a ioqeowrerres irre . patie SSRs eA el ee ee: : Se easter = SESS = = TF ES SS a — es Se Cee i: ——— ees ee) ee <= setae oat 9 SS Stee! 22 eS = = = SSS = —— SS = = ae = : = <= arn canara ees ——— een nee esis ee ———— ae = pemetieeaesie semen : ——— —— 4 ?, es) SS —S Sepa —== ae arene ee : = = eae = — —— > wertene om a —l sa ~ “ ~— ———— ee =e —————— = i St SS =i i seetsees sae he =< nee <= SS ak —— eee a See Say a Se Z SS eno re Se sa meen nme So eerie Se eee edna sarees 7 SSiinins ap reins =< Sis Seen en Somos Sn pet etme) Se Sass Sep Sass _ “ — ~, eal 4 —— — = Roots « a Seer ee - — Ee seafeene fone sittin ae eh eo eae SER ak ASS ee ee ities Ms ots SSS : Soames one a — au ty — Senener eee - Se = * Seas = Se Sai ene Sa A = — oe eneee een dPteree eee - a sss OE — — ~~ ee ea eee ee nee ere nares nanemmens menace resanensenems tir. s —_heweesemernannee ete ~ = SS eo NS renee aes Sl = == SS ee ; er = oe - poms 000co- — ne er eer anneal ee ene ae ~ rar = ——— “ ST A TN I To TT TT TTT ee ae — a — ey a TTT TT I AS I TT AT IIT TT Ban nen ee -nete —s = tea =A : oo re a = Soret - SS aaa ES = = = tio nae a EE ESS gejene pong eeertepeoe nies oe = bene ee ~— TT TT NE tee meen < = = x errr ener earner nee cose hh pa rereenmenen =. SSS Se : : = SESECLUERTTRULER ERATE EEE city HT diiaattlll nn y Seer =e = ne iw $ HUT t i SS ee A % Paes { SHEE Ee Link Sees. cao St ne rn cer eet er ert eet ae we cslzect Coed \, ae a wae | of 24 “yf S5~ aes wt Senistte. ac ) “A FS ee. tes Ty 2 ee | | UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. | oe. 4 a rol" 7 te, sti a ‘ ay " a he ay , lad te a ae a , Pa. tb AN mi - / Yj Y YY SI . = 3 a Seat Eas S Bes = 6 see Ota Sr :3 ra ae Ene one os Ba Sosa s oe o 3) on Anite, Boe Mame MiG SOS moe WMeort o-— o = Ds 5 SAnekQos4 Bens S0 — De Ls a Uys oS ye Ls "Ye oo@2 : S WX ~@ SOs 4 OS i AM iy MmMovnes Eg fC oe = ES o% 2. Wem Saas SoszoSAos sess nen otens r 22 we Uwe we . ~~ aged . - rs y)) ovoeos5oo0o0% y) SSANASSO y BRA: Sees py, Wie Se fs. eg ee Schoss Bogen Augen. Zaplen. ss * Bows,” * Buds, “Spurs VINE-DRESSER'S MANUAL, AN Allustrated Creatise ON VINEYARDS AND WINE-MAKING. BY CHARLES REEMELIN, OF OHTO: i . eee PONE TNE 9 P a ‘ en _ NHW YORK: Oy My SAR TON: & COM PAM YY, NO. 152 FULTON STREET. 1855. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, By CHARLES REEMELIN, In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of Ohio. Pa ae ee ae CONTENTS. PAGE Tntroduction, ...... apehnte ta me mare Se er ae SAE Renee Names of the various parts of which the Vine is composed,...... 9 Location and Soil, .cciscis secs wees s sigherk she dereiaia On he wae bess 14 Preparation of the Ground, .. sisssecscseasciscece es sciee esa 19 How to mark out a Vineyard, and get it ready for the Vines,.... 25 The Propagation and Multiplication of Vines, and how to Plant Acai 2) ab pa od cradle! Gigs woe ONS SaaS ead What species of Grapevine shall we cultivate? ..... Seer ee 37 Treatment of a young Vineyard the first three years, .......... 41 Ear Btakeh ios 2 sii «cw oes beds wialetews «50 aes Bidivisieie alae oe 48 Trimming young bearing Vines in the fourth year, ............ 55 Es HERG GE BOWS 6 gic sod aia. vdarelae Rald's chins wseareesaestns 61 On Trimming generally,......... et oie oip nip ara wicls owas oa eialetaietere 64 How to cultivate the soil of a Vineyard, ........-.se00. seleare OE (EAMES ORY VECIIBER io. < pos oes hedtin ee wk Ree soe eae eee eis a arse 73 Ree reee Pr ee ds Van eee nies kam iD scion Be Savanna 77 Ree CEUN Ge TNE MAAN CE bial s s.ucls seme wies nd de weeew ans bndimnees. es 82 MMGECE es sc cha ka.cles dines etind beede dale tA asec ees «edna 86 Diseases to which Grapevines are subject, .......escececcecees 88 NMP MNBAMEIENS ees SS ata a a disci k Re aS wid Oh Awe Whee Sica el Ow wre 89 Mashing the Grapes, ..... graneal siaiwie e's acetone aie wiaerel tonal cielo 89 |. A ne a ere Pe ee Treatment of the Wine, eeoseseeeoeseeeaeseseeeneseeoeeeeoeee 98 ba - - ; 7 : ° = ag : Ging e ae . 4 weridey stored: =. 1 4 4 wi Hats “na ana ‘ie CHa: oe Thai eget ag “oe ae os ; A + a ee a is . ne ve Rie hengantt, oe , = ; ah ae un 7 ¢ ih Wen i) ba te ie re . Th ae tonianigbanved ve ot a. era ly e's oy WANE GEV CN were. omg fA 2a 4, , Pa oT 7 tay wartpoiy pie) ee nabane ing ee | bak rk ar 2» boat | Shy ae ists a7 a oy wa. on Hid ee iv. ham t patty tal ah 53 aeiat Roe wis Deve wh puri i: rT J +e . a save ' \ G ; . j 4 ieee rey i. 2 nse eng Siyaunt aa |” ‘ . ee ere ne | Vetus bs 4enkeun sneha nin eee i Hie pe \ ie a Se eica VaAkii nck pended eee ny Hg yas dhs od ems a ¢? a - Y 4a pes S hn w ¢ *-t ale bade s © HU 8 Meee Oe ee oe ie eee P , é m *% a7 - RS =—— - - « @ i PY. + die eer d + O00 oo 44m st own 0 6m to « RRR OR ae eH? y j ‘ a4 aa koi ‘ais teed ae W a + 4 Sa, INTRODUCTION. THE object of these pages is to furnish to such as have no opportunity to learn the Vintners’ business practically, easily comprehended and reliable instruc- tions, so that even the most inexperienced may, with this book in his hand, start, plant, perfect and culti- vate a vineyard, and make good, wholesome wine. The writer is himself a practical vintner, owns vine- yards, has worked and does work in them. He gives to the reader the knowledge derived from reading, and also through a somewhat extended intercourse with vintners from various countries, as well as his own actual observation in various parts of the United States and Hurope. | His object is not to make money. He has long felt that the United States need, as an important element of its horticultural economy, the domestication of the grape, and that, in the progress of time, the use of wine as food must necessarily be a part of the social enjoyments of our people. He is often asked in private conversation, especially while travelling, various questions about vineyards. (7) 8 INTRODUCTION. Thus to answer is very tedious. He concluded, there- fore, to write this little book, which, being sold cheap, might be in the hands of nearly everybody, and thus, at little cost, give to all who wish it tbe desired in- formation. The writer trusts that it will be received as an humble contribution to a subject, which cer- tainly is receiving, as it deserves, very general attention. THE AUTHOR. Che Vine-Dresser’s Atanual. NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS OF WHICH THE VINE IS COMPOSED. I pEEM a knowledge of these various parts, and their names, of much consequence to a correct under- standing of the whole subject, and hence will at once describe and name them. England has no vineyards, and therefore the techni- cal names I shall give are, in general, mere trans- lations of similar words, which in German have an accepted meaning with reference to Grapevines. I give, also, the German in every case, as this may facili- tate the intercourse between Americans who plant vineyards and the German vineyard men. | The cut, Fig. 1, represents the various parts of a full- grown grape vine, which are severally numbered. The reader should familiarize himself with them by frequent reference. (9) 10 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. The Grapevine (Weinstock) is properly divided into two classes: I. That below the surface of the ground. II. That above the ground. In the ground are: The “ Stem,” (Stamm,) marked No. 1, is either the result of the planted cutting or of a grapevine root. No. 2 is the “ Foot,” (Fuss,) or lowest part of the stem, out of which grow, in an obliquely downward direction, those important roots called ‘ foot-roots,” which, if they spread and grow well, are the chief basis of the whole vine, and without which it can- not be truly healthy. These foot-roots are also marked 2. From the other buds upon the “Stem,” arise the “« Side roots,” (Seitenwurzeln;) they grow above the foot, and draw their nourishment like the “ot roots,” (Fusswurzeln,) through roots almost as fine as hair, which spring from the main roots. They are marked 8. The “Surface Roots,” (Tag Wurzeln,) which grow out of the head of the stem, nearly parallel with the surface, and also out of those buds which are about six inches below the surface of the ground. They are marked 4. Above the ground are: Marked 5, the “‘ Head,” (Kopf,) or the upper part of the “Stem,” out of which grow the first and second NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS. 11 year those first young twigs, from which are ultimately formed the vines. Marked No. 6 are the “ Thighs,” (Schenkel,) of the ‘“ Vine Stock,” or if the reader likes it better, simply, the, Vine. | Marked No. 7 is the “ Bearing Wood,” (Tragbare Holz,) which grows upon and out of the “thighs,” “bows” and spurs, and which is to form the bows and spurs for the next season. Marked No. 8 are those branches which even after the “ thighs” are once formed, are continually growing out of the “head,” and often even protrude from the main stem below the surface, called the “Ground Shoots,” (Boden Holz.) Marked No. 9 are those branches which grow from the joints or buds in the “thighs,” and which are trimmed down to two or three buds in the fall or spring following their growth, and are called “ Spurs,” (Zapfen.) Marked No. 10 are those branches immediately above the “thighs,” which are early in spring trimmed down to six or eight, or even ten buds, and from which the main product of grapes is expected. During that year they are called ‘ Bow-branches,” (Bogenschoss,) or simply “ Bows,” (Bogen,) as they are bent artificially into bows, and so tied to the stake or post in the spring. 12 TIE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. Marked No. 11 are the “ Buds,” or “ Hyes” at the joints, which if round and perfect, and hence promising a good harvest, are called “ Fruct Duds,” (Frucht Augen,) and if pointed and meagre—‘* Wood Buds,” (Holz Augen.) Out of the “buds” grow “ Shoots,” (Ruthen,) which, when green, are tied up to the stake, and when matured are called “* Wood.” From the ‘ Wood” grow the ‘ Leaves,” which afford the requisite shade, and perform an all-important part in the nourishment of the vine and in the growth and ripening of the fruit. Very near the buds spring forth those smaller branches, which [I will call “twigs,” which in literal translation of the German I might call “‘cross-teeth,” (Aber Zahn.) Immediately opposite to the ‘ Leaves,” grow out of and where there are no the same buds the “ Grapes” grapes there will be found those little fibrous twigs called “ Zendrils,” which are a convenient appendage to the grapevine; with them they twine themselves to objects near them, maintaining thereby their fruit and branches above ground, even in a wild state—an indication which practical vine-dressers have not failed to follow. Very often, too, after the grape has par- tially grown, the fruit gradually disappears, or “ runs ) out,” into these little “cord-twigs,” or tendrils, and through this operation very often a crop very promis- al 71) NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS. 13 ing in the earlier portions of spring is much dimin- ished. Practical vine-dressers therefore smile at en- thusiasts, who count their grapes before this danger is past. These cord-twigs which thus spring from buds, which should bear grapes, are in German called Gabelein, “forks.” I name them ‘ Zendrils.” The fruit stalk comprising the centre axis with its branches, or the part of the cluster which remains after removing the berries, is called the “ Comb.” Grapes which are “close berried” are best. The berries contain, when ripe, saccharine matter, (never yet brought to crystallization,) water, much coloring matter, and also substances more or less pe- culiar to taste and smell, according to the kind of grape and the season. The saccharine matter is the great basis of the fer- mentation, and therefore of the quality of the wine. The taste peculiar to each kind of grape arises from the inside coating of the skin of the berry, a matter easily tried by chewing and sucking this skin after the pulp is squeezed out. The peculiar smell also springs from substances immediately connected therewith, and the reason why wine which passes through its first fermentation before the juice is pressed from the crushed grape, possesses the taste and smell peculiar to each grape in a greater degree, must be sought in the fact, that through this process the saccharine slime 14 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. is better dissolved, and because then the fermentation absorbs and acts more fully upon those peculiar sub- stances which adhere to the skin. The “ coloring matter” lies in the inside of the skin, and is easily developed, but much modified through the subsequent fermentation in the cellar, and wine treated as it is commonly in the United States, may eventually be colorless, as the coloring matter has no lasting effect, unless the fermentation takes place before pressing out the juice. Within the berry are the “ Pulp,” and the “ Kernel.” I have thus named all I deem essential, and the reader and myself will, I trust, hereafter better under- stand each other. LOCATION AND SOIL. THE best location, if it is desired to produce good wine, is the southern exposure of a hill or hillock. There the vines get the proper sunshine, and are also properly protected against storms, especially the north and north-east winds. South. being careful to get them into perfectly straight rows, and one foot each way from the head. This method and the trellis described below, are the two which I would recommend as the best, and are those which I have adopted. The trellis, however, is better adapted to the growing of table grapes than grapes for wine. A method very much practiced in the vicinity of Cincinnati, is to have a single stake with one ‘ bow” and one “spur ;” the spur being trimmed down to two or three buds, the shoots from which furnish the spur and bow for the next year. See Fig. 13. The general principles laid down for pruning on two stakes may be easily modified and applied to this and other methods. Where one thigh is carried, with one “bow” and two or three spurs, it is customary to have three stakes “ VINEYARD STAKES.” 51 to each vine—one about six feet above ground, just at the head, to which the bow is fastened, and two others about four feet long above ground, and a foot each way north and south from it. The prevailing mode in the Palatinate along the Rhine, is beginning to be largely adopted in the United States. 52 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. This cut, Fig. 14, represents several modes of train- ing upon trellises. As they are all reducible to the same general principles of trimming, the particular — shape is unimportant. | a Represents the top cross piece sixteen feet long and five feet above the ground. b Represents cross piece of same length and two feet above ground. A. vineyard thus staked out, with the method of trimming adopted in these pages, I regard as decidedly the best. It may be the most expensive at first, but it must eventually be adopted generally in the United States, because it will suit more localities than any other. The easiest way to put vineyard stakes into the ground is to have a good sound, tough piece of oak wood, as described in a former chapter for putting in cuttings, say four feet long, three inches through at the upper end, tapering toward the lower end, and supplied with a heavy iron socket about eighteen inches long. With this holes are punched into the ground, at the proper places, about eighteen inches deep for the long, heavy stakes, and about ten to twelve inches for the shorter and lighter ones, and into . these holes the stakes are inserted, having been pre- viously sharpened. Through this method few or no roots are injured. Charring the ends of the stakes is “VINEYARD STAKES.” 58 an excellent preservative, and I have heard the refuse oil purchased at gas-works also favorably spoken of. The stakes should be well rammed in, and fastened by punching the earth to them at the surface of the ground. Every spring they should be carefully re- fastened, after being straightened up, and examined to see whether the part in the ground is sound yet. Those of which it may be feared that they will not last through the season, had better be taken out and reset by putting the sound end into the ground, or replaced by new ones. Nothing is more annoying and injuri- ous than to have a whole lot of vines blown down after every heavy shower. The plan of setting stakes in a vineyard, sprung, doubtless, from the observation made, that a grape- vine, and especially its fruit, is very apt to get injured if left to the mercy of the winds and rain, and dragged. about in the mud. The fruit by being elevated from the ground is less subject to the depredations of insects and rabbits, as well as less liable to rot and other diseases. I have already indicated that one great object is also so to set off the vine, with its foliage, &ec., as to admit, according to the particular manner of training, the proper effects of sun and atmosphere. A vineyard badly and slovenly staked out will be an eye-sore to a good vintner, even at a distance ; while, on the other hand, one well and artistically 54 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. staked out, will gladden the eye of every one that secs it. A slovenly vintner is certain to be detected in this very point, and I want no better evidence of a good vintner than to see him particularly nice in staking out his vineyard. What system of trimming to adopt for the vines is oftener a matter of fancy than of actual propriety. I have, in this chapter, treated of various methods; in the next I shall particularly describe that which, in my opinion, deserves universal adoption. The reader can, from the cuts given in this and the following chapter, find a safe guide, whether he should choose the method recommended by me, or any other. I do not think it necessary to describe these others more fully, because I am satisfied that any intelligent reader can, if he will but read carefully this and the next chapter, and if he will apply the general rules laid down practically, vary the trim of his vineyard to suit the particular locality, or fancy, as the case may be. I wish to avoid, also, if possible, perplexing the reader, and I therefore indicate to him the method which my own experience points out as the best. At the same time, I have also named other methods, upon which it may be well to “experiment,” after the reader shall have had some ex- perience in vine-dressing. TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES. 55 TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES IN THE FOURTH YEAR. Tuts branch of a Vine-dresser’s labors, whether for young or old vines, being an interference with, and an artificial regulation of, nature, requires more of his skill, judgment, and neatness, than any other. Its ob- ject is two-fold: Ist. To secure each summer a proper amount of ma- ture bearing-wood for the next and subsequent years, and by thus concentrating upon particular parts of the vine all its fructifying powers, preserve it in a healthy, vigorous condition. 2d. To improve the quality of the fruit, whether intended for the table or for the making of wine. The instruction upon this subject would best be given with the grapevine before us. We will en- deavor to supply this by cuts, and if the reader will only, with this book in hand, himself learn practically how to trim his grapevine, we have strong assurance that, in a very few seasons, he will be a successful trimmer. An opinion is prevalent, which I must notice very briefly. It is that grapevines should not be trimmed at all. This opinion springs from that superficial notion, that the experience of Huropean vine-dressers is of little consequence here, and that the treatment of 56 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. American vines on American soil should be entirely different. I can only say, that wild grapes may be seen in our woods, and in Asia even at this day, and by comparing with them the cultivated grape, this error will readily be discarded. Perseverance through centuries has improved the grape to what itis. The experience of Kuropean vine-dressers is that of their predecessors, the Asiatics, as may be learned even out of the Bible, modified, to be sure, but modified with reason and judgment, as we should again modify. The writer of this has seen hundreds of acres of vineyards in this country, and he would unhesitatingly say, that the best vineyards,—not. for a season or two, but for ten (and no doubt fifty) years,—are those which are in the hands of such vine-dressers as follow carefully, and systematically, the most approved European modes of trimming. I do not mean, thereby, such as follow blindly and mechanically, but such as, having studied and examined European practice, have adapted it to their own locality and circumstances, being able to un- derstand its principles and apply them. We will endeavor to make the matter as plain as possible, both in this chapter as in those that follow upon this subject. The reader will remember, that if the grapevine has been properly taken care of and trimmed, it will in the spring of the fourth year pre- sent the following appearance: TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES. 57 Each “spur” intended for a thigh” should be not less than six nor more than ten inches long, leaving at least two and not more than three joints and buds upon it. The head will be well formed and of good size, and care will have been taken to get the thighs to grow out of the sides of the head rather than its centre. Fie. 15. After trimming the fourth year, being ready for bearing. From the buds marked 1, 2, 3, on each thigh, will, during summer, grow shoots. Those upon 1 and 2 should be carefully tied up to the stake. The shoots 3* 58 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. growing out of 8, or which may grow out of the head, should, after two leaves. have formed upon them, be pinched off above and beyond the two leaves. Upon all these shoots at the joints, little twigs or lat- teral branches, marked a in Fig. 16, grow in the early part of summer. Fra. 16. These must all be removed by hand just above the first small leaf where it is marked in the cut. The leaves at the junction of the latterals with the branch should be carefully preserved, however. This tends to ripen the branch into good sound bearing wood, for if these laterals were not removed, it would weaken the intended bearing wood the next TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES. 59 season. The vine will in the fall, after the leaves shall have fallen off, if thus trimmed, look thus: Fic. 17. In the fall of the fourth year. Here, then, are two branches upon each spur or thigh for bearing wood. One such would really be enough, but two are trained, first, to have a spare one in case of accident or loss, and for a spur for the season following, and second, to leave sufficient wood and /eaves upon the vine, so as not to restrain its growth too much. ‘It 1s, as already stated, not desirable to have the bearing wood too rank, which would surely be the case if the vine were trimmed too close during summer. There 60 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. are, also, both upon the head and the thighs, small shoots with one bud each, which are left there to the length above pointed out, so as to keep the joint alive for future use, and to prevent its closing by becoming gnarled over. The next point is how to trim such a vine during the winter or spring following. The rule is to cut the Fie. 18, In the Spring of the fifth year after trimming. thriftiest, and if possible the upper branch a, down to from five to eight buds or joints for the bows, and if the lower branch remain, to trim it down, leaving one bud or joint for spurs, and to cut all the remaining branches HOW TO BEND THE BOWS. 61 away, close to the joint of the thigh, not injuring, how- ever, the bud, which may be upon the thigh itself or upon the head. The trimmed vine will resemble Fig. 18. The vine may now be said to have reached the dig- nity of an adult, being ready for the duties of its use- ful life. Its pruning and treatment during the following sum- mer and winter, will be described in another chapter. HOW TO BEND THE BOWS. BeFoRE entering more fully into detail about trim- ming, it may be well to describe the manner of making bows. While the hoeing and ploughing may be entrusted to any laborer having a general idea of work, so he be one not apt to shirk work, or slur it over, it is differ- ent with bow-making. This requires much practice and skill, or else much damage will be done, by break- ing the branches. The bows should be picked before the buds swell, or else many of them will be stripped off by even a careful workman—the great point being to have them as round as possible, and all breaks and sharp bends should be carefully avoided. Morning is the best time, 62 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. because the vines then bend easy. In the afternoon they are dryer, and hence more apt to break. Taking the end of the vine in one hand and the part immedi- ately following the “thigh,” in the other, and while passing the vine round with the one hand, pressing it Fie. 19. Tying the Vines to the Stakes, into form by following it out from joint to jot with the thumb of the other hand, and then tying the end with a willow, is the usual mode. The object of bending the vine into a bow, 1s to equalize the sap to all the buds, as otherwise the sap HOW TO BEND THE BOWS. 63 would flow too muchto the top. Half bows, in half circles, are also frequently adopted, and answer a good purpose. In connection herewith, I would recommend to every person owning land, especially where it is intended to have a vineyard, to plant out a wilfow patch. They need little or no cultivation. Simply pushing twigs about two feet long, fifteen inches into the ground, and with only two or three inches sticking out of the ground, similar to grapevines, about five feet apart, (the wetter the ground the better,) is all that is re- quired for starting them. After they have grown, they should be trimmed back pretty close to the stump, annually; and fifty willow bushes will yield enough for all the purposes of an acre of yineyard, and leave some for basket-making and other purposes about a farm. The yellow basket willow is the best, though it is well to have a few bushes of the long black willow, as they are the best for sale. Slips may now be had for little or nothing, in the neighborhood of Cincinnat ; and let me add, that willow-planting pays well, as basket-makers are getting numerous, and pay a good price. As soon as the stakes are driven in, the bows must be tied to them; but not helter skelter assome do. The more careful the bows and branches are fastened, the 3* 64 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. easier is the subsequent labor of summer trimming, which will be more fully explained in another chapter. It generally happens, that the vintners are rather late in getting the vine to the stake, and in performing this, the last labor of spring. This done, the vintner feels much lighter, as the buds are by that time more or less forward. The person entrusted with this labor should therefore be more than usually careful, or else he will break offthe main buds and do irreparable injury. Good, strong willow twigs should be used for this work. But mark this:—do not tie the vine so tight as to stop the flow of the sap and to check the after- erowth of the thigh and bearing branch. I have known vines to be sadly girdled by too tight tying. Do not tie the end of the bow too tight to the thigh, as otherwise the sap may be completely stopped and the bow deprived of proper nourishment. I need not add, that too loose tying is also to be avoided. ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. THIS important labor, whether for young or old vines, should be done early—if possible before the first of March—at any rate before.the sap begins to flow ;_ be- cause through late trimmings much sap is lost, and in ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 65 consequence thereof the vine is apt to become sickly, and to decay even. It would be well if our vintners would use all the pleasant days through the winter for this purpose; but trimming éoo early is not to be recommended. We have, in the United States, very warm days during autumn, in which the sap is apt to rise in the vines, enough to swell some of the best buds. Such buds, if the vines were trimmed in the fall, would be sure to be frosted during winter. The outermost buds are also lable to dry out; and hence, I would designate February as the best time for trimming grapevines. Before trimming, it is proper to remove the earth from around the head, so as to expose for three or four inches the “stem.” This is necessary, so that the “trimmer” may, by examining the thickness of the “stem,” have a safe guide as to the quantity of bearing wood to be left to the vine. This the German vintners call “loading the vine heavy or light,” “‘ viel oder wenig aufladen.” The “surface roots” growing annually out of the head, are now cut away, so as. to leave the head nice and clean of weeds, sprouts and roots. But I must here remark, that I doubt the propriety of going down to the third joint on the “stem,” below the “head,” and there cutting off the “roots.” Many vintners do this, for the purpose of furthering the growth of the ‘ foot-roots.” I incline to the opinion 66 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. that the practice was adopted, because it accidentally proved successful from some local cause; and I can well imagine peculiar circumstances under which the practice may be right; but, as a general rule, I would warn against it. Ihave taken up many grapevines, from five to ten years old, and I can say, from practical experience, that those vines were thriftiest upon whose “stem” not only the ‘ foot-roots,” but also the “ side- roots,” were in good condition ; and this is almost cer- tain to be the case if the ground has been spaded up and turned over deep enough. In “trimming” grapevines, due regard must be had to the species of the grapevine—the soil—the exposure—the age—the strength—the fertility of the soil—and last, though not least, the possible injuries likely to happen to a vine, from storms or accidental mistakes of the vintner himself. In this labor Frank- lin’s motto should be ever present: “‘ What is fit to be done at all, is fit to be well done.” Great care and nice judement are requisite, and no bungler has any business in a vineyard. The object of trimming is to remove all superfluous wood, and thereby strengthen the vine, so as to render it long-lived, and capable of bearing and ripening the proper quantity of grapes. Vines which have a tendency to generate much wood, as all American vines have, should be “loaded” heavy ; ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 67 that is, more bearing wood should be left. The better, or rather heavier the soil, the greater the load the vines will bear. In light, warm soils, vines should be load- ed very lightly. Young vines, up to the sixth year, Fie. 20. ———— & ———* \)bearing wood N@ I. bearing wood cae 9 ASS) wood NO 2. wood for Spur ==wood for Spur should be trimmed close, it being true of grapevines, as of our youth, “that early curbing is a guaranty of a healthy, mature age.” Old vines should be dealt with very gently. Then they may give little, but good, 68 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. wholesome wine. Frosted vines, or such as have been injured by hail, or other accidents, must be trimmed back, so as to provide for ‘new growth” in every in- jured part. The preceding cut, Fig. 20, represents a grapevine as it is late in the fall, when a good vintner has attended to it during the preceding summer. The reader will see, that the vine has two vineyard stakes, say about two feet apart, and that the vine has two “Thighs,” which is as much as any vine should be asked to keep up. At the end of the “Thighs” are the “‘ Bows,” which were the “chief bearing wood” of the season previous. At the first joint above the “Thigh,” Bearing Wood No. 1 is perceived. This was left, by the good vintner, to be trimmed down to six or eight joints, or buds, and to form from it the Bow, or Chief Bearing Wood, for the ensuing summer, The reader will also see Bearing Wood No. 2, which grew out a “Spur,” left upon each thigh the spring previous. This Bearing Wood, No. 2, is trimmed down to two joints, and will form the chief spur for this season. Out of this spur it is intended to train the Bearing Wood No. 1, for the succeeding year, say in 1855 for 1856, of which more hereafter. The reader will also perceive a shoot marked ‘“‘ Wood for Spur,” which should be trimmed down to one joint, or bud, so as to ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 69 have an extra spur ready if accidentally it should be needed, for renovating the vine with new Bearing Wood. The reader will also perceive two “Ground Shoots.” One of these must be cut away, while one Fia. 21, of them had better be trimmed down to three or four joints, so as to have it ready, in case either one of the thighs should be broken off. Such a ground shoot 70 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. should also be trained, wherever sound judgment prog- nosticates the probable future unfitness of existing thighs. The chief spurs will each bear a few grapes, often the best. We will now give a cut as the vine should look if trimmed right, believing that this will furnish nearly as correct information as if the instruction were given before the vine itself. Fig. 21 represents a grapevine, over six years old, having a stem two inches or more thick, and healthy throughout; and bearing this in mind, one may add to, or lighten the “oad,” as good sense will dictate. Few vintners succeed in having all their vines in just such perfection. The vines will vary more or less; but the cut will give the general idea. If the reader will now compare the trimmed vine with the previous cut, he will easily see what must be cut away: namely, the old bow, and all other super- fluous wood. I need not add, that every vine bears small shoots, not marked down on the first cut; be- cause, to put them there would have perplexed the reader. All such must be trimmed away. Should the grapevine to be trimmed be a neglected one, and it is intended to start it right anew, then the above cut will, with the explanations, give a general idea how to bring this about. HOW TO CULTIVATE THE SOIL. pl Never put a “Spur” above the “ Bearing Wood,” or “ Bow,” or, as the European vintners have it, “‘ Never put the apprentice above the master,” a saying in which hes the whole idea of so trimming as to have the proper number of apprentices ready below, to become subse- quent masters. The thighs should never be shorter than eight or ten inches, nor longer than four fect; nor should the bows have more than ten to twelve buds, nor the spurs more than two or three buds. No vine should have more than three thighs—two is enough ; nor any one thigh more than one bow, and two spurs, (one will generally be enough.) Should it be intended to get “‘ Layers,” it is best to train ground shoots for the purpose. HOW TO CULTIVATE THE SOIL OF A VINEYARD. BEFORE any cultivation of the ground, the vineyard should be cleared of all offals from the previous trim- ming. ‘These offals should be packed down in those spots in the vineyard which have a tendency to wash. They may be used for these purposes in other locali- ties. In Germany, they are gathered up for firewood, as was the old custom in Judea. I have found them most excellent in smoking hams and meat generally, and fancied they gave to meat a better flavor. ———— iz - THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. The soil of a vineyard should never be cultivated except in dry, warm weather. The drier and warmer, the better. This should especially be the rule in the spring, as ground broken up wet subjects the plants near to injury from even the lightest foot-prints. The rule for breaking ground, in the spring, is simply this: Cultivate as soon as the ground is dry, and warm weather sets in; and don’t cultivate, no matter how late you have to wait, until fair weather does set in, and the ground is dry. Don’t be in too great a hurry, but improve every fair opportunity. If you’ delay too long, the buds will swell, and then they are very apt to fall off on even slight shaking. Whether hoes, ploughs, or cultivators are proper tools, must be determined by circumstances; and they will guide every person having any idea of the cultiva- tion of soil generally. The great point is thorough- ness—that is, in turning over every part of the soil, and the most careful attention towards the destruction of all weeds, particularly around the head of the Vine. In the spring, the ground should be broken up at least six inches deep, and the rougher the clods are left the better, so that they are fully turned. Rain and warmth will thus penetrate deeper; the ground will wash less, and the clods will be ready to fall entirely to pieces when the second cultivation takes place. The two- pronged hoe, (karsch, in German,) is, in my opinion, the VINES ON TRELLISES. (6) best instrument for this purpose. A good shovel- plough may work for the second, and a cultivator for the third operation. The first should take place before the middle of May, or latest, the first of June; the second, as soon after the vines are through blossoming, and the third early in the fall, (but not in the dog-days says an old vintner at my elbow,) a traditionary rule, for which it may be hard to give a scientific reason, but which I found true to my sorrow, in two instances in which I acted counter to the rule. In each case my vineyard lost more or less of its foliage, and all of its rich, green tint. There are, as yet, no old vineyards in the United © States; but it may be well to mention that old vine- yards must be cultivated with greater care than young ones; and their roots, even when near the surface, should not be needlessly torn up and injured. The same care should also be had in the fall cultiva- tion, so as to disturb as little as possible the tender sur- face-roots, which grow annually out of the head. VINES ON TRELLISES. In the preceding pages, the mode described is appli- cable particularly for vineyards intended for the manufacture of wine. If the object should be, how- T z- 8 S : 74 HE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL ever, to raise grapes merely for table use—either for one’s family or for market—a different mode, in some respects, may well be pursued, and instead of training the vines upon stakes, trellise work may be adopted. I may say that.the mode of staking out, indicated as the Palatinate method, Fig. 14, may form the general basis for trellises. The vines, instead of being four feet apart, should then be from eight to twelve, and the stakes or posts at least eight feet long above ground. For trellis planting, I would specially recommend, never to plant close to the walls of houses or fences, since such close planting injures the building, and be- sides, subjects vines to all kinds of msects which are apt to prey upon them. It impedes, also, the proper cultivation at all seasons of the year. ‘The distance from houses and walls should be at least four feet, and the trellises formed over shaded walks, which may be made in almost endless variety. Such trellises should be on the south side of houses, &., and every chance afforded for air and sun to operate upon every part of the vine. The early training of the vines is similar to the mode already described, except that they should be planted not less than eight feet apart. Less care need be taken for the formation of the “head,” near the ground, and less attention need be paid to the boughs, as well as to the renovation of the thighs. Some form the head three to five feet from the ground, and then VINES ON TRELLISES. q5 train two horizontal thighs out of it, upon which they trim in winter, four to eight spurs. Others, again, trim for full bows—others for half bows, with more or less spurs in all cases. The general idea is, that being less restrained as to room, par- ticularly along walks and around houses, less strict rules are followed as to trimming, it being varied ac- cording to circumstances. Summer trimming is almost invariably entirely dispensed with, unless, indeed, a regular vineyard is planted out upon this principle. Reading the preceding pages will indicate the general rules. Instead of thighs, branches, &c., the vine will then be divided into main and side stems, and branches with half bows and often even without any bows, and relying for bearing wood only upon spurs. Where a vine is intended to be drawn up as high as the roof of a two-storied house, the vine had better be trained upon the two-story principle also, by forming, if I may say so, a two-storied main stem. To train a vine some twelve to fifteen feet straight up, engenders its rapid growth, and imparts to it a heavy, rich foliage, but such vines are seldom good bearers. It is in accordance with long experience—one that has never failed—that bending the bearing wood pro- motes its bearing qualities, and equally useful are all checks to the too rapid upward flow of the sap. 76 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. Should such trellised vines be planted in too fat garden or hot-bed ground, they would grow very thriftily in their earlier years; and if this rapid growth tends to loading them early with too much bearing wood, such vines will soon become sickly, and almost invariably their fruit becomes distasteful, and their foliage assumes a disagreeable color. It is far better to have less rich soil. There is a tendency in the United States towards trellis planting for all grapevines. For table grapes this is all right, but we need never expect to make good wine from them. ‘Trellised vines bear a larger crop, and the grapes are more palatable to the taste ; but the wine made from them is insipid. I cannot, perhaps, furnish a better illustration of what I mean, than by reminding the reader of cider made out of na- tural fruit, and compared with that made out of fine table apples—the latter being far inferior. In Europe, they, therefore, plant upon trellises near large cities certain peculiar varieties of special table grapes, which bear large and early fruit. The “ Chas- selas,” in French, or the German “ Gutedel,” (good and noble,) are preferred for this purpose. I imported of them both slips and roots twice, but lost them each time in the second or third winter. The Burgundy, Muscatel, and Malvasier grape are also excellent table grapes for trellises. In this country the Isabella ripens SUMMER TRIMMING. Fug very unequally in vineyards when trained on stakes. It does better on trellises. The Catawba will also _ answer when trained on trellises for table fruit. SUMMER TRIMMING. Tuis labor is in German called Zwicken, which, being literally translated, means pinching with the forefinger and thumb. It is also sometimes called Ausbrechen (breaking off), because the main object of it is, to break off or remove all unnecessary branches, so that the retained useful branches may grow more thriftily, and that the grapes may thereby become more perfect and ripe, by receiving freely the effects of sun and air. Care must be taken that the growing grape be not without its due protection from leaves, as will presently be explained. This labor requires much practical skill, judgment, and experience. Hrrors in winter trimming, or acci- dental losses, may now be remedied by an expert sum- mer trimmer, by promoting, at the proper places, those shoots which the vine stands in need of. Errors in summer trimming are harder to remedy, for obvious reasons. Whoever, therefore, attempts trimming in summer should fully understand winter trimming, for 78 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. the two operations are intimately connected. In sum- mer trimming, the vine-dresser must have regard for the trim which is to follow the succeeding winter. One important point in this matter is to know where, that is, at what part of the vine, to leave the shoots Fia. 22. untrimmed, and which shoots to trim away. Some retain simply the thriftiest branches, regardless of the place they grow upon, which is a great error. If the bows are properly fastened to the stakes, the shoots SUMMER TRIMMING. 79 not to be trimmed will stand immediately upon or near the stake. See Fig. 22. The shoots, of which one or two are intended to be retained for bearing wood and other purposes, for the seasons following, being marked 1, 2, and 38, a shoot will also generally be retained upon each spur, and is marked a. Great care must be had not to retain for these purposes the shoots growing out of the buds marked B; being so near those marked No. 1 and 2, they are apt to be mistaken for them. How many shoots to retain cannot be stated definitely—that de- pends upon the relative strength, age, and vigor of each vine. For a vigorous vine three shoots maywell be left—that is, two upon each of the bows of those marked 1, 2, and 8, and one upon each spur as marked a; and also trim one, whenever this can be done, out of the “Head” marked C, the object of the latter being to be prepared for renovating the “thighs.” For an old, decrepit, or sickly vine, two or three new shoots would be enough. A good vine-dresser knows that there must be no attempt to have the foliage dispropor- tionate to the stem and roots below the ground. _ Which shoots to trim may be gathered from the pre- ceding remarks. They are marked 5 and upwards. Should there be grapes upon any of them, then they should be so pinched off as to leave one leaf at least, if not two, beyond the outer grape. In fact, no shoot 80 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. should be entirely broken off—one or two leaves should always be retained. T’o keep the vine in good bearing order, it is abso- lutely necessary so to trim or dress the vine in summer as to enable the winter trimmer to renovate constantly, and to replace entirely the thighs every four to six years. No “thigh” should be older than five years. Then it should be replaced by an entirely new one. Hence the lowest shoots, marked 1, 2, and 3, are re- tained upon the bows, and hence, too, one shoot is re- tained upon each of the spurs, marked a—these being intended for gradual renovation, while the ground shoots, marked C, are intended for entirely new “thighs,” being dressed up and trained for that pur- pose, as directed for young vines. I need hardly re- peat here, what I have said already, that both trimming too high or too low are both extremes to be avoided. More shoots are dressed up and retained than are needed for the succeeding winter trimming, and that is done both for the purpose of having a surplus in case of accident, and also to give the trimmer a choice, so that in examining the stem and roots, he may, when his vine is unobstructed by foliage, judge more clearly which are the most desirable branches for each respec- tive vine. When this labor is to be performed cannot be indi- cated by general rule. As soon as the shoots are SUMMER TRIMMING. 81 twelve or fourteen inches long, it is time to trim them, and dress and fasten them up. If too long delayed, a heavy storm might break off a good many of them, and thus prove a sad summer trimmer. Most gene- rally, the proper time is in the latter part of May, or early in June. Fig. 28. Fia. 24. A vine well trimmed. A vine badly trimmed. Let me repeat here the well-known fact, that the foliage is the great regulator of all vegetation in sum- mer. A good vine-dresser knows, by the very color of the leaf, the amount of foliage required by the vine. Some difference should also be made between dry and rainy seasons. Every grape should have some leaf 82 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. over it, to give it shade, and to aid it during the ripen- ing process. By comparing Figs. 23 and 24, the reader will at once perceive that in the latter, the vine is trimmed so that when the bow is unfastened, the shoot which 1s to form the next year’s bow would be much too high up on the stake. GATHERING THE GRAPES. CHEERFULLY the vintner undertakes this, the pleas- antest of all his labors. Remuneration for many a toil- some hour now smiles at him from out his favorite vines. So sweet is this feeling, that few vintners can wait for the proper time. Grapes, if intended for wine, should be gathered as late as is possible, and it matters not if they should even get overripe. Many vintners are of the opinion that the grape, once ripe—which is the case as soon as the stems of the grape bunches turn brown—it is useless to permit the grapes to encumber the vines any longer, as its quality will not be thereafter much improved. But experience demonstrates that while the quantity is slightly dimin- ished, the quality is much improved. In this country, where there are never more than two, and generally but one species of grape, while in Europe from six to GATHERING THE GRAPES. 83 twenty species are often found in the same vineyard, one reason for prémature gathering is obviated. The grapes generally ripen all about the same time. Should, ‘however—as will happen—one species of grape ripens before the other, it is best to gather the ripe fruit, and then gather the rest subsequently when ripe. There is one great objection among our vintners to patient waiting, which must be mentioned. It lies in the insecurity of their fruit against poachers. Fruit is for some reason regarded as common property, and the same person who would not take beans, cucumbers, corn, or carrots, will think any one a “ stingy bugger” who does not look with gratification at any person taking his grapes without leave. The vintners know the prevalence of this freebooting sentiment as to the fruit which has cost them so much labor and money. They will watch it for a fortnight, night and day, but it is too much to expect them to lose their night’s rest much longer, merely to improve the quality of their wine a degree or two. The conclusion is too tempting to be long resisted, to put their grapes “ where neither moth entereth, nor rust corrupteth, nor thieves break through and steal.” This is a serious impediment to an improvement in the quality of our wines, but I fear it will exist for some time, at least until fruit, especially grapes, become more generally cultivated, and then a “ fellow feeling” 84 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. will overcome the loose morality about fruit poaching. Laws which follow up this growing tendency, would certainly be useful. The following general rules are recommended in gathering grapes: ; 1. Gather only in fair weather, and after the dew is off the grapes. 2. Should rain or heavy fogs occur, stop gathering. It is always bad to go into vineyards while the ground is too wet, and especially in the fall. Aside from the injury to the quality of the wine, it can be proved, that between gathering in fair or foul weather, with and without the dew drops upon the grapes, there is a difference of between five to ten degrees in the quality of the wine. 8. Care should be had not to injure the vines, while searching for the inside grapes. 4, Unripe grapes should, as already stated, be left in the vineyard on the vines, and if there be but few, or if the season will not permit their subsequent ripen- ing, it is a good practice to mix them with some good apples in cider making, but not to put them with the good ripe grapes. 5. Should a few unripe berries be found on a grape- bunch they must be picked out and thrown away,—or should there be a few really ripe berries upon an un- ripe bunch, then the ripe ones are picked out and ga- thered, and the unripe bunch itself is left on the vine. GATHERING THE GRAPES. 85 © 6. Everything, except the good, sound, ripe berries, should be carefully picked out, and particularly- those dried up kernels—so frequent in this country—the result of the blue rot. 7. Leaves, which casually drop among the gathered grapes should be thrown out. It is easy to see from the preceding rules, that ga- thering grapes requires care and attention. I think buckets and tight barrels are better for the purpose of holding the gathered grapes, than baskets. The skins of American Grapes are, to be sure, tougher than the Kuropean, though this is fortunately getting less so every year, but very ripe grapes suffer much loss, even here, if handled in baskets. I would here warn against that voracious eating of grapes, while gathering them, which is characteristic of raw hands. Our grapes have very large kernels and very tough skins, and there is inside also a rather indigestible pulp. All these things are different in Hurope. There the kernels are small, the skin very light, and the inside is almost without pulp. Persons in this country read of the Grape Cure in Europe, and from this conclude, that grapes are always healthy. So they no doubt are, if eaten in small quantities, and when perfectly ripe; but I know of five deaths, within my own experience, which from unmistakable sions arose from eating too freely of grapes. One of these 86 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. five was a most hearty and very intelligent young German, who laughed at all warnings, and would insist that grapes were surely healthy at all times of the day, and in any amount. MANURES. WHATEVER experiments may have been made with special manures for vineyards, the best 2s, and will continue to be, the compost manure, if got up right. It may be composed of various kinds of material, easily attainable. Common stable manure, street sweepings, turnpike dirt, sweepings and slops of houses and chambers, saw- dust, shavings, pomace, leavings from tan yards, tailor, shoe and turning shops, distilleries, ground out of woods, marl, leaves from the vines, and weeds of all kinds, woollen rags, especially; all these, and many other things, which will readily suggest themselves, should be procured, as opportunity offers, in as great a variety as possible, and mixed together in the follow- ing manner: A hole is dug, at least four feet deep and six feet wide, as near the vineyard as possible, and into it are these materials thrown promiscuously, and as they are thrown in, covered and mixed half and half MANURES. 87 with ground. It is most excellent to pour over it fre- quently the liquids of horse and cow stables. Let it rot for a year, and then remove it into the vineyard, and the effects of such compost manure are far supe- rior to any other. Ps Woollen rags are excellent, applied alone. They rot soon, when placed around the stem of the vine and covered with ground. Horn shavings and filings are also very good, so are hair and all kinds of leather. I prefer, however, to throw every one of these last-named materials into the compost heaps, mixing and rotting them with the rest. No vineyard should be manured oftener than once in two years; and where the ground is rich, it should be done only every three or four years. During the first three or even four years, no manure need be apphed, except preparatory to the first bearing year, and then sparingly immediately around the vines. The quantity is not so easy to determine, but fifteen to twenty good two-horse loads of compost manure per acre would not be too much. Woollen rags, horn-shavings, hair, and such special strong manures, had better be applied in the fall. Compost manure, if well rotted, may be applied during fall or spring. I have ever disapproved manuring 4% 88 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. during summer, as it disturbs the growth, and is likely to impart a peculiar taste to the wine. I have always found it best to spread the compost manure all over the vineyard, well covering it, how- ever, wath ground. Special manure I have applied more immediately around the vines, and found it a good practice. ; During the alternate years in which manure is not applied, ground should be hauled to each vine, taking the ground from the woods. This keeps the vine itself, and especially its head, well supplied with ground, and prevents its being exposed too far above the surface. DISEASES TO WHICH GRAPEVINES ARE SUBJECT. I coULD not, consistently, encumber this book with a chapter on “Grape sicknesses,” because I am satis- fied that I could only give a page or so of specula- tions, which may prove right, but of which I have not had a fair experience. I have preferred to state only methods known to me to be practical and correct. If they are well followed, I do not think that any serious sickness need be ever apprehended. ‘The grape sick- nesses in America may with propriety form a part of such a book as the one now presented, when we shall WINE MAKING. . 89 have had a further experience of ten or fifteen years, and after we shall have planted really good vineyards. For the same reason I dispense with several other pro- lific subjects, which usually form a part of such books. WINE MAKING. MASHING THE GRAPES. ALMOosT every vine-dresser in this country has his own mode of mashing grapes, as has almost every neighborhood in Europe. I will endeavor to describe some of the more simple methods, and they may serve the reader as an indica- tion of what he may require, each case being modified by the kind and particularly the quantity of grapes to be mashed. For a few bushels of grapes I know of no more sim- ple and efficacious method than to prepare a wooden stamper three feet and a half long, of the form repre- sented in Fig. 25, being at the larger end six inches in diameter and having the bottom a little scooped out or concave. Bore holes entirely through the large end with a quarter-inch auger in every direction, and in- 90 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. sert round oak or hickory pins, so as to have them project at each end three-eighths of an inch. Into a clean sweet cask of the capacity of about forty gallons, put about two bushels of grapes, and then pass the stamper up and down among them until they are completely mashed. The small wooden pins project- ing as they do, are a great aid in the mashing process. Fre. 25. Fra. 26. As soon as completely mashed, empty the mass into a box upon the press. Another mode very common in Europe, is treading the grapes with the feet. The grapes are placed in a small tub or cask, the bottom of which is punctured WINE MAKING. 91 with small auger holes. This tub is placed upon two sticks put across a larger cask, and the operator treads the grapes with his feet. A machine of very simple construction having two rollers, between which the grapes are passed, may be constructed for a few dollars, and will answer a good purpose. Fig. 26 will serve for an illustration. Whenever larger quantities are to be mashed, I would advise the use of the common apple-mashers with horse power. I prefer these as cheapest, very expedi- tious and effective, and in all localities easily obtained. After the pomace has been once slightly pressed, I have always subjected it toa second mashing, and again pressing it. The rollers or mashers should not be set too close, as the stems and kernels should not be crushed. In Hurope, about twenty years ago, the practice of separating the “berries” from the “combs” before pressing, was much in vogue. The comb containing tannin and apple acids, it was deemed desirable to keep these ingredients out of the wine. This was performed by rasps of various con- struction, one of which is represented in Fig. 27, consisting of two shallow boxes or trays; the bottoms made of crossed slats, laid as represented in cut a, Fig. 27, and not laid upon the flat sides of the square. The upper rasp must be small enough to admit of its being THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. 92 rubbed backward and forward within and upon the lower one, having the grapes between them. = ttt woe | - jm) Fia. 27, Lal EEELE ‘coc ey, SSeS. es = The interstices should be of the proper size to suffer the crushed berries to pass through and retain the comb. WINE MAKING. 98 The slats may be three-fourths of an incb or an inch in thickness. These rasps may be of wood of any size from two feet to six feet square; made somewhat like a window- sash with a rim around the margin six inches high. They are placed over a tub of the proper size when being used. This method of mashing grapes will not probably prevail to any great extent in the United States. The harder skin of our grapes and their peculiar pulp ren- der it more laborious, and it is the opinion of many of our best vintners that the “tannin” of the stem, both improves the flavor of the wine and furnishes some preservative qualities. Many of the wine manufacturers of Europe allow the mashed grapes to ferment in stand casks before pressing, and for grapes thus to be fermented the rasp- ing process is certainly to be recommended. This fermentation will, I think, not be adopted gen- erally in this country, owing to the warmth of the season at the time of vintage. It is a matter upon which itis well to experiment, however, and the result would be interesting to the public. The practice most be recommended is to mash the berries upon the stems effectually, and any method which accomplishes this, without too much bruising the comb or crushing the kernel, may be adopted. The 94. THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. more expeditiously this is done, and the sooner the grapes can be got to the press without unnecessary ex- posure to the atmosphere, the better. PRESSING. AFTER the grapes are mashed, they should be trans- ferred as expeditiously as possible to the wine press. Fre, 28. As to the kind of press and other appurtenances of the vineyard, the vintner must be governed by the quantity of grapes, the extent of his present and pro- PRESSING. 95 spective vineyards, and the dimensions of his purse. But this volume being intended especially for begin- ners and persons having limited vineyards, our descrip- tion of a wine-press will be of the simplest kind, adapt- ed to the masses of our people, few of whom have large vineyards. Fig. 28 represents a wine-press of very simple construction, which may be made larger than the dimensions given below when the quantity of grapes demands it. The upright posts may even be inserted into the ground a distance of four feet instead of into the pieces of timber as represented. They are 10 by 12 inches and 10 feet in height. The top cross piece is 8 by 10 inches and 8 feet long, the ends secured to the upright posts by mortise and tenon. The two lower cross pieces are notched into the posts about two feet from the bottom, and are secured by a pin or bolt. Upon these lower cross pieces is placed the floor of the press, which is some four feet square, and is composed either of a solid piece of wood or of several pieces jointed together, so formed as to make a bed of two and a half inches thick with a rim all around of six inches in height. The floor should descend in every direc- tion towards the hole for the spout. The pieces must be driven together by wedges inserted between the floor and the posts. 96 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. Upon this “ press-floor” is placed the frame, Fig. 29, made of two-inch oak boards— feet square and 18 to 24 inches high, fastened together by mortise and tenon, yet so as to be easily taken apart and perforated by holes one-eighth of an inch diameter, about an inch apart, also having notches cut on the lower edge, for the passage of the juice. Fie. 29, Into this frame are poured the mashed grapes. After levelling them off, a covering of inch boards is placed upon them; this cover is closely fitted to the frame, and can be easily put in and taken out, and upon this a cross piece of oak 6 by 6 inches for the screw to press upon. The screw may be of wood or iron, and is turn- ed by levers inserted in the head. The sap which first flows from the press makes the best wine, and that which is last expressed is somewhat PRESSING. 97 inferior. In this country the manufacture of wine is so much in its infancy, that very few persons attempt to preserve the nice distinctions in the quality of wines which prevail in Hurope, and the wine is generally thrown promiscuously into the cask. | Cleanliness and despatch in mashing and pressing cannot be too strongly enjoined. The young wine is easily spoiled because it adopts acids not only from the atmosphere, but also from any implement or utensil which may be sour or unclean. The press mashers and casks should therefore be scrupulously cleaned before using them, and be kept clean during the entire labor. Employ none but expert, neat, and cleanly work- men. Do not let your grapes, either before or after being mashed, stand about for days in tubs or barrels. Hire hands enough to gather every day enough to fill your press, and, if possible, mash and press them the same evening, and transfer the juice to the cellar, permitting the air to act upon it as little as possible during these operations. Do not defer procuring your casks to the last mo- ment. Have the transfer casks you fill with, and also your cellar casks, nicely clean and tight. They should be as large as the quantity of wine you expect to make will require. The larger the quantity 98 THE VINE-DRESSER'S MANUAL. fermenting in one body, the steadier is the fermenta- tion and the better the wine. Large casks are the pride of a good vintner, because they are a guarantee that his wine will have a chance to ferment well. In Europe, casks of 10,000 gallons are frequent, and less than 500 gallons are seldom used; and such vintners as have smaller quantities either sell their wine from the press, or, clubbing together, get their wine into large casks. A wine house with a cellar underneath, is desirable in every vineyard of a size sufficient to justify the ex- pense. The construction is simple, and requires no explanation in this volume. TREATMENT OF THE WINE. THE young wine fresh from the Press is filled into the casks in the cellar. These casks should be placed upon scantling or scaffolding, and not upon the ground in the cellar. | They should be filled only three-fourths full. The wine will soon commence fermentation, gen- erally within the next twenty-four hours. The mass bubbles, as cider does, during fermentation, and if the * TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 99 casks were entirely filled, much of it would run over. It rejects carbonic acid, and also many of the finer aromatic essences escape. Many devices have been tried to retain these latter. The process adopted in the making of Champagne is for the purpose of securing this great desideratum, and thus the greater part of the carbonic acid and these finer essences are retained. The manufacture of Champagne, however, requires an amount of outlay for casks, cellars of extraordinary depth, bottles, &., which places it beyond the reach of the ordinary vintner of small means; and as this will also place it beyond the scope of this work, we must refer the reader to those works which treat upon the subject, especially if they would pursue their investi- gations further in this direction. The securing the finer essences of the wine, may be Co 100 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. attained sufficiently for our purpose by a very simple contrivance, shown in Fig. 30. | A tube of block tin is inserted into the bung of the cask an inch or more, with the shorter arm immersed in a crock of water. As soon as the fermentation shall have fairly commenced, the carbonic acid will escape through the water. As the fermentation and its consequent pressure subsides, much of the carbonic acid, and many of the aromas, so essential to fine-flavored wine, are retained. A great advantage is also gained thereby in rendering it less necessary to keep watch over the fermentation, and to close the casks as soon as the fermentation shall have ceased; the external atmosphere being at all times excluded, the oxygen of the air cannot penetrate to the fermenting mass. When this plan is not adopted, be careful not to fasten the bung during fermentation. This would cause the cask to burst. As soon as the fermentation is over, drive in the bung tightly. After the more violent fermentation is passed, fill the casks brimfull, and for four weeks refill at least once a week, and afterwards, till late in the spring, re- fill once a month. In Europe, where wine is a chief element in the food of families, one cask is kept for daily use, and ee re hel.) ee TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 101 from this the other casks are replenished. In any cask that cannot be kept full, the vacant space should be burned out with brimstone, as hereafter described, at least once a month. The object of this being to keep it perfectly sweet. Empty wine casks should be thus “ burnt out” once each quarter of a year, and especially just before fill- ing or immediately after emptying them. Before burning, the casks should be thoroughly washed out with hot and cold water. The brimstone will not burn unless the casks are nearly clean. One can also detect by this means whether the casks are perfectly tight, as the smoke will he sure to eseape through any crevices, if such exist. The brimstone is prepared as follows; Put common brimstone in a pot over a slow fire. Be careful not to melt too rapidly, as this may cause it to ignite. When melted, draw through it strips of stout paper, an inch wide and a foot long, and hold them in the air a few minutes till the brimstone hardens. To burn out a cask, take out the bung, and after setting fire to one of these strips, quickly insert it into the cask, and drive the bung home upon it, so as to hold it suspended while it burns. Some wine-makers, after burning with brimstone, again burn the cask out with a small sponge dipped in 102 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL, the best brandy, fastened to a wire, and inserted into the cask as with the brimstone slip. The fermented wine is left in the cask upon the lees undisturbed until spring, say March or April. Then it should be drawn off. About the time that the grapevine is in bloom, the wine undergoes another fermentation in the cellar, again forming small lees, Wine becomes generally clear a few weeks after it is put into the casks in the fall, and some persons then draw it off. This gives the wine a milder taste, but at the expense of strength, Our wines being naturally strong, this may be done here without material injury. A vintner should take the’ earliest opportunity to have a good, well-paved, deep cellar, dry and well walled with stone. It should be not less than eight feet deep. In Europe their cellars are seldom less than twelve to twenty feet deep, and are almost invariably arched over. Thus their wines are preserved from the extreme cold of winter and heat of summer. Cellars should be kept dark, except while working in them, Vegetables, and substances which are apt to create an offensive smell, should not be kept in the same cellar with wine. Andthe cellar should always be kept scrupulously clean. As soon as the wine is perfectly clear in the spring, I would recommend the bottling off for family use (a TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 103 half gross or so), and laying the bottles in sand. Those who will try this plan will find that after lying thus for some six weeks, their wine will be vastly improved. In the directions here given for the making of wing, I have confined myself to the simple treatment of such matters as every vintner must know. A much more elaborate work might have been written, but the “ Vine-Dresser’s Manual’ is intended for the general cultivator, and not for the extensive wine manufac- turer. A good cultivator will find in this all that is neces- sary to enable him to make good wine, or better said, to suffer the wine to make itself. Tn conclusion, I hope I shall be pardoned for saying that natural, unadulterated wine is entirely healthful, and may with great advantage form a part of the food of our people, and for all classes be made a wholesome addition to the principal meal of the day at least. All artificial wines are injurious, and none more so ’ as they are called, than those ‘ unfermented wines,’ with which over-scrupulous persons are humbugged. All such are unnatural, and contain foreign substance, more or less unwholesome. Would that good, sound sense were more prevalent on this subject. May God bless the vintner’s skill and toil! eyes) D ; she ru v4 tyro eae } ‘ PM we “- sf —— # ge ee a «oe - f ‘ F “af x a ! J on be, a . * Lad Pe it - rP a i . * ¢ = © e. ~ v ~ A = es 4 4 P be? ey 9 ‘ are ye Sc dee P a ‘ . ii mr Avi: . ry ’ ’ s a i iS . - Ask vi i} bat Pes if 4 if Aw > a 2 re) sot tea aly a | oul of - ’ , oe 8 as | aaa ae me COE Pai” Samy Lee eset iy anise fd 4 x , ns f orf Wry! ig 8) ee ye a Sy te Tee ha, eke. i Ox . Bf fieveeetits one hada bce 4 _ hep lgeptete ania Higgs ; oe es een ee ee ee BOOKS FOR THE COUNTRY, PUBLISHED BY C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET, NEW YORK, SUITABLE FOR SCHOOL, TOWN, AGRICULTURAL AND PRIVATE LIBRARIES. The American Cattle Doctor; = the necessary information for preserving the health and curing the diseases of Oxen, Cows, Sheep and Swine, with a great variety of original receipts, and valuable information in reference to Farm and Dairy management, whereby every man can be his own Cattle Doctor. The principles taught in this work are, that all medication shall be subservient to nature—that all medicines must be sanative in their operation, and administered with a view of aiding the vital powers, instead of depressing, as heretofore, with the lancet by poison. By G.H Dodd, M.D., Veterinary Practitioner. Price $1. The Field Book of Manures; Or American Muck Book ; treating of the Nature, Properties, Sources, History, and Operations of all the principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common Use, with Specific Directions for their Preservation, and Application to the Soil and to Crops ; drawn from Authentic Sources, Actual Experience, and Personal Observation, ag combined with the leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. By D. Jay Brown. $1.25. - Sheep Husbandry ; With an account of the difforent breeds, and general directions in regard to Sum mer and Winter management, breeding, and the treatment of diseases, with portraits and other engravings. By Henry S. Randall. Price $1.25. Blake’s Farmer at Home. A Family Text Book for the Country ; being a Cyclopedia of Agricultural Imple- ments and Productions, and of the more Important Topics in Domestic Economy, “pay and Literature ; adapted to Rural Life. By Rev. John L. Blake, D.D 1.25. The Progressive Farmer. A Scientific Treatise on Agricultural Chemistry, the Geology of Agriculture, on Plants and Animals, Manures and Soils applied to Practical Agriculture. By J A Nash. Price 50 cts. Allen on the Culture of the Grape. A Practical Treatise on the Culture and Treatment of the Grape Vine, embracing its history, with directions for its treatment in the United States of America, in the open air and under glass structures, with and without artificial heat. By J. Fisk Allen. Price $1. Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explained ; Being a Complete Analysis of the whole subject, consisting of the Naturel Histo of Bees, Directions for Obtaining the greatest amount of Pure Surplus Huney wit the least possible expense ; Remedies for Losses given, and the Science of Luck , fully illustrated ; the result of more than twenty years’ experience in extensive Aviaries. By M. Quinby. Price $1. 2 Bovks Published by C. M. Saxton. —_— $+ eee The Shepherd’s Own Book ; With an Account of the different Breeds and Management, and Diseases of Sheep ; and General Directions in regard to Summer and Winter Management, Breeding, and the Treatment of Diseases; with Llustrative Engravings, by Youatt & Ran dall, embracing Skinner’s Notes on the Breed and Management of Sheep in the United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool. Price $2. Canfield on Sheep. The Breeds, Management, Structure and Diseases of the Sheep, with Illustrative Engravings, and an Appendix, containing List of Medicines used in the Treatment of Diseases, Plans of Stalls, Gates, Barn, Sheds, &e. &c. Price $1. Johnston’s Chemistry and Geology. Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology, with a Complete Analytical and Alphabetical Index. By Simon Brown, Esq., Editor of the New England Farmer. Price $1.25. Practical Agriculture ; Being a Treatise on the General Relations which Science bears to Agriculture Delivered before the New York State Agricultural Society ; with Notes and Ex planations by an American Farmer. Cloth, 75 cts. ; paper 50 cts. Johnston’s Agricultural Chemistry. Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geology to Agriculture. New edition, with an Appendix. $1.25. Smith’s Landscape Gardening, Parks & Pleasure Grounds; With Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks and Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape Gardener and Garden Architect, &c., with. Notes and Additions by Lewis F. Allen, author of “ Rural Architecture,” &c. The author, while engaged in his profession for the last eighteen years, has often been requested to recommend a book which might enable persons to acquire some general knowledge of the principles of Landscape Gardening. The object of the present work is to preserve a plain and direct method of state- ment, to be intelligible to all who have had an ordinary education, and to give directions which, it is hoped, will be found to be practical by those who have an adequate knowledge of country affairs. Price $1.25. Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden ; Or an Account of the most valuable Fruits Cultivated in Great Britain. By George Lindley ; with additions of all the most valuable Fruits Cultivated in America, with Directions for their Cultivation, Budding, Grafting and Propaga- tion; Pruning and Training of Standards, re Dwarf and Espalier Fruit Trees, adapted to the Climate of the United States of America. A new elition, with an Appendix, describing many American Fruits not mentioned in the ormer edition Price $.125. The American Fruit Culturist ; Containing Directions for the Propagation and‘Culture of Fru: Trees in the Nursery, Orchard and Garden ; with Descriptions of the principal American and Foreign varieties Cultivated in the United States. By John J. Thomas. Illustra. ted with three hundred accurate figures. Price $1.23. American Poultry Yard. The American Poultry Yard ; comprising the Origin, History and Descriptron of the different Breeds of Domestic Pcealtry, with complete directions for their Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Fattening and Preparation for Market ; includins specific directions for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of the Principa Diseases to which they are subject, drawn from authentic sources and persona} observation [llust-ated with numeroua engravings. By D.J. Browne. Cloth $1, paper, 75 cts Books Published by C. M. Saxton. 3 ee eee Youatt and Martin on Cattle; Being a Treatise on their Breeds, Management and Diseases, comprising a full History of the Various Races ; their Origin, Breeding and Merits their capacity for Beef and Milk. By W. Youatt and W.C.L. Martin. The whole forming a complete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 illustrations. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. $1.25. Youatt on the Horse. Youatt on the Structure and Diseases of the Horse, wits their Remedies Also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Smiths, &c. Edited by W. C. Spooner, M.R.C.V.S. With an count of the Breeds in the United States, by Henry S. Randall. $1.25. Youatt and Martin on the Hog. A Treatise on the Breeds, Management and Medical Treatment of Swine, with directions for Salting Pork and Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. Youatt, R.8. Illustrated with engravings drawn from life $1.00. Youatt on Sheep ; Their Breed, Management and Diseases, with illustrative engravings ; to which are added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in the United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia. By William Youatt. 75 cts. American Architect. The American Architect, comprising Original Designs of cheap Country and Village Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans and Directions, and an esti- mate of the Cost of each Design. By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second Series, quarto, bound in one vol., half roan, $6. Domestic Medicine. Gunn’s Domestic Medicine, or Poor Man’s Friend in the Hours of Affliction, Pain and Sickness Raymond’s new revised edition, improved and enlarged by John C. Gunn, 8vo. Sheep, $3. Family Kitchen Gardener ; Containing Plain and Accurate Descriptions of all the different Species and Varie ties of Culinary Va ee with their Botanical, English, French and German names, alphabetically arranged, 4nd the best mode of cultivating them in the garden, or under glass ; also, Descriptions and Character of the most Select Fruits; their Managenrent, Propagation, &«. By Robert Buist, author of the American Flower Garden Directory, &c. Cloth, 75 cts. ; paper, 50 cts. Hoare on the Grape Vine. A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine en Open Walls, with a Descriptive Account of an improved method of Planting 1nd Managing the Roots of Grape Vines. By Clement Hoare. With an Appendix on the Caliivetion of the same in the United States. 50 cts. Stephens’ Book of the Farm; A Complete Guide to the Farmer, Steward, Plowman, Cattleman, Shepherd, Field Worker and Dairy Maid. By Henry Stephens. With Four Hundred and Fifty - Jilustrations ; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, &c., by J.S Skinner. Really one of the best books for a Farmer to possess. Cloth, $4 leather, $4.50. The Diseases of Domestic Animals; Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Poultry and Farm Dogs, with Directions for their Management, Breeding, Crossing, Rear- ing, Feeding and Preparation for a profitable Market ; also, their Diseases and Remedies, together with full Directions for the Management of the Dairv, and the Comperative Economy and Advantages of Working Animals, the Horse, Nala Oxen, &c. By R.L. Alles. Cloth, 75 cts : paper, 50 ets. = Books 2ublished by C. M. Sascton. — American Bee-keeper’s Manual ; Being a Practical Treatise on the History and Domestic Economy of the Heney Bee ; embracing a full illustration of the whole subject, with the most approved methods of managing this Insect, through every branch of its Culture, the result rf re Acdaaeaia experience Illustrated with many engravings. By T. B. Miner oth, $1. Amezican Bird Fancier, Considered with reference to the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management, &c 4 Cage and House Birds. [Illustrated with engravings. By D. J. Browne Cloth, 50 cts. The American Farm Book. The American Farm Book ; or, a Compend of American Agriculture, being § Practical Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roots, Fruits, Cotton, Tobacco, Sugar Cane, Rice, and every Staple Product of the United States ; with the best methods of planting, cultivating and preparation for market. Illustrated by more than 100 engravings. By R.L. Allen. Cloth, $1; paper, 75 cents. Southern Agriculture ; Comprising Essays on the Cultivation ot Corn, Hemp, Tobacco, Wheat, &c. $1 The Cottage and Farm Bee-keeper ; A Practical Work, by a Country Curate. 50 cts. A Book for Every Boy in the Country. Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French, and adapted to general use, by F. G. Skinner. 26 cts. Allen’s Rural Architecture ; Comprising Farm Houses, Cottages, Carriage Houses, Sheep and Dove Cotes, Piggeries, Barns, &c. &. By Lewis F. Allen $1.25. The Rose; Being a Practical Treatise on the Propagation, Cultivation and Management ef the Rose in all Seasons ; with a List of Choice and Approved Varieties, adapted to the Climate of the United States ; to which is added Full Directions for the Treat ment of the Dahlia. l:lustrated by engravings, Cloth, 50 cts. The American. Agriculturist ; Being a Collection of Original Articles on the Various Subjects connected with the Farm, in ten vols. 8vo., containing nearly four trousand pages. $10. The Complete Farmer and American Gardener, Rural Economist, and New American Gardener, containing a Compendious Epitome of the most Important’ Branches of Agricultural and Rural Economy ; with Practical Directious on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables ; including Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By Thomas G. Fessenden. 2 vols. in one. $1.25. Experimental Researches on the Food of Animals, The Fattening of Cattle, and Remarks on the Food of Man. By Robert Dundas Thompson, M.D. 75 cts. The American Florist’s Guide ; Comprising the American Rose Culturist and Every Lady her own Flower Gardener. Half cloth, 76 cts. , Saxton’s Rural Hand Books, First and Second Series. Bound in 2 vols. $2.50 Embracing ‘1 welve Complete Treatises in the different departments of Agriculture, being or¢ of the most valu- able Bouks vet psblished ee wate COM ts aS = i ae ne ry « ber ae x3) ‘oy sh, eee " tani aes pinta: Aaa eves rs Ww vw by: ows vey an aE Sod a ee Able op fi § ni a gd: Poncs viawont » vos, i iii 0009185148