A
VISIT
TO
THE SOUTH SEAS,
IN THE UNITED STATES' SHIP VINCENNES, DURING THE YEARS 1829 AND 1830;
INCLUDING
SCENES
IN BRAZIL, PERU, MANILLA, THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AND ST HELENA.
BY C. S. STE ^ART, A.M.,
CHAPLAIN IN THE UNITED STATES' NAVT.
" A principal fruit of these circuits of the globe seems likely to be the amusement c f those that stay at home."
COVFPBR'S CORRBSPONDBNCB.
IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II.
^
LONDON: \C v
HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,
NEW BUELINGTON STREET.
MDCCCXXXII.
G. WOODFALL, ANGEI. COURT, SKINNER STREET, LONDON.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
LETTER XXXV. i
ARRIVAL AT TAHITI.
Page THE Low Islands.— Scenery of Matavai. — Boarded by a
Native, and bring Ship to Anchor. — Appearance of the Peo- ple and Effect of the Music.— Ellis's Polynesian Researches. 1
LETTER XXXVI.
HARBOUR OF PAPEETE-
Scenery along Shore.— Sketch of Papeete.— Mr. and Mrs. Pritchard. — Plantation of Mr. Bicknell. — Turnpike at Ta- hiti.— Royal Residence and Tomb of Pomare. — Schools at the Missionary Stations 9
LETTER XXXVII.
A TAHITIAN SABBATH.
Sabbath School at Matavai.— Public Worship and Ob- servance of the Sabbath 18
LETTER XXXVIIL
VISIT TO EIMEO, AND ARRIVAL AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
Papetoai and Afareaitu. — Return to Matavia. — Island of Huahine. — Arrival and Anchorage at Raiatea. — Mission- house 22
IV CONTENTS.
LETTER XXXIX.
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING TAMATOA, AND A SABBATH AT RAIATEA.
Page
Residence of the King. — Queen of Raiatea and King Ta- matoa. — The Queen's Cottage and Household. — Sabbath and Communion service 29
LETTER XL.
AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN OF TAHITI, AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP.
Royal Party. — Shrewdness of the Regent. — Meeting of the Landowners and Speech of Uaeva.— Reception on board Ship. — Governess of Huahine 36
LETTER XLI.
COMMUNICATION OF POMARE VAHINE I. TO THE PRESIDENT.
Letter of the Queen to the President. — Religious Confer, ence and Speech of a Church Member 43
LETTER XLII.
DEPARTURE FOR THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
General Aspect of Borabora, — Misrepresentations of the State of the Islands. —Contrast between their former and present Condition 47
LETTER XLIII.
ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF HAWAII. First Sight of Hawaii. — Land in a small Boat 54
CONTENTS V
LETTER XLIV.
VISIT ON SHORE, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE
SCENERY.
Page
Reception of Mr. Goodrich.— Garden at the Mission-house. — Greetings of the Islanders. — Entrance to the Bay and surrounding Scenery 57
LETTER XLV.
A WORSHIPPING ASSEMBLY AT HIDO.
Scene on the Sabbath Morning,— Aspect of the Congrega- tion.— Evidences of the Power of the Gospel. — Interesting case of Attention in an Elderly Female 63
LETTER XLVI.
JOURNEY TO THE VOLCANO OF KIRAUEA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF ITS PRESENT STATE.
Preparations for leaving the Ship. — Residence of Kinai, Head Man of Ora. — Arrival at the Crater. — Evening Scene and Lodgings. — Crater at Midnight. — Morning Walk. — Singular Provision of Water. — Descent of the First Cliff. — Glen within the Crater. — Changes on the Ledge. — Descent to the Bottom. — Examination of two Cones. — Temerity and Dangerous Feat of an Islander. — Sublime Night-scene. — Pedestrians in a Storm 72
LETTER XL VII.
CASCADE OF THE RAINBOW.
Ramble along the Wairuku. — Circumstances of a fatal Casualty. — Description of the Cascade.— Adjoining Scenery TJa
LETTER XLVIII.
THE HEREDITARY AND LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.
Personal Appearance of the Priestess. — Instance of affected Inspiration Conversion to Christianity.— Former Sacri-
a3
VI CONTENTS.
Page fices to Pele. — Total Subversion of the Heathenism of the
Country 100
LETTER XLIX.
FIRST INTERVIEW WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT OAHU.
Departure from Byron's Bay. — Aspect of Oahu. — Arrival and Landing. — Improvements in Honolulu. — Meeting with the Missionaries 10?
LETTER L.
RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN FINCH AND PARTY, BY THE KING AND REGENT.
Interchange of Salutes — Walk to the King's Residence. — Description of the Palace and its Furniture. — Dress of the King. — Presentation. — Address of Captain Finch. — Letter of the Secretary of the Navy. — Delivery of the Presents. — Personal Appearance of the King 113
LETTER LI.
A MORNING VISIT TO THE PRINCIPAL CHIEFS.
Evening Prayer Meeting. — Letter of the Regent. — Keku- anaoa, and his Residence. — Principal Apartment. — Kekau- ruohe and Kanaina. — Residence of Kaahumanu. — Present and former State 128
LETTER LII.
EVENING DRIVE AND VISIT TO THE VALLEY OF MANOA.
Evening Scene. — Equipage of the American Consul and others taking the Air. — Country-house of Kaahumanu, and the Prophet's Chamber 137
CONTENTS. Vll
LETTER LIII.
EDICT OF THE KING IN ANSWER TO A MEMORIAL
OF THE BRITISH RESIDENTS.
Page Importance of a Newspaper at the Islands. — Necessity of
new Laws. — Legislative Enactments. — Ancient Usage in Re- spect to the Trespass of Animals. — Case of Oppressive Treat- ment by Foreigners. — Rehearsal of the Laws. — Answer to the Memahaluts 142
LETTER LIV.
VISIT AT LAHAIXA IN MAITI.
Preparations for a Voyage to Maui. — Arrival and Reception by the Chiefs and People. — The Princess Harieta.— The Chief of Waeruku and his Wife — Gifts of Affection by the People. — Residence of the Richards.— College of Maaro. — New Chapel. — Country-honse of Kekauonohi. — Return to Oahu 153
LETTER LV.
VISIT OF CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE PRINCESS, AND ENTERTAINMENT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP.
Interview of Captain Finch with the Princess and the Wind- ward Chiefs — Kapiolani, Wife of Naihe, the National Coun- sellor.—Dresses of the Chiefs, and Entertainment on board ship 1 65
LETTER LVI.
GENERAL EXAMINATION OF THE SCHOOLS OF OAHU.
Elementary Knowledge, and Fondness of the Natives for Arithmetic. — Appearance of the Scholars in the Chapel. — Aboriginal Display of the Princess and Ex-Queen. — Gift of the Princess to Captain Finch. — Imposing Aspect of a Na- tive Procession 171
Vlll CONTENTS.
LETTER LVII.
AN EVENING MEETING AND SABBATH SCENES.
Page Natives assembling for Worship. — An Albino and a Blind
Man. — Evidences of Piety among the Islanders. — Public Professions and Baptism of Infants. — Administration of the Sacrament 181
LETTER LVIII.
DETRACTION AND CALUMNY OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
Defamation of the Princess. — Report of it to her Guardians. — Council, and Letter of the Chiefs. — Answer of Captain Finch. — Advice of Foreigners on the Subject of Marriage. — Source of the Detraction of Voyagers. — False Represent- ations of Residents. — Statements of Captains Beechey and Kotzebue. — Mr. Bingham and his Associates. — Mental and moral Worth.. 1JJO
LETTER LIX.
GOVERNMENT DEBT, AND STATE OF COMMERCE.
Visit of the Missionaries. — Commercial Arrangements. — In- crease of Trade.— Official Letter of the American Consul.. . 210
LETTER LX.
A RIDE TO THE COUNTRY HOUSE OF GOVERNOR BOKI, AND EVENING ENTERTAINMENT BY THK KING.
Invitation by Governor Boki. — Equipage of the Regent. — The General Cavalcade. — Horsemanship of the King. — New Turnpike. — Battle-ground. — Scenery of the Valley and En- campment of the Governor. — Entertainment and Course of the Shrimp. — Supper at the Palace 219
CONTENTS. IX
LETTER LXI.
SECOND VISIT TO LAHAINA.
Page Chiefs and their Luggage.— Arrival at Lahaina. — Letter of
the Princess to Mrs. Stewart 231
LETTER LXII.
THREE DAYS AT KEARAKEKUA AND KAAVAROA.
Reception at Kaavaroa by Kapiolani. — Visit at Kairua. — Grave of Mrs. Bishop — Preaching in a Grove — Sabbath Evening Scene. — Party on board Ship. — Wife of King Ta- raiopu. — Autobiography by Kapiolani. — Farewell at Kaava- roa 236
LETTER LXIII.
PRIVATE LETTER OF CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE KING.
Notes of the King and Madame Boki. — Interpretation of the names of the Chiefs. — Private Letter of Captain Finch to the King 248
LETTER LXIV.
JOINT LETTER OF THE MISSIONARIES TO CAP- TAIN FINCH, WITH HIS ANSWER 256
LETTER LXV.
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU, AND LETTER OF THE KING TO THE PRESIDENT 264
LETTER LXVI.
RETROSPECTIWE VIEW OF THE VISIT AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, BT CAPTAIN FINCH
X CONTENTS.
LETTER LXVII.
INCIDENTS AT SEA.
Page
Death and Burial at Sea. — Crew of the Vincennes 283
LETTER LXVIII.
ARRIVAL IN THE CHINESE SEA.
Gathering of a Storm. — Christmas-eve at Sea. — Ladrone and Bashee Islands 287
LETTER LXIX.
CASUALTIES OFF THE COAST OF CHINA.
Unhappy Accident. — Fishing Junks. — First Sight of the Chinese. — Aspect of the Islands 290
LETTER LXX.
VISIT AT MACAO AND CANTON.
Dr. and Mrs. Morrison. —Cave of Camoens. —Party to Canton 294
LETTER LXXI.
DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY AND CITY OF MANILLA.
View of Manilla and First Sight of Shore. — Drive on the Calzada. — Native Troops and Music 297
LETTER LXXII.
EVENING SCENES AT A CATHOLIC FESTIVAL, AND CALL UPON A NATIVE FAMILY.
Illuminations. — Indian Cottages. — Costume of the Native Inhabitants. — Familv Scene 302
CONTENTS. XI
LETTER LXXIII.
A VILLAGE FETE.
Page Ride to Santa Anna. — Description of the Bankas, or Native
Canoes. — Scenery on the River Pasig. — Village of Pasig. — Return to Manilla 307
LETTER LXXIV.
THE CAMPO SANTO, OR PANTHEON, THE PUBLIC BURIAL-PLACE.
Santa Magdalena. — Chapel of the Pantheon. — Depository of Bones.— The Calzada 315
LETTER LXXV.
DESCRIPTION OF CAPE TOWN.
Call on the Governor, Sir Lowry Cole. — Public Gardens. — Dr. Philip 320
LETTER LXXVI.
A RIDE TO CONSTANTIA, AND AN EVENING AT PROTEA, THE COTTAGE OF SIR LOWRY COLE.
Ride to Constantia. — The Silver Tree. — Upper Constantia. — Lower Constantia. — Ride to Protea. — Family of the Go- vernor.— Lady Francis Cole. — Lady Catharine Bell 324
LETTER LXXVII.
ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA, AND INTERVIEW WITH GOVERNOR DALLAS.
First View of St. Helena. — Description of James Town. — Reception by Governor Dallas 332
Xll CONTENTS.
LETTER LXXVIII.
THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON, LONGWOOD, AND PLAN- TATION HOUSE.
Page Tomb of Napoleon. — Arrival at Longwood. — Bed -room of
the Emperor. — Reading and Drawing-rooms. — Billiard and Drawing-rooms. — New Longwood-liouse. — Road across the Island.— Plantation-house.— The Dallas Family 337
POSTSCRIPT 349
APPENDIX.
Manuscript left at Nukuhiva by Captain Finch 356
Summary of the Cruise by Captain Finch 358
VISIT
THE SOUTH SEAS.
THE GEORGIAN AND SOCIETY ISLANDS.
LETTER XXXV.
AHRTVAL AT TAHITI.
The Low Islands. — Scenery of Matavai. — Boarded by a Native, and bring1 ship to anchor. — Appearance of the People and effect of the Music — Ellis's Polynesian Re^ searches.
Matavai Bay at Tahiti, August 17, 1829.
A CLUSTER of low islands and coral reefs lies about midway, in a direct line, between the Wash- ington and Georgian groups, rendering the naviga- tion at that point somewhat intricate and dan- gerous. From a supposition that we might be obliged to lie to at night when in that vicinity, we did not expect to accomplish the passage from Nukuhiva to Tahiti — a distance of seven hundred miles — in much less time than a week.
In this, however, we were favourably disappointed.
VOL. II. &
2 THE LOW ISLANDS.
The trade wind proved unusually fine ; and having- made the first of the low islands early on the 14th instant — the second day from Taiohae — we suc- ceeded in running1 by the whole chain the same evening, and,, with an open sea before us, hastened on our course with unchecked speed.
Five of the low islands — the Tikoas, the Palliser, andElizabeth Island — were passed by us within two or three miles of their shores. Elevated a few feet only above the water, scarce in sight at a distance of six and eight miles, and but scantily tufted with groves of the cocoanut and pandanus, they present a strong contrast to the loftiness and magnificent scenery of the groups between which they lie. Though small — some fifteen or twenty miles only in circumference — they are inhabited : but the sub- sistence they afford is scanty and miserable, con- sisting almost exclusively, besides fish from the sea, of cocoanuts and the berry of the pandanus.
Happily for the race dwelling upon them, though reduced in their outward circumstances almost to the condition of the brute, the rich blessing of the gos- pel has reached their desolate shores. Through the influence of native missionaries from Tahiti, they have, within a few years, forsaken their idols and embraced the religion of the cross — have learn-
O
ed to read — possess the scriptures in the Tahitian version — and daily pay their vows to God by hymns and prayer, in neat and humble chapels of their own workmanship.
On Saturday, the 15th instant, at twelve o'clock, we descried Matea, or the Island of Osnaburgh-*-
SCENERY AT MATAVAI. 3
having run some distance from our course to make it. Perceiving it to be only a lofty, volcanic rock, rising abruptly from the water in a truncated cone — once evidently a burning funnel — we did not ap- proach nearer than twelve or fifteen miles; and bore away for Tahiti, the principal of the Georgian Islands, of which we gained an indistinct view, forty miles distant, at sunset the same evening.
Having been under short sail during the night, we were yesterday morning still far from land; and it was ten o'clock before we were near enough to
O
Point Venus to send a boat on shore, previously to bringing the ship to anchor.
The morning was hazy and unfavourable for the strength of impression which the sublimity and loveliness of the scenery is calculated to make.
In this — particularly in reference to my fellow- voyagers — I felt a disappointment. The image left in my mind, by a first sight of the same section of Tahiti in 1825, when on our voyage from the Sand- wich Islands to England, was still so beautiful and so vivid, that I had hoped every circumstance, in making the land at this time, would have been equally propitious to a similar effect on those now with me. Scarce any scene before beheld had excited an admiration equal to that! then experienced. We had not yet made land, xvhen I retired to rest the night previous ; a fine moon, however, enabled us to press on without hazard ; and, at the dawn of the day, we were close on the shores of the district of Matavai. It was not yet sunrise when I went on deck ; but the whole heavens were filled with the
B2
4 BOARDED BY A NATIVE,
glow and richness of the near approach of (( the kin«- of day," and sufficient light was already cast upon the island, not only to disclose its general for- mation, but to present every distinct feature along the coast and in the mountains above, in- the fulness of its verdure and beauty. The wild peaks and bare cliffs towering high in the centre of the island were uncovered, and in strong illumination from the sun, still beneath a watery bed. A belt of vapourish cloud hung midway on the purple sides of the moun- tains beneath, while the rich lowland — a mile and more in width — intervening between their bases and the beach, heavily covered with groves of the bread- fruit, cocoanut, and other luxuriant tropical growth, stood in the purity of the morning, with a refreshing nearness and beauty on the sight.
Spacious chapels of the purest white, with nu- merous lofty doors and windows — seeming in my eye, after a residence of three years at the Sandwich Islands, in the early stages of improvement there, like so many palaces amidst their palmy groves — were seen, at intervals of two and three miles, along the water's edge, while the plastered and whitened habitations of the missionaries and chieftains, and cne cottages of the common people, studded the shores in long perspective, till, at a distance of five and six miles on either side, low points, richly covered with cocoanut trees, terminated the view.
The most conspicuous objects were now still the same; but, with a noon-day sun and misty atmo- sphere, they were seen under every disadvantage of shade and colouring, and excited a less lively
AND BRING SHIP TO ANCHOR. 5
admiration, than they otherwise would have
While two or three miles from Point Venus,, we were boarded by a boat containing' one of the infe- rior magistrates of the district, in a dress of nankeen pantaloons, round jacket of blue silk, white shirt, and black cravat, with a Guayaquil hat. He intro- duced himself with great civility, and tendered his services to pilot the ship into the bay ; but Captain Finch learning from him that there was a regular pilot appointed by the government, declined the offer till he should come off, and till Mr. Lardner, our sailing-master, should go in with a cutter and make some observation for himself, as to the best anchorage.
In the meantime a boat was lowered, and Lieu- tenant Dornin dispatched on a visit to the Rev. Mr. Wilson, the resident missionary at Matavai. Hav- ing a slight personal acquaintance with Mr. Wil- son, I accompanied him. We were received very kindly by this gentleman on the beach, and accom- panied him to his cottage, a few rods distant, on the bank of a considerable river, running from the mountains through this part of the district. Finding him at leisure to go off to the ship, and knowing that our return would be looked for with impatience, after an introduction to Mrs. Wilson and her daugh- ters, and a few moments' conversation, we took our leave till the Vincennes should be at anchor.
The trade-wind was blowing very fresh, with a heavy sea for a small boat, and the row-off was te- dious and unpleasant • we reached the ship without
6 GENERAL APPEARANCE OF
accident, however, and the pilot having- at the same time joined her, we passed round the Dolphin — as a shoal, extending from Point Venus some distance along the shore, is called — and dropped anchor in- side of it, within a mile of the beach, nearly oppo- site a high red bank, called " one tree hill."
Mr. Wilson remained to dinner with the captain, and then landed to secure permission from the proper authorities for the interment of a lad who had died on board, the night previous, of a con- sumption. Some objection was at first made by the natives, lest the disease with which he had died might have been contagious ; but when assured that this was not the case, a grave was prepared in the burial-ground of the chapel ; in which, at sunset, with slow procession and an admonitory service, we deposited the body— there to rest till " time shall be no longer."
I remained at Mr. Wilson's to tea, in company with the captain and surgeon ; and passed most of the evening at'his cottage, in agreeable conversa- tion. It was nine o'clock before we returned to the ship ; the row- off was delightful — a fine moon throwing a double charm,, by its brightness, over the loveliness of the scenery around.
From an early hour in the morning till noon to- day, the Vincennes was crowded with people from the shore, bringing various articles of refreshment and curiosity, for trade and barter. Ignorant of the comparative value of the articles they have to dispose of, and those they wish to secure, and anxious to make the exchange at the highest rate
THE PEOPLE AND EFFECT OF THE MUSIC. 7
of gain on their part, the exorbitance of their de- mands and their seeming cupidity are in some cases such,, as to be exceedingly vexatious to those at- tempting to deal with them ; but, there is nothing of the wild shouting, rudeness, and nakedness, so annoying at Nukuhiva — nor any thing in their whole appearance that is offensive, or indicative of any trait of character not to be found in every market-place in a civilized and Christian country. The effect produced on them by our band, in comparison with that on the Nukuhivans, was very striking, and very pleasing. It is long since they have acquired a taste for the combination of sounds characterizing the music of European countries ; and since, they have learned themselves to sing various parts in sacred music, with correctness and some degree of taste. Though the Nukuhivans would listen to the band for a first time, with a kind of wonder and momentary gratification, it was evi- dent they had no particular relish for the style of music, or harmony of sounds produced by it ; and, doubtless, thought it unequal, in the pleasure it afforded, to the monotonous beat of the drum, and the dull recitative of their own songs — but here, when the musicians were ordered on deck, hundreds clustered round in the manifest expectation of a rich enjoyment ; and the moment they commenced playing, they hung in the rigging and upon the guns, in a silent delight, which none could avoid ob- serving ; while many evidently drank in the strains of varied harmony, with all the luxury of enjoy- ment of so many amateurs at home, at the perform- ance of the first masters in the country.
8 ELLIS'S POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES.
During the forenoon we had a visit from the chief justice of the island — a respectable-looking1, well- dressexl , and dignified old man — at present at Mata- vai for the trial of several persons accused of sedi- tion. He held a court at sunrise this morning* which I should have been glad to have attended, had I been apprized of it in time. Two or three persons wrere convicted of the transgression of spe- cial laws., and received the sentence annexed to the respective statutes broken.
You are aware, that before the death of Pomare II., in 18*21, a regular code of laws — including an equitable judiciary, and the important right of trial by jury — adapted to the state into which the nation had been brought by a conversion from paganism to Christianity, was drawn up by the Rev. Mr. Nott, one of the first missionaries that came to the islands, and adopted by the king and whole body^of chiefs in public council. Every law has a specific penalty attached — rendering the administration of justice, after the guilt of a person is established, perfectly equal : no discretion being left to the judge, in a modification of the sentence. The rehearsal of the law and its penalty, both of which are familiar to the person under trial — as every family is furnished with a printed copy of the code — is the only judg- ment pronounced.
With the " Polynesian Researches" of our be- loved friend Ellis before you, it will be unnecessary, however, for me to enter upon any elucidation of facts of this kind that may come under my notice, during the visit we shall make at the Georgian and Society Islands. The original state of the people
SCENERY ALONG SHORE. 9
as found by the missionaries,, their habits and cus- toms, their religion,, civil polity, and history — in- cluding- the conversion of both groups from idolatry, the establishment of Christianity, and their present condition — are pourtrayed in his volumes with so much talent and such lively interest, with such perfect candour and minute correctness, and in such fulness of information, that I at once refer you to them for every thing connected with this section of the South Seas, except the incidents which may pass under the immediate observation of myself and shipmates, the few days we may remain within its limits.
LETTER XXXVI.
HARBOUR OF PAPEETE.
Scenery along shore. — Sketch of Papeete; Mr. and Mrs.
Pritchard.— Plantation of Mr. Bicknell. — Turnpike at
Tahiti Royal Residence and Tomb of Pomare. —
Schools at the Missionary Stations.
Matavai Bay, at Tahiti, August. 26, 1829.
MR. and Mrs. Wilson and daughters dined with Captain Finch on Monday ; and on Tuesday, a party from the ward-room and steerage, consisting of the Lieutenants Stribling, Dornin, and Lardner, Dr. Wessels, Midshipmen Maury, Keith, Hawkins, and myself, visited the harbour of Papeete, six or seven miles westward of Matavai.
The scenery along the intervening shore, beautiful by nature — both in wild mountain and palmy plain B 3
10 SKETCH OF PAPEETE;,
— is now doubly so, from the neat cottages and lofty chapels, which, at the short intervals of two and three miles, insensibly blend thoughts of civi- lization and piety, with the impressions made on the mind by the luxuriance and grandeur of the natural imagery. We sailed the whole distance within a coral reef, which, shortly after leaving Matavai, lines the coast at half a mile from the beach to the entrance of the harbour, and arrived at Papeete at eleven o'clock.
The bay, about three miles in circumference, is formed by an indenture of the shore between two points covered with groves of cocoanut trees; while the coral reef in front — through which there is an entrance by a narrow ship channel — with a small islet based upon it, protects it so fully from the swell of the sea, that it is at all times as smooth as a lake. The panorama, from the an- chorage, is rich and lovely. A spacious and ele- vated white chapel presents a conspicuous and pleasing object in the centre of the view inland. On one side of this, within a neat inclosure planted with shrubbery, stands the cottage of the resident missionary ; and on the other, corresponding io it, the parish school-house : from both of which the habitations of the natives — some in the primitive and some in the modern style of building — stretch in half embowered perspective along the curvature of the beach, to the cocoanut points, jutting on either hand, at a distance of half a mile or more, in heavy groves towards the reef. Clumps of the orange and lemon tree — of the hibiscus and pan-
MR. AND MRS. PRITCHARD, 11
danus, with rich plantations of the bread-fruit, cocoanut, and broad-leafed banana, and here and there a single tree of the lofty and wide spreading vi — spondias dulcis — fill up the remaining parts of the foreground ; while lofty and abrupt hills, overtopped by bold and verdant mountains, com- plete the sketch interior.
Our party was welcomed on the beach by Mr. Marenhaut, a Dutch gentleman temporarily at Ta- hiti, and by Captain Brock, late commander of an English vessel wrecked on the eastern side of the island — both of whom had visited the Vincennes the first day of her arrival. Learning from them, that the Rev. Mr. Pritchard, the missionary at this station, was quite ill, we accompanied them to their cottage, before calling at the mission-house.
At twelve o'clock, we paid our respects to Mr. and Mrs. Pritchard ; and were delighted with the neatness, taste, and beauty of their humble dwel- ling. Mr. Pritchard, a well-educated and intelli- gent man, though much indisposed, received us with great cordiality and kindness ; and in Mrs. Pritch- ard we were pleased to meet, in this happy and honourable exile, a refined and lovely woman. Their little parlour — though furnished with a plainness and simplicity appropriate to the situation and character of the occupants — wore an aspect of refinement and cultivation that bespoke a fami- liarity with more polished scenes than those in which they are now found. Two fine, healthful, and neatly dressed children, beside their mother on a sofa, added greatly to the charm of a home
12 PLANTATION OF MR. BICKNELL,
scene, so welcome to us, after the exhibitions of heathenism with which we had been conversant at Nukuhiva. An hour passed rapidly away under such circumstances ; when we took leave, to pass over the bay to the islet in front of the harbour, where we had made arrangements to partake a repast, furnished from stores brought with us from the Vincennes.
This is a delightful little spot ; a few rods only in circumference, but covered with groves, in minia- ture, of almost every variety of growth found on the main land. Beneath the thick shade of these, fanned by a refreshing sea breeze, we enjoyed our pic-nic till it became time to return to the ship, as we intended calling on the way at a point two miles above, occupied by Mr. Bicknell, an English planter, and at the missionary station, under th« superin- tendence of the Rev. Mr. Nott, in sight of Matavai.
The habitation of Mr. Bicknell is a respectable new frame building — weather-boarded at the sides and end, with a roof of thatch in the native style — the wooden part being neatly painted in a cream colour, with doors, Venetian blinds, and a covered veranda in green. Within, the arrangement, finish, and furniture, correspond with the neatness, and even elegance, for this part of the world, of the ex- terior: while horses and mules, herds of cattle and flocks of goats in the adjoining enclosures — a sugar mill and boilers, and a warehouse filled with beau- tifully grained sugar, molasses, and rum — testify to the resources and promising circumstances of the proprietor, On landing, in front of the establish-
TURNPIKE AT TAHITI. 13
ment, we were received at the gate and very kindly welcomed by Mr.Bicknell, introduced to Mrs.Bick- nell, and welcomed to the hospitality of his house.
From this point, a part of our number walked along the beach to the residence of Mr. Nott. It was quite dark before we reached his grounds, and we called with the intention of stopping a moment only ; but the kindness and hospitality of himself and wife obliged us to remain to a cup of tea ; and it was late in the evening before, much gratified with our visit, we rejoined our barge, and rowed in safety beneath a lovely sky, the remaining distance to the Yincennes.
On Thursday, I made a second visit to Papeete, with Lieutenants Magruder and Sullivan, and Mid- shipmen Irving, Maury, Taylor, and Anthony. We spent the -day much in the manner of the last ; but in returning young Anthony and myself took a turnpike, whichhasbeen constructed almost entirely around the island — a distance of near a hundred miles — as far as Mr. Nott's, at Pare. This road is a fine and praiseworthy work for such a people — the labour principally of convicts, proved guilty of various breaches of the laws. It is a broad gravel way, extending, for the most part, in a direct line from point to point along the coast, smoothly and well finished, and provided with narrow bridges of plank over the water-courses and streamlets, running from the mountains to the sea. Thickly embowered with luxuriant groves of various trees — skirted here and there with the humble but com- fortable habitations of the islanders — opening oc-
14 ROYAL RESIDENCE AND
casionally upon a bright glade or extensive meadow land,, with fine views of the mountains on one side, and the ocean on the other, it is, in many places, beautiful as a drive in the pleasure grounds of an American mansion., or the park of a gentleman in England.
The distance we travelled over it at this time was about three miles ; and we were treated with great civility and kindness by all whose habitations we passed, and by those met on our way. Within about a mile of Mr. Nott's, a side road leads to the point occupied by the residences of the royal chieftains ; and we turned into it for the purpose of visiting their establishment.
Pomare III., only surviving son of Pomare II., having died in his childhood two years since, while pursuing his education at the South Sea Academy, on the neighbouring island of Eimeo, or Moorea as the natives more frequently call it, was succeeded in the supreme authority of Tahiti, Eimeo, Ta- buae-manu, or Sir George Sanders' Island — which three constitute the Georgian cluster — by an only sister under the style of Pomare Vahine I. of Ta- hiti, or the female Pomare I. of Tahiti. She is now about eighteen, and has been married some years to the eldest son of the prince, or head chief of Tahaa, one of the Society Islands, a hundred miles or more north-west of Tahiti and Eimeo.
Tamatoa, king of Raiatea, the principal island of that group, is the maternal grandfather of the young queen, and she with her husband, mother, and an aunt — both daughters of the king of Raia-
TOMB OF POMARE. 15
tea, and associated in a regency during1 the minority of the queen— is at present on a visit there. We of course did not expect to find any person of much distinction ; and were received by an inferior chief and his wife, left in charge of the establishment during the absence of the party.
These two are a respectable couple of middle age ; and occupy a large, airy, and well-kept house, standing near the sea-side. A Sandwich Island woman is residing with them at present — the wife of an Hawaiian, sent to Tahiti by Governor Boki, of Oahu, as supercargo of the brig Ainoa, in a voyage from which she has just returned to the Sand- wich Islands. The supercargo has remained to dispose of the goods; and is, at present, with the queen's party at the Society Islands, while his wife keeps a shop for the disposal of Chinese goods, blank books, stationery, slates, pencils, &c., and various articles of hardware, all in demand here, and purchased for cocoanut oil and arrow-root. It is not believed, however, from the character of the agent, that this attempt in commercial enter- prize will prove very profitable to the governor. •
The point is covered with majestic and delight- ful groves, beneath which is the habitation of the queen, and the dwellings of her immediate depen- dents. Her house of frame, wattled and plaster- ed, has an entrance hall and four rooms on the ground floor, besides an attic ; and is a neat and comfortable building, but, in the absence of the royal party, unfurnished and shut up.
The mausoleum of Pomare II.— in which the
16 SCHOOLS AT THE
remains of his son Pomare III. are also deposited — like the dwelling of the queen, is a white plas- tered house, in a large enclosure, embowered in the deepest shades of the groves. Near it, a section of the great royal chapel, erected by him after his conversion to Christianity, is still standing ; and is kept in good repair as a school-house. The ori- ginal area of the building was more than seven hundred feet in length, by fifty in breadth.
A short distance farther towards Matavai, on an elevated and conspicuous site, stands the chapel of the Rev. Mr. Nott — a neat, w ell-finished, and even elegant place of worship. It is an oval, ninety- eight feet in length by fifty in breadth, two stories high, with numerous windows furnished with Vene- tian blinds The roof is a beautiful thatch; and the floor, seats, and pulpit neatly wrought from timber of the bread-fruit tree. The whole is of native workmanship ; and would compare to advan- tage, both in appearance and comfort, with most country churches in any part of the United States. We joined the boat again at this spot, and reached the Vinceimes early in the evening.
On a following day, I made the same excursion for a third time, with Captain Finch and a small party. In going we sailed outside the reef, and en- tered the harbour by the ship channel. The only incident of interest, varying this from the preceding visits, was the attendance of an hour at a school under the charge of Mr. Pritchard. The number of scholars was about one hundred and fifty of both sexes, from six to ten and twelve years of age. It
MISSIONARY STATIONS. 17
is established on the monitorial system ; and the ex- hibition made by the pupils of native intelligence, and their proficiency in reading" and writing, in re- hearsing hymns and portions of scripture, in an- swering catechetical questions, and in singing, were such as greatly to interest and gratify us ; and to elicit from Captain Finch — in an address to the scholars, interpreted by Mr. Pritchard — high enco- miums on the attainments they had already made, and warm encouragement to a persevering atten- tion to the means of improvement and intelligence with which they are favoured.
The handwriting of many was quite equal to that of children of the same age in schools in America; and the elder scholars are pursuing an elementary course in arithmetic, geography, and history. Very few district-schools in the interior of our own coun- try, are accommodated with so pleasant, conve- nient, and spacious a school-house; and no school that could be visited would present an appearance of greater neatness in the children, more brightness and happiness of look, modesty of apparel, and order and propriety of deportment. Schools of a similar kind are under the daily superintendence of the missionaries at every station ; and facilities for securing the arts of reading and writing at least, are thus afforded to the whole population.
18 SABBATH SCHOOL
LETTER XXXVII.
A TAHITIAN SABBATH.
Sabbath School at Matavai. — Public Worship and obser- vance of the Sabbath.
Matavai Bay at Tahiti, August 22d, 1829.
THE first missionaries to the Georgian Islands having made the voyage from England by the Cape of Good Hope, without an allowance for the gain of time in sailing eastward, were, on their arrival at Tahiti, a half day and more in advance of visi- tors coming to the islands by Cape Horn. This difference still continues ; and consequently, to-day, though only Saturday, the 22d, in the record on board the Vincennes, is Sunday, the 23d, on shore.
A number of the officers and crew attended the services of Mr. Wilson's chapel, both in the morn- ing and afternoon. The exercises on each occasion were so similar, that I shall speak only of those of the morning worship, which I witnessed, in com- pany with Captain Finch and a party from the ward-room and steerage.
We landed at nine o'clock, previously to which we had seen the people, in large numbers, going to and returning from, a prayer meeting at sunrise. Hearing the sound of recitations in the school-house — a neat and comfortable building between the cot- tage of Mr. Wilson and the chapel — we directed our course to it. A sabbath school, consisting of about one hundred and fifty boys and girls, from the ages
AT MATAVAI. 19
of three and four years to fifteen and seventeen, was here assembled, in \vhich several respectable, mid- dle-aged men acted as teachers and superinten- dents, while others of the same age and character walked along the passages at the sides and centre of the building, holding long, slender rods of the light hibiscus, with which to touch any of the younger scholars, when disposed to be mischievous and troublesome. Many of the parents and friends were also present as spectators.
When we entered, the whole school was repeating the answers of a catechism simultaneously, with great promptitude and correctness. This was fol- lowed by a recitation from the Bible, in which one scholar wrould rehearse a section of a chapter, and another that succeeding — thus alternating from in- dividual to individual, and from class to class, with the greatest readiness ; and manifesting, by the un- hesitating manner in which they continued the ex- ercise from verse to verse, and chapter to chapter, no ordinary tenacity and strength of memory. A hymn was then sung, in which all joined ; when the school was closed with an appropriate prayer by the superintendent. Mrs. Wilson and her daughters were present as teachers and managers of the female scholars ; and in the whole aspect of the school, there was a cleanliness and propriety of dress and personal appearance, and an intelli- gence and order, equal to those found in any of the kind in our own country.
While at prayer,
" The sound of the church-going bell,"
20 PUBLIC WORSHIP AND
with its sweet and elevating associations in the pious mind, began to reach us from a neighbouring grove ; and shortly after, the scholars, in a procession cf two and two — the boys led by a native superinten- dent, and the girls by Mrs. Wilson and her daughters —quietly made their way to a temple of God, founded within the last fifteen years, on the ruins of altars which for time unknown had been steeped in blood. Crowds of islanders, of every grade, were also seen gathering, by well-made gravel walks, leading in various directions, beneath the thick shade of the trees covering the point, to the same spot, all clad in neat and modest apparel, principally white, of their own or foreign manufacture : and exhibiting in their whole aspect, a dignity and res- pectability of character becomingaChristianpeople. Almost every individual had in his hand a copy of the portions of the scripture, translated into the language of the group, and a book of hymns.
The chapel is a large and neat building, one hundred and ten feet long, and forty broad ; lofty, airy, and well finished in all its parts, and wholly of native workmanship. The number of worshippers amounted to about four hundred — the usual con- gregation at this place — including almost entirely the population of the vicinity. The whole appear- ance of the people— their attention and seeming devotion, during the exercises of reading the scrip- tures, singing, prayer, and preaching — was as markedly decorous as would be expected or seen in America or England, and such as to make a deep impression on my own mind. A single glance
OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. 21
around was sufficient to convince the most scep- tical observer of the success and benefit of missions to the heathen ; for it could not be made without meeting the plainest demonstration, that such can be rescued from all the rudeness and wildness of their original condition, can be brought to a state of cleanliness and modesty in their personal appear- ance, can be taught to read and to write — for many,, besides the intelligent and familiar use of the scrip- tures and their hymn book, took notes in pencil of the sermon delivered — in a word, can be transformed into all that civilization and Christianity vouchsafes to man.
After worship we perceived a large portion of the middle-aged and elderly men, and many of the younger to remain in the chapel, while an equal proportion of the females repaired to the school- house. On inquiring the object of this, we learned that it was customary for the members of the church, and persons seriously disposed, to spend a half hour or more after service, in conversation on the subject of the discourse of the missionary, and in prayer for a blessing upon its truth to themselves, and to all who heard it.
Between the hours of public worship, I joined the mission family in an English service of singing, reading, and prayer, in Mr. Wilson's parlour. The greatest quietude reigned around ; and the whole external observance of the day by the natives, in a suspension of all ordinary occupations and amuse- ments, was such as to be worthy the imitation of older and more enlightened Christian nations.
22 PAPKTOAI AND
LETTER XXXVIH.
VISIT TO EIMEO, AND ARRIVAL AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
Papetoai and Afareaitu. — Return to Matavia. — Island of Huahine. — Arrival and anchorage at Raiatea.^Mission- house.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 1st, 1829.
ON the morning1 of the "26th ult. a party, of which I made one, sailed in two boats for the island of Eimeo, or Moorea, twelve or fifteen miles west of Tahiti. The Rev. Mr. Wilson kindly accompanied us in the excursion. On reaching the north end of the island, for w7hich we steered on leaving Matavai, we entered within a reef skirting it at a distance of a quarter of a mile, and passing by the mouth of the bay of Paopao, or Cook's harbour, at present uninhabited, reached the missionary settlement at Papetoai, at the bay of Opunohu, or Talu, a few miles farther west, early in the afternoon.
The scenery along the northern shore is delight- ful, both bays lying cradled, like lakes, in the midst of mountains of the most picturesque wildness, and of the richest verdure. The whole surface of Eimeo is much more broken than that of Tahiti ; and from whatever point viewed, its contour abounds in lofty pinnacles and shafts of wooded rock and mountain. We were received on the beach by the Rev. Mr. Simpson, and most hospitably entertained by him self and lady, and Mrs. Armitage, at their com-
AFAREAITU. 23
fortable dwellings. Mr. Armitage was absent at Afareaitu, a station we afterwards visited on the eastern side of the island.
Papetoai does not differ materially from Matavai and Papeete, in the evidences of civilization and piety it presents. The chapel is very superior, and more substantial than any other building yet erected in the South Seas, being of hewn coral, not dissi- milar in its appearance to a light free-stone or marble. It is an octagon, sixty or seventy feet in diameter, well plastered and whitewashed within, and furnished with convenient seats constructed of the timber of the bread-fruit tree. The gallery, and a handsome pulpit, are of the same material.
Early the next morning we left for Afareaitu, re- turning to the north-east point inside of the reef, and then coasting along the eastern shore, eight or ten miles, to a little islet marking the entrance of the harbour. Afareaitu is a lovely spot, surrounded by magnificent and beautiful objects. The South Sea academy, chapel, and cottages of the natives — stretching in a long line of whiteness around the bay at the water's edge, beneath mountains spring- ing almost perpendicularly more than three thousand feet high — present a delightful scene as you row in from the sea ; and show what additional beauty the hand of art and civilization can scatter over the splendours of natural scenery.
The Rev. Mr. Orsmond, principal of the aca- demy, and Mr. Blossom — associated wdth him in the secular affairs of the institution and of the mis- sionary station — gave us a most cordial and hcs-
24 RETURN TO MATAVAI.
pitable reception. We had the gratification also of meeting Mr. Armitage, who is preparing to remove his family from Papetoai to Afareaitu, and to establish a cotton manufactory at the latter place, after an unsuccessful experiment at the for- mer.
On this subject, however, and on others of a similar kind, as well as on the South Sea Aca- demy, its design, success, &c., I must again refer to the "Polynesian Researches1' of our friend Ellis, in which you will find every desirable in- formation respecting them.
During the afternoon of Thursday, wre made a water party for the missionaries and children of the academy, and visited the islet on the reef in front of the settlement. It commands a beautiful view of bay and mountains ; and I occupied the time we were upon it principally in taking a sketch, to add to the collection already in my portfolio.
Our kind friends furnished us with a repast before dawn on the morning of the 28th ; and immediately after, bidding them farewell, with grateful feelings for the hospitality with which we had been enter- tained, we left the harbour on our return to the ship, while the stars were yet twinkling in the sky. Early in the day, the trade wind set in so freshly that the channel between the islands became very rough ; and we were glad to secure an entrance through the reef, twelve or fourteen miles to the leeward of Matavai. It was in the vicinity of the missionary station occupied by the Rev. Mr. Darling — of whose
ISLAND OF HUAIHINE. 25
residence and printing establishment, chapel, and the habitations of the islanders in the vicinity, we had a fine, though distant sight.
On gaining the harbour of Papeete we landed on the island at its mouth, to partake of some refresh- ment in the coolness of its groves. The necessity of looking to our provision-chest, how ever, was antici- pated by the arrival of Mr. Pritchard in his boat from the shore, with one or two attendants bearing a tray of delicacies, politely furnished by Mrs. Prit- chard, who, aware of the necessity we should be under of returning by Papeete, and of the probabi- lity of our arriving weary and exhausted, had in this manner kindly borne us in mind. On re-em- barking we called at the mission-house to make our acknowledgments, and left in time only to reach the Vincennes, at a seasonable hour in the evening.
On the first sabbath we were at Matavai, Mr. Pritchard preached on board the Vincennes, and with the Rev. Mr. Crook, from a distant station on the southern side of the island, spent the day with us : and on the last, Mr. Pritchard, Mr. Wilson, Mr. Marenhaut, and Captain Brock, were at worship, and dined on board. In the evening Mr. Stribling and myself went on shore to take leave of Mrs. Wilson and her daughters ; and at ten o'clock on Monday the Vincennes took her anchor, and bore away for the Society Islands, a hundred miles distant.
It was the intention of Captain Finch to have touched at Huahine, the most eastern of this group ; and last evening, after passing Tabuae-manu, at
VOL. II. C
26 ARRIVAL AND ANCHORAGE
too great a distance to discern it distinctly, I re- tired to my cot, with the pleasing anticipation of making an early visit on shore at Fare, the sta- tion and settlement in pastoral charge of the Rev. Mr Barff, long the colleague and still the intimate friend of Mr. Ellis. The wind, however, was light and unfavourable during the night, and by morning we had fallen so much to the leeward of the whole island, that it was determined to proceed without delay to Raiatea, also in sight. I wras greatly disappointed ; and could scare feel reconciled to the idea of not visiting, at least for an hour, the scene of the principal residence in the South Seas of one I so highly respect and so sincerely love.
Huahine, though not so wild in contour, is equally verdant and beautiful in its general ap- pearance as Eimeo — and its characteristic features very like the central sections of Oahu, at the Sandwich Islands. When nearest to it, we were not more than ten miles from its western shore, with this island and Tahaa on the north of it, in full view — while Borabora, a fourth in the group, appeared loftily but dimly in the distance.
By twelve o'clock we had approached so near the northern end of Raiatea, as to distinguish the chapel and cottages of the settlement, with a flag- staff and the banner of the nation — a broad hori- zontal stripe of white between two of red — flying from its top. At the same time a native pilot boarded us, and carrying the ship through a nar- row opening in the reef, with a small island on
AT RAIATEA. _,
either hand, brought us safely to anchor opposite the village, a mile and a half north of the en- trance by which we had passed within the reef.
We are in the midst of another varied and* beautiful panorama. The ship lies within a short distance of the shore, which is richly edged with groves and single trees, and a fine undergrowth of the banana, sugar-cane, and various shrubbery, surrounding and overhanging the white cottages of the inhabitants. These stand thickly, in regular lines along a single street, two miles or more in length, and are backed by abrupt hills, covered with grass and bushes, till they rise into a bold cliff with a flattened top, standing high above the settlement, and forming a striking landmark in approaching the island on the eastern side. Beneath this, on the north, several low points luxuriantly clothed and spotted with dwellings, jut far into the channel, — while beyond them, at a distance of twenty miles, the lofty and shell-like peaks of Borabora tower against the sky, in a blueness almost equal to its own.
Eastward of this island, and within half the dis- tance, the green points of Tahaa, inclosed in the same reef with Raiatea, stretch, like the spread fin- gers of a hand, into the sea — the only object on it, in distinct view, being a stately chapel, which rises like a palace on the eye, against the darkness of the hills behind. Still further in the east lies the open ocean, separated from us only by the reef — a few hundred rods distant — on which a never- ceasing surf rises, crests, and breaks, in a thousand c 2
*28 MISSION-HOUSE.
forms of varied beauty, as it sends its voice " of many waters" far along- the echoing shore. While behind us are the tufted islets, marking- the passage by which we entered, with numerous palmy points along the coast of Raiatea, and Huahine across a wide channel in the distance.
Our arrival attracted little attention ; riot a canoe came off, nor did any collection of persons on the shore,, or other appearance., indicate the childish excitement usual among uncivilized people on such occasions. From the pilot we learned that Tamatoa, the king of Raiatea, and the whole royal party from Tahiti, were at the adjoining island of Tahaa ; and it was not till the cool of the evening that any of the ship's company landed. I then went on shore with several gentlemen of the ward-room.
The landing is on a substantially laid quay of coral, where we met an intelligent lad of twelve years — the son of Rev. Mr. Williams, the mis- sionary of the station. He informed us that his father was at the chapel, delivering a customary weekly lecture ; and on directing our walk up the street, we met and returned with him to the mis- sion-house, and were introduced to Mrs. Williams and her family. Their establishment is more neat and rural, and more comfortable in its whole arrangement, than any we have before seen. The house is large and convenient — -having three plea- sant rooms in front, opening by large folding doors on a veranda extending the entire length of the building — and commands, across an enclosure
RESIDENCE OF THE KING. 29
filled with shrubbery, fruit, and flowers, a fine view of the ocean. Every thing1 around looked neat and prosperous ; and, on taking1 a walk through the village, we found the same features marked, in a greater or less degree, on the habi- tations and appearance of the people every where. Still, we are told, that the evidences of improve- ment in the arts and manner of life here, are not equal to those exhibited at the neighbouring- island of Huahine.
On a long coral wharf, near the resident ^ of the king — and from that circumstance called the king's wharf- a small vessel of Mr. Williams' is under- going repairs, and the keel of another, of forty or fifty tons, belonging to the king, is laid. The timbers in both are of the tamanu — inophyllunt callophyllum—di native tree, thought equal to the American live oak for ship- building; and the work- men, islanders under the direction of an English carpenter.
LETTER XXXIX.
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING TAMATOA, AND A SABBATH AT RAIATEA.
Residence of the King. — Queen of Raiatea and King Tamatoa. — The Queen's cottage and household.— Sab- bath and Communion service.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 5th, 1929. MR. Williams called upon Captain Finch and the officers of the ship, early on the morning after our
30 QUEEN OF RAIATEA
arrival, and there has been since a daily and al- most hourly interchange of civility and kindness between the Vincennes and mission-house. Some of our number spend every evening1 on shore ; and Mr. and Mrs. Williams and family, and Mrs. Hunter, the wife of a Captain Hunter, at present on the South American coast, have passed a day with us on ship-board.
Learning that the wife of the king had not ac- companied him to Tahaa, Captain Finch and my- self paid her a visit on the morning of the 3d in- stant. The king's house is a respectable building of frame, wattled, plastered, and whitewashed, in the manner now extensively introduced throughout the Georgian and Society Islands. It is in the cottage style, of one story, with a roof of thatch, and has four rooms on the floor — one large and airy, used as a reception hall, and the others smaller, appropriated as sleeping and dres&ing apartments. The former has four glazed windows and two large doors — one in panels of wood opening on the street, and 'the other of glass, towards the sea, from which it is separated by a small enclosure of grass and shrubbery.
We were shewn into this, while the queen, who was at another residence, was informed of our wish to see her. The wood work is neatly painted, the floors covered with fine mats, and the walls lined with settees of native workmanship, from the tim- ber of the bread-fruit, with seats and backs of beautifully braided cord of the fibre of the cocoa- nut husk. We took the liberty of opening the
AND KING T A MA TO A.
doors of the adjoining rooms, and found them all furnished with well-made bedsteads, covered with several thicknesses of soft mats, in place of mattresses, and spread with counterpanes of India print. A drapery of white tapa, or native cloth, around the windows and on canopies over the beds, gave an air of great neatness and comfort to the whole.
O
Many of the cottages of the common people, into which we looked, bear both within and without, similar marks of order and respectability.
The queen soon arrived attended by four or five pretty looking young women, in European dresses. She is fifty or sixty years of age, and highly re- spectable in her appearance, with traces of early beauty still discoverable in her features and ex- pression of countenance. Her dress was a loose slip of white cambric, with a pau, or native petti- coat, of blue and white, in cross-bar, over it ; and a long shawl and straw bonnet. She is very sedate in her manners, and deported herself with great propriety during the interview. Immediately after the arrival of the Vincennes, an express had been dispatched for the king, and she informed us, that he would probably reach Raiatea early the same evening.
This was the case ; and yesterday morning, Cap- tain Finch, accompanied by the surgeon and Lieu- tenants Dornin, Magruder, Lardner, and myself, waited upon him. We were received in the same room as on the preceding day ; and the interview with Mr. Williams, as interpreter, was interesting and pleasant. Tamatoa, without being corpulent,
32 THE QUEEN'S COTTAGE
is one of the tallest and largest men I ever saw ; standing-, when he rises — in gigantic proportions of limb and muscle — fully a head and shoulders above all around him. He is dignified in his man-
O
ner, and converses with much good sense and intel- ligence. The captain informed him of the general objects of the visit of the Vincennes to the South Seas ; of the policy he was instructed by our go- vernment, and desirous himself to pursue ; and tendered the services of the ship, in any manner he might wish, during the period of our stay. He expressed himself much gratified, and thankful for the kindness of the government, and the politeness of the commander of the man-of-war.
On our way to the mission-house, afterwards, we made a second call upon his wife, at a house occu- pied by her during the visit of the queen of Tahiti, to whom she has relinquished the use of the prin- cipal royal establishment. The building is a fine specimen of the original native style of architec- ture— an oval some sixty feet in the longest dia- meter— surmounted by a beautiful roof of thatch, ten or twelve feet high at the eaves, and twenty or more in the centre. The sides and ends are com- posed of straight, round poles, fastened perpendi- cularly in the ground, and lashed together at regu- lar intervals of an inch, so as to admit an abun- dance of light and air within. The poles being of a white wood, and the thatch finished with the great- est neatness, the whole has a very pretty aspect -t and would furnish a model for a rustic pavilion, or summer house, in a park at home. The ground
AND HOUSEHOLD. 33
strewn with grass and laid with mats, constituted the floor.
We found the queen, like those of " olden time," in the midst of her maidens, at work — not at the loom or embroidering frame — but in weaving the more beautiful of the mats manufactured at the islands. That which she was herself platting, not being so fine as some of the rest, she apologized for it, by remarking, that when young, no one excelled her in the art, but now that she was old, she was incapable of rivalling others. The ex- ample of occupation and industry thus presented in the household of the first female in the nation, was pleasing and praiseworthy ; and she seemed gratified by the commendation it called from our party. Both the king and queen are very decidedly and sincerely pious; and I observed, with pleasure, a Testament and hymn book lying within reach of each of the females at work— evidently for use and not display, as our visit was entirely unex- pected to them, and not intended by ourselves till at the door of the house.
In the evening, Tamatoa took tea with Lieute- nant Stribling and myself, at the mission-house ; and is manifestly a sensible, dignified, and truly Christian ruler.
To-day has been the sabbath on shore. The chapel here, like all we saw at the windward group, is large, well-built, and a noble edifice, for such a people. It is not less than a hundred and twenty feet in length, and proportionately wide, calculated to seat two thousand hearers. The usual congrega- c3
34 SABBATH AND
tion varies from a thousand to twelve hundred. The number assembled to-day amounted to about eleven hundred ; all well and neatly clad, and exhibiting in their whole appearance and manner of attending the service, every characteristic of civilization, re- spectability, and piety, found in any common con- gregation in the United States. But for the colour of the audience, indeed, it would have been difficult for any one to believe himself worshipping with those, who, till within a few years, had been lost in all the gross vice, licentiousness, and wildness of paganism. The sight was at once delightful and affecting.
The dress of the men, from the king to the most unimportant individual present, consisted of a white shirt, and black silk or coloured cravat, with a fine fringed mat, several yards in length, or a piece of muslin or calico of the same size, wrapped loosely from the loins to the knee, in a manner to resemble the drawers or trowsers of the eastern nations. A straw hat worn out-doors finished the attire. The females, in general, were in white muslin slips, with larofe mantles of calico or of native cloth over them,
o y
and bonnets of straw. Many, however, were dressed altogether in the European fashion, except the un- becoming deficiency in our eyes, of shoes and stock- ings— a luxury scarce attainable by the first chief- tains in the group.
The old queen was conspicuous, in a white India muslin, handsomely made, with yellow silk hand- kerchief, fine ruff, satin sash, and modish strawr hat and trimmings — a present from the governor of New
COMMUNION SERVICE. 35
South Wales. In many accidents of feature and manners, this individual is uncommonly like one of the most distinguished of our elderly female friends. Captain Finch and a dozen of the officers at- tended the chapel in the morning. Arrangements had heen made to take the band along, to play a few pieces of sacred music at intervals in the service, for the gratification of many, who would have no other opportunity of witnessing the performance of the musicians. The exercises began, as on board ship, with the Portuguese hymn. I wras fearful that the novelty might occasion some confusion : but it did not in the least. There was not the slightest
O
unbecoming excitement ; not even among the chil- dren, who took their seats together, as they entered in long procession from the sabbath school.
It was the day of the communion ; and after the general congregation had been dismissed, about three hundred of both sexes, and of a variety of ages, with solemnity, and seemingly deep interest, partook of the emblems of the broken body and shed blood of Him who grave his life a ransom for
O
many. Much as the sincerity and piety of the church members in the islands have been doubted by the calumniators of the mission, from all I have ob- served and known, and from all passing before me on this occasion, I was led to the fervent prayer, that I might myself, at last, be equally worthy, with many of these, of a seat at the marriage sup- per of the Lamb.
Mr. Striblingand myself spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Williams. This we almost invariably
36 ROYAL PARTY.
do ; and never without being- deeply impressed by hearing, in the stillness of the night, the melody of the native hymn falling- on the ear, in various direc- tions, from the little cottages of islanders, as they engage in their evening devotions. Family worship, consisting of the reading of a portion of scripture, of a hymn, and of prayer, is universally practised, not only in llaiatea, but throughout the whole nation.
LETTER XL.
AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN OF TAHITI, AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP.
Royal party. — Shrewdness of the Regent. — Meeting- of the Landowners and Speech of Uaeva. — Reception on hoard ship. — Governess of Huahine.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 8th, 1829.
ON the evening of the 6th inst., the queen of Tahiti, the dowager her mother, an aunt holding the office of regent, with a train of inferior chief- tains, and a suite of followers, said to be the most lawless company in the two groups, arrived in two small vessels from Tahaa ; and on the succeeding morning a visit of ceremony was paid to the party, by Captain Finch and a number of the officers of the Vincemies.
The reputation of the Tahitian chieftains is far from being unspotted. The regent and dowager are both excommunicated members of the church ; and
AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN. 37
the young queen's character, according to common report, is not sans reproche. Their whole appear- ance, however, was most decorous • and surpassed, in respectability, every anticipation we had been led to entertain. The interview took place in the apart- ment already described, in the residence of king Tamatoa — the only alteration consisting in new mats on all the sofas, and in the introduction of two armed chairs at the upper end, as seats of ho- nour for the young queen, Pomare, and her aunt the regent.
We were introduced in the order of rank ; and found the court to consist of Pomare Vahine I., Ariipaea regent, Tereomoemoe queen dowager — both daughters of the king of Raiatea, the governess of Huahine, also his daughter — with their husbands — king Tamatoa and his wife, the governor of Ta- haa, and several inferior chieftains, with four or five children, male and female, descendants of Tamatoa. Indeed, he is the patriarch of the whole number, being either the father, grandfather, uncle, or grand-uncle, by blood or marriage, of every chief person present. They were all dressed in European costume, varying in the expensiveness of the mate- rials; and more or less complete in the articles constituting a full suit.
Mr Williams, at the request of Captain Finch, attended as interpreter, and gave a full exposition of the nature and object of the visit of the Vincennes. The regent presided, the young queen saying no- thing except through her, and then only in mono- syllables. She is still young — only seventeen — of
38 SHREWDNESS OF THE REGENT.
good figure and agreeable face,, especially when smiling or in conversation, when she is better look- ing than most females we have seen since leaving the Washington Islands.
While at Tahiti a complaint,, well founded as we ascertained,, had been made to Captain Finch of the conduct of the queen and regent, in refe- rence to some deserters from an American whale- ship — natives of the Sandwich Islands, but regu- larly shipped members of the crew — which he thought necessary and desirable to bring forward. The subject evidently was not an agreeable one to the persons principally concerned ; and we were quite amused at the adroit manner in which the regent attempted to screen herself and the queen, from the censure to which she perceived they were exposed. The most wily diplomatist could scarce have exhibited more tact in turning to good ac- count an unfavourable aspect of things, or greater ingenuity in avoiding an unpleasant dilemma. After having placed the subject in a light calculated to prevent a recurrence of similar conduct, the mat- ter was pleasantly dismissed by the captain ; and the official part of the audience closed, by an invi- tation to the whole company to visit the ship the next day.
The conference being thus ended, the king of Raiatea and his queen, accompanied by the dowa- ger and regent of Tahiti, retired to one of the inner apartments, and returned shortly after laden with beautiful mats and native cloth, which they placed, as a present, at the feet of the captain ;
MEETING OF THE LANDOWNERS. 39
the regent giving- that which she bore, in the name of the young queen. At the same time, the street door was thrown open, and the steward of the queen's household stepping in, with an oratorical attitude and loud voice, pointed to a large quan- tity of provisions — cocoanuts, bananas, taro, pota- toes, &c., with several hogs — placed in full view ; and enumerating the whole in order, submitted them to the disposal of the captain, as a gift from his mistress to himself and officers.
When about taking leave, we were informed that a regular monthly meeting of the secondary chiefs, or landholders, for the discussion of topics of public importance, was then taking place in the chapel ; and, that a messenger had arrived inviting our attendance.
This class of chiefs in Raiatea consists of eight
O
or ten individuals — tall and largely framed men, without an excess of corpulence ; and dignified and highly respectable in their appearance and whole deportment. They are the staunch friends and supporters of all the institutions of civilization and piety, and evidently the very bones and sinews of the land. After being seated among them, several of the number, in short but animated and appropriate speeches, expressed the great pleasure it gave them to see a ship from the government of the United States at their island, and the happi- ness they had experienced in learning the kind sentiments and in observing the amiable and con- descending deportment of Captain Finch — asking, in conclusion, any advice he might think proper to
40 SPEECH OF UAEVA.
address to them. In return, he assured them of every kind feeling1 towards themselves and people — testified to the interest and satisfaction with which he regarded the improvements and advances in civilization they had made,, and encouraged them to unwearied attention, both in themselves and in their children, to the means of knowledge with which they were favoured; and to the enactment and enforcement of wholesome laws. On which Uaeva, one of the most distinguished of the num- ber, made the following reply ;
" Chieftain and Friend,
" This is my speech to you. Great has been the joy of our hearts since your arrival among us, because of the kindness of your object in this visit. We greatly rejoiced on the sabbath day, for your presence with us in worshipping the Lord : and in bringing your band of beautiful music to unite with us in praise. This made our hearts very glad.
tf You are now advising us, and strengthening us in our small and feeble government — you are encouraging us in the acquisition of letters and in the formation of laws : this is good. Should any thing prevent the benefit of this encourage- ment in the affairs of our government, still may your great nation countenance and promote the work of God among us Gentiles; and patronize our teachers in doing their good work.
" Health and salvation to yourself, chieftain, and to all the nobles and Christians of America !"
The incidents of the morning had a tendency
RECEPTION ON BOARD SHIP. 41
to elevate our ideas of the state of the country, and of the true character of the people : and after some refreshments at the mission-house we re- turned on board much gratified with all we had seen and heard.
At the request of the queen the band was sent on shore for an hour or two in the afternoon ; and a kind of concert and oratorio given in the chapel,, attended by the missionaries, many of the officers of the Vincennes, and a large concourse of royalty and plebeianism. The entertainment seemed highly gratifying to all : and as it had been a kind of gala day,, rockets and fireworks were set off on board ship in the evening — a novelty to all on shore except the Tahitians.
Early this morning the ship was in order to re- ceive our guests, and boats dispatched at ten o'clock to fetch them on board. The queen of Tahiti was handed over the side by the captain — the guard of marines presenting arms, and the band playing " Hail, Columbia." After the whole number had been escorted to the poop deck, a salute of fifteen guns was fired, during which we had proof that delicate nerves are not confined to the polished side of the globe. Many of the female noblesse of the party were greatly agitated ; the good old queen of Raiatea sank to the deck, and I believe actually went to prayer ; while her majesty of Tahiti, hanging on the captain's arm in front of the rest, stood the first two or three guns forward very well, but as the gunners touch- ed off the battery farther and farther aft, she be-
42 GOVERNESS OF HUAHINE.
gan to retreat with a finger in each ear, but laugh- ing',, and exclaiming " maitail maitai!" — "good! good /" with a tremulous and terrified voice.
In a fashionable black satin dress, with deep ruff of thin muslin, a golden girdle and clasp, and a handsome round hat of fine straw trimmed with rib- bons and flowers, she made quite a genteel appear- ance. Most of the others were equally well dressed.
The governess of Huahine I found to be one of the most intelligent of the company. We had quite an animated conversation before dinner, in which she exhibited a greater degree of information than I had expected. She appeared fully to understand the difference of government in the United States and at the islands — knew the elective nature of the presidential office — inquired the name of the pre- sent incumbent, and asked whether it was probable he would be chosen for another term, &c. &c. The general state of the Sandwich Islands is also familiar to her. She corresponds with some of the chiefs there, and says that the princess Harrieta is a very fine and pious girl — that it is feared the young king, her brother, may become dissipated — that Governor Boki is not very good, &c. The ex-queen Kekauruohi — a wife of Tamehameha L, and afterwards of his son Rihoriho or Tamehameha II. — is one of her friends ; and from her she has just received letters, with a box of presents — con- taining, among other articles, a boy's suit of crim- son silk velvet, worn by one of the little chieftains on the present occasion.
This female and her husband, one of the finest
43
looking- men of the party, are both consistent and zealous members of the church. Speaking- of the wealth and power of England and America,, in com- parison with the Islands, she remarked,, that they were a poor people, but in the arts of reading- and writing, and in a knowledge of the word of God, they still had the highest blessings : adding, that all the people, however, did not love these, and that she supposed it was in America and in England as it was with them — that some were good and some were bad — some regarding and some disobeying the laws of God.
LETTER XLI.
COMMUNICATION OF POMARE VAHINE I. TO THE PRESIDENT.
Letter of the Queen to the President. — Religious conference and speech of a Church member.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 16th, 1829. THE queen of Tahiti and party called on board this morning, after having embarked on their re- turn to Tahaa. The appearance of the rabble, constituting a principal part of her train, in con- trast with that of most of the islanders we have seen, either at the Georgian group or at this place, goes far to prove the reputed licentiousness of her household ; and detracts greatly from the good impression made by the respectability and propriety of her personal deportment.
44 LETTER OF THE QUEEN
A principal object in visiting" the Vincennes, was to commit to Captain Finch' a letter she has writ- ten to the President — of this Mr. Williams has furnished the following1 translation :
" Raiatea, September 26th, 1829. " President,
" In consequence of your kindness I write a let- ter to you. You sent a man-of-war formerly to our land, commanded by Captain Jones ; he treated us with great kindness. You have now sent another man-of-war, commanded by Captain Finch ; his kindness to us has also been great ; we are highly pleased with his visit. I now write to you to ex- press my gratitude ; also to inform you of 'nir present state.
. " I am a female — the first queen of Tahiti — Queen Pomare I. is my name. I am daughter to Pomare II. When he died the government de- volved on my little brother — he died, the govern- ment then became mine. I am young and inex- perienced.
" We have cast away the worship of idols, and have embraced the worship of our common Lord. In the year 1814 we embraced Christianity.
" We have missionaries on the island who are diligent in teaching us that which will promote our welfare. Some have been with us upwards of thirty years.
" We have laws by which we are governed. I cannot send you a copy, I being on a visit to my grandfather at Raiatea.
" Tahiti and Eimeo are the largest islands in my
TO THE PRESIDENT. 45
government. We have not many people — perhaps ten thousand.
ee There is not much property at my island — arrowroot and cocoanut oil are the principal. We have abundance of food, and excellent harbours for ships: many American vessels call at Tahiti — tell them to continue to call, and we will treat them well.
" All kinds of cotton cloth are in demand here for barter — white, printed, blue shawls, ribbons, axes, are all good property to bring, to procure refreshments.
" We have a new flag given us by Captain Lawes, of the Satellite, British man-of-war ; will you kindly acknowledge it in traversing the seas, and in visiting you, as yours is by us — should that be the case at a distant period.
" Captain Finch has made myself, and mother, and aunt, with others, some handsome presents in your name, for which receive my gratitude. We are always glad to see American vessels at Tahiti. Continue to sail your vessels without suspicion. Our harbours are good, and our refreshments abundant.
tf Prosperity attend you, President of the United States of America — may your good government be
of long duration.
" QUEEN POMARE I."
• Tamatoa, the king of Raiatea, has also pre- pared a communication of similar import, to be transmitted to the president by Captain Finch. Lieutenant Stribling and myself attended a
46 RELIGIOUS CONFERENCE.
meeting this afternoon, held weekly by Mr. Wil- liams, with those of his congregation who have been baptized. It is the intention of this gentle- man, in the course of a few months, to make an extensive voyage among the islands west of the Georgian and Society groups ; and to carry with him a number of the natives of Raiatea, of es- tablished piety, to be left as teachers, wherever it may be found practicable. Eight of his pa- rishioners have given their names to him in view of this enteqmze ; and he chose this opportunity to communicate the fact to the members of the church ; and to ask their opinion of the fitness of the individuals for the undertaking, and the pro- priety of their entering upon it.
The introduction of the subject led to a number of sensible and excellent speeches. One of them contained a very pretty allusion to the visit of the Vincennes, and the policy of Captain Finch, with an application to the contemplated voyage of Mr. Williams. It was much as follows : (< A large man-of-war is nowT with us. She has come from afar with kind motives and designs of good to our- selves and those like us. Her object is to learn our condition and to encourage us to seek our own welfare. Her officers have their reward : they are covered and crowned with gold ; they wear gol on their shoulders and gold on their heads, (allud ing to the lace and epaulets of their uniform) ; it i their reward, My sentiment is, that we too sen out a vessel to those more ignorant and poor than ourselves, to do them good. Those of
ASPECT OF BORABORA. 47
who o-o on this expedition will not, like these our friends, be crowned with gold for their reward. No ! they will receive nothing in this world per- haps, still they shall be crowned. Yes, their's shall be the crown of eternal life, to be given them, at last, by their Lord and Master Jesus Christ!" The evening has been spent, as usual, at the mission-house. I have become much attached both to Mr. and Mrs. Williams. Mrs. Williams is an amiable and intelligent woman, well educated and of good manners ; and Mr. Williams is admirably fitted, in every respect, for a missionary ; and long has been, and still is the instrument of immense good among this people.
LETTER XLII.
DEPARTURE FOR THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
General aspect of Borabora. — Misrepresentations of the State of the Islands. — Contrast between their former and present condition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, at sea, Sept. 14th, 1829.
YESTERDAY morning we hove short before breakfast ; and at nine o'clock took our anchor to bid farewell to the Society Islands. A native pilot, a fine-looking and respectable man, conducted the ship to the open sea. Mr. Williams also politely accompanied us beyond the reef.
The egress from the harbour is not by the pas-
48 ASPECT OF BORA BORA.
sage through which we entered, but round the north end of the island, six or eight miles from the set- tlement, on the opposite side. The channel is of easy and safe navigation, and the regular trade wind fair the whole distance. After gliding past the reef, and exchanging affectionate salutations with Mr. Williams, we filled away in the direction of Borabora, twenty-five miles distant. This island is of a striking contour, and readily distinguished from any other of the group by a central moun- tain, rising aim st perpendicularly on every side, a height of more than two thousand feet. It is par- tially divided into two elevations or shafts, with a curvature on the southern side from the base to the top, giving it the appearance at a distance of a thin shell of rock.
There is a ship channel between Borabora and Tahaa, fifteen miles south-east of it ; but we passed to the westward of both, and then ran north, with Maurua, the most leeward of the cluster, in sight, at a distance of thirty miles. Before evening we were near Tubai, a small coral island covered with cocoanut and pandanus, the last of the group ; and at sunset, took a departure from it, with the hope of a speedy run over the two thousand fiv hundred miles separating us from the Sandwi Islands.
From the outline of our visit at the Georgia and Society Islands, which I have thus given, you
will perceive, dear H , that I have left you t
consult the recent publication of Mr. Ellis for a that is most important in the history, present state
iic ve
:
MISREPRESENTATIONS. 49
and prospects of their inhabitants. In the letters I have written, however, there is sufficient evidence, t trust, to prove them decidedly and interestingly a civilized and Christian people ; and to present a conclusive and delightful demonstration of the power of the gospel on the nature, habits, and life of untutored man.
Their geographical location is such that it may be long before they rise, as a nation, to any great degree of commercial or political importance, or by agricultural improvements beyond those intro- duced in supply of a home consumption, and by trade become richly furnished with the luxuries of wealth and refinement. Still they possess every resource essential to the competence, comfort, and respectability of this life, while a knowledge of the Revelation of God, and the means of grace, unfold to them the hope and immortality of that which is to come. Their chapels and schools, their ha- bitations and dress, their Bibles and their hymn books, their family circles and domestic altars-, with a freedom from public licentiousness and open crime, speak volumes, in contrast with the state in which they once were, for the happiness they now enjoy.
If the aspect of the people in general, and the animated declaration and lively sensibility, even to tears seemingly of deep feeling, of those who have a full remembrance, and who largely shared in their own experience of the evils of heathenism, are to be accredited, the islanders themselves are far from being insensible to the benefit and bles-
VOL. II. D
50 CONTRAST BETWEEN THE
sing" of the change they have experienced ; and would not for worlds be deprived of the light and mercy they have received, or again be subjected to the mental and moral darkness, and various degradation from which they have escaped.
Yet there are those who have visited the South Seas — men bearing the Christian name, with a reputation for science, and holding stations of ho- nour, who have affected to discover a greater de- gree of depravity, and more wretchedness at Ta- hiti and Raiatea, than was known in the reign and terror of idolatry ; and have ventured to proclaim to the world, that Christianity has here, for the first time in eighteen hundred years, had the effect of rendering the inhabitants vindictive arid hateful, indolent and corrupt, superstitious and unhappy, and more pitiable in all their circumstances, than when fully in a pagan state ! And that the wars intro- duced and encouraged by the MESSENGERS OF PEACE, have nearly exterminated the race !
Whence the data for such a sentiment could have been drawn, must for ever remain a mystery, at least to all who, like ourselves, have had the advantage of a personal observation in the case.
The last wars in the islands were previous to any influence gained: by the missionaries over either chiefs or people. Since the establishment of Chris- tianity there has been an uninterrupted peace ; and as to other bloodshed, the Rev. Mr. Nott assure< me, that he had not heard of a murder among the natives for fifteen years.
Theft is occasionally known, though we met with
FORMER AND PRESENT CONDITION. 51
no evidence of it ; and instances of secret vice and licentiousness doubtless occur; and may, when dili- gently sought, be found — though not honourably boasted of — by foreign visitors ; but do these facts justify the assertion of a general and utter depra- vity ? and do they forfeit the claim of the nation to the epithet, pure morals, and genuine piety of a Christian people? As well might the traveller, in visiting New York or London, because he has suf- fered from a thief or discovers a haunt of debau- chery, gravely state in his journal, that there is not an honest man or a virtuous woman in the United States, or in Great Britain — an assertion which I have heard made of the Society Islands — and that the state of the one nation is worse than in the time of the Druids, and of the other, than when the red man alone prowled in her forests.
Such a presentation of the state of this people can arise only from gross ignorance of their original condition, and from a very limited personal expe- rience of the high happiness connected with the moral habits and spiritual affections of sincere piety. What were the characteristics, I would ask, — not now discoverable in the islanders — to be seen when they were in a state of heathenism ? Only such as would be exhibited in connection with facts, such as the following — facts to which I have, at the Sand- wich Islands, when they were in a similar condition, myself been an eye-witness. A vessel would scarce have dropped her anchor before she would have been surrounded and boarded by crowds of hoot- D 2
52 CONTRAST BETWEEN THE
ing arid shouting savages — men and women, almost, if not entirely, in the nakedness of nature, testify- ing their joy in a prospect of gain from the visitor, by every variety of rude noise and levity : and this only in prelude to a licentiousness of intercourse, extending frequently from the cabin to the fore- castle, too gross to be named, while pilfering and dishonesty in every form, — filth, vermin, and dis- ease followed in the train. Such would be the exhibitions on ship-board — and what would be the character of those on shore?
No neatly whitened European cottage would meet the view, beneath the foliage of their groves, nor lofty temple invite the admiration of the eye, while it raised the thoughts to heaven ; the hum of no thriving school would come like music on the intelligent ear, nor the hymn of devotion be heard floating on the breeze : but the putridity of a corpse, lying in cruel sacrifice before an idol of wood or stone, would direct to the altar of their gods, while the shouts and wild sounds of the song and dance, and the beating of drums, would pro- ' claim a scene of revelry and sin.
And could the veil be removed from all the ini- quity of the system under which they dwelt, be- sides the terrors of superstition by which they were burdened, and the many goading evils arising from a slavery both of mind and soul, abominations would be disclosed against which the eye would revolt in involuntary disgust — while the shrieks of victims torn from their midnight slumbers to be
FORMER AND PRESENT CONDITION. 53
hurried to a terrific death, and the plaintive moan- ings of infants, writhing in the agonies of dissolu- tion, beneath the murderous grasp of an inhuman parent, would
" Wake the nerve where agonies are born,"
and fill the soul with a horror not readily to be forgotten !
SANDWICH ISLANDS. LETTER XLIII.
ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF HAWAII. First sight of Hawaii. — Land in a small boat.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, off Hawaii, October 2d, 1829.
AFTER a passage of eighteen days from Raiatea — including- four of a dead calm, previously to taking- the north-east trade wind — yesterday after- noon, at 5 o'clock, " land ho /" was called from the mast-head.
I had been anxiously gazing, for an hour, from one of the quarter-boats, at a mass of clouds and mist on our lee-bow, expecting the outline of Hawaii momentarily to make its appearance. First- rate chronometers, accurate sights, and nice cal- culations, enable us to judge very closely of the time of making land : and the sailing master having said, at 12 o'clock, that we should see the island between 3 and 5, we were almost certain that such would be the fact.
Before the call from aloft was made, my eyes had been fixed for some minutes on what I be- lieved to be the summit of MOUNAKEA ; but I dared not assert it, lest I might be deceived : I was cor-
FIRST SIGHT OF HAWAII. 55
rect, however, though a thick haze prevented any more distinct sight of it. The south-east point, in the neighbourhood of Kearakomo, was the only part clearly in view before dark, and that at a distance of forty or fifty miles.
Captain Finch did not fully determine, until a short time since, whether he would run on directly to Maui to-night, or lie-to and send a boat into Byron's Bay in the morning. Much to my satis- faction, and indeed principally on my account, he has made up his mind to look in upon Hido : and thus to give me the interview of an hour with those of our missionary friends who may be at that station, and, at the same time, an opportunity of learning the general news of the nations, before proceeding to Oahu.
Our voyage from the Society Islands has seemed long and most tedious to me, notwithstanding its having, in reality, been short. A near approach to this group has necessarily given rise to many feel- ings and associations, both of joy and of pain; and, for the last few days, especially during and since the calm to which we were subjected, I have been as restless and feverish in mind, as a child on the point of realizing some long-promised and eagerly anticipated delight ; and have been inca- pable of confining my attention for an hour to any one subject. Such utter uncertainty hangs over the scenes immediately before me, that I find myself harassed by an exciting and painful im- patience, when I ought to be under the exercise only of emotions of gratitude and joy for the
56 FIRST SIGHT OF HAWAII.
kind protection of God, in permitting me to reach this " desired haven" in health and safety.
As you, my dear H , will readily believe, I
was on deck this morning- by day-break, in antici- pation of a sunrise view of the land and mountains, as splendid and impressive as that with which we were favoured, when under similar circumstances, on board the Thames in 1823. But I was disap- pointed : instead of the rich and mellow tints of a fine morning1 in the tropics, I found a beclouded sky with occasional strong puffs of wind and dashes of rain, while an impenetrable curtain of mist entirely cut off a sight of the land. By 7 o'clock, however, the rain had ceased — the clouds began to gather round the mountains, and the mist over the lowlands, retreating before the sun, left the wide districts of Puna and Hido, with their exten- sive forests and gradually ascending open grounds, in all their rich verdure and freshness, in full view. We were then directly off Kapoho, the east point of the island — twenty-five or thirty miles south of Byron's Bay — and within twelve or fifteen miles of the shore.
For the last two hours, we have been running along the coast, which momentarily increases in richness. I am happy that the ship's company thus have an opportunity of seeing this section of the country, so widely different from every thing on the leeward sides. Hawaii is, without hesita- tation, pronounced by them the finest and most important island we have yet seen, and evidently rich in its capacities for improvement.
LAND IN A SMALL BOAT. 57
We are now so near the entrance of the bay that orders are given for two boats to be in readi- ness for lowering — one to carry me to the mission- house,, and the other to enable the sailing-master to take a view of the harbour, that we may have it in our power to speak from observation of its ad- vantages and disadvantages. I must, therefore, drop my pen — only to resume it, I trust, with good news from " afar country"
LETTER XLIV.
VISIT ON SHORE, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SCENERY.
Reception by Mr. Goodrich. — Garden at the Mission-house. — Greetings of the islanders. — Entrance to the bay and surrounding scenery.
Mission- House at Byron's Bay, October 3, 1829.
You will be as much surprised, dear H , at
the place of my present date, as I am at the op- portunity I enjoy of making it. When I wrote yesterday morning, I little thought of spending the night under this roof: but such I am most happy and thankful to say is the fact.
At 11 o'clock I left the ship, in the captain's gig, accompanied by Lieutenant Dornin, and Mid- shipmen Huntt and Wurts : Lieutenant Lardner, the Master, and Midshipman Maury, going in the third cutter. A tremendous swell was setting D 3
58 RECEPTION BY MR. GOODRICH.
towards the land, and it was almost as much as one's life was worth, to attempt getting into the boats, as they rose and fell, apparently ten or twelve feet, with every returning billow. We got off safely however, and as the sea did not break, did very well, with the exception of the long pull to the bottom of the bay. The ship was farther off the land than we thought — not less than eight or nine miles, and it was half-past 12 o'clock before we got into the harbour.
An immense thatched building, beautifully finish- ed, on the western side of the bay, near the river of Wairuku, I rightly judged to be the chapel ; and we steered for it, knowing that the mission- house would be found near. While still a con- siderable distance from the beach, I recognized Mr. Goodrich among a crowd of natives, beckon- ing us to the best spot for landing. Shortly after- wards, our boat touched the Hawaiian shore. A thousand varied thoughts and emotions rushed upon my mind and heart, and I was incapable of lifting up my head, lest I should betray what might be interpreted into a weakness by my com- panions, till I found myself in the strong grasp of a missionary friend and brother. Our meeting was the more impressive and affecting to Mr. Goodrich, from its being entirely unexpected. He had had no further intimation of my proposed visit, than that of having heard of my appointment in the naval service, and of the possibility of my visiting the islands at some future period.
After introducing my fellow- officers, a few
GARDEN AT THE MISSION HOUSE. 59
minutes walk inland brought us to the mission- house, where I was happy to meet Mrs. Goodrich and two little daughters, in good health. Mr. Goodrich is at present without an associate.
The captain had felt it necessary to limit our stay on shore to half an hour, and consequently all was hurry and excitement — a hundred things to learn, a hundred things to tell, and a hundred things to see. After ascertaining that all the mis- sionaries were well, every thing in a most pro- mising and prosperous state, and a great deal else of gratifying intelligence, we took a turn in the garden, where there is much to admire in the variety and luxuriance of the productions of this part of the islands.
The location of the mission ground is much more eligible and delightful than when you were here in 1825; commanding fine views of the har- bour, ocean, and surrounding shores, ornamented and shaded by clumps of the bread-fruit, and pos^- sessing a soil of almost unequalled richness. Every thing except the bread-fruit within the enclosure is the growth of little more than two years. Yet, besides fine hedges of a native tree very similar in appearance to the mountain ash, of the ti — dra- cosna — damask rose, and Cape gooseberry, there are many fine coffee plants, covered with berries of an uncommonly large size, exhibiting a vigour and rankness unequalled by any I saw at Rio de Janeiro ; a fine vineyard, with vines trained into arbours ; tamarind, fig, lime, lemon, orange, and mango trees, strawberries, &c. &c. In the shrub-
60 GREETINGS OF THE ISLANDERS,
bery I observed the pride of Barbadoes — cased- pinia coriaria — the seeds of which, I believe, I brought to the island, thriving finely, and by its rich blossoms of crimson and orange, imparting an air of gaiety to every thing near. The strawberry bed, too, is from seeds sent to me, and received after our return to America.
The news of my arrival spread rapidly among the people, and the house soon began to be thronged with these who had a recollection of me, but whom principally I had forgotten. Many of them shed tears as they embraced and kissed my hands, or sank at my feet, manifesting a degree of sensibility and affection — considering their slight personal knowledge of me — that was surprising, till informed of the happy fact, that a period of deep seriousness and religious feeling has long existed at this place, and that many of these are still under the influence of the lively affections of recent conversion : of a conversion not only from the follies and sins of a worldly life, but from the ignorance, superstition, and prejudices of heathenism, to the love and ser- vices of true piety.
There were those in the number, however, whom you and I not only know, but never can forget — particularly Bartimeus, our blind friend of Lahaina, and John Honorii. They both reside at this station, as assistants to Mr. Goodrich. Many and repeated kind inquiries from them and others were made concerning yourself and children : and (( aroha ino rakou" " great affection for them ," repeatedly burst from their lips.
ENTRANCE TO THE BAY. 61
Our limited half hour was gone before we seemed to have been fifteen minutes on shore : and we felt ourselves obliged even to decline the refreshments which Mrs. Goodrich had kindly prepared,, and to take a hasty leave. The hope, that by some means I might see them again before the Vincennes should bid a final adieu to the islands, prevented the feel- ing that I was bidding them farewell ; and I was therefore saved an unnecessary sorrow.
After a hard row of two hours, we gained the ship; and as soon as the boats were secured, stood away, as we thought, for Maui. But the wind had already become light and baffling ; a heavy swell and current were setting us within the points form- ing the bay, and our prospects of making much progress for the night were very uncertain : so much so, that after a moment's debate, to my surprise, but equally to my satisfaction, the captain deter- mined upon running into the harbour before the land breeze should come off; and by spreading a mountain of light sail, we were gently fanned in ; and by five o'clock were snugly at anchor abreast of the river and waterfall, and of course in the immediate vicinity of this place. Mr. Goodrich, perceiving our design, boarded us in his canoe, in time to point out the best anchorage for a vessel of our class.
As we entered the bay, the rays of the de- clining sun gleamed brightly over the wide extent of open champaign country, distinguishing this part of Hawaii from that of every other island in the Pacific I have yet visited — presenting its broad lawns and
62 ENTRANCE TO THE BAY
dark groves, in lights and shades of exquisite beauty, and in every variety of verdure, from that which seemed almost white to the deepest green.
From the lofty, but primitive looking chapel, as a centre, the humble dwelling of the fisherman and the farmer were seen widely scattered in every direction; some skirting the beach, as it swept round in the beautiful curvature forming the bottom of the bay; some hanging on the cliffs of the bolder shores ; some just peeping from the thick foliage of a grove more inland, or slightly screen- ed by the shade of a small clump or single tree ; and some, again, standing unsheltered and alone in the midst of a wide-spreading field. Such was the foreground; while behind, an extensive country, marked in two or three places by old, long extin- guished, and now verdant craters, rose gradually for miles, to the stately forests enriching the broad bases of Mounaroa and Mounakea, both in distinct view — the first appearing far in the south, above and beyond a line of green forests, in one long, regular, and distant arch of blue — the last, seem- ingly near, towering loftily against the western sky, in irregular and broken summits of gigantic mag- nitude. The admiration of all on board was greatly excited by the scene. I thought, myself, I had scarce ever gazed on one of simple nature more rich and lovely ; and we all rejoiced to be informed from the captain, that being now at anchor, the Vincennes would remain at least a week or ten days, before proceeding to the leeward.
I early took leave of the ship to spend the even-
AND SURROUNDING SCENERY. 63
ing and night on shore, and kept my friends from their rest long beyond their accustomed hour.
As is almost invariably the case in this district,, heavy showers of rain fell during the latter part of the night and morning, and every thing without be- came so perfectly drenched, that I wras kept within doors till a late hour. I felt no disposition, how- ever, to complain of the cause, for the pattering of the rain on the thatch of the roof and sides of the house proved a lullaby so soothing, as to make my repose of the kind, that
" delights Above the luxury of common sleep."
LETTER XLV.
A WORSHIPPING ASSEMBLY AT*HIDO,
Scene on the Sabbath morning1. — Aspect of the congrega- tion.— Evidences of the power of the gospel. — Interest- ing case of attention in an elderly female.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 4th, 1829.
THE scenes of the sabbath have been such, dear H — , that a review of them, in my own mind, will not be an abuse of sacred time, nor will their perusal give rise to thoughts and affections unsuit- ed to a day of God.
At an early hour of the morning, even before we had taken our breakfasts on board ship, a single islander here or there, or a group of three
64 SCENE ON THE
or four, wrapped in their large mantles of various hues, might be seeii winding their way among the groves fringing the bay on the east, or descending from the hills and ravine on the north, towards the chapel ; and by degrees their numbers increased, till, in a short time, every path along the beach and over the uplands presented an almost uninter- rupted procession, of both sexes and of every age, all pressing to the house of God. So few canoes wrere round the ship yesterday, and the landing- place had been so little thronged, as our boats passed to and fro, that one might have thought the district but thinly inhabited; but now, such multitudes were seen gathering from various di- rections, that the exclamation, " What crowds of people ! what crowds of people /" was heard from the quarter-deck to the forecastle.
Even to myself, it was a sight of surprise: sur- prise, not at the magnitude of the population, but that the object for which they were evidently as- sembling, should bring together so great a multi- tude. And as my thoughts re-echoed the words, " what crowds of people!" remembrances and affections of deep power came over me ; and the silent musings of my heart were " what a change ! what a happy change !" When at this very place, only four years ago, the known wishes and example of chiefs of high authority, the daily persuasion of teachers, added to motives of curiosity and novelty, could scarce induce a hundred of the inhabitants to give an irregular, careless, and impatient attend- ance on the services of the sanctury. But now.
SABBATH MORNING. 65
" Like mountain torrents pouring to the main, From every glen a living stream came forth — From every hill in crowds they hastened down To worship Him, who deigns in humblest fane, On wildest shore, to meet the upright in heart."
The scene, as looked on from our ship, in the stillness of a brightly beaming" sabbath morning-, was well calculated with its associations to prepare the mind for strong impressions on a nearer view, when the conclusion of our own public worship should allow us to go on shore. Mr. Goodrich had apprized us, that he had found it expedient to hold the services of the sabbath, usually attended at all the other stations at nine o'clock in the morning and at four in the afternoon, both in the fore-part of the day, that all might have the benefit of two sermons, and still reach their abodes before nightfall. For,
" Numbers dwelt remote,
And first must traverse many a weary mile, To reach the altar of the God they love."
And it was arranged, that, on this occasion, the second service should be postponed till the offi- cers should be at liberty to leave the ship. It was near twelve o'clock when we went on shore ; the captain and first-lieutenant, the purser, surgeon, several of the midshipmen, and myself. Though the services had commenced when we landed, large numbers were seen circling the doors without, but as we afterwards found, only from the impracti- cability of obtaining places within. The house is an immense structure, capable of containing many thousands, every part of which was filled, except
66 ASPECT OF THE
a small area in front of the pulpit, where seats were reserved for us, and to which we made our way, in slow and tedious procession, from the dif- ficulty of finding a spot to place even our footsteps without treading* on limbs of the people, seated on their feet, as closely, almost, as they could be stowed.
As we entered, Mr. Goodrich paused in his ser- mon till we should be seated. I ascended the pulpit beside him, from which I had a full view of the congregation. The suspense of attention in the people was only momentary, notwithstanding the entire novelty to them of the laced coats, cocked hats, and other appendages of naval uniform. I can scarce describe the emotions experienced, in glancing an eye over the immense number seated so thickly on the matted floor as to seem literally one mass of heads, covering an area of more than nine thousand square feet. The sight was most striking, and soon became, not only to myself, but to some of my fellow- officers, deeply affect- ing.
I have gazed on many worshipping assemblies, and of every variety of character, from those formed of the high and the princely — with a splendour and pageantry of train befitting the magnificence of the cathedrals in which they bowed — to the humblest " two or three" who ever came together at a place " where prayer is wont to be made." I have listened with delighted attention to some of the highest eloquence the pulpits of America and England of the present day can boast, and have
CONGREGATION. 67
watched with sympathetic excitement the effect produced by it, till all who heard were wrapt into an enthusiasm of high-toned feeling, at the subli- mity of the theme presented. I have seen tears of conviction and of penitence flow freely even to the seeming breaking of the heart, under the sterner truths of the word of God : and not unfrequently, too, have witnessed, as the annunciation of e ' Peace — be of good cheer, thy sins are forgiven thee," has fallen on the soul, smiles of hope and joy, such as would adoni an angel's brow, rapidly take their place. Bat it was left for a worshipping assembly at Hido, the most obscure corner of these distant islands, to excite the liveliest emotions ever ex- perienced, and leave the deepest impressions of the extent and unsearchable riches of the Gospel which I have ever known — emotions and impressions derived simply from an ocular demonstration of the power of the word of God on untutored man, which is without a parallel in existing events, if not in the records of history.
It seemed, even while I gazed, that the majesty of that power might be seen rising and erecting to itself a throne, permanent as glorious, in the hearts of these but late utterly benighted and deeply polluted people. And when I compared them, as they had once been known to me, and as they now appeared, the change seemed the effect of a mandate scarce less mighty in its power, or speedy in its result, than that exhibited when it was said " Let there be light T — " and there was light!"
The depth of the impression arose from the irre-
68 EVIDENCES OF THE
sistible conviction that the SPIRIT OF GOD was there : it could have been nothing else. With the exception of the inferior chiefs having- charge of the district, and their dependants, of two or three native members of the church and of the mission family, scarce one of the whole multitude was in • other than the native dress — the maro and the kihei — the simple garments of their primitive state. In this respect, and in the attitude of sitting, the as- sembly was purely pagan, totally unlike those of the Society Islands already described — as unlike as to one at home. But the breathless silence, the eager attention, the half-suppressed sigh, the tear, the various feeling, sad, peaceful, joyous — dis- coverable in the faces of many — all spoke the pre- sence of an invisible but omnipotent power, the power that can alone melt and renew the heart of man, even as it alone first brought it into exis- tence.
It was, in a word, a heathen congregation laying hold on the hopes of eternity — a heathen congre- gation, fully sensible of the darkness and despair of their original state, exulting in the first beams of truth, and in the no uncertain dawning of the Sun of Righteousness : thirsting after knowledge, even while they sweetly drank of the waters of life ; and under the reviving and inspiring influence, by every look, expressing the heartfelt truth— " Beautiful on the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings; that bringeth good tidings of good, that publisheth SALVATION ! "
From the thousands present, I might select
POWER OF THE GOSPEL. 69
many individuals whose appearance was such as to stamp these impressions indelibly on my heart. The aspect of one, at least, I can never forget : and will attempt to describe. It was a diminutive old woman, shrivelled by age till little more of her figure, with an appearance of health, was left, than skin and bone ; the style of her features, however, was of the regular and more pleasing character found among the islanders, with an amiable and benignant expression, which, in connexion with an entirely whitened head, exacted from the observer a look of kindness in return. Folded in a larg-e
O
mantle of black tapa, she was leaning, when my eyes first fell upon her, against a pillar near the pulpit, beside which she was sitting, with her head inclined upwards, and her eyes fixed upon the preacher. There was not only a seriousness, but a deep pensiveness in her whole aspect, that rivetted my attention : and as Mr. Goodrich proceeded in his discourse, a tear was seen occasionally to start in her eye, and more than one made their way down her deeply wrinkled cheeks upon her mantle.
I had not, in my long absence, so entirely for- gotten the native language, as not to understand much that was said. After some time, this sen- tence was uttered : " We are all sinners — but \\e have a God and Saviour, who will forgive us our sins, if we ask it of him. It is our duty to pray for this to God — and he hears the prayers of all who approach him in sincerity." I happened, at the moment, to look again upon this object — her attitude and aspect were the same, except that
70 INTERESTING CASE OF ATTENTION
her lips moved in the evident and almost audible repetition of the sentence. She again repeated it, as if to be certain that she heard and understood it correctly ; and, as she did so, a bright and peaceful smile spread over every feature — tears gushed rapidly from her eyes, and she hid her face in the folds of her garment. Could I be de- ceived in the interpretation of this case ? C ould I be mistaken in the causes and the nature of those varied emotions, under the circumstances in which they were beheld — and in one of whom I had never heard, and whom I had never before seen ? No, I could not : and if so — what is the language they speak ? They plainly say that this poor woman, grown gray in the ignorance and varied degradation of heathenism, by " the lamp let down from heaven" sees herself to be a sinner, and is oppressed to sadness and to sighing under a sense of her guilt. But she hears of pardon and salvation, freely given to all who will freely re- ceive— hears of the glorious liberty of the Gospel, and of all the rich privileges it confers, even to nigh access and intimate communion with the Father of spirits — hears and believes, and sinks before her God, in tears of gratitude and of joy !
The simple appearance and every deportment of that obscure congregation, whom I had once known, and at no remote period, only as a set of rude^ licentious, and wild pagans, did more to rivet the conviction of the divine origin of the Bible, and of the holy influences by which it is accompanied to the hearts of men, than all the arguments, and apologies, and defences of Christianity I ever read.
IN AN ELDERLY FEMALE. 71
Towards evening, Mr. Stribling and myself went again on shore, and remained till late, learn- ing from our missionary friends the most gratifying intelligence, in corroboration of the opinion formed, in the morning, of the state of the people. An entire moral reformation has taken place in the vicinity of this station. Though latest established, and long far behind others in success and interest, it bids fair, now, to be not a whit behind the very chiefest in its moral and religious achievements. Instruction of every kind is eagerly and universally sought; and only last week, not less than ten thousand people were assembled at an examina- tion of schools. The mission-house is daily crowded with earnest inquiries in every right way ; evil customs and atrocious vices are abandoned ; a strict outward conformity to good morals ob- served ; and numbers, it is hoped and confidently believed, have yielded and are yielding themselves to all the sweet charities and pure affections of o-enuine piety. From many an humble dwelling, now
" is daily heard
The voice of prayer and praise to Jacob's God ; And many a heart in secret heaves the sigh To Him who hears well pleased the sigh contrite."
Even in the hut of the child murderer,
" The father, with his offspring dear, Now bends the knee to God, and humbly asks That he would bless them with a parent's love — With heavenly manna feed their hungry souls, And on their hearts, as Hermon's dew, descend."
72 PREPARATIONS FOR
LETTER XL VI.
JOURNEY TO THE VOLCANO OF KIRAUEA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF ITS PRESENT STATE.
Preparations for leaving the ship. — Residence of Kinai, head man of Ora. — Arrival at the Crater. — Evening scene and lodgings. — Crater at midnight. — Morning walk.— Singular provision of water — Descent of the first cliff. — Glen within the Crater.— Changes on the ledge. — Descent to the bottom. — Examination of two Cones. — Temerity and dangerous feat of an Islander. — Sublime night-scene. — Pedestrians in a storm.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 9, 1829.
THE planning of a trip to the volcano at the base of the mountain Mounaroa, thirty-five miles inland from this harbour, was a first subject of attention, after being safely moored on Friday. A party, of which you will not be surprised to hear that I made one, was immediately formed ; and Maaro, the head man of the district, engaged to furnish us with twenty stout men — of whom John Honorii was to be manager — to carry our provisions and luggage.
Accordingly, early on Monday morning, we were found in all the bustle of a hasty preparatio for the excursion • and, after a general overhaul- ing of wardrobes for old hats, old coats, and old clothes of every description, except old shoes, ex-
LEAVING THE SHIP. 73
hibited, on mustering' on the quarter-deck after breakfast, a party in costume as appropriate to a pedestrian journey at Hawaii, as at variance with the prescribed dress of the service, on board ship. Our number was composed of Lieutenants Dornin, Magruder, and Lardner, Purser Buchanan, the Surgeon, Midshipmen Bissell, Huntt, Melville, Wurts, and myself, with one or two servants to take charge of various good things, in chest and basket, and to keep under appetites occasionally disposed, even in ordinary circumstances, to be rebellious.
By nine o'clock we were all stowed in the first cutter, which was to take us to Maaro's house, at the fish-ponds, to meet the men hired of him; and shortly after, well pleased to be off, and full of high-toned spirits from the anticipated interest of our excursion, we waved farewell to those who re- luctantly stayed behind
" to walk the deck, " And guard the ship from foe or wreck."
We soon, however, met with a damper to our buoyancy, in a genuine Hido shower, which de- tained us a long time at Maaro's ; and, by filling everything- in our way with water, effectually ren- dered the precaution we had taken against the morn- ing wetness of the grass and bushes, in determin- ing not to start till after breakfast, of no avail. Before eleven o'clock, all again was brightness ; and, after seeing our various luggage distributed among the islanders, we set off. The whole route
to VOL. II. E
74 RESIDENCE OF KINAl,
is so minutely, and,, from second observation, I can confidently add, so correctly described, in the published account of our residence in this nation, that, in place of repetition, with the privilege of an author, I will say, see ' ' Stewart, on the Sandwich Islands"
We accomplished fourteen miles just after four o'clock; and finding excellent accommodations for the night at that distance, determined to sleep before proceeding farther. The establishment, consisting of three houses, situated a short distance from the road, on the borders of a fine tract of land, having very much the appearance of a large plantation of intermingled arable and meadow grounds at home, and just at the edge of a fine forest running from the sea to the interior — belongs to Kinai, the head man of the thinly inhabited district of Ora. The master and his family were absent some thirty or forty miles, superintending the cutting of sandal- wood ; and a few domestics only were at home in charge of the houses. These, however, received us very kindly; and, at once, surrendered the principal habitation entirely to us — a kindness for which we were sufficiently fatigued to be truly thankful.
Here we were quickly made sensible that th( improvements and advancement of the people ai not limited to the seaports or to the coast. Th< house was divided into separate rooms by screei of native cloth and mats, furnishing distinct sleep- ing places for the inmates, besides one large am airy apartment, evidently kept as a better anc
HEAD MAN OF QUA. 75
principal room. Into this last we were shewn ; and a fine saloon at an American hotel, had we been travelling where we could have commanded
O
it, would not have been so great a luxury to us, as the neatness and evident comfort of this, under the circumstances in which we were.
The finer mats for the floor were economically rolled up against one side of the house, to save them from injury in the absence of the chief ; and other derangement of the ordinary articles of use was observable from the same cause — so that we did not see the establishment in its best state. Still, everything testified, in my eyes, to a vast improve- ment in the style of living, even among the inferior chiefs. Among other evidences of advancement were the few books yet printed in the native tongue, well bound and wrapped in covers of na- tive cloth ; and a large slate suspended against one of the partitions.
But that which our party, in general, hailed with most pleasure, was a fine lounge or divan, eight or ten feet in width, extending the whole length of the apartment. It was composed of a great number of thicknesses of mats, on a platform of wood, ele- vated about two feet from the floor, and sur- rounded by curtains of neat furniture chintz, af- forded a couch for the whole of our number, which we might have coveted under circumstances of
55
much less fatigue.
Indeed the comfort of the accommodations — a refreshing cup of tea and a substantial supper — the novelty of every thing around — freedom from the
E2
'b ARRIVAL AT
confinement of the vessel, and with it, from the tedium of the night watch, &c. &c., gave such a flow to the lively spirits of some of our younger companions, as to make it a late hour before wo were composed to quietude and to sleep.
Nothing of particular interest occurred the next day till we had arrived in the immediate vicinity of the volcano. The smoke ascending from it was discerned at a much greater distance — ten or twelve miles — than on my former visit ; and was so mas- sive in its columns, as to promise a high state of action. I regretted to ascertain, that the only hut now standing, in which we could find shelter, was at a different place from that which we had occu- pied in 1825; and that, in going to it, wre should approach the crater in a different and less striking manner. I was wishing to have all my first im- pressions and emotions renewed : and, in the dis- appointment, almost lost the wildness and beauty of the more gradual descent of the precipices, which we were making, by a path which branched off from the old one, just as we were coming upon them. The nearness of night, and a threatening of rain, however, left me no alternative — and I hastened on with my companions, to catch a first view, under whatever advantages the newr approach might offer.
Our arrival was more sudden than I had expected it to be. I had been looking for some more abrupt descent than any we had yet made, and was strain- ing my eyes into the vast body of thick and heated smoke — rising high to heaven and spreading widely
THE CRATER. 77
over the whole hemisphere to the south — for at least a glimpse of the tremendous gulf from whence it issued, when, scarce without warning, we found our- selves entering heavy currents of steam, rising ra- pidly from crevices and deep fissures about our path, and extending, at intervals, on one side, to the smoke from the crater, and on the other, to a low precipice flanking our right. This, on turning to- wards it, was seen itself, in many places, even to its very top, to smoke like a coal-kiln. The whole sur- face of the level on which we were — a plain a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, enclosed on the edge of the crater by a sweep of the precipice — ex- hibited, in a greater or less degree, the same evi- dences of wide-spread subterranean burnings.
The trade- wind blew freshly, and swept the dense steam and highly heated air, bursting from the ground, in strong currents and whirling eddies across our path ; and, at the same time, bore before it above, a thick and gloomy scud from the sea, flying so low as to brush swiftly through the trees on the top of the precipice, and at times to be scarce above our heads. Everything wore a foreboding and sad- dening aspect ; and, whatever I felt I had lost in a clear and distant view — like that enjoyed when with Lord Byron — the sight of the hut, which was to be our sleeping place, still far ahead, and, seemingly, in the midst of these admonitory signs of a dan- gerous substratum, gave rise to a sense of exposure, and to apprehensions not experienced on the for- mer occasion.
The rude lodge we were to occupy, open in front,
78 EVENING SCENE,
and only slightly thatched on the side next the wind, stands two or three hundred yards from the edge of the crater on the north end,, but does not command a view below ; we, therefore, scarce stopped at it, but with impatient eagerness hurried to the brink. It was, however, only to meet with disappointment: the smoke in the whole chasm was so dense as to be utterly impenetrable — a flickering flame, here and there, was only occasionally to be seen through its thickness ; and, now and then, a sudden flash, sending an illuminated column high towards the summit. Still the sight was deeply impressive. It \vas evident that the perpendicular depth, from our very footsteps down, was tremendous, and seeming- ly unfathomable ; and the obscure outline of the upper edges, sweeping off on either hand till lost to the eye in the smoke, gave an impression of awful immensity, disposing one to shrink back from the proximity already adventured.
Another cause of disappointment was the ab- sence of those terrific noises, which on my first visit were constantly bursting upon the ear : now scarce a sound was to be heard, except the rushing of the wind, as it swept over the edges of the cliffs, to the more rarified atmosphere within — unless it were an occasional indistinct sigh — a half smothered murmur or wheeze — and now and then, as a lull or eddy o the wind rendered the hearing1 from that directio
*5
more distinct, the hiss of escaping steam, and some thing like the simmer and the bubbling of a mighty cauldron, mingled with the distant sound of a surf rolling on a pebbly beach.
I
!-
AND LODGINGS. 79
There was in this assemblage of images — in the lowery sky and driving wind — in the riven and steaming ground — in the heavy masses of smoke rising from the hideous chasm beneath, as if from a bottomless pit — and in the oppressive and sadden- ing sounds occasionally coming to the ear — that, which was well suited to the recollection of years gone by, and of friends afar, who had once shared with me in the enthusiasm of high-wrought admi- ration, excited by the same object. And, in the indulgence of
— " a mood of mind we all have known,"
thus induced by circumstances and by scene, I lin- gered on the brink till completely chilled by the increasing freshness and dampness of the breeze.
The rude hut, or rather screen against the wind — consisting of poles propt in a slanting position, and covered on one side only with a few leaves of the sugar-cane, and bushes slightly placed upon them, we thought for a time very comfortable, and wisely located as to temperature; being on a spot of ground of such grateful heat, compared with the rawness of the mountain air, as to lead us to con- gratulate ourselves in the advantage it afforded, as we sat on our various packages in front, and par- took of our evening repast, within a foot of a cre- vice, from which steam issued of such power as to cook our potatoes in a short time, without the aid of fire. But when we came to take possession of the mats strewn inside of it for beds, we found our- selves in quarters considerably hotter than those in which Coleman the poet puts his lodger ove*
80 CRATER AT MIDNIGHT.
the bake-shop. You will scarce believe, that we all slept on a temperature of 120° Farenheit — but such is the fact : and it was well the air above was as low as 56° or 60°, so that by frequent turnings., we could let one side cool while the other was cook- ing, or we should have been well-nigh parboiled by morning. There was no alternative, however — it was the only shelter — and as there were dashes of rain through the night, it would have been almost death to have slept in the open air, on any cooler bed. We, therefore, made the best of the necessity; and after many a twist and toss of restlessness, an occasional groan of impatience, and not a few fore- bodings, from one part of our bower or another, that we should be steamed to skeletons before morn- ing, we made out a tolerable night's rest; and were quite in good-humour with our dormitory, to find, on rising, that the continued vapour bath had dissi- pated, almost entirely, the stiffness of limb which most of us had suffered from the length and rapi- dity of our walk.
I rose at midnight, and went to the crater. The steam from above was still driving in thick volumes over the cliffs ; and with the smoke from below, ren- dered every thing obscure: but various seats of fire, in tremendous action, sent up flashes of light through the dimness, to the highest clouds, and at times converted the w7hole body of smoke into one lurid mass. Some of the spots apparently most liquid and most agitated, were immediately below the place where I stood ; and, now and then, fiery streams in them, circling widely and swiftly in dif-
MORNING WALK. 81
ferent directions, glared on the eye, in all the regu- larity and brilliancy of the lamps of an orchestra. But as these exhibitions were but fitful and obscure, compared with what I had on a former occasion beheld, and the wind bleak and piercing, I was glad to make a hasty and shivering return to the warmth of my couch.
The morning was bright and beautiful, affording us, with a sky as purely blue as any ever looked on, splendid views in purple of Mounaroa, seem- ingly close at hand, and of Mounakea far behind us in the distance. I was at the crater again before sunrise, and followed its brink a half mile and more westward, with an opportunity of distinguishing for the first time its characteristic features. But the light of the day had extinguished the fires where, in the night, the principal action had been; nothing could now be discerned but smoking lakes, or black cones, tipped with pale, sulphureous flames.
Having reached the spot where the low precipice enclosing the level on which the hut stands termi- nates at the crater, I took a path crossing it towards the forests lying between the volcano and Mou- naroa. Mr. Magruder and Mr. Lardner had gone in the same direction with their fowling-pieces in search of wild ducks, for a more sumptuous dinner than we could otherwise command. I joined them, and on the way we fed luxurio usly on the whortle- berries of Pele, which covered the whole surface of the ground, in rich clusters of the finest size, dripping with the rain of the night, not knowing E3
82 SINGULAR PROVISION OF WATER.
how much more delicate a repast there was in re- serve for us, beyond the rising ground over which we were walking, in an abundance of delightful strawberries. These are found principally in an open meadow-like place, skirting a wood of noble trees of the eugenia and acacia,
In returning, we passed by the pools furnishing visitors with the only water in the vicinity. Its pre- paration is a kind provision, not only for the weary traveller, as he occasionally crosses the island at this wonderful place, but for the fowls of the air, who, at most times, find security in the regions around — I say preparation, for the provision, though natural, is strictly such, and one of the most singular in the world — it is by the conden- sation of steam escaping from holes and crevices in the ground immediately to the windward of a bed of earth and lava, so hard and compact, as to be impervious to water, and into excavations and natural basins, of which the drops, formed by the effect of the cold wind upon the vapour, fall, and furnish a constant supply of the purest water. I looked with admiration on the simple process ever taking place, and thought with wonder and grati- tude of the wisdom and goodness of the Almighty, often displayed in the economy of nature, in which circumstances seemingly small and unimportant, are not only highly condusive to the comfort, but vitally essential to the well-being of his creatures. Well indeed may it be said, that ' ' His WORKS DO PRAISE HIM."
Soon after breakfast we began to prepare for a
DESCENT OF THE FIRST CLIFF. 83
descent below ; and, before long, were all mar- shalled and equipped with long canes, water flasks, &c. for the undertaking1. Directly in front of our sleeping place, and entirely round the western side, the descent to the ledge, or offset, is a per- pendicular wall of nine hundred feet; we there- fore went some quarter or half mile to the east, by the direction of our attendants, many of whom had, within the last two or three years, been here with several successive parties. On coming to the path leading down, I was quite surprised to find the commencement of it so different from that of my former descent. Indeed, I did not know till then that any part within the upper circumference presented such an aspect at a single view, afford- ing the most conclusive proof ^f the kind of pro- cess going on in the undermining of the surround- ing mountain ; and of the manner in which the enormous fires beneath are fed, when old masses of matter upon which they have been acting, be- come utterly reduced to scoria and ashes.
After an almost perpendicular descent of eighty or a hundred feet, in accomplishing which we at times hung from rock to rock, the path came upon an extent of ground, half a mile in length and a quarter broad, broken into abrupt hills and deep glens, and covered with grass, shrubbery, and small trees. The whole declines gradually several hundred feet towards the crater, and con= stitutes a little valley, separated from it by a suc- cession of barren hills, of volcanic rock and sand. It had evidently been shattered into its present
84 GLEN WITHIN THE CRATER.
forms, and sunk from the level above, at no very remote period, in some convulsion, after its foun- dations had been sapped by the element still raging beneath; and it is not improbable that, even now, the whole is suspended on some compara- tively slender base, till another throe shall open for it a descent into a fiery abyss, to be converted in its turn into a mass of liquid fire.
The scenery here was strikingly unique and ro- mantic, consisting, above and behind us, of the bare and perpendicular face of rocks, from which this section had been rent as it came down, and of a succession of miniature mountains and ravines, thrown into every wild form, and still beautifully verdant with various growth. The path winding over and through these, though plain and seem- ingly safe, is in truth the most dangerous that I have met in the whole region. In many places the bushes and grass skirting it, either partially or entirely conceal the most horrible pits and fissures, into which, almost without knowing it, a single false step, or a slip, might plunge one, to be heard of no more. In several instances, when least dreaming of danger, I have come upon some of these, with a suddenness and want of caution that have made my blood curdle, as I ventured a gaze into their yawning and unfathomable mouths. Once, in particular, the first intimation I had of being near any thing of the kind, was the heat against my face of the steam issuing from it, my feet being already on the very brink ; it was suffi- ciently large to admit the stoutest man entire ; of
CHANGES ON THE LEDGE. 85
a depth to which the eye could not reach, and filled with vapour scalding hot ! To have fallen into it must have been instant and irrecoverable destruction. In another place the path led over a crack, to all appearance without bottom, several feet in width, and extending on either hand, as far as we could distinguish, by a single narrow arch of a foot's breadth only, in the manner of a natural bridge, from which to have stepped would have been for eternity !
After traversing this singularly located glen, we found ourselves still four or five hundred feet above the ledge, within the crater, and the descent to it very abrupt and difficult, from the hardness and smoothness of the lava of which chiefly it is con- stituted. In many places, large streams of no very ancient date — since they cooled and hardened in their running1 form — marked the sides of the cliff ;
& y
and by a principal one of these, resembling a cas- cade still pouring down the face of the hill, most of our party, in slow and necessarily cautious pro- gress, reached the offset, or natural gallery, run- ning round the chasm.
Here the changes that have taken place since 1825 first became striking The general features
O O
were much the same ; but almost every spot, when looked upon in detail, shows evidence of new and tremendous act on of fire, and of convulsion after convulsion, that must have shaken every thing far and wide. The greatest alteration, however, is that of which I had been apprised — the filling up of the whole surface below the ledge, at least two
86 DESCENT TO
hundred feet. The depth below this was estimated by Lord Byron's party at five hundred feet — at present it cannot,, on an average, be more than two hundred. Many of the highest of the cones have thus, been much reduced in their loftiness; and many have entirely disappeared. In all other re- spects, the general surface and aspect is the same, though there is much more fire in the north end than formerly ; and the very route we took in crossing the bottom at that time, is now a chain of liquid lakes from one side to the other.
My first walk on the ledge was westward — the same direction I went when with Lord Byron — but I had not proceeded half the length of the northern side, before the way was interrupted by a sulphur cone, which has risen on the ledge, and which was surrounded by such a suffocating vapour as to prevent passing. I therefore returned to my companions, who were busily employed in gather- ing curious specimens of a variety of kinds, till I should return to accompany them down the re- maining distance to the bottom.
By the rising of the lava, the difficulty of making the descent is, in a great degree, done away in those places where it was ever practicable ; and it occupied but a few moments to go down. The surface is more broken and distorted than ever, and presents a truly hideous mass of ruins. There being much more fire at the north end than in 1825, the currents of heated and gaseous air are more numerous, and more strongly impregnated ; and, consequently, an examination more hazardous.
THE BOTTOM. 87
Our number became divided into separate parties — one of which went far into the middle of the northern section, and believe themselves to have been at the very edge of the largest lake, seen in powerful action the night before. The specimens of sulphur collected from its border are of the finest and most beautiful kind, but so recently formed and so delicate as to be very difficult of preservation.
In the course of the two or three hours we were at the bottom, we visited four cones — all the centres of great activity in the fires. The first was almost encrusted with sulphur ; and could be approached only on the windward side, from the heat and suf- focating vapour in every other direction. This was only a few feet high ; and wre got near enough to touch the sides and top with our canes. Though smoke and steam were projecting from its top with great force and considerable noise, we perceived no flame or liquid lava ; but the roaring of mighty fires below were distinctly heard, and, at a nearness, that marked with temerity the adventure that brought us within the hearing of its undulating and deeply menacing sounds.
The eager curiosity, however, which rendered us in a degree insensible to the hazards of our situa- tion, was afterwards more completely gratified, in a visit to two others, much more lofty and unique, and altogether more imposing in their state and aspect. They were situated a mile farther south, along the eastern side ; and our attention was called to them by the loud hissing and laborious action of
88 EXAMINATION
steam,, and by the flames which, occasionally^ flashed from their summits. They were in the neighbourhood of each other, each about twenty feet in height, not more than sixty in circumference at the base, and tapering almost to a point at the top, being in fact two immense hollow columns, formed by successive slight overflowings of lava, cooling as it rolled down into irregular flirtings, ornamented with rude drops and pendants, and long tapering stalactites.
The nearness of our approach, and the examina- tion of these were greatly exciting. Though the ragings beneath must have been intense — from the tremendous roar within, the irresistible force and deafening hiss with w^hich the steam rushed from every opening, and from the flames which flashed up, followed by lava white with an intensity of heat — still the incrustation of scoria immediately around seemed firm, and was less hot than in many other places: admitting, not only of our coming close to the sides of the cone, but also of clamber- ing some feet up them, till we could run our canes into the orifices at the top, and withdraw, with their burning ends, red hot lava, on which we readily made impressions with pencil-cases and naval buttons.
Pele did not seem well pleased with this fami- liarity, however — even the slightest touch with our sticks against the molten lava produced an in- creased rush and roar from below, with an angry spitting of the fiery matter high in the air around us ; and more than once, we retreated hastily to
OF TWO CONES. 89
a more respectful distance, anticipating- from the ill-natured mutterings and menacing struggles of her ladyship,, to see a burning stream roll forth to put an effectual barrier to such close inspec- tion.
So much of novelty, so much of fearful sub- limity,, attracts the attention and calls for admira- tion, on every side, that day after day, in place of a single morning, would be insufficient to ex- haust the points of interest in this grand object : and we regretted the necessity, that hunger, thirst, and fatigue imposed upon us, of taking leave of the depths to which we had descended.
The ascent to our cabin, by the same path we came, was toilsome in the extreme ; and but for the refreshment derived from the whortle-berries — after having surmounted the first cliffs — we should have been almost entirely overcome.
The first evening of our arrival from the bay, while standing on the edge of the crater, a sudden blast of wind brushed from my head a Leghorn hat, which I had worn to shield my face, by its broad rim, from the sun ; and in an instant swept it out of sight over the precipice, as was then sup- posed, beyond all recovery. But, while at dinner, after having reached the hut, we were alarmed by the running of one of the natives from the crater, calling, in great agitation, for a rope, which had been used in lashing our provision chest ; and on hastily demanding what was the matter, learned that an islander, when below in the morning, had caught a glimpse of it, lodged on the face of the
90 TEMERITY AND DANGEROUS
precipice over which it had been blown, some dred or more feet below the summit ; and that, coming- up, he had gone over the brink, and by most frightful effort, had succeeded in gaining possession of it. After making his way back, how- ever, till within some twenty or thirty feet of the top, he found it impossible to get farther, and was then standing on a single projecting stone, in danger every moment of losing his hold, and of being precipitated to instant destruction, down a wall-faced cliff of at least nine hundred feet !
We shuddered at the bare thought of what the catastrophe might be — but seeing a sufficient num- ber of the natives collected to render any assist- ance practicable, we waited the event in silent agitation ; not wishing to be exposed to the pos- sibility of witnessing with our eyes, what might be too horrid to relate. In a few moments we had the happiness to perceive, from the general move- ment and appearance of his companions, that the attempt at rescue had been successful ; and, shortly after, pale as death — trembling like an aspen leaf, and covered with a cold sweat, he came and laid the old Leghorn at my feet !
The hat was not worth a moment of anxiety, much less the exposure undergone ; and, while I rewarded the intrepidity of the young man, I felt disposed to reprove the daring rashness that led to the exhibition of it. None but the kindest and most disinterested motives induced the attempt— a principal one, doubtless, being that of seeing me under the necessity of resorting to a turban of silk
FEAT OF AN ISLANDER. 91
handkerchiefs, to shield my head from a noonday sun — and though alarming- in its possible conse- quences, the motive merited commendation and grateful acknowledgment.
The remainder of the day was almost necessarily, from the exhaustion of the morning, given to loung- ing and repose. As the darkness of the night closed around us, however, we took a station in sight of the crater, and, wrapped in our cloaks, sat in the fresh wind on the precipice for an hour or more, catching occasionally, through the smoke, exhibitions of great beauty and sublimity. But there were none to prevent a feeling of disappoint- ed expectation, on my part, in comparison with the high gratification before derived from the same object ; and I returned to our lodge with my com- panions, thinking that I must remain indebted to my first visit, for the sublimest impressions ever made on my mind and feelings by a work of nature.
In this, however, I was mistaken. After some hours of sound sleep, I awoke • and perceiving the smoke and clouds over the volcano to be splen- didly illuminated, hastened with a glass to a point of observation. A very sensible change had taken place in the liveliness of the seats of fire — in the vividness of the flashings of light — and in the sharp- ness and force of the sounds from various parts. I had been seated about ten minutes, fixing the field of the telescope on one and another of the cones, and on the lakes and rivers of bright lava, with great delight, when a sudden hissing and mingling
92 SUBLIME MGHT SCENE.
of confused sounds,, accompanied by a brilliant glare of flames almost directly beneath me, attracted my attention, and led me to direct the glass to the spot. In doing this, I was presented with a spectacle which even imagination itself can scarce rival.
The power of the glass was such as to bring the scene, seemingly, within touching distance, and to make me involuntarily recoil, from the apparent proximity to which I was brought by it. A lake, a half mile or more in circumference — and pro- bably but just unclosed — was raging in all the tumult of a tempest at sea. At first, the agitation was perpendicular — precisely that of a boiling cauldron — tossing up masses of the red-hot mat- ter, in a bubbling action, fifteen and twenty feet, with a rapidity of motion equal to that of the most heated boiler. Then came a long regular motion from the south, heaving before it a fiery surf, whose billows rose, and crested, and broke, in sheets and spray of fire, like heavy billows sweeping over a reef to the shore ! The effect was almost too fearful to be gazed on ; and, for a mo- ment— in forgetfulness of the distance and safety of my location — as billow after billow rose higher and higher and seemed ready to dash over me, with an exclamation of horror, I dropped the glass and closed my eyes upon the sight.
I would have run for my fellow-travellers, but feared, that before they could be roused and would reach the spot, the aspect of the scene might be entirely altered. This indeed would have been
PEDESTRIANS IN A STORM. 93
the case ; for,, in less than fifteen minutes, the agi- tation had entirely ceased, and the surface soon became less bright and fiery than that of many other spots. I waited a long time, hoping to see it renewed, but in vain ; and then returned to my couch under an excitement of varied emotion, ad- miration, awe, and deep humility, before the ma- jesty and power of the Almighty in his works, never before experienced ; and repaid a hundred- fold, by the scene, for all the fatigue and exposure of the journey.
In the nearness and distinctness of the view, and in the clear perception of the form, character, and power of the action, it far surpassed any thing be- held on the nights I was there with Lord Byron — though the general exhibitions, at that period, were far more beautiful, and less obscured by smoke, than during this visit.
Early on Thursday morning, our encampment was in the bustle of preparation for a return to the bay : and breakfast was finished, and our long pro- cession formed, by half-past six o'clock. The weather did not promise much in our favour. The clouds were low and scudding — every thing wore rather a gloomy aspect — and we had scarce accomplished three miles before it began to rain ; and in a short time, we found ourselves in a per- fect storm. There was no alternative, however, but as rapid a march as possible. With stiffened and swollen limbs and feet, shoes very much the worse for service already performed, stores nearly expended, a driving rain in our faces, and a walk
94 PEDESTRIANS IN A STORM.
of twenty miles to accomplish before we coul reach a shelter, we did not feel much disposed be facetious ; and formed rather a silent and wo< begone procession, compared with the buoyant with which we had hurried over the same groui two days bef-jre.
Each one seemed to think, that the sooner he brought his own precious body under cover the better ; and we made short work, to the residence of Kinai, the petty chieftain cf Ora. We were there by 12 o'clock ; and found his establish- ment tenfold more welcome than before. All of us were drenched with rain, and in a state greatly to relish the luxury of a large fire and a change of clothes, wrhich our portmanteaus still fortunately afforded. We should have remained here all night had there been no rain, and therefore the storm, instead of being an annoyance, rather added to the cheerfulness of our spirits, when screened from its power.
We wTere off early again in the morning; and after a very fatiguing walk, from the wetness of the path, and the excessively bad state in which we found the road through the wood, reached Maaro's about noon. An express had been sent a-head, with information of our approach, and a request for a boat to be in waiting for us, so that we were safely on board the Vincennes in time for a dinner, for which we had long felt well-set appetites.
Thus, dear H , you have the outline of a
second excursion to the habitation of PELE.
ARRIVAL AT THE BAY.
LETTER XLVII.
CASCADE OF THE RAINBOW.
Ramble along the Wairuku. — Circumstances of a fatal casualty. — Description of the Cascade. — Adjoining- Scenery.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 10th, 1829.
WE were to have sailed for Oahu at 4 o'clock this morning- ; but before our anchors were up the land breeze died away, and it became necessary to drop them again. All hands were kept on board till after dinner, in the hope that we might still be able to get out of the harbour : but then, there being- little prospect of this for the day, Captain Finch allowed a party to go on shore, to be re- called in case of a change of wind, by the firing of a gun, and the hoisting of a flag at the foremast head.
I did not regret the detention. There is one object worthy of notice, in the vicinity of the bay, which I had not previously an opportunity of visit- ing1— a waterfall in the Wairuku, two or three miles above its mouth, called by the natives, " ke Wai Ami e nue" "the Cascade of the Rainbow " from the beautiful exhibition of that phenomenon on the spray created by it, whenever the sun is unshaded.
Mr. Goodrich had dined with us, and became
96 RAMBLE ALONG THE WAIRUKU.
;.
the guide to this spot of a party, consisting of Lieutenant Stribling, Midshipmen Irving, Smith, Rowan, Maury, Taylor, Anthony, and myself. We landed at the mouth of the Wairuku, on the wild rocks forming its precipitous banks. This place has been a favourite resort of our gentle men ; and the untiring feats of the islanders, throwing themselves from some of the highest of the adjoining cliffs — thirty, forty, and fifty feet — into the basins below, and in gliding down the falls above the watering-place, at the seeming hazard of being dashed to death, have daily afforded them great amusement.
' The path to the curiosity we intended visiting, led us along the top of the high banks and preci- pices edging the ravine, through which the Wairuku — by a gradually descending and winding course — rumbles and foams over its rocky bed, from the mountains fifteen or twenty miles inland to the bay. A bright and beautiful afternoon, after a clouded and dull morning, added to the unex- pected pleasure of another ramble over these ver- dant and truly charming shores, and the gratify- ing thought of leaving nothing of interest in the immediate neighbourhood unseen, imparted great vivacity to our company. I scarce know when I have more enjoyed the freshness of the land, the beauty of grass and flower, the twittering of the birds, and the babblings of the mountain stream, with varied other sources of delight both to the eye and to the ear, connected with the landscape around, than on this occasion.
A FATAL CASUALTY. 97
When a mile on our way, we heard the pouring of a waterfall ; and soon came in sight of one, ex- tending like a mill-dam,, in an unbroken ledge, across the stream. It is some sixteen or twenty feet in height, and very similar in its general cha- racter to one or two of the most admired sections of the range of cascades, forming the falls of the Canada creek, at Trenton in the state of New York.
In many places the bed of the river is deep— ap- parently unfathomable ; and at such parts espe- cially, the embankments are bold and abrupt — forty, sixty, and a hundred feet high — and gene- rally perpendicular. One of the loftiest and most precipitous, just below the cascade to which we were going, was regarded by us with particular interest as designating the scene of one of those tragic casualties, which, unhappily, have thrown a melancholy, though perhaps not unprofitable as- sociation, over two or three of the most celebrated resorts of a similar kind in our own country.
Not long since, a young female, with some of her companions, strolled up the banks of the river, to gather flowers for the wreaths worn as orna-
O
ments of the head and neck. On reaching this spot, a splendid cluster of the crimson blossoms of the ohia leihua — a species of eugenia — caught her eye, on the branch of a tree hanging over the pre- cipice. Poising herself against a limb which she thought secure, she stretched her hand after the flower ; when — in the act of seizing it — her sup- port suddenly gave way, and she was plunged to instant death, in the whirling eddies of the gulf
VOL. II. F
98 DESCRIPTION OF THE CASCADE.
below ! The young- tree, flourishing1 gaily in the splendour of its dark green foliage and rich blos- soms, still marks the fatal locality ; and, as long as it remains, will doubtless recall to the islanders the doom of the youthful victim of vanity.
The principal object of our ramble surpassed, in novelty and beauty, every anticipation. It is de- cidedly superior in the variety of its points of in- terest, to any other of the kind I have ever seen. It is also strikingly unique. The projection of water is one hundred and ten feet in height : and
O y
the offset causing it, in the view had of it from below, strictly a natural bridge, spanning the basin into which the water is poured, in one broad arch, resting on either side upon massive abutments of basaltic rock. The arch, however, instead of being open entirely through is the entrance of a deep recess or cavern, into the darkness and gloom of which the sight can scarce penetrate.
The basin beneath — a perfect circle of some hun- dred yards diameter — is as placid as a lake, ex- cept where the stream plunges into it from above, and completely walled in, save at a single narrow- outlet, by precipices of rock a hundred and fifty feet or more high, richly covered with moss, fern, and shrubbery. An insulated, pyramidal peak, at the base of which we stood, rises directly op- posite to the cascade ; its formation, like that of the arch, being almost precisely that of the Giant's Causeway, possessing the same distinctive cha- racteristics in form, and in regularity of arrange- ment.
ADJOINING SCENERY. 99
There was something- so secluded in the location, so wild in the outline, so rich and beautiful in the foliage and clothing- of the cliffs, and in the man- tling of their summits, so imposing in the rushing of the stream — as it poured itself in a silvered mass, directly, as it were, from the blue bosom of the sky, and then plung-ed, in equal splendour, into the depths below — that we were irresistibly charmed with the whole scene ; and greatly re- gretted that we should not have an opportunity of revisiting- it for a day, in addition to the single hour we could now remain.
There is another waterfall in the Wairuku, still farther inland, which, Mr. Goodrich thinks, can- not be less than three hundred feet in height.
o
Indeed, the numerous streams furrowing this sec- tion of Hawaii, from the mountains to the shore, are filled with them ; and the whole may appro • priately be styled " the region of cascades."
We returned to the bay by a different path from that by which we went up. It led us directly to a range of three old craters, in the rear of the mission-house, and half a mile from it. The highest and largest is that next the bay; and, when viewed from the water, partially conceals the others. Its truncated summit, a half mile in circumference, rises three or four hundred feet above the adjoining ground ; and is now, in every part, perfectly covered with turf. The sides of the rims next the sea, are in all of them the lowest ; and show plainly, that when in action, they disgorged themselves in that direction. Mr. F 2
100 THE LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.
Goodrich has encircled the largest with a broad, deep ditch ; and converted it into a pasturage for his cattle, and for the horses of some of the chiefs, which have been sent to Hido for keeping. The tops of the craters command fine views of the surrounding country ; especially of the bay, in its entire outline — from the blue and peaceful waters of which the Vincennes was now seen to rise, loftily and beautifully, with her long pennant and broad banner gleaming brightly in the setting sun.
LETTER XLVIII.
THE HEREDITARY AND LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.
Personal Appearance of the Priestess. — Instance of affected inspiration. — Conversion to Christianity— Former Sacri- fices to Pele. — Total Subversion of the Heathenism of the Country.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 12, 1829.
ON our return from the cascade of the Rainbow, Mr. Stribling and myself called at the mission- house, and were, unexpectedly, gratified by an interview with the hereditary and last PRIESTESS OF PELE.
In speaking of the volcano, Mr. Goodrich inci- dentally remarked, that this individual was now residing in the immediate neighbourhood • and, at our suggestion, sent, a messenger to invite her over. She almost immediately came, attended by her
PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE PRIKSTESS. 101
household, consisting of eight or ten individuals, male and female. I should judge her to be forty or forty-five years of age ; a tall, finely formed, majestic woman, wrapped in a large black mantle of native cloth, falling in thick folds like the Roman toga, from the bust to the ground. We were much impressed with her appearance as she entered at the head of her train, and, after re- ceiving our salutations, became seated on a mat in the centre of the apartment, in the attitude of a Turkish female on a divan. The style of her face is remarkably noble and commanding — indi- cative of strong traits of character — with a full piercing black eye, which I can readily imagine, might be fearfully intimidating to the superstitious, when flashing in the wildness of an imaginary in- spiration. There was not only a deep seriousness, but a decided cast of melancholy in her whole aspect, which reminded me, in connection with the strongly marked and superior contour of her features, of a fine print of the tragic muse, which I recollect to have seeu.
Perhaps the impression on my mind was deep- ened by the recollection of a rencontre, when a resident of Lahaina, with an inferior priestess of the same order, then still holding, or claiming the pre- rogatives of her class. I unexpectedly met her in an evening wralk, followed by a considerable com- pany ; some evidently under the influence of a su- perstitious feeling in reference to her; and others, as evidently disposed to deride her pretensions. She was dressed in a fantastic manner, with dis-
102 INSTANCE OF AFFECTED INSPIRATION.
bevelled hair — her eyes flashing in a half-frenzy, from the degree of excitement to which she had
o
wrought herself — and appeared altogether like a maniac : such as I supposed her in reality to be, till undeceived by the exclamations of the crowd, " it is a goddess — it is a goddess V
o o
As if to intimidate, she approached me with a fierce and daring look ; and waving before her a small flag of tapa, appended to a light staff, sup- ported the claim by the declaration, " I am a goddess, a goddess indeed ! — the palapala and the pule (letters and religion) are not good : they will destroy the people!" Until then, I was passing" without intending* to take further notice
of her ; but, understanding this — in view of the respective causes thus brought forward by her — as a kind of challenge, I stopped ; and deliberat- ing fora moment what course to pursue, fixed my eyes fully on hers, and charged her with false- hood and wickedness, in her attempts to deceive the people by proclaiming herself a goddess, while conscious that she was an impostor, and that her pretensions to inspiration were a " meet punipuniwale no" — <f a thing of falsehood only" I spoke in a serious and positive tone, and my words had the effect designed. She could not meet the fixedness of my gaze ; her eyes wavered and dropt; and becoming greatly embarrassed, she endeavoured to turn the whole into a laugh ; but I continued my reproof, till she hurried silently away, followed by the hootings and ridicule of the whole throng.
CONVERSION TO CHRISTIANITY. 103
This individual was of small figure, and not of striking face, except in the brilliancy and power of a fine eye ; yet, in the fit of enthusiasm in which she at first appeared, there was an expression so unnatural, as to be fearful, even to the mind supe- rior to superstitious emotions ; and which irresist- ably reminded me of what I have imagined the looks of a demoniac to have been, in the times when such possessions were, for wise purposes, permitted.
A lively recollection of the impressions of this incident, connected with the disadvantage in person and feature in the case, compared with the indivi- dual now present, enabled me easily to conceive how fully this chief priestess, from the strength of expression and action of which her face and figure are evidently capable — under the excitement of a supposed inspiration by the goddess whose altar she served, while her
" eye, in a fine frenzy rolling, Should glance from heaven to earth, from earth to heaven," —
might infuse, into a credulous votary, impressions and fears, that would readily be attributed to the power and agency of a supernatural being.
It. was by exhibitions of this kind, and the effect produced by them on the populace, that the priests and priestesses, especially those of Pele, or the goddess of volcanoes, continued their sway over the belief and superstitious feelings of the people.
The priestess is now a firm believer in Christi- anity, and is one of the most attentive pupils of the station, at which, entirely for the benefit of instruc-
104 FORMER SACRIFICES TO PELJE.
tion, she has become permanently established. Her convictions of the folly and wickedness of her former vocation is such, that she is reluctant to converse much upon it. Her father was the here- ditary kahu, or steward, as she was the priestess, of Pele. The duty of the kahu was to provide the materials for the general sacrifices — the food and raiment of the suppositions deity: to grow the taro, potatoes, and sugar-cane, and the cloth- plant, from which the garments for her were made ; to provide the hogs and fowls, &c., and to have all things in readiness for the offerings, at the appointed seasons.
Of the plantations sacred to this use, one was on the sea- shore, and another within the precincts of the crater — in the broken ground, described as that upon which we first came, in descending from our hut, on our late visit. The kapu and his family resided, part of the time, on the coast ; and part, in the neighbourhood of the crater.
At the time of sacrifice, the priestess herself descended into the depths of the volcano, and, approaching the place most accessible and most active with fire, cast upon it the gifts, with the ex- clamation, "Here, Pele, is food for you' — spe- cifying the article or articles — " and here is cloth,''' mentioning its name and varieties. In answer to the question, whether she was not afraid of the fire which she approached ? she said no, for she then believed that the goddess would defend her from harm — but that now, when she knew that there was no such being as Pele, she should be
OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. 105
afraid to go to places where she once did without apprehension, lest she might perish in her temerity.
Such, dear H , have been the rapid and
happy triumphs of Christianity, over the but lately deep-rooted heathenism of this country — and thus have the shades of superstition and error been dis- persed by the mild light of the gospel ! Even those who have grown old in the performance of the most favourite rites of idolatry, and who held unbounded influence and distinguished rank from their office, have discarded the whole system ; and, conscious of their ignorance and their guilt, are found meekly sitting at the feet of the High Priest of Salvation, to be instructed and redeemed by him!
The inhabitants of this section cf Hawaii, as I have before remarked, are among the most primi- tive and rude of the islanders ; still they are no longer a pagan population, but, from every obser- vation that our ship's company have been able to make, strictly and most conspicuously a Christian people. The description I have given of a sabbath here, will convey some idea of the manner in which that and other external observances of Christianity are regarded. To it I may add, what I then omitted, that not a canoe — unless it might have been some one or two bringing their proprie- tors to church — was seen upon the water, nor a single instance observed of labour or amusement. Forty of our crew had liberty on shore on the afternoon of that day ; and the report I overheard one and another of them giving to their fellows, F 3
106 HEATHENISM TOTALLY SUBVERTED.
was in itself sufficient to satisfy me of the utter change which had been accomplished in the whole character of the people. So punctilious were the inhabitants in their regard for the sabbath, that the seamen sought in vain to purchase anything whatever. Not even a water-melon or a banana could be obtained, except as a gift of hospitality. No rude crowd gathered round, as they sauntered from place to place. The men treated them with civility when they came to their houses ; but the women, universally, with such distance, by with- drawing from the places where they were, and by seeking security in the bosoms of their families, from any familiarity that might have been offered, that no one, so far as I can learn, has it in his power to report that he met with a single instance of licentiousness at Byron's Bay.
The force of this evidence of reformation will be best understood by those, who have known what the character of the intercourse of shipping with its inhabitants, as well as those of every other part of the Sandwich Islands, even within a few years, has been ; and, by such, it will be acknow- ledged as one, which the most sanguinfe believers in the success of the mission never expected to find, so early as the year 18*29.
Along the whole coast, no noisy drum of heathenish carousal, nor rude song of obscenity is now heard — but in their place, the hum of the crowded school, the voice of thanksgiving and prayer, and, not unfrequently, the chaunting of the morning and the evening hymn 1
DEPARTURE FROM BYRON'S BAY 107
LETTER XLIX.
FIRST INTERVIEW WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT OAHU.
Departure from Byron's Bay. — Aspect of Oahu. — Arrival and landing. — Improvements in Honolulu.— Meeting with the Missionaries.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Roads of Honolulu, October 13, 1829.
YESTERDAY morning, at four o'clock,, we weighed anchor in Byron's Bay, and, after being gently fanned from the harbour by a land-breeze, took the trade- wind, and with all sail set, bore away for Oahu, some two hundred miles distant.
We made the eastern end of Maui sometime before dark ; while the higher parts of Mounakea were still distinctly in sight, and — from their loftiness and the rich deep blue of their shades — seemingly still near. Most of our gentlemen have felt disposed to question the estimate that has generally been made, of the loftiness of this moun- tain ; but, as we left it yesterday, the more distant we became from it, the more evident it was to all, that, whether 18,000 feet or not above the level of the sea, it must be, and is, immensely high.
Just now we are favoured with a beautiful moon ; and the officer of the mid- watch informed me this morning, that the view of the windward side of
108 ASPECT OF OAHU.
Maui was so distinct and fine, for two or three hours before daylight, that he thought seriously of calling me on deck to enjoy it. I went up at six o'clock. We were then far past the channel separating it from Morokai, and were rapidly ap- proaching that between this latter island and Oahu. At seven o'clock, when off the north end of Mo- rokai, we descried one of the headlands of Oahu in the neighbourhood of Diamond Hill, rising dimly, like a conical islet, from the water.
Our approach after this was very rapid ; and, in the course of a couple of hours, the whole of the eastern side came in view. As we drew in with the land, so as to distinguish the objects on shore, we were all greatly disappointed in its appearance — more so, no doubt, from having so recently left the luxuriance and verdure of Hido. Instead of the freshness and beauty of aspect exhibited, when first seen by us in 1823, it looked as if seared with fire ; and in place of green hills and rich vallies, every part, except the very tops of the mountains, was of a dead ash colour, and seemingly just swept by a siroc of the desert. The sight quite dispirited me — I had been told at Hido, that both at Maui and Oahu there had been the longest drought known for many years — but I was not prepared for such a general and deforming evidence of it.
We reached Diamond Point before noon ; and in passing it, as the groves and wide spreading plantations of Waititi, and the vallies and moun- tains behind them, came upon the eye — followed
ARRIVAL AND LANDING. 109
by the long plain of Honolulu — the port itself ad- joining— and the distant country beyond, to the range of mountains far in the west — the same marks of dearth were seen stamped on the whole coast ; and so different was the entire face of the country, in this respect, from every former ap- pearance, that I could scarce believe it ; the rich and beautiful Oahu, which all visitors have con- sidered the most pleasant and fertile, and been accustomed to call the garden of the islands of the »Toup.
We dropped anchor at twelve o'clock, in a range with three or four ships in the roads, just as Adams, the pilot, boarded us ; and were, at the same time, about announcing our arrival by a salute, when informed by him that the commander of the fort and all the chiefs were some miles in the country, and that it could not be answered immediately. It was, therefore, postponed, till arrangements on the subject should be made with the proper authorities.
As soon as a boat could be lowered, Lieutenant Dornin and myself were on our way to the shore — he to apprize the American consul of Captain Finch's arrival, and I to meet the embraces of our friends. We were two miles off ; and, before reaching the entrance of the harbour, saw a boat approaching, in which I recognized Mr. Jones, the consul. Mr. Dornin having a packet for him, we lay on our oars and spoke her. Mr. French, an American merchant, and Mr. Charlton, his Bri- tannic Majesty's consul, were also in the boat.
110 IMPROVEMENTS IN HONOLULU.
After an interchange of civilities,, and the delivery of the package, we resumed our course, and en- tered the harbour, filled with ships — whalers, mer- chantmen, &c., and the native craft — and exhibiting every appearance of a busy and thriving port. Several stone quays are now built, at different places, along that which was only a sand-beach when we left. We landed at one of these, oppo- site the American consulate ; and immediately directed our way towards the mission-house.
There are very considerable changes in the ap- pearance of the town near the water ; and very great improvements. The coral platform, along the walls of the fort and adjoining point, which on our arrival in 1823 was the court end of the metro- polis, is now converted to a more appropriate use — that of a dock-yard and kind of depot for naval stores. At least so I judged, from seeing one or two small vessels on the stocks there, and many others undergoing repairs — a large two- story store-house of stone, &c. &c. The neat wooden building erected at the same place by the regent Kaahumanu, and occupied, as you recollect, by Lord Byron during his visit, has been removed into the town, on the level ground, some distance from the water, near Mr. Jones, and fitted with green blinds, a flag-staff, and look-out, stands as conspicuous object, both from the water and on shore, as the " Blonde Hotel" owned by Go- vernor Boki. Besides this, there are many other well-built European-looking structures. Among them a store-house and office of Mr. Charlton,
MEETING WITH THE MISSIONARIES. Hi
near the water, at the corner of the fort next the town — and a very large and convenient establish- ment, consisting- of warehouse, shop, counting- room, and other apartments, belonging to Mr. French. Indeed, every appearance indicates an ad- vance in the importance and business of the place.
The arrival of ships seems nowr so much an every-day occurrence, as scarce to attract attention, except among the gentlemen in business ; and when we landed, the name and character of the Vincennes were not yet generally known on shore. No suspicion of my arrival was entertained by my former associates till we had nearly reached the mission-houses ; when we met the Rev. Mr. Clark and Dr. Judd, of the last reinforcement to the mission, and shortly after, Mr. Rugbies, with our friend Mr. Hunnewell, still engaged in mercantile pursuits at Honolulu.
My first call I felt due to Mr. and Mrs Bingham ; and therefore made my way to the door of the old wooden house, opening into the rooms they occupy. From Mrs. Bingham's exclamation, in an inner apartment, on hearing my voice, and Mr. Bingham's hurried entrance, I ascertained that we had taken them by entire surprise — which Mrs. Judd verified as she rushed into the room, from an adjoining part of the house. You, my dear
H , can better imagine what my feelings, and
what theirs were, for a time, than I describe them. There was a mingling of pain with the fulness of our joy, which perhaps all have expe- rienced in meeting those they love, after a long
112 MEETING WITH THE MISSIONARIES.
separation ; and for which Cowper well accounts , when he resolves it into a necessity, interwov< with our natures and our conditions, that n< earthly happiness shall be without its alloy. At the end of a half hour, and after partaking of some refreshment, Mr. Dornin returned to the vil- lage and on board ship, I having made arrange- ments for a boat towards evening.
It would be impossible to give even an outline of the topics of our conversation, they were so numerous, so varied, and so incongruous — em- bracing missionaries, chiefs, and people — friends in all parts of the world — scenes of joy and scenes of sorrow — events past, present, and to come; and calling into exercise ten hundred feelings of joy and sadness, of hope and apprehension, of thanksgiving and prayer ; and in such power, as to rouse to excitement many of the strongest affections of the heart.
After an hour or two spent in this manner, I pre- pared to return onboard ship. Mr. Bingham would have accompanied me to call on Captain Finch and my fellow- officers, but it was becoming late — the ship three miles distant — and the captain had sent to ask of him the favour of a translation into the Hawaiian language of the President's letter, and some remarks of his own in an address to the king, to be in readiness for an audience with the government, as soon as the necessary arrangements could be made. On my way to the town, I called on Mrs. Chamberlain and Mrs. Shepherd, who live in a couple of neat stone cottages, near the printing-
RECEPTION BY THE KING. 113
office, and on Mrs. Clark, Mrs. Ruggles, and Mrs. Green, at Mr. Ellis' s house. Mr. Green is at present on the N. W. coast of America, on an exploring visit among the natives there.
I saw none of the chiefs or people that I knew. The king was out riding — Governor and Madam Boki up the valley toward the Pari — and Kaahu- manu, the regent, at her country-house at Manoa. Expresses had been immediately sent, in the various directions, to inform them of the arrival of the Vincennes. The ex- queen, Namahana, died two or three weeks ago ; and Governor Adams, of Hawaii, and the Princess Harieta, and Governor Hoapiri, of Maui, only returned to their respective resi- dences, after attending her during her sickness, and at her funeral, a few days ago. I reached the ship just before dark , and thus have at once furnished you with an account of my first day at Oahu.
LETTER L.
RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN FINCH AND PARTY, BY THE KING AND REGENT.
Interchange of Salutes. — Walk to the King's residence.— Description of the Palace and its Furniture.— Dress of the King. — Presentation. — Address of Captain Finch.— Letter of the Secretary of the Navy. — Delivery of the Presents. — Personal appearance of the King.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 15th, 1829.
AT daybreak yesterday we fired a gun for the pilot, and the boats of the shipping at present
114 INTERCHANGE OF SALUTES.
here : and were towed into the harbour, during the calm of the morning- ; and, before breakfast, safely moored in an open and pleasant birth.
At the request of the captain I went early on shore to learn from Mr. Jones, the arrangements made for the firing- of a salute, and the reception of himself and officers by the king and chiefs ; having- ascertained that the salute would be ex- pected and returned at twelve o'clock, and tl audience held directly after, I went to the mission- house to apprize Mr. Bingham of the necessity of his being prepared with the translations at that time ; and also to deliver an invitation from Captain Finch, to such of the missionaries as might have it in their power to attend, to be at the palace at the hour appointed for the levee. Mr. Jones had been requested to present the compli* ments of the captain, in like manner, to the resi- dents and visitors of respectability in port and to invite their presence on the occasion.
At twelve o'clock wre fired twenty-one guns, the established national salute here, and soon after- ward Captain Finch, attended by as large a num- ber of the officers as could be spared from neces- sary duty, left the ship. All were in full dress, and we pulled away, in a handsome procession of four boats, while the guns of the fort were still answering those of the Vincennes. The last of these had just been fired, as the captain's gig ap- proached the moorings of the Tamehameha, the king's finest vessel, which is kept in naval order, in the centre of the port, with a long pennant, banner, and jack flying. Much to our surprise she
THE KING'S ESTABLISHMENT. 115
commenced a salute in compliment to the captain's landing, which brought us to our " oars/' as the technical phrase is,, and obliged the Vincennes, as a matter of course, to return gun for gun, accord- ing to established etiquette, making in all eighty- four, whose bellowings had echoed far and wide, in little more than twenty minutes. Our landing, consequently, was attended at least with noise enough.
We disembarked in front of the consulate, where we were expected to take a glass of wine before Mr. Jones should conduct us to the palace. Here all the residents and visitors of respectability, includ- ing the British consul, and several other English gentlemen, were assembled ; and, after a general introduction, a few moments' conversation, and some refreshment, a messenger announced the rea- diness of his Majesty KAUIKEAOULI, or TAMEHA- MEHA III., to receive us : and we formed a pro- cession, led by the captain with the consuls on either side.
The king's establishment, but lately erected, is quite in the outskirts of the town, having the open plain towards Punchbowl Hill immediately in the rear. In going to it, we consequently passed through a principal part of the village. A noisy rabble, such as no part of the island but Honolulu would now present, lined our way on both sides nearly the whole distance ; large numbers of whom, running ahead through the dusty streets, in order to take an additional view after our whole num- ber had passed once by them, made no little an-
116 WALK TO THE
noyance, in addition to the heat of a noon-day sun, by the dirt they raised, notwithstanding- the attendance of police officers, here and there, keep them from pressing too closely upon us. limits to which they could accompany us, howev< were before long pointed out by a large whil gate, the entrance to the grounds of the royi residence, at the end of a street we were follow ing, beyond which none but our party were allow to pass.
On entering it we found ourselves in a spacioi yard of some acres, enclosed on all sides by a well constructed and high fence, and furnished with two other gates, similar to that through which we had passed — one, on another street, in the direction of the residences of most of the chiefs in the neigh- bourhood of the chapel and mission-houses, and the other inland towards the hill and valleys. Every thing within appeared exceedingly neat. On the side of the square at which we entered, and near the gate, there are three or four good-sized houses, but not differing externally from most of the better kind of native dwellings. These, we were informed, are the dining and sleeping-rooms, offices, &c. of the king and his household. At a considerable distance, on the opposite side, stands the palace, a fine lofty building of thatch, some hundred or more feet in length, fifty or sixty broad, and forty or more high, beautifully finished, and ornamented at the corners, from the ground to the peak, and along the ridge of the roof, with a rich edging of fern leaves ; the dark brown of which,
KING'S RESIDENCE. 117
in their dried state, contrasts prettily with the lighter colour and smoothness of the general co- vering. It is enclosed by a handsome and substan- tial palisade fence,, with two gates, one large in front, and a smaller at the side, and a pebbled area within.
As we entered the square, the royal guard were seen under arms, beside the palace, at the gate we were to pass, in double file of a hundred men each, the whole being in a complete uniform of white, with cuffs and collars of scarlet, and black caps. The captain, our old friend Kahuhu, was at their head, in a handsome dress of scarlet, with gold lacings, and expensive sword. As Captain Finch passed, they presented arms, in a style perfectly en m'ditaire ; and at the same time Kekuanoa, now styled the General, from being at the head of the military forces of the king, appeared at the gate in the full and rich suit of a major-general ; and with the gracefulness and polish of a gentleman received the captain from the consuls, and ushered him through a folding-door of glass, into the interior.
Mr. Jones had said to me that the king's house was a very beautiful building, the most so of any that had ever been erected at the islands ; but scarce any thing that could have been told of it, as a structure in the native style, would have pre- pared me for the coup- d* ceil, as we passed the threshold.
The wrhole is one apartment, spacious, light, lofty, and truly elegan. All the timbers in sight.
118 DESCRIPTION OF THE
the numerous posts, rafters, and centre pillars, of a fine substantial size, and of a dark hard wo< hewn with the nicest regularity. The lashings ol sinnit, made of the fibres of the cocoanut bleached white, are put on with such neatness, and wrought into so beautiful a pattern, at close and regular intervals, as to give to the posts and rafters the appearance of being divided into natural sections by them ; and to produce, by the whiteness and nice workmanship of the braid, in contrast with the colours of the wood, an effect striking and highly ornamental.
But that which most attracted my admiration in the building, is an improvement, a device of native ingenuity, of which I was told wre then saw the first specimen, and which gives to the interior a finish as beautiful as appropriate to such an edifice ; it is a lining between the timbers and the thatch, screen- ing entirely from sight the grass of which the ex- ternal covering is composed ; and which always gave an air of rudeness, and a barn-yard look, even to the handsomest and best finished of their former establishments. The manufacture is from a small, round mountain vine, of a rich chestnut colour, tied horizontally, stem upon stem, as closely as pos- sible, in the manner, and probably in imitation of the painted window-blinds of split bamboo, brought from the East-Indies, once much in fashion, and still occasionally seen in the United States.
The whole of the inside, from the floor to the peak of the roof — a height of at least forty feet — is covered with this, seemingly in one piece ; im-
PALACE AND ITS FURNITURE. 119
parting", by the beauty of its colour and entire effect, an air of richness to the room, not dissimilar to that of the tapestry and arras hanging's of more polished audience chambers.
The floor also is a novelty, and an experiment here : consisting, in place of the ground strewn with rushes or grass, as a foundation for the mats, as was formerly the case, of a pavement of stone and mortar, spread with a cement of lime, having all the smoothness and hardness of marble. Upon this, beautifully variegated mats of Tauai were spread, forming a carpet as delightful and appro- priate to the climate, as could have been selected, Large windows on either side, and the folding doors of glass at each end, are hung with draperies of crimson damask ; besides which, and the mats on the floors, the furniture consists of handsome pier tables, and large mirrors ; of a line of glass chandeliers suspended through the centre, with lustres and candelabra of bronze, ornamented or- molu, affixed to the pillars lining the sides and ends of the apartment ; and of portraits in oil of the late king and queen, taken in London, placed at the upper end, in carved frames richly gilt.
Such, dear H— , is the reception room of his Majesty of Hawaii, in 1829. Contrasted with the one, into which you were received, in 1823 — in these days considered highly respectable and ele- gant— and with that in which Lord Byron and suite were ushered, in 1825, the difference is equal, almost, to the improvements that would take place in a century, in the abodes of royalty in most other
120 DRESS OF THE KING.
countries ; and greater than that which now exists between the new and the old rooms in Wind- sor Castle. I do not fear being thought extrava- gant in saying, that this palace of KAUIKEAOULI would, even in the Royal Park, form a rustic pavilion, in which his Majesty of England might occasionally lounge, not only with comfort, but with delight.
But as there are no ante-rooms, I am keeping you a long time in the presence, without an ap- proach to the throne. In the middle of the room, about sixty feet in front, or two-thirds the length of the apartment, the young monarch was seated in an arm-chair, spread with a splendid cloak of yellow feathers. His dress wras the Windsor uni- form of the first rank, with epaulettes of gold — the present of George IV. — and an under-dress of white, with silk stockings and pumps. On a sofa, immediately on his right, were Kaahumanu, the regent, and the two ex- queens, Kinau — at present the wife of General Kekuanaoa — and Kekauruohe. Being in mourning, they were in well-made and becoming dresses of black, with ruffs, and caps of white, trimmed with love-ribbon. Governor and Madame Boki had not arrived from the country ; and the only other chiefs in the room were those of inferior rank, holding different offices in the establishment of the king, and who, in militai dresses, stood in household style, at intervals some yards against the walls.
A range of chairs swept off on either side froi the king and chiefs, in a circle towards the entrance.
PRESENTATION. 121
for the accommodation of our party ; and at the foot of the row on the left hand were Mr. Bing- ham, Mr. and Mrs. Ruggles, Mr. and Mrs. Cham- berlain, Dr. and Mrs. Judd, Mrs. Green, Miss Ward, Mr. Clark, and Mr. Shepherd, of the Mission.
The introduction, by Mr. Jones, took place in the order of rank. I did not need the civility ; and only regretted, that a first meeting with those in whom I feel so deep an interest, should be on a formal and public occasion. Our greetings, how- ever, were most cordial, as I passed them in my order in the train ; and were renewed again and again, on their part, as soon as the courtesy due to my companions as strangers, allowed them to direct their attention to me. This ceremony with the chieftains over, the captain and officers crossed the room to the missionaries, to interchange saluta- tions with them, when we became seated for busi- ness ; the captain on the left of the king, the con- suls next, with the gentlemen of the Vincennes and mission family on one side, and the merchants, visitors, residents, &c., to the number of thirty or forty, on the other.
Captain Finch, having chosen to avail himself of Mr. Bingham's services, as interpreter, requested him to take a seat at his side ; and then rising, read to the king, in a distinct and impressive man- ner, the following address.
King Tamehameha,
The president of the United States has con- fided to my care a written communication for your- VOL. n. G
122 ADDRESS OF
self, and such counsellors as you rely upon ; accoi panying it with various presents for each ; in t( timony of the good opinion he entertains of yoi individually, and to evince his desire for amity ai confidence in all intercourse that may subsist between your people and my countrymen.
That the genuineness of the letter may not be questioned, which might have been the case if the transmission had been intrusted to casual convey- ance, and to make it the more honourable to your- self, he has dispatched a ship of war for this and other purposes: and it is enjoined upon me as the commander, to deliver it in person into your keep- ing; to reiterate the expressions of good- will which it contains ; and to exhibit by my own de- portment, the sincerity of the motives which have actuated him.
The friendly and kind reception afforded by your government to one other of our national ships, the Peacock, has been most favourably represented by her commander, and doubtless has conduced greatly to the visit which I now make.
The improved state of your people has also been so interestingly described by one of your friends, the Rev. Mr. Stewart, now beside me, as to awaken among my countrymen at large, great benevolence of feeling towards you ; and it will be my study, and I trust I shall be warranted on my return among them, to strengthen their prepossessions in your favour, and to confirm the accounts of the good traits of character of our new acquaintances, the islanders, subject to your authority.
CAPTAIN FINCH. 123
With your leave I will now acquit myself of the pleasing duty devolving upon me, by reading and handing the document adverted to ; which illus- trates the light in which the president wishes to hold your nation ; and upon which you will, I hope, ponder often, deliberately, and fully.
The presents I also ask permission to distribute amongst those of your faithful friends for whom they are intended ; trusting that they will tend to the enlargement of knowledge, invite to social and rational enjoyments; and further secure enduring recollections of the assurances which I give of the disinterested friendship of the president and go- vernment of the United States.
W. C. B. FINCH.
October 14th, 1829.
Mr. Bingham having read a translation of this in the Hawaiian tongue, Captain Finch proceeded in the perusal of the document from the government
To TAMEHAMEHA III.,
KING OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Navy Department of the United States of America, City of Washington, 20th January, A.D. 1829.
By the approbation and direction of the president of the United States, I address you this letter, and send it by the hands of Captain William Compton Bolton Finch, an officer in our navy, commanding the ship of war Vincennes.
Captain Finch also bears to you, from the presi- dent, certain small tokens of regard, for yourself and the chiefs who are near to you, and is com-
124 LETTER OF THE
manded to express to you, in his name., the anxioi desire which he feels for your prosperity and a( vancement in the arts of civilized life, and for tl cultivation of harmony and good-will between yoi nation and the people of the United States. H( has heard, with interest and admiration, of the pid progress which has been made by your peopl< in acquiring a knowledge of letters and of the True Religion — the Religion of the Christian's Bible. These are the best, and the only means by which the prosperity and happiness of nations can be ad- vanced and continued ; and the president, and all men _every where who wish W7ell to yourself and your people, earnestly hope that you will continue to cultivate them, and to protect and encourage those by whom they are brought to you.
The president also anxiously hopes that peace, and kindness, and justice, will prevail between your people and those citizens of the United States who visit your islands ; and that the regulations of your government will be such as to enforce them upon all.
Our citizens who violate your laws, or interfere with your regulations, violate at the same time their duty to their own government and country, and merit censure and punishment. We have heard with pain that this has sometimes been the case ; and we have sought to know and to punish those who are guilty. Captain Finch is commanded di- ligently to inquire into the conduct of our citizens whom he may find at the islands ; and, as far as he has the authority, to ensure proper conduct and deportment from them.
SECRETARY OF THE NAVY. 125
The president hopes, however, that there are very few who so act as to deserve censure or pu- nishment ; and, for all others, he solicits the kind- ness and protection of your government, that their interests may be promoted, and every facility given to them in the transaction of their business. Among others, he bespeaks your favour to those who have taken up their residence with you, to promote the cause of religion and learning in your islands. He does not doubt that their motives are pure, and their objects most friendly to the happiness of your people ; and that they will so conduct themselves as to merit the protecting kindness of your go- vernment.
One of their number, the Rev. C. S. Stewart, who resided for some time with you, has received the favour of his government in an appointment to an office of religion in our navy, and will visit you in company with Captain Finch.
The president salutes you with respect, and wishes you peace, happiness, and prosperity.
[L. s.] SAM. L. SOUTHARD.
Secretary of the Navy.
This also was immediately made intelligible to the king and chiefs, by a translation in the native language, read by Mr. Bingham.
Both documents were listened to with intense in- terest. I never before saw Kaahumanu more ex- cited. She seemed scarce able to command her feel- ings ; and before Mr. Southard's letter was finished, her eyes were filled with tears. " Maitai — maitai
126 DELIVERY OF THE PRESENTS.
no/" " good — good indeed!" uttered with the quick tone in which he usually speaks when pleased, was the hasty comment of the king1 ; while the females, with bright faces, re-echoed the appro- bation, Cf maitaino — maitai no /"
Both papers were then placed by the captain in the hands of the king1, who received them with more formal expression of his satisfaction by say- ing, that himself and chiefs were highly favoui by such a communication ; and acknowledged his obligations to Captain Finch as the bearer of it, am for the kind sentiments with which it had been de- livered. The servants having charge of the presents were now called, and these placed before the king. A pair of globes, celestial and terrestrial, and large map of the United States, for himself : a sil- ver vase, inscribed with the arms of the United States, and her name, for the regent : two silver goblets, with inscriptions of a similar character, for the princess ; and two large maps of the world, one for Governor Boki, and the other for Governor Adams.
The kind acceptance of these, led to a renewal of the sentiments of good- will previously manifested on the part of the captain ; in the midst of which, Go- vernor Boki, accompanied by Manuia captain of the fort, in a riding suit witli cap and whip in hand, made his appearance. He had just dismounted ; and apologized for the lateness of his arrival and undress, by saying, that both himself and Madam Boki were ill when summoned to the palace ; and the latter still too unwell to come to town. After
PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE KING. 127
a moment's conversation with him, the king- invited the captain and officers to a glass of wine, and led the way to a side table, handsomely laid with a superb set of cut glass, stained and ornamented with cameos in white, on large trays of silver plate. This movement broke up the formality of the seated circle, and various familiar groups were formed in different parts of the room, engaged in easy and pleasant conversation.
TAMEHAMEHA III., or as more generally styled, KAUIKEAOULI, instead of the little boy you knew in 1825, is now a fine, stout young man of sixteen ; as graceful, well-bred, and perfectly gentleman- like in his whole deportment, as any lad of his age in the most polished circles of our country. I was highly gratified with the dignity and propriety of his demeanour ; and still more so to learn that his private character is as unexceptionable, as his public appearance is manly and becoming the sta- tion he occupies.
At the end of an hour we took our leave, much pleased with the whole entertainment — the guards, still on post, presenting arms again as we passed. The .officers expressed themselves astonished at the reception ; and seemed half disposed to charge me with having deceived them in the representa- tions I had made — both in my published account, and in private conversations — of the state of ad- vancement among the people. On disavowing this, and expressing the surprise I had myself experi- enced— notwithstanding my knowledge of their state only four years ago — they replied, that the
128 EVENING PRAYER MEETING.
truth then must be,, which is unquestionably the fact, that the reports given of the people by the missionaries and by visitors, have by no means kept pace with the rapid strides making1 by them, in the various departments of civilization and re- finement.
LETTER LI.
A MORNING VISIT TO THE PRINCIPAL CHIEFS.
Evening prayer meeting. — Letter of the Regent. — Keku- anaoa, and his residence. — Principal apartment, — Kekau- ruohe and Kanaina. — Residence of Kaahumanu. — Pre- sent and former state.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 16th, 1829.
ON leaving the palace yesterday, Captain Finch and myself, accompanied by Mr. Jones, called on the ladies of the British consul's family and on those of the mission ; and took dinner afterwards at the American consulate.
The usually weekly prayer meeting of the mis- sion family occurred in the evening. Lieutenant Stribling and myself attended ; and in the partici- pation of its elevating and happy influences, in the
midst of those who we, dear H , must ever
regard, in a peculiar manner, as our sisters and our brothers — in joining in their praises and their prayers, in receiving their affectionate Christian salutations, and in imparting to them such encou- ragement and exhortation as I could present from
LETTER OF THE REGENT. 129
the land of their fathers, and the churches of their special love — I enjoyed one of those seasons of Christian communion and sympathy, which cheers and animates the heart with a power above the charm of ordinary intercourse.
Early after the introduction to the government, Captain Finch received the following note, in the native language, from the Regent.
Captain Finch,
I am made joyful by your arrival here, with good counsel for us. Now, if you desire it, there is the house of two stories, built by my brother Karaimoku ; it is quite at your service for your accommodation to lodge on shore.
The house is not very good — we are not very well furnished, but I am happy to show you hospi- tality and kindness.
ELIZABETH KAAHUMANU.
Oahu, October 15th, 1829.
The house referred to, is the large stone resi- dence erected by Karaimoku, during the visit of the royal party in England. Since his death it has remained unoccupied, and is unfurnished, which explains the apology at the close of the communication. I subjoin the answer.
TO ELIZABETH KAAHUMANU. Regent,
Your letter is very gratifying to me, and I give you thanks for it.
I would accept the house which you offer as a residence during my short stay here, but it has not o3
130 KEKUANAOA AND
been my custom to live outside of the walls of my vessel.
Mr. Jones,, our consul, has already offered me a suitable apartment, but I declined accepting it.
I value this proof of your desire to extend hospitality to me quite as much as if I actually enjoyed it.
I sincerely desire your welfare, and am happy in having- been the herald of advice which you esteem good for you.
Let what my government has said to you engage your deepest attention ; honest motives have dic- tated the language it has used.
May you be always happy
W. C. B. FINCH.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Honolulu, October 16th, 1829.
After this reply had been dispatched this morn- ing, I accompanied Captain Finch in an informal call on the principal chiefs at their respective resi- dencies.
We landed at eleven o'clock ; and following the street towards the mission-houses, made our visits according to the order of dwellings, without re- ference to the relative rank of the occupants. The first enclosure we came to is that of Kekuanaoa. Like that of the king, it is large and neatly kept, differing entirely in this respect from the state in which the precincts of their habitations wrere once seen. The general was walking in front of one of the buildings, and on perceiving us, hastened him- self to point out the entrance and open the gate.
HIS RESIDENCE. 131
On this chieftain, at least, the peep had of the Court of St. James's, when in Great Britain with his late royal master, has not been lost. There is much of the ease and courteousness of high life in all his movements, and in his manners, figure, dress, and whole deportment, that which would secure to him the epithet of a " gentleman" in any society.
We had approached the rear, as was discovered, instead of the front of his establishment ; and to reach the principal apartment, or rather house — for every room is a distinct building — were conducted by him first through that which, from a spread table and sideboard, evidently was a dining hall ; and then through another with accommodations for sleeping. I by no means regretted this, how- ever, when I perceived the perfect neatness, good taste, and keeping of each. Had 1 entered them by accident, without knowing to whom they be- longed, I should not have thought of being in the residence of a native, but, from the finish of every part, and from the furniture, in that of some foreign gentleman.
The sitting room is delightful, A large door at each end opens a fine draught for the air : the floor was beautifully carpeted with mats ; while, in the centre, stood a rich couch of yellow damask, with armed chairs placed on either side, so that those occupying them enjoyed all the benefit of the breeze sweeping through. On one side, a native lounge or divan extended the whole length of the apartment. Spread with a succession of the finest
132 PRINCIPAL APARTMENT.
mats beautifully variegated with stained grass, and furnished with round pillows of damask and silk velvet, it looked more tempting to us,, on en- tering from the noontide heat of a tropical day, than the ottomans of more polished drawing- rooms would, under circumstances of less lassitude. A pier table covered with a -rich cloth, a large mir- ror, and a portrait of Manuia, completed the furniture on this side. On that opposite, a cur- tain or screen of handsome chintz, looped up a foot or two at the bottom, partially disclosed, as it waved with the wind, the boudoir of Madam Kekuanoa, a principal article of its furniture being an elegant writing table, with papers and books in the language of the country. From this she appeared to have risen as we entered the farther door. Her dress, manner, and whole deportment in receiving us, were those of a lady. A neatly bound copy of the Gospel of Luke, in the Ha- waiian version, the first I had seen, was found lying on the sofa, with a blank book in which she had been writing.
The captain was exceedingly pleased with this specimen of private life ; and for some time could scarce say any thing, but in admiration of the whole establishment and in gratulation to our friends, at the comparative luxury of comfort in which they were living. After much pleasant con- versation, which I was enabled, with the assistance of Kekuanaoa's English, to interpret, and a glass of wine politely handed by the master of the house himself, for not a common native was within
KEKAURUOHE AND KANAINA. 133
hearing — a change which you can scarce credit when you think of the dirty, idle throng formerly ever swarming about the houses and visitors of the chiefs — we took leave, saying, that we intended continuing our calls among their compeers. On hearing this, they both exclaimed, " kakou pu" " all of us together ;" and the lady taking the arm of the captain, and the general one of mine, we proceeded a few rods farther to the house of Ke- kauruohe the ex- queen, and her husband, Kanaina. These two, also, are among the most interesting of the aristocracy ; and, of their claims to respect and attention, we needed no other proof than that afforded on the present occasion. The entrance is by a large folding door — the lower pannels painted green, and the upper part of glass — into a spa- cious room floored with mats, and furnished, as that we had left, in its whole length on one side with an inviting- lounge, and on the opposite with a side table and mirror. A semicircle of chairs, with a centre table, occupied the middle ; and at each of the further corners, stood a handsome cabinet, surmounted by a bookcase top, with glass doors and silk hangings. At the one, the lady of the house was seated, and at the other her hus- band ; both engaged in writing, with books, slates, and papers around them. A curtain of chintz separated this room from one of equal size behind: of which a tent door in the centre, festooned with loops and buttons, gave so much of a view, as to show it to be a large and appropriately furnished sleeping and dressing room.
134 RESIDENCE OF
We were received here with the same kindness and ease of manner observed at the general's. Mr. Bingham, hearing that we were in the vicinity, came in ; and by his facility as interpreter, added to the pleasantness of the visit. The captain ad- verted to the manner in which they were occupied on our entrance, and requested to see their hand- writing. They both write with great readiness ; and the husband with a freedom and command of hand that would class him among good penmen anywhere. Both are among the most studious and improving of their compeers, and merit the encomium and encouragement, which the captain was kind enough to bestow upon the evidences he had of their attainments in the elements of lite- rature. Before leaving, a well dressed servant was summoned, and refreshments of wine, &c. offered ; and salutations and good wishes inter- changed, with as much urbanity and good grace on their part as if they had been accustomed to such usages from childhood.
On saying that we were going still farther to the regent's, the whole company joined us ; and we proceeded to her residence.
Every thing here, was riot less pleasant and interesting than at the other houses, though there was more of the air of an old lady's mansion. An easy chair, and low old fashioned sofa, both covered with chintz, were conspicuous articles of furniture ; and two young chiefs, a girl and a boy, the children of Kehuanaoa, hanging about her, like spoiled pets on a fond grandmamma at home.
KAAHUMANU. 135
The old queen herself was in high good hu- mour. With her portly figure and commanding face, in a handsome dress of black silk, a black crape shawl, and white collar and cap of lace, we felt as if before a respectable matron of our own nation ; and returned her salutations with as much respect and good- will as they were with kindness given. The children, like all present, were dressed in the European style ; the girl, four years old, in a white muslin, with a blue silk cap and ostrich feathers; and the boy, about two, also in white, with cap of wrought muslin, trimmed with lace and rib- bons. Two female servants only were in attend- ance— Kanakina, as feather- bearer to her majesty — and a pretty, modest looking girl in blue silk and plain handkerchief, as maid in waiting, be- hind her mistress's chair.
Much lively and agreeable conversation took place, principally, on our part, in congratulating- them on their advancement in the true sources of enjoyment, and on theirs, in expressing their hap- piness in our visit, and in the kind advice received from our government and from Captain Finch. I know not when I have myself been more highly de- lighted, or more affectingly impressed, with the changes which have taken place here, and are still rapidly going on. In a single circle now before me, I beheld five of the highest chiefs of the islands — those whom I had myself known as naked, de- bauched heathen, not only addicted to vice, but glo- rying in their shame — respectably and even taste- fully dressed ; demeaning themselves with all the
136 PRESENT AND FORMER STATE.
propriety and courteousness of civilized society ; modest and decorous in all their actions ; pure and intelligent in their conversation ; and surrounded, in the furniture and accommodations of their dwel- lings,, not merely by the comforts, but also by many of the elegancies of an advanced state of improve- ment ; and this, most evidently, not for the exhi- bition of an hour, but in proof of their present ordi- nary mode of life. In view of the magnitude and extent of the change, I could but inwardly exclaim — especially as I looked on Kaahumanu, who for fifty- three years lived and hardened in all the gross- ness of paganism, a debauchee in private character, a terrific despot in her public rule — surely it is a truth, that <( the eyes of these have been opened, and they turned from darkness unto light, and from the power of Satan unto God /"
Scarcely any thing in the contrast, passing in my mind, struck me more forcibly than that connected with the appearance of the children. In place of being utterly unclothed, as would have been the case ten, and even five years ago, left entirely to the management of a rude train of attendants, and screaming with terror at the approach or look of any civilized being, we beheld them neatly and ele- gantly clad, differing from children at home only in their colour, and receiving not only the fondlings of their parents and relatives, but courting, by the cleanliness of their whole persons and every appear- ance, the caresses of the captain and myself.
Here also we were offered refreshments, at a sideboard spread with cake, wine, &c. On com-
EVENING DRIVE. 137
pleting our visit, we went to the printing-- office, where native workmen were busily engaged in set- ting type, and in working the press. A call on some of the ladies of the mission — leaving our cards for the king, who was not at home — and a visit of a few minutes to Mr. Marin, the Spanish resident, where we tasted a very palatable wine, the production of his own vineyard, made it past four o'clock when we reached the ship to dinner.
LETTER LII.
EVENING DRIVE AND VISIT TO THE VALLEY OF MANOA.
Evening scene. — Equipage of the American Consul and others taking the air. — Country-house of Kaahumanu, and the prophet's chamber.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 18th, 1829.
Two evenings since, Mr. Bingham gave Lieut. Stribling and myself a drive as far as Allen's on the plain. It was at a delightful hour of the day ; and as most of the gentry were taking the air, we had an opportunity of judging of the degree of im- provement, in point of equipage, &c., made at the metropolis. The vehicle in which we rode is the property of the mission ; but, in place of the ox- cart and porter's barrow of former years — in both
of which I remember you, my dear H , had
occasionally the honour of a seat — it is a light
138 EQUIPAGE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL
painted waggon, of the kind called Dearborn in America, drawn by a good horse, affording a com- fortable, and, for this part of the world, a respec- table conveyance. Several of these, belonging to the chiefs and residents, were seen at different points of the road, besides numbers of horsemen, both foreigners and natives, genteelly equipped — among the latter of whom we recognized the general and his brother-in-law, Kanaina.
The American consul has a country seat on the plain towards Manoa ; and a principal equipage met by us belongs to him. It was built at Oahu, and is rather a nondescript, something between a New England pedlar's waggon and a coach, early after " the birth- day of invention" in that luxury. It is constructed almost exclusively of wood, with Venetian blinds in place of curtains; is swung low, and has a wooden boot in the centre for the feet, descending almost to the ground. With wheels and carriage of red, body of sky blue, and a red box high in front for a native driver, it makes no incon- siderable display as it rumbles over the plain. It was drawn by one horse, and contained two or three gentlemen, one of whom I perceived to be our Captain.
Shortly afterwards, a gig without a top, very similar in its style and finish to the preceding, ex- cept in something of a tilbury height, and appa- rently of the same manufacture, was seen dashing at full speed up the street. It contained two gaily dressed females in opera hats, with streamers of satin flying far behind ; the one on the right bear-
AND OTHERS TAKING THE AIR. 139
ing the reins, and occasionally flourishing a whip, with all the tact of a leader of the ton, figuring in curricle or phaeton on a more distinguished drive. As they whirled past, I recognized in their light complexions and broad faces the sisters, — • and Mrs. M
The variety was still kept up in the appearance behind these of four fashionables on horseback ; two, in bonnets and mantles, mounted on side sad- dles, in the manner in which ladies ride in America and England ; and two a la Peru, astride, with pantalets and the Manilla hat, the poncho alone being needed to complete the costume of the coast.
To the picture thus presented in single figures and in groupings add one or two handsome and well finished gigs, such as are driven by the wealth- iest gentlemen in our country, and in the scene you will perceive, I think, in contrast with the recollection of by-gone years, evidences of a march of body , if not of (< the march of mind."
Allen keeps pace with his neighbours in im- provements. All the numerous buildings in his establishment are in good order, and now very conspicuous, both from land and sea, by being stuccoed and whitewashed. From the same cause, the mission-houses look less gloomy than they did; and by the whiteness of the stone cottages and printing-office opposite the old wooden edifice, throw quite an air of cheerfulness over the naked- ness and sterility of that part of the plain.
The valley of Manoa, you recollect, was always
140 COUNTRY-HOUSE OF KAAHUMANU,
a favourite resort of mine — this afternoon Mr. Bingham drove me in a waggon to it. There is now a good carriage road in that direction, as far as the country house of Kaahumanu, nearly five miles from Honolulu. Her residence is beau- tifully situated , and the selection of the spot quite in taste. The house is an inferior building, but stands on the height of a gently swelling knoll, commanding, in front, an open and extensive view of all the rich plantations of the valley; of the mountain streams meandering through them, and the humble habitations of the farmer sprinkled around ; of the district of Waititi ; and of Dia- mond Hill, and a considerable part of the plain, with the ocean far beyond. On the right, the ground rises rapidly for a few rods, to a thicket of hibiscus and eugenia, at the foot of a magnificent mountain, exhibiting from the base to its summit a perpendicular height of a thousand feet — as rich a variety of projecting cliff and wild recess, of dripping rocks and mantling foliage, of graceful creeper, pendant shrub, and splendid flower, as Arcadia itself can boast. On the left, there is a gradual descent, from the house, of two or three hundred feet to the depth of the valley. Here this is half a mile wide, and bounded at that dis- tance, by a spur of mountain, which, commencing at the entrance of the valley on the plain, two or three miles in front, rises first in uncovered swell- ings, but rapidly assumes, as it runs inland, a bolder formation, till in several places it presents a succession of broad based and regularly defined
AND THE PROPHET'S CHAMBER. 141
pyramids, beautifully verdant and tufted with wood ; giving- a most peculiar character to that section of the scenery.
Immediately behind the house, and partially flanking it on either side, is a delightful grove of the dark leaved and crimson blossomed Ohia, so thick and so shady as insensibly to remind one of Cowper's Wilderness at Olney — filled with cool and retired walks and natural retreats, and echoing to the cheerful notes of the little songsters, who find security in its shades to build their nest and lay their young. The view of the head of the valley inland, from the clumps arid single trees edging this copse, is very rich and beautiful ; pre- senting a circuit of two or three miles, delightfully variegated by hill and dale, wood and lawn, and enclosed in a sweep of splendid mountains, one of which in the centre rises to a height of three thou- sand feet.
In one edge of this grove, a few rods from the house, stands a little cottage built by Kaahumanu, for the accommodation of the missionaries who visit her when at this residence. It is scarce twelve feet square in the area, and not as many high ; but furnished with glazed windows and doors, a bed- stead and lounge, a small table and chair, answers delightfully as the prophet's chamber in the wall of her habitation ; and is very frequently occupied a day or two at a time, by one and another of the families most enervated by the heat and dust, the toil, and various exhausting cares of the establish- ment at the sea- shore.
142 IMPORTANCE OF A
While examining this little retreat, the even- tide, with its sober shades and meditative influences, began to approach; and feeling that we were in a place where prayer is wont to be made, as bre- thren united by many of the strongest ties, we spent amid the silence and quietude around one moment before our God, in praise for the past, and in prayer for all that is to come.
LETTER LIII.
EDICT OF THE KING IN ANSWER TO A MEMORIAL OF THE BRITISH RESIDENTS.
Importance of a Newspaper at the Islands. — Necessity of new Laws. — Legislative Enactments.— Ancient usage in respect to the trespass of animals. — Case of oppressive treatment by Foreigners — Rehearsal of the Laws An- swer to the Memahaluts.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 19, 1829-
THE degree of civilization to which the chiefs and many of the islanders have attained, and the increasing importance of this group as a place of commerce — as a maritime depot, and a resort for repairs and refreshment by whaling ships and other vessels traversing the Pacific, seem to render it both important and desirable that a monthly or other periodical newspaper, in the Hawaiian and English languages 9 should be published at this port. .
NEWSPAPER AT THE ISLAND. 143
It has been necessary, on several occasions, for two or three years past, to resort to printed hand- bills as a substitute for something of this cha- racter ; and the demand for these by the king- and chiefs is such, and the material for a useful publi- cation so abundant,, that were it possible for any of the missionaries, at present, to find time for the superintendence of it, the world would speedily be furnished with a " HAWAIIAN HERALD AND SAND- WICH ISLAND REGISTER." Captain Finch and several of the officers in the Vincennes have joined me in strong recommendations for such a paper.
A first order of the king and regent, after the audience on the 14th, was for printing, in hand-bills, the address of Captain Finch and the letter of the President, to be circulated among the nobles of the land, and the more intelligent of the people. This has been done ; and several copies politely sent, by the king, to Captain Finch and his officers. It had been preceded only a few days, by a document published, in like manner, by royal authority. This w as an edict, addressed by the government to the foreign residents ; and being the first official proclamation ever made by the chiefs to this class of dwellers in the land, is worthy of preservation. Every syllable of it is of unaided and unadvised native composition, and requires some preliminary explanations to make its meaning and force per- fectly intelligible.
Foreign residents of every grade, with few ex- ceptions, have ever denied the right of judicature over them, to the government of the islands ; and
144 NECESSITY OF NEW LAWS.
have tenaciously held the new political doctrine, that the laws of the country in which they dwell, are for their protection, and not their obedience. And not only this, but I believe I am warranted by facts in saying, that in general, they have been decidedly opposed to the establishment of all defined public laws, even for the government of the native subjects themselves, under a pretence that if laws were formed, they would be made by the missionaries ; but in reality, I fear, because they wished the whole nation to remain lawless, upon all points not affecting the interests of their own property or persons.
The abolition of idolatry, and adoption of the Christian religion, the consequent change in the whole condition of the people, the introduction of new customs and formation of new habits, the dis- semination of letters and truth, and the establish- ment of the press, have rendered new and whole- some laws not only desirable, but absolutely neces- sary. The most intelligent and influential of recenl visitors at the islands have seen this necessity, am have urged upon the government the importance of enacting and enforcing laws comformable to tin light and knowledge they now possess.
So early as the summer of 1825, Lord Byron during his visit in H. B. M. ship Blonde, at general council of the chiefs,, convened principally for the purpose of acknowledging the right of the present king to the throne, and of appointing regency during the minority, took occasion to sub- mit to them a brief schedule of civil polity adapted
LEGISLATIVE ENACTMENTS. 145
to their new state, and a set of maritime regula- tions in reference to foreign shipping1 frequenting the port. The last were put into immediate ope- ration,, to the abrogation of others, more unequal and exorbitant, previously existing.
The suggestions of this nobleman, however, re- ferred rather to the form of government, and the respective and relative rights of the king, chiefs, and people, and to the tenure of lands, &c. than to a criminal or municipal code ; and towards the close of the same year an attempt was made, by the regents and their associates, to lay a founda- tion for laws affecting these points. This was by a public discussion of the precepts of the Decalo- gue— as presenting the highest principles of moral and social action — at a council then convened ; with the design of publishing the ten command- ments without any penal obligations to their obe- dience, preparatory to the promulgation of specific laws founded upon them. Some of the missiona- ries had been invited by the regents, Karaimoku and Kaahumanu, to be present , on information of which among the residents, a party of leading in- dividuals from their number violently and riotously interrupted the council, with such menaces and threats against the members of the mission, even to the taking of life, that the chiefs were utterly intimidated, and for the time relinquished their purpose.
Two years afterwards, however, in December 1827, notwithstanding that the opposition tf foreigners in general to the establishment of all
VOL. II. H
146 ANCIENT USAGE IN RESPECT
legislative restraint on vice, had continued to in- crease rather than to diminish- — the king1 and chiefs in a general council, determined on the promulga- tion of laws against murder, theft, and adultery : the first to be punishable with death, and the other two with imprisonment in irons.
The proclamation of these, with their respective penalties, was first made by the king in person, supported by the Regent Kaahumanu, by Gover- nor Boki, and all the high chiefs, in a grove of cocoanut trees near the sea-shore, to an immense throng of the people and many foreigners. They were immediately reduced to printing, by the authority of the government, and extensively cir- culated in hand-bills. Shortly after an addition v as made to the code, of others against gambling, drunkenness, prostitution, a profanation of the sabbath, by improper amusements or labour, and against cohabitation, where the persons did not regard themselves as husband and wife.
These historical data will enable you fully to understand the first part of the edict. A detail of a different character is necessary to throw light on the second and third sections.
It is an ancient and established custom of the country, that any animal breaking through the fence or enclosure of a plantation, and injuring the crop contained in it, becomes forfeit to the pos- sessor of the premises. In most cases, however, a restoration to the original owner takes place, either with, or without a small compensation for the injury sustained.
TO THE TRESPASS OF ANIMALS. 147
A British resident, whose dwelling and gardens are in the immediate vicinity of a crowded popula- tion, chose, as appears on the face of the edict, without having1 given to the natives around any notice of his intention, to shoot every animal of his neighbours, whether fowl, pig, or goat, making its way into his grounds. This arbitrary proceeding, so different from the general usage among them- selves, offended and exasperated the islanders; and, on this point, the gentleman became obnoxious to their ill-will and resentment.
The large plain skirting the coast eastward of Honolulu is a common for the pasturage of all the horses, neat cattle, &c. in the vicinity, belonging either to the natives or foreigners. Open in one part to the beautiful and productive vall?y of Manao, the plantations bordering it there are ex- posed to depredations from the flocks and herds left grazing at night ; and it has been publicly ordered, and is customary, to have them secured in
yards, by their owners, every evening. Mr. ,
the gentleman alluded to, neglected this injunction, though specially requested to attend to it, and a fine milch cow of his herd becoming troublesome and destructive to one of the plantations, was caught and detained by the planter, with the in- tention of securing damages for the spoliations of Siis crop. On hearing this, Mr. • became ex- ceedingly angry • and in going to the man for the release of the animal, instead of offering a remune- ration for the injury sustained, reproved the seizure in violent and threatening terms.
H2
148 CASE OF OPPRESSIVE
The result was, that the cow making another in- road on the same premises, was shot by the farmer ; but escaped from the enclosure to the common before she fell and died.
This fact was soon reported to Mr. ; and,
joined by an American of equal rank, he mounted his horse, and riding- immediately to Manao, with- out reporting the case to the king, or any of the chiefs, or recognizing their authority to investigate the conduct, and punish the offences of their own subjects, seized the farmer, and pinioning his arms, tied a halter round his neck, and on horseback, dragged the native behind him three miles to the town. 4
The speed at which the gentleman rode was such, that the islander, after running till entirely exhausted, fell, and was hauled along the ground till greatly bruised — so much so, it is said, as to have several ribs injured, besides being much exco- riated— and till the cord round his neck was strang- ling him. An islander at hand, perceiving this, had the resolution to run and cut the rope with a knife, in the fear that unless immediately relieved he would die. On reaching Honolulu, he was, by the order of these gentlemen, put in irons, and thrust into the fort — the usual place of confinement — where he still remains, too ill to be removed.
These facts have been related to me, precisely as stated, by various natives, both chiefs and common people : some of them eye-witnesses of the whole transaction; and one, the individual who cut the cord, to save the life of the prisoner. A public
TREATMENT BY FOREIGNERS. 149
meeting- of the English residents was soon called, of which Mr. Charlton, the British consul, was appointed chairman. Affecting1 to consider their property, and even their lives, no longer in safety at the islands, it was resolved, that a memorial signed by the whole number, should be presented by their consul to the king, expressive of their fears, and appealing to the government for protection.
A document of this character was accordingly drawn up, and formally laid before the king, through Governor Boki as secretary of state, with a request that the answer might be carefully pre- pared, as it was to be transmitted to his Britannic majesty's minister for foreign affairs in London.
The king immediately called a council ; and the following answer was written, and delivered to Mr. Charlton ; a copy, at the same time, being sent to the mission press, with a request that it should be printed in a hand-bill, both in the English and na- tive language.
The memorialists were so little satisfied with the edict, that they denounced the most violent threats against its publication. The excitement on the sub- ject was such, that gentlemen who have ever been most friendly to the missionaries and their object, and the constant defenders of their characters, ear- nestly advised that the document should not be printed, lest unhappy consequences might result. But no satisfactory reason for disobliging the king and government, by refusing to print, being pre- sented, it was determined to hazard any ill conse- quences which might befall them, in the exercise
150 REHEARSAL OF THE LAWS.
of their just rights ; and they committed it to the press.
Furnished thus with its history, you will find some interest in a perusal of the article. The fol- lowing is a literal translation, printed on the same sheet with the original,, in the Hawaiian language.
(TRANSLATION.)
These are the names of the King1 of the Islands, and the Chiefs in Council.
KAUIKEA.OULI, the KING. KAAHUMANU, Regent. BOKI, Governor of O ah u. ADAMS KUAKINI, Governor of Ha- waii. MANUJA, KEKUANAOA. HINAU, AIKANAKA, PAKI, KINAU, JOHN Ii, JAMES KAHUHTJ.
Oaliu, October 7, 1829.
I. This is my decision for you. We assent to the request of the English residents ; we grant the pro- tection of the laws ; that is the sum of your pe- tition.
This therefore is my proclamation,, which I make known to you,, all people from foreign coun- tries : — The laws of my country prohibit murder, theft, adultery, prostitution, retailing ardent spirits at houses for selling spirits, amusements on the sabbath day, gambling, and betting on the sabbath day, and at all times.
If any man shall transgress any of these laws, he is liable to the penalty ; the same for every foreigner, and for the people of these islands — whoever shall violate these laws shall be punished.
This also I make known — The law of the great God of heaven, that is the great thing by which
ANSWER TO THE MEMORIALISTS. 151
we shall promote peace ; let all men who remain here obey it.
Christian marriage is proper for men and wo- men. But if a woman regard a man as her only husband, and the man regard the woman as his only wife, they are legally husband and wife ; but if the parties are not married, nor regard themselves as husband and wife, let them be forthwith entirely separate.
II. This is also our decision, which I now declare to you. We have seen your wickedness heretofore. You did not warn us that your door-yards and en- closed plantations were tabu before the time when our animals went into your inclosures ; you unhe- sitatingly killed our animals. But we warned you of the tabu of our plantations before the time when the animals came into them, even yours ; and then it was told again to you that have cattle ; but for some days past we have known your cattle to come in to eat up what we had planted ; on that account some of your cattle are dead.
This then is the way to obtain justice : if you judged the man guilty, you are not forthwith to punish him ; wait till we have a consultation first : then, had we judged him guilty, we would have given you damages ; but no, you rashly and sud- denly rcrjured the man ; that is one of the crimes of two of you. And we state to you all that the wound- ing of a beast is by no means equal to the wound- ing of a man, inasmuch as man is chief over all the beasts.
This is our communication to you all, ye parents
152 ANSWER TO THE MEMORIALISTS.
from the countries whence originate the winds : have compassion on a nation of little children,, very small and young-, who are yet in mental darkness, and help us to do right, and follow with us that which will be for the best good of this our country.
III. As to the recent death of the cow : she died for breaking a tabu for the protection of the plan- tation. The place was defended also by a fence built by the owner of the plantation. Having secured his field by a fence, what remained to be done was the duty of the owners of cattle, who were told by him who had charge of the plantation, to bring home their cattle at evening. He did tell them so ; but they did not regard it : and in the night they came in, but not by day. On that account the owner of the plantation hoped to recover damage ; for many were the cattle that were taken up before, but no damage was recovered for the crop they had de- voured ; the owners plead them off without paying damage, therefore he to whom belonged the crop, determined that one of the cattle should die for de- stroying the crop : for it had been said that if any of the cattle should come into the enclosure devour- ing the crop, such cattle would be forfeited, and be- come the property of the owner of the crop. Many have been seized, but they were begged off and given up again ; this has been done many times. Why then are you so quick to be angry ? For within the enclosure was the place where the cow was wounded, after which she made her way out. What then means your declaration, that the cow
A VOYAGE TO MAUF. 153
was wantonly shot in the common ? The cow would not have been killed for simply grazing1 in the com- mon pasture ; her feeding upon the cultivated crop was well known by those who had the care of the plantation.
(Signed) KAUIKEAOULI.
LETTER LIV.
VISIT AT LAI-IAIN A IN MAUI.
Preparations for a Voyage to Maui. — Arrival and Reception by the chiefs and people. — The Princess Harieta. — The Chief of Vraeruku and his wife. — Gifts of affection by the people. — Residence of the Richards. — College of Maaro. — New Cha- pel.— Country-house of Kekauonohi. — Return to Oahn.
IT. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 28th, 1829.
As you will readily believe., the accomplishment of an early visit to Lahaina was a first thought, after the arrival of our ship at the islands. The Vin- cennes was not expected to go to the windward again ; and, hearing of no immediate opportunity of making the' voyage, I determined, early after the official interview with the king and chiefs, to ex- press my wishes to the regent.
I accordingly called at her residence for this pur- pose, the second morning we were in the harbour. I found her seated, in a loose morning robe of richly striped satin, in front of a large mirror, making her toilet — her head being under the comb and brush of H 3
154 ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION
a native dressing maid. She was in the finest spirits, and on congratulating her on her seeming happiness, she replied that her heart had known nothing but joy since the arrival of the Vincennes, and since she heard the palapala, or letter of the president, and knew the manao, or sentiments of Captain Finch.
After a lively, and on her part quite facetious conversation, I mentioned the object of my call ; on which she immediately said that her own pilot boat — the fastest sailer among the vessels of the govern- ment— should be immediately at my command, to go to Maui and to return at my pleasure. The morning of the 19th was fixed for sailing ; and the captain, in addition to a leave of absence for ten days to myself, having given permission for four gentlemen of the steerage to join me, I had the pleasure of the company of Midshipmen Irving, Huntt, Bissell, and Anthony.
At the time appointed every thing was in readi- ness, and we sailed shortly after breakfast — Captain Finch having previously boarded us in his gig, to see the accommodations of the schooner, and our pros- pects of comfort for the passage. From all former experience of voyages in native vessels, I had not promised my companions much in this respect; and was agreeably disappointed in finding the cleanli- ness and whole state of our little craft equal to those of any similar vessel in our own country, with a commander, mate, and six or eight common sailors, differing only in colour from the crew of a coaster at home. In their dress, general deportment, civi- lities to us as passengers, and good management of
BY TliE CHIEFS AND PEOPLE. 155
the vessel, they appeared equally respectable and skilful.
The captain and mate seemed both piously dis- posed, and held worship on deck by reading- a chap- ter in the Testament, a hymn, and by prayer, regu- larly at the setting and rising of the sun. The prayers of both were as intelligent, appropriate, and apparently devout, as any that would be heard under similar circumstances, on the waters of Ame- rica or Great Britain.
By twelve o'clock on the 20th we were in full view of Lahaina, and soon after dropped anchor in- side of eight or ten whale ships, and, in a few mi- nutes, I was in the embrace of those bound to us by ties never to be forgotten or dissolved. You, at least, dear H — , can more readily imagine, than I describe, the character of a first interview with Mr. and Mrs. Richards, and the nature of our feel- ings ; and can enter into the warmth of my thanks- giving, as I beheld them sitting in health and pro- sperity, " beneath their own vine and Jig-tree, with none to make them afraid;" on the very spot, where, four years before, I had parted from them, under circumstances of peculiar danger and sorrow.
My reception by the chiefs, the governor and his wife, the princess, &c., and by numbers of our former parishioners and special friends, was most warm-heated and affecting, many of them bathing my hands with tears as they pressed them to their hearts and lips, while many <f lifted up their voices and wept aloud." As the news of my arrival
156 RECEPTION BY THE CHIEFS AND PEOPLE,
spread rapidly through the district,, " aroha — aroha Mita Tuata I — aroha maitai ! aroha roa Mita Tuata /" — *te Love, love to you, Mr. Stewart! the best love ! the strongest love to you, Mr. Stewart /" echoed on every side where I appeared, whether at a window, at the doors, or in the street. For two days, in whatever direction I went, the same salutations were heard from every plantation and from every grove.
You, my dear H — , were far from being for- gotten, and, with our little household, shared fully in every demonstration of remembrance and affection. " Aroha Mita Tuata-Valiine, aroha Kali, aroha Harieta a me Beke!" <( Love to Mrs. Stewart, love to Charles, love to Harriet, together with Betsey," (Stockton,) with an oc- casional substitution of the native names of the children, Hoapiri and Tamehamaru — invariably followed their greetings to myself. Betsey Stock- ton is held in grateful recollection, both by the chiefs and common people. It was under her im- mediate auspices and instruction, as you know, that the first school among the farmers and their families in Lahaina was established, at the close of the year 1824. Schools of the kind are almost as extensive now as the population, not only of Lahaina, but of Maui itself, with its dependencies, Ranai and Morotai. Several individuals com- posing the original number of her scholars, have become hopefully pious ; and several are among the best qualified and efficient of the native in- structors.
THE PRINCESS HARJETA. 157
Your namesake, the princess, manifests a very tender regard for you. Several times, during the first few days of our visit, she was observed to be abstracted and sad, while tears often started and trembled in her eyes. Mr. Irving, perceiving this on one occasion, inquired ,of Mrs. Richards the cause. She asked the princess, who replied, " It is thoughts of Mrs. Stewart — it is sorrow7, it is pain, to think how coldly I loved her when here, and how little I then regarded her instructions and her ad- vice. I am dead (or overcome) with shame." The change in her personal appearance, since 1825, is even greater than that noticed in her brother, the king. We left her at that time, you recollect, a slender and delicate child of ten ; but now — though little more than fourteen — she is a tall and full grown woman, with a form en bon point. The rapidity of her growth has been such, that she seems scarce accustomed, herself, to the change in her size ; and has lost as much in the gracefulness of movement, for which she was so remarkable, as she has in the elegance of her figure. The uncom- mon brilliance and life of her eye, however, the intelligence, amiability, and playfulness of her ex- pression, and her fine teeth, remain unchanged, and are advantages that render her personally agreeable and interesting.
Our former neighbours at Lahaina, Auwae, the chief of Wairuku, and his wife, now reside in that district, thirty miles beyond the mountains. When at Lahaina some weeks since, on hearing of my ex-
158 THE CHIEF OF WAIRUKU AND HIS WIFE.
pectecl visit,, they made arrangements to be in- formed by express of my arrival at Maui ; and the same evening we landed,, an islander was dis- patched to them with the intelligence. The mes- senger made the journey entirely on foot,, and the chieftains and their train travelled half the distance in the same manner — accomplishing the remainder, on this side of the island, in canoes: still, they were at the mission-house before breakfast, the second day of our visit.
They are both hopefully and warmly pious ; and so deep are their impressions of the ingratitude and sinfulness of having neglected to give their minds and hearts, at an ealier period, to our instructions, and to the power of religion, while we were resi- dents with them, that neither of them could speak on the subject without tears. Each of them has written a long and interesting letter to you, prin- cipally in reference to this point.
The attachment of the natives of every class, in- deed, to the institutions established among them, is now exceedingly great ; and their gratitude and love to those who have been the means of securing such blessings to them, seemingly unbounded. All apparently regard Mr. Richards as their best friend and benefactor ; and himself and Mrs. Richards feel that they, their family, and associates, are dwelling in the bosom of a population, who would shrink from no sacrifice to support, comfort, and defend them. Peace, order, gratitude, and exter- nal good morals alone, now charactize the settle-
GIFTS OF AFFECTION BY THE PEOPLE. 159
ment ; and in every aspect and development of character, the inhabitants of Lahaina are decidedly and interestingly a Christian people.
The same evening- we landed, provisions, in great abundance, were sent as presents to us from the chiefs ; and for three days following, the gateway to the mission house was hourly thronged with proces- sions of families, and schools, and single individuals, men, women and children, old and young, rich and poor, all bearing some gift, within compass of their means, in testimony of their respect and affection. But for the motive and design of this voluntary tri- bute, I should have been amused by the exhibitions in the mission yard. Nothing could be refused ; and i he whole premises looked like a fair — heaps of potatoes, taro, sugar-cane, cabbages, melons, cocoanuts, and bananas, were piled on every side ; while in one place was tied a squealing pig, and in another a bleating goat ; here a dozen of squalling fowls, and there as many quacking ducks ; all joining with sympathetic cadence in the cries of their respective fellows, still constantly arriving.
The scene was novel to the midshipmen; and their gravity entirely overcome by it, as in the gene- ral uproar an»old woman, in her best apparel, a black silk gown, straw bonnet, and printed shawl, made her way to me, in the midst of our circle in the sitting-room, with a petulant rooster under one arm, and a noisy duck under the other, both which she was desirous of transferring at once to my personal good"keeping.
The quantity of vegetables and live stock thus
ICO RESIDENCE OF MR. RICHARDS.
imposed on our acceptance was not only sufficient for the use of the missionary family, including our party during- our stay, but also to half freight the schooner, and supply the ship's company on our return.
Mr. Richards' house, though erected at an ex- pense to the American Board of less than four hun- dred dollars, is a large well-built edifice of stone, two stories high, with a veranda on each floor in front, presenting as comfortable and substantial an aspect as most farm-houses in our country. The situation is convenient, and as pleasant as any in the settlement, with sufficient ground for a garden in the rear, and a small lawn, shaded by a noble tree, in front. Mr. Andrews — who, with Mrs. Andrews and Miss Ogden, is also at this station — occupies at present a thatched house in an adjoin- ing enclosure, but is preparing to build a habitation similar to that of Mr. Richards.
The example of building in stone and mortal- was early imitated by the islanders- ; and besides the mission-house, there are now several dwellings erected along the beach in the same style, and almost equally respectable in their appearance and finish. One, not yet entirely completed,, belongs to. the princess, and another to Maaro, the secretary of Hoapiri, governor of Maui, and an assistant of Mr. Richards in the translation of the scriptures. This last is located on a slight elevation, with a strip of meadow-like ground in front. Stuccoed and whitened, it rises conspicuously and beauti- fully amidst the surrounding verdure ; and my eye
COTTAGE OF MAARO. 161
never fell on it without a recurrence to the passage in the charge of Dr. Worcester, then secretary of the American Board, to the pioneers of the mis- sion, in which, after pointing- out the general objects of the enterprize in which they were about to en gage, he calls upon them not to be satisfied with their labours till the whole land shall be filled, not only with school-houses and churches, but with " pleasant dwellings." Such truly is this of Maaro ; and, in my view, it stands in no doubtful pledge, that ultimately, and even at an early period, the face of every island will be covered with many, equally entitled to the interesting epi- thet.
The entire plan of the house was projected, the building raised and finished, writh the exception of the sashes of the windows, and similar delicate work, by Maaro himself, and. the native assis- tance he could command, and will long remain a monument of his ingenuity and persevering indus- try. Our party visited him several times; and when examining the construction and arrange- ment of his cottage, the furniture and good keep- ing of the whole, connected with the dress and appearance of himself and wife, we could scarce believe ourselves in the dwelling, listening to the conversation, and partaking of the hospitality of those who, within a few years, were living in all the degradation and debauchery of heathenism.
Among the architectural improvements at La- haina, I must not forget the chapel now erecting.
162
NEW CHAPEL.
It also is of stone, ninety-eight feet long- and sixty - two broad, two stories in height, to be furnished with galaries, and calculated to afford seats for three thousand hearers. The walls are finished, and the roof nearly in readiness to be placed upon them. It is pleasantly situated near the finest grove of cocoanut trees in the district ; has been erected exclusively at the expense of the governor and chiefs of Maui, and when completed, will be the most substantial and noble structure in the Polynesian Islands.
We found similar improvements here in the style of living and domestic comforts of the chiefs as at Oahu, and were particularly gratified in a visit to the new residence of the ex-queen Kakauonohi, and her husband Keariiahonui, nearly a mile in- land from the beach. The approach to it is by a carriage road branching from the turnpike, which runs through Lahaina, and extends several miles along the coast on either side of it, a recent work of Gov. Hoapiri, and terminating by a circular sweep in front of the principal building.
Our call was made the second evening of our arrival, in company with the princess and one or two others. Keariiahonui, the finest looking man in the nation, of noble figure, and, but for the loss of his front teeth, knocked out in testimony of grief at the death of Tamehameha the Great in 1819, decidedly handsome in face, received us some dis- tance from the entrance, where Kekauonohi, in a white muslin, with satin sash, and hair put up
COUNTRY HOUSE OF KEKAUONOHI. 163
a la mode Parisienne, in richly carved combs of tortoise-shell, stood ready also to give us a cordial welcome.
The first room we entered was large and airy, and furnished as a parlour, and in addition to chairs, tables, and a side-board, had a mahogany hand- organ at one end. The whole apartment, as well as another adjoining, into which we after- wards passed, was hung with festoons of the aro- matic and sweet-scented maire, intertwined \vith other evergreens, The second room, nearly as spacious as the first, was for sleeping, and con- tained two large field-bedsteads, of a handsome dark cabinet wood, surmounted by canopies hung with curtains of chintz ; a toilet-table covered with white cushions, and hung with draperies of muslin, festooned with ribbon, beneath a glass in a gilt frame, sufficiently large to reflect the whole figure, and an immense lounge, or native bed of mats, spread with silk velvet in place of sheets, with a counterpane or upper covering of satin — a couch as luxurious in material, at least, as many that afford repose to the first nobles in Christendom.
Two well-dressed servants, a male and a female, stood at either end of the side-board, to serve the wine, fruit, cocoanut-water, &c. that were offered us.
In making visits of this kind to the chiefs, in walking over the settlement, in riding on horse- back— horses, with good saddles and bridles being daily furnished us by order of the princess — in ex- cursions on the water in canoes, also at our ser-
164,
RETURN TO OAHU.
vice, in attending1 an examination of a principal school, &c. &c., besides the enjoyment of the society of our friends at the mission-house, the time flew rapidly by, and almost before we were aware of it, the limited period of our absence had elapsed ; and yesterday morning- we were obliged reluctantly to prepare for a return.
The day previous, Governor Adams and Naihe, the hereditary counsellor of the nation, with Kapiolani, his wife, had arrived from Hawaii on their way to Oahu, to visit Captain Finch. They came in the governor's brig the Waverly, accom- panied by a smaller vessel. The governor of Maui, the princess, with Miss Young, a bosom companion, daughter of John Young of Hawaii, the oldest foreign resident at the island, and Xekauonohi, had made arrangements to return with us ; the governor and train in a topsail schooner ; and the princess, with the queen to matronise her, in another ; and after a painful farewell to our friends, and joining the pilot-boat, all our vessels filled away for Oahu in company.
At day-break this morning we were off Diamond Hill. Two whale ships had joined our little squad- ron in the night, and we approached the port in a fleet of seven sail. The brig of Governor Adams arrived first, but we, in time to be taken from the pilot-boat by a cutter sent for us, and to be wel- comed on board the Vincennes before the ship's company had been piped to breakfast.
CAPTAIN FINCH'S VISIT TO THE PRINCESS. 165
LETTER LV.
VISIT OF CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE PRINCESS, AND ENTERTAINMENT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP,
Interview of Captain Finch with the princess and the wind- ward chiefs.— Kapiolani wife of Naihe, the national counseller — Dresses of the chiefs, and entertainment on board ship.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 29th, 1829-
MR. and Mrs. Bishop had arrived at Honolulu a day or two previous to my trip to Maui ; and early yesterday morning, Mr. Bishop,, with Mr. Bingham, came on board the Vincennes, and after making- a call, returned by invitation to dine with Captain Finch.
It had been arranged that the captain should wait on the princess and the chieftains from the windward in the afternoon, at the residence of the king, and at four^ o'clock we all left the ship together for that purpose. We found them as- sembled with most of their compeers, at the place appointed, and the whole company appeared o-reatlv delighted with the conversation of an hour
v"! J
which followed. And with good reason ; for in addition to the pleasantness and urbanity which has marked all his intercourse with them, he took occasion at this time, to give them much very im- portant advice in reference to their rights as a
166 INTERVIEW WITH THE PRINCESS, &C.
government, and the principles by which they should regulate their public measures, and upon which they should found their laws.
This was given principally in answer to ques- tions proposed by one and another., especially by the king, Governor Adams, and Naihe. Among other points, he assured them of a right which most foreigners, by their conduct at least, have endeavoured to persuade them that they do not possess — that of forming laws which shall be bind- ing on all persons at the island, both natives and visitors ; and also of the privilege of presenting to our government any complaint they have to make of the deportment of American citizens which has been displeasing to them.
All light, as to their national and political pri- vileges, has been so carefully concealed from them by most persons who could with propriety have imparted it, that they hung on his remarks with the deepest interest ; and manifested so high a de- gree of gratification and delight, that the interview was prolonged till quite the dusk of the evening.
In the dress, manners, and general appearance of the princess and Kapiolani, we had the most de- cisive evidence, that an elevation of character among the chieftains is by no means confined to the metropolis, but that both Maui and Hawaii can boast examples, as interesting in their exhi- bitions as any to be found at the islands. The princess, in a neat and fashionably made straw coloured satin, with a handsome pelerine of the same, and hair simply arranged with combs, by
KAPJOLANI WIFE OF NAIHE. 167
the propriety and dignity of her manners,, and the animation with which she occasionally expressed herself in reference to the topics in discussion, made a very favourable impression on the captain, as an intelligent and fine young woman ; while Kapiolani, in an Italian silk of a grave colour, with a gauze handkerchief and lace cap, at a sin- gle look was pronounced not only a most pleasing and fine looking woman, but to have all the air and manner of a middle-aged matron at home.
No one seemed more to rejoice in the encou- raging and liberal -conversation of the captain, and in the various manifestations made by him of sin- cere and disinterested friendship, than this indi- vidual. At two or three different times, I saw her dash the tears from her eyes with her hand- kerchief; and, on leaving the house, to proceed to the weekly lecture at the chapel, the tears dropt from her cheeks as she took my arm, and exclaimed, " O, Mr. Stewart, greatly indeed are we favoured in the visit of this captain of a man- of-war, and greatly are we blest in such a com- munication from the high chief of America — great indeed is the joy of my heart, for I have a thought that THE CAPTIVITY OF HAWAII (by which term, as thus used, the whole group is designated) is NIGH TO AN END." An event of which, in the language of the poet I would say,
'' It were a consummation, devoutly to be wished,"
not only by the chieftains and islanders themselves, but by every philanthropist and lover of his race.
168 VISIT OF THE KING AND CHIEFS ON BOARD.
Long, indeed, has Hawaii been in captivity ; in a captivity of paganism, in a captivity of ignorance, superstition, and fear ; in a captivity to the licen- tiousness of too many who have visited her, and in a captivity to their imposition and deceit. But her ofods of wood and of stone are no more.
o
who would have all men every where to worship Him in spirit and in truth, is the only deity now acknowledged and adored ; letters and religion are fast expelling the terrors of darkness and death ; and the unblushing vice which once stalked abroad at noonday, is now obliged, in a measure at least, to hide its head : and let but a few such visits as that of the Vincennes be made to her dis- tant shores, a few such documents as that of Mr. Southard be placed in the hands of her rulers, and a few such friends as Captain Finch impart to them his enlightened views, and impor- tant counsels in reference to their municipal enact- ments, commercial engagements, and political relations, and the captivity of Hawaii will be not only nigh, but fully to an end !
The Vincennes having been entirely overhauled and painted anew, is now in fine order ; and all the chie's expected at Oahu during our visit having arrived, to-day was fixed on to receive the king and chiefs on board, and pay to them, the honours of the ship. The invitation was given by the cap- tain, at the close of his interview with the govern- ment yesterday. The weather, though bright and clear, was very unfavourable this morning, in point of wind. Till near night it blew a gale —
DRESSES OF THE CHIEFS. 169
making any movement, either on land or water, not only very unpleasant,, but almost impracticable. It was too late, however, to make a different ar- rangement; and the boats were despatched to bring the party on board,
At 12 o'clock, their return with the company was reported by a quarter-master ; on which the yards were manned by the crew, in their muster- dress of white frocks and trowsers trimmed with blue, and black hats and shoes. The officers were in full dress ; the guard of marines under arms ; the band on the quarter-deck ; and the Hawaiian flag flying at the foremast-head. The king, prin- cess, regent, and Governor Boki, came in the first boat, and were received with three cheers from the yards, the guard presenting arms, and the band playing " God save the King!" And, as soon as the whole party, including the two con- suls, and Mr. Bingham and Bishop, had been re- ceived and escorted to the poop, a salute of twen- ty-one guns was fired; the highest honour of our service being thus paid to his Hawaiian majesty and court.
The visitors appeared to great advantage. The king, and most of the male chiefs being in full and rich military uniform ; and the females appro- priately and elegantly attired, principally in dres- ses of black, with black hats and ostrich plumes. Since th^ use of European dresses has become habitual, I have not had much opportunity of ob- serving the degree of good judgment shown in the selection of their suits, in reference to time and
VOL. II. I
170 ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD SHIP.
seasons, and thought it probable that some incon- gruity might be perceived : but such was not the case.
The princess has been the subject of much con- versation since the arrival of the Vincennes ; and this being her first appearance before the officers, I was particularly anxious that her costume should be comme il faut ; and had a fear that, notwith- standing the blustering character of the day, and the hour of the entertainment, under an impres- sion that she must be finely attired, she might choose some light evening costume, unsuitable for the occasion , and from that fact, perhaps, was more forcibly struck with her appearance, as she came over the side of the ship, than I should otherwise have been. The best advisers could not have selected from her wardrobe a more becoming and appropriate suit : consisting of an elegant walking-dress of purple silk velvet, made in Lon- don, richly trimmed with satin and velvet of the same colour, and finished at the cuffs and collar with ruffles blonde; with a bonnet of salmon-co- loured silk, white silk stockings, and black satin shoes — the whole constituting a genteel and be- coming dress.
The entertainment, after the salute, consisted of the playing of the band, while refreshments of wine, &c., were served on deck ; of the exercise of the crew and marines, at the guns, as in battle ; boarding and repelling boarders, &c. &c., an ex- hibition which greatly delighted the king and male chiefs. They were then escorted around the dif-
GENERAL EXAMINATION. 171
ferent decks, and shown the whole ship, after which they partook of a handsome collation in the cabin, remaining- on board till near 4 o'clock, much gratified with the attentions shown them, and the kind of entertainment given ; and the captain and officers, not less impressed with the propriety and respectability of their wrhole appearance and deportment.
LETTER LVI.
GENERAL EXAMINATION OF THE SCHOOLS OF OAHU.
Elementary knowledge, and fondness of the natives for Arithmetic. — Appearance of the Scholars in the Chapel. —Aboriginal display of the Princess and Ex-Queen. — Gift of the Princess to Captain Finch. — Imposing Aspect of a Native Procession.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 31st, 1829.
WITHIN a few days of the arrival of our ship at Oahu, a regular quarterly examination of the schools of Honolulu occurred. Captain Finch and a party of officers attended the exhibition in the afternoon ; when the classes most advanced, em- bracing several hundred scholars, presented evi- dences of their attainments in reading and writing, in the elements of arithmetic, geography, and biblical history, in recitations from the Scrip- tures, in catechetical exercises, and in singing, highly interesting and satisfactory. i 2
172 ELEMENTARY KNOWLEDGE AND FONDNESS
Many of the scholars, both male and female, write well ; quite as much so as most persons of common education in our own country ; and all manifested as full an understanding in the acquisi- tions made, as would be found among1 scholars at a similar exhibition at home.
The king and the chiefs, including Governor and Madam Boki, appeared at the head of their re- spective classes, manifesting not only in their ex- ample, but by their whole manner, the laudable ambition of bein^ first in useful knowledge, as they are first in rank. One of the exercises of the king, was that of reading aloud, in the English language, which he did with unexpected facility, and with great distinctness of enunciation and correctness of accent. He understands much that is spoken in this tongue, but usually is unwilling to attempt speaking it himself, seemingly from an apprehension of committing blunders.
One pleasing exhibition on the occasion was that of a basket of needle-work, prepared by a class of young girls under the instruction of Miss Ward. The articles were all beautifully finished — as much so, as if the work of a skilful mantua- maker. Many of the native females have become so expert in dress-making, that the elegance and finish of garments made by them have greatly sur- prised us ; ar.d the demand for their services is such, that they obtain an abundant support by the exerciso of the art.
While at Lahiana, I also had an opportunity of judging of the advancement made by the chiefs and
OF THE NATIVES FOR ARITHMETIC. 173
others there, in exhibitions of a similar kind, by scholars under the superintendence of Mr. Andrews and Miss Ogden. The princess and her class are in advance of all others at that station, as her brother and his immediate associates are at this place. Arithmetic proves to be a very favourite study with the islanders, and they take great de- light in the exercise of mind required in it. With the princess, I am told, this is particularly the case ; and a chief amusement of herself and com- panions, is in exercises in the elementary rules of the art, and in simple and compound reduction — the limits of the progress yet made, I believe, by any of the nation.
Notwithstanding- the attendance of Captain Finch and his officers at the quarterly exhibition of this kind, Kaahumanu felt desirous of presenting to them a more imposing spectacle, in a general exa- mination of the schools of the whole island ; and early information of the design was circulated through the various districts of Oahu, and other arrangements made for its execution.
It occurred yesterday, and took place in the chapel — a building one hundred and ninety-eight feet in length, by seventy-eight in breadth. The scholars included persons of every age, and the number was very great, amounting to many thou- sands— even thousands more than could be re- ceived in the chapel at the same time ; and the exa- mination took place by districts.
The morning was appropriated to a review, hi ,this manner, of the schools most recently esta-
174 APPEARANCE OF THE
blished in distant parts of the island, and to those whose proficiency extended only to reading: and the chapel was two or three times successively filled with these, arranged by schools, in regular lines along its matted floor. The people were almost exclusively dressed in native cloth, but all in new garments : many of which, consisting of immense folds arranged around the figure with taste and gracefulness, were of great beauty. In general, each school was in uniform : some in mantles and kiheis of black, some of yellow, some of pink, some of white, some striped, some spot- ted, some plain, meeting the eye, as seen in a single mass spread over so extensive an area, in lively and agreeable effect.
I never, on any occasion of festivity and amuse- ment, during my residence at the islands, in which a multitude of the people have been brought toge- ther, saw evidences of greater interest and pleasure in the passing scenes, whether of the song or of the dance, or of a trial of skill in their various sports and games, than were now manifested; brightness and smiles were on every face ; and all seemed desirous of giving testimony to the im- portance and value placed by them, on the attain- ments they are making, and of the happiness they find in the new order of things. The sight, with associations unavoidably arising from it in my mind, was at once delightful and affecting.
The afternoon, as in the previous instance, had been appropriated, in the arrangements for the day, to the schools and classes in advance of the
SCHOLARS IN THE CHAPEL. 175
general population ; and as large a number of the officers as could be spared from duty, left the ship with Captain Finch at four o'clock, to pro- ceed to the chapel. The chiefs and a large num- ber of foreigners, visitors, and residents, including the consuls, who had learned that there was to be more than ordinary display, were already assem- bled, and waiting our arrival.
For the gratification of the gentlemen of the Vincennes, this opportunity was taken of exhibiting so much of their former style of dress, &c. as would be consistent with modesty of person and propriety of deportment. The schools occupied about two-thirds of the chapel ; the remaining part had been appropriated to the accommodation of the female chiefs, and kept in reserve for them, till, with all the ancient paraphernalia of chieftainship, they had been borne in procession from their re- spective residences to the chapel. The display made by these, as seen from the seats to which we were conducted, was beautiful and imposing.
The princess occupied the centre of the space reserved. She was seated on the farther end from us on a portable throne, consisting of a light plat- form twenty feet in length and six in breadth, at an elevation of four feet. This was covered with many thicknesses of the finest and most beautifully coloured native cloth, hanging in thick and graceful drapery to the floor. Behind her, and at regular intervals along the sides, the finest looking of the inferior male chieftains were stationed, in splendid cloaks of yellow and scarlet feathers, each sup-
176 ABORIGINAL DISPLAY OF THE
porting a kahile, or feathered staff of state, thirty feet in height ; the staffs or handles,, two-thirds of the whole length, being composed of highly polished alternate rings of tortoise-shell and ivory, and the upper ends of feathers, in compact cylinders, nearly two feet in diameter ; some crimson, some black, some green, and others, again, yellow, imparting a greater air of dignity and power than can well be imagined by those, who have never seen them poised over the heads of the nobles whose rank they proclaim, or waving with stateliness in the breeze at a proces- sion.
That there might be as little departure as possi- ble from the primitive dress, without a sacrifice of modesty, the princess wore only a loose slip of black satin, made close in the neck, with long sleeves ; over which, from the wraist down, appeared, as she was seated in the Turkish attitude, the most beau- tifully wrought and splendid article of feathers ever made at the islands — a pau or native petti- coat of yellow, edged with alternate points of black and scarlet, and lined with crimson satin — covering, not only the lower part of her person, but spreading widely in rich careless folds over the whole of the platform. A beautiful feather cape, in a pattern of black and crimson on a yellow ground, hung from her shoulders ; around her neck were several wreaths, and upon her head a triple coronet of yellow and crimson of the same material. At a short distance on her left, in a large chair of state, festooned with capes and
PRINCESS AND EX-gUEEN. 17;7
wreaths of feathers, and elevated three feet from the floor, was Kinau, in the same costume as the -princess, except that her pau consisted of an im- mense quantity of gay coloured tapa ; and having smaller kahiles, borne by petty chiefs. On the left of her again was a throne, similar to that of the princess, but much smaller, surrounded by feather bearers, on which were seated the son and daughter of Kekuanao, in expensive European dresses. On .the right of the princess, and corresponding- in every respect with Kinau, were Kekaunohi, Madam Boki, and Kekauruohe, with their feather bearers, the whole forming a semicircle of aboriginal splen- dour, immediately opposite our seats, at a distance of fifteen or twenty feet. Kaahumanu and Kapi- olani, in their ordinary dresses, in European style, were seen indistinctly through the crowd of attend- ants behind the chairs of state, bearing kahiles, as in the train of the princess. The grouping of the whole, consisting of some forty individuals, was very impressive ; and, by its novelty as well as richness, excited great admiration.
To be placed so conspicuously before us, as a spectacle to be gazed at, rather than as presiding over the examination, was an awkward situation for Harieta, as now usually called ; but she acquitted herself with great propriety, and was much compli- mented, especially for the handsome manner in which an expression of politeness to Captain Finch — unexpected, and, I should judge, unthought-of even by herself, till the moment, was made imme- diately after our entrance. The seat to which he i 3
178 GIFT OF THE PRINCESS
was conducted was directly in front of her's, though at a distance of some thirty feet. As soon as he recognized her in her new attire,, he rose and made her a very marked bow: on returning which,, she immediately dismantled herself of the feather cape upon her shoulders, and despatched a young chief with it as a present to him. The compliment was so handsome and so prompt,, that the captain placed it at once upon his own shoulders, and wore it during the exhibition, in evidence of the kindness with which it had been received.
The examination consisted, like all others of a similar kind, of specimens in reading and writing, exercises in arithmetic, &c. &c., concluding, at the end of an hour or more, with a hymn and short prayer. The greater portion of the specimens of writing arid of composition, among those most ad- vanced, were letters addressed to myself, in ex- pression of the happiness occasioned by my visit, and of the views of the different writers upon the subjects of learning and religion. Some hundred of these, I should think, were committed to me by the writers, after being subjected to the inspection of the various foreigners present. Among these were some, who take little interest in the advances of every kind making by the people, and who affect to believe, and who say, that no good has ever been accomplished by the mission, and that the people have no capacity for knowledge. To such, the gratification exhibited by our party at the at- tainments manifest, and the encomiums passed by them, both on the teachers and the pupils, were
TO CAPTAIN FINCH. 179
any thing but agreeable : a fact which they could not disguise. The attention of a principal officer was attracted by the readiness, and apparent un- derstanding, with which a large class repeated what he was told was the multiplication table ; and expressed his surprise and pleasure to one of these gentlemen seated beside him ; to which he replied, with a look expressive of great contempt — " All parrot-like, Sir, all parrot-like ; they know nothing about what they are saying /" Almost imme- diately after, a young man brought a slate with a large and complex sum in addition upon it, pre- senting it to the officer to know whether it was correct. It was found to be perfectly so : and
turning to Mr. , he said with a laugh — <( A
parrot possibly might learn to repeat the multipli- cation table, Mr. — , but it would require a wise bird to add such a series of columns together, without a mistake !"
Understanding that the females would leave the chapel in procession, Captain Finch and myself walked out before them, and took a stand in the upper veranda of the palace built by Karaimoku, commanding a fine view of the whole street from the chapel to the house, where they were to be set down. The children of Kekuanaoa came first ; but, unaccustomed to this ancient mode of convey- ance, the moment their couch of state became ele- vated on the shoulders of its bearers, and moved forward with its compliment of feathered staffs and train, the young nobles began screaming so loudly, that their attendants were obliged to receive them
180 IMPOSING ASPECT OF NATIVE PROCESSION.
to their arms from their lofty seats, and allow the pageant to pass on unoccupied. Next came the queens ; and last,, the princess, preceded by the king and suite on foot, and escorted by a file of the royal guards on either side, to keep open a pas- sage sufficiently wide for her throne and its bear- ers, amidst the immense throng of gaily dressed thousands around.
The scene thus presented in a single coup- d' ceil was highly exciting. This bearing of some favou- rite of a nation upon the heads of the people has always been associated in my mind with a state of high- wrought enthusiasm — an enthusiasm springing from a just admiration and a sincere love for the object calling it into action, and the sympathetic influence of which seizes irresistibly on the heart, even of an uninterested spectator. I could not free myself from an influence of the kind on this occasion — nor was it necessary • for she who was thus borne aloft, surrounded by all the glory of her rank and the gaze of ten thousand eyes, wras the joy of the people and the delight of the whole nation. And while I gazed in admiration on the animated and youthful favourite passing trium- phantly along, beneath a canopy of magnificent kahiles nodding with grace and stateliness in the breeze, as cheer after cheer from the wide-spread and admiring multitude greeted her on her way, — I thought, and remarked, that the pageant, though destitute of the gilding of equipage and caparison of horse found in other countries, equalled, if it did not surpass, in its effect upon the eye and upon
NATIVES ASSEMBLING FOR WORSHIP. 181
the heart, the most gorgeous and princely train I ever witnessed.
At the close of the quarterly examination, a fortnight ago, Mrs. Bingham entertained Captain Finch and officers, with the king, and regent, and members of the mission at tea ; and we at this time met the same company, with the addition of a greater number of the chiefs, at the cottage of Mrs. Ruggles and Mrs. Clark. On the former occasion, the captain, with the king on one side and the regent on the other, through the interpre- tation of Mr. Bingham, had new evidences afforded him of their intelligence and affability ; and on the present, a demonstration was given that a whole circle of their compeers are no strangers to the etiquette of a tea-drinking.
LETTER LVII.
AN EVENING MEETING AND SABBATH SCENES.
Natives assembling- for worship. — An Albino and a blind man. — Evidences of piety among tbe islanders.— Public professions and baptism, of infants. — Administration of the Sacrament.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, November 2, 1829.
SOME of the incidents of the last forty-eight hours have been among the most interesting, dear H , that I have ever witnessed here.
182 AN ALBINO AND A BLIND MAN.
On Saturday evening1 I attended a meeting1 for religious conversation and prayer. It was held in a large school-house near the residences of the principal chiefs, and was composed of persons of every rank and condition among1 the people. There were circumstances in the mere approach to the spot sufficient to impart seriousness and solemnity to the mind ever accustomed to higher thoughts than those of which the things of this world are wof thy. Numbers from various quarters, wrapped in their large mantles, were still silently and slowly assembling — seemingly with hearts prepared, by the gray of the evening and musings on the object bringing them together, for meditations of eternity and the sincere worship of their God.
No light prattle or giddy laugh, no unbecoming levity in look or manner, betrayed the careless mind, or a spirit little concerned in the services before it; but all appeared to be cherishing thoughts and affections suited to a place of serious- ness and prayer.
On entering the lowly door and humble but spacious apartment, the light of a few tin lamps, at long intervals, against the posts supporting the roof, fell dimly on the countenances and figures of at least a thousand of these sable tribes, all waiting in profound silence the arrival of a teacher in the things of -eternity. We took our seats at a small table near a door, in the midst of them, and waited ourselves till those yet entering should find places. Among the number of these was an Albino, though a pure native, and another a blind man, of fine
EVIDENCES OF PIETY. 183
countenance and noble figure, with deep serious- ness marked on his features, as, by the guidance of a friend whose hand he held, he was led near the table, and became seated on the mats at our feet.
There was in this incident that which at once brought into exercise those better feelings, we all delight to exercise at such hours and in such a place ; and my thoughts were as I gazed with deep interest on this afflicted islander — seeking in the darkness of the night by the kindness of another that light which, though invisible to the natural eye, is emphatically the " light of the world" and the " light of life" — " happy, happy art thou, though blind, if seeking light from the great Physician ! — happy, though afflicted, if, conscious of a dark- ness of soul as well as of body, thy earnest cry is, ' Jesus, thou son of David, have mercy on me!'"
After a hymn and prayer, and a few remarks suited to the occasion, any one who felt desirous of asking a question, or of expressing a sentiment upon the subjects for which the meeting was insti- tuted, was requested to speak ; upon which much interesting conversation between one and another, and Mr. Bingham, took place. The remarks, and the feelings of many thus unfolded, were deeply touching, and fully demonstrated the effi- cacy of the Gospel, in enlightening the mind and melting the heart of man in his most uncultivated state.
The sceptic may discredit, and the cold moralist
184 EVIDENCES OF PIETY
doubt, but he who knows from his own experience, that there is a power in the truth of God which is above the power of man, and who has felt its in- fluence pervading his own soul, and bringing him sweetly into captivity to the Gospel, knows that what the wisdom of the wise can never in itself attain, the most ignorant and the most obscure, by submitting unreservedly to the simple truths of the Most High, and to the guidance of his Holy Spirit, are sure to win.
Yesterday morning we had our usual sabbath service on board ship, and did not attend at the mission chapel, After dinner, however, Mr. Strib- ling and myself went on shore for the purpose of joining in the native worship at four o'clock. We had been apprized of the intended administration of the Lord's Supper at that time, and anticipated, with no little satisfaction, the privilege of partaking of this sacred ordinance in so remote a part of the world, in the bosom of a church but lately gathered from heathenism.
The chapel, the dimensions of which I recollect already to have stated, was erected at the expense of the chiefs within the last six months. It is in the native style, beautifully thatched, and fur- nished with several lofty folding doors, and large windows of glass at the sides and ends. The pulpit is in the middle of one side, and is a neat piece of workmanship, with cushions and hangings of crim- son damask. A square of considerable dimensions in front of this is lined with sofas, chairs, and settees, for the accommodation of the chiefs, mis-
AMONG THE ISLANDERS. 185
sion family, and a choir of singers, consisting of twenty or .thirty well-dressed young persons of both sexes, with the king at their head.
Many of the more respectable of the congrega- tion besides the aristocracy, provide themselves with chairs and other seats in various parts of the house ; but the mass of the audience sit closely together upon the matted floor only. The neat- ness and cleanliness of dress, the respectability, order, and seriousness of the thousands constituting the customary assemblage on the sabbath, are most impressive, and have excited the admiration of all who have witnessed it.
On entering, we found the immense area of the building, as usual, greatly crowded ; and the ser- vices just commencing by a hymn and a prayer. It is not customary to have a sermon on these occa- sions ; and at the conclusion of another hymn, after the prayer, the names of seven individuals were announced as those now to be received into the church. They had been in a state of probation for some months, and were called on to present themselves publicly, to profess their belief in the articles of the Christian faith, and to take upon them the vows of the church covenant. This they did, standing in front of the pulpit and commu- nion table, surrounded by the members of the church, occupying two rows of seats on the square enclosing it.
Five were men and two women, from twenty to forty-five years of age, all dressed in good suits of European clothes, and manifesting in their whole
186 PUBLIC PROFESSIONS AND
aspect a respectability and a degree of solemnity, and seeming1 genuine feeling1 so striking, as irre- sistibly to impart corresponding emotions to the bosom of the spectator. The dresses of the females were becoming and appropriate, plain, neat, and modest ; especially that of the younger of the two, whose unornamented gown of snow-white cambric, with turban to match, well became the composed seriousness of a strikingly mild and amiable coun- tenance. Her husband, one of the young men making this profession, in a frockcoat of blue cloth with white cravat, vest and pantaloons, made an equally interesting appearance.
After assenting to the articles of faith, and taking on them the obligations contained in the church covenant, they were all baptized ; and then, each for himself, both male and female, subscribed his name to the roll of the church, subjoined to the preceding documents, and all were proclaimed members of the church, entitled to all the privileges of the relation, and commended to the special love and care of their fellows of the household faith.
This ceremony was succeeded by the presenta- tion for baptism of several infants, neatly dressed like children with us at home. One of the most so was that of the individuals whose dresses I have mentioned; and as I looked with deep feelings on the little family group they formed before the baptismal font, I could but inwardly exclaim, in view of their past condition, (( happy parents, thus to have learned and to have secured blessings of
BAPTISM OF INFANTS. 187
which a long- line of progenitors never conceived ! Happy child! thus to have been born in a day when no murderous hand will add you to the fear- ful number whose earliest breathings have been sternly stifled in death,, but when with humble prayer you are received from the arms of parental love into the bosom of the church, and made one of the flock, whose leader and wrhose defender is the good shepherd, who careth for his sheep, and who carries the lambs in his bosom!" After this four men presented themselves as candidates to be received after a suitable period of probation. One of them was the blind man whose appearance had interested me the evening before, and another the friend, now as then, guiding his darkened way through the crowded mass around.
A general invitation was then given to all pro- fessors of religion among the strangers present, of whom there were several, to partake in the breaking of bread and tae drinking of wine, in the name of Him who said, ct This do in remembrance of me" with the request that any such would make them- selves known by rising. Mr. Stribling and myself were the only persons thus answering : on which we were joined in our standing position by the whole church ; and by singing a translation, in the native language, of the appropriate and affecting hymn,
" 'Twas on that dark and doleful night," &c.
commenced the services immediately connected with the ordinance.
188 ADMINISTRATION OF
The princess was seated alone on a sofa of crim- son silk damask in front of the pulpit. On enter- ing^ Mr. Stribling arid myself had taken single chairs on one side of the area ; but several of our officers and other foreigners coming in, to make room for them, we took places beside her ; and
thus with one who we, dear H , have long
regarded with the interest of an adopted child, on my right, and a friend who I have learned sincerely to love on my left, I joined with deep feeling in the prayer and in the praise of the little flock here gathered from the gentiles, and partook of the symbols of the ft bread of LIFE," and of tf the water of SALVATION," of which, " if a man eat, he shall live for ever" and {f if he drink, he shall never thirst"
It was an occasion which necessarily called from the pious mind the most devout thanksgiving unto God for the rich displays of his grace here made, while it elicited the most ardent prayer that thus He " who is mighty to save," would go " forth conquering and to conquer /" The most unre- flecting and incredulous mind could not have looked upon the scene without admiration at the achievements of decorum and seeming piety which, at least, it must be acknowledged, have been ac- complished. The number of communicants was near two hundred, all natives with the exception of Mr. Stribling and myself, and the mission family; presenting in their deportment and whole appearance, as great a degree of intelligence, de- votion, and entire respectability, as any ordinary
THE SACRAME-NT. 189
church in our country : the chiefs, by the superio- rity of their air and greater richness of attire, cor- responding well to the higher classes in our own communities ; and the common people differing scarce in any respect, but in their colour, from those of the same standing at home.
The happiness to me, of thus surrounding the table of our common Lord with most of my old associates and missionary friends, and with so many of the chiefs and people whose spiritual wel- fare has long been a topic of the deepest interest and prayer, was exceedingly great, and filled my heart with gratitude and praise.
The princesss appeared to remarkable advantage. I could not avoid noticing with satisfaction the singular propriety of her dress — a white Italian crape, finished with simple bindings of white satin, worn over an underdress of white, with a becom- ing bonnet of light silk and French scarf of the same, of modest colour. She was not only serious, but affected to tears by the ordinance ; and while I could but believe her a truly sincere and firm professor, my prayer was that she might be " steadfast, immovable, and always abounding in the work of the Lord."
190 DEFAMATION OF
LETTER LVIII.
DETRACTION AND CALUMNY OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
Defamation of the Princess.— Report of it to her guardians. — Council, and letter of the chiefs. — Answer of Captain
Finch Advice of foreigners on the subject of marriage.
— Source of the detraction of voyagers. — False represen- tations of residents. — Statements of Captains Beechey and Kotzebue. — Mr. Bing-ham and his associates. — Mental and moral worth.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, November 3d, 1829.
A SHORT time after the arrival of our ship at Honolulu, Captain Finch and myself were invited to dinner by an American resident of respecta- bility.
While at table, the character of the young king became a subject of conversation ; and the Cap- tain was led to inquire whether any person had yet been spoken of as a suitable companion for him as future queen of the islands. Our host re- plied, that the king and his sister, the princess, were mutually and strongly attached, and that they themselves and all the chiefs wished a marriage to take place between them, according to former usages in the royal family ; but were prevented by the missionaries, adding that the ceremony, how- ever, might as well be performed, for it was well
THE PRINCESS. 191
known that they were already living in a state of licentiousness and incest !
As you may readily imagine, the boldness of this assertion, which I was persuaded was utterly false, caused me to drop my knife and fork, with a sur- prise bordering on indignation, and to demand, in a manner sufficiently indicative of the feeling
which had flashed through me, whether Mr.
believed the assertion to be true? To which he replied, " most assuredly ., nothing is moren totious — every body knows it!" while two other Americans at the table corroborated the charge with the strongest asseverations.
These gentlemen were perfectly aware of the attitude in which I stand to the princess. They knew that from the time of my first arrival as a missionary, in 1823, she — then a child eight years old — had been a resident at the station that I oc- cupied at Maui ; had ever been a favourite pupil ; and on the death of a converted and pious mother, the late queen Keopulani, had been committed by her to the special guardianship and watchful care of the Rev. Mr. Richards, my colleague, and my- self. They knew that from that period I had re- garded her with peculiar attachment ; had rejoiced in her acquirements ; in the early development of more than ordinary Christian principle and feeling, and in the active and exemplary life of piety which she had led ; and that a new bond of interest existed, in an evidence of affection given by her, on the necessary removal of myself and family from the island, by the assumption, as a
192 REPORT OF IT
favourite and baptismal appellation, of the name of one justly dear above others to me. They knew also that she has been for three years a member in full communion of the church ; stands conspi- cuous as a Christian, not only in her own nation, but by report in various parts of the world ; and that by impugning her character, they were assail- ing the veracity and honour of the whole mission, and casting reproach on all the moral achieve- ments it is reported to have attained.
Courtesy, therefore, to me as a guest, and a re- gard for my feelings in view of my relation to the princess, and the strong sympathy which I might be known still to feel in all that affects my former
associates, should have deterred Mr. and his
friends, for the time at least, from such unquali- fied defamation, whether unfounded or not ; and it could not have been expected by them, that after hearing it, I should not take measures to ascertain its truth and origin.
The object must have been to force the belief on the mind of Captain Finch, by the confidence and publicity of the assertion, that it must be true. How far this was successfully accomplished the sequel will show.
On taking leave of the company, I requested Captain Finch to charge his mind with the re- marks made, and the positiveness of the accom- panying manner, that when he should have an opportunity of ascertaining the innocence of the princess, he might be persuaded, from his own observation, of the recklessness with which one,
TO HER GUARDIANS. 193
under the influence of strong prejudice and ill- will, could thus scatter " arrows, firebrands, and death!'' and then say, " am I not in sport?"
To make the assurance of my own mind if doubly sure," I early ascertained, to my entire satisfac- tion, that the crimination was as false in fact as it was heinous in its nature.
From my messmates and other officers of the Vincennes, I early learned that the same tale had been repeated by different persons to them ; and shortly after reaching Maui, one of my com- panions incidentally mentioned the scandal to Mr. Richards, as a matter of common report at Oahu. He immediately inquired of me whether I had heard any thing of the kind; and on relat- ing to him the reiterated and positive avowal of
Mr. and his companions, determined, as
pastor of the particular church of which the prin- cess is a member, to demand of Hoapiri, governor of Maui, and his wife, the guardians and adopted parents of Harieta, an investigation of the case. The consequence was, an immediate resolution on the part of the governor and princess to pro- ceed to Oahu to meet the allegation, and demand, in the name of the government, from the persons implicated, proof or a recantation of the charge.
The princess was so much affected by the ca- lumny as to be unable to sleep or eat, and re- mained with the governor and his wife during the whole of the night on which she first heard of it, bathed in tears, and it was not without much
VOL. II. K
194 COUNCIL AND LETTER
urging by the mission family and myself, and the reiterated assurance that all the gentlemen with me believed her perfectly innocent, that she could be induced to meet them in the free and cheerful manner she had previous to this dis- closure
All who heard of it were exceedingly indig- nant; and the first shade of sadness I had seen pass over the brow of Kaahumanu, after the arrival of the Vincennes, was on the morning of our return from Maui, after she had been in- formed of it. As I approached her residence, to exchange with her an " aloha" I perceived her seated in dejection on one side, of the apartment, while several of her compeers were partaking of a tempting breakfast just by. On asking her why she did not eat with the rest, she replied, " aohe ono ke ai /" " there is no sweetness to the food!"" And on inquiring why, and whether she was ill ? was answered that her " heart wav broken by the wickedness of the foreigners, and the false- hood of their words /"
A general council was early assembled for the consideration of this subject. Governor Boki
had previously called on Mr. , to know why
he had made such a statement. The only satis- faction he could obtain was, that Mr. did not
intend to convey the impression that he himself believed the charge true, but only that it was said by others to be so, and was generally believed to be a fact. He could, however, furnish no par-
OF THE CHIEFS. 195
ticular authority ; and the following correspon- dence between the Chiefs and Captain Finch has just taken place.
The document from the Chiefs was placed in the hands of Captain Finch by the queen regent, Kaahumanu, in presence of the signers in open council yesterday :
LETTER OF THE CHIEFS.
Honoluhu, Oahti, October 30, 1829. Listen to us, Captain Finch. Great is our affection for you, united with pleasure, admira- tion, and confidence, for the love which y u have shown us. On account of your affection for us, we rejoice in this opportunity to tell our thoughts.
This is our sentiment concerning Mr.
dwelling in our islands, Mr. and .
Many evil deeds have been committed by our people towards them, and many also have been their evil doings towards us ; on account of their prolonging their residence on these islands of Hawaii, we are exceedingly ensnared and bur- dened by them. Formerly our difficulties were small, but latterly they are very great, on account of the unprovoked injuries that have been heaped upon us, by the above mentioned foreigners. Many have been the smaller injuries which we have received from them ; and which are too many to number. We will only specify two of greater importance.
The first is concerning our man who shot a cow.
The two united, seized upon the man, bound
K 2
196 LETTER OF THE CHIEFS.
him with a rope, and dragged him along behind their horses, as a horse drags along a cart. Thus they dragged him for the distance of two miles, until he barely escaped with his life.
The second charge is concerning the false and evil report of these persons concerning the prin- cess Harieta. We deny the allegation made by them — it is not true. On account of the charge brought by them against her, our hearts are broken by the scandal, and we can bear it no lon- ger. Our feelings, however, are relieved by the letter of the chief of America, brought by you, by which we are assured of his affection for us. We have also seen your letter, which bears the same likeness with that of your chief.
Because of the similarity of the sentiments of yourself and your chief, we beseech you, if it is in your power, to bring Mr. and Mr. to ac- count for the charge which they two have falsely alleged against the princess. Grant, sir, our re- quest, that you bring them to a full account here, or be so kind as to tell us distinctly the proper course that we are to take.
This we humbly beg of you, with great affection which shall be perpetual.
KAUIKEAUOLI, King.
BOKI, Governor of Oahu.
ADAMS, Governor of Hawaii.
HOAPIRI, Governor of Mnui.
NAIHE, Counsellor of State.
HARIETA NAHIENAENA, Princess.
ELIZABETH KAAHUMANU, Regent.
ANSWER OF CAPTAIN FINCH. 197
ANSWER.
TO THE KING KAU1KEAOULI, AND THE CHIEFS OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, November 3d, 1829.
I reply to your letter, and repeat to you, that I entertain great friendship for you and your people; as also do the president and government of the United States.
It is painful to me to learn, that you feel you have cause to be offended with my countrymen,
Messrs. and . They will, or can, I
hope, remove it. I have told them of your griev- ances.
When you, and those of my countrymen who visit or live in your islands, become better ac- quainted, then all grounds of complaint may cease on both sides. As they and you are yet in some degree mutual strangers, it is most judicious to exercise forbearance towards each other.
I have not power to give you such satisfaction as you may think is deserved ; but I will receive, and deliver to the president, such demands or repre- sentations as you may choose to make, and they will be effectually attended to.
As you are at a loss to know how you are to act towards strangers who reside among you, but do not behave as you may think they ought, I recom- mend to you to propose such questions to my go- vernment. It will explain the extent of its pro- tection to citizens who visit, or temporarily so-
198 ADVICE OF FOREIGNERS
journ among you; also the restraints and cor- rections it can apply to offences committed against you; and will further inform you of the degree of power or right over them, which it is willing to concede to you.
Whatever ill impressions may have been pro- duced by what Mr. and Mr. may have
said against the princess Harieta, are removed by your denial and assurances ; their remarks pro- bably were not conceived in malice, and may have been derived from your own people. The know- ledge that the conversation has given you so much pain, will most probably render them more cautious. When your government is better es- tablished, and your people more informed, your characters will be better protected from aspersion.
These are my views and my opinions ; you can however have reference, as I before stated, through me to the president, who will confirm them, or else distinctly differ from me ; so that your objects will be attained.
I have thus, conclusively, noticed all the points of your letter upon which I can with propriety touch : and have only to add the fervent wish, that all difficulties, and every sense or feeling of displeasure, may for the present terminate here.
May each day of your existence add to the present evidences of your general prosperity and individual happiness.
W. C. B. FINCH.
As to the assertion, that the king, princess, and chiefs, are all desirous of a marriage between the
ON THE SUBJECT OF MARRIAGE. 199
brother and sister, it is as entirely unfounded as the accompanying calumny. Had not Christia- nity been introduced and established, these two would doubtless have been united before the pre- sent time; but it is now six years since the subject was voluntarily dismissed from the conversation and councils of the chiefs, as one that was for ever put at rest by the precepts of the faith they had espoused. In speaking upon this point with the princess, she told me that such a thing had never been intimated to her by any one of the chiefs, except by Boki, when intoxicated, a few weeks since. Entering the house at which she was, he told her she must marry her brother immediately ; on which, replying that he spoke like a crazy man, from much drink, she left the room. But it was
added by her, that Mr. , an American, and
Mr. , a British resident, had each, at two
different times, advised and importuned her to marry her brother, saying, that such alliances were frequent, both in America and England; and that, not long since, a British king had mar- ried his sister ! Mr. Jones, the American consul, however, she says, told her, that it was not true, that such a marriage was never heard of in a Christian country; and that to marry her brother would be a lasting disgrace in the eyes of all civi^ lized nations.
I have not entered into this detail and traced the calumy to its result, from any intrinsic im- portance in the circumstance itself, nor with the intention, on the one hand, of bringing reproach
200 SOURCE OF THE
on the individuals giving rise to it, or on the other, of presenting myself in pledge for the continued integrity and future fair fame of the person to whom it principally relates.
The princess, for so youthful a professor of re- ligion, is placed in circumstances highly inauspi- cious to the continuance of that brightness and spirituality of Christian character which she has, thus far, so clearly exhibited, if not hazardous even to the purity essential to the existence of true piety.
The nation of which she is so conspicuous a chieftain, however humble in comparison with others, and mean in the pretensions of its royalty to rank and splendour, still has " its world" to ensnare the youthful mind, and its pleasures, and its follies, to tempt the inexperienced heart. Of that world, too, she is the idol : its adulations in every form, are constantly poured around her; and unhappily, in the number of those whose flat- tery springs only from admiration and sincere attachment, there are others who court but to de- ceive, and who adulate but to destroy. And, how- ever sincerely such an event is to be deprecated, still it is not impossible, to say the least, that she may yet live more deeply to dishonour, even than she has thus far adorned the cause so early espoused by her. But of such an event, it is most devoutly to be said, " sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof;" and I cannot but protest against the unrnanliness and cruelty of an attempt, thus beforehand to blast the fair fame of a reputation hitherto unsullied.
DETRACTION OF VOYAGERS. 201
i
The leading motive to the disclosure has been to unfold, by the opportunity which it presents, the true fountain of bitterness from which streams of prejudice and misrepresentation, destructive not only to the best interests of this nation, but of the whole heathen world, have been made so widely and so broadly to flow.
It is in cases like the preceding, and on such
authority as Mr. and his friends, that the
detractions of the mission are founded, which have been furnished to the world by Captain Beechey, of H. B. M. ship Blossom ; by the " Redacteur" of " The Voyage of the Blonde ;" and by M. Von Kotzebue, of the Russian Imperial Navy, in his " New Voyage round the World." And I venture to assert, that there is not a syllable derogatory to the honour and usefulness of the missionaries, contained in their united accounts, which, on investigation, could not be traced to a similar " deceitful and deceiving ' source.
The station of post- captain in the royal and imperial navies of their sovereigns, is in itself an ^Egis to the honour of Beechey and Von Kotzebue, and I am far from believing, that the statements they have given are the fabrications of their own minds. Unhappily, there is too little necessity for any visitor at the islands thus to task his inventive powers: an abundance of matter of this descrip- tion, already manufactured, is there kept in con- stant store, with tongues ready to retail it ; and I doubt not those gentlemen can give the names
K3
202 FALSE REPHF.SENTATIONS
of the individuals from whom they received all they have rehearsed.
I impeach not their veracity. But unfortu- nately for them, the attitude in which they have placed themselves, by their publications, is such, that charity herself cannot throw round them a shield, which, in addition to a defence of their honour as gentlemen, will screen1 their reputation as trustworthy reporters to the world, of the physiology, condition, and prospects of the people they have visited in traversing the globe. A de- fence of their candour can only be sustained by the sacrifice of the acuteness of their observation, and the faithfulness of their research.
If their accounts of the Sandwich Islands were written in full probity of heart, they must plead guilty to the charge of an error in judgment, and of having become dupes to the arts and misre- presentations of others, in utter neglect of the facilities for personal observation by which they were surrounded. To every intelligent visitor at the same place it must be self evident, that instead of filling their note-books with facts passing before them, they caught with eagerness, from strongly prejudiced and ill-disposed men, recitals and hear- says, in direct opposition to them.
It is not with unguarded pen that I advance this opinion. I have myself had a demonstration of the fact, and can present evidence, both incidental and direct, in support of it, furnished by those who could have no motive to deceive.
OF RESIDENTS. 203
A short time previous to my departure from the islands in 1825, I called one morning at the re- sidence of an American merchant, who had the hour before returned to Honolulu from a visit of a day or two, at a place on the western side of Oahu, twenty-five or thirty miles distant. In the course of the conversation which ensued, he ex- pressed great anxiety for the people inhabiting the sections of country through which he had passed, stating, equally to my surprise and regret, that they must in a very short time be in a state of perfect famine, from having been obliged by the chiefs to go into the mountains to cut timber for a new chapel, lately erected at Honolulu,, to the neglect of their plantations, till all the growth on them had perished from want of irrigation and other attention : adding, that from this cause, the whole region presented a most melancholy spec- tacle.
I had no reason to doubt the truth of the report. I knew nothing myself of that part of the island, and was aware that the inhabitants had recently been occupied in procuring timber for the chapel; having myself, on one morning within a few weeks preceding, counted 2,200 men bearing it into town, in one uninterrupted procession, while some 800 or 1,000 others followed during the day. But their appearance was not that of an oppressed and famishing people ; for they came evidently in high spirits and joy, with hands and hearts ready to their work, which would scarce have been the case if, on their way, they had beheld their plan-
204 STATEMENTS OF
tations perishing, and their crops ruined in conse- quence of their absence.
Two gentlemen of the mission arrived at Hono- lulu, the same day of this conversation, from the Leeward Islands. Not having heard the cry of " Sail ho !" among the natives, I expressed my surprise on meeting them, at their getting into the harbour without being discovered; and, in expla- nation, learned that they had landed in the vessel in which they left Tauai, on the western side of
the island, at the same place visited by Mr. 5
and had come on foot over the same ground which he had travelled. It occurred to me at once, with- out informing my friends of the particular reason for the inquiry, to ask what the appearance of the country and plantations in that direction were ? They answered, that the cultivated parts were in luxuriant and beautiful growth ; so much so, that they had repeatedly on the way made the evidence of industry, and the fine order in the farms, the subject of remark ! I then informed them of the
report of Mr. , which they thought so utterly
impossible as to believe me in jest, till assured of the contrary.
Captain Beechey's visit at Oahu occurred some few months after this ; and his principal report of the condition of the people is, that they were in a state approaching to utter famine, from habits of indolence induced by the instruction and influence of the missionaries. That they had been taught, that to attend church seven times a day was all that was necessary for them ; and that a native had
CAPTAIN BEECHEY. 205
told him, (in what language and by whose inter- pretation ?) that it was " better to pray than to work ;" and the consequence was, that the planta- tions were going to ruin, and provisions so scarce, that the king, only a few days before, had been obliged to send to the American consul to beg a piece of bread !
Such is the report of Captain Beechey ; while his own ship, and all other vessels in port, were re- ceiving from the native market every refreshment, both animal and vegetable, that they needed or desired. The numerous foreigners resident at Honolulu were also living in abundance on the same resources; and a walk of fifteen minutes in the rear of the town, and the ride of an hour in almost any direction, would have shewn him thou- sands and thousands of acres of cultivated growth, as rich and exuberant as any ever known since the first discovery of the islands ! From whence, then, I would ask, did he gain his evidence of famine ? From assertions, no doubt, as well founded, as that
made by Mr. to me : and where was the
acute observation of the intelligent and scientific voyager ? — brooding, it is probable, in total neg- lect of the beautiful and fertile valleys around, over the dusty and sunburnt plain east of the port which he had been told was once covered with flourishing plantations ; without the addition, however, of the time when — a period " to which the memory" of foreign visitors at least " runneth not contrary !"
A few weeks only intervened between the visit
208 STATEMENT OF CAPTAIN VON KOTZEBUE.
of Captain Jones, of the U. S. ship Peacock, and that of Captain Beechey ; yet Captain Jones, whatever he may have heard, saw no evidence of a famine past or to come. On the contrary, for three months he beheld a market daily filled with the productions of the country, in a quantity sufficient for the refreshment of the Peacock and numerous other vessels in the harbour, during the whole pe- riod, and at a price more reasonable than at any other port visited by him in the Pacific. In place of a threatened famine from neglect of cultivation, there are the most satisfactory statistical data on record, to shew that for years previous to the visit of Captain Beechey to the present time, the in- crease in vegetable and animal supplies has been more than proportionate to the increase in the number of ships frequenting the group.
Captain Von Kotzebue left the Sandwich Islands on his return to Russia a few days previous to my embarkation for England and the United States, in 1825. In his " New Voyage round the World" after speaking of the missionaries, of their influ- ence and their character, in a very detractive man- ner, he asserts that my intended departure was occasioned by the injudicious and reprehensible measures of my associates, especially of Mr. Bing- ham, and by finding the objects for which I had left my country in this manner defeated. I should have been utterly at a loss to conjecture on what authority such an assertion could have been made, but for a fact which had previously come to my knowledge.
3IR. BINGIIAM. 207
While Captain Jones was at Oahu, in 1826, a gentleman, in speaking of me, assigned this same reason for my retirement from the mission ; and in support of it mentioned, that he had received a letter from me in which I acknowledged the fact. Only a short time previous, Captain Jones had himself seen a letter, addressed by me from the Georgian Islands to one of the missionaries, in which sentiments and feelings at utter variance with sucli a statement were strongly expressed. Of this he informed the gentleman, saying that he should be pleased to see that which I had addressed to him. He promised to shew it — but afterwards said it was mislaid, and could not be found. The truth is I never, to the best of my knowledge, ad- dressed a letter to that individual, either before or after sailing from the islands. In connexion with this circumstance, it was no difficult task to account for the paragraph in the publication of the voyager. If no other means had been open to him, he would have found better authority on this point in one of the most interesting and polished of his officers, whose parting words after a warm benediction, were, " Reminiscaris interdum mei, qui in tua domo familiaque se inter quos habet carissimos, in patria reductum putabat."
Mr. Bingham is the subject of special obloquy in the work of Von Kotzebue ; and 1 should be doing injustice to my heart, not to present in this place my own estimate of his character.
That he is a man of superior intellect, of good education, and of much general and practical
208 MR BINGHAM
knowledge, all acquainted with him must admit, while those who know him best, are equally aware of the benevolence and kindness of his heart. His evil, in the eyes of his calumniators, can only be an unreserved devotion of all his powers to the enter- prize in which he is engaged— the entire conver- sion, moral renovation, and eternal good of the islanders. For the achievement of this, he spares himself neither by day nor by night, but, in refe- rence to it, is " instant in season and out of season ;" and, after a series of exhausting labours from the rising to the setting of every sun, trims the mid- night lamp over the construction of books for the schools, and translations from the scriptures for the habitations and closets of the people. He has no policy in his measures not approved by all his associates, and exerts no influence over the chiefs and people differing from that of any other mis- sionary, except such as may arise from a seniority of residence and the ties of long attachment.
Mr. Bingham, however, is not the only indivi- dual misrepresented. From the notices of this voyager the whole of the missionaries are to be regarded as an ignorant and vulgar set of men, unfitted to instruct even the natives in the most common arts. They do not claim for themselves, nor would I claim for them, the name and repu- tation of accomplished scholars; nor do they affect the wisdom of the philosopher and devotee to science : but all the ordained ministers of their company (by far the greater number in the whole) have received regular, classical, and col-
AND HIS ASSOCIATES. 209
legiate educations, and are as well-informed, on most subjects, as persons of their profession in any country. They are accurate and intelligent observers of the phenomena occasionally taking place around them, and have furnished articles in such cases, that have been thought worthy the notice of men well known in the circles of science and letters. For amusement and useful infor- mation, they have, when on the shore, measured the altitudes of the mountains ; and ogain when on the summits of these, have taken the bearings of the points of the islands, and from the data, projected maps more accurate than any previously drawn ; and in their various tours for purposes connected with the mission, have furnished to correspondents descriptions of scenery, and no- tices of the habits and condition of the people, which for beauty and interest will compare with the writings of travellers of reputation.
Such qualifications of mind and of education must at least save them from contempt. But, even were they less favoured in this respect than they are, their principles, their personal example, their influence, and their aim, are such that, whatever the estimate now placed upon them may be, I am persuaded, that at last they will be accounted in the number of those of whom " the world was not- worthy;" and the drapery which M. Von Kotzebue has cast around me, as standing in his work in relievo to such men, in- stead of a mantle of kindness, must ever be esteem- ed by me a BADGE OF REPROACH.
210 VISIT OF THE MISSIONARIES.
LETTER LIX.
GOVERNMENT DEBT, AND STATE OF COMMERCE.
Visit of the Missionaries. — Commercial Arrangements. — Increase of Trade — Official Letter of the American Consul.
U. S. ship Vincennes, port of Hololulu, November 3d, 1829.
ON Saturday the whole mission family were entertained on board the Vincennes. Captain Finch, after receiving the ladies, and welcoming them to his cabin, was obliged to excuse himself, and, with Mr. Bingham, as interpreter, go on shore to meet the king and Governor Boki in a private conference respecting the claims of the American merchants upon the native government — to secure payment of which, he had tendered his services, through the American consul, to the respective houses interested.
The interview continued the greater part of the day ; and, on returning to the ship in the even- ing, he expressed great regret that I could not have been with him. The development of native intellect, and evidences of a capacity for the ma- nagement of financial and governmental affairs, exhibited on this occasion, he considers decidedly the most interesting that have yet come under his notice.
He was greatly delighted with the dignified and business-like manner in which the king, as well as Boki, entered upon the exposition of their com-
COMMERCIAL RELATIONS. 211
mercial relations; and with the intelligence and ability of both, in the discussion of the subject, during the interview. From Mr. Bingham I learn that the captain improved the opportunity of giving the king much important advice, as a pri- vate friend, in reference to his fiscal affairs : urged upon him the importance of keeping himself and government free from pecuniary embarrassments, of having a treasurer qualified to preserve his accounts in an intelligible manner, &c. &c-
The conference was resumed yesterday morning, in the presence of all the chiefs; and an investiga- tion of accounts took place, which resulted in the acknowledgment of about Sp. Drs. 50,000 due to different American merchants and ship-masters, with a pledge, on the part of the chiefs, to liqui- date the whole within the ensuing nine months. The debts are principally those contracted by the late king Riho Riho, and by Taumuarii of Tauaij previous to his death.
Sandal- wood for the payment of the same claims, was collected after the visit of Captain Jones, but appropriated by Boki to new pur- chases, without the knowledge of the regent and king. The payment now to be made is also to be in sandal wood; and Maaro of Maui, who accompanied Governor Hoapiri and the princess to Oahu, has already, by the application of 'his arithmetic to the case, assessed the amount re- quisite, on the different islands, according to the population and quantity of wood on each, to be collected by a general tax.
212 OFFICIAL LETTER
An American merchant, now in business Honolulu, and who was here previous to the ar- rival of the missionaries in 1820, informs me that the advance in the commercial importance of the islands within the ten years past, has not been less than seven hundred per cent. Upon this point, however, I will refer you to the following official letter of Mr. Jones addressed to Captain Finch.
United States Consulate, Sandwich Islands, Honolulu, Oahu, October 30, 1829.
Dear Sir ;
In your communication of the 19th inst., re- ceived at this Consulate, you have requested me to give you such information as I may be pos- sessed of relative to the state, extent, value, and wants of the American commerce of these islands, in consequence of the government of the United States having evinced a lively interest for its better protection and more successful prosecu- tion.
In complying with this request I shall en- deavour to be as concise as possible, and give you such information only as shall be conceived most desirable for our government to be informed of. Since the discovery of the Whale Fishery on the coast of Japan, and the independence of re- publics of the western coast of North and South America, the commerce of the United States at the Saildwich Islands has vastly increased ; of such importance have these islands become to our ships, which resort to the coast of Japan for the
OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL. 213
prosecution of the whale fishery, that without another place could be found possessing equal advantages of conveniences and situation, our fishery on Japan would be vastly contracted, or pursued under circumstances the most disadvan- tageous.
The importance, also, of the Sandwich Islands to ships bound from the wrestern coast of North and South America to China or Manilla, has of late years been fully tested ; the number of such vessels which visit these islands is annually in- creasing, and they have been found to afford them every advantage for repairing, refreshment, &c., and, generally, a market for parts of cargoes, which such vessels commonly have remaining un- sold at the time of leaving the coast of Western America ; these vessels also generally obtain from the islands a freight of sandal- wood, either for Canton or Manilla, which is quite an induce- ment of itself to attract them to these isles.
The commerce of the United States, which re- sorts to the Sandwich Islands, may be classed under five heads, viz. : First, Those vessels which trade direct from the United States to these islands for sandal-wood, and from hence to China and Manilla, and return to America. Second, Those vessels which are bound to the North-west Coast on trading voyages for furs, and touch here on their outward-bound passage, generally winter at these islands, and always stop on their return to the United States, by the way of China. Third, Those vessels which on their passage from Chili,
214 OFFICAL LETTER
Peru, Mexico, or California, to China, Manilla, or the East- Indies, stop at these islands for re- freshments or repairs, to obtain freight, or dis- pose of what small cargoes they may have left. Fourth, Those vessels which are owned by Ame- ricans resident at these islands, and employed by them in trading to the North-west Coast, to California and Mexico, to Canton and Manilla. Fifth, Those vessels which are employed in the whale fishery on the coast of Japan, which visit semi-annually.
Of the first class of vessels which visit these islands annually, the number may be estimated at six, the amount of tonnage eighteen hundred, and the value of vessels and cargoes at three hun- dred and twenty thousand dollars. Of the second class, the number may be estimated at five, the tonnage one thousand, and the value of vessels and cargoes two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Of the third class, the number may be estimated at eight, the tonnage two thousand five hundred dollars, and the value of vessels and cargoes at five hundred thousand dollars. Of the fourth class, the number may be estimated at six, the tonnage one thousand, and the value of vessels and cargoes two hundred thousand dollars. Of the fifth class, the number may be estimated at one hundred, the tonnage thirty-five thousand, and the value of vessels and cargoes at four millions. Thus making the commerce of the United States, which annually visits the Sandwich Islands, amount to one hundred and twenty-five
OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL. 215
vessels, estimated at forty thousand tons, and valued at five millions two hundred and seventy thousand dollars. This estimate is made from the average number of vessels which have visited these islands during the last three years ; and will, I believe, be found to be very near the ex- tent and value of our commerce here.
The importance of the Sandwich Islands to the commerce of the United Slates which visits these seas, is, perhaps, more than has been estimated by individuals, or our government been made ac- quainted with. To our whale fishery on the coast of Japan, they are indispensably necessary ; hither those employed in this business repair in the months of April and May, to recruit their crews, refresh and adjust their ships; they then proceed to Japan, and return in the months of October and November. It is necessary that these ships, after their cruise on Japan, should return to the nearest port; in consequence a large majority resort to these islands, certain here to obtain any thing of which they may be in want ; a small proportion, however, of these vessels have proceeded for supplies and refreshments, in the fall, to the ports on the coast of California ; but as the government of Mexico have now im- posed a duty of two dollars and one- eight per ton on every ship that shall anchor within their waters, whether in distress or otherwise, this will of course prevent our whale ships from visiting that coast ; and the Sandwich Islands will then
216 OFFICIAL LETTER
remain as the only resort for them, after their cruise on the coast of Japan.
As the government of the Republics of South America become settled, and peace established on their shores, our commerce with these nations will undoubtedly increase, and the result will of course have a tendency to bring more commerce to the islands ; here all vessels bound to China, Manilla, or the East- Indies, will stop on their passage, and the more the advantages which these islands afford to such vessels are known, the more they will become frequented.
When we reflect, that only a few years since the Sandwich Islands were not known to exist — when but lately they were visited only by a few ships bound to the North-west Coast of America, and these merely stopping to purchase a few yams or potatoes, and that now there annually come to this remote corner of the globe forty thousand tons of American shipping, with the sure prospect that, in no long protracted period, this number will double, we are led to conclude that the Sandwich Islands will yet be immensely more important to the commerce of the United States which visit these seas, than they have been.
You, Sir, will have seen at this part of Hono- lulu, a little of the extent and importance of our commerce, and you will be able to form some es- timate of the advantages which these islands afford ; and it is hoped you will conceive it pro-
OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL. 217
per, to urge on our government the necessity and propriety of extending a strong arm of pro- tection to those citizens, who adventure to this remote part of the world. I say protection, for I conceive so large a commerce, and so far re- moved from the laws and restraints of civilized society, requires to be regulated by the appear- ance, if not the actual force, of power.
The annual, if not semi-annual, visit of one of our ships of war to these islands, is conceived to be necessary, and would, no doubt, be attended with the best ad vantages, affording to our commerce in these seas protection, assistance, and security.
For this station, a sloop of war would be suffi- cient for every purpose required ; and, if so ar- ranged as to visit these islands in the months of March, April, and May, and again in October and November, every desired object would then be effected, and the result be, that our merchant- men, and whalers would come to the islands with perfect security ; their tarry here made safe ; and many abuses and inconveniences with which they are now shackled, would be done away. The very knowledge that a ship of war would semi- annually be at the Sandwich Islands, would be of infinite service to our commerce in general which enters the waters of the North Pacific ocean.
Since my residence on these islands as an offi- cer of government, I have repeatedly, in the dis- charge of my official duties, felt the want of pro- tection and aid from the power of my govern- ment I have been compelled to see the guilty
VOL. II. L
218 OFFICIAL LETTER
escape with impunity; the innocent suffer without a cause ; the interests of my countrymen abused; vessels compelled to abandon the object of their voyage, in consequence of desertion and mutiny; and men who might be made useful to society, suffered to prowl amongst the different islands, a disgrace to themselves and their country, and an injury to others whom they are corrupting and encouraging to do wrong. From such sources, our commerce, in this quarter of the world, has suffered much ; and I have the confidence to be- lieve that the regular visits of our ships of war, to these islands, (their commanders being clothed with sufficient power to act,) would have the best tendency to regulate all things, and secure to our commerce in this quarter every thing of which it now so importantly feels the want.
I would suggest to yourself the propriety of recommending to our government, that a ship of war be detached for the protection of American commerce in these waters ; that she be required annually to visit the Society and Marquesas Islands, and semi annually, the Sandwich Islands; that in the intermediate periods, when she might not be employed at such islands, it shall be re- quired that she visit the ports of California and Mexico, to afford protection to our commerce and citizens in that quarter, where they have for a long time been suffering under the abuses of an ill-regulated government.
I might point out to you many more, and im- portant reasons, why our commerce in these wa-
OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL. 219
ters requires more protection — they are constantly coming under my observation, and I daily see the propriety and necessity that our government should act as I have suggested to you ; but I will forbear to trouble you longer with this report, which, though superficial, I hope will (with in- formation you may obtain from other sources) be sufficient to answer the object for which you addressed me on the 19th inst.
Be pleased to accept for yourself the assurance of the respect and esteem with which
I am, Sir, your obedient servant, (Signed) JOHN C. JONES, JR.
To W. C. B. FINCH, Esq. Commanding U. S. ship Vincennes.
LETTER LX.
A RIDE TO THE COUNTRY HOUSE OF GOVERNOR B'JKI, AND EVENING ENTERTAINMENT BY THE KING.
Invitation by Governor Boki. — Equipage of the Regent. — The General Cavalcade.— Horsemanship of the King- — , New Turnpike. — Battle-ground. — Scenery of the Valley and Encampment of the Governor. — Entertainment and Course of the Shrimp. — Supper at the Palace.
U. S. ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, November 5th, 18^9.
AT the close of the commercial transactions on Monday, Governor Boki informed Captain Finch
L2
220 INVITATION BY GOVERNOR BOKt.
and myself, that the king, princess, and queen regent, were to spend the next day with him and Madam Boki, at a cottage occupied by them in the valley of the Nuuanu, directly inland from the port — adding that he should be happy to see us, and any of the officers who might choose to take the ride, en famille, with them. A trip to the celebrated Pari or Pass of Kolau, within a couple of miles of ihe residence of the governor, being yet an unaccomplished object with us, we readily accepted the invitation ; and a delightful day indeed it proved to be.
The captain, Lieutenant Stribling, and myself, landed immediately after breakfast. My com- panions were supplied with horses by Mr. Jones and Mr. French ; and I, through the kindness of the owner, with a beautiful animal, the property of Madam Halileo, wife of the king's private se- cretary. The palace-yard had been appointed as a place of rendezvous with the chieftains ; and, on mounting, we rode there to join them.
The regent, among other equipages, has a handsomely finished and expensive gig of foreign manufacture. She made great use of it till the occurrence lately of a disaster or two, when tak- ing the air in it. On one occasion, in driving herself in the vicinity of her country house at Manao, absorbed in more important musings, she did not sufficiently regard the narrowness of the road on the bank of a taro patch, filled with mud and water, and found her portly figure very sud- denly transferred, without much regard to the
F^UiPAGES OF THE REGENT. 221
manner or attitude in which she was left, from the height of her vehicle into the mire below ; and not long afterwards, General Rekuanaoa, in acting the beau to her, gave a practical demon- stration of the readiness with which the centre of gravity of a high gig, containing two nobles of three hundred pounds each, may be shifted in turning a corner in the true style of James Street, In both cases her majesty escaped material injury, but since these events, she has been content with a more unpretending establishment — a little low car of green, with two wheels, drawn by a pair of shaggy gray donkeys, driven tandem with a har- ness of undressed goat- skin.
On the present occasion, as the road in some parts is not well fitted for wheels, she chose to dismiss the donkeys, and to commit her safety in the draught of the barrow to bipeds, who could be managed by word of mouth without hazarding the uncertainty of the rein ; and on our arrival at the palace, we found her already seated under an umbrella in her vehicle, with six or eight stout islanders in readiness to transport her up the val- ley, and a numerous train on foot, bearing the various appendages of her service.
The princess, in a black dress, with a mantle of scarlet satin, and white silk hat trimmed with flowers, rode a spirited black horse, with Maaro her secretary, and a dozen others of her house- hold and fo lowers in company ; while the king was mounted on a noble charger of iron gray, and surrounded by a suite of twenty-five or thirty
THE GENERAL CAVALCADE.
chieftains and favourites on fine and well -equipped horses. Captain Finch, Mr. Stribling, and my- self, made up the number, forming a cavalcade of fifty on horseback, while as many accompanied us on foot to bear water-flagons, £c., and to take charge of the horses in dismounting.
By ten o'clock we were all in readiness ; and as we issued from the yard through the gate open- ing in the rear upon the country, presented, in our various groupings and equipments, no little of the aspect, for this part of the world at least, of a royal party on an excursion of pleasure.
The morning was delightful; the heavens of the finest blue ; and the sun, though bright, not oppressive, with the trade-wind blowing freshly from the mountains in our faces* All things without, and seemingly all within, joined to produce a flow of spirits the most buoyant and cheering. Our horses, full of nerve and muscle, partook in no small degree of the excite- ment of feeling," and impatient of even the sligh^ restraint we had any disposition to impose on them, pranced gaily over the swelling grounds at the foot of Fort Hill, as we wound round it to the entrance of the valley; the restiveness of some —among others those of the king and his imme- diate escort — being such as to lead their riders occasionally to diverge from the direct road, and by taking a sweep of half a mile with unchecked rein, to reduce them to a degree of sobriety better suited to the convenience of the general retinue.
The king is exceedingly fond of the exercise of
HORSEMANSHIP OF THE KING. 223
riding, and is an accomplished horseman. In his whole air and attitude, and in the ease and grace- fulness of his movements, he need scarce shun a comparison with the most admired of the Spanish caballeros seen on the coast. He has been in- structed by a skilful English groom, still in his service, and owns a stud of more than a hundred horses. It is said that much of the ea-e and gracefulness of his manners is attributable to his fondness for riding, and to his mastery of the manly accomplishment.
On reaching the first steam of water, that which comes from the valley of Ua, and the stone walls enclosing the plain, we had a specimen of the facility with which royalty here, as well as in more noble nations, triumphs over obstacles of impor- tance in the movements of inferior persons. Neither the rocky banks, nor bed of the mountain- torrent, nor the substantial stone barrier on the opposite side, impeded for a moment the chariot /wheels of the regent ; and she sat most com- posedly in her equipage while it was dashed down one steep bank, and over the rocks at the bottom of the stream — one wheel at one moment poising high in the air, and the other equally so at the next, then up the opposite side, and straight over a wall three or four feet high.
After passing the front of the hill in which the spur of mountain dividing the two valleys, Ua and Nuuanu, terminates towards the port, we came to the principal stream flowing down the latter, and at which is the commencement at pre-
224 NEW TURNPIKE.
sent of a fine turnpike-road now making by Boki, from the harbour to the Pari. The sides of the hills on either side are excavated sufficiently to give room for two carriages to pass, and a sub- stantial bridge is to be thrown across the water. For some cause, which we did not ascertain, it is carried on in detached parts here and there, in no place more than a mile in continuance, but promising, when completed, to make as beautiful a drive as could be desired in any part of the world, and a work that will do much credit to the government, and add greatly to the resources of pleasure among the residents and visitors at Honolulu.
After crossing this stream, and mounting the opposite bank, the ascent for several miles is gradual, affording extensive views on either hand and towards the sea, of the rich plantations with which the mouth of the valley is filled. Here our company presented a lively and animating spectacle. Where the new road had been laid out and completed, we dashed on en masse over its broad gravelly surface, followed by a long line of pedestrians, exhibiting every variety in the colour and form of their costume; but where the original paths diverging from one another, and winding in different directions, were only to be found, we became divided into separate parties, cantering in long lines of single file over hillock and through dingle, first on one side of the valley and then on another, till at the end of three or four miles, we came again upon a stretch of the
BATTLE GROUND. 225
road just on the battle ground, where the victory of Tamehameha over the king of Oahu, about thirty-five years ago, decided the fortunes of that successful warrior, and made him monarch of the group.
Here Kauikeauoli, with several of the more in- telligent of his companions, had drawn up, and waited the arrival of the captain who was in com- pany with the princess, in order to acquaint him with the historical interest of the ground, and to point out the stations of the respective parties, their numbers, and the character and issue of the contest. The group presented as we gathered round him to listen to his statement, connected with the scene in the history of the islands which has imparted its interest to the ground, would have afforded a subject scarce beneath the pencil of a master, while it told a tale by the contrast of its parts thus brought together in the passing ex- hibition, and by imagination of that long since gone by, worthy of a place on canvas.
In the centre was the youthful sovereign, such as I have described him, of fine figure and easy manners, in a handsome riding suit and mounted on a noble animal of a species the name of which had probably never here been heard, on the day of this decisive battle ; descanting, while his eyes sparkled with intelligence and interest in the theme, on the feats of the savage ancestor who had secured to him his dominion. By his side, in the attire of an elegant female, and i qually well mounted, was his sister, sharing no little in the
L3
SCENERY OF THE VALLEY AND
animation of his narrative, while clustered round on horseback, were forty or fifty chosen friends and companions, with every appearance in the dress and manners of the whole of no contt mp- tible degree of civilization, and even refinement. With this group in your eye for a foreground,
dear H , fill up the picture in the wild glen
with thousands of a savage race in all the fury of a deadly conflict — foe struggling in nakedness with foe, while barbarous menaces and hideous shouts, amidst the brandishment and hurling of spears and war clubs, add to the terrors of the sight. And when the piece is thus sketched would you imagine that the figures of the foreground and those of the filling up are people of the same race ? of the same age — and almost of the same quarter of a century? Would you believe the civilized and Christian brother and sister, the eldest scarce sixteen, to be the son and the daughter of the most fearful of the leaders of the savage horde ? Yet such is the fact; and such the strength of contrast which the changes of little more than thirty years here present.
At this spot the beauty and magnificence of the mountain scenery of the valley becomes striking; but for its characteristic features, and for a des- cription of the sublime spectable exhibited at the Pari or precipice itseif, I must again say to you, see Stewart's " Residence in the Sandwich Isla?ids."
Less than two miles from the battle ground brought us, by a fine stretch of turnpike, down a gentle hill, to a grove of acacia surrounding the
ENCAMPMENT OF THE GOVERNOR. 227
temporary abode of Boki, a rural and refreshing spot on a slight elevation near the road side, beneath the shade of some beautiful trees, and within hearing of the rumbling of numerous mountain torrents and the dashing of a distant cascade. The governor designs to build a country house at this place; but the present es- tablishment is merely an encampment in booths for himself and household, while he is super- intending the construction of the road. The principal building, a little cottage, or rather tent of poles, scarce twelve feet square, thatched with the green and shining leaves of the dracosna, stands on a terrace of sward some feet above the level of the ground in front. It is chiefly intended as a shelter in sleeping, the terrace itself in the shade Qf the grove presenting a more inviting place for all other purposes. This, just strewn with fresh fern leaves and spread witli mats, was the reception-room to which Madam Boki, in a handsome dress and head tastefully crowned with flowers, gave us a most cordial welcome, followed by a presentation of bouquets. Every thing around was admirably suited to refresh and delight us; and two or three hours passed rapidly after our ride in lounging and in conversation, while we were served with fruit and wine.
Captain Finch, Mr. Stribling, the princess, three or four of her train, and myself, then rode to the Pari, two miles further up the glen ; and after eujoying with great admiration the magnifi- cence of its scenery, returned to a dinner which
228 ENTERTAINMENT AND
we had been apprized was in preparation. This was spread in china and glass in the centre of the green booth described, on a mat upon the ground ; and when summoned to partake of it, each was left to his choice between the attitude of a Turk and a Roman, during the meal. The regent, princess, and king, with his private secretary Halileo, were the only persons, besides ourselves and hosts, admitted to the entertainment. It con- sisted of a dish of baked fish at the head, before the governor ; a pig at the foot, carved by the secretary; a plate of chickens on one side in the middle, and a brace of wild fowl opposite; with four round dishes at the corners, two containing a mixture of pork and taro tops cooked together, and two potatoes and taro as vegetables ; while a large salad dish filled with delightful water-cresses from the springs around, occupied the centre; the beverage being the finest mountain water, with Madeira, claret, and muscadine wines. All the cooking was in the native style — in an oven of heated stones ; and each article was spread on its respective dish in the inner coat of the leaves in which it had been baked.
We greatly relished a repast so well prepared and so neatly served. After the moats were re- moved, Madam Boki drew the casters and salad- bowl near her, as I at first supposed, to give us a specimen of her tact in salad dressing; but on seeing a servant approach with a parcel hand- somely done up in green leaves dripping with water, and observing a smile of archness playing
COURSE OF LIVE SHRIMP. 229
on the features of her ladyship as she received it from him, I began to suspect it was only in pre- paration for some bonne bouche, peculiarly epicu- rean in its character. Such it proved to be, for on carefully untying it, while her eye brightened more and more with pleasantry, she suddenly scattered the contents — a quantity of live shrimp as pure and transparent as could be, and as sprightly as crickets — over the cresses, and dash- ing the cruet of vinegar upon the uhole, caught up a half dozen of the delicate creatures in the leaves of the salad, and tossed them, with a laugh, into her mouth, by way of encouragement to us to join in the course. The captain is too cour- teous a gentleman to stop short of any civility due to the lady of the house, and considering this a kind of challenge, went through the movement of taking a similar quantity in his fingers, and in raising it to his mouth, whether with the intention of following the example farther or not I cannot say, but, in ruse or not, I saw one at least of the nimble fry hop fairly down his throat.
Our return towards night to the town was as delightful as the ride in the morning had been ; and the day was pleasantly closed at the mission - house, where the band had been ordered from the ship for the serenade of an hour or two.
The diner de champetre of Governor Boki was followed last night by an entertainment by the king. The invitations to Captain Finch and the officers in general were in writing, and brought on board by the private secretary. Seven o'clock
230 SUPPER AT
was the hour appointed, but it was past eiglit be- fore all the company — consisting of the principal chiefs, most of the missionaries, both ladies and gentlemen, including the Rev. Mr. Whitney and Mrs. Whitney, who arrived from Tauai a few days since, and as many of the officers of the Vin- cennes as could leave the ship at the same time — had assembled. The palace was well lighted, the company well dressed, and with the band from our ship playing at the entrance, the general effect was quite equal to that of the morning levee.
At nine o'clock we became seated at a supper- table, handsomely laid in china and glass for thirty-five or more, with dishes and covers of silver plate. The king occupied the head, and Madam Boki, as the matron of his household, the foot of the table; while Captain Finch was placed in the centre, on one side, between the princess and queen regent, with Governor Boki and Mr. Bingham, as interpreter, opposite. The princess returned the compliment of the captain, in wearing her feather cape at the examination, by exhibiting upon her neck on this occasion — in addition to a dress of white satin richly em- broidered with gold, and a lofty becoming toque of crimson and white gauze, elegantly arranged and finished — an exquisitely wrought gold chain of the manufacture of Panama, which he had pre- sented to her as a mark of private respect and friendship. To the king he had given, in the same manner, a large and handsomely framed print of the Declaration of Independence, by
THE PALACE. 231
Colonel Trumbull, which I was pleased also to see occupying a conspicuous place in the apart- ment.
The entertainment consisted of three courses : first, cold meats, ham and tongues sliced, with biscuit and butter, &c. ; second, coffee and tea, with different kinds of cake; third, fruits, melons, bananas, grapes, &c., with cider, and a variety of wines. In this last article, however, his majesty had suffered an imposition from his wine mer- chant in the village that extended to his guests ; for while he had ordered the best in store, and had paid an exorbitant price, as Governor Boki informed us, notwithstanding a great show of seals and marks, as if from the cellar of a genuine bon- vivant, it was, for the most part, a villa nous manufacture. This, however, was no drawback to the enjoyment of the evening, and it was near twelve o'clock before, serenaded by the band, we pulled off to the ship.
LETTER LXI.
SECOND VISIT TO LAHAINA.
Chiefs and their luggage. — Arrival at Lahaina Letter of
the Princess to Mrs. Stewart.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, off Hawaii, Nov. llth, 1829.
EARLY after the arrival at Oahu of the chief- tains from Maui and Hawaii, Captain Finch de-
CHIEFS AND THEIR LUGGAGE.
termined to invite them to return to their respec- tive islands in the Vincennes, with a design of asking the king also to make the voyage.
I acted as interpreter in delivering the invita- tion. It was highly gratifying to them ; and the general exclamation on hearing it was, " This is indeed a joy-making man-of-war!^ Thursday, the 5th instant, was the day appointed for the embarkation ; and at four o'clock in the after- noon the whole company were brought Dn board by the captain, in a procession of the ship's boats, under a salute of twenty-one guns returned by the fort, the Tamehameha having previously fired the same number as the boats passed her in the harbour.
Were we in the vicinity of a court gazette, the notice of the trip, with the names and titles of our royal passengers, would form quite an im- posing paragraph. His majesty the king, private secretary, and suite, including the noble whose special duty it is to guard his head, and whose prerogatives extend to the exclusive privilege of awaking his sovereign from sleep, the keeper of the wardrobe, steward of the household, &c. &c. ; her royal highness the Princess Harieta and at- tendants; the ex-queens Kekauruohe and Kekau- onohi ; Madam Boki, lady of the Governor of Oahu ; their excellencies the Governors of Maui and Hawaii ; Naihe, chief councillor of state, and lady, &c. &c. with their respective attendants, making in all the goodly number of thirty-six.
ARRIVAL AT LAHAINA. 233
Mr. Bingham, at the united request of Captain Finch and the king, was also of the party.
Pleasantry aside, however, the whole party was highly respectable in their appearance and de- meanour, as well as in their rank. No one un- acquainted with the state of the nation, would have believed the baggage brought on board pre- viously to the embarkation to be that of a com- pany of natives, consisting of highly ornamented and showy travelling trunks, carpet bags, port- manteaus, writing-desk, dressing-cases, portfolios, band-boxes, &c., the whole in an elegance and good keeping, that, set down in advance of the company, before an American or English hotel, would make the eyes of the landlord glisten at the assurance afforded by the luggage, of the rank and resources of the owners.
During the voyage the chiefs were seated at the cabin table, going through all the forms of polished society ; changing their dresses for din- ner, &c., and exhibiting, in other respects, no little acquaintance with the etiquette of high life. A principal amusement with them, especially in the evening, on deck, was in singing hymns. Of these they are very fond ; and have learned to sing so well, especially the king and his sister, that no one can listen to them without interest and pleasure.
On the second evening from Oahu, we arrived at Lahaina. The princess and governor of Maui were to be left here; and the captain, wishing to honour them with a salute, boats were ordered out
234> LETTER OF THE PRINCESS
to carry them on shore, when yet some distance from the anchorage, in the apprehension that we should not be able to drop anchor before sunset, after which time, in our service, it is not custom- ary to fire a salute. The captain himself intend- ed seeing them on shore ; and as soon as the boats had pulled ahead of the ship, the compliment was paid, and our probable name and character at once made known by it, throughout the settle- ment.
The visit was equally a surprise and a joy, both to the missionaries and the people; and I have had the happiness of spending two more days de- lightfully with them. Yesterday, at noon, how- ever, I was called painfully to bid them a final adieu ; and we once more took our anchor from the midst of a fleet of whale ships, and filled away for Hawaii, with a salute, answered by a battery planted near the landing.
Among other tokens of affection and remem- brance sent to you, dear H , I find a letter of
the princess, of which the following is a literal translation.
Lahaina, Maui, Nov. 10th 1829.
Where art thou, my greatly beloved mother, Mrs. Stewart ?
I write to you with anguish of heart, that we no more meet in person, and that our eyes no more fall upon each other; though, I believe, that in mind and feelings we are ever one, and thus dwell together. Still my heart is pained within me.
TO MRS. STEWART. 235
At the time we met Mr. Stewart, my sorrow of spirit was relieved; but as my eyes fell on his face, my love for you was revived. How shall I express my affection for you, and for your children ?
It becomes me to acquaint you with some of my feelings at the present time. I am, externally, among the people of God, and employed in acts of religion, though not perhaps with full purpose of heart. It i«, however, my inmost desire for ever to repose on the couch of righteousness; and for this I daily entreat the Lord, that he would esta- blish his kingdom in my heart, and grant me his exceeding grace.
My mind is often on passing trifles, but by no means with that intensity of feeling and strong de- sire with which, I think, my soul is fixed on the ways of piety. I truly feel that my supreme wish is after holiness : but still I perceive that a single day by no means passes without sin. One day my thoughts are fixed on God ; another day I am ensnared : and thus it is continually.
These things I say that you may be acquainted with my real character. I think that my inmost spirit seeks after righteousness as my constant companion.
Jane Young (her bosom friend) sends much love to you, with strong regret that she never saw you. She in reailty has great affection for you. Again I must express my own affection fur you, my beloved friend in the Lord Jesus Christ, who alone can give us life in the world without end. Great love to all your friends and con- nexions. HARIETA KEOPUOLANI.
236 RECEPTION AT KAAVAROA
LETTER LXIL
THREE DAYS AT KEARAKEKUA AND KAAVAROA.
Reception at Kaavaroa by Kapiolani. — Visit at Kairua.— Grave of Mrs. Bishop. — Preaching in a Grove. — Sabbath Evening Scene. — Party on board Ship. — Wife of King Taraiopu. — Autobiography by Kopiolani. — Farewell at Kaavaroa.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, off Hawaii,
November 17th 1829.
AT mid day on the 13th, we came to anchor in the memorable bay of Kearakekua. We had the evening before been so near the entrance of it, that the double canoe of Kapiolani, a beautiful boat of the kind, with neatly-made canvas sails, and well manned with paddlers, came off and took her ladyship to the shore.
I was very agreeably disappointed in the ap- pearance of the country around this bay. A black and desolate precipice of lava immediately over- hangs it ; and the village of Kaavaroa, at its base on the left, stands upon a bare platform of the same ; but every thing inland, above the cliff, is verdant and refreshing, covered with plantations, groves, and single trees, with a forest beyond, overtopped majestically by Mounaroa in the distance.
Our company remained on board to dinner, and did not disembark till towards evening. The voy- age of Governor Adams, as well as that of Naihe and Kapiolani, was to terminate here ; and the sa-
BY KAPIOLANI. 237
lute, under which they left, had a most grand effect in the reverberations of the cliffs adjoining. I was one of the number who went on shore with the party, landing in front of Naihe's dwelling, on the very spot at which the unfortunate Cook perished. But a widely different exhibition from tlie savage and murderous scene of that day awaited our arrival. From a lofty and spaciotu building, enclosed with a neat court by a palisade fence and painted gate, our noble friend Kapio- lani was seen issuing, in the dress and with the air of a dignified matron at home, her face, at all times amiable and benignant, beaming with joy, as with outstretched arms, and tears starting in her eyes, she welcomed us with the customary " aloha — aloha!" repeated again and again, in a tone of kindness and warmth, that proved it to come from a bosom filled with hospitality and every generous affection.
This chief, more than any other, perhaps, has won our respect and sincere friendship. She is so intelligent, so amiable, so lady-like in her whole character, that no one can become acquainted with her without feelings of more than ordinary inte- rest and respect; and from all we had known of her, we were not surprised to find the establish- ment she dwells in equal, if not superior, to any we had before seen — handsomely arranged, well furnished, and neatly kept, with a sitting room, or hall, in which a nobleman, in such a climate, might be happy to lounge; and bed rooms adjoining, where, in addition to couches which the most fas-
238 VISIT AT
tidious would unhesitatingly occupy, are foun mirrors and toilet tables fitted for the dressin room of a modern belle.
It was near tea-time, and in the centre of t hall a large table was laid in a handsome service china ; and, after a short stroll in the hamlet, an the rehearsal of the tragedy of Captain Cook death on the rocks, at the edge of the water in which he fell, we surrounded it with greater d light than I had before experienced, in observing the improvement that has taken place in the do mestic and social habits of the chiefs. Kapiola presided at the tea-tray, and poured to us as g a cup of that grateful beverage as would have bee furnished in a parlour at home ; while, her hu band, at the opposite end, served to those wh chose to purtake of them, in an equally easy an gentleman-like manner, a pork steak and mutt chop, with nicely fried wheaten cakes. A kind of jumble, composed principally of eggs, sugar, an wheat flour, made up the entertainment. After th removal of these, a salver with a bottle of mus dine wine, glasses, and a pitcher of water, w placed on the hospitable board. And every da we remained, similar generous entertainment w spread before various parties from our ship.
The satisfaction derived from witnessing these exhibitions of household management and civilized life, was the greater to me from the fact, that with the exception of our ship's company, there was not a white person nearer to Kaavaroa than at Kairua, the residence of Governor Adams, sixteen mil
KAIRUA. 239
distant. Kapiolani alone was perceived evidently to be the mover and director of the whole.
It was not intended that the Vincennes should touch at Kairua ; and one of the three days we re- mained at Kearakekua, I appropriated to a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Thurton, at that place. My friends Magruder and Buchanan accompanied me. Ka- piolani, with as much cheerfulness and seeming joy, as if the kindness were in her own favour, ap- propriated her double canoe, with its complement of men, to our use in making the excursion — a conveyance altogether better adapted to the trip than any one of the ship's boats.
As it was necessary for us to return the same day, we were off before the dawn of the morning, while the land breeze still blew freshly from the mountains, and the stars twinkled brightly in the sky. Johnston, our kind steward, notwithstanding the jmseasonableness of the hour, had given us a cup of coffee before leaving the ship; and seated on mats covering the elevated platform between the two canoes, with our boat-cloaks around us, in conversation and befitting song, we watched cheerily the approach of day, as our light bark — rising and sinking with the swell of the dark rollers breaking almost at our side, in masses of foam on the lava-bound shore — glided swiftly for- ward under the pressure of her sails.
The sunrise views of Mouna Roa behind, and of Mouna Huararai before, with the uplands of the intervening coast,, were highly coloured and beautiful — separate from the other inducements.
240 VISIT AT KA1KUA.
worth the sail to he enjoyed — and with the novelty of our conveyance, and the constantly changing scenes along a thickly inhabited shore, prevented all tedium on our way.
By ten o'clock we had arrived at our destination. The governor was still at Kearekekua ; all the chiefs of the place had joined him there. Mr. Bishop and family were at Oahu, and Mr. Tluir- ston's establishment some distance inland, so that our first call was at a storehouse and retail shop of Mr. French, in charge of a China man. He received us kindly, and furnished us with refresh- ments of biscuit, preserved ginger, and wine; after partaking which, we directed our course in search of Mr. Thurston. Having heard, from the native of our arrival, we soon met him, on his way guide and welcome us to his dwelling. He always a favourite associate of mine, when residii at the islands, and the meeting with himself with Mrs. Thurston was both cordial and affecting Their lot is cast truly " in a dry and thirsty k so far as the immediate location of their resident and indeed of the whole of Kairua, is regarde< still they appeared comfortable and happy in thei establishment; and though alone, in the midst oi thousands who, as it were, only yesterday, were lost in heathenism, are cheerfully and successfully pursuing the work to which they have devoted their lives.
In the fore part of the day we walked again into the town; visited Governor Adams' residence — an American house — of frame, brought over and
GRAVE OF MRS. BISHOP. 241
erected, here, well- finished, papered, and painted, both without and within, and furnished in all its rooms, almost exclusively in the European style. We also passed through the chapel — an immense building; and when completed four years ago the finest native structure in the group. Near it, on one side within a small enclosure, is one ob- ject of deep and tender interest — the lowly grave of Mrs. Bishop, the companion of our voyage in the Thames, and our friend and associate; the first of this mission who has gone to her rest, and the first whose body has taken possession of the grave, in pledge that, even from these distant isles, there yet shall be " a resurrection of the just"
After a hospitable repast, prepared by Mrs. Thurston, we all, including herself and children, with natives to bear torches, descended into the cave of Ranakira, which opens on their grounds. For a description of this, however, I will refer you to Mr. Ellis's " Tour of Hawaii" in which every object and scene of physical and historic interest in this section of the island is noticed in a minute, able, and interesting manner.
Soon after reascending from the cavern, thank- ful for this interview for a few hours, it became necessary once more to interchange parting em- braces ; and joining our native boat, we were safely returned to Kaararoa in time to share in the usual evening entertainments of our kind hosts, Naihe and Kapiolani. The succeeding day was the Sabbath. Since the departure of the Rev Mr. Ely and family for America, on account of ill
VOL. II. M
242 PREACHING IN A GROVE.
health, six months since, this station has been destitute of preaching regularly. Mr. Bingham and Mr. Andrews, who came passengers to this place with us from Lahaina, performed the services of the day at this time. Our worship on board ship was so arranged, that those of the officers who wished it, were at liberty to be on shore, both in the morning and afternoon.
The principal difference in the appearance of the assemblage of islanders at this and the other stations we had visited, was in the place of wor- ship— a small grove of trees immediately in front of Naihe's house, paved with a natural bed of smooth lava. The chapel is entirely too small to accommodate the immense congregation that as- semble from the opposite side of the bay, and from along the coast many miles below. Not less than five thousand were supposed to be clustered round the preacher and circle of chieftains in the centre of the grove — as quiet, orderly, and seemingly devout, though half at least of the number were seated in the open sun, as if each knew and felt that he was listening for eternity.
A more pleasing and impressive scene can scarce be sketched, than that presented in the dispersion of the audience at the close of the afternoon ser- vice. By far the greater portion of the multitude had arrived by water ; and shortly after the bene- diction had been pronounced, without a rude or noisy word, or a single impropriety, unnumbered canoes were launched from every point of the rocky shore, and, receiving their respective com-
SABBATH EVENING SCENE. 243
plement of passengers, shoved off upon the bosom of the bay filled with bright and happy looks, and spread their white sails in a return to their re- spective abodes. The evening sun gleamed brightly, and to me joyously, upon the humble fleet; and the whole sight, with its associations of promise in reference to the future and eternal destinies of this race, was so delightful, that I could not avoid counting the canoes as we rowed off to the ship; and though many had already passed out of sight beyond the southern point, and many were yet unlaunched, I numbered two hundred and ten, each containing from three to fifteen^ persons, many of whom were twelve and fourteen miles, and some even a greater distance from their homes.
Such is the interest and excitement on the sub- ject of religion and of personal piety along the whole coast, and over a good portion of the island, that Mr. and Mrs. Thurston assured me it was literally true, that they were denied the ordinary hours of sleep and eating by the visits of persons demanding instruction in the way of salvation. Numbers daily crowded their premises for this purpose, not only from their immediate neigh- bourhood,, but from regions at a distance ; parties travelling on foot many weary miles, and carrying their food with them to supply their wants while encamped for a few days, or even for a few hours, near the mission- house, their only business the momentous inquiry, i{ What shall we do to be saved?"
M 2
244 PARTY ON BOARD SHIP.
We were to sail for Oahu again on Tuesday morning before daybreak, and Monday was busily improved by us in visiting the various spots of in- terest in the neighbourhood connected with the voyage and death of Captain Cook ; his encamp- ment on the south side of the bay ; the heiau or temple from which the fence was taken ; the cocoa- nut tree still marked with the shot of the guns from his ships, and the monument of rough lava and inscription to his memory on the spot to which his body was taken after the massacre, left by Lord Byron in 1825. The king took a party of us also, including Mr. Stribling, who is a great favourite with his majesty, in a double canoe to the village of Honaunau, four miles south of Kearakekua, distinguished as the location of the "House of the Gods' and " City of Refuge," so well described in Ellis's Tour of Hawaii.
In the afternoon all the chiefs, including the wife and daughter of Governor Adams — the former always styled Mrs Adams by his excellency— Ka- makau, long distinguished for piety at Kaavaroa, &c. &c , were entertained on board ship.
One of the most interesting of the party was a tall, venerable, fine-featured old lady, with benig- nant expression of countenance, and head white as silver : she appeared to be eighty years of age, though probably is not so old, and was the wife in her youth of Taraniopu, or Taraiopu, king of the island in the time of Cook, and the great grand- father, on the maternal side, of the present king. Under any circumstances, the sight of an indivi-
WIFE OF KING TARAIOPU. 2-15
dual thus associated with the discovery of the islands and the fate of the lamented navigator would be interesting; but facts connected with her recent history rendered it doubly so : she has lived, not only to see the introduction of the reli- gion of salvation in her long benighted country, but has shared, as is confidently believed, its richest blessings in
"soul renewed, and sins forgiven;"
is a member of the church, and has so applied herself to the acquisition of letters, as to be able to read the word of God in her native language, and daily to drink from its pure fountain of the waters of eternal life.
We returned to the shore with the whole party in the evening, and reflected with sincere regret, that we were for the last time enjoying the hospi- tality of the counsellor and his wife. Fireworks and rockets had been ordered to be exhibited from the ship; and at the time appointed for them, Kapiolani, Captain Finch, Mr. Bingham, and myself, took seats on a platform of stone at the side of the house next the bay. After the show had ceased, the Captain, in preparation for his departure, requested Mr. Bingham to express to Kapiolani the very great pleasure his visit to her had afforded him, and to present his warm thanks for the hospitality and kindness he had received — adding that he had not, since he left America, been entertained more cordially, or felt himself more happy, than under her roof.
246 AUTOBIOGRAPHY BY KAPIOLANI.
of ;
?n-
She was unwilling to hear even the first part the acknowledgment; but when the closing sen- timent was interpreted, her credulity became utterly shaken, and, limiting the force of his remark, she said, that he must mean, not since he left America, but since he had been among the heathen people of Nukuhiva, and such as the inhabitants were at Tahiti, and at this group. Finding him, however, determined to adhere to the strength of the original expression, she re- plied to the whole in a pleasant manner by saying, that all the kindness and all the favour of the visit had been to herself, to the king and chiefs, and to the whole nation ; that he might have had some gratification in the visit, but he could have had no happiness like theirs.; "for our happiness," she exclaimed, clasping her hands, and pressing them to her bosom, as she lifted her eyes glistening with tears to him, " our happiness is the joy of a captive just freed from his prison!"
Mr. Bingham having some writing to finish before going off to the ship, I remained with him after all the boats had left — Kapiolani having en- gaged to send us in a canoe, whenever we might wish to go on board. In the room which Mr. Bingham occupied, I perceived some manuscript books in the native language on a table, and on enquiring what they were, was no little surprised to learn that it was an AUTOBIOGRAPHY of this chief woman, intended to embrace the history of her own life and times, and in which she has pro- ceeded already through several interesting and not unimportant chapters.
FAREWELL AT KAAVAROA. 247
It was nearly twelve o'clock before Mr. Bing- ham was prepared to go to the ship. On entering the principal house again, we found the family at evening prayers — presenting, in the strong light of the lamps on a centre table, an impressive and deeply interesting spectacle, amidst the silence reigning on every side at the dead hour of night.
Here, again, the farewell I was called to take was truly painful. The paddlers of the canoe had been roused from their slumbers — other servants had lighted numerous brilliant torches of the candle-nut, tied together in leaves, to accompany us to the water ; and I was about giving my part- ing salutation, when not only Naihe, but Kapio- lani also, said, " Aohe mane, aohe mane—makai;" " No : not here, not here — but at the sea side ;" and, throwing a mantle around her, attended by her husband, she accompanied us to the surf, where, after many a warm grasp of the hand, and a tearful blessing, she remained standing on a point of rock, in bold relief amid the glare of torch -light around her, exclaiming again and again, as we shoved off, " Aloha Mita Tuata — aloha Mita Tuata Vahine — aloha kekapena — aloha karii /" — " Love to you Mr. Stewart — love to Mrs. Stewart — love to the captain, and love to the king !" while her handkerchief was waved in repetition of the expression, long after her voice was lost in the dashing of the waters, and till her figure was blended in the distance with the group by which she was surrounded.
248 NOTES OF THE KING
LETTER LXIII.
PRIVATE LETTER OF CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE KI
Notes of the King and Madam Boki. — Interpretation of the names of the Chiefs. — Private Letter of Captain Finch to the King.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, November 21, 1829.
AFTER an unusually boisterous passage of two days from Kearakekua, we entered this harbour again on the morning of the 19th inst.
When at sea off Hawaii one evening, Captain Finch on going into the cabin found Madam Boki at the writing-table, busily occupied with her pen ; while the king at the same time was dictating a letter to his private secretary. There was no other person in the cabin, and it appeared from the following notes that they were improving the opportunity to express their gratitude for the pleasure of the voyage, soon to be brought to a close by our return to Oahu. I furnish you with a translation of the notes of each.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, November, 1829.
Affection for you all, the officers of this ship of war, and for you, Captain Finch.
Great, indeed, is my gratitude to you for your excellent attention in conducting us thus far.
AND MADAM BOKT. 249
Very sincere, also, is my commendation of you all ; and of the well doing of your people toward us.
Now on account of my affection for you, as you are about to return to your own country, while we shall abide in our own land, with grateful re- membrance of you all, I give this testimony of my love to you, Captain Finch, and to the officers of this ship of war. My thoughts bless you. With sincerest love and joy,
KAUIKEAOULI.
Love to you all, our fellow-travellers on the ocean. You have kindly attended to us, on board your ship, until we have arrived at this part of our country. When you shall have restored us to our own places, then you will leave us en- tirely— we shall remain with the remembrance of our having travelled together with you all, and our affection for you will be mingled with sorrow.
LILIHA.
Liliha, "full fed" — by no means misapplied to judge from the appearance of her ladyship — you recollect, is the original name of Madam Boki. Mr. Bingham, during the voyage, furnished Cap- tain Finch with the interpretation of the names of all the chiefs, some of which 1 do not remember to have heard before. The most fanciful and most imposing are those of the king, princess, and ex-queen, Kekauruohe.
Kauikeaouli literally means, " To hang upon
M3
250 PRIVATE LETTER OF
the deep blue sky;" Nahienaena — the favourite appellation of the princess till the death of her mother, — " The raging or irreproachable fires;" and Kekauruohe, " The bamboo grove." Kaahu- manu, " The feather mantle;" Naihe, " The spears;" Hoapiri, " The inseparable friend"— from his attachment and companionship with Tamehameha the Great — and Kapiolani, " The celestial captive" or " Prisoner of Heaven" are already known to you.
The note from the king received in answer from Captain Finch, the following judicious and important private letter of advice.
TO KAUIKEAOULT, KING OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.
As I am about to depart from your islands, I feel it becoming on my part (and due to you,) to state, that I shall quit you with feelings of increased interest for your prosperity and advancement, in all matters of general and individual utility. And I avail myself of this occasion to make my acknowledgments for the hospitable reception which the Vincennes has enjoyed at each of the places under your jurisdiction, where she has touched.
I beg you to permit me to advert again to some topics upon which I have already addressed you formally, and which I deem of essential conse- quence to yourself and people — I mean those as to the desertion and the subsequent secretion of mariners from their vessels. I recollect that you
CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE KING. 251
have, in a general way, told me that you would try and prevent such abuses. My object is, to suggest some means in aid of those you may have adopted on these points.
It has been clearly shewn to you already, and you are so well convinced that your own good is involved in these practices, that I need not re- capitulate the arguments thereon which I have verbally used.
But I would suggest to you, in lieu of one of your regulations on these subjects, that it will be found more effectual, in the recovery of deserters and fugitives, if you will forbid the receipt of re- wards, as now asked by your common people, on the apprehension of such persons; and the as- sumption of the expenses by your governments, to be refunded to you alone, by the masters of vessels, on delivery of runaways.
As the common people are now in the expec- tation of obtaining rewards for services in these cases, it is believed to be a practice with them to entice sailors ashore, and to secrete them for a while, only to betray them ultimately when remu- neration is offered.
A regulation forbidding, also, your people, (under some penalty in money or produce,) from harbouring, or sheltering and feeding sailors, stray- ing idly in the country, for any time, without occasional obvious and useful employment, will also be beneficial.
1 would further recommend to you to forbid masters of vessels from discharging or permitting
252 PRIVATE LETTER OF
men to leave their vessels in your harbours. Should they persist in doing so, I would not allow supplies to be carried to them. If men are discharged, it ought to be with your knowledge and concurrence. I think masters of vessels will comply with your wishes in these respects, when distinctly communicated to them.
All sick sailors, left on shore, should be taken care of by the consuls, or owners, or agents of vessels to which they belong; and as soon as suf- ficiently recovered, ought to be returned to their respective vessels, or sent by the consuls or agents, in other conveyances, to their several countries, or entered on board such vessels as may want, or may accept their services.
The regent, Kaahumanu, once asked me, what a consul had to do here ? I will again answer, to take care of our general shipping interest ; that he has his orders from the government; that his duties are cautiously defined ; and he ought not to be interfered with, except by application or reference directly from yourself to the pre- sident.
In the enactment of all laws or regulations, I think it will be for your benefit and the good of all persons, if you will ask the advice and opinions of all the foreigners resident at the islands, in whom you have confidence. They will no doubt accord it. If they do not, then you should frame the best laws which your knowledge will enable you to do ; conforming, as far as possible, to what has always been the common law or usages of the
CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE KING. 253
land ; and if, on trial, you find them unsuited or oppressive, alter them to suit circumstances. Laws of some kind are necessary every where, particu- larly for your exterior relations ; the fewer and the more simple, the better ; and the sooner you set about making an attempt, the sooner, of course, you can perfect a system. Wise laws are the highest achievements of the human mind.
In the letter which I had the happiness to pre- sent to you on my first introduction, you have a distinct view of the feelings of my government to- wards you, and can easily comprehend the course of conduct on your part which will be most ac- ceptable to it ; and also the most reasonable, as well as permanently useful to both parties.
The government of the United States enter- tains the sincerest desire to preserve you in all your sovereign and local rights, so far as they may be infringed or openly violated by acts of its citizens; and in return, will only expect strict justice towards them, and a fair reciprocity in all transactions.
The general objects of a cruizing ship, or man- of-war, are the care and preservation of the lives and property of our citizens, where governments do not exist for that purpose, or where govern- ments are unmindful of their obligations.
If any wants or disaffection are expressed by our trading interest here, (in such communica- tions as the merchants may send by me,) they will meet the attention of my government; but I hope it will appear, that little cause of complaint ex-
254
PRIVATE LETTER OF
ists. Had any been foreseen or known, probably my orders might have had especial reference to the cases.
As a further method to confirm the attachment of my countrymen, which is useful to you, and to elevate yourself in your* own estimation, and place your government truly upon an indepen- dent basis, I must urge the perfect liquidation of your debts, at the period promised, and a care not to contract others. Unless free of debt, or with ability to discharge it, no nation takes its equal place among others.
Soon after I arrived, strangers pointed out to me two taverns — one as belonging to the king, and the other to Governor Boki. The impression made upon me by this information was unfavour- able to you both. Such establishments are ne- cessary in a port like Honolulu, but they ought to be conducted by private individuals. In the direct gains arising from them, you should not participate — nor ought you to frequent them. Very few should be allowed — and on such as are permitted, a high revenue or tax might be im- posed; by which means its resources will be in- creased, and the burden, at present resting on the industrious, will be lightened. The opportunity which has been afforded me, of becoming person- ally acquainted with you, (by your having been my guest on board ship for some time,) has, I am happy to say, conduced greatly to enlist my affec- tions for your personal credit and welfare ; and your advancement in the acquisition of our
CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE KING. 255
language and letters, persuades me to urge you to pursue English studies diligently. By a due division of your time between studies, business, and becoming pleasure?, your life will be rendered delighful to yourself and beneficial to those who by circumstances are placed under your protec- tion, and who must ultimately look up to you for example. You are yet young; now is the period to lay the foundation in your character for extensive usefulness. Ere long the cares of go- vernment must devolve on you alone. Kaahu- manu and your other friends are advanced in years, and must soon, in the course of nature, be taken from you.
The geographical situation of your inheritance is so peculiarly favourable, that no one can fore- see the degree of importance it is to attain; every year its additional consequence will be apparent to you ; therefore, I again repeat, acquire the English language. It will open to you an un- limited field of knowledge ; in the right use of which you may found a name more imperishable and enduring than the islands of Hawaii. I will only add one other recommendation, which is, the semi-annual or annual meeting of the great chiefs for the revision of your state affairs ; alter- nately, for convenience sake, at Honolulu and Lahaina.
All that I have said, you will, I think, receive in the spirit of kindness, and as coming from your friend, W, C. B. FINCH.
November 21, 1829.
256
JOINT LETTER OF
LETTER LXIV.
JOINT LETTER OF THE MISSIONARIES TO CAPTAIN FINCH, WITH HIS ANSWER.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, November 22d, 1829.
TO-MORROW, the 23d inst., was appointed im- mediately on our return from the Windward Islands, for the departure of the Vincennes for the Chinese Seas ; and among other evidences of the approaching close of our visit here, is a cor- respondence which has just taken place between the missionaries and Captain Finch. Of this I am permitted to furnish you with a copy.
TO W. C. B. FINCH, ESQUIRE, COMMANDER OF U. S. SHIP VINCENNES.
Hawaiian Islands, Nov. 14th, 1829. Dear Sir :
It was with no ordinary interest that we looked for the arrival of the Vincennes at these, but recently, heathen shores; and it is with no com- mon feeling that we now approach the period of the final departure of so welcome a visitor.
The polite and friendly attentions which you have generously shown to the members of our mission, during your visit at these islands, not only furnish us with an ample apology for the freedom we take in addressing you a line before your departure ; but also require of us some
THE MISSIONARIES. 257
united testimony of our gratitude for your kindness, and of the satisfaction which we have derived, both from the communications you have borne from your government, and the happy course you have pursued in your intercourse with the rulers of the country.
We have long been accustomed to take a very deep interest in whatever appears directly or indi- rectly to affect the welfare of the islanders. We have marked with fixed attention the influence of public vessels of various characters visiting the islands, and of public agents residing among the people. We have seen and wept over the evils that have prevailed in this dark and uninviting region ; and while toiling, as it were, in the sweat and dust of a field of battle, for which we ex- changed a pleasant home, we have witnessed a laudable effort on the part of the rulers to rise and free themselves, our hearts have been made to bleed afresh, to see them misled by interested counsel, injured and insulted by reproach and outrage, and wrongfully opposed and oppressed.
We have rejoiced, too, with them in every evidence of the improvement of their character and condition, and in every indication of their future prosperity ; and always hail with gladness the voice of friendship and of wholesome counsel, even from far countries. As such the communi- cation from the secretary of the navy, which you have had the honour to bear, and to commu- nicate to the king and chiefs, is to us pecu- liarly cheering. The marks of friendship and
258 JOINT LETTER OF
wisdom, which that interesting document bears, and the importance of its principles, coming as it does from the highest authority of a great and friendly nation, which the people are accustomed to respect, cannot fail to secure for it a kind re- ception, a studied regard, and a grateful con- sideration from the young king and his more enlightened counsellors. It would not be strange should it mark one of the happiest eras in the history of this rising nation, however boldly it may be said by some, that the people are not yet prepared for such high-toned advice ; and by others, that some other channel would have been preferable.
Are not the people, indeed, prepared for such expressions of friendship and good-will as the president has been pleased to make to them ? Are they not prepared to have their just rights acknowledged by so high a power as America? Are not the rulers here prepared to be encouraged to adopt salutary regulation for the promotion of order, justice, and peace, in their own undisputed territories ? If we admit, for a moment, that they are not yet prepared to act with decision and discretion on all the points recommended for their consideration, what better means could have been devised than that communication from our government, to raise them to the very condition to which that letter supposes them to have ad- vanced? But we have good reason to believe that they are prepared for just such high-toned advice ; such professions of friendship ; such ac-
THE MISSIONARIES. 259
knowledgments of rights ; such congratulations for the rising prosperity of the people ; and such just reprehensions of every wanton abuse of their rights, or violation of law and justice by foreign residents, as that well advised letter contains. We therefore heartily rejoice that the young king and his counsellors have, from so high and re- spectable a source, received such encouragement to take the dignified stand they ought to take, and which they are able to take among nations ; such encouragement to go forward in promoting learning and virtue, giving protection and aid to every lawful and laudable pursuit, and of be- coming in fact what rulers ought to be, " a terror to evil doers, and a praise to them that do well."
If, then, the rulers of the people follow (as we hope they will) the important suggestions from the government of the United States, and adhere to the spirit of that communication, who in all the world will have a face to complain ?
That important document, so well devised, so opportunely delivered, so happily supported by the kind and courteous attentions of yourself and your officers, and the judicious counsel you have been pleased repeatedly to give the king and chiefs, both in writing and in various conversations, will, we feel assured, prove in a high degree salutary, and tend greatly t > encourage them to pursue a more correct and dignified course in the manage- ment of their affairs; inspire them with a higher respect for themselves (a grand principle of ho- nourable conduct) ; shield them from wanton
260
JOINT LETTER OF
abuse ; secure protection for lawful trade ; in- crease the confidence of the people as to the value of civilization and Christianity, and proportion- ably their attachment to those who have taken up their residence among them, and are wearing out their lives, to teach them letters and " the religion of the Christian's bible," and to lead them to the enjoyments of civilized life and society, and all the blessings of salvation.
It will be among the most precious recollections in your review of life, should you find that the visit of the Vincennes to the Island of Hawaii had materially contributed to these objects.
Whether any thing has been gained in reference to the improvement of the people during the ten years since our mission was sent forth, you, sir, who have now visited four of our stations on the three principal islands of the group, are able to judge.
That you may have some means of forming a correct opinion, besides your own observations in a single visit, you will permit us to refer to a few facts with which you are acquainted, in reference to the subject.
In the year 1820, the people might justly have been denominated a nation of drunkards and gam- blers, without letters, without morals, without re- ligion, and without hope; their intercourse de- based, their minds stupified, their evil habits deep- rooted, forbidding almost utterly any attempt or hope of amendment.
Now no nation probably is more temperate or
THE MISSIONARIES. 261
less addicted to gambling : their language has been reduced to writing ; morals have been improved, and the Christian religion established on a firm basis; old and deep-rooted habits of evil have be n, in thousands of instances, broken up ; social intercourse improved; hope inspired; and, appa- rently, national enjoyment extensively promoted.
Industry has been encouraged ; commerce has been increased about 500 per cent. ; schools have been everywhere established, and about 30,000 * of the inhabitants, perhaps more, brought under instruction ; about 5001' pages of different matter have been prepared for the press, in the language of the country, including more than half the New Testament, and 100 Hymns. The whole print- ed and published in various forms by our press, amounting to about 7,000,000 J pages.
The slate, the pen, and the needle, have in many instances been substituted for the surf- board, the bottle, and the hula (native dance) ; domestic peace for family broils, order for confusion, and decent clothing of foreign manufacture for loathsome filth and nakedness. But your own observations, after all, will be the most satisfactory to yourself and your friends ; and we hope you may yet have ano- ther opportunity to renew them, under still more favourable circumstances.
Before we take our leave of you, sir, we must beg the favour that on your return to our happy country, whose honour and prosperity are still dear to our hearts, you will make known to the
* Now 50,000. f Now 800. t Now 13,632,800.
262
JOINT LETTER OF
government the high sense of obligation which we feel for the very friendly and favourable notice which it has been pleased to take of us -as Ame- rican citizens, and of the objects for which we left the land of exalted privileges which gave us birth. To the officers of the Vincennes whom we have had the happiness to know, and from whom we have received many kind civilities and acceptable favours, you will allow us to tender, through you, our grateful acknowledgments.
To yourself, dear sir, we present our cordial salutations, with the assurance that we shall long cherish with gratitude the recollection of your in- teresting visit, your studied and persevering kind- ness and attention to us in our humble and toil- some station.
Wishing you all prosperity and happiness in this world, and the blessings of that eternal life for which we hope, in the world to come, we bid you farewell ; and subscribe ourselves, With highest esteem, Very affectionately,
Your , (Signed) H. BINGHAM,
WAI. RICHARDS, LORRIN ANDREWS, ARTEMAS BISHOP, EPHRAIAI W. CLARK, STEPHEN FHEPHARD
P.S. Dear Sir : I feel no hesitancy in assuring you that the members of the mission who are absent would, if present, gladly subscribe the
THE MISSIONARIES. 263
above : you will allow me, therefore, to repeat my own salutations, and the salutations of the joint subscribers, in the name of our association, viz.
A. THURSTON, J. GOODRICH, J. S. GREEN, L. CHAMBERLAIN,
G. P. JUDD, S. RUGGLES,
P. J. GULIC, S. WHITNEY.
I am, clear sir, with the warm feelings of gra- titude and personal regard,
Your friend, (Signed) H. BINGHAM.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Honolulu, Nov. 22d, 1829. Gentlemen :
Your agreeable letter, dated on the 14th inst., was placed in my hands yesterday. Its in- teresting character deserves, but pressing arrange- ments .preparatory to my departure in the morn- ing preclude, so full an answer as I could desire. I rely upon my deportment towards you all, as the best evidence I can give of my respect for your pursuits; and I feel safe in saying also, that whatever kindness you may have recehed from the officers, is the effect of their own high sense of propriety and your merits. I will, at your request, make them a quainted with the tenour of your communication „ and probably
264 ANSWER OF CAPTAIN FINCH.
may submit it to their perusal; and I shall feel happy in being the organ of conveying the sense of obligation which you profess to owe my go- vernment.
For your individual happiness, gentlenen, and the comfort, security, and well-doing of your fa- milies, accept my very earnest and friendly wishes.
I am, respectfully,
Yours, &c. &c. &c.
W C. B. FINCH. The Rev. Messrs. BINGHAM, RICHARDS, BISHOP, &c. &c.
LETTER LXV.
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU, AND LETTER OF THE KING
TO THE PRESIDENT. U. S. Ship Vincennes, at sea, Nov. 24th, 1829.
At the request of the king, who wished to write a letter by Captain Finch to the President, the Vincennes remained at Honolulu one clay longer than the time originally fixed for sailing. This morning, however, immediately after breakfast, we left the harbour and remained outside the reef, till his majesty's communication should be sent off.
At twelve o'clock, the boat of the private secre- tary was reported alongside; and, as soon as he had delivered the dispatches, we filled away with a salute, before so fresh a breeze, that as the
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU. 265
evening just now closed round us, the faintest outline of Oahu behind, and of Tauai forty or fifty miles on our right, could scarcely be dis- cerned in the haze of the distance.
Thus, my dear H , I have a second time
bidden a supposed final adieu to the Sandwich Islands : but now, through the kindness of God, under auspices far more happy than on the pre- vious occasion. Then every imagination of the future, equally with every remembrance of the past, was shrouded in gloom ; and fearful appre- hensions of sorrows just at hand, whose depth can only be told by those who have experienced them, gave double poignancy to thoughts and feelings of deep interest and affection lingering on things, and scenes, and friends behind. But now, while warm love for many a justly endeared object, and the liveliest interests in the glorious work of blessing and salvation there triumphant- ly achieving, filled my eyes with tears and my heart with prayer, as the beautiful island receded rapidly from our gaze, no existing circumstances denied me a full participation in the bright looks and joyous anticipations of my companions, who felt that after an absence of more than three years, their faces were now fully set towards all most dear in country, family, and friends ; and as we crowded sail upon sail, till we exhibited a mountain of canvass widely bellying to the wind, the language of every heart and every eye, from the quarter-deck to the forecastle, was " Home, sweet, sweet home."
VOL. II. N
266 LETTER I ROM THE KING
On opening the packet of the king, the fol- lowing translation of the document addressed by him to the president was found. Both the original and translation are in his own hand-writing.
TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF
AMERICA Island of Hawaii, November 23d, 1829.
Best affection to you, the chief magistrate of America. This is my sentiment for you ; I have joy and gratitude towards you on account of your kind regard for me. I now know the excellence of your communicating to me that which is right and true. I approve with admiration the justness and faultlessness of your word.
I now believe that your thoughts and ours are alike, both those countries and these countries, and all large countries. We are the children — the little islands far off in this tropical climate.
We have recently had an interview with Cap- tain Finch, with joyfulness and with sentiments of kindness and pleasure towards him. I do now hope there will be a perfect agreement between you and us, as to the rights and duties of both of our governments, that the peace now subsisting between us may be perpetual; that the seat of our prosperity may be broad, and our union of heart in things that are right such, that the high- ways of the ocean may not diverge, because there is a oneness of sentiment in our hearts with those distant countries, these islands, and all lands.
May our abiding by justice triumphantlyprevail,
TO THE PRESIDENT. 267
i 11 i I.* , ilO.
that all who come hither may be correct in deportment, and all who go thither from this country.
This is my desire, that you and we may be of the same mind. Such, too, is my hope that we may pursue the same course, that we may flourish, and that true prosperity may rest perpetually on all the nations of the world in which we dwell.
Look ye on us with charity ; we have formerly been extremely dark-minded, and ignorant of the usages of enlightened countries. You are the source of intelligence and light. This is the origin of our minds being a little enlightened — the arrival here of the word of God. This is the foundation of a little mental improvement which we have recently made, that we come to know a little of what is right, and of the customs of civi- lized nations. On this account do we greatly rejoice at the present time.
I give you thanks, too, for your bestowing kindly on me the globes and the map of your coun- try, to be a means of mental improvement for me; and also for your other presents to my friends, who rejoice with me in the reception of the fa- vours which you have granted them.
Long life to you in this world, and lasting blessedness to you and us in the world to come. (Signed) KAUIKEAOULI TAMEHAMEHA III.
N 2
268 REMONSTRANCE OF
LETTER LXVI.
RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF THE VISIT AT TH G SAND- WICH ISLANDS, BY CAPTAIN FINCH.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, at sea, November 30th, 1829.
EARLY after the arrival of our ship at Oahu, it became evident that the policy and course of conduct pursued by Captain Finch was any thing but agreeable to a majority of the foreign resi- dents. Even before its public delivery, the letter of the secretary of the navy, addressed by the au- thority of the president to the king, was denounced by those made acquainted with its contents, as " a most pernicious document;" and it was soon inti- mated, that a remonstrance of the principal Ame- rican citizens, in reference to it, would be re- turned to the government, through the secre- tary of state, by the Vincennes.
Such a document is on board. I have not seen it; but common report made me acquainted with its character before leaving Honolulu. It con- sists of a protest against the channel through which the president thought proper to commu- nicate with the king — the secretary of the navy — rather than the secretary of state ; of a denial of any right in the secretary to inform his majesty, that the religion of the " CHRISTIAN'S BIBLE " is the true religion ; or to recommend the mis-
AMERICAN MERCHANTS. 269
sionaries, as American citizens, to his kindness and protection; of a declaration, that any charge of ill- conduct, in any American citizen at the islands, is false ; in an avowal, that, even if such were not the case, the government of the United States have no cognizance of offences committed by its citizens beyond the limits of its jurisdic- tion; and in a remonstrance against the pro- priety of introducing my name in a governmental paper !
I am spared the necessity, however, my dear
H , not only of any comments of my own on
this subject, but also of any summary remarks on the state of the mission and of the island, by a " Retrospective View " of our visit, written by Captain Finch, with a copy of which I am furnished. Any one acquainted with the intel- ligence and acuteness of observation which cha- racterizes his mind, with the candour of his judg- ment, and the integrity of his principles, will at once accord an approval to the justness of his stric- tures and the correctness of his views; and, with this article, I cheerfully close my account of the present condition of the Sandwich Islands.
A RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF THE VISIT TO THE SANDWICH, OR HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.
AFTER an absence of nearly three years from home, on service upon the western coasts of South America, I felt as if on the certain eve of return- ing thither,, as did the ship's company, whose
270 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
terms of engagement had expired."" The orders to proceed on an extended cruise were therefore unexpected and most unwelcome. In addition to disappointed hopes, I was little prepared, and far from being desirous of visiting islanders, whose moral character was undergoing change, and whose primitive traits were fast disappearing ; whether for the better was a problem which I supposed a cursory glance and short survey would not enable me to determine. Again, I felt reluctance to be placed in circumstances which I foresaw might involve me, as a party, in the va- rious conflicting accounts which had been given to my government and the public in regard to these people, and was afraid that irregularities amongst our trading or whaling vessels, and col- lision with the natives, might invite my inter- ference, which, if exerted, yet probably would fall short of the exigencies of the demands. Added to these considerations, I had heard of the hostility which was entertained by almost all foreigners resident at those places where teachers of the gospel, or misssonaries, had established themselves. I promised myself on the whole, neither gratification nor usefulness, and therefore undertook the voyage with real regret; but now that it is gotten through with, I feel relieved and look back rather with surprise that I engaged in it with apathy, or that I anticipated difficulties
* A portion of the crew returned in the frigate Brandywim;, the residue re-entered for a twelvemonth, and the deficiency was made up by volunteers from the frigate.
BY CAPTAIN FINCH. 271
and a distaste, which I have not, to the extent ap- prehended, realized.
My visit has been performed without any occur- rence other than of a pleasurable kind attending it : my interposition when called for has been mildly exercised and availing — the objects of our government, I hope, answered — and ;he good effects, I fear not, will be understood by any com- mander who may, hereafter, perform the like routine of duty. My reports collectively to the government will exhibit what I have done, as well as furnish my opinion on many points, and show the unavoidable (and supposed) defective- ness of the orders and laws under which I had to act. These are lucidly pointed out by my pre- decessor, Captain Jones, of the Peacock.
The very advanced stage of the people of the Sandwich Islands in the points involving civiliza- tion, religion, and learning, is so well established, so generally known and admitted, that I forbore to give statements of them equally minute with th.se I had made respecting Nukuhiva, Tahiti, and Raiatea. Their civilities, letters of corres- pondence, and transaction of business with me, place them in a just light, and will enable 6ur government to appreciate and judge them pro- perly, without my saying a word in their favour beyond the simple declaration that they are much in advance of the Society Islanders, cheeringly and agreeably enlightened, acquainted lirnitedly with their own interests, capable of extending them, and sensible of the value of character as a
272 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
nation. Their indolence of habit and amiability of disposition mislead the judgment of persons, who deny their pretensions to intelligence and capacity for self- management or government; the first being overcome, and their knowledge fully aroused to the advantages which their locality affords, the latter objection will manifest itself to be erroneous. To aid in every way to elevate and instruct them, and increase their self-pride and confidence, ought to be a source of pleasure, as well as the policy of those foreigners who are amongst them ; but such I am satisfied is neither the design nor practice of those persons ; they pursue, on the contrary, a short-sighted course, watchful of their own immediate gains or advan- tages, apparently regardless and thoughtless of those who are to succeed them, and whose secu- rity, comfort, and prosperity, may be increased or diminished by the judicious or unwise plans they at present or may hereafter adopt. The gentle- men now at the Sandwich Islands forget that the natives are not the same naked, uninstructed crea- tures which they were when they first went among them, and in this forgetfulness, intentional or not it is immaterial, treat them almost precisely as they did formerly, and contemn their pretensions to knowledge and improved condition.* Human nature cannot, nor will the chiefs much longer
* Probably exception may be fairly made to some persons of the class of foreigners.
BY CAPTAIN FINCH. 273
bear or tolerate such arrogance and injustice.* The more the respectability and importance of the chiefs and people are increased by voluntary and generous attentions from foreigners, the greater will be the security ensured to themselves. Why will they continue to enjoy the hospitality of the natives, contract engagements to large amounts with them, with full reliance upon their integrity, and yet treat them in a contumelious manner, or with indifference? such is neverthe- less the inconsistency I observed.
I am at a loss to decide wherein the foreign re- sidents have just cause to complain of, or to con- temn the government of the Sandwich Islands; they affect to believe that all its measures are dic- tated by the missionaries. I really do not think so : they doubtless in their station, as teachers, have influence ; but I rather believe it is confined as closely as is practicable or possible to that rela- tion and no other. Unless it was perceived by them that the government was about committing an act of indiscretion or gross blunder, I doubt if their voice would be heard. It is a most lament- able fact, that the dislike of the missionaries by the foreign residents has a tendency, as yet, to paralyze the efforts which the natives are so laudably making to render themselves worthy of
1
* If personal profits in a sphere for general competition or ope- rations are to be regarded as exclusive objects, then probably the original condition of the natives was more favourable formerly than now : I hope that I shall not be viewed as disposed to trammel laudable commercial enterprize. N 3
274
RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
the support and confidence of enlightened Chris- tians and distant nations; and this one circum- stance will render, for some time to come, the visits by our ships disagreeable to the officers who have to make them. The constant complaining against the missionaries is irksome in the extreme, and in such contrast with the conduct of the mis- sionaries themselves, that I could not but remark their circumspection and reserve with admira- tion : the latter never obtruded upon my atten- tion the grounds or causes they might have to complain of; nor did they advert to the opposi- tion they experienced, unless expressly invited thereto by rne.
If the understandings of the natives are im posed upon by the religious injunctions of the missionaries, the evil will ultimately correct itself by the very tuition which they afford the inhabi- tants, more certainly and effectually than by the denunciation and declamation of foreigners, who are interested and temporary sojourners, without other than monied transac ions to engage the confidence of the natives,* whereas the mission- aries have adventured their families among them, and stand pledged as to the issue of their under- taking before, not only the American public, but the world at large.
* The missionaries possibly are too rigidly literal in their inter- pretation and enforcement of the commandments; and an error may arise from this source in the formation of provisions for police or other regulations by the native government, and in their subse- quent iidminisitriition and fulfilment.
:BY CAPTAIN FINCH* 275
Opposition similar to that now existing against the present missionaries would, doubtless, extend to like persons of any other denomination. All of our countrymen do not think alike on the spe- cial subject of religion, and in which our govern- ment (very wisely and happily) does not inter- fere; but all those who visit the islands in the Pacific for trade, will feel (and rightly too), that such order grows out of the establishment of Christianity, in whatever form introduced, as to preclude undue advantages, ensure personal secu- rity, and place the islander on a footing of equa- lity with his fellow man. Why it is supposed necessary to retain the Sandwich Islanders in a state of deeper vassalage and subjection to our avarice and caprices than those of inferior caste to ourselves at home, I am at a loss to determine. If the islanders are weary of the instruction they receive, or the restraints imposed in receiving it, they have tongues to speak and hands to use; and judging by the unrestrained life they have heretofore led, it is but fair to infer that they would speak and act if causes existed for their doing so. Whilst they court knowledge why should they be ridiculed in the search of it ? Can it be shown that they have misapplied to the in- jury of others the limited acquirements which they do possess : on the contrary, is it not certain that intercourse with some of them has been rendered more easy, and confidence increased, by this very circumstance? Are they not truly their own mas- ters, on the principle of birth, soil, and action?
276 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
Wherein the right of our nerchants then to in- terfere with them, wherein that of the missiona- ries ? but by the best of all rights, their own invi- tntions;* the missionaries and families are also probably more than twice as numerous as the mercantile class. If not satisfied, let merchants withdraw themselves ; refreshments, &c. can still be had without their agency as heretofore, by the masters of such vessels as may frequent the islands. I would ask if our countrymen arrogate any thing to themselves other than what the laws allow at Hayti ? Do they ever openly reflect upon that government? Why will they act differently, re- quire or expect more, at the Hawaiian Islands ?
So great was the friendship and correctness of deportment of the chief islanders, that I could scarcely suppose myself to be among a people once and so recently heathen. Variance of language and complexion alone reminded me of it. These views may very widely vary from the opinions of those who have preceded me only a year or two ; I can well believe that we do not keep pace (by means of our intercourse) with their improve- ments. Intervals of three years make wonderful changes, and for the better; careful and recorded observations only will assure us of the reality of them. The present king, as he advances in years,
* It has been remarked to me that Christianity was established, or rather idolatry subverted, before the arrival of missionaries — granted : has not the arrival of these persons confirmed these measures, and strengthened the natives in their previous convic- tions ?
13 Y CAPTAIN FINCH, 277
will, I feel pretty well persuaded, be a blessing to his people ; his usefulness will, however, depend in a great measure upon the choice which he may make in a companion of his power, and the cares inseparable: a doubt and difficulty rests upon this, interesting point, which cannot too early be removed.
By the diffusion of knowledge among the islanders at large, I can readily suppose that the influence of the resident whites, and the abject and slavish adulation and distinction heretofore paid to them, have been diminished in some degree :* will not this circumstance, to a limited extent, serve to explain the sourness and bitter- ness which the whites cherish, and on many occa- sions display, towards the chiefs as well as the missionaries ? Suppose that undue power is ex- ercised by either residents, merchants, or missiona- ries, over the government of the Sandwich Islands, from which source will either the greatest good or least evil ensue ? I certainly think from the mis- sionaries.
It is seriously to be regretted that the Mis- sionary Society, or some liberal-minded and gene- rous gentleman of wealth, does not establish and maintain at the Sandwich Islands, on an ade- quate salary, a person of independence of cha- racter, and suitable attainments, separate from clerical avocations, merely as an adviser of the
* A like consequence will eventually ensue to the chiefs, though I think their positions and prerogatives will never be in- fringed.
273
RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
chiefs, on the principles of government, jurispru- dence, &c &c.,* or, if our government would appoint salaried Consuls, or a Charge d' Affaires to the islands, respectively restricting them from all participation in business, the desired object might be obtained; but whilst such official per- sonages are still merchants, their influence is com- paratively small or nothing with the government; but their own and their patron's interest neces- sarily engrossing subjects.
The various communications which I bear to my government will, I trust, awaken its more pointed attention to these islands, and to the Americans who reside in them. The protest of the merchants and traders to the principles con- tained in the public letter which I delivered will claim notice; it was prepared during my short absence to Hawaii ; but in my letter of the 22d November, I had anticipated its point.? I feel constrained to utter this opinion, that its argu- ments are unsound, its language unbecoming and
* It would be beneficial also if the means of subsistence for missionaries were augmented ; which when done will enable them, both as to personal and in general respects, to appear to more advantage than they can at present, without any departure from proper sanctity of character. They ought, if possible, to be rendered entirely independent of the natives or government, until both become more fully sensible of the value of the time, study, and attention which, as teachers, they bestow in their incalculably important functions.
f Although the letter of protest is dated Nov. 10, I did not receive it until the 23d Nov. subsequent to my communication to the secretary of the navy, advising him of my proceedings and intended further movements.
BY CAPTAIN FINCH.
hasty, its inferences unfounded, and its implica- tions ungenerous, and in every respect injudicious. In the same breath, they, the signers, deny the jurisdiction of our government, and yet invoke protection — taunt one department with igno- rance ; defend the conduct of all classes of per- sons who have visited the islands ; fit a cap to their own head, which probably was not intended for them : speak insultingly of, and denounce mis- sionaries; unnecessarily allude to the Rev. Mr. Stewart, and insinuate that the Vincennes has done nothing but aid in the saddling a religion on "ignorant and unsuspecting" islanders; unmind- ful of letters of thanks previously tendered to me for services affecting their pockets !
Is it not meant by establishing a consulate, that it shall receive the control over our citizens within its reach, which the government of the United States indisputably would exercise, if these citizens had remained at home. A public func- tionary openly declares and insists that his own government has no control over acts committed at the Sandwich Islands ! Can our laws have been framed so blindly, or is this construction to be ascribed to the desires or sinister counsels of others ? The signers' " powerful reasons" for fearing for their " lives and property" are not set forth, and therefore I think can only be creatures of their own minds, unaided by facts; ;~ the letter, I conceive, puts no more power into the hands of
* If, as they say, the chiefs have been made fully to understand the letters, then it follows that security must result to every body.
280 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
the natives than belongs to them, or than they always wielded ; there can be no good reasons of objection to a letter coming from the head of any department, if the president chooses to give such direction to it. I cannot perceive that the letter advocates any particular sect in religion ; nor are the petitioners required or called upon to recog- nize or follow the religion of the islanders now, more than they were when idolatry existed. In the nature of things, it is impossible that the peti- tioners can assume a responsibility for the acts or conduct of all citizens who have visited the islands, or that they can undertake to establish the po- sition that there never has been violations of the laws, or interference with the government of the islands.* Surely the right on the part of our government to enquire into the conduct of its own citizens, sojourning temporarily abroad, was never until now contested ; and as to the propriety of the government letter adverting to the appoint- ment of Mr. Stewart, I humbly conceive that the government was quite as well qualified to judge, as the petitioners or protestors.
Lest any thing which I have said may be con- strued as unduly favouring the missionaries, I take this occasion to remark, that I am not of their par- ticular church, but am a Protestant Episcopalian ; so that I am under no bias on that score.-)-
* Probably these matters come not within the scope of the gen- tlemen's notice, or were not thought of before.
f There can be no doubt that an American interest and influ- ence is insensibly produced by benefits derived from the mission- aries as American citizens.
BY CAPTAIN FINCH. 281
I have in my reports expressed an interest for Nukuhiva, and given it a decided preference in point of locality over the Society Islands. I am confirmed in this predilection ; and more than ever convinced that it is a most eligible place for our commerce, and that it will become, and de- serves to be, the rival of Oahu. The natural tact and vivacity of the Nukuhivans are more remark- able, and superior to that of the Sandwich Island- ers. The situation of the former, unless commu- nication is had eventually over the isthmus, is far better than that of these people, for the advan- tages of trade by way of Cape Horn ,* and I ear- nestly hope, that the present inviting and propi- tious moment will be embraced to confer benefits on the Nukuhivans, and secure commercial advan- tages to ourselves.
The novel and informal way in which property in vessels is transferred at Oahu, from one indivi- dual to another individual, each of different na- tions, and the license and latitude under which they navigate, deserve to be looked to. Those which go to the coast of Mexico and North-west Coast, complain of the treatment by the autho- rities— I cannot say how justly ; but suspect ther£ is in this, as in almost all other cases, two sides to the same story. I rather think that some of the island commerce carried on by foreigners, if met with at sea by a regular cruizer, would prove a fair prize, by reason of a want of, or imperfect papers, &c. It is quite common to see vessels at the Sandwich Islands without names on their
282 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW.
sterns, with altered names, every medley of crew, and other circumstances unusual else- where.
The various complaints which were made to me at Oahu, induce me to suppose that great irre- gularities often prevail in the prosecution of this distant commerce ; the severities which are some- times practised towards crews is doubtless illegal — more harsh than in the navy, and in most in- stances inconsiderate ; but on the other hand, the ill temper and recklessness of character which is often manifested by the sailors, unquestionably call for coercion and restraints of some nature; how these can be wisely delegated is the desirable point. The ambiguity and evasion used in ship- ping crews are the chief evils to be removed. This is the incipient stage of all the dissentions and difficulties which ultimately arise, 'and most generally exist during the whole space of a voy- age. On these matters Captain Jones of the Pea- cock has already spoken most fully.
Of the value of property owned by American merchants at Oahu, or of that entrusted to their care and safe keeping, and in depot, I can form no certain opinion ; but infer from appearances, and the activity with which transfers or sales are effected, that it does not at any given pe- riod exceed eighty or one hundred thousand dollars.
In these remarks or review, I have abstained from giving any traditional or historical notices of the islands, their natural appearances, produc-
DEATH AND BURIAL AT SEA. 283
tions, or population, &c., all of which can be de- rived from numerous published accounts. Respectfully submitted.
W. C. B. FINCH.
The Honourable the Secretary of the Navy, Washington.
i 89 mh -ar 3>nin iii * —
»d ; LETTER LXVIL
INCIDENTS AT SEA.
^IdenoiJ ^o
Death and Burial at Sea. — Crew of the Vincennes.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, at sea, Dec. llth, 1829.
t THE first incident, dear H - , worthy of notice
since we left the Sandwich Islands, is one of sad- ness and of death. The most youthful and most healthful of our quarter-masters expired in great agony this morning, after a few hours only of se- rious illness.
The sudden death of such men is always accom- panied to me with a shock from which I cannot at once recover. Sinful, and confident of life, they entertain no fear or thought of death, till they find themselves in his terrific and paralyzing grasp! — Every power withers at his touch ; the body sinks into helplessness and decay, while the spirit — ah ! the immortal spirit, ascends to God only to hear, if his Word be true, the awful sentence of justice and holiness proceeding from his throne, against every guilty and impenitent sinner, " Depart from
284- DEATH AND
me, ye accursed!" In view of such a destiny, well may we exclaim, " O, that men were wise, that they understood this, that they would consider their latter end !"
How different the death of the righteous man —
" No horror pales his lip, or rolls his eye,
No dreadful doubts, or dreamy terrors start The hope religion pillows on his heart. When, with a dying hand, he waves adieu To all who love so well, and weep so true, Calm — as an infant to the mother's breast, Turns fondly longing for its wonted rest, He pants to be where kindred spirits stay, Turns to his God, and sighs his soul away!"
With the bier of a shipmate, who but yesterday moved among us in all the vigour of health and manhood, in our view, the day has been one, as may be supposed, of more than ordinary quiet and soberness. The weather too has been of a cha- racter to add to the general listlessness and de- pression : an almost entire calm — the sails flapping uselessly against the masts, and every thing glar- ing in the burning heat of a tropical sun.
Just after sunset, the boatswain's call summoned us to the deck, to perform the last service of fel- lowship for poor . The hour was well suited
to the melancholy duty ; the shades of the night had began to fall around us; the vessel scarcely moved upon the water; the sea was smooth as a lake ; and not a sound was to be heard, except the echoing of the last footsteps gathering round the gang-board at the ship's side, on which the corpse
BURIAL AT SEA. 285
was poised, ready to be launched below at the ap- pointed signal.
After such introductory portions of the Burial Service as I thought appropriate to the funeral rite of one, for whom I fear — melancholy as the apprehension is — that there will be no " resurrec- tion of life" I gave one word of admonition and exhortation — a word to which, under the circum- stances, no ear could be stopped; and to the power of which, it is to be hoped, that every heart, for the moment at least, was open; — and then came the slide and dull plunge of the body, which committed it to the bosom of the Pacific — a grave more wide and more deep than even a sailor often finds. The scene was one which all appeared to feel, and one which, I pray, none of those witness- ing it may entirely forget.
The circumstance led to a conversation the most interesting, as regards the character and strength of feeling excited by it, I have yet known on board the Vincennes — with Mr. Hoyt, a young gentle- man who joined our ship from the merchant ser- vice at Oahu, to secure a passage to the United States, and who has had assigned to him the duty of a sailing-master's mate. The correct- ness and dignity of his general deportment early secured my good opinion ; and the little direct intercourse that, till now, had taken place between us, had confirmed every kind feeling in his favour. We met this morning, in a mood of mind in- duced by the sight of the corpse, which neither of
_
286 CREW OF THE VINCENNES.
us felt disposed to conceal from the other, and which led to one of those conversations of undis- guised feeling, which win the heart more fully than years of common-place civility.
He appears to be one of the few " sons of the ocean," whose character and principles in all points are such as to command the respect of those with whom they are associated, and to whom the most pure in morals and the most refined in sen- timent need not fear to extend their companion- ship and affection. The principles, habits, gene- rous feelings, and pious disposition of such men, more effectually secure the warmth of my heart than the highest attainments of mind, fascination of manners, and attraction of rank, where they are not to be found. I delight to shew and prove myself the friend of such : and new interest is given to our homeward voyage by the discovery, that there is at least one on board, beyond my im- mediate mess-table, who is disposed to cultivate my friendship in connexion with the spirit and immediate duties of my office.
As to the crew iri general, I have never been brought in contact with any set of men apparently so hopeless in morals, and so beyond the influence of every good impression. A small portion of them only were shipped in the United States ; the rest have been gathered principally from the South American coast — wanderers upon the earth, with- out a country or a home. I have long felt great discouragement, as to any decisive benefit to them
GAT UK RING OF A STORM. 287
from the discharge of the services of my station ; still I shall be enabled, on this point, I trust, to act upon the principle, that,
" Our doubts are traitors,
And often make us lose the good we else might win, By fearing to attempt."
LETTER LXVIII.
ARRIVAL IN THE CHINESE SEA.
Gathering1 of a storm. — Christmas-eve at sea.— Ladrone and Bashee Islands.
U. S Ship Vincennes, at sea, Dec. 30th, 1829.
THE early part of our voyage from Oahu was most uninteresting, characterized chiefly by light and variable winds, an excess of heat, and slow progress, and but for the blandness and serenity of nights bright
" With stars unnumbered, And a moon exceeding beautiful,"
and the irresistibly soothing associations connected with their loveliness both on land and at sea, we should all have become a prey to ennui and the wal du pays.
On the evening of the 24th, however, we were relieved from the listlessness of the preceding month by the sudden rising of a storm, which came raging upon us just before night, with the
288 CflR:STMAS-EV7E AT SEA.
fury of a tempest. In less than an hour, in place of a clear blue sky and a dead calm, a scud " thick and palpable" almost as the darkness of Egypt, was rushing over us before a driving wind. A streak of lurid and unnatural light along the western horizon was alone to be seen ; while the sky was every where filled with wild and rag- ged clouds, moving swiftly in various directions, portending some fearful exhibition of their vio- lence. The sea, too, suddenly rose high, foaming and roaring, and dashing on board our ship as she plunged and rolled in its irregular and broken swells. Add to this, the bustle of two hundred men in preparation for the worst that might come, the rushing of the wind through the masts and rigging, the bawling of the brazen- mouthed trumpet, the answers and calls from aloft coming faintly and indistinctly on the ear, as those utter- ing them were swept widely and swiftly through the air in the uneasiness of the vessel under the pressure of the blast ; the flapping and cracking of the sails in reefing, the flying of hats and handkerchiefs overboard, and you will have a total of circumstances as appropriate to a Christ- mas-eve at sea, as the snow-storm, keen tempera- ture, and blustering north-west wind, are to the same season in Otsego But ah ! for us there was no blazing hearth Lor cheerful fire-side; no closely curtained parlour, nor happy family circle to join after having gazed on the sublimity and wildness without, till dripping with the peltings of the storm ; but a wet and gloomy ship, a gun-room,
LADRON7E AND BASHKE INLANDS. 289
with groaning timbers and bulk-heads, and lights flickering in the wind till their highest service was to make darkness visible ; chairs, tables, boxes, and books, fetching away and driving across the deck at every roll, with an occasional crash and jingle in the steward's pantry, as if all his bottles and crockery had gone en masse ; and last, though not least, an uncomfortable berth, in which it was impossible to lie still enough to sleep, but to which it was necessary to cling till morning, while every wave, sweeping in its fury along the ship's side, muttered its threat so closely and so loudly in the ear, that if from weariness one should fall into a doze, he could scarce fail of being roused from it the next moment, by dreaming of being drowned. Such was the night, and such the morning; and ever since we have had a continuance of wea- ther in some degree similar.
On the evening of the 19th inst. we passed the most northern of the Ladrone Islands, between Pagon and Agrigan, at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles : both lofty islands, the last so much so, as frequently to be seen at a distance of sixty miles. It was near night when we descried them, and nothing but a dim outline was to be seen against the sky.
Yesterday morning we left another landmark in the northern Bashee Islands behind us. These are considered one of the barriers of the " Mer la Grande" as the French very properly style the Pacific, and one of the portals of the " Celestial Empire" a principal city of which we expect
VOL. II. O
290 UNHAPPY ACCIDENT.
soon to visit. Five of the cluster were in sight at breakfast time; insulated rocks, uninhabited and uncovered, except on the highest points, by a little grass and moss; and as we passed them, and thus entered the Chinese Sea, many of the gen- tlemen on the quarter-deck bade kind adois in Spanish to the Pacific, on whose waters they had for three years been floating — to which I added an aroha ino, as the band gave us " Auld lang Syne."
LETTER LXIX.
CASUALTIES OFF THE COAST OF CHINA.
Unhappy Accident — Fishing Junks. — First sight of the Chinese. — Aspect of the Islands.
U. S. Ship Vi-ncennes, Chinese Sea, January 1, 1830.
YESTERDAY a disastrous accident befel one of our crew. The morning was fine ; and impatient of reaching the island of Macao, the port of our present destination, we were crowding all sail, when the approach of a sudden squall caused a hasty order for the lighter canvas to be taken in.
In accomplishing this, one of the maintopmast studding sails went overboard, through the mis- management of the man at the haliards. The ship was moving rapidly through the water, and the moment the canvas came in contact with the sea the rigging attached to it was dragged swiftly
UNHAPPY ACCIDENT. 291
from the deck, and with such violence, that one of the lines becoming entangled about the leg of a marine who had inadvertently stepped into its coil, severed the limb instantly from his body as he was hurled against the bulwarks, and would have been carried overboard had he not been seized by some of his shipmates.
The crash at the same time of the studding sail boom, as the weight of the sail in the water car- ried it away upon the yard, and the agitated call down the hatchway for Dr. Malone, led those of us below to suppose for the moment that some one had fallen from aloft in the loss of a spar, and had been dashed to death upon the deck — an im- pression confirmed, on hastening up, by seeing streams of blood immediately under the main- yard. It was a relief therefore to learn the truth, melancholy as it is ; for there is hope for the poor fellow in this case, while there could have been none in the other. It was necessary to amputate the limb still higher than the spot at which it had already been severed, and the surgeon feels much anxiety as to the result.
The weather continued to be more and more boisterous till we were again well nigh in a tem- pest ; and for a few moments before daybreak this morning I was apprehensive of a terrific consum- mation of our disasters. After an almost sleep- less night, from the excessive rolling of the ship, I was awaked suddenly by an alarm on deck, ac- companying the loud exclamation of the com- manding officer to the man at the helm, " hard a o 2
292 FISHING JUNKS.
port ! hard a port ! — quick, quick f" followed by several rapid orders, and immediately afterwards by a slight concussion of the ship against some- thing, and again by a second, that brought every one in the ward-room upright in his berth. " She ivill strike, Sir, she will strike !" were the next words heard from the midshipman of the fore- castle, and I was expecting a tremendous crash of the Vincennes on the shore, when a quarter-master made his appearance with a light, and as another and still heavier blow was felt against the bow of the ship, checked the alarm of the ward-room by informing us, that instead of running on shore ourselves, two fishing junks, in the darkness of the night and sleep of their owners, had run upon us : but fortunately without being sunk, the first not having appeared to sustain any injury, and the second only the loss of a small mast.
We hove to immediately, and hoisted lights till daybreak; but heard nothing from the boats, and presume they suffered little damage. I was early on deck. Though no land was in sight, the whole horizon was studded with these craft, the only ha- bitations of tens of thousands along the Chinese coast. Two are always in company, lying to un- der the same quantity of sail, attached to each other by hawsers, and dragging nets between them. They are long rude-looking structures, having one mast of considerable size in the centre, and ano- ther very small far aft, with an elevated stern and pointed prow, over which, in place of the bowsprit in our fishing smacks, is a wooden anchor. On
FIRST SIGHT OF THE CHINESE. 293
either side of the bow a large eye is painted, to keep a look-out, as it is said, but without always answering the purpose of proper vigilance, as was proved by the incident of the night, and which might have eventuated in a horrible catastrophe to those trusting their safety to such a watch.
On coming up with some of them, we soon had ocular demonstration of being in a new quarter of the globe. They all contain numbers of people, apparently whole families, men, women, and chil- dren— cadaverous set, shrewd and cunning in their expression, seemingly good natured, and highly delighted to see our fine ship rushing by, so near to their tossing craft that we might almost have leaped on board.
At eleven o'clock we made the " Pedra Bianca" a large white rock, a principal land-mark in ap- proaching one of the channels along the coast, leading to the entrance of the river on which Canton stands. These channels are formed by numerous shoals and islands edging the mainland. One of the largest, called the Grand Lama, was in sight at twelve : and shortly after a whole group nearer the continent, lofty points of which were also seen rising beyond them in the distance. A pilot and comprador, or purveyor, boarded us early in the afternoon ; and before nightfall we were once more at anchor off a small island called Loo-chow. All the islands in sight are exceed- ingly barren, scarce any more than lofty rocks covered with sand and ashes.
Fleets of fishing-boats are at anchor in many
294 ARRIVAL AT MACAO.
places close along the shore, forming floating vil- lages, without the appearance of any other ha- bitations, except a single hamlet opposite us, on Loo-chow. To this the pilot and comprador be- long. It wears but an indifferent aspect, scarce better than that of a poor fishing village at the Sandwich Islands. The first sounds heard from it were those of the gong^ proclaiming, as was supposed, the hour of evening sacrifice — for when the pilot was asked what it meant, he replied, " Josh — Josh !" — a corruption of the Portuguese " Dios." The sounds did not differ from those of a large drum, and the associations connected with their rapid and monotonous tones, were those of sadness, at the delusion and sin of so great a portion of the human family, as belong to this idolatrous empire.
LETTER LXX.
VISIT AT MACAO AND CANTON.
Dr. and Mrs. Morrison.— Cave of Camoens. — Party to Canton.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Chinese Sea, January 25, 1830.
Two days after the date of my last letter, we came to anchor in the roads of Macao ; and after a few days in that place and a hasty visit to Canton, are once more at sea on our passage to Manilla.
DR. AND MRS. MORRISON. 295
Macao is a Portuguese city, situated on a pe- ninsula of a large island of the same name. It is a walled town, well defended, and contains a large population, including Chinese residents and fo- reigners. The harbour is good for small vessels, but ships of the class of the Vincennes can only lie in the open roads, at a distance of two or three miles from the landing, rendering the commu- nication with the shore inconvenient, and at times unpleasant.
It is the summer residence of the merchants of Canton, and the only place where foreign ladies are permitted to land ; of course gentlemen who have their families with them, are under the necessity of living there. Aware that Dr. Morrison was an in- habitant of this place, I early renewed the ac- quaintance I had the pleasure of forming with him in London in 1826, and was most cordially re- ceived by Mrs. Morrison and himself into their family. The privilege and happiness of enjoying the hospitality of such a house, and the society of such friends, especially in a land of strangers, cannot be too highly appreciated, and can never be forgotten.
Captain Finch soon became domiciliated with Dr. Bradford of Philadelphia, in the establish- ment of Mr. Latimer, a merchant of Canton, from the same city; while all the officers of the ship received every polite and kind attention from other foreign residents, including Mr. Plowden, the chief of the Honourable East- India Company's
296 CAVE OF CAMOENS.
factory, and other gentlemen connected with the service.
The town is well built, cleanly, and handsome ; and we spent our time very agreeably, the few days that could be given to the enjoyment of its society. A principal object of interest and curio- sity within the place is a grotto, or rather niche in a rock, in which Camoens is said to have com- pleted the Lusaid. It is on the summit of a hill, in the midst of a garden and grounds tastefully laid out and well kept, cpmmanding delightful views of the city and of its inner and outer har- bours, and might well be supposed a haunt of the muses. I visited it twice— once in company with Captain Finch and Lieutenant Magruder, and a second time with Mr. Hoyt.
The library and museum of the East-India Company, an aviary of splendid birds belonging to Mr. Beal, an English resident, and a small Chinese temple, were also visited by us with much gratification.
The distance from Macao to Canton is about seventy miles. After considerable difficulty and delay, arrangements were made for a party of officers to go up. It consisted of Captain Finch, Lieutenants Sullivan, Dornin, and Lardner; Mr. Buchanan, Dr. Malone ; Midshipmen Bissell, Hawkins^ Maury, Melville, Rowan, Wurts, and myself; but of our trip, and the few days we were in the suburbs of that city, I made only hasty notes. To write them in full would require a
PARTY TO CANTON. 297
volume; and for the present I must be content with saying, that we were received and entertained in the most hospitable manner by C. N. Talbot, Esq., acting consul for the United States, and by the gentlemen of ftie various American and other foreign houses.
Our voyage up was by what is called the out- side passage ; but Captain Finch, Lieutenant Sullivan, Mr. Buchanan, and myself, returned by a route which afforded us a more extensive ob- servation of the country. We reached Macao again on the 18th instant; took our anchor for the Philippine Islands on the 22d, and hope to arrive at Manilla, their capital, in less than forty- eight hours from the present time.
LETTER LXXI.
DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY AND CITY OF MANILLA^
View of Manilla and first sight of shore. — Drive on the Calzada. — Native Troops and Music.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Bay of Manilla, January 30th, 1830.
ON the morning of the 26th instant, we descried the island of Lu9onia, or Lucon, at a point fifty or sixty leagues north of the entrance of this bay ; and for the two days following coasted its shore, under the alternate influence of a land and Seabreeze, with the outline of a mountainous and finely variegated country in full view.
The bay of Manilla is very extensive, ninety o3
298 VIEW OF MANILLA, AND
leagues in circumference, and the city situated on its southern shore, some twenty or twenty-five miles from the sea. We dropt anchor in our present berth early yesterday morning, and are surrounded by varied and beautiful scenery. The circuit of the bay is too wide to allow of distinct views of most of its shores; but the outline of the lofty hills and mountains sweeping round it, is traceable at most times against the sky — giving to it, as a whole, much the appearance of a noble lake. The view of the city, however, its suburbs, and the adjoining country on either side, and far inland, is full and imposing. The city itself, en- closed by walls of dark stone and surrounded by a broad moat, lies on the north side of the river Pasig, here flowing into the bay, while the sub- urbs, containing a tenfold population, lie across the same stream on the north. The aspect of the two sections presents a striking contrast. The dark moss-covered walls on the one side, screening every thing from sight except the red tile of the roofs of the houses, and the towers and domes of the cathedral and churches, stretch a half or three quarters of a mile along a green bank and carriage drive by the water's edge; while on the other, in place of heavy walls, bastions, and embattled towers, nothing is to be seen, as far as the eye can reach, but a mass of huts of bamboo and reeds, of the slightest construction and rudest aspect, embow- ered in groves of the greatest luxuriance and verdure. The location both of the city and sub«
FIRST VISIT ON SHORE. 299
urbs is very low — a characteristic of the surround- ing country ; but some miles inland it becomes more elevated and broken, and terminates at last on every side in lofty and beautiful mountains.
G. W. Hubbell, Esq., consular agent of our government, waited early upon Captain Finch and his officers, with a tender of the hospitality of his house ; and it is arranged that the Captain, purser, surgeon, and myself, shall take up our quarters with him during our visit.
My friend Lieutenant Magruder accompanied me on shore at two o'clock to dine at the consu- late, and to take a first glance of the city. The landing is by the river, a narrow and rapid stream, with a light-house, small and of imperfect service, at its mouth on the suburb side. A long mole of granite, with circular battery at the end, lines the river on the same side with the city ; immediately on passing which we perceived a greater stir of business than is seen from the bay, the river being lined on the side adjoining the suburbs with num- bers of vessels of various burdens, and covered with boats, plying rapidly in different directions. The walls of the city rise from the water, and ex- tend more than half a mile up the stream to a fine stone bridge, affording the only communica- tion by carriages with the suburb. Besides Mr. Hubbell, we found at the consulate Mr. King, a young gentleman of intelligence and piety, at- tached to the establishment ; and Captains Cheve'r and Benjamin, the commanders of two American merchantmen, at present in port.
300 DRIVE ON THE CALZADA.
The support of an equipage here is attended comparatively with so little expense, that it is not customary to walk, either on business or for pleasure ; and after dinner, at five o'clock, four carriciges were in readiness for the whole party, with the addition of Mr. Stribling from the ship, to take an evening airing. The usual vehicle is a light low phaeton, handsomely finished, drawn by two small, but fleet horses, under the management of a postillion mounted on one of them. The rides in the vicinity of the city are varied, and of a degree of beauty almost un- rivalled ; but that most resorted to in the evening is a broad road lined with a double row of trees, commencing at the bridge, and following the course of the moat and glacis surrounding the city wall to the beach, and extending along it in front of the city, with an open view of the bay and shipping. Here all the rank and fashion of the place assemble for an hour or more every evening, presenting an animated and truly beautiful spectacle, as equipage after equipage rolls along in a double line, one passing in one direction and the other in another, affording a full view from the open carriages of all the dress and beauty of the first circles of society. The ladies wear neither hats nor mantles; but, according to the Spanish custom on such occasions, appear in full evening costume.
This drive is called the Calzada. It is open entirely to the country on one side, and leads past the public parade ground, near the bay.
NATIVE TROOPS AND MUSIC 301
The standing forces of the government consist of 12,000 troops, all natives of the islands, com- manded by Spanish officers. Five thousand of these are quartered in the city, and the remainder in various parts of the group. There is a regular evening drill, and about two thousand were now under arms. They made a fine appearance ; are well dressed, well paid, and, it is said, are loyal and firm in their attachment to the Spanish au- thority. Two full bands were performing, and I have no where heard finer martial music, though all the musicians, like the soldiers, are native Indians of the country.
The airing and the drill usually terminate together ; the carriages, when the troops begin to move, changing the rapid rate at which, for the hour previous, they are whirled from one end of the Calzada to the other, to a walk, accompany them in long and slow procession, for the enjoy- ment of the music to which they march, till dispersed at the barracks near the bridge.
Two evenings in each week the military bands perform for an hour, in the palace square within the city in front of the residence of His Catholic Majesty's representative, the Captain-General and Governor of the Philippine Islands, at present the Senor Rocafuerte. This was one of the evenings ; and we drove into the city to share in the entertainment. It is a well-built, neat, and quiet town, containing a population of twenty thousand, principally Spanish, or of Spanish ex- traction ; officers of government, and of the mili-
302 EVENING SCENE AND
tary department ; priests,, soldiers, &c. The streets are regular and well kept, and the whole style of building that which I have described as prevailing in Lima — the Moorish quadrangle of two stories, with covered balconies from the second story over the street, and corridors within. Here the balconies, instead of lattice-work of dark wood, consist of large sashes, to be thrown open at pleasure, set, in place of glass, with the inner shell of a large muscle, which, prepared for the purpose, is translucent, transmitting the glare of a tropical sun in a mellowness of light equal to that passing through ground glass.
The houses of the foreign residents, and of the more wealthy inhabitants of the suburbs, are in the same style of architecture ; the first story being appropriated to storehouses, kitchens, offices, stables, &c., while the second is occupied by spacious and lofty saloons, and sleeping and dressing apartments.
LETTER LXXII.
EVENING SCENES AT A CATHOLIC FESTIVAL, AND CALL UPON A NATIVE FAMILY.
Illuminations. — Indian Cottages. — Costume of the Native Inhabitants. — Family Scene.
Manilla, January 31st, 1830.
AFTER tea this evening a large party took car- riages for a short drive to a parish in the eastern
ILLUMINATION. 303
part of the suburbs, where we were informed a festival in honour of the patron saint was in celebration.
The native islanders at Manilla, as well as the Spanish inhabitants, are Roman Catholics by profession; and holidays of this kind, with pro- cessions, illuminations, and fireworks in honour of them, are a chief source of amusement to the people. All the streets within the boundaries of the parish we now visited were more or less illu- minated, and those in the vicinity of the church, and through which the procession passed, as bril- liantly lighted as a walk inVauxhall; while all the houses were ornamented with gay hanging wreaths of flowers and evergreen, and various tawdry decorations of coloured paper and tinsel.
The buildings here are all in the native style ; cottages of greater or less dimensions, erected upon piles at various heights from the ground, and constructed of bamboo and reeds. They are usually square with high roofs, running to a point in the centre ; and are furnished so abundantly with large windows of lattice- work, that when thrown open, the interior is as much exposed to view, as that of an ordinary summer-house in the grounds of a gentleman in our own country. This was the case on the present occasion ; and, as we rode along the streets, we had as full a sight of the apartments, and of the families in gala dress, and in all the hilarity of festival times, as if we had been their guests.
Lofty arches of light wood, covered with colour-
304 COSTUME OF THE
ed paper and gilding, and blazing with lamps, were thrown across the streets ; while in other places obelisks of the same materials reared their illuminated summits high in the darkness of the night ; both having a tasteful and pretty effect.
The principal procession had closed before we arrived, but fireworks were setting off; and the image of the patron saint, a female martyr as appeared from the exhibition, was borne past us. In the immediate vicinity of the church, the streets were so thronged with pedestrians of all ranks, from those apparently of gentility and affluence, to the lowest orders, that we were obliged to alight near a half mile from it and walk the remaining distance. In the crowd there was quite as great a number of females as of the other sex, and some evidently of the highest classes, in as full evening dress as if in an opera house or ball-room.
An American gentleman of our party was ac- quainted with a native of some wealth whose house we happened to pass; and at his invitation our whole company ascended a stair on the out- side of the building, and joined a large circle of the relatives and family friends convened for pur- poses of festivity, embracing, from appearances, the entire connection of our host, from grandmo- thers in the decrepitude of old age to infants in the arms. The building was purely in the native style, and exceedingly neat in its finish and fur- niture.
The master of the house, a middle-aged man,
NATIVE INHABITANTS. 305
was in the prevailing costume of the civilized In- dians: pantaloons of striped calico of gay colours, with a shirt of thin grass cloth, or of a material the peculiar manufacture of the country — said to be from the fibrous parts of the leaves of the pine- apple—as transparent as gauze, exhibiting the entire contour and muscular action of the arms, shoulders, and chest. This article is always beau- tifully finished, and often richly embroidered around the collar, bosom, and waistbands. Its most striking peculiarity, however, is in the man- ner in which it is put on — the lower parts being invariably over, instead of under, the pantaloons. Shoes and stockings are not usually worn, and a round beaver hat is the only other article in the attire of a native gentleman.
The dress of the females consists of several gar- ments. The first is a short gown of thin muslin, as transparent as the shirts of the men, reaching scarce below the bosom, and hanging unconfined around the form, in a manner often to expose the person between it and a petticoat, covering the lower part of the figure. Over the petticoat, which is usually of dark print, several yards of a striped or plaid calico of bright and strong hues is worn, by wrapping it several times round the form. The ancles and feet remain bare, while the great toe, with one or two of its nearest neighbours, is thrust into the point of a long slipper of morocco, velvet, or silk, often richly ornamented, which is slid along the floor or pavement in walking, with a sound that is any thing in my ear but the "dulce
306 FAMILY SCENE.
fusurrum" of the Mantuan bard. The head is usually bare; but in full dress a fanciful turban of lace or wrought muslin is frequently worn, and also a richly embroidered half-handkerchief, of the same style, over the short gown.
They are fond of jewellery ; and besides pen- dants in their ears, bracelets, aud necklaces, I have seen the fingers of both the hands of a vil- lage belle stiff with diamond rings.
But to return to our host. We were received by him with great hospitality in an outer room, where tables were spread with a profusion of cakes and fruit, coffee, tea, &c., and then conducted into another in the midst of some twenty-five or thirty persons, principally females. The elder ones were in the costume of the country, with their hair turned smoothly back from the forehead, and hanging in a long queue behind — smoking cigars or chewing the betel-leaf and arica nut, with the juice of which their-mouths and teeth were deeply stained. Those younger, however, their daughters and granddaughters, were in European dresses of silk and muslin, with velvet spencers, gold chains, silk stockings, and shoes. No particular intro- duction took place; and all entered readily into conversation with those of our company who spoke Spanish. Refreshments of various kinds were offered; and among other things served, were cigars and the arica nut and betel-leaf.
With a manifest desire to please, the master of the house sent for music, to entertain us with a dance of the country ; but the gentlemen who in-
PROPOSED EXCURSION. 307
tended returning to the ship, pleaded in excuse for not remaining, the detention it would occasion to the boat, and we took our leave.
The whole evening was a novelty ; and a strik- ing proof of the devices by which men, while gra- tifying the desires and affections of a worldly mind, persuade themselves that they are doing God service, and working out their own salvation. We are ever ready to tithe " in mint, in anise, and in cummin" — ready to sacrifice our money and our time, but prone to neglect the weightier matters of the law, and to withhold the services and devotion of the heart.
LETTER LXXIII.
A VILLAGE FETE.
Ride to Santa Anna. — Description of the Bankas, or Na- tive Canoes.— Scenery on the RiVer Pasig. — Village of Pasig. — Return to Manilla.
Manilla, February 3d, 1830.
BEFORE sunrise this morning we were taking a cup of chocolate previous to setting off for the lake, some twenty miles distant, from which the river Pasig flows to the bay. Lieutenants Stribling and Magruder, with Dr. Wessels, and Midship- men Irving, Huntt, Kieth, and Taylor, had slept on shore, in order to be ready for the trip in the cool of the morning, and with Mr. Buchanan,
308 VISIT TO SANTA ANNA.
Captains Benjamin and Chever, Mr. King, and myself, constituted our party.
The excursion is made by water, on the Pasig ; but it was arranged that we should not take the river at the town, but go in carriages to the village of Santa Anna, two or three miles distant, by which a long bend in the stream, with a strong current against us, would be cut off. Accord- ingly, we were soon rolling along the Calzada, in seven veloches, with the fleetness of the wind, which our ponies, fresh from their stalls, seemed desirous of outstripping Our luggage was of ra- ther a singular and luxurious character, as seen piled conspicuously at the feet of each couple, in the bottom of the chariots, consisting principally of pillows, which are here showy articles, the cases being of fine cambric, highly wrought and trimmed with inserting of lace and ribbons over gay colours of pink, blue, yellow, &c. and of fine mats of the country. Mr. King, with whom I rode, as caterer, carried also a box of claret, sandwiches, bread, cheese, and ale. The use of the pillows will be mentioned in due time.
The drive to Santa Anna is one of the most pleasant in the environs. The road branches from the Calzada, near a picturesque cottage-like thatched guard-house, at the north corner of the parade, and is formed by a straight avenue, lined richly with trees of great variety, among which the huts of the natives stand so thickly as to consti- tute an almost uninterrupted village the greater part of the distance. The freshness of the morn-
BANKAS, OR NATIVE CANOES. 309
ing air made it peculiarly delightful ; and the fif- teen or twenty minutes occupied in accomplishing it gave a stimulus both to body and mind, that filled every face with bright looks and every bosom with cheerfulness, as we alighted, and all met for the first time in the rural and beautiful embowered Santa Anna.
It had been a general festival day, and all here was life and animation; the whole population, in varied and gay holiday dress, were just dispersing, after attending mass at a venerable and fine stone church — the first, I am told, established on the island — from whose octagonal and lofty turrets several chimes of bells of different powers, ranged tier above tier, were pouring forth peals indica- tive of merriment and joy.
Bankas, the name of the canoes of the country, were by engagement waiting our arrival at the edge of the stream ; and it was but a few moments before we were afloat on the waters of the Pasig. We still remained as in the carriages, two and two in separate canoes, they generally not being capa- ble of containing more with room to indulge in the luxurious attitude of travellers in them, which is that of reclining at full length on a mat spread in the bottom of the boat, with the head elevated on one of the gay pillows I have mentioned, at a sufficient height to afford a clear view above the sides of the canoe of the banks of the river, and scenery on either side.
In order, however, to give you a better idea of this mode of travelling, I must describe the canoes
310 DESCRIPTION OF THE BANKAS.
with greater particularity. They are formed from a single trunk, having much the appearance of the barks of the North American Indians; but with several appendages, of which the most important to their safety are two outriggers, one on each side These are of large bamboo, and lashed parallel to the sides of the banka, at the distance of two or three inches only, and render them much more buoyant than they otherwise would be, and very difficult to be overturned. Another fixture of prime importance in such a climate, is a slightly arched awning of mats, supported by stancheons along the sides, which are notched so that it may be elevated or let down at pleasure, proving a sufficient protection from the sun, rain, dew, and every inconvenience of the kind, as it may be lowered till resting like a lid on the canoe. The last convenience particularly worthy of notice, is a floor of split bamboo lashed closely together — making a cool platform to sit or lie upon, and is at the same time a protection from the water which occasionally makes its way into the bottom. Two natives, one in the prow and the other in the stern, furnished with paddles, oars, and setting poles — with which they varied and relieved the labour of working the boat — managed it with great skill ; and by taking ad- vantage of the eddies and counter-currents, first along one shore and then the other, propelled us up the stream of a rapid river, with much greater speed than would be supposed without ocular demonstration.
THE RIVER PASIG. 311
The Pasig is a beautiful river, perhaps one hundred yards wide at Santa Anna, and diminishes very little for five or six miles. At that distance tht two streams forming it, one coming from the mountains in the east, and the other from the lake, unite : above this confluence, each is about half that width.
The general course of the river is sufficiently circuitous to be the more pleasing for its wind- ings, without making the progress tedious. The banks are about four or six feet above the surface of the water, almost every where perpendicular, and as richly fringed with foliage as the most luxuriant imagination could picture — the light, lofty, and graceful bamboo predominating, and contrasting strikingly ai*d beautifully with the compact, wide-spreading, round -topped mango. For the first three or four miles, the habitations of the people along this edging of trees and thickets presented the appearance of a continued village, each hut having its own little groves and shrubbery, through and beyond which glimpses might occasionally be caught of extensive rice grounds, like the fields of a farm at home, with here and there a cluster of stacks of straw from which the paddy had been thrashed. In front of each cottage, a well-built substantial flight of stone steps leads down to the water, the last step forming a large platform under the surface, on which to sit or stand in bathing, which is here a daily habit. On some of these, mothers were washing their children previous to putting on
312 VILLAGE
their festival clothes ; and on others, busy house- wives were preparing poultry and vegetables for the holiday dinner, or scouring their cooking utensils and eating dishes.
Rustic belles and beaux, in full dress, were at the same time seen strolling slowly among the groves, or hastening along as if destined to some distant scene of hilarity — all gay and animated, and evidently a mild and happy people. Occa- sionally a banka, filled with a sprightly party, past us swiftly under the double impetus of the paddle and the current ; while, to fill up the ro- mance, from or two the tones of the song and guitar came floating to us in all their wild ness as they glided by.
So much were we delighted with the richness and beauty of the scenery, and the novelty of every thing around, that we could scarce believe ourselves at the village of Pasig, ten miles from Santa Anna, when, just after eight o'clock, the tower of its church was seen rising above the groves in which the town is embowered. We were to spend a principal part of the day here' with an intelligent and wealthy native, one of the aristocracy of the place ; and were most hospita- bly received by himself and a son who has received a classical education at a Roman Catholic college in Manilla.
A short walk from the place of landing brought us into a street leading directly to the church, in the centre of the village The bells were ringing cheerily, and a procession passing around the en-
OF PASIC. 313
closure in which the building stands, while crowds of people from all directions were pressing to se- cure a view. The principal image borne along was that of a female saint as large as life, in a dress of blue satin, glittering with silver spangles, lace, and tinsel, with a small hat of blue loaded with white plumes: probably the patroness of the church and village, before which gaudy idol all prostrated themselves as it passed. The proces- sion was composed, with the exception of a Spanish padre, and an assistant cure, an Indian, of fe- males from five and six years of age, covered with spangles, lace, flowers, and jewellery, to girls of sixteen and eighteen, all in their best attire ; bearing wax tapers in the full glare of a tropical sun, and chaunting an hymn, probably of idolatry, to the dumb and helpless object forming the most conspicuous part of the show.
They merely marched round the yard, and re- entered the church for the performance of mass — a service which none of us wished to attend ; and after looking for a moment at the interior, which was not worthy of particular notice, we proceeded to the residence of our host.
The street leading to it presented a pleasing sample of the neatness and rural beauty of a Philippine village, or rather town, for Pasig is said to contain 15,000 inhabitants. It is wide, and covered with a beautiful turf — wheels and animals of burden being so little used as to make nothing like a travelled carriage-way through it — while the picturesque habitations of the villagers,
314 RETURN TO MANILLA.
overhung with trees, line it on either side, in separate enclosures filled with the mango, bamboo, arica-nut, &c. &c.
Four or five hours passed rapidly away in. various observations of the scenes around us ; and after enjoying an extensive and beautiful view from the tower of the church of the whole surrounding country, including the lake, three or four miles distant, lying like an inland sea in the bosom of its shores and mountains ; taking a stroll in the garden of the padre of the town ; visiting two or three native families — one of which was entertaining with a feast, accompanied by music and dancing, all the females forming the proces- sion of the morning; and sharing in a profuse dinner of fish, fowl, meats, various dessert, and fruit, provided by our citizen friend, we prepared to extend our excursion to the lake.
For this purpose our bankas were again or- dered. The scenery on the way did not differ materially from that which we had passed ; the banks being low and level, and richly clothed, till we approached the lake, where the paddy-grounds extended to the water's edge. Two large passage and freight boats were at anchor near the entrance, waiting for passengers and cargo for the head of the lake, forty miles distant. We boarded one of them for a few moments, but found nothing in the view they commanded to detain us — that of the tower of the church having given a better and more impressive idea of the extent and beauty of this sheet of water.
RETURN TO MANILLA. 315
On our return we stopt to take leave of our hospitable acquaintance at Pasig; and found the additional refreshment of a cup of rich chocolate prepared for us. It was near four o'clock when we left. Our descent was rapid. Instead of landing at Santa Anna, we kept our boats, and were greatly gratified with the richness and beauty of the river scenery between it and the city, blended with the architectural display in numerous country seats belonging to the principal Spanish residents.
LETTER LXXIV.
THE CAMPO SANTO, OR PANTHEON, THE PUBLIC BURIAL-PLACE.
Santa Magdalena — Chapel of the Pantheon. — Depository of Bones. — The Calzada.
Manilla, February 8, 1830.
AFTER a visit in the morning, with Mr. Hubbell, to the new custom-house, a noble and extensive structure of Grecian architecture in light free- stone, immediately on the river, I devoted the day to further observations on the city and its environs, in company with my friend Mr. Hoyt.
Our first drive was a circuit of five or six miles to the north, a direction in which I had not pre- viously been. The scenery is much the same as
316 SANTA MA.GDALEXA.
in other quarters, with the addition of a higher degree of cultivation, especially of the horticultural kind ; most of the vegetables with which the market is supplied being grown in that vicinity. We also visited the parish of Santa Magdalen a in the east ; and from a rising ground three miles from the bay, enjoyed an extensive and beautiful prospect of the surrounding country, including the silver windings of the Pasig through the rich lowlands between Santa Anna and Manilla, and the towers and domes of the city and its suburb beyond.
After a handsome dinner with a party of mid- shipmen, at the only hotel in the place, we again joined our carnage; and in company with Dr. Wessels and Midshipmen Melville and Anthony, took a circuit along the bay in the direction of Cavite, a kind of outer port to Manilla, at a dis- tance from it of some twelve or fourteen miles, through villages and embowered lanes of un- rivalled beauty. On our return we stopped at the pantheon or burial-place of the city, on the road towards Santa Anna. Its location is beau- tiful, with a gateway a little retired from the road on the eastern side. The exterior presents nothing but a heavy wall of brown stone, eight or ten feet in height, forming a circle a hundred yards or more in diameter, with a small low chapel, sur- mounted by a dome, at the farther side opposite the gate.
Within, the scene is striking, and with its asso- ciations pleasingly affecting ; consisting of a taste-
CHAPEL OF THE PANTHEON. 317
ful and neatly kept shrubbery and flower garden, filled with bloom and beauty, and screening, in a degree, the niches in the wall for the deposit of the dead, for a longer or shorter period, before being committed to a common receptacle. The chapel is the most simple and chaste Catholic structure of the kind I have ever seen ; so much so, that I was charmed with the good taste ex- hibited in it. Every thing within, except a tesse- lated pavement of white and blue, is of the purest white, with delicate mouldings and ornaments in gilding. The altar is finished and furnished with a crucifix, &c. in the same style, and on either side is a sarcophagus eight or ten feet in length and seven high, in keeping with the whole ; the one, surmounted by a mitre and crozier, desig- nating its appropriation to the bodies of the arch- bishops of the metropolis ; and the other telling, by a sword and chapeau, that it is designed for a like service, to such of the governors-general as may die invested with the chief civil and military office of the colony.
After having thus examined and admired the chapel, and having each received a bouquet of flowers from some servants in attendance, we were about turning from the door to continue our ride, with feelings and impressions of an agreeable, though not inappropriate character, when three or four dirty looking and shabbily dressed natives came up to the steps in a careless and light man- ner; one of them bearing on his arms a large shallow tray, on which was lying what we supposed
318 DEPOSITORY OF BONES.
a gaily dressed waxen image; but which, to our surprise, as he placed it on the pavement, and began to arrange wax tapers on either side, was perceived to be the corpse of an infant, perhaps a year old, upon whose emaciated features, and life- less^ though open eyes, there still lingered an ex- pression of the pain, the sorrow, and the melan- choly of death ! The silk drapery, gold lace, gay flowers, and tinselled ornaments with which it was loaded, seemed sadly inconsistent and ill- placed beside the evidence presented by it of the frailty of life, and of the agonies of dissolution^ On making an inquiry as to the time and man- ner of the interment, a gateway at one side of the chapel was pointed out, and we were invited to view the burial-place of infants. It is a small building of a circular form, over the portal of which was the inscription, " angeliO)" reviving again, in a remembrance of the declaration of " such is the kingdom of heaven," the associations of a pleasing kind which we had felt before the sight of the corpse — but only to have them dissipated a second time by that which was much more horrible and disgusting : for on following our conductor along a kind of terrace round this mausoleum, the word " Osario" in large letters on the wall imme- diately behind it, met our eyes ; and, on looking into an area below, to which there was a descent on either side by a flight of stone steps, we be- held a most shocking mass of mouldering bones and flesh; of ghastly skulls, with mildewed locks and grisly hair still attached to them ; while hands
THE CALZADA. 319
and feet, kept in form by the adhesion of dried and discoloured tendons, were scattered among the bones of various other parts of the body.
It is thus, after having lain in the niches the desired time, the bodies are withdrawn from their repose, cast out from their coffins, and left, an indiscriminate mass of corruption, to enrich, by the decay of time, the bosom of their mother earth ! This sight destroyed all the interest of our first impressions ; and we hurried from it, past the little corpse still lying unregarded in the midst of the avenue, to our carriages.
It is but a mile from the Campo Santo, or Pan- theon, to the Calzada, which we reached in a few minutes, and were at once in the midst of a scene in the widest contrast to that we had left. All the rank and fashion of the city were rolling along in various equipages, in all the gaiety of evening dress in a tropical climate; while two thousand troops were performing the evolutions of the usual drill, to the rich and soul-stirring strains of full military bands, stationed at dif- ferent points of the parade. We took our place in the line of carriages, coursing with them the beautiful drive, till the military display was over, and then returned to the city in the customary slow procession of the troops and bands.
320 DESCRIPTION
LETTER LXXV.
DESCRIPTION OF CAPE TOWN.
Call on the Governor, Sir Lowry Cole. — Public Gardens. — Dr. Philip.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Table Bay, April 8th, 1830.
AFTER a voyage of fifty-six days from Manilla, including two at anchor in the Straits of Sunda, we yesterday doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and before night ran thirty miles north of it to the bay, in which we now are, without however securing an entrance to it before nightfall.
I was roused this morning at four o'clock by the dropping our anchors abreast of Cape Town; and went early afterwards on deck. We were within less than a mile of the town, lying closely along the water's edge, directly beneath the Table Mountain, which rises seemingly from its very outskirts, like a perpendicular wall of granite, three thousand five hundred feet high. It is per- fectly level on the top for a stretch of some miles, and in its face towards the water presents much the aspect, with the exception of the tufting of wood and shrubbery, of the palisade cliff1 on the. Hudson, near New York. It is flanked on one side by a lofty peak — from which it is separated by a
CAPE TOWN. 321
barren and narrow valley — and an adjoining round hill, called respectively the Lion's Head and Back: and on the other, by a naked cone of equal height, called the Devil's Peak ; all so close to the town as to exclude every other view in that direction.
The town, containing twenty thousand inhabi- tants, is compactly and regularly built on wide streets, crossing each other at right angles; pre- senting a neat and agreeable appearance from the water, the prevailing colour of the buildings being white or light stone. Many of the houses are low and flat-roofed, especially those skirting the borders of the town. These are the most conspicuous; arid, surrounded by gardens and shrubbery, have a rural and tasteful aspect. Every thing adjoining, however, is sunburnt and dreary ; though in the winter, or rainy season, the whole country is said to be beautifully verdant, and gaily enamelled with flowers.
We early exchanged salutes with a fortress on shore. The effect of our guns against the cliffs of Table Mountain was grand beyond any thing of the kind I ever heard — echo after echo of the deepest-toned thunder — intermingled with rever- berations, like the discharge of a rapid feu dejoie — rolled round and round the bay between every gun, as if a whole fleet were in action.
At twelve, I accompanied Captain Finch, Lieut.
Stribling, Mr. Buchanan, and Dr. Malone, in
a call, under the guidance of James Bance, Esq.,
port-captain, on His Excellency Lieutenant-
p3
322 CALL ON THE GOVERNOR.
General the Honourable Sir Galbraith Lowry Cole, G. C. B., governor and comrnander-in- chief of the colony. The government-house is at present undergoing repairs, and we were re- ceived at the Colonial-office. The general is an able and popular ruler, of commanding figure, and plain and unaffected manners ; and, after giving us a cordial welcome to Cape Town, ex- pressing the gratification it afforded him to see the American flag in Table Bay, regretting that the government-house was in a state to deny him the happiness of entertaining us us he could desire, &c. &c., entered into general conversation for half an h ur with much intelligence and courtesy. On passing from the governor's rooms, we paid our respects for a moment to Lieutenant-Colonel Bell, colonial secretary, a brother-in-law of the go- vernor, the ladies of both being daughters of the distinguished diplomatist the late Earl of Malmesbury ; and were afterwards introduced by Captain Bance to the family of Mr. Ebden, a principal merchant of the place.
In the afternoon I accompanied my friend Lieut. Magruder on shore, and, joined by Mr. Bu- chanan, took a more full survey of the place. It is well-built and beautiful — more like some of our American towns, especially those originally settled by the Dutch, than any I have seen in a foreign country. The general style of architecture is much the same; the apparent equality of wealth and rank similar ; and the mixture of the popula- tion of British and Dutch extraction, in a like pro-
PUBLIC GARDENS. 323
portion ; while the household servants, coachmen, teamsters, &c. of blacks and mulattos, keep up the resemblance in these respects to many of the most flourishing towns in Pennsylvania, and the older sections of the state of New York. There is a blending, too, of city and village in the ap- pearance of the streets and evident habits of the citizens, that is very agreeable, not unlike that seen in the principal towns in the interior of the United States. In one respect, however, it is totally unlike any place in our own country — in the numerous soldiery seen on post and in the streets, several regiments being usually quartered here.
The gardens formerly belonging to the Dutch East- India Company are a principal ornament of the place. They occupy one hundred and twenty acres immediately adjoining the most compact part of the town, a principal part of which is enclosed and cultivated with fruit and vegetables, &c., leaving a wide and beautiful avenue of oak in the centre, nearly a mile in length, alone open to the public as a promenade. The government-house is situated in the gardens on one side of the avenue — a rural and pleasant establishment, prin- cipally in cottage style, without any particular beauty or elegance of architecture.
Before returning on board, I called on Mrs. Philip, lady of the Rev. Dr. Philip, superinten- dent of the missions in South America under the London Missionary Society. I had previously learned with regret that Dr. Philip himself was
324 RIDE TO CONSTANTI A.
several hundred miles in the interior, and that I should be denied the happiness of meeting him. The hospitality of her house was most kindly ex- tended to me : but I have thought it advisable to remain on board ship during the short time we shall remain at our present anchorage.
LETTER LXXVI.
A RIDE TO CONSTANTIA, AND AN EVENING AT PROTEA, THE COTTAGE OF SIR LOWRY COLE.
Ride to Constantia. — The Silver Tree.— Upper Constantia. — Lower Constantia. — Ride to Protea. — Family of the Governor. — Lady Frances Cole Lady Catharine Bell.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Table Bay, April 18th, 1830.
THE visit of the Vincennes has been received so kindly at the Cape, and all her officers so hospi- tably entertained by the inhabitants, both Dutch and English, that my time since our arrival has been fully occupied. A daily reciprocation of civility has taken place between the ship and town, to the seeming gratification of all parties, and we shall have much reason to remember with pleasure the many circles of agreeable acquaintance formed at the Cape of Good Hope.
A principal object of curiosity in the vicinity is the estate of Constantia, so long celebrated for the peculiarity and excellence of the wine produced from its vineyards ; and the Rev. Mr. Beck, a
THE SILVER TREE. 325
near relative of the present hereditary proprietor of the estate, kindly proposed taking Lieutenants Stribling and Magruder, and myself to it in his carriage, a few mornings since.
The road leads directly north from the town, and is a delightful turnpike, having an open com- mon — sprinkled here and there with a cluster of white cottages, a single hut, or a windmill — on either side. Seared at this season of the year by the winds of the autumn, its entire surface is sterile and dreary, like that of a heath in England. After three miles, however, the drive becomes beautiful, the road being completely embowered by groves of lofty oak and pine, and ornamented by handsome gateways, leading to mansions and cottages thickly scattered along the way — the summer retreats of " the powers that be," and of those " rick in this world's goods'* The turn- pike winds gradually around the bases of the Table Mountain and Devil's Peak, and at the end of six miles passes the small village of Wyn- berg. Two miles farther brought us> to the end of our excursion. The approach to the gate is through a grove of the silver tree — protea argentea — affording us full proof of the appropriateness of their name. The long-pointed leaves are thickly set on the branches, and being of a blueish green colour, covered with a fine white furze or down, have the appearance, as the rays of the sun fall upon them, of being edged and tipped with silver. Constantia was originally a Dutch government estate, and is beautifully located under the moun-
326 UPPER CONSTANTIA.
tains of the range of Table Land, commanding fine views of the surrounding country, and of the Indian Ocean on the eastern side of the Cape. It derives its name from the grape of Constantia in France, which was that introduced into its vine- yards, and by which it has attained its celebrity. It was sold by the government to a gentleman of the name of Cloete, an ancestor of the present occupant, and entailed in his family, subject to certain imposts on the proceeds of the vintage.
Since that period the original estate has been divided into Upper, or Great, and Lower Con- stantia, from their relative position to the moun- tains. A new estate has also since been laid out and planted on ground still more elevated ; and from that fact called High Constantia. This we did not visit, but had a full view of its vineyards, stretching over the sides of a hill at the base of the mountains.
The entrance to Upper, or Great Constantia, is by an avenue of majestic oaks, a quarter of a mile or more in length, descending gradually to the house, a respectable-looking old mansion in the Dutch style a century ago. Mr. Cloete received us with much politeness, and after a conversation of half an hour in a drawing-room, conducted us through the gardens, shrubbery, and fruit-yard in the rear of the mansion. The colony of the Cape of Good Hope may be correctly styled the land of fruit and flowers, and the grounds are filled with a handsome variety of both. The walks are lined with hedges of myrtle, and their intersections over-
LOWER CONSTANTIA. 327
spread with arbours beautifully arched and orna- mented, by the training of the living oak. In speaking of the value of this noble tree, we were informed by the proprietor of its importance here in a respect which I do not recollect to have before seen noticed, in the sustenance it affords not only to swine, but to horses and cattle. The acorn is a principal food on the estate of these animals, furnished to them in the manner in which Indian corn is in the United States. After being gather- ed, they are preserved without difficulty, by keep- ing them covered with fresh water, in which man- ner they retain all their juices without being sub- ject to decay.
A next visit was to the wine-house, a long range of building filled with tiers of immense tanks, of Constantia. From these a superintendant began at once to serve us with samples of the different kinds made on the estate. All the varieties — white and red, Frontinac, Muscadine, and Pontac, are sweet — too luscious to be drank except as a cordial, with cake, or after coffee at dinner.
We then passed through a vineyard of forty acres, inclining handsomely on one side of the house. The vines are kept very low, about three feet from the ground, without stake or trellis, and some of them were pointed out to us as more than seventy years old. The vintage of the season is just past and the grapes all gathered, but a cluster here and there, fully ripe, afforded a luxurious bonne bouche in our walk.
An elegant collation awaited our return to the
328 RIDE TO PROTEA.
mansion ; , after partaking of which we visited Lower Constantia, the possession of a Mr. Colyn. We were received in the same hospitable and kind manner by this gentleman, and conducted over an establishment equally rich and beautiful ; and left, on our return to Wynberg- — where we were to dine with the Honourable Mr. Wheatley, a judge of the bench of Bengal — much gratified with the observations of the morning.
The next evening I was engaged to dine at the cottage of Governor Cole, ten miles in the coun- try) with Captain Finch, Dr. Malone, and Cap- tain Bance : and at half- past six we took our seats in a landau and four, to meet the appointment. Just before night a south-east wind, the sirocco of the Cape, had suddenly risen, and was sweeping around and over every thing, almost with the power of a hurricane, driving and whirling the dust before it like the snow of a winter's storm in Otsego; and had not the accompanying tempe- rature been sufficiently cool to admit of having the carriage closed, the ride would have been ex- ceedingly unpleasant. With this advantage, how- ever, and a knowledge of the excellence of the road — it being the same, excepting two miles, that we had travelled to Constantia — we suffered no inconvenience, notwithstanding the darkness and the storm ; and in little more than an hour found ourselves whirling through the gates of Pro- tea — the name given by Sir Lowry to the estate, from the abundance of the silver tree surround- ing it.
FAMILY OF THE GOVERNOR. 329
The former country-seat of the governor of the colony, the Newlands, in the same vicinity, was a splendid establishment, costing the British govern- ment, it is said, during the administration of Lord diaries Somerset, the predecessor of General Cole, o^80,000 sterling; but this has been sold, and Protea is the private property of the governor; upon which improvements are but just commenc- ing, it having been in his possession only a short time. It seemed an unpretending establishment for a captain-general, though the opportunity of judging of its appearance was very imperfect, from the darkness of the night — the range of lights at the portico, with those of three or four chariots in waiting, throwing only a limited and flickering glare around.
We had been apprized that it was but a family party we were to join ; and on entering the draw- ing-room, found just the circle that those long cut off from the enjoyment of refined and polished society would wish to meet — divested of every thing like the formality and etiquette of an enter- tainment of state. Lady Frances, with two or three female companions, and four lovely daugh- ters, from five to twelve years of age; the governor and his aids, military and civil ; the attorney ge- neral and lady ; the surgeon of the household ; and one or two young officers in the uniform of the Scotch regiments, constituting the number. The general, in the full uniform of his rank, scarlet, with epaulets and cordons of gold, re- ceived us in the centre of the room, and after an
330 LADY FRANCES COLE.
interchange of salutations, presented each of our company in order to his lady> and then to the party in general.
Nothing in a family circle has a greater charm for me than a group of intelligent, well-managed, and lovely children ; and the daughters of the household, in a uniform of scarlet crape, with blue ribbons on their necks to match their bright eyes, attracted my first attention. The younger two quickly threw off* the reserve imposed by the en- trance of strangers, and while every look and every action told that they had been trained by no inferior hand, by their vivacity and playful- ness presented a delightful picture of the happi- ness of childhood in the bosom of those it loves ; and it was with sincere regret that I perceived the whole number, when dinner was announced, kissing good night to Lady Frances, as she gave her hand to Captain Finch to be led to the salle a manger.
The entertainment in the dining-room was all that elegance and taste could desire. On rejoining the ladies, however, at ten o'clock, for a cup of tea, I was gratified with a richer enjoyment, in addition to the conversation taking place, in the privilege of looking over the sketch-book of Lady Cole, filled with drawings from nature, manifest- ing a high degree of native and cultivated talent in the art. The subjects, especially those in land- scape, were of local interest to the family, in Ire- land, France, and Spain, where Sir Lowry served in the Peninsular war; in the Mauritius, where he
LADY FRANCES COLE. 331
was for several years governor, &c. &c., pointed out to me by Mr. Balfour, a nephew, and private secretary of the general, one of the most pleasing of the acquaintances I have formed during our voyage. Both Lady Frances and her sister Lady Catharine Bell, are distinguished for their high mental endowments, and for the various accom- plishments of their education ; and I was happy to learn that the influence of their rank and talents in the colony is cast in favour of rational enjoy- ments and of piety. Lady Frances is not only the patroness, but a superintendent of the Sabbath School in the Episcopal Church.
The general and his family take possession of the government-house in town in a few days, for the winter; and on the 23d inst. a grand fete, in honour of the birthday of his Britannic Majesty, is to be given by them. Invitations were early issued to the officers of the Vincennes ; and both the governor and his lady expressed a cordial wish, before taking our leave, that we might re- main to the entertainment.
332 FIRST VIEW
LETTER LXXVII.
ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA, AND INTERVIEW WITH GOVERNOR DALLAS.
First View of St. Helena. — Description of James Town. — Reception by Governor Dallas.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Bay of James Town, May 3d, 1830.
WE left our anchorage in Table Bay on the 19th ult., and on the morning of the 1st inst. de- scried St. Helena, at a distance of fifty miles — seeming only a small jagged- top cloud of deep blue, on the verge of the horizon.
The night closed round us while yet twenty-five or thirty miles distant. The evening was tranquil, and beautifully clear ; but strong and irresistible associations on the fate of the man, whose name and end have stamped eternal celebrity on the island before us, shrouded it in our eyes with a gloom that rendered doubly sombre the deep neu- tral .tint spread in an unvarying shade over its precipitous coast. Every other emotion was lost in the feeling that we were gazing on a mauso- leum, in the midst of the mighty deep, appropriate in its features of dreariness and gloom to the later destinies of the genius whose remains repose with- in it. And with the pall and the bier, and all the saddening appendages of the grave floating in my imagination, I could compare the outline of the
OF ST. HELENA. 333
island, as seen against the sky in its bearings at the time, to nothing more descriptive of its general form, than a gigantic coffin — to which, in reality, the perpendicular headlands on either end, the proportionate length and heighth,and an unvaried sable hue, gave it no slight resemblance.
The light of the following morning converted the blackness of the bare walls of rock bounding the whole island, as seen in the preceding evening, into a reddish brown, but without diminishing the general aspect of dreariness and desolation. No- thing like freshness or verdure was to be seen, ex- cept a few pointed hills, rising in the centre above the general mass of sterility, and belted beneath by a narrow strip of cultivated country, sprinkled with a cottage and plantation here and there — beautiful indeed, but only like the oasis of the desert, from a strength of contrast with every thing around.
Every headland and craggy peak is surmounted by its flag-staff and signal station, from one to an- other of which communications were constantly making as we approached. In doubling the north end, we neared the shore so closely, that the mon- strous cliffs composing it — becoming more and more lofty and precipitous in the vicinity of James Town, on the north-west — towered hundreds of feet perpendicularly above our mast-heads. The first view of Buttermilk Point, on passing which the anchorage comes in sight, .is singularly strik- ing, from the batteries planted high on its very face, and occupying every nook and crevice in
334 DESCRIPTION OF
which a gun can be secured— presenting in one spot a projecting rock, and in another a wide- mouthed port, with a heavy piece of artillery pointed towards you ; here a short stretch of arti- ficial wall, and there a breast-work of the original cliff — without any plan or order other than that of the natural formation. The mouths of cannon project at irregular intervals and distances, from the top to the bottom, among which, the heads of a half-dozen guards were seen peering over the parapets upon us, like eagles from the midst of their aeries.
This aspect is, in a greater or less degree, cha- racteristic of the cliffs the remaining distance of a mile to James Town ; in front of which we were soon moored within a quarter of a mile of the shore. The glen, in the narrow mouth of which it stands, is wedged in between two almost per- pendicular walls of brown lava near a thousand feet in height, approaching each other as they run inland, till at the distance of a couple of miles, they shut out all farther view. An esplanade in front, of a few hundred yards extent — formed by a massive wall ten or twelve feet high, running across the glen, to guard the beach from the en- croachment of a heavy surf, is planted with a bat- tery, and ornamented with a double row of trees of the banian tribe, skirting the walls of the town. The first buildings above the tops of these that catch the eye, are a neat church of light yellow, with a square tower on the right side of the gate in the centre of the wall; and the government-
JAMES TOWN. 335
house, or castle, a large heavy-looking mansion, surrounded by trees and gardens, on the other. Between these, from the rapid ascent of the ground, a full view is presented of an open, un- planted square, surrounded by residences of good size and comfortable appearance, beyond which the roofs of numerous habitations, interspersed with a few trees, a lofty building or two, a barrack and hospitals, are seen, stretching up the narrow defile for a mile or more, till they terminate in a view of some neat cottages and gardens overlook* ing the whole, at the extreme point in sight.
This morning at eleven o'clock, Captain Finch, accompanied by Dr. Malone and myself, went on shore to wait upon the governor, the Honourable Brigadier-General Dallas; as many others of the officers as could be spared from the ship having already started for Long wood.
The only landing is close beneath a projection of the cliff, on the left of the anchorage, under the bastions of a fort planted on the face of the rock, some eighty or a hundred feet above the water. Though more sheltered from the swell of the sea than any other spot, still caution is requisite in getting from a boat on the abutment and steps of massive stone with which it is furnished, as the water is of great depth, and its rise and fall in the eddy and whirl of the surf at all times se- veral feet, and often so great as altogether to in- terrupt the communication between the shipping and town. A causeway, hewn from the rock, leads along the base of the hill, from the perpendicular
336 RECEPTION BY
surface of which, on the one hand, enormous masses projecting in frowning deformity, threaten momentarily to crush you beneath their tremen- dous weight ; while on the other are the roar and lashing against the parapet of a deadly surf. An irresistible query, as we trod this fearful way, was, what must have been the thoughts and the feel- ings of the imperial captive, when, for the first and the last time, he paced this same ground, and gazed above and around him on the horrid features of his appointed prison ? For the moment, at least, I suspect the firmness of the philosopher must have been shaken, and the nerve of the hero unmanned.
On passing the gate an air of comfort, of quiet- ness, and of leisure, is visible in every thing : there is nothing of the stir and bustle of business, but on every side evidence of indolence and inac- tivity— soldiers in handsome uniform lounging around — officers in rich undress, and clusters of gentlemen in citizen's garb seated in the shade beside the houses, or in verandas in front.
Mr. Solomon, a merchant of wealth, kindly threw open his house to the officers of the ship immediately on our arrival, and we availed our- selves of his hospitality till the governor should arrive from Plantation- House, the governmental country seat, three miles inland, where his family exclusively reside. He visits the castle in town, however, almost daily on business ; and when in- formed of his presence there, under the guidance of Mr. Solomon, we paid our respects to him.
GOVERNOR DALLAS. 337
Our reception by the general and his son, a captain in the Hon. East-India Company's ser- vice, and by Captain Knipe, civil aid, or secretary, was most cordial, and immediately followed by an invitation to dine with himself and family this evening at six o'clock ; but being already engaged to Mr. Solomon, the invitation was renewed for to-morrow, after we should have accomplished a visit to Longwood. Knowing that the council of the island was convening, and the Governor con- sequently occupied, after a short and agreeable interview, we took leave for a more extensive survey of the town previous to the dinner hour of Mr. Solomon.
LETTER LXXVIII.
THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON, LONGWOOD, AND PLAN- TATION HOUSE.
Tomb of Napoleon. — Arrival at Longwood. — Bed-room of the Emperor. — Reading and Drawing-rooms. — Billiard and Drawing-rooms. — New Longwood-house. — Road across the Island. — Plantation-house. — The Dallas Family.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Bay of Jamestown, May 5th, 1830.
YESTERDAY morning Captain Finch, Dr. Ma- lone, and myself took breakfast with Dr. Price, the health officer of the port; and soon afterwards became mounted for an excursion to Longwood, and the residence of General Dallas.
338 TO .MB OF
After the ride of an hour up the zig-zag roads cut in the surface of the hill — by which alone, on the one side of the glen or the other, the ascent to the mountainous country in the central parts of the island can be made — we found ourselves beyond the highest point of land between James- town and Longwood, on the edge of a tremendous gulf of an oval form, called the " DeviPs Punch Bowl" The precipices surrounding it are deeply furrowed by the washing of heavy rains, and are every where tinged with hues of the most delicate shade, a light purple dashed with pink and pale yellow predominating, the whole caused by the coloured earth of which the soil is here constituted. At the head of this chasm a narrow and secluded glen — contrasting strongly in the verdure and freshness of its trees, shrubbery, and grassy sides, with the colouring and nakedness of the wider and deeper parts below — lies cradled in green hills; and is the nook in which repose the bones of [the greatest'man of his age, and one of the master-spirits of his race —
" High is his couch : the ocean flood
Far— far below, by storms is curl'd ; As round him heav'd, while high he stood,
A stormy and unstable world. Alone he sleeps ! the mountain cloud
That night hangs round him, and the breath Of morning scatters, is the shroud
That wraps'the conqueror's clay in death. Hark ! — comes there from the Pyramids,
And'from Siberian wastes of snow, And Europe's hills, a voice that bids
Ihe vrorM he aw'd to mourn him ? — No !
NATOLKON. 339
His only— his perpetual dirge
Is the wild sea-bird's piercing cry — The mournful murmur of the surge —
The cloud's deep voice -the wind's loud sigh ! "
The tufted tops of the willows that droop around his grave, and the cottage and garden of the keeper, are seen in the depths of tile glen, while on the height of the banks above appears the white front of Huts' Gate, the farm-house occupied by Montholon, and from which the captive was ac- customed to descend on foot to the spring, near which he chose for himself a resting-place. Directly across the gulf, and within a mile in direct line, lies the plantation of Longwood, spread over an extensive plain, with the old and new houses on the gentle swelling of the highest point, with a few trees clustering around them.
The road to the plantation leads around the chasm by Huts' Gate, and the ride to it is at least two miles from the point of this first distant view.
A few moments' ride brought us to a gate on the principal road, opening into that cut in the side of the hill for the funeral procession. This we descended ; and on reaching a second gate at the end of half a mile, committed our horses to a person in waiting, and passing round a bank tufted with shrubbery, and gay with the scarlet blossoms of a geranium, found ourselves at the tomb of NAPOLEON, and on the brink of the pure fountain, the sweetness and refreshing coolness of Q 2
340 ARRIVAL AT
whose waters, in such a climate, led to the even- tual consecration of the spot.
The grave is surrounded by a double enclosure ; the first, of wooden pales in a dark paint, is a widely sweeping circle, enclosing the four willows overhanging it; and the other a square of about twelve feet of j^,in iron railing, marking the im- mediate dimensions of the tomb itself. This con- sists of three large flag-stones of granite, taken for the purpose from the hearth of the kitchen in New Longwood, laid without any inscription, in substantial masonry, at an elevation of a few inches only above the ground ; a monument rude and unadorned, and in good keeping with the end of the ill-fated exile on whose bosom it presses.
After examining every point of interest, drink- ing of the water of the spring, securing slips from the willows, inscribing our names in an album in care of the keeper, and musing on the career and fate of the conqueror over the little space of earth that alone of all his kingdoms is retained in his possession, we remounted our horses, and returning to the public road, pro- ceeded round the head of the ravine by Huts' Gate to Longwood.
The lodges and gates are a quarter of a mile or more from the house. The drive from them is straight and unornamented, except by a few strag- gling gum-trees, and for the last few rods ascends gradually to the site of the buildings. The horse I rode had been at no very remote period a
LONG WOOD. 341
famous racer. At different times during the ride from James Town, he had manifested some desire to give a specimen of his fleetness, and the mo- ment of passing the gate, probably from the fre- quency of his visits and familiarity with the ground, started at full speed with me, and had my accoutrements been at all similar, I should have arrived at Longwood much in the plight in which Gilpin found himself on the anniver- sary of his wedding on alighting at Ware. The only result in this case, however, was a sepa- ration for the time from my companions, by which I had an opportunity of looking round me for a few moments while they were coming up, after having committed my horse to the care of one of three or four urchins, ever ready on the ground for such employment, in the daily visits which the plantation now receives from strangers calling at the island.
The general aspect of the establishment is thatof an ordinary, shabby farm-house of stone, meanly stuccoed and irregularly built — the whole being in bad repair. Long ranges of sheds for cattle, painted of a dismal colour, line two sides of a large square cow-yard in which it is situated, while a third is formed by the kitchens, and offices of the principal house. The approach through this dirty enclosure, as a lawn, did not promise much for the interior; but I must confess that when, on being ushered from it through a door opening on the ground, with the announcement " this was the bed-room and
342 BED ROOM OF THE KMPUROR.
dressing-room of the emperor" — I found myself in a small, dark, and filthy stable, occupied by half a dozen horses, swarming with flies, and teeming with impuritys I could scarce suppress a flush of indignant feeling, at the contempt and degra- dation which appeared thus unnecessarily to be cast upon the illustrious, though perhaps justly unfortunate and unhappy, dead.
I never was a warm admirer of the character of Bonaparte — while yet in my early infancy, he had exchanged the greenness of his consular laurels for the glitter of the diadem; and in the daysofmy boy- ish politics, when his sceptre was extending widely over Europe, I regarded him principally as the proud usurper, whose ambition it was to triumph over the kingdoms of the earth, till he should become the Dictator of the world. But who has not admired the power of genius that raised him to his glory ? Who did not feel some sympathy, at least, in the depth of his fall ? Who did not commiserate him in the distance and desolateness of his exile ? And who, with the vivid impressions of the wretchedness and discomfort of his captivity, forced upon them by the scene in the midst of which we now were, would not be disposed to be- lieve every charge of unkindness and oppression that has been preferred against his keepers? How- ever different the state of the establishment might have been when inhabited by Napoleon, all the associations of a visitor with his situation during
the time, take their colour from w; at is seen ; and o ano o >dj
BILLIARD AND DRAWING-ROOMS. 343
the rooms should have been preserved in the condition in which they were left, or the whole should have been rased to the ground.
The next apartment we entered is that in which he died. It had been used as a writing- room and library ; and he was removed to it, after becoming seriously ill, for the benefit of a more free circulation of air. It is small, with two windows on one side, between which the bed on which he expired was placed. A threshing machine, festooned with cobwebs, is now its only furniture; and not only the paper in which it was once hung, but the plaster, and even parts of the wall itself, have been carried away by the nume- rous visitors since his death.
On one side of this is the dining-room— a low, dark, and uncomfortable corner of the building — and in front of it, the new wooden part put up after his arrival at St. Helena, consisting of two rooms connected by folding doors, one for bil- liards, and the other dignified by the name of a drawing-room, but neither equal in size or style to a parlour in most common farm-houses in the United States.
The review of the whole, in their present con- dition, tends irresistibly to produce feelings of sadness ; and such was the prevalence of these in my own bosom, that on stepping into the open air in front, every thing in sight seemed gloomy and desolate; and I could readily conceive, that even a great mind, suddenly cut off', not only from the splendour of an imperial station in one of the
341 DESCRIPTION OF THE
most refined nations of the world, but from all the enjoyments of private and domestic life, might speedily sink under the oppressive influence of the unvarying sameness and desolation of such a prison.
The plantation of Longwood is the property of the East-India Company, and the management of it, at present, under a superintendent of the name of Brokie. Himself and family occupy the house built for Count Bertrand, a few hundred yards distant, on a line with New Longwood House, the edifice erected for Napoleon, but to which he refused to remove. Mr. Brokie having heard of our arrival, came up, and went through the rooms again with us ; showed us a decayed shrubbery which had been planted under the di- rection of Bonaparte— a small fish-pond — a young oak of his own planting, &c. &c., all in the dimen- sions and style of those of a child's play-house in the precincts of a nursery. We then accom- panied him to his residence, a pretty cottage- like house, surrounded by trees and shrubbery. During the life of Napoleon, there was a covered walk between it and Longwood— enabling him to visit his friends unseen by others. We were here served by Mr. Brokie with fruit and other refreshments, in a neat saloon commanding views of the most highly cultivated parts of the plan- tation, of the rising ground near a mile distant at Deadwood, where the troops were encamped, and of the ocean. In the Venetian shutters, holes were shewn us, cut by Napoleon himself, for a
NEW LONGWOOD HOUSE. 345
spyglass, by which, without exposing himself to view, he could observe the evolutions of the troops, and the movements in camp.
The next object of curiosity was the New House as it is called — a spacious, well-planned, and handsomely finished mansion, calculated in all respects to secure the comfort of him for whom it was designed. It is a quadrangle of stone, stuc- coed, and painted yellow, with a roof of slate. The suite of rooms for Bonaparte himself — con- sisting of a dining, a drawing, and a billiard- room ; of a breakfast parlour, library, bed-cham- ber, dressing apartments, and bath — is noble and airy : as also are the parts intended for Count Montholon and family. The whole stands unoc- cupied arid unfurnished; and the government of the island are utterly at a loss to what purpose it can be best appropriated.
Having thus completed our visit, after thank- ing Mr. Brokie for his politeness, we remounted; and with a boy for our guide, set off for Planta- tion House, several miles distant on the opposite side of the island.
The central parts of St. Helena are as singu- larly romantic and beautiful by nature, and as highly enriched by cultivation and art, as the ex- terior is forbidding and desolate; and after re- passing Huts' Gate, our ride of two and a half hours, through the bosom of a lovely little vale, adorned by several handsome mansions and neat cottages, and by a zig-zag road cut in the sides
3
346 RIDE ACROSS THE ISLAND.
of a succession of verdant hills till we reached Diana's Peak, the highest point of the island, and then descended again to the residence of General Dallas, was interesting and delightful, beyond any anticipation we could have indulged, from every thing previously seen. Diana's Peak can be ascended on horseback till within a few roods of its summit. This consists of a platform of rock, mantled with vines and shrubbery, and overhung by a few low trees, from which the whole island is seen in bird's-eye view, with the ocean on every side ; its farthest verge, at a distance of fifty or sixty miles, being scarce distinguisable from the sky.
The scene, as looked down upon from "liis point, is one of the most unique, diversified, and beautiful that can be imagined ; wanting only an icy pinnacle and snow-capped summit here and there, to make it a perfect Switzerland in minia- ture : and could a first sight of St. Helena be taken from Diana's Peak, or any of the su round- ing points of view, it would be thought that the imperial exile had been the inhabitant of a para- dise, rather than a prisoner on a desolate and barren rock. So strictly true is this of the romance and improvements of the interior, that the seat of Sir William Doveton just beneath, on the road to the governmental country-house, is by no means inappropriately called FAIRY LAND.
It was near four o'clock when we entered the grounds of Plantation-house, the Eden of the
PLANTATION HOUSE. 347
island; embracing within its enclosures the growth and the beauty, in fruits and flower, of every re- gion,
rno*" From Nova Zembla's frosts to Ind's remotest clime;1'
'
and where every impression is at once lost, but that of being in the rich enjoyment of all in nature and art, that refinement, taste, and ele- gance need desire. The house fronts an exten- sive circular lawn, descending gradually for a half mile or more towards the sea, and terminating in an open terrace, beyond and beneath which the ocean only is to be seen — while on either side it is flanked by luxuriant groves of every growth, sweeping widely down a gentle declivity, em- bowering a carnage drive of several miles extent, and screening entirely from view, without ob- structing a sight of the ocean, all the nakedness and deformity of the coast two or three miles distant. The mansion itself is a spacious and substantial edifice, stuccoed and painted in imita- tion of stone; reminding me, in its general aspect, of the seat of the Honourable E. P; Livingston* at Clermont, on the Hudson.
We were conducted into a fine hall, furnished with a billiard table, by an aid-de-camp of the general; and, having sent a change of clothes from the town by a servant in the morning, were shown at once to rooms to dress for dinner, the first bell being just ringing. On re-entering the vestibule, we found the governor, Captain
348 THE DALLAS FAMILY.
Dallas, his son, and an aid, in readiness to con- duct us to the drawing-room ; where, on being presented to Mrs. Dallas and three daughters, to Miss Young, an intimate friend of the young ladies, to the Honourable Mr. Brooke, senior mem- ber of the council of St. Helena, the Rev. Mr. Vernon, colonial chaplain, and to the gentlemen of the governor's family, we met one of those circles of refinement, elegance, and accomplish- ments, which, after the intercourse even of an hour, are parted from with sincere regret.
We had been invited, with the greatest kind- ness and cordiality, to remain over the night ; and were not expected by the family to return to the ship till the following day. It was therefore with no little chagrin, at nine o'clock, after a cup of tea in an elegantly furnished library, from which the attractive display of an adjoining music room was seen, that I perceived Captain Finch making a bow, pour prendre conge, to Mrs. Dallas, just as I had entered into a conversation of much interest, with one of the most accomplished of the circle.
( 349 )
POSTSCRIPT.
THE Vincennes sailed from St. Helena on the evening of the fifth of May, the date of the pre- ceding letter; and after a prosperous voyage of thirty-two days, made the Jersey shore, some thirty miles south of Sandy Hook, on the after- noon of the seventh of June. We were obliged to lie to during the night ; but early next morn- ing received a pilot on board, and entered the lower bay. The wind did not allow the ship to come immediately to the city ; but a fine breeze springing up at mid-day, by four o'clock we were at the quarantine, and no cause of detention ex- isting, soon after filled our topsails to drop anchor, within the hour, at the close of a prospe- rous voyage of the world.
Those only who, after an absence of nearly four years — the case with most of the ship's com- pany— from all they hold most dear; who have sailed from clime to clime, visiting three of the four quarters of the world, holding intercourse with almost every variety of its inhabitants, and finding
" No place like home !" —
can alone estimate the emotions throbbing with- in each bosom, as our noble ship, with full spread
350 ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK.
sails, rushed over the beautiful bay towards the queen of the western world, resting brightly on her waters, in the evening lustre of a summer's sun. The green hills already behind us; the emerald islets studding the bosom of the harbour ; the richly cultivated heights of Long Island and the Jersey shore, with the Hudson and her ba- saltic cliffs in the blue distance, never before looked half so lovely, And when, as we rapidly approached our destination, with the light sail of the news collector and fisherman clustering round, and two noble steam-boats, crowded with our fellow-citizens if not with personal friends, who appeared from their looks to be participating with us in the exultation and thankfulness of our joy, passing by — the band, in appropriate and heartfelt strains, saluted our country and our home, with " Hail Columbia ! happy land!'1 — the power of association overcame the manliness of every other feeling, and I doubt whether, from the quarter-deck to the forecastle, a tearless eye was to be seen.
An anchor had scarcely been cropped, before Captain Finch, with his accustomed kindness, or- dered his gig to be lowered to carry me to the city. Like my companions, I had been without tidings from any of my friends for more than a twelvemonth; and I shall be pardoned, at least by some of my readers, for adding one word upon the dispensations that awaited my landing. The intelligence of the first few minutes confirm- ed the forebodings of ill which had sometimes,
DEATH OF MRS STEWART. 351
while at sea, given a cast of melancholy to a me- ditative hour. The object of attachment, to whom all I had written during my absence had been addressed, was then lying in the interior of the state, at the point of death ; and it was doubtful whether, even by travelling express, I should have the privilege of meeting her alive. This, in mercy, was granted me ; and a hope, for a time, was afterwards indulged, that she might still be rescued from the grave, and re- stored to health, to her family, and to society; but it proved illusive ; and, on the 6th of Sep- tember following, she died " the death of the righteous" and entered upon that " REST THAT
352 MANUSCRIPT LEFT AT KUKUHIVA
APPENDIX.
MANUSCRIPT LEFT AT NUKUHIVA BY CAPTAIN FINCH.
THE United States ship Vincennes , having- visited the ports of Taiohae and Oomi,*both in the island of Nukuhiva — having spent fifteen days thereat, and now being about to depart — I take occasion to state, for the information of subsequent visitors, that on my arrival I was strongly importuned for muskets,, powder, flints, and other warlike weapons and muni- tions ; but that I abstained from giving any thing of the kind, as I soon discovered that a war was raging among the different clans.
I have found the chiefs and natives obliging to us, but a little troublesome, from the number that desired to come on board ; and in this respect both our patience and forbearance have been tested. All persons, however, were excluded at night.
I have seen the principal chiefs of four settlements ; have had conferences with them; recommended
* The bay of Oomi is very narrow, and rather hazardous, difficult of ingress and egress. Myself and officers visited the bays of Ha- kapaa and Hakahaa in boats.
BY CAPTAIN FINCH. 353
peace to them; pointed out their individual, general, and local interests ; charged them to be correct and honest in their deportment towards all foreigners, particularly trading vessels which may visit them ; and they have faithfully promised a compliance with my injunctions.
We have wooded and watered here, as has also a French merchant ship, called the Duchess of Berri, the master of which vessel adopted the same regula- tions, and followed the same course of treatment towards the chiefs and all other natives that I pur- sued. He arrived a day or two after us, and sailed again some days ago.
In return for wood, water, hogs, cocoa-nuts,bread, fruit, &c., we have given cotton cloths, both plain and coloured, axes, knives, chisels, files, and other useful tools; also combs, tobacco, and old clothes.
I am aware of only a few instances of dishonesty or theft, and these occurred principally among the Taipiis.
Although our reception and treatment have been apparently most cordial, yet I recommend vigilance and circumspection, and not too ready a confi- dence in the natives.*
A very decent, well-behaved man called Wil- liam Morrison, who is thoroughly acquainted with the language of the island, has been of very essential service in my intercourse. He is here col- lecting sandal-wood.
* As a precautionary measure of security I required the pre- sence of a high chief on board ship while free intercourse was taking place with the shore.
354 MMMARY OF THE CRUISE
Haape is the principal proprietor and chief of the bay of Taiohae : he is also regent, and the guardian of the orphan boy Moana, who is by inheritance the rightful king or high chief of the whole island; and will be so acknowledged, I presume, when he attains manhood. W. C. B. FINCH.
Nukuhiva, August 1 1th 1829.
SUMMARY OF THE CRUISE,
BY CAPTAIN FINCH.
IN the fulfilment of my orders, I pursued the route most familiar to commerce since the days of the ear- liest navigators: of course, nothing original has been elicited by it, in a geographical point. I was not on a voyage of discovery ; my instructions were specific, and the unlocked for extension of an already long cruise, forbade delays at any place where I might touch, or any deviation, in attaining the respective goals appointed, at the quickest period — both in re- gard to the apposite season for the respective pas- sages, and good faith and observance of the renewed terms of engagement with th'e ship's company. Yet, professionally, the result is, a confirmation in part of the remarks and information communicated by Cap- tain Jones of the Peacock, in so much that our tracks were similar; and the independent ascertainment (almost to acertainty)of the non-existence ofCaroline
BY CAPTAIN FINCH. 355
Island,* (northward of the Society cluster ,) in the situation assigned to it upon Arrowsmith's chart of 1 798 ; and of two other nameless ones, in east longi- tude, (supposed recent discoveries,) immediately to the westward of the Sandwich group, which are im- portant facts. Had they existed, as described, the Vincennes must have met them, for she literally passed over the space which is allotted to their oc- cupancy. So further onward, in the Indian Ocean, she ran for, and passed within a short distance of a supposed shoal, mentioned as having been seen from the ship Suffolk, in 1827-
These islands and shoals, it is to be remarked, are stated as being in the way in which a vessel has unavoidably to go, in performing the circuit which the Vincennes has accomplished ; and alone furnish (separate from other considerations) an almost suffi- cient inducement for our government to fit out an expedition for the exclusive determination of doubtful islands, in the routes pursued by our numerous and enterprizing merchants and traders. If islands exist, there may be also reefs, shoals, and breakers. The removal of uncertainty on these heads would relieve navigators from some solicitude, which under the most favoring circumstances, is already suf- ficiently great ; and would also facilitate the voyages in which they might be engaged. The presumed existence of a spot of land in one's route, produces a
* It is not meant to be implied, that there is no such island as the Caroline. I believe that the United States' schooner Dolphin touched at it. The conclusion only is, that it is laid down erroneously on the charts.
356 SUMMARY OF THE CRUISE
perplexing- circumspection, which often causes a de- viation from a direct path, reduction of canvas, rate of sailing, loss of favourable winds, exhaustion of supplies, discontent, and probable disappointment in a market, &c.
The Vincennes' voyage will serve to correct a very general and common error — that it is an easy one to a vessel, and of a duration to be computed with preci- sion. Neither is the fact None is more trying to a ship's hull, qualities, rigging, and spars; and only such vessel as is most perfect ought to undertake it. The winds are not to be relied upon with any con- fidence, either as to the actual points whence they may blow ; when or where to be met with ; or as to their strength and continuance. In this opinion my Diary bears me out fully. We may have been unfortunate in the season, (however, old sailors atOahu said it was the best;) for truly I never saw rougher seas or stronger blows any where, than we frequently met to the west ward of the Ladrone Islands, in the northern part of the Chinese Sea, to the westward of Java- Head, and near the banks of Agulhas. If the weather had been of freezing temperature, the ship could scarcely have been taken care of or managed.
The opportunity which has been enjoyed by the officers of personal acquaintance with places, inspec- tion of coasts and ports, and the knowledge acquired as to the stores, supplies, and refreshments to be ob- tained,are considerations of weight ; and in the event of war, or other enterprizes, may avail the nation greatly. Another result is, the demonstration of the practicability of preserving, for a very long period of
BY CAPTAIN FINCH. 357
confinement at sea, a crowded crew, in an accustom- ed state of health.
If another vessel should return home from the western coast of America by the way of the Islands in the Pacific ocean — (a frigate ought not to be ordered; because the islands, except Oahu, do not afford proper harbours and shelter; and there the water is too shoal for a frigate) — it will be useful to allow her more time, and to start sooner, say in April, than the Vincennes. It might prove beneficial also to give her a latitude for observation, so as to pass over those routes of trade which are adopted, when the regular season by the established channels has been forfeited — I mean what is termed the eastern passage to and from China and India, and the various straits conducting to these countries. For this purpose, however, a ship ought to be more especially found and furnished in all particulars than the Vincennes was, which vessel was adapted for the purposes of a stationary cruiser only — that is, her operations were originally expected to be confined to a limited extent of a well known coast. That the Vincennes has seen nothing remarkable, is to be attributed to the fact, that there now remains, in her route, nothing wonderful to be seen ; but the field is yet open for the confirmation or refutation of what has already been declared to have been seen or met with. The good effects of the tour, in other respects, can be best de- duced (and will at once exhibit themselves), from the various reports which I have made, and the commu-
* Pacific is certainly a misnomer.
358 SUMMARY OF THE CRUISE.
nications of other persons which accompany my statements and remarks. Respectfully submitted.
W. C. B. FINCH, At Sea, May 20M, 1830.
The Hon. the Secretary of the "Navy.
THE END.
Printed by
.1. t- COX & SON, «HKAT Q17KEN STREET,
ondon
; - T. MAT lo
University of Toronto Library
DO NOT
REMOVE
THE
CARD
FROM
THIS
Acme Library Card Pocket LOWE-MARTIN CO. LIMITED