THE

VOYAGE OF THE
"DISCOVERY'

f J*'"

\w^

4.

:APT. ROBERT F.
SCOTT, R.N.

Given in Loving Memory of

Raymond Braislin Montgomery

Scientist, R/V Atlantis maiden voyage
2 July - 26 August, 1931

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

Physical Oceanographer

1940-1949

Non-Resident Staff

1950-1960

Visiting Committee

1962-1963

Corporation Member

1970-1980

Faculty, New York University

1940-1944

Faculty, Brown Universit}'

1949-1954

Faculty, Johns Hopkins University

1954- 1961

Professor of Oceanography,

Johns Hopkins University

1961-1975

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.^<JX

THE VOYAGE

OF

THE 'DISCOVERY'
VOL. I.

N:(|| i\i,i(,i| I ()N A l''R()ZKN SI'. A.

[Skk Pack 272.

THE

VOYAGE OF
THE 'DISCOVERY

BY

CAPTAIN ROBERT F. SCOTT

C.V.O.. R.N.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS

NEW EDITION

IN TWO VOLUMES

'^'T^\

VOL. I.

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W3#

NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

LONDON : SMITH, ELDER, & CO.

1907

[All rights reserved]

TO
SIR CLEMENTS MARKHAM, K.C.B., F.R.S.

THE FATHER OF THE EXPEDITION
AND ITS MOST CONSTANT FRIEND

PREFACE

Strange as it may seem, the greater part of this story had
been enacted before I realised that it would devolve on me to
narrate it in book form.

When first I saw vaguely this unwelcome task before me
there was fresh in my mind not only the benefit which we had
derived from studying the records of former Polar voyages, but
the disappointment which we had sometimes suffered from the
insufficient detail which they provided. It appeared to me in
consequence that the first object in writing an account of a
Polar voyage was the guidance of future voyagers ; the first duty
of the writer was to his successors.

I have done my best to keep this object in view, and I give
this explanation because I am conscious that it has led me into
descriptive detail which will probably be tiresome to the ordi-
nary reader. As, however, such matter is more or less massed
into certain portions of the book, I take comfort from reflect-
ing that the interested reader will have no difficulty in avoiding
such parts as he may consider tedious.

I have endeavoured to avoid the use of technicalities, but
in all cases this has not been possible, as the English language
is poor in words descriptive of conditions of ice and snow. I
take the opportunity, therefore, of defining some technical
words that I have used freely.

Neve — the packed snow of a snow-field, an accumulation of
minute ice crystals. This word is, of course, well known to
mountaineers.

viii PREFACE

Nimatak — an island of bare land in a snow-field. Where
an ice-sheet overlies the land, the summits of hills thrust
through the sheet present this appearance.

Sastrugus — an irregularity formed by the wind on a snow-
plain. ' Snow- wave ' is not completely descriptive, as the
sastrugus has often a fantastic shape unlike the ordinary con-
ception of a wave.

Ice-foot — properly applied to the low fringe of ice formed
about Polar lands by the sea-spray. I have used the term
much more widely, and perhaps improperly, in referring to the
banks of ice of varying height which skirt many parts of the
Antarctic shores, and which have no connection with sea-
spray. Mr. Ferrar gives some description of these in his
remarks on ice in Appendix I.

Beyond explaining these few words I make no apology for
the style or absence of style of this book ; I have tried to tell
my tale as simply as possible, and I launch it with the con-
fidence that my readers will be sufficiently indulgent to its
faults in remembering the literary inexperience of its writer.

For me the compilation of these pages has been so weighty
a matter that I must always feel the keenest gratitude to those
who assisted me in the task. I cannot think that the manu-
script would ever have been completed but for the advice and
encouragement I received from its publisher, Mr. Reginald
Smith, nor can I forget to thank Sir Clements Markham and
other friends for hints and criticisms by which I profited, and
Mr. Leonard Huxley for his judicious provision of the ' hooks
and eyes ' to many a random sentence. How much I owe to
those of my comrades who are responsible for the originals of
the illustrations, will be evident.

R. F. S.

Attgttst 2%th, 1905.

CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME

CHAPTER I

HISTORICAL

Attention first drawn to Antarctic Regions by Delineation of Map
Makers — Earliest References to Climatic Conditions — Varthema —
Vasco da Gama — Drake — Quiros — Tasman — Kerguelen — Cook —
Bellingshausen — Weddell— Biscoe — Balleny — D'Urville — Wilkes
— Ross— Later Expeditions — 'Challenger' Expedition and Re-
sult— Inception of National Antarctic Expedition — Sir Clements
Markham — Action of Societies — Mr. Longstaff — Decision to build
new Ship — My own Appointment — Finance Committee — Naval
Crew— Purchase of Stores .......

CHAPTER n

PREPARATION

Ships of former Polar Voyages — Ship Committee — Design of the
'Discovery' — Choice of a Name — Description of the Ship — Mag-
netic Observatory — Living Spaces — Holds, &c. — Sails— Launch
of the Ship — The Officers appointed — The Warrant Ofiicers — The
Men — Division of the Antarctic Regions— Prospect of Victoria
Quadrant — The Instructions — Acknowledgment of Assistance

X THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

CHAPTER III

VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND

PAGR

Arrival at Cowes — Visit of the King — Sailing from Cowes — Madeira
— Crossing the Line— South Trinidad — Arrival at the Cape —
Simon's Bay— At Sea in the Westerlies — Alarm of Fire — First
Encounter with the Ice — Southern Birds — Macquarie Island —
Lyttelton, New Zealand — Preparations for Final Departure — De-
parture from Lyttelton — Fatal Accident — Final Departure from
Civilisation .......... 65

CHAPTER IV

SOUTHWARD HO !

Steering to the South — Fog — Icebergs— Entering Pack-ice — Life in
the Pack — Nature of Pack— Slow Progress— 'Watering Ship ' —
Southern Edge of Pack — The Ross Sea — First Sight of Victoria
Land — Cape Adare — Danger in the Pack — Coalman Island —
Heavy Gale — Landing in Lady Newnes Bay — Killing Seals —
Wood Bay — Cape Washington — Coasting South — Landing in
Granite Harbour — A Well-sheltered Spot — McMurdo Sound —
Stopped by the Pack — Turning to the East .... 86

CHAPTER V

ALONG THE GREAT BARRIER

Strange Footprints— Landing under Mount Terror —The Last Record
Left — Along the Great Barrier— New Land —Foggy Weather —
Surrounded by Bergs — We Lose our Bearings — Decision to Turn
Back — Good View of King Edward's Land — Landing on the
Barrier — Balloon Ascent — Return to Victoria Land . . .121

CHAPTER VI

FINDING WINTER QUARTERS : A FATAL ACCIDENT

In McMurdo Sound — A Glacier Tongue — Landing South of Erebus
— Selection of Winter Quarters — Prospects — Difficulty in Main-
taining our Station — Erection of Huts — Amusements — A Trip to
White Island — Sledge Party to the Cape Crozier Record— Acci-
dent to Returning Sledge Party — Fatal Result to poor Vince —
Results of Search Parties — Frost-bites— Wonderful Escape of
Hare — Visit to Danger Slope . . . . . . .152

CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME xi

CHAPTER VII

PREPARING FOR WINTER

PAGE

Delay in Freezing-up of the Ship — Dog Troubles —Return of Royds —
Local Weather Conditions— Last Sledging Effort of the Season —
Advantage of Experience — Preparing for Winter — Winter Arriving
— Meteorological Screen — Tidal Observations — Magnetic Huts —
Capturing Crab-eaters — Emperor Penguin Hunt — Departure of
the Sun i88

CHAPTER VIII

THE POLAR WINTER

Winter Routine — Obtaining Water — Meals and Meal-hours — Pas-
times— Officers' Routine — Debates — Exercise — Work of the
Officers — Weather Conditions — Heavy Blizzard and its Effects —
Incidents of the Winter — Winter Clothing — Remarks on our
Food — Sunday Routine— Discomforts of the Living-quarters from
Ice — Heating and Ventilation — Mid-winter Day . , 216

CHAPTER IX

WINTER PASSING AWAY

Our Settlement in Winter— The Large Hut— Lighting Arrangements
on Board — Prevention of Fire — A Night on Duty — Smoking
Habits — The 'South Polar Times' — Aurora Australis — Mishap
to our Boats — Moonlight Effects — Lost in a Blizzard — Theatrical
Entertainments — Nigger Minstrels — Increase of Light — New
Arrivals— Concerning the Dogs — Return of the Sun — View from
our Hills — Walks in Daylight — Preparations for Sledging — Ready
to Start 256

CHAPTER X

HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING

History of Polar Sledge Travelling — Early English Sledge Travellers
— Ross — McClintock — Peary — Nansen — Visit to Christiania —
Difficulties in Selecting Articles of Equipment — Comparison of
Sledging Conditions in the North and South Polar Regions —
Objects of the Sledge Traveller — Description of our Equipment
—The Sledge— The Tent— The Sleeping-bag— Sledging-food—

xii THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY

PAGE

Calculation of Allowances — Packing — Cooking-apparatus —
Cooking-lamp — Permanent Weights of a Sledge Party — Spare
Clothing — Medical Bag — Details concerning Clothing and
General Equipment ......... 298

CHAPTER XI

TYPICAL SLEDGING EXPERIENCES

Use of Dogs for Sledging — A Discussion of their Merits —History
of our Dog Team — Discomforts of Sledge Travelling — Typical
Experiences — The Ordinary Routine — Result of a Blizzard —
Benefit of Summer Temperatures — Disadvantages of Summer —
The Fascination of Sledging ....... 340

CHAPTER XII

THE SPRING JOURNEYS OF 1902

Spring Sledging Plans — Start of Sledging Season — Parties leave the
Ship — Submarine Ice — Start on Southern Reconnaissance — An
Inopportune Blizzard — Return to the Ship — Fresh Start — Journey
to the Bluff — Difficult Travelling — Placing the Depot— Rapid
Return — Report of Outbreak of Scurvy — Experiences of Western
Party — Steps taken to Combat the Disease — Some Remarks on
the Nature of Scurvy — Causes which may have Led to our Out-
break— Impossibility of Determining its Exact Origin — Prospects
of Future South Polar Expeditions in this Respect . . . 374

ILLUSTRATIONS

IN

THE FIRST VOLUME

Moonlight on a Frozen Sea (Coloured Plate) . . Frontispiece

From a Water-colour Drawing by Dr. Edivard A. Wilson.

'Discovery' on Stocks — Exterior View]
Do. Interior View )

From Photograplis, by kind permission of Valentine &^ Sons, Ltd.

The Penguins' Road . . . )

I- ... ,, io8

Facing p. 42

I ,114

Cape Wadworth : Coulman Island)

South Coast of Cape Washington)

Granite Harbour

Ship in Balloon Inlet)

\ ..... . ,, 144

Ready to Go Up . .)

'Nunatak' of Rock near the Table Ranges)

The ' Belleisle ' Berg ) " ' "

From Dra'tvings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.

Winter Quarters. Bay Clear of Ice . . . ,, 164

Wind and Drift ,, 236

From a Drawing by Dr. Edward A . Wilson.

Exercise while the Light Lasts . . ." . ,, 240
Caught in a Blizzard ,, 274

From a Drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.

The Result of Ice Pressure from the South . ,, 284
Ship at the End of the Winter .... ,, 296

Spring Sledging Camp . .]
Setting the Tent in a BlizzardJ

From Drawings by Dr. Edward A . Wilson.

Chart of the Antarctic Ocean Facingp. 410

THE SHIP'S COMPANY.

Officers.

Albert B. Armhage, Lieut. R.N.R.

Charles W. R. Royds, Lieut. R.N.

Michael Barne, Lieut. R.N.

Ernest H. Shackleton, S. Lieut. R.N.R.

George F. A. Mulock, S. Lieut. R.N.

Reginald W. Skelton, Lieut. (E.) R.N.

Reginald Koettlitz, surgeon and botanist.

Edward A. Wilson, surgeon, artist, vertebrate zoologist.

Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist.

Hartley T. Ferrar, geologist.

Louis C. Bernacchi, physicist.

Warrant Officers {all R.N.).
Thomas A. Feather, boatswain.
James H. Dellbridge, 2nd engineer.
Fred. E. Dailey, carpenter.
Charles R. Ford, ship's steward.

Petty Officers.
Jacob Cross, P.O. i, R.N.
Edgar Evans, P.O. 2, R.N.
William Smythe, P.O. i, R.N.
David Allan, P.O. i, R.N.
Thomas Kennar, P.O. 2, R.N.

Marines.
Gilbert Scott, Private R.M.L.L
A. H. Blissett, Private R.M.L.L

Civilian.
Chas. Clarke, ship's cook.

Seajiien.
Arthur Pilbeam, L.S. R.N.
William L. Heald, A.B. R.N.
James Dell, A.B. R.N.
Frank Wild, A.B. R.N.
Thomas S. Williamson, A.B. R.N
George B. Croucher, A.B. R.N.
Ernest E. Joyce, A.B. R.N.
Thomas Crean, A.B. R.N.
Jesse Handsley, A.B. R.N.
William J. Weller, A.B.

Stokers.
William Lashly, Ig. stoker R.N.
Arthur L. Quartley, Ig. stoker R.N.
Thomas Whitfield, Ig. stoker R.N.
Frank Plumley, stoker R.N.

R. F. SCOTT, Captain.

CHAPTER I

HISTORICAL

Attention first drawn to Antarctic Region by Delineation of Map
Makers — Earliest References to Climatic Conditions — Varthema —
Vasco da Gama — Drake — Quiros — Tasman — Kerguelen — Cook —
Bellingshausen — Weddell — Biscoe — Balleny — D'Urville — Wilkes —
Ross — Later Expeditions — ' Challenger ' Expedition and Result —
Inception of National Antarctic Expedition — Sir Clements Markham
— Action of Societies — Mr. Longstaff — Decision to build new Ship —
My own Appointment — Finance Committee — Naval Crew — Purchas-
of Stores.

Till then they had deemed that the Austral earth
With a long unbroken shore
Ran on to the Pole Antarctic,

For such was the old sea lore. — Rennell Rodd.

A BIBLIOGRAPHY of the Arctic Regions would occupy a large
volume ; that of the Antarctic Regions compiled by Dr. H. R.
Mill in 1 90 1 contained 878 references, and included all books,
pamphlets, and maps even remotely touching the subject that
had been published in any country. This great difference in
the published matter relating to the two ends of our globe
justly represented the relative knowledge concerning them in
1901, to whatever extent the disproportion has been modified
since that year.

The history of the Arctic Regions stretches back for many
centuries, to the adventurous voyage of Oht-here, the friend
of King Alfred, and to the exploits of the Norsemen in
Greenland ; the history of the Antarctic Regions commences
at a much later period, and attention was drawn to them, not

VOL. I. B

2 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY

so much by the voyages of discoverers as by the persistent
delineations of a great Southern continent by the map makers.
The idea of this conjectural continent probably arose at a very
early date, and when there was much excuse for such a view ;
but it was retained with extraordinary pertinacity throughout
several centuries, being held long after the voyages of many
navigators had disproved the existence of parts and thrown
strong doubt on the accuracy of the whole conception.

Ortelius, in his ' Typus orbis terrartim,' published in 1570,
boldly draws the coast of ' Terra australis nondum cognita '
round the world and well to the north, even crossing the
Tropic of Capricorn in two places. The editions of Mercator
follow this delineation pretty exactly down to the one published
by Hondius in Amsterdam in 1623, and although the famous
map of the world prepared for Hakluyt in 1599 has the merit
of omitting the Southern continent as unauthenticated, the
fictitious coastline continued to appear in later maps and
naturally attracted the attention of enterprising navigators.

There are three legends on the Southern continent of
Ortelius's map : one is to the effect that it is named by some
the Magellanic Region ; the second tells us that the Portuguese
called the part south of the Cape '■ Psittacorum regio ' (region
of parrots), because of the incredible number of these birds ;
and the third, opposite to Java, refers to Marco Polo and
Varthema for statements of very extensive land to the south.
At this time a fanciful idea prevailed among cartographers that
there must be a great mass of land to the south to balance the
known land to the north.

The earliest references to the climatic conditions of the
Antarctic Regions are perhaps to be found in the statement
of Amerigo Vespucci ; this famous person acted as pilot of a
Portuguese expedition which, after surveying the coast of Brazil
in 1 50 1, is supposed to have sailed to the south and to have
sighted the land of South Georgia, of which Vespucci remarks :
' A rocky coast without any port or inhabitants. I believe this
was because the cold was so great that no one in the fleet
could endure it.' Another curious indication of the same

EARLY IDEAS OF THE SOUTH 3

nature is to be found in the conversation which the Italian
traveller Ludovico di Varthema, referred to by Ortelius, had
with the Malay captain who took him to Java in 1506. The
skipper knew how to steer by the compass and by a certain star
of the Southern hemisphere as well as by the pole-star. He
told Varthema of a region far beyond Java where the day only
lasted for four hours, and said that it was colder than any other
part of the world. Varthema concludes his account of the
conversation by saying, ' We were pleased and satisfied ' !

The manner in which the veil of mystery was first lifted
from the Southern hemisphere was naturally enough by the
extension of exploration along the coastlines of the Northern
land masses, but it was long before the facts thus ascertained
ceased to be distorted by cartographers. The circumnavigation
of the Cape by Vasco da Gama in 1497 did not extend
sufficiently far south to upset calculations greatly, but when
in 1520 Magellan discovered the strait which bears his name,
Tierra del Fuego, to the south, was at once seized upon as an
evident part of the Terra australis, and its coasts were unhesi-
tatingly joined to the main outline of that continent. And
when Sir Francis Drake in 1577 ' came finally to the uttermost
part of the land towards the South Pole ; the extreme cape or
cliff lying nearly under 56° S., beyond which neither continent
nor island was to be seen ; indeed the Atlantic and the Pacific
Oceans here unite in the free and unconfined open,' his dis-
covery seems to have been completely misrepresented, and his
accounts were garbled in such a manner as to have taken
centuries to unravel.

How complete was the ignorance of Southern conditions at
the commencement of the seventeenth century can be gathered
from the voyage of Quiros. Pedro Fernandez de Quiros was
a Portuguese pilot in the Spanish service ; favoured by the
Pope Clement VIII., he obtained an order from the King of
Spain, Philip III., to prosecute a voyage to annex the South
Polar continent and to convert its inhabitants to the true faith.
He sailed from Callao in 1605 and steered to the W.S.W., but
after proceeding a month on this course his heart failed him.

4 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

and in latitude 26 S. he turned to the W.N.W. On this track
he discovered the largest of the New Hebrides group, named
it ' Australia del Espiritu Santo,' and, firmly believing it to be
part of the Southern continent, solemnly annexed it, with the
South Pole itself, to the crown of Spain !

Of the early voyages of the seventeenth century, that of the
Dutchmen Schouten and Le Maire in 1616 went to establish
Drake's discovery of the meeting of Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans south of Cape Horn, and to curtail the extent of the
Southern continent in this direction ; but more important was
the voyage of Tasman, who actually set forth in search of the
continent, and in 1642, after crossing the Indian Ocean
between the latitudes of 45 and 49 S., discovered Tasmania
and the northern island of New Zealand. This was a heavy
blow to the theory of a great Southern continent, because it
was in this region that its most northerly extension had been
suggested by the early cartographers, and Tasman showed that
it could not lie much beyond the 50th parallel either in the
Indian Ocean or to the south of Australia, then known as New
Holland. How slowly even important information of this
sort must have travelled in those days is shown by the fact
that in 1660, when Wells published his ' new set of maps,' he
says : ' New Holland is esteemed to be part of the Southern
unknown continent.'

The result of these voyages was to give a great impetus to
others ; especially it encouraged ships to venture to make the
passage about Cape Horn, and this in turn led to a consider-
able increase of knowledge in this region. Voluntarily or
involuntarily ships attained a comparatively high latitude
reaching the 62nd or 63rd parallel, and, for the first time
encountering the great Southern icebergs, obtained some idea
of the severity of the Southern Regions.

But the idea of a great and populous Southern continent,
though weakened, was by no means dissipated, and the
eighteenth century saw several expeditions despatched in
search of it. Of these, some of the most important were the
French ventures under Bouvet, Marion du Frezne, and De

JAMES COOK 5

Kerguelen-Tremarec, which led to the discovery of Bouvet
Island, the Crozets, and Kerguelen, and collected much
further evidence to show the great extent of the Southern Seas.

During the latter half of the eighteenth century there came
a marked change in the objects which were set before the
Southern voyagers. Hitherto men seemed to have thought of
little but the aggrandisement of themselves or their State by
the discovery of some new America ; but now for the first
time we find an eagerness in exploration for its own sake.
Science had made rapid strides, and it was felt that its ends
should be furthered by a completer knowledge of the distribu-
tion of land and water on our globe, and by an investigation
of natural phenomena in its less-known regions. This new
view of exploration was held most strongly in France and
England, and both Marion and Kerguelen in their voyages in
1771-2 were accompanied by a staff of learned men whose
sole object was to add to the scientific knowledge of the
regions visited. Curiously enough, the last of these voyagers,
starting as he did under these more favourable conditions for
exploration, succeeded in retarding rather than in advancing
the cause of geography, for he interpreted the island which
bears his name as part of a larger land mass, and boldly con-
cluded that the great Southern continent had at last been
found.

But this error, with many another, was soon to be rectified,
and the whole mythical conception of the Southern continent
to be swept away once and for all, when the great English
navigator James Cook made known the results of his famous
voyages. To give even a summary of the far-reaching effects
of these wonderful voyages is beyond the scope of this chapter,
but it may be briefly noted how each bore on the Antarctic
problem that is before us.

In his first voyage, in 1768, Cook circumnavigated New
Zealand and laid down the eastern coast of New Holland, thus
definitely cutting off these lands from any connection with the
Southern Regions ; this alone cleared up great misconceptions,
but speculative geography continued to suggest that there was

6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

a continent further to the south, and finally Cook undertook to
set the matter definitely at rest by a second voyage. This
voyage is the most important incident in the history of
Antarctic research, and may therefore be given in outline.

Cook sailed from Deptford in 1772 with two ships, the
' Resolution,' 462 tons, and the ' Adventure,' 336 tons. From
the Cape he steered due south, and in spite of icebergs, fogs,
and stormy weather, boldly pushed on to the 58th parallel,
where he turned to the S.E. On January 17, 1773, he suc-
ceeded in crossing the Atitarctic Circle for the first time, in longi-
tude 38 E. Finding his progress blocked by ice, he turned
again to the N.E., but not without giving us the impression
that he must have been the first to see that icy barrier which
appears to fringe the greater part of the Antarctic lands.

Passing to the south of Kerguelen, he showed the very
limited dimensions of that island, and reached the 62nd
parallel in longitude 95 E. Thence he continued more or less
in the same high latitude to the 148th meridian, where he
turned towards New Zealand. In November of the same year
he again steered to the south, and reached the 60th parallel in
174 W. ; constantly repulsed by the ice, he fought his way on
east and south ; in longitude 142 W. he crossed the Antarctic
Circle a second time, but so arduous had been the labour of
working the ship continuously among the ice that he was
obliged to retreat to the north to give his crew some rest. It
was not for long, however, for towards the end of January he
was again on the Antarctic Circle in longitude 109 W. This
time he was able to push on still further to the south, and it
was not until he had reached latitude 71.10 S. in longitude
107 W, that he was forced to turn. What Cook actually saw
in this advanced position is a matter of great interest ; he
describes a belt of pack with an unbroken sheet of ice beyond,
which appeared to him to rise in level and in which he counted
ninety-seven ice-hills. He does not definitely state that he saw
ice-covered land, but many authorities have believed that his
description could mean nothing else; with some experience
of the deceptive appearances of ice masses, however, I am

COOK'S VOYAGES 7

inclined to think that the evidences are by no means sufficient
to support this view.

After turning, Cook retreated to the north, and spent the
winter amongst the Pacific Islands ; in November he once
more turned south and made his way towards Cape Horn
between the parallels of 50 and 60 S., and thus for the first
time traversed the Pacific in a high southern latitude. After
doing much valuable surveying work in the region of Cape
Horn and South Georgia, he again steered to the east, and
now crossing the Atlantic in a high latitude, between 58 and
60 S., he finally returned to the Cape.

The importance of this voyage can scarcely be exaggerated ;
once and for all the idea of a populous fertile Southern conti-
nent was proved to be a myth, and it was clearly shown that
whatever land might exist to the south it must be a region of
desolation hidden beneath a mantle of ice and snow. The
vast extent of the tempestuous Southern Seas was revealed,
and the limits of the habitable globe were made known. Inci-
dentally it may be remarked that Cook was the first to describe
the peculiarities of the Antarctic icebergs and floe-ice.

One might pause here to consider the extent of human
knowledge as regards the Antarctic Regions at the end of the
eighteenth century after Cook's voyages, because it can be
stated with brevity. The ocean was known to encircle the
world completely about the 60th parallel ; beyond this lay a
region of icebergs and intense cold ; attempts to penetrate this
inhospitable region had seemed to show that in many places
ships might force their way to the Antarctic Circle, but at
about this latitude they were stopped by impenetrable
obstacles ; if land lay beyond this, it was, in Cook's words, as
' countries condemned to everlasting rigidity by nature, never
to yield to the warmth of the sun, for whose wild and desolate
aspect I find no words.' Generally speaking, therefore, people
had come to the conclusion that if land existed beyond the
60th parallel, it was not of much account.

After the return of Cook no important expedition was sent
to the Southern Seas until 181 9, when Bellingshausen sailed

8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

from Kronstadt with two well-equipped vessels. The object
of this voyage was to emulate the achievement of Cook in
circumnavigating the globe in a high southern latitude, and
well was this mission fulfilled. With wonderful pertinacity
the intrepid Bellingshausen again and again steered his ships to
the south, and he succeeded no fewer than six times in cross-
ing the Antarctic Circle. Although he did not reach such a
high latitude as his predecessor, on the whole his course lay to
the southward, and he still further narrowed the limits of the
southern land which had been so greatly reduced by Cook.
Further, Bellingshausen was the first definitely to discover land
within the Antarctic Circle. In the longitude of 90 W. he saw
a small island which he named Peter I. Island, whilst farther
to the eastward he sighted in the distance a more extensive
coast which he called Alexander I. Land. Unfortunately,
little is known of Bellingshausen's voyage, as the narrative was
never translated into English from the original Russian.

As regards the Southern Seas the early years of the
nineteenth century were memorable for the development ot
the great whaling and sealing industries which flourished for
half a century, and passed away only with the practical
extermination of the animals on which they depended. It is
strange to think that regions which before Cook's famous
voyage were utterly unknown to man should have so speedily
become the scenes of great activity, but no sooner was the
existence of whales and seals in the Southern Seas reported
than hundreds of English and American adventurers crowded
in pursuit of them, and as late as 1840 it was reported that
there were no fewer than 400 vessels occupied in this manner.

Amongst the owners of these vessels were men of broad
public spirit, and the captains who commanded them in-
cluded not a few of larger intelligence or more liberal education,
who were keenly interested in the prosecution of geographical
discovery. Conspicuous amongst the former were the famous
firm of Enderby, who instructed the commanders of their
ships never to neglect an opportunity for discovery and
exploration, and who more than once sent forth an expedition

WORK OF THE WHALERS AND SEALERS 9

largely for that purpose ; whilst amongst the more enterprising
commanders may be named Weddell, Biscoe, and Balleny.
The result of this enhghtenment was to add considerably to
our knowledge of the Southern Regions.

The most important voyage made in these circumstances
was that of James Weddell. After doing some excellent
surveying work among the Southern islands in 1823, Weddell,
in his small brig the 'Jane,' and accompanied by the cutter
' Beaufoy,' crossed the Antarctic Circle in longitude 32 W.,
and, passing innumerable bergs, found himself in an open sea,
through which he sailed, and eventually reached a latitude
of 74.15 S., more than three degrees to the south of Cook's
farthest point. In this position, and when he could see
nothing to the south but the clear sea horizon, he was forced
to turn on account of the state of his crew and his provisions.
For nearly twenty years this remained the most southerly
point reached, and the extraordinarily open condition of the
sea as reported by Weddell has rendered the region to this day
one of the most fascinating to which prospective explorers can
turn their thoughts.

Biscoe was one of Enderby's officers, and had been a mate
in the Royal Navy. Like Weddell's, his voyage was made in
a small brig, the ' Tula,' accompanied by a tiny cutter, the
' Lively.' He crossed the Antarctic Circle in longitude 2 E.,
and succeeded in running to the eastward on an exceedingly
high latitude. On February 25, 1831, he discovered an ice-
barrier which he likened in height and appearance to the
North Foreland. He added : ' It then ran away to the south-
ward with a gradual ascent, with a perfectly smooth surface,
and I could trace it in extent to at least 30 or 40 miles from
the foretop with a good telescope.' His ship at this time was
in latitude 66.2 S., longitude 43 W., but apparently he again saw
this icy barrier farther to the eastward and observed several
indications which denoted the proximity of land. It was this
coast to which he gave the name of Enderby Land. Biscoe
wintered in New Zealand, and in the following season he sailed
to the south again, and continuing his circumnavigation

lo THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

of the earth in a high latitude, discovered Graham Land,
which, although connected with lands already known to the
sealing community, gave a considerable extension to them.

Another voyage of great importance was made by John
Balleny, also under the auspices of the enterprising firm of
Enderby. Balleny started his voyage of discovery from New
Zealand, in 1839, sailing in a schooner, the 'Eliza Scott,' in
company with the cutter ' Sabrina.' He crossed the Antarctic
Circle in longitude 177 E., but, unlike former voyagers,
directed his course to the west instead of the east. On
February 9 he discovered the group of islands which bear his
name, and which I shall describe more fully in the course of
my narrative. From this region Balleny was obliged to steer
to the N.W., but later he was able to turn to the south again,
and on March 2, when in latitude 64.58 S., longitude 121 E.,
he made the following laconic entry in his log : ' Saw land to
the southward, the vessel surrounded by drift-ice.' On the
following day he noted ' every appearance of land,' and other
entries tell of the large number of birds seen. On such
slender evidence rests Sabrina Land, and yet after personally
demonstrating the accuracy of Balleny's observations with
reference to his islands, I should be sorry to undertake to sail
over the spot where he ' saw land to the southward.' Balleny
was evidently a man of few words, but of his ability as a
navigator there can be no doubt.

This ends a brief retrospect of the discoveries made in
connection with the whaling and sealing mdustries of the
south, and shows that it is entirely honourable to the commer-
cial enterprise of our country ; for to the disinterested exertions
of Mr. Charles Enderby and to the zeal of his officers was due
the discovery of Graham Land, Enderby Land, Sabrina Land,
Kemp Land, and the Balleny Islands, whilst with an English
sealer, Weddell, rested the honour of having achieved the
highest southern latitude.

The necessarily bald outline of fact which it is alone
possible to give in these pages can convey no idea of the
extraordinary hardships and difficulties successfully overcome

TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM ii

by these men. In the smallest and craziest ships they plunged
boldly into stormy ice-strewn seas ; again and again they
narrowly missed disaster; their vessels were wracked and
strained and leaked badly, their crews were worn out with
unceasing toil and decimated by scurvy. Yet in spite of
inconceivable discomforts they struggled on, and it does not
appear that any one of them ever turned his course until he
was driven to do so by hard necessity. One cannot read the
simple, unaffected narratives of these voyages without being
assured of their veracity, and without being struck with the
wonderful pertinacity and courage which they display.

In the light of subsequent events, it is convenient to pause
again at the close of Balleny's voyage to consider the further
extent of Antarctic discovery. It must now have appeared to
men that, after all, the South Polar area was occupied by land,
and that the coast of this land clung very persistently to the
Antarctic Circle. South of the Pacific, Cook and Bellings-
hausen had shown a dip towards the Pole, and south of the
Atlantic Weddell had indicated another deep bay; but south
of the Indian Ocean and of Australia it must have seemed
highly probable that the coastline followed the Circle with
little divergence. It can well be imagined, therefore, that
explorers who were about to sail to the south in this direction
must have been strongly disposed to expect land in that
latitude.

At about this time there sprang up a new motive to
encourage Polar exploration, in the shape of terrestrial mag-
netism. The development of this science had gradually
converted it into a subject of great interest, its practical
importance in connection with the navigation of ships was
now fully realised, and it was known that no complete study
could be made of its phenomena without extensive observa-
tions in the Polar Regions. Amongst the scientific men who
devoted their energies to achieve a more general recognition
of these facts were Humboldt and Sir Edward Sabine, and as
a result of their labours in 1838 the British Association
petitioned the Government to send a scientific expedition to

12 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

the Antarctic Regions. The Government responded nobly to
this petition, and organised an undertaking which was destined
to achieve the most brilliant results, and to open up the
Antarctic Regions in a manner which must have been wholly
unexpected by its promoters.

But whilst Captain James Ross, the commander of this
expedition, was diligently and carefully preparing and equipping
his ships for this great venture, two other expeditions of
importance had been despatched by other countries. One of
these had left the shores of France in 1837. It consisted of
two ships, ' L' Astrolabe and ' La Zelee,' under the command
of Dumont D'Urville, an experienced navigator. D'Urville
first descended on the Antarctic area in the region of Graham
Land, with the intent to follow Weddell's course and reach a
higher latitude ; but in this he was frustrated by the pack-ice,
and after making some minor discoveries in the neighbourhood
of Louis-Philippe Land and Joinville Island he returned to
pursue his investigations in milder climates. In the end of
1839 D'Urville was at Hobart Town, Tasmania, where for the
moment we will leave him and follow the fortunes of the other
and more imposing expedition, consisting of five vessels, which
left Chesapeake Bay in 1837 under the command of Commo-
dore Wilkes.

In relating the history ot the voyages of Wilkes and
D'Urville I touch only on those parts which have a relation to
the Antarctic Regions, though it must be understood that both
these expeditions pursued scientific investigations in other
parts of the world.

On reaching the Southern waters Wilkes divided his forces,
and whilst he turned his attention to minuter surveying work,
he sent the ' Peacock ' and ' Flying Fish ' south-west towards
Graham Land and Alexander Land. These vessels, after
much struggling with the ice, reached the vicinity of Peter I.
Island, but failed to attain a higher latitude than Bellingshausen
or Cook had previously done in this region. The close of the
season obliged them to retreat and rejoin the squadron without
the achievement of any important result.

D'URVILLE AND WILKES 13

Towards the close of 1839 Wilkes, like D'Urville, had
found shelter in Australian waters. By this time news of the
prospective British expedition had been spread abroad, and it
was known that, fully equipped for magnetic work, it proposed
to sail directly for the position assigned to the magnetic pole
by the calculations of the great German magnetician Gauss ;
this position was approximately in latitude 76 S., longitude
146 E. It was known also that Ross could not be in a
position to attempt to reach it until the following year. How
far Wilkes and D'Urville were guided by this information in
their future actions it is impossible to say; that they must
have received it is certain, and, considering that neither ex-
pedition was completely equipped for magnetic work, the fact
that both immediately set sail in the direction of the magnetic
pole must be regarded at least as showing questionable taste
on the part of the commanders.

D'Urville left Tasmania early in January 1840, and, after a
comparatively easy passage, on January 19, when in latitude
66 S., longitude 140 E., sighted land to the south. At first he
seems to have seen nothing but the long ice-barrier so typical
of Antarctic coasts, but later he found beneath the icy wall
eight or ten small islets on which his people were able to land
and to collect specimens of rock. He named this coast Adelie
Land, and, continuing his explorations to the west, again
sighted the ice-barrier somewhat more to the north, and
named it Cote Clarie. Satisfied with the result of his voyage,
D'Urville then turned to the north. Although it is to be
deplored that he did not take full advantage of the season to
continue his explorations, the discovery of Adelie Land was an
extremely important matter, and possesses a definition which
is sadly lacking in other reports.

Wilkes with his five ships sailed from Sydney at the end of
December 1839. His ships took various tracks, but he him-
self in the ' Vincennes ' reached latitude 66 S., longitude
158 E., on January 16, and at this point he claimed to have
first seen land to the south. Hence he cruised to the west-
ward, approximately on the latitude of the Antarctic Circle,

14 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

with a comparatively open sea to the north and masses of
pack-ice to the south ; and beyond the latter he again and
again claimed the discovery of high mountainous land. He
passed close to Ad^lie Land and Cote Clarie only a few days
after their first discovery by D'Urville, and, continuing his
course, alleged the discovery of further extensive lands to the
westward.

On his return to civilisation Wilkes claimed a vast dis-
covery. The courses of his ships had practically traversed an
arc of the Antarctic Circle of no less than 70°, and, although
he did not assert that he had seen land continuously south of
this arc, he reported its existence at such frequent intervals as
to leave little doubt that it was continuous.

At a later date a great controversy arose as to the accuracy
of Wilkes's observations, and resulted in much discredit being
thrown on work which in many respects was important.
Whilst there can be no possible object in attempting to revive
such a controversy, it is evident that the true geographical
conditions should be known, and therefore I make bold to
give my opinion of the matter. In the course of this narrative
I shall show that the mountainous lands reported by Wilkes to
the eastward of AdeUe Land do not exist, and it must be
recognised that those to the west may be equally unsubstantial,
but it is not clear that Wilkes wilfully perverted the truth;
only those who have been to these regions can reaUse how
constantly a false appearance of land is produced, and no
position could be more favourable to such an illusion than that
in which this expedition was placed when it skirted the edge
of a thick pack containing innumerable icebergs. It must be
supposed also, for reasons which I have given, that Wilkes, in
common with other explorers, expected to find land about the
Antarctic Circle, and when after his return he learned of
D'Urville's discoveries, the position of Adelie Land would
naturally have tended to dispel any doubt which he may have
had as to what he or his people had seen.

Wilkes's ships were ill adapted for battling with the ice,
and, apart from their discoveries, the fact that they continued

VOYAGE OF ROSS 15

so long in high latitudes reflects great credit on their naviga-
tion. Had he been more circumspect in his reports of land,
all would have agreed that his voyage was a fine performance.

Whilst Wilkes and D'Urville were pursuing their explora-
tions, Ross had sailed from England. James Ross had taken
part in the Northern voyages of Parry and of his uncle John
Ross ; in the course of these he had spent no fewer than eight
winters in the Arctic Regions, and he therefore brought an
unrivalled experience to the task of fitting out his Southern
command.

For the purposes of the expedition, two old bomb vessels
were chosen, the 'Erebus,' 370 tons, and the 'Terror,' 340
tons ; though slow sailers, these vessels had the advantage of
great structural strength, and when Ross had further fortified
their bows he possessed two ships capable of navigating
amongst the pack-ice, the first of such that had ever sailed for
the Southern Regions. Towards the end of the year 1840,
Ross arrived in Tasmania to learn that others had already
explored the route which he proposed to take. Whatever his
feelings may have been at the time, the incident proved
exceedingly fortunate, for it was this alone which decided him
to proceed south on a more easterly meridian, it being 'incon-
sistent with the traditions of British exploration to follow in
the footsteps of other nations.'

Sailing from Hobart in November, Ross reached the
Antarctic Circle on New Year's Day in longitude 171 E., and
at the same time found himself opposed by heavy masses of
pack-ice. Here was the critical point at which the course
taken by the expedition differed from that of its predecessors.
Up to this time such an obstacle would have been deemed
insuperable, and the older navigators would have sailed their
light ships along its edge ; Ross, with his heavy ships, plunged
directly into it and continued to buffet his way to the south.
Making all allowance for the fortified condition of the ships,
it was a bold stroke, and it met with the most ample reward.
After pushing onward for five days through the closely packed
floes, the vessels burst forth to the south into an open sea.

i6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

Remembering the main object of his journey, Ross steered to
the west towards the magnetic pole, and on January 8, 1841,
discovered the glorious mountainous country of Victoria
Land.

Ross's discoveries are so closely connected with my
narrative, that it is unnecessary to refer to them in detail
here. Twice he visited this great open sea, and the results of
these extraordinarily interesting voyages may be summed up as
follows : The high mountain ranges and the coastline of
Victoria Land were laid down with comparative accuracy from
Cape North in latitude 71 to Wood Bay in latitude 74, and
their extension was indicated less definitely to McMurdo Bay
in latitude 77^. In the same latitude, but slightly to the east-
ward, the lofty volcanoes of Erebus and Terror were dis-
covered, and the former was found to be active. Stretching
away to the eastward for 400 miles beyond these, Ross observed
that great wall of ice which he named the Great Barrier. At
the eastern end of this wall he achieved his highest latitude,
78.11 S., an advance of nearly four degrees on his predecessor
Weddell. Ross was not able to disembark on this great mass
of land which he had discovered, but managed to reach the
shore of some ofif-lying islands which he named the Possession
Islands.

There are many reasons why Ross's wonderful voyage
should not have attracted the wide popular interest which it
deserved, but when the extent of our knowledge before and
after it is considered, all must concede that it deserves to rank
among the most brilliant and famous that have been made.
After all the experiences and adventures in the Southern Seas
which I have briefly described, few things could have looked
more hopeless than an attack upon that great ice-bound region
which lay within the Antarctic Circle ; yet out of this desolate
prospect Ross wrested an open sea, a vast mountain region, a
smoking volcano, and a hundred problems of great interest to
the geographer ; in this unique region he carried out scientific
research in every possible department, and by unremitted
labour succeeded in collecting material which until quite lately

RETURN OF ROSS 17

has constituted almost the exclusive source of our knowledge
of magnetic conditions in the higher southern latitudes. It
might be said that it was James Cook who defined the Antarctic
Region, and James Ross who discovered it.

This great expedition is brought curiously close to our own
time when it is remembered that of those who took part in it
there is yet one survivor. The young assistant surgeon of the
' Erebus ' has become the renowned botanist and traveller Sir
Joseph Hooker, and has lived not only to take a share in
sending forth a second expedition to the same region, but to
welcome it back to our shores nearly sixty years after his own
return from the far south.

The ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ' reached the shores of England
in September 1843, and for fifty years the map of the Antarctic
remained practically unaltered, though during this period some
important light was shed on the general conditions of the
region, and the advance of science caused a gradual awakening
of interest in it. The results of the few voyages to the Antarctic
area during this long period, or indeed down to the close of
the nineteenth century, may be summed up in a very few
words.

Tempted by Sir James Ross's report of the large number of
whales seen during his voyage, in 1892 a number of Scotch
whalers set sail for the south, and touching the Antarctic lands
in the neighbourhood of Joinville Island, threw some further
light on that region ; but as they found no sign of the whales
which they sought, the voyage was commercially a failure, and
the vessels soon turned to the north again. In the following
year, however, Captain Larsen, of the whaler ' Jason,' bent on
much the same errand, managed to sail down the east coast of
Graham Land, and to reach a latitude of 68.10 S. in longitude
60 W, This voyage has been very little noticed, though from
a geographical point of view it is of great importance, as with
Biscoe's discovery to the west, it showed the attenuated form
which Graham Land possesses, at any rate until it is well south
of the Antarctic Circle. Looking over the whole Antarctic
area, 1 can scarcely see a place where geographical discovery
VOL. I. c

i8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

is more urgently needed than in the extension of this bold
effort of Larsen's.

Whilst Larsen pursued his investigations on the east coast
of Graham Land, his compatriot Evenson, in the ' Hertha,'
descended on the west side, and reached the high latitude of
69.10 S. in longitude 76 W. He sighted Alexander Land, but
unfortunately does not appear to have extended its coasts,
though there can be little doubt that it is connected with
Graham Land.

A similar object, the hope of discovering a whale fishery,
induced the veteran shipowner, Svend Foyn, of Tonsberg, to
send one of his ships, the * Antarctic,' to the Ross Sea area.
This resulted in the first landing on Victoria Land, which was
made by her captain, Christiansen, at Cape Adare in 1894.
Three years later Sir George Newnes sent an expedition to this
spot, under Mr. Borchgrevink ; the party landed safely, and
spent a winter in a hut which will be introduced to the reader
in the course of my narrative. Unfortunately this party did
not travel far from its base, and so was unable to throw any
light on the geographical conditions of the interior; but its
scientific observations were of importance, and its geological
collection especially interesting. Before leaving the south
Mr. Borchgrevink landed from his vessel, the 'Southern Cross,'
towards the eastern end of Ross's Great Ice Barrier, and thus
reached a higher latitude, by a few miles, than that achieved
by the great explorer.

Whilst Sir George Newnes's expedition was wintering at
Cape Adare, another band of explorers was living beyond the
Antarctic Circle in a widely different region. The energies of
M. de Gerlache had succeeded in equipping a small vessel, the
' Belgica,' for a Polar voyage, and this ship, passing down the
west coast of Graham Land through an unexplored channel,
had become beset in the ice to the south-west of Alexander
Land. Here, the first vessel to spend a winter beyond the
Antarctic Circle, she drifted to and fro throughout a long im-
prisonment. Reaching at one time a latitude of 71.30, she was
gradually carried to the westward, and at length freed near the

LATER NINETEENTH CENTURY VOYAGES 19

farthest point reached by Cook in 1773. Equipped with
modern apparatus and ideas, this expedition, if it did not add
greatly to geographical knowledge, contributed much by its
investigations in other scientific departments to the general
cause of Antarctic discovery.

But by far the most important event in the history of
Antarctic research, after the great voyage of Ross and before
the close of the nineteenth century, remains yet to be described.
This was the crossing of the Antarctic Circle by the famous
'Challenger' Expedition in 1874.

The ' Challenger,' under Sir George Nares, stood to the
south on the meridian of 80 E., and after crossing the Circle
turned to the north-east, and later to the east, remaining
altogether some three weeks in the region of icebergs. During
this time she pursued her customary employment of sounding
and dredging in the depths of the ocean, and here, as else-
where, this resulted in a rich harvest of fresh information.
Amongst the specimens thus secured were numerous rocks of
continental origin ; there could be no doubt that these had
been borne by ice from some Southern land, and therefore
they showed that continental land must exist within the
Antarctic Circle almost as conclusively as if the land itself had
been seen.

But the importance of the ' Challenger ' expedition as
regards the Antarctic Regions lay not so much in the dis-
coveries made as in the fact that they drew the attention of
scientific men to the interest of the problems which yet
remained to be solved in that area. From the return of this
famous expedition and the publication of its results dates that
revival of interest in the Far South which, fostered by a few
eminent men, continued to spread and culminated in the
despatch of the various expeditions which co-operated with the
* Discovery.'

This desire for further Antarctic research arose principally
in Germany and England, but in both countries it was equally
slow in arriving at a practical result. In Germany the repeated
and energetic representations of the great magnetician Georg

c 2

20 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

Neumayer gradually bore fruit, and resulted eventually in the
despatch of our German colleagues under Professor von
Drygalski in his good ship the ' Gauss.'

In England, whilst there were many Arctic explorers and
others who were keenly interested in the subject, it was the
written appeals of Sir John Murray that first secured for it a
wider appreciation. Soon after the completion of his labours
on that monumental work the ' Challenger ' publication. Sir
John Murray exerted his great abilities to stimulate a fresh
interest in the Southern Regions; in 1886 he pubhshed an
important treatise in the ' Scottish Geographical Journal,'
which led to the despatch of the Dundee whalers to which I
have alluded ; this in turn tended to direct further attention
to Southern exploration, and in 1893 Sir John read a second
paper to the London Geographical Society which still more
clearly and ably advocated the cause.

Meanwhile other events had occurred which, although
unproductive, were significant of the tendency of public
thought. In 1885 an Antarctic Committee was appointed by
the British Association, which two years later made a strong
report in favour of further exploration. In 1887 the Victorian
Government, through its agent Sir Graham Barry, offered to
join the Home Government in sending out an expedition, but
this scheme likewise fell through.

The actual birth of the ' Discovery ' Expedition may be
dated from July 1893, when Sir Clements Markham resolved
that an expedition should be sent. The extraordinary
strength and pertinacity of Sir Clements' character were
already well known to his intimates, and they at least must
have known that this resolve was momentous and signified
that by hook or by crook an expedition would go. In virtue
of his position as President of one of the greatest and
richest societies in the world, Sir Clements was favourably
placed for carrying out his determination, but few could
deny that in the years of struggle and difficulty which fol-
lowed, however ably and generously he was supported
by his colleagues and others, it was mainly through his own

INCEPTION OF THE EXPEDITION 21

unique, unconquerable personality that the expedition became
a living fact.

As a result of the discussion on Sir John Murray's paper
in November 1893, it was suggested that the Government
should be approached with a view to sending out an expedition
consisting of two ships. This proposal was supported by
many eminent men of science, including the late Duke of
Argyll, Sir Joseph Hooker, and the late Sir William Flower,
and by such naval officers as Admirals McClintock, Vesey
Hamilton, Hoskins, Colomb, Markham, and Lord Charles
Beresford. It was on this occasion that the Duke of Argyll
remarked on the incongruity of the fact that we knew more
about the planet Mars than about a large area of our own
globe.

The Council of the Royal Geographical Society therefore
appointed a special Antarctic Committee. In a lengthy
report the Committee enumerated the objects to be gained by
such an expedition, and concluded with the following words :
' Apart from the valuable scientific results of an Antarctic ex-
pedition, great importance must be attached to the excellent
effect that all such undertakings, in which our country has
been prominent, have invariably had on the Navy by main-
taining the spirit of enterprise.'

To the appeal which followed this report in 1896 the
Government opposed the existing state of public affairs, which
made it inconvenient for the Navy to undertake such a task
as was proposed ; but in a later letter the Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty expressed their sympathy with the objects
desired, and signified their willingness to assist any expedition
that might be despatched.

Failing Government assistance, in May 1897, it was
resolved by the Council of the Geographical Society that
every effort should be made to start an expedition on a proper
scale under its own auspices, but it was soon seen that this
was a task of such magnitude that the assistance of all who
were interested in the scheme would be required.

During the early months of 1898 the Royal Society was

22 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

invited and agreed to co-operate ; henceforth the undertaking
was to be considered as under the auspices of two great
Societies instead of one, and was demonstrably supported by
the whole scientific opinion of the country. An important
report by a sub-committee of the Royal Society clearly
detailed the scientific objects which were to be sought, and
laid particular stress on the extreme value of the magnetic
work. Meanwhile Sir Clements Markham commenced and
continued his indefatigable efforts to raise the necessary funds;
the Geographical Society headed the subscription list with
5,000/., and circulars were issued to the public.

In March 1899 this appeal met with a noble response,
when Mr. Llewellyn Longstaff came forward with a munificent
donation of 25,000/. When the ' Discovery' eventually sailed
it was to act on a concerted plan between expeditions of
various nationalities ; it is quite certain that Britain would
not have been represented in this exploring effort had it not
been for Mr. Longstaff's public-spirited and patriotic gift.
But whilst our countrymen complacently reflect that the
British tradition for exploration has been maintained, they
appear entirely to have forgotten the man who made it
possible.

The position of the promoters of the enterprise was now
greatly strengthened, and was made yet stronger when His
Majesty the King, then Prince of Wales, graciously con-
sented to become its patron, and the Duke of York vice-
patron. Later in the year it was decided to make a further
appeal to the Government ; a deputation consisting of some
of the most eminent men in both Societies waited on Mr.
Balfour and re-stated the objects of the enterprise. Mr.
Balfour expressed strong sympathy with the objects and a
lively interest in the undertaking, and it was entirely owing
to his generous attitude that the Government eventually
yielded and agreed to contribute 45,000/, provided an equal
sum could be raised by private subscriptions.

Again Sir Clements Markham issued appeals for money,
and gradually the private fund crept up. After Mr. Longstaff,

DECISION TO BUILD A NEW VESSEL 23

amongst the largest and most generous contributors were Sir
Alfred Harmsworth with 5,000/., the Misses Dawson Lambton
with 1,500/., the Royal Society with 1,000/., and the Govern-
ment of Queensland, Australia, with 1,000/. ; many others
were equally generous in accordance with their means, and
with a further sum of 3,000/. from the Geographical Society
the private subscriptions were raised to 47,000/, the Govern-
ment grant was secured, and the whole available fund was
carried to the adequate total of 92,000/ Financially all was
now comparatively plain sailing.

As soon as Mr. Longstafif's gift had placed the expedition
within the bounds of practical politics, the question of the
vessel in which its members were to sail came under con-
sideration, and the appointment of a special Ship Committee,
consisting of several distinguished Admirals and Arctic
explorers, was followed by the decision to build a new ship
for the purpose.

Mr. VV. E. Smith, C.B., Chief Naval Constructor, was in-
vited and consented to prepare the plans and supervise the
construction of this new vessel, and the Committee, in consul-
tation with Mr. Smith, accepted the tender of the Dundee
Shipbuilding Company to build her. In March 1900 the keel
was laid in the Company's yard.

In the summer of this year the position of the National
Antarctic Expedition, as it was now called, was briefly as fol-
lows : The money had been subscribed for the venture, the
control of which was vested in the hands of a body named the
Joint Committee, containing sixteen members appointed by
each of the two Societies. The names which figured on the
list of this Committee were those of gentlemen eminent in
many branches of science, and of distinguished Admirals and
explorers— in fact, of all those who were best able to give
advice concerning the multifarious details of a scientific ex-
ploring expedition. As, however, this body, as a whole, was
obviously too large to deal with matters of detail, it had ap-
pointed nine sub-committees ; these were for the purpose of
considering the various branches of science which were to be

24 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

investigated, to supervise the construction of the ship, &c. ;
whilst one, the Executive Committee, was to act for and report
to the larger body.

Such was the position of affairs when I received my
appointment to command the expedition on June lo, 1900,
and therefore, in making my bow to the public, I will digress
slightly to show how this had come about. I may as well
confess at once that I had no predilection for Polar explora-
tion, and that my story is exceedingly tame, but such as it is it
shows how curiously the course of one's life may be turned. I
suppose the tale really starts in 1887, when Sir Clements
Markham, then the guest of his cousin, the Commodore of the
Training Squadron, made himself the personal friend of every
midshipman in the four ships which comprised it, and when I
became one of those midshipmen and first made his acquaint-
ance. But there is a long interregnum — until 1899, in fact;
in that year I was serving as first lieutenant of the ' Majestic,'
then flagship to the Channel Squadron. Early in June I was
spending my short leave in London, and chancing one day to
walk down the Buckingham Palace Road, I espied Sir Clements
on the opposite pavement, and naturally crossed, and as
naturally turned and accompanied him to his house. That
afternoon I learned for the first time that there was such a
thing as a prospective Antarctic expedition ; two days later I
wrote applying to command it, and a year after that I was
officially appointed. On June 30, 1900, 1 was promoted to the
rank of commander, and a month later my duties in the
' Majestic ' lapsed, and I was free to undertake the work of the
expedition. The year which followed was in many respects
the busiest I have ever spent, and in view of the novelty and
importance of the work this cannot be considered surprising ;
but, great as my difficulties were, I have to acknowledge that
they would have been much greater had it not been for the
numerous acts of kindness and the invariable courtesy which I
received from the many persons who were directly or indirectly
connected with the expedition.

The first month after my release from the Navy I spent in

PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS 25

endeavouring to collect the threads of what was going forward,
and in gaining some further instruction in magnetism, which
was to form so important a part of our undertaking ; but early
in October I met Sir Clements Markham in Norway, and
gathered a great many practical suggestions from Dr. Nansen,
to which I shall refer later ; from Norway I went to Berlin to
meet the leader of the German expedition, Professor von
Drygalski, and here, again, I met with the greatest kindness
and consideration. The German expedition was to sail from
Europe at the same time as our own, but its preparations were
far more advanced. In Berhn I found the work of. equipment
in full swing ; provisions and stores had already been ordered,
clothing had been tried, special instruments were being pre-
pared, the staff of the expedition had been appointed and was
already at work, and the ' Gauss ' was well on towards comple-
tion. I was forced to realise that this was all in marked
contrast with the state of things in England, and I hastened
home in considerable alarm.

I found, as I had expected, that all the arrangements which
were being so busily pushed forward in Germany were prac-
tically at a standstill in England ; many of them, in fact, had
not yet been considered. The construction of the ship was the
only task which showed steady progress, and here there were
many interruptions from the want of someone who could
give immediate decisions on points of detail. It was clear
that no time must be wasted if the lost ground was to be
regained.

I have already outlined the machinery by which the expedi-
tion was now being guided. In spite of its individual efficiency
it was necessarily ponderous : the members of the various
committees and sub-committees were busy men ; each was
deeply engaged in his own work ; many lived out of London,
and all found it impossible to meet frequently and consistently.
It was evident that the prompt and vigorous action which was
necessary could not be expected from such bodies, and that in
some manner I must obtain the power to act on their behalf.
But here arose a considerable difficulty : out of the thirty-two

26 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

members who constituted the Joint Committee I was person-
ally known to only four or five ; the responsibility vested in
them was a large one, and it was not to be supposed that they
would immediately place it in my hands without the showing
of a strong case and reasonable guarantees. In this dilemma
I have to acknowledge most gratefully the advice and assist-
ance of Sir Arthur Riicker, then Secretary of the Royal Society,
who, seeing my case, clearly pointed out the difficulties and
offered to support me, provided I could produce a reasonable
scheme by which they could be overcome.

On November 4 the Joint Committee met to consider such
a scheme, and after some discussion passed it.

This resolution was of great importance ; it left me practi-
cally with a free hand to push on the work in every department
under a given estimate of expenditure in each, whilst to safe-
guard the interests of the Societies it provided that this
expenditure should be supervised by a Finance Committee,
which should control the business arrangements and sign the
necessary cheques.

This plan has worked successfully down to the present
time ; that it has done so is mainly due to the generous
manner in which the members of the Finance Committee have
given their services to the business of the expedition, and to
the complete accord with which they have worked together.
It would be impossible to exaggerate the importance of the
vast amount of business transacted by this Committee, and
certainly no history of our expedition would be complete
without a due acknowledgment of the individual and collective
services of its members.

It was originally arranged that it should consist of the
Presidents and Treasurers of the two Societies, but the
President of the Royal Society desired that his place should
be taken by an official from the Treasury, and the constitution
eventually became : Sir Clements Markham (Chairman) ; Mr.
A. B. Kempe, K.C., Treasurer of the Royal Society; Mr.
Chalmers, C.B., of the Treasury; and Mr. E. L. Somers Cocks,
Treasurer of the Geographical Society ; whilst Mr. Cyril Long-

ADMIRALTY ASSISTANCE 27

hurst, the indefatigable Secretary of the Expedition, became
also the Secretary of this Committee.

The Joint Committee, after arranging for this new order of
things, proceeded to consider the instructions which were to
guide the movements of the expedition, and as there were
many scientific interests to be served there was naturally
considerable divergence of opinion on points of detail, and it
was many months before these were finally decided.

In the meantime my first task was to collect, as far as
possible, the various members of the expedition. It was
evident that there was far more work than I could hope to do
single-handed, and the best assistance I could have would be
from those who were to take part in the voyage. I shall give
some account of the individual officers and men in a future
chapter, confining myself here to the part they played in the
work of preparation.

From a very early date I had set my mind on obtaining a
naval crew. I felt sure that their sense of discipline would be
an immense acquisition, and I had grave doubts as to my own
ability to deal with any other class of men. Mr. Goschen had
originally limited the Admiralty assistance in this respect to
two officers, myself and Mr. Royds, who was already at work
in our service. At a later date, however, the Admiralty
extended this limit to include Mr. Skelton, our engineer, a
carpenter, and a boatswain, and this gave us at any rate a
small naval nucleus. But beyond this for a long time the
Admiralty hesitated to assist us, and before the tide turned I
was almost reduced to despair of a concession which I thought
so necessary.

In this matter and in many others I can never forget the
assistance which was given me by the late Sir Anthony
Hoskins. Sir Anthony loved to do his good deeds silently,
and it was not until long after that I learnt how frequently he
had lent a helping hand to the expedition. But any hesitation
the Admiralty may have had in granting naval seamen did not
spring from coldness towards the enterprise. The Sea Lords
were at this time Lord Walter Kerr, Sir Archibald Douglas,

28 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

and Admiral Durnford, and both individually and collectively
they never failed to evince an interest in it, so that at length
the active assistance of Sir Archibald Douglas overcame
objections of principle, and the men were granted.

But this concession, perhaps the most important which the
expedition received, did not come until the spring of igor ;
and as, after this, steps had to be taken to select the most
fitting volunteers, the chosen men did not join until very
shortly before the sailing of the expedition.

Many of the officers, however, came on the scene much
earlier, and whilst our new vessel was yet a skeleton the first
lieutenant, the chief engineer, and the carpenter were standing
by her, and were able to look into the numerous small
difficulties that arose, and to inform me of them during my
flying visits to Dundee. My own headquarters I was obliged
to make in London, and I fixed them in the University build-
ings of Burlington House, where rooms were kindly placed at
my disposal by Lord Esher, then Secretary to His Majesty's
Office of Works.

It would not be possible for me to describe half the work
that went on in this office ; suffice it to say that it kept me
extremely busy for six days in the week. My room soon
became a veritable museum of curiosities : sledges, ski, fur
clothing and boots were crowded into the corners, whilst tables
and shelves were littered with correspondence and innumerable
samples of tinned foods. In the midst of this confusion I
worked steadily on with all the ups and downs that such
occasions will bring, sometimes in high hope that all was
going well, and sometimes with the dreary feeling that by no
possibility could we be ready to start at the required date.

Luckily, throughout this busy, trying time I had much
assistance. Our indefatigable Secretary, Mr. Longhurst, was
always willing to take fresh troubles on his already over-
burdened shoulders, and devoted his whole energies to the
work. Of Mr. Armitage's help in matters of equipment I shall
speak later on. At about this time also Mr. George Murray,
F.R.S., received his appointment as temporary director of the

WORK OF EQUIPMENT 29

scientific staff, and many of the details of the scientific equip-
ment passed into his hands, where I soon became conscious
they rested with safety. Mr. Murray also undertook to edit
that very important publication the * Antarctic Manual,' which
provided us with a great deal of scientific and historical
instruction concerning the regions we were about to visit.

But it was not all plain sailing with those who were
gathered around me at this important time ; not all were such
staunch supporters as those I have mentioned. Amongst my
most careful selections had been the person who was to hold
the responsible position of ship's steward. At this time a good
ship's steward would have been invaluable, but my choice
proved unfortunate, and first and last caused us a great deal
of trouble, although I am glad to say we were rid of him
before the expedition sailed.

In this manner and with varying fortune the work of equip-
ment proceeded. First a lengthy provision list was drawn up,
the amounts being calculated for a three-years' absence ;
tinned meats, vegetables, flour, biscuit, butter, sugar, and every
other necessary article were ordered in due proportion, and
even such minor requirements as dubbin and plate-powder
were not forgotten. After this came a consideration of the
clothing, and with what an assortment of this we were provided
will be gathered from the pages of this narrative ; for it will be
seen that we had need to be prepared for every variety of
climate, from the sultry heat of the tropics, through the storms
of the Southern Seas, to the intense cold of the Far South.
Next came the provision of the travelling equipment — sledges,
tents, furs, &c., had to be thought of and selected with a care
which I shall explain in a future chapter.

But the above by no means exhausts the list of subjects
for which arrangements had to be made in that small ofifice in
Burlington House. Few people can realise what an extra-
ordinary variety of articles is required on such an expedition
as ours, where a ship and its crew are to be banished from all
sources of supply for a lengthened period. For, besides the
provision of food and clothing and such things as were

30 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

obviously necessary, it is possible to enumerate a host of
articles which, whilst we were equally forced to procure them,
will probably not have occurred to the ordinary reader.

For instance, there were boatswain's stores, with rope,
canvas, and everything necessary for the refitting of the top-
hamper of the ship ; carpenter's stores, with all requisites for
work in that department ; engineer's stores, including a vast
variety of articles ; ice implements of various kinds, explosives
for destroying the ice, guns and ammunition, and fireworks
for signalling. There were tobacco, soap, glass, crockery,
furniture, mattresses, and all such requisites for personal
comfort ; oil-lamps and candles for lighting, and stoves for
heating ; medicines and medical comforts ; a photographic
outfit; a library of many hundreds of volumes ; also a balloon
equipment ; canvas boats of various kinds, huts for our shore
station, instruments of many descriptions ; and so on almost
ad infi7iitii7n.

It may be imagined that, large as this list of requirements
was, with the sum of 92,000/. there should have been no
financial difficulty, nor, indeed, was there; but it has to be
remembered that of this large sum 51,000/. went to the
complete cost of building the new vessel, and it was necessary
to reserve more than 25,000/ for the wages and the contingent
expenses of the voyage.

The sum which remained was sufficient to equip the
expedition in the most thorough manner, but it had to be
administered with economy ; and though I am now conscious
of many mistakes which were made from lack of experience, I
think little money was wasted.

On the whole the firms with which we dealt treated us with
great liberality, and suppHed us with excellent goods. Many
took an especial interest in the expedition, and made a very
considerable reduction in the prices of the articles they
supplied. Whilst it is impossible to quote all the instances
of this nature, I take the opportunity of most gratefully
acknowledging three cases in which goods were supplied as an
absolutely free gift, and in which the donors took exceptional

LIBERALITY OF BUSINESS FIRMS 31

care that the packing should be in exact accordance with our
requirements. These firms were Messrs. Colman, Limited,
who supplied us with nine tons of flour and a quantity of
mustard; Messrs. Cadbury, who gave 3,500 lbs. of excellent
cocoa and chocolate— all that we required of these articles, in
fact; Messrs. Bird & Sons, who presented us with eight
hundredweight of baking and custard powders ; and Messrs.
Evans, Lescher & Webb, to whom we were indebted for all
our lime-juice.

During these busy months of preparation which I have
briefly described, the various important posts in the expedition
had been gradually filled up, and now expeditionary work was
being carried on in many places. Some officers were in
Dundee, superintending the building of our good ship ; others
were working on their especial subjects at the British Museum;
others were preparing themselves at the Physical Laboratory
at Kew ; and others, again, were travelling in various directions,
both at home and abroad. Of all these movements and doings
the central office was obliged to have cognisance, and there-
fore, as can be imagined, there were not many idle moments
for its occupants.

Long ago it had been decided that the ' Discovery ' should
be loaded with her valuable freight in London, and on June 3
she was brought round from Dundee and berthed in the East
India Docks. The courtesy of the London Docks Company
had placed at our disposal a large shed near this berth, and
soon after the centre of interest was transferred to this spot.

Here, therefore; during the two following months, busiest
of all, were gathered all those stores which were to minister to
our comfort and aid our work throughout our long voyage ;
and here also we loaded the staunch vessel which, with her
solid wooden walls, was to form our home for more than three
years.

32 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

CHAPTER II

PREPARATION

Ships of former Polar Voyages — Ship Committee— Design of the
' Discovery' — Choice of a Name — Description of the Ship — Magnetic
Observatory — Living Spaces — Holds, &c. — Sails — Launch of the Ship
— The Officers appointed— The Warrant Officers — The Men — Division
of the Antarctic Regions— Prospect of Victoria Quadrant — The Instruc-
tions—Acknowledgment of Assistance.

Ere long we will launch
A vessel as goodly, strong, and staunch

As ever weathered a wintry sea. — Longfellow.

In deciding to build a vessel for the purposes of the expedi-
tion the Ship Committee made a new departure, for the
' Discovery ' was the first vessel ever built in England for
scientific exploration.

Few details in the great voyages of the early adventurers
are more interesting to a sailor than those concerning the ships
in which such voyages were accomplished. If one is inclined
to wonder at the deeds of those mariners, wonderment must
be greatly increased on realising the extraordinary vessels in
which they were performed. Space does not permit me to
touch on such a subject, but it may be interesting to note
some of the vessels which have been used since the com-
mencement of the era of scientific exploration to which I
referred in the last chapter.

All four ships, the ' Endeavour,' ' Resolution,' ' Adventure,'
and ' Discovery,' which took part in Cook's famous voyages,
had been built and used for the coal trade ; they ranged from

FAMOUS POLAR SHIPS ^^

300 to 462 tons, and Cook expressed himself very well satisfied
with them, deeming them well suited for his purpose.

The ' Erebus ' and ' Terror,' as I have noted before, had
been bomb vessels. They had been built in the old French
war, and were designed to carry mortars which discharged
shells at an angle of 45°. It was these same vessels which,
after they had returned from their famous Southern voyage,
were lost with the ill-fated Franklin Expedition in 1845. The
' Hecla' and ' Fury,' which took part in Parry's famous voyages
to the Arctic Regions, were also bomb vessels of the same
class, but many of the early Arctic ventures were provided
with old whalers : it soon came to be recognised what a useful
type of vessel this was for ice-work.

The majority of ships employed in the Franklin Search
Expedition were ordinary merchant vessels purchased into the
navy and strengthened at considerable expense. Some of
these which did good service, such as the ' Enterprise ' and
' Investigator,' were over 530 tons. Most of these early vessels
were sailing ships; the first steamers used were the ' Pioneer '
and ' Intrepid ' ; they were about 430 tons burden, and both
had been traders under different names.

In the latest Government Arctic Expedition of 1875 the
two vessels employed were, as is well known, the ' Alert ' and
the ' Discovery.' The ' Alert ' was an old 1 7-gun sloop espe-
cially strengthened for the service, but the 'Discovery,' though
also strengthened at Portsmouth, had been the whaler 'Blood-
hound,' built at Dundee for the Greenland whale trade. The
contrast between these two ships for ice-work was remarkable.
The 'Alert' had a bluff straight bow, whilst the 'Discovery'
had the more recently designed overhanging stem, and as a
result the 'Discovery' had often to be sent ahead to force a
passage in order that the ' Alert ' might follow.

The lines of the ' Discovery ' represented the experience
gained in the whaUng trade; this industry, which had flourished
for so many years, and which at one time had employed more
than a hundred vessels sailing out of Hull, Peterhead, and
Dundee, was slowly dwindling, but then, and even much later,

VOL. I. D

34 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

fresh ships were launched from time to time to compete in it.
The whale, however, was growing timid, and had to be sought
in new waters; the difficulties with the pack-ice were ever in-
creasing, and success lay more and more with those ships
which were capable of forcing their way through it.

As a natural result of these conditions, a class of vessels
was evolved which, whilst capable of taking the same hard
knocks as the older ships, had a greatly increased power for
making progress through the pack-ice, and to this class be-
longed the old 'Discovery.' As regards lines, she probably
reached the best form for such a vessel ; for although others
have been launched since, they have achieved greater efficiency
mainly by increased engine-power. It was generally admitted
by those who witnessed her performances in 1875 that the old
' Discovery' was the best ship that had ever been employed on
Arctic service.

The Ship Committee which was appointed to consider the
design of the new vessel for the Antarctic Expedition had all
these facts vividly before it, since some of its members had
occupied the most important positions in the expedition of
1875. Without giving the names of all the members, as the
Committee was a large one, I may mention that amongst the
most active were Sir Leopold McClintock, Sir George Nares,
Sir Vesey Hamilton, Sir Albert Markham, Sir Anthony Hoskins,
and Captain E. W. Creak.

This Committee, therefore, after due deliberation, decided
that the new vessel should be built more or less on the lines of
the old 'Discovery'; and here it is necessary to explain more
exactly why this decision was made, as it wholly rejected an-
other and newer type of Arctic vessel suggested by the 'Fram.'

I have so often been asked whether the 'Discovery' was
like the ' Fram,' and if not, why not, that I wish to make this
point clear. The ' Fram ' was built for a specific object, which
was to remain in safety in the North Polar pack in spite of the
terrible pressures which were to be expected in such a great
extent of ice.

This object was achieved in the simplest manner by in-

TYPE OF VESSEL SELECTED 35

dining the sides of the vessel until her shape was something
like that of a saucer, and lateral pressure merely tended to raise
her above the surface. Simple as this design was, it fulfilled so
well the requirements of the situation that its conception was
certainly a stroke of genius. But what is generally overlooked
is that this quality was only got by the sacrifice of others,
which, though they might not be needed on that expedition,
might be very much required on future ones. In short, the
safety of the ' Fram ' was achieved at the expense of her sea-
worthiness and powers of ice-penetration.

Hence it will be seen that since the advent of the ' Fram '
there are two distinct types of Polar vessels, the one founded
essentially on the idea of passive security in the ice, the other
the old English whaler type, designed to sail the high seas and
push forcefully through the looser ice-packs.

A very brief consideration of Southern conditions will
show which of these two types is better suited for Antarctic
exploration, for it is obvious that the exploring ship must be
prepared to navigate the most tempestuous seas in the world,
and then to force her way through the ice-floes to the mysteries
beyond. As yet the Southern Regions have shown no uses
for the type which achieves safety at the expense of progress.
It will be seen, therefore, that the Committee had a clear issue
in deciding to adopt good and well-tried English lines for
its vessel, and certainly in the excellent qualities which the
' Discovery ' showed, the decision was justified.

It is fair to add, however, that whilst this view commended
itself so clearly to the English Committee, it was not adopted
in Germany. Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin
in 1899, Nansen strongly recommended for South Polar work
a vessel of the ' Fram ' type with fuller lines ; this was, in fact,
an attempt to produce all qualities by a compromise, and those
responsible for the construction of the ' Gauss ' adopted the
idea. I am not in possession of any detailed information con-
cerning the performance of the ' Gauss ' as a sea-boat or in
pushing through the ice ; but with a knowledge of her lines
and her small engine-power, and my experience in the Southern

D2

36 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

Regions, I cannot believe she was so efficient an exploring
vessel as the ' Discovery.'

The art of building wooden ships is now almost lost to the
United Kingdom ; probably in twenty or thirty years' time a
new ' Discovery ' will give more trouble and cost more money
than a moderate-sized war-ship. This is natural enough : it is
the day of steel, of the puncher and the riveter; the adze and
the wood-plane are passing away. It must become increasingly
difficult to find the contractors who will undertake to build a
wooden ship, or the seasoned wood and the skilled workmen
necessary for its construction.

The technicalities of the business may still remain in the
memories of the older constructors, but have grown vague
from disuse, and very few persons have cause to refresh their
memories. And so it is all passing away ; even the quaint old
Scotch foreman, John Smith, who played so important a part
in the building of the ' Discovery,' has finished his work and
vanished from the scene. It is a strange ending to an industry
which a century ago produced those stout wooden walls that
were the main defence of the kingdom.

In October 1899, when tenders for the new ship were
invited, there were few replies, and only one from a firm which
had recent experience of such a task. This was the Dundee
Shipbuilding Company, the owners of a small yard on the Tay,
which had been better known in the flourishing days of the
whale trade as Stevens's Yard. Stevens had been a very well-
known character in Dundee, the builder and owner of many a
fine whaling ship.

Arrangements were therefore entered into with this Com-
pany to build the new vessel, and in the meanwhile the Com-
mittee's architect, Mr. W. E. Smith, had thoroughly overhauled
the plans of the old ' Discovery ' and drawn up a masterly
specification for the new one. In March 1900 the keel of the
new vessel was laid, and in a few months the massive oak
frames had been raised and the busy scene of construction
was in full swing.

I have spoken of this new ship as the ' Discovery,' but it

NAMING THE SHIP 73

was not until June that her name was selected. Many names
came up for discussion, and not a few of these had already
done service in the older English expeditions. It was gene-
rally considered that the most appropriate plan was to revive
some old time-honoured title, and as it was seen that few
names carried a greater record than 'Discovery,' that name
was chosen. It is perhaps interesting, therefore, to give some
idea of its history. There have now been six ' Discoveries.'
The first made no fewer than six Arctic voyages from 1602 to
16 1 6 to the regions of Hudson Bay and Baffin Bay, on one of
which she was commanded by the famous navigator William
Baffin. The second also voyaged to Hudson Bay in 17 19.
' Discovery' No. 3 took part in Cook's third voyage in 1776.
' Discovery ' No. 4 was Vancouver's ship when he discovered
the insularity of the land which is named after him. ' Dis-
covery ' No. 5 took part in the 1875 expedition to the Arctic;
she was commanded by the present Sir Henry F. Stevenson,
and I have already shown her fitness for the work. Our own
' Discovery ' was therefore the sixth of that name and the heir
to a long record of honourable service, and, what was equally
important, of fortunate service, as the name ' Discovery ' seems
never to have been associated with shipwreck or disaster.

And here I should like to introduce the reader to this
good ship which was to carry us and our fortunes through
many adventures. I can do so without going into technical
details, as, thanks to the interest which Mr. W. E. Smith took
in his handiwork and the enterprise of the Institution of Naval
Architects, a permanent record of the vessel has been esta-
blished. The ' Discovery,' alas ! has passed away from the
paths of exploration, but the future architect of such a ship
will find all the information he needs concerning her in the
'Proceedings' of the Institution I have named (April 1905).

The displacement of the ' Discovery ' was 1,620 tons, but
her registered tonnage, by which her size can be compared
with other ships I have mentioned, was 485. Her length
between perpendiculars was 172 feet, and her breadth 34 feet.

By consulting the profile drawing of the ship, the reader

38 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY

will get some idea of the internal arrangements, but he will
scarcely realise the extraordinary solidity of the structure.
Most people who have voyaged in modern ships know that
between them and the sea there has only interposed a steel
plate the fraction of an inch in thickness ; they may, therefore,
be interested to know what the side of the ' Discovery ' was
like. The frames, which were placed very close together, were
eleven inches thick and of solid English oak ; inside the frames
came the inner lining, a solid planking four inches thick ; whilst
the outside was covered with two layers of planking, respectively
six and five inches thick, so that, in most places, to bore a hole
in the side one would have had to get through twenty-six
inches of solid wood.

It will give some idea of the complexity of the construction
of such a ship to name the various woods that were employed
in the side, for in each place the most suitable was chosen.
The inner lining was of Riga fir, the frames of English oak, the
inner skin, according to its position, of pitch pine, Honduras
mahogany, or oak, whilst the outer skin in the same way was of
English elm or greenheart. The massive side structure was
stiffened and strengthened by three tiers of beams running
from side to side, and at intervals with stout transverse wooden
bulkheads ; the beams in the lower tiers were especially solid,
being eleven inches by eleven inches in section, and they were
placed at intervals of something less than three feet.

All this went to give the ship a frame capable of resisting
immense side strains, but, strong as she was in this respect,
the rigid stiffness of the sides was as nothing to that of the
bows. Some idea of the fortification of this part can be
gathered from the drawing, which shows the numerous and
closely placed girders and struts that went to support the
forefoot. Such a network of solid oak stiffeners gave to this
portion of the vessel a strength which almost amounted to
solidity. It will be seen, too, how the keel at the fore-end of
the ship gradually grew thicker till it rose in the enormous
mass of solid wood which constituted the stem. No single
tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the several

^-

IK

40 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

that were employed were cunningly scarfed to provide the
equivalent of a solid block ; and, in addition to the strong
fastenings which held piece to piece, long strengthening bolts
were used which ran fore and aft and securely held all to-
gether. Some of these bolts, running entirely through wood,
were as much as 8^ feet in length.

The bow of the * Discovery ' was, therefore, a part which
ran little risk of damage, and a knowledge of its strength was
a pleasing possession when we came to ramming the ice-floes.
In further preparation for such service the stem itself and the
bow for three or four feet on either side were protected with
numerous steel plates, so that when we got back to civilisation
not a scratch remained to show the many hard knocks which
the bow had received.

The shape of the stem was a very important consideration.
It will be seen how largely it overhangs, and this was carried
to a greater extent than in any former Polar ship. The object
with which this was fitted was often very prettily fulfilled
during our voyage. Many a time on charging a large ice-floe
the stem of the ship glided upwards until the bows were
raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship acting
downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would drop,
and the ship would gradually forge ahead to meet the next
obstruction. This is the principle on which the ice is broken
by all modern ice-breakers ; and here, perhaps, I may be
allowed to interpolate a remark. I have often been asked
why the now well-known ice-breakers are not employed for
such expeditions as ours. It is because the ice-breaker is
built of steel, and, except when breaking very thin ice, is in
constant need of repair ; nothing but a wooden structure has
the elasticity and strength to grapple with thick Polar ice
without injury.

The ' Discovery's ' greatest strength lay in her bows, as I
have just shown ; next to this, and as far aft as the mainmast,
the structure, supported by numerous beams and bulkheads,
still remained very strong ; but further aft there was a distinct
weakening, for although the sides remained equally thick, the

NEW FEATURES IN THE 'DISCOVERY' 41

position of the engines and boilers necessitated the omission
of many of the crossbeams.

Next to this came the stern, which, with the rudder and
screw, must always form the weakest and most vulnerable part
of a Polar ship. Nansen aptly defines it as the Achilles' heel.
Our screw was capable of being detached and lifted up
through the deck ; this is a common enough device, though,
as I shall remark later, the manner in which it was done in
the ' Discovery ' was new.

But Mr. Smith made an entirely new departure in providing
us with a rudder which likewise lifted up through the deck.
This plan had the single disadvantage that the rudder possessed
only one pintle and brace instead of the several that are cus-
tomary ; on the other hand, its advantages in the facilities it
offered for shifting a damaged rudder were great and easily
seen. As I shall tell, we had occasion to be exceedingly
grateful for these advantages.

Protection for our keel was afforded, firstly, by making
every part as strong as possible ; the rudder-post was an
enormous piece of timber, and was secured to the keel with
extra strengthening-pieces placed beneath the propeller ; it
would have taken tremendous forces to have strained or
distorted these fixtures. But protection to this part was given
yet more by the overhanging stern, an entirely new feature in
this class of vessel. As can be imagined, the building of the
' Discovery ' excited the keenest interest in the whaling com-
munity of Dundee. Few novelties passed unnoticed, and the
peculiar shape of our stern gave rise to the strongest criticism ;
all sorts of evils were predicted, the commonest being that we
should one day come down so heavily that it would be broken
off ! As events showed, this stern was a distinctly good
feature : in a heavy seaway, as long as we were travelling
through the water, it tended to keep the ship drier by causing
her to lift more readily to the waves ; to a certain extent it was
a disadvantage if we happened to be becalmed and stationary,
as then the rounded under-surface would come down with
terrific violence, shaking the ship throughout; but these

42 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

occasions were rare, and when we got amongst the ice we
reaped great benefit from it, for then, as will be seen, it formed
a buffer which prevented the heavier pieces of ice from coming
into contact with the rudder.

On the whole, therefore, the hull of the ' Discovery ' was a
splendidly strong and well-fortified structure, and the machinery
was in all respects equal to the hull. The ship had two
cylindrical boilers arranged to work at a pressure of 150 lbs.
per square inch, and a set of triple expansion engines. The
latter were designed to give 450 indicated horse power, but
actually on trial gave over 500. Whilst there was nothing
particularly novel in these engines and boilers, many details in
connection with them had to be considered with especial care
in view of the service for which they were required ; more
particularly was this the case with regard to the leads of steam
pipes and the position of sea inlets.

In the shape of auxiliary machinery, besides that in con-
nection with the main engines, the ' Discovery ' possessed a
small condenser for making fresh water, a small dynamo for
supplying electric light, a strong deck winch amidships, and a
very powerful capstan engine under the forecastle. In connec-
tion with the last-named, and placed close to it, there was also
a small auxiliary boiler which on one occasion at least did
yeoman service. All these various machines were supplied by
different firms, but our excellent set of main engines and
boilers were built and placed by Messrs. Gourlay Brothers, of
Dundee, and to the energetic manager of this firm, Mr. Lyon,
we owe the really novel feature which was embodied in our
arrangement for lifting the screw.

For the benefit of those who are interested in engineering
details I may briefly explain this device, as it is certainly
worthy of record. As I have said, a lifting screw is a common
fitting, but it has always had one disadvantage in the fact that
the joint between the shaft and the screw has tended to get
loose, and this has caused a very uncomfortable jarring when
the engines have been revolving. The fittings in the ' Dis-
covery ' entirely avoided this in the following manner : The

I'll, 'I., 1,-1 N'ALENTINE

DISCOVERY ' ON STOCKS— EXTERIOR VIEW.

riiolu by Wilkntinj:

' DiSl'OX EKV ' UN STOCKS-— INTERIOR ME\\',

MAGNETIC PRECAUTIONS 43

tail end of the shaft was made hollow, and inside it was placed
an inner shaft ; the outer shaft fitted into the boss of the
screw on a taper ; inside the boss beyond this taper was a
large nut in which the inner shaft could engage ; the outer
shaft and the screw were kept in close connection by the inner
shaft and nut, and therefore there was no loose connection to
jar. To disconnect the screw, a small section of the main
shaft, in front of the tail shaft, could be lifted bodily, the
inner tail shaft could then be turned and freed from the nut,
when both inner and outer shafts could be withdrawn together,
and the screw was free for lifting. This fitting was naturally
expensive, but it is certainly the most efficient that has been
devised for a lifting propeller.

In the profile drawing which is reproduced, on the middle
of the upper deck will be seen a deck-house marked ' Magnetic
Observatory ' ; this was an important place, both in the
building and in the subsequent work of the * Discovery.' I
have already given reason to show why the greatest stress was
laid on the accuracy of our magnetic observations, and it will
be clear that accurate magnetic observations cannot be taken
in a place closely surrounded with iron. The enthusiasm of the
magnetic experts on the Ship Committee had at first led them
to request that there should be no iron or steel at all in the
' Discovery,' and when it was pointed out that this could
scarcely be, they demanded the exclusion of the metals from
the vicinity of the magnetic observatory. At last a compromise
was arrived at, which stipulated that no magnetic materials
should be employed within thirty feet of the observatory. It
is difficult to realise what immense trouble and expense this
decision involved. This thirty-foot circle swept round, down
by the foremast, under the bottom of the ship, and up in
front of the mainmast ; everything within this radius had to
be made of brass or some other non-magnetic material, and
when all the fastenings of the hull and all the fittings and
furniture of the ship are considered, some idea may be gathered
of the difficulty ; even much of the rigging, which would
ordinarily have been of wire, had to be made of hemp, of a

44 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

size which is rarely, if ever, used in these days. And yet
when all these elaborate precautions had been taken we could
not banish magnetic objects from the sacred ring, for as a
critic might well have pointed out in the first place, the pro-
vision-rooms within it could not possibly have their contents
preserved in brass.

Nevertheless, this care in building was by no means lost.
The magnetic observations taken on board throughout the
voyage required astonishingly little correction, and though the
condition of perfection looked for was not achieved, it was
certainly more nearly approached than it would have been in
an ordinary wooden steamship.

There were several curious results of this magnetic ordi-
nance. I might mention, for instance, that the officers outside
the circle slept on modern spring mattresses, whilst those
within had to content themselves with wooden battens. There
was quite a small stir, too, when the buttons of some cushions
were found to be made of iron, and these were immediately
ripped off and replaced by leaden ones. Of course, also, the
magnetic regulations caused some amusement : at one time
those who lived within the circle were threatened with the
necessity of shaving with brass razors. The careful rounds
made by the navigator before he commenced his observations
were another subject of jest : knives and all sorts of instru-
ments had to be summarily confiscated and placed beyond the
pale, much to the annoyance of their owners ; and on our way
home from New Zealand I remember one awful case where it
was discovered that throughout a whole set of observations a
parrot had been hanging on the mess-deck. It was not the
inoffensive bird that was objected to, but the iron wires of its
cage.

The general distribution of ourselves and our stores inside
the ' Discovery ' can be seen in the plan. The wardroom was
a good-sized apartment, about thirty feet long and nearly
twenty feet across ; on each side were comparatively roomy
cabins for the officers, whilst at the after-end, between it and
the engine-room, lay my own cabin and that of the navigating

THE INTERIOR 45

officer. This position was by no means a catch, for in the
tropics when steam was up it had the doubtful benefit of the
heat given off by the boilers, whereas in the Polar winter, when
we had no steam, the engine-room naturally became the coldest
place in the ship, and the after-cabin suffered accordingly.
The crew-space was a little shorter than the wardroom, but as
it extended the full breadth of the ship it was larger ; compared
with other vessels it gave ample room for its occupants. The
galley-space was narrowed by having compartments cut off on
each side ; however, it was quite big enough for our require-
ments. Between the fore-end of the galley-space and the after-
end of my cabin were comprised the living-spaces, and the ship
was designed so that this part might be kept especially warm
in a Polar cHmate. Concerning our advantages and difficulties
in this respect I shall speak more fully in the course of my
story, but whilst the plan of the ship is under discussion, it
may be as well to point out how we were situated. Naturally,
if one wants to keep warm one must exclude the cold on every
side. During our Polar winters, owing to the insulation of the
upper deck, and to the fact that we piled snow on top of it, we
had nothing to fear from that direction. As regards the sides,
we had small difficulties which I shall mention, but the fact
that cold might creep up from beneath was overlooked in
providing for the comfort of our living-spaces.

It will be seen that beneath the men's quarters were the
provision-rooms and holds ; these, owing to the temperature of
the sea outside and the space above, never fell much below
freezing point, and so the men suffered little discomfort from
below, but the coal-space or bunker under the wardroom was
a different matter. This was only shut off from the engine-
room by a steel bulkhead, and consequently it became
extremely cold and communicated its temperature to the
wardroom. This difficulty would not have arisen had the
decks of the living-spaces been thoroughly well insulated.

Daylight was admitted to the living-spaces through central
skylights and small round decklights. There were no portholes
or sidelights in the ' Discovery.'

46 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

Reference to the drawing will show the reader that the
space devoted to our provisions and stores was divided into
many compartments. It was very much smaller than the
drawing might lead one to suppose, as a great deal of the room
was taken up by the beams and girders provided for the
strengthening of the ship. I do not know the exact weight of
provisions and stores we carried when fully loaded, but I
believe it to have been about 150 tons. And here I may add
that the manner in which provisions and other stores are
packed is of great importance in such an expedition as ours.
The tinning of foods has advanced greatly of late years, but it
is still necessary to exercise great care in selecting tins ; the
shape, the thickness, the care of manufacture, and the paint or
lacquer employed, are all points to be observed, and as a
general rule they give a good indication of the quality of the
food within. Damp and rust are enemies which can be
resisted successfully only by a well-made tin. The same care
is necessary in selecting the cases in which these tins are
stowed. For the ' Discovery,' we had them made to reduce
bulk as much as possible, while for convenience of handling
we limited the weight of each case to 50 or 60 lbs.

The position of our fresh-water tanks will be seen on the
drawing ; the full stowage of these tanks was 25 tons. As they
lay within the magic circle they also had to be subservient to
the magnetic rule, and were made of zinc. The zinc was too
thin, and the arrangement was not satisfactory ; however, as
the tanks were not used during the winter we did not suffer
much inconvenience.

Our coal supply was amongst our most precious possessions,
and I shall show how things went for us in this respect. The
outline of the problem can be gathered from the following
figures. The main bunker held 240 tons ; to this two small
pocket bunkers added 53 tons, and the deck cargo we took
south was 42 tons. For our Southern campaign we had there-
fore 335 tons in all. At sea, steaming economically, we used
between 5 and 6 tons a day, or with one boiler only, about
4 tons ; on the occasions when we had to lie with banked fires

MASTS AND SAILS 47

the consumption was about i^ ton. It will be seen, there-
fore, that each day made a marked difference in our stock of
coal when fires were alight in the main boilers. But of course
throughout our long imprisonment in the ice these fires were
not lighted, and then our consumption was only such as was
necessary for cooking and for warming the ship, and during
our second winter we reduced this to the very moderate figure
of 15 cwt. per week.

A description of the ' Discovery ' would scarcely be com-
plete without a word or two about the spread of canvas which
assisted our voyage so greatly. The ship was under-masted :
the mainmast from truck to keelson was only 112 feet, and
this is extremely short for such a vessel, while comparatively
speaking for this height of mast the yards were square {i.e.
long), the mainyard being 60 feet in length.

The ' Discovery ' was extraordinarily stiff, and could have
carried a much larger sail area with advantage. As it was, the
mainsail and jib were the only sails we took off for a gale, and
I think rarely, if ever, have top-gallant sails been carried
through such weather as ours. For the non-nautical reader I
may explain that in a gale there comes a time when certain
sails cannot be furled : to relieve the ship they must be either
cut or blown away. That we allowed our top-gallant sails to
remain spread in such weather shows our confidence in the
' Discovery's ' stability as well as in our canvas and our
boatswain.

But the comparatively small spread of sail was a great
drawback in light winds, and the ship was an extremely
sluggish sailer. Matters were rendered much worse also by the
masts being placed in the wrong position. They should have
been put much nearer the bows. When sailing ' on a
wind' in the 'Discovery' we had to trim our sails so that
everything forward was clean full while the sails on the main-
mast were almost shivering. These details are somewhat
technical, I fear, but it is very necessary that they should be
noted for the guidance of future explorers. Masts, yards, and
sails are rapidly passing away from the seas, but where the

48 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

saving of coal is of such prime importance, as in the case of
the Polar exploring ship, they must long remain a useful
auxiliary. Although the ' Discovery ' was very slow under
sail alone, unless running before a strong breeze, there were
many occasions when the sails proved an immense assistance
to the engines.

In the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to give some
description of the ship which was built at Dundee, 1 900-1,
and which on March 21 of the latter year was launched and
named the ' Discovery ' by Lady Markham. When, after
gliding smoothly into the waters of the Tay, she was brought
back to the dock side, it was to be invaded by a small army of
workmen, to receive her engines and boilers, to undergo her
successful trials, and generally to be prepared for that voyage
to the Thames in June which I have already mentioned.

From the brief manner in which I have dealt with the
' Discovery ' it will be seen that the initial labours of the Ship
Committee and the high intelligence of Mr. W. E. Smith had
provided us with the finest vessel which was ever built for ex-
ploring purposes. If I had little cause to complain concerning
the instrument thus put into my hands, I had equally little con-
cerning the officers and men who were to assist me in using
it. The manner in which they did their work and the loyalty
with which they supported me will appear in these pages ; but
here I would wish to introduce the reader individually to that
roll whose members faced hardships and difficulties with in-
variable cheerfulness and elected to remain at their posts
whatever might betide.

Ten officers besides myself messed together in the small
wardroom of the ' Discovery.' The senior of these was
Lieutenant Albert B. Armitage, R.N.R. Armitage had spent
a great number of years at sea, joining the training ship
' Worcester ' in 1878. He had passed through that ship with
credit, and after an excellent practical seamanship training in
sailing ships, had been appointed to a position in the P. and O.
Company's service. In this service he had remained nominally
ever since, but in 1894 he had been granted leave of absence

OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION 49

to join the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition to Franz-Josef
Land. The expedition was absent for four years, and on its
return Armitage's services were not only gratefully recognised
by his employer, but were acknowledged by the Royal Geo-
graphical Society, which presented him with its Murchison
Award. After this he had returned to his ordinary duties as
first mate on one of the P. and O. Company's ships until
January 1901, when his services were again lent for Polar work,
and he joined our expedition as navigator and second in com-
mand. Armitage was an excellent practical navigator, and of
the value of his Polar experience I shall speak later on. He
was thirty-seven when he joined us.

Another member of our community who had seen Arctic
service was our senior doctor, Reginald Koettlitz. Koettlitz
was English in all but name, as his father, a minister of the
Reformed Lutheran Church, had married an English lady and
settled at Dover in the 'sixties. He had been educated at
Dover College, and thence passed to Guy's Hospital. After
qualifying he had settled down in the quietest of country
practices, where he remained for nearly eight years, and might
have remained to the present time but for a sudden impulse to
volunteer his services as doctor to the Jackson-Harmsworth
Expedition. This act had made him a wanderer, for after four
years in the Arctic he accompanied expeditions to Abyssinia,
Somaliland, and Brazil ; and finally, with experiences gathered
in many parts of the globe, he applied for and received his
appointment as medical officer to the Antarctic Expedition.
As his medical duties were expected to be light, he also acted
as botanist to the expedition. As far as the land flora
was concerned, this post was something of a sinecure, as the
Antarctic lands produce only some poor forms of mosses and
lichens, but Koettlitz had also to study and collect the various
marine forms of plant life which are known to science under
the name of phyto-plankton.

Our biologist, Thomas V. Hodgson, was a native of Birming-
ham. With a strong desire to quaUfy in medicine and natural
science, he had been obliged to spend many years in business.

VOL. I. E

50 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

His career shows well the pertinacity which we all came to
recognise in his character, for during the years when he had
been tied to a business which he disUked, he had devoted his
spare hours with ceaseless diligence to scientific study. At
last his chance had come, and he had been appointed to a
small post in the Plymouth Biological Laboratory. From this
time until he joined the expedition in August 1900 his life had
been identified with Plymouth, at first in work connected with
the laboratory and with a science lectureship, and later as
curator of the Plymouth Museum, of which, in one sense, he
may be said to have been the creator, as he guided its first
tottering footsteps. Hodgson's task was to collect by hook or
by crook all the strange beasts that inhabit our Polar seas, and
of the manner in which he went about it these pages will tell.

Koettlitz was forty years of age when he joined the
expedition, and Hodgson thirty-seven. The average age of
the remaining members of our wardroom mess was little over
twenty-four years, so that it may be said they had most of
their lives before them, and after my experience of their
services I have little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar
work.

Charles W. R. Royds was our first lieutenant, and had all
to do with the work of the men and the internal economy of
the ship in the way that is customary with the first lieutenant
of a man-of-war. He had passed into the ' Britannia ' from
the 'Conway' in 1890, and so joining the Naval Service had
reached the rank of Heutenant in 1898. He joined us from
H.M.S. 'Crescent,' then serving as flagship on the North
America station, and came with an excellent record of service
for so young an officer. Throughout our voyage he acted as
our meteorologist, and secured the most valuable records in
this important branch of science in face of difficulties which
this narrative will present.

Our second naval lieutenant was Michael Barne, who had
only recently been promoted to that rank. He had been
educated at Stubbington School in preparation for the Navy,
and had joined the ' Britannia 'in 1891. Later he had served

OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION 51

with me in the ' Majestic,' and I had thought him, as he
proved to be, especially fitted for a voyage where there were
elements of danger and difficulty.

The original idea in appointing two doctors to the ' Dis-
covery ' was that one should be available for a detached
landing party; but, although this idea was practically aban-
doned, there were few things for which we had greater cause to
be thankful than that it had originally existed, for the second
doctor appointed to the expedition was Edward A. Wilson.
Wilson was a native of Cheltenham, and had been educated at the
college of that name and at Caius College, Cambridge ; after
taking his degree he had qualified in medicine at St. George's
Hospital, London, but on leaving the hospital ill health had
obliged him to spend some years abroad. His health was not
wholly re-established when he joined the ' Discovery,' but he
was evidently on the mend, and his fitness for the post in other
respects was obvious. In addition to his medical duties he
was appointed vertebrate zoologist and artist ; in the first
capacity he dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in
a manner which his appendix to this work indicates ; in the
second he was perhaps still more active, and it would take long
even to number all the pictures and sketches he has produced
of the wild scenes amongst which we lived.

I was still serving in the ' Majestic ' when I received my
appointment to the expedition, and it was at that time I realised
that among my messmates was just the man for the post of
chief engineer of the 'Discovery.' This was Reginald W.
Skelton. He was a Norfolk man, and had joined the Navy as
an engineer-student in 1887 ; subsequently he had served in
various ships on various stations until at last he had been
appointed as senior engineer of the ' Majestic,' where I first got
to know him well. One of my earliest acts on behalf of the
expedition was to apply for his services, and it was certainly a
very fortunate one : from first to last of our voyage we never
had serious difficulty with our machinery or with anything
concerning it. But Skelton's utility extended far beyond his
primary duties. I shall have reason to tell of the many ways

52 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

in which he assisted the scientific work of the expedition,
whilst, thanks to his abiUty with the camera, in the course of
his work as photographer-in-chief he produced the most excel-
lent pictures that have ever been obtained by a Polar expedition.

Our geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, joined us only shortly
before the ' Discovery ' sailed. Though born in Ireland he
had spent the early years of his life in South Africa, but he
had returned home to be educated at Oundle School and at
Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge. Events went very rapidly
for Ferrar at the end of his university career; in June 1901 he
took honours in the Natural Science Tripos, in July he was
appointed to the Antarctic Expedition, and in August he sailed
for the Far South. He had very httle time, therefore, to pre-
pare himself for his important work, but he did his best to
make up this deficiency by a steady application to his books
and an increased activity when he arrived at the scene of his
work. As will be seen later, the result of Ferrar's work was to
throw considerable light on the structure of a vast land mass,
no inconsiderable portion of the surface of the earth ; it was a
result, therefore, that cannot but be highly important to geolo-
gical science, and it was achieved by physical labour which
might not have been within the powers of a more experienced
geologist.

Owing to the medical rejection of a former candidate for
the post our physicist, Louis Bernacchi, did not join us until
we reached New Zealand. Bernacchi had been born and
educated in Tasmania ; in 1895 he had joined the Melbourne
Observatory as a student, and had there gained his knowledge
of the special physical work which he has since steadily pursued.
In July 1898 he had joined Sir George Newnes's Expedition
to Cape Adare, and the valuable magnetic observations which
he then made showed that he was capable of undertaking the
more extensive programme connected with this science pro-
posed for our shore station. The delicate instruments which
he manipulated, and the difficulties he had with them, will be
described in due course.

In the roll of the ' Discovery ' I have inscribed the names

OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION 53

of two officers who did not serve throughout the whole term of
the voyage ; my reason will, I think, be clear.

One of these, Ernest H. Shackleton, was forced to leave us
by ill health in 1903, when he was relieved by the other,
George F. A. Mulock, who remained with us until the end of
the voyage. Shackleton was born in Ireland and educated at
Dulwich College ; but at an early age he had taken to the sea,
and as a merchant-service officer had drifted about to various
parts of the world. From casual and irregular voyages he had
passed to the more settled employment of the Union-Castle
Line, and had already begun to make steady progress in that
service when he was appointed to the * Discovery.' His
experience was useful to us in many ways, and as he was
always brimful of enthusiasm and good fellowship, it was to
the regret of all that he left us in 1903.

His successor, Mulock, was a sub-lieutenant in the Navy
when he joined us ; he was then only twenty-one years of age,
but having received some excellent instruction as a surveyor in
H.M.S. 'Triton,' and having a natural bent for this work, his
services proved invaluable. Of this, however, I shall speak at
a later date.

From what I have said of the individuals of our wardroom
mess, the reader will see that, taking them as a whole, there
were two rather noticeable features. The first was youth, con-
cerning the advantages of which for a Polar expedition I could
write many pages; the second was diversity of experience: no
two of us were likely to look at a matter from precisely the
same standpoint. This, I think, was also an advantage : it
gave us larger interests, and generally encouraged that attitude
which is so necessary to the members of a small community —
the determination to live and let live.

Be this as it may, we certainly had reason to congratulate
ourselves on the selection of our officers, for of this there
could be no clearer proof than the fact that we lived together
in complete harmony for three years.

It has been said in the Navy of that useful class of in-
dividuals the warrant officers that they form the backbone of a

54 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

ship's company, and certainly on board the ' Discovery ' the
warrant officers played a highly important part. They lived in
a small berth occupying one corner of the mess-deck, and
comprised the boatswain, carpenter, second engineer, and
ship's steward. With one exception I had known nothing
personally of these men before they joined the expedition, but
I had fully realised the importance of their duties and had
taken great pains to select them from amongst other men who
were recommended to me by my friends. In no case could I
have made a happier choice ; it would be impossible to
exaggerate the admirable manner in which they all did their
duties throughout the voyage.

Our boatswain, Thomas Feather, was a thorough seaman,
and took that intense pride in his charge which was so well
known in the old sailing days. A sailor will understand well
the merits of a boatswain who can make the proud boast that
the * Discovery ' circumnavigated the world without losing a
rope or a sail. Our boatswain, like the rest of us, under new
conditions had to turn his talents into fresh channels ; in the
Far South all that pertained to our sledge equipment was
placed in his charge, and with him rested the responsibility
that everything was in readiness when we started out on our
sledge journeys. And here, as before, he proved his excellence,
for I do not remember a single complaint or breakdown that
could have been obviated by more careful preparation.

In his own department our carpenter, F. E. Dailey, worked
with the same zealous care as the boatswain. He possessed
the same ' eye ' for defects and the same determination that
his charge should be beyond reproach.

I speak feelingly in these matters ; anyone who has been
captain of a ship will know the countless things that continually
get out of order, and he will know, on the one hand, how
annoying it is to have constantly to call attention to them, and,
on the other, how pleasant it is to feel that close supervision is
not necessary. I speak feelingly, therefore, because I was
saved all these minor worries. I knew that whatever was
' adrift ' with the rigging, the hull, or the machinery of the

PETTY OFFICERS AND MEN 55

' Discovery,' it would be put right in the shortest possible
space of time by the warrant officer in whose department
it lay.

J. H. Dellbridge was our chief engineer's right-hand man.
As the responsibilities of the carpenter and boatswain lay with
the hull and rigging, so his lay in the engine-room ; his duties
implied that the engines must never be found wanting, and in
what manner they were carried out this narrative will show.

A ship's steward is a specially important individual in an
exploring vessel ; he has to keep the most exact account of the
stores that are expended, and of those that remain ; he has to
see that provisions are properly examined and properly served
out, and that everything is stowed below in such a manner that
it is forthcoming when required. I had difficulty in filling this
post, to which I have referred, but eventually I decided to give
it to C. R. Ford, who, although a very young man without
experience, showed himself to be well fitted for it in other
respects. He soon mastered every detail of our stores, and
kept his books with such accuracy that I could rely implicitly
on his statements. This also was no small relief where it was
impossible to hold a survey of the stores which remained on
board.

And now I pass on to that long list of petty officers and
men which completes the roll of honour of the ' Discovery.' I
would that space permitted me to give to each that notice
which his services deserved. There is not one name on the
list that does not recall to me a pleasant memory or does not
add to the splendid record of loyalty and devotion with which
I was served. But gladly as I would stay my pen to discuss
individual merits, I have to remember that to tell of the things
we did and the things we saw are the main objects of this
book, and reluctantly I leave the personalities of my sailor
friends to emerge in a more casual manner from its pages.

Yet I cannot pass on without some acknowledgment of
their collective efficiency and some explanation of the manner
in which such a fine body of men was brought together. It
will be remembered that I was serving in the Channel

56 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

Squadron before joining the expedition ; consequently, when
the Admiralty gave permission for naval men to serve in the
* Discovery,' I had friends in each ship of this fleet to whom I
could write asking them to select one or two men from those
who volunteered for the service. It was a simple plan, and
relieved me of the difficulty of picking out names from the very
long list which would have resulted had volunteers been
generally called for. I knew well that amongst British blue-
jackets there would be no lack of good men to volunteer for a
voyage that promised to be so adventurous. Our men, there-
fore, came to us singly or by twos and threes from various
ships ; Evans, Allan, and Quartley came from my old ship the
' Majestic,' Cross and Heald from the ' Jupiter,' Smythe from
the ' St. Vincent,' and so on.

All brought with them that sense of naval discipline which
they displayed so noticeably throughout the voyage. It must
be understood that the ' Discovery,' not being in Government
employment, had no more stringent regulations to enforce
discipline than those which are contained in the Merchant
Shipping Act, and however adequate these may be for com-
mercial purposes, they fail to provide that guarantee for strict
obedience and good behaviour which I believe to be a neces-
sity for such exceptional conditions as exist in Polar service.
Throughout our three years' voyage in the 'Discovery' the
routine of work, the relations between officers and men, and
the general ordering of matters were, as far as circumstances
would permit, precisely such as are customary in His Majesty's
ships. We lived exactly as though the ship and all on board
had been under the Naval Discipline Act ; and as everyone
must have been aware that this pleasing state of affairs was a
faction, the men deserve as much credit as the officers, if not
more, for the fact that it continued to be observed.

Since the return of our expedition it has been acknowledged
that our labours met with a large measure of success, and it
has been recognised that each officer in his particular depart-
ment has added something to the advancement of scientific
knowledge ; and they, as well as I, will be the last to forget

CONCERNING OUR MISSION 57

how much they owed to the rank and file. For my part I can
but say that success in such an expedition as ours is not due to
a single individual, or to a few individuals, but to the loyal
co-operation of all its members, and therefore I must ever
hold in grateful memory that small company of petty officers and
men who worked so cheerfully and loyally for the general good.

I have now endeavoured to give the reader some idea of
the good ship ' Discovery,' and of the gallant crew which
manned her ; it remains to give a clearer account of the
mission on which she was despatched.

It was Sir Clements Markham who first suggested that for
convenience of reference the Antarctic area should be divided
into four quadrants, to be named respectively the Victoria, the
Ross, the Weddell, and the Enderby. Having given a brief
outline of the history of Antarctic research, I will pause here
for a moment to point out the prospects which each of these
quadrants offered for exploration.

The Victoria quadrant included that region which had
been investigated by Wilkes and D'Urville. Whilst it offered
an interesting problem in the discovery of the true extension
of Adelie Land, the prospect of getting to a high latitude in it
did not seem hopeful.

Very little was known of the Enderby quadrant, but much
attention had been called to it by the scientific voyage of the
' Challenger,' and this, with certain evidences connected with
drifting ice, had caused some people to believe that a high
latitude might be reached in this region. This opinion was
especially held in Germany, and it was therefore in this direc-
tion that the ' Gauss ' was steered.

The Weddell quadrant I have already noticed as a region
of exceptional interest. More than once ships had attempted
to penetrate to the open sea reported by Weddell, but they
had invariably found it impossible to do so. But these vessels
had not possessed the power of steam ; with a steamer there
seemed little doubt that Weddell's farthest point could be
reached, and an explorer might determine what lay in the clear
sea which had been seen beyond.

58 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

In spite of the undoubted fascination of this region, how-
ever, it appeared to the promoters of our enterprise that in the
Ross quadrant lay even a fairer prospect of important results.
Though this was the region of which most was known, the
discoveries of Ross, like those of all great explorers, had given
rise to a host of fresh problems. Here it was certain that a
high latitude could be reached, and that the work of the
expedition could be conducted in the heart of the Antarctic
area. Geography saw in this region a prospect of the repro-
duction of those sledging journeys which had done so much
to complete the mapping of the Far North ; meteorology
grasped at a high latitude for the fixed observation of climatic
conditions ; magnetism found in the Ross Sea that area which
most nearly approached the magnetic pole ; geology was
attracted by the unknown mountainous country which fringed
its shores. There was no branch of science, in fact, that
did not see in the Ross quadrant a more hopeful chance of
success than was promised by any other region. When,
therefore, Sir Clements Markham proposed that this direc-
tion should be taken by the expedition, the proposition
met with complete and unanimous assent from all who
were interested in the venture, and long before the
' Discovery ' was built her prospective course had been finally
decided.

It might be thought that with an exploring expedition such
as ours, little more was necessary than to indicate the direction
in which it should go, and to leave the uncertain future in the
hands of those who conducted it. There is much in this view,
and there is no doubt as to the wisdom of leaving to the
commander of an expedition the greatest possible freedom of
action, so that at no time may his decision be restricted by
orders which could not have been conceived with a full
knowledge of the conditions.

But instructions for the conduct of an expedition may
serve a most useful purpose, both for the authorities who issue
them and the commander who receives them, if, without
hampering conditions, they contain a clear statement of the

INSTRUCTIONS ISSUED 59

relative importance of the various objects for which the
expedition is undertaken.

I need not recall the several branches of science which it
was proposed that our expedition should investigate, but I
may point out that there were bound to be innumerable
instances in which their interests clashed. The best-conducted
expedition cannot serve two masters, and in pursuance of one
object is often obliged to neglect others. Although circum-
stances will generally determine the object which can be
pursued most profitably at the moment, where what may be
described as so many vested scientific interests are concerned,
it is obviously of advantage to the commander that he should
know in what light these interests are regarded by those
responsible for the expedition.

The value of instructions, then, is to place before the
leader a general review of the situation, a statement of the
order in which the objects of the expedition are held, and as
much information as can be given without prejudice as to the
wishes of his chiefs. Of such a nature were the instructions
I received before sailing for the South. The original draft
had been prepared by Sir Clements Markham at a very early
date, and, as I have already mentioned, it came subsequently
under the consideration of the Joint Committee of thirty-two
members.

The draft contained many clauses relating to matters ot
opinion, and it was not to be expected that so large a Com-
mittee, containing representatives of so many interests, should
at once agree as to their relative importance or as to the
manner in which the expedition should be conducted.

In consequence of this there was much discussion, with
delay that threatened to impede the progress of the expedition ;
but at this point the Societies wisely decided to submit the
whole question to a body of smaller dimensions, and a Com-
mittee of four was appointed to decide the matter finally.

The four members of this Committee were Lord Lindley,
Sir George Goldie, Sir Leopold McClintock, and Mr. A. B.
Kempe. Thanks to the practical manner in which it dealt

6o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

with the question, and perhaps especially to the great
administrative experiences of Sir George Goldie, all difficulties
were speedily solved, and the instructions were finally drafted.
There can be no doubt that the expedition, as well as the
Societies, owes much to this Committee, which, after piloting
a difficult question through rough waters, furnished instructions
of such a nature as I have previously indicated. In quoting
these instructions I confine myself to such parts as relate to
the conduct of the expedition, disregarding, for obvious
reasons, those which have reference to the conditions of our
service. I also omit several paragraphs which, owing to a
subsequent alteration in the organisation of our officers,
became non-effective.

Extracts from the Instructions under which we Sailed.

. . . The objects of the expedition are (a) to determine, as far
as possible, the nature, condition, and extent of that portion of
the South Polar lands which is included in the scope of your
expedition ; and (d) to make a magnetic survey in the southern
regions to the south of the 40th parallel, and to carry on meteoro-
logical, oceanographic, geological, biological, and physical investi-
gations and researches. Neither of these objects is to be sacrificed
to the other.

. . . We, therefore, impress upon you that the greatest
importance is attached to the series of magnetic observations to
be taken under your superintendence, and we desire that you will
spare no pains to ensure their accuracy and continuity. The base
station for your magnetic work will be at Melbourne or at Christ-
church, New Zealand. A secondary base station is to be estab-
lished by you, if possible, in Victoria Land. You should endeavour
to carry the magnetic survey from the Cape to your primary base
station south of the 40th parallel, and from the same station across
the Pacific to the meridian of Greenwich. It is also desired that
you should observe along the tracks of Ross, in order to ascertain
the magnetic changes that have taken place in the interval between
the two voyages.

... It is desired that the extent of land should be ascertained
by following the coastlines ; that the depth and nature of the ice-

INSTRUCTIONS ISSUED 6i

cap should be investigated, as well as the nature of the volcanic
region, of the mountain ranges, and especially of any fossiliferous
rocks.

. . . You will see that the meteorological observations are
regularly taken every two hours. ... It is very desirable that
there should, if possible, be a series of meteorological observations
to the south of the 74th parallel.

As regards magnetic work and meteorological observations
generally, you will follow the programme arranged between the
German and British Committees, with the terms of which you are
acquainted.

Whenever it is possible, while at sea, deep-sea soundings
should be taken with serial temperatures, and samples of sea-water
at various depths are to be obtained for physical and chemical
analysis. Dredging operations are to be carried on as frequently
as possible, and all opportunities are to be taken for making
biological and geological collections.

. . . The chief points of geographical interest are as follows : —
To explore the ice-barrier of Sir James Ross to its eastern
extremity ; to discover the land which was believed by Ross to
flank the barrier to the eastward, or to ascertain that it does not
exist, and generally to endeavour to solve the very important
physical and geographical questions connected with this remark-
able ice-formation.

Owing to our very imperfect knowledge of the conditions which
prevail in the Antarctic seas, we cannot pronounce definitely
whether it will be necessary for the ship to make her way out of
the ice before the winter sets in, or whether she should winter in
the Antarctic Regions. It is for you to decide on this important
question after a careful examination of the local conditions.

If you should decide to winter in the ice . . . your efforts as
regards geographical exploration should be directed to three
objects, namely — an advance into the western mountains, an
advance to the south, and an exploration of the volcanic region.

... In an enterprise of this nature much must be left to the
discretion and judgment of the commanding officer, and we fully
confide in your combined energy and prudence for the successful
issue of a voyage which will command the attention of all persons
interested in navigation and science throughout the civilised world.

62 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

At the same time we desire you constantly to bear in mind our
anxiety for the heahh, comfort, and safety of all entrusted to your
care.

Such were the principal paragraphs of the instructions which
were signed by the Presidents of the Royal and Royal Geo-
graphical Societies and delivered into my hands, and when
my tale is told I think it will be acknowledged that they were
closely observed.

That part of my story which concerns the preparation of
our venture is almost accomplished, and the reader will now
understand how and why in July 1901 the 'Discovery' lay in
the East India Dock equipped for her long voyage.

Of the difficulties which threatened to avert this happy
accompHshment, space has only permitted me to give the
briefest outline. Dr. Nansen has observed that the hardest
work of a Polar voyage comes in its preparation, and my
remembrance of the years 1 900-1 fully corroborates this
dictum ; but even the troubles and trials of this anxious time
had their bright side, and it is only with pleasure that I can
look back on the kindly assistance which was freely given to
the expedition, and to one who like myself was treading
unaccustomed paths to further its ends.

Briefly and inadequately I have already mentioned the
services of many eminent men who bore a share in our enter-
prise, but such references have by no means included all to
whom our gratitude is due. It is not generally understood
that in undertaking the management of our expedition the two
great Societies concerned assumed an unprecedented responsi-
bility. A great Government department like the Admiralty
would have had Httle difficulty in preparing a dozen such
ventures, because it has all the machinery necessary for dealing
with these matters ; but a learned Society possesses no such
facilities, because as a rule it has no need of them. Neither
the Royal nor the Royal Geographical Society was organised
for the equipment of expeditions, and consequently for them
such a task was beset with difficulties. That all obstacles
were successfully overcome is to the lasting credit of these

THOSE WHO ASSISTED THE EXPEDITION 63

bodies, but especially is it to the honour of those who bore the
chief responsibility as officers of the Societies. I think there
is little doubt that these gentlemen would acknowledge that
during the troublous youth of the Antarctic Expedition they
were more worried over its details than by all the other
business of the Societies which they guided.

Of those who were thus forced to give much attention to
the aifairs of the expedition, and who did so for its benefit,
were the successive Presidents of the Royal Society, Lord
Lister and Sir William Huggins ; the Honorary Secretaries,
Sir Arthur Riicker and Sir Michael Foster ; and the Permanent
Secretary, Mr. Harrison. In speaking of my own experiences,
I have ever to remember the courteous and kindly treatment I
received from these gentlemen. There were many reasons
why my lot was still more closely cast with the Geographical
Society at this time, and here, also, I can speak in the warmest
manner of the treatment I received. Its Secretary, Dr. Scott
Keltic, has always taken the keenest interest in the expedition,
and the services he has rendered to it and to me might alone
occupy a chapter of this book. To the Honorary Secretaries of
this Society also, Major L. Darwin and Mr. J. F. Hughes, my
thanks are due for their continual efforts to make my path smooth;
and of the important services of Dr. H. R. Mill, who was at this
time Librarian of the Society, I shall speak at a later date.

Though on the officers of the Societies fell the greatest
share of the difficulties which beset the expedition, there were
several other gentlemen who in the midst of busy lives spared
many an hour for its service.

As Hydrographer of the Navy, Sir William Wharton under-
took the supply of the greater part of the instruments which we
carried, and in this, as in many other ways, he showed his deep
sympathy with the objects of the expedition.

On Captain E. W. Creak, at that time Director of Com-
passes at the Admiralty, fell all the difficulties of arranging our
long and complicated magnetic programme, and of drawing up
such instructions concerning it as were necessary for our
guidance.

64 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'

Amongst those who gave their services freely on various
committees, in arranging the details of departmental work, and
in adding to the interest of that excellent publication the
' Antarctic Manual,' may be mentioned Mr. R. H. Scott, Mr.
Howard Saunders, Mr. J. Y. Buchanan, Dr. W. T. Blanford,
Mr. P. L. Sclater, Captain T. H. Tizard, Sir Archibald Geikie,
Mr. J. Teall, Professor E. B. Poulton, Sir John Evans, and
Dr. A. Buchan. Not less valuable to me, starting as I did
with no experience of Polar work, was the kindly advice and
assistance I received from those ofificers who had taken part in
Arctic Expeditions ; and for my guidance in numerous respects
I have to thank many a conversation with such eminent travellers
as Sir Vesey Hamilton, Sir George Nares, Sir Albert Markham,
Sir Leopold McClintock, Admiral Aldrich, Admiral Chase
Parr, and perhaps most of all with my old Captain, now
Admiral G. Le C. Egerton.

As will be seen, there were many who had a share in the
building of our Antarctic Expedition ; but even with all this
kindly assistance it is doubtful whether it would ever have
started had it not been that amongst the many who gave to it
some hours from their busy lives was one who, from the first,
had given his whole and undivided attention.

After all is said and done, it was Sir Clements Markham
who conceived the idea of an Antarctic Expedition ; it was his
masterful personality which forced it onward through all
obstruction; and to him, therefore, is mainly due the credit
that at the end of July 1901 we were prepared to set out on
our long voyage and eager to obey the behest :

Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore
Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore.

65

CHAPTER III

VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND

Arrival at Cowes — Visit of the King — Sailing from Cowes — Madeira —
Crossing the Line — South Trinidad — Arrival at the Cape — Simon's
Bay — At Sea in the Westerlies — Alarm of Fire — First Encounter
with the Ice — Southern Birds — Macquarie Island — Lyttelton, New
Zealand — Preparations for Final Departure — Departure from Lyttel-
ton— Fatal Accident — Final Departure from Civilisation.

They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared,
They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered.
Far off — far off the tumult faded and died away,
And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay. — Newbolt,

In spite of difficulties and delays in the delivery of the ship
and in stocking her with the complicated equipment which
had been provided, the ' Discovery' left the London Docks on
the last day of July 1901, and slowly wended her way down
the Thames.

Late on August i we arrived at Spithead, here to carry out
that most important matter of swinging the ship. It may not
be generally known that all ships, before proceeding on a
voyage, are ' swung ' — that is, are turned slowly round, whilst
the errors of their compasses on each point are eliminated by
the application of correcting magnets. Although the great
care taken in building the 'Discovery' to keep all iron away
from the neighbourhood of the compass rendered the use of
correcting magnets unnecessary, yet it had been impossible to
banish the disturbing causes wholly, and it was most necessary
to find out exactly what influence they had, not only on the

VOL. L F

66 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

compass, but on the position in which it was proposed to work
the rarer magnetic instruments — that is to say, in the small
central magnetic deck-house. This work was completed during
the week, and on Monday morning, August 5, we made fast to
a buoy in Cowes Harbour, at this time crowded with yachts
assembled for the famous 'Cowes week.' In the midst of
vessels displaying such delicate beauty of outUne, the ' Dis-
covery,' with her black, solid, sombre hull, her short masts,
square spars, and heavy rigging, formed a striking antithesis, a
fit example to point the contrast of 'work' and 'play.' Shortly
before noon we were honoured by a visit from their Majesties
the King and Queen. The visit was quite informal, but must
be ever memorable from the kindly, gracious interest shown in
the minutest details of our equipment, and the frank expres-
sion of good wishes for our plans and welfare.

In those days we thought much of the grim possibilities of
our voyage. There was ever present before us the unpleasant
reflection that we might start off with a flourish of trumpets
and return with failure. But although we longed to get away
from our country as quietly as possible, we could not but feel
gratified that His Majesty should have shown such personal
sympathy with our enterprise, and it was a deep satisfaction to
know that our efforts would be followed with interest by the
highest in the land, as well as by others of our countrymen
more particularly occupied with the problems before us.

On the afternoon of the 5th the ship was crowded with
visitors, whilst we did our best to make the final preparations
for sea. At noon on the 6th we slipped from our buoy and,
after receiving a visit from the First Lord of the Admiralty,
steered to the west ; a few of our immediate relatives who
had remained on board hastened to say their last farewells,
and, descending into their boats off the little town of Yar-
mouth, waved their adieux as the 'Discovery' steamed towards
the Needles Channel.

How willingly would one dispense with these farewells,
and how truly one feels that the greater burden of sadness is
on those who are left behind ! Before us lay new scenes, new

I90I] DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND 67

interests, expanding horizons ; but who at such times must not
think sorely of the wives and mothers condemned to think of
the past, and hope in silent patience for the future, through
years of suspense and anxiety ?

Early on the 7th the Start was still in sight, but gradually
it shaded from green to blue, till towards noon it vanished in
the distance, and with it our last view of the Old Country.

At this time we had much to learn about the ' Discovery.'
Great as may be the advantage of having a new ship, it can
be readily understood that there are also serious drawbacks.
In addition to our want of familiarity with the details of such
a vessel, her construction, her engines, and so forth, we were
ignorant of her capacity of performance under steam or sail,
and we could not predict with any degree of certainty the
length of time which would be necessary for our long voyage
to New Zealand.

As we steered our course across the Bay of Biscay with
varying baffling winds, it soon became evident that the ' Dis-
covery ' did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions ;
that with favourable winds we could hope for little more than
seven or eight knots, whereas a very moderate head-wind might
reduce her to a fraction of this speed.

Under these conditions our voyage to New Zealand pro-
mised to occupy a very long time, and it became obvious that
we could not stop by the way longer than was absolutely
necessary, since delay in the date of our arrival was limited
by the desire to take full advantage of the Southern summer
of 1 90 1 -2 for our first exploration in the ice.

This proved a most serious drawback, as I had confidently
looked for ample opportunities to make trial of our various
devices for sounding and dredging in the deep sea whilst we
remained in temperate climates. Some of these devices were
new, and with all we were unfamiliar ; and the fact that we
were unable to practise with them during our outward voyage
was severely felt when they came to be used afterwards in
the Antarctic Regions.

On August 14 we sighted the island of Madeira, and late

F 2

68 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

that night anchored off Funchal. The directors of the
Union-Castle Line had generously placed a small quantity
of coal at our disposal at this port, and we hoped to take it
in and to complete some small repairs on the following day ;
but, as luck would have it, this proved a ' Fiesta ' (feast day),
and we were unable to get to sea until the afternoon of the
1 6th, though our courteous agents, Messrs. Blandy, did their
best to hasten the work. On sailing from Madeira we
reluctantly bade farewell to Dr. H. R. Mill, who, as an expert
in oceanography and meteorology, had accompanied us on
the first stage of our journey to assist us in arranging the
various branches of work in these departments.

By this time, however, the routine of our scientific ob-
servations had taken form, and departments had been allotted
to various officers who continued to be responsible for them
throughout the voyage ; and now was commenced that steady,
patient record of observation on which so much of the success
of an expedition must depend.

The analysis of the records of many thousands of ocean
voyages in all parts of the world has resulted in the issue of
sailing directions which give the best advice as to the course
to be taken by various classes of vessels. As a rule full-
powered steamers alone can proceed directly from port to
port ; small-powered steamers and, still more, sailing ships are
obliged to shape a devious course in order to take advantage
of favourable winds and currents. The progress of the
' Discovery ' was so wholly dependent on wind and weather
that in making ocean passages she was obliged to be con-
sidered in this respect as a sailing ship, and to make long
detours which involved the traversing of many hundreds of
miles more than would be required on the direct track.

With the help of the N.E. trade wind we made steady
progress to the south during the third week in August, but
losing the trade in 17 N. lat., our daily run was so reduced by
baffling winds that we did not cross the line till August 31.

The traditional customs of this event were fully observed.
Father Neptune and his Tritons held their court on a platform

I90I] CROSSING THE LINE 69

immediately above a large canvas bath, and the numerous
members of our company who had not yet been introduced to
His Majesty succeeded one another in this rather trying
ordeal. The victim was blindfolded, and seated on the bare
edge of a plank over the bath; in front of him stood the
barber, with a huge jagged pantomime razor, and the barber's
assistant, with a whitewash brush and a bucket of soft soap ;
the unfortunate tyro was then asked questions, and the barber's
assistant showed his deftness with the lather when he opened
his mouth to reply ; after a good deal of such rude horseplay,
usually prolonged in proportion to the victim's reluctance as
shown by his struggles to escape, a last push sent him
floundering into the bath below.

Immediately on crossing the line we fell in with the S.E.
trade wind, and stopped our engines to give them a much-
needed refit. Remaining under sail during the ensuing nine
days, we had some opportunity of gauging the sailing
qualities of the ship, and found to our chagrin that they were
exceedingly poor. Although we made some progress through
the water, the course laid and the leeway made carried us far
to the westward, and comparatively close to the South American
coast. On September 9 we raised steam and shaped our course
for South Trinidad Island. Since our departure from Madeira
we had suffered some trouble from the leaking of the ' Dis-
covery.' Much of it sprang from the hopeful prediction of the
builders that there would be no leak, and in consequence of
this no flooring had been placed in the holds to lift the pro-
visions above any water which might collect, and the provision
cases had been packed close down to the keel. When the
water began to enter, therefore, there was no well in which it
could lie, and it rose amongst the cases, causing a good deal of
damage. In the old days it had always been expected that a
wooden ship would leak, and the more pleasing hope with
regard to the ' Discovery ' was based on the fact that she
possessed two layers of planking on the outside of her frames
and one on the inside. In this respect, however, the fact

70 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

proved rather a disadvantage than otherwise, as it made it most
difficult to localise the spot at which the water was entering,
and there was every chance that it passed through the inner
skin at quite a different place from that at which it had pene-
trated the outer. As soon as we were assured of calm seas
the holds were unstowed and a flooring built, but this was not
effected before we had suffered considerable damage to our
provisions, which we were afterwards put to some expense in
replacing.

Later on we had the annoyance of seeing the report of our
leak exaggerated and represented as a danger to the ship.
This it never was, but of course the water that entered had to
be pumped out ; and if the whole voyage is considered, the
sum total of hours spent in pumping out the ' Discovery ' is a
large one.

The island of South Trinidad is an isolated mass of
volcanic rock lying some 500 miles to the east of the continent
of South America. It has been frequently visited, though not
regularly, and a fascinating description is given of it in ' The
Cruise of the " Falcon " ' (E. F. Knight). Few naturalists
have landed on it, and as it lay on our route I thought our
time would not be wasted in giving our officers an opportunity
of a run ashore. We sighted it on the morning of the 13th,
and, approaching the western side, manned our boats and
pulled for the shore. The ocean swell was breaking heavily
along the whole coast, and the prospect of landing looked
doubtful, but at length we found a small natural pier which
seemed to afford some shelter from the heavy rollers ; even
here, however, our small boats were at one moment lifted high
above the rocks, and at the next had dropped many feet below
them. The attempt to land seemed hazardous, and on inquir-
ing if all on board could swim, I found that one at least could
not ; but the shore looked too enticing to our sea-accustomed
eyes to be abandoned without an effort, and, handling the boats
with care, we eventually succeeded in taking advantage of the
lift of each wave to leap one by one on to the rocks, and at
length all except the boat-keepers were safely landed.

I90I] TOWARDS THE CAPE 71

On the rocky shore we scattered in various directions, some
of us climbing to a Hne of tree-ferns 1,200 feet above the sea ;
and the day passed pleasantly as we rambled about in search
of specimens of life peculiar to the island. Little of novelty
could be expected from a stay of six hours, but we had the
satisfaction of finding a few species new to science, of which
perhaps the most important was a new petrel, afterwards
named '■ /^strelata Wihoni^ after our zoologist. Dr. Wilson.
We left South Trinidad the same night and steered to the
south to get into the region of westerly winds. On the i8th
our coal supply was getting so short that I decided to proceed
under sail and husband what remained of our limited stock.
The wind proved very fitful, but by keeping well to the south
we received it from the westward, and made slow but sure
progress towards our destination.

On October 2 we arrived within 150 miles of the Cape, and,
getting up steam, rounded Green Point and entered Table Bay
at four o'clock on the 3rd. On the 4th we refilled our bunkers
with coal, and that night put to sea once more, to take up our
quarters off the naval station at Simon's Bay. It was during
this short passage that we first appreciated the ' Discovery's '
ability to roll : on meeting a heavy swell off the Cape Penin-
sula during the night, our small ship, without any sail to steady
her, was swung from side to side through an angle of 90°, and
as some of our furniture was not well secured, chaos reigned
below and discomfort everywhere.

The main object of our stay at the Cape was to obtain
comparisons with our magnetic instruments. The instruments
which are used in a ship for taking observations of the various
magnetic elements are unfortunately subject to change, and
consequently the observations at sea are of little value unless
such changes are known. Whenever it is possible, therefore,
the sea instruments are compared with absolute values on land,
and by this means the sea observations are corrected. The
observations to be taken on our voyage to New Zealand were
an important part of our magnetic survey, and it was highly
desirable that the errors of the instruments to be used should

72 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

be obtained before and after the voyage— that is, at the Cape
and in New Zealand.

To compare all our instruments with suitable care was a
long and tedious operation. There being no fixed magnetic
observatory at the Cape, the work was done in tents, kindly
lent by the Admiral and pitched on a plateau beyond the hills
immediately surrounding the port. It was carried out by
Lieutenants Armitage and Barne, with the kind assistance of
Professors Beatty and Morrison, of the Cape University ; and
as it could only be continued during the daylight hours, ten
days passed before all the observations were completed. On
board the ship every advantage was taken of this spell to refit.
The rigging was set up afresh, the deck and top sides of the
ship were re-caulked, the engines were overhauled, and the
weed was removed from the bottom by the divers of the fleet.

At this time the war was proceeding, and things were in an
unsatisfactory state ; guerilla bands had penetrated so far into
the Colony that martial law had been proclaimed at Capetown ;
the termination of hostilities seemed very remote ; ofificials and
residents took a gloomy view of the outlook. Under these
circumstances it is additionally pleasing to record the great
kindness which we received at all hands, the ready assistance
which was offered us, both in our scientific work and in the
more practical requirements of the ship, and the kindly hos-
pitality which made our visit so pleasant. Our peaceful mis-
sion was regarded with sympathy and interest by all, and we
remember with gratitude the entertainment provided for us by
His Excellency the Governor, Sir Walter Hely- Hutchinson, by
Sir David Gill and the members of the Philosophical Society,
and by Mr. Andrews, of the Union-Castle Line. But above
all we owed thanks to the Naval Commander in-Chief, Sir
Arthur Moore, who placed at our disposal the resources of the
naval dockyard for our repairs, and most generously extended
to our officers the hospitality of Admiralty House. It is diffi-
cult to express how much we owed to these attentions, which
smoothed our difficulties and obviated all chance of unnecessary
delay.

I90I] AT SEA IN THE WESTERLIES 73

By October 14 our refitting and the magnetic observations
had been completed, and all preparations had been made for
sea. In the morning Mr. George Murray bade us farewell,
much to our regret ; he had originally been appointed to
accompany the ship to Melbourne, but owing to the unex-
pected delays of our voyage, I had perforce decided to go
direct to New Zealand without calling at that port. The
additional length of the voyage, and the delay already ex-
perienced, would have prolonged his absence from his regular
work at the British Museum to such an extent that Mr.
Murray thought it best to return direct from the Cape. After a
last farewell to all our naval friends, at noon we slowly steamed
out of the harbour, accompanied by the cheers of the war-
ships, and proud of this last tribute of their generous sympathy.

For nearly a week after our departure from the Cape we
had light westerly winds — an unusual experience, especially as
we were now well in that belt known to sailors as the ' Roaring
Forties ' ; but after the first week we had little to complain of
on the score of wind, and our daily run became a much more
satisfactory thing to contemplate. Towards the end of the
month we had a succession of heavy following gales, and
although we had put out our fires and were dependent on sail
power alone, we frequently exceeded 200 miles in the day, an
exceedingly good run for a ship of the ' Discovery's ' type.

As time went on we became more and more satisfied with
the seaworthy qualities of our small ship ; she proved wonder-
fully stiff, and as her sail area was small, it was rarely, if ever,
necessary to shorten sail even in the most violent gales ; she
rose like a cork to the mountainous seas that now followed in
her wake, and, considering her size, was wonderfully free of
water on the upper deck.

With a heavy following sea, however, she was, owing to her
buoyancy, extremely lively, and we frequently recorded rolls
of more than 40°. The peculiar rounded shape of the stern
to which I have referred, and which had given rise to so much
criticism, was now well tested. It gave additional buoyancy
to the after-end, causing the ship to rise more quickly to the

74 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

seas, but the same lifting effect was also directed to throwing
the ship off her course, and consequently she was more
difficult to steer. Our helmsmen gradually became more
expert, but at first when some mountainous wave caught us
up, we narrowly escaped broaching-to, and on one occasion
we actually did so. I happened to be on the bridge at the
time, with some other officers, as our small vessel swerved
round and was immediately swept by a monstrous sea, which
made a clean breach over her ; we clutched instinctively at
the bridge rails, and for several moments were completely sub-
merged, whilst the spray dashed as high as our upper topsails.
A great deal of water found its way below, flooding the ward-
room and many of the cabins, from the decks of which people
were soon busily picking up books and garments in a more or
less sodden condition. Needless to say, we did our best to
avoid ' broaching-to ' again.

On October 31 we accomplished our record run under sail
alone, driving before a very heavy gale. This amounted
to 223 miles in the twenty-four hours. We were now gradually
increasing our latitude, until on November 12 we were in
lat. 51 vS., long. 131 E., when we arrived in an extremely
interesting magnetic area, and I decided to steer to the south
to explore it more effectively.

The exact reason for this decision is somewhat technical,
but I may briefly recall that amongst the elements that came
within the purview of our magnetic survey was that of mag-
netic force or the actual pull exercised by the earth at various
places. The only data previously available seemed to show
a curious inconsistency in the distribution of this force to the
northward of the Magnetic Pole, where we had now arrived,
and consequently it was desirable to make our survey in this
region as extensive as possible. This new course took us well
to the south, far out of the track of ships and towards the
regions of ice.

It was almost on arrival in these lonely waters that I was
awakened one night by a loud knocking and a voice shouting,
' Ship's afire, sir.' I sprang up full of ' Where? ' ' When ? ' and

I90I] FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH THE ICE 75

' How ? ' only to find that my informant had fled. As may be
imagined, I was not long in getting on the deck, which was very
dark and obstructed by numerous other half-clad people, who
knew no more than I. Making my way forward I at length
found, amidst streams of water and a slight smell of burning,
the officer of the watch, who explained that the fire had been
under the forecastle, but had been easily extinguished when
the hose had been brought to bear on it. It eventually trans-
pired that the rolling of the ship had brought some oilskins
dangerously close to a police light, and that this had not been
discovered until the woodwork round about was blazing
merrily. In these days, steel ships and electric lights tend to
lessen the fear of fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible
consequences are too serious not to make the danger a very
real one, nor to allow such a report as was made to me to be
received without alarm. The risk of fire was one which was
very constantly in my thoughts ; it must always loom large in
a wooden ship, and I am not at all sure that it is much
lessened in a polar climate, whereas in polar regions the con-
sequences may be vastly increased. It can be imagined that
after such an experience as this, I was not less likely to realise
the peril, but as events turned out, I am happy to say, this was
the first and last occasion on which an alarm of fire was
raised : we were never again scared with such a report.

On November 15 we crossed the 60th parallel, and on the
following morning much excitement was caused by our first
sight of the sea-ice. At first we saw only small pieces, worn
into fantastic shape by the action of the waves, but as the
afternoon advanced signs of a heavier pack appeared ahead,
and soon the loose floes were all about us, and the ' Discovery '
was pushing her way amongst them, receiving her baptism
of ice.

As night closed down on us we became closely surrounded
by the pack, which consisted of comparatively small pieces of
ice from two to three feet in thickness and much worn at
their edges by the constant movement of the swell. The
novelty of our surroundings impressed us greatly. The wind

76 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Nov.

had died away ; what Hght remained was reflected in a ghostly
glimmer from the white surface of the pack ; now and again a
white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding of
the floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more
subdued hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for
the first time we felt something of the solemnity of these great
Southern solitudes.

We had now reached lat. 62.50 S., long. 139 E., and were
within 200 miles of Adelie Land, discovered by Dumont
D'Urville. With steam we should have had small difficulty in
pushing on towards the land ; but already our delays had been
excessive, and we knew that we could not add to them if we
were to reach New Zealand betimes. Reluctantly the ship's
head was once more turned towards the north and we passed
again into looser ice. On the following day we passed a small
iceberg, the only one seen in this region. Two soundings
taken about this time gave depths of 2,500 and 2,300 fathoms
respectively, showing that the ocean depths must extend
moderately close to Adelie Land ; but a third taken at our
more southerly position gave 1,750 fathoms, rather indicating
that the shoaling of the greater depths was commencing.

The tempestuous seas of the Southern oceans have one
great feature, lacking in other oceans, in the quantity and
variety of their bird life. The fact supplies an interest to the
voyager which can scarcely be appreciated by those who have
not experienced it, for not only are these roaming, tireless
birds seen in the distance, but in the majority of cases they
are attracted by a ship and gather close about her for hours,
and even days. The greater number are of the petrel tribe,
and vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their huge
spread of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson
stormy petrel, which flits under the foaming crests of the waves.
For centuries these birds have been the friends of sailors, who
designated them by more or less familiar names, some of which
have been preserved, whilst others have been dropped for more
definite titles. In the older accounts of voyages it is often
difficult to recognise the birds referred to ; for instance, the

I90I] SOUTHERN BIRDS 77

term ' Eglet ' seems to have been applied to various species.
But the ' Wanderer,' * Sooty,' ' Cape Hen,' ' Cape Pigeon,'
' Giant Petrel,' and many others are survivals which the ordinary
man still prefers to employ in preference to the scientific
designation. It was the shooting of a ' Sooty ' albatross by one
Simon Hartley in Shelvocke's voyage that supplied the theme
immortalised in the ' Ancient Mariner.'

Our zoologist Dr. Wilson was possessed of the necessary
knowledge to distinguish and name our various visitors, and
with his assistance most of us soon became familiar with even
the rarer species. This not only added greatly to the interest
of the voyage, but enabled us in turn to assist in keeping the
record of such visits.

Various devices were resorted to in our endeavours to
capture birds for our collection, and sooner or later examples
of most of the species were brought on board. The larger
albatrosses were caught by towing a small metal triangle, well
baited; when a bird settled, the line would be slacked, and as
it pecked at the bait a jerk of the line would sometimes catch
its beak in the sharp angle of the triangle, when by keeping a
steady strain on the line the bird could be landed. The
smaller birds were usually caught by becoming entangled in
long streamers of strong thread which were allowed to float
away in the wind. A lead weight on the end of a string was
also a means of capturing such birds as flew close to the ship.

The weight would be thrown over the bird so that, in fall-
ing, the string would descend across the wings. All such
devices required mucn patience and deftness to be effective,
and our most successful bird catchers, the chief engineer, Mr.
Skelton, and the second engineer, Mr. Dellbridge, spent many
a patient hour before they were rewarded with a capture.

The larger albatrosses rarely go as far south as the ice, but
the smaller species of white albatrosses, as well as the dusky,
sinister-looking ' Sooty,' accompanied us as far as the edge of
the pack. But the birds which live in the regions of ice are
rarely met with in the more northerly seas, though a few are
widely distributed. It may be taken for granted that all the

78 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Nov.

birds inhabiting the icy seas are now known ; sooner or later
during our voyage we saw all, but we were not often in circum-
stances to make such a good bag as during our short visit to
the ice in November. It was then that for the first time we
saw and captured the Southern Fulmar, a beautiful bluish-grey
petrel ; the Antarctic petrel, a white bird with brown barred
wings and head ; the Snow petrel, with its pure white plumage •
and two species of the small blue Prion or Whale-bird.

On November 22 we sighted Macquarie Island, which lies
about 600 miles S.W, of New Zealand, and as we came
abreast of it early in the afternoon I thought we might devote
the few hours of daylight which remained to an excursion on
shore. We accordingly anchored in Fisherman's Cove, a
poorly-sheltered spot to the eastward of the island, and after
pushing through thick kelp we succeeded in landing on a
sheltered beach, and our naturalists were soon busily at work
making collections. The western slopes of the island are
bare, but on the eastern side a coarse tussock grass grows
thickly and makes walking rather difficult. Our attention was
principally devoted to the penguin rookeries on the beach, ot
which there were two inhabited by different species of birds,
the larger and more numerous kind being the richly coloured
King penguin, and the other a small crested penguin
{Schlegeli).

It was the first time that any of us had seen a penguin
rookery, and every detail of their strange habits proved
absorbingly interesting; we were lucky enough to have arrived
during the nesting season, and were able to collect specimens
of eggs and of the young in various stages of development.
Perhaps the most excited member of our party was my small
Aberdeen terrier ' Scamp,' who was highly delighted with his
run on shore, until he came to the penguins, when he was
most obviously and comically divided between a desire to run
away and a feeling that he ought to appear bold in such
strange company. The result was a series of short rushes,
made with suppressed growls and every hair bristling, but
ending at a very safe distance. I may add that ' Scamp '

I90I] LYTTELTON, NEW ZEALAND 79

found a comfortable home in New Zealand ; it was felt that
an Antarctic climate would prove too much for him ; and in
becoming the idol of a household he quickly forgot his former
acquaintances.

As night fell we weighed our anchor and proceeded to the
north, sighting the Auckland Islands on the 25th, and rather
foolishly shaping our course to pass to windward of them.
As we came abreast of the land the wind became very fresh,
and with a strong set to leeward we were for some time
anxious about our prospect of weathering it. Eventually,
however, we were lucky enough to clear the rocks at the
northern end just before the wind increased to a full gale,
which, with a heavy sea, caused us to lurch on one occasion to
an angle of 55°, and kept us in considerable discomfort below.
Late on the 29th we arrived off Lyttelton Heads, and on the
following day were berthed alongside a jetty in the harbour.

It is most difficult to speak in fitting terms of the kindness
shown to us in New Zealand, both at this time and on our
return from the Antarctic Regions. The general kindness and
hospitality of New Zealanders are well known to every
stranger who has visited the country, but in our case there was
added a keen and intelligent interest in all that concerned the
expedition, and a whole-hearted desire to further its aims.
Officers and men were received with open arms and quickly
made friends — friends who hastened to assure them that
although already separated by many thousands of miles from
their native land, here in this new land they would find a
second home, and those who would equally think of them in
their absence and welcome them on their return.

But it is not only for private but for public kindness and
sympathy that we have to thank the people of New Zealand :
on all sides we received the most generous treatment. All
charges for harbour dues, docking, wharfage, &c., were remitted
to us by the Lyttelton Harbour Board, and the sum thus saved
to the expedition throughout the voyage was very large. The
railway authorities gave us many facilities for the transport of
our stores, and issued free tickets to officers and men for passage

8o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Dec.

over their lines. On every side we were accorded the most
generous terms by the firms or individuals with whom we had
to deal in business matters. By the Christchurch Magnetic
Observatory and by the Christchurch Museum we were offered
numerous facilities in carrying on our scientific work. Later
on, to add to this noble record of sympathetic help, the
Government of New Zealand subscribed i,ooo/. towards the
expenses of the relief ship.

In considering such general kindness it is almost invidious
to mention particular names, but the following gentlemen are
amongst those who must be especially remembered by us for
the manner in which they were ever ready to assist us : His
Excellency the Governor, Lord Ranfurly ; the Premier, Mr.
Seddon ; the Hon. C. C. Bowen ; Captain Hutton, of the
Christchurch Museum ; Mr. Kinsey, Mr. Waymouth, Mr. A.
Rhodes, Mr. Coleridge Farr, of the Christchurch Observatory,
and Mr. H. J. Miller, of Lyttelton.

A great deal of work lay before us at Lyttelton. The
rigging had to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted ; this
was taken in hand at once, and the work was much expedited
by assistance given by working parties sent by H.M.S. ' Ringa-
rooma.' The ' Ringarooma ' had been directed to lend us all
possible aid by the Admiral, Sir Lewis Beaumont, who, as an
old Arctic traveller, took an especial interest in our mission,
and the Admiral's wishes were most thoroughly carried out by
Captain Rich, of that vessel. Meanwhile our magneticians
were forced to undertake again the comparison of their delicate
instruments, and as this was the last occasion on which it could
be done, special care and attention were necessary ; but now,
instead of camping in tents on a heathery hill plateau as they
had done at the Cape, they were able to carry on their work
in an observatory equipped with every modern convenience,
and directed by an official who was not only eager to render
them every assistance, but was preparing himself to take an
important part in the international programme of observations
which were to be taken in connection with our magnetic work
in the Far South. Even with such facilities a long and trouble-

I90I] PREPARATIONS. FOR FINAL DEPARTURE 8i

some task lay before our observers, but luckily their comple-
ment was now complete, for we found the last of our officers,
Mr. Bernacchi, awaiting us on our arrival ; so pushed had we
been with many of our arrangements in England that this
ofificer had been obliged to remain behind and to spend the
weeks which could be saved by a rapid steamer voyage in
getting together and studying the delicate recording instru-
ments which were needed for our Southern station. And so,
for the time being, the members of our small community were
scattered once more, and whilst each was working at his special
task in more than one place there was bustle and hurry to be
prepared for the date of our final sailing.

At Lyttelton we found awaiting us large quantities of stores
ready to be shipped for our long voyage, and since, as I have
already mentioned, some of the stores in the ' Discovery ' had
been damaged by the leaky state of the ship, it was neces-
sary to replace these by purchases in New Zealand. It was
when I appreciated the excellence of the goods obtained in
this manner I regretted that we had not relied on New Zealand
for the greater part of our provisions. Were I to go again on
such an expedition, I should certainly do this. Tinned meat,
flour, cheese, and, in fact, every necessary for a voyage, can be
obtained at moderate prices and of most excellent quality ; and
the fact that in such an expedition as ours these provisions
would not have had to come through the tropics, is, I think, of
very great importance.

The case of butter may be especially mentioned. The
tinned Danish butter which we had brought from Europe was
as satisfactory as tinned butter could be, but in New Zealand
we were able to purchase fresh butter which is largely exported
in cases of white pine, and we found that it was quite possible
to keep these cases sound through the short voyage to the
Antarctic Circle, after which they could be relied on to keep
for any length of time.

Owing to the damage done to our provisions, and wishing,
moreover, to know exactly where everything was stowed, we
thought it advisable to re-stow our holds at Lyttelton, a task
VOL. I. G

82 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Dec.

which meant a good deal of labour, but ensured our being able
to take advantage of every corner of the hold-space. As soon
as it could conveniently be done, the ' Discovery ' was docked
and every effort was made to stop the leak. This, as I have
pointed out, was a difficult matter owing to the several layers
of planking. A thorough examination of the ship's bottom
revealed not a few defects which should have been remedied
before the ship was launched, but though these defects were
made good and the bottom was thoroughly caulked, we found,
when the ship was again afloat, that the leak was not stopped.
The chagrin of our excellent contractor, Mr. H. J. Miller, was
as deep as our own, and for his own satisfaction he begged
that the ship might be docked again at his expense : this time
he removed all the heavy steel plates that protected the bow of
the ship, hoping that the fault might be found beneath them ;
but though more defects were made good and every inch of
the bottom was examined, we had the intense annoyance of
seeing the water again entering when the ship was once more
afloat. Every effort had been made, we could do no more ;
and the result served to show the extreme difficulty of localis-
ing such a fault in a ship of this kind. Amongst the many
skilled workmen whose united labour had produced the solid
structure of the ' Discovery's ' hull, had been one who had
scamped his task, no doubt knowing full well that he was free
from all chance of detection, and for this we were condemned to
suffer throughout our voyage. The leak never grew serious, and
when we were in the ice it was very much reduced ; but, as I have
said, first and last we spent on the pumps many a weary hour
that could ill be spared with so much other work to be done.

As the month of December advanced the ' Discovery '
became a very busy scene; parties of men were employed in
stowing every hole and corner of the available storage-space,
the upper deck was littered with packing cases of all sorts,
whilst many truck-loads of stores still stood waiting on the
wharf. As usual in such cases, the prospect of getting
everything stowed seemed hopeless. Meanwhile, whenever
permitted, flocks of curious visitors added to the confusion;

igoi] DEPARTURE FROM LYTTELTON 83

but as many of these had come from a long distance, it was
impossible not to accede to their almost pathetic requests to
be allowed to see the ship.

At last came the day for sailing from Lyttelton, but not
for our final departure from civilisation, for we yet proposed to
make a short visit to Port Chalmers in the south to complete
our stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21, the ' Discovery '
lay alongside the wharf ready for sea and very deeply laden.
Below, every hold and stowage-space was packed to the brim-
even the cabins were invaded with odd cases for which no
corner could be found. But the scene on deck was still more
extraordinary. Here, again, were numerous packing-cases for
which no more convenient resting-place could be found ; the
afterpart of the deck was occupied by a terrified flock of forty-
five sheep, a last and most welcome present from the farmers
of New Zealand. Amidst this constantly stampeding body
stood the helmsman at the wheel ; further forward were sacks
of food, and what space remained was occupied by our twenty-
three howling dogs in a wild state of excitement. Above the
deck, the skid-beams, fitted for the carriage of our boats, were
in addition piled high with the woodwork of our huts, adding,
as we estimated, a weight of some thirty tons, and therefore
requiring to be secured with many lashings and much care.
Here and there stood little groups of our friends waiting for the
last handshake and to wish us Godspeed, and incidentally
doing their best to separate the combatants in a dog-fight.

As may be imagined, the ship was not in a condition in
which one could look forward with pleasure to crossing the
stormiest ocean in the world. One could reflect that it would
have been impossible to have got more into her, and that all
we had got seemed necessary for the voyage ; for the rest we
could only trust that Providence would vouchsafe to us fine
weather and an easy passage to the south.

Before noon our small company was collected on the mess-
deck and a short service of farewell was held by the Bishop of
Christchurch — a simple, touching ceremony gratifying to all.
At 2 P.M. we cast off" our warps and steamed slowly out of the

G 2

84 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Dec.

harbour, but New Zealand was determined we should know
how thoroughly it was interested in our venture and how
heartily it wished us success. Special trains from Christchurch
had borne thousands to the port to bid us farewell. Wharves
and quays were packed with enthusiastic figures. It was indeed
a great * send-off'; two men-of-war — the 'Ringarooma' and
' Lizard ' — steamed out slowly ahead of us, whilst no fewer
than five gaily dressed steamers, crowded with passengers, and
with bands playing and whistles hooting, thronged about us.
Cheer followed cheer as we steamed out towards the ' Heads ' ;
assembled in the rigging, on mast or spar, our small party of
adventurers did their best to respond to this kindly expression
of good feeling, until, as we entered the open sea, with a last
burst of cheering and a final flutter of handkerchiefs, our kind
friends turned away, and slowly we steamed out between the
war-ships that seemed to stand as sentinels to the bay.

And now, whilst our hearts were full of this leave-taking,
whilst with our glasses we could still discern the forms of our
friends in the receding vessels, there happened one of those
tragedies that awake one to the grim realities of life. Amongst
our enthusiastic ship's company who had crowded into the
rigging to wave their farewells, was one young seaman, named
Charles Bonner, who, more venturesome than the rest, had
climbed above the crow's-nest to the top of the main-mast.
There, seated on the truck, he had remained cheering with the
rest, until in a moment of madness he raised himself into a
standing position, supported only by the slender wind vane
which capped the mast. Precisely what happened can never
be known ; possibly the first of the sea swell caused him to
lose his balance ; we below only know that, arrested by a wild
cry, we turned to see a figure hurtling through the air, still
grasping the wind vane from the masthead. He fell head
foremost on the corner of an iron deckhouse, and death was
instantaneous. The body was borne through the confused
obstructions on the deck to the stern gratings, and covered
reverently with the Union Jack, whilst sadness and gloom
descended on the ship and damped for the time all thought
of our future in the South. Though this was on Saturday,

I90I] GOOD-BYE TO CIVILISATION 85

it was not until Monday that we arrived at Port Chalmers,
owing to delay from a strong head wind. Captain Rich, of
the 'Ringarooma' had kindly promised to make arrangements
for the funeral of our poor shipmate, and though we only
arrived at 4 p.m., an inquest was immediately held, and the
body buried with naval honours at 6 p.m. Bonner was a smart
young seaman, already popular on board, and his untimely
death was much felt ; but in the busy life we were now leading
there was little time for sad thought, and the gloom of this
unfortunate accident was rapidly dispelled in the activities of
the voyage.

Of all the stores we carried, coal was perhaps the most
important, and I had determined to wedge in every ton we
could carry, more especially as, through the generosity of Mr.
John Mill, of Port Chalmers, such coal as we received there
was a free gift.

Early on the morning of the 24th we managed to increase
our already crowded deck cargo by the addition of 45 tons of
coal, which with 285 tons already in the bunkers, brought our
total up to 330 tons, a quantity which, although it may not
sound great to those who know the consumption of modern
steamers, sufficed for all our needs for more than two years.

At 9.30 A.M. we left the wharf after saying farewell to the
few friends who had gathered in the port even at this early
hour. The ' Ringarooma,' to whose officers and men we were
so deeply indebted for assistance in the past, ' manned ship '
and cheered us yet once again, and soon, in company with a
tug, we were wending our way down the long, tortuous channel
which leads to the sea.

By noon we were clear of the harbour bar, with a good
offing, and with a fresh breeze from the N.E., we loosed our
sails, and were soon briskly bowling along towards the south
under steam and sail. A hoarse shout and a hoarser whistling
from our friendly tug, a final wave from the signal station on
the cliff, and we were away. The last view of civilisation, the
last sight of fields, and trees, and flowers, had come and gone
on Christmas Eve, 1901, and as the night fell, the blue outline
of friendly New Zealand was lost to us in the northern twilight.

86 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Dec.

CHAPTER IV

SOUTHWARD HO !

Steering to the South — Fog — Icebergs — Entering Pack-ice —Life in the
Pack— Nature of Pack — Slow Progress — ' Watering Ship ' — Southern
Edge of Pack — The Ross Sea — First Sight of Victoria Land — Cape
Adare — Danger in the Pack — Coulman Island — Heavy Gale — Landing
in Lady Newnes Bay — Killing Seals — Wood Bay — Cape Washington —
Coasting South — Landing in Granite Harbour — A Well-sheltered
Spot — McMurdo Sound — Stopped by the Pack — Turning to the East.

In fog and heavy weather,

Through wildering sleet and snow,

We fought the ice together,

On a track where no ships go. — Anon.

Christmas Day, 1901, found us on the open expanse of the
Southern Ocean, but after such a recent parting from our
friends we had none of us much heart for the festivities of the
season, and the day passed quietly.

The wind held fair for our voyage, at first from the N.E.,
but gradually shifting round to the west. At noon on the 26th
we were able to stop engines, and our heavily laden ship
plunged on towards the south under all the canvas that could
be spread.

Although as a rule there are fewer gales to the south of
New Zealand at this time of the year than at any other, it is
not at all possible to rely on fine weather, and in the fact that
we escaped a ' blow ' whilst traversing these stormy seas we
had to congratulate ourselves on exceedingly good fortune.
The ' Discovery ' had little to fear from the worst gales when
in good sea trim, but at this time had we encountered a heavy

I90I] FOG 87

sea the consequences would have been exceedingly unpleasant.
We must inevitably have lost much of our large deck cargo :
the masses of wood on the superstructure would have been in
great danger, whilst all our sheep and possibly many of the
dogs would have been drowned.

As the days went by and we approached the Antarctic
Circle, we felt how exceptionally fortunate we were in the
continuance of fine weather. Although on the 28th the wind
failed us and we were obliged to raise steam, on the 29th we
were again favoured by a fresh breeze, and fell back once more
on our policy of using the sails and saving the coal.

On the 31st we were in lat. 61 S., the temperature of both
sea and air had fallen to 39°, and we had daylight throughout
the twenty-four hours ; but we now fell in with one of the
commonest evils in these latitudes, a thick fog, and as we did
not know how soon we might come upon icebergs, a very sharp
' look-out ' was necessary.

The fog remained with us until the afternoon of January 2,
occasionally lifting for a few hours, but again descending like a
thick pall, and giving us at least one reason for being resigned
to our very limited speed of five knots. A fact that adds to
the depressing effect of a fog is that one's friendly companions
the sea birds disappear, and one realises a curious sense of
desertion as one peers into the unbroken grey, wondering
when some monster iceberg will loom up, and prepared for
instant action to avoid collision with it.

On the afternoon of the 2nd the weather cleared, and
shortly after we sighted our first iceberg in lat. 65^ S. Other
bergs soon rose above our horizon, and in the evening we
counted seventeen about us, none more than four or five
hundred yards in length, and although generally of a tabular
shape, they were not more than 90 or 100 feet in height.

The nature and origin of the southern iceberg have always
been a subject of some mystery. In the Northern Hemi-
sphere, where glaciers push down into the sea, fragments,
often of considerable size, become detached and are carried
by currents to decay in milder climates.

88 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

Early Southern voyagers had doubtless a knowledge of
these northern bergs, but in the southern oceans they met
with masses of ice incomparably larger than anything known
in the North, and to these they gave the name of Ice Islands,
or often enough went yet farther and named them as new
lands. Even Cook preserves the name of Ice Island in
describing the long tabular berg so typical of the Southern
Regions.

Except in cases where they have suffered denudation or
have lost their stability and capsized, the shape of Antarctic
icebergs is uniform : they have all a flat top and wall sides,
and appear to have broken quietly away from some huge
sheet of ice of which they formed a part. In 1854 an ice-
berg of this description was reported as fifty miles in length
and 150 feet in height. Several accounts give thirty or forty
miles as the length, and the height has been even stated to be
as much as 400 feet. The longest berg reported by Ross was
four miles long and 150 feet in height, but he gives a greater
height for many others. The ' Challenger ' saw bergs of at
least four miles in length and 200 feet in height. The largest
berg we saw was aground off King Edward's Land, and we
estimated it as about seven miles long and 200 feet high.
Doubtless some of the larger dimensions here given are exag-
gerated, but in view of the fact that, as I hope to show, ice-
bergs can be detached from a fixed but floating mass of ice,
I see no reason why their length should be limited.

The whole subject of Antarctic icebergs is of more than
purely polar or scientific interest, since they drift into more
northerly latitudes, and become a formidable danger in the
navigation of the Southern Seas. In the southern trade routes,
voyages would be shortened greatly by taking a high latitude,
but the danger of encountering these huge masses of ice has
recommended a longer but safer route, and of late, I under-
stand, the steamships of the New Zealand Company have
been accustomed to take a yet more northerly course for this
reason.

The bergs we now saw were comparatively small, and our

1902] ENTERING PACK-ICE 89

course did not take us close to any, but even at a distance it
was possible to realise the unpleasant shock that would be
experienced by suddenly encountering them on a dark night,
or in such a fog as that from which we had just emerged.
Before our voyage ended we had ample opportunity of appre-
ciating what unpleasant neighbours they may prove under such
conditions.

On January 3 we had left our first group of bergs behind
us ; early in the morning we crossed the Antarctic Circle, little
thinking how long a time would elapse before we recrossed it.
We had at length entered the Antarctic Regions; before us
lay the scene of our work ; the struggles and trials of pre-
paration and the anxiety of delays svere over, and the haste of
our long voyage was forgotten in the fact that we had reached
the field of our labours in time to take advantage of the best
part of the short open season in these ice-bound regions.
During the night we had encountered the first of the scattered
fragments of sea-ice which form the outriders of the pack, and
soon we were passing through loose streams of ice, feeling
again the slight shocks as our ironclad prow forced a way
through the honeycombed floes.

Having raised steam in one boiler, at 2.30 we stopped and
took a sounding, finding bottom at 2,040 fathoms. The pack
was now on all sides of us, but so loose that there were many
large pools of open water, in one of which we stopped for our
sounding and to put over our dredge. It is almost impossible to
sound or dredge in thick pack-ice, owing to the danger of en-
tanglement of the lines, and this was to us a very great drawback,
because in pursuing our general explorations it was constantly
necessary to enter the pack, and consequently the opportu-
nities for carrying out such interesting operations as sounding
and dredging were largely reduced.

The belt of pack-ice into which we had now entered was
that which was traversed for the first time by Sir James Ross
in 1840. We had therefore fully expected to meet it more or
less in the latitude in which we actually did so. In general
terms it is the ice which freezes over the Ross Sea in the

90 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

winter, and which is broken up by the spring gales and drifts
to the north, forming a band across the sea on this meridian.
Later in the year, still drifting northward, it becomes scat-
tered, leaving for a brief season an open sea route to the
south.

During our long stay in our winter quarters we were able
to observe to some extent the breaking-up and clearing of the
Ross Sea, which goes to form this line of pack, and I shall
refer to it in due course. In our passage through it we had
usually an overcast sky ; this affords the best condition for that
noticeable phenomenon the ' ice-blink,' the name given to the
white reflection thrown on the clouds by the snowy surface of
the pack. The polar voyager, when cruising in an open sea,
soon becomes familiar with the patchy white sky which indi-
cates the presence of ice long before it is visible from the
deck ; and in like manner when forcing his way through the
pack he looks eagerly for the dark sky shadows which surmount
the pools of open water, by entering which he may hope to
find his progress made easier.

And now for several days we were destined to force our
way through grinding floes, making for the open pools, and
taking advantage of every favourable lead when the ice
loosened. The pack is far from being a desert ; Ufe abounds
in many forms. As we receded from the open sea the alba-
trosses and various oceanic petrels silently vanished, but their
place was taken by other and equally interesting birds ; around
us flew the blue -grey southern fulmar and the Antarctic petrel,
with brown barred wings and head, and a white breast ; now
and again a giant petrel would come lumbering by, an un-
wholesome scavenger, ready to gorge himself to repletion on
such carrion as might catch his vulture eye. These birds are
met with far and wide ; they vary much in colour from black
to the lighter shades of brown, whilst there are a very large
proportion of pure albinos. Occasionally a pugnacious skua
gull would flap past, pausing to make some less formidable
bird disgorge his hard-earned dinner. But the pleasantest and
most constant of our winged visitors was the small snow petrel,

I902] LIFE IN THE PACK 91

with its dainty snow-white plumage, relieved only by black
beak and feet and black, beady eye. These charming little
birds are everywhere in the pack-ice, capturing for their food
the small crustaceans which the sea washes over the surface
and into the caves of the worn floes.

The squawk of the penguin was constantly heard, at first
afar and often long before the birds were seen ; curiosity drew
them to the ship, and suddenly their small figures appeared on
a floe at some distance, only to skurry across and leap into the
water on the near side, when with what seemed extraordinary
rapidity they bobbed up again, shooting out on to the surface
of some floe quite close to the ship. Here they paused and
gazed at us with open-eyed astonishment, occasionally uttering
a prolonged call, apparently to attract any of their fellows that
might be in the neighbourhood. As the ship forced her way
onward, these merry little companions would again and again
leap into the water, journeying from floe to floe in their effort
to find out what it all meant. Some of the sailors grew very
expert in imitating their call, and could not only attract them
from a long distance, but would visibly add to their astonish-
ment when they approached.

In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long
hours asleep stretched out on the floes. The commonest
kind is the crab-eater or white seal, but the shorter species, the
Ross seal, is not infrequently met with ; whilst here and there
is found the sea leopard, ranging wide and preying on the
penguins, or even on the young of its less formidable brethren.
It is curious to observe that both seals and penguins regard
themselves as safe when they are out of the water. In the sea
they gain their livelihood as best they can with the chance of
being snapped up by each other or by the voracious killer
whale, and in that element Nature has made them swift and
alert to prey or to avoid being preyed on. But once on the
ice or on land they have known no enemy, and can therefore
conceive none. The seal raises his head only on your near
approach, and then with but little alarm, whereas it is often
difficult to drive the penguin into the water ; even when chased

92 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' Qan.

it will still avoid the water under the impression that the sea
is really the sole source of danger.

To add to our collection, whenever seals were seen ahead,
the ship's course was altered towards them, and when sufficiently
close a bullet gave the quietus to our intended specimen ; the
best shots were requisitioned for this purpose in order that the
skin and skull should be damaged as little as possible, and to
avoid unnecessary pain. Once or twice the animals thus
killed had to be secured with a boat, but generally it was pos-
sible to carry a rope over the floe and take a hitch round the
body, when willing hands would soon hoist it over the side.

We had not proceeded far into the pack when our upper
deck became a busy but gory scene, for in one part men were
skinning our prizes in the shape of seals and penguins, whilst
elsewhere it was thought advisable to turn our sheep into
mutton, and soon we had an array of carcases which made an
excellent show, but which, alas ! did not represent a great
supply when the number of mouths on board was reckoned.
However, we determined to consider this mutton a luxury to
be kept for the winter, and to be eked out with the greatest
care. Fresh meat will generally keep for a long time when
hung in the rigging of a ship at sea, but here we had the
advantage of temperature, and our carcases soon became to
all intents and purposes frozen mutton.

The preservation of seal skins is not a light task : the skin
is taken off with the thick layer of coarse fat or blubber which
surrounds the body, and has then to be flensed or freed from
this blubber, when it is placed in a cask with brine.

Sunday, January 5, we determined to keep as a somewhat
belated Christmas day, and after the morning service and a
special dinner, we tied the ship up to the largest piece of fioe-
ice we could find, and although this only measured 100 yards
across, it proved sufficient for our purpose, which was to make
our first attempt to use the Norwegian snow shoes or ski.
With very few exceptions we had none of us used ski before,
and consequently our first trial caused vast amusement ; but
even in such a short time it was possible to see signs of im-

I902J LIFE IN THE PACK 93

provement, and before the afternoon ended races were organ-
ised and figures were darting about in all directions, with
constant collisions and falls and much laughter. In the
evening we pushed on once more, and whilst the ice crashed
against our bows and came grinding along the side, a sing-
song was held below with choruses that went far to drown the
outer tumult.

The position of officer of the watch in the pack was no
sinecure : he had to be constantly on the alert to avoid
contact with the heavier floes and to pick out the easiest path
for the ship. When the pack was open his best position was
in the ' crow's-nest,' where he could first see the open patches
of water and the heavier streams of ice, but in thicker pack he
could often handle the ship better by ' conning ' from the
bridge, and at such times he had to be constantly giving fresh
directions for the movement of the helm. Progress through
the pack depended very largely on the care with which the
ship was handled ; often, after forging slowly ahead for some
time, an incautious movement of the helm would bring us in
collision with some heavy piece of ice, and the ship would be
brought to a dead stop ; sometimes by pushing on, the
obstruction would be slowly forced aside, but oftener it was
necessary to reverse the engines and seek a new direction.

The floes of this pack-ice through which we were now
passing varied very greatly in character. Generally speaking,
they increased in area as we advanced to the south, and this
might well be expected, as we did not lose the ocean swell
until we were 100 miles south of the northern edge. There
were very few signs of pressure ; only here and there a more
ancient floe could be seen with ridged hummocks evidently
produced far from its present position, but everything seemed
to give the impression that the ice had been constantly open-
ing out and allowing fresh ice to form in the channels thus
left free. This would produce sheets of ice of varying ages,
and when the sheets broke into pack, rupture would naturally
take place along the joints and would produce in close asso-
ciation floes of varied thickness and character. The nature of

94 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' Qan.

sea-ice depends largely on the temperature at which it is pro-
duced, and, in turn, when the ice arrives in warmer water the
process of decay seems to depend on its nature. All the ice
we met with in the pack was undergoing decay, but whilst the
older snow-covered floes were more or less completely honey-
combed, the younger ice seemed to have become merely very
sodden and brittle. Progress was not rapid in the pack ; on
January 6 our latitude was 68.20 S., in long. 175 E., and we
had only made thirty-five miles in the last twenty-four hours.
The ice was now so close that we could make no headway
with the power of the single boiler, and we were obliged to
light up both.

Whilst waiting for our second boiler to be prepared, we
took the opportunity of replenishing our stock of water.
Although fitted with condensers, to have produced water for
the engines and general ship purposes with them would have
necessitated a large expenditure of coal. By far the most
economical plan was to obtain water by melting ice, and for
this purpose we had immediately inside the engine-room, two
long tanks fitted with steam coils, in which blocks of ice or
snow could very speedily be converted into water and supplied
to the engines, or wherever else it might be required. Our
fresh-water tanks had a considerable capacity, but every now
and again we were forced to stop and refill them, and after
selecting the most promising floe the ship would be secured to
it, and all hands set to work to dig out and pass on board the
blocks of snow.

' Watering ship ' was always a very busy scene, and since
the hours spent at it were so much loss to our exploring
season, it soon became the custom for the officers as well as
the men to share in the work. As the pack-ice is frozen sea-
water, it may be a surprise to many that fresh water can be
obtained from it, and it should be explained that for making
the fresh water one does not take the ice itself but the snow
which has fallen on its surface ; in many cases this is only a
thin layer, so that it is always advisable to secure a floe which
has been hummocked, as about the pressure ridges the snow

1902] 'WATERING SHIP' 95

will lie deeper than in other parts. At first we were rather
inclined to scorn floes that were not very irregular in surface,
but we soon found that what meant a great deal of snow to us
made a very small hole in their burden, and that we could
easily satisfy our requirements from comparatively insignificant
ice-floes. After the first few occasions, therefore, as soon as
we had decided on ' watering ship,' it took us very little time
to select our floe and to run the ship alongside it, when ready
men would leap out with the ice-anchors, and after planting
them securely would attach our ropes ; directly the ship was
secured the digging party would swarm over the side with picks
and shovels and boxes, a few would dig away with the picks
whilst others bore the filled boxes or large blocks across the
floe, and others again stood ready to transport these over the
side and on to the deck ; the heap that was thus made was
reduced as fast as the tanks could be fed, but generally the
work was so vigorously carried on that the supply exceeded the
immediate demand and a large deck-heap had to be gauged to
determine the moment at which it would be wise to say, ' Hold,
enough ! ' These words spoken, all would troop on board,
the ice-anchors would be uprooted, the engines revolved, and
we would push on through the pack once more ; in this
systematic manner we could provide ourselves with many tons
of water with a halt of one or two hours.

We made better progress again with both boilers, and as
we ground through and overturned broken fragments, it was
astonishing to see the extent to which the under-ice was honey-
combed. Many of the overturned blocks showed under-strata
of a reddish yellow colour due to the presence of diatoms ; it
was surprising to find that these microscopic plants could be
caught in the freezing water in such vast quantities, although
our surface tow-nets at this time were producing large hauls.

Tow-netting had been a very great source of interest to
many of us throughout our voyage from England ; our original
tow-nets were designed for use only when the ship was drifting ;
constructed of very fine meshed silk, they were intended to
capture the microscopic plants which inhabit the surface waters

96 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' Qan.

of the sea. By increasing the length of the net and largely
reducing its aperture, we found that we could use it whilst the
' Discovery ' was travelling through the water at her ordinary
speed, and thus daily explore this most interesting form of life.
Although Dr. Koettlitz performed all the serious work in this
department, many of us, in a more amateurish fashion, were
interested in examining the strangely beautiful forms revealed
by the microscope in these catches. It was strange to have
sailed the sea for many years in entire ignorance that such
things were. Our attempts to manufacture a speed-net to cap-
ture the small crustaceans and other surface beasts were not so
successful. Mr. Hodgson, our biologist, in whose department
these were, reported that the delicate organisms were hope-
lessly destroyed, and came up 'all heads and tails.' The
phyto-plankton, or plant life of the surface-waters, changed
greatly on our advance to the south, and many beautiful forms
of the tropic and sub-tropic seas gave place to vast quantities of
diatoms. Since this life possesses no power of locomotion,
under certain conditions it must form a guide to the surface
currents of the ocean, and when further exploration has been
made, as startling facts will be obtained from such data in the
South as have already been established in the North.

On January 6 the swell ceased and floes increased to four
or five acres in extent, and late at night they were almost a
mile in length, but very rotten ; a touch from our iron prow
caused long cracks to fly out in all directions, into one of
which the ship would glide and gradually gather way for the
next obstruction. By the 7th we were in lat. 68.32 S., having
only made thirty-two miles in the past twenty-four hours, but
in the evening a considerable amount of ' open-water sky '
appeared ahead, and soon after the ice slackened greatly, and
we passed through a number of large water-holes. A fine
following breeze in the evening enabled us to shut off steam in
all but the thickest places.

Since our capture of seals we had been regularly feeding on
seal-meat, and on the whole, even at this time, we found it
palatable : there are naturally prejudices to be overcome in

1902] SOUTHERN EDGE OF PACK 97

taking to a new meat, and the seal being a very full-blooded
animal, his flesh does not look pleasing before it is cooked, and
afterwards it has a very dark mahogany colour, which is not
attractive. It is almost impossible to describe the taste of a
seal ; it has a distinctive flavour in a similar degree to beef and
mutton, but it cannot be called ' fishy,' or like anything else
that is generally known. It is a very strong meat, and in food
value quite equal to the best beef. But the great drawback to
the seal is that there is no fat other than blubber, and blubber
has a very strong rancid taste and a most penetrating smell.
At this time blubber was to us an abomination both in taste
and smell, and the smallest scrap that had inadvertently been
cooked with the meat was sufficient to put us off" our dinner.
Later on we grew indifferent to this smell, and to some extent
to the taste, but except under the stress of great hunger we
have no record of blubber being enjoyed. Later on, moreover,
we came thoroughly to enjoy our seal steaks and to revel in the
thought of seal liver or kidneys ; whereas I find my diary
records very doubtful expressions of pleasure with regard to all
these things at this time.

Early on the morning of the 8th, behind the ice-blink to
the south, could be seen a strong water sky, and soon the
officer of the watch hailed from aloft the glad tidings of an
open sea to the south, the ice-floes became smaller, and we
soon entered a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small
pieces, closely packed and grinding together on the slight
southerly swell. This extended for about i| mile, and pushing
through it with steam and sail, we at length reached the hard
line where the ice abruptly ended, and from whence to the
south could be seen nothing but a clear sea.

Such a well-defined limit to the pack clearly indicates the
prevalence of southerly winds at this season ; it is obvious that
the wind will get better hold on the floes in loose streams of
ice than on those in the main pack, and hurry them along until
they join the slower-moving main body.

Our pleasure in once more reaching open water may be
imagined. During the past four days we had made little more
VOL. I. H

98 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

than 200 miles, expending the precious coal which would have
taken us three times that distance in an open sea. Although
we could congratulate ourselves on getting through, it was
evident that we had encountered a heavier obstruction than
had Sir James Ross in first entering this sea in 1840, when,
even in his slow sailing ships, he had been able to penetrate
this pack in four days.

As we entered the open sea the thick pall of leaden clouds,
which had remained persistently over us in the pack, rolled
away, and the sun shone forth in a clear sky. Furling our
sails, we obtained in lat. 70.3 a sounding of 1,480 fathoms,
indicating that we were on the verge of the Antarctic land
plateau. We celebrated our successful penetration of the pack
by splicing the mainbrace, and at our modest dinner in the
wardroom we drank to the future in champagne, so that the
shout of ' Land in sight ' at 10.30 p.m. only added to an
already joyful frame of mind. All who were not on deck
quickly gathered there, to take their first look at the Antarctic
Continent ; the sun, now near the southern horizon, still shone
in a cloudless sky, giving us full daylight. Far away to the
south-west could be seen the blue outline of the high mountain
peaks of Victoria Land, and we were astonished to find that
even at this great distance of more than 100 geographical
miles we could clearly distinguish the peaks of the Admiralty
Range.

The course was directed for Robertson Bay, but when
within forty or fifty miles we again fell in with loose streams of
pack-ice, and once more repaired to the crow's nest to * con '
the ship through. At 4 p.m. on the 9th, after much turning
and twisting to avoid the heaviest masses of ice, we arrived off
the entrance of Robertson Bay, and forcing our way through a
heavy band of pack-ice at the entrance, eventually reached the
open water within the bay. Robertson Bay is formed by the
long peninsula of Cape Adare, within which, standing but
slightly above tlie level of the sea, is a curious triangular spit,
probably the morainic remains of the vaster ice conditions of
former ages.

I902] CAPE ADARE 99

It was on this spit that the expedition sent forth by Sir
George Newnes, and commanded by Mr. Borchgrevink, spent
their winter in 1896, the first party to winter on the shores of
the Antarctic Continent. We came to anchor under its shelter
in 15^ fathoms, and soon had our boats ready to carry us to
the shore.

We landed as best we could over the grounded floe-ice
which fringed the shore, and beyond which lay the level
plateau or beach of pebbled basalt, extending for about three-
quarters of a mile to the foot of the cliffs, which rose abruptly
with dark frowning aspect to a height of over 1,000 feet; a
few ponds of melted snow occupied the slight depressions in
the plateau, which elsewhere formed the nesting-place of count-
less thousands of Adelie penguins, and these small creatures
were not content with the beach, but had formed their nests
on the steep hillsides, even to a height of 1,000 feet.

Members of the extended colonies were constantly moving
up and down on the regular beaten tracks, which lead from
the sea to their elevated nests ; they walked erect, and evidently
found it a most difficult and laborious task to climb the steeper
places. There can be little doubt that the occupants of the
highest nests must take considerably over an hour to make this
journey, and when it is considered that this is all waste time
out of their day's fishing, it is difficult to understand why they
should choose these very elevated positions. But we found
later on that there were far more of these penguin rookeries
than we supposed, and a little thought showed that a rookery
has certain requirements that are not often found in the
Antarctic Regions. It must have comparatively easy access to
the sea at a spot where the fast ice breaks early in the season,
and where the floating ice is not likely to pack. As long
stretches of the coastline are fringed by an ice-cliff, such places
are not too frequently met with, and I am inclined to think
that in most cases, if not in all, they are tenanted by colonies
of this pushing, energetic little penguin ; and it may be, there-
fore, that it is want of room alone that causes them to nest in
such apparently inconvenient places.

loo THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

In every respect these small birds afford a fund of interest.
Their winter is spent in the pack-ice to the north, but with
regular migratory habits they suddenly appear at their rookeries
in September or October, and crowding in every available
spot, they scrape a few pebbles together into the rudest form
of nest and lay their eggs. In due course the little brown-
coated chicks are hatched out and begin and continue their
life in an almost ceaseless clamour for food, which the parent
birds provide with indefatigable patience and zeal. Things
continue thus until the chicks have grown to full stature and
have shed their brown coats of down for their maturer white-
breasted plumage, when they are led to the water by the older
birds, and, in spite of much protest, rudely pushed in. Hence-
forth, it is to be supposed, they must fend for themselves, and
the rookery once more becomes a desert.

On our arrival at Cape Adare the young birds were already
well grown, and despite the very pungent and decided odour
of penguin which assailed our nostrils, we continued to watch
the antics of these queer inhabitants with absorbing interest.

Round and about the clusters of penguins, with their busy
comings and goings and their ceaseless chatter, were gathered
a number of the light-brown skua gulls. One could have
imagined them to be dwelling on the greatest terms of
friendship with the penguins until one saw some unfortunate
penguin chick wander from its immediate company, when with
a swift swoop a watchful skua would descend on it and in an
instant its life was ended, and its yet quivering little form was
being torn by its rapacious enemy, whose own nest and chicks
might lie but a few yards away.

In the centre of the Cape Adare beach still stands the hut
used by the members of the Southern Cross Expedition, and
scattered about it we found a considerable quantity of pro-
visions. The hut is in very good condition, and in such a
climate might well remain so for many years to come. Should
some future explorers traverse this region, it is well to know
that here they possess a retreat in case of emergency, as,
although they may not find all the provisions in good condi-

1902] CAPE ADARE loi

tion, a fair proportion is likely to be found so, and at this spot
there would always be abundance of food in the shape of seals
or penguins.

There is always something sad in contemplating the de-
serted dwellings of mankind, under whatever conditions the
inhabitants may have left. We could only wander about and
imagine the daily life of the party until our physicist, Mr.
Bernacchi, joined us. This officer had been one of this small
party of eight souls, and here on the spot he recalled the past
and told us of the unhappy death of one of his comrades, the
naturalist Hanson, now lying buried on the hill-top i,ooo feet
above our heads. The dying man had requested that he
should rest there, and slowly and laboriously his body was
borne up the steep hillside to the chosen spot. So there rest
the remains of the only human being who has found burial on
this great Southern Continent, and above his body still stands,
in touching memorial, a plain wooden cross.

Our energetic magnetic observers, Armitage, Bernacchi, and
Barne, were soon at work with their instruments amongst the
penguins, whilst the naturalists wandered farther afield in search
of specimens. The search was not without result, as, besides
specimens of rock and moss, several species of birds were
collected. Amongst the high rocks the small Wilson petrel
was found nesting, and two eggs were obtained. On the beach
were collected some white giant petrels as well as the commoner
brown ones. On entering the bay we had disturbed one of
these greedy birds taking a siesta on a floe, and so gorged with
food that it could barely fly.

The scene in the bay after we had returned for our late
evening meal was very beautiful; the surface was calm and
placid, beyond it the sunlight fell on the bold peaks and
splendid glaciers of the Admiralty Range, the sharp summits of
Mounts Minto and Adam were well defined against a clear
sky, whilst the lofty peak of Sabine was lost in a mystery of
fleecy cloud. The placid, deep shadowed sea was dotted with
streams of brilliantly white pack-ice, whilst here and there a
table-topped iceberg showed the sharpest contrast of light and

I02 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

shadow as the sun fell on its smooth, steep sides. The tide
was making out of the bay with considerable strength, and
now and again it bore past us a floe alive with busy, chattering
penguins.

Somewhat later Bernacchi and some others landed again to
visit once more the grave of poor Hanson, and to see that all
was well with it. They took with them a tin cylinder contain-
ing the latest information with regard to our voyage, with
directions to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut.
The following year this cylinder was found by the ' Morning,'
and gave the first information that the ' Discovery ' had suc-
ceeded in reaching these southern regions.

At 3 A.M. on January lo, when it was still gloriously calm
and bright, we weighed our anchor and again stood out to sea,
steering close around the high land of Cape Adare in hopes
of finding a clear channel close to the land. At first it
appeared as though we should do so, but soon the tidal stream
began to make from the south, and the whole aspect of the
streams of heavy pack-ice rapidly changed ; before we could
decide to turn, the pack was all about us, and we were being
rapidly borne along with it. Across the entrance to the bay
there was a chain of grounded icebergs, and it was towards
these that we were now being carried ; we could see and
almost hear the heavy floes grinding and overriding one
another against these barriers. For the first time we faced the
dangers of the pack, and became aware of its mighty powers.
For we could do little or nothing, the floes around us were
heavier than anything we had yet met ; twist and turn as we
would, we could make no appreciable advance, and in front of
one monster floe we were brought to a standstill for nearly half
an hour. Still we battled on ; Armitage remained aloft work-
ing the ship with admirable patience, the engine-room, as
usual, responded nobly to the call for more steam, and soon
the * Discovery ' was exerting all her powers in the fray, but
the progress was still so slow that it looked almost inevitable
that we should be carried down amongst the bergs. It was
one of those hours which impress themselves for ever on the

1902] DANGER IN THE PACK 103

memory. Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky, its rays
were reflected from a myriad points of the glistening pack ;
behind us lay the lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown sun-
kissed cliffs of the cape and the placid glassy waters of the
bay ; the air about us was almost breathlessly still ; crisp,
clear and sun-lit, it seemed an atmosphere in which all Nature
should rejoice ; the silence was broken only by the deep pant-
ing of our engines and the slow, measured hush of the grind-
ing floes ; yet, beneath all ran this mighty, relentless tide,
bearing us on to possible destruction. It seemed desperately
unreal that danger could exist in the midst of so fair a scene,
and as one paced to and fro on the few feet of throbbing
plank that constituted our bridge, it was difficult to persuade
oneself that we were so completely impotent. It is curious
here to note that, except myself, only those who were actually
on watch were on deck. The hour was early, and the majority
were resting after their labours of the previous night, and so,
asleep in their bunks below, they were happily unconscious of
the uncomfortable possibilities before them ; and that they
were not told bears testimony to the fact that a fuss was rarely
made in the ' Discovery ' unless there was some good reason.
Our release from this danger was so gradual that it would have
been difficult to say when it happened ; perhaps on these
occasions one is always a little slow to realise that things are
getting better. It came from the gradual weakening of the
tide, and most unexpectedly, because we had not looked for
change in this for some hours to come. But gradually the
tidal stream slackened, the close-locked floes fell slightly apart,
and under her full head of steam the ' Discovery ' began to
forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. By 8.20 we had
won through, and could breathe a sigh of relief. For me the
lesson had been a sharp and, I have no doubt, a salutary one ;
we were here to fight the elements with their icy weapons, and
once and for all this taught me not to undervalue the enemy.

During the forenoon we were able to stand within seven
or eight miles of the high bold coastline to the south of Cape
Adare, but later we were obliged to turn outwards to avoid the

I04 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' Qan.

heavy streams of pack-ice drifting along the land, and this
took us well outside the group of rocky islets on which
Ross landed, and which he named the Possession Islands.
Our navigator took advantage of fine weather to swing the
ship ; this means that the ship was gradually turned round,
and as her head pointed in certain directions, observations of
the sun were taken from which the error of the compass could
be computed. I have already explained how highly important
the finding of the compass errors at various places was, but it
should be added that since the error in any spot might differ
according to the direction of the ship's head, it was also
necessary that an allowance should be made for the particular
direction of the ship's head when an observation was made.
It was to obtain this allowance that the ' Discovery ' was swung,
and therein we held an immense advantage over Sir James
Ross, who had been unable to manoeuvre his sailing-ships in
this manner ; but although we realised the advantage of swing-
ing, it involved not a few trials and tribulations : sometimes
when we had stopped for this work, clouds would come flying
across the face of the sun, and we had to wait patiently until
they had passed ; at others, the wind would spring up and
make the ship so difficult to handle that it was some time
before we could get her steadied on the various courses ; and
as these delays tended to fritter away the valuable hours of
our open season, it can be imagined that we did not regard
them with complacency.

Owing to our being continually forced to edge out to
seaward to avoid streams of pack, by the morning of the nth
we were well clear of the land, which, however, could be very
distinctly seen in the distance, and gave us much to think and
talk about as we recognised the various peaks and headlands
which Sir James Ross had named.

We still stood to the south, but our progress was slow
owing to a brisk S.E. wind, and to the fact that we were only
using one boiler. As I have pointed out, of all economies
practised on board, the most important was that of coal, and
every device by which a saving could be effected in this respect

1902] ECONOMISING FUEL 105

was worthy of consideration. It is still doubtful, however
whether my decision to use one boiler commonly, instead of
two, really effected the saving I intended. At this time the
' Discovery,' with both boilers alight, would burn from five to
six tons of coal a day, and for this she could maintain a speed
of six or seven knots in calm water ; with one boiler, she
would burn from three and a half to four tons, productive of a
speed of four to five knots in calm water. So far the problem,
though not very exact, is capable of solution ; but the trouble
is that a calm sea is a rarity, and the ' Discovery ' was so
dependent on wind and sea that when these conditions were
included, the question was complicated out of all recognition.
The problem as to whether the ground could more economi-
cally be got over with one boiler or two was therefore one
that could only be decided by experience. At this time we
had no experience to guide us ; for good or ill I decided on
using the single boiler, and with rare exceptions this became
our custom throughout the summer cruise.

On such occasions as the present, however, it meant that
our progress against an adverse wind was exceedingly slow.
On the nth we only made fifty- five miles, and on the 12th
only thirty-two miles, on our southerly course. The wind
gradually increased, and the weather became very unsettled.
On the afternoon of the nth we had a succession of snow-
storms, and the land was blotted out in thick haze. During
the misty evening we were surrounded by large flocks of
Antarctic petrel, which stayed with us for a time, and vanished
as suddenly as they had come. Almost immediately after we
were surrounded with flocks of snow petrel, quaint little
ghostly forms flitting about in the mist, and dropping now and
again to the edge of a floe to capture the small euphansia on
which they feed.

During the 12th we scarcely made any headway at all.
The wind increased from the S.W., and occasionally bore down
on us in heavy snow squalls. The low black rock and bold
capes of the coastline stood out distinctly ; but heavy, ominous
clouds obscured the mountains. We could now distinguish

io6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' Qan.

Coulman Island on our bow, and by the morning we had
brought it almost abeam ; but by this time the weather bore a
still more threatening aspect. A heavy swell came up from
the south and the glass was falling. There could be little
doubt that a gale was brewing, and in order that it should not
carry us far to the north I thought it wise to try to seek shelter
under Coulman Island. We turned in and were soon amongst
the loose pack-ice and in smoother water, but the wind was
momentarily increasing, and we were obliged to light up our
second boiler in order to gain the open-water shelter which we
could now see under the high cliffs of the island.

Coulman Island, like all the coastal land, is a mass of
volcanic rock, rising about 2,000 feet above the sea. It is
comparatively flat on the top, which is covered with an ice-cap
of considerable thickness, and it is surrounded by steep and
in some places almost vertical cliffs. Beneath the heaviest
falls of neve from the ice-cap, and clinging to the steep cliffs,
are fan-shaped masses of ice with vertical faces, rising as much
as 100 feet above the sea. These have all the appearance of
glacier tongues, though they can scarcely be called by that
name, and they form an intermittent ice-foot fringing the
coast. The land as we approached it looked illusively near ;
the sky was overcast, and the higher land was hidden in cloud,
but beneath this sheet of grey the black rocks stood out with
such distinctness that one was wholly deceived as to their
distance. So strong was this deception that the engines were
eased when we were nearly two miles from the cliffs, under the
impression that they were only a few hundred yards away ; we
only discovered our mistake when we saw a colony of pen-
guins, and found that even with glasses it was impossible to
distinguish the individuals. I find also I noted in my diary
that there was on our right ' a curious indentation like the
crater of a volcano,' and this was really the strait between the
island and the mainland, some ten miles across.

Afterwards in our winter quarters, and during our sledge
journeys, we got to know very well how easily one could be
deluded in respect to distance, and what extraordinarily false

I902] HEAVY GALE 107

appearances distant objects would assume. The matter is of
more than passing interest, because it shows that one must be
exceedingly cautious in beheving even what appears to be the
evidence of one's own eyes, and it largely helps to explain some
errors which we found had been made by former explorers,
and which we knew must have been made in all good faith.

During the night of the 13th we lay under the shelter of
the high cliffs on the N.E. side of Coulman Island, over
which had now gathered a heavy storm cloud ; the wind had
risen to a full gale at sea, but only reached us in occasional
squalls which swept down from the high cliffs. To occupy
our time, a trawl-net was put over in about 100 fathoms of
water, and great was the delight of Mr. Hodgson when it was
found to be well filled with specimens. At such times our
biologist was in his element ; on one side of him would be
arrayed a number of glass jars, before him would lie in one
mass the mud, stones, and animals which the net had pro-
duced. And thus, surrounded by a circle of eager, curious
faces he would work with fingers and forceps, sorting fish,
sponges, crustaceans, and polyzoa into their proper receptacles.
It was as much as anyone's life was worth to approach without
invitation, but questions were allowed and would be answered,
generally with a string of lengthy scientific terms which left
the questioner about where he was before.

By the morning of the 14th the wind had increased to a
furious gale, and the squalls now swept down over the cliffs
with such terrific violence that we were forced to exert all our
one-boiler power to keep the ship in her station, and even thus
we began to lose ground. The ship would not face the wind
directly, and we were obliged to carry it on the bow with the
yards braced sharp up ; in this position she would gradually
edge away sideways until it became necessary to bring the
wind on the other bow and edge back again. We had so little
control over her that we could not alter our course by ' tacking,'
but were obliged to set a head sail and so ' wear ' round with
our stern to the wind. In the afternoon the wind force, as
measured by the Robertson anemometer, was ninety miles an

io8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

hour, and as we continued to lose ground we got into a more
choppy sea, which sent the spray over us in showers to freeze
as it fell. As evening approached we drove down on a line of
pack and amongst several small bergs, raising clouds of spray
in the driving gale. Our situation was not pleasant ; to avoid
one berg we were forced to go about, and in doing so we ran
foul of another. As we came down on it our bowsprit just
swept clear of its pinnacled sides, and we took the shock broad
on our bows ; it sent us reeling round, but luckily on the
right tack to avoid further complications, and we rebounded
clear of our dangerous neighbour. The night which followed
was dismal enough ; again and again small bergs appeared
through the blinding spray and drift, and it was only with
great difficulty that our unmanageable ship could be brought
to clear them. Meanwhile, in spite of our continuous steaming
we were being driven farther and farther to leeward. But
even gales must have an end, and towards morning there was
a visible moderation in the wind, when we were able to creep
up towards the island once more. In the afternoon an arch
of clear sky appeared in the south and the wind fell rapidly.
We were able to steam up close to the island once more ; and
there, between two high tongues of ice off Cape Wadworth, we
landed on the steep rocks and erected a staff bearing a tin
cylinder with a further record of our voyage.

By the time this was accomplished the wind had fallen
completely, and the sun shone forth with great brilliancy.
We entered the strait between the island and the mainland
and found it to be considerably narrower than was expected,
so that we soon approached the high land of Cape Jones on
the other side. At this time, although there was a quantity of
pack in the southern Hmits of the strait, from our crow's-nest it
looked as if it would not be difficult to find clear leads to the
open sea beyond, and thus to pass completely through the
strait, but when we attempted this some hours later we found
the pack closely locked in the entrance.

To the southward of Cape Jones the land recedes abruptly
and sweeps round, forming a long bay, behind which we now

THE PENGUINS' ROAD.

[See p. 100.

i^

CAPE WADWORTH, COULMAN ISLAND.

1902] LADY NEWNES BAY 109

saw rising in a clear sky the magnificent sharp peaks of Mounts
Monteagle and Herschel, and the high snow covered ranges
between. From the summits many vast glaciers sweep down
with majestic curves to the sea, and on these we looked with a
keen eye, calculating the chances of reaching the interior over
surfaces which looked so smooth at this distance. But the
most remarkable physical feature of this neighbourhood is the
fact that the whole of this bay, called by Mr. Borchgrevink
' Lady Newnes Bay,' is filled with a vast mass of what we
subsequently came to call ' barrier ' ice, a sheet of such thick-
ness that its towering ice-cliffs stand in many places 150 feet
above the water. On the origin and nature of these extra-
ordinary ice-formations I shall have more to say in a future
chapter. At this time, although few of us had much knowledge
of ice-conditions in other parts of the world, we felt that we were
gazing on a phenomenon unlike anything reported elsewhere.

On our passage across the strait we had a very remarkable
instance of the influence of volcanic rock on the compass.
Two successive bearings taken of a distant cape showed us
that the card had swung 8°. At this time we were more than
a mile from the cliffs of the island, and on sounding found
forty fathoms of water beneath us. The directive force of the
compass was of course extremely small, but such a large
deflection is astonishing.

In the evening we entered a long inlet between Cape
Jones and the barrier-ice, and later turned out of this into
a smaller inlet in the barrier-ice itself. After pushing through
heavy detached floes we secured to some sea-ice which,
although cracked in all directions, had not yet broken away.
We were now in a remarkably well-sheltered spot; on each
side we had high ice-cliffs, whilst across the mouth of the inlet
lay the high land of Cape Jones. On the sea-ice of the inlet,
which ran for some distance ahead of the ship, more than a
hundred seals lay basking in the sun, and elsewhere a small
colony of Emperor penguins in process of moulting exhibited the
most dishevelled appearance, and evidently hated to be seen with
their usually smooth glossy plumage in such an untidy state.

no THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

As so often in the Antarctic Regions, we resolved to turn
night into day, and, although it was lo p.m., to start about our
work at once. Our work was not a pleasant task, but one we
regarded as very necessary — namely, that of adding to our
larder sundry joints of seal. We felt fairly confident of finding
a wintering spot before the season closed, but we had no
guarantee that we should find seals in its vicinity, and it
seemed the wisest plan to get them whilst we could.

The seal possesses the most astonishing vitality, and
though nothing can be easier than to catch and wound these
poor creatures, it is difficult to kill them outright, and until
our men had had practice and knew exactly where to strike,
many a futile knife-thrust was given.

It seemed a terrible desecration to come to this quiet spot
only to murder its innocent inhabitants and stain the white
snow with blood ; but necessities are often hideous, and man
must live. Some of us were glad enough to get away on our
ski and to climb the steep snow slopes at the end of our creek.
We found that the surface of this ' barrier ' mass undulated in
long waves, some of which we crossed ; but knowing we had
no prospect of reaching the land, we soon turned and employed
ourselves in sliding down the steep slopes of the inlet on our
ski, an amusement which cost us many falls.

Leaving the men to get in the seal carcases and some ice
for our boilers, I turned in at two to get a few hours' rest
before we again put to sea. On returning to the deck at 7.30
I was told that all work was completed, but that some five
hours before a party consisting of Dr. Wilson, Mr. Ferrar,
Cross and Weller had got adrift on a floe, and that no one had
thought of picking them up. Although the sun had been
shining brightly all night, the temperature had been down to
18°, and afar off I could see four disconsolate figures tramping
about to keep themselves warm on a detached floe not more
than fifteen yards across. When at length our wanderers
scrambled over the side, it was very evident they had a big
grievance, and it was only after some hot cocoa that they could
talk of their experiences with ease. They had been obliged to

I902] WOOD BAY III

keep constantly on the move, and when they thought of
smoking to relieve the monotony of the situation, the smokers
found they had pipes and tobacco, but no match. It was
whilst they were dismally discussing this fact that Dr. Wilson,
a non-smoker, came nobly to the rescue and succeeded in
producing fire with a small pocket magnifying glass— a fact
which shows not only the resource of the officer, but the power
of the midnight sun in these latitudes.

As we turned the corner of the barrier-ice cliff I saw to my
disgust that the channels of open water which I had observed
to the south on the previous evening had now closed up, and
only thick pack lay in that direction. There was nothing for it
but to pass again round the north side of Coulman Island,
which, owing to many buffetings with loose pack, it took us the
whole day to circumnavigate.

On the 17th we had to stand out farther and farther from
the land to clear the pack ; on our return voyage we also found
much pack in this vicinity, and it is evident that Coulman
Island forms a sort of cul-de-sac^ delaying the ice as it passes
up the coast.

It was not easy under our varying conditions to arrive at
the currents along this coast. We found that there was
evidently a tidal stream setting alternately north and south.
Whilst we were delayed under Coulman Island we had been
influenced by this fact, and had on occasions seen small bergs
travelling against the wind ; a change of direction in the stream
had appeared to us to occur only once in twelve hours, and
this was supported by subsequent tidal observations.

It is probable that the north running stream is stronger
than the south, as undoubtedly the bergs as well as the pack-
ice move gradually to the north. The pack-ice is of course
mostly influenced by the wind, which at this season of the year
appears to blow pretty constantly from a southerly direction.

At 2.30 A.M. on the i8th we arrived in the entrance to
Wood Bay, only to find it heavily packed. I had hoped to be
able to land here and leave a record, but to have attempted to
force through this heavy ice would have involved an unjusti-

112 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

fiable expenditure of coal. The ice we faced was evidendy
that which had been formed in the bay ; it was from six to
seven feet thick, and far more soHd than anything we had yet
encountered. Very Httle snow had fallen on the surface of
the floes, and except where some volcanic sand and rubble
had been carried on to them by the wind, there was no sign of
decay. To run into floes of this description was a very
different matter to charging the comparatively rotten ice which
we had met in the pack.

Away to the N. and N.W. of us we could now see the
sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison, amongst bewilder-
ing clusters of lesser summits ; across the bay rose the
magnificent bare cliff" of Cape Sibbald, rising 2,000 feet above
the sea ; to the west one could trace the breaks in hill-outline
suggestive of the windings of the arms of the bay and the
glacier valleys beyond, but the eye lingered most pleasantly on
the uniform outline of Mount Melbourne to the S.W. This
fine mountain rears an almost perfect volcanic cone to a
height of 9,000 feet, and, standing alone with no competing
height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the most
magnificent landmark on the coast. Cape Washington,
a bold, sharp headland, projects from the foot of the moun-
tain on its eastern side, and finding such heavy pack in
Wood Bay, we now turned to the south to pass around this
cape.

From this point our voyage promised to be increasingly
interesting, since the coast to the south of Cape Washington
was practically unknown. Ross seems to have satisfied himself
that there was a continuance of land to Mount Erebus, but he
saw it only at a very great distance— a fact which is attested by
the absence of names from individual mountains and capes.
He probably did not see more than the dim outline of hills far
beyond his horizon, and the only particular name he supplies —
that of Cape Gauss — was probably given to some darker patch
of bare mountain-side, as at this spot there is no such con-
spicuous cape as he imagined. I have already pointed out
how easily one may be deceived in such a matter, and it can

I902] CAPE WASHINGTON 113

be imagined that we looked forward eagerly to exploring this
unknown land.

As we passed within half a mile of the sheer headland of
Washington we were surprised to get shallow soundings. Our
lead gave us eighteen fathoms, then fifteen, then eight, and in
this shallow water our compass was again largely disturbed.

It should be understood that we were now south of the
magnetic pole, and as the south-seeking end of the compass
needle continued to point towards that spot, our ship's head,
although directed to the true south, appeared by the compass
to be travelling in a northerly direction. To find out the
actual amount of this error in different places was, of course,
one of our most important missions, but throughout our
voyages in these seas, where the error was so great and so
constantly changing, the compass proved a most confusing
instrument, and in thick weather much calculation was
necessary to determine the true direction in which any new
course would take one.

On rounding Cape Washington we were delighted to find
that the coast was comparatively free of pack. We could now
see that the western slopes of Melbourne merged into a range
of comparatively low hills, which continued to the south till
they rose to the steep sides of a long, high table mountain
beyond which a snow-covered ridge carried the outline to
farther mountains of a less perfect but distinctly tabular form.
We were destined to find this tabular form of mountain to be
a feature of Victoria Land for many hundreds of miles to the
south, and largely a key to the geological formation of the
whole country ; but at this time the majority of us failed to
appreciate the importance of this new development, though we
were aware of the novelty of outline.

The coastline from Cape Washington sweeps back in a
deep bay, and then runs directly to the south, in places fringed
by a steep ice-foot, while in others bare, rocky slopes descend
to the water's edge. Curiously enough, there was but little
snow on the higher mountains, but the foot-hills in front were
almost covered with a thick glacial crust.

VOL. I. I

114 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

As we got to the southward of our table mountain we could
see that the high snow ridge beyond it represented an immense
overflow of the ice-mass of the interior. Some vast store of
ice beyond seemed to take advantage of the break in the
mountain chain, and to pour down in one great river of ice to
the sea.

The glistening white surface of this great overflow, fully
fifteen miles across, rose gradually to a height of some
4,000 feet at the crest of the ridge, and no doubt continued
to rise to greater height beyond. It was broken only in the
centre, where a huge beehive-shaped nunatak thrust its head
through the mass and left deep furrows in its snowy surface.
The rich brown of the bare basaltic rock of this nunatak is
conspicuously contrasted with the vast surface of white snow
about it, and therefore constitutes one of the most striking land-
marks on the coast, a most remarkable and distinctive feature.

And now as we skirted the ice-foot on our right we
found ourselves suddenly brought up in a curious inlet, with
ice-walls on every side, and were obliged to turn and retrace
our steps for some way, when, still keeping the ice-wall on our
right, we found ourselves going due east directly away from
the land. For many hours we steamed along this ice-cliff,
which varied in height from 70 to 100 feet, until, after travel-
ling more than twenty miles, we came where the cliff rose to
150 feet in height and turned abruptly to the south, and after
a mile or more again abruptly to the west. We now per-
ceived that we had encountered another example of the barrier-
ice which we had seen in Lady Newnes Bay, but this time the
ice ran out in a long snout to seaward, and we could fit no
theory to the fact that the extremity of the snout was higher
than many parts behind it. Off the end of the snout we
obtained 368 fathoms of water — another rather puzzling circum-
stance, when the flotation of ice was considered.

On turning the corner to the south we were again brought
in full view of our ancient enemy the pack-ice. Here, as
further north, it is evidently detained in its passage along the
coast. The extent of the pack carried us some way to the

e^

SOUTH COAST OF CA1>K UASUINGTON.

[See 1). 116.

GKANITE HAKDOLH.

1902] COASTING SOUTH 115

south before we could find a ' lead ' towards the land. It was
a gloriously bright Sunday morning — so clear that at midday
we sighted Mount Erebus at a distance of 120 miles, and in
the afternoon could even see the vapour rising from the
summit of that lofty volcano. The day was so perfectly clear
that at one time we could see Melbourne, Monteagle, and even
Coulman Island to the north, and Erebus to the south; that is
an included range of vision of 240 geographical miles.

It is here that I find a note in my diary to the effect that
the ice-cap of the interior appeared to rise beyond the coastal
mountains, and that patches of rock could be seen farther
inland, but that it was impossible, owing to the mirage, to
define the height or distance of such patches. This note is of
great importance in connection with our subsequent exploration
of the interior ice. At 6 p.m. we were able to turn towards
the land, and later in the night made out a very conspicuous
bluff cliff in marked contrast to the white snow slopes behind.

We were now in a latitude where it was most desirable that
we should make a diligent search for safe winter quarters for
the ship. Wood Bay had been thought by many in England
to be the most southerly spot in which we were likely to find
security, but we had seen enough of the coastline to the south
of that place to realise the impossibility of travelling along it in
sledges, and to assure us that if we wished to make any advance
to the south we must find a harbour in some higher latitude.
The sight of this bluff cUff seemed to give promise of finding
an inlet in its neighbourhood, and I decided to make an effort
to explore the coast. But to approach the land was not such
easy work, as we had constantly to force our way through
streams of pack-ice, and the floes were more solid than any we
had yet met. If one charged them with any speed the shock
of meeting was tremendous; the ship would stop dead with
masts and yards quivering, anyone below might have imagined
an earthquake, and to be in the swaying, trembling crow's-nest
on such an occasion was anything but a pleasant sensation.
The only comfortable way was to push quietly through, and so
it was not until 4 p.m. on the 20th that we could convince our-

ii6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

selves that we had been right in expecting an inlet behind the
conspicuous mass of rock for which we had been steering. An
hour later, as we entered it, we met ice which had evidently
been formed inside and but recently broken up. It was per-
fectly smooth, showing absolutely no sign of pressure, and
therefore indicating what a secure wintering harbour the inlet
would make. But what struck us as most curious was that
every floe was a rectangle and looked as though it had been
purposely shaped with accuracy and precision ; it is difficult to
comprehend how an irregular ice-sheet can be broken naturally
in this manner; the swell which breaks it must be extremely
regular, and the ice-sheet must be astonishingly uniform. One
must infer also that very placid conditions exist in this well-
sheltered inlet both in winter and spring.

As we gradually worked our way into the inlet we could
see on our right a few small crevassed glaciers between high
cliffs showing faulted rock strata, of which our geologist at this
time could make little. On the left and nearer shore the
steep slopes were formed of broken angular boulders, with here
and there the native rock peeping through. Two or three miles
ahead the inlet took a sharp turn to the left. As no boat
could be used in such an ice-strewn bay, we were forced to reach
the shore by other means, and a large party was soon bounding
from floe to floe, now and then encountering a breach too
wide to be leaped and having to raft themselves across.

On shore we found that the boulders which had looked so
dingy from the ship were mostly composed of granite, and a
little chipping provided us with such a variety of this beautiful
crystalline rock that we afterwards named the inlet Granite
Harbour. Ice scratchings were visible on a few of the boulders,
but much weathering had taken place.

Enclosed by so much bare rock capable of absorbing the
sun's rays, and well protected from the wind, this inlet is prob-
ably the most sheltered spot in many a league of coastline,
and in this calm, bright weather we thoroughly enjoyed our
run on shore, and, except for the ice in the bay, could have
imagined ourselves in a far milder climate. We found small

I902] GRANITE HARBOUR 117

streams of water meandering over the stones, and it was
pleasant to hear their music and to drink the pure snow water,
and still pleasanter to find in their sheltered courses small
banks of moss of almost luxuriant growth. We headed up
the bay to see where the inlet ended after its sharp turn, and
disturbed several skuas guarding their fluffy slate-coloured
chicks. They showed their annoyance by wheeling round and
swooping down straight at us, only turning their course at the
very last moment, so that one was sometimes brushed by their
wings as they swept past with wild cries. The skua is a heavy
bird with a very formidable bill, and such attacks appear
alarming, as doubtless they are intended to do ; but though
we often saw them under similar conditions, I do not think
anyone was ever actually struck.

After scrambling over rocks for some time, we reached the
corner from which we could see the extremity of the inlet,
where the snout of a glacier of no great size dipped into the
sea. We saw at once that the inner recesses of this inlet would
have afforded us excellent shelter for the winter. In a week
or two the ice would have pushed out to sea, leaving a free
surface on the placid waters of the bay. Around the second
corner the sea swell had fallen to a small rhythmic movement
which could have caused little inconvenience. The steep
shores around were skirted everywhere with a low strip of fast
ice on which it would have been easy for us to land, and across
which we could have carried the heavy materials for construct-
ing our huts. Here and there on this ice-foot lay a somnolent
seal, giving assurance of winter food ; and although the waters
of the inlet were doubtless very deep, as they are in most
fiords, it is probable that in the vicinity of the glacier we should
have found some bank of morainic material on which we could
have cast our anchors ; in fact, altogether there was a promise
of snugness and security about this spot which we met no-
where else.

It is only on looking back on our experiences that I can
see how much we should have missed had we succumbed to the
allurements of this tempting spot. Surrounded as we should

ii8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have obtained
only the most local records of climatic conditions, and our
meteorological observations would have been comparatively
valueless ; but the greatest drawback would have been that
we should be completely cut off from travelling over the sea-
ice beyond the mouth of our harbour. There can be no
doubt that the sea-ice was constantly broken up along this
coast in the winter of 1902, and an attempt to travel to the
south along the coast without the assistance of the sea-ice
would have been beset with such innumerable dangers and
difficulties that it is possible we should never have reached
even as far south as the spot at which we eventually wintered.
It is when one remembers how naturally a decision to return
to this place might have been made that one sees how easily
the results of the expedition might have been missed.

When, after a stiff climb, we again came abreast of the
ship, we found the swell had increased, and it was only with
some difficulty that we regained the ship over the swaying
floes. Shortly after midnight we pushed out to sea, satisfied
that we had discovered a place which would serve us for
wintering in default of a better.

Turning again to the south, we found an open sea, and
crossed the 77th parallel; but early on the 21st the inevitable
pack appeared ahead, and we were forced away from the
coast in trying to pick the easiest channels. The ice we met
with at first was not formidable, but in the afternoon we
entered a pack of the hard solid ice which we were now
getting to know so well and to associate with the inlets on the
coast. The moment of entering this pack could be detected
exactly from the astonishing increase in the shocks sustained
by the ship.

At this time I still cherished a hope of being able to find
more southerly winter quarters than Granite Harbour, and,
searching the coastline with powerful glasses, thought I could
detect the promise of such on our starboard bow, and so
spent some hours in trying to push through the heavy obstruc-
tion that now met us. By 4 p.m., however, as we had

I902] McMURDO SOUND 119

progressed only a few hundred yards, we edged away to the
eastward, where things appeared more promising ; here we
got into ice which looked much heavier, as it was thickly
covered with snow, whereas the ice which we had been
attacking was practically bare and blue. The line of demar-
cation was well defined, and the difference in the nature of
the ice was felt the moment we crossed it — the heavy shocks
ceased and the ship was able to make gradual though slow
progress.

I have dwelt somewhat fully on the nature of the pack-ice
through which we passed at various times, because the dif-
ferences are so great, and because the subject is not only of
great interest but of vast importance to the navigator in these
seas. It was always a fascinating study to observe the pack-
ice, to infer the various conditions under which the ice had
been produced, and to note the extraordinary differences of
form that frozen sea-water can assume.

The night of the 21st was gloriously fine. By 8 a.m. we
were in the middle of McMurdo Sound, creeping slowly, very
slowly, through the pack-ice, which appeared from the crow's-
nest to extend indefinitely ahead. But a few miles separated
us from the spot where we were ultimately to take up our
winter quarters, and as we got to know this scene so well it is
interesting to recall some extracts from what I wrote when
first we gazed on it : ' To the right is a lofty range of moun-
tains with one very high peak far inland, and to the south a
peculiar conical mountain, seemingly ending the coastline in
this direction ; on the left is Mount Erebus, its foothills, and
a glimpse of Mount Terror. The Parry Mountains cannot be
seen ahead of us. In the far distance there is a small patch
like a distant island. Ross could not have seen these patches,
and a remnant of hope remains that we are heading for a strait,
and not a bay.'

This was written shortly after four, and at eight I added :
*. . . as we drove slowly southward the apparent islands ahead
broadened out, and there was no longer a doubt as to their
being connected to form the end of the bay. But it is highly

I20 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

satisfactory to note that there are no mountains in the back-
ground, and that so far as the eye can see there must be a
plain stretching directly south. . . . We now see that if fortune
allows us to winter in either of the two harbours we have
found, we shall have good prospect of getting to the south. . . .
In this manner the coastline to the south for nearly 40° of arc
is suggested by five dark rock patches and their connecting
snow slopes, this space being flanked on the right by the
conical hill and on the left by a spur of Erebus, which appears
to form a sharp headland.' It was easy afterwards to recognise
each point here noticed when, actually situated at the ' spur of
Erebus,' we named the conical mountain after our ship, and
the high western mountains in honour of the Royal Society ;
but it is curious to think that at this time I should have been
prepared to affirm that continuous land ran from Erebus to
the mainland.

So at 8 P.M. on the 21st we thought we knew as much of
this region as our heavy expenditure of coal in the pack-ice
would justify us in finding out, and as before us lay the great
unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay beyond it, we
turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho !

1902]

CHAPTER V

ALONG THE GREAT BARRIER

Strange Footprints — Landing under Mount Terror — Tlie Last Record
Left — Along the Great Barrier — New Land— Foggy Weather —
Surrounded by Bergs— We Lose our Bearings — Decision to Turn
Back — Good View of King Edward's Land —Landing on the Barrier
— Balloon Ascent — Return to Victoria Land.

She skirts the icy margin of the main,

And where unchanging from the first of time

Snows swell on snows amazing to the sky,

And icy mountains high on mountains pil'd

Seem to the shivering sailor from afar

Shapeless and white, an atmosphere of cloud. — Thomson.

In our journey from Cape Washington to the south we had
already done something to justify the despatch of the expedition.

A coastHne which had hitherto been seen only at a great
distance, and reported so indefinitely as to leave doubts in
many minds with regard to its continuity, had been resolved
into a concrete chain of mountains ; the positions and forms
of individual heights, with the curious ice formations and the
general line of the coast, had been observed. The lofty peaks
of Northern Victoria Land had been seen to be succeeded by
a comparatively low mountainous country of peculiarly sugges-
tive topographical outline, behind which a vast interior ice-cap
appeared to rise to greater heights. Towards the 78th parallel
the flanking ranges of the continent again rose to great
altitudes, and yet farther south we could see no tendency in
them to turn towards the east as had been supposed.

In all this we had been aided by the most astonishingly

122 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

fine weather ; instead of the gales, thick weather, and snow-
storms which we had expected, since the heavy weather off
Coulman Island, we had daily enjoyed bright sunshine, cloud-
less skies, and calm seas. We could but hope such good
fortune would continue on our journey to the eastward.

As we turned on the night of the 21st to push our way to
the open sea once more, we had a rather curious and exciting
adventure. Owing to some inexplicable wounds found on the
bodies of seals, it had been suggested that a land mammal
might exist in these regions, though hitherto unseen by man.
Most of us were incredulous of this theory, but on that night
we suddenly came on a floe covered with soft snow which bore
the impress of footprints wide apart and bearing every ap-
pearance of having been made by a large land animal. The
excitement was great, and observers with cameras were soon
over the side and breathlessly examining this strange spoor ;
but, alas ! it was soon detected that the impress was that of a
webbed foot, and gradually we came to the conclusion that
the footprints were those of a large giant petrel, and that their
distance apart was due to the fact that they had been made
when the bird, half-flying and half-walking, had been lazily
rising on the wing. Even the most imaginative had to concede
that we had not increased the prospect of finding a Polar bear
or any kindred animal in these inhospitable regions. Shortly
after midnight we reached the open water and shaped our
course to pass between Beaufort Island and the long snow
capes of Erebus.

In the morning we stopped to sound and dredge in this
channel ; we found a depth of 470 fathoms, but the fouling
of our trawl rendered our catch of sea beasts somewhat
disappointing.

The volcanoes of Erebus and Terror lie west and east,
united by a high humped ridge ; to the N.W. of Erebus
extends the long and lofty Cape Bird, whilst to the N.E. of
Terror, the slopes, blistered with innumerable volcanic cones,
descend to the splendid basaltic cliffs of Cape Crozier.

The northern face of this land is heavily glaciated, masses

I902] MOUNT TERROR 123

of crevassed neve descending to the sea, with a precipitous ice-
foot, except on the northern and N.E. slopes of Terror, where
the snow only occupies the deeper valleys, and where there
are such extensive areas of bare land that it looks quite
possible to ascend Mount Terror without encountering
snow slopes. In this region the land has therefore a
very dark appearance from the water's edge to the summit of
Terror.

It was this northerly view of Erebus and Terror that Ross
saw in his early voyages, and it is interesting to note that the
sketches made at that time show no extent of bare land ; more-
over. Sir Joseph Hooker, the great survivor of that expedition,
has told me he is almost certain that the slopes of Terror were
covered with snow when he saw them. Can it be possible
that the sheet of ice which exists elsewhere can have dis-
appeared from this region within the comparatively short space
of sixty years ?

At 8 P.M. we arrived off the bare land to the westward of
Cape Crozier, where the dark volcanic hillside reached the sea
in gentle slopes ; thousands of small Adelie penguins were
passing to and fro on the shelving beach, hurrying up steep
winding paths to their nests, or springing into the curling
breakers to seek their food.

We thought at first it might prove impossible to land, owing
to the northerly swell which broke high on the rocky promon-
tories, but immediately off the beach of the rookery lay a
number of grounded bergs which promised to form some
protection from the waves. One of our staunch whaleboats
was soon lowered into the water, and, somewhat crowded with
sixteen persons and a number of magnetic instruments, we
pulled for the land. On nearing the shore we found that in
spite of the icebergs the surf was considerable, and as we did
not at all wish to be upset into this icy sea, we approached the
beach with great caution. With our bows pointing to the shore
we waited for a heavy wave, when a sharp order was followed
by a strain on the oars, and we were carried to the beach on
its crest ; regardless of wet feet, all hands had then to leap out,

124 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

and heaving lustily on the painter and thwarts we soon had the
boat high and dry.

We proposed at this place to complete our chain of records,
and had brought with us a post, a tin cylinder containing an
account of our doings, and the necessary implements for erect-
ing them. A spot was chosen in the centre of the penguin
rookery on a small cliff overlooking the sea, and here our post
was set up and firmly anchored with numerous boulders. In
spite of all our efforts to mark the place at a few hundred
yards it was almost impossible to distinguish it, and one could
not help thinking that, should disaster come to the expedition,
what a poor reed was this on which alone we could trust to
afford our friends a clue to our whereabouts. Yet it was this
small post on the side of a vast mountain, in the midst of the
most extensive penguin rookery we had seen, that eventually
brought the ' Morning' to our side.

Whilst Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instru-
ments and started on their chilly task of taking observations
we others set off in twos and threes to climb the hillside in
various directions ; it was long before we could get clear of
the innumerable penguin colonies and the all-pervading odour
which they emit ; and as they occupy every inch of available
land we found ourselves clambering up steep screes of loose
stones, and climbing still steeper friable rock faces, getting
what hold we could on the deeply weathered surface. With
Royds and Wilson I at length reached the summit of the
highest of the adjacent volcanic cones, for which our aneroids
gave a height of 1,350 feet ; there we were rewarded by a first
view of the Great Ice Barrier. Perhaps of all the problems
w'hich lay before us in the south we were most keenly interested
in solving the mysteries of this great ice-mass. Sixty years
before Ross's triumphant voyage to the south had been
abruptly terminated by a frowning cliff of ice, which he traced
nearly 400 miles to the east ; such a phenomenon was unique,
and for sixty years it had been discussed and rediscussed, and
many a theory had been built on the slender foundation of
fact which alone the meagre information concerning it could

I902] ENRAGED PENGUINS 125

afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary ice-formation
was seen from above. The sea to the north lay clear and
blue, save where it was dotted by snowy-white bergs ; the
barrier edge, in shadow, looked like a long narrowing black
ribbon as it ran with slight windings to the eastern horizon.
South of this line, to the S.E. of our position, a vast plain
extended indefinitely, whilst faint shadows on its blue-grey
surface seemed to indicate some slight inequality in level ;
further yet to the south the sun faced us, and the plain was
lost in the glitter of its reflection. It was an impressive sight,
and the very vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to
our sense of its mystery.

But there was now 16° of frost, the chill air soon counter-
acted the warmth generated by our climb, and we were glad
to be again on the move. As we stumbled down the steep
inclines of the penguin rookery the astonished chicks ran
helter-skelter in all directions ; following blindly the direction
in which their beaks were pointing they frequently collided
with each other and ran full tilt into our legs. It was often
difficult to avoid treading on them ; but as the chicks scattered,
the old birds raised their ruffs in anger, and, quite devoid of
fear, rushed at us with hoarse cries of rage. After beating wildly
at our shins with their beaks and flippers they would fall back
growling and cursing in the most abominable manner. Shortly
after we regained the beach our magnetic observers completed
their task, and when they had taken a short run to rouse up
their chilled circulation we all assembled to launch the boat.

This did not prove by any means an easy matter. Await-
ing our opportunity, we rushed her down on a receding wave,
and up to our knees in water we endeavoured to launch her
clear of the surf and at the same time to spring on board ; but
the next wave caught our stern, and in a moment we were
broadside on and in imminent risk of being swamped. It was
an occasion which called for instant action, and when it was
good to have a boat manned by sailors. At the critical
moment Mr. Barne leapt over the side and seized the stern of
the boat, and his example was instantly followed by two or

126 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

three of the sailors ; and though the next curling wave swept
over these devoted people, the boat luckily met it stern on and
was poled out to sea as it receded. It was not a time when
one would willingly take a bath, and our wet companions were
glad to seize the oars and pull as hard as they could towards
the ship ; but by this time Mr. Armitage, in swinging the ship,
had been carried some way to the west, so that when we got
on board, teeth were chattering and hot cocoa or grog was felt
to be very desirable.

From Cape Crozier the land turns sharply to the south in a
magnificent black volcanic cliff in parts 700 or 800 feet sheer
above the sea. The barrier edge extends at right angles from
the southern end of the cliff, and at first has a very rugged
appearance where the ice-mass presses past the land, but within
a few miles it settles down into its uniform wall-like aspect.

Early on the 23rd we started to steam along this long ice-
face, hoping that fortune would favour us in discovering more
facts concerning it, and especially in finding out what lay at its
eastern extremity. In order that nothing important should be
missed, it was arranged that the ship should continue to skirt
close to the ice-cliff; that the officers of the watch should
repeatedly observe and record its height, and that thrice in the
twenty-four hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding
taken. In this manner, during the following days, we were
able to make a comparatively accurate survey of this
northern limit of the barrier, and the result is indicated on the
chart.

On the morning of the 23rd we found that the barrier edge
did not exceed sixty or seventy feet in height, and though the
weather was slightly overcast we could see for a long distance
over the ice to the S.W. from our crow's-nest. It was on
looking in this direction, but from a greater distance, that Ross
thought he distinctly saw a high range of mountains running to
the south from Mount Terror. He described them as ' prob-
ably higher than anything we have yet seen,' and named
them the Parry Mountains. It will be remembered that when
in McMurdo Sound I had some doubt as to these mountains.

I902] ALONG THE GREAT BARRIER 127

and it is therefore of interest to note the entry made in my
diary on this occasion :

* Over the barrier and to the S.W. could be seen some
small or apparently small hills, showing bare rock patches, but
nothing could be seen of the Parry Mountains, and judging by
our position two days ago we seem to have been viewing the
hills which form or are close to the limits of McMurdo Bay.
. . . The southern slope of Erebus can be distinctly seen. . . .
There seems every probability of getting over this slope on to
the ice-plain if we winter west.'

Already there was a strong case against the Parry Moun-
tains, and later we knew with absolute certainty that they did
not exist ; it is difficult to understand what can have led such
a cautious and trustworthy observer as Ross to make such an
error. I am inclined to think that in exaggerating the height
of the barrier in this region, he was led to suppose that any-
thing seen over it at a distance must necessarily be of very
great altitude ; but, whatever the cause, the fact shows again
how deceptive appearances may be and how easily errors may
arise. In fact, as I have said before, one cannot always afford
to trust the evidence of one's own eyes.

On steaming along the barrier, we soon found that Ross
had exaggerated not only its height, but its uniformity. This
was perhaps natural, as in a sailing ship he dared not approach
too closely, and often had to estimate the height when at a
great distance ; and the want of uniformity can only be deter-
mined by close measurement. It can be readily imagined that
even if the height changes from 70 to 240 feet in ten miles, the
change is so gradual that it cannot be detected by the eye at a
distance, as the higher part will only appear to be closer.
The only way in which the inequality can be detected is to
follow the wall closely, when the change of height must be
obvious. Ross had to judge his barrier from the very few
places in which he was able to approach it closely.

Though we started with a long stretch of barrier not more
than 70 feet high, by the evening of the 23rd it had risen to
240 feet. During the night the wind came off the barrier, and

128 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

the temperature fell to io° • shortly after, it again came from
the sea, and the temperature rose to 25°. Later, this change
of temperature with a shift of wind became still more marked,
and already we began to wonder what that great snow plain
would be like in winter if it produced this great fall in the
warmer summer air. Up to this time our clothing had been
little out of the ordinary, but we now found that standing
about on the bridge or sitting in the crow's-nest was chilly
work, and warmer garments were dug out of our various drawers
and lockers.

Though we were several days steaming along this ice-wall,
the passage was by no means monotonous. Every few
hours some new variation showed itself : now a sharp inlet or
other irregularity of outline, now a more than ordinary alteration
in height, now a change in appearance showing a difference in
the length of time that the ice-face had been exposed ; and
throughout we could watch the gradual shoaling or deepening
of the sea-floor as shown by the sounding machine. My diary
is principally devoted to figures giving the definite data con-
cerning these matters ; but a few more general extracts may
serve to give an idea of our progress along the ice-wall from
day to day :

'■January 24. — Barrier fell from 240 feet to 80, and later to
50, but gradually rose again in the evening to 90. Soundings
both over and under 400 fathoms. Barrier sometimes very
broken and rugged in outline. Passed some bergs and sharp
inlets. Noon, long. 176.45 E., progress 862 miles. In evening
weather became overcast with snow.'

January 25. — Barrier fell in night to 30, gradually rose to
80 feet, when there was a sudden dip for 200 yards to 15 feet.
In afternoon irregular rise to 100 feet at midnight. Put sail
on the ship in morning watch, but, wind hauling ahead,
obhged to clew up. Passed over fifty icebergs in course of
the day, the first we have seen since leaving Cape Crozier.
They were mostly irregular in shape, but two, close to the
barrier, had evidently recently calved off that mass ; the line of
separation was very regular and even, and the bergs floated in

1902 ALONG THE GREAT BARRIER 129

precisely the same manner as they had when they formed part
of the ice-sheet. Noon, long. 1S4 E., progress 91 miles.
Evening, appear to be passing inside a very large berg detached
from the barrier. Sounding 350 to 300 fathoms.'

'■January 26. — The iceberg on the port bow turned out to
be attached to the barrier ; we appeared to be steaming through
a long channel until 5 a.m., when we found ourselves at the
head of an inlet. The ice on our right-hand side gradually
sloped down from 120 feet to 20 feet at the extremity of the
inlet ; here it suddenly dropped to 8 feet, and on our left very
gradually rose again to 90 feet. Our sounding here was 315
fathoms, and our lat. 78.36 S., the highest we have reached.
The weather was very misty and overcast, and we could not
see the ending of our channel until we were close on it. There
was nothing to be done but to turn round and come out again,
and on reaching the end of the ice-cliff, now on our right, we
found a stiff E.N.E. breeze blowing, with a short sea causing
the ship to pitch heavily. The temperature had risen to 31°.
As we could not hope to make headway against this wind, we
made plain sail on clearing the inlet, and allowing our steam
to drop, we stood to sea close-hauled on the starboard tack.
Later, the wind, which never blew above force 7, backed to
the S.E., and not wishing to run too far from the barrier, we
put about at 8 p.m. The glass, which has been low, is again
rising.'

^January 27. — During the night the glass rose and the wind
fell, and as we approached the barrier we put over our
"Agassiz" trawl; the contents were not plentiful, but, I
understand, contain several new species. In the afternoon we
furled sails and steamed towards the barrier. When we
started to steam along it, we were evidently making little or no
headway against a westerly set of at least three knots. Our
very slow progress hitherto has been to a great extent due to
an adverse current, which is much stronger at some times than
at others : it is not improbable that there is a tidal effect
which alternately accelerates and retards the current, but the
net result is a strong set to the west. The present excessive

VOL. I. K

I30 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

force of the stream is probably due to the recent wind. We
shall have to light up our second boiler. Along the barrier
there is a heavy vapour rising from the water, and the water
temperature has risen half a degree.

'Noon, long. 174.22 W. ; negative progress for the day,
and only a very few miles to the eastward of our position on
the 25th. . . . Two whole days practically wasted ; one
requires a great deal of patience for this sort of work. Tried
a new sounding tube, made with the object of getting mud
from below the surface ; the tube brought up a column of
mud 18 inches in length, but there appeared to be no differ-
ence in consistency between the upper and lower layers.'

'■Jatiuary 28. — Passed abeam of the ice peninsula inside
which we steamed on the night of the 25th. It rose from
90 to 150 feet, and soundings off its edge were all about
300 fathoms. About noon a lot of loose ice appeared ahead.
It was found to consist of very low bergs and pieces of bergs,
apparently broken from the barrier where it is quite low,
and probably some way to the east, as the westerly drift is
strong. We were obliged to stand some way off the barrier to
avoid this ice, and at 4 p.m. a thick fog came down on us. In
the evening the weather cleared, and we stood in towards the
barrier again, passing a prominent ice peninsula with a cliff
200 feet in height. The barrier was again very irregular, and
detached bergs could be seen in the various indents. Noon,
long. 167.44 W. Progress, 80 miles. We are passing on
slowly but surely to Ross's most easterly position.'

^January 29. — The barrier became very rugged and broken
during the night, and soon after twelve it dropped to a few
feet. We were running close to it in a fairly thick fog, but the
speed was not great, and with a sharp look-out, the ice could
be seen in good time. At 2.30 we ran into a small creek, only
noticing our position by finding ice on both sides ; that on the
right was barely three or four feet above the water, sloping
gradually up to 30 to 40 feet ; that on the left was from 30 to
40 feet and sheer. The inlet was most irregular in shape, as,
indeed, was the ice surface.

1902] AN INTERESTING SPOT 131

' This morning the low edge continued for several hours,
and during the day we passed along a very smooth, straight
cliff of uniform height, and again to our annoyance, found the
current making to the west so strong that our progress was
practically stopped until we could raise more steam. Sound-
ings for day all about 360 fathoms. Noon, long. 162.6 W. ;
lat. 78.18 S. Passed a curious subsidence in the uniform ice-
wall, where for some 300 yards there was a depression filled
with hummocky ice.'

We had succeeded thus far in making a fairly complete
investigation of the northern face of the barrier in spite of not
a little thick and unpleasant weather, and, as will be gathered,
we had found not only that it differed considerably from the
rather uniform ice-wall which Ross had led us to expect, but
that there were many puzzling features which seemed to in-
crease rather than diminish as we approached its eastern
extremity. It was not until later, when our positions were
plotted, that we fully realised the significance of the fact that
our course throughout had been to the southward of Ross's
barrier, and that we had sailed continuously over ground which
in his day had been covered with a solid ice-sheet.

What we thought of it all I do not propose to set down at
present, but I hope that, having added other facts which we
were able to glean concerning it, I shall be able to throw some
light at least on this very extraordinary ice formation.

By noon on this day, January 29, we had arrived at a
particularly interesting place, as we were to the southward and
eastward of the extreme position reached by Sir James Ross
in 1842. From that extreme position he reported a strong
appearance of land to the south-east, and in most minds there
rested the conviction that land had actually been seen at that
time. It was therefore with great curiosity that all eyes were
directed over the icy cliffs to the south-east. The afternoon
was bright and clear, and if Ross had seen land it must
evidently be well within our view.

But alike from below and from aloft we could see nothing,
and were obliged to conclude that the report was based on

132 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY [Jan.

one of those strange optical illusions which are so common in
this region, and against which, now more than ever, we were
determined to guard ourselves.

In spite of our disappointment at being unable to report
that Ross's ' appearance of land ' rested on a solid foundation,
as we steamed along this high ice-wall on the afternoon of the
29th we had an indescribable sense of impending change.
The constant differences which we had observed in the barrier
outline during the past twenty-four hours seemed to us to
indicate strongly the proximity of land, though probably none
of us could have produced a very tangible argument to sup-
port this view. We all felt that the plot was thickening, and
we could not fail to be inspirited by the facts that we had not
so far encountered the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported in
this region, and that consequently we were now sailing in an
open sea into an unknown world.

Many an eager face peered over the side ; now and then a
more imaginative individual would find some grand discovery
in the cloud-forms that fringed the horizon, but even as he
reported it in excited tones his image would fade and he would
be forced to sink again into crestfallen silence.

Meanwhile we were making comparatively rapid progress
along the uniform high wall on our right. Perhaps the engines,
as well as those in charge of them, were eager to find out what
lay beyond. Our course lay well to the northward of east,
and the change came at 8 p.m., when suddenly the ice-cliff
turned to the east, and, becoming more and more irregular,
continued in that direction for about five miles, when it again
turned sharply to the north.

Into the deep bay thus formed we ran, and as we ap-
proached the ice which lay ahead and to the eastward of us
we saw that it differed in character from anything we had yet
seen. The ice-foot descended to varying heights of ten or
twenty feet above the water, and behind it the snow surface
rose in long undulating slopes to rounded ridges whose height
we could only estimate If any doubt remained in our minds
that this was snow-covered land, a sounding of 100 fathoms

1902] NEW LAND 133

quickly dispelled it. But what a land ! On the swelling
mounds of snow above us there was not one break, not
a feature to give definition to the hazy outline. In-
stinctively one felt that such a scene as this was most per-
fectly devised to produce optical illusions in the explorer, and
to cause those errors into which we had found even experienced
persons to be led. What could be the height of that misty
summit ? And what the distance of that shadowy undulation?
Instruments provided no answer — we could but guess; and
although guesses gave an average height of 800 or 900 feet to
the visible horizon, one would have been little surprised to
learn that the reality was half or double that amount.

Around us were several icebergs grounded in the shallow
sea ; some lay on their sides, and in these for the first time
we saw discoloured layers caused by embedded sand and dirt.
Our geologist departed in a boat to inspect these bands, whilst
we lowered a small net and delighted the biologist's heart
with a good haul from the sea floor.

It was late at night before all was ready for proceeding, and
by this time the eastern sky was banking up, and later the air
was thick with falling snow. A sounding at 2 a.m. gave us the
bottom at 265 fathoms, and at six the snow ceased and we
could see a 200-foot ice-wall again with slopes estimated to rise
to 500 feet behind. But an hour or more later, when all were
once more astir for the day's work, a thick fog descended on
us, blotting out for the time all hope of seeing what lay beyond
the ice-foot.

Throughout the morning and afternoon of the 30th we
continued to grope our way along, endeavouring to keep close
to the ice masses on our right, whilst avoiding the deeper bays.
Now and then the foggy curtain lifted slightly and revealed
what lay within a mile or two of us, but beyond that all was
tantahsingly obscure. Soundings were taken frequently, and,
varying from 90 to 100 fathoms, showed that we were again in
comparatively shallow water.

During the night the trend of the ice-foot had carried us
due north, but in the morning we turned sharply to the east,

134 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

and throughout the day seemed to be passing from cape to
cape of a very indented coastline. When the fog allowed us
to see them more clearly, we found that these capes were
detached masses of ice of curious shape. Varying from a
half to a mile or more across, and surrounded by a steep but
low ice-cliff, they rose on all sides to a rounded ridge 200 or
300 feet in height. Soundings taken close to these curious
ice-masses showed them to be aground, and we were much
puzzled to account for them, as, although they were irregular
in outhne and differed in detail, all had the same feature of
gradually rising to a rounded central eminence. It was diffi-
cult to imagine that grounded icebergs could have assumed
this shape, and almost as difficult to think that under each ice-
cap lay some rocky islet. In our then bewildered frame of
mind we called them ice islands, and it was not until we had
a larger experience and could take a more general view of the
glaciation of the whole region that we arrived at any plausible
theory to account for their formation. In the fog we headed
more than once to pass between and inside these ice islands,
but always to run into a deep bay bounded by fast sea-ice,
which formed a hummocky junction with the inner end of each
island.

Early in the day we became aware that the pack-ice, which
we had so long avoided, lay thick in our offing. Occasionally
we had to push through narrow streams which opened out into
broader masses on our left. It seemed as though we were
threading a narrow channel left along the shore by the effect
of the easterly wind on the moving ice.

At 4 P.M. (January 30) a more promising lift in the fog
enabled us to gather information with regard to our surround-
ings. Beyond the extensive sheet of fast sea-ice which abutted
on the ice islands, we could see the customary ice-cliff of vary-
ing height which marked the coastline, but behind this cliff
there was now no doubt that the snow surface rose in altitude.
The rise in places was gradual, much as we had seen it on the
previous night, but in others the slope must have been much
steeper, for here the ice-sheet was torn and distorted and

1902] GLIMPSES OF LAND 135

descended in heavily crevassed falls. Even in the uncertain
light the contrast of light and shadow made it evident that it
rose to an altitude of many hundred feet, and consequently
that land must lie beneath it ; but, peer as we would into the
misty distance, amongst the steep and rugged icy slopes, we
could see no sign of bare land, without which our discovery
must remain so barren to ourselves.

It was as the bell sounded for our evening meal, and all
save the officer of the watch were preparing to descend, that
over the summit of the ice island for which we were making,
appeared two or three little black patches, which at first we
took for detached cloud. We gazed idly enough at them till
someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds ;
then all glasses were levelled ; assertions and contradictions
were numerous, until the small black patches gradually assumed
more and more definite shape, and all agreed that at last we
were looking at real live rock, the actual substance of our
newly discovered land.

Dinner had to wait until on rounding the ice islands we
could approach these fascinating patches as near as the fast ice
would allow ; but this still separated us from them by a great
distance, and in the misty, overcast weather we could add but
little to our knowledge, as the following extracts from my diary
will show :

' . . . At a height of about 2,000 feet several rock patches
could be seen. The snow slope from which they emerged
seemed to be otherwise gradual and unbroken. One could
not say to what height it rose beyond, but the rock alone was
sufficient to prove that the tall ice ridges which we saw yester-
day and to-day cover solid land of considerable altitude. . . .
These particular patches appeared in the centre of a long
ridge, the outline of which it was very difficult to distinguish
for want of adequate contrast. The wind has changed to the
east, so that we may hope for clearer weather.'

It is curious to reflect now on the steps which led us to the
discovery of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence
which came to us before the actual land itself was seen : at

136 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

first there had been the shallow soundings, and the sight of
gently rising snow slopes, of which, in the nature of things,
one is obliged to retain a doubt ; then the steeper broken
slopes of snow, giving a contrast to convey a surer evidence to
the eye ; and, finally, the indubitable land itself, but even then
surrounded with such mystery as to leave us far from complete
satisfaction with our discovery.

As we continued our course to the N.E. we held close
along the fast ice which prevented us from approaching to the
land. The weather was still dull and overcast, but we could
see that the fast ice on our right was no longer plain sea-ice ;
at the edge it stood seven or eight feet above the water, and
seemed to rise to fifteen feet or more on the slope of the
cornice that overhung the edge, after which the surface ran
back on the level for many miles. We could see hazily the
extent of this plateau and the rocky exposure of the land
which lay beyond. It is difficult to account for this ice-sheet ;
it was too thick to be considered sea-ice, and yet was far
thinner than any land-ice or barrier formation that we saw
elsewhere. Both before and after this we passed at sea very
low tabular bergs, which must have come from such a sheet as
this. Our soundings running along this edge gradually in-
creased from 88 fathoms at 8 p.m. to 265 fathoms at midnight ;
but later we came to several more of the curious ice islands
which I have described, and close to these we again got
100 fathoms. During the night some more patches of exposed
rock had been sighted, but we seemed in the uncertain light to
be increasing our distance from them.

On the morning of the 31st the weather outlook was as
dismal as ever, and all outward and visible signs of the land
had vanished ; we could only guess its proximity by the con-
tinuously shallow soundings as we circumnavigated the over-
hanging capes of occasional ice islands. As the fog lifted
slightly in the forenoon we found ourselves surrounded by
mighty masses of ice. On the right the ice islands showed
more clearly, and on the left were numerous lofty bergs, some
of very great extent ; one, indeed, we estimated as at least six

I902] SURROUNDED BY BERGS 137

miles in one direction, and as probably more in another. But
yet more unwelcome to our eyes than this formidable array of
bergs was the vast amount of heavy pack-ice which lay scat-
tered in all directions, and blocking the channels between the
bergs. Though our hearts sank at the thought of so much
obstruction, we could aflford to admire such a majestic and
impressive ice scene. Under a dark, threatening sky the pack-
ice showed intensely white in an inky sea, whilst the towering
walls of the icebergs frowned over us, shaded from the palest
to the most intense blue.

Most of the icebergs seemed aground, and as their height
often exceeded 200 feet and our soundings were comparatively
shallow, I have little doubt that the majority were at least
temporarily at anchor. For a few brief minutes we could see
the distant outline of our snow-covered land as we threaded
our way amongst these great ice-masses and through the
shifting streams of pack which lay between them, then for the
time all attention had to be devoted to navigation. As our
water supply was getting short, early in the afternoon we were
obliged to secure to a large floe in order to replenish it. We
had little difficulty in finding a suitable one, as the pack-ice
about us was heavier than anything we had yet seen. It is
evident that in this region there is much pressure and a con-
siderable snowfall, as the floes were very hummocky and their
snow-covering thick ; but the ice itself was by no means so
hard as that which we had met near the coast of Victoria Land.

During the afternoon the weather cleared somewhat, and
for the first time for many days the sun shone forth. There
was little wind, and the low temperature was already forming
young ice over the calmer patches of sea. After a few hours'
delay we pushed on once more, and, passing through a very
narrow channel between two bergs, reached a sheet of open
water which appeared to stretch for a long distance to the
north, but this was bounded on the right by a sheet of fast
sea-ice, whose edge ran almost due north and threatened to
carry us farther from the land which we had last seen trending
in a north-easterly direction.

138 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

As we could not penetrate this sheet, there was no choice
but to follow its edge, which we proceeded to do, hoping that
it would eventually turn in a more promising direction.

During the last few days of fog and mist we had seen a few
seals and a large number of penguins of both the species which
inhabit these regions. The latter appeared to live on the
most amicable terms, and it was a common sight to see a few
alert, busy little Ad^lies preening themselves amidst a group
of dignified, ponderous Emperors ; both showed great curiosity
as we passed, and leapt into the water in our wake with loud
squawks. What great speed these birds must possess in the
water is shown by the manner in which they shoot out of it
and land erect on a floe two or three feet above the surface.
Occasionally on an exceptionally high ice-edge they miss their
aim and, dashing heavily against the ice, fall sprawling back
into the sea with wild complaints ; but this does not appear to
disconcert them, for with wonderful pertinacity they will try
again and again to reach their goal. As we advanced, the
Emperors grew more numerous, until it was rare not to have
two or three groups of a dozen or more birds in sight from the
bridge.

In the comparatively clear weather which we enjoyed on
the afternoon of the 31st we could get a good view over the
immense sheet of sea-ice, which appeared to be gradually
carrying us farther from the land. It was quite smooth and
showed no sign of pressure, but here and there the ice was
sunken and sodden, giving the appearance of large pools of
water. At that time we could hazard no guess as to the cause
of this decay, though doubtless it is the same effect as we
afterwards witnessed in the ice-sheet about the * Discovery ' in
places where the current ran over a shallow bottom.

Far in on the ice-sheet we could see a few small bergs
securely frozen in and drifted up with snow, and grouped
about the base of one or two of these were many hundreds
of Emperor penguins. The steady increase in the groups we
had met with and their final discovery in such great numbers
seemed to indicate that we had at length found their breeding-

1902] WE LOSE OUR BEARINGS 139

place, and as this had never yet been seen, our excellent zoolo-
gist was all eagerness to explore it ; but in the circumstances
I thought it hopeless to attempt to cross the treacherous,
slushy sheet of ice which lay between, and reluctantly we
were forced to steam past this interesting spot, hoping that
we might have better fortune on our return journey. In the
light of fuller information which we were able to obtain con-
cerning these birds, it seems doubtful whether this really was
their breeding-place, but at any rate it would have been inter-
esting to know what they were doing in such numbers.

Our eager outlook for land beyond the great ice-sheet was
only partly rewarded ; far to the south-east we could see the
faint undulating lines of the high snow slopes, but in the dim
expanse of white no sign of exposed rock appeared, and even the
outlines vanished as the sun travelled lower towards the south.

At midnight an appearance of land was reported in the
E.N.E. ; a bank of cloud hung low upon the horizon, and its
fixed position and unchanging form seemed to indicate that
land lay beneath it. Though glasses were constantly directed
towards it, no more definite form was ever revealed, but it is
curious to note that on the following day a similar cloudy
indication was visible in this direction.

It was after midnight on the 3rst that we got lost. Leaving
the ship steaming along the edge of the fast ice in a northerly
direction, as I have described, I went below to snatch a few
hours of the sleep of which the late exciting times had robbed
me, and have only a dim recollection of constant reports that
the ship had to take a more westerly course owing to ice
islands, bergs and pack, and in obedience to a general order
to keep in the open water, westerly gradually became southerly^
and so on until, as we were headed off again and again, the
ship must have worked round a complete circle. She was
well on towards a repetition of this manoeuvre when I again
reached the bridge, and nobody knew exactly where we were.
It was evident that the stretch of open water which we had
entered through a very narrow channel on the previous even-
ing was surrounded by a chain of immense bergs, between

I40 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Jan.

which the channels were sometimes blocked by fast ice and
sometimes by heavy pack, and the latter was constantly
altering its position and streaming across the bay in the most
confusing manner. The only way out of this cul-de-sac seemed
to be to take the same narrow road by which we had entered,
but where was it? Meanwhile the whole bay was covered
with a rapidly thickening coating of tough young ice, through
which it was by no means easy to force a passage, and it
looked as though, had we stopped to consider matters, we
should have had some difficulty in starting again. Our be-
wilderment was, if anything, increased by suddenly coming
across the very floe from which we had watered on the previous
afternoon. What was it doing here ? It was certainly a long
way from where we had seen it before. For more than an
hour we splintered through the young ice in a very confused
frame of mind, when the sharp eye of Mr. Royds brought to
our notice a conspicuous feature which we all recognised as
belonging to one of the bergs between which we had entered,
and soon we skirted round it and to our relief found the
narrow passage still open.

The rapid formation of young ice at this season of the year
was to some extent alarming. To be obliged to winter in these
regions would have been a great calamity, since we could
scarcely hope to have travelled far from our base. At a later
date, when we knew more of the seasonal changes and
appreciated how frequently young ice is formed and dissipated,
even in the height of the Antarctic summer, we should not
have regarded this phenomenon as serious, but at this time we
had very little to go upon, and were exceedingly glad to get
into a clearer sea once more.

At noon on February i we were five miles south of our
position on the previous day, looking in all directions for some
lead which would take us through the thick pack to the N.W.
and again allow us to approach the coast at a farther point ;
but though we entered several promising channels, they
speedily ended, where from the crow's-nest one could see
nothing but one vast sea of ice.

I902] GOOD VIEW OF KING EDWARD'S LAND 141

It now became a question what to do. Should we remain
here and wait for the pack to open ? There was still a chance
that we might be able to push farther to the eastward with
patience. But then what of the coast of Victoria Land and
what of our coal supply ? With young ice forming so rapidly
here, it well might be that in a fortnight the harbours to the
west would be closed and we could ill afford the loss of coal
that waiting here would entail.

I decided to return, but it is natural enough that sometimes
vague regrets should arise that we did not attempt to push
farther to the east. That we need not have feared the closing
of the season is obvious, but that we should have been hard
put to it for coal at a later date is equally certain. One can
never do quite what one would wish in these matters. In the
afternoon the wind came from the east and rapidly cleared the
sky as we steered back on the course by which we had come,
and, with wind and current fair, so rapidly cleared the ground
that by night we were again abreast of the icy plateau beyond
which we had first seen the exposed rock of King Edward's
Land.

We could now see the coastline clearly for many miles.
On the left was the low barrier formation of which I have
already spoken, and which I now note as * ten to twelve feet
high and sloping up for a short distance, when it runs horizon-
tally for ten or eleven miles to the base of a range of well-
defined hills.' To the right and left of two groups of hills
which lay opposite to us, a thin stratus cloud partially hid the
outline of continuously high snow-covered ridges, and the
same thin veil hung in the broad valley between the groups ;
but the sharp peaks of the groups were clearly outlined against
the sky, and with a sextant and the distance given by four-
point bearing, we were able to calculate the altitude as between
2,000 and 3,000 feet.

The outline suggested a volcanic country, but although
many of the slopes were steep, the bare rock appeared only in
a very few places ; and where some lofty spur was flanked by a
sheer precipice, the more gradual slopes at the base of the hills

142 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

and the deep-cut valleys presented a uniform white surface,
save where, here and there, it was broken by crevasses or ice
cascades.

Behind the broader valley which separated the hill groups
the outline of farther ranges was strongly indicated, and con-
vinced us that the high land extended far back beyond the
coastal hills, and that our new-found land was not a group of
islets, but a country of considerable altitude and extent. But
although we gazed for hours through our glasses and en-
deavoured to drink in every detail of this distant view, we could
not but long to traverse the snowy plain and throw yet more
light on our discovery. Had we then known our sledge equip-
ment and dogs as we afterwards came to know them, had we
been as prepared for such adventures as we afterwards were, I
should certainly have made a dash towards the distant hills.
As we were then situated, the plan, though it occurred to us,
seemed to involve unjustifiable risk and delay. Such are the
disadvantages of inexperience.

Throughout the night the bridge was well occupied until
the low skimming sun, gradually facing us, obscured all detail
in its glaring path, and the officer of the watch was left to face
the chill morning hours alone. By the morning our course
had turned again from west to south, and in bright weather we
skirted a lofty ice-cliff which before we had only seen dimly
through the fog. Throughout the day this ice-cliff rose and
fell ; when it was low, we could see high rising snow-slopes in
the background, and whilst calculating that they rose to a height
of 950 feet, had again to deplore the want of definition which
rendered exact observations impossible.

Many grounded and tilted bergs lay in the offing, and here
and there was one which, though detached from the cUff, had
tilted and remained at anchor close to it. The conditions
were quite different from those which obtained along the
barrier edge, and we could not doubt that the ice which we saw
was firmly planted on the ground and broke away as it became
water-borne. In the afternoon for a brief space the ice-cliff
rose to a height of 280 feet, and we passed close to this sheer

1902] A HUGE ICE-CLIFF 143

wall of ice, the highest that we were ever fated to see in the
Antarctic Regions ; as we passed by this huge stationary object,
we could see how strongly the current was making with us : it
increased our speed by at least two knots. As night approached,
the wind, which had been increasing throughout the day, de-
scended on us with great violence from the high ice-cliffs, filled
with whirling clouds of drifting snowdust swept from the plains
beyond ; the temperature fell to 5 ", and soon the rigging was
festooned with icicles and the decks covered with a thin layer
of ice. The date corresponded with August 2 in England,
and we wondered how flannel-clad holiday makers would enjoy
an Antarctic summer, and, as this sort of thing was the Antarctic
summer, what the Antarctic winter would be like.

We steered away from the ice-wall and escaped from the
clouds of drift, only to get into a sharp sea where the wind
raised clouds of spray which froze solid as it fell.

Later in the night the wind fell to a fiat calm, and before
the temperature rose the whole sea was covered with pancake
ice, but as the sun gained power the temperature crept up to
22°, and with a slight breeze the young ice quickly vanished.
In reflecting on recent experiences, although at this time our
ideas were not thoroughly sifted, I vaguely realised that in-
dications pointed to the fact that the Great Barrier did not
rest on land, and since the ice which we had seen to the east
undoubtedly did, there must be some place where the con-
ditions changed, some junction which we ought to explore.
Somewhere abreast of us now should be one of those deeper in-
dentations in the ice-mass, where we might reasonably suppose
the change took place, and it occurred to me that we might
glean further knowledge by re-examining this part. As we
had been driven some way to the northward, it was several
hours before we were sufficiently close to recognise the deep
bight for which I had determined to make, and it was well on
in the afternoon before we turned into it and had the ice on
each side of us. We found that the inlet had several branches ;
selecting the most southerly, we turned sharply into it and
entered a creek facing towards the east, inside which we were

144 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

completely shut off from a view of the sea. The ice-wall
which surrounded us rarely rose above twenty feet, and in
places descended almost to the water level. Selecting a spot
on a level with the ship's bulwarks, we placed the ship along-
side it and secured her with our ice-anchors so closely that we
were able to step from the rail on to the snow surface beyond.
The valley of the inlet was continued between rising snow-
slopes for several miles to the west, and in its hollow a con-
tinuous crack ran through ice standing only a few feet above
the water level. Along this crack were numerous seal holes,
and quite a hundred of these animals lay asleep on the snow
within easy reach of them.

As it was now late, and the light was poor, and as we
appeared to be in a secure position, it was decided that work
should be deferred till the morrow, and the more energetic
were soon mounted on ski and pursuing a very uncertain
course over the rough snow. Armitage had asked permission
to take a small sledge party in a southerly direction, and with
Bernacchi and four men and a light sledge equipment he was
soon marching up the valley ; and later a black dot on the
snow showed us that the party had turned to the south and
were mounting the rise.

Skiing did not prove such good sport as was expected.
The wind had raised quantities of irregular waves or sastrugi
on the snow surface, and in the uncertain light these could not
be seen until one actually tumbled over them, and as no one
progressed more than a few yards at a time without a fall, it
was not long before all, except the sledge party, were on board
once more, when we took a sounding, and found that there
was a depth of 315 fathoms under the ship. On our arrival in
the inlet not a fragment of loose ice could be seen, but as we
were trying to take the temperature of the water at different
depths we found our work much impeded by small ice-floes,
which were being crowded into the inlet by a strong surface
current that now ran towards and under the ice at the head of
the inlet. Feeling in some security, I had looked forward to a
quiet night, after many broken ones, but the sight of this ice

<f' / f

SHIV IX BALLOON' INLET.

HEADY TO GO UP.

1902] COLLISION WITH AN ICEBERG 145

was not reassuring, especially when amongst the floes there
appeared two or three small icebergs. One of these bore
down on the ship before we had sufficient steam to move her,
and by the few on deck it was watched with very anxious eyes.
As it approached we breathed a sigh of relief, imagining that
it would just clear our side by a foot or two, but on coming
abreast of us it slowly turned and a small projection on it
caught and grazed our side. As far as the berg was con-
cerned it was the merest glancing touch, but, wrenching a
large piece out of the solid oak covering board, it gave the
' Discovery ' a squeeze which caused every beam and frame to
groan, and brought all hands on deck with scared faces. This
berg was not more than twenty yards across, and its top, which
was irregular and pinnacled, was nowhere more than twenty
feet in height, nor was it travelling with any great speed ; yet
the shock of a mere graze from it was great enough thoroughly
to alarm everyone below, and there can be little doubt that
had it met us fair and square the consequences might have
been most serious. It is difficult to realise what an over-
whelming force even a small berg may represent, until
one remembers that it is, perhaps, barely one-sixth of its
mass that is visible, and that there must be always
thousands of tons submerged to support the hundreds which
are seen.

Even with this knowledge, after beholding the stupendous
masses of ice which are borne high on the great flat-topped
bergs, we had been perhaps inclined to pay too little attention
to the more insignificant-looking ones, but we learnt now that
an iceberg of any dimensions is not to be trifled with, and it
can be imagined that whilst we remained in the inlet we had
steam at very short notice as well as a bright look-out. On
the following morning our berg, as well as the pack-ice, took
its way out to sea again, clearly showing that there is a regular
tidal stream in this region ; and as, in spite of this, we and the
barrier-ice about us rose and fell together, there was no doubt
that at least this part of the barrier was afloat.

At an early hour on this day, February 4, we commenced

VOL. I. L

146 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

to make preparations for a balloon ascent to extend our know-
ledge of the surrounding region.

It was Sir Joseph Hooker who first suggested the carriage
of a balloon for obtaining a view over the great southern ice-
wall, and when, after much difficulty, the necessary funds for
this equipment had been raised, we had decided that the best
thing for our purpose was one of the small captive balloons used
by the army for lifting a single observer.

Thanks to the sympathy of the War Office we had been
enabled to purchase a complete equipment of this description,
consisting of two balloons, which, when neatly folded, occupied
very little space, and a quantity of hydrogen gas, carried in
steel cylinders at high pressure, which occupied a great deal.
Indeed, it had been a great problem where in our small ship
to stow these cylinders, of which there were more than fifty,
containing something over three fills for the balloon, and it
was only by placing them on top of the deck-houses and by
utilising every other spare space about the deck that we had
managed to solve it.

And as it was of little use to carry such a costly oufit with-
out a knowledge of how to employ it, before leaving England
I had taken advantage of the kind suggestion of the chief of
the ballooning department at Aldershot, Colonel Templer,
R.E., and had sent two officers and three men to receive some
instruction at his hands.

I now found that although officers and men had
regarded their short course as a most excellent diversion,
they had picked up most of the wrinkles and had learnt
to proceed about their work in the most business-Hke
manner.

First a large sail-cloth was spread on the snow, and a
number of cylinders carried out and placed near by. Then
the balloon was taken out with tender care, laid on the sail-
cloth and connected to the cylinders with many small pipes.
As the gas gradually inflated the empty case the sticky folds
were carefully straightened out until the time came for the
process of ' crowning ' the balloon, when the gradually filling

I902] BALLOON ASCENT 147

carcase was centralised and covered with its net, well weighted
with sandbags.

The contents of cylinder after cylinder were added, until
gradually our balloon became a thing of life swaying about in
the gentle breeze; but the temperature was down to 16°, and
owing to the contraction of the gas wrinkles were still visible
on its surface after it had absorbed its correct allowance of
sixteen cylinders containing 500 cubic feet apiece, and it was
not until we had brought out and emptied three additional
ones that its name ' Eva ' could be read on a smooth, un-
wrinkled surface.

The honour of being the first aeronaut to make an ascent
in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps somewhat selfishly, I chose
for myself, and I may further confess that in so doing I was
contemplating the first ascent I had made in any region, and
as I swayed about in what appeared a very inadequate basket
and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures below I
felt some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.

Meanwhile the balloon continued to rise as the wire rope
attached to it was eased, until at a height of about 500 feet it
was brought to rest by the weight of the rope ; I heard the
word ' sand ' borne up from below and remembered the bags
at my feet ; the correct way to obtain greater buoyancy would
have been gradually to empty these over the side of the car,
but with thoughtless inexperience I seized them wholesale and
flung them out, with the result that the ' Eva ' shot up sud-
denly, and as the rope tightened commenced to oscillate in a
manner that was not at all pleasing. Then, as the rope was
slackened I again ascended, but, alas ! only to be again checked
by the weight of rope at something under 800 feet. Our wire
rope was evidently too heavy to allow greater altitude, and the
only lighter one we possessed seemed not quite within the
bounds of safety should the wind increase.

But, as it was, my view was very extended, and prob-
ably afforded as much information as would have been
obtained in a loftier position. The following I take from my
diary :

148 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

' Here the nature of the barrier surface towards the south
could be seen well. South of the rising slope ahead of the
ship I had expected to see a continuous level plain, but to my
surprise found that the plain continued in a series of long un-
dulations running approximately east and west, or parallel to
the barrier edge ; the first two undulations could be distinctly
seen, each wave occupying a space of two or three miles, but
beyond that, the existence of further waves was only indicated
by alternate light and shadow, growing fainter in the distance.
In the far south a bank of cloud had all the appearance of
high land, but such indications are now too well known not to
be received with caution, and even as I looked through my
glasses, faint changes in outline were perceptible. Far over the
snow expanse a small black dot represented our sledge party ;
they must have been nearly eight miles away, and their visi-
bility shows how easily a contrast can be seen on the
monotonous grey of the snow.'

When I again descended to the plain, Shackleton took my
place, armed with a camera. I had hoped that in the afternoon
other officers and men would have been able to ascend, and
especially our engineer, Mr. Skelton, and those of his depart-
ment who had so successfully inflated the balloon, but the
wind was gradually increasing, and our captive began to sway
about and tug so persistently at its moorings that it became
necessary to deflate it.

The sight of so many seals on the previous evening had
reminded us that our winter stock was to be thought of, and
whilst ballooning operations were in progress, the majority of
our people had been despatched once more on a murderous
errand. The work of killing and skinning was now performed
with greater dexterity, but the labour of transporting the
carcases to the ship was found to be very great, and it was late
in the day before it was accomplished and all hands tumbled
aboard dead tired.

Meanwhile our sledge party had returned. Armitage
reported that he had crossed two undulations before camping
for the night, and in the morning had left his camp, and

I902] A NIGHT ON THE BARRIER 149

pushing ahead on ski had crossed two further ones. Their
temperature during the night had fallen to 0°, whilst at the
ship it was + 4° ; but as six people slept in a tent with bare
accommodation for three, instead of suffering from the cold,
one or two members had found the quarters so close that
during the night they had extricated themselves from the
general mass, preferring to spend the remaining hours in the
open. It was noted for future guidance that these members
reported most unfavourably on the snoring capabilities of the
others.

Curiously enough this party was able to report that the
undulations were not gradual as we had supposed on seeing
them from the balloon, but that the crest of each wave was
flattened into a long plateau from which the descent into the
succeeding valley was comparatively sharp. Rather than
crossing a series of undulations, the party had appeared to be
travelling on a plain intersected by broad valleys, the general
depth of which as measured by aneroid was 120 feet. The
actual distances travelled were difficult to guess. At this time
we were very prone to exaggerate our walks, and it was not
until we came actually to measure them later on that we
appreciated how slowly we travelled on snowy surfaces. One
thing was certain, however ; the waves were by no means
regular in extent, nor the slopes regular in inclination. At
7.30 in the evening we cast ofif from the ice and put out to sea,
having no desire to spend another night on the look-out for
icebergs. During the night the wind carried a heavy drift off
the barrier, and covered the rigging with a thick rime, giving
the ship a very wintry appearance. We now shaped course
directly for Victoria Land, having no longer an object in
following the irregularities of the barrier. On the following
day, February 5, the wind came fair, and we were able to
make sail and so effect better progress.

On the 6th we sighted a large number of icebergs, and
suddenly recognised one which had been seen and sketched
on January 25 on our passage to the eastward. It was a
curious, dilapidated berg, shaped somewhat like a ship, and

t5o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

had one tall column in the centre which one might liken to a
dissipated funnel ; we had consequently called it the ' Belleisle '
berg, in recollection of the woe-begone appearance of the
ironclad of that name after she had served as target to a more
modern battleship.

We were naturally eager to find out how far this berg had
travelled in the interval, and were most surprised to learn that
now after twelve days it had only drifted seventy miles to the
westward, an average of six miles a day. As I have pointed
out, the ship experienced a strong westerly set when cruising
along the barrier, and there can be no doubt that the pack-ice
and smaller bergs are carried along by this at a far greater
speed than is represented by the above figures ; one can only
suppose that the current experienced was merely a surface
current, and that the larger bergs are influenced by the deeper
water which is not moving so rapidly. Possibly also the
current in the surface waters, like those in McMurdo Sound,
are seasonal and only follow a seasonal prevalence of easterly
winds. At this time easterly winds were certainly prevalent,
but there seems some reason to doubt whether they are so at
all seasons.

On our return along the barrier we had experienced much
lower temperature than on the outward journey, and as this
strongly suggested an early closing of the Victoria Land har-
bours we were anxious to delay our western journey as little as
possible. In some alarm lest we were already over-late, we
were anything but reassured when on the morning of the 7th
the temperature fell to +2° and we were enveloped in a thick
fog of ice-crystals. We could only console ourselves by reflect-
ing that these exceptionally cold temperatures were produced
by a wind from off the great snow-plains of the barrier, where
probably at no time of the year were the temperatures other
than severe.

Early on the 7th we caught glimpses of the land through
the patchy fog, and now, being under sail alone, we were
obliged to haul to the north to give it a wide berth. The icy
fog had so stiffened the ropes and sails, and had made the

fca^:ls.ja

ISee n. 114.

NUNATAK ' OF ROOK NEAR THE TABLE RANGES.

THE ' BELLEISLE ' BERG.

1902] RETURN TO VICTORIA LAND 151

decks so slippery, that it was only with difficulty we could
brace round the yards, and the men, who had frequently to
work with bare hands, suffered much from frozen fingers before
we had settled down to the new course. The wind dropping
later, we were obliged to get up steam, and soon after to furl
sails, but by this time the fog had cleared, and we could see
clearly the massive outlines of Terror and Erebus. In the
evening we rounded Cape Bird, but in such repeated and
heavy snowstorms that frequently we could not see the bow-
sorit from the bridge, and were forced to stop and wait for the
clearer intervals. The temperature, however, had risen nearly
20° and the air felt mild and soft in comparison with that
which we had lately experienced. By the morning of the 8th
we were once more in McMurdo Sound ; a south-easterly
wind and a falling temperature were gradually clearing the
skies and revealing the same magnificent scene of mountain
and glacier on which we had so recently gazed.

The heavy pack which had obstructed us before seemed
now to have vanished, and as we eagerly scanned the coast of
the mainland our hopes rose high that we should find some
sheltered nook in this far south region in which the 'Dis-
covery ' might safely brave the rigours of the coming winter,
and remain securely embedded whilst our sledge-parties,
already beyond the limits of the known, strove to solve the
mysteries of the vast new world which would then lie on every
side.

152 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

CHAPTER VI

FINDING WINTER QUARTERS : A FATAL ACCIDENT

In McMurdo Sound — A Glacier Tongue — Landing South of Erebus —
Selection of Winter Quarters — Prospects — Difficulty in Maintaining our
Station — Erection of Huts— Amusements— A Trip to White Island —
Sledge Party to the Cape Crozier Record— Accident to Returning Sledge
Party — Fatal Result to poor Vince — Results of Search Parties— Frost-
bites— Wonderful Escape of Hare — Visit to Danger Slope.

Beholde I see the haven near at hand
To which I mean my wearie course to bend ;
Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land
The which afore is fairly to be ken'd.

Spenser : Faerie Queene.

In remembering the extraordinary distinctness with which we
had been able to see distant mountains in fine weather, owing
to the clearness of the atmosphere, the reader may have been
led to suppose that under these conditions the * crow's-nest '
of the ' Discovery ' would have commanded a very extensive
view of the sea surface. This was by no means the case :
unless indicated by an ice-blink, the presence of pack could
never be detected at more than four or five miles even from
that elevated position, and it was often our lot to be steaming
towards an apparently open sea, and in less than an hour to
find ourselves surrounded by ice-floes. Similarly, it was not
possible when steering through the pack to see the open-water
leads, or to extend the prospective track to a greater distance
than two or three miles.

It can therefore be understood that although on the morning
of February 8 we were steaming across McMurdo Sound in

1902] IN McMURDO SOUND 153

open water, and could clearly see the high mountains on each
side, we could not see more than a very limited portion of the
extensive surface of the Sound, nor tell when we might again
find ourselves obstructed by masses of pack-ice.

On January 21 we had been foiled in an attempt to follow
closely the coast of Victoria Land to the south of Granite
Harbour, and especially we had been unable to examine a spot
where the configuration of the rocky cliffs gave promise of
a second and more southerly harbour for our wintering.

We now headed directly for this spot, and my diary records
the proceedings of the day as follows :

' . . . On this occasion we got within eight miles before
meeting with the same slabs of pack-ice which caused us so
much trouble before. On closer approach, the deep valley
between the bluff headlands turned out to be partially filled
with an immense glacier, and at first sight it appeared as
though very little shelter could be hoped for. Later, how-
ever, as we skirted the pack towards the south, we found that
a long ice-tongue projected partly across the entrance, and
undoubtedly good shelter could be found behind this. . . .
But now, the ice being so free to the S.E,, we pushed on in
that direction, seizing the opportunity of examining the bay,
and hoping to find quarters still further to the south.
Gradually the sky cleared, and shortly after noon the sun
shone forth and the clouds rolled away from the hills, leaving
us in possession of a magnificent scene. To the left was
Erebus puffing forth light clouds of vapour, and, slowly
opening to the south of it, the clear outline of Terror.
The slopes of Erebus ran gradually down into the bay,
almost completely snow-covered, but here and there an
ink-black rock jutted into the sea and gave definition to
the hazy coastline. The very high mountain which had
been so conspicuous behind our harbour now passed to the
left of it, and extended itself into a range exhibiting three
magnificent peaks. . . . Some thirty degrees from this our
former cone mountain ' (afterwards Mount Discovery) ' stood
out, impressively isolated; many declared it to be also an

154 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

active volcano. The western coastline, after leaving the ice-
foot protecting our new harbour, runs back into a deep bay,
the southern horn of which touches the slopes of the cone
mountain ; ranges of comparatively low foothills stand behind
the inner part of the bay, and five or six islets in the bay form
a strong contrast to the snow behind. Another low range of
hills flanks the cone mountain on the left, and separated from
these by a long and barely perceptible snow bank is yet another
low range. This snow bank is due south, and over it in the
dim distance the faint outline of very distant hills can be seen.
But from the left extremity of the last range to the long cape
which bounds the slopes of Erebus, nothing could be seen ;
so with renewed hope of finding a strait we skirted the pack in
this direction.

' During the forenoon and afternoon we passed through
extensive sheets of young ice two or three inches in thickness,
and all day a school of grampus (^Orca gladiator, killer whale)
were playing about the ship, often coming within a few feet
of the side and scattering the young ice as they rose to breathe.
Early in the afternoon we came suddenly on a low foot of
fast glacier- ice, which appears to be the extremity of a long
tongue running for many miles out of the bay to the right
of the cone mountain. Its formation is most peculiar. The
surface is covered with numerous spiky pinnacles and ridges
many feet in height ; I can think of no less fanciful resem-
blance than to compare them to tombstones in a cemetery.

' A boat was got out to examine it, and we found that the
surface of the ice between the pinnacles was covered with
a thick deposit of volcanic sand, amongst which were evidences
of numerous water-courses now dried up ; evidently the heat
absorbed by the sand has melted these channels, leaving the
pinnacles between. It was by no means easy to clamber over
this confusion of ice and rubble, and it would be quite out
of the question to drag a sledge through it ; it is to be hoped,
therefore, that we do not meet many such obstructions on our
journeys. A few hundred yards from the edge, the winding
of the water-channels had produced some very beautiful, as

1902] A GLACIER TONGUE 155

well as curious, effects. In places the rush of the stream had
undercut the channel till the bank overhung its base by many
feet, leaving a deep cave beneath, in which the intensest shades
of blue could be observed, whilst from the overlapping edge
hung a fringe of sparkling icicles ; in others a platform of
stones and rubble stood poised on a slender shaft of ice, high
above the bed of the stream ; here the water had run placidly
over a smooth, polished ice-floor, and there its surface had
been broken as it glided over a bank of rounded boulders.
From the ship it had seemed that the disturbed ice would
not rise more than breast-high as one stood amongst it, but
as one descended into the courses of these streams the fan-
tastically twisted pinnacles of ice rose high above one's head
and completely shut out all view of the ship and the moun-
tainous scene beyond.

' We found on the ice the skeleton of a fish eighteen inches
in length, probably carried here by a seal ; it is interesting to
find that fishes of such size exist in these cold seas. Off the
edge of the ice we got a sounding in ninety- five fathoms, and
whilst the ship was being swung for her compasses, a small
dredge produced a fairly rich haul of animals from the bottom.
Our biologist, Hodgson, being on the sick list with a chill, we
proceeded to make this catch with all possible secrecy, hoping
to reward him with the result ; but, unfortunately, the secret
leaked out, and, zeal overcoming caution, our sick man was
soon in the thick of it, with openly expressed scorn for our
amateurish efforts ; entreaties had to be extended to commands
before, for his own sake, he could be driven back into the
milder atmosphere below,

' Rounding this tongue of ice we found our further progress
to the south barred by a sheet of fast sea-ice, and skirting along
the edge of this, we now find ourselves steering almost due
east, and heading towards the long ridge of small uncovered
hills which extends from the southern slopes of Erebus, and
ends in an abrupt and conspicuous cape which we hope will
point us yet further south.'

It was 8 P.M. before we found that the ice edge which we

156 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

had been skirting extended continuously to this cape, and
hopes of an open strait vanished ; but we continued our course
until at ten we were close to the black, bare volcanic land of
the cape. We made for a small rocky promontory without
getting soundings with our hand lead, until our bows gently
grounded on a bank within a few yards of the shore ; backing
off from this we found deep water alongside the ice-foot in the
small bay on its northern side, and here we secured the ship
with our ice-anchors. Later I write :

' We have now to consider the possibility of making this
part of the bay our winter quarters. From the point of view
of travelling, no part could be more seemingly excellent ; to
the S.S.E. as far as the eye can reach, all is smooth and even,
and indeed everything points to a continuation of the Great
Barrier in this direction. We should be within easy distance
for exploration of the mainland, and apparently should have
little difficulty in effecting a land communication with our post
office at Cape Crozier. There are no signs of pressure in the
ice ; on the other hand, the shelter from wind is but meagre,
and one can anticipate intense cold and howling gales. On
the whole to-night I feel like staying where we are.'

It is interesting to recall our first impressions of a region
which we were destined to know so well, and to observe that
in a general sense these impressions were correct ; in the south
only the outlook seemed mysterious, and evidently we did not
realise that the southern ranges of hills were detached islands
surrounded by a practically level ice-sheet, but, misled by
refraction, still imagined them to be connected by com-
paratively high snow-covered ridges.

On the 9th, the day following our arrival, we set out to
explore our immediate surroundings ; the ship, as I have
mentioned, lay on the north side of a small promontory. Our
first discovery was that there was an excellent little bay on the
south side. The sea-ice had not yet broken away in this bay,
but it was evident that it would only be a matter of a few days
before it did so, as the ice was cracked in all directions. Here,
then, was a promising spot in which to establish ourselves for

1902] SELECTION OF WINTER QUARTERS 157

the winter ; my determination to remain in this region was
much strengthened, and I wrote :

' The small bay completes the shelter from pressure in all
directions from S.S.E. to W.N.W., and the remaining space
faces the main coastline, from which pressure cannot be
expected ; the water is shallow enough to prevent danger from
drifting icebergs ; little difficulty will be found in securing the
ship or in finding sheltered spots for the huts within easy
reach of the ship. . . . This afternoon the ship broke away
from her ice-anchors, leaving a number of officers and men on
shore, but before we had drifted far, steam was raised and we
secured to the sea-ice on the south side of the promontory.
It seems very difficult to get a good grip with our ice-anchors,
and we have now bedded them well, and have supplemented
them with the small kedge buried in the snow ; our position is
not altogether satisfactory, as there is a slight swell and the
ship bumps occasionally against the ice-foot. There is
apparently only a small rise and fall of tide, I think not more
than twelve or eighteen inches. After tea I went for a long
walk with Skelton ; we struck out over the sea-ice to round
the cape, starting on ski, but quickly abandoning them as the
snow was hard enough to walk on and too smooth for the ski
to grip properly. We found a curious water-hole off the cape,
surrounded for a long distance by thin ice which we only
discovered when it began to bend ominously under us and we
were obliged to separate very rapidly and retire in different
directions.' This thin sheet and the open water in the midst
of solid sea-ice puzzled us greatly, and it was not until the
following year that we discovered that thick winter-ice is
actually melted through in the summer where the current
flows over a shallow bank. ' We quickly left this doubtful
spot, and, skirting further round, headed for a strait which we
can now see surrounds Erebus and Terror, placing them on an
island. A clear, smooth snow plain can be seen to the further
ridge of Terror, the ridge which lies close to Cape Crozier,
where the barrier edge meets the land. The presence of an
inky-water sky confirms the sea beyond. From the ridge to

158 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

the right through 120° of arc naught can be seen but the plain
level white surface of the Great Barrier. As we mounted a
pass in the hills on our return to the ship, we could see these
things still more distinctly.

'The ice south of the cape was evidently comparatively
thin sea-ice, and we could rejoice in beholding thousands of
seals scattered over the white surface — a promising sign that
we shall have no lack of these animals in the coming winter.
The ridge of hills under which we shelter is apparently a spur
extending from the southern slopes of Erebus.

' To-night there have been most excited arguments.
Everybody seems to have been in a different direction, and
either, as one would imagine, has seen quite a different scene,
or else prefers to describe things in his own language. At
any rate, all agree in the insularity of Erebus and the final
decease of the Parry Mountains ; for the rest, there is nothing
that we shall not be able to investigate more definitely at a
later date.'

As I have mentioned, in seeking our winter quarters on the
coast of Victoria Land so early in February we had been firmly
under the impression that the season was closing in, and that
the harbours and inlets would shortly be frozen over. With no
previous experience to guide us, our opinion could only be
based on the very severe and unseasonable conditions which
we had met with to the east. But now to our astonishment we
could see no sign of a speedy freezing of the bay : the summer
seemed to have taken a new lease, and for several weeks the
fast sea-ice continued to break silently and to pass quietly
away to the north in large floes.

Meanwhile our situation was surrounded with thorny diffi-
culties. Although the ice broke farther afield, it refused to
move out of the small bay on which we had set our eyes, and
we were forced to cling to the outskirts of the bay with our
ice-anchors, in depths that were too great to admit of the
larger anchors being dropped to the bottom. The weather
changed frequently and rapidly, and often after the ship had
lain quietly for several hours a sudden squall or snowstorm

1902] A DIFFICULT ANCHORAGE 159

would fling her back on her securing ropes, uprooting the ice-
anchors and uhimately sending her adrift. Whilst such possi-
bilities remained, in spite of the most earnest wish to save
coal it was necessary to retain facilities for getting up steam at
short notice, and the constant work of securing and re-securing
the ship was a most harassing addition to the men's work.

At other times the tide and swell would carry the ship into
awkward positions with regard to the ice-foot or the shallow
bank which lay immediately off it. On February 10 I wrote :
' . . . Later, owing to current, the ship forged ahead and
forced herself into the fast ice ; this brought the bow into
deeper water, but the stern swung into the ice-foot and bumped
a good deal ; in this position she has made a bed for herself,
and we cannot haul her out'

'■February 11. — . . . The ship bumped heavily during the
night and worked herself into a very uncomfortable position,
her stern obliquely against the ice-foot, and her bow jammed
into the thick fast ice. In the morning we made some attempt
to haul her stern out, but only succeeded in carrying away a
hawser. In the afternoon all hands were turned on to free
her, a boiler was run down, balloon cylinders and other weights
transported forward, and a party was set to free the ice at the
fore-foot. The kedge anchor was buried fast in the floe, and
a large hawser brought from it through the stern to the winch.
At seven, when we could get a good strain on the hawser, the
ship was gradually freed from her awkward position.'

By the 12th we had managed to get an anchor on the
bottom, but the stern had been hauled in to assist the work on
shore. 'This morning it blew fresh from the E.S.E. directly
over the hills, and, with an off-setting tide and some swell, we
began to drag our ice-anchors, the two kedges. For an hour
in heavy snowdrift we were endeavouring to check the drag by
backing the anchors, but to no avail ; at last both dragged out,
when there was only just sufficient time to get all hands on
board before the ship drifted off.'

In spite of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position,
however, steady progress was made with the work on shore.

i6o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

which consisted mainly in erecting the various huts which we
had brought with us in pieces. The main hut had been
brought from Australia, and was, in fact, a fairly spacious
bungalow of a design used by the outlying settlers in that
country. The floor occupied a space of about thirty-six feet
square, but the over-hanging eaves of the pyramidal roof rested
on supports some four feet beyond the sides, surrounding the
hut with a covered verandah. The interior space was curtailed
by the complete double lining, and numerous partitions were
provided to suit the requirements of the occupants. But of
these partitions only one was erected, to cut off a small portion
of one side, and the larger part which remained formed a
really spacious apartment.

It had been originally intended that the ' Discovery ' should
not attempt to winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small
party and turn northward before the season closed ; the hut
had been provided for this party and carried south under the
impression that circumstances might yet force the adoption of
such a plan. Having discovered a spot in which we felt con-
fident the ' Discovery ' could winter with safety, the living-hut
was no longer of vital miportance ; but, even retaining the
ship as a home, there were still many useful purposes to which
a large hut might be adapted. It was obvious that some sort
of shelter must be made on shore before exploring parties
could be sent away with safety, as we felt that at any time a
heavy gale might drive the ship off her station for several days,
if not altogether. With the hut erected and provisioned, there
need be no anxiety for a detached party in such circumstances.
Later on, too, we hoped that the large room would come in
useful as a workshop or as a playroom, or for any purpose
which might tend to relieve the congestion of the ship.

We found, however, that its erection was no light task, as
all the main and verandah supports were designed to be sunk
three or four feet in the ground. We soon found a convenient
site close to the ship on a small bare plateau of volcanic
rubble, but an inch or two below the surface the soil was
frozen hard, and many an hour was spent with pick, shovel,

1902] ERECTION OF HUTS i6i

and crowbar before the solid supports were erected and our
able carpenter could get to work on the frame.

In addition to the main hut, and of greater importance,
were the two small huts which we had brought for our magnetic
instruments. These consisted of a light skeleton framework
of wood covered with sheets of asbestos. The numerous parts
were of course numbered, and there would have been no great
difficulty in putting them together had it not been that the
wood was badly warped, so that none of the joints would fit
without a great deal of persuasion from the carpenter. One
of these huts was designed to hold instruments which should
keep a continuous record of the change of the magnetic ele-
ments on a photographic drum, and it was highly desirable
that the record should be commenced as soon as possible.

As may be imagined, with so much work going on on
shore and the frequent necessity of looking after the ship, our
time was well occupied. But life was not all work, and we
found plenty of interest and amusement in our surroundings,
as well as relaxation of a more usual character, as the following
extracts from my diary will show :

'After working hours, all hands generally muster on the
floe for football. There is plenty of room for a full-sized
ground in the bay, and the snow is just hard enough to make
a good surface.'

'■February 13. — We hauled the stern into the ice-foot in
the morning and carried on hut-building operations. It was
calm and clear, and we made good progress. We tried a team
of dogs to tow the light sledge up the hill with pieces of the
small huts. Some pulled well, but others are evidently young
and untrained ; some were extremely timid and grovelled at
the least attempt to drive them, others fought whenever and
wherever they could. It was not rapid, but eventually all the
pieces were got up the hill. . . . Repeated walks are taken to
the hill-tops in the immediate vicinity, and eyes are turned
towards the south— the land of promise. Many are the argu-
ments as to what lies in the misty distance, and as to what
obstacles the spring journeys will bring to light. . The
ym-. I. M

i62 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

officers played the men at football to-night, and won by a goal,
but the wind rather spoilt the fun. It is now blowing fresh
from the usual E.S.E. direction. Two bergs were seen moving
up the bay. This is interesting as showing that the bottom
waters must be moving in.

'■February 14. — . . . We have landed all the dogs, and
their kennels are ranged over the hillside below the huts.
They complain bitterly, but they are a good riddance from the
deck, which is again assuming some appearance of cleanliness.
... It is surprising what a number of things have to be done,
and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The
hut-building is slow work, and much of our time has been
taken in securing the ship ; an annoyingly large number of
hours have to be devoted to pumping her out ; the pumps get
frozen and have to be opened up and thawed out with a blow-
lamp. Much work is before us when the huts are up : we
must land a store of provisions and a boat for emergencies ;
then there are the instruments to be seen to, more seals to be
killed for the winter, arrangements made for fresh-water ice,
sledges and tents to be prepared, and a hundred-and-one
details to be attended to.

' The sun is now very near dipping at midnight, and will
soon give us an appreciable night. In the morning and
evening it is therefore low, and gives the effect of sunset or
sunrise for many hours together. The scene is wonderfully
beautiful at such times ; the most characteristic feature is a
soft pink light, that tinges the snow-slopes and ice-foot and
fades into the purple outline of the distant mountains. Here
and there a high peak is radiantly gilded by a shaft of sun-
light.

' Names have been given to the various landmarks in our
vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be called "Cape
Armitage," after our excellent navigator. The sharp hill
above it is to be " Observation Hill " ; it is 750 feet high, and
should make an excellent look-out station for observing the
going and coming sledge-parties. Next comes the " Gap,"
through which we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively

1902] NOMENCLATURE 163

low level. North of the " Gap " are " Crater Heights," and
the higher volcanic peak beyond is to be " Crater Hill " ; it is
1,050 feet in height. Our protecting promontory is to be
" Hut Point," with "Arrival Bay" on the north and "Winter
Quarter Bay " on the south ; above " Arrival Bay " are the
" Arrival Heights," which continue with breaks for about three
miles to a long snow-slope, beyond which rises the most
conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a high precipitous-
sided rock with a flat top, which has been dubbed " Castle
Rock "; it is 1,350 feet in height.

' In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is
possible to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise,
and find it increases in interest as we make rapid strides
towards maintaining our stability. Now that we are able to
turn, we can start from several hundred feet up the hillside
and come down on an incline for half a mile or more before
we reach the sea-ice. It is most exhilarating exercise, and
figure after figure can be seen flying down the hillside, all
struggling hard to keep their balance, but generally failing
at some critical turn, and coming an " awful purler " to the
amusement of the others.'

On February 16 our football and general athletic ground
broke away, leaving only a small corner of the bay filled with
ice, and skiing became a still more popular amusement.
Some days later I find : ' The party of officers who disport
themselves on ski is getting more ambitious, and to-day we
started from a much higher place. The course started with
a quick slope of 120 feet in height, covered with soft snow,
on which a tremendous pace was acquired ; a sudden lessening
in the inclination shot one out on rough hard snow, which
not only had to be taken at the same pace, but involved a
double turn to left and right, then a slightly milder slope
slackened the pace to a sharp corner, where a turn of 120°
had to be made before one plunged down the final slope to
the sea-ice. One or two of us got down safely, but it was
generally touch-and-go at the corners. Skelton is by far the best
of the officers, though pusbibly some of the men run him close.

M 2

1 64 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

'■February 17. — The forenoon was gloriously fine. In a
dead calm the sun shone in a cloudless sky ; the western
mountains were very distinct, but the foreshore was raised and
exaggerated by strong mirage. The work is now so far ahead
on our huts that we can contemplate some sledge parties.
Barne and Shackleton tossed a coin as to who should take
the first, and the latter won. Wilson and Ferrar will accom-
pany him. The ice has broken away so far round the corner
that I have told them they must take a pram until they get
beyond the sea-ice ; it will be a heavy drag, but I don't
expect they will have to drag it far. All three are very busy
making preparations.

' All that remained of the sea-ice in our bay moved out
very quietly this morning, nearly taking away Hodgson, who
was fishing on the floe with a tow-net, quite unconscious of
what was happening until he looked up and saw his retreat
cut off. There was quite an excitement in rescuing him.
The wind sprang up again suddenly in the afternoon ; we
seem fated not to be long without it. It came sweeping down
the gullies in bitter gusts. I went up the hill for exercise,
and was glad to turn back and sail home.

' Late this evening Walker suddenly appeared, reporting
that Ford had met with an accident on the eastern slope of
the Gap and needed assistance. It appeared that Ford,
Buckridge, and Walker had been " running " the slope on ski
in a rather bad light, and that Ford, whose sight is not good,
had failed to see a steep drop from the ice-foot and had fallen
over it, with the result that his leg had caught in the tide
crack and was injured. A party were soon away with a sledge
on which they brought back the invalid, the first to occupy
our small sick berth. The doctors found that there was a
simple fracture, which, though not a very serious matter, will
rob us of our ship's steward for some weeks.' The fracture
healed with remarkable rapidity, and in less than six weeks
Ford was able to resume his duties.

'■February 18. — It blew hard from the S.E. this morning,
but about eight the wind dropped, and during the rest of the

1902] THE DOGS AND THE WHIP 165

working hours it was quite calm and we were able to push
ahead with the huts.

' As the ice has broken away around the cape, the sledge
party have had stiff work in dragging their sledge and pram
over the " Gap " ; they will start fair from that side to-morrow.
' There have been arguments lately as to the necessity of a
whip in driving dogs, and to-day the two keenest controver-
sialists, Armitage and Bernacchi, v^ho are respectively for and
against coercive methods, had a competition. They selected
their own teams, and, whether by accident or design,
Armitage selected all the fighting element, whilst Bernacchi's
team were mostly the younger and timider dogs. At first
neither team could be got to start at all ; there was a wild
confusion of twisted traces and some exciting fights ; but
eventually, amidst the cheers of the onlookers, Bernacchi
succeeded in coaxing his animals into a trot, from which they
broke into a gallop, and, heading up the steep snow-slope, left
the driver breathless behind. Whilst this was scarcely the
exhibition of control that had been intended, the other team
had refused to trot at all, and the honours of the day were of
necessity given to the advocate of gentle persuasion.

' It is surprising how suddenly the wind rises and drops
here. At 6.30 to-night it came on to blow from the north,
and, without warning, in the space of a few minutes a strong
breeze was blowing. The hawser securing our stern to the
ice-foot parted, the ship swung off, and we were obliged to
lower a boat in haste to pick up the men who had stayed to
secure the half-built hut. By the time they were on board, it
was blowing a gale ; we had good shelter from Hut Point, but
the swell got up very quickly, and there was soon a consider-
able commotion in our small bay. ... At midnight the wind
dropped as suddenly as it had risen, and we have now to be
prepared for being carried against the ice-foot, which with this
swell would probably mean some heavy bumps.' On the
following day the wind came as suddenly from the south, and
we bumped so heavily on the ice-foot that I thought it
advisable to get up steam.

i66 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

' Later the wind increased to force 8, and we had a scare
with a mass of ice bearing straight into the bay. At the last
moment it diverted its course and passed harmlessly round
the point. . . .' From such extracts as the above it will be
seen that it is no easy matter to secure a peaceful anchorage
on the Antarctic coastline.

^February 20. — We have had the first continuous bright
windless day since we arrived. The glass was steady at 29.4,
the sun shone brightly, and although the temperature did not
rise above 18° it was pleasant to loll about in the sun during
the dinner hour, when we smoked our pipes in great comfort,
sitting on pieces of the hut which are not yet fixed. The dogs
are now allowed to run loose, so many at a time ; there is
much less fighting than would be expected. They are losing
their coats, I suppose at about the time they would shed them
in the north in preparation for summer, but it seems an
awkward look-out when they ought to be preparing for winter.
We took advantage of the fine evening to re-secure the ship.
I let go two anchors in the bay and middled, then veered both
cables till we could just bring her stern up to the ice-foot for
landing our gear. She ought to lie much more comfortably
now.' On the 21st our energetic first lieutenant, Royds,
had a very narrow shave. Late at night, when everyone
else was below, he jumped on to a grating which had been
placed over the side and carelessly secured ; the lashing
slipped, and the next moment he was in the water with
nothing to hold on by or to assist him in climbing out ; with
the water at 29° and the air at zero he realised that there was
no time to be wasted if he was to reach the deck again safe
and sound, and that the chance of his being heard was so
small, he would only be wasting his breath by attempting to
shout. In this serious position he luckily remembered that a
rope ladder had been left over the stern, and husbanding his
strength he swam for it. It could have been no light matter
climbing that ladder under such freezing conditions, but
fortunately he managed to do it, and to swing himself over the
side. The first we knew of the accident was when he

I902] A TRIP TO WHITE ISLAND 167

appeared in the wardroom with his clothes dripping and his
teeth chattering.

On the 22 nd our small reconnoitring sledge party returned.
After leaving on the 19th they had made directly south towards
the White Island, eventually reached it, and climbed one of
the nearer volcanic peaks. They were so naturally bubbling
over with their experiences that it was some time before we
could get answers to our eager questions. From the summit
of their peak, for which the aneroid gave a height of 2,700 feet,
they had seen the great snow plain of the barrier still stretch-
ing without limit through east and south-east to south, and
curling a long white arm around the island on which they
stood. To the west the same level sea of snow seemed to run
deep into the fretted coastline, and again they could see it
beyond the high cape which limited our view from the ship.
In the dim distance south of our lofty western ranges more
high snow-covered peaks appeared. But of the roads it was
more difficult to speak ; they had crossed ridges and hum-
mocks and crevasses, and had come to see that these things
did not advertise themselves afar, but lay hidden in un-
expected places under the deceptive smoothness of the plain.
It looked as though the best road would lie to the east of the
island and well clear of it, but our travellers shook their heads
over the bright prospect of a smooth highway, in visions of
which many had indulged up to this time.

Altogether we felt that our outlook on affairs was consider-
ably enlarged by this small journey, and we stopped up late as
we discussed its bearings and listened for the first time to the
woes of the inexperienced sledger. Although the temperature
had not been severe, our travellers had nearly got into serious
trouble by continuing their march in a snowstorm. They
found themselves so exhausted when they did stop to camp
that they were repeatedly frost-bitten. They could only get
their tent up with great difficulty, and then followed all sorts of
troubles with the novel cooking apparatus. It is strange now
to look back on these first essays at sledging, and to see how
terribly hampered we were by want of experience. Perhaps

i68 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Feb.

the most curious note I have of the report of these three is to
the effect that in their opinion our pemmican wouldn't do at
all. It was far too rich, they said, and when made into soup
it was so greasy that none of them could touch it. Our
pemmican contained 60 per cent, of lard, but after knowing
how it tasted to a true sledging appetite and seeing the
manner in which it was scraped out of the cooking pots in
later times, it needs such a reminder as this to recall that it
might not be always grateful to a more civilised taste.

This sledge party did something to dispel curious illusions
which existed amongst us with regard to distances. On
certain days every detail of our surroundings was so clear that
it was impossible to persuade oneself that much on which we
looked was in the far distance. Shortly after our arrival, for
instance, two of our company had started off with the serious
intention of taking an afternoon walk around this very ' White
Island,' and it was only after they had walked for some hours
without noticing any appreciable change in the appearance of
the island that they were convinced they had undertaken a
task beyond their powers. On another occasion two ofificers
discussed the advisability of making a day's excursion to the
top of Mount Erebus and back.

When we had learnt to discount the deceptive appearance
of nearness, many of us were inclined to go to the opposite
extreme, and to imagine our distances much greater and our
mountains much more exalted than they really were. One
was led to this by an exaggerated conception of the distance
one could walk in a given time. It was not until instruments
and observations had shed the cold light of reason on our
sledge marches that we came to know that two miles an hour
is very good going on a soft snow surface.

Though our work was much impeded by the cutting winds,
we continued to make progress as the month advanced ; as
yet, however, there w^ere no signs of the sea freezing over, and
the old sea-ice, still continuing to break away, had left a large
extent of open water to the southward and eastward of Cape
Armitage. The seals had no longer a resting-place within two

1902] SLEDGE PARTY TO CAPE CROZIER 169

or three miles of the ship, and we had been forced to kill them
at this distance in providing for our winter consumption. Not
wishing to drag the carcases such a long distance until they
were required, we had left them partly buried in snow, but on
revisiting the spot somewhat later we found to our dismay that
the skua gulls had been at our cache and had wrought great
havoc. It was extraordinary to see the manner in which they
had torn the frozen flesh from the bones with their powerful
bills.

'■February 26. — . . . The main hut is roofed and the
windows placed ; there is little more to be done outside?
though the whole of the inner lining has to be put up. The
first magnetic hut is almost finished ; a good quantity of
provisions and oil has been landed, with fifteen tons of coal.
I feel we can now leave the ship without anxiety, and have
been pushing forward our arrangements for the first trip, which
I hope to lead myself. The object will be to endeavour to
reach our record at Cape Crozier over the barrier, and to leave
a fresh communication there with details of our winter
quarters.

* The snow on the " ski " slopes has become very hard and
rough, and we can no longer enjoy that exercise.

^February 27. — I went out with Barne on ski, and was
foolish enough to try to run the upper slope, which is now
covered with hard sastrugi (wind waves). As I was coming
down at a good pace, my right ski was turned by one of these,
and in falling I brought a heavy strain on my right knee, and
damaged the hamstring. I was forced to limp back and get it
bandaged.' On the following day I found my leg much
swollen, and could scarcely put foot to the ground, and to my
great annoyance, as the days went on, the improvement was so
slow that I had to abandon all idea of accompanying the
sledge party to Cape Crozier, and to content myself with
deputing the charge to Royds. I already foresaw how much
there was to be learnt if we were to do good sledging work in
the spring, and to miss such an opportunity of gaining experi-
ence was terribly trying ; however, there was nothing to be

lyo THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

done but to nurse my wounded limb and to determine that
never again would I be so rash as to run hard snow-slopes on
ski.

By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was com-
pleted. The party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz,
Skelton, and Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two
teams, each pulling a single sledge and each assisted by four
dogs. I am bound to confess that the sledges when packed
presented an appearance of which we should afterwards have
been wholly ashamed, and much the same might be said of
the clothing worn by the sledgers. But at this time our
ignorance was deplorable ; we did not know how much or
what proportions would be required as regards the food, how
to use our cookers, how to put up our tents, or even how to
put on our clothes. Not a single article of the outfit had been
tested, and amid the general ignorance that prevailed the lack
of system was painfully apparent in everything. Though each
requirement might have been remembered, all were packed in
a confused mass, and, to use a sailor's expression, ' everything
was on top and nothing handy.'

Even at this time I was conscious how much there was to
be learnt, and felt that we must buy our experience through
many a discomfort ; and on lookmg back I am only astonished
that we bought that experience so cheaply, for clearly there
were the elements of catastrophe as well as of discomfort in the
disorganised condition in which our first sledge parties left the
ship.

However, at the time few of those actively employed had
time or inclination to consider their unfitness ; all was bustle
and hurry to depart, and at length the order to march was
given and the party stepped out briskly for the steep snow-
slopes. By this time the sea-ice had broken past the eastern
slope of the ' Gap,' the peninsula could be crossed only by
chmbing the higher passes, and the sledges had to be dragged
to an altitude of nearly 800 feet before the level plain of the
barrier could be reached. It was not until the following day,
therefore, that the retreating figures of the party were lost to

I902] WIND-DIRECTION AND TEMPERATURE 171

our watchers on the hilltops, and we settled down to wait for
their return.

It was about this time that we first began to notice the
strange relation between the direction of the wind and the
temperatures we experienced in our small bay. ' With the
wind from north or south, or anywhere to the westward of
these points, the thermometer rises above 20° and the air is
soft and mild. But should an easterly wind arise — and this is
the most constant direction of our winds — the temperature falls
to zero or below, and the air is rendered more biting by fine
particles of snow blown from the hill surfaces. Last night
light airs were succeeded by a squally southerly breeze ; the
thermometer showed a maximum of 25° ; I noticed my bunk
unusually warm, and in the morning found water on the upper
deck. To the eastward is the barrier, and doubtless the cold
weather is due to air carried from its extensive surface. . . .
The northerly breeze coming from the sea would naturally be
warmed, but it is difiicult to account for the warmth of the
southerly winds, unless it is an effect of descending currents
from the higher levels. We should welcome both northerly
and southerly breezes were it not that the first brings a swell
and the last a continual prospect of being beset by drifting ice.
Of the several evils, the least is undoubtedly the cold, and
with a southerly wind especially one does not feel that our bay
affords a good protection ; luckily, so far, it has not lasted at
any time for more than a few hours, nor has it blown with any
great force. We have only experienced the lightest puffs of
air from the west, in which direction our bay affords least
protection.

' ^Ve have now got our windmill up, and it revolves merrily.
The mill regulates itself to a certain extent by its large rudder,
which causes it to face more obliquely to the wind as its force
increases, but this is only partial regulation, and with changes
in the wind there is considerable variation in the speed of the
mill. The dynamo stands on deck beneath the mill, and has
an ingenious contrivance with a sucking magnet to regulate
the current output by altering the resistance in the field

172 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

magnets. This does not work so well as one could wish, and
though the cells are gradually charging I do not like the
variations in the current which is effecting this. Dellbridge
and I have been going into the matter, but I fear the sucking
magnet will never be very satisfactory. To-night we had
electric light below for a few hours ; it made our quarters look
wonderfully bright and comfortable, and will be the greatest
boon if we can only keep it going during the winter ; but
besides the dynamo, the cells will need a lot of attention ; one
or two are already showing signs of sulphating.

' The main hut is now finished and looks quite a palatial
residence. The Eschenhagen magnetographs have been in
full swing since the term day, March i, thanks to Bernacchi's
energy ; there will be much difficulty, he thinks, in maintain-
ing an equable temperature for these instruments. I hope it
can be overcome to some extent by banking the hut with snow.

''March 9. — The young ice forms quickly when it is calm,
especially at night, but when the wind springs up it is soon
driven out.

'I was able to get about sufficiently to go rounds and
perform our short service. Without Royds and the harmonium
the hymns were a difficulty, but we chose the simplest tunes.
A calm but dull morning was succeeded by the most glorious
afternoon. The sun was warm and bright, and it was pleasant
to sit about in its rays. I was sorely tempted to try to walk
abroad, but wisdom kept me chained on board. We have
now been here a month and a day ; it is odd to think that
we expected to be frozen in on arrival, a miscalculation of
a whole month ; but what could one suppose from the evidence
we then had before us ? In addition to the records of former
expeditions to these seas, I find that the " Belgica " ceased to
move after March 4 when far to the north of us. The bay is
full of young ice and the swell has almost gone ; it appears as if
our little corner was at last to be frozen in. To-night the sun
sinks behind our western range in a sky of rosy glory, and
deep shadows fall across the frozen bay.

' March 10. — . . . Again a fine bright day, though there

1902] ACCIDENT TO CAPE CROZIER PARTY 173

was some wind in the night. My leg better, and was able to
hobble to the shore station on a tour of inspection. Quite a
number of small round sponges have been picked up on the
hillsides ; they must have been cast up on the ice-foot and
there dried, until they became so light that the wind caught
them up and whirled them to the rocky crannies above. The
men go out very regularly for exercise; they have mostly
given up their ski and have taken to tobogganing. Toboggans
are made of a pair of ski and the end of a packing case. As
many of the slopes are extremely steep, the pace is sometimes
terrific, and the least unevenness of surface inevitably causes
a capsize, when toboggan and man come whirling down in a
cloud of snow, much to the delight of the onlookers.

' The sun circles so low now that the effects of sunset are
visible for many hours, and the changes of light are very
gradual and very beautiful. As I returned from my walk at
six, the western sky bore a saffron tint, deepening to crimson
where the dark blue mountains were clearly outlined against
it ; the fleecy clouds showed dark, with bright gilded edges
where they stood against the sky, and whitish grey where they
nestled in the distant valleys. And yet now, five hours later,
though heavier cumulus clouds have spread overhead, the saffron
tint can still be seen through breaks in the cloudy mantle,
whilst the clear horizon has only turned to a richer crimson.
The beauties of the sky are reflected in deeper tone on the
patchy surface of the young ice, in which a few puffs of wind
have traced ink-black leads of open water. But it is still sun-
set, as it was five hours ago.'

Tuesday, March 11, was to be one of our blackest days in
the Antarctic, but we had little suspicion of this as the day-
light hours passed quietly, and we remained snugly in our
comfortable quarters on board the ship. Since the departure
of our sledge party the weather had been exceptionally fine ;
but we awoke on the nth to find the wind blowing from the
east ; in the afternoon it increased in strength, and the air
was filled with thick driving snow. The main part of our
outdoor work was accomplished, and as there was plenty to

174 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

be done on board we did not attempt to face the inclement
conditions outside, but sat down in comfort to our tasks with
an occasional thought for our fellows who were less happily
circumstanced. On the previous evening a report had been
brought in from the hilltop that a spot had been seen in the
distance, which was thought to be our sledge party returning.
Though we considered it rather soon for them to appear, we
did not imagine that anything could be wrong, and only
lamented for their sakes that they should be obliged to sup-
port this weather in a tent rather than with our own comfort-
able surroundings. At the worst no one suspected that they
could be anything but weather-bound and uncomfortable. It
was not until half-past eight, when it was quite dusk without,
that our tranquillity was rudely shaken by a report that four
men were walking towards the ship. The sense of trouble
was immediate, and all hastened on deck ; we could scarcely
recognise the newcomers as they climbed over the side in the
thick whirling drift, but the first disjointed sentences were
enough to show that all was amiss, and we hurried them below.
As they emerged from their thick coverings we recognised them
as Wild, Weller, Heald, and Plumley, and it was evident that
though thoroughly exhausted they were labouring under strong
excitement. In such circumstances, and from so many mouths,
it was almost impossible to get a connected tale, and it was
not until I had selected Wild, as obviously the most cool and
collected of the party, and had called him aside, that I was
able to get an idea of what had happened ; and even then I
could only get a meagre outline such as follows :

They had been sent back, he said, a party of nine, in
charge of Mr. Barne, and early in the day had reached the
crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock ; besides the
three with him now, there had been Mr. Barne, Quartley,
Evans, Hare, and Vince ; they had thought they were quite
close to the ship, and when the blizzard came on they had
left their tents and walked towards her supposed position.
They found themselves on a steep slope ; couldn't see any-
thing, but tried to keep close together ; suddenly Hare had

1902] THE SLEDGE PARTY'S STORY 175

disappeared, and a few minutes afterwards Evans went. Mr.
Barne and Quartley had left them to try to find out what had
become of Evans, and neither had come back, though they
waited. Afterwards they had gone on, and then suddenly
found themselves at the edge of a precipice with the sea
below ; Vince had shot past him over the edge. After much
trouble they had climbed back, reached some rocks, and
groped their way to the ship ; he feared all the others must
be lost ; he was sure Vince had gone. Could he guide a
search party to the scene of the accident? He thought he
could — at any rate, he would like to try.

The information was little enough ; at any rate, it was
something on which to act, and the details could be filled in
later. But meanwhile the practical common sense on board
had outstripped orders, and already warmer clothing and wind
coverings were being hurried on by all, and a sledge with a fur
sleeping-bag and medical comforts had been equipped. But
the ship could not be deserted even for such an errand as this,
and when Mr. Armitage had chosen four officers and ten men
to accompany him, it was felt that numbers had already reached
the limit of usefulness, and that others like myself must wait
in dreary inaction whilst the few laboured. Though the first
disastrous tidings had been brought to us at 8.30, it was still
before nine when the relieving party tumbled over the side
and vanished into the gloom.

It will be as well to relate now the* actual story of the
original sledge party, as we learnt it in after-times, and to
trace the steps which had led to the accident.

The party, after crossing the hills on March 4 on their
outward journey, had descended to the level ice and directed
their course into the deep bay which lies on the eastern side
of our peninsula and south of Erebus and Terror. After
crossing some ice-ridges they found fairly easy travelling for
ten miles or more, but then came to very soft snow, where at
each footstep they sank to a depth of eighteen inches or two
feet. The labour was excessive, [and; the dogs were of no
assistance, but they struggled on in hopes of coming to better

176 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

conditions. After three days Royds saw that it was useless to
continue as they were going, and that the only chance of
making progress was to use snow-shoes, but unfortunately
there were only three pairs of ski with the party. He decided,
therefore, to push on for his mission at Cape Crozier with two
officers only, and to send the remainder back in charge of
Barne. The separation took place on the 9th, and the re-
turning party, finding a somewhat easier road, were able to
retrace their steps at a more rapid pace. They came abreast
of Castle Rock on the morning of the nth ; and, although
this was not the way by which they had descended from the
hills, Barne thought that the incline at this place looked more
gradual and would prove an easier road to the summit than
that by which they had come, and so decided to take it. In
expectation of a stiff and slippery climb, he directed his men
to put on the loose leather ski boots which they carried instead
of the softer fur boots. The ski boots were frozen hard, and
although most of the party got them on after much difficulty,
Vince and Hare had to give up the attempt and were allowed
to continue in their fur boots. Barne's report proceeds :
' Neither Primus lamp could be used on account of the
prickers being broken. At 9.45, the weather being clear, we
started, particular care having been taken to pack the sledges
securely to prevent damage in case of capsize during the ascent.
The hill can be easily ascended by taking a zig-zag course, the
surface of the snow being in broad natural steps. Finding,
however, that we could haul the sledges straight up, I did so,
making for Castle Rock. We stopped twice for rests, and
reached the top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of
Castle Rock at i p.m. We had scarcely gained the ridge when
it began to blow from the south-east, and the air was filled
with snow. I had just time to take a bearing of Crater Hill
before it was obscured, and I intended to make for it along
the ridge, but as several of the crew were getting frost-bitten
and the sledges were being blown over, I thought it best to
camp, and made for the shelter of some rocks which I had
seen before the wind sprang up. On finding them we got as

I902] A FATAL DECISION 177

much as possible under their lee and pitched our tents, getting
the men in as quickly as possible.'

The tents being up, the party crept into them, already
exhausted from their heavy pull up the long incline, and more
or less frost-bitten from their last efforts in the driving snow.
At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their
spirits, but now neither cooking apparatus was in order, and
they could not even melt the snow to drink with their icy cold
lunch. We afterwards weathered many a gale in our staunch
little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour
after hour, and we, ensconced in our sleeping-bags, passed our
time, if not in comfort, at least without sense of danger. But
to this party the experience was new ; they expected each gust
that swept down on them would bear the tents bodily away,
and meanwhile the chill air crept through their leather boots
and ill-considered clothing, and continually some frost-bitten
limb had to be nursed back to life. It was small wonder that
the position seemed intolerable, that their thoughts turned to the
comforts of the ship which they imagined to be within a mile
or so of them ; and after some discussion the fatal decision was
made to abandon their sledges and attempt to reach her.

We knew well enough afterwards the rashness of attempting
to move in an Antarctic snowstorm, but at this time it was
impossible for us to have known fully the serious nature of
such an act and the utter confusion which must ensue. It was
an experience which had to be bought, and this party were
destined to pay the price.

At this juncture Barne's report proceeds : *. . . The tents
were rolled up and secured, the dogs unharnessed, and we left
the sledges. Before leaving I impressed on the men, as
strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as it
was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance
than ten yards on account of the drifting snow. The two men
wearing fur boots had a man on either side to prevent them
from slipping. Our progress was very slow, as we were greatly
delayed by the men in fur boots, who had difficulty in walking
on the slippery, uneven surface. As we proceeded the surface

VOL. I. N

178 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

inclined to our right front until it was evident we were crossing
a steep slope on which it was more and more difficult to keep
a foothold. . . . About ten minutes after we had left the sledges,
Hare, who was at the rear of the party, was reported to be
missing, and at this moment an unusually violent squall pre-
vented us from seeing even one another. I immediately
ordered a chain to be formed at right angles and extending
across our track, each man keeping in touch with the next with
the idea of intercepting Hare when he came on. We shouted
and blew whistles, and whilst this was going on, Evans stepped
back on to a patch of bare smooth ice, fell, and shot out of
sight immediately.'

Thinking the slope to be one of the short ones so common
in the folds of the hills, Barne cautioned his men to remain
where they were ; and sitting down, deliberately started to slide
in Evans's tract. In a moment or two the slope grew steeper,
and soon he was going at a pace which left him with no power
to control his movements ; he whipped out his clasp knife and
dug it into the ice, but the blade snapped off short and failed
to check his wild career. In the mad rush he had time to
realise the mistake that had been made and to wonder vaguely
what would come next. In a flash, ice changed to snow, which
grew softer until, in a smother of flying particles, his rapid flight
was arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within a few feet
of him. They had scarcely exchanged greetings when a third
figure came hurtling down on them out of the gloom and was
brought to rest at their feet. This was Quartley, who, growing
impatient at Barne's absence, and of course ignorant of what
lay below, had started to slide down on the same track, and
had been swept down the descent in the same breathless manner.
Realising the impossibility of ascending again by the way they
had come, they started to descend, but within four paces of the
place at which they had been brought to rest they found that
the slope ended suddenly in a steep precipice beyond which
they could see nothing but the clouds of whirling snow. Even
as they recoiled from this new danger and dimly realised the
merciful patch of soft snow which had saved them from it, a

I902] VINCE'S TERRIBLE END 179

yelping dog flew past them, clawing madly at the icy slope, and
disappeared for ever into the gloom beyond.

Movement of any sort seemed impossible in this whirling
storm, and they sat for long huddled together, forlornly hoping
for some respite from the blinding drift. At last, chilled to the
bone, they felt that whatever happened they must be again on
the move, and in a dazed fashion they gathered themselves
together and slowly moved along the cliff to the right ; they
found that it gradually fell, and then suddenly they caught a
glimpse of the sea at their feet, and for the first time realised
that it was from this they had been saved by the patch of snow
almost on the cornice of the cliff.

In a short break in the storm they now saw Castle Rock
towering over their heads, and close ahead of them a rocky
ridge which ran from its foot. Slowly and painfully they made
their way up the stony incline until they stood beneath the high
rock cliffs, and here again they crouched together, seeking what
shelter they could behind a huge boulder, and thus they must
have remained for some hours.

Meanwhile the party which had been left at the head of the
slope, in obedience to orders, waited long for their absent
leader, shouting again and again in the lulls of the whirling
storm. At length they felt that something must be amiss, and
that it was hopeless and dangerous to remain where they were.
As usual on such occasions, the leading spirit came to the
front, and the five who now remained submitted themselves to
the guidance of Wild and followed him in single file as he
again struck out for the direction in which they supposed the
ship to lie. As they proceeded they found the slope growing
steeper and the difificulty of foothold increased, especially for
Vince, who was wearing fur boots, but they never doubted they
would soon come to the bottom and find themselves in one of
the valleys which would guide them to our winter quarters. In
this manner they must have proceeded for about 500 yards,
when their leader suddenly saw the precipice beneath his feet,
and far below, through the wreathing snow, the sea. Another
step would have taken him over the edge ; he sprang back with

N 2

i8o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

a cry of warning, and those behind him, hearing it, dug their
heels instinctively into the slippery surface, and with one
exception all succeeded in stopping. What followed was over
in an instant. Before his horror-stricken companions had time
to think, poor Vince, unable to check himself with his soft fur
boots, had shot from amongst them, flashed past the leader,
and disappeared. It was difficult to discover from the men's
account exactly what happened after this catastrophe. In
some sort of hazy way they seem to have realised that they
must make upwards and away from the danger, and they
started to ascend the slope.

All spoke of that ascent with horror, and wondered how it
was ever accomplished. They could only hold themselves by
the soles of their boots, and to fall or even to slip to their
knees meant inevitably to slide backwards towards the certain
fate below. Literally their lives depended on each foothold,
and they possessed no implement to make these more secure.
Of the party, Wild alone had previously armed the soles of his
boots with a few light nails ; this gave him a great advantage,
and, to his great credit, he used it to go from one to another of
his companions with a helping hand. As they crept laboriously
upwards, the slope became steeper and more icy, but now,
here and there, they found a stone which had rolled from the
heights above and become firmly frozen in the icy surface.
These afforded some anchorage and rest to the weary climbers.
The storm still whirled the snow about them with unabated
fury, but they pushed upwards in its teeth from stone to stone,
until to their joy the stones grew thicker, and close above them
they saw the black outline of the rocky summit. A final
scramble, and they were once more on safe ground, with the
nightmare of the climb behind them.

But their troubles were far from over, as they were still
ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild again took the lead ;
the sea behind them must be north of the ship, he argued, and
therefore they must keep the wind on their left front, and if
possible keep always to the rocks. It is difficult in such cir-
cumstances to gauge time, and none of the party knew how

1902] RESULTS OF SEARCH PARTIES i8i

long they walked on in dogged silence before their eyes fell on
a well-remembered landmark, and cautiously descending a
steep rocky incline, they saw the ship looming through the grey
whirl of snow ; but between the breaking-up of their camp and
the moment when they clambered over the side to make their
report to me, six hours had elapsed. It is httle wonder that
after such an experience they should have been, as I have men-
tioned, both excited and tired.

The hours which followed the departure of Armitage and
his search party on this fatal night were such as one could
scarcely forget ; exhausted as our returned wanderers were, we
questioned them again and again to get greater light on the
accident, but nothing could alter the fact that five of our small
company were lost or wandering helplessly about in this dread-
ful storm. Hatefully conscious of my inability to help on
account of my injured leg, my own mind seemed barren of all
suggestion of further help which we might render ; but, as was
always my experience in the ' Discovery,' my companions were
never wanting in resource. Dellbridge thought he could soon
raise steam enough to blow the syren, and before long its shrill
screams were echoing amongst the hills. Then, as we recon-
structed the story of Vince's loss and pictured the cliff over
which he had fallen, the bare possibility of some remaining
fragment of sea-ice clinging below was suggested. Was it
possible that we could reach it ? The only possibility was by
boat. Who would volunteer? Of course everyone. In ten
minutes a whaler was swinging alongside and being rapidly
loaded with provisions, cooking apparatus, and fur clothing ;
in ten more, with a picked crew of six men in charge of
Shackleton, she disappeared around Hut Point.

Then we could do nothing but peer through the driving
snow and wait. It was a trying time, and a full three hours
elapsed before there was a hail from without, and through the
drift appeared Ferrar leading three of the lost — Barne, Evans
and Quartley. Ferrar's tale was soon told. He had accom-
panied Armitage's party, and, guided by Wild, they had made
for Castle Rock and eventually found the abandoned sledges,

i82 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

and, at first, nothing near them but two dogs cosily coiled up
beneath the snow ; but later, as they circled round on their
ropes, they had providentially come on the three with whom
he had returned. Armitage had picked him to return because
his geological work had given him an exceptional knowledge of
the locality.

An hour later the main search party returned; they had
done all that men could do in such weather. A completer
search was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the
chance of seeing Hare or Vince again was very small. Soon
after our whaler reappeared with her crew thoroughly ex-
hausted ; they had pulled easily whilst under the shelter of
the nearer hills, but as they proceeded to the north they had
come under the influence of heavy squalls which had driven
them away from the land. It was only with the most
strenuous exertion, and after hours of arduous struggling, that
inch by inch they had gradually been able to regain the
shelter of Hut Point, and so reach the ship.

As we prepared to snatch some few hours of rest after the
anxieties of the night, we had sadly to realise the calamity that
had befallen us in what appeared to be the certain loss of two
of our comrades ; but as the details of the story were un-
folded, we could well appreciate that we had been almost
miraculously preserved from a far greater tragedy. It seemed
almost wonderful that the whole party had not disappeared, to
leave us only the terrible discovery of the abandoned sledges
or perhaps a frozen silent figure in the snow. Even now we
could not clearly understand how the officer of the party and
his two companions had been rescued ; all were too dazed to
complete their story on this woeful night. Later we learnt
that after hours of crouching beneath the boulder under Castle
Rock, they had heard the faint shriek of the syren. It had
revived their waning faculties, and they staggered once more
to their feet to make towards the welcome sound, and thus it
was that as they dragged themselves along they mercifully fell
into the arms of our sledge party. All three were badly
frost-bitten, and on the following day their ears, cheeks, and

I902] FROST-BITES 183

noses were swollen to a prodigious size ; but as this meant a
return of circulation, there was nothing worse for them in this
respect than a great deal of pain and discomfort. But one of
Barne's hands was in a much more serious condition ; the
blood obstinately refused to return to the dead white fingers,
and, whilst he swathed them in well-greased bandages, the
doctor informed me that there was little hope of saving them.
For many days the prospect of amputation seemed imminent,
and it was not until a week after the accident that the blood
began to extend slowly and painfully towards the tips of the
fingers. Although the hand was left in a shockingly mangled
and painful condition, the fingers were saved.

It may be of interest to those whose fortune has not taken
them to the colder regions of the earth to say a word or two
concerning frost- bites.

Even in the coldest places it is necessary to keep one's
face and sometimes one's fingers uncovered ; consequently it
is these parts of the body that are most likely to suffer, and in
the Antarctic Regions we were all so frequently frost-bitten in
them that we learnt to regard such an evil as part of the
ordinary course of events : and indeed there was very little to
fear as long as the frost-bite was noticed and the remedy taken
in time. Under ordinary conditions one has a distinct sensa-
tion on being frost-bitten ; the blood seems to recede from the
veins in the exposed part with a suddenness that almost con-
veys the sound of a ' click ' and the feeling of a prick with a
sharp instrument. At such times all that is necessary is to
apply gentle warmth to the frost-bitten member. For instance,
if one's cheek or nose is gone, one simply covers it for a minute
or two with the palm of one's hand. There is a fiction that
the best remedy is to seize a handful of snow and rub the
offending member, but as the snow in the polar regions has the
consistency of sharp sand or emery powder, the application of
such a remedy would speedily remove the skin, with anything
but a pleasant result.

Frost-bites such as I have described are merely superficial,
and, as I have said, they were of such frequent occurrence that

i84 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

under ordinary conditions we learnt to regard them very little,
and often, if one found it inconvenient to nurse one's own limb
back to life, one called on the kindly offices of a neighbour.

But the frost-bites that come when people are doing hard
work are more serious, as the first prick may pass unnoticed
and the superficial freezing continues to take deeper hold with-
out any further sensation. Should the frost-bitten person be
exhausted, the evil may spread with alarming rapidity, and
then, too, limbs which are well covered and protected may be
attacked, and the seriousness of such a condition needs no
comment. Hence in our subsequent hard sledging work,
whilst we treated the superficial frost-bite with scant respect,
we learnt to be cautious to prevent the evil from becoming
deep-seated. On long, tiring marches in a wind, frost-bites
were bound to come frequently, and in nine cases out of ten
were unfelt, so that our custom at such times was to pause
occasionally and peer into each other's faces in search of white
patches. More important still, we learnt not to continue ex-
hausting marches too long in heavy weather, but to reserve a
margin of energy for the chill work of making the camp, during
which any unduly tired person was bound to be in great
danger of serious freezing.

A frost-bite must be very superficial and very quickly dealt
with not to leave an after-effect. This effect is a blister, more
or less painful in proportion to the seriousness of the frost-
bite. To all intents and purposes the effect is precisely the
same as that of a burn. In anything but a very superficial
frost-bite, moreover, the actual sensation of returning circula-
tion is very distinctly painful.

Places which have been frost-bitten become extraordinarily
susceptible to a recurrence of the evil. In our second winter in
the Antarctic there were few of us whose fingers had not ' gone '
at one time or another, and consequently it was much rarer to see
people working with bare hands than it was in the first winter,
when many delighted to show their scorn of cold fingers. So
for a long while after Barne had recovered the use of his hand
he had to nurse it with far greater care than the uninjured one.

1902] WONDERFUL ESCAPE OF HARE 185

For the events which succeeded the distressing night of
March 11 I draw on my diary :

'•March 12. — Though the glass has risen continuously and
uniformly, the wind has only grown steadier without diminish-
ing, but there is very little of the driving snow which made
last night so hideous. Another search party were out early
under Wilson ; they went well provided with ice-axes, rope,
and crampons, and even thus had to use great care in venturing
on the fatal slope where so much happened yesterday. They
brought back the sledges and two more dogs, but could see no
sign of the missing men. But indeed it would be beyond
hope to find them alive after such a night ; at least, we now
know the worst. Some of the men are overwrought ; twice to-
day it has been reported that someone thought he saw a figure
crawling down the hillside, and on one occasion the illusion
was so strong that two or three ran to the other side of the
bay, only to find a boulder over which the drift was sweeping
in fantastic curls.'

'■March 13. — It is still blowing, and the temperature is
— 6° ; but the air is clear, and, the glass having reached a
maximum, there are hopes of a change for the better. We are
raising steam, as I want to view the scene of the accident from
the sea, and to make certain as to Vince's fate at least.'

Later I write : ' A very extraordinary thing has happened.
At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside. At first
we thought it must be someone who had been for an early
walk ; but it was very soon seen that the figure was walking
weakly, and, immediately after, the men who were working in
the hut were seen streaming out towards it. In a minute or
two we recognised the figure as that of young Hare, and in
less than five he was on board. He was taken into the
magnetic house, as it was thought unwise to take him into the
full warmth of the living-quarters at once. We soon discovered
that, though exhausted, weak, and hungry, he was in full
possession of his faculties and quite free from frost-bites. He
went placidly off to sleep whilst objecting to the inadequacy
of a milk diet.

i86 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

It was much later that we learnt his story. It appears that
he had left his companions intentionally, on finding that it was
impossible to stand alone in his fur boots. He had shouted
to the others that he meant to return to the sledges and
change into leather boots, and he was under the impression
that they had heard him and had quite understood the
reason. He made the best of his way in the direction in
which he supposed the sledges to be, but, as was natural, in
the thick snowdrift he could see no sign of them. For long
he wandered forward and backward, intent on his search ; but
gradually he got exhausted, and then he was conscious that
his footsteps were aimless. The last thing he remembered
was making towards a patch of rock, where he hoped to find
some shelter from the raging wind. When he awoke this
morning he found himself covered with snow, but, on raising
himself on his elbow, he saw that he was on a slope under
Castle Rock, and, glancing about him, recognised Crater Hill
and other known eminences, and realised exactly where he
was and the direction in which the ship lay. He started
towards her, but found himself so stiff that for a long way he
was obliged to crawl on hands and knees. But the stiffness
wore off, and he was able to raise himself at length, and, with
some rests, to reach the slope where we had first seen him.

* He must have lain under the snow for thirty- six hours,
but it took a long time to persuade him of this ; he found
it hard to believe that this was the second day after the
accident. I cannot but believe that his preservation is unique,
and almost miraculous. The boy, who is only eighteen, has
been forty hours without food, and sixty without warm food ;
he must possess great stamina to have come through without
hurt. The incident is also a tribute to our clothing. He was
luckily wearing a heavy woollen blouse and complete gaberdine
wind-covering over his warm underclothing. Unconsciously
he withdrew his arms inside the blouse, and covered the
opening in his thick helmet, and so saved his hands and face
from freezing. The fur boots alone saved his feet from the
same fate, and the snow, which rapidly covered him, must

I902] R.I.P. 187

have done the rest. To-night his temperature has gone up to
100°, but he is otherwise quite well.

' In the afternoon we weighed our anchors and steamed
round to the scene of the accident, when every detail of what
we now called " Danger Slope " could be clearly seen. It is
very steep for about 400 or 500 yards, and ends in a sheer
drop into the sea. Though partly covered with hard white
snow, it has extensive patches of smooth bare ice ; and, as the
tracks of the various parties were worked out, it seemed more
wonderful than ever that any should have escaped to tell the
tale.

' Every incident could now be closely followed, and all
shadow of doubt as to Vince's fate is gone. At least, we have
the satisfaction of knowing that nothing could have been
done either by his own party or by those on board to have
averted it.'

We had now finally and sadly to resign ourselves to the
loss of our shipmate, and the thought was grievous to all.
From the moment when he joined us at the Cape of Good
Hope, Vince had been popular with all ; always obliging and
always cheerful, I learnt that he had never shown these qualities
more markedly than during the short sledge journey which
brought him to his untimely end. His pleasant face and ready
wit served to dispel the thought of hardship and difficulty to
the end. Life was a bright thing to him, and it is something
to think that death must have come quickly in the grip of that
icy sea.

THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

CHAPTER Vn

PREPARING FOR WINTER

Delay in Freezing-up of the Ship — Dog Troubles — Return of Royds —
Local Weather Conditions — Last Sledging Effort of the Season —
Advantage of Experience — Preparing for Winter — Winter Arriving —
Meteorological Screen — Tidal Observations — Magnetic Huts —
Capturing Crab-eaters — Emperor Penguin Hunt — Departure of the
Sun.

Experience be a jewel that we have
Purchased at an infinite rate. — Shakespeare.

Of late the temperature had crept steadily down and the
young ice seemed more and more reluctant to yield to the
blustering winds and quit the surface of the strait. Our short
voyage to ' Danger Slope ' was made through patches of
sludgy, sodden ice which were even then increasing in thick-
ness. As we dropped our anchors again in our small bay we
felt that it was for the last time before the winter closed in on
us, and that soon further movement would be impossible ;
indeed, the only wonder was that such conditions had not
come long before. But now the wind alone kept the water
open, and in the short intervals of calm the icy crust formed
with great rapidity. I was anxious to be frozen in with our
bow pointing out to sea, and with the ship at such a distance
from the ice-foot that she should run no chance of being
pressed against it ; but as the wind always blew out of the
bay, this was not easily accomplished, and we had to content
ourselves with being ready to turn her at the critical moment.
For this purpose anchors were bedded on the ice-foot, and

I902] DOG TROUBLES 189

wire hawsers attached to them ready to haul the stern round
when the wind permitted it. In the meantime we could only
get to the shore by means of boats, and when the wind grew
very strong our communication was interrupted altogether,
since under such circumstances we scarcely liked to send a
boat away, for fear it should be carried out to sea by some
more than usually fierce gust.

It was for this reason that we were impotent to prevent the
murder of two of our dog team, though wc actually witnessed
it, and bitterly regretted the incautious but kindly policy which
had allowed these animals to run free, when they should have
been chained up.

Here, again, we erred from want of experience. The dogs
had been particularly quiet of late ; each had his own kennel,
and his own bountiful supply of food ; they had been given
plenty of exercise and were allowed to run about at their own
sweet will ; there seemed to be absolutely nothing that they
could quarrel about, and for days they had lulled us into false
security by appearing to be quite contented and to be living
on the most amicable terms. But alas for dog morals ! As
we well understood when we knew them better, they were only
biding their time. Some of their number had been away
sledging; why should they have been chosen? What treats
and petting had they been receiving from the hands of man
that by right belonged to the whole community?

They were objects of suspicion. Nothing they could do
was quite right; it was no use their wagging their tails and
pretending to be friendly when they had played a low-down
game like that ! it was all mere impertinent deception ! One
can only suppose that such thoughts pass through the doggish
mind, because the result is always the same. Let a dog be
unduly petted or receive more than his share of food, or be
taken away sledging : he inevitably becomes an object of
suspicion to the rest. The first growl, the first step beyond
the rigid limits of propriety, and not one, but the whole pack
are upon him, and even the thickest coat is a poor protection
against those bloodthirsty fangs. Of course there are excep-

I90 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

tions ; here and there is a dog of such commanding temper or
such truculent demeanour that he can afford to be treated
differently from the rest ; but even he seems to have to silence
criticism by being more than usually aggressive, if he should
have been absent for any length of time. Such a dog becomes
the natural leader of the pack ; he is unceasingly watchful ; he
never pauses to parley, but attacks at the first sign of insolence,
for he knows well that the sharpest and quickest fang commands
the situation.

These revelations of dog nature came to us gradually. It
was on March 15, whilst we were cut off from the shore, and
were casually watching the dogs as they idly trotted about on
the snow, that we witnessed the first attack. There was a
growl, a wild rush to a central spot, a heap of heaving, snarling
forms, and the horrid deed was done, almost before we realised
that the peace had been disturbed. We shouted and whistled,
but might just as well have held our breath. The deed done,
peace once more prevailed, and one would scarcely have
imagined that anything had happened but for the stiff, lifeless
form on the snow.

On the following day the wind still blew hard. We had
determined, however, that we must risk the passage to get
these bloodthirsty wretches chained up ; but even whilst the
boat was being manned the last night's tragedy was re-enacted,
and another poor beast lay mangled on the ice-foot. As the
boat's crew landed, the murderers welcomed them as though
nothing out of the ordinary had happened, and with a few
exceptions they were easily caught and chained up. Then,
one by one, they were led out and severely chastised in front
of their victims. The punishment helped to relieve our
righteous indignation, but otherwise, I think, we might have
spared our energy again, for the dogs evidently didn't know
what it was all about. You cannot change dog nature.

Meanwhile, however, we had lost two good sledge dogs,
which we could ill afford, and we decided that, however trying
it might be to their feelings, the remaining animals must be
kept on their chains. As we expected, the victims proved to

1902] RETURN OF ROYDS 191

be two harmless, quiet animals which had recently returned
from sledging.

The fatal mishap which had attended the main portion ot
our first sledge party left us in some anxiety for the remaining
members who were still absent. We knew them to be ill
provided for very severe conditions, and saw already that
sledging in the Antarctic was not a thing to be approached in
a light-hearted, irresponsible spirit, but was one which called
for great care, attention, and forethought. Our anxiety for the
absentees was not lessened when we saw Skelton descending
the hills alone on the 19th. However, when he was safely on
board we learnt that he was only a forerunner, and that the
others were close behind ; and soon they appeared, and in turn
were ferried off to the ship. There was much to be learnt on
both sides : it was for us to tell the sad tale of the recent
disaster, and for them to set forth the incidents and difficulties
of their attempt to reach the Record cairn. Royds' report was
so laconic that extracts from it may well convey an idea of the
troubles which beset the inexperienced sledge traveller :

' March 4.— ... On the summit " Nigger " bit " Gus "
so badly through the mouth that I had to send the latter
back. . . . 6.0. Stopped for tea, erected two tents ; Barne's
ear frost-bitten, several men had cramp in left leg, myself very
bad. . . . On starting again Vince and I had frost-bites under
the nose. Dogs pulled well ; some fights and a little trouble ;
"Boss" ran away. 8.15. Camped. Dogs wouldn't eat any-
thing ; one sledging lamp broken — a great nuisance, as now one
lamp has to cook for six men. Cramp prevalent amongst all
hands.

' March 5. — Very heavy going. Quartley's foot giving much
pain. Got up tent and had it examined. Not frost-bitten, but
intensely cold ; made him wear fur boots. . . . Several dogs
got bleeding feet ; snow getting heavier ; all hands perspiring
very much, feet sinking 9 inches to i foot at every step. . . .
5.45. Men completely " cooked," dogs tired out ; so camped.

• March 6. — . . . Snow getting thicker and softer, and
steered towards the land hoping for better conditions. . . .

192 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

Barne's dogs lying down and refusing work. . . . Find it best
for sledges to run on fresh snow, and not over footmarks. . . .
6.50. Forced to call a halt; men and dogs completely done.
The dogs' feet give them a lot of trouble ; they lick them hard
at every halt. Several men have cramp ; we feel back muscles
and legs awfully. Weller was so done when we stopped that
he flopped across the sledge and broke the sling thermometer.
. . . Made good only four miles. . . .'

This, with more to the same effect, goes to show that the
party were doing a great deal of hard work without much
result. By steering towards the land they only got into softer
and deeper snow, and therefore it was little to be wondered at
that on the 8th Royds decided to divide the party and to
attempt a further advance with Mr. Skelton and Dr. Koettlitz,
who, besides himself, were alone provided with ski. By this
time they were almost beneath the steep cliffs which fringe the
southern snow-slopes of Mount Terror. The level plain had
given place to long, steep undulations formed by the pressure
of the land-ice, and the silence about them was repeatedly
broken by the thunderous roar of an avalanche. On the gth
the three officers set out on their ski, and with only one light
sledge behind them made much better progress until, getting
towards the eastern slopes of Terror, they again found them-
selves on a hard, wind-swept snow surface. They had still
some miles to go before they came to the junction of the
barrier edge with the land, and the calm weather which they
had hitherto enjoyed now deserted them, making it most
difficult in the drifting snow to see their exact whereabouts or
the nature of the snow conditions about them. Skirting the
slopes of the mountain, however, they pushed on until they
were forced to rise on a snow incline which came abruptly to
an end and was succeeded by long stretches of bare land over
which it was impossible to take the sledge. Here they made
their camp, and from it they could sec the open Ross Sea and
the confused hummocked ice of the barrier where it forces its
way around the land. The penguin rookery in which our
record had been placed was still some distance from them, as

I902] FAILURE TO REACH THE RECORD 193

they knew, and they remembered that the north-eastern side
of the mountain was so free from snow that there could be
nothing now but bare land between them and it.

But this bare mountain-side was extensive, and covered so
thickly with small volcanic craters that it was difficult to select
the best path for their walk to the rookery, or, within limits, to
estimate their distance from it. There was risk also, in a
country where one landmark was so much like another, that
on their return they might have great difficulty in finding
their camp ; and if the wind should rise during their absence
this risk would be greatly increased, so that they ran the chance
of being landed in a very sorry plight. In fact, at their first
attempt on March 13, they had barely gone half a mile from
the camp when a thick blizzard came on, and they only regained
their tent by luckily falling across their ski, which had been
planted at some distance from the camp as a possible guide.

On the following day, however, they again sallied out and
succeeded in getting some miles towards their goal, if not
actually above it, before the wind came on and, blotting out all
features of the landscape with snowdrift, obliged them to turn
back and seek shelter with all possible speed.

It was now evident that the Record post could be reached,
but a fine day was essential, and here, as elsewhere, small
matters of detail connected with the special circumstances
must be attended to. One could not conveniently climb over
sharp, jagged rocks in the foot-gear which was worn with
comfort on the snow plains, as the bruised, sore feet of the
party witnessed ; another time it would be necessary to come
properly prepared with some arrangement for protecting the
sole of the foot.

The attempt to reach the Record was finally abandoned on
the 15th; but not until it was evident that a better-equipped
party with more favourable weather would have no difficulty in
getting to it. It will be understood that it presented itself to
me as a most important matter that this record should be
reached, as here lay the only chance of communicating our
position to any who should follow in our footsteps, but it was

VOL. I. O

194 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

immaterial whether it was reached now or after the coming
winter ; the assurance that it could be reached was the com-
forting fact that this party discovered, and in any case a spring
expedition would have been necessary to bring the news up to
date.

No sooner had the party turned towards the ship than the
wind fell, and with it the temperature. It was something to
know that the wind which had swept past this corner through-
out their stay was not perpetual, but the rapid fall of the
thermometer found them ill prepared. It had not occurred to
anyone that within such a short distance of the ship there
might be any large difference of temperature, and as the
summer was barely over, the officers had provided themselves
with a light wolf-skin fur suit only, for night wear. They had
found this clothing all too meagre when the thermometer
stood at — io° or — 15°, but on the night of the i6th sleep
proved impossible, and for the first time they found themselves
subjected to uncontrollable paroxysms of shivering. Huddle
together as they might, they could get no warmth, and on
creeping out to consult the thermometer they found it had
fallen to — 42°. They were luckily able to boil some cocoa,
and thus to get some warmth into their chilled bodies, but as
the long sleepless hours crept by they had ample opportunities
of learning the value of adequate clothing, and the wisdom of
being prepared for the unexpected rigours of a fickle climate.

With the morning the cold snap ended, and three days
later they reached the ship without further adventure.

On comparing notes with this party we realised for the first
time what a difference there might be in the weather conditions
of places within easy reach of the ship. It was not only in
the matter of temperatures, as I have already described, but
also in the force and direction of the wind. On the 17 th at
the ship we had had a very strong blow from the south, at one
time rising in force to a full gale, but the party only some
twelve miles to the eastward had felt nothing of this ; with
them the day had been calm, though overcast. This difference
of weather conditions could be observed throughout the

I902] LOCAL WEATHER CONDITIONS 195

journey ; neither those on board nor those away could have
told from their own meteorological conditions what the weather
might be with the others, and this fact was again and again
impressed on us throughout our stay in this region. Already
we had learnt that the prevalent wind at our winter quarters
blew from the S.E. through the ' Gap,' and that this wind was
usually local and frequently ceased within a mile or two of the
ship. To this we could now add some further conclusions.
It was evident that the eastern slopes of Terror were terribly
wind-swept, and that there the prevalent direction was from
the south, whilst the deep bay immediately to the eastward of
our peninsula was a particularly windless area where the
snow lay thick and soft, and was only occasionally stirred by
whirling squalls.

Meanwhile the position of the ship towards the latter end
of March was anything but satisfactory; that the temperature
should have fallen to — 40° to the eastward was a clear sign
that the winter conditions were upon us, but although the ice
forming about us sometimes reached a thickness of two or
three inches the sheet never held for any length of time, but
broke up rapidly when the wind grew strong. Under these
conditions it became increasingly difficult to keep up com-
munication with the shore ; when it was not blowing a stiff
gale our boats had to force their way through a tough elastic
sheet of young ice which clung to the sides in the most
exasperating fashion, and sometimes the short passage could
only be made after much hauling on ropes and the systematic
use of poles to break up and thrust aside the sheet. On one
occasion our light skiff was brought to a stop half-way across
in such a manner that the crew could neither advance nor
retreat, and it was quite an hour before, by manning a heavier
boat, we were able to break a way through and free her.

In this wholly unexpected state of affairs at such an
advanced date there were many drawbacks. Until we were
solidly frozen in, the security of our position must be doubtful ;
economy of coal had long ago necessitated the extinction of
fires in the boilers, and should a heavy gale drive us from our

196 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

shelter we could only have raised steam with difficulty and
after the lapse of many hours. If driven off by such a gale,
should we be able to get back? It seemed doubtful, and
meanwhile it would certainly be unsafe to send a large party
away from the ship, because with the ship adrift it was obvious
that most of them would be needed. If, on the other hand,
the fates were going to allow us to remain in this spot, there
was much to be done in preparing for the winter ; especially
it was desirable that the engines should be taken to pieces and
the steam joints be broken before the severer cold came upon
us ; but in our present position we dared not attempt such
work. One of the most annoying circumstances was that until
we had a solid sheet of ice about us we could not set up our
meteorological screen, nor communicate regularly with the
magnetic huts, nor, in fact, properly carry out any of the
routine scientific work which was such an important object of
the expedition.

Our proposed winter station was so far beyond that of any
former expedition that, as I have already pointed out, we had
nothing to guide us as to what the winter climate might be,
and our astonishment at the prolonged open conditions left us
almost in doubt as to whether the sea was ever going to freeze
over satisfactorily. The breaking away of the old ice had
ceased, and the open water was now at its maximum for the
season ; as will be seen from the chart, it ran from the decayed
glacier tongue, which we had visited on February 8, to the
S.E., circling about Cape Armitage with a radius of four or five
miles, and forming a deep bay to the eastward of the peninsula.
The ice-edge which limited the open water could be seen very
distinctly from the hills in the vicinity of the ship — a long,
irregular ribbon of white, gradually circling round, the edge
itself standing in some places two or three feet and in others
ten or fifteen feet above the sea level, and showing that what
remained was ice of a different character from that which had
broken away, and constituted the limit of a more ancient
ice-sheet.

At this time I was anxious to make one more sledging

1902] FROZEN IN 197

effort before the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to
lay out a depot of provisions to the south in preparation for
the following spring, but a more serious purpose was to give
myself and others a practical insight into the difficulties of
sledge travelling. One saw already that a great deal of our
sledging outfit was unsuitable and would have to be rearranged;
one saw, too, that in the minor details of clothing and so forth
there were points on which there was much difference of
opinion, and with regard to which, therefore, it was desirable
that every man should fend for himself, providing for things as
best suited his own ideas ; above all, it was evident that in a
sledging campaign, as in any other, the best work would be
done by the trained man. Before us lay the long winter
with ample time to organise our parties and to make the most
detailed preparations, but one could not hope to do this with-
out a full knowledge of the conditions to be met and a ready
and intelligent co-operation amongst all who were engaged in
the work. My wish, therefore, was to make a final autumnal
expedition which should include all those who had not been
away already ; but as this included the majority on board, we
were forced to await the greater security of the ship, not only
for reasons which I have already mentioned, but also because
until the deep bay to the south became re-frozen we could
only travel in that direction by the most circuitous and
difficult route. When the ice became safe, the simplest way
lay around the cape; failing this, we could manage without
much difficulty to get through the ' Gap ' ; but if the sea-ice
opposite that was unsound, we should have been forced to
climb to a height of nearly 1,000 feet, and after descending on
the other side to traverse a number of high, broken ridges.

The freezing-in of the ' Discovery ' was a very gradual
process. The ship, secured by her stern hawsers, had held in
place a small wedge of ice which had formed in the corner of
the bay. On March 24 this small patch was strong enough to
bear, and, whilst the bow of the ship was in open water, for
the first time we were able to walk on shore from the stern ;
and this wedge of ice held, and gradually increased in thick-

198 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Mar.

ness, in spite of the strong breezes of the week which
followed.

For instance, on March 27 I write: 'Blowing with

— 10° temperature during forenoon, but quite fine in afternoon
and evening. Our ice, having held during the late wind, may
fairly be considered to have come to stay. At 4.30 a party of
us went over the hill through the " Gap " to investigate the
chance of getting sledges down by that route. We found the
sea frozen over, and evidently, from the snowfall on it, the ice
has been formed for several days. It looks firm and hard, but
there is a drop of eleven feet from the ice-foot, which will be a
difficulty for the sledges, but will save the necessity of going
round by the seal crack. Nothing could exceed the beauty of
the scene this afternoon ; the snow was bathed in rosy light,
gorgeous shafts of gold sprang up from the sun, and the sky
was blood-red behind the hills in its wake. The moon was
up, a vast yellow disc to the east. It will be a companion for
at least the first part of our journey. Now and again, as we
trod on the snow-covered slopes of the hillsides, the icy crust
cracked with a sharp report like a pistol-shot. Evidently it
is in high tension from the recent cold.'

^ March 28 {Good Friday). — The day has been beautifully
calm and bright, though the temperature has not risen above

— 4°. After service our people spent the day wandering over
the hills; it was quite pleasant to see little parties dotted about
here and there, with a dog or two for company. The sea is at
last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice should become
firm enough to withstand future gales. We have completed
the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am pleased
with their appearance ; the packing is not neat enough, and we
haven't yet got anything like a system. To-morrow, if the
weather holds, we take our sledges across to the other side, so
as to make a fair start on Monday.'

^ March 30 {Easter Sunday). — Like yesterday, a fine day,
with a light northerly breeze. This is a season of flowers, and
behold ! they have sprung up about us as by magic : very
beautiful ice-flowers, waxen white in the shadow, but radiant

1902] ICE- FLOWERS 199

with prismatic colours where the sunrays light on their delicate
petals. It ■was a phenomenon to be expected in the newly
frozen sea, but it is curious that they should come to their
greatest perfection on this particular day. The ice is about
five inches thick and free from snow; consequently the ice-
flowers stand up clear-cut and perfect in form. In some places
they occur thickly, with broad, delicate, feathery leaves ; in
others the dark, clear ice surface is visible with only an oc-
casional plant on it ; in others, again, the plants assume a
spiky appearance, being formed of innumerable small spicules.
The more nearly one examines these beautiful formations, the
more wonderful they appear, as it is only by close inspection
that the mathematical precision of the delicate tracery can be
observed. It is now established that on the freezing of salt
water much of the brine is mechanically excluded. Sea-ice is
much less salt than the sea itself, and what salt remains is sup-
posed only to be entangled in the frozen water. The amount
of salt excluded seems to depend on the rate at which the ice
is formed, and whilst some is excluded below the ice-surface,
some is also pushed out above, and it is this that forms the ice-
flowers. The subject is very fascinating, and we have already
started to measure the salinity of ice taken from different
depths and formed under various conditions : the ice-flowers
themselves do not seem to constitute a saturated solution of
brine, and why they should differ in form in various places
seems beyond explanation.

' To-day we saw a group of penguins far over the ice, and
after church Hodgson, Shackleton, and I walked out towards
them. They turned out to be Emperors, and were all standing
about very contentedly near a crack much too narrow to allow
them to get through. It is difficult to see how these birds can
now get north, and it looks as though they winter more or less
in these regions, probably close to spots where the ice is certain
to open from the effect of tide or wind. If so, this would
throw a new and interesting light on their habits, and one can
only hope that they will give us the pleasure of their company
in our immediate vicinity.

200 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [^Iar.

' To-night as I was walking back from the hills I was frost-
bitten in the lobe of the ear. I describe it because it was a
typical example. There was very little wind, and as I came
down the slope I distinctly heard or felt a sort of snap in my
ear, but, feeling nothing, I paid no heed until when I got on
board I realised that I had no feeling in the ear. It very
quickly thawed out — much too quickly, in fact ; for now it is
swelled up to a great size, and there will be no escaping the
coming blister.'

On the following day we made our start, a party of twelve,
divided into two teams, each with a string of sledges and
nine dogs. A strong south-easterly wind with snow-drift was
pouring through the 'Gap,' but a mile or two to the south we
got clear of this and plodded on in comparative calm. Our
loads were arranged theoretically, 200 lbs. to each man and
100 lbs. to each dog, and the first discovery we made was that
the dogs entirely refused to work on our theory ; the best of
them only exerted a pull of about 50 lbs., and this with very
dispirited and downcast mien ; the rest hung disconsolately
back on the traces and had to be half led, half dragged over
the frozen surface. The whole thing was extremely trouble-
some, and, what with the heavy pulling and the constant
necessity of clearing the traces, as may be imagined, our
progress was extremely slow, and we heartily wished we had
left the whole dog team safely chained up. It was a curious
reversal of our expectations. I don't know that we had any
very good reason, but we had never thought but that our dogs,
when they got the chance, would be found straining at their
traces with heads and tails held high. To see them now with
both ends at the maximum depression was a severe shock to
our inexperience.

We learnt later on that it was a bad plan to combine dogs
and men on a sledge ; the dogs have a pace and a manner of
pulling of their own, and neither of these is adapted to the
unequal movement caused by the swing of marching men.
Both men and dogs like a light load, but the former are much
less easily dispirited by a heavy one.

I902] LAST SLEDGE JOURNEY OF THE SEASON 201

But on this occasion there was a stronger reason for the
inefficiency of the dogs. They were losing their coats ; the
thick fur was coming out in handfuls, and the young downy
coat underneath formed a wretched protection against the
bitterly cold winds that headed us. The habits of the animals
were of course adapted to their northern home, where at this
time the warm summer would be just commencing and where
no doubt they would have been glad enough to be free of
their thick winter garment ; but that Nature should oblige
them to discard it at the same season in this hemisphere was
obviously ill-timed. As a matter of fact, our poor dogs
suffered a great deal from their poorly clothed condition during
the next week or two, and we could do little to help them ;
but Nature seemed to realise the mistake, and came quickly
to the rescue : the new coats grew surprisingly fast, and before
the winter had really settled down on us all the animals were
again enveloped in their normally thick woolly covering. It
may here be remarked that they moulted again in the spring ;
what would have happened in the following autumn cannot be
said, for by that time, alas ! all our team had ceased to be ;
but it seems as though they were already adapted to their new
environment.

The fact that the dogs refused to do their share of the
work on this trip meant of course that we had to do a good
deal more than ours, and the resultant load per mar> was a
great deal more than we ever afterwards sought to inflict on
a party. We were practically doomed to failure, but each
hour was an invaluable experience. On the first day we had
already travelled some way over the new sea-ice when we
realised that we must cross it before camping, as on it we
could get no snow, either to fill our cookers or to secure our
tents. This meant a long pull, and the night fell on us as we
struggled with all the unaccustomed details of pitching camp.
The thermometer fell to —40° before we could climb into our
ill-made fur clothing, and the hours which followed were
comfortless enough to have discouraged the most ardent
sledger. For two more days we pushed on in the same dis-

202 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

organised fashion, the men straining hard at a heart breaking
load, the dogs at each step flinching more determinedly from
the cutting wind and the light pricking drift which it carried
to the level of their noses ; the thermometer never rose above
-30°, and the third night it fell to —47°. The daylight
hours were now very short, and all too many were wasted in
the unavoidable delays of inexperienced camp work, and from
the want of facility in the details of our arrangements. After
three days' labour we were only nine miles from the ship, and
it was quite evident that under present conditions we could
not expect a better speed. On April 3 I decided to turn, and
' caching ' our heavy loads we reached the ship that night,
and could then fully realise what an extraordinarily sheltered
position she occupied, for I find in my diary : ' The tempera-
ture on board has never fallen below —23°, so that it appears
we can count on about 20° better in our snug winter quarters
than occurs on the open barrier. But if one can get nearly
— 50° on the barrier before the sun has set, what is it going to
be like in mid-winter ? and what also in the early spring, when
our sledging begins again ? '

Our autumn sledging was at an end, and left me with
much food for thought. In one way or another each journey
had been a failure ; we had little or nothing to show for our
labours. The errors were patent ; food, clothing, everything
was wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that there
would have to be a thorough reorganisation before the spring,
and it was well to think that before us lay a long winter in
which this might be effected.

I have described these early troubles in some detail, partly
because they show how much we learnt by our failures and
partly because it is necessary to realise that sledging is not
such an easy matter as might be imagined.

That we were eventually able to make long and successful
sledge journeys is no doubt due to the mistakes which we
made and to the experience which we gained during the first
barren attempts of this autumn, and yet more to the fact that
we resolved to profit by them, and thoroughly took our lesson

1902] METEOROLOGICAL SCREEN 203

to heart. I do not mean to imply that our education was
complete— as a matter of fact, we never ceased to learn new
tips or to adopt new devices, and the general sledging work
of the second summer was vastly superior to that of the first
— but it was the crushing ineffectiveness of our early efforts
which taught us the first great lesson.

The daylight hours were now getting rapidly shorter, and
we knew that before the end of the month we should lose the
sun. We were left with little time to complete all our outside
arrangements, which had been necessarily delayed until the
formation of the ice-sheet ; although we felt anything but
certain that the ice had come to stay, the losses which its
break-up would entail must now be risked.

One of our first cares was to get up the meteorological
screen ; this erection, made under the superintendence of our
meteorologist, Mr. Royds, consisted of a framework supported
by four stout poles; special louvred box-screens were placed
high on this, and inside them were fitted the various ther-
mometric and hygrometric instruments, whilst the corner poles
were utilised for anemometers and wind vane. The whole of
this somewhat elaborate erection was placed about loo yards
astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which
would be to windward of her with the prevalent south-easterly
winds. At first the actual screens were some eight feet above
the surface of the ice, but we soon found that our small bay
was a focus for driving snow, and after each storm the surface
was raised a foot or more and the comparative height of the
screens proportionately reduced ; once the whole structure had
to be dug up and moved for this reason, but this could not
be repeated often, and the net result was that the screens were
reduced to an average height of five or six feet above the
surface. We found it was quite time that these screens were
placed, as we were getting very inaccurate temperature readings
on board ; for instance, I find a note of one comparison made
about this time : ' The thermometer on the gunwale shows
— 20°, that in the screen on board 4° higher, and that in the
screen on the ice some 5° or 6^ lower.'

204 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

We possessed one recording anemometer of the ' Dyne '
type. The instrument itself had to be placed in shelter, and
we allotted one of our small deck-houses to it. The funnel
vane was secured in the mizen cross-trees, some forty or fifty
feet above the deck, and two small lead pipes connected it to
the recording instrument. Finally, the barometer was placed
in the magnetic deck-house and the barographs in suitable
positions close by.

To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations
was one of the most important scientific objects of the expe-
dition, and it had been decided that the instruments should be
read and recorded every two hours. And so in calm or storm,
night and day, some member of our community had to be on
the alert and every other hour to make the rounds of the
various instruments. First the barometer would be visited, its
reading and that of the attached thermometer registered; then
at the screen the readings of the wet and dry bulb thermo-
meters and of the minimum thermometer would be noted ;
then the anemometers and the wind direction had to be
observed ; then an estimate made of the force of the wind
and notes added concerning the nature, amount, and direction
of movement of the clouds ; and, finally, the various recording
instruments must be visited to see that they continued in good
order. On a fine night this was no great hardship, but in
stormy weather the task was not coveted by anyone. On such
occasions it was necessary before going out to prepare oneself
carefully to resist the wind and snowdrift, and the round itself
was often attended with exasperating annoyances. During the
winter it was always necessary to carry a lantern, but it is not
easy to construct a lantern which will remain alight in all con-
ditions of weather. At first we tried a small electric glow-
lamp, but batteries and leads so easily got out of order that
this was abandoned. Finally a candle lantern was evolved
which was fairly satisfactory, but in the meanwhile many a
time was the hapless observer forced to desist in the middle of
his work to return and obtain a fresh light. The necessity of
writing up the record sheet in the open was also trying in

1902] TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS 205

windy, cold weather ; not only would one's fingers freeze very
rapidly, but one's breath would form an icy film on the paper
through which it was difficult to make the pencil- mark. The
most annoying instrument with which we had to deal was
called the Ashmann's aspirator ; it consisted of a wet and dry
bulb thermometer, but the air was circulated around the bulbs
by a clockwork fan. At each observation it was necessary to
wind up the clockwork, to wait for the fan to have full time for
action, and then to read the result on two distressingly thin
threads of mercury. As all these operations had to be done
with bare fingers, a more angering cold-weather instrument can
hardly be imagined.

The trials and tribulations of the meteorological observer
were, in fact, numerous, and it was arranged that throughout
the winter each officer should take it in turn to make the night
observations from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. Dr. Wilson nobly offered
to take the 8 a.m. observation regularly, but the lion's share of
the work fell on the meteorologist himself, who, besides taking
his share of the night work, throughout the first winter and a
great part of the second, took all the observations between
10 A.M. and 10 p.m.

The most dreaded day for Mr. Royds, however, was
Monday, as on that day it became necessary to change the
papers on the recording instruments. Anyone who is familiar
with the ordinary barograph or thermograph can imagine that
when the temperature was below — 20°, with a brisk wind, this
task could appear attractive to no one.

I may remark generally that it is quite a mistake to suppose
that one grows hardened or more callous to the cold, either in
one's fingers or in any other part of the body ; what does
happen, however, is that one becomes more expert in keeping
oneself warm. For instance, in handling cold metal one learns
when to stop and to plunge one's fingers back into a warm mit,
and how best to restore one's circulation ; and so in the long
run, when a cold job has to be done, it is done more expedi-
tiously and with less suffering after experience has been gained.

Before quitting the subject of meteorology I may say that

2o6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

other observations were added as we gradually came to see our
way more clearly and took our winter walks abroad. One had
only to walk a few hundred yards from the ship to get sight of
the smoking summit of Erebus, and we soon saw that the
direction of movement of its vapour afforded us the most
excellent indication of the upper air currents, and few days
passed without some recorded observation of this fine beacon.

Later, too, our energetic walkers established subsidiary
observatories where the temperatures could be taken and com-
pared with those read near the ship. We were thus able to
get interesting comparisons with observations taken on the top
of the highest hill in our neighbourhood, i,o8o feet above us,
and with a spot on the other side of Cape Armitage, and
therefore more directly affected by the barrier conditions.

Another routine observation I was anxious to get into
working order was that of the tide, and here we were faced
with a good deal of difficulty in attempting to make a gauge
which would work successfully through the ice. We had
endeavoured to get some observations before the sea froze
over, but the long pole which we placed against the ice-foot
soon became so crusted with ice that the markings were
obscured, and as it was impossible to clear this ice except from
a boat, we were not able to get continuous readings. But later
on we succeeded in getting a continuous record over a long
period ; and as the arrangement was only arrived at after some
thought and numerous trials, the method is worth description
for the benefit of future explorers who may be similarly
situated.

Our first essay was to take a length of the single pianoforte
sounding-wire, of which we carried a great quantity. One end
of this was attached to a heavy weight resting on the bottom ;
the wire was then taken through a block held up by means of
a tripod firmly planted on the ice, and to its other end was
attached a second weight having about half the mass of the
first. It is evident that with such an arrangement, as the
tripod rose and fell with the tide, the upper weight would
record its movement, always providing that the wire did not

I902] TIDAL OBSERVATIONS 207

become too firmly gripped by the ice. As the wire was strong
enough to admit of comparatively heavy weights, I had hopes
that the pull would always be sufficient to overcome the fric-
tion of the ice, and for a long time this was so ; but at length
the ice became thick enough to hold the wire, and then of
course the arrangement failed.

We had already improved on the tripod, by fixing up a
second gauge working over the ship's side, with the second
weight inside, when this difficulty arose. The problem now
was, how to get the wire to work freely through the ice, and it
was solved in a very simple manner. Someone — I think it was
Wilson— conceived the brilliant idea of surrounding the wire
with paraffin, which does not freeze, and our excellent engi-
neers had soon turned out a small copper tube more than eight
feet in length. The new tide-gauge was quickly completed ;
the wire was now brought up through a small wooden plug at
the bottom of the tube, then through the tube and up over a
freely working pulley which hung from the forecastle, through
another pulley on the deck, and down to the inside weight,
which hung opposite a well-marked scale. When the copper
tube, filled with paraffin, was firmly frozen in the ice, we had
the satisfaction of seeing the wire working through it practically
without friction, and this it continued to do throughout the
winter and spring. In searching for possible causes of error,
we had, of course, to assure ourselves that the ship rose and
fell regularly with the surface of the water, and to make allow-
ance for any alteration in trim which might take place from
time to time ; but, with all its advantages and disadvantages,
the arrangement must be considered about as satisfactory a one
as could well be arrived at in the circumstances.

I have given some account of the erection of our magnetic
huts. It would perhaps be as well to give here an idea of the
purpose for which they were used. They and all that apper-
tained to them were Mr. Bernacchi's special business, and
many times a day this officer could be seen journeying to and
fro in attendance on his precious charge. Within the larger
of the huts, mounted on a solidly bedded oak plank, could be

2o8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

seen three small instruments, set at different angles, but each
containing a delicately suspended magnetic needle to which
was attached a tiny mirror ; a shaded lamp and a roll of
sensitised photographic paper were so arranged that the light
reflected from each small mirror was thrown on to the roll,
and the latter was slowly but continuously revolved by clock-
work. The sensitised paper came off the roll in long strips,
and after being developed exhibited fine wavy lines drawn by
the points of light focussed from the mirrors. The three
small instruments recorded respectively the declination, hori-
zontal force, and vertical force, or the elements of the earth's
magnetic pull from which its nature could be calculated at any
moment.

The general reader may well wonder why so much trouble
should be taken to ascertain small differences in the earth's
magnetism, and he could scarcely be answered in a few words.
Broadly speaking, the earth is a magnet, and its magnetism is
constantly changing ; but why it is a magnet, or why it
changes, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and
obviously the most hopeful road to the explanation of a phe
nomenon is to study it. For many reasons the phenomenon of
magnetism could be recorded in few more useful places than
our winter station in the Antarctic.

These record strips were a source of great interest to us all
when Bernacchi showed them from time to time. They varied
much in character ; sometimes the lines would run with long
gradual waves, at others they were distinctly jerky and un-
settled, and occasionally, there were magnetic storms when
they would fly off the paper altogether. There was a fourth
line, which I have not yet mentioned ; this was the line of tem-
perature, and was necessary for the correction of the others.
It was this that gave Bernacchi most of his trouble and drew
to an alarming extent on our oil supply. The desire was to
keep a constant temperature inside the hut, but with the
frequent change outside this was most difficult to do, and
although attempts were made to regulate the burning of a
heating lamp within, the variations were at first very great

I902] MAGNETIC HUTS 209

though they were lessened when we could get a sufficient
supply of soft snow to bank the house up thoroughly outside.

Besides the magnetic variometers the larger hut contained
another instrument of importance in the seismograph, which
also kept a continuous record on a long roll of sensitised paper.
I do not know that we had any good reason for so thinking,
but, situated so close to an active volcano, we had expected
this instrument to show much activity ; contrary to our expec-
tation, however, our region proved a particularly quiet one,
and throughout our stay we were singularly free from earth
tremors.

It should be understood that the magnetic instruments
which I have briefly mentioned above were purely differential
instruments. Whilst they would faithfully record the changes
from hour to hour and day to day they were liable to small
derangements which might prevent the comparison of one
month with another. To obviate this difficulty, from time to
time check observations were taken with absolute instruments,
and for this purpose the second and smaller hut had been
provided. In this small, dark cabin Bernacchi would occa-
sionally be forced to shut himself, with only the magnetometer
and the cold for company.

In addition to the establishment of the routine of regular
scientific work, there was a great deal of work to be done for
the comfort and well-being of the ship before the winter set in,
and this, together with many unexpected tasks, kept all hands
busy and amused. The incidents of this time are perhaps
best given in extracts from my diary :

' April 5. — Some seals were observed close to the cape this
afternoon ; a killing party managed to get six. The skua gulls
have gone, so that the carcases can now be left about with
safety. Except for this reason, we rather miss the skuas ; the
absence of bird life adds to the deserted appearance of our
outlook. There is still a slight swell, most noticeable at the
crack beyond Hut Point ; from the Point and from Cape
Armitage there are numerous radial cracks, gradually widening
and extending in length. Two " crab-eater " seals were found
VOL. I. p

2IO THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

on the ice close to the ship to-night ; we have very rarely seen
these seals since our arrival in winter quarters ; they seem to
live mostly in the open sea. These animals must have come
up through one of the holes, and then, possibly attracted by
the ship, they appeared to have lost their bearings, as they
crawled in any direction rather than towards an opening in
the ice.

'We were still desirous of increasing our stock of seal-meat,
but had we killed these animals at once we should have had
great difficulty in skinning them in the dark, and by morning
we knew the carcases would be hard frozen. In this dilemma
orders were given to tie them up, and this resulted in quite an
amusing scene. This species of seal is much more lithe and
agile than the Weddell, and no sooner had a noose been
cunningly drawn around the neck of one of these animals than
he whipped round with such a ferocious snapping of the jaws
that the holder of the rope incontinently fled ; at length double
nooses were drawn tight under the flippers of each animal, and
with a precautionary extra rope around the tail we had them,
as we thought, securely tied to the ship's chain cables ; but ten
minutes later we heard that both had freed themselves by
slipping through their lashings. By this time everyone was
turning in, but the matter was now growing into a serious
reflection on our ability ; that a party of sailors should confess
themselves unable to tie any animal up securely was not to be
thought of, so out we all sallied again. This time, after much
struggling, each seal was lashed up like a hammock with
frequent turns of rope round the body from the nose to the
tail, and finally they were once more secured to the cable.'
In spite of all our efforts, however, in the morning we found
that one of these animals had slipped through everything and
disappeared.

' April 7. — To-day we found the sea open northward of a
line from Hut Point, evidently the result of the late gale. The
temperature to-day has risen to +10°, and, possibly in conse-
quence, to-night furious squalls come from the E.S.E. towards
the open water. I think our bay- ice is safe enough, but one

I902] PROGRESS OF WINTER PREPARATIONS 21 t

can never tell. If it breaks now, we shall be in a very uncom-
fortable position, as both our boilers are run out and the
engines are in pieces. A party with two large sledges and the
dogs brought back eleven seals to-day, and will bring in some
more to-morrow, so that we are now getting pretty secure for
our winter stock.

'The work of getting comfortably settled is progressing.
The winter awning is spread ; it did not fit at all well, and we
were obliged to make several alterations. It is made of a
thick, rough, flaxen material, called, I think, " waggon cloth,"
which I was at great pains to get, on advice. I believe we
should have done better to have had it made of ordinary stout
canvas. The winter awning ends at the mainmast, but we pro-
pose to construct a further covered way aft to the engine-room
with our summer awnings and odd pieces of canvas. There
will probably be a good deal of work in the engine-room during
the winter, and it is well to have complete shelter to and from
it. With the awning spread over the living spaces, we are
obliged to use artificial light all day ; but we should get little
enough natural light even if the awning were not there.

' The men are building a snow-bank for our gangway, and
another at the ice-foot to make a road to the hut ; but the
difficulty at present is to get snow. None has fallen recently,
and that on the land is hard and icy. As our awning would
not spread well over the boats, we have got them out, and
hauled them over towards the ice-foot, They are now ranged
in a line close to it, and there, it is to be hoped, they will
remain safely during the winter.'

This latter step with regard to the boats was a fatal error,
and afterwards gave us a vast amount of labour and trouble.
It was yet another case in which we had to buy our experience
sadly. Our principal anxiety had been to find a place where
they would not be exposed to the full force of the winter gales,
and we never thought of the danger which actually overtook
them. It was not until the middle of the winter that we
realised that what had been the surface of the ice was, under
the weight of newly fallen snow, gradually sinking below the

p 2

212 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

water-level, carrying the boats with it ; and then, as it was
impossible to commence rescuing operations till the daylight
returned, we were forced helplessly to watch them getting into
a worse and worse plight.

On the night of the 8th there was a great Emperor penguin
hunt. ' It was blowing half a gale of wind, and the snow was
driving rapidly past when someone espied a company of digni-
fied " Emperors " advancing towards the ship. Our zoologist
pointed out that here was the chance to complete our collection
of skins, as the birds would now be in their finest plumage ;
and in spite of the weather a large party had soon surrounded
the unfortunate birds. I was not present myself, but I hear
there was much excitement. It is no easy matter to hold an
Emperor ; they are extraordinarly strong both in their legs and
flippers, and are capable of moving even with a man on top of
them. They could of course have been clubbed, but this
would have damaged them as specimens. The proper method
was to get hold of them firmly and give the coup de grace in a
scientific manner by inserting the blade of a penknife at the
base of the skull. The confusion in the dark, when everyone
was trying to capture a bird and these powerful creatures were
dashing in every direction, can better be imagined than
described. Report says that frequently one man was trying to
capture another under the impression that he was a penguin,
and more than one of the party seem to have been temporarily
floored by the wild dashes of the intended victims. It was
late at night before sufficient specimens had been slain, and
then the party returned with a plentiful supply of frost-bites,
of which they had been quite oblivious in the excitement of
the chase.' The above scene may sound somewhat blood-
thirsty, but it is just to remark that we never slew animals
except for the practical object of obtaining food or specimens
or both ; and, indeed, the more we came to see the extra-
ordinary, unsuspicious tameness of the animal life about us,
the more compunction we were forced to feel at the necessity
of killing at all. It was difficult to realise at first the full
extent of this tameness — one is so little accustomed to total

1902] EMPEROR PENGUIN HUNT 213

ignorance of man as an enemy — yet the attitude of both seals
and penguins towards Hfe is a very simple one. In the sea
they prey and are preyed upon, and are adapted to such a con-
dition ; in that element they are swift, agile, and doubtless
suspicious. But on the ice or on land they have never known
an enemy — from all time it has been sanctuary, where they can
mate, sleep, and rest without fear ; and so the presence of an
utterly unknown danger produces at first only consuming
curiosity, and even when a vague feeling of alarm steals on
their dull senses, they instinctively recoil from seeking safety in
the sea, where alone safety is. It is interesting to think how
different are the corresponding conditions in the far North,
where for countless years the bear and the Esquimaux have
ranged the floes, and the seal has become so timid that it is
often difficult for the traveller to get within rifle-shot.

We found later on that the care which was taken on this
night to shepherd the flock of penguins together before the
victims were slain was quite unnecessary. So unsuspecting
are these birds that they will stand stupidly by, without thought
of flight, whilst individuals are cut out one by one from the group
and killed. Even the last surviving member of such a group
seems to remain unalarmed.

' April 9. — We found that the Emperor penguins killed last
night are in splendid plumage. Many of them weighed over
80 lbs., and the largest turned the scale at 90 lbs. — quite a
record weight. Rather a touching scene occurred when four
or five stragglers from last night came boldly up to their dead
companions, evidently at a loss to understand what it all
meant.

' The sea is again open up to Hut Point, and possibly the
inrush of cold air to the open water causes the extraordinary
difference of weather conditions which exist in different
localities within our view. Some of the hills are clear and
bright with sunshine, whilst others are dark with hovering
clouds ; at certain places it is undoubtedly calm, but at others
the drift snow can be seen rising in clouds and sweeping
furiously along. Towards Cape Bird there are heavy, low

214 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

cumulus clouds with black under-shadows; there must be a
great deal of open water in this direction. The various sky
effects are very beautiful.

''April 13. — The ice has broken away enough to show open
water around Hut Point ahead of the ship ; it has been snowing
all day, the snow falling in large, soft flakes, with a temperature
of +17°. This afternoon we had several strong gusts from
the south, and later the wind became more constant from the
same direction and gradually increased to a full gale, when it
shifted slowly to the S.E. with a rapidly falling temperature.
Unfortunately, the windmill was left running after dinner, when
it should have been feathered to the wind. The result is that
some of the fans are badly twisted. I am rapidly losing faith
in this unfortunate device, but I don't think that it had a fair
chance to-day, and I shall suggest to the engine-room staff that
it ought to be repaired if it is not too far gone.' For days
after this the windmill was under repair, all the bent fans were
taken down and carefully straightened below, but the task of
replacing them was anything but pleasant, and hour after hour
our excellent engine-room people spent aloft in the bitter wind,
seated on cold metal, clinging to cold metal, and often obliged
to handle their cold metal tools with bared fingers. Nothing
would persuade them to give up, however, until the work was
completed and the windmill once more revolving merrily.

''April 17. — All our former ski runs are now impossible;
most of the snow-slopes are covered with hard high sashugi
raised by the late winds. Everywhere the snow is packed by
the same cause, and the surface is so hard that it is impossible
to climb the steeper inclines even in boots. Some of the men
are out occasionally with a football, but the wind interferes
sadly with all forms of sport, and in anything like calm weather
most of us prefer to take walks to spy out the land. There
are such a number of old volcanic craters close about us that
it will be long before we become thoroughly acquainted with
all the folds and valleys between, and for many a month yet
we may hope to find new features in our neighbourhood and
some fresh interest in our daily exercise.

I902] DEPARTURE OF THE SUN 215

' The sun does not now rise sufficiently high to shine on
the ship, but about noon one can see it from the eminence of
Hut Point. . . .'

^ April 20. — A bright day with moderate northerly wind.
The young ice just formed over the open strait crowded down
on the old and rode over it in many places. The sun is very
near its departure ; to-day it appeared a highly refracted
elliptical ball of red, giving little light and no appreciable heat.
For a few minutes it bathed the top of Observation Hill in soft
pink light, then vanished beneath a blood-red horizon.'

This was the last we saw of the sun till it returned to us
more than four months later. Its actual date of disappearance
was the 23rd, but after the 20th we had a return to what, at
this time, appeared the normal weather conditions, and for the
three following days my daily journal opens with the same
remark : ' Wind still blowing hard with an overcast sky.' It
was not a very enlivening prelude to the coming darkness, but
it would have taken far more than this to depress us in our
novel surroundings, and all felt the propriety of the celebrations
on the night of the 23rd, when hilarity reigned supreme, and
with a liberal allowance of extra grog we drank to a speedy
passage of the long night.

The winter was now upon us. The ice about the ship had
been firmly fixed for nearly a month, and there seemed little
reason to suppose that the heaviest gale could move it before
the following summer. For good or ill we were now a fixture,
destined to spend our winter nearly 500 miles beyond the
point at which any other human beings had wintered, and
therefore about to face conditions at which we could only
guess.

Before us lay a weary spell of darkness, but we came to it
in full health and vigour, and all that skill could devise to pro-
vide for our comfort and lighten its monotony seemed within
our grasp. Each day would bring us nearer to the longed-for
spring, and to the day when, with high hopes, we should step
forth on those new trails which met at our door and vanished
in the unknown.

2i6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

CHAPTER VIII

THE POLAR WINTER

Winter Routine— Obtaining Water — Meals and Meal-hours — Pastimes —
Officers' Routine — Debates— Exercise— Work of the Officers— Weather
Conditions — Heavy Blizzard and its Effects — Incidents of the Winter —
Winter Clothing — Remarks on our Food— Sunday Routine — Discomforts
of the Living-quarters from Ice — Heating and Ventilation — Mid-winter
Day,

The cold ice slept below,
Above the cold sky shone,
And all around
With a chilling sound
From caves of ice and fields of snow
The breath of night like death did flow

Beneath the sinking moon. — Shelley.

Long before the sun left us we had settled down into a
regular routine of daily life, and although when it was above
the horizon the hours of work were modified and generally
increased, our meal-hours remained unaltered during the two
years which saw us in the grip of the ice.

The following description of our daily life on board is
contained in my diary of the early months of our first winter :

' The first task of the day is to fetch the ice for the daily
consumption of water for cooking, drinking, and washing. In
the latter respect we begin to realise that many circumstances
are against habits of excessive cleanliness, but although we use
water very sparingly, an astonishing amount of washing is done
with it, and at present the fashion is for all to have a bath once
a week. To fetch the ice in the morning a party of men are
roused out somewhat earlier than their comrades, and dressing

1902] OBTAINING WATER 217

themselves according to the weather, they proceed to the ice-
quarry with a heavy sledge specially fitted for the work. The
harder and bluer the ice, the better it is adapted for melting
and the less fuel is required to melt it ; had we been obliged
to use snow, either hard or soft, the daily task would have
been much heavier ; but by good fortune we have a very solid
icy slope on the land not more than 200 yards from the ship,
and here we have made our quarry.' For two years we dug
in an area no greater than twenty yards across, and yet at the
end of that time, when we must have removed many tons of
ice, we scarcely seemed to have scratched the surface of the
slope : such are the puny efforts of man !

' A quarter of an hour of hard delving with pick and shovel
each morning is sufficient to supply our daily needs ; the
sledge, loaded with ice-blocks, is towed back to the ship, and
the blocks are then carried on board and placed in a convenient
storage close to the main hatchway. The pile thus made is
kept well in advance of our needs in preparation for spells of
bad weather when digging may be impossible. Long before
the departure of the ice-diggers the cook's mate has been astir
with the galley fire alight and the coppers and ice-melters filled
so that by 8.30 the men's breakfast is prepared. By this time
all hammocks except those of the night watchmen are lashed
up and stowed away, and the linoleum-covered mess-deck has
been washed and cleared up. Breakfast is a very simple meal,
and consists always of a large bowl of porridge with bread and
butter and marmalade or jam. For a long time a hash or stew
was prepared, but as appetites fell off with our comparatively
confined life this was rarely touched, and is now practically
discontinued ; on the two mornings of the week when seal's
liver replaces the more ordinary meat, however, there is no
such abstinence ; everyone partakes of this excellent dish and
wishes heartily that the seal was possessed of more than one
liver.'

I may here mention that when we came to slaughter seals
for our second winter there was a strong temptation to kill
them for their livers only, and I think it is a creditable fact

2i8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

that we refrained from obtaining this luxury at a rate so
expensive to life, but confined ourselves to the due proportions
which fell to our share in treating the whole animal as food.

It is extraordinary how our liking for porridge grew upon
us ; we none of us cared much for it at first ; naval sailors
rarely do, and I believe it has lately been struck off the Hst
of food supplied to the naval service ; but with us the taste for
this excellent food grew ever stronger both with ofificers and
men, until we not only made our breakfast exclusively from it,
but decided to include the more easily cooked variety in our
sledge rations.

' After breakfast the mess-deck is again cleared up in
preparation for prayers at 9.15, after which the men are
assembled and told off for the work of the day, which is
arranged as far as possible so that each man gets his fair share
of the outside tasks.' I do not remember a time when there
was not a great amount of work to be done. During the latter
part of the first winter, and throughout the whole of the second
a large party were constantly employed on our sledging outfit,
making or repairing sleeping-bags, sledges, tents, cookers or
other details of equipment. Out of doors there was generally
some work in the digging line, either piling snow around the
ship or the huts, or digging out various objects which had
become buried, or making holes in the sea-ice for fish traps,
or freeing the entrances and the paths to and from the
huts, or many other lighter tasks. Then, again, the awning,
the chimneys of the stove, and many outdoor instruments
needed attention and repair, and few of our heavy winter
gales passed without creating some havoc which had to be
rectified.

' Dinner for the men is at one. This varies with the day,
but consists always of soup, seal or tinned meat, and either a
jam or a fruit tart. After dinner the rum is served out in
accordance with naval custom. I am not at all sure the men
would not be better without it, but perhaps some would feel
aggrieved if it was stopped, and the small daily allowance can
do little harm ; of course it will be stopped when the sledging

I902] MEALS AND PASTIMES 219

comes on. Smoking has been allowed on the mess-deck and
at all times since we entered winter quarters ; there are few
non-smokers, and no one who dislikes the smell of tobacco.
After two in the afternoon the men return to work until five ;
up to the present there has been enough to keep them going,
but if, as is probable, it falls off, I propose to leave their after-
noon free ; there is no object in making work. Supper is at
five ; a few with good appetites make up dishes out of what
remains of the tinned meats or seal left over from dinner, but
many confine themselves to bread and butter and tea, with
perhaps some jam or cheese. Those men who have not been
employed outside during the day take their exercise after
supper ; there is no constraint, but luckily the men are in-
telligent enough to appreciate the advantage of good health
and the benefit of a daily walk. There has been a difficulty
in this respect with regard to the cooks and stewards, whose
duties lie naturally inside the ship ; with a little thought, how-
ever, we have been able to arrange a routine by which each
has some spare time daily to devote to a walk abroad. In the
evening all the men are free, and a glimpse at the mess-deck
at such a time leaves the impression that the greatest comfort
and contentment reigns throughout. Many have some special
work in hand, such as wood-carving, netting, mat- making, &c.,
which serves to fill in the spare hours ; others play games or
read ; whist, draughts, and even chess are popular, and much
time is beguiled by a peculiar but simple game called " shove-
ha'penny." This pastime needs only a long board with num-
bers marked in squares at one end and a halfpenny, which is
placed on the edge at the other ; the coin is jerked along the
smooth board towards the numbers by striking the palm of
the hand against the edge of the board, and the player of
course scores the number at which the coin stops; whence
this game came I know not, but I think it must bear a strong
resemblance to the older pastime called " shovel-board." At
any rate at present it affords much amusement and produces
shouts of laughter ; tournaments are constantly held in this,
as well as in draughts and whist. At ten o'clock hammocks

220 THE VOYAGE OF THE ' DISCOVERY ' [April

are slung, and soon all are in bed and asleep ; only one or two
sleep in the daytime, and perhaps in consequence all sleep well
at night. There is no doubt that hammocks are far prefer-
able to the bunks at one time suggested for the men ; the
large clear space which is left when the hammocks are stowed
for the day is alone sufficient to prove this, but it is also certain
that a hammock is drier and more snug than a bunk would be
under our present conditions of life.'

Later in the year, on July i8, I note : ' During the darkest
days, when work was slack, nothing was done by the men after
their dinner, and I do not think anything is gained by making
work ; now that preparation for sledging has commenced, how-
ever, there is plenty to be done and perhaps it is better to have
such employment. Entertainments have been few and far
between, but have counted for something, and Hodgson,
Ferrar, and others have given little scientific expositions on
their special subjects which have proved very popular. It
was a very usual thing in the old Northern expeditions to hold
classes for school amongst the men, but in those days many
could not read or write ; with these accomplishments men are
able to amuse themselves, as we have proved, and the officers
have had the more time for their own in consequence. I have
endeavoured to suit everything to the requirement of the
moment, and was prepared if monotony and dulness crept in
to attempt to dispel them, but there has been no necessity ;
laughter and good cheer accompany warmth and comfort in
the crew space as well as aft in the wardroom, and all in all a
brighter or more contented company than ours it would be
difficult to conceive.'

' Reading on the mess-deck is of a very desultory character ;
Arctic books of travel are of course much sought after, simple
and popular histories are frequently read ; especially in request
are such books as " Fights for the Flag," " Deeds that Won the
Empire," and stories of the sea are much appreciated also.
Novels are not very popular, though Dickens and Marryat
find readers ; old magazines seem to go the round many times
and become much thumbed. Books of a quite different

I902] OFFICERS' ROUTINE 221

character from the above are often asked for, however ; last
week one man was deeply immersed in the " Origin of Species,"
another is studying navigation, and not a few have the evident
intention of improving themselves. There is a good deal of
writing as well as reading on the mess-deck, and the excellent
articles that have been contributed to the "South Polar Times,"
show that much that is written would be well worth perusal.
A goodly number of diaries are kept, some as personal records,
but others for transmission home to the most-thought-of in-
dividual. It is difficult to say for certain, but as one looks on
the cheerful, contented scene on the mess-deck at night, one
rather gathers the impression that the regular organisation of
lectures and entertainments would disturb rather than add to
the comfort of the community. Perhaps, however, a second
winter would necessitate more effort on the part of the officers
to amuse the men ; without doubt the novelty of the first
season counts for much.'

The contentment of the men was no transient condition
dependent on novelty such as at this time I surmised that it
might be. We afterwards settled down to our second winter
with even greater cheerfulness, and, far from finding such a life
monotonous and dreary, the men with the officers adapted
themselves with ease to its placid course.

' The officers' routine is somewhat different from that of the
men. Breakfast aft starts at nine and is concluded at ten ;
few are exactly punctual, but all have finished by the latter
hour. I'he breakfast meal itself is precisely the same as that
served to the men, as are all our other meals. I made this
rule at the start of the expedition, and it has been observed
ever since and will be observed throughout ; without subvert-
ing discipline, it silences complaint. Two or three months ago,
for instance, one of the few troublesome men in the ship, a
merchant seaman, asked to see me to complain of some cake.
When I appeared on deck he held a slice of cake in his hand
and plaintively informed me that it was not fit for human food.
I immediately sent down for a slice from a cake in the ward-
room which we had been eating with pleasure, and of course

222 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

found that the sHces were precisely similar. As a consequence
I could express my opinion of the complaint and its maker
with the utmost freedom, and proceeded to do so. That
officers and men should mess apart, and that the officers
should have the privacy of their cabins for their work, &c., is
all very right and proper, and marks a distinction which is in
the best interests of discipline ; but in other respects it is an
advantage on such an expedition as ours that all should share
the same hardships, and, as far as possible, live the same lives.
My rule does not of course apply to luxuries sent by officers'
friends, to wines, or to a few delicate but indigestible trifles
by which we increase the wardroom fare on the rare
occasions when we have a special dinner ; it is only a rule for
ordinary circumstances, and one which will receive great
extensions when we come to the hard sledging work that is
before us, for then officers and men must live and work alike in
every respect.

' From ten to two the officers have a good round interval
for the routine work of the day ; at two we have tea, the actual
beverage being accompanied with jam, cakes, and toast. The
latter is made at our own fire ; the bread is cut off in huge
chunks, and numerous patent toasting forks are brought into
action. The toast made, it is spread thickly with butter until
it is a sopping, dripping mass, suitable to nothing but a robust
appetite ; then the meal and the arguments begin, the latter
being pursued to such lengths that the clock usually shows
three before we break up. On the whole I think we all find
this the most enjoyable meal of the day. In the afternoon
those who have not been out already, start on their daily
exercise ; the rest melt away to their various tasks, self-imposed
or otherwise, and it is not until 6 p.m. that we all meet again
for dinner.

' This is the biggest and most formal meal of the day ;
each officer takes it in turn to be president for a week at a
time, and during his term of office sits at the head of the
table. Although we do not dress, we come as near to it as we
can with a general tidy-up of costume ; all are supposed to be

I902] THE WARDROOM MESS 223

seated before grace is said, and those who are not must duly
apologise to the president for their absence.

'The dinner which follows is the same as that which is
served to the men earlier in the day, though with us it is
served in courses on a comparatively clean, if not a white, table-
cloth. Few of us drink any alcohol, except possibly an occasional
glass of wine after dinner, or a small bottle of beer on Sunday
with our mutton. We have a supply of " sparklets " that
make excellent ginger-beer or lemonade, and some cider,
which is sometimes drunk ; but the total consumption of
alcoholic drink is ridiculously small, and that not from any
rule of living or example, but simply because no one seems to
have any appetite for it. The consequence is we have a great
deal of whisky and wine on board which will certainly never
be touched.

'After dinner the table is cleared, grace said, the wine
passed round, and the King's health formally drunk, when the
functions of the president cease. Whilst the latter is in office
the proprieties have to be observed on pain of a fine. No one is
allowed to contradict the president, no bets can be made, and
no reference-books can be consulted ; these limitations, with a
few others which are more rarely transgressed, cause a good
deal of amusement. Arguments are started on every imagin-
able subject under the sun, and the flattest contradictions are
given and returned ; as the president joins in the conversation,
the chances are that in the heat of debate someone will directly
traverse his statements or back his own opinion by saying, " I
bet you so and so " ; in either case his eager messmates call im-
mediate attention to his breach of etiquette, and he is promptly
fined " wine all round " ; no appeal is possible, and complaint is
met by an increase of the penalty. " Wine all round " doesn't
mean much in our abstemious community, but sometimes even
those who are practically teetotalers will relax to drink the health
of a hardened offender. After " The King " has been drunk there
is generally a rush for reference-books, and then a good deal of
twisting of position to suit the reference. Our reference- books
are fairly numerous, but (though we feel the lack of the

224 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

" Encyclopaedia Britannica ") the " Century Dictionary," the
Atlas, Haydn's " Dictionary of Dates," " Whitaker's Almanack,"
" Hazell's Annual," the " Statesman's Year Book," and some
others, provide an ample field for supporting one's own opinion,
refuting one's opponent, or at least for confusing the issue. I
am not sure we get much " forrader " by our heated discussions,
but it is a great deal better than being dull and silent ; we have
never yet sat through a meal without continual conversation,
and I hope we never may.

' Dinner is followed by an hour or two of recreation, dis-
cussion, or work, a go-as-you-please arrangement ; some finish
off their daily work, some write, some read, and some play
games. For some time now a game of " bridge " has been the
evening amusement ; five or six play, "cutting in " in the usual
manner. No doubt the popularity of " bridge " will wane as
has that of other games ; chess was played for a long while, and
will probably come to the front again. Most of us straggle off
to bed between eleven and twelve, but some, myself amongst
others, often stay up later. A few find that sleep does not
come at all uniformly, but for my own part I sleep like a top.

' Every Tuesday after dinner we have a debate in the wardroom.
I think Bernacchi first suggested this, and it was decided to
have a technical subject one week and a lay one the next.
The proceedings have always been very orderly, and throughout
the winter nearly everyone has attended, though now their popu-
larity is waning. On technical evenings we have discussed the
barrier, the climatic conditions, the prospects of getting east and
west, the seals, and the penguins, with results that have been
both instructive and amusing. There is so much in these sub-
jects that remains unexplained and mysterious that everyone
must gain fresh ideas from their free discussion ; of the barrier
we still seem to know all too litde, but that little is contrary to
preconceived notions, and the ideas it suggests are confused
enough to need sorting, if we are to continue our exploration
systematically in the spring. In the climatic conditions we
have yet to explain the astonishing differences of temperature
in different localities and with different winds, and to discuss

I902] DEBATES 225

methods by which we can get some notion of the snowfall and
evaporation in our region ; while with regard to seals and pen-
guins, we feel there is yet much to be learned as to their winter
habits, their breeding, and their migrations. In fact, our dis-
cussions, whilst helping to elucidate minor points in the
problems in debate, have served to set those problems more
clearly before us, and to indicate the manner in which we may
hope to arrive at their solution. People are so very genuinely
interested in all this that I think the lapse of enthusiasm in the
debates arises merely from the knowledge that we can only
hope to throw more light on the subjects by further exploration
and observation.

' The non-technical nights are of course devoted entirely to
amusement, and the subjects selected accordingly are such as
to encourage the most startling statements and lines of argu-
ment; thus we have had "The Trade of the Empire,"
" Conscription," &c., subjects on which, without knowing any-
thing, everyone can talk. Needless to say, such debates
generally end in more or less of an uproar.

'The day's routine for the officers gives four clear hours
before tea and three after; during these hours all without
exception are busily employed except for the hour or more
devoted to exercise ; the best time for this is now about noon,
but during the very dark days the moon was a potent influence
in fixing the time. In this, as in other matters, I have endea-
voured to avoid all irksome rules and regulations. The officers
are only too eager to go out for a breath of fresh air ; the men
have outside employment in fetching ice, tending their dogs,
taking observations, &c., and in fine weather need no spur to
be out and about with a football or on ski ; the only class for
which it has been necessary to make special arrangements are
the cooks and domestics, whose duties are apt to tie them to
the ship.

' My own time is taken up in organising the spring sledging,
drafting instructions, calculating weights, searching up references,
&c. ; it would be difficult for an outsider to understand what a
mass of detail this lands one in. I try also to keep touch with

VOL. I. Q

226 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

the work which is going on in the various departments, and am
endeavouring to do some physical work in connection with the
ice and snow which would otherwise be neglected ; but such
matters are attended with great difficulty to an untrained
observer, and it is only when one comes to make the attempt
that one finds that a simple experiment is almost an
impossibiUty ; every condition is complicated by outside
variable causes.'

To give an instance of what was evidently meant by this
paragraph I may mention that it was suggesied in our
'Antarctic Manual of Instructions' that a block of ice should
be suspended in the sea and its rate of increase in winter and
decrease in summer should be measured. Had we attempted
to do this, probably we should have arrived at an utterly false
conclusion, because in no two places would the result be the
same ; in one place, for example, the block would most cer-
tainly have disappeared early in the summer, whereas in
another it would have been diminished by little throughout that
season. This difference was dependent on the movement of
the sea-water, but it shows the impossibility of carrying out
experiments of this sort, however easily they may be conceived
in the quiet of an Enghsh study.

' I find time also to read up Arctic literature, of which I am
woefully ignorant ; most unfortunately, our library is deficient
in this respect, as owing to the hurry of our departure many
important books were omitted. We have Greely, Payer, Nares,
Markham, McClintock, McDougall, Scoresby, Nansen's
"Greenland," and a few others of less importance; but, sad to
relate, Nordenskjold, Nansen ("Farthest North"), and Peary
are absent, and two of these at least would have been amongst
our most valuable books of reference. Yesterday I was
pleasantly astonished to find that Wilson had some notes on
Nansen's "Farthest North," giving extracts of his sledge
weights, &c., and these may be of great use in calculating our
own weights.

' The work of the various officers is so distinct, and keeps
them so busily employed, that we rarely meet except at meal-

I902] WORK OF THE OFFICERS 227

hours and in the evenings. Armitage is reworking the
observations for position taken during the summer cruise, and
correcting his magnetic data. This is a very sedentary employ-
ment, but occasionally he is to be seen out on the floe with
the large theodolite taking star observations for the rating of
the chronometers — a very cold job, both for the observer and
for the timekeeper, in which capacity I sometimes attend.

' It is satisfactory to find that all four chronometers are
keeping a steady rate, notwithstanding that the temperature
in the chronometer-box frequently falls below freezing-point.
Every morning the clocks are set by the chronometer, so that
our daily routine is timed to the minute.

' Luckily Koettlitz has not much to do in connection with
his medical duties, as there is little sickness, but occasionally
there are wounds and cuts to be dressed and small ailments
to be doctored. In his daily walk he has undertaken the
important duty of reading the thermometer off Cape Armitage.
It is an instrument with a minimum indicator, and is attached
to a post about i^ mile from the ship. As I have before
remarked, even at this very short distance the common
difference of temperature between it and the ship's screen
is from 10° to 15°. There are regular duties in the medical
line which are of great importance, and which are shared by
the two doctors. Every tin of food has to be examined by
them after it is opened and before it is served out. This is no
light task when hours are considered ; for instance, Wilson has
to be out early to examine the milk for the day. Another self-
imposed duty of the doctors is to take weights and measure-
ments and examine the blood of everyone, fore and aft, once
during the month ; all the information thus obtained is tabu-
lated by Koettlitz, forming a very interesting record of the
changes in different individuals living more or less under
similar conditions.

' Soon after the first of each month in the evening we all
gather in the wardroom clad in pyjamas, and are put through
our paces as follows : Our weight is taken, and then the
measurement of chest, filled and empty, waist, calf, forearm

Q 2

228 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

and upper arm ; then, by means of a small spring instrument,
our power of grip with right and left hand is recorded, and
finally the capacity of our lungs is measured as we discharge
one long breath into the spirometer.

'This performance is an entertainment in itself, and bets
are freely offered and taken on the results, especially by those
who fondly hope for a smaller waist or a stronger grip.

' Generally on the following night the same scene is enacted
on the mess-deck, with the same display of chaff and good-
humour. One has but to cast one's eye over the records that
come from this quarter to realise what a splendid set of men
we have from the point of view of physique. Some turn the
scale at over 190 lbs., and several at over 180 lbs., without an
ounce of superfluous fat ; and though in some cases we can
equal the blowing powers of these individuals, we cannot
compete with their grips ; in fact, a specially strong instrument
is usually employed to prevent all chance of the ordinary one
being wrecked.

* The further monthly examination of our physical condition
consists in an examination of our blood. Our senior surgeon
goes to each individual in turn with a special needle and a
small test-tube ; the former is plunged into the finger of the
victim, and as the blood oozes out, it is drawn up and trans-
ferred to the test-tube. The first test is to dilute a given
quantity with water and to compare the resultant colour with
a standard ; water is added until the colours are equalised in
shade, and the richness of the blood is of course in proportion
to the quantity of water added. The next test is carried out
by putting a drop of blood on a graduated slide under the
microscope and counting the numbers of red and white cor-
puscles which lie in one square millimetre. To obtain samples
of blood from forty-five people and to examine them in this
manner takes a considerable time, and Koettlitz is kept ex-
tremely busy for some days. So far we have always published
the results of the examination as well as the weights and
measurements, principally because they display no sign of any
change in the general condition ; there has been a falling-off

1902] WORK OF THE OFFICERS 229

in weight in a few cases, but others have put on more than
the number of pounds lost ; measurements and strength have
shown merely slight fluctuations, but with few exceptions the
blood has grown richer. I have no clear idea as to what the
meaning of this may be, and I do not think that the doctor
has either, but we are inclined to look upon it as a hopeful
sign of our well-being.

'But to return to the manner in which our officers
pass their days. It would be difficult to say who is the
most diligent, but perhaps the palm would be given to
Wilson, who is always at work; every rough sketch made
since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and detailed
form until we now possess a splendid pictorial repre-
sentation of the whole coastline of Victoria Land. Wilson
starts his day early by an examination of the breakfast
food ; his next business is to see to the ventilation of the
living-spaces, which he does so thoroughly that when we
come to breakfast there is no complaint about the freshness of
the air, though occasionally people appear in fur mits as a
mute protest against the temperature. He next takes the
eight o'clock meteorological observations, and after the men
are told off for the work of the day his business takes him
to the superintendence of those who are detailed for bird-
skinning and who carry on this work in the main hut. Under
his direction a few of the men, and especially Cross, have
become quite expert taxidermists, and the collection of pre-
pared skins is gradually growing.

' The rest of his day is devoted to working up sketches and
zoological notes, making those delightful drawings for the
" South Polar Times," without which that publication would
lose its excellence, and performing a hundred and one kindly
offices for all on board. He and Shackleton generally journey
together to the top of Crater Hill, a height of 950 feet, each
day, and return with a record of the temperature at our second
outlying station. It is curious that although this temperature
is generally lower than that in the ship's screen, it is rarely as
low as that off Cape Armitage, and the fact almost seems to

230 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

point to an inverted temperature gradient over the great
ice-plain.

' The day starts early with Royds, our first lieutenant, also,
for he must be up to see the men started at their various jobs.
His special care is the meteorology, and the manner in which
he sticks to what might well be considered a monotonous task
is beyond praise. Rough or fine, every two hours from lo a.m.
to 8 P.M. he journeys forth on his round of observations.
Regularly each morning the fair record books are produced
on the wardroom table, and the rough observations of the
previous day neatly entered in their columns. With the care
of the ship's work, the maintenance of the various instruments
in good working order, and many a stray task, it can be
imagined that he has few idle hours. But one at least he
finds — that immediately before dinner, when he goes to the
piano and plays it, sometimes with and sometimes without
the aid of the pianola ; in either case we others in our various
cabins have the pleasure of listening to excellent music and
feel that the debt of gratitude we owe to our only musician
is no light one. This hour of music has become an institution
which none of us would willingly forego. I don't know what
thoughts it brings to others, though I can readily guess ; but
of such things one does not care lo write. I can well believe,
however, that our music smooths over many a rufifle and
brings us to dinner each night in that excellent humour, when
all seem good-tempered, though " cleared for action " and
ready for fresh argument.

* Shackleton is editor of our monthly journal, the " South
Polar Times " ; he is also printer, manager, typesetter, and
ofl?ice boy, and consequently a week before that publication
appears he is kept pretty busy. At slacker seasons he con-
ducts experiments to determine the salinity of the sea-ice and
the sea-water about the ship, sees that the dogs are properly
cared for, besides many other odd jobs, and at all seasons he
is responsible for the serving-out of provisions and for the
proper regulation of the cooking and general galley arrange-
ments.

1902] WORK OF THE OFFICERS 231

' Hodgson, our biologist, goes steadily on with his outdoor
work, and I think this is the first instance of dredging being
carried on throughout a polar winter. He is rather inclined
to scorn assistance, and seems almost to prefer to do everything
himself — the manual as well as the expert work connected
with his task. Lately he has accepted the assistance of a
single man, but it is currently reported that this individual is
required to look on whilst Hodgson digs, and much digging
and a great deal of preparation is necessary before the nets
can be actually used, so that it is only occasionally that a
frozen mass is borne into the wardroom, which, on being
thawed out, discloses the queer creatures that crawl and swim
on the floor of our polar sea. Hodgson tells me he had
expected to be obliged to devote the winter to working out
his summer catches, and that it was a pleasant surprise to
find that he could continue his collecting work during the
dark season. No doubt it is also an excellent thing for his
health, and he certainly remains surprisingly fit.

' Bernacchi up to the present has found plenty of employ-
ment in the care of his magnetic instruments ; in addition to
taking and developing the records, he has spent much time
in tending the heating lamps in the huts and in endeavouring
to render them more efficient. By banking up the principal
hut with snow he has been able to keep it at a more equable
temperature, but he tells me that even yet it is by no means
satisfactory, which I very much regret to hear, as we are
making very great sacrifices of oil in order that his lamps
should be kept going— sacrifices which would land us in an
uncomfortable predicament were we obliged to remain a
second winter. In Bernacchi's department are also included
electrometer, auroral, seismic, and gravity observations ; the
which leave him no time for other physical work. As far as
I can see at present, this is the point at which we are most
lacking; with such curious formations of land and sea ice
around us, we should possess a physicist and chemist who
could devote his time principally to the many curious
phenomena which they present.

232 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

' Of the lovers of fresh air, Barne is pre-eminent ; it seems
to bore him much to be cooped up on board ; at any rate, in
nearly all weathers he is out and about. He generally leaves
the ship early in the day with his own special sledge, on which
are mounted a sounding machine and a box containing re-
versible sea thermometers. With these he vanishes into the
darkness and rarely reappears much before dinner. It is
a curious sort of picnic life, and one which I imagine would
be appreciated by very few. With a few sticks of chocolate
in his pocket he journeys away to some distant crack or seal-
hole, and there with the assistance of a flickering lantern he
spends long hours, often in the intensest cold, letting down
a string of thermometers, laboriously winding them to the
surface, and recording the temperatures shown at the various
depths. Could a more uninviting task be imagined ? Indeed,
it is doubtful if it even possesses the advantage of being
useful. He sounds in depths of 200 to 400 fathoms, and
rarely gets differences of much more than a tenth of a degree
in the various layers, as naturally all the water in the strait is
close on the freezing-point or something under 29° F. There
will be interest, however, if we can continue the series when
the summer approaches.

* Unlike the other officers, our geologist, Ferrar, inhabits
a cabin at the fore-end of the ship, and there also is situated
his small laboratory, the only one that is habitable under
present conditions. Between meals Ferrar is rarely to be
seen, for his tasks are numerous. Out on the hillsides and on
the floes signs of him can be observed — here a line of sticks,
and there a few stones so weirdly disposed that one might
almost imagine they served some fetish or enchantment rather
than the object of discovering the physical conditions of our
surroundings. On board one may see a shaft of ice bending
under a weight with a notice, " Do not touch. — H. T. Ferrar."
Below one may find the officer himself, sorting a box of
geological specimens or polishing a section on his lapidary's
wheel, but always busy in some way or another. It is a
curious fact that I rarely meet Ferrar in my walks, and yet

I902] WORK OF THE OFFICERS 233

cannot speak of any feature of the numerous hill-slopes and
valleys about our winter quarters without finding out that he
knows it well.

' Skelton, our invaluable engineer, is also our photographer
in chief, and has had a great deal of work in sorting and
arranging the large numbers of photographs taken by various
members of the expedition ; the prints which he has already
managed to get together are extraordinarily interesting, and
if we can get good photographic results on our sledge journeys
our collection should be quite unique. But photography is
now the smallest part of Skelton's duties ; every officer in
every department has had need sooner or later to solicit his
services. The amount of mechanical work that is needed to
make good every defect in such an expedition as this is truly
surprising, and the work varies from the roughest to the most
delicate task ; without mechanical skill we should have been
hopelessly at sea, and it is not too much to say that the
majority of our scientific observations would have been
brought to a standstill. To give only a few instances of the
jobs which have been done of late sufficiently illustrates this
statement : a short while ago the clockwork of the Dyne's
recording anemometer refused to act, and it was found that
the hair-spring was rusted through ; the only spare escape-
ments were of a different pattern, but by drilling new holes
one was eventually fitted to the instrument, which has been
going continually since, though not of course at precisely the
same speed as it maintained before.

' Last week, again, Hodgson found that his implements
were unsuited to digging the slushy ice in his fishing holes.
The only possible remedy was to forge new ones on a fresh
design, and of course this was done. Quite lately our
engineering skill has been called on for an extraordinarily
delicate task connected with the cover of the gravity apparatus.
This cover is placed over the pendulums, and its metal flange
is supposed to rest so truly on the base that it forms an air-
tight joint when the space beneath the cover is exhausted ;
on trial of our instrument, however, it was found that the

234 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [April

joint was not true, and there was considerable leakage. How
the flange became strained is not known, but the delicacy of
bringing it into perfect truth again can be easily imagined.
Yet this has now been done, and the pendulums are being
swung as they should be in a good vacuum, which would
certainly not have been the case had we not possessed
engineering skill competent to deal with the situation. These
instances are only some of many ; all day long repairs, great
and small, pour in upon the engine-room department, and
one cannot exaggerate the importance of possessing a staff
which is capable of undertaking them.

' I have written much to-day concerning our daily life, but
as I proceeded it occurred to me to think of the view which
those at home would take of a party of their fellow men con-
demned to four months of darkness, and I have thought that
they would probably imagine a life in which there was a
maximum amount of sleep and little more activity than was
necessary for the preparation and consumption of food. How
far otherwise is the reality can be gathered herein, and to
explain this must be my excuse for carrying description to
such detail. Also, at home many no doubt will remember the
horrible depression of spirit that has sometimes been pictured
as a pendant to the long polar night. We cannot even claim
to be martyrs in this respect : our life seems in every way
normal ; with plenty of work the days pass placidly and cheer-
fully.'

Life throughout our polar winters ran so smoothly that
there was little to record from day to day but the changes of
weather and those trifling adventures and incidents which
loom so large at the moment, but diminish in importance as
they recede into the past. My diary presents a running
record of such circumstances and events, with here and there
some lengthy digression explanatory of the general conditions
under which we lived. It is difficult to extract from these
memoirs in connected fashion, and at the same time to
observe a chronological sequence of events, without falling to
some extent under the influence of the diary form, but in

I902] WEATHER CONDITIONS 235

adopting this form I shall suppress as far as possible the
repetition of entries which might weary the reader.

It can be readily understood, however, that what is usually
conceded to be an easily exhausted conversational topic, the
weather, was to us at this time a matter of extraordinary
importance. In this respect it has rarely, if ever, been the lot
of a polar expedition to be so unfortunately circumstanced as
we were, and consequently we had much that was novel in our
situation, even when the experiences of former expeditions are
considered. Almost without exception the North Polar winter
has been recorded as a period of quiescence, when, although
the thermometer has fallen to low limits, the atmosphere has
remained comparatively undisturbed ; but with us calm
weather was the exception, and we eagerly looked to take full
advantage of such breaks as occurred in the monotonous round
of windy days.

^ April 2P- — . • . Wind still blowing from the old quarter,
with temperature fallen to —27°.'

'' Alay 2. — ... A moderate breeze in the forenoon
developed into a southerly gale during the afternoon, and in
the evening it was blowing in furious squalls. Word was
brought down that the windmill was straining badly, although
it was feathered to the storm — a precaution which the engme-
room staff have been careful to take in good time since the
last breakdown ; at about 8 p.m. it snapped off short, and now
lies a wreck on the forecastle. So this is the last of our electric
light, though for some time it has seemed hopeless to expect
the system to work satisfactorily. It is some comfort to know
that this last breakdown could not have been prevented ; it
reveals a radical weakness in the windmill itself, and entirely
supports an opinion expressed to the expert who fitted it.

' Outside the snowdrift is so thick that one cannot see a
yard in front of one's face ; it is whirling and eddying about
the ship in such a manner that were one to lose touch of a
guide-rope he would be immediately lost. No one has been
outside for more than a few minutes, except the observers, and
to-night even they are not going beyond the ship. Five

236 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [May

minutes in the open is sufficient to powder one from head to
foot, and though the temperature is comparatively high, the
snow crystals lash so sharply in one's face that it is necessary
to protect it with a mit, and even thus there is imminent
danger of frost-bites. The awning is swaying about in the
most alarming manner — it seems a great question if it will last
the night ; the drift is almost as thick beneath it as outside.
The tops of the chimney-funnels have come off and gone
heaven knows where ; the result is a down-draught in the
chimneys which at first filled the living-spaces with choking
smoke until the fires were put out and skylights and doors
opened. The latter have now been closed again, and as we
sit in rather chilly comfort below we can hear the wind howl-
ing through the rigging and the awning flapping noisily in its
wild efforts to escape.

' Notwithstanding her icy surroundings one can actually
feel the ship give to the more furious squalls, and the tide-
gauge is moving up and down as much as five or six inches at
irregular intervals ; it looks as though the ice-crust of the strait
is depressed as the heavier gusts sweep over it. In spite of
the din without, the fireless condition within, and some anxiety
as to what we shall find missing after the gale, we have had
quite an interesting debate in the wardroom on " Women's
Rights " ; each man was allowed a period of twelve minutes
in which to set forth his views, and managed to cram into it
as much nonsense as he could think of in that space of time ;
even the married men felt that it was an occasion on which
they could speak with the utmost freedom.'

The gale continued throughout the whole of the 3rd. In
the short lulls we could see that the snow was drifting high
about the ship ; all our instruments had long been choked up ;
the temperature in the fireless living-spaces fell to 35°, outside
the thermometer stood at - 5°, but we had some comfort on
seeing the gradual accumulation of snow weigh down the
awning into a more secure position.

^ May 4. — The wind has gone to the S.E., and though
there is still some drift, we have been able to get out and

_^fi^m

Ir

WIND AND DKU^T.

1902] EFFECTS OF A BLIZZARD 237

observe the results of the gale. The first discovery was that
the strait was clear of ice within 150 yards of the ship, and
here, almost in the middle of winter, we find open water little
more than a couple of ships' lengths ahead of us. Not only
has all the ten-days-old ice gone, but a considerable portion of
that which was formed five weeks ago has broken away. I
once thought of the possibility of wintering in Arrival Bay ;
that place is now quite free of ice, and where we should now
be had we adopted that plan is beyond the power of guessing.
The snow lies in mountainous drifts around the ship ; from a
few hundred yards' distance she looks to be buried. On the
starboard and lee side the drift slopes down from the gunwale
itself, and on the port side it stands higher, but between it
and the ship there is a deep trench almost free of snow ; this
is always the manner in which snow drifts about an object.

' The meteorological screen has drifted up to six feet, and
somewhere far beneath the present surface lies the snow-gauge
— a fact that makes comment on the utility of that instrument
unnecessary. The Dyne's anemometers have been drifted up
since the earlier hours of the storm, and thus fail to record the
wind at exactly the time when such a record would have been
most valuable. On such occasions even the Robertson ane-
mometer seems unreliable, as the caps get partially filled with
the clinging snow-crystals. The awning is heavily weighted
with snow and sadly torn : the boats' crutches and other pro-
jections have made clean breaches in it. The windmill lies
an ugly wreck on the forecastle, and the shaft and standards
which still remain up look particularly forlorn. We cannot
yet get at the chimneys to repair them, and though the fires
have been restarted we get a plentiful supply of smoke in our
quarters.

' The dogs, or rather their kennels, were dug out this
morning and found none the worse ; we have lately brought
them from the shore and disposed them near the bows of the
ship, and luckily none were placed where the worst drifting
took place. It is evident, however, that the dogs do not like
the idea of being drifted up ; very few had used their kennels

238 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [May

during the storm, preferring to coil themselves down outside,
where they could break out when the weight of snow got too
great.

^ May 5. — We still have some wind from the eastward, but
curiously the temperature has gone up to +5'', so that it is
positively enjoyable to walk about outside. The storm has
buried the ice in the bay by about three feet on an average,
though the snow is very much deeper about the ship and close
to the ice-foot. It is strange that we had little or no warning
of this gale from the barometer, though the pressure fell during
the blow. Bernacchi found exceptionally high electrometer
readings as much as twelve hours before the wind came on ;
one wonders whether this instrument can be rehed on to give
warning of a blow — it would seem not altogether improbable.
The dogs have now got over their recent unclothed state and
have grown very thick, shaggy coats.'

Except when we said farewell to our winter quarters, I do
not think we ever had quite so heavy or so prolonged a gale
as that which has just been described. The wind swung
round also in a manner which gave all the indication of a re-
volving storm whose centre had narrowly missed us, and the
gale was followed by a result which we did not experience
again, or at least only to a much smaller extent. The tem-
perature remained extraordinarily high for several days after
the storm ; on one occasion it rose to -f 17°, and it was not
until the 9th that it fell again below zero, and then it fell
rapidly. On other occasions the temperature rose regularly
with a southerly wind, but fell when the wind dropped or
changed direction. The whole subject of this astonishing and
inexplicable wave of warm air is so interesting that it is well to
remember that the conditions under which it occurred were
not always precisely the same. With the warm air on this
occasion came a comparatively high degree of evaporation;
the drifts about the ship diminished rapidly as the snow settled
down and packed, and we could observe for the first time
some of the extraordinary conditions under which packed snow-
crystals adhere.

1902] A FASCINATING STUDY 239

' The snow has drifted and hardened against the side of
the magnetic hut, forming a coating from three inches thick at
the bottom to about one and a half inch at the top. For
some reason, possibly change of temperature, the inner surface
has been severed from the side of the hut, and the sheet has
gradually bent back until it described a complete semicircle.
A similar sheet curled back from the ship's stern shows her
name clearly impressed on its surface.'

Around the cape the gale had produced high under-cut
snow-waves or sastrugi, whose thin overhanging edges would
reverberate with a deep note when struck with a ski pole.
Again from the summit of each perpendicular ice-face there
were now single, double, and even triple cornices hanging in
graceful festoons, actually formed by the adhesion of the
whirling snow particles, but appearing to be formed by the
overflow of the white sheet on the slopes above. This ever-
changing condition of the snow was to many of us a fascinating
study ; it was not only that it lent to our walks a delightful
variety, but we realised that it had a highly practical bearing
on our sledge travelling. From start to finish of our journeys
we must haul our sledges over this fickle substance, and
according as its surface was hard or soft, sticky or clean, waved
or smooth, so must our progress be measured. Those who
have only seen snow under the soft, flaky guise which it
assumes in a temperate climate must find it difficult to ap-
preciate its infinite variety and bewildering changes under
more rigorous conditions, which even the sledge traveller,
whilst he is forced to appreciate, finds it impossible wholly to
explain.

' May 1 2. — Fine, calm day ; quite pleasant to be out in
the morning. In the afternoon the temperature fell to —37° ;
as it fell the calm stillness on deck was interrupted by the
continuous crackling of the contracting rigging, a succession
of sharp, clear reports like muffled rifle-shots. In such calm
weather, too, there are similar but intermittent reports at the
tide-crack ; as the water rises or falls with the tide the ice at
the edge appears to hang for several minutes and then to break

240 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [May

up or down suddenly, starting from one end of the bay and
running quickly through to the other with the sound of a
miniature cannonading. The western sky was very beautiful
this afternoon when I went for my walk after tea ; the hills in
deep shadow were sharply outlined against a background of
crimson, fading through saffron to pale green, which merged
into the slaty blue of a greater altitude. As the light failed
the stars shone forth wonderfully bright and clear. . . .

"■May 13. — For a wonder another fine day, temperature
down to —43°, the lowest we have had in winter quarters. It
is not the low temperatures that annoy, but the wind and foul
weather, and we should suffer few inconveniences if we had
not the latter to face so constantly. A party of four of us
went round to Seal Bay to examine the ice-ridges, where the
temperature was evidently much lower, though we had no
thermometer. Beyond the necessity of occasionally warming
our noses and cheeks, however, we were quite warm and
comfortable. We passed a seal blow-hole at which the owner
remained placidly breathing under a dome-shaped covering of
snow, even when the dogs barked and scratched the snow
down on his nose. There is not much light now, even at
noon, and by two it is quite dark. Can one hope that the last
few days of calmer weather are an earnest of better conditions
to come ? '

'■May 16. — Wind blowing harder than yesterday — in fact,
over forty miles an hour — with temperature down to —35°.
There is happily no sign of the ice breaking up again, but this
is scarcely in keeping with the more settled conditions hoped
for. Nobody is very anxious to be out : the wind cuts like
a knife at this temperature. Poor Bernacchi had a very bad
night, as it was his term-day, and he had to make several visits
to the hut, and got frost-bitten in consequence.

'■May 17. — . . . Had an alarming evening. The wind
having lulled this afternoon, the boatswain and second engineer
started off at 2.30 for a walk round Castle Rock, without giving
warning of their intention except by a few casual remarks
dropped in their mess. Later it came on to blow hard with

«Ti O

^-1

H Si
H

a

I902] AN ALARMING EVENING 241

heavy drift, but I was not informed of the absence of the men
till eight o'clock, some hours after their messmates had begun
to grow anxious. We immediately organised two search parties,
and having made elaborate plans and fully dressed ourselves
to face the elements, we stepped forth— to meet the absentees
returning over the gangway. It appears they had an idea that
our peninsula was an island, and started to walk round it.
Not finding the other end, they got farther from the ship than
they had intended, and then the drift coming on, they had to
feel their way along the land to get back, and so reached the
ship in a very exhausted and frost-bitten condition. There
must be no more of this casual wandering about.'

^ May J 9. — Still the never-ceasing easterly wind; the
barometer has risen very high, but, high or low, the wind
persists, lulling and rising, and again lulling and rising, till one
grows heartily sick of it.'

^ May 21. — . . . Wind from the eastward, increasing
during the day to a howling gale between five and nine. It
is curious how clearly I can hear the wind in my bunk at night.
Each gust is distinct as it shrieks through the rigging, and it
is not inspiriting to lay awake and think to this weird and
rather dismal accompaniment ; one begins to wonder whether
it ever will be calm again. On the other hand, as the sound
is precisely that of a storm at sea, one cannot but take great
comfort in reflecting how infinitely pleasanter it is to listen to
it under such restful conditions rather than when tossed about
on the mountainous seas of the Southern Oceans. Overhead
to-day it is calm and bright, with peculiar luminous cirro-stratus
cloud towards the south, but for some feet from the surface
the air is thick with driving snow. How used we are getting
to the sound of this driving snow ! I seem to have heard the
same as the dust was swept along a hard, sandy road ; it is
almost like the patter of hail ; to all intents and purposes our
snow is fine sand.'

^ May 22. — A day of hard wind, ending in a beautifully
fine calm moonlight night. We all went out in the evening,
and in the clear silvery light were able to see about us for the

VOL. I. R

242 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [May

first time for many days. The scene was perfect in the pale
white hght and silence. Later there was a curious effect of
frozen fog ; the nimbus cloud seemed to descend on the hills
and roll over us, leaving the ship free, but though all around
us was clear, there was a heavy deposit of ice-crystals on masts
and ropes which shone and sparkled in the moonlight. Now
the ship looks spectral in her white shimmering robe, the mist-
clouds are rolling down the hillsides into the snow-covered
hollows, and a strong wind can be heard high above us, though
all below is calm. The whole scene is so weird that it gives
one a positively eerie feeling.'

The foregoing extracts show how persistently the wind
annoyed us about this time, and, indeed, so matters continued,
with occasional calms, when we could enjoy our outdoor
strolls, and occasional gales from the south, when, though the
temperature rose comparatively high, it was unsafe to venture
far from the ship.

^ May 31. — Temperature abnormally high ( + 8°). Went
well out over the ice to the westward, where the recent snow-
fall has improved the surface for ski ; found three seals up on
the ice, the first that have ventured up for a long time. In the
cold weather they never seem to quit the water ; evidently
they know when the thermometer rises. It is now pretty dark,
even at noon, and dismal enough when the fine snow is
driving past and the sky overcast. Regret to say one of the
dogs, "Paddy," was found dead this morning. A post-mortem
revealed a deep wound in his side, and when "Nigger,"
acknowledged king of the pack, approached with the most
innocent air and wagging tail, and it was found that he must
have slipped his collar in the night, there was little difficulty
in guessing the cause of the disaster and fixing the guilt. The
curious thing is that " Paddy " appeared to be " Nigger's " sole
and only friend ; their kennels were adjacent, and as " Paddy "
was always content to play second fiddle, there seemed no
chance of a rupture. The deed must have been done in the
silent hours of the night, and alas ! we shall never know the
cause. There is nothing to be done but to bore an extra hole

1902] WINTER CLOTHING 243

in " Nigger's " collar. I trust we are not to lose more of our
dog team ; this is the second loss since the winter set in, as
poor " David " died last Sunday from causes unknown.

' I do not think it would be possible to take more care of
the dogs than we do. Each dog has his own particular master
among the men, and each master seems to take a particular
delight in seeing that his animal is well cared for. The most
thoughtful are constantly out building extra shelters, covering
the kennels with sacking, and generally endeavouring to make
their charges comfortable.'

'■June 2. — . . . As far as winter conditions are concerned,
our clothing arrangements are satisfactory, and although the
outlay in this direction was heavy, the excellent quality of our
garments fully justifies it. Practically men and officers
are clothed alike, such minor differences as exist serving
only as a useful distinction of costume on board the ship, and
not signifying any difference in the quality or comfort of the
garments worn by either.

' Everyone wears the thick warm woollen drawers and vests
supplied by the expedition, and over these a flannel or woollen
shirt and pilot-cloth trousers. On board the ship the outer
upper garment of the men is a dark woollen jersey, but that of
the officers a brown " cardigan " jacket. Some of the more
chilly individuals put on an extra waistcoat, but few wear the
thick jacket which is supplied with the pilot-cloth trousers,
the jersey or cardigan giving excellent freedom to the limbs
and movements. The men's jerseys come well up around the
throat, and they need no additional neck protection ; but the
officers wear a variety of comforters or scarves, or sometimes a
flannel collar. Dressing for dinner is a more or less punctilious
performance, and generally means the donning of the Sunday
cardigan and neck-scarf.

' For ship wear there are some warm, comfortable slippers
provided for both officers and men, but many prefer to remain
in their Russian felt boots. These were especially obtained
from Russia at a very small cost, and are perhaps the most
satisfactory foot-wear we possess for general purposes, now

244 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [June

that we have modified them to suit our requirements. The
modification consists in adding a sennet sole made from
ordinary spun yarn and secured to canvas which is closely
fitted and sewn to the boot ; by this device the felt of the boot
is protected from wear, and our people are able to do a great
deal of work both inside and outside the ship in this comfort-
able foot-gear. The only drawback is that when it is snowing
or drifting the fine powdery snow clings to the felt, and on
being brought into the living-spaces melts and wets the boots.
Even in fine weather this happens to the sole, and for the sake
of the boot it is really wiser to change before going out of
doors. For walking abroad or climbing over rocks these boots
are not well adapted, though there are individuals who from
perversity or laziness continue to wear them for the purpose ;
the majority, however, change their foot-gear when they leave
the immediate neighbourhood of the ship.

' English leather boots were soon found to be far too
chilling to wear on such excursions, though better adapted to
climbing over the sharp, jagged rocks than anything we
possess ; but for a long time we clung to the Norwegian
leather ski boot, which is a looser and easier fit, and therefore
allows a much freer circulation in the foot ; in fact, ski boots
are still worn, and in some cases have been fitted with a
stouter sole by the cobbHng abilities of that excellent man-of-
all-trades, Lashly. But most of us have by this time taken to
wearing fur boots on our walks abroad, and now that we can
always dry them on our return they are the most warm and
comfortable foot-gear imaginable ; the only trouble is that they
wear out rapidly, especially on the sharp, stony, hillsides, and
as we may need many pairs for our sledge journeys we cannot
afford to be too lavish in serving them out during the winter.

' These fur boots are made of selected reindeer skin and
sewn with gut ; the sole is made from the covering of the fore-
head both on account of the thickness of the pelt in this part
and also to obtain the twist in the growth of the hair which
gives the boot a better chance of gripping on a slippery surface ;
the upper part of the'boot is made from neck-pieces and is soft

I902] FOOT-GEAR 245

and pliable. Already we see that our stock varies greatly in
quality, and that for our sledge journeys we shall have to make
a most careful selection ; but by wearing them now we are
gaining experience of what constitutes a good boot, which is
not at all the sort of fact that can be discovered at the first
glance. Some officers and men have already resoled their
" finneskoes," as these fur boots are called, with sealskin, but
it is doubtful if there is much wear in the latter, though it is
thick and hard ; however, it is interesting to try the purposes
to which the natural productions of our desolate region can be
put, and it is to be hoped that our sealskin will be available
for something more useful than the leggings, tobacco pouches,
and knife sheaths which have so far been made from it.'

I may add that we never found this sealskin of much use :
it was far too weak and brittle. Though possibly we were not
very expert in preparing it, it may be added that similar skins
landed in Dundee some years ago were found to be practically
valueless for the purposes for which the skin of the Northern
hair-seal is employed. I do not know the reason for this fact,
but it is evident that it should go far to ensure a peaceful exist-
ence to the Southern seal.

' Everyone is provided with a complete suit of wind cover-
ing for outdoor wear, and a second suit is held in readiness for
sledging. This is made of a thin waterproof gaberdine material
suppHed by Messrs. Burberry, and will doubtless be excellent
for our sledging, but for constant winter wear it is not adequate,
and already we have strong regrets that we do not also possess
suits of a thicker, tougher material. A light canvas would be
just the thing for this rough winter wear, though it might
become too stiff and icy on a sledge journey. It would have
been better also and cheaper had we brought the material
only, instead of the made-up garments, for our wind clothing ;
both officers and men can ply a needle more or less handily,
and although everyone conforms to the same general cut of
trousers and blouse, each has his own ideas in matters of
detail, concerning the collars and cuffs, &c. It is doubtful if
the original making of garments would have taken much more

246 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [June

time than the very numerous alterations that have been made
to suit individual taste, and even if it had, there is now ample
opportunity for such work.

'The necessity of continually facing a blighting wind is
calling forth original genius and inventive talent in devising
a headgear which shall protect one's necessarily exposed
features. Our helmets are made of a thick fleecy material
woven of camel's hair, which is satisfactory enough for winter
wear, though many of us are not in favour of it for sledging.
When buttoned across, this helmet comes low on the forehead
and circles round over the chin and close under the mouth,
leaving only the cheeks and nose exposed ; but in a cold wind
it takes all one's time to keep even these members from being
frost-bitten. At first talent was devoted to finding some
practicable form of ' nose-nip,' a semi-attached piece which can
be disposed to cover the nose and cheeks in windy weather,
but in spite of all efforts the same difficulty always arises : one's
breath is caught as it ascends and freezes on it, gradually
accumulating until one's face is covered with a mass of ice.
The same drawback is found to occur to a greater degree with
any form of face-mask. A new departure is now being devel-
oped by which a sort of blinker is placed on each side ot
the helmet, and each bhnker is capable of being pushed for-
ward according to the direction of the wind.'

The development of this new idea finally put us in posses-
sion of a device which proved really admirable, and which I
can confidently recommend to expeditions that may be called
on to face equally windy conditions. A light peak about two
or two and a quarter inches deep, constructed of gaberdine
stiffened with canvas, was carried across the forehead and down
on each side of the face well below the chin, and attached to
the edge of the helmet aperture ; in its ordinary position, it lay
flat back against the helmet, but either side could be thrust
forward separately, or both together. The beauty of this
device was that with the wind on either side one had but to
push forward the guard on that side to obtain shelter, whereas
if the wind was ahead one pushed forward both sides and,

I902] JACK AND HIS KIT 247

securing the lower edges together, obtauied a funnel-shaped
protection which held the air immediately in front of the face
in comparative rest. With a very strong wind and a low
temperature, no possible device can prevent frequent frost-
bites, but this one went a long way towards mitigating the
evil, and it had also the advantage that by peering beneath the
guard of a companion, one could readily tell if the frost had
attacked him.

' We find not only that furs are unnecessary for winter
wear, but cannot imagine that they would be otherwise than
positively objectionable. It is reported that some of the old
Arctic expeditions wore furs ; the mess-deck under such con-
ditions cannot have been very attractive. We wear furs only
on our feet and hands, the latter are also protected by excellent
woollen half-mits, which extend from the knuckles nearly to the
elbow; armed with these and with one's fists thrust into a
lined fur mit, one's hands may be comfortable in any weather.
We have also excellent felt and woollen mits, which the men
use for outdoor work. Should the wind get through these, the
best plan is to wet them, as the ice forms the best possible
protection.

' I regret to say that the clothing issue displays the fact
that the sailors are extremely careless of their clothes ; they
seem to have an idea that there is an unhmited stock of socks,
mits and such like, and have an obvious contempt for the
" stitch in time." Of course there are the few careful ones by
whom the others can be judged. More than once I have had
to speak seriously about the wasteful use of food, clothes, and
various articles of our equipment, but I am bound to confess
that my words have not had any great result ; in fact, even the
cutting off of supplies does not seem to have any lasting effect.
One may well wonder whether, in any circumstances, it would
be possible to alter their happy-go-lucky-nature. On the other
hand, such a nature has its obvious advantages. One knows
with these men that their resource will always be equal to the
occasion, and even if they run short of clothing, one has a
feeling that they will manage somehow.'

248 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [June

*/une lo. — ... In considering the excellent manner in
which we are getting through the long winter and the good
health enjoyed by all, the share which our material comforts
have had in the result must not be forgotten. We have fresh
well-baked bread continuously, seal-meat three times a week,
pies and other dishes of tinned meat three times, and fresh
mutton once. To this is added a good supply of butter, milk,
cheese, jam, and bottled fruits, whilst cakes are constantly
made for all. There is, of course, a certain amount of same-
ness in the diet, and preserved foods are more likely to become
wearisome than fresh, and of course, also, appetites are tending
to grow fastidious from the inactive life ; but, taking it all in
all, the food is quite good enough to tempt us to eat a sufficiency,
whilst, as may perhaps be equally fortunate, it is not so
attractive as to leave us with any desire to take more than that
sufficiency. The main point is that we all seem to thrive well
on it. Perhaps the articles we miss most are fresh vegetables ;
tinned vegetables are always a poor substitute, and with the
exception of the potatoes ours are unfit for food. Our preserved
potatoes are as good as such things can be, but the best pre-
served potatoes are dull and uninteresting. The greatest
drawback to the galley productions, however, is the cook.
We shipped him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our
trained cook became too big for his boots, and the exchange
was greatly for the worse ; I am afraid he is a thorough knave,
but what is even worse, he is dirty — an unforgivable crime in a
cook. I think if the men were free to deal with him it would
be " something slow with boiling oil " ; but, alas ! one cannot
be rid of the most undesirable in this far-off land : one is
forced to make the best of a bad job. Luckily, he is a com-
paratively isolated blemish. Luckily, also, our cook's mate is
a good man and an excellent baker ; it is he who provides us
with our good bread and toothsome cakes.'

^/une 12. — . . . We keep a very regular weekly routine;
each day has its special food and its special tasks, and as far as
possible we stick to what the sailor calls " man-of-war fashion."
The week's work ends on Friday ; Saturday is devoted to " clean

1902] SUNDAY ROUTINE 249

ship," and though we don't polish bright work, we do our share
of scrubbing. In the forenoon the living-spaces are thoroughly
cleaned, lockers and other articles of furniture are moved, holes
and corners are searched, and whilst the tub and scrubber
hold sway, the deck becomes a " snipe marsh." At this time
also the holds are cleared up, the bilges pumped out, the upper
deck is " squared up," and a fresh layer of clean snow is
sprinkled over that which has been soiled by the traffic of the
week. On this follows a free afternoon for all hands, and after
dinner in the wardroom the toast is the time-honoured one of
" Sweethearts and Wives."

' On Sunday we don a different garment ; it need not
necessarily be a newer or cleaner one— the thing is for it to be
different from that which has been worn during the week. By
9.30 the decks have been cleared up, the tables and shelves
tidied, and the first lieutenant reports " All ready for rounds."
Then follows a humble imitation of the usual manof-war walk-
round Sunday inspection, and in solemn procession we pass
through the now empty mess-deck and on to the other in-
habited parts of the ship. I am more than ever convinced
that this routine is an excellent thing ; not only has it the best
effect on the general discipline and cleanliness of the ship, but
it gives an opportunity of raising and discussing each new
arrangement that is made for the better comfort of all on
board.

' After the inspection of the ship comes that of the men,
who are fallen in under the awning on deck. Though it is
only possible to see them in the rays of the flickering lan-
tern which the boatswain bears ahead of me, I see enough
to assure me of the general good health and cheerfulness
of the company. Then come the only military orders of
the week. The first lieutenant says, " Front rank, one pace
forward — march." We pass between the ranks, and the men
are dismissed.

' After this the mess-deck is prepared for church ; har-
monium, reading-desk, and chairs are all placed according to
routine, and the bell is tolled. The service is read by me,

250 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [June

the lessons by Koettlitz, and Royds plays the harmonium.
As he plays it extremely well, the responses are chanted and
the three hymns are so heartily sung that I have no doubt
they could be heard far over the floe. Service over, all stand
off for the day, and look forward to the feast of " mutton,"
which is also limited to Sunday ; by using it thus sparingly the
handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should last us till
the early spring. But it is little use to think of the sad day
when it will fail ; for the present I must confess that we always
take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites on
Sunday.'

^ June 15. — ... It would be idle to say that we live in
complete comfort below ; perhaps it is as well that there
should be difficulties to overcome. We have several weak
places as regards damp and cold ; the mess-deck is the best
part of the ship ; except for a little damp on the side there is
not much to complain of; but the wardroom in general, and
the after cabins in particular, are not so happily situated. We
can now see that our insulation scheme is very imperfect.
The upper deck is lined with asbestos, and is satisfactory ; but
the ship's side is not lined, and wherever the bolts come
through the region inside is covered with a hard, spiky mass
of ice. This ice accumulates in time, especially in the region
of the bunks, and lately several people have had literally to
chip out their mattresses, which were solidly frozen to the
ship's side. At the after-end of my cabin there is an iron
bulkhead ; it is lined with asbestos, but I imagine the latter
must have slipped down, as the whole bulkhead inside is a
solid mass of ice. Another very stupid arrangement is the
plan of the small cabin deck-lights ; these are made in a single
metal casting, with double glasses ; of course the metal forms
a free conductor between the outside and in, and the fitting is
consequently a natural ice-trap.

' But the worst feature of the wardroom is the deck below
it, which has no lining, and out of which the caulking has
fallen into the bunker. Except for the linoleum on top there
is little in this floor to protect us from the temperature of the

1902] DEFECTIVE INSULATION 251

bunker, and the latter, being in direct communication with the
engine-room and thence with the open air, is always consider-
ably below freezing-point. As a consequence of this we get
very cold draughts in the wardroom, and a thermometer placed
on the deck anywhere but near the stove falls to 32° or 34°.
A week or two ago it was so bad that I was obliged to sit in
my cabin with my feet in a box of hay, an efficient but incon-
venient foot warmer.

' Before the gale in May, when we had no snow about us,
the ship was getting very badly iced up inside, but after that
gale we were able to improve matters, and now they are a good
deal better. At the end of April the temperature in my cabin
averaged about 40° during the daytime and 33° during the
night, a condition under which one was not tempted to dawdle
over the processes of dressing and undressing ; now the tem-
perature keeps up to nearly 50°, except near the floor, where it
is much colder. The course of improvement was accompanied
by much thawing, and for some time we had a general dripping,
which was much worse than the ice and infinitely more ruinous
to our effects, amongst which mildew is already making rapid
strides. In this way, as in others, we have had to buy our
experience, and since May we have been fighting the evil by
banking up snow without and by nailing up quantities of felt
within.

' The most difficult place to fight is the galley-space, because
here it is impossible to avoid the volumes of steam given ofif by
the cooking ; directly this steam strikes against the cold sides
of the compartment it condenses, and during cooking-hours this
space is very much like a shower bath. We have improved
matters a little by trying to guide the steam up through the
skylight, but the place is still very bad.

' Our stoves have also been a source of trouble to us, and
are likely to continue to be so. They are of the slow-combus-
tion type, designed to burn anthracite coal, and though it was
claimed that they would be equally efficient with our steaming-
coal, we find that to burn it at all we must greatly increase the
draught, and consequently we do not achieve the economy of

252 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [June

fuel we expected. Under the impression that we should
require them whilst magnetic observations were being taken on
board, they were made of phosphor bronze (a non-magnetic
material), and we now find that this metal burns so easily that
one stove is already practically destroyed, and the other is in a
bad way ; luckily we have spare ones which are made of iron.
But the worst trouble in this connection is perhaps not so much
the fault of the stove itself as of the chimney ; we find that
with certain directions of wind it is impossible to avoid a down-
drai^ght, and directly the wind turns to this quarter we have to
draw fires with all speed and remain fireless till the weather
becomes more favourable.

' But the stove arrangement has its good points as well as
its bad : it is satisfactory to find that we can do well with a
single stove in each compartment instead of the two that were
originally fitted, and the flat stove itself, with its broad grate
and transparent talc windows not only forms a very cheerful
object, but affords an excellent toasting surface, and as we
gather round it before our cheerful midday tea we are not
inchned to quarrel with its shape.

' It is laid down by Parry, I think, that no artificial ventila-
tion is necessary in a ship wintering in polar regions, as the
difference in temperature without and within is sufficient to
cause a speedy interchange of air through the cracks or on the
opening of doors. Such a dictum would hold at a time when
it was exceedingly difficult to make a ship tight, and no doubt
it would hold also in the present condition of the " Discovery" ;
but if our decks had been thoroughly caulked some form of
air inlet would have been necessary, and an ideal living-space
for polar regions should certainly possess a ventilating system
capable of regulation and an entire freedom from casual
draughts. An efficient ventilating system, however, is a difficult
thing to provide in a ship at the best of times, and under polar
conditions there are many circumstances which tend to increase
the difficulty.'

As ventilation must always be a subject of serious con-
sideration to polar explorers, it may be of interest to describe

1902] HEATING AND VENTILATION 253

the somewhat ingenious system which was fitted in the
' Discovery,' and to point out in what respects it failed.

The idea was that fresh air entering should pass into a
chamber and there become warmed by a small stove before
entering the compartment ; the vitiated air was to be drawn
up through the exhaust which surrounded the funnel of the
ordinary heating stove, the heat of the funnel being expected
to cause an up-draught. Of course, in addition to the air
passing out at the exhaust under this system, a large volume of
air would have to enter to supply the combustion of the stoves,
but as long as there was an up-draught through the exhaust
the heated vitiated air in the upper part of the compartment
would be drawn off. When we found that we obtained suffi-
cient heat from the ordinary stove alone, much of the theoretical
benefit of this scheme vanished. With changes of wind we
had often to contend with practical dififiiculties, and there were
times when the system was the object of universal contumely.

The question of fresh air and ventilation was one which
afforded us a constant field for argument, and even our
medical officers were divided in opinion, one making a bold
stand for equable warmth, whilst the other contended that at
all costs the purity of the air we breathed should be assured.
In consequence of this, the community was divided into two
camps, for and against the opening of the skylights ; and as
the members of each camp were desirous of arranging matters
to suit themselves, the skylights were constantly frying up and
down until a compromise was effected. It was decided that
the skylight and the door of the companion should be opened
every morning at 7.30, and not closed until the air in the
compartment was thoroughly renewed, and that after that hour
it should only be opened by general consent, and should the
temperature rise above 60°.

^Jufie 23. — We kept our mid- winter festival to-day, as
yesterday was Sunday, and the ship has been en fete. The
mess-deck was gaily decorated with designs in coloured papers
and festooned with chains and ropes of the same material,
the tables were loaded with plum puddings, mince pies, and

254 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [June

cakes, mostly of home manufacture, but none the less
" Christmasy " in appearance. It seems that there has been
quite a rivalry amongst the messes with respect to their adorn-
ment, and the results which have been achieved with little
more than brightly coloured papers, a pair of scissors, and a
paste pot are really quite astonishing. On each table stands
some grotesque figure or fanciful erection of ice, cunningly
lighted up with candles from within and sending forth shafts of
sparkling Hght.

' At 12.30, when all was ready, I went round in procession
with the officers, exchanging greetings for the season and
accumulating sweetmeats, cakes, and such dainties, offered
by each mess as a tribute of good will, and incidentally an
evidence that we possess no inconsiderable amount of con-
fectionery talent. Next came the unpacking of a large box
of presents provided by the kindly thought of Mrs. Royds, the
mother of our first lieutenant, and the distribution of these
and other Christmas gifts sent by friends in the Old Country
to gladden our winter season. Everyone was remembered,
and with all in high spirits the distribution occupied the time
with jest and laughter, until we left the men to enjoy their
Christmas fare with an extra tot of grog.

' At six we had our dinner in the wardroom, with the table
decorated and the display of all our plate. Starting with turtle
soup, we passed on to a generous helping of mutton, and from
that to plum pudding, mince pies, and jellies, all washed down
with an excellent dry champagne. With a largely assorted
dessert of crystallised fruits, almonds and raisins, nuts, &c.,
came the port and liqueurs, which brought us into good form
for the enthusiastic speeches that followed. With such a
dinner we agreed that life in the Antarctic Regions was worth
living, and those who didn't make speeches felt that they must
sing ; and starting with " For he's a jolly good fellow," twice
repeated, the evening continued with a regular " sing-song,"
when everyone, regardless of talent, had to contribute some-
thing for the common entertainment. One could not help
wondering what would have been the feelings of those

1902] MID-WINTER DAY 255

sympathetic friends who imagined the polar night to be filled
with gruesome horror, had they been permitted a glimpse of
this scene of revelry.

* In the early hours we went out to cool our heated brows.
It was calm and clear, and the full moon, high in the heavens,
flooded the snow with its white, pure light ; overhead a myriad
stars irradiated the heavens, whilst the pale shafts of the
aurora aiistralis grew and waned in the southern sky. It was
sacrilege to disturb a scene of such placid beauty, but for man
it was a night of frolic, and as the dogs quickly caught the
infection, the silence was soon broken by a chorus of shouts
and barking which was continued long after the bare ears and
fingers should have warned their possessors that the tempera-
ture was nearly into the minus thirties. Eventually even
exuberance of spirit was forced to give way to rapidly growing
frost-bites, and we retired within to contemplate, rather sadly,
our extremities swelling as they thawed. Clearly under no
conditions can one play tricks with our climate.

' We are half-way through our long winter. The sun is
circling at its lowest ; each day will bring it nearer our horizon.
The night is at its blackest ; each day will lengthen the pale
noon twilight. Until now the black shadow has been
descending on us ; after this, day by day, it will rise until the
great orb looms above our northern horizon to guide our
footsteps over the great trackless wastes of snow. If the
light-hearted scenes of to-day can end the first period of
our captivity, what room for doubt is there that we shall
triumphantly weather the whole term with the same general
happiness and contentment ? '

256 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

CHAPTER IX

WINTER PASSING AWAY

Our Settlement in Winter — The Large Hut — Lighting Arrangements on
Board — Prevention of Fire — A Night on Duty— Smoking Habits —
The 'South Polar Times' — Aurora Australis— Mishap to our Boats
— Moonlight Effects— Lost in a Blizzard — Theatrical Entertainments
— Nigger Minstrels — Increase of Light— New Arrivals — Concerning
the Dogs — Return of the Sun — View from our Hills — Walks in Day-
light— Preparations for Sledging — Ready to Start.

Here Winter holds his unrejoicing court,

And through his airy hall, the loud misrule

Of driving tempests is for ever heard. — Thomson.

Morn
Dawns on this mournful scene, the sulphurous smoke
Before the icy wind slow rolls away,
And the bright beams of frosty morning dance
Along the spangling snow. — Shelley.

^July 18. — . . . The moon has greatly favoured us this winter
by achieving its full dimensions during its monthly stay above
our horizon ; or, in other words, the full moon has approxi-
mated with its most southerly declination. The clear outline
of the hills, the cold blue of the sky crowded with brilliant
stars, and the luminous sparkle of the snow make our moonlit
days more beautiful than can be easily imagined. I have just
returned from a walk around the settlement, when the moon
to the south was yellowed by the mysterious noon twilight and
the northern sky was a flame of crimson. One dresses with
care even on these calm days, knowing that the thermometer

1902] OUR SETTLEMENT IN WINTER 257

stands low and that there will be a keen bite in the lightest
flickering puffs of air. Well protected, therefore, one closes
the wardroom door on the bright yellow light and com-
fortable warmth within, and climbs the steep ladder to the
entrance porch. These porches, with their double doors and
insulated sides, are eminently satisfactory, and although they
are thickly crusted with ice inside, and have occasionally to be
chipped out, they save us from the keenest draughts and give
space in which the snow of the outer world can be shaken off
by those who enter. On arriving on deck one treads carefully
over its soft snow covering, for here, beneath the winter
awning, the gloom is deep, obstacles are numerous, and
although fur boots may be an excellent protection against the
cold, they are but a poor one against the sharp corner of a
hatchway or the business end of a pick-axe ; and indeed one
is lucky if one reaches the flap-door of the awning without
coming into violent collision with some obstacle, and feeling
tempted to use equally violent language concerning the person
or persons unknown who have unwittingly prepared the trap.
From the ship's starboard or inshore side a gangway of stout
poles and planks slopes to a snow platform, and is fitted with
battens and guard rails, from the ends of which one guide rope
supported on poles leads sharply to the right towards the
meteorological screen, whilst the other shows the way to a
cutting on the ice-foot, whence an easy path leads to the rocky
patches on which stand our little group of huts. The main
hut is of most imposing dimensions and would accommodate
a very large party, but on account of its size and the necessity
of economising coal it is very difficult to keep a working
temperature inside ; consequently it has not been available for
some of the purposes for which we had hoped to use it. One
of the most important of these was the drying of clothes ; for
a long time the interior was hung with undergarments which
had been washed on board, out all these water-sodden articles
became sheets of ice, which only dried as the ice slowly
evaporated. When it was found that this process took a
fortnight or three weeks the idea was abandoned, and the
VOL. I. s

258 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

drying of clothes is now done in the Hving-spaces on board.
A drying-room would be an excellent thing to have on a polar
expedition, and had the space under our forecastle been
properly insulated and fitted with a stove it might well have
served the purpose. As it is, with the present system, the
dampness of the living-spaces must be increased, though,
curiously enough, we do not notice it. We have erected long
clothes-lines on each side of the wardroom, which carry a full
exposi of our clothing economy, but whatever is ludicrous in
this Arcadian simplicity, whatever is incongruous with the
more artistic background, we have long ceased to notice. We
find that we can eat our dinner with the usual regard to the
forms of social politeness even when seated beneath our socks
and nether garments.

' But although the hut has not fulfilled expectation in this
respect, it is in constant use for other purposes. After the
sledging it came in handy for drying the furs, tents, &:c. ; then
it was devoted to the skinning of birds for a month or more, a
canvas screen being placed close around the stove, whereby a
reasonable temperature was maintained in a small space ; then
various sailorising jobs, such as the refitting of the awnings and
the making of sword matting, were carried on in it ; and finally
it has been used both for the rehearsal and performance of
such entertainments as have served to lighten the monotony of
our routine, and in this capacity, when fitted with a stage and
decked with scenery, footlights, &c., it probably forms the
most pretentious theatre that has ever been seen in polar
regions. Of late a solid pedestal of firebricks has been built
in the small compartment and on this Bernacchi will shortly
be swinging his pendulums for gravity observations ; while in
the spring I hope that we may be able to use the larger com-
partment as a centre for collecting, weighing, and distributing
the food and equipment of the various sledge parties.

' On the whole, therefore, our large hut has been and will
be of use to us, but its uses are never likely to be of such
importance as to render it indispensable, nor cause it to be
said that circumstances have justified the outlay made on it or

I902] LIGHTING ARRANGEMENTS ON BOARD 259

the expenditure of space and trouble in bringing it to its final
home. It is here now, however, and here it will stand for
many a long year with such supplies as will afford the neces-
saries of life to any less fortunate party who may follow in our
footsteps and be forced to search for food and shelter.

' Beyond the large hut stand the smaller magnetic huts, and
from the eminence on that point the little cluster of buildings
looks quite imposing. In the midst of these vast ice-solitudes
and under the frowning desolation of the hills, the ship, the
huts, the busy figures passing to and fro, and the various other
evidences of human activity are extraordinarily impressive.
How strange it all seems ! For countless ages the great
sombre mountains about us have loomed through the gloomy
polar night with never an eye to mark their grandeur, and for
countless ages the wind-swept snow has drifted over these
great deserts with never a footprint to break its white surface ;
for one brief moment the eternal solitude is broken by a hive
of human insects ; for one brief moment they settle, eat, sleep,
trample, and gaze, then they must be gone, and all must be
surrendered again to the desolation of the ages.'

"■ July \<^. — . . . One of the most important considerations
for our comfort during the polar night is the manner of lighting
the ship. The breakdown of the windmill was a blow, as a
supply of electric light would have been the greatest boon ;
but, luckily, we never over-estimated the possibility of success
in this respect, and the breakdown found us amply supplied
with alternative means. From the first, paraffin suggested
itself as the most suitable illuminant for our purpose, and from
the first also it had been decided to use this oil as fuel during
our sledge journeys. On the other hand, paraffin is not a
desirable oil to carry in a ship in any quantity, and in our case
it was rendered less desirable by the fact that we had to take
it at a low flash-point in order that it might remain liquid at
the lowest temperatures. The flash-point of our oil is 105^^, it
begins to turn milky when the thermometer falls below —40°,
and we have not yet experienced a temperature in which it will
not flow freely.

26o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

' We decided in London that the best position to carry the
large quantity which we required was on the upper deck, and
consequently we had a number of tanks of considerable
capacity constructed to fit into odd spaces where they would
be least likely to obstruct the working of the ship. In this
manner we managed to find room for over 1,500 gallons, which is
now served out under the care of the engine-room department.

' Our luckiest find was perhaps the right sort of lamp in
which to burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic explorer,
Captain Egerton, presented me with a patent lamp in which
the draught is produced by a fan worked by clockwork
mechanism, and no chimney is needed. One could imagine
the great mortality there would be in chimneys if we were
obliged to employ them, so that when, on trial, this lamp was
found to give an excellent light, others of the same sort were
purchased, and we now use them exclusively in all parts of the
ship with extremely satisfactory results. We also have on
board a goodly number of candles, which are served out as
occasion requires ; but over both oil and candles it is necessary
to keep a very tight hold, as people are inclined to be extra-
ordinarily wasteful.

' The necessity of heating the magnetic huts was not
included in our estimate, and is therefore an unexpected
drain on our resources ; but apart from this our expenditure
of both oil and candles is a great deal too large at present, and
everyone has been warned that in case of a second winter the
allowance will be largely curtailed. Although I realise that
we are going too strong in this respect, I have not the heart to
cut things down at present ; the probability is we shall only do
one winter ; why not let it be as comfortable as possible ? It
is in the nature of a gamble, but if the worst comes to the
worst, we can always fall back on blubber.'

It was perhaps a fortunate oversight that in the general
comfort of our situation with regard to light we gave no
thought to the adaptation of a still brighter illuminant which lay
within our reach in the shape of acetylene. For when it became
evident that we should have to spend a second winter in the

•

I902] ACETYLENE 261

same spot and there was no guarantee that this might not be
prolonged to a third or even a fourth, the question of lighting
the ship became a much more serious problem, and our
thoughts flew at once to the calcium carbide which had been
provided for the hut and which we had not previously thought
of using. Once brought into working order, this illuminant
proved to be the most delightful and the most easily worked
that it would be possible to imagine. All that was necessary
was to arrange a system of piping which led to the entrance
porch ; here the generator which regulated the mixture of the
carbide with water, and so the production of gas, was placed,
and here it continued to work in spite of the temperature, as
the chemical action by which the gas was produced gave oft"
sufficient heat to prevent the water from freezing on the
coldest days. In this manner the darkness of our second
winter was relieved by a light of such brilliancy that all could
pursue their occupations by the single burner placed in each
compartment. I lay great stress on this, because I am con-
fident that this is in every way the best illuminant that can be
taken for a polar winter, and no future expedition should fail
to supply themselves with it. The single drawback is the
danger of carrying the carbide on shipboard. It must of
necessity be kept in a dry place, but the danger can be
greatly diminished by careful packing, and there is no reason
why the sealed tins containing it should not be stowed in
boxes, which are likewise made water-tight, and so assurance
be made doubly sure.

I may mention that our stock of candles had also to be care-
fully considered in the second winter, and we thought it good
policy to exaggerate our destitution to encourage greater care.
As the result of a limited allowance it was possible to see
widely different methods of consumption, and each person
preserved with care a box in which he kept the grease which
had guttered over from his own candles or from any others
that he could lay his hands on. As soon as sufficient was
collected he would set about casting fresh candles, and so eke
out his own scanty supply ; later it was found that by mixing

262 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

this surplus grease with blubber still greater economy could be
achieved, and in the end comparatively firm candles were
made containing two parts of blubber to one of the original
composition. Such are the teachings of adversity !

' The subjects of illumination and paraffin lead me naturally
enough to consider the question of fire, which at first gave me
some anxiety, and the adequacy of our pumps to meet this
important contingency. During the summer cruise the ship
continued to leak, the main hold slightly, the fore peak rapidly ;
this leakage continued for some time after we were frozen in,
but gradually, as the ice thickened around the ship, it dimin-
ished until finally it practically ceased. But our experience
with the pumps in relieving the leak was sufficient to show their
defects. Whilst the temperature was high they acted well, but
when it fell they froze solid immediately after use, and to be
brought into action again they had to be opened up and
thawed out with a blow-lamp, a task which occupied from
twenty minutes to half-an-hour. Obviously it would be futile
to rely on such pumps for coping with a fire during the winter,
and I could see no possible object in keeping open a firehole
in the ice on the vain supposition that we should then have
water at our disposal. Consequently, I had to consider the
possibility of fighting a fire without water. Some reflection
showed me that with a few precautions the risk of fire would
be reduced to a minimum, and that if in spite of these it should
break out, the strong probability was that it would be dis-
covered at once.

' In the living-spaces safety lies in the fact that they are
always occupied ; with the additional safeguard of a box of
earth it may be granted that a fire could not make any headway
in these parts. On the rare occasions when people work in the
holds or other parts there is always a responsible officer in
charge, as well as the most stringent regulations with regard to
lights. In the engine-room it would be very difficult to start a
fire, and an officer goes round after working-hours to see that
all is in order. Should fire occur despite such precautions our
best means of coping with it would be to stifle it with fur and

1902] A NIGHT ON DUTY 263

woollen clothing, of which there is always an abundance to
hand. On the whole, one feels that there is much less risk of
fire whilst the ship is steady than when she is knocking about
at sea, but the grave consequences keep one always alive to
the risk.'

''July 20. — ... A southerly gale blew all yesterday and
through the night, bringing quantities of snow, as in May ; the
temperature rose as high as +12'^, and all the out-stations
show a corresponding increase. The fore-end of the awning
was split, the boats entirely covered, and the drifts about the
ship again raised to a height of ten or twelve feet. The fine
snow penetrated everywhere ; it raised our deck layer several
inches under the awning, crowded in through a small ventilation
hole in the magnetic observatory, completely covering the
instruments, and snowed-up the kennels, the occupants of
which have had to be temporarily housed on board. More
than once our efforts to light the stove filled the wardroom with
thick smoke, until we were glad to fly on deck for fresh air,
and subsequently to go fireless. Luckily, the high temperature
made this no great inconvenience. To-day the wind has gone
back to the eastward, from which direction it sweeps along the
loose snow with a rapidly falling temperature and a most
comfortless outlook.'

'■July 21. — ... It was my "night on" last night. As I
have said, we take it in turn to make all the two-hourly obser-
vations from 10 P.M. to 6 a.m. Each of us has his own way
of passing the long, silent hours. My own custom is to devote
some of it to laundry-work, and I must confess I make a very
poor fist of it. However, with a bath full of hot water I com-
mence pretty regularly after the ten o'clock observation, and
labour away until my back aches. There is little difficulty
with the handkerchiefs, socks, and such-like articles, but when
it comes to thick woollen vests and pyjamas, I feel ready to
own my incapacity ; one always seems to be soaping and rub-
bing at the same place, and one is forced to wonder at the
area of stuff which it takes to cover a comparatively small
body. My work is never finished by midnight, but I generally

264 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

pretend that it is, and after taking the observations for that
hour, return to wring everything out. I am astonished to find
that even this is no light task : as one wrings out one end the
water seems to fly to the other ; then I hang some heavy
garment on a hook and wring until I can wring no more ; but
even so, after it has been hung for a few minutes on the ward-
room clothes-line, it will begin to drip merrily on the floor,
and I have to tackle it afresh. I shall always have a
high respect for laundry-work in future, but I do not think
it can often have to cope with such thick garments as we
wear.

' Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occu-
pations. The night watchman is always allowed a box of
sardines, which are scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is
provided with tea or cocoa and a spirit-lamp. Everyone has
his own ideas as to how sardines should be prepared, and of
course puts them into practice when his turn of night duty
comes, but the majority like them cooked in some form, so
that nearly every night the sizzling of the frying-pan can be
heard in the early hours and the odour of cooking is wafted
into the adjacent cabins. I scarcely like to record that there
is a small company oi gourmets who actually wake one another
up in order that the night watchman may present his fellow
epicures with a small finger of buttered toast on which are
poised two sardines " done to a turn." The awakened sleeper
devours the dainty morsel, grunts his satisfaction, and goes
placidly off into dreamland again.

* I find that after my labours at the wash-tub and the pleas-
ing supper that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a
chair without fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the
ever-soothing pipe and one's latest demand on the library
bookshelves, one settles down in great peace and contentment
whilst keeping an eye on the flying hours, ready to sally forth
into the outer darkness at the appointed time. The pleasure
or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely dependent
on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure,
but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the

I902] SMOKING HABITS 265

ship, the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties,
and to conditions when his conscience must be at variance
with his inchnation. Sometimes the lantern will go out at the
screen, and he is forced to return on board to light it ; some-
times it will refuse to shine on the thin threads of mercury of
the thermometer until it is obvious that his proximity has
affected the reading, and he is forced to stand off until it has
again fallen to the air temperature. He will climb to the
indicator of the Robinson anemometer, and find it so difficult
to see that the glass has frosted over before he has accom-
plished the reading, and he is obhged to scrape away the film
of ice that covers it with his bare hand. Occasionally he has
to cherish water with tender care against its freezing until he
can re-wet the wet-bulb thermometer ; and, again, he may
have to remain stationary with upturned face for several
minutes to determine the direction of motion of some elusive
upper cloud. All these and many other difficulties in taking
observations which may be in themselves valueless are met in
the right spirit. I think we all appreciate that they are part
of a greater whole whose value must stand or fall by attention
to detail.'

^July 24. — ..." Pipe, money, baccy, matches." I have
forgotten the origin of this formula, but it is one which I have
used for many years to remind myself of the indispensable
contents of my pockets for a run on shore. I thought of it
as I went out to-day, and, wondering what formula would
replace it under present conditions, decided that there was
none, as one has no requirement out of doors here but suit-
able apparel. Few, if any, smoke outside — in fact, it would
be an impossible performance when the wind is blowing ; and
as for money, I look with mixed feelings at a sovereign which
is gradually growing tarnished in the drawer of my desk ; few
coins have had such a restful time as this sovereign — and for
the matter of that, few persons such a restful time as its
owner — but I expect for neither of us will there be much
repose when we get back to civilisation. Meanwhile it is
rather fascinating to consider the moneyless condition in

266 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

which we live. With absence of wealth, community of
interest, and a free sharing of comforts and hardships, we
must realise much that is socialistically ideal, yet in recogni-
tion of rank and supremacy of commnnd the government
must be considered an autocracy ; and, indeed, just at present
I can the more fully realise my position as autocrat when I
see how eagerly everyone is awaiting the sledging programme
which is to foreshadow their lives for the coming season.

'Although no one smokes out of doors, many smoke
within, and a few, amongst whom I must number myself, are
inveterate victims of the habit. And yet, speaking generally,
the consumption of tobacco is not so great as might be
expected in the circumstances. Of eleven officers in the
wardroom three are pretty constant smokers, four indulge
moderately, and four are practically non-smokers. The first
three may possibly consume about i-^- lb. each month, the
moderate men may account for something over | lb. apiece,
whilst the amount used by the remainder is practically
negligible, so that the whole consumption for the eleven
officers does not exceed 6 or 7 lbs. per month, at which rate
our stock will last for many a year. On the mess-deck also
there are a few who do not smoke at all, and many who are
extremely moderate. The allowance is i lb. per month, and
there has never been any request for an increase. No doubt
the moderate smokers help those who are more addicted to
the habit, but I should doubt whether any consume much
more than their allowance, though from force of habit they
prefer a very much stronger tobacco than that smoked aft,
and in readiness for this preference we shipped a quantity of
tobacco in the leaf which has proved very popular ; the men
like rolling it up for themselves in the good old naval fashion.
There is now little or no restriction as to time or place of
smoking, and apart from the sympathy that I should naturally
have with freedom in this respect as a great smoker myself, I
cannot see that anything would be gained by limiting the
practice as long as there is no one who is inconvenienced by
it — and, luckily, we are in the happy position of possessing

1902] THE 'SOUTH POLAR TIMES' 267

non-smokers who have not the least objection to sitting
amongst many pipes.

* There is another habit indulged in by a few of the men which
I thought had almost universally died out of fashion — namely,
that of chewing. The objection to this, in my mind, is that it
is carried on during the outdoor work, and it will, therefore, be
a temptation for them to continue it during the sledging, and
I feel sure that such a habit will detract from their marching
powers. I have said nothing at present, but I propose that
both smoking and chewing shall be forbidden on the march,
and though a small allowance of tobacco will be permitted for
smoking in camp, I hope to discourage chewing altogether.'

''July 25. — . . . The fourth number of our excellent monthly
publication, the " South Polar Times," has recently appeared,
and maintains the same excellence as former issues. The scheme
for this publication was discussed long before the sun left us,
and by general consent Shackleton was appointed editor. It
was decided that each number should contain, besides the
editorial, a summary of the events and meteorological condi-
tions of the past month, certain scientifically instructive articles
dealing with our work and our surroundings, and certain others
written in a lighter vein. As the scheme developed it was
found that other features, such as full-page caricatures, acrostics,
and puzzles, could be added ; and now each month sees the
production of a stout volume which is read with much interest
and amusement by everyone. One of the pleasantest points
with regard to it is that the men contribute as well as the
officers ; in fact, some of the best and quite the most amusing
articles are written by the occupants of the mess-deck, of whom
one or two show extraordinary ability with the pen. But
beyond all else the journal owes its excellence to the principal
artist, Wilson, who carries out the greater part of the illustra-
tion and produces drawings whose charm would be appreciated
anywhere.

' Once or twice lately we have discussed the possibility of
these volumes being interesting to a larger public, though
there was no such idea in anyone's mind at the start. It is

268 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [July

certain, however, that the journal is more ambitious in inten-
tion, and far more effective in its realisation, than any of its
predecessors of the North Polar regions. On the one hand,
we have some reading matter and many delightful sketches
that would he appreciated by all ; on the other, it has to be
remembered that the humour and many of the references are
local and would convey little or nothing to the uninformed
reader, however much they may appeal to us " who are in the
know." It is obvious that we cannot decide this matter for
ourselves, but must take the opinion of outsiders more capable
of judging.

' Before the appearance of the first number of the " S. P. T.,"
which came out with the departure of the sun, the editor had
to face a rather delicate situation : it was announced that con-
tributions need not be signed, but must be dropped into the
editor's box by a certain date. When the date arrived it was
found that the novelty of the venture had aroused such wide-
spread interest that the box was crammed with manuscripts,
and though there was not much difficulty in making a selection,
there was some danger of wounding the feelings of those lite-
rary aspirants whose contributions were rejected. In this
dilemma the editor decided to issue a supplementary journal,
to be named the " Blizzard," and one number of this redoubt-
able publication was produced, but fell so lamentably short of
the "S. P. T." that the contributors realised that their mission
in life did not lie in the paths of literary composition, and
thereafter the editor's box contained only what that astute
individual required for the original periodical.

'The anonymity of articles could not long be observed in
such a small community, and after the appearance of the first
numbers the style of different individuals was more or less
easily recognised ; but even the later numbers have contained
some articles concerning the authorship of which there has
been much erratic guessing. In mentioning the " Blizzard "
I ought to remark that it has redeeming features in some
capital line caricatures and a distinctly humorous frontispiece
by Barne.'

1902] AURORA AUSTRALIS 269

'■July 26. — . . . On the whole, the displays of the aurora
australis have been disappointing ; we had expected them to
be more brilliant. When the sky is clear there is generally
some auroral light, but it is rarely vivid, and never bright
enough to be photographed. In hopes of obtaining the spec-
trum of this light, a rapid plate has been exposed to it for
hours, and even days together, but as yet there has not been
the least impression on it. In general the light is so faint
that stars of even a small magnitude can be seen distinctly
through it ; but of late there has been an improvement, and
the contrast on the dark nights has given us a very beautiful, if
not a very brilliant, effect to the southward. Lately it has
commenced about three by a bright but low curtain to the
E.N.E., where unfortunately the hills partly hide the view ; but
later it seems to spread up and towards the south, so that
usually in the evening there are shafts and patches of light
scattered about in full view of the ship with sometimes a well-
formed corona to the south.

' Often when the weather has been calm and clear I have
been up and over the hills in the afternoon to see the easterly
display. There is something very weird and awe-inspiring in
a phenomenon so fleeting, so intangible and so difificult to
describe. The light grows and wanes, but one cannot mark
the moment of its coming or its going. It distinctly moves,
but one cannot say how ; sometimes it appears to roll forward
or to the side, sometimes it seems to spread itself as though
anxious for greater space. For no two instants is it the same,
and yet the change is so subtle that one cannot grasp it until
some new development has robbed one of the picture.

' As I arrived on the hill summit to-day the sky was clear
and dark, but as I walked forward a narrow arched band of
light appeared across the east ; it seemed to rise, to halt.
Little fibrous shafts spread out above and below ; a moment
more, and the fibres became luminous cloud masses rolling
towards the south ; in the next they had ceased to move ; the
light was spreading and waning, was gone. Then shafts of
light flashed up like mighty search-light beams cast to the

270 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' Quly

zenith ; but before I could well note them, they were bent in
fantastic convolutions, some curling to spiral columns. In a
few moments all this had come and gone, and the broad clean
arch of a corona seemed to be rushing towards me from the
south. As it rose, a second arch flashed up beneath ; then, as
though some giant hand had swept across the skies, the whole
scene was changed, and only some vague luminous patches
remained.

' It appears to me that the sharpest contrasts are formed by
the vertical shafts, or at the lower edge of the arches where the
light is brightest and is clearly outlined against the vaulted blue
of the sky ; elsewhere the light merges indefinitely into shade.

' Since the phenomenon of the aurora has been reproduced
artificially, its study has advanced to a stage rather beyond the
comprehension of the ordinary man, and after the countless
observations which have been made in the North it does not
seem likely that our observations or any observations of the
actual phenomenon itself can add greatly to our knowledge;
but considering that the luminosity of the aurora must be an
electrical effect closely connected with the magnetism of the
earth, it may be of some interest that in our observation it
always appears to the south-east or away from the niagnetic
pole. The auroral light is usually a pure white, but we have
observed it with a distinct green tinge, and on rare occasions
with a reddish shade. Last night there were large patches of
light in the zenith, and, what is also rare, several shafts in the
west.'

'■July 28. — . . . The latest southerly gale has awakened
us to a most unpleasant fact, though at present it is impossible
to gauge the exact extent of our difficulty. The question of
the moment is, What has become of our boats ? Early in the
winter they were hoisted out to give more room for the awning,
and were placed in a line about 100 yards from the ice-foot on
the sea-ice. The earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale
high, and thus for two months they remained in sight whilst
we congratulated ourselves on their security. The last gale
brought more snow, and, piling it in drifts at various places in

I902] MISHAP TO OUR BOATS 271

the bay, chose to be specially generous with it in the neigh-
bourhood of our boats, so that afterwards they were found to
be buried three or four feet beneath the new surface. Although
we had noted with interest the manner in which the extra
weight of snow in other places was pressing down the surface
of the original ice, and were even taking measurements of the
effects thus produced, we remained fatuously blind to the risks
our boats ran under such conditions. It was from no feeling
of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, that I directed
that the snow on top of them should be removed, and it was
not until we had dug down to the first boat that the true state
of affairs dawned on us. She was found lying in a mass of
slushy ice, with which also she was nearly filled. For the
moment we had a wild hope that she could be pulled up, but
by the time we could rig shears the air temperature had con-
verted the slush into hardened ice, and she was found to be
otuck fast. At present there is no hope of recovering any of
the boats : as fast as one could dig out the sodden ice, more
sea-water would flow in and freeze. The only hope is to
prevent bad going to worse before the summer brings more
hopeful conditions. The danger is that fresh gales bringing
more snow will sink them so far beneath the surface that we
shall be unable to recover them at all. Stuck solid in the floe
they must go down with it, and every effort must be devoted
to preventing the floe from sinking. At present all hands are
removing the snow on top of the boats and for a distance of
ten yards around, and are forming a snow- wall on the outskirts
of this area. It is a long job, and will probably have to be
repeated after every gale. Meanwhile our stupidity has landed
us in a pretty bad hole, for we may have to leave this spot
without a single boat in the ship.'

From this time we had a hard fight for our boats. Day
after day parties were digging away at their snow covering, and
in the course of months many tons must have been removed.
After each gale our hearts sank, as to all appearance we were
forced to begin all over again ; but we knew that, although
there was so little to show for our labours, our work must tell

272 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

in the long run, and that in it lay the only hope of keeping the
boats within our grasp until the climate should be more favour-
able. So, however deeply the snow fell after each new
southerly blow, the work was renewed with vigour, and we
bowed to the inevitable whilst we heartily cursed the folly
which had landed us in such a predicament. It was not until
December, five months later, that Mr. Royds and our excellent
boatswain were able to attack the question of release with any
chance of success, and it was in this month that, after much
sawing and blasting, the boats were finally liberated, though by
no means M^ithout injury.

^August I. — There can be few scenes more beautiful than
that which is about us on a calm moonlight night. During
the noon hours the silver rays are lost, and the moon itself is
changed to a deep orange yellow in the diffused twilight cast
by the gleaming crimson band to the north ; but as the red
glow slowly travels around and is lost behind the western hills,
our white world is left alone with the moon and the stars.
The cold, white light falls on the colder, whiter snow against
which the dark rock and intricate outline of the ship stand out
in blackest contrast. Each sharp peak and every object about
us casts a deep shadow, and is clearly outlined against the sky,
but beyond our immediate surroundings is fairyland. The eye
travels on and on over the gleaming plain till it meets the
misty white horizon, and above and beyond, the soft, silvery
outlines of the mountains. Did one not know them of old, it
would sometimes be difficult to think them real, so deep a spell
of enchantment seems to rest on the scene. And indeed it is
not a spell that rests on man alone, for it is on such nights that
the dogs lift up their voices and join in a chant which disturbs
the most restful sleepers.

' What lingering instinct of bygone ages can impel them to
this extraordinary custom is beyond guessing ; but on these
calm, clear moonlit nights, when all are coiled down placidly
sleeping, one will suddenly raise his head and from the depths
of his throat send forth a prolonged, dismal wail, utterly unlike
any sound he can produce on ordinary occasions. As the note

1902] CURIOUS PHENOMENA 273

dies away another animal fakes it up, and then another and
another, until the hills re-echo with the same unutterably
dreary plaint. There is no undue haste and no snapping or
snarling, which makes it very evident that this is a solemn
function, some sacred rite which must be performed in these
circumstances. If one is sentimentally inclined, as may be
forgiven on such a night, this chorus almost seems to possess
the woes of the ages ; as an accompaniment to the vast
desolation without, it touches the lowest depths of sadness.

' But if one is not sentimentally inclined, and rather bent
on refreshing sleep, it possesses so little charm that one
endeavours to correct matters by shouts and pieces of ice. As
a rule the animals are so absorbed in their occupation and so
lost to their surroundings that even these monitions have no
power to disturb them, and one has at length to bribe them
basely with a biscuit or a piece of seal-meat.

' Generally in calm, bright weather, the temperature is low,
and to night, when the thermometer stood below —40°, we
observed a curious fact which I do not remember to have seen
mentioned before. If one is standing still and bareheaded,
and exhales a deep breath, one can actually hear one's breath
freezing a moment or two after it has left the mouth. What
one hears I do not precisely know, unless the actual formation
of ice-crystals produces a sound, as appears to be the case.
The sound itself is not easy to describe ; it is rather like that
produced by the movement of sand on a beach when a wave
washes up. Koettlitz says it is like the minutest crepitations,
and though few of us knew what the word meant till we con-
sulted the dictionary, we have adopted his description.

' A curious effect of the cold snaps is a mist which arises
off the land, very thin and very white, and in the silvery moon-
light beautiful beyond description. It spreads like the finest
gauze-web over the sharp outlines of the near hills ; the white
snow-slopes and dark shadows of the rocks are softened in its
shimmering folds, and seem to rest on the lightest foundations
of silvery cloud.'

' August 4. — . . . The driving snow has again enveloped
VOL. 1. T

2 74 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

everything. The boat clearance is covered. The only thing
is to go on steadily digging away at it ; but if the snowfall
continues in the spring it will mean a lot of work. Still, by
hook or by crook the boats must be kept above water. We
now feel a great drawback in the scarcity of picks and shovels.
It is wonderful what has been done already with the mere
dozen which were supplied, considering that they have been in
use every day and all day ; but a good many are now hope-
lessly broken, and the remainder are not very efficient. We
shall have to rely on the engine-room department once more,
but although they can make shovels, I doubt if they will be
able to cope with the picks for want of materials. The
temperature since the gale has been extraordinarily high.
To-day it has been above zero, and light snow is falling. The
daylight is coming on apace ; at noon, when it is cloudless, the
details of the land can be seen very clearly on all sides, and it
is pleasant to be out when the snow is not driving.

' Bernacchi and Skelton are just completing a set of pen-
dulum observations in the main hut, and last night when the
gale was rising with blinding drift they had an adventure from
which they were extremely lucky to escape unscathed. In the
evening the hut was fully occupied, Bernacchi and Skelton
being at work in the smaller compartment, whilst Royds was
busily rehearsing his nigger minstrel troupe in the larger one ;
but shortly after the rehearsal began, either because it proved
a somewhat disturbing element or because their work was
finished, the two scientific workers left to return to the ship.
It was fully an hour and a half after this that, the rehearsal
being finished, Royds and his party, numbering more than
a dozen, started back. They found that the gale had increased,
and that in the whirling snow they could see nothing ; but,
being in such numbers, they were able to join hands and
sweep along until they caught the guide rope leading to the
gangway. As they travelled along it, they heard feeble shouts
wafted on the storm, and again extending their line they swept
on in a chain and suddenly fell on Bernacchi and Skelton, who,
although they had left the hut an hour and a half before, had

CAUGHT IN A BLIZZARD.

I902] LOST IN A BLIZZARD 275

entirely lost their bearings and were reduced to shouting on
the poor chance of being heard and rescued.

'Meanwhile on board the ship we had not the smallest
suspicion that anything unusual had taken place, and remained
in ignorance until the rescuers and the rescued burst in upon
us ; the latter were severely frost-bitten about the face and also
in the legs, as they had not been prepared for such a long stay
in the open ; and as they had not been provided with wind
covering, their garments inside and out were thickly coated with
ice and snow. As soon as we had revived them we learnt
what little tale they had to tell.

' On leaving the hut they had started for the ship, steering
through the Winding drift as best they could. After walking
for some distance they came to the conclusion they must have
missed her, and proceeded to grope their way back to the
land. When they reached the tide crack they found some
difficulty in deciding which way they should go, but finally
they reached a spot which they recognised, and, calculating the
position of the ship, they again made tracks for her, and again
found that they had missed the mark. They then decided to
try to search around in circles, and so the time passed whilst
they wandered more or less aimlessly about until they became
alarmed, and tried to attract attention by shouting. In the
nick of time they were rescued within thirty yards of their
goal, but without any knowledge of the fact.

'The hut is certainly not more than 200 yards from the
ship, and the ship is not only a comparatively big object, but
is surrounded by guide ropes and other objects which if
encountered would have informed the wanderers of their
position. These officers were neither of them likely to have
lost their heads, and both might be trusted to take the most
practical course in such a difficulty. In these circumstances
the fact that they should have been lost for two hours would
have been incredible had it not actually occurred. It is the
most convincing lesson on the blinding, bewildering effect
of a blizzard that we have had, and shows clearly what care
will be necessary with our sledge parties if such weather

T 2

276 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

continues in the spring. Throughout the greater part of the
winter we have had a guide rope which continued as far as
the hut, and had this been in order last night all trouble would
have been avoided ; but recently it has sagged between the
poles and become buried beneath the snow, and it was not
available, therefore, for parties leaving the hut.'

Throughout our stay in these regions I had constantly
a lurking anxiety tliat disaster might attend the overbold
habits of some of our officers in making long excursions from
the ship, especially during the winter months. The trouble
lay chiefly in the impossibility of predicting the weather con-
ditions ; the barometer told nothing, and such other signs
of bad weather as came under our observation were so
uncertain that it was impossible to legislate on them. Threats
of a storm were so constantly unfulfilled that to have kept
all hands within bounds on their account would have been
irksome to individual feeling and discouraging to individual
work. The only satisfactory course was to rely on the dis-
cretion of distant workers to hasten home directly the weather
looked ugly, and to trust that the coming storm would not
develop before they had reached a position of safety ; but,
needless to remark, this happy result was not always realised,
and my diary throughout the two years records many hours
of anxiety caused by the prolonged absence of some person, and
some occasions on which search parties were rapidly organised
to find such a belated worker. In the course of time this
naturally became an easier task, as we all became better
acquainted with the features of the tide crack and the various
patches of rock and with their relative bearings. In course
of time also our system of relief became better organised ; and
although we did not put it in practice, it may be well to record
our final arrangement in this respect as a hint to those who
may live under like conditions in the future. In outline our
ultimate plan for searching was to spread out the search party
in a very extended order, connecting them by a fine strong
line, and so to sweep round the floe systematically until the
object of our search was recovered,

1902] THE ROYAL TERROR THEATRE 277

Experiences of this sort taught us the valuable lesson
of never leaving our sledges on our long sledge journeys
except under the most favourable conditions. It can be
imagined that one was often tempted to do this to get a better
knowledge of some object which lay off the line of march,
but when such a detour became necessary, wisdom suggested
that the sledges should be taken as far as possible towards the
object, even if the ground were rough ; and although we often
marched in threatening and stormy weather, it was always
with our temporary home behind us.

The idea of requisitioning our large hut as a place of
entertainment had occurred to us early in the winter, and in
this connection it was first used for a concert given during the
first week in May. Royds, who took much pains in getting
up this function, arranged a long programme in order to bring
forth all the available talent ; but although we were not
inclined to be critical of our amusements, one was fain to
confess that our company had not been chosen for their
musical attainments. However, there were exceptions to the
mediocrity, and some exhibition of dramatic talent, which
prompted the conception of a modified entertainment for
a future occasion ; so Barne was entrusted with the task
of producing a play, and after much casting about succeeded
in getting his company together. All became very diligent
with rehearsals, and as these were conducted in the hut with
all due secrecy, the audience remained in ignorance of
even the name of the play until the night of its production.
It was decided that this should be immediately after our mid-
winter celebrations, and my diary for June 25 gives some
account of this great night :

'At seven to-night we all journey across to the hut, forcing
our way through a rather keen wind and light snowdrift.
The theatre within looks bright and cheerful, but as there are
no heating arrangements other than the lamps, one conquers
the natural instinct to take off one's overcoat and head
covering, and decides that it will be wise to retain these gar-
ments throughout the performance. On one side of the large

278 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

compartment a fair-sized stage has been erected, raised some two
feet above the floor ; the edge is decorated with a goodly row
of footlights, immediately behind which hangs a drop-curtain
depicting the ship and Mount Erebus in glowing colours, and
boldly informing one that this is the " Royal Terror Theatre."
The remainder of the compartment forms an auditorium of
ample size to accommodate all who are not performing, with
a stray dog or two brought in to enliven the proceedings.

' In front stands a row of chairs for the officers, and behind
several rows of benches for the men ; the apartment is lighted
by a large oil lamp, and when all are seated one must own
to having seen theatricals under far less realistic conditions.
When all are seated also, and when pipes are lit, there is a
perceptible improvement in the temperature, a condition that
one feels will be very welcome to the lightly clad actors.

' In due course programmes are passed round, informing us
that Part I. will consist of several songs rendered by popular
singers, and that for Part II. we shall have the "Ticket of
Leave," " a screaming comedy in one act." These programmes,
I may remark, are correct at least in one respect, in that there is
some difficulty in picking out the information from amongst
the mass of advertisements. Presently the curtain rolls up and
discloses Royds at the piano and the first singers in true con-
cert attitude. We have a duet, followed by several solos, and
occasionally a rousing chorus, when one rather fears that the
roof of the Royal Terror Theatre will rise. On the whole the
first part passes decorously, and we come to the interval, when
the wags advertise oranges and nuts.

' Then we have Part II., which is what we are here for : the
"screaming comedy" commences and proves to be fully up to
its title. There is no need for the actors to speak — their
appearance is quite enough to secure the applause of the
audience ; and when the representatives of the lady parts step
on to the stage it is useless for them to attempt speech for
several minutes, the audience is so hugely delighted. Thanks
to Mr. Clarkson and his make-up box, the disguises are excel-
lent, and it soon becomes evident that the actors have regarded

1902] A 'SCREAMING COMEDY' 279

them as by far the most important part of the proceedings, and
hold the view that it is rather a waste of time to learn a part
when one has a good loud-voiced prompter. As the play pro-
gresses one supposes there is a plot, but it is a little difficult to
unravel. Presently, however, we are obviously working up to
a situation; the hero, or perhaps I should say one of the
heroes (for each actor at least attacks his part with heroism),
unexpectedly sees through the window the lady on whom he
has fixed his affections, and whom, I gather, he has not seen
for a long and weary time. He is evidently a little uncertain
as to her identity, and at this stirring moment he sits very care-
fully on a chair — he almost dusts the seat before he does so.
Seated and barely glancing at the window, he says with great
deliberation and in the most matter-of-fact tones, " It is — no,
it isn't — yes, it is — it is my long-lost Mary Jane." The senti-
ment— or the rendering of it — is greeted with shouts of
applause. Later on we work up to a climax, when it is
evident that the services of the police force will be required.
This part is much more to the taste of the players ; somebody
has to be chucked out ; both he and the " chuckers-out "
determine to make their parts quite realistic, and for several
minutes there is practically a free fight with imminent risk to
the furniture. And so at last the curtain falls amidst vociferous
cheering, and I for one have to acknowledge that I have rarely
been so gorgeously entertained. With renewed cheers we
break up and wander back to the ship, after having witnessed
what the " S. P. T." may veraciously describe as " one of the
most successful entertainments ever given within the Polar
Circle " — and indeed they might with some truth add " or any-
where else." '

From the above it will be seen that our first essay at acting
met with very hearty approval, if it did not show us to be
possessed of great histrionic talent. We had always mtended
to call again on our dramatic company, but owing to the work
of several of its members and other circumstances our plans
slipped through ; later on, however, Royds undertook to or-
ganise a nigger minstrel troupe, and towards the end of the

28o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

winter succeeded in getting them together and in rehearsing
their various parts through many a cold hour spent in the
freezing theatre.

On August 6, the date fi:xed for this performance, we were
in the midst of a cold snap, but although the temperature had
fallen below —40°, it was decided that the programme should
be carried out as intended.

' To-night the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at
7.30, and as the temperature was — 40° and there was a strong
wind, everybody did his best to make a record in reaching it.
Even inside the temperature must have been well below zero ;
I wonder how the ordinary theatre-goer would appreciate
sitting in stalls under such conditions.

' One was not sorry when the curtain rolled up and disclosed
our twelve minstrels with blackened faces sitting in a row with
" Massa Johnson " in the centre. A programme with an illus-
trated cover informed us that this was the "Dishcover Minstrel
Troupe." There is no doubt the sailors dearly love to make
up ; on this occasion they had taken an infinity of trouble to
prepare themselves ; calicoes of all sorts had been cut up and
sewn together to make suits of the most vivid colours and
grotesque form ; shirt fronts and enormous collars of elaborate
design had been made from paper ; wigs had been manu-
factured from tow, in some cases dipped in red ink, and an equal
ingenuity had been displayed in producing the enormous boots
and buttons which constitute an important part of the nigger
minstrel's costume. " Bones " and " Skins " had even gone so
far as to provide themselves with movable top-knots which
could be worked at effective moments by pulling a string below.

' As everyone knows, a nigger minstrel performance consists
of a number of songs and choruses, between which the ball of
conversation is kept rolling amongst the various minstrels in
the form of weighty conundrums, which, after numerous futile
attempts from others, are usually answered by the propounder
himself I don't know why a joke should sound better in
nigger language, but I rather think the class of joke made on
these occasions does so.

I902] NIGGER MINSTRELS 281

' To-night the choruses and plantation songs led by Royds
were really well sung, and they repay him for the very great
pains that he has taken in the rehearsals. Of course in the
choruses of " Marching through Georgia," " Golden Slippers,"
" Suwanee River," and such songs, the audience felt that they
must also " lend a hand," and did so with such a will that the
rafters shook. The jokes were nearly all home-made and
topical, but amused us none the less for that ; everyone had
some sly shaft of wit aimed at him, but all in the best of good
humour, and so the merry jests went round until something
had been said about the ship, the dogs, the windmill, the
people, and every imaginable or unimaginable thing about us,
and on the whole they afforded us a good deal of hearty
laughter.

' I can remember but few of these jocular efforts; I recollect
that the cook was likened to a cooper round a cask — because
he was always going round " doing a tap." Another question
which puzzled me for some time was, " Can you told me,
Massa Bones, what am de best way to clear lower-deck in de
Dishcubry?" Bones suggested that it was to turn on a
southerly wind (when the stoves begin to smoke badly), but
the correct answer was much truer : " You tak' an' open a tin

of 's Brussels sprouts." Another, and perhaps better,

question was, " Can you told me what am de worst vegetable
as we took from Englan' ? " One naturally thought that some
such answer as the above might have fitted here, but the proper
reply was stated to be " The Dundee leak." When we got
back to the ship after the performance we decided that in spite
of the cold we had spent an extremely pleasant evening.'

'•August 7. — The cold snap continues, and to-day is calm.
Barne is far out with a small sledge and sounding machine ;
Shackleton and Hodgson still further, digging up a fish trap.
Many others are scattered about in various directions, and all
rejoicing in the absence of wind. The sky is clear overhead
and the light fairly good, but to the north hangs a yellowish
brown haze, now rather common. It seemed to grow colder
as I went outwards over the floe, and a light wind persistently

282 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

attacked my most vulnerable feature, my nostrils. I could
feel them pricking and tingling on the road to frost-bite, but as
I was talking to Barne on my way back this feeling suddenly
ceased, the air seemed to grow much warmer, and on going to
the screen I found the temperature was —36°, whereas a short
time before I had left it at —51^°. It was a striking example
of the waves of temperature that occur in this comparatively
calm, clear weather. Koettlitz, who has been to his thermo-
meter off the cape, reports a minimum of —62° and a present
temperature of — 57'5°, which is probably the degree of cold
in which Shackleton and Hodgson are now labouring to clear
the latter's fish trap, a task in which they are consequently
not much to be envied. The cold is pushing through the
weak spots in our defences below, and makes itself known as
usual by an increase of ice on the bulkheads and over the
bolts, but we have not much difficulty in keeping the air in the
wardroom up to 50°.'

' August g. — Preparations for sledging are being pushed on
apace ; it is astonishing what a lot of time and attention it all
takes.

' There is now a bright orange light to the northward at
noon, and each day brings a nearer approach of the sun; in
a week we shall have good light for several hours, and in a
fortnight we shall be welcoming back the sun.

' The result of the snowless wind which we have had of
late has been to harden and polish the surfaces of the floes
and the hill slopes. I find it impossible to maintain footing
on slopes which I could climb easily a fortnight ago. Seals
have ceased to appear on the ice for a long time, but they are
still about beneath it, and can be heard at the tide cracks and
at their snow-covered breathing-holes ; occasionally they come
under the ship and give a prolonged whining snort, unlike any
sound one can recall, but which can be distinctly heard within.
In the early winter we were much puzzled by this noise, and
many declared that it was caused by the ice, but we have since
traced it without doubt to the seals.

Many times lately we have heard mysterious noises on

1902] PUZZLING ICE-FORMATIONS 283

deck when the temperature is faUing, Amidst the sharp
crackUng of the rigging which always accompanies this
condition, there is occasionally a loud report like the fall of
some heavy weight. In whatever cabin one may be, it seems
to be immediately overhead. Again and again we have dashed
on deck to discover the cause, but always without result. It is
so uncanny that we now feel confident that it is the manifesta-
tion of our own particular ghost.'

^August 12. — Another blizzard, so thick that one cannot
see one's hand before one's face. Two days ago we had
almost cleared the snow from off the boats ; now they will be
completely covered again. No one goes out on these occasions ;
the drifting snow has very much the effect of a sandblast — it
positively pricks the skin and brings frost-bites with alarming
rapidity. Though it is now moderately light at noon, we could
see nothing to-day but a whitening of the whirling cloud about
us. The dogs, whose kennels were likely to be drifted up,
were brought on board early in the storm ; they are generally
rather sad and subdued on such occasions, and can be safely
huddled together without fear of a fight, always excepting the
redoubtable " Nigger," who is given a corner to himself. With
him action follows so quickly on thought, and is so im-
mediately effective, that it is considered advisable to take no
risks.'

'August 13. — . . . Walked to-day round the cape to
Pram Point ; it is between three and four miles from the ship,
and is a spot that has been visited by us often throughout the
winter. A little beyond this point lies the limiting line up to
which the sea-ice broke away in the autumn, and consequently
on the farther side of this line lies ice of an unknown age
whose surface gradually rises to the level of the barrier,
whereas on the near side the ice is all of recent formation.
The centre of interest lies in the ridges which have formed and
are continuing to form in this region. The coastline beyond
the point runs towards Erebus, only slightly curving, and
fringed with steep ice-cliffs and crevassed slopes.

' The ridges in the ice are parallel to each other and to the

284 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

coastline, and extend for a considerable distance along it.
From the heights above they look like heavy, round-crested
rollers of the sea that are preparing to fling themselves on the
shore, so smooth and regular do their undulations appear, and
so gradually are they lost in the plain beyond ; and from the
same heights also they have frequently been counted, and
I think most of us have made their number to be seventeen.
But amongst the ridges it is possible to see that their summits
are cracked in an irregular fashion, and that they are by no
means regular in height. This may well be accounted for by the
varying amount of snow which has fallen in the hollows. To-
day I measured two of these ridges from crest to hollow, and
found one to be i8 feet, whilst another nearer the shore was
14 feet. There can be little doubt that this formation is due
to the ice-sheet pressing up from the south ; and, large as the
disturbance is, when the mighty nature of the cause is con-
sidered, it vanishes into insignificance.

' Whatever the cause may be, it is still active, for the
freshly formed ice to the southward is gradually being waved
up in the same fashion. The whole thing is puzzling, because
one is at a loss to account for the absence of ridges further to
the north, and because, if this is a measure of the movement
of the great ice-sheet, that movement must be extremely small,
as the whole extent of the pressing-up of the new sea-ice cannot
be more than a collapse of twenty or thirty yards at the outside.
In any case it will be an interesting thing to watch for further
developments in this movement, and to see whether there is
any difference in its rate in summer.'

What was at this time comparatively new sea-ice remained
fast throughout the following winter, and we saw the ridges in
it gradually rising in a slow, silent, uncanny fashion, until they
presented a huge confusion of upreared ice-blocks.

^ August 16. — . . . We have now three litters of puppies in
various stages of development. *' Vincka," Armitage's pet
Samoyede, has four which were born a month ago and are
now capable of snarling and snapping on their own account.
" Blanco " produced five on the nth. She has since succeeded

I902] CONCERNING THE DOGS 285

in killing two, but the remainder of her family are just opening
their eyes on this strange new world and rolling about their
warm nest with shrill squeals. To-day "Nell" has added
seven to the puppy population ; they look like seven little
blind rats, but she guards them very jealously with ominous
growls when anyone approaches. We shall probably reduce
this last litter to four or five, and so remain the possessors of
about a dozen in all.

' Each mother has her own comfortable nest under the
shelter of the forecastle, and gets sufficient warmth from the
straw and sacking which are plentifully distributed about it.
" Vincka " takes her maternal duties very lightly, and spends
the day in teasing her offspring, apparently under the impression
that they exist to romp with her. But her pups don't see it in
the same light : their small minds are seriously bent on explora-
tion, and they become so annoyed at their mother's levity that
they growl and snap at all her playful efforts, and occasionally
fly into paroxysms of rage. "Blanco" is a lady possessed
of much low cunning, which has made her very unpopular
with the men. It was not expected that she would prove a
good mother, and she certainly is not ; her three small mites
would find it hard to get a living without human assistance.
But " Nell " promises to be in all respects a model parent.
She has always possessed a very uncertain temper, and the
responsibilities of a family have rendered her absolutely fierce.
One has to approach her nest with great caution and be
extremely careful not to do anything that she may consider
suspicious ; but when she is assured that one's intentions are
friendly, she will condescend to accept ministrations to her
wants.

' We have had " Brownie," another of the dogs, under
shelter for some time ; he is a very handsome beast, with nice
affectionate manners which make him rather a pet with all,
so that when he was found shivering violently in the cold,
pity was taken on him and he was brought under the fore-
castle. Careful observation, however, showed that he is really
rather a rascal, and that he is in the habit of putting on his

286 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

shivering fits when anyone appears in sight ; he is evidently
aware that if he is taken on board he will not only get a
warmer nest, but certain tit-bits which his soul desires.
So to-day we have hardened our hearts and put him out
again.

' There is a world of character in these animals of ours.
One of the greatest pities is that they cannot be made to
follow or to obey a word of command unless they are in
harness. They are great losers by it in missing many a walk.
To lead them continually about on a string is very trying, as
they pull hard the whole time, and it is odds that the dog
rather than the man directs the course of the walk ; at other
times they will be particularly meek and ingratiating, trotting
alongside and pressing their noses into one's mit, all in the
most companionable spirit, until one rashly slips the leash,
when in a moment they are off on their own devices, and are
seen no more until a wild hubbub at the kennels signifies
their return, and someone has to rush out to prevent a fight.

' The sport they most dearly love is to worry a seal. The
hunting instinct is paramount ; the most listless, weary, bored-
looking dog or team of dogs has only to catch sight of the
black dots afar off over the snow which signify the presence
of seals, to become electrified into a state of wild excitement.
If a person has a single animal on leash, the chances are that
he is caught unprepared and the next moment finds himself
without a dog or being dragged violently along on his stomach :
if he is with a team harnessed to a heavy sledge, a load which a
moment before appeared to be taking all heart out of the animals,
becomes the merest bagatelle, and he is lucky if he has time
to add his own weight and so prevent himself from being left
behind.

In the early part of the winter, when the seals came up
frequently, loose dogs immediately made for their haunts, and
the distant furious barking would soon tell what was going
forward. We did our best to capture these stray animals and
prevent the slaughter of the unfortunate seals, but of course
we were not always successful, and more than one lifeless form

I902J 'SHORT COMMONS' 287

was found to tell the tale of these ravages. In each case the
wretched seal had been literally worried to death ; there were no
wounds on the body worth mentioning — in fact, the hide is far
too thick and tough for a dog's teeth to penetrate. The fiends
must have danced round their unfortunate victim, rushing in
and snapping at him from every side and giving him not an
instant's peace until life was extinct. The tormentors did not
attempt, and in fact it is doubtful if they would have been
able, to feed off their victim. Soon after he ceased to show
sport they must have quietly trotted away in search of fresh
excitement. The fact that they cannot get food in this
manner is a distinct advantage, as it means that they are
forced eventually to come back to the ship.'

Later on a rather curious incident occurred in this connec-
tion. A few days before the dog team was required for a sledge
trip to the south, the masters of two dogs — ' Birdie,' a powerful,
timid, nervous beast, and ' Snatcher,' a lighter-built animal —
took them for a walk on leash, and after a time somewhat
stupidly let them run with their chains, thinking that thus
handicapped they could be caught again without difficulty;
but the animals, rejoicing in their freedom, soon disap-
peared from sight. Days went by and there was no sign of
them, and finally, much to my annoyance, I had to start with-
out them. On my return a fortnight later, I learnt that after
a long absence 'Snatcher' had suddenly appeared, very worn
out, thin, and hungry ; and guessing seals were at the bottom
of the trouble, a search party had gone some way along the
coast to the north and eventually discovered ' Birdie ' in a
starving condition and pinned close down to the snow by his
chain, which was solidly frozen beneath the body of a huge
dead seal. The dogs must have worried the seal to death, and
in the scrimmage the latter must have rolled over ' Birdie's '
chain, holding him a fast prisoner ; but it is curious that he
lay there and starved within reach of plenty, and one wonders
also how long the other animal voluntarily submitted to
starvation rather than desert his companion. One never quite
learns what are the rights of a story like this in real life.

288 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

^August 19.— From the hills to-day I was astonished to see
that there was open water within nine or ten miles of us. It
cuts round close to the islets in Erebus Bay, and sweeps in a
curve across the strait ; and although young ice is again form-
ing, not a scrap of the old can be seen beyond this line. I do
not think that a ship was ever frozen in in polar regions with
the sea so constantly and completely clearing within view ; and
wholly ignorant as we were of these conditions on our arrival,
it is certainly providential that we should have fallen on such
a secure spot for our winter quarters. Except, perhaps, for
New Harbour on the opposite side of the strait, I doubt if
there is a place for many miles where we could have lain with-
out being subject to appalling dangers and difficulties. During
the gales our over-bold members have had difficulty in finding
their way back to the ship over the solid firm floe : what would
have been their case if these same gales had broken up the floe
and swept it away to the north ?

' Shackleton has invented a new sledge, or rather a vehicle
to answer the same purpose, much to the amusement of his
messmates, who scoff unmercifully. The manufacture of this
strange machine has been kept the profoundest secret between
the inventor and the maker, our excellent carpenter. It was to
burst suddenly on our awestruck world, to carry immediate
conviction as it trundled easily over the floe, to revolutionise
all ideas of polar travelling, and once and for all to wipe the
obsolete sledge from off the surface of the snow. An inventor
in our community can make certain of receiving critical atten-
tion and outspoken advice, and in this case there was no
reticence at all. Advice was most freely given, but it was
generally to the effect that it would be kind to remove such an
eyesore by immediate burial and oblivion. But the inventor
refused to be drawn, and rolled his machine with difficulty, but
with the light of enthusiasm still burning in his eye. It was
the queerest sort of arrangement, consisting of two rum-barrels
placed one in front of the other and acting as wheels to a
framework on which the load was intended to be placed ; the
manner in which the whole machine wobbled as it was pushed

1902] RETURN OF THE SUN 289

forward on such ungainly rollers can be well imagined. This
new toy continued to give pleasure to the inventor, and inci-
dentally to many others, for some hours ; and as I came in,
Barne was assisting Shackleton to rig it with t?ie dinghy's sails —
I do not know with what success, but I can very well imagine.'

Of course this machine was very soon neglected and for-
gotten, but in justice to the inventor it ought to be added that
there were times when the snow surface about us was so hard
that it would have been quite possible to resort to wheeled
traffic, and I am sure that for many purposes a very light cart
with broad-tyred wheels would have been extremely useful.
But I cannot conceive that a rum-cask would ever prove a
desirable addition to a vehicle !

' August 21. — . . . The sun returns to us to-day, but, alas
and alack ! we could get no sight of it. A few hours of calm
in the morning were succeeded by whirling snow-squalls from
the south, and each lull was followed by a wild burst of wind.
I was glad enough to have everyone on board under such
unsettled conditions, and at noon when we had hoped to
be far over the hills, we could see only vast sheets of gleaming
snow.

'August 22. — . . . An ideal day for our first view of the
long-absent sun : the sky was gloriously clear, and in its vaulted
arch the strong returning light of day hid all except the
brightest stars, and these wore but a pale semblance of their
winter aspect. The air was mild and the temperature ranging
up to 5°, as, in high spirits, many of the officers started to
mount the steep hill-slopes, determined to have a good look
at our long-absent friend. I went myself to the top of Crater
Hill, a thousand feet above the floe, to watch for the returning
orb ; at noon, when it was due north, it rested behind the long
foot-slope of Erebus, but as it travelled westward its altitude
decreased far less rapidly than that of the slope, and gradually
the refracted glowing ellipse crept from behind that obstacle
and stood clear, dazzling our unaccustomed sight with its
brilliancy. For long our blinking eyes remained fixed on that
golden ball and on the fiery track of its reflection ; we seemed
VOL. I. u

290 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

to bathe in that brilliant flood of light, and from its flashing
rays to drink in new life, new strength, and new hope. This
glorious sun was bringing the light of day and some measure
of warmth to the bleak, desolate region about us, and heaven
only knows how far prophetic thoughts took us over its track-
less wastes before those beneficent rays should again vanish
and sombre darkness once more descend. And so we gazed,
saying little but thinking much, until the chill of the air
reminded us that, however great the promise, summer itself
was not yet upon us.

' With full daylight each detail of our landscape once more
stands clear, and the view from Crater Hill is magnificent.

' From Arrival Bay a line of rocky ridges runs towards
Castle Rock, facing the north-west and gradually rising in
height, with four distinct eminences, of which two are well-
formed craters ; the fourth is almost on a level with Crater
Hill, and therefore nearly touches the sky-line ; behind it
Castle Rock, rising to 1,350 feet, shows in sharp precipitous
outline, a black shadow against the snowy background of
Erebus. It is a high, hilly country, this foreground, with
many a black mass of rock and many a slope of smooth
white snow ; in itself it might be called a fine rugged scene,
but how dwarfed it all is by that mighty mountain behind,
which, in spite of its twenty geographical miles of distance,
seems to frown down on us. Even Castle Rock, with its
near bold eminence, is but a pigmy to this giant mass, which
from its broad spreading foot-slopes rises, with fold on fold of
snowy whiteness, to its crater summit, where, 13,000 feet above
the sea, it is crowned with a golden cloud of rolling vapour.

' The eastern slope of Erebus dips to a high saddle-backed
divide, beyond which the snowy outline rises to the summit ot
Terror, whence a long slope runs gradually down to sea-level
far to the east. From point to point these two huge mountains
fill up nearly 90° of our horizon, and from this southern
side offer almost a complete prospect of snow-covered land.
Beyond Castle Rock commences the low isthmus which con-
nects our small peninsula to the main island, and as it bends

I902] VIEW FROM OUR HILLS 291

slightly to the east it can be seen from Crater Hill. In run •
ning towards the right slope of Erebus and gradually broaden-
ing to its foot-slopes, it sweeps out on either side a huge bay.

' The eastern bay is filled with the perpetual level plain of
the fast barrier-ice ; scarce a vestige of bare rock is to be seen
in the vast extent of its coastline, and it would appear that
climatic conditions have rendered it a focus for snow, though
an area little swept by wind ; the mere view in this direction
suggests the idea, and the experience of the Terror sledge
party goes far to substantiate it.

' The western bay is cleared of ice in the summer ; its
northern limit is marked by a bare rocky cape, and in a few
other spots on its coastline the bare rock stands boldly out.
Three black volcanic islets stand well within its shelter, and it
is to these that the open water has extended since the late
gales. This open water is now again frozen over, but the dark
colour of the young ice forms a strong contrast to the older
snow-covered surface, and this darker shade stretches to the
north-west beyond sight.

' Looking to the eastward from Crater Hill, one has Pram
Point almost beneath one's feet, and one gets a good view of
the regular parallel ridges that fringe the coast ; beyond these
ridges stretches the immeasurable barrier surface, limited to
the eye by one long clear sweep of perfectly regular horizon
stretching from the eastern slopes of Terror through more
than 70° of arc to the eastern slope of White Island. Beyond
this long stretch of uniformity the eye can follow the sky-line
over the three comparatively low craters of the White Island,
till it dips once more for a short space to the horizontal, and
rises over the sharp steep end of the distant bluff. One is
now looking south, in the direction which involves most of
our hopes and fears ; and as one gazes on the light shades of
the distant snow-fields, one realises the impotence of specu-
lating on what may lie beyond, and grows ever more impatient
for the hour when we shall march forth with the high hope of
solving the mystery.

* Leaving the south once more, the eye, following the

292 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

sky-line, passes on over the high outline of Black Island, if island
it is, and then rises and traverses the lofty peaked cone of
Mount Discovery, from which it falls slightly to an elevated
saddle-back ; and then suddenly it travels to a far greater
distance, and towards the south-west it rests on very distant
hills in front of which a huge glacier descends to sea-level.
Here one pauses to consider, for this also may be a direction
of promise. Can this be the road to the west, the path by
which we shall pierce that rock-bound coastline ? Again one
sees the futility of speculation : we must go and see.

* Meanwhile the eye has passed on to scan that great
frowning range of mountains to the west which has looked
down on us in such ghostly, weird fashion throughout the
winter months. Seen now in the daylight, what a wild con-
fusion of peaks and precipices, foothills, snow-fields, and glaciers
it presents ! How vast it all is ! and how magnificent must
be those mountains when one is close beneath them ! But
what of our travellers to the west ? Here the sky-line runs
from peak to peak with ridges that can rarely dip below
12,000 feet, and it is beyond hope that they can scale to such
heights.

* But northward of west these lofty ridges fall again, and
the ranges which stretch on beyond till they are lost in the
fiery glow of the sun are lower than this monstrous pile to the
west. Perhaps it is in this direction that we shall conquer the
western land. It is to the west more than anywhere one
realises the impossibility of understanding the conditions until
our parties have been forth to face them ; that there will be
immense difficulties there can be little doubt. To expect to
find a smooth and even road in that great chaos of hills and
glaciers would be to expect the impossible, and I feel that if
we ever do get beyond those mountains we shall have deserved
well of our country.

' Not more than fifteen miles away in this direction one can
see the long shadow marking the decayed pinnacled ice which
puzzled us so much as we approached our winter quarters.
One cannot trace the position and direction of its origin, but

1902] GORGEOUS SUNLIGHT EFFECTS 293

if, as we suppose, it is a discharge of the inland- ice, and if it
continues as we saw it at the end, it is certain to form a most
formidable obstacle to our western exploration.

' Finally, from the vantage point of Crater Hill one can
now obtain an excellent bird's-eye view of our own snug winter
quarters. Even from this distance the accumulation of snow
which has caused us so much trouble can be seen ; the ship
looks to be half-buried, and a white mantle has spread over the
signs of our autumn labours and over the masses of refuse
ahead of the ship. Hodgson's biological shelters show as faint
shadowed spots, and numerous sharp black dots show that our
people are abroad and that work is being pushed ahead.

' Over all the magnificent view the sunlight spreads with
gorgeous effect after its long absence ; a soft pink envelops the
western ranges, a brilliant red gold covers the northern sky ;
to the north also each crystal of snow sparkles with reflected
light. The sky shows every gradation of light and shade ;
little flakes of golden sunlit cloud float against the pale blue
heaven, and seem to hover in the middle heights, whilst far
above them a feathery white cirrus shades to grey on its unlit
sides.

' Returning to the floes about one o'clock, inspired by the
scenes which we had just witnessed, we informed the men that
the sun could now be seen from Hut Point. To our astonish-
ment there was little or no enthusiasm. Everyone seemed
extremely pleased to hear it was there, and glad to think that
it had kept its appointment so punctually ; but, after all, they
had seen the sun a good many times before, and in the next
few months they were likely to see it a good many times again,
there was no object in getting excited about it ; so a few set
off at a run for the point, some followed at a walk, as it seemed
the right thing to do, but a good number remained on board
and had their dinner. It is perhaps as well that we do not all
take our pleasures in the same way or rejoice in the same
sentiments, and, at any rate, it is evident that those who can
so passively observe the coming day cannot have been deeply
affected by the vanishing night.'

294 THE VOYAGE OF THE ' DISCOVERY ' [Aug.

^August 23. — A glorious morning; have been away over
the hills, clambering along Arrival ridges on the sharp angular
stones heedless of the wear of my finneskoes, and sliding
down the snow-slopes regardless of the wear on other articles
of clothing. This latter has been a very common practice of
mine during the winter ; on the smooth hard snow one can get
up a capital speed without the assistance of a toboggan, but
the practice has meant the frequent renewal of a patch behind.

' The air to-day was splendidly exhilarating, with a tempera-
ture of — 10° and a wind just sufficiently keen to make climbing
a pleasure. Erebus showed a column of golden smoke rising
perpendicularly for about five hundred feet and then streaming
horizontally to the east; to have had this splendid beacon
giving throughout our winter a continuous record of the upper
air currents is luck indeed.

' What unique and glorious mountains we have about us !
Nowhere else can there be such vast masses snowed to the
base, and hence possibly nowhere such great altitudes above
the snow-line. One wonders when the mountaineer, having
conquered all the peaks of the known world, will descend on
this lonely region, for here indeed lies a field where the bold-
ness of man might have play for many a year ; as parties could
be left and relieved in successive seasons with practical
certainty, the idea is by no means inconceivable.

' To-day one could see the islets to the north looking very
black and grim ; besides the group of three or four some ten
miles away, there is a curious turtle-backed rock not more than
three or four miles from Castle Rock, and far across the strait
I could count five distinct islets bearing about W. by N. A
low bank of cloud to the north shut out the sun, whose
position was only marked by the intensity of the golden-red
glow above ; small fleecy intermediate clouds were floating
about Erebus, golden or grey as they passed from light to
shadow,

' The scene is so rarely beautiful that on the hill-tops one
seems to breathe inspiration from the keen air, and one's
thoughts are compelled to soar out of the common groove ; but

I902] THE FEAST OF THE SUN 295

as one descends to the ship they fall back on the more
practical details of our life, and little remains in the memory.
Here below the broad light of day has revealed not a little that
is ugly. The ugliness lay concealed under the glamour of the
dim mysterious twilight, but now the traces of man are all too
obvious : here is a little heap of dirty rubbish, there an empty
tin with a gaudy label, and everywhere the soil of traffic stain-
ing the purity of the snow. It is all a little too much like
a Bank-holiday picnic.

' It is a curious fact that throughout the winter most of the
officers have preferred to take their walks alone. Many, no
doubt, would think that the fact was by no means curious, and
that one would naturally wish to escape from companionship
which he was so constantly forced to endure ; and, indeed,
before we sailed I constantly heard the remark, " How sick
you will get of one another ! " As a matter of fact, we are not
at all sick of each other's company, and if it transpires that the
plans of two individuals coincide as regards the day's walk,
they are only too delighted to go together. The real reason ^
for separation is that plans rarely do coincide. Nearly every-
one likes to walk with an object, and no two people have
precisely the same object, and if they have, it is probably not
convenient to their work to leave the ship at the same hour.
It has also to be remembered that when two persons are
muffled up with Uttle showing but their noses, conversation
can only be carried on with difficulty, and an argument is
impossible.'

^ August 2s^. — . . . Yesterday we kept the Feast of the
Sun, and celebrated it with an excellent dinner. Turtle soup,
tinned fish, seal cutlets, and mutton, washed down with
" Heidsieck, '95." The warrant officers joined us at dinner,
and afterwards we had the usual small concert, and proceed-
ings were kept up late and with the greatest hilarity. Armitage
brewed punch, but after previous experience few were rash
enough to partake of it, and the few are repenting heartily
to-day.

* Everywhere on board now is stir and excitement ; sledges

296 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Aug.

are being put together, provisions weighed out, dog-harness
prepared, fur clothing overhauled, and each item of equipment
carefully reconsidered. Everything is being pushed forward
for a start on Monday next ; the first party away, others will
quickly follow, and soon, it is to be hoped, our travelling will
be in full swing.'

'August 29. — . . . For some time past it has been
amusing on entering the warm, comfortable living-quarters,
to see the table strewn with garments, reels of cotton, skeins
of thread, tape, thimbles, packets of needles, and every other
necessary of the tailor's art, and to see gathered around the
table our whole company plying their needles as though they
were being sweated by some iron-handed taskmaster. Indeed,
I am not sure that this is not the case : if we consider " King
Frost " as a taskmaster, he is certainly an exacting one. This
sort of thing is bound to go on until we actually start on our
journeys, because no one is ever quite satisfied with what he
has made, and when a garment is completed there is always
some suggested alteration that promises to be a slight improve-
ment ; and after the spring journeys, when we have had more
experience, the probability is that nearly everything will be
altered again. However, it is very cheering to see so much
enthusiasm displayed, and it augurs well for our work that
everyone should be taking it so seriously, and should be so
evidently bent on making it a success.

'So our only sewing-machine clatters away all day long,
whilst bent fingers are stitching busily, and the whole ship is
alive with the bustle of our active preparations. I have issued
orders for sledging to commence next week, and for the gear
to be ready for packing on Monday.'

' Monday, September i. — . . . All will be ready for a start
to-morrow. The wind has sprung up again, but it is com-
paratively mild, and we are packing the sledges. To-morrow
at this hour I hope we shall be spinning along to the north
with the dogs, to test our arrangements, the climatic con-
ditions, and the discipline of the animals; whilst Armitage
and Barne, with a party of ten men, go forth on a similar

SHIP AT THE END OF THE WINTER.

1902] READY FOR SPRING SLEDGING 297

errand, as well as to bring back the depot which we established
last year under such uncomfortable conditions. From this com-
mencement we shall work up to our more ambitious projects.'
So now the long winter, with its darkness and forced
inactivity, was at an end. Although our faces looked pale and
white in the glare of the returning day, beneath the pallor lay
every evidence of unimpaired vitality ; and believing ourselves
to be in the perfection of health, as we were of spirits, all
thoughts turned to the coming season and to prospects which
could look nothing but bright and hopeful.

298 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

CHAPTER X

HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING

History of Polar Sledge travelling — Early English Sledge Travellers —
Ross — McClintock — Peary — Nansen — Visit to Christiania — Difificulties
in Selecting Articles of Equipment — Comparison of Sledging Conditions
in the North and South Polar Regions — Objects of the Sledge Traveller
— Description of our Equipment— The Sledge — The Tent— The
Sleeping-bag — Sledging-food— Calculation of Allowances — Packing —
Cooking-apparatus — Cooking-lamp — Permanent weights of a Sledge
Party — Spare Clothing — Medical Bag — Details Concerning Clothing
and General Equipment.

Much more in this great work should we survey

The plot of situation, and its model,

Question surveyors, know our estate,

How able such a work to undertake. —Shakespeare.

It may be fairly claimed that polar sledging is an English
production ; it is the direct outcome of that feverish energy in
exploration which has distinguished our race for so many
centuries and has led them to the performance of such glorious
pioneer work within the Arctic Circle. To give my readers
some idea of the history of sledge travelling, I cannot do
better than quote the words of one who had perhaps the
largest share in its making, and who gave more care and
attention to the subject than has anyone before or since. The
following words were written by Sir Leopold McClintock more
than thirty years ago, and give a good idea of the conditions
under which this mode of travelling was evolved, the objects
it sought to accomplish, and the state of perfection to which
it had then been brought :

1902] SIR L. McCLINTOCK ON SLEDGING 299

' In early Arctic voyaging the ship alone was relied upon
for penetrating into unknown seas; it was not until the second
and third voyages of Parry and the second voyage of Sir John
Ross — that is, between 182 1 and 1834 — that sledging was
commenced and a number of short journeys were made,
mainly by the assistance of the Esquimaux, whose methods
were closely observed and more or less imitated.

' But our seamen had not yet familiarised themselves with
the idea that it was quite possible for well-equipped Europeans
not only to exist, but to travel in an Arctic climate, as well as
the Esquimaux themselves ; and it was not until the Franklin
Search Expeditions were sent out, between 1848 and 1854,
that men seriously reflected upon the possibility of any ex-
tensive exploration on foot; and no more powerful incentive
could have been imagined to rouse the utmost energies of
the searchers than the protracted absence of the missing
expedition,

' The endurance of the hardiest was called forth, and the
talent of invention evoked and stimulated, until at length a
system of sledging was elaborated such as I will now proceed
to describe.

' . . . The late Sir James Ross, who had served with very
great credit in all the six voyages of Parry and John Ross
from 1818 to 1834, formed the connecting link between them
and the searching expeditions which commenced in 1848, and
the first of which he commanded. He was acquainted with
the flat sledges of the Hudson Bay Territory, which alone can
be used in deep soft snow, gliding as they do over its surface ;
he was also acquainted with the Greenland dog sledge, with
its high narrow runners shod with ivory or bone, and which
cuts down through the usually thin layer of snow and runs
upon the ice beneath ; he was familiar with the various
modifications of these typical forms which had been used in
the Arctic expeditions of Parry and John Ross.

' He had moreover made several journeys with the natives
of Boothia Felix, culminating in his discovery of the Magnetic
Pole, and on one of these journeys he was absent from his ship

300 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

for the th€7i unprecedented period of twenty-nine days. It was
under his directions that our sledges and tents were made in
1848; and these designs, with comparatively sHght modifica-
tions, have continued in favour in all subsequent expeditions.

' The tent requires little description. It is a pent-roof
about seven feet high along the ridge, supported on boarding
pikes or poles crossed at each end, and covering an oblong
space sufficient to enclose the party when closely packed
together ; its duty is merely to afford shelter from the wind
and snowdrift. . . . The sledge is a more important article of
equipment. That which our experience has proved to be the
most suitable is a large runner sledge ; the runners are rather
broad — that is, three inches — and they stand high, carrying the
lading about a foot above the ice. An average sledge is three
feet wide and ten feet long, and is drawn by seven men. It is
constructed with only just so much strength as is absolutely
necessary, since every pound of weight saved in wood and iron
enables so much more provisions to be carried. All our
sledges have been drawn by the seamen, and the labour of
doing so is most excessive. The first sledge expedition in the
search for Franklin was led by Sir James Ross in person. By
very great efforts a distance out and home of 500 statute miles
was accomplished in forty days ; but out of the twelve picked
men by whom the two sledges were drawn five were completely
knocked up, and every man required a considerable time under
medical care to recruit his strength after this lengthened period
of intense labour, constant exposure, and insufficient food.

' It is necessary to apprehend clearly the nature of the
surface over which our sledges had to travel. People un-
acquainted with the subject commonly fall into one or the
other extreme, and suppose that we either skate over glassy ice
or walk on snow-shoes over snow of any conceivable depth.
Salt-water ice is not so smooth as to be slippery ; to skate
upon it is very possible, though very fatiguing. But hardly is
the sea frozen over when the snow falls and remains upon it all
the winter. When it first falls the snow is soft and perhaps a
foot or fifteen inches deep ; but it is blown about by every

1902] SIR L. McCLINTOCK ON SLEDGING 301

wind until, having become like the finest sand and hardened
under a severe temperature, it consolidates into a covering of
a few inches in depth and becomes so compact that the sledge-
runner does not sink more than an inch or so. . . . This
expanse of snow is rarely smooth ; its surface is broken into
ridges or furrows by the strong winds. These ridges are the
sastrugi of Admiral Wrangell ; and although the inequalities
are seldom more than a foot high, they add greatly to the
labour of travelling, especially when obliged to cross them at
right angles. . . .

' . . . Having accompanied Sir James Ross on his sledge
journey in 1849, I was entrusted with the preparations for
sledge-travelling in the second and third search expeditions
under Austin and Belcher ; and this method now became
recognised as an important feature of these voyages.

' The utmost attention was devoted to the travelling equip-
ments and the methods adopted by Wrangell and other distin-
guished Arctic travellers ; and the spring parties of the second
expedition set out in 1851 on April 15, instead of May 15 as
in 1849, and sledges carrying forty days' provisions were dragged
with less labour than thirty days' rations had previously occa-
sioned. Moreover, the allowance was a more liberal one.
The result was a corresponding increase of work done — one
party remaining absent for eighty days and making a journey of
900 miles. But in 1853 and 1854 the sledge parties of the
third searching expedition did still better service — one party
accomplished about 1,400 miles in 105 days. Another party,
having several depots along its line of route and favourable
circumstances generally, travelled nearly 1,350 miles in seventy
days.'

From the above it will be clearly seen that to the English
explorers of the early nineteenth century belong the honour of
being the first to discover that, again to quote Sir Leopold,
* the ice which arrests the progress of the ship forms the high-
way for the sledge ' ; they were the first civilised beings to use
that highway, and on it they accomplished work which has
remained, and will probably remain, unsurpassed. Of his own

302 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

share in this development Sir Leopold speaks most modestly,
but a comparison of the periods of absence and the distances
covered by the parties of the 1853 expedition with similar
records in 1849 are sufficient to show how great it was, more
especially when it is known that it was he himself who conducted
the longest journey of the later expedition.

To realise the great revolution which had been effected in
Arctic exploration, it has but to be considered that in 1820 the
fact of an explorer venturing beyond his ice-bound ship had
barely been considered, whereas little more than thirty years
later it could be written of these far Northern regions : ' It is
now a comparatively easy matter to start with six or eight men
and six or seven weeks' provisions, and to travel some 600
miles across snowy wastes and frozen seas from which no
sustenance can be obtained.'

Although these sledging records of half a century ago have
not been surpassed, it would be incorrect to say that there has
been no improvement in sledging methods ; with the march of
the times and the advance of mechanical skill many details
have been improved, whilst the comfort of the sledge-traveller
has been increased and his hardships mitigated ; but that the
fundamental principles have remained unaltered is sufficiently
proved by the figures.

Since the high-tide mark of 1853 England has not main-
tained her reputation in the sledging world ; one effort of
importance alone has been made— when in 1875 the 'Alert'
and ' Discovery ' were sent forth. The sledging outfit of this
expedition was again arranged by Sir Leopold McClintock, but
the margins of strength and safety were rather enlarged, so
that in many respects the equipment had retrograded. In spite
of this, long journeys were made in very adverse circumstances;
and had the expedition been able to continue its work for
more than a single year, improvements in the outfit would
doubtless have been tried and further advancements suggested.
In the last years of the century the Jackson-Harmsworth ex-
pedition spent three winters in Franz-Josef Land and carried
out several sledge expeditions with dogs and ponies ; but here.

I902] LATER DEVELOPMENTS 303

again, the effort was not sufficiently sustained to add greatly to
our knowledge.

Since 1853 whatever improvement has been made in
sledging methods has been developed abroad, and it is abroad
therefore that the modern traveller must look for all that is
latest and best in this respect. But here also he is met by a
want of continuity and system ; and whilst he pauses to admire
the splendid efforts of individual travellers he cannot but
deplore the absence of a more systematic correlation of their
experiences, enabling each to benefit more fully by the diffi-
culties which his predecessor conquered. Notwithstanding
this drawback, however, there is much to be learnt from these
experiences : the inquirer will at least have embarked on a
history of absorbing interest, and he cannot but emerge a
wiser man if he follows it through the wild and sometimes
tragic expeditions of the latter half of the nineteenth century
and studies the historic journeys of such great explorers as
Peary and Fridtjof Nansen.

The sledge equipment which we took to the South was the
result of much consultation ; in arranging it, I had to depend
largely on the experience of others, and especially on the
experience of one, Mr. Armitage, whose interests were identi-
fied with the expedition. From the commencement of that
busy year of preparation which preceded the departure of the
expedition, when on my own inexperienced shoulders alone
rested the responsibility of every department of an undertaking
of such considerable magnitude, I realised the primary im-
portance of an efficient sledging outfit, and I strove to glean
from every source such information as should serve to see us
properly provided in this respect.

The difficulties were great. In England a quarter of a
century had elapsed since sledging expeditions of magnitude
had been accomplished, and during that time not a single sledge,
and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made
in this country. The popular accounts of former expeditions
were not written with a view to supply the minute detail that
was required, and no memory could be expected to retain

304 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

these details after the lapse of such a time : the art was lost.
But, fortunately, the genius of Nansen had transferred it or
built up a new art in Norway. Having modernised the
methods of the older English sledge-travellers, he had gathered
about him a small body of tradesmen cognisant of his ideas
and capable of carrying them out. Christiania had become,
so to speak, the centre of the sledging industry, and within
easy reach of the city lived and worked the man who had
made it so, always ready to give advice and assistance to all
who needed it, and always ready to help those who, like
myself, were embarking on the field of exploration in which he
had played so eminent a part.

In the autumn of 1900 I visited Christiania, and in Nansen's
company interviewed the various tradesmen who worked under
his superintendence, whilst obtaining many a practical hint
from the explorer himself. But now, as always, Nansen was
an extremely busy man, and, kind and considerate as he was,
it was impossible not to realise that one was robbing him of
hours which he could ill afford to spare.

Moreover, my own work was of such a nature as to necessi-
tate haste ; with so much to be done in England delay was
not permissible, and much as I should have liked to Unger and
increase my knowledge in this province, I was forced to curtail
my visit to the shortest possible limits. However, I had learnt
enough to give me a practical idea of the basis on which our
equipment should be collected. It seemed evident that we
should have to purchase in Norway some important part of our
outfit, but I saw no reason why the main portion should not
be made under our own superintendence in England, provided
we could supply patterns or full instructions to the makers.
Sledges, ski, and furs could be made and supplied from
Norway at a price and of a quality which we could not hope
to equal in England, even had we been prepared to issue the
fullest instructions and specifications, which we were not. On
the other hand, tents, clothing, cooking-apparatus, and other
details could be obtained in London if the necessary superin-
tendence were available.

1902] DIFFICULTIES IN SELECTING EQUIPMENT 305

Having some ideas and notes as to what our requirements
were, the question now in my mind was how these ideas should
be put into effect ; with such a vast amount of work connected
with other departments, I could not possibly devote the
necessary time to these details, and even had I attempted to
do so I should have been handicapped at every turn by my
want of practical experience. I was for some time in this
dilemma before Sir Clements Markham forwarded me a letter
written by Mr. Armitage, who was at that time serving in the
P. and O. service in the Far East. Armitage, as I knew, had
served in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, but it was not
until I read this letter that I realised how invaluable such an
. experience might be ; the letter was written with the intention
of suggesting the lines on which our sledging outfit should be
prepared, and I saw at once that it contained the ideas at
which I had been so ineffectually attempting to grasp.
Armitage met me on his return to England, and agreed to
serve as second in command of the expedition, provided the
permission of his directors could be obtained. This was
granted, and within the month, after numerous consultations,
Armitage was in full direction of that important part of our
preparation, the sledging outfit. Time was all too short for
the excessive care and attention that were needed, but, thanks
to untiring efforts, we had collected all that was necessary in
this respect before the expedition left the London Docks in
July 1901.

In describing the various articles of this equipment, I shall
explain in some detail their origin, and endeavour to point out
in what respects they suited our purpose, and in what respects
they failed. It must be remembered that in making long
sledge journeys in the South we had no previous experience to
go on except that which had been gained in the North ; we
were forced to assume that Southern conditions were more or
less similar to those of the North, and in so far as they proved
different our sledging outfit ran the risk of failure.

We found, in fact, that in many respects our sledging
conditions differed from those in the North, and it is just to

VOL. I. X

3o6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

consider all our sledge journeys as pioneer efforts. It is
perhaps as well to indicate these differences here; they are
essentially climatic and geographical.

In regard to climate, the conditions in the South are more
severe than those in the North ; the spring temperatures are
lower, and the summer temperatures far lower. The early
spring travellers in the North have rarely recorded a tempera-
ture below —50°, whereas with our early parties the ther-
mometer frequently fell below — 60°, and at its lowest stood
at —68'^ ; in the Arctic summer travellers have experienced
temperatures of -f4o'^ and even -f 50°, whilst in the height of
our Southern summer the thermometer rarely rose above
freezing-point, even on the great snow-plains adjacent to the
sea-level ; and when we were forced to explore at great
altitudes, we were fortunate if it showed higher than —10° at
this season.

The effect of these generally low temperatures was naturally
to increase the hardships to which the sledge-travellers were
exposed, and of which so much has been written, while it is
doubtful whether we could have so well withstood this greater
intensity of cold had we not been possessed of those improve-
ments to the sledging outfit which have been added in the
years that have elapsed since the great English journeys of
1850. But the low summer temperature has one advantage,
although we were not fated to gain greatly by it, in that the
snowy surface of the sea-ice never gets into that sodden, slushy
condition which obtains in the latter part of the Northern
summer, and which prevents sledging operations being under-
taken after the month of June in the Arctic Regions. Except
in a few places where dust or grit has been blown on to it, the
surface of the Southern sea-ice remains hard throughout the
summer ; and as there are many places where it does not
break up until the latter part of February, it is quite possible
to conceive sledging being carried on over its surface
until that month, which corresponds with the Northern
August.

A circumstance, however, that is far more objectionable to

I902] SLEDGING CONDITIONS COMPARED 307

the Southern traveller than the extremity of temperature is the
frequency of wind. It is perhaps too broad a generalisation
to say that Arctic journeys have usually been made under fine-
weather conditions, but few, if any, Arctic travellers have been
subjected to the distressing frequency of blizzards and strong
winds that added so much to our discomfort in the South.
Here again, therefore, the Southern traveller is at a disadvan-
tage from a climatic point of view, and the effect is to increase
his discomforts and reduce the distance he is able to march,
for it is only on the very rare occasions on which a sail may
be used that wind brings any compensating advantage. In
general, therefore, from a climatic point of view, the South is
at a considerable disadvantage as compared with the North in
sledge -travelling.

The geographical difference between the work of the
Northern and the Southern sledge-traveller is as great as the
climatic, if not greater. With the exception of Nansen's and
Peary's journeys into the interior of Greenland, the sledge
journeys of the North have almost invariably been performed
over level if not smooth sea-ice, and it is especially to be
remembered that those record journeys to which Sir Leopold
McClintock refers were made amongst the frozen channels of
an archipelago. If sea-ice is much broken up and hummocked,
it may constitute one of the worst travelling surfaces, but if it
is smooth it is undoubtedly the best that exists. In very
general terms, therefore, with the exceptions I have men-
tioned, the travelling of the North has been carried on over a
comparatively good surface, and those travellers who constitute
the exception in having ventured on the inland surfaces have
made it abundantly clear that the difficulties are far more
formidable than are found on anything but the most hum-
mocked sea-ice. Turning now to the South, it will be seen
that everywhere the explorer's ship is brought up by solid land
or by some mighty wall resembling that of the Great Ice
Barrier ; to pass beyond his ship, therefore, the explorer must
either travel over land or over great and ancient snow-fields
which possess a similar surface. Judging from our present

X 2

3o8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

knowledge of the Antarctic Regions, it is doubtful whether
extensive journeys will ever be made over the sea-ice.

We have, therefore, this great geographical diiiference
between the North and the South : the greater part of
Northern travelling has been and will be done on sea-ice,
but the greater part of Southern travelling has been and will
be done over land surfaces, or what in this respect are their
equivalents.

The relative merits of these surfaces, always excepting the
very rough hummocked sea-ice, is a matter which has been
placed beyond doubt by travellers in the North, and hence it
is of interest to relate our own experience with regard to it.
On travelling over the Great Barrier to the south, I was con-
stantly impressed by recognising the difficulties of surface so
graphically described by Nansen in his ' First Crossing of
Greenland,' and I came to the conclusion that the conditions
were very similar. But I was still more impressed by the
obvious impossibility of dragging a sledge over such a surface
at the rate maintained by the old English travellers on the
Northern sea-ice. I was so exercised on this score that I was
forced to wonder whether it might not be our own incapacity
for walking that caused us to fall so far short of those old
records, and the thought that the British race of explorers had
deteriorated so rapidly and so completely in stamina was by
no means a pleasant one. In the following year, in carrying
out our exploration to the west, I made no fewer than six
crossings over the sea-ice of the strait, a distance of about
forty-five statute miles, and the mystery was revealed when we
found that we could cover this distance with full weights in
two and a half days, while with light w-eights we actually got
across in one and a half day, covering over thirty-six miles in
a single day.

It was consoling to be free from immediate alarm in regard
to our racial stamina, but a flood of light was thrown on the
comparatively difficult nature of the barrier surface ; we saw
that the difficulties we had met in crossing it were by no
means existent only in our imagination. The barrier surface

I902J ANTARCTIC DISADVANTAGES 309

varied greatly, but, taking an average condition, I doubt
whether we should have approached twenty miles over it by
expending an equal amount of energy to that which gave us
the thirty-six miles over the sea-ice. This argues a great
difference, and it is one that cannot be wholly explained.
Of course the primary condition of importance on which
the excellence of a surface depends is its relative hardness.
The snow surface of the sea-ice, when we crossed it so
rapidly, was so hard that the sledges left but a faint track ; at
the same time, it was not too hard to prevent one's fur-clad
foot from getting some grip at each step. On the other hand,
the sledges always left a well-marked track in the barrier
surface, and at each step one sank ankle-deep and sometimes
even deeper. But this is by no means the only factor that
governs a surface ; wind, sun, temperature, and the age of the
snowfall are all elements that affect it, increasing or decreasing
the friction on the sledge-runners in a manner that is often
inexplicable and sometimes exasperating. All such changes,
however, will be dealt with in the accounts of our sledge
journeys ; for the present it is only necessary to point out that
it is difficult to define exactly what constitutes a good or a bad
sledging surface.

Besides being dependent on the climatic conditions and
on the nature of the snow over which he journeys, the sledge-
traveller has to consider other obstructions which more
obviously hinder his progress. On the sea-ice he may meet
with those elevated fragments pressed up by the movement
and distortion of the ice-sheet, which are commonly called
hummocks ; on sea or on land he may encounter regions
where the wind has ploughed the snow into furrows, the waves
between which are technically termed sastrugi; on the land-
ice he may meet vast ridges and chasms, cracks and crevasses,
mild and gentle undulations, or any other resultant of the
irresistible movement of an ice-sheet. All such obstacles are
very obvious deterrents, and exist both in the North and in
the South, but to a different degree. Sea-ice in the South,
as far as we know it, is extraordinarily free from hummocks.

3IO THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

and such is its geographical situation that the probability is
there are few places in the Antarctic Regions where the ice
will be found much pressed up; while in the North hum-
mocks have been the bane of many a sledge journey. In
regard to sastrugi, it is probable that such a wind-swept area
as the Antarctic outvies the more placid North ; indeed, I
doubt whether snow-waves have ever been seen before of such
giant size as some which we observed abreast of our windiest
gullies or on the high plateau of Victoria Land. In regard
to the disturbances of the vast land ice-sheets it is difficult to
institute any comparison with the North, but these formed a
sufficiently solid obstruction to many of our sledging efforts.

A general comparison of the sledging conditions met with
in the North and in the South cannot be said, therefore, to
be in favour of the latter, and it must be conceded that the
Antarctic sledge-traveller journeys under considerable relative
disadvantages : he has to meet severer climatic conditions, he
has to pull his sledges over heavier surfaces, and he is not
likely to encounter fewer obstacles in his path. Hence it is
probable that the distances recorded by the Northern travellers
will never be exceeded in the South.

I do not wish it to be inferred from what I have written
that the sledge-traveller does or should go forth in order to
make marching records ; but whatever his objectives may be,
it is obvious that they are best achieved by speed on the
march ; and hence where conditions are equal, speed and
the distance travelled are a direct gauge of the efficiency of
sledging preparations and of the spirit of those who undertake
this arduous service.

From the summary, necessarily brief, of the history of the
development of sledge-travelling which I have given, and the
equally brief account of the physical conditions under which
it is conducted, the reader will see that the object of the
traveller is to journey as far as possible beyond the limit to
which his ship can attain, and some idea of the problems that
are encountered in pursuit of this object will have been con-
veyed. The weight which can be dragged by a party is limited

I902] DESCRIPTION OF OUR EQUIPMENT 311

by the draught-power they possess, but it is also dependent on
the surface, the state of the sledge-runners, the manner in
which the sledges are loaded, and many other details. The
greater the proportion of food in this weight, the longer is the
possibility of absence ; but sledges must possess strength, and
therefore weight ; man must be sheltered and clothed, and this
cannot be done without weight ; and civihsed man requires
hot food, and must therefore drag the weight of his cooking-
apparatus and fuel.

The less that is eaten by any individual, the longer
the food will last ; but there is a limit where economy
ceases, and insufficient food produces loss of strength and
reduction of marches. The longer the marches, the greater
the distance covered ; but staleness awaits the over-pressed
marcher.

Good sledging is the nicest balance of all these conflicting
elements, and it is clear that it can only be accomplished by
the utmost attention to detail in preparation, the complete
exclusion of all but the bare necessities of life, and, above all
things, by the display of an unconquerable determination to
carry it through in face of all risks, dangers, or hardships.

Perhaps the most important part of the sledge-traveller's
outfit is the sledge itself. Our sledges had been made in Chris-
tiania, to comprise all those modifications and improvements
which had been suggested by the experience of Nansen, and on
the whole it is doubtful if we could have provided ourselves with
sledges more suitable to our various purposes. The main dif-
ferences between these sledges and those used by older explorers
were a decrease in breadth and an increase in runner surface.

Such a sledge as we used consists of two long runners,
slightly rounded beneath, with a strengthening rib above, and
curved up at each end. The strengthening rib is pierced with
holes at intervals, into which are tenoned the uprights, short
pillars of wood about four inches in length ; adjacent uprights
are joined by cross-bars, and the heads of the uprights on each
side are connected by long thin strips of wood, which end in
junction with the upturned ends of the runners. There are

312 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

four, five, or six pairs of uprights and cross-bars, according to
the length of the sledge.

In the numerous joints thus created only those which
connect the uprights to the cross-bars are rigid, and these are
strengthened by small steel stays bound to the frame with wire.
It is of the utmost importance that all other joints should be
flexible, in order that the sledge may have the fullest play over
a rough surface, and therefore all these joints are made with
lashings of either hide or tarred hemp. Hence the sledge,
when put together, is by no means a rigid structure. Lifted by
one corner, it can be distinctly seen to sag in the centre ; and
as it is dragged over a rough snow surface it is rarely possible
to see any portion of the runner which is not in contact with
the snow — in fact, it is very fascinating to watch a heavily laden
sledge winding its way over rough ground in this snake-like
manner. The load being distributed over a great area, no part
sinks too deeply.

Measured across from the centre of one runner to the
centre of the other, our sledges were all, with one exception,
I foot 5 inches. The runners themselves were 3I inches across,
so that the sledge track from side to side measured about
I foot 8| inches. In all we had twenty sledges when we began,
and this allowance proved barely sufficient for our two years'
work ; we could, indeed, well have done with half as many
again, but this was owing to much of the travelling being over
extremely rough country. These sledges were of various
lengths ; we had two of 1 2 feet, six of 1 1 feet, nine of 9 feet,
and three of 7 feet; of these the 11 -foot sledges proved by far
the most convenient for our work, though the 9-foot were much
used. A length of 12 feet seemed to pass just beyond the
limit of handiness ; whereas the very short sledges were com-
paratively stiff, and skidded about so much on a rough surface
that they were often more troublesome to pull than the heavier
and longer ones.

Taking 1 1 feet as about the best length for this type, it will
be seen that we have a comparatively long and narrow sledge
at considerable variance with the old Arctic type, which was

I902] THE SLEDGES 313

10 feet long and 3 feet broad. The advantages gained by the
longer sledge are an increased strength against racking strains
and an easier motion over inequalities of surface ; on the other
hand, the broader type has more stability and a greater and
more convenient stowage capacity. Our own sledges had to be
stowed with great care so as to bring the weight low, and even
thus over rough sastrugi they would frequently capsize ; in
spite of such disadvantages, however, I am inclined to favour
the longer and narrower form. The increase of runner surface
which was adopted by Nansen in what he named his 'ski
runners,' was a comparatively natural outcome of the new con-
dition of surface for which he prepared on his inland journey,
and as our conditions were very similar, it is a fortunate thing
that we possessed broad runners. There were many occasions
on which they were not needed, and when a light narrow
runner would have been all that was required ; but there were
others when we needed every inch of bearing surface we
possessed to support the sledges on the light soft snow.

The weight of an ii-foot sledge such as I have described
may be anything between 40 and 47 lbs., and this was none
too light for some of our purposes where the full strength of
the structure was required ; but on the level barrier I think it
would be possible to travel with a considerably lighter sledge.
The weight which can be placed on such a sledge varies
according to circumstance, but in general the full load may be
said to be about 600 lbs.

These sledges are made of ash, and it is of great importance
that the wood should be thoroughly well selected and seasoned.
In some of our sledges the wood was not above suspicion, and
caused some inconvenience. The most important part is the
runner, in which the grain should be perfectly straight and
even, otherwise it will splinter even when running over snow.
It is surprising what a lot of wear a good wood runner will
stand provided it is only taken over snow. Some of our 9-foot
sledges must have travelled over 1,000 miles, and there was
still plenty of wear left in the runners.

The older Northern sledges were shod with iron or steel.

314 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

and Nansen covered his Greenland sledge-runners with the
same material. The drawback to this is that it is liable to
rust, and in a rusty state the friction is of course much
increased. In his Northern journey Nansen substituted
German silver, a non-corrosive metal, for steel, and reported
the result as satisfactory; in consequence the runners of all
our sledges were covered with this metal, which added con-
siderably to their weight, though that quoted for the ii-foot
sledge includes this item This shoeing gives rise to a
difficulty, since there are certain conditions of surface when
German silver offers great friction, whereas it is impossible to
strip the runners to meet these conditions and then to replace
the metal. To get over this difficulty Nansen devised thin
under-runners of wood with light steel attachments, thus
providing for the condition when a wooden surface for the
runner would be desirable, but again adding to the weights
carried. As far as our experience went, both the German-
silver shoeing and the wood under-runner proved unsatisfac-
tory ; in nine cases out of ten on the snow surfaces over
which we travelled, wood runners offered less resistance than
metal, and though the idea of the under-runner is theoretically
good, we found that practically the thing was too flimsy ; the
snow tended to pack above it, and it was liable to become
loose and distorted. Moreover, it introduced a complication
where simplicity should be the first consideration. As far as
all our journeys made over the flat on snow surfaces were con-
cerned, the plain wood runner of the sledge itself, without any
covering, would have been amply sufficient, and in fact, as I
have pointed out, well-seasoned wood would stand far more wear
than could well be given it in the course of a single expedition.
But many of our journeys lay over hard rough ice or places
where sand and grit had been blown over the snow, and where
an unprotected wood runner would soon be torn to shreds. It
was here that the German silver should have served us, and to
some extent it did ; but in the main we found it altogether too
soft — grit was liable to score it deeply, and the metal once
pierced, the runner gave an infinity of trouble.

1902] SIZE OF SLEDGE PARTIES 315

The difficulties we were put to on account of our sledges
and sledge-runners will be mentioned in due course, but it is
as well to lay down here, for the guidance of future travellers
in these regions, such recommendations as arise out of our
experience.

It may be safely said that the ii-foot ski-runner sledge is a
good type for general purposes in the Antarctic Regions,
whether it is to be hauled by men or dogs. It would be a
good plan to have sledges made of different weights to suit
special circumstances. Under ordinary conditions such sledges
may be allowed to run on their wood runners, but if it is
desired to ascend glaciers or travel over rough ice, a steel-
protected runner is necessary. As a general rule, such a pro-
tection would only be required for a limited part of the journey,
and I do not think it would be difficult to devise one which
could be temporarily secured by clamps and detached when no
longer of use. The importance of selecting the wood of
which the sledges are made cannot be too strongly urged.
Though ash has been mostly used, I understand the American
hickory is also an excellently tough wood for the purpose.
Sledge-runners have also been made of elm and maple, either
of which offers little friction to the snow.

Before leaving the subject of sledges it is well to mention
the necessity of providing strong heavy ones for the ordinary
work about headquarters, for the travelling sledges would soon
be knocked to pieces at this. Three or four heavy rough
sledges with narrow iron-bound runners did all our heavy work
about the ship during her stay in the ice.

In point of numbers the ' Discovery's ' crew was far behind
the old Northern expeditions ; it was this fact that first decided
us, in arranging a sledge equipment for a condition where men,
and not dogs, would do most of the haulage, to divide our
parties into the smallest workable units. The old Northern
plan had allowed for parties of twelve, or at the least eight,
who were in all respects self-contained, but, having a common
tent and cooking arrangements, could not be subdivided. With-
out necessarily limiting the number of men in our parties, the

3i6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

system we aimed at was to divide them into units of three,
which should be self-contained, so that whenever it was advis-
able a party could be split up into threes, or three could be
detached from it, or, again, three people could leave the ship
without carrying more than was necessary for their require-
ments. It is obvious that with such a system each unit of
three must have its own tent, its own sleeping-bag, cooker, and
so on ; and herein lies a disadvantage, as economy of material
and weight can be better carried out with a large unit than
with a small one. It has also to be remembered that the risk
of accident is increased in a small party by the diminishing of
its capacity for mutual assistance. But with our small crew it
was clearly advisable that we should be able to break up into
small numbers, and in the course of events we frequently did
so. It will be understood, therefore, why each article which
I am about to describe was designed to satisfy the require-
ments of three men, and this fact should be remembered in
comparing any weights I may quote with those carried by
former expeditions.

The object of a tent is to provide shelter from the wind and
drifting snow. Those we used were bell-shaped. Some were
made of the lightest green Willesden canvas, and others of
thin gaberdine ; we rather preferred the former, as they let
in more light, and the green tint was especially grateful to
the eye.

Each tent was spread on five bamboo poles ; the poles
were seven feet in length, and united at the top, and when
spread the tent was about five feet six inches in height and
about six feet in diameter on the floor. It was kept more or
less tight down on the poles by digging out and piling blocks
of snow on its vallance, or skirting edge — a device which also
effectually prevented the wind and snowdrift from getting in
beneath it. The entrance was a hole about two and a half
feet in diameter, and the funnel-shaped door was sewn around
its edge, so fitted that the material of which it was composed
could be gathered up into a bunch and tied from the inside.
This bunch once tied up, the entrance was practically

1902] THE TENT 317

drift-proof. There was one other hole in the tent close to the
top which was named the ventilator, but would have been
more correctly called the chimney, as it was rarely opened
except to allow the steam of the cooking to pass away, instead
of being condensed and frozen on the sides of the tent. This
orifice was closed in a similar manner to the entrance.

On the floor inside the tent was spread a stout square 01
waterproof canvas which prevented the sleeping-bag or the
occupants from coming into immediate contact with the snow
surface. This floorcloth spread on bamboos likewise made an
excellent sail, but could be used in this capacity only when
the wind was abaft the beam.

Such a tent, with poles and floorcloth complete, weighed
about 30 lbs., and I do not think it would be safe to use a
tent of less weight in the Antarctic Regions owing to the heavy
strains which are brought on it by the frequent gales. In this
respect our tents deserve a high meed of praise. When we
first travelled with them in windy weather, and in their shelter
were forced to listen to the thunderous flapping of the canvas
as gust after gust swept across the plain, we were not a little
alarmed for their safety and our own ; it seemed impossible
that a thin shred of canvas could withstand attacks of such
violence. We went so far as to fit extra guys on the principle
of what is known to the sailor as a euphroe, to assist in
preserving the stability of the erection, and when it was
possible we built snow walls as a further protection against the
extreme force of the wind. But with greater experience we
gained more confidence in our tents, till finally we realised
that if they were properly secured with snow it would take
little less than a hurricane to uproot them. Before the second
year, the constant flapping had worn the canvas very thin and
threadbare, and as far as appearances went in the second
season they presented the most dilapidated aspect from the
numerous patches of various colours which we had been forced
to insert in the weak places. It was when in this condition
they still offered a bold front to the wind, and saved us from
the ngours of many a storm, that we realised their excellent

3i8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

design and complete suitability for Antarctic purposes. A
tent made to contain more persons would naturally economise
material and save weight, but I have already explained why
we chose ours of such small dimensions. Silk is a possible
substitute for the heavier material we employed, but, strong as
it is, I doubt whether it would have equal wearing quaUties,
and should it fail in this respect one might pay dearly for the
saving in weight.

Experience teaches that the comfort of a tent depends
largely on banishing loose snow and snowdrift. People learn
to take the most extraordinary precautions in brushing their
clothes and their boots before entering, and in having the
floorcloth well swept within — precautions which are a great aid
in keeping the equipment free from ice, and thus decreasing
the weights carried as well as the discomforts of the journey.
But this care is largely a question of personality ; and just as
in a house it is generally some particular person who deposits
mud on the carpets, so in a tent it is generally some particular
person who seems incurably desirous of adding to the snow
within. The qualities of a sledging companion, however, are
compounded of too many elements for him to be condemned
on such a trait alone, and in that small community of three,
where nothing can be hidden, and good and bad must alike
be judged, it is not improbable that this very carelessness may
serve to make the delinquent the more beloved.

Though it may not appear so on the surface, the sleeping-
bag is really a more important article of equipment than the
tent. In the bitter blast of an Antarctic storm it would be
possible to exist without a tent, but it is doubtful if one could
remain alive without the shelter of 'the bag,' or some
additional clothing which corresponded to it. All our fur
clothing had been purchased in Norway ; we had some suits
and mits made of wolf-skin, but the greater proportion of the
furs were of reindeer-skin. The pelt of the reindeer does not
possess a fur in the sense which might be understood by ladies
who are accustomed to dress themselves in the soft expensive
productions of a London furrier ; the reindeer possesses only

1902] THE SLEEPING-BAG 319

coarse hair, but the haii is closer and thicker than on any
other animal, and therefore, for reasons which are rather too
technical to be given here, the skin is better suited for the
polar traveller than any other. We had never contemplated
dressing in furs for our journeys, but the many troubles to
which sleeping-bags give rise had induced us to consider the
possibility of replacing them by fur suits which would be
adopted for night wear only. Our autumn journeys had very
soon shown us the error of our ways. The sleeping-suits soon
got into such a hard, stiff state that it was almost impossible to
get into them, and, once in, one was practically incapable of
motion ; in fact, we thought the discomfort of a night where
three persons thus clad were striving for rest in a small tent
would be difficult to equal.

When the winter set in, therefore, our men were soon busy
converting the reindeer suits into sleeping-bags ; and as besides
the suits we had a quantity of unsewn skins, there was plenty
of material for the change.

As can be imagined, the actual work of turning out the
bags, after a suitable design had been fixed upon, gave little
trouble to men who were accustomed to the use of sail needles;
but this fact serves to indicate a point which I hope to make
abundantly clear — namely, that there is no class of men so
eminently adapted by training to cope with the troubles and
trials of sledging life as sailors.

In this manner a few single sleeping-bags were made, but
the greater number were designed as 'three-man bags,' so that
all the occupants of a tent could sleep in the same bed. The
single bag had certain advantages : in particular, when the
temperature rose it was pleasant to have shelter which was all
one's own, and for officers the single bag served as a receptacle
in which they could keep their diaries and note-books ; but
from a point of view of weight the advantage lay all on the
side of the ' three-man bag,' a consideration so important that
eventually everyone used these bags on the longer journeys.

The ' three-man bag ' was made with the fur inside and with
an overlap at the head and at the sides, in addition to a large

320 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

flap which could be drawn up over the occupants when they
had settled themselves within. This flap completely covered
the entrance, and could be secured to the top and sides with
beckets and toggles.

In the springtime these toggles were all rigidly secured, and
every eff"ort was made to stop up the gaps which might be left
between the flap and the bag ; one felt and found that it was
impossible to be too tightly sealed up, and many a pipe
smoked under these conditions showed that the icy draughts
from without could not be wholly banished. The warmest
position in the bag was naturally the middle, but it was not
always preferred. As an offset for his increased comfort it was
the duty of the centre occupant to toggle up the bag — a task
which, with bare cold fingers, was by no means pleasant, and
generally occupied a considerable time.

Our three-man sleeping-bags weighed a little over 40 lbs.
on starting from the ship ; on their return from the spring
iourneys they were often found to be more than twice that
weight from the accumulation of ice which they carried.

It would be possible to make such bags lighter by using
the skins of younger animals ; and here, again, it is of im-
portance that great care should be taken in choosing the skins
intended for use in an expedition. In our case, the haste of
our preparations prevented sufficient care being taken, and in
consequence we found a good number of our skins unsatis-
factory. Nearly all had come from older animals, on which,
whilst the fur is heavier, it is not necessarily warmer. To be
stowed on the sledge each day the sleeping-bag had to be
doubled over, rolled up, and secured with rope — no easy job
when it was stiff and hard and the weather was cold. As may
be imagined, also, when snow was drifting in the air very great
caution was needed to prevent it from getting inside the bag.

The most difficult matter to arrange on a sledge-journey,
and the matter on which there is likely to be the greatest
difference of opinion and the most controversy, is the food.

The issue is clear enough : one desires to provide a man
each day with just sufificient food to keep up his strength, and

1902] SLEDGING-FOOD 321

not an ounce beyond. It is certainly suggestive of a normally
overfed condition in civilised mankind that when it is reduced
to this allowance it is conscious of much inconvenience from
the pangs of hunger. The great difficulty for the sledge
organiser is to arrive at this happy mean, more especially as it
can be regulated by no food allowance given in other parts of
the world which enjoy a less rigorous climate. The sledge-
traveller seems to need not only a special allowance, but also a
specially proportioned allowance. If one really goes into this
matter with some thoroughness, as I had the leisure to do, one
is involved in a bewildering array of facts and figures which it
would be hopeless to attempt to display with clearness to the
reader; but there are a few facts which may be quoted with
advantage, not only on the chance of their being of interest,
but because they show the exceptional requirements of the
sledge-traveller. And it must be remembered that, apart from
all theoretical conceptions in fixing the ultimate allowance for
our travellers, I had the benefit of a great deal of practical
experience, and can therefore speak with some knowledge of
the subject.

The following is a physiological estimate of the pro-
portionate energy expended by an average man in a day who
does eight hours of hard mechanical labour :

Heart action and respiration expend . 62,100 kilogramme metres
Bodily heat produced expends . . 620,000 ,, ,,

Mechanical work for eight hours . 125,000 ,, ,,

Total 807,100 ,, ,,

Assuming these figures to be even approximately correct,
the absurd disproportion of the energy expended on work is
noticeable, and hence man cannot be treated like a machine
and fed in proportion to the amount of work he does. It has
a very practical bearing on our subject, since it has been
remarked by even experienced sledge-travellers that if a party
are forced to remain m their tents for a day they ought to go
on half-food allowance, and I have seen some of our own
officers rather chagrined to find that appetites remained almost

VOL. I. Y

322 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

as keen during a period of forced inaction as when a long day's
work was being performed.

The above, therefore, shows that food cannot be materially
reduced whilst parties remain in camp, and that the sooner
they are on the march again the better it is for the distance
they will eventually be able to travel. The figures which I
have quoted also tend to show why it is that a man requires
more food in a polar climate than in a temperate one, for it is
evident that the expenditure on bodily heat will be larger.

During our second year in the South I very carefully
calculated the food which was provided for my own party, but
I allowed other officers to modify this allowance according to
their own ideas. I then calculated the result of my own and
Barne's ideas to rank in the following table. It is now pretty
generally known that our ordinary food can be placed under
three headings — the proteids, or nitrogenous food, such as is
mainly supplied by meats ; the fats ; and the carbohydrates,
or farinaceous foods. It is known also that man ordinarily
assimilates a given proportion of these various natures of food.
I do not vouch for the exact accuracy of this table, more
especially as I find authorities differ much as to actual require-
ments in this respect ; the table purports to give the number
of ounces of water-free food required under the different
headings, and I have neglected salts.

Amount required for Man
in full Work according
to different Authorities

Prisoner
on Hard
Labour

Army
on War

Footing

My own
Allow-
ance

8-6

4-4
iS-6

Same's
Allow-
ance

7-9

42

17-0

Proteid

Fats .
Carbohydrates

4-5

30

14-2

4-8
4-1

12-4

4-4

2-0

.7-6
24-0

4-0

1-5

19-0

4-8
i-o

i8-8

Total .

217

21-3

24-5

24-6

28-6

29-1

In my first year of sledging work I went south with something
considerably under the allowance given above, when my party
suffered much from hunger and grew decidedly weaker ; in the
second year, with the allowance shown, our strength was fairly

1902]

CALCULATION OF ALLOWANCES

323

well maintained, but there was still no doubt about our hunger.
There can be little question, therefore, that polar sledging
ranks an easy first as a hunger-producing employment, and
inferentially from that fact one can draw some conclusion as to
the arduous nature of the work.

But from the foregoing I do not wish it to be thought that
we were able to maintain our daily life on an allowance of
twenty-nine ounces of food per man. This figure represents
the ivater-free weight. Whereas absolute freedom from water
can only be calculated, it is never achieved ; and herein lies
one of the greatest difficulties that faces the sledge-traveller,
since it is obvious that the water is a dead and useless addition
to his weights. Some idea of the difficulty can be gathered
from the statement that ordinary cooked meat contains no less
than 54 per cent, of moisture. Hence, to the sledger, to reduce
the water in his food is of as much importance as to curb his
appetite. It is therefore of interest to quote the actual nature
and weight of food carried on the occasions which I have taken
for examples.

Ounces per Day per Man

Self

Barne

Biscuit .
Oatmeal
Pemmican
Red Ration
Plasmon
Pea Flour
Cheese .
Chocolate
Cocoa .
Sugar

120

1-5
7-6
i-i

2-0

1-5

2-0
I'l
07

3-8

14-5
1-5
7-6
II

1-5
07

1-5
i-i
07

3-8

33-3

34-0

One or two articles in this list need explanation. Pemmican
was, I believe, the name given in the Hudson Bay Territory to
a compound of dry buffalo meat and lard. It was transferred
to the dried beef and lard carried by the Northern sledgers,

324 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

and in that sense it is still retained. The best of our pemmican
came from Messrs. Beauvais, of Copenhagen, and contained
50 per cent, of lard and, what was not so pleasing, 20 per cent,
of moisture ; later on we received from the ' Morning ' some
good pemmican made by the Bovril Company. The red ration
was a nondescript compound of bacon and pea-flour. I am
not very sure as to its food value, and it was retained because
it was starchy enough to thicken our nightly soup and make it
a mixture which, as the sailors said, ' stuck to your ribs.'

The remaining articles need no comment, but I should not
forget to add that the following were also carried, though for
purposes of comparison I have omitted them from the first list.
Each tent was allowed per week :

075 lb. of tea.
0*5 lb. of onion powder.
0*25 lb. of pepper.
0-4 lb. of salt.

The totals compared with the figures given before show the
amount of water which was unavoidably present, and without
going into details I can assure the reader that when one obtains
over twenty-nine ounces of food value out of thirty-four ounces
of weight carried, one can congratulate oneself on having one's
food in an exceedingly concentrated form.

Including the smaller matters which I have mentioned, this
total would be brought up to thirty-five and a half ounces as
the daily allowance per man. It is interesting to compare this
with the allowance given in Northern expeditions. Greeley
allowed thirty-six ounces ; McClintock, forty-two ounces ;
Nares, forty ounces ; whereas Parry, in the early days, allowed
only twenty-two ounces. The journeys of the latter were not
of great length, but one can imagine how famished his party
must have been.

The trouble taken in apportioning the different natures of
food has an extremely practical bearing. The object aimed at
is that, whilst the traveller develops a craving for food, it should
not be for any particular form of food. I have heard it said
by members of the older expeditions, 'The thing we craved

1902 PACKING 325

for was sugar,' or 'The thing we craved for was fat,' and with-
out doubt this argues that the party would have been better
provided had they carried a greater proportion of these articles
and less of something else.

In this connection I may point out that Barne's allowance
contained more biscuit than mine, and I am not sure that he
was not right, as our biscuit was certainly on the short side,
and we had a distinct craving for more. On the whole, how-
ever, our parties went well in this respect. Our people on
getting back to the ship wanted food and plenty of it, but did
not especially demand it in any particular form.

From the above list it will be seen that our variety of food
was not a very large one. Nansen seems to have been of
opinion that variety was of great importance, but in this I
cannot agree. During our long absences our food was pretty
much the same day after day, and though we sighed for greater
quantity we were never particularly desirous of changing the
quality. The great drawback to a large variety is the compli-
cation which is introduced into the packing arrangements ;
that these should be as simple as possible with a party of men
is of the greatest importance. Our biscuit was packed on the
sledges in boxes or in canvas tanks specially made on board
for the purpose, but although the boxes were of the lightest
Vejiesta packing material, the additional weight involved by
either tank or box was considerable. The packing of biscuit
is especially difficult, because if packed loosely it will grind
itself into fine powder with the movement of the sledge, so
that probably much will be lost.

All the remaining provisions were carefully weighed out
into amounts which constituted the allowance for three men
for one week ; this amount was placed in a small light bag,
and then all the small bags were placed in a canvas tank on
the sledge.

In addition to this, each tent party of three men possessed
a ready-use bag containing all the small bags allowed for the
week. It will be seen that this was an extremely simple
arrangement ; all the trouble and care had been taken on

326 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

board the ship, and when once away the arrangements went
like clockwork. Each member of the group of three living
together in a tent would take it in turn to be cook for the
week. On the stated day he would go to the provision tank
and take out his allowance of small bags ; these he would
place in the ready-use bag, which was always kept handy on
the sledge. When camping-time came and the tent was up,
the cook would get inside, with his provision bag and cooking-
apparatus, and with everything under his hand he was able to
prepare supper in the shortest possible space of time. Of
course the cook was responsible for the weekly allowance
lasting out its proper time ; if it ran short before, the inmates
of the tent had to go hungry, and this made the cook un-
popular.

I have said there was little variety in our provisions, but a
good cook had some chance of showing his abiUties. Even
in such a fncnage he could vary the ingredients of his hoosh
each night, provided he did not outrun the constable, and a
very wily cook would save a bit here and there during his
term of office so as to end it up with one really thick ' stick
to the ribs ' hoosh, which kept his memory green for several
days.

The weekly allowance of food for a tent I called a pro-
vision unit, and I find I had to allow at least 6 lbs. for the
packing of each unit.

The habit of heating his food is about the only one
possessed by the sledge-traveller which can be said to go beyond
the bare necessity of life. Theoretically I believe the food would
be as nourishing and sustaining were it swallowed cold ; it would
only lose its immediate stimulating effect. Hence to some
extent fuel is a luxury, but even from this point of view not
entirely, for it would always be necessary to carry some fuel
and some vessel \n order to obtain water for drinking. As
regards the heating of food, I can only say that I should
prefer to be absent from a party who had decided to forego
it. The prospect of a cold supper after a long and tiring
march through the snow, with the thermometer below zero,

I902J COOKING-APPARATUS 327

would hold out no allurements, and indeed, from my small
experience of a shortage of fuel under these conditions, I
believe that few, if any, sledge-travellers could continue
long without hot food.

So, at any rate for me, the sledge cooker is a matter of
great importance, and it is here, if anywhere, that an immense
advance has been made of late years in the sledging equip-
ment. The cooking-apparatus we adopted was Nansen's,
who, I consider, in devising this and adapting to it a modern
form of heating-lamp, consuming paraffin in a vaporised state,
made his greatest contribution to the sledge-traveller's require-
ments.

The principal requirement of a good cooking- apparatus is
that it should allow a minimum wastage of heat, and though it
is difficult to arrive at an exact figure, it is probably stated with
some reason that the Nansen cooker expends usefully nearly
90 per cent, of the heat supplied by the lamp beneath it. The
design of the apparatus provides that the heated gases circu-
late about the central cooking-pot, and after passing up inside
the annular container, which we termed the outer cooker^ descend
again on the outside and thus give up most of their
heat before reaching the open air. The greater part of the
apparatus is constructed of aluminium, and the whole is made
as thin as is compatible with the necessary strength in order to
save weight.

I have already mentioned how at camping time the tent
would be erected and the cook would retire inside with his
provision bag and lamp ; whilst he was lighting the latter one
of the other members would fill the inner and outer cookers
with snow and pass them into the tent, so that a very few
minutes after the tent was up the lamp could be heard giving
forth its pleasant music, and one knew that its heat was already
acting on the frozen snow within the cookers.

Without wishing to take the reader into abstruse problems,
I must here mention one of the physical properties of ice,
which has a very practical bearing on the sledge -traveller. It
may possibly be overlooked that it requires nearly as much

328 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

heat to turn ice into water as it does to raise the resultant
water to boiling-point. In other words, if the snow that is put
into the cookers is at a temperature of - 36°, it will take just
as much heat to turn it into water as it does subsequently to
raise the water to boiling-point.

The practical bearing is obvious : it means that the sledge-
traveller requires nearly double the amount of fuel for cooking
his meals that would be necessary if he could fill his cookers
with water. Here again, therefore, he is handicapped in his
struggle for existence.

The cook, having started his lamp under the cooker, pro-
ceeded to prepare the ingredients of the hoosh, by which term
the hot, thick soup that constituted the sledging meal was
generally known. Whilst he ladled out a spoonful from one
small bag and two from another, and added a little pepper and
a little salt, he kept a watchful eye for the first spurt of steam
which should signify that the water was on the boil. Directly
this appeared, off came the covers and in went the assortment
of food ; in a very few minutes there was a bubbling and
spluttering, and the tent was filled with the savoury odour of
the coming meal. Not a moment was lost ; with the steady
hand of the expert handling a priceless possession, the steaming
contents of the cooking-pot were soon being poured into the
several pannikins. Then came the cleaning of the pot by the
cook, whose perquisite this was; all that would not pour out
in a fluid state was rapidly scraped out with a spoon and trans-
ferred to the cook's mouth. Without again employing the
word 'cleaning,' I may say I have known worse ways of
emptying a pot. In the meanwhile the snow in the outer
cooker had melted, and so the water w^as all ready for trans-
ference to the inner vessel for the final brew of cocoa. As
soon as this was on the boil the lamp was extinguished.

The excellence of this cooking-apparatus can only be
gleaned from a citation of figures. With it, boiling water
could be made from snow in twelve minutes ; a simple one-
course meal could be prepared in less than twenty minutes ;
and a two-course meal — that is, a hoosh with hot cocoa to

I902] THE PRIMUS LAMP 329

follow — could be provided with a lapse of less than half an
hour between the time the lamp was lighted and its extinc-
tion. Except for further economy of fuel, a more rapid
apparatus would have given no advantage, for, as it was, the
supper was generally ready before all the outside camp work,
such as securing the tent and sledges, &c., could be fully
accomplished.

The immense advantage which we possessed in this respect
can be gauged when it is recalled that McClintock speaks of
the inevitable wait of two hours which his parties had to
endure, after a long day's march, before they could hope to get
warmed food ; or, again, when it is stated that the records of
the Arctic sledge journeys of 1875 show that the cook was
always called two hours before the remainder of the party.
With us, on more than one occasion, a very rapidly prepared
brew of tea has saved serious trouble from freezing, and this
alone made possible those exceptional efforts of marching in
which we occasionally indulged.

In our rapid cooking the lamp was, of course, an even
greater factor than the cooker ; after some consideration we
had adopted the Primus lamp which Nansen had found so
useful. When in good working order nothing could exceed
the efficiency of this lamp. The oil, which is pressed up into
the upper tubes, is vaporised by the heat, and the vapour,
emerging through a small pinhole, burns with a flame of
intense heat, and effects the most complete combustion of the
oil. In the rapidity and completeness of the combustion lies
its great advantage. It has serious disadvantages : it is com-
plicated and difficult to repair; it is likely to get out of order
unless both the lamp and the oil used in it are kept absolutely
free from dirt and grit ; and when out of order it is quite
useless. Moreover, the vaporisation has to be started by out-
side artificial means, the correct method being to fill a small
outside cup with spirit. From these various defects we had at
first much trouble, more especially as the sailor is inclined to
be rather heavy-handed and careless with delicate mechanism.
Later on, however, the men realised how much depended on

330 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY [Sept.

keeping the lamps in good working order, and in consequence
became very expert in handling them. Our confidence in them
grew as we came to understand them better, and in spite of
their defects we ultimately placed such reliance on them that
we never thought of taking an alternative lamp. On two
occasions, in fact, my party were away on very extended
journeys with nothing to fall back on had our lamp failed.

As may have been gathered, the cooking and eating utensils
of our sledge parties were not numerous. Besides the cooker
and lamp, a folding pannikin of aluminium was provided for
each man, one-half of which could be used for his hoosh2Ci\di the
other for his cocoa. In addition each person had a dessert-spoon.
Pannikins and spoons could be conveniently stowed inside
the cooker for transport, and the latter then added 15 lbs. to
the load, beyond which an extra weight of 2^ to 3 lbs. had to
be allowed for the Primus lamp.

The oil was carried in small rectangular tins, which fitted
close to one another on a light platform on the sledge. Some
of these tins had been made in England, but we had consider-
ably to increase our supply by others made on board the ship.
Each tin had a small cork bung, which was a decided weakness ;
paraffin creeps in the most annoying manner, and a good deal
of oil was wasted in this way, especially when the sledges were
travelling over rough ground and were shaken or, as frequently
happened, capsized. It was impossible to make these bungs
quite tight, however closely they were jammed down, so that in
spite of a trifling extra weight a much better fitting would have
been a metallic screwed bung. To find on opening a fresh tin
of oil that it was only three-parts full was very distressing, and
of course meant that the cooker had to be used with still
greater care.

A full tin of oil weighed 10 lbs. and contained exactly a
gallon, and this quantity, as a general rule, was the allowance
for ten days for three persons. With care this was amply
sufficient, and on the southern journey when our stock was
somewhat short a gallon was made to last fourteen and even
sixteen days, but this meant very short commons.

I902] WEIGHTS CARRIED BY SLEDGE PARTIES 331

The incidental weights of a sledge party were numerous,
and depended greatly on the direction in which the party were
going and on the nature of their work. Those who journeyed
to the mountainous regions of the west were forced to go most
fully equipped in this respect, and in planning a sledge journey
in that direction it was especially maddening to see how the
weights of indispensable articles mounted up, and ever cut
away from the margin which remained for food.

The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under
two headings : the permanent, which will not diminish through-
out the trip, and the consumable, including food, oil, &c. The
following is a list of permanent weights carried on my own
journey to the west ; it will give some idea of the variety of
articles which were taken exclusive of provisions ; the party
numbered six : —

lbs.
2 Sledges with fittings complete 130
Trace ..... 5
2 Cookers, pannikins, & spoons 30
2 Primus lamps, filled . .10
2 Tents complete . . .60
2 Spades .... 9

2 Sleeping-bags with night-gear 100
Sleeping-jackets, crampons,

spare finneskoes . . 50
Medical bag ... 6

3 Ice-axes .... 8

Although our sledges weighed little over 40 lbs. each, by
the time they had been fitted with tanks for the provisions,
platforms for the oil, boxes for the instruments and for the
Primus lamps, and straps for other articles, it will be seen by
how much their weight had risen.

Some of the other items may need a word or two of explana-
tion. The spades were of course needed for digging up the
snow to secure the tents. The night-gear consisted of warm
foot-wear for the night, and a small bag containing one or two
spare pairs of socks, a spare pair of mits, possibly a small
amount of tobacco, and some extra grass for filling fur boots.

lbs.

Bamboos and marks .

"•S

Instruments and camera

50

Alpine rope

9

Repair and tool bags, sound-

ing - line, tape, sledge

brakes ....

IS

Ski boots for party

15

Ski for party
Total

60

568-5

332 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

This bag was always kept in the sleeping-bag, and was used
by the owner as a pillow as well as a receptacle for diaries and
the few oddments that constitute private property on such an
occasion.

The heavy labour of marching made it possible to under-
take it in comparatively light clothing ; but on coming to camp
it was generally necessary to put on something extra. In this
garment also we slept, wherefore it figures as the sleeping-
jacket. It was usually made from a woollen pyjama jacket,
and lined with some extra woollen material. Of course all
personal property was strictly limited by a given weight, and if
a man chose to forego a pair of socks and take out the weight
in tobacco, he was at liberty to do so. I remember gazing at
my spare mits and wishing to heaven I'd brought tobacco
instead.

The crampons were a necessity for travelling over smooth
ice or very hard wind-blown snow. For the second year we
invented and made a particular pattern of our own, which
suited us admirably, and which I shall describe in due course.

Our medical bag contained bandages, sticking-plaster, an
emulsion for sprains, a few phials containing medicines in the
tabloid form, and a tube of hazeline cream. The general
health of our sledge-travellers was so good that I believe, with
the exception of two, the medicine phials were never required ;
the two exceptions contained zinc sulphate and cocaine, the
first to cure and the second to deaden the pain of snow-
blindness. As this disease was a constant companion, these
tabloids were very frequently needed.

The ice-axes mentioned above were of the ordinary Alpine
type; they came in very handy for various work on the
glaciers, but they were seldom absolutely necessary.

The title • bamboos and marks ' includes sticks and flags
taken to measure the movement of the ice of the glaciers and
to mark the positions at which we left our depots of provisions.

The contents of our instrument-box were an extraordinarily
heavy item, and yet there was nothing which we could have
spared. They consisted of a small three-inch theodolite in its

1902] INSTRUMENTS AND IMPLEMENTS 333

case, for taking observations of the sun and bearings, two small
aneroids, a compass, two thermometers, a hypsometer, a small
book containing logarithmic tables, and a camera, with plates.
On this journey we took the half-plate camera with its slide-
box, and although one almost groaned on seeing the weight it
added, there can be little source of regret when one contem-
plates the pictures which Mr. Skelton managed to produce with
its assistance.

Alpine rope was a thing one scarcely liked to be without
when travelling in a country where crevasses abounded ; the
thought of a companion possibly hung up in one of these and
his fellow men unable to reach him for lack of rope, was too
grim to be thrust aside. The repair-bag was an important
item ; it contained the housewife, with needles, thread, &c., to
repair our garments, a few strips of material to patch the tent,
with sail needles and a palm, some hide thongs, some tough
pieces of reindeer-skin for boots, and some spun yarn for
lashings. A tool-bag was also very necessary, and contained
pliers, files, a bradawl, a gimlet, &c,, with some screws, nails,
and binding wire for the repair of the sledges. The sounding-
line and lead were provided for sounding and taking tempera-
tures in crevasses, but it was rarely possible to use them. The
tape was also for glacier measurements, whilst the sledge
brakes were introduced in hopes of saving the sledges on the
down grade over slippery ice. They were of hemp, and proved
of very little use.

We took ski boots on this journey in hopes of being able
to use ski, and thinking they might be of service on the
glacier ; we used neither the ski nor the boots, and ' depoted '
the latter at a very early stage in the journey. The ski we took
on, thinking always they might be required, but never finding
that they were so.

And here I should like to explain my attitude towards ski,
more especially as since Nansen's journeys it has been very
generally thought that they have revolutionised the methods of
polar travel. I have mentioned in former chapters how
delighted we were with our ski practice, and I have also called

334 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

attention to an incident where some officers were able to push
on with a journey because they possessed ski. The latter is
really an extraordinary exception, and it is still more extra-
ordinary that it should have been our first experience of
Antarctic travelling. It naturally biassed us all in favour of ski,
so that although a few remained sceptical, the majority thought
them an unmixed blessing. Bit by bit, however, the inevitable
truth came to light : it was found that in spite of all appear-
ance to the contrary, a party on foot invariably beat a party on
ski, even if the former were sinking ankle-deep at each step ;
while, to add to this, when the surface was hard, ski could not
be used, and had to be carried as an extra weight and a great
encumbrance on the sledges. The ski party still made a stand
in their favour by stating that they saved labour, but even this
could not be admitted when the facts were thoroughly known.
It stands true to some extent for a party out of condition,
but the fact we gradually came to appreciate was that
after a week's marching our legs got so hard that it troubled us
little to plod on throughout the day whether the snow was soft
or hard.

It will be seen, therefore, that our experience has led me to
believe that for sledge work in the Antarctic Regions there is
nothing to equal the honest and customary use of one's own
legs. Progress may be slow and dull, but it is steady and sure.
On my western journey, having no knowledge of the inland
surface, I took ski. They remained on the sledge from start
to finish. As we were contemplating them just before our
return to the ship, one of my companions remarked, ' They've
had a nice cheap ride,' and that about summed up the
situation.

In the list of permanent weights which I have taken as an
example of a sledge-load for six men, the reader will see that
the various articles total 568 lbs. ; roughly speaking a man can
drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but we rarely loaded our sledge
parties much above 200 lbs. ; this for six men would give a
total carrying capacity of 1,200 lbs and hence about 630 lbs.
which could be devoted to provisions. Speaking again very

I902] CLOTHING 335

roughly, this amounts to about six weeks' provisions for the
party, so that this party, dragging at the start 200 lbs. per man,
can go away for forty-two days and throughout that time remain
entirely self-supporting. If the party is increased to twelve
men, for reasons which I need not detail, the absence can be
increased to seven weeks, or about fifty days. But neither of
these terms is long enough to suit the ambitious sledge-
traveller, so that he is forced to organise means by which he
can prolong his journey. This can be done in two ways : he
may go out earlier in the season and lay out a depot at a con-
siderable distance towards his goal, or he may arrange to
receive assistance from a supporting party, which on a pre-
arranged plan accompanies him for a certain distance on his
road and helps his advance party to drag a heavier load than
it is able to accomplish alone.

Both these plans were adopted on our longer journeys, and
thus some of us were able to be absent from the ship for long
periods and to travel long distances.

I have endeavoured to describe how a sledge party is
housed and fed ; it remains to conclude this chapter by giving
some idea of how it is clothed, and this can be done very
briefly. The sledge-traveller takes little more clothing than
that in which he stands at starting ; in fact, I have already
mentioned the articles of which his spare wardrobe consists.
They do not include a change of clothing, so that he sleeps and
lives in the one costume until his return.

In our case officers and men were clothed in a similar
manner, save for such touches as the fancy of the individual
might suggest. Each wore a warm thick suit of underclothing,
one or two flannel shirts, a jersey, or sweater, a pair of pilot-cloth
breeches, and a pyjama jacket. A pilot-cloth coat or any stiff
garment about the upper part of the body was unpopular, and
personally I cut off the sleeves of my pyjama jacket so that it
was practically a very free-and-easy outer waistcoat. Some
wore woollen comforters, but others, like myself, found the
collar of the pyjama jacket sufficient covering for the neck.

Of great importance we found it to have many pockets, and

336 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

a large breast-pocket was very generally adopted. It was here
that in hard times by day one dried one's night socks, and by
night those which one had worn during the day. Besides this,
one's pockets contained a collection of miscellaneous articles :
a knife, a match-box, goggles, a whistle, and odds and ends
such as string, thongs, and so forth.

Braces were another matter on which there was difference
of opinion. Some thought them indispensable, but I, with
others, found that a leather belt served all needful purposes in
this respect.

But one of the most important parts of our sledging-
costume was the complete outer suit of thin gaberdine, a
material manufactured by Messrs. Burberry for use in many
climates. It purports to be water-tight, but of this we had
little chance of judging ; we required it only to keep out the
keen edge of the wind and the drifting snow, and for this it
was admirably adapted.

We found it very desirable that this suit should be very
easily put on or off. On fine days it was convenient to march
without it ; but when the wind sprang up or the sky looked
threatening it was wise to don it at once. But to construct a
suit which had this desirable quality and at the same time
was impervious to snowdrift was by no means easy. The
suit consisted of a blouse, breeches, and leggings, but whether
the leggings should be attached to the breeches, and how
exactly the neck, sleeves, and other parts of the blouse should
be fitted were matters of keen controversy, eventually decided
according to individual taste. It is impossible, therefore, to
give any very definite opinion as to the best form for these
garments ; subject to their being easy to put on and off, one
great thing is that they should fit as closely as possible about
the neck, wrists, and ankles, and that there should be no
admittance for snowdrift between the blouse and trousers.
It is almost equally important that there should be as few
creases as possible, especially about the legs, as the snow
which lodges in these is bound to be brought into the tent.

The parts of the body which need the most careful protec-

I902] PROTECTION OF HEAD, HANDS, & FEET 337

tion are the extremities, and here, again, everyone had his own
ideas and his own patent devices. To face the cold of the
early spring we had thick camel-wool helmets provided with
gaberdine covers, but many of us found these too heavy, and
when they became coated with ice they were particularly
unmanageble. A better plan was to use one or two ordinary
woollen Balaclava helmets under the gaberdine cover. Per-
sonally, I used one, provided with an extra thickness of
material to cover those most sensitive organs, the ears. I
have already described the wind-guard which most of us wore
to protect the face.

In summer, when the glare was very great, we wore broad-
rimmed felt hats, either over a Balaclava or fitted with a
special protection for the ears and back of the neck, which
could be lowered or tucked into the crown according to
circumstances. It is a great mistake to have too heavy a
head-covering ; the ice which inevitably forms on it in cold
weather is sufficient to make a light helmet comparatively
warm.

On our hands, when sledging, we wore either fur or felt
mits over long woollen half-mits which extended from the
elbows to the knuckles. These half-mits were excellent
things, as one could draw them forward to assist one in
handling the cold metal cooking-utensils or could curl one's
fingers back under their protection when the tips became
particularly cold. Personally I swore by our wolfskin fur mits.
We wore them with the fur outside, and I lined mine with
light wool and found that one pair lasted me throughout each
of my extended sledge journeys. The most convenient plan
was to have these mits slung round the neck, as one could
then withdraw one's hands at will without the prospect of
finding the mits gone when one wished to resume them. For
taking observations and for other trying tasks it was very con-
venient to have a pair of light woollen mits or gloves, but of
these there was a great scarcity on board.

Of all parts of the person of which it is necessary to have
care the feet are the most important, and for clothing the feet
VOL. I. z

338 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

in cold weather there can be nothing to excel the reindeer-fur
boot or fintiesko, which is made in Norway. It behoves the
traveller to be most careful in the selection of these articles, as,
though many are made for wear, many also are made for a
tourist market and will prove quite unsuitable for his purpose.
Here, again, a lack of time had prevented a sufficient care
being taken in selecting the large supply which we purchased,
and though we had a good number of excellent articles, others
were weak and unsatisfactory. The difference is most marked
— a good pair of finneskoes will stand many weeks of hard
wear on snow, whereas a poor pair will be gone in a few days ;
the importance of selecting good pairs for a sledge journey is
therefore obvious. Luckily we soon became fairly good judges,
and so never actually ran out of foot-wear on our journeys,
though we came very close to it.

The sole of the finnesko is made of the forehead skin or
the hard skin of the legs of the reindeer ; it is important that
it should have a twist in the natural growth of the hair, as this
gives a better foothold. The upper sides are made of softer
skin from the neck or legs ; all the joints are very carefully
sewn with gut, and the boot is worn with the fur outside.

To examine a pair it is necessary to turn them inside out,
and this is not easy to do until they are made damp. With
experience it is then possible to see the quality of the sewing
and the probable lasting power of the sole. The Laps make a
nest of grass inside these boots and place their foot in this nest
without further covering. There is an advantage in this in the
fact that the grass can be taken out and the frozen perspiration
shaken clear, but the custom probably springs from the absence
of wool. This grass is called sennegrces. We had provided
ourselves with a good quantity ; but we wore two pairs of socks
inside the finneskoes, and only used the grass to pad out the
toes and sides. Finneskoes are provided with a draw-string at
the top, but we found that the best means of securing them
was with a long strip of lamp-wick, which was wound about
the ankle and covered the joint between the legging and the
boot. Instances of seriously cold feet in finneskoes were

I902] THE HARNESS 339

extremely rare, and usually after an hour's marching one's feet
perspired freely in the coldest weather. One great advantage
is that there is absolutely no restraint to the circulation.

Before leaving the subject of dress one ought to mention
the goggles, which were worn almost as constantly as many of
the articles I have described. A few men preferred the
ordinary wire-gauze type with smoked glass, but a drawback
to these was their liability to become frosted over. The
alternatives were to have a piece of leather with a slit in place
of the glass, or to have goggles cut out from a slip of wood.
Personally I much preferred the latter, and in the end invari-
ably used them ; mine were very carefully shaped to fit over
the nose and eyes, had a considerable cross-shaped aperture,
and were blackened outside and in.

One other article of sledge furniture deserves notice — the
harness. Each man had a broad band of webbing passing
round his waist and supported by braces over the shoulders ;
the two ends of the band joined in an iron ring, to which a
rope was attached which could be secured to the sledge or the
trace. In the old days men were accustomed to pull from the
shoulder, and thus of necessity assumed a somewhat lop-sided
attitude ; with our arrangement, by adjusting the braces the
weight could be distributed very evenly over the upper part of
the body, and this I believe made the pulling easier and gave
greater freedom for breathing.

From the foregoing the reader will, I hope, have gathered
some general idea of the objects and methods of sledge-
travelling. He will see how varied is the assortment of articles
with which the traveller provides himself; he will understand
something of the rigid nature of the sledging routine and the
simplicity of the sledging life ; he will perceive how the sledge
party are housed, and fed, and clothed, and how their absence
is prolonged. Above all, he will realise how dependent is a
sledging expedition on the efficiency of its organisation and the
care of its preparation.

Z2

340 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

CHAPTER XI

TYPICAL SLEDGING EXPERIENCES

Use of Dogs for Sledging— A Discussion of their Merits — History of our
Dog Team — Discomforts of Sledge-travelling — Typical Experiences —
The Ordinary Routine - Result of a Blizzard — Benefit of Summer Tem-
peratures—Disadvantages of Summer — The Fascination of Sledging.

By mutual confidence and mutual aid

Great deeds are done and great discoveries made. — Anon.

'Tis a weary round to which we are bound
The same thing over and over again ;
Much toil and trouble. — Lindsay Gordon.

From the outline of our sledging arrangements which I have
given in the previous chapter, the reader will understand the
occupation of our time and thoughts throughout the later
months of the dark season. Yet this outline has been
necessarily of a fragmentary nature, and I am conscious
of having missed many points of importance. To one of
these, at least, I ought to refer, since the chapter has made
no mention of our four-footed friends, who were to play so
important and tragic a part in our longest journey.

The use of dogs for sledging is a subject about which there
has been much controversy. Broadly speaking, there are two
ways in which dogs may be used — they may be taken with the
idea of bringing them all back safe and sound, or they may be
treated as pawns in the game, from which the best value is to
be got regardless of their lives.

In the first case their value is indicated by a direct com-
parison of their pulling power and food requirement with that

1902] DOGS AND THEIR FOOD 341

of the man. McClintock, who had much experience in this
matter, has said : ' Two dogs require the same weight of food
as one man, and they will draw a man's full load for about one-
fourth a greater distance than the man would. If both man
and dogs are but lightly loaded, the dogs will almost double
the distance which the man could do.' To this may be added
that the dog requires no sleeping-bag, tent, or cooking-appa-
ratus, nor, indeed, any of those articles which figured so
largely as the permanent weights of a sledge party. Most
authorities agree that 100 lbs. is about the maximum load
for a dog, and few place its food for a long journey at less
than i^ lb. per diem, or something over half the weight con-
sumed by a man.

So far, then, it would appear that a dog is a more efficient
machine than a man ; but, on the other hand, it has to be
remembered that the dogs cannot travel without man, and they
have therefore, in addition to their own food, to carry the food
and impedimenta of their drivers. Moreover, the dog is fickle
and unstable : its best performance, which has sometimes
fallen little short of the marvellous, has been on short
journeys, over beaten tracks, and with a light load ; sus-
tained effort with a heavy load over a new track seems
always to have shown the dog in a much less favourable
light. Difificult as it is to ascertain the reason exactly, the
fact remains that no very long journey has ever been made
by a wholly detached dog- team in the Arctic Regions, from
which the animals have returned alive. The subject is com-
plicated, and I am aware of treating it somewhat summarily,
but I am inclined to state my belief that in the polar regions
properly organised parties of men will perform as extended
journeys as teams of dogs, provided always that it is intended
to preserve the lives of the dogs.

But if, on the other hand, it is decided to sacrifice the dogs
to the supreme object of the journey, the matter is placed on
a different footing, and the dog-team is invested with a capacity
for work which is beyond the emulation of a party of men.
To appreciate this is a matter of simple arithmetic. We can

342 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

suppose a party of three men starting on a journey dependent
on their own labours, and we can suppose the same party
starting with the assistance of twelve dogs which they intend
should feed on one another. In the latter case, although the
party start with heavier weights than in the former, the dogs
not only draw this heavier load but carry their own food on
their own legs. It is obvious, therefore, that the dog-assisted
party will have the radius of the simple man party plus the
distance added by the dogs' energy. This is not quoted as
a practical case, but merely to show the clear gain which the
dog offers.

This method of using dogs is one which can only be
adopted with reluctance. One cannot calmly contemplate
the murder of animals which possess such intelligence and
individuality, which have frequently such endearing qualities,
and which very possibly one has learnt to regard as friends and
companions. On the other hand, it may be pointed out with
good reason that to forego the great objects which may be
achieved by the sacrifice of dog-life is carrying sentiment to
undue length. It is a case, if ever there was one, where the
end justifies the means. There is no real reason why the life
of a dog should be considered more than that of a sheep, and
no one would pause to consider the cruelty of driving a
diminishing flock of sheep to supply the wants and aid the
movements of travellers in more temperate climates.

If one comes to look into this matter, one sees that the
real cruelty to a dog lies in over-working or under-feeding it,
and it is in avoiding this as far as possible that the sledge-
traveller most truly shows his humanity. The avoidance of
unnecessary pain should be the aim, and suddenly and pain-
lessly to end the life of an animal which has been well fed and
well cared for is not cruelty. Unfortunately, it is not always
possible to avoid pain, and it was this fact more than the
actual killing that weighed heavily on us when, as I shall
relate, we had gradually and completely to efface the patient
companions of our southern sledge journey.

My plan for utilising our dog-team was compounded of the

1902] OUR SAD EXPERIENCE 343

two methods which I have sketched above. We faced the
situation that the weaker animals must be sacrificed to
the exigencies of the work, though we hoped that a remnant
of the larger and stronger beasts would survive to enjoy again
a life of luxury and ease ; but, as events turned out, we saved
none : all were lost under the unavoidable pressure of cir-
cumstances.

Probably our experience was an exceptionally sad one in
this respect, but it left in each one of our small party an un-
conquerable aversion to the employment of dogs in this
ruthless fashion. We knew well that they had served their
end, that they had carried us much farther than we could
have got by our own exertions ; but we all felt that we would
never willingly face a repetition of such incidents, and when
in the following year I stepped forth in my own harness, one
of a party which was dependent on human labour alone, it
would not be easy adequately to convey the sense of relief
which I felt in the knowledge that there could be no re-
currence of the horrors of the previous season.

I have endeavoured to give a just view of the use of dogs
in polar enterprises. To say that they do not greatly increase
the radius of action is absurd ; to pretend that they can be
worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death is
equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be
justified by the gain, and I think that logically it may be ;
but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does
rob sledge-travelling of much of its glory. In my mind no
journey ever made with dogs can approach the height of that
fine conception which is realised when a party of men go
forth to face hardships, dangers, and difficulties with their
own unaided efforts, and by days and weeks of hard physical
labour succeed in solving some problem of the great unknown.
Surely in this case the conquest is more nobly and splendidly
won.

It must not be forgotten, however, that few expeditions
can command the numerical strength to perform extended
journeys with men alone. A large party of men is not only

344 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

a great responsibility, but a great expense ; the dog gives
little anxiety, requires no housing, and draws no wages.

There is one other point which must not be omitted in
considering the relative services of dogs and men. There are
places where men can go but dogs cannot. The greater part
of polar travelling has lain over flat sea-ice or comparatively
flat land-ice, and this is a condition suitable to the dog ; but
on steep slopes and over uneven country the dog is practically
useless. It will be seen that a great deal of our travelling
lay over uneven country. Everywhere but on the barrier
surface we had inequalities to contend with, and in rising to
the steep mountain ranges to the west we had to ascend rough
uneven glaciers and to traverse surfaces of smooth glassy ice,
where dogs would have been a hopeless encumbrance ; men,
and men alone, could have dragged our sledges over these
rugged tracts. As we were situated, therefore, the services
of dogs could only have been utilised to a limited extent, nor
is it at all improbable that a similar experience awaits future
Antarctic travellers.

For some time before the start of our sledging season
we had strained inventive talent in the hope of devising the
best form of harness for our dog-team, one which would give
them the best chance of utilising their strength ; but in this
respect a dog is a most uncanny animal to suit. Except after
an exhausting march he is never still : he will leap about and
turn and twist in a manner calculated to tangle the simplest
harness, and to this he adds an ineradicable habit of gnawing
at his trace.

The harness, as regards the dog itself, we kept a per-
manency. Each dog was measured for his suit, and then it
was sewn securely about him. It consisted of a broad breast-
band secured to a girth about the fore part of the body. The
trace could be secured on either side of this arrangement.
At first we tried a double trace to equalise the pull, using
some small steel rope, impervious to the animals' teeth. This
promised well, and, fitted with swivels, it was a really ingenious
contrivance ; but we found later that the wire, though very

1902] HISTORY OF OUR DOG TEAM 345

flexible, was liable to chafe, and when the small, sharp strands
stuck out at all angles it was not pleasant to handle. Finally
we had to revert to the single trace of rope, which was secured
to the harness with a hitch and to the main trace with a
toggle ; whilst half-way along it was a swivel, which helped to
counteract the constant restless twisting of the animal.

We also had many trials to find out how the dogs should
be placed with regard to the sledge, finally arranging a long
central trace, along which they were secured in pairs. Thus
arranged our dog-team trailed out to rather a long procession.
First came the leading dog, led by one of the party ; after
him, two by two, the remainder of the team, the ' wheelers '
being close back on the sledge. Even with this simple
arrangement the traces would sometimes be worked into a
bad tangle, which it was only possible to unravel with bare
fingers — a task that was not looked forward to with any
pleasure, especially in the early morning. In this respect
there is a curious habit in dogs, which appears to be some
survival of a remote wild age, and which most people will
doubtless have noticed : a dog rarely coils himself down to
sleep without turning round several times, as though arranging
some imaginary lair. However pleasing this habit may be
to watch on ordinary occasions, one does not contemplate
it with delight in a sledge dog, knowing that one will eventually
have to disentangle the twisted confusion that results.

It may be of interest perhaps to explain briefly how we
came to be possessed of a dog-team. In the early days of
preparation which preceded our departure from London the
subject of dogs very naturally arose, and it became evident
that if we were to obtain a team arrangements would have
to be made in good time. The German expedition, which
was to start simultaneously with our own, had already secured
a team in Eastern Siberia, where, it is reported, the dogs are
both larger and stronger than in the West. It was too late
for us to copy this example, but I shortly got into com-
munication with an agent, Mr. Wilton, who was then in
Archangel, and who undertook to fulfil our requirements. At

346 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

this time a Russian named Trontheim had been commissioned
to obtain between 300 and 400 dogs for an American ex-
pedition, then about to start for Franz-Josef Land. It was
Trontheim who in 1891 had secured the dogs carried on
Nansen's famous voyage, and, as he was in all respects fitted
for collecting the animals, our agent added our modest re-
quirement of twenty to the number of his commission, on
condition that we, through our agent, should be allowed first
pick of the crowd collected. The particulars of Trontheim's
wanderings are not in my knowledge, but it is certain that
he must have travelled over a great portion of the country
inhabited by the Ostiak and Samoyede tribes of Northern
Russia to fulfil his contract. On his return to Archangel
Mr. Wilton selected twenty dogs and three bitches for our
expedition, and duly brought them to London, where they
were housed in the Zoo until such time as we could make
arrangements for their transport to New Zealand and provide
for their care on the voyage. I really do not think I ever had
an opportunity of thoroughly examining the dogs until we
came to rest in our winter quarters, but then, of course, one
not only saw them, but rapidly grew to know their individual
characteristics.

Notwithstanding the care with which they had been brought
together, though the majority were fine, strong dogs, there was
a distinct tail to our team, and several young dogs which had
evidently never been in harness before. One of the most
noticeable points about the team was the difierence of breed.
There were three distinct types, besides many modifications
of these types. The first was a big, strong-limbed dog of
nondescript colour, with a very thick but comparatively short
coat; these animals formed the best pulling element in the
team. Next came a short-legged, thick-set dog, with a long,
shaggy coat, and black-and-white in colour ; it was one of
these who kept up the traditions of his race by pulling to the
last gasp. The third type was in form and colour so near to
the grey wolf that one felt confident that his blood relationship
was extremely close. These dogs were by far the most

1902] DISCOMFORTS OF SLEDGE-TRAVELLING 347

unaftractive in the pack ; timid, cunning, and uncertain in
temper, they possessed all the sneaking distrust of the wild
animal and none of the good humour and boisterous affection
which were so marked a characteristic of the rest. And all
this mixed team had come to us unnamed and unknown ; we
had not a scrap of their history, nor could we tell within a
thousand miles whence they came. But what mattered that ?
They had now good Anglo-Saxon names, and their value lay
in their future, and not in their past.

One fact only had been borne by word of mouth — the king
and ruler of our pack had held the same high office when he
had travelled amongst 400 of his kind. And well he might.
His new name of ' Nigger ' wholly failed to convey the grandeur
of his nature. In peace he was gentle and dignified, but in
war, as we knew to our cost, he was swift and terrible.

When we opened our spring campaign with the dogs in
1902, the original team had sadly diminished. One had been
lost with poor Vince in the disaster of March ; two had been
murdered under our very eyes, and two others had come to an
untimely end during the winter.

To what remained, for our southern journey, were added
the three ladies and poor 'Joe,' who had been the private
property of Mr. Bernacchi, bringing their number up to a total
of nineteen, of which all but one, who was dismissed at an
early period in the journey, left their bones on the great
southern plains. This in brief is the history of our dogs, but
of the circumstances in which they met their end I shall speak
at greater length.

A mere description, such as I have given, of the organisation
of sledge-travelling and the paraphernalia which accompanies
a sledge party can give no idea of the actual life of the sledge-
traveller or the difficulties and hardships which he has to face,
so that it is necessary to point out wherein the latter lie. The
worst time for sledging is the coldest time ; not so much on
account of the cold itself as on account of the effects produced
by the cold. The most troublesome of these is the absence
of evaporation. Very cold air will only contain the minutest

348 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

quantities of moisture, and consequently there is in it little or
no drying effect, while the human body is always giving off
moisture, much passing away in the breath, but much issuing
through the pores of the skin. It is not difficult to see what
will happen under such conditions, and how much the traveller
will be inconvenienced. Though the greater proportion of the
moisture will pass away with air artificially heated by the body
a small quantity will remain as ice on one's garments, and this
ice will gradually and surely increase until one is completely
enclosed in it. There is ice everywhere : one's garments are
covered with it ; one's helmet is encrusted with it ; one's boots
are full of it ; and all these things which on board the ship
were so caressingly soft to the touch will have become as hard
as boards. Worse still, this ice will be found plastered as
thickly on everything that makes for comfort at night : sleeping-
bag, night-jacket, and night foot-gear will have grown equally
hard and chill ; one's life seems to be spent in thawing things
out.

Some idea of these discomforts may be gathered from the
description of a day's sledging under severe conditions of
temperature. We will imagine ourselves of a party who have
been a week or more out, and first observe ourselves as we are
plodding along through the snow towards our evening camping
place. The exertion of the march has sent the blood coursing
freely through our veins, and each man inside his heavy clothing
has a grateful sense of warmth ; but the day has been a long
one, in the last half-hour the sledges have grown decidedly
heavier, and legs and back are already giving warning that the
camping hour ought to be at hand. Breath is now coming
gustily ; it has frozen thick under the wind-guards and hangs
in long icicles from the unshaven chins ; eyelashes are thickly
encrusted with it, and now and again a bared hand has to thaw
out a sealed eyelid and restore the sense of vision to its owner.

Half an hour ago the leader looked at his watch and
announced, ' Thirty-five minutes to camp ' ; by this time we
can gauge shrewdly the passage of time and the watch has not
been seen again until now, when it is followed by the caution,

1902] TYPICAL EXPERIENCES 349

' Three minutes more.' Heads go up ; it is time to look for
the camping spot. But we are now travelling over rough
sastnigi; we cannot camp on these with any hope of comfort.
Suddenly the owner of a keen eye says, ' There we are, sir ' ;
he has detected a smooth patch just large enough for our tents,
and we make for it. We march to the site and up goes the
leader's hand. The sledges stop dead ; traces and harness
fall with a clatter on the snow, and without a moment's delay
the heavily clad figures turn towards the sledges. There must
be no standing about in this weather ; we must be constantly
active until we can creep into the shelter of our thin tent.
Everyone is soon wrenching at the straps of the neatly packed
sledges and running busily to and fro with various articles of
the equipment. In each group of three, one man seizes the
tent-poles and after some struggling succeeds in planting them
firmly in the snow over the smoothest site he can find ; his
two companions advance with the tent, and whilst he holds
grimly to the poles they whisk it over his head and straighten
it till it hangs squarely on its support. One now pulls out and
arranges the skirting, whilst the other has seized the shovel and
is cutting out large slabs of snow as though his life depended
on it.

I may here add that this was not always an easy task.
Sometimes the snow was brittle and crystalline and difficult to
work ; at others there was very little of it, especially when we
camped on glaciers ; but the worst condition was when it was
excessively hard. It may seem almost incredible that we
occasionally found wind-blown snow so hard that, except in
the strongest hands, a solid sharp shovel made no impression
on it. To prise out pieces at such times was really expert
work, and it was lucky that we only came on this condition
after we had had some experience.

But to return to our tent. Whilst the others are delving
and securing the tent without, the cook has spread the floor-
cloth within, and is now seated on it with his Primus lamp and
provision bag. He handles the first with care, pours spirit
from a tiny flask into the outer cup, and laying in it a small

350 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

piece of wick proceeds to light it. His matches are produced
with great care from an inner pocket. Herein Hes great
danger, for on no account must moisture be allowed to con-
dense in that box ; the contents of many a matchbox have
been wasted by incaution. If he has been sufficiently careful,
however, the lamp-wick is soon sputtering and thin blue flame
creeps up about the burner of the lamp ; with bated breath he
waits for the psychological moment, and suddenly gives a
sharp stroke to the plunger of the lamp. If he has hit it off,
small shafts of blue flame shoot out beneath the caps, and in
a minute, as he works away at the pump, the top of the lamp
is surrounded by a hissing, roaring flame. If, however, he has
not hit it off", the yellow flame of free oil alone shoots up, and
all has to be done over again. Meanwhile the cooker has
been filled by those outside and handed in through the door.
Directly the lamp is lit the various vessels are placed on top of
it ; the lamp takes a deeper note as it gets to its work, and
those without breathe a sigh of relief as they realise that supper
is now really in sight.

The cook now gets ahead with the contents of the provision
bag and continues to suff"er in comparative silence, for indeed
all this time he has suffered ; he has had to work with bared
hands and to seize one by one all these chilled metal articles,
where a moment's delay will convey a tingling, burning shock
to the fingers. Of such work it may be truly said :

Ah me ! what perils do environ

The man who meddles with cold iron.

In our spring journeys it was impossible to avoid this trouble
with cold metal ; our fingers became to a certain extent callous,
but only when each finger-tip terminated in a large horny
blister. Except that they burnt and tingled, these blisters did
not give much trouble during a short journey, but were very
sore when they burst after one's return. On a long cold
journey one's fingers were liable to split and crack about the
nails, and this was both painful and troublesome.

As soon as the tent is well secured without, those who

1902] THE ORDINARY ROUTINE 351

have been at work on it demand admittance ; the door is un-
fastened and they come tumbhng in with a confused medley of
night-coats and foot-gear. All now squat round the hissing
cooker, and we gain what comfort we can from the heat that
escapes from it. The confined space within is now filled to
repletion, and elbows and knees have to be managed with
caution to avoid disaster to the cooker. By this time, in the
spring, the sun has sunk below the horizon, and the gloom of
the tent is lightened only by the flickering rays of a candle
placed in a collapsible lantern which hangs from a tent-pole.
So small is the space that an incautious movement often sends
this contrivance flying, and there is much groping and impre-
cation before light can be produced again on the scene.

Whilst the cook devotes his attention to the all-important
supper we others make shift to change our foot-gear ; in the
narrow, cramped space we tug and pull at sodden finneskoes
and ice-covered socks, and, diving into our warm breast-
pockets, hasten to cover bared feet with the night-socks which
have been dried in that receptacle. Suddenly, without warn-
ing, a leg shoots out whilst the owner exclaims loudly under
the sharp pain of violent cramp. The cooking- pot rocks
wildly, but in the confusion the ever-watchful cook rises to the
occasion and prevents a catastrophe.

A few moments more, and little spurts of steam rise from
the centre of interest ; snow has been converted into boiling
water, and the cook's busiest moment has arrived. Off come
the lids and covers, and in a moment all is hidden in a dense
cloud of steam, through which one can dimly perceive that the
cook has seized the candle and with its aid is conveying the
frozen ingredients of the supper into the boihng pot. Soon,
as he stirs, the most fragrant odour in the world greets our
nostrils. All other work ceases as the pot is lifted and its
precious contents poured into the ready pannikins. The cook
takes his perquisites by scraping out, with his spoon, all that
remains ; this done he refills the empty pot from the outer
cooker and sets it once more to boil. Then follows an inter-
regnum of comparative silence, broken only by the crunch of

352 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

biscuit or the smack of lips which have closed on a succulent
spoonful of hoosh.

This is a moment to be lived for — one of the brief
incidents of the day to which we can look forward with real
pleasure. The hot food seems to give new life, its grateful
warmth appears to run out to every limb, exhaustion vanishes,
and gradually that demon within, which has gripped so tightly
for the past hour or two, is appeased. The hoosh is followed
by an equally delightful drink of boiling hot cocoa, but even
as we gulp it down we feel that pleasure is drawing to an end,
for the Primus is now out, the steam of cooking that has not
passed away through the ventilator has frozen in glistening
crystals on the side of the tent, and the chill of the outer air is
again finding its way through the thin canvas.

There is no time to be wasted ; the door is opened, and
two people plunge out into the open air, the cooker and pro-
vision bag are hastily packed together, passed outside, and
made secure from the wind by heavy lumps of snow ; the floor
is swept, and the miscellaneous assortment of clothing is
collected with as much discrimination as possible into the
corners allotted to the various individuals. Meanwhile the
sleeping-bag is dragged to the door of the tent, and by dint of
much coaxing it is eventually got inside. By this time it is
quite stiff and hard ; it crackles as it is forced open, and has
to be flattened out with the full weight of the body. What
was once the soft covering flap will now stand erect and rigid,
so stiffened is it with ice. Inside, the hair is matted together
and hard frozen — so hard in places that under the raps of one's
knuckles it resounds like a wooden door. Could any bed be
more uninviting ?

Before we enter it we must have a look round. The sun
is skimming round below the southern horizon ; there is a
deep red flare in its wake. The sky is clear save in the south-
east, where lies a rather ominous bank of cloud. Are we in
for a blizzard ? Now and again a puff of wind sweeps over the
snow ; as it passes, the fine ice-crystals of the surface-drift
patter against the sledges and our legs and gather in little

I

I902] THE DIARIST'S WOES 353

sandy heaps beyond ; the tent, which has been flapping idly,
shivers violently as the blast sweeps by ; a last look at the
thermometer shows that the temperature has fallen to —48° ;
we wonder how much lower it is going, and make for the tent
door.

It doesn't do to dive straight in, for we may land in the
centre of someone else's anatomy, so we shout, ' All right for
coming in ? ' There is a scuffling, then ' Right, oh ! ' and we
dive with a blind lurch towards our own corner ; the last-
comer gathers up the loose folds of the door and ties them up
tightly; then we all sit round on the sleeping-bag and com-
plete our costume for the night. It is breathless work this,
dealing with hard frozen garments in such a cramped space.
Conversation is kept up in gasps, and now and again some
struggling figure has to pause for a rest ; but at length all are
ready, and, sweeping away the loose snow as far as possible,
we lift the flap of the sleeping-bag and step inside.

But the day's work is not yet over : this is the time for
diaries, meteorological records, casual repairs, and pipes. The
last-named, being the only attractive part of this programme,
is the first to be considered, and each smoker's hand dives
into the inner recesses of the pocket in which pipe, matches,
and his meagre allowance of tobacco are cherished. Ex-
perience soon teaches that a pipe must be kept in a very warm
place, otherwise the stem will be found choked with ice, with
which nothing but a stiff bit of wire will cope.

A diary is a great nuisance when the nights are dark : the
writer is obliged to secure the flickering lantern close beside
his book, and when the tent is being shaken by the wind the
fitful motion of the light can be imagined. As he pores over
his task his breath forms a film of ice over the paper, on which
the pencil frequently skids, and sometimes after writing a few
lines he will turn the page to the light and find half of it
illegible, so that he has to go painfully over each word afresh.
Now and again his bare fingers will refuse duty, and he must
wait awhile until they are nursed back to life. This sort of
thing does not help one's ideas to flow, and altogether the

VOL. I. A A

354 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

keeping of diaries and records is no joke in this cold weather.
Sewing is a still less pleasant job, and the garment must be
badly rent indeed before its owner undertakes its repair on a
spring journey.

As these tasks are finished, one by one the inhabitants of
the sleeping-bag wriggle down into its horny depths. The
last to lower himself is the centre man, who has still some
duties to perform. When the others have reported themselves
fixed, he laboriously wrestles with the fastenings of the bag
over their heads ; these secured, he ' dowses the glim ' and
works himself down as best he can between his companions,
and finally seals the opening above his own head. Ere this
dreaded night commences, the leader has again consulted his
watch and found that between two and three hours have
elapsed since the party halted.

The time consumed in all these simple operations of camp-
ing puzzled us greatly at first. There was no particular delay
anywhere ; from start to finish one was busy, and there was
every incentive to hurry, yet even with experience the interval
was very little shortened. The secret lies in the fact that the
simplest operation becomes complicated in intensely cold
weather. Even to change a pair of socks takes nearer five
minutes than one. The continuous thawing-out is the real
cause of delay, but the difficulty shows that the sledge-traveller
has much to occupy him in cold weather beyond dragging his
sledge over the snow.

A night in such a sleeping-bag as we are picturing, with
the temperature below —40°, cannot be said to be less than
horribly uncomfortable. We are rarely conscious of sleeping ;
certainly not oftener than one night in three can we realise that
several hours have passed in oblivion, and these seem only to
be bought at the price of extreme exhaustion. Ordinarily we
sleep in the fitful, broken, comfortless fashion of which the
mere recollection is a nightmare, and even this poor apology
for slumber does not come until we have lain broad awake and
shivering for an hour or two.

With the temperature at — 48° we can make a shrewd guess

I902] A NIGHT IN THE SLEEPING-BAG 355

as to the sort of night that is before us. The first half-hour
is spent in constant shifting and turning as each inmate of
the bag tries to make the best of his hard mattress or to draw
the equally hard covering closer about him. There is a de-
sultory muffled conversation broken by the chattering of teeth.
Suddenly the bag begins to vibrate, and we know that someone
has got the shivers. It is very contagious, this shivering, and
paroxysm after paroxysm passes through the whole party. We
do not try to check it : the violent shaking has a decidedly
warming effect ; besides, it is a necessary part of the programme,
and must be got through before we can hope for sleep.
Presently we hear our neighbour marking time, and we rather
unnecessarily ask him if his feet are cold ; he explains their
exact state in the most forcible language at his command.

All this time we are mentally surveying our own recumbent
figure and wondering whether the parts that feel so cold are
really properly covered or whether our garments have got
rucked up in the struggle for ease. Our hands are tucked
away in some complicated fashion that experience has com-
mended ; they are useless for exploring. Besides, we know of
old how far imagination can lead one. Our thoughts, taking
flying journeys round the world, flit past the tropics to log-wood
firesides, but they stop nowhere until they have raced back to
present discomfort. The last squirm brought the wind-guard
of our helmet across our face. It is crusted with the ice of the
day's march ; this is now gently thawing, and presently a drop
trickles down our nose. Our thoughts become fixed on that
drop. It is very irritating ; we long to wipe it away, but that
means taking out one hand and disarranging the whole scheme
of defence against the cold. We are debating the question
when a second drop descends. Flesh and blood cannot stand
this : out comes our hand, and for the next quarter of an hour
we are pitching and tossing about to try to regain the old
position.

It is all very small, very trivial ; yet there are probably few
who have not passed sufticiently restless nights to appreciate
how these trivialities weigh on such an occasion, and here we

A A 2

356 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

have in their most concrete form the greater part of those
elements which go to disturb the rest of man.

We start to count those imaginary sheep jumping over
their imaginary hurdles for the hundredth time as the shivering
lessens. The last half-hour has brought a change ; we are no
longer encased with ice. There are signs of a thaw ; above
and below the bag is less rocky ; it is becoming damp and
coldly clammy, but it covers us better. There is just a sus-
picion of somnolence, when suddenly the whole bag is shaken
violently and we hear the most harrowing groans. It is only
another attack of the cramp, an enemy that is never far away.
We try to sympathise with the victim as we start the sheep
jumping afresh.

And so this wearisome night passes on, with its round of
trivial detail and its complete absence of peace and comfort.
It was the same last night, and it will be the same to-morrow.

It is not an exaggeration to say that we dreaded these
nights, yet it is worthy of record that none passed without a
jest ; the more cheerless and uncomfortable the conditions
became, the more light-hearted grew the men.

I have mentioned only some of their ills. Besides cramp,
cold feet, and general discomfort, many were attacked by
rheumatism ; later, snow-blindness intervened. Another great
source of trouble was indigestion and heartburn. I, with
several others, had never known this ailment under ordinary
conditions, but during the earlier sledging days it attacked us
most fiercely. Also, of course, frost-bites were common, with
painfully blistered faces and hands ; feet were likewise blistered
on the long, fatiguing marches.

To all these ills were our sailors regularly and constantly
exposed on their sledge journeys, and not only did they hate
to forego their share, but never an evil fell on them but they
made so light of it that one would have thought they were
engaged in the most humorous occupation imaginable. Their
conversation either on the journey or after their return could
have conveyed only one impression — that the whole thing was
a glorified picnic. It was not that the jokes were of a high

1902] 'TIME TO GET UP!' 357

order. The acknowledged humourists were in the minority, and
even they were reduced to the feeblest witticisms : the striking
thing was their capacity for finding amusement, not only in
the dull and prosaic, but in the physically miserable. There
are few people, I take it, who will not appreciate the saving
qualities of this sense of humour, or who have not at some
time experienced the advantage of meeting misfortune with a
smile ; there are few, therefore, who will not realise that one
would have to search far for a better sledge-companion than
the British bluejacket.

If refreshing sleep comes at all on a spring sledge journey
it will be in the early morning hours, when the sleeping-bag
has thawed down on its occupants, and they, though damp,
can get better protection from its folds ; it is now, therefore,
that we doze for brief intervals and wake in fitful starts. The
leader, who alone possesses a watch, is conscious of his
responsibility for rousing the party, and wonders vaguely in his
waking moments what the time may be. To look at his watch
is a thing only to be done when all other evidence as to the
passage of time has been duly considered, for it means that
his present attitude has to be disturbed ; he must struggle with
his garments to produce the watch, and, worse still, he must
slightly open the sleeping-bag so that the grey outer light may
fall on its face. Therefore before he moves he recalls the
incidents of the night and sums up in imagination the intervals
of time which have elapsed between them ; he arrives at the
conclusion that another half-hour may well pass before he
disturbs himself.

Then the deed has to be done, and he shuffles the watch-
face up to the light. As he peers into it his l)reath freezes on
the face, and he has to rub again before he can mark the
position of the hands, but finally they show that there is still
a quarter of an hour to the time of rising. He tucks away his
timekeeper and lies wakefully counting the minutes. When
he thinks the fifteen have elapsed he shouts, ' Time to get
up ! ' It is evident the others have been waiting for the signal.
There is no lagging ; even the morning hours have not made

358 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

the bag sufficiently comfortable for anyone to desire to linger
in it. The toggles are soon undone, and we all hoist our-
selves into a sitting position and search about us for mits and
other articles of attire. A prolonged howl is sent forth into
the dim morning light, ' Rouse out ! Rouse out ! Time to get
up ! ' and presently one hears the mufifled response from the
other tents, ' A' right, sir ! ' A moment or two more, and all
are busy again.

The murmur of conversation in the other tents comes to
our ears, and occasionally some remark intended for the whole
camp. Two of us have tumbled out through the door of the
tent, and the moist sleeping-bag is dragged through to be rolled
up outside. The cook has already dashed for his Primus
lamp ; the cooker is filled and passed in, and soon the hissing
sound in each tent tells that breakfast preparations have com-
menced.

We take a swift run round to the other tents to inquire the
news of the night and make a rapid survey of the various
ailments ; then on to the thermometer to find the spirit column
resting at —45°, though the indicator shows that it has been
colder in the night ; its upper end is resting more than 50''
below zero (in fact, on spring journeys it was often found
below — 60°). The temperature is slowly rising, but it is still
bitter enough as we seek again the shelter of the tent.

It is lucky that the watched pot does occasionally boil, for
all eyes are now glued on the cooker, and, thanks to its
efficiency, no long time passes before the pemmican can be
thrown in and the savoury smell of breakfast arises. With
breakfast, peace and comfort again reign for a short spell, and
whilst its grateful warmth is still felt we puff again at our
pipe and collect as best we can our boots and other articles
necessary for the day's march. The sun has just risen
above the horizon, but the wind has come with it, and its
golden rays are reddened by the low driving snowdrift.
Some of the worst ordeals of the day are before us, and to
venture into the open in the wind is not a pleasing prospect.
Faces take rather a grim expression, but delay doesn't help

I902] FROZEN FINNESKOES 359

matters ; things have to be done, and they are done somehow.
With the coming of the sun the flickering lantern can be dis-
pensed with, and now we can see well to put on our marching
boots.

It is very trying work. With a caution born of experience
we took immense care last night in freezing them to conform
as nearly as possible to the shape of our feet. After the march
they had been wet through, and came off in a soft and flabby
condition ; we knew that this would only last for a few minutes,
and as they froze we had carefully supported and kneaded
them into the required shape. Half an hour later they were
so hard that we could throw them about without risk of alter-
ing it ; they are still in this condition, and we are about to
test the result of our labours. They clatter like wooden sabots
as they are deposited on the floorcloth.

We squat down and withdraw one foot from its night-
clothing, grope in our breast for our day-socks, produce one
of them still very wet but moderately warm, jam our foot into
it, and with many gasps proceed to wedge it into a wooden
finnesko. The finnesko has been prepared by placing in it a
sole cut from reindeer-skin and a little padding of senncgrces.
This grass is soft, but the sole is as wooden as the boot, and
has needed much pushing to get it in place. We are lucky if
our foot gets half-way into its rocky cover at the first attempt.
We leave it at that for the moment, and proceed with the
other ; by the time it is in a similar position, an inch can
be gained on the first, and so inch by inch these tiresome
boots are pulled on. Meanwhile our feet have got alarmingly
cold, and with a groan we are obliged to start up and stamp
about.

There is no exaggeration in the above picture. The putting
on of our finneskoes in very cold weather was generally a
matter of excruciating agony ; it often brought tears to the
eyes and always strong expressions to the lips, and all this
with footwear that on board the ship could be put on as easily
as one's hat. Yet even when one was fuming in this discom-
fort, a glance at one's writhing companions made it impossible

36o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

not to appreciate the humorous side of the situation, and we
have often paused in the midst of our trying labours to indulge
in a real hearty laugh.

Heaven help the man who had failed in caution on the
previous night ! At first, from want of experience, and later
from carelessness or by accident, a boot would be found in
the morning squeezed flat and frozen hard in that impossible
shape. There was nothing for the owner to do but to thaw
it into shape with his foot, which had to be withdrawn at
intervals and rubbed violently to restore the circulation, The
least time in which one could hope to cope with a boot of
this description was half an hour.

By this time all have their foot-gear on, and have re-
adjusted all their clothes ready for the march. Considerably
over two hours have elapsed since we roused out of the sleep-
ing-bag. When all is ready comes the order, ' Pack up.' Out
tumble all the thickly clad figures ; lamps, cookers, and sleep-
ing-bags are bundled into their proper places on the sledges,
the snow is shovelled off the tent, and the latter is whisked off
its poles, shaken, and folded up ; the floorcloth is rolled up
or secured to a bamboo to serve as a sail. All these articles
are soon piled on the sledges and securely strapped down ;
the camp has disappeared as though by magic, and all that is
left to mark the spot is the weird circles of snow-blocks which
held the tents.

The warming effect of breakfast has long since vanished,
and now all is eagerness to be on the march. The harness is
soon picked up from the snow and adjusted about the body ;
then, with a final look to see that nothing has been left behind,
we bend to the traces and the leader says, ' Off.'

There is rarely much conversation on the march, especially
in cold weather ; and, starting with a quick, warming step, it is
not long before we have fallen into our regular stride — that
steady rhythmic plod before which the miles come slowly but
surely. In half an hour's time the blood is flowing freely,
garments are hanging more easily, and our boots have thawed
sufficiently to give to the step. A halt is called to tighten up

I902] THE MARCH RESUMED 361

our lamp-wick straps and to readjust the folds about our legs
to the new conditions ; then we are off once more.

And now hour after hour creeps on whilst we seem to have
turned into a machine — a machine that must keep moving
with that regular swinging step, and now, thank heaven, a
machine that can do so without straining its parts. A week
ago things were very different ; we vividly remember the start
of the journey, when, in spite of the temperature, the perspira-
tion ran off us, when our legs seemed uncontrollable members,
and our back one huge ache. Since that, day by day we have
grown stronger on the trail, until now the early hours of the
march are almost a physical pleasure, and it is only towards its
end that we feel the weight of the sledges. Yet withal progress
is not rapid ; one and three-quarter mile an hour is good going.
Sometimes we come down to one and a half or less, and if we
exceed two we seem to be racing. Still, even a mile and a half
an hour produces a fair total for the day, if we can keep it
going for nine hours or more. So we plod along mechanically,
each footfall but little in advance of the last, whilst the sledges
come jerkily in our wake and leave the long, snaky furrows
behind.

At one o'clock there is a halt for lunch. Here we score,
for in the old days with ponderous, dilatory cooking-apparatus
the sledge traveller could not afford to take his luncheon hot ;
but with us the cooker is singing ten minutes after we halt, and
in less than half an hour we have hot tea or cocoa ; and whilst
we munch our modest allowance of biscuit and cheese, the hot
fluid once more sends the blood coursing through our veins.

I think there can be no doubt as to the benefit of this hot
meal in the middle of the day, though possibly some hardened
travellers may consider it an unnecessary luxury ; it forms an
oasis in the long desert of the day's march, it breathes new
vigour and spirit into a flagging party. For lack of fuel I have
been long spells without a hot drink at midday, and therefore I
know well the difference it makes to the afternoon march ; and
though I know the case is not strong scientifically, I am pre-
pared to affirm that the distance gained on the marches

362 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept

more than compensates for the extra weight of fuel required.
Personally I always preferred cocoa to tea for this meal, mainly
because tea is not a food, and can only stimulate. The fact
that we took tea on our sledge journeys was rather a concession
to the men, who from habit are much attached to this beverage;
indeed, there were one or two men who positively disliked
cocoa. The best marching hours were always those which
succeeded the lunch hour.

But an hour under these conditions literally flies, and we
have barely swallowed our lunch and drawn a whiff or two
from our pipes when the order comes to ' pack up ' ; tents and
cookers are again packed on the sledge, harness is resumed,
and we are once more on the march.

So mechanically and evenly go these marching hours that I
have sometimes had to collect my thoughts to remember
whether it is morning or afternoon, or even where I am and
what I am doing. It is easy to go into reverie and fly away to
the ends of the earth ; nothing disturbs the silence but the
regular crunch of the snow-crust and the swish of the sledge-
runner.

But now the wind is springing up again. Throughout the
day the clouds have been banking up from the south ; they are
now travelling fast overhead, a low flying scud. The sun peeps
through at rarer and rarer intervals, the sky and the mountains
look very black and sombre, and throw up the intense white-
ness of the snow ; the surface drift comes whirling along in
ghostly wreaths, and patters about our feet. The outlook is
threatening, but we don't want to lose our miles if we can help
it, so we plod along as before. As the wind grows stronger,
one by one out go the face-guards, and we march with heads
turned slightly to the right, away from it. We must keep our
eye open for frost-bites now : they will give no warning. Pre-
sently the leader calls a halt ; everyone knows what it is for,
and each peers into the face of his next-door neighbour.
Apparently all is well, and off we go again ; a quarter of an
hour later there is another halt and we hear, 'Your cheek's
gone, Jim,' and Jim immediately extracts his hand from his

1902] CAMPING IN A BLIZZARD 363

mit and places it over the offending feature. Also Jim knows
that there will be a blister there to-morrow.

Once more we resume the march, and for long it is only
interrupted by the occasional search for frost-bites. To the
south the outlook appears still more gloomy, and presently
some adjacent hill-spur disappears as though it had fallen
through the earth, completely blotted out by a sheet of deep
grey which is rushing towards us. This is the threatened
storm, and the sooner we are in camp the better. We cast
round for a camping ground and rush for the likeliest spot ; we
halt and dash for the sledges ; we think of nothing but getting
the tents up in time. But alas ! we have marched just five
minutes too long, and we have scarcely placed the tent-poles
before the storm is upon us.

The air is thick with driving snow-crystals ; they lash at our
face like a sand blast. It is impossible to face them directly,
and we rush to and fro with averted head. So thick is the air
that we can scarcely see the sledges from the tent position,
though only six or seven yards lie between. It is each
party for itself now with a vengeance. One of our three hangs
on like grim death to the tent-poles, whilst the others bear the
fluttering, straining canvas to windward and strive to envelop
him. Once or twice they fail, but at last the tent is over, and
whilst to windward it is stretched taut on the bending
bamboos, to leeward it is flapping madly in the rising gale.
One of us sits on the weather skirt, and the other flies for the
shovel and returns to dig with wild haste. It is a long and
difficult job this, to set up a tent in a heavy wind whilst the
snow curls and bites into our face and creeps into our mits
and into every hole and crevice it can find in our garments.
That wildly flapping skirting is only conquered inch by inch by
the united efforts of the whole party. But it is bound to be
done, and the sooner the better, so we work with all the
strength that remains to us.

We must have everything handy now, so when the tent is
secured we fly for sleeping-bag, cooker, and anything else we
may need, and bundle them all indiscriminately into the

364 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

interior, following ourselves with all the haste we can compass.
Only when door and ventilator are tied have we time to look
about us, and then the sight is not pleasant. The powdery
snow-dust lies inches deep everywhere ; it has covered every-
thing we possess, and lies thick in every crack of the sleeping-
bag. We ourselves are white from head to foot, and none of
us but is keenly frost-bitten about the face, whilst one has two
of his fingers white to the knuckles. Something hot is what
all need, and we set about to get it with the least possible
waste of time, whilst we brush the snow as best we can from
our belongings.

Supper makes one feel better, and immediately after we
unroll the sleeping-bag and commence to prepare ourselves
for entering it. We know from experience what all this snow
will mean ; we cannot wholly banish it, and the icy condition
of our belongings is nothing to what it will be ; yet we sweep
and sweep as diligently as may be with our fur mits to make
the best of a bad job, till finally we lift the cover of the bag
and settle ourselves with all possible care within.

It is curious to lie like this in a blizzard ; luckily the
temperature has gone up, as it always does on these occasions.
The rise is apparent in every way ; we can handle things more
easily, our breath does not rise in such steaming clouds ; but,
above all, there is a milder and easier feel in the air once one
is out of the lash of the wind. Our discomforts now come
more from the miserably chilly wetness of everything than from
the actual cold.

Meanwhile the storm without is raging unabated, and the
thin canvas of the tent is flapping with a continuous roar that
drowns all noise within ; conversation can only be carried on
by shouting. Still, the main point is that we are all in the
sleeping-bag and safe and sound if not very comfortable, so in
due course we settle ourselves in its depths and draw over us
the protecting flap. There will be no shivering to-night at
any rate, and we can smoke our pipes with greater ease in
consequence ; here, in the depths of the bag, the mad flapping
of the tent has sunk to distant thunder.

I902] A WEARISOME DAY 365

The chances are that on the following day the blizzard will
not have gone down ; our blizzards usually last for more than
twenty-four hours, and therefore next morning one is not
surprised to hear the tent flogging away as wildly as ever.
Breakfast is deferred for an hour, but man must live, and it
is better to keep one's strength up at all times, so at last we all
get out of the bag, roll it up carefully, and prepare our meal.

The meal over, the bag is spread again, and in it we while
away the hours as best we can. It is an admirable lesson of
patience, since we are absolutely incapable of bettering matters
till the clouds roll by. We only allow ourselves two hot meals
— a late breakfast, and then supper as darkness is again
descending on us. During these meals the bag is rolled up,
but lunch, with its scraps of biscuit, cheese, sugar, and
chocolate, is eaten inside it ; one keeps all these luxuries in
a warm breast pocket and munches away at them at intervals.

How unutterably wearisome these long daylight hours are !
The smoker looks ruefully at his small stock of tobacco ; to
smoke now is to rob the future, but the temptation is great,
and he argues that just half a pipe will not make much
difference, so he lights up, but in a quarter of an hour finds
himself sucking at an empty bowl. The inside of the bag has
grown moist where it comes into contact with the body, whilst
the ice is still hard in the corners ; the damp has worked
through to the skin, and we seem to be swathed in wet
bandages. It is horribly cold and clammy, and we think of
what joy it would be to be able to walk into our comfortable
wardroom, to rub ourselves with a rough towel, don dry
clothing, and bask in the rays of the glowing fire.

Now and again conversation breaks out ; someone tells
a droll legend of his infancy ; the tale carries us away to other
places and other times for a space, forgetful of our miserable
surroundings ; but the effort flickers and dies, and gradually
thought creeps back to the present. The small aneroid
barometers are consulted again and again ; there has been
a slight fall for the gale, not more than two or three tenths of
an inch, but we eagerly look for a rise ; occasionally a head is

366 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

raised out of tlie bag to contemplate the green canopy above,
but no one cares to look long at the shivering canvas and
trembling bamboos ; a glance is sufficient to show that the
conditions without are unchanged. And as the long day goes
by and the second night creeps on we eat our modest supper
and once more resort to the bag. As we settle ourselves for
the night we are conscious of the first sign of break in the
gale. The wind is becoming more squally ; during the furious
gusts the tent flaps more madly than ever, but between
whiles there is a sensible indication of peace, and we shut
ourselves in with hopes that we are approaching the end of
our imprisonment.

By the early hours of the morning the improvement is very
marked ; we are conscious that for brief spells the canvas is
still, and that even in the squalls it is less violently agitated.
This is the beginning of the end ; the air is probably still full
of flying snow-crystals, but in a few hours they will be settling
and the nimbus clouds will have passed us by. When we rise
at the first streaks of dawn it is to a brighter prospect ; the light
which penetrates the green walls of the tent is sufficient to
show that there must be a clear sky. These walls are fluttering
only at rare intervals and in gentle fashion, chiefly because the
wind has fallen, but partly also because they are banked high
with drift snow which has caused them to sag in on every side
until the inner space is narrowed by some feet. The door is
completely drifted up by a heavy bank.

After rolling up the sleeping-bag the first thing to be done
is to effect an exit, and this we do by lying on our backs and kick-
ing for all we are worth at the snow-banked canvas. After a
bit we can untie the door, and, still kicking, force our way out ;
then the shovel is found, and with its aid the drifts are soon
diminished.

We drop at once into our usual camping routine, but as the
cook prepares the breakfast we have time to look about us and
to note the havoc wrought by the gale. The sledges are
almost covered, and we know well that the boxes and tanks on
them will be found partly, if not wholly, filled. Our tent is

1902] RESULT OF A BLIZZARD 367

covered with ice, the sleeping-bag is filled with it, and there is
not a single acticle of our equipment which has not had pounds
added to its weight. It is a gruesome thought ; the tempera-
ture is falling again, and we shall soon have the normal condition
of intense cold, with an accumulation of ice which will double
each separate discomfort. We realise we are in for a ' high old
time,' and that the effects of this gale will be felt to the bitter
end of the journey ; there will be no drying, and the ice which
we have gathered will remain with us throughout. However,
it is no use inveighing against the inevitable, and we start to dig
out our sledges, and afterwards books, instruments, and pro-
visions are taken out and brushed, whilst the tanks and boxes
in which they have reposed are freed as far as possible from the
sandy deposit. Then we go back to the tent for our well-
earned breakfast, and in due course step forth once more on
the march.

As can well be imagined, the diaries which record the
doings of a sledge party, and which are written in such adverse
circumstances as I have described, do not enter into the hard-
ships and discomforts which are inevitable to the day's work,
but in the main are devoted to the special incidents of the
particular day. Such references to the normal conditions as
they contain are rather in the form of hasty and incomplete
entries which would convey little to the outsider, though
they may amply stimulate the memory of the writer, who
possesses the key to the situation. It will not be difficult to
understand, however, that the person who has actually been
through sledging experiences will have little trouble in recalling
their general nature. The daily recurrence of discomforts and
hardships leaves an impression which is not easily dispelled,
and his memory affords him ample material for drawing a
typical picture of the sledge-traveller's daily round.

It would be impossible in describing the special incidents
of our journeys always to supply the detail which would make
the circumstances clear. I have therefore in this chapter
endeavoured to describe what may be considered the normal
experiences and environment of the spring sledging parties,

368 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept

and thus to provide a general background for the more varied
adventures of our individual excursions. I am not conscious
of colouring the picture highly — the discomforts are far too
real to need imaginative treatment — nor is it conceivable that
anyone would willingly face such conditions without some
sufficient object to compensate for the hardships endured.

But it must be remembered that all these conditions which
I have described are a result of the severe temperatures and
storms of the spring. Fortunately for the sledge traveller, as
the season advances, the climatic conditions become milder,
and in summer the sledging life may become not only bearable
but pleasant. It has always seemed to me that scarcely
sufficient stress is laid on this difference in Arctic books of
travel. One is apt to overlook the fact that the conditions
described in the earlier journeys have passed away during the
more extended efforts, and that in some of the latter the
travellers have actually suffered more from the sun and the
heat than from the cold. In point of fact, summer sledging
is so different from spring sledging that it might well be con-
sidered a separate employment, and therefore the description
of a day's travelling in spring can convey no impression of the
summer traveller's experiences, unless, of course, he is journey-
ing on a high plateau (such as the summit of Victoria Land),
where the climate is continuously severe.

In the South, as compared with the North, we were much
handicapped by the late advent of our improved temperature
conditions. There is generally a considerable rise in the
Northern April ; in May the air can be mild and pleasant, and
in June it is sometimes disagreeably warm. In the South we
got no marked improvement until the early part of November,
which corresponds to the Northern May. December was the
finest and mildest month, though the temperature rarely rose
above the freezing-point, but even then we had sometimes cause
to complain of the heat.

It would not be possible to describe a typical summer day's
sledging, because two days were rarely alike, and so much
depended on the direction in which we travelled and on the

I902] IMPROVED MARCHING CONDITIONS 369

object of the journey ; but it is perhaps as well to point out
wherein it differed from such experiences as I have already
described. In summer, of course, there was full daylight ; one
lived and slept and ate with the sun circling above the
horizon, and the flickering candle formed no part of one's equip-
ment. During the night one's boots had reposed near the
tent : much of the damp had dried from them, and although
they were frozen, there was little difficulty in thawing them —
they could be put on and secured neatly whilst the breakfast
was being prepared.

On a fine day in summer the first task is to drag the
sleeping-bag out into the open, to turn it inside out and
support it facing the sun ; by this means much of the moisture
is evaporated out and much forms in tiny crystals on the hair
and can be brushed away. Sometimes it is carried on top
of the sledge in this way, so that the drying process may con-
tinue, but if the weather is unsettled it is thoroughly beaten
and turned again before packing. Except during blizzards and
cold snaps, this sleeping-bag has become a really pleasant
resort. There may be a litde ice under each person's body,
but the greater part of the material is soft and pliable, and
after a hard day's march one snuggles comfortably into its
folds and is soon away in dreamland.

The cooking-things can be handled now without much
difficulty, and the ends of one's fingers no longer display a row
of horny blisters, though in many places they have dried and
split and there are deep cuts about the nails.

We start on the march without our wind-clothes ; in fact,
we rarely wear them now except when it is blowing or snowing.
In place of our helmets we now wear a broad-brimmed hat, for
the glare of the sun is great, and with its reflection on the
white snow it has already burnt us all to a deep chocolate
colour ; while at night we wear a simple Balaclava. Soon
after the march starts we are perspiring freely ; the labour is
very heavy, and we are not sorry to be able to throw open our
coat. We scarcely realise that the air is chill until a halt
shows it is necessary to button up again. Mits are still slung

VOL. I. B B

370 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

around our necks, but we usually march with our hands free
and yet with pleasantly pink fingers.

On coming to camp we can take things coolly — and as the
march has been carried to its utmost length, we are capable of
little else. Except for the cook, no one enters the tent now
until supper is ready ; for the rest there is plenty to be done
in thoroughly securing the tent, opening out the sleeping-bag,
and spreading out damp articles to dry. The cook calls us
when supper is ready, and we are not slow in answering the
call. After supper we leisurely change our foot-gear and
spread out the sleeping-bag, but instead of jumping into the
latter at once we carry our sodden boots and stockings into the
open and distribute them about the sledges, taking care to
secure them with string or safety pins that no unkind gust may
waft them away whilst we sleep.

After this, with the memory of supper still fresh, it is
comfortable enough to sit in the sleeping-bag, smoke our pipes,
write up our diaries, and stitch away at some torn garment ;
then, perhaps, as the chill of the air creeps in or the fatigue of
the day overcomes us, we creep down into our berths and are
soon asleep. If it is calm and the sun shines directly on the
canvas side, it can be quite warm within the tent ; sometimes
we have to sleep with our heads in the open, and on rarer
occasions we have even had to leave the bag and sleep on top
of it.

But there are troubles in the summer travelling as well
as in the spring, though they are of a somewhat different
nature.

There are blizzards and winds still to be contended with ;
either will cover us with snow and put a stop to the drying,
and we have several days of damp misery before we can
recover from its effects. We leave our socks out to dry in a
bright sun. The wind springs up in the night, and they are
covered with drift ; the sun melts this into the fabric, and in
the morning, instead of dry foot-wear, we have to grapple with
masses of ice. The same sun melts the snow on the tent and
covers it with a sheet of ice. Though the temperature may be

1902] DISADVANTAGES OF SUMMER 371

below freezing, snow incautiously left in the provision tank
will melt and render everything soft and sodden.

From start to finish of the march we have to wear goggles
for protection against the intense glare, but we grow inexpressibly
sick of these safeguards, and weary of always seeing the world
through a tiny aperture. In spite of this protection, too, snow-
blindness is common, and rarely a night goes by but someone
needs doctoring ; the solution of zinc sulphate is thawed out,
and the sufferer lies flat on his back whilst a ministering
companion drops the remedy into his eyes with the end of a
match. It is one of those remedies which might be thought
worse than the disease, for it gives the victim what he calls
' gyp,' and generally keeps him awake for the next hour or two
with throbbing eyeballs.

In the spring journeys the marches had to be suited to the
conditions, but in the summer we live to march ; there is no
excuse for dawdling in the morning now, and we are soon on
the go. Hour after hour passes till the welcome halt for
lunch, and then again hour after hour till the night camp is
pitched. It is very toilsome work. Day after day we put
forth our best efforts, but though physically fit and hard, it is
impossible not to feel stale at times and to long for the hands
of the watch to go faster ; the number of miles to show for a
long day's work seems ridiculously inadequate to the exertion
expended. When camping time comes, we feel almost
inclined to drop in our tracks and wish to goodness there was
someone else to pitch the tent or do the cooking. The march
has been arranged to absorb the maximum portion of our
energy, but there is not much present satisfaction in contem-
plating the limp condition that results. With the most
desperate desire to sit or lie down, we remember that it is our
duty to fix the position, and, with a groan, plod away to the
instrument box, produce theodolite, watch, and notebook, and
endeavour to collect all our faculties to start on the dreary
round of observations.

But our most poignant suffering during the summer season
comes to us by reason of our hunger. The spring absence was

B B 2

372 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

not long enough fully to develop the pangs, but now, as week
follows week, we become more famished until our thoughts
turn to little else but food. The effects of breakfast have
passed in an hour, or at the most two, and we plod on with
unsatisfied longings during the morning. Lunch has become
almost an insult in its insufficiency ; it is gone in a twinkling,
and we gaze at the provision bag, frown at the cook, and wonder
if he has not cut our allowance too fine with a misplaced ardour
for saving. The end of the afternoon is sometimes really pain-
ful ; tired and worn, we feel a positive gnawing in the middle
and begin to doubt if supper-time will ever come.

When at length the halt is called there is no need to hurry
the cook, though the conversation takes a personal turn if he
is clumsy with the Primus. Our sensations from the moment
that the first savoury scent of cooking issues from the tent till
the last drop of hoosh is poured down our craving throats are
beyond description ; they can only be imagined, and not even
that by such as have not known what hunger really is.
It is well to be asleep before the effects of supper wear off, but
this is rarely possible, and it is always a wise precaution to
haul one's belt quite tight for the night.

Summer sledging is, in fact, a grind ; it is a grind because
only by putting forth one's utmost can one hope to achieve
success, and because a self-imposed task can be carried to
whatever lengths one chooses. Although it is conducted
under far less severe conditions than those of the spring
journeys, it has drawbacks and difficulties of its own, which
are increased in proportion to the serious nature of the effort
which is being made.

At perhaps too tedious a length I have set forth the objects
of sledging, the manner in which it is organised and conducted,
and the difficulties with which it has to contend. I cannot
conclude without calling momentary attention to it as an
occupation for men, apart from the more practical results
which it purports to achieve.

Sledging draws men into a closer companionship than can
any other mode of life. In its light the fraud must be quickly

1902] THE. FASCINATION OF SLEDGING 373

exposed, but in its light also the true man stands out in all
his natural strength.

Sledging therefore is a sure test of a man's character, and
daily calls for the highest qualities of which he is possessed.
Throughout my sledging experience it has been my lot to
observe innumerable instances of self-sacrifice, of devotion to
duty, and of cheerfulness under adversity ; such qualities
appeared naturally in my comrades because they were de-
manded by the life.

It is in considering this that perhaps the reader will see
that there is a charm and fascination in the sledging life
despite its hardships land trials.

374 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

CHARTER Xn

THE SPRING JOURNEYS OF I902

Spring Sledging Plans — Start of Sledging Season — Parties Leave the Ship
— Submarine Ice — Start on Southern Reconnaissance— An Inopportune
Blizzard — Return to the Ship— Fresh Start — Journey to the Bluft'—
Difficult Travelling— Placing the Depot— Rapid Return — Report of
Outbreak of Scurvy — Experiences of Western Party — Steps taken to
Combat the Disease — Some Remarks on the Nature of Scurvy — Causes
which may have Led to our Outbreak — Impossibility of Determining
its Exact Origin — Prospects of Future South Polar Expeditions in this
Respect.

And the deed of high endeavour

Was no more to the favoured few,

But brain and heart were the measure

Of what every man might do Rennell Rodd.

Tired of the long winter's inaction, impatient to be away
on our travels, and anxious to submit our diligent preparations
to a practical test, we waited restlessly during the latter end
of August 1902 for the sun to achieve a suflicient altitude to
give us light for a reasonable proportion of the twenty-four
hours. So ignorant were we of our surroundings, and so
formidable appeared many of the obstacles which we could
view from our neighbouring heights, that it seemed desirable
to devote our first efforts principally to reconnaissance.

In accordance with a plan which had long been conceived,
Armitage was to conduct a party to the west, and, travelling
light, was to explore the region of New Harbour and endeavour
to find some route whereby the inland ice might be reached
to the northward of that forbidding range of mountains which
faced the ship. It was realised that he would have to cross

1902] SPRING SLEDGING PLANS 375

the sea- ice and turn slightly to the north to avoid the decayed
glacier tongue on which we had landed from the ship. At
the same time, with the sea-ice so constantly being broken
up by the heavy gales, the party would have to be extremely
cautious in their movements in order to avoid all risk of being
carried away on a broken floe. Yet as long as the sea-ice
held firm, it would afford a smooth and easy road, possibly
the only one on which the obstacles would not prove in-
superable.

Royds, with another light travelling party, was to journey
to the south-west. Here our lofty mountain range again fell,
and though snow-covered peaks could be seen in the far
distance, there appeared to be a glacier of great volume
descending into the strait. Here, then, was another possibility
of finding a road to the inland. All depended on what lay
between, and whilst the prospect was not hopeful, it was
quite possible that by turning and twisting amongst the
various obstructions a clear road could be found.

To have laden either of these parties with sufficient food
to make a depot for future journeys would have been to limit
their ability for exploration ; obviously the first step was to
find the road. I had entrusted the western exploration to
Armitage, and it would be for him, after the return of these
parties, to decide on the best route to be taken.

I had decided in the very early winter months to under-
take the southern work myself, and as every consideration
seemed to point to this being the best route for the dogs,
I had determined that all these animals should be com-
mandeered for it, making the journey essentially a dog- sledging
trip. For a long time I contemplated taking only one
companion, thinking that two persons would be sufficient to
manage the animals, while the saving of weight would com-
pensate for the extra trouble ; but in considering the difficulties
which might arise from the unknown nature of the route and
the risk of sickness, I finally decided on increasing the number
to three. Long before this my two chosen companions, Barne
and Shackleton, had been training themselves for tlie wiuk.

376 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

From our hills we could see two possible roads to the
south. One lay outside the White Island and promised the
smoother travelling, but necessitated a considerable detour.
The other was more direct, and led towards the high black
cape which we commonly called the Bluff; it passed between
the 'White' and 'Black' Islands, and though it seemed to
contain some rough places, I thought it worth exploring, on
the chance of saving the longer distance.

But in making a spring journey to observe these routes it
was obvious that as one or the other must eventually be taken
by the main party, in either case that party must pass around
the Bluff, so that it was advisable that the southern recon-
naissance party should carry enough food to be able to
establish a depot at the Bluff.

Besides these early efforts at clearing the routes for the
main journeys, one other matter claimed our attention in the
spring programme : we had still to communicate with the record
at Cape Crozier. It was advisable that this should be done
before the longer journeys were undertaken, but I thought
it might be left until after the reconnaissance parties had
returned.

As a preliminary to the commencement of the spring pro-
gramme, I decided to make a short trip to the north with the
dogs and a party of six officers and men, mainly in order to
test the various forms of harness which we had on trial, and
to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large or small
teams ; but incidentally there were many minor topographical
features in this direction which we could not see clearly from
the hills, and which we now wished to make sure of.

On September 2 we started in a blizzard and camped in
conditions of some discomfort ; on the following day we pushed
on past the Turtle Rock and found ourselves brought up by
the long tongue of a glacier. Although this was but eight
miles from the ship, from our hills we had only been able
to make out a wavy, indistinct shadow, showing how extra-
ordinarily limited is the distance at which one can detect ice
disturbances.

1902] PRELIMINARY TRIPS 377

This glacier tongue is worthy of a short description,
because it is typical of other ice formations in the Ross
Sea, and has puzzling characteristics for which, even to this
day, we have not been able to account. It consisted of a thin
tongue of ice, about five miles long, which shot out directly
into the bay and thus into a position where the sea-ice annually
formed and broke up on each side of it. It was little broader
at its base than at its end, but both sides of the tongue were
deeply serrated, so that a man walking along the top would
find it might narrow to a quarter of a mile, or broaden out to
nearly three-quarters. Moreover, thus pursuing his way along
the top he would gradually rise and fall in level perhaps as
much as ten or twenty feet, the outer higher parts being
separated by many valleys from the inner. If the reader
considers this shape, he will see that it suggests itself as an
impossible form for an active ice-stream to take, and though
it led directly away from the higher southern snow-slopes of
Mount Erebus, one could not conceive that it had been
actually formed by those snow-slopes in their present condition.

Later on we sounded around the end and for some way on
each side of this glacier ; we found that the ice-tongue, or at
least the end of it, regularly rose and fell with the tide, and
nowhere about it could we get anything but deep soundings.
Now, not far to the north were some rugged volcanic islets,
showing that the bottom of the bay may be very irregular ; but
if some irregularity kept this long fragile tongue in position,
why should it rise and fall with the tide ? To all intents and
purposes we seemed to have a peninsula of ice floating in the
sea, and yet for year after year failing to break away from its
source. For this phenomenon we could never find a reason,
but for the general shape of this ice-formation I shall hope to
advance an explanation in a later chapter. Before we left our
winter quarters we spent a long time camped in its vicinity,
and in consequence had many an argument concerning it.

On September 5 we crossed this glacier tongue and ex-
plored the islets beyond. They were of little interest, being
merely masses of volcanic rubble, but as we crossed we noticed

3)8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

that the ice underfoot was of very recent growth ; evidently the
sea had been swept clear beyond the snout of the glacier quite
lately. What we had seen from the hilltop latterly was no
figment of our imagination, for whilst we lay snug and secure
in our winter quarters the sea had been open, and probably
tempestuous, within seven or eight miles of us.

On this journey we took our four sledges independently,
with four dogs harnessed to each. We found that if the first
team got away all right, the others did pretty well at ' follow
my leader.' Sometimes there was even some competition for
place, and on one occasion two competing teams gradually
converged, with the natural result that when they got close
enough to see what was happening it occurred to them that
much the easiest way to settle the matter would be by a free
fight ; the teams therefore turned inwards with one accord and
met with a mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing
mass of fur and teeth and an almost inextricable confusion of
dog traces. Even in the short interval that elapsed before the
drivers were amongst them, beating right and left, it was
possible to see that the code was observed ; each dog confined
his attentions to the ' enemy,' and did not attempt to attack his
comrades. It was rather surprising to find even this amount
of honour amongst such unscrupulous creatures.

On the afternoon of the 5th we turned homewards, and
arrived on board just before dusk. Even in this short trip
of four days we had gained some experience. There were
evidently good reasons for not dividing the dogs into small
teams. We had learnt also to distinguish between the strong
and the weak, and, what was of more importance, the willing
and the lazy ; and we saw that we should require a good deal
of alteration in our harness and in some of the fittings of our
sledges.

For the few days which now intervened before my party
started for the south, I call on my diary once again :

'■September 5. — Armitage returned to-night with a party of
twelve. They have fetched in the depot which we left out last
year ; it was no use having provisions out at such a short

I902] PARTIES LEAVE THE SHIP 379

distance, but it is rather amusing to think that this deHberately
wipes out the only result of our autumn trip. This party
camped at the depot last night and dragged it right in to-day.
It is only about eight or nine miles, but I calculate they must
have been dragging nearly 280 lbs. per man, and they are all
terribly out of condition. As a result, when they arrived at
the ship they were positively cooked, and to-night they are
fighting their battles over again, and the conversation is highly
entertaining. They all agree that if sledging is always going
to be like this, there will be reason deeply to deplore the fact
that they ever left a comfortable home and came to sea.'

*■ Septcmhe7- 10. — Royds and Koettlitz started away to-day
v.ith Evans, Quartley, Lashly, and Wild. The party looked
very workmanlike, and one could see at a glance the vast im-
provement that has been made since last year. The sledges
were uniformly packed. Everything was in its right place and
ready to hand, and all looked neat and business-like. One
shudders now to think of the slovenly manner in which we
conducted things last autumn ; at any rate, here is a first result
of the care and attention of the winter.

'To-night it has been bright and clear, and we saw in
more perfect form a phenomenon which we have occasionally
witnessed before. High in the northern sky were some light,
wavy cirrus clouds, carrying the most perfect prismatic colour-
ing. They seemed like twisted fragments of a rainbow, and
were very beautiful against the pale blue sky; we watched
until the lights paled with the dying sun.'

' September 1 1 . — This morning Armitage left for the west.
He takes one other officer, Ferrar, and four men. Cross, Scott,
Walker, and Heald. The party introduced the novelty of
systematically pulling on ski, at which they have been practis-
ing lately, much to the amusement of the onlookers. There
is not much difficulty in the pulling after the first start ; the
great thing is to swing together and keep in perfect time. I
am inclined to reserve my opinion of the innovation. The
" Terror " trip may have proved their use in soft snow, but a
hard surface is a different matter. The men seem rather in

38o THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

their favour, but that is natural with any novelty, and however
this party may have got on later in the day, their starting pace
was very slow.

' I was thinking to-day as I looked up at our masts and
yards that my preconceived notion of a polar winter always
pictured them covered with snow, and perhaps with long icicles
depending ; as a matter of fact, they have been generally quite
free from snow, and throughout the long night nearly always
looked black and grim. But, curiously enough, this afternoon,
when ice-crystals were falling, they became frosted over, though
a strong wind was blowing ; and, oddly too, the wind seemed
to have quite a different note as it blew through the frosted

rigging-

'■September 12. — Hodgson has made quite a discovery ; he
finds that his ropes and nets whilst under water become coated
with ice-crystals. He tells me he noticed this fact some time
ago, and that the effect has been gradually growing, presumably
as the water has become colder. This morning I went out to
see some lines which he was hauling up. It is certainly a very
curious phenomenon, and one that is difficult to describe ;
one small line only an inch in circumference came up covered
with a cylinder of flaky ice nearly a foot in diameter, and this
cylinder extended five or six fathoms below the surface, after
which it gradually dwindled away. The formation is very
delicate, and in the flaky structure the axes of the leaves are
at right angles to the rope, whilst their planes are inclined and
intersect at the angle of crystallisation, 60°. The whole thing
looks like some beautiful lace fabric, and held up to the light
one can see through it the most gorgeous prismatic colouring.
It falls to pieces at a touch, and each leaf can be split to the
thinnest layers. Shackleton took some photographs and
Wilson attempted a sketch, but I doubt if either will produce
a picture which is anything like the delicate original.

' Somewhat similar crystals are formed on the tow-nets, but
here each minute fibre which stands out from the fabric has
formed a nucleus for the ice to form, and the net, with its
hanging icicles, looks like nothing so much as an old-time

I902] START ON SOUTHERN RECONNAISSANCE 381

candelabrum with crystal pendants. We do not know quite
how to account for these formations ; our thermometers show
the temperature of the water as something below its freezing-
point, but I do not know that they are very reliable for such
small differences. In any case, I do not know of this sort of
thing having been recorded elsewhere.'

It has been since explained that these crystals were prob-
ably due to the super-cooling of the sea, and that with the sea
in this condition ice will only form about such nuclei as were
afforded by the ropes and the nets, just as a supersaturated
solution can be made to crystallise in much the same manner
in a simple laboratory experiment. In this light it would be
natural enough that the effect should increase as the water
grew colder towards the spring, and it is interesting to note
that Hodgson found that at one time these crystals formed as
deep as seventeen fathoms below the surface.

Owing to some delay in making fresh harness for our dogs,
and in rearranging the manner of their pulling, followed by
the intervention of a most tantalising blizzard, it was not until
September 17 that I was able to make a start on the southern
reconnaissance journey. On the morning of that day we got
away fairly early, my two comrades being Barne and Shackleton.
We had with us only thirteen dogs, divided into two teams.
The sledges carried food for a fortnight for all concerned,
together with a quantity of stores to form a depot, the whole
giving a load of about 90 lbs. per dog. My diary for this
journey continues :

'Left the ship at 9 a.m., dogs at first pulling well. Bright
clear sky with sunshine, fluctuating temperature. Came to
the old ice-rise (about fifteen feet in height, four miles south
of the ship). 1.15, camped for lunch, having covered about
ten miles ; wind turned to east, very cold, thermometer -43°,
haze near surface and now slight wind-drift. Land mostly
obscured, but high points giving general direction. Dogs find
loads heavy, but pulling fairly well ; a few cases of sore feet ;
made good evolution of packing tent, and away again. Saw
magnificent parhelion showing prismatic colours on each side

382 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

from horizon to about 20" of altitude. About 3.30 observed
black specks far over the snow to the right front ; proved to
be Royds' party ; soon came up with them. Heard they had
had a very rough time, low temperatures with much wind.
They had found road to the S.W. quite impossible, strewn
with enormous boulders and all sorts of ice obstructions ; fail-
ing to pass to the north of Black Island, they had tried to the
south, but without much result. It was far too cold to stop
and discuss details. One gathers that there is no hope of
making a long journey in this direction, which is a nuisance ;
the rest must remain till we get back. After about twenty
minutes we parted, Royds steering for ship, mist still obscuring
land; head wind sprang up, very biting (temperature —45°),
frost-bites coming rather fast, dogs wearying. About 5.30
decided to camp, none too soon ; excellent supper ; have
turned my finneskoes inside out for sleeping in, to make trial of
this plan. Struggled into sleeping-bags about 7.30, where now
writing. Have travelled 12^ geographical miles (14J statute) ;
last temperature reading —48°, keen wind from S.E.'

From the above extract it will be seen that the sledging
diary gives a very laconic record of the day's events. It is
drafted somewhat after the fashion of a telegram, where each
word has to be considered — and, indeed, on such occasions,
if one does not pay in cash, one pays in kind for superfluous
verbiage. It is therefore from such a daily record as this that
the sledge-traveller is able to reconstruct the history of his
wanderings in very severe weather, though of course when the
temperatures rise and his hand is no longer paralysed with the
cold, he is inclined to amplify his sentences and enlarge on his
ideas.

But on this occasion with the above entry my sledge diaiy
comes to an abrupt conclusion, as, contrary to expectation, the
next time I took up my pen to write I was once more comfort-
ably seated in my cabin on board the ship.

' September 19. — ... I suppose it was our want of condi-
tion that made us all so very exhausted on Wednesday night
(17th), and that it was in consequence of this that we did not

1902] AN INOPPORTUNE BLIZZARD 383

heap enough snow on the skirting of our tent and that we
became so utterly unconscious of the change that was taking
place in the weather. At any rate, I remember nothing until
Thursday morning, when I woke up to find myself in the
open. At first, as I lifted the flap of my sleeping bag, I could
not think what had happened. I gazed forth on a white sheet
of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent or my companions.
For a moment I wondered what in the world it could mean,
but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly awoke me
to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in some extra-
ordinary way I had rolled out of the tent. A violent gale was
raging and the air was filled with thick, blinding snow. I
could only just make out the tent, though it was flapping
wildly across the foot of my bag ; it was evident that it still
stood upright, and that the sooner I was in its shelter the
better. I started to wriggle in, bag and all, and at length got
beneath it, and could see more clearly what had happened.
The bamboos were still secure and the skirting of the tent was
still held down on the weather side, but to leeward the snow
had been flung off it, and on this side the canvas was flapping
loosely, leaving an interval beneath through which I must have
rolled.

' I do not think this state of things can have obtained for
long, as Barne and Shackleton had only just realised it, but of
course by this time the snow was whirling as freely inside the
tent as without, our sleeping-bags were covered, and we our-
selves were powdered with it. The tent was straining so
madly at what remained of its securing that evidently some-
thing must be done at once to prevent its flying away
altogether. With freezing fingers we gripped the skirting and
gradually pulled it inwards, and, half sitting on it, half grasp-
ing it, endeavoured to hold it against the wild efforts of the
storm whilst we discussed ways and means. Discussion led us
nowhere ; to have attempted to secure the tent properly in
such weather would have been useless, even to venture outside
would be dangerous, whilst we felt that if we once let go it
might be good-bye to our tent.

384 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

'As we clung on in this horrid position the skirt would
gradually pull out beneath us and suddenly fly out, flapping
wildly again, and we were forced to get a fresh hold and lever
ourselves over it once more. Without exception this was the
most miserable day I have ever spent ; our sleeping-bags
became more and more snow-filled until we were lying in
masses of chilling slush ; our mits were filled in a similar
manner, the slippery canvas would pull through their grasp,
one was obliged to bare one's fingers to haul it in again, and
one could not possibly get through such a job without having
some of them frost-bitten.

'Thus we remained for hour after hour, grimly hanging on
and warning each other of frost-bitten features. We waited
longingly for a lull, but the first did not come until midday.
Then we made a desperate effort to get to the sledges ; my
companions ventured out whilst I clung to the canvas ; they
succeeded in getting hold of two provision bags, and returned
with a rush. Their absence was certainly not longer than two
minutes, yet both faces were quite white with frost-bite when
they came in, and it was several moments before they regained
their natural colour.

' In the afternoon we were beginning to feel a bit spent,
and realising that something more must be done, we waited
for a lull and again ventured out. This time we managed to
get hold of two heavy bags of biscuit. It was not until 6 p.m
that by continued exertions we had so far conquered matters
as to have no further need to hold the tent except with the
weight of our sleeping-bags, and for the first time our arms
were released for other purposes. An inspection of hands
showed that we had all been pretty badly frost-bitten, but the
worst was poor Barne, whose fingers have never recovered
from the accident of last year, when he so nearly lost them.
To have hung on to the tent through all those hours must have
been positive agony to him, yet he never uttered a word of
complaint.

* We were now able to wriggle down a little further into our
wretchedly wet bags and to eat some cold pemmican and

I902] RETURN TO THE SHIP 385

chocolate, whilst we waited for the storm to pass, with a grow-
ing stiffness in the backs of our necks from the never-ceasing
flap of the canvas against which we leaned. More miserable
conditions could scarce be imagined.

' Throughout the day we had not been able to spare a
thought for the dogs, but we imagined that they would long
ere this have been covered with snow, and therefore comfort-
able enough ; but about this time we heard a sad whimpering
at our door and found poor " Brownie," a very miserable
shivering object, whining piteously with cramp, so he was
allowed to pass the night inside, where he seemed to make
himself very happy, especially when he got some of our supper.
The rest never uttered a sound till we roused them out of their
soft nests on the following morning.

' As darkness descended on us again we lay in our hags
with the snow four inches thick on the floorcloth about us,
and our clothes becoming more and more saturated with
moisture ; but at seven o'clock the snow ceased to fall, at nine
the wind came in violent squalls, and at ten it was evident that
the worst of the storm was passed, Stiff and sore, we set
about making our position more comfortable, and then en-
deavoured to snatch a few hours' sleep.

' This morning we roused out at 3 a.m., cooked our first
meal for thirty hours, and briefly discussed the situation. Our
sleeping-bags and clothes were literally covered with ice, and
we could only push on under the most abject discomfort ; by
returning to the ship we should only lose one day's march and
everything could be dried afresh. We did not hesitate long
before deciding to return, and after a grand hot meal of cocoa
and pemmican we gradually collected our scattered belongings
and packed them on the sledges.

' As we started on the homeward march, the sun was rising
in great magnificence, lighting the east with brilliant red and
bathing the western hills in the softest pink. It was hard to
think that a gale had raged here but a few hours before.

' I think this must have been the coldest blizzard we have
had ; our minimum thermometer was drifted up with snow
VOL I. c c

386 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

and stood at —43°, but possibly this recorded a temperature
prior to the blizzard. Whilst it was blowing we could not
reach the thermometer, but judging by temperatures taken
elsewhere, and our own sensations, I do not think it could
have risen above — 30° throughout, which is most exceptional
with a strong wind. When we got up this morning the spirit
column stood below —50°, and Royds, five miles to the north,
recorded —53°. The effect of such a temperature on our wet
clothing may be imagined. I shall remember the condition
of my trousers for a long while ; they might have been cut out
of sheet iron. It was some time before I could walk with any
sort of ease, and even when we reached the ship I was con-
scious of carrying an armour plate behind me.

*So here we all are, back again, having accomplished
nothing except the acquisition of wisdom. It will certainly be
a very long time before I go to sleep again in a tent which is
not properly secured.

' Royds and his party weathered the gale five miles north
of us ; they had no trouble at all with their tent, thanks to
plenty of snow on the skirt. They have had a severe trip, but
are all pretty fit. It appears they came to very rough ground
to the north of Black Island, and advanced for some distance
by portage, but finding little improvement they turned back.
At one place a gust of wind swept one of their single sleeping-
bags away ; luckily, there was a three- man sleeping-bag, and
they managed to squeeze four people into that, but all four
agree that such a tight squeeze banished all chance of sleep.
Two days later they found the missing bag some four miles
from the spot at which it had been lost. Koettlitz thinks that
it will be quite possible to circumnavigate the Black Island in
spite of the rough ground, so I have given him permission
to try.

' I hear that the late gale was very severely felt in the ship :
the temperature fell to —32°, no work could be done outside
on Thursday, the stove pipes were bent, and heavy planks were
swept off the skid beams by the wind.'

' September 23. — . . . We are preparing to be off again,

1902] A FRESH START 387

but some fatality seems to ensure bad weather on the date
fixed for our departure. Barne's fingers suffered so severely
in our recent adventure that he has had to be replaced by the
boatswain, Feather. The latter has worked so splendidly all
through, and has taken such a keen interest in every detail of
the sledging, that I am glad to give him the chance of accom-
panying us.'

Early on September 24 we got away ; travelling with light
sledges, we reached our desolation camp, fifteen miles to the
south, before we called a halt, and, increasing our loads to full
weights, camped for the night at a distance of twenty-three
miles from the ship. On the following day we were forced to
face a bitter southerly wind with drift and a temperature of
— 30°. After a few miles the dogs refused duty, and we were
obliged to camp.

Proceeding later, when the wind had dropped somewhat,
we found ourselves climbing a stiff incline between the two
islands, and we had risen at least 180 feet before we reached
the top. Across the slope there ran two or three well-marked
cracks which I think can only have been tide cracks, and
which went to show that the ice-sheet over which we had been
travelling was afloat. On the other side of this crest there was
a slight descent, but not for much more than fifty feet, after
which the surface stretched horizontally ahead of us and was
undoubtedly at about the general level of the barrier. I came
to the conclusion that the two islands were joined, at least by
a shallow bank, if not by land above the water level, and that
the barrier sheet was over-riding this and pouring slowly into
the sea to the north.

On the 26th we had a beautifully clear day, and pushed on
towards the Bluff, which now loomed high above us. We were
much struck by the fact that all the wind-furrows in this region
lay in a south-westerly direction, showing that the prevalent
wind is from that quarter, although at the ship we had known
little but southeasterly winds. When we camped at the close
of this day, after a fifteen mile march, we were within a short
distance of the north side of the Bluff, and already there were

c c 2

388 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

signs of obstacles ahead. Here and there in the snow surface
rose a dome-shaped mound of blue ice, and beyond these we
could see little heaps of rubble. It behoved us to be cautious
if we would avoid injury to our sledge-runners.

The ice-mounds deserve notice ; they are a very typical
form of disturbance on the surface of any glacier, but are
probably rarely so well developed as we saw them. They are
caused by surface melting, the water freezing again below the
ice, when the expansion on regelation gradually lifts the surface.
To stand amongst a number of these domes is very impressive,
especially when they are uniformly rounded. They rise but a
short distance before they are cracked in all directions on top,
and the cracks gradually open into broad, deep fissures. We
found domes as high as seven and eight feet in this region,
and saw mounds which in attempting to rise further had lost
the dome form and stood up like irregular- shaped craters.
It was on the surface of one of these, far from the land, that
Mr. Ferrar found a large quantity of crystals of sodium or
magnesium sulphate. I am not chemist enough to suggest a
reason.

'■September 27.— Started with promise of a fine day, tem-
perature —46°. Soon after, the sky became overcast and the
temperature rose. The travelling changed altogether in char-
acter ; the ice-mounds grew thicker, and reached a height of
eight to ten feet, with broad, ugly cracks all over them. Later
they seemed to assemble in ridges running more or less east
and west, and hence right across our tracks ; the dogs could
make no show of crossing them, so we had to turn outwards
in hopes of getting better travelling. Instead of this it got
worse, and after lunch we passed into a turmoil of torn and
twisted ice, forming ranges of hillocks twenty and thirty feet
high, sometimes rounded on top and sometimes rising in sharp
ridges. The higher parts were swept clear of snow and showed
bare blue ice, whilst in the hollows the snow lay in high, hard
sastrugi ; the contrast was plain even in a bad light.

Travelling now became a regular scramble up hill and
down dale. The dogs did not appreciate it at all ; they

I902] DIFFICULT TRAVELLING 389

had to be helped up the stiff bits, and when the sledge
came skidding down the descents they almost howled with
terror. The wind has increased to half a gale from the
S.S.W., but it is astonishingly warm ; the temperature has risen
above zero, so we have built a good snow-wall to protect our
tents.

* September 28. — Awoke to find a gale with heavy drift, but
our tent very snug and comfortable. The temperature has
gone up to 4-7°, and our sleeping-bags are pleasantly warm
and comfortable. The most extraordinary thing is that in
spite of the flying snow outside our things are actually drying,
and for the first time in our experience we find ourselves in
a weather-bound camp becoming drier instead of wetter. Not
being at all cold, we find time to be bored, and, by ill-luck,
no one thought of bringing a book or a pack of cards ; but
who could suppose that it would be possible to use them
during a spring journey? We could really get on now but
for the light, but that is so bad that to move over this rough
country would be a great risk.

' September 29. — Wind dropped in night, and was succeeded
by flat calm with rapidly falling temperature. We were away
by 7 A.M., but shortly after a fresh bank of cloud came up
from the south, with more wind and drift. We were all too
impatient to stop again, so pushed on, myself leading, with
orders to the two teams to follow rigidly in my wake, in spite
of any turns and twists I might make.

'Notwithstanding the bad light I could see the bridged
crevasses where they ran across the bare ice surface by slight
differences in shade, and where they dived into the valleys,
though I could not see them, I found that the bridges were
strong enough to bear. I stuck as much as possible to the
snowy patches, but this necessitated a very irregular course,
and the dogs invariably tried to cut corners. In this manner
we proceeded for some time, but suddenly I heard a shout
behind, and, looking round, to my horror saw that the boat-
swain had disappeared; there stood the dog-team and sledges,
but no leader. I hurried back and saw that the trace

390 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

disappeared down a formidable crevasse, and to my relief the
boatswain was at the end of the trace.

' I soon hauled him up and inquired if he was hurt, to

which, being a man of few words, his only reply was, " D n

the dog ! " from which I gathered that " Nigger " had tried to
cut a corner and so pulled his leader at the wrong moment,
and, incidentally, that the boatswain wasn't much hurt. This
evening the boatswain has shown me his harness ; one strand
was cut clean through where it fell across the ice-edge. Alto-
gether he had a pretty close call.

'After this accident we joined our dog teams, and, loath
to give up the march, pushed on again. About half an hour
later there was another shout, and, looking round, I found
this time that it was not a man, but a sledge, that had dis-
appeared. It was the last of the four, and I found it hanging
vertically up and down in an ugly-looking chasm. To the
credit of our packing, although it had fallen with a jerk into
this uncomfortable position, not a single thing had come off.
It was too heavy for us to haul up as it was, so, after some
consultation, our indefatigable boatswain suggested that he
should be let down to unpack it. He was therefore slung
with one end of our Alpine rope, whilst the other was used
for hauling up the various packages. It must have been a
mighty cold job, but at last all the load was got up, and the
lightened sledge soon followed. After getting everything in
order again we found that we had sustained no greater damage
than a broken ski.

' After this incident we thought it would be wise to treat
these numerous crevasses with more respect, so on proceed-
ing we roped ourselves together, and whilst I went ahead
the boatswain led the dog-team and Shackleton brought
up the rear to look after things in general. But we had
not gone far like this when the light became thoroughly
bad ; we could see nothing at all under foot, and have
been obliged to camp early. The effect of this light on our
surroundings is very curious, making everything appear of
gigantic size ; the smallest wind-furrow looms up like a heavy

I902] DECEPTIVE LIGHT 391

bank, and the larger ice-hillocks look like ranges of high
mountains.'

Looking back on this day, I cannot but think our procedure
was extremely rash. I have not the least doubt now that this
region was a very dangerous one, and the fact that we essayed
to cross it in this light hearted fashion can only be ascribed to
our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there were not a few
occasions when one might have applied the proverb that
' Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.'

The bad light to which I have referred was a very constant
source of trouble to us on our travels. It came when the sky —
as was very usual — was completely overcast with a uniform pall
of stratus cloud ; under such a sky there would only be diffused
light, and no direct rays to cast a shadow. It can be easily
understood that on a snow surface the only thing that can
indicate an inequality is shadow ; consequently on these grey
days it was impossible, within limits, to see what was coming
next. Bad light does not, therefore, mean insufficiency of light,
because on such occasions one could see dark objects at a long
distance, and there was quite enough light both outside and
inside the tent for all camping purposes.

' September 29 (continued). — . . . After lunch the sun
peeped through the cloudy mantle, and with some difficulty
we managed to push out a mile or two, when the undulations
and upheavals of ice gradually disappeared, though the crevasses
remained. The broader ones were safe to cross, being filled
with snow, except at the edges, where a leg was likely to
disappear with a false step. This seems to show that they are
ever widening. The dangerous crevasses are those from three
to four feet in width, as they are covered only with light snow-
bridges, which, when broken away, disclose chasms between
perpendicular blue ice-walls of unknown depth. These walls
are crusted with branching growths of ice-crystals, very beautiful
in form, but which prevent one from seeing more than a few
fathoms down.

'To-night when we camped I warmed a thermometer, ran
up its indicator and lowered it at the end of our Alpine rope

392 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Sept.

to a depth of sixteen fathoms ; on hauling it up I found both
spirit and indicator stood at — to°, so I imagine this to be
about the mean temperature of the ice masses in this region.

' When we halted to-night our dog-trace lay across one of
these crevasses, and little " Kid " promptly coiled himself down
on the middle of the snow-bridge ; had he been allowed to
remain he would certainly have melted himself through in an
hour or two, and would have become a very surprised dog.
Luckily, we saw his position, and rescued him in time.'

'• Septeinber 30. — Starting at 7.15, and still steering east, we
soon passed out of the region of crevasses and turned to the
south. The weather was brilliant, the sun shone forth in a
cloudless sky, and the temperature was exceptionally high at
— 20°. At lunch we were about ten miles east of the extremity
of the Bluff, and the scene was very impressive. Far to the
north, clothed in soft white folds of snow, lay the imposing
mass of Erebus and Terror ; to the north- west towered Mount
Discovery and the Western Range, whilst behind us also lay
the various islands and foothills on which we have gazed
throughout the winter. To the west we could see that the
Bluff ended abruptly, being but a long peninsula thrust out
into the great ice-sheet. Beyond the Bluff our eyes rested
searchingly on the new country that rose above our snowy
horizon. It seemed to stretch in isolated masses ever increasing
in distance ; but beyond the fact that the coast curves sharply
away to the west we could make little of it.

* But the most impressive fact of all was that from this new
western land through the south, through the east, and away to
the slopes of Terror, there stretched an unbroken horizon line,
and as the eye ranged through this immense arc and met
nothing but the level snow-carpet below and the cloudless sky
above, one seemed to realise an almost limitless possibility to
the extent of the great snow-plain on which we travel.

' Hope of finding land beyond the Bluff to which we could
advance our depot was now at an end, and this afternoon we
steered south-west to close the Bluff and to look for landmarks.
An excellent line was at length suggested by Shackleton, who,

1902] RAPID RETURN 393

pointing to a small sharp crater on the end of the Bluff, proposed
that we should bring it in line with the sharp cone of Mount
Discovery. This was done, and to-night we are encamped on
the line and about five or six miles from the land. One has
but to walk a hundred yards either way to throw the alignment
off, so that there should be little difficulty in finding any stores
we may leave here provided the weather is clear. We have
just been gazing with curious eyes on the road to the south.
We have passed out of the region of high snow-furrows, and it
seems probable that even those which we have would be lost
as one advances to the south. One conceives a plain with the
surface growing smoother and possibly softer ; but what will it
be like to tramp on, day after day and week after week, over
such a plain ? '

' October i. — . . . We made our depot this morning, leaving
six weeks' provisions for our men and 150 lbs. of dog-food;
the whole was marked with a large black flag, and I took careful
angles with a prismatic compass to all the points I could see,
after which we packed up our traps and faced homewards.
The dogs knew at once what was meant, and there is no longer
any need to drive them. The weather has been overcast, with
a heavy deposition of snow-crystals ; but we have already
covered several miles on the homeward track, steering to pass
outside the White Island to see how the route promises in that
direction.'

On our homeward march we went for all we were worth ;
the weather was persistently overcast, but this kept the
temperature above —30° though it brought a continuous fall
of very light powdery snow to add to the friction of the runners.
Underneath this powdery snow the surface was in good condi-
tion, having been swept very hard with the wind, but the loose
crystals seemed to cling badly to the metal runners.

' October 3. — Got away at seven again ; mist as thick as a
hedge, so steered in towards the island ; stumbled on rocks at
about ten and gained some idea of position Evidently passing
over a slope succeeded by some ridges, a few crevasses, and
some clear blue ice. Guessed by this we must have passed

394 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

the corner of the island and steered for the ship. At 12.30
passed clear of broken surface, and camped for lunch at one
o'clock. After tea, cheese, and jam, prepared to start, and
found fog had lifted in rear showing island at our back. In
afternoon were able to steer by sun, though still very thick
ahead ; suddenly Erebus appeared above fog, and ten minutes
later we found ourselves within a mile of Observation Hill and
going directly for it. The tired dogs set up a yap of delight
and sprang forward with fresh energy, and soon we were home.

' We have covered eighty-five statute miles in less than
three days, whic;h is not bad going, especially as we have
almost had to feel our way along. However, there is no
longer a doubt that our road to the south should lie outside,
and not inside, the White Island.

' I did not realise that the ship could be such a delightful
place as I have found it to-night ; the sense of having done
what one wanted to do, and the knowledge that we have
a far clearer problem before us in the south, have much to
do with one's feelings of satisfaction, but it is the actual
physical comfort of everything that affects one most ; a bath
and a change into warm dry clothing have worked wonders.
The knowledge that one can sit at ease in warmth and
comfort, without being swathed to the chin in clothing, is an
immense relief, and the prospect of creeping into a bed
without the usual accompaniment of ice is an even greater
one ; but the greatest delight of all is to possess the sledging
appetite in the midst of plenty.'

The joy of this possession was beyond description, and
the feats of food-consumption which were performed by the
possessors might well be beyond ordinary belief. For many
days after we returned from our sledging trips we retained
a hunger which it seemed impossible to satisfy. The ordinary
frugal meals served at our table seemed to us to be heaven-
sent feasts ; at each meal one partook ravenously of everything,
and though one ate to repletion, half-an-hour later one would
be searching for bread and butter and chocolate. For the
first few days, when this sledging appetite was keenest, the

I902] SCURVY REPORTED 395

returned traveller would demand supper to succeed the more
solid dinner ; he would wake in the night to devour a stick
of chocolate or to forage for better fare in the pantry ; and
he could be seen glancing anxiously at the clock a full hour
before each meal. It seemed almost worth going a sledge
journey to experience the delight of satisfying such a hunger.

' October 3 {continued). — ... At dinner to-night I felt
especially pleased with myself and the world in general.
Armitage and Koettlitz had returned from their journeys, and
were able to give a rough outline of their movements, and
altogether our meal went very merrily ; nor was it till towards
the end that I had a suspicion that something was being
kept back : about one or two members there seemed to be
a sort of unnatural restraint, and I didn't know what to make
of it.

* So after dinner I called Armitage into my cabin and
asked him what was the trouble. He looked very grave and
said that he had not meant to worry me until the morning,
but the fact was there had been an outbreak of scurvy. This
was indeed a shock ! At one blow it upset all one's sense of
peace and comfort. Of course one could not allow it to rest
at that, so the whole story had to be told. It is not a pleasant
thing to go to bed on, and I do not feel like writing it
to-night ; possibly also things may look brighter in the
morning when one is not so "done."'

' October 4. — . . . The history of our outbreak of scurvy
is more or less contained in the history of Armitage's journey,
into which I have been therefore with some detail. It appears
that after leaving the ship on September 11, the party made
a pretty straight line for the end of the decayed glacier tongue
in the middle of the strait. Their progress was not very
rapid, as they stuck as closely as possible to the old worn ice
for the sake of safety. Even as it was, this course took them
within a mile of the open water. They reached the glacier
snout on the 13th, and camped securely on it. The ice
beyond the snout, and from thence to the westward, had
only recently been formed ; there was practically no snow on

396 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

it, and its dark colour was only relieved by the briny ice-
flowers.

'Apart from the danger of this ice being broken up again,
it was impossible to camp on it, as no snow could have been
obtained for cooking or for securing the tents ; the party were
obliged, therefore, to skirt the edge of older ice to the south,
and this added to the length of the journey. During this time
the open water was never far from them, and, besides
numerous seals and penguins, they constantly saw whales
(probably killer whales) spouting in the ofifing. On the night
of the T6th they camped on the slope of the foothills of the
mainland ; not far to the north of them was the New Harbour,
whilst immediately to the south was an immense pile of
morainic material which they have called the " Eskers."
This it is that looks like a small range of hills from the heights
above us and which we have often been puzzled to account
for.'

I should add that this formation was really an old lateral
moraine, and, as we soon discovered, it was quite wrongfully
called the Eskers, a name properly given to deposits formed
by glacial streams ; but a name once given is a very hard
thing to change, and after this first journey no one could be
brought to refer to this formation otherwise than as the
Eskers, and I have no doubt this name crops up many times
in my journal m spite of my knowledge of the error.

'On the 17th they hauled their sledges to a height of
500 feet up the snow-slope and pitched a camp there, with
the intention of making excursions from it. Since their start
from the ship the weather had been very changeable, and
they had experienced a great deal of wind with low tem-
peratures. On some days the wind had been so violent that
they had been forced to stop in their tents ; such a day was
the 1 8th, but on the 19th five of the party left the camp and
crossed the long snow-slope which bounds our view on the
south side of New Harbour. From this they could get a
good view of the valley beyond, and saw that it cut deeply
into the mountain range and contained a huge glacier.

1902] EXPERIENCES OF WESTERN PARTY 397

Looking up the valley, they were faced by a high single-
peaked mountain, and the glacier appeared to turn to the
right as it reached its foot. As far as the upper parts of the
glacier were concerned, there appeared to be good travelling,
but from the foot of the descent, for some seven miles
outwards, they looked down upon a confusion of ice which
they had never seen equalled. Armitage describes huge
masses broken and fissured and standing nearly fifty feet
above the general level. Interspersed with the ice are vast
heaps of morainic material, and the whole forms a chaotic
obstruction across which he thinks it is impossible that
sledges can be taken.

' Skirting along this rough disturbance they advanced up the
valley, but it was now getting towards midnight and some of
the party were beginning to tire from the long exposure. Mr.
Ferrar and Heald had been sent back some hours before, and
now the remaining two turned also. Armitage says that on
his return he came across the tracks of two people, which he
followed, expecting them to lead to the camp, but later dis-
covering that they certainly did not he became very alarmed,
thinking that Ferrar and Heald had missed their way. Still
following these tracks, he now and again came across a mark
in the snow as though one of the two had been obliged to
take frequent rests. At last, to his relief, the tracks suddenly
turned about and now led directly towards the camp, which he
eventually reached at 5 a.m., after an absence of twenty hours.

' He found that Ferrar and Heald had made the tracks he
had seen, and that by losing their way they had been three
hours late in arriving back ; furthermore, that on the way
Ferrar had collapsed several times and on each occasion had
been overcome by an irresistible desire to sleep. He was only
kept awake by the persistence of his companion, Heald, who,
although almost worn out himself, realised the danger they
were running and showed the greatest determination in pushing
on. As the temperature at the time was —45°, there seems
litttle doubt that Ferrar practically owes his life to his com-
panion's exertions.

398 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

' Hoping to find out more about the New Harbour glacier,
on the 2ist they dragged their sledges over a rise of i,ooo feet
towards its entrance. They had great difficulty with the steep
descents, but eventually made their way down safely. A
second examination of this region did not give any more
promising results than the first, and Armitage came to the
conclusion that to attempt to reach the mainland by this route
was impracticable. On the 22nd they started their homeward
journey, skirting now around the base of the long snow-slope
on recently formed sea-ice. It was about this time that, in
cogitating over recent events in the journey, Armitage began to
suspect that there was something wrong with the health of the
party. Several men had complained of sprains and bruises
which seemed to give pain without much cause ; he thought,
too, that they tired more easily than strong men should have
done, and it seemed especially curious that such an active
officer as Ferrar should have collapsed under a hard day's
work. The thought of scurvy, however, did not enter the
leader's head, and he was inclined to put the troubles down to
the horrible weather conditions and to the fact that so few of
them had been able to sleep.

' As the party gradually made their way back to the ship,
things got worse and his alarm grew. The light sledges hung
heavily on the men, and though there were no complaints,
several seemed only to keep themselves going with an effort.
The evening of the 25th found them within a few miles of the
ship, and in such a crippled state that Armitage thought it
wiser to struggle right on till they reached her, which they did
at 6 A.M. on the 26th.

' The result of Wilson's medical examination of this party
on their return has been handed to me ; the gist of it is that
Heald, Mr. Ferrar and Cross have very badly swollen legs,
whilst Heald's are discoloured as well. Heald and Cross have
also swollen and spongy gums. The remainder of the party
seem fairly well, but not above suspicion ; Walker's ankles
are slightly swollen.

' Of course there is no good blinking our eyes to the fact

1902] REMEDIAL MEASURES 399

that this is neither more nor less than scurvy, but whence it
has come, or why it has come with all the precautions that
have been taken, is beyond our abihty to explain. The evil
having come, the great thing now is to banish it. In my
absence, Armitage, in consultation with the doctors, has
already taken steps to remedy matters by serving out fresh
meat regularly and by increasing the allowance of bottled
fruits, and he has done an even greater service by taking the
cook in hand. I don't know whether he threatened to hang
him at the yardarm or used more persuasive measures, but,
whatever it was, there is a marked improvement in the
cooking.

' Koettlitz has only been back a few days from his second
trip, but has made an examination of everyone on board. He
tells me there are signs of scurvy in a good many, but in most
cases it is only the merest indication, and probably we should
not have known anything about it had it not been for this
searching examination. The worst cases are those which I
have named above, and they, as well as the rest, are improving
by leaps and bounds — in fact the disease is vanishing rapidly.
He confesses himself unable to suggest any cause for the
outbreak.

' The signs of improvement are hopeful, and there
seems little doubt that we shall banish the disease ; but one
cannot be too cautious, and we must lay ourselves out to make
arrangements which will not only banish it for the present,
but will prevent all chance of its recurrence in the future.

' Royds was to have started for the " Record " at Cape
Crozier on the 2nd, but deferred his departure till my return.
I saw no reason for delaying further, and the doctors report
his party to be in first-rate condition, so they went off this
morning. With the leader go Skelton, Lashly, Evans,
Quartley, and Wild — practically the same party that went to
the south-west, so they ought to know what they are up to.
Though there is not much else but scurvy in my thoughts just
at present, the great thing is to pretend that there is nothing to
be alarmed at.'

400 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

' October i5.^The determination to have everything above
suspicion, and not to give our dread enemy another chance to
break out, has kept all hands pretty busy of late.

'With the idea of giving everyone on the mess-deck a
change of air in turn, we have built up a space in the main hut
by packing cases around the stove. In this space each mess
are to live for a week ; they have breakfast and dinner on
board, but are allowed to cook their supper in the hut. The
present occupants enjoy this sort of picnic-life immensely.

' We have had a thorough clearance of the holds, dis-
infected the bilges, whitewashed the sides, and generally made
them sweet and clean.

' As a next step I tackled the clothes and hammocks. One
knows how easily garments collect, and especially under such
conditions as ours ; however, they have all been cleared out
now, except those actually in use. The hammocks and
bedding I found quite dry and comfortable, but we have had
them all thoroughly aired. We have cleared all the deck-lights
so as to get more daylight below, and we have scrubbed the
decks and cleaned out all the holes and corners until every-
thing is as clean as a new pin. I am bound to confess there
was no very radical change in all this ; we found very little
dirt, and our outbreak cannot possibly have come from in-
sanitary conditions of living ; our men are far too much alive
to their own comfort for that. But now we do everything for
the safe side, and from the conviction that one cannot be too
careful.

' We have had great difficulties in trying to live on fresh
meat alone, as our stock of seal-meat had run short. It is not
easy to supply so large a company ; a large seal barely lasts
two days at the present rate of consumption. Just as our
stock ran out, one or two seals happened to come up on the
ice close to the ship, and these kept us going until, at W^ilson's
suggestion, we organised a large seal-killing party to go further
afield. This party, consisting of Barne, Wilson, and four
men, girt about with knives and other murderous implements,
journeyed away to the norlli with all the^dogs on Thursday (9th) ;

I902] SUBSIDENCE OF THE OUTBREAK 401

they camped under the glacier tongue, weathered a bhzzard on
the following day, and started their operations on Saturday.
After a long and hard day's work, they started homewards,
and arrived here on Sunday morning with over a thousand
pounds of meat, and having left a large quantity ready to be
brought in.

' They report that the seals are plentiful near the glacier,
and that there is also a colony below Castle Rock, not more
than three miles from the ship ; we ought to have little trouble,
therefore, in keeping up our supply in future,

' On Monday I was able to give the satisfactory order that
no tinned meat of any description should be issued, and one
may reasonably hope that this order can be observed through-
out the remainder of our stay in these regions.

' Regular outdoor exercise is the only other circumstance
that can affect our physical well-being, and with regard to that
I am glad to say there has been no need to issue an order.
There is a great deal of outdoor work, and every evening after
tea the men either go for long ski runs or walks, or play foot-
ball. As for the spirits of our party, they have never been
cast down for a single minute ; with the daylight and the in-
creased activity there has been more chaff and laughter than
ever, and certainly no one who walked into the living-quarters
at night would guess that we were in the act of dispelling a
very dreaded disease. To whichever or to what combination
of the steps we have taken this is due, it is impossible to say,
but the fact remains that within a fortnight of the outbreak
there is scarcely a sign of it remaining, and certainly all cause
for anxiety has vanished. Heald's is the only case that hung
at all, and since fomentations have been applied to his legs he
also has made rapid strides towards recovery, and is now
able to get about once more. Cross's recovery was so rapid
that he was able to join the seal-killing party last week.

' Koettlitz has taken advantage of the returning daylight to
grow a crop of mustard and cress. He has raised some on
flannel, and with chemicals, but the best result has been
obtained from our own Antarctic soil, which is evidently most

VOL. I. D D

402 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

productive. The wardroom skylight does not make a very
large garden, but enough cress has been produced for one good
feed for all hands.'

' October 19. — The weather conditions have not been too
favourable to our changes, though of course they have not
delayed the return of full daylight, which has the most cheering
effect. On the 12th commenced one of the thickest and
longest blizzards we have yet had. Except for a calm interval
of six hours on the 13th, the snow was whirling about us con-
tinually till midday on the i6th. The wind as usual commenced
in the south and gradually worked round to the east, and the
temperature rose at one time to + 2°. This blizzard seems to
have cleared the air for the time, as the weather since has been
bright and clear, and we have had the most gorgeous light
effects.

' On Saturday night between ten and eleven we witnessed
an especially curious sight. The sun was behind Mount
Discovery, and cast a clear shadow of its cone on a bank of
cirro-stratus cloud on the near side. This effect was very
curious ; there appeared to be a clearly defined inverted cone
superimposed on the top of the mountain.'

' October 20.-— I think it may safely be said that our scurvy
is at an end, and unless it is produced again in the sledge
parties we shall hear no more of it. 1 do not think the milder
conditions of the future sledging season are likely to reproduce
it, but so as to avoid the risk I have been arranging to replace
the pemmican by a proportion of cooked seal-meat. The
difficulty here is to get it free from water, and the only way is
to cook it again and again, but with all our efforts I doubt
whether we shall get quite the same value for weight as we do
in the pemmican.'

It may be of interest here to quote the result of some of
our experiments in this line, though, of course, they rest on
estimation, as we had no facilities for chemical analysis.

We took 140 lbs. of seal-meat, and cooked it in 20 lbs. of
margarine, producing as a result 60 lbs. of cooked meal ; or,
in other words, we evaporated off a little under two-thirds of

1902] FOOD- VALUE OF SEAL- MEAT 403

the original weight. Raw meat contains about 75 per cent, of
moisture, and we estimated our margarine to contain about 20
per cent. ; so speaking very roughly, something under three-
quarters of the original weight of our seal and margarine was
water.

Again very roughly, therefore, in the cooked meat which
remained there was water equal to about a twelfth of its
original weight, or about a fourth of its present weight. We
estimated that we eventually reduced this moisture to 20 per
cent., and in this state we calculated that 12 lbs. of seal-meat
was equal to 10 lbs. of pemmican.

' October 20 {continued). — . . . We have come to the end
of our fresh mutton, except a small quantity kept for possible
sickness ; this makes a difference to Sunday, but our seal-meat
is now so well served that the loss is not greatly felt. In this
matter of seal-meat there has been an extraordinary change
throughout the ship. There is no getting over the fact that
none of us really enjoyed the seal in the winter, and when
tinned meat was stopped there were not a few downcast faces ;
but within a fortnight all that has been altered : everyone now
eats the seal with relish, and I do not think there is a single
man who would go back to tinned meat, even if he had the
chance. The consumption is so great that we have all our work
to keep up the supply, and appetites seem to be increasing
rather than lessening. Somewhere in this, but not wholly
revealed, lies the root of our scurvy trouble ; one would fain
be able to trace it more clearly.'

In the extracts which I have given from my diary it is
possible to trace the history of our scurvy from its outbreak to
the time when it vanished from amongst us, but they show
also that we were in the unsatisfactory state of being unable to
trace the cause of the evil, and in that state we still remain,
for amongst ihe various circumstances of our daily life we can
find none that definitely contributed to it. The surprise
which this unpleasant discovery brought us has not been
lessened by time. We are still unconscious of any element in
our surroundings which might have fostered the disease, or of

i> D 2

404 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

the neglect of any precaution which modern medical science
suggests for its prevention.

It is well known that scurvy is a world-wide disease, and
that, whilst it has attacked all sorts and conditions of men, it
has proved an especial scourge to those who, by force of
circumstances, have been deprived of fresh food for any length
of time. This last has been so often the lot of the polar
traveller that the disease has played a particularly important,
and often a tragic, part in his enterprises, and one cannot read
the history of polar adventure without realising the gravity of
the evil and the urgency of precautionary measures. It was
natural, therefore, that this subject should have been one of
the first to be considered by one, like myself, on whom fell the
responsibility of equipping an expedition for Antarctic research,
and I felt at once that, however efficient might be the medical
staff, it was highly desirable that I also should know some-
thing of it. Needless to say, I could only approach the matter
as a layman, and therefore it is only in that capacity that I
offer the following remarks, though I had the advantage of
excellent medical advice in forming my opinions.

The symptoms of scurvy do not necessarily occur in a
regular order, but generally the first sign is an inflamed,
swollen condition of the gums. The whitish pink tinge next
the teeth is replaced by an angry red ; as the disease gains
ground the gums become more spongy and turn to a purplish
colour, the teeth become loose and the gums sore. Spots
appear on the legs, and pain is felt in old wounds and bruises;
later, from a slight oedema, the legs, and then the arms, swell
to a great size and become blackened behind the joints. After
this the patient is soon incapacitated, and the last horrible
stages of the disease set in, from which death is a merciful
release. Curiously enough, I believe that the appetite is
rarely lost even towards the end, and the rapidity with
which the disease spreads is excelled by the rapidity of
recovery if circumstances allow the proper remedies to be
applied.

For centuries, and until quite recently, it was believed that

I902] REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF SCURVY 405

the antidote to scurvy lay in vegetable acids ; scurvy grass was
sought by the older voyagers, and finally lime-juice was made,
and remains, a legal necessity for ships travelling on the high
seas. Behind this belief lies a vast amount of evidence, but a
full consideration of this evidence is beset with immense
difficulties. For instance, although it is an undoubted fact
that with the introduction of lime-juice scurvy was largely
diminished, yet it is apt to be forgotten that there were other
causes which might have contributed to this result ; for at the
same time sea voyages were being largely reduced by steam
power, and owners were forced to provide much better food
for their men.

It is beyond the scope of these pages to deal with such
evidence, and it is sufficient to remark that modern medical
thought finds it inconclusive, taking the view that the only
antidote to scurvy is to banish its cause. Thus put, it is easy
to see that many cures might have been attributed to the
virtues of a supposed antidote which were really due to a dis-
continuance of the article of food that caused the disease.

I understand that scurvy is now believed to be ptomaine
poisoning, caused by the virus of the bacterium of decay in
meat, and, in plain language, as long as a man continues to
assimilate this poison he is bound to get worse, and when he
ceases to add to the quantity taken the system tends to throw
it off, and the patient recovers. The practical point, there-
fore, is to obtain meat which does not contain this poison, and
herein lies the whole difficulty of the case, for danger lurks
everywhere. Tainted fresh meat may be virulent, but in the
ordinary course of events one eats it rarely and so is saved
from any disastrous result. The risk of a taint in tinned meat
is greater because of the process involved in its manufacture,
and with salt meat the risk is greater still for the same reason.
To what extent meat must be tainted to produce scurvy is
unknown, but there is reason to suppose that the taint can be
so slight as to escape the notice of one's senses; in other
words, poison may lurk in a tin of meat which to the sight,
taste, and smell appears to be in perfect condition. Such a

4o6 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

supposition alone shows the difficulty of tracing an outbreak of
the disease to its exact source.

It is important to lay stress on the foregoing remarks
because it is very commonly thought that unwholesome
tinned meat can be detected at once by the proportion of
tins that are ' blown.' Such a test must, of course, be a good
rough guide as between good and bad, but it does not achieve
the delicacy necessary to detect food which may cause scurvy.
As having achieved an unsurpassed feat in the prevention of
scurvy, Dr. Nansen may well be taken as an authority in this
matter ; and more or less to this point he relates a story
where a party of men found a depot of provisions, selected
the best tins, ate of them, and got scurvy; his comment is
that they would have done better to have selected the worst
tins.

On the many points of importance with regard to the
selection of tinned provisions I am not able to dwell— it is
sufficient to show that the question is more complicated than
appears at first sight ; and, further, it must be remembered
that there is no service where excellence is demanded so fully
as on polar service. The ordinary traveller may be obliged to
subsist on tinned food for weeks or months, but the polar
voyager may be forced to extend these periods to months and
years.

One great practical certainty arises, however, out of this
complicated problem : one cannot be too careful ; without
being able to ensure perfection in one's tinned provisions,
one can go a long way towards it by very careful selection
and by preparing with all the safeguards which modern science
can suggest. Such a preparation requires time, and therefore
it becomes still more evident that ample time should be allowed
for the equipment of a polar expedition.

With these few general remarks I would briefly trace the
history of such circumstances as may have led to the outbreak
of scurvy in the ' Discovery.' I commence by giving some
account of the provisions which we carried. Owing to facts
which can be well understood from the shortness of time at

I902] POSSIBLE CAUSES OF OUR OUTBREAK 407

our disposal, it was not until the spring of 1901 that our pro-
vision list was finally drawn up and the necessary orders
given ; the orders were distributed over a large number of
firms, and deliveries were directed to be made to the East
India Docks, where a shed had been placed at our disposal.
At the same time, by the courtesy of the Health Office of the
City of London, it was arranged that all the tinned food
collected in the shed should be examined by one of their
officials before it was transmitted to the ' Discovery.' The
examination showed that, as far as could be seen, everything
was of good quality with the exception of one delivery, and it
became a question whether we should reject the whole of this
delivery and seek a fresh contractor, or whether we should
reject only the portion that was unsatisfactory and demand
its renewal. Urgency decided in favour of the latter alter-
native. It must be understood that the food supplied after
this rejection, and indeed all the food that actually sailed in
the ' Discovery,' was examined, but such an examination has
obvious limitations. The suspicious circumstance was that
anything ordered for the ' Discovery ' should have been un-
satisfactory, and the inference was that if there were short-
comings in this delivery which the examination could detect,
there would probably be others which it could not.

On our arrival in New Zealand we shipped a large addition
to our stock of tinned food, some on a consignment from
Australia, and some on purchase in the colony itself; both
deliveries were excellent as far as we had any power of
judging.

I have already given some idea of our routine in winter
quarters with regard to meals. It will be recalled that we had
seal-meat twice a week, mutton once, and tinned meat on the
remaining days ; the problem is, which of these gave us the
scurvy ?

As regards the seal-meat, I think we may at once reject
the idea. The animals had to be skinned immediately after
they were killed, and carcases were thus frozen within a very
short space of time.

4o8 THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [Oct.

The mutton is more doubtful. It was killed inside the
Antarctic circle, but I am not sure that the meat was wholly
above suspicion of taint ; as the sun may have raised the
darker portions of the carcases above the freezing-point ; but
it is to be remembered that though we ate very heartily of it,
we only enjoyed this luxury once a week.

The grave suspicion naturally rests on the tinned meats,
and therefore it becomes necessary to examine a little more
closely into them. In nine cases out of ten our sohd food on
ordinary ' tinned meat ' days consisted of plain tinned beef or
mutton made up into some dish on board. It was the rarest
thing for us to open tins containing made-up dishes, mainly
because these were part of the consignment which I mentioned
as being unsatisfactory. Without exception the plain beef and
mutton came from Australian and New Zealand firms, and
I have no doubt that it was as good as such things can be ;
the excellent state of preservation of that which we brought
back is alone sufficient to prove this. I cannot think, there-
fore, that we have a right to suspect these tinned meats. In
considering all facts in connection with this elusive disease, it
must not be forgotten also that we regularly opened tins of
milk and less regularly other ' kickshaws ' in which it may have
been hidden ; but as we continued this practice during our
second winter, without ill result, it is reasonable to consider
that its effect may be discounted.

The main fact, however, that makes it so difficult to trace
our scurvy to faulty provisions is that not a single tin of any
sort or description was served out in the ' Discovery ' until
it had been opened and examined by one of the doctors, and
in this respect no risks were taken. The least suspicion was
sufficient to ensure rejection, and therefore it is certain that
no food which bore any outward sign of being unsafe was ever
consumed in the ship.

It has been pointed out that scurvy depends largely on
environment, and there can be no doubt that severe or in-
sanitary conditions of life contribute to the ravages of the
disease. Indeed, we saw how this might be from the outbreak

I902] UNCERTAINTY OF ORIGIN 409

in our western party, but I do not think such conditions can
be regarded as the prime cause.

In summing up this brief survey of our outbreak of scurvy,
I may point out that the evidence shows it was caused by
the food the discontinuance of which led to recovery, and
that this food consisted of tinned meats which were to all
appearances of the best quality, and of apparently fresh
mutton taken in small quantity. Beyond this it seems impos-
sible to go, and consequently, as far as the investigation of
the disease is concerned, we are left in an unsatisfactory
position of doubt.

Our scurvy came to us as a great surprise. Fully alive to
the danger of the disease, we seemed to have taken every pre-
caution that the experience of others could suggest, and when
the end of our long winter found everyone in apparently good
health and high spirits, we naturally congratulated ourselves
on the efficacy of our measures. How rudely we were awakened
from this pleasing attitude I have shown, and, though the
disease was banished with astonishing rapidity, the incident
could not fail to leave an impression that in some manner we
had been unwittingly culpable. Quite apart from the benefit
lost to medical science, therefore, it was extremely grievous
that, for our own personal satisfaction, we could not put
our finger on the spot, and definitely state whence the evil
sprang.

Yet, inconclusive as our experience was, it serves to em-
phasise the lessons taught by former experiences. It shows
that too much care and attention cannot be paid to the pro-
visioning of a polar expedition ; it indicates that in this con-
nection the ordinary methods of food examination are not
sufficiently refined, but should be supplemented by chemical
analyses and every test that modern science can suggest ; and
it again points clearly to the inestimable advantage of fresh
food.

In this last respect there lies the most invaluable safeguard
for the welfare of future Antarctic expeditions ; it seems evi-
dent that the whole circle of the Antarctic seas is abundantly

4IO THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY' [1902

provided with animal life. It is not conceiv..ble, therefore,
that any party wintering in the Antarctic Regions will have
great difficulty in providing themselves with fresh food ; and,
as we have proved, where such conditions exist there need be
no fear of the dreaded word ' scurvy.'

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