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CAPTAIN PORTLOCK.
[ituibedl June 30.1789, by I-Stochdale @, G Golding
re Pog
A
VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD;
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA:
PERFORMED IN 1785, 1786, 1787, anD 1788,
IN
THE KING GEORGE AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE,
CAPTAINS PORTLOCK anp DIXON,
EMBELLISHED WITH TWENTY COPPER=-PLATES.
‘ 4
DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO
Hil 6) M A, } H SUL {y.
By CAPTAIN NATHANIEL PORTLOCK.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, OPPOSITE BURLINGTON-HOUSE, PICCADILLY$
AND GEORGE GOULDING, JAMES STREET, COVENT GARDEN,
4
M,DCC,LXXxIXx.
AR te
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aki avian WOE £OT ase
cM EVO SO AOR: Oia oi
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TO THE
SIR,
ihe has been the invariable obje&t of your
Majefty’s reign to enrich your people, by
inciting their induftry; to refine them, by
encouraging the arts; to enlighten them, by
the cultivation of fcience; and to fecure their
enjoyments, by ftrengthening the conftitution.
BuT to a people, whofe renown and whofe
fafety are derived from their fhipping and
A 2," navigators,
DEDTICQATION.
navigators, the voyages of difcovery, which your
Majefty fucceflively projected and atchieved,
may be regarded as ftill more ufeful to your
fubjects, and beneficial to mankind. Englith
feamen have been always celebrated for their
bravery : your Majefty has, by thofe voyages,
made them more {kilful. ‘They have ever been
adventurous ; but your Majefty has, by this
wife policy, made them more fafe. Englifh
failors would at all times undertake and per-
form, on every fea, what mortals could exe-
cute: your Majefty has taught them by thofe
falutary trials how to preferve their health in
every climate. Yet, whatever glory and be-
nefit have been thus derived to Great Britain,
your Majefty’s difintereftednefs hath imparted,
with a generous philanthropy, to every nation.
Ir was to thofe voyages (may I be permitted ~
to add?) that I owe the perfect health, the
perfeverance, and the fkill, however incon-
fiderable, which enabled me to condu& the
adventure
a)
Fh
DEDIGAT LON.
adventure that is recounted in the following
fheets. But it was your Majefty’s beneficence,
which, at all times has. ftudioufly. noticed the
humbleft merit, that allowed me the honour
of dedicating this narrative to your Majefty,
as a tribute of the unalterable gratitude and
profound fubmiffion, with which I fhall continue
through life,
Your Majesty's
moft faithful Subjea,
and moft dutiful Servant,
Lonpon,
April 19, 1789. ~
NATHANIEL PORTLOCK.
_ Diredtions to the BINDER for placing the CUTS.
Head of Captain PoRTLOcK - = To face the Title Page
General Chart - = ~ - - Page 1
Views of Bonavifta, &c. -~ = ~ wee 14
Yellow-winged Bunting - > - « ay
Rufty-crowned Plover, Male ~ 36
Ditto, ditto, Female (the Bird looking ov over its Back) - = a7
Cinereous Lark = ~ UD
Graham’s Harbour = = - - ~ 102
View in Coal Harbour - - - - - 108
Bafket and ‘God - ~ = . - 176
Sketch of M‘Leod’s Harbour - - = 206
Sketch of Weft Side of Montague Mand - n. 2E
Sketch of Port Etches - - - - 226
Portlock’s and Goulding’s Harbour - “ - 258
View in Goulding’s Harbour. « = - - 270
View in Portlock’s Harbour - - - - 280
Knives and Comb - * - = - 294
White Tern Ba IS pears eager eden ty A i 312
View in Sapan = ~ - - = 317
Head of Tyaana = “ - = ™ 359
C-HoAP.2? IS
SHO RT Account of the different Perfons who have engaged in the
Fur Trade—The King George’s Sound Company eftablifhed—Two
Veflels purchafed—The Complements of their Crews, and Names:
of the Officers—Paflage from Gravefend to Portfmouth—In danger
off the Cafkets—Arrival of the Ships at Guernfey,. Page §
CH ALP Yi
Various Refrefhments procured at Guernfey—Leave that Place, and
proceed on the Voyage—Remarkable Rock at the Eaft End: of
Madeira—Send Difpatches from thence—Bonavifta—Mayo—Sal—
Arrival at Saint Jago—Occurrences there—Refrefhments to be met
with—Departure from thence—Precautions again{ft the Rain and
fultry Weather near the Equator—Fortunate Prefervation of a Boy
who fell..over-board—Pafs a vaft Quantity of Shrimp Spawn—Ar-
rival at Port Egmont—Falkland’s Iflands, = > Io
GoEL AP. 1 TT.
Various Employments in Port Egmont—Ruins of a Town difcovered—
' Meet with two Ships employed in the Oil Trade—Method of ex-
trating Oil from the Blubber of the Sea Elephant—Several Birds
defcribed—Refrefhments obtained there—Leave Port Egmont and:
proceed to States Bay—Difference between the Sea Elephant and
Sea Lion pointed out—Remains of a Wreck difcovered—Depart
from Falkland’s [lands and proceed on the Voyage—Staten’s Land—
LE Stormy
Vill
GeO aN FL te Fae:
Stormy Weather in doubling Cape Horn—Pick up a Number of
Turtle—Fruitlefs Search for Los Majos—Arrive in Sight of
Owhyhee, _ - ° - Page 30
GUE AUPE VIN:
Range along the Coaft of Owhyhee—Arrival in Karakakooa Bay—
Unruly Behaviour of the Natives—Leave Karakakooa Bay—Re-
frefhments procured along th¢! Coaft—-Difappointed in coming to
anchor at Morotoi—Arrival at Woahoo—Fruitlefs ‘Search for a
Watering-place—Supplied with Water by’ the Natives—Refreth-
ments obtained—Departure from Woahoo—Account of the prefent
Government among the Sandwich Iflands—Pafs Atoni— Arrival at
Oneechow—Tranfactions there, - - - 60
CG HAP, V.
Continuation of Tranfa€tions at Oneehow—Method of falting Pork
in tropical Climates— Departure from Oneehow—-Method of brew-
ing the. fweet Root—Arrive in fight of the Coaft of America—
Stand- on for Cook’s River—Meet with fome Ruffian Settlers—
Arrival in Cook’s River—Vifited by the Ruffian Chief—Anchor. in
Coal Harbour— Various) Employments there—Abundance of Sal-
mon—Vifit the Ruffian Settlkement—Their Mode of Living de-
fcribed—Proceed further up the River, - 2 86
Gt ACeS VE.
Indians come to the Ships: with: Furs—Shew a Difpofition for thiev-
ing—Bring Salmon to barter—Short Defcription of the Country
near Trading Bay—Climate—Produce—The Ships leave Trading
Bay, and proceed down the River—Requefted by the Indians. to
join with them againft the Ruffians—Prefents given at parting—
Leave Cook’s River, and proceed for Prince William’s Sound—Pre-
vented from making it by bad Weather—Proceed along the Coaft—
Difappointed in meeting with Crofs Sound, - = 112
1
CH A:
GC ON oF Ee WN «Ts,
CoH A LP. Vad.
Fruitlefs Attempt to fall in with the Bay of Iflands—Proceed along the
Coaft towards King George’s Sound—Unfuccefsful Attempt to make
it—Paflage from the Coaft of America to Sandwich Iflands—Saint
Maria la Gorta—Arrival off Owhyhee—Refrefhments obtained—
Plan of future Proceedings—Departure from Owhyhee—Pick up a
Canoe with fome Indians in Diftrefs—-Anchor at Woahoo, Page 132
CHAP. WIE
Vifited by Taheeterre—Pernicious Effects of the Yava-root—Tranf-
actions at Woahoo—Wood purchafed—An Eatooa ereéted—The
Chiefs make offerings to their Deities—Meditate an Attack on
the Ships—The King fhewn the Effe@. of Fire-arms—Two In-
dians embark for Atoui—Take leave of Taheeterre and the Prieft—
Departure from Woahoo—Anchor in Wymoa Bay, Atoui—Ex-
curfion on Shore, - -. = ESA.
CHAP. TX
Variety of Refrefhments procured—Vifited by the King—Prefents
given and received—Two Natives from Woahco introduced to
Ta-aao—Deplorable Situation of an old Warrior—Ceremony of
the Tabooara—Excurfion on» Shore, accompanied by Abbenooe—
A remarkably large Shark caught—Grateful Behaviour of Nee--
heowhooa—Arrival at Oneehow—Obliged to cut the Cables in a
Gale of Wind—Leave three Invalids on Shore—Anchor again in.
Yam Bay—The Sick return on board—Leave Oneehow and arrive
at Atoui—Remarkable Circumftance of a Woman with a Puppy at
her Breaft—Chiefs exercife with Spears—Houfe built for Captain-
Portlock—Departure from Atoui—Arrival at Oneehow—Recover
the King George’s Anchors—Attempt made on the Life of an
Atoui Chief—Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands, 174
as Gre A
¢C.0.N.T.E. MN Bas
C EA Pees.
Paffage from the Sandwich Iflands to the Coaft of America—Good
Effe@ts of Beer made from the Sweet Root—Arrival at Montague
Iland—Anchor in Hanning’s Bay—Boats fent on a trading Expe-
ditionsMeet with a Veflel from Bengal—Their diftreffing Situation
—Refrefhments fent to the Nootka—Plan of future Proceedings—
Vifited by a powerful Tribe of Indians—Their Propenfity to Theft—
Departure from Montague Ifland—The Ships feparate—Arrival of
the King George in Hinchinbrooke Cove, - - Page 201
Gries ive Yi ea (A
Indians vifit the Ship with Sea-otter Skins—Boats fent on a trading
Expedition—Plundered by the Indians—Return of the Boats—Ar-
rival of the Nootka—Affift in getting her ready for Sea—Long-
boat fent to Cook’s River—Departure of the Nootka—Long-boat’s
Return—Sent a fecond Time—Vifited by different Tribes of In-
dians—Various Employments carried on—Abundance of Salmon,
Herrings, and Crabs— Arrival of the Long-boat—Departure from
Port Etches, = = = = 226
AvP. ie,
Run along the Coaft of Montague Ifland—Short Account of Prince
William’s Sound—Defcription of the Inhabitants—Their Perfons—
Manners— Drefs—Difeafes—Ornaments—Food—Cookery—Situation
for a Settlement—Produce—Weapons—Hunting Implements—Spe-
cimen of the Language—Proceed along the Coaft—Anchor in Port-
lock’s Harbour—Intercourfe with the Natives—Long-boat fent on
a trading Expedition—Vifited by a diftant Tribe of Indians, 244
Ope = We. SMe. 4 UNG
A new Party of Traders from the Eaft—Under the Neceffity of ex-
changing Hoftages—Part of the Ship’s Company go on Shore—
fe) . Meet
GON TH NT &S.
Meet with Indian Tea—Vifit the Natives at their own Refidence—
Their Habitations and Manner of Living defcribed—An Account
of the Spaniards having been on the Coaft, and left the Small-pox
—The Long-boat returns from an Expedition to the Eaftward—
Examine the Sound—Another Vifit from eur North Weft Friends—
Ceremonies to be obferved before commencing Trade—Jofeph
~ Woodcock fent as an Hoftage—Three Days in the Country—An
Account of the Natives—Their Difpofition, Ornaments, Drefs,
and Language—Obfervations on the Advantages likely to accrue
from a Settlement on the Coaft—Some Thoughts of an Expedition
by Land—Leave Portlock’s Harbour, = - Page 268
CEL AYP. XEV.
Paflage from the Coaft_to Sandwich Iflands—Tranfactions there—Let-
ters received from Captain Dixon and Mr. Rofs—Some Particulars
received from Taa-boo-a-raa-ne refpecting the Death of Captain
Cook—Defcription of the White Tern—Cruelty of the Chiefs to
their Inferiors—Obfervations on a Trade to Botany Bay from thefe
Iflands—Final Departure from them—Paflage to China—Arrival
there, - ~ - = 207
Cory AY Es Ve
An Account of a Court of Enquiry held at the Requeft of Captain
Greer of the Belvidere, on his People who mutinied in his Ab-
fence—The Court’s Dee temeaion thereon—Punifhment inflicted
on the Mutineers—Account of meeting with Tyaana at China—
His Behaviour there—Attention paid him—Returns to his own
Country with a valuable Cargo—A {hort Defcription of his
Perfon, - - = = 327
GHA:
xil Ga Nw FR BN Bs,
CHAP. XVI.
Leave Macao—Proceed through the Straits of Banca and Sunda—
Anchor at North Iland—The Veflels part Company—Arrival at
Saint Helena—Departure from thence—Five of the People nearly
poifoned by eating Fith—Arrival in England—A Lift of Plants,
:* Birds, and Foffils feen in Cook’s River, - = Page 364.
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North Weft Coaft of America.
wr APT.
Account of the different Perfons who firft carried on the
Fur Trade.—The King Georges Sound Company efta-
blifoed.—Two Veffels purchafed.—The Complements of
their Crews, and Names of the Officers.—Paflage from
Gravefend to Portfmouth—Employments there.-—De-
parture from Port{mouth.—In Danger near the Cafkets.
—Arrival at Guernfey.
HOUGH that illuftrious navigator, Captain Cook,
did not, with all his fkill and all his perfeverance,
obtain the great object of his voyage to the weftern coaft
of America, the difcovery of a praéticable paflage from
the North Pacific to the North Atlantic Ocean, he fur-
nifhed philofophy with many additional fats, and he
opened to commerce feveral extenfive profpects. The
B voyages
CH ASP:
i
2
A NOYAGE WT.OV, TALE
© HA ®- voyages of the prefent reign, as they were profecuted with
tae views the moft difinterefted, were expofed to the world
without referve. And every nation and every individual
had thus an opportunity of forming new defigns, -either
for the cultivation of-feience, or for the advantage of
traflic.
Ir Great Britain owe fomething to France for her dif-
coveries in former times, the French are much indebted,
in the prefent, to the Britifh mariners for laying open the
whole globe to human eyes and to human induftry. . The
French king, with a noble emulation, feems to have fent
out feveral officers with fuitable accommodations, to fol-
low the tracts of the fucceflive voyages which had been
fo happily atchieved under his Majefty’s aufpices; though
an Englifh feaman may be allowed to fay, that the French
navigators failed in their wake at a great diftance aftern.
No fooner were the voyages of Cook, of Clerk, of Gore, and
of King accomplifhed, and their narratives publifhed, than
a new expedition was, in 1785, difpatched from France,
under the conduét of Mefirs. Peyroufe and De Langle,
in order to glean on this ample field what the misfor-
tune of Cook had left unattained.
As early indeed as 1782, a well-known individual,
Mr. Bolts, attempted an adventure to the North Pacific
Ocean from the bottom of the Adriatic, under the
emperer’s flag; but this feeble effort of an imprudent
man failed prematurely, owing to caufes which have not
yet been fufficiently explained. The projeé of Bolts ap-
pears to have been early adopted by the Britifh fubjeés
who are fettled in Afia, and who ftand high in an aétive
5 age
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
age for knowledge and for enterprife. They were natu-
rally ftruck with the fuggeftion of captain Cook, what a
gainful trade might be carried on from America to China.
for furs. And a brig of fixty tons, with twenty men,
‘under the command of James Hanna, was, in purfuit of
this flattering obje@, difpatched from the river of Canton
in April 1785; and after coafting Northward, and tra-
verfing the Southern extremity of Japan, this brig arrived
in the fubfequent Auguft at Nootka Sound, the American
mart for peltry. Whatever-may have been the fuccefs of
Hanna in 1785, he performed, in a larger veffel, a
fimilar voyage in 1786. In this year, the merchants
ef Bombay fent two veffels under the direction of James
Strange, while the traders of Bengal difpatched two thips,.
which were commanded by the lieutenants Mears and. Tip-
ping, to the American coaft for furs, in the hope of In-
dian profits. Thefe feveral adventures, the gains of which
were no doubt greatly amplified, incited to fimilar pur-.
fuits the torpid fpirit of the Portugueze at Macao,
whofe fathers had been the difcoverers, the conquerors,
and monopolifts of the Eaft.
Turse enterprifes have proved extremely important to
the world, though their profits, confidering the capital
and the rifques, were not envioufly great. Thefe enter-
prifes, however, by enlarging the limits of difcovery,
made navigation more fafe in the North Pacific Ocean.
They familiarifed the South Sea iflanders to European
perfons, and manners, and traffic. They taught the
American favages, that ftrength muft always be fubordi-
nate to difcipline: and, having difcovered the Ahooa
B 2 Indians
CH A
I.
4
AMIVAOT~ AGA) OTI@ I HVE:
CH A ®. Indians on the borders of Nootka Sound, who had fo far
t-——— advanced from their favage ftate as to refufe to fell to Mr.
Strange, for any price, the peltry which they had already
engaged to Mr. Hanna, thefe enterprifes have afcertained
this exhilarating truth to mankind, that civilization and
morals muft for ever accompany each other.
In the effluxion of ages, periods often arife, when
mankind, by a confentaneous {pirit, purfue with ardour
analogous enterprifes. At the fame epoch Columbus and
Gama were employed, the one in difcovering the lands in
the Weft, the other in exploring the regions of the Eaft.
In the prefent times the Britifh, the French, and the
Spaniards, have, at the fame moment, bufied themfelves
in fearching every coaft and every creek, with the glorious
purpofe of benefiting the human race, by adding to their
happinefs. While thofe adventures were thus performed
from the Eaftern extremities of Afia to the Weftern fhores of
America, private perfons undertook a more arduous voyage
of a like kind from England. It was in May 1785, that
Richard Cadman Etches and other traders entered into a
commercial partnerfhip, under the title of The King George’s
Sound Company, for carrying on a fur trade from the
Weftern Coaft of America to China. For this purpofe
they obtained a licenfe from the South Sea Company, who,
without carrying on any trafic themfelves, ftand in the
mercantile way of more adventurous merchants. ‘They
procured alfo a fimilar licenfe from the Eaft India Company,
who at the fame time engaged to give them a freight of
Teas from Canton. ‘This enterprife of Te King George’s
Sound Company alone evinces what Englifh copartner-
fhips
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fhips and Englifh capitals could undertake and execute,
were they lefs oppofed by prejudice and reftrained by
monopolies.
In order to execute this defign, The King George’s
Sound Company purchafed a fhip of 320 tons, and a
{now of. 200 tons; having thus a fize and burden which
“captain Cook, after adequate trials, recommended as the
fitteft for diftant employments ; and which, owing to the
merchants experience, England happily enjoys in the
greateft numbers. Thefe veffels were immediately put
into deck, in order that they might be completely fitted
for fo long a voyage. With all the fkill and diligence of
the fhipwrights of the Thames, it was not, however, till
the 8th of July, that thefe veffels were moored at Dept-
ford, for the convenience of fitting their rigging, engaging
feamen, and taking on board fuch ftores and other ne-
ceflaries as were judged needful for a voyage of fuch length
and variety. The beft provifions were purchafed, as being
the cheapeft in the end; and great attention was ufed in
providing thofe articles which were thought moft likely to
preferve the health of the crews, by adding to their comforts.
In the mean time the owners appointed me commander
of the larger veffel, and of the expedition; and George
Dixon of the fmaller: both of us having accompanied
captain Cook in his laft voyage into the Pacific Ocean, were
deemed moft proper for an adventure which required no
common knowledge and experience. Other officers of
competent talents were at the fame time appointed, in
order that they might know each other and facilitate =
outfit.
CHAP.
)
AuW OF AG Eq’ Oot Bis
outfit *, The novelty of this enterprife attracted the no-:
tice of feveral perfons, who were eminent either for talents
or flation, and who promoted this voyage by their counte-
nance, or ftrengthened the company by their approbation.
When Sir Jofeph Banks and Lord Mulgrave, Mr. Rofe and
Sir John Dick, came on board, the Secretary of the Trea-
fury named the largeft veffel The King George, and the
Prefident of the Royal Society called the {malleft The
ueen Charlotte. Exclufive of the profits of traffic, or
the advantages of difcovery, this voyage was deftined to
other national objects. Several gentlemen’s fons, who had
fhewn an inclination to engage in a feafaring life, were
put under my care, for the purpofe of being early initiated
in the knowledge of a profeflion which requires length of
experience, rather than fupereminence of genius +. I at
* King George.
Officers Names.
Nathaniel Portlock,
William M‘Leod.
Mates, - - } Jom Chriftleman.
Samuel Hayward.
Officers and Men.
Captain, - -
Surgeon, - - James Hoggan.
Robert Hill.
Agiitant Traders, } Wittinm Wilbye.
Boatfwain, - - Archibald Brown.
Carpenter, - Robert Horne.
Seamen and Boys, = - = =F eGo
Total, 59
Queen Charlotte.
Officers and Men. Officers Names:
Captain, - - George Dixon.
John Ewen Carew;.
Mates, - - James Turner.
George White.
Surgeon, - - William Lauder..
Affiftant Trader, William Beresfords
Steward, - - Henry Forrefter.
Boatfwain, = - John Gatenby.
Carpenter, - - John Sadler.
Seamen, - - - 24
Total, 33
eed
+ Walter Adams was fent out by Sir John Dick.
John Penetire, by Mr. Salt, deputy governor of the South Sea Company.
John Gore, by Captain Gore of Greenwich Hofpital.
David Gilmore, by Mr. Ch. Gilmore.
Charles Gilmore, by Mr. S. Gilmore.
William Biron, by Mr, Edward Biron.
John Webb :
William Kirby, boy Mr. Hanning.
Thomas Thompfon, by Mr. Wilbye.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
7
the fame time engaged William Philpot Evans and Jofeph © #,4 ?-
Woodcock, two of the pupils of Mr. Wales, the mafter ——
of the mathematical {chool in Chrift’s Hofpital, who were
at once able to affift in teaching the boys the rudiments of
navigation, and might be ufefully employed in taking
views of remarkable lands, and in conftructing charts of
commodious harbours.
- Havine got moft of our ftores on board, we proceeded
down the river, and arrived off Gravefend on the 29th of
Aueguft. This evening I read articles of agreement refpect-
ing the voyage to both the fhips companies, which fome
of them at firft refufed to fign; but, after a proper ex-
planation, they all cheerfully confented, except two of my
own crew, whom I immediately difcharged; as I had re-
folved to engage no feeman who was not perfeétly fatisfied
with the articles, and altogether contented with his
ftation. The next morning the crews were paid their river-
- wages, with a month’s advance; and, having ftood to-
wards the Downs with a frefh South Wefterly breeze, the
fhips came to an anchor the fame evening in Margate
Roads.
Earty in the morning of the 31ft we got under {fail
and proceeded towards the Downs, having ftill a frefh
breeze at South Weft; and at eight the fame morning we
anchored off Deal in. 82 fathom water; the South Fore-
land Poiat bearing South Weft, diftant five miles, and
Deal Caftle- North Weft, two miles diftant. We lay at
anchor during the rft September, employed in procuring
frefh beef and various refrefhments.
Next
1785
Auguf.,
Auguft.
Wedndef. 3:
September.
Thurfday 1.
8
CHAP.
I.
Le eed
1785.
September,
Friday 2. -
Saturday 3.
Sunday 4+
Wednef. 7.
Tharf, 15.
Friday 16,
A VOYAGE TO THE
NexT morning at one o'clock we weighed anchor, and
ftood towards the channel; but meeting with gales at
once frefh and contrary, we were obliged to anchor under
Dungenefs in the evening of the 3d, with the light-houfe
bearing South Weft by Weft, about four miles diftant. A
remarkable circumftance happened whilft we lay here:
Charles Gilmore (one of the boys under my care), be-
ing at the maintopmaft-head, attempted to come down
by the topmaft backftay; but lofing his hold when he
was almoft at the top, he fell direétly into the main chains ;,
yet he providentially received no hurt, and was not the
leaft frighted with his fall.
- Ar three o’clock in the morning of the 4th we weighed
anchor and ftood towards Spithead, where we arrived |
at one o’clock on the feventh.
Durine our ftay here, the crews were conftantly ferved
with frefh beef and plenty of vegetables; the employments
which principally engaged us were, fetting up the rigging,
and replacing the water that had been expended. Several
{pare anchors, and a variety of fuch other ftores were pur-
chafed, which we judged would be neceflary during fo long
a voyage, and with which we had not been fupplied in the
Thames.
Every neceflary bufinefs being completed, on the 15th.
all hands were employed in getting the veffels ready for fea,
and at feven o’clock in the morning of the 16th we got
under fail with light variable winds. By noon we were
clofe in with Dunnofe, which caufed us to ply occafionally.
At
NORTH: WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At four in the afternoon, having a frefh gale, and very hazy ©
weather, we bore up for St. Helen’ s, and foon afterwards
anchored in St. Helen’s road, Bembridge Point bearing
South Weft by Weft, three ales diftant.
Ar fix in the morning of the 17th we weighed, and
made fail with moderate variable winds, the weather hazy
with rain; at noon St. Catherine’s Point bore North Weft,
five miles diftant. From this to the rgth, we had little
variety; the weather in general was thick and hazy, with
frequent fhowers of rain. About feven o’clock in the
evening of the 1 gth, the Cafkets bore Eaft North Eaft three
leagues diftant; it being then nearly calm, a rapid tide fet
us ftrongly Guat them ; and at one time we were not two
miles diftant. from thofe very dangerous rocks; however,
before nine o'clock, the tide fae and at ten we could
jyuft difcern the lights, bearing South Welt by South, diftant
about three leagues.
Ar ten in the morning of the 2oth we faw the ifland
of Guernfey bearing South, at the diftance of three or
four leagues. Our latitude at noon was 49° 39° North,
the North Eaft point of Guernfey bearing South South
Faft, five miles diftant.
At fix o’clock we came to anchor in Guernfey Road
with the beft bower, in 13 fathom water, the caftle bear-
ing Weft, by South half a mile, and St. Martin’s Point South
South Weft, one mile diftant. We moored with the kedge
to the Eaft South Eaft.
9
HAP.
ae
785
eetben
Friday 16.
Saturday 17.
Monday 19.
Tuefday 2¢,
ree)
€ HAP.
II.
UH
1785.
Septer ber.
Saturday 24.
Sunday 25.
AYN. O:Y ACG BE OTTO 4a Ee
CH ASP. alt:
Various Refrefhments procured at Guernfey.—Leave that
Place, and proceed on the V oyage.—Remarkable Rock at
the Eaft End of Madeira.—Lay-to in Funchal Bay,
whilf Difpatches are fent on board one of his Majefty’s
Ships. —Bonavifia.—Mayo.—Sal.— Arrival at St. Fa-
go.— Occurrences there.—Refrefhments to be met with._—
Departure from thence.—Precautions againft the Rain
and fultry Weather near the Equator.—Fortunate Pre-
fervation of a Boy who fell over-board.—Pafs a vaft
Quantity of Shrimp Spawn.— Arrival at Port Egmont.
—Falkland’s Iflands.
S it was the intention of our owners to have the fame
quantity of fpirits daily ferved out to the fhips com-
panies as is cuftomary on board his Majefty’s veffels, our
principal bufinefs at Guernfey was to procure a proper fup-
ply of liquor for that purpofe; accordingly we received on
board a confiderable quantity of fpirits, together with
Port wine and cyder; various ftores were at the fame time
taken from my veffel, and put on board the Queen Char-
lotte. Thefe different employments engaged the whole
of our time till the afternoon of the 24th, when all hands
were bufied in getting ready for fea.
Ar five o'clock in the morning of the 25th a breeze
{fprung up at South Eaft, and foon afterwards the pilot came
on ane at eight we unmoored and got ready to heave a-head,
when
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
when the wind fuddenly chopped round toSouth South Weft.
Atnoonwe had very ftrong gales and {quallyweather. About
one o’clock the wind veering to Weft South Weft it was my
intention to have weighed and gone to fea, but the weather
in an inftant changing its appearance, cand beginning to
blow very hard, prevented me. The gale ftill increafing,
I gave orders for the topgallant-mafts to be ftruck and got
tr
ag ‘ae
nae
September
Sunday 25.
down upon deck. I likewife caufed preparation to be -
made for ftriking the topmafts, and fpliced one of the new
cables to the beft bower; intending, fhould the gale con-
tinue till the evening, to lower the topmafts, to have
veered to a cable and half on the beft bower, and half a
cable on the {mall one. If the fhip had not held faft under
thefe precautions, I fhould have run through the Little
Ruffels, as I had-a pilot on board; and by having the
lower yards aloft, might have brought her under the courfes,
and on occafion, the topfails clofe reefed ; but fortunately
towards evening the wind got round to the Northward,
though it continued blowing in fudden gufts through the
night.
Ar nine o'clock in the morning of the 26th, having a
moderate breeze at North North Weft, we weighed anchor
and got under fail; at noon St. Martin’s Point bore North
- Eaft by North, diftant one mile and a half; our obferva-
tion gave 49° 20° North latitude. At fou in the after-
noon the pilot left us. Salt provifions were firft ferved
out to the crews on the 27th, at a pound a man a day,
together with half a pound of potatoes. At noon we faw
Monday 26.
Seven Ifles, which bore South, eight or nine leagues, ,
and the Ifle of Bafs South Weft by South, feven leagues
diftant: our latitude was 4.9° 6’ North, and the longitude,
by lunar obfervation, 3° 50 45” Weft.
C 2 In
12
Ci ATP.
il.
a eed
1785.
September.
Wednef, 28,
Thurfday 29.
Friday 30.
Oober.
Saturday 1.
ARIVAO MW AIG EO OF Oe TIVE
In the evening of the 28th a heavy gale came on at
South Eaft by South, attended with drizzling rain, which
brought us under leit reefed topfails. “The gale ftill in-
creafing, we handed the fore and mizen top-fails: at half
paft eleven we hauled round, in confequence of feeing a
light bearing about South Weft, which had much theap- _
pearance of a light-houfe, and which, if areal one, muft
have been Ufhant light. We judged ourfelves to be about
two leagues from it. The gale continued during the night
with unceafing violence, attended with heavy rain. As we
faw no land on the morning of the 2gth, it is probable
the light which was feen the preceding evening was the
ftern light of fome veffel which ftood on a contrary tack.
Ar fix o'clock in the morning of the 3oth I acquainted
captain Dixon with my intention of fteering Weft South
Welt as long as the wind continued favourable. This day
portable foup was ferved to the fhip’ s company, with half
a pint of peas each man three times per week. We faw a
number of land birds, one of which was caught; I fuppofe
them to have been driven off the French coaft by the heavy
South Eaft gales which we recently had met with. Our
latitude at noon was 47° 58 North, and the longitude
9° o Welt. In the afternoon we founded with a line of
130 fathom, but got no bottom. During the afternoon.
and night we had light variable airs with frequent calms.
Ar ten o'clock in the forenoon of the rf of OGober
we pafied a Danifh galliot. On this occafion our Com=
pany’s enfign was hoifted, in hopes fhe might take notice
of us, and mention it on her arrival in Europe.
In
NORTH (WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
In the afternoon of the 2d, a heavy gale of wind came
on at North Weft, which oecafioned us to clofe-reef the top-
fails; towards evening, the weather growing more moderate,
we made and fhortened. fail oc -cafionally, in order to give
the Queen Charlotte an opportunity of coming up with us.
Indeed we have often been obliged to take this ftep fince
our departure from England, as we found the King George
to have greatly the adlvatitage of her in failing, pene when
going large or by the wind.
Towarps evening on the 3d, the weather having a
very unpromifing appearance, I kept under an eafy fail, and
hauled up to Weft South Weft, for fear of being too near
Cape Finiftere ;
in the night, I had pafs its latitude; but we had a light
North Wefterly io tani the elbuide’ looking black and
lowering.
Durine the whole of the 4th and part of the sth we
perceived a confiderable ripling on the water which I
have reafon to think was occafioned by a current, and
_ our obfervation giving, for the laft 24 hours, 24 miles /e/s
wefting than the longitude by account, and the obferved
latitude giving 23 miles ore than by account, I judged
this current fet totheSouth Eaft at a confiterublls rate. Our
latitude. at noon was 41°48’ North, and the longitude
11° 40° Weft. _ On the 7th, having very fine weather, the
erew's bedding was got up to air, and every part below
was thoroughly cleaned.
From this to the 12th nothing particular Re eeu: but
at. eight o'clock that morning we faw the ifland Porto
gy! . Santo
as I judged, if a ftrong breeze came on
13
CF A Be
Ii,
3
1785.
Oétober.
Sunday 2.-
Monday 2,
Tuefday. 4.
Wednel. 5.
Wednef, 12.
14
ALM OY) AUG AR OT) = gry Pea
Se Fabnto bearing Weft: by North about 20 leagues diftant. |
a this we hauled up, to have a nearer view of it, with Thode
1785.
Otober,
rate breeze at North North Eaft. At noon he North Pot
Wednel 12 of the ifland bore North 68° Weft, diftant 14 leagues. Ino
changed our courfe to Weft by South 4 and ected for ‘the
Eaft end of Madeira, which, having been one of the firft
of the Weftern Miceverics, ies facilitated future voyages.
‘Our obfervation at noon gave 33° 7’ North latitude, and
the longitude was 15° 29° Weft. . During the afternoon 3
we kept ftanding for Madeira, the Weft end of which, “at
fix o'clock, borg due Weft ay 12 leagues diftant.. ~
As iT, withed eeetiable into Furichal Bay, ahd was! not
willing to lofe the opportunity of doing it, we fhortened
fail and brought-to during the night with the thip’s head
““‘Thurfday13. to the Northward. At od in the gia of the I 3th
we bore away and made fail.
Tur Eaft point of the ifland of Madeira; when it sais ’
about Weft by North, has a moft remarkable appearance;
the land feems to be divided by many extraordinary chafms,
and there is a large rock at the extreme Eaft point, ‘in the
fhape of a fohete, which is perforated fo as'to form an
uncommon arch, There is alfo a rock greatly refembling
a f{pire, which feems entirely detached from the ifland,
and which, one might fuppofe, could never refift the”
Peavy furfs that conftantly beat againft it.
By noon we were clofe in with the ifland, and kept find
‘ing for Funchal Bay, with a fine Hen at North Eaft.
Soon after. five o’clock, being abreaft of the bay, we foun
riding. there bis. “Majefty s thip care of fifty guns,
commo-
ee
bes
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Gey
LD Colt ys ig PY
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‘SOO CDN LT GOS Roy
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salon LT OLN Amy J uff
MACM,
wonbiy L puoyfip se puff oyp fo pog mp won FAT, STAR? NO YF
f
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
commodore Edward Thomfon; and under his command
his Majefty’s fhip Nautilus of 16 guns, which were
bound on the African ftation. We hove-to, and I fent
Mr. M‘Leod, my chief mate, on board the commodore
with difpatches, in order to defire that he would be fo
obliging as to fend them on fhore to the Britith conful,
‘with a requeft that he would forward them to England by
the firft conveyance. At the fame time I difcharged one
of my crew, and fent him on board the commodore at his
own requeft. Mr. M‘Leod returning about eight o’clock,
we made fail and ftood to the South Weft with a fine
Eafterly breeze and clear weather.
Norutne occurred worthy of note till the 22d; when
the water appearing remarkably coloured, we founded at
noon with 130 fathom line; but got no bottom. - Our
latitude was 17° x9’ North, and the longitude 22° 55’ Weft.
Ar five in the afternoon we faw the Ifle of Sal, bearing
Weft North Weft half Weft, 11 leaguesdiftant: at fixo’clock
we fhortened fail and ftretched to the Northward under the
topfails; being apprehenfive of falling in with fome rocks.
which are laid down in the charts about ro or 12 leagues
to the Eaftward of this ifland.
Ar fix in the morning of the 23d we made fail and
bore up South by’ Miele eth fli finciicla vias ctaie tatu, phie
forenoon wewere in hehe of Bonavifta, the extremesof which
bore from North 49° Weft to North 86° Weft, diftant about
feven leagues.. Our meridional obfervation gave 16° 7’ North
latitude, and the mean refult of feveral lunar obferva-
tions, taken in the morning, gave the longitude at noon
3 a2,
1s
S ea ae
——
Oder.
Thurfday 13,
Saturday 22.
Sunday 23.
16
AMWWOLY A GADOTIO IY WIE
BBP. botmpglog 5” Wefb;: in this: ficwation, the Ifle of Sal ap-
——~ pears altogether as one:high mountain, and Bonavifta as a
785.
Odiober.
Monday 24,
number of detached hillocks.
At two im the morning: of the 24th the Ifle of Mayo
appeared in fight, bearing Weft, about three leagues dif=
tant. On this we hauled up to South South Eaft, in: order
to give the ifland a good birth. At five we again made
fail and ftood for St. Jago, which we faw foon after feven
o'clock, bearing Weft by North.
Tue Ifle of Mayo is confiderably elevated, and the land
feems capable of yielding moft of the produdtions which
are natural to tropical climates ; but it does not appear that
the inhabitants take any great pains to cultivate it: for-
merly this place was much frequented for falt, which was
purchafed by Britifh fhips and carried to America; but
fince falt has been fo plentifully gathered on the Bahamas,
that trade has greatly declined.
Wiru a frefh trade breeze we ftood well in for St. Jago,
and at noon anchored in Port Praya Bay in eight fathom
water over a fandy bottom; the fort bearing North Weft
by North, the Eaft point of. the bay Eaft by South, and
the South point South Weft by Weft. I ordered the fhip
to be moored with the ftream anchor to the South Weft
a cable each way: our diftance from the bottom of the
bay, when moored, was about one mile and a quarter.
Soon after we were moored, there arrived in the bay the
Hammet, captain Clark, and a brig commanded by a captain
Hawkins, which were both from London on the Southern
whale
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
whale fifhery. Captain Clark had b cer out fourteen
months, and had 10@ tons of oil on board ; the brig was
outward bound.
Tue filling up our water, and providing ourfelves with
fuch frefh provifions as the ifland afforded, being principal
objects here, I went on fhore in the afternoen, accom-
panied by captain Dixon, to learn the beft method of fa-
_ cilitating our various purpofes.
AFTER waiting on the commander of the fort, who is
ftyled the “‘ Captain Moor,” and paying a port charge of
four dollars for each veffel, I went to infpe& the wells,
of which there are two, and both afford excellent water:
one of them indeed is rather inconvenient for watering,
being fituated at a confiderable diftance from the fhore ;
but the other is not more than 200 yards from the beach,
with a good rolling-way for cafks. I am inclined to think
it is better water than the other, as I obferved it the moft
frequented by the inhabitants.
I was informed that a market would be held at Praya
on the morrow, where I might have an opportunity of
furnifhing myfelf with live ftock and various kinds of re-
frefhments, which were brought the inhabitants from
feveral parts of the ifland.
Ar day-light in the morning of the 25th the long-boat
was hoifted out, and I difpatched Mr. Hayward, my rahied
mate, with a party, to fill water, following them immedi-
ately myfelf in the whale-boat. When we got near the
Ty beach,
17
cH A FP.
Il.
Ue
1785.
O&tober.
Monday 24.
Tuefday 25.
. 18
AUN. OY AE OTIO 1 P Hie
err. beaeh;/the furf running pretty high, I ordered Mr. Hay-
—— ward to bring the boat to an anchor, as I did not think it
785
Odobe ers
Tuefday 25.
Wednef, 26.
prudent for chem to land with her.
Havine fet the people bufily to work in filling water-
cafks and rafting them off to the boat, I again waited on
the Captain Moor, accompanied by captain Dixon. Whe+
ther he was diffatisfied with us the preceding afternoon, or
what other reafon he might have I cannot fay, but he now
behaved in a very haughty manner, feemed difpofed to
prevent us frorn procuring any refrefhments, and even re-
fufed us a little water to drink, though the day was ex-
tremely fultry; but on my intimating a defign of waiting
on the governor (who I was given to underftand refided at
fome diftance from Praya), to inform him of this improper
treatment of the fubjeéts of a friendly power, he relaxed.
a little, and fuffered us to trade with the inhabitants with-
out moleftation. ‘The people in general appeared. well-
difpofed and ready to ferve us. The remainder of the
day was taken up in purchafing hogs, goats, fheep, and.
oranges, which were brought to market in tolerable
plenty.
Earuy this morning I difpatched two of my mates with.
the long-boat and a watering party, following myfelf foon:
afterwards ; they immediately got to work, and by nine
o clock a boat-load of water was fent on board; I like-
wife fent fome fheep, goats, hogs, and oranges for the
fhip’s company. The boat returned at eleven’ o'clock,
and by one in the afternoon a fecond load was fent on
board, which completed our water.
LE by _ Unver-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tg
‘UnpersTanpinc there were bullocks on the ifland, and © a hale
being defirous to purchafe fome for the crews, I ail on
a gentleman who aéts here as agent for a mercantile houfe
in Lifbon, and who I found was the only dealer for beef :
on inquiring the price of bullocks, I was told ten dollars
each ; but as they were very {mall, I thought the price
too high, and I only engaged one, ‘and itawas with ait
ficulty I prevailed on this merchant to take money for it ;
he behaved politely and treated us hofpitably. This be
haviour from a ftranger called for a fimilar return, and we
fent him tea, brandy, wine, and a few other prefents.
Tue watering of both the fhips being completed, I de-
termined to ftay here two days longer, in order to give
the crews an opportunity of recreating themfelves on
fhore; being convinced this recreation would be of infinite
fervice to them, efpecially at a place where there is no great
quantity of {pirituous liquors to be procured ; accordingly,
on the 27th and 28th, both the fhips companies had
liberty given them to go on fhore, the half one day and
the half the other ; while thofe on board were employed
in getting the veflels ready for fea. .
An officer from each fhip was always fent on fhore with
our failors, and. had particular orders given them to pre-
vent, if poflible, any difputes with the natives; thefe
direGions were ftrictly attended to, and not a fingle
quarrel happened; our people conduéting themfelves on
fthore with the greateft regularity.
In the afternoon of the 28th arrived in the bay the
pon captain Barrett, from London, ‘bound to the coaft
D 2 of
is
1785.
October.
Wedeef. 2%.
Thurfday 27¢
Friday 28.
20
A *V200%) AG fF) SIO: tT HE
CHAP. of Brazil, and a brig from Martinico commanded by
a captain Clark. ©The Diana, in letting go her anchor, got
1785.
O&tober.
Friday 28.
Saturday 29.
foul of the Hammet’s cable, on which I fent my long-
boat to her affiftance, and fhe was extricated without much
difficulty.
Every bufinefs at this place being now completed, and
the crews in excellent health, I determined to leave it the
firft opportunity. At daylight in the morning of the 29th
we unmoored, and at ten o'clock weighed and made fail,
ftanding out of the bay with a moderate eafterly breeze.
Previous to this I took my leave of captain Clark of the
Hammet, to whom I acknowledge myfelf greatly indebted
for his affiftance on many occafions during our ftay at Port
Praya. At noon the extremes of the ifland bore from
North 53° Weft, to North 33° Eaft, diftant from the
harbour about fee miles.
Saint Jaco is generally mountainous, and appears to
be a very fine ifland: but our fhort ftay here, and my
profeffional duties, prevented me from making excurfions
into the interior parts. The vallies appear to be fertile ;
there is a great quantity of land which is fit for producing
fugar-cane, and I have no doubt but that with proper care
they might cultivate fome of the fineft in the world; they
raife cotton, and fome of the natives appear to be induf-
trious, but are exceedingly oppreffed by the Portuguefe
foldiers, who exa& an exorbitant toll from the unhappy
countrymen who bring their commodities to market, their
fheep, hogs, goats, turkeys, fowls, oranges, lemons,
limes, bananas, and plantains; all which are tolerably
plentiful, and might be purchafed at very reafonable
5 prices, ©
NORTH WEST. COAST OF AMERICA.
prices, were it not for thofe oppreffions, which feem to be
without remedy from an inattentive government. On the
whole, the variety of refrefhments which Saint Jago fupplies,
renders it a very eligible {tation for thofe veffels to touch
at, which are employed in the Southern whale fifhery, or
oe oii which are bound, as we were, — Cape Horn.
Fisltiol for fome days paft obferved a rippling on the
water, in the morning of the 4th November the whale-
boat was lowered down, in order to try the current; and
we found it fetting South Eaft by Eaft, at the rate of five
fathoms an hour. Our latitude then was 7° 44’ N paths and.
the longitude 21°55 Welt.
On the 11th one of our feamen caught a {parrow-hawk,
which had fettled on the mizen-topfail-yard. I could
fcarcely find any difference between this bird and that of
the fame fpecies to be met with in England. The obferva-
tion at noon gave 4° 39 North latitude, and 21° 30°
Weft longitude.
SINCE our departure from Saint Jago we had feldom
been favoured with a {teady North Eaft trade ; the wind
frequently was variable, at times blew very hath and in
heavy fqualls; the weather was clofe and fultry, at-
tended with violent fhowers of rain.
Sucu heavy rains and clofe fultry weather very often
bring on ficknefs among feafaring men, and too much
care cannot be taken to guard againft their fatal effects ;
accordingly every precaution was taken that could be
thought of for preferving the crews in good. health ; their
clothes
21
¢ HAP.
Il.
Bap Rony
785.
Ostoker.
Saturday 29.
November.
Friday 4..
Friday 13.
1785:
November.
Friday 11.
Duelday 15.
Wednef, 16.
AIMOvy AGED Treat ME
- clothes and bedding were brought upon deck to air, when-
ever the weather permiitted ; great care was taken to kee
the fhips between decks clean and well aired; and krowt,
fweet-wort, borcole, and portable foup, were alternately
ferved to the fhip’s company. . Thefe methods, with the
blefling of Providence, fucceeded to the utmoft of my
wifhes; fo that.there was not one perfon fick on board
during this paffage, although we laboured under the dif-
agreeable circumftance of our decks and upper works
leaking fo much, that many of the failors could fearcely
lie dry in their beds, and the rain prevented the caulkers
from being fet to work fo conftantly as our fituation re-
quired: this inconvenience arofe from the veflel being
new, and confequently having never been in. a warm
climate.
On the 15th David Gilmore, a boy about ten years
old, fell overboard from the weather main fhrouds, and
not being able to fwim, dropped a-ftern. Every effort
was ufed to fave him; but all had proved ineffe@tual, had
not Providence enabled him to keep above water till the
boat picked him up, when he was near two hundred yards
from the veffel, and had been eight or ten minutes in the
ocean; and when he was almoft dead with fright and
faticue. . ;
Earty the next morning we caught a fhark, which had
the greateft part of a large porpoife in his maw; this cir-
cumftance gave us frefh caufe of thankfulnefs forthe pre+
fervation of Gilmore, and »additional reflections: on ~ the
various accidents to which adeafaring life is fubjed.
a4
THE
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Tue fame day we crofled the equator in’ the 25th de-
sree of Welt longitude with a moderate trade wind at
South Eaft, and pleafant weather.
. In the afternoon of the 24th captain Dixon came: on
board the King George, and I fignified to him my in-
tention of touching at Port Egmont in Falkland’s lands,
in.order to refit ae water our fhips; as we then fhould
be enabled to profecute the voyage without attempting to
make any harbour near Cape Horn, a circumftance which
would moft probably be attended with difficulty and de-
lay. This point being determined on, captain Dixon
returned on board his own veflel about five o’clock ; and
we ftretched to the Southward with a favourable bread
Towarps evening on the 27th, two fand-pipers of the
firiated fpecies were feen about the fhip; after ftaying
near an hour, they flew away in the direction of Eaft
North Eaft. Jokn Hamilton Moore, in his chart of the
Atlantic Ocean, se down: an ifland called Afcencas,
about 19° 45° South latitude, and 35° 25° Weft longitude;
and judging myfelf at this time nearly in the fame Uiciende: )
and not being certain of its fituation as to longitude, I
brought-to and lay by during the night; at daylight next
morning we bore away and {tood South, Weft till ten
o clock, and afterwards Weft South Weft until: noon, when
our obfervation giving 20° 1’ South latitude, which is
more than five leagues to the Southward: of Afcencas, and
it being only a needlefs wafte of time to fearch for that
ifland, I altered our courfe to South Weft by South, in
order to make Port Egmont as fpeedily as poffible. Se-
veral large flocks of boobies and fheerwaters were hovering
about
25
cre
Wednef. 16.
Thurfday 24,
Sunday 27%
Monday-283
1785.
_ 1795
November.
Tuefday 29.
AT VWV.OCY? ATG FO ODIO. 2h HE
about to the Northward of us, and it is poflible that there
may be land not far from this fituation.
In the morning of the 29th we paffed a large quantity
of rock-weed, which I fuppofed had been driven from
the ifland of Trinidada and the fimall iflands adjacent to
it; a land bird, about the fize of a wild duck, and very
much like one, was feen flying about; we at that time
- were in 21° 14" South latitude, and 35° 5’ Weft longitude.
December.
Saturday 3.
Tuefday 6.
Monday 12.
Tue fame precautions that I have already taken notice
of were ftill ftri@ly obferved in regard to the prefervation
of health amongft our fhips companies, and were attended
with the happieft effets, as we had not at this time one
fick perfon on board.
Tue trade wind left us on the 3d December, about 24°
South latitude, and was fucceeded by a frefh gale at
South Weft ; on this we ftretched to the Eaftward, but the
wind gradually fhifting to the Southward, we were again
enabled to fteer South Weft by South.
In the evening of the 6th, being in 26° 24’ South lati=
tude, and 39°26’ Weft longitude, we fteered South Weft
during the night, as there is a rock laid down in Moore’s
chart nearly in that fituation. Fortunately, however, we
faw nothing of it; and next morning we again fteered our
proper courfe with a frefh Eafterly breeze.
On the 12th we paffed through a prodigious quantity of
fpawn, fome of which was taken up, and on examination
it was found to be the fpawn of fhrimps ; each feparate
: particle
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
particle was about the fize of a {mall bean, of a fubftance
like blubber or jelly, quite tranfparent, and contained a
{mall fhrimp alive but not matured.
I wave reafon to fuppofe this {pawn comes out of the
river Plata, as we were nearly oppofite its mouth; our
latitude being 34° 35° South, and the longitude 45° 37’
Welt; the great numbers of fpermaceti whales which are
generally met with here, are doubtlefs induced by thefe
tran{parent fubftances to frequent a fituation where they
conftantly find fuch abundant food.
On the rsth, being in 37° 44” South latitude, and
48° 20° Weit longitude, we paffed a great number of
fpermaceti whales ; a large piece of bark, which appeared
to have been recently feparated from the tree, was feen
floating in the water; and albatroffes, fheerwaters, and a
number of birds which were entirely white, and greatly
tefembled a pigeon, were flying about in every direction.
During’ the forenoon of the zoth the water was very
much coloured ; but as there is no vow land near the
fituation we then were in, and having a brifk favourable
gale, I did not chufe to interrupt our progrefs by found-
ing; we faw a number of albatroffes, fheerwaters, and
filver-coloured birds, a fhark, and feveral whales. Our
obfervation. at noon gave 42° 26° South latitude, and. the
longitude was 53° 39° Wett..
In the evening of the 21ft we had a frefh gale of wind
at Weft South Weft, and the fea breaking in a very extra-
ordinary manner, we founded, but got no bottom, with a
25
Seren
Il.
Ne ed
1785..
December.
Monday 12:
Thurfday 15.
Tuefday zo.
Wednef.. 21.
line of fixty fathom. The next morning large patches of Thurfday 22.
E rock-
26
AMV OF AGE STO He
G Hw e- cock> weed were floating on the water, and great variety of
——
85.
Dey:
Thurfday 22.
1786.
January.
Monday z.
Tuefday 3.
birds, fuch as albatroffes, fheerwaters, and ftormy petrels,
were flying about the veffels. The latitude then was
45° 26° South, and the longitude 54° 3’ Weit.
From this to the 2d January we in general had very
tempeftuous weather, attended with violent fqualls; variety
of birds in great numbers were daily feen, fuch as Port
Egmont hens, albatroffes, petrels, penguins, &e. large
quantities of rock-weed conftantly floating in the water ;
and it being much coloured, we were frequently induced
to found, but we never got any bottom with 120 fathom
line: at length, early in the morning of the 2d, we got
foundings in 72 fathom water, over a bottom of fine grey
fand, and immediately afterwards faw Falkland’s Iflands,
the land then in fight bearing from South to South Eaft,
about feven leagues diftant. During the whole day we
had light variable winds, and very hazy weather, which
obliged us to ply occafionally, and prevented our getting
in Th the land.
Azour eleven o’clock in the forenoon of the 3d, being
about fix leagues diftant from the land, we faw fomething
from the maft-head which had greatly the appearance of
a fhip under fail bearing South Eaft of us, but on a nearer
approach it was found to be a rock whitened over with
the dung of birds; it is fituated about three leagues from |
the land. Our latitude at that time was 51° 1’ South, and
the longitude 58° 48 Weft; in this fituation we had
foundings in 72 fathom water over a bottom of fine fand,
and as we ftood in fhore they leffened ernie
Ir
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Ir happened rather unluckily, that we had not a fepa-
rate chart of Falkland’s lands on board of either veffel.
This circumftance, together with the variable winds and
foggy weather we conftantly had, occafioned us to ply
with caution, though I was very defirous to make a har-
bour as foon as poflible; what water we could get at being
nearly expended, without breaking up the hold, which Ff
did not like to undertake in fuch ftormy weather as we had
recently had. At fix o'clock in the afternoon, feeing the
appearance of an harbour to the South South Weft, I fent
my whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte for captain
Dixon, and communicated to him my intention of ftanding
in for it next morning, as we (having then nearly a calm)
had no chance of coming to anchor whilft daylight con-
tinued. We now had foundings in twenty-fix fathom
water, over a bottom of foft fand inclining to mud; the
white rock juft mentioned bore North 41% Eaft, diftant
four or five leagues ; the Eafternmoft point of land in fight
‘North 61° Eaft, and the Wefternmoft point South 65° Weft,
about feven miles diftant. We tacked during the night as
occafion required, and foon after two o’clock in the morn-
ing of the 4th, ftood for our expeéted harbour; but on
eur getting well in with the land, we found ourfelves dif
appointed, the inlet not affording any fhelter for veffels to
lie at anchor. On this we ftood to the Weftward, as I
judged we were too much to the Eaftward for Port Eg-
mont, which I wifhed tomake. In the morning we had
light airs, and fo thick a fog, that-no land could be feen,
but at ten o'clock fome high land made its appearance over
the fog-bank, and prefently afterwards we faw low land
bearing from South by Eaft to South by Weft, about four
miles diftant: we had foundings in thirty-two fathom
Ei 2 . water,,
ms
CHAP.
IE.
1786.
January.
Tuefday 3,.
Wednel. 4;
1786.
January.
Wednef. 4.
Thuriday 5.
By kWh OV) AGG Ey ST "DAVEE
- water, over a bottom of mud covered with fine yellow
fand.
Tue low land was fituated about three miles trom fhore,
and feemed to form two iflands; but on a nearer approach
I found that they were joined by a reef, and that a rocky
fhoal ran out from each extreme nearly a mile.
We plied along fhore with variable winds and foggy
weather until daylight in the morning of the 5th, when,
having a favourable breeze from the Northward, we
ftood well in for the land; foon afterwards a fine
opening prefented itfelf to the South Weft, which pro-
mifed an excellent harbour. On this I ordered the whale-
boat to be lowered down, and fent Mr. M‘Leod, my chief
mate, with orders to found the entrance, and to dire@
captain Dixon to keep a-head of the King George.
By five o’clock we approached the opening very faft;
on which I made a fignal for the whale-boat to pufh on
and look out for an anchoring place. Soon after fix
o’clock, the boat being about four miles a-head, made
the fignal for fhoal water, which occafioned us to haul
the wind and ftand off: after founding dire@ly acrofs
the entrance, the boat proceeded on and prefently difap-
peared within the Eaft point of the opening; notwith-
ftanding which, I ftood in under a very eafy fail, being
doubtful whether we fhould meet with a harbour; Mr.
M‘Leod not having as yet made the appointed fignal for
finding one. At the fame time we were within fome
{mall iflands, with an increafing wind, which blew directly
on fhore, and there was every appearance of an approach-
ing
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
ing gale: however, foon after nine o’clock I had the plea-
fure of feeing the union flag flying on the top of a high
hill over the Eaft point of the opening, which was the
fignal for afafe harbour; I immediately made a fignal for
the boat to return, not thinking it prudent to run in until
I had the mate’s report ; but that no time might be loft,
I requefted captain Dixon te fend his whale-boat a-head
to found, and, fhould they meet with fhoal water, to
continue on it asa mark for the veffels to fail by.
Azout ten o'clock Mr. M‘Leod returned, and reported
that he had found a good harbour, and a place tolerably
convenient for watering. When the fignal was made for
fhoal water, he was in feven fathom water, over a bed of
rocks covered with weeds, which came up to the furface,
and which were fituated near the middle of the channel.
We ftood in for the harbour under an eafy fail, and at
eleven o’clock came to anchor with the beft bower on the
Eaft fhore in twelve fathom water, over a fandy bottom,
but under the furface I judge it to be a {tiff mud.
Tue fhip was moored with the ftream-anchor to the
Southward : when moored we were land-locked, except
at the entrance we came in by, the Eaft point of which
bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, and the Weft point
Welt by North, diftant from the land to the Northward
about three quarters of a mile.
17386.
January.
Thurfday 5.
30 AU IVIO VAG Eh) TD Ova
Ci Ate... An.
Various Employments in Port Egmont.—Ruins of a Town
difcovered.—Meet with two Ships employed in the Oil
Trade.—Method of extracting Oil from the Blubber of
the Sea Elephant.—Several Birds defcribed.—Refrefb-
ments obtained there.—Leave Port Egmont, and pro-
ceed to States Bay.—Difference between the Sea Lion
and Sea Elephant pointed out.—Remains of a Wreck
difcovered.—Leave Falkland’s Iflands and proceed on
the Voyage. —Pa/s Statens Land.—Stormy Weather in
doubling Cape Horn.—Pick up a Number of Turtle.—
Friatle/s Search Jer Los Magos.— Arrive in Sight of
Owhybee.
cH A? FMMEDIATELY after we were moored, I ordered the
whale-boat to be lowered down, and went on fhore,
1786. : 4 : js c
January. . accompanied by captain Dixon, to infpect the watering-
eam place pointed out by my mate, and which was fituated on
the North fhore: it afforded excellent water, which run
through an immenfe bed of large ftones; but the path to
the watering place being alfo very ftony, and liable to
hurt our cafks very much, I was induced. to look out fora
more eligible fpot. We ee along fhore to the Eaftward,
and fell in with feveral runs of good water, but the accefs
to every one of them was equally ftony. As thefe ftones
occupy a number of vallies whofe declivity is confiderable,
and which are eee by high mountains, I think it
3 very
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
kind of white mofs.
In the courfe of our walk we met with a number of
fea lions on the beach, feveral of which were killed for
the fake of their fat or blubber to make oil for our lamps,
and various other purpofes: by the time they were got into
the boat the day was far fpent, which occafioned us to
repair on board.
Durine the afternoon we had frefh gales from the
Northward with frequent fqualls, but at night the wind
fhifted to South Weft, and the weather grew moderate.
Earty in the morning of the 6th I went in the whale-
boat, in order to look for a convenient watering-place on
the Weft fide the harbour, not being well fatisfied with
any I had hitherto feen, and likewife to found the bay to
the Southward. Captain Dixon alfo went in his boat
upon.the fame fervice, taking the Northern fhore.
We carried foundings from twelve to ten fathom water,
over a fandy bottom, until we got within a quarter of a
mile of the fhore; the water then fhoaled to five and fix
fathom, with a-bottom of rocks. Round the point of
land to the Southward we had {till a rocky bottom with fix
and {even fathom water.
AFTER proceeding to the Weftward for about two miles,
we met with a fandy bar that runs quite acrols, and forms
a bay within the other: {mall veffels might go over this
bar
Friday 6.
32
© Hs P.
ill.
ee ee!
1786.
January.
Friday 6.
Saturday 7.
A NOYAGE TO THE
bar at high water and lie perfectly fecure; but it not an-
{wering our purpofe, we landed and walked into the
country, which was all in a wild ftate, without the leaft
appearance of cultivation, and not a ftick of wood to be
feen as far as the eye could reach; but a good fubftitute,
as fuel, may eafily be procured, es is the root of a long
coarfe grafs, that grows in many places quite to the water’s
edge, and when dry would make excellent turf.. In our
walk we picked up an iron hoop, and faw fome dung
which appeared like that of an hog; but our principal
defign in making this excurfion was not anfwered, as we
could not find any water fo convenient as that to the
Northward of our prefent fituation; on which I returned
on board at one o’clock, and determined to make the fhip:
as fecure as poflible, in order that we might proceed. on
our watering bufinefs without the leaft delay..
At two oclock the wind blowing very ftrong at South
Welt, we got the topgallant-mafts down upon deck, the
top-mafts were ftruck clofe down to the rigging, and the
lower yards kept aloft. Inthe night the weather grew
more moderate, and at four o'clock in the morning of.
the 7th, the long-boat was hoifted out and fent on fhore
with a watering party; the cables were got upomdeck, in
order to get at the empty butts under them. At eleven
o'clock the boat returned with a load of water which
filled thirteen butts in the main hold; fhe was immedi-
ately difpatched for another turn of water. During the
afternoon we had frefh gales and very fqually welthal, fo
that it was with great difficulty the long-boat got a fecond
turn of water on board ; this completed the main-hold,
and the cables were again peaildd down.
5
On
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
On the 8th I gave as many men as could be conveniently
{pared from the {hip leave to recreate themfelves on fhore,
and a boat to remain with them all day, in order to bring
them on board in the evening. The 25th December
being at fea, and the weather very unfettled, we declined
celebrating Chriftmas until a more favourable opportunity ;
and this being a very convenient time, I gave all hands a
double allowance of brandy, and fome frefh pork which I
killed for the occafion: thefe indulgences, together with
a good walk on fhore, made the Chriftmas pafs very plea-
fantly; and in the evening I had the fatisfaction of feeing my -
fhip’s s company in good {pirits; not a fingle man incapable
of doing his duty from drunkennefs or any other caufe.
Our people, when on fhore, made excurfions inte va-_
rious parts of the country, and fome of them difcovered
the ruins of a town, with fome garden ground adjoining,
in which were a few flowers; feveral forts of vegetables in
{mall quantities, fuch as horferadifh, fhalots, a few {mall
potatoes, and fome celery, which was in a degenerate
ftate: they likewife faw a hog, but he was fo wild they
could not catch him.
Tuts forenoon we completed our water, and the long-
boat was fent for a load of ftone ballaft; the people
who remained on board yefterday, had liberty given them
to go on fhore; they landed on the Weft fide of the
harbour, near the ruins of the town I have already taken
notice of ; and at fome diftance in the country faw a bul-
lock, a cow, and feveral hogs, which probably were left
babiua when the place was ecanas
F FROM
Ci Ai P:
January.
Sunday 8.
Monday 9.
34
CAH Ay Ps
Il.
em anee d
1786.
January.
Saturday 14.
Sunday 15.
RL RNOTY: ANE EG SIO) 5
From this tothe 14th we were engaged in various ne-
ceflary employments. About feven tons of ftone ballaft
were taken on board, and our boats likewife aflifted the
Queen Charlotte in the fame bufinefs, as fhe required a
much larger quantity of ballaft than the King George. A
number of feals and fea lions were killed for the fake of
their fkins and blubber; and the carpenters were fully
employed in caulking the quick-work and other parts that
were found defeGive, in order that we might proceed to
fea as foon as poflible. I gave the people liberty to go on
fhore at every opportunity, being convinced that land-air
and exercife conduce very much to preferve the health of
feamen in long voyages.
Durine this interval we in general had frefh gales at
South Weft, with fqually weather and frequent rain.
Ar nine o’clock this evening a floop arrived in the
harbour, and anchored off the town. Early next morn-
ing, captain Coffin came on board the King George, and
informed me that his floop is named the Speedwell, and
is tender to a fhip called the United States, commanded
by captain Hufley, and now lying in a good harbour at
Swan Ifland, in company with the Canton, captain Whip-
py: both thefe veffels were employed in the oil trade,
and had nearly completed their cargoes; the United States
having 300 tons of oil on board, and the Canton about
half that quantity.
Tue chief part-of their oil is procured from animals
they call fea elephants. Thefe creatures are certainly am-
phibious,
a Pa
kid
BP Mazll veil
YELLOW WINGED BUNTING.
2 * FS 4 4 i
filled une 30.1989, by I Ttachdale b G Goulding.
fo 4 Z
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
phibious, as they generally frequent fandy bays, or the
anne of bays that are compofed of {mooth flat ftones.
A good fea elephant yields near half a ton of oil, which.
is produced without boiling, the blubber is fo excetdingly
free: if put into cafks, the blubber will foon run to oil,
and afterwards it may be ftrained off into other cafks ;
but this procefs being rather tedious where there are very
large quantities of blubber; captain’ ‘Coffin informed me
they had difcovered a better and more expeditious method.
Tuey build a tank on fhore, of a fize fufficiently large
to contain any quantity of oil they expect to procure.
Over this tank a grating work is fixed by way of {trainer ;
the blubber is then thrown on the grating, and weights
being put on it, the oil is foon preffed out. Adjoin-
ing to the large ‘tani is a fmaller one, into whieh the
oil is ftrained a fecond time; by this means it is ren-
dered perfectly me and may be put into cafks at
pleafure.
From the Beitption given by the late captain Cook of
an animal he faw at New Georgia, T have no doubt but
it was a fea elephant ; and there is every reafon to ‘fuppofe’
they may be found at that ifland in great plenty : the fame
may be faid of Kerguelen’s Land, where we touched
iano captain Cook’s laft voyage, aid found a number of
Wee ginal which we then as to be fea lions > but
this w
F 2 THE
35
CH AP.
ill.
en, el
1786.
Faianry!
Sunday 15-
36
On Me.
‘AC TWO YA 'G-ED TO Vt E
Tuer feathered tribe which inhabit thefe iflands are very
——— numerous and in great variety, but moft of them are al-
1786.
January.
Sunday 15.
ready well known: however, I procured fpecimens of the
yellow-winged bunting, the rufty-crowned plover, and the
cinereous lark. Since my arrival in England I have got
correét drawings, from which the annexed engravings are
taken, and.a defcription of them may perhaps not be im-
properly introduced in this place.
Tue yellow-winged bunting is nearly the fize of a yellow-
hammer ; Yength five inches and a half; the bill is brown;
the plumage on the upper part of the body, a reddifh
brown; the fides of the head, quite round the eye, the
cheft ast fore-part of the Ae white ; at the lower part
of the laft a bar of reddith i the breaft yellowith 5.
the reft of the under-part dufky hives the lefler wing-
coverts yellow the reft of the wing, iilee the back and.
edges of the feathers, yellowifh; the tail reddifh brown,
all but the two outer feathers on each fide, which are
yellow ; legs yellow.
Tue female is much like the male, but.the lefler wing-
coverts incline to yellowifh afh-colour; the fides of cee
head, the cheft, and throat, dufky white.
Rufiy-crowned plover.—Size of ke? ringed plover;
length feven inches and.a half; bill three quarters of an
inch long, and black ;. the forehead, cheft,,all the fore-part
of the neck, the upper part- of the breaft,. and the belly,
white ; acrols the: top of the head is a bar of black» paffing:
~ downwards on each fide of the neck in an irregular manner
to the wings, and from thence forwards oe the lower part
5 of
SI Ftgan del
2
THE RUSTY CROWND PLOVER, MALE,
rope c Sellen c Gis c
Vubleshictr Mary 1 1739 ly We Seo Kedurle
‘
SE
Pableshile My PE, Ly Ae Hence eee
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
37
of the breaft, forming thereon a broad bar; behind the black © #4 ”
bar on the top of the head is a circle of a rufty iron-colour
furrounding the back part of the head as a wreath; the
crown of the head within this, as well as all the upper
parts of the body and wings, .are cinereous brown, except
the greater quills and tail, ‘gaan are ah the legs are
alfo black.
Tue female is greatly Gonifar: to a” :
wants the -rufty-coloured Mae at 7 ek part of the head.
an the fky-
e black; the
colour, and
po i lark pcs
lark ; length fix inches ;
plumaie and upper parts
the under part the f paler, inclining to
white near the vent ; quills are black, the.
outer edges of the feathers of both margined with ee
_ This fpecies is a variety of the at New Zealand.
e ing now completed, it was
get to fea dame although we
South Weft, attended with rain; but
o. fend one of 1 y mates on Board ‘eh
eturned with a meflage from captain Cofhn,
e that captain | had on bo
States, or feven thot
reafon to fuppofe th
‘that he had
frat a moderate
Ill.
SS
1786.
January.
Sunday: 15.
38
C H:A P.
Il,
a ed
1786.
January.
Sunday 15.
Menday 15.
Pea sO XoAs@ Eq T Oo 7 EhE
him-on the bufinefs: he was entirely of my opinion, and
we agreed to purchafe them, if the price was not too
high; and, that this affair might delay us as little as pof-
fible, we. lceraanel to requeft captain Coffin to pilot the
veils to Swan Ifland, where, as I have already obferved,
the United States lay at anchor.
Ar four o'clock in the morning of the 16th, the Speed-
well failed for a bay on the Eaft fide of Keppel’ s Ifland ;
at five o’clock we unmoored and got under fail, in order to
run farther into the bay. About ten, we anchored in twelve
‘fathom water, over a muddy bottom, the town bearing
Weft North Weft, diftant one mile and a half, the ftony
valley where we watered, North, three miles and a half, and
the South Eaft end of Keppel’s land, Eaft North Eaft, fix
miles diftant.. We moored with the beft bower to the Weft-
ward and the ftream to the Eaftward.
At noon I went in my whale-boat, accompanied by
captain Dixon, after the Speedwell, to have fome conver-
fation with captain Coffin refpedting the fkins ; weegot on
board about two o'clock, but the information he gave us
about them was: little more. than I had already received by
his meffage; however, he very readily undertook to pilot
us to Swan Hland, through the inner paflage, as foon as
. he had got a quantity of elephant blubber « on. 1 board, puich
Tuefday 17.
then lay at one of the outer keys.
Tae ie aes far {pent, aia Gur eifsece om che
_ fhips confiderable, we remained on board the Speedwell
all night; .and at five o’clock in the morning of the 17th
fet
4
= 1 fe J
; j s hei le $5 G Goultes x.
Lc 7 fi hStochkiale Px C7. Z
COMA SAL LOE Ga 4 Sq ly SCOCt VA
4
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fet off for our veffels, with an intention of furveying the
bay to the Eaftward ; at the fame time the Speedwell failed
for the key where their blubber was left.
Ar one o'clock I got on board my own fhip, and the
Speedwell arriving foon afterwards, I fent for captain
Coffin, and we agreed to fail in the morning if the wind
and weather permitted; he then returned on board his own
veffel. Some of my people that were on fhore for recre-
ation, returned in the evening with a large fow and feveral
{mall pigs, which they had caught at fome diftance in the
country ; and alfo great plenty of geefe, ducks, and vari-
ous kinds of birds, caught chiefly near the fea fide. During
the night we had ftrong gales from the South South Weft,
with fqualls and rain.
Next morning I fent my boat on board the Speedwell
for captain Coffin; he came immediately on board the King
George, but was of opinion that it would not be prudent
for us to fail with the prefent unfettled weather; I there-
- 39
© HyA P.
Ill,
Re
1786.
January.
Tuefday 17.
Wednef, 18.
fore determined to: keep my prefent fituation till a more —
favourable opportunity. The wind blew very ftrong all
day at South South Weft, attended with frequent {qualls,
but towards evening the weather grew moderate.
Art four o'clock in the morning of the 19th we un-
moored, and at feven got under fail with a moderate
breeze at South, fhaping our courfe for Swan Ifland: the
Speedwell took the inner paflage, and we ftood round
Saunders’s Ifland.
By
Thurfday 19-
40
(Gret ANE.
UD Si
a eet
1786.
January.
“Thurfday 19.
Friday 20.
A VOYAGE TO THE
By eight o’clock we were juft in the entrance of Port
Egmont, and the wind inclining to South Weft, we plied
to windward, and at noon were working through the
paflage between Saunders’s Ifland and Low Iflands. During
the afternoon we had variable winds, with fogs and clear
weather by turns. At eight o’clock the Weft end of
Saunders’s Ifland bore Eaft by South three leagues, a ridge
of rocks which extends from it, Eaft North Eaft five miles,
the Weft end of Low Iflands four leagues, and the Eaft
end of Carcafs Ifand South by Weft four leagues diftant.
Soon after ten o’clock we anchored off Carcafs [land Bay,
in 15 fathom water, over a bottom of coarfe fand and
broken fhells.
Tue morning of the 20th was ufhered in with a
thick fog and quite calm, but about feven o’clock, a breeze
forung up from the Weftward, and the weather cleared
up; on which captain Coffin came on board the King
George, in order to pilot us into Weft Point Harbour ;
the paffage from our prefent fituation to that place being
amongft a number of fmall iflands: he likewife put a
pilot on board the Queen Charlotte. On this we imme-
diately weighed, and at nine o'clock pafled between Beachy
Ifland and the Eafternmoft of the middle rocks. There
is a moft excellent harbour on the South fide of Carcafes
Ifland, well fheltered, which may eafily be known by a
{mall ifland that lies in the middle of it, within which a
veffel may anchor with the greateft fafety. At noon we
anchored with the beft bower in Weft Point Harbour, in
feven fathom water, over a fandy bottom, and moored with
the kedge, When moored, the North point of the har-
bour
NORTH -WEST.COAST OF AMERICA.
bour bore Weft North Weft one mile diftant, and the Weft
point, of- Weft Point Iland, Weft half - North, diftance
three leagues. This harbour ‘is certainly one of the fineft
in the world, being fheltered from’ Fat wind, and eafy -
of accels. » . : :
THe wind being unfavourable, and the weather very
hazy during the afternoon, we kept our fituation; but the
morning of the 21{t proving fine, we weighed and got under
fail-at feven o'clock. Soon afterwards, being dire@ly
oppofite the South Weft point of Weft Iland, the gufts of
wind came on fovery heavy from the high land, that we
were obliged to clew all up and keep the fhip large; how-
ever, after. we had rounded: the point, and got clear of
.the high land, we had a moderate fteady breeze from
Welt North Weft.. The weather being very hazy, we
fteered-South Weft by South, to make the Middle Iflands;
and at half paft ten o'clock the South end of Middle
Iflands bore South Eaft by. Eaft half Eaft, one league
diftant, and Swan Ifland, South half Eaft, four leagues
diftant. At noon we fed an Bblenranlor: which gave
51° 44 South latitude. . In this-fituation, Loop’s Head
(whieh is the Eaft point of the entrance into Swan Ifland
Bay) bore South Eaft half Eaft, diftant about two leagues,
and the Wefternmoft of the Middle Iflands Eaft South
Eaft, three miles diftant. At one o'clock «we paffed
Loop’s Head, and ftood into States Bay, fo named by
captain Benjamin Huffy, who firft difcovered it when on
a whaling voyage to thefe iflands fome years ago.
Wirutn this bay are feveral fine harbours, the principal
of. which I fhall diftinguifh by the name of Huffy’s Har-
G
bour,
4t
Cc y “e Dye
eid
17
January.
Tiday 20.
Saturday zr,
42
C HA P.
HI.
eee eee
1786,
January.
Saturday 21.
Sunday 22.
AV OF 4G OrO ae
bour, in honour of the difcoverer. Here we found riding
at anchor the United States, the Canton, and the Speed-
well and Maria floops, tenders to the United States.
Art three o’clock we anchored with the beft bower in
States Bay, in eighteen fathom water, over a muddy bot-
tom, and moored with the kedge. When moored, the
outer end of a reef without us bore North half Eaft, one
mile diftant; the entrance of the Bay Eaft by North,
one mile and a half; and a {mall ifland South by Weft
half Weft one mile and a half diftant.
As foon as the fhip was fecured I went in my whale-
boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, on board the United
States, to have fome converfation with captain Huffy,
refpecting the purchafe of his fur feals, but we found he
was not difpofed to part with them; and I am inclined
to think he meant them for an Eaftern market, as he
mentioned to me his intention of going to China imme-
diately on his return home.
Tue bufinefs which had detained us here for fome days
paft being now fitally put an end to, nothing prevented
us from getting to fea immediately; however, as our next
paffage was likely to prove a long one, I was induced to
give the failors a day’s liberty on fhore previous to our
leaving thefe iflands; accordingly, on the 22d, moft of
the people from both vefiels had a walk on fhore, and the
- weather proved very favourable.
I went along with captain Huffy over to the North-
fide of States Bay, and there found a fea elephant, which
at
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
at once convinced me that thofe animals we faw at Ker-
guelen’s Land were really fea elephants, and that we were
totally miftaken in calling them fea lions. I have already
taken notice how very different thefe animals are in their
nature, and I now had a moft convincing proof of it; for
the elephant was killed with all the eafe imaginable, but at
the North point of the bay a number of fea lions were
drawn up in a kind of rank on the beach, and difputed
our paflage with the greateft ferocity ; far from attacking
them, we acted only on the defenfive, and it was not
without difficulty we got round the point. |
In the courfe of our walk we found feveral pieces of
white wax, and faw a top, fome fpars, and various other
pieces of awreck. I mention this circumftance more par-
ticularly, as it may poflibly throw fome light on the fol-
lowing accident.
Some years ago two Spanifh veffels came round Cape
Horn, bound to Buenos Ayres, laden pyincipally with
white wax ; one of them arrived fafe, the other has never
yet been heard of, but there is too much reafon to fear
that fhe was loft on Falkland’s Iflands.
Tue day being pretty far advanced, I repaired on board
my fhip with a determination to put to fea at daylight in
the morning, if the weather permitted.
Havine a fine Southerly breeze, at four o’clock in the
morning of the 23d we unmoored, and at five weighed
and came to fail. We run clear of Ball Ifland, which is
fituated on the Weft fide of the entrance into Swan Ifland
Giz Bay,
43
Cir A.
Ill.
1786.
January.
Sunday zz.
Monday 23.
44
Be RO) XA Gays ES 7 ea edt a
cH A? Bay, and then fhaped our courfe for New Ifland, which
Gest
17386.
January.
- Monday 23.
Tuefday 240
from Ball Iland bears Weft half North, four leagues
diftant. On the Eaft fide of New Ifland are three good
bays; its greateft extent is from North to South. Good
water is fcarce at this ifland, except in a bay on the South
fide, and. there it is eafily faunal as it is a boiling fpring,
fituated nearly at low-water a I was informed b
captain Huffy, that moft of the fprings at New Ifland are
rendered brackifh by a very heavy fea, which conftantly
fets in with a Wefterly wind, the {pray of which flies over
the beach and mixes with the frefh-water {prings.
Ar noon the Northernmoft point of Round Ifland bore
Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, ten miles diftant; the South
Weft point of New Ifland, South Eaft half South, eight
miles; and the South Weft point of all Falkland’s Iflands
South South Eaft half Eaft, fix leagues diftant. We had
an obfervation, which gave 51° 36° South latitude. The
wind hauling to the Weftward at four o’clock, occafioned
us to tack, the weather moderate and hazy. At eight
o'clock Cape Peribal (the Wefternmoft point of Falkland’s
Iflands) bore Eaft South Eaft, fix leagues, and the North
point of New Ifland Eaft North Eaft half Eaft, eight
leagues diftant.
Havine a moderate breeze to the Northward in the
morning of the 24th, I fteered South Welt, being well
clear of all the Iflands, Cape Peribal at this time bearing
Eaft North Eaft, about ten leagues diftant. The weather
was hazy, and in the afternoon a very thick fog came on, ~
but we were fortunate enough not to lofecompany. We faw
numbers of whales, and variety of birds, fuch as penguins,
2 filver-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
filver-coloured birds, and fmall divers. About feven
o'clock the only hen turkey I had flew overboard, but the
weather being very foggy, and a heavy fwell from the
Northward, I did not think it fafe to venture my boat
from the fhip, though I was forry for the accident; as I
had referved her and a cock, together with fome other
poultry, to leave as breeders at any place where I thought
there was a probability of their breeding and being taken
care of.
On the 2sth, being then in 52° 33’ South latitude,
and 63° 12’ Weft longitude, the variation was 23° 6” Eaft.
In the evening we founded with fixty fathom of line, but
got no bottom.
Ar fix o’clock in the afternoon of the 26th we faw
Staten’s Land very high, bearing South, diftant about five
or fix leagues ; foon afterwards it came on to blow very
{trong and in fqualls, attended with rain, and the weather
fo thick that we loft fight of the land; this brought us
under clofe-reefed topfails and reefed courfes; the topgal-
lant-mafts were alfo ftruck. The weather clearing up at
half paft {even o’clock, the land again appeared in fight, on
which we made fail and run in for it: this however was of
fhort continuance, for prefently afterwards there was every
appearance of a bad night; fo that I judged it prudent to
fhorten fail, and haul our wind to the Northward. We
founded at eight o’clock in forty-five-fathom water, over
a muddy bottom: the lead was kept going, but did not
ftrike the ground with fixty fathom of line. At midnight
we tacked, and at two o'clock in the morning of the
fe | dd
J
45
CH AP,
il
1736.
January.
Tuefday 24.
Wednef. 25,
Thurfday 26,
46
Ad > On Ys Ar GE Op a ie He
CHAP. a7th again faw Staten’s Land; the extremes bearing
tae from South South Weft to South Eaft by South, diftant
1786
January.
Friday 27.
about fix leagues. The weather being moderate, we made
fail, and fhaped a courfe for the Eaft end of it. At eight
Oo lock the Eaft end of Staten’s Land bore South South
Weft five miles, and the {mall ifland oppofite New-year’s
Harbour, Weft South Weft, about feven leagues diftant.
Soon afterwards we paffed through a {trong rippling, which
I found was occafioned by a current fetting to the North-
ward.
ImmeDIATELY after we doubled the Eaft point of Sta-
ten’s Land, I fteered South by Weft by compafs, in order
to get a good offing; not chufing to keep near the fhore,
on account of the ftrong current which fets through the
Straits of La Maire. At noon Cape Saint Juan, which
is the Eaft cape of Staten’s Land, bore North Weft by Weft
half Weft, about fix leagues diftant. Our latitude was
54° 57 South, and the longitude 63° 33’ Weft. Staten’s
Land is high, but the mountains near the fummit being ~
very uneven, it gives them greatly the appearance of faddle —
lands.
New-year’s Harbour is already well known; befides
which, there is an appearance of a harbour on the North
fide near the Eaft end; there alfo feem to be two open-
ings, one near the Weft end, the other about the middle
of the ifland, and which is fituated within two {mall
round iflands that are detached from Staten’s Land. There
was a patch of {now on the fummit of the higheft moun-
tain, but not any wood to be feen.
I SEALS
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Seats were feen in prodigious numbers, and there is
no doubt but the fea elephant frequents this place; fo
that certainly it would be a lucrative employ for one
or two fhips to be fent annually for oil. During the
afternoon we had a moderate breeze at Weft by North,
and cloudy weather. At fix o’clock Cape Saint Juan bore
North ‘40° Weft, about eight leagues diftant. Prefently
after this, the wind fhifted gradually to the Southward,
and blew a very ftrong gale, which brought on a heavy
crofs fea, and caufed the fhip to labour exceedingly ; the
wind was however by no means fteady, but veered from
South to Weft, ftill blowing a frefh gale, with frequent
heavy fqualls, which occafioned us to tack as occafion re-
quired.
We ftill had ftormy tempeftuous weather, the wind con-
tinuing to the Weftward ; on which I determined to ftand
well to the Southward, by which means, after running
down. our Southing, we were certain of gaining, either
from a Southerly or Wefterly wind.
Our latitude at noon on the 30th was 56° 53” South,
and the longitude 63° 35° Weft. A number of very large
albetrofles, and many {mall pieces of rockweed, were
feen about the fhip. As I was apprehenfive that a cur-
rent fet us to the Eaftward, I fteered South Weft. when.
the wind permitted.
Tue weather, which for fome days ‘had been very
flormy, now ‘grew moderate, and we had light breezes
from the Sduthward, attended with a thick fog and driz-
zling rain. This morning I ftruck a very remarkable fith;
the hind part and tail were exactly like thofe of a hark,
and
47
CHAP.
Ul.
eS
1786.
January.
Friday 27:
Sunday 20;
Monday 302-
February,
Wednef, 1,
4s
yA Pe.
iit.
see
1786.
February.
Wednef. 1.
Friday 3.
Saturday 4.
Sunday 5.
Monday 6.
Ale N OW AAG Ey TOR W Ere
and its nofe had the refemblance of a porpoife. I fhould
gladly have got this fifh on board, that I might have been
able to defcribe it more minutely; but in ftruggling he
extricated himfelf from the harpoon, after being ftruck
near half a minute.
Tue morning of the 3d being clear and the weather
fine, I took this opportunity of getting the feamen’s chefts
up, and had the fhip well cleaned and {craped. fore and
aft, and thoroughly aired with fires. Towards noon it
grew cloudy, and a ftrong gale came on at North Weft,
attended with {qualls, which increafed to a violent degree
towards night; this caufed us to hand the topfails and
forefail, and bring-to under a reefed mainfail, fore and
mizen ftayfails. The morning of the 4th was more mo-
derate, but the wind ftill blew a frefh gale from the
Weftward. An obferved diftance of the fun and moon
gave 68° 1 Weft longitude, the latitude was 60° 19
South. |
On the 5th I ordered the people one pound and a half
of frefh pork a man, in addition to their allowance of
falt provifions, together with an extra half allowance of ©
brandy : this, and every indulgence in my power, I gave
them with the greateft pleafure, as their behaviour has
given me great fatisfaction ever fince they have been under
my command.
In 60°.9' South latitude, and 70° 13’ Weft longitude,
the mean refult of fix azimuths gave 26° 19° Eafterly va-
riation. Being now well to the Southward, I fteered Weft
by South whenever the wind permitted.
We
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
WE continued our voyage yen making much pro-
grefs, as the wind was generally in the Weftern board,
blowing frefh and in fqualls; the weather very ftorm
and unfettled. Our latitude at noon on the 18th was
55° 31 South, and the mean refult of feveral lunar ob-:
fervations gave 8 2° 22° Weft longitude.
Durine this interval every change of wind was pre-
ceded by a fudden {quall, which generally was of fhort
continuance, and fucceeded by. a calm: not being able to
carry topgallant-fails in fuch critical weather, I kept the
yards down, and the topgallant-mafts ftruck clofe down
to the topfail-yards, fwaying them up, or lowering them
down, as we had occafion to. take reefs in the topfails :
iadbed I find this method of great advantage to the fhip,
not only as it ferves to eafe the topmaft-heads, but makes
her hold a much better wind.
- On the 22d, the weather being very fine, I ordered the
failors hammocks to be brought upon deck and their bed~-
clothes to be well aired; being well affured that inattention
to things of this nature often occafions fatality amongft fea-
men. Our obfervation at noon gave 54° 4 South latitude,
and the longitude by lunar obfervation was 81° 19° Weft;
in this fituation we found the variation to be 22° 56° Eaft-
erly. We ftill had {qually unfettled weather with North-
erly and Wefterly winds.
“In the afternoon of the 25th avery ftrong gale came on
at North Weft; notwithftanding which we were under the
neceflity of carrying more fail than the fhip could’
well
49
© METAS.
MT,
Qn eet
1786.
February.
Saturday 18.
Wednef. 22.
Saturday 25.
50
GEE VAP,
Tiley
CR,
1786.
February.
Saturday 25.
Tuefday 28.
March.
Sunday 5.
Tuefday 7.
A VOYAGE TO THE
well bear, in order to prevent our being driven to the
Eaftward.
Ir is the general opinion of navigators that South Weft.
winds prevail in this part of the Pacific Ocean conftantly,
but we have experimentally found this opinion to be
erroneous; the wind for a confiderable time paft has blown
from the Northward ‘and Weftward ; generally in ftrong
gales attended with f{qualls.
In the morning of the 28th fome feals were feen about
the fhip; a parcel of rockweed and the branch of a tree
were floating in the fea. Our latitude was 52° 20° South,
and the longitude 83° 59° Weft; we here found 19° as
Eafterly variation. The wind fill continued Wefterly ;
frequently blowing a frefh gale, with hazy weather; how-
ever, the 5th of March proving very fine, I ordered the
{hip to be well cleaned between decks, and properly aired
with good fires. At that time we were in 45° 58° South
latitude, and 80° 45° Weft longitude *. During the late
tempeftuous weather the water had found its way into the
fail-room, and our fpare fails and canvafs were much wet :
the weather on the 7th being pretty favourable, they were
got upon deck and well aired ; the fame opportunity was
taken to repair our rigging, fome of which was much
damaged.
For fome days paft the wind had inclined to the South-
ward, and I began to conceive hopes that we fhould be
* The longitude being invariably Weft, no diftinction will be made hereafter, in
order to avoid repetition.
favoured
Io
ice)
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
' favoured with a fteady breeze at South Weft or South South
Weft, efpecially as we had a prodigious {well from. that
quarter, and. the clouds moved brifkly towards the North
Eaft; but now it again hauled to the Weftward. Indeed ap-
pearances of this nature are not to be depended on in
thefe feas, as we have been regularly difappointed in them,
for three weeks paft. ‘Towards noon the water changed
colour and had the appearance of foundings; if fo, it
muft be a confiderable diftance from thore, our latitude
being 44° 20° South, and the longitude 79° 49.
On the roth we had 10° 41’ Eafterly variation, yee on
the rath it was 15° 7’ Eaft. As the variation had gra-~
dually been decreafing for fome time paift, I cannot .ac-.
count for fo material a difference, except that on the roth
we were rather more to the Eaftward, and confequently
nearer the land, which poflibly might he fome effect on
the compafs. The wind {till continued to the Weftward, and
brought on’ fo thick a fog that we feldom {aw each sass :
yet we were fortunate enough not to part company. On
the rsth, the weather clearing. up, we got a meridian
altitude, which gave 42° 14’ South latitude; the longitude
by lunar obfervation was 85° 4’, and the variation 12° 3” Eaft.
Tue fog was fucceeded by fqually unfettled weather,
with frequent heavy rains, and. fometimes light fnow
ftorms, which, however, were of fhort duration, and the
weather gradually became temperate and pleafant, but the
wind ftill continued to the Northward and Weltward.
On the arft the latitude was 36°17’ South,.and. the
mean refult of feveral fets of human aT ON tions gave |
Fi 2 "8°
gi
CHUA Pp.
Mi.
bere a
786.
March.
Tuefday 7.
Friday 10,
Sunday 12.
Wednef, 15,
Tuefday 21,
52
ChE (ArP.
DUT Oi
ed
1786.
March.
Tnefday 21.
Saturday 25.
Aj OVO.) AL Gly vO) a4 Aue
88° 4’ longitude. In,the afternoon I fent a boat on board
the Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon; he came on board
the King George, and we determined to ftand on dire&ly
for Los Majos, an ifland difcovered by the Spaniards, and
fituated about 20° North latitude, and 135° longitude.
This ifland being very little out of our track,’ induced me
to fteer for it, as there was a probability of meeting with
a good harbour and water; fo that we fhould be able to
refit our veffels and refrefh the crews, without running
down to the Sandwich Iflands, which were confiderably
out of our courfe. At the fame time we appointed
Owhyhee as our place of rendezvous in cafe of feparation
before we arrived at Los Majos; there to wait for each
other ten days; and if not joined during that time; to fail
for King George’s Sound.
On the 25th, being in 32° 28’ South latitude, and
g1° 51 longitude, we had a moderate fteady breeze at
Eaft South Eaft, with very fine weather, and I began to
entertain hopes that we had. fallen in with a trade-wind.
This forenoon the fhip was well {craped fore and aft, aired
with fires, and afterwards wafhed with vinegar ; cyder was
alfo ferved to the people at the rate of a pint a man, be-
fides their ufual allowance of fpirits.
Wiru a light Eafterly breeze we fteered North Weft by.
Weft; and at fix o’clock in the afternoon a fail was feen
from the maft-head, or a rock which had greatly the ap-
pearance of one, bearing North Weft by Weft half Weit..
Not being certain whether what we had feen really was aveffel,
I changed our courfe to Weft by North, and ftood under
an eafy fail; fo that we could eafily haul our wind in fale
12 of
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
of danger during the night; but foon after nine o'clock
our doubts were changed inito certainty; for we plainly
perceived the object in doubt to be either a brig or a fnow,
ftanding to the Southward. The Queen Charlotte, on
feeing this veffel, fhewed a light, and on our anfwering it,
the ftrange fail hoifted a light, and tacked to the North-
ward. By this time fhe was rather abaft our larboard
beam ; and as IJ did not think it prudent to make ourfelves,
or our bufinefs, known to ftrangers, I kept on my courfe,
and by half paft ten o’clock we loft fight of her. There
is reafon to fuppofe that this ftrange fail was a Spanifh
veffel, and from her plying to the Southward, fhe cer-
tainly was bound either to Baldivia or Conception on the
coaft of Chili; though I was rather furprifed at meeting
with a veffel of this defcription in fuch a fituation; we
being at this time 300 leagues from the coatt..
We continued our courfe to the North Weft, without
meeting with any thing worthy of notice. On the ad of
Apal we were well within the tropics, our latitude being
21° 44" South. At the fame time, the longitude by lunar
obfervation was 102° 9°, and the variation 4° 58’ Eait
From this till the roth we had little variety: that after-
noon we pafled a turtle, and being very anxious to procure
a frefh meal for my fhip’s: crew, I brought the fhip to, and:
ordered. the whale-boat to; be lowered. down, and fent Mr.
M‘Leod, my firft mate, after it. He brought it on board,.
but it had, been dead fome time, and was almoft in a ftate of
putrefaction; fo that we threw it overboard, and were
much difappointed in our expected dainty. However, to
make us. fome amends for this. difappointment, we. picked.
uP
53
Cc _ ra P2
espe
1786.
March.
Saturday zs.
Monday to.
54
CH A P.
Il.
Cee a
1786,
April.
Saturday 15.
A VOYAGE TO THE
up a very lively one on the 15th, which weighed fixty-five
pounds, and was caught juft in time for us to celebrate
Eafter, the next day being Eafter Sunday.
Tus cyder, which had been regularly ferved to the thip’s
company for fome time paft, being expended, I ordered
fome fweet wort to be made, and ferved out at the rate of
_ half a pint per man each day. Our latitude at noon was
Thurfday zo.
Saturday 22.
7° 4 South, and 111° 59° longitude.
We faw a large flock of white birds about the fize of a
tern, and which’I am inclined to think are of the fame fpe-
cies with thofe we met with in great abundance at Chrift-
mas Ifland during captain Cook’s laft voyage. Several
turtle paffed us, and great numbers of dark-coloured birds
were flying about. From thefe appearances I conjectured
we were pafling near fome land; but, though the day was
clear, we could fee nothing of the kind from the maft
head. |
On the 20th we croffed the equator, in 115° 10’ longi-
tude; the variation here was 3° 28° Eaft.
In the latitude of 3° 33 North, longitude 116° 35’, we
found a current fetting to the Eaftward, at the rate of one
mile anda half per hour, inwhich I changed our courfe from
North North Weft to North Weft half Weft. A crofs’
{well from every dire@tion inclined me to think that we
were rather too near the great bay of Panama. However,
I was under the neceflity of keeping well to the Eaft-
ward, that we might be enabled to fetch the iflands Los:
Majos, which, fhould they afford good water, and fome
other
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
other. refrefhments, may be hereafter of the greateft im-
portance to any fhips coming round Cape Horn to the
Weftern coaft of America, as they lie direétly in the track
for that coaft, and confequently are more conveniently
fituated than the Sandwich iflands. +
I wap conceived hopes, that when the South Eaft trade
wind left us, it would have been fucceeded by that at
North Kaft; but we did not get a fteady North Eaft trade
till the 1ft of May in 8° 53” North latitude, and 120° 29’
longitude. i tet
Durine this interval, we had light variable winds and
calms by turns, with clofe fultry weather and frequent
heavy rains. Notwithftanding every precaution, the feurvy
made its appearance amoneft us; and the boatfwain in par-
ticular was fo bad for fome days, that I almoft defpaired of
his recovery; but it fortunately happened, that fome {mall
fallad, fuch as muftard and crefles, which I had fown in
feveral cafks of mould procured at Falkland’s Hlands, was
now in great perfection. I planted fome horfe-radifh ina.
cafk before we left England, which was in an improving
ftate, and fome potatoes, planted fince we left Faikland’s
Iflands, began to {prout very finely. Thefe things were
given to the boatfwain, and they had evety good effec
that could be wifhed; they checked the diforder, and- he
began to recover his health daily. This unwholefome
weather had. likewife affe@ed the health of feveral feamen-
on board the Queen Charlotte; and captain Dixon in par-
ticular being very bad, I went on board the Queen Char-
lotte, and found his. diforder to be the feurvy.. At my re-
turn,. I fent him a cafk of fine mould, with fallad grow-.
ing
55
@; HA’ PF
Ill.
Na ad
1786.
April.
Saturday 22.
May.
Monday 1.
Sunday 7.
Friday 12.
A937 iN 40 YOA‘'@E OT Or SEE
‘ing in it, together with fome krout, garden feeds, and a
_ few bottles of artificial mineral water, which was prepared
by Dr. Melville, in imitation of Seltzer water, and fup-
pofed to be a moft excellent antifcorbutic. We frequently
caught turtle, which were conftantly ferved out amongft the
fhip’s company, and I fent fome on board the Queen Char-
lotte. This, with the addition of krout, portable foup,
and {weet-wort, contributed greatly to preferve the health
of the fhips crews.
In the forenoon of the 7th, we were near the fituation of
the ifland Partida, according to captain Cook’s general chart,
but no appearances of land were feen. Indeed, this ifland was
not feen by captain Cook, but copied into that chart from
the authority of the Spaniards.
Towarps noon the wind inclining more to the North-
ward, we fteered North North Weft, in order that we
might get into the latitude of Los Majos, without being
to the Weftward of it, which I was afraid might be the
cafe, if the wind hauled to the Northward as we increafed
our latitude.
On the rath, being in the latitude of 20° 1’ South,
and 134° 11 eS I expected to have fallen in witli
the Los Majos iflands, as we were now exactly in the
centre of them, according to the chart juft mentioned, but
not the leaft appearance of land was to be feen. The
fickly fituation of our people rendered it however abfo-
lutely neceflary for us to make land as foon as poffible ; on
which account we lay-to in the night-time, and fpread
during the day; fo that (as we were favoured awith ne
clear
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 57
clear weather, and a fteady breeze) it was impoffible for © 4 ”
us to mifs them if they really exifted. Vy
fe
We ftood to the Weftward between 19° 46’ and 20°
North latitude, till the 15th, by which time we were Monday 15.
confiderably to the Weftward of Los Majos, but no fuch
iflands were to be found. On which I determined to ftand
direétly for the Sandwich Iflands, as there was a certainty
of our procuring whatever refrefhments we wanted.
Tue {curvy now attacked a number of the fhip’s crew.
The firft fymptoms were a ftiffnefs about the knees and
hams, afterwards the fhin-bones became fore; and in a
few days thofe parts which before were fff began to {well
and turn black, and the mouth grew fore. My boatfwain
had all thefe appearances to a great degree, attended with a
- fever and a violent pain in his head, notwithftanding which
he recovered in a furprifing manner.
As I never knew an inftance of a perfon recovering
from an advanced ftage of the fcurvy whilft at fea, I thall
take the liberty of mentioning the regimen he was under
during his illnefs, efpecially as it may be of great fervice
to perfons in the fame fituation. Befides the afliftance he
received from Mr. Hogan my furgeon, who was very {kil-
ful in his profeflion, he had for breakfaft a pint of fweet
wort, with fome foft bread, which I ordered to be made
for him. About ten o’clock he gathered fome {mall fallad
from the little garden I have juft mentioned; this he ate
with vinegar; for dinner he had portable foup with bar-
ley, celery feed, muftard, crefs, and rape feed boiled in
it; befides which, he ate plentifully of krout. Thefe
I
things
58
CHAP.
‘TI.
|
1786.
May.
Monday 15.
Tuefday 23.
Wednef. 24.
AV OF AsGeR? OD Or IVa F
things had fo good an effeé, that in a fortnight he was
able to do his duty as ufual: Captain Dixon likewife grew
better, though flowly ; and he attributed this favourable
turn in his diforder chiefly to the mineral water prepared
by Dr. Melville; a few bottles of which I fent him, as al-
ready has been related.
Wiru a fine trade breeze we fteered Weft by South, in
order to make Owhyhee, the principal of the Sandwich
Iflands. Our latitude on the 23d was 19° ro’ North, and
153° 21 longitude. In this fituation we found a current
fetting to the Southward.
I rxpecTep to have made the land before night came
on; but towards evening the weather turned very hazy,
on which we fhortened fail, and brought-to during the
night. At daylight in the morning of the 24th, we
bore away and made fail, and at feven o'clock Owhyhee
made its appearance, the Eaft point bearing North Weft
by Welt, about fix (Powe: diftant. Soon afore: hav-
ing an uninterrupted view of the ifland, I kept away
along fhore down the South fide, and at noon the Eaft
point bore North half Weft, three leagues diftant. The
Eaft and South Eaft parts of this ifland appear fer-
tile and very pleafant ; but that part which lies South
and South Weft is quite barren, and feems to be covered
with a kind of lava. |
By two o'clock, being within three miles of the land,
and running along fhore with a moderate breeze, a num-
ber of the natives came off in their canoes, and brought
with them fome {mall hogs and a few plantains, a ads
{ bought
4
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 59
TI bought for beads and fmall pieces of iron. A num- © #4 P
ber of their fifhing lines were purchafed, many of which —~—~
were from three to four hundred fathoms long, and May.
perfeétly well made. Some were made with two and ““"* **
others with three ftrands, and much ftronger than our
lines of twice the fize..
60
CH VA OP,
IV.
i. J
1736.
Msy.
Wednel. 24.
Thurfday 25.
AMO WAGE T OUMNTE
© Bek Pec iv.
Range along the Coaft of Owhyhee.—Arrival in Karaka-
kooa Bay.—Unruly Behaviour of the Natives.—Leave
Karakakooa Bay.—Refrefbments procured along the
Coaft.— Difappointed in coming to anckor at Morotoi.—
Arrive at Woahoo.—Fruitle/s Search for a Watering-
place.—Supplied with Water by the Natives.—Refrefb-
ments obtained.—Departure from Woahoo.— Account of
the prefent Government among ft the Sandwich Iflands.
—Pa/s Atoui.—Arrival at Onechow.—Tranfaétions
there.
Borie Indians traded with cheerfulnefs, and did not
fhew any difpofition to aé difhoneftly: after dif-
pofing of every thing they had got to fell, and viewing
the fhip all round, they returned to the fhore perfeély
well pleafed. As Karakakooa Bay was the only harbour
we knew of at Owhyhee, I determined to make it as foon
as poflible ; and at eleven o’clock in the forenoon of the
‘25th we paffed the South point ; but foon afterwards the
wind grew variable, and frequently blew in f{qualls.
Durine the afternoon we ftood to the Northward along
the Weft fide of the ifland; and being well in with the
land, a number of canoes came off, bringing hogs and
other refrefhments, which we chiefly purchafed with fmall
pieces of iron. I had conceived hopes that we fhould
have
‘
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
have come to anchor in Karakakooa Bay this evening ; but.
there was very little wind, and that little was unfavour-
able: indeed the trade-wind is not to be expected after
hauling round theSouth point of the ifland, as the high land
to the Eaftward entirely breaks it off, and light breezes
prevail from the Northward and Weftward.
Soon after the day was clofed in we obferved a great
number of fires all along fhore, and I was inclined to
think they were lighted in order to alarm the country:
indeed it is cuftomary for the natives at this ifland to light
fires when they make offerings to their gods for fuccefs in
war; and this might poflibly be the cafe at prefent; but I
had obferved a fhynefs in the natives the nearer we ap-
proached Karakakooa; they frequently- enquired after
captain King, and feemed by their behaviour to think that
we were come to revenge the death of captain Cook.
Soon after daylight on the 26th, Karakakooa bore North
Eaft by Eaft, about fix leagues diftant ; and a light breeze
fpringing up at North Weft, we ftood in for the bay. In
the forenoon an inferior chief came on board, from whom
I learned that Tereeoboo, who was king of Owhyhee
when we laft were at that ifland, was dead; and that the
prefent king’s name was Maiha Maiha. He importuned me
very ftrongly to go on fhore ; but on my declining it, and
making him a prefent, he informed me that Maiha Maiha
would pay me a vifit on the morrow; but I paid little re-
gard to this piece of intelligence, as it was not likely that
Maiha Maiha would venture on board after the adtive part
he took in that unfortunate affray which terminated in the
much-lamented death of captain Cook.
MANY
64
Ci Hear?
iV.
ae a
1786.
May.
Thurfday 25.
Fricay 26.
62
CHAP.
IV.
AYV OYA GE OCT OTH E
Many canoes now came along-fide, and the people
“~~ were very importunate to come on board; they behaved in
17
May.
Friday
y
26.
a very daring infolent manner; and it was with difficulty
they were prevailed on to quit the fhip; however, I bore
all this with patience, being unwilling to ufe violence if it
could poffibly be avoided; though at the fame time I was
much afraid from thefe appearances, that we fhould not
be able to do our bufinefs at Karakakooa with eafe and
fafety, particularly to fill our water and get the fick people
on fhore.
As we approached the harbour, great numbers of canoes
joined us, and many of them hanging by the fhip, re-
tarded our progrefs fo much, that it was near four o'clock
in the afternoon before we came to ananchor. I moored.
with the beft bower to the Weftward in nine fathom water,
over a bottom of white fand, and the fpare anchor to the
Eaftward, in feven fathom, over the fame bottom. The
Weit point of the bay bore Weft, and the South point
South half Weft, diftant from the beach at the bottom
of the bay about a quarter of a mile.
Soon after our anchor was gone, we were furrounded
by an amazing number of the natives, both in canoes and
in the water; they grew very troublefome, conftantly
crawling up the cable and the fhip’s fides; fo that moft of
the feamen were employed in keeping the veffel clear, and
it was not without fome difficulty that we got moored.
Durine this time no chief who had any command on
the people made his appearance, which was rather unfor-
tunate; for if I could have got a perfon of confequence
On
’
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
on board, he. would have kept the reft in order, and our
bufinefs would have been carried on with eafe and. dif-
patch.
In the courfe of the afternoon we procured a number
of fine hogs, and a good quantity of falt,. together with
plantains, potatoes, and, taro,| which Jlaft. was the ‘fneft I
ever faw, and not in the leaft inferior to yams: _bread-fruit
was fcarce, and the little: we got was not ina perfeé
ftate; fo that I conclude this is not the proper feafon
for it. ;
Ar night fires were lighted all round the bay, and the
people on fhore were in conftant motion ; feveral canoes
continued near the fhip, and about midnight one of the
natives brought off a lighted torch, feemingly with an in-
tention of fetting fire to the veffel: on our driving him
away, he paddled to the Queen Charlotte, but there they
were equally on their guard; on which he again went on
fhore.
By daylight the next morning we were vifited by a vaft
multitude of the natives; but ftill no chief was to be feen
who had power fufficient to keep them in order, and they
grew fo daring and infolent, that I was under the neceflity
of placing centinels with cutlafles to prevent their board~
ing us. x
Tus unexpected reception convinced me that we could
do nothing with fafety on fhore without the protection of
a ftrong guard; and our taking a ftep of that kind might
probably be attended with fatal confequences ; fo that I
deter-
63
CHA P.
ean eP
1786.
May.
Friday 26.
Saturday 27.
CHAP.
IV.
1786.
May.
Saturday 27.
BROMO Y AGE) TO THE
determined to leave Karakakooa as foon as poflible. 1
acquainted captain Dixon with my intention of failing,
and the reafons I had for it: his opinion refpeéting the
difpofition of the inhabitants exaétly agreed with my own.
NotTwITHsTANDING the vaft concourfe of Indians that
were affembled about the fhips, we faw great numbers col-
leéted in bodies on fhore ; fome on the beach, and others
on the top of a hill which commands the watering-place ;
and there appeared to be many chiefs among them.
Ar nine o'clock I gave orders to unmoor, but the crowd
of people around the fhip was fo great, that our boats
could fcarcely pafs to the buoys: in this fituation it was
abfolutely neceflary for us to drive them away, and I was
defirous of ufing fome method that would frighten, with~
out hurting them; accordingly, after drawing out the
fhot, we fired fix four-pounders and fix fwivels; at the
fame time our colours were hoifted, and the thip tabooed,
by hoifting a white flag at the main-topgallant-maft-head :
this had the defired effe& ; for, immediately on our be-
ginning to fire, the Indians made for the fhore with the
utmoft precipitation; in the hurry and confufion oc-
cafioned by this alarm, many canoes were overfet; the
owners, however, did not ftay to right them, but fwam
immediately on fhore.
We now had an opportunity of unmooring without mo-
leftation, and foon after eleven o'clock, having light
baffling winds, began to warp out of the bay to the Weft-
ward ; at five o’clock, judging myfelf in a good fituation
to wait for the land-breeze, which ufually blows off to-
wards
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
wards evening, we let go an anchor, and prefently were
vifited by a number of canoes, who brought us fome good
hogs, a quantity of falt, and vegetables of various kinds.
Ar feven o’clock a breeze fpringing up from the land,
we weighed and ftood to the South Weft until our dif-
tance from Karakakooa was about three leagues: I then
brought-to, with an intention of ftanding off and on for
twenty-four hours, in order to traffic with the natives;
being convinced that it is the beft and fafeft method of
procuring any refrefhments the ifland of Owhyhee affords.
Earty next morning we were furrounded by canoes,
and a brifk trade commenced, in the courfe of which we
purchafed a number of fine hogs, and vegetables of va-
rious kinds. Many of our people were employed in kill-
ing and falting down hogs for fea-ftore; our prefent {itu-
ation being. much better calculated for carrying on that
bufinefs than in harbour; for now we had a fine free air,
whereas in Karakakooa Bay the weather is fo extremely
clofe and fultry, that there is a great probability of the
meat being fpoiled even after; it is falted.
Ar noon we were f{tanding along fhore to the Northward,
with a light wefterly breeze.and fine weather.’ Karaka-
kooa Bay then bore Eaft half South, diftant three leagues,
and the high land of Mowee North Nerth Weft.
Many canoes ftill kept about the fhips, and fome of
the natives brought off water in calabafhes, which we
purchafed for nails... Indeed water now began, to be an
article of the firft confequence to us; our 52d butt being
K a-broach,
65
CoH .A.yP.
Iy.
1786,
May.
Saturday 27.
Sunday 28.
66
CeHvAr?:
IV.
Se aed
1786.
May.
Sunday 28.
Monday 29.
Tuefday 30.
A VOYAGE TO THE
a-broach, and there was as yet no certainty of our wa-
tering amongft thefe iflands: the refrefhments, how-
ever, that we already had procured, were of great fervice
to the fick people, all of whom daily got better.
Durine the night we ftood off and on, with variable
winds and hazy weather. In the morning of the 29th
the Southernmoft part of Owhyhee in fight bore South
South Eaft half Eaft, twelve leagues diftant; the North-
ernmoft part North by Eaft, ten leagues ; and the body of
Mowee North North Weft half Weft, nine leagues diftant.
The natives of Owhyhee ftill followed the veffels with
hogs and vegetables, and we ftood to the North North
Weft under an eafy fail, that the canoes might be enabled
to keep up.with us.
Ar fix o’clock in the afternoon a frefh breeze fprung
up at North Eaft, which brought on a crofs {well, and
obliged all the canoes to leave us and make for the fhore.
Durine the night we had frefh gales and cloudy
weather, which occafioned us to fhorten fail and tack
occafionally. Towards morning the weather moderated.
At eight o’clock Mowee bore from North half Eaft to
Eaft North Eaft, diftant four leagues, and the Weft end
of Ranai North North Weft, two leagues diftant.
Tue unfettled ftate of the weather, and the uncertainty
of our being able to water the fhips at thefe iflands, induced
me to put the fhip’s company to an allowance of water, at
the rate of two quarts a-man a-day. ‘Towards noon a
few canoes came off from Ranai, but brought nothing of
qty
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
any confequence to barter. At three o'clock, being about
one mile and a half from fhore, we founded with a line
of roo fathom, but got no bottom. The Wefternmotft
point of Morotoi now bore North Weft by Welt, eight
or nine leagues diftant ; and foon afterwards a frefh breeze
coming on at North Eaft, I ftood direGly over for that
ifland: by fix o’clock the Weft end, which is low and
rocky, bore North Weft, diftant three leagues; and I had
fome hopes of getting round the point, and anchoring in
a bay fituated on the Weft fide of Morotoi, but the breeze
rather failing, we had not daylight fufficient to accom-
plifh our purpofe; on this, we hauled up the courfes
and brought-to, the Queen Charlotte being confiderably
aftern.
Ar half paft feven o'clock, the Queen Charlotte being
well up, we filled and ftood to the South Eaft under the
topfails; at the fame time the Weft point of Morotoi bore
North Weft two leagues, and the Eafternmoft point North
Eaft, fix leagues diftant.
Ar three o’clock next morning we wore and ftood in
for the land ; but when daylight came on, I was greatly
furprifed to find that we had been driven in the night
eight or nine leagues to the South Weft; fo that inftead
of fetching in with the Weft point of Morotoi, as I ex-
pected, the wind being well to the Eaftward, I found we
{carcely fhould be able to weather the Eaft point of Woa-
hoo, round which we knew there was anchorage.
Turse difappointments mortified me a good deal; as‘I
was very defirous to look for water in the bay on the Weft
Kig fide
67
C H ADP.
IV.
Ne ad
1786.
May.
Tuefday 30.
Wednef. 313
68
AAT OUY A GLE? FT OUT HE
¢ HA Pe fide of Morotoi, where, from the appearance of the land,
-—— it was likely we fhould find fome. Had that plan Faled.,
» 1786,
May.
Wednel, 31.
we then fhould have been able to get round the Eaft point
of Woahoo with a large wind; but finding now that it
would be a work of fome days to get in with the Welt
end of Morotoi, I gave it up, and ftood for the Eaft point
of Woahoo, which then bore North Weft, under alt the
fail we could carry, with a moderate breeze at Eaft North
sEaft. For fome time appearances were oreatly in our fa—
vour. Indeed I believe we fhould eafily have fetched round
-the point; but about ten o’clock, the Queen Charlotte
being a confiderable way. on our lee quarter, I was
afraid fhe would not be able to weather the ifland, as I
could plainly perceive we had a {trong current fetting to
the South Weft. On this we tacked and ftood towards her,
and foon afterwards wore and ftretched to the Northward..
Jaft at this time the wind hauled round to the Eaftward,,
and we again ftood on, in hopes of fetching our intended
fituation. However, about half paft eleven o’clock, the
Queen Charlotte drove in fhore, and captain Dixon find-
ing he could not weather the point, tacked, which occa-
fioned us to tack immediately afterwards. At noon, the
outermoft rock off the North Eaft point of Woahoo. bore
North North Weft about four leagues, and the Southern-
moft part of the ifland in fight South Weft half Wedft, five
miles diftant.
Tue ifland of Woahoo between the South Eaft and
North Eaft points appears high and craggy, forming into
feveral high rocks, within which there appears to be to~
lerable fhelter; but as the wind blew frefh, and right on
fhoze,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
69
fhore, I did not think it prudent to run in with alee © HAP
fhore to look for anchorage.
——
1786.
June.
We plied in this uncertain ftate till noon on the r{t of Thurfday 1
June, when finding it would be impradticable for us to
get round the North Eaft point of the ifland without
wafting more time than could be fpared, we bore away
for the South Eaft point; and at one o’clock being well
up with it, a fine bay made its appearance, which pro-
mifed to afford good anchorage. We hauled round the
point, and ftood in for the bay. Soon afterwards, the
whale-boat was lowered down, and fent in fhore to found.
At half paft two o’clock we came to an anchor in the bay,
‘which I diftinguifhed by the name of King George’s Bay,
in twelve fathom water, over a bottom of {peckled fand
-and broken fhells, and moored with the beft bower to the
Eaftward, and a kedge to the Weftward. ‘The Eaft point
of the bay, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Point
Dick, in honour of Sir John Dick, the firft patron of
this voyage, bore Eaft by North one mile and a half; the
Welt point, which was named Point Rofe, after George
Rofe Efq. fecretary of the treafury, the fecond worthy
patron of our undertaking, bore Weft South Weft half
Weft, about two leagues, and the bottom of the bay North,.
two miles diftant.
Soon after our arrival, feveral: canoes came off and
brought a few cocoa-nuts and plantains, fome fugar-cane
and fweet root; in return for which we gave them
fmall pieces of iron and a few trinkets. Towards even-
ing, a frefh breeze coming on at Eaft North Eaft, our vi-
fiters left us, and returned on fhore.
Next
40 A VOYAGE TO THE
CHAP. Next morning at daylight we had feveral canoes about
awe” «the fhip, which brought us a few {mall hogs and fome
widin: vegetables. Great numbers of both fexes were in the
“7 water, impelled by curiofity to pay us a vifit, notwith-
ftanding our diftance from fhore.
As watering the fhips was now become an object of the
firft confideration, I went on fhore early in the morning,
accompanied by captain Dixon, in order to find out a
convenient fpot for that purpofe. We landed on fome
rocks juft round Point Dick, quite dry, and met with no
oppofition from the inhabitants; on the contrary, they
received us with great kindnefs, and anfwered every quef-
tion we afked them very readily. On our inquiring
for frefh water, they conduéed us to fome, which was
lodged in a kind of bafon, formed by the rocks, about
fifty yards from the place where we landed; but the
quantity was fo {mall, that it would not afford even a tem-
porary fupply. On this we continued our inquiries along
fhore, and were informed that there was no frefh water to
be met with but at a confiderable diftance to the Weftward.
Arter making the Indians fome trifling prefents, we re-
turned to the boats, and rowed to the Northward, clofe
to a reef, which appeared to run quite acrofs the bay,
about a quarter of a mile diftant from the beach. Having
proceeded nearly a mile in this dire@tion, a {mall opening
in the reef prefented itfelf, for which we fteered. The
channel was narrow, but in the middle we had two fathoms
water; and after getting through, there was from three to
four fathoms over a bottom of fine fand, and good room
between the reef and the beach for a number of veffels
to
4
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Ve:
to ride at anchor. We landed on a fine fandy beach © #4
amidft a vaft number of the inhabitants, who all behaved aA
with great order, and never attempted to approach nearer
to us than we defired. They informed us that there was
no water near our landing-place, but that we fhould find
plenty farther down along fhore, and one of the natives
accompanied us as a guide: however, our progrefs was
foon impeded by a little falt water river that has a commu-
nication with King George’s Bay. This putting a ftop to
our progrefs by land, we again had recourfe to our boats,
and attempted to get to the Weftward within the reef; but
the water was fo fhallow that it was impra¢ticable; fo
that we returned through the paflage we came in at, and
afterwards rowed to the Weftward, keeping clofe along the
outfide of the reef, until we got near the watering-place
pointed out to us by the Indians. In this fituation, fee-
ing a fmall opening in the reef, we made for it; and the
moment we entered, a breaker overtook us, which almoft
filled and nearly overfet our boats. However, through
the good management of the fteerfmen, who were mine
and captain Winow + ened mates, we efcaped without
any misfortune; though we had the mortification, after
getting over tiie reef, to find the water fo fhoal, that our
boats could not get within 200 yards of the fhore.
Unper thefe circumftances, I found that we could not
water at this place without an infinite deal of trouble, be-
fides the danger of lofing our cafks, getting the boats
dafhed to pieces againft the rocks, and the inconvenience
of carrying our cafks fo far amongft a multitude of In-
dians, which would make it neceflary to have an armed
force on fhore, the fhips lying at too great a diftance. for
them
1786.
June.
Friday 2.
LF,
C* HA P:
if
Le -
1786.
June.
Friday 2.
Saturday 3.
AP iV)O. YeAIG EO T Oe 7 VA &
them to cover or fecure a watering party; I therefore
eave up the idea of watering at this {pot, and determined
to fend two boats the firft opportunity to examine the -
Weftern part of the bay for a good landing place and con-
venient watering.
I reTuRNED on board at noon, and found a pretty brifk
trade carrying on for {mall hogs, fugar-cane, and vege-
tables; having given orders to Mr. Hill, on my leaving the
fhip, to purchafe, every refrefhment which the natives
brought alongfide.
No time was now to be loft in coming to fome conclu-
five determination refpeting our future tranfactions; I faw
but little probability of watering the fhips with our own
boats: but captain Dixon, as well as myfelf, was of opi-
eu that the Indians might be induced to bring off water
to the fhips, fufficient at leaft for a temporary fupply. At
all events, I knew there was enough in each vefiel to ferve
near three months with proper care, but it was all in the
eround tier; I therefore determined to have all our water
got to hand, and the ground tier filled with falt water,
In the mean time, our fpare hands could be well employed
im repairing the rigging, and making the vefiels in every
refpect fit for the further profecution of our voyage, fo
foon as the crews were well refrefhed; and our prefent
fituation being the moft eligible one we knew of at thefe
iflands, we refolved not to quit it before all our bufinefs
was completed,
Earty in the morning of the 3d I difpatched Mr. Hay-
ward and Mr. White in a boat from each {hip to examine
the
8 é
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the Weft part of the bay for a landing-place and frefh wa-
ter. They likewife had orders to land, and make an ex-
curfion to that part of the ifland round Point Rofe, as
there appeared from the fhip to be a fine deep bay in that
fituation. The natives now began to bring us water pretty
brifkly, and fome of their calabafhes contained near ten
gallons; for one of thefe we gave a tenpenny nail, which
was much cheaper than we could poflibly procure the wa-
ter ourfelves, allowing for the damage our boats would
fuftain, and the prefents we fhould be obliged to make on
fhore to the chiefs.
Tue weather being very fine, our ailing people were
fent on fhore under the care of my furgeon; and as the in-
habitants had hitherto behaved in a quiet inoffenfive man-
ner, there was no great danger of their being molefted.
No chiefs of coyfequence paid us a vifit as yet: the in-
ferior chiefs indeed came on board without any fcruple,
and fome of them flept with us every night. Amongit
the reft I had a daily vifit from an old prieft, who always
brought by way of prefent, a {mall pig, and a branch of the
cocoa-nut tree. From him [ learnt, that their prefent king’s
name was Taheeterre, and that he was alfo king of Morotoi
and Mowee. ‘The old man informed me, that his refidence
was in a bay round the Weft point, and importuned me
very much to carry the fhips there, as that place, he faid,
afforded plenty of fine hogs and vegetables. Indeed; I
had fome reafon to think, that the inhabitants on'that part
of the ifland were more numerous than in Kine George’s
Bay, as I obferved moft of the double canoes came round
the Weft point; but as the people now brought us plenty
. of
73
Ci EL ACP.
TV.
a ea
1786.
June.
Saturday 3.
74+
Ay i) VO: YA Gy ye: ay ate
CHAP. of water, I determined to keep my prefent fituation, it
1786.
June.
' Saturday 3.
Sunday 4.
being in many refpects a very eligible one; for we hitherto
had been favoured with a moft refrefhing fea breeze, which
blows over the low land at the head of the bay; and the
bay all round has a very beautiful appearance, the low
land and vallies being in a high ftate of cultivation, and
crowded with plantations of taro, fweet potatoes, fugar-
cane, &c. interfperfed with a great number of cocoa-nut
trees, which renders the profpeé& truly delightful.
In the afternoon the boats returned, and Mr. Hayward
reported that he had landed in the Weft part of the bay,
where he found a pond of ftanding water;. but it was very
inconveniently fituated, and could not be got at without
difficulty. He afterwards walked up toa rifing ground,
from which he could perceive the land round the Weft
point of King George’s Bay to fall in and form a fine deep
bay running well to the Northward, and the Weftmoit
land ftretching out to the Southward: this however by
no means induced me to change our fituation..
Towarps evening the furgeon returned on board with the
convalefcents, and informed me, that the inhabitants had
behaved in a very quiet inoffenfive manner, though they
were rather incommoded by the multitudes which curiofity
brought about them.
_ By this time all our water from the ground tier was got
to hand, and the cables coiled down. The inhabitants
now brought us water in fuch plenty, that by noon on the
4th all our empty cafks were filled, having procured twenty-
nine butts, eight hogfheads, and three brandy-pieces, which
contained
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
contained 130 gallonseach. As good water in any quan-
tity may be procured. at this ifland with the greateft faci-
lity for {mall nails and buttons, it undoubtedly muft be
the fafeft and moft expeditious method any perfon can
adopt who may chance to touch here, to barter for their
water in the manner we did. Potatoes and taro are like.
wife met with here in great plenty, but I never obferved
any bread-fruit, and {carcely any yams; fo that there is
reafon to fuppofe they are not cultivated by the inhabitants
of Woahoo.
Havine completed our water, and procured fuch refrefh-
ments as Woahoo afforded, I determined to proceed to
Oneehow without lofs of time, in order to get a fupply of
yams, which I knew that ifland produced in great plenty
and perfe@ion. Accordingly, at feven o’clock in the
morning of the 5th, we weighed and ftood to the Weft-
ward under an eafy fail, with a moderate breeze at North
Eaft. As we approached Point Rofe, a vaft number of
double canoes joined us, which came out of that bay to
the Weftward, feen by Mr. Hayward, and which obtained
the name of Queen Charlotte’s Bay. An excellent bay
it appears to be, ftretching well both to the Northward
and Southward. The Southern extreme forms itfelf into
a flattifh point, which I diftinguifhed by the name of
Point Banks, in honour of Sir Jofeph Banks. Point Banks
bears Weft by North from Point Rofe, diftant about twelve
miles. From each of thefe points there runs a ridge of
rocks for about three quarters of a mile; but they always
fhew themfelves by breakers, and coloured water.
»
Life WHEN
Monday ¢.
76.
Cy Ee Ay Ps
IV.
gerne,
1786.
June.
Monday 5.
Art oY 107K) Ay S sk FPO) Fy ae
Wunn we were a-breaft of Point Rofe, my old vifiter
the pricit came on board in a large double canoe;
bringing with him/a very good feathered cap, as a prefent
for me from ‘Taheeterre ; in return for which, I fent him
two large towees and fome other trifles of little value; I
alfo gave the old prieft a light-horfeman’s cap, and another
to. a young chief who had ‘almoft conftantly been on board
fince-my arrival at the ifland ; being defirous to fhew any
future navigators who Agee. happen to touch here, that
this place had recently Been vifited by Britifh fhips. My
suefts were highly delighted with their prefents, and/attc:
many profefiions of friendthip, they took their leave and
went on fhore. At noon Point Dick, which is the South
Eaft point of Weahoo, bore Eaft by North feven leagues,
and: Point Banks, the South Weft Point, North Weft half
Welt, four leagues diftant. After pafiing Point Banks,
we hauled to the North Weft, and with a moderate
Eafterly breeze, ftretched along the Weftern part of the
ifland, accompanied by feveral canoes, who brought fome
flying fith to fell, the largeft I ever faw; many of them
meafuring from ten to twelve inches in length, and thick
in proportion. Thefe fifh are caught in nets, which the
people here manage with great dexterity. |
Tue Weft fide of Woahoo is very high and uneven,
and near the fhore there appear to be feveral {mall de-
tached, iflands, within which there is a probability of meet-
ing with good anchorage. From the North Weft, to the
South Welt points, the land trends North Weft and South
Eaft, and, likewife feems to promife well for anchoring
éround ; but the day being very hazy, we were ee
rom
NORTH WEST COAST’ OF AMERICA.
from examining it diftinély. Before F quit Woahoo let
me obferve; that I think it the fineft ifland in the group,
and moft capable of being turned to advantage, were it
fettled by Europeans, than any of the reft; there being»
fcarcely a fpot which does not appear fertile. Here we
found a great number of warriors and warlike inftruments;
many of the warriors were tattooed ina manner totally dif-
ferent from any I ever took notice of amongft the Sand-
wich Hlands;, their faces were tattooed fo as to appear quite
black, belies great part of the sina get! tattooed im a
vanibhiy of forms,
Tue greateft part of the daggers left by us at thefe
iflands during our laft voyage, at prefent feem to centre
here; for we fcarcely ever faw a large canoe that the
people in her had not one a-piece ; and at Owhyhee I do
not remember feeing more than two or three.
_ As they are very dangerous and deftrudtive weapons, |
did not fuffer any to be made in either fhip, though
ftrongly importuned to it by many of the natives: indeed
I always thought it the laft voyage a very imprudent
action to furnifh the Indians with weapons which, at one
time er other, might be turned againft ourfelves; and
my fufpicions were but too well: founded; for with one
of the daggers given by us to the natives mf Owhyhee my
much, lamented. commander captaim Cook was killed ; me
but for them, that ornament to the Britifh nation might
have lived to have enjoyed the fruits of his labour in cate
and afiluence,. after a feries of years! {pent in the: fervice of
his country, and for the benefit of mankind in general :
he, however; unfortunately fet the example, by ordering
fome
77
CH AR
TVit
hee eet?
1786,
une.
Monday 5.
78
AUMOVAG E) TO Pak
cu y ® fome daggers’ to be made after the model of the Indian
——~ Pahooas; and this practice was afterwards followed by
1786.
June.
Monday s.
every perfon who could raife iron enough to make one;
fo that during our ftay at thefe iflands, the armourer was
employed to little other purpofe than in working thefe de-
ftrutive weapons; and fo liberally were they difpofed of,
that the morning we were running into Karakakooa bay,
after the Refolution had {prung her foremaft, I faw Maiha
Maiha get eight or nine daggers from captain Clarke, in
exchange for a feathered cloak; though fince our ar-
rival at Woahoo, I have purchafed fome cloaks confider-
ably better than that of captain Clarke’s, for a {mall piece
ef iron worked into the form of a carpenter’s plane-bit :
thefe the Sandwich iflanders make ufe of as adzes, and
call them towees; and to them they anfwer every purpofe
wherever an edge-tool is required.
Since the year 1778, at which time the Sandwich
Iflands were difcovered, there appears to have been an
almoft total change in their government: from every
thing I now have been able to learn, Taheeterre, the
prefent king of Woahoo, is the only furviving monarch
we left amongft the iflands at that period; he then
was king of Morotoi only; and Pereeoranne, who then
governed Woahoo, was at war with him, and had fent
anumber of fighting canoes to attack his dominions.
It feems that Pereeoranne’s forces were worfted on this
occafion ; for prefently afterwards, Taheeterre took pof-
feffion of Woahoo; and, flufhed with this fuccefs, he
attacked and conquered the ifland of Mowee; which, as
already has been obferved, is now annexed to his domi-
nions. ‘Tereeoboo, who at that time was king of Owhy-
a hee
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
hee and Mowee, fell in battle whilft defending his domi-
nions. I have no reafon to doubt the truth of thefe
relations ; for Maiha Maiha, the prefent' king of Owhyhee,
at the time we laft were there, was only am inferior chief,
and is now, as I underftand, in fome meafure fubje& to
Taheeterre ; befides. which, the Woahoo chiefs having in
their poffeflion moft of the daggers we left at Owhyhee, is a
moft convincing proof that they have been victorious; for
Iam very certain the natives at thefe iflands will never
part with their weapons but at the expence of their lives,
From the beft account our fhort ftay would. permit me to
obtain,. the principal of the Sandwich Ifles were at this
time governed by the following perfons: Woahoo, Morotoi,
and Mowee, were fubje& to Taheeterre ;, Maiha Maiha
governed. Owhyhee and Ranai; and a chief whofe name
I underftand is Ta’aao, was king of Atooi and Onechow..
Wirn a light breeze at North Fatt we firetched to
the North Weft during the afternoon, and were followed
by canoes, bringing {mall hogs and vegetables, although
eur diftance from the land was confiderable..
Ar eight o’clock in the morningof the 6th the North
part.of Woahoo bore Eaft North Eaft, nine leagues; and
— the South Weft. part South Eaft.by Eaft, ten leagues dif-
tant; the ifland of Atooi appeared in fight, bearing North.
Weft by Welt, diftant twelve leagues. We now had light
variable winds, with calms by turns; the weather very
clofe-and fultry: Our obfervation at noon gave 21° 36°
North latitude: in this fituation we founda pretty flrong
current fetting Weft North Weft.
Ar
Tuefday “6,
So
Cc HAA P.
ine
1786.
June.
Tuefday 6.
Wednel, 7.
AIMMOY AGE)OT- O80 FT HE
Ar eight o'clock the extremes of Atooi bore from
North Weft, to Weft-half North, the neareft land about five
leagues diftant. ‘The night was {pent in ftanding off and
on; as I wifhed to run well in with the South fide of
Atooi on the morrow, in order to give the natives an op-
portunity of bringing us vegetables; the ftock we pro-
cured at Woahoo beginning to run fhort.
Ar five o’clock in the morning of the 7th we bore away
and made fail with a fine breeze from the Eaftward, which
brought us by eight o’clock within two leagues of the
land.
Tue land on the Eaft and South Eaft part of Atooi,
rifes gradually from the fea-fide till it terminates in high
land, which feems fitwated near the centre of the ifland ;
thefe hills are clothed to the fummits with lofty trees,
whofe verdure has a beautiful appearance; the land next
the fhore affords a few bufhes, but feems quite unculti-
vated, and deftitute of inhabitants. °
Own the Eaftern fhore there are a few {mall fandy bays,
“but they afford no fhelter for fhips to ride in; being
quite expofed to Eafterly winds, which blow diredtly on
fhore, and generally prevail here.
Artsr pafling the South Eaft point, we found the land
cultivated in general, and houfes were fcattered here and
there all along fhore to the Weftward: by noon we had
feveral canoes about the fhip, from whom we procured a
few vegetables; but the furf ran fo high on the- beach,
8 that
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
that the natives could not bring off any confiderable
quantity.
As I knew Atoui afforded plenty of fine hogs, and a
variety of other refrefhments, we ftood on for Wymoa
Bay, where captain Cook anchored the laft voyage; as I
was defirous of procuring fome good hogs for falting, and
alfo fome to carry with me to fea. By three o’clock we
were nearly a-breaft of the bay, when the wind inclined
to the Southward, and blew fo frefh, that the anchoring-
ground was very unfafe to ride in; being entirely expofed
to Southerly winds, which fend in a heavy-crofs-fea: I
therefore did not think it prudent to truft the fhips in
fuch a fituation ; fo wore, and ftood for Oneehow, under
all the fail we could carry. At four o’clock the extremes
of Oneehow bore from North North Weft half Weft, to
South Weft by Weft, about four leagues diftant from the
neareft land.
Tue South point of this ifland forms a remarkable high
bluff, rifing on all fides to a confiderable height, and
breaking off abruptly. About five leagues to the Eaft-
ward, it has the appearance of a detached ifland, being
joined to the main by a low flip of land, which is not feen
more than three leagues diftant. At feven o’clock the
South point bore Weft by North about two miles, and the
Eafternmoft part of the ifland, North North Eaft, four
leagues diftant. Finding we had not fufficient daylight to
bring us into the bay on the Weft fide of Onechow, we
fhortened fail, and hauled on a wind to the Southward ;
intending to fpend the night in ftanding off and on. At
eleven o'clock we wore, and made the fignal to the Queen
Charlotte,
Sp
CFE AuiPs
IV.
he
1786.
June.
Wednef, 7.
82
Cer aur,
IV.
heen
bb. Be My De?
cc. Dhe Sips Track i/o He Uarbour .
Publistiat ae Medet directs by b. Stocklite 8G. Goulding June 11789.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
103
I rounp it a moft excellent one indeed, with great © #4 P.
plenty of wood every where, and feveral fine runs of wa-
ter. Fora confiderable diftance it runs up nearly Eaft
1786.
July.
South Eaft, and then bends rather to the Southward, with *"” 7"
fourteen fathoms ‘water, over a bottont of muddy fand.
The Eaft fide affording plenty of black birch, and other
kinds of wood, which grew clofe toa beach where the
boats could have eafy accefs, I fixed on it for a wooding
place, and returning immediately on board, I {ent the
carpenters to get fome fpars, and another party to cut fire-
wood. i
None of the natives as yet had made their appearance;
but as the Ruffians were conftantly on their guard for fear
of being furprifed by the Americans, I judged it prudent
that we fhould be fo likewife; and accordingly fent a cheft
with arms along with the parties on fhore. By noon we
got feveral boat loads of wood on board.
_ In the afternoon the feine was hauled at the head-of the
bay where we lay, but with little fuccefs, only a few cole-
fifh being caught. Whilft we were engaged in this bufi-
nefs, the Ruffian chief paid me a vifit, and informed me,
that the place where we hauled the feine was not ftocked
with fifth, but that near his refidence plenty might be
caught. Laccordingly took the feine thither, and in fe-
veral hauls caught about thirty falmon, and a few flat
fith. This indifferent fuccefs was owing, as my friend the
Ruffian told me, to the time of tide, it being then low
water, when, for hauling the feine, it fhould be nearly
high water. However, he affured me, if I would leave
the feine all night, and a man along with it, I fhould
have
TOs A'I\VOYAGE TO THE
CHAP. have plenty of fith the next morning: *I-embraced this
=~ offer. with great pleafure, and left one of my failors, who
iy pe had fome little knowledge of. the Ruffian language.
riday 21.
‘Tus Ruffian fettlement, if I may ‘be’ allowed to call
that one where the: refidence is only temporary, was fitu-
ated ona pleafant piece of flat land, about three miles
in length, and 200 yards ever, bounded by a good fandy
beach on one fide, and a fmall lake of frefn water, which
empties itfelf into the fea,:on the other. In this lake they
catch plenty of fine falmon. The beach terminates at
each end in high points of land, which form a {nug bay,
where {mall craft might lie with great fafety.
THE RulBaris were twenty-five in number, exclufive of
the Indians, which I now found were brought from Ko=
diac.and Oonalafka. They had two {kin boats, each cal-
culated to row twelve oars, and the thwarts were double
banked. I underftood that the chief and the Indians
took up their abode in a {mall tent covered with canvas,
and the remainder flept under the two boats juft men-
tioned.
Tuey have no bread; their diet feems to confift princi<
pally of fifh, and a mefs is made of the root of a plant,
called by Steller the Serena, which would tafte very well,
were it not rendered unpalatable, by being mixed with ani-
mal oil: they had alfo fome very good tea, :
Amonecst the party were three Indian women one of
whom I was informed came from Oonalafka, the others
from Kodiac. ;
I couLD
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
I coup perceive that they procured no furs by bar-
tering with the Americans, and that they got no fea otter
fkins, nor indeed furs of any kind, but what the Kodiac
Indians caught in hunting.
Durine my ftay amonegft the Ruffians, they were all
very bufily employed. Some were drefling green fea otter
fkins, others repairing their boats, and cleaning arms.
Moft of the Indians were out on a hunting party; the few
left behind were bufied in fitting darts to their fpears, and
making {nuff from tobacco, of which they feem very fond,
and their women in cooking and repairing canoes.
Ir was very evident that this little party were under
great apprehenfions from the Americans. Indeed, the
chief gave me te underftand, that they had attempted to
furprife them feveral times, which made it abfolutely ne-
ceflary for them to be conftantly on their guard. He told
me, that they were a fet of favage, cruel people, but fpoke
much in favour of the Oonalafka and Kodiac Indians.
Havine procured all the intelligence I could from the
Ruffian chief, I returned towards evening on board my
own veftfel.
Dourine the night the weather was very unfettled, and
the wind variable; blowing at times in heavy fqualls from
the land, with calms by turns.
Ar feven o'clock next morning I fent the whale-boat
to the Ruffian fettlement, to learn what fuccefs they had
had with the feine. The boat returned at nine o'clock,
P deeply
_igest~,
1786.
July.
Friday 21,
Saturday 22.
106
Cc 2 ie iP
A NO YA GE oT Of FE
deeply loaded, with fine falmon ; part of which I fent on
ts heeed the Queen Charlotte; and now, having a plentiful
1786.
uly.
Saturday 22.
fupply of good fifh, the people were no longer upon falt
provifions, but in ea of it had fith and yams ferved to.
them. Part of the fhip’s crew were fent to cut firewood,
and others had liberty given them to recreate themfelves
on fhore,
Towarps noon the Ruffian chief returned: my vifit,
The fervice he had rendered. us in. pointing out.a fituation
where we at any time could catch plenty of fifh, demanded
fome addition to my former prefent, and I gave him fe-
veral articles, which in my opinion would be ferviceable;
fuch as falt, vinegar, port wine, and brandy; and. obferv-
ing when I was at his refidence that they had boiled-fome
of the yams I had given them, which feemed to. pleafe
them very much, I added to my prefent about four hun-
dred weight more.
THOUGH my new acquaintance and myfelf underftood
each other but very imperfectly, yet he feemed very much —
pleafed with this mutual exchange of friendly offices, and
after ftaying on board a fhort time, he took his leave, and.
returned on fhore.
Soon afterwards I went in the whale-boat, accompanied
by captain Dixon, to take a furvey of the harbour. On:
our firft fetting out, we expected to find a ftrait leading
out to fea, but we prefently found ourfelves miftaken. The
harbour, trom the {mall ifland at the entrance, and which
ofeumed the name of Paffage land, runs up about nine
miles, nearly in an Eaft South Eaft ‘dipeaaau and .after-
wards:
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
wards terminates in a freth water river that branches out in
feveral direGtions. There are feveral projecting points on
each fide the harbour that form very {nug and good bays, a Joly.
with excellent beaches, where a fhip might, if neceflary,
be hauled on fhore with the greateft. fafety; the depth of
water clofé to the beach feven and eight fathoms. In our
way we called on the wooding party, whom we found
bufily employed. My carpenter informed me, that he
had feen a tree with two holes through it, which appeared
urday 22.
to have been made by fwivel fhot; if fo, they probably |
were fired from a Ruffian floop when hereabouts at the
American Indians, who I amvcertain have recently inha-
bited this neighbourhood, and fled at the approach of the
Ruffians; for we faw a number of huts {cattered here and
there, fome of them very large, and feveral appeared to
have been but lately deferted. After determining the ex-
tent of the harbour, we landed, and walked up to the
frefh water river; being at that time low water, the river
was very narrow; it abounded with falmon, and on the
banks we could perceive the tracks of bears and the moofe
deer. ‘The flood-tide making foon afterwards, we em-
barked, and rowed into one of the branches, intending to
proceed as far up it as poflible; but on getting into the
mouth of the largeft branch, our attention was taken up
by a large brown bear coming down to the river. I was
in hopes that we fhould have come within mufquet-thot of
him, but he got fight of us, and made off into the woods
with much greater {peed than I imagined a bear could run,
and was prefently out of figat.
In the courfe of an hour we faw more than twenty
bears, but they were all fo fhy, that we could not fhoot
2 one,
ROD oa Ay Or A GABE) TO. 7 TE a
cM A *: one. Night now coming on, we left, the fhore, and got on
oat board about ten o'clock. oee
July. poe 7 Dita
Tefday 25. By the 25th we had completed our wood and water,
and the fhips were ready for fea; fo that I waited with im-
patience for an opportunity of proceeding u the river, as
there was a probability of meeting with GaMbitonts and
confequently we ftood a chance of procuring furs. At
prefent, however, the wind was light and variable, frequently
nC to calm, and the weather thick and foggy. In
the afternoon I went along with captain Dixon to look
into a bay fituated to the Eaftward of the North point of
the harbour. We found it a pretty good one, carry-
. ing foundings in fourteen, twelve, and eight fathom
water, over a bottom of Lae black fand.. We landed
on che Weft fide of the bay, and in walking round
it difcovered two veins of kennel coal, fituated near fome
hills juft above the beach, about elie middle of the bay;
and with very little Boule feveral pieces were got out of
the bank, nearly as large as a man’s head. From this bay '
we rowed acrofs for the entrance leading into the harbour
to the Southward of Paflage Ifle, and fiuind plenty of wa-_
ter; but the paflage much nagrower than the N orthern one. —
The beft time to run into this harbour is as near low water |
as poffible. Whatever danger there is may then be feen
either from the beds of kelp, or the rocks fhewing them-
felves above water. In the evening we returned on board, y
and I tried fome of the coal we had difcovered, and. found
it to. burn clear and well.
Wednef. 26. Art fix o'clock in the morning of the 26th, the wea- ¥
ther, which for fome time had been very thick, cleared a Bh
we litt e,
i
beppnl yoy poppe iy My Cbs Le oun pypapryg =
“TeATe S MOO NI MNOGCUVH TVOO NI MATA Vv
View
In
i}
|
|
|
{lt
mm
i
wil
i}
ies, t
j riedt
NORTE WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
little, and we began to unmoor. At eight o’clock we
weighed and came to fail, with a light variable breeze. At
nine o'clock the wind came to the Northward and Weft-
ward; and the Queen Charlotte being to the Northward
of us, was enabled to lie out, but I could not accomplifh
it. The flood-tide making in, and finding we fet very
faft towards Paflage Ile, we brought up, and being ex-
ceedingly anxious to get into the main river, began warp-
ing againft the tide. ‘The Queen Charlotte got clear out,
and I made her a fignal to anchor, which fhe obeyed. About
eleven o'clock it began to blow very frefh from the North
North Weft, with conftant rain, and we were obliged
again to bring up. At noon the weather grew moderate,
and we endeavoured by every means to get out to fea, but
found it a difficult matter to accomplifh, owing to the un-
certainty of the tide, and the wind continually fhifting.
However, at eight o’clock, having worked out as far as
the outer rocks, a breeze fprung up from the Southward,
with which we made all fail, and got out, though we
pafled very near a ledge of rocks to the Northward: when
a-breaft of that ledge, we were driven paft it in a hurry
by the flood-tide, which took us and carried us very faft
to the Northward. Soon afterwards the breeze failed us,
and I was afraid of coming too near fome funken rocks,
ficuated to the Northward and Eaftward of the North
ledge; therefore.-run a warp out to check the fhip. The
breeze coming on again in a fhort time, we-flipped the
warp, and run further off, and at ten o’clock brought-to
for the yaul, which’ I had fent to weigh the kedge. At
eleven o'clock the boat came on board, and about the fame
time we joined the Queen Charlotte, and found fhe was
nearly under way. During the night we had light airs,
and
@
109
CHAP.
Vv.
1786.
July.
Wednef. 26,
1786.
July.
Wednef. 26.
Thorfday 27.
A VOYAGE TO THE
- and the tide carried us very faft to the North Eaft into a
deep opening, which is formed by Anchor Point, and the
land to the North Eaft of Point Bede. Our depth of wa-
ter was too much for anchoring, being upwards of fixty
fathoms; fo that we were under the neceflity of waiting
for a breeze to pufh out again. At five o’clock in the
morning a light breeze came on from the Eaftward, with
which we ftood North North Weft for Anchor Point, hav-
ing got out of the opening with the ebb tide. The lead
was kept conftantly going, and we had foundings from
forty-eight to thirty fathoms water, over a bottom of fine
erey fand.
Ar noon Point Bede bore South by Eaft half Eaft, and
Anchor Point North 21° Weft, diftant from the neareft
land about five leagues. The latitude, by obfervation,
was 59° 34 North.
We ftretched up the river, with light breezes from the
Southward and Eaftward, till half paft five o’clock, when
the flood-tide being. {pent, we came-to with the ftream-
anchor in twenty fathoms water, over a rocky bottom :
Anchor Point bearing North 33° Eaft, five miles diftant;
the Volcano Mount North 86° Weft; the North land in
fight on the Weftern fhore, North 24° Weft; and an ap-
pearance of an opening on the Weft fide, North 63° Weft!
A xtarce column of fmoke iffued from the fummit of
Mount Volcano, but no fiery eruption was to be feen;
neither could we perceive any fires, or other figns of the
coaft being inhabited on either fide the river, which was
rather remarkable, as the adjacent country feemed pleafant,
and
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
and well fheltered from the inclemency of the weather.
‘This inclined me to think that the Ruffians we found in Coal
Harbour had been up the river and quarrelled with the
natives ; and I began to fear that our’ fuccefs in the river
IIL
© rea 72;
Vs
17 a
July
Thurfday 27%
would be very {mall ; however, I determined to ftand on,
and leave nothing unattempted towards attaining the prin-
cipal obje&t of our voyage. At ten o'clock we weighed
and ftood up the river with the flood and a light breeze
from the Southward. The ebb making ftrong at eight
o’clock in the morning, we could not ftem it with a light
breeze ; therefore anchored in twenty-four fathoms, over
a.rocky bottom; Anchor Point bearing South, 30° Eaft,.
diftant five leagues; the Volcano Mount South Weft halt
Weft ; the extremes of an ifland on the Weft fhore,. from
North, 62° Weft, to North, 48° Weft, diftant about five:
leagues. At the time we anchored, the tide run four
miles an hour; the ebb fetting from the North by Eaft,,
and the flood frem the South by Weft, and about half-
tide it run’ nearly five miles an hour. Our latitude was.
60° 9’ North, and we found 23° 15” Eafterly variation.
The land on the Weftern fide near the fhore appearing:
very pleafant,. and likely to be inhabited, I determined to.
ftand over and look for anchorage. At four o’clock a
point of land which contracts the river to the Weftward
bore North 54° Weft, five miles diftant. We now had
foundings from 20 to 25 fathoms of water over a rocky bot-
tom; but after hauling round the point, we fhoaled it,. and
at fix o'clock, having thirteen fathoms water over a fhingly
bottom, we came-to with the beft bower ; the Northern-
moft land in fight on the Weft fhore, bearing North 20°Eaft,,
and the diftance from the neareft land about five miles.
@:
2
Friday 28%.
[12
CH AP.
VI.
—_
1786.
July.
Friday 28.
Saturday 29.
Ar: V.0 ¥ AcG En FF. On TH SG
Ci. A. Poo VI.
Indians come to the Ships with Furs.—Shew a thieving
Difpofition.— Bring great Quantities of Salmon to bar-
ter.—Short Defcription of the Country near Trading Bay.
—Climate.—Produce.—The Ships leave Trading Bay,
and proceed down the River.—Requefted by the Indians
to join with them againft the Ruffians.—Prefents given
at parting. —Leave Cook's River, and proceed towards
Prince William's Sound.—Prevented from making it by
contrary Winds.—Proceed along the Coaft.—Difap-
pointed in meeting with Crofs Sound.
OON after we anchored, two fmall canoes came off
from the fhore, nearly a-breaft of the fhip, and went
along-fide the Queen Charlotte. I afterwards learnt that
they had nothing to barter, except a few dried falmon,
which captain Dixon purchafed for beads; and alfo made
them a few prefents, in order to convince them that our
intentions were friendly, and that we wifhed to trade with
them in a peaceable manner. They feemed to comprehend
captain Dixon’s meaning, and promifed to bring furs the
following day. About feven o’clock the next morning we
had the pleafure of feeing two large canoes and feveral
{mall ones pufhing off from the fhore. The large canoes
contained about twenty people each ; the {mall ones held
but one, or at moft two perfons. When at fome diftance
from us they joined in a fong, which was continued for a
confider-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
confiderable length of time; and afterwards came along-
fide, extending their arms as a token of their pacific in-
tentions, and many of them held up green plants, pro-
bably for the fame motive. Moft of thefe Indians had
their faces daubed entirely over with red oker and black
lead, which gave them a very difgufting appearance ;_ their
nofes and ears were in general ornamented with {mall blue
beads or teeth, and they had a flit cut in the under lip,
in a line parallel with the mouth, which was adorned in a
fimilar manner. We procured Coit this party near twenty
fea-otter fkins, and a few cloaks made of the earlefs marmot
fkins fewed together very neatly. They traded in a fair
open manner, che were very importunate with us to go on
fhore. I intreated one of them, who appeared to be a
chief, to come on board, which he declined at firft, un-
lefs I fent one of the failors into his canoe as an hoftage ;
but whilft I was {peaking with him, one of his nek
panions ventured on board, and prefently afterwards the
chief and feveral others lucd his example; however,
to convince them that they were perfectly fafe, I fent one
of my people into their boat, agreeably to the chief’s
requeft. After ftaying on board fome time, and gratifying -
their curiofity with looking at the veffel, they left us and
paddled on fhore, feemingly well fatisfied with their re-
ception.
From this favourable beginning, I was inclined to think
we could not change our fituation for a better, therefore
determined to keep it a few days; accordingly we fighted
the beft bower, and moored with it to the Southward, and
the ftream to the Northward. Our obfervation at noon
gave 60° 4q’ latitude.
OF On
113
Cc 2 S F.
Abas /7 ip
1786.
July.
Saturday 29.
Ii4
CALA +B:
vi.
Leen a
1785.
July.
Sunday 30,
Auguf.
Thurfday 3.
AU Ww OY AiG ED YO@.0 mak
- On the 3oth wewere vifited by feveral canoes, from whom
we purchafed fome good fea-otterfkins, together with feveral
marmot cloaks, racoons, and foxes; they alfo brought us
plenty of excellent frefh falmon, which we obtained for beads
-and buttons. Our trafic for fome days was much in the
fame ftate, and the behaviour of the natives was very quiet
and peaceable ; however, according to Indian cuftom, they
made no fcruple of thieving, and fome that were on board
the King George on the 3d Auguft, gave us a fpecimen of
their talents in that line, by ftealing the hook from a
block-ftrap, and a grindftone-handle, which being made
of iron, was no doubt reckoned a prize. I did not
however think it prudent to ufe violence with them for
thefe trifling depredations, and contented myfelf with or-
dering a good look-out to be kept, to prevent their ftealing
any thing in future.
An elderly chief went on board the Queen Charlotte,
from whom captain Dixon gathered fome information re-
f{pecting the Ruflians. He clearly underftood from the
old man’s. pointing to the guns, and defcribing the ex-
plofion they made, as well as from other circumftances,
that there had lately been a battle between the Ruffians
and the natives, in which the Ruffians were worfted: the
chief at the fame time intimated, that they would not
quarrel with us on that account, as he was certain we be-
langed to another nation, fromthe difference in our drefs.
How this quarrel originated we could not learn, but moft
probably it was occafioned by theft.
Tu Indians, on leaving the fhip, gave us to under-
ftand that their neighbourhood was drained of furs, but that
they
NORTH WEST COAST OF, AMERICA.
Ils
they would go to procure more in the adjacent country. © #4 ?
In the afternoon a ftrong gale of wind came on, which
continued till the forenoon of the 5th, varying Ve South
South Eaft to South South Weft. A confiderable fea fet
into the bay, that caufed the fhips to ride very heavy,
but we found much more fo at flack water than at any
other time. ‘This difference I imagine to be occafioned
by our lying in a different tide to what there is in the
ftream ; fo that during the time of low water a fea rolls
in; but as foon as the tide makes in the ftream, it runs
along the mouth of the bay, and breaks off the fea con-
fiderably. About ten o’clock in the forenoon, the wea-
ther. growing moderate, one large canoe and feveral {mall
ones came along-fide, bringing us four good fea-otter
fkins, a few martins, racoons, and foxes, and plenty of
fine falmon. The large canoe had been abfent two days,
to trade for furs in various parts of the river, and the
people now gave us to underftand that the adjoining
country was entirely drained of fkins, and that they could
not procure any more. One of the Indians in the large ca~-
noe had a very good Nankin frock, and another a blue frock,
which they wanted to fell: feveral of them -had a number
of {mall blue glafs beads, which they feemed very fond of,
but the frocks were held in very little eftimation. Thefe
articles muft doubtlefs have been procured from the Ruf-
fians previous to their quarrel, and foon after they came
into the river. I was inclined to believe the information
we obtained from our vifiters refpecting the fcarcity of
furs in this part; as I had obferved for fome days paft the
canoes came from different quarters, and the few {kins
they brought were of an inferior quality ; I therefore de-
termined to sete Cook’s River the firft opportunity, and
Q2 proceed
eS ae
Li}
Auguit.
Saturday 5.
116
CHAP.
Vi.
1786.
Augutt.
Saturday 5.
Monday 7.
Tuefday 8.
A NOY A.G.E. «TO 9 Tre
proceed to Prince William’s Sound, where I expected to
procure a good fupply of fine furs.
At noon the weather was very unfettled, with every
appearance of an approaching gale, which prevented me
from weighing. Towards evening a frefh gale came on
from the Southward; and-at nine o’clock, when the flood
made, it blew very ftrong, which occafioned us to let go
the {mall bower, and veer away on both cables, until we
brought the fmall bower a-head. The gale continued till
noon on the 7th; during which time no canoes came near
us; but about two o'clock, the weather growing more
moderate, two {mall canoes ventured off, from whom we
purchafed a fufficient quantity of falmon to ferve the fhip’s
company one day ; but they brought no furs of ‘any kind
whatever. ‘Towards evening two large canoes came off
from the Eaftern fhore; but the weather then being very
bad, they paffed on, without calling along-fide, and went
on fhore a-breaft of the fhips, where they hauled their
canoes, and turned them bottom up, probably to anfwer
the purpofe of temporary habitations, as we foon after-
wards faw a fire lighted near each of them. Notwith-
flanding the heavy gale of wind we recently had experi-
enced, it raifed no fea on the oppofite beach; on the
contrary, the water was fo fmooth, that a {mall boat
might be able to land on any part of it with fafety.
We ftill had frefh gales to the Southward, with thick
hazy weather ; this, however, did not prevent two {mall
canoes from venturing along-fide with a few falmon. In
the afternoon of the 8th, two of the natives came on
board, and I gave each of them a knife, a gimblet, and
6 fome
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fome beads. They were totally at a lofs what to make of
the gimblets, till I pointed out their ufe, and taught
them to bore a hole through a piece of wood, which at
once difcovered their value; and they admired the gimblets
far beyond their other prefents.
Wuen my vifiters prepared to go on fhore, it came on
to blow very hard ; on which I gave them to underftand,
that if they would ftay on board till the gale was over, I
would haul their canoes upon deck ; to this propofal they
readily agreed, but an old furly man in one of the canoes
objected to it, and infifted on their leaving the fhip, which
they did, and after a good deal of difficulty got fafe on
~ fhore. At eight o’clock the gale increafed, and at nine it
came on to blow fo ftrong at South, that I judged it pru-
_dent to have the topgallant-mafts got down upon deck,
the topmafts ftruck clofe down to the rigging, and the
lower yards kept aloft, ready for making fome fail, fhould
we be forced from our anchors. The water, however,
continued more fmooth than could have been expected ;
and the veffel being made fnug, rode very eafy. At eleven
o'clock, when fhe tended to the flood, apprehending that
our prefent feope of cable would be infufficient to ride her
again{ft both wind and tide, we wore away to one and a
quarter cable on the beft bower.
Ar eight o’clock next morning, the weather appearing
more fettled, we began to fway up the topmafts; but whilft
we were engaged in this bufinefs, it came on to blow very
frefh, which determined me to keep all faft, as I did not
judge it prudent to quit our fituation till there was a pro-
bability of our clearing the river.
THe
117
CHAP.
VI.
Nn, — nal
1786,
Augoft.
Tuefday 3,
Wednef. g,
ii [AC WO YA@ECTO THE,
eH AP ‘Tur heavy and continued gale of wind for fome days paft
sty had raifed- no furf on the beach to the Weftward of us,
Augut. and I am inclined to think there never is much fea near the
Wednels 9" Chore with any wind whatever. My reafon for forming
this conjecture is, that the natives have fixed wears for’
catching falmon in feveral places, which, fhould any fea
fet in fhore, would certainly be wafhed away by the furf.
Tue land to the Weftward is prettily diverfified with
vallies and gently rifing grounds, which in general are
clothed with pines and fhrubs. Many of the vales have
fmall rills of water which difcharge themfelves into the
fea, and in one of them were feveral houfes and fome ftages
on which the natives dry their falmon. Thefe, contrafted
with the mountains fituated behind them, which are en-
tirely covered with {fnow, compofe a land{cape at once beau-
tiful and picturefque.
Durine the late ftormy unfettled weather, the air had
been mild and temperate, and I am inclined to think that
the climate here is not fo fevere as has been generally fup-
pofed; for, in the courfe of our traffic with the natives,
they frequently brought berries of feveral forts, and in par-
ticular blackberries, equally fine with thofe met with in
England. |
Brsipes the various forts of furs met with here, and
which have already been enumerated, Cook’s River pro-
duces native fulphur, ginfeng, fnake root, black lead, coal,
together with the greateft abundance of fine falmon; and
the natives behave quietly and barter fairly; fo that a moft
I profitable
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
profitable trade might: doubtlefs ‘be carried on here by any
perfons of fufficient enterprife to undertake it.
Towarps midnight the gale fabfided, oat at three
o'clock: in the morning of the roth a light breeze coming
on from the North North ‘Eaft, we.began to unmoor. At
five'o’clock we weighed, and ‘came to fail with a moderate
breeze at North Eaft. ‘Soon after we got. under ‘fail, the
wind began to haul round to the South Eaft; and finding
that the ebb-tide fet usin towards the South point of the
‘bay we had juft left (and which obtained the Name of
‘Trading Bay), it became neceflary to haul the wind clofe.
Juft as we got a-breaft of the point, we were taken by a
very rapid tide fetting to the South Weft (which was a di-
rection very different to what we expected); and there
being little wind, and that little Southerly, we were not
able to get out of the tide, though a very little pufh would
have done it; for the South South Eaft tide line was juit
without us. Immediately afterwards I faw a dry fhoal bear-
ing South Weft, right in the direGion of the tide’s courfe,
and we were driving for it at the rate of five miles an hour.
T prefently faw that there was no other method of avoid-
ing this fhoal than by anchoring, and was glad to find we
had clear ground ; therefore anchored immediately in eleven
-fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand inclining
tomud. ‘The Queen Charlotte came-to at the fame time,
about half a mile to the Weftward of us.
Tue South Point of Trading Bay bore North 24° Weft,
four miles diftant; the Eaft point of an ifland to the Seucle-
ward of us, South 5° Eaft, and the North Eaft point of
the fhoal South 14° Eaft, diftant a quarter of a mile.
AT
11g .
pele gia
fei eg
1786.
Auguk,
Wednef, 9. -
Thurfday to,
- 20
ChA A. Pa
ac eed
1786.
Auguft
guit.
Thurfday 10.
AMY O16 AG ET Os Tae
Ar low water the fhoal was dry for about a mile and a
half, extending from North Eaft to South Weft. It ap-
peared to be a bank of black muddy fand, flat on every
fide, and the water fo fmooth all round, that if we had
drifted on it, in all probability we fhould not have received
any injury. However, as we had little wind, and fine
clear weather, I fent my whale-boat to found all round it.
Within this fhoal to the Weftward the land appeared very
high, and in many places covered with fnow. Near the
fea was a narrow flip of low land covered with pines, and
there appeared fome openings like harbours; but time
would not admit of my fending the boat to examine them.
I faw a rock from the maft-head, which is covered before
high water in the direG@ion of North half Eaft, from the
Eaftern point of that ifland to the Southward of us, and
forms part of a fhoal that appears to ftretch out two or
three miles. “A rock was alfo feen about half a mile
from the South point of Trading Bay, which, to-
gether with the fhoals, makes the navigation in this part
of the river much more dangerous than it was fuppofed to
be. Whilft we lay at anchor, feveral {mall canoes came
off from a town near the South point of Trading Bay. In
one of them was a man whom I had found very ufeful in
procuring furs during our ftay in the bay; on which ac-
count he was called ‘* she Faéfor.” I clearly underftood
from him, that the Ruffians frequented the Weft fide of
the ifland to the Southward, and that there is a paflage
betwixt that and the main; if fo, I think it muft be
greatly incommoded with fhoals, and dangerous on ac-
count of the rapidity of the tides. My friend the Faéor
brought nothing to difpofe of except a few falmon. It
feems, his principal motive in paying me this vifit was, to
beg
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
beg our affiftance againft the Ruffians.. He was very im-
portunate with me to grant his requeft, intimating at: the
fame time that he could prefently affemble a large fleet of
canoes, with which, aflifted by our fhips, they could eafily
get the better of their enemies. On my \refufing his re-
queft, he feemed rather mortified; but to confole him. in
fome meafure for this diappombendats I gave him a light
horfeman’s cap, of which he was very proud; and his
countrymen: beheld, him with fuch a mixture of admira-
tion and envy, that I greatly queftion whether. be will be
able to keep.it long in his poflefion. I alfo diftributed.a
few trifles amongft the other Indians, and they returned on
fhore perfectly fatisfied, notwithitanding I refufed to efpoufe
their caufe againft the Rufiianse.
At one o'clock the whale-boat returned from found,
ing, and the officer who was in her informed me, that he
feand four and five fathoms water about half a mile from
the fhoal, and all round it near the fame depth over asbot-
tom of black muddy fand, the.tide running at the rate. of
four miles an- hour. Boos after four So éloak: the flood
being nearly done, we weighed and. ftretched over for the
Eaftern fhote,, with a light breeze from the South South
Eaft. After getting about two miles to the Eaftward, the
water deepened fo much, that we got no ground w a fixty
fathoms, of line; but after-pafling the,mid channel, we
ftruck the. ground ia, thirty-four. fathoms we sinc Over a
fhingly bottoni, and thé ;water {hoaled gradually as wead-
vanced towards the Eaftern fhore. About nine, o'clock we
anchored in fixteen fathoms water, over.a {hingly bottom,
ag: 1 E judges the ebb to have been done; but it-run down
R near
121,
C-H, A: P.
Vi.
1786.
Augntt.
Thuriday 10.
122
CHAP.
VI.
eee ee
1786.
Augutt.
Friday 11.
A VOYAGE: TO. THE
near an hour longer than I expected. When at anchor,
the South point of Trading Bay bore North 46° Weft.
The extremes of the ifland on the Weftern fhore South 65°
Weft, and South 30° Weft, diftant from the neareft land on
the Eaft fhore about two leagues. Next morning at half
paft five o’clock, the flood-tide being done, we weighed and
made fail with a light breeze at South South Weft, and car-
ried foundings along fhore about two leagues diftant, from
fifteen to twenty fathoms, over a fhingly bottom. At eight
o'clock, the North point of an ifland on the Weftern, fhore
bore North 84° Weft, fix leagues, and fome rocks that are
fituated two miles from the Eaftern fhore, South 53° Eaft,
three leagues diftant. Thefe rocks make their appearance
at all times of tide, yet are not noticed in captain Cook’s
chart of the river, but are in Mr. Edgar’s, who was mafter
of the Difcovery; he I think has laid them down about a
league too far to the Southward.
We tacked at nine o'clock, and foon afterwards faw a:
number of canoes, which at firft I concluded were traders:
coming off to the fhip; but on looking at them through:
a glafs, I perceived two Ruflian boats amongft them; they
were about a league to the Northward of us, and: appeared.
to be ftanding over for the ifland on the Weftern fhore ::
juft at this time the breeze from the South South Weft
frefhening, the boats fet their fails, and pufhed over for
the ifland. They no doubt were the fame party we met
at Coal Harbour; and probably the Faétor’s intelligence,
refpecting their having a fettlement on the Weft fide of
that ifland, was true.
_. Havine
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Havince in general light variable winds, with calms by
turns, we took the advantage of the tide in ftanding down
the river, and by noon on the 13th were well clear of it.
At that time the extremes of the Barren Iflands bore South
Weft and South, 38° Weft; Cape Elizabeth North, 80°
Weft, diftant about five leagues; and our diftance from
the neareft fhore about three leagues. The land on which
Cape Elizabeth is fituated is an ifland, and in the ftraits
formed by it and the back land there is good anchorage
and fhelter. Hereabouts would be a moft defirable fitu-
ation for carrying on a whale-fifhery; the whales being on
the coaft, and clofe in fhore, in vaft numbers; and there
being convenient and excellent harbours quite handy for the
bufinefs. The Barren Iflands, which are fituated nearly in
the midway between Point Banks and Cape Elizabeth, are
very high and totally barren; they lie in a clufter, and
appear to have good paflages between them. With a fine
breeze from the Weft South Weft we ftood along-fhore, at
the diftance of three leagues, fteering Eaft by North for
Prince William’s Sound. The lead was kept conftantly
going, but we got no ground with forty fathoms of line.
At eight o'clock I changed the courfe to’ North Eaft
half Eaft, in order to make the South Weft point of
Montague Ifland ; the Wefternmoft land in fight bearing
Weft South Weft, and the Eafternmoft North by Weft,
eight or nine leagues diftant.
Licut variable winds, with intervening calms and hazy
weather, prevented us from making any great progrefs to-
wards the entrance into Prince William’s Sound. At two
o'clock in the afternoon of the 17th, having nearly a
calm, and the current fetting us direétly off fhore, we
R 2 anchored
123
CMA SP,
VI.
ee eet
3786.
Anoguf.
Sunday 13.
Thurfday 172
5124.
OFT PA LP.
VI.
——Y
1786.
Avugett.
Thurfday 17.
Friday r8..
' Satuaday 19:
AM AVOOM AGAD S TYO.0yry Ee
anchored in forty-three fathoms water, over a bottom of
gravel mixed with fmall ftones and fhells. The extremes
of Montague Ifland bore North, 45° Eaft, and North,
9° Eaft; the middle of the paffage into Prince William’s
Sound North, 2° Eaft; and our diftance from the neareft
land three or four miles. During the afternoon and night
we had light airs, inclining to calm, with thick foggy
weather. Next morning a moderate breeze f{prung up
from the Weft South Weft; but the fog was fo thick,
that we could not fee any object half a cable’s length from
the fhip. At fix o’clock in the afternoon, the fog rather
difperfing, we weighed and came to fail; but the day
being fo far fpent, I did not think it prudent to ftand in
for the paflage ; in the night ; therefore ftood to the South-
ward under an eafy fail. We had foundings in forty -four
fathoms water, with a bottom of grey fand; but at mid-
night, in flanding. to the North Wett, we ftruck no
ground with ninety fathoms of line, ahd prefently after-
wards got no bottom with 106 fathoms. At nine o’clock
next morning, the fog clearing away over Montague
Ifland, we faw the North Eaft point bearing North,
39° Eaft, four leagues diftant; but light baffling winds
prevented our making any great progrefs towards it.
At four in the afternoon the extremes of Montacue
Ifland bore from North by Eaft to Eaft, the neareft
part about four miles diftant, and a rock mire lies
to the South Weft of the Green Ifles, North, 11° Eaft.
A light breeze now fprung up: at Eaft, sith eg we
freered North North Eaft, and T began to conceive hopes
that we fhould get into the pafiage before night came on ;
in this: however T was difappointed ; for as an as we. got
~ the upttlnge open, we took the current, and the w nal
growing
8
i
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
growing fcant, it fet us to leeward of the paflage, and
very faft towards fome fmall iflands and rocks which are
fituated at the South extreme of an ifland that forms the
Weftern fide of the paffage: I therefore, at fix o'clock,
was under the neceflity of tacking and flanding to the
South South Eaft; and even then, with a three-knot
breeze, and all the fail we could carry, for near three
hours, we could barely keep clear of the rocks; indeed I
could have anchored at this time, but we had eighty-four
fathoms water, which I thought too great a depth to
anchor in. During our ineffectual attempt to make the
entrance, we had the boats a-head towing the fhip, but
all to no purpofe ; and I muft own that it was rather a:
mortifying circumftance to be thrown out, after making
ourfelves almoft fure of getting into the pa afie, as at one
time we had every reafon to expeé, and had got all ready
for anchoring. The wind continued-variable, but gene-
rally in the Eaftern and Northern boards, which was quite
unfavourable to us, and we confequently plied to little
advantace. At three o'clock in the afternoon of the arft
the South Weft point of Montague Ifland bore North Weft
by North; h: wing then a fre th breeze at Eaft North Faft,.
I flood direa Shy in for it, intending, if poffible, te have
luffed round it, and to have anchored in a fandy bay
that lies juft round the South Weft point. For fome
time every thing was in our favour, and I had hardly a
doubt of gaining anchorage, until we brought the South
Weft point to bear No sis by Eaft, when the current took
us on the weather-bow, and eae us bodily to leeward ;
fo that there was nota pot bility of our making the lbed:
forentrance. “Av four o'clock. theextremes-of Mont tague
Ifland bere North, 4° Eaft, and Nerth, 45° Eaft, diftant
from:
125
CeEREA Pe
Vi.
Saturday 19.
Monday z2,
mie ry A VOYAGE TO THE
CHA? from the South Weft point three miles. A frefh gale
“~~ coming on at North Eaft, with heavy fqualls and thick
ihagiill rainy weather, we tacked and ftood to the South Eaft by
Montay2t- Paft, On founding, we had twenty fathoms water, over a
rocky bottom. ‘Till the 24th the wind continued at
North Eaft, blowing frefh and in fqualls, with thick
rainy weather; fo that I gave up all hopes of making
Prince William’s Sound by the South Weft paffage, and
determined to try for an entrance that leads into the Sound
by Cape Hinchinbrooke. At five o’clock in the morning
Thurfday24. of the 24th, the wind fhifting to Eaft South Eaft, I fteered
North Eaft, in order to make the Eaftern paflage into the
Sound ; the weather thick and hazy. For fome days paft
no land had appeared in fight; but this afternoon at four
o'clock we faw land, which formed a high bluff point,
bearing North, 46° Weft, about four leagues diftant. The
former heavy gales from the North Eaft were now fuc-
ceeded by light variable winds and thick foggy weather,
which caufed us to ply occafionally, though to little pur-
pofe, as it was totally impracticable, with fuch weather,
to make our intended port.
Saurday26. AT eight o’clock in the evening of the 26th a light
breeze came on from the South Weft, the fog difperfed,
and we had clear, pleafant weather ; fo that I was in ex-
pectation of a fettled South Weft wind; therefore fteered
North North Eaft for the Eaftern paflage into Prince Wil-
liam’s Sound.
Towarps midnight, the breeze frefhening with thick
dirty weather, we brought-to with the fhip’s head to the
Sunday 27- Southward ; and at three o’clock, the fog clearing up,
2 we
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
we bore away to the Northward and made fail. Our fa-
vourable profpeé& however was but of fhort duration; for
we again had variable winds and foggy weather to. en-
counter with; on this, I fent my whale-boat on board the
Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon, in order to confult
him refpeéting our future proceedings. He came immedi-
ately on board the King George ; and after fixing on King
George’s Sound for our winter quarters, we came to a.
refolution of quitting this part of the coaft in a day or
two, fhould the wind continue unfavourable, and endea-
vouring to make fome harbour farther to the Southward.
Indeed it was high time to come to a determination of
this fort; the feafon for our bufinefs was far advanced,
and much time had been fpent to no purpofe, owing to
contrary winds and. bad weather, a continuation of which,
together with heavy gales of wind from the Weftward,
might foon be expected to fet in with a continuance; it
was therefore thought moft prudent, fhould we be difap-
pointed a fhort time longer, to make the beft of our way
to the Southward, and endeavour to get into: Crofs Sound,.
er the Bay of Iflands; both of them. being harbours feen.
by captain Cook during our laft voyage. Having fettled:
thefe points, captain Dixon returned.on board. his own:
veffel..
Tue fun breaking out juft at noon, we had an oppor--
tunity of taking an obfervation, which. gave 59° latitude,,
/
Oe
the longitude 146° 3
We founded'at four o’clock with 100 fathoms of. line,,
but got no ground; the extremes of the land in fight
bore.
127
CHAP,
Vi.
1786.
Auguft,
Sunday 27.
Monday 28.
AM IV"O NYVACGHE WG 4 Sh MED
bore from Weft half “North to North North Weft half
Weft, diftant from the neareft part of it feven or eight
leagues. At fix o’clock the land in fight bore Weft by
South and North Eaft. The land to the North Eaft ap-
peared to be two low iflands, which I conjectured were
fituated between Kayes Ifland and the land of Cape
Hinchinbrooke; at the fame time the points of an opening,
which I took for the Eaftern paflage into Prince William’s
Sound, bore North Weft half North, and North North
Weft, diftant five or fix leagues. Having a moderate
breeze from the North Eaft, and fine weather, we ftood
in towards the opening till eight o’clock, when the
wind hauled to the North North. Eaft, which ‘laid us
off fo much that we could not fetch in; therefore we
tacked and ftood to the. Eaftward under an eafy fail, in-
tending to try for the paflage next morning. At two
o'clock we wore, and fteered North by Weft half Weft,
with a breeze from the North Eaft by North. = At four
o'clock, having a frefh gale at North Eaft, and fine clear
weather, I expeéted from the courfe we had been fteering
during the night that we fhould have had the {mall iflands,
feen by us the preceding evening, bearing about North by
Faft, and diftant about four miles; from which fituation,
with the North Eaft wind we now had, we could have
run into the paflage with a large wind; but I was much
furprifed'to fee the fmall iflands bearing North Eaft by
North, and diftant about-nine leacues ; fo much had the
current driven us off fhore during the night.. However,
we ftood to the North North Weft under all the fail we
could fet; hoping, if the weather remained fettled, that
we might be able before night came on to get into the
paflige,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
paflage, and anchor there; fo that if the wind failed us,
we might be able to work in to the Sound with the tide ;
but at feven o'clock it began-to blow very frefh, with
thick hazy weather, and every appearance of an approach-
ing gale, the land entirely hid with a thick fog. Under
thefe circumftances I did not think it prudent to run in
for the paflage ; therefore at half paft feven o'clock we
tacked and ftood to the South Eaft. I now gave up
all thoughts of getting into the Sound this feafon ; there-
fore determined to quit this part of the coaft immediately,
and f{tand to the Southward, where there was a probability
of meeting with more favourable weather.
Wiru a frefh gale from the Eaft North Eaft, we fteered
South Eaft by South, the weather ftill thick and foggy,
attended with rain. During the night we frequently
founded with eighty fathoms of line, but got no bottom.
The wind never fixed at one point for any length of
time, but varied continually; fometimes blowing. frefh
and in fqualls, with alternate calms and thick rainy
weather.
On the 4th of September, finding myfelf very indif-
ferent, I feat for captain Dixon to come on board, in-
tending, fhould my ilnefs increafe fo as to prevent me
from keeping the deck, for the Queen Charlotte to take
the lead, and niake for Crofs Sound, from thence to Cape
Edgecombe, and afterwards to King George’s Sound, where
we had before determined to winter, ‘and ‘build a fhalop
of about faxty or feventy tons burthen, if we were for-
tunate/enough to get in-before the winter feafon {et in fo
S bad
129
CH AP
VI.
———
1786.
Avguft.
Monday 28.
September-
Monday 4-
130
CHAP,
VI.
ea aaa
1786.
September.
‘Tuefday 5s
Ad V/O°WANG EMT OIC HE
bad as to prevent us from making the neceflary prepara-
tions for effecting that purpofe.
Ar eight o'clock in the morning of the 5th we faw the
Jand making in two very high mountains, one of which
- bore North North Weft half Weft, and the other North
Saturday 9.
North Weft half Weft, diftant fourteen or fifteen leagues.
‘Thefe mountains we fuppofed to be Mount Saint Elias and
Mount Fairweather, according to their fituation in captain
Cook’s chart. We now had light variable airs, which
caufed us to ply occafionally, and retarded our progrefs
very much. Our latitude at noon was 58° 16° North, and
the longitude 140° 3’.
In the afternoon, finding myfelf fo ill as not to be able
to keep the deck, I defired my firft mate to {peak the
Queen Charlotte, and requeft captain Dixon to take the
lead, which he accordingly did. In the forenoon of the
oth, Mount Fairweather was feen bearing Eaft North
Eaft. This mountain is .fituated a little to the North-
ward and Eaftward of Crofs Sound. At noon, having a
moderate breeze from the South Eaft by Eaft, with open
cloudy weather, we ftood in fhore to the North Eaft by
Eaft; the land in fight extending from Eaft North Eaft
to North North Eaft half Eaft, and a low point North -
Faft half Eaft, four or five leagues diftant. Oug latitude
then was 57° 54’, and the longitude 137° 58". At. two
o'clock, the wind being then at Eaft South Eaft, our
courfe was changed to North Eaft, in order to made Crofs
Sound; but in a few hours afterwards, being well in
with it, captain Dixon hailed, and defired my farft mate
to
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 13x
to acquaint me, that he faw no appearance of a port in © %A P
the fituation laid down in captain Cook’s chart for Crofs —=——.
Sound ; but that what captain Cook took for an opening september,
in the land, was nothing more than a deep valley with ““““?*
low land in it, which, at the confiderable diftance he
was from the fhore, might eafily be miftaken for a deep
opening, and confequently a good harbour might be
expected.
132
CREA IE,
hee Valli,
Lo, ~~
1780.
September.
Saturday 9g.
Sunday 10.
Ai 1 V)0O°H ATG /EO T Oc THIET 2 OM
vy .
CHAP. VIE
Fruitlefs ‘Attempt to: fall in with ihe Bi of ‘TWh a
- Proceed along the Coaft towards King George’s Sound.—
Unfuccefsful Attempt to make it.—Departure from the
Coaft.—Paffage from thence to the § andwich Iflands.—
Saint Maria la Gorta.— Arrive off Owhyhee.—Refre/b-
ments obtained.—Natives Prgpenfity to Theft.—Plan of
future Proceedings.—The Ships leave Owhyhee.—Pick
wp a Canoe with fome Indians in Diftre/s.—Anchor at
VV oahoo.
eee falling in with Crofs Sound, as was expected,
and having no fpare time to look fan it in any other
fituation, we tacked at four o'clock, and ftood to the
Shee with a moderate breeze feo the Eaft South
Eaft, and dark unfettled looking weather: the land in
fiohe extending from North North Weft to Eaft South
Fay about feu leagues diftant from the neareft part.
Tue wind continued moderate till four o'clock the
next morning, when a ftrong gale came on. from the North
Eaft, nitended with heavy rain. At nine o'clock the
ne fhifted to Eaft South Eaft, the gale increafing with
thick rainy weather, which obliged us to hand the top-
fails and reef the courfes. ‘Towards noon the gale gradually
fubfided, and at fix o’clock we had a light breeze from
the South South Weft, with a very heavy crofs fea, which
caufed
Som da .n ©?
a sh a,
EE
NORTH WEST-COAST OF AMERICA.
caufed the fhip to labour exceedingly. ‘During the night
we had-light variable winds with conftant rain: this how-
ever was not of long continuance; for at noon on the
rith a heavy gale {prung up from the Eaft South Eaft;
the rain ftill continuing without intermiffion.
Tue almoft conftant: fucceffion of bad weather we for
fome time paft had experienced, induced me to think that
the bad weather feafon was fet in, and that our making
a port on the coaft would be very precarious ; in that cafe
we fhould be obliged to water, and fpend the winter at
the Sandwich Iflands. Under this confideration, I judged
it prudent to put the fhip’s company to an allowance of
water at the rate of two quarts a man a day.
Tue gale continued to blow from the Eaftward and
Southward, with very little intermiffion, till noon on the
13th; it then grew moderate. Our latitude then was 56°
37’, and the longitude 138° 31°.. Having then a moderate
breeze from the South by Eaft, we fteered Eaft North
Eaft, in order to make the land near Cape Edgecombe. At
nine o’clock the wind fhifted to the South Weft, blowing
frefh, with hazy weather.
_ Ar midnight we hauled the wind to the Southward,
and at five o'clock the next. morning bore away and made
fail, ftanding in for the land with a moderate breeze at
South Weft. At fix o’clock the land near Cape Edge-
combe was feen bearing North Eaft by North, and at
eight the land in fight extended from North half Weft
to North North Eait half Eaft, diftant from the neareft
5 part
sr
CHA P.
VIt.
——
1786.
September,
Monday 11.
Wednef. 13.
Thurfday 14.
134
GrH A P.
: VII.
Ce, ee
1786.
_ September.
Thorfday 14.
As Vi Or % A Gp Ev 5 Dy Og Dp Bee
part four or five leagues. We now ftood to the North by
Eaft, in order to gain the fituation laid down by captain Cook
for the Bay of Iflands, where we had great hopes of making a
good port; but after getting within two leagues of the land,
no place could be difcovered which had the appearance of a
harbour, or even a fafe bay: at the fame time we could get
no ground with eighty fathoms of line. Juft before noon,
nothing like a harbour making its appearance, and obferv-
ing a ledge of rocks to the Northward of us ftretching
fome diftance from the fhore, towards which a current
was {weeping us very faft, captain Dixon (who ftill took
the lead) thought it moft prudent to haul off fhore to the
Weiltward ; at the fame time the wind backed a little to
the Southward, which enabled us to clear the reef. We
fhould not have been in much danger, had there been a
commanding breeze; but we unfortunately had light
winds, and a confiderable {well rolling on towards the
fhore, againft which the fhip could {carcely fteer or make
any way. The latitude at noon was 57°°6’ and 136° 40°
longitude.
Durine the afternoon we had light variable winds and
dark gloomy weather. At fix o’clock the land in fight
extended from North by Eaft to South Eaft half Eaft, dif—
_ tant from the neareft fhore three or four leagues. ‘Towards
Friday 15;
evening the weather had a dirty unfettled appearance, and
in the night a heavy gale of wind came on from the Eaft
South Eaft, with thick rainy weather, which continued
till ten o’clock the next forenoon, when the weather grew _
more moderate.
We
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
We plied with variable winds till noon on the 16th,
when feeing no probability of meeting with a harbour
near Cape Edgecombe, we gave up all further thoughts
of it, and determined to ftand for King George’s Sound.
A rresu breeze now fprung up from the Weft South
Weft, which brought with it clear weather. - Qn the 18th
at noon we were in 53° 46’ latitude, and 134° 6’ longi-
tude ; and at one o'clock the land was feen bearing Eaft
North Eaft, fourteen leagues diftant: at four, the land
extended from North to Eaft South Eaft, and an appear-
ance of a bay bore Eaft by North. Having a frefh gale
at North North Weft and clear weather, by fix o’clock
we were within two leagues of the fhore, and had an op-
portunity of feeing that there was no appearance of a har-
bour, as we before had fuppofed, nor any fign of inha-
bitants.
Ar this time the Queen Charlotte being fome diftance
a-head, wore and ftood under our lee, and captain Dixon
hailed, and acquainted me that he faw no appearance of a
harbour or any inhabitants. The land in this fituation is
high, and breaks into abrupt cliffs which hang over the
fea, and are wafhed by a very heavy furf. We now fteered
South with a fine gale at North Weft and clear weather;
- our diftance from fhore about two leagues. The wind ftill
continuing favourable, we fteered more to the Eaftward,
in order to keep well in with the coaft.
On the arft, in latitude 50° 47’, and 129° 28’ longi-
tude, we faw an ifland bearing North Eaft by Eaft half
Eaft, fix or feven leagues diftant; and at fix o’clock in
3 the
135
CG. BUACE.
Vi.
Se em amend
1786.
September.
Saturday 16.
Monday 18.
Thurfday zr,
136
ae fe)
nae
1786.
SPERRDSPER.
Friday 22.
actA MOYAGE TO THE
the. afternoon the. ifland’ bore.'North, 28° Weft, five
leagues!; at the-fame time another ifland appeared i in fight,
bearing North, 45° Eaft, diftant ten or cleven leagues.
Earby in the morning af the 20d we few the lind ex-
tending from North to North Eaft, diftant ten or eleven
: leagues. At noon the land extended from North Weft
Saturday 23.
half North to North Eaft by North ; Woody Point bore
North by Weft, three leagues, and a high rock detached
from it North oy Weft, a quarter Weft, two leagues dif-
tant. The land to the! Southward and Balad appeared
to form a good bay, which we fteered for with a frefh
breeze, from. the North North Weft, m hopes of coming
to anchor. before night came on. As we drew near the
fhote. I. ordered. the whale-boat to be lowered down, and
fent her a-head. to found; but at half paft two o’clock,
- feeing not the leaft appearance of fhelter, I made the
fignal for the boat to come on board: at that time we
were not more than thtee’ miles from fhore, and had
thirty-four fathoms water over a foul bottom. Immedi-
ately after the boat was hoifted up we ftood along fhore
to the Eaftward towards King George’s Sound, the land
extending from North North Eaft hali Eaft to North Weft
by .Weft ;. Woody Point. North Weft. by North, three
leagues, and the, rocks off Weody- Point North Weft half
North, two leagues. diftant.-,The-fpace between thofe
rocks and Woody Point appears to be foul ground, as
there are many rocks juft fhewing their heads above water,
on which the fea frequently breaks. At feven o’clock we
hauled’ off the, land and °ftood South Welt! by Weft, the
wind then. blowing frefh at. North Weft by Weft ;,-and
and at daylight next morning wore fhip and fteered) North —
half
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
half Eaft. The land at noon extending from Eatt ae
South to Weft North Weft half Weft, we fteered Eaft
North Eaft, with a moderate breeze front the North Welt
by North, mad pleafant weather. Our latitude then was
49° 48, atid the longitude 127° 8. At two o'clock,
feeing a canoe putting off from the fhore, we fhortened
fail and brought-to for her to come up; fhe had two In-
dians in her, but we could not prevail on either of them
to come on board: they had fome fifh which we bought,
and I made them a few trifling prefents ; after which they
left us and paddled for that part of the fhore between
Woody Point and King George’s Sound. At five o’clock
the North Point of the entrance into King George’s
Sound bore North, 73° Eaft; the breakers that lie off that
point Eaft half North, three leagues diftant: the Eaftern—
moft land in fight South, 73° Eaft, diftant eight or nine
leagues, and the Wefternmoft land Weft by North half North,
thirteen leagues diftant. Having light winds and hazy wea-
ther, we found it impracticable to reach the Sound before
night ; therefore hauled to the South South Eaft. In the
courfe of the evening we frequently founded, and had
from fifty-four to fixty-two fathoms water over a muddy
bottom. During the night we plied occafionally, with
light variable winds and hazy weather. At fix o’clock in
the morning of the 24th the haze clearing away, we faw
the land about the Sound, the North point of the en-
trance bearing North Eaft by Eaft, nine or ten leagues
diftant. The wind being ftill light, and frequently in-
clining to calm, our progreds towards the Sound was very
flow. At four o’clock in the afternoon of the 25th the
North point of the entrance bore North, 61° Eaft, three
leagues diftant: having a oe breeze at South by Eaft,
we
£37
C HAF.
Petia ak
Saturday 23.
Sunday 24)
Monday 25+
1786.
‘September.
Monday 25.
Tuelday 26.
AV OY, AGE. “TO “FoHIE}
we fteered Eaft by South, expecting to gain the entrance ;
but at five o’clock the light breeze we had fhifted to South
Eaft, and a current fet us ftrongly to the North North
Weft; fo that it was impoflible for us to fetch into the
Sound; and night coming on, we tacked and ftood to the
South Weft by South. About fix o’clock the wind began
to frefhen at South Eaft, with every appearance of an ap-
proaching gale: therefore I thought it moft advifable to
get a little offing before it came on; as thofe gales from
the South Eaft, after blowing hard a while in that quarter,
generally haul to the Southward, and blow with great
violence; in which cafe the land of the Bay of Good Hope
all becomes-a lee and dangerous fhore. At eight o’clock
the horizon to the South and South Eaft looked re-
markably red and wild, with ftrong flafhes of light-
ning in thofe boards. At ten the wind blew very frefh
from the Eaft South Eaft, with thick weather and hard
rain; at that time we wore and ftood in fhore to the
North Eaft, with an intention of keeping pretty near the
entrance of the Sound, in order to be ready for pufhing
into; it the next morning, fhould. an ‘opportunity offer ;
but; at eleven o’clock the gale increafed fo faft upon us,
that all hands were barely fufficient to make the fhip fnug
enough for its reception. At midnight we wore and ftood
to the South by Weft; immediately afterwards an exceed-
ing heavy guft of wind came on, which obliged us to
clew the topfails down on the cap; the forefail ‘although
a very fmall one, made purpofely for a foul-weather fail)
gave way at both clews, and both the foot and leech ropes
broke fhort off ; yet we fortunately got the fail made fnug
before it {plit, unbent it, and bent a new one... At three
o'cleck the wind fhifted to the South Eaft, and blew a
mere
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
mere hurricane, which brought on a very heavy fea,
occafioned the fhip. to labour and ftrain exceedingly. It
certainly was the moft dreadful night I ever faw, and to
add to the awful fcene of a tremendous fea, loud thunder,
fierce lightning, and torrents of rain, we had at each
maft-head, and at every yard-arm, thofe meteors called
by failors cormpafants, which gave a light at leaft equal to
the fame number of lights hung aloft: befides thofe on
the mafts and yards, they were’ flying about on all parts
of ‘the rigging.
Ir is the generally received opinion of feafaring men,
that when the compafant reaches the topgallant-maft-
heads, the gale is at or near its height, and indeed we
found it fo; for about half paft three, after a moft vio-
lent guft of wind, which ‘did not continue more than two
or three minutes, the clouds began to break, and the
weather became more moderate, the wind inclining to the
South Eaft by South. At fix o’clock it fell almoft calm,
and we had a prodigious heavy fea from the South South
Eaft ; foon afterwards we faw the land near the entrance
into King George’s Sound, bearing Eaft North Eaft, five
or fix leagues diftant, on which we ftood for it with a very
light breeze at Weft, the weather looking unfettled, and
avery heavy crofs fea running. By two in the afternoon
it grew nearly calm; and finding all our efforts to get
into the Sound ineffe@tual, we hauled off fhore to the
Southward. ~~ fl
- Licur airs, ‘with intervening calms, prevailed till four
o'clock in the morning of the 27th, when a frefh’ gale
fprung up at South Eaft by Eaft, attended’ with thick
; 2 rainy
139
and © HA P.
Vib
ee
1786.
September,»
nefday 26.
Wednef, 276
140
cH AP.
= VIF
Re eed
1786.
September.
Wednef. 27.
Thurfday 28.
A MOYAGE TQ, THE
rainy weather ; we now ftood to the North Eaft by Eaft;
but the wind fhifted every hour, fo that there was not
a poflibility of keeping our courfe. At eight o'clock,
having a moderate breeze at South Welt, we fteered Eaft
North Eaft; at the fame time the land made its appear-
ance through the haze, bearing from North North Weft
to Eaft North Eaft. This breeze, however, was of fhort
duration ; for in the fpace of an hour it grew nearly calm,
and continued light and variable till four in the afternoon,
when a little breeze fprung up from the South Weft; but
judging with fo light a breeze that we could not reaclr
the Sound before night (our diftance from it being about
fix leagues), we ftood to the South South Eaft, with an
intention of {pending the night in flanding off and on,
and then, if an opportunity offered at daylight, to rum
into the Sound. During the former part of the night
the wind blew frefh and in fqualls, with frequent heavy
fhowers of hail; this was fucceeded by light variable winds
and thick rainy weather. At fix o’clock next morning we:
tacked and bore away to the North Eaft, the weather hazy,.
and a prodigious heavy fwell from the South Weft. The
North point of the entrance into King George’s Sound at:
eight o’clock bore North Eaft half North, diftant four
leagues, and the Wefternmoft land in fight North Weft.
by North, fix leagues diftant. At nine it fell calm, and.
the heavy {well continuing from the South Weft, and a:
ftrong current fetting to the North North Eaft drove us.
very faft towards the fhore, and fome breakers. that; are:
fituated to the Northward and Weftward of the entrance:
into the. Sound. At firft Lhad fome thoughts. of get—
ting our boats out to tow the fhip’s head. round, and:
to keep her off fhore;, but the motion of the fhip was fo:
. LE, great,.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
great, occafioned by the fwell, that it would hardly have
been poffible to have hoifted them out without dafhing
them to pieces; indeed, if they had been out they
could have had no effeé& on the fhip againft fo heavy a
-{well rolling dire@ly on fhore. It continued calm till
eleven o'clock, at which time we were very near the
breakers, and the {well feeming to increafe as we ap-
proached the fhore, I was preparing to anchor with one
of the bowers in fixty-four fathoms water, when a light
breeze fprung up at South Eaft; this was, in the fituation
we then were, almoft dire@tly from the entrance into
the Sound; fo that we could not make it, and had no
alternative left but to get the fhip’s head. off fhore, and’
get an offing as well as we could.
Ar noon the breeze frefhened at South Eaft, and we
ftood to the South Weft; at the fame time an exceeding
heavy {well rolled in fhore, which broke in a frightful
furf on the rocks and breakers: the North point of the
entrance into King George’s Sound bore North, 65° Weft,
four or five leagues diftant ; our diftance from the breakers:
one mile and.a half, and from: the neareft land: about three:
miles..
In the afternoon we had light baffling winds, with: fre-
quent fqualls and heavy fhowers of hail and rain..
L now faw’ not the leaft probability of our’ getting into:
the Sound. this feafon ; the bad weather appedred to be
fet in for a.continuance, our fails and. rigcing were much
damaged, and the crews ftood greatly in need of refrefh-
ment; under thefe circumftances, I came to a determi--
pation:
i4Y
C. BA P:
Vil.
1786.
September.
Tharfday 23,
142
C°H.A’ PR.
Pa PVALES
ew
1786.
September.
Friday 29.
Saturday 30.
Oétober.
Monday z.
Saturday 7.
Thurfday 12.
Saturday 14,
A» .V: OvY) AcG ETO oT} HE
nation of leaving the coaft,-and ftanding dire@ly- for the
Sandwich Iflands; and hailing the Queen Charlotte, I ac-
quainted captain Dixon with my intention.
Ar eight o’clock in the morning ef the 29th we fteered
South: by Weft with a frefh Wefterly breeze. Woody
Point at that time bore North Weft half Weft, the Faft-
ernmoft land in fight Eaft by North, and the entrance of
King George’s Sound North, 50° Eaft, eleven leagues
diftant.
‘Tue breeze continued Wefterly till the morning of the
goth, when it was fucceeded by light variable winds, in-
clining to calm. The weather being clear and fine, the
failors hammocks and chefts were got upon deck, and their
clothes well aired; the fhip was fcraped clean between
decks and aired with fires. In 46° 48’ North latitude;
and 131° 6” longitude, we found 19° Eafterly variation.
On the 7th Odober a ftrong gale of wind came on at
South South Weft, with hazy weather and rain, which
however was not of long duration, and the wind fhifting
to the South Weft, brought with it clear weather.
Tue wind continued variable, chiefly in the Southern
and Weftern boards, frequently, blowing frefh and in fqualls,
with unfettled weather. On the rzth, in 38° 44’ latitude,
and-133° 10° longitude, the wind hauled to the North-
ward, and blew frefh from that quarter, till noon on the
¥4th, when, after a few hours calm, it fhifted to the
Southward and Eaftward. .
THE
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
Tue fcurvy beginning to make its appearnce on fome of
the people, the fhip’s company were ferved a pint of Port
wine a-day inftead of {pirits.. |
We proceeded towards the Sandwich [lands without
meeting with any thing worthy of note. The wind
hanging from South to South Eaft, and being in general
light and. very variable between thefe points, rendered our
progrefs tedious.
Ow the 26th, in 32° 36’ latitude, and 143° 35° longi-
tude, we faw great numbers of tropic birds, one of which
was in purfuit of a fmall land bird, very much like a
fnipe.
In captain Cook’s general chart the centre of an ifland,.
named Saint Maria la Gorta, is placed in 28° North lati-
tude, and 149° 20° Weft longitude. Our latitude® at
noon, on the 1ft of November, was 28°14’ North, and:
the longitude 148° 35°; in which fituation, having fine
clear weather, we certainly ought to have feen that ifland,
but not the leaft appearance of land was to be feen from
the maft-head ; and the next forenoon we run diredly
over the {pot where Saint Maria la Gorta fhould be fitu-
ated; fo that there is great reafon to fuppofe no fuch place
exits.
In the morning of the gth the wind blew very frefh
and in fqualls from the South Eaft, attended with torrents
of rain and fierce lightning. At nine o’clock it increafed
toa ftrong gale, with violent fqualls, which obliged us to
clofe-reef the topfails ; but before that could be effected,
7 the
143
CEH AMP:
VI.
ee eed
1786.
Oétober.
Saturday 14.
Thurfday 26,
November,
Wednef. 1.
Thurfday 27
Thurfday 9.
144
CHAP.
VIL.
| eed
1786.
October.
Friday ro.
Saturday 11.
Sunday 12.
Tuefdey 14.
Wednef, 15.
A VOYAGE TO THE
the maintopfail was fplit ; another was immediately bent
and clofe-reefed. At three in the afternoon the wind
hauled to South by Weft, ‘and the weather grew more
moderate.
Dvurine the roth the wind varied from South South Eaft
to South by Weft, blowing frefh and in fqualls, the weather
dark and cloudy, with frequent heavy rains. Next
morning the wind gradually fhifted to the Weftward, and
at eight o'clock we had a moderate breeze from the North
Weft, the weather ftill thick and rainy; this continued till
four in the afternoon, when we had a light breeze at
North, with clear pleafant weather.
At noon on the rath the latitude was 21° 26" and.
152° 51 longitude.
Wirn a moderate breeze at North I fteered South by
Welt and South South Weft, in order to get to the Eaftward
of Owhyhee, fo that if the wind inclined to the Southward
we could eafily run down the longitude.
On the 14th at noon, being in 20° 4’ latitude and
153° 47 longitude, we fteered Weft by South ;. and at five
o clock in the afternoon faw the land, which we prefently
found to be a high mountain on the ifland of Owhyhee,
with fome patches of {now on its fummit, bearing Weft
South Weft half Weft, near thirty leagues diftant. Having
light winds, we did not fee the land till next day at noon,
when Owhyhee again made its appearance, bearing South
Welt half Wet, eutelné or fourteen leagues diftant. In
Tharfday16. the morning of the 16th, with a frefh breeze at South
Eaft,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Eaft, we ftood to the South Weft for Owhyhee, the North
point bearing Weft by South, eleven or twelve leagues,
and our diftance from the neareft fhore about five leagues.
As we run along the coaft feveral canoes came off to us,
but they had nothing to difpofe of except a few {mall fith:
indeed the wind blew frefh, and there was fo much fea
running, that the natives could not with fafety venture off
with any thing to fell.
Ar noon, having a frefh breeze from the Eaftward, we
ftood to the North Weft by North, about three miles
diftant from fhore. About five o’clock the Eaft end of
Mowee bore North North Weft half Weft, nine or ten
leagues diftant. When night came on we could perceive
large fires lighted in different parts of the country; moft
probably to inform the inhabitants in more diftant parts
of the ifland of our arrival. Early next morning, witha
gentle breeze from the Eaftward, we run along fhore to
the North Weft; and our diftance from it being not more
than three or four miles, a number of canoes were pre-
paring to follow us. After approaching the North point
of the ifland, we founded in rounding the point, and had
about fixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of white fand
and beds of coral rock ; our diftance from the fhore about
two miles. No fhelter was to be feen for fhips to anchor
under, and a very heavy {well fet in fhore, which is prin-
cipally compofed of fteep black rocks, againft which the
furf beats with much violence. Here and there are fine
little {pots of white fandy beach, where the natives gene-
rally keep their canoes. The adjacent country is very
pleafant, and there appeared to be feveral villages fituated
-amidft fine groves of cocoa-nut trees,
U : As
145
C HAF,
Vu.
ee
17386.
November.
Thurfday 16,
Friday 17.
146
CH A P.
VIl.
aed
1786,
November.
Friday 17.
A VOYAGE TO THE
As we run along with a gentle breeze within mufquet-
fhot of the fhore, the natives of both fexes were affembled
on the beach in great numbers, waving pieces of their
white cloth as a token of peace and friendfhip. Ex-
pecting to find good fhelter in a bay fituated on the Weft
fide of the ifland, and near a diftri@ called by the natives
Toeyayaa, at eight o'clock I fent the whale-boat to
found, and look for a harbour. In the mean time, we
ftood off and on under an eafy fail, which gave the na-_
tives an opportunity of bringing us the different produce
of their ifland, which they prefently did in great abun-
dance; fuch as hogs, plantains, bread-fruit, taro, cocoa
nuts, fowls, geefe of a wild fpecies, and great quantities
of excellent falt: for thefe articles we bartered with nails,
towes, and trinkets of different kinds; and fo brifk a trade
went forward, that in the courfe of four hours we pur-
chafed large hogs fufficient, when falted, to fill feven tierces,
befides vaft numbers of a fmaller fort for daily confump-
tion. Near two tons of vegetables, fuch as taro and
bread-fruit, were alfo procured; and fo amply did the na-
tives fupply us with thofe very ufeful articles, that we
were obliged to turn vaft quantities away for want of room
to put them in. Indeed, it would not have been proper
to purchafe more of thofe kinds of vegetables than what
would be fufficient for fix or feven days confumption; for
after that time they begin to decay very faft. We alfo got
about one ton and a half of fine falt, and I immediately fet
twenty hands to kill and falt pork.
_ Tux Indians during the whole day traded very fairly;
but fome of the fpeétators, of whom we had great num-
bers of both fexes, fhewed their ufual inclination for
thieving ;
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
thieving; and one man had dexterity enough in his pro-
feflion to fteal a boat-hook out of a boat along-fide, though
there was a boat-keeper in her, and another crept up the
rudder chains, and ftole the azimuth compafs out of one
of the cabin windows, and got clear off with it, notwith-
ftanding a perfon was fet to look after them over the ftern.
Many other trifling articles were ftole from us in the courfe
of the day; which is {carcely to be wondered at, as I do
not think we had lefs than 250 canoes about the fhip at
once, which certainly contained more than 1000 people.
Wuen our trade was over, the natives entreated us to
ftay near the land, and in the morning they would bring
us abundance of fine hogs. On my making them this
promife, they parted with us in the moft friendly manner,
and paddled on fhore.
Ar five o'clock the boat returned, and the officer who
was in her informed me, that in rowing into the bay
which he had been to examine, he carried foundings from
twenty to twenty-five fathoms water over a bottom of
coral and fand, but that he could find no good anchorage
or fhelter for the fhips: in confequence of which inform-
ation I gave up the intention of proceeding further into’
the bay, and determined to ftand off and on a day or two
near our prefent fituation, to procure a quantity of good
hogs to falt for fea ftock. We tacked occafionally during
the night, and at eight o’clock in the morning of the 18th
the North point of Owhyhee bore Eaft by South four
leagues, and the extremes of Mowee North by Weft, and
North Weft by Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant. With
a light variable breeze we fteered South Eaft towards Owhy-
U2 hee,
9
1786.
November.
Friday 17.
Saturday: 18.
148
“CHAP.
VII.
Sd
1786.
- November.
Saturday 138.
AON'O YA GEO TO. CREE
hee, and by noon were within three miles of the fhore.
Many of our yefterday’s vifiters now came along-fide,
bringing a number of fine hogs and plenty of vegetables,
which we procured on the ufual terms. At four o’clock
it began to blow frefh from the South South Weft; and
the natives having difpofed of their cargoes, left the fhips
and went on fhore. At fix o’clock the North point of
Owhyhee bore Eaft by South, and our diftance from the
neareft land four leagues.
Dvarinc the night we had light variable airs, and fre-
_ quently calm, attended with ftrong lightning to the Weft-
Sunday 19.
ward.
In the forenoon of the rgth I went in my whale-boat
on board the Queen Charlotte, to confult captain Dixon
refpecting our future proceedings. By this time we had
purchafed all the large hogs the natives had brought along-
fide, and probably pretty well drained this part of Owhy-
hee. The fhips were very light, having fuch a quantity
of water expended, and our rigging fore and aft ftood
much in need of repairing and overhauling; fo that we
thought it prudent to quit our prefent fituation and pro-
ceed for King George’s Bay, Woahoo, where we could
lie well fheltered from the prevailing winds, and do ever
thing neceflary both to the hulls and rigging of the fhips:
accordingly, at half paft ten o’clock, with a light breeze at
South South Weft, and very dirty unfettled-looking wea-
ther, we bore away to the Northward, intending to pafs
to the Eaftward of Mowee, and then to run down for
Woahoo. Towards noon the wind began to blow freth
from the Weft South Weft ; and a few canoes which were
along-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
along-fide left us and paddled for the fhore.. The ex-
tremes of Mowee in fight, bore North by Weft half Weft,
and Weft by North, diftant four or five leagues.
Art two o'clock we had a frefh gale from the South
Weft, on which I returned on board my own fhip. The
gale increafing, we clofe-reefed the topfails, and got down
the topgallant yards. Being then within two leagues of
Mowee, with the appearance of very bad weather, we
edged off to the North Eaft, in order to get a good offing
before night came on. A little before dark we faw a
canoe to the South Weft making after us, with a {mall
mat up for a fail, and alfo paddling very hard: on this
we brought to and picked her up. There were four men
in the canoe, befides a quantity of provifions; fuch as po-
tatoes, plantains, &c. It feems they belonged to the
ifland of Mowee; and on our ftanding in for the Eaft
part of it, had put off with their little cargo, hoping to
bring it to a good market; but after we bore away from
the ifland, they found the weather fo bad, with a ftrong
wind direétly againft them, that they could not reach the
fhore ; therefore bore up after us, fet their little fail, and
ufed every effort in their power to get up with the fhip.
I was greatly pleafed that we were fortunate enough to get
fight of them; for they muft certainly have very foon
perifhed, their canoe when they came along-fide being
almoft full of water, and themfelves fo much {pent with
fatigue, that we were obliged to help them up the fhip’s
fide. We got all their things fafe into the fhip, hauled
the canoe in upon deck, and made ufe of every method in
our power to recover them, which had the wifhed-for
4 good
149
Colt Aap;
Vil.
Qa ee
1786. =
November,
Sunday 19.
150
CTH A’P,
VIL.
et
1786.
November.
Sunday 19.
Monday zo.
Tuefday 21.
‘Wednef. 22.
A WOYAGE T On TAIE
good effect ;. and ‘never were men more grateful than thefe:
poor Indians for the little favours we were fo happy in
{hewing them.
Wuen the canoe was got on board, we edged away
again to the Eaftward, and at feveno’clock hauled to the
wind on the: ftarboard tack, it then blowing ftrong from
the South Weft, with thick rainy weather.
During, the night we Jlay-to, and at four’ the next
morning, ‘having a:frefh breeze at South South Weft, and
clear weather, we wore and {tood to the Weftward. |
Ar noon the South part of Mowee bore South half
Weft, and the North point Weft, fix leagues diftant, the
latitude by obfervation 20° 58’. OX
Licur variable winds, chiefly in the Weftern board,
with alternate calms, continued during the afternoon and
night. At eight o’clock in the morning of the a1ft we
faw the ifland of Morotoi, the extremes bearing Weft by
South half South, and South Weft by Weft, diftant eight
or nine leagues; the ifland Ranai alfo made its ap-
pearance, bearing from South Weft by South to South
Weft half Weft, diftant at leaft ten leagues; and Mowee
about nine leagues diftant. At two o'clock, being within
three leagues of Mowee, we tacked and ftood to the North
North Eaft with a moderate breeze from the North Weft ;
at that time the extremes of the ifland bore South Eaft
and Weft by South. The weather being very unfettled,
no canoes ventured near us, but towards noon on the 22d,
having
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
having light winds and clear weather, a number of large’
and {mall canoes from Mowee and Morotoi came along-
fide with the various produce of thofe iflands, which
confifted chiefly of a few fmall pigs, fome fweet potatoes,
and fugar-cane. At one o'clock, finding that a ftrong
current was drawing us in very faft between the Weft end
of Mowee and the Eaft end of Morotoi, we hauled off to
the North by Weft with a very light breeze from the
Eaft North Eaft. At four o’clock, having drawn a little
out, and got clear of the current, which fets ftrong to
the Southward between the iflands, we edged away to the
North North Weft, the wind then blowing a light breeze
from the Eaft South Eaft.
Towarps funfet our vifiters, after difpofing of their
cargoes, took leave of us in a very friendly manner, and
pufhed for the fhore. The extremes of Mowee at that
time bore from South Weft to South Eaft by Eaft, four
leagues ; and the extremes of Morotoi Weft half South
and Weft South Weft half South, five leagues diftant.
In the afternoon of the 23d, it then being nearly calm,
with clear pleafant weather, the Indians that we picked
up off the Eaft end of Mowee, took this opportunity of
going on fhore. I endeavoured to prevail on them to flay
on board until the morning, that I might have an oppor-
tunity of ftanding clofe in fhore, when they might have
gone with greater fafety; but they chofe to go away at this
time, and made light of the diftance to the fhore, though
it was not lefs than five leagues. Thefe poor fellows did.
not go away empty-handed ; for befides the prefents they
6 | had.
1st
Co Hs AP.
Vil.
cae
een bes
Wednef, 22.
Tharfday 232
1 .
November.
Friday 24.
AV O YA GET OF STH
‘had from me, almoft every perfon on board gave them
fome little token of friendfhip; fo that their misfortune
turned out to great advantage.
Tue wind ftill kept to the Southward, with unfettled
weather. At noon on the 24th the Eaft point of Mowee
South by Eaft half Eaft, and the Wefternmoft part in fight
South South Weft half Weft, diftant ten leagues.
I atreapy have obferved that it was our intention on
leaving Owhyhee to proceed immediately down for King
George’s Bay, Woahoo, and there to have done the ne-
ceflary work of the fhips as quick as poflible; but on
getting to the Northward of Mowee, I found the wind
_hang much to the Southward and Weftward, and the
Thurfday 30.
weather very unfettled. The wind from thofe points
blows direétly into King George’s Bay; fo that I judged
it the fafeft method to keep the fea to windward of the
ifland until a true trade-wind fet in with fettled weathet,
and then pufh into the bay, which is exceedingly well
fheltered again{t the winds from Weft by South, around by
the North, to about Eaft; but quite expofed to the other
winds, which feem to prevail a good deal at this time of
the year. Accordingly we plied with variable’winds till -
the morning of the 30th, without any material occur-
rence ; at that time the wind feeming fixed to the North-
ward and Eaftward, and the weather more fettled than it
had been for many days paft, we bore away for Woahoo;
the South point of which at noon bore South Weft by
Weft, fix leagues, and the North point Weft by North,
diftant from the neareft of the iflands eight miles. At
four
ot Fe 4)
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 154
four o'clock we hauled round Dick’s Point, and at five © 4A
came to anchor in King George’s Bay with the beft
bower in twelve. fathoms water, over a bottom of grey egeasber.
fand intermixed with {mall red fpecks, and moored with tee
the ftream-anchor in eleven fathoms. When moored,
Point Dick bore Eaft half South, one mile and a half ;,
Point Rofe Weft by South, fix miles; and the bottom of
the bay North Weft half North, two miles diftant..
154 AlW'O MOAIG £0 (7 'O. (AE
CC AA ie: oy Be
Vifited by Tabeeterre.—-Pernicious Effects of Yava-root.—
Tranfaétions at Woahoo.—W ood purchafed.—An Eatooa
erctled,—The Chiefs make Offerings to their Gods.—
Meditate an Attack on the Ship.—Shewn the Effect of
Fire-arms.—Two Indians embark for Atowi.—Take
leave of Tahbeeterre.—Of an old Prie/t.— Departure
from Woahoo.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay, Atowi.—An
Excurfion on Shore.
CHEAP. FEW canoes came along-fide foon after our arrival
VIII. ;
eS in the bay, but they brought fcarcely any thing to
Noe’... fell; indeed there feem to be but few inhabitants in this
Thurfday 30. bay, and thofe few are of no great confequence. I gave
them to underftand that we wanted water, and directed
them to bring it to us, as they formerly had done: they
would willingly have complied with my requeft, on ac-
count of the nails and beads which they were to have in
exchange ; but affured me that not only water, but ever
thing the ifland produced, was tabooed by the king’s
order.
Finpine things in this fituation, I gave to a man, who
appeared of the moft confequence amongft our prefent
vifiters, a prefent for the king and another for my old
acquaintance the prieft, requefting him at the fame time
to inform his majefty that we wanted water and fuch
refrefh-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
refrefhments as the ifland afforded ; and therefore I fhould
be glad if he would immediately take off the taboo, that
we might obtain a fupply of thofe articles, At funfet the
natives, at my requeft, left the {hip and went on {fhore.
Earzy the next morning we had fome canoes along-fide,
who brought us water and.a few vegetables, notwithftand-
ing the taboo. A number of large and {mall canoes came:
round Point Dick into the bay, and landed at the head of
‘it; prefently afterwards my old friend the prieft paid us a
vifit, and came, according to his former cuftom, in a large
double canoe, decorated. with branches of the cocoanut-
tree. After paddling round the fhip with great folemnity,
and running down every fmall canoe that came in his way,
he came along-fide ; but before he entered the fhip he
enquired for me. On my appearing at the fhip’s fide to
receive him, he handed up a {mall pig, which at his
coming on board he prefented to me, as a token of peace
and friendfhip. Indeed I have before obferved this to be
the ufual practice at all the iflands.
Tue old man informed.me, that in a fhort time the
king (who had juft arrived in the bay with a large fleet of
canoes) would be on board to pay mea vifit, and that when
he returned. again on fhore the, taboo would be taken off,
and the natives at liberty to bring us every thing the ifland
afforded. I. made him a prefent, and alfo gave him one
for the king, which I defired he would carry on fhore
and deliver with hisown hand. ‘The prieft left us about
ten o'clock, and returned again at eleven in his own
canoe, accompanied by many others both large and {mall.
In a-very large canoe, paddled by fixteen ftout men, was
Dae the
195
CH SAPP.
VIIL.
Ww -—_-
1786.
Novembher,
Tharfday 30.
December,
Friday 1.
156
CHCA
VI.
AY WO TOA EOT O¢teai E
P. the king himfelf, attended by many of the principal chiefs.
.—-—» When his canoe approached near the fhip, all the reft
pee paddled off to fome diftance, to make way for his ma-
Friday 1
jefty ; who, after paddling three times round the fhip in
great ftate, came on board without the leaft appearance of
fear, and would not fuffer any of his retinue to follow
him till he had got permiffion for their admittance, which
I gave to eight or ten of the principal chiefs. The king
brought me a few hogs and fome vegetables by way of pre-
fent3 for which I made him a return that feemed to pleafe
him highly: moft of his attendants likewife brought a few
articles, which I received, and gave them in exchange
fuch trifles as feemed to take their fancy, being defirous
. to eftablifh myfelf ona friendly footing at this ifland, that
our bufinefs might go regularly forward, and our wants
be expeditioufly fupplied.
Tut king (whofe name I before have obferved is
Taheeterre) is an exceedingly ftout .well-made man about
fifty years old, and appears to be fenfible, well difpofed,
and much efteemed by his fubjeéts. He inquired whether
we had been at Owhyhee; and on my anfwering him in
the affirmative, he was very defirous of learning fome par-
ticulars refpeéting that ifland and the king, with whom
he feems to be at variance. But I could give him no other
information than that the king was in good health, and
that the ifland was in a very flourifhing condition when we
left it.
TAHEETERRE remained on board the greateft part of the
day, and gave directions to the natives to bring us plenty
of water, and every thing elfe that the ifland produced.
‘Towards
4
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Towards evening he returned on fhore, perfectly fatisfied
with his reception and the prefents I had given him; and
at funfet all the canoes left the fhips.
We foon begun to feel the good effects of Taheeterre’s
vifit ; the natives, now no longer under the influence of
the taboo, brought us water very plentifully, and we
procured a good fupply of hogs and vegetables; fo that I
fet a party to falt pork for fea-ftore ; the boatf{wain and
another fet were employed about the rigging, and the
carpenters in decking the long-boat.
On the 3d Taheeterre paid me another vifit attended as
before, and brought his cuftomary prefent of a few hogs,
vegetables, and cocoa-nuts. Great numbers of canoes
were about the fhip, and multitudes of both fexes playing
in the water, notwithftanding our diftance from the fhore.
My friend the old prieft was almoft conftantly on board,
and, according to his ufual cuftom, drank vaft quantities
of yava, which kept him in a moft wretched condition ;
he feemed quite debilitated, and his body was entirely
covered with a kind of leprous fcurf. The old man had
generally two attendants on board to chew the yava root
for him, and he found them fo much employment that
their jaws were frequently tired, and he was obliged to
hire fome of the people along-fide to chew for him at a
bead for a mouthful. One of the yava-chewers, a very
intelligent man, informed me, that to the Weftward of
Point Rofe, in Queen Charlotte’s Bay, there was an ex-
ceedingly {nug harbour, where the fhips might lie with
fafety. As we hada heavy fwell fetting into the bay round
. Point
15?
CHAP.
VIII,
a el ,
1786.
December,
Friday 1.
Sunday 3;
158
Cue Are.
VIIL
Le
1786.”
Deventer!
Sunday 3.
Monday 4.
Ap 4¥O YA GE, 210} she &
Point Dick, which caufed the thip to roll very much, I
determined, as foon as the carpenter had finifhed the long-
boat, to fend her down to examine it; and if it was found
a fafe fituation, to remove the fhips thither. The diftri&
near which the harbour: lies is) (as I underftood).- called
by the. natiyes Whyteetee; and the yava-chewer, whofe
name is’ Towanooha, and who I found was.a man of con-
fiderable property on the ifland, offered to go in the boat
when fhe was ready, and diced, them to the place; which
offer Iyreadily. accepted.
We were favoured with another vifit from his majefty
on the 4th, and in addition to his ufual prefent, he brought
a large quantity of very fine mullet, which he told.me
were caught ina fmall falt lake at the head of the bay.
He frequently ate with us, but I never could perfuade him
to touch either wine or fpirits, nor did he ever ufe. the
yava, but always drunk water. He feemed greatly de-
lighted with the attention paid to him ; indeed his vifits
were by no means unacceptable; for he not only encou-
raged the natives to fupply us freely with water and other
neceffaries, but at the fame time kept them in good order;
fo that we were not in the leaft incommoded by.the mul-
titudes that were conftantly about us. This afternoon our
water was completed, having, in the {pace of three days,
filled forty butts, befides a. number of puncheons and
brandy pieces ; i eagerly did the natives purfue this pro-
fitable traffic.
We now begun to be in want of fuel, as a great deal
was expended in heating water to {cald hogt and various
other
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
other purpoles. On: fignifying our wants to the natives,
. they brought us/a plentiful fupply of excellent Hiewose:
which we purchafed for nails and buttons.
“ST Che fotehoon of the sth,’ the %c ‘penters’ “Raving
fintfhed decking the long-boat, fhe fel bbs out, arid
fome hands employed in. rigging and getting her ready to
go down to Queen Charlotte’s Bay.
Numpers of fharks were. about, the thip,. four or five
of which ‘we! Caught, and after taking out the livets they
were given to the Indiatis, who thought them very accept-
able prefents, particulatly the old prieft, who got two of
the largeft, and having ordered them to be carefully lafhed
in his canoe, was going to fend them on fhore. ‘On this
occafion a very remhatkabld circumftance happened ; juft
as the prieft’s canoe got a-ftern of the fhip, one oF the
fharks not being fecurely faftened, fell out of the canoe,
and funk to the bottom in eleven fathoms water ; at the
fame time there were feveral large hungry ones‘ fwimming
about, yet an Indian went down with a rope, flung the
dead ak and afterwards hauled him into his canoe,
without any apparent fear of the others that furrounded
him. I found that fharks were efteemed valuable, as they
anfwer a variety of purpofes; they falt the fhark, and
feem very fond of it, the fkin ferves for a cover to their
rum-heads, and the teeth they fix in wooden inftruments
which they ufe as knives.
Tur natives continued to bring 4 us wood, hogs, and
vegetabics, and vaft numbers PueHt the Pind to gratify
their curiof fity : : thofe who had nd canoes would fivim from
the
159°
CHA P.
Vil.
1786.
December...
Tuefday 5.
160
© HA, &.
VOI.
| en aed
1786.
December.
Thurfday 7.
Monday 11.
ALN OY.AG EDO, ES
the fhore, though nearly two miles diftant, and after ftay-
ing all day in the water, {wim away for the fhore with as
much compofure as if they had only a few yards to go.
From the 7th to the r1th we had frefh gales from the
North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, with frequent {qualls
and unfettled weather. A heavy {well fet into the bay
from the South Eaft, which made the fhip roll very
deep.
Durine this interval, the furf running very high on the
beach, few canoes ventured off, and fome that attempted
it were overfet fo often that they gave up their defign ; two
or three canoes however got along-fide in the afternoon of
the 9th, with a little wood and fome bread-fruit, which we
purchafed; and I made them fome prefents in addition,
as a reward for their venturing off at fo much rifk. After
- difpofing of their little cargoes they made for the fhore ;,
Tuefday 32.
but not being able to land, were glad to return to the
fhip again, and take up their lodgings on board. for the
night.
Tue old prieft was almoft a conftant vifiter; fometimes.
indeed he would go on fhore under the pretence of paying
a morning vifit to his majefty ; but I foon found that his.
principal motive was to replenifh his ftock of yava, of
which (as has already heen obferved) he confumed a great.
quantity.
By this time the long-boat was completed, and at eight
o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the weather being
moderate, I fent her under the direG@tion of Mr.. Hayward
to.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
to Queen Charlotte’s Bay, to look at the harbour fo much
fpoken of by the natives, and Towanooha, the yava-
chewer, accompanied him as a pilot.
TaneeTerre paid me a vifit this forenoon, and the furf
on the fhore ftill running very high, he came off in a
fingle canoe, it being much fafer in the furf than a double
one. ‘The king made ufe of a paddle himfelf, and when
he came near the fhip, obferving her to roll very deep,
he would not venture his canoe near her, but jumped into
the water and {wam along-fide ; we gave him a rope by
which he got on board, but the motion of the fhip dif-
agreeing with him, he took leave of me in a very {hort
time, jumped over-board, got into his canoe, and paddled
for the fhore.
My friend the prieft now grew very reftlefs and uneafy ;
en my enquiring the reafon, he hinted that Taheeterre
and his principal warriors were meditating fome mifchief
againft us, and taking me upon deck, he pointed to a
large houfe on the top of a hill over the Eaftern point of
the bay which afcends from Point Dick: :this houfe the
old man affured me was building for an Eatooa, or God’s
houfe, wherein they were going to make great oferings
to their different Eatooas (for almoft every chief has his
feparate one), and to confult them on the ‘event.of an at-
tack, which he affured me they intended to make on us
if their oracles gave them encouragement. He appeared
quite difpleafed with the king’s condué& on this occafion,
and defired we would be conftantly on our guard againft
him.
i THOUGH
161
C.H AP,
VII.
ee
1786.
December.
Tuefday 1260
1786.
Deccan
Tuefday 12.
Thurfday 14.
A VOYAGE TO THE
Tuoucu this piece of information feemed rather im-_
probable, yet I thought it prudent to be on our guard to
prevent a furprife, and at the fame time I ordered a con~
ftant watch to be kept on the cables, to prevent their being
cut by the natives.
I nap obferved the natives building this houfe a day or
two before the prieft pointed it out to me, and had feen
people conftantly going up towards it loaded, probably
with offerings to their different deities.
Towarps noon I could fee, with the help of a glafs,
that the houfe was nearly finifhed, and the natives were
covering it with red cloth.
As I had conftantly treated the king and his attendants
with great kindnefs and attention, I could fcarcely give
any credit to the old prieft; although the hopes of pof-
feffing all the iron they might fuppofe we had on board
might poflibly tempt them to attack us: at any rate, I
determined to admit Taheeterre on board as ufual when-
ever he came, and to regulate my condué by his behavi-
our. Jn the evening the prieft left us and went on fhore,
promifing to return the next day.
On the r4th in the morning a vaft number of canoes
came to the fhips, chiefly loaded with fre-wood; what
hogs and vegetables we now procured being fcarcely more
than fufficient fora daily fupply. Towards noon the king
came off in a large double canoe, attended by a number of
his principal chiefs, all of whom I admitted on board, and
TO Ch treated
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
‘«reated with the ufual freedom, but was well prepared for
an attack if they had attempted it; having all the loop-
holes in the combings of the hatches fore and aft opened, and
twelve or fifteen ftand of arms below under the dire&ion of
proper people, who very foon would have cleared the decks
if the Indians had offered us any violence; befides which,
I had centinels placed in different parts of the fhip, and all
our great guns and {wivels were pointed into the canoes
along-fide, with lighted matches at hand. Taheeterre
could not help obferving our fituation, and {poke of it to
his attendants; notwithftanding which, he behaved in his
ufual manner. After being on board fome time, he was
very defirous to fee the effects of our fire-arms, which I
fhewed him, by difcharging a piftol loaded with ball at a
hog that ftood at fome diftance, and killed it on the fpot.
The king and his attendants were ftartled at the report of
the piftol ; but when they faw the hog lie dead, and the
blood running from the wound, they were both furprifed
and terrified; and I have not the leaft dopbt but this
inftance of the fatal effets of our fire-arms made a deep
impreflion on their feelings, and prevented them from
attacking us.
Tue king ftaid on board near two hours, and after re-
ceiving a fmall prefent took his leave; informing me at
the fame time, that he intended to leave the bay, and re-
turn to his refidence at Whyteetee in the evening. I could
not help remarking, that immediately after Taheeterre left
the fhip, all the canoes left us and paddled to the fhore in
different parts of the ‘bay, but the greateft number of
them landed in the Eaftern: part of it, where the king had
a temporary refidence.
Bee eke. Soon
163
CU cAr'?,
VIL.
WJ
1786.
December.
Thurfday 14.
164
GH AP.
vill.
———~
1786.
December.
Thurfday 14.
Friday 1s.
Ay WWOTY) AF GR sion Wt Hira ;
Soon afterwards the old prieft came on board, “not in a
large double canoe as ufual, but in a {mall old: crazy one
that would fcarcely {wim, and appeared as if he had come
off by ftealth. The moment the old man got upon deck
he began to tell me that the king was a great rafcal, per-
fifted in his former ftory, and begged me to watch him
narrowly. After haranguing for a fhort time, he left me
and went on board the Queen Charlotte, where he fpent
the remainder of the day. By this time our wooding
bufinefs was completed, having purchafed a quantity fuf-
ficient for at leaft fx months confumption.
Next morning at eight o’clock the long-boat came
along-fide, and Mr. Hayward informed me, that on going
down to the place where his guide conducted him in
Queen Charlotte’s Bay, he found a {mall bay with very
deep water, clofe to a fandy beach, where the natives
generally landed with their canoes, but no place for a
fhip to ride in with fafety ; adjoining to the beach, ina
beautiful valley, furrounded by fine groves of cocoanut-
trees and a delightful country, there was a large town,
where (as Towanovha informed him) the king generally
refided, and the diftri@ round it was called Whyteetee.
According to Mr. Hayward’s account, there were very
few canoes in the bay; neither did he fee any great num-
ber of inhabitants; fo that we may reafonably fuppofe
they were come into. the bay where we lay, led either by
bufinefs or curiofity.
Nor a fingle native came near the fhips for two days,
and their canoes were hauled out of fight, but we could
.perceive vaft numbers of the inhabitants about the houfe
OT
5 4. -
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
on the hill. During this time our people were bufily ©
165
AteRe
VIL.
employed about the rigging, and getting the fhip ready Ae ad
Z ,
for fea.
December.
Ar daylight in the morning of the 17th the old prieft, sundsy :7,
attended by his yava-chewer Bowanicohe: came on board.
The old man feemed quite enraged at ie king’s recent
conduét ; he told me that the king and all hig principal
ahactl bad been making offerings to their gods, and con-
fulting them; but that the gods were good for nothing,
and that the king and his adherents were no better than _-
villains, for intending to do us any mifchief, after the
many prefents they had received from both fhips. I thanked
my old friend for his intelligence, and told him that we
fhould be conftantly on our guard.
For fome days paft I had been ftrongly importuned by
Towanooha, and a very fine young man of the firft confe-
quence in the ifland, who was a-conftant companion of
the king’s, to take them along with me to Atoui; and
indeed Taheeterre had more than once urged me to take
them; but I never thought they were in earneft until this
forenoon, when the young chief, whofe name is Paapaaa,
came on board, and joined his entreaties with thofe of
Towanooha in fo very preffing amanner, that I promifed to
take them on board; and they returned on fhore in order
to prepare themfelves for the paflage. The yava-chewer,
being now as it were a gentleman paflenger, no longer
confidered himfelf as a fervant, but took to drinking yava.
heartily, and laid in a plentiful ftock of that root.
IN
166
CH AP.
Vil.
Le — -—/
1786,
December.
Sanday 17.
Monday 18.
AC OMY A GEE STOW TS
In the afternoon we had a frefh gale from the Eaft
North Eaft, with frequent fqualls, which prevented any
canoes coming near us. ‘Towards evening I obferved the
natives. uncovering and pulling to pieces their new-
built houfe on the hill; and about eight o’clock feveral
large houfes were on fire along fhore near the bay;
but as we had no Indians on board, I could not learn
whether they were fet on fire by accident or defign, till the
next morning, when the old prieft and our two paflengers
coming on board, I enquired the reafon of the fires we
had feen on fhore the preceding evening ; and was given
to underftand, that they were EFatooa’s, or houfes belong-
ing to gods wich whom the chiefs were difpleafed; there-
fore out of revenge they had burnt gods and houfes both
together. In the forenoona great number of large and {mall
canoes came off and brought usa tolerable fupply of various
forts of vegetables anda few hogs. Since our water was com-
pleted, having expended feveral cafks, I directed the natives
-to bring us a further fupply, which they very foon did in
great abundance. The king alfo, with his retinue, paid
me a vifit; at his firft coming on board he feemed rather
fhy, but upon the whole he conducted himfelf nearly in
his ufual manner. On my taking notice of the red houfe
on the hill he appeared a good deal confufed, and waving
that converfation, begun to talk about his two countymen
who were going withig me to Atoui. He feemed very much
intercfted in Paapaaa’s welfare; he particularly requefted
me to take care of him and oor him well, and if we
{topped at Atoui, he begged that I would eave him. un-
der the care of Taaao, who it feems is brother to Tahee-
terre, and a relation of Paapaaa’s. The two paflengers
‘ afked
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
afked me for a few trifles to leave among{t their friends
before they fet off, which I readily gave, and alfo made
the king a prefent ; on which he took leave of me for the
laft time, and after taking a very affecting one of his coun-
trymen, particularly of Paapaaa, he quitted the fhipand went
on fhore ; the other canoes remained along-fide to difpofe
of their cargoes, and we procured a fupply of good hogs,
which enabled me to fet the falters to work again. In the
afternoon the rigging was fet up, the fails bent, and every
thing ready for fea,
In the night the Queen Charlotte parted her bower-
eable and brought up with the other bower. I fent a
boat the next morning to aflift them in creeping for the
end of their cable, which was fortunately hooked in a
fhort time, and the anchor was recovered before noon. On
examining the cable, fome were of opinion that it had
been cut by the natives, and it certainly bore that appear-
ance a good deal.
Ar four o'clock we began to unmoor, as I popofed
getting to fea with the breeze that ufually blows out of
the bay in the night, but in a fhort time we found the
flream-cable gone about three fathoms from the haufe ; as
we lay in ten fathoms water, this part could never have
been at the ground, and we never had rode the leaft ftrain
by it; fo that I was convinced it muft have been cut by
the ladies: We had a buoy on the anchor; therefore
I fent the long-boat to weigh it, and we begun to. heave
a-head on the beft bower: juft as we had got a ftay-peak
the beft bower alfo parted four fathoms from the anchor ;
on
Ned
LT
December.
onday 18,
Tuefday 19.
17386.
Deas ber.
Wednef. 20.
A-VOYAGE TO THE
on this we immediately let go the {mall bower, and
Fide ek up for the night. The Queen Charlotte having
weighed, and ftanding out of the bay, we made the fignal
to Bacher, on which fhe ftretched inthe bay, and came-
to clofe by us. At daylight the next morning we warped
to the buoy of the. beft bower, and weighed the anchor,
and at the fame time weighed the {mall bower and got
under fail with.a light breeze from the North Eaft.
Tue old prieft was. ftill on board along with-my new
paffengers, and we were followed by feveral canoes ; but
towards noon the friendly old man took his leave, and I
made him a prefent, with which he was highly pleafed ;
he then went on board the-Queen Charlotte, to:take leave
of captain Dixon, and foon afterwards left the fhips, ac-
companied by the other canoes, and paddled for the fhore.
At noon the extremes of Wicauae bore Weft by- North
half North, and North Eaft half North, diftant from the
neareft part of the ifland about three leagues: On getting
in the bower-cable that had parted, we found it a good
deal rubbed by the coral fand, of which the bottom where
we anchored is chiefly compofed ; and on examining the
place where it parted, I-was of opinion that it had been
cut with a knife, until the cable was opened, when I
found all the yarns cut in the fame manner, and no doubt
by rubbing on the coral fand.
Tue befi fituation for anchoring in King George’s Bay
is near the :middle of it; and Sbane a mile from the reef ;
where there are fix and feven fathoms water, over a bite
of dark fand entirely free from coral; but asthe inconve-
nience
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
nience of our fituation was not difcovered till we were
leaving the place, we had no opportunity of changing it
for a more eligible one. :
We ftood to the South Weft with a light Eafterly breeze
till night, when it grew nearly calm, and next morn-
ing the wind hauled to the Northward and Weftward.
At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore from North by
Weft half Weft to North Eaft three quarters Eaft, fix
leagues diftant. The wind frefhened during the night,
and at eight o'clock next morning blew a ftrong gale at
North North Eaft, with dark rainy weather. Soon after-
wards the ifland of Atoui made its appearance, bearing
North Weft by Weft, feven or eight leagues diftant. . To-
wards noon the weather grew more moderate ; and being
then within feven miles ‘of Atoui, we ftood on for Wymoa
Bay, and at two o'clock anchored in thirty-five fathoms
water, over a bottom of fine black and grey fand. As I
knew the bank to be very fteep, and the wind blowing
frefh, I was afraid our anchor would ftart off ; to prevent
which we wore away to a cable and a half, and then the
fhip lay in forty-eight fathoms water over the fame bot-
tom; one cable’s length aftern there was one hundred fa-
thoms, and a little further we found no ground with, the
deep fea‘line. Soon afterwards the Queen Charlotte let go
her anchor a little within the King George, but by check-
ing the cable too foon, fhe dragged it off the bank and
could not get it to catch again with a whole cable out;
therefore got her head off fhore, hove their anchor up,
and made fail; but finding they could not get up to us
before night came on, they ftretched well in, and anchored
about a mile and a half to the Weftward of the nage
P Z Oo
169
€i Hy ASPs
Vill.
1786.
Dieses
Wednef, zo,
Thurfday 24.
Friday 22.
170
1786.
December.
. Friday 22.
Saturday 23.
Sunday 24.
CHAP.
Vil.
AIVOY AGE JT. O;TAE
of Wymoa and a frefh-water river, and oppofite a large
grove of cocoanut-trees that lie near the Weftern point of
the bay.
Tue King George lay to the Eaftward of Wymoa;
that town and the river bearing North by Weft, the Eaft
point of the bay bore Eaft by South a quarter South, and
the Weft point North Weft by Weft half Weft, our dif-
tance from the neareft fhore about two miles.
SEVERAL canoes came off foon after our arrival, bringing
abundance of fine taro. I enquired for the king and my
old friend Abbenooe, and was informed that they, to-
gether with moft of the principal chiefs belonging to the
ifland, were at Apoonoo, a town fituated towards the
North Eaft part of the ifland, where the king ufually
refides ; but the natives told me the king and his retinue
would fhortly be down at Wymoa. I defired the natives
to bring a fupply of hogs, which they promifed to do or
the morrow ; and indeed I had no reafon to complain of
their want of punctuality ; for at daylight the next morn-
ing we were furrounded by canoes, which brought a
number of very fine hogs for falting, and great plenty of
taro, {weet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-cane; and
on my afking for water, they prefently got into the method
of fupplying us, and brought off great plenty of excellent
water.
Next morning at eight o’clock I went on fhore to
Wymoa, accompanied by my two paflengers and one of
the failors, with an intention of walking round the
Weftern point of the ifland, in hopes of finding a well-
fheltered
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fheltered bay for the fhips to ride in. After getting ‘on
fhore, I was received by a vaft multitude of the inha-
bitants in the moft friendly manner, and prefently we
were joined by a few people of fome confequence, who
offered to accompany us in our walk, which I readily
accepted, and found them of great fervice in keeping the
crowd at a diftance, though they did not gather round
us with a mifchievous intention, but on the contrary, to
render us any little fervice in their power. After walking
two or three miles along the fhore, we fat down to takea
little refrefhment. During our {hort repaft, a chief named
Tiaana (who I underftood was brother to the king) joined
us, and preffed me very much to walk back to Wymoa
and eat with him there. As I was very anxious to find out
a good bay for the fhips, I declined this friendly requeft,
but promifed to call on him at my return, on which he
took his leave with many profeflions of friendfhip, and we
continued our walk along fhore. :
By three o'clock we got to the North Weft point of the
ifland, and I found all that part of the coaft open and
expofed, with a very heavy furf rolling in on the beaches.
Being difappointed in my fearch for a harbour, I begun to
think of returning on board; but after we had walked
four or five miles, I found it would be impradticable for
us to reach Wymoa before night came on; at this time
we were not far from a comfortable houfe belonging to
Abbenooe ; therefore I determined to take up my lodging
in it for the night, and my companions were glad to em-
brace the fame opportunity, as they were greatly fatigued
with their walk. We arrived at the houfe about funfet,
and one of Abbenooe’s men, who had joined us in the
Zi 2) courfe
17a
CHA #.
VIII.
ed
1786.
December.
Sunday 24.
172
CH A PLP.
VIL.
Re eed
1786.
' December.
Sunday 24.
Monday 25.
A VOYAGE TO THE
courfe of the afternoon, gave directions for a hog and a
dog to be immediately killed and drefled for our fuppers,
together with a large quantity of taro. The houfe was
well lighted up with torches made of dry rufhes, and at
eight o'clock fupper being ready, it was ferved up in great
order, and I think few ‘people ever ate a heartier fupper
than we did. My friend’s man aéted as matter of the cere-
monies, and ferved the provifions to each perfon; and
after our feaft was ended, he ordered the remains to be
taken care of, as he told me it was for us to eat before
we fet out in the morning. We got up next morning at
daylight, and finifhed the remains of the preceding even-
ing’s repaft. Previous to our quitting the houfe, there
were near an hundred women about it, moft of them with
children in their arms; they were very inquifitive to know
my name, which they pronounced Po pote, and fuch of the
infants as could {peak were taught by their mothers to call
on Po pote: on this I diftributed fome trifles amongft
them, with which they appeared highly fatisfied.
We walked towards Wymoa, and reached the fhore
a-breaft of the Queen Charlotte about nineo’clock. I de-
fired my companions to walk down to Wymoa; and being
very anxious to get on board, I took a canoe and went
on board the Queen Charipas, where I found my owa
whale-boat, and got on. board the King George towards
noon.
Durine my abfence they had carried on.a brifk trade
for provifions, and I had the pleafure of fecing the decks.
full of fine hogs for falting.
ng | BEING
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 17%
Berne now well affured that Atoui afforded no place for © 1A ?-
the fhips to ride in equal to Wymoa Bay, I determined to He
keep our fituation a fhort time, for the purpofe of falting Decnber
pork for fea-ftore, and afterwards to proceed to Oneehow Eel ae
for a fupply of yams, and to remain there till the proper
feafon for the profecution of our voyage to the coaft
of America.
COM AYP.
IX.
eed
1786.
December.
Monday 25.
A VOYAGE TO THE A
Cok AvP dK
Lariety of Refrefoments procured.—V ifited by the King. —
Prefents given and received.—Deplorable Situation of
an old Warrior.—Ceremony of the Tabooara.—A re-
markably large Shark caught.—Grateful Behaviour of
Neeheowhooa.—Arrival at Onechow.—Obliged to cut
the Cables in a Gale of Wind.—Leave three Invalids on
Shore.—Anchor again in Yam Bay.—The Sick return
on board.—Leave Oneehow, and arrive at Atoui.—Re-
markable Circumftance of a Woman with a Puppy at
her Breaft.—Chiefs exercife with Spears.—Houfe built
for Captain Portlock.—The Ships leave Atoui and arrive
at Onechow.—Recover the King George's Anchors.—
Attempt on the Life of an Atoui Chief.—Departure
from the Sandwich Iflands.
N the morning of the 25th Tyaana, the chief whom I
faw on fhore, came off in a large double canoe, and
brought me a prefent of fome hogs and vegetables, which
I received, and made him a return that pleafed him very
much. He infermed me that the king, accompanied by
Abbenooe and a number of other principal chiefs, would
be down in a day or two, and in the mean time we fhould
be plentifully fupplied with every thing the ifland pro-
duced. After many profeflions of friendfhip Tyaana took
his leave and returned on fhore. Soon afterwards I fent
the whale-boat on fhore to Wymoa for the failor I left
I cl behind
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
behind along with Paapaaa and Towanoha; my man tfe-
turned with the boat, but the other two chofe to remain
on fhore a day or two amongft their new friends, and I
underftood they were greatly carefled by the natives in
general.
Besipes hogs and vegetables, the natives brought bafs
and grafs rope to barter, which we purchafed, as it was
likely to prove ufeful for various purpofes. The natives,
finding we encouraged this traffic, were very bufy on fhore
manufacturing rope, which they did very expeditioufly,
and brought off whole coils made of green rufhes and grafs;
this we bought for the purpofe of rounding the cables,
and the bafs for running rigging.
Tue natives continued to bring us am abundant fupply
of fine hogs, fruit, and roots, and a large party were
conftantly employed in killing and falting pork for fea-
ftore. In the forenoon of the 28th we obferved a number
of canoes come round the Eaftern point of the bay, and
-foon afterwards my good friend Abbenooe came on board,
but fo much reduced, and fo covered with a white {curf,
from the immoderate ufe of the yava, that I fcarcely knew
him. He brought two canoes loaded with different kinds
of provifions, as a prefent for the two fhips: after flaying
a fhort time with me, he went on board the Queen Char-
lotte with the prefent he intended for captain Dixon ; and
returning again in the evening, took up his lodgings
with us.
On the 2gth the wind blew very frefh Ben the Eaft
North Eaft, with frequent heavy {qualls from the land,
which
17§
CHAP.
IX,
1786.
December.
Monday 25.
Thurfday z?-
Friday zo
1y6!..
CH are.
(eens
1786:
Déeeniber!
Saturday 30.
WoWOYA CECT O! THE
which prevented the king - from coming off’ to the fhips ;
but the weather growing ‘moderate towards night, | Abbe.
nooe went on fhore early the next morning, and returned:
at nine o’clock, in company with Taaao and moft of the
principal chiefs belonging to the ifland. His majefty:
brought me a very handfome prefent, confifting of hogs,
taro, ‘cocoa~nuts, ’ and. plantains, _ together with: cloth,
mats, and feveral elegant’ feathered cloaks; all which he>
infifted on my receiving: accordingly they were got into
the fhip, and I made him an Sen return,
- Paapaaa and T owanoha behing now on board, I took
an opportunity of introducing them to the king, agree-
ably to Taheeterre’s requeft: previous to this, I gave them
a few trifling articles which they prefented to him, and
were received with great affability and kindnefs, and he
affured me that ‘they: fhould be under his immediate
protection.
Accorpine to my expectation; I found that Abbenooe
was a man highly efteemed by the fone who confulted
him on every occafion.
TAaao appears to be about forty-five years old, ftout
and well made, and feemed the beft difpofed man that
we had met with amongft the iflands. He offered me his
friendfhip in the moft earneft manner, and affured me
that we fhould be well fupplied with every thing this
and the adjacent iflands afforded: he requefted Abbenooe
to femain on board, in order to prevent any difputes
arifing between our people and the natives in the courfe of
their traffic.
HE
Be Ap 4 ;
Q A farifeol
Dy
—Litishit June 17.1780,fy fn Vockdale& LY Ypordlding,.
Be Salil of Wit
ff
'
aon,
Stee sa
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Tue king and his retinue ftaid on board about two hours,
and gratified their curiofity in looking at different parts of
the fhip, which they feemed greatly to admire. After
taking leave of me they went on board the Queen, Char-
lotte, where they ftopped a fhort time, and then returned
on fhore. Abbenooe attended his majefty to fee him fafely
landed, and afterwards came on board for the night ; and
as he conftantly took up his abode with us, I had ordered
a cot to be hung for him in the cabin, which pleafed him
’ fo much that he never flept out of it.
Vast numbers of canoes came off on the 3rft, bring-
ing hogs and vegetables as ufual; the king-alfo paid me a
vifit, accompanied by an elderly man named Neeheowhooa,
who I underftood was his uncle, and a perfon of the firft
confequence. This old chief has, it feems, in his time,
been one of the greateft warriors that Atoui, or any of the
iflands could boaft of, and has been greatly inftrumental
in fettling them uniter their prefent kings Taheeterre and
Taaao; indeed his very appearance befpoke the hardy
veteran; his body was almoft covered with fcars, and he
was quite acripple; and to add to his diftrefling fituation,
he had entirely Joft one eye, and the other was in a weak
ftate, occafioned by fome wounds he lately had received
in battle, and which were beyond their art to heal. Taaao
appeared very unhappy on account of his uncle’s fituation,
and perhaps thinking that we could perform wonders,
begged of us to cure him. I recommended him to the
care of my furgeon, who wafhed his wounds, applied
dreflings to them, and gave him fome frefh ones, which
he was directed to make ufe of once a-day. Neeheow-
hooa feemed perfe&ly to underftand the furgeon’s inftruc-
a tions,
177
Cc HtA Pp,
IX.
ae |
1786.
December.
Saturday 30.
Sunday 31.
178_
C Hi sA BP.
IX.
a —
1786.
December.
Sunday 31.
1787.
January.
Monday 1.
ANY QyY AiG EIT Oy Hrs
tions, and promifed to follow them in the. moft punctual
manner. After remaining on board a few hours, Taaao
and his uncle left us, highly pleafed with the treatment
they had received.
_ Tuer next morning fcarcely any canoes were to be feen,
though the weather was very fine: on my afking Abbe-
nooe the reafon, he told me they were detained on ac-
count of a tabooara being laid on by the king. The
tabooara it feems is a kind of tax which the king impofes
on ‘the property of thofe fubjeéts whofe plantations are.
near at hand, and confifts of a certain portion of their
various produce. At Abbenooe’s requeft, I attended him
on fhore to fee the ceremony, and indeed I could not but
admire the order and regularity with which the natives
conduged themfelves on this occafion: men, women,
and even children, paid their contributions with cheerful-
nefs and good-will; fome brought hogs, others taro,
bread-fruit, and indeed every thing the ifland produced 3.
all which were placed in feparate heaps..
Taaao and moft of the principal chiefs attended to fee
the tabooara pundtually complied with, and when it was
finifhed, the whole was divided into two parcels, which
the king told me were a prefent for the two. fhips, and
defired me to fend boats on fhore to carry them off. I was
greatly pleafed with the king’s generous method. of pro-
ceeding, and determined he fhould not be a lofer by his
liberality, though I happened to have nothing on {fhore.
that I thought a fuitable return for fo noble a prefent.
After taking a very friendly leave of me, the king re-
tired to a houfe fituated a little to the Eaftward of the
TIVery
oe
a .
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
179
river, where he refides when at this part of the ifland; © 4A ?.
and I went off in the long-boat, accompanied by m
friend Abbenooe. Before night we had get the whole of
our prefent on board, and the tabooara being over, the
canoes came about the fhips as ufual.
On the 2d and 3d the wind blew very frefh at Eaft by
North, with frequent fqualls ; during which time we had
but little intercourfe with the natives, and our ftock of
vegetables was nearly expended: however, Abbenooe, ever
anxious to fupply our wants, went on fhore’ to procure a
fupply of hogs and roots, ready to come of when the
weather grew moderate, and early in the morning of the
4th he returned on board, and informed me that he had
got a number of hogs and vegetables ready for us. The
weather being now pretty moderate, I fent the long-boat
on fhore at eight o'clock, and foon afterwards followed
myfelf in the whale-boat, accompanied by Abbenooe.
The fea being very fmooth, we landed with the boat on a
beach a-breaft of the village of Wymoa; and whilft the
people were getting the hogs and other provifions into the
long-boat, we walked two or three miles up a valley,
which leads from Wymoa towards the mountains. This
valley abounds with taro, which is planted in trenches that
contain about fix inches depth of water; the taro-grounds
are divided at convenient diftances by raifed foot-paths,
which, as well as the trenches, are made of ftones in a
very regular manner, and muft have coft the natives an
infinite deal of time and trouble. Abbenooe conduéted
me to a large new houfe belonging to him, fituated at
fome diftance up the valley, and very well built after their
manner ; here we fat down a little while, and after taking
Aa 2 fome
1787.
January.
Monday 1,
Tuefday z.
Wednel, 3.
Thurfday 4.
180,
C..H, A P.
IX,
Reena nm!
1787,
January.
Thurfday 4.
Friday 5.
A VOYAGE, TO. FHE
fome refrefhment, returned to Wymoa.- By this time
they had got every thing into the long-boat, and we took
¥ g y g tong
a paffage in her on board. During my abfence they had
purchafed a number of fine hogs, and great plenty of taro,,
potatoes, &c. fo that we again begun to kill and falt pork
for fea-ftore.
In the afternoon we caught a fhark, fo very large that:
it was obliged to be hoifted out of the water with a tackle;
it meafured thirteen feet and a half in length, and eight feet
and a half in circumference, and the liver fix feet ; its.
mouth was fo large, that it admitted the head of a
puncheon with eafe. On the fhark being opened, there
were found forty-cight young ones in her, each about eight
inches long, two entire turtle weighing about fixty pounds.
each, befides feveral {mall pigs, and a large quantity of
bones. The liver was kept for oil, and I gave the fith to:
the natives, who feemed to regard it as an ineftimable
treafure.
Taaao paid me another vifit on the 5th, accompanied:
by his eldeft fon, named Taaevee, a very fine boy about:
twelve years of age. The king told me that he intended!
this as a farewel vifit, as he intended to return to Apoonoo:
very fhortly, but that Abbenooe fhould remain on board
and accompany us down to Oneehow, which ifland and its
produce he prefled me very much to accept of as a prefent;,
and defired Abbenooe to take care that the natives fupplied:
us well with yams, without taking any thing in return ;
but I begged (if he would not permit them to fell: the:
produce of the ifland) that they might be fuffered to re-
ceive fomething for their trouble in. digging and bringing: |
: a
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
off the yams to us; which at length he reludantly af-
fented to, and after receiving a prefent that feemed to
pleafe him. highly, he took leave of me in the moft
friendly manner, as did his fon and the attending chiefs ;
to each of whom, on parting, I gave a {mall prefent, and
they went on fhore with the greateft appearance of fa-
tisfaction..
Amoncst the perfons of confequence who attended
Taaao on his farewel vifit, was his uncle Neeheowhooa :
his wounds were getting better, and he feemed quite at a
lofs how to exprefs his gratitude and thankfulnefs; he
begged permifiion to. come on board every day to have them
drefled, and feemed to think they would foon be healed.
After attending his nephew on fhore, he returned with a
large double canoe full of hogs, fora prefent to the furgeon
and myfelf, as a token of his gratitude. I took the hogs
en beard, but we declined receiving them. as a prefent,
though it was with fome difficulty I prevailed on the old
warrior to receive any thing in exchange. I defired him
to come daily on board to have his wounds drefled,. which:
pleafed him very much, and he went on fhore highly fa-
tished with the treatment he received.
On the 7th the king in a large double canoe, attended
by feveral. others, left the bay Lasith fet off for Apoonoo.
Abbenooe ftill ‘oaiatiiedl on. board the King George, and
we found him a moft ufeful perfon: if ever any little.
difpute arofe in our traffic with the natives, he. always:
fettled it to general. fatisfaction..
181
@ BAP.
IX.
Nn ne
1787.
January.
Friday 5,
Sunday 7:
95
tO ea
CLEA. P:
IX.
Ramen, rege
1787.
January.
Monday 8.
“Tuefday 9.
Wednef. 10.
AS V0, YANG IE 2 De@ ocr ee
We itill were furnifhed with a few hogs and vegetables,
and the natives brought us a plentiful fupply of fire-wood,
fome of which made very good hand{pikes and capftan-
bars; and as we began to run fhort of thefe articles, the
carpenter fet about making fome. Not many canoes
making their appearance to-day, I fuppofed a number of
the natives had gone to their ref{pective homes, having dif-
pofed of the articles they had brought for aes _ fatisfied
their curiofity.
Preasant weather, with light variable winds from
Eaft North Eaft ; the anchor-end of the beft bower cable
being much worn, we yefterday cut about nine fathoms
of it off, and this day were employed in rounding it
with grafs rope; a few hogs were purchafed, and fome fire-
wood; feveral hands employed in fawing up and ftowing
the wood away. But few hogs brought to-day ; I fup-
pofed that we had bought nearly all the natives wifhed to
part with, and fhould for the future think ourfelves well
off in procuring a fufficiency for our prefent ufe. The
canoes belonging to the bay conftantly attended us; their
principal cargoes confifted of cocoa-nuts, very fine fugar-
cane, and Baie and grafs-rope.
Emptoyep purchafing wood and bafs-ropes, and gettingall
clear for fea; at feveno’clock, up topgallant-mafts and yards;
and at eight hoveup and came to fail witha light breeze from
the Northward. Between nine and ten it fell quite calm;
at eleven a gentle breeze fprung up from the Weftward,
with which we run in and anchored again in Wymoa Bay.
I think a number more canoes muft Shane come into the
5 bay
NOR TERIWEST COAST, OF SAMERIC A. 183
bay during the night; for we had more about us now © HA P.
than I have feen fince our arrival in the bay. We bought ——
a -few very good hogs; but the chief of their remaining January.
merchandife feems to be now confined to what: we term ““"“?®
curiofities ; fuch as their country cloth, mats, fpears, and
various other articles.
On the rrth, employed in preparing for failing; dark Thortayi:,
cloudy weather and rain. At fix o’clock, with a freth
breeze from the North Eaft, we weighed and came to fail;
Queen Charlotte and the long-boat in company. After
clearing the bay, made fail for the South point of Onee-
how ; our diftance from the neareft fhore about three
leagues ; my firft officer, who had been dangeroufly ill,
now recovered, and does duty again.
From the rath to the 16th nothing particular occurred, Tuetday 16,
' when we came to anchor in Yam Bay with the beft bower,
in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fand.
When moored, the following bearings were taken; namely,
the North point of the bay 26° Eaft, diftant three or four
miles, and the end of the reef that runs from that point
North, 15° Eaft; the higheft part of the South Head run
over the low land of the bay South, 37° Eaft; the South
points of ,the bay, 15° Eaft, diftant three or four miles;
the ifland of Tahoora South, 43° Weft; the ifland of
Onechow North, 25° Eaft;, and the bottom of the bay
North, 60° Eaft, diftance about a mile and a half. We
found a very heavy fwell rolling into the bay, which caufed
fuch a furf on-the beach as-made it very dangerous for the:
natives to come off with any thing. Queen Charlotte
not in fight; went on fhore to defire the natives to bring
us.off a fupply of yams; the furf {till continued fo heavy on
the
184
CHH, A oP:
IX.
4
1787.
January.
Tuefday 16
Wednef. 17.
Thurfday 18.
ALN OY AGE SHO rR ae
the fhore, that the natives could have no intercourfe with
us, and is very different to what we found it when we were
here before; as then I fafely landed with our whale-boat,
and fhe might have remained on the beach without any
danger of filling. At that time there was no Wefterly
fwell, and the true trade-wind prevailed, which is by no
means the cafe at this time. Towards noon the weather
cleared up a little, when fome canoes came off with a
few yams, juft fufficient for a prefent fupply.
On the r7th about ten o'clock I went on fhore with
the whale-boat, accompanied by Abbenoce; and as the
furf ran even too great for canoes, we were obliged to row
in under the reef, where we found a place that the boat
could lie at her anchor with fafety ; and we. went into a ca-
noe to go on fhore, but were overfet by the furf before we
reached it, and were obliged to {wim for it. After land-
ing, we walked about feven miles to the Northward along
the hills, at fome little diftance from the beach; but in
our walk I obferved the coaft all along to be very foul,
and no place equal to Yam Bay to ride in. The country
feemed very poorly cultivated, and Abbenooe told me,
that fince we took our ftock of yams in, the people have
in a great meafure negle@ted the ifland, barely planting
enough for their own ufe; and that fome had entirely left
the ifland, and taken up their future refidence at Atoui.
Towards evening we returned on board. The Queen
Charlotte not in fight.
On the 18th and roth the carpenter employed in
caulking the fides, the people working up junk, and the
armourer at the forge, The furf on the beach appearing
II not
rete
NORTH WEST COAST GF AMERICA.
not very high, I gave the firft watch leave to go-on fhore;
they went on fhore in our own boats, and had-canoes to take
them on fhore from the boats; notwithftanding which,
they were overfet, and fome of them would undoubtedly
-have been drowned, had not the natives fwam into the
furf and got them fafe on fhore. In the evening the
whale-boat returned, having from the South feen the
Queen Charlotte at a confiderable diftance.
Tuts day feveral of my people had liberty to go on
fhore ; all of whom returned ‘except three, who were in
a very poor flate of health, and whom I thought of
letting remain a few days till they got better ; and Ab-
benooe had provided a comfortable houfe for their recep-
tion, and ordered them to be fupplied with every refrefh-
ment the ifland afforded. Prefently after, a heavy gale
coming on, obliged me to cut our cables and run out of the
bay, followed by the long-boat. We-were under the ne-
ceffity of leaving our three invalids-on fhere ; but they
were perfe&ly fafe, and taken proper care of. Ab-
benooe and feveral others of the Indians were on board at
the time, and went to fea with us; after-getting a little
ofang we fteered to the Northward, meaning, if the Weft-
erly «winds continued, to go through between Atoui and
Onechow, ‘and join the Queen Charlotte, who I fuppofed
was ftill to the Eaftward of Oneehow, not having an oppor-
tunity of getting down to the bay.
From the 21ft to the 26th kept ‘beating off and on
about Oneehow and Atoui, without being able to come
to anchor till the 26th in the South point of Yam Bay.
Cur Indian vifiters very impatient to get on fhoxe again,
which
185
CH oP:
Ix.
Nee,
1787.
January.
Thurfday 18.
Saturday zo.
Sunday 21.
186
CH A P.
1X.
——
1787.
January.
Saturday 27.
A VOYAGE TO THE
which the heavy furf ftill running prevented. The Queen
Charlotte came to anchor about two miles to the South-
ward of us.
A ueavy fea continuing, made it dificult for any ca-
noes to get to us;-at laft a few ventured off from Yam
Bay ; one of them called along-fide the long-boat, which
I had fent into the bay on the 22d, to endeavour to get
in the ends of the cables if he found it praéticable, and
lie at them till I fhould arrive with the fhip. They
_ brought me a letter from the officer, acquainting me, that
on his arrival in the bay the flip-buoy of the beft bower
was gone, and that after getting hold of the flip-buoy
rope of the ftream-cable, before they had well got it
taught, it parted, being chafed off by the motion of the
rope againft the coral fand. In their canoes alfo came our
three invalids, who had been on board the long-boat ever
{ince their anchorage in the bay. Thefe people had been:
very well treated by the natives during their flay on fhore ;
and in confequence of their not feeing the fhip return fo
foon as they expected, the Indians fuppofed we had gone
to Wymoa to remain, and were juft at the time when the
long-boat made her appearance in the bay, about taking
them to Atoui in fome of their canoes to join the fhip ;
but on the long-boat’s arrival they fent them immediately
on board her, and brought with them the flip-buoy of
the beft bower-cable, and the buoy of the ftream-anchor,
both of which broke a-drift and drove on fhore during the
night after we cut out, at which time it blew very flrong
from the South Weft, with a very heavy fea. Abbenooe
went on fhore with an intention of procuring a ftock of
yams fog us, and to get them at the farft oPRRr ena ;
II the
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the weather continued ftill fo bad that we could not make
any trial for our anchor.
From the 28th: to the goth the weather ftill fo very
{qually, that we could not attempt getting our anchors,
and not thinking it fafe to lie in our prefent fituation, we
weighed and came to fail; the Queen Charlotte and the
long-boat in company, Aisha to the Southward to clear
the ifland of Oneehow; and as the wind ftill lay to the
Northward and Weftward, which prevented us doing any
thing towards recovering our anchors, I meant to anchor
and get a frefh fupply of provifions.
On the 31ft came to anchor in Wymoa Bay with the
{mall bower in twenty-nine fathoms water, over a bottom
of fine muddy black fand. When moored, we lay nearly
abreaft of the river and the town of Wymoa, from which
we immediately had a fufficient fupply of provifions of
different kinds.
Varrousty employed on board. Abbenooe difpatched a
meffenger to the king to acquaint him of our arrival.
On the 2d, 3d, and 4th, employed in working up
junks, painting the fhip, and other neceffary jobs. |
A GENTLE breeze from the South Weft, with fine wea-
ther. I gave the fecond watch leave to go on fhore: a
number of Abbenooe’s people attended them by his order, to
prevent quarrels between the feamen and the natives, and
to furnifh them with provifions. His orders were punctually
attended to. In the evening, when the people returned,
I found not a theft had. been attempted, but they had
Bb 2 been
187
© #HA P.
IX.
Le
1787.
January.
Sunday 23.
Wednef. 31,
February,
Thurfday 1,
Friday z,
Monday 5.
+188 A VOYAGE TO THE
“HY ® been treated with every luxury the ifland afforded, and
— that in a moft friendly manner. A remarkable circum-
Estey ftance, related by Mr. Goulding, a volunteer in the fer-
ond 5° vice, fhews the great regard the natives have for their
dogs: in walking a confiderable way along the fhore, he
met with an Indian and his-wife; fhe had two puppies,
one at each breaft: the oddity of the circumftance induced
him to endeavour to purchafe one of them, which the
woman could:not,. by all his perfuafions or temptations,
be induced: to part with ; but the fight of fome nails had
fuch powerful attraGtions upon the man, that he infifted
upon her parting with one of them. at laft, with every
fign of real forrow fhe did, giving it at the fame time an
affeGtionate embrace. Although he was at this time a con-
fiderable way from the fhip, the woman would not part
with him till they arrived where the boat was lying to
take him on board, and. juft upon his quitting the fhore
the very earneftly intreated to have it once more before
they parted ; upon his complying with which, fhe imme-
diately placed it at the breaft, and after ier time re-
turned it to him again.
Turs day, at my requeft, two chiefs that were on board:
from Wymoa exercifed: with their fpears; the dexterity and
aftonifhing expertnefs {hewn by: them: wonderfully furprifed
every one on board; one of them, whofe name was Na-maa-
te-e-rae, that is, blind of one eye, is a well-made man of
‘about five feet fix inches high,. his {kin much affected by his
immoderate drinking of yava ; and though he appears to be
a perfon of very little property, is yet much refpected,
and his company courted by all the principal men of the
ifland. I fuppofe the attention paid him proceeds from
his having been, and fill remaining, a great warrior; the
8 lofs
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
lofs of his eye, one informed me, he met with in battle
by a ftone flung from a fling; but this accident does not
prevent him from being a Bice expert warrior; his manner
of exercifing gave us fufficient proofs to the contrary. He
took his ftand about three or four yards from the cabin-door,
unarmed; the other perfon ftood at about eight or ten
yards diftance from him, provided with five fpears ; upon
the fignal being given for commencing action, a {pear was
thrown with the utmoft force at Na-maa-te-e-rae, which
he avoided by a motion of the body, and caught it as it
paffed him by the middle: with this {pear he parried the
reft without the leaft apparent concern; he then returned
the fpears to his adverfary, and armed himfelf with a
Pa-ho-a; they were again thrown at him, and again par-
ried with the fame eafe. One of the fpears ftruck a con-
fiderable way into the bulk-head of the cabin, and the
barbed part was broken of in endeavouring to get it out,
The remarkable coolnefs he fhewed at the time the {pears
were caft at him, proved at once his courage and ex-
pertnefs. All who were fpectators of the fight {hud-
dered at the danger he feemed expofed to, and were afto-
nifhed to fee with what eafe he parried every thing that
was caft at him.
Tuts day I gave the third watch leave to goon fhore; the
reft of the-people varioufly employed; moderate breezes
and fine weather. Being on fhore myfelf, with my old
friend Abbenooe, I obferved in the village of Wymoa,
about three hundred yards from the beach, a ftring of four
or five houfes, tolerably large, in very good order, with-
out inhabitants; on my afking Abbenooe the reafon of
— being tabooed, he informed me that they were houfes.
built:
189
¢ HLA F.
87.
17
February.
Monday 5.
Tuefday 63
‘rge
A VOYAGE, \TO) FRE
CHAP ‘built for the king, whenever he honoured Wymoa with
ot a vifit, and that no perfons whatever were allowed the ufe
1787.
February.
Tuefday 6.
of them in. his abfence; he likewife informed me, that
the king had given him dire€tions to build me a houfe ona
clear fpot juft to the Weftward of thefe houfes, and that
he had brought me to this place for me to point out a
fituation to my own liking. For fome time I declined
accepting the favour; but my friend’s earneft intreaty made
me at laft confent to gratify his generofity, and I fixed on
a {pot. No fooner had I given my confent than workmen
were immediately employed; fome were fent to fetch
wood from the country, others to bring a kind of long
grafs for thatching; all of which orders were received
with the greateft fatisfaGiion, every one wifhing to exert
himfelf to the utmoft, and delighted with the idea of
having their friend Po-poo-te amongft them. Near the
{pot I fixed on I procured a large flat ftone, on which I
etched the initials of my name, the country I ferve, and -
the year of our Lord; I explained as well as I could the
meaning of this to my friend, who appeared much pleafed
with it: I defired he would caufe the ftone to be placed in the
«entre of the houfe. One very great inconvenience attends
their houfes, which is their want of windows; the extreme
hot weather they have fo much of makes it very uncom-
fortable and clofe ; but they feem to think it a matter of
no confequence to guard againft any thing but the rains
and cold. When they find it too warm, they direétly go
into the water te coal themfelves, it being a matter
of indifference to them whether it is night or day.. I re=
quefted of my friend, in the building of my houfe, I
might have windows in it, one at each end, one on each
fade the door, and one at the back, for the benefit of both
heht
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 19!
light and air. He faid it fhould be done as I defired; © BA ®
and every thing being fettled to general fatisfaction refpect- ——s
. ing the building, we proceeded up the valley, attended by fara
a number of the natives of both fexes, young and old, 7“ *
who behaved with the greateft. hofpitality and friendfhip,
prefling me earneftly to go into every houfe we came to,
and partake of the beft fare in their power to give ;. and’
numbers of the mothers bringing me their children:
to ho-ne, that is falute them, by touching nofes;. my
compliance with which: feemed to give them infinite fa-
tisfaction; and I can fafely affirm. it gave me equally as:
much: I was delighted to fee fo much happinefs in the
faces of lundreds of the Indians whom we had. formerly
fo much reafon to think were a treacherous people... This:
excurfion gave me a frefh opportunity of admiring the
amazing ingenuity and induftry of the natives in laying.
out their taro and fugar-cane grounds ; the greateft part
ef which are made upon the banks of the river, with ex-
ceeding good caufeways made with ftones and earth, lead-
_ing up the valleys and to: each plantation; the taro-beds:
are in general a quarter of a mile over, dammed in, and
they have a place in one part of the bank, that ferves as a
gateway. When the rains commence, which is in the.
winter feafon,. the river fwells with the torrents from the.
mountains, and overflows their taro-beds; and when the
rains are over, and the rivers decreafe, the dams-are ftop--
ped up, and the water kept in to nourifh the taro and
fugar-cane during the dry feafon ; the water in the beds
is generally about one foot and a half, or two feet, over
a muddy bottom; the fugar-cane generally in lefs water,
grows very large and fine, and is a great article of food
with the natives, particularly the lower clafs; the taro
alfo
192 Ao iV OX AG Fo SPO) 2 Ee
CHAT. alfo grows frequently. as large as a man’s head, and is
——~ efteemed the beft bread-kind they have; they frequently
February. make a pudding of it, which they keep till it becomes
tueiisy a little four, and then they are very fond of it, preferring
it to every thing elfe. The Indians that were a little
while at fea with me almoft fretted themfelves to death
when their ftock of po-e was exhaufted, which was very
foon done, from the immoderate quantity they ate of it.
I have feen my friend Abbenooe eat near two quarts of it
at a meal, befides a quantity of fifh or pork. While we
were walking among thefe taro-beds a number of the
natives were in them, gathering it and fugar-cane to
fupply the fhips; they were up to their middle in water.
After gratifying my curiofity amongft the plantations, my
friend accompanied me to a large houfe fituated under the
hills on the Weft fide the valley, and about two or three
miles from the fea-beach. I found this houfe to be very
large, commodious, and clean, with a new mat on the
floor ; on the left fide of the door was a wooden image of
a tolerably large fize, feated in a chair, which nearly re-
fembled one of our armed chairs ; there was a grafs-plat
all round the image, and a {mall railing made of wood;
befide the chairs were feveral to-e’s and other {mall ar-
ticles. My friend informed me that this houfe had been
built with the to-e I had given him upon my firft calling
at Oneehow, and that the other articles were prefents
that I had made him at different periods, and that the
image was in commemoration of my having been amongft
them. Few people were admitted into this houfe.
Amoneft ether articles in it were feveral drums; one in
particular was very large, the head of which was made out
of the fkin of the large fhark I have already mentioned ;
and
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
195
and. I was told thefe drums were dedicated to their gods. © 4,4
We had fome refrefhments ; fuch as pork, falted faith, taro, —
plantains, and cocoa-nuts, and then returned to the beach. Pebraary.
The long-boat being in fhore to take off fome provifions of bet asc! 2
different kinds that were collected by a taa-boo-a-ra, or
general tax laid on the natives by the king; I ordered the
officer in her to remain at anchor a little diftance from the
beach until fome of the things came down; and during
the whole time had great reafon to be well fatisfied with
the natives who attended, fome in canoes, others fwim-
ming about. I went off in the long-boat, accompanied by
Abbenooeand fome other chiefs, who were highly delighted
with the fail to the fhip, as there happened to be a very
brifk breeze; the method of fteering with the rudder
took much of their attention; and Abbenooe took a fpell -
at the helm, and faid that he would try to fteer their
canoe in the fame way. On my arrival on board I found
every thing in good order. It is not in my power to give
half the praifes that are due to thefe people, from the king
to the tow-tow ; their attention and unwearied induftry in
fupplying us with every thing in their power was beyond
example; their hofpitality and generofity were unbounded ;
and their eagernefs to do us acts of kindnefs was amazing.
I hope, by the help of their own ingenuity, they will be
enabled, from their obfervations upon our methods of fail-
ing, building, &c. to bring thefe articles among themfelves
to much greater advantage than they are at prefent. My
friend Abbenooe’s attachments to both fhips companies
was fingular; in general he flept on board the King
George, where I had a cot hung up for him in the cabin,
with which he was very much pleafed; the old man had
fome falls before he was ufed to it, by getting in at one
c fide
194
A VOYAGE TO THE
Cie f. fide and rolling out at the other’; but he always got up
Se aa again with the greatelt ¢ good nature, and in a very little
1787.
February.
Wednef, 7.
Thurfday 8.
Friday 9.
time furmounted that difficulty.
_On the 7th the people were employed in getting pro-
vifions, which Abbenooe ‘informed me he had got ready
for the boats. About ten o’clock the boats returned well
loaden with hogs and other provifions.
Tuts day the king arrived in the bay, attended by fe-
veral large canoes ; he came on board, and appeared very
well pleafed at the friendly imtercourfe that fubfifted be-
tween his fubjects and us. Our people always ‘went on
fhore unarmed, which prevented the natives having any
apprehenfions of danger, and created a mutual confidence
in each other. ‘The king ftaid on board a few hours, and
I then attended him on board the Queen Charlotte, to fee
captain Dixon.
From the oth to the rath nothing particular occurred..
Light winds from the Weftward, with clear pleafant wea-
ther. ‘The fwell from South Weft ftill continuing, led me
to think that we fhould have the wind again from that
quarter 5 and not wifhing to ride out another Weftern gale:
in our prefent fituation, I determined the firft opportunity:
to weigh and get out of the bay. About ten o’clock the
wind hauled to the Weft North Weft, with which we
‘weighed and ftood: out of the bay: the Queen Charlotte
in company. At nine o’clock, the Queen Charlotte being
a confiderable way a-ftern, we wore {hip and hove-to, with
‘the fhip’ s head to the Northward, to give her an opportunity
of joining us. ‘Three canoes came off with provifions.
After
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
‘After having fold. their cargoes, they took their leave of us;
as did our fitatal friend, who left his fon on board, withing
to go with us.~ The Queen Charlotte in company. From
this: day to the 16th nothing particular occurred.
Earty on the 16th our old friend Abbenooe came off
from the Eaft point of Atoui in a large double canoe, and
brought us a fine hog and fome taro. I mare him a pre-
fent, with which he was fatisfed, and immediately went
on Bane the Queen Charlotte ; ait on his leaving her, I
bore away to the Weftward, intending to run for Onechow,
to make a trial for the recovery of our anchors left there.
Should I fucceed, I meant then, if poflible, to return to
Wymoa Bay, and endeavour to get the Queen Charlotte’s
{mall bower. I fhould, if there had been any dependence
on the weather, have tried for her’s firft; but as. the
195
CH AP.
IX,
—_y
1787
February.
Friday 16.
anchors at Oneehow were the greateft object, and there was _
the moft likely probability of getting them (lying in fhoal-
water, and the beft bower having a buoy on it), I was
glad to embrace the firft fpurt of good weather, with an
Eafterly wind, to make the trial; as a Northerly, South-
erly, or Wefterly wind create fuch a fwell, that it would
make it impoflible to do any thing of that kind. At fix
o'clock we brought-to withthe main-topfail to the maft. My
reafon for taking this f{tep was, that in cafe the breeze fhould
fail, and prevent us from proceeding to Oneehow, we
might be near Wymoa in the morning; from whence
there was a probability of procuring fome vegetables.
When we brought-to, the extremes of Atoui bore about
North and North Weft, about feven miles diftance, until
daylight, when the appearance, of the wind being fettled
to the Eaftward, we bore away, and made fail for Onee-
Cc 2 how.
1096
CHAP.
IX
:
1787.
February.
Friday 16.
Saturday 17.
Sunday 18.
AV OY AGB TON mt fae
how. Served half a pound of bread fer man, and a pound
anda half of frefh pork. At noon the extremes of Onee-
how bore Weft South Weft; diftance from South-head
about five leagues. The clouds to the Weftward flying
from South South Weft, and a fwell from the South Weft,
induced me to bring-to, and wait until thefe appear-
ances of an approaching Wefterly wind fubfided. I think
we may with great truth affirm, that during the time
we were among thefe iflands we had more difagreeable
weather and crofs winds, than was experienced in the Re-
folution and Difcovery during their whole voyage, which
was upwards of four years.
MoperateE breezes from the Eaft South Eaft and South
Eaft. About two o'clock pafied the South-head of Onee-
how, and run towards Yam Bay; and at five anchored
with the fmall bower in twenty-nine fathoms, over fine
white fand; the Queen Charlotte anchoring at the fame
time a little to the Southward. The weather continuing —
fine, all hands were up, and began to look for our anchors ;
both of which, in the courfe of the day, were recovered,
and got on board. |
AsouT two o'clock in the morning began to un-
moor, got the kedge on board, and began heaving in the
bower cable. The weather beginning to look unfettled, with
a {well continuing from the Weftward, led me to think we
fhould very foon have bad weather, and a Wefterly wind.
Experience had fufficiently taught me that we could not
ride in this Bay with the wind any way to the Weftward of
North or South, without imminent danger. At five weighed
and made fail: the Queen Charlotte in company. Stood
to;
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
197
to the Weftward until we got a convenient diftance from © HA ?
the land, which was when we loft hearing the furf, and ——
then Norkhverd: During the night fteered from North Peters
Weft to North Eaft, with a moderate breeze. The wind °!*
chopping fuddenly round to the South Weft, with rain
and every appearance of bad weather, frckaded: me to haul
to the North Weft, under the three topfails, till daylight,
which was about fe o'clock ; bore away to the North
Eaft at feven; faw the Weft part of Atoui, bearing Eaft
by South, Jiftenit eight leagues; and at half paft feven
faw the Weft part of Oneehow, bearing South, diftant
feven or eight leagues. About ten the weather cleared
up, and the wind light and unfettled, from Eaft South
Eaft to South. At noon a moderate breeze; the ifland
of Atoui bearing from Eaft to South Eaft by South, diftant
from the neareft part about fix leagues; our courfe about
Eaft for the North fide of Atoui; latitude 22° 29’ North.
During the time of working for our anchors I employed
fome hands in procuring yams, falt, and water, which
the natives brought us off in {mall quantities, and before
we got under fail I think we had purchafed yams enough
for three or four days. I cannot too highly commend the
behaviour of both the fhips companies during the whole
of the voyage to this time ; fometimss trifling differences
have arifen; but I think I may venture to fay there never
were lefs among fuch a number of people; their attention
and unwearied induftry during the time of getting our
anchors, without the leaft{ murmuring or backwardnefs,
delighted me, although they had fcarce time to. fwallow a
mouthful of victuals.
Ar
198
~ Hn FP.
IX.
Cn, ed
1787.
February.
Monday 19.
Wednef, 28.
A VOY AGE TO. T HS
Art one o'clock a fine breeze from the South; fteering
Eaft by South, along the North fide of Atoui. Iwas in
hopes that as we drew near the North fide of the iflands
we fhould have canoes off with hogs and vegetables. "We
had pretty well drained the South fide. As to Onechow,
I believe were the hogs all collected together, they would
not amount to a dozen; and I was afraid we fhould
fall very fhort of a fupply of yams, as my old friend
Abbenooe informed me, that fince the ftock we before
carried from the iflands, they have neglected cultivating
the land. Indeed his information agreed with my own
obfervations while on fhore; tor I walked over a great
deal of ground lying entirely wafte. It appeared to me
that a number of the natives that formerly inhabited this
ifland have quitted it to refide at Atoui; probably the
iron which they procured from us formerly, enabled them
to purchafe pofieflions in Atoui; as Oneehow is but a
poor fpot, abounding in fcarce any thing but yams, po-
tatoes, fugar-cane, and the fweet root, with a very trifling
quantity of wood: whereas Atoui is amply provided with
many articles of provifions, particularly the taro, which
the natives prefer to yams or potatoes ; and I am {fenfible
that none of them will live at Oneehow that can procure
a fufficiency to refide at Atoui. During our run along the
North and Weft parts of Atoui, we faw no appearance of
any harbour. Latitude 22° 14’ North.
From the 20th to this day the people varioufly em-
ployed on board, repairing the rigging, &c. ftanding off
and on for a favourable wind to take us to Wymoa Bay ;
where we anchored this day with the fmall bower in
thirty-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
thirty- feven fathoms water; black muddy fand; the Eaft
point of the bay bearing Eaft three quarters Sale and the
Weft point North Weft by South; the river’s Prout North
half Weft, and the valley that runs up from the village of
Wymoa North Kaft half Eaft; our diftance from the
fhore about two miles. Made an attempt for the Queen
Charlotte’s anchor without fuccefs. No canoes coming to.
us this evening, made me fend the whale-boat in fhore to
purchafe fome taro.
Lieut variable winds, with pleafant weather; the
people employed in procuring provifions; moft of the
canoes having left the bay with the greateft part of the
chiefs, and gone to Apoonoo. This day a man of fome
‘little confequence, named No-ho-mi-te-hi-tee, who had
been very often on board, and rendered us a.good deal of
ailiftance in procuring Aer prefled me very much. to
take him into the {hip with us. The man appeared fo very
earneft in his folicitations, that at laft I confented to his
going in the fhip, and meant to have given him a trip to
the North Weft coaft; and at our next touching at thefe
iflands, either to have left him there or brought him to
England. He informed me, that he had collected a, num-
ber of little articles, which he made a prefent of to his
father, a very old man, almoft worn out with age. But
Poo-a-re-a-re, one of the king's meffengers, who rules
with unbounded fway when the king and_ principal
chiefs are from the ifland, knowing the old man was pof-
feffed of a great many ack, went to him and demanded:
all his treafure, confifting of a few, to-es, beads, rings,.
and various little articles which his fon had given) him.
The old man denied having any thing; for he had
12 taken:
199
CURL Are
10.¢
GET
787.
eS
Wednef, 28.
Marchi
Thurfday 1.-
200
Sle
—
March.
Tharfday I.
ACY OFF A G8 TO) STV
taken care not to lodge them in his houfe, but had de-
pofited them in a hole in the ground at a convenient dif-
tance from the houfe. The meffenger ftill perfifted in his
telling him where they were, and the old man continuing
obftinate, the meflenger caught hold of him by the
throat, and threatened that if he would not deliver up
his goods he would murder him; and indeed he had
nearly ftrangled him before he would thew him where his
treafure was depofited. At laft the old man was obliged
to difcover all, which was immediately taken away by ‘the
mefienger. Rig oer etiiecee landed with his canoe juft
at the time, and faw his father in this fituation, but did
~ not interfere; perhaps not for want of courage, but dread-
ing to lay hands on a meffenger of the king’s, who are
held in great efteem. He left his father to get out of the
affair, and came on board as before related. Being pretty
late in the evening, and knowing we never allowed any of
them to come on board in the night, he took good care to
call frequently out for Po-pootee, in a moft piteous tone, to
let me know it was he, and that he wanted to come on
board, which he did. He then told me his forrowful tale,
and wanted me to punifh the meflenger for his ill behaviour ;
but had I been inclined to do it, I could not; for he
never after that put himfelf into my power. No-ho-mi-te-
hi-tee in a few days after that, being tired of living on falt
provifions, left me; and I had no opportunity of feeing
the king or ‘A bledboe before I left the iflands, to inquire
what was done about it. From this time to the 3d, em-
ployed in getting provifions, when we weighed and came
to fail (Queen Charlotte in company), and ftood out of
the bay, with an intention to proceed immediately to the
coaft, leaving for the fecond time thefe friendly iflands.
13
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
~
GoPieAs Pont x.
Paffage from the Sandwich Iflands to the Coaft of America.
—Good Effects of Beer made of the Sweet Root.—Ar-
rival at Montague Ifland.— Anchor in Hanning’s Bay.
—Boats fent on a trading Expedition —Meet with a
Veffel from Bengal.—Their diftrefing Situation.—Re-
frefoments fent tothe Nootka.—Plan of future Proceed-
ings.—Vifited by a powerful Tribe of Indians.—Their
Propenfity to Theft.—Departure from Montague Ifland.
—The Ships feparate—Arrival of the King George in
Hinchinbrooke Cove. .
W*. now proceeded for the coaft a fecond time, and
till the 19th nothing of material confequence oc-
curred. Latitude 26° 2’ North. This day, concluding my-
201
Chin Aj Ps
X.
aaa
Mack.
felf about twenty- -five or thirty leagues to the Eattward of Monday 19.
the Refolution and Difcovery’s track Buco ed: the coaft, and
nearly in the latitude that the iflands of Saint Maria la Gives
are laid down, having a {trong gale with very thick weather,
I did not ane. it prudent to run during thenight; there-
fore at fix o'clock handed the forefail ad broupkeses un-
der clofe-reefed maintopfail, mizen-ftay-fail, and foretop-
mait-ftay-fail; fhip’s head to the South Welt, . Queen
Charlotte brought- to clofe under our lee quarter. _ During
the night it continued to blow very hard, with heavy
_ {qualls from the South South Eait.
Dd From
202
CHAP.
xX.
Ree teen!
1787.
April.
Thurlday 12.
Monday 16.
An iV OY AGENT OCT He
From this time to the 12th of April we kept our courfe
for the coaft; latitude 52° 46’ North. Both fhips companies
were very wells except the carpenter of the Queen Char-
lotte, who haa been a long time troubled with a lingering
complaint ; and Richard Greenhult, one of my quarter-
mafters, who had been very ill at the iflands, had reco-
vered amazingly, and was now out of danger.
Tue method of brewing the {weet root having already
been taken notice of, at this time I fhall only obfetve,
that three quarts of molafies were put into fix gallons of
beer, in addition to a pint of effence of malt; and after
being a fhort time in bottles, it was nothing inferior to
the fineft cyder. Richard Greenhult had a bottle given
him daily, and it was found of infinite fervice to him;
indeed its good effects were almoft inftantaneous ; and it
certainly is a moft excellent and valuable raed for
the poor man was fo reduced with an almoft continual
{pitting and vomiting of blood, that at one time my fur-
geon was of opinion he could not live many days.
We kept ftanding to the North Weft, with freth breezes
in the Southern and Weftern- boards. On the.16th, the
water being much coloured, we tried for foundings, but
got no bottom with 140 fithomns of line. Our latitude
at that time was 58°10 North, and 147° 18’ longitude.
In our laft paflage to the coaft, in nearly the fame ae
and 2° 15° longitude to the Weltward of our prefent ane:
ation, we ftruck foundings in feventy fathoms water,
which inclines me to think, that after getting to the Balt
ward of that longitude, though in the fame latitude, the
water
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
water deepens very much; and to the Weftward of that
longitude, and in the fame latitude, it fhoals, efpecially
on drawing towards Cape Greville, or the Ifle Saint Her-
mogenes. At three o'clock in the afternoon we faw a
feal, and paffed feveral patches of the fea-leck, and pieces
of drift-wood, but got no foundings with 150 fathoms
of line. . :
Our latitude at noon on the 17th, by double altitudes,
was 57°54; at the fame time the latitude, by account,
was 58° 25°: this difference I paid no regard to; as there
was a probability that neither the watch or the altitudes
were to be depended on; but on fpeaking captain Dixon,
I found he had got an altitude by his time-piece when it
Was very near noon, which gave the latitude 57° 50’;
fo that we muft have been fet by a current during the laft
twenty-four hours, thirty-five miles to the Southward.
Indeed the laft year, when we were about this coaft, we
found almoft a conftant current fetting to the Southward.
Towards evening, judging that we were not more than
ten leagues from the South Weft point of Montague Ifland,
I hauled the wind to the Weftward, under an eafy fail,
in order to wait for daylight to run in for the land; but
in this I was difappointed ; for foon after midnight it be-
gan to rain, and the weather grew very thick. About
three o’clock in the morning the weather cleared a little ;
and being very anxious to make the land, we bore away
with the wind at South by Weft, and fteered North Welt
by Weft. This however was of fhort continuance; for in
lefs than an hour the weather again became very thick, and
the wind began to blow very frefh at South ; on which we
hauled to the wind, and founded with 150 fathoms line,
Didi;2 but
203
Cl HAP.
x.
en a
April.
Monday 16,
Tuefday 77.
Wednef. 18,
204
CURIETALER:
x.
nd
1787.
April.
Wednef, 18.
“Monday 23.
Toecfday 24.
AS INYO: YOR GS EOE Oc tea
but got no bottom. We now had a fucceffion of frefh:
gales and thick dirty weather, which caufed us to ply
occafionally : as I did not think it prudent, under fuch
circumftances, to ftand in for the land. Strong gales, at-
tended with thick hazy weather, continued with very little
intermiffion till the 23d. On that day at noon, being in 59°
11’ latitude, and 148° 15” longitude, we had foundings in’
feventy-fix fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, with {mall
black fpecks and black ftone; and at two o’clock the land
made its appearance through the haze, intirely covered’
with fnow, bearing from North North Weft to Weft by
South, about eight leagues diftant: but foom afterwards:
the weather grew thick, which prevented me from getting’
a good fight of the land, fo as to be certain of our exaé
fituation. The fog rather difperfing at four o’clock, we
again faw the land bearing Weft by South, which at firft I
took for the South Weft point of Montague Ifland ; but
prefently afterwards land was feen bearing North North
Kaft, which I immediately knew to be the point juft
mentioned ; and the land bearing to the Weftward to be
the land to the Weftward of the pafiage into Prince
William’s Sound. We continued ftanding on to the North:
Welt till feven o’clock, when we wore and ftood to the
Eaftward. Juft at this time the weather cleared up, and
gave us a good fight of the land, and paflage into’ the
Sound; the middle of which bore Nerth North-Eaft, about: |
eight leagues diftant.
Durine the night we flood to the Eaftward under an
eafy fail, and at daylight the next morning we ftood in
for the South Weft point of Montague Iland with a light
breeze at North Weft, under all the fail we could make.
9 At
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At eight o’clock having a fine breeze at Weft South Weft,
we fteered North for the entrance; the Eaft fide of which
bore North by Eaft, and the Weft fade North, diftant from
each point five or fix leagues. At nine o'clock the Weft
point of Montague I{land bore North Eaft one fourth
205
CAH YALE:
1787.
April.
Tuefday 24.
North, five leagues diftant, and the middle of the pafiage
North half Eaft. I now judged that we were in about
thirty-five fathoms water, and on founding we had thirty-
four fathoms over a bottom of fand: and fhells.. 1 have
found from experience, that in going off in the fame di-
rection the water deepens gradually, and in about fifty fa-
thoms there is a muddy fandy bottom; but on crofling.
that direction either to the Eaftward or Weftward, the
water deepens very quick into eighty, and upwards of
one hundred fathoms. The wind failing us a little, the
whale-boat was fent a-head to tow. At noon, the ex-
tremes of Montague Ifland in fight bore Eaft by South five
miles, and North by Eaft four leagues, our diftance from
the neareft fhore about three miles. On founding, we had
fixteen fathoms water over a rocky bottom. Our ob-
fervation gave 59° 50 latitude, and, according to the bear-
ings and diftance of the South Weft Point of Montague
Ifland, I made its latitude to the 59° 47’, which I am
certain is right within. a mile or two. In Captain Cook’s
chart that point is fituated in the latitude of 59° 36,
which is eleven miles too much to the Southward; but as
he had no opportunity of getting an obfervation near it,
and trufted to his fhip’s run, he might eafily make a mif-
take of eleven miles. | Mr. Edgar in his chart has placed
it very near the truth. According to good obfervations
taken ef the fun and moon on board both {hips a fhort’
time before we made the land, and brought forward by
the
206 A VOYAGE TO THE
“CHAP. the fhips run, we agreed i a mile with the longitude,
~~ which Captain Cook has laid the South Weft poe down
1787
Ap an in.
Tuefday 24.
Ir may not be amifs to obferve, that all fhips coming
into this harbour ought to keep the fhore of Montague
Ifland on board as clofe as they can; for if they get off
into the channel, and over towards ae. Weft fhore, they
will foon bring fixty, feventy, and eighty fathoms water,
and that depth too clofe in fhore for anchoring.
Towarps one o'clock an appearance of a good bay or
harbour prefented itfelf on the Montague ifland fhore, to-
wards which I directed my courfe. he bay is farysaedk
five or fix leagues within the South Weft point of Mon-
tague Hand, and nearly a-breaft on the ifland that. forms
che Welt fide of the Channel. At two o'clock the whale-
boat, was fent to found and examine the bay. In the fpace
of an hour fhe returned, and the officer who was in her
reported that the {hips could ride in it with fafety. On
this I hauled in for it, and anchored at four o’clock in
twenty fathoms water over a muddy bottom. We moored
with the beft bower in twenty-one fathoms over the
fame bottom. In running into the bay juft off the South
point, we had feven and eight fathoms water over a
bottom of black mud and fand. This bank appeared to
run nearly acrofs the mouth of the bay, | and l, after pafling
it, we deepened the water to twenty-one fathoms, in which
depth we anchored. When moored, the South point of
the bay bore South Weft by South two miles and a half,
and the North point North North Well half Weft, two
miles diftant, our diftance from the ne eft fhore dbour
one
TrreNorth
og
ah
0
SKETCH oF MS LEoOnD's HARBOUR,
on the
West Sir orMonracr i.
DMPO
SY .
7
Variation 24°.
Tine North
Published June 7.1789, ty J Ste rhetale tO Gonddins.
A I ih ee eg eh
: : :
=e
a
pihsaeens erbey
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
one mile. - On looking round the bay, I thought I could
perceive it to take a fhort turn round a point nearly at the
bottom, on which I went accompanied by Captain Dixon
to examine it. We carried good and regular foundings to
the faid point, and found that a fhip ‘ould lie in four
and a half and five fathoms water, with the South point of
the bay juft fhut in with this point at about a cable’s length
from the fhore. The inner point may be taken clofe on
board, as it is quite bold; the bottom of the bay is
flat.
Berore I left the fhip we were vifited by five canoes,.
fome with one man in, and others with two; but I was
207
C HLA ®.
ere, need
17 °7s
April.
Tuefday 24.
rather furprifed to find lags they had not the fkin of any
animal among them. They had many beads of various
forts, particularly fome fmall green and fome yellow ones,
which they feemed to value very much; and I obferved.
they were of the fame kind with thofe we faw in Cook’s
River the laft fummer. Our vifitors frequently repeated.
the word Woorka, pointing at the fame time up the
‘Sound. Never having either at this place or in Cook’s
River heard the natives make ufe of this word before, I
was induced to think that they had been taught the word:
by fome vifitors who had recently been at Nootka, and I
was prefently convinced that there had lately been fome
people trading with them; for, on my asking after the
fea otter fkin, I was given to underftand that. they had fold.
all their. {kins toa fipoee. Molloy, who I could under-
ftand had left the Sound. This piece of information,
however incorreé& it might be, gave me {mall hopes of
our being able to do any thing in Prince William’s Sound;
however, I thought it was but right to try for it, anil
| only
6
208
CoH A Le:
ox
ed
1787.
April.
Tuefday 24.
Wednef. 25.
AWV OYA GEOT OUT Ae
only to wait in this place for an opportunity of proceed-
ing up. Towards evening our vifitors left us, and paddled
out of the bay, after ftealing feveral fifhing-lines that
were hanging overboard. The only wind to which this
bay is expofed is at South Weft, and with that wind a
veflel may run before it into the harbour, leaving the
North point on the larboard hand. After hauling clofe
round, and bringing that point on with the South point of
the bay, a fhip may anchor and run a haufer to the trees
to fteady with; in which fituation there are four and a half
and five fathoms water over a foft muddy bottom.
On the 25th we got fome water off for prefent ufe, and
the feine was hauled, but without fuccefs. Part of the
fhip’s company were fent on fhore on the 26th to gather
fhell-fith, which were the only refrefhment this place was
known to afford. The only fpace to walk in was along
the beach, the adjacent country being entirely covered with
{now. There were plenty of wild geefe and ducks about, but
fo very fhy, that we could not get within fhot of them. In
a walk I took along the beach I faw the remains of two
Indian huts, and a quantity of wood that had been cut
down with edge-tools. The cuts.in the wood were fo
large and fair, as to convince me they were made by tools
of a different kind to thefe ufed by the Indians: I there-
fore concluded that the Ruflians had vifited this place the
laft autumn, not fuppofing that the people of any other
nation had been in thefe feas.
No. Indians coming near us, I determined to leave this
bay the firft opportunity. Accordingly, at four o’clock
in the morning of the 27th, having a light breeze from
the
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the South South Weft, we-unmoored, and hove fhort,
ready for getting out of the bay, and proceeding up the
Sound. But about five the weather grew very thick, and
the wind fhifted to the North Eaft, wahiele induced, me-to
veer away, and fteady the fhip sich, the kedge.|,) During
the 28th we had light variable winds, with'calms by turnsy
but next morning at three o’clock the weather again, grew
favourable, anda breeze {pringing up at Eaft, we unmoored
fhip, weighed, and. failed out of the-bay. i was in hopes,
that after getting out, we fhould take the, food-tide, and
be» enabled to, get fairhe leagues up the, channel ; but. we
found ,the) tide very faint, and the wind direatly againit
us. -Indeed, I have reafon to think, that the food-tide
hardly ever -has any ftrength in this fituation; but the ebb
is much ftronger, owing to the great, frefhes that are al-
ways tunning out. At feven o’clock, finding we got no
ground, we bore up, and run into the bay again, and an-
chored nearly in our former fituation.
Immepiatezy after anchoring, I fet off, accompanied
by Captain Dixon in his whale-boat, in queft of Indians,
and to examine the coaft of Montague Hland up towards
the Sound. As we rowed along, we found a bold fhore,
with anchorage in thirty fathoms water, over a muddy bot-
tom, about a mile from the land. After rowing about
five leagues from the fhips, we came to a deep wide bay
where veffels may fafely ride at anchor, in from twenty to
ten fathoms water over a muddy bottom. In ten fathoms
the fituation is near the bottom of the bay, and, about
half a mile from the fhore; but the beft anchorage feems
to be neareft the South, fide, and no nearer the land than
in ten or twelve fathoms water. We landed on the North
Ee fhore,
209
CHA P,
XY
ed
1787,
April.
Friday 27.9
‘
Saturday 28,
Sunday zo.
2ro
CHAP.
X,
Ca ee!
87.
1787
Ap
ril.
Sunday 2g.
Monday 30.
M
Tuefd
ay.
ay Ie
AYN. OY AGES UOT OG 1 ik
fhore, and walked a confiderable diftance, but could not
perceive the leaft trace of any inhabitants. Whilft the
people were drefling fome pork and muffels for dinner, I
went in my whale-boat round the North point of the bay,
and could perceive the coaft of this ifland towards Prince
William’s Sound for fix or feven leagues, without any ap-
pearance of an harbour, or even a fafe bay. I returned
into the bay again, and after taking fome refrefhment, we
proceeded towards the fhips, where we arrived about nine
o’clock, without feeing any Indians during the whole day.
Having ftill light variable winds, chiefly from the North-
ward, I fent the whale-boat in the morning of the 3oth to
found from the fhip acrofs the channel, and along the
coaft of an ifland which makes the Weft fide of the Chan-
nel. The weather was very fine and pleafant, but ftill no
Indians came near us. Towards evening the boat return-
ed from founding; they had, very foon after quitting the
bay, fifty and fixty fathoms water over a muddy bottom,
and in the mid channel, no ground, with all their line,
which was feventy fathoms. Clofe over to the ifland
there were forty and fifty fathoms water within a cable’s
length of the rocks and beach; and they carried the fame
kind of foundings as far as the North extreme of the
ifland, when, the day being far advanced, they founded
no further. Short round this North point, in the direc-
tion of North Weft and Weft North Weft, the officer who
went in the boat informed me was a deep found, in which
were the appearances of good harbours. As I was de-
firous of examining every place where there was a proba-
bility of meeting with inhabitants, I fet off early the next
morning with the whale-boats, accompanied by Captain
Dixon, to look into this Sound; but, previous to our
fetting
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fetting off, I left orders with Mr. M‘Leod to move the
fhips up the channel as far as the Green Ifles, if an op-
portunity offered, and there to wait my return. By ten
o'clock we got round the North point of the ifland,
which I diftinguifhed by the name of Mulgrave Ifland,
~ and found the land take a quick turn to the Weft and
Weft North Weft. We rowed into the Sound about eight
or ten leagues, and the land to the Weftward and South-
ward of us appeared like iflands lying between us and the
fea. To the Northward alfo the land appeared detached
and in iflands, and the high land tothe North Weft was
certainly thofe mountains which from Cook’s River are
feen to the Eaft and North Eaft. During this excurfion
we faw neither inhabitants, huts, or the leaft traces of any,
although it appeared a very eligible fituation, being very
near the fea-fide, and well fheltered from the inclemency
of the weather. Towards noon we rowed into and
landed in a {mall cove where we took fome refrefhment.
Shortly afterwards, I obferved the clouds to rife from the
South Weft, and being anxious to join my fhip, and pro-
ceed up the Sound with the firft favourable wind, we fet
off towards them. After getting out of the Sound, we
found a frefh breeze from the Southward, with which we
ftretched over for Montague Iland with fails and oars, and
about eight oclock in the evening faw the fhips lying in
the bay examined by us on the 29th April, and which
was named Hanning’s Bay, after the worthy family of the
Hannings, who are ftrenuous fupporters of our prefent
voyage.
We got on board about ten o'clock, where I found
every thing in good order. My firft mate informed me,
Ee 2 that
CHAP.
1787.
May.
Tuefday 1.
212
AL WNP.OUY? ALG EO OP 'Oe AP ae
c¢ HAP. that about four hours after we left the fhip, a breeze
ee fcigie up from the South Weft, of which, agreeably to
1787.
May.
Tuefday I.
Wednef. 2.
my order, he took advantage, aa proceeded thus far,
where he anchored, in confequence of the wind’s failing,
and. the ebb tide making down. I found the fhips in a
very good fituation in the bay, riding by their bowers in
twenty-one fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and
fteadied with their kedges. The Southernmoft point of the
bay bore South South Weft half Weft three miles, the
North point North half Eaft one mile, and the bottom of
the bay. Eaft by South one mile and a half diftant. Du-
ring the night we had light variable winds, with calms by
turns; but at nine o'clock the next morning a fine little
breeze {pringing up from the Weftward, we weighed; and
ftood out: of Hanning’s Bay, and after clearing the North
point of it, ftood up ie channel towards Prince William’s
Sound. At noon I fent the whale-boat a-head, and in
fhore, to found, and the fhips runalong fhore aban one
mile and a half diftant from Montague Ifland, in forty fa-
thoms water; the whale-boat carried from thirty to thirty-
five fathoms water over a muddy bottom. The wind
growing fcant, I ordered the whale-boat a-head to tow
the fhip. Eto tuers at two o'clock a fine breeze came
on from the South South Weft; with which we >continued
running up the channel, ell had foundings from. thirty-
five to, twenty fathoms water over a muddy bottom, until
we drew near the Green Iflands, when the water fhoaled,
and we frequently had feven and cight fathoms over a
rocky and fometimes a fhelly bottom. At fix o’clock we
paffed three beds of kelp, which we avoided, as it was.
near them. we had the fhoal water, and at this time it was
dead low water. After running two or three leagues above
thefe
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
thefe fhoals on the Montague fide, there appeared feveral
{mall iflands fituated near the (hate, and fome rocks,
which are covered at high water, lying to the Northward
of them, and about two miles from the fhore, ftretching
along nearly as high as the upper end of Montague land.
However, night coming on, and there appearing a good
channel between the two Wefternmoft rocks, with a proba-
bility of finding good anchorage within them, and the
place very likely to be well eae I was induced by
thefe circumftances to pufh in. Accordingly I fent the
whale-boat a-head to found, and we carried in from fe-
venteen to twelve fathoms water, until we got fome dif-
tance within the rocks. The water then, as we approached
the fhore, began to fhoal very quick, and we came to
anchor in ten fathoms over a bottom of black fand. Pre-
fently afterwards, obferving a patch of kelp at a very
{mall diftance from the fhip, I fent a boat to found on it,
and they found only three fathoms water over a rocky bot-
tom. The fhoal was about a fhip’s length from Eaft to
Weft, and nearly the fame breadth, with nine or ten fa-
thoms water all round it. As our prefent ftation. was by.
no means a fafe one, I went in the whale-boat to found
beyond a point that lay to the Southward, round which
promifed good fhelter. Immediately on pafling the fhoal
juft mentioned, I found the water to deepen as we rowed
owards the point from ten to twenty-two fathoms over:
a muddy bottom. After finding fafe anchorage for the:
fhips, I went on board, got ele way diredly,, and run
in round the point, sa hicane we anchored in twenty-one fa-
thoms water over a muddy bottom, and moored. with the
fiream anchor to the North Eaft in. fourteen fathoms.
When moored, a {mall ifland, forming the Southernmoft part
of
213
@ He Ae
xX.
nn aed
1787.
May.
Wednef. 2.
214
Ae V-O FY AG Bo) OTE
Ca ab wae bay, bore South Weft half a mile, the Northern-
— moft point of the bay, North Weft three quarters North,
May.
Wedact 2.
Thurfday 3.
Friday 4.
three’ miles and a half, and the bottom of the bay North
Eaft by Eaft two miles diftant. ‘The Wefternmoft of the
two rocks that we pafled in between was juft to be feen
above water, and bore Weft three quarters South more than
a mile diftant, and the Eafternmoft rock was covered, it _
being then Aieut two thirds flood. It would not be pru-
dent for any fhip to run through this paflage in thick
weather; but when the weather is clear, it is tolerably
fafe with a good look-out, the lead going, and keeping
nearly in the mid channel.
Earty the next morning the carpenter was fent on
fhore to cut down fome trees for fawing into plank, and I
went myfelf up the bay to found and examine it. I
found a moft excellent port land-locked, with feven fa-
thoms water over a muddy bottom, about one cable’s
length from the neareft {hore; but to my great furprife I
could not meet with a fingle Indian, or the leaft traces of
any having been there recently, although the place feemed
very likely to be inhabited; fo that, finding my fearch fruit-
lefs, Ireturned on board. In the afternoon the long-boat
was hoifted out, and a party was employed in fitting her
for a trading expedition up the Sound.
Asout four o’clock in the morning of the 4th, the
wind blowing frefh from the North Weft, with an in-
creafing fea, which caufed the fhips to ride heavy, I came
to the refolution of running into the harbour. Accord-
ingly we unmoored and got under way; but foon after
getting within the firft point, the wind failed us, and we
3 were
hee, ! .
PaO Rie ob hy t
Moe
Nie
SKETCH of PART
of the
WEST STIDL of MONTAGU ISLAND
Variation 2017) .
oy
Nathaniel Portlock
W787
T! Gilmour
Pubilhil ax the Met directs byt Stocktate iG Gouléiny Tene 17-1789
J. Reid &.Jlaveifor
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 215
were obliged to warp in. In heaving up our ftream an- © 44
chor, the ftock broke clofe to the fhank, and as it was
an iron ftock, the anchor was rendered ufelefs. This ac-
cident was likely to prove a very unlucky one, as I had
fpared Captain Dixon an anchor in the room of one which
he loft at Atoui; fo that I now had not a fmall one to
fteady the fhip with except a kedge, which would not
hold with the leaft wind. By three o'clock, having
warped the fhip into a good ‘birth, we “anchored with
the beft bower in feven fathoms and a half ‘water over a
. muddy bottom, and: moored with a hawfer made faft to )
_~the-North-fhore’ When moored, we lay in five fathoms
at low water. The people were employed i in getting my |
)
1787.
May.
Friday 4.
‘
ne ene a oe
long-boat and the whale-boat belonging to each fhip ready
for going up the Sound on a trading expedition, under the
direction of Captain Dixon; and in the mean time I pro- |
pofed ftaying with the fhips, in order to have them hauled |
on fhore, for the purpofe of cleaning and paying their |
bottoms. We could alfo fill our water, and do many
other neceflary works, this harbour being a very.conve-.
nient one for all our various employments. |
Next morning at daylight the boats fet out on their Saturdays.
expedition, and by five o'clock were out of fight clear of z
the harbour. Our various operations now began. I fent
a large party to clear away the ftones on a part of the .
beach, where I intended to lay the fhip. At ten o’clock
we began to haul her in, and by noon {he was placed.
Some hands were employed in cutting pine branches to
bream with. The cooper was fent on fhore, with two
affiftants, to brew {pruce beer, and others were bufied in
the hold. In the afternoon the ftarboard-fide of the fhip
was
nn ee
LL A TT TT RE a ee
216
>
&
A’ VIO YA'G EVD OF “TE
HAP. was cleaned, and paid with a coat of tar, chalk, and train-
maar oil, well atid together. The theakhinhodwetins had en-
May.
Sunday 6.
Monday 7.
Shed in fome places, but not fo much as I] could have
expected.
Wuen laft at the Sandwich Iflands I bought a double
canoe, which was now fitted -up, and I fent her with two
of the people into an adjacent creek, to catch crabs and
pick mufiels; they being the only refrefhment, the de-
coction of fpruce excepted, in our power to obtain: the
feine had been hauled repeatedly, but without fuccefs.
Towards noon I had the pleafure of feeing an Indian
come into the harbour in a fingle canoe; he prefently
came along-fide, but brought nothing to barter, except a
little porpoife-blubber, which he feemed to confider as a
dainty. I made our vifiter a prefent which pleafed him
very much, and at the fame time endeavoured to make
him comprehend what kind of trade we wanted. He
feemed to underftand me, and left the fhip, well fatisfied
with his reception ; fo that I had hopes he would bring
others to us with fome trade. Great numbers of wild
geefe and ducks were flying about; but they appeared
very fhy: indeed I did not chufe to fire at them, fearing
that the report of fire-arms might prevent any Indians
from coming into the harbour.
By noon on the 7th the larboard fide of the fhip was
finifhed ; and at high water we attempted to heave her
off, but fhe did not fleet ; on which; I ordered fome falt
water, that we had under the cables in the main-hold, to
be ftarted, to lighten her againft the night-tide; being
pretty certain of her fleeting then; as I had obferved the
2 : night-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
night-tides to be confiderably higher than thofe in the day-
time. During this time the people were all bufily em-
ployed in watering and wooding; both of which being
found clofe to the beach, made it very convenient; and the
cooper brewing {pruce beer: to a puncheon of beer three
gallons and a half of molafies were added ; it was after-
wards worked with prepared yeaft, and we fucceeded in
the firft brewing, which is not generally the cafe.
Next morning at three o’clock, being high water, and
a high tide, we hove the fhip off, and laid her in her
former ftation. The Queen Charlotte took our place on
the beach; and as the tide fell they begun cleaning and
breaming: her fheathing was fomething worm-eaten, but
every thing elfe in good order. Captain Dixon was ap-
prehenfive that a part of her falfe keel was knocked off
by a fhock they received at fea, which was fuppofed to
be againft a whale; but I found all fecure.
In the forenoon of the 8th we were vifited by three of
the natives in two canoes, but they brought nothing to
fell, except two river otter-fkins and two feal-fkins, which
I bought, and made them a prefent befides ; fo that they
went away highly fatisfied. ‘Thefe Indians mentioned the
word /Vootka very frequent'y ; and every time it was re-
peated they pointed up th. Sound: they alfo mentioned
the name of Thomas Molloy. I found they were acquainted
with the ufe of fire-arms, and I rather fuppofe they have
gained that knowledge from the Ruflians. From feveral
«circumftances, I was inclined to think that our late
yifiters belonged to the party we faw in the firft har-
bour -we anchored in.
EF Earby
217
CG HAE.
On sid ia
melted moft of the fnow, and every thing feemed to pro-
mife the fpeedy approach of fummer. The furgeon, and
thofe people who had lately been ill, took a walk on fhore
on the zoth, and gathered a good quantity of water-
crefles, which they found growing near the frefh-water ri-
vulets. We caught plenty of flounders along-fide with hook
and line: thefe, with crabs, which were now very fine,
proved an excellent change from falt provifions. Some of
the people in fifhing along-fide for flounders caught feveral
cod and halibut. On this I fent the canoe on the 22d
out fome diftance into the bay to try for them, and they
foon returned with a load of fine halibut and cod.. This
fuccefs induced me to fend her out frequently with a fifh-
ing-party, and they caught confiderably more than what
was fufficient for daily confumption; fo that I ordered the
remainder to be falted for fea ftore. In the afternoon a
party of Indians vifited us, from whom I bought fome
good fea-otter fkins. ‘They pointed towards the South
Welt, and gave me to underftand that we might procure
plenty of good furs from that quarter. ‘This piece of in-
formation determined me to. fend the boats on another ex-
pedition, and in the afternoon of the 24th I difpatched
the whale-boat and yaul on a trip to the South Weft part
of the Sound with provifions for a month, and a proper
affortment of trade. All the remaining part of the fhip’s
company that could be {pared had leave given to recreate
themfelves on fhore. Some of them afcended the higheft
hills in the neighbourhood, on the fides of which they
found good quantities of {nake-root, and a variety of
flowers in full bloom. About eight o’clock in the
evening I obferved two Indian boats and feveral canoes
come into the bay: they all landed on a fandy beach,
5 which
NORTH WEST (COAST, OF, AMERICA.
239-
24
Pe,
which bore Weft South Weft from the fhip, and about © #4 ?
three miles and a half diftant..
1 737.
June.
Next morning at five o'clock our new vifiters came Monday zs:
along-fide in one of their large boats; the party confifted
of about twenty-five men, women, and children. Their
chief appeared to be a well-difpofed man, rather low in
ftature, with a long beard, and feemed about fixty years
of age: he was entirely ditbled on one fide, probably by:
2: paralytic ftroke. The old man made me a prefent of a
good fkin, but had little to fell except a few falmon, which
we bought of him. I made the chief, whofe name I un-
derftood was Taatucktellingnuke, a prefent, and one to
each of thofe who feemed to be of confequence; I alfo
diftributed fome trinkets among the women and children..
TAATUCKTELLINGNUKE gave me to underftand that the
sountry he came from was called Cheeneecock, and fitu-
ated in the South Weft part of the Sound. Our new
friends ftaid along-fide during the whole day, and went
on. fhore in the evening, perfectly well fatishied, I found
the whole of this party very friendly and well difpofed ;
and indeed moft of thofe who had: vifited us were fo;
particularly the natives belonging to Tacklaccimute, who
Tam inclined to think inhabit Comptroller’s Bay, and the
Shucklamute people, who take up their abode in the
North fide of Montague Ifland.
I Learnep from my late vifiters that the country: where
Sheenawaa and his tribe take up their refidence, is called
Taaticklagmute ; that they were the moft.powerful tribe
about
238
Cy He A> Pz
oe
ee aed
1787.
June.
Monday 25.
A'V OY A GE) VT Ooo T se
about the Sound, and hated by all their neighbours, with
whom they were continually at variance. Old Shenawaa,
fince his plundering our boats, had never appeared inthe har-
bour; but fome of his people fometimes brought us a few
fea-otter fkins, which they had obtained either by plun-
der or barter; for I underftood that his country does not
produce any of the fea-otter; but they have abundance
of river-otter. Tacklaccimute, Shucklamute, and Wal-
laamute, are the countries that afford the fea-otter. This
laft-mentioned place, from every information I have been .
able to obtain, is fituated confiderably beyond Comptrol-
ler’s Bay to the Eaftward ; and we have feen none of the
inhabitants ; but the Indians that have traded with us, fre-
quently ~brought fkins which they faid came from that
country; and I always obferved that none of thofe fkins
were marked, as is the ufual cuftom when they are in-
tended for fale, but made up into cloaks, and worn by
the people, to defend them from the inclemency of the
weather.
SHEENAWAA (whofe rapacious difpofition has alread
been noticed), whilft the Nootka wintered in Sutherland’s
Cove, fent frequent meflages, intimating that he intended
to come and cut them of. Thefe mefiages, or rather
threats, were always delivered to an Indian girl that an
officer belonging to the Nootka had purchafed on their
firft arrival in the Sound. This girl made her efcape from
the Nootka towards the latter part of the winter, and pro-
bably gave the Indians an account of her weak and de-
fencelefs fituation ; for there is hardly a doubt, from the
number of men that Sheenawaa had with him at the time
of
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
of the affair with our boats, that he then meditated an
attack on the Nootka; but very bad weather coming on
immediately afterwards, probably fruftrated his defign.
Tue party who were daily fent out to fifh for cod and
halibut had their hooks and lines often broken by large
ground-fharks ; feveral of thefe were killed, but they were
of no ufe, their livers yielding fcarcely any oil.
TAATUCKTELLINGNUKE paid me a vifit on the 26th,
and was particularly anxious to.take one or two of our
people with him on fhore to {pend the night, offering at
the fame time to leave fome of his people on board as
hoftages till their return. I complied with this fingular
requeft, and gave two of the people leave to accompany
him on fhore; he left three of his tribe on board, being de-
firous to convince me that he intended no harm.
Earty the next morning the friendly old chief came
on board in one of his boats, and brought our people
with him. After we had exchanged hoftages, I made the.
old man and his companions fome trifling prefents, and
they went on fhore highly pleafed.
I rounp that thefe Indians lodged in temporary huts,
compofed only of a few fticks and a little bark; the prin-
cipal part of their food was fifh ; by way of variety they
ate the inner rind of the pine-bark dried; but their greateft
luxury was a kind of rock-weed covered with the fpawn
of fome fifh or other, of which they gather and eat great
quantities; they alfo eat the inner rind of the angelica
and hemloc roots, which, though poifon to us, by con-
ftant
239
CH .A P,
XI,
1787.
June.
Monday 25.
Tuefday 266
Wednef. 27.
240
CLR. AMP.
XI.
|
1787.
June.
Saturday 30.
July.
Sunday 1.
Friday 6.
AN. WOATG) BO A 0).1°T/ AE
ftant and habitual ufe become to them familiar and fer-
viceable.
In hauling the feine on the 30th, we caught a large quan-
tity of herrings and fome falmon; the herrings, though
{mall, were very good, and two hogfheads of them were
falted for fea-ftore.
O.p Taatucktellingnuke took leave of me on the rft of
July, and with his tribe left the harbour and paddled to-
wards Montague Iland. .
Ar noon on the 6th the whale-boat and yaul returned
from their expedition without the leaft fuccefs, not having
feen a fingle canoe during their trip. Their route was
from our harbour towards Montague Hland, and from
thence over to the South Weft part of the Sound; having
my directions, if they found it could be done without
much rifk, to look into an opening that is fuppofed to
lead from the Sound into Cook’s River, through the river
Turnagain. On getting over on the South Weft thore,
they met with great quantities of drift-ice, coming, as
they fuppofed, out of that opening, and at the fame
time heard a conftant jumbling noife refembling the
breaking up of ice ina large river. Foggy weather now
coming on, the officer who had charge of the boats did
not think it prudent to venture in with them, but {pent
the night near that fituation, and the morning being ftill
fogey, he directed his courfe to the North, and came back
by Snug Corner Cove, without (as I have before obferved)
meeting with any Indians whatever.
BzInG
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Beinec now convinced that little or nothing could be
done by fending the boats on another expedition, and ex-
pecting the long-boat’s return in a few days, after which
I. intended to get to fea as quick as poflible; I fet all
hands to work in getting the fhip ready; a large party
were fent on fhore to cut wood, and others were em-
ployed about the rigging.
We daily caught large quantities of falmon, but the
unfettled {tate of the weather not permitting us to cure
them on board, I fent the boat{wain with a party on fhore
to build a kind of houfe to fmoke them in. On the gth
the houfe was finifhed, and the boatfwain with his party
were employed in {moking falmon; there was fufficient
room to hang fix hundred fifh up conveniently; and feven
fires being conftantly burning, they were cured very
well. In the forenoon one canoe came along-fide with
two very good frocks made of fea-otter fkins. The people
gave me to underftand that they had been to Wallaamute,
and purchafed the frocks at that place, which I had no
reafon to doubt; as I recollected feeing them about the
fhip near a month before this time, fince which they
never made their appearance until now.
Tue feine was frequently hauled on the 11th, and not
lefs than 2000 falmon were caught at each haul; the
weather, however, preventing us from curing them fo well
as could have been wifhed, we kept only a fufficient
quantity for prefent ufe, and let the reft efcape. The fal-
mon were now in fuch numbers along the fhores, that any
quantity whatever might be caught with the greateft eafe.
ha During
24%
CHAP,
XI.
ee
1787.
July.
Friday 6.
Saturday 7.
Monday 9.
Wednef. 143
>
242
CRSA P.
Dele
Neer ened
3787.
July.
Thurfday 12.
Friday 13. ,
Saturday 14.
‘Saturday 21.
ROP OY A GE TO" FT Fee
During the 12th and 13th the wind blew very ftrong and
in violent gufts from the Eaftward, with conftant heavy
rain, which prevented any work from going forward.
Towards afternoon on the 14th, the weather growiire mo
derate, the people refumed their different employments. ~
In the morning of the 21ft I went in the whale-boat
into a fmall bay about three miles from the fhip, on the
South fide of the harbour, where fome days before I dif-
covered a quantity of fine watercrefles. The weather be-
ing tolerably fine, I took the carpenter (who lately ‘had
been very ill) anda few others in the boat along with me,
that they might have a walk, and receive fome refrefhment
from the watercrefies. This little excurfion had a wonder-
fully good effect on every one. We fat down on the grafs,
and made a hearty dinner of fried pork and falmon, and,
by way of fallad, had an abundance of watercrefles'; we
likewife gathered a fufficient quantity to ferve every perfon
on board. Behind the beach where we landed is a frefh-
water lake, that empties itfelf into the bay by a {mall river
at the Northern part of the beach, in which there was
abundance of falmon. Juft above the beach, between the
bay and the lake, there ‘was a piece of wild wheat, about
two hundred yards long and five yards wide, growing at
leaft two feet high, among which we found the water-
crefles. This wheat with proper care might certainly be
made an ufeful article of food. On the edge of the lake
I faw the track of an animal which greatly refembled that
_ of the moofe-deer, We returned on board in the evening
é.
Pe,
without feeing any Indians,
5 :
AT
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Ar ten o’clock in the morning of the 22d, the long-
boat appearing in fight, I fent the whale-boat to her aflift-
ance if it fhould be neceflary ; at noon fhe came along-
fide, and I found all the crew in good health. In this
trip they had experienced a great deal of very bad weather,
and had not met with fuch good fuccefs as we expeéted;
their purchafes being about forty prime {kins and a num-
ber of inferior ones. They fell in with numbers of the
Kodiac Indians, who always behaved in the moft friendly
manner, as did all the inhabitants of the river. During
this expedition they were up about a league above Trading
Bay, on the oppofite fhore, where they found good and
fafe anchorage for fhipping, and a greater number of in-
habitants than in any other part of the river.
Havine clear pleafant weather on the 23d, the powder
avas fent to Garden Ifland to be dried and fifted, and the
cooper was employed in repairing the cafks which were defec-
tive: a party were employed in getting fire-wood on board,
and others in getting the fhip ready for fea. In the afternoon
of the 24th our wooding and watering was.completed, and
every thing from the {hore was got on board. We lopped
off all the branches off the higheft tree on Garden Ifland,
and fixed a ftaff about ten feet long at the top, with a
wooden vane on it, and near the bottom was infcribed the
fhip’s name, with the year and day of the month. Every
thing being ready for fea at fix o'clock, we urimoored and
hove fhort on the beft bower; but it being then calm, we
could not proceed out of the port. However, at two
o'clock the next morning a breeze {prung up from the
Eaftward, with which we weighed and got under fail,
and by four, being clear of the Cove, the’ boats were
hoifted in.
Ex 2
1787.
Jaly.
Sunday 22.
Monday 23
Tuefday 24.
Wednef.
2a6
aA4 A VOYAGE TO. THE
OTH AG Ps XI
Range along the Coaft of Montague Ifland.—Short Ac-
count of Prince William's Sound.—Defcription of the
Inhabitants. — Their Perfons. — Manners. — Drefs,—
Difeafes.—Ornaments.—Food.—Cookery.—Situation for
a Settlement.— Produce.—Weapons.—Hunting Imple-
ments.— Specimen of their Language.—Proceed along
the Coaft.—Anchor in Portlock’s Harbour.—Intercourfe
with the Natives. —Lang- -boat Jent on a trading Expe-
dition.—V ifited by a diftant Tribe of Indians.
CH AP. AG) quitting the harbour (which obtained the name of
Port Etches) I at farft intended to ftand out of the
Se Sound by way Me Cape Hinchinbrooke; but on opening
Wednel. 25. that paflage, the weather looked very thick and dirty to
the South Eaft; fo that I came to the refolution of pufh-
ing for the paflage on the Weft fide of Montague Ifland ;
knowing that with a Southerly wind we might get good
and fafe anchorage in that paflage ; but fhould we be taken
on the Eaftern fide of Montague Ifland, with a Southerly
or South Eaft wind, which in general brings dirty weather
with it, wé probably might be thrown into a very dan-
gerous fituation. I therefore fhaped a courfe for the
North point of Montague Ifland, with a frefh breeze at
Eaft North Eaft.. At feven o’clock we pafled two bays,
fituated on the North Eaft point of the ifland, both of
which are noticed in Mr. Edgar’s chart. In the after-
noon
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
noon we had light variable winds inclining to calm; and
at four o’clock the bay we firft anchored in on coming up
this paffage bore South half Weft, four leagues diftant.
I, was very defirous to make that bay before night came
on, as the weather began to look very unfettled ; but the
wind now {fhifted to South South Weft, which was di-
rectly againft us. At feven o’clock the wind frefhened,
and brought with it very thick rainy weather; fo that we
could fearcely fee the land, though not more than five
miles from it. Not liking the appearance of the weather,
I ftood over for a paflage between Foot Ifland and the land
to the Weftward of it. Through this paflage our long-
boat had generally failed in going to and returning from
Cook’s River; and they had named it the Prince of
Wales’s Paflage. As Mr. Hayward informed me there
was good anchorage in it, I was very defirous of getting
in before worfe weather came on; therefore, with a freth
breeze from the South South Weft, I ftood dire@ly tor
it; but on opening the paffage at eight o’clock, I found
the wind blowing dire@ly down it, and a ftrong tide fet-
ting againft us; fo that we were obliged to {pend the:
night in plying between Montague and Foot land.
We plied occafionally till noon on the 26th, when a
light breeze coming on from the Northward, we ftood
dewn the channel. At four o’clock the wind hauled round
to the South Weft; Hanning’s Bay at that time heing
under our lee, we bore up and run for it; and at feven
o'clock came to anchor in that Bay in fixteen fathoms
water, over a bottom of coarfe fand.. We weighed: an-
chor’again at eight o’clock next morning, and the wind
being light, the beats were fent a-head to tow. the fhip.
At.
245
CG H_ A.B
XI.
ee |
1787.
July.
Wednel, 25.-
Thurfday 263.
Friday 278
Saturday 28.
Sunday 29.
Monday 30.
AU’ ONXN-A-GE T O° Tare
- At noon a frefh breeze came on from the South South
Weft; which being dire&ly againft us, we ftood in again,
and at one o'clock came to anchor near our former fitua-
tion. There being no probability of our getting out to
fea that afternoon, I went on fhore, accompanied by
Mefis. Hayward, Hill, and Bryant, in the whale-boat
and yawl; and near a frefh-water creek which lies in the
Southern part of the bay, we hauled the feine, and caught
a quantity of falmon fufficient to load both the boats, and
afterwards returned on board.
Durine the 28th the wind continued to blow frefh
from the South South Weft, which kept us at anchor ;
but at feven o’clock the next morning a light breeze
{pringing up from the Northward, we weighed, and with
the boats a-head towed out of the bay. The wind pre-
fently fhifted to the Southward, which greatly retarded
our progrefs, and at fix o'clock i in the afternoon the ebb-
tide being done, we anchored in the South bay in twenty-
four fathoms water, over a bottom of muddy fand.
Ar four o’clock next morning a light breeze coming
on from the Eaftward, we weighed and got under fail.
At fix o’clock, however, the ebb being done, and the
wind hauling to the Southward, we were obliged to an-
chor in twenty-one fathoms water, over a black fandy
bottom ; the South point of the bay bearing South three
quarters Weft, two miles, and the South point ef fome
low land lying off the entrance into’the Prince of Wales’s
Paflage Weft by South, three Jeagues diftant. In this
fituation it was low-water at 6" 45", the moon 15° 14” old.
Scon aiter we arrived in the bay, three of our old ac-
quaintance
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
quaintance from Cheeneecock came along-fide in two
Canoes ; they were out on a hunting expedition, and had
three very good fea-otter fkins, which I bought, and made
them a trifling prefent..: At noon we weighed and came
to fail witha light breeze from the South South Eaft. At
four o'clock the South Weft point of Montague Ifland
bore South Eaft, two leagues diftant: being then about
two miles from fhore, we founded in fixty-three fathoms
water, over a muddy bottom. At feven o'clock, obferv-
ing that we began to lofe ground very faft, although there
was a two-knot breeze from the Weft South Weft, with
which we ftood to the South South Eaft, we prepared for
anchoring, and foon afterwards came-to in fixty-five fa-
thoms water, over a muddy bottom, with the kedge and
a haufer; the South Weft point of Montague Ifland bear-
ing Eaft three quarters South, five miles, and the North
point of Foot Ifland North by Eaft, four or five leagues
diftant. I fuppofe the flood to have made foon after fix
o'clock, and come from the South Eaft half South, at
the rate of three miles-an hour: it fet direétly towards
the entrance of the Prince of Wales’s Paflage. At nine
o'clock the tide made ftill ftronger, and though we had
our fails fet, with a gentle breeze from the Northward,
the kedge came home ; on this, we bent another haufer,
and veered it to the better end, which rode the fhip; the
tide now going at the rate of three miles and an half an
hour. The flood being done at one in the morning,
we weighed and came to fail: prefently afterwards a fine
breeze {prung up from the Weft South Weft, with which
we fteered to the Southward; and at four o’elock were
well clear of the land, the South Weft point of Montague
Ifland bearing North North Eaft half Eaft,. three leagues,
and
247
CHAP.
XII,
VJ
Yo
jul
Morsday. 30,
Tuefday 33,
17876
July.
Tuefday 31
BV OOY AGT Orie eas
- and the Wefternmoft land in fight Weft half South, fix-
teen or feventeen leagues diftant.
As we are now taking our leave of Prince William’s
Sound, though the publication of captain Cook’s and
other voyages hath obviated the neceflity of a copious de-
{cription of the natives, their manners, cuftoms, &c. and
the produce of their country, yet a few particulars may be
fele@ed from what hath hitherto come under general ob-
fervation, which may afford the reader fatisfaGtion; as
they are the refult of very clofe attention and minute re-
marks on their behaviour and general condua.
Turse peopleare for the moft part fhort in ftature, and
{quare-made men; their faces, men and women, are in
general flat and round, with high cheek-bones and flattifh
nofes; their teeth are very good and white; eyes dark,
quick of fight; their fmell very good, and which they
quicken, by fmelling at the fnake-root parched. As to
their complexions, they are generally lighter than the
Southern Indians, and fome of their women I have feen with
rofy cheeks; their hair is black and ftraight, and they are
fond of having it long: but on the death of a friend they
cut it fhort, to denote them to be in mourning; nor have
I ever obferved that they have any other way to mark their
forrow and concern for their relations. The men have ge-
nerally bad ill-fhaped legs, which I attributed to their
fitting in one conftant pofition in their canoes. They
feem poffeffed of as great a fhare of pride and vanity as
Europeans; for they often paint the face and hands, their
ears and nofes bored, and the underlip flit. In the hole in
the nofe they hang an ornament (as they deem it) made of
2 bone
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
bone or ivory two or three inches long. At the ears they
moftly wear beads hanging down to the fhoulder, and in
the flit in the lip they havea bone or ivory inftrument fitted °
with holes in it, from which they hang beads as low as the
chin. Thefe Tee in the lip disfigure them very much,
fome of them having it as large as their mouth. But
with all this fancied finery they are remarkably filthy in
their perfons, and not frequently thifting their garments,
they are generally very loufy; and in times of {carcity
thofe vermin probably ferve them as an article of food;
for I have feen them pick and eat to the number of a
dozen or more; and they are not very fmall. Their
clothing confifts wholly of the fkins of animals and birds.
I muft do them the juftice to fay, that we in general found
them very friendly; and they appear fo remarkably tender
and affectionate to their women and children, that you
cannot pleafe them more than in making them {mall pre-
fents: but earry your attention to their women no farther,
for nothing gives them greater difpleafure than taking li-
berties with them. Another very prevalent inclination
is that of thieving; which is by no means peculiar to
them, but is equally to be feen in all other Indians, not
only from ftrangers, but from one another. I have fre-
guently, in the courfe of my trading with them, feen
them fteal from one another, and on being detected, they
will give up the articles they have ftolen with a laugh, and.
immediately appear as unconcerned as if nothing had hap-
pened amifs. Fam fure that with them thieving with
. dexterity is rather thought a grace than a difgrace; and
the complete thief is a clever fellow, but the bungling
pilferer is lefs admired. You may generally know the
man who comes as a profeffed thief, for his face will be
249
Cc - 2 P.
=
87.
Joly.
Tue efday 3.
Kk all |
a WALOTY, ANGIE OT Ons We
- all daubed with paint; and whilft you may be viewing the
curious figure he cuts with his painted face, you may be
fure that his hands are not idle, if there is any thing
near him worth ftealing: and whenever you fee the arm
flipt from out the fleeve of the frock of fkins which. they
always wear, you may be well aflured that the perfon is
intent on thieving; and they always conceal the articles
they have ftolen under their frock, until they have an op-
portunity of {towing them away in their canoes; but not-
withftanding our knowing the profeffed thief, and all our
vigilance, they frequently {tole little things fect us, but
of no confequence. During our intercourfe’ with chien
they grew lefs addicted to thieving, in confequence of my
fometimes appearing a little angry with them, and taking”
fome pains to convince them of the impropriety-of their
behaviour. Upon the whole, they appear a good kind of
people, and I am Coubmced in a little time, provided a
fettlement of fufficient ftrength were eftablifhed, would be
an induftrious fet of people in hunting and procuring the
fea-otter and other fkins for fale to the fettlers. The weaker
tribes, I think, are frequently robbed and plundered by
the ftronger, and prevented from hunting, which would
not be the cafe, were there a proper fettlement eftablifhed
in fome convenient place, for that would give proteétion to
the whole of the inhabitants of this Sound : and indeed I be-
lieve from this to King George’s Sound they are by ‘no
means fo numerous as was in general fuppofed, therefore not
fo dangerous to fettlers. I think this Sound, and as far as
Comptrollers Bay, would not mufter three hundred fightin
men; and Cook’s River, ‘according to Mr. Hill’s) ob-
fervation, could not mufter much above that number; and
the whole of thefe people ftand - much in awe of fire-
I arms, _
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
25
arfis, that a few men well provided would be perfe@ly © eet ry
fecure; and were I to advife a place for wintering at and napa
forming a fettlement, it fhould be the Weft harbour of
1787.
July.
Port Etches. It hath feveral advantages over any place I tae
have feen on the coaft; one of them is, that it lies fo near
the fea, that in all probability it would be one of the laft
places that would freeze, and one of the firft in which
the ice would break up. In the next place, you would
be much fheltered by the high land lying to the Eaftward
and Northward from the bleak winds in the winter, and
you have all the Southern afpec open over the low land,
which lies to the Southward of you: which land in a little
time might be turned to-very ufeful purpofes in raifing ar-
ticles of food for the fettlers. You might fee from this
fituation the paflage from the fea, and a great part of the
Sound. The country around, after the fnow leaves it,
which is about the middle of June, is pleafant enough;
the weather is at times, long before that period, very fine
and pleafant, and at other times exceedingly boifterous,
with conftant rain, which wafhes in a fhort time great
quantities of the fnow away, foon leaves the lower -parts
clear, and you immediately perceive the vegetables coming
. forth.
Tuts country abounds in trees of the pine kind, fome
very large, a good quantity of alder, a kind of hazel, but
not larger than will do for making hand-fpikes. The
fruit bufhes are in great abundance, fuch as bilberry bufhes,
rafpberry bufhes, ftrawberries, alderberry bufhes, and cur-
rant bufhes red and black. The vegetables are water-
creffes, wild celery, four dock, fhepherds purfe, angelica,
hemloc, and wild peas. We did not fee any wild onions
Ky kwv2 in
_ 252
CH APY
XI.
——]
1787.
July.
Tueflday 31,
BUA NOATE BO Oc TAT ES
in Cook’s River. Befides the above-mentioned vegetables,
they have the wild onion; unfortunately none of our feed
that was fown on the Kittle ifland came to any thing ; I am
much afraid the greateft part of it was fpoiled from age,
being before we left England near a twelvemonth old. I
fowed fome in different parts about the country ; perhaps.
fome of it might thrive. The berries were none of them
on our failing fit for gathering, but would in a little time
be quite ripe; and I am fure any quantity of them might
be gathered for a winter’s ftock. We made ufe of the
alder buds when they were tender as greens, and when
boiled they eat very well. All hands partook of them one
day for dinner; but they had a ftrange effe@; not a perfon
on board but what was phyficked in a mnolel extraordinary
degree. On fome it aéted as an emetic as well as a purges.
it kept us going for about thirty-fix hours, when it
ftopped, leaving us all fomewhat lighter than we were..
This bout prevented me from fending the boats on a trad-
ing expedition two days longer than I intended. The
buds of the young black currant bufhes we made ufe of as:
tea, with the pine-tops mixed, which drank very pleafant..
Tue articles of food of the inhabitants are fifh and
animals of all kinds, of which they eat very heartily when:
they have it in their power; they eat the vegetables which
the country affords, and the inner bark of the pine tree,
which in the {pring of the year muft be of infinite fervice
in recovering them from the feurvy ; with which difeafe
Iam apt to think they are much affli@ed during the
winter; having feen many of them with fwollen legs and
fores, Shick I am pretty certain proceeded from that dif
eafe: as the fummer advanced we faw little of thofe ap-
pearances. They never practife the method of {moking .
their
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
their provifions, and, for want of falt, have no other way
of curing their winter ftock of fifth than drying it in the
fun; their frefh fifth they generally roaft, by running fome _ J
flicks through to fpread it, and clapping it up before the
fire. Their animal food they generally drefs in bafkets or
wooden veffels, by putting to it red hot ftones until the
victuals are drefled enough ; and it is furprifing how quick
they drefs their provifions in this way..
Durinc the fummer feafon they lead a ftrange wander=
ing life, and the fhelter they live under in bad weather,
when from home, is either their canoes or {mall fheds,.
made of a few fticks covered with a little bark ; their
winter habitations are alfo very ill made and inconvenient ;.
thofe I have feen are not more tham from four to fix feet
high, about ten feet long, and about eight feet broad, built
with thick plank, and the crevices filled up with dry. mofs ;
and in thofe houfes they generally ftow very thick.. The
method they ufe in making plank is, to fplit the trees with.
wooden or ftone wedges ; and I have feen.a. plank twenty.
or twenty-five feet long, fplit froma tree by their method.
Terr weapons for war are {pears of fixteen or eighteen
feet long, headed with iron; bows and arrows, and long.
Knives ;, all of which they are amazingly dexterous in
ufing. Their fifhing implements are wooden hooks, with
lines made of a {mall kind of rockweed, which grows to.a.
eonfiderable length, and will hold a good ftrain, if kept
elear of hinks, and properly moiftened. With thefe hooks
and lines they catch halibut and cod; falmon they catch.
in wiers, or fpear them; and herring I believe they catch
with {mall nets: the implements with. which they kill.
. ; 9 the:
353
CHAP,
XII.
Raia ee
uly.
Tuelday 31+
Abagack < @ ditto
AUC WOYACG ETT O} TE
the fea-otter and other amphibious animals are harpoons
made with bone, with two or more barbs; with a flaff of
about fix or-eight feet long, on which is faftened a fkin
or large bladder well blown, as a buoy; and darts of about
three or four feet long, which they throw with a wooden
inftrument.of about a foot long.
I oMITTED in its proper place to mention, that at the
South part of the little bay where we found the water-
erefles, we faw a tree with an in{fcription on it; the cha-
racters, fome were of opinion, were Greek; but for my
own part I could not make out what moft of them were;
they were badly cut. It appeared to me as if the infcrip-
tion had been made in the latter part of the laft year,
and Iam of opinion by a man who fome time after the
Nootka’s arrival left her; this man is a native of one of
the iflands in the Mediterranean; and it fhould feem was
drove from the Nootka by bad ufage, and I believe is full
among the Indians.
In regard to the dialect of thefe people, it may be pro-
per to introduce a few f{pecimens, though it appeared to
be fuch a confufed, unintelligible jargon, that it was not
without fome difficulty that we could colle& thefe in-
{tances :
Nootuch * a principal chief's name of Tack-lacumute, a friendly
tribe avout Comptrollers Bay, the beft traders
ea about the Sound, and bring moft fea-otter fRins. _
‘Cocha =
- a chief of ditto.
a ditto of Montague Ifand, called by the natives
Shuklake; a friendly tribe. This chief changed
names with me. ,
Nefqueluck = a ditto ditto ditto.~ .
ditto ditto.
Nus-cook-weelick
Sha-newten
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 255
Sha-newten = to fleep. C-.H) A. Pp.
Waallamute - a country to the E. N. E. of Port Etches. Mie
Ifhkaa - - to get up after fleeping. y ra
Kaa-naa - to take. Joly.
Taa-koo - to bring. Tuefday 31,
Nelltoolee - @ toe or iron.
Yaa-mack - beads.
Congaanack - a marmot’s /kin.
Onaakaa - Snow.
Pha-nee-cook = a tribe to the South Weft part of Prince William's
Sound ; a friendly tribe.
Cau-nuck - Jire.
Muck - - water.
Taa-tuck-tell-ingnuke chief of Cha-nee-cock, a country to the South Weft of
Prince Wiiliam’s Sound; a friendly tribe; not
many fRins.
She-ne-waa . chief of Taa tick-lag-mute, a country to the Weft North
Weft from Port Etches; a very troublefome tribe ;
abundance of river-otter, but few fea-otter frins.
Gau-luck - hore.
Naa-taakie - Jinow, according to Shee-na-waa’s tribes
Naa-go-wack-tooke wood,
Cus-kuck, er Nus-kuck chief.
Coo-lin - ten.
Naa-nuck - twenty.
Auckluck - wind.
Maajack - Jun.
Ingite - = ground on foore.
Caapuckaa - river otter.
Taakenooke - let me look at it.
Seeme_ - : rain.
Chilha - a@ child. ~
Ugaanuck - a woman.
Yaagala - good, or handfome.
Naatunafuck - Jea-otter.
Naatunamoughtaa young fea-otter.
Luckluck - a bear.
Yauna - yonder. —
Yautka - gone away.
Chetleugh > no 0.
Peeduck - all gone, I have no more.
Peeduck Naatunafuck J have no more fea-otter fkins.
Lawle - - friendfhip. At the fame time they extend their.arms,
and repeat the word Lawle frequently; and to
Signify that you ave a friend, you muft do the
Same.
AFTER
256
CHAP.
XII.
uo.
17387.
July.
Tuefday 31.
Auguit.
Friday 3.
Saturday 4.
Sunday ¢.
Monday 6.
Allo VA CEOT GO OTHE
- Arter getting well clear of the paflage into Prince
William’s Sound, we fteered Eaft South Eaft, with a light
breeze from the Weftward and pleafant weather; but the
wind afterwards hauling to the Southward, we fteered to
the Eaft by North.
Tue 3d Auguft being remarkably fine, the failors ham-
mocks were got upon deck ; the fhip was fcraped fore and
aft, and fprinkled with vinegar, and well aired with
fires.
Tue mean refult of feveral obferved diftances of the
fun and moon taken on the 4th gave 138° 20’ longitude;
The latitude at that time was 57° 12’ North. At three
o’clock we faw. the land, bearing North by Weft, and
more than twenty leagues diftant, which we took for-
Mount Fairweather. ‘The wind now fhifted to the Eaft-
ward, and continued fome time from that quarter, which
prevented us from making any great progrefs towards Cape
Edgecombe. However, as we could fetch fomething to
the Eaftward and Southward of Mount Fairweather, I de-
termined to try for a port near the fituation in-which cap-
tain Cook places Crofs Sound, although.we were not for-
tunate enough to fall in with that place laft feafon. At
four o'clock in the afternoon of the sth Mount Fair-
weather bore North 10° Weft, near twenty leagues diftant,
This mountain, or rather ridge of mountains, as it forms
into feveral, is by far the higheft land on this part of the
coatt; meh loftier than Mount Edgecombe; and I think
healy the height of Mount St. Elias. At fix o’clock the
appearance of an opening prefented itfelf, bearing North
z0° Eaft; and having then a light breeze far North Weft
by Welt, we ftood in for it. Next morning at four
| o'clock
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERIGA.
o'clock Mount Fairweather bore North Weft by Weft,
twelve leagues diftant. What was taken for a wide open-
ing in the land on the preceding evening now appeared
to be joined by low land, as we could from the maft-
head fee the low land extending from fide to fide, and no
good appearance of an harbour. Indeed, our diftance
from the land was fo great, that we could not determine
this point with certainty ;- but as the wind was now rather
{cant for proceeding in towards the place where we had
fuppofed the opening to be, and a fine wind for run-
ning towards Cape Edgecombe, I defifted from ftand-
_ ing any further in the North North Eaft dire@ion, and
edged away to the Eaft North Eaft, with an in-
tention of getting pretty well in fhore, in order to look
for a harbour, as we ftood towards the Cape. At ten
o'clock we faw an opening in the land bearing North Eaft,
which promifed well for a good harbour. On running in
for it, another good appearance of an harbour prefented
itfelf, bearing North by Eaft, and feems to be fituated
about eight leagues to the South Eaft of Grofs Cape.
Aut the land next the fea, beginning about eight leagues
to the South Eaft of Crofs Cape, and trending to within
ten leagues of Cape Edgecombe, feems to be compofed of
low woody iflands, among which there appear feveral
places of good fhelter. The inland country forms into a
number of peaked hills, fome well wooded, and others
quite bare. On drawing near the opening, and about two
miles from the fhore to the North Weft of it, we had
twenty and twenty-five fathoms water over a muddy bot-
tom, and juft in the entrance were fome high barren
Auguft.
Monday 6.
rocks.. A large Indian boat came out, probably to view -
the fhip: there were twelve people in her, and only three
L | o
258
AicV O01 A Gye) P10) oy Be
¢ HA P. of them men, the reft women and children. On getting
XII.
= mito the entrance of the paflage, which is about a mile
1787-
Auguft.
Monday 6.
acrofs, we deepened the water to thirty fathoms over a
fandy bottom, the barren rocks juft mentioned forming
the South fide; the Northern fade is low land, forming
itfelf into feveral {mall bays, from whofe points are
breakers at no great diftance. About half a mile within
the barren rocks we had thirty fathoms water over a rocky
bottom, which depth and bottom we carried at leaft a mile
farther, fteermg North Eaft by Eaft, which is nearly the
courfe intothe harbour. The paflage fo far 1s nearly a mile
acro{s, with bold rocky fhores. on each fide. Prefently after-
wards we fhoaled the water to ten fathoms, being then in
the narroweft part of the channel, which in that fituation is
not more than half a mile acrofs, formed on the Northern
fide by fome bold rocks, and to the Southward by a bluff
point of land; to the Eaftward of which, a fmall dif
tance from the fhore, are fome rocks that juft thew them-
felves above water. Immediately on pafling thefe rocks:
we deepened the water very quick, having from thirty to.
forty fathoms; and a moft f{pacious and excellent harbour
opened itfelf to our view, trending to the North Weft and
South Eaft, and running deep into the Northward, with a
number of fmall iflands fcattered about. We run up to-
wards the North Weft part of the harbour, and after
pafling a {mall ifland near the North fhore covered with
trees, we anchored about noon with the {mall bower in
thirty-one fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and
moored with the beft bower to the Eaftward, entirely
land-locked; the rocks lying in the inner part of the
paflage, jut fhut in with the {mall ifland already men-
tioned, and bearing South three or four miles diftant.
6 SOON
SKETCH
a ye
PORTLOCKS & GOULDINGS HARBOURS,
——«_ 9 9) ) cn the e @) Oa =e
NORTH WEST COAST or AMERICA.
* re | e eG
oe Vie B35, 00. (le
eS
PORTVYOCKS HARBOUR .2f
aactts
atta
Al
20
rf aie
25
30
ZAM? seutpt Piblifuit Tune 17.1789 ly EStockdale & 6. Goulding.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Soon after we were moored, the Indian boat, which
had followed us in; came along- Gide, and the people gave
us a fong in the.ufual Indian manner. I found their lan-
guage totally different from that {poken by the natives in
Prince William’s Sound; but they extended their arms as
a token of peace, nearly the fame as thofe people. Their
boat was the body of -a large pine tree, neatly excavated,
and tapered away towards the ends, until they came to a
point, and the fore-part fomewhat higher than the after-
part; indeed, the whole was finifhed in a neat and very
exact manner. I made my new viliters a few trifling pre-
fents, and inquired for the fea-otter fkin, by the name it
bears at Prince William’s Sound; but they not underftand-
ing me, I fhewed them a fea-otter fkin, and made figns
for them to bring me fome, which they feemed inclined
to do. They were ornamented with beads of various
forts, and had fome other articles, which induced me to
think that the Queen Charlotte had touched near this
neighbourhood on her way to King George’s Sound, par-
ticularly a tin kettle and fome towes, exactly the fame
fort as ours. They made me underftand by figns, that the
vefiel from which they procured thofe articles had been in
a port to the Eaftward of Cape Edgecombe, and defcribed
her as having two mafts. This little information led me to
think that poflibly the Queen Charlotte might ftill be fome-
where about the Cape; and as I before had formed an in-
tention of fending the long-boat on a trading expedition,
I determined to fit her cut with all poffible difpatch, and
accordingly I ordered a proper affortment of trade to be
got ready, and fix weeks provifions of ‘all kinds that the
fhip aitorded. ‘The Indians, after receiving a few pre-
Erle fents,
259
Cc 7 rie P3
ree
1787.
Auguft.
Monday 6.
260
CH, Ai?
peck 6.
ASW O, YOAS EF O4 Te
fents, left the fhip and went on fhore, where they re-
mained a fhort time, and then returned with a few good
dry fea-otter fkins. I took notice that thefe Indians were
not fo particular in drefling or f{tretching their fkins as the
inhabitants of Prince Wihamrs Scud and @eskit River;
neither were any of them marked with paint, as if in-
tended for a market, which is the general practice in the
Sound and River. I fhewed a man in the boat, who ap-
peared to be the chief, a marked fkin, and he imme-
diately knew (probably by the mark) what country it
came from, and ‘defcribed the inhabitants as having their
under lips flit, and wearing ornaments in them. He alfo
defcribed their canoes, with their method of paddling;
and on being fhewn a model of the Prince William’s
Sound canoes, he gave me to underftand that it was the
fame fort with thofe he had been defcribing. I learned
that they had an intercourfe with the natives of Prince
William’s Sound; in the courfe of which, quarrels often
arofe, and battles frequently enfued; and one of the men
fhewed me a deep wound near his lip, which he received
in an engagement with them. That thefe people have
communication with each other, is pretty certain; and I
am apt to think that this part of the coaft, and farther
on to the North Weft, is the country which the inhabit-
ants of the Sound call Wallamute; as I faw two dag-
gers in the pofleflion of two men belonging to old Sheena-
waa’s tribe, which were made exactly in the fame manner
as thofe worn by the natives.at this place, and they gave
me to underftand that they had bought them at Walla-
mute. The daggers which the people hereabouts ufe in
battle are made to ftab with either end, having three,
four,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
four, or five inches above the hand tapered to a fharp
point; but the upper part of thofe ufed in the Sound and
River is excurvated.
Towarps evening our vifiters prepared to go on fhore;
but, by way of fecuring my friendfhip, were defirous to
leave one of their party on board for the night, and take
one of our people with them on fhore. As they feemed
to betray neither a mifchievous nor thieving difpofition, I
had no objection to the propofal, particularly as I thought
the perfon who went might have an opportunity of ob-
ferving what number of fea-otter fkins they poflefled, and
might alfo form fome idea of their manner of living. Ac-
cordingly, I permitted one of my people to go on fhore,
and that I might be under no apprehenfion about his.
fafety, two.of the Indians (inftead of one, as was firft pro-
pofed) remained on board, and behaved. remarkably well =
they were both young, very well made, good-looking
men, and appeared to be brothers. The other man, who
appeared to be the chief of this fmall tribe, went away
with my man and the reft of his tribe at feven o'clock.
I obferved they went to the Northward, and turned round
a point of land, beyond. which moft probably their ha-
bitation was fituated.
Azout eight o’clock next morning, the Indians returned
with our man, but they brought very little trade. The
perfon who went on fhore with the Indians informed me,
that their refidence was at the foot of a hill near a run of
frefh water, which iffued out of an adjacent valley. Their
houfe (for they had only one) appeared tobe only a temporary
habitation, and he could obferve very few articles of trade:
among.
26r
@ HA; P;
AH.
Ne meme
1737.
Auguf.
Monday 6.
Tuefday 75
262
€: HAP:
XII.
—— 4
1787.
Augutt.
Tuefday 7.
Wednef. 8.
A INO YAIG-EO TDi TW HSE
among them. The way to this Indian hut ae to the
North Eaft through a little found, full of {mall iflands
covered with wood.
Ar daylight the long-boat was hoifted out, and fome
hands were employed in fitting her for an expedition to
the Eaftward. ‘The feine was hauled in feveral parts of
the harbour ; but we did not meet with any fuccefs.
Tue long-boat being properly equipped, at five o'clock
fhe fet out on a trading expedition towards Cape Edge-
combe, and among ape iflands to the South Eaft of that
Cape, with the fame officers and men that went in her to
Cook’s River. I gave them particular orders to return in
feventeen days; and in cafe they fell in with the Queen
Charlotte, to defire captain Dixon to fail with them to-
wards our prefent harbour, and remain in the offing until
I fhould join him; as I propofed leaving the coaft towards
the latter enesob the month, and proceeding for China,
tales vodi (neces: iartiadei warranted my ftaying on the
coaft to a later period.
Tue adjacent country abounding with white cedar, I
fent the carpenter on {hore with a party on the 8th, to
cut fome for fawing into fheathing-boards: the remainder
of the fhip’s company were bufied in various neceffar
employments. In the courfe of the day we had a fmall
canoe along-fide, with one man and a woman; but they
brought nothing to difpofe of; and probably were out on
a_hunting party, as they had all the implements for that
purpole: however, after flaying a fhort time with us,
they returned towards the Eaftern point of the Sound,
fron.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
from whence they came, in order to give their tribe intel-
ligence of our being in the harbour. Towards evening
our firft vifiters came along-fide, and the two young men
again requefted to fleep on board, which I permitted, and
Jofeph Woodcock, one of my apprentices, flept on fhore
with their party. When the Indians left us, they did not
go to their habitations round the North point, as on the
preceding evening, but took up their abode in a {mall bay
near the fhip, where they ereéted a miferable hut, infuf-
ficient to keep out either wet or cold.
Nor having any fuccefs in hauling the feine near the
fhip, I fent the whale-boat with the feine round a point
to the North Eaft; round that point they proceeded up
an arm of the Sound, which took a direGtion about North
and North by Eaft, for four or five miles: this arm has
two or three {mall woody iflands lying at the entrance,.
and is navigable for a fhip of any fize, almoft the whole
way up; at the head of it they founda {mall frefh-water
rivulet, where they caught a few good falmon and a great
number of very indifferent ones, moft of which were fuf-
fered to efcape. The indifferent falmon appear to be a
different kind from the others, and I am inclined to think
were out of feafon. They had a moft difagreeable colour,
to appearance as if in a flate of putrefa@tion; and the upper
jaw hada number of large teeth projecting almoft right out
of it. Since our arrival I had frequently feen in the frefh--
water creeks (in which places thefe kind of falmon get a
confiderable height) many of them dying, and great num-
bers on the banks quite dead; indeed there is reafon: ta
fuppofe that few of them furvive the approach of winter,
but the other fort keep in deep water, and about the
mouths.
263.
c ee AP
Wednef. 8.
264.
A W.0 NOATC EO T De TATE
cH i P+ mouths of the creeks. Thofe caught by our people were
Rint LO
1787.
Augult,
Wednef. 8.
fine large fifh, of a very good colour, and without the
teeth, or Pee tufks, in the appr jaw, which fo parti-
dularly diftinguifh the inferior fort
. Tus {mall canoe which vifited us in the morning from
the Eaftward returned again at eight o'clock, in company
with two large boats, containing about twenty-five men,
women, and children. ‘They entertained us near an hour
with finging, and afterwards took their leave and went on
fhore to the little bay juft mentioned, where fome of
them erected temporary huts to lodge in, but others con-
tented themfelves with fuch kind of fhelter as fome rocks
which hung over the beach afforded. On leaving the fhip
they gave me to underftand that they had fome excellent
fkins to difpofe of, and would bring them in the morning:
accordingly, foon after daylight the Indians again came
along-fide, bringing five very good fea-otter fkins (which
were all they had of the kind) and a number of beautiful
black fkins, fuch as I had never feen before; but am apt
to think they were a {pecies of feal.
Tuts tribe (as well as our former vifiters) traded very
fairly; and as they did not feem to be of a thieving difpo-
fition, I admitted a number of them on board. When
dinner was brought into the cabin, my guefts required
_ very little invitation to partake, but began to eat very
heartily ; and fo well did they relifh our victuals, that the
table was prefently cleared, and there was occafion for
another courfe, which was Ghent in, and they fell to
with as keen an appetite as at firft, till at length, being
fairly fatiated, they gave over, though with fome reluc-
Io tance.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tance. After looking at various parts of the fhip, and re-
ceiving fome little prefents, they returned to the fhore
well fatisfied with their entertainment.
In the forenoon we got feveral fine logs of cedar on
board, and two of the people were fet to work in fawing
them into fheathing-boards. The cooper was fent on
fhore to brew fpruce-beer and effence of fpruce for fea-
{tore ; there being an abundant quantity of excellent pine
for that purpofe not far from the fhip: others of the fhip’s
company were employed in wooding and watering, and I
fent two of the boys with the canoe into the pafiage to try
for fifh; but they returned without meeting with any
fuccefs.
Asout one o'clock an Indian boat came into the
Sound with two men, a boy about twelve years old, and
a young child in her; one of the men was a remarkably
fine looking fellow, and appeared to be a perfon of great
confequence. ‘This {mall party came from the Nort
Weftward, and I am inclined to think their ufual place of
refidence is near the fpot where I have before mentioned
there is a probability of finding a good harbour between this
Sound and Crofs Cape: they came through a paflage that
leads into another Sound to the North Weft of that we lay
in, and which paflage makes the land to the Weftward of
us an ifland.
I soucut from our'new vifiters a few very good fea-
otter fkins, and a number of wild geefe.. The method
they make ufe of in catching thofe birds is to chafe and
knock them down immediately after they have fhed their
Mm large
Thurfday 9.°
266
A WMOCY ATG IR TO) F HE
CHAP. Jaroe wing-feathers; at which time they are not able
c— fo fly.
Turse Indians had a number of beads about them of
quite a different fort to any I ever faw; they had alfo a
carpenter’s adze made in a different manner to ours, with
the letter B and three fleurs-de-lis on it. The chief in-
formed me that he received thefe articles from two veffels
which had been with them to the North Weft, and de-
{cribed them as having three mafts: he gave me to un-
derftand that they had a drum on board, and a number of
great guns. Thefe circumftances inclined me to think
that the veffels defcribed by this chief were the French
men of war that were fitting out for difcovery at the time
we left England.
Besipes thefe fhips juft mentioned, I was informed
by fome of the Indians, that another veffel had vifited
the coaft a little way to the North Weft of our fituation,
and from their defcription, I fhould rather fuppofe her to
have been the Queen Charlotte than any other veffel; as
they defcribed her having only two mafts, and her boat
like our whale-boat. ‘They alfo made me underftand very
clearly, that an unfortunate accident happened to one of
her boats, which was fifhing at an anchor in the mouth of
the port where fhe lay: whilft fifhing, the wind came in
frefh from the fea, which caufed a good deal of fea to fet
in, and when endeavouring to weigh their anchor, the
cable flipped on the broad-fide of the boat, which overfet
her ; and before any afliftance could be given them from
the {hip five men were drowned. The boat to which this
misfortune happened they gave me to underftand was
exactly
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 267
exactly the model of our whale-boat; and I was afraid © %,* ?
that an accident of the kind might poflibly have happened ——-~
to the Queen Charlotte’s boat. ea
urfday ge
Arrer this fmall party had finifhed trading, the chief
requefted leave to ftay all night on board with the elder
boy, which I granted, and fent Jofeph Woodcock on {hore
with the other man and child.
Tue chief from the North Weft, with his little party,
took leave of me the next morning, and proceeded to- friday 10,
wards home ; telling me at the fame time that he would
return in ten days with more fea-otter kins.
Min 2
Saturday 11.
i” |
A WV, OW A Gt) TVG. SWE
GE AS PS: ST:
A new Party of Traders from the Eaf?.—Under a Ne-
ceffity of exchanging Hoftages.— Part of the Ship’s Com-
pany go on Shore.—Meet with Indian Tea.—Vifit the
Natives at their own Refidence.—Their Habitations and
Manner of Living defcribed.An Account of the Spa-
niards having been on the Coaft, and left the Small-pox.
—The Long-boat returns from an Expedition to the Eaft-
Wward.- Sound.— Another Vifit from our
North Weft Friends.—Ceremonies to be obferved before
commencing Trade.— fofeph Woodcock fent as an Hoftage
—Three Days in the Country.—An Account of the Na-
tives—Their thieving Difpofition—LNaftine/s, Ornaments,.
Drefs, and Language.—Obfervations on the Advan-
tages likely to accrue from a Settlement on the Coaft.—
Some Thoughts of an Expedition by Land.— Leave Port-
lock’s Harbour.
N the morning of the 11th two large boats came into:
the Sound from the Eaftward. ‘This tribe were entire
iano to us, and confifted of twenty-five men, women,
and children, from whom I bought a few very good fea-
otter fkins, a cloak made of the fmall black fkins I have
before taken notice of, and feveral fkins of the fame fort.
This new party of traders did not affociate with the other
Indians; but after their bufinefs was over, and their cu-
riofity gratificd by looking at the fhip, they went on
IO fhore
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
269
fhore in. a bay not far from the fhip, where the cooper © #4
was employed in brewing fpruce-beer, and took up their
lodging in a good convenient houfe, which he and his af-
fiftants had built to fhelter themfelves from the rain, and
~ which was well covered with cedar bark. The feine was
hauled in the afternoon, and we caught a good fupply of
excellent falmon.
_ Some of our old acquaintance came on board in the
evening to fleep with us, and I fent a perfon on fhore by:
way of hoftage as ufual. Indeed I found it -abfolutely
neceflary to conform to their cuftom in this particular;
for more than once, when I had refufed to exchange
hoftages with them, in confequence of the appearance of
bad weather, they were immediately alarmed, and would:
not come near the {hip on any account whatever ; but on
my permitting a perfon to go along with them on fhore,
they would receive him on entering their boat with a ge-
neral fhout of exultation, and feed perfectly convinced
that no harm was intended them. On thefe occafions,
inftead of one Indian ftaying on board in exchange for the
perfon I fent on fhore, more than half a dozen would offer
themfelves as volunteers, and I fometimes permitted three
er four of them to fleep with us. The two young men
who firft vifited us were generally of the party; and indeed
one of them was almoft conftantly on board.
Le ed
1787.
Augutt.
Saturday 11,
On the rath I gave part of the fhip’s company leave Sunday :2.
to recreate themfelves on fhore; as a walk I knew would
be highly ferviceable to them; and the adjacent country
was pleafant and agreeable, and afforded great quantities
of blackberries and wild rafpberries, quite ripe, and ex-
ceedingly
go * A VO a fang TD sQnne Bs
CHAP, bie
xu, ceedingly good. This party,
eae fell in with a large fpot of 1
Augut. ata {mall diftance behind th ‘bre
Sanday 12.
was a timely one; for by this: a
other tea was expended, and our ne Ay
a moft excellent fubftitute. %
not more than twelve inches. ae va
me under-part covered 2 chi la light downy ‘eaitanges “tng (A
PG wit ’ Z
In the forenoon I went in’ y théswhale-boat,. accompat Ya
by Mr. Wilbye and one of the young Indians, ae
their refidence; he undertaking to direa the way
rowed to the North Weft for about two miles, and.
came to what had the appearance ofa point of land
the fhip, but we found it to be an ifland, fituated at
entrance of an arm of. the Sound, which trends. al
that their olde of ahodeen was up “heat arm, therefore
proceeded on, and found it to run ina zigzag dire
between North and North Eaft, about five miles tot
head of it from the ifland in ‘the. entrance, and near fey
miles from the fhip. This arm appears to be navigab
for at leaft four miles up, for veflels of any fize, and
are a numa of fmall iflands covered vue trees {c
noon, al found
es
ne ruins of two othets '
Mae
Mia
WMN.
Wy
GUN
Ny MT p»
0),
bs verry Wy bli hy
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. iS a
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J
Via)
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o
bey:
' LOR
rman
UY
TN
HAN
Mini:
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
was a large boat, and three of a fmaller fize; the large
boat capable of holding thirty perfons, and the others
about ten people each. From this circumftance I ex-
pected to have feen a numerous tribe, and was quite fur-
prifed when I found that it confifted only of three men,
three women, the fame number of girls, two boys about
twelve years old, and two infants. One of the women
was very old, I fhould think not lefs than eighty. I ob-
ferved the oldeft of the men to be very much marked with
the fmall-pox, as was a girl who appeared to be about
fourteen years old. The old man endeavoured to defcribe
the exceflive torments he endured whilft he was afflicted
with the diforder that had marked his face, and gave me
to underftand that it happened fome years ago. This
convinced me that they had had the fmall-pox among
them at fome diftant pericd. He told me that the dif-
temper carried off great numbers of the inhabitants, and
that he himfelf had loft ten children by it; he had ten
ftrokes tatooed on one of his arms, which I underftood
were marks for the number of children he had loft. I
did not obferve any of the children under ten or twelve
years of age that were marked; therefore I have great
reafon to fuppofe that the diforder raged a little more than
that number of years ago; and as the Spaniards were on
this part of the coaft in 1775, it is very probable that
from them thefe poor wretches caught this fatal infection.
They, it fhould feem, are a nation defigned by Providence
to be a {courge to every tribe of Indians they come near,
by one means or other.
271
C HevAY Ps
XII.
paeh ie
1787.
Augutt.
Sunday IZ.
Tue Spaniards were among them in the height of ©
fummer, and probably they caught the infe@tion about the
month
272
CHAP.
XII.
Se
1787.
Augult.
Sunday 12.
AL IVO MOAI EO OF AT AE
month of Anguft. To fee their manner of living at that
feafon of the year, one would think it a miracle that any
-of them efcaped with their lives. I found men, women,
and children, all huddled together in a clofe houfe near
a large fire, and entirely furrounded with ftinking fith.
Round the houfe.for at leaft one hundred yards, and all
along the banks of a little creek that ran down by this
miferable dwelling, were flrewed ftinking fifh; and in
feveral places were beds of maggots a foot deep, and ten
or twelve feet in circumference: nay, the place had
really fuch a dreadfully offenfive {mell, that the young
Indian himfelf, though habituated to fuch wretched fcenes
from his earlieft infancy, having remained on board with
us a few days, could not bear it, but intreated me very
earneftly to leave the place, which I did, and returned to .
the boat, accompanied by him and the reft of our.party.
Poflibly the {mall-pox only raged during the warm wea-
ther, and the infection was deftroyed by the fetting in of
a fevere winter; but the fufferings of the poor Indians,
when the diforder was at its height, muft have been in-
conceivable, and no doubt the country was nearly depo-
pulated; for to this day it remains very thinly inha-
bited.
A number of the Indians who vifited’ us from the Eaft-
ward were marked with the fmall-pox, and one man who
had loft an eye gave me to underftand that he loft it by
that diforder; but none of the natives from the Weftward
had the leaft traces of it. I cannot account for this cir-
cumftance any other way than by fuppofing that the vefiel
from which thefe unfortunate people caught the infection,
was in a harbour fomewhere about Cape Edgecombe; and
perhaps
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
erhaps none of the natives further to the Weftward than
this Sound had an opportunity of having any intercourfe
with her, and by that means happily efcaped the diforder.
After I left this miferable habitation, the feine was hauled,
and we caught a good fupply of fine falmon. In the
evening, our late vifiter from the Northward returned
and flept on board, together with the reft of his party,
and we. hauled his boat up along-fide. He informed me
that the weather was fo bad that he could not poffibly get
home; however, he fet off again at day-light the next
morning to make another trial. In the forenoon part of
the fhip’s company had leave given them to go on fhore, and
though rainy weather came on, yet they were fo intent
on picking Indian tea, and berries of various kinds, that
few of them returned on board before the approach of
evening. In the courfe of the day, our neighbours in the
Sound brought us a few fea-otter fkins, and fome others
of various kinds; and a few of the natives that had been
out on a hunting party returned with three very fine fea-
otter fkins juft taken from the animal.
On the 14th part of the fhip’s company were em-
ployed in wooding and watering, others hauled the feine,
and caught a fupply of good falmon, and the fawyers were
bufied in fawing cedar into fheathing-boards.
At nine o'clock in the morning of the rsth the long-
boat returned from her expedition to the Eaftward; the
had been juft to the Eaftward of Cape Edgecombe, whcte
they met with fome inhabitants, and purchafed about
twenty pretty good fea-otter fkins. Between the harbour
we lay in and the Cape, they fell in with a ftrait about a
n league
273
©. EAP.
XII.
Nn el
1787.
Auguft.
unday 12.
Monday 13
Tuefday rav-
Wedref. 15,
3274
C, H A, 2.
XI,
5 ee amma
1787.
Auguft,
Wednef, 15.
A VOYAGE TO THE
league wide at the entrance, and running in about Eaft,
or Eaft South Eaft, with bold fhores and good anchorage.
Soon after getting in (the Southern and Eaftern point of
the ftrait in 57° 30° latitude, and the Northern and Weftern
point in 57° 36 latitude), they ftood up between South and
South by Eaft, near four leagues, the ftrait for that dif-
tance appearing near three leagues acrofs, with feveral
fmall iflands {cattered about.it. From the Southern point
there were feveral appearances of fine openings branching
out in various directions; however, they did not examine
any of them, but kept along under the Southern fhore, as
the moft likely place for leading out near Cape Edge-
combe. After getting up this paflage about four leagues,
they found it not more than half a league acrofs, with
good anchorage all the way up; and after carrying that
width two leagues higher, it became very narrow and
fhoal, one part in particular fo fhoal, that it became dry
at low-water for near two miles. In this narrow part they
ftruck a rock, which fhivered one of the planks in the
Joof of the bow, and caufed the boat to make a good deal
of water. This accident might have been attended with»
ferious confequences; however, they hauled the boat on
fhore, and nailed a piece of fheet-lead over the damaged
part, which effectually ftopped the leak. After paffing
the narrow part, which they did by taking a proper time
of tide, they found the paflage to grow wider (full trend-
ing away to the North Eaft); the depth of water increafed
gradually, and nearly as falt as fea-water. This circum-
fkance gave them great hopes that the paflage they were in
had a communication with the fea to the South Eaft, and
confequently that they fhould get to the South Eaftward of
the Cape, by a very fafe and eafy navigation. In this
8 opinion
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
opinion they were foon confirmed by coming into a large
Sound, where they faw a great number of whales. They
alfo had a fight cf Mount Edgecombe, and fome iflands
lying to the South Eaft of Cape Edgecombe. In the
courfe of their cruife thus far they had landed feveral
times in a fine level pleafant country, where they could
perceive the traces of inhabitants having been there re-
cently, but what is rather extraordinary, they faw neither
huts nor Indians.
On getting round the North point of this paflage,
through which they had come thus far, they faw an opening
that appeared to run about a league up in a North direc-
tion, and then branched out various ways. In the en-
trance of the main opening were feveral {mall iflands (I
think it very probable that the North Weft arm of this
opening runs into the firft large found that we entered).
They ftill faw no inhabitants, therefore continued to fteer
275
a & ols a ap
XIH.
See
1787,
Auguft.
Wednél, 15.
on to the South Eaft for a paflage about a mile and a half -
acrofs, made by the Northern part of an ifland juft under
Mount Edgecombe (which was diftinguifhed by the name
of Pitt’s Ifland), and the. oppofite point of land which
we fuppofe to be the main. Through this paflage they
had a view of the fea, and the iflands lying to the South
Eaft of Cape Edgecombe.
Arter getting through the paflage, they fteered among
a clufter of iflands lying near the fhore to the North-
ward of Cape Edgecombe, and anchored to the North-
ward: of the largeft.. This ifland bore North from the
Cape about three leagues diftant, and feveral other iflands
lay to the South Eaft of this clufter, fix leagues diftant.
Nn 2 They
276
Cc. H. A:P.
XIII.
qe —~/
1787.
Auguft.
Wednef. 15.
A WO WAI Re TO. TE
They remained here fome time without feeing any inhabit-
ants; and as the wind had fet in from the South Eaft,
which prevented them from proceeding any further in that
direction, they were preparing to return back again, when
a canoe made its appearance with fix people in her, from
whom they procured fome fea-otter fkins, and foon after-
wards they were vifited by a few other canoes; but the ~
people were not by any means fo numerous as might na-
turally have been expected in fo fine a fituation. Their
vifiters gave them to underftand, that a veffel with two
mafts had lately anchored near the place where the boat
then lay; and from the articles of trade which the natives
poflefled, I had fcarcely a doubt but this veflel was the
Queen Charlotte. The different articles our people faw
were hawks bells, tin kettles, buckles, and rings, all of
them the fame pattern with our own; they had alfoa
Sandwich Ifland calabafh, and a number of towes. The
boat lay in this fituation two days, during which time the
people were on fhore, but they did not fee any appear-
ance of wood having been recently cut down, or any other
fign of a fhip’s crew having lately been on fhore; fo that I
fhould fuppofe if the Queen Charlotte had anchored near this
fituation, it was in her paflace to King George’s Sound;
and having wooded and watered before fhe left Prince
William’s Sound, they would have no occafion to carry on
any operations of that fort at this place. Mefirs. Hilkand
Hayward obferved many of thofe people to be marked with
the {mall-pox, and made the fame obfervations there re-
{pecting that diforder that I had done in this harbour,
which was, that none under ten or twelve years of bee
bore any marks of the diforder.
A SHORT
-NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
A suort time before they intended failing to return to
the fhip, and while the people were bufy i in putting the
boat to rights on deck, the Indians went in two boats, and
took an opportunity be cutting their cable. The chor
lay in twenty-eight fathoms water without a buoy, fo
that there was no chance of recovering it. After doing
this piece of mifchief, the Indians made for the fhore
with all the hafte imaginable, and landed at a little dif
tance from the long-boat. Our people purfued them, and
being a good deal exafperated at their daring and infolent
behaviour, they landed with the boat, and entirely de-
{troyed both the Indian boats. The natives fled with pre-
cipitation into the woods, which put a {top to our people’s
purfuit; and I believe they did them no further injury. I
was forry that the boat’s crew fhould have been under the
neceflity of taking this ftep; but undoubtedly this crime
committed by the Indians was of fo very mifchievous a
nature, that it became neceffary to punifh them in fome
meafure for it; and it is very probable that deftroying their
boats (which it muft coft them much time and trouble to
rebuild) would make a greater impreffion than even taking
away numbers of their lives. After filling their water,
and getting a little wood on board, the long-boat returned
to the fhip by the fame paflage that they went through,
and during the whole paflage did not fee a fingle canoe.
Tue night before they got on board, James Blake, one
of the boat’s crew, fell overboard: the boat was going
very faft through the water when. this accident happened,
and had got a confiderable way to leeward before they
brought her to. Blake could fwim but very indifferently,
but fortunately was faved by John M‘Coy (another of the
7 boat’s
277
© HAP,
XIII.
|
1787.
Auguft.
Wednef. 15.
1787.
Auguft,
Wednef. 15.
Thurfday 16,
Friday 17.
Saturday 18.
BEE NNO EE ee Ge Bey olay eee
‘ boat’s crew) fwimming to him with an oar, which fup-
ported him until he was pulled into the boat, and it was
near an hour before they got him on board, owing to a
frefh breeze, and his being dire@ly to windward.
On the 16th the fhip’s company were employed in
wooding and watering, and getting the fhip ready for fea.
In “the "forenoon two Indian boats came along-fide, from
whom I bought a few tolerably good fea-otter fkins. In
the afternoon we completed our water, and the long-boat’s
crew had leave given them to go on fhore,.
Tue weather during the whole of the 17th was f{qually
and unfettled, the wind blowing very frefh from the Eaft-
ward, which prevented any bufinefs from going forward.
In the courfe of the day we were vifited by one canoe,
which brought a few indifferent fea-otter fkins.
Ar eight o’clock in the morning of the 18th I went in
the wale. boat to the South point of the entrance into
the Sound to fee how the wind prevailed out at fea. I
landed on a part of the point that was fheltered from the
furf by fome rocks; from which fituation I had a good view
of the fea and the fhores to the North Weft and South
Eaft of this entrance. I found the wind in the entrance
~and at fea to be about South Weft by South, blowing
ftrong and in fqualls, which fent in on the rocks tid ee
ZI Betichiddus furf. After taking fome bearings from this
point, I embarked with an intention of examining the
Eaftern part of the Sound. About noon we rowed under
the lee-of a {mall ifland, and took fhelter under fome trees
that hung over the water, where we refrefhed ourfelves
with
i
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
with fome {moked falmon. From this we proceeded on to
the Eaftward, under the Southern fhore of the Sound,
and after rowing about two leagues, came to another
paffage leading out to fea in the direction of South Weft.
This paffage is about three quarters of a mile acrofs, with
bold rocky fhores, againft which the furf broke with
great fury; and the wind being direétly in, a heavy fea
fet up the paflage. I found in the mid channel between
twenty and thirty fathoms water over a bottom of hard
fand, and the pafiage from the inner to the outer points
appeared to be about two miles long. The wind blowing
frefh, and there being a very heavy fea, I was prevented
from going through it as I at firft intended, and got only
two thirds of the way: from which fituation I could fee
the fea break on fome rocks that run out a little way from
the outer point; but between them the paflage appeared
good and clear. ‘This paflage I guefs to be about two
leagues to the South Eaft of the one we came in at with
the fhip. Finding it impoflible to proceed further out,
we bore up, fet our fails, and run in again to the Sound.
I proceeded on, and found the South fhore to run nearly
Faft for one mile and a half, when a {mall river emptied it~
felfinto the Sound. The fhore then took a North North Eaft
direGtion for about two miles more, in which fituation the
land took a quick turn round, and there appeared a paflage
neat half a mile acrofs, navigable, and trending away di-
rectly to the Eaftward. I did not follow this paflage, as
the boat’s crew were quite wet, and a good deal fatigued
with pulling; but landed in a fmall bay to the Northward
of it, where we took fome reirefhment.
In
279
Cab AuE:
XIII.
ee
1787.
Auguf.
Saturday 18.
Xa.
Saturday 18.
the memory of fome diftinguifhed
and in a quadrangular form.
om VO YeAcGE. gos
In this bay, and noe: ‘more
beach, there was a kind of monumer
was compofed of four pofts, each abou
fuck in the ground fix’ feet diftant
_ About
feet from the ground there was a
two of the fides were boarded
os fides were left ie : In rie
the Sound, there was ea ae Tpleabla
face. This wooden Bc from. its tott
‘bon: Ss crew atten vam Sue es up. an order.
the whole fabric had like to have given
ordered him to defift, as I was “not wi
building that probably was oked upon
as facred, and mmel ae ge ode) v
to spiny "ess eet
Ye
a
LLL
7
Oplr Lr mur 7
a pppyy
>
2
Si
buy
po parazyyf
Wg
C
Ye
AKG
5 ( ? bh YON
y,
2h) fh iu
7
Wd Un fy
lh
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
given in the annexed plate. We now fteered nearly Weft ‘
for the fhip, and as we rowed along, I found the North
fhore of the Sound to run in-a North Weft direction
for about a mile and a half; it then took a quick turn
in to the Northward, and formed a fine harbour, with a
few {mall iflands well covered with trees fcattered
about the entrance, and the harbour feemed to run in
for three or four miles. About fix o’clock in the after-
noon I got on board, and underftood from Mr. Hill (to
whofe direction I left the trading bufinefs), that fome of
the natives had been on board, from whom he purchafed
a few pieces of fea-otter and fome good ermine fkins.
On the zoth we had a frefh gale from the South
South Weft, with violent fqualls and heavy rains. To-
281
C H «
XIII.
Seed
1787.
Aug ut,
Sat ps 18.
Sunday 1g-
wards evening the wind fhifted to the Eaftward, and —
grew moderate; but the weather ftill continuing rainy,
none of the natives came near us. Neither the wind nor
weather appearing fettled enough to get out to fea with, I
kept the cooper on fhore brewing fpruce eflence for fea
ftore ; the reft of the people were employed in other ne-
ceflary works.
In the forenoon of the 2oth our late vifiter from the
North Weft made his appearance in a large boat ; his party
confifted of twenty men and women, befides ten or twelve
boys and girls, and a few infants.
As this chief, when he laft.took leave of me, had pro-
mifed to return. with a good cargo of fea-otter fkins, I
expected a brifk trade to commence every moment, aad
prepared myfelf accordingly; but I prefently found that
Oo: at
Monday 204
282
CHA P.
XML.
eae
1787.
Auguft.
Monday zo.
A VOYAGE TO THE
at this time my old acquaintance was not for tranfa@ing
his bufinefs in a hurry ; and perhaps he thought that on
his laft vifit we were not imprefled with a fufficient idea
of his importance; for now he came along-fide with his —
party in great pomp and folemnity, all of them finging ;
and in addition to the vocal concert, they entertained us
with inftrumental mufic, which confifted of a large old
cheft, beaten with the hands, by way of a drum, and two
rattles. The rattles were two feet long, and about two
inches round, made of hollow pieces of wood neatly
joined together, and a number of {mall {tones being put
in, they were clofed at both ends. The chief held one of
thefe rattles in his hand, which he frequently fhook with
an air of meaning intelligence, and the reft of his tribe
feemed to follow his direétions, in finging in the moft exaé
manner.
His drefs was an old coat, made of cloth which for-
merly had been fearlet, with fome old gold or filver fringe
about the fhoulders; but that ornament being efteemed of
little value, the cloak was decorated down each fide with
buttons, and {mall lead pipes, each about an inch long.
His hair, after being well rubbed with oil, was entirely
filled with down taken from gulls, and which is always
worn by the Indian chiefs when in full drefs. In this
grotefque figure he difplayed as much importance as any
Spanifh don could poflibly have done. Befides the curious
drefs which the chief himfelf wore, he had another in the
boat-not lefs remarkable than his own, and ornamented:
nearly in the fame manner, which was worn during the
time of their fnging by a woman whom I took for his.
wife.
AFTER
NORTH WEST COASTAOF AMERICA.
Arter this long ceremony was over, the chief made
me a prefent of half a fea-otter fkin,» but did not produce
any thing for fale; giving me to underftand at the fame
time that he muft go on fhore before any traffic could be
carried on. After ftaying there fome time (which I ap-
prehend was taken up in afforting their furs) he returned
with his party; and now I expected our’ trade to begin in
good earneft; but in this I was again difappointed ; for.
the finging again commenced, and by way of varying our
amufement, the chief appeared in different charaéers
during ihe time his people were finging; and always
changed his drefs when he varied his character ; in doing
of which fome of his companions held up a large mat, by
way of fcene, to prevent us from feeing what was going
on behind the curtain. At one time he appeared in the
character of a warrior, and feemed to have all the favage
ferocity of the Indian conqueror about him. He fhewed
us the manner in which they attacked their enemies, their
method of fighting, and their behaviour to the vanquifhed
enemy. He next affumed the character of a woman, and
to make his imitation more complete, he wore a mafk,
which reprefented a woman’s face with their ufual orna-
ments; and indeed it fo exactly refembled a woman’s face,
that I am pretty certain it was beyond the reach of Indian
art, and muft certainly have been left by the Spann in
shies laft vifit to this part of the coat.
AFTer this entertainment was over (with which it was
neceflary for us to appear pleafed), the chief and fome
of his people came on board, and trade at laft commenced
between us. In the cae of the day I bought twenty-
five pieces of tolerably good fea-otter, equal to about ten
Oo 2 whole
283
C HA P,
XI.
Neen - eed
1787.
Auguk,
Monday zo.
284
CHAP.
XIII.
ee ed
1787.
Auguft.
Monday 20.
A VOYAGE TO THE
whole fkins; but it fhould feem as if the chief wanted me
to pay for the entertainment he had given us, as well as
his furs; for I could not purchafe a good: fkin for lefs than
a light-horfeman’s cap, two yards of inferior broad-cloth,
a pair of buckles, two handfuls of fmall beads, and two
fifh-hooks. The articles we bartered with were light-
horfemen’s caps, ftriped woollen blankets, towes, eighteen
or twenty inches long, buckles, buttons, and beads of all
forts, but particularly {mall tranfparent ones, either green,
blue, or yellow. However, I could not procure even a
piece of a fkin with any of the latter articles; they only
were given by way of concluding a bargain, as were tin
kettles, brafs pans, and pewter bafons; but hatchets,
adzes, and howels, they would fcarcely take for any. thing
whatever. :
My vifiter was equally tedious in trading as he had ©
been in his entertainment ; fo that I could not get every
thing he had to difpofe of during the whole day, and
about eight o’clock in the evening, our traffic for the day
being over, he fent his boat on fhore, and remained on
board with one of his people for the night ; and as he re-
quired an hoftage, I fent Jofeph Woodcock on fhore with
his party.
Woopcocx having frequently been on fhore as an hoft-
age, was well known to the natives, and they feemed
very fond of his company. On one of thefe occafions he
remained among the Indians for:three days; during which
time he had a good opportunity of feeing their cuftoms
and mode of living ; and his account perfeétly agreed with
my own obfervations when on fhore. Their filth and
naftinefs
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
naftinefs were beyond conception; their food, which
confifted chiefly of fith, was mixed up with ftinking oil,
and other ingredients equally difagreeable, and the re-
mains of every meal were thrown into a corner of their
hut, upon a heap of the fame kind that was ina ftate of
utrefaction,, which, together with large quantities of fat
and ftinking oil, caufed a very loathfome and offenfive
fmell ; and raha rendered it ftill worfe, the fame apart-
ment cues them both to eat and fleep in.
Tuts uncomfortable fituation frequently induced. Wood-
eock to take a ramble into the woods ; but he was always
very narrowly watched by fome of his new companions, who
feemed to apprehend that he was endeavouring to make his
efcape from them. Once in particular, having wandered a
confiderable diftance from the Indians place of refidence, he
began to amufe himfelf with whiftling part of an old fong,
285
CH Are
XIIL.
Monday zo;
not expecting, if the natives heard him, that it could pof-”
fibly be a matter of offence ; but in this he was miftaken,
for feveral of them. immediately ran up to him, and in-
fifted on his giving over: at firft he did not comprehend.
their meaning, and went on with his tune; however, one
of them foon put a ftop to it by laying his hand: on:
Woodcock’s mouth ; being apprehenfive that he meant
the whiftling as a fional for fome of his companions to
come for him, Except their watching him fo clofely,
they treated him with great kindnefs ; and at their meals
always g save him eS they confidered. as choice dain-.
ties, mixing his fifh with plenty of ftinking oil. which.
in their opinion gave it an additional and raok aprecable
relifh ; and he found it no eafy matter to. perfuade them.
to let him eat his fifth without fauce.
THESE:
286
CHAP.
XIll.
A WOW A G4EV WO © He
Turse poor wretches, by living in fo filthy a manner,
“—-— were intirely covered with vermin; but this they feemed
Aupul,
Monday 20.
Tuefday 21.
to confider as no kind of inconvenience; for at any time
when the lice grew troublefome they picked and ate them
with the greateft relifh and compofure: fometimes indeed,
when they were greatly peftered, and had not an oppor-
tunity of ridding themfelves of their guefts in that manner,
they would turn their jackets, and wear the infide out-
wards, by way of giving them a few hours refpite.
Poor Woodcock foon became as much incumbered
with vermin as his companions, but ufe had not as yet
reconciled him to fuch troublefome guefts, and he felt his
fituation extremely difagreeable. The Indians endeavoured
to perfuade him to difpofe of them in the manner they did;
but this was fo totally repugnant to his feelings, that they
foon perceived his diflike to their propofal. At length he
perfuaded one of the women to rid him of the vermin, and
fhe (probably confidering them as a peculiar dainty)
accepted the office with pleafure, and entirely cleared him
from every thing of the kind.
Av daylight in the morning of the 21ft, I fent Mr.
Hayward in the yaul out to the entrance of the Sound,
to fee what wind prevailed there and in the offing: he
returned about eight o’clock, and informed me that the
wind was at South Weft By Weft in the offing, which
threw a heavy fea into the paflage. As there was no pro-
{pect of our getting to fea with the wind in that quarter,
I kept the people to work in brewing, fawing i and
other neceflary employments.
2
AsourT
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
287
Asour feven in the morning the Indian chief with his © i
party returned on board, and our trade again commenced ;
but I found him equally tedious in the difpofal of his furs
as on the preceding day. Towards noon J fent Mr. Hay-
ward to the South point of the entrance into the Sound,
to get a meridian altitude. He landed on the South point,
and got one which gave the latitude of that point 57° 44’
North ; the latitude of the fhip’s place in the harbour was
57° 40.
Durine the day I bought of my vifiters about the fame
quantity of furs as I had done the day before, and nearly
at the fame prices. About feven o’clock, our trading was
finifhed ; and as I knew the neighbourhood was cleared of
all the furs, I determined to quit the Sound the firft op-
portunity ; and this evening the fhip was put in a ftate
fit for fea.
I rounp this party from the North Weft much more
addi&ed to thieving than any of our former vifiters in the
Sound were; and it is really aftonifhing to fee with what
patience a thief will wait when once he has fixed his eye
on the thing he means to fteal, and with what fecrecy
and dexterity they will convey their booty away. One
fellow in particular took a liking to my drinking-mug,
which was a black-jack ; and he had got it under his
frock, which are made in the: fame manner as at Prince
William’s Sound; but very unfortunately for the poor
fellow, it happened to be about half full of beer, a part
ef which fplafhing over, difcovered the thief and his in-
tentions. Notwithftanding I kept two people conftantly
in my cabin to watch the by-ftanders, whilft I traded with
—
ye
Ne pel
1787.
Auguft.
Tuefday 21.
288
Coy AP.
XIII.
1787.
Augutt.
Tuefday 21.
ANY OY A GSE? TP Ones ri ge.
‘any of them, one fellbw found an opportunity to get a
cutlafs under his frock, and was not difcovered till he was
going down the fide of the fhip: I immediately took it
from him, and gave him a very fevere chaftifement with
the flat fide of it, and afterwards drove him out of the
fhip ; -yet notwithftanding all our vigilance and attention,
another of them found means to fteal out of a box in my
cabin four pair of worfted ftockings and fome other things,
with which he found means to get out of the fhip undif
covered. Our vifiters from the Eaft were much eafier to
deal with, and much honefter. It appears to me that the
inhabitants of this Sound, and thofe farther to the Eaft-
ward, ftand much in awe of them; for they frequently
importuned me very earneftly to drive them away; beingex-
tremely uneafy all the timethey wereon board. ‘The Weftern
people appear to me to be much more warlike and favage
than any of their neighbours ; their language varies a little
from the others; but their fongs and mufic are entirely dif-
ferent; their boats, weapons for war, and hunting im~
plements, are much the fame. They appear to be very in-
dolent and dirty, which naturally expofes them to all
manner of vermin, and which 1s difpofed of in the man-
ner already mentioned. ‘They have not the ufe of bladder-
4kin frocks for their drefs, but make drefles of the fkins of
Jand and fea animals, made up in the fame.manner as
the inhabitants of Cook’s River and Prince William’s
Sound. ‘The men do not ufe the method of flitting their
under-lips ; but wear their ornaments of beads, fhells, &c. -
at their ears, through which they have {mall holes bored ;
they likewife bore a {mall hole through the griftle of the
nofe, through which they will fometimes put a needle or
nail that they purchafe in trade, or may have given them
19 as
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
as a prefent; but the women disfigure themfelves in a
moft extraordinary manner, by making an incifion in the
under-lip ; in which part they wear a piece of wood made
in an oval form a little hollow on each fide, and about
the thicknefs of a quarter of an inch; the outer part of
the rim is hollowed all round: this curious piece of
wood is thruft into the hole, and. is fecured there by the
rim of the lip going round it, fixed in the hollow which is
made round the wood. They appear to be worn large or
{mall in proportion to the age of the women, or perhaps
to the number of the children they have bore; thofe that
I took to be between thirty and forty years of age wore
them about the fize of a {mall faucer, and the older larger
in proportion ; one old woman, I remarked particularly,
having one as large as a large faucer. The weight of this
trencher or ornament weighs the lip down fo as to cover
the whole of the chin, leaving all the lower teeth and gum
“quite naked and expofed, which gives them a very difagree-
able appearance. When they eat, it is cuftomary for them to
take more in the mouth at a time than they can poflibly
fwallow ; when they have chewed it, the lip-piece ferves
them as a trencher to put it out of then mouths on, and then
they take it occafionally. : It feems a general practice among
the females to wear the wooden ornament in théir under-
lip ; the children have them bored at about two years of
age, when a piece of copper-wire is put through the hole ;
this they wear till the age of about thirteen or four-
teen years, when it is taken out, and the wooden orna-
ment introduced ; its farft faze is about the width of a
button. They likewife have their ears’ bored, where they
wear their ornaments of beads and other things. Their
apparel is the fame kind as wore by the men; both men
Pp and
289
CH A P.
XI.
Es
Tuefday 21.
‘Tuefday 21.
A’ WOVAGEDT Of eae
- and women being very fond of long hair, which is con-
fidered as a great ornament. At the death of a friend the
hair is cut off pretty fhort, which feems to be the general
mourning of all Indian tribes. “The women wear the hair
either clubbed behind or tied up in a bunch on the crown
of the head; the men wear theirs either loofe or tied at
the crown. ‘The method of dreffing the hair with birds-
down is only practifed by the men. The women in ge-
neral are hair-dreffers for their hufbands, which office they
feem to perform with a great deal of dexterity and good-
nature.
Potycamy I think is not practifed here, as I never ob-
ferved any one of them to have more than one woman
whom he feemed to confider as his wife, to whom they-
pay very ftri& attention and treat with a great deal of af-
fection and tendernefs: you cannot affront them more than
by attempting to make advances to their wives. ‘They
likewife are very fond of, and remarkably affectionate to,
their children. The womenare the keepers of their trea-
fures or riches, which they generally have in a box or
bafket, and always take the lead in fafhions, which they
fhew by the placing of their ornaments, or fixing fuchacu-
riofity to be the favourite of the day. It is not the cuftom
with thofe people, as with the South Sea iflanders, for the
men and women to eat feparately, nor are the women
confined to eat meats of a particular defcription; but for
men, women, and children, to fit down -indifcriminately
at their meals, which chiefly confift of fth of different
kinds; fuch as falmon, which they have in the greateft
abundance, muffels, and various other fhell-fifh, fea-
otters, feals, and porpoifes; the blubber of the porpoife
I they
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
they are remarkably fond of, and indeed the flefh of any
animal that comes in their way. I could never obferve
that they had any quantity of dried falmon provided for a
winter’s ftock ; fo what they live on at that fevere part
of the feafon I am at a lofs to find out, unlefs they
catch land-animals in the neighbourhood of their winter
quarters. I am greatly inclined to believe the principal
part of their provifion at that feafon is confined to the
inner fine bark of the pine-tree. Any tin kettles they get
from us they make ufe of to drink out of. They boil
their vidtuals in wooden veflels, by conftantly putting red-
hot ftones into the water.
Tueir perfons are in general much about the fize of
Europeans. The men have a very fierce and favage afpe@,
which, with their drefs, gives them much the appearance
of warriors; their weapons of war are daggers and long
pointed fpears ; they are very eafily irritated, and would
make very little fcruple to kill you when they think them-~
felves injured. More than once I had nearly experienced
that fate, from fome trifling difagreements in trade; but
being pretty well acquainted with their tempers, I guarded
as much againft them as poffible; and on all occafions
took care to be well provided for them in cafe of an at-
tempt, by keeping my piftols ready-charged before me.
THEIR women, were it not for the filth and naftinefs
which continually cover them, would be by no means
difagreeable ; their features in general are pleafing, and
their carriage modeft. They frequently gave us opportu-
291
¢.H A Fi
XIII.
SF
1787-
Auguf.
Tuefday z1.
nities to obferve their with to pleafe, particularly when the —
Pp 2 wooding:
292
CH AE:
XIII.
a)
1787.
Auguft.
Tuefday 21.
AW OY cAY Gik TO eae ee:
wooding party were on fhore ; at thefe times they would
place themfelves in a line, and begin finging and making
motions all the time the men were at work ; and if their
drollery happened to pleafe the people, and make them
laugh, they all immediately joined in a loud burft of
laughter ; and when the Indians were not there, they
would affift the people in getting wood and taking it to
the boats. They were particularly ufeful in taking the
wood from the beach through the furf to the boat, as
they were not encumbered with fhoes and ftockings; and
it faved the men from wetting themfelves. But if at any
time the Indians came to them at the time when they were
thus making themfelves ufeful, they would inftantly drive
them all away with very little ceremony. Upon fuch
occafions as thefe, I ufed to give the people {mall bright
buttons to make them prefents, with which their pride
and ambition were highly gratified. One time, not having
an opportunity of fending the boat on fhore at the ufual
hour, to fetch the wooding-party on board, the women
gave them an invitation to their habitations, which was
about three hundred yards from the place where they were
at work ; and upon this ‘occafion treated them (or offered
to do it) with every thing their wretched habitations af-
forded, and behaved very kindly to them. Their huts are
made of a few boards, which they take away with them
when they go to their winter quarters. It is very furprifing
to fee how well they will fhape their boards with the
fhocking tools they employ ; fome of them being full ten
feet long, two feet and a half broad, and not more than an
inch thick.
Tue
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 203
Tue country is very mountainous, and covered with © ¥ A P
the pine-tree, a great number of which grow to an “-—~
amazing, fize. : Avent!
Tueflday 21.
Tuetr language is harfh and unpleafant to the ear: a
fpecimen of which I have here given, fpelled as near the
manner of their pronunciation as [ could give it:
Hat-feene = -
Youtes - -
Hatata - -
Caw-wout - -
Hoetaa - -
Caa- congo - ioe
- Een = -
Youtes-Gaatea - -
A-gua-goone
Cow-a-ka-na -
Onowfka - -
La-la -
Claake ;
Sulk -
Clacke -
Taike - -
Nofk - -
Ta-koon - -
Kacheene - =
Clay-too-fhoe: -
Tack-a-too-fhoe -
Nufk-a-too-fhoe -
Coo-fhuck = -
Cheene-caught
Cheene-caught ca-ka-cheene
Baas Dt 0 SOD Stee DT ee te 8 ES) als Eb SHe
give or hand me.
Jea-otter.
bring.
beads.
iron.
blanket.
water.
young fea otter.
bad.
boftage or friend/bip..
a. box.
the tongue.
berries like a wild rafpberry.
marmot or ermine /kin.
one.
two.
three..
four..
Jive.
ine
Seven.
eight.
nine.
- ten.
Jifteens.
Tuey have a great number of curiofities amongft them,
many of which fhew them to be a people of great inge-
They make a curious bafket of
twigs, in which they frequently boil their viduals; by put-
nuity and contrivance.
7
ting.
29
Cy Ee TAL
XII.
W——
1787.
Auguf.
Tuelday 21.
women gave him a comb, which is made. in fi
"= pet asco. reprefent | aly: eagle; an engraving: of both fides
eo@b. which: T have given in the annexed plate. —
A= 3-0-9 AG Be SPEER
ting red-hot {tones into them. ‘They have tolerable ideas
of carving, and indeed almoft every, utenfil ae iam ufe
of has fome kind of. rudey carving, teprefenting one, animal
or other. | Whilft ‘Woodcock ° was with them,
- Cus
riofities were not the articles we were in in purfu: t of, I gave
ftrict charge to my. people not to p fe any. thing, “be-
ing apprehenfive that if I allowed a ig of that nature,
the natives would not have been induced to have beoneht
us any fkins for fale, as they are very ufeful, and neceflary
for their clothing, whilft the others are only, the amufe-
ments of their leifure hours, and many of ae made by
their women.
IT sHatu.now take leave a my Indian” Mees, and
for the Jatt time of the American coatt. The Se gmiable
value of their furs will ever make it a defirable trade, and
whenever it is eftablifhed upon a proper foundation, and a
{ettlement made, will become a very valuable and lucrative
branch of commerce. It would be an eafy matter for either
Government or our Eaft India Company to make a fettle-
ment of this kind; and the thinnefs of the inhabitants will
make it a matter a ealy practicability ; 3 and as the Com-
pany are under the -neceflity. of: paying the Chinefe in
cafh for their teas, I look upon it a fettlement on this coaft
might be affe@ed at a very inconfiderable expence, which
would more than pay them for every article that is brought
from China. Another convenierice likely to accrue, is
from a well-known enterprifing ch: aradter having, if he
meets with proper peecuee lent J fro sm the country, in-
ea — 3 tentions
cue os CA ;
Ande fom SLID Letands .
FATAL
Cf 7
WES PCE” fc
Sandlutcdy Jtandds
Cae ae A , :
Q Drothex Sine fron Sandwich JSitlands -
W 2 4-.
GPibltisted fune +. 1759, by A Stockdale 8 G Ciulding
“NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tentions of going over land to thefe parts; by this means
will be finally determined the long fought North Weft
paflage, with fome account of the interior parts of the
country, to which we are yet entire ftrangers. That fuch
an event may take place, muft be the with of every
lover of his country; and though the enterprife is fraught
with every danger that idea can fuggeft, yet what is it that
Britifh valour dares not attempt?
On the 22d at daylight I fent Mr. Hayward out to fee
what wind prevailed in the paflage ; in the meantime un-
moored. About five o’clock Mr. Hayward returned; he
found the wind light and variable, with fome {well in the
paffage. At feven o’clock a breeze {prung up about Weft
North Weft, with which we weighed, and came to fail,
and proceeded towards the entering of the Sound, which as
we approached, we found the wind very light and variable,
from Weft to Weft South Weft, with a confiderable fwell.
Heaving into the paflage about ten, the wind very faint,
and almoft dire@ly in, got the whale-boat and yaul a-head
to tow the fhip. At eleven very near calm, making
very little progrefs; but foon after a fteady moderate breeze
fprung up from the Weft, and juft about this time the
tide of ebb making, and the two boats a-head, we got
out apace, the Indians in their boats following us at fome
diftance, and on our getting out of the paflage, they
returned and went into the Sound. _.
On the 23d about one o’clock we cleared the rocks
which lie of the South point of the harbour, and ftood
away South, the wind at Weft South Weft. Onthe 24th
a breeze at South Eaft by South, with thick rainy wea-
ther, with which we ftood to the South Weft by South,
the
295
ie Vitesse te
XIilt.
———
Auguft.
Tuefday 21s
Wednef. 22,
Thurfday 23.
Friday 24.
296 AINO VA'@EOT OFTHE
CH AP.
am the land in fight ; no obfervation. The 25th light winds
\—— and variable, with thick drizzling rain, fteering South Weft
aAugut. half South. On the 26th a freth breeze and foggy, fteer-
Sana oe" ‘ ing South South Eaft, the wind at South Weft. The 27th
Monday 27- 4 frefh gale from Weft North Weft, and cloudy, fteering
South South Eaft. On the 28th a frefh gale from North
Weft, with fog at times. Pafled fome drift wood, a feal,
and feveral pieces of fea-leek: our latitude 50° ©
North,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
CH AP... XIV.
Paffage from the Coaft to the Sandwich Iflands.—Tranfattions
there.—Letters received from Captain Dixon and Mr.
Rofs.—Some Particulars received from Taa-boo-a-raa-
ne refpetting the Death of Captain Cook.—Defcrip-
tion of the White Tern.—Cruelty of the Chiefs to their
Inferiors.—Obfervations on a Trade to Botany Bay from
thefe Iflands.—Our final Departure from them.—Pafjage
to China.—Arrival there.
EDNESDAY a2gth Augult 1787, to Sunday 16th
‘September: nothing in the courfe of this time oc-
curred which claims particular notice; but being now in
longitude 136° 24’, there is a {mall ifland faid to have
been difcovered by fome Spanifh navigator, and laid down,
the North part of it, in latitude 26° 50 North, and lon-
gitude of the Weft part of it 135° 0° Weft; and at two
judging myfelf about five leagues to the N orthward of that
latitude, and in the longitude of 136° 20° Weft, I thought
it not prudent to run nearer its latitude nae daylight ;
therefore at two in the morning tacked and ftood to the
Weft North Weft until half paft three, when I ftood again
to the Southward. At four, a moderate breeze and cloudy
weather, the wind at South Weft, ftanding to the South
South Eaft, and at daylight there was no appearance of
land.
aa ka On
297
C HAP.
XIV.
ce, ee?
1787.
September.
Sunday 16.
298 ALLNLORN) ANG EO Toa eG
CH vy.) On the 17th, attwoin the morning, ftanding to theSouth
-——~ by Eaft, faw a large flight of flying fith, the frft during
september. the paflage. At 2° 30” I got two fets of diftances of the fun
Men 17" and moon, which gaye the longitude at that time 136°
8’ 15 Welt. I judge thefe fights to be the moft accurate
I had taken, and therefore fhall fuppofe the longitude de--
duced from her to be the’ true longitude of the fhip. At
Tuefday 18. five in the morning faw a few tropic birds, and fome bottle-
Thurfday 27. nofed porpoifes. From .-this time to the 27th nothing
happened to engage attention; and then, at half paft eight
we faw the high land of Owhyhee, bearing Weft South
Weft half Weft, diftant fifteen or twenty leagues; and
Friday 28. On the 28th at five in the morning, at which time it was
daylight, we found ourfelves about two leagues and a half
from the land: at which time: we bore up, and made fail
towards the fhore. At half paft five we were about fix
miles from the fhore, when a multitude of canoes came
off with the different produdtions of the ifland; fuch
as hogs, fowls, bread-fruit, taro, plantains, and a few
cocoa-nuts. Of the shes articles they- brought us an
abundant fupply; and although there was a heavy fwell,
and the day unfettled, fome of them made three or fade
trips to fhore before fe evening came on for other cargoes,
as they difpofed of their firft. We remained within four
or five miles of the fhore, from feven in the morning until
about feven in the evening, during which time I fuppofe
we bought of hogs and pigs near two hundred; fowls
about fix dozen; Faboull threc Veendtot Wied: Kind fome ~
bafs rope and fifhing-lines, enough, when laid up, to make
about 150 fathom of two-inch rope, the beft lines that
can be made; and we found very little trouble in trading
with them, and bought provifions very cheap. They brought
very
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
very little falt; and I think very little of that article can
be procured shout the ifland, except on the Weft fide,
where it may be bought in great abundance. The whole
day about fourteen hands ee employed in killing and
falting for fea ftore, and by the evening we had falted
about two tierces. A number of the large hogs we fkin-
ned, finding their fkins of great ufe, for the purpofe of
leathering the foot of our fails. To preferve the fkins we
let them lie twenty-four hours in pickle, and then hung
them up to dry. After they had been two or three days
hanging out, we made them up in bundles, and, by air-
ing them now and then, found they would keep any length
of time. At noon, fqually unfettled weather, with fome
rain, the wind about Eaft North Eaft ; the Northernmoft
parts of the ifland in fight Weft by North; the Eaft part
of the ifland covered with {qualls; our diftance from the
neareft part of the ifland about five miles. I could not
learn from thefe people of any. fhip — been lately at
this ifland.
Sarurpay, September 29th, 1787, light variable winds,
with frequent fhowers of rain, a very heavy fwell from the °
North Eaft rolling in on fhore, which made the furf very
furious on. the rocks. At four in the morning, although
only four or five miles from the fhore, the weather was fo
thick, that we could not fee it : at half paft five in the morn-
ing it cleared up a little, when the Northernmoft part of
the land in fight bore Weft by North half North, eight
or ten leagues diftant, and the Eaft point bore South by
Eaft. At fix in the evening a light breeze at Eaft, with
open cloudy weather. Two canoes remained with us
until this time, when they went for the fhore. At eight
Qgqg 2 in
299
CHA P.
XIV.
(ee |
1797
September.
Friday 28.
Saturday 296
300
CHAP.
XIV.
a eed
1787.
September.
Saturday 29.
A VOYAGE TO’ PHE
in the evening, judging myfelf about three leagues from
the land, at which diftance I wifhed to keep during the
night, we hauled up our courfes, and under our top-fails
ftood to the North by Eaft about a knot and a half per
hour, until midnight; then wore fhip, and ftood to the
South Eaft by South a knot and a half per hour, until
two in the morning ; then wore again, and ftood to the
North North Eaft, until four in the morning, at which
time we wore and ftood to the South Eaft until daylight,
which was about half an hour paft four. We then found
ourfelves about three leagues from the land, bore up, and ~
run in about South Weft, until about half paft feven. We
were then about five miles from the fhore, the canoes
coming off in numbers, and at eight a brifk trade began
for pro paar and other neceffaries; hauled off to the North
by Eaft, with a light breeze fied the Eaft by North. A
heavy fell rolling in, made it neceflary to keep the fhip
under fail; and with all the fail we could make, we could
{carce hold our own againft it.
Ar noon a moderate breeze from the Eaftward, with
clear weather, the Eaft point of Owhyhee bore South
Eaft by South about twelve leagues, and the Northermoft
part of the ifland in fight Weft by North about nine or
ten leagues, our diftance from the neareft fhore about four
or five miles: no obfervation to be depended on. During
the day caught feveral very large fharks. It is really afto-
nifhing to fee how little thefe people appear to dread thofe
fifh. I have feen five or fix large fharks fwimming about
the ee when there have been, I dare fay, upwards of an
hundred Indians in the water, men and women; they
feemed quite indifferent about them, and the fharks never
offered
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
offered to make an attack on any of them, and yet at the
fame time would {feize our bait greedily ; eyinnee Has maa
nifeft, that they derive their confidence of fafety, from their
experience that they are able to repel the attacks of thofe
devouring montfters.
On Sunday, September zoth, a moderate breeze from
the Eaftward, with pleafant weather. A vaft number of |
canoes about the fhip, which remained with us till be-
tween three and four in the evening, when having fold all
their cargoes, and gratified their curiofity, they returned
to the fhore. By this time I fuppofe we had bought about
three hundred hogs and pigs, and an abundant fupply of
bread-kind. About four in the evening, with a fine little
breeze from the North Eaft by Eaft, we made fail from the
ifland, and ftood to the hls Welt by North, meaning
to run down on the North fide of the iflands to Atoui,
where, if the Queen Charlotte had been before us, I
fhould expect to receive fome intelligence; if not, I fhould
have an opportunity of leaving a letter with our old friend
Abbenooe for captain Dixon, in cafe he fhould call at
that ifland. At four in the evening the Northernmoft part
of Owhyhee in fight, Weft three quarters North, and the:
Eaft point South South Eaft half Eaft, from the neareft
fhore about four leagues. At fix the North point of Owhy-
hee bore Weft about nine or ten leagues, and the Eaft
point South by Eaft three quarters Eaft, twelve or four-
teen leagues diftant, and the high land ‘af Mowee from.
Weft North Weft half Weft to North Weft by Weft half
Weft. At eight, moderate and cloudy weather; at midnight,
light winds, with open cloudy weather; fteering North Weft
by North, about two knots and a half per hour, the wind
at
30%
CHA P;
XIV.
-- MAE or :
se fe
Saturday 29.
Sunday 30,
302
Cea A Pe
XIV.
i.
1787.
September.
Sunday jo.
Oétober.
Monday 1.
Tuefday 2.
Wednef. 3.
AGAIN OTY AtG SEA TE Fit Tapas
at Eaft North Eaft. At four in the morning a light breeze
from the Eaft South Eaft, with cloudy weather. At eight
the Eaft point of Owhyhee bore South Eaft by South, and
the North point bore South Weft, diftant from the neareft
fhore feven or eight leagues; the ifland of Mowee extending
from Welt half South to Weft by North. During the day
a number of hands were employed in ete and falting
pork for fea ftore.
Monpay, 1ft Oéober, foon after dark, I was furprifed
to hear fome Indians calling out to us, and immediately
faw a canoe paddling towards the fhip. She came along-
fide, and remained a few minutes; when fhe returned to-
wards the fhore: fhe was from Mowee, and had nothing
for fale except a few bits of cloth. It is furprifing how
thefe people -do venture off in their ticklifh canoes. This
one was {fo {mall that fhe would hardly contain the two men
that paddled her.
Tusspay the 2d, at noon a moderate breeze at Eaft by
North, with fair pleafant weather: the extremes of Woa-
hoo South 38° Eaft, and South 73° Eaft, diftant from the
neareft part about feven or eight leagues: the ifland of
Atoui extending from South 80° Weft to North 80° Weft,
diftant about twelve leagues. Latitude obferved 21° 58’
North.
Ar four in the morning a moderate breeze at North by
Faft, and fair weather. Soon after four hauled in for the
land, and at daylight (which was foon after five) we found
ourfelves about two leagues from the South point of Atoui,
at which time we edged away for Wymoa Bay. In run-
7 ning
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
ning along-fhore a number of canoes, both large and {mall,
came off to us, but brought hardly any articles of provi-
fion. I learnt from them, that the king and moft of the
principal men of the ifland were at Oneehow, and that,
previous to their fetting off for that ifland, they had ta-
booed the hogs, which effectually put a {top to our getting
any. I alfo learnt from thefe people, that the Nootka
and Queen Charlotte had been at the ifland. The Nootka,
they gave me to underftand, did not anchor, but proceeded
to Oneehow, where fhe lay fome time. The Queen
Charlotte, they told me, anchored in Wymoa Bay, and
remained two days, when fhe left the ifland and ftood to
the Southward. I found from their information, that
captain Dixon had left a letter for me with Abbenooe,
and that it lay at his houfe at Wymao; I therefore
ftretched in for the bay, and when about a mile and a
half from the fhore, brought-to, with the main-topfail to
the matt.
BeTween eight and nine a young man, named Tahiree,.
a fon of Abbenooe’s, came on board, and informed me
that the letter was tabooed in the houfe, and that I could
not get it until Abbenooe either came himfelf, or fent
directions for its being delivered. I thought the beft ftep
I could take was, immediately to pufh for Onechow, and
anchor, where I might have an opportunity of procuring
fome yams, whilft a meflenger was going to Atoui for the
letter. accordingly bore up about ten in the morning,
and made fail for Qneehow, with a fair breeze at Eaft
South Eaft, and fair weather. At noon a moderate breeze
with fair weather, Atoui extending from Eaft by North
to North North Eaft, Wymoa Bay North Eaft by Eaft
about
3P3
Cyl AuP,
XIV.
as
1787.
October,
Wednel. 3.
304
ALOV'O COAG EDT Ot aarers
CHAP. about four leagues; the South point of Oneehow South
asia Welt by Weft, three quarters Weft, feven or eight leagues;
17
Oober.
Wednef. 3.
Thuriday 4.
and the etatd of Orehaw North Weft by Weft, eight
leagues: latitude obferved, 21° 51’ North.
Tauirez, Abbenooe’s fon, and one or two others, took
their paflage with us from Atoui to Oneehow; and from
them I learnt, that there had been fome difturbance be-
tween the Nootka and them, and that Tyaana, a principal
chief of Atoui, had gone off with the Nootka.
A moperate breeze from South Eaft, with fair weather,
fteeering to the South Weft half Weft, at the rate of three
knots an hour. At four, the Northernmoft part of Onee-
how in fight North North Eaft, diftant about three leagues,
and the South head Weft by South, diftant about’ two
miles. At fix in the evening came to an anchor on the
South Weft fide of Oneehow in fixty-two fathoms water, a
fine white fandy bottom, and veered to a cable and a half,
the South head bearing over a point of land Eaft South
Eaft half Eaft, diftant about four or five miles, the Weft
point North 10° Eaft, diftant about two leagues; and the
Peaked Mountain bearing over the low land, North 40°
Eaft, our diftance from the fhore about two miles. It was
by no means neceflary to anchor in fuch deep water as we
then lay in, as, by going about half a mile nearer the
fhore, you may anchor in forty fathoms, a tolerable good
bottom, and at a fufficient diftance from the fhore; and I
would advife no perfon to anchor in lefs water about this
ifland, as, if they do, they ftand a hazardous chance of be-
ing in foul ground. No canoes came off. At midnight
light and variable winds, with clear pleafant weather. At
5 nine
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 405
nine’in the morning two canoes came along-fide, of which © 4 4 ?-
we purchafed a prefent fupply of yams. The people of —-—~ met
thofe canoes told me that Abbenooe would be on board in odoter.
a little time, accompanied by the king and his principal paeay
men. ‘Towards noon no appearance of any canoes; I
came to the determination of fending our whale-boat and
yaul on fhore, to try if any yams could be purchafed from
the natives; meaning, if Abbenooe did not make his ap-
pearance towards the evening, to fail from the ifland. At
noon light variable winds, with fome {mart fhowers of rain.
Sent the boats on fhore under the direction of Mefits.
Hayward and Bryant.
Tue moft of thefe twenty-four hours a frefh breeze and
variable from Eaft South Eaft, around by the Eaft to
North Eaft, with fome fhowers of rain: About .two in
the afternoon the king, accompanied by Abbenooe and moft
of the other principal men of Oneehow and Atoui, came
on board, and brought with them a good quantity of
yams and potatoes. I learned from Abbenooe, that cap-
tain Dixon’s letter was at Wymoa, to which place he
affured me he would fend for it immediately ; prefling me
very hard to remain until the return of the meffenger,
which -he told me would be in about thirty-fix hours.
Judging that I could procure yams fufficient to laft us to
China, I promifed him I would flay ; ; and he accordingly
difpatched a canoe immediately for it, under the care of a
trufty meflenger; and in the mean time we carried on a
very brifk trade for yams and water, which the natives
brought off to the fhip in their canoes; the water in large
calabafhes.. Towards the evening the boats returned on
board, not having purchafed many yams. Abbenooe ob-
r ferving
306
A VOYAGE TO THE
CHAP. ferving one of the people who was jaft returned from fhore
Relea to have only one fhoe on, enquired what was become of
1787,
Saturday 6.
the other; and the man telling him he had loft it in the
furf juft as he got into the boat; my old friend defired him
to point out the place and he would go and look for it 5.
obferving at the fame time, that one fhoe only was of
little ufe. Ff attempted to diffuade him from goihg, as the
evening now came on and the wind blew very frefh, but
all to no purpofe. Abbenooe, bent on going to featehs
for the fhoe, took a ‘canoe that we kept for his ufe, and
paddled away for the beach; and in lefs than an hour oe re+
turned on board, bringing the fhoe ‘and buckle, and was
pleafed to the laft degree that he had been facbebeal in:
his undertaking.
‘My old friend acquainted mie of the Nootka. Testa
failed from this place about a month ago, and captain
Dixon having failed from Atoui about eighteen or twenty
days ago. He gave me to underftand that the Nootka and
them parted on bad terms, but that captain Dixon and
they parted on terins perfedtly friendly. He told me that
they had been fired on by the Nootka, but that no perfon had
been hurt ; he alfo confirmed the account of Ty-e-a-naa’s
having gone off with the Nootka. ‘Towards the evening
the king and moft of the principal people went on
fhore; Abbenooe afd’a few othets rémained on ‘board with
us all night. In the ‘morning ‘began again a brifk trade
for yams and water. At ‘noon a “fieth breeze os the
North Eaft, with open cloudy weather.
Fresiz breezes from Nerth Eaft, with open cloudy
weather. The whole of théefe twenty-four hours employed
4 purchafing
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
53°F
C He CHAP
purchafing yams and water. In the morning I received a © 2 A P.
letter, by the hands of one of. the chiefs, from Mr. Da-
vid Rofs, chief mate of the fnow Nootka; in which
he mentioned their having failed from this ifland on the
5th day of the laftmonth: he likewife informed me that
they left an anchor in Yam Bay, and fuppofed that their
cable was cut by the Indians ; but I fhould rather fuppofe by
the rocks. Some other letters were received by different
people on board from the Nootka, which gave an account
of their having loft an anchor at Mowee, and a large grapnel
at fome other place.
A rresH breeze from the Eaftward, with open cloudy
weather, moft of thefetwenty-four hours. In the evening
bufily employed in purchafing yams and water ; and by
fix o'clock had completed: that bufinefs ; having procured
about twelve tons of yams, a quantity of potatoes, and
filled feven butts and two puncheons of water; at eight
in the morning the meffenger returned from Atoui with
captain Dixon’s letter, which I found dated the 18th of
September; and that he had left the coaft on the oth of
Auguft, all well, and with fifteen hundred fkins. He
likewife informed me, that off King George’s Sound he
fell in with a fhip and floop under Company’s colours; I
fhould fuppofe our Company’s, the fhip called the Prince
of Wales, commanded by a captain Colnett ; the floop’s
name he did not mention; fhe was commanded by a captain
Duncan; and Mr. John Etches was fupercargo. Captain
Colnett informed him that he had juft come out of King
George’s Sound; at which place he had found lying a fhip
under Imperial colours, commanded by captain Barclay, and
Ror 2 manned
nn mene
1787.
Oétober.
Saturday 6.
Sunday 7.
308
AIV.OY AGE OT.0° THE!
c ates P. manned by Englifhmen. He faid nothing of their fuccets,
“——~ or intentions.
Sunday 7.
ImmepraTeLy on the receipt of this letter I began to
heave fhort. About half paft nine we were under way.
We lay-to until near noon ; when, having finifhed a letter
for captain Colnett, or Duncan, or any other commander
belonging to the King George’s Sound company, and de-
livered it to the care of my old friend Abbenooe, we made
fail from the ifland at noon, and fteered to the Weft
by South, intending, after getting clear of ‘Taahoora, and
the fhoal (called by the Indians Modoo-papapa, which
I never faw, but judge from the information I have re-
ceived from different Indians, to lie about Weft South
Weft from Tahoora at a little diftance), to haul to
the Southward as far as 14° or 13° 30° North, as the fafeft
track, until we got the length of the Ladrones.
On quitting our friends thereabouts, I muft do them
the juftice to fay we have ever found them friendly and
ufeful. A man of fome note, named Ta-boo-a-raa-nee,
belonging to Owhyhee, took his paflage with us to this
place, and was received by the king and principal men
with much fatisfaction. I faw a very ftriking likenefs be-
tween him and Ka-nee-na, who was killed at the time
captain Cook fell, and who was always a moft friendly
chief. I inquired if he knew Ka-neé-na; at which he
feemed furprifed, and hefitated for fome time, feemingly
confidering what anfwer he fhould make me; at laft he
informed me that he was his own brother; of which I
had little doubt, from the great refemblance of their fea-
Lee “tures.
NORTH WEST COAST OF. AMERICA. 509g
tures. Ta-boo-a-raa-nee is a well-made, tall, handfome © 34 ”-
fellow ; and from what I could judge of him, had a dif- ——
alas ; 4 1787.
pofition equally good with his unfortunate brother. He ; Oétober.
could fearcely refrain from tears while fpeaking of him, “””
and affured me that to the laft moment of his life he
was our fincere and faithful friend. I afked him if cap-
tain Cook was killed with a pa-ho-a? He told me no;
that he was killed with another weapon ; the point enter-
ing in between the fhoulders, and coming out at his breaft.
And I am certain he was right in his explanation of the
inftrument; for on my fhewing him a pa-ho-a, he faid
that was not it, and hunted about the cabin till he found
a bayonet, and affured me that the Orono was killed with
an inftrument of that kind. And it is very probable it
might be fo, as the natives had got fome from the fhips,
either by ftealth or by trading with the people; and I am-
inclined to believe the man knew, as he informed me, that
he was prefent when captain Cook was killed. He faid
a great number of their people were wounded from the
fire at different times, the greateft part of whom died,
particularly thofe that were wounded in the body ; fuch
as recovered were only wounded in the flefhy parts. He
- told me that the prefent king Co-ma-aa-ma-a and other
chiefs were very much afraid of coming on board; dread-
ing our refenting the fate of our countrymen. He in-
formed me that Pa-reea is the principal chief around Ka-
rakakooa Bay, and is at prefent in great efteem. - He
confirmed the account of old Te-ree-o-boo’s dying a na-
tural death, and being fucceeded by his relation Co-ma-
aa-ma-aa, and that he was much lamented by his fubjects.
Ta-boo-a-raa-nee likewife gave gave me an account of
two veflels having anchored in Karakakooa Bay, where
they
310
CHALE,
XIV.
ees
1787.
October.
Sunday 7.
Ad \N.0:% Ay GE) TO oT yee
they remained five days: He faid they were fhips from
Britania, and in the two had fifteen women and eight
children on board, and defcribed them as European women,
This I looked on as a ftrange account ; and well knowing
that thefe people are very apt toinvent ftories, I gave nocredit
to that part of the account refpecting the women and chil-
dren being on board: the reft might poflibly be true,
though one improbable circumftance rendered the whole
doubtful and fufpicious ; for though there feems to be a kind
of propenfity generally prevailing among thefe people to in-
yent andcontrive reports, with a view to pleafe and oblige, yet
there is another quality which feems the moft predominant
in them of all others, and which is always vifible in thofe
who are vefted with any degree of authority or power, or
are anyways clevated or exalted to a flation fuperior to
their neighbours; for arrogance, infolence, and voracity,
are the diftinguifhing properties by which their inferiors
are taught to dread them, and be awed into the moft
fubmiflive obedience to their commands, however oppo-
fite to their cafe, interefl, or fafety; infomuch that I have |
fecn a confiderable chief at Woahoo {it in his canoe along-
fide, without an article for fale himfelf, and watcha
poor fellow that had perhaps paddled from the oppofite-
fide of the ifland with all his family, and perhaps all their
wer-dly property and fubftance ; fuch as two or three pigs,
a tew plantains, pieces of cloth, and fome bread-fruit ;
and after felling their little cargo, and getting for it a few
bits of iron and fome little trinkets, things (the iron in
particular) that are ineftimable to them ; that greedy and
tyrannical chief hath jumped out of his cance into the
water, {wam to the poor man, and demanded ‘of ‘him
every article which he had feen him receive, which was
inftantly
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
inftantly given up. On thefe occafions I {poke to the king,
who made me underftand that it was warranted by their
eftablifhed cuftom. And after receiving fuch an anfwer,
I was apprehenfive that any further attempts to intercede
on the poor man’s behalf might aggravate the injury to
the fufferers, and be produétive of worfe and more ferious
confequences to him, as well as create fome difguft to me,
for prefuming to call in queftion, or fuggefting the inn
propriety of the rules by which they were governed ; and
therefore I waved the fubjed, and defifted from my pur-
pofe, though urged to it by all the send of pity and
compafiton.
Amonc the variety of occurrences that happened during
our laft vifit to Atoui, the reader may recolleé& the cir-.
eumftance of Pooareare (a meffenger belonging to the king)
obliging an old chief by force to difcover where his trea-
fures were depofited, and afterwards feizing on them as his
own. As we left the ifland foon after that tranfaGion, I
had no opportunity of learning how it terminated ; but
when Abbenooe came on board at Onechow, he informed,
me, that when Taaao heard of the affair, he was fo much dif-
pleafed with the meflenger, that ‘he ordered Pooareare
(although a favourite) to be put to death for the robbery,
and his cruelty to the poor old man. This order was:
executed by a chief named Namaateerae, whofe courage
and aétivity have already been fpoken of.
N AMAATEERAE found the culprit ina village fituated a
little to the Eaftward of Wymoa, where he attacked,
and, after fome refiftance, killed him with a pahoa.
The.
‘312 ; Av tNAO:¥ AGE oo Fr Ou iF HE
cu A ®. The meflenger alfo happened to have a pahoa, but was fo
Sa unequal a match for the warrior, that it was of no ufe to
Odober. him.
Sunday 7.
Tuese inftances ferve to fhew, that though the com-
mon people are plundered at the pleafure of their fupe-
riors, yet the chiefs are not fuffered to affault and rob
each other with impunity.
Most of ind birds met with at the Sandwich Iflands are
already well known. However, I brought a fpecimen of
the white tern home with me; and as I do not find that
it has yet been figured in any Englifh work, I have pro-
cured. a correct drawing of it, from wihenbes the annexed
engraving is taken; and arial Mr. Latham’s permifiion,
have taken the following defcription from the fixth volume
of his Synopfis of Birds, p. 363, where an account of it
is given.
White Tern.—Length thirteen inches, breadth thirty ;
bill flender, black ; eyelids the fame; the general colour
of the plumage white as fnow; but the fhafts of the fea-
pular quills, and tail, except the three outer feathers,
are black ; the tail is forked in fhape, and fhorter than
the wings when clofed by an inch; legs brown; webs
orange; claws black. In fome there is a flight mixture of
browned eae Nene This bird inhabits various places of |
the Southern hemifphere ; having been met with off the
ifland of Saint Helena, the Cape of Good Hope, Be
and many of the iflands of the South oon
7 . F ar *
Wira
Oo fa / / we
PUMPU LAA SD ACP |
7
Mi, Yio Tera form CH,
Vabtishd May 1.1789. by J. Dtockilale ij, Gonleleig
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Wira refpea& to the defcription of the natives of thefe
iflands, I mean their perfons, their houfes, canoes, cuf-
toms, civil, military, and religious, I refer the reader to
the more full account of captains Cook andKing. But one
piece of advice I will venture to give to thofe whofe bufi-
nefs may lead them to thefe iflands, for the purpofe of wa-
tering and refrefhing, is this, that they make the ifland
of Owhyhee, a little to the Southward of the Eaft point,
and run down the South fide of the ifland.. There is no
danger but what fhews itfelf, nor indeed did I perceive
any that lay haif a mile from the fhore, until you come
the length of the South point. There is off that point
a reef that runs off about a mile, which is eafily difco-
vered. by breakers and coloured water. In this run you may
get {mall hogs and vegetables enough for prefent fupply;
and after hauling round the South point, you will begin
to get a fupply of falt, which article cannot be procured
at the Eaftern part of the ifland; I mean not after you get
to the Eaftward and Northward of Karakakooa Bay; and
as you draw towards Karakakooa, you will get a plentiful
fupply of fine hogs, bread-fruit, and fweet potatoes, taro,
fugar-cane, and cocoa-nuts.
Turs ifland is not famous for the fweet root; and be-
tween Karakakooa and the South point you may procure
all the refrefhments the ifland affords, and you may alfo
get the natives to bring off frefh water enough for prefent
ufe. Take care they donot cheat you, by filling their calla-
bafhes with falt water, which they will do, and fell it, if
you are.not careful in tafting: feveral of my people were
cheated this way. And hereabouts is the fituation I would
recommend for falting pork; you will have the openand un-
: confined
313
CHAP,
XIV
Sunday 7.
314
AGIN JO NOAIG IES) (TO ura
cH A? confined air, and at the fame time moderate breezes and
“——~ {fmooth water, which enables the canoes to come off with
1787.
October.
Sunday 7.
Monday 8.
greater care and fafety with their hogs and falt,
From this part I would advife the navigator to run for
the Weft end of Ranai (the bearings and diftanees of thefe
iflands from each other will be found, by confulting the
chart of them in captain Cook’s laft voyage), and from
that point fail directly for the Weft point of Morotoi.
Should night come on, there is anchorage to the North-
ward of the Weft point of Morotoi, fheltered from the
prevailing winds. After leaving this ifland, fail direaly
for the South Eaft point of Woahoo, and on rounding
that point anchor in King George’s Bay. If found ne-
ceflary to flay there any time, it would be advifable to buoy
the cables. At this ifland I would advife the watering and:
wooding bufinefs to be done, not by fending on fhore for
either article, but by encouraging the natives to bring:
them to the vefiel.
To give any further directions refpecting the navigation
amongft thefe iflands would be fuperfluous, as every parti-
cular on that head may be collected from the detail of oc-
currences during our fecond vifit to them. I cannot help
obferving, that I think their fituation and produce may
be productive of material benefit to our new fettlement
at Botany Bay, and at the fame time be a confiderable
faving to government in the articles of provifions, which
may be purchafed here at a trifling expence..
A rresu breeze, with hazy weather, the wind at. Eaft;
the Weft end of Tahoora bore South 15° Eaft, diftant
feven
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
feven or eight leagues, the South head of Oneechow Eaft
about eleven or twelve leagues diftant, and the Northern-
moft part of the ifland in fight North 65° 5° Eaft.
Ar noon a fine gale, with pleafant weather, latitude
ebferved, 21° 26° North, longitude about 161° 56° Welt.
Taking our departure from the ifland of ‘Tahoora, it
lying in the latitude of 21° 43° North, and longitude 160°
24° Weft of Greenwich, variation about 9° Eaft. From
this time to the 4th of November nothing particular oc-
curred.
315
Cc 7 AY Ps
XIV.
Nc ed
1787.
October.
Monday 8.
A rresu gale from the North Eaft, with hazy wea- November.
ther, fteering Weft North Weft half Welt, five knots per
hour. At five in the evening I got a fet of azimuths,
- which gave the variation 7° 54° Eaft; at eight hauled i
the lower fteering-fails. At this time, according to the
fituation given Tinian by captain Cook, Eaft point lati-
tude neareft.14° 55° North, and longitude 213° 45° Weft
of Greenwich, I judged it to bear North 84° Weft, and
diftant eighty-four miles; and as we had a fine brifk gale
from the North Eaft, with clear weather, I determined
to run on all night, hoping to get a fight of the ifland
about daylight, which is between five and fix. At midnight
a fine fteady fix and a half knot gale from the North Eaft.
At two in the morning a feven knot gale, hauled in the top-
maft fteering-fails. Juft at daylight, which was about
half paft five, faw the iflands of Saypan and Tinian,
the North point of Saypan bearing Weft North Weft,
diftant about feven or eight leagues, and the Eaft point of
Tinian bearing South Weft half Weft, diftant eleven or
twelve leagues, the North point of Tinian fhut in with the
Shie South
Sunday 4.
316
An VO ' COAG E OT Be VPAer:
CH AP. South point of Saypan. At this time our latitude, by ac-
—— count, was 15° 16° N oxth, and longitude, from obfervations
Naor aon forward, 213° 16° 30" Weft. The Eaft end of
Sunday 4.
Tinian, according to captain Cook’s chart, fhould then
have bore 55° 00° Weft thirty- feven miles, and ae bearing we
then had of it was 58° oo’ Welt, and as near as I could guefs
diftant about thirty-three tel nA therefore I fhall con-
clude, that the fituation given thofe iflands by captain
Cook is very nearly the truth. We continued to ftand on
to the Weft North Weft half Weft, with a frefh gale from
the North Eaft by North until fix, when we altered the
courfe to Weft, and fet fteering-fails. We ftood in Weft
until feven o’clock, then fteered South Weft by Weft and
South Weft by South, ranging along the Eaft fide of Say-
pan, at the diftance of about two leagues and a half. At
half paft eight, the paflage between Saypan and ‘Tinian
open, fteered for it, and about nine paffed clofe to the
South end of Saypan; immediately to the Weftward of
which point is a good bay, with perfe& {mooth water and
a fine fandy beach, on which there was fcarce any furf. I
did not ftand into the bay, therefore cannot {peak as to
the foundings; but I dare fay the anchorage may be very
good. A little to the Weftward of this bay is another,
which looks well for anchorage. In pafling through this
paflage, which trends about Weft by North and Eaft by
South, diftance from one ifland to the other between two
and three leagues, we obferved no foul grounds lying off.
from either ifland, until we got nearly through; then dif-
cerned a reef lying from the South Weft point of Saypan,
North Weft, diftant about half a mile. Indeed, all the Weft
fide of Sayphan appears to be bounded by a reef running
nearly the fame diftance from the fhore; and from the faid_
South
8
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
South Weft point is a fmall ifland, bearing North half
Weft, diftant three or four leagues ; from which ifland
there isa reef running off in the diredtion of about South
Welt, to the diflance of a league and a half; and there is
alfo a reef running off from this fmall ifland “that feems to
- jon. to ee tals
ri Wa obferved a eeker of white animals grazing on the
ple ns of, Tinian, which we fuppofe to be the white cattle
ie i; ay Anfon. fays: the ifland of Tinian fo much abounds
sis We could not, although within half a mile of Say-
pan, ‘obferve an animal of any kind. Both iflands ap-
pear beyond defcription beautiful, abounding in immenfe
quantities of cocoa-nut and other trees. We could not
pafs fo near thefe beautiful iflands without wifhing very
much to partake of the refrefhments they could fo amply
-furnifh us with, particularly. the frefh beef and acid fruits,
articles to which we have been ftrangers for upwards of
two years: butias through the blefling of God we were all
ine perfedt health, and not being in need of any refrefh-
ments, and fideo a fine f{teady brifk gale, I thought it
moft advifable to pufh. on for China; ey after get-
ting through the paffage, ftood away to the Weft North
Wett,. a a brifk gale at North Eaft by North. And to
the honour of the “King George’s {hip’ s company be it
‘ever remembered, that on this fo tempting an occafion (as
indeed on all others), not a murmur was heard, nor a dif-
contented face feen: From this time to the 1 sth Novem-
ber dete ae in particular to excite the reader’s
i
en » > A FRESH
37
ae
——
Novetibers
Sunday 4.
3a 8
GHB AMP:
XIV.
L.-J
1787.
November.
Thurfday 15.
A.NOYAGEVTOCTA E
A FrresH breeze from the North Eaft, with hazy weather
and a heavy fea from the North Eaft, with which we are
fteering about Weft South Weft, own towards the South
point i the {mall Botel Tobago Xima. About two in the
afternoon we pafied the reef, which runs off its South Eaft
point at the diftance of about half a mile, and then hauled
to the Weft by North, with a fix knot gale at North Eaft.
Thofe iflands I found to lie in the latitude of 21° 52’
North, and longitude of 238° 35° Weft, lying nearly
North and South of each other, with an apparently good
paflage of about two or three miles broad between
them. On the South Weft part of the large ifland
the land appeared to bend in and form a good bay, well
fheltered from the North Eaft winds. We obferved a
little wood, but it appeared to be low and fmall. The
Weltern fide of the large ifland appeared very green and
pleafant, and in many places was laid out in cultivated
plots, and in feveral places along the fhore were towns
ef confiderable extent. We did not attempt to haulin -
for anchorage, but continued to fteer over Weft by North
to make the ifland of Formofa, and at half paft three I faw
it, the South point bearing Weft by North, diftant about
ten or eleven leagues. At four a fine gale at North Eaft,
with which we fteered Weft by North fix knots per hour;
the large Botel Tobago Xima bearing North by Weft half
Weft, and Eaft by North, diftant from the neareft part
ef it Aba four ae et the {mall Botel Tobago Xima
bearing Eaft 74° North, diftant about five leagues. At
five el ed bey i Nortls Welt by Weft, the wind at North
North Eaft, the extremes of Botel Thee Xima. bearing
North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant about five leagues,
and
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
and Eaft by North fix leagues, the South point of Formofa
Weft half South, diftant about eight leagues. At fixa
frefh gale at North North Eaft, with dark cloudy wea-
ther. "We then clofe-reefed the topfails, wore fhip, and
ftood to the Eaftward. At half paft four faw a large
light on the ifles of Botel Tobago Xima, bearing Eaft South
Eaft: wore fhip, and ftood tothe North Weft, the wind
at North Eaft. At midnight a frefh gale, with cloudy wea-
ther. At four in the morning wore fhip, and ftood:to the
Eaft by North; and at half paft five day-light, when we bore
away to the South South Weft, and made fail, fet fteering-
fails. In the courfe of the night we hada current, which fet
us about fix leagues tothe Northward along the coaft of For-
mofa; the South point of which ifland bore South Weft half
South, diftant about five leagues, and the Northernmoft part
of the faid ifland in fight North: by Weft,diftant about twelve
leaoues. Up main-topgallant yard, and et the fail: we were
feering along fhore South South Weft towards the South
point, at. the rate of fix and a half and feven knots per
hour, our diftance from the fhore abreaft about two leagues,
and in running down faw a good appearance of an har-
bour about four or. five leagues to the Northward of the
South point, which feemed to run in in about a South Weft
direction, and between that and the South point feveral
fmall hammock rocks, lying at a little diftance from:the
fhore. The coaft that we run down along might be ap--
proached within three or four miles without any danger.
At half paft:ten paffed around the South point within about
a mile of the fhore. From off this point there is a’reef
runs off about halfa mile. In about a South South Eaft.
direction we faw nothing of the Ville Rete rocks, it being
very thick in their direction, and after pafling the South
EI point,
59
CH A P
XIV.
[2a
87.
Novedhes
Thurfday 15,
320
@ HAT P?
XIV.
el
1787.
November.
Thurfday-15.
Sunday 18.
AS IVAOTDO AY Gs OTIS TU wis
point, we hauled to the Weft, North Welt, at the rate of
fix and feyen knots an hour. Immediately on getting
round the South point, I obferved the land to bend fhort
in to the Northward, and form a very good bay for fhelter
againft the North Eaft-winds, the water in the bay quite
{mooth, and fearce any furf on the beach. I had-an‘in-
tention of anchoring upon this coaft, and would have done
it, had I feen any inhabitants or habitations to have entered
into a traffic with them; but as I faw no appearance of
this part of the land being peopled, I gave up the idea,
and proceeded on towards the coaft of China, with a frefh
gale at North Eaft by North, with frequent gufts from the
land, and dark cloudy weather. At.noon moderate with
unfettled looking weather, the South point of Formofa
bearing Eaft by South, diftant about five leagues, and the
Northernmoft part in fight on the Weftern fide North
Weft one quarter Weft, diftant four leagues. «No obferva-
tion. Latitude account 22° 06’ North, longitude by ac-
count 229° 377, longitude by departure 239° 2’.
THis morning at daylight we were furrounded by a mul -
titude of Chinefe fifhing-veffels or junks; at feven faw the
land through the haze, bearing from North to Weft North
Weft, and at eight faw Pedro Branca, bearing Weft by
North, diftant four or five leagues. A moderate breeze at
North, with very hazy weather, with which we fteered —
Weft by North, about four and a half knots per hour. In
this run from the South point of Formofa, the fhip a-head
of the reckoning nearly eighty miles of longitude. At
half paft nine, feeing a Chinefe veflel fteering down towards
us, we fhortened fail, and brought-to, in hopes of getting
a pilot out of her.. Sent the whale-boat on board her,
which
oe -_—
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
which returned foon after, accompanied by a boat from the
Chinefe veffel, in which came a pilot, with whom I agreed
for his carrying the fhip to Macao for fifty dollars. At half
paft ten filled, and ftood to the Weft North Weft, the wind
at North, athreeknot breeze. At two, hazy weather; founded
in twenty-four fathoms black muddy fandy bottom, Pedro
Blanco bearing North Eaft by North, diftant about four
miles, and the coaft in fight to the North North Weft,
diftant eight or nine leagues. No obfervation; latitude by
account 22° 38 North; longitude by departure 242° 16’
Wet.
_ Lieut winds from the Northward, with hazy weather,
with which we fteered to the Weft North Weft, one knot
fix fathoms per hour, founding from twenty-two to nineteen
fathoms over a bottom of black muddy fand. At four in
the evening the land in fight extended from North by Eaft
to Weft by North, diftant from the neareft part five or fix
leagues, and Pedro Blanco, North 88° Eaft, diftant about
feven leagues. A ftrong tide or current fetting us to the
Weftward, at five founded in feventeen fathoms, black
muddy fand.. At half paft five the Jand extended from
North North Eaft to Weft North Weft, ‘diftant from the
neareft part about five leagues, a {mall ifland lying off
the coaft, bearing North Weft, diftant about four leagues.
Moderate breeze from the North, with hazy weather,
with which we fteered to the Weft North Weft, about two
knots per hour, regular foundings, from nineteen to fe-
venteen fathoms and a half, over a bottom of fine black
muddy fand; at nine.anchored with the beft bower in fe-
venteen fathoms and a half over a bottom of black mudd
fand, the {mall ifland before mentioned bearing North Eaft half
Ppt North,
325
CH A 2.
xIV.
ee, eed
1787.
November.
Sunday 13.
Monday 19,
322
CHAP.
XIV.
_—___,
1787.
November.
Monday 19.
Tuefday zo.
ACY OOF ANGI er Dr gen as
North, about four leagues, the coaft in fight from North
Eaft by North to Weft South Weft, diftant trom the neareft
point four or five leagues. During the night moderate and
variable winds; at fix in the morning a moderate breeze at
North Eaft by North, with which we weighed, and came to
fail; up topgallant yards, and fet the fails, and fteered to the
South Weft by Weft about three knots per hour. At eight
a light breeze at North Eaft, with hazy weather, the
Wefternmoft part of the Grand Lema bearing South Weft by
Weft, diftant fix or feven leagues, the Eafternmoft part of the
coaft or iflands North Eaft half North, about the fame dif-
tance. And the {mall ifland before mentioned, North Eaft
half Eaft, nine or ten leagues diftant, and our diftance
from the neareft fhore four or five leagues. During the
forenoon a brifk breeze at North Eaft, with which we
fteered in Weft South Weft, at the rate of four or five
knots per hour, for the paflage to the Northward of the
Grand Lema, regular founding from fifteen and a half to nine-
teen and a half fathom over a bottom of muddy fand; and
at eleven fqually, hauled in the fteering-fails. At noon a
frefh breeze at North North Eaft, with fqualls, and with
which we fteered Weft South Weft, in the paflage to the
Northward of the Grand Lema fix knots per hour, the
Eaft part of the Grand Lema bearing South Eaft by South
thirteen or fourteen miles, and the Northernmoft land in
fight North Eaft by Eaft, our diftance from an ifland to the
North North Weft about one mile. No obfervation.
A rresu breeze at North North Eaft, with hazy wea-
ther, with which we fteered Weft North Weft four knots
per hour, founded frequently as we run in, and found
depth of water from thirteen to fifteen fathoms over a
6 . muddy
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
muddy bottom. At four in the evening a moderate breeze
at North, with which we ftood to the Weft North Weft half
Weft, Nim knots per hour, almoft furrounded by iflands.
At ret anchored with the beft bower in eight fathoms and
a quarter water, over a bottom of mud; the extremes of
Lanton bearing South Eaft by Eaft a quarter Eaft, and.
South Eaft half Eaft; iflands all round; our diftance from
the neareft {hore about two miles; down topgallant yards.
During the night light and aot winds, with cloudy wea-
ther. “At fix in the morning, with a light breeze from the
Northward, weweighed, founded frequently as we approach-
ed the paflage leading to Macao, and found from eight to fix
fathoms over a muddy bottom. About nine, by borrowing
too near the Southern and Eaftern fhore, we fuddenly fhoaled
our water to three fathoms and a half; but by keeping a
little to the North, we deepened it again to fix fathoms, and
then ftood through the pafflage: a frefh breeze at about:
North Eaft by North, with clear weather. At half paft
ten, the tide of ebb having made, we came to an anchor
with the beft bower in nine fathoms, muddy bottom 3.
the city of Macao bearing North Weft half North, Ayla
about five or fix leagues. At noon a moderate breeze, with.
fair weather; latitude obferved 22° 10° North.
A MopERATE breeze at North, with hazy weather. At
one in the afternoon, the ebb-tide having flacked, we
weighed and ftood towards Macao; and at half paft four
anchored with the beft bower in. four fathoms and.a half,
muddy bottom, in Macao Road, the town bearing Weft
by South, diftance two or three ieee and Lanton Peak
Eaft. At five fent the whale-boat on. fhore to Macao.
At fix in the morning a frefh breeze at North by Weft,
Pe with.
328
CH; Ad P,
XIV.
ere
Nee.
Tuefday 20..-
Wednef. z2:.
324
ConA =P:
: XIV .
Sd
1787.
November.
Wednel, 21.
Bait VO YwA Sain yan tee
with fine weather. Saw lying in the Typa two large thips
under French colours: one of which I found to be a
thirty- -two gun frigate, and the other an armed ftore-fhip :
their deftination, after leaving this, is generally fuppofed
to be to the ifland of arate: where it is believed the
French mean to get a footing.
Axzout feven in the morning the boat returned, having
finifhed her bufinefs. The officer in her brought me a
letter from captain Dixon, informing me of his fafe ar-
_ rival in China; and that in confequence of cargoes being
Thurfday 22.
‘Friday 23.
procured for our two fhips, he had proceeded up to Wam-
poa, where the Nootka was alfo arrived from Prince
William’s Sound, and a fhip called the Imperial Eagle, com-
manded by a captain Berkley, from King George’s Sound ;
Englifh property; under Imperial colours. We heard
of two veflels from India to the North Weft coaft being
miffing; the one commanded by a captain Peters, and
the other by a captain Tipping ; moft likely cut off by
the natives of that coaft. After receiving on board for
the ufe of the thip’s company 257 pounds of frefh beef
and fome vegetables, fent the boat on fhore again to get
a pilot for the fhip to Wampoa.
Licut winds at North by Weft, with pleafant weather;
in the afternoon moored fhip with the kedge anchor; ar-
rived on board nine feamen, late belonging to the fhip
Imperial Eagle, and two late of the Nootka, to take a
paffage to Wampoa,
Moperate breezes from the North North Eaft, with
fair pleafant weather. At feven in the evening the pilot
came
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
3”
came on board. At four in the motning weighed,’ and © #4 ?-
came to fail from Macao towards Wampoa; and at noon
was turning to windward between Macao and Lanton,
Before we left Macao, received on board eleven Lafcars
and four feamen more as paflengers for Wampoa.
A moperaTe breeze from the Eaftward, with fair plea-
fant weather. At one in the afternoon, the flood being
fpent, came-to with the beft bower in ten fathoms water,
loofe fandy bottom: the ifland of Lanton, the Peak,
bearing Eaft by South, and the South weft point of Ma-
coa Weft South Welt. At half paft four weighed and
came to fail; fet fteering-fails. The tide of flood being
expended, at ten came-to with the beft bower in nine
fathoms and a half water, muddy bottom. At feven in
the morning weighed and came to fail. At eight pafled
the Bocco Tigris; and at noon were plying to windward
up Canton river.
Licut breeze from the Eaftward, with pleafant wea-
ther. At two in the afternoon came-to with the bef
weaatet
Nedeuibes
Saturday 24.
Sunday 25.
bower in feven fathoms and a quarter water, muddy bot- -
tom. At the fame time came on board captain Dixon
of the Queen Charlotte: the firft pagoda bearing North
Weft half Weft, four or five leagues. At feven in the
afternoon weighed and came to fail. At eleven came-to
with the beft bower in fix fathoms, two miles below Wam-
poa 5 and at ten in the morning weighed again, and
dropped up to Wampoa, and moored fhip wae both an-
chors in five fathoms water.
Wuist-we lay at Wampoa, our principal bufinefs was
to refit the fhip, and take a cargo of tea on board on ac-
count
326
CMA AE.
XIV.
Ce eed
3787.
November.
. Sunday zs.
AN W/O XCAR GIELG On, ape a
count of the Eaft India Company. An account of the
difpofal of. our furs, and other material incidents, being
given in captain Dixon’s voyage, I refer the reader to
that publication.
Durine this interval, a dangerous mutiny happened on
board the Belvidere, captain Greer, then lying at Wampoa.
A thing of this nature being of the moft dangerous con-.
fequence to a commercial country, I have captain Greer’s
permiffion to publifh the examination of the mutineers
before a court of inquiry; which, together with fome
anecdotes of 'T'yaana, whom I met with at Canton, will be
the fubject of the next chapter.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Od se aati
An Account of a Court of Inquiry held at the Requeft of
Captain Greer, of the Belvidere, on his People who mu-
tinied in his Abfence.—The Court's Determination there-
on, and Punifbment inflicted upon the Mutineers.—Ac-
count of meeting with Tyaana at China.—His Beha-
viour there.—Attention paid him.—Return to his own
Country.— A fhort Defcription of his Perfon.
Wampoa, gth December 1787.
At a Court of Enquiry held on board the Earl Fitz-
william in confequence of the following Letter from
the Council of Supercargoes :
To Captain Fames Dundas, Commander of the Earl Fitz-
william, and fenior Commander.
SIR,
AVING taken into ferious confideration the circum-
ftances of the late riot and mutiny on board the Bel-
videre, and the dreadful confequences that might be ap-
prehended to the honourable Company’s property, and the
general intereft of the nation, in the trade of this place,
were fuch an inftance of licentioufnefs pafled over with-
out due punifhment ; and being of opinion with the com-
manders whom we have confulted on the occafion, that
the
397
@HirAy Be
XV.
ee ee
1787.
December. ©
3e8
ClnPpAyy.
XV.
1787.
December.
A-¥Oe LOR OMe ithe
the infli@ing immediate and fevere corporal chaftifement
on the principal offenders will more effe@tually contribute
to the end propofed, of deterring others from following fo
dangerous an example, than configning them over to the
more dreadful punifhment which they have incurred from
the laws of their country, on account of the diftance
of time which muft neceflarily intervene, and the pro-
bable abfence of thofe on whom we with it to operate as
an example: .
We requeft you will, at fuch.time as fhall be moft con-
venient to you, aflemble the commanders of. the feveral
fhips, to confult and determine on fuch punifhment to be
infliéed on the offenders as fhall appear to you propor-
tioned to their feveral offences, and report to us your
opinion of the fame.
We are,
g 1k,
Your moft obedient humble Servants,
(Signed) Henry Browne.
Joun Harrison, junior.
G. CumMING, junior. ©
Auex. Bruce.
a. ae ts Cua’ Epw? Picovu.
; Henry Lane.
On receiving the foregoing order, made the fignal for
all commanders; read the faid letter; fent for the pri-
foners and- principal evidences on board the Earl Fitz-
william ; and defired them to prepare themfelves for a
court to be held here at eight o'clock next morning.
3 Wampoa,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Wampoa, roth December 1787,
PR JERS. IN Tvs
Captain, JAMES DUNDAS, Prefident.
Aex*® MontTcomery.
_ JosppH Hupparr.
J. H. Dempster.
James-Monro.
Henry CuHurcuILtu.
GeorGe BLacHForD..
W™ HarpcastTLe.
Davip ToLme. a
Georce MILLETT.
RicuarD PENNELL.
WILuiaM STorey.
Puitie Dunpas.
Joun Dennis.
Joun Para.
Cuaries LINDEGREN.
Tue court being met, read the above order from the
council of fupercargoes.
Ca.tep the prifoners, and read the following charge:
You John Berry, Abraham Lilly, Henry Ladfon,
James Keiff, Anthony Garland, Robert Skinner, Thomas
Langford, William Conner, Timothy Kelly, and John
Haftings, not having the fear of God before your eyes,
Uu are
329
CHAP,
XV.
1787.
December.
339
A VOYAGE TO THE:
¢ HAP. are charged with the high crime of mutiny; in firft medi-
“a tating aforethought a defign to infult the officers of the fhip
December. Belvidere, to which you belonged ; and carrying the fame
into execution, by ‘refufing toobey the commanding officer,
by feizing him, beating him, and otherwife ill-ufing him, on
Saturday night the firft of December in this prefent year,
and continuing your mutinous behaviour till Sunday noon,
when you attempted to carry the command of the fhip
Belvidere againft your officers; which: you in fome mea-
fure effected, by turning the guns aft upon them, and
threatening to murder them; by breaking open locks,
and threatening to fire the powder and blow up the thip.
And further, even when affiftance was called from the reft
of the Company’s fhips, for the purpofe of enabling the
officers to refume their command, and procure peace to
fuch of his Majefty’s fubjeéts*as were willing to return to
their duty on board the Belvidere, you wantonly armed
yourfelves with fhot and other dangerous weapons, and
attempted the life of fuch of his Majefty’s fubje@ts as en-
deavoured to fupprefs your -mutinous behaviour ; intreat-
ing and perfuading the reft of the fhip’s company to aflift
you, and threatening to murder them if they did not join
you in this mutiny: but, thank God, the murders that
might have been the confequence were happily prevented
by the immediate affiftance from the commodore.
We are therefore called upon by our honourable matters
to make inquiry into this matter.
Mr. David Dunlop, chief officer of the fhip Belvidere,
called in and examined. Defared him to inform the court
giiik of
Se ts
a ee
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
33%
of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny they © 3,4 ?.
are accufed of ; which he did as followeth :
On Saturday night the firft of December, between ten
and eleven o’clock, I was going to bed, and heard Ladfon,
Keiff, and Conner finging and making a noife on the
gun-deck ; I defired them to leave off and not make fuch
a noife to difturb the people on board the fhip ; to which
Ladfon replied, that he thought it was hard he had not
the liberty of finging a fong. I told him he might go on
the forecaftle and fing till he was tired, but he muft not
fing on the gun-deck. They left off making a noife, and
I went to bed ; in half an hour afterwards was furprifed
to hear them make more noife than before. I turned out,
and defired my fervant to bring mea light ; I went for-
ward to them, and defired them to leave off ; when James
Keiff laid hold of the candle that was in my hand. I
' ~ feized him by the collar, and endeavoured to get the
candle again, when he put the candle out. Iwas very
ill ufed in the dark by Keiff and others: I received {e-
veral blows: there were feveral billets of wood hove. I
then called for lights. The mates who were on board
were foon with me. I held Keiff faft by the hair of the
head; being determined to put him inirons. The people
turned out, and faid he fhould not be put in irons. The
men who made the people turn out were Abraham Lilly,
John Berry, Henry Ladfon, James Keiff, Anthony Gar-
Jand, Robert Skinner, Thomas Langford, and William
Conner. James Keiff was handed upon the quarter-deck,
and while the carpenters were getting the irons, the pri-
foners behaved in a mutinous manner ; and William Con-
ner threatened the fifth mate, Mr. Law, and faid he
Ulu 2 would
(ee
1787.
December.
332 A ACO (ANGE ED cP Oe ae Ons
‘© HAP. would be his butcher. Berry, Lilly, and Ladfon, ap-
“——~ peared at their head near the quarter-deck, and declared
pete. they were on board of amerchantman, and no man fhould be
put inirons or punifhed for any offences whatfoever. The
man James Keiff was put in irons. I defired the people to
goto their hammocks ;’ but they would not quit the deck,
where they remained till between two and three o’clock
on Sunday morning, when they began to drop off ; and
‘I believe by three the deck was clear of them. I then
ordered one of the officers, with two midfhipmen and a
quartermafter, to keep watch; and in cafe of any difturb-
ance to call me. I then went to bed.
On Sunday morning, when the hands were called, the
boatfwain informed me the people refufed to turn out; on
which I went forward among them; telling them the bad
confequence that would attend refufing to do their duty,
and behaving in fuch a mutinous manner, for which I was
convinced they had no caufe.. Upon which they went
and wafhed the decks, and remained very quiet till one
o'clock of the fame day, when they rufhed fuddenly up from
the gun-deck, armed with gunners handfpikes, billets
of wood, marlinfpikes, and double-headed fhot, and rufhed
aft on the quarter-deck, with John Berry and Abraham
Lilly at their head, threatening they would murder any
man who fhould attempt to oppofe their releafing the
prifoner. The fixth mate, Mr. James M‘Culloch, was
knocked down by John Berry with a marlinfpike which he
held in his hand with a lanyard to it. I attempted to ftop
them, but was very near being thrown over-board; I
faved myfelf by getting hold of the lanyard of the fore-
maft main-{hroud. They took the prifoner on the main-
deck,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
deck, knocked off hisitonssand cthtewrthem rower-boar
333
CH AP.
d. Dh hes
Berry then faid the day was their own, and ordered to give ‘gee
three cheers, which they did. I ordered the gunner to December.
hand the arms out of the gun-room, that I might fecure
the ringleaders and take them into cuftody. The people.
then went down on the gun-deck, fecured the ports,
knocked away all the ladders, and pointed the two bow-
guns aft; they alfo broke open the fore-feuttle, and cleared
away a quantity of cordage that was on the magazine
feuttle ; they clapped bolts and the poker into the fire, to
ferve as matches. Being afraid I would come down upon
them, they raifed a report that they had broke open the
magazine and loaded the two bow-guns. Seeing that all
the officers were of opinion that it would be dangerous to
attack them in that fituation, left they might accidentally
or wilfully blow up the fhip, I went forward to the fore-
hatchway on the upper-deck, and defired them to keep
from the magazine. Berry, Lilly, Ladfon, Skinner, and
Garland were the men that {poke to me from the gun-
deck; they faid if any of the officers attempted to come
down on the gun-deck they would certainly murder them,
and fooner than they fhould be taken would blow the fhip
up. Ina few minutes after this, the fecond mate, Mr. Craig,
came on board. Finding that there was no probability
of getting them from the magazine while I remained on
board, I left the fhip ; leaving orders ta the fecond mate
not to let any boats come along-fide, nor let our people
out of the fhip, or fuffer them to have any liquor. I
then went on board the Earl Fitzwilliam, and returned
with Mr. Raitt, on board our fhip, and fent for the third
mate, and ordered him, as foon as all hands were called,
to take poffeffion of the lazaretta, with fix quarter-
matters
334
ALM.O°7¥ AGED OT ONT HE
CHAP. mafters armed, and if any attempted the magazine, to run
er him through. I ordered the gunner, with his two mates,
December. to defend the gun-room, and if any attempt was made,
to fhoot thofe that did. All hands were then called, and
appeared upon the upper-deck, with John Berry and
“Abraham Lilly at their head; and Mr. Raitt and myfelf
endeavoured by fair means for them to deliver up the
ringleaders, which Berry and Lilly abfolutely refufed to
do. Berry faid he would fight all the fhips at Wampoa
fo long as the Belvidere’s fides ftuck together, and would
die to a man before any of them fhould be punifhed. I
found that the boats were advancing; and the people, armed
with fhot, threatened to fink the boats if they attempted
to come. along-fide. I immediately ordered the officers
toarm, and clear the deck of them, and to kill any man
who fhould attempt to throw fhot at the boats. The
upper-deck was immediately cleared ; they jumped down
the fore-hatchway and rufhed to the ama fcuttle. There
was immediately a cry on the gun-deck that they had got
pofieffion of the magazine. While Mr. Raitt and mytfelf
attempted to clear the main-deck, John Berry and John
Haftings were armed with fhot, and threatened to throw
them at us; I went down then on the main-deck by the
main-{cuttle; the firft man I met with was Keiff, whom
I fecured and handed upon the quarter-deck. I believe
in the {pace of five minutes all the prifoners were fecured.
Queftions to the Witnefs.
Abraham Lilly. Was 1 the head man prefent with aL
when Keiff was taken out of irons?
Anfwer. You was.
Lilly.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
335
Lilly, Was I one of the men that anfwered you from © HA P.
the gun-deck ?
Ainfwer. You was.
A,
1787.
weaned.
Lilly. Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut the |
people down to turn out ?
Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was.
Anthony Garland. Was J {een at the fore-hatchway ?
ae wer. Yes. ~
Garland. Was I on the quarter-deck when Keiff was
refcued ?
Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was.
Henry Ladfon. Was ¥ at the fore-hatchway when the
people fpoke to. you from below ?
Anfwer, To the beft of my knowledge you was.
Garland. Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut
the people down to turn out?
Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you. was.
Robert Skinner. Was I one of the fix that threatened to
cut the peeople down to turn out ?
Anfwer. T o the belt of my knowledge you was.
Skinner. Was 1 one A thofe eliaé {poke to you ‘from
the fore-hatch ?
Anfi ver. To the beft of my sities: you was.
Fobu
1787.
December.
A‘VOY AGES Tos ae
Fobn Berry. Was I one of the fix that threatened to
cut the people down to turn out ?.
Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was.
Court. Did you fee or know who thofe men were that
took off the irons and threw them over-board ?
Anfwer. Y cannot fay.
Court. At what hour was it when thofe people fpoke
to you from the fore-hatchway ?
Anfwer. About a quarter paft one o’clock, when the
ports were lafhed in.
Court. Was any officer prefent at the above converfation
at the fore-hatchway ?
Anfwer. Yes, the third and fixth mates.
Court. This witnefs further fays, there are two of the
prifoners, Haftings and Conner, always behaved well till
this affair, and he believes they were led into it by the reft.
Court requefted to know of the prifoners if they
wanted to afk Mr. Dunlop any more queftions ?
Prifoners. No.
Mr. Milliken Craig, fecond officer of the fhip Belvidere,
called in and defired to inform the court of what he
knew refpecting the prifoners and the mutiny.
Ir was near one o'clock on Sunday when I met
captain Clarkfon between the Earl Fitzwilliam and
12 Hilfborough,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
337
Hilfborough. He inquired if captain Greer was in the © 4 AP
boat; he faid not; when he immediately told him there ——
17
was a mutiny in the Belvidere.
Wuen I came on board at one o’clock I found the fhip
in a mutinous flate. The people would not permit boats
to come along-fide; they threatened to fink them with
fhot if they did. I went into the cuddy with Mr. Dunlop
and the reft of the officers of the fhip, to dinner. When
I came out again Mr..Dunlop left the fhip. The orders
that Mr. Dunlop left were, I was to endeavour to keep the
fhip in quietnefs if poflible, and to prevent liquor coming
into the fhip; I was to do nothing elfe till I received
farther orders; the men at that time in a ftate of madnefs
with liquor. When Mr. Dunlop was out of the fhip, all
the mutineers came aft, among whom were the prifoners
now before me; they faid they intended to be obedient to
my command, till fuch time as they faw captain Greer; I
-told them I immediately expected they would. I defired
they would point the guns forward they had pointed aft;
to give up the poffeflion of the magazine, to haul up the
orts, and in every other cafe to put the fhip in order;
which they did. They afked, if Keiff was a free man? I
told them I fhould wait for orders how to a& with him. I
then fent for the gunner, and defired him to fee the maga-
zine and the guns fecured; he reported it was done; the
officers at the fame time were allowed to walk the deck or
any part of the fhip they pleafed. The fhip was perfe@ly
quiet till the note came from the commodore, and alfo
afterwards till Mr. Raitt and Mr. Dunlop came on board:
they then objected to their coming on board, and came
aft in a mutinous manner; upon which I prevented their
2a: obftruct-
December.
238
At VO MOAI@ EU 'T OC TV #
cH AP. obftructing the paflage of the above gentlemen. Mr. Dun-
———~ lop defired all hands to. be called: Mr. Raitt and Mr.
Bethe Dunlop delivered thefe orders fent by the commodore,
which was to deliver up the ringleaders; they all objected
to it, and {wore they would hh ota before they
would’ permit it. Mr. Raitt then pointed out the folly of
ftanding out again{t fo many fhips here ; they faid they
did not care, they would give it red-hot on both fides,
particularly Berry. The attack was then made on the mu-
tineers by the officers on board and in the boats; they
were drove below and taken prifoners.
Queftions from the Court.
What boats were thofe that were prevented from coming
along-fide?
Anfwer. Mr. Temple was in the boat; do not know
what {hip the boat belonged to.
Court. When the people came aft to prevent Mr. Dun-
lop coming into the {hip, who were the men that came for-
ward?
Anfwer. Berry and Lilly.
Court. What did Mr. Dunlop fay to you when you
went in to dinner? Did he mention the circumftance
of the man being taken out of irons, and what fteps he
had taken previous to your coming on board?
Anfwer. Yes. :
Court. When the fhip’s company refufed to give up the
ringleaders, were there any of the men that you particu-
ue ly ob{ fasved to take the lead?
Anfwer.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Anfwer. Yes; Garland, Ladfon, Berry, and Lilly.
Court. When you was going along-fide, did they en-
deavour to prevent you?
Anfwer. No.
Court. When the attack was made on the mutineers,
where was you, and did you obferve any man take a more
active part than another in the mutiny?
Anfwer. Y was on the quarter-deck loading my piftols;
the moft active men were Berry and Lilly.
Court. Was you prefent at the fecuring the whole, or
any part of the prifoners?
Anfwer. I recolle& fending Skinner up the fore hatch-
way. 3
Court. What was his behaviour at the time? did he re-
fift much?
Anfwer. No, he did not.
Captain Greer. When Mr. Dunlop quitted the fhip,
did they demand any terms of you? if fo, what were
they?
— Anfwer. None.
Court. Did you give orders to prevent boats coming
along-fide after Mr. Dunlop left the fhip?
Anfwer. 1 did, not to let boats come along-fide with-
eut my knowledge:
¢
Ke Xp 245 Tue
339
CH A P.
XV.
Ne
1787.
Decem ben.
340
& HAP;
XV.
Re eel
1787.
December.
ALIVAO MAG ED TO? SVE
Tue prifoners were then afked by the court if they had
any queftions to put to the witnefs? They all anfwered,
No, they had none.
Me. Adam Cuniine, third officer of the fhip Belvidere,
called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew
of the prifoners and mutiny.
Ar about half paft ten o’clock of Saturday night, the
aft of December, I heard the chief mate get up and call
for a light, as the people were then finging and making a
riotous noife; I fufpected he meant to go forward and quiet
them. The fifth mate followed them immediately, and
myfelf very foon after. I had at that time no idea the
chief mate would meet with any ill treatment; but by the
time I got forward, was much furprifed to find that James »
Keiff had feized the light out of his hand; and the chief
mate, who had then got Keiff down upon a cheft, was
attempting to retrieve the light, the fifth mate giving him
every affiftance in his power. We dragged Keiff aft into
the fteerage; I then perceived the people meant to make a
general mutiny, there being a.cry from all quarters, Turn
out, turn out; at the fame time a ftool and fome other
things were hove aft amongft us in the fteerage. The
petty officers then interpofing in our favour, we got Keiff
upon the quarter-deck, and put him inirons. The people
were by this time all upon the quarter-deck, and were in-
fifting upon having the prifoner delivered up to them; but
being oppofed by the officers at the break of the quarter-
deck, they did not attempt to force their way aft. Lad-
fon, Conner, and Kelly, being the principal ringleaders,
gave
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
gave the chief mate a great deal of abufe, and even threat-
ened to take the fifth mate’s life. The chief mate beg-
ged they would go to their beds, affured them if they of-
fered to relieve the prifoner, he would inftantly arm and
proceed againft them, reprefented how dreadful the confe-
quences might be, and he would at any time get afliftance
from the other fhips, with which he could with the greateft
eafe fecure every one of them. They ftill continued their
abufe, and even refolved not to quit the deck without the
prifoner ; however, about two o'clock, many of them be-
gan to flip off the deck, and by three there were very few
remaining, and every thing was once more quiet, and re-
mained fo till the next day at noon. Some time after we
had piped to dinner, the chief mate fent for me, told me
he believed the people intended forcibly to relieve the pri-
foner after dinner, and defired I would order all the quar-
ter-mafters to be ready. Before we could get armed, they
all rufhed aft in a body; Berry at the head, who threat-
1 7 7s
December.
ened to knock the firft man down, who came in their way, —
with a marlin {pike which he carried in his hand. We
the officers and petty officers threw ourfelves in before them,
and Berry ftruck the fixth mate on the fhoulder with the
marlin fpike, which brought him to the deck. We found it
impoflible to detain the prifoner, whom the mutineers car-
ried forward, knocked off his irons, and threw them over-
board: then Berry called out, We have got the day, let us
give three cheers; which they accordingly did. ‘They then
went down below, pointed the two bow guns aft, lowered
down the ports, and unfhipped all the ladders. Berry and
Lilly came aft into the fteerage, and gave the officers every
abufe they could think of; they were even heard to fay from
below they would break open the magazine, The boat-
8 fwain
342.
AcNOD YA Gob OF OCA
cH AP. fwain then went down below, to fee if they intended to
aT take fuch a dangerous ftep; they told him they were all
Dueeeiber ready for doing it, and would certainly do it the moment
they were attacked by the officers, which prevented the
chief mate from attacking, as he maven to have done.
Having ordered every body to arms, the chief mate or-
dered me to take the yaul and go on board the Fitzwilliam,
and requeft captain Dundas to give his advice. In the dan-
gerous fituation the fhip was, captain Dundas defired I
would return, and if the chief mate wanted affiftance from
the other fhips, to let him know immediately and he would
fend a boat from every fhip in the fleet. By the time I
returned the fecond mate came along-fide, and the people
feemed inclinable to return to their duty; but in a moft
daring manner came aft, and infifted upon terms which
were not granted them, as they had poffeffion of the gun-
deck and magazine, and we had every reafon to think
from their behaviour when the fecond mate came along-
fide, that they would be perfectly quiet when he was left
commanding officer. The chief mate quitted the fhip in
a fampan, it being his opinion, the fecond mate’s, and my
own, that the ringleaders could be fecured when the people
were in a ftate of “fobriety. It happened as we expected:
the moment the chief mate quitted the fhip, they returned _
to their duty, got the guns in their places when ordered
by the fecond mate, and every thing appeared perfedly
quiet. About three o’clock the Locko’s boat came along-
fide, to know if we wanted any afliftance. The people
let the oficer come on board without any difturbance. He
foon after left the fhip. About four o'clock the chief
mate, and Mr. Raitt the chief mate of the Fitzwilliam,
came on board. The mutineers let the officers come on |
7 board
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 343
board after fome altercation, but ordered the boat to fhove © UA &
off, threatening to flave her if they refufed. The chief —
mate then called me, and ordered me to take fix quarter- December,
mafters down to the lazaretta armed, and defend the ma-
gazine, and to run any man through that fhould attempt
to enter it. I can give no account of what paffed after
this upon the upper-deck and gun-deck, as I did not come
up till moft of the mutineers were feized.
(Signed) A™ CumINE,
December 4, 1787. 3d Mate, Belvidere.
Havine read this to the court, and affirming it as true,
he then proceeds as follows: After I had been fome time
in the lazaretta, they lifted the fcuttle leading to the ma-
gazine, and were going to jump down; being oppofed,
they afterwards laid the {cuttle over again. A little time
after they lifted it off again, and then they faid they were
determined to jump down. I affured them if they did, I
would run the firft man through. Notwithftanding which,
a man (Paterfon) jumped down, and. 1 wounded him.
After him numbers immediately jumped down, firft throw-
ing billets of wood and fhot, and drove me from the laza-
retta. I cannot recolle&t if any of the prifoners were
there.
Court. Do you know who took Keiff off the quarter-
deck, and who knocked his irons off?
Anfwer. Berry and Patterfon.
Court. What were the terms that the people demanded
of the chief mate, and what officers were prefent when
they did fo?
Anfwer.
344
UE UA, PB:
XV.
Ay) WoO.Ya A GAS DOT Bee
Anfwer. They demanded that they fhould have an al-
.——~ lowance of grog, and likewife that Keiff fhould be at
-1787.
December.
liberty. The officers prefent were the chief, the fecond,
fifth and fixth mates, and the witnefs.
Court. Who were the men that afked thofe terms?
Anfwer. Lilly and Garland.
Captain Greer. Did they not demand a midfhipman (Mr.
Clayton) to be turned before the maft?
Anfwer. I heard it called out, but do not know from
whom.
Court. Did it appear to you during the ma that ae
people were in a ftate of intoxication ?
Anfwer. Very tew of them I think.
Court. Do you recollect any of that few that were in
that ftate?
Anfwer. Kelly; none elfe among the prifoners Wie
him.
Court. Do you know the man that threatened the fifth
mate’s life?
Anfwer. Yes; Conner.
Queftions afked by the Prifoners.
ge Berry. Whether he faw me knock the irons off
Keiff ?
Anfwer. The witnefs faw him carry Keiff forward, and
very active about him; but cannot fay who inimediately
knocked them off,
Mr.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
345
Mr. Law, fifth officer of the Belvidere, called in, and © Bee
defired to inform the court of what he knew of the pri- ar
foners and the mutiny.
Art half paft ten o’clock on Saturday night, the 1ft De-
cember, I heard Mr. Dunlop call for a light. I was then
in the great cabin; I followed him, and faw Mr. Dunlop
collar Keiff, and Keiff take the light from Mr. Dunlop.
A {cuffle then enfued. Keiff tore Mr. Dunlop’s fhirt. I
affifted Mr. Dunlop in getting him aft; during the time
a billet of wood was thrown from forward, which ftruck
me on the leg. Conner came aft; I did not know his in-
tentions, and pufhed him forward. Keiff was put in
irons with difficulty. I was laft in coming upon deck,
and turning round, I faw the people affembling a-breaft
the main-maft ; Ladfon, Berry, and Conner, laying down
terms to Mr. Dunlop, and infifting on having Keiff out of
irons. Berry faid, Don’t let us ftand about it, let us take
him out. A long altercation enfued till one in the morn-
ing; they then began to difperfe. An officer was then or-
dered to keep the watch through the night ; during which
in my watch they were quiet. At twelve o’clock the next
day, Sunday the 2d December, the people came up armed,
Berry in particular. With a marline-f{pike they, rufhed aft,
with Berry at their head, and took the prifoner forcibly
out of irons. They then began to make a great difturb-
ance, threatening Mr. Dunlop, and calling him a number
of abufive names, faying, that the {hip was now their own,
and that no man fhould be punifhed without they thought
he deferved it. They barricaded the fhip, and {wore that
no boats fhould come along-fide: all the prifoners and
moft of the people making ufe of thefe or like expreflions.
Y¥o¥ They
1787.
December.
346
A VOYAGE TO THE
C HAP. They handed up fhot upon deck, and got every thing ne-
—— ceflary to keep the boats off in cafe they were boarded.
Destine. Berry and Lilly faid they would die upon deck rather than
give the fhip up.
Court. Did Berry ftrike the fixth mate to ode deck and
at what time?
Anfwer. I cannot fay.
Court. Did you fee any body attempt to puth Mr. Dun-
lop overboard, or did you fee him nearly in that fitu-
ation?
Anfwer. I faw him nearly in that fituation, but faw no
man do it.
Court. In what ftate was the fhip’s company as to fo-:
briety during the Saturday night and Sunday? ‘
Anfwer. Kelly was the only drunken man I faw amongft
them.
William Conner. Did you hear me threaten yout
life?
Anfwer. Only my ears.
Court to the prifoners. Have you any more queftions.
to put to the witnefs?
Prifoners Anfwer. No.
Mr. James M‘Culloch, fixth officer of the fhip Belvi-
dere, called in, and deficta to inform the court i what
he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny.
Upon
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 34.7
Upon the 1ft of December at night, I as ufual put the © #4 ?-
lights out at nine o’clock, and immediately went to bed; —-—~
but before I was long afleep, I was awakened by a noife I December.
heard upon deck. I then got up, and without putting
any other clothes on but my breeches, went upon deck,
and there faw all the foremaft-men together in the waift:
but the man who was then fpokefman was William Con-
ner, who then faid they were all determined to have James
Keiff out of irons that night; and Henry Ladfon, who
declared there fhould nothing prevent them having him to
fleep on the gun-deck that night, and in his own ham-
mock; and John Berry faid, What fignifies talking, let us
one and all go and take him, and fee who dares hinder us.
Robert Skinner and Samuel Walker likewife were refolved
upon relieving the prifoner; as for the reft of the people,
they ftood behind their backs, declaring and fignifying
their approbation of every thing the ringleaders propofed;
however, feeing the officers and petty officers were de-
termined to guard the prifoner all night fooner than
fuffer him to be relieved by them, they wifely went to bed.
However, Mr. Dunlop thought proper to make one officer
keep watch with two midfhipmen and two quarter-matfters ;
the reft turned in, but were ready upon a moment’s warn-
ing to be upon deck; but we had the fatisfa&ion to re-
main quiet for the reft of the night. Next morning the
people got up and wafhed the main-deck without making
any noife; and for my own part I thought the men had
reflected deliberately on their behaviour: but at twelve
o'clock, when the boatfwain and his mates had piped to
dinner, they all of courfe went below, and the fhip’s
fteward as ufual ferved out their grog. But Ido not think
they had time to eat their dinner, when they came upon
Yi 2 deck
348
A WoO) AG Eo TO" "TALE
C HA P. deck with their champion ringleaders at their head, armed:
—— with fads, marlin{fpikes, pump-bolts, handfpikes, crows,.
Decenter, and belaying pins, with John Berry firft encouraging
them, by faying, We will murder the firft bugger that offers.
to oppole us. Mr. Dunlop juft then came out of the cuddy,:
and I myfelf not having time to get either piftols or any
defenfive arms, run in between the mutineers and the pri-
foners. What with the force of them all running upon
me,, and the blow I received from John Berry’s marlin-
fpike, I fell down amongft their feet, and was huftled
forward to the waift before I could recover myfelf; but
upon my getting up, I faw the mutineers breaking the
lock. They then, by order of John Berry, gave three
cheers, he faying they had got the day. They then went
below, unfhipped the ladders, let down all the ports,
pointed the two foremoft guns aft, and handed up the
fhot, and declared, if any violent meafures were propofed,
they would break open the magazine. At that time Mr.
Craig came on board, when Mr. Dunlop and the reft of
the officers agreed to let them alone until fuch time as we
had it in our power to get between them and the maga-
zine, as they feemed to be then quiet. Mr. Dunlop then
called a paflage-boat, and took leave of us, as I imagined,
to go to Canton. At this time the people were quiet, and.
faid they would go to their duty. At half paft three
o’clock the commodore’s boat came along-fide; but before
this, the ringleaders came aft, in a daring manner infifting
upon .terms; and. John Berry, Abraham Lilly, and An-
thony Garland, infifted upon having Mr. Clayton, a mid-
fhipman, eieted before the maft, “that they might have
him to murder; but upon Abrabaas Lilly’s faying fo, John
Berry faid, I ain not take his life; ; I will break one leg
Lee) . and
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
349-
and. one arm; and as for Mr. Law, I will cut one of his © ¥.A P-
ears off. When the commodore’s boat came, Mr. Raitt, ar oP
his chief officer, read a letter, the contents infifting upon December:
the ringleaders being given up; upon which. the muti-
neers put themfelves in a pofture of defence, and fwore
no boats fhould come along-fide. They immediately fome
of them went to break open the magazine, and began
throwing at the boats along-fide and upon the quarter-
deck; but the officers and petty officers being armed, we
made a fally from the quarter-deck, and cut feveral down
with cutlaffes, when they went to the magazine, and found
a warm reception from the third mate, who was then
guarding it with five quarter-mafters. The pinnaces all
got along-fide, we then took all that were on the main-
deck prifoners, went down upon the gun-deck, hauled up
the ports; but before we had that done, feveral were hurt
by fhot hove by the mutineers. However, by five o'clock,
we had-all our foremaft-men prifoners in the cuddy, when
John Berry, Abraham Lilly, Anthony Garland, William
Conner, Robert Skinner, John Haftings, Thomas Lang-
ford, Henry Ladfon, Timothy Kelly, and .James Keitf,
were fent prifoners on board the commodore. Samuel.
Walker, Thomas Paterfon, Oliver Butler, and James:
Brown, were the only men not concerned.
Queftions afked Mr. M‘Cullochi,.
Court. What terms were demanded by the prifoners ?
Anfwer. Anthony Garland infifted upon grog that day
and liberty; he likewife demanded. Mr. Clayton midfhip-
man to be turned before the maft,. becaufe he had on that
day nearly got him a flogging. Abraham Lilly threatened
to»
35°
C.H, A-P.
Xv.
i aie od
1787.
December.
SOMO AGS TO. oTMLEr no
to murder the faid-midfhipman ; John Berry faid:+he would
break one leg and one arm.
Court. Do you know who knocked the irons off
Keiff?
Anfwer. 1 do not know who knocked the lock off the
irons, but I faw Berry and Paterfon throw them over-
board.
Court. Did you hear any of the people threaten to blow
the fhip up?
Anfwer. Yes, but cannot fay who.
Court. Were there any locks broke open to enter the la-
garetta?
Anfwer. The lock of the fore-{fcuttle, but cannot tell
who did it.
Abraham Lilly. Queftion. Did you hear me threaten
Mr. Clayton’s life?
Anfwer. Yes, 1 did; you and Garland.
Court to the Prifoners.
Court. Have you any more queftions to put to the Wit-
nefs?
Prifoners Anfwer. No.
Mr. Chriftopher Spencer, gunner of the fhip Belvidere,
called in, and defired to inform the court of what he
knew of the prifoners and the mutiny.
Queftions
NORTH WEST COAST’ GFOAMERICA, 352.
Queftions. by: the Court. 20: ce HA xf
Court. Where was you when you heard. of the chief mi
mate’s light being taken from him ? ecembers
Anfwer. In the gun-room.
Court. Was you upon deck. van Kei was. put in
irons? |
= Yes.
~ Court. Was there any Pallanes padas or cay) abufive:
language made ufe of, and from whom? |
Anfwer. Ladfon and Conner faid that the man rie ae
not be put in irons without, their going with him.
Court. Was you fent by Mr. Dunlop to fecure the
gun-room, and did any body attempt to break in, and
who?
Anfwer. None.
Court. Were the fhip’s company drunk or fober, or
what fort of ftate were they in on Saturday and Sunday?
Anfwer. A \ittle drunken on Saturday; all fober on
Sunday except Kelly.
Court. Did you receive any orders from Mr. Craig when
Mr. Dunlop left the fhip, and what were they ?
Anfwer. To go down and fee the magazine fecured.
Court. What fituation were the guns in?
Anfwer. They were in their places.
Court.
4352 AD LE MINOW ATG EO CF'02 STEDES 1004
CHAP Court. When Mr. Dunlop left the fhip were the ports
Se down ? | | To. avin
December, 4nfwer. No, they were up.
_—F
Court to the Prifoners.
Court. Have you any queftions'to put to the witnefs ?
Prifoners. None.
Mr. William Froft, Boatfwain of the Belvidere, called
in and ordered to inform the court of what he knew of
_the prifoners and the mutiny.
Queftions by the Court.
Queftion. Did you fee the guns pointed aft on Sunday ?
Anfwer. Yes the two foremoft.
Queftion, Were the ports ever lafhed in?
Anfwer. 1 do not know; but they were lowered down
and hauled up feveral times.
Queftion. What ftate were the fhip’s company in on
Saturday and Sunday ?
Anfwer. On Saturday only Keiff and Payne drunk ;
on Sunday between twelve and two only Kelly that ap-
peared to be drunk to me.
- Relies, Did eu hear any of the people fay they would
ow the fhip up:
Anfwer. 1 heard it, but eannot tell who.
Queftion.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
Queftion. Who appeared to you to be the leading men,
and who was moft a¢tive in the mutiny on Saturday and
Sunday ?
Anfwer. On Saturday night Conner and Ladfon, on
Sunday Berry and Lilly.
Court to the Prifoners. Have you any queftions to put
to the witnefs ?
Prifoners Anfwer. No.
Court to Mr. Dunlop, chief mate.
Queftion. Did the fhip’s company any time on Sunday
afk any terms of you?
Anfwer. They afked if I had releafed Keiff. I an-
fwered, No; that they had done it themfelves. They alfo
demanded Mr. Clayton, midfhipman, to be turned before
the matt.
Mr. Charles Raitt, chief officer of the Earl Fitzwilliam,
called in, and defired to inform the Court of what he
knew of the prifoners and the mutiny.
Queftions by the Court to Mr. Raitt.
Queftion. What ftate did you find the Belvidere in when
you went on board with Mr. Dunlop?
Anfwer. In a very mutinous ftate; and the firft thing
that made me believe they were, was their ordering my
boat to put off inftantly from along-fide.
Queftion. Did you fee them armed to keep any boats off?
Anfwer, Yes; but not at firft.
Zitz Queftion.
353
CH FA.
XV.
ee ee
1787.
December.
(354
CHAP.
XV.
AMY. OY A GAR OT IG TT
Queftion. Did they refufe to give the ringleaders up
See when you told them you came with the commodore’s
seve.
orders ?
Anfwer. They refufed to a man, and faid they would
fooner die. Berry in particular -faid -he would fight ‘the
fhip as long as her fides ftuck together ; took off his cap, —
and gave threeicheers.. ‘When I was telling him the con-
fequence, Ladfon replied, he could only be hanged}; ds
to flogging, he did not mind it.
Queftion.. Did the people feem drunk or fober ?
Anfwer. Perfectly fober and very deliberate. I did not
fee one drunk.
Queftion by Henry Ladfon to the Witnels.
Queftion. I wilh to know where I was when I made that
an{wer ?
Anfwer. On the upper-deck on the chock ftarboard
fide of the deck. When they found the boats coming,
they armed themfelves with round fhot and double-headed
fhot ; called, Stand by and divide yourfelves, the boats are
coming on both fides.
The Prifoners upon their defence.
Fobn Berry, Have you any perfon to ear on your de-
fence, or to {peak to your character ?
Anfiver. No.
Abraham Lilly, Have you any perfon to call on your
defence, or to {peak to your oe ?
Anfwer. No.
It Henry
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
355
Henry Ladfon, Have you any perfon to call on your © #.A P-
defence, or to {peak to your charaéter ?
Anfwer. 1 was not on the fore-hatchway when Mr.
Dunlop {poke from the. upper-deck.
Fames Keif, Wave you any perfon to call on your de-~
fence, or to {peak to your character ?
Anfwer. 1 deny taking the candle from Mr. Dunlop
but to hold it.
Prine Garland, Have you any perfon to call on your
defence, or to fpeak to your character ?
Anfwer. 1 am not guilty of going.on the fore-hatches,
nor with the fhot, nor with taking the man out of irons.
Mr. Donaldfon, Mr. Young, and Mr. Perry, will {peak
to my character. Thofe gentlemen not prefent.
Robert Skinner, Have you any perfon to call on your
defence, or to {peak to your character?
Anfwer. No.
Thomas Langford, Have you any perfon to call on your
defence, or to {peak to your charaéter ?
Anfiver. Can get a character in the fleet.
William Conner, Have you any eh to call in your
defence, or to {peak to your character ?
Anfwer. Says he was in liquor, as an excufe for his
conduct.
Timothy Kelly, Have you any perfon to call in your de-
fence, or to fpeak to your character ?
Anfwer. Pleads drunkennetis.
Lu 2 Fobn
—
D wal Lee
Ae A VOYAGE TO THE
CHAP. %hn Haftings, Have you any perfon to call in your
—— defence, or to {peak to your character ?
December. An/wer. They were running forward with cutlaffes ;
I took up a fhot to defend myfelf. Captain Greer gives
him a good chara¢ter till this mutiny.
Adjourned to Saturday the rs§th inftant at eleven
o'clock in the forenoon.
Saturday, 15th December 1787.
The Court being refumed,
Pia Ee iG ye Ne TE =
Captain, JAMES DUNDAS, Prefident.
ALex® MonTGomMErRyY.
JoszpH Hupparr.
J. H. Dempster.
James Monro.
Henry CuurcuHILL.
Georce BLACHFORD.
W™ HarvcastTLe.
Davip Tome.
Georce MILLETT.
RicuarD PENNELL.
WILLIAM STOREY.
_Puitie Dunpas.
Joun Dennis.
Joun Patna.
Cuaries LINDEGREN.
Tre
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3$7
Tue Court having gone through the evidence, and © #4 ?-
afked the prifoners what they had to fay for themfelves ; ae
it has not appeared that there has been the leaft caufe for Decomaee
murmur amongft the fhip’s company, either for ill ufage
from any one officer or petty officer in the fhip ; that this
daring mutiny has arofe from a {pirit that prevailed, that
they were on board of a merchantman, where, accord~
ing to their own expreflions, they would not meet with
due punifhment; that it alfo appears, that on Sun-
day, the fecond day of the mutiny, the prifoners were all
fober and deliberate but one man, Kelly, and who pleaded
drunkennefs ; the others never attempting any defence of
that fort, or faying any thing in their own vindication,
We therefore are of opinion that this daring mutiny, had
it. not been immediately fuppreffed by about eighteen boats
manned and armed from the Company’s fhips, the con-
fequence might have been dreadful, not only to that thip;
but this fpirit {fpreading to the flect in general, where
there are above three thoufand of his Majefty’s fubjeéts,
the greater number of which might have, by joining the
mutineers, committed depredations againft the inhabitants,
and put a ftop to the Company’s trade, with the lofs of
many lives: We therefore are of opinion, that fevere and.
immediate corporal punifhment be inflicted upon the ring-
leaders ; and that Berry and Lilly at different {hips of the
fleet receive, Berry one hundred, and Lilly feventy lathes;
that the reft be punifhed on board the Belvidere,. and that
Ladfon and Keiff receive fixty lathes; Garland, Skinner,
‘and Conner forty-eight lathes; Ha/ffings and Langford
twenty-four-lafhes ; that Kelly, as leaft culpable, receive
E twelve
358
awe Court.
I 7 7°
December. .
A VOYAGE TO THE
cH AP. twelve lathes, The latter recommended to mercy by the
(Signed)
J. Dunpas.
A. MontTGoMEry.
J. Hupparr.
J. H. Dempster.
James Monro. .
H” CuHurcuILL.
Georce BLAcHFoRD,.
W™ HarvcastTLe.
D°? Tome.
Gero. MILLETT.
Ricn? PenneELL,.
W™ Storey.
Pu. Dunpas.:
Joun DENNIs.
Joun PaIsBa.
Cuar.es LINDEGREN.
Joun Berry and Abraham Lilly, after having the laft:
of their punifhment along-fide of the Belvidere, were
liberated, and taken on board, when they went down
on the gun-deck, and were fpiriting up the feamen to
mutiny again; on which, and being infolent to captain
Greer on the quarter-deck, he ordered them on fhore at
Dones Ifland, with their clothes, &c. which is the ifland
the Englifh are permitted to walk on, and within a cable’s
length of the fhips.
On
fitvats &
ee th #9
A
‘
4
|
IN
Son
YAS
ANS
\ AN
=
SS
S
TSS
TYAAN A
Tilleshd June 27 799.04 jdiock GMardlidirrdg .
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
~ 359
~ On-the Belvidere’s arrival in England, ‘they brought‘an © 34 ?
action. againit. their ‘captain in the court of Common Pleas,
which was tried on the 15th December 1788, before Lord
Loughborough and a fpecial jury, hi a esas was oe
a in od of as Greer.
Bae ve been an ida Menkes in the navy and
on board the’ aw Eatft Indiaman, Sho Johnfon,
ee
. S00N oe my arrival at ¢Gsutam I tookgn Sereaete
of paying a vifit to Mr. Cox, an Englifh gentleman refi-
dent there ; and I was much furprifed to fee my old friend
-“Tyaana, whom the reader may recolle& I met with at
: Atoui, en my fecond vifit to the Sandwich Hands. Ty-
aana immediately recollected-me; and ‘fo fenfibly was he
_affeGed with the interview, that he clafped his arms about
pegs ie
1787.
‘December.-
mein the moft affcéting manner, reclined ‘his head on ©
my fhoulder, tears ran unheeded down his cheeks, and
it was fome time before he became calm and compofed
enough to utter the name of his old acquaintance Popote;
but when the firft tranfports of joy, which fo unexpected
a meeting excited, had a little fubfided, he feemed happy
_in making every enquiry that could pleafe or afford fatif-
faction refpecting his friends at the Sandwich Hlands ; and
“on my enquiring how he came toChina, I found that captain
Mears had touched at Atoui in his paflage from the coaft
of America to China, and Tyaana exprefling a with to
Srey the payee to. Pretane, he had taken ae ‘
oar
350
Aw VY OcY AG &> Teo vWrare
. CH AP board and brought him to Macao; at which place he left
Saar nim An the care of Mr. Rofs, his chief mate, of whom
Beaker! Tyaana was remarkably fond. They remained fome time
at Macao; and Tyaana was generally indulged in walking
about wherever his inclination led him ; and on thefe oc-
cafions he conftantly wore a beautiful feathered cap and
cloak, and carried a {pear in his hand to denote himfelf to
be a perfon of grandeur and diftinétion ; nor did he like
to wear any other drefs, except the maro, which is always
worn by the Sandwich iflanders about the waift: fuch
an appearance however being fcarcely modeft in a civilized
country, Mr. Rofs got a light fattin waiftcoat and a pair of
trowfers made for him, and which he was prevailed with
- to wear, but not without great feeming reluctance at firft,
but with which he was better pleafed after they became
familiar and habitual to him.
Tyaana, though xo profeffed papif?, would frequently
go to the places of divine worfhip at Macao, and always
obferved the manner, motions, and attitudes of the con-
eregation, ftanding or kneeling, and as they did, fo did he,
appearing very {tudious to imitate them, by an exact
conformity to all their ations, geftures, and behaviour.
His noble and generous fpirit vifibly difcovered itfelf on |
various occafions. One time he went up to an orange ftall,
and picking out half a dozen oranges, gave the woman
who fold them a couple of nails for them, which in his
eftimation was a very ample, and indeed a fuperabundant
compenfation for her oranges; nails in his country being
things of very great and precious value; obferving at the
fame time that he had paid her for the oranges and made
her
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
her a prefent befide ;, but the good woman was by no means
fatisfied with fuch payment, and was about to raife a dif-
turbance, by a loud, rude, offenfive clamour of her not
being paid; when fome gentlemen luckily happening to
be with Tyaana at the time, they readily pacified her com-
plaint, by paying her to her fatisfaétion.
Wuen the Queen Charlotte arrived in Macao Roads,
Mr. Rofs and Tyaana often went with captain Dixon to
Wampoa. During this fhort paffage Tyaana often expreffed.
his diflike of the Chinefe, particularly that cuftom of fhut-
ting up and excluding the women from the fight of all
ftrangers. And he feemed likewife to have contracted a
prejudice, as well againft the form, fhape, and manner
of their perfons, as againft their practices and’ cuftoms ;
and carried it even to hatred and antipathy, infomuch
that he was once going to throw the pilot over-board for
fome trivial. matter of offence.
Wuen he arrived at Canton: he was particularly noticed
by the gentlemen of the Englifh factory, from whom he
received invitations, and every mark of civility which could
teftify their ref{pect and regard to his rank and dignity ;
nor was he lefs careffed and admired. by all clafies of people
at Canton.
A caprain Tafker, of the Milford, from Bombay, gave
a. fumptuous entertainment to a number of Englifh gentle-
men, and of courfe Tyaana was among the reft. After
dinner, being upon deck, a number of poor Tartars, in
{mall fampans, were about the fhip afking alms, as is
euftomary there on fuch occafions of entertainment and
a. Be feftivity.
361
CH A P,
XV.
eS ee
1787.
December.
362
CHAE A:P.
XV
See)
1787.
December,
AO iV O WAG EO TT 0e
feftivity. Tyaana immediately enquired what they wanted,
and being told that they were beggars who came to fup-
plicate the refufe of the table, he expreffled great concern,
faying that he was very forry to fee any perfons in want of
food, and that it was quite a new fcene to him; for that
they had no people of that defcription at Atoui;. he
feemed to be under great impatience to procure them
relief, and became a very importunate foliciter on their be-
half. The captain’s generous difpoftion readily co-operated
with his importunities, and he ordered all the broken vidtuals,
being a large quantity, to be brought upon deck, and Tyaana
had the diftribution of it among the poor Tartars, which
he did,’ obferving the moft equal, impartial divifion he
was able to make of it; and his pleafure and fatisfa@ion
in the performance of that tafk were not lefs vifible in his
countenance than his a¢tions.
I asxep him if he was willing to go to Pretane; but
he told me that he expected to have been there in twelve
moons, but that now he fhould be glad to return to Atoui.
It feems captain Mears had engaged in a Portuguefe ex-
pedition to the coaft of America, and promifed to leave
Tyaana at Atoui in ‘his paflage thither. The gentlemen
at Canton, defirous to give him lafting proofs of their
friendfhip and efteem, furnifhed him with whatever could
be ufeful or acceptable; fuch as bulls, cows, fheep, goats,
rabbits, turkies, &c. with oranges, rnangoes, and various
kinds of plants; fo that his fafe arrival with his cargo
would prove of the utmoft value to his country, and an
honourable teftimony to his countrymen of the diftin-
guifhed efteem and regard with which he had been treated,
and
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
363
and his very name revered by all ranks and conditions of © x P,
the people of Canton.
Tyaana is tall; being fix feet two inches in height,
and fo exceedingly well made, that a more perfe& fym-
metry and juft proportion of fhape is rarely to be met with ;
but he is rather inclined to corpulency ; has a pleafing
animated countenance, a fine piercing eye; but the
annexed engraving, which is taken from a painting for
which he fat at Canton, and which was deemed a ftriking
likenefs, will give a more perfect idea of him than can pof-
fibly be conveyed by verbal defcription.
2 A 2
—— - mamas
1737-
December,
OA cs.
XVI.
1788.
February.
Wednel. 6.
A WOW AGEO.T OCT HE
CHAP. XVI.
Leave Macao—Proceed through the Straits of Banca
and Sunda.—Anchor at North Ifland.—The V effels part
Company.— Arrival at Saint Helena.—Departure from
thence.—Five of the People nearly poifoned by eating
Fifo.— Arrival in England.
ON the morning of the 6th of February a frefh
“breeze, with open cloudy weather; latter part
moderate breezes and hazy. At feven in the morn-
ing weighed and came to fail, with an intention of
taking a birth below the fhipping, to be in readinefs for
going down the river immediately on the pilot’s coming
on board. At eight, a rope getting into the tiller rope
block in flays, occafioned the fhip’s touching the ground.
It was very near the pitch of low water, and by the time
we had run out a kedge, and hove taught on the haufer,
fhe floated off. At nine the pilot came on board; em-
ployed failing and warping down the river with a light
breeze from the North Eaft. About noon had got down
nearly to the lower parts of the fhipping, where we an-
chored for a few minutes, and gave the fhip’s company an
opportunity of getting fome dinner; and I have to re-
mark, that Robert Spencer, John Harrifon, and Thomas
Potts, ftole a boat from along-fide the fhip at about eight
or nine in the evening, and abfented themfelves for fome
time; and on my fending Mr. Hayward with another boat
5 shee
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
to look for them, he picked them up near the Bankfhails.
They had been purchafing a quantity of liquor, fufficient to
have kept the fhip’s company ina ftate of drunkennefs
for fome days. Thofe three perfons, fince our arrival at-
Wampoa, either from drunkennefs, or ficknefs occafioned
by it, fcarcely did a week’s duty.
On Thurfday the 7th very light winds from the Eaft
North Eaft, with clofe hazy weather; employed failing
and towing down the river; and at fix in the even-
ing the tide of ebb being done, and not enough wind to
ftem the flood with, we anchored with the {mall bower
anchor in five fathoms, muddy bottom, about three or
four miles below the thipping at Wampoa; Queen Char-
lotte in company. At midnight the wind light and
variable between the North and Weft. At five in the
morning weighed, and came to fail with the ebb, with a light
breeze from the North North Weft, and fine weather; Queen
Charlotte in company. Soon after getting under way, the
wind chopped round to the Eaft South Eaft: employed
turning down the river until ten in the morning, at which
time we anchored in about five fathoms, muddy bottom,
with the {mail bower.
Aut this morning we had light winds from the South
Eaft, with fine weather. At three in the afternoon the
ebb-tide having made ftrong, we weighed and came
to fail, Queen. Charlotte in company. At eight in
the evening came-to with the fmall bower in five
fathoms water, muddy bottom. At fix a breeze at
North North Eaft, weighed and came to fail. At eight
paffed through the Boca Tigris with a fine breeze at i
Welt,
oP
C'fHs AGP.
XVI.
Vt aes
173
Belriceg’
Wednef, 6.
Thurfday 7.
Friday 8.
366
CAHVAY,
XVI.
ee
1788.
February,
Friday 8.
Saturday 9.
Sunday 10.
APO AGE? Orca Te
Weft, with which we were ftanding towards Macao. At
noon a breeze at Weft North Weft, with fine pleafant
weather, a number of Chinefe boats along-fide, with vaft
quantities of oyfters, which we bought very cheap. At nine
in the morning fent the whale-boat on board a fhip at an-
chor. She proved to be the Diana, country fhip, from India
for Wampoa, who had been mifling fome time.
Moperare breeze from the Weft, with fineclear weather.
At two in the afternoon the wind hauled round to the
fouthward. At feven in the evening, the ebb being down,
we anchored with the {mall bower in eight fathoms water,.
muddy bottom. At midnight a moderate breeze at Eaft
South Eaft. At two in the morning a breeze at North
Eaft, and the ebb having made, we weighed and came to
fail. At eight very light airs, and variable. At half paft
eight came-to with the {mall bower in five fathoms water.
At ten a moderate breeze at South. At half paft eleven
weighed and came to fail.
Cam, with fair weather. At two in the afternoon a
light breeze from the Weft by South, ftanding down to-
wards Macao. At five Macao bore North Weft by Weft,
diftant about four leagues, and the Wefternmoft part of
the Grand Ladrone South by Eaft one quarter Eaft,
diftant abcut eight leagues; the ifland of Patoe, which is
a {mall ifland, lying juft to the Weftward of the Grand
Ladrone, bearing South three quarters Eaft, diftant about
feven leagues. A moderate breeze from the South Eaft by
Eaft, with which we were ftanding through between the. |
Patoe and the iflands lying to the Weftward. At half
paft five, hoifted in the whale-boat and fecured her, and
placed
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
placed the Sandwich Iland canoes on the quarter in room
of the whale-boat. At this time the pilot left us ; I fent by
him a letter for Henry Browne Efq. prefident of ane coun-
cil at Canton, fignifying the fituation and good condition
of the King George and Queen Charlotte; alfo a letter of
advice for Mr. John Etches, or the commander of the
Prince of Wales or Princefs Royal, to be delivered on ei-
ther of their arrivals. At half paft feven the breeze having
failed, and the tide fetting to the Weltward, we came-to
with a {mall bower in fix fathoms water, Queen Char-
lotte in company, the Grand Ladrone bearing from South
Eaft half Eaft to South Eaft half South, diftant about five
leagues, the ifland of Patoe South Eaft by Eaft three
leagues. At midnight calm and very hazy. At three in
the morning a light breeze fprung up at North North
Eaft, weighed and made fail, Queen Charlotte in company.
At half an hour after nine in the forenoon the South Eaft
point of the Grand Ladrone bore North Eaft half North,
diftant about twenty-five miles, from whence T took my de-
parture: Grand Ladrone latitude 22° 2° North, longitude
246° 4’.
Tue xrth, rath, and 13th February, for the moft
part fair weather. A number of the fhip’s company ill
with fluxes, and others with fevers, owing (in the opinion
of the furgeon) chiefly to their hard drinking whilft at
Wampoa. On the 12th faw many dark- coledrad culls
and fome boobies, all white except the tips of their
wings, which were black. At half paft feven in the morn-
ing of the 13th fawa fail in the North Eaft quarter ftanding
to the Southward. At nine the ftrange {ail being near
8 enough
ei cayeilg
1788.
February.
Sunday to.
From Sun-
day 10, to
Thurfday £4.
368
Cy yA oP:
XVI.
Se ed
1788.
From Sunday
10, to Thurf-
day 14.
Friday 15.
Saturday 16,
A VOYAGE E:T Oy POE
enough to fee our colours, we hoifted them; the ftranger.
anfwered us by fhewing her’ s, which we took to be Pruffian ; 5
latitude obferved 18° of “ North, latitude account 18° 09°
North, courfe South, 3° oo Welt, diftance from the Grand
iad seine fiity-four miles ; pacientes account 246° o4” Weft,
longitude obfervation 246° 35° 15” Weft, variation 0° o’.
On the 14th inftant fpoke. with the fhip which we had
been within fight of all day, which proved to be a veflel
formerly called the Lowden, Britifh built, and about fif-
teen months ago fitted out in the river Thames, from
whence fhe failed under Imperial colours to King George’s
Sound on the North Weft coaft of America, and from
thence to Macaoin China. She is now called the Impe-
rial Eagle, commanded by captain Berkley, and manned
by Britith fubje&s. She at this time failed under Portu-
guefe colours, and was bound for the Mauritius. Our
people were now all upon the recovery; the Queen. Char-
lotte in company.
On Friday the 15th light winds from Eaft by South.
On the 16th a moderate breeze, with the wind at North.
Eaft; at eleven, judging myfelf pretty near the Macclesfield
fhoal, hove to, and founded with fixty fathoms line; ne:
ground. At midnight founded again with fixty fathoms
line; no ground. At one in the morning a vaft number
of porpoifes about. Between midnight and feven found-
ed every hour without getting ground, fometimes with a
hundred fathoms of line. At feven o'clock, judging my-
felf far enough to the Southward, I altered my courfe
to South Weft by South, with a view of making Pulo
Sapata, the wind at North Eaft, a two knot’ breeze. I
fuppofed,
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fuppofed, from our not ftriking foundings on the Macclef-
field, that it does not -extend fo far to the Weftward as
laid down in.the charts, and that we pafled juft to the
Weftward of the bank. I fuppofed this, from our being
pretty certain of our longitude; having at 2* 30" paft mid-
day got fome very good obfervations of the fun and moon,
the fun Weft of the moon, which gave the longitude at
that time 245° 52° Weft of Greenwich. Saw many birds
of the booby kind. At eight in the morning hailed the
Queen Charlotte. Captain Dixon informed me that his
veffel made fome water when fhe lay along, three inches per
nour; his furgeon and cooper’s mate very ill; our people.
all on the recovery. On the 17th I took my furgeon on
board to give his advice or afliftance, and took with me
about ten or twelve gallons of Port wine for the ue of the
Queen Charlotte’s fick ; faw a few birds of the tern kind, a
number of flying-fifh, and fome dolphins. About the 18th
I found, by comparing our compafies with the Queen
Charlotte’s azimuth compafs, half a point difference, ours
fhewing half a point more to the Southward than her’s did.
I believe the azimuth compafs to be the moft exaé, and
allowed accordingly. At half paft three in the afternoon
I returned on board, hoifted the whale-boat in, and made
fail. Our furgeon was of opinion, that the people on
board the Queen Charlotte were in a fair way of recovery, and
that there was no neceflity of removing them inte this fhip,
as I intended, for the purpofe of having the furgeon’s affift-
ance. Captain Dixon informed me that the Queen Char-
lotte made about three inches of water an hour.. She
foon after leaving the Ladrone made one and two inches,
and as her leak increafed, I thought it right to {tay by her
2, B until
1783,
February.
Saturday 16:
Sunday 17
Monday 18.
37°
CH AP.
XVI.
—-
1788,
February.
“Wednef. 20.
AUR OVE ASE. .cT OO; a TELE
until we faw how it turned out. Pulo Sapata at noon bore
South 51° Weft, diftant 285 miles. Onthe zcth we had frefh
gales withcloudy weather, andthe wind being North by Eaft,
I fteeredSouth Weft half Weft, to avoidthe Vigia rock. Ata
quarter paft ten faw the ifland of Sapata, bearing South
Thurfday 21.
North Eaft, we fteered South Weft half Weft, four knots
Weft one quarter South, diftant about eleven miles, Hauled
to the South South Weft to go to the Eaftward of the.
ifland. A {mall hummock .rock in one with Sapata, bear-
ing from Sapata North Weft by Weft, three quarters Weft,
and diftant from Sapata about three or four miles. This
ifland is perfe&tly bold on the North and Eaft fides, the
South and Weft not fo fafe, owing to the {mall hummock
rock, and a few breakers. It is well named, for it is ex-
actly fhaped like a fhoe, and no perfon can be deceived in
it, for it feems to bear the fame likenefs on all fides, not
a tree or bufh to be feen on it; but there were boobies
in great abundance, the ifland being made white by their
dung.
On the 21ft we fhaped our courfe about South Weft by
Weft, thinking to make Pulo Condore at about five or fix
leagues to the Eaftward of the ifland; fromthence we fteered
for PuloTimoan and PuloCloz. About two in theafternoon
{aw another {mall ifland bearing about North Weit by North,
and diftant about four or fiveleagues. Iimagined this to beone
of the {mall iflands laid down by Dalrymple, lying to the
Weftward of Pulo Sapata. He alfo lays feveral down to the
Eaftward of Sapata; none of which I found to be
there. At three in the afternoon Pulo Sapata bore North
Eaft, diftant eleven miles. With a fine fteady gale at
per
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
per hour; this South Weft half Weft by our compafs
being nearly South Weft by Weft true. On the 22d our
people continued very ill; feveral of them in fluxes. On
25th faw the iflands of Aramba bearing from North
Raft by Eaft to Eaft by North, our diftance from the
North end about eight leagues. At fix Pulo Domer bore
South Eaft.
On the 26th, a light breeze from North North Eaft,
with clofe hazy weather, fteering to the South half Weft,
two knots and a half per hour, foundings from Er olen
to twenty-eight fathoms, over a bottom of dark muddy
fand and forme {mall fhells. At captain Dixon’s requeft,
I fent my furgeon on board to give his afliftance to Mr.
Lowther, furgeen of the Queen Charlotte, who conti-
nued very ill. The Queen Charlotte’s Peruvian bark be-
ing very indifferent, I fent them a fupply of ours, which
was much better. Captain Dixon returned with the boat, and
was alfo much indifpofed with the flux, which was very pre-
valent among us. We faw the land making in feparate {mall
iflands, extending from South South Weft to South Weft
by Weft half Weft, the Southernmoft land the ifland of Pulo
Panfang, and diftant about eight leagues ; Queen Charlotte
in company. Latitude obferved 1° 11° North; light breezes
from North Eaft, with exceeding hot fultry Gullied: On
the 27th the peak of Linging made its appearance through
the haze, bearing Weft North Weft half Welt, I fuppote
twelve or Poalrtoeh leagues diftant. This peak, or rather two
peaks, are very Peraedlcable making very much liketwo glafs-
houfe-chimnies, quite high and clofe together; the North
. Eafternmoft of the two appearing rather rounder at the top
than the other, and of nearly an equal height: at the
3B 2 fame
378
eu ae.
ae
1788.
February.
Friday 22.
Monday 25,
Tuefday 26.
Wednef. 27.
ire
At YN OWN) AVE SEE Oo Ss Free
CHA? fame time the largeft, and I think the moft Eafterly of
— them bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, diftant about
February.
Wednef, 27.
eight or nine leagues; the ifland of Taya South Weft
three quarters Weit, diftant eight or nine leagues, depth
of water eighteen to fifteen fathoms dark grey fand; faw
the clufter of iflands, called the Three Iflands, bearing
South, diftant about five leagues. Inftead of three iflands,
we found iflands and rocks, upwards of a dozen, the largeft
of the clufter of iflands and rocks, and which is nearly
the Northern and Weftern extreme of them, bere from
South South Eaft half Eaft to South by Eaft half Eaft,
diftant three leagues; fome fmall rocks above water lying
a little to the Northward and Weftward of this ifland
South by Weft, Pulo Taya North Weft three quarters
Weit, feven or eight leagues diftant. We run along the.
Welt fide of the clufter Three Iflands, at the diftance of
three or four miles from them in fifteen or-fixteen fathoms
water, over a dark grey fandy bottom. Thefe iflands are
a moderate height, very woody, and appear to be fafe and
bold too; there are fome fandy beaches, which I dare fay af-
ford plenty of turtle, and no appearance of any breakers any
where about the ifles, except at a little diftance from the
points of the fmall rocky ifles. Athalf paft eleven the Queen
Charlotte hoifted her colours half maft high; on this we
fhortened fail, fpoke her, and found her furgeon dead. At
noon clufter Three Hlands bore from North Eaft by Eafthalf
Eaft to South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the neareft
ifland about three leagues; the {mall iflands lying off the
North end of Banca, bearing South South Weft, diftant ten
or twelve leagues, and Pulo Taya about North North
Weft, diftant ten or twelve leagues. I make the Northern
and Weftern extreme of the clufter Three Iflands to lie in
the
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA:
the latitude 1° 4’ South, and longitude from lunar ob-
fervation 254° 34° Weft, and latitude of the South ex-
treme of faid clufter 1° 17’ South, and longitude 254° 28’
Weft. Thofe iflands feem to ftretch in a South by Eaft
and North by Weft direction of the fame {mall rocky iflands,
but may lie a little out of that direétion to the Eaftward
and Weitward.
Tue 29th we had a fine ‘fleady breeze at North North Eaft,
and fteered to South by Welt, four knots and a half perhour,
the depth of water varying as we increafed our diftance
373
CH Ace,
XVI.
—— —_
1788.
February.
Wednef, 27.
Friday z9.
from the clufter Three Iflands, from twelve to twenty-one ©
fathoms. At four the Southernmoft of the clufter Three
Iflands bore North North Eaft three quarters Eaft, diftant
about eight leagues; this bearing and diftance, and Mount
Monopin South half Eaft, diftant about twelve leagues.
This bearing and diftance by me, places the Mount almoft
exactly in the fame fituation that captain King places it in.
We now altered the courfe to South South Weft and South
Weft by South, thinking before dark to get the Mount to
bear about South Eaft by Eaft, or Eaft South Eaft, diftant
fix or feven leagues, as, according to captain King’s ac-
count, with that bearing and diftance, we fhould have been
clear to the. Weftward of the fhoal called Frederic Hen-
dric, and then we could have hauled up for Banca.
Straits; but we could not accomplifh this point before.
dark, therefore I thought it moft prudent to ftand off and
on during the night, and to enter the Straits in the
morning. At fix in the evening Monopin bore South
South Eaft, diftant about eight or nine leagues, and the
point of Banca that forms the Eaftern entrance into the
Straits South three quarters Eaft, ten or eleven leagues; the
10 '. iflands
February
Friday 29.
Saturday.
March 1.
AYVV ON ACR TOT HE
: iflands lying off the North end of Banca Eaft half North,
fix or feven leagues. We had foundings in twenty-one fa~
thoms, dark grey fand. Saw a ftrange fail to the Northward
ftanding to the Southward ; fuddenly fhoaled our water to
thirteen fathoms, ftanding to the North Weft, and at half
paft nine fuddenly fhoaled the water to feven and a half,
foft muddy bottom. This fhoal water I fuppofed to be the
Frederic Hendric fhoal, or a fhoal laid down in Hamilton
Moore’s account, lying near the Sumatra fhore.
A Fine breeze from the North Weft, with rather fqually
weather and fome fhowers of rain, fteering from Eaft by
South to Eaft by North, four knots per hour along the
Banca coaft, at the diftance of about four miles from the
fhore. At half paft twelve, we {hoaled our water to feven fa-
thoms, and there being an appearance of a bank lying to
the Southward of us, hauled up Eaft by North, and juft
run along its. edge in fix and a half and feven fathoms
water, this appearance of a bank on our ftarboard hand,
and the fhore of Banca on our larboard, the Banca fhore
diftant about four miles, and the bank diftant a quarter
of amile. Soon after hauling nearer the Banca fhore, we
deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, and then edged
away again to the South by Eaft. About one I got fight
of fome rocks and a dry white fand-bank, bearing about
Eaft by South half South; we hauled to the Eaft by
North, and paffed between Banca and this fhoal, in never
lefs than feven fathoms water over a fandy bottom. At
half paft one Mount Monopin bore North Weft by North,
and near about the middle of the fhoal South Eaft by
South, our diftance from the Mount about five leagues I
judged, and from the fea-fhore under the Mount about
8 nine
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
nine or ten miles, the fhoal diftant about a mile or a mile
and a half, our depth of water at this time fifteen fa-
thoms fandy bottom. ‘The dry part of the fhoal appears
to be about a quarter of a mile long, trending Eaft and
Weft; it feems narrow; but the aon water appeared
two or three miles to run from the Eaft and Weft ends in
an Eaft and Weft direction. The fhoal I fuppofe to be en-
tirely covered at high water, I think a perfectly fafe paflage
may be made into thofe ftraits, by keeping the Banca
fhore on board, and pafling between it and this fhoal.
Indeed I would prefer it rather than run down on the Su-
matra fhore, where fhould the winds hang Eafterly, it may
prevent a {hip for fome time in entering the Straits. When
we had Monopin Hill bearing North North Eaft half
North, faw a large town on Banca in the fame direction
elofe down to the fea-fide; at the fame time faw four large
proas coming towards this town from towards the Straits
of Malacca, and one going towards the Straits. At two
in the afternoon the tide began to run to the South Eaft
through the Straits at South, a light breeze from the North
Eaft with {mall rain, and Mount Monopin bore North
Weft half Weft, feven or eight leagues diftance, and the
-Northernmoft part of Banca in fight North Weft by Weft
half North, five leagues, and the Northernmoft part of Su-
matra in fight South Weft half Weft. The third point on
the Sumatra fhore bore South South Eaft half Eaft, three or
four leagues diftant,; our diftance from the neareft part of
Banca three leagues ; the Queen Charlotte in company. Saw
a ftrange fail to the North Weft flanding to the Southward.
At noon we had light winds from Weft by North, with
conftant rain, fteering South by Eaft, two miles per hour;
at the fame time ihe fecond point on the Sumatra fhore
Wett
375
CHAP.
XVI.
Nr, ee
1788,
Sunday.
March 2.
¥ hes, ci (ey loll
376°
co HAaATP.S
y XVI.
iA NiO: Y ‘Ay Gek OT Oo IVER
’Wet three quarters'North, diflance about five miles;, and
u~-— Mount Permifang, ‘on the Heard of Banca, North Eaft halt
1788.
March.
Sunday z.
Monday 3.
Raft, diftance about four or fave lcagues.
On the ad March we: paffed by a Dutch thip lying at
anchor. She appeared to be aman of war of tw enty guns.
At four in the afternoon the. firft point on the Sumatra
fhore South Eaft half South, five or fix miles, and the
Southernmoft point of Banca Eaft half South, four or five
leagues; Mount Permifang, on the ifland of Banca, North
Welt fix or feven leagues. Hove-to for the fhip that was _
ftanding after us, and at a quarter paft four we ipcke her,
and found ‘her‘to be the {hip Lanfdown, captain Storey com-
mander, from China, bound to bantiee
On 3d March light winds and very variable, with clcfe
fultry weather. Athalf paftone weighed and ftood over to the
Sumatra fhore; the wind very faint, and a ftrong tide fetting
to the South Raft, which drove us very near the other fhoal,
that lies between the ifland of Lufpura and the firft point
of Sumatra ; at the fame time anchored in five fathoms, a
little to the South Eaft; the Lanfdown anchored in three fa= ~
thoms anda quarter. Soon after a breeze {pringing up from
the North Eaft, we weighed and ftood to the North North
Weft, as did the Queen Charlotte and Lanfdown, to clear the
North point of the above-mentioned fhoal, and at five
we pafled over it in three fathoms water; as did the Queen
Charlotte; the Lanfdown in going over ftruck and ftuck
faft, and made a {:gna! of diftrefs. We immediately anchored
in five fathoms water, muddy bottom; as did the Char-
lotte, and fent our boats with kedge anchors and hawfers
to
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
to their affiftance. “When at anchor, the farft point on the
XV
g
Cc ATP.
I,
Sumatra fhore bore North North Weft about two or three Fe ae
leagues ; the Southernmoft point on the ifland of Sumatra
in fight. At half paft nine the Lanfdown made the
fional for more affiftance ; hoifted out our yaul, and fent
four hands and an officer to their affiftance. At half paft
ten the yaul returned, having got her off without receiv-
ing any damage. From this time to the 8th nothing par-
ticular occurred; when the Lanfdown almoftout of fight.
8
March
Monday 3.
Latitude obferved 4° 50° South; latitude per bearing, and -
diftance of the Sifters, 4° 54° South; longitude per ditto
253° 44 from Greenwich.
7% ‘
On the oth, ftrong gales and fqually weather, with
thunder and fharp lightning : down topgallant-yards and
ftruck the topgallant-mafts. . At midnight frefh gales at
Weft North Weft; loft fight of the Queen Charlotte ;
fuppofe fhe was driven off. At daylight faw the Queen
Charlotte to the Eaftward ; fhe had drove during the gale
about two leagues ; got under way to join us. The roth
a light breeze from the Northward, with cloudy weather.
The Queen Charlotte in company ; the Lanfdown barely
‘in fight. Several a our people ill with fluxes.
On this day at one o’clock in the morning Thomas
Paftord, armourer's mate, departed this life, and at fix
o'clock in the evening was buried, after having read the
ufual funeral fervice over the body. Hoifted out the
whale-boat, and fent her with an officer and fix hands on
fhore, to. look about the reef, by which thefe iflands are
furrounded, for turtle. Latitude obferved 5° 7’ South ;
3 C latitude
Sunday 9g.
Monday 10,
Tuefday 11.
378
CHL A =P.
XVI.
Gere mere
1788.
March.
. Wednef. 12.
"Thurfday 13.
Friday 14.
A VOY AGE? (TO: are es
latitude per bearing, and diftance of the Sifters, 5°:
South; longitude per ditto 253° 50° Welt. ie
On the rath light winds and clear. At three o’clock in
the morning the a Be boat returned without any fuccefs ;
having fear no figns of any turtle, nor any kind of fruit
on fhore; but faw great flocks of wild pigeons.
Cn the rgth light winds and cloudy. Saw lying in the
road two Dutch fhips and three Dutch ketches. Came to
anchor. Soon after an Englifh cutter came along-fide, in
which was Mr. Wood, late commander of the Charlotte
floop packet from the Prefidency of Bombay, with intel-
ligence for any Englifh Company’s fhips from China.
This gentleman had unfortunately loft his packet on a
{mall and near Cracatoo 3 and after getting on fhore,
was attacked and beat off by a country pirate, who, after
plundering her, burnt the veffel down to the water’s edge.
Notwithftanding this gentleman’s misfortunes, he has
been lucky enough in executing his commiflion fo far,
with a boat fpared him from the Lafcelles, captain Balin-
tine; as no one fhip has pafled without being fpoke with
and receiving the intelligence. Before he met with, and
got this cutter from the Lafcelles, he did his bufinefs with
a {mall canoe that he found on the ifland on which his veffel
was loft. :
Ar noon ftanding on towards the roads with a gentle
breeze from the Northward; came to anchor, Queen
Charlotte in company. On the r4th the ifland of Java
extending from South Eaft by Eaft to South, diftant from
? 9 the
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the neareft part of it five or fix leagues. On the 15th the
Lan{down anchored in thefe roads for the purpofe of fll-
ing water. Sent a boat with a party of men to the North
ifle to cut wood; alfo fent our fick people on {hore to take
a walk. Served turtle to the fhip’ s company. On the
16th completed our wooding and watering ; having filled
thirty-feven puncheons, five butts, and one hogthead, and
ot on board one boat-load of wood. This evening hoifted
in the boats, lafhed all our water-cafks, and in every re-
{pect got ae fhip ready for fea. At eight weighed and
came to fail; the Queen Charlotte in company. © From
this time to Lie 26th nothing particular. This day died
John Coppertwaith, pee after experiencing near
two months illnefs of the flux.
From this to the 30th we had frefh Northerly breezes.
This day I brought-to for the Queen Charlotte to come
up. About nine J fent the whale-boat on board the
ueen Charlotte for captain Dixon, and fent our furgeon
to look at their fick, and to make up any medicine he |
thought neceflary, ana leave direétions with them in cafe
of DinebkOOn captain Dixon’s coming on board, we
agreed to part, and each of us to Gee eae of our
way for Saint Helena. At four, the wind at North Eaft,
altered our courfe to South Weft. Captain Dixon took
leave of me, and returned to the Queen Charlotte ; and
our furgeon returned on board. MHoifted in the boat,
and made fail: From this time to the r2th cf June we
had a great deal of bad weather, frequently attended with
heavy rains and thunder and lightning. ‘This day faw
the ifland of Saint Helena bearing Weft by North, diftant
fix or feven leagues. |
3 G 2 mee On
C FiTa +e:
Satarday 15.6
Sunday 16.
Wednef. 26.
Sunday 30.
Pe
Thurfday 12.
380
C HULA 'P.
XVI.
_
38.
une.
Friday 13.
Wednef. 18.
Thurfday 19,
ATMO XAG TOT EE
Own the 13th a brifk breeze at South Eaft, with heavy
weather. At half paft noon fhortened fail and brought-to.
Hoifted out the whale-boat and fent her on fhore with an
officer, to acquaint-the governor of our arrival off the
ifland. At three o’clock the boat returned, with direc-
tions from the governor to come in. Bore away and made
fail for the bay, and at five anchored with the {mall bower
in thirteen fathoms: hand away and moored with the beft
bower to the North Weft in nineteen fathoms, over a bot-
tom of fine black muddy fand; the points of the bay bearing
North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, and South Weft by Weft half
Weft, the town South Eaft by Eaft, our diftance from the
fhore about half a mile. From this time to the eighteenth,
the carpenter with his party employed in repairing the fheath-
ing, cleaning the bottom, and other neceffary repairs ;
others employed in receiving frefh provifions on board,
likewife pitch and tar. The people had leave given them to
go on fhore. Abundance of fine mackrel and bonettas to
be always caught along-fide the fhip. Completed our
water, having got on board thirteen tons and a half.
On the 18th arrived here the Queen Charlotte, all
well; received the governor’s difpatches, and at eleven
unmoored and hove fhort on the beft bower, waiting for a
breeze. On the roth a light breeze from the South Eaft,
with fine weather; weighed- and came to fail; faluted
the garrifon with nine guns, which was returned with an
equal number. Hoifted in the whale-boat and made fail.
At four o'clock in the afternoon St. Helena bore Eaft
South Eaft, and South South Eaft half Eaft, and the Val-
‘ley Town South Eaft; our diftance from the fhore about
twelve or thirteen miles. From this time to the 2 5th mo-
; derate
pe
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
derate breezes from the South Eaft. This day five of my
people, after eating a hearty dinner of bonettas, which had
been caught while at Saint Helena, and falted and hun
up. for fe eer were in about an hour afterwards taken
very ill of a violent pain in the head, an eruption on the
fkin, and every part confiderably fwelled and inflamed ;
thefe alarming appearances in a great meafure fubfided after
their drinking a little {weet oil, and towards the evening
they were all nearly recovered. In confequence of thofe
fith having fuch a poifonous effe&, I ordered all that re-
mained to be thrown over-board.
From this time to the 22d Augutft afforded little variety,
when we made the Ifle of Wight ; and:on the 24th came
to anchor in Margate Roads; the people all in high
{pirits, and rejoiced to fee their native fhore again. I
cannot take leave of my readers without doing juftice to
the tradefmen that fitted us out with provifions; parti-
cularly Mr. Stevens, who fupplied us with the very beft of
every kind ; and Mefirs. Seale and. Waters, a puncheon of
whofe bread I opened in the river, and found it equally
good as when farft put on board.
THE erand object of the Voyage, of which an account
is given in the preceding fheets, being to trade for furs,
with an expectation, no doubt, . of gaining more than
common profits, by an undertaking which at once was
new, hazardous, and uncertain; the world will naturally
enquire whether fuch expectation has been anfwered ; and
more particularly as reports have been induftrioufly propa-
gated to the contrary.
a THAT
Bibbs
17
pes
Wednef, 25.
Auguft.
Friday 22.
Sunday 24.
382
Cc HA P.
XVI.
eel
A VOYAGE TO THE
Tuat the King George’s Sound Company have not ac-
cumulated immenfe fortunes may perhaps be true; but
it is no lefs certain that they are gainers to the amount of
fome thoufands of pounds; and that the voyage did not
anfwer the utmoft extent of their wifhes, undoubtedly
was owing to their own inexperience ; for when the King
George and Queen Charlotte arrived at Canton, and even
a month after that period, prime fea-otter {kins fold from
eighty to ninety dollars each. Of this quantity thefe
fhips had at leaft zwo thoufand on board, befides a large
quantity of furs of inferior value: but though we could
have fold our cargo with eafe, we were not at liberty to
difpofe of one material article ; the fole management of it
being vefted in the hands of the Eaft India Company’s
fupercargoes ; and at length the tkins juft mentioned were
fold for lefs than twenty dollars each.
From this- plain ftlatement of faé?s, the public may at
once perceive that this branch of commerce, fo far from
being a lofing one, is perhaps the moft profitable and
lucrative employ that the enterprifing merchant can pof-
fibly engage in.
AYE 1S ‘T
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
A LIST of PLANTS, BIRDS, ahd FOSSILS,
feen in Cook's River, and which are nearly the fame all
along the Coaft of America.
Pid AN. T'S.
Vaccinium Vitis idza’
Red whortle-berries
Erica
Adoxa mofchatellina
Tuberous mofchatel
Rubus idzus, rafpberry bufh
Fragaria vefca, wood {trawberry
Leantoden taraxicum, common
dandelion
Artemifia vulgaris, mugwort
Ribus Alpinum
Vaccinium myrtillus, bilberries
Gnaphalium dioicum, cat's foot
Erigeron acre, blue fleabane
Archillea millefolium, yarrow
Empetrum nigrum, crow-berries
Lilium Kamtfchatchenfe, or Sa-
vanne
Plantago major, great plantane
Heracleum penaces, or {weet grafs
Veronica
Iris
Angelica fylveftris
Rume acetofa
Alifma plantago aquatica
Ledum palutftre
Arbutus uva urfe
Myrica gale
Rubus chaineemorus
Aconitum napellus
Ranunculus
Aftragalus alope curoides
Polygonum biftorta, fnake-weed
Orchis latifolia
Betula mana
Lupinus luteus
Allium vincale
Imperatoria
Sedum vefticillatum
After
Pinus Canadenfis
Birch alder
Populus alba
Wild role bufhes
Senapis juncea
Aftragalus uralenfis
Aguilegia
Saxifraga nivalis
granulata
Sifymbrium Monenfis
Draba verna
Polypodium vulgare
Convallaria ftellata
Rumex acutus
Rumex aquatic
BERD Ss
383
384
A VOY
BIRDS.
White-headed eagle
bellied lath
~ Crows, ravens, common {wallows
The jay of Steller, black groufe
Black fea pies, with red bills
Kingsfifher of a bluifh colour,
fpeckled with white
Snipes, grey fand piper
Wild geefe and {wans.
Shags, gulls, the razor bill
The little lufk, the common fhear-=
water
Numberlefs brown petrels, terns.
AG E, &e
FOSSILS.
The compofition of the mountains
of a grey granite, mixed with
glimmer and quartz; the firft
ufually black, and the laft pur-
plith !
This is covered with a ftratum of
clay, and above that with a
bed of rich vegetable earth
Sulphur, pelluadum, black lead
Copper ftone of a blue colour
Iron ftone of a black colour
Red oker, cannel coal.
APPENs
TABLES of the ROUTE of the KING GEORGE and
QUEEN CHARLOTTE, the Variation of the Compafs,
and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage.
N. B. In thefe Tables, the Situation of the Ships at Noon is fet down, and the Variation
as obferved fome Time the fame Day.
(ie Atnicge,- -.
From Falkland’s Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Latitude |Longitude| Variation : ,
S Wei. Fait. Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
a ne
]
Foose ee ES oath. Light winds, and fine pleafant
51 36}60 54 j weather. New Ifland S.E.2E. diftant
eight miles.
}N. W. Frefh breezes and cloudy. . No
aeling om land in fight.
12|23 07 | Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy.
54 W.S. W. Frefh breezes, and clear.
Variable. Strong gales and fqually, with
lightning to the S. W. Point St. Julian
N. W.b. W.2W.. Paffed a.very ftrong
rippling fetting to the Northward.
43
(W.b. N.toS.b. E. Strong gales, and
} fqually. A heavy fea.
~
ir ACP OP TEIN) Di ine,
A
‘TT ALB L EI.” Contamded,
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland’s
Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Latitude | Longitude} Variation 1 h and °
ee eee Har | Winds, Weather, and Remarks
|
1786. ° ° ‘ ° en i
Hans 29 ; 55 30| 64 07 S. S. E. to W. N. W. Freth gales, with rain.
53| 63 35 | Weft. Frefh gales, and fqually.
55| 63 39\22 45|S.W.toN.W. Moderate and hazy.
W.N. W. to S. b. E. Light winds, and
08] 64 35/24 00 foggy. Saw feveral penguins.
14| 66 15 Variable. Frefh breezes, with rain.
07| 66 59 Ditto. Frefh gales, and fqually, with rain.
N.N. W. to W.S. W. Strong gales, and
pO ee ace j a heavy fea from the N. W.
271 68 02 Variable. Frefh breezes, with rain.
09] 70 13|26 Weft. Freth gales, and fqually.
F Variable. -Frefh gales, with hail and rain,
Cole 71 1126 sf and a fwell from the S. W. |
S51. ge. O39 |s. S. W. to Eaft. Moderate and cloudy.
Variable. Moderate and cloudy, with a}
14] 74 05/26 | {well from the S.W, Saw a penguin,
a diver, and q quaker bird.
6 S. b. W. to S. W. b. W. Strong breezes,}
09) 75 05/26 48 8} with fleet and fnow. |
371 75.45 S. W. Freth gales, and fqually. |
60. Azl-7s 55 S. W. to W. N. W. Moderate, and cloudy.
i W.N. W. to S.W. Light winds, and|
49| 78 03 cloudy. . |
49} .79 40 | S.W. Moderate, and cloudy.
9 N. W. Moderate and hazy, and a heal
UN ee fea from the N. W.
16| 81 11 Weft. Light winds, and see
Ditto. Freth gales and fqually, with rain. |
ae to W.b. N. Frefh gales and {qually,
and a heavy {well from the weftward.|
Paffed fome fea weed.
Latitude | Longitude Variation
Time. ak
ea ° ‘
Feb. 19, a
Noon. 55 37
20/55 36
21154 27
22154 O4
SHE'S aire
24152 50
25) 55. oa
26153 00
27\52' 21
28152 20
March 1|§2 oo
2/50 22
3/48 36
4147 4!
5\45 58
6/45 30
7\44 20
8/44 51
9144 25
10143 33
Inj43 U5
TA BoL E.!I.% Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland’s
Iflands to the Sandwich Ilands.
A
Wett.
i)
BB RN Daa ee ili
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1
bs N. W. to N.N. W. Strong gales and
t fqually.
ah W. Strong gales, and fqually, and a
heavy fea.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto, with rain.
ie W. Frefh breezes, and‘clear. Cleaned
fhip.
Ee eye, | Variable. Squally, with rain.
; Weft to N. b. W. Strong gales, with rain,
} and a heavy fea from the northward.
N.W. Frefh gales, with rain.
Variable. Strong gales, with rain.
io W. Strong pales and fqually, anda
22
heavy fea from the N, W.
(Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with
rain. Paffed a piece of drift wood.
W.N.W. Frefh breezes, and clear.
Weft. Freth gales, and cloudy.
| Ditto. Ditto, ditto, and fqually.
{ N. W. Frefh gales, and fqually, with
Ash a]
17 32
15
drizzling rain, and a heavy fea from the
weltevard:
; Weft. Freth breezes, and pleafant weather.
Cleaned fhip.
W.N. W. Frefh gales, with rain, and aj
heavy crofs fea.
Weft. Light winds, and hazy.
N. W. Moderate, and hazy.
Weft. Moderate, and cloudy.
Variable. Moderate, and hazy, and a
} fwell from the S. W.
| Variable.
12
Moderate, and cloudy.
Trach Passe
a et é .
Mar. 12, 3 :
Noon. { 42 53
13/43 95
Te vo ard
15/42 14
16/49 53
a7, SOP Ae
18}38 06
19/30 955
20/36 38
OB GS ty
22135 -14
23104 11
24133 29
E5820 490
26131 46
27120 460
28129 20
29/28 oo
30/26 38
30,2597
A
Poe Et NOD. me
Ti Ac BoD E 11. ‘< Cofitinned.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland’s
Iflands to the Sandwich Ilands.
Longitude] Variation
Wett.
83
84.
84
85
85
85
86
87
88
88
83
go
go
gt
93
94
95
96
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
Eaft,
°
15 0o7| Variable. Moderate, and pleafant.
| N. W. Moderate, with foggy weather.
; Variable. Light winds, and ditto, ditto.
} Dante: Frefh breezes, and fqually un-
; fettled weather.
(S. W. to N. W. Freth gales, with drizzling
rain.
| W.S.W. Moderate, and hazy.
- Variable. refth gales, and dark cloudy
5}
12. 06
weather, with a long fwell from the
S. W.
Ditto. Light winds, and hazy, and a heavy
't 37) {well from the S. 8. W.
Variable. Light airs, and pleafant. wea-
{ ther. Saw a whale.
10 23 Ditto. Light winds, and pleafant weather.
| Weft to South. Moderate, and pleafant.
94:19 | Variable. Light winds, and fair.
38 14 Ditto, Moderate, and cloudy.
| Haft. Moderate, and clear.
Ditto. Light winds, and clear, Saw a
=} fail to the N. W. ftanding to the fouth-
ward, but did not {peak her.
10 | Ditto. Moderate and pleafant weather.
Variable. Frefh gale, and pleafant wea-
ther. Saw a tropic bird.
36 | Faft. Freth breezes, and clear.
' Ditto. Freth gales, and clear pleafant wea-
ther. Several tropic birds about the
ihip.
4 32jE.S.E. Freth gales, and clear.
3
NAN N
Se sa
A
PEN Dae v
ToA BoD E.' 1. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland’s
Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Latitude |Longitude} Variation
Eaft,
Time. South. Wett.
Bs: SARE: fa ‘ ; t) s
AgHO4.
anes a8). Te baal Me
2)21 44/102 09
3|20 21/103 39
AlTO} "E7104, 28
§ Ba O7 105 51
6}17 32]106 14
7|17 21/106 40
8|16 48]107 15
gts 57/108 15
1O|1§ o2/108 54
LUCAS WILO9)' 23
P20E2) TBE Os
13|1O: gil1ilo 47
14] 8 38}11I 25
IS} 7 (O4|trb: 59
16] 5 as|1r2.38
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
° ¢
Faft. A freth trade, and pleafant weather.
[
| E.N.E. Moderate and clear.
'Eaft. Ditto, ditto. Saw feveral tropic
birds.
4 19| Variable. Light winds, and hazy.
(Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Saw
} feveral tropic birds.
JN.E. Light winds, and clear.
3 §8|E.N.E. Ditto, ditto, ditto.
long {well from the fouthward. Sawa
land bird flying about the fhip.
N.E._ A fine breeze, and pleafant weather.
Ditto. A light breeze, and clear. Many
tropic birds flying round the fhip.
Eaft. A fine breeze, and clear. Paffed a
turtle. Lowered the boat down; and
upon taking of it up, found it to be a
dead one. Many tropic and men of
war birds about.
E.S.E. 20ln57 Lo Ditto. Very unfettled weather.
Bt 9 Ditto. Moderate and cloudy. Caught five
MAb IS bok | sZt } bonitos, and three fharks.
25,6 «1/117 59 Ditto. Moderate, with rain.
26] 6 34/118 10 S.W. Light winds, and cloudy.
+ Variable. Light winds, with rain, and
27 eT LG sh a
} lightning in the N.E. board.
Variable. Light winds, with thunder and
lightning. Paffed-a turtle. Many dol-
phins and bonitos about. :
N. E. Moderate breezes, and cloudy.
Many dolphins and bonitos about the
fhip.
Variable. Freth breezes, and hazy. Caught
feveral bonitos.
N.N.E. Moderate and cloudy. Caught
a turtle.
N.E. A frefh trade, and pleafant weather.
46} 2 55) Caught fix turtle; fent two of them on
board the Queen Charlotte. Saw a whale.
281 7 30/118 49
—
nl
A> Pi PL EVONG Bi 3s Vii
TABLE I. GContinued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland’s
Iflands to the Sandwich Iilands.
Longitude|Variation 1
eee ie Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
Palath Ni Frefh gales, and cloudy. Caught
ten turtle; fent four of them on board
the Queen Charlotte.
bn. E: Frefh gales, and hazy.
N.E. b. N. Ditto, and cloudy.
N.E. A frefh trade, and hazy.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Paffed feveral turtle.
Caught two of them.
N. E. A frefh gale, and hazy.
Variable. Frefh gales, and hazy.
i Ditto. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy. Cleaned
fhip.
CN. 5 Frefh gale, and hazy. P.M. Being
in the latitude of the Los Majos Ifles,
and about four degrees to the eaftward
of them, hove-to for the night. Paffed
fome fea weed.
aN. E. A frefh trade, and cloudy.
Hove-to for the night. a)
Zaft. A frefh trade, and fqually. We
ftill continue to heave-to for the night.
Ditto. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Hove-
to as ufual. Pailed a large patch of
{ea weed.
E.b.N. A frefh gale,and hazy. Having
paffed directly over the fpot, which the
Spaniards laid them down; and not
feeing any thing of them, ftood on for
the Sandwich Iiles.
Ditto. .Squally, with rain.
N.E. A fine breeze, and clear.
16119 ! 15! Kaft. Ditto, ditto, ditto.
es)
mn - A -
rx
Ny
bed
a a ia a one (ONAN i Re
4
>
Vill Av Pi Ri Ey Na Di Is X
TABLE JI. | Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland’s
Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
' Time.
Latitude | Longitude] Variation °
ea! wh ao Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
M 1786 ° ° a ° Z
A eek 19 58|147 03| 8 17]|Eaft. A fine breeze, and clear.
20/20 02/148 48 N. E. to Eaft. Moderate and cloudy.
21|19..39]150 O1 Ditto, ditto. Ditto and clear.
E.b. N. A freth breeze, and hazy. Saw
a man of war bird.
E.N.E. A frefh gale, and hazy. Many
dolphins about the fhip.
\* b.N. Ditto, and hazy. At noon the
22|f9 Io}151 25) 8 14
23109) FOrs 3°21
24. 19 26)154. 16 N. E. point of Owhyhee bore N. 2 W.
Diftance about three leagues.
fE.N.E. Moderate and hazy. ‘The fouth
point of Owhyhee E. b. S. about nine
miles.
-
“
| Variable, and light. Clofe in fhore.
(Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy. At
F
L
|
one P.M. came-to in Karakakooa Bay,
Owhyhee.
Ay Pi By Ee Na Dr yy % ix
TyA BEL & AT
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte whilft among the
Sandwich Iflands.
Time. | Lavitode Longitude] Variation
Wet. Eat. Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
SS eeeeedioeeetioa
17386. 5
° ‘ °
May 29,
Noon. { 156 06
ani Light breezes andcloudy. The
northernmoft land of Owhyhee in fight,
N. b. E. fix or feven leagues.
From South te E.N.E. A freth breeze,
and clear. The fouth point of the}
ifland of Tahorowa, S. 5S. E. fix or feven
leagues.
( E.N.E, . Frefh gales, and fqually. The
weft point of Morotoi E.S.E. nine or}
ten leagues.
N.E. Freth breezes, and hazy. At anchor
in Woahoo.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto. The wefternmoft point
of Woahoo in fight N. W. 2 W. five
leagues.
Variable. Very light winds. The north
point of Atoui N. W. eight or nine
leagues.
E, b.N. Moderate and hazy. The eaft
point of Atoui E. b. N. five or fix leagues.
E.S.E. Frefh breezes, and clear. At
anchor in Yam Bay, at the ifland of
Oneehow.
30/20 46/156 43] 8 oo
June tj21 16/157 45
SZ aa
621 36
7\20 45
8\2r 57|160 45
in (AA ‘Pee Ha. | heii egen Libs
(B]
Ae Ph Pane Ne DP De Xs
PAA ‘Eb SE A:
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich
: Latitud
Time. North.
Ey Aer Pe
June age Ayre
Noon. 3
15/24 4
16/25 30
17/26 36
18/27 48
19/23 53
2C 3° 05
ijl huis
22/32 04
23133 3°
24/34 18
25) Ene 7/
26136 59
27138 14
28135 51
7390 | BS
30/49 39
fuly, Dae 20
DN. IES
Slee eae
Iflands to ‘Cook’s River.
Longitude ee
wee Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
eapeyeees =e ere
N.E. Moderate and cloudy. The high
160 45 land on the S. W. part of Oneehow
boreS. E. b. 5. 2 E. ten leagues.
“ales sobs N.E. Moderate and clear. Many
4 birds of the tern kind about.
Ditto. Moderate and hazy. Saw many
160 OI
te ee birds. )
161 22/12 b. N. Frefh breezes, and clear.
161 07|13 & Dit. Moderate and cloudy, with rain.
161 og}13 25|Eaft. Ditto, ditto.
156 Pie Moderate and pleafant. Saw three
ieee whales.
160 37 jE. S.E. to S.S.E. Moderate and clear.
160 08 South. Frefh gales, and hazy. =<
Isg 25 Variable. Freth breezes, and fqually.
Leo" oi Ditto. Freth gales, and hazy.
157 49 Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with rain.
156 48 N.W.b. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy.
155 56/15 eae Frefh breezes, and hazy. ;
4 .W.. Frefh breezes, tee cloudy, with a
BS '54 7. aa {well.
g Frefh breezes, and hazy. Saw fe-
spas aS) es feals.
6 W.N.W.. Frefh gales, and thick foggy
TSE 3 A bea Several feals about the fhip.
V.S.W. Moderate and-hazy. Pafled a
E5t al 00 piece of drift wood, and faw feveral
whales.
‘ 9 Ditto. Moderate, with thick foggy wea-
Sieert | ther, and rain at times.
eee eee to W.S. W. A freth gale, and very
ee foggy. Saw three whales.
A
P POE N«Del cx. xi
ETA BG E <1. © Costinueck
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich]
Iflands to Cook’s River.
North. Welt.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
Time Latitude | Longitude] Variation
aie.
July 4;
Noon.
° ‘ °
5|45 311148 45
6i45 59|147 40
7146 111147 08
8147 30/147 32
9149 37\148 11
rolsr 90)148 43
TE Gea TOri4or43
T4155 53)'47 33
{ 45 03/150 OCO}17 OO
Eaft.
—
eee
°o
N.W. Frefh gales, and hazy.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto, ditto. Saw ‘feveral
} whales.
Ditto. A moderate-breeze, and hazy, and
bs a {well from the northward.
| N. W..toSouth. Light winds, and hazy.
of et Freth, gales, and) hazy. Saw
feveral wild ducks.
Wi. Frefh gales, and hazy. Paffed a
ny piece of fea weed, and faw a dlock of
ducks.
S. W. to S.E. Frefh gales, with foggy
and rainy weather. Paffed feveral pieces
of the fea weed, and faw a flock of
divers.
Variable. A frefh gale, andfoggy. Paff=
ed feveral logs of wood, and pieces of
fea weed.
W.N. Ws Moderate and hazy. Paffed
feveral pieces of log wood, fea weed, and
have feen feveral flocks of birds.
Variable. Light winds, with a thick
fog. Pafled “vaft quantities of birds fea-
thers.
Weft to S. b. E. Moderate and foggy.
Pafled feveral pieces of drift wood, and
faw vatt flocks of birds.
S. W. Moderate and hazy. Saw feveral
whales, feals, birds, and pieces of wood,
and fea weed.
|
[B] 2
xii A:@Pp lp Ge Mn. Sp Ar Sf
TABLE II. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich
Iflands to Cook’s River.
Time Latitude | Longitude] Variation
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
North. Wett. Eat.
Be So ce pis Baal ann) Lalita
ee Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy. At 77 A.M.
yy ° 5917 13}|059. 3 ftruck foundings 70 fathoms, light grey
fand, with black {pecks.
Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. At
17/58 23|149 43 ie os oF faw the land bearing N.
18/58 2gjr51 o4 rain. The fouthernmoft land in fight
S. W. twelve or thirteen leagues.
Ditto. Frefh gales, with conftant rain.
The weft point of the BarrenIfles N.N.E.
two leagues.
Eaft, Freth gales, with frequent fqualls,
and conftant rain. At 8; P. M. came
to an anchor in Cook’s River
1g ie Nae)
i
}
‘e ye freth breeze, and hazy, with}
|
Ave Pi) Pie Ek) NG De a ig xiif
TT AYB DE IN:
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook’s
River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time. Bas Lanpitade varitee Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1786. ° ’ ° ‘ ° , |
Variable. Light airs. The extremes of
fai Toate Ree the Barren Ifles §. W. and S. 38° W.
Noon. 39g 0! Cape Elizabeth N. 80 W. five or fix
leagues.
Ditto, Light winds, and hazy.
Ditto. Thick hazy weather.
N. W. b. N. to W.S. W. Light winds,
and hazy. Soundings in 56 fathoms,
mud and fand.
{ots Light winds. Saw the land
14/59 ©g/1sO 11
et Sy an oon Hanes eg?
16159 27/149 19
bearing N. E,2E. diftant about two
leagues.
Ditto. - Light airs, and foggy. At anchor
off the S. W. end of Montague Ifland in
43 fathoms, gravelly bottom.
Variable. Light winds. At 6% P. M.
17/59 48/148 30
19/59 12 weighed, and made fail. The land
N. E. b. N. feven or eight miles.
20/59 00 Faft to N. E. Squally, with rain.
N.E. Freth gales, with thick rainy weather.
Ditto. Ditto. Squally, and a heavy fea
| from the N. E.
Ditto. Strong gales, and cloudy, with rain.
Eaft. Moderate, with drizzling rain.
Duto. Light breezes, and foggy. At
4 P.M. faw Montague Mand, bearing
N. 46° W.
26158 26/146 39 E.N.E, Light winds, and foggy.
27/59 00}146 03/28 10) Variable. Moderate and pleafant.
N.E. Frefh breeze, and cloudy. Saw the
i land bearing W.%N. 11 or 12 miles
28 15/146 O54,
4 i aa
xiv AS- PT PO EVN DY Tay
PAY Ba ES IVS Continued:
Route of the. King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook’s
River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Ilands.
; Latitude | Longitude} Variation | ie
Tinte te | WR ae Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1786. ° - | o y ° ‘
ANE: 299} 58. 18}146 14 | EN. E. Freth gales, with rain.
i Variable. Frefh gales, and fqually, with
UA (sie Ls } drizzling rain at timeb,
31158 30/144 57 Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy.
Sept. 1158 541143 39 Ditto. Frefh breezes, and hazy.
2158 49]142 41 Variable. Moderate, with drizzling rain.
3 78 9 North to S.S.E. Moderate and cloudy.
SRR Dobra. j Saw a fhark.
4158 301140 33 Variable. Light winds, and cloudy.
5|58 16/140 28 Ditto. Ditto, ditto, ditto,.with rain.
6|59 17]|149 03 Ditto. Squally, with rain.
S. E. to N. E. Freth gales, and fqually,
PA Sd 34 139).40 } and a heavy fea from the eaftward.
6157 33/138 39/24 00 | Variable. Frefh gales, and hazy.
5. W. b. S. to S. E. b. E. Moderate and
Y starts cloudy. The land in fight extending
9157 34/137 5 from E.N.E. to N.N.E.SE. A low
point N. E. = E. four or five leagues.
peta Frefh gales, with thick drizzling
rain
Ditto. Strong gales, and thick rainy wea-
ther, and a heavy fea from the S. E.
68 ie Strong gales, and very hazy wea-
ther.
S.E. Frefh gales, and hazy, with rain,
} and a heavy {well from the 5. E.
fS.W. Moderate and hazy. The land in
| pepe The eafternmoft part in fight
4 SE . b. E. t E. and the wefternmoft Ao
| N. W. diftance from the neareft part two
UL leagues.
22|50
2449
AP eR MM) BR,
T AvtBL Ey TV. .Cantinued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook’s
River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Longitude] Variation
Welt.
48|127 0812
Uo
27\127 I
Eatt.
94. 18
OO
|
|
-
i.
|
ua
La
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
ee eee —————s
Variable. Strong gales, and hazy, with rain.
Ditto. Frefh gales, and cloudy.
; Weft, A freth gale, and cloudy.
N.W. A freth gale, with clear pleafant
weather. Saw the land.
Ditto. Frefh gales, and pleafant weather.
The neareft land in fight N.b. E. eleven
leagues.
Ditto. Frefh breezes, and pleafant, with a
long {well from the N. E.
W.N.W. Light winds, and clofe weather.
Saw an ifland bearing from N, E. +E,
to N. E. b. E. + E. diftanee about ” fix
leagues.
N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Woody
Point N. b. W. three leagues, and the
rock lying off the Point N. b. W. 2 W.
two leagues.
N. W.b.W. Moderate and pleafant. ae
land in fight extending:from E. b. S$
W.N. W.= W. diftance from the near
part about four leagues.
Variable. Unfettled weather. P.M. a
canoe with two men in her came off to
the fhip. The north point of King
George’s Sound N. E, fix leagues, and
Breakers Point N. 86° E. ro leagues.
Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy. The
north point of the found N, 63° E, about
fix leagues diftant.
AP APP ET Oe By i ae
T A BoL EvIV.. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook’s
River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time. | "ie
eae ae
Sept. 26 ‘
Neoaes 19273 %
27/49 33
28/49 32
29/49 12
30147 55
Ot. 1147 53
2\46 48
3/45 40
4/44. 07
5|44 06
6/43 08
7\43 06
8142 33
g|4t 49
I0o|40 32
a Oa ot
12/38 44
Longitude | Variation
we at Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
—
— ee
o < °
lightning, and rain. Carried away both
clews of our forefail. ‘The land in fight
es
(Variable. Heavy gales, with thunder,
Py ak hy
,__ bearing N. b. W. 4 W. five or fix leagues.
(Ditto. Squally unfettled weather, with
| frequent fhowers of hail and rain, and a
£ heavy fwell from the 8. W. The north
| point of the entrance into the found
. E.N.E. fix or feven leagues.
Ditto. Moderate, with rain, The north
127) Tit 1 point of the entrance N. 65° E. five
leagues.
4 N. W. A freth gale, and cloudy. The
128 o7|22 309) entrance of the found N. 38° E. 15
leagues diftance.
Sb. E. Light airs and hazy, with a heavy
pan 18 fwell from the N. W. Cleaned ship.
W.N.W. Frefh gales, and cloudy. A
Poa head fea.
131 06/19 oo| Variable. Moderate and clear.
131 06 Weft.. Moderate and foggy.
TIS 7 1W.b.N.to N.N.E. Ditto, ditto.
132 42/19 27| Variable. Light winds, and cloudy.
132 42 Ditto. Freth breezes, and cloudy.
1335 17 ; Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually.
ap A 5S. W. Squally, with lightning and rain,
32) a j and a heavy {well from the S. W.
132 58 Ditto. © Squally, with rain.
13 30 | Weft. Frefh gales, and cloudy. :
133 12 ‘Variable. Frefh gales, and fqually, with
miss a long {well from the S. W.
133 16 | Ditto. Frefh gales, with rain.
ThAmB gi jE VY.
AXPT PA EVN D4 1 4X. XViL
Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook’s
River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iilands.
Time. -
North. Welt. Batt.
7st aii gaan Mama 5g P art
hea t 37. O9/133°45 N: W.b. W.. Freth gales, and pleafant.
r4lqo° 24lrag: 16 Liane. Light winds, and cloudy. Caught
a fhark.
15135 59/134 50 1S. E.b. S. Light winds, and cloudy,
3 South. Moderate, and cloudy. Many
Bol siemens ale } tropic birds about.
EAS eh 5 5 Loe OF Variable. Moderate, and cloudy.
18/34 08/135 41 North. Ditto, ditto.
i Variable. Frefh breezes, and clear. Tropic}.
19/34 26/136 22/11 7} birds and flying fifh about.
4 S.b. E» Frefh breezes, and cloudy, with
Es aa ae la | a {well from the Southward.
Pe Tile abies 1 aie A frefh gale, and hazy. Saw
mines) Paid | ~fome tropic birds.
ae Ditto. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Caught}
PBN OOU IAS |. 54 ; a dolphin.
S.S.E. Moderate and cloudy, with fogs
ceo SARE 34 at times.
He 5 S. kK. Moderate and hazy, with rain at
weil Re eR times.
S.S.E. A frefh breeze, with open cloudy
Pelee erii42 1 weather. Caught a dolphin. Many
tropic birds about.
26/32 36)143 35 S. E. b. S.A frefh breeze, and hazy.
27|32 24\144 19/11 4618.5, E. Moderate, and hazy.
, Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Cleaned
28/32 o8|145 oO1 } ie
29/31 05;145 2 jE.S.E. A frefh gale, and cloudy.
ss) 6 > i E. A frefh gale, and fqually. Sawa
DO | er aed eg ee whale. .
3129 041147 56 | Ditto. A frefh breeze, and hazy.
Latitude | Longitude] Variation
| ' Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
[C]
XVill AY“ PEPE CNA DT Tis
TABLE IV. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook’s
River, along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Latitude | Longitude] Variation
Eaft.
5 : T ee
mee neeck! ae Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1786 Cae Nth oo BNNs
ov. I, ‘ Eaft. Moderateand cloudy. A {well from
as na) tera 52 09} the S. E. ‘
2i27° 15) 148-56 | E.b.S. Frefh breezes, and cloudy.
3126 021149 36 Variable. Squally unfettled weather.
4|24 S5A4]150 02 Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
Flea ZOMGONTS Variable. Light winds, and nlcalakn wreaaber
6}24 02/150 20 | Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy.
6 © E.S.E. Moderate and cloudy. Saw fome
7173 45/15208 } land birds. Many tropic birds about.
8 On Soy 5G Variable. Unfettled weather.
Q|22 471151 OO} | Ditto. Strong gales and hazy, with rain.
28 ‘Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with
tela eae j lightning and heavy rain.
rr|22 30l\r1sr oF | Ditto. Frefh breezes, with rain.
SITAR ALES (N.b.E. Moderate and pleafant. Caught
* Ba Says j a fhark.
mal 201/ 22) |ne 20 N.N.E. Ditto, ditto.
14|20 04/153 47 E.S.E.. Light winds, and hazy.
Eaft. Ditto, ditto, ditto. Saw the land
} bearing S. W. + W. 12 or 13 leagues.
16|20 12/155 42 | E.S.E. Moderate. Clofe in fhore.
Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Stand-
ing along fhore,
| Pine Moderate and pleafant. Diftance
off fhore about three miles.
ie Strong gales, and cloudy. The
S. W. end of Owhyhee fouth. Light-
ning and rain.
S. W. Frefh gales, with heavy rains. P. Ms
hove-to for a canoe with three men in.
Hoifted her up, and took the men on
board, they being very much fatigued.
Ay PP, Py EB, N, BD. ky X xix
T A B-L E IV. « Continued.
Route of the King George and’ Queen Charlotte: from Cook’s
River, along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Ilands.
Time. yee
1786. + S b.
at gris
Noon, 3
22/21 07
23/20 -32
24had S29
25\21 49
26}21 95
BON, in 2
26)25 17
29 4 26
30/21 © 20
Longitude] Variation
Welt. Eat. -
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
|
——
“(W.S.W. Freth breezes, and fqually.
Mowee extending from §.S.E2E. to
_S. W. 25S. diftance five leagues.
Bean E. ‘Light winds, and pleafant. The
{ welt end of Mowee W.S. W.
| sic Light winds, and pleafant. The
extremes ae Mowiot S.+ E. and S. W.
diftant from the neareft part fix leagues.
S.b. W. A freth gale, and dovdy- The
eaft end of Monee S.|b. E. = BE.
; Variable. Light winds, and hazy. ~The
eaft point of Mowee §. = E, five leagues.
S.b. W. A frefh breeze, nad clear. The
eaft point of Mowee S.5S.E. 2 E.
S.S.W. Moderate and clear. The ex-
{* tremesof Morotoi S.b. W. + W. andS. W.
= W. fix or feven leagues diftance.
Wee eile: Light breezes, and fine. The!
eaft point of Morotoi S. W: = S.
if b. N. Light airs, and hazy. The|
j
Ly
ifland of Woahoo in fight bearing from |
1 W.S. W.% W. to Welt.
A E. A freth breeze, and hazy. The
fouth point of MMorotoi S. E.
\" E. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. At}
five P. M. anchored in the bay in the
fouth end of Woahoo in nine fathoms.
N. B, From this to the 15th of March 1787,
the veflels were at anchor, and off the}
iflands of Woahoo, Atoui, and Oneehow. |
\
ey es
XX AP? EP tee IN, eo: a
A tle es
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the
Sandwich Iflands to Prince William’s Sound.
Time mea, ree ee - Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
—s | ee ——S ed
1787. ° s ° 77 oO
Mar.15, weather. The N.E. point of Atoui bore
Noon. { Pageto WTS N. W. 2 W. and the wefternmoft point
in fight W.b.N.
S.S.E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy.
South to W. b. N. Frefh breezes, and
cloudy, with rain.
16]22 4olrs8 35
‘ “ E.b.E. Moderate breeze, and pleafant
|
17/24 24/158 13 }
Variable. Strong gales, with heavy rain
and thunder and lightning, anda heavy
fea from the fouthward.
S.S. W. Frefh breezes, and fqually with
rain.
S.W. Moderate, and hazy, with rain.
N. E.b.N. Light winds and hazy, and
a {well from the N. W.
North. Moderate, and clear.
N. E. Light winds and cloudy, and a {well
|
:
23/29 26/159 co j from the weftward.
|
}
|
i
18}/26 o2}157 52
19/27 231157 47
20/28 47/157 47
21/28 561157 50
22/29 12/158 30
24/38 25/159 13 Faft. Freth gales, with drizzling rain.
25132 58/159 O1 S. E. Freth gales, with cloudy weather.
S.S.E, Freth gales, with thick hazy wea-
26/85 O4fts8 12 ther.
27136 02/158 08
251g7 20\\1 57° 02
29138 38/155 55
39139 35/154 18
33139 25|153 45
April 1/40 16/152 56
S.S.W. Frefh breezes, and hazy.
Ditto, ditto, and clear.
S.S. W. A frefh breeze, and clear.
N. W. b. N. Strong gales and fqually,
with fhowers of hail.
N.N.W. Strong gales, and hazy.
5.5. E. A ftrong gale ang cloudy, anda
heavy {well fram the N.N. W.
South. Frefh gales and fqually, with
9142 I7}152 OL
4 yest) rain.
Latitude | Longitude} Variation
Eaft.
Aye AP VaR) AN} oD. BX
XXl
TABLE V. ~ Continued,
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the
Sandwich Iflands to Prince William’s Sound.
Times | North. | wet.
"1787. ‘ ° E ° ;
April 3,
AHS tag sal 150 06
4\46 03/149 09
546 52/149 27/1
6/47 54/149 23
7\47 22|148 95
8147 40/147 23
9/48 28}147 16
I0}50 OA|I47 17
Ti/§i 31/147 23
12|52 46/146 55
13/54 06/146 54
14/55 41/146 56
15/57 14/747 09
i ieee Weather, and Remarks.
ea
S.S.W. Strong gales with rain, and a
a heavy following fea. Sawawhale, and
peti divers.
ae Frefh gales and fqually, with
rain.
Variable. A frefh breeze, and hazy.
Caught a porpoife.
Ditto. A ftrong gale, with rainy weather.
Caught a diver.
North. A frefh breeze and cloudy, with
fhowers of hail and fnow.
N.N.W. Frefh breezes and cloudy, with
4 fnow. Paffed feveral pieces of fea weed.
From N. to $8. b. W. Frefh breezes and
hazy, with rain. Paffed fea weed, a feal,
and a flock of gulls.
SHNWW.Ab. Ss A fret breeze, with a thick
fog. Pafled fea weed, drift wood, and a
diver.
Variable. Thick foggy weather. Sawa
j whale.
W.S.W. A frefh gale, with fair weather.
Paffled feveral patches of fea weed, and
logs of wood.
Wanaole! Freth gales, with fleet and fnow.
| Saw feveral flocks of gulls.
Ditto. Moderate and cloudy. Saw two
} whales, and a flock of gulls.
W.S. W.. A frefh gale, and cloudy, with
fhowers of fnow. Paffed drift wood,
fea weed, whales, gulls, and divers.
xxii APP EN DO DE.
TABLE V.°- Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the
Sandwich Hlands, to Prince William’s Sound.
Time. Fee Hens Veen Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1787. Bee, | 4
Aprili6, Pe role 3 by ih aN Variable. Moderate and cloudy, with
Noon. ay 9 fhowers of fnow.
ce orevgh pS Ditto. Moderate and hazy, with fhowers
We eed, | 7 ed of fnow at times. Saw a feal.
S.S.W. Frefh gales, with drizzling rain
and fleet. Pafled feveral patches of fea
weed.
W.b.S. Strong gales, and cloudy, with
fleet, and a heave fea from the S. W.
Variable. Frefh breezes, with fnow. Saw
a large flock of wild geele.
ee Strong gales, with fnow and fleet.
18159 13/148 04
S/n ae
20158 48/148 29
ea(49 Airy 148 40 Saw a flock of fhags.
rE. b. N. A freth eale, with fleet and rain.
Saw many Dhiules, gulls, divers, fhags,
and many other Mune of birds.
Variable. A frefh breeze, with fnow.
Many whales and birds about.
Ditto. Frefh breezes,and hazy. The ex-
tremes of Montague Ifland E.b. S. five
miles, and N. b. B. 2 * E. four leagues.
Sed At anchor as Prince William’s
Sound from this to July 31, 1787.
|
22/59 OO|I49 02
23/59 11/148 15
24159 50/148 24
a8
8
A oe ok A ©! Xxiil
PAA. BL Bey
Route of the King George (after parting Company) from Prince
William’s Sound to Portlock’s Harbour.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
Latitude | Longitude] Variation
Time. | "North. | Wet. | Haft
ae ee CaaS a fee fale
Juy 3ey 59) (2 W.S.W. Light airs, and hazy.
S.b. W. Moderate and cloudy.
Aug. I{59 03/147 15/27. oo
9 (S.E. Strong gales, with thick rainy wea-
Fee il aed a ceace 9 ther.
eae , Variable. A freth breeze, and cloudy, and
SHAY Cs aurea { a heavy fea from the S. W.
S.b. W. A frefh breeze, and pleafant wea-
Alis7, 12/1268 20 } ee
tend Very light airs, and clear. The
land in fight. A high mountain bearing
N. N. W. 2 W. diftance 25 or 30 leagues.
1 W. Freth breezes, and clear pleafant
1
|
5|57 23/138 07
weather. At anchor in Portlock’s Har-
6)57 48/136 35
bour from this to the 23d of Auguft1787.
XXIV
A B+ BRB EP N, DEO
TrA. By Le Ex VIE
Route of te King George from Portlock’s Harbour to the
C Latitude
Time. North.
29/48
30) 46
31/44
Sept. 1/43
to
42
oO ON ONS W
Go
N
_
od
—
©o
_—
Sandwich Iflands.
ane Vas on Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
{ ep
i Moe Light winds, and pleafant.
Mount Fair Weather bearing N. W.b. N.
25 leagues.
ae ae S: z Moderate, with thick rain, and a
PO ee head f{well.
Saee ue i: W.b.W. A frefh breeze, with a thick
3°: 4 ¢ fog and rain.
138 48)24 ool W.b.S. Strong gales, with drizzling rain
aetna ity, W. Strong gales, and fog, with drizzling
oT rain. Saw feveral whales.
(Weft. Freth gales, with drizzling rain.
138 37 } Paffed a feal, feveral logs of wood, and
patches of fea weed.
138 28 |N.b. W. A frefh gale, and hazy.
138 07 North. A freth breeze, and cloudy.
137 50|18 oo0,N.N.W. Moderate and hazy.
sonar f Variable. Moderate and cloudy. A great
37 39 {many birds about.
mes rae Light winds, and cloudy. Caught
37 24 a fhark and two bonitos,
Heeaet iS. W. Moderate and fair. Saw two Arc
35 5 tic gulls.
135 45 | Wa anle. Squally, with rain.
136 49/15 15| Weft. A freth breeze, and clear.
135 14 Variable. Moderate and pleafant.
135 26 N. W. Moderate and fair.
135 43 N. b. W. Moderate and hazy.
136 02/12 45)N.E.b.E. Ditto, and clear.
46 E,N.E. Moderate breezes, and clofe wea:
Dai } ther.
136 41 in b. E. A freth breeze, and hazy.
A OP PB EN) Dy ee XXV
T AS Bod, *E.» WIl,- *Gontimuied:
Route of the King George from Portlock’s Harbour to the
Sandwich Iflands.
Time. ae Le Yanauon Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
oe ane age ary oA ee ds, and pleafant. §
ept. 12, ariable ight winds, an ealant. oaw
wer i SO Sahoo aay 2 2 feveral eee birds. if
HI 2o> FONE az I N.N.E. Light winds, and clear.
14/28 271137 26 Variable. Light winds, and cloudy.
15 27irke hE |S 7.35 ; Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy.
S.W.b. W. A frefh breeze, and open
16/26 42/136 25 cloudy weather, and a {well from the
weftward.
17/25 48/136 12] g 45}|W.b.S. Moderate, and cloudy.
Fels pla N. W. Ditto, ditto, and a fwell from the
19/23 22/137 27 | N. E, b. N. A freth breeze, and clear.
g N. E. A frefh gale and fqually, with
20/21 54/139 1 } ae
21120 37|140 55 |E. N.E. A frefh gale, and cloudy.
22/20 17/143 07| 8 oo] Ditto. A freth breeze, and hazy.
23/20 0ll4s5 15 E.N,E. A frefh gale, and cloudy.
24/20 021147. 3¢ Ditto, ditto, ditte, and hazy.
25\1g 49]149 03 E.N.E.. A frefh gale, and cloudy.
Ditto. A frefh gale, and hazy. Many
tropic birds and land birds about.
rE. b. N. Moderate and clear, with a long
| following fea. The ifland of Owhyhee
4 in fight, the eaft point bearing S. b. W.
| 1W. diftance about twelve or fourteen
| _ leagues.
Variable. Squally unfettled weather. Five
{ miles off fhore.
ys Moderate and cloudy. Caught two
i
fharks. Diftance off fhore four or five
29}20 12
miles.
[D]
XxVI & PP FP EN BT x,
TA BLE VII. Continued.
Route of the King George from Portlock’s Harbour to the
Sandwich Iflands.
: Latitude | Longitude} Variation - =
Time. areal ie ae Saal eSoe Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
ee ee
8 . Qo 6 ° ‘ °o |
S ah E.b.N. Moderate and cloudy, the fouth
eee pat of the ifland of Mowee W. S. W.
phil Squally, with fhowers of rain.
The extremes of Morotoi S. = W. and
S.E.b. E.'; E. Diftance from the near-|
eft part about feven leagues.
E. b. N. Moderate and fair. The extremes
1 of Woahoo &. 38° E, and S. 73° E. From
the neareft part eight leagues.
Variable. Moderate, and fair. Atooi from
E.b. N. toN.N.E. Town of Wymoa
N.E. b. E. four leagues.
Variable. Light airs. At anchor in Yam
Bay in the ifland of Oneehow, from this}
to the 8th of Otober 1787.
}
A PPE N BD EE & REVIL
T Ar’ Lee. WI.
Route of the King George from the Sandwich Ilands to China.
Latitude | Longitude] Variation ee
North. | Wal, Eat. Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
== ——
°o sc o: Pa
161 36] 9 00} Eaft. A freth gale, and pleafant weather.
162 43 | E. N. E. Moderate, and clear.
Eaft. A frefh breeze, and hazy. Saw a
rG3 ee } tern.
165 07 Ditto. A frefh gale, with rain.
166 39 ) E.N.E. A freth gale, and cloudy.
168 N,E.b. E. A freth gale and hazy, with a
37 following fea. Saw feveral tern.
E,N.E. A frefh gale and cloudy, with a
heavy following {well. ;
Ditto. A frefh breeze, and cloudy.
E.b.N. Moderate and cloudy, and a fol-
lowing {well.
Ditto. A moderate gale and fqually, with
rain.
Variable. Frefh gales and f{qually, with
rain.
|
Ne b. N. Moderate, and cloudy. Caught
|
E72) 22 fe)
174 24
aa
3
13 oo
53
a land bird of the plover kind.
Variable. Squally unfettled weather, with
rain, and fharp lightning in the fouthern
and weftern boards.
Ditto. Moderate, and clear. Saw two
tropic birds.
E.S.E. Light winds, and cloudy, with a
{well from the N. E.
E.N.E. Light winds, and fair weather.
Ditto. A fine breeze, and cloudy. Many
I |
|
40
tropic birds about, and faw two land
birds.
XXVIII ANP Pe BIN A VI ak
TABLE VIII. Continued.
Route of the King George from the Sandwich Iflands to China.
‘ Latitude a oe ae Variation ea
Time Noth: Wet. Eat. Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1787. o bi | OS
O&: 2 E.b. N. Squally, with frequent fhowers
5 t 12 194. 00
Noon. 3 34/79 of rain. Saw a booby.
26/13 44/195 38
27\13° 261197 05
ZS” 2 QQ O32 IT i 7
Caught a noddy.
Eaft.. Moderate, and cloudy.
E.N.E. Ditto, ditto.
Bat (Moderate and cloudy, but {qualls
at times, with rain, and lightning in|
the fouthern board.
E. N. E. Moderate, and hazy.
N,E.b. E. Ditto, and cloudy. .
N. E. Moderate, and fair.
Variable. Frefh breezes and fqually, with
rain. Sawa duck,
tee Squally, with rain at times.|
|
31/13 2g|203 56/10 87
Nov. *1|13 29/207 91) 8 12
N. EF. Freth gales, and fair pleafant wea-
ther.
N.E.b.N. Freth gales, and hazy. The
ifland of Tinian, one of the Ladrones,
in fight, extending from S, 30° E. to S.
Go°E. Our diftance from the weft point
about 10 leagues.
.E. A frefh gale, and cloudy, with rain
c
|
4
|
L
16 00/216 35 Ae at times.
}) 2 iN
5
6116 s58\219 10 N. E.b.N. A frefh gale, and clear.
N. FE, 4 A freth gale and cloudy, with light}
ENG BOL22h 3d {qualls, and rain at times.
s N. E. A frefh gale, and fair pleafant wea-
8)17 §2)223 48
ther.
N.E.b. E. VIII.” Gontimued.
Route of the King George froin ‘the Sandwich Ifands té China:
Time, | Latitude }Longitude} Variation Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
North. Wet. Faft.
87» ° ’ ° : ° ;
Nov.14; E. A frefh gale, and fair, with a very
Noon. heavy {well from the northward.
5 le
Ig 42/231 08 ra
th ait weiss } heavy fea from the northward.
Eb. N. Strong gales, and cloudy.
1
N.
N.N.E. Strong gales, and fair, with a
N.
N.
I3|21 10/237 06
| E. b. E. Freth gales, and cloudy.
| P.M. paffed the Bathee Iflands. At
g < noon the ifland of Botel Tobago Xima
FERNS PURO SONGS (bore from W.N. W. to W. about four
| leagues diftant. A heavy fea from the
CNG Eas
(N.E.b. N. A freth breeze, and hazy, |
| with frequent puffs off the land. The|
!* “fouth point of the ifland of Formofa!|
ei cot aee leagues, and the north,
| part in fight Nv b. W. 2 W. four
15/22 08/240 26
L_ leagues.
N.b. E. Strong gales, and hazy, with a!
heavy fea from the northward. ,
N,N. E. Strong gales, and hazy. Sound- |
ed 20 fathoms. Light grey fand.
16)22 07
17|22 28
i}
1
(North. Moderate, and hazy. The ifland!
| of Pedro Blanco N. E.b. N. four miles. |
< Soundings in 94 fathoms, muddy fand.
| A.M. took a pilot on board out of a
L fithing-boat.
1. N. E. A. frefh breeze, and hazy, |
with rain at times. The Grand Lama
in ete bearing S. E.b.S. 13 or 14
miles.
19
XXX A.B. PAE aN alg Tk
TABLE VIII. Continued.
Route of the King George from the Sandwich Iflands to China.
i a Sess
Latitude | Longitude Variation .
Mnthil aeeh- Eat. Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
See ——
a
(North. Light winds, and cloudy. At 5
P. M. came-to, the ifland of Macao
bearing Weft, in 84 fathoms, muddy
bottom. At6 A. M. weighed; and at
= paft 10 A. M. came-to again, with
the beft bower, in nine fathoms muddy
bottom, Macao bearing N. W.N.E.toN.N.E. Light winds, and clear.
The eafternmoft point of the Damonis
Iflands in fight, W. 2S. nine leagues.
(N.N.E. Moderate, with lightning. At
| ir A M. fpoke the Queen Charlotte,
when Captain Dixon informed us his
| furgeon was dead. The extremes of the
2? thiree iflands in fight, N. E. b. E. + E.
| and S. E. b. E. 2 E. Diftant from the
neareft part four leagues. Itflands off
| the north point of Banca 5. S. W. 11
t leagues N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy.
es N.N.E. Frefh breeze, and clear. The
20) 1 11254-4523
27 On UM 254 4 Oly
28) 1 I1]250 40
north point of Banco in fight N. W. b. N.
Sumatra extending from S. W. = S. to
S. E. b. E. = E. four leagues.
{Variable. Frefh gales, with rain. At +
paft 1 P. M. paffed a fhoal bearing from
t
<
|
L
29| 2 121254 42
Mount Monopin S. E. b. S. four or five
leagues. At 7 P. M. came-to in eleven
fathoms water, muddy bottom. At 5 A. M.
weighed, and made fail. The 2d point on
the Sumatra fhore W. 2 N. fave miles.
Ir
March 1] | 1°54 5
—
A) Pa ie IN OB Toe XXXill
T ABLE IX. Continued,
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China,
to parting Company off Java Head.
: Latitude | Longitude | Variation
Tiniee econo fo we |” Eat
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
° ce) °o |
{ Variable. Light winds, with heavy rain.
At 3 P.M. paffed a Dutch man of war
lying at anchor. The 1ft point on the
Mar. 2 Sumatra fhore S. E. 2S. Spoke the Lanf-
Noon
P. M. came-to in eleven fathoms mud.
At 5 A. M. weighed, and made fail.
Lufepara S. E. four leagues.
Ditto. Light winds, and fultry. At 6
P. M. the Lanfdown ftruck on a fhoal,
and ftuck faft. Anchored in 5% fathoms,
and fent boats to affift the Lanfdown.
South point of Sumatra S. b. W. + W.
three leagues. At 3 A.M. got the Lanf-
down into deep water without any da-
Ll mage.
_< Light airs, and hazy. Half paft P.M.
weighed, and came to fail; Sumatra ex-
tending from N. W. +N. to S. W. +S.
Ditto. Light airs, with calms. During
thefe 24 hours, feveral times under weigh.
|v Light airs, with rain. P. M.
|
|
<
|
L
29 a\255 50 | down Indiaman, Captain Storey. At7
L
f
| 3 06
LoD)
An
weighed, and came to fail. At 11 P.M.
anchored in nine fathoms muddy bottom.
Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy, with fharp
lightning. At 3P.M. weighed, and made
fail, Sumatra bearing from S. W. b. W.:
W. to W. 5. W..b. 5. toS. W. ZS. 7 miles.
f Ditto. Frefh gales and fqually, with rain.
At 1 P.M. anchored in 13 fathoms wa-
| ter. At 3 weighed, and made fail. At
4. 6 frefh gales and fqually, came-to in 13
| fathoms. ‘The Sifters S.b. W. 5 miles,
and a high ifland to the Weftward of the
Sifters S. S. W. fix leagues.
r
|
|
L
f
ise
Ce
Ditto. Light winds, and fultry. At 1 P.M.
weighed and made fail. At + paft
6 came-to in 10 fathoms. The Sifters
Sisb. EE. °E., and S. S. E.h2\ Es otwe
cloudy. Half paft3 P. M. weighed and
made fail. At paft 5 came-to in 11
fathoms. The Sifters S. E. b. E. two
miles. At > paft 6 A.M. weighed and
made fail. At 10, anchored in 11 fa-
thoms water, the Sifters bearing E. b. S.
l two miles.
(Variable. Moderate, and hazy. At 7 A. M.
| weighed and made fail. At noon, North
12} 5 26 - Tfland S.S. W. feven miles. Cape St.
L
miles from the Sumatra fhore.
A P ? & N D TX. XXXY
‘TABLE. IX. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China,
to parting Company off Java Head.
. Latitude
Time. | “South.
1788. a
Mar. ron
Noon.
14, 15
16
241 6 23
2516 35
Longitude] Variation
Eaft.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
‘ (From N. to N. W. = Squally, with rain.
At 2 P.M. came-to in 11 fathoms,
North Ifland S. b. W. = W. five miles.
At 5 A. M. weighed and made fail.
At 8 moderate and cloudy. North Ifland
S. b. W. 1+ mile. At 10 anchored on
the Sumatra fhore in 3: fathoms. Warped
: off into 17 fathoms, and made fail.
CN. N. W. Light winds, with frequent
fqualls and rain. At 3 P. M. anchored
in eight fathoms. North Ifland N.N.E.
three miles. Found feveral Dutch vef-
fels riding at anchor. Employed wood-
ing and watering.
Variable. Cloudy, with fqualls and rain.
At 8 A. M. weighed and got under fail.
From this- to the 23d, working up to
Cracatoa, where we filled our water.
L
{ Ditto. Squally, with rain. At half paft 4
L
L
E,
eS py
A.M. moderate and fair, weighed and
made fail. At noon Prince’s Ifland from
S. W. to S. W. b. W. four leagues, and
the Peak of Cracatoa N. b. W. fix leagues.
W.N. W. to N. W.. Frefh breezes, and
cloudy. At 4 P.M. Prince’s Ifland from
S. W. b. W. to W. N. W. three leagues.
At 8 anchored in 35 fathoms, muddy
bottom. North point of Prince’s Ifland
W.b.S. fiveleagues, South point of Java
S. W. At5 A.M. weighed and made
fail, At noon the north point of Prince’s
Ifland N. W. b. W. + W. four leagues.
XXXV1 A PP EON Deke
Te iA«B th, EEX}: Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China,
to parting Company off Java Head.
Diners ee ee Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
1738. ° ° fo}
Variable. Moderate breezes, and fair
weather. Half paft 6 P. M. came-to in
40 fathoms muddy bottom. The fouth
point of Prince’s Ifland S. W. 2 W. four
leagues, and the fouth point of Java
S. W.b. S. fix leagues. At 8 A.M.
weighed and came to fail. At noon a
freth galeand hazy. Java Head S.b. W.
four miles.
N. W.to W.N.W. Freth gales and cloudy.
N.W. Frefh gales, and hazy.
From N. to N. W. Squally, with rain.
oY a fail in the N. E. quarter.
Light breezes and hazy. Spoke|*
Nee Queen, Douglas, from China, all well.
This day agreed to part company with
the San. Charlotte.
59\254 56
I
|
|
|
29|10. 15/255 23 i
DB? PP Te, IN Td as XXXVII
Time.
1788.
Mar.31,
Noon.
April
—
0M CN’ OW BO Db HW e™
il
—)
| alien!
Ww N
14}:
-
AVA -Bels /Big a,
Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen
Charlotte) to St. Helena.
Latitude | Longitude} Variation
South. | Weft. Wet.
tl. 37/256 28
I2 17/257 28
13 24/259 00
15 13/261 to
LO) O21263.' 16
16. 331265 o4
i740 80200) als
17 54/268 38
18> (21|269 54
18 §7|272 54
EQ 2a 27 A 4
Ig 38/276 32
BO Gole7o:. ce
20 04/280 41
20: 161262 51
ZO Guzeo me. | 38
20 571286 34
21 46/288 44
22. 281290 52
22 58/292 31
22 AQ IO i
23 47/296 3c, 9 6
24. 281297 47
PE EBON eI Or
24 561300 2¢
GA Oe WOlL5 17°
|
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
ee Le 2
Eafterly. Light winds, and fair weather.
E.N.E. Moderate, and cloudy.
E.S.E. Freth gales, and cloudy.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fine weather.
Eaft. Ditto, ditto.
Eafterly. Freth gales, and cloudy.
Ditto. . Ditto, and fair weather.
Ditto. Moderate breezes, and cloudy.
Eaitito N. Ea Prefit breezes, and hazy.
Eafterly. Squally, with rain.
E.S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy see
Ditto. Ditto, and fine weather.
EDs Mateeies and ditto.
E.S.E. Frefh gales, and clear.
Ditto. Moderate, and clear.
5. E. Light winds, and fine weather.
S.S.E. Freth breezes, and clear.