variety, with leaves that spread

over the ground. Rather uncommon in appearance, it hardly

deserves a place in the vegetable garden, seeing that the only

useful part of it has been reduced to almost nothing.

The Hartshorn Celery
is a sub-variety of the pre-
ceding kind, and, like it,
almost unribbed. It is dis-
tinguishable by its finely
cut leaves, which resemble
those of the Rouen, or
Staghorn, Endive.

Dwarf Solid White,
Sandringham, or Incom-
parable, Celery. — A more
thickish kind than the
common Solid White Celery.
Stalks broad and very solid ;
leaves short. This variety is
easily blanched, on account
of the great number of its
leaves, which cover one
another closely, so that very
white stalks may be obtained
from it by merely earthing

White Plume Celery.

them up, without the trouble
of tying up the leaves. In

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the United States a variety is grown, under the name of Boston
Market Dwarf Celery, which comes very close to the present kind,
differing from it only in being somewhat taller. Unfortunately,
very frequently it has the defect of sending out underground
shoots or suckers.

Mammoth White Celery (Cfleri Tun).— A sub-variety of the
White Solid Celery, of extremely vigorous growth, attaining a
height of from 20 in. to 2 ft. Stalks very solid, thick, and long,

but relatively not so broad
as those of the Solid
White Celery. This form
seems to be disappearing.
Amongst good English
varieties of White Celery
the following are worthy
of note : Danesbury Celery \
or Veitctis Solid White
Celery, Dicksoris Mammoth
White Celery, and Luck-
hurst Giant White Celery.
These are compact varie-
ties, with very solid stalks,
something like those of
the Dwarf Solid White
Celery. — Dobbies Invin-
cible Celery, Seymour s
White ,or Goodwin's White,
and Northumberland
White Celery. A very
tall kind, somewhat re-
sembling the Mammoth
White Celery.

London Market Red,
Red Giant Solid, or
Ivery's None-such Celery
(Celeri Violet de Tours]. —
A vigorous kind, with
very broad, very solid, tender, and brittle stalks of a purple tinged
green colour. Leaves half-spreading, broad, and dark green. It
is a very hardy variety, and of excellent quality.

Red Large-ribbed Celery. — This is less coloured and more
vigorous in growth than the preceding. In shape it resembles the
Pascal Celery, from which it has sprung ; but it has thicker and
stiffer stalks. It is a short, compact plant, hardy, and keeping well.
The stalks are thick, tender, and do not become hollow, like most
of the early varieties. It is well suited for autumn cultivation.

Red Giant Solid Celery.

CELERY 237

In England a great number of varieties of Red-stalked Celery
are grown, of which, in addition to the present one, we may
mention : Aylesbury Prize Red Celery, tall and well coloured. Early
Rose Celery ', with purplish ribs and pointed leaves. — Major Clarke's
Solid Red, or Wilcods Dunham Red, Ramsey's Solid Red, Turners
Red Celery. A vigorous-growing variety, almost as tall as the
Mammoth White, but with more branching leaves, which are also
of a deeper green colour. — Select Red Celery, Standard-Bearer Celery,
and Winchester Pink Celery, well coloured and rather short.
Carter's Incomparable Crimson, or Hood's Dwarf Red, Celery. This
is dwarfer than any other Red variety, but very solid, and crops
well. Man of Kent, rose-coloured rather than red, half-compact
and distinct. Manchester Red, Laings Mammoth, Fulham Prise
Pink, or Giant Red, Celery. An extremely vigorous-growing kind,
attaining a height of over 3 ft.

Celery culture in the United States has grown greatly in extent
of recent years ; Michigan, Ohio, and New- York States alone
devoting thousands of acres annually to an industry which supplies
the great markets of the east and centre from June to January ;
and California and Florida keeping up the supply for the remain-
ing months of the year. In America the varieties of celery in
cultivation exceed largely in number those grown in Europe.
The Paris Golden, the White Plume, the Pascal, and the Dwarf
Large-ribbed White Solid Celery are the kinds most cultivated ;
but, besides these, there are a certain number of varieties which
more or less resemble the last-named Celery, with slight differences
as regards height, earliness, and colour. Among the most important
of these we may cite : —

Boston Market Celery. — A compact thick-ribbed, solid white
variety, much esteemed in Boston markets.

Crawford's Half-dwarf Celery. — Rather taller than our Dwarf
Large-ribbed White Solid Celery, with solid, not very large stalks,
ivory-white when blanched.

Evans' Triumph Celery. — One of the best of the late kinds,
medium-sized, long-ribbed, white, solid, and good in quality.

Golden Heart, or Golden Dwarf, Celery. — Half-long, given to
throwing out suckers, solid-ribbed and good in quality ; also a
handsome light-coloured stalk when blanched. It is hardy, and
much cultivated for the late season's and winter market.

New Rose Celery. — A handsome violet-coloured variety,
resembling the Violet Tours Celery, but with ribs uniformly solid,
tender, and excellent in quality.

Perfection Heartwell Celery.— A late variety, a little taller
than the Dwarf Large-ribbed White Solid Celery ; it is yellow-
hearted, with medium-sized but solid stems, tender, and good in
quality.

238

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Pink Plume Celery.— Differs from the White Plume Celery
only in being more or less rosy in the ribs.

Winter Queen Celery. — Late, compact, easily blanched to a

cream shade, with solid
fleshy ribs that are much
esteemed.

Two other Celeries
cultivated in America are
Fin de Siecle and
Schumacher, vigorous, tall,
long-ribbed varieties,
much liked in some
localities.

Soup Celery. — A
variety that has been very
little improved by cultiva-
tion, and is probably a
reversion towards the wild
state. It is hardy, and
produces an abundance
of erect-growing leaves.
Stalks hollow, rather thin,
tender, and brittle. The
plant sends up great numbers of suckers, and is grown for its
leaves, which are cut, like Parsley, and is used in soups and for
seasoning. After being cut it produces new leaves.

Soup Celery (£ natural size).

CELERIAC, or TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY

French, Celeri-rave. German, Knoll-Sellerie. Flemish and Dutch, Knoll-Selderij.
Danish^ Knold-Selleri. Italian, Sedano-rapa. Spanish, Apio-nabo.

In this kind of Celery it is the root which has been developed
by cultivation, and not the leaf-stalks, which remain hollow and of
moderate size, while the flavour is so bitter that they are unfit for
table use. On the other hand, the root (which, even in the wild
plant, forms an enlargement of some size before it divides into
numerous rootlets) has been brought by cultivation to easily attain
the size of the fist, and often even double that size. The Turnip-
rooted Celery is an excellent vegetable, but, as its introduction into
cultivation is of comparatively recent date, it is not, as yet, very
commonly grown. It keeps well, and forms a valuable contribution
to the winter supply.

CULTURE. — It is grown nearly in the same way as the Common
Celery, and, like it, requires good, rich, moist, mellow, and well-
manured soil. It is generally sown in a nursery-bed in March, and
planted out in May. The plants require no further attention than

CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY 239

frequent waterings, and to have the ground kept free from
weeds. The market-gardeners of Paris are in the habit, while
the plants are growing, qf chopping off with the spade the
rootlets which grow around the main root, under the (perhaps
erroneous) impression that by doing so they cause the main root
to attain a greater size.

Common Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery.— Leaves smaller
than those of the Common or Stalk Celery ; stalk always hollow,
bitter-tasted, and tinged with a red or bronzy hue ; root forming a
sort of ball, which is roundish or conical in the upper part, and
divided underneath into a great number of rootlets or ramifications,
which are more or less
fleshy and tangled together.
The weight of this, when
trimmed of the leaves and
rootlets, ranges from 7 to
over 10 oz. in the Common
variety, but roots of much
larger size have been ob-
tained from other varieties.

Smooth Paris Celeriac.
— Root generally broader
than long, and somewhat
irregular in shape ; leaves
rather numerous, more
spreading than erect.

Improved Paris
Celeriac. — This is a variety
obtained by selection from
the preceding, than which
it is larger and smoother,
though the roots would
grow rather irregular if growers were not careful to cut
the side rootlets with the spade, and to pinch off the neck
shoots. The market-gardeners of the vicinity of Paris prefer
this variety over all others for growing in spent manure mould,
or terreau.

Large Early August, or Variegated-leaved, Celeriac. — The
root is round, regular, of medium size, and excellent quality.
Remarkable for its very conspicuously striped yellow and green
foliage, which, with the rosy ribs, has a pleasing effect. It makes
a handsome border that will last until the frost sets in, and help to
brighten the monotony of the kitchen-garden.

Early Erfurt Celeriac. — A smaller kind than the Paris Celeriac,
but also earlier. Root very clean-skinned, regularly rounded in
shape, and with a fine neck.

Turnip-rooted Celery.

240

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Apple-shaped Celeriac. — A sub-variety of the Early Erfurt
kfrrd, with sHght, half-erect leaves, and long purplish leaf-stalks.
Root very regularly rounded in shape, and entirely free from
rootlets on the upper part.

There is an extraordinarily small kind of Turnip-rooted Celery,
the leaves of which are only 4 or 5 in. long, while the root is seldom

Apple-shaped Celeriac.

Large Smooth Prague Celeriac.

larger than a walnut. It is more curious than useful, and is known
as the Tom Thumb Erfurt Turnip-rooted Celery.

Prague Celeriac. — This may be described as a highly developed
form of the Erfurt variety, the roots of which are almost spherical,
evenly shaped, and without rootlets, except on the under-part.
They are usually double the size of those of the Erfurt variety,
and the leaf-stalks are somewhat stouter and whiter.

CHERVIL

Scandix Cerefoliumy L. ; Anthriscus Cere folium, HofTm. Umbtttifcr&

French, Cerfeuil. German, Kerbel. Flemish and Dutch, Kervel. Danish, Have-kjorvel.
Italian, Cerfoglio. Spanish, Perifollo. Portuguese, Cerefolio.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — Leaves very much
divided, with oval, incised, pinnatifid leaflets ; stem 16 to 20 in.
high, smooth and few-leaved ; flowers small, white, in umbels ; seed
black, long, pointed, marked with a longitudinal furrow. Their
germinating power lasts for two or three years. The seed may be
sown all through the year in the open ground, where the crop is to
grow, but in very hot weather it is better to sow in a shady position
with a northern aspect. According to the season, the leaves may

CHERVIL

Common, or Plain, CherviL

be 6ut in from six weeks to two months after sowing. The leaves
are aromatic, and are used for seasoning and in salads. It is in
much demand in Englislji
gardens.

Common, or Plain-
leaved, Chervil. — Leaves
slight, very much divided,
and light green ; stems
slender, slightly swollen
below the joints, chan-
nelled, and smooth;
flowers in thin umbels
produced in tiers on all
the upper half of the
stem. This is one of the
most widely distributed
and best known of all
kitchen-garden plants. It
is seldom used by itself,
but, from its fine, strong,
aromatic flavour, forms an
almost indispensable ac-
companiment to a great
number of dishes. It constitutes the basis of the mixture known
by the French name of fines herbes. It can be grown in almost
any climate, but where the heat is great, it should have a shaded
position.

Curled Chervil.— A variety of the preceding kind, with crisped

or curled leaves. It has
exactly the same per-
fume and flavour as the
Common, or Plain-leaved,
Chervil, and is better for
garnishing dishes. It
should always be grown
in preference to the
Common kind, as it has
all its advantages, viz. it
is easily cultivated, early,
Br of vigorous growth, pro-
ductive, and, as we have
just mentioned, it is
Curled Chervil handsomer and more

ornamental. Its chief

merit, however, is that it cannot be confounded with any other
plant ; for although the least practised eye may be able to

16

242; THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

distinguish the Chervil from other umbelliferous plants, there is
a double security in cultivating a form of it for which no noxious
wild plant whatever can possibly be mistaken.

TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL

Chcerophyllum bulbosum, L. Umbelliferce. Cerfeuil tubtreux.

Native of Southern Europe. — Biennial. — Plant hairy, with leaves
very much divided, spreading on the ground, and violet leaf-stalks.
Root much swollen, almost like a short Carrot, but generally
smaller, with a very fine dark gray skin and yellow-white flesh ;
stem very stout and tall, 3 ft. or more in height, swollen below the
joints, of a violet tint, and covered on the lower part with long
whitish hairs ; seeds long, pointed, slightly concave, light brown on

one side, whitish on the
other, and marked length-
ways with three furrows
of no great depth. Their
germinating power lasts for
only one year.

CULTURE. — The seed
should be sown in autumn,
in well-prepared, mellow,
well-drained soil, care being
taken to cover it very
slightly. It is generally
quite sufficient to press the
soil down well after sowine.

Turnip-rooted Chervil (| natural size). The seed_bed should &

kept very free from weeds, as the seeds will not germinate before
spring. The seed may also be sown in spring, if the precaution
is taken of keeping it in the meantime "between layers of sand
in a box, basin, or other vessel, in which it should be placed as
soon as it is ripe. If this is done, it will germinate immediately
after it is sown, but if kept in any other way, it will not
germinate until the spring of the following year. While growing,.
the plants require no attention at any time, except frequent
waterings. About July, the leaves begin to lose colour and to-
dry up, which indicates that the roots are nearly matured. When
the leaves are quite withered, the roots may be taken up, if the
ground is required for other purposes, but it is better not to com-
mence using them too soon, as they improve very much in quality
by being allowed to remain in the ground some weeks or even
months, provided they are in well-drained ground and safe
from frost

TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL 243

USES. — The roots are eaten boiled. The flesh is floury and
sweet, with a peculiar aromatic flavour. They keep well all through
autumn and winter. v

Attempts have been made of late years to introduce into kitchen-
gardens the culture of the Prescott Chervil (Cerfeuil de Prescott), a
native of Siberia, which produces large edible roots like those of the
variety just described, and is grown much in the same way. Its
roots are longer and larger than those of the Common Tuberous-
rooted Chervil, but their flavour is coarser and more like that of
the Parsnip. The seeds grow easily, but should not be sown
before July, or the plants will rapidly run to seed.

CHICKLING VETCH

Lathyrus sativus, L. Leguminosce.

French, Gesse cultivee, Lentille d'Espagne, Pois carre. German, Essbare Platterbse,
Weisse Platterbse, Deutsche Richer. Flemish, Platte erwt. Spanish, Arveja.
Spanish- American, Muelas.

Native of Europe. — Annual. — Stem winged, 16 to 20 in. high,
maintaining an erect position with difficulty without some support ;
leaves compound, pinnate, without an odd one, the place of which
is supplied by a prehensile tendril ; leaflets four in number, long
and narrow; flower-stalks slender, axillary, one-flowered, com-
mencing to appear at the fifth or sixth joint of the stem. Flowers
smaller than those of the Pea, but the same in shape, white, tinged
with blue on the standard ; pods broad and short, very flat, thick,
and winged ; seed white, somewhat variable in shape, triangular or
square, broader and thicker at the side of the hilum than at the
other side. The seed is sown in spring like Peas, in the place
where the crop is to grow, and the growing plants require no special
attention. The unripe seeds are eaten like green Peas ; when ripe
and dried, they may be used to make pea-soup. The use of this
Vetch is very little understood in England, but we have heard
that Spanish cooks make a nice dish of it.

CHICK-PEA

• Cicer arietinum, L. Leguminosce.

French, Pois chiche. German, Richer- Erbse. Italian, Cece. Spanish, Garbanzo.
Portuguese, Chicaro.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — A rough-stemmed plant,
almost always branching near the ground, and from 20 in. to 2 ft. in
height. Stem hairy, as are also the leaves, which are compound,
pinnate with an odd one, and with small, round, toothed leaflets ;
flowers axillary, small, solitary, white in the ordinary variety, and
red in the kinds which have coloured seeds ; pods short, much

244 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

swollen, hairy, like the rest of the plant, with a hard membranous
lining, each containing two seeds, one of which is often abortive.
Seed rounded, but flattened at the sides, and with a kind of beak
formed by the projection of the radicle ; its appearance resembles
that of a ram's head and horns, whence the specific name of the
plant. Its germinating power lasts, like that of all other Peas,
for at least three years.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in spring, as soon as the ground
is warm enough, preferably in drills 16 to 20 in. apart, and so that
the plants will be 8 to 10 in. from one another in the drill. They
are treated much in the same way as Dwarf Kidney Beans, and
require no attention except the occasional use of the hoe. They
bear dry weather better than almost any other kind of leguminous
plant. In the south of France the seeds may be sown in February.

USES. — The ripe seeds are eaten either boiled entire or made
into pea-soup. They are sometimes roasted and used as a substitute
for coffee.

White Chick-pea. — This is the most generally cultivated
variety, and, indeed, is the only one that deserves to be con-
sidered a table vegetable. There are a great many forms of it,
differing slightly from one another in earliness and the size of the
seed. In Spain some kinds of remarkable size and beauty are
grown.

There are two varieties of the Chick-Pea grown in the East, one
of which has red and the other black seeds. The former is very
extensively cultivated in the East Indies, both as a table vegetable
and for feeding cattle, and is one of the kinds known as Horse
Gram, as it is very much used for feeding horses. The Black-
seeded variety is more curious than useful.

CHICORY, or SUCCORY

CicJiorium Intybusy L. Composite.

French, Chicoree sauvage, C. Barbe-de-capucin. German, Wilde oder bittere Cichorie.
Danish, Sichorie. Italian, Cicoria selvatica, Radicchio, Radicia. Spanish,
Achicoria amarga o agreste. Portuguese, Chicorea selvagem.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Radical leaves deep green,
sinuated, with pointed, toothed, or cut lobes, and hairy, often red
stalks ; stems from 5 to over 6 ft. high, cylindrical, downy, green or
red, with spreading branches ; flowers large, blue, axillary, almost
sessile ; seed generally smaller, browner, and more glistening than
that of the Endive. Its germinating property lasts for eight
years.

The Common Chicory, which is found in almost all parts
of Europe in the wild state, has been used from time im-
memorial for salads, and also as a medicinal plant. When

CHICORY, OR SUCCORY

245

cultivated, its produce is increased in quantity and improved in
quality, the leaves losing much of their natural bitterness. Forced
in darkness, in winter, it forms the highly esteemed blanched
vegetable known as Barbe-de-capucin. The large-rooted variety
of it, treated in the same way, produces the vegetable known in
Belgium by the name of Witloof.

CULTURE. — The Common Chicory is an exceedingly easy plant
to grow. The seed is sown in spring, in the place where the crop
is to stand, in drills, or, more commonly, along the sides of
alleys, and is generally sown very thick, in order that the leaves
of the plants may be
closely crowded together.
The leaves are gathered
as they are wanted by
cutting them near the
ground with a sickle or
a knife. They may be
cut several times in the
same year. It is a good
plan to make a fresh
sowing every year, clear-
ing out the old plants
which have fallen off in
produce and are about
to run to seed. In
order to produce the
Barbe-de-capucin ^ plants
are employed which have
been sown rather thinly
in the open ground
about the end of June.
At the beginning of
winter these are taken
up, and the leaves are trimmed off about J in. above the neck of
the root; then, in a dark cellar, or other place, the temperature
of which is not too cold, sloping heaps are made, composed of
alternate layers of sand or of soil taken from well-drained ground,
and of Chicory-roots placed horizontally and with the necks of the
roots pointing outwards, clear of the sand or soil, so that the leaves
may grow freely. If the soil used is too dry, a slight watering will
be necessary, after which the plants are left to themselves, and in
about three weeks' time, if the temperature is not too low, leaves
8 to 10 in. long may be gathered.

A few years ago, in the neighbourhood of Paris, they began to
use for this purpose the Large-rooted Chicory, the roots of which
are allowed to attain the thickness of the finger before they are

Chicory, or Succory (blanched) (£ natural size).

246

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Red-leaved Lombardy Chicory.

forced. These roots, being very straight and regular in shape, are

easily arranged in the forcing heaps, and the leaves are generally

much larger and stouter than those of the Common Chicory.

USES. — The leaves
are used as salad, either
in their natural state or
blanched, as described
above. Cut into thin
shreds, and mixed with
oil and vinegar, they
are very largely used
in some countries as
a seasoning for boiled
beef.

Red Italian
Chicory. — The merit of
this variety consists in
the variegations which
sometimes cover the
entire surface of the

leaves and give a bronzed appearance to the green. On the

blanched leaves these blotches are a fine bright red, and a very

effective contrast. With this Chicory it is possible to have variegated

salads in winter, as with the blotched Lettuces and Cos Lettuces

during summer.

Large - rooted Chicory. —

This variety is distinguished

by the large size of the root,

which is thick and straight,

attaining a length of 12 to

14 in., with a diameter of about

2 in. below the neck. It is

the kind which is employed

for the manufacture of " Coffee

Chicory." This is obtained by

cutting the roots into thin slices,

which are then roasted and

ground. The plant is grown

for this purpose chiefly in Ger-

many, Belgium, and the north

of France. There are two very

distinct varieties of it, named the

Brunswick and the Magdeburg

Large-rOOted Chicory.

Brunswick Chicory G natural size).

The Brunswick variety has very deeply cut leaves, divided like
those of the Dandelion, and more or less spreading horizontally

CHICORY, OR SUCCORY

347

while the leaves of the

Magdeburg variety are

undivided and stand qiu'te

erect. The latter is con-
sidered the more productive

of the two. Its roots are

longer and thicker, although

not quite so regular. It is

not unusual to find single

roots of it which weigh

from 14 to 17 oz., and

which look very like dwarf

White Sugar Beets, such

as the German kinds, when

they are grown very close

together. As already men-
tioned, the Large - rooted

Chicory is often employed

to form \htBarbe-de-capucin.
Witloof, or Large

Brussels Chicory. — This

plant may be considered

as a sub-variety of the

Magdeburg Large - rooted

Chicory. Its principal merit consists in the width of its leaves

and the great size of their ribs or stalks. When blanched in the
way described farther on, it forms the vegetable
which the Belgians call Witloof, as already
mentioned. As shown in the illustration, this
very much resembles a blanched head of Cos
Lettuce in appearance.

CULTURE. — In order to obtain good specimens
of Witloof, well-grown roots of the plant should
be used ; and to obtain these the seed should
be sown in the open ground, in June, in drills
10 or 12 in. apart, selecting good, deep, rich soil
for the purpose. The plants are allowed to grow
on till the beginning of winter, without any
attention except keeping the ground free from
weeds, and watering when necessary. In the
beginning of November, the roots (which by that
time should have attained a diameter of from i£
to nearly 2 in.) are taken up, those which have
divided or too narrow leaves being thrown aside,
|f any such are met with, as well as any which
natural size), bear several heads. The leaves of all the selected

Magdeburg Chicory (^ natural size).

248 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

roots are then trimmed off about ij in. from the neck, and
any secondary shoots that may appear on the sides of the roots
are pinched out, the lower end of the roots being also shortened
so as to bring them all to a uniform length of 8 to 10 in They
are then ready for planting, for which a trench 16 to 18 in.
deep is opened, and the roots are placed upright in it, about
li in. from one another; the necks of the roots will thus be
about 8 in. below the level of the ground. The trench is then
filled up completely with good, light, well-drained soil. If a
speedy growth is desired, the surface of the trench, or of what-
ever portion of it is to be forced, should be covered with a layer of
manure varying in depth according to the quality of the manure
and the prevailing temperature, but never less than 16 in. nor
more than a little over 3 ft. In about a month's time, the leaves
will have attained their proper size. The manure is then taken
off, the roots are dug up, and the blanched head is cut off with a
portion of the neck of the root attached. Placing the layer of
manure under the roots has not been at all satisfactory, the heads
opening instead of remaining closed, from which it would appear

that a heavy pressure is
needed in order to induce
the heads to grow into the
right shape. The Witloof
is eaten raw as a salad, and
also boiled, like the Curled
Endives.

Broad -leaved Chicory.
— This is a very different-
looking plant from the

Broad-leaved Chicory (i natural size). Common Chicory, of which

it is a variety obtained by

successive sowings of seeds from selected plants. The leaves are
broad, very large, undulated, and sometimes crimped, always more
or less covered with short hairs, and often resembling those of the
Green Broad-leaved Winter Endive in their form and arrangement.
When the plant runs to seed, the flowering stems are exactly like
those of the Common Chicory, so that it is very certain that this
plant is a variety of it, and not a hybrid between the Common
Chicory and the Endive, 'as some persons are inclined to think.
We should be much more disposed to assign this hybrid origin to
the Curled-leaved Chicory, described farther on.

Improved Variegated Chicory. — A form of the preceding
variety, which has the leaves blotched and striped with red, or,
in the case of plants grown in the open air, with brown, which
changes to red if the plants are deprived of light. This very
bright variegation is very pretty in a salad.

CHICORY, OR SUCCORY

249

Curled-leaved Chicory. — This variety is curious from its
leaves being very finely cut, slashed, and curled. It resembles
an Endive to a certain ^extent. There is the more reason for
supposing it to be a cross between the two species as it is
extremely variable, the leaves being often nearly smooth, and it
does not appear to be quite as hardy as the other garden varieties
of Chicory.

M. Jacquin, sen., who has made assiduous and successful
attempts to improve the Common Chicory, succeeded in estab-
lishing a certain number of varieties. None of them, however, we
believe, are now in cultivation.

CHIVES

Allium Schcenoprasum, L. Liliacea.

Fretich, Ciboulette, Civette. German, Schnittlauch. Flemish and Dutch, Bieslook.
Italian, Cipollina. Spanish, Cebollino.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant growing in thick tufts.
Bulbs oval, small, scarcely as large as a hazel-nut, forming a com-
pact mass by the intertangling
of the fibrous roots ; leaves
very numerous, slender, and of
a deep green colour, resembling
those of a grass, but hollow,
like those of the Onion ;
flower-stems very little taller
than the leaves, bearing small
terminal clusters of violet-red
flowers, which are usually
barren. Chives are always
propagated by division of the
tufts. The best time for
dividing them is in March
or April. The plants are
usually grown as an edging,
and appear to do better that
way than when grown in a bed. It is a good plan to take
them up and replant them every two or three years, as this has
the effect of freshening up the tufts. The leaves, when wanted
for table use, are cut with a knife, and seem to grow more
vigorously the oftener they are cut. They are used for seasoning,
and are much grown in British gardens, more especially in
the north.

Chives.

2 $0

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

CLARY

Sah>ia Sctarea, L. Labiates. Sauge Selaree.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial, but cultivated as an annual
or a biennial. — An herbaceous plant, with the radical leaves very
broad, oval-obtuse, broadly sinuated or toothed, woolly haired,
gray-green, and crimped like the leaves of Savoy Cabbage. Stem

very tall, quadrangular,
branching in the upper
part and bearing long
spikes of white or lilac
flowers in clusters of two
or three ; seed brown or
marbled, smooth, and
shining. Their germina-
ting power lasts for three
years. The plants do
not run to seed until the
second year from the time
of sowing. After they
have flowered, it is better
to pull them up and
replace them by young
plants. The seed is sown
in April, in drills 16 to
20 in. apart, or in a
seed-bed, from which the
seedlings are pricked out
in May at the same
distance from one another. During the summer hoeing and
watering must not be neglected. In August, the first leaves
may be gathered, and the plants will continue to yield up to
June or July in the following year. The leaves are used for
seasoning.

CORIANDER

Coriandrum sativum, L. Umbellijerce.

French^ Coriandre. German, Coriander. Flemish and Diitch, Koriander. Italian..
Coriandorlo. Spanish, Culantro.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — Stem branching, 2 to
over 2^ ft. high ; radical leaves not much divided, with incised-
toothed leaflets of a rounded shape ; stem leaves very much
divided, with linear segments ; flowers small, whitish, in umbels.
Seed generally united in pairs, presenting the appearance of a
small seed-vessel of the Flax-plant. Each seed is hemispherical.

Clary (^ natural size ; detached sprig,
% natural size).

CORIANDER

251

slightly concave on the side which joins the other seed, and
lighter in colour than the outer and convex side, which is
brown-yellow and marked*
with deep longitudinal
furrows. Their germi-
nating power lasts for six
years. The Coriander
likes a warm and rather
light soil. The seed is
sown in autumn or spring,
and the crop comes in
in summer.

USES. — The seeds
form an important article
of commerce. They are
used in the manufacture
of liqueurs, and in a great
number of culinary pre-
parations. Some writers
say the leaves are used for
seasoning, but this state-
ment seems odd, as all the green parts of the plant exhale a very
strong odour of the wood-bug, whence the Greek name of the plant.

CORN-SALAD. M&cke.

A great number of kinds of Corn-salad, before running to seed,
form rosettes of tender edible leaves. The genus Valerianella, to
which they all belong, is very rich in species, and these are not
always easily distinguished from one another. They are, for the
most part, small plants of rapid growth, flowering but once, their
entire period of cultivation embracing the latter part of one year
and the early part of the next They generally run to seed in
April or May, and the seed, falling to the ground as soon as it is
ripe, seldom germinates before August. Amongst the most com-
monly grown kinds are Valerianella olitoria and V. eriocarpa.

COMMON CORN-SALAD, or LAMB'S-LETTUCE

Valerianella olitoria, Mcench. Valenanacece.

French, Mache commune. German, Feldsalat. Flemish and Dutch, Koornsalad.
Italian, Erba riccia. Spanish, Canonigos. Portuguese, Herva benta.

Native of Europe. — An annual autumnal plant, that is, germi-
nating from seed in autumn and flowering and seeding in the
ensuing spring. — Radical leaves sessile, of an elongated spoon-
shape, and of a slightly gray-green colour, with rather strongly

252

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

marked veins, and growing in pairs, placed cross-wise over one
another, and forming a rather dense rosette ; stem angular, entirely
herbaceous, forking several times, and bearing very small bluish
white flowers, in terminal clusters at the extremities of the
branches ; seed almost globular, slightly compressed, and gray in
colour. Their germinating power lasts for five years. This is one
of the commonest native plants, especially in cultivated ground,
and in some countries large quantities of it are gathered amongst
the growing crops of winter and spring wheat. The wild form,
however, is now seldom used for kitchen-garden culture, and is
only gathered where it is found growing naturally, having been
superseded in cultivation by the improved kinds which we are
about to describe.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown at the end of summer, or in
autumn, in any kind of soil, and the plant produces leaves from
October to spring, without requiring any attention or protection.
Generally, small thick-set plants are preferred to those of coarser
growth, the leaves of which become too large and long. Contrary
to what is experienced in the case of most other cultivated plants,
seeds of the Corn-salad sown the same year in which they ripened
do not germinate so soon or so well as those which are kept for a
year before they are sown.

This plant is grown to some ex-
tent by the London market-gardeners.
The seed is sown for succession crops
from August to October, the result
being a supply from October till
spring. There are two kinds grown
— the Round and the Regence ; the
former is considered the best for
winter use, but it runs to seed earlier
in spring than the latter kind, there-
fore the Regence is sown in October
for a supply after the Round kind
has run to seed. The land on which
the seed is sown is of a rich character,
and in many cases it is sown broad-
cast among winter Onions or some
similar crop for which the land has
been liberally manured and other-
wise well prepared. No more pre-
paration is needed beyond raking the
surface before and after the seed is
sown. In gathering, the plants are
pulled up by their roots, washed, -and
sold in small punnets. Most growers
save their own seed. For this pur-

pose a bed is specially prepared,
levelled, and made fine on the
surface, after which it is rolled
or otherwise pressed down firmly.
Good plants from the general sowing
are then selected and planted thickly,
and the bed is afterwards kept free
from weeds. In summer the seed
which ripens is allowed to fall on
the bed, after which the old plants
are pulled up and the seed is care-
fully swept off the hard surface
and placed in water to separate
it from the soil, which sinks to the
bottom. The seed is then dried
gradually in the sun and put in
bags in a dry place, and under
such conditions it will retain its
vitality perfectly for several years.
Corn-salad is not considered of
itself a paying crop, but when sown
amongst other crops it takes up but
little room, and therefore in such
cases may be considered to be fairly
remunerative.

COMMON CORN-SALAD, OR LAMB'S-LETTUCE 253

Round-leaved Corn-salad (5 natural size).

USES. The whole of the plant is used as a salad, and an

excellent and distinct salad it is, far too little used in England.

This forms with the oujer

stalks of Celery one of the

best mixed salads.

Round - leaved Corn-
salad. — A very distinct

variety, differing from the

Common kind in having

much shorter leaves, which

are narrow at the base and

widen upwards into an oval,

almost rounded, blade. They

also stand half-erect, instead

of spreading on the ground,

like those of the Common

kind, and are lighter green

in colour, with the veins

much less marked. The

plant is productive and of rapid growth, and is the kind which

is almost exclusively grown by the market-gardeners around Paris.

When sown in good soil in August, and kept carefully free from

weeds, it is wonderfully
productive.

Large-seeded Corn-
salad. — A strong-grow-
ing kind, differing from
the Common Corn-salad
in the greater size of
the plant, and also of
the seed, which is nearly
twice as large as that
of the other kind. The
leaves, like those of the
Common kind, are com-
paratively narrow for
their length, and are
slightly gray-green, and
marked with numerous
secondary veins. This
variety is very much
grown in Holland and

Large-seeded Corn-salad.

Germany.

Golden Corn-salad.

— This variety probably sprang from the Round-leaved Corn-salad;
which it resembles in size and habit, but differs from it in the

254

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

colour of the leaves, which are very light green with a pronounced
golden tinge on the parts exposed to the light. The leaves are

oval, broad, and very smooth. It
is used for salads, and when mixed
with the dark green varieties makes
a pleasant contrast

Etampes Corn-salad. — This
variety is especially characterised
by the extremely dark colour of
its leaves, which, like those of the
Common kind, are rather narrow
and marked very perceptibly with
veins ; they are also often undu-
lated or folded back at the edges.
The whole plant forms a rosette
Etampes Com-saiad (£ natural size), somewhat more compact and stiff

than of the Common kind, and

the leaves are rather thicker and more fleshy than those of the
other varieties. They bear cold weather remarkably well, and
they have the advantage of losing their freshness less than those
of any other kind while they are being brought to market — a
valuable quality in plants which have sometimes to be sent to
markets at a considerable
distance.

Cabbaging Corn-
salad. — A very distinct
variety, with short,rounded,
smooth, half-erect, stiff,
and intensely green leaves,
the veins of which are
hardly visible. It forms
a compact rosette, the
heart of which is full and
firm. It is, to all appear-
ance, a less productive
kind than the Round-
leaved variety, but firmer,
more compact, and much
more agreeable to the
taste in a salad. Like
the preceding variety, it
bears carriage well.

This is undoubtedly
the same variety as that
which was grown some years past under the name of Chevreuse
Smooth-leaved Green Corn-salad.

Cabbaging Corn-salad.

ITALIAN CORN-SALAD

255

ITALIAN CORN-SALAD

Valerianella eriocarpa, Desf. Mdche cFItalie, Rtgence.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — This species is easily
distinguished from the Common Corn-salad and its varieties by
the much lighter colour
and greater length of its
leaves, which are slightly
hairy, and somewhat
toothed on the edges to-
wards the base. Seeds
more or less pale brown,
flattened, convex on one
side and hollowed out on
the other into a deep
channel, and surmounted
by a sort of collar shaped
like a twisted paper bag.
Their germinating power
lasts for four years. This
variety is thought very
highly of in the south of
Europe, where it does not run to seed so soon as the Common
kind, but in the neighbourhood of Paris it has the drawback of
being somewhat sensitive to cold. Its culture and uses are exactly
the same as those of the Common variety.

Italian Corn-salad (£ natural size).

Lettuce-leaved Italian Corn-salad.

Lettuce-leaved Italian Corn-salad. — Leaves spreading on
the ground, broad, rounded, and a very peculiar golden tint. The

£56

THE VEGETABLE 6ARDEN

plant is larger and stouter than the ordinary Italian Corn-salad,
and more suitable for southern than for northern climates.

Varieties of Corn-
salad with variegated
leaves have often been
highly spoken of, but
none of them have ever
appeared to us to equal
the good varieties of
the green-leaved kinds.
Variegation, as a rule,
does not add to the value
of a table vegetable, and
it is almost always a sign
of weakness of growth.
Of these variegated kinds,
one has leaves marbled
with white, and another
has the heart and the
base of the central leaves
of a bright yellow colour.
These variegations, be-
coming more intense in
hue after the first touch
of frosty weather, have rather a pretty effect

The Spoon-leaved Corn-salad, now nearly superseded by the
Cabbaging Corn- salad, was distinguished mostly by its leaves
being hollowed in the shape of a spoon or hood.

Spoon-leaved Corn-salad.

CRESS, or GARDEN CRESS
Lepidium sativum, L. Cruciferce.

French, Cresson alenois. German, Garten-Kresse. Flemish, Hofkers. Dtttch, Tuinkers.
Danish, Havekarse. Italian, Agretto. Spanish, Mastuerzo. Portuguese, Mastri^o.

Native of Persia. — An annual plant of very rapid growth. — The
pungent flavour of its leaves has caused it to be used as a con-
diment from time immemorial, and its culture is so easy that it
finds a place in the humblest kitchen-garden. The radical leaves
are very much divided and very numerous, forming a straggling
rosette, from the centre of which soon rises a smooth branching
stem furnished with a few almost linear leaves. The flowers are
white, small, and four-petalled, and are succeeded by roundish pods,
which are very much flattened and slightly concave. The seeds
are comparatively large, furrowed, oblong, and of a brick-red colour ;

CRESS, OR GARDEN CRESS 257

they have a biting taste and a garlicky flavour. Their germinating
power lasts for five years.

CULTURE.— There is fio plant more easy to grow than this. It
may be sown at any time and in any kind of soil, with the certainty
of having leaves fit to cut in a few weeks ; only, during very hot
weather, it is best to sow in a moist and shaded position, in order
to obtain more tender and more abundant leaves. In summer it
is a good plan to make successional sowings, as the plants run very
quickly to seed. The seed germinates with very great rapidity.
In a temperature of 10° to 15° Centigrade (or 50° to 60° Fahrenheit)
it usually germinates in less than twenty-four hours. This rapid
growth is sometimes utilised for the purpose of furnishing rooms
with verdant foliage in winter, and to do this it is sufficient to
sprinkle Cress-seed plentifully on wet moss or sand, or on a vase
or anything else covered with wet moss or moist clay, and in a few
days a mass of verdure will be produced, which has a very pleasing
effect.

In the London market-gardens he then deftly takes the cut material
Cress is grown to a large extent, up with both hands and places it
along with Mustard, in beds made in an upright position in the pun-
on the floors of vineries, a portion net. So precisely do practised hands
being sown and a portion cut every perform this work, that one would
other day. During February and almost imagine the Mustard and
March the floors of such Vineries Cress had been sown in the punnets,
remind one of a verdant pasture, so During January, February, and
green and so healthy do the crops March, Mustard and Cress fetch
of Cress and Mustard in various from 2S. to 4*. per dozen punnets,
stages of growth appear. After sow- but later on they become much
ing, a good watering is given, and cheaper. Rape is often sold for
the beds are covered with mats until Mustard. It is mild in flavour
the seeds have germinated, when and, perhaps, equally wholesome;
they are immediately removed. The it is also stiffer, and keeps longer
Mustard and Cress are cut when in good condition in a cut state
they attain a height of i£ to 2 in., than Mustard. On hot -beds out-of-
a long-bladed knife with a crooked doors, in temporary frames, and in
handle being used for the purpose, warm moist borders, Mustard and
With this implement in one hand Cress are grown in enormous quan-
the operator cuts as much at a time tities, some using as much as 500
as he can hold with the other, which bushels of seed in one season! —
is about as much as will fill a punnet; C. W. S.

USES. — The radical leaves are much used as a condiment, and
for garnishing dishes, especially of roast meat. They are also used
for side-dishes and in salads.

Common Garden Cress. — This form, which is most commonly
grown, is a decided improvement on the wild plant. The leaves
are larger, of a deeper green colour, and more abundantly
produced.

17

258

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Curled, or Normandy, Garden Cress. — In this variety the
divisions of the leaves are finer and more numerous than in the

Common Cress.

Curled Cress.

Common kind ; they are also curled and more or less twisted on
themselves, which gives the foliage a very pleasing appearance.

Extra Curled Dwarf Garden Cress.— A distinct kind, of
compact growth, with leaves cut to the midrib forming lobes toothed

and curled at the edges. By this
and its greater pungency it may
easily be told from the other
varieties.

Extra Curled Dwarf Cress.

Broad-leaved Cress.

Broad-leaved Garden Cress. — This variety differs from the
type in having the blade of the leaf entire, without any divisions

CRESS, OR GARDEN CRESS

259

and merely notched here and there on the edges. The leaves
are oval in shape, about 2, in. long, and about I in. broad. They
have slender stalks and a somewhat irregular outline.

Golden, or Australian, Garden Cress.— This might be taken
for a sub-variety of the Large-leaved Garden Cress, as the leaves
are similar in shape and only differ in their colour, which is a pale
yellowish green, and always so marked that it strikes even the most
unpractised eye at once. These two varieties differ so much in the
appearance of their leaves from the Common Garden Cress, that
any one seeing them growing side by side before flowering might
think they were plants of quite different species.

WATER-CRESS

Nasturtium ojpcinaley R. Br. Cruciferce.

French, Cresson de fontaine, C. de ruisseau, Sante du corps. German, Brunnenkresse.
Flemish and Dutch, Waterkers. Danish, Brondkarsen. Italian, Nasturzio acquatico,
Crescione di fontana. Spanish, Berro de agua. Portuguese, Agroiao d'agua.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — An aquatic plant, with long
stems, which readily take root, and which even send out into
the water white rootlets
serving to supply the
plant with nutriment.
Leaves compound, with
rounded divisions,slightly
sinuated, and of a dark
green colour ; flowers
small, white, in terminal
spikes ; seeds usually few,
very fine, in slightly
curved siliques or pods.
Their germinating power
lasts for five years.

CULTURE.— The plea-
sant and pungent flavour
of the Watercress, and
also its well - known
hygienic properties, have
from time immemorial
caused it to be highly

Water-cress (£ natural size).

esteemed for table use. The preference which the plant exhibits
for moist positions and even running streams renders the cultiva-
tion of it rather difficult, so that most people are content to gather
it where it grows naturally in brooks, ditches, or springs. In the
neighbourhood of some large towns, however, it is cultivated

260 . THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

systematically, and usually very profitably. For this purpose
a portion of a meadow or pasture field is selected which has
a clear stream or rivulet running by or through it, and across
this portion, from one side to the other, a number of large
trenches are excavated. These are from about 16 to 20 ft. wide,
and about 13 ft. distant from one another, and are so arranged
that the water may run from one to another. This is managed
by having a slight difference in the level of the trenches, so that
the water may run out of each of them at the end opposite to
that at which it flowed in. Thus the water does not finally leave
the trenches until it has made a long serpentine course through all
of them. After the soil at the bottom of the trenches has been
properly dug and manured, the finest and strongest stems that can
be selected are pricked in with a dibble. The water is then let into
the trenches— just so much for a week or two as will cover the
cuttings — and the plants are not interfered with until they have
grown strong enough to allow the leaves to be gathered without
injury. After the plants are well established, and growing
vigorously, the leaves may be gathered all through the year, except
in very frosty weather, when the trenches should be flooded and
entirely submerged for the protection of the plants.

Some growers plant the cuttings in a specially prepared ditch,
allowing the water to rise as the plants grow in length. When the
plants have grown 4^ to 7 in. in height, they are pulled up care-
fully with their roots and dropped singly into other trenches that
have been filled with water to about one-half their depth, some
well-decayed cow-manure being also dropped in at frequent
intervals. The plants, carried by the flowing water, collect at the
lower end of the ditch in close touch with the manure, when they
soon start into luxuriant growth. The water is then at its normal
height.

In many cases sowing the seed will be found the best means of
propagation. The bottom of a small shallow trench is carefully
prepared for receiving the seed, which, being very small, is mixed
with some dry earth or sand sown broadcast and slightly raked in.
The soil is then cautiously watered and kept moist until the plants
show their first leaves, when the water is let in, but only so much
as will barely cover the plants. When a few inches high, the plants
are pulled up in small tufts and planted in other trenches, into
which water is admitted and kept steadily on a level with the tops
of the plants, until the ditch is completely filled.

Plantations of the same kind, on a smaller scale, might be made
anywhere where there is a sufficient supply of pure fresh water. It
is not even absolutely necessary that it should be running water, if
it can be renewed often enough to keep it clear and pure. Water-
cress has been grown almost without water, by planting it in tubs

WATER-CRESS

261

half-filled with good soil and kept in a moist, shaded position, under
which circumstances occasional waterings will suffice for the growth
of the plants. This mode of culture, however, has its drawbacks,
and all who attempt it are not equally successful.

Water-cress is said to have grown
in a wild state on the banks of
the Thames and other places near
London for many years before its
culture for market was attempted
on anything like an extensive scale,
and there being then little demand
for it, the supplies from these quar-
ters were sufficient ; but as it gained
popularity in France, Prussia, and
elsewhere, so the demand for it in
London also increased, and beds for
its .culture were formed at Spring-
head and Northfleet, near Gravesend,
as far back as the beginning of
the nineteenth century. Springhead
Cress is still noted for its superior
quality. Large supplies are now
obtained from Waltham, Cheshunt,
and other low-lying places near the
Great Eastern Railway, and the
annual amount icalised by
growers for London alone
is very great. The space
at Springhead allotted to
Water - cress culture is
about three acres in ex-
tent, and consists of a
winding ditch varying in
width from 6 to 20 ft.
The supply of water is
furnished by numberless
springs of fresh clear
water, which bubble out
near the banks of the
stream in various places.
The water contains a
good deal of iron, and
on the sides of the Cress-
beds, where it is some-
what stagnant, the Cress
assumes a less healthy
colour than that in the
middle of the stream.
The Cress-beds at

Springhead lie in a warm sheltered
valley ; the sloping banks on both
sides of the stream, which appear
to be exceedingly fertile, are
covered with fruit-trees, such as
Apples, Plums, etc. The Water-
cress is replanted yearly, generally
in August and September, and some-
times in spring. Tufts of the roots
are taken up and pulled apart, and
planted in rows about i ft. apart,
after which they are trodden or
rolled down, with a view to induce
the roots to take quickly. The
water is just deep enough to cover
the roots, and when fully grown the
young shoots in summer form a
miniature meadow of Watercress.
Cutting is done three times a week,
as much being cut at a time as the
markets require.

Improved Broad-leaved Water-cress.

262

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

USES. — The Water-cress is such a well-known plant that a
description of its uses is almost superfluous. At Paris, where the
market is always very abundantly supplied with it, it is used for
garnishing, in salads, and sometimes also boiled and minced, like
Spinach. Serving fresh good Cress in liberal quantities with
broiled meat or roast fowl should be more general in England.

Improved Broad-leaved Water-cress. — For some years past
this variety has been a favourite in the Paris markets. The culture
and uses are exactly the same as those of the Common Water-cress,
but the leaves are much larger, more tender, and more pungent.

AMERICAN, or BELLE-ISLE, CRESS

Barbarea prcecox, R. Br. Erysimum pr<zcox> L. Cruciferce.

French, Cresson de terre. German, Amerikanische Winterkresse. Flemish, Wilde kers.

Danish, Winterkarse.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — The leaves of this plant have
some resemblance to those of the Water-cress, but the plant itself

always grows on the dry
land. If sown in spring, it
forms during the summer
a tolerably full rosette of
compound leaves of a dark
and very glistening green
colour. In the following
spring the flower -stems
make their appearance, and
bear rather long spikes of
bright yellow flowers, which
are succeeded by slender
siliques or pods, containing
small, gray, rough-skinned
seeds, slightly flattened on
one side and round on the
other. Their germinating power lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — This is extremely simple and easy. The seed
may be sown during the whole of the spring, summer, and
autumn, in any kind of garden soil, and successional sowings
are unnecessary, as there is no fear of the plants running to seed
too soon. On the other hand, if the plant is easily grown, its
produce is not so valuable as that of the Water-cress or the Common
Garden Cress, as the leaves are always hard, and their pungent
flavour is accompanied with a certain amount of acidity. The
radical leaves are used for seasoning and garnishing.

The Winter Cress of English gardens is Barbarea vulgaris^
R. Br. (Erysimum Barbarea, L.). Its culture and uses are precisely
the same as those of the American Cress.

American, or Belle-Isle, Cress (£ natural size).

MEADOW-CRESS

263

MEADOW-CRESS

Cardamine prattnsis, L. Cruciferce.
French, Cresson des pres. German, Wiesenkresse. Spanish, Berros de prado.

Native of Europe.— Perennial. — A wild plant, common in moist
meadows and on the banks of rivers, etc. Leaves pinnate, some-
what like those of the Water-cress, but far less fleshy and often
tinged with violet-brown ; stem erect, furnished with a few leaves
cut into linear divisions ; flowers of fair size, rose-coloured or pale
lilac, opening very early in spring ; seed small, oblong, irregular in
shape, and brown. Their germinating power lasts for four years.
This plant is not of much value as a table vegetable. There is,
however, a double-flowered variety which, with its clusters of pale
lilac blossoms, is pretty in gardens when winter has just ended.
The leaves have a biting and pungent taste.

PARA CRESS

Spilanthes oleracea, L. Composites.

French, Cresson de Para. German, Hussarenknopf. Flemish, ABC kruid.

Native of the West Indies.— Annual. — An almost creeping
plant, with entire oval leaves, which are truncate at the base.

Flowers in conical heads,
without petals, and of a
yellow colour, borne on
the top of the stem ; seed
very small, oval, flat,
grayish, and covered with
small round prominences.
Their germinating power
lasts for at least five years.
The seed is sown, in the
place where the crop is
to grow, in March or
April. The plants com-
mence to flower in about
two months afterwards,
and continue to bloom all
through the summer. In
hot weather they require
to be watered plentifully.

USES. — The leaves Brazil Cress ^ natural size).

mixed with salads impart

a pungent flavour, and have the effect of stimulating the action of
the salivary glands. This use of them is not common, and the plant
belongs to the province of pharmacy rather than the kitchen garden.

254 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Brazil Cress.— This plant appears to differ from the Para Cress
. only in the brown tint of its stems and leaves, which also extends
to the upper part of the flower-heads. The culture and uses of the
two plants are exactly the same.

CUCUMBER
Cucumis sativus, L. Cucurbitacece.

French^ Concombre. German, Gurke. Flemish and Dutch, Komkommer. Danish,
Agurken. Italian, Cetriulo. Spanish, Cohombro. Portuguese, Pepino.

Native of the East Indies. — Annual.— A creeping plant, with
herbaceous stems, flexible, angular from the first, rough to the
touch, and furnished with tendrils. Leaves alternate, placed
opposite the tendrils, angular heart-shaped, bluntly toothed, rough
like the stem, dark green on the upper surface and gray underneath.
Flowers axillary, on short stalks, more or less green-yellow, some
male, others female, the latter placed on the top of the ovary, which
becomes the fruit, and which is of some size before the flower opens
on it. The plant continues to produce flowers in succession for a
long time, and the intervention of insects or of man seems to be
necessary to fertilise them. The fruit is oblong and more or less
cylindrical, smooth, or bearing protuberances which end in a hard
spine ; flesh abundant and watery. . Seed yellow-white, very flat,
long oval, enclosed in three longitudinal compartments, which are
filled with a pulpy substance, and are nearly as long as the fruit
itself. Their germinating power seldom declines before the tenth
year.

CULTURE. — The Cucumber is that with a span roof, a pathway
grown extensively in almost all running through the centre, and a
parts of the world, and in warm bed on each side. The size of the
countries is brought to perfection house must depend upon the
without the aid of artificial heat, demand. Small houses are, how-
In Great Britain, however, the case ever, best for Cucumber-growing ;
is different ; and in order to secure and if two can be used for them
a good supply of Cucumbers, even and Melons alternately, it will be
during the warmest seasons of the found much more convenient than
year, artificial heat is indispensable, having one large house. A house
Cucumbers are grown in a variety of entirely devoted to Cucumber-
ways — as in houses, pits, frames, etc., growing all the year round must
and occasionally out-of-doors. The necessarily be larger than when it is
best mode of culture is that of only used for winter or spring crops
growing them in houses, which, if — inasmuch as, having to keep up a
properly constructed, will yield a continuous succession, fresh planta-
supply at all seasons of the year, tions must be constantly made ;
Propagation is effected by seeds and therefore the best kind of house is
cuttings. The best kind of house is that with a bed on each side, as,

CUCUMBER

265

before mentioned, planting the beds
alternately as each set of plants
becomes exhausted. A span-roofed
house, from 15 to 20 ft. long and
10 or 12 ft. wide, will, if properly
managed, afford a sufficient supply
for most private establishments, un-
less they are very extensive. Houses
with comparatively low-pitched roofs
generally yield the best results, with
least trouble from scorching or red
spider. They should be built high
enough to allow of head-room, but
not higher than is really necessary,
as low, close houses are most suit-
able. Heat produced by hot-water
pipes is decidedly the best for giving
warmth, as it is of a more humid
nature than that produced by flues.
There should always be sufficient
piping to keep up the required
temperature without being obliged
to make the pipes intensely hot —
the latter being productive of many
evil results, such as scalding, red
spider, etc. Evaporating pans,
placed over the pipes, are of great
assistance in keeping the atmo-
sphere of the house in a moist
state. Cucumbers may be success-
fully grown in low lean-to houses,
with no other glass than that of the
roof — the heat being supplied by
means of a brick flue running round
the house, and a stage consisting of
rough wooden slabs or planks, sup-
ported upon brick piers or wooden
posts, erected over the flue along
the front of the house. The stage
should be 3 1 ft. from the glass, which
will allow for 18 in. of soil, and
12 in. for the plants to grow before
reaching the trellis, supposing the
trellis to be 12 in. from the glass.
If the front of the stage be boarded
up, a good bottom-heat may be
secured.

Bottom heat is considered by
many to be indispensable in Cucum-
ber-growing; this, however, has

been proved to be a mistake, and
we have often seen the best Cucum-
bers grown without it. That plants
are benefited to a great extent by
the use of bottom heat judiciously
applied, we do not for a moment
dispute ; but still it is not absolutely
necessary, except in the case of early
Cucumbers grown in pits and frames.
Where, however, it is applied, it
must be done with judgment, for
there are often crops of Cucumbers
ruined by an excessive bottom heat.
Stable manure is frequently used to
supply bottom heat to Cucumbers ;
and where it can be properly regu-
lated it is the best. As the heat
gradually declines, the roots descend
into the decaying manure and draw
therefrom a vast amount of nourish-
ment to support the heavy crops of
fruit they carry. A considerable
amount of labour in root-watering
is also saved. In private gardens
hot water is much cleaner and per-
haps gives less trouble, and where
the pipes are laid in a tank, and the
tank at intervals supplied with
liquid manure, good results can be
obtained.

WINTER AND SPRING CUCUMBERS.
— For this crop many cultivators
obtain plants by means of cuttings,
with the view of getting fruit quicker
than from those raised from seed.
There can be no doubt that if cut-
tings be put in at the same time as
seeds, the cuttings will make plants
capable of bearing fruit earlier ; but
they will not continue in a bearing
condition so long, nor produce such
good fruit, as healthy seedling plants.
Where any particular kind is grown,
and it is desirable to keep it true,
propagation by cuttings is the only
sure way of attaining that object ;
but as a rule seedling plants are the
best. Where, however, cuttings are
preferred, they should be put in
about ten or twelve days before they

266

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

are required to be planted out. The
best way is to stop the plants from
which the cuttings are to be taken
a week or two previously ; they will
then send out side-shoots, which
should be taken off with a joint of
the older wood attached to them,
and inserted singly in small pots
well drained and filled with a com-
post of leaf-mould, loam, and sand,
in equal parts. If inserted close to
the side of the pot, they will strike
sooner than if placed in the centre.
The pots should then be plunged in
a bottom heat of 70°, have a hand-
light or bell-glass placed over them,
and be shaded from the sun ; and if
kept well watered and sprinkled
overhead, they will be sufficiently
rooted in a few days to allow of the
hand-lights being taken off; thus
the plants will be gradually inured
to the light and sun, which treat-
ment will effectually prevent them
from becoming drawn. If the plants
be likely to become pot-bound before
the bed is ready to receive them,
they should be shifted into larger
pots, otherwise they will be materially
injured. In order to obtain a good
supply of Cucumbers during the
winter and spring, it is necessary to
sow sufficiently early to allow of the
plants becoming strong and in a
fruit-bearing condition before the
short dark days arrive ; strong plants
should therefore be in readiness for
putting out not later than the end
of September. If plants be obtained
from cuttings, they will require to be
put in the second or third week in
that month ; if from seed, a week or
ten days earlier.

Many cultivators soak their Cu-
cumber seeds in water for a few
hours previously to sowing ; and in
the case of old or very dry seeds it
is an excellent plan, inasmuch as it
softens the seeds and causes them
to germinate quicker than they

otherwise would. There are various
methods of sowing : some growers
sow single seeds in small pots, and
thence turn them out into the beds ;
others sow a quantity of seed thickly
in pans or large pots, and transplant
them. We have found it a very
excellent plan to put two or three
seeds into 48-sized pots half filled
with light leaf-mould and sand, just
covering the seeds, and when they
are up select the strongest of the
plants to remain, and pinch the
others out. By the time the remain-
ing plants have made a pair of
rough leaves, roots will frequently
be seen pushing from the bases of
the stems. The pots should then
be filled up with soil to within half
an inch of the rim, into which their
roots will quickly penetrate, and
thereby strengthen the plants, and
afford them more room to grow
without disturbing the roots, as
would be the case in re-potting or
transplanting. In whatever way
they may be sown, they should, if
possible, be placed in a gentle
bottom heat, and kept moderately
moist until they are up, when they
must be placed near the glass, or
where they can obtain plenty of
light and sun, in order to keep them
dwarf and stocky. Whilst the
plants are becoming established the
bed should be prepared for plant-
ing, bottom heat being provided by
means of hot-water pipes or ferment-
ing material. A layer of good thick
turves should be laid on the bottom
of the bed, grassy side downwards ;
upon this lay the soil in a ridge
along the centre of the bed, and
when it is sufficiently warm the
plants may be turned out into it
2 ft. apart, planting them i or 2 in.
deeper than they were in the pots, and
afterwards watering them copiously
with tepid water. A good brisk
heat should be kept up until the

CUCUMBER

267

plants get well established in the
beds — say 65° by night and 70° by
day, allowing the glass to rise 10°
higher by sun-heat, with a bottom-
heat of 65° to 70°. After the plants
begin to root freely into the soil in
the bed, air should be admitted in the
morning on every favourable oppor-
tunity, closing early in the afternoon
in order to secure all the sun-heat
possible. No more fire-heat than is
absolutely necessary to keep up the
required temperature should be used,
inasmuch as all plants thrive much
better under the influence of solar
than of artificial heat. The sub-
sequent treatment consists of train-
ing the leaders of the plants up the
wires and stopping them when they
reach the top. This will cause
them to send out side-shoots all the
way up the stem, which shoots
should also be stopped at the second
or third joint; these shoots always
show fruit, but only one or two
should be left on each plant at first,
and more as the plants get older
and stronger. The stopping of the
shoots must be continued at every
second or third joint from the last
pinch, and also thinned out when
needful. Crowding of the wood
and foliage should always be
avoided. The object of planting
2 ft. apart at first is only to secure
a good crop of Cucumbers early by
taking one or two fruits off each
plant as soon as possible ; but this
space is too little ultimately for each
plant, and when it becomes neces-
sary, every alternate plant may be
removed to give the others more
room. Watering must be attended
to regularly. The bed should be
kept moist, and when water is given
it should be a thorough soaking till
it runs out at the bottom of the
bed, and should always be of the
same temperature as that of the soil.
Syringing in the morning and after-

noon must also be attended to,
and more or less air should be ad-
mitted according to the state of the
weather. The roots should be top-
dressed every two or three weeks
with a little fresh soiL If these
simple directions be carried out, a
supply of Cucumbers during the
winter and spring will not be found
a difficult matter. The Cucumber
is an easy plant to grow ; unlike the
Melon, the fruit is not wanted ripe,
' but only when half swelled ; and
the way to obtain it is to keep the
plants in a healthy growing state.

CUCUMBERS IN PITS AND FRAMES,
— Where hot-water pits are employed
for growing winter Cucumbers, it is
a good plan to apply a thick lining
of fermenting material round the
pit; also a covering of mats or other
warm material over the glass during
the night ; by these means less fire-
heat will be required, and the plants
consequently kept in a healthier con-
dition. To train Cucumbers, pieces
of wire trellis-work should be fitted
in each light about i ft from the
glass, the bed containing the plants
being about 8 or 9 in. below this,
which will afford greater facility for
applying top-dressing; whereas if
the ordinary mode of pegging down
be adopted, top-dressing cannot be
given without injury to the foliage.
The greatest objection to pits for
winter Cucumbers is the incon-
venience of attending to the plants
in severe weather ; and plants are
frequently allowed to run wild and
get dry at the roots, in consequence
of not being able to take off the
lights when there is a continuance
of frosty weather. Where there is
no other convenience for growing
Cucumbers in winter, a few plants
may be put into large pots and
placed in the corners of a warm
house, such as a Pine or plant stove.
The pots should be well drained and

268

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

filled three parts full of compost,
adding a little at a time, as the
plants require it, until the pots are
full. Plenty of water must be given
them, without causing the soil to
become sodden, and when they are
in bearing, occasional soakings of
manure-water will be beneficial in
keeping them in a healthy state.

SUMMER AND AUTUMN CUCUM-
BERS.— Plants put out in September
will, if properly treated, continue in
bearing until May or June; there-
fore, to have plants ready to succeed
them, a sowing should be made
early in April, and grown either in
houses, pits, or hot-beds, whichever
is at hand ; these will generally con-
tinue in bearing until August, by
which time plants that have been
put out in cold frames, such as those
in which Potatoes have been grown,
will be in bearing, and these, if
liberally treated, will give a supply
far into the autumn. They will,
however, require to have linings
applied, and be covered up at night
when the cold nights set in. If
thus treated they will Jast until late
in October, by which time those
planted for winter will be progress-
ing towards fruit-bearing. Where a
hot-water pit can be spared, a few
plants may be put out in July or
August, to give supplies during the
early part of the winter.

GROWING CUCUMBERS ON HOT-
BEDS.— Though hot-beds have been
superseded to a great extent by hot-
water pipes, they still occupy a place
in gardens, especially in those of
moderate extent, and are often
very serviceable as Cucumber and
propagating frames combined. A
moderate and steady temperature is
what is required, and this can be
secured in a well-made hot-bed for
six months. The materials required
for a lasting hot-bed are stable litter
and leaves in equal quantities; in

the absence of leaves, use half-
decayed hot-bed manure, refuse
turf-choppings, or any other mate-
rials likely to moderate the fermenta-
tion of the stable litter — a material
to be had in most establishments.

The first consideration is the
choice of a site for the bed, which
should always be in a dry and shel-
tered situation. Nothing extracts
heat so rapidly as cold winds ; in-
deed, where a hot-bed is made up
annually, it is better to have it
sunk two-thirds in the ground. It
would be preferable, in fact, to
have it wholly in the ground, but as
the bed will settle down at least
one-third of its height during the
summer, the frame would get below
the ground-line, which would be in-
convenient. For a frame 9 by 5 ft.
the pit would require to be 14 ft.
long and 10 ft. wide; and if the bed
were intended to last eight or nine
months it should be quite 4 ft. deep —
which, allowing one-third of the bed
to be above ground, would give a
total depth of 6 ft. of fermenting
material. If the pit be double-
boarded with strong rough deal, so
as to form a 2-in. cavity all round
between the earth and the sides of
the bed, the heat will last a consider-
able time longer, as the cavity pre-
vents the bed from being robbed of
its heat by the cold earth. Another
advantage of having a pit for the
bed is that the latter is made with
greater facility, for it requires a
skilled hand to build up a compact
and permanent hot-bed on the sur-
face of the ground. Whatever kind
of site is chosen, the next step is
to have the materials placed con-
veniently near. These may be
thrown roughly together the first
time, sprinkling plenty of water
upon them if they be at all dry.
In a week or ten days the heap
will usually be found to be heating

CUCUMBER

269

violently, when it should be turned
over again, taking care to mix the
litter thoroughly, adding more water
if required. A week or so later it
will want another turning, which as
a rule ought to be sufficient to bring
it into a fit condition for making up
into a bed, even though it be heating
strongly, for the temperature will
subside a good deal after the mate-
rials are well trodden down. Where
the hot-bed is the only accommoda-
tion, the seed, of course, cannot be
sown till the bed is ready; but where
there is a hothouse or pit, it is by
far the best to sow the seed about
the time the first preparations are
made for making the bed ; and when
the bed is ready the plants will be
strong and fit 'for planting. The
seed may be sown in small pots, well
drained, and the seeds covered with
about J in. of fine soil, and the pots,
if possible, plunged in a bottom heat
of 75° or 80°, with a moist atmo-
spheric heat of from 65° to 70° at
night, and 75° to 80° by day. The
seeds should not be watered for a
day or two after planting, when they
should be well soaked ; and from
this time forward the soil about the
roots of the plants should never be
allowed to get dry, nor wet enough
to become sour. When the plants
are up they should be placed
near the glass, to keep them
strong and stocky, and should be
planted out before they become
pot-bound.

In preparing the bed for planting,
the bottom of the frame should be
covered with turves, grassy side
downwards ; on the top of these lay
a ridge of soil the whole length of
the frame. This should afterwards
be levelled up, as the plants root out
in both directions. Frequent soil-
ings are an evil in hot-bed culture,
for such operations cannot be per-
formed without disarranging the

foliage and injuring the plants. The
bed being prepared, and presuming
the bottom heat to have subsided to
about 75° or 80°, the plants should
be planted, one in the centre of
each light. If not done before, they
should at the same time have their
tops pinched off above the second
or third leaf. After planting, with
the assistance of linings, in the shape
of stable litter and a careful economi-
sation of sun-heat, the bottom heat
may be kept at 70° at least, and the
top heat at 70° at night, and 80° or
85° with sun. In very bright weather
a shading of thin canvas should be
rolled over the frame during the
hottest part of the day, but shading
should not be resorted to more than
can be helped. Air must be admitted
at all times, and even in severe
weather the sashes should be raised
the thickness of a label to let the
steam escape. The bed should be
kept moist, but not sodden, and the
plants should be sprinkled every
afternoon • in bright weather with
soft, clean, tepid water. Under this
treatment they will soon start into
growth by sending out two strong
leaders below where they were
pinched. One should be trained
towards the back of the frame and
the other towards the front, and
when they have come within about
i ft. of the sides of the frame they
should be pinched again, which will
cause them to throw out laterals,
showing fruit in all probability,
which, with the exception of three
or four on each limb, should be
picked off and the laterals stopped
one joint beyond the fruit. If the
foliage be large and vigorous, it will
perhaps be found advantageous to
cut out some of the laterals alto-
gether. It is much better to thin
out the foliage and wood frequently
than to let the plants get over-
crowded, and then cut out a great

270

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

quantity of wood at one time. After
this the training of the plants con-
sists in laying the shoots out, so as
to cover the bed, stopping them
regularly, and disposing of them
generally so as to secure the greatest
amount of light and air possible to
every leaf. The plants should not
be allowed to bear too heavily, if
expected to keep up the supply for
any length of time. When cropped
moderately, and the fruit cut as fast
as it is ready, the plants bear con-
tinuously from April to November.

SOIL AND MANURE. — A great
depth of soil is unnecessary for
Cucumbers ; indeed, it is to be
avoided, for they will succeed far
better if they be planted in a little
soil at first, and receive frequent
top-dressings afterwards. For plant-
ing, 8 or 10 in. of soil is quite deep
enough, if the bed receive slight
dressings of stable manure mixed
with soil to keep the plants in a
vigorous state of health. Good turfy
loam mixed with rotten manure is
the best material in which to plant
them, but the dressing should be of
a richer nature. Many people use
a quantity of peat mixed with the
loam for winter Cucumbers; others
use leaf-mould, but it is too light :
the plants thrive well in it, but do
not last so long nor fruit so freely as
when grown in more holding soil.
Cocoa-nut fibre refuse is highly
recommended by some as a good
dressing for Cucumber beds; but
stable manure is by far the best kind
of surfacing, and may be applied
fresh from the stable, and if a little
old mortar or brick rubbish be mixed
therewith, it will be better still.
Weak guano-water is the best kind
of stimulant to apply to Cucumbers ;
other kinds of manure-water are
said to affect the flavour of the
fruit. Abundance of water is at
all times necessary to Cucumber-

plants growing under advantageous
circumstances.

IN MARKET-GARDENS. — During
summer the long ranges of pits and
frames in market-gardens devoted
in winter to the production of
tender culinary plants are applied
to Cucumber culture, and from
these are cut thousands of fruits
weekly. Indeed, few frame crops
pay better than Cucumbers where
they succeed well, and therefore
every frame that can possibly be
spared is planted with them. One
grower at Fulham has a field
of frame-ground, containing many
ranges of frames with from 800 to
1,000 ordinary sashes, in summer
entirely devoted to Cucumbers.
From this field are sent to market
weekly during the summer from 200
to 220 dozen fruit. Two or three
men are usually kept at work in
these frame-grounds, and on three
days of the week (Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday) they are employed
in cutting fruit for market, and on
the other three week-days they are
busy stopping and regulating the
shoots of the Cucumbers, watering,
etc. Should any young fruits ex-
hibit a tendency to become crooked,
they put them into cylindrical glasses
open at both ends. These glasses
are about 12 or 15 in. long, and
i£ or 2 in. in diameter, and several
thousands of them are employed in
one large frame-ground, as one good
and straight Cucumber is worth
nearly a dozen small and deformed
ones. The crooked ones are dis-
posed of for pickling. Should any
" nosed " fruits, as they are termed,
or such as have swelled at the point,
be found, which occurs late in the
season, a piece of string is tied round
them, and they are left to ripen, as
such fruits are certain to contain
good seed. When the seed-fruits
become yellow and are cut, they are

CUCUMBER

271

placed under sashes or on boards ex-
posed to the sun, so that the seeds
get thoroughly ripe and hard before
being separated from the pulp.

The first sowing to supply plants
for growing in frames is made in
little punnets or flower-pots, early in
the year, which are placed in hot
manure frames. When the seeds
germinate and are fit for potting off,
two plants are potted into a 6 in.
pot, and the whole replaced in the
frames, keeping them near the glass.
As soon as the frames to be planted
can be spared, they are moved aside,
and trenches cast out 5 ft. wide and
2 ft deep, and firmly filled with
stable litter. Over this some soil is
placed, and the frames set on again.
Another sowing is generally made
to succeed the first one ; but, as a
rule, there are seldom more than
two sowings made, and the second
is only sown because all the frames
are not empty at one time to be filled
by the first sowing. When the heat
is at a proper temperature for plant-
ing, a little more soil is introduced
into the frames, and one potful (con-
taining two plants) is planted under
each sash, and one of the plants is
trained towards the front of the
frame and the other towards the
back. The sashes are then put on
and all is kept close for a few days,
and, if need be, a little shading is
also given by strewing some litter
over the glass. Afterwards, until
the plants have fairly begun to grow,
no more ventilation 'is given than is
necessary to prevent scorching in the
case of bright sunshine. For several
weeks after having been planted
they are covered up at night with
litter, removing it next morning ;
indeed, this covering is not dis-
continued until the month of June.
When the plants have grown suffi-
ciently to come into bloom, they
are most attentively looked after in

the way of regulating the growths,
pegging them down, and stopping
the lateral shoots at the joint beyond
the embryo fruit, and preventing an
accumulation of superfluous growths.
Throughout the day they are allowed
to have plenty of air during the
summer, but it is all taken off at
night ; in the morning the sashes
are tilted up a little, and as the heat
of the day increases they are still
further opened.

Water is given in the morning
abundantly to those requiring it,
whilst those that are not dry have
simply a sprinkling overhead. It
is cold water from v the tap that is
entirely used, and doubtless that is
the greatest drawback to Cucumber
growing with which the market-
gardener has to contend, as where
one or several acres are covered with
frames, it would be almost an im-
possibility to make tepid all the
water that would be required. Large
hogsheads, however, are sunk here
and there about the frame-ground,
and brick or cement tanks are
frequently used for containing water,
with which they are filled for the
next day's use. Guano-water is
sometimes given during the summer-
time, being applied through a fine
rose overhead. This application is
not only useful as a stimulant, but
when given overhead has been found
to be of material benefit in destroy-
ing or preventing red spider, as well
as invigorating old plants. In refer-
ence to woodlice, toads are put in
the frames to destroy them. Cucum-
bers require sunny weather to set
well, and in dull wet seasons they do
not thrive well, especially in the
earlier part of the year. Should the
summer be hot and bright, the sashes
are shaded a little, and this is done by
strewing some rank litter over the
glass ; but many market-gardeners,
by way of economy of labour, paint

272

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the sashes with whiting. By August
the plants axe getting exhausted ;
therefore careful attention is paid to
thinning out old and bare vines, and
encouraging young wood by means
of stimulants, in the way of manure-
water and coverings from cold ; and
in this way they last till September.
No fruits are saved for seed until
August, for if left sooner they would
materially weaken the crop of market-
able fruit. Until August, Cucumbers
are liable to red spider, thrips, green
fly, mildew, canker, and various
other diseases ; the only remedy
being that of keeping the plants in
as vigorous growth as possible.
When mildew attacks the Cucumber
it is generally the result of insuffi-
cient ventilation and too low a
temperature, When it does appear,
dusting' thinly but evenly with flour
of sulphur through a piece of muslin
cloth is the only cure. Thrips are the
most terrible of the insect enemies
which attack the Cucumber; for
these, and also for green fly, which
is sometimes troublesome on the
young growths, fumigating with
Tobacco is usually resorted to ; but
the foliage of the Cucumber is so
tender, especially when forced, that
fumigation, unless done very care-
fully, is a cure which is often worse
than the disease, and should never
be attempted by the inexperienced.
CUCUMBERS IN THE OPEN AIR. —
Market-gardeners in the neighbour-
hood of London grow but few
Cucumbers in the open air. Many
have attempted it, but most of them
have now abandoned it, the result
not having proved very satisfactory.
Where, however, it is carried on,
they are grown under glass and
hardened off and planted out 6 ft.
asunder and 10 ft. row from row,
and hand-glasses are put over them.
When they begin to grow, the ground
is well mulched with straw, to keep

the earth moist and the fruit clean.
Due attention is paid to their after-
culture in the way of stopping,
thinning, etc., and in some cases
fairly good results are obtained. In
one or two counties, the soil and
climate of which seem unusually
well adapted to their growth, large
quantities are grown in the open air
for the London markets ; from such
sources there are said to be sent to
London not less than 600 tons a
week during what is termed the Cu-
cumber season. Of these upwards of
100 tons have been known to be sent
to Covent Garden in a single day.
In good Cucumber-growing localities
the seed is sown about the beginning
of May, where the plants are in-
tended to grow, in r"ows some 4 ft.
apart, and the plants stand nearly 2
ft. asunder in the row. In favourable
seasons they soon push into active
growth and cover the ground with
vines, which during the latter end of
May, the whole of June, and begin-
ning of July, spread in all directions
and come into bearing. During their
growth, weeding and thinning their
superfluous shoots are well attended
to, and if the plants should not en-
tirely cover the ground, or wherever
blanks occur, Mangold-Wurzel is
planted in the vacant spaces. About
4 yards apart are also rows of Onions,
set early in the spring, which, being
allowed to run to seed, serve in some
measure both for shade and shelter.
Where Onions are not used for this
purpose, Rye, sown in the autumn,
4 or 5 yards apart, and cut as soon
as the vines cover the ground, is
employed instead : Peas are also
sometimes used for the same purpose.
In this way the ground is made to
produce two or three kinds of crops
at the same time, and if one should
happen to fail, one or more of the
others, as the case may be, takes its
place. By the middle of July or

CUCUMBER

273

earlier, according to the season, the
crop is ready for a first gathering,
and from that time to the end of
September fruit varying in length
from 10 to 12 in., green and solid,
though sometimes unshapely, is
continually being cut.

GHERKINS. — These are extensively
cultivated in London market-gardens,
some growers frequently gathering
from 18,000 to 20,000 fruit in one
day. The seed is sown in May in
rows, where the plants are to remain,
in well-manured land. The rows
are usually about 9 ft. apart, and the
plants, which are thinned out when
sufficiently advanced to admit of the
strongest being discerned and left,
allowed to stand 6 ft. apart in the
rows. The after-treatment is exactly
the same as that practised in the case
of outdoor Cucumbers, except that
the shoots of the Gherkins are allowed
to grow unpinched. The fruit is
gathered when about the size of a
man's finger, placed in bushel baskets,
and sent direct to the pickle manu-
facturers. A good place for Gherkins,

and one often devoted to them, is the
alleys between the rows of spring-
sown Cabbages or Radish beds. The
alleys are dug over, the drills for the
seeds opened in the morning, and the
seeds are sown in the afternoon when
the ground is warm. When the
Radishes or other crops are cleared
off the intervening beds, the latter
are dug, and a line of Cauliflowers or
French Beans is planted along the
centre of them, or sometimes two 01
three lines of Lettuces are put in.
Some sow the Gherkins on an open
quarter in patches of three or four
seeds together, in rows about 5 or
6 ft apart, and 3 or 4 ft. asunder in
the row. Hand-glasses are then
placed over the seeds, and when the
young plants have come above
ground, abundant ventilation is
given until they show flower, when
they are fully exposed. In most
cases, however, they are raised in
frames and transferred to the open
ground in June, and in this way
they fruit earlier and usually give
less trouble and better results.

USES. — Cucumbers are eaten raw, boiled, or pickled. They are
very good as a vegetable in the hands of a good cook, but are not
often enough treated in this
way in England.

The varieties of Cucumbers
are extremely numerous, and
the designed or accidental
crossings of different varieties
are still producing new ones.
We shall confine ourselves to
the description of the kinds
which are most distinct and
most valuable for cultivation.

Early Russian Gherkin.—
A truly miniature Cucumber,
with a slender stem 20 in. to
2 ft. long, and small, bright
green leaves. It is perfectly

Early Russian Gherkin (£ natural size;
detached fruit, i natural size).

well adapted for frame culture,

each plant producing from six to eight fruit, which are short,

18

274

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

egg - shaped, yellow,
smooth, and a little
larger than a hen's egg.
This variety, which is the
earliest of all, ripens fully
in less than three months,
and does not require
any pinching or stopping.
The flesh of the fruit is
not very thick, and is
slightly bitter, but its re-
markable earliness makes
some amends for these
trifling defects. In Russia
there are many varieties
of it, the earliest of which,

Brown Netted, or Khiva, Cucumber (£ natural size), generally producing but

one fruit to each plant,
is said to complete its entire growth in ten or eleven weeks.

Brown Netted, or Khiva, Cucumber.— As the very early
small-fruited Cucumbers
grow better in Russia
than any other kind, a
great many distinct forms
of them are cultivated in
that country. They are
not all so well known in
France. We shall, how-
ever, notice, next to the
preceding variety, which
is remarkable for its ex-
treme earliness, another
kind, which, although
coming very near it in
some respects, is strikingly
distinct from it in the
colour and appearance of
the skin of the fruit.
When ripening, the fruit
of this variety does not
take on the yellow tint
common to a great
number of other varieties
of Cucumbers, but its
skin turns brown, inter-
sected by numerous lines Long Turkish Cucumber.

CUCUMBER

275

Early White Cucumber.

of a paler hue which

cross one another,

giving it the appear-
ance of being cracked.

The fruit is something

larger, and the plant

stronger, than in the

preceding variety, but

not quite so early.
Long Turkish

Cucumber. — A very

vigorous grower, with

leaves of a dark green

colour until the fruit

has ripened. The fruit

is long, slightly curved,

and measures 12 to

15 in. in length and between 2 and 3 in. in diameter. It is

light green when young and turns to dark yellow as it ripens

and then to brown. When ripe, the skin is marked with tiny

white lines, resembling
that of the Russian
Brown Netted Cucumber.
It is a very productive
variety, a plant yielding
generally five or six
beautiful fruit.

Early White Cucum-
ber. — A variety with
elongated, almost cylin-
drical fruit, nearly three
times as long as broad,
at first pale green, but
turning, as they ripen, to
a porcelain-white. The
fruit ripens early, but
considerably later than
that of the Early Russian
Gherkin.

White Parisian Long
Ridge Cucumber. — This
splendid variety produces
smooth fruit, of regular
cylindrical shape, as much
as 20 in. in length by 3^
Parisian Long Ridge Cucumber. to 4 in. in diameter, all

276

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Bonneuil Large White Cucumber.

white from first to last, with dark green, vigorous, and abundant
leaves. The plant can produce four to five Cucumbers if grown

in substantial soil. Al-
though not a hothouse
variety, in France it
succeeds much better and
produces finer fruit grown
in that way. In beauty
of fruit it excels all the
other White Cucumbers.
Bonneuil Large
White Cucumber.— This
Cucumber, which is almost
always grown in the open
ground, is quite distinct
from all other varieties.
The fruit instead of being
cylindrical, is ovoid in
shape, swollen about the
middle, and, moreover,
very perceptibly flattened
from end to end in three
or four places, producing

the same number of more or less rounded angles. It is very large,

not unfrequently attaining the weight of four and a half pounds.

It is at first of a pale green colour, and gradually becomes white

as it increases in size. This is the Cucumber which is most

generally grown about Paris for the perfumers, who use large

quantities of it in their

manufactures.

Early Yellow Dutch

Cucumber. — Plant usually

branching, with rather

slender stems. Leaves of

a light green colour, and

with well-marked angles ;

fruit longer and later than

that of the Early Russian

variety, but still well

adapted for forcing. At

first yellow - green, it

becomes slightly orange- Early Yellow Dutch Cucumber ( i natural size).

yellow when quite ripe.

There are usually only two or three fruit on each plant.

Half-long Green Cucumber. — A vigorous half-early plant

with light green stem and large leaves. The fruit is rather spiny ;

CUCUMBER

277

green striped with yellow when young or yellow at maturity,
when it measures about 9 in. long and 2j in. in diameter. It is
much grown, and very productive.

Long Green Cucumber. — A rather large and vigorous-
growing plant. Fruit slender and narrowed like that of the Early
Yellow Dutch variety, but still longer and more pointed at both
ends, and covered with very
numerous and prominent spiny
excrescences. It remains dark
green in colour until ripe, when
it turns a brown-yellow. The
flesh of this variety is thick,
firm, and crisp, on which

Fournier Long Green Cucumber.

Green Giant Ridge Cucumber.

account it is highly valued for use in salads before it is ripe,
generally when only half or three-quarters grown.

Fournier Cucumber.— An early Cucumber with slender stem
and pointed leaves. The fruit measures an average 1 6 in. in length
and between 3 and 4 in. in diameter at the lower end, which is
thicker than the end near the stalk. The colour is a vivid green.
The fruit is spiny when young, and when ripe is quite smooth.
It is vigorous, early, and productive, and well suited for the
open culture, though better grown on a hot-bed. It keeps its

¥78

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

colour and crispness long. The flesh is thick, and the seed space
not large.

Green Giant Ridge Cucumber.— A fine and very productive
variety, which may in favourable conditions be grown in the open,
though in the climate of Paris it succeeds better in hot-beds. This,
we may add, is the case with all Cucumbers, except the Gherkins.
The leaves are fairly large and strong, and the fruit more than
in. in length. Green when young, they gradually become

yellow as they get ripe.
The skin is rough with
only a few spines and
generally straight and
well-shaped. It may
be recommended for
the kitchen-garden
and also for market-
gardens.

Long Green Stour-
bridge Cucumber.— A
productive and vigorous
grower, with leaves
large and pointed ; fruit
almost spineless, in
colour a vivid green,
turning to pale yellow
towards maturity. It
is cylindrical in shape,
blunted at both ends,
and measures 13 to
15 in. in length and
I J to 2\ in. in diameter.
Grown in hot-beds, it
yields an early and
abundant crop of re-
markably fine fruit.

Green Parisian
Long Ridge Cucum-
ber.— A vigorous plant,
the leaves of which are pointed at first, and rounded later
on. The fruit is long, cylindrical, measuring 15^ in. in length,
2 to 3 in. in diameter, weighing often as much as four to six
pounds and more, of an intense green colour up to full size, when
it turns to a greenish yellow and afterwards to a pure yellow.
The flesh is white, firm, and crisp. Given the right conditions,
it may be grown out-of-doors, but succeeds much better raised
in hot-beds.

Green Parisian Long Ridge Cucumber.

CUCUMBER

279

Long Prickly Cucumber.— In England the Cucumber is very
extensively cultivated, usually in houses specially constructed for
the purpose, and with very great care and attention. Under
these circumstances, the various kinds could not fail to become
greatly improved in the size and appearance of the fruit, earliness
and hardiness being considered
only secondary qualities. This
is precisely the result, and there
are now in England many
varieties of the Long Prickly
Cucumber which have long,
almost cylindrical fruit, and but
few spines, with very solid flesh,
and producing remarkably few

Long English Prickly Cucumber.

Rollisson's Telegraph Cucumber.

seeds. We shall only mention the most noteworthy of these
numerous varieties.

Rollisson's Telegraph Cucumber.— Slightly longer than the
preceding, it takes more kindly to hot-bed culture. It is extremely
productive, each plant being able to carry as many as six to
eight fruit, especially if cut in succession before they reach full
size. Length between 15 and 24 in. The skin is smooth and
glossy ; the flesh white, firm, and crisp. The stalk end is narrow,

280 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

and mostly curved. The fruit is finer and better in appearance
if care is taken to straighten it betimes before it can take an
objectionable form.

Duke of Bedford Cucumber. — A splendid Cucumber. The
fruit is very long, straight, and smooth, with a very few spiny
warts. Should be grown in a hothouse, or at any rate in a heated
glass-pit In ordinary glass-frames with only the mild temperature
of fermenting manure, it is almost impossible to obtain fruit of fine
size and appearance, but when grown in the conditions prescribed,
the fruit attains to a length and perfection unequalled by any other
variety.

The following varieties, likewise derived from the Long Prickly
Cucumber, may also be mentioned : —

Blue Gown Cucumber. — Fruit very long, frequently over 2 ft.,
cylindrical, covered with a glaucous bloom. Spines few, white,
with black points. A very handsome variety.

Cardiff Castle Cucumber. — A vigorous plant, half-early, sets
regularly ; good cropper. Fruit long and smooth.

Hamilton's Market Favourite Cucumber. — Fruit 12 to 15 in.,
long, thin, slightly ribbed, light-coloured spines with black points.

Marquis of Lome Cucumber. —Fine and long fruit, narrowed
at the end ; spines few and white.

Tender and True Cucumber. — Fruit about 15^ in. long,
cylindrical , spines scarce and light coloured with black points.

The following varieties, which also produce long, handsome
fruit, are also much grown in England : — Long Gun, Duke of
Edinburgh, Manchester Prize, Dr. Livingstone, Jarmans Improved
Telegraph, Stourbridge Gem, Suttoris Peerless, Lord Roberts^
Triumph. These varieties, to succeed well, require to be grown
in hot-houses or on beds heated by hot-water pipes.

Ridge Cucumbers. — The following varieties, although growing
better in artificial heat, can be grown in the open ground, and
hence are called Ridge Cucumbers :—

Bedfordshire Ridge Cucumber. — A handsome, productive, and
early kind, resembling Pike's Defiance, but with rather shorter fruit.

Gladiator Cucumber. — Fruit about I ft. long, nearly cylindrical,
straight, gradually narrowed at the stalk end and more abruptly so
at the other. Flesh white, firm, and solid.

King of Ridge Cucumber. — A fine variety, long, straight, rough-
skinned, resembling the Green Giant Cucumber.

Pike's Defiance Cucumber. — The fruit of this variety differs
from that of the Gladiator Cucumber in being lighter in colour. It
is also rather earlier, hardier, and remarkably productive. It is one
of the best kinds for growing in the open ground.

Of the open-air varieties which are., not of English origin, we
may mention the following : —

CUCUMBER

281

Goliath Green Cucumber. — This seems to be only a variety ot
the Green Giant Cucumber, from which it differs in being a little
later and having the fruit a trifle longer.

Tuscan Solid Green Cucumber. — Fruit handsome and long
smooth, nearly cylindrical, becoming of a bronzy colour as it ripens.

Extra Long White-spine Cucumber.— An American variety,
with long, green, white-spined fruit, rather like the Long Green
Chinese Cucumber.

Greek, or Athenian, Cucumber. — A vigorous-growing plant;
but of low thick-set habit, rather than very tall. Stems stout, and
not more than 4^ to a little over 5 ft. long, with the joints pretty
close to one another. Leaves dark green, large, entire, or with
three faintly marked lobes,
toothed at the edges, de-
creasing rapidly in size from
the base to the end of the
stem. Fruit always solitary
in the axil of a leaf, three
or four to a strong plant,
nearly cylindrical, 10 to 12 in.
long, sometimes narrowed
near the stalk ; skin smooth,
and entirely devoid of spines,
uniformly green until nearly
ripe, when it turns to bronzy
yellow ; flesh white, firm,
thick, completely filling the
fruit, with the exception of
a small portion occupied by
the seeds. If gathered a short
time before ripening, the fruit
keeps fresh and firm for

several days. The Greek Greek, or Athenian, Cucumber (i natural size).

Cucumber is an excellent, productive, and moderately early kind.
It is also hardy and well adapted for growing in the open
ground.

Green Long Chinese Cucumber. — Leaves usually entire, but
sometimes with three to five well-marked lobes. Fruit slightly
flattened on three sides, 10 to 14 in. long, of a rather pale green
colour, marked lengthways with whitish lines and bearing a few
spines, which are entirely white, short, and easily detached from the
skin. The colour of the fruit becomes paler as it ripens, until it is
finally of a yellow-white with scarcely a shade of green. The flesh
is very white, tender, and almost as thick as that of the Long White
or of the Early White Cucumber. The plant is very productive,
bearing for a long time in succession. It is a half-late variety.

282

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Extra Long White-spine Cucumber.— Fruit dark green, long,
cylinder-shaped, with white spines ; the flesh tender and very white.

A vigorous and productive
variety.

Arlington, or Im-
proved White-spine,
Cucumber. — Cultivated
in the United States. Is
a sub-variety of the last-
named, the fruit being
much shorter, dark green,
and more pointed at the
ends. Adapts itself as
well to forcing as to
outdoor culture

Gherkin, or Pickling,
Cucumber. — A vigorous,
free-flowering, and pro-
ductive plant, with stems
from 5 to over 6 ft. long.
Fruit oblong in shape,
and intermediate between
the Early Russian and

Green Long Chinese Cucumber"* natural size). the. Early Yellow Dutch

varieties. They are almost

always gathered scon after the plant flowers, when they are about
as thick as the finger, and they are used almost exclusively for
pickling. There are two
distinct kinds of Gher-
kin, viz. the Southern
variety (Cornichon Court
du Midi), which is more
properly a small yellow
Cucumber, very produc-
tive, and of rapid growth,
and the Small Green
Paris variety, a more
thick-set and more pro-
ductive plant, with smaller
fruit.

The Early Frame, or
Early Short Pickling,
Cucumber, cultivated in
the United States, is a
handsome, short, early, hardy, and a much less leafing variety
than the Southern kinds.

Gherkin, or Pickling, Cucumber (natural size
of young fruit).

CUCUMBER

283

The Early Cluster
Pickling Cucumber, also
an American variety, re-
sembles the Green Paris
Cucumber, excepting that
its colour is dark green.
The fruit is also some-
what longer, growing in
bunches of two and three.
It is a productive variety.

Green Meaux Gher-
kin.— Distinct from the
ordinary Gherkin, the
fruit being almost twice
as long, nearly cylindrical
in shape, and in colour
a beautiful green, with
an absence of spiny ex-
crescences for a third of
its length. Vigorous and
hardy, it succeeds in open
culture. It is more rapid in growth

Improved Bourbonne Cucumber.

Green Meaux Pickling Cucumber.

than the ordinary Gherkin,
and very productive.

Improved Bour-
bonne Cucumber. — A
true Cucumber, produc-
ing long, thin, crisp fruit,
which, if gathered soon
after they have set, make
unusually fine Gherkins.
The spines are more
numerous and smaller
than in other varieties,
and resemble short, stout
hairs. It is quite dis-
tinct from the Meaux
Cucumber, being thinner,
longer, and a more
intense green. It is
specially suited for the
production of Cornichons
or Gherkins, on account
of its abundant and long-
continued yield, provided
the fruit is gathered
about as soon as formed.

284 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The engraving shows the length and shape of the fruit when
ready for pickling.

Toulouse Gherkin. — A vigorous plant, with rounded light
green leaves. When fully grown the fruit is thick, egg-
shaped, and yellow, measuring 7 or 8 in. in length and about 3^ in.
in diameter. The half-grown fruit, as used for pickling, is thick,
short, and spiny, with triangular section. This kind is much grown
in the south-west of France. It is fairly early and very productive.

Early White-spine Pickling Cucumber. — A very hardy and
vigorous and also very productive variety, each plant carrying
eight or ten fruit if they are allowed to ripen, and many more if
gathered young. When young they are green, short, and stout ;
as they grow they become paler and marked with four or five white
longitudinal lines ; when quite ripe they are almost white. Of
recent introduction from America, it is particularly recommended
for market-garden culture.

Boston Pickling, or Green Prolific, Gherkin. — An American
smooth-fruited variety. It is short, bright green, and comes
between the Russian and the Paris Gherkin, but is more like the
Russian. In America it is much used for pickling.

The Chinese Gherkin is a pretty and vigorous variety, low-
growing, and not trailing much ; the fruit longer and more
cylindrical than the European varieties.

SNAKE CUCUMBER
Cucumis Melo, L. var. ; Cucumis flexuosus, L. Cucurbi

French, Concombre serpent. German, GrUne lange gekriimmte Schlangen-Gurke,
Schlangen-Melone. Italian, Anguria.

Native of the East Indies. — Annual. — Stem creeping, slender,
round or bluntly angular, and covered with short hairs ; leaves

rounded, almost kidney-shaped, or
with five obtuse angles ; flowers
monoecious, pale yellow, small, with
five rounded divisions, exactly resem-
bling the flowers of a Melon and
quite unlike those of a Cucumber ;
fruit very long and slender, almost
always bent and twisted, dark green,
Snake Cucumber (& natural size), marked with paler longitudinal furrows,

and thickest at the end farthest from

the stalk. They are about 3 ft. and sometimes more in length,
and change to a yellow colour when ripe, at which time they
exhale a strong odour of Melons. The seed is like that of the
Melon. Its germinating power lasts for seven or eight years.
This species, notwithstanding its common name, is a true Melon.

SNAKE CUCUMBER

285

Individual plants of it are found bearing at the same time fruit
seme of which are long and snake-like, while others are broad
and oval in shape. Sometimes even the same fruit will be thin
and snake-like near the stalk, and swollen at the other end into
the semblance of a Melon. The culture is almost like that of
the Melon. The plant does not grow well in the open air in the
climate of Paris. The Snake Cucumber is chiefly grown as a
curiosity, but it may be used for pickling, like the Gherkin.

PRICKLY, or WEST INDIAN, GHERKIN

Cucumis Anguria, L. Cucurbitacecz. Concombre des Antilles

Native of Jamaica. — Annual. — A creeping and very branching
plant. Stem slender, covered with rough hairs, from 6 to nearly
10 ft. long, and furnished with simple tendrils. Leaf-stalks as long
as the blade of the leaf, which is
divided into five or seven rounded,
slightly toothed lobes. Male
flowers yellow, very small, less
than \ in. in diameter, numerous,
on short slender stalks ; female
flowers long-stalked. Fruit oval,
green, with white longitudinal
streaks, turning pale yellow when
ripe, covered all over with fleshy
protuberances, which are pointed
or curved like true spines or
prickles. When ripe it is about
2 in. long, and over i in. in
diameter. The stalk is nearly twice as long as the fruit The
interior of the fruit is almost entirely filled with the seeds. The
flesh is very scanty, but white, firm, and of a very agreeable flavour,
without any bitterness. Seeds small, oval, and rather swollen ; their
germinating power lasts for at least six years. In the Colonies the
fruit is eaten boiled or pickled.

West Indian Gherkins.

GLOBE CUCUMBER

Cucumis prophetarum, L. Cucurbitacea. Concombre des prophetes.

Native of Northern and Central Africa. — Probably perennial,
but annual in France. — A plant with a rather short creeping or
climbing stem, which seldom exceeds from about 3 to 5 ft. in
length, and is very rough and a gray colour. Leaves also gray,
oval, and divided into five round lobes. Fruit oblong in shape,
about 2 in. long and about if in. in diameter, marked with

286 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

alternate bands of yellow and dark green, and covered all over
with stout and almost spiny hairs ; the flesh is scanty, and too
bitter for eating. Seeds small, flat, oval, but terminating in a point
at each end, and with a smooth, almost white skin. Their
germinating power lasts for over six years.

With this species is sometimes confounded the Gooseberry
Cucumber (Cucumis myriocarpus, Ndn.) — a plant with long stems
and very green leaves, which produces an abundance of very
small fruit covered with stout green hairs, and exactly resembling
Gooseberries in shape and size.

CUMIN or CUMMIN
Cuminum Cyminum, L. Umbellifercz.

French, Cumin de Malte. German, Pfeffer-Kiimmel. Dutch, Komijn. Italian,
Comino di Malta-; Spanish, Comino.

Native of Upper Egypt — Annual. — A very low-growing plantr
seldom more than 4 to 6 in. high, and branching from the base.
Leaves reduced to mere linear blades ; flowers small, lilac, borne
in terminal umbels of from ten to twenty flowers on the extremities
of very divergent branches ; seed large, elongated, concave on one
side and convex on the other, with six rather prominent ribs on
the convex side, and bearing long hairs, which fold up when the
seed is ripe. The seeds have a hot taste and a strong aromatic
flavour. Their germinating power lasts fairly well for three years,
but declines visibly after the second year.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in the open ground as soon as it
has become warm enough, that is, in the beginning or middle of
May. The plants grow rapidly, and the seed commences to ripen
at the end of July. No attention is necessary, except the occasional
use of the hoe. The seeds are used for flavouring soups and
pastry, and also in the manufacture of some kinds of liqueurs.

•

DANDELION

Leontodon Taraxacum, L. Composite.

French, Pissenlit, Dent-de-lion. German, Lowenzahn. Flemish, Molsalaad. Italian*

Dente di leone.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves all radical, spreading
into a rosette, smooth, oblong, runcinate, with triangular-lanceolate
lobes, and entire towards the extremity ; youngest leaves often
brownish at the commencement of their growth. Flower-stalks
hollow, one-flowered ; flower-heads large with florets of golden-
yellow. Seeds compressed, oblong, rough or scaly, and prickly at
the top ; their germinating power lasts for two years.

DANDELION

287

Thick-leaved, or Cabbaging, Dandelion
(£ natural size).

People contented themselves with gathering Dandelions in the
meadows or fields until, as they became an important article of
commerce in the Central Market of Paris, it occurred to some that
it could be cultivated and
improved by the selection
of seed from choice plants.
Thus the plant was im-
proved to a remarkable
degree, as may easily be
seen by comparing the
produce of seeds gathered
from the wild plant with
that of seeds obtained from
the cultivated plants.

CULTURE.— The seed
may be sown in March
or April, either where the
plants are to stand, or in
a seed-bed, from which the seedlings are to be pricked out, in
May or June, in rows, which should be 14 to 16 in. apart. The
plants are extremely hardy, and require no attention beyond
occasional hoeings and waterings. In autumn they commence
to yield, and will continue to do so all through the winter, if

they are looked after. The
quality of the Dandelion
is much improved by
blanching, which may be
effected either by covering
the bed with a layer of
sand, or by placing an
inverted flower-pot over
each plant, having pre-
viously gathered the leaves
up together. The pot
should be - large enough
to cover the plant without
pressing the leaves too
closelyagainst one another.
In winter the plants lose
most of their leaves, but
an abundant new growth

Improved Very Early Dandelion. takes Place in Spring, and

any plants which have not

yielded much the first yeardoso plentifully in thespring of the second.
USES.— The whole of the plant is used for salad ; if blanched,
so much the better.

288

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Improved Giant Erect Dandelion.

Large Green Montmagny Dandelion. — This, now largely

grown in the vicinity of Paris, is a more vigorous form of the

Common Dandelion. It
blanches well.

Thick-leaved, or
Cabbaging, Dandelion. —
A very distinct variety,
obtained by cultivation, and
surpassing the wild plant
not so much in the size as
in the very great number
of its leaves, which form a
regular tuft or clump, instead
of a plain rosette. It yields
a very abundant crop with-
out taking up much ground,
and blanches very easily
and, indeed, almost naturally.
It appears to us to be the
best variety that has been
obtained up to the present.
Improved Very Early Dandelion. — Increasing the breadth

of the leaves of Dandelions has resulted in fewer leaves being

produced. The variety

known as the Improved

Broad-leaved Dandelion,

forms a simple rosette of

very large and broad

leaves, sometimes 20 in.

across. Its productiveness

not being in proportion

to the amount of space

it occupies, it has been

almost completely super-
seded by a sub-variety

called the Improved Very

Early Dandelion, in which

less productiveness is com-
pensated for by greater

earliness. Its leaves are

large, and are formed as

soon as the winter is over.

They make a very delicate

salad.

Improved Giant Erect Dandelion. — A distinct variety which,

instead of forming into a rosette, like other Dandelions, grows

Moss-leaved Dandelion.

DANDELION 289

in erect, strong, thickly set tufts. The leaves are long, stout,
toothed, and slightly brown. It is very early, vigorous, and more
prolific than most of the other Dandelions.

Moss-leaved Dandelion. — A distinct variety of Curled-leaved
Dandelion, much denser and more compact than the Common
kind, and apparently permanent in its characteristics. The blade
of the leaf is divided and, as it were, slashed into narrow strips.
The plant can be easily blanched, and in that condition affords
a salad not unlike Curled Endive, but coming in in spring, when
it is very difficult to have any Endive fit for table use.

DILL

Anethum graveolens, L. Umbellifercz.

French, Aneth. German, Dill. Flemish, Dille. Danish, Dild. Italian, Aneto.

Spanish, Eneldo.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — A plant 2 to over 2\ ft.
high. Leaves very much cut into thread-like segments ; stem
glaucous green, hollow, very smooth, and branching ; flowers
yellowish, with very small petals which are rolled inwards, borne
in compound umbels without bracts ; seeds very flat, and having
a strong and bitter flavour; their germinating power lasts for
three years. The plant, in its general appearance, very much
resembles the Common Fennel, and all its green parts have a
flavour like that of Fennel and Mint combined. Sown in April,
where the plants are to stand, it succeeds well in the open air, in
any kind of well-drained soil, especially in a warm position. The
seeds are used as a condiment, or for pickling with Gherkins. In
the north of France they are often employed for flavouring winter
preserves.

EGG-PLANT

Solanum Melongena, L. Solanacece.

French, Aubergine. German, Eierpflanze. Flemish, Eierplant. Italian, Petronciano.
Spanish, Berengena. Portuguese, Beringella.

Native of India. — Annual. — Stem erect, branching ; leaves
entire, oblong, of a gray-green colour, more or less powdery, and
often spiny on the veins. Flowers solitary in the axil's of the
branches, shortly stalked ; corolla monopetalous, and of a dull
violet colour ; calyx often spiny, increasing in size with the fruit.
Seeds small, flattish, kidney-shaped, and yellow ; their germinating
power lasts for six or seven years.

CULTURE. — In the climate of Paris the Egg-plant can seldom
be grown without the aid of artificial heat. The seed is usually
sown on a hot-bed in February or March, and the seedlings are

19

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

pricked out into another hot-bed six weeks or two months later.
Early varieties raised in hot-beds may also be planted out in the
open air about the end of May, when the ground has become well
warmed. The plants require a warm and sheltered position, and
plentiful waterings. In order to obtain handsome, well-grown fruit,
a certain number only should be allowed to remain on each plant,
proportioned to its strength. It is a good plan also to pinch the
extremities of the branches towards the end of the summer. In
England we have never seen this plant well grown even under
glass. In the Eastern States of North America we were surprised
at the fine health it attained in the fields, and the great size of the

fruit — as large as well-grown
Melons.

USES.— The fruit is usually
cooked. The different varie-
ties are highly esteemed for
table use in the countries of
the south of Europe and
South America.

Long Purple Egg-plant
— Stem greenish, or faintly
tinged with brown. Leaves
oval, entire, slightly sinuate-
lobed, and bearing a few
purple-coloured spines on the
veins of the upper surface ;
youngest leaves purple at the
base, the others entirely green.
Flowers lilac, large, axillary,
with a brown calyx, which
increases very much in size
after the flower fades, so that
it is three or four times larger when the fruit is ripe than it was
when the flower opened. Fruit oblong-oval, slightly club-shaped,
thickest at the end farthest from the stalk, very smooth and
glistening, and almost black-purple in colour ; flesh firm and
compact, with few seeds, and best in quality before the fruit is
fully grown. When quite ripe, the fruit is from 6 to 8 in. long
and 2 to 3 in. in diameter. A well-grown plant may carry from
eight to ten fruit. This is the best variety for table use in all
countries where the summer is long and warm, as it requires five
or six months' growth to ripen the fruit. It is therefore especially
suitable for the south of Europe, but for the climate of Paris the
following kind is to be preferred.

Early Long Purple Egg-plant.— A sub-variety of the pre-
ceding kind, in comparison with which it is not quite so strong-

Long Purple Egg-plant (£ natural size).

EGG-PLANT

291

growing nor so large, being of more slender habit. Stem almost

black ; leaves oval, entire, with hardly any spines, and with the

stalk and veins very deeply

tinged with purple on the

upper surface. The general

tint of the leaves is grayer

than that of the leaves of

the preceding kind, and the

fruit is smaller and more

slender. This variety, on

account of its earliness, is

the most suitable for culture

in the climate of Paris.
Barbentane Very Early

Long Purple Egg-plant.

— Stem black ; leaves oval,

generally lobed, of a gray

dark green colour, with

black stalks ; veins much

tinged, specially on the

upper surface, and bearing

a few spines on the lower

side ; flowers large, purple,

with brown calyx. The

fruit measures 7 to 8 in.

in length, and about 2 in.

in diameter at the thickest part ; it is almost cylindrical and

slightly pointed, and very dark, almost black. Each plant bears

eight or ten fruit, which ripen well even in mild climates. It is

very early and is the most productive Egg-plant grown in the

climate of Paris.

Early Dwarf Purple
Egg-plant. — A very
early variety, and there-
fore very valuable for
our climate. Plant low-
growing and branching,
with a black stem and
dark violet-coloured
flowers. Leaves of a
slightly gray-green
colour, elongated, and
faintly waved at the
edges ; veins black on

Barbentane Very Early Egg-plant.

Early Dwarf Purple Egg-plant.

the upper surface ; leaf-stalk dark violet, as are also the divisions
of the calyx. Fruit ovoid, 3 or 4 in. long and about 2 in. in

292

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

diameter at the thick end, numerous, of a rather deep but dull
purple colour, and not glistening like those of the Long Purple
variety. They are fit to gather at least a month earlier than those
of any other kind, and each plant may be allowed to carry a dozen
or so. The dwarf habit of this plant renders it very suitable for
frame culture in early spring. This variety should be looked
after, as one of the most likely to suit our English climate, in
which the Egg-plant has not yet been successfully cultivated.

Round Purple Egg-plant (| natural size).

New- York Purple Egg-plant.

Round Purple Egg-plant— Stem brown, as are also the
leaf-stalks and the veins of the leaves. Leaves rather large, very
green, broad, and almost always sinuated at the edges ; veins purple
on the upper surface, and bearing a few spines ; stalks very spiny.
Fruit very large, and of a paler and duller purple colour than the
fruit of the preceding varieties. It is not quite round, but more
like a short Pear. The variety is later than the two preceding
kinds, and is especially suitable for southern climates. A plant of
it should not carry more than three or four fruit.

New- York Purple Egg-plant. — Stem stout, not very tall,
usually branching, and of a gray-green, slightly, or not at all, tinged

EGG-PLANT

293

with purple. Leaves entire, undulated at the edges, or faintly
lobed, and bearing short spines on the ribs on both sides. Flowers
pale lilac, rather large. Fruit very large, of a very short Pear-
shape, and slightly flattened at both ends ; it is paler in colour than
that of the Round Purple Egg-plant, but is larger and fuller and
entirely devoid of ribs or longitudinal furrows. The fruit-stalk,
and also the persistent calyx, usually remain green up to the time
of ripening. This variety is distinguished from those already
enumerated by its lower stature, its more compact and thick-set
habit, and especially by the quality of the flesh, which almost
entirely fills the interior of the fruit, leaving but very little space
for the seeds. A plant
seldom carries more than
two fruit. The Common
Giant Egg-plant is to be
referred to this variety,
which is steadily super-
seding it in cultivation.
There is a variety of this
with cream-white fruit
which is much appreci-
ated in the United States,
where it is known as the
Pearl-white Egg-plant.

Black Pekin Egg-
plant.— A strong-growing
plant, almost entirely of
a black-purple colour.
Fruit nearly or quite
spherical, 5 or 6 in. in
diameter, glistening, and

exhibiting this peculiarity
— that those parts of it
which are protected from
covered with the divisions

Black Pekin Egg-plant.

of the sun by

the action of the sun by being
of the calyx remain quite green.
This variety is not of much account for the climate of Paris,
as it is late, and the fruit has a very decided acridity in its
flavour.

Madras Egg-plant.— Its culture is exactly like that of the
other Egg-plants. Its chief use, however, is as an ornamental
plant. The fruit is numerous, oblong, pear-shaped, varying in
colour on the same plant between purple, yellow, green, and also
striped white and yellow. It is eaten as a vegetable in India, but
for table purposes it cannot be compared with the improved
varieties as known to us. Here it can only be useful for its
ornamental qualities.

294 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Chinese Brinjal, or White China Egg-plant. — A very distinct
variety, with long slender white fruit, which are almost always
curved. A late kind.

There are a great many other varieties of Egg-plant, which are
more or less closely allied to those just described. The most note-
worthy of these we shall briefly mention, as follows : —

Catalonian Egg-plant. — A late, spiny kind, resembling the
Round Purple variety.

Murcian Egg-plant — Fruit purple, round, marked with a few
ribs ; stem and leaves spiny ; the leaves are more lobed and the
veins are more deeply coloured than those of the Round Purple
variety.

Antilles Giant Egg-plant. — This is a strong-growing late kind,
without spines, and bearing fruit resembling that of the Round
Purple variety.

Green Egg-plant. — This does not appear to be a distinct and
fixed variety, as, amongst the White Egg-plants, fruit are frequently
met with which are more or less greenish or variegated with green.

Thibet Egg-plant — A late variety, with elongated fruit of a
greenish white colour. It was introduced about thirty years ago,
and seems to have gone almost out of cultivation.

WHITE EGG-PLANT

Solanum ovigerum, Dun.
French, Aubergine blanche. German, Weisse Eierpflanze.

A rather low-growing, branching plant. Stem and leaf-stalks
green, or very faintly tinged with purple, and bearing a few white

spines ; leaves wavy at the edges ;
flowers lilac ; fruit white, exactly
resembling a hen's egg, but turn-
ing yellow when ripe. Like the
Madras Egg-plant, its chief use
is for ornament. The fruit is
(probably erroneously) considered
by some to be unwholesome.
There is a form of it which has
larger fruit, and another of dwarfer
growth and with much smaller
fruit, which is known as the Dwarf
White Egg-plant.

All the forms are cultivated
White Egg-plant (£ natural size). 'n tne same way as the common

kinds. The fruit is not eaten,

but may be used as ornaments in baskets of mixed fruits at
dessert, etc.

ENDIVE 295

ENDIVE

Cichorium Endivia, L. Composites.

French, Chicoree Endive. German, Endivien. Flemish and Dutch, Andijvie. Danish,
Endivien. Italian, Indivia. Spanish and Portuguese, Endivia.

Native of the East Indies. — Annual and biennial. — A plant
with numerous radical leaves, smooth, lobed, more or less deeply
cut, and spreading into a rosette. Stem hollow, from 20 in. to
over 3 ft. high, channelled, and branching ; flowers blue, axillary,
sessile ; seeds small, angular, long, gray, ending in a point on one
side, and having a sort of membranous collar on the other. Their
germinating power lasts for ten years. All the varieties which
have sprung from Cichorium Endivia are distinguished by having
the leaves entirely smooth, both on the blade and on the stalk, and
by being of a more tender constitution and more sensitive to cold
than the cultivated varieties of Cichorium Intybus.

CULTURE. — As Endive is a plant of rapid growth, highly
esteemed for table use, it is grown all the year round. The
gardeners about Paris commence to sow it in the open ground in
April, and make successional sowings up to the end of August. In
September and October they sow under cloc/zes (or bell-glasses),
and from December to April in hot-beds. (As far as possible, no
plants are grown in the open ground except those which have been
sown there, as, if planted out from hot-beds, they are liable to run
to seed the same year.) The seedlings are pricked out as soon as
they are strong enough and have seven or eight leaves, at a distance
of from 10 to 1 6 in. from plant to plant, according to the variety,
and, from the time they strike root until they are fully grown,
should be frequently and plentifully watered. Endive grown in the
open ground may be gathered for use from August, and the plants
will continue to yield, if properly looked after, either where they
stand, or removed to a vegetable-house, up to the end of winter.
During the remainder of the year, the plants which are sent to
table are raised under bell-glasses or in hot-beds. Before they are
gathered, the plants are usually blanched. For this purpose they
are left until nearly full grown, when the leaves are all tied up
together, so as to protect the heart of the plant effectually from the
action of sunlight. The plants are allowed to stand where they
grow, and are watered when necessary, care being taken not to let
any water get into the hearts, or they will be liable to rot. Endive
treated in this way will be fit for use in about twenty days. Any
plants which are standing when frosty weather comes on will con-
tinue to grow if protected by a covering of leaves or straw mats,
which should be removed when the weather becomes mild. In
this way the yield of the different varieties, and especially of the
Batavian Endive, may be prolonged for several weeks. Late-

296

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

grown plants may be taken up with balls and removed to a
vegetable-house, where they can be blanched. For particulars of
the ways in which Endive is forced, we must refer to special
treatises on market gardening and early spring crops.

CULTURE IN BRITAIN. — Endive
requires much less heat than Let-
tuce, and is chiefly valuable as an
autumn and winter salad vegetable.
In many gardens, if sown before
August, it is almost certain to run
to seed prematurely, and conse-
quently it is unwise to depend upon
one, or even two sowings.

SOWING. — Make a small sowing
of the Moss-curled and Green Curled
about the middle of July, another of
the same varieties and Improved
Broad-leaved Batavian about the
first week in August, and a final
sowing of Green Curled and Batavian
at the middle of August. The Moss-
curled is close-growing and blanches
quickly, but is the least hardy, and
is not at all suitable for late work.
This variety requires less room than
the others, and may be sown in
drills 6 in. apart, and the plants
should eventually be thinned out to
the same distance asunder. The
other two are strong growers, and
the rows may well be 12 in. apart
and the plants 10 in. asunder in the
rows. The first sowing is made on
a small border previously used for
pricking out Cauliflowers and
Brussels Sprouts, and but few of
the seedlings are transplanted unless
it be to make up blanks. A long
border previously well enriched for
early Cauliflowers is given up to the
second sowing, being prepared by
simply having the surface lightly
coated over with lime and heavily
hoed. The drills are drawn and
watered, the seed sown thinly and
lightly covered. For the final sow-
ing a warmer or rather better drained
border is preferred — one previously
cropped with early Potatoes. Dig-

ging being unnecessary in the former
case, it is still less so when planting
or sowing ground after Potatoes,
but if the ground be at all poor,
fork in, but not deeply, a dressing
of short manure. Usually there is
great difficulty in preserving the
young plants from slugs, and not
unfrequently it is necessary to sow
seeds in a frame so as to have
sufficient plants to make up the
large blanks caused by these pests.
In some gardens where the soil is
light, and the drainage good, it is a
good plan to plant the Endive in
shallow drills, say, about 6 in. wide
and 3 in. deep. In such positions
they can be easily watered, and an
occasional supply of liquid manure
poured between them will cause
them to grow to a great size. These
drills also render blanching a simple
matter, all that is necessary being to
cover a few plants a few days before
they are wanted with either boards
or slates. In order to have Endive
in good condition over as long a
period as possible, extra pains must
be taken with the

BLANCHING AND PROTECTING. —
Unless properly blanched, Endives
are not appreciated, and unless some
measures are taken to ensure pro-
tection, they are liable to be much
injured, if not actually killed, by
frosts. All that is necessary in the
case of the early crops is to either
tie up a certain number at weekly
intervals, much as we would Brown
Cos Lettuces, or cover with boards,
or with rough litter or hay, and the
same methods of blanching may be
adopted with those protected. Under
hay the Endive blanches perfectly,
without being soiled or injured in

ENDIVE

297

any way. Only a given number,
according to the demand, should be
covered at a time, as the plants will
not keep long after being blanched.
Where portable garden frames are
abundant, any number of plants may
be covered with these, the lights
being put on and further protection
in the shape of mats and litter given
when necessary. It is when frames
are scarce that the grower has to
adopt various contrivances in order
to meet with the demand for salad-
ing. In some districts Endive does
not keep well if lifted and stored,
but in less moist neighbourhoods I
have kept great numbers closely
packed in frames. In this case the
plants were lifted before severe
frosts were anticipated, as if only
slightly injured early decay is certain
to follow. A dry day was selected,
the plants carefully tied up, lifted
up with a trowel so as to secure a
good ball of earth to the roots, and
they were then carried in hand-
barrows to the frame ground.
Frames previously used for Melon,
Cucumber, and Tomato culture
were filled rather closely with the
Endive, and into the good soil they
soon pushed fresh roots. The whole
of the plants were untied, and were
blanched with hay according as
required, the last to be covered
being the Batavian, this being the
best keeping sort. I do not care to
leave any quantity of Endive in the
open from want of frame room, and
have frequently stored some in a
Mushroom-house for early use, and
many more in a dry shed, these
proving serviceable in lengthening
the period before those better stored
under the frames, or covered where
grown, are cut. Whatever plan of
storing is adopted, care should
always be taken to lift before the
plants are injured and when as dry
as possible. The small or half-

grown plants of the hardiest sort
sometimes stand out uninjured
during the winter, especially if
planted on a dry or raised border,
and these sometimes prove of ser-
vice in maintaining the supply of
salading till such times as the frame
Lettuces are fit for use. — W. I.

Endive is largely grown in nearly
all market-gardens round London,
and especially in those situated in
moist districts. The first sowing is
usually made early in May, either in
frames or on prepared beds in the
open air. In either case, good rich
soil is used in which to sow the seed,
and the surface after sowing is made
firm by being beaten with the back
of the spade. The chief point in
reference to early-sown Endive is to
keep the plants continually growing,
as if they experience the least check
they run to seed or "bolt," as it is
termed. On this account early
Endive, as a rule, is not grown in
very large quantities. The principal
sowing is made early in June, and is
succeeded by smaller ones to the
end of July. In most cases the out-
door sowings are made on the ground
on which they are to grow, as on
Celery ridges or between the rows
of any crops where there is room,
and for which the ground was well
manured. Sometimes, however, the
seed is sown on beds, and the seed-
lings thinned out if too thick, and
transplanted when sufficiently large
to handle. In any case the distance
apart of permanent plants is from
12 to 15 in. Endive and Lettuces
are frequently planted on land
alternately, large fields being often
devoted to them ; sometimes whole
fields of Endive alone occur. Blanch-
ing is effected by tying up the leaves
like those of Lettuces with withies
or pieces of bast. In from twelve
to fifteen days after being tied up
Endive is ready for market. The

298

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

most forward piece is then cleared
by pulling the plants up by their
roots, and in this state they are
packed in hampers and conveyed to
market. The Dwarf Green Curled
and the Batavian are the kinds
chiefly grown, but the former sort
is that which is grown in the greatest
quantity. The produce from the

earliest sowings is ready for market
early in August and onwards until
Christmas, and even later. A few
growers house plants for winter and
spring supply, but now, when they
have to compete in the market with
the French, the prices obtained
scarcely remunerate them for their
trouble and house-room.

USES. — The leaves are eaten boiled or in salad. In England
we make no such good use of Endive as a boiled vegetable as the
French do. Many vegetables as we have, the distinct flavour of
certain varieties of Endive when cooked should make them as
welcome as table vegetables as they are in France.

Green Curled Summer Endive.— Under this name, two
very distinct varieties are very extensively cultivated, namely,

the Paris and the Anjou.
The Paris, or Italian,
variety is the older of
the two kinds. It has
its leaves arranged in a
dense rosette, full even
at the centre, and from
12 to 14 in. in diameter.
The leaves are very
much divided in the
upper half into slender
segments, which are not
much curled. The lower
half of the leaf is a rib
or stalk over I in. wide,
and a faint rosy colour,
especially at the base.

The Anjou variety
began to be very
generally cultivated about twenty years ago, and is superseding
the other variety, to which it is very much superior. It forms
a rosette nearly as broad as that of the Paris variety, but much
denser and more convex in shape. The leaves are very numerous,
and closely crowded together ; the leaf-stalk or rib is entirely
white at the base, J in. or more broad, and edged on the lower
half with white thread-like leafy segments. In the upper half
of the leaf the midrib widens perceptibly, is often more or less
contorted, takes a green tint, and is furnished with very finely
cut leafy appendages, which are only slightly curled, and are a
clear green colour, changing to a butter-yellow in the heart of

Green Curled Paris Endive.

ENDIVE

299

variety)

the plant. The extremities of the leaves become intertangled to

such an extent that one leaf cannot be distinguished from another,

and the whole plant almost resembles a great tuft of Moss.
These two kinds are

cultivated in the same way.

They are both suitable for

forcing and for open-air

culture, especially in summer

and early autumn, but later

on they are very liable

to rot.

Green Fine-curled

Winter Endive (Chicorte

frisee de Meaux). — This

variety forms a broader

rosette than the preceding

kind, but not so full. It is

usually from 16 to 18 in.

across. The leaves are

longer and their divisions

are more curled and crisped Green Curled

than in the summer variety.

The midrib, which is tinged with rose-colour on the lower part,

is often \ in. or more broad, the middle part being furnished

with very much divided, crisped, and curled leafy segments.

The terminal portion of the leaf is entire and almost flat, with

the margin notched and curled. This variety is not so early

as the preceding kinds, but it is more hardy, and is particularly

suitable for an autumn crop.

Golden-heart Curled Summer Endive. — A vigorous, hardy,

and productive kind, re-
sembling the Meaux En-
dive in size and general
features. Its centre is
very dense and full, and
turns to yellow, which
gives it the appearance
of having been artificially
blanched.

Picpus Curled En-
dive.—This kind is nearly

Green Fine-curled Winter Endive th am gize as the

(i natural size). T- i - ^ i

Meaux Endive, the

diameter of the rosette being from 14 to 16 in., but the leaves
are far more finely cut, and the heart of the rosette is fuller
and firmer. The two varieties differ remarkably in the formation

300

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Picpus Curled Endive (f natural size).

of the terminal part of
the leaf. In the Picpus
variety, this is very
narrow and almost re-
duced to a midrib ;
while in the other kind
it has some degree of
width. The midrib or
stalk of the Picpus also
is much narrower, is
without the rosy tinge,
and only furnished here
and there with leafy
appendages, which give
it a very peculiar ap-
pearance. The Picpus
is a very good and
hardy kind of Endive,

and is well adapted for open-air culture.

Green Curled Upright Endive (Chicorte Grosse Pancaliere). —
Resembles the Meaux Endive in shape and leaves, but it is
earlier, more erect, and so dense in the centre that the crowded
mass of foliage blanches
of itself. The midribs of
the leaves are tinged
with rose, by which it is
easily distinguished from
the Ruffec Endive, which
also forms compact tufts.
For its rapidity of growth
and productiveness it is
much grown for salads,
etc.

Rouen or Stag's
Horn Endive. — A hand-
some and very distinct
variety, forming a very
full rosette, 14 to 16 in.
in diameter. The leaves
are not so finely divided,
nor are the divisions so
much curled, as in the
preceding varieties ; they
are also of a duller and
grayer colour. The mid-
rib is thick, but very Green Curled Upright Endive.

ENDIVE

301

narrow, and entirely white. This is one of the kinds which are

most extensively cultivated at Paris, and through all the north

of France. It is particu-
larly well adapted for

open-air culture, and, being

hardy, yields a crop until

late in autumn.

Louviers Endive.—

This variety, which seems

to be derived from the

preceding kind, is very

distinct and good. The

plant forms a rosette,

which is not so broad as

the Stag's-horn variety,

but is fuller, more compact,

and more convex. The

leaves are paler in colour,

but the divisions are more Rouen> or Stag?s Horn> Endive (i natural size)

regular and narrower. The

heart of the rosette is remarkably dense, so that plants of this

variety, though occupying less space than those of the preceding

kind, yield quite as heavy a crop. In consequence of the

almost hemispherical form of the rosette, it contains a greater

number of blanched leaves, in proportion to its size, than any

other variety ; so that, bulk for bulk, it yields a larger amount

of useful produce.

After several trials, we
have not been able to detect
any difference between the
Louviers Endive and the
Guillande Endive, a variety
much in favour in Normandy.
Ruffec Green Curled
Endive. — Rosette very large,
often 1 6 to 18 in. in diameter,
at first sight slightly resem-
bling that of the MossTcurled
variety, but more tufty, and
fuller in the centre. The
midrib of the leaf is very
white and thick, very tender

Louviers Endive (i natural size). and fleshy, nearly an inch

broad, but looking much

broader on account of the blanching of a large portion of the
blade of the leaf the remainder of which is cut and curled

302

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

almost like the Moss-curled variety. The Rujjec is one of the
best kinds for open-air culture, and is equally suitable for

Ruffec Green Curled Endive (£ natural size).

summer and autumn. We do not know any other variety which
bears cold weather so well, and we have seen it in the open
ground, simply covered with leaves, surviving winters in which

all other kinds perished.
Imperial Curled
Endive. — A handsome
curled variety, forming
a broad, tall, and well-
furnished rosette, and
resembling the preceding
kind more than any
other variety, it differs
from it, however, in the
lighter colour of the
leaves, which are also
less finely cut, but have
the segments very much
curled and folded. This
variety is especially
noticeable in that its
leaves do not exhibit a
bare midrib at the
bottom, like those of
imperial Curled Endive. other varieties, but run

down to the very ground,

where they are from fin. to nearly ij in. broad. They are also
perfectly white for at least one-half their length.

ENDIVE

303

Moss-curled Endive (£ natural size).

Moss-curled Endive. — Rosette rather small, seldom exceeding

10 or 12 in. in diameter, and not often very compact. Leaves

rather dark green, very much

cut, curled, and crisped,

so that it is difficult to

distinguish one leaf from

another, and the whole plant

resembles a tuft of Moss.

The midribs of the leaves

are narrow and very white.

Not a very productive

variety, but sometimes in

request on account of its

peculiar appearance. As

it occupies but little space,

it can be grown under bell-
glasses. Another equally

dense thick-set variety is

sometimes met with under

the name of the Short

Bell-glass Endive. This appears to be intermediate between the

Moss-curled and the Small Green Curled Summer Endive,

coming nearer, however, to the latter.

White Moss-curled Endive. — Very distinct, not exceeding

12 or 13 in. in diameter ; with broad ribs, slightly tinged with

rose, and leaves finely cut
and curled, and light green,
except at the heart, which
is white with a golden
tinge. Not very produc-
tive, but a handsome plant
and of excellent flavour.

Ever-white Curled
Endive. — Rosette not very
dense nor well furnished,
14 to 16 in. in diameter ;
midrib of the leaf yellow,
and tinged with rose ;
leaves very pale in hue,
having the appearance of
being artificially blanched.
__ This peculiar colour is the

White Moss-curled Endive. C^ief distinction of the

plant, as it is neither very

productive nor of particularly good quality ; yet it is always
welcomed in the markets on account of its blanched appearance.

304

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Ever-White Curled Endive (^ natural size).

into narrow strips,
which become much
entangled as they
grow and form a
bulky and compact
head weighing a little
over 2 Ib. Its appear-
ance seems to confirm
the opinion that it is
a cross between the
Common Endive of
the south and the
curled Stag's - horn
Endive. It is not to
be recommended for
the north of France,
not being hardy
enough.

I ntermediate
Bordeaux Endive. —
About Bordeaux
there is a variety
grown under the name
of Bastard Endive
with broadly cut

Another variety of
White Curled Endive, in
which the leaves are
wavy and curled rather
tha'n much divided, was
formerly in cultivation,
but it has been super-
seded by the present very
finely cut variety.

Curled Christmas
Endive. — A very inter-
esting variety grown for
some years past in the
vicinity of Saint-Remy de
Provence and Chateau-
Renard, for winter use.
The outer leaves are
simply cut and curled
at the edges, while the
inner leaves are deeply
laciniated and divided

Curled Christmas Endive.

ENDIVE

305

leaves. It forms the connecting link between the Curled-leaved
and the Broad-leaved, or Batavian, varieties. It is chiefly in-
teresting for having given birth to the following variety.

Queen of the Winter Endive. — A new variety, half way
between the Broad-leaved, or Batavian, and the Curled Endives.

Queen of the Winter Endive.

The leaves are broadly lobated rather than cut. It is hardy, or
almost so, in the climate of Paris. Raised from seed of the
Bordeaux Bastard Endive grown for several years at Geneva, it is
a decided improvement upon the original form.

Broad-leaved, or Batavian, Endive (French, Chicoree-Scarole
Ronde]. — Rosette broad, often 16 in. in diameter ; leaves entire,
toothed at the edges and more or less twisted or waved, with broad,
thick white midribs. The central leaves, being partially turned
inwards, serve to cover
and protect the heart of
the plant, thus forming a
sort of a very dwarf head.
When the plant is in
this condition, the French
gardeners say that it is
" bouclt? or " curled."
When well*" grown and
artificially blanched in the
manner described at the
commencement of this
article, this plant forms
one of the best winter salads. The blanched inner leaves are
particularly tender and crisp, and have a fine and very agreeable
flavour. This variety is far more extensively cultivated than any
other kind.

Broad-leaved, or Batavian, Endive (\ natural sire).

20

306

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Broad-leaved Limay Endive.

Broad- leaved
Limay Endive. —

Leaves very large, and
in a rosette of palish
green, puckered, entire,
the inner ones cut into
rather deep but not
very numerous lobes,
very much puckered,
and forming a stout
head. This is a larger
variety than the
Common Broad-leaved
kind, to which it is
preferred in some locali-
ties near Paris, with-
out any very apparent
reason.

White Batavian
Endive. — Rosette
rather broader than that
of the Common Broad-leaved kind, but not so full, and especially
remarkable for the very pale colour of the leaves. This variety
heads to a much less extent than any other kind, and is usually
cut when young, before
it is fully grown. It
is less hardy than the
Common Broad - leaved
kind, and more liable to
be spoiled by damp, but
on account of its light
colour it is in much re-
quest for salad. It is
chiefly grown for summer
and autumn use, and by
making successional sow-
ings it can always be had
tender.

Hooded Batavian, or
Hardy Green Winter,
Endive (Chicore'e en
cornet). — This variety
differs very much in ap-
pearance from the other
kinds of Endive, and
even from the Other White Batavian Endive (I natural size>

ENDIVE 307

Broad-leaved kinds. Its leaves are fewer, but much larger, being
almost as broad as long, and cut at the edges into numerous
long teeth. The midrib appears to branch from the base of
the leaf, over which it
diverges in all directions.
The leaf, which is at first
folded up in the centre
of the plant, opens out
as it grows, like a twisted
paper bag unfolding it-
self; frequently it forms
a kind of hood, which
continues to envelop the
younger leaves for a
considerable time, thus
producing a genuine head.

If the plant were im- Hardy Green Winter Batavian Endive.

proved in this direction,

it would afford an excellent winter salad, as it is hardy and with-
stands ordinary winters in the climate of Paris when protected
with a covering of leaves or straw mats. It is especially suitable
for the west and south of France. It is possible that, by attention
and perseverance, a sub-variety may be raised from this plant with
a perfect head like that of a Lettuce or a Cabbage, but it is to be
feared that it is not quite hardy enough for the northern and
central districts of France.

The Bordeaux Hooded Batavian Endive differs from the
preceding only by its deeper cut foliage. It is much grown in the
south-west of France.

White Var Batavian Endive. — A large, compact rosette of
broad-toothed leaves, with thick ribs and of a light ashy green,
more deeply cut than those of the Green and the White Batavian
Endive. For winter cultivation in Provence it has superseded all
other varieties. Sown at intervals from August to October, it
produces fair-sized plants during the whole winter.

EVENING PRIMROSE
(Enothera biennis, L. Onagracece.

French, Enothtre bisannuelle, Onagre. German, Rapuntica. Flemish, Ezelskruid.

Italian, Rapontica.

Native of Peru. — Biennal. — A plant with a rather thick, long
tap-root, the flesh of which is white and firm. Radical leaves
growing in a rosette, stalked, obovate or elliptic in shape, sinuate-
toothed at the base ; stems erect, branching, over 3 ft. in height,
bearing lanceolate leaves which are more or less narrowed into

308

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the leaf-stalk ; flowers yellow, large, in leafy terminal clusters ;

seed-vessels long, furrowed, narrowed at both ends ; seeds small,

brown, with five or six flat facets.
Their germinating power lasts for
three years. The culture and uses of
this plant are almost the same as those
of the Salsafy. It is more, however,
as a curiosity that we mention it,
although its rather tender and fleshy
root is sometimes used as a table
vegetable. It should be employed
for this purpose at the end of the first
year of its growth, -.when the plant
has put forth only one rosette of
leaves.

FENNEL

French, Fenouil. German, Fenchel. Flemish
and Dutch, Venkel. Danish, F'ennikel.
Evening Primrose (i natural size). Italian, Fmocchio. Spanish, Hinojo.

Native of Southern Europe.—

Perennial. — The following three plants of the genus Fceniculum
are in cultivation, and most authors are agreed in thinking that
each of them should be referred to a different botanical species.

Common Wild, or Bitter, Fennel (Fcenicu/um vulgare, Gaertn.).
— Perennial. — Rather common in France in the wild state. Leaves
very much divided into thread-like segments ; leaf-stalks broad,
almost membranous, clasping the stem, which is smooth, hollow,
and about 5 ft. high ; flowers green, in broad, terminal umbels ;
seeds long, round at both ends, and retaining the remains of the
withered stigma, dark gray in colour, with five ribs, three of which
are on the back of the seed, and one at each side. Their germi-
nating power lasts for four years. This plant requires no attention.
It is perennial and hardy to such a degree that it is often found
growing on old walls, rubbish-heaps, etc. Sometimes, but rarely,
the leaves are used for seasoning. The plant is chiefly grown for
its seeds, which are often used in the manufacture of liqueurs.

Common Garden, or Long Sweet, Fennel (Fceniculum
officinale, All. ; Anethum Fceniculum, L. Fenouil Doux). — Native of
Southern Europe. — Biennial, or annual in cultivation. — Although
this plant bears some resemblance to the Wild Fennel, it differs
from it in having much stouter stems, and the leaves much less
divided, the segments being also of larger size, and of a more
glaucous green. It also differs in the remarkable size of the leaf-
stalk, the sides of which spread and are curved in such a manner

FENNEL

309

as to sheath part of the stem and even the base of the leaf above
it. Flowers green, in broader umbels than those of the Wild
Fennel, and with stouter and stiffer rays ; seeds at least twice as
long as those of the wild kind, flat on one side and convex on the
other, traversed by five thick yellowish ribs, which occupy almost
the entire surface of the skin. Their germinating power lasts for
four years.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in drills during summer, but
generally it is sown in autumn, in order to have the crop come in
during the following spring. It is chiefly used raw as a side dish ;
the seeds are also used in the manufacture of liqueurs.

This is the famous " Carosella" so extensively used in Naples,
and scarcely known in any other place ; the plant is used while in
the act of running to bloom ; the stems, fresh and tender, are
broken and served up raw, still enclosed in the expanded leaf-
stalks. They are esteemed a great delicacy, and by means of
successional sowings the Italian gardeners are able to send it to
market almost all the year round.

Finocchio, or Florence Fennel (Fceniculum dulce, D.C.). —
— Native of Italy. — Annual. — A very distinct, low-growing, and
thick-set plant, with a very short
stem, which has the joints very
close together towards the base.
Leaves large, very finely cut, and
light green ; leaf-stalks very broad,
of a whitish green hue, overlap-
ping one another at the base of
the stem, the whole forming a

Finocchio, or Florence Fennel
(£ natural size).

kind of head or enlargement

varying in size from that of a

hen's egg to that of the fist, firm,

white, and sweet inside. The

greatest height of the plant, even

when run to seed, does not exceed

from 2 to about 2} ft. The

flower umbels are large, with thick

rays, which have a mild, sweet

flavour. Seeds oblong, very broad in proportion to their length,

flat on one side and convex on the other, with five prominent

ribs, in the intervals between which the gray colour of the seed

is well shown. Their germinating power lasts for four years.

CULTURE AND USES. — The seed is usually sown in spring for
a summer crop, and towards the end of summer for a late autumn
crop, in warm countries. It is sown in rows 16 to 20 in. apart.
All the attention required is to thin out the seedlings so as to have
them 5 or 6 in. apart, and to water the plants as often and as

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

plentifully as possible. When the head or enlargement of the
leaf-stalks at the base of the stem has attained about the size of a
hen's egg, it may be slightly earthed up so as to cover half of it,
and in about ten days afterwards cutting for use may be commenced
with the most forward plant, and continued as each plant advances
in growth. The plant is usually eaten boiled. In flavour it some-
what resembles Celery, but with a sweet taste and a more delicate
odour. Up to the present time, it is not much used in France, but
it deserves to be more extensively cultivated.

FENNEL FLOWER
Nigella sativa, L. Ranunculacea.

French, Nigelle aromatique. German, Schwarz-Kummel. Flemish and Dutch,
Narduszaad. Spanish, Neguilla.

Native of the East. — Annual. — An erect-growing plant, with
a stiff, somewhat hairy, and branching stem. Leaves very deeply

cut into linear segments, and
of a gray- green colour ; flowers
terminal, pale or gray-blue,
succeeded by toothed seed-
vessels filled with almost
triangular seeds, which are
rough-skinned, black, and have
rather a strong aromatic flavour.
Their germinating power lasts
for three years. There is a
variety with yellow seeds, but
resembling the type in every
other respect. The seed is
sown in April or May, and
preferably in light warm soil.
The plants require no attention
while growing, and the seed

Fennel Flower (flower and seed-vessel,
\ natural size).

ripens towards August. The
ripe seeds are used for seasoning
in various culinary preparations.
In Germany the name of Schwarz-Kummel is also applied to
the seeds of the single-flowered Nigella damascena.

COMMON GARLIC

A Ilium sativum, L. Liliacece.

French, Ail ordinaire. German, Gewohnlicher Knoblauch. Flemish, Look. Dtitch,
Knoflook. Danish, Hvidlog. Italian, Aglio. Spanish, Ajo vulgar. Portuguese, Alho.

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — A bulbous plant, all
the parts of which, and especially the underground portion, have

COMMON GARLIC

a very strong and well-known burning taste. The bulbs or heads
are composed of about ten cloves, enveloped by a very thin white
or rose-coloured membranous skin. The plant hardly ever flowers
in the climate of Paris at
least, and is propagated
exclusively by means of
the cloves, for which pur-
pose those on the outside
of the head should be
selected, in preference to
the inner ones, which are
not so well developed.

CULTURE. — At Paris
the cloves are usually
planted as soon as winter
is over. Sometimes,
especially in the south of
France, they are planted
in October for an early summer crop. The plant likes rich,
deep, well-drained soil. In damp soils, or when watered too
much, it often rots. When the stem is fully grown, gardeners
are in the habit of twisting it into a knot, in order to increase
the size of the bulbs. After the stems have withered, the bulbs
are taken up, and will keep well from one year to another.
The Common Garlic is the most grown. The membranous skin
or covering of the bulbs is of a silvery white colour.

Common Garlic (^ natural size).

Plant the cloves (i.e. the separated
portions of the bulbs) in shallow
drills about i ft. asunder, and 6 in.
apart in the row, covering them
with soil to the depth of i or 2 in. ;
or plant whole bulbs i ft. apart eacn
way, and never deep, as wet is apt
to get down among the cloves,
causing canker and mildew. Merely
stretch a line or measure , take the
bulbs by the neck and press them
half or, say, two-thirds into the soil ;
then drop a pinch of fine sifted
cinder-ashes over them, to prevent

worms from drawing them out of
the ground. February is about the
best season to plant them. A small
quantity may be planted in autumn,
if it be desired to have a stock early
the following season. From this
autumnal or, to speak more pre-
cisely, October planting, bulbs may
be taken up for use early in the
succeeding summer. Any time after
the leaves turn yellow the crop may
be taken up and dried, hanging it
up in bunches by the stalks in any
airy room.

USES. — In southern countries Garlic is very much used in
cookery, but it is not so highly esteemed in the countries of the
north. It is only just to say, however, that, when grown in cold
climates, it has a stronger and more biting or burning flavour than
it has in warm countries.

312 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Pink Garlic. — This is an earlier variety than the
Common Garlic, and is also distinguished from it by the pink or
rosy colour of the skin which covers the head. About Paris, this
variety is almost always planted in autumn, as it is said not to
succeed well if planted in spring.

Red Garlic. — A variety cultivated in almost all parts of
France, but especially in the eastern provinces. It is remarkable
for the size of its bulbs, which are rather flat, and composed of
short and thick cloves of a purple-red colour. These cloves
separate from each other at the upper end of the head by tearing
their membranous cover. The cloves of the Red Garlic are much
larger than those of the White Garlic. The Red Garlic requires
also a richer and more substantial soil.

Some years ago, a variety came into notice, under the name
of Ail Rond du Limousin. This did not appear to us to differ
appreciably from the Common Garlic, from which round heads or
bulbs can always be obtained by planting late in the season ; and,
if these heads are replanted entire in the following year, they will
produce heads of enormous size.

Great-headed Garlic (A Ilium Ampeloprasum, L. Ail d* Orient}.
— Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — This plant produces a
very large head or bulb, composed of cloves, in the same way as
that of the Common Garlic, but of milder flavour. The stem,
leaves, and flowers are so like those of the Leek that there is every
reason to think that both plants have originated from the same
type, and have been differently modified by cultivation, the bulb
in the one case and the stem in the other having been the subject
of improvement. When Leeks produce cloves, which occurs pretty
often, these cloves are exactly like those of the Great-headed
Garlic. The flowers, which grow in a large round head, yield
fertile seeds, but the plant is most usually propagated by means of
the cloves, this being a speedier method. The culture and uses are
the same as those of the preceding kinds.

ROCAMBOLE

A Ilium Scorodoprasum, L.

French, Ail Rocambole. German, Roccambol. Danish, Rokambol. Italian, Agile-
d' India. Portuguese, Alho de Hespanha.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — The stem, which is
twisted spirally in the upper part, bears at the top a cluster of
bulblets, from which the plant may be propagated ; they are
seldom, however, used for this purpose, as more speedy results are
obtained by planting the cloves of the underground bulb. The
cloves should be planted in autumn, or not later than February, in
rows about 12 in. apart, leaving about 3^ in. between the plants.
Its uses are the same as those of the Common Garlic.

ANNUAL GOOSEFOOT OR WHITE QUINOA 313

ANNUAL GOOSEFOOT or WHITE QUINOA

Chenopodium Quinoa^ Willd. Chenopodiacea.
French, Anserine Quinoa blanc. German, Pemanischer Reis-Spinat.

Native- of Peru. — Annual.— Stem 4 to 6 ft. high ; leaves arrow-
shaped, divided into three not very deep lobes, smooth, glaucous,
mealy, and of thin texture ; flowers small, green, in compact
corymbs; seeds round and flat, small and white. Their germinating
power lasts for four years.

CULTURE. — The plant is grown in the same way as Orache.
The seed is sown in April, where the plants are to stand. The
young plants should be thinned out 8 in. apart every way, and
plentifully watered in hot weather, which is the only attention they
require. The seed ripens in August or September.

USES. — The leaves are eaten like Spinach. In Peru the seeds
are used in soups, cakes, and also for making a kind of beer.
Before they are used for any of these purposes, they should be
subjected to a preliminary boiling, in order to remove the acrid
principle which they contain, and which, if allowed to remain,
would render the flavour very unpleasant.

PERENNIAL GOOSEFOOT or GOOD KING HENRY
Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus, L. Chenopodiacece.

French, Anserine Bon- Henri. German, Gemeiner Gansefuss. Flemish and Dutch,
Ganzevoet. Italian, Bono Enrico.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Stem about 2\ ft. high, smooth,
slightly channelled ; leaves alternate, long-stalked, arrow-shaped,
undulated, smooth, and dark green, frosted or mealy on the under-
surface, rather thick and fleshy ; flowers small, green, in close,
compact clusters ; seeds black, small, kidney-shaped. Their ger-
minating power lasts for five years.

CULTURE AND USES. — This plant, being perennial and
extremely hardy, will grow and yield abundantly for several years,
without any attention except the occasional use of the hoe. It is
easily raised from seed, which is best sown in spring, either where
the plants are to stand or, preferably, in a seed-bed. In the latter
case, the seedlings are pricked out once before they are permanently
planted out 16 in. apart every way. The leaves are eaten like
Spinach, and it has been suggested to use the shoots, like
Asparagus, as a very early vegetable, blanched by simply earthing
them up.

An excellent vegetable for Eng- almost every garden having its bed,

land, and deserves to be more which, if placed in a warm corner

generally planted. It is extensively and well manured, yields an abun-

grown by the Lincolnshire farmers, dant supply of delicious shoots a

314 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

fortnight before Asparagus comes boiled in plenty of water. When

in, and for some weeks after- tender, strain and serve simply* or

wards. From a south border cut- upon toast. Some have melted

ting generally commences early in butter with it, others eat it simply

April, and continues until the end with the gravy and meat. In cul-

of June. Some say they like it tivation, the Mercury, as it is called

better than Asparagus. When pro- also, will grow anywhere ; but, to

perly grown, the young shoots should have it in the best form, good cul-

be almost as thick as the little tivation is necessary. To this end

ringer, and in gathering it should you cannot have the ground too

be cut under the ground some- deep nor too rich; plant as early

thing the same as Asparagus. In in the spring as possible to get an

preparing it for use, if the outer abundant yield of shoots, and to

skin or bark have become tough, get them as strong as possible. In

strip it off. from the bottom upwards, planting, put the rows 1 8 in. apart,

and then wash and tie it up in and the plants i ft. apart in the row.

bunches like Asparagus. It is best It is wild in some parts of England.

GOURDS

Cucurbita, L. Cucurbit acece.

French, Courges. German, Speise-Kurbiss. Flemish and Dutch, Pompoen. Danish,
Groeskar. Italian, Zucca. Spanish, Calabaza. Portuguese, Abobora.

The cultivation of Gourds dates from a very early period, and
few vegetables are more extensively grown. The almost innumer-
able varieties of them which are met with have long since induced
the conclusion that they could not all have possibly originated from
a single type, but to M. Charles Naudin belongs the credit of having
first thrown light upon the chaos of species and varieties, and of
having ascertained the origin and parentage of the different forms,
all of which he refers to three very distinct species, viz. Cucurbita
maxima, Duch., C. moschata, Duch., and C. Pepo, L. We shall
describe in succession the varieties which have sprung from each of
these different botanical types, following the classification of
M. Naudin, and we may remark that we do not know any form
of Gourd that should necessarily be considered a hybrid between
any two of these species. Although the various forms of cultivated
Gourds have, as we have just observed, originated from plants
which differ in their botanical characteristics and also in their
native habitats, they nevertheless, in their mode of growth and in
their fruit, exhibit a striking resemblance, from which it is easy to
understand how it was that they were for a long time supposed to
be mere varieties of a single species. They are all annual climbing
plants, furnished with tendrils ; their stems are perfectly herbaceous,
very long, pliant, and tough, angular and rough ; the leaves are
broad, with hollow stalks, and roundish or kidney-shaped lobes

GOURDS 315

sometimes more or less incised or deeply cut ; the flowers are
large, yellow, and monoecious ; and the fruit is round or elongated,
almost always ribbed, and with the seeds in a central cavity,
surrounded by usually thick flesh. The plants grow very rapidly,
and heat is indispensable for their development. Being originally
natives of warm climates, they cannot be sown in France before
May without the aid of artificial heat, and their growth is com-
pletely stopped by the early frosts, which make havoc of all
their green parts.

CULTURE. — The seed is usually sown in the open ground in
May. In order to forward the growth, round or square holes, of
various widths and about 20 in. deep, are filled with manure, upon
which is placed a layer of soil or compost from 6 to 8 in. thick. In
this the seed is sown, two or three seeds being usually given to
each hole. The space to be left between the plants varies according
as the variety grown is of a more or less spreading habit of growth.
For an early crop, the seed may either be sown in a hot-bed and
the seedlings pricked out into another hot-bed before they are
finally planted out, or it may be sown in pots placed on a hot-bed
in which the plants are left until they are finally planted out.
When very large fruit are desired, only two or three should be left
on each plant, the best being selected, and the branches should be
cut a few leaves beyond the last fruit. The readiness with which
the stems of Gourds take root may also be turned to account by
covering those stems which bear the finest fruit here and there
with soil at the joints, where they soon strike root, especially
if watered now and then, if needful. The effect of this is to
increase the size of the fruit, in consequence of the additional
supply of nutriment.

USES. — The fruit, whether young or fully grown, is cooked and
sent to table in an infinite variety of ways, and there are also some
varieties which are eaten raw, like Cucumbers. The only Gourd
generally cultivated in England is the Vegetable Marrow, and the
importance and value of the others, especially the keeping kinds
grown in America and France, deserve to be better known here.

I. Cucurbita maxima, Duch., and Varieties

This species is the parent of the largest-sized Gourds ; amongst
others, of those known by the name of Pumpkins. All the cultivated
varieties of Cucurbita maxima exhibit in common the following
characteristics : The leaves are large, kidney-shaped, rounded, and
never deeply divided ; the numerous stiff hairs which cover all the
green parts of the plant never become spiny ; the segments of the
calyx are united for a certain portion of their length, and the whole
of this portion is devoid of well-marked ribs and presents only a

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

few veins or nerves ; the segments of the calyx are narrowed from
the base to the extremity ; lastly, the stalk of the fruit is always
roundish and without ribs, often thickens considerably after the
flower has fallen, becomes cracked, and sometimes attains a
diameter twice or three times that of the stem. The seeds are
rather variable in size and colour, but always very smooth. Their
germinating power lasts for six years. The principal varieties
which have sprung from Cucurbita maxima are the following : —

PUMPKINS

French, Potirons. Gorman, Melonen-0dfe?--Centner-Kurbiss. Danish, Centner- Groeskar.
Italian, Zucca. Spanish, Calabaza totanera.

Under this name, which does not correspond to any botanical
division, are grouped a certain number of varieties of Cucurbita

maxima which are re-
markable for the great
size of their fruit. In
France they are grown
on a large scale for
market, and also on
farms for home use. At
the Central Market in
Paris Pumpkins may
often be seen which
weigh over a hundred-
weight each.

Large Yellow
Pumpkin. — Stems
climbing, from 16 to
nearly 20 ft. long; leaves
very large, round, or
with five faintly marked
angles, and of a dark
green colour ; fruit very
much flattened at the
ends, and with well-
marked ribs ; skin of a
salmon - yellow colour,
and slightly cracked or
netted when ripe ; flesh
yellow, thick, fine flavoured, sweet, and keeping good for a long
time. In the United States, under the name of Connecticut Field
Pumpkin, a variety is grown which resembles the present one,
except in having a somewhat finer skin.

Long Yellow Pumpkin (T\ natural size).

PUMPKINS

317

Globe Mammoth Pumpkin. — In some respects the fruit
resembles that of the preceding sort. The colour is the same,

Globe Mammoth Pumpkin.

but it is spherical in shape. In size it surpasses it, however,
and attains enormous dimensions. The flesh is yellow and delicate
and xkeeps well during winter.

Etampes Pumpkin. — Fruit of medium size, not so broad
as that of the Large
Yellow Pumpkin, but
relatively thicker ; ribs
broad and well marked ;
skin a very bright and
distinct orange colour.
The cultivation of this
variety has been very
much extended of late
years, and it is now
the kind which is most
frequently seen in the
Central Market at Paris.
In its habit of growth
it resembles the Large
Yellow Pumpkin, but
its leaves are rather
paler. There are two
forms of it, one of which has the fruit quite smooth. This we
consider to be truer to name than the other form, which has the skin

Ltampes Pumpkin (T^ natural size).

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of the fruit more or less cracked and netted. Some cultivators prefer

the latter, saying that it has thicker flesh. It appears to us to be a

reversion towards the
Large Yellow variety.
Nicaise Pumpkin.
— A reduced form of
the preceding, and
rougher and more
netted. Each plant can
produce three or four
small fruit, which for
the use of small families
is more convenient than
two large fruit

Large Green
Pumpkin. — Fruit
large, rather flattened,
with a dark green skin,
which is often cracked
or netted when ripe.
It is a good hardy
variety, but the follow-
ing kind is now rather
more in favour.
Spanish Gourd or Pumpkin. — Stems 10 to 13 ft. long ; leaves

of medium size, roundish, of a dark green slightly tinged with

ash colour ; fruit of medium size or even small, very much

flattened, hollowed on both ends ; skin green, often very finely

netted, which gives it a

gray tint ; flesh bright

yellow, very thick, and

keeping good for a very

long time. This excellent

variety, which is in very

great demand in the

markets, has the advantage

of producing fruit of a

moderate size, which are

generally more convenient

for family use than the

very large kinds, which

often become spoiled before

the whole of them Can be Spanish Gourd or Pumpkin.

eaten, all kinds of Gourds

being very difficult to keep after the skin is cut. When growing,

the plant will carry two or three fruit well.

Nicaise Pumpkin.

PUMPKINS

319

Boulogne Gray
Pumpkin. — The size of
this fine variety approaches
that of the old Large
Green Pumpkin, but in
the colour and appearance
of the skin, and the
quality of the flesh, it
resembles the Spanish
Gourd. The plant is of
vigorous growth, pretty
early, and very productive,
with large broad leaves,
and fruit which are often
from 2\ to 3 ft. across,
and about half as thick.
The skin is a dark olive
colour, sometimes a little
bronzy on the side next

the sun, and marked with
. .L j. , i , r
longitudinal bands of a

.
natural size).

Boulogne Gray Pumpkin

slightly paler colour; the whole surface is also covered with a
great number of very fine short parallel lines, which give it the

gray tint from which the
variety is named. The
flesh is yellow, thick, and
floury. The fruit of this
variety keeps at least
as long as that of the
Etampes Pumpkin. It
was raised a few years ago
at Boulogne - sur - Seine,
and has come extensively
into cultivation, being in
high repute with the
market-gardeners about
Paris.

Large Bronze-
coloured Montlhery

^^*£^^BK--£;£Y\V^HV_ Pumpkin. — Stem trail-
ing, from 1 6 to 1 8 ft long.
Leaves numerous, erect,
large, lobate,and intensely
green. The fruit is round,
with well - marked ribs
Large Bronze- coloured Montlhery Pumpkin. and dark greenish brown

320

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Waited Marrow Squash .
(| natural size).

skin ; flesh a beautiful yellow, and of excellent quality. It ripens

rather later than > the varieties described above, and keeps well

long after the Etampes Pumpkin has disappeared from the

market.

Waited Marrow Squash. — A vigorous plant, with stems from

13 to over 1 6 ft. long. Large leaves, dark green, round, or some-
times undulated in outline. This
variety, raised in the neighbour-
hood of Bordeaux, is evidently
very closely allied to the Turk's
Cap. or Turban Gourd, but differs
from it in some very marked
characteristics. In the first place,
the enlargement in the upper part
of the fruit is very slight, and
sometimes altogether wanting; and
in the next, the whole surface of
the skin, when ripe, is covered with

corky excrescences, somewhat like those seen on the skin of

Netted Melons. This gives the variety a very distinct character.

The flesh of the fruit is orange-coloured, very thick and sweet,

and of excellent quality.

Chestnut Squash. — A vigorous plant, with stems from 13 to

over 1 6 ft. long. Leaves round, entire, usually undulated at the

edges. This is an excellent variety, with medium-sized or small

fruit, somewhat flattened at

the ends, but not concave,

as Pumpkins often are.

Ribs barely defined, or

altogether wanting ; skin

smooth, of an intense brick-
red colour ; flesh deep

yellow, very thick, sweet,

floury, and keeping well.

A plant may carry three

or four fruit well.

Valparaiso Squash. —

Stems trailing, from 16 to

nearly 20 ft. long. Leaves

entire, somewhat elongated,

toothed and spiny at the

edges, of a clear green colour, sometimes silvery gray on the

upper surface ; fruit oblong, narrowed at both ends, about 16 to

20 in. long, and 12 to 14 in. in diameter in its widest part, and

shaped something like a Lemon ; ribs faintly defined, or altogether

wanting ; skin white, slightly tinged with gray, covered, when ripe,

Chestnut Squash (£ natural size).

PUMPKINS

321

with a great number of
small cracks or very fine
tracings ; flesh orange-
coloured, sweet, and of
delicate flavour. A plant,
unless it is exceptionally
strong, should not be
allowed to carry more
than two fruit. These
often weigh from 27 to
33 Ib. each, and even more,
and are rather difficult
to keep.

Prolific Early
Marrow. — A distinct and
very interesting variety,
in shape like the Hubbard
Squash, but with the
colour of the Chestnut
Squash. A trailing plant,
not usually more than
6 to 8 ft. in length, it
branches out very little,
and ceases altogether early
in the season, after having
produced three or four fruit. The
of any other Squash, and keeps

Prolific Early Marrow.

Valparaiso Squash.

fruit ripens earlier than those
well into winter. They are
not large, and seldom
weigh more than 6J Ib.

Boston Marrow
Squash. — Skin orange-
red ; flesh salmon colour.
Not quite so early as the
Prolific Early Marrow,
but in other respects
differs little from it.

Hubbard Squash. —
A very vigorous-growing
kind, with trailing,
branching stems, often
1 6 to nearly 20 ft long.
Leaves round, slightly
sinuated, and very finely
toothed at the edges.
The fruit has a slight
resemblance to that of

21

322

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the Ohio Squash, but it is often shorter, more pointed at the
stalk end, and is quite different in colour, being dark green,

sometimes marbled with
brick-red. The flesh is
dark yellow, very floury,
not very sweet, rather
dry, and, in America, is
considered to be of ex-
cellent quality ; it also
keeps good for a very
long time. The skin is
so hard and thick that
it cannot always be cut
with an ordinary knife.
A plant will carry and
ripen five or six fruit well.
Warted Hubbard
Squash. — Only differs
from the Hubbard Squash
in having the skin com-

Hubbard Squash (^ natural size).

pletely covered with protuberances larger than in the type.

Golden Hubbard Squash. — Differs from the type in being
orange-red.

Marble-head Squash.
— Another American
variety ; differs from the
Hubbard only in being
ashy gray.

Olive Squash. — A
vigorous variety, derived
from C. maxima. The
fruit weigh from 6 to
II lb., and in shape and
colour resemble an olive.
The skin is smooth, the
rind thin, and the flesh
golden-yellow, firm, very
abundant, and of fine
quality. Its weak point is
its lateness in the climate
of Paris.

Ohio Squash, or

Californian Marrow.— A oiive Squash,

variety of American origin.

Stem creeping, 16 to nearly 20 ft. long ; leaves entire, round,
kidney-shaped, or with five faintly marked lobes, sometimes

PUMPKINS

323

wavy at the edges. The fruit_ somewhat resembles that of

the Valparaiso Squash

in shape, but is not so

long in proportion to its

width,, which is sometimes

10 in., while the length

seldom exceeds 12 to 14 in.;

ribs very faintly marked ;

skin almost quite smooth,

of a light salmon -pink

colour. The flesh is very

flouty, and in high repute

in the United States, where _>

this variety and the Hubbard

Squash are two of the most Ohio Squash, or Californian Marrow (J natural size).

extensively grown kinds.

A plant should not be allowed to carry more than three or

four fruit.

Large Waited Portugal Squash.— Resembles the preceding,
^l-f i'^ but is larger. Other points

of difference are its bright
orange-red colour .and
warted ribbed skin. The
flesh is sweet, abundant,
and a fine dark yellow.

Mammoth Whale
Gourd. — This is one of the
largest Gourds of the series
of the Cucurbita maxima^
often measuring over a yard
in length and weighing as
much as | to I cwt. Its
shape is long, thick in the
middle and narrowed at
both ends, especially at the
stalk end. Its colour is
gray-green. The flesh is a
fine orange-yellow, and of
excellent quality ; it keeps
a long time. This Gourd
appears to have been
derived from a Pumpkin,
but instead of being a
globe shape, it lengthened
out, the seed cavity being

reduced to a small size, to the advantage of the fleshy part.

Portugal Squash.

324

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Turk's-cap, or Turban, Gourd.— A very distinct kind of
Gourd, well known everywhere from its peculiar shape, for which
it has received the common name of Turk's-cap, or Turban,

Gourd. There is an
almost infinite number
of forms of it, all of
the characteristic tur-
ban shape, but differ-
ing from one another
in the size and colour
of the fruit. The kind
which is most eom-
monly grown, and
which may be con-
sidered the type of
the variety, produces
fruit weighing from
about 6 to 9 Ib. each,
bearing on the end
farthest from the stalk
a cap-shaped enlarge-
ment, which is some-
times hemispherical,
and sometimes with
four or five deeply
cut ribs. The fruit is
hardly ever uniform
in colour, being often
variegated in a variety
of ways, most fre-
quently with dark
green, yellow, and red.
One of these colours
is often absent, and
sometimes the fruit is
entirely of a dark
green hue. The flesh
is of a fine orange
colour, and is thick,

Mammoth Whale Squash.

floury, and sweet.

Small Chinese
Turban Gourd. — Introduced from China by the authorities of
the Museum of Natural History at Paris, it is a very distinct
plant, and appear to possess a considerable degree of merit. It
differs from the Gourds hitherto known in Europe, in the small
size of its fruit, which do not usually exceed 2 or 3 Ib. each

PUMPKINS

325

in weight. They are generally of a bright red colour, marked

longitudinally with yellow and dark green. The crown is well

marked, but usually not

very prominent. Flesh

yellow, firm, floury, and

sweet. A plant may

carry ten fruit or even

more. They ripen pretty

early, and keep admirably.

Turk's-cap, or Turban, Gourd

(i natural size). Small Chinese Turban Gourd Q natural size).

This is one of the few kitchen-garden vegetables which we have
received ready-made from China.

OTHER VARIETIES OF Cucurbita maxima

Sometimes, under the name of Ccurge de Chypre (Cyprus, or
Musk, Gourd), a variety is met with which is of medium size,
slightly flattened, with very faintly marked ribs, and with a smooth
gray skin, variegated or
marbled with pale green
or pink. This kind does
well in the south of France,
but is rather late for the
climate of Paris. The same
applies to the Valencia
Gourd, the fruit of which
is larger, almost as thick
as it is long, ribbed like a
Melon, and ashy green.
The Mission Gourd is a
small milky white variety,
flattened, with numerous
prominent ribs. It weighs

less than 2 lb., and often Valencia Squash.

much less, but one plant

can produce as many as a dozen fruit. To Cucurbita maxima

must also be referred a variety of Gourd which does not climb

326

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

or creep, and was introduced from South America, twenty years
ago, under the name of Zapallito de Tronco. It is not a productive
kind, and seems to have gone out of cultivation. In North
America, under the name of Essex Hybrid Squash, or American
Turban, a variety is grown which has thick, almost cylindrical
fruit, with the crown hardly defined, and of a uniform salmon-pink
colour, almost exactly resembling the tint of the Ohio Squash.

II. Cucurbita moschata, Duch., and Varieties

The varieties which have sprung from this species have all long
running stems, which readily take root, and are covered (as are also
the leaves and leaf-stalks) with numerous hairs, which never become
spiny. They are also distinguished by having the fruit-stalk
(which is pentangular or sexangular, like that of Cuburbita Pepd]
swollen where it joins the fruit. The leaves are not cut, but exhibit
well-marked angles, and are dark green relieved by blotches of
silvery white produced by a thin layer of air under the skin, which
rises here and there between the principal veins or nerves. The
calyx has the segments divided almost as far as the stalk, and often
broader at the extremity than at the base ; they sometimes become
leafy. The seeds are variable in size, but always a dirty white, and
margined and covered by a loosely adhering membrane or skin,
which often becomes detached here and
there, giving the seeds a shaggy appearance.
Their germinating power lasts for six years.
This species derives its name from the musky
flavour which all the varieties of it possess,
to a greater or less extent, in the flesh of
the fruit.

Carpet-bag Gourd, or Naples Squash.—
Stem trailing, 10 to 13 ft. long ; leaves
medium-sized, entire, rounded or five-angled,
of a deep and rather dull green, with veins
and spots of whitish gray, clearly relieved
on the green ground : fruit large, 20 in. to
2 ft. long, and 6 to 3 in. broad in its widest
part. The part next the stalk is nearly
cylindrical, but the lower part is more or
less swollen, and it is only in this part that
°[ seeds are found, the upper part being solidly
* filled with flesh without any central cavity.
Skin smooth, dark green, becoming yellow
when the fruit is quite ripe ; flesh orange coloured, very abundant,
sweet, perfumed, and keeping well. This variety is very productive,
and the fruit is of excellent quality. It has no fault except that

Carpet - bag Gourd,
Naples Squash
natural size).

PUMPKINS

327

X ?m

it ripens rather late. The Courge Pleine rfAlger and the Courge

des Bedouins appear to be

identical with this kind.

In Italy a gigantic variety

is grown, the fruit of

which, usually slightly

curved, often measures

upwards of 3 ft. in length,

and weighs from 33 to

44 Ib.

Early Carpet-bag

Gourd, or Early Nea-
politan Squash. — This

variety resembles the pre-
ceding one in habit of

growth, and only differs

from it in the smaller size

of its fruit, and its much

greater earliness, which

renders it a very valuable

plant, and one to be re-
commended for the climate

of the north of France in

preference to the previous

variety.

Mirepoix Musk Squash. — Stem strong and trailing, leaves

large, erect, with rounded lobes. Fruit pear-shaped, slightly ribbed,

dark green streaked with light green. The flesh is dark red, firm,

fragrant, and keeps well. A
variety raised in the south
of France, ripens well at
Paris, but not so well farther
north.

Yokohama Gourd.—
The only flat-fruited variety
of Cucurbita inoschata that
we know of is the Yokohama
Gourd, a Japanese variety
that has often been intro-
duced into Europe. It is a
plant of very rampant habit
and somewhat late in ripen-
ing. Fruit flattened in shape,
especially on the portion sur-
rounding the eye, generally

twice as broad as long, sometimes even more so, of a very dark

Mirepoix Musk Squash.

Yokohama Gourd (£ natural size).

328

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

green colour, with irregularly formed ribs, and the skin indented
and wrinkled, and like that of the Prescott Cantaloup Melon. It

has been named C. meloni-
formis (Rev. hort. 1880) by
M. Carriere.

Canada, or Winter Crook-
neck, Gourd. — This pretty little
Gourd is closely allied to the
Early Neapolitan Squash, but
differs from it chiefly in having
the portion of the fruit which
is next the stalk completely
filled with flesh (as in the Naples
Carpet-bag Gourd), and usually
curved like the neck of a swanr
in which respect it resembles
the Siphon Gourd. It possesses
the good qualities of earliness

Canada Crook-neck, or Winter, Gourd
($ natural size).

and excellent flavour, and also
keeps well. The plant is of
small size, the stems seldom

exceeding 5 or 6 ft. in length. It is therefore well adapted for

gardens of moderate extent.

OTHER VARIETIES OF Cucurbita moschata

There are also some forms of this species in which the fruit is
not elongated, but rounded or even flattened. Among the first
of these we may mention the Bordeaux Melon Squash — a vigorous-
growing plant, bearing great numbers of fruit, which are nearly
cylindrical, flattened at both ends, something like a drum, as broad
as they are long, and with faintly defined ribs. It is a productive
variety, with fruit of excellent quality, but rather late in ripening.
The Courge a la Violette of the south of France and the Courge
Pascale are two varieties closely allied to the preceding one, and,,
like it, have almost spherical fruit.

III. Cucurbita Pepo, L., and Varieties

This species is the parent of a very great number of cultivated
varieties, all of which exhibit the following characteristics of the
type: Leaves with lobes always well defined, and often deeply
cut ; hairs becoming spiny here and there ; fruit-stalks pentangular
or five-ribbed, never swollen under the fruit, and becoming
exceedingly hard when the fruit ripens ; segments of the calyx
united for some part of their length, and often slightly contracted

PUMPKINS

329

below the commencement of the divisions ; the part between the

stalk and the contractions usually has five prominent ribs, and

the segments of the calyx are narrowed from the base to the

extremity. The seed varies very much in appearance, but is always

winged or margined,

and is seldom as large

as that of the varieties

of Cucurbit a maxima.

The seed of the Custard

and Fancy Gourds is

much smaller. The

germinating power of

the seed of all kinds

of Gourds, except the

Large Tours Pumpkin,

lasts for six years or

more.

Vegetable Marrow.
— A plant with long,
slender, running stems.
Leaves of medium size,
deeply cut into five
lobes, which are often
undulated or toothed
at the edges, of a dark
green colour, sometimes Vegetable Marrow,

variegated with gray

spots, and very rough to the touch ; fruit oblong in shape, 10 to
1 6 in. long, and 4 or 5 in. in diameter, with five or ten ribs more
or less well marked, but most prominent on the part next the
stalk ; skin smooth, of a dull yellow or yellowish white colour.
The fruit is generally eaten when it is less than half grown, as
the flesh is then very tender ; when ripe, it is rather dry.

CULTURE. — The Marrow will
grow anywhere if supplied with
plenty of manure and moisture at
the root. For early Marrows the
seed should be sown in pots and
placed in a gentle heat any time in
April ; when they have made two
pairs of rough leaves they may be
hardened off ready for planting early
in June. Hand-lights should be
placed over them for a few days
after planting, until they become
established. It is a bad practice

to keep the lights on too long,
inasmuch as the plants do not grow
any faster and they are liable to
mildew — the latter disease being the
only drawback to growing Marrows
in pits or frames. Some gardeners
sow earlier and plant earlier, but
there is seldom anything gained by
it unless in exceptionally favourable
seasons. Marrows are generally
planted on old refuse-heaps, or old
manure beds, which places are well
suited to their growth. We have

330

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

seen them planted on great heaps of
decayed leaf-mould; on this they
grow and fruit, amazingly. They
may, however, be successfully grown
in any ground by taking out a few
spits of earth and digging in a
barrow-load of manure. Summer
Marrows do well planted in old
ditches or dykes that are compara-
tively dry during the summer

months. The usual time for sowing
seed of Marrows is in May and
June, and it is sown where- it is to
remain, having a flower-pot or hand-
light placed over it until it has ger-
minated. It is a good plan to soak
the seed in water for a few hours
previous to sowing. The same re-
marks as to culture apply to all the
tribe of Gourds.

Long Yellow Vegetable Marrow. — Runner stem 16 to
1 8 ft. long, with broad, lobate leaves. The fruit is three times
as long as it is thick, and not longer than 16 or 18 in. Skin
pale yellow, turning to gold as it ripens, smooth or slightly
ribbed on the upper half next the stalk. It resembles the old
Vegetable Marrow, but is longer and less ribbed. The flesh is
more delicate too, and is at its best when the fruit is about half
grown.

Brazilian Sugar Gourd. — A plant with long, slender, running
stems. Leaves lobed, rough, of a very dark green colour, and

finely crimped and puckered ;
fruit oblong, rather short,
swollen in the middle, with
five faintly marked ribs, and
sometimes slightly warted ;
skin green, turning orange
when ripe ; flesh yellow, thick,
and very sweet. This variety
is highly to be recommended,
on account of its earliness,
and the abundance and good
quality of its fruit, which keeps
for a long time. It ripens
half-early.

Patagonian Squash. — A
plant with very long running

Brazilian Sugar Gourd. . , J , *>, , , P

stems, and large, lobed, dark

green leaves. Fruit from 1 2 to 20 in. long, and 6 to 8 in. across,
traversed from end to end by five very regular ribs, which form
so many prominent rounded flutings; skin smooth, of an extremely
dark green, almost black, a colour which it retains when ripe ;
flesh yellow, of medium quality. This variety is remarkable for
its hardiness and productiveness.

Under the name of Alsatian Gourd, a variety has been highly
spoken of which resembles the Patagonian Squash, except that
ithe fruit is less angular and of a lighter green colour. When the

PUMPKINS

331

Patagonian Squash.

fruit of this variety is full

•grown, but before it is

ripe, it is used in salads,

cut in slices, and seasoned

in the same way as Gher-
kins. With care, it will

keep for some time in

winter.

Long White Bush

Marrow. — This variety is

very distinct in its habit

of growth. The stems,

instead of running, remain

very short and rather thick,

bearing closely set leaves

of a dark green colour

with a few gray blotches,

and deeply cut and toothed

at the edges. Fruit longer

than that of the Vegetable

Marrow, being from 14 to

20 in. in length, with a

diameter of 5^ or 6 in., narrowed towards the stalk, and traversed

by five ribs. Like the Vegetable Marrow, the fruit of this variety

is usually eaten before it is fully grown, the plant continuing

to produce new fruit in
succession.

Italian Vegetable
Marrow. — A very distinct
variety. Stems not run-
ning, very thick and short,
producing numerous
leaves of a dark green
colour, very large, and
very deeply cut into five
or six lobes, which are
also more or less notched.
The luxuriant foliage
forms a regular bush.
Fruit very much elon-
gated, being 20 in. or
more in length, with a
diameter of 3 to 4 in.,
furrowed by five ribs,
which are most prominent
Long White Bush Marrow. on the part next the stalk,

332

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

where the fruit is also narrowest ; skirt very smooth, of a dark

green, marbled with yellow or with paler green. All through
Italy, where this Gourd is very commonly grown, the
fruit is eaten quite young, when it is hardly the size
of a small Cucumber, sometimes even before the
flower has opened, when the ovary, which is scarcely
as long or as thick as the finger, is gathered for use.
The plants, which are thus deprived of their undeveloped
fruit, continue to flower for several months most
profusely, each producing a great number of young
Gourds, which, gathered in that state, are exceedingly
tender and delicately flavoured. This should be tried
in England, and the same excellent way of gathering
young adopted.

Geneva Bush Squash. — Stems not running ;
leaves long-stalked, of medium size and clear green
colour, rather deeply cut into elongated lobes which
are toothed at the edges ; fruit numerous, small, very
much flattened, 5 or 6 in. in diameter and 2 or 3 in.
in depth ; skin smooth, brownish green, turning orange
when ripe; flesh yellow; and not very thick. The

Italian Veget- frujt is eaten young, before it is fully grown, like the

able Marrow. Vegetable Marrow

Bush Nice Squash. — Probably a sub-variety of the Geneva

Bush Squash, which it closely resembles. It is much grown, under

the name of Cougourdon, by the gardeners of the Riviera for the

winter markets, i.e. December to March. It is grown in the open

ground, with some kind

of protection on the north

side, and is covered up

during the night. There

are two forms, one round,

resembling the Geneva

Squash, but flatter ; the

other long, and very like

the Vegetable Marrow.

The fruit is eaten when

scarcely one-third of its

full size. It is then dark

green. When ripe, the

skin is smooth and orange-
red, like the Geneva

Squash.

Early Bush, or

Summer Crook-neck, Squash. — This plant is not a climber or

trailer, but forms a tuft like the Custard Marrows. Leaves of a

Geneva Bush Squash.

PUMPKINS

333

clear green, large, toothed

at the edges, and more or

less divided into three or

five rather pointed lobes ;

fruit of a very bright orange

colour, elongated, covered

with numerous roundish

excrescences, narrowed and

most usually curved in the

part next the stalk, and

swollen at the other end,

which, however, always ter-
minates in a point. This

variety is less grown for

the table than for ornament,

like the Fancy Gourds. or Crook.neck s h u natural size)>

From the hardness of its

skin, the fruit is easily kept all through the winter, and never

loses the fine orange colour which is peculiar to it.

Large Tours Pump-
kin.— Stems creeping, 16
to 20 ft. long ; leaves very
large, dark green in colour
\ with a few gray blotches,
sometimes entire, but most
usually divided into three
or five lobes ; fruit round
or long, generally flattened
at both ends, with faintly
marked ribs, and a smooth
skin of a pale or gray-green
colour marked with deeper
bands and marblings. The
fruit often weighs from 90
to no Ib. Its flesh is
yellow, not very thick, and
of middling quality. The
seed is very large. Its
germinating power lasts
for only four or five years.
This variety is generally
grown for feeding cattle
only.

Custard Marrow. —
The Custard Marrows are

Large Tours Pumpkir. SOIHC of the most CUHOUS

334

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

varieties which have sprung from Cucurbita Pepo. They are not
climbing or creeping plants, and have large leaves, of a clear
green colour, entire, or with five faintly marked lobes. The fruit

is very much flattened, and
is much broader than long,
and the outline, instead of
being rounded, exhibits five
or six projections or blunt

Elector's-cap, or Custard, Marrow (\ natural size).

Ydlow Cugtard

teeth, which are either diverging from, or more or less curved
back towards the stalk end of the fruit. The fruit of all the
Custard Marrows is pretty solid, and the flesh is firm, not very
sweet, but rather floury ; the skin is very smooth, and variable in
colour and thickness. The seed is very small, compared with that

of the other varieties
of Cucurbita Pepo.

The following are
the most commonly
grown varieties : —

Yellow Custard
Marrow. — This seems
to be the original
variety or type of the
cultivated Custard
Marrows. The skin of
the fruit is a uniform
butter-yellow, and the
teeth or divisions of the
crown are very pro-
minent and curved back
in the direction of the
stalk.

Green Custard
Marrow. — Fruit (un-
ripe) dark green, nearly entirely so, or faintly marbled. The colour
is very deep at first, but turns yellow as the fruit ripens.

White Bush Scallop Custard Marrow.

PUMPKINS 335

Orange-coloured Custard Marrow. — Like the preceding kind
in shape, but of a far more vivid colour, resembling that of a ripe
Orange.

White Bush Scallop Custard Marrow.— A milky white
coloured variety with very large flat fruit.

Striped Custard Marrow.— Stems often running ; fruit rather
small, with faintly marked teeth, and very prettily variegated with
green and white.

White Flat Waited Custard Marrow. — Fruit with faintly
marked lobes or teeth ; skin creamy white, covered all over with
roundish warts.

All these varieties pro-
duce numbers of small fruit.
A strong plant may be
allowed to carry ten or
twelve.

Improved Variegated
Custard Marrow is dis-
tinguished from the pre-
ceding kinds by the much
greater size of its fruit, ___

which often weighs 7 or 8 Ib. ^ y ~ ^ed Custard

A plant Should not, as a Q natural size).

rule, be allowed to carry

more than three or four. In shape and colour the fruit resembles

that of the Common Variegated Custard Marrow.

Under the name of Pineapple Squash, Potato Squash, or
Congo Squash, a variety is grown in the United States which is
yellow in colour, and long conical in shape, and differs also from
our European varieties in being trailing.

FANCY GOURDS

French, Coloquintes. German, Kleine Zierkiirbisse. Dutch, Kawoerd appel.
Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese, Coloquintida.

The true Colocynth is an exclusively medicinal plant, and
seldom cultivated, and the name Colocynth is a misapplication
only sanctioned by usage, when it is employed to denote a large
number of varieties of Gourds with small fleshy fruit, the chief
merit of which consists in the elegance or singularity of their shape,
and the handsome colours which they exhibit when ripe. The
skin of these fruit usually becomes very hard, and the pulp in the
interior dries up rather quickly, in consequence of which they
keep much longer than most of the edible kinds. In habit of
growth the Fancy Gourds, or Colocynths, resemble the varieties of
Cucurbita Pepo. The stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit are generally

336

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of smaller size than those of any of the kinds hitherto described in
this volume, but the characteristics of all those parts, and also of
the calyx and flower-stalk, indicate the origin of the varieties
clearly enough; and yet the Custard Marrows, which all are
agreed to consider the undoubted offspring of Cucurbita Pepo,
may be said to form, by their small hard-skinned fruit, a true
connecting link between the Fancy Gourds and the edible kinds
described in the Vegetable Marrow section. The Fancy Gourds
have generally, if not always, long climbing or creeping stems,
and, on this account, are very often grown as ornamental plants on
trellises, arbours, etc. As they grow very rapidly, they are very
useful for quickly covering bare surfaces with verdure, and their
numerous and usually prettily variegated fruit are highly orna-
mental late in autumn and up to the first appearance of frosty
weather. The number of varieties is almost unlimited, and new
kinds are constantly being raised from seed. As it would be
impossible to enumerate them all here, we shall confine ourselves
to the description of the best established and most generally
cultivated kinds.

Pear Gourd. — One of the most common forms of Fancy
Gourds is the elongated shape, with a spherical or ovoid swelling

Pear Gourd.

Ringed Pear Gourd.

at the end farthest from the stalk. The varieties which have fruit
of this shape are known by the general name of Pear Gourds, and
differ more or less from one another in colour, as the White Pear
Gourd, the skin of which is smooth and entirely milk-white ; the
Striped Pear Gourd, which is dark green in colour, marked with
irregular longitudinal bands, or rows of spots, which are either
white or of a much paler green than the rest of the fruit ; the
Two-coloured Pear Gourd, one half of which is yellow, and the
other a uniform green ; the Ringed Pear Gourd, in which the green

FANCY GOURDS

337

colour, instead of covering half the fruit, only forms a ring round
it of greater or less width. These different variegations may also
be found combined with one another in various ways, as in some
two-coloured fruits which have the yellow part of a uniform tint,
while the green part is striped or banded with different colours.
All the varieties of Pear Gourds generally exhibit the following
characteristics : The plants are of medium size, the stems seldom
exceeding from 6J to about icj ft. in length. Leaves of moderate
size, dark green, nearly entire, with five roundish angles, or divided
into five faintly marked lobes.

Several varieties of Fancy Gourds have fruit almost spherical
in shape or slightly flattened at the ends, like an Apple or an
Orange. Of these the following are the most commonly grown
kinds : —

Early Apple Gourd.— Stems of moderate length, not exceeding
from 6^ to about 10 ft. ; leaves medium-sized, gray-green, cut into
five lobes with toothed edges ; fruit nearly spherical, flattened at
the ends, especially at the end farthest
from the stalk ; skin very smooth and
entirely white.

Orange Gourd.— The fruit of this
variety is similar in shape to that of
the preceding one, but of a fine orange
colour. Leaves large, divided into five
lobes more or less deeply cut, of a
dark green colour, and often slightly
crimped. The fruit exactly resembles
a ripe Orange in size and colour.

Miniature Gourd.— A small plant
with thin slender stems, seldom more
than about 6J ft. long. Leaves dull
green, with grayish blotches, some-
times nearly entire, but most usually-
divided into three (rarely into five)
round lobes ; fruit generally rather flat
at the ends, about 2 in. in diameter,
and variegated with pale green on a
darker green ground, almost like the Striped Pear Gourd.

White-striped Flat Fancy Gourd. — A vigorous-growing
variety, with stems 10 to 14 ft long. Leaves largish, divided into
five lobes, which generally terminate in rather sharp points ; fruit
very much flattened transversely, much broader than long, 2 or 3 in.
in diameter, and striped or marbled with various shades of green.
The peculiar shape and regular markings of this Gourd give it
quite a unique appearance, and would lead one to think, at first
sight, that it belonged to some species very different from

22

Miniature Gourd.

33*

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Cucurbita Pepo. There are, in fact, some small kinds of wild
Melons to which it bears a striking resemblance.

Egg Gourd. — A vigorous-growing plant, with stems often 13 ft.
long. Leaves large, of a rather dark green colour, entire, five-
angled, or divided into five faintly marked lobes. Fruit entirely
white, and of the shape and size of a hen's egg.

Warty-skinned Fancy Gourd.— Stems rather thick, but not
very long, seldom exceeding about 6J ft. in length ; leaves of a clear
green colour, shining, slightly crimped, entire, rounded, or divided
into three lobes faintly toothed on the edges ; fruit usually
spherical, and having the skin entirely covered with numerous
round excrescences, of variable colour, sometimes green, but most
usually white or orange. The stems of this variety, instead of

White-striped Flat Fancy Gourd (TV natural
size ; detached fruit, \ natural size).

Warty Fancy Gourd (TV natural
size).

being slender and pliable like those of the other kinds of Fancy
Gourds, are stiff and stout, as if the plant had a tendency to grow
without any support. The plant does not branch much.

BOTTLE GOURDS

Lagenaria vulgaris, Ser. ; Cucurbita Lagenaria, L. Cucurbitacece.

Courge bouteille.

Native of South America. — Annual. — Like the Fancy Gourds,
or small varieties of Cucurbita Pepo, the different varieties of
Lagenaria vulgaris are much more grown for ornament than for
any use that is made of them. The Common Bottle Gourd, the
double swollen fruit of which is familiar to most people, is almost
the only kind that is turned to any account in the way of practical
utility, its dried fruit, when the flesh is removed, forming an excellent
substitute for bottles and other vessels. The very rapid growth of
this plant, the abundance and beauty of its large white flowers, and

BOTTLE GOURDS 339

the shape and extraordinary dimensions of the fruit of some of its
forms, render it a valuable ornamental climbing plant. As it is
easily grown, it appears to be cultivated in every part of the world
where the climate is warm or temperate. From an early period it
has been grown by the Chinese and the Japanese, who possess
some varieties of it differing somewhat from those grown in Europe.
CULTURE. — The Lagenarias are annual plants vegetating very
rapidly, and their culture is exceedingly simple. The seed is sown,
where the plants are to stand, in May, or plants previously raised
in hot-beds or frames may be planted out in the open ground that
month. These, of course, will bear sooner than the others. The
plants like good, rich, well-manured soil, and plentiful waterings,
although not absolutely necessary, will help to increase the size and

Club Gourd. Siphon Gourd (^ natural size).

beauty of the fruit. No variety of Bottle Gourd ripens its fruit
regularly in the climate of Paris.

USES. — The young fruit is eaten in some countries like the
Vegetable Marrow, but is not very desirable for table use, and the plant
should be regarded as purely ornamental. Its rapid growth renders
it valuable for quickly covering trellises, arbours, trunks of trees,
dead walls, and other bare places. The leaves and all the green
parts of the plant, when bruised, give out a very strong and
disagreeable odour, but the flowers, on the contrary, are scented
almost like Jasmine.

Club Gourd. — Fruit very long, sometimes over 3^ ft. in length,
almost cylindrical, but only about half as thick in the half next the
stalk as it is in the other half. Sometimes the extremity is greatly
swollen. All the forms of this plant, however, are extremely
variable, and as changeable as the whims of amateurs.

Siphon Gourd. — The fruit of this variety is swollen at the
extremity into a spherical or slightly flattened enlargement, 8 to

340

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

12 in. broad, and about one-third less in depth ; the rest of the fruit
forms a long thin neck, which is curved into a semicircle in the part
next the stalk. When growing, the fruit should rest on the ground

Common Bottle Gourd (j^ natural size).

Miniature Bottle Gourd.

or some other support, otherwise the neck will be broken by the
weight of the enlarged lower part.

Common Bottle Gourd.— Fruit contracted about the middle,
and presenting two unequal divisions, of which the lower one is
larger and broader than the other, and sometimes flattened at the
base, so as to allow the fruit to rest firmly upon it ; the upper
division, next the stalk, is almost spherical. There is a certain
number of forms of this variety, all of which bear fruit of nearly the

Powder-horn Gourd.

Flat Corsican Gourd.

same shape, but of extremely variable dimensions, some of them
being nearly 20 in. long and capable of containing at least two
gallons, while others are seldom more than 5 or 6 in. in length,

BOTTLE GOURDS 341

with a capacity of less than a pint, and they are found of all sizes
between these extremes.

Miniature Bottle Gourd. — A small form of the preceding, with
very handsome fruit about 3 or 4 in. long. A very prolific variety,
each plant producing as many as fifty fruit.

Powder-horn Gourd. — Fruit of a more or less long pear-
shape, with a well-marked neck, and variable in size. They can be
applied to the same kind of purposes as the fruit of the preceding
kind, and are used as powder-horns in some country places.

Flat Corsican Gourd. — A remarkably distinct variety, with
rounded flat fruit, rather like that of the Yokohama Gourd in
shape, but quite smooth and without ribs. It is from 6 to 8 in.
in diameter and 3 or 4 in. thick.

WAX GOURD

Benincasa cerifera, Savi. Cucurbitacece. Courge d la cire.

Native of India and China. — Annual. — A creeping plant, which
spreads on the ground like a Cucumber-plant, with slender sharply
five-angled stems from 5 to 6J ft. in length. Leaves large, slightly
hairy, rounded, heart-shaped, and sometimes with three or five
faintly marked lobes ; flowers axillary, yellow, with five divisions,
which extend almost to the base of the corolla, broadly cup-shaped,
and 2 in. or more in diameter ; calyx reflexed, rather large, and
often petaloid. Fruit oblong, cylindrical, very hairy up to about
the time of ripening, when it attains a length of from 14 to 16 in.,
with a diameter of 4 or 5 in. It is then covered with a white
bloom, like that which is seen on Plums, but much whiter and more
abundant, and constituting a true vegetable wax. Seeds flat,
gray, truncate. Their germinating power lasts for ten years. Its
culture is similar to that of other kinds of Gourds. The fruit is
eaten like that of other Gourds. The flesh of it is extremely light,
slightly floury, and intermediate between that of a Gourd and a
Cucumber. The fruit will keep pretty far into the winter.

HOP

Humulus Lupiilus, L. Urticacea.

French, Houblon. German, Hopfen. Flemish, Hop. Italian, Luppolo. Spanish, Lupulo.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This is not, properly speaking, a
kitchen-garden plant, but as, in some countries, the young shoots
are often used as table vegetables, we think it should be noticed in
this book. When the plants commence to shoot in spring, most of
the shoots are pinched off, so as to leave only two or three of the
strongest to each plant. The shoots thus removed are used as
vegetables. In Belgium the young shoots are much used as a
table vegetable, prepared in the same way as Asparagus or Salsafy.

342

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

HOREHOUND
Marrubium vulgare, L. Labiates.

French, Marrube blanc. German, Andorn. Italian, Marrubio.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A common roadside plant, often
growing on slopes with a southern aspect. Stems numerous, erect,

entirely covered with a
white down ; leaves almost
square, with roundish
angles, toothed and netted,
and of a gray -green
colour ; flowers white, in
compact rounded whorls,
growing in numerous tiers
to the top of the stem ;
seed small, oblong, brown,

*!i ^WS^S^i^^S^ p°inted at one end and

<*&> ^HPl^^^^^^ rounded at the other,

compressed, and with two
or three faces. Its ger-
minating power lasts for
three years. The seed is
sown, where the plants
are to stand, in spring ;

Horehound. or tne7 ma7 be propa-

gated by division of the

tufts at the same time. The plants are perfectly hardy and require
no attention while growing. The leaves are used for seasoning, or
as a popular cough remedy.

HORSE-RADISH

Cochlearia Armoracia, L. Crudfercst

French, Raifort sauvage, Cran. German, Meerettig, Kran. Flemish, Kapucienen mostaard.
Dutch, Peperwortel. Danish, Peberrod. Italian, Rafano. Spanish, Taramago.
Portuguese, Rabao de cavalho.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Root cylindrical, very long,
penetrating deeply into the ground, with a slightly wrinkled
yellow-white skin ; flesh white, somewhat fibrous, very hot to the
taste, something like mustard ; radical leaves long stalked, oblong
oval, about 16 in. long and 5 or 6 in. broad, toothed, light green in
colour, and shining. The first leaves, which make their appearance
immediately after winter, are reduced to mere nerves and resemble
a small comb. As the season advances, the blade of the leaf

HORSE-RADISH

343

becomes developed and assumes its ordinary size and appearance.
Flower-stems 20 in. to 2 ft. high, branching at the top, and smooth ;
flowers white, small, in long clusters ; seed-
vessels small, rounded, and almost always
barren.

CULTURE.— The plant delights especially
in good, deep, moist soil. It is propagated
from pieces of the root, which are planted,
immediately after winter, in rows 20 in. to
2 ft. apart, and with a distance of about
10 in. from piece to piece in the rows.
The ground should be very deeply dug
and well manured before planting. The
better the soil is prepared, the more
abundant will be the produce and the better
the quality of the roots. They may be
used in the autumn succeeding the spring
in which they are planted, but the yield
will be greater if they are left undisturbed
for another year. It is a good plan to Horse-radish (* natural size)
renew the plantation, at least partially,

every year; but in many gardens people do not trouble them-
selves about the Horse-radish, except to gather the roots, the
fragments which remain in the ground sufficing to keep up the
supply for an indefinite period ; the results, however, are more
satisfactory when the plants receive some attention.

CULTURE.- — A correspondent of
the Garden gave the following
method of growing Horse-radish, by
which he claimed to have produced
in ten months sticks that measured
from 5 to 8 in. in circumference : —
" During February, take small
straight pieces of the roots about the
size of, or somewhat smaller than,
the little ringer ; from these remove
all the side-shoots and roots, and
form them into straight sets from
8 to 14 in. long. Prepare a piece
of ground by deeply digging and
well manuring it, and plant the sets
in it in rows 3 ft. apart and from
12 to 1 8 in. in the rows. The sets
must be planted in a slanting posi-
tion, and must not be more than
2 in. beneath the surface. The
ground at all times must be kept

free from weeds, and should be well
watered in very dry weather. Plant-
ing the set at an angle — in fact, in
nearly a horizontal position — is, no
doubt, the great secret of success :
for, being placed so near the sur-
face, it has the full benefit of the
sun's heat, which causes it to make
rapid growth long before that which
is planted according to the old
method — i.e. from 1 8 to 20 in. deep,
and in a perpendicular position —
reaches the surface. I am certain
that want of success is to be attri-
buted to this alone, and that the
experience of any of your readers
who may think fit to adopt my plan
will be the same as my own." Mr.
Bradley, of Preston Hall, grows his
Horse-radish by sinking a common
round drain-tile 2 in. in the grounds

344

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

filling the tile with fine earth, and
planting a set near the top of the
tile and 10 in. above the surface.
He says it is an admirable plan ;
digging for the root is saved, and a
fine clean stem is the result. Mr. R.
Gilbert says that by placing leaves
or litter on the tops of Horse-radish
crowns 2 ft. or so thick, the plants
grow through them in the course of
the summer, making small white
roots the thickness of one's finger,
which are as tender as spring
Radishes, and a great improvement
on the stringy stuff often supplied
with our roast beef. For winter use a
supply of Horse-radish should always
be at hand, stored away in sheds^
and covered with dry soil or sand,
in the same way as Carrots, etc.

Horse-radish is not grown to a
very great extent in London market-

gardens ; but where it is found in
them it is always in deep, rich, open
soil. Crowns such as are not market-
able are planted deeply in trenches
2 ft. apart ; the plants stand i ft.
asunder in the row. Manure is then
applied on and about the crowns,
which lie in a slanting position in
the bottom of the trench, and they
are at first not deeply buried. Early
in spring, after they have started
fairly into growth, the ridges be-
tween the trenches are levelled down
lightly, and a crop of Radishes is
sown on the surface, the latter being-
off in May; and by the time the
Horse-radish appears in full row, the
Radishes are cleared off the ground,
which is hoed and afterwards kept
clean. Covent Garden is, however,
now chiefly supplied with Horse-
radish from Holland.

The root is grated or scraped and used as a condiment, like
mustard.

HYSSOP

Hyssopus officinalis, L. Labiates.

French, Hyssope. German, Isop. Flemish and Dutch, Hijsoop. Danish, Isop.
Italian, Issopo. Spanish, Hisopo.

Native of Southern Europe.— Perennial. — An evergreen under-
shrub with oblong-lanceolate leaves. Flowers usually blue, some-
times white or pink, in whorled spikes ; seeds small, brown, shining,

oval three-angled, with a small white
hilum placed near the point. Their
germinating power lasts for three years.
All the parts of this plant, especially
the leaves, have a very aromatic odour
and a rather hot and bitter taste. The
Hyssop prefers rather warm, calcareous
soil. It withstands ordinary winters
in England and Northern France, and
is generally propagated by division of
the tufts, which readily take root. It
may also be raised from seed, as it
usually is in cold climates. The seed
is sown in the open ground, in April,
Hyssop GV natural size). and the seecjlings are planted out in

HYSSOP

345

July, most commonly as an edging to beds of other plants. It
is advisable to renew the plantation every three or four years.
The leaves and the ends of the branches are used as a condiment,
especially in the countries of the North.

ICE-PLANT

Mesembryanthemum crystallinum, L. Ficoidece*

French, Ficolde glaciale. German, Eiskraut. Flemish and Dutch^ Ijsplant. Italian,
Erba diacciola. Spanish, Escarchosa.

Native of Greece or the Cape of Good Hope. — Perennial, but
grown in gardens as an annual. — A spreading, round-stemmed
plant. Blade of the leaf
widened towards the ex-
tremity, and contracted
towards the stalk; flowers
whitish, small, with a
swollen calyx, which is
covered, as are all the
green parts of the plant,
with small, very trans-
parent, membranous
bladders, which give the
plant the appearance of
being covered with frozen
dew ; seeds very small,
black, and shining.
Their germinating power
lasts for five years. The
culture is exceedingly
easy. The seed is sown
like Spinach seed, and
the plants bear hot and dry weather admirably. This quality and
the thickness and slightly acid flavour of the fleshy part of the
leaves have caused it to be used as a fresh table vegetable for
summer use in warm, dry countries. However, it is rather a plant
to be grown as a curiosity in the gardens of amateurs, and it is
also not without merit as an ornamental plant. The leaves are
eaten minced and boiled.

Ice-plant ($ natural size).

LAVENDERS

There are two small undershrubs used for perfumery purposes,
and sometimes grown in our gardens, belonging to the genus
Lavandula. Both-=are natives of Southern Europe, and exhale a
delicate, penetrating fragrance.

346

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

True Lavender.

True Lavender (Lavandula vera, D.C. ; L. angustifolia,

Moench. ; L. spica a L. ; Labiates]. — Native of Southern Europe. —

Perennial. — A dwarf shrub,
not exceeding from 2 to about
2j ft. in height. Stems very
numerous, forming compact
tufts or clumps ; leaves linear,
gray ; flower-stems slender,
square, bare, with the excep-
tion of one pair of opposite
leaves ; flowers violet-blue, in
a short terminal spike ; seed
brown, shining, oblong, with
a well-marked white spot at
one end, denoting its point
of attachment to the bottom
of the calyx. Its germinating
power lasts for five years.

CULTURE.— The Lavender-
plant delights especially in

light and rather calcareous soil. It is generally grown as an

edging to beds of other plants, and is propagated by division of

the clumps, or from cuttings, rarely from seed. A plantation

should be remade every

three or four years.

Common Lavender

(Lavandula spica, D.C. ;

L. spica fi L. ; L. latifolia,

Vill.). — More spreading

in habit than the True

Lavender and less shrubby,

differing from it also by

its larger leaves, which

standout more horizontally

and are slender in com-
parison with their size.

The flower-stems are less

numerous, more vigorous,

less erect, and bear more

developed branchlets than

the True Lavender ; the

flowers are also smaller

and the fragrance not so Common Lavender

delicate, for which reason

the perfume distilled from this plant has only half the value of

that obtained from the True variety. In Provence the two plants

LAVENDERS

347

grow wild on calcareous soils ; the Common Lavender is found
on the plains and lower edges of the hills, whilst the True Lavender
is never met with at a lower elevation than 656 ft. above the
sea-level. The leaves are sometimes used for seasoning, but
the plant is chiefly grown for its flowers, which are used in the
manufacture of perfumery.

In Surrey hundreds of acres of
land are devoted to its culture, and
almost as large a space may be
found under Lavender in Hertford-
shire. At Mitcham both cottagers
and market-gardeners grow Laven-
der for sale, and when the fields of
it are in bloom its fragrance per-
vades the air for miles. Lavender
is increased by means of rooted
slips, obtained by division of the
old roots. The young plants are
put out in March or April, 18 in.
apart, in rows half that distance
asunder, the space between the
rows being the first year planted
with Lettuce, Parsley, or some similar
crop. When the Lavender becomes
crowded, each alternate row and
plant are lifted and transplanted to
another field to form a new planta-
tion. The remaining plants then
stand 3 ft. apart each way, and in-

tercropping is discontinued. During
the first two or three weeks in
August the flowers are harvested.
The stalks are cut off with a sickle,
bound up in sheaves similar to Wheat,
and carried to the homestead for
distillation or for other purposes. In
Hertfordshire a somewhat different
method is practised. The young
plants are put out in November, 3 ft.
apart each way, no other crop being
grown between them, and the ground
is well tilled and attended to. When
three years old, the plants are con-
sidered at their best, and after they
have been planted seven years they
are dug up and the ground is re-
planted. A new plantation is, how-
ever, made every year or so, and
thus there are always young, vigor-
ous plants upon which dependence
for a crop of flowers can be fully
placed.

LEAF-BEET, or SWISS CHARD BEET
Beta vulgaris, L. Chenopodia&a*

French^ Poiree. German, Beisskohl, Mangold, Beete. Flemish and Dutch, Snij beet,
Warmoes. Danish, Blad bede. Italian, Bieta. Spanish, Bleda. Portuguese, Acelga.

Native of Southern Europe. — Biennial. — This appears to be
exactly the same plant as the Beet-root, except that in its case
cultivation has developed the leaves instead of the root. The
botanical characteristics, especially those of the flowers and the
fructification, are precisely alike in both plants. The root of the
Leaf-beet is branched and not very fleshy, while the leaves are
large and numerous, and, in some varieties, have the stalk and
midrib developed to a remarkable extent. The seed resembles
that of the Beet-root, but is usually somewhat smaller. Its
germinating power lasts for six years or more.

CULTURE. — The Leaf-beet is grown in precisely the same way
as the Beet-root, except that the soil need not be so deeply dug.

348

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The seed is sown in April or May, in drills 16 to 20 in. apart.
The seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 14 to 16 in. from
plant to plant, and after that require no further attention beyond
occasional waterings. At the close of the summer, the leaves of
the Chard varieties may commence to be gathered, the best-grown
leaves only being then selected. The leaves of the Common
White Leaf-beet, or Spinach Beet, may be cut for use even earlier.
The varieties of Leaf-beet are pretty hardy, and will continue to
yield, in the open ground, until late in the season, but in order to
be sure of having a supply all through the winter, it is advisable
to remove a sufficient number of plants to a vegetable-house, where
they are treated in the same way as Cardoons or Turnip-rooted
Celery.

USES. — The leaves of the Silver Leaf-beet, or Spinach Beet,
are used, minced and boiled, like Spinach leaves. They are also

often mixed with Sorrel,
to lessen its acidity. In
the Chard varieties, be-
sides the green part or
blade of the leaf, the
stalk and midrib are also
eaten. These are very
broad, tender, and fleshy,
and have a very agree-
able and quite peculiar
flavour.

White Leaf-beet, or
Spinach Beet. — The
leaves of this variety are
very numerous, broad,
slightly undulated, and
of a very light or yellow-
green colour. The leaf-
stalks are somewhat larger than those of the Beet-root, and are
of a paler colour than the blade of the leaf. This kind is chiefly
grown in the eastern districts of France, where it is highly esteemed
as a fresh vegetable for table use in summer and autumn, the
leaves being boiled and minced like Spinach. They are also
mixed with Sorrel, as mentioned above.

Sea-kale Beet, or Swiss Chard. — Leaves broad, short, and
stiff, of a rather dark green colour, spreading rather than erect,
with very white stalks, from about i£ to i| in. broad, and con-
tinued into a midrib which is equally white, and narrows rather
abruptly. This variety is hardy, and is chiefly grown in the
countries of the North. It may be considered a drawback that
the chards or midribs it produces have almost always an earthy

White Leaf-beet (TV natural size).

LEAF-BEET, OR SWISS CHARD BEET 349

Silvery Sea-kale Beet (^ natural size).

flavour, and in this variety these are the only parts of the plant

that are used.

Silvery Sea-kale Beet, or Silvery Swiss Chard.— A very fine

and good kind, with large broad

leaves, which are very much

undulated, half-erect, and re-
markable for the size of their

stalks and midribs, which are

often 4 in. broad or more. This

variety is not quite so hardy

as the preceding kind, but it

is much more productive, and

the chards are of far better

quality, being quite free from

any trace of earthy flavour,'

and having a very delicate,

slightly acid taste. Moreover,

the blade of the leaf may

also be used, like that of the

Common Spinach Beet. In

these plants a light and pale

colour in the leaves appears to be accompanied by a mild flavour,

while leaves of a dark green colour have always a strong acrid

taste. There are few vegetables which require less care during

their growth or yield a more certain crop than this variety of

Chard-beet. Well-grown chards may be gathered from it in

July, and the plants will continue to bear all through the

summer and autumn, and
even far into winter, if the
precaution is taken of re-
moving them to a vegetable-
house. In France this
excellent vegetable is hardly
used, except in some of the
departments of the north
and east.

White Curled Swiss
Chard. — This is almost as
vigorous and productive a
variety as the preceding one,
__ with leaves equally white

^r but crimped and curled in

White Curled Swiss Chard (TV natural size).

a remarkable manner. The
chards and stalks are not

so broad as those of the preceding kind, but they are of quite

as good quality.

350

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Chilian Beet, or Red-stalked Swiss Chard. — A very large
kind, with long, stiff, almost erect leaf-stalks, 2 or 3 in. broad.

Leaves rather large, un-
dulated, almost curled,
of a dark green colour
with a metallic lustre, and
2 to 2\ ft. long, including
the stalk. This variety
is much less grown as a
table vegetable than as an
ornamental plant. There
are two forms of it — one
with bright red, and the
other with deep yellow
leaf-stalks.

LEEK

A Ilium Porrum, L.
Liliacecz.

French, Poireau. German, Lauch,
Porree. Flemish and Dutch,
Prei. Danish, Porre. Italian,
Porro. Spanish, Puerto. Por-
tuguese, Alho porro.

Said to be a native of
Switzerland. — Biennial. —
Notwithstanding the different names given by botanists to the two
plants, the Leek and the Great-headed Garlic are probably identical,
the only difference between them being that, in the case of the
latter, cultivation has developed the production of cloves, while
with the former the object has been to develop the leaves in such a
manner that they may both be numerous and cover one another at
the base for the greatest distance possible. In the Leek, as in the
Onion, during the first year the stem is reduced to a simple plate
or very flat cone, from the under-side of which the roots issue,
while the leaves spring from the upper part, sheathing one another
at the base, and then forming a long blade, which is usually folded
longitudinally and narrowed to a point. These leaves, of greater
or less length and breadth, according to the variety, are arranged
in two opposite rows, so that they spread one above another on
both sides evenly from the central axis, in a kind of fan-shape.
The flower-stem, which does not appear before the second year,
rises from the centre of the leaves, dividing the fan into two equal
parts. It is smooth, solid, of nearly the same thickness throughout
its entire length, and not swollen like that of the Onion. The
flowers, which are white, pink, or lilac, form a large, almost spherical,

Chilian Beet.

LEEK 351

simple cluster on the top of the stem, and are succeeded by three-
valved, roundish three-angled seed-vessels, which are filled with
black, flat, wrinkled seeds, very like Onion seeds. Their germi-
nating power usually lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — The Leek is a true biennial ; that is, it requires
nearly a whole year to grow before it prepares to flower and ripen
its seeds, which it does in the course of the following year. The
seed is usually sown in March in a seed-bed. In May or early in
June, when the plants (which should have been previously thinned
if sown too thick, and watered when necessary) are about as thick
as a good-sized goose-quill, they are planted out in good, moist,
rich soil, which should have been prepared beforehand by being
manured with well-rotted stable manure, if possible. It is best to
plant in moist, cloudy weather, or else to moisten the soil well a
few days before. The plants are generally set in drills or rows,
1 6 to 20 in. apart, and with a distance of 10 to 12 in. from plant to
plant in the drills. They should not be planted deeper than they
were growing in the seed-bed, but soil should be laid on to cover
the stalks, so as to blanch them for as great a portion of their
length as possible. Another mode of planting is to make small
circular holes in the rows, about 4 in. wide and the same in depth,
in each of which a young plant is set, the holes being afterwards
gradually filled up by rain and watering washing into them the
soil which was taken out in making them and left beside them.
Leeks planted out in May will commence to be fit for use about
September, or they may be had earlier by sowing in February and
planting out in the latter end of April. Some market-gardeners
about Paris are able to send them to market in July, by sowing in
a hot-bed in December. If the supply is required to be continued
through the winter or until spring, when full-grown plants are
preparing to run to seed, late sowings should be made in the latter
end of April or May, and the plants should not be planted out
before August.

Large quantities of Leeks are opportunities. If severe weather
grown in the valley of the Thames, sets in, the sashes are covered with
where the soil is moist. The first litter or mats. On fine days plenty
sowing is made towards the end of of water is supplied to the plants,
January in a frame set on a gentle and the soil is kept frequently
hot-bed, on which has been placed a stirred. If the seedlings are too
few inches of light, rich soil. The thick, they are thinned out to i in.
seed is sown rather thickly and or so apart, and those that remain
afterwards slightly covered with fine are gradually hardened off until to-
soil. The sashes are then kept close wards the end of March, when they
until the young plants appear, when are carefully lifted and planted out-
abundance of air is admitted both of-doors in rows about i ft. apart,
night and day on all favourable the plants in the row being about

352

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

6 in. asunder. Between the rows
Lettuces are planted, and these,
being of quick growth, are removed
long before they can in any way
injure the Leeks. The next sowing,
which takes place about the end of
February, is made out-of-doors in
beds, and when large enough the
plants are put out, in a similar man-
ner to the former sowing, in heavily
manured, deeply dug soil. Another
sowing is made six or eight weeks
later, and the last one generally
about the first week in May. In all
cases drills are drawn to a depth of
4 or 5 in., in which the plants
are put. These in some measure
protect the plants in the early stages
of their growth, and serve as re-
ceptacles for water. The frequent
hoeing of the ground, which is con-
sidered a very important matter, fills
in the drills and blanches the necks
of the Leeks — one of the main things
to be considered in their culture.
During dry weather abundance of
water is applied, and some growers,
after taking a crop of Lettuce from
between the rows, heavily mulch the
ground with manure. The produce
from the first sowing is ready for
market by the beginning of August,
when it is quickly removed and the
vacant ground cropped with other
vegetables. The latest sowing keeps
up a constant supply of Leeks far
into the winter, when they are most
in request. The fine qualities of
this vegetable are much better
known to the Welsh, Scotch, and
French than to the English or Irish.
A good mode of growing fine
Leeks is to form trenches for them
in the same way as for Celery,
though not so wide — 9 or 12 in.
being quite sufficient. Fill each
trench at the bottom with about
6 in. of well-rotted, rich, light
manure ; surface this with a few
inches of soil, and leave the top from

6 to 12 in. deep. Plant the Leeks
out of the seed drills or beds
into the trench in dull, showery
weather, taking care to preserve all
their roots. This will' be found a
most convenient method to allow of
the easy application of water and
manure ; see that the plants are
kept clear of weeds. As they ad-
vance in growth fill in the earth a
little at a time ; this will refresh
and stimulate the plants. By the
end of the season the trench will be
level with the surface or probably
converted into a slight ridge on
either side of the Leeks, which will
be from 12 to 18 in. long, tho-
roughly blanched, and of the finest
quality. Leeks are sometimes planted
with a dibble in newly dug, highly
manured ground in the same way
as Cauliflowers or Cabbage-plants,
and simply left to shift for them-
selves.

Another method of planting is
that adopted for setting Potatoes
with spade and line. The ground
is dug and manured in the autumn,
and again dug early in April.
When i ft. or more is dug, set the
line against the work and cut it
down straight with the spade ; then
plant the Leeks carefully against the
straight cut along the face of the
dug ground, spreading out the roots
and covering them with some of the
fine soil already cut down ; dig
another foot of ground — taking care
not to bury the Leeks too deeply —
and proceed to plant another row,
and so on until all are completed ;
by this mode the plants will have a
fresh, soft, untrodden root-run in
which to start, and often thrive re-
markably well. The subsequent
management consists in merely keep-
ing the surface clear of weeds, and
in copiously watering should the
weather prove dry. This style of
planting is termed " digging in."

LEEK 353

USES. — The blanched lower part of the leaves, improperly
called the stem of the plant, is extensively used in culinary
preparations. In the south of England and in Ireland, the great
value of this vegetable is little known except to good cooks ; it is
not always to be had in the best condition in these parts.

Long Paris Winter Leek. — This kind is very distinct from
all others. Its leaves are consolidated for a considerable portion
of their length, and, in the free part, are longer and narrower than
those of any other variety ; they are also of a paler and grayer
green. The lower part of the leaves, where they overlap one

Long Paris Winter Leek (& natural size).

another, and which is generally termed the stalk, measures, in well-
grown plants, about 12 in. long and about I in. in diameter. This
variety withstands the winter well, and is particularly suitable for
planting out late in autumn. It is the only kind which produces
those fine, very long, slender Leeks, which are seen in long bundles
in the Central Market at Paris ; at the same time, it is true that
the market-gardeners help Nature a little by earthing up the
plants while they are growing.

Long Mezi&res Leek.— An excellent variety; the stem is thick,
8 to 10 in. long, or longer, and very white; the leaves green,
narrow, and erect. Lately it has been largely grown around Paris.

23

354

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

It is a true winter Leek, and from September onwards large
quantities of it are sent to the Paris market

Long Mezieres Leek.

Bulgarian Leek. — A very distinct kind, with a thick and high
stem. It is a quick grower, and therefore a good summer Leek.
The leaves are stiff, pointed, erect, and uniform dark green.
Unfortunately it easily suffers from cold.

LEEK

355

Broad, or London, Flag Leek. —This kind should rather be
called the Long Flag Leek, as it has a very long as well as broad
stem. It is often, in fact, 10 in. long, with a diameter of nearly
2 in. The leaves are large, pliant, often drooping backwards,
rather variable in colour, but commonly of a rather dark green.
It is a very fine, good, rather early, and very productive variety,
but not very hardy. In the climate of Paris it can only be used

•',£5*

Broad, or London, Flag Leek.

for an autumn crop, as it is unable to bear any winter that is
not exceptionally mild.

Large Yellow Poitou Leek.— This variety, as its name indi-
cates, originated in the west of France, and the climate of its
birthplace seems to have influenced its constitution to the extent
of rendering it rather too delicate to endure a Paris winter always
without injury. It is, probably, a local variety of the Broad
Southern Leek, but it differs from it very plainly in several
characteristics. The stem is shorter, but quite as thick, at least,
being often 2 in. or more in diameter, and from 8 to 10 in. long.
The leaves are larger and more fan-like in their arrangement ; they
are also longer and softer, and often have nearly one-half pendent

356

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

so as sometimes to reach the ground. The colour, too, is very
distinct, being a light, almost yellow green, totally different from
the glaucous or gray tint of the leaves of almost all other kinds
of Leek. As before observed, this is not a very hardy variety, but
it is early and swells rapidly, which renders it very suitable for an
autumn crop.

Large Rouen Leek. — Stem short, very thick, seldom exceeding
6 to 8 in. in length, with a diameter of 2 in. or more, and growing

Large Yellow Poitou Leek (£ natural size).

almost entirely covered by the soil ; leaves commencing to
separate, fan shape, almost at the level of the ground, numerous,
closely overlapping one another, folded into a spout shape,
stiff, of moderate length, and usually pendent at the extremity.
The blade of the leaf is broad and dark green, with a gray
or glaucous tinge. This is a very fine and productive variety,
equally good for a winter as for an autum crop, swelling less
rapidly than the preceding kind, but, on the other hand, very
slow in running to seed, and therefore yielding a more prolonged
supply for table use.

LEEK

357

Giant Carentan Leek.— The characteristics of this variety are
nearly the same as those of the preceding one, of which it is, very
probably, only an improved form, but a very distinct one, on
account of its much greater size, and the very dark colour of its
leaves. The length of the stem, in this kind, seldom exceeds
6 to 8 in., but it is often 3 in. or more in diameter in well-grown
plants, and we have not infrequently seen it of still larger dimen-
sions. Like the Rouen Leek, it is very hardy, and is not affected
by Parisian winters.

Flanders Winter Leek.— A very hardy variety, proof against

Large Rouen Leek (£ natural size).

drought as well as the severest^ frosts. The stem is short, not very
thick ; the leaves gray-green,* narrow, folded over, and pendent.
Its defect is producing suckers.

Perpetual Leek. — More curious than useful, producing an
abundance of suckers which form large tufts of numerous thin
shoots, not exceeding the thickness of the finger. Its merit
is that it is very slow to run to seed, and thus such usefulness
as it may have lasts for a longer time.

In addition to the foregoing, we may mention the following
varieties : —

Brabant Short Broad Leek. — This is indeed a very short
and very hardy kind, but of small size, the diameter of the stem

358

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

seldom exceeding about i in. In its general appearance as to the
colour and arrangement of the leaves, it is somewhat like the Rouen
Leek, but much smaller.

The Lion Leek. — This is often grown in England. It is
rather variable ; we have known it to resemble the Rouen Leek,
with a thicker bulb ; more often its appearance is that of a broad
flag Leek, with a long white stem and light green leaves.

Musselburgh, or Scotch Flag, Leek. — An improved form
of the Common Long Winter Leek (raised near Edinburgh),

Perpetual Leek.

with a longer and thicker stem and broad leaves. It comes
very near the Giant Carentan Leek. The Ayton Castle New
Giant (Henry's Prize Giant) Leek is also a very superior large
variety.

Small Mountain Leek. — A half-wild kind, grown in the
southern and central districts of France. It has narrow leaves,
which are folded longitudinally and of a dark glaucous green
colour, and a very short and small stem, which frequently sends
up shoots or suckers. Its only merit is that it is a very
hardy kind.

LENTILS

359

LENTILS

Ervum Lens, L. ; Lens esculenta, Mcench. Leguminoscz.

French, Lentille. German, Linse. Flemish and Dutch, Linze. Danish, Lindse. Italian,
Lente. Spanish, Lenteja. Portuguese, Lentilha.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — A small and very
branching plant, forming a tuft 14 to 16 in. high. Stems slender
and angular ; leaves winged, composed of a great number of small
oval leaflets, light green in colour, and terminating in a simple
tendril ; flower axillary, small, white, produced in pairs, and suc-
ceeded by very flat pods, each of which usually contains two very
flat seeds, which are rounded in outline and convex on both sides.
The germinating power of these seeds lasts for four years. The
seed is generally sown in drills or lines in March. The plant
usually prefers light soil ; at least,
it seeds most plentifully when
grown in soil of that description.
It requires no attention until the
seeds are gathered in August or
September. These keep better
in the pods than they do after
they are threshed, so the crop is
only threshed out as a supply
is required. The seeds are eaten
like Haricot Beans, and of late
years their use has been very
much more frequent in England.
It is excellent for soups and
stews, and a capital addition to
our food supplies.

Large Yellow Lentil. — Plant
of rather small size, but very
branching, and of rather pale
green colour ; seed very broad,
flat, and pale. This is the most
commonly cultivated variety, and
is grown extensively in the eastern and central districts of
France, and also in Germany.

Like the Pea, the Lentil is often attacked by a small beetle or
weevil, the grubs of which feed on the seed, in which they remain
until they change into the form of a perfect insect ; and it is pro-
bably owing to the ravages of these insects that the cultivation
of Lentils has greatly fallen off in the northern districts of France.

The two commercial names of Lorraine and Gallardon Lentils
merely indicate the districts from which the seeds are supplied, but
both refer to the same Large Yellow Lentil, just described.

Large Yellow Lentil (^ natural size ;
detached branch, natural size).

360 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

.. Puy Green Lentil. — A very distinct kind, with small seed,
which is only about J in. in diameter, but very thick, and pale
green, spotted and marbled with dark green. This variety is
almost exclusively grown in the departments of Haute-Loire and
Cantal, where it is highly esteemed both for table use and as green
fodder for cattle.

Small Winter Lentil. — This variety is chiefly grown in the
northern and eastern districts of France, and is sown in autumn,
either among corn or, more commonly, by itself. It is seldom used
as fodder for cattle, as the seed is highly esteemed for table use,
many persons preferring it to that of the Large Yellow kind. It is
small in size, thick, and of a rather deep reddish colour, which
distinguishes it at first sight.

Small March Lentil. — The seed of this kind resembles that
of the Large Yellow Lentil in colour and shape, but is only about
half the size. It is sown in spring, like the Large Yellow variety.
The name Small Queen Lentil (Lentille a la Reine) is sometimes
given to this kind, and also to the preceding one. Both varieties
are very highly esteemed for table use, on account of their
delicate flavour and the remarkable thinness of the skin of the seed.

Auvergne Lentil, or One^flowered Tare (Ervum monantJws, L.
Leguminosce. L entitle d* Auvergne). — Native of Southern Europe. —
Annual. — A small plant, with slender stems, which require sup-
port. Leaves compound, formed of numerous very small, oval
leaflets ; flowers axillary, solitary, whitish, and long-stalked,
succeeded by broad flat pods, each containing two or three seeds.
The plant will grow about 2 or 2\ ft. high, if the stems have some-
thing to support them ; otherwise they sprawl on the ground.
Seed irregularly rounded, tolerably convex, intermediate in shape
between the seed of a Lentil and that of a Vetch, of a gray-brown
colour, streaked or marbled with black, floury, and rather agreeable
in flavour. Its germinating power lasts for three years. The
seed may be sown in autumn or in spring. The plant is much
more frequently grown to furnish green fodder than for its seeds,
and is mostly sown along with Rye or Oats, which furnish a support
for its climbing stems. The seed is sometimes eaten boiled, like
Lentils.

LETTUCE

Lactuca sativa, L. Composites.

French, Laitue cultivee. German, Lattich. Flemish and Dutch, Latouw. Danish,
Salat. Italian, Lattuga. Spanish, Lechuga. Portuguese, Alface.

Native of India or Central Asia, — Annual. — The origin of the
cultivated Lettuce is not known for certain, any more than the
time when it was first introduced into Europe ; neither can we be
sure that the ancients knew anything about it. However, the great

LETTUCE 361

number of varieties of it which now exist in cultivation, and the
very permanent manner in which some of these varieties appear to
be established, afford good grounds for the opinion that the plant
has been cultivated for a very long time.

The different varieties present such a diversity in the shape and
colour of the leaves, that it is difficult to give a general description
of the plant which will be applicable to all its forms. We may
suppose, however, and especially from the fact that some Chinese
varieties do not form a head, that in its original or natural state
the Lettuce forms a rosette of broad and long leaves, somewhat
spoon-shaped, and more or less undulated and toothed at the
edges. From the centre of the rosette springs a nearly cylindrical
stem, which narrows very rapidly and becomes branching at about
one-third of its height, furnished with clasping leaves, which are
auricled, and become narrower as they approach the top of the
stem. The flower-heads are numerous, longer than broad, with
pale yellow florets. Seed small, of a long almond shape, pointed
at one end, marked with pretty deep longitudinal furrows, and
usually either white or black, but sometimes brown or reddish
yellow. Its germinating power lasts for five years.

Good authorities appear inclined to refer all the cultivated
varieties of Lettuce to two distinct botanical types, from one of
which have been derived the Cabbage Lettuces, properly so called,
which have rounded or flattened heads, while the other has been
the parent of the Cos Lettuces, in which the head is tall and
elongated in shape. We find it difficult to assent to this view of
a twofold origin ; in the first place, because the two kinds pass into
each other through almost imperceptible gradations ; and secondly,
because as sopn as they run to seed they present no difference
between each other, which is conclusive proof of the identity of
their origin.

We have described the Cultivated Lettuce as an annual plant,
because the growth of the flower-stem uninterruptedly succeeds that
of the radical leaves which form the rosette, and because the rosette
itself is completely formed in a few weeks, or, at most, in a few
months. Nevertheless, several varieties are. so hardy, that they
may be sown in autumn, and, after withstanding the winter, will
not run to seed until spring. All the varieties are by no means
amenable to this treatment. On the other hand, there is a great
deal of inequality in the degrees of readiness with which the
different varieties run to seed under the influence of warm summer
weather. These differences of constitution and suitability for
various seasons have led to the division of the varieties of Lettuces
into three classes, from a cultural point of view, viz. :

i. WINTER LETTUCES, which, with a little care, will withstand
ordinary winters in France, the south of England, etc.

362

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

2. SPRING LETTUCES, which head rapidly when sown immedi-
ately after winter.

3. SUMMER LETTUCES, which are usually larger than - the
spring kinds, and do not run to seed too fast in hot weather.

Although this division is not very precise, we shall adopt it
here, as affording a means of indicating the mode of culture suitable
for each variety, without falling into endless repetitions. We shall
accordingly first point out the treatment suitable for winter
Lettuces in general, after which we shall enumerate and describe
the varieties which come under that head, doing afterwards the
same in the case of the spring and summer varieties.

CABBAGE LETTUCE

Lactuca capitata, D.C.

French, Laitues pommies. German, Kopfsalat. Flemish and Dutch, Kropsalad. Italian,
Lattuga a cappucio. Spanish, Lechuga acogollada. Portuguese, Alface repolhada.

I. WINTER VARIETIES

These are sown from the middle of August to the middle of
September. About the end of October, when the plants form a
rosette 2 to 3 in. in diameter and have each five or six pretty strong
leaves, they are planted out permanently in as warm and favourably
situated a position as possible — preferably at the bottom of a
south wall or in a thoroughly well-drained bed. In very frosty
weather the plants should be protected with straw mats, which
are to be taken off when the weather becomes mild. Winter
Lettuces are not injured by snow — so far from it, that we some-
times see varieties which are not very hardy pass through the

winter in safety when well
covered by it. In February
the growth of the winter
Lettuces becomes more active,
and the heads begin to form
at the end of April or early
in May, the plants continuing
to yield for six weeks to
two months, until the spring
Lettuces come in.

Madeira Large Winter
Cabbage Lettuce ( White-
seeded}. — This variety, when
young, has the leaves very much rounded and entire in outline,
the blade being slightly twisted and faintly crimped in the lower
part, of a rather dark green, with brown spots interspersed.
The colour becomes much lighter as the plant increases in

Madeira Large Winter Cabbage Lettuce
(£ natural size).

CABBAGE LETTUCE

363

size. The full-grown plant is of medium size, inclined to be
broad, and of low growth, the leaves resting on the ground and
forming a rosette somewhat irregular in outline, and 8 to 10 in.
in diameter ; the outer leaves are not crimped, and are entire at the
margin, but are broadly folded and twisted, and of a clear, light
green colour marked with a few brown spots. The head is
rounded, fairly thick, and pale green, tinged with red on the top.
The leaves immediately surrounding it are crimped, rumpled, and
tinged with red on the edges. This is considered one of the
hardiest of all Lettuces, and is generally only used for winter
culture in the open ground. If sown in spring, it runs to seed
very quickly.

White Madeira Lettuce (Black-seeded). — The young plant
differs from the white-seeded Madeira Lettuce in the absence of the
brown blotches on the outer leaves. It is a vigorous plant, pro-
ducing large, well-filled round heads, somewhat flattened, with
tones of silver, which are also seen on the lower side of the leaves.
The inner leaves are rounded, with plain, unnotched margins. The
outer leaves are large, not pointed, with ample folds and only
slightly crimped. The plant is a whitish green colour through-
out, without any coloured spots. It is more compact than the
Large White Winter Lettuce, and is also a little earlier to head.
It is proof against the Paris winter.

Hammersmith, or Hardy Green Winter, Cabbage Lettuce
(Laitue Marine} ( White-seeded}. — The leaves of the young plant are
nearly round, shortly spathulate,
finely toothed near the base,
entire on the rest of the margin,
generally folded in the direction
of the midrib, frequently hollowed
out like a spoon, and of a light,
pale, or yellow -green colour. The
full-grown plant is rather thick-
set, not exceeding 7 or 8 in. in
diameter, and somewhat irre-
gular in outline. Outer leaves
green, not very large, longer
than broad, twisted considerably
without being exactly folded, and partially crimped near the midrib,
but not at the edges ; head rather close and tall, fairly solid and
compact, and surrounded by leaves which are generally folded in
two, almost like a twisted paper bag, very much crimped and a
little paler in colour than the outer leaves. This variety is only
used for winter culture. It is hardy and of good quality, and can
be planted pretty close, which makes up in some degree for the
small size of the individual plants.

Hammersmith Cabbage Lettuce.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Large White Winter Cabbage Lettuce
Q natural size).

Large White Winter Cabbage Lettuce (White-seeded^).—
The leaves of the young plant are spathulate, slightly puckered
or folded, faintly toothed near the base, spreading very much, and
of a very light green colour. The full-grown plant is stout, broad,

and tall, 10 to 12 in. in
diameter, and very irregular
in outline. The outer leaves
are green, entire at the
edges, but very much twisted
and folded into broad un-
dulations; head round, thick,
light green in colour, com-
posed of and surrounded by
leaves which are very much
crimped, folded, and twisted,
the margins, however, being
entire or nearly so. This
is very suitable for winter
culture, being hardy, early, and very productive. It may also be
sown in spring, and when raised at that time it keeps the head
very long for a winter Lettuce.

Tremont Winter Cabbage Lettuce (White-seeded}.— -Very
hardy, and as productive as the Large White Winter Cabbage
Lettuce, and a better header than the Madeira Lettuce. A large
plant, with broad, rounded leaves of light green, forming good-
sized heads, with enough outer leaves to protect it against the
cold. Owing to its hardiness, size, and good quality it is one of
the best for sowing in
the latter half of August
for use at the end of
the winter.

Brown Winter
Cabbage Lettuce
( White - seeded}. — The
young plant of this
variety is very consider-
ably deeper in colour
than the young plant
of the Red Winter
Lettuce. Its leaves are
shortly oblong, and
angular in outline rather
than really toothed ; the blade, which is sometimes slightly
undulated, is hollowed out like a spoon, and blotched and plentifully
tinged with brown. The full-grown plant is compact and rather
thick-set. Leaves all more or less spoon-shaped, the outer ones

Tremont Winter Cabbage Lettuce.

CABBAGE LETTUCE

36S

Brown Winter Cabbage Lettuce
(-J natural size).

almost smooth ; head rounded, rather solid, composed of and
surrounded by coarsely crimped, rather ruffled leaves of a very
light green colour. The whole plant seldom exceeds 7 or 8 in.
in diameter. This is a very hardy variety, excellent in quality,
and taking up but little space
when growing ; but it is only
right to say that it runs to
seed rather faster than the
following kind.

Hardy Red Winter
Cabbage Lettuce ( White-
seeded}. — The leaves of the
young plant are oblong,
slightly narrowed at the ex-
tremity, and having very
much the appearance of Cos
Lettuce leaves ; edge nearly entire, faintly undulated, only
toothed on the lower third part ; in colour light green, slightly
tinged and blotched with light brown. A vigorous plant, very
hardy and quite distinct, with a tall, almost conical head, com-
posed of leaves twisted like Cabbage leaves. The head is large,
solid, and lasts a long time ; the leaves composing it are light
green, tinged with brown along the edges.' The outer leaves,
which have felt the severity of the winter, are almost as dark
as those of the Red Winter Cos Lettuce, particularly so towards
the point. It is not very spreading, and may be planted
fairly close.

Roquette Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Under this

name, a variety of winter
Lettuce is grown which
is remarkable for its
dwarf size and the firm-
ness of its head. The
plant is very small and
compact, with pale green
leaves deeply tinged with
bronzy red wherever it is
exposed to the light, and
in shape and general
appearance it somewhat
resembles a miniature
Batavian Lettuce. When

fully grown, it does not exceed 4 in. in diameter, and its small
size makes it very suitable for growing in frames or under
bell-glasses.

The Silesian Winter Lettuce is a rather large and pretty hardy

Hardy Red Winter Cabbage Lettuce.

366

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

kind, somewhat resembling the White Batavian Lettuce. The
leaves are large and twisted and pale green tinged with red.
Head rather large, but flabby. This variety does not answer for
summer culture.

II. SPRING VARIETIES

These are sown in March, on a spent hot-bed, or simply on compost
(rotted spent manure), at the foot of a south wall. The seedlings
are planted out in April, and the plants may commence to be cut
for use about the end of May or early in June. These may also
(as is usually the practice with market-gardeners) be sown, where
the crop is to stand, about the end of February, among other
vegetables growing in pure compost, or in soil covered with a thick
layer of compost. In this case the small varieties should be grown,
as being less likely to interfere with the other vegetables among
which they are sown,

The spring varieties, especially the Crisped and Tennis-ball
kinds (Laitue Crepe and L. Gotte\ are those which are used for forcing.
These two kinds, and especially the Black-seeded Crisped (L. Crepe a
Graine Noire) are sown in October in hot-beds, and are entirely
grown either in frames or under bell-glasses. The last-named kind
(the ''petite noire" of the Paris market-gardeners) has the peculiarity
of being able to grow almost entirely without air, so that it can be
quickly raised with the help of a little artificial heat. The Tennis-
ball is a more productive kind, but requires fresh air to be admitted

from time to time. The
sowings made in frames
during winter may be
finished off by a sowing
made on the hot-beds
with the frames and lights
removed. The plants thus
raised, and not trans-
planted, will come in some
days earlier than the first
of those planted out in
the open air.

Milly Forcing Lettuce
( White-seeded}. — Does as
well under glass in winter
as in open culture during
summer. The head is large, solid, and light green, much tinged
with russet on the top and sometimes on the sides. It resembles
closely the old Red-edged Victoria Lettuce, but is larger and is
quicker to head. Sown in the autumn, and planted out under

Milly Forcing Cabbage Lettuce.

CABBAGE LETTUCE

367

Black-seeded Crisped Cabbage
Lettuce (£ natural size).

hand-bells or in frames, it is ready for use about the same time
as the early spring varieties, but is much larger in size.

The variety known in America by the name of Crisp-as-Ice
Lettuce resembles it very closely, although rather lighter in colour.

Black-seeded Crisped Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue Crepe d
Graine Noire). — Young plant rather compact, with leaves nearly
round in outline, but angularly indented. The young leaves begin
very soon to fold themselves like a twisted paper bag. The full-
grown plant is small, low, resting on
the ground, of a very pale green,
somewhat irregular in outline, and 6
or 7 in. in diameter. Outer leaves
broad but short, slightly undulated at
the edges, twisted, and very sparingly
crimped ; head round, slightly flattened,
formed of leaves which are paler in
colour, but much less crimped and
curled than those of the White-seeded
Tennis-ball Lettuce ; it is firm and
forms quickly, but does not last long. This variety is chiefly
grown for an early crop under bell-glasses and in frames, in winter
and early spring.

White-Seeded Crisped, or Early Paris Gutting, Cabbage
Lettuce. — The leaves of the young plant are broad and short, with
an angular or bluntly toothed outline, and light green in colour,
which changes almost to a butter-yellow in the parts exposed to the
sun. The full-grown plant is of medium size, about 8 in. in
diameter, with leaves of a light green colour, very much curled and
undulated. Outer leaves very much folded and waved at the
edges, broadly and bluntly toothed, and coarsely crimped here and
there ; head of medium size, tall, formed of leaves which are
paler and much more crimped than the outer ones, and also more
curled than those of the Black-seeded Tennis-ball Lettuce. It
is generally soft, although very full, forms
quickly, but is soon put out of shape by
the quick growth of the flower-stem. This
variety is well adapted for spring culture,
especially in the open air. When sown in
autumn, it bears the winter pretty well.

White-seeded Tennis-ball, or Boston
Market, Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue gotte gr.
£/.). — The young plant of this variety has
leaves of a very light green colour (which become yellow where it
is exposed to the sun), and of an outline which is angular rather than
decidedly toothed, except at the base. The young leaves begin
very soon to become crimped and rumpled, and plants which have

Cabbage Lettuce i
size).

368 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

not made a dozen leaves will sometimes exhibit the rudiments of a
head. The full-grown plant is small and thick-set, about 6 in. in
diameter, and roundish in its outlines. Outer leaves rounded and
partially crimped, with edges almost entire, but very much folded
and sinuated ; head small, but rather compact, of a pale, 'almost
yellow, green, and formed of leaves which are much more crimped
and sinuated than the outer ones. Though of small size, it is very
productive. It grows rapidly, keeps the head well, and may be
planted very close. It is especially suitable for a spring crop — that
is, to be sown immediately after winter, and cut for use before
summer. Sown in autumn it bears the winter well, but for this
purpose we have other varieties which are hardier and much more
productive. For summer culture also, although this kind is not
particularly liable to run to seed, the true summer Lettuces are to
be preferred.

There is another form of White-seeded Tennis-ball named
Laitue Gotte Dorte, or/,. Gotte Jaune cFOr (the Golden Tennis-
ball), which is very like the variety next described, but runs to seed
sooner.

Early White Spring, or Paris Market Forcing, Cabbage
Lettuce (Laitue gotte gr. n.} {Black-seeded}. — The young plant differs
very little from the preceding variety, except that its leaves are more
crimped and folded. The full-grown plant is smaller than the pre-
ceding, and has the head flattened and never very firm. In all other
respects the two are much alike, and are grown in the same way.

French Tom Thumb Lettuce (Laitue Gotte Lente a Monter)
(Black-seeded). — The leaves of the young plant are a rather dark

green, rounded, entire, hollowed
like a spoon, and with one-half
almost always folded back. The
central leaves begin to become
crimped very early. The full-
grown plant is low and rather
thick-set, irregular in outline, and
6 or 7 in. in diameter. Outer
_ leaves falling back on the ground,

French Tom Thumb Lettuce. rather short and stiff> and dark

green in colour, generally folded

along the midrib, with one half flat and the other turned up, and
pretty well crimped ; central leaves also more or less folded, with
numerous and prominent crimpings, forming a head of medium
size, very firm and compact, green on the outside, very tender,
and keeping for a long time, even in summer. This variety is
rather small, but comparatively very productive and early, and
keeps the head well ; it is one of the best for spring and summer
culture. The head is tender and of excellent quality.

CABBAGE LETTUCE 369

Wheeler's Tom Thumb Lettuce (Black-seeded).— Light green,
with almost round leaves, slightly crimped and finely toothed near
the base. It resembles the Algiers Lettuce, and still more closely
the Early White Spring Lettuce, but it has smaller outer leaves.
Its small size enables it to be planted very close, and it is well
adapted for frames.

Red-edged Victoria Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded}.— Leaves
of young plant rounded, folded in the lower part, and flat or
slightly hollowed out like a spoon in the rest of the blade, light
green in colour, faintly tinged with yellow on the parts exposed to
the sun. Full-grown plant compact, 8 or 9 in. in diameter ; outer
leaves rounded, nearly flat, resting on the ground ; those surround-
ing the head slightly crimped, and pale, yellowish green, tinged
with red at the edges ; head very solid, and compact, looking as if

Wheeler's Tom Thumb Lettuce. Red-edged Victoria Cabbage Lettuce.

twisted, and of a yellowish light green and tinged with red on the
top. This is the most productive of all the spring Lettuces. It is
also slower in forming the head than any other kind, and may be
regarded as the connecting-link between the spring and the summer
varieties. The head is very tender and, at the same time, very
firm. It is one of the best kinds either for the private kitchen-
garden or for market-gardening purposes, and a very good variety
for forcing.

The following varieties are only occasionally met with in
cultivation : —

Laitue Bigotte. — Head medium-sized or large, round, very
light-coloured green, deeply tinged with red. A fine, early, and
productive kind.

Laitue Cocasse a Graine Noire.— Leaves of a light glaucous
green, crimped ; those around the head folded back ; head very
firm and solid. The white-seeded form of this kind exhibits hardly
any difference from it.

Coquille Cabbage Lettuce.— A small variety, with a tall head.
Leaves stiff, crimped, folded in two, and turned back at the ends.
The appearance of the plant is almost intermediate between that of
a Cabbage and a Cos Lettuce. It is a pretty early kind, but not
very productive.

24

370 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Green Tennis-ball Cabbage Lettuce.— Leaves of the young
plant broad, very entire, rounded, not toothed, except merely at the
base, and a vivid green. . The head is slow in forming. Full-grown
plant small, 7 or 8 in. in diameter, with an erect head ; leaves
narrow, and very dark green, by which it is distinguished from all
other Lettuces ; the outer ones almost flat, very like those of the
Lettuce-leaved Spinach, the central ones tolerably crimped, and
forming a head which is at least as tall as it is broad, and is never
very solid ; seed black. This is an old variety, without any great
merit except its hardiness.

Green Crisped Cabbage Lettuce.— Leaves large, undulated,
curled at the edges, and light green ; head medium-sized, somewhat
flattened, and tinged with brown on the top. A hardy kind, but
not very tender or well flavoured.

Laitue Dauphine. — Leaves large, marked with a few red spots ;
head tall, not very solid, light green, slightly tinged with red on the
top. In appearance this variety somewhat resembles the Large or
White Summer Cabbage Lettuce, except that it is of a darker
green. Seed black.

George Early White Spring Cabbage Lettuce. — Leaves

large, roundish, and not much
undulated ; head round, light
coloured, of medium size, com-
posed of broadly crimped leaves.
This variety is not so good as the
Crisped or Tennis-ball kinds, and
is most commonly grown as a
cutting Lettuce. Seed white.
George Lettuce. Laitue Grasse de Bourges.—

A rather compact kind, nearly the

whole of the plant forming the head, with short spoon-shaped
leaves. Head round and close. This is an early and tender
variety, but is liable to rot very easily.

Mousseronne Cabbage Lettuce. — Leaves medium - sized,
curled and toothed, slightly crimped, and light green edged with
brown ; head small and loose, russet tinged ; seed white. This
variety is very early, but heads badly. It may also be grown as a
cutting Lettuce, like the George Lettuce.

Some foreign varieties of spring Lettuces may be here men-
tioned, of which the best and most commonly grown are the
following : —

Early Cabbage, or Dutch Butter-head, Lettuce. — A small
and very distinct variety, with crimped leaves, blotched with
pale brown. Head firm and compact, tinged with red, and
scarcely as large as that of the Tom Thumb Lettuce. Seed
white.

CABBAGE LETTUCE

371

Earliest Dwarf Green Lettuce. — A pretty little green variety,
very thick-set and distinct, although evidently not far removed

from the Tom Thumb Lettuce. Seed
black.

Laitue Empereur a Forcer. — This
small variety, which is very early, very
much resembles the White-seeded Tennis-
ball Lettuce, but is somewhat lighter in

Earliest Dwarf Green Lettuce
(^ natural size).

colour, and runs to seed sooner.

Hubbard's Forcing Lettuce. — A

large, light-coloured American kind, some-
thing like the White-seeded Tennis-ball and the White Summer
Cabbage Lettuce. It is forced under glass in spring.

III. SUMMER VARIETIES

The culture of these is of the most simple kind. The seed is
sown in a seed-bed from March to July, and the seedlings are
usually pricked out once before they are planted out permanently,
which is done when they have made five or six good leaves. After
this, they require no further attention except frequent and plentiful
waterings. A good mulching of manure spread amongst them will
keep the soil cool and moist and stimulate the growth of the plants.

Algiers Lettuce (Black-seeded}. — In general appearance this
variety resembles the Red-edged Victoria Lettuce, but is smaller
and of a darker green.
A very nice little
Lettuce, suitable both
for the market and the
kitchen garden. In the
climate of Paris it is
a spring and summer
Lettuce, but in climates
where there are no hard
frosts it may be grown
for a winter crop. It
can bear close planting,
like the Tom Thumb
Lettuce.

White-seeded
All - the - Year - Round
Lettuce (Laitue blonde #&f).— Leaves of young plant light
green, short, entire, rounded, very faintly toothed at the base,
and slightly undulating. Full-grown plant with a round, com-
pact, very solid head, of a very pale green ; outer leaves short,

Algiers Lettuce.

372

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

rounded, very entire at the edges, but finely crimped and slightly
undulated ; the plant is 6 to 8 in. in diameter. An excellent
variety, one of the most commonly grown, as shown by the
great number of names which it bears. It is hardy and very
productive, being, as the
gardeners say, " all head."
It makes a fine, tender,
crisp salad, and grows
well in almost any soil,
so that it is found in
cultivation almost all over
the world.

White -seeded All-the-Year-Round
Lettuce (£ natural size).

' '
Marvel of Cazard Cabbage Lettuce.

Marvel of Cazard Cabbage Lettuce (Black-seeded). — Re-
sembles the preceding, but superior to it. The head is round, very
solid, not liable to split nor to grow out of shape, and always white
and tender, with outer leaves of light green, broad and well
crimped. A vigorous half-early variety.

Black-seeded All-the-Year-Round Cabbage Lettuce (Blonde
de Berlin}. — Young plant of a light green colour ; leaves rounded,

Black-seeded All-the-Year-Round
Cabbage Lettuce.

Golden-head Cabbage Lettuce.

entire at the edges, and with a tendency to become twisted in the
shape of a paper bag. Head of full-grown plant round, soft, but
very Full ; outer leaves broadly crimped, rounded, entire, and very

CABBAGE LETTUCE

373

pale green or almost yellow ; those surrounding the head are more
erect and less folded than they are in the preceding kind. The
head is also somewhat taller. The plant is seldom more than 8 in.
in diameter.

Golden-head Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded}.— bounded
leaves of light golden-green, crimped, with strongly marked veins.
The full-grown leaves are a light gold colour, soft, and slightly
twisted. The leaves of the head are lighter still, and form a
compact head, which is tall, though not very large.

Large Versailles Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded).— Young
plant of a rather light green colour ; leaves rounded, entire, with
visible veinings. It resembles the young plant of the Large White
Cabbage Lettuce, but is larger at the same age. Head of full-
grown plant round or somewhat long, very firm and solid, and
rather pale green ; outer leaves very large, entire, rather dark green,
folded and crimped, especially about the midrib ; those surrounding

Large Versailles Cabbage Lettuce.

Chavigny White Lettuce (\ natural size;.

the head are broadly undulated and twisted in all directions, giving
the plant a somewhat irregular appearance. The plant is 10 or
1 1 in. in diameter.

Chavigny White Lettuce (Laitue Blonde de Chavignt)
( White- seeded). — Young plant of a light green colour, and exceed-
ingly like the young plant of the White Summer Cabbage Lettuce,
only not so light coloured ; the leaves also are rather narrower
towards the base. Head of full-grown plant large, full, and
compact, pale green, almost yellow, on the top ; outer leaves very
much rounded in outline, with a few coarse, broad crimpings, and
not nearly so pale in colour as the leaves which form the head ;
plant 8 to 10 in. in diameter. This is a very fine variety, regular
in shape, quick in forming the head, slow in running to seed, and
yielding, with less bulk, quite as heavy a crop as the Large
Versailles Lettuce. It is highly to be recommended.

White Stone, or Nonpareil, Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue grosse
blonde paresseuse) ( White-seeded]. — Young plant rather light green ;
leaves rounded, or shortly spathulate, flat, toothed and undulated on

374

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

White Stone, or Nonpareil, Cabbage Lettuce
(I natural size).

the lower half. Head of full-grown plant large and tall, but flattened
on the top, of a very pale yellowish green, almost the colour of
wax or butter; outer leaves large, very much rounded, slightly
crimped, and not quite so pale in colour as the head ; plant about

12 in. in diameter. This
fine Lettuce is large-sized
and productive. It grows
well and keeps the head
perfectly in very hot weather.
Turkish, or Butter,
Russian or Asiatic,
Cabbage Lettuce (Black-
seeded). — Young plant of a
uniform dull, pale green ;
leaves short, rounded, spath-
ulate, and slightly toothed
on the whole of the margin.
Head of full-grown plant

rounded, slightly flattened, of a very pale green, almost white ;
outer leaves resting on the ground, rounded, very entire, scarcely
crimped*, of an exceedingly pale green, and of an appearance
betokening great thickness. The outside face of the leaves is of
a still lighter tint and sometimes silvery. All the leaves are very
entire, and those which form the head and also those which
immediately surround it are rather crimped. Plant 8 or 10 in.
in diameter.

Imperial, or Asiatic, Cabbage Lettuce (White-seeded). —
Young plant of a uniform pale and rather dull green ; leaves round,
short, flat, and bluntly
toothed on the whole of
the margin. This variety
only differs from the pre-
ceding one in the colour
of its seed, which is white.
Both kinds are only suit-
able for summer culture,
for which they are highly
to be recommended, as
they are very productive
and bear hot dry weather
well.

The Laitue Caladoise
and the German variety named Perpignaner Dauerkopf come very
close to the Imperial Lettuce.

Green Fat Cabbage Lettuce (Black-seeded).— Young plant
dark green ; leaves short, rounded, or bluntly spathulate, very

Imperial, or Asiatic, Cabbage Lettuce
(£ natural size).

CABBAGE LETTUCE

375

slightly toothed on the margin, the lower ones crimped and twisted.
Head of full-grown plant rounded or slightly flattened, close, firm,
and surrounded by leaves with entire edges, all broadly crimped,
light green, dark on the upper surface and almost silvery on the
under-side ; outer leaves very
round, small, entire, and smooth.
All the leaves are stiff and of
a dense texture, somewhat re-
sembling Spinach leaves. The
plant is from about 7 to o in.
in diameter. This is a good
summer Lettuce, yielding a
heavy crop with small bulk,
and keeping the head very

,, Green Fat Cabbage Lettuce (£ natural size).

Large Normandy Lettuce (Yellow-seeded}. — Young plant
dark green ; leaves long, spathulate, usually twisted, toothed
towards the base, and angular on the remainder of the margin,
almost more like the leaves of the Batavian Endive than Lettuce
leaves. Head of full-grown plant rounded or slightly elongated,
rather thick, very solid, slightly crimped, and pale green ; outer
leaves rounded, of a dense texture, very entire at the edges, of a
uniform dark green colour, and coarsely crimped here and there.
Some of the leaves spread on the ground and others stand erect
around the head. The diameter ranges from 10 to 12 in. This
variety is something like the Large Versailles Lettuce in appear-
ance, but its leaves are considerably darker in colour, and it is
unmistakably distinguished by the colour of the seed.

Red-edged Trocadero, or Big Boston, Lettuce (White-
seeded}. — Light green leaves on the young plant slightly undulating

and with a red tinge on the
edge ; the outer leaves medium
size, rounded, waving, ash-green ;
those of the head are turned
inwards, and paler, and tinged
with purple-red. The head is
flat, irregular, very like that of
the Crisped Lettuce, very com-
pact, firm, red on the top, and
easy to recognise. Succeeds
everywhere and in any kind of
cultivation.

Red-edged Trocadero Cabbage Lettuce.

Unrivalled, or Improved Big Boston, Cabbage Lettuce( White-
seeded}. — An improvement on the foregoing. The head is very
large, very solid, and excellent in quality. The outer leaves are
not very large, and are light green and well crimped. Remarkable

376

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Unrivalled Cabbage Lettuce.

for early and quick growth ; it forms its head in six weeks, at least
ten days before the Trocadero Lettuce. May be sown the whole
season, and is fit for use during the greater part of the year. In
summer, when most other sorts are withering or running to seed, it

keeps its head very
well.

Mogul Cabbage,
or Black-seeded Giant
Summer, Lettuce
(Laitue Grosse Brune
Paresseuse} (Black-
seeded). — Young plant
of a rather pale dull
green, marked with
brown spots ; leaves
short, rounded, entire
at the end and toothed

. ^ ' uii'' 'iiiiMHimiMMMiMffii1 along the sides. This

^o" is a large strong-

growing kind, the full-
grown plant being
ab,out I ft. in diameter. Outer leaves very large, light green, much
paler on the inner side, folded rather than crimped, and marked,
as are all the other leaves, with brown spots ; head tall, compact,
tinged with brown-red on the top, and composed of leaves which
are tolerably crimped, and become spoon-shaped as they overlap
one another. This is a very hardy and exceedingly productive
kind, very suitable for field culture. The Berlaimont Lettuce,
which is in high repute in the north of France, appears to us to be
identical with it.

White-seeded Brown Dutch
monte-a-peine gr. £/.). — Young
plant dull green, tinged with
brown on the veins ; leaves
rounded, spathulate, slightly
toethed towards the base, the
central ones soon becoming
crimped and undulated. Head
of the full-grown plant rounded,
or slightly elongated, very full

and firm Pale green, deeply Mogul Cabbage Lettuce a natural size),
tinged with red on top ; outer

leaves rounded, with entire margins, crimped, of a gray-green
colour, edged and tinged with light brown ; those which surround
the head are very much crimped, folded, and twisted. All the
parts exposed to the sun, whether on the upper or lower side

Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue

CABBAGE LETTUCE

377

Brown Genoa Cabbage Lettuce
(£ natural size).

of the leaves, become tinged with coppery red. This is a very

good kind ; it is hardy, keeps the head well, and does not take

up too much space when growing. The plant does not exceed

from 8 to 10 in. in diameter.

Brown Genoa Cabbage Lettuce

(Laitue Palatine} (Black - seeded). —

Young plant green, tinged with brown ;

leaves rather short, rounded, spathulate,

entire at the margin, except towards

the base, where it is toothed ; vein ings

red. Head of full-grown plant medium

size or large, rounded, very solid without

being hard, and deeply tinged with

brown-red on the top ; outer leaves rather large, entire at the

edges, but crimped, folded, and twisted, tinged with red and with

dark brown blotches interspersed ; plant 10 to 12 in. in diameter.

This variety is one of the hardiest and least troublesome to grow.

No other kind is superior to it for summer or autumn culture,

either in productiveness or the certainty of the crop. It heads

very quickly, keeps the
head well, and withstands
the early frosts in the
latter end of autumn.
During the latter part of
summer and all through
the autumn it furnishes
more than half of the
Cabbage Lettuces which
are sent to the Central
Market at Paris.

Giant Summer
Cabbage Lettuce
( Yellow-seeded]. — In the
young plant light green
leaves turning to yellow
under the action of the
sun ; leaves long-stalked
and spiny at the edges,
slightly folded outwards.
At maturity the leaves
are large, crimped, and
yellow-white. The head
is tall, large, rising well

out of the leaves, tinged with red, and sometimes spotted brown

at the edge. A good summer Lettuce, keeping its head well,

and very productive.

Giant Summer Cabbage Lettuce.

378

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Brown Stonehead, or Blockhead, Lettuce (White-seeded*)
The leaves in the young plant light green, streaked with brown
towards the edges and slightly crimped, rounded, and somewhat
recurving. In the full-grown plant the outer leaves are large,

crimped, and tinged brown ;
the head green, marked
with bronze - coloured
blotches, which are most
conspicuous on the crimp-
ings. It is a splendid
summer Lettuce, heading
promptly and not very apt
to run to seed.

Marvel, or Red Besson,
Cabbage Lettuce (Black-
seeded], — Young plant of

Brown Stonehead, or Blockhead, Cabbage Lettuce, vigorous growth, tinged all

over with brownish red ;

leaves short, almost round, very entire, with the edges turned up in
a kind of spoon shape. The plant is easily recognised from its
earliest age by its colour. The full-grown plant is stout and rather
thick-set, and of rapid growth. Head rounded, slightly flattened on
the top, where it is deeply tinged with bright red, which contrasts
In a striking manner with the very pale tint of those parts of the
plant which are not exposed to the sun. The outer leaves are
similarly coloured with red on the exposed parts. All the leaves
are rounded in outline, more or less undulated, and coarsely
crimped here and there. This is the most highly coloured of all
the Lettuces which are commonly grown about Paris, and is of a
still deeper red than the old variety known as the Rouge Chartreuse.
The plant is about I ft. in
diameter. This variety may
be grown almost all the year
round, as one of its French
names indicates, but it does
best in spring and summer.
The head forms very quickly
and keeps firm for a long
time, even in very hot
weather.

Improved Spotted
Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue
Sanguine Amelioree] (White-seeded}. — Young plant marked with
very small and fine red spots and streaks; leaves rounded, entire,
undulated or folded. In the central leaves the green colour
disappears altogether under the numerous small red-brown spots

Marvel, or Red Besson, Cabbage Lettuce.

CABBAGE LETTUCE

379

Improved Spotted Cabbage Lettuce
(£ natural size).

with which they are covered. In the full-grown plant the head is
exceedingly close, of medium size, round, or slightly flattened on
the top, the inner leaves being very much folded and of an ivory-
white, very finely and plentifully
streaked with carmine. The top
of the head is of a deep copper
colour. The outer leaves, which are
small, numerous, and less crimped
as they are nearer to the ground,
are covered with a vast number of
small red spots, which give the
whole plant a bronzy tinge. The
plant seldom exceeds from 7 to 9 in.
in diameter. This variety, although small, is productive. It is
also early and keeps the head well. The very lively colour of
the spots forms a pleasing contrast on the leaves when they are
blanched, making a nice-looking salad, which is at the same time
tender and of excellent quality.

Early Ohio, or Nonpareil, Lettuce ( White-seeded}. — When young
the leaves are very light green, undulating, fringed and closely
crimped, the inner leaves erect. A very pretty variety, something
like the Simpson Lettuce, but with smaller, whiter, finer cut, and
more erect leaves, and also heading more readily. The head is rather
tall and pointed, something like that of the Hooded or Hardy
Green Winter Endive. It is a true summer Lettuce, very tender
and crisp, well suited for hot climates, and welcome everywhere.

Early Ohio, or Nonpareil, Cabbage
Lettuce.

Early Simpson Cabbage Lettuce
(\ natural size).

Early Simpson Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded). — Young plant
pale green, almost yellow ; leaves angular, very much undulated at
the margin, curled and rumpled. Head of full-grown plant seldom
well formed ; leaves large, light green, with a shining surface, very
fresh and pleasing to the sight, very much curled and undulated,
finely crimped, very numerous, and tender even when they do not
form a head. This is one of the best summer Lettuces, and is very

380

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

White Silesian Lettuce (£ natural size).

suitable for growing in warm climates. All it requires is to be
plentifully watered.

The Early Silesian Lettuce and the American varieties named
the Hanson Lettuce, New Large-head Lettuce, Hamilton Market
Lettuce, Large Indian Lettuce, and Early Curled Silesian Lettuce,

all come so near the Early
Simpson, that it is difficult
to discover any difference
between them.

White Batavian, or
Silesian, Lettuce (White-
seeded). — Young plant of
light or yellow green ; leaves
slightly toothed, undulated,
and tinged with pale red
on the margin. Head of
full-grown plant very large,
but not very firm, pale
green tinged with light red, rounded or slightly flattened ; outer
leaves broad, curled, finely crimped, very much undulated and
broadly toothed at the edges, where they are also slightly tinged
with red. The plant is 12 to 14 in. in diameter.

The variety named Laitue Belle et Bonne de Bruxelles comes
very near the White Silesian. Sometimes it is almost entirely
without the red tinge, and then it very much resembles the
following kind.

Curled German Batavidn, or Curled Silesian, Cabbage
Lettuce (White-seeded}. — Leaves of the young plant broad and
short, with the edges scalloped and undulated, and of a light,
slightly yellowish, green colour.
Head of full-grown plant large,
soft, rounded or slightly flat-
tened, and very pale green ;
outer leaves crimped, curled,
and slightly cut at the edges.
The plant is u or 12 in. in
diameter. With the exception
of its very light colour, this
variety is not unlike the
Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce.
It is a vigorous-growing kind,
very easily grown, and yields a sure crop in summer.

Brown Batavian, or Marseilles, Cabbage Lettuce (White-
seeded). — Young plant very dark green ; leaves very long, narrow,
sharply toothed at the edges ; midrib and margin of the leaves
tinged with brown. Head of full-grown plant very tall and

Curled German Batavian Lettuce
($ natural size).

CABBAGE LETTUCE

elongated, more like the head of a Cos than that of a Cabbage

Lettuce, almost always soft, and seldom well formed ; outer leaves

very large, erect for some portion of their length, then turned

backwards, crimped, very much undulated and puckered at the

edges, and of a dark green

colour tinged with brown on

all the parts that are most

exposed to the sun. The

plant is about 16 in. in

diameter, and nearly the

same in height. This variety

does not succeed well in the

climate of Paris, but is in

high repute in warm climates,

and even in the south of

France.

Neapolitan Cabbage
Lettuce (White- seeded). —

,,. | j i Brown Batavian. or Marseilles, Cabbage Lettuce

Young plant dark green; (i natural size),

leaves shortly spathulate,

wavy at the edges, toothed, and slightly crimped. Head of full-
grown plant large, depressed, sometimes almost flat, whitish green,
and slightly crimped ; outer leaves of a rather dark green, spreading
on the ground, finely crimped, very much curled and undulated
at the edges. The plant is often 12 to 14 in. in diameter. This
variety keeps the head better, perhaps, than any other kind of
Lettuce. It often happens that the flower-stem is unable to make
its way through the head, unless the latter is cut so as to give
it a passage.

Blond Stonehead, or Blockhead, Lettuce (White-seeded}.—
The leaves at first are a very light green, almost white, tinged

yellow, sparingly crimped,
much waving at the edges
and slightly fringed or cut.
The head is very large, rather
flat and solid ; the outer leaves
are large, broad, spreading,
very finely crimped, and
waving at the edges, much
like those of Neapolitan
Lettuce, but much lighter in
colour. An excellent summer
Lettuce much grown by market-gardeners around Paris.

Large Bossin Cabbage Lettuce (Black-seeded). — Young plant
a light green, almost yellow, with some brown spots ; leaves
longish, toothed, and tinged with brown on the veins and edges.

Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce (£ natural size).

382

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Head of full-grown plant large, flat, light green, tinged with
brown ; outer leaves very large and luxuriant, spreading widely on
the ground, and forming a rosette 16 in. or more in diameter, very

much toothed and un-
dulated at the edges,
slightly crimped, and
irregularly shaded and
spotted with red-brown.
This is a very vigorous-
growing and hardy kind,
bearing hot weather
well, but the weight of
the produce is not in
proportion to the extent
of ground covered by
the plants.

Malta, or Ice,
Drumhead Lettuce
( White-seeded}. — You n g

Blond Blockhead Cabbage-Lettuce. Plant a uniform light

green ; leaves spathulate,

long, veined, much toothed, and slightly undulated on the whole
of the margin, and somewhat twisted. Head of full-grown plant
composed of pale green leaves, which are folded and marked
with elongated crimpings. When the head is commencing to
form, it is something like that of a Cos Lettuce, but it widens
and becomes nearly round when fully grown. The midribs of
the leaves are thick,
and often project
from the head. Outer
leaves very large,
light green, with the
edges folded, slightly
cut, and sometimes
rolled inwards on the
under-side. The
plant is 12 to 14 in. in
diameter, and about
the same in height.
The Malta Lettuce
grows rapidly, and
bears hot weather
well, but it does not keep the head long. It is especially suitable
for warm climates.

Green Madrid Cabbage Lettuce (Black-seeded}. — The head
in the full-grown plant is tall, with outer leaves of a glossy dark

Large Bossin Cabbage Lettuce (£ natural size).

CABBAGE LETTUCE

383

Malta, or Ice, Drumhead Lettuce
(\ natural size).

green. An excellent winter Lettuce, keeping well and very pro-
ductive. Although hardy enough for the Paris winter, in mild
climates its good qualities are seen to perfection. Being of
compact growth, it may be planted
close.

Lebceuf Lettuce ( White-
seeded).— Young plant dark green ;
leaves very large, the first spa-
thulate and flat, the succeeding
ones shorter, crimped at the base,
with broad white midribs, and
more like the leaves of a Cos
than those of a Cabbage Lettuce.
Head of full-grown plant tolerably
like that of a Cos Lettuce, com-
posed of leaves pressed close to,
but not regularly overlapping,
one another ; outer leaves elongated, erect for a portion of their
length, and then turned backwards near the end, all more or
less folded in the direction of the midrib, and folded, crimped,
and often twisted at the edges. The plant is 7 or 8 in. in diameter,
and as much, or even more, in height. Except that its leaves are
somewhat stouter and larger, this variety is tolerably like a Ground
Cos Lettuce. It has the peculiarity of frequently producing shoots
at the base of the head.

In addition to the summer Lettuces already described, the
following varieties appear to us the best and most distinct: —

Bellegarde Cabbage Lettuce ( White-seeded}.— A tall, broad
plant, the head surrounded with large leaves, which are cut and
deeply toothed on the edges. In general appearance it resembles
the Large Bossin Cabbage Lettuce, but is smaller and rather more

deeply coloured.

Brown Cabbage Lettuce
( Yellow-seeded}. — This variety comes
very near the Brown Dutch Lettuce
in shape, colour, and general ap-
pearance, but differs from it in
having the leaves more crimped
and of a rather redder tinge, and
differs entirely from it in the yellow
colour of the seed. In Anjou there
is another yellow-seeded kind grown,
which must not be confounded with
this one. The Anjou variety is small, entirely green, and is chiefly
adapted for winter culture, but it is not very extensively dis-
tributed, nor does it seem deserving of being more so.

Lebceuf Lettuce.

384

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Black-seeded Brown Dutch Cabbage
Lettuce.

Black-seeded Brown Dutch Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue Rousse
Hollandaise gr. n.}. — Young plant of a dull green colour, slightly
tinged with light brown ; leaves short, roundish, or spathulate,
finely toothed towards the base, where they are of a reddish colour,

as are also the veins. This variety
differs from the Brown Genoa
Cabbage Lettuce chiefly in having
no spots on the leaves, and the
plant altogether is not so brown.
In other respects the two kinds
are much alike in size and general
appearance.

Dutch Cabbage Lettuce
(Black-seeded). — Young plant of a
uniform dark green, leaves short,
rounded, flat, slightly toothed near
the base, the inner leaves crimped and sinuated. Head of full-
grown plant small, round, very close and hard, and surrounded by
entire, crimped, and slightly undulated leaves, which form a very
compact rosette. The plant is, at most, from 6 to 8 in. in diameter.
Its general appearance resembles that of the Large White Cabbage
Lettuce, with which, however, it cannot be confounded, if the
difference in the colour of the leaves and of the seed is taken
into consideration. Small-sized Lettuces, like this variety, are
often valuable to gardeners for growing amongst other vegetables.

Cendrette du Havre Lettuce. — A handsome summer Lettuce
of medium size, somewhat like the Trocadero Lettuce, but with the
leaves more crimped, and tinged with darker brown on the top.

Fontenay Lettuce. — A fine variety of Cabbage Lettuce, very
slow in running to seed, large and productive. It resembles the
Turkish Cabbage Lettuce, but is larger. It is very light coloured
in all its parts.

Frankfort Lettuce. — A handsome variety, resembling the
Black-seeded All the Year Round
Cabbage Lettuce, but not so broad,
and with a taller, egg-shaped head,
of a peculiar gold shade.

Mortatella Cabbage Lettuce. —
A very distinct variety, of Italian
origin. A peculiarity which belongs
almost exclusively to this Lettuce is
that the stem is long like that of many
round-headed Cabbages (especially those sown in autumn), in
consequence of which the large outer leaves, instead of forming
a rosette close to the ground, grow in tiers, the head forming at
some distance above the soil. These outer leaves are of a dark

Black-seeded Dutch Cabbage
Lettuce (£ natural size).

CABBAGE LETTUCE 385

dull green, short, rounded, and often hollowed like a spoon. The
head is compact, of medium size, a little longer than broad, and
frequently tinged with red on the upper part ; it preserves its shape
for a long time. The axillary buds of the lower leaves sometimes

become developed into sprouts or
shoots, which are rarely of any
great size. In Italy this Lettuce
is said to grow well all the year
round, but, from our experience
of it, it is chiefly valuable as an
autumn and winter Lettuce in the
neighbourhood of Paris.

Laitue de Neris.— A fine

Mortatella Cabbage Lettuce. sum™er Lettuce very much re-

sembling the Mogul Lettuce,

except that it is much lighter in colour. It is very much grown
and highly thought of in the central parts of France.

New Gem Cabbage Lettuce. — A pretty little kind, with a
compact head, almost devoid of outer leaves. It takes up very
little space when growing, and produces a comparatively large
and very solid head. In general appearance the plant is rather
like the Roquette Lettuce, but is somewhat larger growing, and
does not bear the winter.

Pas de Calais Cabbage Lettuce. — Young plant of a uniform
dark green colour ; leaves elongated spoon-shaped, slightly angular
at the margin, and toothed and undulated towards the base. The
full-grown plant is stout, and rather like the Mogul Cabbage* Lettuce,
but differing from it notably in the total absence of brown spots from
the leaves. It is also somewhat taller, and the head is more ovoid
in shape and of a bronzy, rather than a red, colour in the parts
exposed to the sun. Seed black.x

Laitue Rose, ou Rouge d'Ete. — A very distinct variety, not
spotted, but very deeply tinged with brownish red on the edges
of the leaves and on the head. It is something like a brown
winter Lettuce, but more deeply coloured, and the head is taller.
It is very suitable for growing in the latter end of spring, and in
summer and autumn, and is often to be met with in the Central
Market at Paris.

Red Cabbage Lettuce (Laitue Rouge Chartreuse}. — This fine
variety has the same shape and, to a certain extent, the same
appearance as the Palatine Lettuce, but it is not spotted, and
the colour of the leaves is a much more decided red. It is a
good summer variety, and will also bear the winter, if not toe
severe. Seed black.

Spotted Cabbage Lettuce (White-seeded^. — A rather compact
variety, with rounded, twisted leaves, forming a close and very

25

386 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

tender head. The inner leaves are almost white, and streaked
with bright red ; the outer ones are of a dark green with brown
blotches.

Spotted Cabbage Lettuce (B lack-seeded}.— ^^is variety differs
from the preceding one in the fineness of the red streaks with
which the leaves are marked, which gives the whole plant a bronzy
tinge. The inner leaves appear as if dusted with red on a white
ground. Both this and the preceding kind have been superseded
by the new Improved White-seeded variety.

Tannhauser. — A compact variety, with thick, rounded leaves
and round head, rather like the Large Normandy Lettuce, but
differing from it entirely in the colour of its seed, which is
black.

White Stone Cabbage Lettuce. — A compact plant, with
crimped, wavy leaves of a light green, almost yellow, colour,
tinged with light brown on the top of the head, which is of
medium size, close, and somewhat flattened. It is a good summer
variety, hardy, and slow in running to seed. The only fault it has
is its slightly bitter flavour. Seed white.

De Zelande. — A handsome and compact variety of Cabbage
Lettuce, of a very pale yellow colour, remarkably like the Berlin
White Summer Lettuce, except that the head is almost ovoid in
shape, being longer than broad. Seed black.

In America they cultivate a very large number of varieties of
Cabbage Lettuce, which, though not exactly similar, have many
points in common with our own : —

The Yellow-seeded Butter and Market Gardener's Private
Stock Lettuces are evidently closely related to the All the Year
Round, or White Berlin Summer Lettuce.

Premium Cabbage Lettuce, Large Yellow Surehead
Lettuce, Philadelphia Butter Lettuce, Silver-ball Lettuce,
Black-seeded Butter Lettuce have many points of similarity
with the Large White Stone Summer Lettuce.

Fox Sterling Lettuce, Hubbard's Market Lettuce, Golden
Queen Lettuce : closely allied to the All the Year Round Lettuce.

Russian Lettuce, St. Louis Butter Lettuce, Deacon or
San Francisco Market Lettuce: closely related to Imperial or
Asiatic Lettuce.

Myer's All-Right Lettuce resembles the Red-edged Trocadero
Lettuce.

Large Loaf Lettuce, Maximum Lettuce, and California
Cream Butter Lettuce resemble the Large Green Lettuce.

Large Brown and Hardhead Lettuce are in most respects
the same as Brown Stonehead Lettuce.

Chartier Lettuce, India-head Lettuce, Marble-head Mam-
moth Lettuce resemble the White Silesian Lettuce.

CABBAGE LETTUCE 387

Eureka Lettuce, Sugarloaf Lettuce, Tomhannock Lettuce,
all red-coloured Lettuces, with a strong resemblance to the Brown
Batavian Lettuce.

Drumhead Lettuce, Detroit Market Gardeners Lettuce,
Nonpareil Lettuce, Wonderful Lettuce have many points of
similarity with the Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce.

Hamilton Market Lettuce and Golden Curled Lettuce
closely resemble the Blond Stonehead Lettuce.

Gardener's Favourite Lettuce, Moonshine Lettuce, the
Morse Lettuce, Perpetual Lettuce, Hanson Lettuce, Tilton's
White Star Lettuce, New Large-head Lettuce, Large India
Lettuce, Early Curled Silesia Lettuce are very nearly related to
the Simpson Early Lettuce.

Hardy Green Winter Lettuce, Black-Seeded Tennis-ball
Lettuce, and Salamander Lettuce resemble nearly Versailles
Blond Lettuce.

Boston Market Lettuce appears to be extremely similar to De
Zelande Lettuce, or at least intermediate between that and the
All the Year Round Lettuce.

COS LETTUCES

French, Laitues romaines. German, Romischer oder Binde Salat. Flemish, Ezelsoor
salat. Dutch, Roomsche latouw. Italian, Lattuga romana. Spanish, Lechuga
romana. Portuguese, Alface romana.

The Cos Lettuces are distinguished from the common Cabbage
Lettuces by the shape of their leaves, which are elongated and
almost always somewhat spoon-shaped, and also by the usually
large size of the midrib, which in some varieties forms a regular
white, tender, and very thick chard.

They are grown in exactly the same way as the Cabbage
Lettuces, only that, as they do not naturally form a head so well
as these, gardeners are in the habit of tying up the leaves together
in order to blanch the inner ones. There are winter, spring, and
summer varieties of Cos Lettuces. For forcing, and for early
sowing in the open air, the preference is given to the White Paris
Cos, next to which come the Green Paris Cos and the Gray Paris
Cos, all of which are closely allied kinds. For summer culture the
same varieties may be employed, and also the Florence Cos, or
Magnum Bonum (Romaine Alphange), the Giant Cos (Romaine
Monstreuse), and the Brown, or Bath, Cos (Romaine Brune
Anglaise). Lastly, for winter culture in the open air, the Green
Winter Cos, the Royal Green, and the Blood-red Winter Cos are
the kinds most commonly selected.

388

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Green Winter Cos Lettuce.

I. WINTER VARIETIES OF Cos LETTUCE

Green Winter Cos Lettuce (Black-seeded}. — Leaves of young

plant smooth, dark green, rather flat and rounded, but narrowed

towards the end ; margin entire, with the exception of a few teeth

on the lower third part. Full-grown
plant compact, with the leaves closely
pressed against one another, erect, and
slightly turned back at the ends ; blade
of the leaf shortly spathulate or oval,
smooth, and of a very light green colour,
with a glazed appearance; veins numerous
and very distinctly marked. The head
forms of itself without being tied up ;
it is not tall, but is firm, compact, and
very solid. This is a very old and very
excellent variety; it is very little affected
by frosty weather, and yields a heavy
crop for the moderate size of the
plants.

The English Hardy White Winter

Cos is only a paler-coloured sub-variety of this kind.

Royal Green Winter Cos Lettuce (Black-seeded}. — Leaves

of young plant shortly spathulate, slightly crimped and twisted

towards the base, rather deeply toothed on the lower two-thirds

of the margin, and a uniform dark green. Full-grown plant

vigorous, with light green shining leaves, oblong, slightly crimped,

somewhat turned back at the

edges, until the head begins to

form, when they turn the other

way, becoming spoon-shaped as

they overlap one another; head

rather tall, solid, and blanching

without being tied up. This

variety is chiefly distinguished

from the preceding one by the

rosette which it forms before

heading being less spreading,

stiffer, and of a paler and more

glistening green colour.

Red Winter Cos Lettuce

(Black-seeded). — Young plant Royal Green Wmter Cos Lettuce'

deeply tinged with brown red ; leaves spathulate, flat, smooth, and

slightly toothed at the base. Head of full-grown plant tall, long,

entirely green with the exception of a brown-red tinge on the top ;

outer leaves long, rounded at the ends, very entire, nearly flat, and

COS LETTUCES

389

Red Winter Cos Lettuce.

very deeply coloured with red-brown. It is only in the centre of
the plant, near the head, that any green colour is visible. This
variety generally heads very well without being tied up. It is
hardy, productive, and remarkably slow in running to seed. It
is also so constant in character that
it is hardly ever found to vary or
degenerate.

II. SPRING AND SUMMER
VARIETIES OF Cos LETTUCE

Green Paris Cos, or Buckland

Cos, Lettuce ( White - seeded}. —

Young plant dark green ; leaves

erect, with white midribs, elongated,

spathulate, and very much toothed

towards the base. Head of full-
grown plant long, pointed, or slightly

blunt, showing three well-marked

faces ; outer leaves erect around the

head, narrow, rather dark glossy green, and with very white midribs.

A fast-growing kind, not so large as the White Paris Cos, but

somewhat earlier.

Green Limagne Cos Lettuce (White-seeded}. — The young

plant has dark green erect leaves, folded at the edge, angular, and

toothed at the base. The head is round and very firm ; the leaves

strong, crimped, a lighter
colour than those of the
Green Paris. A vigorous
and quick grower.

Gray Paris Cos Lettuce
( White-seeded}. — The young
plant of this variety differs
only from that of the White
Paris Cos in that it is de-
cidedly darker in colour.
Head of full-grown plant
well rounded at the top, and
more thick-set than that of
either the preceding or the
following kind ; outer leaves

Green Paris Cos Lettuce. larf G> *>Unded at the end

and not so light-coloured

as those of the White Paris Cos ; those forming the head are
very much hollowed out like a spoon. This variety is chiefly
grown under cloches or bell-glasses, and for that mode of culture

390

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

it is generally preferred by the Paris market-gardeners to all

other kinds.

White Paris Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded}. — Young plant pale

green ; leaves rather erect, spathulate, toothed and slightly crimped

towards the base, and broad and
rounded at the ends. Head of
full-grown plant long and tall,
but very thick, blunt or rounded
at the top, and with the faces
or angles less marked than those
of the Green Paris Cos ; outer
leaves spathulate, large, luxuriant,
light green, and rather crimped ;
those forming the head are always
folded, of a very pale green
colour, and with the midrib white

Gray Paris Cos Lettuce. and Ver7 prominent. The most

grown of all the Cos Lettuces,

and perhaps of all other kinds, it appears to be very well adapted
for all temperate climates, and even for warm ones, as it is grown
all over the world. It likes rich soil and plentiful waterings, and is
grown under bell-glasses or cloches for an early crop, and in the
open air from April to the end of autumn. When carefully

White Paris Cos Lettuce
(^ natural size).

Early White Self-folding Trianon
Cos Lettuce.

attended to, it heads in seven or eight weeks after being planted
out in the open air, and keeps the head firm for a remarkably
long time. A well-grown plant will often weigh over 6J Ib.

Early White Self-folding Trianon Cos Lettuce (White-
seeded^. — A very pretty strain of the Paris White Cos Lettuce, from

COS LETTUCES

which it differs only when nearly full grown in its whiter colour,
leaves more crimped, broader ribs, and in being several days earlier.

Large White Du Chesnay Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded}.— The
young plant is pale, slightly yellow-green ; the leaves small, narrow,
stiff, erect, toothed at the edges, and twisted at the base. A Paris
White Cos of larger size and about a fortnight later. Grows well
under glass bells. Grown in the open air it is not liable to rust.

Ground Cos Lettuce (Black-seeded}. — Young plant short and
compact, of a uniform, rather dark, clear green
colour ; leaves stiff, short, oval, slightly spoon-
shaped, erect, and with a very prominent white
midrib. Full-grown plant very thick-set, and
of a dark, shining green colour ; head, short,
very close and hard, commencing so low down
that it appears to be partially buried in the
ground ; outer leaves very stiff, somewhat
pointed, almost always folded in two and
curved back outwardly, slightly crimped, with
the midrib stout, stiff, and very large for the
size of the leaves. The leaves of this variety
are very crisp, and leave a slightly bitter after-taste which is not
disagreeable. The plant bears frosty weather well, if slightly
protected. As the head is very solid, the crop is pretty heavy
for the small size of the plants.

Ground Cos Lettuce
($ natural size).

III. SUMMER VARIETIES OF Cos LETTUCE

/%'•

White-seeded Florence, or Magnum Bonum, Cos Lettuce.—

Young plant, of a dull, pale green ; leaves broad, oval, slightly

toothed, and faintly tinged with
light brown at the base, and also
on the margins and veins. The
full-grown plant does not head
well unless it is tied up. Outer
leaves very large, and especially
very broad, rounded in outline,
broadly crimped, with the edges
turned backwards, and forming
a large and very open rosette ;
they are of a gray-green colour,
very slightly tinged with light
brown at the edges and on
the parts exposed to the sun.
The average diameter of well-

Florence, or Magnm Boum, Cos Lettuce gr°Wn PlantS
(i natural size). thereabout.

is l6 in<> Or

392

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Black-seeded Florence, or Magnum Bonum, Cos Lettuce. —

Leaves of young plant spathulate, large, longish, bluntly toothed,

and tinged with pale
brown at the base and
on the veins and edges.
The plant is throughout
much paler in colour
than the young plant
of the preceding variety.
Head of full-grown
plant elongated, seldom
forming unless tied up;
outer leaves very long
and broad, pale green
or yellow, slightly tinged
with russet on the parts
exposed to the sun,
finely crimped, more
pointed, and apparently
White Long-standing Cos Lettuce. thinner in texture, than

those of the preceding

kind. They also form a broader rosette, this being often 20 in.

in diameter.

White Long-standing Cos Lettuce (B lack-seeded}.— Young

plant pale green, leaves spathulate, with long stalks, curved

outwards and moderately

toothed. Resembles the

Florence Cos Lettuce, but

its leaves are more numerous

and stouter, and its head is

firmer. Much grown in the

south-west of France, and

it keeps its heads well during

the hot summer, when some

popular varieties head badly

and run rapidly to seed.
Balloon Cos Lettuce

(Black - seeded). — Young

plant a pale, clear green

colour ; leaves erect, rather

narrow, toothed on the en-
tire margin, the teeth on

the lower half being long

and sharp, while those to-
wards the end of the leaf are faintly marked ; the veins of the

leaf, also, are not very clearly defined there. Full-grown plant

Balloon Cos Lettuce (£ natural size).

COS LETTUCES

393

very vigorous, with a large, broad, rounded head, slightly flattened
at the top, full and firm ; outer leaves not so much crimped as
those of the White Paris Cos, but greener in hue and more
rounded at the ends. The White Paris Cos heads sooner than
the Balloon Cos, but the latter is considered hardier, and is very
suitable for sowing in autumn. It is also a remarkably productive
variety.

Monstrous Brown Cos Lettuce (Black-seeded}. — Young
plant vigorous growing, half-spreading ; leaves fairly large, broad
from the base, pale dull green, tinged with light brown on the veins
and edges ; margin slightly sinuated or bluntly toothed. Head
of full-grown plant oblong, not forming well unless tied up ; outer
leaves large, numerous, in a broad and very open rosette, almost
spreading on the ground ; they are entire in outline, but the edges
are twisted and waved, and the surface is crimped and puffed from
the midrib towards the edges. All the parts exposed to the sun
are very deeply tinged with russet, while the rest of the plant
is of a wan dark green. The general appearance of the plant is
shining, as if varnished, not dull like the Florence varieties. It is
often 20 in. in diameter.

Brown, or Bath, Cos Lettuce ( White-seeded}. — Young plant of
a dull green colour ; leaves spathulate, deeply toothed to the very
end, and tinged with red
on the edges and veins.
Head of full-grown plant
oblong, almost pointed,
pale green, slightly tinged
with dull brown ; outer
leaves rather spreading,
entire, not much crimped,
finely toothed on the edges,
and tinged on all the parts
exposed to the sun with
pale brown on a gray-green
ground. A well - grown
plant is about 14 in. in
diameter. This is an ex-
ceedingly hardy kind, and
does well under summer or autumn culture ; it sometimes also
withstands the winter. Although it heads well enough when
left to itself, it is usually tied up to increase the number and
expedite the production of tender blanched leaves. The contrast
of colour in the parts of the leaves which are bronzed by being
exposed to the sun and those parts which are covered is very
striking in this variety. This, and the following variety, are
especially suitable for winter Lettuces in England.

White-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce.

394

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce
(£ natural size).

Black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce. — Young plant somewhat
paler than that of the Common or White-seeded Bath Cos, but
similar in other respects. The full-grown plant does not differ

very materially from the pre-
ceding kind, except in the colour
of the seed ; however, there is a
very apparent disparity between
the two varieties in the habit of
the plants, and the manner in
which the leaves overlap one
another, those of the black -
seeded kind being shorter,
forming a rosette, which spreads
more broadly on the ground, and
being slower in standing erect to
form the head ; they are also
more toothed at the edges. The
two varieties are alike in produc-
tiveness, earliness, and quality.
Spotted, or Aleppo, Cos Lettuce (White-seeded} — Leaves of
young plant half-erect, stiff, oblong, toothed at the edges of the
lower half, of a light green colour, which is almost entirely hidden
by a multitude of brown-red spots, which are usually very small
and often confluent. The full-grown plant does not head unless
tied up. Outer leaves entirely spreading, almost always folded
along the midrib, very much plaited, undulated, and twisted, and
very much tinged with deep brown-red. When artificially blanched,
the leaves of this variety ex-
hibit the same red variegation
on a white ground as those
of the Dark-red Cabbage
Lettuce. The plant is about
16 in. in diameter.

Improved Spotted Cos
Lettuce (Black-seeded} —
Young plant deeply tinged
with brown-red on a green
ground ; leaves rather short,
entire, rounded, spathulate.
It is much dwarfer and more
compact than the young plant
of the preceding variety, and
also not so red. The full-
grown plant has erect leaves, closely pressed against one another,
and surrounding an oblong, short, and rather compact head.
Outer leaves stiff, rounded or blunt at the ends, not much crimped,

Spotted, or Aleppo, Cos Lettuce
(£ natural size).

COS LETTUCES

395

a deep green colour, with brown spots and blotches. This Lettuce
heads of itself, but the produce is better when it is tied up,
and it then yields a large quantity of salad for the small size
of the plant, which does not exceed IO or 12 in. in diameter. This
variety differs entirely from the preceding one in having all its
leaves erect before they form the head, giving the plant somewhat
the shape of a funnel, while in the other kind the leaves are
spreading, and even turned backwards.

Sprouting Cos Lettuce (White-seeded).— Introduced from the
Pamirs of Central Asia,
it is very hardy, and
proof against drought.
The leaves are long, and
a dull light green. It
does not form a head,
but produces numerous
leafy tender shoots, which
issue vertically from the
axils of the lower leaves.
As a salad it is excellent
in default of better.

We shall now proceed
to mention a few other
varieties, which, although
inferior in importance to
those already described,
nevertheless possess a
certain amount of merit.

Brunoy White Cos
Lettuce. — A rather leafy
plant, not heading unless
tied up ; leaves somewhat folded, entire at the edges and turned
back at the ends. This variety grows to a considerable size, but
runs to seed rather rapidly. There are both a white-seeded and
a black-seeded form of it, the latter of which appears to be the
same as the English variety named Ivery's Nonesuch.

Romaine Blonde de Niort.— This fine large variety is grown in
Vendee, where it is highly esteemed. It very much resembles the
Black-seeded Florence Cos, but runs to seed rather sooner. The
seed is white.

Romaine de Chalabre. — A very good kind of winter Cos for the
south of France, and even at Paris it bears ordinary winters well.
In appearance it rather resembles the Green Paris Cos, but it grows
much larger, and has the leaves tolerably toothed in the lower half.

Romaine Epinerolle. — A variety almost intermediate between
the Green and the White Paris Cos Lettuces, and apparently hardier

Sprouting Cos Lettuce.

396 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

than either, but at the same time not so tender or delicate in
flavour. It is especially suitable for the south of France, where it
can be grown in winter.

Romaine Frisee Bayonnaise ; R. Parisienne ; R. du Mexique.
— Under these three names two or three kinds of Cos Lettuces are
grown which are rather like the Brown Batavian Lettuce. Like it,
they are of vigorous and rapid growth, but somewhat leathery in
texture. They are suitable for warm climates, and should be tied
up in order to blanch the leaves and make them tender.

Romaine Chicon Jaune Superieure. — This may be considered
as merely a sub-variety of the White-seeded Florence Cos, from
which it is distinguished by having a shorter and entirely light-
coloured head.

Magdalena Cos Lettuce. — Closely allied to the Giant Cos, but
taller and lighter in colour. The leaves are large, pale, and tinged
with red, especially at the edges. The plant almost heads of itself
without being tied up. The head is not very solid. Seed black.

Dwarf White-heart Cos Lettuce. — Of American origin ;
resembles the White Paris Cos Lettuce.

SMALL or CUTTING LETTUCES

French, Laitues a couper. German, Schnitt-Salat. Dutch, Snij salade. Italian,
Lattuga da taglio. Spanish, Lechuguino.

A certain number of varieties of Lettuce never form a head, but
compensate, as it were, for this by producing a great abundance
of leaves, which grow again after being cut, thus furnishing a large
supply of green vegetables in a limited space. These are known
by the general name of Cutting Lettuces, and a certain number of
kinds are in cultivation. Sometimes some of the Early White
Cabbage Lettuces are treated as Cutting Lettuces, especially the
Crisped Lettuce and the Georges Lettuce, but the varieties which
we are about to describe never form a head, and consequently can
never be grown except as Cutting Lettuces.

White Cutting Lettuce ( White-seeded}. — A variety with spathu-
late leaves, which become shorter and rounder as the plant advances
in growth, with almost entire edges, slightly waved and toothed
towards the base. If the leaves are not cut when the plant is young,
the central ones become folded and rumpled so as to form a kind
of heart, but not a true head. The plant soon runs to seed. This
variety is chiefly grown in frames.

Black-seeded Cutting Lettuce. — A very distinct variety,
forming a tuft 10 to 12 in. broad, dense and matted, and somewhat
resembling a Curled Endive. Leaves cut into rounded lobes,
twisted and puckered, of a rather dark green on the upper surface
and somewhat gray underneath. This is a hardy and very productive

SMALL OR CUTTING LETTUCES

397

kind, and is well adapted for growing in the open air. The leaves
are entirely green at the ends and edges where they are exposed
to the sun and air, but elsewhere they are white, like Endive leaves.
Beauregard Lettuce. — A distinct variety, with leaves deeply
cut and toothed at the edges, and a fairly well-formed head. It is

Black-seeded Cutting Lettuce
(£ natural size).

Laciniated Beauregard Cabbage
Lettuce.

sometimes called California Lettuce, but this name should be dis-
carded in order to avoid a confusion with the California Curled
Lettuce described below.

California Curled Lettuce (White-seeded). — Young plant of
light green, with rounded leaves, finely cut edges ; the central leaves
are folded into a barely perceptible head. It is an intermediate
variety between the Cabbage Lettuce and the Cutting Lettuces.
It grows into a broad rosette like an Endive. The leaves are light
green, entire for the largest portion of their surface, and much
puckered and folded at the edges. It is slow in running to seed.
The Grand Rapids Lettuce comes very near it, but is less curly.

California Curled Lettuce.

American Curled Lettuce.

American Curled, or Gathering1, Lettuce. — A kind of Batavian
Lettuce, with the leaves twisted, puckered, folded at the margin,
and strongly tinged with coppery red at the edges. It is distinct
and pleasing in appearance, but does not head well. It is used as

398 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

a green salad, like the Early Simpson Lettuce, and sometimes the
first leaves are plucked off very early, with the view of making
a later gathering of the new leaves which are to follow, or of
the sprouts or shoots which grow from the axils. From this it
derives its name of "Gathering Lettuce."

New Egyptian Sprouting Lettuce ( White-seeded}. — Resembles
the American Curled Lettuce, but is lighter in colour, and the
leaves are longer and less crimped. It is remarkable for the
abundance of its shoots. These shoots are composed of only a
few long narrow leaves, and are very like the Cutting Lettuces
raised on hot-beds. Their use is the same.

Oak-leaved Cutting Lettuce. — The plant forms a tallish rosette,
tufty and rather full in the centre, 12 to 14 in. broad, composed
of very numerous leaves, which are rather long, light green in
colour, divided into rounded lobes, sinuated, and broader and far
less undulated than those of the Black-seeded Cutting Lettuce.
This variety is hardy and bears the winter well. It grows very
well again after being cut. Seed black.

A variety named Artichoke-leaved Cos Lettuce is sometimes
grown. This is very like the Oak-leaved variety, differing from
it chiefly in the brown tint of its leaves.

Endive-leaved Cutting Lettuce. — Leaves spreading in a rosette,
light-coloured, curled and crisped like those of the Small Green
Curled Winter Endive. This variety is tender to eat, very hardy,
and very good for cutting. It bears the winter well. The seed is
black, and is the smallest of all kinds of Lettuce seed.

There is another variety which has a fuller heart, but the leaves
are not so much curled, and are of a light grayish or silver hue. It
is named the English Endive-leaved Cutting Lettuce.

There is an American variety of Cutting Lettuce which is very
distinct from any of the preceding kinds, named the Boston Curled
Lettuce. The leaves of this variety are of a light green colour,
spreading into a rosette, and are cut, curled, and puckered at the
edges like the leaves of a Curled Endive. It is a summer Lettuce
and has black seed.

ASPARAGUS LETTUCE

Lactuca angustana, Hort.

Leaves long, very narrow, lanceolate, never forming a head. The
plant soon runs to seed, and it is the thick swollen stems that are
used as a table vegetable, gathered when they are about a foot
high. This plant is very distinct, and resembles no other Cos
Lettuce. The Lactuca cracoviensis, Hort., is a form of the Asparagus
Lettuce with reddish stems and bronzy leaves. It is grown and
used in the same way as the common form. Notwithstanding their

ASPARAGUS LETTUCE

399

very peculiar appearance and the Latin names which they have
received from horticulturists, these two plants are nothing but
modified forms of the cultivated Lettuce (Lactuca sativa, L.). The
indications obtained from the flowers and seeds leave no doubt
whatever on this point.

PERENNIAL LETTUCE

Lactuca perennis^ L. Composites.

Native of Southern Europe. — This plant, which is common in
the wild state on light or calcareous
soils all over the central districts
of France, has been highly spoken
of as a vegetable for table use.
The part eaten is the leaves, which
are very much cut and form their
rosettes in the early part of the
spring. The plants are gathered
where they grow (as Dandelion-
plants are gathered in the meadows
in various parts of France), but not
in sufficient quantity to be sent to
market. They do not make a bad
salad, but the produce of the plant
is so trifling that it is hardly worth

cultivating. The seed is black, elongated, and small,
germinating power lasts for three years.

Perennial Lettuce (£ natural size;
detached leaf, \ natural size).

Its

LOVAGE, or LOVACHE

Levisticum officinale, Koch ; Ligusticum Levisticum, L. Umbellifera*

French, Ache de montagne. German, Liebstock. Spanish, Apio de monte.

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — A very tall plant with
large, shining, dark green radical leaves, which are twice or thrice
divided into pinnate segments, entire and wedge-shaped at the base
and incised lobed in the upper part. Stem thick, hollow, erect,,
dividing at the top into opposite whorled branches ; flowers yellow,
in umbels ; seeds strongly aromatic, hollow and boat-shaped on one
side, and convex on the other, with three prominent ribs. Their
germinating power lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — The plant is propagated either from seed or by
division of the roots. The seed is sown as soon as it is ripe — that
is, about August. The young plants are planted out permanently,
either in autumn or early in spring, in good deep, moist, well-
manured soil. The division of the roots should be made in spring.

40O

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

A plantation will last several years without requiring to be renewed.
When growing, the plants are treated exactly like Angelica-plants.
USES. — At the present day Lovage is almost exclusively used
in the manufacture of confectionery ; formerly the leaf-stalks and
bottom of the stems were eaten, blanched like Celery.

MAIZE, or INDIAN CORN

Zea Mays, L. Graminea.

French, Mais sucre. German^ Mai's. Flemish and Dutch, Turksche tarwe. Italian,
Grano turco. Spanish, Malz. Portuguese, Milho.

Native of America. — Annual. — The Maize plant, or Indian Corn,
was introduced in the sixteenth century from America into Europe,

where its cultivation
soon became very
general, and where it
now occupies an im-
portant place among the
cereal crops which
furnish food for man.
In many places the heads
or " cobs " are gathered
while the seeds are
young and tender, and
are parched and eaten
as a delicacy, but it is
almost exclusively in
the United States of
America that the Maize
is regarded as a regular
table vegetable and
grown specially for that
purpose. Almost all the
varieties may be eaten
as they are in America — that is, boiled before the seeds have
become hard and floury, and while the pulp of true interior is
still in the condition of a soft paste ; but there are some kinds
which are superior to the rest for this purpose, their seeds being
sweeter and more tender, and which are known by the general
name of Wrinkled Sweet Maize. These are distinguished by the
very peculiar appearance of the seed, the skin of which is wrinkled,
shrunken, and almost transparent when ripe, instead of being hard,
swollen, and smooth, like that of other kinds. Its germinating
power lasts for two years.

In the United States, where this plant is highly esteemed as a
table vegetable, there are at least a dozen distinct varieties grown,

Maize, or Indian Corn (| natural size).

MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN

401

differing from one another chiefly in size and earliness. Most of
these have white seed. The best varieties are : —

Extra Early Dwarf. — This is one of the best for cultivation in
Central Europe.

Early Minnesota. — A very early kind, growing from 3 to 4 ft.
high.

The Early Crosby and the Large Early Eight-rowed. — These
are somewhat larger kinds than the preceding one, with a longer
head, but about ten days later.

Concord. — A stronger growing kind, of excellent quality.

Stowell's Evergreen Late. — A later kind, but a good bearer,
and keeping the heads tender and delicate for a longer time.

Besides these may be mentioned the Early Narraganset Dwarf,
the ripe seeds of which are red, and the Sweet Mexican, which has
black seeds.

CULTURE. — The Maize is sown in the open air about the same
time as Kidney Beans — that is, as soon as the ground has become
somewhat warmed, and there is no longer any danger of frost All
the attention it requires is the occasional use of the hoe when
the plants are commencing to grow, and occasional waterings when
they have become pretty strong. The earliest kinds sometimes
yield a few well-grown heads about the end of July, and heads may
be had somewhat earlier, if a sowing is made in a hot-bed and the
young plants put out in the open ground about May 25th.
By making successional sowings, and employing varieties of
different degrees of earliness, fresh heads may be had up to the
arrival of the first frosts.

USES. — The head or " cob " is boiled and served up, either
entire, or the seeds are taken off and served up like Kidney Beans.
The heads are also gathered when very young and small and
before the flower opens, and are pickled in vinegar like Gherkins.

CURLED, or CURLED-LEAVED,
MALLOW

Malva crispa, L. Malvacece.

French, Mauve frisee. German, Krausblattrige
Malve. Italian, Malva crespa.

Native of the East. — Annual. — A
large plant, with an erect, simple, or
slightly branched stem, 4 to over 6 ft.
high, and leafy to the top. Leaves
large, round, light green in colour, very
elegantly curled and puckered at the
edges ; flowers white, small, in long
leafy terminal clusters ; seeds brown,

Curled Mallow.
26

402

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

kidney-shaped, with a rough and irregular surface. Their germi-
nating power lasts for five years. The seed is sown in April,
either where the plants are to stand or in a seed-bed, from which
the young plants are transplanted when they are from 2 to 4 in.
high. They require no particular attention. When this plant is
once grown in a garden it generally continues to reproduce itself
from self-sown seed. No part of the plant is eaten, but the leaves
are sometimes used for garnishing desserts, etc., and a few plants
may be worth having in the kitchen-garden.

JEWS' MALLOW

Corchorus olitorius, L. Tiliacece.

French, Corette potagere. German, Gemlise-Corchorus, Nusskraut.

Native of Africa. — Annual.— Stem cylindrical, smooth, more or
less branched at the base, and about 20 in. high ; leaves alternate,
broader near the base, narrowing for a considerable length to a
point, and sharply toothed ; flowers yellow, axillary ; seed-vessels
cylindrical, rather long, and smooth ; seeds very angular, pointed,
greenish, and very small. Their germinating power lasts for five
years. As this plant is a native of a very warm country, it does not
succeed very well in the climate of Paris. The seed is sown in the
open ground, in a warm position, in May, or may be sown earlier in
a hot-bed. The plant, however, is more valued in tropical countries,
where it can be grown in the open air without any trouble. The
leaves are used for salad while they are young and tender.

MARIGOLD (POT)

Calendula officinalis, L. Composites.

French^ Souci des jardins. German, Ringelblume.

Native of Southern Europe. — Annual. — Leaves lanceolate,

oblong, entire, rough, and of a rather
gray-green ; stems short, branching
from the base, and bearing broad
orange-coloured flower-heads ; seeds
gray, much wrinkled, covered with
small round protuberances, almost
spiny, and curved into the shape of
a bow or ring. Their germinating
power lasts for three years. The seed
is sown where the plants are to stand,
in March or April, in drills 14 to
16 in. apart, and the seedlings are
thinned out to a distance of 10 to-
12 in. from one another in the drills.
Marigold (Pot) (,v natural size). The plants commence to flower in

MARIGOLD (POT)

403

July, and continue to bloom all through the summer and far into
autumn. The flowers are used in some culinary preparations,
for which purpose they are gathered during the summer, dried
in the shade, and kept until wanted. They are also used for
colouring butter.

.

POT, or PERENNIAL, MARJORAM

Origanum vulgar e, L. Labiatce

French, Marjolaine vivace. German, Perennirender Englischer Majoran. Flemish,
Orego. Danish, Merian.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This is a very common wild
plant in France, especially on the borders of woods. It forms a
branching tuft or clump,
20 in. to 2 ft. high, bearing
terminal clusters of pink
or lilac flowers. Seeds
very small, oval, and of
reddish or dark -brown
colour. Their germinating
power lasts for five years.

CULTURE. — This is a
very hardy plant, and will
grow in almost any kind
of soil, so that it is as
easily cultivated as Thyme.
The seed is sown in spring
or in autumn, in drills, or
to form edgings, which
will last for many years
without requiring any
attention.

USES. — The leaves are
used for seasoning.

There is a variety
which has short erect stems, bearing large clusters of almost
white flowers, and forming a very compact tuft not more than
from 12 to 14 in. high. This kind, which is named Dwarf Pot
Marjoram, is especially adapted for forming edgings, and always
comes true from seed.

Some unscrupulous seedsmen of the South of France sell
under the name of Perennial Marjoram the seed of Calamintha
nepeta, commonly known as Mountain Mint, which grows
abundantly in Provence on hills and along the roads. The
difference, however, is easy to recognise.

Pot, or Perennial, Marjoram (^ natural size ;
detached branch, natural size).

404

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

SWEET, or ANNUAL, MARJORAM

Origanum Majorana, L. ; Majorana hortensis, Mcench. Labiate.

French^ Marjolaine a coquille. German. Majoran. Flemish and Dutch, Marjolijn.
Italian^ Maggiorana. Spanish, Mejorana. Portuguese, Manjerona.

Native of the East. — Perennial, but grown in gardens as an
annual. — A plant with an erect, square, branching stem. Leaves

opposite, roundish, of a
grayish green colour; flowers
small, whitish, in rounded
clusters with spoon-shaped
bracts; seeds small, roundish
or slightly oblong, of a
more or less dark brown
colour. Their germinating
power lasts for three years.
CULTURE. — The seed
may be sown at the end
of March or early in April.
The plant springs up
rapidly, so that the leaves
may commence to be
gathered in the course of

fc-^25«W^— May< The flowers aPPear

-SgBH^^

about the end of June or
early in July.

USES. — The leaves and
the ends of the shoots are

used for seasoning, for which they are highly esteemed, especially

in the south of France.

Sweet, or Annual, Marjoram (^ natural size;
detached branch, natural size).

MELON
Cucumis Melo, L. Curcurbitace&.

French, Melon. German, Melone. Flemish and Dutch, Meloen. Italian. Popone.
Spanish, Melon. Portuguese, Melao.

Annual. — A native of the warm parts of Asia, and cultivated
from a very remote period of antiquity, the Melon is not now
certainly known to exist in the wild state, but it is supposed that
the original or typical plant, if it is still to be found anywhere,
must have an oblong fruit like that of the Persian Melon.

It is a plant with herbaceous, slender, flexible, almost cylindrical
stems, furnished with tendrils, by means of which they attach
themselves to surrounding objects, and climb when they meet with
a suitable support ; otherwise they creep along the ground. The
leaves, leaf-stalks, and stems are rough, with short thick hairs,

MELON 405

which have almost the texture of true spines. The shape and size
of the leaves are very variable, and there is no unvarying relation
between the size of the leaves and that of the fruit in any one kind
or variety. Most usually the leaves are kidney-shaped, rounded,
and often folded or waved on the margin ; frequently they are
distinctly cut into three or five lobes, and sometimes the divisions
even reach the depth of half the leaf ; the margin is smooth and
unbroken in some varieties, and toothed and spiny in others. The
Melon is a monoecious plant ; that is, male and female flowers,
distinct from each other, are produced on the same plant. These
flowers are rather small, and have a yellow corolla with five
divisions and from f to about ij in. in diameter. The female
flower is situated on the top of the ovary, which, in almost all the
varieties, is ovoid, at the time when the flower expands, and is then
about as big as a good-sized hazel-nut, at least. Insects, especially
hive-bees and humble-bees, visit the flowers in great numbers, and
are almost always effectual in ensuring their fertilisation ; but when
the plants are forced, or when it is desired to preserve a certain
variety free from any intermixture with others, it is better to
fertilise the flowers artificially, by applying the pollen with a
camel-hair pencil, or direct from the male flower stripped of its
corolla. The fruit exhibits so much diversity of shape, size, and
colour, that it is difficult to give any general description of it. It
is met with under a variety of round, flat, and elongated shapes,
ranging from the form of a Pumpkin to that of a Cucumber. The
colour is equally diversified, from white to black, and passes
through every shade of green and yellow, not to mention variega-
tions of all kinds. The skin is often marked with wrinkles or
creases, which become, as it where, corky, and stand out in bold
relief on the surface. The fruit in this case is termed " netted," or
" net-veined." In other instances the fruit is covered with pro-
tuberances, more or less large and prominent, and known as
" scabs " or " warts." Lastly, the skin of the fruit is sometimes
perfectly smooth, and sometimes marked by a number of furrows,
extending from the stalk to the eye of the fruit. These furrows
have between them a certain number of ribs, usually from nine
to twelve, which are more or less prominent, according to the
variety. The seeds, which are smooth, usually white or yellowish,
flat and oblong, are collected together in the centre of the fruit,
and surrounded by a very watery pulp, full of soft filaments,
which are the umbilical cords of the seeds. The flesh, properly
so called, of the fruit is always watery, sweet, and usually highly
perfumed ; its colour is green, white, or orange. The relation
between the size of the fruit and that of the seed is not always
constant. The germinating power of the seed lasts for five years at
least, and often for more than ten years.

406 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

CULTURE. — Melons, like most other plants of the same natural
family, require good soil, in order to grow well and produce fine
fruit. They do not succeed well in the open air, except in very
rich alluvial soil, or in ground that has been abundantly manured.
All through the north of Europe they are only grown in the open
air in exceptional cases, and, as a rule, are cultivated exclusively
under glass. We shall, therefore, dwell more particularly upon this
mode of culture.

The Melon requires for its growth a moderately high tempera-
ture. This should almost always exceed 54° Fahrenheit ; and the
quality of the fruit is always better if the mean temperature is kept
raised while they are ripening. Under the most favourable con-
ditions, the plant requires four or five months to complete its
growth, from which it may be seen that in the climate of Paris
there is no positive certainty of ripening the fruit without the aid
of artificial heat, and consequently they are almost always grown
there in hot-beds. During nine or ten months of the year the
market-gardeners about Paris have the plants under cultivation,
and these furnish a supply of ripe fruit for six full months. The
frames of Melon-pits being lined with manure, the plants are, in a
manner, forced, as they thus receive a greater amount of heat than
they would in the open air. Custom, however, has restricted the
meaning of " forcing," in the case of Melons, to this mode of
culture when commenced in January with the object of obtaining
ripe fruit in May, while an " early " crop is that which ripens in
June and early in July, and Melons "of the season," or the general
crop, are those which are gathered from the end of July up to
October. The details of the mode of culture are not exactly the
same for these three periods, nor are the same varieties of plants
grown in succession.

FORCING. — Melon-forcing commences, as we have just said, in
January, and the kinds usually forced at Paris are the Prescott
Small Early Frame and the Early Black Rock Melon. The seed
is sown on a warm hot-bed during the month of January, and the
fourth week after sowing the young plants are pricked out into
another hot-bed, from twenty-eight to thirty plants under each
light. During the whole of this early period of their growth the
plants require continual attention in giving them air as often as
that can be done with safety, occasionally watering them from a
fine rose, and especially in guarding against the condensation of
too much moisture on the lower part of the lights. In March they
are planted out on another hot-bed. Before doing so, they should
be stopped ; that is, the main stem should be cut above the second
leaf. After they have taken root, two lateral branches are quickly
produced, and these are allowed to grow until they have made eight
or ten leaves each, when they are cut above the sixth leaf, and at

MELON 407

this time fresh branches are growing, which almost always bear
fertile or female flowers. Various modes of stopping the plant
have been suggested, all of which may be useful under certain
circumstances, but the method which we have just described has
been generally adopted in the neighbourhood of Paris, as the most
simple and usually the most sure. There are two things which
should not be lost sight of in growing Melons. One is, that
vigorous, healthy, well-grown leaves are indispensable for the pro-
duction of fine and good fruit. Care should therefore be taken to
grow and maintain as many leaves as can find room in the portion
of the frame where the plant is, without depriving one another of a
due share of air and light. The other important point is, that it is
almost always necessary to expedite the branching of the plants, in
order to cause the fruit to set as soon as possible ; for if the plant
is allowed to follow its natural mode of growth, it may only com-
mence to produce fertile or female flowers too late for the fruit to ripen
properly. As soon as there are a few fruit set, the best of them, or
that which, from its strength and position, promises the best growth,
should be selected, and all the rest pinched off. In forcing Melons,
only one fruit is left on each plant. The last thing to be done is
to cut away any useless branches that may make their appearance,
and to ensure the symmetrical growth of the fruit by raising it off
the hot-bed on a tile or small board, turning it so that it may,
as far as possible, rest on the part where it is united to the stalk.
Melons forced in this way sometimes ripen in April, but cannot be
expected to do so with certainty until May.

EARLY CROP. — For this, the seed should be sown in the course
of February, up to the end of the month, and the plants are treated
in the same way as those which have just been described as "forced,"
the same operations being simply repeated three or four weeks later.
This is a more certain crop than the previous one, as there is
less danger of frosty weather and a better supply of light. The
same varieties are now sown, and also the Cantaloup Prescott a Fond
Blanc, a kind which is somewhat larger and more esteemed at Paris
than the other two varieties.

GENERAL CROP. — This crop is grown on by far the most
extensive scale at Paris, and is one in which the market-gardeners
excel. The seed is sown in the usual way in a hot-bed, and the
plants are planted out during May in hot-beds, which are generally
arranged in great numbers one before another, occupying a whole
square, or section of a garden. The varieties generally grown are
the Cantaloups Prescott a Fond Blanc, Fond Gris, and Fond Blanc
Argente ', sometimes the Rock, or Algerian, Cantaloup, and (rarely
now) the Common Melon (Melon Maraicher}. When the plants
are well rooted, the lights are completely removed, sooner or later,
according to the prevailing temperature, and thenceforward, until

408 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the fruit ripens, the plants are grown entirely in the open air.
The stopping, selection of the fruit, etc., are just the same as in
the two previous seasons ; however, the plants are generally allowed
to push a little more, and two fruit are often grown on the same
plant, but the second one is not started until the first is nearly full
grown. In this way the remaining strength of the plant is turned
to account without injuring the first fruit, which requires no further
supply of nutriment to increase its size, and has only to ripen the
quantity of matter which it has already assimilated.

OPEN-AIR CULTURE. — This method, which, as we have seen, is
very little used in the north of France, is, in fact, only a simplifica-
tion of what has just been described. The plants are raised in the
same way in a hot-bed, and planted out in rows of holes containing
a good forkful of manure, covered with mellow soil or compost.
For the first few days they are protected with cloches or bell-
glasses, or, in some places, with oiled paper or calico, supported
by thin rods bent in the form of an arch. As soon as the weather
becomes quite warm these coverings are removed, and the plants
are grown on in the open air without any protection.

In gathering Melons, it is not necessary to wait until the fruit is
perfectly ripe ; for if they are gathered a few days before that time
and kept in a dry, warm place, they will ripen there more or less
speedily, according to the temperature. It is not always easy to
know the exact time when a Melon ripens, as the indications vary
with the species, and are often not very plain. In a great many
varieties, when the fruit is near ripening, the stalk exhibits a
number of cracks (often deep ones), as if the fruit were about
to separate from the plant. In almost all kinds of Melons, ripe-
ness is indicated by the softening of the part of the fruit which
surrounds the eye, and which yields to the pressure of the finger.
A change in the colour of the fruit to a more or less decided yellow
tinge is also a sign of ripeness. When this change makes its
appearance, the fruit may be gathered and kept for a few days in
the fruit-room. Lastly, the perfume, which Melons commence to
give out almost as soon as they have attained their full size,
becomes stronger and more perceptible as they grow ripe ; so that
it is sometimes one and sometimes another of these indications,,
according to the variety, that must be taken as a guide in fixing
upon the proper time for gathering the fruit.

Strictly speaking, Melons are Melon of the market with pepper and

fruits, and among the best, but in salt. With us the difference in the

the Paris market-gardens they are kinds and the great difficulty of

commonly cultivated among the the culture make our garden Melons

vegetable crops. It is also the among our very choicest " dessert "

custom to eat before dinner, or in fruit. Slight though the distance be

the early part of it, the common between North France and London,

MELON

409

it is sufficient to cause a consider-
able difference in Melon culture, and
as this book is mainly intended for
English use, we give here an account
of the English culture. There are
various methods of Melon culture
in England, more especially since
it has become the rule to devote
a house or houses to their produc-
tion, and an interesting modifica-
tion of the common practice is
suggested by Mr. Iggulden in the
Garden : —

"Where they are grown princi-
pally in frames, certain rules have
of necessity to be followed, but in
houses the case is very different.
Much of this variance in practice
may be due to the construction of
the houses. As a rule, I believe that
the majority of Melon-growers have
a fixed routine from which they do
not deviate any more than they can
avoid, let the conveniences be what
they may. Some prefer to cultivate
Melons in large pots, not only the
earliest, but also throughout the
season. Others there are who plant
in mounds of soil placed on a slate
staging or iron gratings not far from
the hot-water pipes, some of the
latter, perhaps, being enclosed to
afford bottom-heat ; while many more,
probably the majority of cultivators,
make a good hot-bed with fermenting
material, and on this place a con-
tinuous ridge of soil in which to
start the plants. If all plans were
alike successful, there would be no
necessity nor room for criticism,
but, as it happens, the reverse is
the case, and really good fruits are
by no means plentiful. Let those
who doubt the truth of this assertion
taste all the fruits in a well-filled
Melon class at any exhibition, and
after that probably they will change
their opinion.. Several reasons for
Melon failures may be given, fore-
most among which should be placed

premature ripening; this may be
brought about either by the drying
process or by the actual collapse of
the plant. The fruits may be well
coloured and otherwise tempting
enough, but unless they are cut from
a healthy plant they are certain to
be unfit to eat. If we treat Melons
much as we should some species of
Orchids, that is to say, almost stew
them at one time and bake them at
another, we ought to expect failure.
Treat Melons as Cucumbers are
generally treated, and not only will
they yield a succession of crops, but
the fruits will be certain to be good.
One set of plants may be easily made
to perfect three crops of fruit, or I
might say a continuous crop, and the
last fruits to ripen may be as fine,
both as regards size and quality, as
the first. Two, or maybe three or
four, Cucumber-plants are by many
good cultivators considered ample
for an average-sized house, and a
similar number of Melons is also
quite enough. Instead of this, we
oftener see them planted 2 ft. and
even less distances apart, and con-
fusion is not unfrequently the conse-
quence. If the cultivator is fortunate
enough to set the first four fertile
flowers, or, at any rate, a fair crop on
the laterals thrown out by the main
stem, the result may be satisfactory
enough, but should he miss the
chance it is very doubtful if another
good one will offer. In the case of
the plants allowed to extend freely
and naturally, these will be con-
stantly developing healthy, fertile,
and easily set blossoms. Melons
grown like Cucumbers, and in a
house with them if need be, will be
continually gaining strength, and,
almost incredible as it may appear
to some, will set fruit naturally and
at different times. Instead, there-
fore, of a glut we may secure a suc-
cession from the same plant, and

4io

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

this is one strong recommendation
in favour of the practice which I
recommend. True, these liberally
treated plants are apt to produce
rather large fruit, which for market
purposes especially are not desirable,
but this difficulty may be obviated,
and need not deter any one from
adopting the plan.

" BOTTOM - HEAT. — Many , culti-
vators lay much stress upon the
necessity for bottom-heat, this being
afforded either by fermenting ma-
terial or enclosed hot-water pipes, or
the two combined. I shall try to
prove that not only are these not
absolutely necessary, but they are
also not unfrequently a source of
danger and a cause of failure. At
the outset a bed of heating material
composed, say, of stable manure and
leaves, will give the plants an excel-
lent start, and they will be apparently
altogether superior to those started
without such bottom-heat. All the
while the heat lasts and the material
is still in good condition the pro-
gress is satisfactory, but when the
mass of material is decayed and gets
sodden with moisture the tempera-
ture is materially lowered, and other
evils follow. When the plants stand
in most need of assistance, viz. when
heavy crops are being matured, they
get much less than at the earlier
stages. A collapse is frequently the
consequence, and the plants are
either necessarily "dried off," or the
fruits are cut and placed on hot
shelves to colour or ripen where the
bottom-heat is principally afforded
by enclosed pipes; these, with the
assistance, perhaps, of a small bed
of heating material, answer very well
for a time, but later on the material
in contact with the gratings or slates,
as the case may be, becomes very dry
and non-conducting — the bottom-
heat thus being wasted. This is by
no means an imaginary case, as I have

several times opened the chambers
formed over hot-water pipes in order,
if possible, to discover why we ob-
tained insufficient bottom-heat, and
they have proved unbearably hot.
Then, again, unless the valves are
so regulated as to admit of all the
heat being turned on to the bottom-
heat, the chances are that during
warm weather they are not heated
at all. In this case the difference
between the top and bottom-heat
may be much too divergent for the
well-being of the plant. A healthy
root-action should be maintained as
long as possible, and the bottom-
heat should be equal to the top-heat.
Without at present going into de-
tails, I may state that our Melons
are planted in raised square mounds
of soil enclosed by loose bricks. The
bottom-heat is not enclosed or con-
centrated in any way on the mounds,
but these being well exposed share
more or less in the fluctuations of
the top-heat. This plan entails more
labour in the shape of very frequent
waterings, varied with liquid manure,
and the progress at the outset is
rather slow, but in the end the stems
become strong and woody, and it
rarely happens that they fail.

"SoiL. — It may be a difficult
matter for some to completely change
their practice, even if they are dis-
posed to do so, but there is nothing
to prevent a modification, especially
with regard to the disposition of the
soil. Many seem to think that the
poorest and heaviest loam procurable
is the correct compost for Melons,
this being placed in a rounded ridge
on the top of the hot-bed and heavily
beaten down in that position. In
this case the loam has but little to
do with an ultimate success, but may
be partly blamed for a failure. It
cannot be kept properly moistened,
and the consequence is the roots
quickly leave it and find their way

MELON

411

down into the too rich manure under-
neath. Given a square ridge of
fairly stiff turfy loam, made tolerably
firm (this will render watering an
easy matter), and occasional slight
top-dressings with good soil to which
has been added a sprinkling of
manure, and no difficulty will be ex-
perienced in maintaining a healthy
surface root action. The best varie-
ties to cultivate ought in every case
to depend upon circumstances —
whether green-fleshed or scarlet-

fleshed, large, medium, or small,
ought to be settled in accordance
with what may be required. Some
think the exigencies of the case are
met by growing as many varieties as
there are plants ; but this, although
an interesting experiment, is far from
being politic. At the present time
I have seeds of upwards of twenty
varieties in a seed-drawer, but of
these only three varieties will be
grown, and one of these only by
way of experiment."

USES. — The fruit are eaten raw. In the south of France, some
white-fleshed or green-fleshed kinds are preserved, or made into
jam. The young fruit which are pinched off may be eaten like
young Gourds or Cucumbers, or may be pickled in vinegar, like
Gherkins.

There are numerous classifications of Melons. Of these we
shall follow the simplest and most common one, which divides
them into the two groups of the Netted and the Cantaloup or
Scabby-skinned Melons.

I. NETTED MELONS

French, Melons brodes. German, Netz-Melone. Italian, Popone primaticcio.
Spanish, Melon escrito.

Red-fleshed Pine-apple Melon. — A vigorous, branching plant,
with medium-sized or small, entire, rounded leaves, of a slightly
glaucous green colour. Fruit very long stalked, with
slightly marked ribs, and a delicate green colour,
very plentifully dotted with black-green ; the furrows
between the ribs are very shallow and of a clear
green colour, and the ribs themselves are slightly
netted when the fruit is quite ripe ; rind thin. The
fruit is from about 3 to 4 in. in diameter, and weighs
from about ten ounces and a half to over one pound.
The flesh is red, rather firm, sweet, juicy, and highly
perfumed. In this variety the central cavity seldom
exceeds the size of a walnut.

Green-fleshed Pine-apple, or Jersey Green
Citron, Melon. — The principal difference between this and the
preceding variety is in the colour of the flesh, which is of a pale
green, with a yellow tinge in the vicinity of the seeds ; the
leaves also are somewhat larger and lighter coloured. The plant
continues growing for a longer time, and the skin of the fruit

Red-fleshed
Pine-apple

Melon
(| natural size).

412

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

is rather more netted when ripe. Both this and the preceding
kind will readily carry and ripen from six to eight fruit on
each plant.

Green Climbing Melon. — A vigorous, branching plant, with
long slender stems. Leaves dark green, sometimes five-lobed,
especially those near the ends of the stems ; fruit oblong, with ribs
faintly marked, deep green in colour, slightly dotted with pale
green, 4 or 5 in. long and 3 or 4 in. in diameter, and weighing from
about one pound to one pound and a half; flesh green, very melting,

exceedingly juicy and
sweet, with an agreeable
perfume, although not so
delicate as that of the
Cantaloup Melons. It
cannot be said that this
variety requires a different
mode of culture from
that which is commonly
employed for the other
varieties of Netted Melons ;
yet its earliness renders
it more suitable for grow-
ing in the open air than
most other kinds, and the
small size of the fruit
allows of the stems being
grown on a slight trellis,
which would be impossible
in the case of a large
heavy-fruited variety. By
planting it in pockets
filled with manure covered
with good soil, it may be
easily brought to climb
on espalier stakes, or even on a wall, if it has something to which
it can attach itself. When grown in this way, the fruit ripens
quicker and better.

Some other kinds of Melon might be grown in the same way.
The American Pine-apple Melons, which have very long and
branching stems, are particularly well adapted for growing on
trellises. The kinds that succeed the best in this way are those
which grow rapidly and ripen early, and the fruit of which does not
require the artificial heat of a hot-bed along with the natural heat
of the sun to render it very sweet.

Golden Perfection Melon. — Fairly vigorous in growth, not
straggling, with rather thin stems and leaves of a pale gray-green.

Green Climbing Melon (£ natural size).

NETTED MELONS

413

The fruit is spherical in shape, 4 to 5 in. or so in diameter, and

usually not more than two to four pounds in weight. The skin is

at first smooth and dull

white, turning to yellow as

the fruit ripens, becoming

covered also with a thin

network of slender lines

crossed at right angles. The

flesh is pale green, luscious,

sugary, and perfumed. An

early, rather delicate variety,

only succeeding about Paris

when grown under glass.

Tours Netted Sugar
Melon. — This is a rather
variable kind, having several
sub-varieties which differ
from one another in the
shape of the fruit. One form
of it is often met with, of
which the fruit is oblong ; but the best form appears to be that which
we are about to describe. This is a vigorous plant, of medium size,
and rather branching. Leaves large, entire or not very deeply
lobed, slightly folded at the edges, and a rather vivid green
colour ; fruit spherical, about 6 in. in diameter, devoid of ribs or
having them very faintly marked, and completely covered with very
coarse, broad, and prominent tracings, crossing one another at right

Golden Perfection Melon.

Tours Netted Sugar
Melon.

Paris Market-Garden Melon
(£ natural size).

angles and surrounding the fruit like a network of cords ; flesh
orange-red, thick, firm, and generally very good. The fruit ripens
half-late. A plant may carry three fruit.

Round Netted Paris Market-Garden Melon. — A branching,
vigorous plant, with numerous rounded light green leaves, slightly

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

toothed on the margin. Fruit nearly spherical or more or less
flattened at the ends, entirely without ribs, and very uniformly
covered with regular and very fine tracings, forming a very close
network which completely hides the natural colour of the skin ;
flesh orange colour, thick, and firm. The fruit is about 8 or 10 in.
in diameter, and weighs, on an average, from four and a half to six
and three-quarter pounds. A well-grown plant may carry two
fruit.

The Saint-Laud Market-Garden Melon and the Maze Market-
Garden Melon (from the neighbourhood of Angers) are somewhat
like the preceding kind, but differ from it in being oblong in shape,
having the ribs rather well marked and the skin more coarsely
netted. The flesh is orange-coloured, firm, and usually very sweet.

Saint-Laud Market-Garden Melon
(£ natural size).

Nutmeg Melon Q natural
size).

Nutmeg Melon. — A medium-sized, branching plant. Leaves
largish, waved at the edges, and of a rather dark, wan green colour ;
fruit oval, almost pear-shaped, narrowed to a point at the stalk end
and bluntly rounded at the other ; skin dark green, almost black,
marked with whitish tracings forming a rather loose network. The
length of the fruit varies from about 6 to 8 in., and the diameter
from 4 to about 6 in. The average weight is about two pounds and
a quarter. Flesh green, not very thick, but juicy, sweet, and highly
perfumed. This is a hardy and easily grown kind, ripening half-
late. Three fruit may be left on each plant.

Honfleur Melon. — A very vigorous-growing plant, with very
branching, long, and slender stems. Leaves large and luxuriant, folded
and waved at the edges, light green in colour, usually distinctly lobed,
and toothed on the entire margin, and especially so towards the
extremity. The plant continues to flower for an exceedingly

NETTED MELONS

415

lengthened period, producing blooms in succession on the branches,

even after the fruit which set first have almost attained their full

size. Fruit very large,

long, with well-marked

ribs, finely netted all over,

and becoming a yellow,

slightly salmon, colour

when ripe ; flesh orange-
coloured and thick. The

fruit is sometimes 14 to

16 in. long and 8 to 10 in.

in diameter. When it is

well grown, the quality is

often excellent. It ripens

half-late.

This and the Black

Rock Melon are the

largest of all the Melons

in cultivation, the Honfleur

being equally remarkable

for its great hardiness.
Hybrid Vallerand

Melon. — A vigorous,

branching plant of quick

growth, a cross between

the Green Climbing Melon

and the Large Rock Very Large ^etted Honfleur Melon'

Prescott Cantaloup Melon. The leaves are dark green, only slightly

cut. The fruit is a long oval, and slighly ribbed, weighing about
four pounds. The skin is dark green, with
only a few markings. The flesh is a dark
orange-red, thick, firm, juicy, and fragrant.
It is a disease-resisting and good keeping
variety, also early.

Red-fleshed Cavaillon Melon. — A large
vigorous-growing plant, with large grayish
green leaves which have distinctly marked
and very rounded lobes. Fruit oblong, some-
times almost spherical, blunt at both ends,
and with well-marked ribs. When ripe, the
skin is orange-coloured, and is broadly and
densely netted, resembling the Tours Sugar
Melon in this respect. The furrows between
the ribs are very narrow, and, when the fruit

is ripe, become reduced to mere lines. The stalk of the fruit is

remarkably thick and strong. The flesh is a bright red colour,

Red-fleshed Cavaillon
Melon (£ natural size).

416 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

thick, a little coarse, juicy, and of a high vinous flavour. The fruit
ripens slowly. This variety is hardy, and is grown in the open air in
the south of France, almost without any attention. The fruit has a
tendency to become modified in shape, and, at the present day, is
more elongated than it was twenty-five years ago. The district about
Cavaillon is one of the great centres of Melon-growing in the south
of France, and there are many distinct varieties in cultivation there,
so that the name " Cavaillon Melon " is rather an indication of the
place in which the fruit has been raised than a true specific name.
The variety which we have just described is at the present time far
less commonly grown in its native district than the various forms of
Malta Winter, and especially of Malta Summer Melons, such as the
following :

Green-fleshed Cavaillon or Malta Summer Melon. — A
vigorous-growing plant, with very long stems. Leaves broad,
rounded, toothed on their entire margin, and of a palish green
colour. Fruit oblong, 5 or 6 in. in diameter, and 9 or 10 in. in
length ; skin smooth, of a dark green colour, thinly and loosely
netted when ripe ; flesh pale green, rather firm, but very juicy,
sweet, and perfumed in warm climates ; seldom good, however, in
the climate of Paris.

Ribbed Cavaillon Red-fleshed Melon.— The Ribbed Cavaillon
Melon differs from the Red-fleshed kind in having well-marked
ribs. It is a vigorous plant, with leaves entire and vivid green.
The fruit is spherical and ribbed ; the skin silvery white, much
netted, and the stalk thick and swollen. The flesh is pale red,
firm, perfumed, and sugary. Does not ripen well in the vicinity
of Paris.

Ribbed Cavaillon Green-fleshed Melon. — Distinguished from
the preceding by its fruit, which is oblong in shape and less netted.
The flesh is green, juicy, perfumed, and very sugary. It needs
much heat to ripen, and is at its best in the south of France. Of
all the netted sorts, it is the one most grown around Cavaillon,
whence it is distributed throughout the southern region. The
Cavaillon Melons are largely used in the south for various kinds
of preserves.

Red-fleshed Malta Winter Melon. — A plant of moderate
vigour, with slender and very branching stems. Leaves slight,
gray-green, usually entire, but slightly twisted at the margin ;
fruit oblong, blunt at both ends, only about one-fourth or one-
third longer than broad, seldom exceeding 9 or 10 in. in length,
and weighing from three and a quarter to four and a half pounds.
The ribs are marked, but not very prominently, the furrows between
them being a gray-green, and the top of the ribs pale green spotted
with dark green, and covered1? when ripe, with very short, almost
entirely longitudinal tracings. The fruit-stalk is inclined to be

NETTED MELONS

417

long and very slender for the size of the fruit. Flesh red, rather
thick, juicy, very sweet, and musky. If the fruit is gathered before
the proper time, it remains
firm and almost hard.
This variety succeeds well
in the open air, but re-
quires a southern climate
to grow it to perfection.

Green-fleshed Malta
Winter Melon.— A
vigorous - growing plant,
with long trailing stems
and numerous long
branches. Leaves erect,
dark and rather dull green,
rounded and bluntly
toothed ; leaf-stalks very
stiff. The leaves are
usually not large, and re-
main rolled up, in the
shape of a funnel. Fruit
oblong, rounded, blunt at
both ends, and particu-
larly so at the end farthest
from the stalk ; skin white,
tinged with green, entirely smooth, or with a few tracings on the
pair next the stalk. The fruit is from 7 to 9 in. long, and 5 or
6 in. in diameter, and weighs from three and a quarter to four

and a half pounds. A
plant rrray carry two or
three fruit. In the south
of France this variety is
very much grown for a
late autumn crop. The
fruit gathered at that time
are kept in a fruit-room
for winter use. They are
also preserved in sugar
or converted into jam.

Olive Winter Melon.
— Much grown in the
south of Europe and in

Green-fleshed Malta Winter Melon (i natural size). Algeria; its merits are

much the same as those of

the other Winter Melons. It is one of those exported to northern
cities late in the autumn. The fruit is oblong, tapering at both

27

Red-fleshed Malta Winter Melon.

4i8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

ends ; the skin smooth, dark green, more or less bronzed at
maturity, and sometimes irregularly furrowed, but not ribbed.

The flesh is red, fairly
thick, very sweet, juicy,
and of true Melon flavour.
Antibes Green-fleshed
Melon. — A vigorous,
branching, trailing plant,
differing from most of
the other varieties by its
light gray, much-folded
leaf, which makes it appear
more deeply lobed than
it is. The fruit bluntly
oval and dull white, and
smooth when ripe. The
flesh is green, very sweet
and juicy, and very fresh
and agreeable in taste.
It grows best on the coast
of Provence. Gathered
fully ripe in October, it keeps perfectly until the month of February,
and furnishes a very welcome dessert during winter. In the
climate of Paris it is not at its best, nor does it keep well.

Antibes Winter Green-fleshed Melon.

OTHER VARIETIES OF NETTED MELONS.

Melon Blanc de Russie. — Fruit small and round, without
ribs ; skin smooth, and entirely white ; flesh white, with not much
flavour.

Melon Blanc a Chair Verte.— A very distinct kind. Fruit
medium-sized, very much flattened at the ends, and weighing from
two to three pounds ; skin white, smooth ; ribs well marked ; flesh
very thick, excellent in quality, and green throughout.

Melon Boulet de Canon. — A small and rather early variety,
with spherical fruit 5 or 6 in. in diameter ; skin smooth, green,
marked here and there with a few fine tracings ; flesh pale green.

Melon de Cassaba, or de la Casba. — This kind, which is in high
repute in the East, appears to require a warm climate to bring it to
perfection. In appearance it is like the Green-fleshed Malta
Summer Melon.

Cyprus Melon. — Fruit oblong, with ribs faintly marked, of a
grayish white colour, very slightly netted, the furrows being
of a dark green ; flesh orange-coloured, firm, very thick, and high
flavoured.

NETTED MELONS

419

Moscatello Melon
(£ natural size).

Composite Melon. — Fruit oblong, with prominent ribs and

a thin rind, dark green in colour, almost entirely covered with

network of medium thickness ; flesh red, firm,

sweet, and well tasted.

Melon de Coulommiers. — Fruit large, ob-
long, with tolerably well-marked ribs, and very

like the Honfleur Melon, of which it appears

to be a sub-variety. A rather late kind.

Melon d'Esclavonie. — A very distinct

variety, with large fruit of a long oval shape,

rounded at both ends, and with a white, smooth,

and rather thick skin ; flesh nearly white, sweet,

but insipid.

Mftlon de Langeais.— A variety of the

Paris Market Garden Melon, with oblong fruit,

almost twice as long as broad ; ribs pretty well

marked and very much netted, furrows smooth ;

skin thin ; flesh red, watery, and rather insipid.

Ripens half-late.

Moscatello Melon. — Fruit very long, and almost pointed at both

ends ; ribs rather well marked, of a pale gray or silvery green, and

very seldom netted ; flesh red, very juicy, and highly perfumed.

Persian, or Odessa, Melon.
— A rather vigorous plant, with
long and somewhat slender stems.
The fruit is devoid of ribs, very
much elongated, and narrowed to
a point at both ends, especially
at the stalk ends ; skin smooth,
very dark green, with yellow bands,
themselves spotted or striped with
green ; flesh very thick, almost
without any rind and almost en-
tirely filling the fruit, rather firm,
but very finely flavoured, juicy,
sweet, and highly perfumed. This
Melon requires a great deal of
heat, and seldom ripens very well
in northern countries.

In Persia and Turkestan there
is a great number of varieties of
Melons which are highly esteemed
for their quality in those countries,
and of which travellers speak in

terms of admiration. The climate must have a great deal to do

with this, as the very same kinds, when grown in France, are

Persian, or Odessa, Melon
(£ natural size).

420

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

always inferior to the French varieties, both in quality and especially
in the certainty of the crop.

Quito Melon. — Fruit small, oblong, scarcely larger than a hen's
egg, and citron-coloured when ripe ; flesh white and acidulous.

Siam Netted Melon. — Fruit nearly spherical, rather small ;
ribs tolerably well marked
and dark green, almost black
in the furrows, and covered
with close coarse network ;
flesh red.

Siam Netted Melon.

Green-fleshed Sugar Melon (£ natural size).

Green-fleshed Sugar Melon. — A vigorous plant, with long
branching stems. Fruit oblong, narrowed at both ends, of a pale
green colour, finely netted when ripe, and bearing some pointed
protuberances ; ribs well marked, but not very prominent ; flesh of
a pale green colour, exceedingly melting and sweet. The length
of the fruit varies from about 9 to 1 1 in., with a diameter of 4 to 6 in.
It usually weighs from about four and a half to six and a half
pounds. Two, or even three, fruit may be grown on each plant.

Early Green Japanese Melon. — Fruit rather small, almost
spherical ; ribs regular, not prominent ; skin nearly smooth, slightly
downy, deep green, marked by a very few small tracings here and
there ; flesh red, firm, and perfumed.

ENGLISH AND AMERICAN VARIETIES

The English varieties of Netted Melons are very numerous.
In this country Melons are mostly grown with the aid of artificial
heat and more frequently as fruits than as vegetables. The varieties
cultivated are generally rather small, and usually are round-fruited
kinds with a very thin skin. Many of them do not succeed very
well when grown in the open air.

NETTED MELONS 421

I. Red-flesJied Varieties

Blenheim Orange Melon. — Fruit shortly oval, netted and
thin skinned ; flesh orange-coloured, rather thick, and very highly
perfumed.

Christiana Melon. — An American variety. Fruit spherical,
with a smooth dark green skin, hardly marked by a few very fine
tracings ; flesh red, very thick, and exceedingly fine flavoured and
perfumed.

Crawley Paragon Melon. — Fruit very small, spherical, netted ;
flesh red, firm, tolerably like that of the Windsor Prize Melon.

Emerald Gem Melon. — Small, almost round fruit, slightly
ribbed and netted, dark green and yellow when ripe ; flesh very
thick, Salmon-red, juicy, and excellent in flavour.

Hero of Bath Melon. — Fruit small, round, netted ; flesh red
and firm ; skin very thin.

Munroe's Little Heath Melon. — A very handsome and distinct
little Melon, with slightly marked ribs flattened a little at the
ends, and netted ; flesh red, thick, nearly filling the fruit, juicy
and sweet.

Osage, or Miller's Cream, Melon.— Late, medium-sized, oval,
and dark green fruit. Resembles the Green Climbing Melon, but
has red-coloured flesh.

Paul Rose, or Petoskey, Melon. — Short, .oval in shape, pale
green changing to yellow. Ribs and netting strongly marked ;
orange-red flesh, thick and sugary.

Read's Scarlet-flesh Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, round ; skin
dark green, netted ; flesh scarlet, melting, sweet, and good.

Scarlet Gem Melon.— A pretty little fruit, almost spherical
about the size of a large Orange, with a smooth gray skin covered
with fine and rather close tracings ; flesh red, juicy, sweet, and
highly perfumed.

Windsor Prize Melon.— This appears to be only a sub-variety
of the preceding kind, with still smaller fruit, but sweeter and more
highly perfumed, if possible.

Surprise Musk Melon.— An American variety. This is a
form of the Orange Cantaloup Melon, which has the fruit somewhat
larger than that of the ordinary variety. It is slightly oblong in
shape, and netted a little on the ribs ; flesh orange-coloured
and firm.

Victory of Bristol Melon.— Fruit quite spherical, something
like that of the Tours Sugar Melon, but more finely netted ; flesh
orange-coloured, thick, sweet, and rather juicy. The skin is almost
yellow when ripe.

422 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

II. White-fleshed Varieties

Bay View Musk Melon. — An American variety. Fruit oblong,
olive-shaped ; skin green, netted ; flesh white, sweet, and not very
thick.

Colston Bassett Seedling Melon. — Fruit slightly oblong, blunt
at both ends ; skin netted, yellow when ripe ; flesh white, melting,
very juicy, and very delicately perfumed.

Hero of Lockinge Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, rounded ;
skin bright yellow, netted ; flesh almost white, very tender, melting,
rich, and excellent. One of the best of Melons.

Longleat Perfection Melon. — Fruit large, rounded ; smooth,
greenish yellow skin ; flesh white, very melting, juicy and high
flavoured.

Queen Emma Melon. — Fruit rather large, almost round ; skin
thin ; flesh white, very melting. A productive kind.

III. Green-fleshed Varieties

Bailey's Green-flesh Melon. — Fruit medium - sized, round
ovate, smooth, greenish yellow ; flesh green, very tender, sweet,
and richly flavoured.

Baltimore, or Acme, Melon.— A climbing variety, rather more
netted than our own variety.

Beechwood Melon. — Fruit oval, netted, yellow-green when ripe ;
flesh pale green, melting, sweet, and perfumed. Ripens half-late.

Davenham Early Melon. — Fruit small, spherical, with slightly
marked closely netted ribs and smooth furrows. The flesh is
green and very melting. It is very like the Green-fleshed Pine-
apple Melon, but not so trailing.

Eastnor Castle Melon.— Fruit slightly oblong, nearly smooth,
scarcely marked by a few tracings when ripe, and then becoming
pale yellow, having been previously of a perfectly uniform dark
green ; flesh very tender, sometimes a little clammy. A productive
kind.

Egyptian Green-flesh Melon. — Fruit rounded, blunt at both
ends, slightly netted ; skin gray or silvery ; flesh sweet and
perfumed.

Gilbert's Green-flesh Melon. — Fruit rather large, oval, yellow
when ripe ; flesh juicy and melting. A good and productive
variety.

Gilbert's Improved Victory of Bath Melon. — Fruit rather
large, shortly oval, not much netted, and with ribs slightly marked ;
flesh pale green, melting, and highly perfumed. This variety some-
what resembles the Green-fleshed Sugar Melon, but its fruit is not
so large.

NETTED MELONS

423

Golden Queen Melon.— A vigorous kind, probably a sub-
variety of the preceding one, with somewhat larger and well-netted
fruit ; flesh firm, juicy, and highly flavoured.

Hackensack Melon. — This is a vigorous form, of the Green-
fleshed Pine-apple Melon, with spherical fruit.

Extra Early Hackensack Melon. — Much in request in New
York markets, and about ten days earlier than the type.

High Cross Hybrid Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, spherical, and
of a uniform white colour ; flesh quite green, rather thick and melting.

Montreal Market Melon.— Very big, rather late, spherical or
slightly oblong, the ribs well marked ; skin dark green and netted
all over ; flesh light green and sugary.

Rocky Ford, or Netted Gem, Melon. — A late variety ; fruit
almost round or slightly 'oval, ribs not high ; skin thin, netted, first
green then a peculiar gray when ripe ; flesh pale green and very
sweet. One of the favourites of the American markets, and grown
in large quantities in Colorado State.

Skillmann's Netted Melon. — A sub-variety of the Green-
fleshed Pine-apple Melon, with fruit twice as large.

William Tillery Melon. — Fruit oval, with ribs very feebly
marked ; skin dark green, slightly netted when ripe ; flesh very
green, not very thick, quite melting and exceedingly sweet, but
deficient in delicacy of flavour.

II. CANTALOUP, or ROCK MELONS

French, Melons cantaloups. German, Cantaloup-Melone.
Spanish, Meloncillo de Florencia.

Italian, Zatta.

The name of Cantaloup Melon is of Italian origin, and dates
back several centuries. It
is now used to denote those
varieties of Melons with
warty skins, which is sup-
posed to have been the
distinctive feature of the
original Cantaloup Melon.
In regard to certain varie-
ties it is not always easy to
draw a hard-and-fast line
between the Cantaloup
Melons and the Netted
Melons.

Bellegarde Cantaloup
Melon. — A rather slender
plant of vigorous and rapid
growth ; the leaves are light Bellegarde Cantaloup Melon.

424

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Vaucluse Cantaloup Melon.

gray-green, the fruit, which is rather long than round, measuring
usually 4 to 6 in. in length by about 3 in. in diameter. It is only
slightly ribbed and not very warty. It is easily recognised by the

length and slenderness of
the fruit-stem. The flesh
is very thick, sugary, per-
fumed, and a fine deep
orange. In earliness it is
equal, if not superior, to the
Early Black Rock Melon.
Vaucluse Cantaloup
Melon. — Plant of rather
vigorous growth, with
stems and leaves quite
like those of a Cantaloup
Melon. The leaves are
slightly cut and rather
dark green. The fruit is
borne on a long stalk, is
deeply ribbed, and remarkable for its very flattened shape, being
little more than 2 in. deep, while it is often 6 in. in its transverse
diameter. Its weight is more frequently under than over two
pounds and a quarter. The skin is nearly smooth, and is marbled
with dark green on a pale green ground. This little Melon is
remarkable for its very great earliness, and is sent to the Paris
markets in June and July
from the department of
Vaucluse.

Apple-shaped Canta-
loup Melon. — A vigorous
and productive plant.
The leaves are large and
rounded. The fruit are
numerous, small, and
round, measuring about
4 in. in diameter by about
3 in. in depth ; it is very
slightly ribbed. The skin
is rough and dark green
when ripe. The flesh is
dark orange, thick, juicy,
and sugary, filling almost
entirely the seed cavity. Apple-shaped Cantaloup Melon.

It is a good Melon for small gardens, for its productiveness on a
given surface is quite equal to that of the large-fruited sorts and
is longer in point of time.

CANTALOUP, OR ROCK MELONS 425

Prescott Early Frame Melon. — A medium-sized plant.
Leaves broad, rounded or slightly angular, of a light gray-green
colour, and almost always folded in the shape of a funnel ; fruit
spherical, or slightly flattened at the ends, with the ribs marked,
faintly warted, marbled with dark green on a pale green ground,
and with the bottom of the furrows a uniform olive-green ; flesh
orange-coloured, thick, juicy, and melting. The diameter of the
fruit is from about 5 to 6 in., and its length (from stem to eye) from
4 to 5 in. Its weight ranges from twenty-six ounces to over two
pounds. A plant should carry only one fruit for the early crop,
and two for the general crop. This variety is remarkably early,
and its quality is almost invariably excellent. It and the Early
Black Rock Melon are the best two kinds for forcing under frames.

Prescott Early Frame Melon Early Black Rock, or Des Carmes Cantaloup,
(i natural size). Melon (£ natural size).

Early Black Rock, or Des Carmes Cantaloup, Melon. —
A medium-sized, rather branching plant. Leaves largish, of a dark,
shining green colour, very distinctly five-lobed, folded at the edges,
almost in the shape of a funnel ; leaf-stalk short and thick ; fruit
nearly spherical, but slightly flattened at the ends, with ribs clearly
but not very deeply marked ; skin usually smooth and without
warts, of very dark green, almost black, turning to orange when
ripe ; flesh orange-coloured, thick, sweet, perfumed, and of excellent
quality. The diameter of the fruit varies from about 6 to 7 in.,
and its length (from stalk to eye) from about 5 to 6 in. ; it weighs
from about two pounds and a quarter to three pounds and a half.
A plant may ca'rry two fruit for the general crop. This is one of
the best and most easily grown of the early Melons.

Bomb-shaped Cantaloup Melon. — A very vigorous grower,
with numerous leaves of vivid green, very much cut, especially
when young. The fruit is oblong, narrowed at both ends, some-
times slightly netted or scaly, and a black-green when ripe.
The skin is very thin ; the flesh dark orange, very tender and very
juicy. Evidently sprung from the Black Rock or des Carmes
Melon, which it resembles except in shape, it is very productive,

426

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

a plant producing three or four fruit, which ripen in succession

up to September or October. It is suitable for frame as well

as open culture.

Sugar Cantaloup
Melon. — A medium-
sized, very branching,
vigorous, and hardy
variety. Leaves rather
large, distinctly lobed,
and dark gray-green;
fruit nearly spherical, or
slightly flattened at the
ends, with ribs not very
strongly marked, of a
uniform silvery gray
colour, not very distin-
guishable from the colour
of the bottom of the
furrows, which is a pale
gray; flesh orange-
coloured, very thick,
sweet, juicy, and per-
fumed ; skin remarkably
thin. The diameter of

the fruit is about 5 or 6 in., and the weight usually ranges from

about 2 Ib. 10 oz. to 3 Ib. 13 oz. A plant may easily carry two

fruit. This is one of the varieties which succeed the best in

the open air.

Large Rock Prescott Cantaloup Melon. — A rather vigorous

and branching plant. Leaves medium-sized, folded at the edges,

often five-lobed, and a rather deep, light green ; fruit large, and

very much flattened at the ends; ribs

broad, very much wrinkled, covered

with knobs and protuberances of all

shapes, and irregularly variegated with

dark and pale green on a whitish

ground. The ribs are separated by

very deep, narrow furrows. Flesh

orange-coloured, very thick, exceedingly

fine flavoured, juicy, and melting. The

skin also is thick, but owing to the

shape of the fruit, that does not prevent

the flesh from being very abundant.

The length of the fruit, from the stalk

to the eye, varies from about 5 to 6 in., and the diameter from 9

to 1 1 in., while the weight ranges from five and a half to nearly

Bomb-shaped Cantaloup Melon.

Sugar Cantaloup Melon
(£ natural size).

CANTALOUP, OR ROCK MELONS

427

Large Rock Prescott Cantaloup Melon.

nine pounds. A plant is generally allowed to carry only one fruit,

or, in rare cases, two.

Silvery Prescott Cantaloup Melon.— This variety only differs

from the preceding one

in the colour of the ribs

being somewhat more

metallic, and in the fruit

being a little larger, but

of the same quality. The

two varieties are those

which are the most ex-
tensively grown by the

Paris market-gardeners,

who supply them in

abundance from July to

the end of October. As

the large Prescott Melons

are grown to an enormous

extent, new varieties of

them are of frequent

occurrence. Whenever a

particularly good fruit

possesses any exterior characteristic which distinguishes it, even in

a slight degree, from others, the cultivators aim at reproducing this

characteristic as indicative of the quality, and that is how a new

variety is often established.

Parisian Cantaloup Melon. — A vigorous plant with short and

branching stem and dark green leaves, moderately cut and lobed.

The fruit is large,
spherical, about 12 in.
in diameter, the ribs
being separated by
well-marked but very
shallow furrows. The
skin is silvery white
with sometimes dark
green blotches or warts.
It is very like the
Silver - white Prescott
Cantaloup Melon, the
most important differ-
ence being in the depth
of the flesh in com-
parison with that of the rind. It would be difficult to find

a Melon possessing depth of flesh and thinness of rind in the

same degree.

Silvery Prescott Cantaloup Melon.

428

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Parisian Cantaloup Melon.

Algerian Cantaloup
Melon. — A rath€r dense-
growing plant, with
numerous short branches.
Leaves dark green, slightly
cut, and very much folded
at the edges, which gives
them the appearance of
being five - lobed. They
are almost turned round
in the shape of a funnel,
and are very variable in
size, those on the lower
parts of the stems being
three or four times as
large as those at the ends
of the branches. Fruit
slightly elongated, some-
times spherical, bearing
embossed warts or scabs,
which, as well as the
bottoms of the furrows,
are of a very dark green,
almost black, colour,

Vauriac Cantaloup
Melon. — Evidently a
selection from the Silver-
skinned Prescott Cantaloup
Melon, which it resembles
in colour, but not in its
thick, well-developed ribs,
separated by deep furrows,
and rough, sometimes scaly,
skin. The flesh is a fine
orange-red, deep, juicy, and
of excellent quality. The
fruit is large and heavy.
The defect of this variety
is the thickness of its skin,
as compared with some
newer varieties, especially
the Parisian Cantaloup
Melon. It ripens mid-
season, and can be well
grown in small gardens, as
well as market-gardens.

Vauriac Cantaloup Melon.

CANTALOUP, OR ROCK MELONS

429

Algerian Cantaloup Melon
(I natural size).

contrasting strongly with the light silvery hue of the other parts
of the ribs. The dark green parts change to orange colour, but
not fully until the fruit is over-ripe, so that it should be gathered
before the change takes place. The length
of the fruit varies from 6 to 10 in., and
the diameter from about 5 to 8 in., the
weight ranging from about four and a
half to six and three-quarter pounds. A
plant may carry two fruit

It is surprising that this Melon is not
grown by the Paris market-gardeners, as
it is one of the hardiest summer Melons,
and surpasses all of them, perhaps, in
uniform goodness of quality. The flesh
is thick, juicy, perfumed, and always very
sweet. Ripens half-late.

Green-fleshed Cantaloup Melon.— A
medium-sized, branching, rather slender-
stemmed plant. Leaves medium-sized or
small, dark green, folded at the edges, and often rather deeply cut
into five lobes ; fruit spherical, or slightly flattened at the ends, with
faintly marked ribs, light green at the bottom of the furrows, and
slightly warted on the convexity of the ribs, which are marbled

with white and dark green. The
length of the fruit varies from about
5 to 6 in., the diameter slightly
exceeding those dimensions, arid
the weight ranging from about
2 Ib. 10 oz. to 3 Ib. 5 oz. A plant
may carry two, and sometimes
three, fruit. Flesh pale green, very
thick, melting, juicy, sweet, and
delicately perfumed. This is one
of the finest flavoured of all the
Cantaloup Melons.

Black Portugal, or Rock
Cantaloup, Melon. — A very
vigorous, branching plant, with very
large, soft, rounded, entire leaves,
of a clear-green colour, more like
the leaves of Netted Melon than
those of a Cantaloup. Fruit very
large, slightly oblong, very blunt,
and almost flat at the end farthest from the stalk; ribs. deeply
marked ; skin irregular, knobby, and marked with spots of very
dark green on a lighter green ground ; stalk very long, and swollen

Black Portugal, or Rock Cantaloup,
Melon (i natural size).

430 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

to a remarkable degree close to the fruit. The shape of the fruit
is somewhat variable, the length sometimes exceeding the diameter,
and sometimes the reverse. The extreme diameters range from
about 10 to 12 in. and the fruit often weighs from eleven to
thirteen pounds. A plant should not be allowed to carry more
than one fruit.

The Maron Melon, which was mentioned some years ago, and
which weighed, it is said, as much as twenty pounds, is a
selection from the Black Portugal Melon.

OTHER VARIETIES OF CANTALOUP MELONS

Archangel Cantaloup Melon. — A handsome, medium-sized
variety. Fruit nearly spherical, or slightly flattened at the ends,
with ribs faintly marked, and a gray-green, not very warty, skin,
almost intermediate in appearance between the White Prescott and
the Sugar Cantaloup Melon ; flesh red, thick, juicy, sweet, and
highy flavoured.

Epinal Cantaloup Melon. — This appears to be a sub-variety
of the Prescott Early Frame Melon, which it somewhat exceeds in
size. The fruit is almost spherical, with ribs pretty well marked,
and a pale green skin variegated with gray. Flesh red, and very
thick.

Early English Cantaloup Melon. — This variety, which is
now not much grown, is distinguished by its small size and great
earliness. The fruit is slightly flattened at the ends, and does
not exceed 4 or 5 in. in diameter. Flesh red, fine flavoured, and
good.

Mogul Cantaloup Melon. — Fruit almost pear-shaped, twice as
long as broad, with very prominent ribs ; skin wrinkled, velvety,
and covered with warts ; flesh red and thick, but deficient in
flavour. Ripens very late.

Black Dutch Cantaloup Melon. — Fruit very
large, oblong, sometimes almost pear-shaped ; ribs
well marked, warty, of a dark green colour, almost
black, more or less marbled with paler green ; skin
thick ; flesh orange-red, comparatively scanty, and
rather coarse. Ripens late.

Orange Cantaloup Melon. — A small oblong
Melon, ribbed ; with orange-coloured, firm, and
not very thick flesh. Inferior in all respects to
°rangMdon.tal°UP the Bellegarde Cantaloup Melon.

Passy Cantaloup Melon. — This Melon almost
exactly resembles the Prescott Early Frame Melon in all the
parts of the plant, differing clearly from it, however, in the fruit,
which in the Passy Melon is smoother, more regularly spherical,

CANTALOUP. OR ROCK MELONS

43*

Passy Cantaloup Melon.

and considerably smaller. The skin is not warty, but simply

spotted with darker green on a light green ground, especially

on the parts of the fruit

which are exposed to the

sun. The fruit seldom ex-
ceeds 4 in., or a little

more, in diameter, and the

average weight is from one

pound and a half to one

pound and three-quarters

at the most. The flesh is

red, thick, sugary, and of

a very uniformly good

quality, even in fruit which

ripen late in autumn.,

C. Prescott a Ecorce

Mince. — A handsome

variety, more spherical in

shape than most of the

Prescott Cantaloups com-
monly grown about Paris,

and yet coming very near the Sugar Cantaloup, which is also

distinguished by the thinness of the skin.

C. Prescott Cul de Singe.— In this variety the eye of the

fruit is considerably enlarged, the part of the fruit around it

being swollen in such a manner as to give the fruit something

of the appearance of a Turk's-Cap
Gourd. This peculiarity of shape being
sometimes found to be accidentally
accompanied with a remarkably good
quality in the fruit, has caused it
to be much sought after by some
amateurs, but there is really no
necessary connection between the two
things, since quite as good fruit are
found amongst the ordinary varieties
of Prescott Melons. The peculiar
shape, moreover, is not confined to
this variety, as it occasionally occurs
in the Sugar and other Cantaloup
Melons, and even in the Netted Melons,
and is never found to be accompanied
with an invariable improvement of
quality in any variety.
Queen Anne's Pocket Melon, or Pomegranate Melon. — A

slender climbing plant of light foliage, the leaf more or less deeply

fruit, 3 natural size).

432 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

divided into five lobes. Fruit numerous, very small, depressed at
the ends, unribbed, but marked with bands of green and yellow ;
flesh not thick, pale • orange, and uneatable; seeds small and oval
shaped. The scent of this fruit, which resembles that of other
Melons, though less powerfully, is pleasant enough in the ripening
fruit ; but the flavour of the fruit does not correspond with the
perfume, and its chief value as a plant is for covering trellises, etc.
To this variety has been long ascribed the Peach Melon, a small,
smooth, yellow fruit, scarcely worth eating when raw, but as a
preserve recalling the flavour of the Peach to some palates ; but it
is rather referrable to the Quito Melon, already mentioned, if indeed
the two are not identical.

WATER-MELON

Citrullus vulgaris, Schrad. ; Cucumis Citrullus, Ser. ; Cucurbita
Citrullus, L. Cucurbitacece.

French, Melon d'eau, Pasteque. German, Wasser-Melone. Italian^ Cocomero.
Spanish, Sandia. Portuguese, Melancia.

Native of Africa. — Annual. — The Water-Melon is a climbing
plant with slender and very long stems, particularly suitable for
warm climates, where the watery but insipid pulp of the fruit is
considered very refreshing. The whole of the plant is covered with
long, soft, grayish hairs. The leaves are rather large, and divided
into numerous segments, which are also cut or lobed. All the
divisions of the leaves, as well as the spaces between the divisions,
are rounded in outline, which gives the foliage of the plant a very
peculiar appearance. The flowers are rather like Melon-flowers ;
they are monoecious, and the female flowers are placed on the top
of the ovoid and very hairy ovaries, which, as they grow, become
changed into perfectly smooth, spherical, or oblong fruit. The
colour of the fruit is sometimes a uniform more or less dark green,
and sometimes variegated and marbled with grayish green on a
darker ground. The fruit is filled with flesh or pulp, the colour of
which varies from greenish white to dark red. The seeds are in
longitudinal rows, and are flat, oval, short, and of various colours —
white, yellow, red, brown, or black. Their germinating power lasts
for six years. The varieties of Water-Melons are almost without
number, the plant being very extensively cultivated in countries
where little importance is attached to pureness of variety, and
where different kinds may be seen growing and flowering side
by side.

CULTURE. — The Water-Melon, being a native of warm countries,
is not much grown in Europe, except on the shores of the Mediter-
ranean and in the south of Russia, where it forms an important
article of food. In all tropical countries it is one of the commonest

WATER-MELON

433

fruits, and is grown there, like the Melon, in the open air and

without any trouble. In the climate of Paris it requires, like the

Melon, the aid of artificial

heat ; but it is only grown

there as a curiosity, the

fruit being always insipid.

The only difference in the

culture of it from that of

the Melon is, that the

Water-Melon plants are

never pinched or stopped,

the produce being always

better the more freely the

stems are allowed to grow.

We have never known it

to be well grown in

England.

USES. — The ripe pulp
of the fruit is eaten raw,
like a Melon. Sometimes
the fruit is sliced, and
preserved either alone or
mixed with other kinds of

It is also made into

Early Russian Water- Melon.

fruit.

jam. Before it has ripened, it may be boiled and eaten like a

Vegetable Marrow. It is of great value in hot countries.

Early Russian
Water- Melon. — A
vigorous plant, with olive-
green fruit, weighing
usually less than four
pounds. It is the earliest
of all Water - Melons,
ripening in ordinary
seasons as early as
August. The flesh is
melting and juicy. It
is the best of all Water-
Melons.

Very Early Rodosto
Water- Melon (Black-
seeded). — Not so early
as the Seikon, it ripens

Early Rodosto Water-Melon. ,, . ,, ,- r

well in the climate of

Paris. A vigorous plant, with stems 10 ft. long, bearing many
fruit of pale green colour, rather small, spherical, very slightly

28

434

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

flattened, with ribs faintly marked. The flesh is .red, deep, juicy,
very sugary, and of a very pleasant flavour. Grown on a hot-bed,
it ripens in average seasons in the second half of August.

Very Early Seikon
Water-Melon. — A
variety introduced from
Japan, of remarkable
earliness, owing to which
it ripens better in the
climate of Paris than most
Water-Melons, which, as
grown in the north of
France, are generally poor
in flavour. It has a rather
short stem, and deeply
cut leaf, quite distinct,
and wilting readily. The
fruit is almost spherical,
slightly flattened at the

Seikon Water-Melon. ends; the colour dark

green, with sometimes

faintly black streaks. The tlesh is red, and the se^ds are black.
Red-fleshed and Red-seeded Water-Melon.— A very early
Water-Melon. The fruit is slightly oblong, olive-green, and about
7 or 8 in. in length, and about 4 in. in diameter, weighing two to
four pounds. It is a productive and well-shaped variety from Pro-
vence, early enough to ripen well in the climate of Paris. The flesh
is melting, very juicy,
delicately perfumed, and a
fine bright red.

Black-seeded Water-
Melon. — Fruit oblong, 20
in. to 2 ft. long and 12 to
14 in. in diameter ; skin
smooth, dark green ; flesh
red, very melting, slightly
sweet, and filling the whole
of the fruit ; seed varying
from dark red to black.
This variety is most
usually eaten raw, and,
along with its sub-varieties,
is the kind most com-
monly grown on all the shores of the Mediterranean.

The Helopa Water-Melon is a vigorous plant, with very large,
spherical, or slightly flattened fruit ; skin thin, pale green, marbled

Black-seeded Water-Melon (£ natural size).

WATER-MELON

435

Red-seeded Water-Melon (| natural size).

with still lighter green ; flesh greenish white, firm, but not very
sweet ; seed black. The fruit sometimes weighs nearly five pounds.
It ripens half-late, and is seldom eaten except as a preserve. It is
sometimes used for feeding
cattle.

Red-seeded Water-
Melon. — A vigorous plant,
but not so luxuriant in
growth as the black-seeded
variety. The stems spread
along the ground, and are
seldom more than about
8 ft long ; they have com-
paratively few branches.
The leaves are broad, with
the lobes broader and less
cut than those of any
other Water- Melon. Fruit
spherical, 12 to 16 in. in
diameter, of a rather pale
green, variegated with gray bands marbled with green ; flesh
watery, but rather firm, and greenish white ; seed pink or red.
The fruit of this variety requires nearly four months' heat to
ripen it, and is chiefly used preserved or made into jam.

AMERICAN VARIETIES

In the United States Water-Melons are very highly esteemed
and very extensively grown. The chief varieties are the following :

Black Spanish Water-Melon. — Fruit large, rounded, or shortly
oblong, with ribs slightly marked ; skin nearly black ; flesh dark
red ; seed brown or blackish. A hardy and productive kind.

Citron Water-Melon. — A kind only used for preserving.
Fruit small, spherical, marked with alternate bands of dark green
and silvery white ; flesh white, very firm, almost hard, scarcely edible
in the raw state. It is cut in slices, and preserved like Citrons.

Cuban Queen Water-Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, oval,
marked alternately with bands of light and dark green ; flesh bright
red and sugary.

Excelsior Water-Melon. — A handsome, almost spherical, fruit.

Florida Favourite Water-Melon. — Early, very large, long,
streaked with light green on a darker ground ; flesh deep red and
good in quality.

Gipsy Water-Melon. — An enormously large kind. Fruit
oblong, dark green, marked with paler spots in longitudinal bands ;
flesh red ; seed brown or black.

436 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Ice-cream, or Peerless, Water-Melon. --Fruit rounded, large,
often flattened at the ends ; skin thick, of a very pale green ; flesh
white and sweet ; seed white.

Icing, Ice-rind, or Strawberry Water-Melon. — A sub-variety
of the White-seeded Water-Melon, remarkable for the red colour
of the flesh of the fruit, which is of moderate size, very sweet,
melting, and agreeably perfumed.

Mountain, or Mountain Sweet, Water-Melon. — Fruit large,
elongated, oval, sometimes slightly contracted like a Gourd, and
without ribs ; skin marked with faint bands, some pale, others
darker in colour ; flesh red, entirely filling the fruit ; seed more or
less dark brown. A hardy and productive kind.

Mountain Sprout Water-Melon. — This variety comes ex-
ceedingly close, in every respect, to the preceding one, but is a
little later.

Orange Water-Melon. — Fruit medium-sized, oval ; skin smooth,
marbled with dark green on a paler green ground ; flesh red, tender,
and sweet.

Rattlesnake Water-Melon.— A fine form of the Black-seeded
Water-Melon. Fruit oblong, elongate, and of a uniform dark green
colour ; flesh very red.

Round Light Icing, Ice-rind, Strawberry Water- Melon. —
White-seeded, remarkable for the red colour of its flesh. Medium-
sized fruit, rounded ; flesh very sweet, pleasantly perfumed, and
melting.

Dark Icing Water-Melon.— Is a deeper green than the fore-
going and the Long Light Icing, or Gray Monarch ; has larger fruit.

Sweet Heart Water-Melon.— Fruit large, rounded or slightly
oblong ; skin pale green, with bands of deeper colour ; flesh red,
melting, and sweet.

Many other varieties of Water-Melons might be mentioned, as
they are perhaps as numerous as those of Melons properly so
called ; but as this work is chiefly written for countries in which
the cultivation of Water-Melons seldom succeeds, we limit ourselves
to the number just described.

MINT, or SPEARMINT

Mentha viridis, L. Labiates.

Menthe verte.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with a creeping root-
stock. Stem erect, with spreading branches at the top ; leaves
nearly sessile, lanceolate-acute, slightly rounded at the base, and
with distantly placed teeth on the edges ; flowers pink or lilac, in
cylindrical spikes ; seed very scanty, exceedingly fine, roundish,
brown.

MINT, OR SPEARMINT 437

CULTURE. — This plant is usually propagated by division
in spring. It prefers a cool moist soil, and a plantation of it will
last for several years, if the stems are cut off close to the ground
every autumn, and a layer of good soil or compost placed over the
plants.

USES. — The leaves and the ends of the shoots are used for
seasoning and for Mint sauce, which, in England especially, is
considered indispensable for some dishes.

PEPPERMINT

Mentha piperita, L. Labiate.

French, Menthe poivree. German, Pfeffermiinze. Danish, Pebbermynte.

A native of North Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with a creeping
stem, which readily takes root. Leaves stalked, oblong or
lanceolate-acute ; flowers in a cylindrical-oblong spike and of
a red-violet colour. This species does not produce seed.

CULTURE. — The Peppermint-plant is grown in the same manner
as the Common Mint or Spearmint. Although, in the wild state,
it is usually found in parts of meadows which are wet and almost
under water, it nevertheless succeeds well in moist, deep garden soil.
It is always propagated from cuttings of the stems, which take root
with the greatest readiness.

USES. — The leaves and stems are sometimes used for seasoning,
but they are chiefly employed for the distillation of the essence of
peppermint.

Japanese Mint. — Introduced from Japan, it is very like the
Peppermint, but differs from that by its flowers being situated at
the axils of its leaves instead of being produced in terminal spikes,
and also by being reproduced by seed. Its cultivation is the same
as that of the Peppermint, except for the fact that it can be raised
from seed. The uses of both are the same. Like the Peppermint, it
contains menthol, but in larger quantity.

PENNYROYAL

Mentha Pulegium, L. Labiates.

Menthe pouliot.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant with prostrate stems,
which readily take root, bearing round-oval, slightly hairy leaves
of a gray-green colour. Flowers small, lilac-blue, in rounded
whorled clusters rising one above another in tiers on the stem,
sometimes to the number of ten or twelve ; seed exceedingly fine,
oval, and of a light brown colour. The whole plant gives out a
very agreeable odour, which is somewhat more powerful than that

438 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of any other kind of Mint. The Pennyroyal prefers stiff moist
soils. It is propagated by division, and a plantation of it will last
for several years. The leaves are used for seasoning puddings and
various dishes. It is seldom seen in English kitchen-gardens.

CAT-MINT

Nepeta Cataria, L. Labiates.

French^ Menthe de chat.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A tall plant, with erect branch-
ing stems about 3^ ft. high. Leaves stalked, oval or heart-shaped,
notched at the edges, and whitish on the under-surface ; flowers
white, in terminal clusters composed of small heads which are wide
apart at the bottom, but become more crowded towards the top ;
seeds brown, smooth, ovoid, with three well-defined angles. Their
germinating power lasts for five years. It is easily raised from
seed sown in spring or autumn in lines, which should be 20 in. apart,
as the plants attain a considerable size. They require no attention,
and will last for several years, if the ground is kept free from weeds.
The leaves and young shoots are used for seasoning.

MUGWORT

Artemisia vulgaris, L. Composites.
French^ Armoise. German, Beifuss. Dutch, Bijvoet. Italian, Santolina.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — An exceedingly hardy plant,
forming very long-lived tufts or clumps. Leaves dark green on the
upper surface, whitish underneath, pinnate, with oval-lanceolate seg-
ments, the lower ones stalked, the stem-leaves sessile and auricled ;
stems from 2 to over 3 ft. high, red and furrowed ; flower-heads
small, green, in large, erect, pyramidal, irregular clusters on the
ends of the stems and branches ; seeds very small, oblong, gray,
and smooth. Their germinating power lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — Exactly the same as that of Wormwood (see
Wormwood).

USES. — The leaves have a strong, bitter, aromatic taste, and are
sometimes used for seasoning.

MUSHROOMS

Agaricus campestris, L. Fungi.

French, Champignon comestible. German, Schwamm. Flemish and Dutch,
Kanrpernoelie. Italian, Fungo pratajolo. Spanish, Seta.

The cultivated Mushroom is the same kind as that which grows
naturally in meadows and pastures, and in the wild state is known

MUSHROOMS

439

in France by the names of Champignon Rose, C. des Prts, and C. de

Ros&. In this species, as in the case of most other Mushrooms,

people generally suppose that the parts which in reality are only

the organs of fructification are the entire plant The true plant,

however, which feeds, grows, and finally prepares to flower, is the

network of whitish threads which form what is commonly called

the " spawn," or, botanically, the mycelium, of the Mushroom.

The growth of this spawn, which is suspended in dry weather,

becomes active under the influence of moisture accompanied with

a sufficient degree of heat, and is developed in an especial degree

in horse-manure, which appears to be the most favourable medium

of all for the growth of this species. When the Mushroom-plant

is on the point of flowering, it swells and produces small whitish

excrescences, which

soon assume the shape

of a miniature parasol,

usually white on the

upper surface, and

covered underneath

with a number of very

thin radiating plates

or " gills," which are

at first of a pale pink . ^BwnMBH^HHHEi^^Sli^AH^'i

colour, and gradually

change to brown.

This parasol or cap

is borne on the top

of a cylindrical, fleshy,

white stalk. The

colour of the "gills" is an index whereby the Edible Mushroom

is distinguished from the poisonous, and happily rare, kinds with

which it might be confounded.

In the neighbourhood of Paris several varieties of the Edible
Mushroom are in cultivation. These differ from one another in
the colour and general appearance of the skin. It has been found
from experience that these varieties (of which there are three
principal ones, viz. the White, the Gray, and the Yellow) are not
invariably constant, and that after some time, and when removed
from the special conditions under which they were produced, they
lose their distinctive character, and revert to the Common White
kind. After several comparative trials, the White variety appears
to us to be the best for the table. The Yellow variety is not so
tender nor so well scented, while the Gray variety, although of a
stronger flavour, has the drawback of discolouring the sauces made
with it, even when it is not nearly full grown.

CULTURE. — Mushrooms may be easily grown everywhere,

Mushroom Tablet (virgin spawn).

440

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

and at all seasons, by following some directions which we shall
endeavour to give as briefly and clearly as possible. The con-
ditions essential to success in cultivating Mushrooms consist in
growing them in very rich artificial soil and in a moderately warm
steady temperature. And it is for this last that cellars and old
subterranean quarries are often utilised for their culture. Any
other kind of place would answer equally well, provided that, either
naturally or by the use of artificial means, its temperature never
rose above 86° Fahr., nor fell much below 50° Fahr.

After selecting a suitable place, the first thing to attend to is
the making of the bed or beds in which the Mushrooms are to

grow. The indispensable
ingredient of this is horse-
manure, if possible that
of strong, well-fed animals,
not too abundantly bedded
with straw, for it is best
that the manure should
not contain too much
straw. It will not do to
make the beds with this

Mushrooms (natural size).

manure just as it comes
from the stable, as the
fermentation would be too
great and would give out
too much heat. It should,
therefore, be tempered
down by mixing it as
thoroughly as possible
with a fourth or a fifth
part of good garden soil.
As soon as this is done,
the beds should be at once made with the mixture, which will
ferment slowly and give out a moderate constant heat. Care
should be taken to place the beds in a very well-drained place,
rather dry than damp ; and when they are made, all projecting
straws, etc., should be removed and the surfaces made level and
very firm.

If the manure is used pure, as it is by some Mushroom growers
about Paris, it should be allowed to spend some of its heat before
being employed. For this purpose it is brought from the stables
to a place of preparation, where it is put into a square heap, about
a yard or more high, formed of successive layers, well mixed
together, so as to render the whole mass as homogeneous as
possible, all foreign substances being carefully eliminated. Any
parts that seem too dry are slightly moistened ; the sides are then

MUSHROOMS

441

Vfl

trimmed and trodden down well, so as to reduce the height to
about 2 ft. 8 in. The heap is then left until the heat produced by
the fermentation threatens to become excessive, which is denoted
by the hottest parts commencing to turn white. This usually
occurs in from six to ten days after the making of the heap. The
whole heap must then be taken down and made up again exactly
as before, taking care to make the interior of it consist of the
manure which was previously on the outside, and which was con-
sequently less fermented. It generally happens that within a few
days after the heap has been thus re-made, the fermentation
becomes so violent that the heap has to be thrown down and
re-made a third time.

Sometimes after the
second re-making, the
manure will be fit for
forming the beds. It
may be known when
this can be done with-
out any danger by the
manure having become
of a brown colour, the
straw having entirely
lost its usual consistence,
and the whole being
elastic and greasy to the
touch, and having no
longer the smell of fresh
horse-manure, but rather
that of the Mushroom.
It is difficult to obtain
a good preparation of
horse-manure unless a

sufficient quantity is Small movabie Mushroom-beds placed against a wall.

operated upon at once.

The heap should measure at least a yard, or a little more, every
way. This is a frequent cause of failure with amateurs, and
should be avoided. Even if a less quantity is required for the
beds, the manure should be prepared in a heap of at least the
dimensions we have just mentioned, and any of it that is not
required for the Mushroom-beds will be very useful for any other
kind of vegetables in the kitchen-garden.

When the manure is in a proper condition, it is brought to the
place where the Mushrooms are to be grown and made into beds
at once. The beds may be of any shape or size desired, but
experience has shown that both the manure and the space at
disposal will be employed to the best advantage by making the

442 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

beds from 20 to 24 in. high, and about as wide at the base. An
excessive rise of temperature from a fresh fermentation is less to
be apprehended in beds of this size than in larger ones. When
there is a good deal of room to spare, the best plan is to make the
beds sloping at both sides and of any length that may be thought
fit, but always of the same height and the same width at the base
as we have just mentioned. When the beds, however, are made up
against a wall or other perpendicular support, and have but one
sloping side, the width at the base should be less than the height.
Beds may also be made in old tubs, in casks sawn in two, or on
plain flat boards, in which cases the beds should be of a conical
shape, or in the form of the heaps of broken stones or road-metal
often seen on roadsides. In this way it is possible to carry beds
ready-made into cellars or other parts of dwelling-houses, where

one would not like to bring
in a lot of rough manure
and litter the place by
making the beds there.

The beds are made by
hand. The dung to be in
a fit condition must be
mellow and well divided,
and if hard or in lumps
must be crushed. The more
compact material should be
Mushrooms grown in a tub. again mixed with the straw

portion, so that the whole

will be of an equal texture. It should be placed in regular layers,
each layer being firmly trodden down. When the bed has attained
the proper height, the sides should be made slanting and carefully
trimmed, all projecting straws should be withdrawn and the surface
made smooth and firm.

After the beds are made it is best to wait a few days before
spawning them, in order to see whether any excessive fermentation
will ensue. This may generally be pretty well ascertained by
thrusting the finger into the bed, but the surest way is to use a
thermometer. As long as the temperature is over 30° C, or 86°
Fahr., the bed is too hot, and must be allowed time to cool down.
The cooling will be quickened by making a few holes here
and there in the bed with a stick, to allow the heat to escape.
When the temperature stands pretty steadily at about 25° C., or
78° Fahr., it is time to put in the spawn. This may sometimes be
found growing naturally in old hot-beds, or on the edges of manure
heaps, and may be used for this purpose ; but it is far better to
employ the dried spawn sold by seedsmen, which may be obtained
at all seasons, and which grows much quicker, is more to be

MUSHROOMS

443

depended on, and will keep good from one year to another. For a

few days before it is used, it should be kept in a moderately warm,

moist atmosphere, which has the effect of stimulating it into a more

speedy and certain growth. For that purpose, after having been

slightly moistened on both sides, it may be spread out on the beds

themselves or between

two beds. Just before

use, the spawn should

be broken up in pieces

about the length and

thickness of the hand

by half that width, and

each piece then inserted

lengthwise into the bed,

flush With the surface, Movable two-sided Mushroom-bed.

into openings made with

the hand, at a distance of from 10 to 12 in. each way, carefully

pressing the dung around each piece after insertion.

In beds of the usual height (from 20 in. to 2 ft.), two rows of
pieces are generally set, in such a way that those of the upper row
may be opposite the intervals between those in the lower row.
The pieces should only be buried their own depth in the bed, and
they are commonly put in with the right hand, while the left is
employed to excavate holes for their reception. If the bed has
been made in a place with a sufficiently high and steady tempera-
ture, there is nothing further to be done but to wait until the
Mushrooms appear. But if it has been made in the open air, or
in a* place exposed to a change of temperature, it should be covered
with straw, long manure, or hay, which will serve to confine a
certain amount of uniformly warm air around the bed.

If the work has been properly done, and the conditions are

favourable, the spawn should
commence to grow in seven or
eight days after it was placed
in the bed. At the end of that
time the beds should be ex-
amined, and any pieces which
have not germinated should be
replaced by fresh ones. The
failure of a piece to germinate
is indicated by the absence
of white threads from the manure which surrounds it. In a
fortnight or three weeks after spawning, the spawn should have
permeated the entire bed, and should begin to show itself at
the surface.

When this is accomplished, the pieces of spawn should be with-

Mushroom Spawn in Clumps.

444 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

drawn, or they would become mouldy and spoil the Mushrooms in
their immediate vicinity. The empty openings should be closed by
gentle pressure, the surface made smooth again, and the surround-
ing place carefully swept and cleaned of all decaying matter. The
top and sides of the bed should then be covered with a thin layer
of soil, for which a light mould should be used, slightly moistened,
but not too wet. If possible use virgin soil of a light nature and
containing some lime, or old plaster finely crushed, sieved, and
mixed with quarry sand. If the material chosen does not itself
contain saltpetre, give a watering with a weak solution of this or
liquid manure. The soil should not be thicker than about J in.,
and should be pressed down sufficiently to make it adhere firmly
to the surface of the bed in every part. When the surface becomes
dry, light waterings should be given sparingly. If the place is

Mushroom-bed in the Open Air, protected with Straw.

inclined to be dry, the surrounding soil or walls may be sprinkled
with water to help maintain the bed in a permanent state of moderate
moisture. Where a covering of litter or hay has been removed to
perform any operation, it must be replaced at once.

In a few weeks after the layer of soil has been added, sooner or
later according to the temperature, the Mushrooms begin to appear,
and, in gathering them, care should be taken to fill the cavities left
with the same soil which covers the bed. All injured or diseased
Mushrooms should be at once removed, together with the soil
adhering to them.

The bed will of itself continue to yield for two or three months,
and for a longer time if watered with liquid manure, guano, or
saltpetre ; the results being much better if the liquid is of the
temperature of from 20° to 30° C, or 70° to 86° Fahr., when
applied. Watering, however, should be done carefully, so as not

MUSHROOMS 445

to dirty the Mushrooms or interfere with their growth. By
making three or four beds under cover in the year, a continuous
supply may be secured ; and besides, during summer, beds may
be made in the open air, which will yield abundantly at a
trifling expense. Hot-beds, in which other plants are grown,
might have their sides and the spaces between the plants
spawned, and would often yield well, provided their temperature
was suitable for the purpose, and that care was taken to protect
the young Mushrooms' with a slight covering of soil as soon as
they commenced to grow.

The very interesting Paris culture of Mushrooms is fully
described, and illustrated with a variety of original woodcuts,
in " The Parks and Gardens of Paris," second edition ; and the
English market-garden culture is fully treated of in Shaw's
" London Market-Gardens."

Mushroom spawn produced by the old methods was apt to
degenerate. Some Mushroom growers to counteract this obtained
virgin spawn from spores born in farmyard manure heaps that had
remained long undisturbed ; but owing to the diversity of varieties
and differences in the cultural value of spawn thus obtained, it failed
to give satisfaction.

All attempts at raising virgin spawn by sowing the spores of
the best Mushrooms were fruitless until, in 1897, Dr. Repin, after
numerous attempts, discovered a way of producing virgin spawn.
This virgin spawn, now manufactured by Messrs. Vilmorin-
Andrieux et Cie. in their laboratory by Dr. Repin's process, is
characterised by great vigour of growth, and, being raised from
spores of the healthiest Mushrooms only, is entirely free from
the noxious bacterial organisms so prevalent in spawn not
sterilised by the new process, and is therefore not so liable
to be attacked by diseases — a fact which removes one great
hindrance to Mushroom growing. The virgin spawn is sold in
the form of compressed slabs or tablets, of handy size, thoroughly
pervaded by the spores. One hundred tablets weigh about eighteen
pounds.

Before using the tablets they should be revived, i.e. slightly
moistened on both sides, and laid out in a moist, moderately warm
place, i.e. on the prepared beds themselves or between two beds.
In five or eight days the tablets should be ready for use ; they will
then have an unctuous and fatty touch if pressed between the
fingers, as also the smell of Mushrooms if a small portion of the
inside is laid bare. Each tablet should then be split into two or
three pieces, each piece being used separately and set into the
bed in such a manner that the surface laid open is in contact with
the prepared manure. A rapid and even growth of the spawn
through the whole bed is thus secured.

446 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

MUSTARD (WHITE or SALAD)

Sinapis alba, L. Cruciferce.

French, Moutarde blanche. German, Gelber Senf. Flemish, Witte mostaard. Dutch,
Gele mosterd or mostaard. Italian, Senapa bianca. Spanish, Mostaza blanca.

Native of Europe. — Annual. — A plant of rapid growth. Stem
thick, often angular, branching, bearing incised leaves with rounded
segments ; flowers yellow, in terminal spikes ; seed-vessels slightly
hairy, terminating in a flat, membranous kind of beak, and swollen
at the sides over the seeds. There are usually from three to four
seeds in each side of the silique or pod, which is divided into two
parts by a thin membranous partition. The seeds are white, quite
spherical, and about the size of a Millet-seed. Their germinating
power lasts for four years. The seed may be sown in pots, either
in the open air or in a frame, and is cut as soon as the seed-leaves
are well grown and of a good green, which is usually about six or
eight days after the seed is sown. The leaves of this plant are
generally only sent to table while they are quite young, when they
are used in salads and for garnishing.

MUSTARD (BLACK, BROWN, or GROCER'S)

Brassica nigra, Koch ; Sinapis nigra, L. Cruciferce.

French, Moutarde noire. German, Schwarzer oder Brauner Senf. Flemish, Zwarte
mostaard. Dutch, Bruine mosterd or mostaard. Spanish, Mostaza negra.

Native of Europe.— Annual. — A plant with a rather slender
stem. Radical leaves oblong, lyrate ; stem-leaves becoming
narrower as they approach the top of the stem ; flowers yellow,
in terminal spikes ; siliques or seed-vessels long and slender, each
containing about twenty small, almost spherical, red-brown seeds.
The germinating power of the latter lasts for four years.

The Large-seeded Black Mustard is remarkable for the large
size of its yellow-green leaves. The Small-seeded Black Mustard
of Sicily appears to come nearer the wild form of the plant. Its
leaves are about one-third smaller than those of the Alsace variety,
and are also a darker green.

Like the White Mustard, this plant is only grown in kitchen-
gardens for the sake of its young leaves, which are similarly used,
and it is grown in precisely the same way. The ground seeds
form the mustard of commerce or grocer's mustard.

CHINESE CABBAGE-LEAVED MUSTARD

Native of China. — Annual. — A large plant, attaining the
height of from 4 to 5 ft. when in flower. Radical leaves very

CHINESE CABBAGE-LEAVED MUSTARD 447

Chinese Cabbage-leaved Mustard
(^ natural size).

large, often 14 to 16 in. long, lyrate, undulating in outline, and
with the edges often turned in underneath. The blade of the
leaf is of a delicate or yellowish green colour, and netted, and
sometimes almost crimped
like that of a Savoy Cab-
bage. The first leaves, which
are produced on the lower
part of the stem, are also
long and wide, but those
higher up become smaller,
until they are almost linear
near the top of the stem
when the plant is in flower,
being a little broader at the
base which clasps the stem.
Flowers yellow, broad, in
terminal clusters ; siliques
almost cylindrical, each con-
taining about twenty brown
seeds, a little larger than
those of the Black Mustard.
The germinating power of the seed lasts for four years. The
seed is sown, where the crop is to stand, in August, in the open
air, either in beds or in drills from 16 to 20 in. apart. After
sowing, the beds or drills should be watered a few times to ensure

germination, but when the
cool nights of September
arrive, the plants will re-
quire no further attention.
In about six weeks from
the time of sowing, the
leaves may commence to
be gathered, and the plants
will continue to yield until
very frosty weather sets
lilf in. The seed may also
be sown immediately after
winter, but the plants soon
run to seed, and never
yield as fine leaves as those
which are sown in autumn.

Chinese Tuberous-rooted Mustard. The leaves are eaten like

Spinach. They do not

lose much in substance by cooking, and they have a very
agreeable flavour. In warm countries they are highly esteemed
among green vegetables.

448

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Chinese Curled Mustard. — A curious variety of the Cabbage-
leaved Chinese Mustard. It has the good qualities of the type,

Chinese Curled Mustard.

and its elegant foliage is very useful for garnishing,
the culture are the same as for the type.

The uses and

NASTURTIUM, or INDIAN CRESS (TALL or LARGE)

Tropceolum majus, L. Tropceolacece.

French, Capucine grande. German, Kapuciner Kresse. Flemish and Dutch, Capucien-
kers. Italian, Nasturzio maggiore. Spanish, Capuchina grande. Portuguese,

Chagas.

Native of Peru. — Annual. — Stems
climbing, sometimes nearly 10 ft.
long when they find a suitable
support ; leaves alternate, long-
stalked, peltate, entire or bluntly
five-lobed, almost smooth ; flowers
long-stalked, large, with five orange-
coloured petals spotted with purple,
especially the two upper ones ; seeds
large, triangular, almost kidney-
shaped, convex on one side, furrowed
and wrinkled, and yellow-coloured.
Their germinating power lasts for
five years. The plant flowers con-

**™*y almost an through the

flower, £ natural size). summer.

NASTURTIUM (DWARF) 449

NASTURTIUM (DWARF)

Tropaolum minus, L. Tropaolacece*

French, Capucine petite. German, Kleine Indianische Kresse. Italian, Nasturzio
caramindo minore. Spanish, Capuchina pequena.

Native of Peru. — Annual. — A smaller plant than the preceding
kind ; the stem not so slender and not requiring support ; leaves
nearly round ; flowers yellow, with five petals, the three lower ones
especially marked with a purple spot ; seeds of the same shape as

that of the Tall Nasturtium, but usually
smaller, more wrinkled, and browner.
Their germinating power lasts for five
years. Sometimes dwarf varieties of
the Tall Nasturtiums are confounded
with this species.

The culture of Nasturtiums is of
the simplest. If sown during spring
and summer in the open ground where
the plants are to stand, they flower and
seed profusely in about two or three
months after sowing. The flowers are
used for garnishing salads. The flower-
Nasturtium (Dwarf) (Tv natural buds and the seeds, while young and

size^ detached flower, * natural ^^ are pickled {n vinegar and use(J

for seasoning, like Capers. For this

latter purpose the Dwarf Nasturtium is to be preferred, as it
flowers more abundantly than the Tall kind, and does not require
stakes or any other kind of support.

NASTURTIUM (TUBEROUS-ROOTED)

Trop&olum tuber osum, R. and P. Tropceolacece.

French, Capucine tubereuse. German, Peruanische Knollen-Kresse. Flemish,
Knoll-kapucien. Spanish, Capuchina tuberculosa.

Native of South America. — Perennial. — Roots tuberous, conical,
as large as a hen's egg, with scale-like swellings, yellow in
colour, striped with red, and pleasing in appearance ; stems
very branching, weak, about 3 ft. long ; leaves peltate, divided
into three or five blunt lobes ; leaf-stalks red ; flowers medium-
sized, with a long spur and rather small petals of a yellow
colour shaded with orange. The seeds seldom ripen in the
climate of Paris, and the plant is propagated from the tubers.

29

450

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The tubers are planted in April or May, in the open ground,
20 in. apart in every direction. The hoe should be used occa-
sionally until the stems, spreading on the
ground, cover it entirely. The tubers
should not be taken up for use before
the latter end of autumn, after the early
frosts, as they do not form until late in
the season, and are not affected by frost
as long as they remain in the ground.
When boiled like Carrots or Potatoes,
the tubers are watery and rather un-
pleasant to taste, although the perfume
is agreeable. In Bolivia, where the plant
is much cultivated in high mountain
districts, the people freeze the tubers after
boiling them, and they are then con-
sidered a delicacy and are largely con-
sumed. In other places they are eaten
in a half-dried state, after having been
M t Tr u x hung up in nets and exposed to the air

Nasturtium (Tuberous-rooted) f & r . .
(tubers £ natural size). f°r some time.

BLACK-BERRIED NIGHTSHADE
Solanum nigrum, L. Solanacece.

French^ Morelle noire. German^ Nachtschatten-Spinat. Italian, Erba mora.
Spanish, Yerba mora.

Native of Europe. — Annual. — A well - known wild plant,
generally regarded as a
weed, growing most usually
near dwelling-houses and
in cultivated ground. It
has an erect branching
stem from ij to 2j ft. long,
with simple, broad, oval
leaves, often wavy at the
edges. Flowers white, star-
shaped, growing in small
axillary clusters, and suc-
ceeded by round berries,
about the size of a pea, of
a black or, rarely, amber-
yellow colour, and rilled
with a green pulp, mixed
with very small pale-
yellow lenticular seeds.
The germinating power of

Black-berried Nightshade.

BLACK-BERRIED NIGHTSHADE

451

the latter lasts for five years. The kind which is cultivated in
the Isle of France, under the name of Brede, does not differ,
botanically, from the common kind, but is more vigorous growing
and larger in all its parts. The seed is sown where the plants
are to stand, in April, in beds, or, preferably, in drills 12 to 14 in.
apart. After being thinned out, the plants require no further
attention, and are quite proof against dry weather. The leaves,
however, are more tender and more plentifully produced if the
plants are occasionally well watered when they appear to need it.
This plant is not as yet used in France as a vegetable, but in
warm countries the leaves are sometimes eaten as Spinach, and
apparently without any injurious result, although the plant belongs
to the dangerous family of the Solanacece.

MALABAR NIGHTSHADE (WHITE)

Base/la alba, L. Chenopodiacece.

French, Baselle blanche. German, Indischer grliner Spinat. Flemish, Meier. Italian^
Basella. Spanish, Basela.

Native of the East Indies. — Biennial, but cultivated as an
annual. — A plant with creeping stems from 4 to over 6 ft. long,
bearing alternate, oval-heart-shaped, slightly undulated, fleshy,

green leaves. Flowers small, green or
red, in spikes ; seeds round, bearing
the remnants of the pistil and calyx,
which are persistent. Their germi-
nating power lasts for five years at
least.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in
a hot-bed in March. In the end of
May, or early in June, the seedlings
are planted out at the foot of a south
wall, and the plants will yield all
through the summer without any care
except occasional waterings.

USES. — The leaves are eaten like
Spinach, and are abundantly produced
all through the summer, growing in
greater profusion the warmer the
weather becomes. Care should be taken
not to strip a plant of all its leaves at
once, as this checks its growth.
Basella Cordifolia.— This is much like the Malabar variety, but
has larger, stouter, and darker green leaves; it is also more productive.
The culture and the uses are the same in both. An excellent
substitute for Spinach in hot climates during the dry summers.

Malabar Nightshade (White)
(^ natural size).

452 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

OKA-PLANT

Oxalis crenata, Jacq. Oxalidacece.

French, Oxalis crenelee. Flemish, Zuerklaver. Spanish (American), Oka.

Native of Peru. — Perennial, but cultivated as an annual. — Stem
fleshy, red, prostrate, bearing very numerous leaves, composed of
three rounded triangular thick leaflets ; flowers axillary, with five
yellow petals striped with purple at the base ; tubers swollen, long
ovoid, marked with hollows and protuberances (like some kinds of
Potatoes, especially the Vitelotte variety), and narrowed at the end
which joins the stem ; skin very smooth, and of a yellow, white, or
red colour.

CULTURE. — The Oka-plant is easily propagated from the
tubers, which are planted in May, in light rich soil, in rows
which should not be less than 3 ft. apart, on account of the

spreading growth of the
stems of the plant As
it continues to grow for
a long time and is very
sensitive to cold, it; is
better, if possible, to start
the tubers in a hot-bed in
March, and plant them
out in May, at which
time they will be pretty

Tubers of Oka-plant (£ natural size), forward. As the Stems

lengthen, they should be

covered with light soil or compost, in order to promote the
formation of new tubers, taking care to leave 6 or 8 in. of the
end of the stem uncovered. The tubers do not commence to
swell until rather late in the season, and are not gathered until
the ends of the stems have been killed by frosty weather. In
France they seldom grow as large as a hen's egg.

USES. — The tubers are highly esteemed in Peru and Bolivia,
where they are largely used. Recently gathered, they have a very
acid, and not very agreeable, taste. In South America they get rid
of this acidity by putting tubers into woollen bags and exposing
them to the action of the sun, the effect of which is that in a few
days they become floury and sweet. If they are kept thus exposed
for several weeks, they dry up, become wrinkled, and acquire a
flavour which resembles that of dried Figs. In this condition they
are known by the name " Caui" In addition to the tubers, the
leaves and young shoots may be eaten as salad or as Sorrel.

Two varieties of this plant have been introduced into France,
namely, the Yellow and the Red, differing from each other only in
the colour of the tubers. The Yellow variety has spontaneously

OKA-PLANT

453

produced a sub-variety, with pure white tubers, which reproduces
itself exactly, but appears to be inferior to the other two kinds in
vigour and quality for table use.

OKRA, or COM BO

Hibiscus esculentuSy L. Malvacea.

French, Gombo. Italian^ Ibisco. Spanish, Gombo ; {American}, Quimbombo.

Native of South America. — Annual. — Stem stout, erect,
branching but little or not at all, from. 20 in. to over 3 ft. high,
according to the variety ; leaves very large, five-lobed, toothed,
dark green on the upper surface, slightly gray underneath, with
very prominent veins ; flowers solitary in the axils of the leaves,
with five straw-coloured petals, brown or violet in the centre ;
fruit pyramidal, ending in a point, with five prominent ribs, and

divided into five cells or
compartments filled with
rather large gray or pale
green seeds, nearly spheri-
cal in shape and rough
skinned. The germinating
power of the latter lasts
for five years.

CULTURE. — Like the
Egg-plant and the Tomato,
the Gombo requires arti-
ficial heat in the climate
of Paris, while in warmer
climates it may be sown
and grown in the open air.
The seed is usually sown
in a hot-bed in February,
the seedlings are pricked
out into another hot-bed,
and are finally planted out
in May, after which the
plants only require plenti-
ful watering to attain their
full growth.

USES. — In the Colonies
the young and tender seed-vessels are very extensively used as a
table vegetable. They are exceedingly mucilaginous, and when
cut into thin slices are made into soups and sauces, which are
highly esteemed by the Creoles. The ripe seeds also are parched
and used instead of Coffee. The infusion which is obtained from

Long-fruited Green Okra (seed-vessels
\ natural size).

454 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

them is not inferior to that made from Chicory, Sweet Acorns,
Astragalus baticus, and other substitutes for Coffee.

Long-fruited Green Okra. — Stem short, seldom exceeding
20 in. in height ; leaves very deeply cut ; seed-vessels 6 to 8 in.
long, slender, long, pointed, and about I in. in diameter. This is
the kind most commonly cultivated. There is a sub-variety in
which the seed-vessels are pendent

Dwarf Prolific Okra. — Much grown in America, it is a small-
fruited sub-variety of the preceding one, and both early and
productive.

Round-fruited Okra. — Seed-vessels short and thick, being
about 2 in. long, and nearly 2 in. in diameter, and blunt at the ends
rather than pointed. This variety is dwarfer and earlier than the
preceding kind.

Early Sultani Okra. — Produces a number of short, thick fruit,
very like those of the preceding.

White Velvet Okra. — The American variety known by this
name is distinguished by its fruit, which is white, long, and
fairly large.

ONION

A Ilium Cepa, L. Liliacece.

French, Ognon. German, Zwiebel. Flemish, Ajuin. Dutch, Uijen. Danish, Rodlog.
Italian, Cipolla. Spanish, Cebolla. Portuguese, Cebola.

Native of Central or Western Asia. — Biennial, sometimes
perennial. — The original native country of the Onion is not known
with certainty ; within the last few years, however, M. Regel, jun.,
discovered, south of Kouldja, in Turkestan, a plant which had every
appearance of being the wild form of A Ilium Cepa, and we believe
the same plant has also been found on the Himalayas.

The Onion has no stem, or rather the stem is reduced to a
mere plate, from which issue, on the lower side, numerous white,
thick, simple roots, and on the upper side leaves, the fleshy, swollen,
and overlapping bases of which form the bulb of the Onion. The
form, colour, and size of the bulb are very much varied in different
varieties of the plant. The free portion of the leaves is elongated,
hollow, and tapering into a point at the end. The flower-stems,
which are very much longer than the leaves, are erect, hollow,
and swollen in the lower part for about one-third of their length.
The flowers, which are white or lilac, are severally borne on very
slender stalks, and are collected in a very dense spherical head
on the top of the flower-stem. Sometimes, instead of flowers, a
head of small bulbs is produced. This may occur exceptionally
in any of the varieties, but is an invariable characteristic of the
Tree Onion, which is thence named the Bulbiferous Onion. The

ONION 455

flowers are succeeded by capsules of an almost triangular shape,
filled with black, angular, flattish seeds. The germinating power
of the latter lasts for two years.

Usually,, the plant, after seeding, dies and disappears entirely ;
but sometimes we find Onions which produce cloves as well as
seeds. Such plants may be considered perennial, as well as the
Potato Onion, which never seeds and is propagated by division of
its bulbs.

The culture and use of the Onion date back to a very remote
period of antiquity. The strong odour and flavour of all parts of
the plant caused it to be valued in very early times as a seasoning,
and being easily grown, man has carried it with him into almost
every climate of the world. Hence a great number of varieties
have resulted, the best of which have become fixed, and form the
various kinds which are now in cultivation.

CULTURE. — The Onion, considered only with a view to the
production of bulbs for household consumption, is generally grown
as an annual plant, whether sown for a summer crop or sown in
autumn. For a summer crop, the seed is sown in spring, and the
crop is gathered at the end of summer or in autumn. In this case,
the entire growth of the plant is completed in the course of the
same year. This mode of culture is the general one in the central
and northern districts of France, where Onions are grown very
extensively and as a field crop. The seed is sown in the latter part
of February, or in March, in good, moist, but well-drained soil,
which has been well manured and well pulverised at the surface,
and at the same time is somewhat firm and compact underneath.
The seed, being rather small, should be only slightly covered. In
gardens, Onion-beds, after being sown, are often simply strewn with
leaf-mould or with grape skins from the wine-presses. When the
seedlings have grown pretty strong, they are thinned out more or
less, according to the size of the variety, and after that require no
further attention until they are fully grown. Watering is not
necessary except in unusually dry weather.

When the seed is sown in autumn, the growth of the plants is
continued from one year into the next. This mode of culture is
most common in districts where the winter is mild, as in the west
and all through the south of France. The seed is sown from
August to October, and the young plants are planted out either in
the course of the same autumn or as soon as the winter is over.
This way of growing Onions is not so simple as that first mentioned,
but the crop is finer and earlier. It is generally practised, as we
have just said, in southern districts, and it is in this way that the
enormous Onions which are sent during winter to our markets from
Spain, Italy, and Africa are raised. At Paris, too, it is almost the
•only way in which the Early White Silver-skinned Onion is grown.

456

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

This is sown in August or September, and the seedlings are
generally pricked out in October (the roots and leaves being
trimmed at the same time), and they are slightly sheltered during
the winter when the1 frost is severe. The bulbs are fit for use in
May. By sowing the New Queen variety in the same way, a crop
could, no doubt, be obtained in April.

Sometimes the Onion is grown as a biennial — that is, its culture
extends over nearly two whole years. In this case, the growth is
retarded by planting out, not young seedlings, but small bulbs
raised the year before by sowing very thickly in spring and growing
them on like summer Onions, but without thinning them. These
small bulbs, which are about as big as a Hazel-nut, easily keep
through the winter, and when planted out in spring increase in
size rapidly, and in a few months become as fine bulbs as those
obtained from plants grown on through the winter in the usual
way. This mode of culture was recommended a very long time
ago by MM. Lebrun and Nouvellon, who applied it to Onions of
every kind. At the present day it is generally practised, especially
in the east of France, with a yellow variety, the small bulbs of
which form an important article of commerce, under the name of
Mulhouse Onions. When the bulbs of this variety are fully
grown, it is very difficult to distinguish them from those of the
Strasburg Onion. The Brown Portugal Onion may also be grown
in the same way.

For good Onions there is always
a large demand, and late in the
season they fetch high prices. In
nearly all market - gardens round
London, Onions are grown to a
large extent both as summer and
winter crops. In the neighbourhood
of Lea Bridge large fields are devoted
to them, and from this district come
large quantities of the finest produce
brought to market. Great breadths
of Onions are also grown at Fulham,
Chiswick, Deptford, and Mitcham,
the land thereabouts being light and
rich and well suited for their cul-
ture. The main spring sowing,
which consists usually of the Dept-
ford and Reading varieties, is made
as soon after the middle of February
as the condition of the soil and
weather permits. If the seed be
good and is sown broadcast, nine
to twelve pounds per acre are used ;

but if sown in lines, only eight
pounds to the acre are needed.
Land intended for Onions is gene-
rally roughly trenched during winter
and thrown into ridges, so as to
become thoroughly pulverised and
sweetened by the action of the frost.
During dry weather in February the
ridges are levelled and the surface
rendered smooth by raking and roll-
ing, after which the seed is sown
either broadcast or in drills 9 to
10 in. apart. If small pickling bulbs
be desired, seed is sown broadcast
at the rate of twenty pounds per
acre. After sowing, the seed is raked
or harrowed in, and the operation
is completed by rolling the surface
firm and even. After the young
•Onions appear above the ground,
weeding and thinning are proceeded
with as may be required. Broad-
cast sowing is considered the best

ONION

457

for spring-sown crops, as involving
less labour ; and as the bulbs, after
thinning, stand at regular distances
apart over the whole area, the pro-
duce per acre is considerably more
than when sown in beds or lines.
Seed sown in the autumn is, how-
ever, sometimes drilled on beds 4 or

5 ft. wide, these being divided by
narrow alleys, which serve as walks
for labourers who weed the beds
and draw the crop as required for
market ; but this crop is also often
sown broadcast.

Onion seed takes a long time
to germinate, but if the ground be
clean and well tilled, weeds will not
appear much sooner than the Onions,
or, at least, not so thickly as to
choke them. As soon as the Onions
have fairly come up, women or men
accustomed to Onion-cleaning are
set to work amongst them. These
operators are furnished with short-
handled 2|-inch wide hoes, with
which they hoe down the weeds and
thin the whole crop with wonder-
ful certainty and expedition. The
field is marked off into strips for
the guidance of the hoers, to each
one of whom there is a space of

6 ft. given, so that were four cleaners
employed the strips would each be
24 ft. wide. People accustomed to
this work do not trample carelessly
about ; nor, indeed, can the crop be
materially damaged by doing so, for
the Onions that are thus prostrate
to-day are nearly erect to-morrow.
Each plantation is generally cleaned
by this means three times during
the season, the last cleaning being
made about the end of June or early
in July, and any large weeds that
appear after that time are pulled out
by the hand. Towards the end of
August or early in September the
Onions, being ripe, are harvested
when dry. Those that are green
and thick-necked are laid aside for

immediate sale; but the firm and
sound bulbs, particularly of the
Deptford kind, are either cleaned
of any loose scaly skins and spread
out a few inches deep over the floor
of a loft, or tied into bunches and
strung in pairs over poles or pegs in-
a loft or shed, so that they can be
marketed at any convenient season
during winter and spring.

The profits on a good crop of
spring-sown Onions are remunera-
tive, although they vary in some
seasons. Sometimes as much as
^45 per acre is made of them by
the grower, the purchaser being at
the expense of harvesting the crop.
At other times, however, ^30 per
acre is considered a good price.
The Silver-skinned Onion, which is
grown largely for pickling, is sown
on good land, the plants being left
as thickly as they come up, as the
closer they are together the sooner
they will cease growing in summer
and the better they will ripen their
bulbs. Good clean bulbs realise
from Ss. to los. per bushel in the
market. The autumn sowing of
Onions is made on ground cleared
of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, or other
early crops, in the end of July
for drawing in a young state from
September onwards, but the main
sowing is not made till about the
middle of August. The autumn
sowings are, as a rule, made in beds
about 5 ft. wide, and the seeds are
covered deeper than those of the
spring sowings. They are not often
made broadcast on fields, as they
must be weeded, not hoed, in
the process of cleaning ; the hoeing
would thin them too much. As
they are only required for drawing
when young they do not need to be
more than one-third of the distance
asunder required in the case of the
summer Onions. They are weeded
soon after they come up, and once,

458

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

or perhaps twice, during the winter
time. The weeding is done by
women in dry weather, each woman
taking with her a small round basket
to put the weeds into, rather than
throw them on the alleys. In
marketing these Onions they are
cleared off the beds in large patches,
and not by picking out the strongest
and leaving the weakest, as is gene-
rally done; and they are washed,
which makes them look white. If
a portion be intended for trans-
planting, a piece of well-prepared
rich ground is made ready for them,
rolled firmly, and lined off into rows
about 9 in. apart, and into these
lines the young plants are dibbled
about 6 in. apart. These make
large saleable bulbs early in July.
The kinds used for autumn sowings
consist of White Spanish, White

Tripoli or Lisbon. Some growers
save large quantities of Onion seed,
for which purpose well-formed bulbs
are selected and planted in spring
in rows which vary from 2 to 6 ft.
apart, Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, or
other low-growing vegetables being
grown as intermediate crops. After
the flower-stems make their appear-
ance they are staked at intervals,
and twine or cord is strained on
either side the rows to prevent the
stems being beaten down by hail,
rain, or wind. Ordinary Onion seed
fetches from 2S. to 5^. per lb.,
according to the season ; but the
best seed, or that from improved
or rare sorts, is more valuable. In
Hertfordshire large breadths of seed
Onions may be seen in July, and on
good deep land it is considered one
of the most profitable of crops. *

USES. — The bulbs are eaten boiled, raw, or pickled with
vinegar.

Small White Extra Early Barletta Onion.— Bulbs very
rapidly ; it is, in fact, the earliest of all Onions. Sown in the spring,
it roots within two months. The roots are large enough for

Small White Early Barletta Onion.

New Queen Onion (^ natural size).

pickles and even for kitchen use. The bulbs are white, small,
shaped like the White Lisbon Onion, flat on top and rather conical
at the bottom.

* Onions for Exhibition, see p. 763. Onion Fly see p. 777.

ONION

459

New Queen Onion. — Bulb small, very much flattened, silvery
white from li to if in. in diameter, and from i to i of an inch thick ;
neck fine, soon becoming green, if the bulbs are stored in the
expectation that they will keep ; leaves very short, dark, slightly
glaucous green, three or four, or at most five, in number when the
plant is fully grown. It is
not unusual to find, amongst
plants sown in spring, some
bulbs growing as large as
walnuts, and ripening without
forming more than two leaves.
This variety is an exceedingly
early one. If sown in March,
the bulbs begin to swell in the

Course of the following May; Early White Nocera Onion (i natural sue).

but, on the other hand, it is

not at all a productive kind, nor does it keep well.

Early White Nocera Onion. — This variety is probably only
a form of the preceding one which has been so modified by long-
continued cultivation in a colder climate than that of its native
district, as to have become larger in size and a little later in coming
to maturity. Bulb silvery white, flattened, broader and flatter than
that of the preceding kind, being from 2 to over 3 in. in diameter,
and from i to I in. thick ; neck fine ; leaves few, dark green. In
spite of every care taken in the selection of plants for seed, a small
percentage *of light brown or chamois-coloured bulbs will almost
always be produced. It is a very early kind, but at least three

weeks later than the New
Queen Onion, and, like
that variety, keeps badly.
Early Paris Silver-
skinned Onion. — Bulb
silvery white, flattened,
and of about the same
diameter as that of the
preceding kind — that is,
from 2 to over 3 in. —
but thicker, and formed
of more numerous and
more closely set coats ;
neck fine ; leaves of a
rather deep, slightly glaucous, green, and not numerous. This
variety is not so early as the preceding one, but keeps better ; yet
the bulbs are almost always sent to table quite fresh, and most
frequently before they are fully grown. It is one of the best early
Onions, and very probably originated from one of the early South

Early Paris Silver-skinned Onion (-j natural size).

46o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early White Valence Onion (£ natural size).

Italian varieties, which, when grown in the climate of Paris, exhibit

a tendency to become identical with this variety.

Early White Valence Onion. — Bulb not so broad as that of

the preceding kind, but thicker and larger, being less than 3 in. in

diameter, and from if to
2 in. thick ; leaves rather
numerous, of a yellow-
green colour. This variety
is rather early and pro-
ductive, and the bulbs are
tender, but do not keep
well. It is more suitable
for the southern than for
the northern parts of
France. As regards its
origin, it is more likely
that it is a smaller and
earlier form of the White

Lisbon Onion than that it has sprung from any of the kinds which

have been previously described.

White Round Dutch Onion. — Bulb a dull white, medium-sized,

very firm, with thick tough coats, and varying from 2 to nearly 3 in.

in diameter, and from ij to if in. in thickness. It is not so much

flattened as that of either the Early White Nocera or the Early

Paris Silver-skinned Onion, and is also somewhat later than these

varieties, but, on the other hand, it

keeps remarkably well. In this re-
spect it will bear comparison with

the good yellow or red varieties of

Onions. It is distinguished from the

white varieties hitherto described by

the outer coats of the bulb being

firm and tough, instead of being of

a delicate, brittle, and almost trans-
parent texture. In consequence of

this peculiarity the bulbs keep better,

and are never disfigured by the

greenish tinge which exposure to

the sun often produces on the bulbs

of the very early white varieties

of Onions. The American White

Portugal, or American Silver-skin,

Onion is so much like the White Round Hard Dutch Onion that

some consider the two to be identical. The White Portugal,

however, has generally the bulbs larger and more regular, though

not so firm as the Dutch variety.

White Round Dutch Onion
natural size.

ONION

461

tyfi

White Globe Onion.

White Globe, or Southport White, Onion.— Bulb silvery white,
almost exactly spherical, with a diameter of from 2f to 3^ in. every
way, very firm, with a fine neck, and keeping remarkably well ;
leaves dark green, slender,
and rather numerous.
This variety is about as
early as the White Lisbon.
Neapolitan Maggio-
jola White Onion.— An Aj
early and very large kind.
Bulb silvery white, 4 or
5 in. in diameter, and
about 2 in. thick ; flesh
tender; neck rather stout;
leaves numerous, and of
a peculiar light tint. This
variety derives its name
from the circumstance that
in Italy it attains its full
growth in the month of May, but it does not do so in France
until August. However, it is a comparatively early kind, con-
sidering its large size and great productiveness. It does not
keep well.

White Lisbon Onion. — Bulb round, more or less flattened,
sometimes irregular in shape, 3 to 4 in. in diameter when well grown,
and from about 2 to over 3 in. thick, often slightly pear-shaped in
the lower part ; neck rather thick ; leaves numerous, and yellow-
green. The flesh is not very firm, and, although it ripens rather
late, this variety does not keep very well. It is most usually
sent to table fresh from the ground, even in the south of France.
In England it is grown in immense quantities for use while

quite young and hardly formed, the
bulbs being scarcely larger than a
Walnut.

Large White Flat Italian
Tripoli Onion.— It is rather difficult
to procure this variety perfectly
true to name, and it does not appear
to be very extensively grown, even
in Italy. It is in all points an
exaggerated form of the Maggiojola
Anru-4. T • u ^ ~ - x variety, being one- third broader,

White Lisbon Onion (4- natural size). ff_ J ' , .to - .

often exceeding 6 in. in transverse

diameter, with a depth of about 3 in. The neck is thick, and
the leaves stout and dark green. The coats of the bulb are of
a pearly white when dried, but more or less green as long as

462

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

they retain any moisture. This is a half-late and productive
variety, and keeps tolerably well.

Brown Portugal, or Straw-coloured White Spanish, Onion
(Ognon Jaune Faille des Vertus}. — Bulb very much flattened, 3 to

4 in. in diameter, and about
2 in. thick, of a coppery
yellow colour, with firm
thick coats, which do not
easily come asunder, and
are deeper coloured in the
underground part of the
bulb than in the upper and
exposed part ; neck rather
fine; leaves numerous,
broad and dark green.
This is a rather early

Italian Tripoli Onion (* natural size). and exceedingly productive

variety, and keeps to per-
fection. It is the kind most commonly used for field culture
about Paris, and is grown in very large quantities in the neighbour-
hood of Saint-Denis, and as far as Normandy. The winter supply of
Paris and of a great part of Europe consists chiefly of this variety,
which may be often seen hanging up in dwelling-houses in long hanks
formed by interlacing and plaiting the withered leaves together.

Brown Portugal Onion
Q natural size).

Sulphur-coloured White Spanish Onion
(£ natural size).

Reading, or Sulphur-coloured White Spanish, Onion.— Bulb
quite flat, 3 to 4 in. in diameter, and 2 in. or less thick, very much
resembling that of the Brown Portugal, or Vertus, Onion, but of a
far less coppery colour, and very perceptibly not so thick ; coats
firm, rather thick, very closely set, of a bright, slightly green, almost

ONION

463

Danvers Yellow Onion (£ natural size).

brazen-yellow ; leaves light green, fairly broad and long. A

mid-season variety, very hardy and

productive, and keeps remarkably

well. This is the sort most generally

grown and cultivated in England.

There are many varieties of it grown,

of which Nuneham Park, Banbury

Improved, Naseby Mammoth, and

Cantello's Prize are the principal.
Danvers Yellow Onion. — Bulb

spherical or slightly flattened, coppery

yellow, and a little redder than the

Brown Portugal, or Vertus, Onion,

usually from 2§ to 3^ in. in diameter,

and nearly the same in thickness ;

coats numerous and closely set; neck

very fine, as is also the disc or plate

from which the roots issue ; leaves

medium-sized, and light green. This

is an excellent early kind, and keeps

very well. It is as well adapted for field culture as for the

kitchen garden, but should always be sown in spring. When

sown in autumn, we have always
found it to run to seed in the
following spring without bulbing
to any extent. It is an American
variety, and when first introduced
into France (about 1850) was
quite spherical in shape, but
now it grows almost always
more or less flattened, not only
in European gardens, but also
in its native country.

The English and American
varieties Australian Brown,
Cranston's Excelsior, Crew's Globe,
Golden Ball, Michigan Yellow
Globe, Up-to-Date, and Yellow
Globe, some small differences in
size, colour, and earliness apart,
may all be considered as de-
rivations of the Danvers Yellow.
Yellow Trebons Onion. —

Yellow Trebons Onion (| natural size). Bulb usually pear-shaped, more

or less elongated, about as long
broad, generally 3 to 4 in. every way, narrowed at the neck,

464

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Giant Zittau Onion

and very often at the other end ; inner coats of a bright yellow

colour, outer ones of a slightly coppery hue ; neck narrow ; leaves

numerous,butslender,
and dark green; flesh
tender, sweet, and of
an agreeable mild
flavour. This is a
half-late variety, of
remarkably good
quality, but rather
difficult to keep, and
answers equally well
for sowing in spring
or in autumn. It was
raised in the neigh-
bourhood of Tarbes
(Hautes- Pyrenees).
Giant Zittau

Onion. — Buib large, flattish, 4 to nearly 5 in. in diameter, and a

little over 2 in. thick ; outer skin very smooth and almost silky, of

a pale salmon-colour, forming the connecting link between the

yellow-skinned and the pale red-skinned varieties ; leaves pretty

numerous, of a light, slightly yellow, green ; neck fine, as is also

the disc, or part from

which the roots issue.

This is a fine mid-season

variety, and is most pro-
ductive and keeps very

well. It does best in

light, well-drained, but at

the same time rich and

well-manured soil.

Giant Spanish, or

Spanish King, Onion. —

A large, almost round,

light straw-coloured bulb,

tender and with very thin

coats, and about the size

of an orange. From the

South of France and

Algiers it is exported in

large quantities to Great

Britain.

The well-known and

much-prized American Onion known as the Prizetakeris so like the

Giant Spanish Onion that the two may be considered as identical.

Giant Spanish, or Spanish King, Onion,

ONION

465

James' Keeping Onion. — Bulb top-shaped, flattened on top
and narrowing into a blunt cone towards the roots ; the neck is
slender ; a very interesting variety of a very pretty chamois or
salmon colour. Its cnief
merit is its keeping
quality, the bulbs of the
true James' remaining
firm and solid up to mid-
summer in the following
year.

Very Early Rose-
coloured Port Sainte-
Marie Onion. — A small
flat bulb resembling the
Queen Onion in shape
and size, but with rose-
coloured, sometimes al-
most red, Skin. The Very Early Rose-coloured Port Saintc-Marie Onion.

neck is very small and

the leaves scanty, and early to die^off. Of all coloured onions,
it is much the earliest, and among the silver-skins it is second
only to the Early Queen by a few days. It is extensively grown
and very popular in Southern France.

Market Favourite Keeping Onion (O. de Mazi). — A very
pretty Onion of choice quality, which forms with the James'
Keeping Onion the link between the yellow and the red Onions.
It is in fact a salmon shade between yellow and rose. In shape, it
is very different from the James' Onion in being flat. The
foliage is scant and light. A half-early kind, bulbing rapidly, and

keeping well. Easy to culti-
vate, it is a good Onion for
the kitchen-garden as well as
for the market-grower.

Common Pale Red
Onion. — Bulb medium-sized,
flattened, 2 to nearly 3 in.
in diameter, and from 4 to
if in. thick, somewhat irre-
gular in shape ; outer coats
coppery pink ; inner ones a
darker shade, changing to a
purple ; neck rather thick ;
leaves pretty numerous, short,
and light green in colour. This is a hardy variety, and is very
generally grown. It is a half-early kind, and keeps tolerably
well, although it readily parts with its outer coats, like the kinds

3°

Market Favourite Keeping Onion.

466 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

which start to grow too soon. It is only suitable for spring
culture. There are very many local forms of it which hardly
differ from one another. That which is most frequently met
with in commerce is grown in the neighbourhood of Bourgueil,
in Touraine. The Pale Red Strasburg, or Dittch, Onion is closely
allied to the Common Pale Red Onion, differing from it only in
being a little more coppery in colour, and not quite so much
flattened in shape.

Niort Pale Red Onion.— Bulb broad and flat, 3 to 4 in. in
diameter (sometimes more), and from \\ to if in. thick, of a pale
pink, slightly tinged with copper colour, and with some purple on
the inner coats ; leaves numerous, erect, large, and light green;
neck rather fine. The outer coats of the bulb are thin and

\

Common Pale Red Onion Niort Pale Red Onion

(£ natural size). (£ natural size).

brittle, but it keeps well notwithstanding. This is an excellent,
early, and very productive variety, and is very highly esteemed
in the west of France. It answers well for sowing in spring,
but succeeds best in its native district when sown in autumn,
and transplanted either at the beginning or the end of winter,
for the winters are mild in Brittany, Vendee, and Poitou, where
it is chiefly grown.

The Lendoitre Onion, a great favourite in Poitou, is only a
form of the present variety which has a somewhat flatter and
harder bulb.

The Saint-Brieuc Pale Red Onion differs from the Niort variety
in having the bulb not so much flattened, yellower and less tinged
with red. It is also not so hardy. Of the two varieties the Niort
is preferable in every respect, and it has almost entirely superseded
the Saint-Brieuc even in Brittany.

ONION

467

Bright Red August Onion (£ natural size).

Early Flat Red Onion. — An exceedingly early variety, which
bulbs almost as soon as the Early White Silver-skinned Onion,
like which it has scanty and slightly glaucous leaves. The bulb
is very broad and flat in proportion to its depth, and is of a decided
red colour when dried a little,
but while growing, and also
underneath the outer coats, it
is more of a purple colour.
It is a good first-crop Onion,
but, like most very early
varieties, does not keep very
well.

Bright Red August
Onion. — This handsome
variety is not unlike the
Mezieres Onion described
further on, but the bulb is f'j
somewhat smaller, seldom i:if
exceeding 4 in. in diameter,
and about if in. in thickness.
It is usually thicker in com-
parison with its diameter than the Mezieres variety, and also less
flattened at the ends; its colour is a little darker on the outer
coats, and violet-red on the inner ones. An essential difference
between the two kinds is that the August variety is especially
suitable for sowing in autumn. It is chiefly grown in the south-
eastern parts of France, where it is sown in August and transplanted
in October, the crop coming in in the course of the following
summer. It is productive and keeps well.

Blood-red, or St. Thomas', Onion.— Bulb very much flattened.

seldom exceeding about
an inch in thickness, with
a diameter of from 2| to
3j in. ; coats firm, closely
set, of a deep wine-red on
the outside ; inner ones
of a fine, intense, brilliant
red ; neck fine ; leaves
rather stiff, compact, and
dark green. This is a
mid - season variety, not
very productive, but keeps
very well. It is hardy and easily grown, and is most in favour in
the northern districts of France.

In the south-west of France, especially about Bordeaux, a very
fine variety of Onion is sometimes met with under the plain name

Blood-red, or St. Thomas', Onion.

468

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of the Red Onion. The bulb of this variety is as highly coloured
as that of the Blood-red Onion, but in shape and size it more

resembles the Flat Tripoli.
It is sometimes nearly 5 in.
in diameter, and is very
much flattened at top
and bottom. The flesh is
tender and mild flavoured,
but the bulb does not keep
well.

In all the Red Onions
just described, the red
colouring is superficial.
When the bulbs are cut
across, two or three of the
outer coats are seen to
be pretty highly coloured,
while the interior ones are
hardly pink.

Globe Tripoli, or Globe
Red Madeira, Onion. —
This is the largest of all

Globe Tripoli, or Madeira, Onion ($ natural size), varieties of Onion. The

bulbs are almost spherical,

and it is not uncommon to see some of them 6 or 7 in. in diameter.
The outer coats are very thin and brittle, and salmon-pink in colour,
while the inner ones have a tinge of lilac. The flesh is very tender,
sweet, and mild flavoured. The neck is rather fine for the size of
the bulb ; leaves stout, numerous,
and light green. This variety does
best in warm climates, and in the
south of Europe is highly valued
for its size and agreeable flavour.
It only attains its full development
when sown in autumn. In the
climate of Paris it is very sensitive
to cold, and does not keep well.

Flat Tripoli, or Flat Red
Madeira Onion.— Bulb of large
size, broad, and very much flattened,
from 6 to 8 in. in diameter, and
about 2 in. thick, of the same colour
as the preceding kind, or a little
redder. The flesh, like that of the

Globe Tripoli, is tender, and the bulb keeps equally badly,
varieties are grown in exactly the same manner.

Flat Tripoli Onion

natural size).

Both

ONION

469

In order to obtain the enormous specimens of Tripoli Onions

which may be sometimes seen exposed for sale by dealers in

southern produce, the seed is sown in August, and the young

plants are planted out in

October and November. In

the following year their growth

is stimulated by continual

supplies of water and manure,

until July or August, when

watering is discontinued, and

in about a month afterwards

the bulbs are gathered, some

of them weighing two pounds

each or even more.

Blood-red Flat Italian Blood.red Plat Italian Omon ^ natural size).

Onion.— Bulb fiat, rather thick,

from 44 to 5} in. in transverse diameter and a little over 2 in. thick;

outer coats rather thick and dull red ; inner ones of a brighter

shade slightly tinged with violet ; flesh tender and not very close ;

leaves numerous, stout, and dark green. This is a half-late variety,

and rather difficult to keep. It does better when sown in autumn

than when sown in spring, and is especially suitable for warm

climates. When grown in northern countries, it quickly alters,

losing much of its size, and at the
same time becoming closer in
texture and stronger in flavour.

Giant Rocca Onion.— A very
handsome and good variety, of
Italian origin. Bulb somewhat
smaller than that of the Tripoli
Onion, and still further distin-
guished from it by being chamois
colour rather than pink, and flat on
the top. The neck is fine for the
size of the bulb, and the outer coats
are firmer and tougher than those
of the Tripoli Onions. The leaves
are stout (but not excessively so),
stiff, and a light green. A well-
grown bulb will have a diameter
of nearly 5 in., with a thickness of
about 3^ in. This is a half-late
variety, very productive, keeps well,

and, for a southern kind, does not do badly when sown in

spring, although it succeeds far better when sown in autumn.

A sub- variety is grown in Italy, under the name of Rose-coloured

Giant Rocca Onion ($ natural size).

470

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Rocca, which differs from the Giant Rocca only by its russet

colour.

Pear-shaped Onion. — There are numerous varieties of long-
bulbed Onions, which
differ from one another
in colour and earliness.
In these, the broadest
part of the bulb is usually
nearer to the neck than
to the roots, so that the
bulb narrows more ab-
ruptly at the neck end
than it does towards the
roots, and resembles a
Pear with its stalk down-
wards. In Spain a White
Pear-shaped Onion is
cultivated. This is a late
and large-sized kind, often
growing nearly 5 in. long
and about 3 in. in

Pear-shaped Onion (£ natural size).

diameter. In France and Germany there are several other varieties
of Pear-shaped Onions with a red or yellow skin, one of which
grows so long that it is named the Ox-horn, or Spindle-shaped
Onion. These varieties,
however, are more curious
than useful.

Tree, Egyptian, or
Bulb - bearing, Onion. —
Bulb rather flat, coppery
in colour. Instead of seeds,
the stem produces at the
extremity a cluster of small
bulbs, of a brown-red colour,
from which the plant is
propagated. When planted
in spring, these small bulbs
form large ones by the end
of the year, but do not
produce any bulblets until
the following year. The

flesh of the Tree Onion Tree» Egyptian, or Bulb-bearing, Onion (TV natural
IS agreeable, but rather size ; detached bulblets, i natural S1ze).

deficient in delicacy of flavour.
bulblets keep very well.

Catawissa Onion. — Some years since a variety was introduced

The bulbs soon decay, but the

ONION

from America under the name of the Catawissa Onion, which
appears to us to be only a slight modification of the Tree Onion,
from which it is distinguished by the great vigour of its growth
and the rapidity with which the bulblets commence to grow
without being detached from the top of the stem. These have
hardly attained their full size when they emit stems which also
produce bulblets, and in favourable seasons this second tier of
bulblets will emit green shoots, leaves, or barren stems, bringing
the height of the plant up to over 2\ ft. Only a small number of
bulblets (two or three on
each stem) emit shoots. The
rest do not sprout in the
first year and can be used
for propagating the plant
The plant is perennial, and
may be propagated by
division of the tufts, like the
Welsh Onion.

Potato Onion. — Bulb
rather large, from 2 to over
3 in. in diameter, and about
2 in. thick ; skin thick and
of a coppery yellow colour.
This variety more frequently
forms a cluster of under-
ground bulbs of irregular
shape than a single round
bulb. It produces neither
seeds nor bulblets, and is
propagated only from the
cloves or bulbs which are formed underground. If pretty strong
cloves are planted immediately after winter, well-grown Onions
may be gathered from them in the following June ; but if the
plants are allowed to attain full maturity, instead of a single
bulb from each, seven or eight will be produced of various sizes.
The strongest of these will also in their turn produce a number of
bulbs or cloves, while the weaker ones generally grow into a single
large bulb. The flesh of the Potato Onion is very agreeable to
the taste and of good quality. The larger the bulbs are, the worse
they keep.

Among the very numerous varieties of Onions which exist
in addition to those just described, the following are the most
noteworthy : —

Ognon d'Aigre. — A local variety, grown in the Department of
Charente, which may be regarded as a sub-variety of the Niort
Pale Red Onion, but has a flatter bulb.

Catawissa Onion (5 natural size).

472 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

O. Rouge Pale d'Alais. — A southern variety, suitable for sowing
in autumn. It is tolerably like the Niort Pale Red Onion, but is
thicker in the bulb.

O. Faille Gros de Bale. — A rather handsome, half-early variety,
with a flat, well-shaped bulb, and a very fine neck, intermediate in
colour between the White Spanish and the Strasburg Onion.

Bedfordshire Champion Onion. — A fine English variety.
Bulb nearly spherical, and of the colour of the sulphur-coloured
White Spanish Onion. It is a little thicker than the Naseby
Mammoth and its allies, which are mentioned farther on.

Dark Red Brunswick Onion. — Bulb very flat, rather small,
seldom exceeding about 2\ in. diameter, and about an. inch or less
thick, hard and firm, of such a deep red colour that it verges on
black ; neck fine ; leaves short, rather slender, and a dark, slightly
glaucous, green. This is a moderately productive kind, but keeps
remarkably well.

Ognon Cabosse. — Bulb very flat and rather firm, with a very fine
satiny skin of a slightly coppery or salmon-pink colour. The neck is
very fine, and the disc or plate from which the roots issue is remark-
ably small. This fine variety is well adapted for sowing in autumn.
Cantello's Prize Onion. — Intermediate between the White
Spanish and the Strasburg Onion, it comes near the numerous
English varieties which are referred to the Deptford Onion.

Ognon Rouge de Castillon. — A handsome red flat Onion of large
size, which is brought to Bordeaux in considerable quantities in
autumn. It is tolerably like the Mfeieres Onion, but is often
larger — more about the size of the Flat Tripoli. Like most large
tender-fleshed Onions, it keeps badly.

Chamois Glatte Wiener Zwiebel. — A handsome coppery pink
variety, with a fine neck and somewhat irregular shape. The

Zittau Giant Onion appears
to be an improved form of it.
O. Paille de Chateau-
Renard. — The bulb of this
variety is more of a coppery
or salmon colour than a true
yellow, which its name would
appear to indicate. It bears
__ „ a great resemblance to the

Lescure Onion,
Como Flat Yellow Onion. Como ^ ^^^ Q^^

— A small handsome Onion, coppery yellow in colour, with very
thin silky outer coats ; the bulb is very flat, less than an inch in
diameter. It is much grown near Como, in Lombardy. It is a
-quick grower and keeps well. It is sold during the winter in long
hanks like the Straw-coloured Vertus Onion.

ONION

473

Mulhouse Onion.

Deptford, or Essex, Onion. — This variety is very closely

allied to the Straw-coloured Vertus, but is a little redder in colour

and usually less in diameter. It is a productive and pretty early

kind, and keeps well. The general practice is to sow it in spring ;

but it is often grown from

small bulbs raised in the

previous year from thick

sowings. These small bulbs

form an important article

of commerce under the name

of Mulhouse Onions. The

Brown Spanish, or Oporto,

Onion is also frequently

grown in the same way.
Extra Early Flat Red

Onion. — An American

variety. Bulb very flat, of

the same size and earliness as the Early White Silver-skinned

Onion, but dark red tinged with violet. It is a very distinct kind,

and bulbs remarkably early.

O. Geant de Garganus Blanc.— Corresponding to the American

Mammoth Silver King. An Italian variety, in shape and earliness

almost the same as the Paris Silver-skin Onion, but larger in size.
O. Geant de Garganus Rouge. — Corresponding to the American

Mammoth Pompeii Onion. A very large onion, deep red in colour,

related to O. de Genes.

Ognon de Genes. — Bulb red, of medium size, often splitting into

several cloves. It is earlier and smaller than the Blood-red Flat

Italian Onion.

Large Yellow Dutch Onion. — An American variety. Bulb

yellow, of medium size, nearly
the same shape as that of the
Straw-coloured Vertus Onion,
but of a more coppery colour,
like that of the Danvers Onion.
Yellow Lescure Onion. —
A handsome kind, much grown
in the vicinity of Toulouse,
and all through Languedoc.
It is chiefly adapted for
sowing in autumn. The bulb
somewhat resembles that of
the Niort Pale Red Onion, but

is not so flat, and its colour is much more of a yellow or coppery tinge.
Bright Red Mezieres Onion.— Bulb flat, very broad, sometimes

4 or 5 in. across, and about 2 in. thick, of a fine intense red colour,

Bright Red Mezieres Onion.

474 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

slightly tinged with purple on the inner coats ; neck rather stout ;
leaves large, numerous, erect, and dark green in colour. A very
handsome and exceedingly productive variety. It keeps well, and
is very suitable for sowing in spring.

Ognon Monteragone. — An Italian variety. Bulb medium-
sized, thickish, with a coppery red skin, and rather like that of
the Strasburg Onion.

Naseby Mammoth, Nuneham Park, and Improved Reading
Onion. — These three varieties are so like one another that they
may be considered identical. They are a form of the White
Spanish Onion with the bulb thicker and somewhat darker
coloured than that of the ordinary variety.

Niirnberger Zwiebel.— A German variety of the Common Pale
Red Onion, from which it is distinguished by the smallness of the
bulbs, which are also somewhat firmer and better shaped.

O. de Puyregner, or O. Rouge Rose d' Angers. — In Anjou this
variety is considered different from the Niort Pale Red Onion.
We mention it here merely to state this, as from all the comparative
trials we have made with it, it appears to us to be exactly the same.

Red Globe Onion. — An American variety, apparently only a
spherical-bulbed form of the Wethersfield Onion.

O. Rouge Monstre. — A kind of Tripoli Onion, intermediate in
shape between the Globe and the Flat varieties, and of a very
decided red colour.

Yellow Russian Onion. — An exceedingly distinct kind.
Bulbs rather small and thick, with the fault of frequently splitting
into cloves, but still keeping better than any other kind. We have
seen bulbs of this variety which were gathered in autumn keeping
good for use until September of the following year. The outer
skin is very leathery ; it is of a coppery colour, like that of the
Strasburg Onion, but with age becomes as brown as the skin of
a Tulip bulb.

O. Brun de Saint-Laurent. — Of Italian origin, bulbs top-
shaped, almost flat, copper-yellow, tending to brown. A vigorous
late variety.

O. Rouge de Salon. — A southern variety, with a large but rather
soft bulb, like that of the Tripoli Onions. In colour it quite
resembles the Blood-red Flat Italian Onion, but it is notably
thicker.

O. de Teneriffe.— A very distinct small-sized variety, with a
very flat bulb of a grayish pink colour. This is the earliest of all
varieties next to the New Queen Onion, being even some days
earlier than the Early White Nocera. It may be here remarked
that in sowings of the last-named variety some coloured bulbs are
almost always found which bear a marked resemblance to the
Teneriffe Onion.

ONION 475

O. Rouge Pale de Tournon. — A very handsome, pink-tinged,
yellow Onion, of rather large size, flat, and early. It greatly
resembles the O. Jaune de Lescure mentioned above.

Two-bladed Onion. — A very early small-sized kind, copper-
red in colour, with a fine neck, almost sunk in the bulb. When
this variety comes true from seed, most of the plants have only two
or three leaves each, from which peculiarity it takes its name.

O. de Vaugirard. — This name is sometimes given to a some-
what earlier form of the Early Paris Silver-skinned Onion, but the
variety is not well established nor very constant.

O. de Villefranche. — A handsome, medium-sized, very flat, and
fine-necked variety, yellow pink or salmon colour. It is an early
kind, keeps well, and is not unlike*-the Lescure Onion.

Wethersfield Onion. — A very handsome American variety,
with a very smooth, clean-skinned bulb, almost spherical, or slightly
flattened at the ends. In shape and size it comes very near the
Danvers Yellow Onion, and, like that variety, has an exceedingly
fine neck ; but it differs entirely from it in colour, being of a bright
red, like the Mezieres Onion. The leaves are slender, long, and of
a clear green colour. This a half-early kind, and keeps well. In
its original form the bulb was quite spherical, but at the present
day it is seldom found, even in America, without having the ends
somewhat flattened, and wherever the primitive form occurs it is
known as the Lar^e Red Globe Onion.

White Globe Onion. — Under this name is grown in England
a variety with a spherical bulb of the colour of the White Spanish
Onion — that is, a pale or greenish yellow. It is important not to
confound this variety with the Globe Silver-skinned Onion, which
is really white.

WELSH ONION, or CIBOULE

A Ilium fistulosum, L. Liliacece.

French, Ciboule. German, Schnittzwiebel. Flemish, Pijplook. Dutch, Bieslook.
Danish, Purlog. Italian, Cipolleta. Spanish, Cebolleta. Portuguese, Cebolinha.

Native of Siberia or the East. — Perennial, but cultivated as an
annual or biennial. — A plant very closely allied to the Common
Onion in its botanical characteristics, although it does not form a
bulb, properly so called, but only a small enlargement at the base
of each shoot. Leaves numerous, hollow, rather dark green in
colour, somewhat glaucous, and 10 to 14 in. long. In the second
year the flower-stem makes its appearance and grows about 20 in.
high ; it is swollen about the middle and terminates in a spherical
cluster of flowers like those of the Common Onion.

CULTURE. — The plant may be propagated by division, as each
of the stems which are swollen at the base will speedily produce

476

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

a new tuft ; but, as it seeds abundantly, and the plants are apt to
suffer in a severe winter, it is most usually raised from seed in
preference. The soil should be good, and both well manured
and well dug. The seed is sown, where the plants are to stand,
from February to April or May. The only attention afterwards
required is to water the plants and keep the beds free from weeds,
as with Onions. In three months' time after sowing, the first
cuttings of the leaves for use may be made.

USES. — The leaves, which have a strong Oniony flavour, are
used for seasoning.

Common, or French Red, Welsh Onion, or Ciboule. — Bulbs
or enlargements very long, coppery red, and covered with dry

membranes, like the outer coats
of the Common Onion, which also
cover the bases of the leaves for
some distance above ground ; seed
black, angular, flattened, and con-
cave on one of the sides or faces,
and quite like the seed of the
Common Onion. Its germinating
power lasts for two or three years.
This is the variety which is most
commonly grown. It is produc-
tive and comparatively hardy.

Early White, or English,
Welsh Onion. — A very distinct
variety, having the bulbs or en-
largements shorter than those of
the preceding or ordinary kind, and
with pinkish white coats, silvery
white above ground. Leaves short
and stiff, dark glaucous green, not so strong to taste as those of
the ordinary kind, and more delicate in flavour. The seed also is
smaller. Its germinating power continues for the same length of
time. This variety appears to be sensitive to cold. In winter it
loses its leaves entirely, but sends out new ones early in spring.

Common Welsh Onion, or Ciboule
(£ natural size ; detached stem,
\ natural size).

PERENNIAL WELSH ONION
A Ilium lusitanicum^ Lamk. Liliacea*

Ciboule vivace.

Bulbs numerous, very long, a rather deep red-brown, attached
to a common disc at the base ; leaves a very glaucous green, stiff,
thick, and numerous. The plant sometimes produces flower-stems,
which terminate in a globular cluster of pale violet-coloured flowers

PERENNIAL WELSH ONION

477

yielding no seed. This Onion is always multiplied by division of
the tufts, and with this exception its culture is exactly similar to
that of the ordinary variety.

ORACHE

Atriplex hortensis, L. Chenopodiacece.

French, Arroche. German, Gartenmelde. Flemish and Dutch, Melde. Italian, Atreplice.
Spanish, Armuelle. Portuguese, Armolas.

Native of Tartary. — Annual. — A plant with broad, arrow-shaped,
slightly crimped, soft, pliable leaves. Stems 5 to 6J ft. high, angular,
and furrowed; flowers apetalous, very small, green or red, according
to the variety ; seed flat, russet-coloured, surrounded by a leafy
membrane of a light yellow colour. The plant also produces
some seeds, which are black, small, and disc-shaped, without any
membranous appendage. These are not always fertile. Their
germinating power lasts for six years.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown, where the plants are to stand,
in the open ground in the beginning of March, usually in drills.
When the seedlings have made three or four leaves, they should
be thinned out, after which
they require no further at-
tention, except occasional
watering in very dry
weather. The plants bear
hot weather pretty well,
but soon run to seed, on
which account it is advis-
able to make successional
sowings from month to
month.

USES. — The leaves are
eaten boiled, like Spinach
or Sorrel, and are often
mixed with the latter to
modify its acidity.

The following are the
three principal kinds of
Orache which are most
commonly cultivated in
France : —

White Orache.-This mite or Yellow Orache'

variety is more commonly grown than any other kind. The leaves
are a very pale green, almost yellow.

Dark Red Orache. — The stems and leaves of this variety are of
a dark red colour, which gives it a very distinct appearance. The
red colour disappears in cooking.

478 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Green Orache, or Lee's Giant Orache. — A very vigorous kind,
with a stout, angular, branching stem. The leaves are rounder and
less toothed than those of the White variety, from which they differ
also in being dark green.

There is also a variety grown which has pale red or copper-
coloured leaves. This, however, does not possess any special merit.

Within the last few years some persons have spoken very highly
of Chenopodium auricomum, Lindley — a tall, branching plant with
rather small leaves. This does not appear to be in any way superior
to the Common Garden Orache, except perhaps for warm climates.

SPANISH OYSTER PLANT.— See Thistle, Golden
VEGETABLE OYSTER.— See Salsafy

PARSLEY

Apium Petroselinum, L. ; Petroselinum sativum, Hoffm. Umbelliferce.

French, Persil. German, Petersilie. Flemish and Dutch, Pieterselie. Danish, Petersilje.
Italian, Prezzemolo. Spanish, Perejil. Portuguese, Salsa.

Native of Sardinia. — Biennial. — During the first year of its
growth the Parsley-plant only forms a more or less full rosette of
long-stalked leaves, which are two or three times divided, and
dark green in colour ; the divisions are toothed, more or less
entire, or, in some varieties, finely cut. The flower-stem, which
does not appear until the second year, is erect, branching, furrowed,
and from 2 to over 2\ ft. high. Flowers small, greenish blue in
colour, in terminal umbels ; seeds three-sided, grey or light brown,
flat on two sides and convex on the third, where they are marked
with five prominent ribs. They are strongly aromatic, like all the
other parts of the plant. Their germinating power lasts for three
years at least.

CULTURE. — The seed may be sown in the open air, from March
to August or September, either on the edges of beds containing
other plants or in separate beds, in drills 10 or 12 in. apart. It is
usually rather slow in germinating, seldom doing so in less than a
month. If the seedlings are properly thinned, and the beds kept
free from weeds and frequently watered, some leaves will be fit
to cut in about three months after sowing. It is a good plan to
cut only the best-grown leaves one by one, as Sorrel leaves are
gathered, as when this is done the plants yield a more prolonged
supply than when whole tufts are cut off at once. As Parsley is
somewhat sensitive to cold, it is advisable, in order to keep up the
supply in winter, to put a frame over a bed in full bearing, choosing, if
possible, one containing young plants which were sown about August.
Old well-established plants also might be taken up and forced in
a plant-house or a hot-bed, in the same way as Asparagus stools.

PARSLEY

479

Simple as the matter is to many,
others find it difficult to secure a
constant supply of good Parsley,
owing to haphazard ways of sowing
and to subsequent neglect. The
following extracts from Gardening,
written in reply to a question on
the subject, furnish good general
cultural directions :

"An open plot should be selected,
but it should be protected from the
northern and eastern winter's blast.
This should be trenched, or at least
deeply dug, and liberally manured.
The seed should be sown the first
week in June, so that the plants may
get large and strong before winter
sets in. When the seedlings are
large enough, they should be thinned
out to at least a foot apart each way.
I should have stated that, as the
plants grow- but slowly in winter, a
much larger piece of land must be
sown than would be required for a
summer's supply. It would be ad-
visable to make a sowing in a pit or
frame for use when frost and snow
are on the ground ; or if four short
stakes were driven into the ground,
and connected with cross-pieces,
so as to be in readiness for laying
boards, faggots, or wattle hurdles
across on the approach of hard
frost, the same end would be at-
tained. A sowing should be made
in July for late spring use. March
is the time to sow for a summer
supply. Sometimes failure ensues,
not from defective cultivation, but
because the young seedlings are
destroyed by vermin as soon as
they appear; or, as is often the
case, as the seeds must not be
buried deep, and are a consider-
able time germinating, when dry
weather sets in after sowing, the
seeds perish. To guard against
failure from either of these causes,
at the same time the seeds are sown
in the open ground some should be

sown in a box or pan, so that should
failure arise in the first instance,
there would be a supply of young
seedlings that could be potted into
small pots. These young plants,
when ready, should be put out in
the ground where the seeds failed
to germinate. It is safer to shift
the young seedlings into small pots
than to prick them into boxes, be-
cause when, in the latter case, they
are taken up with balls of earth and
puHnto the ground, the injury done
to the roots in the operation causes
flagging, and makes the plants very
palatable to slugs. Nor is the pot-
ting so formidable a matter as to
some it might appear. Old potting
stuff or common garden soil would
do for the purpose, and a man of
ordinary quickness would pot off
a hundred plants in an hour." —
L. C. R.

" Sow thinly in March and again
at the end of July for succession on
land that has been heavily manured
for the previous crop, and which
should be deeply trenched. Sow
in beds broadcast when the ground
is dry, and well tread in. By doing
so, some of the seeds will be in the
exact depth to germinate freely and
make nice healthy plants, which
should be left when thinning out,
say 12 in. apart if large specimens
are required. A slight dressing of
soot will be of service when plants
are thinned, which put on when
damp. If your soil is light in tex-
ture, well roll or tread, as I find
Parsley does well with me on light
soil when ground is so treated." —
E. T. P.

" In preparing a Parsley bed, the
soil should be removed to the depth
of 6 or 8 in., and filled in with
stones, brick-rubbish, and similar
loose material ; on the top a good
depth of rich soil should be placed,
which should be raised above the

480

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

level of the ground. Sow at the
end of May seed of the most early
variety. If the weather continues
dry, water frequently until the
plants are up, which will be in
five or six weeks. When large
enough, thin them out to 4 or 5 in.
apart. Parsley when well up re-
quires very little water; the roots
should be kept in a rather dry
state."— A. N.

"It is thought that Parsley will
grow anywhere, but I have found
that in some classes of soil the
roots are attacked by canker of
some kind. The main stem has a
rusty appearance, and many of the
fibrous roots decay. You should
work the ground to the depth of a
foot, giving it a good dressing of
rotten stable manure. Sow the
seeds in March. To make sure of
Parsley in winter, the leaves must
be cut off about the first week in

September; this will be the cause
of a sturdy late autumn growth,
which will stand best through the
winter." — J. D. E.

MARKET - GARDEN CULTURE. —
Parsley is grown to a large extent in
some market-gardens about London,
whilst in others none can be found.
The seed is sown in successional
batches from March to August in
rich soil, and generally where the
plants are to remain, transplantation
being considered detrimental to its
producing good foliage; it also in-
duces the plants to run to seed
sooner than they otherwise would
do. When up, the young plants
are thinned out to a proper dis-
tance apart by means of hoes, and
some growers protect a large bed
of it during winter; but, as a rule,
this kind of treatment 'is not con-
sidered sufficiently remunerative to
be carried out on a large scale.

USES. — The leaves, which are aromatic, are much used, raw,

fried or boiled, for flavouring, garnishing, etc.

Common, or Plain, Parsley. — The characteristics of this plant

being exactly the same as those of the typical species described

above, we need not re-
peat them here, and shall
merely observe with re-
spect to this form of
Parsley that it is the
only one that might be
easily confounded with
Fool's Parsley (^Ethusa
Cynapium, L.), a native
and virulently poisonous
plant. The leaves of the
two plants are so much

Common, or Plain, Parsley ft natural size). alik? that CVen a Poetical

gardener cannot distin-
guish one from the other with certainty unless he tests them by
taste and smell. When Parsley is grown for flavouring sauces,
etc., every care should be taken to prevent a poisonous plant being
mistaken for it This could be done most effectually and easily by
making it a rule never to grow any kind except the Curled-leaved

PARSLEY

481

or Fern- leaved varieties, which are quite as good for flavouring as
the Common Parsley, and much better for garnishing. As these
kinds do not seed very plentifully, and require some care to keep
the varieties pure, the seed is rather dearer than that of the
Common Parsley, but so little of it is sufficient for a garden, and
the perfect security from danger which is ensured by growing only
these kinds is so precious, that the matter of cost is really hardly
worth mentioning.

Double-curled Parsley. — In this variety, the divisions of the
leaves are rather deeply cut, and eacl^ of the small segments thus
formed is more or less turned back on the upper side, giving the
whole leaf a crisped or curled appearance which has a rather
pleasing effect.

In some forms of Curled Parsley, the segments of the leaf are
turned back so much as to show almost the whole of the under-
side, which is of a paler and grayer green than the upper side. Of
this kind are the forms known as the Windsor Curled Parsley and
Smith's Curled Parsley. These kinds are not so pleasing in appear-
ance as the Common Curled Parsley, as their leaves always have
something of the look of being blemished or diseased.

Champion Moss-curled Parsley.— Resembles the Double-
curled Parsley, and, like
the latter, is easily told
from all wild plants of
the Umbelliferce tribe. Its
dark green colour makes
it useful for garnishing.

Double-curled Dwarf
Parsley. — A sub-variety
of Curled Parsley, remark-
able for the fineness of
the cutting and the great
number of the divisions of
the leaves. The segments
touch one another, and give
the leaf the appearance of
a piece of very dense Moss.
In this form the leaf-stalks
are exceedingly short, so
that the leaves almost lie upon the ground, forming a very low
thick tuft. This is the best Parsley of all to use for decorative
purposes, and for garnishing dishes. It is also quite as aromatic as
the other kinds.

Fern-leaved Parsley.— In this variety the leaves are not curled,
but are divided into a very great number of small thread-like seg-
ments, giving to the whole plant a very light and graceful appearance.

3*

Double-curled Dwarf Parsley (£ natural size).

482

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The plant is also distinguished by the very dark green colour of
the leaves. It is one of the most difficult kinds to preserve quite
pure.

Hamburgh, Large-rooted, or Turnip-rooted Parsley.— I rrthfs
kind of Parsley it is not the leaves, but the thick fleshy roots, which
form the edible part of the plant. These
roots, which are of a dingy white colour,
and almost like Parsnip roots, often grow
6 in. long, with a diameter of 2 in. in the
thickest part, which is usually close to the
neck. The flesh is white and somewhat
dry. In flavour it resembles the Celeriac,
or Turnip-rooted Celery, but is not so
delicate. The leaves are exactly like those
of the Common Parsley. In Germany,
where this plant is rather extensively culti-
vated, there are two varieties grown, viz.
a late one, which has long slender roots,
and an early one, the roots of which are
shorter and thicker. These varieties do

Fern-leaved Parsley (£ natural size).

Late Hamburgh Parsley
Q- natural size).

not appear to us to be very constant, and the difference in the
weight of their respective produce is rather slight.

The early or thick-rooted variety is grown like the Parsnip.
The seed is sown immediately after winter in well-dug soil, and
the roots may commence to be gathered in September. They
are not affected by frost, and may be left in the ground until it
arrives. This plant is not one of the old-fashioned vegetables,

PARSLEY 483

but, like the Bulbous-rooted Chervil, was taken in hand and intro-
duced into cultivation at a comparatively recent date.

Amongst plants which are not yet in cultivation, and especially
amongst the biennial Umbelliferous plants, it might be possible to
bring some of them to produce fleshy roots of sufficient size to form
useful vegetables. The
result of one experiment
which was undertaken by
us for -a purely scientific
purpose confirms this
opinion. The Beaked
Parsley (AntJiriscus sylves-
trisy L.), a wild plant of
our woods, at the end of
ten years' repeated sowings
and methodical selection,
produced in some sowings
a proportion of one-half

or more of simple, clean- Early Hamburgh Parsley (i natural size).

skinned, fusiform roots, as
regular in shape as the best roots of the Hamburgh Parsley. Now,
in the wild state the root of this plant is as forked and divided as
that of the Celery. The progress made, therefore, was considerable,
and it is to be observed that the plants thus improved represented
only the fifth generation from the wild plant, as the Anthriscust
being a biennial, does not seed until the second year.

PARSNIPS

Pastinaca sativa, L. Umbelliferce.

French, Panais. German. Pastinake. Flemish and Dutch, Pastenaak. Danish,
Pastinak. Italian, Pastinaca. Spanish, Chirivia. Portuguese, Pastinaga.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — Root a very long tap, white,
swollen, and fleshy ; radical leaves divided, as far as the midrib,
into irregular toothed segments ; leaf-stalks overlapping, and often
violet-coloured at the base ; stem hollow, furrowed, branching,
bearing at the extremity broad umbels of green flowers, succeeded
by flat, almost circular seeds, which are winged at the margin,
light brown, and marked with five raised lines or ridges. The
germinating power of the seeds lasts for two years.

CULTURE. — Parsnips are grown in the same manner as
Carrots, only they may be sown earlier in the year — about the
end of February or early in March. The seed cannot always
be depended on for germinating, and, in dry climates often

484

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

fails to do so, from the want of atmospheric moisture. Being a
very hardy plant, the crop may be left in the ground until late
in autumn, or even all through the winter, and taken up as the
roots are required.

SOIL. — Although the Parsnip will
grow in almost any kind of soil, it
succeeds best in land that is neither
over-light and sandy on the one
hand, nor too heavy and adhesive
on the other. The form of the root,
penetrating as it does for a consider-
able distance straight down, at once
shows the necessity for a sufficient
depth of soil to admit of its extend-
ing; consequently the ground should
be well and deeply dug, so as to
readily allow its descent whilst the
root is young and delicate. The
soil should be moderately rich for
Parsnips to grow to a large size,
in which condition they are quite
different, both in flavour and texture,
from the stunted, starved produc-
tions resulting from poor hungry
land and negligent cultivation. But
although the Parsnip likes to be well
nourished, it is not advisable to grow
it in land that has immediately be-
fore received a heavy dressing of
manure, as the roots are then liable
to be cankered or affected with grub.
It is best to grow it after some other
crop that has been well manured, such
as Onions, Cauliflowers, or Lettuce,
trenching or , deeply digging the
ground over in the autumn, and
leaving it as rough as possible on
the surface. Should the soil not be
suitable for the crop on account of
its poverty, some manure ought to
be added in the autumn, which will
be much better than adding it at
the time of sowing, mixing it regu-
larly with the soil as the work
proceeds.

SOWING AND THINNING. — About
the middle or latter end of March,
according as the locality may be
early or late, as soon as the land is

sufficiently dry, let it be well forked,
reducing all the hard lumps that
exist — not merely making it smooth
on the surface, but quite as deep as
the fork or spade goes. This is
necessary for most plants, but par-
ticularly so for Parsnips, or the roots
are liable to grow forked. With this,
as with all other spring-sown crops,
never be guided by a certain date,
even to a week, in the time of sow-
ing, if the state of the land be such
as not to favour the sowing of the
seed ; it is always better to wait
than sow when the soil is too wet —
the effect of which is that it does
not germinate freely, and the land
gets compressed and never works
kindly throughout the whole season.
Sow in drills i in. deep, and from
15 to 1 8 in. apart, according to the
more or less rich condition of the
land. All that is afterwards required
is timely thinning, leaving the plants
10 or 12 in. apart in the rows, and
the careful destruction of weeds by
frequent hoeings throughout the
season.

STORING. — Many take up the
roots towards the end of October
and store them in sand or ashes ;
but they are much better if left in
the ground, as not liable to get
spongy or strong flavoured, which
they sometimes do when stored
under cover. If the ground occu-
pied by the crop is required for
other purposes, the roots may be
dug up and stuck in mounds or
clamps, in the same manner as
Potatoes, or a deep trench may be
dug and the roots placed perpendicu-
larly in it close together, afterwards
covering them over with soil to a
depth of 6 in.

PARSNIPS

485

In the London market-gardens,
Parsnips are always sown as soon
after the middle of February as
possible, provided the ground is
moderately dry and warm, and
crumbles freely with the fork. Pre-
paratory to sowing, the ground is
levelled, and the soil well broken
in the operation, and finished off by
raking the surface smooth with a
wooden rake. Shallow drills are
then drawn for the seeds at about
1 8 or 20 in. apart ; and after being
sown they are covered in by the feet
or the back of a rake, and the whole
is smoothly rolled. Sometimes white
or green Cos Lettuces have been
planted in rows at those distances,
and the Parsnips sown in lines
between them. In either case,
Lettuces are planted — if not first,
they are put in afterwards ; and as
the Parsnips take a long time to
germinate, the Lettuces are removed
before they can injure them. As
soon as the Parsnips are fairly up
and growing, they are thinned out a
little, and when well established,
they are finally thinned to 9 in.
apart. The Lettuces, when mar-

ketable, are tied up and removed
before they can choke or otherwise
injure the Parsnips, which after-
wards soon grow rapidly, no further
care than occasional hoeing being
then bestowed upon them. The
bulk of roots per acre is enormous,
many of the specimens measuring
individually 7 and 8 in. in diameter
at the shoulder, and 20 to 24 in.
in length. The variety grown in
market - gardens is the Hollow-
crown, a capital sort that produces
roots from 4 to 6 in. in diameter at
top, and from 10 to 20 in. in
length ; and the crowns are, as a
rule, buried a little below the surface
soil. Parsnips are not brought to
market much before November,
unless the demand for them is
great and prices high. But from
that time until the middle of
February they are in fine market-
able condition, and, being always
left in the land where they grow,
are lifted as required. Being
thus left undisturbed, they preserve
their flavour much better than
they do when lifted and stored
in pits.

USES. — The roots are boiled, and are often used for flavouring
broth or soup without being eaten. They also form an excellent
food for horses, and are extensively used for that purpose in
districts where Parsnips are easily and successfully grown, as in
Brittany.

Long Parsnip.— This form, which comes the nearest to the Wild
Parsnip, is now very little grown. It is characterised by having a
very long root, often 16 in. in length, deeply sunk in the ground,
and an elongated conical neck.

The Improved Brest Parsnip is a thicker and shorter form of the
old Long Parsnip. It also has a conical neck and a wrinkled skin.
It has the advantage of being productive, while the roots are more
easily pulled than those of the old variety ; however, the following
kind is far superior to it.

Long Smooth Hollow-crown Parsnip. — A fine strain, some-
times confounded with the Half-long Hollow-crown, or Student,
Parsnip, but quite distinct from it, requiring a deeper soil and being

486

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

also more productive. The full-grown roots are 15 in. in length,
with a diameter of 6 or 7 in. at the top. The leaves grow out of a
groove surrounded by a raised circular ring on the root. The skin
is much whiter and smoother than that of the Long Parsnip.

Half-long Hollow-crown, or Student, Parsnip. — Root hand-
some, long, thick, very clean skinned, with a fine neck encircled by

Long Parsnip.

Long Smooth Hollow-crown Parsnip.

a grooved depression, from the centre of which the leaves issue, the
root being swollen all round it. The root is generally only about
three or four times as long as broad, and has a smooth white skin,
whereas that of the Common Long Parsnip is wrinkled and
furrowed. It is an excellent and very productive variety. The
leaves also of the Hollow-crown Parsnip are much smaller and
fewer for the size of the root. There is as great a difference
between this variety and the Common Long Parsnip as there is

PARSNIPS

487

between a variety that has been modified and improved by
cultivation and one that is almost wild.

The English variety, Button's Student, is a superior-flavoured
local form of it, and Elcombe's Improved is a first-class variety,
of excellent flavour. Although it is both large enough and hardy
enough to be grown for cattle-feeding, the Hollow-crown Parsnip is

Half-long Hollow-crown, or Student, Parsnip.

Round Parsnip.

essentially a table vegetable, and as such it is chiefly cultivated. It
is not quite so early as the Round Parsnip, but is more productive.
Round Parsnip. — Root top-shaped, broader than long, often
5 or 6 in. across and 3 or 4 in. in depth. The leaves of this variety
are fewer and slighter than those of the Long Parsnips ; the root
also swells much sooner. It is the best kind for kitchen-garden
culture.

PATIENCE DOCK, or HERB PATIENCE

Rumex Fatten tia, L. Polygonacece.

French^ Oseille epinard. German, Englischer Spinat. Flemish, Blijvende spinazie.
Danish, Engelsk Spinat. Italian, Lapazio. Spanish, Romaza. Portuguese, Laba9a.

Native of Southern Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves slender, flat,
oval-lanceolate, pointed, narrowed abruptly into the leaf-stalk, which
is long and channelled on the upper surface ; stem 4 to 6J ft. high,
with ascending branches ; flowers in thick clusters, forming a rather
close branching panicle at the top of the stem ; seed triangular,
pale brown, much larger than that of the Common Sorrel. Its

488 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

germinating power lasts for four years. This species is not so
acid as the other kinds of Sorrel ; it is exceedingly productive,

Patience Dock, or Garden Patience.

and yields a supply of leaves immediately after winter, ten or twelve
days, at least, before any other kind. It is grown exactly like the
Common Sorrel.

PEAS
Pisum sativuniy D.C. Leguminosce.

French^ Pois. German, Erbse. Flemish and Dutch, Erwt. Danish, Havecert.
Italian^ Pisello. Spanish, Guisante. PorluguesS, Ervilha.

The Pea is an 'annual plant, of uncertain origin, but probably
a native of Central Europe or the mountainous region of Western
Asia, as it is hardy enough to withstand the winter generally in the
climate of Paris. The cultivated Pea has slender hollow stems
which require some support to enable them to grow erect. The
leaves are compound, pinnate without an odd one, the leaf-stalk
terminating in several tendrils which take the place of the odd
leaflet, and enable the plant to climb by attaching themselves to
any object within their reach. The base of the leaf-stalk is
surrounded by a very broad clasping stipule, which is larger than
any of the leaflets. The flowers are produced in the axils of the
leaves, commencing almost regularly at a certain height from the
ground in each variety, either in pairs, or often solitary, and very
rarely three together, at each. joint of the stem. The market-

PEAS 489

gardeners about Paris give the name of " mailles " to the flower-
bearing joints of the Pea-stem, and when they want to describe a
variety as one-flowered or two-flowered, they say that it "has one or
two flowers to the ' maille! " The flowers are sometimes white,
and sometimes violet-coloured, with the wings and keel of a darker
shade than the standard. The varieties which have coloured
flowers may be distinguished long before they come into bloom, by
having a small reddish circle around the stem where it is clasped
by the stipules.

The seeds of the violet-flowered Peas are always more or less
tinged or spotted with brown. When boiled, they turn to an
unattractive grayish colour, and have a rather strong rough flavour,
in consequence of which they are not grown for shelling ; only the
edible-podded sorts are grown for table use. Varieties of Gray Peas
which have tough leathery pods are only grown for feeding cattle.

Most of the varieties which are grown for table use have white
flowers, and the seed also is white or green when ripe. The size
and weight of the seed vary too much in the different varieties to
permit us to treat of them here in a general manner, but we shall
mention these matters in detail in the description of each variety.
We shall only observe that the germinating power of the seed lasts
good for three ;years, after which it speedily declines, although
it is not unusual to find some seeds germinating well after seven
or eight years. Wrinkled Peas usually do not germinate so well
as the Smooth-skinned, or round, Peas, nor does their germinating
power last so long.

Among the very numerous varieties of Peas, a distinction is
made between those of which only the seeds, whether green or
dried, are eaten, and which are termed Shelling Peas, and those
of which the pods are eaten entire when the seeds are hardly
formed in them ; these are called Edible-podded, or Sugar, Peas.

Among the varieties of Shelling Peas, a distinction is made
between the Smooth or Round-seeded and the Wrinkled kinds, the
latter of which are now nearly as numerous as the others. And
lastly, both the Edible-podded and the Shelling Peas are divided
into the three classes of Tall, Half-dwarf, and Dwarf Peas (Pots a
Rames, P. Demi-Nains, and P. Nains). All these differences, without
taking into account the green or white colour of the seeds, have
caused the cultivated varieties of Peas to be grouped into classes or
sub-divisions, under which we shall describe each kind in succession.

CULTURE. *-The cultivation of Peas presents no great difficulty,
and in the vicinity of Paris and other large towns it is carried on
in the open fields on a large scale, and usually very profitably.
The soil in which they are grown should be, as far as possible, well
drained, rich, and of a medium consistence. The seed is sown in
drills, from the middle of November to March. The Early Frame

* See also p. 765.

490 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Pea (Pois Michaux) is the kind most used about Paris for sowing
in autumn, on which account it has obtained the name of
St. Catherine's Pea. These November sowings might also be very
advantageously made in kitchen-gardens, in which case the seed
should be sown in a border at the bottom of a wall with a south
aspect. It is exceedingly early, very dwarf, takes up very little
room, and there is no need to bend down its stems with laths or
cross-bars, as was formerly done when, before its introduction, tall
or half-dwarf varieties were grown in frames.

Successional sowings in the open air should be made all through
the spring in order to ensure a continuous supply through the
summer. After the early varieties, the next sowings consist of tall
kinds, which are later, more productive, and less liable to suffer
from mildew during hot weather. The Clamart Pea and the tall
varieties of Wrinkled Peas are particularly good kinds for late
sowings, the crop from which comes in at the end of summer or
early in autumn.

In kitchen-gardens, tall Peas are staked with branches of trees,
chestnut-loppings being mostly used for this purpose in the vicinity
of Paris ; but when grown in the open fields, they are seldom
staked, on account of the cost of labour which the operation would
involve. In the absence of stakes, the stems of the Peas are
pinched off just above the fifth or sixth flower, after which they
grow sufficiently stiff and firm to support themselves. This
treatment, however, which answers very well for varieties of
moderate height, such as the Michaux Peas, does not suit the tall
kinds, such as the Tall Wrinkled Peas, and these, accordingly, are
not employed for field culture.

When Peas are once well up and staked (if they require it), they
need no further attention except occasional watering in dry weather.
Transplanting is only practised with very early Peas, which are
raised in pots in a plant-house or under frames, to be planted out
as soon as winter is over, and its advantages are not quite certain.

With every suitable appliance the in about the end of May, and green
Pea season may extend from the Peas are common enough in June,
beginning of July till the end of but July is the month for excellent
October, and I have, in exceptional Marrow Peas. In August and Sep-
seasons, gathered Peas as late as tember, unless the land is good and
November loth. But those Peas the treatment very liberal and first-
gathered early in May are grown rate in every respect, the Peas are
under glass, a nd the very late very likely to fall away, and if they
Peas are, of co urse, mainly depen- do not cease to bear, the pods lose
dent upon the season. The best their fresh green colour, and the peas
months for Peas are June and July. in the pods are infested with
In warm situations the produce of maggots, and if mildew makes its
the early south border begins to turn appearance the chapter of ills is

PEAS

491

complete. Most of these evils may be
successfully combated, as I shall show
presently. But we will begin with

THE FIRST-EARLY PEAS.*-These,
where glass can be had sufficient for
our needs, will comprise several small
supplies in pots of some approved
dwarf kind, which should be sown
in 8 in. pots in November, and be
brought on steadily in a pit close
to the glass with just the smallest
amount of artificial warmth, as Peas
do not force well in heat ; and
therefore it will not do to be impa-
tient. A steady, regular growth, in
a very light position, with a tem-
perature never exceeding 45° to 50°
at night, will be best. Ventilation
must be given at every suitable
opportunity. The first sowing in
the open air may take place any time
from the beginning of November till
March, and the probabilities are that
if -the same kind of Peas be planted
at both these extreme limits of time,
there would not be more than ten
days' difference in the time of gather-
ing ! But even then the week or ten
days gained is thought much of. In
cold, wet districts it is as well not to
sow till after Christmas, as in such
situations the early sown crops are
not unfrequently cut off by cold
winds. Very often the first early
Peas are raised under glass, and
when hardened planted out early in
March. The seeds of a white
round early Pea, such as Sangster's
No. i, are sown in pots or troughs,
or on sods of turf, and placed in
heat, where they soon germinate,
when they are hardened off and
planted on a warm south border
the first week in March. A ridge of
earth is drawn up on each side as a
shelter, and a few evergreen boughs
are added as a further protection.

Mr. Muir advises sowing early
Peas in cold frames, and not in
warmer houses or pits : — " I like a

frame about 2 ft. deep better than
any other structure in which to raise
early Peas. Fill some hundreds of
small 3 in. pots half full of soil,
then put in ten or a dozen seeds,
finish off with more soil, and place
them in a frame covered with a good
sash ; they will soon germinate and
make fine, sturdy, dark green-leaved
plants, which may be planted out
almost at any time without receiving
the slightest check. If a batch were
placed in a cold frame and another
in a warm house at the same time,
by April the frame ones would be
by far the best as regards robustness
and fertility. There is no better
place than a cold frame in which to
raise early Peas, and I would advise
everybody, especially amateurs, to
try Pea-growing in this way. No
expense is incurred in getting them
up or anxiety in getting them put
out and hardened off, as by judicious
air-giving on fine days they may be
grown from the first in a most natural
way, and induced to pod some weeks
'earlier than any grown wholly in
the open ground." The second-early
Peas may be sown at the same time
as the early kinds, when these are
not sown before the end of February.
SUCCESSION. — To keep up a
regular succession, there should be
frequent sowings ; taking account of
and giving due weight to the fact
that all Peas sown during the months
of January, February, and the first
half of March will not vary more
than a week or ten days at the time
of turning in. There will not be
much use in making successional
sowings during these months. As
a matter of fact, I have often sown
at intervals of a fortnight or so in
order to test the matter, and I have
always found that to obtain a suc-
cession from first sowing the best
plan is to sow at least three or four
distinct sorts at the same time>

* See also p. 765.

492

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

including an early kind, a mid-season
one, and a late variety. After April
comes in sow the succeeding crop as
the preceding one is just through
the ground. The following dates
may be taken as approximately cor-
rect. They are founded upon a
good deal of experience and careful
note-taking ; and, making due allow-
ance for the effect of latitude upon
climate, and the variations of soil
and seasons, may be safely acted
upon. Early white round Peas,
sown before Christmas, or not later
than the first week in January, should
be fit to gather the last week in
May. Those of a second-early type,
sown from the end of January
to the end of February, should
be fit to gather from June roth
to 2oth ; Huntingdonian and Tele-
phone, sown from February 2oth to
March loth, should be fit for use
from June 2oth to the middle of
July, or later. Marrow Peas, such
as Veitch's Perfection and Ne Plus
Ultra, sown from middle to end of
March, should be ready about the
middle of July and onwards. The
tall Marrows, sown first and third
week in April and first and third
week in May, should produce a
supply from the middle of July till
the close of the Pea season. But
most people sow second-earlies once
or twice in June, and I have had
the late Marrows do well sown as
late as the middle of June. As to
the manner of planting :

THE LATE MARROW PEAS.* -The
crop is so important that every
expedient should be adopted which
can in any way enable it to pass
through its difficulties without much
suffering. Men may be seen labour-
ing heavily with watering-pots in a
dry, hot time, when less than half
the time and labour in preparatory
work at the right season would
have given more satisfactory results.

* See also p. 766.

Mark out the sites in January or
February, open a trench, and fill
in with a manurial compost — Peas
dislike rank manure — of the usual
decaying matters which accumulate
about a garden, mixed with a pro-
portion of manure from the stables
or pigsty, with a little soot, etc. ;
blend the whole together and work
into the trench, where the Peas will
by-and-by be planted. When this
is done early in the season, the
added compost has become mellow
and in a fit condition for the roots
of the plants to work among at once.
As much of the soil taken out of
the trench may be thrown back and
worked up with the compost as will
fill the trench to the original level.
The bottom of the trench will also
be stirred up and incorporated. All
the stations required for the late
Peas should be got ready at the
same time, and a stump driven
down at the end of each row, so
that when one wants to put in a
row of Peas all he has to do is to
place a line along the line of stumps,
draw a drill about 3 in. deep, and
plant the Peas.

SOWING AND GATHERING.t-The

large Marrow Peas should be allowed
room to branch out, not only below
the surface, as the preparation of
the site suggested above will pro-
vide for, but also above the ground,
as must be provided for by thin
planting. From 2 to 3 in. apart
all over the drill will not be too
much space to allow : and this will
necessitate the careful distribution
of the seeds individually by hand.
In dry weather the drills should be
soaked with water, and then covered
with dry soil drawn from the drills.
If mice are likely to be troublesome,
dress the seeds with red lead, or else
keep traps set in the neighbourhood
of the Pea row. To do the late Peas
justice the rows should be isolated,
+ See also p. 767.

PEAS

493

with other dwarf crops between.
Mulching with manure is a valuable
expedient, and, in connection with a
good preparation of the land at this
season, should render watering, even
in the driest weather, unnecessary.
The mulch, which should consist of
half-decayed stable manure, should
be spread on both sides of the rows
of Peas 1 8 in. or so wide and 3 or
4 in. thick. Gathering should be
done carefully, and as soon as they
are fit for use ; and in many cases
a second crop of young shoots and
blossoms will put forth, and a second
crop of Peas, which will be very
useful, will be produced.

TALL AND DWARF PEAS.* -Dwarf
Peas are very useful where sticks or
supports cannot easily be obtained ;
but where sticks do not cost much,
for the main crop tall Peas are best,
as they are more prolific. In the case
of all Peas requiring support — and,
if possible, all Peas, even those of
dwarf habit, should be supported —
the sticks should be placed to the
rows early, and the tops of the sticks
should be levelled with the shears,
and the pieces cut off be used be-
tween the large sticks at the base,
to prevent the plants straggling
through, and to give them an up-
ward tendency.

Nearly all market-gardeners near
London grow Peas largely; and
although French Peas are sent to
market early in May, and sold at
cheaper rates than English growers
could afford to produce them, prefer-
ence is always given to home-grown
Peas, for which there is always a
good demand until about September.
Until the end of October, however,
fine examples of the Ne Plus Ultra
type may be obtained ready shelled
in the market, the produce in many
instances of the Surrey fields, Bed-
fordshire, Essex, and adjoining coun-
ties, from whence come the greater

bulk of both early and mid-season
Peas to Covent Garden. In making
early sowings it is a practice with
market-gardeners to choose a fine
day "to break down the ridges
(the ground having been previously
manured and cast into ridges),
measure off the lines and draw drills
in the forenoon, and to leave them
open till the afternoon, so that the
soil in them may dry a little, and
become thereby warmer ; then to
sow the seeds and cover all up
before the evening. The drills vary
from 2 to 3 1 ft. apart, according to
the vigour of the sorts which are
to be sown. In the close lines,
Lettuces or Spinach are used as
inter-crops, but in the more distant
ones Cauliflower is the crop usually
planted. In many instances, the
first sowing of Peas is made in
December on a warm border ; but,
considering that they must be sown
a little deeper than in January, and
the risks to which the seeds are
liable from mice, birds, insects, and
damp, it is a much-disputed point
among good growers whether the
December sowing has any advantage
over that made in January, many
contending that the produce of the
latter is quite as early as that of the
former, and the crop less subject
to risks. Different growers have a
preference for different kinds; but
the early dwarf kinds are universally
the most desired, on account of their
quick returns, the small space they
occupy, and because they require
no stakes.

Peas are seldom staked in market-
gardens, the haulm being allowed
to lie on the ground. Gathering is
a matter well attended to, as the
oftener the pods are picked when
full the longer do the plants continue
to bear. Most market-gardeners
save their own seed, and some grow
Peas for seed only; in this case

See also p. 767.

494

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the haulm is frequently shifted from
one side of the row to the other in
order to prevent the pods from rot-
ting, or from being destroyed by
snails, and to expose them to the air

and sun, and thus cause them all to
ripen alike. When ripe, the haulm
is pulled up and dried, and taken
indoors to be cleared of its seed
during wet weather.

USES. — The seeds are eaten boiled, either in the green or the
dried state, and the young pods of the edible-podded kinds are
used in the same way.

SHELLING PEAS

French, Pois a ecosser. German, Schal-Erbsen. Flemish and Dutch, Dop ervvten.

Danish, Skalcerte. Italian, Piselli da sgranare. Spanish, Guisantes para

desgranar. Porttiguese, Ervilhas de grao.

I. Round or Smooth Peas

A. TALL CLIMBING VARIETIES

Tall Round or Smooth White-seeded Peas

First and Best, or Prince Albert, Pea. — Stem slender, 2 to
over 2\ ft. high, commencing to flower at the fifth or sixth joint,
and producing from six to eight tiers of pods ; flowers usually

Prince Albert Pea.

Pods (natural size).

SHELLING PEAS 495

solitary, white, and of medium size ; pods straight, about 2 in. long,
somewhat square at the end, each containing from five to seven
very round peas, which are slightly green or sometimes salmon-
coloured when ripe. A peculiarity oF this variety is that the
flower, which makes its appearance lowest down on the stem, often
withers without expanding, and sometimes, when it does open well,
it is not until after the flower at the joint above it has come out.
This variety is the earliest of all the kinds commonly grown in
France. In England a sub- variety, named Dillistone's Early, is
grown, which is three or four days earlier, but the plant is slenderer
and less productive. The present variety is the best for an early
crop in the open air.

Rural New Yorker Pea. — The American variety known
under the above name comes so very near to the Albert Pea that
it can scarcely be called a distinct variety. It flowers one or two
days later than the Albert, but the pods are ready for use at the
same time.

Lightning Pea. — A very early variety, 30 to 36 in. high, with
rather slender single stem, podding close to the soil like all the
earliest varieties. It resembles somewhat the Prince Albert Pea ;
and bears usually seven or eight tiers of solitary long-stalked
flowers. The pods are \\ to 2j in. long, straight, rounded at the
end, well filled, containing from six to eight round salmon-coloured
peas.

Sangster's No. i, or Improved Early Champion, Pea. —
Probably the offspring of the First and Best, and somewhat larger
and more productive, but not quite so early. It usually comes
into flower two days later. It often produces the pods in pairs,
and they are somewhat longer and broader than those of the
preceding kind. The peas are white and round. This variety is
very liable to degenerate, and it should be very carefully isolated,
when grown for seed purposes, to keep it true. In the vicinity of
Paris it is rather extensively grown for market supply. It is not
so productive as the Early Emperor Pea, but has the advantage of
coming in four or five days earlier.

Daniel O'Rourke Pea. — Stem 2 to 2j ft. high ; leaves some-
what larger, rounder, and lighter coloured than those of Sangster's
No. I ; flowers white, rather large, solitary, commencing to appear
at the sixth joint of the stem ; pods somewhat longer and broader
than those of Sangster's No. I ; peas rather large, becoming a
greenish white or salmon-colour when ripe. This variety is quite
as early as the preceding one, and about equally good. The two
kinds are very closely allied, and are sometimes confused with
each other, although a well-marked difference may be observed by
any one who studies them carefully. The Daniel O'Rourke may
be easily recognised by the stems terminating abruptly above a

496

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

leaf which is nearly as large as the others, instead of having at
the end one or two small-sized leaves, as is usually the case in the
two preceding varieties.

Very Early May Pea. — Resembles Caractacus, and flowers at
the same time ; is a little later and more productive. The pods
are produced in pairs ; and the stems are not above 3 ft. or so in
height. They bear pods very low down, and have often as many
as nine tiers of flowers. The pods are from 2j to 3 in. in length,

Sangster's No. I Pea.

Daniel O'Rcurke Pea.

straight, blunt at the ends, and contain six to eight small
salmon-coloured seeds.

Emerald Gem Pea. — Stem 25 to 30 in. high, long and jointed,
with medium-sized foliage, resembling that of Prince Albert Pea,
but is a little larger, and besides, both in the steins and pods, has
a peculiar glazed vivid green colour, without any of that glaucous,
bluish appearance of the other Peas. The flowers are white, most
often solitary. The pods are straight, with the same glazed look
as the other parts. They contain from six to eight medium-sized
round peas, sometimes slightly wrinkled and of a salmon tinged
white colour when ripe.

SHELLING PEAS

497

In culture and productiveness it is strikingly like the three
preceding varieties ; but owing to the peculiarity of colour above-
mentioned is easily distinguished from all the other Peas.

Early Emperor, or Double-blossomed, Frame Pea (Pots
MichauxdeHollande}.—$te™ something over 3 ft. in average height;
leaves and stipules larger than those of Sangster's No. I, and
noticeably darker and more glaucous green in colour; flowers white,

Early Emperor Pea.

Ruelle Michaux Pea.

medium-sized, almost always in pairs, and commencing to bloom
at about the eighth joint of the stem, which usually carries from six
to eight tiers of them ; pods short, seldom over 2 in. in length, but
very well filled, each containing eight or nine medium-sized nearly
round peas, which become very white as they ripen. This variety
is one of the most suitable for growing in the fields for market
supply. It is early, very productive, and very hardy. In the
neighbourhood of Paris it is not usually staked by those cultivators

32

498 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

who grow it on a large scale. They sow it in drills about 20 in.
apart, and leave the plants to themselves. The tendrils of the
leaves become intertwined, so that a whole drill is like one plant,
and, should it incline to right or left, the stems turn and grow
erect, mutually supporting one another. The flowers soon make
their appearance, when the cultivators pinch the stems above the
fifth or sixth flower. This forwards the growth of the first pods
and increases their size. When stakes are scarce, the same might
be done in kitchen-gardens.

Ruelle Michaux Pea.— Stem usually simple, rather thick, 3 to
4 ft. high. The leaves and stipules are much larger than those of
the preceding kind, and a lighter green. The flowers are very
white, large, and often solitary. They begin to open at the ninth
or tenth joint of the stem, which carries about ten tiers of them.
Pod straight, broad, somewhat blunt at the end, and containing
seven or eight white, round, large peas. This variety requires a
little more attention, when growing, than the preceding one. Its
peas are larger and handsomer, but it is not so early.

Early Frame Pea (Pots Michaux Ordinaire). — At first sight
this variety does not seem to differ much from the Early Emperor.
It might even be described as a sub-variety, which is hardier, a
little earlier, and continues bearing for a longer time. The leaves
are exactly like those of the Early Emperor, save that they are a
little larger ; but the flowers, which are always in pairs, do not
commence to open before the tenth joint, and the stem carries
twelve tiers of them. Pods straight, rather narrow and small, but
very well filled ; peas very round, white, slightly salmon colour,
and of medium size. This variety is almost always branched ; that
is, it produces shoots from the axils of the leaves immediately
under the first flowers, which soon flower themselves. These
branches or secondary stems grow particularly strong when, from
any cause, the main stem above them has been either wholly or
partially destroyed, but they always produce fewer pods than the
main stem.

Some years ago a variety was much grown, and still exists
in certain localities, under the name of White Branching Pea.
This comes very near the Early Frame Pea, but is especially
remarkable for the vigorous growth of its secondary shoots, or
branches, and their abundant and continuous yield of pods. If the
Early Frame Pea, however, is sown rather thinly, and the pods
are gathered as soon as they are fit for use, it will yield almost
as abundantly and as long as the White Branching Pea.

Leopold II. Pea. — Stem usually simple, about 3 ft.' high ;
leaflets and stipules pale green, finely spotted with gray, oval, and
rather elongated ; flowers white, almost always produced in pairs,
and rarely commencing to open before the twelfth joint ; there are

SHELLING PEAS

499

seldom more than six tiers of them on a"stem ; pods long, straight,
pale green, each containing seven or eight white, very round,
medium-sized peas. This variety comes into flower five or six

Early Frame Pea.

Leopold II. Pea.

days after the Early Emperor Pea. A peculiarity of it is the
rapidity with which the pods form and fill. It seldom flowers
longer than a fortnight, and the pods are all gathered in about the
same time, after which the plants may be cleared off and replaced
by something else — a great advantage in market-garden culture.

5oo

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Clamart Pea. — Stem 4 to 5 ft. high, generally branching
above the first pods, which are produced at the tenth or twelfth
joint. The pods are usually in pairs, and are preceded by very
white medium-sized flowers. They are distinguished from the
pods of the ordinary Clamart Pea by being somewhat longer,
paler, and considerably curved. There are, on an average, ten

tiers of them on a stem. They
are very well filled, each containing
from seven to nine peas, which
very soon swell so large as to
touch and mutually flatten one
another on two sides. They retain
this shape when ripe, at which
time they become almost wrinkled,
and white with a faint green tinge.
This variety comes in almost ,at
the same time as the Early Frame
Pea, and continues to yield nearly
as long. The two kinds are very
easily distinguished from each
other by the difference in the shape
of the pods and in the shape and
colour of the peas.

Etampes Wonder Pea. — Stem
usually single, long jointed ; leaves
inclined to be broad, and very
light green ; stipules exceedingly
large and broad. In general ap-
pearance it resembles the Laxton's
Supreme Pea, but is not quite so
tall. Flowers generally in pairs,
commencing to bloom at the tenth
joint of the stem, large, white,
often having the standard scalloped
or toothed on the margin. The
pods grow very rapidly, and in a
few days become long, broad, and
slightly curved towards the end.
They swell considerably before the
peas are fully grown, in which respect the plant very much
resembles Laxton's Supreme ; but the two varieties differ entirely
in the seed or peas, these being large and green in Laxton's
Supreme, while in the fitampes Wonder they are medium-sized
and white. The pods of the latter variety are well filled, each
generally containing from ten to twelve peas, which become very
round and white when ripe. The plant usually carries from seven

Early Clamart Pea.

SHELLING PEAS

501

to twelve tiers of pods. This variety must be classed between
the Leopold II. and the Scimitar Pea, having the pod of the
Scimitar and the size and earliness of the Leopold II. It has
the peculiarity of maturing
all its pods at about the
same time.

White Scimitar Pea
(Pots cfAuvergne). — Stem
almost always branching,
and averaging about 4 ft.
in height ; leaflets and
stipules oval, rather pointed,
light green, sometimes tinged
with yellow ; flowers almost
always in pairs, white,
medium-sized, commencing
to bloom at about the twelfth
joint of the stem ; pods
long and slender, at first
slightly curved backwards,
then becoming straight, and
finally curved forwards in
the shape of a pruning-
knife. The concave curved
line, corresponding to the
edge of the knife, is that
along which the peas are
attached inside the pod.
This is the front part of
the pod. The opposite or
convex part is the " back "
of the pod, and the peas
are never attached to the
pod on that side. The pod
of the White Scimitar Pea
is very well filled, and con-
tains from nine to eleven,
and sometimes twelve,
medium-sized peas, which
are remarkably round,
rarely flattened, and, when
ripe, are white, slightly

tinged with salmon colour. Etampes Wonder Pea.

This variety comes into flower from eight to ten days later
than the Early Emperor, and yields a very constant supply
of pods for more than a month. It is a very good kind,

502

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

remarkable for the fine quality of the peas, and grows well in
ordinary soil.

Long-podded Improved Scimitar Pea. — An improved form of
the White Scimitar, ripening mid-season, not above 4 ft. or so in
height, with emerald-green leaves, and stems carrying from five to

White Scimitar Pea (natural size).

Sabre Pea.

seven tiers of long-stalked flowers, produced in pairs. Pods about
3j in. long, pointed and curved at the end, well filled, containing
seven or eight small round salmon-coloured peas.

Sabre Pea. — Stem stout, very often branching, from about
4 to 4j ft. high ; leaflets and stipules very large, rather round,

SHELLING PEAS

503

somewhat blunt, glaucous and gray-green ; flowers both solitary
and in pairs, large, white, usually only commencing to bloom at
the twelfth or fourteenth joint of the stem. The plant comes
into flower at the same time as the White Scimitar. Pods broad,
pale green, curved back-
wards in an opposite
direction to that of the
White Scimitar Pea — that
is, having the peas attached
along the inside of the
convex line formed by the
front of the pod, the back
of the pod in this variety
being concave. This Pea
does not continue bearing
so long as the White
Scimitar, its period being
about three weeks. The
stem carries ten or more
tiers of pods. The peas
are white, large, and some-
what oblong in shape.
This variety was some
years ago in great request
in the Central Market at
Paris, but it does not
appear to be so much in
favour there at the present
day.

Marly Pea.— A vigor-
ous, often branching plant,
and in its general appear-
ance rather like the Ruelle
Michaux Pea, but almost
always producing the
flowers in pairs, and only
commencing to bloom at
about the twelfth joint of
the stem. Pods straight,
about 3 in. long, each con-
taining seven or eight large
round white peas, of a slightly oblong shape, rather like those of
the preceding variety. The variety is moderately productive and
early, but is chiefly distinguished for the large size of the peas, as
are also several other varieties which are closely allied to it, but are
seldom found in cultivation at the present day. Of these varieties

Giant Saumur Pea.

504

THE -VEGETABLE GARDEN

we may mention the following: — Gouvigny Pea. — The pods of
this variety are longer and narrower than those of the Marly Pea.
Lady's-finger Pea. — In this variety the outside of the pods is
swollen over each of the peas. Lastly, the Square White Pea. —

The peas in this variety,
being closely pressed to-
gether in the pod, are
usually flattened on two
sides, like those of the
Clamart Pea. In their
habit of growth the three
varieties just mentioned
very much resemble the
Marly Pea. They have
thick stout stems and very
large leaves and stipules.
They come in about the
same time as the White
Scimitar — that is, half-
late. Of the four kinds
mentioned in this article,
the Marly Pea is the
earliest.

Giant Saumur Pea. —
A tall late variety, 5 .or
6 ft. in height, resembling
somewhat the Giant
Marrow Pea. The stems
are stout, close-jointed,
and bear seven or eight
tiers of flowers produced
in pairs. The pods are 3
to 4 in. long, curved, and
contain from six to nine
very large, square, salmon-
coloured or milky white
seeds. Ripens at about
the same time as the Late
Clamart Pea.

i-ate Clamart Pea (natural size). ^^ Clamart pea<_

Stem tall, tufty, branching, 5 to 6 ft. high ; leaves medium-sized,
light green, not so glaucous as those of most other varieties ;
flowers white, medium-sized, almost always in pairs ; pods straight,
or very slightly curved, of uniform width, and abruptly narrowed
at both ends. The stem is single up to the fourteenth or fifteenth
joint, after which it divides into two or three, rarely four, branches.

SHELLING PEAS

505

The flowers first appear
at about the sixteenth or
eighteenth joint. The pods
are seldom more than about
2 in. in length; they are
generally well filled, and
the peas are pressed so
closely together that they
are quite flat on two sides.
They retain this shape when
ripe, and are then white
or slightly greenish. There
are usually from five to
eight peas in each pod.
The main stem carries from
seven to nine tiers of pods,
and the branches have
seldom more than four tiers.
Giant Marrow, or
Royal Victoria, Pea.— A
very tall variety, 5 to 6J ft.
high. Stems thick and
stout; leaves large, nume-
rous, light green ; flowers
white, large, almost always
in pairs; pods usually com-
mencing to appear at about
the fifteenth joint of the
stem, rather large, broad,
square at the end, and very
slightly curved. The stem
carries about ten tiers of
pods, and does not usually
branch. Each pod contains
from five to seven peas.
These are somewhat elon-
gated in shape, white, and,
when ripe, are flattened or
more or less hollowed, as
if they had a tendency
towards the shape of the
Wrinkled Peas. This variety
is one of the latest. It
comes into flower at the
same time as the Late
Clamart Pea.

Victoria Marrow Pea.

5o6

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

In England the name of Marrow Peas is applied to all the
varieties which have very large tender Peas, including the
Wrinkled as well as the Smooth or Round-seeded kinds.

Tall Round or Smooth Green-seeded Peas.

Express Pea. — Stems slender, 23 to about 28 in. in height,
with light, rounded, glaucous green foliage, and white, solitary

flowers appearing usually
from the fifth or sixth joint.
The pods are straight,
square at the ends, and
contain from five to eight
small, round peas of an
intense blue-green colour
when ripe. The Express
Pea closely resembles the
Prince Albert Pea, except
that the colour is more
glaucous and rather darker,
and the seed decidedly
more glaucous. It is also
three or four days later,
and more productive.
Though of recent introduc-
tion, it is now a favourite
with growers.

Blue Alaska Pea.— A
very early Pea, about 2\ ft.
high, rather taller and
lighter green than Express,
but otherwise differing little
from it. The stems carry
eight tiers of long-stalked
solitary flowers. The pods
are 2| to 3^ in. long,
straight, rather swollen,
blunt at the ends, and
contain usually six green,
round, or slightly flattened
peas, a little larger and
more coloured than those of Express Pea. This variety is better
suited for dry, warm climates than Express.

William the First Pea.— A rather slender climbing Pea,
with slight yellow-green leaves. Stems thin, rather long jointed,
almost always single, commencing to flower at the seventh or

SHELLING PEAS

507

eighth joint, and carrying from seven to ten tiers of pods. Pods
mostly solitary, dark green, from 2 to nearly 3 in. long, narrow,
curved like a pruning-knife, generally very well filled, and borne
on very long stalks. Each pod contains from seven to ten peas,
of a deep green, very closely pressed against one another, and

flattened on two sides when
ripe. This variety is not so
early as Prince Albert, but it is
earlier than the Early Emperor,
and continues bearing for a

Early William Pea.

Pods (natural size).

remarkably long time. Its fresh green peas are of a fine colour
and excellent flavour. In England this variety is one of the most
highly esteemed of early Peas.

Early William Pea. — A variety which requires to be staked,
although scarcely 3 ft. in height. The pods are very large, and
shortly curved like a pruning-knife. The peas are fairly large,
angular rather than wrinkled, and dull olive-green. This variety

508

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

has been raised by Mr. Laxton, and is one of the best ; it is very
productive, and as early as Prince Albert, Express, The Shah, etc.

Green Hundred-for-One Pea. — A vigorous variety, from 3 to
4 ft. in height, with very glaucous leaves and stems, which con-
tinue green when dry. The flowers are in pairs, and in seven to

nine tiers. The pods are $J
to 4j in. long, very glaucous,
slightly curved, and contain
from six to eight medium-
sized, light, ashy green peas.
It is a half-late and ex-
tremely productive variety,
a plant often producing
twenty pods and over, con-
taining as many as eight
seeds in each pod.

Laxton's Supreme Pea.
— This variety was one of
the first raised by Mr.
Laxton, and it remains one
of the best. It is hardy,
rather productive, and re-
markable for the handsome
appearance of the pods and
peas. It quickly came into
favour with the cultivators
around Paris soon after its
introduction in 1869. Stem
about 4^ ft. high, usually
simple and glaucous ; leaflets
and stipules rather large, and
pale yellow-green ; flowers
generally solitary, green at
first, then white, and com-
mencing to bloom at about
the twelfth joint of the stem,
which usually carries from
six to eight tiers of them ;
pods from about 3 to nearly

J .^ long>dark green, straight,

with a short and abruptly curved point ; peas large, somewhat
oblong in shape, sometimes misshapen from the great pressure
which they undergo in the pods, and remaining of a dark green
colour after they are ripe. This variety comes into flower a day
or two earlier than the White Scimitar Pea, but does not continue
bearing so long, usually not longer than three weeks. Peculiar to

Laxton's Supreme Pea.

SHELLING PEAS

509

this Pea is the manner in which the pods swell, long before the
peas attain any size, and, while these are very small, becoming
inflated to such an extent that the width is greater than the depth.
Three-podded Pea.— A late variety, with stout stems, about
4 ft. in height bearing five or six tiers of flowers, mostly produced in

Tall Three-podded Pea.

Tall Squaie Mammoth, or Normandy, Pea.

bunches of three at the tops of the stalks and set freely; the pedicels
often provided with a foliaceous and toothed bractea. The pods are
small, thin, 2j to 3^ in. long, pointed, much curved at the end, well
filled with eight or nine small, round, smooth, bluish green peas.

Tall Square Mammoth, or Normandy, Pea.— Stems thick,
very stout, almost always branching, from 5 to, 6J ft. high ; leaves

5io

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

large, rather closely set, and of a dark, somewhat glaucous, green ;
flowers largish, always in pairs, of a greenish white colour ; pods
very broad, between 2 and 3 in. long, very slightly curved, and
narrowed from the middle to both ends. They do not commence
to appear lower than at about the eighteenth to twentieth joint of
the stem. Each branch seldom carries more than five or six tiers
of pods, but, as the plant usually has three or four branches, the
produce is considerable. Each pod generally contains from four to
six peas, which are large, very much flattened at the sides, some-
what wrinkled, and of a grayish green colour when ripe.

B. HALF-DWARF VARIETIES
Smooth or Round White-seeded Peas

Bishop's Early Dwarf Pea (Pois Nain Hdtif, Pots LJveque). —
A dwarf, yet not very dwarf, variety, 20 in. to 2 ft. high. Stem

rather thick-set, thin at the
base, and somewhat zigzag in
growth ; leaves medium-sized,
and rather dark green ; stipules
rather small than large, and
very much toothed at the base ;
flowers white, medium-sized,
sometimes solitary and some-
times in pairs, commencing
to open at about the tenth
or eleventh joint of the stem ;
pods comparatively large and
broad, from about 2 to over
3 in. long, slightly curved, each
usually containing from five
to seven peas, which are white,
sometimes green, large, and
slightly square in shape. The
stem usually carries seven or
eight tiers of pods, and

occasionally has one or two

Bishop's Early Dwarf Pea. Pod (natural size), branches which are often

sterile.

Bishop's Long-pod Pea. — This variety seldom grows higher
than from 20 in. to 2 ft., the stem having one or two branches
immediately below the twelfth joint, at which place the flowers
usually commence to appear. Flowers white, medium-sized, open-
ing not very freely, and as often solitary as in pairs ; pods rather
Jong — 3 in. or more — straight, somewhat pointed, each containing

SHELLING PEAS

from six to eight peas, which are nearly round, pale green, becoming
white, quite round, and of medium size when ripe. This variety is
about as early as the preceding one, from which it differs but little.
Both are very good kinds for a main crop in the open air.

Dwarf Dutch Pea (Pois nain ordinaire}. — A dwarf, compact-
growing kind, seldom exceeding from 20 in. to 2 ft. in height
Stems rather slender, zigzag in growth, with numerous closely set
joints, and usually branching; leaves numerous, small, stiff, and

slightly twisted ; flowers almost
always in pairs, and commencing
to open at about the twelfth joint
of the stem ; pods seldom more
than 2 in. long, slender, square

Bishop's Long-pod Pea.

Dwarf Dutch Pea.

at the end, very slightly curved, each containing from six to
eight peas, which are very closely pressed against one another,
and are consequently flattened on two sides when ripe. They
are remarkably small, somewhat angular in shape, and of a slightly
green tint. The main stem carries about eight tiers of pods, and
the branches have from two to four tiers each. This variety has
a remarkably compact appearance when growing, and the very
numerous white flowers are effectively relieved by the very green
and tufted foliage.

512

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Dwarf Clamart Pea.— A nearly dwarf variety, scarcely
over 2 ft. or as much as 2\ ft. in height, and erect enough to
dispense with stakes. The pods are numerous, in pairs, and of
medium size, slightly curved, and well filled. The peas are square,
large, tender, and sugary. It is half-early, coming in immediately
after the early sorts ; it is a good Pea for field culture.

Smooth or Round Green-seeded Peas

Imperial Dwarf Blue Pea.— -A half-dwarf kind, from 2 to 2j ft.
high. Stem stout, rather thick-set, and of zigzag growth, especially

at the base ; leaves rather slender, with
oval-pointed leaflets, of light green colour,
entirely free from any glaucous tint or
grayish markings; flowers usually in pairs,
almost green, commencing to bloom at
about the twelfth joint of the stem, and
above one or two branches which are
seldom of any great size ; pods about
2 in. long, rather narrow, well filled, faintly
curved like a pruning-knife blade, each
containing six or seven peas, which, when
ripe, are large and closely pressed against
one another. They continue quite green,
and are generally very full, but slightly
square or angular. The main stem carries
from six to eight tiers of pods, and the
branches rarely have more than three
tiers. This variety may be infallibly
distinguished from all others, when it
comes into bloom, by the peculiar, almost
green, colour of its flowers, which, even
when quite fully expanded, are veined
and tinged with green, like the un-
expanded flowers of all kinds of Peas.
Laxton's Fillbasket Pea.— A half-dwarf kind, 2 \ to 3 ft. high.
Stem rather thick-set, short jointed, often producing two or three
branches which grow nearly as tall as the main stem, and generally
issue from about the tenth or twelfth joint. The first flowers
appear at about the thirteenth or fourteenth joint, and are greenish
white and often solitary. The main stem carries six or seven tiers
of them, and the branches only from three to five tiers. Pods
about 3£ in. long, rather narrow, curved like a pruning-knife blade,
very much pointed at the end, and exceedingly well filled, each
containing from seven to ten peas, which are dark green, large,
square, and, when ripe, a clear, pale green. This variety is easily

Imperial Dwarf Blue Pea.

SHELLING PEAS

513

distinguished by its leaves being a light yellow green, narrow,
slight, and very much waved at the edges, especially those at the
top of the stem.

Gladiator Pea. — A half-dwarf variety, with stems 27 or 28 in.

high, with two or three
branches carrying six or seven
tiers of short-stalked flowers
usually produced in pairs.
The pods are curved, 3 to
4 in. long, and well filled,
with seven or eight round
dark green, fairly large, and

Laxton's Fillbasket Pea.

Dwarf Blue Prussian Pea (natural size).

slightly wrinkled peas. A half-early, productive variety, rather
like Fillbasket

Dwarf Blue Prussian Pea. — A half-dwarf variety, from 2 ft
to 2 ft. 4 in. high, thick-set, and very branching. Leaves rather
large, rounded, and glaucous ; stipules very much blotched with

33

514 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

gray ; stem stout, of zigzag growth, with very close joints, be-
ginning to branch at the fourth or fifth joint, and showing the first
flowers at about the tenth joint ; flowers white, medium-sized,
sometimes solitary, but most usually in pairs ; pods broad, between
2 and 3 in. long, slightly pointed at the end, and seldom very well
filled, each usually containing not more than five or six peas, which
are large, very much flattened, slightly irregular in shape, and of
a pale green, bluish when ripe. The stem generally carries seven
or eight tiers of pods, and the principal branches have four or five
tiers. This is a very hardy and productive variety, but rather late
than early. It is grown on a large scale for the dried peas, which
are usually met with in commerce under the name of Green
Noyon Pea.

Blue Beauty Pea. — Quite dwarf, very branching, not much
over 15 in. in height, and inclined to lie down. The pods are
rather short, broad, with rounded, slightly oblong peas, of a
glaucous almost blue colour when ripe. It is remarkable for the
beauty and size of its peas.

C. DWARF VARIETIES
Smooth or Round White Peas

Early Dwarf Frame Pea. — Stem exceedingly short, seldom
more than from 8 to 10 in. high ; joints very close; leaflets and

stipules rounded, dark green, finely
marbled with a gray tinge ; flowers
white, very small, usually solitary,
commencing to bloom at the seventh
joint, seldom opening fully, and often
not extending outside of the leaves ;
pods about 2 in. long, straight, rather
slender, nearly square at the end, and
very like those of the Prince Albert
Pea, each containing seven or eight

Early Dwarf Frame Pea , . , ,. j

0& natural size). white, round, medium-sized peas.

Though dwarf, it is rather productive,

excellent for frame culture, and only two or three days later than
Sangster's No. i.

Dwarf Very Early Annonay Pea.— Stems very short, the
joints pretty close, less, however, than in the preceding. The
flowers are small, white, and short stalked, making their appearance
at the sixth or seventh joint. The pods and seeds are like those
of the Early Dwarf Frame Pea. It may be grown under glass, but
is well suited for open ground cultivation.

SHELLING PEAS

515

Couturier Dwarf Pea. — Stems short, very branching, with
small gray-green leaves. The flowers are white, usually in pairs,

Couturier Dwarf Pea.

commencing to bloom at the eighth
joint of the stem. The pods are
small, straight, thin, short, but well

filled. The
Peas are
round, and

Very Dwarf Brittany Pea.

regular in p0ds (natural size>

shape;

when ripe quite smooth, and slightly
tinged with salmon colour, like those
of the Scimitar Pea, which they re-
semble, except that they are smaller.
It is midway in earliness between the
two preceding and the Brittany Dwarf.
Very Dwarf Brittany Pea.— A
very dwarf Pea, with slender, rather
dark green leaves. Stems very short
jointed, of zigzag growth, commencing
to flower at about the twelfth joint
The two joints immediately below
generally produce branches which are
often sterile. Flowers in pairs, white,
well opened, but very small ; pods
seldom over 2 in. long, dark green, very
slender, and slightly curved like a
pruning-knife blade, each containing
from five to seven peas, which are

5i6

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

square from pressure and fill the pods completely. The main
stem carries from six to ten tiers of pods, and the branches
seldom have more than two tiers. This variety is about as early
as the Early Frame Pea. The peas, when ripe, are small, squarish,
slightly tinged with salmon colour, and sometimes green.

MacLean's Blue Peter Pea. — A very dwarf variety, but not
so compact in growth as the Early Dwarf Frame Pea. The joints
of the stem are longer, being
about equal in length to the
stipules. Leaves a very dark
glaucous green, those at the end
of the stem being very much
reduced in size, closely crowded
together, and a very dark green ;
flowers rather small and slightly
tinged with green, sometimes
solitary and sometimes in pairs,
and commencing to bloom at
the seventh or eighth joint of
the stem, two or three days later
than the Early Dwarf Frame

MacLean's Blue Peter Pea.

Pods (natural size),

Pea; pods rather broad, a little over 3 in. long, each containing from
five to eight peas, which are somewhat oblong in shape, very large,
and, when ripe, retain their pale green, slightly bluish, tint. Owing
to its dwarf size this variety may be used as an edging like the
Early Dwarf Frame Pea, to which it is superior in productiveness.

Pride of the Market Pea. — A dwarf variety, with thick,
short, pretty close-jointed stems ; the leaves, especially the stipules,
are very large, of almost yellow-green colour. The flowers are a
greenish white, solitary, hidden amongst the foliage, commencing

SHELLING PEAS

517

to show themselves at the eighth or tenth joints. The pods are
solitary, irregular, but large, equalling almost those of the Telephone
Pea in size. The seed is very large, oblong, flattened, often slightly
depressed on one or two sides, but not wrinkled, and in colour a bluish

Pride of the Market Pea.

Purple Podded Pea.

green sometimes tinged with darker green at maturity. When
grown under conditions that are favourable, it is a very fine variety,
but it is better for kitchen-garden than field culture, owing to the
great size of its foliage and the time of its maturity, which makes it
liable to suffer from the heat and drought .of the summer, for
which reason it succeeds better in sheltered gardens.

5i8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Purple-podded Pea. — A curious but not very useful variety, with
dark purple-coloured pods. The seed is large, gray-green, becoming
brown when cooked, which lessens its value for table use. The pods,
when boiled, lose their purple colour, and become almost green, but
they are tough and leathery, and uneatable even before they are
fully grown.

II. Wrinkled Peas

Pois rides

A. TALL CLIMBING VARIETIES
White-seeded Peas

Gradus Pea. — A

fine early Pea with stems
2\ to nearly 3 ft. high,
carrying four or five tiers
of solitary flowers. The
pods are large, straight
or slightly curved, about
4^ in. long, and contain
from five to seven large
wrinkled white or slightly
green Peas. This is the
earliest of all wrinkled
Peas, and is remarkable
for the great size and
fine appearance of its
pods.

Laxton's "The
Shah" Pea.— A climb-
ing Pea with a very
slender stem, which is
almost always single or
with one or two small
branches, and rather long
jointed. Leaves slight,
light green, tinged with
gray ; stipules a little
darker than the leaves,
and distinctly marked
with gray blotches ;
flowers white, medium-
sized, solitary, or rarely
in pairs, and commencing
to bloom at the sixth
or seventh joint of the

Gradus Pea. Stem '• P°ds Very slender

SHELLING PEAS

519

at first, about 2 in. long, quite square at the end, and becoming very

much swollen before ripening, each containing from five to seven

peas, which are very closely pressed together, and consequently

flattened at the sides, and,

when ripe, are square in

shape, very much wrinkled,

and pure white. The stem

usually carries six or seven

tiers of pods. In all its

characteristics of growth,

habit, and foliage, this

variety comes very close

to Sangster's No. I Pea,

but differs from it entirely

in the appearance of the

seeds or peas. It was raised

by Mr. Laxton, about the

year 1875.

Laxton's "The Shah" Pea (natural size).

Telephone Pea.

Carter's Telephone Pea. — A climbing Pea, from about 3 to 4 ft.
high. Leaves very large, pale yellow-green, veined and marbled with
white; stipules quite remarkable for their large size; stem generally
simple, but occasionally with one or two branches, rather long jointed,

520

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

and commencing to flower at about the twelfth joint; flowers
white, rather large, and often solitary ; pods very large and broad,
sometimes 4 in. long, straight, and slightly curved towards the end

like the blade of a pruning-knife,
rather swollen, each containing
from eight to ten very large green
peas, square in shape, and, when
ripe, either perfectly white or more
or less tinged with green. This
variety is a little later than Lax-
ton's Supreme, and a plant seldom
carries more than eight pods.

Colossus Pea. — A tall,
vigorous half-early Pea, nearly
5 ft. in height, with very light
green leaves and branching stems,
bearing five or seven tiers of
flowers, mostly in pairs. The
pods very large, 3 to 4 in. long,
flattened, straight, rounded at the
end, containing eight or ten large,
white or greenish, somewhat flat-
tened and slightly wrinkled peas.
It is remarkable for the beauty
of its pods. In the Paris market
the large-podded Peas have of
late years found more favour, and
the demand for them is steadily
increasing.

Knight's Tall Marrow Pea.
— A tall-growing late variety,
6J ft. or more high. Stems rather
strong, but not very thick, long
jointed, unbranched up to the
twelfth joint, and commencing
to flower at about the sixteenth
joint ; flowers white, very large,
almost always in pairs ; pods long
stalked, large, broad, perceptibly
curved, and from about 2 to over
3 in. long. The main stem carries
from eight to ten tiers of pods,
and the branches from three to
five tiers. It is to be remarked that the joints immediately below
the first flower do not all produce branches, and that the same stem
does not usually produce more than two. Each of the pods contains

Knight's Tall Marrow Pea.

SHELLING PEAS

521

from six to eight large elongated peas, which, when ripe, become
very much wrinkled, almost flat, and generally white or tinged with
green. In this variety one of the two flowers in the pairs is often
accompanied by a small rounded leafy bract at the base.

Tall Wrinkled Large White, or British Queen, Pea.— A very
tall Pea, often over 6 ft. in height, with thick, branching, long-jointed
stems, and leaves and stipules very large, smooth and of a whitish
green faintly tinged with gray-green.' The flowers are white, large, in
pairs. The seed is large, oblong, and white and wrinkled at maturity.
It is a very vigorous, productive variety, producing peas of great size
and quality. Like the Wrinkled Knight Pea, it requires extra long
stakes.

Tall Wrinkled Green-seeded Peas

Laxton's Alpha Pea. — This variety very much resembles Prince

Laxton's Alpha Pea.

Tall Green Wrinkled Marrow Pea..

522

Duke of Albany Pea.

Albert in height,
habit of growth, and
earliness, but is dis-
tinguished from it
by the paler and
yellower tint of the
leaves. The flowers
are generally soli-
tary, but occasion-
ally in pairs, and
begin to open at
the seventh or eighth
joint of the stem.
Pods very long
stalked, rather
pointed, and very
slightly curved,
about 2 in. long,
each containing
from six to eight
peas, which are
small, very much
wrinkled, and re-
maining green when
ripe. A stem carries
from five to seven
tiers of pods. This
Pea is one of the
best known and most
extensively cultiva-
ted of the varieties
raised by Mr. Lax-
ton, whose name we
have had frequent
occasion to mention.
Tall Green
Wrinkled Marrow
Pea. — A very tall,
strong plant, with
thick stems some-
times over 6 ft. in
height, usually in
two branches and
flowering only at the
twelfth joint. The
flowers are white,

SHELLING PEAS

523

large, often solitary. The pods, which are very large, do not
swell much even when nearly fully grown. They contain from six
to nine very large light green peas, which become white and
wrinkled at maturity.

Duke of Albany Pea.— A tall, stout-stemmed Pea, 4^ ft. or
even more in height. The flowers commence to bloom at the
twelfth joint, generally in pairs. The pods are very long, 4 to 6 in.,
smooth, dark green, slightly curved at the end, cylindrical when
fully grown, well filled with ten or eleven very large peas, which
are slightly oblong in shape, and wrinkled when ripe ; of a dark
green colour, but lighter if allowed to mature properly. A very
good and handsome variety, only rivalled by the Telephone as
an exhibition Pea.

B. HALF-DWARF VARIETIES
White Wrinkled Peas

White Eugenie Dwarf Wrinkled Marrow Pea. — A half-
dwarf variety, 2 ft. to 2 ft. 8 in. high. Stem rather slender, almost
always unbranched, commencing to flower extremely low, often at
the fifth joint ; flowers
white, medium-sized,
always solitary towards
the lower part of the
stem, and often in pairs
a little higher up ; pods
rather variable in size,
usually 2 or 3 in. long,
pointed towards the end,
slightly curved like the
blade of a pruning-knife,
and very unequally filled,
those at the lower part
of the stem often con-
taining but one pea, and
seldom more than three
or four, while later pods
will often have seven or
eight. While in the green
or unripe state, the peas
are large, square, and
somewhat flattened at the

sides ; when ripe, they are Whjte ie Dwarf Wrinkled Mam)w
very wrinkled, unequal in
size, and a salmon tinted white. The stem carries from twelve
to fifteen tiers of pods. This would be one of the most

524

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

productive early varieties if the first pods were better filled. It
will bear for six weeks or more if the pods are gathered as
they become fit.

Green Wrinkled Pens

Knight's Dwarf Green Wrinkled Marrow Pea. — This variety
only differs from the White Eugenie Wrinkled Pea in having the
leaves somewhat marbled and undulated, and the peas pale green.

Knight's Dwarf Green Wrinkled Marrow Pea
(natural size).

MacLean's Best of All Pea
(natural size).

It exhibits precisely the same characteristics of growth as the
White Eugenie Pea, and especially the peculiarity of the lower
pods being usually small and badly filled, while those growing from
the middle of the stems are much larger and generally well filled.
It is very difficult to obtain this variety quite pure at the present

SHELLING PEAS

525

time, and among the numerous varieties which resemble it, and
which are often sold for it, there is, perhaps, not one that possesses
the same combination of good qualities, and especially such great
earliness along with such very great and continuous productiveness.

MacLean's Best of All Pea. — This is a half-dwarf kind,
growing about 2j ft. high,
very thick set, and with a
short-jointed stem. Leaves
stiff, medium-sized, and of
very dark glaucous green ;
flowers medium-sized, white,
in pairs ; pods broad, from
3 to nearly 4 in. long,
gradually narrowed at both
ends, and usually not com-
pletely filled ; stems simple
to the eighth or ninth joint,
then producing three or four
branches, and bearing the
first pods at about the twelfth
joint. The main stem carries
from five to seven tiers of
pods, and the branches have
seldom more than two or
three tiers. Each pod con-
tains from three to eight
very large peas, oval in shape,
and, when ripe, very wrinkled,
much flattened, and a pale
gray-green. This is a pro-
ductive, half-late variety, of
good quality.

G. F. Wilson Pea.— A
half-dwarf variety, growing
from 2 to 2\ ft. high. Stem
thick and stout ; leaves
very large, glaucous green,
especially remarkable for the
great size of the stipules and

the absence of gray spots ; Gt R Wilson Pea<

flowers white, rather large,

generally in pairs, but often solitary also, and commencing to open
at about the tenth joint of the stem ; pods from about 2j to over
3 in. long, at first very flat and exceedingly broad, but becoming
narrower as the peas increase in size. The stem carries from six to
eight tiers of pods. They are seldom very well filled, each usually

526

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

containing not more than five or six peas, but these, it is true, are
nearly as large as field-beans ; they are oblong and somewhat flat
in shape, and, when ripe, exceedingly wrinkled, flat, and a pale
green. The thickness and strength of the stalks which bear the
pods are a particularly distinctive characteristic of this variety.

C. DWARF VARIETIES
White-seeded Wrinkled Pea

Chelsea Gem Pea. — A very dwarf, hardy, early Pea, resembling
Laxton's William Hurst in every respect, except that it has
white seed.

Green-seeded Wrinkled Peas

American Wonder Pea.— An exceedingly dwarf variety,
growing more than 10 in. high. Stem short, stiff, usually
or only branching at the neck,
and bearing rather large, rounded
dark green, slightly glaucous
leaves ; flowers small, white ; pods
sometimes in pairs, but mostly
solitary and commencing to appear
about the seventh or eighth joint
of the stem, which seldom carries
more than five tiers of pods.
These are straight, very much
swollen, 2 in. or more in length,
comparatively broad, and exceed-

seldom
single,

American Wonder Pea.

\

Pods (natural size).

ingly well filled, each containing from six to eight large flat peas
which, when ripe, become very much wrinkled, rather flat, and
a pale bluish green.

SHELLING PEAS 527

English Wonder Pea. — A dwarf Pea, not much over 14 in. in

height, with short and very branching stem bearing five or six tiers
of flowers in pairs. The pods are medium-sized, straight, rounded
at the end, and well filled with from six to eight rather small,
flattened, wrinkled green peas. In productiveness this variety is
both abundant and prolonged, and its quality is of the best.

Witham Wonder Pea. — Very dwarf, much like the English
Wonder Pea, but not usually more than n or 12 in. in height.
It is half-early. The stems are thick, branching, bearing pods near
the soil, and five or six tiers of flowers in pairs. The pods are thin,
between 3 and 4 in. long, curved at the end, well filled with eight
or nine rather small, much flattened, wrinkled green peas. A very
productive variety, and of excellent quality.

William Hurst Pea. — Stems short, irregular, and close jointed ;
the leaves and stipules small, oblong, rather stiff, of an ash-green
colour. Though small, it is a vigorous and sturdy variety. The flowers
are small, white, solitary, or in pairs, and start from the eighth joint
upwards. The pods are thin, fairly long, much curved, and contain
six to eight medium-sized glaucous green and, when ripe, much-
wrinkled peas. One of the best dwarf sorts for the kitchen-garden
as well as the field.

Stratagem Pea. — Very like the Pride of the Market
Pea, the only difference between the two being that in the
Stratagem Pea the foliage is a more vivid green, and the seed
wrinkled.

EDIBLE-PODDED, or SUGAR, PEAS

French^ Pois sans parchemin. Gen/tan, Zucker-Erbsen. Dutch, Peulen. Italian, Piselli
di guscio tenero. Portuguese, Ervilhas de casca.

In all the varieties of Peas of which we have hitherto spoken, the
pod is lined on the inside with a thin but hard and tough membrane,
which, contracting as the pod ripens and dries, causes it to open into
two equal parts, which become twisted spirally and often project
the peas to some distance. We are now about to describe a class
of varieties the pods of which are destitute of this membrane, and
consequently always soft and tender, and do not open when ripe,
so that they may be eaten entire, the tender fleshy part of the pod
becoming more fully developed in the absence of the tough
parchment-like membrane.

A. TALL CLIMBING VARIETIES

Forty Days Edible-podded Pea.— A climbing variety, from
3j to 4j ft. high. Stems slender, rather long jointed, and com-
mencing to flower at about the fifth or sixth joint ; flowers usually

528

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

in pairs, white, and rather large ; pods straight, slender, somewhat
pointed at the end, very free from membrane, each containing from
six to eight medium-sized peas, rounded or slightly compressed in
shape, round and white when ripe. This variety very seldom
branches, but carries from fifteen to eighteen tiers of pods, which
are produced in succession, so that some of them may be quite ripe

and dry at the base of the
plant, while flowers continue
to appear on the upper part
of the stem. The flowering
is often prolonged for more
than two months.

Tall Early Large-pod
Sugar Pea. — Raised at
Verrieres by crossing the
Forty Days Edible-podded
Pea with the Large Crooked
Sugar Pea. It is a tall Pea,
but not so tall as its two
parents, stakes 3 ft. 3 in. long
being quite sufficient for it.
The flowers are white, usually
solitary, the pods long, broad,
and very fleshy, resembling
those of the Crooked Sugar
Pea. The seeds are very
large, round and white. In
earliness it comes between
the two varieties from which
it has sprung. The pods are
fit for use even when they
are quite fully grown. Like
the Crooked Sugar Pea it
produces as a rule only soli-
tary pods ; but it begins to
bloom near to the ground and
may thus carry quite a number

Forty Days Edible-podded Pea. of tiers of pods, without re-

quiring extra long stakes.

Tall Butter Sugar Pea. — This variety is very clearly distin-
guished from all other kinds of Edible-podded Peas by the swollen
appearance of the pods, which very soon grow to be thicker than they
are broad They are from 2 to nearly 3 in. long, and the sides, which
are very fleshy and succulent, are nearly | of an inch thick. The
pods are pretty deeply curved, and are sometimes solitary, but most
usually in pairs. The stems grow from 3 J to about 4 ft. high, and are

EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS

529

rather slender and long jointed. The leaves are of a rather dark

green, with whitish veins, and are almost devoid of spots. The

flowers, large and white, are only solitary at the base and at the top

of the stem. The stalks which bear the pods are slender, very stiff,

and of medium length. Owing to the great thickness of the sides

or walls of the pods, they do not bulge with the swelling of the

peas, as is the case with most other varieties of Edible-podded Peas.

The peas are white, very

round, and rather large.

This variety is almost

as early as the Ruelle

Michaux Pea. In the

growth of the pod of

the Butter Pea, as in the

Edible-podded Peas in

general, the soft portion

or parenchyma of .the

pod seems to develop at

the expense of the parch-

ment-like membrane,

which is wholly wanting.

There is, however, this

difference between the

pod of the Butter Pea

and those of all other

Edible - podded kinds,

that it is the thickness

or depth of the pod which

takes on the greatest

development, while in

the other kinds, as, for

example, the Large

Crooked Sugar Pea and

the Giant Sugar Pea, it

is the breadth of the pod

which is enlarged.

Tall Green-seeded
Sugar Pea. — A very productive variety raised in Brittany. The
stem is stout, about 4^ ft. high, bearing the pods pretty high
up, in five or six tiers and in pairs. The pods are thin, 2\ to
2$ in. long, not very fleshy, but free from membrane, and contain
six to eight small, round, quite green, smooth or very slightly
wrinkled peas. A late variety, remarkable for its abundant and
prolonged production

Large Crooked, or Scimitar, Sugar Pea (Pois Come de Better).
— A tall climbing variety, 4 to over 4^ ft. high. Stem of medium

34

Tall Early Large-pod Sugar Pea.

530

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

thickness, usually branching, long jointed ; leaves rather large,
a pale yellow-green ; flowers white, very large, well opened,
commencing to bloom at the twelfth or thirteenth joint of the

stem, and almost always
solitary ; pods very large,
whitish, entirely free from
membrane, often twisted,
whence the variety derives
its name, sometimes from
4 to nearly 5 in. long
and i in. or more broad,
each usually containing
from five to eight rather
large round peas, set at
some distance from one
another, and very pale
green, becoming white and
perfectly round when ripe.
The main stem usually
carries from eight to ten
tiers of pods, and the
branches have only from
three to five tiers. This is
an exceedingly productive
variety. It comes in in
mid-season, commencing
to yield soon after the
Forty Days Ed ible-podded
Pea, but continuing to
bear for a much longer
time, and the size and fine
appearance of its pods
cause it to be always more
sought after than any other
kind, so that it is more ex-
tensively grown than any
other variety of Edible-
podded Peas, especially in
the eastern parts of France
and in Switzerland. It is
rather surprising to see
the .comparatively low
estimation in which the
Edible-podded peas are held in the vicinity of Paris.

Two different forms are grown under the same name of Large
Crooked Sugar Pea. The commonest is that just described. The

Tall Butter Sugar Pea (natural size).

EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS

531

other, sometimes known as the Lyons variety, is not quite so tall,
is five or six days earlier, and the pods are generally solkary,
but large and very fleshy.

Melting Saint - Desirat
Pea. — An excellent and
beautiful Pea. It resembles
a Scimitar Sugar Pea, ex-
cepting that it is straight-
podded. The pods are very
large, tender, thick, fleshy,
swelling long before the seed
is fully developed.

Giant Very Large-
Podded Sugar Pea. — A
climbing variety with large,
broad, light-coloured leaves.
Stems tinged with purple,
and usually from 3j to 4! ft.
high ; flowers purplish, some-
times solitary and sometimes
in pairs ; pods very large,
pale green, very much twisted,
sometimes over 6 in. in
length and more than I in.
broad. The two sides or
halves of the pod are
generally, as it were, glued
together, with no space be-
tween them except that
which is completely filled
by the peas, the positions of
which are distinctly marked
on the outside of the pod,
where it bulges over each
pea. Each pod contains
from six to ten large peas,
slightly angular or flattened
in shape, and light green
in colour, turning to gray
finely spotted with brown-
red when ripe. The main

Stem Carries from six to Pods of Large Crooked or Scimitar,

.. . Sugar Pea (natural size).

eight tiers of pods, and the

branches, which are usually two or three in number, have hardly
half that number. The pods of this variety are best for table
use when young, as when they are near ripening both they and

532

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the peas acquire the somewhat strong, hot taste which characterises
all Peas with purple flowers. The peas, perfectly green when

Melting Saint-Desirat Pea.

young and tender, turn gray or brown in cooking. There are
two very distinct forms of the Giant Sugar Pea, one of which is
taller, more vigorous growing, and at the same time later than

EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS 533

Giant Sugar Pea.

the other, and almost always produces the pods in pairs. The
pods of the other, or earlier form, are perceptibly larger, but are
usually solitary.

534

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Under the name of White-flowered and White-podded Sugar
Pea> a variety is grown in Germany which is very late, very
branching, with stems from 5 to 6 ft. high, almost white or wax
yellow in colour, and bearing large broad leaves of a light green
colour ; the stipules are marked with a circle of the same purple
colour as the stem at the place where they clasp it. The flowers
are in pairs and pure white ; they do not commence to bloom
before about the sixteenth joint of the stem. The pods are
straight, pointed at the end, about 3 in. long, and pale yellow,
almost butter-colour ; they contain seven or eight peas, which are
white and round when ripe. This is a rather productive variety,
but very late and of only middling quality. It is very liable to
degenerate, and then has green stems and pods.

B. HALF-DWARF AND DWARF VARIETIES

Early Dwarf Brittany Sugar Pea.— A half-dwarf variety,
from 2 to 2^ ft. high. Leaves rather slight, small, and gray and

glaucous green ; stem
rather short jointed to-
wards the base ; flowers
white, medium - sized,
usually in pairs, and
commencing to bloom
at about the twelfth
joint of the stem, im-
mediately below which
there are generally two
branches of no great
size, bearing from two
to four tiers of pods
which are most com-
monly solitary. The
main stem ordinarily
carries from seven to
ten tiers of pods, which
are produced in pairs,
are of a pale, grayish,
green colour, and are
not much over 2 in. in
length ; they are narrow,
tolerably swollen and
fleshy, quite free from
membrane, each con-
taining from five to

Early Dwarf Brittany Sugar Pea. Pods (natural size). SCVen white peas, of

EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS

535

square shape ; when ripe gray-white, irregular in shape, but rather
rounded. The stems of this variety are very stiff, and as they
are also numerous and short jointed, the tendrils interlace the
plants together in such a manner that they mutually support one
another, and grow erect without needing any stakes, although they
attain some height. This property is worthy of note, as many
other varieties which are of dwarfer growth are very much inferior
to it in this respect.

Dwarf Debarbieux Sugar Pea«

Dwarf Debarbieux Pea. — About 3 ft. in height, with stems
supporting each other by their tendrils intertwining so as to require
no staking. The pods are long, slightly curved, and crowded at
the top of the stems. The peas are large, round, and white when
ripe. Originated in the North of France, it is a rather late variety,
and fit for pulling about the same time as the Ram's-horn or
Scimitar Pea.

Very Dwarf Dutch Frame Sugar Pea.— A very dwarf
variety, not exceeding 8 to 10 in. in height. Stem very zigzag
in growth, and with joints so short that it is difficult to count

536

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

them exactly ; it usually commences to branch at about the
seventh joint, and to flower from the eighth to the tenth joint.
Flowers of medium size, very white and often solitary. The pods,
which are borne in from five to seven tiers on the main stem and in
from two to four tiers on the branches, are whitish green, rather

Dwarf Debarbieux Sugar Pea. Pods (natural size).

narrow, and well filled with white and large peas, from five to
seven in each pod. With the exception of the " strings," which are
rather tough, the pod is thick, fleshy, and quite free from membrane.
This variety is almost as early as the Early Frame Pea, and, like
it, is especially adapted for forcing. There is a sub-variety of it,

EDIBLE-PODDED, OR SUGAR, PEAS

537

which most usually produces solitary pods somewhat larger than
those of the ordinary kind, and has larger and darker-coloured

Very Dwarf Dutch Frame Sugar Pea. Pods (natural size).

leaves, but it possesses no special merit to recommend it in
preference to the form which has just been described.

OTHER FRENCH VARIETIES
A. Shelling Peas

Pois Bivort. — A climbing variety, of moderate height and
early, with smooth white peas. It hardly differs from the Early
Emperor Pea.

P. Blanc cT Auvergne. — A late kind, with a tall, very branching
stem. Flowers white ; pods very small and narrow, but well filled ;
peas white, square in shape. This is a good variety for feeding
cattle, but comes in too late in the season to be of any great use as
a kitchen-garden plant.

P. Cafe. — A Canadian variety of the cattle-feeding class, tall
and late, with red flowers and brown peas, which are somewhat
elongated and flattened in shape.

538 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

P. de Cerons Hdtif. — A climbing and rather early kind, resembling
the Early Emperor in its earliness, and the Early Frame Pea in its
vigorous growth and great productiveness.

P. de Commenchon. — This is a good early Pea, coming in several
days before the Early Emperor, but still not so early as Sangster's
No. I. It has rather large leaves and broad pods, which latter are
as often solitary as in pairs. The peas are smooth, white, and large.

P. Domine. — A sub-variety of the Early Frame Pea, later and
more productive than the ordinary form. It has now almost
entirely gone out of cultivation.

P. Dorf. — A climbing variety, coming in nearly at the same
time as the White Scimitar Pea. Leaves large and very light
coloured ; flowers white ; pods in pairs, long and narrow, and
yellow-green in colour, as are also the peas.

P. Feve. — In its habit of growth this variety rather resembles
the Marly Pea and its allies, but is distinguished from them by the
shape of its peas, which are somewhat oblong and are marked with
a black spot on the hilum.

P. Gfant. — A large late Pea, with a very tall stem. Flowers
violet-coloured ; pods large, in pairs ; peas square in shape, grayish
in colour, or slightly speckled with black ; hilum black.

P. le Plus Hdtif Biflore, de Gendbrugge. — An early kind, coming
very near the Early Emperor, from which it is distinguished by
being a little earlier and not quite so vigorous in growth.

P. Gros Jaune. — A very distinct variety, of a very light, almost
yellowish, green colour in all its parts ; often one-flowered. The
pods and peas resemble those of the Pois Carre Blanc.

P. Gros Quarantain de Cahors. — This is a climbing variety,
coming very near the Marly Pea, but a little earlier. The peas are
white and large.

P. de Lorraine. — This is more a cattle-feeding than a kitchen-
garden Pea. It is very late, and has very small pods.

P. de Madere. — A climbing kind, rather like the Marly Pea in
its habit of growth, but distinguished from it by its peas having
a black spot on the hilum. It differs from the Pois Feve in the
whiteness and well-rounded form of the peas.

P. Michaux a (Eil Noir (Black-eye Pea). — This variety is very
distinctly characterised by the black spot on the hilum of the pea.
It comes in about the same time as the Ruelle Michaux Pea, is
productive, and is said to succeed very well in warm climates.

P. Michaux de Nanterre. — This is a sub-variety of the Early
Frame Pea, a little later than the ordinary form, but not quite so
late as the Pois Domine mentioned above.

P. Michemolette. — A climbing, half-late kind, with large, long
pods, but only moderately productive. It comes very close to the
Pois de Gouvigny.

PEAS 539

P. Migron, — A good, very early, and productive climbing Pea,
very closely allied to the English varieties, Dickson's First and
Best and Daniel O'Rourke.

P. Nain Gros Blanc de Bordeaux. — A variety very much
esteemed in its native district for growing on a large scale in
market-gardens. It is half-dwarf, two-flowered, and a little later
than the Common Dwarf- Pea, but has larger pods and peas.

P. Nain Gros Sucre. — A very dwarf variety, scarcely as high as
the Brittany Very Dwarf Pea. Leaves narrow and light green ;
flowers in pairs ; pods short and rather narrow, each containing
from six to eight pale, smooth, regular-shaped peas. This variety
appears to be at present lost to cultivation.

P. Nain Vert de St. Michel. — A very productive variety,
growing about 20 in. high, with stiff, thick-set, branching stems.
The pods, which are produced in pairs, are well rilled with medium-
sized, round, green peas.

P. Nain Vert Petit. — A half-dwarf, very distinct kind, about
2\ ft. high, with a branching stem. Leaves rather slight and dark
green ; flowers very white ; pods narrow, slightly curved ; peas
small, green, and very round. This variety is a trifle later than the
Blue Prussian and the Imperial Dwarf Green Pea.

P. Quarantain. — A variety which is very generally grown in
the neighbourhood of Paris, especially in the vicinity of St. Denis.
It is a very early climbing kind, usually with solitary flowers, and
in point of earliness does not differ much from the English variety,
Dickson's First and Best.

P. Quarante-deux. — This is grown in the same localities as the
preceding variety, and comes in later. It is a good variety, with
short but well-filled pods. The stems are rather slender. It is
somewhat earlier than the Early Emperor. Some growers dis-
tinguish two forms of it — one as early as the Early Emperor, but
yielding for a shorter period, and the other almost as early as
Sangster's No. I. This latter form seems to be confounded with
the Pois Quarantain.

P. Remontant Vert a Rames (Green Branching Pea). — A rather
slender and tall-stemmed variety, almost as early as the White
Scimitar Pea. Flowers often solitary ; pods long and slender, each
containing seven or eight round dark green peas.

P. Remontant Vert a Demi-Rames. — A half-dwarf, very
branching kind, which continues bearing for a long time. It is
pretty closely allied to the Pois Nain Vert Petit (mentioned
above), but is distinguished from it by the somewhat larger size
of the peas.

P. Ride tres-nain a Bordures. — Was in favour for growing as an
edging to beds of other vegetables, until the introduction of the
American Wonder and William Hurst Pea superseded it.

540 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

P. Vert Nain du Cap. — This is rather a half-dwarf than a really
dwarf variety, with stiff branching stems, and flowers in pairs,
exhibiting a considerable resemblance to the Blue Prussian Pea,
but with peas of smaller size and not so blue in tint. It is not a
very productive kind.

B. Edible-podded, or Sugar, Peas

Pois de Commenchon Sans Parchemin. — A climbing variety,
not more than from $J to 4 ft. high, almost as early as the
Early Emperor. Flowers white, large ; pods medium-sized,
whitish.

P. Friolet Sans Parchemin. — A climbing kind, very much like
the Ruelle Michaux Pea, but entirely free from membrane. Pods
straight, somewhat swollen, and pale in colour.

P. Mange-tout Demi-nain a (Eil Noir. — A half-dwarf early
variety, coming in a few days earlier than the Early Dwarf Brittany
Sugar Pea. Flowers violet-coloured ; pods small, slightly twisted ;
peas gray, not spotted, and with a black hilum.

P. Sans Parchemin a Cosse Jaune. — A half-early climbing
variety, with large light green leaves. Flowers white, tinged with
yellow, in pairs ; pods long, rather broad, entirely free from
membrane, and green-yellow ; peas somewhat long in shape, and
light yellow.

P. Sans Parchemin a Fleur Rouge (Tall Red-flowered Sugar
Pea). — A tall late -Pea, with the stem usually branching. Flowers
pale red, not violet-coloured, in pairs ; pods medium-sized, narrow,
somewhat curved, sometimes slightly twisted ; peas pale brown,
marbled with red.

P. Sans Parchemin Tres Hdtif a Fleur Rouge. — A climbing
variety, almost as early as Sangster's No. I. Stem thin and
slender, seldom exceeding about 3 ft. in height ; flowers violet-
coloured, with a red keel, commencing to bloom very low
down on the stem ; pods small, whitish, and very free from
membrane.

P. Sans Parchemin Nain Capucin. — This variety is very much
grown in the north of France, where it is highly esteemed. It
somewhat resembles the Early Dwarf Brittany Pea, and is hardy,
exceedingly productive, very free from membrane, and comes in
half-early. The plant grows from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, and the peas
are round, white, and very smooth.

P. Sans Parchemin Nain Gris (Dwarf Gray Sugar Pea). — A
distinct, half-dwarf, branching variety, with violet-coloured flowers
and small and very numerous pods. It has been generally
superseded by the early white-flowered varieties.

PEAS

P. Sans Parchemin Nain Hdtif de Hollande. — A dwarf variety,
growing from about 20 in. to

2 ft. high, and a true early kind,
as it flowers about the same
time as the Ruelle Michaux Pea.
Pods rather small, between 2 and

3 in. long and f in. broad, slightly
curved, and quite free from
membrane.

P. Sans Parchemin Nain
Ordinaire (Common Dwarf Sugar
Pea). — This variety differs very
little from the preceding one. It
comes in a day or two later, but
is hardier and rather more pro-
ductive. Both varieties are now
superseded in cultivation by the
Early Dwarf Brittany Sugar
Pea.

P. Sans Parchemin Ride Nain
(Knight's Dwarf Marrow Sugar
Pea). — This is rather a half-dwarf
than a really dwarf kind, as it
grows from about 2-J to upwards
of 3 ft. high. Flowers white, in
pairs ; pods small, numerous,
generally curved, and free from
membrane ; peas wrinkled, small,
square or flattened. This is a
very distinct variety, but it has
the fault of being somewhat
late. The peculiarity of the pea
being wrinkled adds nothing to the merit of the variety as a
Sugar Pea.

Knight's Dwarf Marrow Pea.

OTHER ENGLISH VARIETIES
A. Round or Smooth-skinned Peas

Batt's Wonder.— A half-dwarf, rather thick-set kind, with
large dark green leaves. Flowers in pairs ; pods long and slender,
slightly curved and pointed ; peas round, sometimes square from
pressure in the pod, and dark green. A productive, hardy, and
somewhat late variety.

Beck's Gem. — A dwarf variety, seldom exceeding a foot in
height. Stem stiff, often branching ; flowers white, in pairs ; pods

542

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

rather short, and broad ; peas large, pale in colour. A half-early
and, notwithstanding its dwarfness, a rather productive variety.

Bedman's Imperial.— A climbing variety, about 4 ft. high,
with flowers sometimes solitary, and sometimes in pairs. Pods
long, and very slightly curved, but blunt at the end ; peas large,
somewhat oblong in shape, green. Ripens half-early.

Blue Dwarf English. — This variety differs from the Common
Early Dwarf Pea in having leaves of a more yellow tint, stem a
little taller, flowers almost always in pairs,
and pods not quite so long, but more pointed.
This kind is suitable for growing in the same
way as the Common Early Dwarf Pea.

Blue Prussian. — A half-dwarf kind,
growing from about 2j to over 3 ft. high.
Pods generally in pairs, seldom solitary,
almost straight, and square at the end ; peas
large, round, very green ; bluish when ripe.
This is one of the kinds which are most
extensively grown by market-gardeners.

Blue Scimitar. — A half-dwarf kind,
seldom exceeding about 2\ ft. in height, and
of a very vigorous growth. Pods pretty
often solitary, long, slender, very much curved,
and pointed at the end ; they are very well
filled, each containing from eight to ten
rather large and very green peas. This
variety also is very much grown by market-
gardeners.

Charlton. — At the present day this
variety is almost lost to cultivation, but
formerly it was very much grown and
highly valued. In England it seems to
have been the equivalent of the French Pois Michaux de Hollande
or Early Emperor. It was a climbing variety, with white round
peas, grown for an early crop.

Claudit (Am). — A half-dwarf variety, ripening mid-season,
fairly productive ; the stems rather slender ; the pods long and
numerous ; the seed round and light green.

Dickson's Favourite. — A climbing Shelling Pea, very closely
allied to the White Scimitar Pea in its habit of growth, its earliness,
and the appearance of its pods and peas. In fact, the two varieties
might almost be considered identical.

Earliest of All (Laxton). — A tall, very early, not very produc-
tive variety, with slender stems.

Early Emperor. — A climbing variety, with round white Peas,
almost exactly like those of the Michaux de Hollande, or Double-

Blue Dwarf English Pea.

PEAS 543

blossomed Frame Pea. Differs from it only in being frequently
one-flowered.

Early Kent. — This is almost exactly the kind which was
formerly grown in France under the name of Prince Albert. At
the present day the latter name is applied to a variety which
comes in somewhat earlier and almost corresponds to Dillistone's
Early Pea.

Fairbeard's Surprise. — A climbing variety, about 5 ft. high.
Flowers white, large, generally solitary ; pods long, rather broad,
faintly curved, and rounded at the end ; peas large, very green, and
slightly oval in shape. A very early kind.

Flack's Imperial. — A half-dwarf kind, usually not more than
about 3 ft. high. Pods pretty often solitary, but most usually in
pairs, long and rather broad, slightly curved, and square at the
end ; peas large, and somewhat oval in shape, becoming slightly
blue when ripe.

Harbinger.— This is the earliest of all Shelling Peas. It is a
small-sized and exceedingly slender climbing Pea, remarkably like
Dillistone's Early Pea, but coming in two or three days earlier.
Flowers solitary ; pods short and very slender ; peas small, round>
and green when ripe.

Kentish Invicta (East's Kentish Invictd). — This may be de-
scribed as a green-seeded Daniel O'Rourke Pea. It grows to nearly
the same height, is equally early, and almost equally productive.
The first flowers are often abortive.

Laxton's Evergreen. — Having for a time enjoyed a certain
amount of favour, this variety appears to be now almost entirely
neglected. It is a tall climbing Pea, with a rather slender and very
branching stem, bearing slender, slightly curved pods of medium
length. The peas are round and small, and, when ripe, a peculiar
olive-green, easily recognised.

Laxton's Prolific Long-pod. — A tall climbing variety, 5 ft. or
more in height. Leaves very large, and light coloured ; flowers in
pairs ; pods almost like those of the White Scimitar Pea in shape*
fully one-third longer and thicker, but far less numerous ; peas
white, irregular in shape, not perfectly smooth, without being
wrinkled.

Laxton's Superlative. — A tall climbing, thick-stemmed Pea.
Leaves broad and luxuriant, but not tufty ; pods almost always
in pairs, often nearly 5 in. long, very much curved, pointed, and
greatly swollen when ripe. They are not, however, very well filled,
each pod only containing from six to eight small round peas, when
ripe pale green.

Laxton's Supplanter. — A half-dwarf variety, with large,,
rather dark, but very glaucous leaves. Stem usually single, com-
mencing to flower at the seventh or eighth joint ; flowers white*

544 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

seldom opening fully, and usually in pairs ; pods about 3^ in. long,
dark green, remarkably broad, especially at the lower end, each
containing from six to eight very green peas, flattened at the sides
and square. They retain their deep green colour when ripe, at
which time they are flat in shape, angular, and sometimes slightly
hollowed on the faces. The stem usually carries from eight to
twelve tiers of pods. This is a productive variety, continuing to
yield for a long time,

Laxton's Unique. — This is a very dwarf variety, growing from
12 to 14 in. high, with a usually branching stem. Pods in pairs,
rather broad, tolerably curved, of medium length, and pointed at
the end ; peas .round, rather small, half white and half pale green
when ripe.

Paradise Marrow.— A vigorous-growing climbing Pea, 5 to 6 ft.
high, usually branching. Pods sometimes in pairs, but generally
solitary, 4 in. long at least, broad, square at the end, and very
slightly curved, well filled ; peas seven to nine in each pod, large
and sweet, becoming round and white when ripe.

Peruvian Black-eye Marrow. — An American variety re-
sembling the Pot's de Madere. It is also very like the Marly and
Gouvigny Peas, but is distinguished from them by having a black
spot on the hilum.

Philadelphia Extra Early. — Another American kind. A
handsome climbing, very early Shelling Pea, very much resembling
Daniel O'Rourke. Peas white.

Prizetaker Green Marrow. — A rather slender climbing Pea.
Leaves medium size, glaucous green ; stipules very broad, dark
green, distinctly blotched with gray-green ; stem slender, long
jointed, sometimes single and sometimes with one or two branches;
flowers almost always solitary, usually commencing to bloom at the
twelfth joint of the stem ; pods dark green, from about 3 to nearly
4 in. long, faintly curved like a pruning-knife blade, and quite
square at the end. Each pod contains from eight to eleven smooth
green peas, which completely fill it, and are usually misshapen by
toeing pressed against one another.

Royal Dwarf (White Russian}. — A half-dwarf variety, about
2j ft. high, branching. Pods generally solitary, rather broad, very
faintly curved, each containing five or six large peas, somewhat
•oval in shape, and very white when ripe.

Shilling's Grotto. — A climbing Pea, about 4 ft. high, not
branching. Pods long, narrow, and slightly curved, each contain-
ing seven or eight peas, which become white and round when ripe.

William the Conqueror. — Half-dwarf, pretty early, pods slightly
curved, resembling those of William Hurst, but its seed is round.

Woodford Marrow. — A half-dwarf variety, with a stout, often
.branching stem, about 3 ft. high. Leaves dark green, glaucous ;

PEAS 545

pods sometimes solitary, sometimes in pairs, long, rather slender,
and of a dark green colour. Each pod contains seven or eight
peas, which, from being closely pressed against one another, are
square, and, when ripe, olive-green, like those of Laxton's Ever-
green Pea. *

B. Wrinkled Peas

Abundance (American}. — Comes pretty near Stratagem, and
apparently not superior to it.

Admiral (Am.). — A tall variety, somewhat earlier than our
Knight's Wrinkled Pea ; pods blunt at the end, produced in
pairs, slightly curved ; seed white, wrinkled.

Admiral Dewey (Am.). — Resembles very much the Telephone.

Alderman. — Comes near the Duke of Albany, but the pods are
more regularly produced in pairs.

Ambassador. — A tall variety ; resembles Duke of Albany.

Captain Cuttle. — A half-dwarf variety, with large glaucous
leaves ; pods large, regularly produced in pairs ; seed green and
wrinkled.

Celebrity. — A tall variety ; resembles very much Duke of
Albany.

Champion of England.— Of medium height, very branching ;
pods produced in pairs ; seed green and wrinkled.

Connoisseur. — A vigorous kind, rather late, but productive,
and considered to be of exceptionally fine quality. Notwith-
standing its high character, it does not appear to be very much
grown.

Criterion. — A climbing variety, very productive, half-early,
about 4j ft. high, with rather slender stems, scanty leaves of pale
green colour ; pods long, straight, well filled ; the peas remain
green, and become much wrinkled at maturity.

Crown Prince (Am.). — A dwarf variety, resembling somewhat
the White Eugenie, but with shorter and broader pods.

Daisy. — A late dwarf variety, with wrinkled seed ; leaves light
green ; resembles very much Pride of the Market.

Dr. Hogg. — An excellent, early, and fairly productive climbing
variety, with a slender stem, seldom exceeding 4 ft. in height
Leaves slight ; pods usually solitary, long, very much curved, and
exceedingly well filled ; peas large, square, and remaining green
when ripe. This variety is at least as early as the Early Emperor.

Dr. MacLean. — A half-d\varf variety, with handsome, long,
curved pods, about 3 in. in length, but not very numerous and not
always well filled. A half-late kind.

Duke of York.— Pretty early, 2.\ ft. or so in height. Pods
often produced in pairs, broad and long ; seed green and wrinkled.
* Select List of Peas (Early Dwarf Varieties), see pp. 768, 769.

35

546 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Maple. — A small slender variety, with purple-coloured
flowers, remarkable for nothing except its very great earliness. It
comes into flower about the same time as Sangster's No. I.

Exonian. — A tall, very early, and very productive variety ;
leaves dark green ; seed pale green and wrinkled.

Gardener's Delight. — A climbing, tall variety ; stems very
branching, but rather slender ; few leaves ; pods short, broad, always
in pairs, and containing from five to eight large peas, which become
white and wrinkled when ripe. Continues bearing for a long time.

Giant Emerald Marrow. — Very closely allied to Knight's Tall
Marrow, but distinguished from it by the light green of its leaves,
which glisten like those of Button's Emerald Gem. It is a rather
late kind, with large white wrinkled peas.

Hair's Dwarf Mammoth. — A half-dwarf variety, exceedingly
vigorous. Stem thick and strong, about 2\ ft. high, and often
branching ; pods in pairs, long and broad, very slightly curved,
and well filled ; peas green, wrinkled.

Hay's Mammoth (Tall White Mammoth, IV ard's Incomparable).
— A vigorous-growing climbing Pea, attaining a height of 6J ft.
Stem thick and stout, generally branching ; pods, usually in pairs,
long, broad, nearly square at the end, but very much narrowed
towards the stalk ; peas white, wrinkled. This is a late variety,
but continues bearing for a long time, often until very late in
autumn.

John Bull. — A very handsome, half-dwarf Wrinkled variety,
with fine long pods and green peas. It comes in a little earlier
than MacLean's Best of All Pea.

Kelvedonian. — A tall, half-early variety, less productive than
Duke of Albany ; pods broad, long, straight ; seed green, wrinkled.

King Edward VII. — A very distinct kind, 19 or 20 in. high ;
leaves light green, curled ; pods dark green, slightly curved ; seed
green, wrinkled.

Laxton's Marvel. — A half-dwarf variety, with long, slightly
curved pods ; and large green wrinkled peas.

Laxton's Omega. — A half-dwarf kind, dark green in all its
parts, very late, and named so as to indicate that it closes the
list of Peas. The pods are thin, long, slightly curved, blunt, well
filled with green peas very closely set together and not very much
wrinkled when ripe, but rather square and hollowed on the sides,
and in colour light green.

Little Gem. — A very dwarf kind, 12 to 16 in. high, vigorous*
and usually very branching. The pods are rather small, but broad,
straight, and well filled. The peas, when ripe, are pale coloured,
bluish, and wrinkled.

May Queen. — A tall early variety ; leaves light green \ pods,
broad and blunt at the end ; seed green, wrinkled.

PEAS 547

Minimum.— An exceedingly dwarf variety, with white wrinkled
peas.

Multum in Parvo. — A very dwarf kind, about i ft. high, of
compact and thick-set growth. Leaves broad and rather numerous,
of a deep blue-green ; pods usually solitary, short and rather broad,
and narrowed towards the. end ; peas pale green or greenish white
when ripe. A rather early variety.

Ne Plus Ultra (Payne's Conqueror, Cullingford? s Champion}. —
A very tall-growing late Pea, sometimes over 6£ ft. high. Pods
numerous, commencing at about one-third the height of the plant,
usually in pairs, long, broad, perceptibly curved, and very narrow
towards the stalk ; peas very large, somewhat oval, and green and
wrinkled when ripe. First-class quality.

Nelson's Vanguard. — A half-dwarf Wrinkled Pea. Leaves
rather large ; pods borne in pairs, of medium length, but rather
broad. This variety comes into use about the same time as the
Early White Dwarf Wrinkled Pea, but is of a more compact and
thick-set habit of growth.

Norwich Wonder. — A sub-variety of Telephone, with shorter
pods.

Nott's Excelsior (Am). — A small dwarf variety, a little taller
than American Wonder, which it resembles.

Nutting's No. I. — A branching, rather vigorous-growing, but
really dwarf variety. Stem stiff, about 20 in. high ; pods numerous,
in pairs, of moderate length, but well filled, nearly straight, and
blunted at the end ; peas white, wrinkled. A very early kind, and
one of the best Dwarf White Wrinkled Peas.

Pioneer. — A small climbing variety, with fine slender stems,
like those of Sangster's No. I. Pods of medium size, usually
solitary, straight, palish coloured, each containing five or six peas,
which become white and wrinkled when ripe.

Princess of Wales.— A half-dwarf variety, seldom exceeding
2\ ft. in height. Leaves pale, rather numerous ; pods short, broad,
blunt, whitish, very close together at the top of the stem owing to
the shortness of the joints; peas wrinkled, pale green, and sometimes
almost white.

Sharpe's Early Paragon.— A climbing kind, half-early, remark-
able for the large size and light green of its leaves : pods broad,
pale green, blunt, thick ; peas green, wrinkled, and fairly large.

Standard. — A half-dwarf kind, about 2 ft. 8 in. high. Stem
stout, and very leafy ; leaves pale green, pods long, pointed, very
much curved, rather swollen, each containing about ten large round
peas, which become wrinkled when ripe, some of them remaining
green, while others turn perfectly white.

Tall Green Mammoth, or King of the Marrows.— A very
tall and very late variety, exceeding 6 ft in height. Stems very

548 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

branching ; pods large, broadening towards the end ; pea medium-
sized, wrinkled, and green.

Telegraph. — This variety comes near Telephone, but is distinct.
It grows 4 ft. high, and bears very numerous long, broad pods, con-
taining large peas, which, when cooked, are a deep green colour
and of excellent flavour.

The Sherwood. — A dwarf kind, with broad leaves ; pods
straight, dark green, well filled ; seed green and wrinkled.

Wem. — A late sort, 3 ft. in height, producing an abundance
of thick pods, solitary or in pairs ; seed wrinkled, oblong, and
light green.

Yorkshire Hero. — Half-dwarf, bearing on the top of the stems
broad short pods ; seed large, green, flattened, wrinkled, and of
good quality.

GERMAN VARIETIES

Buchsbaum-Erbse. — A very dwarf Shelling Pea, rather like the
Brittany Dwarf Pea, but coming in a little earlier and having some-
what larger pods. The name is also applied to a very dwarf and
thick-set Edible-podded Pea.

Grosse Graue Florentiner Zucker-Erbse. — This variety is almost
exactly the same as the old Giant Sugar Pea. It is a very tall,
somewhat late kind, and usually produces flowers in pairs. The
pods are nearly the same size as those of the Large Crooked Sugar
Pea, and are generally straighter than those of the Giant Sugar Pea,
which is now commonly grown, and which has been already described.

Pots Jaune cfOr de Blocksberg. — A Shelling Pea, rather like the
White Scimitar Pea, but of a more slender habit of growth, not
quite so tall, and somewhat earlier. It is particularly distinguished
by the wax-yellow tint of its pods and fresh peas, but as a fine
green colour is generally looked for in Peas, this is a defect.

Kapuziner-Erbse. — In Germany, and especially in Holland, this
name is given to all kitchen-garden peas which have red flowers,
and is chiefly applied to the Edible-podded Peas, as these are
almost the only kinds with coloured Rowers which are grown.
There are both climbing and dwarf varieties of these peas.

Ruhm von Cassel Erbse. — A variety very closely allied to the
White Scimitar Pea, and might almost be considered identical with
it, only that its pods are straighter or less curved than those of
that kind.

Ftiihe Heinricfts Zucker-Erbse. — A climbing Sugar Pea, of
moderate height, rather like the Ruelle Michaux Pea. Flowers
often solitary. A good and rather early variety, but not so
productive as the good half-dwarf kinds, such as the Brittany
Sugar Pea.

PEAS: GERMAN VARIETIES

549

HolldndiscJte Grilnbleibende Spate Zucker-Erbse. — A very tall
late kind, with white flowers in pairs. Pods of medium size, much
smaller than those of the Large Crooked Sugar Pea. This variety
does not commence to bear until late in the season, but it continues
bearing for a long time. It requires very tall stakes.

Sehr Fruhe Buchsbaum de Grace. — This Pea may, at the most,
be considered only a sub-variety of the ordinary Dwarf Dutch
or Dwarf Crooked Sugar Pea, being merely a little more slender in
habit, and growing a trifle taller. It is not a very productive kind,
but very early and exceedingly dwarf.

Zwerg- Buchsbaum de Grace. — A very dwarf variety, with small,
gray, slender, scanty leaves. The pods are not always free from
membrane.

WINGED PEA

Lotus TetragonolobuSy L. ; Tetragonolobus purpureus^ Mcench.

Leguminosce.

French, Lotier cultive. German, Flugel-Erbse. Flemish, Vogelvitse. Danish, Asparges
certen. Spanish, Bocha cultivada.

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — An almost creeping plant,
with stems spreading on the ground, about I ft. long and pale
grayish green, of the same tint as
the leaves, which are composed of
three broad, short leaflets. Flowers a
fine, slightly brown red ; pods square,
with membranous wings at the angles,
from about 2\ to over 3 in. long, and
tolerably fleshy when young ; seeds
yellow, almost spherical, or slightly
flattened. Their germinating power
lasts for five years. This plant is
grown in the same manner as Lentils
or French Beans. The seed is sown
in April where the crop is to stand,
and the plants require no attention
except watering in very dry weather.
The pods, when young and tender,
are eaten like Haricot Beans. The seed, when roasted, forms
one of the many substitutes for coffee.

Winged Pea (^ natural size).

PEA-NUT, EARTH-NUT, or GROUND-NUT

Arachis hypogcea, L. Leguminosce.

French, Arachide. German, Erdnuss. Italian, Cece di terra. Spanish, Cocahueta.
Portuguese, Amenduinas.

Native of South America.— Annual. — A plant with weak, almost
creeping, stems. Leaves consisting of two pairs of oval leaflets.

550

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

with a broad emarginate stipule at the base of the leaf-stalk ;

flowers yellow, solitary, in the axils of the leaves ; pods oblong,

often contracted in the middle, like a Bottle-Gourd, of irregular

shape, reticulated, yellowish, each containing two or three nuts as

large as good-sized peas, of an oblong
shape, and covered with a brown or red
skin. The germinating power of the peas
lasts for only one year. A peculiarity
of this plant is that the flowers insert
their ovaries into the ground, where
they complete their growth, and where
the seeds or nuts ripen, at a depth of
from 2 to 4 in. In America several
varieties are grown, differing from one
another in the size of the nuts and the
number contained in each pod.

CULTURE. — The seeds or nuts are
sown in spring, as soon as the frosts
are over, and the_ plant succeeds best.
in light soils. Being a tropical plant,

it may sometimes live and ripen its fruit in the west of Europe,

but cannot be profitably cultivated here.

USES. — In warm countries the nuts are often eaten raw or

parched. An oil, of the greatest value for economic purposes, is

also extracted from them.

POTATOES

Solatium tuberosuui) L. Solanacece*

French, Pomme de terre. German, Kartoffel. Flemish and Dutch, Aardappeh
Danish, Jordepeeren. Italian, Patata. Spanish and Portuguese, Patatas. Spanish
{American), Papa.

Native of the high mountain regions of South America. —
Annual, but virtually perennial through its tubers. — The history
of the discovery and the introduction of the Potato into Europe
is rather obscure. It appears certain, however, that towards the
close of the sixteenth century the plant began to be generally
cultivated and used as a table vegetable. It was first grown in
the Netherlands, Lorraine, Switzerland, and Dauphine, and its
cultivation extended even to Spain and Italy before it became
common in the central and northern districts of France. In fact,
it was not until after Parmentier had laboured and written on
the subject, that the Potato was appreciated at its true value in
the neighbourhood of Paris and the adjoining localities. Almost
about the same time, its culture began to acquire some degree

POTATOES 551

of importance in England, and from that time forward it has
extended most rapidly, and, in spite of the disease, which about
the middle of the last century threatened complete ruin to its
cultivation, the Potato still holds the first place amongst edible
tubers.

Varieties of the Potato might be counted to the number of
many thousands, if any one wished to record all that have been
raised and recommended in different countries during the last
hundred years. This extreme multiplicity of varieties has obliged
us to pass over a very large number of them, and we shall confine
ourselves to the description of fifty varieties or so which appear
to us to be the most distinct and, at the same time, the most
worthy of note.

The stem of the Potato is generally solid, more or less
quadrangular, and often furnished with membranous wings at
the angles. The leaves are compound, formed of oval leaflets,
between which are often found small leafy growths, like leaflets of
smaller size. The flowers are produced in axillary and terminal
clusters, and have an entire, wheel-shaped, five-pointed corolla,
varying in colour from pure white to purplish. Many varieties do
not flower, and of those which do flower, a very great number never
bear fruit. The fruit is rounded or very shortly oval, green in
colour or (rarely) tinged with violet-brown, and averages about I in.
in diameter. It contains, in the midst of a green and very acrid
pulp, small, white, kidney-shaped seeds. These are never sown
except for the purpose of raising new varieties.

The tubers, which are only underground branches swollen and
filled with starchy matter, exhibit very great differences in shape
and colour, according to the varieties. They are usually divided
into the four classes of Round, Oblong, Long Notched, and Long
Smooth Potatoes. To these characteristics, and those which are
derived from the colour, may be added those which are furnished
by the buds or shoots which are produced by the tubers when kept
in a dark place. These are very constant in appearance and colour,
and afford the means of distinguishing one variety from another
with a considerable degree of accuracy. We believe few charac-
teristics are so important as these for determining varieties, and in
a work* recently published we thus spoke of them : "Whether the
tubers have attained their full growth, or, on the contrary, have
remained exceedingly small and puny ; whether they have been
fully ripened or not ; whether, even, they are sound or diseased,
provided they have enough vitality left to enable them to commence
to vegetate, the buds or shoots always develop themselves with the

* " Essai d'un Catalogue Methodique et Synonymique des Principales
Varietes de Pomme de Terre," par Henry Vilmorin. Third edition. (Paris,
1902.)

552 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

same appearance and the same colour in the same variety " — on
condition, of course, that the tuber has not been exposed, either
before or during the growth of the shoot, for any length of time to
the influence of light.

CULTURE* -When grown in the open ground, Potatoes are
usually planted in April, in holes or pockets at a distance from one
another of from 1 6 in. to 2 ft, according to the vigour of growth of
the variety. Entire tubers of medium size are the best for planting.
They should be covered, at the time of planting, with soil to the
depth of 4 or 5 in., and the practice is to earth up as soon as the
stems have grown to a height of 6 to 8 in., the ground being then
also hoed for the second time. The earthing-up is not absolutely
necessary, but it has the advantage of causing the tubers to lie
closer round the roots of the plant, so that they are more easily
taken up. Potatoes ripen, or, at least, become good enough for
use, from the beginning of June to the end of October, according
to the varieties. When the tubers for planting have been exposed
to the influence of light and air, they generally vegetate earlier and
more vigorously ; but, in this case, much care must be taken, when
planting, not to break off the shoots which have commenced their
growth.

There is some advantage in planting Potatoes in autumn, as the
yield is generally somewhat heavier than it would be on the same
area and with the same quantity of "seed" Potatoes if planted
in spring. On the other hand, there is the danger of the " seed "
perishing in the ground in very cold or too damp winters, and,
besides, the planting should be done in October or November —
a time when there is almost always much to do in the gardens or
in the fields.

Potatoes may be forced under frames on a hot-bed of greater
or less strength. Forcing may be commenced in December or
January, and monthly plantings in the hot-beds may be continued
up to the middle of March. The Marjolin Potato, which has very
scanty leaves, is chiefly employed for this purpose. New forced
Potatoes may be taken up in two and a half or three months after
planting.

The culture of the Potato in the United Kingdom is so very
extensive, and differs so much according to the district and the aim
of the growers, that we have not space to do justice to it here. We
therefore refer the reader to a small and handy book in which the
culture in all its phases is carefully described, viz. Fremlin's "Potato
in Farm and Garden," and the London market-garden culture is
fully treated of in Shaw's " London Market-Gardens."

USES. — The tubers, either young or ripe, are eaten as a table
vegetable. They are also used for feeding cattle and for the
manufacture of starch and alcohol.t

* See also pp. 769, 770. t Spraying, see p. 771. Sprouting the Seed
Tubers, see pp. 771, 772. Diseases of Potato, see pp. 778, 780.

ROUND YELLOW POTATOES

I. ROUND YELLOW VARIETIES

553

Shaw, or Regent, Potato. — Tuber round, yellow, with a smooth
or wrinkled skin, according to the kind of soil in which it is grown ;
eyes rather deeply sunk ; flesh yellow and very floury ; shoot a
wax-yellow colour, violet-coloured at the base and at the extremity.
Stems rather long, sometimes 3 ft. or more, pliable, almost always
drooping, quite green, or very slightly tinged with brown, faintly
winged, and almost always branching. Leaves short, numerous,
dark and rather dull green ; leaflets crowded closely together, reticu-
lated, and always curled and wavy. Flowers very rarely opening,

r

r^

Shaw, or Regent, Potato.

as they almost always fall off when merely small buds ; when they
do bloom, they are a pale bluish lilac colour. This variety is more
extensively grown than any other kind of Round Yellow Potato in
the vicinity of Paris. It is very productive, floury, and of excellent
quality. If planted in April, the crop ripens in August.

The Segonzac Potato differs from this variety only by a few
characteristics without any importance.

Early Round Yellow Potato. — This may be considered as a
somewhat earlier form of the Shaw, or Regent, Potato, with usually
rounder tubers, which also have fewer eyes. In growth it hardly
differs from that variety. The stems, however, seldom exceed
2 ft or 2 ft. 4 in. in length ; the leaves are not so numerous, and

554

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

are a lighter green, those at the top of the stem being paler and
yellower than those at the base. The flowers fall off while in the
bud state. This is a very fine and excellent variety. If planted
in April, new potatoes, fit for use, may be taken up about the end
of July.

Golden-yellow Norwegian Potato. — Tubers medium-sized,
rounded, sometimes slightly elongated, usually very regular ; skin
of a handsome yellow colour ; flesh yellow, shoot violet. Stems
slender ; leaves small, light green ; flowers flax gray. This is one

Cigarette Potato.

of the best Potatoes for table use, specially in a rather dry climate.
In wet seasons it easily becomes diseased.

Cigarette Potato. — Tubers large, yellow, rounded or slightly
long, flattened, very smooth ; flesh white ; shoot pink. The
stems numerous, strong, somewhat angular, light green ; leaves
rather scanty, with small oval-pointed leaflets, slightly hairy. The
flowers fall off. This variety has against it, from a French point
of view, the whiteness of its flesh, but it has excellent qualities. It
is a heavy cropper, producing perfectly regular tubers very easy
to peel. Ripens mid-season.

Up-to-Date Potato. — Tubers round, sometimes slightly elon-
gated and flattened, almost without eyes ; skin yellow ; flesh pale

ROUND YELLOW POTATOES

555

yellow, of sufficiently good quality to be used for the table ; shoot
pink. Stems high and vigorous ; flowers lilac. An excellent variety,
which ripens at about the same time as the Yorkshire Hybrid,
and if inferior to it in quality, produces considerably heavier crops.
Canada Potato. — A large yellow tuber with the eyes hardly
marked. It is rounded and slightly elongated ; the shoot rose
colour ; stems vigorous, tall, and foliage abundant, and of a gray-
green colour ; the flowers white, in bunches, but producing seed
very seldom. The Canada Potato is best for feeding cattle and for

«aanair

Canada Potato.

industrial purposes. Imported from Canada some years ago by a
French missionary, it has been made known principally by M.
Paul Genest, the President of the Agricultural Cornice of Luneville.
Imperator Potato.— The tuber is rounded or slightly oblong,
large or very large, pale yellow, with the eyes pretty deeply sunk.
The flesh is white ; the shoot violet. The stems are vigorous, tall,
erect, quadrangular, bronzy, and bear large leaves with large rounded
leaflets, sparsely set, which gives the foliage a rather light appear-
ance. The flowers are large, lilac, and do not seed usually. It is
a late variety, the tubers of which are remarkably rich in starch.

556

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Besides its industrial value, it is also one of the most productive
Potatoes known, having produced as much as twenty-six to thirty
tons per acre.

Agnelli's Jewel Potato.— The tubers resemble much those
of Imperator, but are longer and pale yellow. The flesh is white ;
the shoot violet ; the stems tall and very strong ; the leaves like
those of Imperator; the flowers ash-gray. A late variety, intro-

Imperator Potato.

duced from Austria, suitable only for feeding cattle or for the
manufacture of starch. Yields regularly over twenty tons or so to
the acre, and contains 18 per cent, of starch, or even more.

Professor Maerker Potato. — The tubers are large, yellow,
rounded, with the eyes slightly marked ; the flesh is white ; the
shoot violet ; the flowers violet. It is a half-late variety which may
be used for the table, but it is rather a field Potato, rich in starch,
and not liable to disease.

ROUND YELLOW POTATOES

557

Edouard Lefort Potato. — Tubers large, rounded, with well-
marked eyes ; yellow, somewhat wrinkled skin ; flesh yellow, firm,
floury, and agreeable to the taste ; shoot waxy white, tinged purple
at the base and at the point ; stems little developed. This variety
was introduced by M. Edouard Lefort as the result of a cross
between Imperator and Marjolin. It is an early Potato, suitable,

Edouard Lefort Potato.

however, for field culture. Planted at about 20 in. distant in rows
about 24 in. apart, it can produce some 13 tons to the acre, available
for market by the end of July.

Giant Unequalled Potato. — The tubers are very large, yellow,
rounded, sometimes knobby, with deep-sunk eyes ; the flesh yellow,
and the shoot pink. The stems are numerous, strong, erect, light
green, rounded or slightly winged ; the leaves pale green, erect,

558

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

with leaflets crowded close, small, reticulated, and hairy. The flowers
are white, and fall off without seeding. A late variety, still more

Giant Unequalled Potato.

productive than Imperator and richer in starch ; fit for table
purposes, but more especially adapted for industrial uses.

ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 559

Seguin Potato. — Tuber rounded, medium-sized, and a grayish

Seguin Potato.

yellow colour ; skin usually wrinkled ; eyes not very deeply sunk ;
flesh yellow. Diameter generally ranging between 2 and 2i in.
Stems erect, vigorous growing, 2 ft. to 2\ ft. high, quadrangular,

Scotch Champion Potato.

deeply winged, marked with brown above the joints, and generally

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

branching. Leaves rather distant from one another, large, composed
of oval, stalked, large, flat leaflets, and of other leaflets which are
small, sessile, and round. Flowers numerous, large, bluish lilac, in
stout clusters, and produced in succession for a long time. This
variety is very productive and floury, and keeps well. It does not
ripen until September.

Scotch Champion Potato. — Tubers very numerous, rounded,
sometimes flattened ; skin pale yellow, as is also the flesh ; eyes
deeply sunk, but not very numerous ; shoot violet-coloured.

Jeanc<§ Potato.

Diameter seldom exceeding from 2\ in. to 2| in. The tubers are
often longer than broad. Stems very vigorous growing, very erect,
3 ft. or more high, quadrangular, winged, dotted with blackish
brown, and slender. Leaves numerous, growing almost erect,
of medium size, and having the veins spotted with violet colour ;
leaflets elongated, very long pointed, very much reticulated, and
covered with small stiff hairs. Flowers deep violet, with white
points, in rather numerous clusters, and produced in succession for
a long time. Seed very rarely formed. This is an exceedingly
vigorous-growing and productive variety. Some years ago a great

ROUND YELLOW POTATOES 56*

deal of noise was made about it in England, on account of its
resisting the disease. It is not, however, perfectly exempt from it,
but, like the Chardon Potato, it continues to grow when attacked
by the fungus, and ripens its tubers late in autumn, when the disease
has spent much of its force.

Jeance Potato. — Tubers rounded, somewhat irregular, the eyes
being very deeply sunk ; skin of a slightly gray-yellow colour, and
smooth or wrinkled, according to the kind of soil in which the plants
are grown ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Diameter often 3§ in.
and sometimes more. Stems vigorous growing, from 2j in. to
3j ft. long, quadrangular, rather deeply winged, often drooping,
and very much branched. Leaves medium-sized, with short oval-
rounded or heart-shaped leaflets, which are almost flat in the lower
leaves and curled and folded in those at the end of the stem.
Flowers rather numerous, lilac-pink ; fruit seldom. Leaves a pale
gray-green. This Potato, which is best known in the vicinity of
Paris by the name of Pomme de Terre Vosgienney is one of the most
productive and best kinds. It is very floury and keeps well. If
planted in April, the crop ripens in September.

II. OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW VARIETIES

Snowflake Potato. — Tuber oval, always flattened, and re-
markable for its symmetrical shape ; skin pale yellow or grayish
white, sometimes smooth, but usually wrinkled ; flesh white, very
floury, and light in texture ; eyes very faintly marked ; shoot pale
pink. Stem rather erect, seldom exceeding 2 ft. in height, more
round than quadrangular, swollen at the joints, and quite green.
Leaves rather numerous and large, and of a very pale, light yellow-
green ; those at the base of the stem are much larger and flatter
than those at the top. Flowers white, large, very often abortive.
This is one of the best American varieties. It is a productive
and rather early kind, and the flesh is of excellent quality. If
planted in April, the tubers ripen about the middle of July.

Ohio Junior Potato. — Very large, oblong, flattened tubers
very regular in shape, yellow, with eyes very little sunk ; the flesh
white ; the shoot violet-coloured ; the stems vigorous, very thick
but short, and often branching, slightly winged, purple. Leaves
large, of a shining dark green ; leaflets oval, rounded, reticulated,
almost glabrous ; the flowers lilac with white points, not pro-
ductive of seeds. It is above all a field variety, almost as productive
as the Imperator and the Giant Blue Potato, but rather early. One
of its chief merits is seldom to produce those small tubers which,
being started late in the season, have not the time to attain a fair
size and therefore go to waste.

36

562

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Button's Seedling Kidney Potato.— Tubers large, oblong,
flattened, smooth and yellow ; the flesh pale yellow ; the shoot
violet. Stems medium-sized, spreading, angular, slightly purple ;
leaves of fair size, glossy dark green, with large leaflets, oval,
mucronated, somewhat reticulated, slightly reflexed, the flowers
always falling off. A very productive variety of excellent quality,
ripening mid-season.

Chancellor Potato. — Tubers large, oblong, flattened, smooth,
pale yellow ; the flesh yellowish, shoot violet. Stems long,
slender, spreading, slightly winged, violet. The first leaves are

Chancellor Potato.

large, shining green, reticulated, oval with short petioles ; those
produced later are smaller, more pointed and dull green. The
flowers are abundant, purple with white points, falling off. A very
fine variety, much grown for its great productiveness and perfect
shape and excellent keeping quality of its tubers. Ripens half
late.

Queen of the Polders Potato.— Tubers regular, long, flat,
smooth, and slightly curved ; eyes not prominent. The flesh is
light, floury, and white ; the shoot is pink and the stems
short and slender ; leaves of dull dark green, crimped ; leaflets
oblong, reticulated ; flowers white. Neither early nor late, it does

OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 563

very well in the sandy soil of the reclaimed marshes near Mont

Saint- Michel, from
whence large quantities
of it are exported into
England, where it is
much liked.

White Horn Potato.
— Tubers very numerous,
light yellow, and thin,
considering their length;
their diameter scarcely
exceeding the thickness
of the thumb, while their
length is often 3^ to
4j in. The flesh and
flavour are delicate.
A vigorous half -late
variety.

Magnum Bonum
Potato. — Tuber large,
oblong, slightly flattened,
sometimes irregular in
shape ; skin pale yellow,
smooth or wrinkled,
according to the kind
of soil in which the
plants are grown ; flesh
yellow ; eyes pretty well
marked, and prominent
rather than sunk ; shoot
pink. Stems very erect,
vigorous growing, quad-
rangular, winged, tinged
with coppery red above
the joints, and growing
from about 2j to 3^ ft.
high. Leaves rather far
apart, composed, especi-
ally those towards the
base of the stem, of very
broad, oval-rounded, not
very numerous, almost

Queen of the Polders Potato. fl.at> a"d , b^°adly ™~

ticulated leaflets. The

prevailing tint of the foliage is a pale or grayish green. Flowers
lilac-red, most abortive. An extremely productive mid-season

564

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

variety, coming in about the middle of September. In England
it has the reputation of resisting the disease very well, but in

Magnum Bonum Potato (natural size).

France it is not remarkable in this respect. Although at first
green when other varieties are attacked, when it arrives at the
period when the tubers commence to form, it takes the disease in
its turn, and soon succumbs to it.

Lapstone Potato (English synonyms : Ash-top Fluke, Per-
fection Kidney, Pebble White, Rixton's Pippin, Yorkshire Hero). —

Lapstone, or Yorkshire Hero, Potato (natural size).

Tubers regularly almond-shaped, sometimes short, sometimes long,
and very smooth ; eyes hardly marked ; skin pale yellow, slightly

OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 565

gray, violet-coloured if exposed to the light for any long period ;
flesh pale yellow, very fine flavoured ; shoot hairy, violet-coloured.
Stems half-erect, from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, thick at the base, but
quickly becoming thinner, quadrangular, slightly winged, and of a
very faint copper colour near the joints. Leaves broad, light green,
almost flat, slightly glazed, and having a peculiar appearance which
is easily recognised. Flowers numerous, large, pure white, seldom
producing seed. A very handsome variety, with flesh of fine
flavour, light texture, and excellent quality. If planted in April,
new potatoes may be dug about the end of July.

Early Victor Potato.

Victor Potato. — Tubers flat, oblong, often squared at both
ends, smooth ; the eyes faintly marked. Flesh quite yellow ;
shoot purple. Stems short, vigorous, with large round leaves.
The flowers very scarce, large, and light purple. Of even quicker
growth than the Marjolin Potato. The short stems make it
suitable for cultivation under glass, in which case the tubers are
formed within forty days. In the open ground it is early, and two
successive crops may be grown in the same season.

Bed's Hero Potato. — Tubers yellow, large, oblong, smooth,
almost eyeless, flesh yellow ; shoot white or tinged with pink.
Stems thin, very erect ; leaves abundant, light green ; leaflets
small, oval-pointed, erect, and but slightly reticulated ; flowers

566

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

white, abundant, and falling off. A vigorous but rather dwarf
plant, of like earliness to the Yorkshire Hybrid, having the same
qualities, with rather larger tubers.

Marjolin Potato (English synonyms : Walnut-leaved Kidney,
Sandringham Early Kidney). — Tubers long, often slightly curved,
thicker and rounder at one end, narrowed to a blunt point at the
other, often marked with swellings about the eyes ; skin yellow,
smooth ; flesh very yellow ; shoot, when grown in darkness,
yellowish white, and violet and green when grown in the light.
The tubers grow close together around the bottom of the stem.

Walnut-leaved Kidney Potato (sprouting tubers, natural size).

Stems short, seldom exceeding 16 to 20 in. in length, usually
drooping, not branched, and slightly winged. Leaves medium-
sized, with rounded leaflets, dark green on the upper surface,
much glazed, and almost always spoon-shaped. Flowers white,
rather large, usually abortive, when the variety is very pure.
This is the best known and most extensively grown early
Potato, and forms tubers more quickly than any other kind.
If planted in the open ground in April, the tubers ripen in
June. It is the most suitable kind for growing in frames for

OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 567

an early crop, and is the variety which is most used for that
purpose. There is a form of it which has taller stems, leaves
slightly reticulated, and
numerous white flowers, and
which resembles the Royal
Ash-leaf Kidney. This, al-
though not so early, is far
more productive than the
ordinary variety. It is grown
in the open air. About
Paris, the practice of sprout-
ing " seed " potatoes before
planting them is very
common. For this purpose,
the tubers are ranged on
wicker-work screens (care
being taken to place them
with an eye uppermost), and
kept in a dry place sheltered

from frost until they are Marjolin Potato,

planted. When planting-
time arrives, the screens are carried to the ground, and the
tubers are taken from them one by one and carefully deposited
each in the hole made to receive it. When the tubers are pre-
pared in this way, the crop comes in from ten to fifteen days

earlier than it would ii
they had been planted
without being sprouted.
Besides, the practice oi
sprouting is an almost
certain preventive of a
mishap which occurs
more frequently with this
variety than with any
other — that is, the com-
plete abortion of the
overground stems. When
this happens, no stems
make their appearance
above the surface of the
ground, the tuber pro-
ducing only a few under-

Walnut-leaved Kidney Potatoes sprouted in basket, ground Stems bearing

diminutive tubers which

all together weigh less than the " seed " potato from which they
have grown.

568 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Tetard Marjolin Potato. — Tubers large, flattened, oblong or
almond-shaped ; skin smooth or faintly wrinkled, of a dark,
coppery yellow, assuming a peculiar and easily recognised tint
after the tubers have been taken up out of the ground ; flesh
yellow, very fine and delicate in flavour ; shoot yellowish white.
The tubers are sometimes swollen around the eyes, like those of
the last-named variety. Stems erect, quadrangular, slightly winged,
very rarely branching, quite green, and from 20 in. to 2j ft. high.
Leaves rather curled and wavy, of a green, slightly yellow, colour,
and glistening. Flowers white, rather numerous, but hardly ever
seeding. A very productive and early variety, and exceptionally

T6tard Marjolin Potato (natural size).

good for cooking. If planted in April, new potatoes may be dug
in the latter part of July.

Royal Ash-leaved Kidney Potato (Synonyms : Early Alma
Kidney, Carter's Early Racehorse, Harry Kidney, Royal Ash-top,
Hyatt's Ash-leaved Kidney, Veitch's Ash-leaved Kidney, or
Rivers' Ash-leaved Kidney). — Tuber long, very smooth, kidney-
shaped, or like a Gherkin, almost resembling the Early Marjolin
Potato ; skin yellow ; eyes faintly marked ; flesh yellow ; shoot
violet Stems usually drooping, from 20 in. to 2 ft. long, rather
slender, quadrangular, deeply tinged with a violet-brown colour,
especially near the angles. Leaves dark green ; lower ones broad,
almost flat, moderately reticulated ; upper ones much more twisted
and puckered, and with the leaflets more pointed. Flowers large,
lilac-blue, very seldom blooming. An excellent kind for an early
crop, more suitable for the open ground than for growing in frames.

OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 569

It is almost as early as the Marjolin Potato, but its tubers do not
grow so close together around the
base of the stem, and the foliage is
more abundant. The flesh is very
fine and of excellent quality.

Royal Ash-leaved Kidney Potato.

Tuber (natural size).

Belle of Fontenay Potato. — Tubers yellow, oblong or kidney-
shaped, abundant, medium-sized, smooth. The flesh is very yellow,
the shoot violet. In growth this variety resembles the Rcya!

Belle of Fontenay Potato.

Ash-leaved Potato, but the stems are shorter, and the leaves, which
are dark green, much twisted. The flowers are lilac-coloured and
seldom bear seed. A very early, productive variety, of good
quality and keeping well ; suitable also for growing under glass.

Belle of July Potato. — Tubers thick, almond-shaped, sometimes
curved like a kidney. The skin is yellow/smooth ; the flesh yellow;

570

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the shoot purple. The stems are rather thin, firm, erect ; foliage light.
It is not liable to disease. The flowers are not abundant, and of a
gray-lilac, and do not usually produce seed. An excellent Potato for

Belle of July Potato.

the French market, on account of its shape, earliness, and especially
the colour of its flesh. Comes into use at the same time as the
Yorkshire Hybrid Potato, to which it is superior. The tubers are
numerous and almost uniform in size, so there is no waste in lifting.

rf'

Nettle-leaved (Early Bedfont) Kidney Potato.

Nettle-leaved Potato (English synonyms : Early Bedfont
Kidney, or Button's Early Racehorse, Potato).— Tubers very like
those of the Early Marjolin Potato, but distinguished from them,

OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 571

as soon as they commence to sprout, by the pink colour of the shoots,
which are also hairy and covered with leaves; flesh yellow. Stems
slender, generally unbranched and spreading along the ground, from
20 in. to 2 ft. long, and slightly winged. Leaves rather far apart,
short, composed of a few oval-rounded, very much reticulated dark
green leaflets. Flowers white, opening early, in not very numerous
clusters, and sometimes producing seed. A very good variety for
an early crop, coming in almost as soon as the Early Marjolin and
quite as productive, but it keeps badly. It is very extensively
grown for an early crop in the open fields in the vicinity of Paris.

Prince of Wales Potato. — Tubers generally smooth, but some-
times knobby ; almond or pear-shaped ; flesh yellow, fine grained,
floury and light. Stems pretty vigorous, brown, mostly lying on

Prince ol Wales Potato.

the soil The foliage is reticulated, resembling that of the Royal
Ash-leaved Potato. The flowers are lilac-blue, and very seldom
seed. It is an excellent, very productive Potato, and of easy sale.
It is especially apt for producing fresh tubers in August and
September, but, like the Royal Ash-leaved, does not keep very well.
Yorkshire Hybrid Potato (jQuarantaine de la Halle or
Hollande). — Tubers medium-sized, seldom more than from 3^ to
4 in. long by 2 in. in diameter, oblong or almond-shaped ; skin
yellow, usually smooth ; eyes hardly visible ; flesh very yellow and
of excellent quality; shoot pink, slightly hairy, and slow in growth.
Stems half-erect, quadrangular, winged, sometimes branching, and
from 2 to over 2j ft. long. Leaves large and broad, composed of a
great number of leaflets of very variable dimensions : in the lower
leaves they are broad, flat, and almost glazed ; in the upper ones

572

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

they are narrower, reticulated, and curled. Flowers numerous,
violet-pink, a pretty large proportion of them producing seed. This
variety, in fact, is one of those which yield the most seed. In the
Paris market it ranks amongst the most highly esteemed kinds,
and has completely superseded the old Long Yellow Dutch Potato.

Yorkshire Hybrid Potato (natural size).

It is productive, of excellent quality, keeps very well, but, un-
fortunately, is very liable to be attacked by the disease. If planted
in April, new potatoes may be dug in the course of August.

The Brie Long Yellow Potato is a sub-variety of this kind,
from which it does not differ essentially. Its tubers are generally
a little longer and yellower, and ripen somewhat later, but that is
chiefly owing to the circumstance that they are grown in richer,
deeper, and colder soils than those in which the Yorkshire Hybrid

Princesse Potato (natural size).

is usually planted. The characteristic features of both forms — that
is, the colour and arrangement of the flowers, and especially the
appearance and growing period of the shoots— are, in fact, identical.
Princesse Potato. — Tuber very long, almost as deep as broad,
usually curved, and thicker at the top than at the bottom ; skin

OBLONG AND LONG YELLOW POTATOES 573

bright yellow, smooth ; eyes prominent rather than sunk ; flesh
very yellow ; shoot smooth, copper-coloured. Stems half-erect,
20 in. to 2 ft. long, quite green, thick, quadrangular, and winged.
Leaves long and abundant, composed of numerous leaflets, large
and small, of a pale green, slightly yellow, colour. Flowers very
large, lilac-red, not numerous, and seldom seeding. This variety is
particularly suitable for frying and for salads ; the flesh is very firm
and compact. The tubers ripen middling early. If planted in
April, new potatoes may be dug about the end of August.

Joseph Rigault Potato. — Tubers smooth, almond-shaped, skin
and flesh quite yellow ; the eyes very faintly marked ; the shoot
copper-coloured. The stems are thin and weak, generally lying
on the ground ; the foliage is light, pale green, and glazed. The
flowers are few and purple-red. A half-early variety, well shaped
and clean, with a fairly tough skin and of pleasant flavour. It has
all the qualities valued in a table Potato, and is altogether a garden
Potato, not being productive enough for market-gardening or
agricultural purposes.

III. ROUND RED VARIETIES

Red-skinned Flour-ball Potato (Synonyms : Garnet Chili,
or Brinkworth Challenger). — Tubers large, deeply marked with
hollows from the eyes being very much sunk, often 4 in. or more

Red-skinned Flour-ball Potato (natural size).

574 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

in diameter; skin usually wrinkled, pale red; flesh white; shoot
white, with the point and base red. Stems erect, quadrangular,
winged, of a coppery red, from about 2\ to over 3 ft. high, some-
times branched. Leaves medium-sized, composed almost solely
of large oval-acuminate leaflets, which are nearly always folded
gutter shape, and of a rather light, yellow-green colour. The main
leaf-stalk is rather deeply tinged with brown, especially towards
the extremity. Flowers very abundant, of a slightly lilac-rose
colour, in numerous clusters, and produced in succession for a long
time ; they very seldom Dear seed. This is one of the good

American Wonder Potato (natural size).

varieties for field culture, and, although its introduction only dates
back about twenty years, it has already taken an important place
among the varieties which are grown both for the manufacture of
starch and for table use. It uniformly yields pretty well, as it
suffers little from the disease, and is not too late in ripening, the
crop being usually dug in September in the vicinity of Paris. For
table use, the flesh is considered to have the defect of being too
white and somewhat deficient in fineness of flavour.

American Wonder Potato. — Tubers rounded, somewhat
irregular ; eyes deeply sunk ; skin rather smooth, violet-red ; flesh
white ; shoot red. Stems erect, quadrangular, vigorous growing.

ROUND RED POTATOES

575

Leaves broad, with dark green leaflets. Flowers numerous, in large
strong clusters, of a rather vivid violet-red colour. A half-late and
very productive variety, but of only ordinary quality.

Village Blacksmith Potato (Pomim de Terre Truffe}.— Tubers
roundish, medium-sized, regular, eyes not much sunk ; remarkable
for the peculiar appearance of the skin, which is thick, blackish,
and split like the skin of a truffle. Shoot violet-coloured ; flesh
white, light, very floury when cooked ; stems medium-sized, erect ;
foliage gray, reticulated ; flowers lilac, opening seldom. The
Blacksmith Potato is half-early, fairly productive, and of very good
quality. It is sure to be appreciated in countries where preference
is given to white-fleshed Potatoes.

IV. RED OR PINK OBLONG OR LONG VARIETIES

Institut de Beauvais Potato. — Tubers large, flattened, heart-
shaped; the skin yellow rather salmon-coloured, or tinged rose near
the eyes, which are marked by a superficial rumple. The flesh is

Institut de Beauvais Potato.

576

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

very pale, almost white; the shoot pink. The stems very vigorous,
quadrangular, thick, erect, with large, smooth, light green leaves. The
flowers are white, numerous, and produced in bunches. It is half-
early and fairly productive. It was raised from seed at the Institute
of Beauvais, Oise, and resembles so very closely the Idaho Potato
that one might suppose it had been raised from seed of the Idaho.
White Elephant Potato. — Tubers very large and usually very
long, flattened, and slightly notched ; in colour pale yellow, more
or less striped with pink, especially at the end. The flesh is white
and the stems very vigorous, tall, with broad vivid green leaves.
The flowers are white. A handsome late potato with remarkably
large tubers, specially good for feeding cattle, etc.

Early Rose Potato.

Early Rose Potato. — Tubers oblong, rather flattened, often
more pointed at the top than at the bottom ; eyes not very deeply
sunk, but having a rather prominent ridge or wrinkle below them ;
skin smooth, and of a pink colour slightly tinged with salmon
colour ; flesh white ; shoot pink, and germinating remarkably soon.
Stems medium-sized, erect, from 2 to 2 \ ft. high, rather thick at the
base, but speedily becoming more slender, sometimes branching,
and slightly tinged with coppery red, especially near the joints.
Leaves flat and smooth, composed almost solely of large oval-
acuminate leaflets, of uniform size, slightly glistening, and of a
light green colour. Flowers white, large, in not very numerous
clusters, and usually falling off abortive. A very productive and
early kind, the crop ripening in the month cf August. Flesh light
in texture, and extremely variable in quality, according to the kind
of soil in which the tubers are planted. These do not keep well,
as they have too great a tendency to sprout.

RED OR PINK OBLONG OR LONG POTATOES 577

Variegated-leaved Potato.— We have placed this variety next
to the Early Rose because the two resemble each other closely,
only differing in the golden-yellow striped foliage of this variety.
The tubers are the same shape and colour as those of the Early
Rose Potato, but less numerous and often smaller.

Cottager's Red Potato (Saucisse). — Tubers flattened, oblong,
usually very regular in shape, from about 3^ to 4 in. long, and
about 2 in. in diameter ; skin smooth, rather vivid red ; eyes faintly
marked, not sunk; flesh yellow; shoot pink. Stems tall, erect, very
vigorous, almost always branching, often 3 ft. or more in height,
quadrangular, slightly winged, and deeply tinged with brown red.
Leaves large, composed of very unequal, oval-round, much reticu-

Cottager's Red Potato (natural size).

lated leaflets of a dark, slightly gray and dull, green. Flowers pale
violet, in very numerous clusters usually intermingled with the
leaves, very rarely producing seed. One of the best kinds for
winter use, and most in request in Paris late in autumn. The flesh
is somewhat compact, but much more floury as the season advances.
This variety is rather free from the Potato-disease properly so called,
but it often suffers from the affection know in France as "la
Frisolee," which shrivels up both leaves and stems at the com-
mencement of their growth.

Robertson's Giant Kidney Potato (Rouge tongue de Hollande). —
Tubers very easily recognised, flattened kidney or almond shaped,
usually very long, with the base very narrow, and often curved into
a crook ; skin smooth, of a rather dark red slightly tinged with

37

578

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

violet ; flesh yellow, fine in texture, and of good quality ; shoot red.
Stems erect, stiff, more round than quadrangular, coppery red, and
from 2 to 2j ft. high. Leaves rather scanty, and pale gray-green.
In the lower leaves the leaflets are often joined together so as to form
one broad rounded leaf-blade ; the leaves at the top of the stem are
often curled and wavy, with pointed leaflets puckered at the edges.
Flowers, white, numerous, in rather strong clusters, and hardly ever
producing seed. The haulms or stalks of this variety are remark-
ably slight and slender, and do not cover the ground beneath them.
This is a very distinct potato ; it was formerly a great favourite,
but, at the present day it has been superseded by more productive
kinds, although of superior quality and an excellent keeper. If
planted in April, new potatoes may be dug about the end of
August. In the neighbourhood of Cherbourg, where it is very

Robertson's Giant Kidney Potato (natural size).

extensively grown, the mildness of the climate permits of its being
planted in December, the crop coming in in June or July.

Cardinal Potato. — Tubers medium-sized, oblong or almond-
shaped, very red ; flesh pale yellow, sometimes slightly streaked
with pink, firm and floury ; the shoot red. The stems are short,
thin, spreading, slightly violet, scarcely winged ; the leaves few,
small, light green ; leaflets of unequal sizes, oblong, rounded, not
much reticulated. The flowers are white, and fall off before they
open. A very productive variety, of excellent quality, the tubers
are regular in shape and keep well. A mid-season variety and a
healthy vigorous plant.

Pousse-debout Potato. — Tubers almost cylindrical, narrowed
at the ends, from about 3j to 4 in. long, and between I and 2 in. in
diameter ; skin pale red, rather smooth, eyes faintly marked and
prominent ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Stems vigorous growing,
erect, branching, generally short, seldom exceeding from 20 in. to
2 ft. in height, and tinged with coppery red, as are also the leaf-

RED OR PINK OBLONG OR LONG POTATOES 579

stalks. Leaves broad and large, dark green, composed of broad,
rounded, pointed leaflets. Flowers white, large, in rather numerous
and compact clusters ; they usually produce no seed. This is a

Cardinal Potato.

productive variety and keeps well. The flesh is more compact
than that of the preceding kind, and not so floury. The tubers
ripen in September.

Vitelotte Potato. — Tubers almost cylindrical, somewhat thicker
towards the top than at the bottom ; eyes numerous, each situated
at the bottom of a deep wrinkle ; skin red, rather smooth ; flesh
white, sometimes slightly zoned with red, especially at the end
farthest from the point of attachment to the underground stem ;

Pousse-debout Potato (natural size).

shoot red. Stems erect, very stiff, vigorous, quadrangular and
winged, tinged with brown, often branching, seldom more than
from 20 in. to 2 ft. high, very thick-set and well furnished with

58o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

leaves. Leaves short, of a slightly gray-green colour ; leaflets oval,
rounded, rather pointed, especially those towards the top of the
stem, very much reticulated, and often folded in two. Flowers
white, very seldom seeding. This variety is not so highly esteemed

Vitelotte Potato (natural size).

nowadays as it was formerly ; nevertheless it is of excellent quality,
rather productive, and keeps very well. It has the defect of being
difficult to peel, and much of the tuber is wasted in that operation.
The crop comes in in the course of September. The best variety
for salad.

V. VIOLET-COLOURED VARIETIES

Violet - coloured Quarantaine Potato. — Tubers flattened,
smooth, kidney-shaped or almond-shaped, often from 4 to 6 in.
long, and 2 in. or more in diameter at the thick end ; skin ex-

Violet-coloured Quarantaine Potato (natural size).

ceedingly fine and thin, violet, smooth ; flesh yellow ; shoot violet.
Stems rather slender, brown, usually drooping, and seldom ex-
ceeding from 2 to 2\ ft. in length. Leaves medium-sized or small,
with rounded, gray, very much reticulated leaflets. Flowers white,

VIOLET-COLOURED POTATOES

581

seldom showing, and never seeding. This is a mid-early variety,
not very productive, but of very good quality. It keeps well and
without sprouting, and is, perhaps, the best of all varieties for table
use in spring, becoming more floury and improving in quality as
the season advances.

Negresse Potato. — Tubers long, cylindrical ; eyes deeply set
like those of the Vitelotte : skin almost black, also flesh. Stems

weak, purple ; foliage curled and reticulated ; flowers white. A
variety not productive, but curious for the colour of its flesh.

Vicar of Laleham Potato.— Tubers very large, regular spherical
in shape, or slightly flattened, smooth, with eyes faintly marked.
The skin is purple, sometimes rather rough ; the flesh is white,
floury and light. The stems strong, but not long compared with
the great productiveness of the plant and the size of the tubers.
The flowers are white, scarce, and usually sterile. A fine half-early,
very productive Potato, succeeding best in light rich soils ; the
tubers not very numerous, but large and keeping quite well.

582

THE. VEGETABLE GARDEN

VI. VARIEGATED VARIETIES

Czarina Potato. — Tubers large, rounded or oblong, notched
with a more or less deep red blotch around the eyes. Flesh very

Czarina Potato.

pale yellow, shoot pink. Stems trailing, strong, leaves abundant,
with large leaflets ; flowers violet with white points, produced in
bunches. It is much grown for cattle-feeding and industrial

VARIEGATED POTATOES

583

purposes, being very productive, rich in starch, and keeping well.
It is besides of sufficiently good quality for the table.

La Bretonne Potato.— Tubers rounded or oblong, flattened
on one side. The skin rosy white, slightly red near the eyes.
The flesh is white and of good quality ; the stems tall and stout,

La Bretonne Potato.

with vigorous branches ; the foliage light gray-green in colour, and
the flowers white. This Potato, though not a cattle-feeding one,
is remarkable for the abundance of its yield. Its flesh is floury,
and it is one of the best among table Potatoes.

Peake's First Early Potato (Blanchard}.— Tubers round,
sometimes flattened, yellow, plentifully variegated with violet,
especially towards the top and around the eyes; skin smooth; flesh
yellow ; shoot violet-coloured. Stems stout, usually prostrate,
almost always branching, from about 2j to over 3 ft. long, tinged
with brown, especially towards the base. Leaves medium-sized,
composed of oval-acuminate, rather reticulated leaflets, light green.

5S4

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Flowers very numerous, large, lilac-blue, a large proportion of them
seeding. This Potato 'seeds, perhaps, more abundantly than any

other of the ordinary
kinds. It is a good,
early, productive variety,
and keeps well. The
flesh is floury and very
yellow. The crop may
be dug about the end
of July. The tubers are
never very large, but they
are very plentiful, and of
fairly uniform size.

Incomparable Potato.
— Tubers oval or almond-
shaped, smooth, with eyes
almost level ; the skin
is yellow, and usually
blotched with purple-red ;
the flesh is yellow, the
shoot violet. The stems

Peake's First Early Potato (natural size).

are thick and angular, trailing, and sometimes striped purple ;
the leaves are small, curled ; the leaflets oval-pointed, hairy and
folded over. The flowers are flax gray and often fertile. A
handsome Potato, with regularly shaped tubers. Exclusively a
cooking potato, half-early, but not productive.

Incomparable Potato.

POTATOES: FRENCH VARIETIES 585

In addition to those already described, some of the best known
or most noteworthy English and other varieties are : —

I. FRENCH VARIETIES

Achille Lemon. — Tubers slender and elongated, usually curved,
and much narrower at one end than at the other ; skin very smooth,
golden-yellow, marked with broad dark violet spots, especially at
the end of the tuber and near the eyes, which are very slightly
sunk ; flesh deep yellow, rather firm, and very fine. A half-early,
moderately productive variety.

Artichaut Jaime. — Tubers long, slender, almost cylindrical,
very much notched;, and like those of the Vitelotte Potato, only that
they are yellow instead of red. A floury, half-late variety, now
almost gone out of cultivation.

Aspasie. — A vigorous-growing late variety. Tubers regular,
oblong, large, flattened ; skin coppery pink ; flesh white, very rich
in starch.

Belle Augustine.— Tubers pale yellow, oblong, flattened,
usually somewhat kidney-shaped ; skin smooth ; eyes faintly
marked ; flesh yellow ; shoot violet-coloured. A rather dwarf,
early, and productive kind, coming in eight or ten days earlier than
the Yorkshire Hybrid Potato. It is grown to some extent in the
vicinity of Paris for the supply of new potatoes.

Belle de Vincennes. — Tubers oblong, flattened, smooth, almost
without eyes, remarkably handsome, and resembling the Snowflake
Potato in appearance ; shoot violet-coloured. Stems stout, tinged
with brown, usually twisted ; leaves broad, numerous, and dark
green ; flowers violet, in rather crowded clusters. This variety
seeds abundantly.

Bonne Wilhelmine. — Tuber small, round, bright yellow, smooth;
eyes but little marked ; flesh very yellow ; shoot purple.

Brandale. — Tubers yellow, long, almond-shaped ; flesh butter-
yellow ; shoot violet. Stems short, spreading, brown or violet ;
leaves small, with small dark green leaflets, much reticulated ;
flowers white. An early variety much grown in Southern
France.

Caillaud. — Tubers round, medium-sized or large, yellow,
slightly tinted with salmon colour ; shoot pink ; skin usually
wrinkled ; flowers white. A stout-growing, productive, half-late
variety, very good for field culture, and resembling the Jeance
Potato except in the flowers, but not so productive as that
variety.

Criandernagor.— Productive half-late variety. Tubers slightly
elongated, somewhat notched, black purple ; flesh strongly tinged
with violet, but very fine and of excellent quality ; shoot violet.

586 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Chardon. — Tuber very large, round, sometimes long ; eyes
much sunk ; skin smooth, pale yellow ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot
pink.

Cornice d'Amiens.— A very handsome, small, early kind, with
round, small, or medium-sized tubers, of a yellow colour variegated

with pink ; shoot pink. Flowers
white. A very early, but not
very productive variety, which
might be suitable for forcing.

Des Cordillieres. — Tubers
yellow, round, very smooth,
small, and very numerous ; flesh
yellow ; shoot violet-coloured.
The plant is of tufty growth,
with numerous stems. Foliage
scanty. A very distinct kind,
but of no great account for
kitchen-garden culture.

Chardon Potato. ,-v & • • «« T- i

Descroizilles. — Tubers

rounded or slightly oblong, somewhat irregular in shape ; eyes
rather deeply sunk ; skin pink or very pale red, slightly wrinkled ;
flesh yellow ; flowers white. A late variety, rather deficient in
productiveness, but of good quality.

Excellente Naine. — A very handsome and good variety, re-
sembling the earliest forms of the Pomme de Terre Roy ale. The
stems are hardly longer than those of the Marjolin Potato, for which
this variety might be substituted in frame culture, being quite as
productive and quite as early.

Grosse Jaune Deuxieme Hative. — This Potato is rather exten-
sively grown in the fields in the vicinity of Paris. It is, properly
speaking, only a sub-variety of the Shaw, or Regent, Potato,
with somewhat larger tubers, and ripening from eight to ten days
later.

Hative de Bourbon-Lancy. — Tubers medium-sized, quite round
or very slightly flattened, variegated with yellow and violet colour
disposed in bands rather than in round marblings. A moderately
vigorous early-ripening variety, with lilac flowers, which are
generally abortive.

Jaune Longue de Hollande. — Formerly the most extensively
grown and the most highly esteemed Potato for table use ; since the
appearance of the Potato-disease it has been almost entirely super-
seded by the Quarantaine de Noisy Potato and its sub-varieties.
The following were its characteristics : Tubers long, almost always
curved, and much thicker at one end than at the other ; skin
grayish yellow, slightly wrinkled ; flesh yellow, very floury, and
very fine in texture ; shoot pink. Stems rather short, twisted ;

POTATOES: FRENCH VARIETIES 587

leaves curled and reticulated ; flowers lilac-red. This is a rather
late kind, and never very productive.

Jaime Ronde Hative de Provence (Round Early Provence). —
Tubers large, round, light yellow, regular in shape, slightly
notched ; flesh very light yellow ; shoot violet. Stem thick,
vigorous, angular, spreading ; leaves very large, with slightly
reticulated leaflets ; flowers white. An early and very productive
Potato, well suited for export.

De Malte. — Tubers very large, round ; eyes very deeply sunk,
and rather like those of the Jeance Potato ; shoot pink. Stems
usually trailing on the ground, green, and from about 2\ to over
3 ft. in length ; leaves clear green, curled, and reticulated. The
flowers are constantly abortive.

Marceau. — Remarkable for the great size of its tubers which are
flattened, oblong ; skin pale yellow, somewhat rough ; flesh yellow ;
shoot violet.

M. Eiffel. — Early and very productive, in shape resembles the
Cottager's Red Potato,
but is rather longer and
pale yellow ; flesh white ;
shoot pink. Stems rather
short ; leaves large,
smooth, spreading.

Naine Hative.—
Tubers small or medium-
sized, round ; eyes faintly
marked ; skin yellow,
rather smooth ; shoot M* Elffel Potat0'

violet-coloured ; flesh yellow. Flowers lilac. Stem short and
weak, seldom exceeding from 16 to 20 in. in length. An early
variety, but a very poor cropper.

Noisette Sainville.— A miniature Potato, with a very appro-
priate name, as the size of the tubers is only about that of a
hazel-nut (noisette}, very rarely exceeding that of a good-sized
almond. They are ovoid and slightly flattened in shape, of a
grayish yellow colour, and with a slightly wrinkled skin. The
eyes are hardly visible ; shoot violet-coloured. Stems very
small and weak ; leaves gray ; flowers white. This variety
has been recommended on account of the fine quality of the
flesh of the tubers, but its produce is so trifling that it is hardly
worth growing.

Oblongue de Malabry.— Tubers oval, pale yellow, not notched ;
flesh white ; shoot white, faintly tinged with violet colour. A very
productive and moderately early variety.

Pasteur. — Tubers oblong, very smooth, elongated ; flesh yellow,
fine and floury ; shoot violet-coloured ; ripens mid-season.

588

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Patraque Blanche.— An exceedingly productive kind, with
grayish white, slightly pink-tinted tubers, which are oblong in
shape, squarish at both ends, and tolerably notched ; flesh white ;

shoot pink. Stems
very long and very
vigorous growing ;
leaves gray ; flowers
pink, numerous. This
variety produces a
considerable number of
tubers of medium size.
It is a rather late kind,
and is more grown for
Pasteur Potato. feeding cattle than for

table use.

Quarantaine a Tete Rose. — Tubers oblong or almond-
shaped ; skin smooth, yellow, variegated with red near the eyes,
especially at the end of the tuber ; flesh yellow. Stems short,
erect ; leaves grayish. A half-late and rather productive variety.
When grown in a light soil, the tubers of this variety have an
extremely handsome and quite distinct appearance.

Reine Blanche. — A handsome, rather late variety. Tubers
medium-sized, or large, very round, white, with a red spot around
each of the eyes, which are rather deeply sunk ; shoot pink. Stems
erect, vigorous growing ; leaves abundant, dark coloured ; flowers
reddish violet, in broad clusters. The tubers of this variety have a
very handsome appearance, but are of only middling quality.

Reine de Mai. — Tubers oblong or almond-shaped, flattened,
very smooth, and nearly white ; shoot pink. Stem rather slender
and bare of leaves ; flowers white. This is an early variety, and
very handsome when well grown, but it is exceedingly delicate, and
the tubers are very often spotted.

Rickmaker. — A very productive, half-late Potato, with oblong,
deeply notched, pale yellow
tubers and pink shoot ;
stems long and trailing.
Contains a great deal of
.starch.

Rognon Rose (Belgian
Kidney Potato]. — Tubers
flattened, usually almond
or kidney - shaped, very
smooth ; skin light pink,
yellowish; eyes faintly
marked ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink,
mid-season, and keeping well.

Rognon Rose Potato.

A productive variety, ripening

POTATOES: FRENCH VARIETIES 589

Rohan. — Very closely allied to the Patraque Blanche Potato,
from which it is only distinguished by its tubers being more
reddish coloured. It is a productive kind, and well adapted for
field culture.

Rosee de Conflans (Rosace de Villiers-le-Bet).—rI\&>&s long,
almost cylindrical, very slightly notched, usually pink-coloured
towards the top and salmon-tinted yellow at the bottom ; shoot
pink. Stems rather short and stiff ; leaves numerous, dark
coloured; flowers white. A half-late and rather productive kind.
The flesh of the tubers is yellow, firm, and not easily bruised.

Rosette. — A handsome variety, a seedling of the Early Rose.
Tubers flattened, rounded, dark red,
smooth ; flesh white, light. A half-early
variety.

Rouge Ronde de Strasbourg
( Wery). — Tubers medium-sized ; skin
usually somewhat wrinkled and of a
rather deep red colour ; shoot red ; flesh
yellow. Stems very stiff and strong,
brown ; leaves dark green ; flowers reddish
lilac. A good common variety, pro- Rosette Potato,

ductive, and coming in in mid-season.

Sainte - Helene. — Tubers handsome, yellow, very smooth,
oblong, flattened, and slightly kidney-shaped ; eyes very faintly
marked ; flesh yellow. Stems rather short and pliant ; leaves
broad, dark green ; flowers violet, not very numerous, but very
large. Tubers ripen half-early. A fine kitchen-garden variety.

Saint-Germain. — A handsome red Potato, rounded, flattened ;
flesh yellow. Flowers small, pinkish.

Saucisse Blanche. — In shape this variety resembles the
Cottager's Red Potato, but the tubers are white or pale yellow, with
red blotches round the eyes and at both ends ; flesh yellow ; eyes
faintly marked ; shoot pink.

Tanguy. — This kind is rather extensively grown in Brittany.
It comes very near the Segonzac or Saint-Jean Potato, but its
tubers are of a paler yellow and rounder, its stems are thicker, and
its leaves are of a paler green. When grown in the sandy or
granitic soils of the coasts of Brittany, the tubers are very fine and
floury. Large quantities of them are exported to England.

Tardive d'Irlande. — Tubers rounded or oblong, rather notched,
and of a yellow colour variegated with red ; flesh white ; shoot
pink. Stems scanty ; leaves slightly gray ; flowers lilac, small.
A late variety and a poor cropper. Its chief merit is that the
tubers will keep for a long time without sprouting.

Truffe d'Aout. — Tubers medium-sized, rounded, bright red ;
eyes moderately sunk ; flesh yellow ; shoot red. Stems erect,

590 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

rather stiff ; leaves dark gray-green ; flowers white. A mid-
season variety, productive, and, many years ago, well known and
highly esteemed.

Violette {Hundred-fold Potato). — A very old and productive
variety, grown for about a century, and occasionally comes still to
the Paris market. Tubers round and often squared at both ends,
notched, eyes deeply sunk ; skin deep purple ; flesh yellow ; shoot
violet.

Xavier (Patte Blanche]. — Tubers oblong, almost cylindrical, pale
pink, slightly notched ; flesh yellow-white ; shoot pink. Stems

Violette (Hundred-fold) Potato. De Zelande (Red Regent) Potato.

rather long ; leaves gray ; flowers white. This variety is worthy
of recommendation on account of its good quality, but it is very
liable to be attacked by the disease.

Yam, or Igname. — Like the preceding variety, this one also
suffers greatly from the disease, and it is difficult now to meet with
it in a perfectly healthy and vigorous condition. The tubers are
oblong, rather large, almost cylindrical, and slightly notched ; skin
pale red, smooth ; shoot red.

De Zelande (Red Regent or Gosforth Seedling}. — An excellent
half-late variety, keeping well. Tubers round, medium-sized ; skin
bright red, slightly rough ; eyes faintly marked ; flesh yellow ;
shoot red.

II. ENGLISH VARIETIES

Alice Fenn. — Tubers oblong, kidney-shaped, very regular ;
skin yellow, smooth ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot violet. Stems very
scanty, slender and pliant ; leaves small and few ; flowers violet.
A handsome, rather early, but not very productive kind.

Bovinia. — Tubers very large, long, broad, flattened, rather
deeply notched, and yellow variegated with red, especially towards
the top and near the eyes ; flesh yellow-white. Stems vigorous
growing ; leaves large. A very late variety, producing tubers
which sometimes weigh over two pounds each, but are not very

POTATOES: ENGLISH VARIETIES 59*

•numerous. The flesh is watery and of only middling quality. The
variety is more curious than useful.

Britannia. — Tuber yellow, long ; flesh yellow ; shoot white.
Resembles very much the Royal Ash-leaf Potato.

Coldstream, or Hogg's Coldstream. — Tubers round, small or
medium-sized; skin and flesh yellow ; flowers and shoot violet.
Stems small and pliant, generally prostrate ; leaves rounded,
grayish green. A very good, hardy and early kind, but only
moderately productive.

Dalmahoy. — Tubers round, small or medium-sized, white ; eyes
rather well marked, but not very deeply sunk ; shoot violet. Stems
erect, short, seldom exceeding I ft. in height ; leaves gray, rather
crumpled, with large pointed leaflets. The flowers fall off without
opening. A selected form of the Regent.

Dawe's Matchless (Synonyms : Excelsior Kidney, Webb's Im-
perial, Early Bryanstone Kidney, Manning's Kidney, England's
Fair Beauty, Chagford Kidney, Wormley Kidney, Champion
Kidney). — A very fine and productive mid-season Potato. Tubers
remarkably handsome, oblong, sometimes flattened, sometimes
kidney-shaped, exceedingly smooth, nearly white, and often
measuring 5 or 6 in. in length, by 2 in. or more in diameter ; eyes
hardly marked ; flesh white ; shoot violet. Stems rather vigorous,
erect ; leaves rounded, reticulated, and of an almost black-green
colour ; flowers white. This variety is not much grown in France,
where we cultivated it for some time by mistake under the name of
P. Confederee. The true P. Confe'deree (a synonym for P. Marceau\
however, has violet-coloured flowers and broader and yellower
tubers.

The Dean. — Tubers round or slightly flattened, skin dark
purple, and wrinkled ; flesh yellow ; shoot violet. A half-late,
fairly productive variety, remarkable for the regular shape and
dark colour of its tubers.

Early Emperor Napoleon. — Tubers almost spherical or
slightly flattened, and entirely devoid of eyes ; skin slightly
wrinkled, red, and, in exceptional cases, variegated with yellow ;
shoot red ; flesh yellow-white. Stems slender, usually trailing
on the ground ; leaves exceedingly narrow and gray ; flowers
red, in thin clusters. A half-early and not very productive kind,
but remarkable for the handsome appearance and regular shape
of the tubers.

Early June (Kerr). — Tuber flat, almond-shaped, yellow, smooth ;
shoot white ; flesh yellow. A sub-variety of the Royal Ash-leaved
Potato.

Early May Queen. — Tubers small, round, red, rough-skinned ;
eyes well marked ; flesh white ; shoot white. Resembles Early
Rose.

592 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Puritan. — Tubers yellow, smooth ; eyes numerous, broad,
not much sunk but well marked ; flesh white ; shoot white.
Leaves light green, rather small, slightly spoon-shaped.

Perm's Early Market. — Tubers round, small, or medium-sized
rather flattened ; skin yellow, smooth ; eyes not much sunk ; shoot
pink ; flesh nearly white. Stems of very scanty growth, weak, and
pliant ; leaves pale green ; flowers white, not numerous. This
excellent small variety is one of the earliest of all the Round
Yellow Potatoes, and is remarkable for the small size of its
stems.

The Garton. — Tubers yellow, round, smooth ; eyes very few ;
shoot and flesh white. Very like the Van der Veer Potato.

Gem (Kerr). — Tubers yellow, round ; eyes few, lightly notched ;
flesh white ; shoot violet-coloured.

General Roberts (Kerr). — Tubers yellow, long, flattened ; eyes
few, not notched ; flesh white ; shoot copper-pink. A late variety,
vigorous. Stem copper-coloured, erect ; flowers reddish lilac,
numerous, in large erect clusters.

Giant Reading". — Tubers large, oblong or kidney-shaped,
yellow, smooth ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems numerous,
vigorous, short, spreading, slightly angular ; leaves abundant
long, with short petioles ; leaflets medium-sized, oval or oblong, very
hairy, often folded ; flowers falling off. This variety bears some
resemblance to the Magnum Bonum, but is more productive. It is
not liable to disease, and keeps well.

Golden Eagle and Radstock Beauty. — It is very difficult to
distinguish these two varieties from each other, and they are
probably identical. The tubers are yellow, variegated with red,
round, and slightly flattened in one part ; skin very smooth and
having a very pretty and very peculiar appearance ; shoot red.
Stems of moderate height ; leaves dark green ; flowers red.
Tubers rather late to ripen and moderately productive.

Grampian. — This variety very much resembles the Early
Emperor Potato, described above, but has somewhat darker and
more numerous leaves and redder flowers. The tubers do not
exhibit any well-marked difference. The Grampian Potato is
distinguished by the remarkably regular and symmetrical shape of
the tubers, which are spherical or flattened, but always rounded in
outline. They are almost entirely devoid of eyes and are of a fine
red colour ; they are also hardy and rather productive, ripen half-
late, and keep very well.

Harbinger (Suttori). — Small, round, distinct tuber ; shoot red.
Leaves resembling those of Sharpe's Victor Potato, or even larger.

International Kidney.— A half-late variety, tuber almond-
shape, smooth, well shaped and often very large, almost white ;
flesh very pale yellow ; shoot violet.

POTATOES: ENGLISH VARIETIES

593

International Potato.

King of Flukes {Meldrum Conqueror}. — Tubers oblong, often
rather short, slightly flattened ; skin golden-yellow ; eyes faintly
marked ; flesh very
yellow, fine, and of
excellent flavour;
shoot violet. Fairly
productive, ripens
mid-season.

Lady Webster.
— Tubers round, very
smooth, somewhat
flattened, yellow, and
rather plentifully
variegated with red ;
shoots red. Stems
short and drooping,
green ; leaves not numerous, with very glistening leaflets, resembling
those of the Early Marjolin Potato.

Leda (Kerf). — Tubers oblong, pale red ; eyes very few, slightly
notched ; flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Vigorous, erect stems.
Flowers small, white. Resembles in habit the Red Regent, and its
tubers are those of the Early Rose.

Lord of the Isles (Kerr). — Tubers yellow, oblong ; eyes few,
not notched; flesh white; shoot pink. Very like Early Rose in its
vegetation, but the leaves are smooth and more erect. Flowers white.

Milky White. — Tubers white, slightly salmon tinted, very
smooth, flat in one part, oblong, and without eyes or notches ;
shoot pink. Stems of scanty growth ; leaves slight, pale green ;
flowers white. A handsome half-early variety, producing verv
clean-skinned tubers ; but several American varieties have a still
finer appearance, and are, at the
same time, more productive.

King of Flukes Potato.

Model Potato.

Model. — Tuber pale yellow, very regularly rounded, slightly
flattened ; eyes faintly marked ; skin smooth or rough, according
to the soil ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot violet.

38

594 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Mona's Pride. — A variety very closely resembling the Early
Marjolin Potato in its habit of growth, but differing entirely from it
in the shape of the tuber, which is very short, or even round and
flat. It is also somewhat later and somewhat more productive
than the Marjolin Potato.

Our Boys (Kerr). — Tubers yellow, long, kidney-shaped ; eyes
few, slightly notched ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot violet. Stems long
and strong, slightly copper-coloured ; flowers white, in large
clusters. Ripens late.

Paterson's Victoria. — A half-early variety, very floury, keeping
perfectly, disease resisting. Tubers oblong or rounded, flattened ;
eyes faintly marked ; skin salmon-yellow ; flesh yellow ; shoot
violet.

Porter's Excelsior. — One of the most perfect Potatoes as
regards the shape of the tubers, which are rounded, yet
flattened as pebbles are, being nearly twice as broad as they are
thick ; skin yellow, smooth ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot pink. Stems
trailing on the ground ; leaves not numerous, dark green ; flowers
white. This is a half-late variety ; it is not very productive, and its
chief merit consists in the handsome appearance of the tubers.

Professor (Kerr).— Tubers red, elongated, shaped like those
of Early Rose ; eyes numerous, notched ; flesh white ; shoot red.
Stems strong, coppery, almost erect. Flowers pink, numerous,
seeding abundantly.

Purple Ash-leaved Kidney (Synonyms : Jersey Purple, Black
Kidney, Black Prince, Select Blue Ash-leaf, or Paterson's Long
Blue). — Tubers long or very long, flattened, more or less kidney-
shaped, and very smooth ; skin dark violet colour, even, without
wrinkles or hollows around the eyes. Stems rather slender and

brown ; leaves not numerous and of a
dark gray-green colour ; flowers lilac.
A rather early kind, tolerably pro-
ductive, and of good quality. Many
people do not like the dark violet
colour of the tubers.

Reading Russet. — Productive,
ripening mid-season. Tubers slightly
elongated, thick, eyes faintly marked ;
skin somewhat rough, grayish red ;
Reading Russet Potato. flesh pale yellow ; shoot red.

Rector of Woodstock.— Tubers

very regular in shape, round, but slightly flattened ; skin somewhat
wrinkled, grayish white, faintly tinged with yellow ; eyes hardly
marked ; flesh white, very floury, and fine flavoured ; shoot
violet-coloured. Stems very short ; leaves slight, slender, and
few ; flowers violet, rarely produced. This small variety is only

POTATOES: ENGLISH VARIETIES 595

moderately productive, but the tubers are of fine quality and
exceptionally handsome. It is one of the best varieties raised
by Mr. R. Fenn.

Rentpayer. — Tubers yellow, usually round, sometimes long ;
eyes few, not notched ; flesh white. A good sub-variety of
Magnum Bonum.

Saint Patrick. — A productive and vigorous kind. Tubers
white or pale yellow, oblong, not flattened, and rather irregular in
shape ; flesh white.

Schoolmaster. — Tubers large, round, generally even and regular
in shape ; skin rough, white ; very handsome, and of first-rate
quality ; shoot pink. Flowers white. Great cropper ; one of the
best Potatoes grown.

Scotch Blue.— Tubers rounded, flattened in one part, smooth ;
eyes faintly marked ; skin thin, and of a dark, almost blackish
violet colour ; flesh white ; shoot dark violet. Stems rather
short, but vigorous growing ; leaves
rather broad, gray ; flowers violet-
coloured. A half-late, rather pro-
ductive, and very hardy variety, of
fine quality.

Standard.— This variety is re-
commended for its handsome smooth
white tubers and the delicate flavour
of the flesh, which is white and
floury. It is a pretty early and
very productive kind, and is highly
esteemed for table use. Standard Potato.

Superb (Kerr). — Tubers yellow,

round ; eyes numerous, slightly notched ; flesh very white ; shoot
pink.

Turner's Union. — Tubers yellow, round, small or medium-sized,
and pretty regular in shape ; eyes somewhat sunk ; flesh pale
yellow ; shoot yellowish white, with a violet-coloured point. Stems
of scanty growth. Leaves rather large, but not numerous. Flowers
lilac, usually abortive. A good small-sized early variety, but there
are many others of much more account.

White Emperor. — A rather vigorous but short-stemmed variety.
Tubers very smooth, nearly white, round, and slightly flattened,
very like those of the Model and Schoolmaster Potatoes ; shoot
lilac. Leaves reticulated, and dull green.

Wonderful Red Kidney. — A half-early variety. Tubers
flattened, elongated, or somewhat kidney-shaped ; skin red, very
smooth ; eyes faintly marked ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot red.

Woodstock Kidney. — A handsome vigorous variety. Tubers
white, oblong, smooth, and well shaped ; shoot violet. Stems stout

596 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

and brown. Leaves broad, and light green. Flowers violet, in
strong clusters, and seeding abundantly. Somewhat subject to
disease.

Wormleighton Seedling.— A half-late variety with medium-
sized stems and very large smooth almond-shaped tubers, handsome
in appearance, but only fair in quality. *

III. AMERICAN VARIETIES

For the last thirty years the Americans have been active
in sowing Potato-seed for raising new varieties, and now rival the
English raisers in the success which has attended their efforts. A
great number of their new varieties — such as the Early Rose,
Snowflake, etc. — were at once adopted by Potato-growers in
Europe as well as in America. These varieties have already been
described by us as of the first rank, and we shall now mention
some others, which, perhaps, only require to be better known in
order to be as well appreciated.

Adirondack. — A vigorous mid-season variety. Tubers round
or slightly flattened, smooth, pale red ; flesh white ; shoot pink.
Stems erect ; leaves broad ; flowers reddish violet.

Alpha. — An early variety. Tubers white, slightly elongated,
somewhat flattened ; stems short ; leaves fairly large, but scanty.

Bresee's Peerless. — Tubers handsome, very much flattened,
almost as broad as long, oblong or sometimes heart-shaped, and
almost always notched at the bottom ; skin and flesh white ; shoot
pink. Leaves pale green, broad, and somewhat curled ; flowers
white. A half-early and exceedingly productive variety.

Bresee's Prolific. — In productiveness and quality comparable
to Early Rose. The tubers are flattened, oblong, sometimes almost
square at both ends ; skin smooth, pale yellow more or less tinged
with salmon-red, flesh white ; eyes faintly marked ; shoot pink.

Brownell's Beauty. — Tubers oblong, rather flattened, and
usually very broad ; skin somewhat wrinkled, and a dark, slightly
vinous, red ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems erect and vigorous ;
leaves rather broad, and yellowish green ; flowers lilac-red. A
very productive mid-season variety, of great merit. The tubers are
very handsome and generally very regular in shape.

Calico. — Productive, half-late. Tuber rounded or oblong, but
always flattened, skin very smooth, bright yellow, with broad red
stripes ; eyes scarcely marked, flesh pale yellow ; shoot red.

Centennial. — Tubers bright red, spherical or slightly flattened,
and very smooth ; eyes hardly marked ; shoot red. Stems of
medium size ; leaves broad, pale green ; flowers reddish. A
half-early and rather productive variety. The tubers keep well for
an American kind.

* Select List of Varieties, see pp. 770, 771.

POTATOES: AMERICAN VARIETIES 597

Compton's Surprise. — A vigorous half-early variety ; tubers
purple, oblong, resembling those of Early Rose, except that they
are purple ; flowers white.

Early Cottage. — A very productive variety. Tubers large or
very large, rounded, and thick ; eyes rather deeply sunk ; skin
often wrinkled, and very pale yellow ; flesh white. Stems rather
scanty in growth compared with the weight of the crop of tubers ;
leaves gray-green and rather curled ; flowers lilac, usually abortive.

Early Goodrich. — Tubers oblong, thick, not much flattened,
often almost pointed at the top ; flesh and skin white ; shoot pink.
Leaves of a very light green, almost yellow ; flowers white. A hand-
some and productive variety, but too often attacked by the disease.

Early Ohio. — Tubers pink, smooth, oblong ; eyes very faintly
marked ; shoot red. Stems erect, stiff, slightly tinged with copper
colour ; leaves very broad, flat, with extremely large leaflets of a
light and grayish green. This variety does not flower.

Eureka. — Tubers long, rather flattened, often square at the
ends, and sometimes slightly notched ; skin white, hardly yellow,
and very slightly wrinkled ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems of
scanty growth ; leaves of a very light green ; flowers white. A
very productive and rather early variety. The tubers are rather
irregular in shape, and sometimes quite nondescript in this respect.

Extra Early Vermont. — There is only an exceedingly slight
shade of difference between this Potato and the Early Rose, so
that they are often mistaken one for the other. The tuber of the
Extra Early Vermont is a little broader and flatter, and ripens two
or three days earlier than that of the Early Rose.

King of the Earlies. — Tubers somewhat angular or irregular
in shape, rounded and slightly flattened in their general outline,
and with the eyes rather deeply sunk ; skin smooth, but dull in
hue, of a salmon-tinted and grayish pink colour ; flesh white and
floury ; shoot pink. Stems of very scanty growth ; leaves broad,
of a pale grayish green, withering very early, without any flowers.
This is really one of the earliest of all Potatoes.

Late Rose. — In many respects this variety is very like the
Early Rose, and even the difference in earliness which exists
between the two varieties does not exceed ten days. The Late
Rose, however, is distinguished by the greater size of its tubers,
which, on the other hand, are not so numerous as those of the
Early Rose. They are also of a purer pink, and not so much
tinged with salmon colour.

Manhattan. — Tubers round, slightly flattened, and variegated
with yellow and violet colour ; shoot pink, spotted with violet.
Stems short and stiff, about 2 ft. high ; leaves rather abundant,
broad, rounded, gray-green, much folded and reticulated ; flowers
generally wanting.

598 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Peach-blow. — Tubers rounded, very smooth, and of a fine
white colour, slightly tinged with pink around the eyes ; shoot
pink. Stems erect, stiff, vigorous, and spotted with brown ; leaves
numerous, rather slender, and light green, with oval-acute leaflets ;
flowers numerous, violet-red, hardly ever producing seed. There
is a sub-variety, named the White Peach-blow, in which the eyes
are not tinged with pink.

Queen of the Valley. — Tubers very handsome, large, oblong,
slightly flattened, and very smooth ; eyes few and faintly marked ;
skin very pale red ; shoot pink. The tubers are very like those of
Brownell's Beauty, but are not so dark coloured.

Ruby. — Tubers oblong, slightly flattened, smooth, regular in
shape, and of a bright red colour ; flesh white. Stems of medium
size, and rather vigorous growing ; leaves of a pale and somewhat
grayish green colour. A half-late variety.

Triumph. — Tubers round and of a rather bright-red colour ;
eyes slightly marked and not very deeply sunk ; shoot pink. A
half-early and productive variety.

Willard (Red Fluke}. — Tubers oblong or pear-shaped, almost
pointed at the top and thick at the bottom ; skin rather smooth,
bright red, sometimes marbled with yellow ; shoot pink. Stems
erect and stiff ; leaves light green ; flowers lilac-red. A very
distinct and rather handsome variety, but very subject to be
attacked by the disease.

IV. GERMAN VARIETIES

Abdul Hamid (Paulseri). — Tubers yellow, oblong ; eyes few
and but little notched ; flesh yellow. A half-late variety, with
short thick stems. Leaves crimped ; flowers lilac.

Achilles. — Tubers large, rounded ; eyes somewhat sunk. Stems
very vigorous, over 3 ft. high, quadrangular, winged, and spotted
with brown ; leaves numerous, but small, very much reticulated,
curled, and of a blackish green colour ; flowers lilac, in numerous
clusters, and yielding seed.

Alkohol. — Tubers round, somewhat flattened ; eyes rather
numerous and well marked. Stems about 2\ ft. high, stout, green,
quadrangular, and erect ; leaves broad, clear green, and somewhat
crimped ; flowers white, abortive.

Aurora. — Tubers oval, flattened ; eyes numerous and pretty
well marked. Stems thick, copper-coloured, often trailing, and
about 2 ft. 8 in. long ; leaves very abundant, flat, and of a clear,
slightly grayish, green ; flowers white, abortive.

The four preceding varieties were raised by Mr. Paulsen, who
has devoted his attention to the production of new varieties of

POTATOES: GERMAN VARIETIES 599

Potatoes in Germany, as Mr. Fenn and Mr. Kerr have in England,
and Mr. Bresee in America.

Biscuit. — A vigorous and rather productive variety. Tubers
small and very numerous, yellow, rounded, and slightly notched ;
shoot pink. Stems rather long and slender ; leaves slight, pale
green. Ripens half-early.

Bismarck. — Much extolled some years ago ; but seldom grown
now ; very rich in starch, but a poor cropper. Tubers small,
round, red ; skin much split. Stems brown ; leaves dark green.

Blaue Riesen.— Tubers very large, oblong, dark purple, often
knobby ; flesh very white ; shoot violet. Stems strong and very
long, usually spreading, and violet ; leaves small, dull green ;
leaflets small, oval-pointed, hairy and more or less reticulated ;
flowers violet striped white, falling without seeding. A field
Potato, one of the few sorts that are unfit for the table. It is
largely grown for starch, but its production is liable to variations,
for which reason growers now prefer sorts of the Imperator type.

Euphyllos. — Tubers white or faint pink, round or oblong ; eyes
moderately sunk. A vigorous, productive, half-late variety, with
large fine leaves, smooth, even, and light green, whence the variety
derives its name. It is one of the varieties raised by M. Paulsen.

Feinste kleine weisse Mandel. — Tubers ovoid, small, very
numerous, nearly white, smooth, and without eyes ; shoot violet.
Stems large ; flowers white. The quality of the tubers is good,
but they are rather small sized.

Friihe blaue Rosen-. — Tubers round, pale red, slightly striped
purple ; eyes few, faintly notched ; flesh white. Leaves small, quite
green ; flowers white. A variety for field culture.

Friihe rothe Markische. — A good, hardy, and productive
field variety. Tubers red, nearly round, and rather smooth ; shoot
red ; flesh yellow. Stems vigorous, often trailing ; leaves gray-
green ; flowers red. Ripens half-late.

Gelbe Rose (Paulsen). — Tubers round, slightly tinged with
pink ; flesh white, shoot pink ; but little grown now.

Globus (Richter). — Late, productive, and vigorous. Tubers
yellow, large, round, sometimes irregular in shape ; eyes numerous,
deeply sunk ; flesh yellow.

Hannibal (Paulsen). — Productive, rather late, suitable for field
culture. Tubers round, slightly flattened ; skin thin, pink, coloured
more deeply round the eyes ; flesh white ; flowers white.

Hermann (Paulsen}. — A late, productive variety, for field
culture. Tubers round, medium-sized, somewhat knobby ; eyes
pretty deeply sunk ; shoot violet-coloured.

Juno (Paulsen). — Tubers flattened, oval or slightly square at the
ends ; skin pinkish white, more deeply coloured around the eyes and
at the ends ; flesh yellowish white ; shoot pink. For field culture.

6oo THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Kaiser- Kartoffel. —A fine, vigorous, and rather early kind,
resembling certain American varieties, especially Bresee's Prolific ;
it is, however, somewhat later and produces larger tubers. In habit

of growth it is much
the same.

Karlder Grosse. —
Tubers yellow, round ;
eyes numerous,
notched. Flesh and
flowers white.

Kleopatra (Paul-
sen}. — Tubers small,
flattened, red ; eyes
faintly marked, flesh
white. Flowers lilac-

JunoPotata ^Kopsell's friihe

weisse Rosen-Kartoffel. — This variety very much resembles
Bresee's Prolific, but is somewhat earlier, and has yellower tubers,
with less of the pink tinge. The difference, however, is very
slight, and it would be no great mistake to consider the two as
Synonymous.

Lerchen- Kartoffel. — Tubers yellow, round, rather small, but
numerous ; eyes somewhat sunk ; skin very smooth ; shoot white.
Stems medium-sized, but fairly vigorous ; leaves light green ;
flowers white. This handsome small variety is very distinct.
The tubers are of good quality, but only moderately productive.

Mangel-Wurzel (Synonyms : Doigt de Dame, Constance Peraut,
Catawissa, Bush Potato). — Tubers long, broad, flattened, oblong, and
most usually notched, entirely red, or variegated with red and yellow,
and generally very large, sometimes weighing over two pounds
each. Most commonly they ripen irregularly and keep badly. A
late kind, more suitable for feeding cattle than for table use.

Montana. — Tubers pink, long ; eyes few, flesh yellow. A late
variety with erect, strong, brown stems ; flowers lilac,

Richter's Schneerose.— Tubers large, thick, oblong, white ; eyes
faintly marked ; shoot pink. Stems vigorous, erect, about 2j ft.
high. Leaves stiff, broad, round, and of a dark and somewhat
gray green. Flowers pink, opening well, but falling off abortive.

Riesen Sand- Kartoffel (P. de Terre Geante].— Tubers long,
flat, yellow variegated with red, especially towards the top ; eyes
rather deeply sunk ; shoot pink. Stems short, very stiff, thick,
and green ; leaves very much curled and reticulated, rather broad,
and of a dark green colour ; flowers pink, abortive.

Rosalie (Paulseri). — Vigorous and productive. Tubers oblong,
thick, somewhat knobby, eyes not much sunk, marked with pink, as

POTATOES: GERMAN VARIETIES 601

is also the end of the tuber ; flesh white, fine and very floury ;
shoot pink. Stems erect, fairly strong ; leaves large, light green ;
flowers pinkish lilac. Early, and rich in starch.

Rothe Unvergleichliche Salat-Kartoffel. — Tubers nearly
cylindrical, one and a half times or twice as long as broad, very
much notched ; skin red. Distinguished from those of any other
kind by the appearance of the flesh, which is variegated with red
and yellow. Stems rather crowded together, vigorous, and very
leafy. A somewhat late kind, but keeps well.

Sachsische Zwiebel-Kartoffel gelbfleischige (Rouge de
Boheme). — Tubers round or somewhat long, not flattened, and
rather notched ; skin entirely red or red variegated with yellow ;
shoot pink ; flesh pure yellow. Stems very vigorous, branching,
sometimes nearly 6J ft. long ; leaves very abundant, and dark
green ; flowers violet-red. A late but very vigorous and productive
variety. The tubers keep well, and contain a good deal of starch.

Sachsische Zwiebel-Kartoffel weissfleischige. — Tubers
rounded, somewhat flattened, of medium and very uniform size; eyes
slightly sunk ; skin smooth, red ; flesh white ; shoot pink. Stems
luxuriant, long, rather slender, and usually branching and trailing ;
leaves of a dark and slightly gray green ; flowers generally abortive.
Spargel-Kartoffel (P. de Terre Asperge}. — Tubers small, almost
cylindrical, but short, being only twice as long as broad ; skin and
flesh yellow ; shoot pink. Stems of medium height, rather slender ;
leaves clear green ; flowers white. A half-late and very distinct

small kind, esteemed on account
of the firmness of the flesh,
which is not easily broken, even
when cooked.

Unica (Paulseri). — Half-
early ; tubers yellow, round,
notched ; flesh pale yellow ;
flowers pink, in large clusters.
Van der Veer. — Tuber
rounded or slightly elongated ;

Van der Veer Potato. skin smQoth or*omewhat rough .

eyes pretty much sunk ; flesh pale yellow ; shoot pink. Late and
productive ; suitable for field culture.

SWEET POTATO

Convolvulus Batatas, L. Convolvulacecs.

French, Patate douce. Italian, Patata. Spanish and Portuguese, Batata,

Native of South America. — Perennial, but cultivated as an annual.
— Stems creeping, often 10 ft. long or more, with numerous heart-
shaped leaves of a dark green colour, sometimes glistening ; flowers

602 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

axillary, like those of a Convolvulus, seldom blooming in the
climate of Paris ; roots abundant, very much ramified, and bearing
tubers more or less rounded or elongated in shape, according to
the variety. The flesh of these tubers is tender, floury, sweet, and,
in most cases, rather perfumed. They are the edible part of the
plant, and are produced in very great abundance in warm countries,
where, as an article of food, they occupy, to a certain extent, the
same place which the Potato does with us.

CULTURE. — As the Sweet Potato requires a rather long time
to complete its growth, it is difficult to cultivate it in the climate
of Paris without the aid of artificial heat ; and as, moreover, the
tubers keep badly in northern countries, gardeners are in the habit
of starting some plants in the middle or end of winter, either in a
plant-house or in a hot-bed. As soon as the shoots are strong
enough, they are detached from the tubers and planted separately
in pots, in which they remain until they are planted out. This is
done from March to the end of May, according as it is desired to
forward the growth of the plants. Those planted out in March
and April should have the protection of a frame. In May this is
not required, and the plants may then be simply put out on beds
of dry leaves covered with from 4 to 6 in. of light soil or compost.
Copious waterings are necessary as soon as the hot weather
commences, and the stems quickly cover the whole bed, and even
extend beyond it. In the South only, the Sweet Potato may be
planted in the open air on sloping beds of rich mellow soil, and
watered by means of trenches cut between the beds, which should
be at least 6J ft. apart. The tubers are well grown in four or five
months, and are taken up as late as possible in the climate of
Paris, but care must be taken to lift the crop as soon as the stems
and leaves have been touched by frost, as, the soil being no longer
covered by the foliage, the frost would easily reach the tubers,
which very often grow level with the surface of the ground, and are
very sensitive to cold. The tubers are very difficult to keep, cold
and damp being equally injurious to them ; they should, therefore,
be kept in a very dry place, the temperature of which should be as
uniform as possible, and never fall below 5 or 6° C. (40° or 42°
Fahr.). It is sometimes a good plan to store them in boxes, which
are then filled up with dry sand, peat, or sawdust. The tubers
should not be allowed to touch one another, and the boxes should
be examined from time to time, and any tubers which have
commenced to decay should be removed. Like the ordinary
Potato, the Sweet Potato may be propagated from seed, but
varieties are not reproduced true in this way, and it is only
employed for the purpose of raising new varieties. However, the
plant never seeds in the climate of Paris, and it is useless to
attempt the culture of it in England.

SWEET POTATO

603

USES. — The tubers are prepared in various ways and eaten like
those of the ordinary Potato. The flesh is sweet, very tender,
and, in most varieties, has a perfume somewhat like the scent of
violets. As in the case of the common Potato, there is a vast
difference in the flavour of well-grown " mealy " and that of waxy
roots.

Of Sweet Potatoes, an almost infinite number of varieties are
cultivated. We shall only mention the earliest kinds, and those
which succeed best in France.

Patate Igname. — Tubers very large, oval or oblong, blunt at the
ends, and often channelled or furrowed ; skin grayish white ; flesh
white, not very fine in texture, rather floury, and moderately sweet.
This is one of the most productive kinds, the tubers sometimes
weighing nearly nine pounds each.

Patate Jaune. — A somewhat late variety, but of excellent
quality. Tubers long, slender, very thin, about 16 in. long and 2 in.
in diameter ; skin yellow, smooth ; flesh of a handsome yellow
colour, very fine flavoured and sweet.

Patate Rose de Malaga.— Tubers oblong, somewhat variable
in shape, often marked with longitudinal furrows, and thicker at
one end than at the other ; skin
of a somewhat grayish pink colour ;
flesh yellow, very fine in texture,
and moderately sweet. This is one
of the earliest and most productive
varieties.

Rose de Malaga Sweet Potato (^ natural size). Red Sweet Potato (£ natural size).

Red Sweet Potato. — This is the sweetest, most highly per-
fumed, and least floury of all varieties. Tubers very long and
slender, about 20 in. in length, by 2 in. or less in the diameter of the
thickest part, but much thinner at both ends. They are almost

604

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

always sinuated or undulated. Skin smooth, red slightly tinged
with violet ; flesh white in the interior, and light pink under the
skin. This is the variety which is most generally grown by
gardeners in the vicinity of Paris.

Many other varieties of Sweet Potato are cultivated in Algeria
and other French colonies, and even in the United States, where
this vegetable forms an important article of commerce.

PURSLANE

Portulaca oleracea, L. Portulacacece.

French, Pourpier. German, Portulak. Flemish and Dutch, Postelijn. Danish,
Portulak. Italian, Porcellana. Spanish, Verdolaga. Portuguese, Beldroega.

Native of India. — Annual. — The Purslane, which appears to be
undoubtedly of East Indian origin, has been naturalised amongst
us to the extent of having become a weed. It has a thick fleshy
stem, which sprawls on the ground when the plant grows alone,
but is unbranched and erect in plants grown closely together.
Leaves thick, shortly spathulate ; flowers very small, yellow,
growing from the axils of the leaves, and succeeded by rounded,
slightly compressed seed-vessels filled with very small, shining,

black seeds. Their germi-
nating power lasts for seven
years at least.

CULTURE. — The seed is
sown, either in drills or
broad-cast, in light soil, from
May to August, and the
leaves and stems may begin
to be gathered for use in
about two months after
sowing. The same plants
will yield two or three
gatherings, provided they
are watered frequently. Sow-
ings are often made in frames
or on hot-beds, in order to
obtain a winter or spring
supply. In this case the
seed is sown from December
to March on hot-beds, as
the plant requires a pretty

Green Purslane (i natural size ; detached . . . * .

branch, | natural size). high temperature to grow

vigorously, and leaves may be

gathered in two months or two months and a half after sowing.
USES. — The leaves are eaten cooked, or raw as salad.

PURSLANE

605

Green Purslane. — This is the wild plant developed and
increased in size by continuous cultivation of selected large-leaved
specimens. Even in the wild state some Purslane-plants are met
with which have a more marked tendency than others to grow
with the stems erect in-
stead of sprawling on the
ground, and this form it
has naturally been sought
to reproduce and improve
by cultivation, as being
more productive on an
equal area, and more easy
to gather than plants of
spreading habit

Golden Purslane. —
This variety is easily dis-
tinguished from the pre-
ceding one by the light,
almost yellow, tint of its
leaves. It is grown and
used in exactly the same
manner. Its peculiar tint
appears to be less owing
to a weaker colouring of
the parenchyma of the leaf
than to a greater thickness
of the epidermis, which is
of a yellow hue. When
cooked, the leaves do not differ very much in colour from those
of the Green Purslane.

Large-leaved Golden Purslane. — This variety is very distinct
on account of the size of the leaves, which are at least double as
large as those of the two preceding kinds, and grow closer together
on the stem. The plant does not grow quite so rapidly as either
of the two other kinds, but it is quite as productive, being more
thick set and compact in habit

Large-leaved Golden Purslane (| natural size ;
detached branch, £ natural size).

WINTER PURSLANE

Claytonia perfoliata, Don. Portulacacea.

French, Claytone perfoliee. Flemish, Doorwas. Dutch, Winter-postelijn. Spanish^

Verdolaga de Cuba.

Native of Cuba. — Annual. — Leaves all radical, very tender,
thick, and fleshy, the earliest ones very narrow and lanceolate, the
following ones more or less broad, but always pointed ; stems
numerous, somewhat taller than the leaves, and bearing at the end

606 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

a sort of broadly funnel-shaped collarette of the same texture as
the leaves, from the centre of which issue short panicles of small
white flowers ; seeds small, black, slightly flattened, and lentil-

Winter Purslane (£ natural size).

shaped. Their germinating power lasts for five years. The seed
is sown, where the plants are to stand, all through spring and
summer. The leaves are eaten as salad, or cooked like ordinary
Purslane or Spinach.

RADISHES

Raphanus sativus, L. Cruel/era.

French, Radis. German, Radies. Flemish, and Dutch, Radijs. Danish, Haveroed-dike.
Italian, Ravanello. Spanish, Rabanito. Portuguese, Rabao.

Native of South Asia (?). — Annual. — The type or original plant
from which the cultivated forms of Radishes have been derived is
not known with certainty. The question has given rise to many
inquiries and discussions, and probably will give rise to many more,
as the highest and most competent authorities on the subject
hesitate to decide the point. Up to the present, no wild plant has
been found with characteristics which would allow of its being
regarded unmistakably as the progenitor of cultivated Radishes.
The opinion that these have sprung from Raphanus Raphanistrum
(the Wild Radish of our fields) may be- maintained, but there are
very important indications which appear to us to be opposed to it.
Besides the differences in the colour of the flowers (which, in the
Wild Radish, are often yellow, but never so in the cultivated

RADISHES

607

varieties), and in the formation of the siliques or seed-vessels
(which are jointed in the Wild Radish, and not so in the others),
it must be observed that the cultivated plants are much more
sensitive to cold than our native Wild Radish, a fact which would
appear to point to a more southern clime as the native habitat of
the first parents of these plants. Moreover, the stems of the
cultivated plants grow erect, and not in an inclined or almost
prostrate position, as is frequently the case with the Wild Radish.
There are two Asiatic forms of Radish which have unjointed, fleshy,
edible seed-vessels, viz. the Madras Radish (Radis de Madras) and
the Mougri, or Snake Radish, of Java {Mougri de Java ou Radis
Serpent), and it is towards the countries in which these forms,
resembling the cultivated Radish in the structure of the seed-vessel
and in all their characteristics of growth, are found, that we think
we should look for the original plant which was their common
ancestor.

The cultivated Radish is looked upon as an annual, because the
growth of the flower-stems is not preceded by any period of repose
in the growth of the plant ; the large late varieties, however, should
rather be considered biennial. The leaves are oblong in shape, the
flower-stems are branched, and the flowers are white or lilac, but
never yellow. The seed is reddish, round or slightly elongated,
and usually somewhat flattened at the sides. Its germinating
power lasts for five years.

The French are such excellent
Radish growers that those who care
to be informed as to the best way of
growing these roots can hardly do
better than read the cultural notes
given under the three divisions.
For various reasons, however, it may
be well to give here the culture
usually pursued in our own country,
both in private and market gardens.
A small and constant supply of crisp,
delicately flavoured bulbs should be
the only aim. The earliest will be
had from a hot-bed or from under
some glass protection. It is seldom
we grow a special frame of Radishes,
but secure all we want from frames
planted with other crops. In Janu-
ary and February we are frequently
making up beds of manure and
leaves for forcing Potatoes, Carrots,
etc., and amongst these are sown a
few Radishes. When the Potatoes,

for example, are planted in rows
15 in. apart, a row of Radishes may
be sown between, and they will be
ready for use and cleared off before
the Potato crop in any way inter-
feres with them. In Carrot-frames
the same thing may be done, and
sometimes a Radish-seed is dropped
in here and there amongst the Car-
rots, as they will push up and be
cleared off before the Carrots require
much top room. Thus young spring
Radishes are obtained without any
special attention ; many, however,
who try to grow early Radishes in
this way make mistakes. One of
these is sowing the seed too thickly,
so that when the plants come up
they are as a mat at top and bottom,
and when this is the case useful
roots are never formed. Thinning
out some of the plants as soon as
they can be handled is one way of

6o8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

avoiding this, but it is a wasteful
way; the better plan is always to
sow thinly. One seed every few
inches will give a much finer crop
and better results altogether than
close sowing. Many doubtless
wonder why their Radishes do not
all bulb, but allowing them to grow
too close together is, as a rule, the
cause of this. Many are most
particular, too, in getting their seeds
in and the crop brought to maturity,
but after the usable part of it has
been gathered neglect follows, and
where Radishes have been raised in
a Potato or Carrot frame it is no
uncommon thing to see worthless
Radish tops overshadowing every-
thing by the time the other crops
should have been at their best.
Cultivators should always be parti-
cular in clearing away all Radishes
as soon as they become too old for
use, and any which do not bulb early
may be thrown away altogether.

SPECIAL BEDS. — In making up a
special bed for early Radishes, a very
shallow bed of fermenting material
is sufficient ; about i ft. in depth is
enough, and 6 in. of soil should be
put on the top of this. They bulb
fastest early in the year in a mode-
rately rich sandy mixture. The seed
should be sown broadcast, very
thin, and it should not be covered
more than j in. deep. The earliest
seed may be sown in frames in
January and February, but in the
latter month and throughout March
seed may also be sown along the
base of a south wall or in any
sheltered sunny spot. Here the rule
as to thin sowing should also be ob-
served ; in fact, this must be kept in
mind throughout. When the little
plants appear at first in the colder
months of spring a slight protection
will favour their free growth. A few
branches or some similar covering is
all that is needed.

SUMMER RADISHES. — From April
onwards throughout the summer
select spots need not be chosen for
Radishes, as they will do almost
anywhere, their only requirements
being a firm, rich, cool soil. With-
out this, especially in summer, the
roots will become hot and stringy
before they are well developed, and
the period of their use will be very
short. In general culture some may
prefer having the seed in rows;
others may sow broadcast, and good
Radishes may be had in both ways.
At no time should the seed be
put more than j in. below the
surface ; the soil should always be
trodden firmly over it, as this in-
duces the plants to bulb quicker
and better than when in loose
material.

WINTER RADISHES. — Ourruleisto
sow a small quantity of seed every
three weeks from the middle of
January until the beginning of
September, when we stop all sow-
ings and dealings with the summer
varieties, and devote one good large
piece of ground to the Chinese
Scarlet for winter. This sowing is
made on a south border which may
have been previously cleared of Pota-
toes or some other crop. The seed
is put in in rows 15 in. apart, in
order that plenty of air and light may
be admitted to them in winter, and
if the young plants come up too
close they are thinned out to 6 in.
apart. Under this treatment a
uniform crop of useful bulbs is the
result. We generally gather some
of these by the end of October, when
they are no larger than filberts.
To have Radishes in the best
possible condition, they must be
grown quickly ; and to do this in dry
soils, frequent waterings during dry
weather must be given them, other-
wise by the time the roots are of
a usable size they will generally

RADISHES

609

be stringy and ill-flavoured. Small
sowings in quick succession are,
therefore, preferable to large ones
made at long intervals apart.

CULTURE FOR MARKET. — In the
London market-gardens, the first
two crops of Radishes of the year
are generally grown amongst fruit-
trees, if bush fruits or Roses do not
occupy the ground. By sowing
time, which is in November and
December, the trees are leafless and
pruned ; therefore they do not offer
much shade to the young Radish-
plants, but rather protect them
from cold winds and severe frosts,
and before the trees have made much

frowth in spring the Radishes are
t for market, and the ground when
cleared of them is available for being
planted with Lettuces or other
plants that are best suited for a
shady situation. Crops of Radishes
to succeed those under fruit-trees
are sown in open quarters, in 6-ft.
wide beds with alleys between them.
After sowing, the seed is raked in
with wooden rakes, and afterwards
slightly covered with fine soil taken
from the alleys. The surface of the
bed is then rolled and, in the case
of early sowings, slightly covered
with long litter, which after the
seeds have germinated is removed
on every favourable opportunity,
but immediately replaced on the
appearance of frosty, snowy, or
stormy weather. After the second
week in February coverings are
dispensed with if the weather is at
all likely to continue mild for a time,
as the plants have by this time
become strong and better able to
stand the cold. The litter is, how-
ever, kept in the alleys in case of
emergency until all danger from

frost is over, when it is removed
entirely and converted into manure.
Successional sowings are made in
February, March, and April, in a
manner similar to that just described,
and in some cases during the sum-
mer. But, except in moist situations,
Radishes do not succeed well in
hot weather ; therefore, where such
situations do not exist, sowing ceases
in spring, and recommences in
August and September, if the weather
be at all showery. A good crop of
Radishes during the summer is pro-
fitable, and especially so in dry
seasons. The ground chosen for
them is usually that recently cleared
of Celery, French Beans, Rhubarb,
or Vegetable Marrows, which, after
being deeply dug and heavily
manured, is levelled and otherwise
prepared to receive the seed. Some-
times Radishes are sown between
Asparagus ridges, and in such posi-
tions they succeed remarkably well
on account of the soil being deep
and rich. When Radishes are re-
quired earlier in the spring than
they can be gathered from the
December outdoor sowing, they are
obtained from frames placed on hot-
beds, or trenches are dug out and
filled with manure, on which a little
soil is placed, and after sowing, the
beds are covered over with litter.
In March the first outdoor crops are
usually ready for market. Birds
are the worst enemies with which
the Radish grower has to contend,
and when large quantities are grown
it is found necessary to employ boys
to scare them away, otherwise they
would devour all the seed, and even
pull up the young plants in order to
obtain the husks which adhere to
the young leaves.

USES. — The roots are eaten raw.

The varieties of Radishes are very numerous, and we shall
divide them, according to their period of culture, into Small or

39

6io

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Forcing, Summer or Autumn, and Winter Radishes, the mode of
culture which is suitable for each of these divisions being very
different from that which should be employed for the others.

I. Small, or Forcing-, Radishes

These Radishes are sown in the open air from February to
November, usually broadcast in beds, and the seedlings are thinned
out so as to allow the plants to grow evenly. The beds should be
kept free from weeds, and frequently watered in hot dry weather.
In about from sixteen to eighteen days, if the weather is favour-
able, and from twenty to twenty-five days if otherwise, the earliest
plants will be fit for use. As for the rest, it may be four, five, or
six weeks, according to the weather, before they are fit to be pulled.
In spring, or late in autumn, the seed should be sown in a warm
sheltered position ; in summer a cool shady place is preferable.
Sowings should be made in succession every fortnight or ten days,
in order to keep up a supply of young tender Radishes. In Decem-
ber, January, and February, the seed is sown on hot-beds under
frames or bell-glasses. The market-gardeners of Paris grow
Radishes in the depth of winter on hot-beds covered with leaf-
mould or compost, without any protection except that of straw mats,
which are placed over them at night and in frosty weather, and are
taken off whenever the weather is not too severe. These Radishes
are usually fit to be pulled in from five to six weeks after sowing.

A. ROUND, OR TURNIP-ROOTED, RADISHES

Scarlet Turnip Radish. — Root nearly spherical, slightly top-
shaped when very young ; skin somewhat
vinous red ; flesh white, slightly tinged
with pink ; leaves rounded, cut 'at the
edges, and of a somewhat glaucous green
colour ; leaf-stalks faintly bronzed. In
fine weather, as in May, this Radish is
fit for use in about twenty-five days after
sowing. It is hardy, does not become
hollow at the centre too quickly, and
grows well in ordinary garden soil.

Early Scarlet Turnip Radish. — Root
i more flattened than that of the preceding
\ kind, well rounded underneath, having
A only a very slender, small tap-root, and
resembling the ordinary Scarlet Turnip
Radish in the colour of the skin ; flesh
very white; leaves short and close growing.

Scarlet Turnip Radish Jhis Vfiety is fit for USe in ab°Ut twen^

a natural size). days after sowing, and can be grown in

SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES

611

Forcing Scarlet Turnip Radish.

ordinary garden soil, but compost or leaf-mould suits it much better.
It becomes hollow at the centre sooner than the preceding kind.

Forcing* Scarlet Turnip Radish. — Root small, very regular,
becoming quickly spherical, of a beautiful carmine-red, and leaves
light and short. The root
is formed and ready to
pull before the fourth leaf
(besides the cotyledons)
has attained its full de-
velopment— i.e. in sixteen
or eighteen days. It re-
quires to be grown in pure « | • •

decayed spent manure
(terreau\

Early Scarlet White-
tipped Turnip Radish.
— A handsome and exceedingly early variety. Root round. It
is the only garden Radish that is really pink in colour, the two
preceding kinds being more of a carmine-red ; but in this variety
the upper part of the root is a true bright pink, which makes a
pleasing contrast with the white of the lower part. The root of this
Radish swells more speedily than that of any other variety, but it
also quickly becomes hollow at the centre, and should be pulled for

use as soon as it is fully grown.
It grows really well only in compost
or leaf-mould, and is sometimes fit
for use in from sixteen to eighteen
days after sowing. The market-
gardeners about Paris grow it in
preference to all other kinds for
an early crop.

^

Scarlet White-tipped Turnip Radish.

Forcing Scarlet White-tipped Turnip Radish.

Forcing Scarlet White-tipped Turnip Radish.— Still earlier
than the preceding one, it differs from it mostly by its leaves,
which are extremely short and light. It is admirably suited for

612

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Deep Scarlet Turnip
Radish.

raising an early crop, and succeeds much better on spent manure
than in garden soil.

Early Scarlet Globe Radish.— Introduced from America a good
many years ago, it forms rapidly small uniformly bright red roots.

The leaves are small, like those of the other
forcing Radishes, and the root, although
not so long as in the olive-shaped sorts, is
not as round as in the turnip varieties, and
would be as correctly described as oval
as globe.

Blood-red Turnip Radish. — A hardy
Radish with globe-shaped roots of peculiar
brown-red colour, and white, firm flesh ;
it requires less care, when grown in the
open ground, than the other early sorts,
and keeps longer without becoming pithy.
In ordinary conditions it is fit for use
twenty-eight to thirty days after sowing.
Early Deep Scarlet Turnip Radish. — A very handsome
variety. Root very round, or slightly flattened, and of an
exceedingly bright colour; flesh white, firm, crisp, and very
pleasant to the taste ; leaves of a somewhat lighter green
than those of the pink-skinned Radishes. This variety is
often fit for use in about twenty days after sowing. It grows
well in ordinary garden soil, and still better in compost or leaf-
mould.

Forcing Deep Scarlet Turnip Radish. — A handsome small
variety, remarkable for
its bright colour and for
its small leaves. An early
forcing Radish, it is fit
for the market within
fifteen to twenty days
from sowing time, accord-
ing to circumstances.

Forcing Deep Scar-
let White-tipped Turnip
Radish. — This variety is
very like other small
Radishes for forcing in
the smallness of its leaves
and the rapidity with
which the root is formed. It is one of the most grown sorts for
early crops.

Forcing Bright Red Leafless Radish. — Root ovoid, bright
carmine, of excellent quality. A very early variety, and well adapted

Forcing Deep Scarlet Turnip Radish.

SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES

613

Forcing Bright Red Leafless Radish.

for forcing ; remarkable also for its scant foliage, often confined to

the two cotyledons and two

additional small, short, and

rough leaves. This, with

its great earliness, makes it

apt for growing under glass.

It seldom seeds.

Triumph Radish. — In

general characteristics it

belongs to the forcing

turnip-rooted Radishes ; it

has their globe-shaped root,

small leaves, and their

earliness. Its peculiarity

consists in thescarlet streaks

with which the white root

is covered. On some roots

either the red or the white

colour predominates, but as

a rule the stripes are distinct, and contrast agreeably with the

uniform colouring of the other early Radishes.

White Turnip Radish. — A handsome variety. Root nearly

round, flattened only when
it attains a very large
size ; leaves pretty large,
erect, and light green.
Although it is only two
or three days later than
the Early White Turnip
Radish, this kind is more
suitable for open-air cul-
ture than for forcing. The
flesh is white, firm, and
agreeably pungent.

Small Early White
Turnip Radish. — Root
rounded, usually flattened
above and underneath,
often twice as broad as
deep ; leaves short, rather
spreading, very much cut
or divided, somewhat gray,
and tinged with brown on
the veins and in the middle.
In this variety the roots

Triumph Radish.

do not swell very quickly, as they take at least from twenty to

614

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Small Early White Turnip Radish
(| natural size).

twenty-five days from the time of sowing before they are fit to

be pulled for use. It is, however, employed for forcing, especially

in northern countries. Even when quite small, this Radish is

remarkably pungent, and its flavour
is sometimes so strong as to be
hardly endurable.

Early Purple Turnip Radish.
— Root slightly top-shaped, of a
fine clear violet colour ; flesh white,
almost transparent ; leaves rather
large, cut, or divided, erect, and
light green. The roots of this
variety take about a month to
swell, but they remain a long time
without becoming hollow at the
centre. It is a true " all-the-year-
round" Radish.

White-tipped Purple Turnip
Radish. — A handsome, small kind,
with an almost spherical root, dark

violet-colour around the neck, becoming paler towards the lower

extremity, which is white. Leaf-stalks and veins of the leaves

violet-coloured or brown ; leaves rather scant. Like the Early

White-tipped Scarlet Radish, this variety should be sown at intervals

of about a fortnight, as it soon becomes hollow.

Very Early Yellow Turnip Radish. — Great numbers of yellow

Radishes have during the past few years been recommended as

sufficiently early to rank among the forcing

Radishes, and none deserves better than

this to be classed among such Radishes.

The root is formed in summer within about

twenty-five days ; it is perfectly round, well

shaped, and of a fine ochre-yellow. The

leaves are short and few in comparison

with the size of the root.

B. INTERMEDIATE, OR OLIVE-SHAPED,
VARIETIES

Olive-shaped Scarlet Radish.— Root
ovoid, slightly elongated, usually olive-
shaped, sometimes almost cylindrical for
a good part of its length, and rounded
at both ends. In colour a very deep

carmine; flesh white, firm, and crisp; olive-shaped Scarlet Radish

leaves rounded, light green, rather broad,

Q natural size).

SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES

615

\

and not quite so large as those of the Scarlet Turnip Radish. This
is one of the kinds which are most extensively grown in kitchen-
gardens and for market supply. It grows well in the open ground,
and remains some time without becoming hollow. The market-
gardeners of Paris often try to raise it with
the roots long and slender, rather than ovoid
in shape, and they succeed in doing so by
covering the beds with compost or leaf-mould
as soon as the young plants are pretty well up.
French Breakfast Radish. — Under this
name two distinct varieties are grown, differing
from each other not only in colour, but also in
productiveness, etc. The Parisian strain is a
very handsome variety, of the same shape as
the preceding, or not quite so long ; skin a
florid and rather lively pink on the upper French Breakfast Radish,
part — four-fifths — of the root, and white on
the lower part. Like the White-tipped Scarlet Turnip Radish,
this variety is exceedingly early ; but the root very soon becomes
hollow if it is not pulled as soon as it is fully formed. It grows
much better in a hot-bed, or in compost or leaf-mould, than in
ordinary garden soil.

The kind known as the Southern strain is rather thicker and
longer in the root than the Parisian, and the pink colour is not
quite so bright, and one-fourth of the root is white. The greater

size of the white blotch of this variety
distinguishes it sufficiently, and it has
the advantage of being well suited for
sowings during summer in the open
ground, whereas the Parisian sort is a
market-garden Radish.

Forcing Olive-shaped Scarlet
White-tipped Radish. — Root twice
or thrice as long as thick, almost
cylindrical, of a bright rose colour,
ending in a fine tap-root which is
white, as is also the end of the root.
The leaves are not different from those
of other forcing Radishes. It is one
of the earliest, beingj under average

Deep Scarlet Intermediate Radish. Conditions, fit for pulling from fifteen

to eighteen days after sowing.

Deep Scarlet Intermediate Radish.— This variety is as distinct
in the colour of the skin as it is in the shape of the root, which is
longer, and terminates in a longer and finer point than that of any
other Intermediate variety. Leaves light green in colour, rather

\

6i6

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Deep Scarlet Olive-
shaped Radish.

large, and erect ; flesh very white, firm, crisp, very juicy, strong, and
pungent. This is a fairly hardy kind, and very suitable for growing
in the open air. The roots take about twenty-five days to swell,
and do not become hollow too soon.

Early Deep Scarlet Olive -shaped
Radish. — This is one of the handsomest
and best of all the Small or Forcing
Radishes. The root is regularly olive-shaped,
very symmetrical, and very smooth ; flesh
white and firm ; leaves short, stiff, and few
for the size of the root. The plant grows
well in the open air. The roots take about
twenty to twenty-two days to swell. Its
earliness and scanty foliage render it equally
suitable for forcing. This variety is easily
distinguished from the preceding one, by
the roots being shorter and terminating more
abruptly at the base, instead of gradually
diminishing to a point. The flesh is tender, mild, cool, and hardly
pungent.

Forcing Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet Short-leaf Radish. — A
handsome very early kind, rooting as early as any of the turnip-
shaped sorts. Olive-shaped root, tapering at the end, and showing
a tendency to grow into a top shape. Leaves very small, erect,
with stalk and veins tinged with copper colour. The root is gene-
rally sufficiently formed as soon as three leaves have developed,
besides the cotyledons.

Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet
White - tipped Radish. — An
offspring of the French Break-
fast Radish, selected by the
Parisian market-gardeners until
it is hardly possible to recognise
its origin. It is now almost
cylindrical in shape, and deep
crimson, almost blood-red, in
colour. Thus quite a distinct
strain has been established,
which, like the French Breakfast
Radish, has also produced a
forcing sub-variety, hereafter

Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet White-tipped
Radish.

described.

Forcing Olive-shaped Deep Scarlet White-tipped Radish.—
One of the quickest to crop ; it is, on average conditions, fit to be
pulled fifteen to eighteen days after sowing. Its colour is a very
bright scarlet-red, contrasting vividly with the white blotch at the

SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES 617

extreme end of the root. It comes quite true from seed, has very
scanty foliage, and is admirably suited for forcing.

Purple Olive-shaped Radish. — Root ovoid, almost pear-
shaped, the thickest part being near the base. The upper half
is of a black-violet colour, which gradually becomes paler until it
passes into pure white at the extremity. The leaves are scanty,
rather cut at the edges, and tinged with violet-brown on the stalks,
veins, and sometimes on the blade of the leaf itself, giving the foliage
a rather pleasing appearance. The flesh is white, hard, and strong
flavoured. The roots take about a month to swell. This variety
is especially suitable for open-air culture, but is also well adapted
for forcing.

White Olive-shaped Radish. — When this variety is grown
true to name, the root is very handsome, very regularly olive-
shaped, and of a very fresh pure white colour ; flesh very white
and crisp, and not too
pungent ; leaves medium-
sized, rather erect, and light
green. This Radish may
be grown equally well in a
hot-bed and in the open
air. The roots take about
twenty-five days to swell.
The colour forms a pleasing
contrast to that of the other
Intermediate varieties. It

is not long since the variety mite oiive-shaped Radish,

was firmly established in
the olive-shape represented in the accompanying illustration.
Formerly it had the defect of being long in the lower part, almost
like a Long Radish — a defect which, even yet, it sometimes has
when the seed is not very pure.

Forcing White Olive-shaped Radish.— Root long, olive-
shaped, thick from the top to about two-thirds of its length, then
tapering abruptly and terminating in a thin tap-root. Ready for
pulling in from fifteen to eighteen days. It is a perfectly white
Radish, but, pulled a little late, the neck takes a greenish tinge.
The leaves are rather larger than those of the other Forcing
Radishes.

C. LONG RADISHES

Long Scarlet, or Salmon-coloured, Radish. — Root extremely
long and slender, often 5 or 6 in. in length and only about f in.
in diameter, the upper part long, cone-shaped, narrowed towards the
base of the leaves ; skin smooth, and a vinous red colour ; flesh
almost transparent, and slightly tinged with pink or lilac. This

6i8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

peculiar appearance of the flesh easily distinguishes the variety
from all others which resemble it. This Radish is most usually
grown in the open air in well-dug and well-manured soil. It is
very seldom used for forcing, on account of the great length of the
root, which would require too deep a layer of compost or leaf-
mould. . The roots take about a month to become fully formed.
The flesh is tender, crisp, and fresh, but has not the pungent flavour
of the Turnip Radishes or the Intermediate varieties.

Long Scarlet, or Salmon-coloured,
Radish (^ natural size).

Wood's Early Frame Radish.

Wood's Early Frame Radish. — This variety comes between
the Long and the Intermediate kinds. The roots, which are of a
very long ovoid shape, are usually from 2§ to 2y in. long, and
about | in. broad in the thickest part, which is not far below the
base of the leaf-stalks. The skin is a very lively carmine, becoming
paler towards the lower end of the root. The flesh is very white,
firm, juicy, very crisp, fresh, pleasant to the taste, and slightly
pungent, like that of the Scarlet Intermediate Radish. The leaves
are broad, rather short, compact, and rounded in shape, the stalks
and veins tinged with coppery red. This Radish, which may also
be very well grown in the open air, is almost always grown in

SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES

619

frames, especially in England. A layer of compost or leaf-mould

4 in. deep over the hot-bed is deep enough to grow it in. Of

all the early Radishes it

yields the heaviest crop

in the same space of

time. The roots take

from twenty to twenty-
two days to become fully

formed.

Long Chart ier

Radish. — A handsome

variety, with long straight

roots, regularly tapering,

of a bright rose colour on

the upper part, the lower

portion much paler or

even white. Culture and

uses exactly the same as

those of the Wood's Early

Frame Radish.

Brightest Scarlet, or

Cardinal, White - tipped

Radish. — Quite distinct,

characterised by the very

bright colour of its root, which is very nearly the colour of the

Deep Scarlet Turnip-shaped and Intermediate Radishes. A very

handsome summer Radish,
fit for use about twenty-
five days after sowing ;
suitable for the open
ground and for being
grown on spent manure.
Flesh white, solid, and
crisp.

Long Purple Radish.
— Root very long and
slender, resembling that of
the Long Scarlet Radish,
with a long conical top,
of an almost black-violet
colour, becoming paler on
the buried part ; flesh
almost transparent, lilac ;
leaves erect, rather long

and broad, with brown stalks and veins. This variety is only

grown in the open air. The roots take about a month to swell.

Long Chartier Radish.

Cardinal White-tipped Radish.

620 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Long White Pearl Forcing Radish. — This variety comes very
near the Long White Vienna Radish, described later, but is still
earlier, and also rather shorter, with a thinner neck, and there is
no green on the root. The root is a uniform milky white colour,
almost transparent. The flesh is crisp, tender, and delicately
pungent. It is a quick grower, doing best in mellow, rich, well-
watered soil, with the aid of artificial heat during winter.

Long White Vienna Radish.— Root white, very smooth and
clean skinned, straight, spindle-shaped, from 4 to nearly 5 in.
long, and from f to I in. broad at the top ; neck short, rounded,
tinged with green, and very narrow at the insertion of leaf-stalks ;

leaves rather large, broad, and light
green. This is an early variety. The
roots take four or five weeks to be-
come fully formed ; the flesh is very
tender, crisp, and juicy. Amongst
the Japanese varieties of Radishes, of
which we shall have occasion to speak
at the end of this article, there is one
which, in its appearance, bears some
resemblance to the present variety.
It has long slender roots, which at
first are quite under the surface of
the soil, but afterwards the top of
the root rises a little overground and
becomes tinged with green at the
neck. The flesh of this variety is
very white, rather strong in flavour,
and of very good quality.

Long White Naples Radish
(Synonyms : White Transparent, or
White Italian, Radish). — Root long

Long White Viennl Radish. and slender pure white resembling

the Long Scarlet Radish in shape,
but rather thicker ; the upper part is conically tapered and tinged
with pale green. This variety is almost always grown in the open
air. The roots take about a month to become fully formed. A
sub-variety of it is sometimes met with, in which the neck of the
root is tinged with violet, but in every other respect it is exactly
the same as the common variety.

Long Normandy, or Marsh, Radish. — A very distinct long
root, remarkable for its habit of protruding from the ground and
becoming twisted like the Ox-horn Beet-root. The part of the
root which remains underground is white, and the portion which
is exposed to the light becomes violet. This Radish is usually
sown in the open air, and the roots are pulled for use when they

SMALL, OR FORCING, RADISHES

621

are about i in. in diameter and 4 in. in length ; they are then very
tender. They attain this size and condition in less than a month
from the time of sowing, after which they rapidly increase in size,
and become twisted and hollow at the centre.

White Crooked, or Mans Corkscrew, Radish. — An ex-
ceedingly distinct variety. Root very long, cylindrical in the
upper part, over I in. in diameter, and frequently more than I ft.
in length. About one-fourth or one-fifth of the root shows above-
ground, and this part is a
dull white, more or less
tinged with pale green. The
underground portion is pure
white, seldom straight, but
most usually twisted like a
corkscrew, in consequence of
which the root can rarely be
pulled up without breaking
and leaving a part in the
ground. The flesh is white,
not very compact, and
pungent. The leaves are
very broad, and the neck of
the root often badly formed.
The roots of this Radish
should be pulled about six
weeks after sowing, as, if
left in the ground longer,
they become only fit for
feeding cattle.

IteArdecJte Field Radish,
which is grown in the south
of France more for feeding
cattle than for table use,
has spme resemblance to the
present variety. Like it, it
is a very long-rooted and
rather late Radish, and yields
a heavier crop of leaves than of roots. It is therefore unsuited
for garden culture, and the same may be said in regard to the
improved form of this Field Radish, the roots of which are rather
larger than those of the original variety.

II. Summer and Autumn Radishes

Radis d'ete ou d'automne.

Under this name are grouped certain varieties, the roots of
which are larger than those of the preceding section, and longer to

Ardeche Field Radish.

622

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Large White Summer Turnip Radish
(5 natural size).

form, but grow nevertheless pretty rapidly, so that, by making

successional sowings, a con-
tinuous supply of fresh
tender Radishes may be
kept up all through the
summer and autumn.
These varieties do not
usually keep long. They
are sown in drills, from
1 6 to 20 in. apart, and the
seedlings are thinned out
to a distance of from 6
to 8 in. from one another,
according to the size of
the variety sown. They
require no attention except
occasional waterings. The

roots of most of the varieties are fully formed in from six weeks

to two months from the time of sowing. Sowings may be made

from March until August.

Large White Summer Turnip

Radish. — Root rounded or top-shaped,

2 in. or more in diameter and length

when well grown ; skin white; flesh white,

rather tender, and slightly pungent ;

leaves rather long, broad, half-erect, much

more abundant and larger than those of

the Small or Forcing Radishes, especially

exceeding them in the size of the midribs

or stalks, which form a rather broad

neck at their junction with the root

The roots of this variety form pretty

soon, and are generally fit for use in

from thirty-five to forty days after

sowing. In the United States they grow

under the name of the Early White

Box Radish, or Philadelphia White Box

Radish, a Radish very similar to it, but

smaller, and possibly a link between the

White Turnip-rooted Radish and the

one just described above.

Stuttgart Early Giant White

Turnip Radish. — A larger variety and

somewhat more flattened in shape than

the preceding one. It is regularly top- TurniP Radish <* natural size>-

shaped, and often 3 or 4 in. in diameter, and over 3 in. in depth.

Stuttgart Early Giant White

SUMMER AND AUTUMN RADISHES

623

Yellow Summer Turnip Radish
( £ natural size).

Skin and flesh white ; leaves somewhat broader and stiffer than
those of the preceding variety, but not so erect. The roots may
be pulled for use about six weeks after sowing, although they will
continue to increase in size for some time longer without deteriorating
in quality. When they
have attained their full
size, they are too large
to be served up entire,
and are cut into slices
like the winter Radishes.
Yellow Summer
Turnip Radish. — Root
almost spherical or top-
shaped, sometimes longer
than broad, fit for use when
about if in. in diameter,
but often hollow when it
exceeds that size ; skin
dark or grayish yellow,
veined lengthways with small white lines produced by fine longi-
tudinal cracks ; flesh white, compact, and very pungent ; leaves
broad and long. This Radish grows rather rapidly, the roots being
fit for use in about five weeks after sowing. With the exception
of the Black Spanish Radish, no other variety, perhaps, has so
strong a flavour. The flavour of the flesh is not, however, always
invariable in any variety of Radish, and the conditions of soil
and climate have a very great influence in
increasing or diminishing its pungency.

Golden-yellow Summer Turnip Radish.
—An earlier variety, better shaped than the
preceding. Is usually classed among the
forcing or monthly varieties, but though
early it is seldom fit for use within a month,
and it is undoubtedly a summer Radish.
The root is a fine yellow, spherical or
slightly top-shaped, with few and small-
sized leaves.

Early Golden-yellow Oval Summer
Radish. — A quick-growing kind, distin-
guished for being a fine yellow colour, and
usually oval-shaped. In quality the same
as the last described sorts.
Gray Summer Turnip Radish. — Root almost spherical or top-
shaped. Except in colour it is very like the Yellow Summer
Turnip Radish, being of the same size, equally early, and having
the skin cracked in the same way.

Golden-yellow Summer
Turnip Radish.

624

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Small Black Summer Turnip Radish. — A variety which
comes pretty near the preceding one, but more deeply coloured,
and from eight to ten days later. The skin is black, cracked and

furrowed with white
lines. The flesh is very
white and firm, and
pungent.

White Strasburg,
or White Hospital,
Summer Radish.— An
early and, at the same
time, very productive
variety. Root pointed,
from 4 to nearly 5 in.
long, and 2 in. or less
in diameter; skin white;
flesh white,rather tender,
and not too pungent ;

leaves large, broad, half-
Early Golden-yellow Oval Rad.sh.

of a light green. The roots may be pulled about six weeks after
sowing, at which time they are two-thirds of their full size.
They will continue to increase in size for a month or more
without spoiling.

Black Long" Summer Radish. — Evidently derived from the
Black Long Winter Radish, and therefore properly a winter Radish ;

White Strasburg Radish (£ natural size).

Black Long Summer Radish.

but we class it among the summer kinds not only because of its
being readily grown in summer, but also because it forms a link
between the two groups. Its root is smoother, more cylindrical

SUMMER AND AUTUMN RADISHES

625

and less pointed than that of the Long Black Spanish Radish, its
leaves fewer, and its flavour milder and less pungent. It is a
favourite of the Paris market-gardeners, because it enables them
to bring out black Radishes in July, when formerly there were
none before October, plants from early sowings being liable
to run to seed. Lovers of pungent Radishes will prefer the old
Black Spanish Radish for autumn and winter use.

III. Winter Radishes

French, Radis d'hiver. German, Winter-Rettig. Flemish and Dutch, Rammenas.

Spanish, Rabano.

The name of Winter Radishes is applied to those kinds which
have such compact and firm-fleshed roots that they will keep
through a great part of the winter without sprouting or becoming
hollow. They are usually large and take several months in
attaining their full growth. The seed is sown in May or June (that
of some varieties up to the beginning of August), usually in drills

Black Spanish Winter Turnip Radish
(1- natural size).

Large Purple Winter Radish
(£ natural size).

from 1 6 to 20 in. apart. The roots are pulled in November, and
will keep to a more or less advanced part of the winter, simply
stored in a dry cellar or a vegetable house.

Black Spanish Winter Turnip Radish. — Root rounded, often
top-shaped, 3 or 4 in. in diameter, and about 3 in. long ; skin
black, cracked in longitudinal lines ; flesh white, very compact, and
firm ; leaves rather broad, very deeply cut into numerous lobes.
This is not a very late kind for a Winter Radish : the seed may be

40

626

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

sown up to the end of July. The roots keep well, and are the
strongest in flavour of all varieties of Turnip Radish.

Large Purple Winter Radish. — Under the name of Large
Purple Winter Radish, a sub-variety of the Black Spanish Winter
Turnip Radish is grown. It is much the same in shape, size, and
earliness, but is distinguished for its purple skin.

Long Black Spanish Winter Radish
(I natural size).

Laon Long Gray Winter Radish
(£ natural size).

Long Black Spanish Winter Radish. — Root cylindrical, very
regular, from about 7 to 10 in. long, and between 2 and 3 in. in
diameter ; skin very black, and somewhat wrinkled ; flesh white,
firm, and compact ; leaves stout, broad, and long. Two forms of
this variety are in cultivation— one with the root rounded and
shortened off at the lower extremity ; the other with the root
tapering to a long point. The second is somewhat later, and the
flesh is very pungent. The first is much more clean skinned, and
often quite mild in flavour.

WINTER RADISHES

627

The Laon Long Gray Winter Radish and the Gournay Large
Purple White Radish are very closely related to the Long Black
Spanish Winter Radish, which they resemble in the size and shape,
being only a little thicker ; they differ from it in their colour, the
Laon variety being iron gray, and the Gournay purple. Both are
grown and used in the same way as the Black Spanish Winter
Radish.

Large White Spanish Winter Radish.— Root spindle-shaped,
nearly cylindrical in the upper two-thirds of its length, and

Gournay Large Purple Winter Radish
(J natural size).

Large White Spanish Winter Radish
(£ natural size).

narrowed to a point in the lower part, 6 or 7 in. long, and nearly
3 in. in diameter ; neck rounded ; skin white ; flesh white, compact,
and very strong in flavour ; leaves very broad. This is a good
Winter Radish, and keeps well. It grows so quickly, however, that
it may be cultivated as a Summer or Autumn Radish, the seed
being sown in June.

Large White Russian Winter Radish. — Root long, ovoid
in shape, often from 12 to 14 in. long, and 5 or 6 in. in diameter ;
skin rather wrinkled, and grayish white ; flesh white, not very

628

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

compact, and rather strong in flavour ; leaves numerous, rather
broad, very much divided, and forming very dense rosettes spread-
ing on the ground. This is a very productive Radish, but for
table use the roots should be pulled before they are fully grown.
In order to keep them well in winter, the seed should be sown in
the end of June or in July. If sown earlier, the roots often become
hollow, and are then only fit for feeding cattle, for which purpose
the large Winter Radishes, and especially the present variety,

might be more largely used
than they are. In the same
space of time they produce
in leaves and roots a greater

Large White Russian Winter Radish.

Chinese Scarlet Winter Radish
(£ natural size).

quantity of cattle-feeding material than Turnips, and, from the
large size of the seed, young Radish-plants are from their earliest
growth more vigorous than young Turnip-plants, and suffer far less
from the attacks of insects.

Chinese Scarlet Winter Radish.— A very distinct variety.
Root long, thicker at the lower extremity than at the neck, blunt
at both ends, and very like the Jersey Turnip in shape ; skin very
bright red, marked with some small semicircular white lines half-
way round the root ; flesh white, very firm and compact, pungent
and sometimes slightly bitter; leaves rather broad, divided, and

WINTER RADISHES

629

spreading ; leaf-stalks bright pink. The roots are of medium size,
usually 4 or 5 in. long, about 2 in. in diameter at the thickest part
of the lower extremity, and about if in. below the neck. This
variety is chiefly grown for autumn and winter use. It may be
sown up to August, and much thicker than the other Winter
Radishes. There is a pure white sub-variety of this Radish, and
also a violet-coloured one, both of which only differ in colour from
the present variety. If we had to admit that any variety of culti-
vated Radishes is derived from the Wild Radish (Raphanus
Raphanistruni], the present variety is the one of all others to which
we should be disposed to assign that origin ; its leaves, root, and
other characteristics pre-
senting an appearance en-
tirely distinct from any
other cultivated kind.

Deep Scarlet Pamir
Turnip Radish. — Resem-
bles in colour the Scarlet
Chinese Radish, but differs
in shape, being almost
spherical. The flesh is
white, firm, and pungent ;
the skin bright scarlet. It
keeps quite well up to
mid-winter without be-
coming pithy, or starting
into vegetation.

Californian, or Mam-
moth White, Winter
Radish.— This Radish is
even more like the Jersey

Deep Scarlet Pamir Turnip Radish.

Turnip than the Chinese Scarlet Winter Radish, being similar in
shape and in colour. The root is pure white, long, cylindrical,
and thickest at the lower end ; it is from 6 to 8 in. long, about
2£ in. in diameter at the thickest part, and about 2 in. for the
remainder of its length, and projecting between I and 2 in. above
the ground. The leaves are large, broad, and a very light green.
It is productive, and a good autumn or winter radish. The roots
take two or three months to form ; the flesh is mild, and not
pungent.

The Japanese cultivate a great many kinds of Long White
Radishes for table use. Some of these are said to produce roots
of the almost fabulous weight of from 33 to 44 Ib. each. When
grown in Europe, most of these Japanese Radishes run to seed
very rapidly, and are not of much value. An exception, however,
is the variety they call Ninengo da'ikon, which is remarkable both

630 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

for the length and symmetry of its root and for its slowness in
running to seed. The root is white, cylindrical, blunt, sometimes
thick at the lower end, and often 1 6 to 20 in. long, and 3 to 4 in. in
diameter. The leaves are large, very long, divided into a very
great number of almost triangular lobes, and very dark green ;
they spread upon the ground, forming a broad flat rosette. To be
grown to perfection it should he sown in April, and the soil very
deeply dug and plentifully manured.

OTHER VARIETIES

White Chinese, or Celestial, Radish. — Root white, cylindrical, very
large, flesh very white and rather mild flavoured.

Radis Blanc Demi-long de la Meurthe et de la Meuse. — A white
Summer Radish, almost always pear- or top-shaped, but of unequal
length. It grows to a pretty large size, but is usually pulled for
use when half-grown, being then about the size of a hen's egg.
The flesh is white, firm, and rather pungent.

R. Friiher Zwei-Monat. — A late variety of the White Olive-
shaped Radish, it is intermediate between the Summer Radishes
and the Small or Forcing Radishes.

R. Gris d'Ett Oblong. — A pear-shaped or ovoid form of the
Gray Summer Turnip Radish, but not so regular in shape and
not superior to it in any way. The flesh is somewhat more
pungent.

R. Gros d'Hiver de Ham (R. Gros Gris d'Aofit). — A true Winter
Radish. Root long, cylindrical, ending in a blunt point, and about
the size of the Long Black Winter Radish, but grayish white. It
resembles the Laon Gray Winter Radish. It is called Gris d'Aotit
because the roots are generally first pulled in August, but it is more
of an Autumn or Winter Radish.

R. de Makon. — An exceedingly distinct kind, peculiar to the
Balearic Islands and some districts in the South of France. It is
a Long Red Radish, the root being often angular (especially when
it grows to a large size), and projecting from the ground for one-
half or two-thirds of its length, like the Mangel-Wurzel. Its
growth is remarkably rapid. The leaves are broad and stout. The
flesh is pinkish white, very juicy, firm, and solid while young. The
root does not grow hollow until it has attained the size of a small
Beet-root.

R. Rond Rouge Fonce. — This is a particular variety of small
Turnip Radish, which has a very dark, almost violet-coloured skin.
It is rather in repute in the southern provinces of France, where it
is said to resist the heat better than the Common Scarlet Turnip
Radish.

RAT-TAILED RADISH

631

RAT-TAILED RADISH

Raphanus caudatus, L.
Radis serpent.

Native of South Asia. — Annual. — The edible part of this Radish
is not the root, but the silique or seed-vessel, which is gathered
before it is fully grown. This, instead of being short and thick, as
in other Radishes, is often twisted, scarcely as thick as a lead-pencil,
and often 8 to 10 in. long. It is frequently violet- coloured, and
somewhat pungent, like that of the Small or Forcing Radishes.

CULTURE. — This plant is extremely easy to grow. The seed
is sown in May, where the plants are to stand, in a warm position
if possible, and in about three months the plants commence to
flower and yield pods or seed-vessels.

USES. — The fresh pods are eaten raw, or they may be pickled

In warm countries another kind of Radish, named the Madras
Radish, is sometimes grown for its pods, which are used like those of
the Rat-tailed Radish. They are almost the same shape as the pods
of the common kinds of Radish, but far more fleshy and tender.

RAMPION

Campanula Rapunculus, L. Campanulacece.

French, Raiponce. German, Rapunzel-Rube. Flemish and Dutch, Rapunsel. Italian,
Raperonzolo. Spanish, Reponche. Portuguese, Rapunculo.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — Root white, spindle-shaped, and
nearly J in. in diameter for 2 in. or more of its length ; flesh white,
very firm, but crisp ; leaves sessile,
rather numerous, long oval-spathu-
late, narrowed at the base, something
like those of the Common Corn-
salad, but more slender and a
lighter green ; flower-stems slender,
hard, somewhat angular, sometimes
branching, and bearing a few linear
leaves ; flowers lilac, bell-shaped,
with five sharp-pointed divisions,
and borne in long spikes ; seed-
vessels small, top-shaped, sur-
mounted by the five teeth of the
calyx ; seeds oblong, flattened,
light brown, and exceedingly
small. They are the smallest of
all kitchen-garden seeds. Their
germinating power lasts for five

years. Rampion (g natural size).

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in the open ground early in May,
either broadcast or in drills from 8 to 10 in. apart. As it is
extremely small, it is a good plan to mix it with a little fine soil
or sand, in order to avoid sowing too thick. The first waterings
should be given carefully, so as not to wash away the seed, which
should not be deeply buried, but merely pressed firmly into the
soil. If the seedlings come up too thick, they should be thinned
out, and they should be frequently watered in hot weather. As
plants sown early in the season are apt to run to seed, it is advisable
to make a fresh sowing in June, using the same precautions. The
roots may commence to be gathered for use in October or November,
and they will continue to yield a supply through the winter ; and
in order that this may not be interrupted by severe frosty weather,
a sufficient quantity of the roots should be taken up beforehand
and stored in sand in a cellar or vegetable-house.

USES. — The roots and leaves are eaten raw as salad.

RHUBARB
Rheum, L. Polygonacece.

French, Rhubarbe. German, Rhabarber. Flemish and Dutch, Rabarber. Danish,
Rhabarber. Italian, Rabarbaro. Spanish and Portuguese, Ruibarbo.

The cultivated varieties of Rhubarb are generally referred

by botanists to Rheum
hybridum, Ait, a native of
Mongolia. These varieties,
however, are far from
exhibiting any constant
characteristics, and it is
not impossible that some
of them may have sprung,
either directly or as the
result of crossing, from the
Rheum undulatum of North
America, or even from other
species.

The plant, as it is grown
in gardens, is remarkable
for its very large heart-
shaped radical leaves, which
measure over 2 \ ft. in length
and 2 ft. or more in breadth,

Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum) (^ natural size). an(? , afe borne on Stalks

which are rounded under-
neath and flat or channelled on the upper surface, about 2 in.
in diameter, and from I ft. to 16 in. in length — dimensions which

RHUBARB

633

by special culture may be increased to nearly double the size.
The flowering stems are large, cylindrical, hollow, and furrowed,
and bear small, short, erect branches, covered with small greenish
flowers, which are succeeded by triangular seeds with a membranous
wing on each of the angles. The germinating power of the seeds
lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — Rhubarb may be propagated from seed ; but as, in
this case, the plants are liable to exhibit much diversity in their
habit of growth, the more common
practice is to divide the root-stock
of the plants which produce the
thickest and longest stalks. The
roots so divided are planted at the
end of winter in good, moist, deep,
very mellow, and well-manured soil,
and about a yard apart in every
direction. The stalks are not pulled
for use until the spring of the year
following that in which the roots
were planted, and the same plants
will continue to yield for four years
at least, and sometimes for ten years
or longer without the plantation
requiring to be renewed. The only
attention necessary is to keep the
ground free from weeds, and to
apply a good dressing of manure
every two or three years. In order to increase the length of
the stalks, a large bottomless flower-pot, a chimney-pot, or a
small barrel with the ends knocked out, is sometimes placed over
each plant in spring when the leaves are starting into growth.
Striving to reach the light, the leaves naturally grow longer and
the stalks at the same time become longer and more tender. The
flowering-stems, which would otherwise exhaust the plants, should
be cut off as they make their appearance. To force Rhubarb, the
roots should be taken up with a ball and planted in a hot-house or
a hot-bed.

Stalks (f natural size).

The cultivation of this plant, as
yet unpractised on the Continent,
as far as we know, is of much im-
portance in Great Britain and North
America. Rhubarb will grow in
many kinds of soil ; but the richer
and deeper it is, the finer will be
the quality and size. The situation
should also be moderately dry, or

made so by drainage. It will grow
in clay, peat, or the bog-earth of
the Fens. We have seen it succeed
remarkably well in mud cleaned out
from a river. When the leaves get
fairly into growth, they need plenty
of food to keep them growing. The
larger the leaves of one season the
stronger will be the crown for

634

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the next ; hence the importance
of rich feeding all through the
growing season. It is a good plan,
in small gardens, to plant Rhubarb
near the depot for house sewage, so
that it may be nourished with this
as well as 'solid manure; 4 ft., at
least, of a rich root-run should be
provided for it. For new planta-
tions the ground should be thor-
oughly trenched and manured. Its
productive force should be kept up
afterwards by an annual dressing,
from 2 to 3 in. in thickness.

No plant is more easily increased
and multiplied than Rhubarb ; plants
two or more years old seed freely if
permitted to do so. Unless seed be
required, however, they should not
be allowed to do so, as seed-bearing
weakens the crowns. The seeds
ripen about the end of September,
and may be sown at once in shallow
drills a yard apart, or they may be
sown in February. As soon as
they are well up, thin the plants to
1 8 in. or 2 ft. asunder, according to
the size of the kind and the inten-
tion of the cultivator. If intended
to remain where they are, a yard
apart is close enough — indeed, too
close for some varieties. Some,
however, prefer rows 2 ft. apart,
and thinning the plants to i ft. only
the first season : then in the October
or February following fresh ground
is prepared, and the Victoria trans-
planted at distances of from 4 to
6 ft. by 4 ft., and the Defiance 3 ft.
by 1 8 in. or 2 ft. The best plan is
to sow Rhubarb where it is to remain,
as it forms immense roots that are*
easily broken, — and to break it is to
injure it more or less. Nevertheless,
a very common mode of propagating
Rhubarb is by root division. The
huge stool or fleshy root is sliced into
as many portions as there are crowns
to it with a sharp knife or spade,
and each slice forms a new plant.

Gathering Rhubarb, and when
to cease gathering, are matters
which require more attention than
they generally receive. In gather-
ing, the proper method is to give
the leaf-stalk a twist outward, and
a sudden jerk down at the same
moment. From want of attention
to this, many tear off the crown
with the base of the leaf-stalk.
Again, too many leaves should
not be gathered at once. If a
plant have only a dozen leaves,
do not gather more than six of
them, and let these be the lowest.
Some prefer Rhubarb when the
leaves are freshly unrolled, others
when they are half-grown, and
others when they are fully grown.
Of course there is great waste if
the stalks be gathered before they
have reached their full length.
Rhubarb is at its best just when the
leaf has reached full size. It can
hardly be too old for preserving,
and is seldom gathered till the end
of August for that purpose. As
to the time of ceasing to gather
Rhubarb, it should Certainly be not
later than August if the gathering is
to be annual : this leaves but little
time for the last leaves to ripen
good crowns for the next year's
crop. All the leaves removed have
doubtless been a loss to the plant :
they did much to weaken and
nothing to strengthen it ; it is only
the leaves left on that recoup it for
its loss in those taken off. Hence
the importance of rich food to
replenish the plant, and time for
the maturation of the later growth ;
and it need hardly be said that no
weed must be permitted to grow at
the expense of the Rhubarb-plants.

There are various ways of forcing
this useful plant, which may briefly
be divided into two distinct
methods, No. i consisting of lifting
the roots and placing them in arti-

RHUBARB

635

ficially heated structures ; or No. 2,
by covering the crowns where they
are grown with pots or boxes, and
applying fermenting material, com-
posed of stable litter, leaves, etc.,
or, in fact, anything that will
generate warmth enough to excite
growth. There is much to be said
in favour of both systems, for they
are both good under certain con-
ditions, and gardeners in private
gardens, as a rule, find lifting the
roots and placing them in heat the
best plan for the earliest crops
during December and January ; for
where heated glass structures are in
use, a supply of Rhubarb may be
procured without any additional
outlay, or even occupy ing any space
useful for any other purpose, as
under stages, or in the boiler-shed,
or, in fact, any position near the
hot pipes. The roots may be placed
on the floor, or in pots or boxes,
and covered with soil, keeping it
moist, and the crowns may be
covered with hay, fern fronds, or
litter, to blanch it. The only objec-
tion to this plan is that it weakens
the crowns more than by forcing
them in the ground, as the roots
get very much mutilated in removal,
so that if the quantity of Rhubarb
roots is limited, it is preferable to
adopt the plan of forcing the roots
where they are grown. Procure
the requisite number of pots with
movable covers, and place them
over the crowns; then cover them
over with fresh stable litter, or a
coating of leaves and litter mixed
together. The leaves of deciduous
trees are most useful for many pur-
poses, as they can be used for
forwarding crops of Rhubarb and
then placed in pits or frames
for supplying bottom heat for
Cucumbers and other early crops.
To have Rhubarb fit for use at
Christmas, cover the crowns in the

middle of November, and as soon
as the first batch gets fairly started
into growth, cover a few more pots
in succession, until it comes on
naturally in March, when any large
tubs or boxes turned over the
crowns to shelter from cold winds
will forward the growth at least a
fortnight before the crowns left un-
covered. Rhubarb, unlike many
other crops, is better when forced
than from the open air, being more
tender and succulent.

MARKET-GARDEN CULTURE. —
Rhubarb forcing in market-gardens
is very simple, and is done in hot-
beds covered with hoops and mats.
In making young plantations, the
sets are sometimes planted about
1 8 in. apart each way: and, at
forcing time, every other row, and
the alternate plants in the row left,
are lifted for forcing ; old planta-
tions, too, are cleared entirely for
forcing. The leaves will be decayed
enough to be raked off by the
middle of October, by which time
the first portion is usually lifted for
forcing. For this purpose trenches
are cast out, about 4 ft. wide and
2 ft. deep, and filled with fermenting
manure. Over this a thin layer of
common soil is placed, and in it the
crowns, after being trimmed of some
of their rougher roots, are planted.
Over the crowns some loose litter
is strewed, and then the beds are
hooped over and covered with mats,
over which another layer of straw
or litter is placed during winter.
In the outside covering, apertures
are made at gathering time, and
closed again when done. In
February, if the weather be mild,
the hoops and mats are commonly
dispensed with. In some gardens
excellent Rhubarb is produced in
pits, with some heating material
underneath, and some loose straw
merely shaken loosely over the

636 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

roots. Some force Rhubarb in fruit- produce comes naturally fit for use

houses ; the roots are packed closely about a week sooner than from the

together on the floors, a little leaf- open field. In making permanent

mould or other soil is cast over plantations, divisions of the old

them, and they are afterwards stools are used, and they are planted

covered with mats, which remain in rows 2§ or 3 ft. apart, and from

on them until the stalks are fit to 2 to 2\ ft. asunder in the rows,

gather. Rhubarb forced in this way No leaves are cut away from them

is not so good in colour as that pro- the first year, but the space between

duced in darker places, and which the lines is planted with Lettuces

we see in the markets early in the or Coleworts. During the second

season ; but it is greatly superior to season many stalks are not cut,

it in flavour. but in the third year a fair crop is

Whole fields in Surrey are de- gathered. As soon as time can be

voted to Rhubarb culture, but the spared in winter, and before the

bulk of it from London market- leaves begin to grow, the ground

gardens is grown under fruit-trees — between the rows is dug over

positions in which it grows well, roughly, and a large forkful of

In spring, when the produce is most rank litter placed over each crown,

wanted, the trees are leafless, and Under the litter the stalks come up

therefore they do not shade it much, clean, tender, and crisp — very much

but afford slight protection, and the more so than if none were used.

USES. — The fleshy stalks are used for making tarts, pies, and
preserves, especially in England and America.

The following are the principal varieties which are considered
to be derived from Rheum kybridum :

Early Red Tobolsk Rhubarb. — A very early spring variety,
and the best for forcing. Leaves rather small, heart-shaped, with
short, blunt point, broadly waved at the edges, very glossy, and
clear green. Stalks short in length, about two-thirds of the blade,
smooth, and all red. Flowers abundantly, the flower-stalks green,
thin, with erect branches.

Hybrid Florentin. — A cross between Rheum officinale and
Rheum CoKmanum, remarkable for the great size of its leaves,
often 3 ft. in length, as also its floral stalks, usually from 6 to 9 ft.
high, and covered during summer with innumerable dark red
flowers. Recommendable for its hardiness and the thickness of
its leaf-stalks, which are round and without grooves, tinged red
at the base, and blotched red for the rest. Not only a valuable
vegetable, but also a highly ornamental plant.

Hawke's Champagne. — This has now become the favourite
sort in the London market-gardens. Comes early into use. Stalks
of a deep crimson colour, large, and of fine quality ; leaves deep
green, slightly pubescent, the younger ones having an almost heavy
appearance.

Mitchell's Royal Albert (Early RecT).—A very early variety,
with thick long stalks of excellent flavour, equal in length (when

RHUBARB 637

not drawn) to three-fourths of the length of the blade of the leaf,
plentifully spotted with red over their entire surface, and more
angular than channelled. Leaves heart-shaped, broad, with blister-
like swellings on the upper surface, but not much crumpled ; blade
of the leaf light green and smooth. This variety flowers abundantly,
and has a very thick, smooth, and very branching flower-stem, of a
uniform green colour.

Myatt's Linnaeus. — A second-early sort, resembling Royal
Albert, but a much larger and stronger grower. Stalks deep
green, rounded, good in quality.

Myatt's Victoria. — A later kind than Royal Albert.
Stalks red, very thick, considerably longer than the blade of the
leaf, channelled underneath, and of good quality ; leaves broader
than long, heart-shaped or rounded, pointless, very wavy at the
edges, very much crumpled, and a rather dark and glaucous green.
This variety flowers very scantily.

Stott's Monarch. — A giant variety, greatly recommended by
some for its fine quality, and excellent for preserving. Leaves
heart-shaped, over 3 ft. long, and nearly the same in breadth, with
a dark green, even-surfaced blade ; stalks exceedingly thick, scarcely
half the length of the blade, but 3 or 4 in. broad, and of a somewhat
bronzy green colour. Flowers very seldom.*

The Rheum undulatum of North America is sometimes culti-
vated as a vegetable. This is a distinct and early species, and not
so acid as other kinds. The leaves are light green colour, very
wavy at the edges, rather long, heart shape, but almost blunt ;
stalks slender, about as long as the blade of the leaf, smooth, and
green, except at the base, which is tinged with red ; flower-stems
very numerous, a uniform pale green, and with erect branches.

The other cultivated kinds of Rhubarb are grown for ornament
or for medicinal purposes, but are not suited for the kitchen-
garden. A description of them will be found in " Les Fleurs
de Pleine Terre." The finest of them are R/teum officinale, H. Bn. ;
Rheum Emodi, Wall. ; and Rheum palmatum, L., with its variety,
Rtieump. Tanghuticum.

ROCKET-SALAD

Eruca sativa. Lank. ; Brassica Eruca, L. Cruciferce.

French, Roquette. German, Rauke. Flemish, Krapkool. Dutch, Rakette kruid.
Italian, Ricola, Ruchetta. Spanish, Jaramago. Portuguese, Pinchao.

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — A low-growing plant, with

the radical leaves thick, oblong, and divided like the leaves of

Radishes or Turnips into several segments, of which the terminal

one is oval and much larger than the others. Stem erect, smooth.

* Daw's Champion, see p. 773.

638

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

and branching ; flowers rather large, white, or yellow, veined with

violet ; seed-vessels cylindrical, with three not very prominent ribs

on each side ; seeds brown,
smooth, and somewhat flat-
tened. Their germinating
power lasts for four years.

CULTURE.— -The seed is
sown in the open ground from
April to the end of summer,
and in about six weeks or
two months the leaves may
commence to be cut. In spring
or autumn fresh leaves are
abundantly produced after
cutting. In summer the plants
run to seed rapidly. Frequent
waterings are useful in keeping
the leaves tender, and in
Rocket-salad (* natural size). modifying the flavour, which

is very strong and somewhat

like that of the Scurvy-grass. The young leaves are eaten as

salad.

TURKISH ROCKET

Bunias orientalisy L. Cruciferce.

Native of Western Asia, but naturalised in France. — Perennial. —
A hardy and very long-lived plant, with numerous, entire, long leaves,
in shape something like those of the Horse-radish. Stem about 3 ft.
high, very much branched ; flowers yellow, and like those of the
Mustard-plant; seed-vessels hard, very short, like those of the Chick-
pea, but smaller. Their germinating power lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — This plant is as easily grown as the Chicory. The
seed is sown in drills in autumn or spring, and the plants will
continue vigorous and productive for several years.

USES. — The young and tender leaves and shoots are eaten
either boiled or as salad. This plant has been highly spoken of as
a kitchen-garden plant. It commences to grow very early in spring,
when other fresh green vegetables are scarce, resisting both cold
weather and drought well.

ROSEMARY

Rosmarinus officinalis, L. Labiates

French, Romarin. German, Rosmarin. Flemish and Dutch, Rozemarijn. Danish,
Rosmarin. Italian, Rosmarino. Spanish, Romero. Portuguese, Alecrim.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — An under-shrub, common
on the calcareous hills of the south of France and in the vicinity of

ROSEMARY

639

the sea-coast. Stem branching, woody, with erect branches bear-
ing an abundance of linear-obtuse leaves, of a lively green colour
on the upper surface and
silvery gray underneath ;
flowers axillary, forming
long leafy clusters on the
upper part of the stems,
labiate, and of a gray-
blue ; seeds light brown,
oval, with a large white
hilum at one end. Their
germinating power lasts
for four years.

CULTURE. — The
Rosemary does not re-
quire any culture. Tufts
of it planted in good,
well-drained soil, and, if
possible, at the foot of a
south wall, or on a slope
with a southern aspect, will

Rosemary (T^ natural size; detached branch,
5 natural size ; detached flower, natural size).

continue productive for many years without requiring any attention.
USES. — The leaves are used for seasoning.

RUE

Ruta graveolens> L. Rutacece.

French, Rue. German, Raute. Dutch, Wijnruit. Spanish, Ruda.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A plant growing from
16 in. to 2 ft. high and forming a small round bush. Stem woody,
very much branched ; leaves all stalked, twice or thrice divided,
and winged ; divisions almost triangular, or, oval-obtuse ; flowers
large, with four yellow petals of a green colour, produced in short,
corymbose, terminal clusters ; seed-vessels rounded, four or five
lobed ; seeds black, crescent-shaped or kidney-shaped. Their ger-
minating power lasts for two years.

CULTURE. — This plant is easily propagated in spring from seed,
or from divisions of the tufts, which, as soon as they are well rooted,
are planted out 20 in. apart in every direction in good and well-
drained, rather than moist, soil, where they may live for many years
without requiring any care. Cut the plants short every two or three
years in order to promote the growth of young stems.

USES. — The leaves, which have an exceedingly strong odour,
very disagreeable to most people, are sometimes used for seasoning.
They are bitter and very pungent. In old cookery books Rue is
frequently mentioned amongst the seasonings in common use.

640

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

RUSH-NUT, or CHUFA
Cyperus rotundus, L. ; C. esculentus, Gouan. Cyperacea.

French, Souchet comestible. German, Erdmandel. Flemish, Aardmandel.
Italian, Mandorla di terra. Spanish, Chufa.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A plant forming tufts of
stiff, pointed, almost triangular, leaves, like those of most plants of

the Cyperacece family. Roots
brown, very numerous,
tangled, and intermixed
with underground shoots,
which are swollen into a
kind of small, scaly, brown
tubers, with white, floury,
sweet flesh.

CULTURE.— The plant
is propagated in April or
May, either from the tubers,
or from divisions of the tufts.
The divisions so planted
increase in size, and spread
very much during the
summer, and the tubers or
" nuts " are gathered in
October or November.
They may be easily kept all through the winter, if stored in a dry
place, sheltered from frost, and in drying become sweeter and more
agreeable to the taste than when eaten freshly gathered. The
tubers are eaten raw or parched.

Rush-nut, or Chufa (TV natural size
detached nut, natural size).

SAFFRON-PLANT
Crocus sativuSy L. ItidacecR*

French^ Safran. German, Safranpflanze. Italian, Zafferano. Spanish, Azafran.

Native of the East. — Perennial. — A bulbous plant, with long,
narrow leaves, like those of a Grass, glistening and dark green,
with a white line running lengthways down the middle. Flowers
violet, very long ovoid, and not much opened at the mouth ; pistils
extremely large, divided into numerous strips, and of a handsome
orange or saffron colour. Their weight causes them to droop over
the side of the flower, which produces a rather peculiar effect. The
bulbs or corms are covered with brown, wrinkled coats.

CULTURE. — The Saffron-plant is not propagated from seed,
although it occasionally bears some, but is always multiplied by
means of the bulbs or corms. These are planted from June to
August, in good, free, light soil, containing, if possible, a large

SAFFRON-PLANT

641

proportion of calcareous matter, and in a position well exposed

to air and sunshine. The flowers bloom in September ; they are

gathered as soon as they open, and the

pistils are picked off with the hand.

The cultivation and preparation of

Saffron require an enormous amount of

manual labour, and, consequently, the

plant is very little grown for economic

purposes in gardens.

USES. — The pistils, when dried, are
used for flavouring and colouring certain
dishes. Saffron, being expensive in pro-
portion to its purity, is often adulterated
with Turmeric, which is obtained by
pulverising old roots of Curcuma longa*
an East Indian plant of the Zingiberacece

Saffron-plant (§ natural size).

or Ginger family, and is of a deep yellow colour, with a slightly
peppery and aromatic flavour.

SAGE
Salvia officinalis, L. Labiates.

French, Sauge officinale. German, Edel-Salbei. Flemish and Dutch, Salie.
Italian and Spanish, Salvia. Portuguese^ Molho.

Native of South Europe.— Perennial. — A plant with an almost

woody stem, at least at
the base, and forming
broad tufts seldom more
than 14 to 1 6 in. high.
Leaves very pale green,
oval, toothed, very finely
reticulated, and wrinkled ;
lower leaves narrowed
into a stalk, upper or
stem-leaves narrow and
long pointed ; flowers in
heads of three or four, in
terminal clusters, usually-
bluish lilac, sometimes
white or pink ; seeds
nearly spherical, and of
a blackish brown colour.
Their germinating power
J lasts for three years.

CULTURE --The

Sage-plant is as easily

Sage G natural size). grown as Thyme. The

41

642

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

seed is sown in spring or autumn, in rows or as edgings, which will
last for many years without attention. Care should be taken, how-
ever, to have the plants in a well-drained and rather dry position,
for the plant is a native of Southern Europe, and grows naturally
on dry, calcareous hills. Nevertheless, it withstands our ordinary
winters. The leaves are used for seasoning.

SALSAFY, or VEGETABLE OYSTER

Tragopogon porrifolius, L. Composites.

French^ Salsifis. German, Haferwurzel. Flemish, Haverwortel. Danish, Havrerod.
Italian, Barba di becco. Spanish, Salsifi bianco. Portuguese, Cercifi.

Native of Europe. — Biennial. — A plant with a long, fleshy tap-
root, 6 to 8 in. in length, and I in. or less in diameter, with a
yellow, rather smooth skin. Leaves straight,
very long and narrow, half-spreading at first,
afterwards erect, somewhat glaucous and
gray-green, with a white line running through
the middle ; stem smooth, branching, 3 ft.
or more high ; flower-heads terminal, much
elongated, swollen at the base, and contracted
at the top at the time of blooming ; florets
violet ; seeds long, generally curved, pointed
at both ends, and with the whole surface
furrowed and wrinkled. Their germinating
power lasts two years for certain, and often
continues longer.

Mammoth Sandwich Island Salsafy. —
A valuable improvement on the Common
Salsafy just described. The roots are thicker,
shorter, grayer ; the leaves larger and greener;
the flowers larger and purple-red. Yields
very little seed.

CULTURE. — The seed is sown in spring,
where the plants are to stand, in drills 10 to
12 in. apart. If the weather is dry at the
time of sowing, the drills should be watered
a few times to assist the germination, which
is always somewhat uncertain. The seedlings
should be thinned out to about 4 in. apart
in the drills, and the hoe and the watering-
pot should be used when necessary. The
roots may be gathered for use about October, and will yield a
supply all through the winter. They are always finer and smoother
if the ground has been well dug and prepared before sowing.

Salsafy, or Vegetable
Oyster (^ natural size).

SALSAFY, OR VEGETABLE OYSTER

643

USES. —The roots are sent to table boiled, and the tenderest
leaves form a very good salad.

In some parts a yellow-flowered variety of Salsafy is grown,
which probably originated from a botanical species different from
T. porrifolius. This might be either T. pralensis, L., which is
common in meadows throughout the whole of France, or T.
orientalis, which is larger than T. pratensis in all its parts, and
consequently comes nearer to the size of the cultivated plant ; or it
might be T. Major, Jacq., which in all respects, except the colour
of the flowers, resembles the Common Salsafy (T. porrifolius). It
appears certain, moreover, that T. porrifolius itself was first brought
into cultivation at a comparatively recent date.

SAMPHIRE
Crithmwn maritimum, L. Umbcttifcra.

French, Perce-pierre. German, Meer-FencheL Flemish and Dutch, Zeevenkel.
Italian, Bacicci. Spanish, Hinojo marino. Portuguese, Funcho marine.

Native of Europe, including Great Britain. — Perennial-
Samphire usually grows on rocks or the steep sides of cliffs by the
seaside, but always above
high-water mark of the
highest tides. It is a
plant with a creeping
root-stock ; the stems are
short and stout, finely
striated, and often
branched, the branches
being very widely forked.
The leaves are twice and
thrice divided into linear,
thick, swollen, fleshy seg-
ments. Flowers small,
whitish, in terminal
umbels ; seeds oblong,
elliptical, yellow, flattened
on one side, and convex,
with three prominent ribs
on the other ; remarkably
light for their size. Their germinating power is quite gone after
the first year. By the seashores the Samphire is gathered from the
rocks where it grows naturally, but it may be grown in gardens by
sowing the seed in autumn, as soon as it ripens, in good, light, well-
drained soil. It is advisable to cover the seedlings in the winter
with some protection from frost, to which the plants are rathei

Samphire (^ natural size).

644

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

sensitive. It grows still better when planted in crevices at the
bottom of a wall with a warm aspect. The leaves are pickled in
vinegar and used as a seasoning.

SUMMER SAVORY

Satureia hortensis, L. Labiates.

French, Sarriette annuelle. German, Bohnenkraut. Flemish and Dutch, Boonenkruid.
Danish, Sar. Italian, Santoreggia. Spanish, Ajedrea comun. Portuguese, Segurelha.

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — A small-sized plant, 8 to
10 in. high, with an erect, branching, herbaceous stem. Leaves

soft, linear, slightly obtuse,
and narrrowed into a short
leaf-stalk ; flowers pink or
white, borne in clusters of
from two to five ; seeds
brown, ovoid, very finely
granulated. Their germi-
nating power lasts for three
years. The seed of the
Summer Savory is sown in
the? latter end of April, or
in May, in good, warm,
light soil ; or plants may
be forwarded by sowing in
March in a hot-bed, and
planting out in the open
air about the end of May.
In June the ends of the
stems may be gathered for
use ; the plants then form

Summer Savory (^Uiral^e; detached branch, branches> and continue to

produce new shcots for

several weeks. The leaves and young shoots are used for
flavouring.

WINTER SAVORY

Satureia montana, L.

French, Sarriette vivace. German, Perennirendes oder Winter-Bohnenkraut.
Spanish, Hisopillo.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A low-growing plant,
spreading on the ground. Stems woody, at least at the base,
slender, very branching, and from I ft. to 16 in. high ; leaves
narrow, linear, very acute, and slightly channelled on the upper
surface ; flowers white, pink, or pale lilac, in small axillary clusters ;
lower lip divided into three segments ; seeds brown, triangular-ovoid
in shape, and very finely shagreened. Their germinating power

WINTER SAVORY

645

lasts for three years on an
average. The seed may be
sown in spring or the latter
end of summer, on the edges
of beds of other vegetables,
or in drills 14 to 1 6 in. apart.
The plant is sufficiently
hardy to withstand ordinary
winters in the climate of
Paris, provided it is grown
in well-drained soil free
from stagnant moisture. It
requires no attention ; but
if the stems are cut down
every spring to about 4 in.
from the ground, a much
more abundant supply of
vigorous young shoots will
be produced. The leaves

Scorzonera,

Winter Savory (% natural size ; detached
branch, natural size).

and young shoots are used for
flavouring, like those of the Summer
Savory.

SCORZONERA

Scorzonera hispanica, L. Composites.

French, Scorsonere. German, Scorsoner, Schwarz
wurzel. Flemish and Dutch, Schorseneel.
Danish, Schorsenerrod. Italian, Scorzonera.
Spanish, Escorzonera. Portuguese, Escor-
cioneira.

Native of Spain. — Perennial. —
This plant is cultivated as an annual
or a biennial. It has a fleshy tap-root,
resembling that of the Salsafy in size
and flavour, but distinguished from
it by the black colour of the skin.
The leaves also of the Scorzonera
are much broader than those of the
Salsafy ; they are lanceolate-oblong
and pointed ; the stem-leaves are
sessile and are also of some breadth.
Flowers bright yellow ; seeds white,
smooth, very long, blunt at one end
and more or less pointed at the other.
Their germinating power lasts for
two years at least. The Scorzonera
is grown in exactly the same manner

646

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

as the Salsafy. After the first year's growth, the roots will continue
to increase in size without becoming less fit for use, even though
the plants may have produced some stems and flowers in the
course of the summer. The roots are eaten boiled, like those of
the Salsafy ; the leaves also may be used as salad.

FRENCH SCORZONERA

Scorzonera picroides, L. ; Picridium vulgare, Desf. Composites.
French, Picridie cultivee. Italian, Caccialepre.

Native of South Europe. — Annual. — Radical leaves sinuated,
or cut into entire or toothed lobes, generally obtuse, and forming a
rather full rosette 10 to 12 in. in diameter. Stems numerous,
branching, smooth, bearing a few long, narrow leaves, which are
clasping at the base and usually toothed ; flower-heads terminal,
largish, swollen at the base, and composed of yellow florets ; seed
brown, small, long, marked with four furrows and four prominent
transversely notched ridges. Its germinating power lasts for five
years. It is sown in drills like Parsley or Chicory, and the leaves
are cut for use as small green salad, like Chicory. After being cut,
the plants send out fresh leaves, and several successive cuttings
may be made in the course of the season. In hot weather frequent
waterings are serviceable. The young leaves are used as salad,
especially in Italy.

SCURVY-GRASS

Cochlearia officinalis, L. Cruciferce.

French, Cochlearia officinal. German, Loffelkraut. Flemish, Lepelkruyd. Dutch, Lepel-
blad. Danish, Kokleare. Italian and Spanish, Coclearia. Portuguese, Cochlearia.

Native of Europe. —
Perennial, but cultivated
as an annual. — This plant
has some resemblance to
the Water-cress. Leaves
rounded, numerous, shining,
and dark green ; radical
leaves long - stalked and
heart-shaped ; stem-leaves
sessile, oblong, and more
stems
small

white flowers ; seeds small,
oval, slightly angular, rough
skinned, and red-brown in
colour. Their germinating
power lasts for four years.
Scurvy-grass (,& natural size). All the green parts have

or less toothed ;
numerous, bearing

SCURVY-GRASS

647

a strong acrid taste and a very tarry flavour. The seed is sown
where the plants are to stand, and, if possible, in a cool, shady
position. Scurvy-grass requires no special attention. The leaves
are sometimes eaten as salad, but the plant is more usually grown
for medicinal purposes, its anti-scorbutic properties being well
known.

SEA-KALE

Crambe maritima, L. Crucifera.

French, Crambe. German, Meer-oder See- Kohl. Flemish and Dutch, Zeekool.
Danish, Strand-kaal. Spanish^ Soldanela maritima.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves broad, thick, fringed,
often twisted and cut at the edges into rounded segments, and a
very peculiar glaucous
green, almost the same on
both sides of the leaf;
stems stout, branching,
from 20 in. to 2 ft. high ;
flowers very numerous,
white, and broad, suc-
ceeded by seed-vessels
which are almost spherical,
a little less than f in. in
diameter, white, rather
hard, never opening when
ripe, and each containing
only a single seed. The
germinating power of the
seed declines rapidly after
the first year.

The Sea-kale, which
is found in the wild state
on most of the sea coasts
of Western Europe, is very
little used as a vegetable
in France, although it has Sea'kale (* natural size>-

been for many years extensively cultivated in England. The
leaf-stalks of the plant are prepared for table use by blanching in a
dark place, by which means tender shoots of an agreeable flavour
and only a slightly bitter taste are obtained, whereas if grown
exposed to the light they become intolerably acrid.

CULTURE. — Sea-kale may be propagated either from divisions
or cuttings of the root or from seed. By the first-named method, in
February or early in March, the roots of old plants are cut into
pieces about 4 in. long, which are at once planted, where the crop is

648 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

to stand, in good, well-dug, and well-manured soil, and at a distance
of 2 ft. 8 in. from one another in every direction, as the plants grow
to a pretty large size. In the first year the young plants attain a
certain degree of strength, and may be cut for use in the ensuing
winter, if a supply is badly needed. It is better, however, not to
commence cutting until the second year. In raising plants from
seed, the seed is sown either in a seed-bed or where the plants are
to stand. In either case, it should be sown as soon as possible
after it ripens and without being shelled. When the young plants
in the seed-bed have made four or five leaves, they are planted out
permanently, at the same distance from one another as the cuttings
of the roots above mentioned. In sowing where the plants are to
stand, the seed is placed in holes or pockets, which also should
be the same distance apart as the root-cuttings. These pockets
should be well filled with compost, and the ground should be kept
very free from weeds. The growing plants should be frequently
watered until they have attained their full size. When they are
sufficiently strong, and out of danger from the black flea {Haltica
nemorum)y all the seedlings in each pocket are pulled up except the
strongest one, which is left to grow, and during the remainder of
the year and the whole of the following years the plants are treated
in exactly the same way as plants raised from root-cuttings. They
will not be fit to cut for use until the spring of the third year, and
after that they will continue to bear for eight or ten years.

In order to blanch Sea-kale, each crown of the plant is covered
with an inverted flower-pot, care being taken to stop the hole in the
bottom so as to entirely exclude the light, and the pot is also more
or less covered with soil or dry leaves. If it is desired to force the
plants, the pots should be completely covered with suitable manure,
and in a few weeks the shoots will be sufficiently grown for use.
In gathering them, there need be no hesitation in cutting them at
some distance below the blanched part, as the root-stock has always
a tendency to grow overground. Plants may also be forced in a
hot-house, hot-bed, or any other place supplying artificial heat.
For this purpose the plants are taken up entire, and replanted close
to one another in fresh sand. As with plants grown in the open
air, the shoots should be covered, either with more sand, or in any
other way so as to exclude the light. Care should be taken to
cover the plants with soil every year, to prevent the roots from
becoming bared. In order to maintain the vigour of the plants,
some shoots should be left uncut on each plant, and these should
not be allowed to flower, as the plant would thereby be more or less
exhausted for nothing. It is advisable to go over the plants every
autumn and remove all dead leaves and weak and superfluous
shoots, and also to spread some light soil or compost over any parts
of the ground where the roots of the plants are becoming bared.

SEA-KALE

649

As the Sea-kale is a seaside plant, a little common salt, mixed with
the soil, can hardly fail to be beneficial to its growth.

Like Rhubarb, the use of Sea-
kale is at present almost confined to
the English people at home and
abroad. It has gone to America
and the antipodes, but has not
crossed the Channel ! We speak of
its general use — in a few gardens in
France it may be seen, but they
belong to those who have learned to
care for the plant in England or who
have English gardeners.

Forced Sea-kale fit for use can
be had early in December, and by
growing a sufficient number of
plants a constant supply may be
maintained till late in the spring.
The stock of roots may either be
grown from seed sown in the spring,
or by selecting roots from plants
lifted in the autumn to be prepared
for forcing, which may be easily
accomplished in any warm structure
kept dark for blanching purposes.
Seeds of Sea-kale may be sown in
March or early April, in drills 9 in.
apart, or broadcast upon beds 4 ft.
wide, covering them with fine soil.
When large enough, the young plants
should be thinned out to several
inches apart to afford ample room
for growth. The following spring
they will be large enough to trans-
plant into a piece of ground deeply
trenched and dressed with rotten
farmyard manure. Some time in
March lift the plants carefully with
a fork, and plant them in rows 12 in.
asunder and 9 in. plant from plant,
i.e. when grown for lifting in autumn
for forcing. But if to be planted to
make stools for forcing in the open
air — which may be done by covering
them with hot manure and leaves —
plant the rows 3 ft. apart and 2 J ft.
clump from clump. This will give
plenty of room to cover the plants
with heating material. Three or

four plants may be placed in each
clump, allowing 3 or 4 in. between
each plant. Take care that the
plants are 3 in. clear of the rims of
the Sea-kale pots which are placed
over them when ready for forcing.
Where the plants are grown from
roots or thongs, when lifted in
autumn for forcing, the strongest
should be selected; but where the
stock of roots is scarce, thongs may
be used about the thickness of a
quill pen, when they will be strong
enough to force the following spring.
Cut the roots 9 in. in length, leaving
the top or thick end level, and the
thin end slanting about | in., when
it will emit a number of fibres. Tie
the roots thus prepared in bundles,
and lay them in some fine sandy
soil, covering them 2 in. in thickness.
Ground intended for Sea-kale
should be deeply trenched during
autumn, and enriched by several
inches in thickness of rotten manure.
If ridged as the trenching proceeds,,
the ridges must be levelled down in
spring before planting. Early in
April is a good time to plant the
roots or thongs; they will then be
found to have formed crowns, and
will be pushing out young fibres.
Rake the ground level after levelling
down the ridges, tread it firmly,
and plant the sets in rows 12 in.
asunder and 9 in. plant from plant.
The ground will require to be fre-
quently hoed between the plants
during summer to keep down weeds
and the surface open. Liquid
manure will be found of great
benefit to the plants during summer, .
and if at hand, a dressing of artificial
manure may be given, for by feeding
well during the growing season fine
strong roots will be the result. As
soon as frost kills the leaves irx

650

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

autumn the plants intended to be
lifted for forcing should be taken up
and laid in some light soil. Open
a trench at one end of the plantation
and lift the plants, with as many
roots attached to them as possible.
After taking off the thongs for next
year's crop, lay the roots in some
light dry soil, covering their crowns
over with some dry litter to keep
frost from them. Thus a few roots
may be had during winter for forcing
when required. From 55° to 60°
will be heat enough, and the roots
may be planted either in large
flower-pots or boxes. If in pots,
invert another the same size over
the one in which the roots are
planted. Thus circumstanced and
placed in the temperature just
named, fine, crisp, well-blanched
Kale will be produced. If required
soon after being put in warmth,
place a few barrow-loads of hot
manure in the house, and on that
set the pots. The warmth induces
quick growth and superior heads.
If in boxes, they should be deep
enough for the roots to stand upright,
and there should be depth for the
Kale to grow to its full length before
it reaches the lid of the box.

If more convenient, the roots may
be planted in light soil in the Mush-
room - house, covering them over
with some light material to keep the
crowns in darkness. Fine crops
may also be grown upon ordinary
hot-beds covered with frames and
wooden sashes ; if glass sashes are
used, they must be covered with
straw and double mats to exclude
light and keep the temperature of
the frames equable, i.e. about 60°.
The roots may be planted in light
soil or in pots placed upon the
heated material, which should be
covered with sifted ashes or some
light material to keep down the rank
.steam. Where Kale is required in

large quantities, a Cucumber or
Melon-house with bottom heat at
command will be found to be one of
the best structures in which to pro-
duce it. Put a few inches of soil
over the slates or boards forming
the bottom over the pipes or hot-
water tank ; in this set the roots
upright several inches apart, running
some soil in between them, and
water well, and as soon as the
crowns show signs of growth, give
another soaking, and cover them to
the depth of 9 in. or i ft. with dry,
sifted leaf-mould or cocoa-nut fibre.
Thus treated, in a very short time
the tips of the leaves will appear
above the covering, when the Kale
will be fit for use.

When forced in the open air, Sea-
kale pots or boxes having wooden
covers must be placed over the
clumps of plants, and the pots or
boxes must be covered with fer-
menting material, consisting of hot
stable manure and leaves well mixed
together. Care must be taken that
the manure does not overheat, or the
crowns will get scorched and the
crop lost for the season. When
planted in rows, if a covering of
ashes or light loose soil is placed
over the crowns from 9 in. to i ft.
in depth just before the crowns
start into growth in spring, the heads
of Kale will grow up through the
covering, and when uncovered the
result is often a very superior crop,
which, being late, is generally very
acceptable, especially if, after a
severe winter, other crops are
scarce.

SEA - KALE ON THE COAST. —

Between Calshot Castle and Leap,
Hampshire, Sea-kale grows wild
luxuriantly on the beach, just above
high-water mark, and those who live
close to the shore claim so much of
it as is opposite their domain. In
autumn, when the stems die down,

SEA-KALE

651

they cover each stool with shingle,
to the depth of 18 in. or so, which
answers two purposes : it keeps the
crown from being trodden underfoot
in winter, and when the Kale com-
mences to grow in spring it blanches
it. The shoots are ready for use
about the middle of March. A good
harvest is made of it when fit to cut,
which is just before it peeps through
the shingle. The latter is carefully
removed by the hand, so as not to
break the tender stalks, which turn
out quite clean and well blanched.
It is sent to Southampton and Cowes,
where it finds a ready market. Al-
though all the crowns are covered at
the same time, they do not all come
in at one time ; for the cutting
generally lasts three weeks. There
is no reason why Sea-kale should
not be grown on the coast in many
places — that is, where any waste
space is left above high water for its
accommodation. Where any beach
exists above high-water mark, seed
may be sown in the following
manner : — With a shovel open a
trench T ft. deep, if shingly ; but, if
sandy, half that depth will do ; sow
the seed in it as you would Peas,
but more thinly ; then fill it up,
which is all that is necessary until
the roots are large enough to be
transplanted, which, if the seed be
sown in March, will be in the suc-
ceeding March. Take the roots up
as carefully as possible, and plant
them four in a g-in. square, leaving
a space of 3 ft. between the squares,
and, if in lines, there should be a
space of 6 ft. between the lines.
When covering the crowns for
blanching, the shingle may be
heaped up over them in ridges
along the lines. This Kale is
generally well blanched, stout in
growth, and in every way excellent ;
when cooked, the flavour is more
delicate than that of ordinary forced

Sea-kale, and it often produces stems
9 in. long, each of which weighs
one pound, and some twenty ounces.
The reason of its quality is the use
of the clean shingle. There is too
much direct use of manure in the
common way of forcing Sea-kale,
and used in a way, too, which can
contribute very little to the nourish-
ment of the plant. Manure is for
the roots, not the tops. Therefore
we prefer the clean forcing which is
possible in any heated and darkened
structure to the old way of piling
fresh manure over the Sea-kale
plot in the garden.

MARKET-GARDEN CULTURE. —
Some growers raise Sea-kale plants
from seed, but the majority pro-
pagate them from root-cuttings. It
is, however, advisable once in every
few years to raise plants from seed
in order to infuse fresh vigour into
the stock. The best way of in-
creasing Sea-kale is from the trim-
mings or cuttings of the fleshy roots
cut away from the plants when they
are lifted for forcing. These thongs
or roots, when removed, are thrown
into a heap in a shed, there to
remain until all the plantations that
are to be lifted for forcing have
been dug up and trimmed. The
best of the trimmings are then
selected, cut up into pieces about
4 in. long, and laid in a heap
by themselves, and the remainder
thrown away. In January beds
are prepared for the cuttings, about
4 ft. in width, any length, and
raised 6 in. higher than the sur-
rounding level, to keep the Sea-kale
roots healthy and free from damp.
The cuttings are laid thickly on the
surface of the bed and covered with
soil. At planting time, which is in
March, the beds are uncovered,
when the roots will have formed
several eyes, all of which are rubbed
off, excepting the strongest top one.

652

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Some growers do not cut the roots
until planting time, but lay them
on the beds as :• elected from the
shed. In March, when the beds
are uncovered, they select the best
eye, then cut the roots at the re-
quired length below it, and rub off
all other eyes, as in the previous
case. The Sea-kale cuttings, being
thus prepared for planting, are in-
serted with iron-shod dibbles into
ground which was well manured
and deeply dug or trenched in
winter, levelled in February, and
lines drawn along it 3 ft. apart and
planted with Cauliflowers, keeping
them at the same distance asunder
in the rows. Between the lines of
Cauliflowers other lines are drawn
precisely in the middle, and in
them are planted White or Green
Paris Cos Lettuces 18 in. apart.
In the rows occupied by the Cauli-
flowers, too, Lettuce-plants are
inserted alternately. A Sea-kale
plant is now placed alternately with
the Lettuces and Cauliflowers, but
in the same lines. The Lettuces
are first ready for market, and are
removed before they injure the
Cauliflowers, which by the end of
June are marketed, leaving the
Sea-kale, which will be coming up
strongly by this time, in sole pos-
session of the soil. Some growers
plant Sea-kale sets 15 to 18 in.
apart amongst spring Cabbages,
which are all removed before they
can materially injure the Sea-kale.
Others plant them between Aspa-
ragus ridges ; but in this case they
must all be lifted at the end of the
first season, as is also the case
when they are planted between fruit
bushes and Moss Roses. Some
market-gardeners who grow roots
for sale plant their sets at 18 in.
apart each way, and never intercrop
the ground amongst them, but take
great care of them ; and, under

such management, they get finer
roots than those produced among
other crops. No care is necessary
among Sea-kale plantations through-
out the summer and autumn, beyond
frequently hoeing the surface soil,
cutting away all flower-spikes, and
rubbing off all small shoots that
may chance to spring around the
main one.

When forcing-time arrives, if the
field is to be kept to yield what is
termed "natural " Kale, i.e. without
being forced in any way, every third
row of roots is lifted as required for
forcing, and thus the rows are left
in pairs with a space of 3 ft. between
them. The surface of the soil is
then raked clean, and from this
wide space the rows are earthed
over to the depth of 6 in. to pre-
vent the frost penetrating the ground
amongst the crowns, and thus ren-
dering it cold and late. The Kale
begins to push about the second
week in March, and, according to the
position of the field and the nature
of the soil and weather, a supply
may be gleaned therefrom till the
end of April. As soon as the point
of a shoot of Kale is discerned above
the ridge, the head is fit for cutting.

For early forcing, the very best
crowns, and such as the leaves die
away from earliest, are selected and
trimmed, so that 4 or 5 in. of the
main stem, with the crown on the
top, only remain. These are then
placed closely together in an upright
position in a hot-bed prepared for
starting them in, which, in the case
of the earliest batch, consists of a
manure-bed covered with frames
and sashes, and a few inches deep
of soil levelled within the frames for
planting the roots amongst. A heat
of 65° or 70° is kept up inside the
frames, if possible, by applying hot
linings of manure and by placing
litter or mats on the surface over

SEA-KALE

653

the glass, which latter also keeps
all dark and blanches the Kale.
Sea-kale growers try to have a good
cutting on Lord Mayor's Day ; but
this is considered too early for
regular forcing.

Regular forcing commences about
the first fortnight in November, and
large trenches or beds, on which
Cucumbers were grown during the
summer, are cleared out and re-
filled with hot manure, over which
8 in. of soil is placed, and therein
the Sea-kale is planted thickly in
lines across the bed, which are about
5 in. apart, and about the same
space for a. margin is left empty on
each side. Amongst the roots, and
all round the beds, rows of stakes
are inserted, 18 in. of their length
being left above the soil, after
which some 6 or 7 in. deep of short
litter is strewed over the whole
surface of the beds, which are then
covered over with mats supported
on the ends of the stakes. Hoops
and mats are often used instead of
stakes. In about three or four
weeks after the beds are made up
cutting begins, when it is necessary
to uncover the beds as the operation
proceeds, drawing the short litter off
the crowns to get at them, and re-
placing it as speedily as possible, as
all the crowns are not fit to cut at
the same time.

Beds for later crops are prepared
on a well-sheltered plot of ground
as near home and the manure-heap
as possible. The ground is marked
off into spaces either 4 or 5 ft. wide,
with alleys 2 ft. wide between them.
These spaces are used as bods, over

which the soil from the alleys is
placed, after finely breaking it, until
the alleys are 20 in. deep. The
Sea-kale crowns are then all lined
into these beds as described in the
case of earlier beds, and thus the
beds are left uncovered until they
are required for forcing ; but, as a
rule, two or more of them are always
being forced, and others started to
succeed them. As these beds have
no bottom-heat, it is not necessary
that they should be immediately
covered, as in that case they, being
incited at the bottom, would grow,
no matter whether their crowns are
cared for or not ; but, in this in-
stance, having no exciting agent,
and being in a dormant state, they
await the grower's convenience. In
forcing them, the alleys between
the beds are firmly filled with fer-
menting manure, and the beds being
covered, as formerly stated, with
short litter and mats supported on
the upright stakes, all is finished.
The Kale takes a longer time to
push into growth by this means
than when forced on a manure-bed,
and it does not come quite so
regularly. This method, however,
has the advantage of less trouble
and risk, and great convenience in
keeping up a supply until it can be
produced from the open-air beds,
after which the forced roots are
removed to a heap by themselves,
or to the piggery, where their
vitality is sure to be destroyed. If
conveyed to a field at once, with the
manure which formed the beds, and
dug in, they would grow again, and
prove a future annoyance.

There are only a few varieties of Sea-kale in cultivation : —
The Common, the young blanched leaves of which have a

purplish tinge when they are exposed to the light.

The Lily white, the young leaves of which do not become

purple, but change to green under similar conditions. In other

respects the two varieties are identical.

654 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The Feltham White, with large leaves, rumpled at the edge and
large white ribs.

Lately a variety of Crambe Tatarica(P) has been advertised
under the name of OvuKusl but it does not appear to be equal to
the above varieties.

USES. — The blanched stalks are eaten boiled, almost in the
same way as Asparagus. When properly cooked, they preserve
all their firmness, and have a very fine and agreeable flavour, like
that of hazel-nuts, with a very slight amount of bitterness.

SHALLOT

A Ilium ascalonicum, L. Liliacece.

French, Echalote. German, Schalotte. Flemish and Dutch, Sjalot. Danish,
Skalottelog. Italian, Scalogno. Spanish, Chalote. Portugitese, Echalota.

Native of Palestine. — Perennial. — Athough botanically very
closely allied to the cultivated Onion, the Shallot, in its manner of
growth, differs from it completely from a horticultural point of
view. It is a plant which seldom produces seed, but has a pro-
fusion of leaves, and its bulbs, when planted in spring, speedily
divide into a great number of cloves, which remain attached to a
common disc, and in a few months become as strong as the parent
bulb. It has been in cultivation from a very remote period, and
there are now several rather distinct forms of it in existence. [It
may be well to note that the plant commonly sent in quantities to
the London market is not the True Shallot, but a small roundish
Onion with a rich brown skin. The true Shallot has a pale gray
skin, and is elongated in shape. — R.]

CULTURE. — The cloves are planted immediately after winter in
good, rich, well-manured soil. Well-rotted farmyard manure suits
the Shallot better than that which is fresh and strawy. It is still
better, when possible, to plant the cloves in ground that was
plentifully manured in the previous year. They should not be
deeply buried, and the cloves of the Common Shallot should be
placed about 4 in. apart. They may be grown either in beds by
themselves, or on the edges of beds containing other vegetables.
When the leaves commence to wither, about July, the tufts of
plants are pulled up and left to dry for a few days, after which
they are divided and the bulbs stored in a dry place. Those bulbs
which are intended for planting may be left in the ground some
time longer.

USES. — The bulbs, which keep for the whole year, are used as
seasoning, and give a more delicate flavour than most Onions.
The leaves are also eaten, cut when they are green.

True Shallot. — Bulb the size of a small Walnut, sometimes
larger, pear-shaped, narrowed in the upper part into a rather long

SHALLOT

655

True Shallot.

point, and covered with a russet-coloured skin, of a coppery red

colour in the lower part, shading off into gray towards the upper

extremity, and often wrinkled lengthways. The outer skin is thick

and tough. When the dried

coats are taken off, the bulb is

greenish at the base, and violet-
coloured at the top. Leaves

small, very green, and 10 to

1 2 in. long. This variety, which

is more extensively grown than

any other, has the advantage

of keeping very well. At the

Central Market, in Paris, some

sub-varieties of it are met with,

viz.—

Echalote Petite Hdtive de

Bagnolet. — Somewhat smaller

than the type or true variety, and produces a great number of

cloves to each plant.

E. Grosse de Noisy. — Bulb the size of a small fig. This variety

keeps well, and has a very thick tough skin. It does not multiply

so much as the other kinds.

E. Hdtive de Niort. — This is somewhat larger than the True

Shallot, which it very much resembles in other respects, but

commences to grow sooner.

It is easy to perceive that these three forms are only slight

modifications of the True Shallot

Jersey, or False, Shallot. — Bulbs short, almost always irregular

in shape, but sometimes perfectly rounded and broader than long,

when they quite resemble a small Onion ; skin coppery red, thin,

and easily torn. The bulb, when stripped of the dried coats, is

entirely violet-coloured, the tint
being somewhat paler than
that of the True Shallot. The
leaves are distinguished by
their very peculiar glaucous
hue. The bulbs do not keep
so well as those of the True
Shallot, and commence to grow
sooner in spring. The Jersey
Shallot flowers and seeds pretty
jersey Shallot. regularly, the seed exactly re-

sembling Onion seed. Indeed,

in all the characteristics of its growth, this plant resembles an

Onion, amongst which it might be classed after the Potato Onion.
Another variety has been mentioned under the name of

656

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Alen$on Shallot, with bulbs still larger than those of the Jersey
Shallot and likewise with glaucous foliage. There is also a variety
of the Jersey Shallot grown with silver-white bulbs, mild, and
agreeable in flavour, but difficult to keep. The Ghent Shallot and
the Russian Shallot differ but little from each other, and resemble
the common Jersey Shallot. They are vigorous-growing plants
with rounded bulbs.

SKIRRET

Sium Sisarum, L. Umbellifera.

French^ Chervis. German, Zuckerwurzel. Flemish, Suikerwortel. Danish, Sukkerrod.
Italian, Sisaro. Spanish, Chirivia tudesca. Portugtiese, Cherivia.

Native of China. — Perennial. — Authors generally concur in
describing the Skirret as a native of China. It was introduced

into France at a very early
period, as it is mentioned by
Oliver de Serres as a plant
commonly cultivated in his
time. He considered it to
be a native of Germany, and
to have been introduced from
that country into Italy by
the Emperor Tiberius. In
any case the plant appears
to have been more generally
cultivated two or three cen-
turies ago than it is at the
present day.

It is a plant with numerous
swollen roots, forming a
bunch from the upper part
of the neck, somewhat like
Dahlia roots, but much longer

natural size; detached roots. , , T

| natural size). an<^ more slender. Leaves

composed of large, shining

dark green leaflets ; stems 3 to 4 ft. high, channelled, smooth,
usually produced in the second year, but often in the first ; flowers
small, white, in umbels ; seeds brown, oblong, curved, often cylin-
drical, and marked with five longitudinal furrows. Their germi-
nating power lasts for three years. Roots grayish white ; flesh firm,
very white, and sweet. The centre of the root consists of a woody
core which, if not removed before cooking, is very detrimental to the
root as a vegetable, and is not easily separated from the fleshy part.
CULTURE. — Skirret may be propagated either from seed, offsets,
or divisions of the roots. The seed is sown in autumn or early in

Skirret

SKIRRET 657

spring. When the seedlings have made four or five leaves, they
are planted out permanently, in good, moist, rich, well-manured
soil, and will commence to yield abundantly in the ensuing
autumn. As the plants delight in abundance of moisture, they
should be plentifully watered all through the summer. Divisions
of the roots or offsets of old plants are planted in March or April,
and the plants raised in this way are treated exactly like those
raised from seed. It has been asserted that the roots of plants
which have been raised from divisions or root-cuttings have the
core less woody than those of plants raised from seed. This,
however, is only true when a careful selection has been made of
the roots used for propagating. Plants raised in the same seed-bed
differ very much from one another in the size of the woody core,
and it is evident that, by means of a judicious selection, the best
may be propagated to the exclusion of all the others. As the
Skirret is a very hardy plant, the roots may be left in the ground
all the winter, and only taken up as they are wanted for use.

USES.— The roots, which are tender, sweet, and slightly floury,
are used in the same manner as Salsafy or Scorzonera roots.

SORREL

Rumex, L. Polygonacea.

French^ Oseille. German, Sauerampfer. Flemish and Dutch, Zuring. Italian, Acetosa.
Spanish, Acedera. Portuguese, Azedas.

Many species of Rumex are cultivated in gardens, all of which
are perennial plants, and characterised by the acidity of their
leaves. Of these, the principal varieties which are grown have
sprung from Rumex Acetosa, R. montanus, R. scutatus, and R.
Patientia, all of which grow wild in France. The garden Sorrels
may be ranked among the plants which have been least modified
by cultivation, as most of them are little, if anything, better than
wild plants of the same species growing under favourable conditions.

COMMON SORREL

Rumex Acetosa, L.

Oseille commune.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — Leaves oblong, hastate at the
base, with long-pointed auricles directed downwards almost parallel
with the leaf-stalk, which is long and channelled ; stem hollow,
striated, and often red ; flowers dioecious, in terminal and lateral
clusters ; seeds small, triangular, brown, and shining. Their
germinating power lasts for four years.

CULTURE. — The plant may be propagated by division of the
tufts in March or April. This method is employed when, for

42

658

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

instance, it is desired to form edgings of male-flowered plants alone,
as these are not liable to be exhausted by bearing seed. The more
usual way is to raise the plants from seed sown in spring, in drills,

and, if possible, in good,
deep, moist soil The seed-
lings, when strong enough,,
are thinned out to the,
distance of 6 to 8 in. from
one another in the drills.
In about two months after
sowing, some leaves will
be fit to gather. Some
persons, when gathering,
cut off the whole plant
with a knife, but the
Parisian market-gardeners,
who are well skilled in
the cultivation of this plant, always gather the leaves one by
one, selecting only those which are fully grown : a more abundant
and continuous supply is obtained in this way than by cutting
off all the leaves, large and small, at the same time. A plantation
of Common Sorrel will last for three or four years ; when its
productiveness begins to decline, new plants, raised either from
seed or divisions of the tufts, should be substituted. The leaves
are very extensively used, and are sent to table boiled.

Broad-leaved French Sorrel (Oseille de Belleville}.— This is
the most extensively grown

Broad-leaved French Sorrel.

the

Common

variety of

Sorrel, and is almost the
only kind cultivated in the
vicinity of Paris. It differs
from the type in the greater
size and paler colour of
its leaves, and comes very
true from seed. The
market - gardeners around
Paris often have whole
fields under this plant, and,
by growing it under frames,
keep up a constant supply
of fresh leaves nearly all
the year through.

White Large-leaved White Large-leaved Sorrel.

Sorrel. — Remarkable for the breadth and size of its
which surpass those of the Belleville Sorrel. The old
Sorrel, though an excellent, white, very early variety,

leaves,.
Virieit
is far

COMMON SORREL 659

from equalling this, both as regards size of the leaves and
productiveness.

The following kinds have also been recommended : —

Lettuce-leaved Sorrel. — A variety with broad, rounded, very
light green leaves.

O. Blonde de Sarcelles. — This kind is distinguished from the
Broad-leaved French Sorrel by having longer leaves, and the
leaf-stalks entirely green, without any tinge of red.

All these varieties, in short, differ very little from one another,
and, when propagated from seed, revert more or less to the Broad-
leaved French Sorrel.

MAIDEN SORREL .
Rumex montanus, Desf. ; Rumex arifolius> All

Oseille vierge.

Native of South Europe.— Perennial. — Leaves oval-oblong,
hastate at the base, almost smooth, rather deep green, with short
auricles of an almost bluntly rounded or shortly pointed shape and
directed outwards ; leaf-stalks pink-coloured at the base ; stem
resembling that of the Common Sorrel ; flowers dioecious, usually
barren. The leaves of this species are rather larger than those of
the Common Sorrel, and not so acid, and the plant is slow in running
to seed. As it is dioecious, it may be employed, like the Common
Sorrel, for making edgings, using male-flowered plants alone. Two
forms of this Sorrel are distinct, viz. the Common or Green-leaved
and the Crimped-leaved Maiden Sorrel ; the leaves of the latter
being larger, slender, very much crimped, and marked with small
red spots on the midrib and larger veins at the lower part of the
stem. The wild form of the Maiden Sorrel (Rumex arifolius) is
often met with in France. It is especially common in the pine
forests on the high mountain districts of Central and Eastern France
from the Vosges to the Alps.

ROUND-LEAVED SORREL

Rumex scutatus, L.
Oseille ronde.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — Peculiar in appearance,
and not to be mistaken for any other Sorrel. The stems are
slender, mostly prostrate, with small gray-green rounded or heart-
shaped leaves, bearing at their base narrow auricles, directed
outwards ; unisexual flowers are produced on the same plant, in
spikes. The leaves are exceedingly acid. Its principal merit being
its resistance to drought, it is usually grown as a summer crop.

660 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

In addition to the foregoing, another species (Rumex alpinus, L.)
is sometimes grown in gardens under the name of Pyrenean
Sorrel. It has soft, wrinkled, reticulated leaves, and is especially
characterised by the width of the sheathing part of the leaf. As
a table vegetable it does not appear to possess any quality in
which it is not surpassed by the Patience Dock, or Herb Patience
(Rumex Patientia\ which see.

WOOD-SORREL

Oxalis Acetoselldy L. Oxalidacece.

French^ Oxalis oseille. Italian, Acetosella. Spanish, Acederilla.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This plant, which grows wild
in woods and cool, shady places, is sometimes gathered and
eaten as salad, the leaves being acid and similar in flavour to
those of the Common Sorrel. It is not often cultivated, and if
any one desires to have a few tufts of it in his garden, the best
way is to dig them up where they grow naturally and transfer
them to a cool, shady part of the garden. By cutting them
frequently a continuous supply of tender leaves may be obtained,
and the plants will also be prevented from seeding. If allowed
to seed, they sometimes multiply to such an extent as to become
troublesome weeds.

Deppe's Wood-sorrel (Oxalis Deppeiy Lodd.).— Native of
Mexico. — Perennial. — Roots fleshy, white, semi-transparent, and
resembling small Turnips ; leaves very long stalked, composed of
four roundqd very light green leaflets, each marked with a brown
spot ; flowers large, carmine-pink, green at the base of the
petals.

CULTURE. — This plant is easily multiplied from the bulblets
which grow in large numbers near the neck of the root. These are
planted in April, in good light soil, either on the edges of beds or
in rows 12 to 16 in. apart. The plants will continue growing until
late in autumn without requiring any attention except watering
in very dry weather. It is advisable to take the roots up before
the approach of frosty weather, but if some of the plants can
be conveniently covered with frames and, in this way, kept
growing until November, they will produce much finer and larger
roots.

USES. — The roots, which are tender and juicy, but very insipid,
may be eaten. The leaves, used like those of the Common Sorrel,
are a better table vegetable than the roots. They are tender, with
an agreeably acidulous flavour, and, after being cut, the plant
speedily sends out fresh leaves, which are fit for use in two or three
weeks.

SOY BEAN

661

SOY BEAN

Sofa hispida, Mcench. Legummosee.

French, Sqja. German, Soja-Bohne.

Native of China. — Annual. — In China the varieties of this plant
are almost as numerous as those of the Kidney Bean are in Europe.
There are dwarf kinds and also tall ones which, if not climbers like
our tall Kidney Beans, at least trail for a considerable distance.
Up to the present time, only one or two dwarf early varieties have
been cultivated in Europe and considered of any importance for
table use, and to the de-
scription of these we shall
here confine ourselves.
So far, it does not appear
liable to be attacked by
any insect, nor to suffer
from any parasitical
fungus, while its vigorous
habit of growth, its great
productiveness, and the
richness of its beans in

Soy Bean (£ natural size ; detached pods,
\ natural size).

nutritive properties cause
it to be justly esteemed
as a valuable plant for
agricultural and economic
purposes.

CULTURE.— The Soy
Bean is grown in exactly
the same manner as
Kidney Beans. It requires
nearly the same degree of
heat, and ripens at the
same time as the mid-
season varieties of these
plants. All the pods on a plant, however, do not ripen together,
those which set first being often full-grown and nearly ripe while
the plant still continues to flower on the upper part of the stem.

USES. — The beans are eaten, either green or dried, like Kidney
Beans. The dried beans should be steeped in water for some time
before they are cooked, otherwise they will remain almost as hard
as they were when uncooked.

Common Yellow Soy Bean. — A dwarf thick-set plant, forming
small compact tufts from 10 to 20 in. high, according to the rich-
ness of the soil and the time of solving. Flowers very small, green
or lilac, in axillary clusters, and succeeded by hairy pods, each
containing two or three small beans, which are pale yellow when

662

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

ripe, and are scarcely larger than those of the Rice Kidney Bean ;
their germinating power lasts for two years. This variety ripens
in three or four months after sowing.

Etampes Yellow Soy Bean. — This variety is not so early as
the preceding one, but is far more productive. The plant forms
branching tufts from 2 to over 2 J ft. high, which become laden with
pods growing from the axils of all the leaves. The beans are

much larger than those
of the preceding variety,
being almost as large as
those of the China, or
Robin's-egg, Kidney Bean,
and sometimes a little
more elongated. Their
germinating power lasts
for two years. This plant
requires at least four or
five months to complete
its growth and come to
maturity ; however, in
ordinary seasons, it ripens
the greater part of its pods
in the climate of Paris.

Podolian Soy. — A
little over 18 in. high,
erect, with medium-sized,
dark green, much reticu-
lated leaves ; the pods
numerous, curved, contain-
ing usually three black
thick seeds. Much grown
in Southern Russia, its
principal merit is its earli-
ness. The colour of its
seed makes it less valuable
for table use.

Very Early Brown-seeded Soy. — Earlier than the Podolian,
with almost straight pods in large clusters, and brown seed. Like
the Podolian, it ripens its seed in the climate of Paris.

SPINACH

Spinacia oleracea, L. Chenopodiacea.

French, Epinard. German, Spinat. Flemish and Dutch, Spinazie. Danish, Spinat.
Italian, Spinaccio. Spanish, Espinaca. Portiigttese, Espinafre.

A plant of rapid growth, the wild form having arrow-shaped,
pointed leaves, while in the cultivated varieties the leaves are

Etampes Yellow Soy Bean (£ natural size
detached pods, § natural size).

SPINACH

663

broader and rounder, and are remarkable for the thickness of the
parenchyma. In cooking they lose nearly all their savour, but
keep their green colour. When growing, these leaves form a
rosette, from the centre of which the flower-stem makes its appear-
ance more or less speedily, according to the variety. The Spinach,
being dioecious, bears only male flowers on some plants and only
female flowers on others. The seed, which, of course, is only found
on the female plants, varies very much according to the variety,
that of some kinds being armed with three very sharp points, while
in other kinds the seed is round and without points.

CULTURE. — The seed is best sown where the plants are to stand,
in drills 10 or 12 in. apart. It is advisable, in order to have a con-
tinuous supply, to make successional sowings every fortnight, or at
least every month, especially in spring and summer, when the plants
run to seed quickly. Frequent and plentiful waterings are indis-
pensable to ensure an abundant growth and good quality in the
leaves. The market-gardeners around Paris have for a long time
preferred the Prickly-seeded varieties for spring sowings, reserving
the Round-seeded kinds for late summer and autumn sowings. At
the present day, however, we have Round-seeded varieties which
are quite as hardy and as slow in running to seed as any of the
Prickly-seeded kinds.

The first sowing for summer use
should be made early in March, as
a rule ; but in warm soils and situa-
tions a small sowing may be made
in February.

SUMMER SPINACH. — Owing to the
Summer Spinach being so liable to
run to seed, it is advisable to make
small sowings often rather than to
make large sowings at long inter-
vals— as by the former plan a
regular supply of fine young leaves
is ensured, whereas in the latter case
small tough leaves have often to be
used in consequence of successional
crops not being sufficiently advanced
to give a supply. It is therefore
obvious that a sowing should be
made once a fortnight, or at
longest every three weeks, during
the summer months. These sow-
ings may consist of the Round
Spinach for the first two or three
sowings, and the Flanders or the
Lettuce-leaved varieties for sowing

through the summer. These two
last-named kinds are far superior,
both in quality and cropping, to the
Round Spinach. For summer sow-
ings it is best to choose as shady
and moist a situation as possible,
to save watering, as well as to pre-
vent the plants from running to
seed too quickly. All Spinach seed
is benefited by being soaked in
water for a few hours previous to
sowing, inasmuch as it germinates
more quickly and the growth is often
stronger. Sowing in drills is by far
the best mode of sowing the seed,
as then the crop is more easily
kept free from weeds, and watering
or mulching can be effectually done
when desired, as well as rendering it
much easier to gather the crop. The
drills should be about i ft. apart,
and the plants, after thinning, at
least 6 in. asunder. The Lettuce-
leaved and Flanders require even
more room than this, if the produc-

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

tion of fine large leaves be aimed
at. The last sumnuer crop should be
sown on a well-prepared border or
quarter about the middle of July, in
drills about 18 in. apart; this will
yield a good supply of fine large
leaves till October is out.

For the late or winter crop,
prepare about the end of July a
border or sheltered quarter ; apply a
good coating of thoroughly decayed
manure, trench the ground well and
cast it up into ridges, so as to expose
as great a surface as possible to the
influence of the atmosphere. Any
dry day till August loth or i2th
cast down the ridges and pulverise
with a steel fork, so as to sweeten
and incorporate all together. Then
draw lines i ft. apart and sow
the hardy Prickly variety. As the
plants advance, thin them out from
6 to 9 in. apart, and maintain a
healthy and vigorous growth by
constant surface stirrings in suitable
weather: this, if attended to, pre-
vents canker, and encourages the
production of an abundance of fine
leaves for use every day through-
out the winter. Timely forethought
should be taken to shelter a portion
with a row of short stakes about
1 8 in. high, interwoven with fern,
straw, evergreen branches, furze,
heath, or other material, which
should be neatly applied, and also
made wind-proof. Thatched hurdles
or frames, cheaply made of battens
tacked together and thatched, might
also be used for the purpose of pro-
tecting from frost. The last sowing,
to supply leaves in the spring,
generally consists of the Prickly
variety. The time to sow this crop,
however, depends upon the locality.
If sown too soon, it runs to seed
the same season, and is useless.
To sow it late enough to have a
crop of leaves without the plants
throwing up their flowering stems

is what has to be aimed at, and
for this reason many sow twice for
the winter crops. In some parts of
Scotland and the north of England
the middle of August is not too
soon, while in the south it is not
often safe to sow before the end of
September; but a practical acquaint-
ance with the climate and locality
will generally be the best guide.
This crop is often sown after
Potatoes or Onions. The winter
crop will generally afford a good
supply of leaves till nearly the
beginning of June, by which time
the Round or Summer Spinach will
be coming in in abundance.

A deep, rich, moist soil is neces-
sary to grow good Spinach ; and if
liberal supplies of liquid manure
be given to summer crops, a great
advantage will be gained thereby.
Some care is required in picking
Spinach, especially in winter, when
the growth is often not equal to
the demand. Indiscriminate picking
will soon ruin the crop ; the largest
leaves should therefore be taken
first, and picked off singly, so as to
avoid injuring the plants.

CULTURE FOR MARKET. — Eng-
lish market-gardeners seldom grow
Spinach as a summer crop, as it
"bolts" or runs to seed before
many leaves have been gathered
from it, and in that case it is by
no means a profitable crop. The
Round-leaved sort is that which is
used for spring sowings, the first
of which is made in February, a
second about March ist, and another
sowing or two at an interval of three
weeks or thereabouts, just as space
and convenience permit. The latest
spring sowings are made on a damp,
cool piece of ground, provided such
can be obtained, as, thus circum-
stanced, better leaves are produced
in hot weather than on dry and
warm soils. In July, if the weather

SPINACH

665

be moist, a sowing of the Round-
leaved variety is usually made on
a spare piece of ground for autumn
use. Early in August a large sow-
ing of the Prickly-seeded or the
Flanders is made broadcast on
fields or in rows about 8 in. apart.
Some growers prefer the Flanders
on account of its large fleshy leaves
anS hardy constitution, and it sells
in the market better than the Prickly
sort. By sowing in the first and
last week of August and the middle
of September, a succession of
Spinach from October till May is
easily kept up. Coleworts are fre-
quently planted in a field of late
Spinach, at 3 or 4 ft. apart. In
damp winters a large proportion of
the roots may die, but in ordinary
winters they survive, and produce

an abundance of large fleshy leaves
in spring. No care is taken with
this crop from the time of sowing
till gathering, beyond hoeing and
thinning once or twice. Spaces
under fruit-trees are also covered
with Spinach sown broadcast; and
as the trees are not furnished with
leaves, they do not shade the plants.
Open fields are also often sown with
Spinach in beds, which are covered
by throwing soil over them from
the alleys; on these beds Cauli-
flowers are also planted, at the
usual distances apart. By the time
the Spinach has come well up the
Cauliflowers will have become well
established, so that the Spinach,
which as soon as ready is removed
for market, does not injure the
Cauliflowers.

USES. — The leaves are eaten boiled.

COMMON SPINACH
Spinacia spinosa^ Mcench. ; Spinacia olerac^a a, L.

Epinard ordinaire.

This form, which appears to corrre nearer than any other to the
wild plant, is now very
rarely cultivated, at least
in France. It is dis-
tinguished by its rather
narrow, pointed, arrow-
shaped leaves, by having
the leaf-stalks tinged with
red, and the seed armed
with sharp, horn-like
prickles. It is not a
kind to be recommended.
The germinating power of
the seeds lasts for five
years.

Large Prickly, or
Winter, Spinach. — Re-
sembling the preceding
kind in the seed, this
variety is distinguished

from it by the broadness Large Prickly, or Winter, Spinach (£ natural size).

666 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

of its leaves (which, however, are distinctly arrow-shaped) and
by its great productiveness. When sown thin, it often forms
broad spreading tufts, with numerous branches, plentifully covered
with leaves and rather slow in flowering. This habit of growth is
peculiar to the plant. The Round-seeded varieties usually form
only a simple rosette, from which, at flowering time, one or more
vertical stems issue, bearing from their earliest growth well-
developed organs of fructification. These stems also are hollow at
the centre and much thicker, being sometimes ii to if in." in
diameter, while the stems of the Prickly-seeded kinds are seldom
thicker than one's finger. This is a good, vigorous-growing, and
hardy variety, and, as we have already observed, is preferred by
the Parisian market-gardeners to all other kinds for spring sowings.
There is a Prickly-seeded variety with roundish leaves, which
bears a tolerable resemblance to the Lettuce-leaved Spinach, and is
known by the name of Epinard Camus de Bordeaux, or E. Rond
a Graine Piquante. It is very clear that, of two varieties which are
equally good in other respects, the preference will always be given
to the Round-seeded kind, the seed being more convenient to
handle and more easily sown.

ROUND-SEEDED SPINACH

Spinacia glabra, Miller ; Spinacia oleracea /3, L.
Epinard a graine ronde.

The opinion of botanists that the Round-seeded Spinach is a
distinct species from the Prickly-seeded, appears to be well founded,
as the shape of the seed is a very permanent characteristic in these

plants. Horticulturally
also, the two kinds are
clearly different, the
Round - seeded always
growing more thick-set
and forming more com-
pact and less spreading
tufts than the Prickly-
seeded varieties. Their
germinating power lasts
for five years.

Round- seeded
Round - leaved Large

Large Dutch Spinach. Dutch Spinach. — A

good, vigorous, and hardy

kind. Leaves arrow-shaped, large and broad, light green, crimped,
especially while young, with blunt points generally slightly turned
underneath. The leaf-stalks are about as long as the blades of the

ROUND-SEEDED SPINACH

667

leaves. Seed round. This form may be considered as the type of
the 'Round-seeded varieties, which are improved modifications of it.
At the present time, the Spinach which is most frequently sold
under the name of Dutch Spinach, especially in Germany, is nothing
but the Lettuce-leaved Spinach.

Round-seeded Flanders Spinach. — This is the best-known
and most extensively cultivated Round-seeded Spinach. Its
characteristics are almost the same as those of the true Dutch
Spinach, but it is of somewhat greater size, and the leaves are

Round-seeded Flanders Spinach.

rounder and less arrow-shaped. It is an excellent and productive
variety, and may be sown nearly all the year round. When sown
in autumn, it yields a very considerable crop in spring, and in this
respect it and the following variety have a marked advantage over
the Late-seeding Spinach, the growth of which is not so vigorous
at the end of winter. The latter, however, in its turn, surpasses

Viroflay Giant Spinach (£ natural size).

them in the summer months, when it yields a continuous supply of
broad tender leaves, after the earlier varieties have entirely run to
seed.

Viroflay Giant Spinach. —This variety, which is a rather new
one, resembles the Flanders Spinach in the shape of its leaves and

668

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

in its habit of growth, but is of much greater size, as it is not unusual
to see tufts of it measuring 2 to nearly 2j ft. in diameter, with
leaves 10 in. long and 8 in. wide at the base. Like all extremely

vigorous-growing and
large-sized varieties, this
requires a plentiful supply
of nutriment, and is worthy
of recommendation, being
especially suited for well-
manured and well - kept
gardens.

L e 1 1 u c e - 1 e a v e d
Spinach. — A very distinct
variety, with oval leaves,
which are rounded both
at the base and the upper
extremity, of medium size,
spreading on the ground,
and very dark green.
Leaf-stalks short and stiff.
The name of this variety
does not convey a very
accurate idea of its ap-
pearance, and it might,
perhaps, be more appropriately styled the Sorrel-leaved Spinach,
only that this name has been already applied to another variety
which is now seldom met with in cultivation, and of which the
leaves, with their short and partially violet-tinged stalks, very

Lettuce-leaved Spinach (£ natural size).

DEPOSE.

Victoria Dark Green Summer Spinach.

closely resemble Sorrel leaves, not only in shape, but also in
their light, pale colour. The Lettuce-leaved Spinach is a rather
productive variety, notwithstanding its low and thick-set habit

ROUND-SEEDED SPINACH

669

of growth. It answers well
for summer and autumn
sowings, and, when sown
before winter, is one of the
latest kinds to run to seed
in spring.

Victoria Dark Green
Summer Spinach.— Distin-
guished by its dark green
glazed leaves, its lateness
to flower makes it available
during the whole summer.
Like other late-seeding
Spinaches, it forms a rosette
of leaves flat on the soil.

Savoy-leaved, or Curled,
Spinach. — A rather curious
kind with fairly large, much
crumpled, glossy dark green
leaves. Early and produc-
tive, but rather prone to run
quickly to seed.

Late-seeding-, or Long-
standing, Spinach. — We are
indebted to M. Lambin, Secretary-general of the Soissons Horti-
cultural Society, for our acquaintance with this excellent variety,

which surpasses all others
in the length of bearing.
The plant forms compact
tufts, with numerous dark
green leaves somewhat
more crimped and less
rounded than those of the
Lettuce - leaved Spinach,
but yet resembling them
more than those of any
other variety. The leaf-
stalks are very short,
rarelyexceeding the length
of half the blade of the
leaf. The distinguishing
quality of this variety is,
as its name indicates, that

it runs to seed more slowly
and later than any other

Late-seeding (Long-standing) Spinach. kind. The difference of

Savoy-leaved Spinach.

670

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

time in its favour may be estimated at from fifteen to twenty

days at least, according
to circumstances, and is
especially marked in
spring sowings, which are
so often liable to run to
seed too soon.

L o n g - s t a n d i n g
Catillon Spinach. — A
^te long-bearing kind;
leaves medium-sized,

j j , , . ^,

rounded, resembling those
of the preceding, but smoother ; a very good variety for spring and
summer sowing.

Long-standing Catillon Spinach.

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH

Tetragonia expansa, Ait. Mesembryantliemacea.

French, Tetragone cornue. German, Neuseelandischer Spinat. Flemish^ Vierhouk.
Danish, Nyseeland>k Spinat. Italian, Tetragona.

Native of New Zealand. — Annual. — Stems spreading, branched,
from 2 to over 3 ft. long, bearing numerous alternate thick, fleshy
leaves, resembling Orache leaves in shape ; flowers axillary, small,
greenish, and without petals, succeeded by hard horned seed-vessels
somewhat like the Water
Chestnut in shape, and of
an almost woody texture
in the interior, where the
seeds are enclosed. The
germinating power of the
seeds lasts for five years.
This plant is grown to
supply the place of the
ordinary Spinach during
the hottest months of the
year, or in dry, arid
localities where theordinary
Spinach does badly. The
seed is sown, either in a
hot-bed or in the open
ground, where the plants
are to stand, in May, and
the plants will continue to New Zealand sPinach'

yield a supply of leaves during the whole summer, requiring
hardly any attention. The leaves are eaten boiled and minced
like ordinary Spinach.

STACHYS TUBERIFERA

671

STACHYS TUBERIFERA
Or Chinese or Japanese Artichoke.

A perennial, with creeping roots, quadrangular stems and opposite,
oval, pointed, dull green, articulated, rough leaves ; flowers in
compact terminal clusters, seldom seen in European climates, and
therefore not seeding.
The plant is, however,
very easily increased by
the thickened ends of
the underground stems.
These rhizomes, of
which the engraving
gives a very good idea,
are white, watery, and
tender, and fine skinned.
They are formed only
late in the season when
the vegetation of the
plant has almost ceased
and the stems begin to
wither. They keep with
difficulty and should
be lifted only when
wanted.

CULTURE. — Their
culture is very simple.
Therhizomesare planted
from February to April,
in light soil about I ft.
apart. No other care is
required during summer than to keep the soil free from weeds and
to water in case of protracted drought. The rhizomes may be lifted
from October onwards. They are eaten fried, or as a salad, etc.

STRAWBERRIES

Fragaria, L. Rosacece.

French^ Fraisier. German, Erdbeere. Flemish and Dutch, Aardbezie. Danish,
Jordbeer. Italian, Fragola. Spanish, Fresa. Portuguese., Morangueiro.

Several species otFragaria have been introduced into cultivation
at different times, and, either through the improvement of the wild
forms themselves, or by being crossed with one another, have con-
tributed to produce the diversified varieties which are now found in
gardens. The number of these varieties has become so great, that
it is absolutely impossible to mention them all in this work, and
we have been obliged to make a selection comprising only those

Stachys Tuberifera,

672 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

kinds which appeared to us most worthy of note, either as
possessing in a high degree a combination of various good qualities,
or as being specially adapted for some particular purpose. Earli-
ness, productiveness, perfume, and fine flavour are qualities which
every one will appreciate in a Strawberry, and it is according to
the merit of varieties in these different respects that the amateur
who grows them in his own garden for his own use will select
the kinds of Strawberries which suit him best to plant. But the
private gardener who forces them for an early crop, or the market-
gardener who grows them on a large scale to supply the markets,
must look for other qualities in the kinds which he takes in hand,
especially if the fruit which he intends to sell has to be carried to a
distant market. In the latter case, the property of bearing carriage
without being damaged is one of such high importance that very
often the possession of it is sufficient to decide the selection of the
kinds which make their appearance in the markets.

All the varieties of cultivated Strawberries have in common the
advantage of being remarkably early, and they supply the first fruit
that ripens in spring. As the attentions which their culture requires
vary to some extent according to the species from which the varieties
have sprung, we shall give only some very general instructions on the
subject. The germinating power oftheseeds lasts for aboutthree years.

CULTURE. — Almost all the varieties of Strawberries suffer from
dry and excessively warm weather ; it is therefore advisable to
plant them in cool, moist ground, and in a position somewhat
sheltered from the burning rays of the sun. If a little time is thereby
lost, the produce, on the other hand, will be more abundant and
more prolonged. The hardiness of Strawberries is such that they
will withstand the winter without any protection from frost, but
almost all the varieties are injured by an excess of moisture at that
time of the year, and are liable to rot at the root if planted in
badly drained ground. Once the warm weather has arrived,
however, Strawberry plants, on the contrary, require to be
plentifully watered, and it will generally be found advantageous to
give them a good mulching with stable manure or straw, which, by
preventing evaporation, will keep the roots cool and moist, so that
the plants will not require to be so frequently watered.

USES. — The fruit, which is excellent and very wholesome, is
eaten fresh, and is also used for preserves, etc.

WILD, or WOOD, STRAWBERRY

Fragaria vesca, L.

Fraisier des bois.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A herbaceous, stoloniferous
plant. Leaves composed of three folded toothed leaflets, which

WILD, OR WOOD, STRAWBERRY 673

are hairy on the lower part ; flower-stem erect, branching, hairy, a
little taller than the leaves ; divisions of the calyx reflexed after
the flower has faded ; hairs on the flower-stalks adpressed ; fruit
small, pendent, rounded or conical in shape ; seeds prominent, and
extremely small. This species is common in the woods of the
whole northern hemisphere, and especially so in mountainous
districts. It has seldom been seen in gardens since the intro-
duction of the Red Alpine Strawberry. We must, however,
mention some forms of it which have been preserved up to the
present day in the neighbourhood of Paris, from an adherence to
old practices in the first instance, and also because the fruit of the
Wood Strawberry possesses a quite peculiar perfume and delicacy of
flavour. In low-lying districts its season lasts hardly a month, but
on the mountains, on account of the difference in the time of ripen-
ing at different altitudes, Wood Strawberries may be gathered from
June to September.

Fontenay Early Small Strawberry. — A variety differing very
ttttle from the Wood Strawberry. It is a very early kind, ripening
seven or eight days before the Red Alpine Strawberry. 'Fruit
small, round, and dark red when very ripe. The plant is not a
continuous bearer, and only produces fruit in spring.

Montreuil Strawberry.— A very distinct variety, with rather
narrow, very light-coloured, folded leaves, which have a peculiar
appearance. The plant is vigorous and productive. Fruit of a
rather long, conical shape, but sometimes broad and of a cock's-
comb form, and dark red when well ripened, which occurs some-
what late, namely, about the end of June or early in July. This
variety is very productive, but it only bears once in the year. It
was raised in the neighbourhood of Montlhery by a horticulturist
named Montreuil, in the early part of the eighteenth century.

The Praise Monophylle, or F. de Versailles^ which has only a
single leaflet in each leaf, is another variety of the Wood Straw-
berry, raised by Duchesne, the author of the celebrated " Mono-
graphic du Fraisier."

RED ALPINE STRAWBERRY

Fragaria alpina, Pers. ; F. semperftorens, Duch.

Fraisier des Alpes.

Native of the Alps. — Perennial. — A very different plant from
the Wood Strawberry, and distinguished from it by the greater
size of all its parts — the fruit, in particular — and especially by
the property peculiar to it of producing flowers and fruit con-
tinuously all through the summer. The introduction of this Straw-
berry into cultivation is of no very distant date, as it was brought

43

674

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

into France from Mont Cenis by Fougeroux de Bondaroy, in
1754 ; but it speedily attained a very important
position in horticulture, on. account of its valuable
quality of producing fruit at a season when all
other varieties of Strawberries have long ceased
bearing. The fruit has nearly the same appear-
ance and flavour as that of the Wood Strawberry,
but is generally larger, longer, and more pointed
in shape. The seed also is perceptibly larger and
longer.

CULTURE. — As this Strawberry reproduces itself
exactly in every respect from seed, many gardeners
are in the habit of raising it in this way instead of
from runners, and they generally agree in the opinion
that plants raised from seed are more vigorous and
more productive than the others. In order to ensure a very pro-
longed and very abundant
supply late in autumn, it
is a good plan to rest the
plants which are intended
to bear at that time, by
not allowing them to
flower in spring, or at
least by discontinuing to
gather the fruit at an
early period, and by
cutting off the flowering
stems and the runners, but
continuing to water the
plants all the time. Alpine
Strawberries, when pro-
perly taken care of, ought
to yield almost as abun-
dantly in September as
in spring. The greatest
difficulty in their culture
is to make them fruit
plentifully in July and
August.

White Alpine Straw-
berry.— There are nume-
rous varieties of Alpine
Strawberry. One of the
oldest known is the White-
fruited kind, which differs

from the ordinary kind Alpine Belle de Meaux Strawberry.

RED ALPINE STRAWBERRY

675

in the colour of the fruit, which is also not quite so acid. The

plant is an equally con-
tinuous bearer.

Janus Alpine Straw-
berry. — A very fine

variety of the Alpine

Strawberry, characterised

by the fruit being conical,

large, and well shaped,

and becoming almost

black when perfectly ripe.

It is very productive, a

very continuous bearer,

and highly worthy of re-
commendation in every

respect. The variety

comes very true from

seed.

Alpine Belle de

Meaux Strawberry. — A

sport of the Red Alpine

Strawberry, characterised

by the large size of its

fruit and the intense red

colour of the whole plant.

Not only the stems and

runners, but the flowers

themselves, are often tinged with red, and the fruit almost black

when quite ripe. Produces abundantly during six months of

the year, and comes quite true from seed.

Bush Alpine Strawberry. —
This very distinct variety has the
advantage of growing without pro-
ducing any runners, which often
make it troublesome to keep Straw-
berry-beds in order, and, on this
account, it is peculiarly well adapted
for planting as edgings. There is
one form of it with red, and another
with white fruit. Both are hardy,
productive, and continuous bearers,
and reproduce themselves from seed
with hardly any variation. They
may also be multiplied by division

Red Alpine Duru Strawberry. -

Red Alpine Duru Strawberry.— Another improved variety of

Bush Alpine Red Strawberry.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Alpine Strawberry has been pretty much grown for some years
past under the name of Praise des Quatre Saisons Amttioree
Duru. This is distinguished from the other varieties by the
peculiar shape of the fruit, which is very long and slender ; it
is lighter in colour than the Janus Strawberry. The size of
the fruit of the Alpine Strawberry might be much increased by
a careful selection of seed-plants, but it must not be lost sight

of that every increase
in the size of the
fruit is usually gained
at the expense of
their number or the
continuous production
which is the real and
greatest recommenda-
tion of the Alpine
Strawberry.

Alpine Berger
Strawberry. — Comes
very near the preceding
variety, but has longer
and thicker fruit. A
vigorous grower and a
very continuous bearer,
producing, especially
when young, much
perfumed scarlet
fruit.

M eudon naise
Perpetual Straw-
berry.— This variety,
which formerly was
rather commonly
grown in the neigh-
bourhood of Paris, but
at present is somewhat
neglected, is distin-
guished at first sight

Alpine Berger Strawberry.

from all others by its rather light-coloured leaves, which have
the peculiarity of being crimped or puffed in the middle,
instead of being flat or folded in two, like those of most
other varieties of the Alpine Strawberry. The fruit is large,
conical, and very dark in colour when quite ripe. It ripens
rather late.

Schoene Anhalterin (Goeschke). — A compact-growing Alpine
Strawberry with red fruit, of no particular merit.

HAUTBOIS STRAWBERRY 677

HAUTBOIS STRAWBERRY

Fragaria elatior, Ehrh.

Fraisier capron.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A stoloniferous plant, with
folded, dull, dark green, and somewhat hairy leaves. Flowers
usually dioecious through abortion ; fruit a very deep red-violet.
In some plants, the pistils only are developed, and in others the
stamens,so that fructification will not occur with certainty unless both
forms of the plant grow within a short distance from each other.

CULTURE. — The Hautbois, like most Strawberries, is almost
always propagated from runners, which it produces in abundance.
All the cultivated varieties of this Strawberry, being derived from
a plant which grows wild in France, are perfectly hardy and easily
grown ; nevertheless, since the appearance of the large or Pine-
apple Strawberries which have now become so common, the
Hautbois Strawberries have lost much of the favour which they
formerly enjoyed. The peculiar and exceedingly strong flavour of
their fruit is disagreeable to many persons, and they have not the
advantage of producing a second crop in autumn, like the Alpine
Strawberry. Any good well-drained soil suits them, and the plants
may be left growing in the same place for several years, but it is
necessary to plant male and female plants together in order to
ensure complete fructification.

Common Hautbois, or Musky, Strawberry.— This variety
exhibits all the characteristics of the species from which it is
derived, with a vigorous habit of growth and
abundant foliage. The fruit are very numerous,
nearly spherical, slightly shortened at the
point, elongated at the neck, and without seeds
on the part next the calyx. They do not
ripen until about the end of June, and are
then of a violet or wine-red colour. The flesh
is very solid, juicy, buttery, and melting, white
or faintly yellow, or sometimes greenish, and
with a very strong flavour, something like that
of Black Currants. The leaf-stalks are very
hairy, especially when young.

Belle Bordelaise Strawberry.— A plant
of smaller size than the preceding kind, but
more thick-set and compact in growth. Leaves of a light, almost
gray-green ; leaflets long oval, with well-marked veins and sharp,
deeply cut teeth ; flower-stems erect, well raised above the leaves ;
flowers large, pure white, with very round petals ; fruit rather long,
often conical, considerably larger than that of the Common Hautbois
Strawberry, and ripening about the middle of June.

678 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The following species are also worth mentioning : —

Short-runnered Wild Strawberry (Fragaria collina, Ehr.). —
Resembles the common Wild Strawberry, excepting that the
runners are not jointed ; from the Alpine Strawberry it differs
in not fruiting continuously. The fruit is more like that of the
Hautbois than any other kind.

Scarlet Virginia Strawberry (Fragaria Virginianay Ehr.). —
Native of North America. — A stoloniferous plant, with long smooth
leaves and small round fruit, very slender stalks, and deeply sunk,
small and brown seed. It is an early and a hardy, but not con-
tinuous bearer. The fruit is very small, and rather light scarlet
even when ripe.

Chili Strawberry (Fragaria Chilensis, Duch.). — Native of Chili.
— A stoloniferous species, of compact growth, very hairy on all its
parts. Fruit large, irregular in shape, orange-coloured and more
or less hairy. The fruit ripens late, and varies in form and colour.
Not very hardy, and succeeds only in seaside districts, especially
in Brittany.

PINE-APPLE STRAWBERRY

Fragaria grandiflora, Ehrh.

Fraisier Ananas.

The origin of this large-fruited form of Strawberry is very
obscure. At the time of its introduction into cultivation, about the
middle of the eighteenth century, it was not exactly known how it
originated. Moreover, two kinds of Strawberry have been known
by this name — one, described by Poiteau, which is not the true
Pine-apple Strawberry ; the other, which is much more extensively
grown, especially in England and Holland, appears to have produced,
either by variation or perhaps from crossing, most of the large-
fruited kinds known as " English " Strawberries. It is very
possible that the Pine-apple Strawberry itself is the offspring of
a cross between the Chili Strawberry and some other botanical
species. The typical plant, as preserved in some collections, is of
a vigorous and rather thick-set habit of growth. The leaves are
rather like those of the Scarlet Virginia Strawberry ; the flower-
stems are stout, not very tall, and somewhat hairy, and the flowers
are very large ; the fruit is round or slightly heart-shaped, and of
a pale pink colour, with a faint yellow or salmon-coloured tint ; the
flesh is very white and often hollow at the centre ; the seed is
brown, medium-sized, and not very deeply sunk.

From the seed of this Strawberry thousands of distinct varieties
have been raised, and of these we shall now describe the best and
most noteworthy.

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES 679

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

French, Fraisiers hybrides. German, Grossfriichtige Erdbeeren. Spanish, Fresones.

The varieties which are comprised under the name of Hybrid
or Large-fruited Strawberries are far from presenting an identity
of character, so that we shall not endeavour to give any general
description of plants which exhibit so many points of difference
from one another. To give some idea of the diversity which exists
amongst them, we may observe that the colour of the fruit varies
from white to blackish red, while the weight ranges from less than
a quarter to over three ounces. The flavour also of the fruit, the
size of the seed and the depth to which it is sunk in the surface of
the Strawberry, the size of the flowers, the time of ripening, and
the number of runners produced exhibit equally strongly marked
differences.

CULTURE. — The Hybrid Strawberries like well-drained, deep,
substantial soil, but they readily accommodate themselves to soils
of various kinds, provided they are not brought into contact with
stagnant moisture, which injures them more than anything else.
Any kind of garden soil, by being moderately well dug and properly
manured, can be brought to produce good Strawberries, unless the
climate is excessively dry. The seed of Hybrid Strawberries is
rarely sown except for the purpose of raising new varieties, and
they are almost always propagated from runners — a method so
prompt and easy that a better could hardly be desired. The
runners are long, slender, bare, and cord-like branches, the swollen
extremity of which bears a cluster of -leaves, and from its under-
surface speedily sends out roots and attaches itself to the soil at
a short distance from the parent plant. The runners of the Hybrid
Strawberries do not end with the rooting of the first cluster of
leaves, but produce four or five joints in succession, each bearing
at its extremity a cluster of leaves which grows and roots itself like
the first, under favourable conditions. The runners begin to
appear when the plant comes into flower, and continue to increase
in length all through the summer, during which time the plant will
also produce fresh ones, should the first have been cut off. About
August, the earliest plants of the runners will be well rooted and
strong enough to be planted out, either as edgings or in beds, each
-containing three or four rows of plants, which should be about
20 in. apart in every direction. Before planting, the ground should
have been well dug, well manured, and covered with a good litter
of manure or dead leaves. The young plants will begin to bear in
the following spring, and the fruit will be more abundant and finer
if all runners are carefully removed. As soon as the first fruit are
formed, it is advisable to place a layer of long straw, or else slates
or tiles, on the ground under the young fruit, to keep them from

68o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

coming into contact with the damp soil. When this is done, the
fruit ripen sooner, and are always clean, even after heavy rain. A
bed of Strawberry-plants usually continues to bear well for two
or three years. In the second year, preparations should be made
to replace the plants with new ones, so as to have the beds always
in full bearing. The weakest runners and those produced latest
in autumn may be transplanted into a nursery-bed, in order to be
planted out in spring, but these must not be expected to bear fruit
until the year after they are planted out. Strawberries are some-
times forced in hot-houses, but more usually in frames or pits
heated by hot-water pipes. Plants for forcing are raised in pots
and placed in artificial heat from the end of October until Straw-
berries begin to ripen in the open air. By pinching off the first
runners of plants growing in the open air beyond the first joint,
and rooting each of the young plants in a flower-pot filled with good
soil, plants may be obtained sufficiently well grown to be repotted
in autumn and forced in the ensuing winter. The same method
may be employed to forward plants which are to be planted out in
the open air. The varieties of Hybrid Strawberries which are best
adapted for forcing are : — Princesse Roy ale, Marguerite, Vicomtesse
Hericart de Thury, and La Constante ; and, of English varieties,

Black Prince, Keen s
Seedling, and British
Queen.

USES. — The fruit is
eaten raw, and is also
made into sweetmeats
and preserves.

Albany ( Wilson).—
An early and productive
variety. Plant of vigor-
ous, compact growth ;
leaves dark green, with
long, thin, hairy stalks ;
leaflets oval, sharply
toothed ; flower - stems
numerous, erect; flowers
small with narrow petals.
Fruit small, rounded,
or heart-shaped, dark
scarlet-red, and very-
abundant ; flesh red,
juicy, but very acid.
Ripens mid-season. Its
acid flavour and small
Van-Guard Strawberry. size disqualify it for table

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

68r

use, but for cooking and preserving it is unsurpassed, superior
even to the famous Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury.

Van-Guard Strawberry. — A very productive, vigorous, bushy
plant, with large dark green leaves. Fruit medium-sized, but very
numerous, globular or oblong in shape, of bright red colour ; seeds
almost projecting ; flesh pink, fairly sweet, but not much perfumed.
It bears larger fruit than any of the other early sorts. Its chief
merits are its great earliness and its abundant and prolonged yield.

Barnes's White Strawberry (Btcton Pine). — Plant of moder-
ately vigorous, rather thick-set habit of growth ; leaves rounded,
dark, shining green, deeply and rather sharply toothed ; veins very
distinctly marked ; leaf-stalks long, slender, and green ; flowers
numerous, small, and
borne on short branch-
ing stems which are
scarcely taller than the
leaves ; fruit round or
conical, blunt, white
slightly tinged with
pink ; flesh very white,
not crisp, sugary, juicy,
and a rather strong
musky flavour ; seeds
half-projecting, red or
brown. Fruit ripens
mid - season. A very
productive variety,
especially notable for
the white colour of the
fruit. After fruiting,
the plant remains re-
markably compact and
thick-set. It produces
few runners, and these are short, stiff, and thickish, and bear the
clusters of leaves closer together than the runners of most other
Strawberries.

Belle de Cours Strawberry.— A vigorous sort, ripening late,
with numerous conical dark red fruit ; flesh rosy white, firm and
sweet A garden more than a market variety.

British Queen Strawberry.— Plant of medium height, and
somewhat delicate ; leaves oval, rather long ; leaf-stalks hairy, often
red ; leaflets oval, nearly round, with very large short teeth ;
flowers very broad ; flower-stems stout, usually taller than the
leaves ; pedicels inclined to be thick and hairy ; fruit very large,
oblong, often flattened, conical or square at the end, of a vermilion
colour which is never very dark ; flesh white, firm, very juicy, sugary,

Belle de Cours Strawberry.

682

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

highly perfumed, and very fine in flavour ; seeds brown, rather
projecting. This is certainly one of the best of all Strawberries as
regards quality, and is especially to be recommended for stiff moist
soils. It would, undoubtedly, be more extensively grown if it were
hardier, and if its propagation was not rendered tedious and difficult
from the circumstance of its producing -very few runners, and these
thin and slender ones.

Carolina Superba Strawberry. — Plant rather vigorous, hairy
on all its parts ; leaves dark green, shining on the upper surface ;
leaflets oval, folded or twisted, often spoon-shaped ; flowers medium-
sized, numerous ; flower-stems rather stout, but scarcely taller than
the leaves ; fruit large, heart-shaped, short, and vermilion colour ;
flesh very white, melting, buttery, perfumed, slightly musky ; seeds

British Queen Strawberry
(natural size).

Carolina Superba Strawberry
(natural size).

half-projecting. A very good and rather productive, but somewhat
tender variety. Fruit ripens mid-season. Although coming near
the British Queen Strawberry in other respects, this variety differs
from it in producing stout, thick, hairy runners. These are not
very numerous, and we have sometimes seen them flower in the
same year, but such an occurrence is exceptional.

Centenary Strawberry.— A strong, vigorous plant ; leaves
broad, long stalked ; flowers large, white, borne on very long stems.
Fruit large, oblong, bluntly pointed, often cock's-comb shaped. A
thick, well-coloured, glistening fruit with deeply sunk seeds ; flesh
pink, juicy and of good quality ; ripens mid-season. Its chief
merit is that with no special care it can produce as large and as
beautiful fruit as those obtained at much expense with General
Chanzy and other sorts famous for their great size. It therefore

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

683

suits the private grower
as welJ as the market
garden.

Crescent Seedling
Strawberry. — A fairly
vigorous plant, bushy,
dwarf; leaves dark
green, with narrow leaf-
lets ; flower-stems nume-
rous, short and slender,
bearing numerous small
flowers opening very
early. Fruit abundant,
medium - sized, heart-
shaped, of a glistening
red colour ; flesh red,
acidulated and per-
fumed. This kind may
be classed among the
earliest varieties, equal-
ling in this respect the
May Queen Strawberry,
than which it produces
larger fruit and for a
longer time.

Docteur Morere
Strawberry. — A very
vigorous variety. Leaf-stalks and flower-stems rather hairy; leaves
large, broad, and very dark green ; leaflets broad, almost always
folded on the midrib, slightly puckered and twisted, and with very

large, rather deep and sharp
teeth ; flowers large, rather
numerous ; calyx very large ;
flower-stems stout, erect, often
leafy. Fruit very large, short,
very deep red when ripe, and
rapidly diminishing in size ; flesh
pink, melting, sugary, juicy, and
rather perfumed,but often hollow
at the centre ; seeds black and
rather projecting. The flavour
of the fruit somewhat resembles
that of the Chili Strawberry.
This variety is grown on a large
scale in the neighbourhood of
Docteur Morere Strawberry (natural size). Paris for market supply.

Centenary Strawberry.

684

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Docteur Veillard Strawberry. — A medium-sized plant, with

light foliage ; leaf-stalks
slightly hairy ; leaflets
large, oval, broad, much
toothed ; flower-stems
stout, very branching,
trailing ; flowers medium-
sized. Fruit fairly large,
rounded or oblong, not
very abundant ; flesh red,
perfumed, but pasty. A
half-early variety.

Due de Malakoff
Strawberry. — Plant ex-
ceedingly vigorous, with
large broad leaves of a
deep, almost blackish
green ; leaflets oval,
rounded, with very large
short teeth ; leaf-stalk,
flower-stems, and runners
very hairy, and often
tinged with red ; flowers
large, pure white ; flower-
stems stout but inclined

to be short ; fruit large and short, and of a peculiar brown tint

when ripe ; flesh yellow, something like the colour of the flesh

of an apricot, juicy, melting, and with somewhat of the flavour

of the Chili Strawberry. This is a very

productive and very hardy variety, and

ripens mid-season.

Edouard Lefort Strawberry. — A

new and very distinct variety, shaped

liked the Hautbois Strawberry — a shape

rarely seen in hybrid Strawberries.

Plant vigorous, leaves numerous, up-
right ; leaflets large, long, dark green,

borne on hairy stalks ; flower-stems tall

and stout ; fruit round at the end and

tapering at the base, where it forms a

neck bare of seeds for one-third the

length of the fruit. The fruit is scarlet

changing to dark blood-red. The flesh

is red all through, and in this • re-
spect it differs from the Two-coloured

Strawberry and the Deutsche Kronprinzessin, the only two

Docteur Veillard Strawberry.

Due de Malakoff Strawberry
(natural size).

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

685

other long-necked varieties known to us, for both of these have
white-fleshed fruit.

General Chanzy Strawberry. — Plant very vigorous ; leaves
large and dark green ; leaf-stalks covered with an abundance
of long hairs ; flower-stems stout, erect, taller than the leaves, or
partially so ; fruit generally very large and long, narrowed at both
ends, sometimes hollow at the centre, and of exceedingly dark
red colour, which becomes nearly black when the fruit is fully ripe ;
flesh blood-red throughout, sugary, vinous, and sometimes per-
fumed to a surprising de-
gree. This variety ripens
rather late and continues
bearing for a considerable
time.

Jucunda Strawberry.
— Plant very vigorous and
thick-set; leaf-stalks tall;
' leaves medium-sized, light
green, almost glazed ;
leaflets nearly round, with
short and rather round
teeth and well-marked
veins ; flowers medium-
sized, very numerous ;
flower-stems stout, erect,
often leafy, always very
branching, and taller than
the leaves ; fruit very
abundant, heart-shaped,
of a bright vermilion-red
colour, becoming darker
when over-ripe, and some-
times slightly hollow at
the centre ; flesh red,

juicy, rather perfumed, Edouard Lefort Strawberry.

and not very sugary ;

seeds yellow, almost entirely projecting. Ripens half-late. The
vigour and hardiness of this variety, the abundance of its fruit,
their fine colour, and their capability of bearing carriage without
injury, render it one of the most valuable kinds of Strawberries for
market-gardens near large towns. It is in full bearing when the
early kinds are on the decline.

La Constante Strawberry.— Plant of compact, thick-set
growth ; leaves short stalked ; leaflets small, nearly round, dark,
rather glaucous green, with large teeth, usually few in number,
but long and sharp ; flowers very numerous, small, greenish white ;

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

General Chanzy Strawberry.

flower-stems branching, but very short, and almost hidden by the

leaves. Fruit large, conical, rather short,
and a rather deep scarlet colour when
fully ripe ; flesh pink or pale red, delicate
in flavour, juicy, perfumed, and slightly
deficient in sugar; seeds black, not deeply
sunk. This variety is very highly to be
recommended, as be-
ing productive, a very
regular cropper, and
taking up but little

room.

Jucunda Strawberry
(natural size).

Le Czar Straw-
berry.— A mid-season
variety, vigorous and
prolific ; bushy, with
large and rather

La Constante^trawberry twisted leaves ; leaf-

(natural size). stalks long, red, and

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

687

slightly hairy ; leaflets rounded ; flower-stems stout, and rather

short, bearing large, erect flowers. Fruit very large, egg-shaped,

long and pointed, tapering and bare of seeds at the neck, of a

glistening dark red colour, with seeds deeply sunk ; flesh intense

red, sometimes hollow at

the centre, juicy and

agreeable. Is much liable

to suffer from drought,

and when the needed

moisture is not provided,

the setting of the fruit,

as also their size and

good shape, is seriously

endangered.

Louis Gauthier
Strawberry. — A tall,
robust, and leafy plant ;
leaf-stalks long, slender
and slightly hairy; leaflets
small, much rounded,
bluntly toothed, and a
shining dark green ;
flower - stems numerous,
stout, long, erect or re-
cumbent, bearing large
flowers with rather twisted
petals. Fruit very
abundant, medium - sized
or large, globe-shaped, or
slightly flattened at the
stem end, very regular in
shape ; seeds brown, half
projecting, contrasting
with the rosy white colour
of the fruit ; flesh, juicy,
sugary, perfumed, and
very good in quality.
Half- early. Announced
at first as a Large-fruited
Perpetual Strawberry, it

is not exactly that, for Le Czar Strawberry.

the second crop is only

on the young runners in the autumn and is dependent on the
season and cultivation. For productiveness, regular shape, and
exquisite flavour it is among the best garden Strawberries, although
the pale colour of the fruit may not appeal to every one.

688 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Louis Vilmorin Strawberry. — Plant rather low and of medium
vigour ; leaflets oval rounded, shining green, with very large,
rather blunt teeth ; flowers broad, pure white ; flower-stems very
short and much branched, the branches often tinged with red and
partially hidden by the leaves. Fruit heart-shaped, very regular,
numerous, and very dark red in colour when ripe ; flesh dark red, not
very sugary, and somewhat deficient in delicacy of flavour and
perfume, but very firm, juicy, and agreeable. A very hardy variety,
bearing abundantly and long, and remarkable for the deep red
colour of the fruit. Its runners are rather scantily produced, which
hinders the speedy multiplication of the plant. It and the

Louis Vilmorin Strawberry. Lucas Strawberry.

American variety named Wilson's Albany are the best two kinds
for preserving ; the preserves which are made of them having more
flavour and a better colour than those made of any other Straw-
berries, even of those which are the best for eating uncooked.

Lucas Strawberry. — Plant vigorous, second-early ; leaves
rather large, light green, shining on the surface ; leaflets slightly
oval, with very large, rather long teeth, which are sometimes very
acute, and sometimes quite round ; flowers medium-sized, with
round petals, and very numerous ; flower-stems stout but short,
often hidden by the leaves. Fruit large, oblong, well-shaped, and
rather dark scarlet in colour ; flesh pale pink, juicy, sugary, and
highly perfumed. A variety both productive and of the very
highest quality.

Madame Mesle Strawberry. — Plant not very tall, but vigorous;
leaf-stalks short, spreading, very hairy ; leaflets large, rounded,
undulating, deeply toothed ; runners tinged red. Fruit very large,
oblong, short, tapering, bare of seeds at the neck, of a beautiful
brilliant vermilion-red ; seeds half sunk ; flesh pink, of excellent

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

689

quality. Ripens half-early. The result of a cross between General
Chanzy and Dr. Morere, it has inherited the delicate flavour of the
latter, while it has the shape of the former. Great productiveness
and large fruit give it a first place among those varieties suitable
for field culture.

Marguerite Strawberry.— Plant medium-sized ; leaf-stalks
rather short and slender; leaflets long in comparison with their
breadth, light green, very smooth on the upper surface, and with
rather large sharp teeth on the margin of the upper half only of
the leaflet ; flowers medium-sized ; flower-stems short, extremely
branching, and almost trailing. Fruit very large, long, conical in

Madame Mesle Strawberry.

Marguerite Strawberry.

shape, and vermilion-red in colour, even when the fruit is ripe ;
flesh pink, very juicy, melting, slightly deficient in sugar and
perfume ; seeds rather deep. A very productive, extremely early,
long-bearing, good forcing Strawberry.

May Queen Strawberry. — Plant of medium vigour of growth,
leafy, very like the Scarlet Virginia Strawberry in habit ; leaf-stalks
nearly smooth ; leaflets of a very long oval shape, sharply toothed
on the upper two-thirds of the margin ; flowers medium-sized or
small ; flower-stems very branching, short, seldom rising above
the leaves. Fruit medium-sized or small, short, blunt, rounded,
and scarlet-red ; flesh pink or pale red, acidulated, perfumed, and
rather sugary ; seeds deeply sunk. The fruit is very agreeable
to the taste, especially as it ripens in the latter end of May

44

69o

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

before any other Strawberry, thus redeeming its sole defect of
smallness.

Napoleon III. Strawberry. — Plant vigorous, with large, erect,
dark green, shining leaves ; leaf-stalks very hairy ; leaflets large,
nearly round, with broad, blunt teeth ; flowers medium-sized,
very round, in crowded clusters ; flower-stems stout, leafy, rising
well above the foliage. Fruit large, rather short, and vermilion-red ;
flesh very white, melting, well perfumed in warm seasons, sometimes
a little hollow at the centre ; seeds black, projecting. A hardy and
productive variety, but ripening late, and liable to suffer much
in dry seasons.

Laxton's Noble Strawberry.— Plant vigorous, with large, broad
leaves borne on slender stalks ; flower-stalks numerous, very branch-
ing. Fruit abundant, spherical, or shortly conical, and a glistening

May Queen Strawberry. Napoleon III. Strawberry.

Laxton's Noble Strawberry.

scarlet; flesh red, juicy, sugary, perfumed, and agreeably acid.
Excellent in quality, it is undoubtedly one of the most interest-
ing varieties, not only for the garden, but also for the market, for,
besides being as early, it is also very productive, and yields as fine
fruit as the mid-season varieties.

June Peach Strawberry.— A rather bushy plant, with reddish,
short, hairy leaf-stalks ; leaflets rounded, slightly toothed, veined,
dark green ; flower-stems short, slender, very branching ; flowers
pretty large. Fruit conical, pale red ; seeds deeply sunk ; flesh
pink, juicy, mellow, and perfumed. Ripens very late. Its chief
merit is the high quality of its fruit, at a time, moreover, when
the other sorts begin to lose in size and flavour.

President Carnot. — Plant of medium size ; leaf-stalks long,
strong, hairy, green ; leaflets oval, slightly toothed, often folded ;

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

691

flower -stems erect;

flowers large, yellowish

white petals, united at

the base. Fruit a good

size, oblong or globe,

often cock's-comb

shaped ; not much

coloured, hairy ; flesh

pink, sometimes hollow,

pasty, but firm. Ripens

mid-season. A very

productive, but not much

grown variety.

Princesse Royale

Strawberry. — One of

the oldest varieties raised

in France. Plant of

medium height, but very

vigorous and robust ;

leaves smooth, shining,

and clear green ; leaflets

long oval, with rather

sharp teeth at some dis-
tance from the base ;

flowers very small, but

very numerous ; flower-
stems stout, very branch-
ing, some of them taller than the leaves. Fruit very numerous,

conical, generally well shaped, and of a fine red colour ; flesh

perfumed, rather sugary and juicy, but somewhat hard in the
centre. A very hardy, productive, and early
variety. The fruit bears carriage well, and this,
added to its other good qualities, accounts for
the tenacity with which the Parisian market-
gardeners have adhered to its culture, notwith-
standing the introduction of new kinds superior
to it in some respects. In the Central Market
at Paris, the fruit of this Strawberry always
command a higher price than those of any
other varieties, except, perhaps, some choice
kinds. They are especially esteemed for their
fine colour and perfume.

King- of the Earlies Strawberry. — Plant
fairly vigorous, foliage light, pale green ; leaflets
Frincesse Royale much toothed ; flower-stems numerous, slender ;
Strawberry. flowers large, and opening early. Fruit rather

June Peach Strawberry.

692

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

large, globe-shaped or oblong, well coloured ; half-early. This
variety ripens at about the same time as May Queen, but bears
larger fruit, resembling those of Vicomtesse
Hericart de Thury. It is less vigorous and
productive than most other very early sorts,
and although raised a good many years ago,
is little cultivated, at least in the vicinity of
Paris.

Richard Gilbert Strawberry. — A robust
plant, with shining, dark green, puckered leaves;
leaf-stalks long, thin, green, and hairy ; leaflets
oval, toothed ; flower-stems erect ; flowers large,
with broad petals covering each other. Fruit
conical, flat, or broadened out into a cock's-
comb when large ; light red in colour ; seeds

yellow> wel1 sunk; flesh firm> Pink> Juicy,
rather acid, and very fragrant. Ripens late,
and, being very productive, may be recommended for field
culture ; possesses also the merit of keeping long unpicked, and
bearing handling and carriage well.

Royal Sovereign
Strawberry.— Medium-
sized plant, not very
bushy, rather flat, but
very vigorous ; leaf-stalks
long, very thin, hairy,
slightly tinged pink ;
leaflets small, oval ; run-
ners very red ; flower-
stems stout and numerous,
erect or recumbent;
flowers large. Fruit
abundant, large, oblong or
flattened, bright scarlet-
red ; seeds yellow and
prominent ; flesh pink,
juicy, acid ; ripens very
early. Much esteemed in
England for garden culture
as well as for forcing ; in
France it is hardy and
productive, but very little
grown, at least under
glass.

\\

Richard Gilbert Strawberry.

Sabreur Strawberry. — A very distinct variety, easily known
from all others by its violet-coloured runners and leaf-stalks.

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

693

Leaflets very long, with
very large and deeply
cut teeth ; in colour a
rather dark glaucous-
green. The divisions of
the calyx are deeply
coloured, like the leaf-
stalks. The flowers when
about to fall change to
red. Fruit ovoid, almost
always regularly shaped,
large, often very large,
and of a crimson colour
more or less deep accord-
ing to the temperature
of the season ; flesh
white, sugary, juicy, and
rather perfumed ; seeds
very black and very
prominent, giving the
fruit a quite peculiar
appearance. This variety
is certainly one of the
best that has been raised
of late years. It does
not produce fruit of the
first quality, but it is early, hardy, highly productive, and con-
tinues bearing for a long time, being one of the earliest when
it commences to yield and found still fruiting amongst the latest
kinds. The runners are very abundant, and
the variety is, consequently, one of the easiest
to multiply.

Sensation Strawberry. — A vigorous and
early variety ; leaves broad, dark green ; leaf-
stalks short, thin, green ; leaflets long oval,
spoon-shaped, sharply toothed ; flower-stems
numerous, erect or recumbent ; flowers of
medium size, white, slightly yellow. Fruit
abundant, medium-sized or large, oblong,
blunt, a shining dark red when completely
ripe ; seeds yellow, prominent ; flesh tender,
pink, not very juicy, but perfumed and very
good in flavour. Size is its principal merit,
and the finest fruit is usually got from one-
year-old plants, therefore replant at frequent

Sabreur Strawberry. intervals.

Royal Sovereign Strawberry.

694

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Sharpless Strawberry. — A vigorous plant, with erect leaves ;
leaf-stalks thin, green, and slightly hairy, leaflets rounded, sharply
toothed ; flower-stems short, stout, erect ; flowers borne on long
pedicels, very open and large, with petals united at the base. Fruit
abundant, medium in size or large, short, often irregular in shape ;
flesh pink or red, juicy, but not very fragrant. Ripens early. Defec-
tive in shape and rather
indifferent in quality,
this variety is still much
grown around Paris be-
cause of its hardiness and
great productiveness.

Sir Joseph Paxton
Strawberry. — Plant of
medium vigour ; runners
slightly hairy; leaf-stalks
and flower-stems rather
more so ; leaves fairly
numerous, and dark

Sensation Strawberry.

Sir Joseph Paxton Strawberry
(natural size).

shining green ; leaflets large, oval, often puckered or twisted, and
with large and rather deeply cut teeth ; flowers broad, numerous,
pure white ; flower-stems moderately stout, and not always taller
than the leaves ; fruit conical or heart-shaped, well formed, and
rather dark scarlet in colour. One of the best and handsomest
of all Strawberries, and very productive. Ripens mid-season. In
England this variety is more largely cultivated than any other
by market growers. It is valued for its fine colour, large size, and
firm flesh, which enables it to bear carriage well.

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

695

Souvenir de Bossuet Strawberry. — A low, almost dwarf plant,
with dense foliage ; leaf-stalks short, green, hairy ; leaflets broad,
rounded, veined, and slightly toothed ; flower-stems short, flowers
fairly large. Fruit abundant, large, heart-shaped, a beautiful
bright red, turning to very dark red at complete maturity ; seeds
brown, half-sunken ; flesh pale red, very juicy, sugary, agreeably

Souvenir de Bossuet Strawberry

Vicomtesse Hericart de
Thury Strawberry.

acidulated, A very productive variety, its abundant foliage
effectively protecting the fruit against the midday sun, but soon
exhausted and producing in the end only small fruit.

Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury Strawberry. — Plant vigorous,
not very tall, but leafy, erect, and dark green, indicating a robust
constitution ; leaflets oval, often narrow at the base, which is with-
out teeth, the rest of the margin bearing rather deep, large, and
usually rounded teeth; flowers medium-sized or small; flower-stems

696

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Victoria Strawberry.

stout, very branching, and generally taller than the leaves. Fruit
conical or heart-shaped, and very dark red ; flesh red, very firm,
sugary, juicy, sub-acid, and well perfumed ; seeds half-projecting.
The fruit of this variety bears carriage well. It ripens early, and is

produced very abundantly and for a
long time. It is, consequently, grown
on a large scale for market supply, not
only in France, but also in England,
and is a very suitable kind for forcing.
The plant is one of those varieties from
which, under proper treatment, a second
crop may be most readily obtained in
autumn

Victoria Strawberry. — A strong,
vigorous plant, forming broad dense
tufts ; leaflets very broad, nearly round,
with very large, very blunt teeth, and
of a rather dark, shining green colour ;
flowers numerous, medium-sized ; flower-
stems long, stout, very branching, and
rising well above the leaves. Fruit large, very short, roundish, or
slightly heart-shaped, of a pale vermilion-red, and with a very
delicate skin ; flesh pink, exceedingly juicy and melting, and fairly
sugary and perfumed ; seeds very deeply sunk. Though the fruit
bears carriage badly, and does not keep well, it is pretty largely
grown for the Central Market at Paris, on account of its earliness
and its very great and long-continued
productiveness. It is especially suitable
for private kitchen-gardens.

Wonderful, or Myatt's Prolific,
Strawberry. — Plant vigorous and of
medium height ; leaves numerous ; leaf-
stalks slender, rather hairy ; leaflets
medium-sized, nearly round, and a clear,
slightly gray- green colour ; flowers
medium-sized, very numerous ; flower-
stems very stout and very branching,
not always rising clearly above the leaves.
Fruit long, usually flattened, almost always
square at the end, and very dark crimson
in colour ; flesh white, very firm, juicy,
very sugary, and highly perfumed ; seeds
black, small, projecting, and very numerous. A mid-season and
very productive variety, continuing to bear for a long time, uniting
great productiveness with good quality ; but, owing to the rather
dark colour of the fruit, not much in request in the markets.

Wonderful (Myatt's Prolific)
Strawberry.

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

697

Like all other fruit-bearing plants, the Strawberry has been the
parent of so many varieties that it would be almost impossible to
enumerate them all. Besides which, there are special works on this
subject which treat of it far more fully than we could possibly do.
We shall, therefore, in addition to the kinds already described,
only mention some other varieties not yet very well known, but
remarkable for their excellent qualities, some of which are employed
for special purposes.

Admiral Dundas. — Plant vigorous, ripening late; fruit
numerous, conical, dark red ; flesh pinkish white, firm, sugary.
A variety for the student rather than market uses.

Admiral Dundas Strawberry. Belle de Paris Strawberry. The Captain Strawberry.

Belle de Paris. — A very hardy and very productive variety.
Fruit conical, large, bright red, ripening somewhat late ; flesh white
or red, sugary, and rather firm.

Black Prince. — Fruit small, round, becoming almost black when
ripe. This is one of the earliest of all the Hybrid Strawberries.

The Captain. — A vigorous plant, with large, conical fruit, of a
fine shining red ; flesh pinkish white, fine and sugary. Produces
but very few runners, and therefore very slow to increase.

Commander. — Flower-stems long and erect ; fruit abundant,
long shaped, scarlet, hairy ; flesh firm, pink, juicy.

Comte de Paris. — An old French variety with handsome heart-
shaped fruit of a dark red colour. Flesh red. A very productive
kind, and well adapted for field culture.

Dr. Hogg. — Very much like the British Queen in habit of
growth, but with larger fruit, of a fine scarlet red ; flesh very solid,
pinkish white, juicy, delicately fragrant.

Dr. Nicaise. — Remarkable for size rather than quality of fruit ;
flesh pale red.

698

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Duke of Edinburgh. — Rather vigorous ; fruit conical or heart-
shaped, a very bright scarlet ; flesh pale red, slightly acid, rather

Dr. Nicaise Strawberry.

Eleanor Strawberry.

very
and

sugary and agreeably perfumed. A half-late variety, producing

very large and very regularly shaped fruit.

Duke of Montrose. — A late sort, with pale green leaves and

erect flower-stems. Fruit
abundant, rounded or
oblong ; flesh very firm,
red and juicy.

Eleanor. — A late
variety ; fruit oblong,
very dark red ; flesh
pale scarlet, not
juicy, but sugary
fragrant.

Elisa. — Fruit
medium-sized or small,
of a rather pale vermilion
.J j red colour ; flesh white.
Bears for a considerable
time ; to be recommended
for stiff soils.

Elton Improved. —
Very vigorous, ripens
late. Fruit heart-shaped,
dark red, flesh red,
sugary, juicy, rather

Elton Improved Strawberry. sub-acid.

HYBRID STRAWBERRIES

699

Gloire de Zuidwyck. — A vigorous, productive, mid-early
variety ; fruit large, conical, deep orange or bright scarlet ; flesh
orange-coloured. Easily multiplied. Well adapted for market
supply, its fruit keeping well.

Hohenzollern. — Plant vigorous, with large round leaves ; fruit
numerous ; top-shaped, sometimes irregular, of a slightly coppery
red colour ; ripens late ; flesh dark red, very juicy, but not very
sugary.

Kaiser Nikolas von Russland. — A vigorous plant, with large
leaves and large flowers. Fruit very numerous, heart-shaped, with
sometimes the end remaining green ; flesh white, not very juicy,
but perfumed. Very productive.

Keen's Seedling. — A very good old variety. Fruit medium-
sized and of excellent quality. It is one
of the best of all kinds for forcing.

Gloire de Zuidwyck Strawberry.

Keen's Seedling
Strawberry.

La Chalonnaise Strawberry.

Koenig Albert. — A compact, vigorous, very productive kind.
Fruit medium-sized or large, very short, flattened, light red ;
flesh very tender, juicy and sugary. Its runners produce some-
times a second crop. The fruit travels badly, and is easily
injured.

La Chalonnaise. — Fruit highly perfumed and delicate ;
flesh white. One of the best Strawberries grown, but rather
delicate.

La Grosse Sucree.— Plant of thick-set growth, hardy, and
vigorous, bearing rather abundantly and half-late ; fruit large, of
an elongated heart-shape, and of a bright shining red colour;
flesh pinkish white, very melting, abundantly juicv; and very
sugary.

Latest of All.— Very late, ripening only in July. Fruit
pretty large, oblong or knobby, not much coloured, green at

7<DO

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

the end ; flesh very firm, pink, juicy, and of good quality. In

hot weather the fruit harden, become sour or are spoilt by

mildew.

Leader. — A bushy, vigorous plant. Fruit very numerous,

ripening late, large, oblong, hairy, rather soft ; flesh not very juicy,

acid, with a thick core.

Petit Pierre. — Very productive, ripening mid-season. Fruit

medium-sized or small,
but very numerous, long
conical, lustrous, firm ;
flesh very red, juicy,
and of excellent
quality.

Princess Dagmar.
— A tall, vigorous plant,
flower-stems rising well
above the foliage.
Fruit fairly abundant,
medium - sized, oblong,
blunt, deep red, very
firm, ripening late and
in succession; flesh pink,
juicy, sub-acid, but of
good quality.

Sir Charles Napier.
— A very fine fruit, often
flattened and broadened
into cock's-comb shape;
flesh firm, pink ; a very
good, vigorous kind,
ripening in mid-season,
often grown for the
market.

Sir Harry. — A very
fine variety, and really
very rare, although many
think they have it.
Fruit large, heart-
shaped, and of a bright

^^^^^^^^ red colour ; flesh solid,

juicy, sugary, and of a pale pink colour. Ripens half-late.

This variety does not continue bearing long, and produces few

runners.

Weisse Dame. — Low growing, with large leaves, pretty early,

producing sometimes an abundance of oblong pink fruit ; flesh

tender, juicy, and very sugary.

&

&j$t*u&f,

Princess Dagmar Strawberry.

LARGE-FRUITED PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES 701
LARGE-FRUITED PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES

Fraisiers remontants a gros fruits.

Many years ago a cross made between some Pine-apple Straw-
berries produced a variety called " Bon Henry," from which kind,
on being crossed in its turn later on with some large-fruited
sorts, several new varieties were raised, among which were the

St. Joseph Strawberry.

" St. Joseph," the first really interesting Large-Fruited Perpetual
Strawberry.

St. Joseph Strawberry. — A bushy, rather dwarf, and
trailing plant ; leaf-stalks short, green, hairy ; leaves rounded,
with well-defined teeth, bluish, somewhat glaucous green ; flower-
stems not -numerous, developing in succession, short, with medium-
sized, well-staminated flowers. Fruit medium-sized, heart-shaped ;
seeds small, numerous ; flesh white, or rosy white, juicy and per-'
fumed. Inferior as it is to many of the hybrid large-fruited sorts,

702

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

it produces an abundance of fruit during the whole summer up to

the first frosts, an advan-
tage which is not to be
underrated. The fruit,
if not so large as Dr.
Morere or Noble, are of
very fair size, and con-
siderably larger than the
finest Alpine Strawberry.

The varieties Rubi-
cunda and La Constante
feconde may be con-
sidered as altogether
identical with the St.
Joseph.

Jeanne d'Arc Straw-
berry.— A variety raised
a little later than St.
Joseph, somewhat more
vigorous and with rather
larger fruit but resemb-
ling it in all other respects.

Saint- Antoine de
Padoue Strawberry. —

Jeanne d'Arc Strawberry. A mUch m°rC

Saint-Antoine de Padoue Strawberry.

LARGE-FRUITED PERPETUAL STRAWBERRIES 703

variety than the St. Joseph, taller and denser in growth. Leaves
broad, slightly hairy ; leaflets oval, toothed ; flower-stems tall and
stiff, flowers large. Fruit large, conical or cock's-comb shaped ;
seeds yellow, numerous and prominent ; flesh very rosy, juicy and
sweet. This fine variety is the result of a cross made between
Royal Sovereign and St Joseph. It is a more vigorous plant
and produces larger fruit than the St. Joseph, though perhaps not
so continuous a bearer, as it has usually ceased to produce by
the end of July, until
it starts afresh in the
second half of September
or early in October. It
stands the heat and
drought much better
than the St. Joseph.

La Productive. —
Plant vigorous, tall ;
leaves light green ; leaf-
lets long, toothed, rather
hairy, and often four
together on one stalk,
which is seldom the case
with the other varieties;
flowers medium - sized,
and very early. Fruit,
large, oblong, blunt,
bright red, rather hairy;
seeds projecting, except
on the neck, which is
long, smooth, and shin-
ing ; flesh pink, very
juicy and very sweet.
The result of a cross
between St. Joseph and
Edouard Lefort, it is in-
termediate between the
two. Its fruit is very
like that of Edouard
Lefort and its foliage like that of St. Joseph, without the blue
tinge of the latter, and with the above-mentioned peculiarity of four
leaflets being often borne on one leaf-stalk, which distinguishes
it from all other Perpetual Strawberries. It is perpetual like
the St. Joseph, the runners, almost as soon as fairly started,
throwing up a flower-stem which bears fruit towards the end of
summer. The first flowers appear very early in spring, and the
first fruits ripen with those of the early varieties.

La Productive Strawberry.

704 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

TANSY

Tanacetum vulgare, L. Composite.

French, Tanaisie. German, Gemeiner Rainfarn, Wurmkraut. Danish, Reinfang.
Italian, Atanasia. Spanish, Tanaceto.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — A plant forming a clump of
very permanent growth. Stems annual, erect, rounded, usually not
branching, and about 3 ft. high ; leaves oval oblong, but very much
divided and very deeply cut into narrow segments, which are also

divided into exceedingly slender toothed
lobes ; flower-heads small, numerous,
in compound, terminal, and rather
crowded corymbs ; florets deep yellow ;
seeds small, long, almost conical, with
five prominent grayish ribs. Their
germinating power lasts for two years.
Two varieties of this plant are in cul-
tivation— namely, the Common Tansy,
which is the same as the wild plant,
and a curled-leaved variety, the leaves
of which, in addition to the ordinary
use, may also be employed for

garnishing, like those of the Curled
Tansy (A naturals,^), j^j^

CULTURE. — The Tansy, like the Wormwood, demands no
cultural care, and a plant or two of it growing in the corner of
the garden is usually sufficient for all requirements. It is gener-
ally multiplied by division in spring or autumn. By cutting off
the flower-heads as they appear, the production of leaves is pro-
longed in the latter end of summer and in autumn.

USES. — The leaves are used for seasoning, etc.

GOLDEN THISTLE

Scolymus hispanicus, L. Composites.

French, Scolyme d'Espagne. Dutch, Varkens distel. Italian, Barba gentile. Spanish,

Escolimo.

Native of Southern Europe. — Biennial. — A plant with a white
and rather fleshy tap-root. Radical leaves oblong, usually varie-
gated with pale green on a dark green ground, very spiny, and
narrowed at the base into the leaf-stalk ; stem very branching, from
2 to 2\ ft. high, furnished with sessile, decurrent, and very spiny
leaves ; flowers of bright yellow, in sessile heads of two or three
flowers each ; seeds flat, yellowish, surrounded by a white scarious
appendage. Their germinating power lasts for three years. The
seed is sown in March or April, in well-dug soil, in the same

GOLDEN THISTLE

705

manner as Salsafy, and the plants are afterwards treated in exactly
the same way as Salsafy-plants. The roots may commence to be

Golden Thistle.

taken up for use in September or October, and will continue to
yield a supply during the winter. The roots are eaten like Salsafy.
They are often 10 to 12 in. long, and nearly I in. thick.

TARRAGON

Artemisia Dracunculus, L. Composites.

French, Estragon. German, Dragon. Flemish and Dutch, Dragonkruid. Danish^
Estragon. Italian, Dragoncello. Spanish, Estragon. Portuguese, Estragao.

Native of Siberia. — Perennial. — A plant with numerous branch-
ing stems, bearing lanceolate entire leaves, which, like all the green
parts of the plant, possess a very delicate, aromatic flavour, on
which account they are very extensively used for seasoning. The
flowers are white, in no way striking, and always barren, so that
the plant must be propagated by division of the tufts or from
root-cuttings. According to old horticultural books, the plant
formerly produced fertile seeds, and if such was the case, it
might be hoped that some day such seed may again be
regularly obtained from it, but at present it does not usually
produce any, and the seed which is offered for sale from time
to time only produces plants which resemble the Tarragon in all
its botanical characteristics (Artemisia Redowskii)> but entirely

45

706

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

destitute of flavour. The Tarragon-plant flowers frequently, and
the flowers appear to be well formed. Some fertile seeds might be
accidentally produced, and if these were carefully gathered and

sown, a regularly seeding
variety might be raised ;
but if from any cause
there should be a difficulty
in multiplying Tarragon-
plants by division, an
excellent substitute may
be obtained by growing
Tagetes lucida, a Composite
plant, which, although be-
longing to a quite different
genus, possesses in its
green parts almost exactly
the same flavour as the
true Tarragon.

CULTURE. — Being a
perennial, the Tarragon

Tarragon (i natural size ; detached leaf. . .. ,

natural size). requires no particular at-

tention. It is advisable,

however, in severe winters without snow, to cut down the stems
and cover the necks of the plants with a litter of manure or
withered leaves, as, although originally a native of Siberia, the
cultivated Tarragon-plant is somewhat liable to suffer in very
frosty weather.

COMMON THYME

Thymus vulgaris, L. Labiata.

French, Thy m ordinaire. German, Franzosischer Thy mian. Flemish, Thijmus. Dutch,
Tijm. Danish, Thimian. Italian, Timo. Spanish, Tomillo. Portuguese, Tomilho.

Native of South Europe. — Perennial. — A very small dwarf
shrub with slender, stiff, branching, woody stems, bearing small
triangular leaves, more or less deep green in colour on the upper
surface and gray underneath. Flowers small, labiate, lilac-pink, in
round or ovoid terminal clusters, which lengthen after flowering.
The germinating power of the seeds lasts for three years.

CULTURE. — Thyme is usually planted as an edging in well-
drained soil in a warm position. It may be propagated by division
or cuttings, but is generally raised from seed, which yields vigorous
plants. The seed is sown in April, either where the plants are to
stand or in a seed-bed, from which the young plants are planted
out in June or July, about 4 in. apart. It is advisable to re-make
Thyme edgings every three or four years.

COMMON THYME 707

USES. — The leaves and young shoots are very often used for
seasoning.

Two varieties of this plant are cultivated, namely, the Narrow-
leaved, which has small gray leaves and
is very aromatic ; and the Broad-leaved
Winter, or German, Thyme, a somewhat
taller and stronger plant, with larger
leaves, a little more bitter than the
other variety. The seed also of the
Broad-leaved kind is one-third larger.

Besides these, the Lemon Thyme
(Thymus citriodorus, Pers.), a small
under-shrub with trailing branches, the
native country of which is unknown,
is sometimes cultivated. Its flavour is
very delicate and agreeable. Some-

TH

the Wild Thyme, or Mother-of- Thyme
(Thymus Serpyllum, L.), is used for seasoning. This is a native
perennial plant, with a very slender creeping stem, bearing small
oval-rounded leaves and erect terminal clusters of pink or
violet-coloured flowers.

TOMATO, or LOVE-APPLE

Lycopersicum esculentum, Mill. ; Solarium Lycopersicum, L.

Solanacece.

French, Tomate. German, Tomate. Flemish and Dutch, Tomaat. Italian, Pomodoro.
Spanish and Portuguese, Tomate.

Native of South America. — Annual. — The Tomato is a branch-
ing plant with a flexible stem, requiring artificial support to enable
it to grow erect. The stem is thick, often woody, swollen, especially
at the joints, and covered with a green skin which is rough to the
touch. The leaves are pinnate, with oval-acuminate leaflets, which
are slightly toothed on the margin, grayish on the under-surface,
and often spoon-shaped or even with the edges rolled upwards.
Flowers yellowish, in axillary corymbs ; fruit large fleshy berries,
variable in shape and colour ; seed white, kidney-shaped, very
much flattened, and shagreened or rough on both sides. Its
germinating power lasts for four years.

CULTURE. — It is only in the south of Europe that the Tomato
can be perfectly grown without the aid of artificial heat. In the
climate of Paris, the seed, for an ordinary or main crop, is generally
sown in a hot-bed, about the latter end of March. The seedlings
are pricked out into another hot-bed three weeks or a month after-
wards, and are finally planted out about the end of May, from

;oS THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

20 to 32 in. apart, according to the variety. As soon as the plants
have grown from 1 6 to 20 in. high, each of them should be sup-
ported either with a single stake, or with a series of stakes fastened
together and forming a kind of trellis, upon which the branches of
the plant are tied. The latest varieties would be all the better for
being planted at the foot of a wall or other shelter with a warm
aspect. In these varieties, too, it is advisable to limit the pro-
duction of the fruit to a certain number by pinching off all the late
flowers. It is also a good plan, sometimes, to pinch some of the
shoots ; but that should be done with discretion, so as not to leave
the plant too bare of leaves. Under this mode of culture, the
earliest varieties will commence to yield fruit in the course of
August, and produce them all through the autumn. When frosty
weather approaches, any fruit that are full-grown but not yet
coloured may be cut off, branches and all, and stored in a dry
room, where they will duly ripen. Ripe Tomatoes may be obtained
as early as the latter end of April by means of forcing. In this
case the plants are grown entirely in hot-beds. The first sowings
are made in September, but more usually in January. The
seedlings are pricked out, and also permanently planted out in
hot-beds, always under the same conditions, four plants to each
light. As the plants require a good deal of heat, the beds should
be surrounded with linings of manure, which can be renewed at
pleasure. Plants thus formed are usually not allowed to bear more
than two branches, which are attached horizontally to a wire or a
strong cord running from one end of the bed to the other, and as
near the glass as possible. Until the fruit is formed and com-
mencing to ripen, other plants are usually grown in the hot-beds
along with the Tomatoes, thus utilising the heat and also the space
which is not yet filled up by the principal crop.

In Great Britain of late years the ties of England and Ireland have a

culture of Tomatoes has spread very considerable advantage in Tomato

much, though far from, as yet, being culture over those in the north,

able to meet the demand for the Mr. Hobday, growing them in a

fruit. The climate is one of the by no means favourable district,

worst possible for Tomatoes, yet, may be taken as a trustworthy

notwithstanding, our gardening re- guide for private garden practice,

sources and skill are such that much which, however, varies much and

excellent fruit is grown. To raise is improved year by year :
it, however, is not so simple as in " Sow the seeds in February or

America, where over a vast range of early in March in pots or pans ;

the continent the Tomato is one cover lightly with sand or sandy

of the most easily grown field crops, soil, and place in a hot-bed near

Some general idea of the most sue- the glass. When the young plants

cessful methods pursued in British appear, move them to a warm house,

gardens is therefore desirable here, where they will be near the glass,

Those situated in the southern coun- to get hardened by light and ex-

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

709

posure. Pot off either singly or two
in a pot, standing at opposite sides
of the pot, so that when the time
conies to plant out the ball may be
divided through the middle, each
plant taking its share; and but
little check need be given. After
the plants are potted off they may
either be taken back to the hot-bed
for a few days, or be kept in a
warm, close house till the roots
begin work again, when they should
be moved to a light place, in order
to give strength. Plants that are
well cared for in their youth begin
to blossom and bear fruit weeks
before those which are dragged up
in vineries or in situations away
from the full light, and in our
short, often sunless, summers this
is a very important matter. If ne-
cessary, the plants should be shifted
on into larger pots, though a very
little check when they have made
some progress will do them no
harm. It will simply have a hard-
ening effect upon them. As soon
as the weather is settled in May, or
say about the third week, plant out.
In the south of England Tomatoes
will succeed in any warm position,
but they cannot have too much heat
in our climate, and though we may
plant in any warm situation, even
away from a wall, it must not be
forgotten that the warmest positions
at the foot of a south wall are the
best.

"That mode of training is the best
which ensures early ripening rather
than heavy crops that will not ripen,
and this early ripening can be best
attained by confining the growth to
one or two main stems, and these
main stems should have been started
when the plants were young, by
pinching out the leader. A two-
stemmed plant will require 2 ft. of
space or a little more; a plant having
only one stem will not require more

than 15 in. As soon as planted,
and the soil settled round them by
watering, a tie should be placed to
each stem. If against a wall, a nail
and shred may be used, but the
latter should be placed loosely round
the stem to allow space for swelling,
which it will do considerably. If
planted on the open border, a strong
stake 4 ft. long should be placed near
each stem, and a piece of matting
placed round the stake and fastened
to it first, and then the stem of the
plant should be loosely fastened
also. In the after-training all side
shoots should be rubbed off as they
appear (this will involve weekly at-
tention), and all the strength of the
plant directed upwards into the
main stem. Sometimes the leaders
are pinched when the first cluster
of flowers appears. This throws
strength into the blossoms and the
next shoot, which breaks away from
the leader and grows on till another
cluster of blossoms is put forth,
when another pinching of the leader
takes place, and so on, a check to
growth being given as each cluster
of fruit is formed. I do not think it
really matters much whether these
pinchings or checks are given or
not, for I have proved that a plant
which is allowed to grow straight
onwards, unstopped, will bear as
much fruit as the one that is pinched.
All that is gained by the pinching
is the confining of the growth to a
smaller space, and if the wall or the
fence on which the plants are to
be trained is a very low one, then
pinching may be useful, but other-
wise it is not of much value.
Beyond the pinching and training
the summer culture is almost
nothing. Weeds, of course, must
be kept down, and if the summer
should be hot and dry, mulching
and watering may be beneficial. In
cold, wet districts the plants must

7io

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

occupy a south wall, and, if possible,
lay a mound of soil (the sweepings
of the potting-shed, or the old soil
saved from the renovation or re-
newal of Vine or Peach borders
will do) against the foot of the wall,
and plant in the mound. When
the fruits are swelling rapidly and
approaching the ripening stage,
gradually remove a few of the
leaves to let in the sunshine, and
in autumn, when frost is expected,
the late fruits will ripen off if
gathered and placed in a warm
kitchen, or in a warm position
anywhere.

" UNDER GLASS. — Given a light
house and a night temperature of
60°, and the Tomato may be had
all the year round. In the open
air, in many places, it is a pre-
carious crop. Very frequently the
fruits refuse to ripen, and when they
get the colour they lack the flavour
of the fruits grown and ripened
under glass ; and very often, too,
the fruits fall a prey to a disease
not unlike in character and appear-
ance to the disease which causes
such destruction to its relative, the
Potato. Under glass I have had
one set of plants go through the
year without renewal; but young
plants should be raised at least
every year, as young plants produce
the finest fruit, and they are so
easily raised that there is nothing
gained by a prolongation beyond
a year. The plants may be raised
from seeds, but I like cuttings best,
as I think they come into bearing
earlier, and the plants are so healthy
and strong in both cases that one
need not consider the question as to
whether we lose or gain in vigour.
The seedlings are sometimes over-
vigorous, and require curtailment at
the roots in order to moderate their
exuberance. The best time to take
cuttings is in summer, say in August,

and they will strike anywhere — in a
shady place, in a frame, or under
a hand-light best, or on the shelf in
the greenhouse — in fact, anywhere.
They are best put into single pots
of small size, and shifted into larger
pots as required, until the time comes
to plant them out. If struck early in
August and grown on steadily, they
may be brought to a fruiting con-
dition in pots, and be transferred to
the Tomato-house in time to begin
bearing early in spring, when fruits
are most valuable; so that really
there need not be any break in the
crop, as the crop in possession of
the house will go on bearing till
the time of its removal, if carefully
managed. To do them justice they
must have

"A LIGHTHOUSE. — It may either
be span-roofed or a lean-to, but it
cannot be too light. In either case
it should be wired, the wires being
about as close to each other as would
be necessary for vines, and about
9 in. from the glass. The provision
for the roots may consist of narrow
brick pits, or boxes, or large pots.
Where convenient, I think the
narrow pits are best, but they need
not be more than 18 in. wide, and
2 ft. in depth. Place 6 in. of drain-
age in the bottom, fill it with turfy
loam, inclined to be rather sandy
than heavy, and top-dress when
necessary, giving manure -water if it
should be needful to swell off a crop
readily.

" The best way to train is to pinch
out the leader when the stems are
6 in. high, and from the shoots
which break away train up two.
These will form the main fruiting
stems, and should be trained up the
roof, 15 in. apart. All side shoots
should be rubbed off, and when the
first cluster of flowers show, pinch
out the leader, Select the next
leader which breaks away, and nip

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

711

out the point of that also when a
truss of blossoms has been evolved,
and so on till the shoot reaches the
top of the house. The close pinching
must be persisted in to throw the
strength into the plant ; and a few
of the main leaves may be removed
when the fruit begins to ripen, to
let in the sun to colour them. As
the bottom fruit begin to ripen and
are taken off for use, a shoot here
and there may be permitted to grow,
and these in turn will develop
blossoms, when, if the same pinching
process be adopted, a successional
crop will be started which will
prolong the season." *

TOMATOES WITHOUT MANURE. —
Mr. Muir is inclined to think we
use too much manure in the case of
Tomatoes. " Almost every one who
has anything to say on the culture
recommends at least one part of the
compost to be manure from the
stable or cowshed, and plenty of
plants, and fruit too, are produced
under this treatment, but it must be
owned that there is also a great deal
of superfluous wood, and fruits in
many instances are often neither so
perfect in form, large in size, nor so
numerous as they might have been.
Three parts of the time spent in
'cultivating Tomatoes are often
devoted to cutting back and thinning
out the shoots, work which surely
could not be over and above good
for the plants. The majority of
Tomatoes make a great deal of un-
necessary wood before any fruits
are formed, and many of them grow
.so freely that they do not fruit until
their feeding supplies have become
somewhat exhausted. My idea of
a good bearing Tomato-plant is one
which begins to fruit about 10 in.
from the ground, and continues to
bear closely as far up as the culti-
vator chooses to lead the main stems.
The fruit should be numerous, and

* Defoliating Tomatoes, see p. 773.
Tomato Diseases, see pp. 780, 781.

the superfluous growths in no way
predominating. It is, however, a
difficult matter to have Tomatoes
in this condition where much
manure is used, as the manure has
a tendency to induce the plants to
make wood rather than fruit. For
some years we have been using less
and less manure in Tomato growing,
'and in several instances we have
dispensed with it altogether, and
found the crops to be altogether
more satisfactory than hitherto.
The growths were short and robust,
and the fruit formed in large quan-
tities and swelled off and coloured
beautifully. Early in summer we
are in the habit of planting a
Tomato here and there along the
walls wherever a small vacancy
occurs, and before planting we used
to fork in a quantity of manure to
assist them, but now no manure is
employed, and the crops are good.
The very poorest of soil without any
manure might not answer, but or-
dinary potting turf will be found to
grow them to the highest state of
perfection."

Mr. Muir holds that, even in
England and Wales, "Tomatoes,
when properly managed, are far
more prolific in the open air than
under glass. They begin to bloom
and fruit almost at the ground, and
the stems throw out bunches of
flowers every few inches and yield
very fine crops. On some of our
clusters we have counted as many
as twenty, and where they were
thinned out to single fruits, some
have weighed 14 ounces each. The
flavour, too, of those grown and
ripened during the harvest time is
much superior to that of those
ripened under glass, especially in
a close atmosphere. In short, open-
air Tomatoes are so good and easily
produced, that I would advise all
who have a wall with any vacant
Tomatoes for Winter use, see p. 774.

712

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

spots on it to fill them up with this
esculent. During May is the best
time to plant. They may be grown
and hardened off along with the
bedding Pelargoniums, and be
planted out at the same time.
Many who know them to be gross
feeders think they are doing right
in giving them a rich mixture to
root into ; but that is a mistake.
The harder and dwarfer the shoots
are the better. When grown in poor
soil they flower profusely, and be-
come most prolific. As soon as
plenty of fruits have been formed —
as form they undoubtedly will on all
plants grown in nothing but pure
loam — supply them with doses of
liquid manure. Pick off all young
shoots as they form, and a heavy
crop will be the result. Wherever
we have a bare strip on any part of
our walls — and these occur often be-
tween trees — we fork in a few shovel-
fuls of chopped-up turf, and in this
plant Tomatoes. Many of the plants
are pruned in to one stem only, and
none of them are allowed to have
more than two ; in fact, it is cordons
and not bushes on which we depend
for a profitable crop. When in poor
soil, they do not make side shoots
rapidly, but they should be looked
over frequently to take these off and
to nail up the main stem."

In all the colder parts of these
islands, and where Tomatoes do not
thrive in the open air, we have a
great, but often neglected, sub-
stitute for a good climate in the
many pits and frames emptied of
bedding and other plants during
summer and early autumn. Mr.
Iggulden's practice is as follows : —
" I prefer pits with a single hot-
water pipe round, and which are
oftentimes devoted first or during
the winter to Bouvardias, then to
Kidney Beans during the spring
months, and subsequently to Melons

or Cucumbers. If such a pit is
available it may well be devoted
to Tomatoes, and, failing this,
a cold pit or ordinary Potato-
frame will do nearly as well, as it
is protection from rain rather than
heat that is indispensable during the
summer and autumn. Supposing
these pits and frames, in addition to
perfecting the crops of Potatoes, are
also required for the preparation of
summer bedding plants, the best
plan will be to have a number of
strong Tomato-plants, with perhaps
a cluster of fruit already set, ready
to plant, say, by the end of May.

" A bed previously devoted to
early Potatoes just suits Tomatoes,
and needs no preparation beyond
the addition of a little manure to
the soil. If a bed has to be made
specially for them, a quantity of old
heating material may be used, add-
ing to this sufficient fresh to cause
the whole to become just warm
enough to give the Tomatoes a
good start. Better, however, a small
bed of half-decayed manure than a
heap of material that has heated
itself dry, as in the latter case the
small amount of loamy soil on the
surface of the bed is all the plants
would have to support them. The
depth of the manure in the pits
must be regulated according to the
depth of the walls, but any amount
from i to 3 ft. will be ample, as the
frames can be raised. The beds
may be made of any height, so long
as the heap does not become very
hot. Over the manure place a layer
about i ft. in depth of rich loamy
soil, and if the loam is rough and
fibrous, so much the better. Keep
the lights of the frames or pits on
closely, and when the sunshine or
bottom heat has warmed the soil,
plant at once.

" In pits and deep frames a con-
siderable number of plants may be

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

713

fruited, these being grown with
single stems and staked in a sloping
direction ; while in shallow frames
a few plants may be trained and
fruited somewhat similar to Cucum-
bers or Melons. I prefer, however,
in all cases where there is a depth
of 2 ft. or more at the back, to adopt
a combination of the two plans ;
that is to %ay, to cover the back
wall or boards, as the case may be,
with a number of obliquely trained
plants, and the beds with a few
spreading or trailing plants. I find
where numbers are in a pit or frame,
say about 15 in. apart and neces-
sarily staked in a slanting direction,
they are apt to shade each other ;
but if the back walls or boards are
covered with plants, these yield
surprisingly without interfering with
or being injuriously affected by
those spreading on the ground. In
frame culture it is imperative that
the cultivator be able to put on the
lights at certain times, and for this
reason the plants cannot well be too
dwarf. Now, there are few or no
really dwarf sorts to be had gene-
rally, with the exception of Vil-
morin's Dwarf, but the plants may
easily be dwarfed by burying the
stems, and as these quickly emit
roots, the plants are also strengthened
by the process. I do not recom-
mend burying the balls deeply ; the
object is best attained by trimming
off the lower leaves of the plants,
and then, after some of the soil has
been thrown out, lay them in different
directions, so as to place all the
heads where required, the soil being
then returned. This will be found
a better plan than either layering or
striking the tops in order to secure
dwarf plants, and laying them all in
before covering the balls and stems
is the only way to properly plant.
The balls should be moist when
planted, and are best slightly sunk

and marked with pegs, so that they
can subsequently be kept watered
till such time as the roots are spread
in all directions. The frames should
be kept rather close till the plants
have recommenced growth, when
air should be given freely, throwing
off the lights during hot weather.
Close early in the afternoons till
such times as the fruits are com-
mencing to ripen, when a little may
be left on during warm dry nights.
A stout stake should be placed to-
each plant, the latter having all
side shoots kept rubbed out, and be
stopped beyond either the second
or third large cluster of fruit, or ac-
cording to the head room. If what
I term the combination system is
adopted, those plants nailed or other-
wise trained to the back of the frames
should be laid down or dwarfed;
while about two plants in the centre
of each light should also be planted
in a sloping direction, pegged down
and encouraged to spread, the former
to have all side shoots removed from
the one or more main stems that
may be laid in, and the latter must
be freely thinned out where at all
crowded, the laterals being depended
upon for fruiting, and are best raised
from the soil with short stakes, or
the clusters of fruit may be laid on
pieces of slates or roofing tiles.
Wherever the stems are pegged
down they will strike root, to the
obvious benefit of the crops.

" DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION.
— It is when the foliage is wet,
and especially during dull showery
weather, that the fungus effects a
lodgment on it, and this happens
whether the plants be dry at the
roots or not. Consequently to with-
hold water from the roots, or to
increase the bottom heat as a pre-
ventive of disease, is a mistake.
Keep the foliage dry with the aid
of the lights, never syringe over-

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

head, and do not leave air on when
the nights are what are termed
muggy — that is to say, warm and
moist. It is this kind of weather
that most favours the spread of the
Potato fungus, and during its pre-
valence those growing Tomatoes in
frames have the advantage over
open-air cultivators, as they can
and ought to keep their frames dry
and close. Where the pits are
heated, a little heat should be turned
on during cold or wet weather, and
again when it is desirable to hasten
the ripening of the late fruit. The
late fruit in cold pits and frames
will generally ripen if cut in bunches
and hung up either in a forcing or
warm house or in the kitchen of a
dwelling-house."

MARKET - GARDEN CULTURE. —
Outdoor Tomatoes in market-gar-
dens are not planted against walls,
as is done in private establishments ;
but a warm situation, convenient to
water, is selected for them in open
positions, and in such positions they
produce abundance of large, well-
coloured fruit. The earliest planted
ones are generally put in the most
favourable positions, such as a warm
border, or on either side of " spent "
Mushroom ridges, where they are
well sheltered. If planted too early,
they are liable to be cut down by late
spring frosts, in which case entire
removal and replanting is the remedy
usually applied ; if the damage be
not too great, however, the sound
eyes produce shoots that eventually
carry heavy crops. Early in spring
the seeds are sown broadcast in a
frame, in which a bed of fermenting
manure, covered with 6 in. of light
soil, has been placed. These frames
are protected during cold weather
by a covering of litter or mats placed
over the sashes ; but during favour-
able weather this is removed and air
is given, in order to render the

young plants as strong, healthy, and
stubby as possible. If the plants
come up too thickly, they are
thinned, and when they are about
2 in. high they are pricked out
into 4 in. or 6 in. pots, two plants
being generally put into each pot.
Frames are sometimes prepared by
placing in them fermenting manure
in the form of a bed to^he depth of
15 in., well trodden down, on which
are placed 8 in. of soil, and in such
beds pots filled with mould are
plunged up to the brim. The
plants are then dibbled into the
pots, and the frames shut up and
kept close for a time, until fresh
root-action has taken place. They
are afterwards kept freely ventilated
until May, when the sashes are
entirely removed during the day,
and replaced and tilted up at night
and in wet weather. During the
last week in May the plants are
thoroughly hardened off, although
still unable to endure even a slight
frost, and they are planted in warm
positions, as before stated, on Mush-
room ridges or similar places. As
soon as the fruit has attained its full
size, the leaves are turned aside so
as to expose it to the sun, by which
means it ripens more readily, and is
of better colour than when shaded.
The ripe fruits are generally picked
off twice a week, leaving the
greener ones a little longer, so as
to mature themselves ; but should
frost come, all fruits are picked off,
and spread out on hay in a frame
under sashes, where they eventually
become red.

The Potato disease has often
played havoc with Tomatoes in the
market-gardens of London during
recent years. The winter and early
supply is to a great extent grown by
special growers in the warmer parts
of Sussex, and also in the Channel
Islands.

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

715

USES. — Every Jyear Tomatoes are becoming more used for
cooking and as the best of salads. The manufacture of Tomato
preserves and Tomato
sauce forms a very ex-
tensive branch of industry
in the south of France.

Large Red Tomato
(English synonyms: Large
Red Italian, Orangefield,
Mammoth, or Fiji Island
Tomato). — Plant vigorous
growing ; leaves rather
broad, dark green ; leaflets
somewhat puckered and
folded at the edges ; fruit
in bunches of from two to
four, very large, flattened
at the ends, irregularly
ribbed, 3 to 4 in. wide,
2 in. or less deep, and a

finp ripen scarlet A verv Early Large Red' or Powell's Ear]y> Tomato
nne deep SCanei. S\ very ^ natural size ; detached fruit, * natural size).

productive variety, and the

most extensively grown in the south of France, whence the fruit is
sent to all the markets, while a considerable quantity is made into
preserves. The fruit ripens rather late to suit the climate of Paris.
Early Large Red, or Powell's Early, Tomato. — Plant rather

slender, with leaves
almost always curled,
and leaflets folded back
on the upper surface,
giving to the plant a
half -faded appearance ;
fruit very numerous, in
bunches of from three to
six, ribbed like those of
the preceding kind, but
seldom exceeding 2\ to
3-5- in. in diameter, and
li to if in. in depth.
It ripens a fortnight or
three weeks earlier than
the preceding kind, and
is well adapted for

Early Dwarf Red Tomato.

climates similar to that

of Paris, This variety is one of those which are most extensively
grown.

7i6 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early Dwarf Red Tomato.— A sub-variety of the preceding
kind, from which it differs in having the stem shorter and branching,
and bearing fruit closer to the ground, its other characteristics being
the same. Its dwarfer habit renders it easier to cultivate, and
especially more suitable for forcing. When grown under the same
conditions as the other, it commences to ripen its fruit two or three
days earlier. The fruit is somewhat more flattened, more ribbed,
and smaller than that of the preceding kind, but the difference is
very slight.

Tree Tomato. — This variety, raised in the gardens of the Comte
de Fleurieu at the Chateau de Laye, near Villefranche (Rhone),
differs from all others in having a very short stiff stem, which grows
perfectly erect without any support and bears leaves which are

Upright Red Laye Tree Tomato.

very much curled, reticulated, and almost black-green. The fruit
resembles that of the Large Red Tomato and ripens nearly as
late. It would be very interesting, and, no doubt, would not be
impossible, to raise different varieties of Tomatoes which would
combine the best features of the ordinary kinds, as regards shape
and earliness, with the stiff, firm, and thick-set habit of growth of
the present variety.

Belle of Massy Tomato. — A vigorous, half-early, very pro-
ductive variety, of dwarf growth, not exceeding 3 ft. 3 in. ; stem
very thick ; leaves smooth, much divided, with purplish stalks.
Fruit slightly ribbed, produced in clusters, large, thick, resembling
somewhat Atlantic Prize ; flesh firm and delicate, not liable to split
when ripe. Not quite so early ass the sort just named, but ripen-
ing nevertheless very early and producing beautiful fruit of good
keeping quality.

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

717

Laxton's Open-air Tomato. — A fairly vigorous not very tall
plant ; leaves grayish, light, somewhat crimped. The fruit, produced
in bunches, is rather irregular in shape, but not ribbed, and quite flat

on the side opposite the stalk ; it is a little more than I in. by i£
or 2 J in. in diameter, and when ripe a very vivid scarlet. The flesh
is thick and well flavoured. Perfectly suited for outdoor cultivation,
it is as early as the Early Dwarf Red Tomato, but not quite so
compact in habit.

7i8

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Atlantic Prize Tomato. — The best open-air Tomato for pro-
ducing large crops ; it is vigorous, and as early as a heavy cropper
can be. The fruit are numerous, rounded, slightly flattened at the
lower end, fleshy, and of excellent quality, quite smooth, and
dark scarlet-red. The leaves are curled like those of the Large
Early Red Tomato.

Marvel of the Market Tomato.— A vigorous bushy plant,
3 to 4| ft. in height ; leaves large, dark green ; leaflets rather large,
rounded, reticulated ; fruit round or slightly flattened, a little over

Laxton's Open-air Tomato.

Atlantic Prize Tomato.

3 in. in diameter, smooth, bright scarlet, in large bunches ; flesh
pink. A very productive and vigorous variety, not liable to disease.
The fruit are medium-sized, keep and travel well without splitting
or deteriorating, and especially suited for market supply and
export.

Chemin Red Early Tomato. — An excellent variety raised
near Paris ; a tall, vigorous, early-flowering plant ; the foliage is
slightly crimped at the base of the stem, but entire and rather
curled towards the top. The fruit, which set readily, are some-
times produced in bunches of seven or eight, but they attain
to better size when only three or four on a bunch ; they are

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

719

almost round, or slightly heart-shaped, as thick as broad, flattened
very seldom, and only when very large. This thickness and
solidity of flesh gives to the Chemin Tomato the prominent place
it occupies. It is productive, and one of the best for canning.
Its relative earliness suits it to the climate of Paris. In the south
of France its long productivity and the beauty of its fruit are much
appreciated.

Purple Champion Tomato. — In habit intermediate between
the Upright Tree Tomato and
the other varieties ; the stem is
short, stout, and erect, unless
overloaded with fruit. Leaves
dark green, stiff, much reticulated
and crimped. The fruit is
medium-sized, very smooth, well

Marvel of the Market Tomato.

Champion Tomato.

shaped, and rather flattened. A half-early variety, vigorous,
productive, and fairly hardy. Its only defect, to French taste, is
its purple colour.

Scarlet Champion Tomato. — Obtained in France by selection
from the Purple Champion Tomato and has all the characteristics
of the latter, differing from it only in colour, which is a beautiful
scarlet-red, for which reason it is fast superseding the Purple variety
in France.

720

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Perfection Tomato. — A very handsome variety, intermediate
between the Trophy and Hathaway's Excelsior, with smooth
leaves. More productive than Hathaway's Excelsior, with larger

and finer fruit, it is superior to the Trophy in its greater earliness and
the regularity with which it ripens its fruit in the climate of Paris.
The fruit is a fine deep scarlet, quite smooth, thick, more or less
flattened, very solid and fleshy, well suited for canning. Ripens
about mid-season.

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

721

Trophy Tomato.— Plant large, tall, and vigorous, like that of
the Large Red Tomato, but still later than that variety ; fruit
flattened at both ends, regularly rounded or faintly sinuated, from
about 2j to 4 in. in diameter, and from if to nearly 2j in. in
depth. It is difficult to keep this variety absolutely pure, the fruit
always having a tendency to revert to the ribbed shape, and the
same plant will often be found bearing fruit which are smooth and
others with ribs more or less distinctly marked.

The Stamford Tomato, raised by Mr. Laxton, the well-known

Perfection Tomato.

English grower, comes very near this variety. It has rather smaller
fruit, but more regular in shape than those of the Trophy Tomato,
and the flesh is thicker. It is intermediate between the Trophy and
Hathaway's Excelsior Tomato.

There has been grown in the neighbourhood of Paris, under the
name of T ornate Rouge Grosse Lisse a Feuilles Crispees (Smooth
Red Curled Tomato), a variety with very smooth fruit, much
flattened at the lower end ; owing to their depressed shape they
lack thickness and consequently weight ; and besides, they ripen
very late, a serious drawback where, as happens too often, only one
half of the Tomatoes ever attains complete maturity. The early

722

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Chemin Tomato is much superior to this variety, and will no doubt
supersede it entirely.

Mikado Purple Tomato. — A tall, vigorous, rather late variety,
much more suitable for warm climates than for Paris. Stems
very tall and stout, leaves of a special character, with only a
few leaflets, but those unusually large. Fruit very large, smooth,
flattened, but very thick and purple, like the Acme Tomato.

Trophy Tomato.

Mikado Scarlet Tomato. — The principal merit of the Mikado
Purple Tomato is that it has produced the Scarlet form here
described. It has all the good qualities of its parent, besides
greater earliness and brighter colour.

Scarlet Ponderosa Tomato. — The result of a selection made
in Europe among the purple-coloured Ponderosa Tomato, which
it has entirely superseded. The fruit has the same enormous size,
is quite smooth, and a colour more in harmony with French taste.

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

723

Golden Queen Tomato. —Fruit large, smooth, flattened, bright
yellow, sometimes tinged orange on the sunny side. A fine pro-
ductive half-early Tomato, but, like all the yellow Tomatoes, more

curious than useful so long as consumers continue to favour the
red varieties.

Apple-shaped Red, or Hathaway's Excelsior, Tomato.— rPlant
of medium vigour, about the same size as the Large Early Red
Tomato-plant, but with the leaves less curled ; fruit almost spherical,

724

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

quite smooth, 2 in. or more in diameter, and borne in bunches
of from three to six. They ripen a little earlier than those of
the Large Red Tomato, but some days later than those of the

Scarlet Ponderosa Tomato.

Large Early Red variety. The flesh is more solid than that of
the ribbed Tomatoes, and the fruit keeps well when the skin is
not cracked or otherwise injured.

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

725

Apple-shaped Purple, or Acme, Tomato.— A very handsome,
productive, and rather late variety, bearing some resemblance to
the preceding kind in the shape of the fruit, but differing from it
in being larger, and a darker, almost violet, tint when ripe. The
bunches usually do not contain more than from two to four fruit

Round Yellow Tomato.

each, and these, although very round, are somewhat broader
than deep.

The American variety Criterion, which is almost of the same
colour as the preceding kind, differs from it in being of a slightly
elongated-ovoid shape. Its fruit is about 2 in. long and if in. in
transverse diameter.

King" Humbert Tomato. — A very distinct kind, the fruit being
of a shape unknown in Tomatoes so far. It is tall, vigorous, and
prolonged in growth, with flowers in numerous bunches. Fruit

726

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

oblong, square rather than round, often in long clusters of ten to
twelve, very fleshy, ripening regularly in succession as long as the
temperature allows. Under glass it produces abundantly and
long.

Pear-shaped, or Fig1, Tomato. — A very vigorous and rather early
variety. Stem 4 ft to 4 ft. 3 in. high ; leaves numerous, not curled,
rather broad, and deep green ; fruit numerous, scarlet, pear-shaped,
more or less narrow at the base, about 2 in. long and ij in. broad

Apple-shaped Fed Tomato.

in the thickest part, borne in bunches of from six to ten A well-
grown plant may be allowed to carry from twenty to twenty-five
bunches. In the south of Europe, especially near Naples, a great
number of Pear-shaped varieties of Tomatoes are grown, among
which this strain appears to us most worthy of note for earliness
and productiveness. The Pear-shaped kinds are considered to
keep better than any others. At Naples the plants are pulled
with their fruit, and hung under cover, in the autumn ; the fruit
are then picked as they are wanted during the winter, or even

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

727

until the new crop is ready. The English variety named Nisbetfs

Victoria should be referred to the Pear-shaped section, although it

is a rather distinct form

of it. This Tomato is

more of a long egg shape,

and broader at the lower

end than a true pear

shape. The fruit are

borne in bunches of from

four to eight, and the

plant, which is tall, stout,

and half-late, is remark-
able for the luxuriance of

its foliage.

Cherry Tomato.—

Plant comparatively

hardy, very productive,

and vigorous; stem about

4 ft. high, thick and

stout, very branching, and

bearing an abundance of

very green, flat leaves.

The flowers commence to

appear a week later than

those of the Large Early

Red Tomato. Fruit spherical or slightly flattened, scarlet, about

i in. in diameter, and growing in bunches of from eight to twelve.

A well-grown plant may be allowed to carry more than twenty

bunches, especially if the fruit are gathered as they ripen. This

is a mid-season variety, and is very productive, notwithstanding

the small size of the fruit.

The Red Currant
Tomato {Solanuni racemi-
forum, Dun.) is sometimes
grown for table use, but
more frequently as an
ornamental plant. Fruit
rounded, small, and scarlet,
produced in long clusters
of twelve, fifteen, or even
more, containing an acid
pulp.

Amongst the numerous

King Humbert Tomato.

Pear-shaped, or Fig, Tomato (branch,
§ natural size).

which we have
mentioned : —

not described, the

varieties
following

of Tomatoes
deserve to be

728

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Beauty. — Productive, fairly vigorous; fruit medium -sized,
smooth, purple-red. In the United States this is considered one
of the best of the purple Tomatoes.

Belle de Leuville. — Fruit of the same shape as the Large Red
Tomato, with faintly marked ribs, smooth, well shaped, remark-
able for its crimson tint, almost violet when ripe. This variety
was raised at Leuville, near Arpajon, in the vicinity of Paris. The
new round-fruited kinds are at the present day preferred to it, but
it appeared before any of the American or English varieties which
are now so extensively grown.

Blenheim Orange. — A beautiful medium-sized fruit, of ex-
cellent quality, without
ribs ; slightly flattened,
and a bright orange-
yellow.

Earliana. — An
American variety recently
obtained, considered in
the country of its origin
to be the earliest of the
middle or large - sized
varieties. A small, vigorous
plant, bearing numerous
fruit in clusters of five to
eight, smooth, regular in
contour, bright red, firm
in flesh, and good in
quality.

Early Mayflower. — A handsome American variety, with
medium-sized fruit, very smooth, and intensely coloured, but
though named "early," it ripens rather late.

Early Optimus.— Half-dwarf, fairly early ; the fruit resemble
those of the Perfection Tomato, but are more flattened and less
regular in size.

Golden Trophy. — A very large yellow Tomato, smooth, late.
Honor Bright. — An American variety, ripening late ; fruit
almost round, medium-sized, bright red, keeping well. Despite
the yellowish colour of its foliage and slowness to ripen, it is much
appreciated in America for producing a late crop, as also for
shipping long distances.

Jaime Petite. — A yellow-fruited variety of the Cherry Tomato.
Fruit numerous, golden-yellow, and perfectly round.

Large Yellow Tomato.— An American variety of the same
shape and almost of the same size as the Large Red Tomato.
The fruit is very deeply ribbed, and very inferior to that of the
Round or Smooth Yellow Tomato.

Cherry Tomato (branch, 5 natural size;

TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE

729

Peach. — A very distinct, tall-growing, fairly vigorous variety,
characterised by the metallic blue of its foliage. Fruit perfectly
round, of the size of a greengage plum, and a peculiar and pleasing
pink ; it is produced in long clusters of from ten to twelve. A
half-late variety.

Scarlet Turk's Cap. — A curious red-fruited kind, with fruit
under the average size, and distinguished for the abnormal
development of a portion of the carpels, which forms in the centre
of the fruit a protuberance similar to that which is seen in the
Turk's-cap, or Turban, Gourds. This variety is half-early and
moderately productive.

Stone. — A vigorous-growing variety, with large, regularly
shaped fruit, scarlet, very smooth ; flesh quite solid and firm.

Yellow Pear-shaped. — This is simply a variety of the Pear.-
shaped Tomato with bright yellow fruit. As in the case of the
red-fruited form, there are numerous kinds of it, differing from
one another in size and earliness.

a very
Leaves

STRAWBERRY TOMATO, SMALL MEXICAN TOMATO,
or BARBADOES GOOSEBERRY

Phy salis pubescens, L. Solanacece.

French, Alkekenge jaune doux. German, Judenkirsche. Flemish, Jodekers. Italian^
Alchechengi giallo. Spanish, Alquequenje. Portuguese, Alkekengi.

Native of South America. — Annual. — A plant with
branching, angular stem, from about 2j to over 3 ft. high,
heart-shaped or oval, soft,
hairy, and somewhat
clammy; flowers solitary,
small, yellow, marked
with a brown spot in the
centre ; calyx bladder-
shaped, very large, en-
closing one juicy orange-
yellow fruit about the
size of a cherry ; seeds
small, lenticular, smooth,
pale yellow ; their germi-
nating power lasting for
eight years.

CULTURE. — In the
south of France this plant
grows very well in the
open air, without requir-
ing much attention, but Strawberry Tomato (£ natural size).

730 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

in the climate of Paris it is advisable to sow it in a hot-bed,
and treat the plants like Egg-plants or Tomatoes.

USES. — In the south of Europe the fruit is eaten raw and for
the sake of its slightly acid taste.

Another species (P. peruviana, Hort.) produces yellow berries,
which are eaten raw or made into a preserve. It differs
but little from P. pubescens. P. Barbadensis, Jacq., is also in
cultivation.

The plant introduced lately under the name of the Small
Mexican Tomato is probably Pkysalis edulis, Sims. It is a
true annual of rapid growth, and ripens its fruit perfectly in
the climate of Paris. Its properties are medicinal rather than
culinary.

The Physalis Alkekengi, L., is a perennial plant, sometimes
grown for ornament under the name of Winter-Cherry. German,
Blasenkirsche. French, Alkekenge officinal.

TURNIP
Brassica Napus, L. Crucifera.

French, Navet. German, Herbst-Rube. Flemish and Dutch, Raap. Danish, Rce.
Italian, Navone. Spanish and Portuguese, Nabo.

Native country uncertain. — Biennial. — The Turnip has been
cultivated from a very early period. There appears to be no doubt
that it originated either in Europe or Western Asia, but the precise
locality is unknown. The root is swollen and fleshy, variable in
shape according to the variety, being cylindrical, conical, pear-
shaped, spherical or flattened, and equally variable in colour,
white, yellow, red, gray, or black ; the flesh is white or yellow,
sometimes more or less sugary, and sometimes pungent and slightly
acrid. Leaves oblong, usually lyrate, and divided to the midrib in
the lower part, sometimes oblong entire, and always a light green
colour, and more or less rough to the touch ; flower-stem smooth,
branching ; flowers yellow, in terminal spikes, and succeeded by
long, slender, cylindrical, long-pointed siliques or seed-vessels, each
of which contains from fifteen to twenty-five very small spherical
seeds of a red- brown colour, and sometimes, though rarely,
almost black. Their germinating power lasts for five years. The
varieties of Turnips are exceedingly numerous, and we must
confine ourselves to the enumeration of the kinds which are most
commonly cultivated.

CULTURE. — The Turnip is an autumn-cropping plant, the main
crop always coming in late in the season, and the time of sowing
varying only a few weeks, according to the earliness of the different
varieties. In the neighbourhood of Paris, the latest varieties are
sown from June 25th to July 25th, and the earliest kinds from

TURNIP 731

July 25th to August 25th. After this date, sowings may be made
up to about the middle of September of very early kinds, from
which a supply of half-grown roots may be obtained towards the
end of the year, and even m spring ; as Turnips when not fully
grown will not be injured by being left in the open ground during
the winter, if they are protected by a covering of dry leaves or
straw. It is rather difficult to grow Turnips in spring, and the
earliest and tenderest varieties are the only kinds that can be satis-
factorily used for that purpose; and even then it sometimes happens
that the plants run to seed without forming roots fit for use. The
seed may be sown in February in a cold frame, the only kinds
employed for this purpose being the Early Flat varieties, the Round
Croissy Turnip, and the Jersey Navet. After March I5th the seed
may be sown in the open ground, and, by making successional
sowings about once a month, a continuous supply may be ob-
tained up to the coming in of the ordinary season's crop. Turnips
are generally sown broadcast in beds; but the work of thinning
out, hoeing, and all other operations connected with their culture
are more easily done when they are sown in drills. The seedlings
ate hardly overground when they are liable to be attacked by their
greatest enemy, the Turnip-fly, from which it is most difficult to
protect them, seed having sometimes to be sown twice or thrice
over in consequence of the ravages of this insect. As soon as the
young plants are well up, and have made a few leaves, thinning out
should commence, and be continued at intervals until all the plants
are finally placed a suitable distance apart. Plentiful watering is
necessary, if the weather is hot and dry, as, in order to ensure
good quality in the roots, the plants must not be allowed to suffer
any check in their growth. For table use, the roots are usually
taken up before they have attained their full size, being more
tender and more delicate in flavour when only half or three-quarters
grown.

A good variety, or growing the should be sown on a favourable spot

best kinds, is not the whole secret on a south border. The first time

of securing the best roots. This can the soil is in good working order in

only be done through good culti- March, put the first seed in out-of-

vation, and Turnips will repay doors, and sowings may be made

attention as well as any other crop. monthly from then until the end of

Poor, gravelly soil will never August, putting different kinds in

produce tender, sweet roots ; well- to follow one another according to

manured land seldom fails to grow their earliness.

good Turnips. It is, therefore, well Early in the season Turnips may

to see that the soil has been pro- form a first crop on the ground for

perly prepared for them before sowing the year; but later on, especially in

the seed. This applies to crops at the case of the winter ones, the seed

all seasons. In spring the earliest may generally be sown on ground

732

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

which has been cleared of Peas,
Potatoes, or such like. In spring
deep digging and plenty of manure
suit them well, but in sowing after
other crops, as suggested, manure is
not often wanted and the soil need
not be turned over; a hoeing and
raking of the surface will suffice in
most cases. Drills should be drawn
not more than 2 in. deep, and i ft.
apart is a good distance in spring,
but 1 8 in. may be given to those
that have to stand the winter. Tur-
nip seed germinates freely ; it is
rarely bad, and therefore thin sowing
should be the rule. The young
plants soon appear above ground,
and in favourable weather they grow
so quickly that it is almost necessary
to begin thinning as soon as the
plants can be taken hold of, as
crowding has an injurious effect on
them at first. It is a good plan to
thin them all twice. At first they
should be thinned out to 6 in. apart,
and the second time every other one
should be removed, which will leave
the plants for the crop standing at
i ft. apart or thereabouts.

Snails are sometimes trouble-
some ; they eat off the young plants,
but a slight dusting of lime or soot
generally prevents them from doing
much harm, and dressings of the
kind assist greatly in keeping away
the grub and insects that often
disfigure the roots. The Turnip-
fly, too, does not like coming in
contact with soot or lime; and a
slight dusting of one or the other,
or both of these, may be given to
the plants in a young state, whether
they are much in want of it or not.
At all times the surface of the soil
between the rows should be kept
open and free from weeds, and this
is best done by using the Dutch
hoe frequently. In hot, dry weather
Turnips soon become bitter and
stringy, and in this state they are

far from good ; but by a little fore-
thought and attention no one need
ever be obliged to use such, as by
sowing small patches frequently a
constant supply of delicate roots may
be secured. When many of them
become ready for use together, part
of them may be taken up and stored
in a cool shed. They will keep
longer there than they would do in
the ground, but Turnips taken up
too soon lose part of their flavour ;
therefore they should always be
left in growing quarters as long as
possible. In winter some take up
their Turnips and store them away
like Beet or Carrots ; but nothing
is gained by doing that, and it
should never be practised unless the
weather is unusually severe. The
Chirk Castle should never be
stored, except for convenience, as
it is rarely injured by frost ; but in
frosty or snowy weather it is some-
times difficult to get them out of the
ground.

Turnips do not submit readily
to forcing. Frames are the only
places in which they can be treated
properly. They must not be forced
hard, as this causes them to run
to leaf and flower without forming
bulbs. The best way is to make up
a very gentle hot-bed in February
or March. Place a frame and some
rich soil on the top, and sow the
seed broadcast thinly. Give abun-
dance of air as soon as the young
plants can be seen, and never coddle
them up with coverings or maintain
a very close atmosphere unless the
weather really demands it. As the
plants increase in size, thin them
out to a few inches apart, and the
bulbs may be used as soon as they
are the size of cricket-balls A.S an
artificial manure for Turnips, no-
thing equals superphosphate. This
may be dug into the ground before
sowing, or it may be sprinkled thinly

TURNIP

733

in the drills when opened for the
reception of the seed.

The Soil most suitable for
Turnip culture is a rich, friable,
sandy loam, on which medium-sized
roots of excellent quality may be
produced without the aid of much
manure ; and the fresher the soil
the better flavour the crop, — for
which reason preference is always
given to those grown on arable land
after corn crops, as the kitchen-
garden soil is frequently too rich in
decayed vegetable matter, and has
to support a much greater variety
of tap-rooted plants, which extract
the elements necessary for their
growth from the soil. For this
reason the main crop for winter
use should be grown in a similar
manner to main crops of Potatoes,
outside the kitchen-garden proper;
and if fresh land be available every
year, the results will be all the
better. In light dry soils well-
decomposed manure must neces-
sarily be supplied ; for if the young
plants lack nourishment sufficient
to ensure a healthy growth, insect
plagues invariably attack them in
dry periods, and the crop will be
hard and stringy. But perhaps the
most difficult soils to deal with are
stiff, cold, retentive ones, for without
a good seed-bed successful results
are well-nigh hopeless. Under such
circumstances it is a good practice
to draw deep drills the required
distances, and fill them up with
light rich soil, wood-ashes, bone-
dust, or guano, in which to deposit
the seed, whereby the young plant
gets quickly into rough leaf, and
grows out of the reach of insects.
In dry soils Turnips are often, in
hot seasons, not only of inferior
quality, but it is also difficult to get
the seeds to germinate freely and
regularly, and to induce the young
plants to make a sufficiently rapid

growth to escape the ravages of the
fly.

CULTURE IN MARKET-GARDENS.
— The earliest sowing of Turnips is
made in the end of January or early
in February, in pits or frames, or
on hot-beds without frames ; and
main sowings are made broadcast
on a field about the end of February,
or in March, to be succeeded by
another sowing made in April.
After the plants come up they are
thinned, and the surface soil is at
the same time loosened by means
of small hoes. The largest roots
are first drawn for market ; thus the
plants get thinned, and those that
remain have more space for develop-
ment. For early crops, when grown
in brick pits, 2 or 3 ft. of rough
fermenting material is cast into the
pit and firmly trodden down, and
on this is placed a few inches in
thickness of garden soil, which is
also made firm. The seeds are
then sown broadcast, and afterwards
the frame is kept close and moist
until germination has taken place,
when plenty of air is admitted on
every favourable opportunity. If
the seedlings come up too thickly,
they are thinned out to 3 or 4 in.
apart. Frame Turnips are never
large ; the aim is to grow them
quickly to the size of a hen's egg,
when they are tender and of good
flavour, and to market them at
once. The method of growing
them in hot-beds without frames is
to cast out trenches 18 in. deep,
6 ft. wide, and of any length, and
firmly fill them with manure ; over
this a coating of soil is placed, and
rolled or beaten solidly with the
back of a spade ; the seed is then
sown, slightly covered, and finished
off by rolling again ; hoops made
of hazel sticks are then fixed over
the beds, so that they can be covered
with mats, and in the event of hard

734

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

frosty weather setting in, some
strawy litter is added to the cover-
ing. If the weather is mild, the
mats are let down every day so as
to admit light to the young plants ;
and as soon as it can be done with
safety, they are removed from over
the beds and left erect around their
sides in order to ward off winds.
Sometimes the aid of either frames
or hoops and mats is dispensed
with, and the crop is grown on hot-
beds like those just described, a
little loose litter being merely strewn
over the surface until the plants are
established; in this way excellent
Turnips are produced a week or

two later than those which have
been protected. Some growers use
the space between the lines of
frames for growing Turnips ; and
well it answers for that purpose, as,
owing to the soil being below the
general level, it keeps comparatively
moist, and the belts of frames pro-
tect the plants considerably. The
soil between Turnips is kept stirred
with the hoe as frequently as pos-
sible, for no crop is more benefited
by surface stirrings than this. Spring
Turnips are generally got off the
ground in time to permit of it being
cropped with French Beans, summer
Cabbage, Spinach, or Celery. *

USES. — The roots are boiled, and served up in various ways.
In spring the young shoots or " tops " may also be used, especially
if grown in a dark place, when they furnish a very delicately
flavoured vegetable, somewhat like the Sprouting Broccoli, t

A. LONG VARIETIES

Half-long White Forcing Turnip. — A very pretty variety,
intermediate in shape between the White Carrot-shaped Turnip

and the Jersey Turnip, but
smoother, less leafy, and
earlier than either. It is
unrivalled for forcing, suc-
ceeding, if sown under glass
in the spring, better than
any other variety known.
The foliage is light, very
much cut, and quick in
growth. It is less liable to
run to seed than any other
v-V Turnip if its growth be
properly pushed.

White Carrot-shaped,
or Pointed Vertus, Turnip.
— Root pure white, cylin-
drical, ending in a long

Half-long White Forcing Turnip. ^ A

twisted, 6 to 8 in. long and

2 in. or less in diameter, visible above ground for nearly one-fourth
of its length ; flesh white, very tender, sugary ; skin very smooth,

* Yellow-fleshed Turnips, see p. 775. t The Turnip Fly, see p. 782.

LONG TURNIP

735

and dull white, both on the underground portion and on the neck ;
leaves small, dark green, numerous, deeply cut, and forming a
rather thick tuft. This variety grows very well in light, moist,

deep soil, and is extensively cultivated in
the fields about Paris for market supply.

White Carrot-shaped Turnip. Half-long White Vertus, or Jersey, Turnip.

Half-long White Vertus, or Jersey Navet, Turnip. — Root
white, nearly cylindrical, but swollen at the lower end, which is
obtuse or rounded, 5 or 6 in. long, and about 2 in. broad in the
thickest part ; flesh white, very tender, and sugary ; leaves
numerous and short, divided to the midrib in rounded lobes, and
dark shining green. This is pre-eminently the kitchen-garden
variety of Turnip, and is
the kind which is most
generally grown by the
market-gardeners of Paris,
so that it is rare to find
the Central Market without
it at any season. In the
open ground the root is
formed in two months or
two months and a half,
and the variety is also
one of the best for forcing.
Like Radishes, the roots
become hollow at the
centre, if allowed to grow
too large, and they are
generally gathered for use when about two-thirds grown.

Half-long Red-top Vertus Turnip. — In cultivation and pro-
ductiveness exactly the counterpart of the Jersey Turnip. It

Half-long Red-top Vertus Turnip.

736

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Teltow Turnip
($ natural size).

differs from it only in the purple-red colour of the part above
ground — a very pleasing characteristic, which may, in some cases,
cause it to be preferred to the white form.

Teltow Turnip. — Root entirely sunk in the
ground, conical or pear-shaped, short and small,
from 2| to 3^ in. long, and if in. broad at the
neck, and gray-white ; flesh very dry but not
hard, and sugary ; leaves very small, with
rounded lobes, not more than 5 or 6 in. long,
drooping on the ground and withering when
the root is fully formed. This is an early
variety and succeeds very well in light sandy
soil. The root, when cooked, has a peculiar
flavour, different from that of all other Turnips ;
it is milder and more sugary, and the flesh is
almost floury, instead of being juicy and melting.
The roots will keep all through the winter, and
even far into the following year, if taken up
and stored in half-dry sand.

Freneuse Turnip. — Root entirely sunk in
the ground, spindle-shaped, with a wrinkled
gray-white skin, and rather numerous rootlets, narrowing from the
neck like a Salsafy root, 5 or 6 in. long, and i^ in. or at most
if in. in diameter at the neck ; flesh white, dry, sugary, and very
firm ; leaves small, short, very much divided, and dark green,
forming a rosette which lies flat upon the ground. This variety is
grown in the vicinity of Paris in the fields, in somewhat poor or
gravelly soils, in which it succeeds better than
in stiff soil. When grown in stiff soil, the root
is often misshapen. It is the most highly
esteemed of the dry-fleshed Turnips.

The Jargeau and Rougemont Turnips, the
latter of which is a great favourite in the
neighbourhood of Pithiviers, are small dry-
fleshed Turnips which exhibit no perceptible
difference from the Freneuse variety.

Hardy White Winter Turnip. — Root
entirely sunk in the ground, white, smooth,
regular, conical ; flesh white, firm, very sweet ;
leaves large and numerous. Though not a
late variety, on the contrary a very quick
grower, it is especially suited for late sowings,
for use at the end of the autumn and during
winter. It may be left in the ground for a part of the winter.

Red-top Viarmes Turnip. — A fairly hard-fleshed variety, in
.shape like a half-long Carrot, white, with a rosy purple top. The

Freneuse Turnip
(£ natural size).

LONG TURNIP

737

flesh is white, firm, dry,

and well flavoured. It is

largely brought into the

Paris market, especially

in the latter part of the

autumn. In moist or

well - watered gardens it

may be grown for use as

early as the end of summer

and during the whole of

the autumn.

Morigny Gray Tur-
nip. — Root of a very

long ovoid shape, pro-
jecting only about I in.

overground, 6 or 7 i*1'

long, and 2 in. broad in

the thickest part, which j>

occurs at about one-fourth

or one-third of its length ;

skin rather smooth, iron-
gray or slate - coloured ;

flesh white, rather tender,

and sugary ; leaves

medium-sized, half-erect,

and of a light green. A

rather early and good

kitchen- garden variety. If sown rather late, the roots may often
be kept in the ground through the winter, provided
they are covered with straw or dried leaves.

Long Black Turnip.— Root very long, spindle-
shaped, clean skinned, almost entirely sunk in the
ground, 6 to 8 in. long, and 2 in. or more in
diameter at the neck ; skin black, as dark coloured
as that of the Winter Radish ; flesh white or
grayish white ; leaves rather stout, erect, and dark,
shining green. This is a rather early variety, and
when sown not sooner than in August, it keeps
very well through the winter, like the preceding
variety, if -covered with straw or dried leaves.
This method of preservation in winter is likewise
generally applicable to all the varieties of Turnips
which have the root deeply sunk in the ground,
and especially so to those kinds which grow with

MorignyGray Turnip the neck pf the root projecting a little above
(| natural size;. the surface and with the leaves erect rather than

47

Hardy White Winter Turnip.

738

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Long Black Turnip
(£ natural size).

spreading. The roots thus protected can be
taken up for use as they are required.

Long Yellow Turnip. — Root entirely sunk
in the ground, clean skinned, smooth, regular
in shape, gradually narrowed from neck to
point, and of a dull or wan yellow colour.
It usually does not exceed 6 or 7 in. in length,
and the diameter at the neck averages about
2 in. The flesh is yellow throughout, fine in
texture, rather firm, sugary, and agreeably
flavoured. Leaves half-erect, rather divided,
and a peculiar dark green. A somewhat late
variety, but excellent for table use, of very
good quality and keeping well.

Parisians are prejudiced against the Yellow-
fleshed Turnips, supposing that the yellow
colour is always accompanied by a strong and

bitter flavour, which is far from being the case, as amongst the

Yellow-fleshed Turnips there are varieties the flesh of which is

very mellow and very delicately flavoured, quite as much so, in

fact, as that of the White-fleshed kinds. The

prejudice, nevertheless, exists, and consequently

should be taken into account by those who

cultivate vegetables for the markets.

Long" White Meaux Tuf nip. — Root very

long, cylindrical, but ending in a point, and

very often twisted or curved, projecting 2 or

3 in. overground, 12 to 1 6 in. in length, and

2 or 3 in. in diameter. All the underground

portion is white; the overground part is some-
times cream colour and sometimes tinged with

pale green. Flesh white, close, half-dry, rather

sugary; leaves medium-sized, lyrate, numerous,

erect or half-erect. This is a very productive

variety, and is principally grown in its native

district for the supply of the Central Market

of Paris in the latter end of winter. In order

to keep them up to that time, the market-
gardeners of Meaux cut off the " tops " of the

plants soon after taking them up, and pile the

roots in trenches, covering them over with

sand. During the winter they bring them

to market in bundles, and, as the roots have

been deprived of their leaves, they are fastened

together by a straw rope passed through them Long Yellow Turnip

near the top. (i natural size).

LONG TURNIP

739

Long Green Tankard Turnip. — Root half-sunk in the ground,
nearly cylindrical in the upper part, and regularly narrowed in the
portion underground — which is white, the above-ground part being
green — 12 to 14 in. long, and about 3 in. in diameter ; flesh white,
tender, and rather juicy; leaves large, half-erect, rather broad, and
light green. A very productive variety, the root attaining a consider-
able size. Though more grown for feeding cattle than for table use,

Long White Meaux Turnip
(| natural size).

Long Green Tankard
Turnip (£ natural size).

Long Red Tankard Turnip
(i natural size).

if pulled while young and tender it is not a bad vegetable. When
grown in the fields, it is sown in July, and yields almost as heavy
crops as the large late kinds, such as the Norfolk Turnips and others
which require to be sown in June.

Long Red Tankard Turnip. — This variety very nearly
resembles the preceding, but the upper part of the root is violet-
red instead of green. It is also, on the whole, somewhat shorter
and thicker than the Green Tankard variety, and, like it, is more

740 THE VEGETABLE ^GARDEN

grown for cattle-feeding than for table use. The Red Tankard
Turnip is much cultivated and highly esteemed all through Central
Europe, from Poland to England, but it is only in France that the
most regular forms of it, as regards shape and colour, are to be
found. The forms grown elsewhere generally have the roots too
short and top-shaped, and the upper part more of a pink or lilac
hue than really red.

The Navet-rave de Bresse is only a late long-rooted form of this
variety.

B. ROUND OR FLAT VARIETIES

Early White Flat Dutch Garden Turnip.— Root a broad disc
shape, often sinuated and not regularly rounded in outline, 4 or 5 in.
in its greatest diameter, and about I J in. in depth ; flesh white,
tender, not very sugary, and of good quality ; leaves half-erect,
lyrate, and divided at the base as far as the midrib. This is a

very early variety, and is suitable both
for forcing and for late sowing in the
open air. Like all the flat varieties
which we shall describe, this Turnip

Early White Flat Dutch Garden White Strap-leaved American Stone Turnip

Turnip (£ natural size). (£ natural size).

merely rests on the surface of the ground, into which it does not
sink farther than by sending down a slender perpendicular tap-root,
which does not ramify until it reaches a certain depth.

White Strap-leaved American Stone Turnip.— This variety
differs chiefly from the Early White Flat Turnip in having shorter
leaves with an oblong entire blade, which is toothed on the margin,
but not divided or lobed. The root also is slightly thicker and
rounder. Along with the preceding and the five following
varieties, this is an excellent kind for forcing. As in the present

ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP

741

instance, we shall often meet with similar varieties which only
differ from each other in the leaves being divided in the one kind
and entire in the other. This difference by itself is of no import-
ance, and is only noteworthy when
combined with some special recom-
mendation of earliness or good
quality.

Early Red-top Flat Garden
Turnip. — The root of this variety is
of the same size and shape as that
of the Early White Flat Dutch
Garden Turnip, but differs from it
in the violet-pink colour of the upper
part. It is grown and used in exactly
the same way. In the east of France,
under the name of Navet a Collet
Rose de Nancy, a good form of this
variety is cultivated, which almost
resembles the Early Purple-top
Munich Turnip.

Red-top Strap-leaved American
Stone Turnip. — A very flat variety,
and of very regular shape, differing
from the Early Flat Red-top Turnip
in having entire leaves, not lobed at the base, and also by being at
least four or five days earlier. The leaves are erect and stiff, and
as they are also rather short, this is a very suitable variety for
frame culture. It has also the merit of forming the roots freely,
even when grown in spring, and of being slower to run to seed than
most other Turnips. Yet, notwithstanding all these good qualities,
it is possible that the Purple-top Milan Turnip may, on account of

its greater earliness, supersede
it to some extent for forcing
purposes. The present variety
is also often sown in the open
ground. It was raised in
America.

Milan Purple-top Strap-
leaved Turnip. — This hand-
some variety is only a form
of the Red-Top Strap-leaved
American Turnip, but is so
distinct that it deserves a

Red-top Strap-leaved American
Stone Turnip (i natural size).

Milan Purple-topped Turnip.

separate notice. The root is small or medium-sized, very flat, quite
smooth, pure white on the underground part, and bright violet-red
on the upper part. The leaves, which are entire, rather erect, and

742

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

very short, are few for the size of the root. It is one of the earliest
varieties known, and is well adapted for forcing, even in spring.
White Milan Turnip. — Root small, very smooth, flat, entirely

white, with a slender
tap-root ; leaves small and
few, undivided, oval. A
variety of the Purple-top
Milan Turnip, described
above, quite as early, as
well suited for forcing and
milder in flavour.

Croissy, or Round
Early Vertus, Turnip.—
Root sunk in the ground,
round, or slightly top-
shaped, from 2| to 3^ in.
in diameter and depth,
and with a tap-root of

White Milan Turnip.

some length ; skin white, smooth ; flesh very white, tender, sugary,
and very agreeably flavoured; leaves medium-sized, erect, and light
green. A very good early variety, and a great favourite with the
Parisian market-gardeners-. It is one of the
best kinds for forcing.

Early Six Weeks', or Jersey Lily,
Turnip. — Extremely smooth slightly flattened
root, just half as thick as broad ; underground
portion white, the upper part cream-white ;

Croissy, or Round Early
Vertus, Turnip
(£ natural size).

Jersey Lily Turnip.

leaves cut ; foliage light and vivid green. Half-early, very neat
in shape, never producing large roots. A garden, not an agricultural
Turnip.

ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP

743

White Round
Epernay Turnip. — A
very pretty variety ; root
dull white, spherical or
top-shaped, resembling
somewhat the Jersey
Lily and the Round
Vertus Turnip. Flesh
quite white, firm, sweet;
leaves few, broad, and
divided. Remarkably
early, and for its ex-
cellent keeping qualitv
may be recommended
for market growing.

Purple-top White
Globe Turnip. — Root
large, quite round, white
underground, and purple
on the upper part for
about one-half of the
length of the root ;
leaves very broad, little
divided, dark green,
tinged with brown during winter.

Scarlet Kashmir Turnip.

White Round Epernay Turnip.

Of good quality for the table ;
yields heavy crops, and may
be recommended also for
cattle-feeding purposes.

Scarlet Kashmir Turnip.
— Root rounded, flattened,
quite smooth, and a beautiful
bright red, more like a Radish
than a Turnip. The flesh is
white, of good quality, and
keeps well. A native of
Kashmir.

Chirk Castle Black Stone
Turnip. — Roots rounded,
flattened, the diameter being
nearly double the depth —
usually 4 or 5 in. across and
about 2 in. deep ; skin of a
uniform rather deep black or
a very dark gray ; flesh white,
firm, close, half-dry, sugary,
and very well flavoured ; leaves

744

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

lyrate, very slight, half spreading, and deep green. An early
variety, of remarkably good quality, and bearing a striking
resemblance to the Black Turnip Radish. The perceptible
differences in shape which are often observed in this variety
depend chiefly upon the extent to which its growth has been
developed. The root soon ceases to extend itself vertically, and
then, in proportion as it swells horizontally, it either becomes
more or less flat or else remains almost spherical.

Yellow Flat Purple-top Montmaguy Turnip. — Root very
handsome, flat, half-sunk in the ground, dark yellow on the lower
part and dark violet-red on the upper portion, often 5 or 6 in. in
diameter, and 3 in. or more deep ; flesh yellow, rather firm, tender,

Chirk Castle Black Stone Turnip
(£ natural size).

Yellow Purple-top Montmagny Turnip.

and of very good quality ; leaves medium-sized, lyrate, dark green,
and generally almost flat upon the ground. This very fine variety,
which has been raised recently, has already become highly valued
and much sought after in the neighbourhood of Paris and in
England. It is productive, half-early, and keeps well. The very
striking contrast between the yellow and the red parts of the roots
gives it a very peculiar and pleasing appearance, which, together
with its earliness and the superior quality of the flesh, are powerful
recommendations in its favour. It is one of the most agreeably
flavoured of all the kitchen-garden varieties of Turnips, especially
when taken young, before it has attained its full size.

Yellow Dutch Turnip.— The root of this variety is flattened
at the top, but still comparatively deep, so that it might be con-
sidered intermediate between the Round and the Flat varieties.

ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP 745

It seldom exceeds 3 or 4 in. in its greatest diameter, while its
depth or vertical measurement is between 2 and 3 in. Skin
uniform yellow on the underground portion of the root and light
green on the upper part ; flesh yellow, tender, sugary ; leaves
medium-sized, half-erect, and of a light green colour. This is a
half-late kind, and keeps well. It is one of the best kitchen-garden
varieties.

Yellow, or Golden, Maltese Turnip.— Root very much
flattened at both ends, being about 2 in. deep, and 4 or 5 in. across
in its widest part ; skin and flesh pale yellow ; neck green, very
distinctly marked ; leaves rather small and slight, divided, and
dark green. This is a good half-early variety, but the roots are
sometimes rather strong flavoured. It is decidedly the flattest

_. .. _ . , „ . Yellow, or Golden, Maltese Turnip

Yellow Dutch Turnip. (1 natural size).

variety of all the Yellow-fleshed Turnips, amongst which it holds
the same place that the Early White and Red Turnips occupy
amongst the White-fleshed kinds.

Yellow Finland Turnip. — Root perfectly flat and even
concave underneath, so that the tap-root which descends into the
ground appears to issue from the centre of a kind of depression or
cavity ; the upper part, on the contrary, is rather convex or conical
in outline. The root is seldom large, being usually not more than
3 or 4 in. in diameter across, and 2 in. or less in depth. Skin very
smooth, and of a fine golden-yellow colour, as is also the flesh ;
leaves very short and compact, not much divided, sometimes quite
entire in the forms imported directly from Finland. This is an
exceedingly hardy and rather early variety, and very suitable for
sowing late in autumn. While the roots are young, the flesh is

746

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

very fine and agreeably flavoured, but afterwards it becomes

somewhat strong and unpleasantly bitter.

Orange Jelly Turnip (English synonyms : Golden Ball and
Robertson's Golden Stone Turnip). — Root
perfectly spherical when not very much
grown, but slightly flattened when it has
attained its full size ; it is then generally
4 or 5 in. in diameter every way. Skin
very smooth and yellow ; flesh yellow, soft,
and well flavoured, but slightly bitter ;
leaves of medium height, rather broad

Yellow Finland Turnip
Q- natural size).

Orange Jelly Turnip.

lyrate. This variety is half-early, and highly esteemed in Scotland

and the north of England.

The following varieties are usually grown for cattle, but may

also be used for the table if pulled before fully grown : —

Early Stone, or Stubble, Turnip.— Root somewhat top-shaped,

slightly flattened, white,
except on the part over-
ground, which is usually
tinged with green, nearly
5 in. in diameter in the
widest part when well grown,
and from 3-^ to 3! in. deep;
neck broad ; flesh white,
tender, sugary, and soft ;
leaves stout and tall, erect,
broad, and not muchdivided.
Root rather late in attaining
its full size. This variety

is most generally grown for feeding cattle, and is seldom sent

to table, although, when taken young arid tender, the roots are of

good quality.

Early Stone, or Stubble, Turnip

ROUND OR FLAT TURNIP

747

Strap-leaved White Globe Turnip.

was raised in Anjou, and is especially

White Norfolk, or Cornish
White, Turnip. — Root spherical
or very slightly flattened at the
top, pure white, 6 or 7 in. in
diameter and about 5 in. deep when
full grown ; flesh white, tender, and
somewhat watery ; leaves very tall,
erect or half-erect, with stout stalks
or midribs. This is a very late
variety, and is exclusively grown
in the fields. There is a sub-variety
of it, the Green-top Norfolk Turnip,
in which the overground part of
the root is of a green colour ;
and another, the Red-top Norfolk
Turnip, in which the same part is
of a reddish violet colour. There
is hardly any difference between
these and the White variety in the
size of the root or in the manner
of growing them. All these kinds
should be sown very early to attain

Strap - leaved White
Globe Turnip.— Root of
regular spherical shape ;
skin very smooth and en-
tirely white, except where
it is marked by a few scars
around the neck, indica-
ting the positions of the
earliest leaves; flesh white,
firm, and close grained ;
leaves long, erect, entire,
of a very long oval shape,
toothed on the margin,
and of a rather pale or
light green colour ; neck
very short and fine. One
of the characteristics of
this variety is the quick-
ness with which the root
becomes spherical. When
fully grown it measures
about 5 or 6 in. in
diameter. This variety
suitable for field culture.

Norfolk Turnip.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

their full size, and consequently they only succeed well where the
climate is moist and cool, or where the weather in summer is not
very dry. Nothing, in fact, is more injurious to Turnips than dry,
hot weather, which causes destructive insects to become more
active in their ravages, while the growth of the plants is at the
same time, so to say, suspended by it. While it lasts, they form
no new leaves, and those which they already have are riddled into
holes and almost entirely destroyed by the Turnip-fly, to the great
injury of the growth of the roots.

Early Red-top Flat Auvergne Turnip. — Root very flat on
the top, about 2 in. deep, and often 6 or 7 in. across ; skin very
smooth, and a rather pale violet-red for the whole of the upper
portion of the root ; flesh white, rather soft and watery ; leaves tall,

divided, broad, and numerous. This
is a very productive variety, and
succeeds best in granitic or schistose
soils. It is more grown for feeding
cattle than for table use.

The local strains of Auvergne
Turnip are very numerous and
cannot well be divided into early
or late sorts ; the beautiful Lezoux
variety is an example of this : it
is quite flat below and above, about
three times as broad as it is thick,
and attains the size of a Basque
beret or cap, which it resembles in
shape. In a sense it is early, as it
bulbs rapidly, but, on the other hand,
it takes a long time to develop fully.
Late Auvergne Turnip.— Root
two-thirds sunk in the ground, top-
shaped, but tolerably flattened, 3 or 4 in. deep, and about 6 in.
across ; the upper portion is of a violet-red, or rather dark bronzy
colour ; leaves broad and stout, more tufty in growth and darker
in colour than those of the Early variety. This variety is even
more suitable for field culture than the preceding one, being
seldom grown for table use outside of its native district. The
central plateau of France, on account of its elevated position,
possesses a climate very favourable to the cultivation of large-
sized Turnips, and there we find the two largest kinds of Turnips
that are grown in France, namely, the Auvergne and the Limousin
varieties.

The Ayres Turnip, which is grown in the departments of Tarn
and Tarn-et-Garonne, appears to us to be identical with the Late
Auvergne Turnip.

Late Auvergne Turnip (\ natural size).

TURNIPS

749

Limousin Turnip. — Root roundish or slightly top-shaped when
young or badly grown, very large, broad, and slightly flattened on
the top when fullv grown, when it not unfrequently measures 10 in.

in its greatest diameter
and at least 6 in. in
depth; skin smooth,' en-
tirely white; flesh white,
not very sugary ; leaves
very large and tall. This
variety is only grown in
the fields. As it is a
late kind, it is especially
adapted for cool, moist
climates, where it can be
sown in June. It is the
largest and most pro-
ductive of the Turnips
which are grown in

Limousin Turnip (i- natural size).

In addition to the
foregoing varieties we may also mention the following : —

Amber Glpbe Turnip. — Root almost round or, more usually,
top-shaped, pale yellow, with a green neck ; leaves entire, long,
and light-coloured ; flesh pale, sugary. An American variety,
highly esteemed in the United States.

American Strap-leaved Turnip.— Comes
very near the White Globe Strap-leaved
Turnip, having, like it, a white, rounded root,
slightly top-shaped, and large, entire leaves.

Briollay Turnip.— This variety, which
was raised in Anjou, bears some resemblance
to the White Tankard Turnip, but is smaller,
shorter, thicker, and deeply sunk in the
ground. It is also of better quality and
more suitable for table use, being a true
kitchen-garden Turnip and not a cattle-
feeding variety, although it is often used for
that purpose, as all other kinds of Turnips
are when they have grown too large.

Clairefontaine Turnip.— Root spindle-
shaped, straight, smooth, grayish white, rising
little from the ground ; flesh white and tender.
Suitable for growing in ordinary soil, less delicate and less exacting
than the Vertus Turnip.

Cruzy Turnip. — A very distinct variety. It is the only dry-
fieshed Turnip which has a perfectly flat root. Skin a gray-white.

Long Briollay Turnip.

750 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

The root is nearly twice as broad as deep, and is often irregular in
shape.

Early Chantenay Turnip. — This very much resembles the
Chirk Castle Black Turnip, like which it has the root tolerably
flattened, but is not so deeply coloured, being more gray than
black.

Early Snowball Turnip. — An early kind, with a globular or
slightly flattened root of a pure white colour. It differs from the
Early Stone Turnip in having no green colouring around the neck.
Gray Flat Russian Turnip. — Root tolerably flattened, fully
one-third broader than deep, with an iron-gray skin marked trans-
versely with whitish lines. A hardy variety, but not superior to
the Chirk Castle Black Turnip.

Gray Luc Turnip. — A small dry-fleshed Turnip, with a long
root, tolerably like the Freneuse Turnip, but with the skin some-
what more wrinkled and grayish.

Gray Saulieu Turnip. — Root spindle-shaped, resembling that
of a half-long pointed Carrot, four times as long as broad ; skin
gray, somewhat wrinkled ; flesh firm, dry, sugary, and slightly
yellow.

Green-top Six-weeks' Turnip. — Root flattened, fully a third
broader than deep, often growing to a considerable size, white on
the underground part and green at the neck ; flesh white, tender,
sugary, and rather firm. Ripens early.

Malteau Turnip.— Root elongated, of a long ovoid shape,
shorter and thicker than that of the Freneuse Turnip, which it
resembles in its leaves and in the texture of the flesh of the root,
which is very dry and firm. A good variety, and still pretty largely
grown in the vicinity of Paris.

Nancy Flat Purple-top Turnip. — A handsome form of the
Early Flat Purple-top Turnip, remarkable for its earliness, the

regularity of its shape, and the
very deep colour of the upper
part of the root. It hardly differs
from the Munich Turnip, which
even surpasses it in earliness.

Petrosowodsk's Purple
Turnip. — A violet - coloured
variety of the Finland Turnip,
~T~ and similar in shape, having the

Purple-top Munich Turnip. . r ' . . ° ,

same marked depression in the
under-part of the root around the tap-root. The leaves are
sometimes lyrate and sometimes entire.

Purple-top Munich Turnip. — Remarkably early, resembling in
shape and size the Early Flat Red-top Turnip, but violet in colour,
deepening to purple in the part above ground.

TURNIPS

Purple-top Scotch, or Tweeddale's Improved, Turnip. — A

sub-variety of the Yellow Aberdeen, differing only from that in the
purple colour of the neck.

Round Green-top Dry-fleshed Turnip. — Root globular, slightly
flattened, rather resembling that of the Des Vertus or Croissy
Round Turnip, but distinguished by the green tint of the neck and
the flesh of the root being as firm and
dry as that of the Freneuse Turnip.
The leaves are deeply lobed, half-
spreading on the ground, and of a
light green colour. This is a half-early
variety and keeps well.

Sablons Round White Turnip. —
Root ovoid, one-third longer than
broad, rather like that of the Croissy
Round Turnip in every respect except
its shape ; flesh white, close, sugary,
and half-dry.

Scaribritsch Turnip. — Root flat-
tened, clean skinned, and regular in
shape, one-fourth broader than deep ;
neck fine, green-coloured ; the re-
mainder of the root yellow ; flesh
yellowish white, tender, firm, and
sugary ; leaves very light in colour.

Scarlet GratschefFs Turnip. — The same in shape as the Yellow
Finland Turnip, but somewhat larger, more flattened below, and
bright purple in colour.

Schaarbeck Turnip. — This variety is grown in the neighbour-
hood of Brussels, where it is highly esteemed. It is a flat white
variety with a green neck, early and small sized, with flesh of fine
texture and excellent quality.

White Egg Turnip. — Root ovoid, one-third longer than broad ;
skin very white and very smooth ; flesh white, firm. This variety
is highly thought of in the United States, where it is to be met
with in large quantities in the markets.

Wolton's Hybrid Turnip. — Root almost perfectly spherical,
sometimes slightly pear-shaped, entirely white on the part under-
ground, and red on the upper part ; flesh white, tender, and mild ;
leaves broad. Ripens half-early.

Yellow Aberdeen Turnip. — Root spherical or slightly
flattened, yellow, tinged with green above ground ; flesh
light yellow, rather firm ; leaves large, half-erect, smooth, dark
green.

Yellow Bortsfeld Turnip.— This differs from the ordinary
Long Yellow Turnip by being more slender in shape, by growing

Round Green-top Dry-fleshed
Turnip (£ natural size).

752

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

not so deeply sunk in the ground, and having the neck a greenish
colour. Its quality is good and it keeps well.

Yellow Globe Turnip. — An American variety, coming very
near the Yellow Dutch, but somewhat paler in colour and more
spherical in shape.

Yellow Scotch Turnip. — An early variety, with a spherical
or slightly flattened root, rather pale yellow in colour, and some-
times tinged with green at the neck. Root very clean skinned,
almost entirely sunk in the ground ; flesh pale yellow, tender, and
sugary.

Yellow Tankard Turnip. — An English variety, with an
elongated spindle-shaped root which is twice as long as broad, and
pale yellow, except at the neck, which projects slightly from the
ground and is greenish. Flesh pale yellow, close grained, and of
a mild flavour. Ripens early.

UNICORN-PLANT

Martynia, LindL Sesamacece.
French, Martynia. German, Gemsenhorner.

The plants of this genus are tall, stout, vigorous annuals.

Stem fleshy, i£ to if in. in diameter ; leaves large, heart-shaped,

gray-green, and somewhat hairy ; flowers
large, resembling those of a Catalpa in
shape, and yellow or lilac, according to
the species ; fruit long, ovoid, curved,
and terminating in a long hooked point,
and enclosed in a soft green kind of
shell, which dries up when ripe, the
fruit then becoming woody and blackish,
and the extremity dividing into two
long crooked horns, as it opens to allow
the seed to escape ; seeds large, black,
with an irregular rough or shagreened
surface. Their germinating power lasts
for one or two years.
CULTURE. — These plants require a good amount of heat, and

it is advisable to sow the seed in a hot-bed and either allow the

plants to complete their growth there or plant them out in good

soil in a warm place.

USES. — The fruit, gathered while young and tender, is pickled

in vinegar. It should be gathered when not more than half-grown,

as, after that, it becomes too tough and leathery.

The Yellow-flowered species (M. luted], is a native of Brazil,

and is a plant- of moderate size, somewhat trailing in habit, and

Unicorn-plant (\ natural size),

UNICORN-PLANT

753

yielding an abundance of small-sized fruit. It is the kind most
grown for pickling in the United States.

M. proboscidea, Glox., a violet-flowered species, has fruit of
larger size and with longer horns. It is a native of Louisiana.

AFRICAN VALERIAN
Fedia Cornucopia, Gaertn. Valerianacece.

French, Valeriane d'Alger. German, Algerischer Baldrian. Flemish, Speenkruid.
Dutch, Speerkruid.

Native of Algeria. — Annual.— Stems erect, branching, smooth,
I ft. to 1 6 in. high ; leaves almost all radical, oval-oblong, entire,
bluntly toothed, and a rather dark, shining green ; flowers pink in
terminal clusters ; seeds
yellow or grayish, oblong,
thick, convex on one side,
and marked on the other
with a deep longitudinal
furrow. Their germina-
ting power lasts for four
years. The seed may be
sown in the open ground,
from April to August, in
drills 10 to 12 in. apart.
When thinned out and
plentifully watered in
hot weather, the plants
quickly form rosettes of
leaves, which are fit for use in about two months after sowing.
The plant is somewhat sensitive to cold, and is not so suitable
for sowing in autumn as the Corn-salad. It is often grown for
ornament. The leaves are eaten as salad.

African Valerian (-J natural size).

French, Macre.

WATER-CHESTNUT

Trapa natans, L. Haloragacece.

German, Wasser-Nuss. Flemish and Dutch, "Waternoot. Spanish,
Nueis.

Native of S. Europe. — Annual. — An aquatic plant with a long
stem which reaches to the surface of the water. Submerged leaves
opposite ; floating leaves alternate and arranged in a rosette at the
top of the stem ; blade of the leaf diamond-shaped, broader than
long ; flowers white, axillary ; fruit large, dark gray, bearing four
very stout spines arranged cross-wise, two of them being much
longer than the others. The germinating power of the fruit does

754

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

not last longer than one year, and to ensure even this they must
be kept in water. The plant is not usually cultivated, the fruit

Water Chestnut (Taff natural size).

Fruit (natural size).

being gathered where it grows wild. The kernel of the fruit, which
is floury and of a very agreeable flavour, is eaten boiled.

WOODRUFF

Asperula o do rat a, L. Rubiacece.

French, Asperule odorante. German^ Waldmeister. Dutch, Lieve vrouw bedstroo.

Native of Europe. — Perennial. — This plant is chiefly found in
woods or shady places. Stems weak, prostrate, bearing whorls of

oval-lanceolate leaves which are finely
toothed on the margin, and very rough
to the touch, as are also the stems ; flowers
small, pure white, with four divisions,
and growing together in a spreading
corymb ; seed almost spherical, gray,
and bristling with a large number of
very small recurved points. The whole
plant exhales a very agreeable perfume,
especially when dried. The Woodruff is
seldom cultivated except as an ornamental
plant. It is perfectly hardy, and grows
well either in a bed or as an edging,

if planted in g°°d moist s°>' in a ha'f-

shady position. In the north of Europe
the leaves are sometimes used to flavour beverages.

WORMWOOD

Artemisia Absinthium, L. Composite.

French, Absinthe. German, Wermuth. Flemish, Alsem. Danish, Malurt. Italian*
Assenzio. Spanish, Ajenjo.

Native of Europe. — Perennial.— This plant is often grown in
gardens on account of its medicinal properties. Stems 3 to 5 ft.

WORMWOOD

755

high, rough, and branching ; leaves numerous, small, very much
divided, and a gray colour, especially underneath ; flowers green,
not at all striking, borne
in clusters at the^ends of
the branches ; seed gray,
very small. Its germi-
nating power lasts for four
years on an average.

CULTURE. — Worm-
wood may be multiplied
either from seed or from
cuttings or divisions of
the roots. If planted in
a somewhat sheltered
position, the plants will
be less likely to suffer in
very severe winters. They
require no other care, and
will continue productive
for ten years or longer.

USES. — The leaves
are sometimes used for
flavouring, but the plant
is chiefly employed in
liqueurs.

Wormwood.

the manufacture of various kinds of

YAM (CHINESE)

Dioscorea Batatas, Dene. Dioscoreacece.

French, Igname de la Chine. German, Chinesische Yam. Spanish, Name, Igname.

Native of China. — Perennial. — The Yam was introduced into
France in 1848, through the agency of M. de Montigny, the
French Consul at Shanghai. It is a perfectly hardy plant, with
annual, twining, smooth, green or violet-coloured stems, from 6 to
nearly 10 ft. long. Leaves opposite, heart-shaped, with a rather
long point, of a dark green colour, and very glossy on the upper
surface ; flowers dioecious, very small, white, growing in clusters
from the axils of the leaves, and generally barren. Sometimes,
instead of flowers, small tubers or bulblets are produced, from
which the plants may be propagated. The stems trail along the
ground, if they do not find some support on which they can climb.
In climbing, they twine from right to left. From the neck of
the root issue rhizomes of great length, -which, as they descend into
the ground, become swollen into somewhat of a club shape. The
flesh is slightly milky, and very floury when cooked. The rhizomes

756

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

are furnished with numerous rootlets and almost imperceptible
buds, from each of which a plant may be produced. They descend
almost perpendicularly into the ground, attaining a length of from
2 to over 3 ft, their growth being most active in the latter end of
autumn. Being perfectly hardy, they may be left in the ground
during the winter, and will increase very much in size in the course

of the second year, but their
quality is not then so good
as at the end of the first
year. The lifting of the
rhizomes is a rather difficult
and expensive operation, as
they are rather brittle, and,
in order to take them up
whole, the ground must
often be dug to the depth
of a yard or more round
each root. This is probably
the reason why the plant
is so little cultivated in
Europe, as it is very hardy
and productive, and the
rhizomes will compare
favourably with Potatoes.
The flesh is white, light in
texture, mild in flavour and
easily cooked. The rhizomes
keep well and for a very
long time.

CULTURE. — The Yam
succeeds well in very good,
moist, and sufficiently dug
soil, and may be propagated
by means of the axillary
bulblets, or from rhizomes,
either whole or cut into
portions. The method which
generally produces the most

Chinese Yam (* naturalize.; ^^ ^ abundant resuhs

is to plant whole rhizomes, from 8 to 10 in. long and about
as thick as one's finger. It is advisable to furnish the plants
with stakes or other supports to climb on, as the ground is
then more easily hoed. In very dry weather, watering is very
beneficial, as the Yam likes moisture and stops growing when it has
not a sufficient supply of it. In November the time arrives for
lifting the rhizomes, and if the soil is deep and rich enough; one

YAM (CHINESE) 757

may expect to meet with some which are thicker than the wrist
towards the end and weigh over two pounds each. Smaller ones
also are usually found which are better for planting. Instead of
planting them at once in the open ground, they may first be potted
about the beginning of March, and planted out about May 1 5th.
The crop then comes in earlier, arid is also heavier.

Many attempts have been made to raise a variety of Yam with
shorter roots which would not penetrate so far into the ground.
These attempts cannot be said to have entirely failed ; on the
contrary, they have succeeded too well, as varieties have been
raised with nearly round rhizomes, clustered around the neck of
the plant, but of such feeble growth that the season's yield only
represented three times the weight of the rhizomes which were
planted. A productive variety of Yam with short roots still
remains to be discovered, and perhaps may be found amongst the
numerous varieties lately imported from Japan, and which arc now
being experimented on in France. The rhizomes are eaten like
Potatoes, boiled, fried, and prepared in various ways.

ADDENDUM

BY W. P. THOMSON

ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM)

THERE is now a white variety of this which is a great improve-
ment on the type. The improvement lies in the fact that the
white form not being so rugged is far more easily prepared, thus
saving a great deal of trouble which follows when the old purple
variety is used. If a careful selection of the tubers is made and
good cultivation given, the roots of the white form may be still
further improved in shape, while the quality also will be better.

In reference to the popular and common name of this
vegetable it is not an artichoke at all, but a perennial sunflower —
Helianthus tuberosus being the Latin name. The word Jerusalem
given to the root of a sunflower is a stupid corruption. To try
to find out if possible a good English name the editor of one of
our gardening papers started a competition inviting readers to
send in a suitable name. The competition was very brisk, and
the name Sunroot was by the judges considered the best. For
clear and simple English and true meaning the word Sunroot is
a very appropriate one, but we doubt whether the word will come
into general use. In the growing of the Sunroot good culture is
all-important. We were recently consulted as to the reason of the
tubers being poor and of very inferior quality. On inquiring as to
the cultivation it was clear that there had been no cultivation at
all. The tubers had been planted thickly in poor soil in an out-
of-the-way part of the garden, and had been left to shift for
themselves. If under this maltreatment the plants get so crowded
that the leafage can get no light and air, it is but little wonder
that tubers are poor. The* ground for the Sunroot must be deeply
trenched and given a good dressing of manure, fair even-sized
tubers being planted in February or March, in rows 24 in. apart
with 12 in. between the tubers in the row.

BEANS (CLIMBING FRENCH)

These are gradually becoming more popular, and within recent
years many excellent and prolific varieties have been introduced.

758

BEANS 759

The chief advantage gained in their cultivation when compared
with the dwarf- growing kinds is that, like the Scarlet Runner
Bean, they yield a continuous succession of pods over a long
period, and the necessity for making frequent sowings is therefore
dispensed with. From a cultural point of view they require
precisely the same treatment as dwarf French Beans, the only
difference being that as the plants attain a height of 5 to 5| ft.,
and have therefore to be supported with long rods or pea boughs,
it is necessary to allow a distance of some 4 to 5 ft between
the rows.

Owing to their being capable of producing pods successively,
they are, where accommodation exists, of great value for forcing
under glass, the plants being grown either in pots 12 in. in
diameter or in narrow borders of soil, in which case the growths
may be trained to strings or bamboo canes.

The following are reliable varieties : —

Fillbasket. — A very productive variety. One of the best of
this type of French Bean. Quality first-rate.

Tender and True. — An excellent variety and very prolific.

Earliest of AIL — A first-rate early kind to grow for first crop.

BEET (A NON-BLEEDING)

The great drawback to the careless handling of Beet is that
if bruised in any way it is very liable to bleed when being cooked,
and thus the rich colour of that best of all Beets — Clultenham
Green Top — is spoiled. During the last few years a variety known
as Galloway Purple has been put into commerce. This variety
may be cut in two before cooking and will not lose colour, a
decided gain.

CABBAGE

SOWING AND PLANTING. — The most important sowings of
Cabbage are those which are required to furnish a supply of plants
through the spring, early summer, and autumn months. These
sowings should consist of several varieties that succeed each other
in coming into use. Very early kinds should not be sown too
early in summer, as there is a possibility of their running to seed in
dry weather. From the third week in July to the second and third
weeks in August is the time usually chosen for sowing to obtain
plants for setting out in autumn, these coming into use in spring,
the time varying according to the season, soil, and locality. As a
general rule the latter end of July and the early part of August are
found to be the best time for sowing. Plants from seed sown at
that time are generally ready to plant out by the end of September
or beginning of October, and they then have ample time to get
established before winter sets in. For autumn supply a sowing

760 . ADDENDUM

should be made from the middle of March to the second week in
April, and if the resulting plants are set out in June and July
they will then come into use in August and September. If a
second and larger sowing be made in the last week of April and
the plants set out in July and August they will come into use
from October to December. A sowing of a dwarf kind that hearts
quickly made in May and again in June will furnish plants yielding
nice little heads for use from October onwards, which with the
greens produced from the stumps of those that have previously
been cut will last until Spring Cabbage comes in. Two excel-
lent varieties for this purpose are the London Rosette Colewort
Cabbage and the Hardy Winter Colewort, the latter being the
more suitable for winter use. Cabbage plants intended to stand
the winter are best put out in firm ground which has been enriched
for a previous crop, such as that which has previously carried a
crop of Onions or other surface-rooting plants whkh have not
impoverished the soil too much. The ground must of course have
been well manured for the previous crop or good results cannot be
expected. A firm stiff rich soil is best for Cabbages, for if grown
in loose light soil they do not heart so well, neither is the quality
so good.

Cabbage seed should be sown on light rich land or on that
approaching more nearly to such a condition, and the plants should
not be allowed to overcrowd each other before they are set out.
As soon as large enough to handle, the seedlings should be pricked
out from 6 to 8 inches apart, or be thinned out and the remainder
transferred to their final positions as soon as they are sufficiently
large. The distance to plant Cabbage apart depends on the
variety grown ; but from 18 in. to 2 ft. between the rows, and
from 15 in, to 1 8 in. between the plants in the rows, will generally
be found sufficient if the ground is in good heart.

CUTTING. — A little more attention should be paid to this than
is usually the case, as when a commencement to cut is too long
deferred a great waste ensues. Supposing Cabbages of such
varieties as will begin to turn in from the early part of March till
the beginning of summer are planted in autumn, it is folly to wait
until the heads in each particular instance become firm or hard
before commencing to cut them, as a great many will, unless the
demand is equal to the supply, then burst, go to seed, or rot. To
obviate this, cutting should begin as soon as the hearts start to
form on the more forward of the plants ; and as the stems will
break and put forth sprouts which will ultimately form hearts, no
loss but a gain really accrues, as they will be fit for cutting before
or by the time the first crop of heads is finished. It is the rule in
many gardens to reserve the main lot of old plants, after the hearts
have been cut in spring, for the purpose of securing a yield of the

CABBAGE 761

hearted sprouts referred to over a long period. That the supply
may be an abundant one care is taken at the first cutting to
remove no more than the heart portion or such as is actually
required for cooking, as the greater number of leaves left on the
stems the more plentiful will be the yield of sprouts, or " collards "
as they are sometimes termed. If the ground is well stirred and a
good mulch of short rotten manure or a dressing of a suitable
fertiliser applied, the plants will continue yielding a succession of
sprouts for nearly a whole year round. To sum up : cut Cabbages,
even if you have to give them away, before the hearts get too far
advanced or too fully developed, when there will always be a con-
tinuance of young and tender heads coming on.

The Cabbage is one of the most important of green vegetables
for market-garden culture, and although not considered by many
so profitable on account of its gross feeding character, it comes into
use when there is little else to send to market, and often realises
high prices. In spring large areas of Cabbages may be seen in the
various market gardens round about London. Those sent to
market in April, May, and June are the produce of seed sown in
July, the plants being put out in September or early in October.
Successional crops are raised in spring as soon as the weather is
favourable. If sown too soon the young leaves become damaged
by frosts, especially if these occur after a period of mild
weather.

Enfield Market is grown extensively in the market gardens
about London. It is one of the oldest in cultivation and one of
the best, and for this reason growers generally save their own seed
and take great care that their stocks of it do not get crossed with
other sorts. The sowing for the principal crop of this variety is
generally made about the end of July and up to the middle of
August, on poor ground if possible, as in that case the plants come
up stocky and hardy and stand the winter well. On rich ground a
soft rank growth results which is more susceptible to injury. The
sowing is as a rule made in beds 4 ft. in width, which is found to
be more convenient for hoeing and weeding. When large and
strong enough to be transplanted the plants are set out on ground
cleared of Onions or Potatoes, and a second batch on ground
cleared of Celery, French Beans, or Vegetable Marrows. Every
vacant space, under fruit trees or elsewhere, is planted with
Cabbages. In planting, the ground is lined off into rows 30 in.
apart, and in these the plants are set 15 in. asunder. Between
every two rows another is then put in, thus making the whole of
the plants stand 15 in. apart each way. Early in spring the
alternate rows of plants and every other plant in the lines are
pulled and sold as Cole.worts. This admits of the permanent crop
having ample space for development and coming to maturity.

762 ADDENDUM

With a view to subsequent plantations, which are made all through
the winter wherever ground becomes vacant, the young plants are
taken from the seed bed and pricked out into other beds some 5
in. to 6 in. apart in order to keep them fit for planting. In this
way many of the plants are kept till spring, when they are set out
to form a succession to those planted in autumn, and to come in
before the produce of the spring sowings made late in February or
early in March to furnish Cabbages from June to August. The
plants from this sowing are put out in lines 2 ft. to 2 J ft. apart, and
in the intervening spaces are put lines of Lettuces, a plant of which
is also put between every other Cabbage in the rows. In May the
tying up of early Cabbages may often be observed in market
gardens round London and elsewhere. This is done in a similar
manner to that adopted in the case- of Cos Lettuces. The outer
leaves are carefully folded round the hearts and the whole secured
with a withy or piece of bast or raffia. There are several good
reasons for the practice. The hearts being protected from the
weather develop more quickly than they would otherwise do, and
are more easily handled in gathering and packing for market.
Early Cabbages, the leaves of which are very brittle, would lose
half their value if some precaution of this kind were not taken to
prevent damage being done in the loading and unloading.

Red Cabbages are sown in March and July, but the best
produce is obtained from sowings made in the latter month
both in private and market gardens. The plants in the latter
case are set out in rows 3^ ft. to 4 ft. apart, and the plants
stand about 3 ft. asunder in the rows. As this crop stands until
the heads are large and solid, a piece of rich ground is devoted to
it and intercropped with Potatoes, ordinary Cabbages, Lettuces,
French Beans, or other vegetables of a similar nature.

VARIETIES. — In addition to the varieties illustrated and de-
scribed in the body of the work, the following are deserving of
mention, as they represent the best types of Cabbages in culti-
vation at the present day : —

Harbinger. — This, without doubt, is one of the earliest
Cabbages for spring use. From a sowing made late in July, small
compact hearts may be had in favoured districts ready for cutting
late in February or early in March. The growth is small and
compact, and the plants can be set out as close as 15 in., both
between and in the rows. It is of first-rate quality. It is an ideal
Cabbage for private gardens, and one of the best for autumn sowing.

Early April. — A distinct early Cabbage much larger than the
preceding, compact in growth and coming into use, as its name
denotes, early in April. Excellent for autumn sowing.

Ellam's Early. — A valuable early variety coming into use in
mid April and early in May. Growth more spreading than in the

CABBAGE 763

preceding varieties, hearts from medium to large in size, according
to soil. Good for autumn sowing.

Flower of Spring". — A fine early Cabbage for April and May
supply ; similar in habit of growth to the last-named variety, and
forming compact well-shaped hearts of first-rate quality. First-
rate for autumn sowing.

Wheeler's Imperial. — An excellent early variety in every
respect, and much esteemed by many growers for spring cutting.
It should be sown in autumn for the latter purpose.

Early Offenham. — A Cabbage much grown for early cutting
by market growers round London and in other parts of the country.

Early Rainham. — Like the preceding, this is an excellent
Cabbage for market, and like that variety should be sown in autumn.

Improved Nonpareil.— One of the best for autumn cutting.

Main-crop. — Excellent for late autumn use.

Christmas Drumhead. — A fine variety for cutting in mid-winter.

Winnigstadt. — This is a very fine cabbage and very distinct,
but it is not by any means fitted for early spring use as some
people are led to believe. If sown in the autumn and planted
out with the idea that they will come in in the spring, the result
will be very disappointing. The plants grow to a great size, but
form no hearts, and consequently are of no value. If seeds,
however, are sown in May or June and the plants given a
good larder, fine hearts will in due course be formed, and which
will come into use from November to January, and be found
of excellent quality. In our opinion this early winter cabbage
is superior to Savoys, which, however, are useful later. By growing
Winnigstadt there is no need for early Savoys, which are in our
opinion not required until January, after they have been exposed
to the frost, the quality then being very much improved in that
the rank flavour is absent.

London Rosette Colewort— The best for autumn and early
winter use.

Hardy Green Colewort. — A fine variety for winter use.

ONIONS FOR EXHIBITION

Those who grow the handsome bulbs now forthcoming at our
vegetable shows up and down the country in the autumn,
purchase now, or as soon as the seeds can be had, a packet of a
good stock of Ailsa Craig, Cranston's Excelsior or Premier. Then
early in February growers for exhibition get one or two shallow
wooden boxes according to the number of plants required, bore
holes in the bottom for drainage, and put into each a layer of rotten
leaves or well-broken horse-droppings with on top an inch or more,
as the case may be, of rich soil with which has been well mixed
some sharp silver sand. Be careful as to the sowing of the seed.

764 ADDENDUM

The usual way is to use a very small stick or a pencil with which
to make holes a quarter of an inch deep and about half an inch
apart all over the surface of each box, dropping one seed into each,
covering them up and watering through a fine rose, then standing
in a frame close up to the glass and keeping close until the
seedlings appear. If the sun shines strongly it is advisable to
shade the boxes in order to prevent the soil becoming too dry.
Directly the seedlings appear, give all the light possible, and thus
encourage the plants to become stocky. During the time the
seeds are germinating get some other boxes filled in the same way
as above detailed, and when the seedling onions are, say, 4 in. high
lift each one carefully, so that none of the roots are injured, and
dibble them into the newly filled boxes 2 inches apart each way.
Return the boxes to the. frame and keep close until the young
plants are growing freely, and when they have got a good root-
hold they may have plenty of air. Towards the end of April or
in the early days of May the plants, after having been well
hardened off, may be carefully lifted from the boxes with a hand-
fork or a trowel and planted out in rows 18 in. apart and 10 in.
apart in the rows.

The ground in which these large exhibition bulbs are to be
grown should have been in the previous winter or in the early
spring trenched to a depth of from 24 in. to 30 in — as Onions are
very deep rooting — and had worked into it, not only well down,
but also near the surface, a good dressing of well-rotted manure,
choosing cow manure if the soil is inclined to be light. This
should have been done some few weeks before the time for
planting out the Onions comes, in order that the soil may settle
down. When the young plants are growing freely, and the
weather is dry, occasional doses of liquid manure are very
beneficial and help swell the bulbs. Nitrate of soda is also good,
but it should be given at the rate of no more than 2 Ib. per rod,
as it is apt to encourage leafage and softness of the bulbs. Top
dressings of soot are very helpful, but such are in our opinion
better when worked into the soil when the ground is being
prepared. As was said above, Onions are very deep rooting in
well-trenched soil, and cases have been known where the roots
were found at a depth of 2 ft. In the case of Onions there is no
need to grow them in fresh quarters every year, in fact we know
of a gardener who never used to even dig the onion quarter, the
soil of which was very light. After the year's onion crop had
been harvested he used to procure from the home farm fresh cow
manure and lay it over the onion bed to a thickness of 6 in.
This was allowed to lie until the time came round in the following
spring for sowing, when the manure, from which all goodness had
been washed down into the soil, was raked off, the surface

PEAS 765

levelled, the lines drawn, and the seed sown. This plan was
followed every year, and there always were fine crops of good-
sized bulbs which invariably kept well.

PEAS

With every suitable appliance the Pea season in the British
Isles may extend from the middle or end of June until the end of
October, and in exceptional seasons as late as the second week in
November. Peas gathered earlier than the period stated are
grown under glass, and the very late peas are, as already stated,
mainly dependent upon the season. The best months for Peas
are June, July, and August. In warm situations the produce of
the early south border begins to turn in about the end of May,
and green peas are common enough in June, but July and August
are the months for Marrow Peas. In August and September,
unless the land is good and the treatment liberal, and first-rate in
every respect, there is always the possibility of a falling off both
in regard to crop and quality, so that after July successful returns
are mainly contingent on good cultivation, as shall be presently
shown.

The First Early Peas. — These, where glass is sufficient to
allow for their culture, will comprise several batches in pots of
8 in. and 10 in. size. The seed should be sown the first week
in January, varieties to consist of approved dwarf and half-dwarf
early kinds. The plants should be brought on steadily in a pit or
house close to the glass with just the smallest amount of artificial
warmth, as Peas do not force well. A steady regular growth in
a very light position, with a temperature never exceeding 45° to
50° at night, will be best. Ventilation must be given on every
suitable opportunity.

The first sowing in the open air may take place the first or
second weeks in November, provided the locality is favourable
and the soil well drained and warm. Under less favourable con-
ditions it is best not to make the first sowing until January, the
time for doing so varying according to climatic conditions. In
cold, wet districts February is quite early enough to sow outside.
Very frequently first early Peas are raised under glass, and when
hardened off are planted as early in March as the weather permits.
The seed of some favoured variety is sown in pots, troughs, or on
sods of turf, and placed in heat, when they soon germinate, when in
due course the plants are hardened off and planted on a warm
south border at the time mentioned. A ridge of earth is drawn
up on each side of the rows as a shelter, and a few evergreen
boughs are worked in amongst the ordinary sticks to afford
additional protection. To keep up a regular supply there must
be frequent sowings. But taking account of, and giving due

766 ADDENDUM

weight to, the fact that first early Peas sown during the months
of January, February, and the first half of March will not vary
more than a week or ten days as regards turning in, there is not
much use in making successional sowings of these alone during
the period named. The general rule is, after making the first
sowing, to select and sow two or more varieties such as a first early,
a second early, and a mid-season one on each occasion, by which
means a regular succession is assured. It is useless to specify
when these sowings should take place, as weather conditions at
that time of year are so variable, but in the last half of March and
from April onwards it is best to make fortnightly sowings, or to
sow again as soon as the preceding crop is just through the
ground.

As to the time when peas may be expected to be ready for use,,
the following dates may be taken as approximately correct. They
are founded on a good deal of experience and careful note-taking,
and, making due allowance for the effect of latitude on climate
and the variations of soil and seasons, may be safely acted upon.
First early peas sown before Christmas or not later than the first
week in January to the end of February should be fit to gather the
last week in May. Those of a second early type sown from the
end of January to the end of February should be fit to gather from
June loth to 2Oth. A mid-season variety sown from February 2Oth
to March loth should be fit for use from June 2Oth to the middle
of July. Marrow peas such as Veitctis Perfection and Ne Plus
Ultra sown from the middle to the end of March should be ready
about the middle of July and onwards. The tall Marrows sown
first and third weeks in April and first and third weeks in May
should produce a supply from the middle of July till the close of
the Pea season. Some people sow first and second earlies once or
twice in June, and the late Marrowfats often do well sown as late
as the middle of June.

The Late Marrow Peas. — The crop is so important that
every expedient should be adopted which can in any way enable
it to pass through its difficulties without much suffering. Men
may be seen laboriously watering peas in a hot, dry time when
less than half the time in preparatory work at the right season
would have given more satisfactory results. Mark out the sites
in J anuary or February where they are to be grown, open a trench
and fill in with a manurial compost — Peas dislike rank manure.
Save the usual decaying matters which accumulate about a garden,
mix with a proportion of manure from the stables or pigsty, with a
little soot, etc., blend the whole together and work it into the trench
where the peas will by and by be planted. When this is done early
in the season the compost will have become mellow and in a fit
condition for the roots of the plants to work into at once. As much

PEAS 767

of the soil taken out ol the trench may be thrown back and worked
up with the compost as will fill the trench to the original level.
The bottom of the trench should also be broken up. The stations
for late peas should also be got ready at the same time, and a peg
driven down at the end of each row, so that when the time arrives
for sowing all that is necessary is to stretch a line from end to end
and draw a drill 5 in. to 6 in. in width and 3 in. to 4 in. in depth.

SOWING AND GATHERING. — The large Marrow Peas should be
allowed room to branch out, which must be provided by sowing the
seed thinly in the drills. From 2 in. to 3 in. apart all over the
drill is not too much space to allow ; and this will necessitate
the careful distribution of the seeds individually by hand. In dry
weather the drills should be soaked with water and the Peas
covered with the dry soil drawn from the drills. If mice are likely
to be troublesome, dress the seeds with red lead or else keep traps
set in the vicinity of the Pea rows. To do late Peas justice the
rows should when possible run north and south and stand from
6 ft. up to 21 ft. apart. Dwarf-growing crops of other vegetables
can be grown between them. Mulching with manure is a useful
expedient, and in connection with a good preparation of the ground
at this season should render watering, except in very hot weather,
unnecessary. The mulch, which should consist of half-decayed
stable manure or similar material taken from an old hotbed, should
be spread on either side of the rows of Peas 18 in. or so wide and
3 in. or 4 in. thick. Gathering should be done carefully and as
soon as the Peas in the pods are sufficiently large enough for use.
Allowing them to become too old before doing so not only renders
them of less value and unpalatable, but by impoverishing the
plants causes a considerable reduction of crops. In some cases a
secondary crop of young shoots and blossoms will develop and a
further yield of Peas, which will be very useful, will be produced.

Tall and Dwarf Peas. — Dwarf and half-dwarf Peas are very
useful where sticks or supports cannot easily be obtained ; but
where sticks do not cost much they are best for the main crop tall
Peas, which are more prolific. In case of all Peas requiring support —
and if possible even those of dwarf habit should be supported — the
sticks should be placed to the rows early and the tops levelled off
with a pair of shears. The pieces cut off should be used between
the large sticks at the base to prevent the plants straggling through
and to induce them to grow in an upright direction. Nearly all
market gardeners near London grow Peas largely ; and although
French Peas are sent to market early in May and sold at cheaper
rates than English growers could afford to produce them, prefer-
ence is always given to home-grown Peas, for which there is always
a good demand until about September. Until the end of October,
however, fine samples of the Ne Plus Ultra type may be obtained

768 ADDENDUM

ready shelled in the market, the produce in many instances of
Surrey, Bedfordshire, Essex, and adjoining counties, from whence
comes the great bulk of both early and mid-season Peas to Covent
Garden. In making early sowings it is a practice with market
growers to choose a fine day to break down the ridges (the ground
having previously been manured and cast into ridges), measure
off the lines and draw drills in the forenoon, leaving them open
till the afternoon, so that the soil in them may dry a little and
become warmer; then to sow the seeds and cover all up before
evening. The drills vary from 2 ft. to 3^ ft. apart according to
the vigour of the sorts which are to be sown. When the rows are
close together, Lettuces and Spinach are used as intercrops, but
when more widely distant from each other Cauliflowers are then
usually planted. It many instances the first sowing of Peas is
made in December on a warm border ; but considering they must
be sown a little deeper than in January, and the risks to which the
seeds are liable from mice, birds, insects, and damp, it is a much-
disputed point among good growers whether the December sowing
has arty advantage over that made in January, many contending
that the produce of the latter is quite as early as that of the former
and the crop less subject to risks. Different growers have a
preference for different kinds, but the early dwarf sorts are those
most grown on account of their quick returns, the small space they
occupy, and because they require no stakes.

Peas are seldom staked in market gardens, the haulm being
allowed to lie on the ground. Gathering is a matter well attended
to, as the more closely the pods are picked the longer do the plants
continue to bear. Some market gardeners save their own seed,
others grow Peas for seed only. In this case the haulm is
frequently shifted from one side of the row to the other in order to
prevent the pods from rotting or from being destroyed by slugs,
snails, etc., and to expose them to the air and sun to cause all to
ripen alike. When ripe the haulm is pulled up and taken indoors
and when the seed has become dry it is shelled or thrashed out
during wet weather.

SELECT LIST OF PEAS
Early Dwarf Varieties

Pioneer. — A first-rate dwarf Pea, height about 2 ft, good cropper.
Chelsea Gem. — An excellent dwarf kind, height 18 in., good
cropper.

English Wonder.— Well-known dwarf Pea, height 2 ft., good
cropper.

Taller First Early Varieties

William the First. — A first-rate early round-seeded Pea,
height 4 to 5 ft., good cropper.

PEAS 769

Bountiful. — A vigorous free-bearing round-seeded variety,
height 5 ft.

Early Giant.— A first-rate wrinkled marrow, abundant cropper,
height 5 ft.

Duchess of York. — A fine early wrinkled marrow, good
cropper, height 4 to 5 ft.

Second Early Varieties

Centenary. — A first-rate variety in every respect, height
5j to 6 ft.

Quite Content. — A prolific variety, height 5j to 6 ft., pods
extra large.

Stratagem. — An excellent semi-dwarf kind, height 3 ft, free
cropper.

Prince of Peas. — A first-rate second early, and abundant cropper
of splendid quality.

Incomparable. — A vigorous-growing variety about 4 ft. in
height, very prolific.

Duke of Albany. — Very fine free-cropping Pea, of the highest
quality, height 6 ft.

Main-crop Varieties

Pride of the Market. — A sturdy free-cropping variety, height
3 to 4 ft.

Abundance. — A very fine prolific Pea of excellent quality,
height 4 ft.

King Edward. — A prolific variety, height about 4 ft., excellent
quality.

Prince of Wales. — A strong-growing variety, excellent cropper,
height 4 ft.

Masterpiece.— A sturdy free-bearing Pea, height 4 ft.

Veitch's Perfection. — A well-known superior Pea, an abundant
cropper, height 4 ft.

Eureka. — A very free-cropping variety, of excellent quality,
height 4^ ft

Autocrat. — A vigorous, free-bearing Pea of superior quality,
height 5 ft.

Ne Plus Ultra. — One of the best late sorts, a good cropper,
quality excellent, height 5 to 6 ft.

Gladstone. — A fine late kind, an abundant cropper, height 5 ft.

Continuity. — A prolific late variety of great excellence, height
4j to 5 ft.

POTATOES

CULTURE. — When grown in the open ground Potatoes are
usually planted from the end of March, or in April and early in
May according to locality and climatic conditions in drills or

49

77o ADDENDUM

holes made with a hoe or " setter " some 4 to 5 in. in depth, with
a distance of 12 to 18 in. between the " sets " according to their
season of use or when the crop matures, and the vigour of growth
of the varieties grown. Entire tubers of medium size are the best
for planting, and they should in all cases, especially so in regard to
early and second early varieties, be exposed some time beforehand
to the influence of light and air, so that, at planting time, they will
have green sturdy shoots on them from I j to 2 in. in length. In
this case care must be taken when planting not to break off the
shoots. The object in planting these sprouted tubers is not only
to gain time in regard to growth, but to secure greater uniformity
and vigour, while gaps or losses in the rows arising from tubers
failing to grow is obviated, and last, but by no means least, the
maturation of the crops is, to a great extent, accelerated. The
tubers should be covered at the time of planting with from 4 to 5 in.
of soil, and the general practice is to keep the soil between the rows
well hoed, and to earth up as soon as the stems have grown to a
height of 6 or 8 in. Earthing-up is very essential, as it has the
advantage of not only causing the tubers to lie more closely
together round the roots of the plants, but prevents those which
lie uppermost or nearest the surface from becoming exposed, while
the crop is the more easily lifted. Potatoes ripen, or at least
become fit for use, early in June to the end of October, according
to the varieties grown. They may be forced under glass or in
frames on mild hotbeds. In the former case large pots or boxes
of suitable depth may be utilised for the purpose. Forcing may
be commenced in December or January, and continued up to the
middle of March. The crop will be ready for lifting in from two
to three months after planting, less time being required as the
season advances between the time of planting and when the tubers
will have become large enough for use.

SELECT LIST OF VARIETIES
First Earlies

Epicure. — White, round, heavy cropper of gopd quality.

Eclipse. — White Kidney, a heavy cropper, of fair quality.

Early Favourite. — White round, good cropper, said to be of
good quality.

Duke of York.— White Kidney, medium cropper, quality first-
rate ; excellent for frame and pot culture.

May Queen. — White Kidney, good cropper, quality excellent.
Good for forcing.

Sir John Llewelyn. — White Kidney, good cropper, of excellent
quality.

Midlothian Early.— White, pebble-shaped, fair cropper, quality
good.

POTATOES 771

Sharpens Express. — White Kidney, excellent cropper, quality
first-rate.

Sharpe's Victor. — White Kidney, fair cropper, first-rate quality.
Excellent forcing variety.

Second Earlies

Snowdrop. — White Kidney, abundant cropper, of excellent
quality.

Gladiator. — White Kidney, very heavy cropper, of fair quality
on heavy soil.

British Queen. — White, shape variable, heavy cropper, quality
excellent on some soils.

Great Scot. — White, round, said to be a heavy cropper of
good quality.

King" George. — White Kidney, said to be a good cropper.

Main-crop and Late Sorts

Windsor Castle. — White, oval-shaped, good cropper, quality
first-rate.

King Edward. — Kidney, white, lightly coloured here and there
with pink. Abundant cropper of excellent quality.

Up-to-Date. — White, round, abundant cropper ; quality first-
rate.

Arran Chief. — White, round, heavy cropper, quality excellent
on some soils.

Long Keeper. — White, pebble-shaped \

Crofter. — White, pebble-shaped Reputedly heavy

The Lochar. — White, round croppers.

The Chapman. — White, round J

SPRAYING. — The proper proportions of the sulphate of copper
and lime solution for spraying Potatoes to check the disease (P/iy-
topthora infestans], is one pound of each. Tie the sulphate — which
is blue-stone — in a coarse piece of canvas and put into a wooden
tub holding about 10 gallons. Pour over the sulphate 2 gallons of
boiling water and let it dissolve. In a pail dissolve the lime, which
should be fresh, and when clear add the water to that in the tub.
In addition to the above, dissolve in hot water I Ib. of common
treacle, and add this. Then fill up the tub. The solution should
be applied about the middle of July, with a second application
three weeks later. It must be applied to the foliage of the Potatoes
in the form of a very fine spray through a knapsack sprayer, or by
the aid of a spraying syringe. It is best done in the evening.

SPROUTING THE SEED TUBERS.— Though good results may
be possible from tubers that have not been put into the sprouting
boxes in February or March — that is, from four to six weeks before
planting — it is generally conceded that the better plan is to store

772 ADDENDUM

the seed tubers in boxes during the winter. Leaving out the
relative effects of winter or spring boxing on the subsequent crop,
there are other valid reasons for giving preference to autumn or
winter boxing. In the first place, there is, as a rule, more spare
time for carrying out the work in the fall than in the spring, when
there are so many other things requiring attention. In the second
place, there is no way in which the seed tubers may be kept so
safely or stored in smaller compass than in the boxes utilised for
the sprouting of the tubers. The third and most important
recommendation is that the tubers can be overhauled and examined
as time permits, should that be found necessary, while the sprouting
can be regulated to a nicety by placing the boxes in a high or a
low temperature, and exposing the tubers to light and air or
shielding them from the latter as circumstances may require. The
size of box recommended for general use is, length 24 in., width
12 in., and depth 3 in. The corner-pieces should be 7 in. in height
and sufficiently strong for the boxes to rest one on top of the
other when piled for winter storage. The handle-bar should be
strong and tenoned into the end-pieces, the whole forming a light,
handy, and durable receptacle which, if carefully used, will last for
years. Such boxes are not very expensive, each box holding about
20 Ib. of Potatoes, varying with the size of the tubers. The filling
of the boxes involves no particular care or trouble, and when
completed they may be arranged one on top of the other to any
height that may be found convenient.

Apart from the effect of light and air upon the length of the
sprout, exposure for some time before planting is all-important, in
order that the sprout may become tough, and thus not so liable to
be broken when handled. A few days' exposure will be sufficient
to make the sprouts quite tough, and so less liable to injury when
planting is being done. When storing the boxed tubers care
should be taken that they are not placed where frost is likely to
reach them. On the other hand they should not be given too high
a temperature or sprouting will be too rapid, and they will become
spindly and drawn. As a rule they will do very well in barns or
sheds, provided they are protected from cold winds and covered
with straw or sacks when frost is severe and protracted.

At the time of planting the sprouts should be about 2 in. long,
and the management of the boxes should be so carried out that
this length of sprout should be developed as uniformly as possible
all over the box. There is no valid objection to longer sprouts,
except that there is a danger of some of them being broken off
unless they are very carefully handled. Generally, the sprouts are
apt to fall short of rather than exceed the desired length, in which
case, in order to check growth and prevent their becoming drawn,
the best way is to expose them to the light. If, on the other hand,

RHUBARB (DAW'S CHAMPION) 773

it is found that the sprouts are slow to extend, then all light should
be excluded.

RHUBARB (DAW'S CHAMPION)

An early Rhubarb is most useful when forced or when allowed
to come away naturally. Of the newer varieties that at the head
of this note is of great value, indeed by some it is preferred to the
well-known Hawke's Champagne, an old kind, well known for its
fine colour, earliness, and quality when obtained true. It is
largely grown by one of the Covent Garden Market men, who has
shown it frequently at the winter meetings of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, receiving both an award of merit for it for its
earliness and a first-class certificate for it for its excellent quality.
Of the several varieties of Rhubarb that have been put into
commerce of recent years it is one of the best. Even so early as
January we have seen the crowns growing freely with only a
handful or two of loose litter thrown over them. For forcing it is
unequalled, the bright red colour permeating the whole stalk.
It is a very strong grower, quite different in this respect from some
of our very early varieties of former days.

ROTATION OF CROPS

This is one of the most important points in the culture of
vegetables. So much, however, depends on the nature of the soil,
the size of the garden, and the different vegetables required that
no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down in this matter. A change
of ground is beneficial to most vegetables, though there are many
exceptions, as in the case of Onions, Shallots, and Artichokes, which
may be grown from year to year on the same piece of ground.
The treatment for Celery brings the ground into a high state of
cultivation, and most vegetables do well after Celery. Carrots,
Parsnips, and Beet should follow crops for which the soil was
specially manured, as the application of fresh manure just before
sowing is detrimental to them. All the Cabbage family should
never be allowed to succeed each other, but should generally
follow after tap-rooted vegetables. The soil for tap-rooted vege-
tables should be thoroughly well worked without the addition of
any manure.

TOMATOES

Defoliating Tomatoes. — Many amateurs run away with the
idea that Tomatoes when exposed by the removal of the leaves
ripen more quickly. This is an erroneous idea, and the sooner it
is dispelled the better — that is, by those who treat the plants in
such a barbarous fashion. One may often see the plants quite
denuded of all the leaves, only a small particle of a leaf-stem

774 ADDENDUM

or two remaining at the extremities. Plants that are growing
very strongly in a small house may be slightly denuded of some
of the gross-growing leafage without any material injury.
Especially is this the case when the leaves cover the soil and
impede the daily watering of the plants. Let any one visit some
of our large market gardens where Tomatoes are grown, and note
how little thought is paid to removal of the leaves of Tomatoes
and how freely ripe fruits are obtained from day to day.

Against hot sunny walls in the open air the foliage is of great
value in protecting the swelling fruits from the sun, and in this
way prevents scalding. Tomatoes do not require the sun to shine
directly on to them to impart early maturity and colour. The
plants themselves need all the sunlight possible, but unless the
leafage as referred to above is over-luxuriant there is no need for
repressing it. By all means remove the growths which spring
from the leaf axils, and the sooner this is attended to the better
both for the plants and the crop. In the case of outdoor plants,
when four to six trusses, according to the strength of the plant,
are set, pinch out the point at one leaf beyond the topmost one.
Very strong plants may carry from six to eight trusses of fruit
if they are early — that is, planted out early. Late-put-out plants
would not have time to bring so many to maturity before they
were overtaken by frost. If stopped — as advised — early, the fruits
swell more quickly and ripen sooner. Against walls staking and
tying the plants to the stakes are better than nailing, driving the
stakes into the ground and securing them to the wall with a nail
and shred.

TOMATOES FOR WINTER

Whatever advance may have taken place in the last few years
as regards improved varieties of Tomatoes, we have not as yet
obtained a really good sort for winter fruiting, but will have to
rely more on methods of culture in order to secure satisfactory
results. As far as a supply up to Christmas is concerned there
is no difficulty in securing this from the plants that have fruited
during the summer — that is, provided they have been grown in
light, well-heated structures. It is after this time that the supply
runs short. Many people are often compelled to do away with
plants in the early winter on account of the house being required
for another purpose, as at this time it is impossible for the plants
to be satisfactory when subjected to a low temperature, or on
the other hand a too high and moist one. It is to meet such cases
as these, where winter Tomatoes are needed, that it is very
essential to raise a fresh batch of plants and grow them on for
winter fruiting. On plants raised in August and carefully
attended to there will be time for a crop to set by the end of

TOMATOES FOR WINTER 775

October. After this time the days are generally dull and moist,
conditions not favourable to the setting of the fruit. For winter
work only medium growers and free setters should be selected.

As regards the mode of increase, seedlings are preferable to
cuttings, as though cuttings might naturally be expected to come
into bearing before seedlings, and consequently answer better for
winter fruiting, seedlings if carefully tended will fruit quite as
early, and in every other respect be satisfactory. The plants
must be stocky, as drawn and weakly plants are of no use, since
by the time these have become fit to produce fruit the season is
too late for the flowers to set

In growing winter Tomatoes pot culture is preferable to
planting out, as in pots the plants are more under control, with
the added advantage that the house is at liberty for other plants
until the time comes round for housing the Tomatoes. The best
place for winter tomatoes is those light houses or pits in which
cucumbers and melons have been grown during the summer, as
directly these are over they can be cleared out and the Tomatoes
put in their place. The plants should be in their winter quarters
by the beginning of October or the middle of the month at the
latest. In our experience one of the best winter fruiting sorts is
Winter Beauty, though the old Large Red is also good, the only
objections to this variety being its poor shape and quality.

TURNIPS (YELLOW-FLESHED)

It is very strange that the yellow-fleshed Turnips are so
favoured in the north, while they are but seldom grown in the
south. When cooked, there can be no question as to the superior
quality of the yellow-fleshed Turnips, the flesh being firmer, of
better flavour, and when served, in the opinion of many, more
attractive. One often hears it said that the flavour of the yellow-
fleshed Turnip in the south is strong, but given good culture in the
way of deep, well-manured soil, and grown on without a check, this
is not so. The cultivation has a great influence on the flavour, and
it very often happens that the white Turnips are not only hard, but
bitter, and for this reason very objectionable. In the kitchen the
yellow-fleshed Turnips are by many cooks preferred to the white-
fleshed varieties.

776 ADDENDUM

VEGETABLE DISEASES

The Bean Aphis. — This, known as The Black Dolphin, is the
worst enemy of the Broad Bean, and unless steps are taken to
destroy it, it very soon ruins the crop. The best way to get rid
of it is to remove the tops of the plants, and if aphides are present
to burn them, then syringe the plants with any insecticide sold for
destroying black and green fly. Syringing with soap-suds on two
or three consecutive days has also been found effective.

Cabbages Clubbing1. — The best remedy for this is, without
doubt, gas-lime, which should be applied to ground, whenever
empty, in which clubbing has been prevalent. This should be
applied at the rate of 2 bushels to 3 rods if the clubbing has been
bad ; if not, then allow I bushel to 2 rods of ground. After lying
on the ground for from four to six weeks, dig the dressing in. If
gas-lime is not to be had, then a dressing of ordinary lime at the
same rate will do good. Be careful not to plant any of the
Cabbage family on the infected ground for at least two years.
Potatoes, Seakale, or Rhubarb may occupy the ground, or Onions,
Parsnips, or Beet may be sown thereon — in fact, any crop other
than one of the Brassica family.

Celery Leaf Blight. — This, during the past few years, has
been prevalent, and is very often the cause of the partial or com-
plete failure of the crop. The disease may be recognised by local
crumpling of the leaf, followed by the appearance of spots on the
surface. The leaves rot away, after which the stems decay, and
finally the whole plant disappears. As the spores of the fungus
remain in the soil for some time afterwards, Celery should not be
grown in the same plot of ground for several years. Since the
disease is carried in the seed, growers of Celery are advised to
disinfect their seed. In order to do this hydrogen peroxide should
be used. When purchasing this disinfectant a solution known as
2O-volume solution should, if it can be had, be obtained, but if not,
then a lovolume solution may be used. The seed to be treated
is placed in a glass or earthenware vessel, and enough of the
hydrogen peroxide poured in to cover the seed. Stir the mass
thoroughly so that all the seeds become wet, allow the seeds to
remain in the liquid for three hours, then pour the liquid off and
reserve it for treating a second batch if need be. Before sowing,
spread the seed out thinly to get dry. Do not return the seed
that has been disinfected to the original packet, or else some of
the spores of the fungus causing the disease may be adhering to
the paper and reinfect the seeds. There is a possibility of arrest-
ing and finally subduing the attack, if, on the first signs of the

VEGETABLE DISEASES 777

fungus being noticed, the plants are sprayed with Bordeaux
mixture; but if the disease has got a firm hold, then spraying
will avail nothing. After the Celery has been dug, and if very
badly attacked burnt, give the ground a good dressing of freshly
slaked lime, or one of the several soil disinfectants now on the
market.

Celery Maggot or Leaf Miner. — This pest, which in some
seasons disfigures the leaves of Celery very badly, is very diffi-
cult to combat, as the maggot is encased inside the skin or leaf
covering, consequently impossible to get at with any insecticide.
The only remedy is hand-picking the affected leaves and burning
them. After removing the leaves that have been very badly
disfigured, give the plants a good dusting of soot. Given repeated
dressings of soot to check further attacks of the fly, a healthy
growth will follow, and if this is kept clean there will be but little
fear of a severe attack.

Mint Cluster-cup Fungus (Puccinia menthae}. — There is no
cure for this, as the fungus is in the stems, in the lower part of
which it passes the winter. When this fungus attacks a bed of
mint the best thing that one can do is to pull up the plants at once
and throw them on the fire, making a fresh plantation in another
part of the garden with plants from an untainted source. It is
advisable, too, to give the ground where the fungus-infested mint
has been growing a good dressing of lime, so as to destroy any
fungus spores that may be present in the soil.

Onion Fly (Anthomyza ceparuni). — This lays its eggs at the
base of the young plants in April and May, and the grubs when
they hatch out begin feeding on the bulbs and burrow into the
hearts of the plants, which very soon collapse. In the case of a
bad attack the plants can be pulled from out of the drills, as the
roots are then partially or wholly destroyed. When in this
condition every affected plant should at once be pulled up and
destroyed. Shallow sowing renders the plants liable to attack, as
the base of the plants being on the surface the flies are better able
to find a footing. If deeper sowing is practised, the vulnerable
part of the bulb is then buried. To act as a protection it has been
found that by drawing soil up to the plants on either side of the
lines the fly is unable to get at the base. Some growers water
the soil between the lines with paraffin and water, while others
again strew sand saturated with paraffin between the lines. We
have tried both these so-called remedies, but in neither case did
any good results follow. The best way we find when this pest has
been troublesome is to grow the onions in another part of the garden
as far away from the infected area as possible, sowing the seed as
soon as the ground is in working condition, and rather deeply so
that the outer cuticle of the bulb may be hardened and so

778 ADDENDUM

impervious to the attacks of the fly when the egg-laying time
arrives. One of the several soil disinfectants should also be dug
into the soil or sufficient lime and salt to whiten the ground spread
on the surface and forked in. Plants raised in the autumn or those
raised under glass in the early part of the year are seldom attacked ;
they are too hard and buried too deeply for the insects to get at
them. In many cases where the outdoor sowing of onions has been
a failure, growers have abandoned this mode of culture and raised
the plants under glass instead. These when large enough are
pricked into boxes, and in some cases potted off singly and grown
in frames. After having been well hardened off they are planted
out during April. It has been found that grown in this way the
losses have been reduced to a minimum. A grower of our acquaint-
ance uses nothing but soot, and he never has any trouble either
with the onion fly or the carrot fly. A good preventive against
the first inroads of the fly is to spray the young plants every few
days with an emulsion made by boiling I Ib. of soft soap in two
quarts of water, adding half a pint of paraffin, then six gallons of
water, working the whole through a syringe until it is a frothy
mixture. If after the spraying is completed a good dressing of
old weathered soot is dusted over the moistened plants the onions
should be in great measure protected from the fly.

Potatoes, Wart Disease of. — This, known as Synchytrium
endobioticum, is the worst of all diseases that affect vegetables.
The unfortunate part of it is that unless checked it will very soon
spread over a wide district. It is easily recognised by the ugly
excrescences like warts that appear in the eyes of the tubers.
When once a tuber or tubers have fallen a prey to this disease
these tubers are of no value, and should be at once burned to
prevent the spores getting into the soil. Very often the stems of
the plants are attacked, this being indicated by greenish-white
growths thereon. The warts on the tubers are at first of a dark-
brown colour and firm, but as the season advances they change
to almost black and are quite soft, finally rotting away and in
decay emitting a most unpleasant smell. This is the time the
spores are mixed with the soil, where they remain dormant, but
still capable of causing serious loss should potatoes be planted on
the infected ground. Never save any seed from the wart-infested
tubers, as this is a certain way of still further spreading the disease.
Potato growers both amateur and professional should look over
their crop, not only during the growing period, but afterwards
when the tubers are in store, and if any tubers with the least
symptoms of the disease are found they should report the same,
as wart disease is notifiable and severe penalties are attached to its
wilful concealment. All infested tubers should be burned, and
the ground from which they have been lifted dressed with gas-

VEGETABLE DISEASES 779

lime which, having lain for some time, should be well broken up
and dug in. Do not on any account plant potatoes on such
infected ground, and when purchasing seed always stipulate that
such has been grown on ground free of the disease. We have now
varieties that are immune to this disease, and such should only be
planted where the Wart disease has been present. It is therefore
all the more fortunate that experiments carried out by the Board
of Agriculture and Fisheries have demonstrated beyond all doubt,
for the time being at any rate, the absolute immunity to Wart
disease of certain varieties of Potatoes, many of which both crop
and cook well. Some of the best immune varieties are : —

Early Varieties

Snowdrop. — A very shallow-eyed, white-skinned, pure white-
fleshed Kidney potato of good quality.

Dargill Early. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, pale, yellow-
fleshed, good cropping Kidney variety.

Edzell Blue. — A rather deep-eyed, purple-skinned, pure white-
fleshed, heavily cropping, round potato of good quality.

Second Early Varieties

King George. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed,
irregular-shaped variety of fair quality. This is one that if
sprouted and planted early can be lifted almost as early as
Epicure, but is liable to boil black later in the season.

Great Scot. — A rather deep-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed,
very heavily cropping round variety of good quality.

Ally. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed, heavily
cropping, oval to oblong variety of fairly good quality.

Arran Comrade. — A very shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-
fleshed, heavily cropping, flattened round variety of fairly good
quality.

Late or Main-crop Varieties

Abundance. — Including the large number of differently named
varieties of identical type. A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-
fleshed, fairly good cropping, flat round to oval potato of good
quality, but rather liable to late blight.

Tinwald Perfection.— A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, lemon-
white-fleshed, good cropping, oval to oblong potato of excellent
quality.

Kerr's Pink.— A rather deep-eyed, light-pink-skinned, white-
fleshed, heavily cropping, round potato of excellent quality.
Particularly good on heavy soils.

Majestic. — A shallow-eyed, white-skinned, white-fleshed, good
cropping Kidney variety of good quality. The seed requires
careful handling, and should be sprouted before planting.

Golden Wonder. — A shallow-eyed, russety-brown-skinned,

78o ADDENDUM

white-fleshed, light cropping, tapering, Kidney variety of the
very best quality. Will crop well if the seed is sprouted and
planted in well-cultivated loam and given a long season of growth.
Probably the best-keeping potato known, and if kept till after
Christmas probably the best eating.

Any of the above may safely be grown in infected soil with
good prospects of success, and growers should endeavour to
become familiar with the fitness of these sorts to local conditions,
even if they are not yet troubled with this serious disease of the
Potato. It is just possible that the raising of seedlings may in
time check this terrible pest.

Potatoes, Black Leg of. — From reports received by the Board
of Agriculture it appears that this disease is spreading in this
country, black leg being common in crops of King George, Great
Scot, Majestic, and Ally. It is possible that these newer varieties
are more susceptible to this disease than those previously grown,
so that the parasite has increased at a more rapid rate. In the
year 1917 the disease was noticed in Scotland to be fairly common
among the crops of Potatoes, and it is possible that the more
extensive use of Scotch seed during the past few years has dis-
tributed the disease over a wider area. This disease is very
destructive and causes serious loss in the Potato crops. The leaves
wilt and turn yellow, then shrivel and die, the disease starting low
down on the stem, the uppermost leaves being the last to succumb.
When the leaves first begin to drop, the surface of the under-
ground part of the stem bearing such leaves is more or less
covered with brownish stains. This discoloration gradually
extends up the stem, which in the end becomes quite black and
very soon decays. Black patches also appear in the young tubers,
which if the attack is severe soon rot. As soon as any of the
potato plants show symptoms of this disease they ought at once
to be dug up and thrown on the fire heap.

Tomatoes, Black Spot in. — This, known as Cladosporium
fulvum, is a fungus which germinates soonest in moisture. In
the morning, any moisture that may be accumulated through
vapour rising from the soil during the night, becomes condensed
on the fruits, and invariably finds its way to the lowest part of
the fruit. Of itself, the moisture would do no harm were there
no spores of the fungus in the house. The spores, however,
settling on the fruit get washed down by the moisture to the
apex of the fruit, and at once become active, penetrating through
the tiny orifice left by the decaying bloom. Then it begins to
spread, and preys upon the flesh, causing it to become black.
Once the spot is seen on the fruits, a cure, so far as the affected
fruits are concerned, is out of the question. All such affected
fruits should at once be removed, and thrown on the fire. The

VEGETABLE DISEASES 781

best cure for this trouble is to dissolve 10 oz. of sulphate of
potassium — liver of sulphur — in two quarts of boiling water, adding
two gallons of water, and thoroughly wetting the plants with this.

Tomatoes, Black Stripe of. — This is a fungoid disease, the
origin of which, up to the present, is unknown. It is a parasitic
fungus and attacks both the stems and fruit, but can only gain
a footing when wounds are present in either or both ; and once
an attack has been experienced, it is very difficult to prevent its
reappearance the following season. To prevent a second attack,
all the soil in which the plants have been grown should be cleared
out and burned. The house, too, in which the plants have been
growing should be disinfected and scrupulously cleaned, while
the soil that is to be used the following season should be sterilised
by placing it over a fire on a sheet of iron and allowing it to become
heated, almost to the point of being charred. To guard against
a further attack of the fungus after the plants have become
established, spray them with sulphide of potassium every other
week or so right through the season, using I oz. of sulphide to
3 gallons of warm water, in which 2 oz. of soft soap have been
dissolved. Of course, a greater quantity of the spraying mixture
may be required, but the same proportions should always be
followed. Avoid giving stimulants to such an extent as to cause
the fruits to crack, and do not remove any more of the leaves than
is absolutely necessary.

Tomatoes, Scalding of. — This is caused when, in the morning,
the moisture condenses on the fruits because the house has been
shut up too close, and the sun strikes them before they are dry,
as very often happens in the case of grapes. Scalding, too, may
to a great extent be caused by cutting away the foliage, which
is all too common. Rich food is often given in excess, and without
foliage to absorb such food it is taken up by the fruits, causing
bad flavour, spot, and scalding. We do not denude other plants
of their leaves in the same way as we see the Tomato treated,
and when this is done it is impossible to prevent the scalding of
the fruits when this severe cutting is carried to excess. The
smooth-skinned varieties of the Perfection type scald much sooner
than the corrugated kinds, the skins being probably more
sensitive.

Tomatoes, the "Sleeping Disease." — The resting spores
of this, known scientifically as Fusarium lycopersici, attack the
delicate root hairs and rootlets of the plants, finally invading the
whole of the roots and spreading up the stem. To make sure
that the disease has been destroyed, it is well to burn all the plants
that are tainted with it, at the same time removing all the soil,
mixing lime with it, and replacing with fresh before replanting.
Fresh plants should also be purchased from an untainted source.

782 ADDENDUM

The Turnip Fly. — A very great difficulty presented to every
gardener in connection with the raising of Turnips is combating
the fly when the seedlings are very small. No matter where sown,
the fly in dry weather attacks the plants, being as destructive in one
garden as in another, unless very drastic steps are taken to check
it Some people advise dusting the plants with soot or very dry
soil, but such dressings seem to do but little good. Possibly,
syringing the seedlings with Quassia extract may check its inroads
for a time, but such spraying, to do any good, must be repeated
every two or three days. Coating the leafage with soot and dirt
may, for a time, check the fly, but such dressings, seeing they
choke the pores of the leaves, must, in the end, be harmful to the
plants.

One of the best aids to vigorous growth, and consequent freedom
from the attacks of the fly, is found in rich soil, the drills, when
drawn, being saturated with weak liquid manure, sowing the seed
at once and immediately covering it with fine, dry soil, which, in
addition to checking evaporation, helps the germination of the
seeds. A cool and slightly shaded position is best for summer
sowing, but the later sowings, at the end of August or early in
September, should be made quite in the open. Some persons
sprinkle the grass from the mowing machine over the newly sown
breadths of Turnips, these furnishing some slight degree of pro-
tection. Whether the taste of the decaying grass is offensive to
the fly, or the grass helps to cover the Turnips from view, is not
certain. It is, however, a simple and easily applied mode of pro-
tection, which almost any one sowing Turnip seed in gardens can
adopt. Carrying a long, freshly tarred board by two men over a
breadth of Turnips, the board kept a few inches above the plants
and in a slanting position, was found instrumental in capturing
great numbers of the beetles.

INDEX

Agaricus campestris, 438
Allium cepa, 454

fistulosum, 475
lusitanicum, 476
Porrum, 350
sativum, 310
Schoenoprasum, 249
Scorodoprasum, 312
Anethum Foeniculum, 308
„ graveolens, 289
Angelica, i

„ Archangelica, i
Anise, 2

Anthomyza ceparum, 777
Anthriscus Cerefolium, 240
Apium graveolens, 227

„ Petroselinum, 478
Arachis hypogaea, 549
Artemisia Absinthium, 754
„ Dracunculus, 705
„ vulgaris, 438
Artichoke, black English, 9

„ Brittany, flat-headed, 7

„ Chinese or Japanese, 671

„ Florence, 9

„ French, 3

„ Globe early purple, 8

gray, 8

„ Jerusalem, 10

„ „ Imperial Yellow, 10

„ „ name, fallacy of, 758

„ „ Potato, ii

„ ,, the white, 758

„ oblong St Laud, 9

„ of Brittany, copper-coloured, 8
„ ,, Carmarque, violet Quaran-

tain, 9

„ ,, Genoa, sweet, 9

„ Paris, 6

» » large, 6

Perpetual, 8

„ Provence, green, 7
»> >» purple, 9

„ Roscoff, 9

,, Venice, purple, 9

Asparagus, 13

„ Argenteuil early giant, 19

„ ,, late giant, 20

„ blanching, 16

„ common green, 19

,, essential points in the pro-

duction of good, 15
„ giant Dutch, 19

Asparagus, giant Dutch, purple, 19
„ officinalis, n

„ _ planting, 1 6
„ ~ white German, 19

Asperula odorata, 754

Atriplex hortensis, 477

Balm, 20

Barbarea praecox, 262

Basella alba, 451

„ cordifolia, 451
Basil, 21

„ bush or dwarf, 22
„ curled-leaved, 22
„ East Indian or tree, 23
„ green bush, 22
„ „ „ compact, 23
„ large green sweet, 22
„ ,, purple sweet, 22
„ lettuce-leaved, 22
„ purple bush, 23
,, „ ., compact, 23

Bean, Aguadulce long-podded, 28
„ ., extra long-podded, 29

„ aphis, 776
,, asparagus, 80, 98

Cuban, 100
giant extra early, 99
long Tonkin, 99
stringless Lablab, 101
very early long-pod, 98, 99
Bagnolet, dwarf white, 65
green-seeded, 54
nettled-leaved, 59
Beck's dwarf Green Gem, 31
Best of All, 67

Bouscat early long-pod forcing, 53
broad, common or, 24
„ pod skinless, 72
„ Windsor, 30
Bulgarian, 80

butter, black Algerian, tall, 70
„ ,, wax or the, 84
„ Cambrai tall wax or, 69
„ Detroit wax, 90
„ dwarf Algerian black-seeded,

84

„ „ Digoin, 83, 84

„ „ extra early golden, 83

„ „ extra early wax, 86

,, „ flesh-coloured Pre-

dome, 89

„ „ golden, 83

„ „ Mont d'Or, 69

783

INDEX

Bean, butter, dwarf white, 82
„ „ ,, „ wax or, 82

„ „ Geneva or Plainpalais white

or wax, 72
„ „ ivory, 79
„ „ ,, tall, 79

„ „ long-podded dwarf Algerian,

84,85

„ Mont d'Or, 83

„ „ ,, „ dwarf wax or, 69

New Golden, 90
Prolific German, 84
rose-coloured Predome, 80
Saint Joseph, 80
tall white Algerian wax or, 68

„ wax or, 79
Valentine, 90

variegated white-podded, 89
very early dwarf, 82

„ „ wax or, 82
War dwell' s, 90
white Crystal, 90

„ the, 72
Case-knife, White Dutch Scimitar or,

46

climbing French varieties, 758, 759
Cluster or Fan, dwarf, 31, 32
Coco Prolific, two-coloured, 77
common or broad, 24
common white flat, 64

„ „ round, 65

Cornhill, red-speckled, Cut-short or,

5o
Cut-short, or Cornhill, red-speckled,

5o
dwarf Barbes, 58

Black Hermitage, 57
„ blue-black seeded, 55, 56
,, early white, 59, 6p
,, Emperor of Russia, 61
,, extra early Black Prince, 56
,, Fan or Cluster, 31, 32
„ Flageolet Chevrier, 53
,, ,, Triumph of Frames,

53

„ Green Gem, Beck's, 31
,, „ seeded Soissons, 64

,, ,, Vaudreuil, 66

,, Inexhaustible, 51
,, long-podded Lyonnais, 86
,, long scarlet 54

Marvel of Paris, 60
Matchless, 51
Parisian, 59, 60
purple-podded, 87
Prolific, 88
Rachel, 90

Sutton's Prolific Negro, 67
two-coloured China, 89
white Bagnolet, 65
, ,, seeded Lyonnais, 86

early light dun, 66

„ ,, ,, and early dark dun, 6 6
Egyptian, Kidney, Lablab, or, 101
Emperor William, 67
Flageolet, Chevrier dwarf, 53
„ dwarf long scarlet, 54

,, Fame of vitry, 54

Bean, Flageolet, Four to Four, 72, 73
,, ,, long green-seeded, 52

„ scarlet, 47, 54
„ „ „ yellow or pale dun,

54
„ „ Triumph of the Frames,

53

,, „ wax scarlet, 55

,, ,, Wonder of France, 53

„ French, Cherry, Japanese, 79
,, ,, climbing, 758
„ „ dwarf purple-podded skin-

less* 87

„ Earliest of All, 759
„ FiUbasket, 759

LaVald'Isere, 81
,, „ New Zealand, or Prague, 75

,, Tender and True, 759
,, Glory of Lyons, 60
„ green Windsor, 30
„ haricot, bush, kidney, Solitary, or,

66

„ „ du Bon Jardinier, 86, 87
„ improved early red Valentine, 90
„ Inexhaustible, 51
,, „ dwarf, 51

„ Kentucky Wonder, Seek no Further,

Old Homestead, 49

,, Kidney, Asparagus or Yard-long, 80
„ „ black-speckled, 59

,, ,, Bonnemain dwarf, 52

., ,, broad-pod skinless, 71

,, „ bush haricot, 66

,, ,, Chatres red, 47

„ ,, climbing yellow, 80

„ ,, ,, „ or Dunes

yellow, 80
,, ,, dwarf Aix, 89

Belgian, 57
blood-speckled, 61
chocolate, 57
edible-podded, 82
Emile, 87

light dun-coloured, 62
,, long-pod, 50
Mexican, 65
Predome, 87
Princess, 89
red Orleans, 63
red-speckled, 61
rice-white, 65
Royal White, 56
Russian, 62
Sion House, 60
Soissons, 63
white long-pod, 49
,, Malmaison, 89
„ Quarantain, 85
,, Unique, 85
„ yellow, extra
early, 58

,, ,, „ Hundred-
fold, 57

,, yellow Canadian, 88
early dwarf Chalandray, 57
., „ extra Etampes,

5o
,, „ Scimitar, 64

INDEX

785

Dean, Kidney, early dwarf white edible-
podded, 85

„ ,, tall Englefontaine, 49

„ „ edible-podded giant white,

70, 71

„ „ Harlequin, 49

,, „ Imperial, 80

„ „ Lablab or Egyptian, 100, 101

„ Lafayette, 80

,, ,, large white Liancourt, 47

„ „ Neapolitan, 65

„ „ Negro long-pod or black

Canterbury, 56

„ „ nettle-leaved Canterbury, 51

„ „ New Bountiful, 67

,, „ Old Homestead, 49

„ ,, or French, 32

,, „ oval yellow China or Robin's

Egg, 88, 89
„ „ Partridge Egg, 49

,, pink-marbled dwarf Prague,

88

„ ,, Predome dwarf, 87

„ „ Princess dwarf, 89

,, ,, Quarantain dwarf white, 85

,, „ red Prague, 76

„ ., runner Gray Zebra, 81

„ New Zealand, 76
,, ,, ,, Princes5:, 76

,, purple, 78

,, „ „ round white rice, 48

,, „ Saint-Seurin, 50

Soissons red, 49
Solitary or bush haricot, 66
Sophie, 76
Spread Eagle, 62
two-coloured Italian, 77
Unique dwarf white, 85
Val d'Isere, 81
Villetaneuse, 81
white Canterbury, 50
„ Coco, 76
„ Prague, 76
,, Prldome, 77
yellow Canadian dwarf, 88
Lablab, Egyptian, or Kidney, 100,

101

large common field, 27
Lima, Burpee's Quarter-Century

dwarf, 97
Willow-leaf, 96
Willow-leaf bush

dwarf, 97
„ Challenge, Dreer's Improved,

or Potato, 96
., common, the, 95
,, dwarf, 96
., ,, large white, Burpee's

bush Lima, 97

„ „ Sieva, Henderson's

bush Lima, Wood's New
Prolific Lima, 97
,, extra early Jersey, 96
,, King of the Garden, 96
,, large, the, 95
„ mottled or marbled Cape, 96
„ Siebert's early, 96
„ small or Sieva, 96

Bean, Lima, yellow or pale dun Flageolet,

54

„ Lyonnais long-podded dwarf, 86
„ „ white-seeded dwarf, 86

,, MacMillan's American Prolific, 66
,, Matchless dwarf, 51
,, Mazagan early, 32
„ Mohawk early, 67
„ Nankeen-yellow Geneva, 80
„ Ne Plus Ultra, 67
,, New Mammoth Negro, 67
,, Newington Wonder, 67
,, Old Homestead, Kentucky Wonder,

Seek no Further, 49
,, Osborne's early forcing, 67
,, Perfection, 29
„ Plein de la Fleche, 66
,, pole, extra early, 48
,, „ long scarlet Flageolet, 47
„ „ Soissons large, 45
,, ,, white Sallandre improved, 47
,, Rachel, dwarf, 66, 90
,, red-speckled, Cut-short, or Cornhill,

50

,, Refugee or Thousand to One, 67
i> »> » » >, „ extra

early, 68

„ runner, black-seeded, 93
,, „ edible-podded black Scimi-

tar, 75

„ „ Painted Lady, Bicolor, or

York and Lancaster, 93
„ ,, scarlet, hybrid, 94

the, 93

„ „ Soissons large, 45

,, ,, white, the, 94

„ Scimitar, edible-podded black run-
ner, 75

„ „ White Dutch or Case-knife, 46

„ Seek no Further, Old Homestead,

Kentucky Wonder, 49
,, Seville long-pod, 28
„ Shah, the, 62, 63
,, Sieva, small Lima or, 96
,, Sir Joseph Paxton, 68
„ Skinless broad-pod, 72
„ „ from the Valley, 74

„ „ golden-yellow tall, 74

„ „ Saint-Fiacre, 73

„ „ ,, „ white-seeded,

„ white tall King of the, 68
„ Small July, 30, 31
„ Soissons dwarf green-seeded, 64
„ Southern Prolific, 49
,, Soy, 661

common yellow, 66 1
Etampes yellow, 662
Podolian, 662
stringless green-pod, 67
very early brown-seeded, 662
Sutton's Prolific Negro, dwarf, 67
the Monster, 66

Thousand to One, Refugee, or, 67
» •> »> „ ,, extra

early, 68

two-coloured Coco Prolific, 77
Vaudreuil, dwarf green, 66

50

786

Bean,

INDEX

Ward's Centenary, 90
Wax or Butter, black, the, 84
, „ „ Currie'sRust-proof,

67

» •» » Davis, 67
„ „ „ Detroit, 90
„ ,, „ dwarf Algerian

black-seeded, 84

„ „ „ dwarf Digoinfo, 84
„ „ »> » extra early,

86
„ „ » » extra Golden,

83

„ „ „ „ Montd'0r,6g

„ „ „ » very early, 82

,, ,, „ Flageolet scarlet, 55
., ,, „ Geneva or Plain-

palais white, 72
,. » » golden, 90
„ „ „ ivory, 79
„ „ » » tall, 79

,, „ long-podded dwarf

Algerian, 84, 85
„ ,, „ „ New Golden, 90

„ „ „ Predome flesh-

coloured, 89
,, ,, » » Predome rose-

coloured, 80

,, ,, „ „ Prolific German, 84
„ tall black Algerian,

84, 85

„ „ „ „ Cambrai, 69

„ „ » „ » white, 79

„ » » » ,, Algerian,

68

„ „ „ „ Valentine, 90
„ „ „ „ variegated white-

podded, 89

„ „ „ „ very early dwarf, 82
„ „ „ „ Wardwell's, 90
,, „ „ ,, white, 72, 90
„ „ „ „ „ Crystal, 90

„ White Dutch, Scimitar, or Case-

knife, 46

„ „ tall King of the Skinless, 68
„ Williams' new early, 68
,, Windsor, broad, 30
„ yellow Canterbury, 68
Beans, French, 44

Kidney, culture in pits and frames,

38
„ „ early crops in market-

gardens, 41

„ „ first main sowing, 43

„ „ „ outdoor crop, 41

forcing, 39

,, „ gathering, 43

„ „ mulching and watering, 37

out of door sowing, 42
soil, 37
sowing, and culture out of

doors, 35
to force, 40
tough-podded, 45
runner, 90

„ market-garden cul-
ture, 93

•let

Beans, scarlet runner, sowing in open

ground, 92

„ „ „ sticking, 92

„ white tall King of the Skinless, 68
Beet, Bassano, early flat, in, 112
,, Black Queen, 108, 109
„ Black, Whyte's, 106, 107
,, blood-red deep Castlenaudary, 106
,, ,, ,, Dewing's early, 109
,, „ „ large, 104, 105
„ ,, „ long smooth or long smooth

Rochester, 105

„ Castlenaudary, deep blood-red,. 106
,, Cheltenham green-top, 112, 759
„ Chilian, 350
„ ,, or red-stalked Swiss Chard,

35o

,, Covent Garden red, 109
„ Dell's dark crimson dwarf, 107, 108
Dewing's early blood-red, 107
Draccsna-leaved, 107, 108
dwarf Dell's dark crimson, 107, 108

,, red, Nutting's, 107
Egyptian, Crosby's, 112

„ dark red turnip -rooted, 112
Galloway Purple, 759
Gardanne, 105
garden, 104

Globe, the crimson, no
green-top, the Cheltenham, 112
Henderson's Pine-Apple, Short's
Pine-Apple, or Pine-Apple dwarf,
112

intermediate dark, Strasbourg Pear-
shaped, Non Plus Ultra, 109
Leaf, or Swiss Chard Beet, 347
Lentz, 112

long yellow or orange, 113
non-bleeding, 759

Non Plus Ultra, Strasbourg Pear-
shaped, intermediate dark, 109
Nutting's dwarf red, 107
orange, long yellow, 113
red Covent Garden, 108, 109
,, flesh varieties of, 104
,, rough-skin, 106
Rochester long smooth or blood -red

long smooth, 105
root, 102

,, rough-skinned red, 105
,, sowing and storing, 103
salad, Trevise early or Turin red

spring, 109

Sea-kale or Swiss Chard, 347, 348
„ silvery, or silvery Swiss

Chard, 349

Short's Pine -Apple, Pine- Apple dwarf
red, or Henderson's Pine- Apple, 112
silvery Sea-kale or silvery Swiss

Chard, 349

Strasbourg Pear-shaped, no
Strasbourg Pear-shaped, Non Plus

Ultra, or intermediate dark, 109
Trevise early or Turin red spring

salad, 109
„ red flat, no

Turin red spring salad, Trevise early
or, 109

INDEX

787

Beet, Turnip, Detroit dark red, in
Dewing' s blood-red, no
early blood -red, no
Eclipse, no, in
Egyptian dark red, 112
yellow or orange, 113
Victoria, 112
Whyte's black, 107
Benincasa cerifera, 341
Beta vulgaris, 102, 347
Borage, 113, 114
Borago officinalis, 113
Borecole, cabbage-curled winter, 151, 152
„ „ English Thousand-headed

or branching, 162
„ curled, dwarf purple, 160
„ ,, laciniated, 161

„ Flanders purple or Flanders Kale,

162

„ or Kale, 158
„ or Palm-tree Cabbage, 161
,, proliferous, 161
„ tall purple, 160
„ variegated or garnishing Kale, 160
Brassica caulo-rapa, 164
,, eruca, 637
napus, 730
nigra, 446
„ oleracea, 117
„ „ acephala, 158

„ „ Botrytis, 204, 217

„ „ bullata, 144

„ „ capitata, 123

sinensis, 170

,, „ L. var., 171

Broccoli, 114

,, Adams' early white, 223

,, Backhouse's white winter, 225

„ CatteU's Eclipse, 226

„ Cauliflower, Grange's early or

Bath white, 226
„ Champion, 226
„ Chappel's Cream, 226
,, Cooling's Matchless, 226
„ Criterion, 226
,, culture for market, 221
„ early Penzance, 225
„ Easter, 223
,, French, large white, 222
„ green Cape, 225
„ growing for exhibition, 220
,, heeling in, 219
„ improved white sprouting, 225
„ Knight's Protecting, 226
,, late dwarf purple or Cockscomb,

225

„ ,, green or late Danish, 225

„ Leamington, 226
„ Ledham's Latest of All, 226
„ Mammoth, large white, 223, 224
,, Osborn's white winter, 225
,, Protecting, 220
,, purple, 224
„ „ Cape, 216, 224

„ sprouting, 225
,, ,, ,, or Asparagus,

224
„ Roscoff white, 223

Broccoli, Saint-Laud, 222

„ Snow's Superb white winter, 226
„ soil and manure, 219
„ sowing and planting, 219
„ Sulphur, 226
„ Veitch's Protecting, 226
„ Walcheren or Walcheren Cauli-
flower, 214

„ white extra early, 222
,, » „ large, 224

,, Wilcove's, 226
Brussels Sprouts, 114, 152

culture, 154
dwarf, 156
„ half, 156
„ Paris market, 155
gathering, 154
soil, 154
Buckshorn Plantain, Hartshorn or Star

of the Earth, 115
Bunias orientalis, 638
Burdock or Gobo, edible, 115, 116
Burnet, garden, 117
„ salad, 116

Cabbage, 117

„ All-head, Faultless early or

Eclipse, 142

„ All-seasons or Vandergaw, 142
„ Alsace autumn, 140
„ Amager extra large, 137
„ Atkins' Matchless, 141
„ Autumn King or World Beater,

143

„ Bacalan, early, 128
„ „ large, 129

„ Barnes' early dwarf, or Prince's

Nonpareil, 126

„ Borecole, curled winter, 151, 152
„ Braganza or Portugal, Sea-kale,

151

„ Brunswick, short-stemmed, 132
„ Chinese, 170
„ „ heading, 171

,, „ ,, improved, 171

„ clubbing, 776
,, common, the. 123
„ Cornish Paignton, or early

Cornish, 141

,, curled Couve Tronchuda, 151
„ cutting, 120, 760
„ dark red early, point-headed, 138
„ Death's-head, 140
,, Deep-head, 142
„ Drumhead Bridgeport, 143
„ „ Christmas, 763

Dax, 133, 134

„ „ early Dutch, 132

„ „ „ » or early

dwarf flat Dutch,
132

„ „ large red, or large

red Dutch pickling,
137, 138
late flat Dutch, 134

788

INDEX

Cabbage, Drumhead, Louisville, 143

„ „ marbled Burgundy,

139

}) ,, Mason's or Hundred-

weight, Quintal,

134

„ Premium late, or
large late Drum-
head, 143

„ „ Savoy, large hardy

winter, 149
,, ,, large Vertus,

148, 149
„ „ Schweinfurt Quintal,

132

„ „ smooth -leaved, 130

St. Denis, 130, 131
„ „ St. John's Day, dwarf,

129

„ Dutch Acme, late flat, 143
„ ,, „ Premium late flat,

,, „ select, 143

,, Excelsior late flat, 142
,, large red, or large red
Drumhead pickling,i 27,
138

early April, 762
Bacalan, 128
dark red Erfurt, 137
Ellam's, 762
Enfield Market, 761
Etampes, 125
extra, Express, 125
Habas, 133
Offenham, 763
Paris Market, 126
Rainham, 763
Tourlavillc, 127
York, 123
English Thousand-headed or

branching Borecole, 162
Erfurt, early dark red, 137

„ „ small, 129, 130
Etampes, early, 125
Excelsior, late flat Dutch, 142
Express, extra early, 125
Filder, or Pomeranian, 135
Flower of Spring, 763
Fumel, 133

Gratrcheff, giant flat, 141
green glazed American, 136
Habas early, 133
Harbinger, 762
hardy green colewort, 763
„ winter colewort, 760
improved Nonpareil, 763

,, or French Thousand-

headed, 162, 163
Jersey Wakefield, 125
Kaper-Kohl, 141
large La Trappe or Mortagne,

140

late St. John's Day, 131
Lingreville, 128

Little Pixie or Tom Thumb, 141
London Rosette colewort, 760, 763
Lubeck, 141

Cabbage, Luxembourg or Hard-heading,

143

„ Main-crop, 763
„ Marble-head Mammoth, 143
„ Mortagne, La Trappe or, 140
,, Murcian, 142
,, Oxheart early, 124
„ „ large, 127

„ Palm-tree, or Borecole, 161
„ Paris Market, early, 126
,, Parisian early flat spring, 129

flat, 129

„ Pe-Tsai, 171
,, pickling, large red Dutch or large

red Drumhead, 137, 138
,, Pisa round, 141
,, Polish red short-stem, 138
,, Pomeranian, Filder or, 135
„ Portugal, Braganza or Seakale,

151

„ Prince's Nonpareil, 126
„ » » or Barnes's

early dwarf, 126
,, Quintal Auvergne, 135
,, Red, when to sow, 762
,, red Utrecht, 137
„ Sarthe cow or large-leaved

Jersey Kale, 162
,, Savoy, A ire, 146
„ „ ,, extra fine curled,

147
„ „ Cape or large late green,

147
„ „ dwarf early green curled,

145

„ „ „ Robert, 145, 146

„ ,, early flat green curled, 146

,, ,, large Aubervilliers, 148

„ ,, Limay, 149

,, ,, long-headed, 148

,, ,, Norwegian, 150

,, ,, Paris, very early, 145

„ ,, small Belleville, 150

,, ,, St. John's, 144

,, ,, Tours, 146

,, „ Ulm or early green curled,

144

„ „ Victoria, 147

,, „ yellow curled or golden,

147
„ Seakale, Braganza or Portugal,

151

„ sowing and planting, 119, 759
„ spring early flat Parisian, 129
„ St. John's Day, late, 131
,, Stonemason or Warren's Stone-
mason, 143
„ Succession, 142
,, Sugar Loaf, 124
„ summer, early Henderson's,

130, 142

„ Surehead, 143
„ Tom Thumb, Little Pixie or, 141
,, Tourlaville, early, 127
,, Tree or Jersey Kale, 161
„ turnip-rooted, Swedish turnip,

166
„ variegated heading, 139

INDEX

789

Cabbage, Vaugirard, 136, 137
„ Wheeler's Imperial, 763
„ Winnigstadt, early, 135, 763
„ winter curled-head, 136
„ York, early dwarf, 123

„ large, 123
Cabbages, Savoy, 144
Calendula officinalis, 402
Campanula Rapunculus, 631
Caper Bush, 172

Capsicum annuum, 173 ,

„ Celestial, 183
,, common, 175
„ early dwarf red Spanish, 183
„ Elephant's Trunk, 182
„ Golden Dawn, 180
„ „ Upright, 184

„ insects, etc., 174
„ Kaleidoscope, 183
„ large Bell pepper, 179
„ long red or Guinea pepper, 175
„ „ yellow, 176

„ Mammoth Golden Queen, 181
,, Monstrous, 181
„ Procopp's Giant, 183

red pepper, 173
„ „ Tomato or American

Bonnet pepper, 182
„ Ruby King, 180
„ Spanish Monarch, 182
„ spinosa, 172
„ violet-coloured or black, 283
Caraway, 184
Cardamine pratensis, 263
Cardoon, 185

„ artichoke-leaved, 188, 189
„ ivory-white, 187, 188
,, long Spanish, 188
„ prickly Tours, 187
,, smooth solid, 188, 189
,, tying and earthing up, 186
Carrot, 189

,, Altringham, 200

,, Bardowick, 204

„ coreless long red, 199

,, Dutch Horn, 193

„ Dutch Horn, early scarlet, 193

„ early Carentan, 196

„ „ Nantes, 195

„ English Horn or early half long

scarlet, 194

„ Flanders or Sandwich, 201
„ French Horn or earliest short-
horn, 193
„ half-long blunt scarlet, 195

Chantenay, 197

„ „ Danvers orange, 197, 198

„ „ Luc, 197

„ „ scarlet early Nantes, 196

„ James' intermediate, 195
,, long blood-red, 201
lemon, 202

,, short, 203
orange, 204

Surrey or long red, 199
yellow stump-rooted, 203
orange Belgian or long orange
green-top, 202

Carrot, Oxheart blunt-rooted Guerande,

194

„ Parisian forcing, 193
„ red long smooth Meaux, 199, 200
„ Valery, 198
„ yellow Intermediate or long yellow

stump-rooted, 203
Carrots, autumn sowing, 191
„ diseases and insects, 191
,, early and main crops, 191
„ forcing, 190
„ storing, 191
„ wild, improving, 203
Carum Carvi, 184
Cat Mint, 438
Cauliflower, 204

„ Algiers, large, 213

„ Alleaumejs dwarf, 211

„ culture in market gardens,

208
„ Dutch early or early London,

214

,, Erfurt early dwarf, 210

„ French, large white, 213

„ Grange's early or Bath white,

226

„ Imperial, 211

„ Incomparable, 215

„ Italian Giant, self-protecting,

215

„ late Asiatic, 214

„ Lenormand's short-stalked, 212

,, Paris forcing earliest, 211

„ ,, large, 213

„ „ or Nonpareil, half-early

or, 212
„ planting under handlights,

207

., Russian, the, 216

„ Snowball, early, 210

„ Stadtholder, 214

„ Veitch's Autumn Giant, 215

„ Walcheren or Walcheren

broccoli, 214

„ watering and mulching, 208

Celeriac, apple-shaped, 240
Erfurt early, 239
large early August or variegated-
leaved, 239

„ smooth Prague, 240
Prague, 240
smooth Paris, 239
Turnip-rooted Celery or, 238
Celery, blanching, 228

Boston Market, 237

common, 231

Crawford's half-dwarf, 237

endive, 235

Evans' Triumph, 237

fern-leaved, 235

for very early, 227

golden heart or golden dwarf, 237

Hartshorn, the, 235

keeping, 230

Leaf blight, 776

Leaf miner, 777

maggot, 777

Mammoth, white, 236

INDEX

Celery, market-garden culture, 229
„ New Rose, 237
„ Paris, golden, 233
„ ,, rose-ribbed, 233

„ Pascal, 233
„ ,, white solid, 234
„ Perfection Heartwell, 237
„ Pink Plume, 238
„ red large-ribbed, 236
„ solid Arez/o, white, 233
curled white, 234, 235
dwarf white, 234

„ ,, large-ribbed, 234

golden-yellow, large, 232
red giant, 236

„ „ London Marketred or
Ivery's Nonsuch,
236

white, 232
„ dwarf Sandringham or

Incomparable, 235
„ soup, 238
„ trenches for, 228
„ turnip-rooted, 239
„ „ or Celeriac, 238, 239

„ White Plume, 234, 235
„ Winter Queen, 238
Chaerophyllum bulbosum, 242
Chenopodium Bonus Henricus, 313
Chervil, 240

„ common or plain, 241
„ curled, 241
,, turnip -rooted, 242
Chestnut, water, 753, 754
„ fruit, 754
Chick Pea, 243

,, ,, white, 244
Chickling Vetch, 243
Chicory and Succory, 245
„ broad-leaved, 248
„ Brunswick, 246
,, curled-leaved, 249
„ improved variegated, 248
„ large Brussels or Witloof, 247
„ „ rooted, 246
„ Magdeburgh, 247
„ or Succory, 244
„ red Italian, 246
,, ,, leaved Lombardy, 246
Chillies or Chili Pepper, 177
Chives, 249

Chufa or Rush Nut, 640
Cicer arietinum, 243
Cichorium Endivia, 295
,, Intybus. 244
Citrullus vulgaris, 432
Cladosporium fulvum, 780
Clary, 250

Claytonia perfoliata, 605
Cochlearia Armoracia, 342

,, officinalis, 646
Colewort, Green Rosette, 156
,, hardy green, 763

,, London Rosette, 763

Collard's Georgia, 160
Convolvulus Batatas, 601
Corchorus olitorius, 402
Coriander, 250, 251

Coriandrum sativum, 250
Corn Salad, 251

cabbaging, 254

common or Lamb's Lettuce,

251

Etampes, 254
golden, 253
Italian, 255

„ lettuce-leaved, 255
large-seeded, 253
round-leaved, 253
spoon-leaved, 256
Crambe maritima, 647
Cress, American or Belle Isle, 262
Brazil, 263, 264
broad-leaved, 258
common, 258
curled, 258

garden broad-leaved, 258
„ common, 257
„ curled or Normandy, 258
,, extra curled dwarf, 258
„ golden or Australian, 259
meadow, 263
or garden, 256
Para, 263
water, 259

,, improved broad-leaved, 261, 262
Crithmum maritimum, 643
Crocus sativus, 640
Crops, Rotation of, 773
Cucumber, 264

,, Blue Gown, 280

,, Bonneuil, large white, 276

,, brown-netted or Khiva, 274

„ Cardiff Castle, 280

Chinese green long, 281, 282
Duke of Bedford, 280
Dutch early yellow, 276
early white, 275
extra long white spine, 281
Fournier, 277

„ long green, 277
Globe, 285
Goliath, green, 281
Greek or Athenian, 281
green giant ridge, 277, 278

,, Parisian long ridge, 278
half-long green, 276
Hamilton's Market Favourite,

280

improved Bourbonne, 283
long English prickly, 279
„ green, 277
,, Turkish, 274, 275
Marquis of Lome, 280
pickling, early Cluster, 283
„ „ frame, or early

short, 282

„ ,, white spine, 284

„ green Meaux, 283
,, or Gherkin, 282
Roliissons Telegraph, 279
Snake, 284

Stourbridge long green, 278
Tender and True, 280
Tuscan solid green, 281
whits Parisian long ridge, 275

INDEX

791

Cucumber, white spine Arlington or im-
proved, 282

„ „ ., extra long, 282

Cucumbers in market gardens, 270
„ „ pits and frames, 267

„ „ the open air, 272

„ on hot beds, 268

ridge, 280

„ soil and manure for, 270

„ summer and autumn, 268

„ winter and spring, 265

Cucumis Anguria, 285
,, Melo, 284, 404
„ ,, var. flexuosa, 284

„ prophetarum, 285
Cucurbita, 314

„ Lagenaria, 338

„ maxima and varieties, 315

„ moschata and varieties, 326

„ Pepo and varieties, 328

Cumin or Cummin, 286
Cuminum Cyminum, 286
CM lies, dwarf, German Greens, Canada or

Labrador dwarf green Kale, 159
Cu=tard Marrow, 333

green, 334
„ „ improved variegated, 335

or Elector's Cap, 334
„ „ orange-coloured, 335

„ „ striped, 335

„ „ white bushed scalloped,

334

yellow, 334
Cynara Cardunculus, 185

„ Scolymus, 3
Cyperus rotundus, 640

D

Dandelion, 286

„ improved giant erect, 288

„ „ very early, 287, 288

„ large green Montmagny, 288

„ moss-leaved, 288, 289

„ thick-leaved or cabbaging, 287

Daucus Carota, 189

Dill, 289

Dioscorea Batatas, 755

Dolichos, 97

„ black-eyed, 97
„ sesquipedalis, 98
„ unguiculatus, 97

E

Egg-plant, 289
„ „ Antilles giant, 294
„ „ Black Pekin, 293
„ „ Catalonian, 294
„ „ Chinese Brinjal or white China,

294

„ „ Madras, 293
„ „ Murcian, 294
„ ,. purple Barbentane very early

long, 291
„ „ „ early dwarf, 291

» long, 290
„ „ „ early, 290

Egg-plant, purple New York, 293
>» „ ,, round, 292

„ ,, Thibet, 294
„ „ white, 294
Endive, 295

„ Batavian broad-leaved, 305

„ „ hardy green winter, 307

„ „ hooded or hardy green

winter, 306

>, „ „ Bordeaux, the, 307

„ „ white, the, 306, 307

„ blanching and protecting, 296
„ culture in Britain, 296
,, curled Christmas, 304
„ „ ever-white, 303, 304

,, „ green Paris, 298

,, „ ,, Ruffec, 302

„ „ Upright, 300
,, ,, Imperial, 302

„ „ moss, 303

„ „ white, 303

,, intermediate Bordeaux, 304
,, Limay, broad-leaved, 306"
„ Louviers, 301

Picpus curled, 299

Rouen or Stag's-horn, 300, 301

summer golden-heart curled, 299

„ green curled, 298, 299
winter green fine-curled, 299
Eruca sativa, 637
Ervum Lens, 359
Erysimum praecox, 262
Evening Primrose, 307, 308

Faba vulgaris, 24
Fedia Cornucopia?, 753
Fennel, 308

,, common garden or long sweet, 308
,, ,, wild or bitter, 308

,, Finnochio or Florence, 309
,, flower, 310
Foeniculum officinale, 308

„ vulgare, 308

Fragaria, 671

alpina, 673
„ chilensis, 678
,, coUina, 678
„ elatior, 677
„ grandiflora, 678
„ vesca, 672
„ virgin iana, 678

Garden Cress, broad-leaved, 258
,, ,, common, 257

,, ,, curled or Normandy, 258

,, „ extra curled dwarf, 258

„ „ golden or Australian. 259

,, „ or Cres?, 256

Garlic, common, 310, 311
,, early pink, 312
„ great-headed, 312

red, 312

Gherkin, Boston pickling or green Pro
„ line, 284

792

INDEX

Gherkin, Chinese, the, 284
early Russian, 273
green Meaux, 283
or pickling Cucumber, 282
prickly or West Indian, 285
Toulouse, 284
West Indian, 285
Gherkins, 273

Gobo or edible Burdock, 115, 116
Gombo, Okra or, 453
Goosefoot, early, or white Quinoa, 313
Gourd, bottle, common, 340

„ ,, miniature, 340, 341

„ Brazilian sugar, 330

„ carpet bag or Maple squash, 326

„ „ „ early, or early Neapolitan

squash, 327
club, 339
early apple, 337
egg, 338
., fancy warty, 338

„ white-striped, 337, 33^
„ flat Corsican, 340, 341
„ Mammoth Whale, 323, 324
., miniature, 337

orange, 337
., pear, 336
„ „ ringed, 336
„ powder-horn, 340, 341
„ siphon, 339

„ small Chinese turban, 324, 326
„ Spanish pumpkin or, 318
„ Turk's Cap or turban, 324, 325
„ wax, 341

„ winter Canada or crook-necked, 328
„ Yokohama, 327
Gourds, 314

bottle, 338
fancy, 335
Grass, scurvy, 646

Greens, German dwarf Curlies, Canada or
Labrador dwarf green
curled Kale, 159
„ „ tall or winter, 158

H

Hartshorn, Star of the Earth, or Bucks-

horn Plantain, 115
Helianthus tuberosus, 10, 758
Hibiscus esculentus, 453
Hop, 341
Horehound, 342
Horse-radish, 342, 343
Hyssop, 344
Hyssopus officinalis, 344

I

Ice-plant, 345
Indian Corn, Maize or, 400

„ Cress, Nasturtium or, 448

Jews' Mallow, 402

Kale, asparagus or Jerusalem green curled,
159

Kale, Cottagers', 164

„ curled green dwarf, German Greensr
dwarf Curlies, Canada or Labrador
Kale, 159

„ Egyptian, 164

„ Flanders, or purple Flanders Bore-
cole, 162

„ garnishing, variegated Borecole or,
160

,, intermediate moss-curled, 159

„ Jersey kale, or tree cabbage, 161

„ ,, large-leaved or Sarthe cow-

cabbage, 162

,, ,,' tree or, 162

,, J erusalem green curled or asparagus,

159

„ „ or Delaware, 164

,, marrow, 163
,, „ red, 163

,, Milan, 164
,, Mosbach winter, 158
„ or Borecole, 158
„ Ragged Jack, 164
,, Russian, 157
„ Scotch or late green curled, 158
„ tall purple or purple winter Greens,

160
Kohl-Rabi, 164

artichoke-leaved, 166

common white, 165

Neapolitan, the, 166

purple, 165

Vienna early purple, 166
,, white, 166

white Goliath, 165

Lablab vulgaris, 100
Lactuca angustana, 398
„ capitata, 362
„ perennis, 399
,, sativa, 360
Lagenaria vulgaris, 338
Lappa edulis, 115
Lathyrus sativus, 243
Lavandula spica, 346
,, vera, 346

Lavender, common, 346

,, true, 346
Lavenders, 345
Leat Beet or Swiss Chard Beet, 347

„ „ white, 348

,, „ „ or Spanish Beet, 348
Leek, 350

,, Brabant short broad, 357

,, broad or London flag, 355

„ Bulgarian, 354

,, Carentan, giant, 357

„ Lion, the, 358

„ Mezieres, long, 353, 354

„ Musselburgh or Scotch flag, 358

„ Perpetual, 357, 358

„ Poitou, large yellow, 355, 356

„ Rouen, large, 356

,, small mountain, 358

,, winter Flanders, 357

„ long Paris, 353
Lens esculenta, 359

INDEX

793

Lentil, Auvergne, or One-flowered Tare,

360

,, large yellow, 359
„ Puy green, 360
„ small March, 360
„ ,, winter, 360

Lentils, 359

Leontodon Taraxacum, 286
Lepidium sativum, 256
Levisticum officinale, 399
Lettuce, 360

Algiers, 371

American curled, 397

asparagus, 398

Beauregard, laciniated, 397

Bigotte, 369

blond Stonehead or Blockhead,

Boston Market, 387

brown Stonehead or Blockhead,

378

butter, black-seeded, 386
,, Californian cream, 386
„ Philadelphia, 386

St. Louis, 386
cabbage, 362

Bellegarde, 383
black-seeded A ll-the- Y ear-
Round, 372
,, crisped, 367

Blond Blockhead, 382
brown, 383

,, „ ,, Batavian or Mar-

seilles, 380, 381

»•> „ „ Genoa, 377

„ „ Coquille, 369

„ ., curled German Batavian

or curled Silesian, 380
„ „ Dutch, 384

,, ., ,, butter-head early

or, 370

„ „ „ black-seeded, 384

„ „ „ black-seeded

brown, 384
„ „ ,, white-seeded

brown, 376

„ ,, early Simpson, 379

„ „ „ white spring or

Paris Market
forcing, 368
„ „ George, early white

spring, 370

„ ,, giant summer, 377

„ „ golden-headed, 372

„ „ green crisped, 370

„ fat, 374, 375

,, ,, „ Tennis Ball, 370

„ „ Hammersmith, 363

„ „ Hammersmith, or hardy

green winter, 363

„ „ Imperial or Asiatic, 374

„ ,, improved spotted, 378,

379

„ „ large Bossin, 381, 382

„ „ „ Versailles, 373

„ ,, Marvel of Cazard, 372

„ „ „ or red Besson,

378

Lettuce, Cabbage, Milly forcing, 366
»> » Mogul, 376

„ „ „ or black-seeded

giant summer,
387

Mortatella, 384
Mousseronne, 370
Neapolitan, 381
New Gem, 385
Pas de Calais, 385
Premium, 386
red, 385
„ edged Trocadero or

Big Boston, 375
„ edged Victoria, 369
Roquette, 365
spotted, 385, 386
spring varieties, 366
Turkish or butter,
Russian or Asiatic,
374
Unrivalled, 376

,, or improved
Big Boston, 375
white-seeded crisp or
early Paris cutting,
367

white-seeded Tennis Ball
or Boston Market, 367
white Stone, 386

,, „ or Nonpar eilf

373, 374

winter brown, 364, 365
hardy red, 365
large white, 364
Madeira large,

362
Tremont, 364

varieties, 362
California curled, 397
Cendrette du Havre, 384
Chartier, 386
Chavigny white, 373
Cocasse a Graine Noire, 369
Cos Balloon, 392
„ black-seeded Bath, 394
„ „ Florence or Mag-

num Bonum, 392
„ brown or Bath, 393
„ dwarf white-heart, 396
„ early white self-folding Tria-
non, 390

„ gray Paris, 390
„ green Limagne, 389
., „ Paris, 389
,, „ ,, or Buckland, 389
„ ground, 391

improved spotted, 394
large white Du Chesnay, 391
Magdalena, 396
Monstrous brown, 393
Romaine Blonde de Niort,

395
„ Chicon Jaune Su-

perieure, 396
„ de Chalabre, 395
,, du Mexique, 396
„ Epinerolle, 395

794

INDEX

Lettuce, Cos, Romaine Fris6e Bayonnaise,

396

„ Parisienne, 396
spotted or Aleppo, 394
spring and summer, 389
sprouting, 395
summer varieties of, 391
white long-standing, 392
Paris, 390
seeded Bath, 393

„ Florence or Mag-
numBonum, 391
wintergreen, 388

red, 388, 389
Royal green, 388
varieties of, 388
curled German Batavian, 380
cutting black-seeded, 396, 397
„ endive-leaved, 398
„ oak-leaved, 398
,, white, 396
Dauphine, 370
De Neris, 385
„ Zelande, 386
Deacon or San Francisco Market,

386

Detroit Market Gardeners', 387
Drumhead, 387

„ Malta or Ice, 382, 383
earliest dwarf green, 371
early curled Silesia, 387

,, Ohio or Nonpareil, 379
Empereur a Forcer, 371
Eureka, 387
Fontenay, 384
Fox Sterling, 386
Frankfort, 384
French Torn Thumb, 368
Gardener's Favourite, 387
George, 370
golden curled, 387

„ Queen, 386
Grasse de Bourges, 370
green Madrid, 382
Hamilton Market, 387
Hanson, 387
Hubbard's forcing, 371
,, market, 386
India head, 386
Lamb's or common Corn Salad,

251

large brown and hard-head, 386
„ India, 387
„ loaf, 386
,, yellow-Surehead, 386
Lebcsuf, 383

Marble-head Mammoth, 386
Maximum, 386
Moonshine, 387
Morse, the, 387
Mortella, 385
Myers' "All-right," 386
new Egyptian sprouting, 398

„ large-head, 387
Nonpareil, 387
Normandy, large, 375
perennial, 399
perpetual, 387

Lettuce, Rose ou Rouge d'Ete, 385

„ Russian, 386

„ Salamander, 387
Silver Ball, 386

„ Sugar-loaf, 387

„ Tannhauser, 386

„ Tennis Ball, black-seeded, 387

„ Titlon's White Star, 387

,, Tomhannock, 387

„ Wheeler's Tom Thumb, 369

„ white Batavian or Silesian, 380

„ „ Madeira, 363

„ „ seeded All-the-Y ear -Round,

37i> 372

„ „ Silesian, 380

„ winter hardy green, 387

„ Wonderful, 387
Lettuces, Cos, 387

„ small or cutting, 396

„ spring, 362

„ summer, 362, 371

„ winter, 361

,, yellow-seeded butter or Market
Gardeners' private stock, 386
Ligusticum Levisticum, 399
Lotus Tetragonolobus, 549
Lovage or Lovache, 399
Love-Apple, Tomato or, 707
Lycopersicum esculentum, 707

M
Maize, Concord, 401

early Crosby, 401

,, Minnesota, 401
extra early dwarf, 401
large early eight-rowed, 401
or Indian Corn, 400
Stowell's evergreen late, 401
Mallow, curled or curled-leaved, 401

„ Jews', 402
Malva crispa, 401
Mangel Wurzel, 600
Marigold, pot, 402
Marjoram, pot or perennial, 403
,, sweet or annual, 404

Marrow, bush, long white, 331
custard, 333

green, 334

improved variegated, 335
or Elector's Cap, 334
orange -coloured, 335
striped, 335

white bush, scalloped, 334
yellow, 334
Prolific early, 321
squash Boston, 321

„ Ohio or Californian, 322
vegetable, 329

Italian, 331, 332
long yellow, 330
warted, 320
Marrubium vulgare, 342
Martynia, 752
Meadow Cress, 263
Melissa officinalis, 20
Melon, 405

,, Antibes, green-flesh, 418

INDEX

795

Melon, Bailey's green-fleshed, 422

„ Baltimore or Acme, 422

„ Beechwood, 422

„ Blanc a Chair Verte, 418

„ „ de Russie, 418

„ Blenheim Orange, 421

„ bomb-shaped, 425, 426

„ Boulet de Canon, 418

„ Cantaloup, Algerian, 428, 429

„ „ apple-shaped, 424

„ „ Archangel, 430

,. , Bellegarde, 423

„ Black Dutch, 430

„ „ „ Portugal or Rock,

429

„ „ early Black Rock or Des

Cannes, 425

„ „ „ English, 430

„ „ Epinal, 430

„ ,, green-fleshed, 429

„ „ large rock, 426, 427

» » Mogul, 430

„ „ or Rock, 423

„ „ orange, 430

„ „ Parisian, 427, 428

» » Passy, 430, 431

„ „ PrescottaEcorceMince,

43i
„ „ „ Cul de Singe,

43i

„ „ ,, silvery, 427

„ „ sugar, 426

„ ,, Vaucluse, 424

„ ,, Vauriac, 428

,, Cavaillon green-fleshed or Malta

summer, 416

„ ,, red- fleshed, 415

„ ,, „ ribbed, 416

„ Christiana, 421
„ Colston Bassett seedling, 422
„ Composite, 419
„ Crawley Paragon, 421
,, Cyprus', 418
„ Davenham early, 422
„ de Cassaba or de la Casba, 418
„ „ Coulommiers, 419
„ d'Esclavonie, 419
de Langeais, 419
early crop, 407
Eastnor Castle, 422
Emerald Gem, 421
golden Perfection, 412, 413

Queen, 423
green climbing, 412

,, fleshed ^Egyptian, 422
„ „ Gilbert's, 422
Hackensack, 423

,, extra early, 423

Hero of Bath, 421

,, ,, Lockinge, 422
High Cross hybrid, 423
Hornfleur, 414

„ very long netted, 415

hybrid Vallerand, 415
Japanese early green, 420
Longleat Perfection, 422
Montreal Market, 423
Moscatelle, 419

Melon, Munro's Little Heath, 421
„ Musk Bay View, 422
„ „ Surprise, 421

„ Netted Gem or Rock Ford, 423
„ Netted Siam, 420

„ Skillman's, 423
„ Nutmeg, 414
„ Osage or Miller's Cream, 421
„ Paris Market Garden, 413
„ „ „ „ round netted,

413

„ Paul Rose or Petoskey, 421
„ Persian or Odessa, 419
„ Pine -Apple green-fleshed or Jersey

greeri citron, 411
„ „ red-fleshed, 411

„ Pomegranate, 431
„ Prescott early frame, 425
„ Queen Emma, 422
„ Quito, 420
„ red-fleshed, 421
„ „ scarlet flesh, 421
„ Scarlet Gem, 421
„ St. Louis Market Garden, 414
„ sugar, green-fleshed, 420
„ ,, Tours netted, 413
„ sweet-scented or Queen Anne's

Pocket, 431

„ Victory of Bath, Gilbert's im-
proved, 423

„ „ „ Bristol, 421

„ water, 432

black-seeded, 434

,, Spanish, 435
citron, 435
Cuban Queen, 435
dark icing, 436
early Rodosto, 433
„ „ very early,

433

„ „ „ Russian, 433

„ „ Excelsior, 435

„ „ Florida Favourite, 435

„ Gipsy, 435

„ „ Ice Cream or Peerless, 463

„ „ icing, Ice-rind, or straw-

berry, 436

„ „ Mountain or Mountain

Sweet, 436

„ „ Mountain Sprout, 436

„ „ orange, 436

„ „ Rattlesnake, 436

„ „ red-seeded, 435

„ „ „ „ or red-fleshed,

434

„ „ round light icing, Ice-rind

strawberry, 436

„ „ Seikon, 434

„ very early, 434

„ ,, Sweetheart, 436

„ William Tillery, 423

,, Windsor Prize, 421

,, winter green-fleshed, 417

„ „ Olive, 471

,, ,, red-fleshed Malta, 416, 417
Melons, American varieties, of, 435

„ bottom heat for, 410

,. Cantaloup varieties of, 430

796

INDEX

Melons, English and American varieties,

, 420

„ forcing, 406
„ general crop, 407
,, green-flesh varieties, 422
,, netted varieties, 411, 418
„ open-air culture, 410
,, soil for, 410
,, white-fleshed varieties, 422
Mentha Pulegium, 437

,, viridis, 436

Mesembrianthemum crystallinum, 345
Mint, Cat, 438
„ Cluster cup fungus, 777
„ Japanese, 437
,, or Spearmint, 436
Mugwort, 438
Mushroom-bed in the open air, protected

with straw, 444

,, ,, movable two-sided, 443

„ spawn in clumps, 443
,, tablet, 439
Mushrooms, 438, 440

„ beds placed against a wall, some

movable, 441

„ grown in a tub, 442

Mustard, black, brown, or grocer's, 446
„ Chinese cabbage-leaved, 446, 447
,, „ curled, 448

„ „ tuberous-rooted, 447

„ white or salad, 446

N
Nasturtium, dwarf, 449

„ or Indian Cress, 448

„ officinale, 259

,, tuberous -rooted, 449

Nepeta cataria, 438
Nigella sativa, 310
Nightshade, black-berried, 450

,, Malabar, 451

Nut, Pea, 550

,, „ Earth Nut or Ground Nut, 549
„ Rush or Chufa, 640

Ocimum Basilicum, 21
(Enothera biennis, 307
Oka-plant, 452

„ „ tubers of, 452
Okra, dwarf Prolific, 454

„ early Sultani, 454

„ long- fruited green, 453, 454

„ or Gombo, 453

,, round-fruited, 454

,, white velvet, 454
Onion, 454

„ Ailsa Craig, 763

„ Barletta, small white extra early, 458

„ Bedfordshire Champion, 472

„ blood-red or St. Thomas', 647

„ bright red August, 467

„ brown Portugal, 462

„ Brun de Sainte-Laurent 472

„ Cabosse, 472

„ Cantello's Prize, 472

,, Catawissa, 470, 471

Onion, Chamois glatte Wiener Zwiebel, 472

,, common pale red, 465

„ Como flat yellow, 472

„ Cranston's Premier, 763
„ ,, Excelsior, 763

„ d'Aigre, 471

„ Danvers yellow, 463

„ De Genes, 474

„ ,, Puyregner or Rouge d' Angers,

474

„ „ Tenenffe, 474
„ „ Vaugiraud, 475
„ „ Villefranche, 475
„ Deptford or Essex, 473
„ Dutch, large yellow, 473
,, ,, white round, 460
„ early flat red, 467, 473
,, „ Paris silver -skinned, 459
,, „ white Nocera, 459
„ ,, „ Valence, 460
Exhibition, 763
Fly, 777
Geant de Garganus Blanc, 473

Rouge, 473
giant Rocca, 469
„ Zittau, 464
Globe red, 474
„ white, 475

,, ,, or Southport white, 467

Italian blood-red flat, 469
James's Keeping, 465
Keeping Market Favourite, 465
Lescure yellow, 473
Lisbon, white, 461
Mtzie'rcs, bright red, 473
Monteragone, 474
Mulhouse, 473
Naseby Mammoth, 474
Neapolitan Maggiojola white, 461
New Queen, 458, 459
Niort pale red, 466
Niirnberger Zwiebel, 474
Palle de Chateau Renard, 472
,, Gros de Bale, 472
Pear-shaped, 470

Port Sainte-Marie very early rose-
coloured, 465
Potato, 471

Rouge de Castillon, 472
„ „ Salon, 474
„ „ pale d'Alais, 472
,, ,, de Tournon, 475
„ Monstre, 474
Russian, yellow, 474
Spanish, brown Portugal or straw-
coloured white, 462
,, Giant or Spanish King,

464
,, sulphur -coloured white

Reading or, 462
Trebons, yellow, 463
Tree, Egyptian or Bulb-bearing, 470
Tripoli flat, 468

„ ,, or flat red Madeira, 468
„ Globe or Madeira, 468
„ Italian, 462

,, ,, large white flat, 461

two-bladed, 475

INDEX

797

Onion, Welsh early white or English, 476
„ „ or Ciboule, 475

„ „ „ ,, common or French

Red, 478

„ ,, perennial, 476

„ Wethersfield, 475
Orache, 477

dark red, 477

„ green or Lee's Giant, 478
,, white, 477
„ „ or yellow, 477

Origanum Majorana, 404
,, vulgare, 403 '
Oxalis acetosella, 660
„ crenata, 452
,, Deppei, 660
Oyster-plant, Spanish, 478
Vegetable, 478

Para Cress, 263
Parsley, 478

„ Champion moss-curled, 481
,, common or plain, 480
,, double curled, 481
,, „ dwarf, 481

„ fern-leaved, 481, 482
„ Hamburgh early, 483
„ „ late, 482

„ market-garden culture, 480
„ turnip -rooted or Hamburgh large-
rooted, 482

Parsnip, hollow-crown, half-long, or Stu-
dent, 486, 487
„ „ long smooth, 485,

486

„ long, 485, 486
„ round, 487
Parsnips, 483

„ soil for, 484

sowing and th inning, 484
storing, 484
Pastinaca sativa, 483
Patience Dock or Garden Patience, 488

„ „ or Herb Patience, 487

Pea, Abundance, 545, 769
„ Admiral, 545
»i » Dewey, 545

,, Alaska blue, 506
,, Alderman, 545
,, Ambassador, 545
,, American Wonder, 526
„ Annonay dwarf very early, 514
,, Autocrat, 769
„ Batt's Wonder, 541
,, Beck's Gem, 541
,, Bedman's Imperial, 542
,, Bishop's early dwarf, 510
,, „ long-pod, 510, 511
„ Bivort, 537
,, Blanc de Auvergne, 537
,, Blue Beauty, 514
„ „ dwarf English, 542
„ „ Prussian, 542
„ Bountiful, 769
„ Brittany, very dwarf, 515
„ Buchsbaum-Erbse, 548

Pea, Cafe, 537
„ Captain Cuttle, 545
,, Celebrity, 545
„ Centenary, 769
,, Champion of England, 545
„ Charlton, 542
„ Chelsea Gem, 526, 768
,, Chick, 243
„ „ white, 244
„ Clamart early, 500
„ „ „ dwarf, 512

„ „ late, 504

„ Claudit, 542
„ Colossus, 520
,, Connoisseur, 545
,, Continuity, 769
,, Couturier dwarf, 515
,. Criterion, 545
„ Crown Prince, 545
„ Daisy, 545

,, Daniel O'Rourke, 495, 496

„ De Cerons Hatif, 538
,, „ Commenchon, 538

,, „ „ Sans Parchemin, 540

,, „ Lorraine, 538
„ ,, Madere, 538

„ Dickson's Favourite, 542

„ Domine, 538

„ Dore, 538

„ Dr. Hogg, 545
„ „ MacLean, 545

„ Duchess of York, 769

,, Duke of Albany, 522, 523, 769

„ „ York, 545

„ Dutch dwarf, 511

„ dwarf Blue Prussian, 513

„ Dwarf, 767

„ Earliest of All, 542

,, Early, How to grow, 765

„ early Emperor, 497, 542
„ „ „ or double-blossom frame,

497

„ frame, 498, 499
„ „ giant, 769

„ Kent, 543
,, „ Maple, 546

„ early William, 507

„ edible-podded forty days', 527, 528

,, Emerald Gem, 496

„ English Wonder, 527, 768

,, Etampes Wonder, 500, 501

„ Eureka, 769

„ Exonian, 546

„ Express, 506

„ Fairbeard's Surprise, 543

„ Feve, 538

„ First and Best or Prince Albert, 494

,, Flack's Imperial, 543

„ frame, early dwarf, 514

„ Friolet Sans Parchemin, 540

„ Friihe Heinrich's Zucker-Erbse, 548

„ G. F. Wilson, 528

„ Gardener's Delight, 546

„ Geant, 538

„ Gladiator, 513

„ Gladstone, 769

„ Gouvigny, 504

„ Gradus, 518

798

INDEX

Pea, green Hundred for One, 508
„ Gross Jaune, 538
„ „ Quarantain de Cahors, 538
„ Grosse graue Florentiner Zucker-

Erbse, 548

„ Hair's dwarf Mammoth, 546
„ Harbinger, 543
„ Hay's Mammoth, 546
„ Hollandische griinbleibende spate

Zucker-Erbse, 549
„ Imperial dwarf blue, 512
„ Incomparable, 769
„ Jaune d'Or de Blocksberg, 548
„ John Bull, 546
„ Kapuziner-Erbse, 548
„ Kelvedonian, 546
„ Kentish Invicta, 543
„ King Edward VII., 546, 769
„ „ of the Marrows or tall green

Mammoth, 547
„ Laxton's Alpha, 521

Evergreen, 543

Fillbasket, 512, 513

Marvel, 546

Omega, 546

Prolific long-pod, 543

Superlative, 543

Supplanter, 543

Supreme, 508

The Shah, 518

Unique, 544

le

plus Hatif biflore de Gendbrugge,

538

Leopold II., 498, 499
Lightning, 495
Little Gem, 546
MacLean's Best of All, 524, 525

„ Blue Peter, 516
Mammoth late square or Normandy,

509

Mange-tout Demi-nain a QEU Noir, 540
Marly, 503
Marrow, Giant, or Royal Victoria, 505

„ Knight's dwarf, 541

„ „ tall, 520

„ late, 766

Paradise, 544

„ Peruvian Black-eye, 544

„ Prizetaker, green, 544

„ toll green wrinkled, 521, 522

„ the late, 492

„ Victoria, 505

„ Woodford, 544

„ wrinkled Knight's dwarf
green, 524

,, ,, white Eugenie, 523

Masterpiece, 769
May Queen, 546

,, „ very early, 496
melting Saint-Desirat, 531, 532
Michaux a (Eil Noir, 537

„ de Nanterre, 538
Migron, 539
Minimum, 547
Multum in Parvo, 547
Nain gros Blanc de Bordeaux, 539
„ „ Sucre, 539
„ vert de St. Michel, 539

Pea, Nain vert Petit, 539
„ Ne Plus Ultra, 547, 767, 769
„ Nelson's Vanguard, 547
„ Norwich Wonder, 547
„ Nutting's No. i, 547
„ Philadelphia extra early, 544
„ Pioneer, 546, 768
„ Pride of the Market, 516, 517, 769
„ Prince Albert, 494
,, Prince of Peas, 769
„ Prince of Wales, 769
„ Princess of Wales, 547
„ purple-podded, 517, 518
„ Quarantain, 539
„ Quarante-deux, 539
„ Quite content, 769
,, Remontant vert a Demi-Rames, 539
„ „ „ a Rames, 539

„ Ride tres-nain a Bordures, 539
„ Royal dwarf, 544
„ Ruelle Michaux, 497, 498
„ Ruhm von Cassel-Erbse, 548
„ Rural New Yorker, 495
„ Sabre, 502
,, Sangster's No. i, 496
„ „ „ or improved early

Champion, 495

„ Sans Parchemin a Cosse Jaune, 540
a Fleur Rouge, 540
Nain Capucine, 540
„ Gris, 540
„ Hatif de Hoi-

lande, 541
„ Ordinaire, 541
Ride Nain, 541
Saumur, giant, 503, 504
Scimitar blue, 541

,, long-podded improved, 502
„ white, 501, 502
Sehr friihe Buchsbaum de GrSce, 549
Sharpe's early Paragon, 547
Sherwood, the, 548
Shilling's Grotto, 547
sowing and gathering, 767
Standard, 547
Stratagem, 527, 769
Sugar, Debarbieux, 535, 536
,, early dwarf Brittany, 534
„ giant, 533

„ „ very large-podded, 531
„ large crooked or Scimitar, 529
„ „ ., or Scimitar, pods

of, 53i

„ tall butter, 528, 530
,, ., early long-pod, 528, 529
,, ,, green-seeded, 529
,, very dwarf Dutch frame, 537
Tall, 767
Telegraph, 548
Telephone, Carter's, 519
three-podded, tall. 509
Veitch's Perfection, 769
Vert Nain du Cap, 540
Wem, 548
William Hurst, 527
William the Conqueror, 544
„ First, 506, 768
winged, 549

INDEX

799

Pea, Witham Wonder, 527
„ wrinkled, 545
., „ tall, large white or British

Queen, 521

„ „ Yorkshire Hero, 548
„ „ Zwerg-Buchsbaum de Grace,

549
Pear Gourd, 336

„ ringed, 336
Peas, 488

„ dwarf varieties, 514, 526

„ English, 541

„ French, 537

„ German, 548

„ half dwarf, 510, 523

„ „ „ and dwarf, 534

„ round or smooth -skinned, 494, 541

„ shelling, 494, 537

„ smooth or green-seeded, 512

„ „ „ round white, 514

„ „ „ ,, „ seeded, 510

„ sowing and gathering, 492

„ succession, 491

„ sugar or edible-podded, 527

„ tall and dwarf, 493

„ „ climbing, 494, 518, 527

„ „ round or smooth-seeded, 506

„ white-seeded, 518

„ wrmkled, 518

„ green, 524

„ „ ,, seeded, 526

„ „ tall, 521
Pennyroyal, 437
Pepper, American Bonnet or red Tomato

Capsicum, 182
Pepper, Cardinal, 176

„ Cherry, 178

„ Chili or Chillies, 177

„ Chinese giant, 183

„ Coral Gem or Bouquet, 178

„ Cranberry, 179

„ early dwarf red Spanish, 183

„ Golden Dawn, 180

„ Guinea, or long red Capsicum, 175

,, improved Bell-nose, 179

„ large Bell or Capsicum, 179

„ long Cayenne, 176

„ ,, red Spanish, 175

„ „ yellow, 177

„ Mexican long black, 177

„ red, Capsicum or, 173

„ „ Cluster, 178

„ ,, Tomato or Squash, 182

,, Ruby King, 180
Peppermint, 437

Pe-Tsai or Chinese Cabbage, 171
Petroselinum sativum, 478
Phaseolus lunatus, 95
„ multiflorus, 90
„ vulgaris, 32
Physalis pubescens, 729
Pimpinella anisum, 2
Pisum sativum, 488
Plantago coronopus, 114
Plantain, Buckshorn, Hartshorn, or Star

of the Earth, 115
Portulaca oleracea, 604
Potato, Abdul Hamid, 598

Potato, Abundance, 779
„ Achille L6mon, 585
„ Achilles, 598
„ Adirondack, 596
„ Agnelli's Jewel, 556
„ Alice Fenn, 590
„ Alkohol, 598
„ Ally, 779
„ Alpha, 596
„ American Wonder, 574
„ Arran Chief, 771
„ Arran Comrade, 779
„ Artichaut Jaune, 585
„ Aspasie, 585
„ Aurora, 598
„ Beds Hero, 565
„ Belle Augustine, 585
„ „ de Vincennes, 585
„ „ of Fontenay, 569

» ,. v July, 569, 570
„ Biscuit, 599

Bismarck, 599

Blackleg of, 780

Blaue Riesen, 599

Bonne Wilhelmine. 585

Bovinia, 590

Brandale, 585

Breesee's Peerless, 596

Britannia, 591

British Queen, 771

BrownelTs Beauty, 596

Caillaud, 585.

Calico, 596

Canada, 555

Cardinal, 578, 579

Centennial, 596

Chancellor, 562

Chandernagor, 585

Chapman, the, 771

Chardon, 586

Cigarette, 554

Coldstream, or Hogg's Cold-
stream, 591

Cornice d' Amiens, 586

Compton's Surprise, 597

Cottager's red, 577

Crofter, 771

Culture, 769, 770

Czarina, 582

Dalmahoy, 591

Dargill early, 779

Dawe's Matchless, 591

Dean, the, 591

De Malte, 587

„ Zelande, 590

Des Cordillieres, 586

Descroizilles, 586

early Cottage, 597

Duke of York, 770

Eclipse, 770

Emperor Napoleon, 591

Favourite, 770

Goodrich, 597

June, 591

May Queen, 591, 770

Midlothian, 770

Ohio, 597

Puritan, 592

Soo

INDEX

Potato, early Rose, 576

Sharpe's Express, 771

„ Victor, 771
Sir John Llewelyn, 770
Snowdrop, 770
Varieties, 770, 77 1
Victor, 565
Edouard Lefort, 557
Edzell blue, 779
Epicure, 770
Euphyllos, 599
Eureka, 597
Excellente Naine, 586
Feinste kleine weisse Mandel, 599
Fenn's early market, 592
Friihe blaue Rosen, 599

,, rothe Markische, 599
Carton, the, 592
Gelbe Rose, 599
Gem, 592

General Roberts, 592
Giant, Reading, 592

„ unequalled, 557, 558
Gladiator, 771
Globus, 599
Golden Eagle or Radstock Beauty,

592

„ Wonder, 779
Grampian, 592
Great Scot, 771, 779
Grosse jaune deuxieme hative,

586

Hannibal, 599
Harbinger, 592

Hative de Bourbon-Lancy, 586
Hermann, 599
Igname, 603
Imperator, 555, 556
Incomparable, 584
Institut de Beauvais, 575
Internationale, 593
Jaune, 603

„ longue de Hollande, 586
„ ronde hative de Provence,

587

Jeance, 560, 561
Joseph Rigault, 573
Juno, 599, 600
Kaiser Kartoffel, 600
Karl der Grosse, 600
Kerr's pink, 779
Kidney, Ash-leaved, pure, 594

purple, 594
» „ Royal, 568,

569

„ International, 592

,, nettle-leaved or early Bed-

ford, 570
„ Robertson's Giant, 577,

578

,, Sutton's seedling, 562

,, walnut-leaved, 566

„ Wonderful red, 595

,, Woodstock, 595
King Edward, 771
King George, 771
King of the Earlies, 597
„ Flukes, 593

Potato, Kleopatra, 600

„ Kopsell's friihe weisse Kartoffel,

600

„ Lady Webster, 593
,, Lapstone or Yorkshire Hero, 564
,, Late Rose, 597
„ La Bretonne, 583
„ Leda, 593
„ Lerchen- Kartoffel, 600
,, Lochar, the, 771
,, Long Keeper, 771
,, Lord of the Isles, 593
„ M. Eiffel, 587
,, Magnum Bonum, 563, 564
Majestic, 779
Manhattan, 597
Marceau, 587
Marjolin, 566, 567

„ Tetard, 568
May Queen, 770
Midlothian Early, 770
milky white, 593
Model, 593
Mona's Pride, 594
Montana, 600
Naine Hative, 587
Negresse, 581
Noisette Sainville, 587
Norwegian golden-yellow, 554
oblong and long yellow, 5 61
Oblongue de Malabry, 587
Ohio Junior, 561
Our Boys, 594
Pasteur, 5, 7, 588
Paterson's Victoria, 594
Patraque Blanche, 588
Peach Blow, 598
Peake's first early, 583, 584
Porter's Excelsior, 594
Pousse-debout, 578, 579
Prince of Wales, 571
Princesse, 572
Professor, 594

„ Maerker, 556
Quarantaine a Tete Rose, 588
Quarantaine violet-coloured, 580
Queen of the Polders, 562, 563

„ „ Valley, 598
Reading Russet, 594
Rector of Woodstock, 594
red-skinned Flour-ball, 573
Regent or Shaw, 553
Reine Blanche, 588

„ de Mai, 588
Rentpayer, 595
Richter's Schneerose, 600
Rickmaker, 588
Riesen Sand- Kartoffel, 600
Rognon Rose, 588
Rohan, 589
Rosalie, 600
Rose de Malaga, 603
Rosee de Cornflans, 589
Rosette, 589
Rothe Unvergleichliche Salat-

Kartoffel, 601

Rouge ronde de Strasbourg, 589
Ruby, 598

INDEX

801

Potato, Sachsische Zwiebel - Kartoffel

gelbfleischige, 601
„ Sachsische Zwiebel - Kartoffel

weissfleischige, 60 1
„ Saint Germain, 589

„ Patrick, 595
„ Sainte Helene, 589
„ Saucisse Blanche, 589
„ Schoolmaster, 595
„ Scotch Blue, 595
„ Champion, 559, 560

„ seed tubers, sprouting, 771, 772

Seguin, 559

„ Snowdrop, 771, 779
„ Snowflake, 561
„ Spargel-Kartoflfel, 60 1
„ spraying, 771

„ sprouting the seed tubers, 771, 772
„ Standard, 595

Superb, 595
„ Sweet, 601
„ ,, red, 603
Tanguy, 589

„ Tardive d' Irlande, 589
„ Tonwald perfection, 779
,, Triumph, 598
„ Trufife d' Aout, 589
„ Turner's Union, 595
„ Unica, 601
„ Up-to-Date, 554, 771
„ Van der Veer, 60 1
„ variegated-leaved, 577
„ varieties, select, 770
Vicar of Laleham, 581
Victor, 565

„ Village Blacksmith, 575
„ Violette, 590
„ Vitelotte, 579, 580
„ wart disease of, 778

White Elephant, 576
„ „ Emperor, 595

„ „ Horn, 563

„ WiUard, 598
„ Windsor Castle, 771
„ Wormleighton seedling, 596
Xavier, 590
Yam, 590

,, yellow, early round, 553
„ Yorkshire hybrid, 571
Potatoes, 550

„ English varieties, 590
,, French varieties, 585

German varieties, 598
,, Kidney, walnut-leaved, sprouted

in a basket, 567
„ red or pink oblong or long

varieties, 575
„ round red, 573
,, violet -coloured, 580
Poterium Sanguisorbal, 116
Primrose, Evening, 307, 308
Puccinia Menthtz, 777
Pumpkin, Boulogne gray, 319
„ Etampes, 317

„ Globe Mammoth, 317

„ large bronze-coloured Montlhtry,

3*9
„ „ green, 318

Pumpkin, large Tours, 333

„ long yellow, 316

„ Nicaise, 318

„ Spanish or Gourd, 318

Pumpkins, 316
Purslane, 604

„ golden, 605

„ green, 604, 605

„ large-leaved, 605

„ winter, 605, 606

Q
Quinoa, white, or Annual Goosefoot, 313

R

Radish, Ardeche field, 621

„ Blanc Demi-long de la Meurthe

et de la Meuse, 630
„ Californian, or Mammoth white,

629

„ De Mahon, 630
„ deep scarlet intermediate, 615
„ forcing bright red leafless, 612, 613

,, long white Pearl, 620
French Breakfast, 615
Friiher Zwei-Monat Rettig, 630
Globe early deep scarlet, 612
Gournay large purple, 627
Gris et Oblong, 630
Gros d'Hiver de Ham, 630
Horse, 342, 343
long Chartier, 619
,, Normandy or Marsh, 620
„ purple, 619
„ scarlet or salmon-coloured,

617, 618

„ white Naples, 620
,, „ Vienna, 620

olive-shaped deep scarlet white-
tipped, 616

„ deep scarlet white-

„ tipped forcing, 616

„ early deep scarlet,

616
„ early deep scarlet,

very, 616
„ forcing white-tipped,

615
„ or intermediate, 614

purple, 617
„ scarlet, 614

,, white, 617

,, forcing, 617
Rat-tailed, 631
Rond rouge fonce, 630
summer black long, 624
Triumph, 613

Turnip, deep scarlet Pamir, 629
,, early purple, 614

„ „ scarlet white-tipped,

611
„ ,, scarlet white-tipped,

forcing, 611

„ forcing deep scarlet, 612
„ „ deep scarlet, white

tipped, 612
„ „ scarlet, 611

51

802

INDEX

Radish, Turnip, gray summer, 622
„ „ scarlet, 610

„ „ ,, early, 610

,f .. Stttttgart early giant white,

622

., ., summer golden-yellow, 623

,, ,, ,, large white, 622

,, ,, ,, small black, 624

„ ,, summer white Strasbourg

or white Hospital, 624
„ „ summer yellow, 623

„ ,, very early yellow, 614

„ „ white, 613

„ „ „ Chinese or Celestial,

630

„ „ „ small early, 613, 614

„ „ white tipped brightest

scarlet or cardinal, 619
,, ,, white tipped cardinal, 619

„ „ ,, purple, 614

„ „ winter black Spanish, 625

„ ,, ,, Chinese scarlet, 628

„ ,, ,, crooked or Mans

Corkscrew, 621

„ winter, Laon long gray, 626, 627
„ ,, large purple, 625, 626

„ „ „ white Russian, 627,

628

„ ,, ,, „ Spanish, 627

„ whiter long black Spanish, 626
„ Wood, early frame, 618
Radishes, 606

„ culture for market, 609
,, long, 617
„ other varieties of, 630
„ round or turnip-rooted, 610
,, small or forcing, 610
„ special beds for, 608
„ summer and autumn, 621
„ ,, ,, winter, 608

„ winter, 625
Rampion, 631
Raphanus caudatus, 631

„ sativus, 606
Rheum, 632

„ hybridum, 632
Rhubarb, 632

„ Daw's Champion, 773
„ Hawkes' Champagne, 636, 773
„ hybrid Florentine, 636
„ market-garden culture, 635
„ Mitchell's Royal Albert, 636
,, Myatt's Linnaeus, 637
„ ,, Victoria, 637

Scott's Monarch, 637
„ stalks of, 633
,, Tobolsk, early red, 636
Rocambole, 312
Rocket Salad, 637, 638

„ Turkish," 638
Rosemary, 638, 639
Rosmarinus officinalis, 638
Rotation of Crops, 773
Rue, 639
Rumex, 657

,. acetosa, 657
„ arifolius, 659
montanus, 650

Rumex Patientia, 487
,, scutatus, 659
Rush Nut, or Chufa, 640
Ruta graveolens, 639

Saffron-plant, 640, 641
Sage, 641
Salsafy, 478

,, Mammoth Sandwich Islands, 642
,, or Vegetable Oyster, 642
Salvia officinalis, 641

,, Sclarea, 250
Samphire, 643
Satureia hortensis, 644
,, montana, 644
Savory, summer, 644

,, winter, 644, 645
Savoy Cabbage, Aire, 146

„ „ „ extra fine curled, 147

„ „ Cape or large late green,

U7
„ „ Drumhead, large hardy

winter, 149
» » >» large Vertus,

148, 149
„ „ dwarf early green curled,

145

„ ,, ,, Roblet, 145, 146

„ ,, early flat green curled, 146

„ ,, large Aubervilliers, 148

Limay, 149
long-headed, 148
Norwegian, 150
Paris very early, 145
small Belleville, 150
St. John's, 144
Tours, 146
Ulm or early green curled,

144

,, ,, Victoria, 147

„ ,, yellow curled or golden,

147

Scandix cerefolium, 240
Scolymus hispanicus, 704
Scorzonera, French, 646
„ hispanica, 645

„ picroides, 646

Scurvy-grass, 646
Sea-kale, 647

,, market-garden culture, 651
,, on the coast, 650
Shallot, 654

„ Jersey, 655
„ „ or false, 655

„ „ true, 654

Sinapis alba, 446
Sium Sisarum, 656
Sktrret, 656

Solarium Melongena, 289
„ nigrum, 450
„ ovigerum, 294
„ tuberosum, 550
Sorrel, 657

,, common, 657

,, French broad-leaved, 658

„ lettuce-leaved, 659

INDEX

803

Sorrel, Maiden, 659

„ O. Blonde de Sarcelles, 659
„ round-leaved, 659
„ " white large-leaved, 658
,, wood, 660

„ Deppe's, 660
Soy Bean, 66 1

„ „ common yellow, 661
„ „ Etampes yellow, 662
„ „ Podolian, 662
„ ,, very early brown-seeded, 662
Spearmint, Mint or, 436
Spinach, 662

„ Catillon long-standing, 670
„ common, 665
„ culture for market, 664
„' Dutch, large, 666

„ roimd-seeded, round-
leaved, 666

„ Flanders round-seeded, 667
„ late-standing, 669
„ lettuce-leaved, 668
„ long-standing or long-seeding,

669

„ New Zealand, 670
„ round-seeded, 666
„ Savoy-leaved or curled, 669
„ summer, 663
„ „ Victoria dark green, 668,

669

„ Viroflay giant, 666
„ winter or large prickly, 665
Spinacia glabra, 666
„ oleracea, 662
„ spinosa, 665
Squash, bush, Geneva, 332

„ Nice, 332
„ chestnut, 330
„ early bush or summer crook-necked,

332, 333

„ Hubbard, 321, 322
„ ,-, golden, 320

„ large warted Portugal, 323
„ Maple, Carpet-bag Gourd or, 326
„ Marble-head, 322
„ Marrow, Boston, 321
„ „ Ohio or Californian, 322

„ „ warted, 320

„ musk, Mirepoix, 327
„ Neapolitan or early carpet-bag, 327
„ olive, 322
,, Patagonian, 330, 331
„ Valencia, 325
,, Valparaiso, 320, 321
Stachys tuberifera, 671
Strawberry, Admiral Dundas, 697
„ Albany, 680

„ Alpine Belle de Meaux, 674, 675
„ „ Berger, 676

„ „ bush, red, 675

Janus, 675
red, 673, 674
„ ,, Duru, 675

„ white, 674
Barnes's white, 681
Belle Bordelaise, 677
„ de Cours, 681
„ „ Paris, 697

Strawberry, Black Prince, 697

British Queen, 68 1
„ Carolina superba, 682

„ Centenary, 682, 683

Chili, 678

„ Commander, 697
„ common Hautbois or Musky,

677

„ Comte de Paris, 697
„ Crescent seedling, 683

Docteur Morere, 683
Veillard, 684

Dr. Hogg, 697
„ „ Nicaise, 697, 698

„ Duke of Edinburgh, 698
„ „ „ Malakoff, 684

,, ,, ,, Montrose, 698

„ Edouard Lefort, 684, 685
,, Eleanor, 698

Elisa, 698

,, Elton improved, 698
„ Fontenay early small, 673
„ General Chanzy, 685, 686

„ Gloire de Zuidwyck, 699
„ Hautbois, 677
„ Hohenzollern, 699
„ Jeanne d? Arc, 702
„ Jucunda, 685, 686
„ June Peach, 690, 691
„ Kaiser Nikolas von Russland,

699

„ Keen's seedling, 699

„ King of the Earlies, 691, 692

„ Koenig Albert, 699

„ La Chalonnaise, 699
„ „ Constante, 685, 686

„ , „ Grosse Sucree, 699
„ „ Productive, 703

„ Latest-of-All, 699
,, Laxton's Noble, 690

„ Leader, 700
„ LetCzar, 686, 687
„ Louis Gauthier, 687
„ „ Vilmorin, 688

„ Lucas, 688
„ Madame Mestt, 688, 689
„ Marguerite, 689
„ May Queen, 689, 690
„ Montreuil, 673

Napoleon II., 690

Perpetual Meudonnaise, 676

Petit Pierre, 700

Pine-Apple, 679

President Carnot, 690

Princess Dogmar, 700
,, Roy ale, 691

Richard Gilbert, 692

Royal Sovereign, 693

Sabreur, 692, 693

Saint- Antoine de Padoue, 702

scarlet Virginia, 678

Schone Anhalterin, 676

Sensation, 693, 694

Sharpless, 694

Sir Chas. Napier, 700
,, Harry, 700
„ Joseph Paxton, 694

Souvenir de Bossuet, 695

804

INDEX

Strawberry, St. Joseph, 701
The Captain, 697
Van Guard, 680, 68 1
Vicomtesse Hencart de Thury,

696

Victoria, 696
wild or wood, 672

„ short-runnered, 678
Wonderful or Myatt's Prolific,

696
Strawberries-, 671

„ hybrid, 679

Succory or Chicory, 244
Sunroot, 758
Swede, Bredstone, the, 167

or Turnip, Budlong's white im-
proved, 167
,, white, 167
Swiss Chard, Leal Beet or, 347
„ „ or Seakale Beet, 348

„ silvery, 349
red-stalked, or Chilian Beet,

350

„ ,, white curled, 349
Synchytrium endobioticum, 778

Tanacetum vulgare, 704

Tansy, 704

Tare, One-flowered, or Auvergne Lentil,

360

Tarragon, 705
Tetragonia expansa, 670
Thistle, golden, 478, 704, 705
Thyme, common, 706. 707
Thymus vulgaris, 707
Tomato, apple-shaped, purple or Acme, 725

red, 726

„ „ „ or Hathaway s

Excelsior, 723
„ Atlantic Prize, 718
Beauty, 728
Belle de Leuville, 728

,, of Massey, 716
„ Blenheim, Orange, 728
„ Champion, 719

,, purple, 719

,, scarlet, 719

„ Chemin, early, 7i8x
„ „ red, early, 720

„ Cherry, 727, 728
„ Earliana, 728
„ early large red or Powell's early,

7i5

„ „ Mayflower, 728

„ „ Optimus, 728

„ Golden Queen, 723

„ Trophy, 728
„ Honor Bright, 728
„ Jaune Petite, 728
,, King Humbert, 725, 727
„ large red, 715
„ ,, yellow, 728

„ Laxton's Open-air, 717, 718

Marvel of the Market, 719
„ Mikado, purple, 722

Tomato, Mikado, scarlet, 722, 723
„ or Love Apple, 707
„ Peach, 729

„ Pear-shaped or Fig, 726, 727
„ „ yellow, 729

„ Perfection, 720, 721
„ Red Currant, 727

,, early dwarf, 715
round yellow, 725
„ scarlet Ponderosa, 722, 724
„ „ Turk's Cap, 729

„ Stone, 729

„ Strawberry or small white Mexi-
can or Barbadoes Gooseberry,

729

„ tree, 716
„ ,, upright large red, 716

Trophy, 721, 722
Tomatoes, black spot in, 780
„ ,, stripe of, 781

„ defoliating, 775
„ disease and its prevention, 713,

780, 781
for winter, 774
light house for, 710
market-garden culture, 714
scalding of, 781
sleeping disease of, 781
under glass, 710
without manure, 711
Tragopogon porrifolius, 642
Trapa natans, 753
Tropaeolum majus, 448
„ minus, 449

,, tuberosum, 449

Turnip, 730

„ Auvergne early red-top flat, 748

„ late, 748

Blackstone Chirk Castle, 743, 744
„ Briollay, long, 749
„ Dutch garden, early white flat, 740
„ „ yellow, 744, 745

„ early red-top flat garden, 741
„ ,, stone or stubble, 746
„ Epernay white round, 743
„ Finland, yellow, 745, 746

Fly, 782

„ forcing half-long white, 734
„ Freneuse, 736
„ Globe purple-top white, 743
„ „ strap-leaved white, 747

„ Jersey Lily or early Six-weeks', 74«
„ Kashmir, scarlet, 743
„ Limousin, 749
„ long black, 737
„ „ white Meaux, 745
yellow, 738

„ Maltese yellow or golden, 745
„ Milan white, 742
„ Montmagny yellow flat purple-top,

744

„ Morigny gray, 737
„ Norfolk white or Cornish white,

„ or Swede, Budlong's white im-
proved, 167
,, Orange Jelly, 746
„ strap-leaved Milan purple-top, 74*

INDEX

805

Turnip, strap-leavedred-top American Stone,

741
„ „ white American stone,

740

„ Swedish, early flat yellow, 170
„ purple-top, 167
„ „ „ smooth, 168

„ „ „ „ short-leaved,

167

„ „ „ strap-leaved, 168

„ ,, oval, 169

„ „ ,, Monarch, Tankard,

or Elephant, 170
„ „ turnip-rooted cabbage or,

166

„ „ white, 167

„ „ yellow, purple-top, 168

„ Tankard, long green, 739

„ red, 739
„ Teltow, 736
„ Vertus Croissy or round-leaved,

742
„ „ half-long red-fop, 735

„ or Jersey half-long white,

735
„ „ white carrot-shaped or

pointed, 734

„ Viarmes red-top, 736
„ white carrot-shaped, 735
„ winter hardy white, 736, 737
„ yellow-fleshed, 775
Turnips, culture in market-gardens, 733
,, diseases, 782
„ long varieties, 734
„ round or flat varieties, 740
soil for, 733

U

W

Water Chestnut, 753, 754
>» » fruit of, 754

»> it Cress, 259

„ improved brown-leaved, 261, 262
„ Melon, 432
„ ,, black-seeded, 434

„ „ Citron, 435

„ „ Cuban Queen, 435

„ „ dark icing, 436

,, „ early Rodosto, 433

very early, 433
» »» „ Russian, 433

„ „ Excelsior, 435

„ ,, Florida Favourite, 435

„ Gipsy, 435
„ ,. Ice Cream or Peerless, 436

icing, Ice-rind,

berry, 436
Mountain or

or straw-

Mountain

Unicorn -plant, 752

Sweet, 436

„ „ Mountain Sprout, 436

„ „ orange, 436

„ „ Rattlesnake, 436

„ ,, red-seeded, 435

» ,, „ or • red-fleshed,

434

„ ,, round light icing, Ice-rind,

strawberry, 436

„ „ Seikon, 434

„ very early, 434

„ „ Spanish, 435

,, ,, Sweetheart, 436

Winter Greens, purple or tall purple Kale,

1 60

Witloof, or large Brussels Chicory, 247
Wood Sorrel, 660

,, „ Deppe's, 660

Woodruff, 754
Wormwood, 754, 755

Valerian, African, 753

Valerianella olitoria, 251

Vegetable Diseases, 776, etc.
„ Marrow, 329
„ „ Italian, 331, 332

M », long yellow, 330

Vetch, Chickling, 243

Yam, Chinese, 755, 756

Zea Mais, 400

fritued by Hazeil, Watson £ Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England.

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