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2 mr nm Ce LAER

~OyYAGES
MONTREAL,
ON THE ‘RIVER ST. LAURENCE,

THROUGH THE

CONTINENT OF NORTH AMERICA,
FROZEN AND PACIFIC OCEANS:
IN THE YEARS 1789 AND 1793.

WITH A PRELIMINARY ACCOUNT OF —

THE RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF

THE FUR TRADE

OF

THAT COUNTRY.

ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP.

<<

BY ALEXANDER MACKENZIE; ESQ.
SS rrerrerererereray es ‘
FIRST AMERIGAN EDITION.
NEW-YORKs.“*/f1a seis
Printed and Sold by G, F. HOPKINS, at Washington’s Head, Noonan Peat streets

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TO
HIS MOST SACRED MAJESTY |

GEORGE THE THIRD,
4° THIS VOLUME
1S INSCRIBED,

BY HIS MAJESTY’S

- MOST FAITHFUL SUBJECT,
AND

DEVOTED SERVANT,

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE.

i

tt

PREFACE
“TO THE LONDON EDITION.

On presenting this volume to my country, it is not
hecessary to enter into a particular account of those
voyages whose journals form the principal part of it,
as they will be found, I trust, to explain themselves.
It appears, however, to be a duty, which the public
have a right to expect from me, to state the reasons
which have influenced me in delaying the publica-
Monefthem oF 6
- Jt has been asserted, that a misunderstanding be-
tween a person high in office and myself, was the
causé of this procrastination. it has also been pro-
pagated, that it was occasioned by that precaution
which the policy of commerce will sometimes sug~
gest; but they are both equally devoid of founda-
tion. ‘The one isan idle tale; and there could be
no solid reason for concealing the circumstances of
discoveries, whose arrangements and prosecution
‘were so honourable to my associates and myself, at
whose expense they were undertaken. The delay
actually arose from the very active and busy mode
of life i which I was engaged since the voyages
have been completed ; and when, at length, the op-
portunity arrived, the apprehension of presenting
myself to the Public in the character of an Author,
for which the course and occupations of my life have
_ by no means qualified me, made me hesitate in com-
mitting my papers to the press ; being much better
calculated to perform the voyages, arduous as they
might be, than to write an account ofthem. How-
ever, they are now offered to the Public with the
submission that becomes me. ”
I was led, at an early period of life, by commer-
cial views, to the country North-West of Lake Su-

&

vi PREFACE.

~perior, in North America, and being endowed by
nature with an inquisitive mind and enterprizing
spirit ; possessing also a constitution and frame of
body equal to the most arduous undertakings, and be-
ing familiar with toilsome exertions in the prosecu-
tion of mercantile pursuits, I not only contemplated
the practicability of penetrating across the conti-
nent of America, but was confident in the qualifi-
cations, as I was animated by the desire, to under-
take the perilous enterprize. 1 ADT ve See
The general utility of such adiscovery, has been
universally acknowledged ; while the wishes of my
particular friends and commercial associates, that I
should proceed in the pursuit of it, contributed to
quicken the execution of this favourite project of
my own ambition :- and as the completion of it ex-
tends the boundaries of geographic science, and adds
new countries to the realms of. British commerce,
the danger I have encountered, and the toils I have
suffered, have found their recompence ; nor will
the many tedious and weary days, or the gloomy
and inclement nights which I have passed, have
been passed in vain. de i
The first voyage has settled the dubious point of
a practicable North-West passage ; and I trust,
that it has set that long agitated question at rest, and
extinguished the disputes respecting it forever. An
enlarged discussion of that subject will be found to.
occupy the concluding pages of this volume. :
In this voyage, I was not only without the ne-
cessary books and instruments, but also felt myself
deficient in the sciences of astronomy and naviga-
tion ; I did not hesitate, therefore, to undertake a
winter’s voyage to this country, in order to procure
‘the oneand acquire the other. | These objects be-
ing accomplished, I returned, to determine the prac-
ticability of a commercial communication through
the continent of North America, between the At-

{

PREFACE. vii

Jantic and Pacific Oceans, which is proved by my
second journal. Nor do I hesitate to declare my
decided opinion, that very great and essential ad-
vantages may be derived by extending our trade
from one sea to the other.

~ Some account of the fur trade of Canada from

that country, of the native inhabitants, and of the
extensive districts connected with it, forms a pre-
liminary discourse, which will, I trust, prove in-
teresting to a nation whose general policy is blended
with, and whose prosperity is supported by, the
pursuits of commerce. It will also qualify the reader
to pursue the succeeding voyages with superior in-
telligence and satisfaction. |

These voyages will not, I fear, afford the variety
that may be expected from them; and that which
they offer to the eye, is not of a nature to be effec-
tually transferred to the page. Mountains and val-
lies, the dreary waste, and wide-spreading forests,
the lakes and rivers, succeed each other in general
description; and, except on the coasts of the Pacific

- Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the

inhabitants in a great measure stationary, small
bands of wandering Indians are the only people
whom I shall introduce to the acquaintance of my
readers. | :

The beaver and the buffalo, the moose-deer and
the elk, which are the principal animals to be found
in these countries, are already so familiar to the na-
turalists of Europe, and have been so often as weil
as correctly described in their works, that the bare
mention of them, as they enlivened the landscape,
or were hunted for food; with a cursory account of
the soil, the course and navigation of Jakes and rivers,
and their various produce, 1s all that can be reason-
ably expected from me.

I do not possess the science of the naturalist; and
even if the qualifications of that character had been

r {
H
siti
Deas
‘i Pa
; ie “4

vill PREEACE.,
attained by me, its curious spirit would not have

been gratified. I could not stop to dig into the

earth, over whose surface I was compelled to pass
with rapid steps; nor could I turn aside to collect
the plants which nature might have scattered on the

way, when my thoughts were anxiously employed

in making provision for the day that was passing
over me. I had to encounter perils by land and
perils by waters to watch the savage who was our
guide, or to guard against those his tribe who
might meditate our destruction. I had, also, the
passions and fears of others to control and subdue,
To-day I had to assuage.the rising discontents, and
on the morrow to cheer the fainting spirits, of the
people who accompanied me. ‘The toil of our navi-
gation was incessant, and oftentimes extreme; 3 and
In Our progress over land we had no protection from
the severity of the elements, and possessed no ac-
commodations or conveniences but such as could
be contained in the burden on our shoulders, which
aggravated the toils of our march, and added to the
Wearisomeness of our way.

Though the events which compose my journals ;

may have little in themselves to strike the imagina+
tion of those who love to be astonished, or to gratify
the curiosity of such as are enamoured of romantic
adventures; nevertheless, when it is considered that
I explored those waters which had never before
borne any other vessel than the canoe of the savage;

and traversed those deserts where an European had
‘never before presented himself to the eye of its
swarthy natives; when to these considerations are
added the important objects which were pursued,

with the dangers that were encountered, and the
dificulties that were surmounted to attain them,
this work will, I flatter myself, be found to excite
an interest, and conciliate regard, in the minds of
those who peruse it.

PREFACE. | viii

~ ‘The general map which illustrates this volume, is
reduced by Mr. Arrowsmith from his three-sheet

_ map of North-America, with the latest discoveries,

which he is about to republish. His professional
abilities are well known, and no encomium of mine

“will advance the general and merited opinion of him.

Before I conclude, I must beg leave to inform
my readers, that they are not to expect the charms
of embellished narrative, or animated description;
the approbation due to simplicity and to truth, is
all I presume to claim; and I am not without the

hope, that this claim will be allowed me. I have

described whatever I saw with the impressions of
the moment which presented it to me. The suc-
cessive circumstances of my progress are related
without exaggeration or display. I have seldom
allowed myself to wander into conjecture; and
whenever conjecture has been indulged, it will be
found, I trust, to be accompanied with the temper
of a man who is not disposed to think too highly of
himself: and if at any time I have delivered myself
with confidence, it will appear, I hope, to be on
those subjects which, from the habits and experience

of my life, will justify an unreserved communica-

tion of my opinions. I am not a candidate for li-
terary fame: at the same time I cannot but indulge
the hope, that this volume, with all its imperfec-
tions, will not be thought unworthy the attention
of the scientific geographer; and that, by unfolding
countries hitherto unexplored, and which, I pre-
sume, may now be considered as a part of the British
dominions, it will be received as a faithful tribute
to the prosperity of my country.

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE,

Lonpon, NovemBeR 30, 1801.°

B

RM ke aE

iY hte a ew -

~

A
GENERAL HISTORY

OF THE

FUR TRADE

¥

PROM

CANADA TO THE NORTH-WES'-.

"Tu fur trade, from the earliest settlement:of Canada,
‘was considered of the first importance tothatcolony. The
country was then so populous, that, in the vicinity of the es-
tablishments, the animals whose skins were precious, in a
commercial view, soon became very scarce, if not'altogether
extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at former periods,
but merely for food and clothing. Whe Indians, therefore,
to procure the necessary supply, were encouraged to pene-
| trate into the country, and were generally accompanied by
some of the Canadians, who found means to induce the re-
motest tribes of natives to bring the skins which were most
in demand, to their settlements, in the way of trade.
_ Itis not necessary for me to examine the cause, but ex-
perience proves that it requires much less time for a civiliz-
ed people to. deviate into the manners and customs of savage
life, than for savages to rise into a state of civilization. ‘Such
was the event with those who thus accompanied the natives
on their hunting and trading excursions ; for they became:
so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost all re-
lish for their former habits and native homes. Hence they
derived the title of Coureurs des Bois,became a kind of ped-

2 A General History of the Fur Trade.

lars, and were extremely useful to the merchants engaged
in the fur trade ; who gave them the necessary credit to pro-
ceed on their commercial undertakings. ‘Three or four of
these people would join their stock, put their property into
a birch-bark canoe, which they worked themselves, and
either accompanied the natives in their excursions, or went
at once to the country where they knew they were to hunt.

At length, these voyages extended to twelve or fifteen

months, when they returned with rich cargoes of furs, and

followed by great numbers of the natives. During the short ”

time requisite to settle their accounts with the merchants,
and procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squan-
der away all their gains, ‘when they returned to renew their

favourite mode of life: their views being answered, and

their labour sufficiently rewarded, by mdulging themselves

in extravagance and dissipation during the short space of

one month in twelve or fifteen.
This indifference about amassing property, a the plea~

sure of living free from all restraint, soon brought on a li-

‘centiousness of manners which could not long escape the
vigilant observation of the missionaries, who had much
reason to complain of their being a disgrace to the christian
religion ; by not only swerving from its duties themselves,
but ‘by thus bringing it into disrepute with those of the na-
tives who had become converts to it ; and, consequently,
obstructing the great object to which thosé pious men had
devoted their lives. They, therefore, exerted their influ-
ence to procure the suppression of thesefpeople, and accord-
ingly, no one was allowed to go up the country to traffic
with the Indians, without a licence from the government.
At first these permissions were, of course, granted only
to those whose character was such as could give no alarm

>

to the zeal of the missionaries ; but they were afterwards |

bestowed as rewards for services, on officers, and their
widows; and they, who werenot willing or able to make use

of them, (which may be supposed to be always the case with —

those of the latter description) were allowed to sell them to

the merchants, who necessarily employed the Coureurs des

Bois, in quality of their agents ; and these people, as may
be imagined, gave sufficient cause for the renewal of former
complaints ; ; so that the remedy proved, in fact, worse than
the disease.

At length, military posts were established at the conflu-

ence of the different large lakes of Canada, which, ina great _

\

ST, ——

A General History of the Fur Trade. 3

measure, checked the evil consequences that followed from
the improper conduct of these foresters, and, at the same

_ time, protected the trade. Besides, a number of able and

‘respectable men retired from the army, prosecuted the trade

in person, under their respective licences, with great order
and regularity, and extended it to such a distance, as, in

those days, was considered to be an astonishing effort of

commercial enterprize. These persons and the missiona-
ries having combined their views at the same time, secured
the respect of the natives, and the obedience of the people
necessarily employed in the laborious parts of this under-
taking. These gentlemen denominated themselves com-
manders, and not traders, though they were entitled to both
those characters: and, as for the missionaries, if sufferings
and hardships in the prosecution of the great work which
they had undertaken, deserved applause and admiration,
they had an undoubted claim to be admired and applauded :

_ they spared no labour and avoided no danger in the execu-

tion of their important office ; and it is to be seriously la-
mented, that their pious endeavour did not meet with the
success which they deserved: for there is hardly a trace to
be found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious
functions. | |

The cause of this failure must be attributed to a want of
due consideration in the mode employed by the missiona-
ries to propagate the religion of which they were the zea-
lous ministers. ‘They habituated themselves to the savage
life, and naturalized themselves to the savage manners, and,
by thus becoming dependent, as it were on the natives, they
acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. Ii
they had been as well acquainted with human nature, as
they were with the articles of their faith, they would have
known, that the uncultivated mind ef an Indian must be
disposed by much preparatory method and instruction to re-
ceive the revealed truths of Christianity, to act under its
sanctions, and be impelled to good by the hope of its reward,

or turned from evil by the fear of its punishments. They

should have began their work by teaching some of those
useful arts which are the inlets of knowledge, and lead the
mind by degrees to objects of higher comprehension. Agri-
culture, so formed to fix and combine society, and so pre-
paratory to obiects of superior consideration, should have
been the first thing introduced among a savage people : it at-
taches the wandering tribe to that spot where it adds se

; \

7

~~ . 2 General History of the Fur Trade.

much to their comforts; while it gives them a sense of
property, and of lasting possession, instead of the uncertain
hopes of the chase, and the fugitive produce of uncultivated
wilds. Such were the means by which the forests of Para-
guay were converted into a scene of abundant cultivation,
and its savage inhabitants introduced to all the advantages
@f a civilized life. ; : Sg

The Canadian missionaries should have been- contented
to improve the morals of their own countrymen, so that
by meliorating their character and conduct, they would have
given a striking example of the effect of religion in promot-
ing the comforts of life to the surrounding savages ; and
might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the
xemotest regions of that country, which was the object,
and intended to be the scene, of their evangelic labours.
But by bearing the light of the Gospel at once to the distance
of two thousand five hundred miles from the.civilized part
of the colonies, it was soon obscured by the cloud of. ig-
norance that darkened the human mind in those distant re-
gions. pity:
The whole of their long route I have often travelled, and
the recollection of such a people as the missionaries haying
been there, was confined toa few superannuated Canadians,
who had not left that country since the cession to the Eng-
lish,’ in 1763, and who particularly mentioned the death of
some, and the distressing situation of them all. Butif these
religious men did not attain the objects of their persevering
piety, they were, during their mission, of great service to
the commanders who engaged in those distant expeditions,
and spread the fur trade as far West as the banks of the
Saskatchiwine river, in .53 North latitude, and longitude
102 West.

At an early period of their intercourse with the savages,
a custom was introduced of a very excellent tendency, but
ts new unfortunately discontinued, of not selling any spi-
rituous liquors to the natives. This admirable regulation
was for some time observed, with all the respect due to the
veligion by which it was sanctioned, and whose severest
censures followed the violation of it. A painful penance
ould alone restore the offender to the suspended rites of
the sacrament. The casuistry of trade, however, disco-
vered a way to gratify the Indians with their favourite .cor-

dial, without incurring the ecclesiastical penalties, by giving,

anstead of selling it to them.

&

_ A General History of the Fur Trade. fd

» But notwithstanding all the restrictions with which com-
merce was oppressed under the French government, the fur
trade was extended to the immense distance which has been
already stated; and surmounted many most discouraging
difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed; while, at the
same time, no exertions were made from Hudson’s Bay to
obtain even a share of the trade of a country which, accord-
ing to the charter of that company, belonged to it, and,
from its proximity, is so much more accessible to the mer-
cantile adventurer.’

Of these trading commanders, I understood, that two
attempted to penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but the utmosé
extent of their journey I could never learn; which may be
attributed, indeed, to a failure of the undertaking.

For some time after the conquest of Canada, this trade
was suspended, which must have been very advantageous ta
the Hudson’s Bay Company, as all the inhabitants to the
Westward of Lake Superior, were obliged to go to them
for such articles as their habitual use had rendered necessa-
ry. Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them,

and were become attached to a savage life, accompanied
them thither annually, till mercantile adventurers again ap-
‘peared from their own country, after an interval of several
years, owing, as I suppose, to an ignorance of the country in
the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence
i the conquered. There were, indeed, other discourage-
ments, such as the immense length of the journey necessa-
ry to reach the limits beyond which this commerce must
begin; the risk of property ; the expenses attending such
a long transport; and an ignorance of the language of those
who, from their experience, must be necessarily employed
as the intermediate agents between them and the natives.
But, notwithstanding these difficulties, the trade, by de-
grees, began to spread over the different parts to which it
had been carried by the French, though at a great risk of
the lives, as well as the property, of their new possessors,
for the natives had been taught by their former allies to en-
_ tertain hostile dispositions towards the English, from their
having been in alliance with their natural enemies the Iro-
quois ; and there were not wanting a sufficient number of
discontented, disappointed people, to keep alive such a no-
tion ; so that for a long time they were considered and treat-
ed as objects of hostility. To prove this disposition of the
Indians, we have only to refer to the conduct of Pontiac,

a

6 A General History of the Fur Trade.

at Detroit, and the surprise and taking of Michilimakitiac,
about this period.

Hence it arose, that it was so late as the year 1766, be-
fore which, the trade I mean to consider, commenced from
Michilimakinac. The first who attempted it were satisfied
to go the length of the River Camenistiquia, about thirty
miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, where the
French had a principal establishment, and was the line of
their communication with the interior country. It was
once destroyed by fire. Here they went and returned suc-

essful in the following spring to Michilimakinac. » Their
success Induced them to renew their journey, and incited
others to follow their example. Some of them remained at
Camenistiquia, while others proceeded to and beyond the
Grande Portage, which, since that time,jjhas become the

principal entrepot of that trade, and is situated in a bay, in

latitude.48 North, and longitude 90 West. After passing
the usual season there, they went back to Michilimakinacas
before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increased
numbers. One of these, Thomas Curry, with a spirit of
enterprize superior to that of his contemporaries, determin-
ed to penetrate to the furthest limits of the French disco-
veries in that country: or at least till the frost should stop
him. For this purpose he procured guides and interpret-
ers, who were acquainted with the country, and with four
canoes arrived at Fort Bourbon, which was one of their
posts, at the West end of the Cedar Lake, on the waters of
the Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil were well recompen-
sed, for he came back the following spring with his canoes
filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada,
- and was satisfied never again to return to the Indian
country.

From this period people began to spread over every part
of the country, particularly where the French had estab-
lished settlements.

Mr. James Finlay was the first who follomsas Mr. Curry’ Ss
example, and with ‘the same number of canoes, arrived,.in
the course of the next season, at Nipawee, the last f ‘the
French settlements on the bank of the Saskatchiwine River,
in latitude nearly 433 North, and longitude 103 West: he
found the good fortune, as he followed, in every ssiessonia
the example of his predecessor.

As may be supposed, there were now people enough rea-
dy to replace them, and the trade was pursued with such

«A General History of the Fur Trade. Sa

ityj.and irregularity, that ina few.years it became the
erg what it,qught, to have been. ..An animated com-
petition) prevailed, andthe contending parties carried the
trade, beyond the. French limits, though with no benefit to
themselves. or neighbours, the Hudson’s-Bay, Company ;
ewhovin the’ year 1774, and not till then, thought proper.to
move from home.to. lhe East bank of Sturgeon Lake, in
datiwde 53.56. North,..and longitude 102. 15. West, and
_became, more jealous of, their fellow subjects; and, per haps,
with more cause, than they had been of those Ry France.
From. this,period to the present time, they have been fol-
dowing» the »Canadians to their different establishments,
while, onthe contrary, there is not a solitary instance that
the Canadians have followed, them; and there are many
ding posts which they have, not yet attained. This,
however, will no longer, be a, mystery when. the nature ae
policy of the Hudson’s-Bay Company is compar ed with
‘that which has been pursued, by their rivals in this trade.—
toreturnito my,subject... . . -
pues -his competition, which has been already mentioned,
gave a fatal-blow. to the trade from Canada, and, with other
incidentalcauses, in my opinion, contributed: to its ruin.
This trade was carried on ina very distant country, out of
thes reach, of legal restraint, and where there was a free
Scope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage.
The consequence was not only the loss of commercial be-
nefit to;the persons engaged in it, but.of the good opinion
of, the matives, and the respect of their men, who were in-
clined to follow their example; so that with drinking, carous-
ing, and quarrelling with the Indians along their route, and
among themselves, they seldom reached. their winter quar-
eres and if they did, it was generally by dragging their
preperty upon sledges, as the navigation was closed up by
the frost. When at length they were arrived, the object of
¢€ach was to injure his rival traders in the opinion of the |
‘Matives,asmuchyas was in their-power, by misrepresentation |

and»presents, for which the agents employed were peculiar-

Tycalculated. ‘They Cau aaa the command. of their em-
ployer as.binding,on them, and however wrong or irregular
the transaction, the responsibility rested with ‘the principal
who directed: them. ‘This is Indian law. | Thus did the ey
waste their credit andtheir property with the natives, till the
first was,past redemption, and thelast was near ly exhausted ;

ae

8 A General History of the Fur Trade.

so that towards the spring in each year, the rival parties
found it absolutely necessary to join, and make one com-
mon stock of what remained, for the purpose of trading
with the natives, who could entertain no respect for persons
who had conducted themselves with so much irregularity
and deceit. The winter, therefore was one continued scene
of disagreements and quarrels. If any one had the precau-
tion or good sense to keep clear of these proceedings, he
derived a proportionable advantage from his good conduct,
and frequently proved a peace-maker between the parties.
To such an height had they carried this licentious conduct,

that they were in a continual state of alarm, and were even

frequently stopped to pay tribute on their route into the
country ; though they had adopted the plan of travelling
together in parties of thirty or forty canoes, and, keeping
their men armed ; which sometimes, indeed, proved neces-
sary for their defence. Ut: ak yas

Thus was the trade carried on for several years, and
consequently becoming worse and worse, so that the part-
ners, who met them at the Grande Portage, naturally com-
plained of their ill success. But specious reasons were
always ready to prove that it arose from. circumstances
which they could not at that time control ; and encourage-
ments were held forth to hope that a change would soon
take place, which would make ample amends for past dis-
appointments. eRe

{t was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Frobisher, one
of the gentlemen engaged in the trade, determined to pe-
netrate into the country yet unexplored, to the North and
Westward, and, in the spring of the year 1775, met the
Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill;
at Portage de ‘Traite, so named from that circumstance on
the banks of the Missinipi, or Churchill River, latitude
55. 25. North, lo#gitude 103%. West. It was, indeed,
with some difficulty that he could induce them to trade with
him, but he at length procured as many furs as his canoes
could carry. In this perilous expedition he sustained every

kind of hardship incident to a journey through a wild and

savage country, where his subsistence depended on what
the woods and the waters produced. ‘These difficulties,
nevertheless, did not discourage him from returning in the
following year, when he was equally successful. He then
gent his brother to explore the country still further West,

oy

A General History of the fur Trade. 9

who penetrated as far as the lake of Isle ala Croisse, in
latitude 55. 26. North, and longitude 108. West.

_ He, however, never after wintered among the Indians,
though he retained a large interest in the trade, and a prin-
cipal share in the directing of it till the year 1798, when he
retired to enjoy the fruits of his labours ; and, by his hos-
pitality, became known to every respectable stranger who
visited Canada.

The success of this gentleman induced others to follow
his example, and in the spring of the year 1778, some of
the traders on the Saskatchiwine River, finding they had a
quantity of goods to spare, agreed to put them into a joint
stock, and gave the charge and management of themto Mr.
Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was-directed to enter
the English River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to follow
his track and proceed still further ; if possible, to Athabas-
ca, a country hitherte unknown but from Indian report.
In this enterprize he at length succeeded, and pitched his
Aent on the banks of the Elk River, by him erroneously
called the Athabasca River, about forty miles from the Lake
of the Hills, into which it empties itself.

Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a vast con-
course of the Knisteneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who used
to carry their furs annually to Churchill; the latter by the
barren grounds, where they suffered innumerable hardships,
and were sometimes even starved to death. The former
followed the course of the lakes and rivers, through a
country that abounded in animals, and where there was
plenty of fish; but though they did not suffer from want of
food, the intolerable fatigue of such a journey could not be
easily repaid to an Indian ; they were, therefore, highly
gratified by seeing people come to their country to relieve
them from such long, toilsome, and dangerous journies ;
and were immediately reconciled to give an advanced price
for the articles necessary to their comfort and convenience,
Mr. Pond’s reception and success was accordingly beyond
‘his expectation ; and he procured twice as many furs as his
canoes would carry. ‘They also supplied him with as much
provision as he required during his residence among them,
and sufficient for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs
as he could not embark, he secured in one of his winter
huts, and they were found the following season In the same
State in which he left them.

is =

10 A General ~_ " we the comes

not ioe pel the aorleb of Canada ral eden ee stows oper
conduct of somg of their associates, which rendered i it dan-
gerous to remain any longer among the natives. | Most o'
them who passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine, gowtsiete:
Eagle hills, where, i the spring of the year 1780, afew
days previous to their intended departure, a large band:
of Indians being engaged\in drinking about’ their houses,
one of the traders, to ease himself of the troublesonie im.
portunities of a native, gave him a dose! of laudanum ina
glass af grog, which effectually prevented him from giving:
further trouble to any one, ‘by’ setting him asleep’ forever’
This accident produced a fray, in which one of the traders,’
and several of the men,were killed,while the rest had no other
means to save themselves but by a precipitate flight, ‘aban-
doning a considerable quantity of goods, and near half the —
furs which they had sige: cueing the he hi and the? -
spring. ae Cae ee ia.

About the same time, two of the cirtatslotdlealaaiad the
Assiniboin river, were attacked with less justice, when’
several white men, and a greater number of Indians were’
killed. In short, it appeared, that the natives had formed
a resolution to extirpate the traders; and, without entering’
into any further reasoning’ on the subject; ‘it: appears to be
incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in carrying:
on the trade has brought’ it into its present forlorn situation ;
and nothing but the greatest calamity that could have befallen.
the natives, saved the traders from destruction: this was’
the small pox, which spread its destructive and desolating’
power, as the fire consumes the dry grass of the field. The
fatal infection spread around with a baneful rapidity which
no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing
could resist. It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole’
families and tribes; andthe horrid scene presented to those.
who had the melancholy and afflicting opportunity of be.
holding it, a combination of the dead, the dyitig, and such.
' disk to ‘avid the horrid fate of their ddcuds around ‘them,
prepared to disappoint the ci of its Preys by oe
their own existence. vi

The habits and lives of those demoed people, wisi pro-
vided not to-day for the wants of to-morrow, must have’
heightened the pains of such an affliction, by leaving them >
not only without remedy, but -even without alleviation.
-Nought was left them but to submit in agony and despair.

A General History of the Fur Trade. — 1t

) Po: aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible,
may’be added, the putrid carcases which the wolves, with a
furious voracity, dragged forth from the huts, or which
were mangled within them by the dogs, whose hunger was
satisfied with the disfigured remains of their masters. Nor
was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the in-
fection had not reached, to call them around him, to repre-
sent the cruel sufferings and. horrid fate of their relations,
- from the influence of some evil spirit who was preparing to
- extirpate their race ; and to incite them ta baffle death, with
all its horrors, by their own poniards.. At the same time
if their hearts failed them in this necessary act, he was him-
self ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand,
as the last act of his affection, and instantly to follow them
to the common place of rest and refuge from human evil.

~ It was never satisfactorily ascertained by what means this
malignant disorder was introduced, but it was generally
supposed to be from the Missisouri, by a war party.

_ The consequence of this melancholy event to the traders
must be self-evident ; the means of disposing of their goods
were cut off; and no furs were obtained, but such as had
been gathered from the habitations/of the deceased Indians,
which could not be very considerable: nor did they look,
from the losses of the present year, with any encouraging
€xpectations to those which were to come. ‘The only tor-
tunate people consisted of a party who had again penetrated
to the Northward and Westward in 1780, at some distance
up the Missinipi, or English River, to Lake la Rouge. Two
unfortunate circumstances, however, happened to them;
which are as follow:

~ Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity and
known sobriety, had gone there in the year 1779, any’
mained during the summer 1780. His partners and ot ners,
engaged in an opposite interest, when at the Grande Portage,

agreed to send a quantity of sdods on their joint account,
_ which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them
to be their representative to act in conjunction with Mr.
Wadin. Two men, of more opposite characters, could
not, perhaps, have been found. In short, from various
causes, their situations became very uncomfortable to each
other, and mutual ill will was the natural consequence: with-
out entering, therefore, into a minute history of these trans-
actions, it will be sufficient to observe, that, about the end
of the year 1780, or the beginning of the year 1781, Mr.-

i», #

12 A General History of the Fur Trade.

Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his own clerks'to
dinner; and, in the course of the night, the former was shot.
through the lower part of the thigh, when it was said that
he expired from the loss of blood, and was buried next.
morning at eight o’clock. Mr. Pond and the clerk were.
tried for this murder at Montreal, and acquitted: neyverthe-.
less, their innocence was not so apparent as to extinguish
the original suspicion.

The other circumstance was this. In the spring of ‘ion
year, Mr. Pond sent the abovementioned clerk to meet the
Indians from the Northward, who used to go annually to
Hudson’s Bav; when he easily persuaded them to trade
with him, and return back, that they might not take the
contagion which had depopulated the country to the East-
ward of them: but most unfortunately they caught it here,
and carried it with them, to the destruction of themselves
and the neighbouring tribes.

The country being thus depopulated, the endane per
their friends from Canada, who, from various causes already
_ mentioned, were very much reduced in number, became
confined to two parties, who began to think seriously of
making permanent establishments on the Missinipi river,
and at Athabasca; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they se-
lected their best canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-
pox penetrated that way, The most expeditioys party got
only in time to the Portage la Loche, or Mithy-Ouinigam,
which divides the waters of the Missinipi from those that
fall into the Elk river, to dispatch one canoe strong handed,
and light loaded, to that country; but, on their arrival there,
they found, in every direction, the ravages of the small.
pox; so that, from the great diminution of the natives, they
returned i in the spring with no more than seyen packages of
beaver. The strong woods and mouniainous ¢ountries af,
forded a refuge to those who fled from the contagion of the
plains ; but they were so alarmed at the surrounding des:
truction, that they avoided the traders, and were dispirited.
from hunting, except for their subsistence. The traders,
however, who returned into the country in the year 1782-3,
found the inhabitants in some sort of tranquillity, and more.
numerous than they had reason to expect, so that their suc-
cess was proportionably better.

During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canaday
engaged in this trade, formed a junction of interests, un-
der the name of the North-West Company, and divided it

A General History of the Fur Trade. #3

nto sixteen shares, without depositing any capital; each
party furnishing a proportion or quota of such articles as
were necessary to carry on the trade: the respective parties
agreeing to satisfy the friends they had in the country, who
were not provided for, according to this agreement, out of
the proportions which they “eld. | The management of the
whole was accordingly entrusted to Messrs. Benjamin and
Joseph Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M’Tavish, two distinct
houses, who had the greatest interest and influence in the
country, and for which they were to receive a stipulated
commission in all transactions.
In the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the Grande

Portage with their credentials, which were confirmed and
ratified by all the parties having an option, except Mr. Peter
Pond, who was not satisfied with the share allotted him.
‘Accordingly he and another gentleman, Mr. Peter Pang-
man, who had a right to be a partner, but for whom no pro-
vision had been made, came to Canada, with a determina-
tion to return to the country, if they could find any persons
‘to join them, and give their scheme a proper support.

~ ©The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal,
thus entered into a co-partnershipy/which, by these means,
was consolidated and directed by able men, who, from the
powers with which they were entrusted, could carry on the
trade to the utmost extent it would bear. ‘The traders in
the country, therefore, having every reason to expect that
their past and future labours would be recompensed, forgot
all their former animosities, and engaged with the utmost
spirit and activity, to forward the general interest; so that,
inthe following year, they met their agents at the Grande
Portage, with their canoes laden with rich furs from the
different parts of that immense tract of country. But this
satisfaction was not to be enjoyed without some interrup-
tion; and they were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman
had prevailed on Messrs. Gregory and Macleod to join him,
and give him their support in the business, though deserted
by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms offered by his former
Associates.
© In the counting house of Mr. Gregory I had been five
years ; and at this period had left him, with a small ad-
venture of goods, with which he had entrusted me, to seek
my fortune at Detroit. He, without any solicitation on my
part, had procured an insertion in the agreement, that I
shoyld be admitted a partner in this business, on condition

8

iy

yy

14. 'AGeneral History of the Fur, Trade.
that I would proceed to the Indian country,in the follo

spring, 1785. His partner came to Detroit to make me :
such a proposition. J readily assented.to it,: and immedi-

ately proceeded to the Grande Portage; where I joined my

associates. : i Sea iy Oe HM, i¥ bce

» We now found that, independent aki the ‘sania difficul-

ties of the indertaking, we should have to.encounter every
other which they, who were already -in possession ‘of. the

trade of the country, could throw in.our way, and whicl
their circumstances enabled them, to do... Nor did they
doubt, from their own superior experience, as wellias. that

of Minch clerks and men, with their local, knowledge of »the

country and its inhabitants, that they should, soon compel

us to leave the country, to them. The event, however,
did not justify their expectations; for, after the severest

struggle ever known in that part of the;world, and suffering

every oppression which a jealous’ and rival spirit. could m-
stigate ; after the murder of one of our partners, the laming

of another, and the narrow escape of one, of our clerks,
who received a bullet through his powder horn,.in, the ex-
ecution of his duty, they were compelled to allow us.ashare

of the trade. As we had already incurred.a loss, this union
was in every respect, a desirable | event ainda was
concluded: in the month of July 1787. 5 9) soko

This commercial establishment was now, sn ona
more solid basis than any hitherto known in the country;
and it. not only continued in full force, vigour, and pros-

perity, in spite of all interference from Canada, but main-

tained at least an equal share of advantage with the Hud-
son’s-Bay Company, notwithstanding the. superiority, of
their local situation. The following account of this self-
erected concern will manifest the cause of its success.
It assumed the title of the North-West Company, and
was no more than an association of commercial men, agree-
ing among themselves to carry on the fur trade, unconnect-
ed with any other business, though many of the parties) en-
gaged had extensive concerns altogether foreign to it. It
may be said to have been supported entirely upon credit;
for, whether the capital belonged to the proprietor, or was
borrowed, it equally bore interest,for which the’ association
was annually accountable. It consisted of ; twenty shares,
unequally divided among the persons concerned. OF these
a certain proportion was held by the people who managed
the business in Canada, and were styled agents {for the

A General History of the Fur Trade. 15

“Company. Their duty was to import the necessary goods
~ from England, store them at their own expense at Montreal,
get them’ made up into the articles suited to the trade, pack
and forward them, and supply the cash that might be want-
ing for the outfits ; for which they received, independent of
the profit on their shares, a commission on the amount of
the accounts, which they were obliged to make out annu-
ally, and keep the adventure of each year distinct; Two
of them went annually to the Grande Portage, to manage
and transact the business there, and on the communication
at Detroit, Michilimakinac, St. Mary’s, and at Montreal,
where they received stores, packed up, and shipped the
company’s furs for England, on which they had alsoa small
commission. ‘he remaining shares were held by the pro-
prietors, who were obliged to winter and manage the busi-
ness of the concern with the Indians, and their respective
clerks, &c. ‘They were not supposed to be under any obli-
gation to furnish capital; or even credit; Ii they obtained
any capital by the trade, it was to remain in the hands.of the
agents ; for which they were allowed interest: Some of
them, from their long services and influence, held double
shares, and were allowed to retire from the business at any
period of the existing concern, with one of those shares,
naming any young man in the company’s service to succeed
him in the other. Seniority and merit were, however,
eonsidered as affording a claim to the succession, which,
nevertheless, could not be disposed of without the concur-
rence of the majority of the concern ; who, at the same
time, relieved the seceding person from any responsibility
respecting the share that he transferred, and accounted for
it according to the annual value or rate of the property ; so
that the seller could have no advantage but that of getting
the share of stock which he retained realised, and receiving
for the transferred share what was fairly determined to be the
worth of it. The former was.also discharged from all duty,
and became a dormant partner. ‘Thus, all the young men
who were not provided for at the beginning of the contract,
succeeded in succession to the character and advantages of
partners. ‘hey entered into the Company’s service for five
or seven years, under such expectations, and their reasona-
ble prospects were seldom disappointed: there were, indeed,
imstances when they succeeded to shares, before their ap-
| Seca was expired, and it frequently happened that
they were provided ior while they were in a state of articled
D

16 A General History of the Fur Trade.

clerkship. Shares were transferable only to the concern at
large, as no person could be admitted as a partner who had.

not served his time tothe trade. The dormant partner in-

deed might dispose of his interest to any one he chose, but

if the transaction were not acknowledged by his associates,

the purchaser could only be considered as his agent or at-

torney. Every share had a vote, and two-thirds formed a

majority. This regular and equitable mode of providing

for the clerks of the company, excited a spirit of emulation

in the discharge of their various duties, and, in fact, made

every agent a principal, who perceived his own prosperity

to be immediately connected with that of his employers.

Indeed, without’such a spirit, such a trade could not have'
become so extended and advantageous, as it has been and

now is. |

In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure for the year
did not exceed forty thousand pounds,* but by the exertion,
enterprize, and industry of the proprietors, it was brought
in elewen years to triple that amount and upwards; yielding
proportionate profits, and surpassing, in short, any thing
known in America. | ,

Such, therefore, being the prosperous state of the com-
pany, it very naturally tempted thers to interfere with the
concern in a manner by no means beneficial to the company,
and commonly ruinous to the undertakers.

In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the shares
were increased to forty-six, new partners being admitted,
and others retirmg. This period was the termination of
the company, which was not renewed by all the parties con-
cerned in it, the majority contmuing to act upon the old
stock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new
one; and it now remains to be decided, whether two par-
ties, under the same regulations and by the same exertions,
though unequal in number, can continue to carry on the
business to a successful issue. The contrary opinion has
been held, which, 1f verified, will make it the interest of
the parties again to coalesce; for neither is deficient in capi-
tal to support their obstinacy im a losing trade, as it is not to
be supposed that either will yield on any other terms than
perpetual participation.

* This might be properly called the stock of the company, as it included,
with the expenditure of the year, the amount of the property unexpended,
which had been appropriated for the adventure of that year, and was car-
ried. on to the account of the folowing adventure.

e

A General History of the Fur Trade, 17

It will not be superfluous in this place, to explain the ge-
meral mode of carrying on the fur trade. ©
_ The agents are obliged to order the necessary goods from
England in the month of Octeber, eighteen months before
they can leave Montreal; that is, they are not shipped from
London until the spring following, when they arrive in
Canadainthesummer. Inthe course of the following win-
ter they are made up into such articles as: are required for
the savages; they are then packed into parcels of ninety
pounds weight each, but cannot be sent from Montreal until
the May following ; so that they do not get to market until
the ensuing winter, when they are exchanged for furs, which
come to Montreal the next fall, and from thence are shipped,
chiefly to London, where they are not sold or paid for be-
fore the succeeding spring, or even as late as June; which
is forty-two months after the goods were ordered in Canada ;
thirty-six after they had been shipped from England, and
twenty-four after they had been forwarded from Montreal ;*
so that the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months’
credit, does not receive a return to pay for those goods, and
the necessary expenses attending them, which is about equal
to the value of the goods themselves, until two years after
they are considered as cash, which makes this a very heavy
business. There is even a small proportion of it that re-
quires twelve months longer to bring round the payment,
owing to the immense distance it is carried, and from the
shortness of the seasons, which prevents the furs, even after
they are collected, from coming out of the country for that
period. :
The articles necessary for this trade, are coarse woollen
cloths of different kinds; milled blankets of different sizes ;
arms and ammunitien ; twist and carrot tobacco; Manches-
ter goods; linens and coarse sheetings; thread, lines and

* This will be better illustrated by the following statement :
We will suppose the goods for 1798 ;

The orders for the goods are set to this country 25th Oct. 1796.
They are shipped trom London - - March 1797.
: They arrive in Montreal =f - - - June 1797.
_ They are made up in the course of that summer and winter.
They are sent from Montreal - : - May 1798.
They arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged for
furs the following winter - - - - 1798-9.
Which furs come to Montreal - - ~. Sept. 1799.

And are shipped for London, where they are sold in March
and April, and paid for in May or June - rie eee aa (0? Hae

18 A General History of the Fur Trade.

twine; common hardware; cutlery and ironmongery of se-.

veral descriptions; kettles of brass and copper, and sheet~
iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs ; hats, shoes and hose ;
calicoes and printed cottons, &c. &c. &c. Spirituous liquors

and provisions are purchased in Canada. ‘These, and the

expeuse of transport to and from the Indian country, in-
cluding wages to clerks, interpreters, guides, and canoe-
men, with the expense of making up the goods for the
market, form about half the annual'amount against the ad-
venture.

This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the en-
couragement of British manufactory, for those who are em-
ployed in the different branches of this business, are enabled.
by their gains to purchase such British articles as they must
otherwise forego.

The produce of the year of which I am now speaking,

consisted of the following furs and peltries: ;

106,000 Beaver skins, 6000 Lynx skins,
2100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins,
1500 Fox skins, | 1650 Fisher skins,
.4000 Kitt Fox skin, 100 Rackoon skins,
4600 Otter skins, 3800 Wolf skins,

17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins,

- 32,000 Marten skins, _ 750 Deer skins, »

1800 Mink skins, — 1200 Deer skins, dressed,

500 Buffalo robes, and a quantity of castorum.

Of these were diverted from the British market, ie
sent through the United States to China, 13,364 sking: fine
beaver, weipling 19,283 pounds ; 1250 fine otters, and 1724
kitt foxes. They would have found their way to the China
market at any rate, but this deviation from the British
channels arose from the following circumstance:

An adventure of this kind was undertaken by a respect-
able house in London, half concerned with the North-West
Company, in the year 1 792. The furs were of the best kind,
and suitable to the market; and the adventurers continued.
this connection for five successive years, to the annual amount
of forty thousand pounds. At the winding up of the con-

cern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 1797, (the ad-

venture of 1796 not being included, as the furs-were not
sent to China, but disposed of in London) the North West
Company experienced a loss of upwards of £40,000 (theiy
half) which was principally owing to the difficulty of get-
ting home the produce procured in return for the furs from

a

A General History of the Fur Trade. 19.

China, in the East India Company’s ships, together with
the duty payable, and the various restrictions of that compa-
ny. Whereas, from America there are no impediments ;
they get immediately to market, and the produce of them
is brought back, and perhaps sold in the course of twelve
months. From such advantages the furs of Canada will no
doubt find their way to China by America, which would
not be the case if British subjects had the same privileges that
are allowed to foreigners, as London would then be found
the best and safest market.

- But to return to our principal subject.—We shall now
proceed to consider the number of men employed in the
concern: viz. filty clerks, seventy-one interpreters and
clerks, one thousand one hundred and twenty canoe men,
and thirty-five guides, Of these, five clerks, eighteen
guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe men were em-
ployed for the summer season in going from Montreal to
the Grande Portage, in canoes, part of whom proceeded
from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be hereafter explained,
and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers. These
were hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent from
the 1st of May till the latter end of September. For this
trip the guides had from eight hundred toa thousand livres,
and a suitable equipment; the foreman and steersman from
four to six hundred livres, the middlemen from two hun-
dred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with an
equipment of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trow-
sers ; and were maintained during that period at the expense
of their employers. Independent of their wages, they were
allowed to traffic, and many of them earned to the amount
of their wages. About one third of these went to winter,
and had more than double the above wages and equipment.
All the winterers were hired by the year, and sometimes
for three years; and of the clerks many were apprentices,
who were generally engaged for five or seven years, for
which they had only one hundred pounds, provision and.
clothing. Such of them who could not be provided for as
partners, atthe expiration of this time, were allowed from one
hundred pounds to three hundred pounds per annum, with all
necessaries, till provision was made for them. Those who act-
ed inthe two-fold capacity of clerk and interpreter, or were so
denominated, had no other expectation than the payment of
wages to the amount of from one thousand to four thousand
livres per annum, with clothing and provisions. The guides,

20 A General History of the Fur Trade.

who are avery useful set of men, actedalso in the additional
capacity of interpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods,
considered as sufficient for their wants, their wages being,

from one to three thousand livres. The canoe men are of

two descriptions, foremen and steersmen, and middlemen.:
The two first were allowed annually one thousand two hun,
dred, and the latter four hundred, livres each. The first

class had what is called an equipment, consisting of two.

blankets, two shirts, two pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs,
founeon pounds OE carrot tobacco, and some trifling articles,
The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and all the other arti-
cles: those are called North Men, or Winterers ; and to the
last class of people were attached upwards of seven hundred
Indian women aad children, victualled at the expense of
the company.

This first class of people are hired in Montreal five months
before they set out, and receive their equipment, and one

third of their wages in advance; and an adequate ideaof the

jabour they undergo may be formed from the following ac-

count of the country through which they pass, and their man-

ner of proceedin om

The necessary number of canoes being purchased, at about

three hundred livres each, the goods formed into packages,
and the lakesand rivers free of ice, which they usually are in
the beginning of May, they are then dispatched from La
Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight or ten men
in each canoe, and their baggage ; ; and sixty-five packages
of goods, six hundred weignt of biscuit, two hundred
weight of pork, three bushels of pease, for the men’s pro-
vision; two oil cloths to cover the goods, a sail, &e. an axe,
a towing line, a kettle, and a sponge to bail out the water,
with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair the
vessel, An European, on seeing one of these slender ves-

sels thus laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale within
six inches of the watery foes think his fate inevitable in

such a boat, when he reflected on the nature of her voyage;

but the Canadians are so expert, that few accidents happenj .
Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann’s, within two
miles of the Western extremity of the island of Montreal,
the lake of the two mountains being in sight, which may be
termed the commencement of the Utawas River. At the
rapid of St. Ann they are c bliged te take out part, if not the
whole of their lading. It is from this spot that the Cana-
dians. consider they take their departure, as it possesses the

_ A General History of the Fur. Trade. 21

Kast church on the island, which is dedicated to the tutelar
saint of voyages. . Oi |
- The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long,
but not more than three wide, and surrounded by cultivated
fields, except the Seignory belonging to the clergy, though
nominally in possession of the two tribes of Iroquois and
Algonquins, whose village is situated on a delightful point
of land under the hills, which, by the title of mountains,
give aname to the lake. Near the extremity of the point
their church is built, which divides the village in two parts,
- forming a regular angle along the water side. On the East
is the station of the Algonquins, and on the West, one of
the Iroquois, consisting in all of about five hundred war-
riors. Each party has its missionary, and divine worship is
performed according to the rites of the Roman Catholic
religion, in their respective languages, in the same church:
and so assiduous have their pastors been, that these people
have been instructed in reading and writing in their own
language, and are better instructed than the Canadian inha-
bitants of the country of the lower ranks: but notwith-
standing these advantages, and though the establishment is
nearly coeval with the colonization of the country, they do
not advance towards a state of civilization, but retain their
ancient habits, language, and customs, and are becoming
every day more depraved, indigent, and insignificant. The
country around them, though very capable of cultivation,
presents only a few miserable patches of ground, sown by
the women with maize and vegetables. Duringthe winter
season, they leave their habitations, and pious pastors, to fol-
low the chase, according to the custom of their forefathers.
Such 1s, indeed, the state of all the villages near the culti-
vated parts of Canada. But we shall now leave them to pro-
ceed on our voyage. :

_ At the end of the lake the water contracts into the Uta-
was River, which aftera course of fifteen miles,is interrupted
by a succession of rapids and cascades for upwards of ten
miles, at the foot of which the Canadian Seignoires termi-
nate ; and all above them were waste land, till the conclusion
of the American war, when they were surveyed by order
of government, and granted to the officers and men of the
eighty-fourth regiment, when reduced ; but principally to
the former, and consequently little inhabited, though very
capable of cultivation.

22 A General History of the Fur Trade. -

The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their ca4
noes, and carry the goods upon their backs, or rather sus-
pended in slings from their heads. Each man’s ordinary load
is two packages, though some carry three. Here the canoe
is towed by a strong line. ‘There are some places where
the ground will not admit of their carrying the whole ; they
then make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go
and land it at the distance required; and then return for
that which was left. In this distance are three carrying-
places, the length of which depends in a great measure upon
the state of the water, whether higher or lower; from the
last of these the river i about a mile and an half wide, and
has a regular current for about sixty miles, when it ends at
the first Portage de Chaudiere, where the body of water.
falls twenty-five feet, over cragged, excavated rocks, in a
most wild, romantic manner. At a small distance below,
the river Rideawon the left,falling over a perpendicular rock,
near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming the appearance
of a cuftain; and from which circumstance it derives its
name. ‘To this extent the lands have been surveyed, as be=
fore observed, and are very fit for culture. — loyalists:
are settled upon the river Rideau, and have, I am told;
thriving plantations. Some American families, preferring
the British territory, have also established themselves along.
a river on the opposite side, where the soil is excellent.
Nor do I think the period is far distant, when the lands
will become settled from this vicinity to Montreal. ee

Over this portage, which is six hundred and Griieshennte
paces long, the canoe and all the lading is carried. The
rock is so steep and difficult of access, that it requires twelve.
men to take the canoe out of the water: it is then carried
by six men, two at each end on the same Side, and two under
the opposite gunwale in the middle. From hence to the
next is but a short distance, in which they make two trips
to the second Portage de Chaudiere, which is seven hun-
dred paces, to carry the lading alone. From hence to the:
next and last Chaudiere, or Portage des Chenes is about six
miles, with a very strong current, where the goods are car-
ried seven hundred and forty paces 5 the canoe being towed,

up by the line, when the water is not very high. We now:
enter Lac des Chaudieres, which is computed to be thirty
miles in length. Though it is called a lake, there is a strong

draught downwards, and its breadth, is from two to four —

miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, over

A General History of the ¥ ur Trade. 22

which the canoe and lading are carried two hundred and
seventy-four paces ; and very difficult it is for the former.
The river is here barred by a ridge of black rocks, rising
in pinnacles and covered with wood, which, from the small
quantity, of soil that nourishes it, is ‘low and stinted. The
river finds its way over and through these rocks, in numer-
ous channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards. From hence
two trips are made through a serpentine channel, formed
by the rocks, for several miles, when the current slackens,
and is accordingly called the Lake des Chats. At the chan-
nels of the grand Calumet, which are computed to be at the
distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its strength,
and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which is two hundred
and forty-five paces long; over which the canoe and bag-
gage are transported. From hence the current becomes
more rapid, and requires two trips to the Décharge des Sa-
bles, * where the goods are carried one hundred and thirty-
five paces, and the canoe towed. ‘Then follows the Moun-
tain Portage, where the canoe and lading are also carried
three hundred and eighty-five paces; then to the Décharge
of the Derigé, where the goods are carried two hundred
and fifty paces; and thence tothe grand Calumet. This is
the longest carrying-place in this river, and is about two
thousand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or moun-
tain. From the upper part of this Portage the current is
steady, and is only a branch of the Utawas River, which
joins the main channel, that keeps a more Southern course,
at the distance of twelve computed leagues. Six leagues
farther it forms Lake Coulonge, which is about four leagues
in length: from thence it proceeds through the channels of
the Allumettes to the Décharge, where part of the lading is
taken out, and carried three hundred and forty-two paces.
Then succeeds the Portage des Allumettes, which is but
twenty-five paces, over a rock difficult of access, and but a
very short distance from the Décharge. From Portage de
Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting country, and the
land in many parts very fit for cultivation. J’rom hence the
river spreads wide, and is full of islands, with some current
for seven leagues, to the beginning of Riviere Creuse, or
Deep River, which runs in the form of a canal, about a

* The place where the goods alone are carried, is calied a Décharge,
and that where goods and canoes are both transported, overland, is deno-
minated a Portage.

E

24: A General Iisiory of the Fur Trade..

mile and an half wide, for about thirty-six miles ; ; bounded
upon the North by very high rocks, with low land on the
South, and sandy; it is intercepted again by. falls and cata-
racts, so that the Portages of the two Joachins almost join.
The first is nine hundred and twenty-six paces, the next
seven hundred and twenty, and both very bad roads. From

hence it is asteady current of nine miles to the River du
_ Moine, where there has generally been a trading-house ; the

stream then becomes strong for four leagues, when a rapid —

succeeds which requires two trips. A little way onward is
the Décharge, and close to it the Portage of the Roche ‘Ca-
pitaine, seven hundred and ninety-seven paces in length.
From hence two trips are made through a narrow channel
of the Roche Capitaine, made by an island four miles in
length. A strong current now succeeds, for about six
leagues to the Portage of the two rivers, which is about
eight hundred and twenty paces; from thence itis three
leagues to the Décharge of the Trou, which is three hun-
dred paces. Near adjoining is the rapid of Levellier; from
whence, including the rapids of Matawoen, where there is
no carrying-place, it is about thirty-six miles to the forks of
the same name; in latitude 463. North, and longitude 783.
West, and is at the computed distance of four hundred
miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite Riviere falls
into the Utawas. The latter comes from a North-Westerly
direction, forming several lakes in its course. The princi-
pal of them is Lake Temescamang, where there has always
been a trading post, which may be said to continue, by a
- succession of rivers and lakes, upwards of fifty leagues from
the Forks, passing near the waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in
latitude 482. which is received by the Moose River, that
empties itself into James Bay.

The Petite Riviere takes a South- West direction, is. full
of rapids and cataracts to its source, and is not more than
fiftcen leagues in length, in the course of which are the fol-
lowing interruptions—The Portage of Plein Champ, three
hundred and nineteen paces; the Décharge of the Rose,

one hundred and forty-five paces; the Décharge of Cam-
pion, one hundred and eighty-four paces ; the Portage of
the Grosse Roche, one hundred and fifty paces ; the Portage
of Paresseux, four hundred and two paces; the Portage of
Priarie, two hundred and eighty-seven paces ; the Portage
of La Cave, one hundred paces ; Portage ot Talon, two
hundred and seventy-five paces ; which, for its length, is the
worst on the communication; Portage Pin de Musique,

A General History of the Fur Trade. Qe

four hundred and fifty-six paces; next to this is Mauvis de
Musique, where many men have been crushed to death by
. canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries.
The last in this river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three
paces, on entering the lake of that name, where, indeed, the
river may be said to take its source. At the first vase from
whence to the great river, the country has the appearance of —
having been over-run by fire, and consists in generai of huge
rocky hills. The distance of this Portage, which is the
height of land, between the waters of the St. Laurence and
the Utawas, is one thousand five hundred and thirteen paces
to a small canal in a plain, that is just sufficient to carry the
loaded canoe about one mile to the next vase, which is seven
hundred and twenty-five paces. It would be twice this dis-
tance, but the narrow creek is dammed in the beaver iashion,
to float the canoes to this barrier, through which they. pass,
when the river is just sufficient to bear them through a
swamp of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and
twenty-four paces in length. ‘Though the river is increas-
ed in this part, some care is necessary to avoid rocks and
stumps of trees. In about six miles is the lake Nepisingui,
which is computed to be twelve leagues long, though the
route of the canoes is something more: it is about fifteen
miles wide in the widest part, and bounded with rocks. Its
inhabitants consist of the remainder of a numerous convert-
ed tribe, called Nepisinguis of the Algonquin nation. Out
of it flows the Riviere des Francois, over rocks of a con-
siderable height. In a bay to the East of this, the road
leads over the Portage of the Chaudiere des Francois, five
hundred and forty-four paces, to still water. It must have
acquired the name of Kettle, from a great number of holes
in the solid rock of a cylindrical form, and not unlike that
culinary utensil. They are observable in many parts along
strong bodies of water, and where, at certain seasons, and
distinct periods, it is well known the water inundates ; at
the bottom of them are generally found a number of small
stones and pebbles. This circumstance justifies the con-
clusion, that at some former period these rocks formed the
bed of a branch of the discharge of this lake, although some
of them are upwards of ten feet above the present level of
the water at its greatest height. ‘They are, indeed, to be
seen along every great river throughout this wide extended
country. ‘The French river is very irregular, both as to its
breadth and form, and is so interspersed with islands, that

26 A General History of the Fur Trade.

in the whole course of it the banks are seldom visible. Of
its various channels, that which is generally followed by the
canoes is obstructed by the following Portages, viz. des
Pins, fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty-six paces; Parisi-
enne, one hundred paces; Recolet, forty-five paces; and
the Petite Feausille, twenty-five paces. In several parts
there are guts or channels, where the water flows with great
velocity, which are not more than twice the breadth of a
canoe. The distance of Lake Huron is estimated at twenty-
five leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53.

North, that is, at the point of land three or four miles with-
if the lake: There is hardlv a foot of soil to be seen from
one end of the French river to the other, its banks consist-
ing of hills of entire rock. [he coast of the lake is the
same, but lower, backed at some distance by high lands.
The course runs through numerous islands to the North of
West to the river Tessalon, computed to be about fifty
leagues from the French river, and which I found to be in
latitude 46. 12. 21. North ; and, from thence crossing, from
istand to island, the arm of the lake that receives the water
' of Lake Superior (which continues the same course) the
route changes to the South of West ten leagues to the De-
tour, passing the end of the island of St. Joseph, within six
miles of the former place. On that island there has been a
military establishment since the upper posts were given up
to the Americans in the year 1794; and is the Westernmost
military position which we have in this country. It is a
place of no trade, and the greater part, if not the whole of

the Indians, come here for no other purpose but to receive

the presents which our government annually allows them.
They are from the American territory (except about thirty

families, who are the inhabitants of the lake from the French

river, and of the Algonquin nation) and trade in their-pel-

tries, as they used formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but

principally with British subjects. The Americans pay them

very little attention, and tell them that they keep possession

of their country by right of conquest: that, as their brothers,
they will be. friends with them while they deserve it; and
that their traders will bring them every kind of goods they
require, which they may procure by their industry.

Our commanders treat them in a very different manner,
and, under the character of the representatives of their fa-
ther; (which parental title the natives give to his present
Majesty, the common father of all his people) present them
with such things as the actual state of their stores will allow.

A General History of the Fur Trade. _ 27

» How far this conduct, if continued, may, ata future exi-
gency, keep these people in our interest, if they are even
worthy ‘of it, is not an object of my present consideration :
at the same time, I cannot avoid expressing my perfect con-
Viction, that it would not be of the least advantage to our
present or future commerce in that country, or to the
people themselves; as it only tends to keep many of them
mm a state of idleness about our military establishments.
The ammunition which they receive is employed to kill
game, in order to procure rum in return, though their fami-
lies may be in a starving condition: hence it is, that, in
consequence of slothful and dissolute lives, their numbers
are in a very perceptible state of diminution.

From the Detour to the Island of Michilimakinac, at the
confluence of the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 43.
54. North, is about forty miles. ‘l’o keep the direct course
to Lake Superior, the north shore from the river Tessalon
should be followed ; crossing to the North-West end of St.
_ Joseph, and passing between it and the adjacent islands,

which makes a distance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary,
at the foot of which, upon the South shore, there is a vil-
lage, formerly a place of great resort for the inhabitants of
‘Lake Superior, and consequently of considerable trade: it
is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced to
about thirty families, of the Algonquin nation, who are one
half of the year starving, and the other half intoxicated, and
-ten or twelve Canadians, who have been in the Indian
country from an early period of life, and intermarried with
the natives, who have brought them families. Their induce-
ment to settle there, was the great quantity of white fish
that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little
trouble, particularly in the autumn, when that fish leaves the
lakes, and comes to the running and shallow waters to
spawn. ‘These, when salt can be procured, are pickled just
as the frost sets in, and prove very good food with potatoes,
which they have of late cultivated with success. The natives
live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the tails, and
preserve throughout the winter, or at least as long as they
last; for whatever quantity they may have taken, it is never
known that their-economy is such as to make them last
through the winter, which renders their situation very dis-
tressing; for if they had activity sufficient to pursue the la- |
bours of the chase, the woods are become so barren of game
as to afford them no great prospect of relief. In the spring of

28 - AGeneral History of the Fur Trade.

the year they, and the other inhabitants, make a quantity of
sugar from the maple tree, which they exchange with the
traders for necessary articles, or carry it to Michilimakinac,
where they expect a better price. One of these traders
was agent for the North-West Company, receiving, stor-
ing, and forwarding such articles as come by the way of
the lakes upon their vessels: for it is to be observed, “that
a quantity of their goods are sent by that route from Mont-
real in boats to Kingston at the entrance of Lake Ontario,
and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then over land ten
miles to a water communication, by boats, to Lake Erie,
where they are again received into vessels, and carried over
that lake up the river Detroit, through the lake and river
Sinclair to Lake Huron, and ‘from thence to the Falls of
St. Mary’s, when they are again landed and carried for a
mile above the falls, and shipped over Lake Superior to the
Grande Portage. ‘This is found to be a less expensive me-
thed than by canoes, but attended with more risk, and re-
quiring more time, than one short season of this country
will admit; for the goods are always sent from Montreal
the preceding fall; and besides, the company get their
provisions from Tybroit. as flour and Indian corn; as also
considerable supplies from Michilimakinac of maple sugar,
tallow, gum, &c. &c.

For the purpose of conveying all these things, they have.
two vessels upon the Lakes Erie and Huron, and one on
Lake Superior, of from fifty to seventy tons burthen. This.
being, therefore, the depot for transports, the Montreal
canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over Lake Supe-
rior, with only five men in each; the others were sent to
Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were required
to prosecute the trade, and then take a lading there, or at
St. Mary’s, and follow the others. At length they all ar-
rive at the Grande Portage, which is one hundred and sixty
leagues from, St. Mary’s, coastways, and situated on a plea-
sant bay on the North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North
and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, where the com-
pass has not above five degrees East variation.

At the entrance of the bay is an island which screens on
beppour from every wind except the South. The shallow-
ness of the water, however, renders it necessary for the
vessel to anchor near a mile from the shore, where there is
not more than fourteen feet water. This lake justifies the
name that has been given to it: the Falls of St. Mary, which

A General History of the Fur Trade. 29

is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North,
and in longitude 84. West, where there is no variation of
the compass whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the
River St. Louis, is in latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude
92.10. West: its greatest breadth is one hundred and twenty
miles, and its circumference, including its various bays, 1s
not less than one thousand two hundred miles. Along its
North shore is the safest navigation, as it is a continued
mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to
one thousand five hundred feet in height. There are nu-
merous coves and sandy bays to land, which are frequently
sheltered by islands from the swell of the lake. This is
particularly the case at the distance of one. hundred miles to
the Eastward of the Grande Portage, and is called the Pays
Plat... sheds es ;

“This seems to have been caused by some convulsion of
nature, for many of the islands display a composition of lava,
intermixed with round stones of the size of a pigeon’s egg.
The surrounding rock is generally hard, and of a dark blue-
grey, though it frequently has the appearance of iron and
copper. ‘The South side of the lake, from Point Shagoimigo
East, is almost a continual straight line of sandy beach, in-
terspersed with rocky precipices of lime-stones, sometimes
rising to an hundred feet in height, withouta bay. The
embankments from that point Westward are, in general, of
strong clay, mixed with stones, which renders the naviga-
tion irksome and dangerous. On the same side, at the
River Tonnagan, is found a quantity of virgin copper. The
Americans, soon after they got possession of that country,
sent an engineer thither; and I should not be surprized to
hear of their employing people to work the mine. Indeed, it
might be well worthy the attention of the British subjects to
work the mines on the North coast, though they are not
supposed to be so rich as those on the South.

Lake Superior is the largest and most magnificent body
of fresh water in the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great
depth, and abounding in a great variety of fish, which are
the most excellent of their kind. There are trouts of three
kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds, sturgeon, pick-
erel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, herrings, &c. &c.
and the last and best of all, the Ticamang, or white fish,
which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, and is of a su-
perior quality in these waters.

30 A General History of the Fur Trade.

This lake may be denominated the grand reservoirrof the
River St. Laurence, as no considerable rivers discharge
themselves into it. The principal ones are, the St. Louis,
the Nipigon, the Pic, and the Michipicoten. Indeed, the
extent of country from which any of them flow, or take
their course, in any direction, cannot admit of it, in conse-
quence of the ridge of land that separates them from the
rivers that empty themselves into Hudson’s Bay, the gulph

of Mexico, and the waters that fall into Lake Michigan, ©

which afterwards become a part of the St. Laurence.
This vast collection of water is often covered with fog,

particularly when the wind is from the East, which, driving

against the high barren rocks on the North and West shore,
dissolves in torrents of rain. It is very generally said, that
the storms on this lake are denoted by a swell on the pre-
‘ceding day; but this circumstance did not appear from my
observation to be a regular phenomenon, as the swelis more
frequently subsided without any subsequent wind.

Along the surrounding rocks of this immense lake, evi-
dent marks appear of the decrease of its water, by the lines
observable along them. The space, however, between the
highest and the lowest, is not so great as in the smaller
lakes, as it does not amount to more than six feet, the for-
mer being very faint.

The inhabitants that are found along the coast of hie wa-
ter, are all of the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do
not exceed 150 families.*

These people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from what hat
been said of the country, it cannot be expected to abound in
animals, as it 1s totally destitute of that shelter, which is so
necessary to them. ‘The rocks appear to have been over-
run by fire, and the stinted timber, which once grew there,
is frequently seen lying along the surface of them: but it
is not easy to be reconciled, that any thing should grow
where there is so little appearance of soil. Between the
fallen trees there are briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry
bushes, raspberries, &c. which invite the bears in greater
or lesser numbers, as they are a favourite food of that ani-

* In the year 1668, when the first missionaries visited the South of this
Jake, they found the country full of inhabitants. They relate, that about
this time a band of the Nepisingues, who were converted, emigrated to
the Nipigon country, which is to the North of Lake Superior. Few of
their descendants are now remaining, and not a trace of the religion com-
municated to them is to be discovered.

A General History of the Fur Trade. 31

yond these rocky banks are found a few moose and
: The waters alone are abundantly inhabited. —
_ A&A very curious phenomenon was observed some years
ago at the Grande Portage, for which no obvious cause
could be assigned. The water withdrew with great precipi-
tation, leaving the ground dry that had never before been
visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, and
rushing back with great velocity above the common mark.
It continued thus failmg and rising for several hours, gradu-
ally decreasing until it stopped at its usual height. ‘There
is frequently an irregular influx and deflux, which does not
exceed ten inches, and is attributed to the wind.
. The bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is
cleared of wood and inclosed ; and on the left corner of it,
_ beneath an hill, three or four hundred feet in height, and
crowned by others of a still greater altitude, is the fort,
picketed in with cedar pallisadoes, and inclosing houses built
with wood and covered with shingles.. They are calculated
for every convenience of trade, as well as to accommodate
the proprietors and clerks during their short residence there.
‘The North men live under tents: but the more frugal pork-
eater lodges beneath his canoe. ‘The soil immediately bor-
dering on the lake has not proved very propitious, as nothing
but potatoes have been found to answer the trouble of culti-
vation. This circumstance is probably owing to the cold
damp fogs of the lake, and the moisture of the ground from
the springs that issue from beneath the hills. There are
meadows in the vicinity that yield abundance of hay for the
cattle; but, as to agriculture, it has not hitherto been an
object of serious consideration.
_ I shall now leave these geographical notices, to give some
further account of the people from Montreal.— When they
are arrived at the Grande Portage, which is near nine miles
over, each of them has to carry eight packages of such goods
and provisions as are necessary for the interior country.
This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently perform
im summer, as both horses and oxen were tried by the com-
pany without success. They are only useful for light, bulky
articles ; or for transporting upon slédges, during the win-
ter, whatever goods may remain there, especially provision,
of which it is usual to have a year’s stock on hand. |
_ Having finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more
' goods are necessary to be transported, they are allowed a
Spanish dollar for each package: and so inured are they to
F

ale
af:

32 A General History of the Fur Trade.

this kind of labour, that I have known some of them’set off |

with two packages of ninety pounds each, and return with
two others of the same weight, in the course of six hours,
being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and mountams.

This necessary part of the business being over, if the season

be early they have some respite, but this depends upon the |

time the North men begin to arrive from their winter quar-
ters, which they commonly do early in July. At this pe-
riod, it 1s necessary to select from the pork-eaters a num-
ber of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers,
sufficient to man the North canoes necessary to carry to the
river of the rainy lake, the goods and provision requisite
for the Athabasca country; as the people of that country

(owing to the shortness of the season and length of the

road, can come no further) are equipped there, and exchange
ladings with the people of &hom we are speaking, and both
return from whence they came. This voyage is performed
in the course of a month, and they are wrnionas) proportion-
able wages for their services. Vat

The North men being arrived at the Granite Portage, are

regaled with bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and
such as have not entered into agreements during the winter,
which is customary, are contracted with, to return and per-
form the voyage for one, two, or three years: their accounts
are also settled, and suchas choose to send any of their earn-

ings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their relations

or friends: and as soon as they can be got ready, which re-
quires no more than a fortnight, they are again dispatched
to their respective departments. It is, indeed, very credit-
able to them as servants, that though they are sometimes
assembled to the number of twelve hundred men, indulging
themselves in the free use of liquor, and quarrelling with
each other, they always show the greatest respect to their
employers, ,who are comparatively but few in number, and
beyond the aid of any legal power to enforce due obedience.
In short, a degree of subordination can only be maintained
by the good opinion these men entertain of their employers,
which has been uniformly the case, since the trade si been
formed and conducted on a regular system. | ak

‘The people being dispatched to their respective winter
quarters, the agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks,
prepare to return there, by getting ‘the furs across the port-
age, and re-making them into packages of one hundred
pounds weight each, to send them to Montreal; where they
commonly arrive in ‘the month of September.

\

AGéneral History of the. Fur Trade. . 38
» The mode of living at the Grande Portage, is as follows:
proprietors, clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess to-
gether, to the number of sometimes an hundred, at several
tables, im one large hall, the provision consisting of bread,
salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and venison, butter, peas, In-
- dian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine, &c. and plenty of
milk, for which purpose several milch cows are constantly
kept. The mechanics have rations of such provision, but
the canoe-men, both from the North and Montreal, have
no other allowance here, or in the voyage, than Indjan corn
and melted fat. The corn for this purpose is prepared be-
fore it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali, which
takes off the outer husk ; it is then well washed, and care-
fully dried upon stages, when it is fit for use. One quart
of this is boiled for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a
gallon of water; to which, when it has boiled a small time,
are added two ounces of melted suet; this causes the corn
to split, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty thick
pudding. If to this is added a little salt (but not before it
is boiled, as it would interrupt the operation) it makes an
wholesome, palatable food, and easy of digestion. This
quantity is fully sufficient for a man’s subsistence during
twenty-four hours ; though it is not sufficiently heartening
to sustain the strength necessary for a state of active labour.
‘The Americans call this dish hominee.*
_ The trade from the Grande Portage, is, in some particu-
Jars, carried on in a different manner with that from Mont-
real. The canoes used in the latter transport are now too
large for the former, and some of about half the size are
procured from the natives, and are navigated by four, five,
or six men, according to the distance which they have to
go. They carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an
average ; of these twenty-three are for the purpose of trade,
and the rest are employed for provisions, stores, and bag-
gage. In each of these canoes are a foreman and steersman ;
the one to be always on the look out, and direct the passage
of the vessel, and the other to attend thehelm. They also
carry her, whenever that office isnecessary. The foreman
i; the command, and the middlemen obey both ; the lat-
ter earn only two-thirds of the wages which are paid the two

_ * Corn is the cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the
- expense of transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling, at:
the Grande Portage. A man’s daily allowance does not exceed ten-
pence. Ws) ss
&

~

34 A General History of the. Fur Trade.

former. Independent of these, a conductor or pilot is m2
pointed to every four or six of these canoes, whom they at
all obliged to obey ; and is, or at least is intended to be, a
person ol superior per cee. for which he is proportion
ably paid. at
_ In these canoes, venarer loaded, they cdi at the North
side of the portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very
inconsiderable ; and after about two wiles’ of a Westerly
course, is obstructed by the partridge Portage, six hundred
paces long. In the spring this makes a considerable fall,
when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of one
hundred and twenty feet. From thence'the river continues
to be shallow, and requires great care to prevent the bottom
of the canoe from being injured by sharp rocks, for asdis-
tance of three miles and an half to the Priarie, or Mea-
dow, when half the lading-is taken out, and ‘carried by part |
of the crew, while two of them are conducting’ the canoe.
among the rocks, with the remainder, to ‘the Carrebocuf
Portage, three miles and an half more, when they unload
and come back two miles, and embark what was left forthe
other hands to carry, which they also land with the former ;
all of which is carried six hundred and ‘eighty’ paces, ' and
the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence the water
4s bétter calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding
course to the North of West three miles to the Outward
Portage, over which the canoe, and every thing in her, is
carried for two thousand four hundred paces. At the far-
ther end is a very high hill to descend, over which hangs a
rock upwards of seven hundred feet | high. Then succeeds the
Outward Lake, about six miles long, lying ina North-West
course, and about two miles wide in the broadest part. After
passing a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage.
over which the canoe and lading are again carried one thousand
one hundred and twenty paces; when | they enter the lake ‘of
the same name, which is an handsome piece of water, run-
ning North-West about four miles, and not more than ei
mile and an half wide.* ‘They then land at the Portage
Cerise, over which, and in the face of a considerabl hill,
- the canoe and cargo are again transported for one thousand
and. fifty paces. This is only separated from the second
Portage de Cerise, by | a mud-pond (where there is plenty of
water lilies) of a quarter of a mile in oi 3-and this is

* Here is a most excellent swe for white fish, which are es eyelet

| +%
A General History of the Fur Trade. 35

again separated. by a similar pond, from the last Portage de
Gerise, which is four hundred and ten paces. Here the
- game operation is to be performed for three hundred and
eighty paces. They next enter on the Mountain Lake, run-
ning North-West by West six miles long, and about two
miles in its greatest breadth: In the centre of this lake,
and to the right is the Old Road, by which I never passed ;
but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the road I
am going to describe, and which is universally preferred.
‘This is first, the small new portage over which every thing
is carried for six hundred and twenty-six paces, over hills
and gullies: the whole is then embarked on a narrow line of
water, that meanders South-West about two miles and an
half... It is necessary to unload here, for the length of the
canoe, and then proceed West half a mile, to the new
Grande Portage, which is three thousand one hundred pa-
ces in length, and over very rough ground, which requires
the utmost exertions of the men, and frequently lames them:
from hence they approach the Rose Lake, the portage of
thatname being opposite to the junction of the read from the
Mountain Lake. They then embark on the Rose Lake,
about one mile from the East end of it, and steer West by
South, in an oblique course, across it'two miles ; then West-
North-West passing the Petite Peche to the Marten Por-
tage three miles. In this part of the lake the bottom is mud
and slime, with about three or four feet of water over it;
and here. I frequently struck acanoe pole of twelve feet long,
without meeting any other obstruction than if the whole
were water: it has, however, a peculiar suction or attrac-
tive power, so that it is difficult to paddle-a canoe over it.
There is a small space along the South shore, where the
ne is deep, and this effect is not felt. In proportion to
he distance from this part, the suction becomes more pow-
erful: Ihave, indeed, been told that loaded canoes have
been in danger of being swallowed up, and have only owed.
their preservation to other canoes, which were lighter. I
have, myself, found it very difficult to get away from this
attractive power, with six men, and great exertion, though
we did not appear to be in any danger of -sinking.
__ Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South
‘side, called Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long,
and separated from the Perche Portage, which is four hun-
dred and elghty paces, by a mud-pond, covered with white
ilies. From hence the course is on the lake of the same
name, West-South- West three miles to the height of land,

#*
: f
36 A General History of ‘the Fur: Trade.

where the waters; of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate,
and which is one of the sources of the great St. Laurence
an this direction. Having carried the canoe and lading over
it, six hundred and seventy-nine paces, they embark on the
ik, of Hauteur de Terre,* which is in the shape: ofan
horse- shoe. It is entered near the curve, and left at the ex
tremity of the Western limb, through a very shallow chan-
nel, where the canoe passes half loaded for thirty paces with
the current, which conducts these waters through the suc-
ceeding, lakes and rivers, and disembogues itself, by the river
Nelson, into Hudson’s Bay. The first of | these Gg! Lac de
Pierres a Fusil, running West-South-West seven miles long,
and two wide, ‘and, making an angle at North-West one
mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a
rock, and forming.a fall and portage, called the Escalter, of
fifty-five paces ; but from hence it is neither lake or river,
but possesses the character of both, and runs between large
rocks, which cause a current or rapid, for about two miles
and an half, West-North-West, to the portage of ‘the Che-
‘val du, Bois. Here the canoe and contents:are carried three
hundred and eighty paces, between. rocks; and within’a
quarter of a mile is the Portage des Gros Pins, which 4s 5ix
hundred and forty paces over an high ridge. ‘The opposite
side of it is washed by a small lake three miles round; and
the course is through the East end or side.of it, three quar-
ters of 4 mile North-East, where there is a rapid. ~ An ir-
regular, meandering channel; between rocky’ banks, then
succeeds, for seven miles and: an half, te the Maraboeuf
Lake, which extends North four miles, and is three quarters:
of a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and décharge, of one
hundred and eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga’being in
sight, which causes a fall of about seven feet, aac a ermal
of fifty-five paces. Sti a
Lake Saginaga takes its name from 1 its numerous Islands.
Its greatest length from East to West is about fourteenmiles,
with very irregular inlets, is no where more than three miles
wide, and terminates at the small portage of Le Roché, of
forty-three paces. From thence is a rocky, stony passage
a one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very impropgy

_ * The route ich we have been oe hitherto, | lad sicbialiiine
ni rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on the left. The face of. am

AR AT

peat -

£ ihe :

{

A General Mistory of the Fur Trade. 37

named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that
description, except a small spot at the embarking place at
the West end: to the East is an entire bog; and it is with
ees, that the lading can be landed upon stages,

ned by driving piles into the mud, and spreading branches
of trees over them. ‘The portage rises on a stony ridge,
over which the canoe and cargo must be carried for six hun-
dred and eleven paces. This is succeeded by an embarka-
tion ona small bay, where the bottom is the same as has
been described in the West end of Rose Lake, and it is with
great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked over it, but it
_ does not comprehend more than a distance of two hundred
yards. From hence the progress continues through irregu-
lar channels, bounded by rocks, in a Westerly course for
about five miles, to the little Portage des Couteaux, of one
hundred and sixty-five paces, and the Lac des Couteaux, run-
ning about South-West by West twelve miles, and froma quar-
ter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three miles
from the West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river,
and after running two miles West, it again becomes still
water. In this river are two carrying-places, the one filteen,
and the other one hundred and ninety paces. From this to

the Portage des Carpes is one mile North-West, leaving a
narrow lake on the East that runs parallel with the Lake des
Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place,
which is used when the water in the river last mentioned is
too low. The Portage des Carpes is three hundred and
ninety paces, from whence the water spreads irregularly be
_ tween rocks, five miles North-West and South-East to the
portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty
paces. ‘Then follows the lake of that name, but I think im-
properly so called, as the natives name it the Lake Passeau
Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry Berries.

Before the small-pox ravaged this country, and complet-
ed, what the Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to”
accomplish, the destruction of its inhabitants, the popula-
tion was very numerous: this was also a favourite part,
where they made their canoes, &c. the lake abounding in
fish, the country round it being plentifully supplied with va-
rious kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the
boundaries of the water, covered witha variety of berries.

~ When the French were in possession of this country, they
had several trading establishments on the islands and banks
of this lake. Since that period, the few people remaining,
who were of the Algonquin nation, could hardly find sub-

i * | t
38 A General History of the Fur nike

sistence; game having become so scarce, that they depend-
ed principally for food upon fish, and wildy rice, weit grows
spontaneously i in these parts. +4 be meh

‘This lake is irregular in its form, and its nena extent
from East to West is fifteen miles ; a point of land, called
Point au Pin, jutting into it, divides it in two parts: it then
makes a second angle at the West end, to the lesser Portage

de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in. . length. This channel -

is not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids in the course
of a mile: it runs West-North-West to the Portage des
Pins, over which the canoe and lading is again carried four
hundred paces. Fromhence the channel is also: intercepted
by very dangerous rapids for two miles Westerly, to the
point of Pointe du Bois, which is two hundred and eighty
paces. ‘Then succeeds the portage of Lake Croche one
mile more, where the carrying-place 1s eighty paces, and is
followed by an embarkation on that lake, which takes its
name from its figure. It extends eighteen miles, ina mean-

dering form, and in a westerly direction; it is in general

very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its wens becomes
very contracted, with a strong current.

Within three miles of the last Portage is a remarkable :

rock, with a smooth face, but split and cracked in different
parts, which hang over the water. Into one of its horizon-
tal chasms a great number of arrows have been shot, which

is said to have been done by a war party of the Nadowasis

or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and
left these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives,

that, notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, 1t was not

inaccessible to their enemies.

' Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Roleae,
four hundred paces long, and derives its name from the
appearance of the water, falling over a rock of upwards of
thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with intervals of still
water, for about three miles to the Saleod portage, ‘which is
very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the
Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about
North-West eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then
sinks into a deep bay nearly East. The course to the Por
tage is West by North for sixteen miles more from the Bea-
ver Dam, and into the East bay is a road which was fre-
quented by the French, and followed through lakes and ri-
vers until they came to ‘Lake Superior by the river Camin-
istiquia, = miles East of the Grande ‘Por vee

{

y General History of the Fur Trade. 39

_ Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: to the next
portage is a quarter of a mile, and its length is forty paces ;
the river winding four miles to Vermillion Lake, which
runs six or seven miles North-North-West, and by a nar-
row strait communicates with Lake Namaycan, which takes
its name from a particular place at the foot of a fall, where
the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is about ‘North-
North-West and South-South-East, with a bay running
Fast, that gives it the form of a triangle : its length is
about sixteen miles to the Nouvelle Portage. The discharge
of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one
hundred and eighty paces, to which succeeds a very small
river, from whence there is but a short distance to the next
Nouvelle Portage, three hundred and twenty paces long.
It is then necessary to embark on a swamp, or overflowed
country, where wild rice grows in great abundance. There
is a channel or small river in the centre of this swamp,
which is kept with difficulty, and runs South and North one
mile and a half. With deepening water, the course conti-
nues North-North-West one mile to the Chaudiere Por-
tage, which is caused by the discharge of the waters run-
ning on the left of the road from Lake Naymaycan, which
used to be the common route, but that which I have describ-
ed is the safest as well as the shortest. From hence there
is some current though the water is wide spread, and its
course about North by West three miles and a half to the
Lac de la Pluie, which lies nearly East and West; from
thence about fifteen miles is a narrow strait that divides the
lake into two unequal parts, from whence to its discharge is
a distance of twenty-four miles. There is a deep bay run-
ning North-West on the right, that is not included, and is
remarkable for furnishing the natives with a kind of soft, red
stone, of which they make their pipes; it also affords an
excellent fishery both in summer and winter; and from it is.
an easy, safe, and short road to the Lake du Bois, (which I
shall mention presently) for the Indians to pass in their
small canoes, through a small lake and on a small river,
whose banks furnish abundance of wild rice. ‘Vhe discharge
of this lake is called Lake de la Pluie River, at whose en-
trance there is a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where
there had been an extensive picketed fort and building
when possessed by the French: the site of it is at present
a beautiful meadow, surrounded with groves of oaks. From
fence there is a strong current for two miles, where the wa-

G

i?

40 A General History of the Fur Trade.

ter falls over a rock twenty feet, and, from the consequent
turbulence of the water, the carrying-place, which is three
hundred and twenty paces long, derives the name of Chau-
diere. Two miles onward is the present trading establish-
ment, situated on a high bank on the North side of the ris
ver, in 48. 37. North latitude.

Here the people from Montreal come to meet those wis
arrive from the Athabasca country, as has been already de-
scribed, and exchange lading with them. This is also the
residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of all the Algonquin
tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this country. He is
by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal pre-
eminence. Here also the elders meet in council to treat of
peace or war.

This is one of the finest rivers in the North-West, and
runs a course West and East one hundred and twenty com-
puted miles ; but in taking its course and distance minutely
{ make it only eighty. Its banks are covered with a rich
soil, particularly to the North, which, in many parts, ‘are
clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the
pine, and the cedar. ‘The Southern bank’ is not so elevated,

and displays the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with

the spruce, the alder, and various underwood. Its waters:
abound in fish, particularly the sturgeon, which the natives
both spear and take with drag-nets. But notwithstanding
the promise of this soil, the Indians do not attend to its eul-
tivation, though they are not ignorant of the common pro-

cess, and are fond of the Indian corn, when they can gets wt

from us.
Though the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, there is a gar-

den, which, unassisted as it is by manure, or any Ha dickens

attention, is tolerably productive. —

We now proceed to mention the Lake du Bois, 10

which this river discharges itself in latitude 49. North, and
was formerly famous for the richness of its banks and wa-
ters, which abounded with whatever was necessary to a
savage life. ‘The French had several settlements 1n and
about it; but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal
circumstance had destroyed the game, as war and the small-
pox had diminished the inhabitants, it having been very un-
productive in animals since the British subjects have been
engaged in travelling through it; though it now appears to
be recovering its pristine state. The few Indians who in-
habit it might live very comfortably, if they were not so im-
moderately fond of spirituous liquors.

¢

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Cw,
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a
A

y General History of the Fur Trade. 41

_ This lake is also rendered remarkable, in consequence of
-the Americans having named it as the spot, from which a

_ line of boundary, between them and British America, was
to run West, until it struck the Missisippi; which, how-
ever, can never happen, as the North-West part of the Lake
du Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94. 31.
West, and the Northernmost branch of the source of the
Missisippi is in latitude 47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6.
West, ascertained by Mr. Thomson, astronomer to the
North-West Company, who was sent expressly for that
purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same year, de-
termined the Northern bend of the Missisoury to be in la-
titude 47. 32. North, and jonas 101. 25. West; and,
according to the Indian accounts, it runs to the South of
West, so that if the Missisoury were even to be considered
as the Missisippi, no Western line could strike it.

_ It does not appear to me to be clearly determined what
course the line is to take, or from what part of Lake Superi-
or it strikes through the country to the Lake du Bois: were

- it to follow the principal waters to their source, it ought to
keep through Lake Superior to the River St. Louis, and
follow that river to its source ; close to which is the source
of the waters falling into the river of Lake la Pluie, which
is acommon route of the Indians to the Lake du Bois: the
St. Louis passes within a short distance of a branch of the
Missisippi, where it becomes navigable for canoes. This

-will appear more evident.from consulting the map; and if
the navigation of the Missisippi is considered as of any |
consequence, by this country, from that part of the globe,
such is the nearest way to get at it.

_ But to return to our narrative. ‘The Lake du Bois is,as
far as I could learn, nearly round, and the canoe course

_ through the centre of it among a cluster of islands, some of

_ which are so extensive that they may be taken for the main

land. ‘The reduced course would be nearly South and
North. But following the navigating course, I make the dis-
tance seventy-five miles, thoughina direct line it would fall
very short of that length. At about two-thirds of it there
is asmall carrying-place, when the water islow. The carry-
ing-place out of the lake is on an island, and named Portage
du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 944. West;
it is about fifty paces long. The lake discharges itself at
both ends of this island, and forms the River Winipic, which
is a large body of water, interspersed with nymerous islands,

a
42 A General History of the Fur Trade.

causing various channels and interruptions of portages and
rapids. In some parts it has the appearance of lakes, with
steady currents ; I estimate its winding course to the Dalles
eight miles; to the Grande Décharge twenty-five miles and
an half, which is a long carrying-place for the goods ; from
thence to the little Décharge one mile and an half; to the
Terre Jatne Portage two miles and an half; then to its ga-
let seventy yards ; two miles and three quarters to the Terre
Blanche, near which is a fall of from four to five feet ; three
miles and an half to Portage de L’Isle, where there is a
trading-post, and, about eleven miles, on the North shore,
a trading establishment, which is the road, in boats, to Al-
bany River, and from thenge to Hudson’s Bay. © There is
also a communication with Lake Superior, through what is
called the Nipigan country, which enters that Lake about
thirty-five leagues East of the Grande Portage. In short,
the country is so broken by lakes and rivers, that people may

find their way in canoes in any direction they please. It is

now four miles to Portage de L’Isle, which is but short,
though several canoes have been lost in attempting to run
the rapid. From thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob’s
Falls, which are about fifteen feet high ; and six miles and
an half to the woody point ; forty yards from which is ano-
ther Portage. They both form an high fall, but not perpen-
dicular. From thence to another galet, or rocky Portage,
is about two miles, which is one continual rapid and asia
and about two miles further is the Chute a Esclave, which
is upwards of thirty feet. ‘The Portage is long, through a
point covered with wood: it is six miles and an half more
to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From
thence, on the North side, is a safe road, when the waters
are high, through small rivers and lakes, to the Lake du
Bonnet, called the Pinnawas, from the man who discover-
edit: to the White River, so called from its being, for a
considerable length, a succession of falls and cataracts, is
twelve miles. Here are seven portages, in so short a space,
that the whole of them are discernible at the same moment.
From this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four
miles across it to the rapid. Herethe Pinnawas road joins,
and from thence it is two miles to the Galet du Lac du Bon-
net; from this to the Galet du Bonnet one mile and an half ;
thence to the Portage of the same name is three miles. ‘This
Portage is near half a league in length, and derives itsname
from a custom the Indians have of crowning stones, laid ina

. |
A General History of the Fur Trade. 43

circle, on the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths of
herbage and branches. There have been examples of men
taking seven packages of ninety pounds each, at one end of
the portage, and putting them down at the other without
stopping.

To this, another small portage immediately succeeds, over

a rock producing a fall. From thence to the fall of Terre
Blanche is two miles and an half; to the first portage Des
Eaux qui Remuentis three miles ; to the next, of the same
namie, is but a few yards distant; to the third and last, which
isa Décharge, is three miles and an half; and from this to
the last Portage of the river one mile and an half ; and to the
establishment, or provision houge, is two miles and an half.
Here also the French had their principal inland depot, and
got their canoes made.

It is here, that the present traders, going to great distan-
ces, and where provision is difficult to procure, receive a
supply to carry them to the Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior.
From the establishment to the entrance of Lake Winipic is
four miles and an half, latitude 50.37, North. |

The country, soil, produce, and climate, from Lake Su-
perior to this place, bear a general resemblance, with a pre-
dominance of rock and water: the former is of the granite
kind. Where there is any soil, itis well covered with wood,
ie as oak, elm, ash of different kinds, maple of two kinds,
' pines of various descriptions, among which are what I call
the cypress, with the hickory, iron-wood, liard, poplar, ce-
dar, black and white birch, &c. &c. Vast quantities of wild
rice are seen throughout the country, which the natives col-
lect in the month of August for their winter stores.* To
the North of fifty degrees it is hardly known, or at least
does not come to maturity.

Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers,
and discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson’s

Bay. The first in rotation, next to that I have just des-
cribed, is the Assiniboin, or Red River, which, at the dis-
tance of forty miles coastwise, disembogues on the South-
West side of the lake Winipic. It alternately receives those
two denominations from its dividing, at the distance of about
thirty miles from the lake, into two large branches. The
Eastern branch, called the Red River, runs in a Southern
direction to near the head waters of the Missisippi. On

* The fruits are, strawberries, hurtleberries, plumbs, and cherries, hazle-
tuts, gooseberries, currants, ‘raspbervies, poires, &c.

=

4A A General History of the“Fur Trade.

ee are two trading establishments. The country on either
side is but partially supplied with wood, and consists of
plains covered with herds of the buffalo and the elk, espe-
cially on the Western side. On the Eastern side are lakes
and rivers, and the whole country is well wooded, level,
abounding i in beaver, bears, moose-deer, fallow-deer, ce kc.
The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, are not very.
numerous, and are considered as the. natives of Lake Su-
perior. ‘This country being near the Missisippi, is also in-
habited by the Nadowasis, who are the natural enemies of
the former; the head of the water being the war-line, the
are in a continual state of hostility; and though the Algon-.
quins are equally brave, * others generally out-number
them; it is very probable, therefore, that if the latter con-
“tinue to venture out of the woods, which form their only
proteetion, they will soon be extirpated. There is not,
perhaps, a finer country in the world for the residence of
uncivilized man, than that which occupies the space between,
this river and Lake Superior. It abounds in every thing
necessary to the wants and comforts of such a people. Fish,
venison, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great plenty ; while,
at the same time, their subsistence requires that bodily eX-.
ercise so necessary to health and vigour.

This great extent of country was formerly very populous,,
but from the information I received, the aggregate of its,
inhabitants does not exceed three Ei ae warriors ; an
among the few whom I saw, it appeared to me that the.
widows were more numerous than the men. The rackoo:
is a native of this country, but is seldom found to the North-, |
ward of it. “al

The other branch is called after the tribe of the N adawa-.
sis, who here go by the name of Assiniboins, andare the prin-,
cipal. inhabitants of it. It runs from the North-North- West,
and, in the latitude of 514. West, and longitude 1032. rising in,
the same mountains as the river Dauphin, of which I shall
_ speak in due order. ‘They must have separated from their,
nation at atime beyond our knowledge, and live in peace,
with the Algonquins and Knisteneaux.

The country between this and the Red River, 1S. almost
a continual plain to the Missisoury. ‘The soil is sand and,
gravel, with a slight intermixture of earth, and produces a
short grass. Trees are very rare; nor are there on the
banks of the river sufficient, except in particular spots, to
build houses and supply fire- ‘wood for the trading establish-

:
A General History of the Fur Trade. ie

ments, of which there are four principal ones. Both these
rivers are navigable for canoes to their source, without a
fall; though in some parts there are rapids, caused by occa-
sional beds of lime-stone, and gravel; but in general they
are a sandy bottom.

~The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall, or Big-bellied
Indians, are the principal inhabitants of this country, and
border on the river, occupying the centre part of it; that
next Lake Winipic, and about its source, being the station
of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, who have chosen it in
preference to their own country. T’ hey do not exceed five
hundred families. They are not beaver hunters, which ac-
counts for their allowing the division just mentioned, as the
lower and upper parts of this river have those animals, which
are not found in the intermediate district. They confine
themselves to hunting the buffalo, and trapping wolves,
which cover the country. What they do not want of the
former for raiment and food, they sometimes make into
pemmican, or pounded meat, while they melt the fat, and
prepare the skins in their hair, for winter. The wolves
they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat, and pre-
pare their skins ; all which they bring to exchange for arms
and ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles,
with those who go to traffic in their country.

The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the contrary,
attend to the fur-hunting, so that they acquire the addition-
al articles of cloth, blankets, &c. but their passion for rum
often puts it out of their power to supply themselves with
real necessaries.

The next river of magnitude is the river Dauphin, which
empties itself at the head of St. Martin’s Bay, on the West
side of the Lake Winipic, latitude nearly 52. 15. North,
taking its source in the same mountains as the last-mentioned
river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer River, the latter
passing through the lake of the same name, as well as the
former, and both continuing their course through the Ma-
nitoba Lake, which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake
Winipic, to within nine miles of the Red River, and by
what is called the river Dauphin, disembogues its waters,
as already described, into that lake. ‘These rivers are very
rapid, and interrupted by falls, &c. the bed being generally
rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the Sas-
katchiwine, abounds in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer,
elks, bears, buffaloes, &c. The soilis good, and wherever

:

46 A General History of the Fur Trade.

_ any attempts have been made to raise the esculent aime &e.

it has been found productive.

On these waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort
Dauphin, which was established by the French before the
conquest. Red-Deer-River, and Swan-River Forts, with

_ occasional detached posts from these. The inhabitants are

the Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic; and
Algonquins, from the country between the Red River and
Lake Superior; and some from the Rainy Lake: but as
they are not fixed inhabitants, their number cannot be deter-
mined: they do not, however, at any time exceed two hun-
dred warriors. In general they are good hunters. ‘There
is no other considerable river except the Saskatchiwine,
which I shall mention presently, that empties itself into the
Lake Winipic.

Those on the North side are inconsiderable, owing to
the comparative vicinity of the high land that separates the
waters coming this way, from those discharging into Hud-
son’s Bav. ‘The course of the lake is about West-North-
West, and South-South-East, and the East end of it is in
50. 37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its length
to a strait, in latitude 51. 45. and is no more than two miles
broad, where the South shore is gained through islands, and
crossing various bays to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine,
in latitude 53.15. This lake,in common with those of this
country, is bounded on the North with banks of black and
grey rock, and on the South by alow, level country, occa-.
sionally interrupted by a ridge or bank of lime-stones, lying
in strata, and rising to the perpendicular height of from
twenty to forty feet; these are covered with a small quan-
tity of earth, forming a level surface, which bears timber,
but of a moderate growth, and declines toa swamp. Where
the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the wa-
ters are withdrawn, and never rise to those heights which
were formerly washed by them.

__ The inhabitants who are found along this lake, are ef the
Knisteneaux and Algonquin tribes, and but few in number,
though game is not scarce, and there is fish in great ary
dance. ‘The black bass is found there, and no furthér West;
and beyond it no maple trees are secn, either hard or soft. .

On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of a few |
miles, the great rapid interrupts, the passage. It is about
three miles long. Through the greatest part of it the canoe
is towed, half or full laden, according to the state of the

A General History of the Fur Trade. 47

waters: the canoe and its contents are then carried one
thousand one hundred paces. The channel here is near 3
mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that
traverse the river. The South bank is very high, risin
‘upwards of fifty feet, of the same rock as seen on the Sout
side of the Lake Winipic, and the North is not more than
a third of that height. There is an excellent sturgeon-fishery
at the foot of this cascade, and vast numbers of pelicans,
cormorants, &c. frequent it, where they watch to seize the
fisth that may be killed or disabled by the force of the wa-
ters.

About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again
interrupted by the Portage of the Roché Rouge, which is
an hundred yards long; and a mile and an half from thence
the river is barred by a range of islands, forming rapids be-
tween them; and through these it 1s the same distance to
the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right across,
and eight miles in length. Then succeeds the Grande Dé-
charge, and several rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake,
which is entered through a small channel on the left, form-
ed by an island, as going round it would occasion loss of
time. In this distance banks of rocks (such as have already
been described) appear at intervals on either side; the rest
of the country is low. This is the case along the South
bank of the lake and the islands, while the North side, which
is very uncommon, is level throughout. This lake runs
first West four miles, then as much more West-South-
_ West, across a deep bay on the right, then six miles to the
Point de Lievre, and across another bay again on the right ;
then North-West eight miles, across a still deeper bay on
the right; and seven miles parallel with the North coast,
North- North-West through islands, five miles more to Fort
Bourbon,* situated on a small island, dividing this from
Mud Lake. ve

The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, ex-
clusive of the bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and
abound in game, and its waters produce plenty of fish, par-
ticularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake, and the neigh-
bourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks,
swans, &c. and was formerly remarkable for a vast number
of martens, of which it cannot now boast but a very small

proportion.

* This was also a principal post of the French, who gave it its name.

H

a

48 A General History of the Fur Trade.

The Mud Lake must have formerly been a part of the
Cedar Lake, but the immense quantity of earth:and sand,
brought down by the Saskatchiwine, has filled up this part
of it for a circumference whose diameter is at least fifteen
or twenty miles: part of which space is still covered with a
few feet of water, but the greatest proportion is shaded with
large trees, such as the liard, the swamp-ash, and the willow.

This land consists of many islands, which consequently form

various. channels, several of which are occasionally dry, and
bearing young wood. It is, indeed, more than probable
that this river will, in the course of time, convert the whole
of the Cedar Lake into a forest. | To the North-West the
cedar is not to be found.

From this lake the Saskatchiwine may be eouehdaed: as
navigable to near its sources in the rocky mountains, for

canoes, and without a carrying-place, making a great bend |

to Cumberland House, on Sturgeon Lake. From the con-
fluence of its North and South branches its course is Wes-
terly; spreading itself, it receives several tributary streams,
and encompasses a large tract of country, which is level,
particularly along the South branch, but is little known.—

Beaver, and other animals whose furs are valuable, are

amongst the inhabitants of the North-West branch, and the
plains are covered with buffaloes, wolves, and small foxes;
particularly about the South branch, which, however, has
of late claimed some attention, as it is now understood, that
where the plains terminate towards the rocky mountain,
there is a space of hilly country, clothed with wood, and
inhabited also by animals of the fur kind. ‘This has been
actually determined to be the case towards the head of the
North branch, where the trade has been carried to about the

latitude 54. North, and longitude 1143. West. The bed

and banks of the latter, in some few places, discover a
stratum of free stone; but, in general, they are composed
of earth and sand. ‘The plains are sand and gravel, cover-
ed with fine grass, and mixed with a small quantity of vege-
table earth. This is particularly observable along the North
branch, the West side of which is covered with wood.
There are on this river five principal factories for the con-
venience of trade with the natives. Nepawi House, South
branch House, Fort-George House, Fort-Augustus House,
and Upper Establishment. ‘There have been many others,

which, from various causes, haye been changed for these,

AGeneral History of the Fur Trade. Ag
abies there are occasionally others depending on each of

ee Wiehe nalinloisante, from the information I could obtain, are
as follow :

_ At Nepawi, and South-Branch House, about thirty tents
of Knisteneaux, or ninety warriors; and sixty tents of
Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who are their neighbours,
and are equal totwo hundred men: their hunting grounds ex-
tend upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Nexttothem are those
who trade at Forts George and Augustus, and are about
eighty tents or upwards of Knisteneaux: on either side of
the river, their number may be two hundred. In the same
country are one hundred and forty tents of Stone-Indians ;
not quite half of them inhabit the West woody country ;
the others never leave the plains, and their numbers cannot
be less than four hundred and fifty men. Atthe Southern
-Head-waters of the North branch dwells a tribe called Sar-
sees, consisting of about thirty-five tents, or one hundred
andtwenty men. Opposite to those Eastward, on the head-
waters of the South-Branch, are the Picaneaux, to the
number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next to
them, on the same water, are the Blood-Indians, of the
same nation as the last, to the number of about fifty tents,
or two hundred and fifty men. From them downwards ex-
tend the Biack-Feet Indians, of the same nation as the two
last tribes: their number may be eight hundred men. Next
to them, and who extend tothe confluence of the South and
North branch, are the Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who
me amount to about six hiamsieck warriors.

Of all these different tribes, those who inhabit the broken
amnngen the North-West site, amd the source of the North
branch, are beaver-hunters ; the others deal in provisions,
wolf, buffalo, and fox skins ; and many people on the South
branch do not trouble themselves to come near the trading
establishments. Those who do, choose such establishments
as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here, are
the same people as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who
inhabit the river of that name already described, and both
are detached tribes from the Nadawasis, who inhabit the

Western side of the Missisippi, and lower part of the
Missisoury. ‘The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are from
the South-Eastward also, and of a people who inhabit the
plains from the North bend of the last mentioned river, la-
titude 47. 32. North, longitude 101, 25. West, to the South

60 A General History of the Fur Trade.

bend of the Assiniboin River, to the number of seven hun-
dred men. Some of them occasionally come to the. latter
river to exchange dressed buffalo robes, and bad wolf-skins
for articles of no great value. wees
The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood- linden are a
distinct people, speak a language of their own, and I have
reason to think, are travelling North-Westward, as wellas
the others just mentioned; nor have Lheard of any Indians.
with whose language that which they speak has any affinity.
They are the people who deal in horses and take them upon
the war-parties towards Mexico ;. from which, it is evident,
that the country to the Sonth-Bastuab daeshian consists of
plains, as those animals could not wellbe conducted sarong
an hilly and woody country, intersected by waters. —
The Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear frames
their language, to come on the contrary from the North-
Westward, and are of the same people as the Rocky-Moun-
tain ladians, described in my second journal, who area tribe |
of the Chepewyans ; and, as for the Knisteneaux, there is _
no question of their having: been, and continuing to be, ins
vaders of this country,from the Eastward. Formerly, they
struck terror into all the other tribes whom they met; but.
now they have lost the respect that was paid them ; as those
whom they formerly considered as barbarians, are now their -
allies, and consequently become better acquainted with them, —
and have acquired the useof fire-arms. The former are still
proud without power, and affect to consider the others as
their inferiors: those consequently are extrem ely. jealous of ©
them, and, depending upon their own superiority in num- -
bers, will not submit tamely to their insults ; so that the con- _
sequences often prove fatal, and the Knisteneaux are there- —
by decreasing both in power and number : spirituous liquors _
also tend to their diminution, as they are instigated thereby
to engage in quarrels which frequently have ani most disas-
trous termination among themselves. gh tes|
The Stone-Indians must not be cnesvicaadil in the same
point of view respecting the Knisteneaux, for they have |
been generally obliged, from various causes, to court their |
alliance. They, however, are not without their disagree~
ments, and it is sometimes very difficult to compose their
differences. ‘These quarrels occasionally take. place veey
the traders, and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. —_
They generally originate in consequence of stealing women _ .
and horses: they have great numbers of the latter through-»

A General History of the Fur Trade. $1

out their plains, which are brought, as has been observed,
from the Spanish settlements in Mexico; and many of
them have been seen, even in the back parts of this country,
branded with the initials of their original owners names.
Those horses are distinctly employed as beasts of burden,
and to chase the buffalo. The former are not considered as
being of much value, as they may be purchased for a gun,
which costs no more than twenty-one shillings in Great-
Britain. Many of the hunters cannot be purchased with
ten, the comparative value of which exceeds the property
of any native. | |
Of these useful animals no care whatever is taken, as
when they are no longer employed, they are turned loose
winter and summer to provide for themselves. Here it is
to be observed, that the country, in general, on the West
and North side of this great river, is broken by the lakes’
and rivers with small intervening plains, where the soil is
good, and the grass grows to some length. ‘To these the
male buffaloes resort for the winter, and if it be very severe
the females also are obliged to leave the plains. |
But to return to the route by which the progress West
and North is made through this continent. |
_ We leave the Saskatchiwine * by entering the river which
forms the discharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whose East
bank is situated Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56. North,
longitude 102. 15. The distance between the entrance and
Cumberland house is estimated at twenty miles. It is very
evident that the mud which is carried down by the Saskatchi-
wine River, has formed the land that lies between it and the
lake, for the distance of upwards of twenty miles in the line
»of the river, which is inundated during one half of the sum-
mer, though covered with wood. This lake forms an irre-
_ gular horse-shoe, one side of which runs to the North-West,
and bears the name of Pine-Island Lake, and the other known
by the name already mentioned, runs to the East of North,
_and is the largest: its length its about twenty-seven miles,
and its greatest breadth about six miles. ‘The North side
of the latter is the same kind of rock as that described in
Lake Winipic, on the West shore. In latitude 54. 16.
Rit’ F
* It may be proper to observe, that the French had two settlements upow
the Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada; the first
at the vie near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, where they

had agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of both being
found about those establishments, where the soil is excellent.

52 A General History of the Fur Trade.

North, the Sturgeon- Weir River discharges itself into this
lake, and its bed appears to be of the same. kind of rock,
and is almost a continual “>a es sige’ ity nih about —

side of dates consists of hed same rool
ta: the route then proceeds from is.
about twelve miles, and along the Ni
miles more, the whole being a North-
entrance of a river, in latitude $4. 32. 3
for this distance, 1s about four or five
abounds with fish common to the risen
upon the right of that which has been des
more considerable. The islands are ‘rocky, a
surrounded by rocks. ‘The communicatio
Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into
into small lakes. ‘The interruptions are,
which is succeeded by the Grand Rapid,
Décharge, the Carp Portage, the Bouleau
54. 50. North, including a distance, toget
ings, of thirty-four miles, in a Westerl
Lake de Bouleau then follows. This lake
propriety be denominated a canal, as it
mile in breadth. Its course is rather to t
for twelve miles to Portage de L’Isle. C
is still water to Portage d’Epinettes, exce
pid. The distance is not more than fo
After crossing this Portage, it is not mor
to Lake Miron, which is 1m latitude 5
length is about twelve miles, and its bread
two to'ten miles. It is only separated fr
tique, or Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow
‘That lake is not more than seven miles 1
about North-West. ‘The Lake des Bo
the passage to which is through small la
falls and rapids. ‘The first is a Décharge:
three galets, in immediate succession... From
des Bois runs about twenty-one miles. Its co
South-East, and North- North-West, and.
The passage continues through an intrice
ing, and shallow — for ph miles. | |

of the waters. Gita passed them, iti
the Portage de Traite, or, as it is calle
Athiquisipichigan Ouinigan, or the Portage

ceegied §

A General History of the Fur Trade. 53

| 1d Frog-Skin, to the ‘Missinipi. The waters already de-

d discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, and aug-
t those of the river Nelson. These which we are now

=a are called the Missinipi, or great Churchill River.

_. All the country to the South and East of this, within the
line of the progress that has been described, is interspersed
lakes, hills, and rivers, and is full of animals; of the fur
kind, as well as the moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the
Knisteneaux Indians, who are called by the servants of the
igh 's Bay Company, at York, their home-guards.
. The traders from Canada aiepbicded for several years in
ing the largest proportion of their furs, till the year 1793,
when the servants of that company thought proper to send
Beepamengst them, (and why they did not do it before is
best known to themselves) for the purpose of trade, and
securing their credits, which the Indians were apt to forget.
“rom the short distance they had to-come, and the quanti-

ty of goods they supplied, the trade has, in a great measure,

reverted to them, as the merchants from Canada could not
meet them upon equal terms. What added to the loss of
the latter, was the murder of one of their traders, by the
Indians, about this period. Of these people not above
eighty men have been known to the traders from Canada,
but they consist of a much greater number.

» The Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, re-
wi its name from Mr. Joseph Frobisher, who penetrat-
ed into this part of the country from Canada, as early as the
years 1774 and 1775, where he-met with the Indians in the
_ spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual cus-
tom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded
with him for as many of them as his canoes could carry, and
_ in consequence of this transaction, the Portage received and
has since retained its present appellation. He also deno-
-Mminated these waters the English River. The Missinipi
is the name which it received from the Knisteneaux, when
any firstcame tothis country, and either destroyed or drove
_ back the natives, whom they held in great contempt, on ma-
_ hy accounts, but particularly for their ignorance in hunting
the beaver, as well as in preparing, str retching, and drying
the skins of those animals. And as a sign of their derision,
they ‘stretched the skin of a frog, and hung it up at the Por-
_ tage. _ This was, at that time, the utmost extent of their
conquest or warfaring progress West, and is in latitude 55.
ei North, and longitude 1033. West. The river here,

54 A’General History of the Fur Trade.

which bears the appearance of a lake, takes its name from
the Portage, and is full of islands. It runs from East to —

West about sixteen miles, and is from four to five miles
broad. Then succeed falls and cascades which form what
is called the Grand Rapid. From thence there is a succes-
sion of small lakes and rivers, interrupted by rapids and
fails, viz. the Portage de Bareel, the Portage de L’Islé, and
that of the Rapid River. . The course is twenty miles from
E.ast-South-East to North-North-West. The Rapid River
Lake then runs West five miles, and is of an oval form.—
The Rapid River is the discharge of Lake la Rouge,’ where
there has been an establishment for trade from the year
1782. Since the small-pox ravaged these parts, there have
been but few inhabitants: these are of the Knisteneaux tribe,
and do not exceed thirty men. The direct navigation con-

tinues to be throughrivers and canals, interrupted by rapids ;

and the distance to the first Décharge is four miles, in a
Westerly direction. Then follows Lake de la Montagne,
which runs South-South- West three miles and an half, then
North six miles, through narrow channels, formed by
islands, and continues North-North-West five miles, to the
portage of the same name, which is no sooner crossed, than
another appears in sight, leading to the Otter Lake, from

whence it is nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, in —
latitude 55. 39. Between this and the Portage du Diable, —

are several rapids, and the distance three miles and an half.
Then succeeds the lake of the same name, running from
South-East to North-West, five miles, and West four miles

and an half. There is then a succession of small lakes, ra-

pids, and falls, producing the Portage des Ecors, Portage
du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the whole comprehend-

ing a distance of six miles, to the lake of the latter name. |

On the left side is a point covered with human bones, the
relics of the small-pox; which circumstance gave the Por-
tage and the lake this melancholy denomination. Its course
1s South-West fifteen miles, while its breadth does not ex-
ceed three miles. From thence a rapid river leads to Por-

tage de Hallier, which is followed by Lake de L’Isle d’Ours: |

it is, however, improperly called a lake, as it contains fre-
quent impediments amongst its islands, from rapids. There
is a very dangerous one about the centre of it, which is
named the Rapid qui ne parle point, or that never speaks,

from its silent whirlpool-motion. In some of the whirl- |
pools. the suction is so powerful, that they are carefully —

‘A General History of the Fur Trade. 55

ded. At some distance from the silent rapid, is a nar-
Srtirai, where the Indians have painted red figures on the
> of a rock, and where it was their custom formerly to
make an offering of some of the articles which they had
with them, in their way to and from Churchill. The
- course in this lake, which is very meandering, may be esti-
Mmated at thirty-eight miles, and is terminated by the Por-
tage du Canot Tourner, from the danger to which those
are subject who venture to run this rapid. From thence a
river of one mile and an half North-West course leads to
the Portage de Bouleau, and inabout half a mile to the Por-
tage des Epingles, so called from the sharpness of its stones.
Then follows the Lake des Souris, the direction across
which is amongst islands, North- West by West six milas.
In this traverse is an island, which is remarkable for a very
large stone, in the form of a bear, on which the natives have
painted the head and snout of that animal; and here they
also were formerly accustomed to offer sacrifices. ‘This
lake is ‘separated only by a narrow strait from the Lake du
Serpent, which runs North-North-West seven miles, to a
narrow channel, that connects it with another lake, bearing
the same name, and running the same course for eleven
miles, when the rapid of the same denomination is entered
on the West side of the lake. It is to be remarked here,
that for about three or four miles on the North-West side
of this lake, there is a high bank of clay and sand, clothed
with cypress trees, a circumstance which is not observable
on any lakes hitherto mentioned, as they are bounded, par-
ticularly on the North, by black and grey rocks. It may
also be considered as a most extraordinary circumstance,
that the Chepewyans go North-West from hence to the
barren grounds, which is their own country, without the
assistance of canoes ; as it ts well known that in every other
part which has been described, from Cumberland house, the
country is broken on either side of the direction to a great
extent: so that a traveller could not go at right angles with
any of the waters already mentioned, without meeting with
others in every eight or ten miles. This will also be found
peor very much the case in proceeding to Portage la Loche.
~ The last mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long,
Notth-West by West; there is, however, no carrying, as
the line and poles are ‘sufficient to drag and set the canoe
eh the current. Lake Croche is then crossed in a
esterly direction of six miles, though its whole length
I

56 A General History of the Fur Trade.

may be twice that distance; after which it contracts to a ri-
ver that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it forms a bend,
which is left to the South, and enteringa portion of its waters,
called the Grass River, whose. meandering course is about
six miles, butin a direct line not more than half that length,
where it receives its waters from the great river, which then
runs Westerly eleven miles before it forms the Knee Lake,
whose direction is to the North of West. It is full of isl-
ands for eighteen miles, and its greatest apparent breadth is
not more than five miles. ‘The portage of the same name:
is several hundred yards long, and over large stones. Its
latitude is 55. 50, and longitude 106, 30. ‘Iwo miles fur-.
ther North is the commencement of the Croche Rapid,
which is a succession of cascades for about three miles,
making a bend due South to the Lake du Primeau, whose
course is various, and through islands, to the distance of
about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake are low, stony,
and marshy, whose grass and rushes afford shelter and food
to great numbers of wild fowl. At its Western extremity
is Portage la Puise, from whence the river takes a meander-
ing course, widening and contracting at intervals, and is —
much interrupted by rapids. After a Westerly course of
twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From hence, in
the course of seven miles, are threé rapids, to which suc-
ceeds the Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in
circumference. Then Shagoina strait and rapid lead into,
the Lake of Isle a la Croisé, in which the course is South
twenty miles, and South-South-West fourteen miles, to
the Point au Sable ; opposite to which is the discharge of the.
Beaver river, bearing South six miles: the lake in the distance
run, does not éxceed twelve miles in its greatest breadth, It
now turns West-South- West, the isle a la Crosse being on
the South, and the main land on the North; and it clears
the one and the other in the distance of three miles, the wa-
ter presenting an open horizon to right and left : that onthe
left formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues in
depth; and that to the right by what is called la Riviere
Creuse, or Deep River, being a canal of still water, which
is here four miles wide. On following the last course, Isle
a la Crosse Fort appears on a low isthmus, at the distance
of five miles, and is in latitude.55. 25. North, and longitude
107. 48. West. sty, : i
This lake and fort take their names from the island just
mentioned, which, as has been already observed, received

A General History of the Pur Trade. S?

4ts denomination from the game of the cross, which forms
4 principal amusement among the natives. er
~ The situation of this lake, the abundance of the finest fish
fin the world to be found in its waters, the richness of its
Surrounding banks and forests, in moose and fallow deer,
“with the vast numbers of the smailer tribes of animals, whose
‘skins are precious, and the numerous flocks of wild fowl
that frequent it in the spring and fall, make ita most desit-
able spot for the constant residence of some, and the occa-
sional rendezvous of others of the inhabitants of the country,
particularly of the Knisteneaux.
~ Who the original people were that were driven from it,
‘when conquered by the Knisteneaux is not now known, as not
‘asingle vestige remains of them. The latter, and the Che-
‘pewyans, are the only people that have been known here;
‘and it is evident that the last-mentioned consider themselves
as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three or four
A ged without visiting their relations and friends in the
barren grounds, which they term their native country.
‘They were for some time treated by the Knisténeaux as
‘enemies ; who now allow them to hunt to the North of the
‘track which has been described,from Fort du Traite upwards,
‘but when they occasionally meet them, they insist on con-
tributions, and frequently punish resistance with their arms.
‘This is sometitnes done at the forts, or places of trade, but
then it appears to be a voluntaty gift. A treat of rum is
‘expected on the occasion, which the Chepewyans on no
‘other account ever purchase ; and those only who have had
‘frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux have any inclina-
‘tion to drink it.
_ When the Europeans first penetrated into this country,
‘in 1777, the people of both tribes were numerous, but the
“small-pox was fatal to them all, so that there does not exist
‘of the one at present, more than forty resident families ; and
‘the other has been from about thirty to two hundréd fami-
‘ies. These numbers are applicable to the constant and less
‘ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied with the quiet pos-
‘session ofa country affording, without risk or much trouble,
“€very thing necessary to their comfort; for since ttaders
“have spread themselves over it, it is no more the rendez-
yous of the errant Knisteneaux, part of whom used annuall
‘toreturn thither from the country of the Beaver River, which
“they had explored to its source in their wat and hunting ex-
“cursions, and as far as the Saskatchiwine, where they some-

5B A General History of the Fur Trade.

times met people of their own nation, who had prosecuted

similar conquests up that river. In that country they ne

found abundance of fish and animals, such as have been al-
ready described, with the addition of the buffaloes, who
range in the partial patches of meadow scattered along the
rivers and lakes. From thence they returned in the spring,
to the friends whom they had left; and at the same time
met with others who had penetrated, with the same designs,
into the Athabasca country, which will be described here-
after. a
The spring was the period of this joyful meeting, when

their time was occupied in feasting, dancing, and other pas-

times, which were occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and
religious solemnity: while the narratives of their travels, and
the history of their wars, amused and animated the festival.

The time of rejoicing was but short, and was soon inter- |

rupted by the necessary preparations for their annual journey
to Churchill, to exchange their furs for such European arti-
cles as were now become necessary to them. The shortness
of the seasons, and the great length of their way requiring
the utmost dispatch, the most active men of the tribe, with
their youngest women, and a few of their children under-
took the voyage, under the direction of some of their chiefs,
following the waters already described, to their discharge
at Churchill Factory, which are called, as has already been

observed, the Missinipi, or Great Waters. ‘There they.

remained no longer than was sufficient to barter their com-
modities, with a supernumerary day or two to gratify them-
selves with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. At the
game time the inconsiderable quantity they could purchase
to carry away with them, for a regale with their friends, was
held sacred, and reserved to heighten the enjoyment of
their return home, when the amusements, festivity, and re-
ligious solemnities of the spring were repeated. ‘The usual
time appropaiated to these convivialities being completed,
they separated, to pursue their different objects; and if
they were determined to go to war, they made the necessa-
ry arrangements for their future operations. :%
But we must now renew the progress of the route. Itis
not more than two miles from Isle a la Crosse Fort, toa
point of land which forms a cheek of that part of the lake
called the Riviere Creuse, which preserves the breadth al-
ready mentioned for upwards of twenty miles; then con-
tracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles more, when

- Pa.

-

Pe

A General History of the Fur Trade. ' §9

it opens to Lake €lear, which is very wide, and commands
an open horizon, keeping the West shore for six miles.—
‘The whole of the distance mentioned is about North-West,
when, by a narrow, crooked channel, turning to the South
of West, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf, which is
contracted near the middle, by a projecting sandy point; in-
dependent of which, it may be described as from six to
twelve miles in breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a
North-West direction. At the North-West end, in lati-
tude 56. 8. it receives the waters of the river la Loche,
which, in the fall of the year, is very shallow, and navigated
with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not
sufficient to form strong rapids, though from its rocky bot.
tom the canoes are frequently in considerable danger. In-
cluding its meanders, the course of this river may be com-
puted at twenty-four miles, and receives its first waters from
the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long,
and six wide; into which a small river flows, sufficient to
bear loaded canoes, for about a mile and an half, where the
navigation ceases; and the canoes, with their lading, are
carried over the Portage la Loche for thirteen miles.

_ This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which
discharge themselves into Hudson’s Bay, from those that
flow into the Northern ocean, and is in latitude 56. 20. and
longitude 109.15. West. It runs South-West until it loses
its local height between the Saskatchiwine and Elk Rivers;
close on the bank of the former, in latitude 53. 36. North,
and longitude 113. 45. West, it may be traced in an Easterly
direction toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude 1034.
West, when it appears to take its course due North, and
may probably reach the Frozen Seas.

_ From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes
display a smaller portion of solid rock. The land is low
and stony, intermixed with a light, sandy soil, and clothed
with wood. ‘hat of the Beaver River is of amore produc-
tive quality: but no part of it has ever been cultivated by
the natives or Europeans, except a small garden at the Isle
ala Crosse, which well repaid the labour bestowed upon it.
__ The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in some parts
abounding with stones, but in general it is an entire sand,
and covered with the cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and
other trees natural to its soil. Wauthin three miles of the
North-West termination, there is a small round lake, whose
diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a trifling

60 A General History of the Fur Trade.
respite to the labour si gla Withitt a mile of the |

ascent and descent appears to 8 etqually imphacrieable in :
any way, as it consists of a succession of eight hills, somé |
of which are almost perpendicular; nevertheless, the Cana-
dians contrive to surmount all these difficulties, even with
their canoes and lading.

This precipice, which rises upwards of 4 thosand: feet
above the plain beneath it, commands a most extensive, ro-
mantic, and ravishing prospect. From thence the eye looks
down on the course of the little river, by some called the
Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and Pelicati
‘river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles.
The valley, which is at once refreshed and adorned by it,
is about three miles in breadth, and is confined by two lofty
ridges of equal height, displaying a most delightful inter-
mixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on until the blué
mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the rigs
heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by pro-
montories of the finest verdure, where the elle and P uffalo
find pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fite has
destroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. Nor,
when i beheld this wonderful display of uncultivated nature,
was the moving scenery of human occupation wanting to
complete the picture. From this elevated situation I behe!
my people, diminished, as it were, to half their size, em-
ployed in pitching their tents in a charming meadow, and
among the canoes, which, being turned upen their sides,
presented their reddened bottoms in contrast with the sure
rounding verdure. At the same time, the process of gumi-
ming them produced numerous small spires of smoke,
which, as they rose, enlivened the scene, and at length
blended with the larger columns that ascended from the fires
where the suppers were preparing. It was in the month of
September when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not pre-
sume to give an adequate description; and as it was the
rutting season of the elk, the whistling of that animal was
heard in all the variety which the echoes could afford it.

This river, which waters and reflects such enchantin
scenery, runs, including its windings, upwards of eighty
miles, when it discharges itself in the Elk River, according
to the denomination of the natives, but commonly called |
the white people, the Athabasca River, in latitude 36. 42.
North.

A General History of the Fur Trade. 64

_ Ata small distance from Portage la Loche, several car-.
an ying -places interrupt the navigation of the river; about the
middle of which are some mineral springs, whose margins
are covered with sulphureous incrustations. At the junc-
tion or fork, the Elk River is about three quarters of a
gt in breadth, and runs in a steady current, sometimes
contracting, but never increasing its channel, until, after
receiving several small streams, it discharges beet into the
ake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 36. North. At about
twenty-four miles from the fork, are some bitumenous foun-
tains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may be inserted
without the least resistance. The bitumen is ina fluid state,
and when. mixed with gum, or the resinous substance col-
lected from the spruce fir, serves to gumthe canoes. In
its heated state it emits a smell like that of sea-coal. The
banks of the river, which are there very elevated, discover
veins of the same bitumenous quality. Ata small distance
from the fork, houses have been erected for the convenience
of trading with a party of the Knisteneaux, who visit the
adjacent country for the purpose of hunting.

_ At the distance of about forty miles from the des is the

d Establishment, which has been already mentioned, as

formed by. Mr. Bandi in the year 1778-9, and which was the

only one in this part of the world, until ‘the year 1785. In

_ year 1788, it was Midi ey to the Lake of the Hills,

and formed on a point on its Southern side, at about eight

miles from the discharge of the river. It was named Fort

Chepewyan, and, is in latitude. 58. 38. North, longitude 110.

- 26. West, and much better situated for ade anid fishing,

as. the people here have recourse to water for their support.

I his being the place which I made my head-quarters for

sight years, and from whence I took my departure, on both

my expeditions, I shall give some account of it, with the

mannet of carrying on the trade there, and oils circum-
stances, connected with it.

The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the
first of August, do not arrive heré till the latter end of |
September, or the beginning of October, when a necessary
proportion of them is dispatched up the Peace River to
trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians.—

thers are sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond
them, and traffic with the inhabitants of that country. A
small | part of them, if not left at the Fork of the Elk Ri-
ver, return thither for the Knisteneaux, while the rest of

7S ey A” © ns

62 A General History of the Fur Trade.

_ the people and merchandize remain here to. carry on trade

with the Chepewyans.

Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men recite
out any provision for their sustenance ; for whatever quan-
tity might have been obtained from the natives during the
summer, it could not be more than sufficient for the people
dispatched to their different posts; and even if there were
a casual superfluity, 1t was absolutely necessary to preserve
it untouched, for the demands of the spring. The whole
dependence, therefore, of those who remained, was on the
lake, and fishing implements for the means of our support.

“The nets are sixty fathom in length, when set, and contain
fifteen meshes of five inches in depth. The manner of.
using them is as follows: A small stone and wooden buoy ~

are fastened to the side-line opposite to each other, at about
the distance of two fathoms: when the net is carefully
thrown into the water, the stone sinks it to the bottom,
while the buoy keeps it at its full extent, and it is secured
in its situation by a stone at either end. The nets are vi-
sited every day, and taken out every other day to be cleaned
and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters
are not frozen, but when the frost has set in, and the ice has

acquired its greatest thickness, which is sometimes as much |

as five feet, holes are cut in it at the distance of thirty feet
from each other, to the full length of the net; one of them
is larger than the rest, being generally about four feet square,
and is called the bason: by means of them, and poles of a

proportionable length, the nets are placed in and drawn out a

of the water. The setting of hooks and lines is so simple

an employment as to render a description unnecessary. The |

white fish are the principal object of pursuit: they spawn in

the fall of the year, and, at about the setting in of the hard —

frost, crowd in shoals to ‘the shallow water, when as many as

possible are taken, in order that a portion of them may be —

laid by in the frost to provide against the scarcity of winter ;
as, during that season, the fish of every description decrease
an the lakes, if they do not altogether disappear. Some
have supposed, that during this period they are stationary,
or assume an inactive state. If there should be any inter-
vals of warm weather during the fall, 1t is necessary to sus-
pend the fish by the tail, though they are not so good as those

which are altogether preserved by the frost. In this state

a

re 5,

A General History of the Fur Trade. 63

they remain to the beginning of April, when they have been
found as sweet as when they were caught. *
» Thus do these voyagers live, year after year, entirely up-
6n fish, without even the quickening flavour of salt, or the
_ Variety of any farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, however, |
if their habits had not rendered it unnecessary, might be
obtained in this country to the westward of the Peace Ri-
ver, where it loses its name in that of the Slave River,
from the numerous salt-ponds and springs to be found there,
which will supply in any quantity, in a state of concretion,
and perfectly white and clean. When the Indians pass that
way, they bring a small quantity to the fort, with other ar-
ticles of trafic.
During a short period of the spring and fall, great num-
bers of wild fowl frequent this country, which prove a very
gratifying food after such a long privation of flesh-meat. It
is remarkable, however, that the Canadians who frequent the
Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin rivers, and live alto-
gether on venison, have a less healthy appearance than those
whose sustenance is obtained from the waters. At the
ame time the scurvy is wholly unknown among them. |
_ Inthe fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the
forts, where they barter the furs or provisions which they
may have procured: they then obtain credit, and proceed
to hunt the beavers, and do not return till the beginning of
the year; when they are again fitted out in the same man-
her, and come back the latter end of March, or the beginning
of April. They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver
hunt until the waters are clear of ice, that they may kill
them with fire-arms, which the Chepewyans are averse to
ler. _ The major part of the latter return to the barren
. fre mds, and live during the summer with their relations
and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is derived
from numerous herds of deer. But those of that tribe who
are most partial to these deserts, cannot remain there in win-
ter, and they are obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in
the woods during that rigorous season, when they contrive
to kill a few beavers, and send them by young men, to ex-
change for iron utensils and ammunition. |
Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent or car-
ried their furs regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudson’s Bay ;

_ * This fishery requires the most unremiting attention, as the voyaging
Canadians are equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident, when left.
to themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the morrow.
K
j %

64 A General History of the Fur Trade.

and some of them have, since that time, repaired thither,

notwithstanding they could have provided themselves with
all the necessaries which they required. The difference «
the price set on goods here and at that factory, made it an
object with the Chepewyans to undertake a journey of five
or six months, in the course of which they were reduced to
the most painful extremities, and often lost their lives from
hunger and fatigue. At present, however, this traffic is in
a great measure discontinued, as they were obliged to ex-
pend in the course of their journey, that very ammunition
which was its most alluring object.

Some Account of the Knisteneaux Indians.

oe

Turse people are spread over a vast extent of country.

7 Their language is the same as that of the people who inha- o
bit the coast of British America on the Atlantic, with the
exception of the Esquimaux,* and continues along the
coast of Labrador, and the gulph and banks of St. Laurence

to Montreal. ‘The line then follows the Utawas river to its
source; and continues from thence nearly West along the
high lands which divide the waters that fall into Lake Su-
perior and Hudson’s Bay. It then proceeds till it strikes
the middle part of the river Winipic, following that water
through the Lake Winipic, to the discharge of the Saskatchi-

wine into it; from thence it accompanies the latter to Fort —

George, when the line, striking by the head of the Beaver
River to the Elk River, runs along its banks to its discharge
in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried
back East, to the Isle a la Crosse, and so on to Churchill by
the Missinipi. The whole of the tract between this line
and Hudson’s Bay and Straits, (except that of the Esqui-
maux in the latter) may be said to be exclusively the coun-
try of the Knisteneaux. . Some of them, indeed, have pe-
netrated further West and South to the Red Rice, to the
South of Lake Winipic, and the South branch of the Sas-
katchiwine. :

* The similarity between their language, and that of the Algonquins, i 1s
an unequivocal proof that they are the same people. Specimens of their
respective tongues will be hereafter given. 8

A General History of the Fur Trade. 65

Re They are of a moderate stature, well proportioned, and
of great activity. Examples of deformity are seldom to be
Seen among them. Their complection is of a copper-colour,
- and their hair black, which is common to all the natives of

North America. It is cut in various forms, according to
the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is left in the
long, lank, flow of nature. ‘They very generally extract
their beards, and both sexes manifest a disposition to pluck -
the hair from every part of the body and limbs. Their eyes
are black, keen, and penetrating; their countenance open and
agreeable, and it 1s a principal object of their vanity to give
_ every possible decoration to their persons. A material ar-
ticle in their toilettes is vermilion, which they contrast with

their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which char-

coal is frequently added. | .

- Their dress is at once simple and commodious. It con-
_ sists of tight leggins, reaching near the hip: a strip of cloth
or leather, called assian, about a foot wide, and five feet
long, whose ends are drawn inwards, and hang behind and
before, over a belt tied round the waist for that purpose: a
close vest or shirt reaching down to the former garment,
and cinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened with
thongs behind ; and.a cap for the head, consisting of a piece
of fur, or small skin, with the brush of the animal as a sus-
pended ornament: a kind of robe is thrown occasionallyjover
the whole of the dress, and serves both night and day.—
These articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens, con-
stitute the variety of their apparel. ‘The materials vary ac-
_ cording to the season, and consist of dressed moose-skin,

beaver prepared with the fur, or European woollens. ‘The

leather is neatly painted, and fancifully worked in some
parts with porcupine quills, and moose-deer hair: the shirts
-and leggins are also adorned with fringe and tassels ; nor
are the shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropriate
decoration, and worked with a considerable degree of skill
and taste. These habiliments are put on, however, as fan-
cy or convenience suggests ; and they will sometimes pro-
ceed to the chase in the severest frost, covered only with the
slightest of them. Their head-dresses are composed of the
feathers of the swan, the eagle, and other birds. The teeth,
horns, and claws of different animals, are also the occasional
ornaments of the head and neck. ‘Their hair, however ar-
ranged, is always besmeared with grease. The making of
every article of dress is a female occupation; and the wo-

66 A General History of the Fur Trade,

men, though by no means inattentive to the decoration of
their own persons, appear to have a still greater degree «
pride in attending to the appearances of the men, wh
faces are painted with more care than those of the women.
‘The female dress is formed of the same materials as those _
of the other sex, but of a different make and arrangement. ~
Their shoes are commonly plain, and their leggins gartered
beneath the knee. ‘The coat, or bedy covering, falls down —
to the middle of the leg, and 1s fastened over the shoulders
with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches,
both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with
quill-work and fringe ; the bottom is also fringed, and fans
cifully painted as high as the knee. As it is very loose, it
is inclosed round the waist with a stiff belt, decorated with
tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are covered to the
wrist, with detached sleeves, which are sewed as far as the
bend af the arm ; from thence they are drawn up to the neck,
and the corners of them fall down behind as low as the
waist. ‘The cap, when they wear one, consists of a certain
quantity of leather or cloth, sewed at one end, by which
means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the back,
is fastened to the belt, as well as under the chin. The up-
per garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their
hair is divided on the crown, and tied behind, or sometimes
fastened in large knots over the ears. They are fond of
European articles, and prefer them to their own native com-
modities. Their ornaments consist, in common with all
savages, in bracelets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of
_the women tatoo three perpendicular lines, which are somes
times double: one from the centre of the chin to that of
the under lip, and one parallel on either side to the corner —
of the mouth. ae
Of all the nations which I have seen on this continent,
the Knistencaux women are the most comely. ‘Their figure
is generally well proportioned, and the regularity of their
features would be acknowledged by the more civilized peo. -
ple of Europe. Their complection has less of that dark
tinge which is common to those savages who have less
cleanly habits. As
These people are, in general, subject to few. Gisordevel |
The lues venerea, however, is a common complaint, but
cured by the application of simples, with whose virtues they _
appear to be well acquainted. They are also subject to
fluxes, and pains in the are: which some have attributed —

A Leneral History of the Fur Trade. | 67

to the very cold and keen air which they inhale; but Ishould
imagine that these complaints must frequently. proceed from
their immoderate indulgence in fat meat at their feasts,
particularly when they have been preceded by long fasting. |
_ They are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in
their dealings, not only among themselves, but with stran-
gers.*. They are also generous and hospitable, and good-
natured in the extreme, except when their nature is per-
verted by the inflammatory influence of spirituous liquors,
‘To their children they are indulgent toafault. The father,
though he assumes no command over them, is ever anxious
to instruct them in all the preparatory qualifications for war
and hunting; while the mother is equally attentive to her
daughters in teaching them every thing that is considered as
necessary to their character and situation. It does not ap-
pear that the husband makes any distinction between the
children of his wife, though they may be the offspring of
different fathers. MTlegitimacy is only attached to those whe
are born before their mothers have cohabited with any man
by the title of husband. . :
_ It does not appear, that chastity is considered by them as
‘a virtue; or that fidelity is believed to be essential to the
happiness of wedded life. ‘Though it sometimes happens
that the infidelity of a wife is punished by the husband with
the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps life; such severity
proceeds from its having been practised without his per-
mission: for a temporary interchange of wives is not un-
common; and the offer of their persons is considered as a
- necessary part of the hospitality due to strangers.

_ When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to
marry her sister, if she has one; or he may, if he pleases,
have them both at the same time.

Tt will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeat-
edly imputed to the use of spirituous liquors, that I more
particularly consider these people as having been, morally
speaking, great sufferers from their communication with the
subjects of civilized nations. At the same time they were
hot, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of
them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cultivated and
reflecting man. I shall only observe, that incest and beasti-
ality are among them. i

ad They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with justice be
ributed to them, it may be traced to their connection with the civilized,
ople who come into their country to traffic.

X

68 A General History of the Fur Trade.

When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live
with the father and mother of his wife, who treat him, never- —
theless, as a perfect stranger, until after the birth of his first —
child: he then attaches himself more to them than his own
parents; and his wife no longer gives him any other denomi-
nation than that of the father of her child.

The profession of the men is war and hunting, and the
more active scene of their duty is the field of battle, and
the chase in the woods. They also spear fish, but the man-
agement of the nets is left to the women. The females of

this nation are in the same subordinate state with those of
all other savage tribes; but the severity of their labour is —
much diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes —
and rivers, where they employ canoes. In the winter, when
the waters are frozen, they make their journies, which are
never of any great length, with sledges drawn by dogs.
They are, at the same time, subject to every kind of do-
mestic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the clothes
and shoes, weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents,
fetch water, and perform every culinary service; so that
when the duties of maternal care are added, it will appear
that the life of these women is an uninterrupted succession ©
of toiland pain. This, indeed, is the sense they entertain
of their own situation; and, under the influence of that sen-
timent, they are sometimes known to destroy their female
children: to save them from the miseries which they them-
selves have suffered. They also have a ready way, by the
use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, which they
sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to
save themselves the trouble which children occasion; and,
as I have been credibly informed, this unnatural act is re-
peated without any injury to the health of the women who
perpetrate it.

The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ceremonials,
with smoking, and are concluded by a feast. The body is
dressed in the best habiliments possessed by the decebvede
or his relations, and is then deposited in a grave, lined with
branches: some domestic utensils are placed on it, and a
kind of canopy erected over it. During this ceremony,
great lamentations are made, and if the departed person is
very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair,
pierce the fleshy part of their thighs and arms with arrows,
knives, &c. and blacken their faces with charcoal. If they -
have distinguished themselves in war, they are sometimes

~

the
_ rags that will cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed

AGeneral History of the Fur Trade. 69

id ona kind of scaffolding; and I have been informed that
women, as in the East, have been known to sacrifice them-
selves to the manes of their husbands. ‘The whole of the
property belonging to the departed person is destroyed, and
the relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any

on the occasion, which is, or at least used to be, repeated
annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on the deceased,

and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved

or painted the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from
the different animals of the country.

Many and various are the motives which induce a savage
to engage in war. ‘To prove his courage, or torevenge the
death of his relations, or some of his tribe, by the massacre
of an enemy. [If the tribe feel themselves called upon to
go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to know
the general opinion. If itbe for war, the chief publishes
his intention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain period,
to which solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as
preparatory ceremonials. When the people are thus assem-
bled, and the meeting sanctified by the custom of smoking,
the chief enlarges on the causes which have called them

together, and the necessity of the measures proposed on the

occasion. | | )

’ He then invites those who are willing to follow him, to
smoke out of the sacred stem, which is considered as the
token of enrolment ; and if it should be the general opinion,
that assistance is necessary, others are invited, with great
formality, to join them. Every individual who attends
these meetings brings something with him as a token of his
warlike intentions or as an object of sacrifice, which, when
the assembly dissolves, is suspended from poles near the

place of council.

_ They have frequent feasts, and particular circumstances
never fail to produce them; such as a tedious illness, long
fasting, &c. On these occasions it is usual for the person
who means to give the entertainment, to announce his de-
Sign, on a certain day, of opening the medicine bag and
smoking out of his sacred stem. ‘This declaration is consi-
dered as a sacred vow that cannot he broken. There are
also stated periods, such as the spring and autumn, when
they engage in very long andsolemn ceremonies. On these
occasions dogs are offered as sacrifices, and those which are
very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. They also make

¥0 A General History of the Fur Trade.

, ®
large offerings of their property, whatever itmay be. The —
scene of these ceremonies is in an open inclosure on the |
bank of a river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situa- —
tion, in order that such as are passing along or travelling, —
may be induced to make their offerings. ‘There is also a
particular custom among them, that, on these occasions, if
any of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing by,
and be in real want of any thing that is displayed as an of-
fering, he has a right to take it, so that he replaces it with,
some article he can spare, though it be of far inferior values
but to take or touch any thing wantonly is considered as a
sacrilegious act, and highly insulting to the great Master of —
Life, to use their own expression, who is the sacred object
of their devotion. ey
The scene of private sacrifice 1s the lodge of the person
who performs it, which is prepared for that purpose by re- —
moving every thing out of it, and spreading green branches
in every part. ‘The fire and ashes are also taken away. A
new hearth is made of fresh earth, and another fire is light.
ed. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it ; and he
begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a
well-dressed moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens —
his medicine-bag and exposes its contents, consisting of
various articles. The principal of them is a kind of house-
hold god, which isa small carved image about eight inches
long. Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of —
birch bark is closely tied, and the whole is enveloped in see ©
veral folds of red and blue cloth. This little figure is an
object of the most pious regard. .The next article is his
war-cap, which is decorated with the feathers and plumes of
scarce birds, beavers, and eagle’s claws, &c. ‘There is al-
so suspended from it a quill or feather for every enemy
whom the owner of it has slain in battle. ‘The remaining
contents of the bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several
roots and simples, which are in great estimation for their
medicinal qualities, and a ‘pipe. ‘These articles being all
exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it must
not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the
person he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him;
the pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. ~A pair of
wooden pincers is provided to put the fire in the pipe, and |
a double pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant of to-
bacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being
made, the men assemble, and sometimes the women are

A General Mistory of the Fur Trade. 71

allowed to be humble spectators, while the most religious
awe and solemnity pervade the whole. The Michiniwais,
or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, and presents it to
the officiating person, who receives it standing, and holds it
between both hishands. He then turns himseiito the Kast,
and draws a few whiffs, which he blows to that point. The
same ceremony he observes to the other three quarters, with
his eyes directed upwards duringthe whole of it. He holds
the stem about the middle between the three first fingers of -
both hands, and raising them upon a line withhis forehead,
he. swings it three times round from the East, with the sun,
when, after pointing and balancing it in various directions,
he reposes it on the forks : he then makes a speechto explain
the design of their being called together, which concludes
with an acknowledgment of past mercies, and a prayer for
the continuance of them, from the Master of Life. He then
_ sits down, and the whole company declare their approbation
-and thanks by uttering the word ho! with anemphatic pro-—
longation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes
up the pipe and holds it to the mouth of the officiating per-
son, who, after smoking three whiffs out of it, utters a short
prayer, and then goes round with it, taking his course from
East to West, to every person present, who individually
says something to him on the occasion: and thus the pipe is
generally smoked out; when after turning it three or four
times round his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces
it in its original situation. He then returns the company
thanks for their attendance, and wishes them, as weil as the
whole tribe, health and long life.

_ These smoking rites precede every matter of great impor-
: tance, with more or less ceremony, but always with equal
solemnity. The utility of them will appear from ie fol-
lowing relation.

Ifa chief is anxious to know the disposition of his peo-
ple towards him, or if he wishes to settle any difference be-
tween them, he announces his intention of opening his me-
dicine-bag and. smoking in his sacred stem; and no man
who entertains a grudge against any of the par ty thus assem-
bled, can smoke withthe sacred stem : as that ceremony dissi-
saeeok all differences, and is never violated.

No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a
person May attend and be excused from assisting at the
eeremonies, by acknowledging that he has not apeesgene

L

72 A General History of the Fur Trade.

the necessary purification. The having cohabited with his
wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours pre-
ceding the ceremony, renders him unclean, and, consequent-
ly, disqualifies him from performing any part of it. If a
contract is entered into and solemnized by the ceremony of
smoking, it never fails of being faithfully fulfilled. Ifa
person, previous to his going a journey, leaves the sacred —
stem as a pledge of his return, no consideration whatever
will prevent him from executing his engagement.*

The chief, when he proposes to make a feast, sends
quills, or small pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to
such as he wishes to partake of | it. At the appointed time
the guests arrive, each bringing a dish or platter, and a
knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief, who re-
ceives them sitting, according to their respective ages. The
pipe is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of every |
thing that is provided. While the company are enjoying
their meal, the chief sings, and accompanies his song with
the tamborin,’ or shishiquoi, or.rattle. ‘The guest who has
first eaten his portion is considered as the most distinguish-_
ed person. If there should be any who cannot finish the
whole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on some of
their friends to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their
assistance with ammunition and tobacco. It is proper
also to remark, that at these feasts a small quantity of meat
or drink is sacrificed, before they begin to eat, by throwing
it into the fire, or on the earth.

These feasts differ according to circumstances ; sometimes
each man’s allowance is no more than he can dispatch i in a
couple of hours. At other times the quantity is sufficient —
to supply each of them with food for a week, though it must _
be devoured in a day. On these occasions it.is very diffi-
cult to procure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten
whatever time it may require. At some of these entertain-—
ments there is amore rational arrangement, when the guests
are allowed to carry home with them the superfluous part of
their portions. Great care is always taken that the bones
may be burned, as it would be considered a profanation
were the dogs permitted to touch them.

The public feasts are conducted in the same manner, bugis
with some additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at
them, and procure the necessary provisions, as well as pre-

* It ishowever to be lamented, that of late there isa relaxation of a
duties originally attached to these festivals.

A General History of the Fur Trade. 73

re a proper place of reception for the numerous company.
ere the guests discourse upon public topics, repeat the he-
roic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising genera-
tion to follow their example. The entertainments on these
occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practica-
ble to dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for sucha
large assembly ; yan the women and children are exclu-
ded. |
- Similar feasts used to be made at fidor ales and annually,
in honour of the dead; but they have been, for some time,
growing into disuse, and I never had an opportunity of be-
ing present at any of them.

» The women, who are forbidden to enter the places sacred
to these festivals, dance and sing around them, and some-
times beat time to the music within them; which forms an
Wereodite contrast. _

With respect to their divisions of time, they compute the
length of their journies by the number of nights passed in
performing them; and they divide the year by the succes-
sion of moons. ia this calculation, however, they are not
altogether correct, as they cannot account for the odd days.

+ The names which they give to the moons, are descriptive
‘of the several seasons. mie

May - - Atheikyo Pishim - - Frog-Moon.
June - - Oppinuo Pishim - - The Moon in which birds
begin to lay their eggs. ©

The Moon when birds cast
_ their feathers.
“wenceee - Aupahou o Pishite - + The Moon when the young
birds begin to fly.

- TheMoon when the moose-
. deer cast their horns.
Portaber - Wisac o Pishim - - The Rutting-Moon,
November Thithigon Pewaio Pishim Hoar-Frost-Moon.

Kuskatinayoui o Pishim Ice-Moon.

December Pawatchicananasis 0 Pishim Whirlwind-Moon.

July - - _Aupascen 0 Pishim

September Weaskiscon o Pishim.

January - Kushapawasticanum o Pishim Extreme cold Moon.
&) ebruary - Kichi Pishim - - = Big Moon; some ra ‘Old
: Moon.
“March ~~ - Micky sue Pishim - - Eagle Moon.
April - Niscaw o Pishim - - Goose-Moon.

*

These people know the medicinal virtues of many herbs

_and simples, and apply the roots of plants and the bark of

trees with success. But the conjurers, who monopolize the
medical science, find it necessary to blend mystery with

‘ t
i

74 A General History of the Fur Trade.

their art, and do not communicate their knowledge. Their

materia medica they administer in the form of purges and

clysters; but the remedies and surgical operations are sup-—

posed to derive much of their effect from magic and intan- —
tation. When a blister rises in the foot from the frost, the

chafing of the shoe, &c. they immediately open it, and ap- —
ply the heated blade of a knife to the part, which, painful —

as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp flint serves
them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification

in bruises and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an ani-
mal just killed is considered as the best remedy. They are —
very fond of European medicines, though they are ignorant —
of their application: and those articles form an inconsider- _

able part of the European trafic with them.

Among their various superstitions, they believe that the ;
vapour which is seen to hover over moist and swampy places, —
is the spirit of some person lately dead. ‘They also fancy —
another spirit which appears, in the shape of a man, upon

the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose proper- _

ie

ty has not been interred with them. He is "represented as.

bearing a gun in his hand, and it is believed that he does not. .

return to his rest, until the property that has been withheld - x

from the grave fo. been sacrificed to it. econ Oe

pa

Examples of the Knisteneaux and Algonquin Tongues.

we

Knisteneaux. - Algonquin.

Good Spirit- | - Kijai Manitou ~- Ki jai Manitou.

Evil Spirit - - Matchi manitou - Matchi manitou.

Man = - Ethini a ge,

Woman - = Esquois - - Ich-quois.

Male . -- - Naphew - = Aquoisi.

Female - - Non-gense - - Non-gense.

Infant - - A’ washish - Abi nont-chen.

Head - = Us tiquoin - O’chiti-goine, | i
Forehead = - ~"Eis-caa tick = - O catick. Pik ys
Hair - - Westy-ky - - Winessis.
Eyes - - Eskisoch - - Oskingick.

Nose - - Oskiwin - - O’chengewane.
‘ Nostrils - = Oo tith ee go mow Ni-de-ni-guom,

Mouth. ms - O toune - - O tonne.

My teeth - - Wippittah- - Nibit.

Tongue - - QOtaithani - - O-tai-na-ni.

Beard - = Michitoune - = -~ Omichitonn.

DS aca

AGeneral History of the Fur Trade.

Ears
Neck
Throat
Arms
Fingers
Nails
Side

My back
My belly
Thighs
My knees
Legs
Heart
My father -

My mother - |
My boy (son).
My girl (daughter
My brother, elder
My sister, elder -
My grandfather -
My grandmother -
My uncle
My nephew -
_Myniece - -
My mother in law
_ My brother in law
My companion -
My husband .
Blood - =

Eg gg gk Uy a a Se ae

)

Old Man
Iam angry -
I fear nid -
es
Hearing vs
Track *
Chief, great ruler
Thief /
Excrement -
Buffalo “
Ferret
Polecat te

Elk

Rein deer
Fallow deer -
Beaver i
Woolverine

Knisteneaux.
With itip -
O tow ee gie
O quiow -
O koot tas gy
© nisk. nx.
Che chee =
Wos kos sia
O’s spig gy -
No pis quan
Nattay
O povam -
No che quoin nah
Nosk ihe
Othea. -
Noo ta wie -
Nigah wei -
Negousis. -
Netanis -
Ni stess -
Ne miss -
Ne moo shum
N’okum -
N’ o’ka miss z
Ne too sim - -
Ne too sim esquois
Nisigouse -
Nistah -
Ne wechi wagan
Ni nap pem
Mith coo -
Shi nap <
Ne kis si wash en
Ne goos tow
Ne hea tha tom ©
Pethom dee pal
Mis conna -
Haukimah - /
Kismouthesk
Meyee -
Moustouche
Sigous -
Shicak -
Moustouche
Attick a
Attick -
Amisk -
Qui qua katch

i Sp St 1

73
Algonquin.

Aba-e winikan.
O-ta wagane.
O’quor gan.
Nigon dagane.
O nics. «

Ni nid gines,
Os-kenge.
Opikegan. |
Ni-pi quoini.
Ni my sat.
Obouame.

Ni gui tick.
Nigatte.
Othai.

- Nossai.

Nigah. _
Nigouissés.
Nidaniss..
Nis-a-yen.

- Nimisain.

Ni-mi-chomiss.

~ No-co-miss.

Ni ni michomen.
Ne do jim.
Ni-do-jim equois.
Ni sigousiss.
Nitah.
Ni-wit-chi-wagan.
Ni na bem.
Misquoi.

A ki win se.

Nis katissiwine;
Nisest guse.
Mamoud gikisi.
Oda wagan.
Pemi ka wois.
Kitchi onodis.
Ke moutiské.
Moui.

Pichike.
Shingouss.
Shi-kak.
Michat woi.
Atick.

Wa wasquesh.
Amic,

Quin quoagki.

Se

76 A General History of the Fur Trade.

Knisteneaux. Algonquin.
ak - - Ennequachas - Otchi ta mou. nee
Minx - - Saquasue - © + Shaugouch. rite
Oiter - - Nekick = *) Nigtick: 0 age
Wolf - - Mayegan © - - Maygan. 1c
Hare - - Wapouce - - Wapouce. wl
Marten = - - Wappistan - - Wabichinse. af
Moose - + Mouswah - ~ Monse. a
Bear - - Masqua = .- Macqua. in
Fisher - - Wijask - - Od-jsck.
Lynx +4 4/4 JPichen - - Pechou. »
Porcupine - - Cauquah - = Kack,
Fox - Makisew - - Wagouche.
Musk Rat - - Wayjask - ~ Wasjack.
Mouse = - Abicushiss - Wai wa be gou noge.
Cow Buffalo ~- Noshi Moustouche Nochena pichik.
Meat-flesh - - Wias - - Wi-ass,
Dog - - Atim - - Ani-mouse,
Fagle _. = - Makusue’ - - Me-guissis, i
Duck - - Sy Sip - - Shi-sip. Ree
Crow, Corbeau - Ca Cawkeu - Ka Kak. o
Bivan eh dh yole)! Wapiseut tiie - Wa-pe-sy. sei:
Turkey - = Mes sei thew - Mississay.
Pheasants - - Okeskew - - Ajack.
Bird - - Pethesew - - Pi-na-sy. uh
Outard - - Niscag - - Nic kack. oe
White Goose - Wey Wois = = = Woi wois. Wt
Grey Goose - Pestasish - = Pos ta kisk,
Partridge - - Pithew - - Pen ainse.
WaterMen 2 - Chiquibish -- - Chequi bis.
Dove - - Omi Mee - - Om-mis.
Eggs - WaWah - - Wa Weni.
Pike or Jock! - Kenonge - -- Kenongé.
Carp - - Na may bin - Na-me bine.
Sturgeon - - NaMay = - - Na Maiu.
White Fish - - Aticaming - = Aticaming.
Pikrel qm - - Oc-chaw - - Oh ga.
Fish (in general) - Kenongé - - Ki-cons.
Spawn _ - - Waquon - - - Wa quock.
Fins - «= Chichi kan - - O nidj-igan. -
Trout - - Nay gouse - - Na Men Gouse.
Craw Fish - - Ashag gee - - Achakens chacquiets
Frog eels OA thie | 7h - Omakaki. ci
Wasp - - Ah moo - » A mon, |
Turtle - «= Mikinack - - Mi-ki-nack.
Snake ~ - Kinibick — - - Ki nai bick.
Awl - - Oscajick = - Mas-gose.
Needle - + Saboinigan - ~- Sha-bo nigan

A

A General Eistory of the Fur Trade.

Fire Steel
Fire Wood
Cradle - -
Dagger
Arrow
Fish Hook
Ax -
Ear-bob -
‘Comb m
Net _
‘Tree
Wood
Paddle
Canoe
Birch Rind
Bark

* © © sf 8

Touch Wood
Leaf. -
Grass a
Raspberries -
Strawberries —
Ashes -
Fire S
Grapes -
Fog -
Mud -
Currant -
Road »
~ Winter .
Island =
aeake,

Sun oi
Boon 0 =
Da m
Seay. ss
Snow a
Rain ae
Drift i
Hail © i
Ice fe
Frost ‘
Mist *
Water e
World i
Mountain -

Knisteneaux.

Appet -

Mich-tah = -
-Teckinigan -

Ta comagau

Augusk or Atouche
Quosquipichican -

Shegaygan -
Chi-kisebisoun

Sicahoun “

-Athahe -
-Mistick -—
Mistick -
Abel. ~ 34
‘Chiman = -
“Wasquoi -
Wasquois -
Pousagan -
Nepeshah_ -
Masquosi_ -

Misqui-meinac
O’-tai-e minae

Picasyow =

Nepec =

oo
-
=
=
o
—

_Peécouch -
Scou tay -
Shomenac -
Pakishihow -
Asus ki “
Kisijiwin — -
Mescanah_ -
Pipoun -
Ministick -?
Sagayigan =
Pisim 2
Tibisca pesim (the.

night Sun)

Kigigah =
Tibisca -
Counah 4
Kimiwoin -
Pewan *
Shes eagan -
Mesquaming
Aquatin ~

P
Messe asky (all the

earth)
Wachee .

Algonquin.

_Scoutecgan.

Missane.
Tickina-gan.

Na-ba-ke-gou-man.
Mettic ka nouins.:
Maneton Miquiscane.

Wagagvette.

Na be chi be souns

Pin ack wan.
Assap.
Miti-coum.
Mitic.

Aboui.
S-chiman.
Wig nass.
On-na-guege.
Sa-ga-tagan.
Ni-biche.
Masquosti.
Misqui meinac.
O’-tai-e minac.
Pengoui.

Scou tay.
Shomenac.

A Winni.

A Shiski.

-Ki si chi woin.

Mickanan.
Pipone.
Miniss.
Sagayigan.
Kijis.

Dibic kijiss.
Kigi gattegy

-Dibic kawte.

So qui po.
Ki mi woint.
Pi-woine.
Me qua mensan.

‘Me quam.

Gas-ga-tin.
An-quo-et.
Ni-pei.
Missi achki.

Watchive.

78 | A General History of the Fur Trade.

Knisteneaux. Algonquin.
Sea - = ~ Kitchi kitchi ga ming Kicbi iicl ga
Morning - - Kequishepe - - Ki-ki-jep.
Mid-day - - Abetah quisheik - Na ock quoi.
Portage - - Unygam - - Ouni-gam.
Spring - - Menouscaming - Mino ka ming.
River - - Sipee - et SE,
Rapid - Bawastick - - Ba wetick.
Rivulet - - Sepeesis - - Sipi wes chin,
Sand - - Thocaw - - Ne gawe.
Earth - - Askee . ~ sige AER Hl.
Star - - Attack , ~ - Anang. |
Thunder - — - Pithuseu -,. - Nimiki.
Wind - - Thoutin - - No tine,
Calm - - Athawostin - A-no-a-tine.
Heat - Quishipoi_- - Aboycé.
Evening - - Takashiké - - O’n-a guche.
North - - Kywoitin - - Ke woitinak.
South - - Sawenawoon - Sha-wa-na-wang..
East - - Coshawcastak - Wa-ba-no-notine.
West . - - Paquisimou - - Panguis-chi-mo.
To-morrow = Wabank -— - Wa-bang.
Bone - - Oskann - - Oc-kann.
Broth | - - Michim waboi - Thaboub.
Feast - - Ma qua see - - Wi-con qui wine.
Grease or oil - Pimis - - Pimi-tais.
Marrow fat - Oscan pimis - Oska-pimitais.
Sinew = - Asstis _ - - Attiss. |
Lodge - - Wig-waum - - Wi-gui-wam.
Bed = - Nepawin - - Ne pai wine. “
Within - - Pendog ké - - Pendig. 4
Door - = Squandam - - Scouandam. :
Dish pi - Othagan - - O’ na gann.
Fort - - Wasgaigan - Wa-kuigan.
Sledge - - Tabanask - - Otabanac.
Cincture_ - - Poquoatehoun - Ketche pisou.
Cap -”. -- Astotin - - Pe matinang.
Stocks ~ - Ashican. - - A chi-gan.
Shirt - - Papacheweyan - Papakiweyan. —
Coat - - Papise-co-wagan - Papise-co-wagan.
Blanket - Wape weyang - Wape weyan.
Cloth - = Maneto weguin - Maneto weguin.
Thread - - Assabab - - Assabab. |
Garters 2 - Chi ki-bisoon - N igaske-tasse besoun,.

. Mittens ~ Astissack - - Medjicawine, |

Shoes oa ~ Maskisin - - Makisin. ih:
Smoking bag - Kusquepetagan - Kasquepetagan. y
Portage sling - Apisan = - Apican, | |

A General History of the Fur Trade.

Strait on
Medicine
Red

Blue

yet

Ugly
Handsome
Beautiful
Deaf
Good-natured
Pregnant -
Pat! <
Big -
Small or little
Short ©
Skin -

9)
®
.
&
c
* © ee © fF KE

Long «

Strong -

Coward <
Weak “
Lean rs
Brave -
Young man -
Cold a
Ho .:' is
aping = -
Summer *

Fall “

‘ One

Two

Four

Five

Six’ Ay
Seven -
Fight 2
Nine_ -
Ten ‘
Eleven Pe

Twelve. ”

Three .

i» & &

Boe 8 ee ER we Mw RF

79
Algonquin.
- Gorack.
- Macki-ki.
- Mes-cowa.

O-jawes-cowa,
- Wabisca.
- O-jawa.

Knisteneaux.
Goi ask -
Mas ki kee -
Mes coh ~
Kasqutch (same as
black) -
Wabiscas-
Saw waw -
Chibatiquare

Mache na gouseu
Catawassiseu
Kissi Sawenogan
Nima petom
Mithiwashin
Paawie i
Outhineu
Mushikitee -
Abisasheu -
Chemasish -
ian =
Kinwain ss -

Mascawa =

Sagatahaw -
Nitha missew
Mahta waw
Nima Gustaw

Osquineguish
Kissin -
Kichatai -
Minouscaming
Nibin -
Tagowagonk
Peyac -
-Nisheu -
Nishtou -
Neway -
Ni-annan~ -
Negoutawoesic

Nish wiosic -
Jannanew -
Shack -
Mitatat -

Peyac osap -
-Nisheu osap

M

s
8

- O’jawes-cowa.

O’jawes-cowa.
O’jowes-cowa.
- Mous-conu-gouse.
- Nam bissa.
- Quoi Natch.
- Kaki be chai.
Onichishin,
And’jioko.
Oui-ni-noe.
Messha.
Agu-chin.
Tackosi. ©
Wian.
Kiniwa., ~
Mache-cawa.
Mas cawise.
- Cha-goutai-ye.
- Cha-gousi.
- Kawaca-tosa.
- Son qui taigé.
Oskinigui.
Kissinan.
Kicha tat.
Minokaming.
Nibiqui.
Tagowag.
Pecheik.
Nige.
Nis-wois.
Ne-au. —
Na-nan.
Ni gouta waswois.
Nigi-was-wois.
- She was wois.
- Shang was wois.
- Mit-asswois.
- Mitasswois, hachi, pe-
cheik.
- Mitasswois,hachi, nige

80

Thirteen
Fourteen
Fifteen |
Sixteen
Seventeen
Eighteen
Nineteen

Twenty

A General History of the Fur Trade.

‘Twenty-one

Twenty-two,

Thirty
Forty
Fifty
Sixty

Seventy
Eighty
Ninety
Hundred

&e.

Two Hundred

One Thousand

First
Last
More
Better

Best

I, or me

You, or thou
_ They, or them

We

My, or mine

Your’s
Who
Whom

Knisteneaux.

Nichtou .osap ‘ely

Neway osap heaca

_Niannan osap -

Algonquin.
Mitasswois, hachi, nis-
WwoOis. = | § os

MAL hachi, ne-
au.

Mitasswois, bails na-
nan.

‘ ‘ 2 *. ;
Nigoutawoesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, ne-

Nish woesic osap -
Jannanew osap--
Shack osap - -

Nisheu mitenah -
Nishew mitenah
peyac osap -
Nisheu mintenah
nisheu osap
Nishtou mitenah -
Neway mitenah =<
Niannan-mitenah -
Negoutawoisic mi-
tenah
Nishwoisic mitenah
Jannaeu mitenah -
Shack mitenah “
Mitana mitinah’-
Neshew mitenaa
mitenah
Mitenah. mitena
mitenah
Nican ms ir
Squayatch - -
Minah i -
Athiwack mithawa-
shin
Athiwack mithawa-
shin
Nitha = -
Kitha = -
Withawaw | -
Nithawaw - -
Nitayan “ Z
Kitayan j ze

Awoiné “ "

gontawaswois.
Mitasswois, hachi, nigi
waswois.
Mitasswois, hachi, shi-
waswois.
Mitasswois, hachi, —
shang 4s wois.
Nigeta-nan.

Nigeta nan, hachi,
pechic.

Niswois mitanan.
Neau mitanan.
Nanan mitanan.
Nigouta was wois mi-
tanan.
Nigiwas.wois mitanan
She was wois mitanan.
Shang was wois mita-
Ningoutwack. [nan,

Nige wack,
Kitchi-wack.
Nitam.
Shaquoiyanque.
Awa chi min.
Awachimin 0 nichi
shen, .
Kitchi o nichi shin.

Nin.

Kin.

Win na wa.
Nina wa.
Nida yam.
Kitayam.
Auoni.
Kegoi nin.

A General History of the Fur Trade.

“What - -

~ His, or her’s’ -

All

_ Some, or some few
The same - -

All the world

All the men e

More “fits -

Now and then
Sometimes

To cover - i:
To believe - -
To sleep - -
To dispute - .
Todance - -
To give - -
Ou .% ®
~ To eat . "
To die a iH
To forget - _
To speak - -
To cry (tears) -
To laugh - ~
To set down m
fowalk ..:.- -
To fall - ~
io work. - *
To kill ss fi
To sell - i
To live -
To see = Att
Wocome - |.
_ Enough sm 4
‘Cry (tears) -_.-
Tt hails K i
‘There is &
There is some t
It rains ss i
After to-morrow -
To-day ' a

Knisteneaux.

Otayan - -

'Kakithau ss - -

Pey peyac - -
Tabescoutch “
Missi acki wanque

81
Algonquin.

Wa.

Otayim mis.

Kakenan.

Pe-pichic.

Mita yoche.

Mishiwai asky.

Kakithaw Ethinyock Missi Inini wock.

Mina - -

I as-cow-puco
Ta couchin -
Otamaha-~ -
Mistascasoo -
Nagamoun -
Kisquishan
Catann
Acquahoun
Taboitam
Nepan-— -
Ke ko mi towock -
Nemaytow - -
Mith
Ogitann 7 i
Wissinee~ - -
Nepew -

Winnekiskisew

Athimetakousé — -
Mantow - -
Papew - -
Nematappe - -
Pimoutais - 4
Packisin ~ -
Ah tus kew -
Nipahaw
Attawoin
Pimatise
Wabam
Astamoteh’
Egothigog
Manteau
Shisigan

Aya wa

Quimiwoin - -
Awis wabank ss
Anoutch - i

Mina wa.
Nannigoutengue.

Wica-ac-ko,
Ta-gouchin.
Packit-ais,
Icha-quiso.
Nagam.

Qui qui jan,
Caso tawe.,
Aco na oune.
Tai boitam.

Ni pann.

Ki quaidiwine.
Nimic.

Mih. ~
O-gitoune.
Wissiniwin.
Ni po wen.
Woi ni mi kaw.
Aninntagoussé,
Ma wi.

Pa-pe.

Na matape win.
Pemoussai.
Panguishin.
Anokeh.
Nishi-woes.
Ata wois.
Pematis.

Wab.
Pitta-si-mouss,
Mi mi nic.
Ambia ma wita.
Sai saigaun.

Aya wan.
Qui mi woin.
Awes wabang.

Non gum.

£2 A General History of the Fur Trade.
Knisteneaux. Algonquin.
Thereaway - . + Netoi - - «= Awoité.
Much 64 - Michett - - Nibi wa.
Presently = + Pichisqua - + Pitchinac,
Make, heart - - Quithipeh - + Waiwe be.
This morning - Shebas - - Shai bas:
This night - -' Tibisecag = - De bi cong.
Above - - Espiming - - O kitchiai,
Below ~ - Tabassish - - Ana mai.
Truly © = + Taboiy - = Ne do wache.
Already - - Sashay - - Sha shaye.
Yet, more < « Minah . - - Mina wa

Yesterday - - Tacoushick - " Pitchinago.

Far = - Wathow - - Wassa.
Near “ - Quishiwoac - + Paishous
Never - - Nima wecatch - Kawika.
No - - Nima * - Ka wine.
Yes - - Ah = Ne he

By and bye « - Pa-nima- - - Pa-nima,
Always - « Kakikee +» «+ Kadqui nick.
Make haste ~ - Quethepeh - - Niguim.
Its long since * - Mewaisha -° + Mon wisha.

Some Account of the Chepewyan Indians.

"Tury are a numerous people, who consider the country )
between the parallels of latitude 60. and 65. North, and lon-
‘gitude 100. to 110. West, as their lands or bys They
speak a copious language, which is very difficult to be at- —

tained, and furnishes dialects to the various emigranttribes _

which inhabit the following immense track of country, whose
boundary Ishall describe.* It begins at Churchill, and runs
along the line of separation between them and the Kniste-
neaux, up the Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing on
through the Buffalo Lake, River Lake, and Portage la
Loche: from thence it proceeds by the Elk Riverto the ©
Lake of the Hills, and goes directly West to the Peace Ri- _
ver ; and up that river to its source and tributary waters ;

* Those of them who come to trade with us, do not exceed eight hun-
dred men, and have a smattering of the Knisteneaux Seon in whe ‘ee
carry on their dealings with us. yl

A General History of the Fur Trade. 83

‘om whence it proceeds to the waters of the river Colum-
bia; and follows that river to latitude 52. 24. North, and
longitude 122. 54. West, where the Chepewyans have the
. or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then takes

-aline due West to the sea-coast, within which the country 1s

‘possessed by a people who speak their language,* and are
consequently descended from them: there canbe no doubt,
therefore, of their progress beingtothe Eastward. A tribe
of them is even known at the upper establishments on the
Saskatchiwine ; and I do not pretend to ascertain how iar

_ they may follow the Rocky Mountains to the East,

_ Itis not possible to form any just estimate of their num-
bers, but it is apparent, nevertheless, that they are by no
Means proportionate to the vast extent of their territories,
which may, in some degree, be attributed to the ravages of

_ the small-pox, which are, more or less, evident throughout

this part of the continent.

The notion which these people entertain of the creation,
is of avery singular nature. ‘They believe that, at the first,
the globe was one vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no
living creature, excepta mighty bird, whose eyes were fire,
whose glances were lightning, and the clapping of whose
wings were thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and
touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained on the
surface of the waters. ‘This omnipotent bird then called

forth all the variety of animals from the earth, except the

Chepewyans, who were produced from a dog; and this
circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that ani-

_ mal, as well as the people who eat it. ‘This extraordinary

tradition proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having

finished his work, made an arrow, which was to be preserv-

ed with great care, and to remain untouched; but that the
Chepewyans were so devoid of understanding, as to carry it
away: and the sacrilege so enraged the great bird, that he
has never since appeared.
__ They have also a tradition amongst them, that they ori-
ginally came from another country, inhabited by very wick-
ed people, and had traversed a great lake, which was nar-
row, shallow, and full of Islands, where they had suffered
great misery, it being always winter, with ice and deep
igh At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the
urst land, the ground was covered with copper, over which

es The coast is inhabited on the North-West by the Esquimaux,and on
the Pacific Ocean by a people different from both.

e4 A General History of the F ur Trade.

a body of earth had since been elle cea to the depth of
man’s height. They believe, also, that i in ancient time
their ancestors lived till their feet were worn out with walk
ing, and their throats with eating. They describe a deluge,
when the waters spread over the whole earth, except the
highest mountains, on the tops of which they preserved
themselves.

They believe, that immediately after their death, they
pass into another world, where they arrive at a large river,
on which they embark in a stone canoe, and that a genth
current bears them on to an extensive lake, in the centre «
which is a most beautiful island ; and that, m the view of
this delightful abode, they receive that judgment for their
conduct during life, which terminates their final state and
unalterable allotment. If their good actions are declared to
predominate, they are landed upon the Island, where there
is to be no end to their happiness ; ; which, however, accor-
ding to their notions, consists in an eternal enjoyment of
sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if their bad
actions weigh down the balance, the stone cance sinks’ at
once, and leaves them up to their chins in the water, to be-
hold and regret the reward enjoyed by the good, and eter-
nally struggling, but with unavailing endeavours, to’ reach
the blissful island, from which they are excluded forever.

They have some faint notions of the transmigration of
the soul; so that if a child be born with teeth , they instant-
ly imagine, from its premature appearance, that it bears a
resemblance to some person who had lived to an advanced
period, and that he has assumed a renovated life, with these
extraordinary tokens of maturity. te

The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and vagrant, with
a selfish disposition which has sometimes created suspicions
id their integrity. Their stature has nothing remarkable in

; but though they are seldom corpulent, they are some- |
if robust. Their complection is swarthy ; their features
coarse, and their hair lank, but not always of a dingy black ;
nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally
animates the Indian countenance. ‘The women have a
more agreeable aspect than the men, but their gait is
aukward, which proceeds from their being accustomed nine
months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and drag sledges
of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are
very submissive to their husbands, who have, however,
their fits of jealousy; and, for very trifling causes, treat

A General History of the Fur Trade. 85

them with such cruelty as sometimes to occasion their death.
‘They are frequently objects of traffic; and the father pos-
‘sesses the right of disposing of his daughter.* The men
ir general extract their beards, though some of them are seen
to prefer a bushy, black beard, toa smooth chin. They cut
‘their hair in various forms, or leave it ina long, natural
flow, according as their caprice or fancy suggests. ‘The
women always wear it in great length, and some of them
are very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time
‘appear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof
of the husband’s jealousy, and is considered as a severer
punishment than manual correction. Both sexes have blue
or black bars, or from one to four straight lines on their
cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the tribe to which they
yelong. These marks are either tatooed, or made by draw-
Ing a thread, dipped in the necessary colour, beneath the
‘ There are no people more attentive to the comforts of
their dress, or less anxious respecting its exterior appear-
ance. In the winter it is composed of the skins of deer,
and their fawns, and dressed as fine as any chamois leather,

in the hair. In the summer their apparel is the same, ex-
cept that it is prepared without the hair. Their shoes and
leggins are sewn together, the latter reaching upwards to the
middle, and being supported by a belt, under which a small
piece of leather is drawn to cover the private parts, the ends
_ of which fall down both before and behind. In the shoes they
put the hair of the moose or rein-deer, with additional pieces
of leather as socks. The shirtor coat, when girted round
the waist, reaches to the middle of the thigh, and the mit-
tens are sewed to the sleeves, or are suspended by strings
rom the shoulders. A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck,
and the skin of the head of the deer forms a curious kind of
cap. A robe, made of several deer or fawn skins sewed to-
gether, covers the whole. This dress is worn single or
double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and
without. Thus arrayed, a Chepewyan will lay himself down
on the ice in the middle of a lake, and repose in comfort ;
10 igh he will sometimes find a difficulty in the morning
to disencumber himself from the snow drifted on him dur-
‘ingthenight. If in his passage he should be in want of pro-

& se e bs . .
Vision, he cuts an hole in the ice, when he seldom fails of
Ve Pea 3

=

_ * They do not, however, sell them as slaves, but as companions to those
who are supposed to live more comfortably than themselves.

86 A General History of the Fur Trade.

taking some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops
out, and eats as a great delicacy ; but if they should not be
suflicient to satisfy his appetite, he will, in this necessity,
make his meal of the fish in its raw state ; but, those whom
I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when circumstances
admitted the necessary preparation. When they are in that
part of their country which does not produce a sufficient
quantity of wood for fuel, they are reduced to the same ex+
igency , though they generally dry their meat in the sun.*
The dress of the women differs from that of the men.
Their leggins are tied below the knee; and their coat or
shift is wide, hanging down to the ancle, and is tucked up
at pleasure by means of a belt, which is fastened round the
“waist. Those who have children have these garments madé
very full about the shoulders, as when they are travelling
they carry their infants upon their backs, next their skin, in
which situation they are perfectly comfortable and in a po=
_ sition convenient to be suckled. Nor do they discontinue
to give their milk to them until they have another child.
Child-birth is not the object of that tender care and serious:
attention among the savages as it is among civilized people.
At this period no part of their usual occupation is omitted,
and this continual and regular exercise must contribute to
the welfare of the mother, both in the progress of parturi-.
tion and in the moment of delivery. ‘The women have a
singular custom of cutting off a small piece of the ht
string of the new-born children, and hang it about their
necks: they are also curious in the covering they make for
it, which they decorate with porcupine’s quills and beads.

* The provision called Pemican, on which the Chepewyans, as well as
the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in their journies, is pre-
pared in the following manner. The lean parts of the flesh of the larger
animals are cut in thin slices, and are placed on a wooden grate over a slow
fire, or exposed to the sun, and sometimes to the frost. These operations:
dry it, and in that state it is pounded between two stones: it will then
keep with care for several years. If, however, it is kept i in large quantities,
it is disposed to ferment ia the spring of the year, when it must be exposed
to the air, or it will soon decay. The inside fat, and that of the rum
which is much thicker in these wild than our domestic animals, 1 is melted:
down and mixed, in a boiling state, with the pounded meat, in equal pro-
portions : it is then put in baskets or bags for the convenience of carryin
it. Thus it becomes a nutritious food, and is eaten, without any furth
preparation, or the addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farinaceous
substance. A little time reconciles it to the palate. There is another sort
eet with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which is of a superior
quality.

‘ _ A General History of the Fur Trade. 87

| | Though the women are as much in the power of the men,

as any other articles of their property, they are always con-

sulted, and possess a very considerable influence in the traf-
~ fic with Europeans, and other important concerns.

~ Plurality of wives is common among them, and the cere-

- mony of marriage is of avery simple nature. The girls are

| r betrothed at a very early period to those whom the parents

- think the best able to support them: nor is the inclination
of the woman considered. Whenever a separation takes

_ place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the

will and pleasure of the husband. In common with the other

- Indians of this country, they have a custom respecting the

_ periodical state of a woman, which is rigorously observed:

at that time she must seclude herself from society. They

are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same path

-as the men, when travelling: and it is considered a great
breach of decency for a woman so circumstanced to touch
any utensils of manly occupation. Such a circumstance is

“supposed to defile them, so that their subsequent use would

“be followed by certain mischief or misfortune. There are
particular skins which the women never touch, as of the
bear and wolf; and those animals the men are seldom known
to kill. :

They are not remarkable for their activity as hunters,
which is owing to the ease with which they snare deer and
spear fish: and these occupations are not beyond the strength

of their old men, women, and boys: ‘so that they participate
in those laborious occupations, which among their neigh-
bours are confined to the women. ‘They make war on the

Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior numbers, and

put them to death, as it is a principle with them never to

make prisoners. At the same time they tamely submit to
the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous as themselves,

_ when they treat them as enemies.

’. They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting, either
ne themselves or strangers, which is common with the
Knisteneaux, but communicate mutually, and at once, all
the information of which they are possessed. Nor are they
roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of great
activity. They are consequently more uniform in this res-
pect, though they are of a very persevering disposition when
their interest is concerned.

As these people are not addicted to spirituous liquors,
they have a regular and uninterrupted use of their under-
N

88 A General Eistory of the Fur Trade.

standing,which is always directed tothe advancement of their _

own interest; and this disposition,as may be readily imagin-
ed, sometimes occasions them to be charged with fraudu-

lent habits. They will submit with patience to the severest
treatment, when they are conscious that they deserve it, but
will never forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary ri-—

gour. A moderate conduct I never found.to fail, nor do ig

hesitate to represent them, altogether, as the most ‘peaceable |

tribe of Indians known in North America.

There are conjurers and high-priests, but-I was not pre-
sent at any of their ceremonies ; though they certainly
operate in an extraordinary manner on the imaginations of
the people in the cure of disorders. ‘Their principal mala-
dies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and consumption. The
venereal complaint is very common ; but though its progress
is slow, it gradually undermines the constitution, and brings
on premature decay. ‘They have recourse to superstition
for their cure, and charms are their only remedies, except
the bark of the willow, which being burned and reduced to
powder, is strewed upon green wouhds and ulcers, and
places contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use of
simples and plants they have no knowledge ; nor can it be
expected, as their country does not produce them. _ ,

Though they have enjoyed so long an intercourse -with

Europeans, their country is so barren, as not to be capable
of producing the ordinary necessaries naturally introduced
by such a communication ; and they continue, in a great
measure, their own inconvenient and aukward modes of
taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes
they drive the deer into the small lakes, where they spear
them, or force them into inclosures, where the bow and ar-
row are employed against them. ‘These animals are also
taken in snares made of skin. In the former instance the
game is divided among those who have been engaged i in the
pursuit of it. In the latter it is considered as private pro-
perty; nevertheless, any unsuccessful hunter passing by,

may take a deer so caught, leaving the head, skin, and sad- |

dle for the owner. ‘hus, though they have no regular

government, as every man is lord in his own family, they

are influenced, more or less, by certain principles which
conduce to their general benefit.

In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely pro-

ceed to a greater degree of violence than is occasioned by —
blows, wrestling, and pulling of the hair, while their abusive

:
:
:
:

A General History of the Fur Trade. 89

language consists in applying the name of the most offensive

animal to the object of their eisphaenes and adding ‘the

term ugly, and chiay, or still-born.*

__. Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the ar-
ticles procured from Europeans, are spears, bows and ar-

rows, fishing-nets, and lines made of green deer-skin thongs.

They have also nets for taking the beaver as he endeavours

to escape from his lodge when it is broken open. It is set
in a particular manner for the purpose, and a man is em-
ployed to watch the moment when he enters the snare, or
he would soon cut his way through it. He is then thrown
upon the ice, where he remains as if he had no life in him.

The snow-shoes are of very superior workmanship. ‘The
inner part of their frame is straight, the outer one is curved,
and it is pointed at both ends, with that in front turned up.
They are also laced with great neatness with thongs made
of deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin slips of board

turned up also in front, and are highly polished with crooked

knives, in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained
wood is, on that account, the best; but theirs are made of
the red or swamp spruce-fir tree.

The country, which these people claim as their land, has
a very small quantity of earth, and produces little or no
wood or herbage. Its chief vegetable substance is the moss,

on which the deer feed; and a kind of rock moss, which, in
_ times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the natives. When

boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy, glutinous sub-

‘stance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. But,

notwithstanding the barren state of their country, with pro-
per care and economy, these people might live in great com-
fort, for the lakes abound with fish, and the hills are covered
with deer. Though, of all the Indian people of this con-
tinent, they are considered as the most provident, they suf-
fer severely at certain seasons, and particularly in the dead
of winter, “when they are under the necessity of retiring to
their scanty, stinted woods. ‘To the Westward of them the
musk-ox may be found, but they have no dependence on it
as an article of sustenance. ‘There are also large hares, a
few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and several
kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, &c. “The
beaver and moose deer they do not find until they come
within 60 degrees North latitude, and the buffalo ‘is still

* This name is also applicable to the foetus of an animal, when killed,
which is considered as one of the greatest delicacies. ©

90) A General History of the Fur Trade.

further South. That animal is known to frequent an high-
e¥ latitude to the Westward of their country. These peo- —

ple bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are

found on the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears —
a fine polish, and hardens with time; it indures het, and

is Manufactured into pipes or calumets, as they are very

fond of smoking tobacto; a luxury which the Burepeans”

communicated to them. ©

Their amusements or recreations are but few. ‘Their
music is so inharmonious, and their dancing so aukward, —

that they might be supposed to be ashamed of both, as they
very seldom practise either. They also shoot at marks, and.
play at the games common among them ; but in fact they pre-
fer sieeping to either; and the greater part of theiy time is
passed in procuring food, and resting from the toil necessa-
ry to obtain it.

They are also of a querulous disposition, andia are contin- |

ually making complaints; which they express by a constant

repetition of the word eduiy, “it is hard,” in a whining and

plaintive tone of voice. ‘

They are superstitious in the extreme, and almost every
action of their lives, however trivial, is more or less in-
fluenced by some whimsical notion. I never observed that
they had any particular form of religious worship ; but as
they believe in a good andevil spirit, and a state of future re-
wards and punishments, they cannot be dev oid of religious’
impressions. /\t the same time they manifest a decided
unwillingness to make any communications on the subject.

The Chepewyans have been accused of abandonitig their
aged and infirm people to perish, and of not burying their
dead ; but these are melancholy necessities, which proceed
from their wandering way of life. They are by no means
universal, for it is within my knowledge, that a man, ren-
dered helpless by the palsy, was carried about for many years,
with the greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a na~
tural death. ‘That they should not bury their dead in their
owncountry, cannot be imputed tothem as a custom arising
from a savage insensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes

that the ground never thaws; but it 1s well known, that .

when they are in the woods, they cover their dead with
trees. Besides, they manifest no common respect to the
memory of their departed friends, by a long period of
mourning, cutting off their hair, and never making use.of

A General History of the Fur Trade. 91

the property of the deceased. Nay, they frequently destroy
or sacrifice their own, as a token of regret and sorrow.
_ Ifthere be any people who, from the barren state of their
country, might be supposed to be cannibals by nature, these
people, from the difficulty they, at times, experience in
procuring food, might be liable to that imputation. But,
in all my knowledge of them, I never was acquainted with
one instance of that disposition; nor among all the natives
which I met with in a route of five thousand miles, did I
see or hear of an example of cannibalism, but such as arose
from that irresistible necessity, which has been known to
impel even the most civilized people to eat each other.

~

Example of the Chepewyan Tongue.

Man . - - Dinnie.
Woman mye - Chequois.
Young man : - Quelaquis. :
Young woman -— - Quelaquis chequoi..
My son - - ° Zi azay-

My daughter - . Zi lengai. -
My husband. - ° Zi dinnie.

~My wife - ° > Zi zayunai.
My brother - - Zi raing.
My father - - : Zi tah.
My mother tye Gnal.
My grandfather - - Zi unai.
Me, or my ss ‘ See.
I be " é 4 Ne.
You -- " ” by sa,
They - Aaa . Be.
Head - z 4 - Edthie.

- Hand : « 3 Law.
Kbeg. - He " “ E.dthen.
Foot " - z Crphs

Eyes i r “ Nackhay.
Teeth - a * - Goo. .
Side " ig P Kac-hey.

Belly - ee Bitt.

-

s

92 A General History of the Fur Trade.

' Tongue were yond,
Hair ~ depres de
Back “ wl

Blood » glade:

The knee -
Clothes, or Blanket

Moat sueccpoe gaye aay
2” dueppinin iia patoare ton
Shoes ie +i.

Robe, or Pace
Sleeves ‘Ligaen ¢
Mittens . - -
Cap - - -
Swan - - ee
Duck - € -
Goose . - =,
White partridge - ~
Grey partridge -
Buffalo : :

Moose deer “
Rein deer iis
Beaver - -
Bear - i‘ is
Otter - .
Marten - -
Wolvereen - -
Wolf i é
Fox - ¥ -
Hare 5 i
Dog = os a
Beaver-skin i
Otter-skin a
Moose-skin -
Fat - 2 "
Grease ‘ "
Meat ” 1
Pike -
White-fish - e
Trout i iM
Pickerel OS f
Fish-hook - "
Fish-line = -
One - Z ie
Two .- a

Three “ i

(+ & 4

Edthuyh oeia hour ganaadial

Thiegah. -

Losseh. . sccvekt $A
Dell. wud J phaies Mon ee Ae
Cha-gutt. . | +e
Etlunay.

Eeh. . .

Thell.

Kinchee.

Thuth.

Bah.

Sah.
Kagouce.
Keth.
Gah.

Cas bah.
Deyee.
Giddy.
Dinyai.

Edthun.

“ah.

Lass.

Naby-ai.

Thah.

Naguiyai. ;
Yess (Nouneay.) .
agueiey

Cah.

Sliengh.

Zah thith.

Naby-ai thith.
Deny-ai thith. ~
Icah. a
Thless.

Bid.

Uldiah.

Slouey.

Slouyzinai.

O’Gah.
Ge-eth.
Clulez.
Slachy. > sey
Naghur.
Tagh-y.

AGeneral History of the Fur Trade. 93°

\

ere = abes Dengk-y.
Five -. - - - Sasoulachee..
Six s- oe Mokeasien Alki tar-hy-y.
Seven re -/ i yaet
_ Eight : L. - Alki deing-hy.
Nine - ‘ ss : Cakina hanoth-na.
Bere iii. wedylrcounss Ca noth na. -
Twenty ea Re - Na ghur cha noth na.
Fire - " wisi) Counn.
: Water = os = Toue. m
Wood athe ae mi Dethkin.
; dopiin-ieor™.° Thun.
Snow - E - - Yath.
_ Rain i ‘ - Thinnelsee.
Lake - ‘i . . Touey.
_ River - - Tesse.
Mountain - : - Zeth.
Stone Ss in - = Thaih.
Berries 4 - a Gui-eh,
ao lle : - E.dowh.
Cold. - - Edzah.
Island ie ee Nouey.
Uf ean ee i is - Telkithy.
Powder - - - Telkithy counna.
Knife - a ss é Bess.
Axe. = =< .-~ Thynle,
pun. “ s -
0 } Sah.
Red - s “ Deli couse.
Black - 3 p ss Dell zin.
Trade, or barter - ss Na-houn-ny.
ood - 2 _ zs Leyzong.
Not good - - - Leyzong houlley.
Stinking = - “ - . Geddey. |
Bad, ugly - aj - Slieney.
mone since- - - Galladinna.
_ Now, to-day i = Ganneh.
To-Morrow Ae - Gambeh.
By and bye, or presentl Carahoulleh.
House, or lodge - - Cooen.
Canoe - ‘A 3 Shaluzee.
Door - f ‘ : The o ball.
Leather-Lodge 8 3 N’abalay.

Chief - 3 3 4 Buchahudry.

94 A General History of the Fur Trade.

Bime . Qh~ 2 4
His. : - >
Your’s a -.
Large - = ‘

Small, or little -
I love you - - -

Thate you -. - -
I am to be pitied - -
My relation ~ >
Give me water - -
Give me meat - -

Give me fish s stbitphd

Give me meat to eat -
Give me water to drink
Is it ‘far off 24)" 3 S
Is it near - a -
It is not far i ¥
Itis near - es oll:

How many - .

What call you him, or that
Come here - od 5
Pain, or suffering -
iv’shard ©. i
You lie t u! 4

Whatthen - 2 -

Zidzy. : ee
Bedzyr') s > .
Nuntzy.

Unshaw.

Chautah. 4
Ba ehoinichdinh. - )
Bucnoinichadinh hillay. —
Est-chounest-hinay.
Sy lod, innay.

Too hesniien
Beds-hanniltu.

~ Sloeeh-anneltu.

Bid Barheether. |
To Barhithen.
Netha uzany.
Nilduay uzany.
Nitha-hillai. -
Nilduay. - .
Etlaneldey. -
Ktla houllia. -

Yeu dessay. ~

I-yah. - -
Eduyah,

Untzee,," s
Edlaw-gueh,

mil
¢
*

JOURNAL

OF

A VOYAGE, &.

CHAPTER I.

Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the Lake of the Hills, in
company with M. Le Roux. Account of the party, pro-
visions, &8c. «Direction of the course. Enter one of the
branches of the Lake. Arrive inthe Peace River. Ap-
pearance of the land. Navigation of the river. Arrive
at the mouth of the Dog River. Successive description of
several carrying places. A canoe lost in one of the falls.
Encamp on Point de Roche. Course continued. Set the
nets, &Sc. Arrive at the Slave Lake. The weather ex-
tremely cold. _ Banks of the river described, with its trees,
soil, &c. Account of the animal productions, and the
fishery ofthe Lake. Obliged to wait till the moving of the
ice. Three families of Indians arrive from Athabasca.
Beavers, geese, and swans killed. The nets endangered
by ice. Re-embark and land on a smallisland. Course
continued along the shores, and across the bays of the
Lake. Various successes of the hunters. Steer for an
_ island where there was plenty of cranberries and small
onions. Kill several rein-deer. Landon an island named
Isle Gla Cache. Clouds of musquitoes.

June, 1789. W ; i f
Wedees. 3. E embarked at nine o’clock in the morning,
at Fort Chepewyan, on the South side of the Lake of the
Hills, in latitude 58. 40. North, and longitude 110. 30.
West from Greenwich, and compass has sixteen degrees
variation East, in acanoe made of birch bark. The crew
consisted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended
by their wives, and a German; we were accompanied also

by an Indian, who had acquired the title of English Chief,

N ore. Itisto be observed, that the Courses throughout the Journals
are taken by Compass, and that the Variation must be considered.

A

2 Fournal of a Voyage through the

and ie two wives, ina small canoe, with two young In- |
dians ; his followers in another small canoe. ‘These men
were engaged to serve us in the two-fold capacity of inter- —
preters and hunters. © This Indian was one of the followers

of the chief who conducted Mr. Hearne to the copper-mine_
river, and has since been a principal | leader of his country-

men who were.in the habit of carrying furs to Churchill

Factory, Hudson’s Bay, and till of late very much attach-

ed to the interest of that company. These circumstances

procured him the appellation of the English Chief.

We were also accompanied by a canoe that I had equip-
ped for the purpose of trade, and given the charge of it to
_M. Le Roux, one of the Company’s clerks... In this Iwas
obliged to ship part of our provision; which, with the
clothing necessary for us on the voyage, a proper assort-
ment of the articles of merchandize as presents, to ensure
us a friendly reception among the Indians, and the ammu-
nition and arms requisite for defence, as well as a supply
for our hunters, were more than our own canoe could carry,
but by the time we should part company, there was every
reason to suppose that our expenditure would make Ae
cient room for the whole.

We proceeded twenty-one miles to the West, and then
took a course of nine miles to North-North-West, when |
we entered the river, or one of the branches of the lake, of —
which there are several. We then steered North five miles,
when our course changed for two miles to North.North- _
East, and here, at seven in the evening, we landed and
pitched our tents. One of the hunters killed a goose, and
a couple of ducks; at the same time the canoe was taken
out ofthe water, to be gummed, which necessary business
was effectually performed.

Thursday 4. . We embarked at four this morning, and
proceeded North-North- East halfa mile, North one mile
and a half, Westtwo miles, North-West two miles, West-
North-West one mile and a half,- North-North-W est half
a mile,and West-North-Westtwo miles, when this branch
Vices ase nae eee River. It is remagulaeie that the
currents of these various branches of the lake, when the
Peace River is high, as in May and August, run into the
lake, which in the other months of the year returns its wa-
ters to them ; whence to this place, the branch is not more
than two hundred yards wide, nor less than an hundred
and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in one

_ North-West Continent of America. 3

pl ace, where an huge rock rises above them. The low
fand™is covered with wood, such as white birch, pines of
different kinds, with the poplar, three kinds of willow, and
the Marg.” '

“The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this spot,
Sint its current is stronger than that of the channel which
communicates with the lake. It here, indeed, assumes
the name of the Slave River.* The course of this day
was as follows :—-North-West two miles, North-North-
West, through islands, six miles, North four miles and a
half, North by East two miles, West by North six miles,
North one mile, North-East by East two miles, North
one mile. We now descended a rapid, and proceeded
North-West seven ‘miles and a half, North-West nine
miles, North by West six miles, North-West by West
‘one mile and a half, North-West by North half a mile,
‘North-North-West six miles, North one mile, North-
West by West four miles, North-North-East one mile.
Here we arrived at the mouth of the Dog River, where
we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at half past seven in
the evening, on the East side, and close by the rapids.
At this station the river is near two leagues in breadth.

Friday 5. At three o’clock in the morning we embark-
éd, ‘but unloaded our canoes at the first rapid. When we
had reloaded, we entered asmall channel, which is form-
ed by the tals, and, in about half an hour) we came to
the carrying place. It is three hundred and eighty paces
in length, and very commodious, except at the further end
ofit. We found some difficulty in re-loading at this spot,
from the large quantity: of ice which had not yet thawed.
From hence to the next carrying place, called the Portage
@ Embarras, is about six miles, and is occasioned by the
drift wood filling up the small channel, which is one thou-
sand and twenty paces in length ; from hence to the next is
one mile and a half, while the distance to that which suc-
ceeds, does not exceed one hundred and fifty yards. Itis
about the same length as the last; and from hence to the
carrying place called the Mountain, is about four miles
further ; when we entered the great river. The smaller

ike wh
Meet

* The Slave Indians having been driven from their original country,

by their enemies the Knistenaux, along the borders of this part of the

_ river, it received that title, though it by no means involves the idea of

servitude, but was given to these fugitives as a term of reproach, that
a denoted more than common savageness.

4 Journal of a Voyage chrouah the-

one, or the channel, affords by far the best passage, asit.

is without hazard ny any kind, though I believe a shorter

course would be found on the yee of the islands, and
without so many carrying places. That called the Moun- —
tain is three hundred and thirty-five paces in length; from
thence to the next, named the Pelican, there is about a

mile of dangerous rapids. The landing is very steep, and
close to the fall. The length of this car ry inp place! is eight: |

hundred and twenty paces.

The whole of the party were now employed i in takin g the A
baggage and the canoe up the hill. One of the Indian ca-
noés went down the fall, and was dashed to pieces. xs ‘The i

woman who had the management of it, by quitting it in :
time, preserved her life, though she lost the little property .

it contained.

The course from the place we quitted in the morning is
about North-West, and comprehends a distance of fifteen
miles. From hence to the next and last carrying-place, is

about nine miles; in which distance there are three rapids: ~
course North-West by West. The carrying pathis very —
bad, and five hundred and thirty-five paces inlength. Our
canoes being lightened, passed on the outside of the oppo- _

site island, which rendered the carrying of the baggage

very short indeed, being not more than the length of a ca- |

noe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two

canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids on the other —

‘side of the river, which occasioned this place to be called

_ the Portage des Noyés. ‘They were proceeding to the Slave

Lake, in the fall of that year, under the direction of Mr.

- Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from hence six miles, and.

encamped on Point de Roche, at half past five in the af-
ternoon. The men and Indians were very much fatigued ;

but the hunters had provided seven geese, a beaver, on

four ducks.

Saturday 6. We embarked at half past two in the morn- |

ing, and steered North-West by North twenty-one miles,

' North-West by West five miles, West-North-West four q
miles, West six miles, doubled a point North-North-East
one mile, Eastfive miles, North two miles, North-West —

by North one mile and a half, West-North-West three
miles, North-East by East two miles, doubled a pointone |

mile and a half, West by North nine miles, North-West’

by West six miles, North-North-West five miles; here

a) Bie

we landed at six o’clock in the evening, unloaded, and en- a if

North-West Continent of America. 5

camped. Nets were also set ina small adjacent river.
Jehad.an head wind during the greater part of the day,
e weather was become so cold that the Indians were
d to make use of their mittens. Inthis day’s pro-.
gress we killed seven geese and six ducks.
_ Sunday 7. Athalf past three we renewed our voyage,
and proceeded West-North-West one, mile, round an
isl ae one mile, North-West two miles and a half, South
ik three miles; West-South-West one ‘eile: South--
w est by South half a mile, North-West three miles, West-
orth-West three miles and a half, North seven miles and
alf, North-West by North four miles, North two miles
and a ‘half North-West by Northtwo miles. The rain,
which had prevailed for some time, now came on with
such violence, that we were obliged to land and unload, to
prevent the goods and baggage from getting wet ; the wea~
a however, soon cleared up, so that we reloaded the
oe, and got under way. We now continued our course

Jorth. ten miles, West one mile and a half, and North
one mile and a half, when the rain ‘came on again, and ren-
dered it absolutely necessary for us to get on shore for the
night, at about half past three. We had a str ong North-
North-East wind throughout the day, which greatly im-
-peded us; M. Le Roux, however, with his party, passed
: on in search of alanding place more agreeable to them.
The Indians killed a couple of geese, and as many ducks.
P. he rain continued through the remaining part of the day.

Monday 8. The night was very boisterous, and the
rain did not cease till two in the afternoon of this day ;

ut as the wind did not abate of its violence, we were pre-
vented from proceeding till the morrow.

Tuesday Die We embarked at half past two in the morn-
ing, the weather being calm and foggy. Soon after our
two young men joined us, whom we had not seen for two
days ; but during their absence they had killed four beav-
We and ten geese. Afteracourse of one mile North-

est by North, we observed an opening on the right,
which we took for a fork of the river, but it proved to be
alake. We returned and steered South-west by West
one mile and a half, West-South-West one mile anda
half, West one mile, qahien we entered a very small branch
of the river on the East bank ; at the mouth of which I
= informed there had been a carrying place, owing to

are of drift wood, which then filled up the pas-

6 Journal of a Voyage through the.

sage, but has since been carried away. “The course 6f
this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and ih
about ten miles falls into the Slave Lake, where We arrive
ed at nine in the morning, when we found a great change
in the weather, as it was become extremely cold. The
lake was entirely covered with ice, and did not seem, in |
any degree, to have given way, but near the shore. — The
gnats and musquitoes, which were very troublesome during
our passage along the river, did not venture to accompany
us to this colder region. a
‘Fhe banks of the river, both above and below the tapids )
were on both sides eater with the various: kinds of wo d
common to this country ; particularly the Western side;
the land being lower and consisting of a rich, black so oil.
This artificial ground is carried down by the stream, and
rests upon drift wood, so as to be eight or ten feet deep, |
The eastern banks are more elevated, and the soil a ye
low clay, mixed with gravel; so that “the treed are neither
so large or numerous as on the opposite shore. The
ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in depth’
notwithstanding the leaf was at its full growth ; while alot :
the lake there was scarcely any appearance of verdure.
_ The Indians informed me, that, at a very small distance
from either bank of the river, are very extensive plain nS,
frequented by large herds of buffaloes ; whilé the moose
and rein-deer keep in the woods that border on it. The
beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habitations
in the small lakes and rivers, as, in the larger streams :
the ice carries every thing along with it, during the spring
The mud-banks in the river are covered with wild fowl
and we this morning killed two swans, ten geese, and ous
beaver, without suffering the delay of an hour; so that w
might have soon filled the canoe with them, if that hat
been our object. * Pe
From the small river we seared East, along the snside
of a lorg sand-bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened
by a few willows, which stretches on as far as the houses
erected by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux, in 1786." We
often ran aground, as for five successive miles the depth
of the water no where exceeded three féet. There we
found our people, who had arrived early i in the morning,
and whom we had not seen since the preceding Sunday.
We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our tents, as
there was every appearance that we should be obliged: to

North-West Continent of America. e

here for some time. I then ordered the nets to
, as it was absolutely necessary that the stores pro-
for our future voyage should remain untouched.
h we now caught were carp, poisson *inconnu, white
nd trout.

esday 10. Itrained during the greatest part of the
ing night, and the weather did not clear up till the
on of this day. This circumstance had very much
pres the CE y st I sent two ot the Indians on an hunt-

PA eA

| - on wea ga afternoon. |

e Ty hursday 11. The weather was fine and Sree § a
0} s westerly wind. The women were employed in gather-

berries of different sorts, of which there are agreat plen-

and T accompanied one of my people toasmuall adjacent.
d, where we picked up some dozens of swan, geese,

GBR SBR we also killed a couple of ducks and a.

the evening the Indians returned, without having
. any of the larger animals. A swan ‘and a grey crane
2 the. only fruits of their expedition. We caught no
r fish but a small quantity of pike, which is too com-
n to be a favourite food with the people of the country.
The ice moved a little to the eastward.
i & ‘riday 12. The weather continued the same as Babich
ay, and the musquitoes began to visit us in great num-
srs. The ice moved again in the same direction, and I
asc ended an hill, but could not perceive that it was broken
in the. middle Dighe lake. The hunters killed a goose and
three ducks.
_ Saturday 13. The weather was cloudy, and the wind
changeable till about sun-set, when it settled in the north.
It drove back the ice which was now very much broken
along the shore, and covered our nets. One of the hunters
who had been at the Slave River the preceding evening,
ret rned with three beavers and fourteen geese. He was
acc ompanied by three families of Indians, who left Atha-
bas ee same day as myself: they did not bring me any
owl ; and they pleaded in excuse, that they had travelled,
with so much expedition, as to prevent them from procur-
g 5 sufficient provisions for themselves.’ By a meridian

send <

* Fish that were unknown.

8 “fournal of a Voyage through the

line, I found the variation of the compass ‘to ‘be a 0
twenty degrees east. ;

Sunday 44. The weather was clear and the wind} 7
— in the same quarter. The ice was much brok Be q

5 im "

oi a violent sat of wind from the southward, as ie 4 a
became ona sudden, in that quarter, of a very dusky blu
colour, and the lightning was very frequent. But. inste:
of wind there came on a very heavy rain, which A
to diminish the quantity of broken ice.
Monday 15. Inthe morning, the bay still continued to
be so full of ice, that we could not get at our nets. About
noon, the wind veered to the Westward, and not only ut un=
covered the nets, but cleared a passage to the op osite
islands. When we raised the nets we found them very
much pag ie and but few fish taken. — We now strt

verse, rhc was a6 eight miles North- East by Nor th:
in about two hours. At half past eleven P. M. we landed
ona small island, and proceeded to gum the canoe. At
this time the atmosphere was sufficiently clear to admit of
reading or writing without the aid of artificial light. "W
had not seen a star since the second day after we left Atha
basca. About twelve o’clock, the moon made its appear=
ance above the tops of the trees, the lower horn. being i in a
state of eclipse, which continued for about Six minutes, | in
a cloudless sky.
I took soundings three times in the course Be the traversey
when I found six fathoms water, with a muddy bottom.
Tuesday 16. We were prevented from embarking t thi!
morning by a very strong wind from the North, and the
vast quantity of floating ice. Some trout were cau ght witl
the hook and line, but the net was not sosuccessful. I had
an observation whith: gave 61.28. North latitude.
‘The wind becoming moderate, we embarked about ‘one,
taking a North-West course, through islands, of ten mi
in which we took in aconsiderable quantity of water.
ter making several traverses, we landed. at ae P. M.

immediately set. During the course of the get there wa
occasional thunder. :

A é ]

North-West Continent of America. “9

_. Wednesday17. We proceeded, and taking up our nets as
ve passed, we found no more than seventeen fish, and were
topped within a mile by the ice. The kadianss however,
ought us back toa point where our fishery was very suc-
essful. They proceeded also on an hunting party, as
Wwe x as to discover a passage among the islands; but at
ree in the afternoon. they returned without having suc-
€ ded i in either object. We were, however, in expecta-
on, that, as the wind blew very strong, it would force a
passage. About sun-set, the weather pecantc mine
“with thunder, lightning, andbvain.

ae - Thursday 18. The nets were taken up at four this
“taorning with abundance of fish, and we steered North-
West four miles, where the ice again prevented our pro-
sress. A South-East wind drove it among the islands, in
such a manner as to impede our passage, and we could
perceive. at some distance a-head, that it was but little
pre: We now set our nets in fous fathoni water. ‘wo
of our hunters had killed a rein-deer and its fawn. sid
had met with two Indian families, and in the evening, a

an belonging to one of them, paid usa visit: he inform-
ed: me, that the ice had not stirred on the side of the island
‘opposite tous. ‘These people live entirely on fish, and
‘were waiting to cross the lake 2 as soon as it should be clear
of i ice. _ |

_ Friday 19. This morning our nets were unproductive,
‘as they yielded us no more than six fish, which were of a
_very bad kind. In the forenoon, the Indians proceeded
to the large island opposite to us, in search of game. The
weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable: at the same
time, we were pestered by musquitoes, though, in a great
| Measure, surrounded with ice.

Saturday 20. We took up our nets, but without any
fish. ‘It rained very hard during the night and this morn-
ins -nevertheless, M. Le Roux and his people went
7 ak to the point which we had quitted on the 18th, but I
| did not think it prudent to move. As I was watching for
| a) fester through the ice, I promised to send for them
| when I could obtain it. It rained at intervals till about
; five o’clock ; when we loaded our canoe, and steered for

the large deland; West six miles. When we came to the

po ad gro we found a great quantity of ice; we, however,

| se nets, and soon caught plenty of fish. In our way

ther we met our hunters, but they had taken nothing.
B

=

as u ournal of a Voyage through the
I took soundings at an hundred yards from the ind,

when we were in twenty-one fathom water. Here we
found abundance of cranberries and small spring onions. —
I now dispatched two men for M. Le sate and his peat, %
ple. aM hy

Sunday 21. A Southerly wind blew icmeilh dhe: ninhied
and drove the ice to the Northward. The two men whom > eT
Thad sent to M. Le Roux, returned at eight this morning; i.
they parted with him ata small distance from us, but the —
wind blew so hard, that he was obliged to put to shore.
Having a glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by my —
watch, I found the latitude 61. 34. North latitude. At
two in the aiternoon, M. Le Roux, and his people arriv-_
ed. At five, the ice being aliioae all driven past to the
Northward, we accordingly embarked, and steered West
fifteen miles, through much broken ice, and on the out-—
side of the islands, though it appeared to be very: solid to
the North-East.. I sounded three times in this distance,
‘and found it seventy-five, forty-four, and sixty fathom
water. We pitched our tents on one ofa cluster of small
islands that were within three miles of the main lands
which we could not reach in consequence of the ices.

We saw some rein-deer on one of the islands, and our
hunters went in pursuit of them, when they killed five
large and two small ones, which was easily accomplished,
as the animals had no shelter to which they could run for
protection. They had, without doubt, crossed the ice
to this spot, and the thaw coming on had detained them
there, and made them an easy prey to the pursuer. This
island was accordingly named Isle de Carrebeeuf. 4

I sat up the whole of this night to observe the scttengl
and rising of the sun. ‘That on was beneath the horizon;
four hours twenty-two minutes, and rose North 20 East
by ian dala It however, froze so hard, that during the

sun’s disappearance the water was. éovered with.s ice ale a
quarter of an inch thick. | A

Monday 22. We emnbanle a at half past fate in the
morning, and rounding the outside of the islands, steered
North-West thirteen miles along the ice, edging 1m for the
main land, the wind West, then West two miles; but.
blew so hard as to oblige us to land on an island at hi
past nine, from whence we could just distinguish land to
the South-East, at the distance of about twelve leagues 5
apeugh we could not determine, whether it was a cai ;

tye

North-West Continent of America. .

we a funehge or the shores of the lake.* I fpck

S M. Te Bose’ S ae fe oe deh two
30 de thears to be left in the island against their re-
1; it was called Jsle a la Cache. 3

wind being moderated, we proceeded again at half
» in the afternoon, a steering West by North
ng the islands, made a course of eighteen miles. We
camped at eight o’clock on a smallisland, and since eight
cei pee tig not ‘exe om ree ait ie the wea-

¢

ac MF ri P
netimes the oe ious, sO thes there may be a great deception
ance: and I think this was the case at present.

5

ied in the sun, and afterwards pounded for the convenience

12 Fournal of a Voyage through the . :
; ot)

CHAPTER EL): 0rknsqecal

pds ;

Landed at some lodges of Red-Knife Indians: ‘procure one
them to assist in navigating the bays. Conference wns
the Indians. Take leave of M. Le Roux, and continue
thevoyage. Different appearances of the land; its veget>
able produce. Visit an island where the wood had been
felled. Further description of the Coast. Plenty of rein
and moose-deer, and white partridges. Enter avery deep
bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blowing weather. Con=
tinue to coast the bay. Arrive at the mouth of a river.
Great numbers of fish and wild-fowl. Description of the,
land on either side. Curious appearance of woods that
had been burned. Comein sight of the Horn Mountain.
Continue to kill geese and swans, &c. Violent storm.

a

June, 1789. ee
Tuesday 23. } Towarns morning, the Indians who had not

been able to keep up with us the preceding day, now join- |
ed us, and brought two swans anda goose. Athalf past
three we re-embarked, and steering West by North amile
and an half, witha Northerly wind, we came to the foot
of atraverse across a deep bay, West five miles, which
receives a considerable river at the bottom of it; the dis-
tance about twelve miles. The North-West a of the |
bay was covered with many small islands that were sur-
rounded with ice; but the wind driving it a little off the
land, we had a plese passage on the inside of them. We
steeved South-West nine’ miles under sail, then North.
West, nearly, through the islands , forming a course of SiX= i
teen miles. We landed on the main land at half past walk
in the afternoon at three lodges of Red-Knife Indians, so
called from their copper knives. They informed us, tha
there were many more lodges of their friends at no great
distance ; and one of the Indians set off to fetch them a
they also said, that we should see no more of them at pres
sent; as the Shave and Beaver Indians, as well as others —
of the tribe, would not be here till the time that the swans —
cast their feathers. In the afternoon it rained a torrent. _
Wednesday 24. M. Le Roux purchased of these Inve
cians upwards of eight packs of good beaver and marti
skins; and there were not above twelve of them qualified

Ke i
Vi

North-West Continent of America. 13

to ti beaver. The English chicf got upwards of an hun-
ed skins on the score of debts due to him, of which he
a 1 many outstanding in this country. Forty of them he
ve on account of debts due by him since.the winters~of
86 and 1787, atthe Slave Lake; the rest he exchanged
rum and other necessary articles; and [ added a
1 quantity of that liquor as an encouraging present to
nand his youngmen. I had several consultations with
“these Copper Indian people, but could obtain no infor.
“mation that was material to our expedition ; ; nor were
co acquainted with any part of the river, which was the
q ect of my research, but the mouth of it. In order to
eave as much time as possible in circumnavigating the
bays, I engaged one of the Indians to conduct us; and i
-accordingly equipped him with various articles of clothing,
“&c. Lalso purchased a large new canoe, that he might
embark with the two young Tdliaaiss in my service.
This day, at noon, I took an observation, which gave
»me 62. 24. North latitude; the variation of the compass
“being about twenty-six or twenty-seven degrees to me
ast. 3
. In the afternoon I assembled the Indians, in order to
inform them that I should take my departure on the follow-
Jing day; but that people would remain on the spot till
their countrymen, whom they had mentioned, should ar-
rive ; ; and that, if they brought a sufficient ‘quantity of
skins: to make it answer, the Canadians would return for
“more goods, with a view to winter here, and build a fort,*
which would be continued as long as they should be found
“to deserve it. They assured me, that it wouldbe a great
. “encouragement to them to have a settlement of ours in
© their country ; and that they should exert themselves to
‘the utmost to kill beaver, as they would then be certain of
“getting an adequate value for them. Hitherto, they said,
“the Chepewyans always pillaged them ; or, at most, gave
‘little or nothing for the fruits of their labour, which had —
greatly discouraged them; and that, in consequence of
‘this treatment, they had no motive to pursue the beaver,
_ but to obtain a sufficient quantity of food and raiment.
_ © Tnow wrote to Messrs. Macleod and Mackenzie, and —
addressed my papers to the former, at Athabasca.
Thursday 25. We left this place at three this morning,
| our canoe being deeply laden, as we had embarked some

i

Pe
‘add Fort, is the name given to any establishment in this country.

14. ' Fournal ofa Voyage through the |

packages that had come in the canoes of M. Le Roux,
We were saluted on our departure with some vollies
small arms, which we returned, and steered South by W.
straight across \the bay, which is here no more than Y
miles and a half broad, but, from the accounts of the r
tives, it is fifteen leagues i in depth, with a much greater
breadth in several parts, and full of islands. I sounded
the course of the traverse and found six fathoms with ‘
sandy bottom. Here, the land has a very diffefent appear
ance from that on which we have been since we entered thi
lake. Till we arrived here there was one continued view
of high hills and islands of solid rock, whose surface was
occasionally enlivened with moss, shinbe: and a few scat
tered trees, of a very stinted growth from an insufficiency
of soil to nourish them. But, notwithstanding their bar-
ren appearance, almost every part of them produces berries
of various kinds, such as cranberries, juniper-berries,
raspberries, partridge-berries, gooseberries, and the path.
agomenan, which is something like a raspberry ; it grows
on a small stalk about a foot and a half high, in wet, mossy
spots. These fruits are in great abundance, ‘though they
are not to be found in the same places, but in situations
and aspects suited to their peculiar natures. |

The land which borders the lake in this part is Lakin o )
sandy, but is well covered with wood, composed of trees
of alarger growth: it gradually rises from the shore, and

the coast, thick with wood and a rocky summit i
above it.

some ee Cie reached an island, where we Laneiedl at seve in
I immediately proceeded to the ‘further part of it, in order
to discover if there was any probability of our being able
to get from thence in the course of the day. It is about
five miles in circumference,’ and I was very much surpri a
ed to find that the greater part of the wood with which it
was formerly covered, had been cut down within twelve
or fifteen years, and that the remaining stumps were be-
come altogether rotten. On making inquiry concerning
the cause of this extraordinary circumstance, the En:
Chief informed me, that several winters ago, many of t
Slave Indians inhabited the islands that were scatt Y
over the bay, as the surrounding waters abound with f fis)

North-West Continent of America. 15
: roughout the year, but that they had been driven away
yy the Knistenaux, who continually made war upon them.
an establishment is to be made in this country, it must
n the neighbourhood of this place on account of ‘the
od and the fishery.
_ At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the wind had
ren the greatest part of the ice past the island, though
ve still had to encounter some broken ae of it, which

4 a point. to point across five bays, twenty-one miles,
We took soundings several times, and found from six to
ten fathom water. I observed that the country gradually
ee lescended inland, and was still better covered with wood
han in the higher parts. Wherever we approached the

land, we perceived deserted lodges. ‘The hunters killed
ty Ewan: and a beaver; and at length we landed at eight

‘oe: clock in the evening, when we unloaded and gummed
“our, canoe.
Set riday 26. We continued our route at five o’clock,
steering South-East for ten miles across two deep bays:
then South-South-East, with islands in sight to the East-
ward. We then traversed another bay ina course of three
miles, then South one mile to a point which we named the
Detour, and South-South-West four miles and an half,
_when there was an keavy swell off the lake. Here I took
“an observation, when we were in 61. 40. North latitude.
Ve then proceeded South-West four miles, and West-
outh-West among islands: on one of which our Indians
a killed two rein-deer, but we lost three hours aft wind in
oing for them: this course wasnine miles. Aboutseven
Ginthe evening we were obliged to land for the night, as the
‘ and became too strong from the South-East. We
thought we could observe land in this direction when the
wind was coming on from some distance. On the other
_ side of the Detour, the land is low, and the shore is flat and
dangerous, there being no safe place to land in bad wea-
her, except in the islands which we had just passed.
there seemed to be plenty of moose and rein-deer in this
untry, as we saw their tracks wherever we landed.
here were also great numbers of white partridges, which
ar t this season of a grey colour, like that of the moor-
fowl. | _ There was some floating ice in the lake, and the
Ine dans s Killed a couple of swans.

ie

bs

_ of steering South thirteen miles, and passed several sma

_ fire, as there was no good ground for an encampment

16 : Journal ofa Voyage through the’

Satur day 27. ‘At three this morning we were’ im, the
canoe, after having passed a very restless night from. the 4
persecution of the musquitoes: The weather was fine a and
calm, and our course West-South-West nine miles, whe: bh
we came to the foot of a traverse, the opposite point ee
sight bearmg South-West, distance twelve miles. th
bay is at least eight miles aces. and this course two. mile S
more, in all ten miles. It now became very foggy, and
as the bays were so x EES CHS we landed for two hours,
when ie weather cleared up; and we took the advantage —

wey
ty

bays, when we came to the point of a very deep one,
whose extremity was not discernible; the land bearing —
South from us, at the distance of about ten miles. Our — "
guide notsdaving been here for eight winters, was at aloss —
what course to take, though as well as he could irecollocty i
this bay appeared to be the entrance of the river. Accord-
ingly, we steered down it, about West-South-West, tik
we were involved in a field oF brokenice. We still Coulee a
not discover the bottom of the bay, and a fog coming ony
made it very difficult for us to get to an island to the South- _
West, and it was nearly dark when we effected a landing. ie
Sunday 28. At aquarter past three we were again om — a
the water, and as we could perceive no current setting into —
this bay, we made the best of our way to the point that
bore South from us yesterday afternoons We continued _
our course South three miles more, South by West seven —

| miles, West fifteen miles, when, by observation, we were

in 61 degrees North latitude; we then proceeded West-
North-West two miles’, Here we canie (oats tae of a
traverse, the opposite land bearing South-West, distance _
fourteen miles, when we steered into a deep bay; about a
Westerly course; and though we had no land a-head i Be
sight, we indulged the hope of finding a passage, which
according to the Indian, would conduct us to the eee ‘
oi the river. pe
Having a strong wind aft, we lost sight of the Indie
nor could we put on shore to wait for them, without riskin
material damage to the canoe, till we ran to the bottom
the bay, and were forced among the rushes ;_ when we d
covered that there was no passage there. In about twoa
three hours they joined us, but would not approach 0

they emptied their canoe of the water which it had taken a

b

North-West Continent of America. é 17

in, and continued their route, but did not encamp till sun-
‘set. The English chief was very much irritated against
the Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder
him, for having undertaken to guide us inacourse of which

he was ignorant ; nor had we any reason to be satisfied
ih vith him, though he -still continued to encourage us, by

d claring that he recollected having passed from the river,

: through the woods, tothe place where he had landed. In

‘the blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to make use

: of our large kettle, to keep our canoe from filling, although |

we did not carry above three feet sail. The Indians very

| narrowly escaped.

Monday 29. We embarked at four this morning, and
‘steered along the South-West side of the bay. At half
past five we reached the extremity of the point, which’we
doubled, and found it to be the branch or passage that was
the object of our search, and occasioned by a very long
island, which separates it from the main channel of the
river. Itis about halfa mile across, and not more than six
feet in depth; the water appeared to abound in fish, and.

was covered with fowl, such as swans, geese, and several

kinds of ducks, particularly black ducks, that were very
numerous, but we could not get within gun-shot of them. -
The current, though not very strong, set us South-West —

by West, and we followed this course fourteen miles, till
we passed the point of the long island, where the Slave

‘Lake discharges itself, and is ten miles in breadth. There

is not more than fon five to two fathom water, so that

when the lake islow, it may be presumed the greatest part

‘of this channel must be dry. The river now turns to the
Westward, becoming gradually narrower for twenty-four
miles, till it is not more than half a mile wide; the cur-
rent, however, is then much stronger, and the soundings
were three fathoms anda half. The land on the North

shore from the lake is low, and covered with trees; that

to the South is much higher, and has also an abundance of

4 ‘wood. ‘The current is véry strong, and the banks are of

’

an equal height on both sides, consisting of a yellow clay,
mixed with small stones; they are covered with large
quantities of burned wood, lying on the ground, and young
poplar: trees, that have sprung Up since the fire that destroy-
ed the larger wood. Itisa very curious and extraordinary
‘circumstance, that land covered with spruce-pine, and
White birch, when laid waste by fire, Oe subsequently
¢

A

is. Fournalofa Voyage through the

produce nothing but poplars, where none of that aperies of
tree were previously to be found.
A stiff breeze from the Eastward drove us on ata great
fate under sail, in the same course, though obliged to wind
‘among islands. We kept the North channel for about ten
“miles, whose current is much stronger than that of the
South ; so that the latter is consequently the better road to
~ come up. Here the river widened, and the wind dying
away, we had recourse to our paddles. We kept our
course to the North-West, onthe North side of the river, -
which is here much wider, and assumes the form of asmall
lake; we could not, however, discover an opening in any
direction, so that we were at a loss what course to take, as"
our Red-Knife Indian had never explored beyond our pre-
sent situation. He at the same time informed us that a
river falls in from the North, which takes its rise in the
Horn Mountain, now in sight, which is the country of the
Beaver Indians ; and that he and his relations frequently
meet on that river. He also added, that there are very
extensive plains on both sides of it, which abound 1 in buf-
faloes and moose-deer.
By keeping this course, we got into shallows, so that we
were forced to steer to the left, till we recovered deep
water, which we followed, till the channel of the river
opened on us to the southwesull ; we now made for the
shore, and encamped soon after stn-set. Our course ought

‘to have been West fifteen miles, since we took to the pad-

dle, the Horn Mountains beating from us North-West,
‘and running North-North-East and South- South-West.
Our soundings, which were frequent during the course of _
the day, were from three to six fathoms water.. The hun-_
ters killed two geese and a swan: it appeared, indeed, that
great numbers. of fowls breed in the islands. which we had
passed. )
Tuesday 30. At four this morning we got hein way,
the weather being fine and calm. Our course was South-
West by South thirty-six miles. On the South side of
the river is aridge of low mountains, running East and
- West by compass. The Indians picked up a white Boose,
which appeared to have been lately shot with an arrow, —
and was quite fresh. We proceeded South-West by South, :
six miles, and then came to a bay on our left, which is full
of small islands, and appeared tobe the entrance of a river

Sets
ee

North-West Continent of America. 42

from the South. Here the ridge of mountains terminates,
' This course was fifteen miles.
At six inthe afternoon there was an appearance of bad
weather ; we landed, therefore, for the night; but before
we could pitch our tents, a violent tempest came on, with
- thunder, lightning, and rain, which, however, soon ceas-
, but not before we had suffered ‘the inconvenience of
“being drenched by it. The Indians were very much fa-
‘tigued, having been employed in running after wild fowl,
which had lately cast their feathers ; they, however, caught
“five swans, and the same number of geese. I sounded
‘several times in the course of the day, — found from
four to six fathoms water. |

I hae | LLL LL LDL -

20. Sournal of a Voyage through the

i
F oes 4 Tas r
eA Se 4 :

CHAPTER cit lo 2.) gues a a.
Continue our course. The river narrows. — Lost the oll
Passed asmall river. Violent rain. Land on a small
island. Expect to arrive at the rapids. Conceal two
bags of pemican in an island, A view of mountains. —
Pass several encampments of the natives. Arrive among
the islands. Ascendan high hill. Violence of the cure, |
rent. Ice seen along the banks of the river. Land at a
village of the natives. Thetr conduct and appearances
Their fabulous stories. The English Chief and Indians —
discontented. Obtaina new guide. Singular custams of
the natives. An account of their dances. Description of
their persons, dress, ornaments, buildings, arms for war
and hunting, canoes, &c. Passed on among islands.
Encamped beneath an hill, and prevented from ascending
by the musquitoes: Landed at an encampment. Conduct
of the inhabitants. They abound in fabulous accounts of
dangers. Land at other encampments. Procure plenty
of hares and partr LdgeS. Our guide anxious to return.
Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare Indians, Gee
Exchange our ane State of the weather. #

‘ |

uLY, 1789. |
ae tAr half past four in the mornin g we continueds

our voyage, and in ashort time found the river narrowed —
to about halfa mile. Our course was Westerly among
islands, with a strong current. Though the land is high
on both sides, the banks are not perpendicular. This course
was twenty-one miles; and on sounding we found nine
fathoms water. We then proceeded West-North- -West
nine miles, and passed a river upon the South-East side; 5
we sounded, and found twelve fathoms; and then we
went North- West by West three miles. Here i lost my
lead, which had fastened at the bottom, with part of the”
line, the current running so strong that we could not clear
it with eight paddles, and the strength of the line, which
was equal to four paddles. Continued North by West
five miles, and saw an high mountain, bearing South from
us; we then proceeded North-West by North four miles.
We now passed a small river on the North side, then
doubled a point to West-South-West. At one o’clock

Mi

wi

North-West Continent of America. 21

there came on lightning and thunder, with wind and rain,
which ceased in about half an hour, and left us almost
deluged with wet, as we didnot land. ‘There were great
“quantities of ice along the banks of the river.

We landed upon a small island, where there were the
| Pecies of four lodges standing, which we concluded to have.
belonged to the Knistineaux, on their war excursions, six
or seven years ago. ‘This course was fifteen miles West,

‘to where the river of the Mountain falls in from the South-

‘ward. It appears to be a very large river, whose mouth
is half a mile broad. About six miles further a smaii river
4 flows i in the same direction; and our whole course was
‘twenty-four miles. We landed opposite to an island, the
Mountains to the Southward being in oe As our canoe ©
was deeply laden, and being also in daily expectation of
coming to the rapids or fail, "which we had been taught to
consider with apprehension, we concealed two bags of -

Pemican in the opposite island, in the hope that they would

ye of future service to us. The Indians were of a differ-

“ent opinion, as they entertained no expectation of return-

ing. that season, when the hidden provisions would be

spoiled. Near us were two Indian encampments of the

last year. By the manner in which these people cut their .

‘wood, ‘it appears that they have no iron tools. The cur-

a2 rent was very strong during the whole of this day’s vovage ;
and in the article of provisions two swans were all that the .
= were able to procure. ,
Thursday 2. The morning was very foggy ; but at half
past five we embarked ; it cleared up, however, at seven, ..

when we discovered that the water, from being very lim-

pid and clear, was become dark and muddy. ‘This alter-
ation must have proceeded from the influx of some river
to the Southward, but where these streams first blended
their waters the for had prevented us from observing. At

ine we perceived a very high mountain a-head, which ap-

peared, on our nearer approach, to be rather a cluster of -

mountains, stretching as far as our view could reach to the
Southward, and whose tops were lost in the clouds. At
noon there was lightning, thunder, and rain, and at one,
we came abreast of the mountains: their summits appear-
ed to be barren and rocky, but their declivities were cover-
. ed with wood: they appeared also to be sprinkled with
, rhite stones, which glistened in the sun, and were called
y the Indians manetoe aseniah, or spirit: stones. I sus-

a

22 ~¥ournal of a Voyage through the
pected that they were Talc, though they possessed’a more
brilliant whiteness: on our return, however, these appear=
ances were dissolved, as they were nothmg more than
patches of snow. nee iy
~ Our course had been West-South-West thirty miles,
and we proceeded with great caution, as we continually
expected to approach some great rapid or fall, This was
such a prevalent idea, that all of us were occasionally per=
‘suaded that we heard those sounds which betokened @
fall of water. Our course changed to West by North,
along the mountains, twelve miles, North by West twen-
ty-one miles, and at eight o’clock in the evening we went
on shore for the night on the North side of the river. We
saw several encampments of the natives, some of whic
had been erected in the present spring, and others at some
former period. The hunters only killed one swan and a
beaver: the latter was the first of its kind which we had
seen in this river. The Indians complained of the perse-
‘verance with which we pushed forward, and that they were
frot accustomed to such severe fatigue as it occasioned. _
Friday 3. The rain’was continual through the night,
and did not subside till seven this morning, when'we oe
barked and steered North-North-West for twelve miles,
the river being inclosed by high mountains on either side.
We had a strong head-wind, and the rain was so violent
zs to compel us to land at ten o’clock. According to mi
reckoning, since my last observation, we had run two
hundred and seventeen miles West, and forty-four miles —
North. Ata quarter past two the rain subsided, and we
got again under way, our former course continuing for
five miles. Here a river fell in from the North, and ina
short time the current became strong and rapid, running
with great rapidity among rocky islands, which were thé
first that we had seen in this river, and indicated our near
approach to rapids and falls. Our present course was
North-West by North ten miles, North-West three miles.
West-North-West twelve miles, and North-West three
miles, when we encamped at eight in the evening, at the
foot of an high hill, on the north shore, which in some
‘parts rose perpendicular from the river. I immediately
ascended it, accompanied by two men and some Indians,
and in about an hour and an half, with very hard walking,
we gained the summit, when I was very much surprised
Ao find it crowned by an encampment. The Indians me>

5

4

North-West Continent of America. / <=

formed me, that it is the custom of the people who have
n0 arms to choose these elevated spots for the places of »
their residence, as they can render them inaccessible to
their enemies, particularly the Knisteneaux, of whom
they z are in continual dread. ‘The prospect from this height
‘was not so extensive as we expected, as it was terminated
y acircular range of hills, of the same elevation as that —
on which we stood. The intervals between the hills were
covered Bh small lakes, which were mhabited by Brees
‘numbers of swans. We saw notrees but the pine and the
ee which were small in size and few in number.
_ We were obliged to shorten our stay here, from the
swarms of musquitoes which attacked us on all sides, and
vere, indeed, the only inhabitants of the place. We saw
everal encampments of the natives in the course of the
Q y,. but none of them were of this year’s establishment.
Since four in the afternoon the current had been so strong
that it was, at length, in an actual ebuillition, and produced
an hissing noise like a kettle of water in a moderate state
oO f of boiling. The weather was now become extremely cold,
ich was the more sensibly felt, as it had been very sultry
some time before and since we had been in the river.
__ Saturday 4, At five in the morning the wind and wéa-
_ ther having undergone no alteration from yesterday, we
F ‘oceeded North-West by West twenty-two miles, North- -
proce six miles, North- West by North four miles, and
West-North-West five miles: we then passed the mouth
ofa small river from the North, and after doubling a point,
South-West one mile, we passed the influx of another
river from the South. We then continued our course North-
Yorth-West, with a mountain a-head, fifteen miles, when
the opening of two rivers appeared opposite to each other :
we then proceeded West four miles, and North-West
thirteen miles. At eight in the evening, we encamp-
donanisland. ‘The current was as strong through the
whole of this day as it had been the preceding after-
noon; nevertheless, a quantity of ice appeared along the
anks of the river. The hunters killed a beaver anda
o0se, the former of which sunk before they could get to.
him : beavers, otters, bears, &c. if shot dead at once, re-
main like a bladder, but if there remains enough of. life.
for them to struggle, they soon fill with water, and go te
“the bottom.

wake

~~

‘tion. We acquired a more effectual influence over them

a)

24 Br Journal of a Voyage through the

Sunday 5. Thesun set last night at fifty-three iene
past nine, by my watch, androse at seven minutes befor
two this morning: we embarked soon alter, steering North
North-West, through islands for five miles, and West —
Sirmiles.” The river then increased in breadth, ahd
the current began to slacken in a small degree ; after the
continuation of our course, we perceived a ridge of high |
mountains before us, covered with snow, West-South- —
West ten miles, and at three-quarters past seven 0 ’clock,
we saw several smokes on the North shore, which we
made ‘every exertion to approach.. As we drew nearer, —
we discovered the natives running about in great apparent
‘coniusion; some were making to the woods, and others |
hurrying to their canoes. Our hunters landed before Us,

‘and addressed the few that had not escaped, in the Chepe-—

wyan language, which, so great was their confusion and
terror, they did not appear tounderstand. But when th hey
perceived that it-was impossible to avoid us, as we were
all landed, they made us signs to keep ata distance, with
which we Contoned: and not only unloaded our canoe, but
pitched our tents, before we made any attempt to approastay

them. During this interval, the English chief and his

‘young men were employed in "reconciling them to our atrie

-val: and when they had recovered from their alarm, of

hostile intention, it appeared that some of them perfectly
comprehended the language of our Indians; so that they
were at length persuaded, though not without evident signs
of reluctance and apprehension, to come to us. Their
reception, however, soon dissipated their fears, diudd ‘they
hastened-to call their fugitive companions from their hid 2
ing places. ae

There were five raaninae consisting of tirdrtup -five or
thirty persons, and of two diiferent tribes, the Slave and.
‘Dog-r ib Indians. We made them smake, though it was
evident they did not know the use of tobacco ; we likewise

supplied them with grog; but I am disposed to think, that.
they accepted our civilities rather from fear than’ iticlimas:

by the distribution of knives, beads, awls, rings, gartering,
fire-steels, flints, and hatchets ; so that they became more
familiar even than we expected, for we could not keep them | |
out of our.tents: though I did not observe that oT ate
tempted to purloin any thing. die —

a

North-West Continent of America. 25

e information which they gave respecting the river,
much of the fabulous, that I shall not detail it: it
sufficient just to mention their attempts to persuade
it would require several winters to get to the sea,
d that old age would come upon us before the period of
r return: we were also to encounter monsters of such
| shapes and destructive powers as could only exist
ir wild imaginations. They added, besides, that
were two impassable falls in the river, the first of
was about thirty days march from us. — |
_ Though I placed no faith in these strange relations, they
_had a very different effect upon our Indians, who were al-
sady tired ofthe voyage. It was their opinion and anxious
hh, that we should not hesitate to return. They said
t, according to the information which they had receiv-
there were very few animals in the country beyond us,
iat as we proceeded, the scarcity would increase, and
ould absolutely perish from hunger, if no accident
us. It was withno small trouble that they were con-
of the folly of these reasonings ; and, by my desire,
iced one of those Indians to accompany us, in
cor tion of a small kettle, an axe, a knife, and some
ther articles. BC %
Though it was now three o’clock in the afternoon, the
anoe was ordered to be re-loaded, and as we were ready to
mbark our new recruit was desired to prepare himself for
departure, which he would have declined ;. but as none
his friends would take his place, we may be said, after
delay of an hour, to have compelled him to embark.
to his departure a ceremony took place, of which
ould not learn the meaning: he cut off a lock of his
, and having divided it into three parts, he fastened one
|to the hair on the upper part of his wife’s head,
ring on it three times with the utmost violence in his
ower, and uttering certain words. The other two he
tened with the same formalities, on the heads of his two
en. Pesto :. ged: :
uring our short stay with these people, they amused
ith dancing, which they accompanied with their voices ;
either their song or their dance possessed much va-
The men and women formed a promiscuous ring.
1e former have a bone-dagger or piece of stick between
fingers of the right-hand, which they keep extended
ove the head, in continual motion: the left they seldom
D

‘S

26 Yournal of a Voyage through thé

raise’so high, but work it backwards and forwards in’an
horizontal direction ; ; while they leap. about and .throw |
themselves into various antic postures, to the measure of
their music, always bringing their heels close to each other _ +
at every pause. ‘Lhe men occasionally howl, in imitation —
of some animal, and he who continues this violent exercise —
for the longest period, appears to be considered as the best _
performer. The women stiffer their arms to hang.as with- —
out the power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, ill- —
made people, particularly about the legs, which are very
clumsy and covered with scabs. ‘The latter. circumstance
proceeds, probably, from their habitually roasting’, them a
before the fire. Many of them appeared to be ina very |
unhealthy state, which is owing, as I imagine, to their na-_

tural filthiness. They are of a moderate stature, and. a8
far as could be discovered, through the coat. of. dirt and
grease that covers them, are of a fairer complexion than
the generality of Indians who are the natives. of ene
climates.

Some of them have their hair of a great Junietlas hie
others suffer a long tress to fall behind, and the rest is cut
so short as to expose their ears, but no other. attention —
whatever is paid to it. The beards of some of the old men —
were long, and the rest had them pulled out by the roots, so
that not an hair could be seen on their chins.. The men —
have two double lines, either black or blue, tattooed upon —
each cheek, from the ear tothe nose. ‘The gristle of the
latter is perforated soas toadmit a soose-quill or a. small
piece of wood to be passed through the orifice. T heir
clothing is made of the dressed skins of the rein or moose~ —

-deer, though more commonly of the former, These theyl i
prepare in the hair for winter, and make shirts of both,
which reach to the middle of their thighs, Some of thems
are decorated with an embroidery of very neat workman ©
ship with porcupine quills and the hair of the moose, co-
loured red, black, yellow, and white. ‘Their upper gars
ments are sufficiently large to cover the whole body, witha —
fringe round the bottem, and are used both sleeping anc
awake. Their legginee come half way up the ths :

ae mae ee

ancle, and upon every seam. abe dress ai the women, is.
the same as that of the men. The former have no covering
on their private parts, except a tassel of leather which
dangles from a small cord, as it appears, to keep off the

North-West Continent af America. 57

ais, bat the ne gi wa it was since | among
$e sig I saw.

pind? wrists, comin e: wood, horn, or ann rt
arters, and a kind of band to go ound the head, com-
gsed of strips of leather of one inch and an half ‘broad,
ibroidered with porcupine quills, and stuck round with
the claws of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are sus-
vended a few short thongs of the skin of an animal that res
embles the ermine, in'the form of atassel.. Their cinc-
ures and garters are formed of porcupine quills woven
th sinews, in a style of peculiar skill and neatness: they
ve others of different materials, and: more ordinary
_ workmanship; and to both they attach a long fringe of
ica leather, worked round with hair of various CO.
. Their mittens are also suspended from the neck in
‘a position convenient for the reception of the hands. '
‘ rhein ‘lodges are of a very simple structure: a few poles
‘Supported by a fork, and forming asemicircle atthe bot-
‘tom, with some branches or a piece of bark as a covering,
constitutes thewhole of their native architecture. They
paula: two of these huts facing each other, and make the
fire between them. The furniture harmonises with the
_ Buildings: they have a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn;
_ the vessels m which they cook their victuals) are in the
‘ “shape of a gourd, narrow at the top and wide at the bot-
‘tom, and of watape*, fabricated in such a manner as to
_hold-water, which is made to boil by putting a succession
_ of red-hot stones into it. These vessels contain from twa
to six gallons. They have a number of small leather bags
to hold their embroidered work, lines, and nets. They
_ always keep a large quantity of the fibres of -willow bark,
_ which they work into thread on their thighs. Their nets
are from three to forty fathoms in length, and from thir-
_ teen to thirty-six meshes in depth. The shot, deep ones
4 “they set in the eddy current of rivers, and the long ones
“imthe lakes. They likewise make lines of the sinews of
the rein-deer, and manufacture their hooks from wood,
eee 5 eae
1 eg! | Watape i is the name given to the divided roots of the spruce-fir,
__ which the natives weave into a degree of compactness that renders it

f capable of containing a fluid. The different parts of the bark canoes
“are also sewed together with this kind cf filament.

28 Fournal of a Voyage through the

-_

horn; or bone. Their arms and weapons for. hunting, are. : i

bows and arrows, spears, daggers, and pogamagans, or
clubs.. The bows are about five or six feet in length, and
the strings are of sinews or raw skins. The arrows are
two feet and an half long, including the. barb, which is is
variously formed of bone, horn, flint, iron,-or co:

and are winged with three feathers. T he pole of the speare.
is about six feet in length, and pointed with a barbed bone —
of teninches. With this weapon they strike the rein-deer
in the water. The daggers are flat and sharp-pointed,
about twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. The >
pogamagon is made of the horn of the rein-deer, the
branches being all cut off, except that which forms the ex-
tremity. This instrument is about two feet in length, and. |
is employed to dispatch their enemies in battle, and such —
animals as they catch in snares placed for that purpose.’
These are about three fathom long, and are made of the —
green skin of the rein or moose-deer, but. in such small
strips, that it requires from ten to thirty strands to make
this cord, which is not thicker than a cod-line; and strong”
enough to resist any animal that can be entangled in it,
Snares or nooses are also made of sinews to take lesser
animals, such as hares and white partridges, which are
very numerous. Their axes are manufactured of a piece
of brown or grey stone from six to eight inches long, and
two inches thick. ‘The inside is flat, and the outside
round and tapering to an edge, an inch wide. ‘They are~
fastened by the middle with the flat side inwards to an
handle two feet long, with a cord of green skin. This is”
the tool with which they split their wood, and we believe,
the only one of its kind among them. They kindle fire,
by striking together a piece of white or yellow pyrites and —
a flint stone, over a piece of touchwood. They are uni-
versally provided with a small bag containing these mates —
rials, so that they are in a contmual state of preparation —
to produce fire. From the adjoining tribes, the Red-_
Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in barter for mars
tin skins and a few beaver, small pieces of iron, of which
they manufacture knives, by fixing them at the end of ae
short stick, and with them and the beaver’s teeth, they
finish all their work. They keep them in a sheath hanging
to their neck, which ee contains their awls both of iron —
and horn. iow: Zl

}

“eee

North-West Continent of America. 29

heir'canoes are small, pointed at both ends, flat-bot-
«and covered in the tore part. They are made of
bark of the birch-tree and. fir-wood, but of so slight a
; ction, ‘thatthe man whom one of these light ves-
. sels bears on the water, can, in return, carry it over land
without any difficulty. Itis very seldom that more than
one person embarks in them, nor are they capable of re-
ceiving more than two. The paddles are six feet long,
one half of which is occupied by a blade, of about eight
inches wide. These people informed us, that we had
passed large bodies of Indians who inhabit the mountains
on the East side of the river.
se At four o'clock in the afternoon we eaardved een our
acquaintance promised to remain on the bank of
ppriee till the tfall,.in case we should return. Our course
was V JestsSouth-W est,- -and we soon passed the Great
Dai abe: River, which is of a considerable depth, and
an hundred. yards ‘wide: its»water is clear, and has the
greenish hue of the sea. We had not proceeded more
than six miles when we were obliged to land for the night,
incconsequence of an heavy gust of wind, accompanied
with rain. We encamped beneath a rocky hill, on the
top of which, according to the information of our guide,
it blew a storm every day throughout the year. He found
_ himself very uncomfortable in his new situation, and pre-
tended that he was very ill, in order that he might be per-
mitted to return to his relations: To prevent his escape,
it became necessary to keep a strict watch over him sect
the night. | pies
_ Monday 6. At three o’clock, in a very raw ‘abd soudy
‘morning, we embarked, and steered West-South-West
four miles, _West ra miles, West-North-West five
miles, West eight miles, West by South sixteen miles,
West twenty-seven miles, South-West nine miles, then
West six miles, and encamped at half past seven. We
passed through numerous islands, and had the ridge of
“showy mountains always in sight. Our conductor in-
_ formed us that great numbers of bears, and small white
_ buffaloes, frequent those mountains, which are also in-
_habited by Indians. We encamped in a similar situation
to that of the preceding evening, beneath another high,
rocky hill, which I attempted to ascend, in company with
one of the hunters, but before we had got half way to the
summit, we were almost suffocated by clouds of musqui-

30 ournal of a Voyage through the

toes, and were obliged to return. I observed, however
that the mountains terminated here, and dhava river lo
from the Westward: Taleo diseovered a strong eter
rent, or rapid, which ran close = a steep precipice of -
the hill, st SEE
Tuesday 7. We embarked at ities in the nia
crossed to the opposite side of the river, in consequence
of the rapid; but we might have spared ourselves thi
trouble, as there would have been no danger in contir
ing our course, without any circuitous: deviation whats
ever. This circumstance convinced us of the erroneous ©
account given by the natives of the great and approachin
dangers of our navigation, as this rapid was ‘stated to”
‘one of thém. > Our’ course was iow NOR T i;
three miles, West.North-West four miles, North-West
ten miles, North two miles, when we came to a river that
flowed from the Eastward. Here we landed at an en-
campment of four fires, all the inhabitants of which ran
off with the utmost speed; except an old man and an’ o
woman. Our guide called aloud to the fugitives, and ent,
treated thera to stay, but without effect: the old man,
however, did not hesitate to approach us, and represented
himself as too far advanced in life, and too indifferent
about the short time he had to remain in the world, ‘to be
very anxious about escaping from any danger that threat
ened him; at the same time he pulled his grey hairs fro
his head by handfulls to distribute among us, and implo
eur favour for himself and his relations.. Our gu
however, at length removed his fears, and persuaded hint
to recal the fugitives, who consisted of eighteen peopl
whom I reconciled to me on their return with presents
beeds, knives, awls, &c. with which they appeared to’
greatly delighted. They differed in no respect fromt
whom we ‘had already seen; nor were they deficient
hospitable attentions; they provided us with fish, which
was very wel boiled, and cheerfully accepted by us. Our
guide still sickened after his home, and was so’ anxious”
to return thither, that we were under the —— .
forcing him to embark. "
‘These people informed us that we were dbl to anothe
aa rapid, and that there were several lodges of their’
velations in its vicinity. Four canoes, witha man in each,
_tollowed us, ‘to point out to us the particular channels we

‘shoutd follow for the secure passage of the rapid, They

e

North-West Continent of America. | St

b perio in sr bg stories concerning the Gans

m my our course was North-North- Boss cane
, when the river appeared to be inciosed, as it were,
lofty, perpendicular, white rocks, lacie did not
us a very agreeable elie se We now went on
e in order to examine the rapid, but did not perceive
signs of it, though the Indians still continued to mage
ts dangers ; Sse as they ventured down it, m
small canoes, our apprehensions were, consequently,
moved, and we followed them at some distance, but
d not find. any increase in the rapidity of the current ;
length the Indians informed us that we should find no
rapid but that which was now bearing us along.
river at this place is not above three hundred yards
in breadth, but on sounding I found fifty fathoms water.
“At the two rivulets that offer their tributary streams from
either side, we found six families, consisting of about
thirty-five persons, who gave us an ample quantity of ex-
cellent fish, which were, however, confined to white fish, .
the poisson inconnu, and another of a round form iad
colour, which was about fourteen inches in length.
ified them with a few presents, and continued our
‘woyag age. The men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes.
|. This narrow channel i is three miles long, and its course
North-North-East. We then steered North three miles,
and landed at an encampment of three or more families,
cont -eeting twenty-two persons, which was sttatied on se

he Eaatmnrds We obtained anes and passes
from these people, and presented in return such articles a

gs aus aged them. They very much regretted sae
they had no goods or merchandize to aschonsd with us,
as they had left them at a lake, from whence the river
issued, and in whose vicinity some of their people were
en ap ara in or snares for rein-deer. arse engaged ta

~ was a yauch among them in die capacity of li
whom our Indians understood much better than any of
the natives of this country, whom they had yet seen: he

‘ial shiping to are, us, but took the first PRP OES

32. SFournal of a Voyage through the»

.. We now steered West five miles, when. weagain k anded,
camel found two families, containing seven people, bese toad,
-¥eason to believe that there were others. ‘hiddereiue

woods. Wereccived from them two dozen of hares, and
they were about to boil two more, which they also gave us. |
We were not ungrateful for their kindness, and left them, —
Our course was now North-West four miles, and at nine
we landed and pitched our tents, when one of our people
killed a grey crane. Our conductor renewed his com-
plaints, not, as he assured us, from any apprehension of
our ill-treatment, but of the Esquimaux, whom he repre.
sented as avery wicked and malignant people ; who-
put us all to death. He added, also, that it was but two
summers since a large party af them came up this river, —
and killed many of his relations. ‘Two va gh followed
us from the last lodges. J Ate Tt ie

Wednesday 8. At half past two in the niorning we eme

barked, and steered a Westerly course, and soon after
ashore at two lodges of nine Indians. . We made sheds
few trifling presents, but without disembarking, and had_
proceeded but a small distance from thence, when we ‘obs
served several smokes beneath an hill, on the North shore
and on our approach we perceived the natives climbing th
ascent to gain the woods. The Indians, however, in thé
two small canoes which were a-head of us, having assured.
them of our friendly intentions, they returned to their fires,
and we disembarked. Several-of them wereclad i
skins, but in every other. circumstance they resembied
those whom we had already seen. -We were, howeve ry
informed that they were of a different tribe, called :

Hare Indians, as hares and fish are their principal support,
from the scarcity of rein-deer and beaver, which are the
only animals of the larger kind that frequent _ this part of
the country. They were twenty-five in number ; and
among them was a woman who was afflicted with an abcess
in the belly, and reduced, in consequence, to a mere skes
leton: at the same time several old women were were
and howling around her; but whether these noises were
operate as a charm for her cure, or merely to amuse and
console her, I do not pretend to determine. A. sma
quantity of our usual presents were received by them with
the greatest satisfaction. ee

’ Here we made an exchange of our guide, who al be+

come so troublesome that we were obliged to watch him

fh

North-West Continent of America. 83

night and day, except when he was upon | the water. The —
“man, however, who had ,agreed to go in his place soon
ekepented of his engagement, and endéavoured to persuade
us that some of his relations further down the river, would
_ Feadily accompany us, and were much better acquainted
with theriver than himself. But, as he had informed us ten
minutes before that we should see no more of his tribe, we
paid very little attention to his remonstrances, and com-
a Med him to embark.
eee ‘In about three hours a man overtook us in a small canoe,
and we suspected that his object was to facilitate, in some
4 way or other, the escape of ourconductor. About twelve
we also observed an Indian walking along the North-East
_ shore, when the small canoes paddled towards him. - We
_ accordingly followed, and found three men, three women,
“and two children, who had been on an hunting expedition.
They had some flesh of the rein-deer, which they offered
mee us; ‘but it was so rotten, as well as offensive to the smell,
that we excused ourselves from accepting it: They had
gio phe wonderful stories of danger and terror, as well
4s their countrymen, whom we had. alr eady. seen; and we
_ were now informed, that behind the opposite. island there.
_-was a Manitoe or spirit, in the river, which swallowed
every person that approached it. As it would have em-
ap ployed half a day to have indulged.our. curiosity in pro-
ceeding to examine this phenomenon, we did not deviate
_ from our course, but left these people with the usual pre-
sents, and proceeded on our voyage. Our course and
‘distance this day were West twenty-eight miles, West-
N orth-West twenty-three miles, West-South-West six
miles, West by North five miles, South-West four miles,
and encamped at eight o’clock. A fog prevailed the greater —
part. of the day; with “tate showers of small rain. -
ie aye
mee kh
ee
han EES ie
oe
Meso.
Rar pit:
Maio S

SL LLL L LIS

84 Fournal of a Voyage through the.
' GOVAN Goes “f
CHAP TER IV. eer ay
Suet AE te ergot

The new guide makes i escape. Cama omaha to cupped
his place. Land at an: acadpmea of another eal
Indians. Account of their manners, dress, weapons, Fe, —
Trajfe with them. Description of a beautiful fish. En %
gage another guide. His curious behaviour. . Killa fogs
and. ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribecalle
the Duguthee Dinees, or Quarrellers. Saw flax. growing e
wild. The varying ht acter of the river and its banksy mY
Distant mountans. Perplexity from the numerqus chan=
nels of the river. Determined to proceed. Land where — a
there had been an encampment of the Esquimaux. Saw —
large flocks of wild fowl. View of the sun at midnight. — ;
Description of .a place lately deserted by the Indians. _
Houses of the natives described. frequent showers. Myr
a black JO%-x, Lhe discontenteof our hunters renewed, and
pacified. Face of the country. Land at a spot. lately ing 4 ”
habited. Peculiar circumstances of it. . Arriveat the —
entrance of the lake. Proceed to an island. Same alee ig

of it. ; pert n Hay) ae
y e a

Tee

~

Jury, 1789. :
Ea 2 Taesoen sei rain Sreveaneain oT the ‘

night, and, in the course of it, our guide deserted ; ‘We
therefore compelled another of these people, very ‘much, :
against his will, to’ hati the place of his fugitive coun 7
tryman. We also took away the paddles of one of them,
who remained behind, that he might not follow us on any
scheme of promoting ‘thé escape of his companion, who Fe
was ‘not easily pacified. At length, however, we suc- %
ceeded in the act of conciliation, and at half past three
quitted our station. In a short time we saw a smoke on ©
the East shore, and directed our course towards it. oun
new guide began immediately to call to.the people that
belonged to it ina particular manner, which we did not
comprehend. He informed us that they were not of his |
tribe, but were a very wicked, malignant people, who ,
would beat us cruelly, pull our hair with great violence —
from our heads, and mal-treat us in various other a a
The men waited our arrival, but the women and chi ie |
dren took to the woods. There were but four ir these b

ae
we

‘*

North-West Continent of America. 35

people; and previous to our landing, they all harangued
-*us‘at the same moment, and apparently with violent anger
“and resentment. Our hunters did not understand them,
_ but no sooner had our guide addressed them, than they
“were appeased. [ presented them with beads, awls, &c.
and when the women and children returned from the
woods, they were gratified with similar articles... There
were fifteen of them; and of a more pleasing appearance
than any which we had hitherto seen, as they were healthy,
full of flesh, and clean in their persons. Their language
‘was somewhat different, but I believe chiefly in the accent, |
for they and our guide conversed inteiligibly with each
other; and the English chief clearly comprehended one of
them, though he was not himself understood. |
- Their arms and utensils differ but little from those which
have been described in a former chapter. The-only iron
they have is in small pieces, which serve them for knives.
They obtain this metal from the Esquimaux Indians.
_ Their arrows are made of very light wood, and are winged
only with two feathers: their bows differed from any
_ which we had seen, and we understood that they were fur-
nished by the Esquimaux, who are their neighbours: they
consist of two pieces, with a very strong cord of sinews
along the back, which is tied.in several places, to preserve
' its shape: when this cord becomes wet, it requires a
strong bow-string, and a powerful arm to draw it. The
_ vessel in which they prepare their food, is made of a thin
frame of wood, and of an oblong shape ; the bottom is fixed
_ Ina groove, in the same manner as acask. Their shirts
_ are not cut square at the bottom, but taper to a point, from
the belt downwards as low as the knee, both before and
behind, with a border, embellished with a short fringe.
_ “They use also another fringe, similar to that which has
been already described, with the addition of the stone ofa
grey farimaceous berry, of the size and shape of a large
barley-corn , it is of a brown colour, and fluted, and being
_ bored, is run on each string of the fringe ; with this they
‘decorate their shirts, by sewing it in a semicircle on the
breast and back, and crossing over both shoulders; the
sleeves are wide and short, but the mittens supply their
| deficiency, as they are long enough to reach over a part of
_ the sleeve, and are commodiously suspended by a cord
from the neck. If their leggins were made with waist-
bands, they might, with great propriety, be denominated

rs

36 Fournal of a Voyage through thé

trowsers: they fasten them witha cord round the middle, —
so that they appear to have a sense of decency which their —
neighbours cannot boast.. Their shoes are sewed to:their _
leggins, and decorated on every seam. One of the met
was clad in a shirt made of the skins of the musk-rat. . The
dress of the women is the same as that of the men, except _
in their .shirts, which are longer, and without the finish- _
ing of a fringe on their breasts. Their peculiar mode of
tying the hair is as follows:—-that which grows onthe tem=
ples, or the fore part of the skull, is formed into. two
queues, hanging down before the ears ; that of the scalp —
or crown is fashioned in the same manner to the back of
the neck, and is then tied with the rest of the hair, at —
some distance from the head. . A thin cord is employed —
for these purposes, and very neatly worked with hair, ar-—
tificially coloured. —The women, and, indeed, some of —
the men, let their hair hang loose on their shoulders,
whether it be long or short. Lee rieh
We purchased a couple of very large moose-sking Seti
them, which were very well dressed ; indeed we did not
suppose that there were any of those animals in the coun=
try; and it appears from the accounts of the natives theme
selves, that they are very scarce. As for the beaver, the
existence of such a creature does not seem to be known
by them. Our people bought shirts of them, and. many —
curious articles, &c. They presented us witha most-des
licious fish, which was less than an. herring, and very”
beautifully ‘spotted with black and yellow: its dorsal fin —
reached from the head to the tail; in its expanded state
takes a triangular form, and is variegated with the colours
that enliven the scales: the head is. very small, dnd, ‘nag ‘
mouth is armed with sharp- -pointed teeth. i *
We prevailed. on the native, whose language was. nna :
intelligible, to accompany us. He mformed us that we
should sleep ten nights more before we arrived at the seas.
that several of his relations resided in the immediate vi-
cinity of this part of the river, and that in three nights? °
we should meet with the Esquimaux, with whom they —
had formerly made war, but were now in a state of peace:
and amity. He mentioned the last Indians whom we had_
seen in terms of great derision; describing them as being®
no better than old women, and as abominable liars;*
- which coincided with the notion we already enbertained ita
them. bh halle gi VED WR ” oe ale

a

oe
Soe

—

North-West Continent of America. 37

.s we pushed. off, some of my men discharged their
ng pieces, that were only loaded with powder, at the
report. of which the Indians were very much alarmed, as
hey had not before heard the discharge of fire arms. This
iicrentones: had such an effect upon our guide, that we
_ had reason to apprehend he would not fulfil his promise.
When, however, he was informed that the noise which he
Wadiheard was a signal of friendship, he was persuaded
_ to embark in his own small canoe, though he had been
ei a seat in ours.
_. Two of his companions, whom he repr esented as his
rothers, followed us in their canoes ; and they amused
“ws not only with their native songs, but with others, im
Gertation of the Esquimaux; and our new guide was so
nlivened by them, that the antics he performed, in keep-
ing time to the singing, alarmed us with continual appre-
_ hension that his boat must upset: but he was not long
- content with his confined situation, and paddling up along-
_ side our canoe, requested us to receive him in it, though
_hut/a short time before he had resolutely refused to accept
our invitation. No sooner had he entered our canoe, than
_ he began to perform an Esquimaux dance, to our no small
alarm. He was, however, soon prevailed upon to be
| more tranquil; when he began to display varions indecen-
cies, according to the customs of the Esquimaux, of
| : which he boasted an intimate acquaintance. On our put-
ting to shore, in order to leave his canoe, he informed us
_ that on the opposite hill the Esquimaux, three winters be-
- fore, killed his grandfather. We saw a fox, and a ground-
hog on the hill, the latter. of which the brother of our
guide shot with, his bow and arrow.
About four in the afternoon we perceived a smoke on
the West shore, when we traversed and landed. ‘The
Matives made a most terrible uproar, talking with great
-vociferation, and running about as if they were deprived
of their senses, while the greater part of the women, with
the children, fled away. Perceiving the disorder which
_ Our appearance occasioned among these people, we had
Paited some time before we quitted the canoe; and Ihave
no doubt, if we had been without people to introduce us y
“that they would have attempted some violence against us ;
for when the Indians send away their women and children,
tis always with an hostile design. At length we pacified
them with the usual presents, but they preferred beads to.

= Fournal of a Voyage through the’

any of the articles that I offered them ; ‘particularly such —
as were of a blue colour; and one of them even requested —
to exchange a knife which I had given him for a’small —
quantity of those ornamental baubles. I purchased of —
them two shirts for my hunters; and at the same time —
they presented me with some arrows, and dried fish. ‘This —
party consisted of five families, to the amount, as I suip=
pose, of forty men, women, and children; but I did’ not
see them ail, as several were afraid to venture from theif —
hiding-places. They are called Degutheé Dinees, or the
‘Duarrellers. sidamusiles + OE CC
.' Our guide, like his predecessors, now manifested’ his
wish to leave us, and entertained similar apprehensions -
that we should not return by this passage. He had his —
‘alarms also respecting the Esquimaux, who might kill us, —
and takeaway the women. Our Indians, however, assured
him that we had no fears of any kind, and that he need not
be alarmed forhimself.. They also convinced him that we
should return by the way we were going, so that he con
sented to re-embark without giving us any further trouble;
and cight small canoes followed us. Our courses this day
were South-West by West six miles, South-West by
South thirty miles, South-West three miles, West by South
twelve miles, West by North two miles, and we encamped
at eight in the evening on the Eastern bank of the river. *
The Indians whom I found: here, informed me, that
from the place where I this morning met the first of their
tribe, the distance over land, on the East side, to the seay
was not lgng; and that from hence, by proceeding to the
Westward, it was still shorter.” They also represented the
land on both sides as projecting toa point. These people
do not appear to harbour any thievish dispositions; at
least we did not perceive that they took, or wanted to take,
any thing from us by stealth or artifice. They enjoyed the
amusements of dancing and jumping in common with those
we had already seen; and, indeed, these exercises seem’
to be theirfavourite diversions. About mid-dav the weae
ther was sultry, but in the afternoon’ it became’ coldy
There was a large quantity of wild flax, the growth of the:
last year, laying on the. ground, and the new plants were
sprouting up through it. This circumstance I did not
observe in any other part. | 4
Friday 10. At four in the morning we embarked, at@
small distance from the place of our encampment; the

o
‘ue,
1a!

te

t

North-West Continent of America. 89

r, which here becomes narrower, flows between hich
; anda meandering course took us North-West four
iles. At this spot the banks became low; indeed, from

first, rapid, the.country does not wear a mountainous
ance; but the banks of the river are-generally. lofty,
ne places periectly naked, and in others well. covered
patrol eee such as the fur and he birch., rei le con-

wa
i "The ee 1S lakes on vee h sides of the eiyer;: €3 dons these
“mountains, whose base is distant about ten miles: here the.
river widens, and runs through various channels, formed _
by islands, some of which are without a tree, and little
pare. than banks of mud and sand; while others are co-
vered with a kind of spruce fir, and trees of a larger size
than ewe had seen forthelastten days, ‘Their banks, which.
are about six feet above the surtace of the water, display a
7S of s aalid 3 La intermixed ie veins of black earth, and

we were ata in ss aiahibsh to sata: ven 08 wes ed
the Kasternmost, on account of the Esquimaux, but I de-
termined to take. ha middle channel, as it appeared to be
a larger body of water, and running North and South:
besides, as there was a greater chance of seeing them.I
cluded, that we could always go to the Eastward,
snever we might prefer it. Our course was now West
‘North six miles, North-West by West, the snowy
tains. being West by South from us, and stretching
- Northward as far as we could see. According
information of the Indians, they are part of the
of mountains which we approached on the third of
this month. I obtained an observation this day that g gave
‘wil 47, North latitude, which was farther North than I
expected, according to the course I kept; but the differ-
ee Was owing to the variation of the compass, which was
more Easterly than limagined. From hence it was evi-
d it these waters emptied themselves into the Hyper-
Sea; and though it was probable that, from the
ant of provision, we could not return to Ashabasuad inthe
course of the season, I nevertheless determined. to pene--

te re he vabeapale of hicm.

«

40 _ Fournal of a Voyage through the

My riew conductor being very much discouraged”
quite tired of his situation, used his. influence to pr
our proceeding. He had never been, he said, at
Benahulla Toe, or White Man’s Lake; and that whet
went to the Esquimaux Lake, which is at no great
tance, he passed over land from the place where we
him, and to that part where the Esquimaux pass the
mer. In short, my hunters also became so dishear
from these accounts, and other circumstances, tha
confident they would have left me, if it had been in.
power. I, however, satisfied them, in some degree,
the assurance, that I would proceed onwards but se
days more, and if I did not then get to the sea, Iv
return. Indeed, the low state of our provisions, wi
any other considerations, formed a very sufficient sec
for the maintenance of my engagement. Our last co
was thirty-two miles, with a stronger | current than co
be expected in such a low country. 4

We now proceed North-North-West pile inh North
West three miles, North-East two miles, North-West
West three miles, and North-East two miles. At.
past eight in the evening we landed and pitched our ten
near to where there had been three encampments of t J
Esquimaux, since the breaking up of the ice. ‘The nas
tives, who followed us yesterday, left us: at our station
this morning. In the course of the lay. hsv lib's
flocks of wild fowl. :

Saturday 11. Isat up all niehit to observe dees sun.
half past twelve I called up one of the men to viewas
tacle which he had never before seen; when, ons
the sun so high, he thought it was a signal to ecg
began to call the rest of his companions, who would sca
ly be persuaded by me, that the sun had not dese
nearer to the horizon, and that it was now but a short:
past midnight. ' Arad

We reposed, however, till three cquiaiseanhi pre
when we entered the canoe, and steered about, N
West, the river taking a very serpentine course.
seven we saw aridge of high land: at twelve we I
at a spot where we observed that some of the natives
lately been, I counted thirty places where there had!
fires; and some of the men who went further, saw as
more. ‘lhey must have been here fora considerable t
though it does not appear that they had erected any hw

North-West Continent of America. 4d

reat number of poles, however, were seen fixed in the
‘to which they had attached their nets, and there
ed to be an excellent fishery. One of the fish, of the
any which we saw leap out of the water, fell into our
Noe: it was about ten inches long, and of a round shape.
bout the places where they had made their fires were
ttered pieces of whalebone, and thick burned leather,

vith parts of the frames of three canoes; we could also
“observe where they had spilled train oil; and there was
the singular appearance of’a spruce-fir, stripped of its
branches to the top like an English may-pole. The wea-
ther was cloudy, and the air cold and unpleasant. From
this place for about five: miles, the river widens, it then
s in avariety of narrow, meandering channels, amongst
islands, enlivened with no trees, buta few dwarf wil-

At four, we landed, where there were three houses, or
her huts, belorging to the natives. The ground-plot is
an oval form, about fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in.
middle, and eight feet at either end: the whole. of it
ug about twelve inches below the surface of the ground,
id one‘half of it is covered over with willow branches ;
which probably serves as a bed for the whole family. A’
‘space, in the middle of the other part, of about four feet
ide, is deepened twelve inches more, and is the only’
“spot in the house where a grown person can stand upright,
One side of it is covered, as has been already described,
cand the other is the heart th, or fire-place, of which, how-
ever, they do not make much use. ‘Though it was close
_ to the wall, the latter did not appear to be burned. The
od or or entrance is in the middle of one end of the house,
and i 1s about two feet and an half high and two feet wide,
has a covered way or porch five feet in length ; so that
“it is absolutely necessary to creep on all fours in order to
get into, or out of, this curious habitation. There is
an hole of about eighteen inches square on the top of it, ©
which serves the three-fold purpose of a window, an oce
_casional door, and a chimney. The under-ground part
\ of the floor is lined with split wood. Six or eight stumps:
of small trees driven into the earth, with the root up-'
wards, on which are laid some cross pieces of. timber,
» supportthe roof of the building, which is an oblong square:
hea ten no by six. The whoie is made of drift-wood cov-
Ma ¥ Hi

42 | sfournalof a Voyage through. the,

ered with branches and dry. grass ; ; over. which iM
foot deep of earth. On each side of these hous ui uses are a, ew -
square holes in the ground of about two, feet i in. depth, —
which are covered with split. wood and earth, except in —
the middle. These appeared to be contrived, for the : Pea
servation of the winter stock of provisions. In and about |
the h houses we found sledge runners and bones, pieces of i
whalebone, and poplar bark cutin circles, which are. user
as corks to buoy.the nets, and are fixed to them by picces,
of whalebone. Before each hut a great number of stumps, —
of trees were fixed in.the ground, upon which i it. ADDEATA : 4
that they hung their fish to dry. ot
_ We now continued our voyage, and. encamped. at eight
o'clock... I calculated our course at about. North-Wes a
and, allowing for the windings, that we had made fifty.
four miles. We expected, throughout the day, to mee: ‘
with some of the natives. On several of the islands we —
perceived the print of their feet in the sand, as if they. had,
been there but a few days before, to procure wild fowl,
There were frequent showers of rain in the afternoon, and, —
the weather was raw and disagreeable. We saw a.black. dt
ox; but trees were now become very rare objects, SAFER)
a few dwarf willows, of not more than three feet in height, _
The discontents of our hunters were now renewed by,
the accounts which our guide had been giving. of that part. _
of our voyage that was approaching. According to his i Ang
formation, we were to see alarger lake on the morrow, —
Neither he nor his relations, he said, knew any thing about,
it, except that part which is opposite to, and not far from,
their country. The Esquimaux alone, he added, inhabits
its shores, and kill a large fish that is found i init, "which i As,
a principal part of their food ; this, we presumed, must.
be the whale. He also mentioned white bears and. another
large animal which was seen in those parts, but our hunters
could not understand the description which he gave of -it.
He also represented. their canoes as being of a large con-_
struction, which would commodiously contain four.or five,
_ families. However, to reconcile the English Chief to ti
necessary continuance in my service, I presented him with ‘3
one of my capots or travelling coats; at the same times 1)
satisfy the guide, and keep him, if possible, in. good hu-
mour, I gave hima skinof the moose deer, which, Pins.
pinion, was a valuable present. c Gone

a.

‘4S Alen
ik

North-West Continent of America. 43

© Sunday 42) It rained with violence throughout the
hig nerd till two in the morning ;. the weather continuing
cold. We proceeded onthe sarne‘meandering course
@s yesterday, the wind North-North-West, and the coun:
cond so naked. that scarce a shrub was.to be seen, At teh
the “morning, we landed where there were four huts,

‘ly the same as those which have been so lately des

* rery

4 The adjacent land is high, and covered with short

grass and flowers, though the earth was not thawed above
Hour inches from the surface ; beneath which was a solid

‘body of ice. ‘Fhis beautiful appearance, however, was
‘strangely contrasted with the ice and snow that are seen if
_ ‘the vallies. The soil, where there is any, is a yellow clay
“mixed with stones. T hese huts appear to have been mha-.

‘bited during the last winter; and we had reason to think,
_ that some of the natives had been lately there, as the beach
‘was covered with the track of their feet. Matly of the
-Yunners and bars of their sledges were laid together, neat
‘ ‘the houses, in a manner that seemed to denote the return
‘of the proprietors. There were also pieces of netting
Site of sinews, and some bark of the willow. The thread

| f the former was plaited, and no ordinary portion of time
- tiust have been employed in manufacturing so great &

Jength of cord. A square stone-kettle, with a flat bottom, 4

_ also occupied our attention, which was capable of contain-

_ ing two gallons ; and we were puzzled as to the means

- these people must have employed to have chiselled it out

‘of a solid rock into its present form. To these articles

_ May be added, small pieces of flint, fixed into handles of

‘wood, which, probably, serve as knives ; ; several wooden

"dishes; the stern and part of a large canoe ; pieces of very
thick leather, which we conjectured to be the covering of a

‘canoe ; several bones vf large fish, and two heads; but we

P €dGid not déteriiitie the animal towhich they belonged,

peat

ip though we conjectured that it must be the sea-horse. -

~~ When we had satisfied our curiosity we re- embarked,

_ but we were at a loss what course to steer, a8 our guide

-emed to be as ignorant of this country as ourselves.
hough the current was very strong, we appeared to liave
come to the entrance of the lake. The stream set to thé |

- ‘West, and we went with it to an‘ high point, at the dis-

\

tance of about eight miles, which we conjectured to be an

island ; but, on approaching it; we perceived it to be con-
pected with the shore by a low neck of land: Inow took

44 _ Sournal of a Voyage through the |

an observation which gave 69. 1. North latitude.: a
the point that has been just mentioned, we ‘continued the
same course for the Westernmost point of an high is island, —
and the Westernmost land in inci at the distance ne fifteen:
miles. Day oe

feet waict, and in some mr ha the depth did not exce ce r
one foot. From the shallowness of the water it was impos- _
sible to coast tothe Westward. At five o’clock we arrived —
at the island, and during the last fifteen miles, five feet
was the deepest water. The lake now appeared to be é
covered with ice, for about two leagues distance, and no
land a-head, so that we were prevented from proceeding —
in this dincotion by the ice, and the shallowness of the water
along the shore.
We landed at the boundary of our voyage in this direce4 \
tion, and as soon as the tents were pitched I ordered the
nets to be set, when I proceeded with the English chief to —
the highest part of the island, from which we discovered —
the solidice, extending from the South-West by compass —
to the Eastward. As far as the eye could reach to the —
South-Westward, we could dimly perceive a chain of |
mountains, stretching further to the North than the edge
of the ice, at the distance of upwards of twenty leagues, —
To the Eastward we saw many islands, and in our pro-
gress we met with a considerable number of white par-—
tridges, now become brown. ‘There were also flocks of —
very beautiful plovers, and I found the nest of one of |
them with four eggs. White owls, likewise, were among
the inhabitants of the place: but the dead, as well as the ©
living, demanded our attention, for we came to the grave ©
of one of the natives, by which lay:a bow, a paddle, and = q
aspear. The Indians informed me that they landed ona
small island, about four leagues from hence, where heel *
had scen the tracks of two men that were quite fresh; they
had also found a seeret store of train oil, and several bones — .
of white bears were scattered about the place where it was —
hid. The wind was now so high that it was impracticable z
for us to visit the nets. i
My people could not, at this time, refrain from expres- 4
signs of real concern, that they were obliged to return —
without reaching the sea: indeed, the hope of attaining —
this object encouraged them to bear, without repining, —

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®

CHAPTER V.

The sinbieng pembobe from the rising of th the bite.
of the nets driven away by the wind and current. Wi
are seen. Go in pursuit of them, but prevented from
tinuing tt by the fog. Proceed to take a view of th
Canoe in danger from the swell. Examine the islan
Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpetuate our
wisit there. The rising of the water appears to be the

the islands. Proceed to a river. Temperature of th
air improves. Landon a small island, which is a plac
of sepulture. Description of it. See a great number of
wild fowl. Fine view of the river from the high land)
The hunters kill rein-deer. Cranberries, c. found im
great plenty. The appearance and state of the countrys
Our guide deserts. Large flight of geese: kill many of
them. Violent rain. Return up the river. Leave the
channels for the main stream. Obliged to tow the canoes
Land among the natives. Circumstances concerning thems
Their account of the Esquimaux Indians. Accompany
the natives to their huts. Account of our provisions. — a

“iged F

uLy, 1789.
5 a 13. W «had no sooner retired to rest last night,

if I may use that expression, ina country where the sur
never sinks beneath the horizon, than some of the people
were obliged to rise and remove the baggage, on account
, oF the rising of the water. At eight in the morning the

to examine the nets, one — which had been driven ‘fo
its position by the wind and current. We caught sever :
poissons inconnus, which were unpalatable ; a white fish,
that proved delicious; and another about the size of at an
herring, which none of us had ever seen before, except
the English Chief, who recognized it as being of a kind
that abounds in Hudson’s Bay. . About noon the wind
blew hard from the Westward, when I took an cbse ‘a
tion, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, and the meridian
variation of the compass was thirty-six degrees Eastward*

* The lone has since been discovered by the dead <a
tobe 135. West.

North-West: Continent of America. 47

“i Phis. afternoon, I re-ascended the hill, but could not dis-
over that the ice had been put in motion by the force of
ind. At the same time I could just distinguish two
dh ielende, in the ihe to. the North-West by compass.

ia, in ardor, to ara, as pinch provision as possible

&

the water, our stores being reduced to about five
red weight, which, without any other supply, would
have sufficed for fifteen people about twelve days.
= of the young Indians, however, was so fortunate as
ind the net that had been missing, and which contained.
ce.of the poisons inconnus.

esdqy 14. It blew very hard from the North. West.
e the preceding evening. Having sat up till three in,
morning, I slept longer than usual; but about eight
of my men saw a great many animals in the water,
ich. he at first supposed to be pieces of ice. About

nine, however, I was awakened to resolve the doubts
vi : had taken cen ee this se ep

koe 8 Sk

in Dennis mt them. | “It. was, Grice, a very wild and un-
reflecting enterprise, and it was a very fortunate circum-
Stance that we failed in our attempt to overtake them, as.
astroke from the tail of one of these enormous fish would,
have dashed the canoe to pieces. We may, perhaps, have
een indebted to the fogey weather for our safety, as it
prevented. us from continuing our ahearigs Our 1 aia

he principle food of the Esquimaux, and they were fre-
quently seen as large as our canoe. The part of them
rh ch ‘appeared above the water was altogether white, and,
they were much larger than the largest porpoise.
Ke About. twelve the fog dispersed, and being curious to
tak ea view of the i ice, I gave orders for bic. canoe to be
got in readiness. We accordingly embarked, and the In-
di ns followed us. _ We had not, however, been an hour
on the water, when the wind rose on a sudden from the
North-East, and obliged us to tack about, and the return
C ‘the fog prevented us from ascertaining our distance.
-ffom the ice ; indeed, from this circumstance, the island
wh ch we had so lately left was but dimly seen. Though
ihe wind was close, we ventured to hoist the sail, and

tom. the violence of the swell it was by great exertions.

=

C Fournal of a Ve oyage through the :

that two men could bale out the water from our reese i.
were ina state of actual danger, ; and felt every correspon
ing emotion of pleasure when we reached the land. 1
Indians had fortunately got more to Windward, cbt |
swell insome measure drove them on shore, though th
canoes were nearly filled with water; and had they b
laden, we should have seen them no more. As I did:
propose to satisfy my curiosity at the risk of similar danger
we continued our course along the islands, which scree
us from the wind. I was now determined to take a mo!
particular examination of the islands, in the hope of mi
ing with parties of the natives, from whom I might be a
to obtain some interesting intelligence, though our c
ductor discouraged my expectations by.representing th
as very shy and inaccessible people. Atthe same time he
informed me that we should probably find some of them,
if we navigated the channel which he had originally’ recon
mended us to enter. ee
* At eight we encamped onthe Kawi end of teil
which I had named the Whale Island. It is about se
leagues in length, East and West by compass; but
more than half a mile in breadth.. We saw several
foxes, one of which was killed. There were also five
six very old huts on the point where we had taken
station. ‘The nets were now set, and one of them in:
fathom water, the current setting North-East by compas
This morning I ordered a post to be erected close to ov
tents, on which I engraved the latitude of the place,
own name, the number of persons which » rt had with’
and the time we remained there. |
Wednesday 15.- Being awakened by some sisal
ccumstance, at four this morning, I was surprised on p
ceiving that the water had flowed under our bag; ee A
the wind had not changed, and did not blow wit
violence than when we went to rest; we were all of opin
that this circumstance proceeded from the tide. We
indeed, observed at the other end of the island that
water rose» and fell; but we then imagined that it |
have been occasioned by the wind. The water contit
to rise till about six, but I could not ascertain the -
with the requisite precision, as the wind then bega
blow with great violence; I therefore determined, <
events, to remain here till the next morning, though,
happened, the state of the wind was such as to render m

North-West Continent of America. 49

tay here’an act ofnecessity. Our nets were not very suc-
e , as they presented us with only eight fish. From
servation which I obtained at noon, we were in 69. 7.
th latitude. As the evening approached, the wind
sed, and the weather became cold. Two swans
the oithy provision which the hunters procured for us.
hursday 16. ‘The rain did not cease till seven this
iorning, the weather being at intervals very cold and un-
pleasant. Such was its inconstancy, that I could not make
ate observation; but the tide appeared. to rise six-
n or eighteen inches.
‘ \ We now embarked, and steered under sail among me
lands, where I hoped to meet with some of the natives,
roe expectation was not gratified. Our guide ima-
gined that they were gone to their distant haunts, where
they fish for whales and hunt the rein-deer, that are oppo-
site to his country. His relations, he said, see them every
uw’, but he did not encourage us to expect that we should
dany of them, unless it were at a small river that falls
the great one, from the Eastward, at a considerable
nce from our immediate situation. We accordingly
e for the river, and stemmed the current. At two in
fternoon the water was quite shallow in every part of
r course, and we could always find the bottom with the
Idle. At seven we landed, encamped, and set the nets.
re the Indians killed two geese, two cranes, and a white
l. Since we entered the river, we experienced a very
eeable change in the temperature of the air ; but this
pleasant circumstance was not without its inconvenience,
‘@s it subjected us to the persecution of the musquitoes.
Friday 17. On taking up the nets, they were found to
‘ontain but six fish. We embarked at four in the morn-
, and passed four encampments, which appeared to have
very lately inhabited. We then landed upona small, .
und island, close to the Eastern shore, which possessed
omewhat of a sacred character, asthe top of it seemed to
a place of sepulture, from the numerous graves which
eobserved there. We found the frame of asmall canoe,
various dishes, troughs, and other utensils, which
been the living property of those who could now use
ino more, and form the ordinary accompaniments of
last abodes. Asno part of the skins that must have
red the canoe was remaining, we concluded that it had
n eaten by wild animals that inhabit, or occasionally fre-
G

50 cor of a Voyage through the

quent, the island. The frame of the canoe, which side
entire, was put together with whalebone: it was sewed in
some parts, and tied in others.. The sledges were from.
four to eight feet long; the length of the bars was upwards
of two feet; the runners were two inches thick, and nine
inches deep ; the prow was two feet and an half highy and
formed of two pieces, sewed with whalebone; to three
other thin spars of wood, which were of the same height,
and fixed in the runners by means of mortises, were sewed
two thin broad bars lengthways, ,at a small distance from
each other ; these. frames were fixed together with three
or four cross-bars, tied fast upon the runners; and on the
lower edge of the latter, small pieces of horn were fastened
by wooden pegs, that they might slide with greater facility,
‘They are drawn by shafts, which I imagine are applied to
any particular sledge as they are wanted, as I saw no more
. than one pair of them. ;
About half past one we came opposite to the first spruce
tree that we had seen for some time ; there are but ver
few of them on the main land,:and they are very small;
those are larger which are found on the islands, where they
grow in patches, and close together. It is, indeed; very
extraordinary that there should be any wood whatever be
country where the ground never thaws above five inches
from the surface. ‘We landed at seven in the evening
The weather was now very pleasant, and in the course of
the day we saw great numbers of wild fowl, with their
_ young ones, but they were so shy that we could not. ap=
proach them. ‘The Indians were not very successful im
their foraging party, as they killed only two grey cranes,
anda grey goose. ‘Two of them were employed on bai
high land to the Eastward, through the greater-part of the
day, in search of reindees; but they could discover nothing
more than a few tracks of that animal. I also ascend

the high land, bee whence I had a dhe “ie f

through islands, some of witch were covered with wo ody
and others with grass. ‘The mountains, that formed the
opposite horizon, were at the distance of forty miles. T é
inland view was even so extensive nor agreeable, beimg
terminated by a near range of bleak, barren hills, betwe
which are small lakes or ponds, while the | surrounding —
country is covered with tufts of moss, without ths shade

of a single tree. Along the hills is a kind of fence, ma

North-West Continent of America. ah

| with branches, where the natives had set snares to catch
hi ol
ute rday 18. The nets did ‘not produce a single fish,

ip icicle was. fine. and. clear, and we passed. several
n campments. — As the prints of human feet were very
fresh in the sand, it could not have been. long since the.
natives had visited the spot. We now proceeded in the
hope of meeting with some-of them at the river, whither
our guide was conducting us with that expectation. We
observed a gréat number of trees, in different places,
Bono branches had been lopped off to the tops. They
denote. the immediate abode of ‘the natives, and. probably
“serve for signals to direct each other to their respective
-winter-quarters. Our hunters, in. the course of the day
killed two rein-deer, which were the only large animals:
‘that we had seen since we had been in this river, and proved
airy seasonable supply, as our Pemmican had become
-mouldy for some time past; though in that situation we
ere under the necessity of eating it.

» In the vallies and low lands near the. river, a cel
are found i in great abundance, particularly in favourable
:... ee oe circumstance, that the fruit of

? Bcoys ae yellow colour, that resembles a yasphers V5 and
is of a very agreeable flavour. ‘There is a great variety of
other plants and herbs, whose names and properties are

. gate weather became cold aera the afteracans with
- appearance of rain, and we landed for the night at
‘seven in the evening. ‘he Indians killed eight geese.
During the greater part of the day I walked with the Eng-
ish Chief, and found it very disagreeable and fatiguing.
_ Though the country is so elevated, it was one continual
‘morass, except on the summit of some barren hills. As
carried my hanger in my hand, I frequently examined
if any part of the ground was in a state of thaw, but could
never force the blade into it, beyond the depth of six or

-inches. The face of ‘the high land, towards the
iver, is in some places rocky, and in others a mixture of
sand and stone, veined with a kind of red earth, pith
which nie natives bedaub themselves. ‘

52 Fournal of a Voyage. through the .

Sunday 19. It rained, and blew hard from the Nort
till eight in the morning, when we discovered that’
conductor had escaped. I was, indeed, surprised at h
honesty, as he left the moose-skin whidhicdsbet give
him for a covering, and went off in his shirt, though th
weather was very cold. I inquired of the Indians if they
had given him any cause of offence, or had observed any —
recent disposition in him to desert us, but they assurec
me that they had not in any instance displeased him:
the same time they recollected that he had expressed k
apprehensions of being taken away as a slave; and |
alarms were probably increased on the preceding da
when he saw them kill the two rein-deer with so mw
enemas In the afternoon the weather became fine an

They were of a small kind, and. shat alinuuad in size
those that frequent the vicinity of Athabasca. At eig’
we took our station near an Indian encampment, and,

deer’s horn, &c. were scattered about it. It also appez
ed, that the natives had been employed here m worki
~aetial into arms, utensils, &c. | ae

Monday 20. We embarked at three this mornin
when the weather was cloudy, with small rain and <
wind. About twelve the rain.became so violent as to co
pel us to encamp at two inthe afternoon. We saw gre
numbers of fowl, and killed among us fifteen geese ai
four swans. Had the weather been more favourable, we
should have added considerably to our booty. We no
passed the river, where we expected to meet some of th
natives, but discovered no signs of them. ‘The gre 11
close to the river does not rise to any considerable heigl
and the hills, which are at a small distance, are cover
with the spruce-fir and small birch trees, to their ve
summits,

Tuesday 21. We pee at half past oie pease:
ing, when the weather was cold and unpleasant, and
wind South-West. Atten, we left the channels fo
by the islands for the uninterrupted channel of the ri
where. we found the current so strong, that it was a
lutely necessary to tow the canoe with a line. Thel
on both sides was elevated, and almost perpendicular, at

North-West Continent of America. §3

the shore beneath it, which is nif no great breadth, was
‘covered with a grey stone that falls from the precipice.
We made much greater expedition with the line, than we
yuld have done with the paddles. The men in the canoe
ieved two of those on shore every two hours, so that it
very hard and fatiguing duty, but it saved a great deal
ofthat time which was so precious tous, Athalf past eight,
‘we landed at the same spot where we had erst encamp-
eg on the ninth instant.

_ In about an hour after our arrival, we were joined. by
Rieven of the natives, who were stationed further up the
Fiver, and there were some among them whom we had
‘not seen during our former visit tothis place. The brother
of our late guide, however, was of the party, and was
“eager in his inquiries after him; but our account did not
“prove satisfactory. ‘They all gave evident tokens of their
suspicion, and each of them made a distinct harangue on
the occasion. Our Indians, indeed, did not understand

their eloquence, though they conjectured’ it to be very un-
Recisutibie to our assertions. The brother, nevertheless,
“proposed to barter his credulity for a small quantity of
beads, and promised to believe every thing I should say,
af: I would gratify him with a few of those baubles: but
he did not succeed in his proposition, and I contented
_ myself with giving him the bow and arrows which our
conductor had left with us.
_. My people were now necessarily engaged in putting the
_fire-arms in order, after the violent rain of the preceding
day; ; anemployment which very much attracted the curio-
sity, and appeared, in some degree, to awaken the ap-
_ prehensions of the natives. To their inquiries concern-
ing the motives of our preparation, we answered by show-
img a piece of meat and a goose, and informing them,
that we were preparing our arms to procure similar pro-
‘visions ; at the same time we assured them, though it was —
our imtention to kill any animals we might find there was
_ho intention to hurt or injure them. They, however, en-
treated us not to discharge our pieces in their presence.
_Trequested the English Chief to ask them some questions,
_ which they either did or would not understand; so that I
_ failed in obtaining any information from them.
geeos Ak, my people went to rest; but I thought it prudent to
- sit up, in order to watch the motions of the natives. This
_ circumstance was a subject of their inquiry ; and their

54 Journal of a Voyage through the

\

curiosity was still more excited, when they saw me emo
ployed in writing. About twelve. ’clock I perceived foun
of their women coming along the shore; and they were
no sooner:seen by their friends, than they ran_ hastily. to.
meet them, and persuaded two of them, who, I suppose,
were young, to return, while they brought the other two —
who were very old, to enjoy the warmth of our fire; but,
alter staying there for about half an hour, they also re~
treated. ‘Those who remained, immediately kindled a_
small fire, and laid themselves down to sleep round it, —
like so many whelps, having neither skins or garments of —
any kind to cover them, notwithstanding the cold that pre-_
vailed. | My people having placed their kettle of meat on
the fire, I was obliged to guard it from the natives, who |
made several attempts to possess themselves of its con=
tents; and this was the only instance I. had hitherto dis-—
covered, of their being influenced by a pilfering disposi~ .
tion. It might, perhaps, be a general opinion, that pro-
visions were a common property. » ‘I now saw the sun set _
for the first time’since I had been here before. During
the preceding night, the weather was so cloudy, that I
could not observe its descent to the horizon. The water
had sunk, at this place, upwards of three feet since “7
had passed down the river..

Wednesday 22. We began our march at half ei ctheoal
this morning, the men being employed to tow the canoe. —
I walked with the Indians to their huts, which were at a_
greater distance than I had any reason to expect, for it —
occupied three hours in hard walking to reach them. We.
passed a narrow and. deep river in our way, at the mouth —
of which the natives had set their nets. They had hid
their effects, and sent their young women into the woods, —
as we saw but very few of the former, and none of thes:
latter. They had large huts built with drift-wood on the
_ declivity of the beach, and in the inside the earth was dug
away, so as toforma level floor. Ateach end wasa stout |
fork, whereon was laid.a strong ridge-pole, which formed
a@ support to the whole structure, and a covering of spruce _
bark preserved it from the rain. Various spars of dif.
ferent heights were fixed, within the hut, and covered with
split fish that hung on them to dry: and fires were made
in difierent parts to accelerate the operation. There were
rails also on the outside of the building, which were hung
around with fish, but ina fresher state than those within. —

. North-West Continent of America. ee

fhe spawn is ‘also carefully preserved and dried in the
same manner. We obtained as many fish from them as
- the ¢ canoe could conveniently contain, and some strings of
sads were the price paid for them, an article which they
4 Didicred to every other. Iron they held in little or no
rz estimation.
~ During the two hours that I remained here employed
Hae English Chief in a continual state of inquiry concern-
_ingthese people. The information that resulted from this
conference was as follows:
_ _ This nation, or tribe, is very numerous, with whom the
_ -Esquimaux had been continually at variance, a people
who take every advantage of attacking those who are not
1 a state to defend themselves ; and though they had
promised friendship, had lately, in the most treacherous
manner, butchered some of their people. As a proof of
_ this circumstance, the relations of the deceased showed
te s, that they had cut off their hair or the occasion. They
“saik odeclared their determination to withdraw all confidence
om future from the Esquimaux, and to collect:themselves
“in a formidable body, that they might be enabled to re-
; pvenge the death of their friends.
~~ From their account, a strong party co: Esquimaux, Occa-
sionally ascends this river, in large canoes, in search of
lint stones, which they employ to point their spears and.
arrows. They were. now at their lake due East from the
spot where we then were, which was at no great distance
yver land, where they kill the rein-deer, and that they
would soon begin to catch big fish for the winter stock.
We could not, however, obtain any information respect-
ing the lake in the direction in which we were. To the
Eastward and Westward where they: saw it, the ice breaks
9, but soon freezes again.
ger he Esquimaux informed show that. they saw large
canoes full of white men to the Westward, eight or ten
_ winters ago, from whom they obtained iron in exchange
for leather. The lake where they met these canoes, is
ealled by them’ Belhoullay Toe, or White Man’s Lake.
_ They also represented the Esquimaux as dressing like
themselves. They wear their hair short, and have two
holes perforated, one on each side of the mouth, ina line
with the under lip, in which they place long beads that
_ they find in the lake. Their bows are somewhat different
from those used by the natives we had seen, and they em-

56 -Fournal of a Voyage through the

ploy slings, from whence they throw stones with such sath
terity, that they prove very formidable weapons —_—— ny
of battle. ae

We also learned in wddationt’ free the natives, hatred
should not see any more of their relations, as they had all”
left the river to go in pursuit of rein-deer for their pro-—
visions, and that they themse‘ves should engage in a simi-
lar expedition 1 inaiew days. Rein-deer, bears, wolver-—
eens, martins, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes, are the
only quadrupeds in their country ; ; and that the latter were
only to be found m the mountains to the Westward. =

We proceeded with the line throughout the day, ex-—
cept two hours, when we employed the sail.. We ens
camped at eight in the evening. From the place we quits
ted this morning, the banks of the river are well covere :
with small wood, spruce, firs, birch, and willow. We
found it very warm during the whole ns our progress. c.

. Thursday 23. At five in the morning we proceededon
ur voyage, but found it very difficult to travel along the
beach. We observed several places where the natives
had stationed themselves and set their nets since our pas-
sage downwards. We passeda small river, and at five
o’clock our Indiahs put to shore in order to encamp, but
we proceeded onwards, which displeased them very much, -
from the fatigue they suffered, and at eight we encamped
at our position of the 8th instant. The day was very fine,
and we employed the towing line throughout the course
of it. Atten, our hunters returned, sullen and dissatis-
fied. We had not touched any of our provision stores
for six days, in which time we had consumed two rein=
deer, four swans, forty-five geese, and a considerable
quantity of fish: but it is to be considered, that we were
ten men, and four women. I have shocayis observed, that
the north men possessed very henry appetites, but the y

tered this river. A should roe have thought it deol r 4
gluttony in my people, if my own appetite had not increas=
ed in a similar Jap denlvetion a

SSI IL LISI ST

» Rey:

North-West Continent of America. 57:

2

CHAPTER VIL.

the towing line. Description af a place where the
ans come to collect flint. Their shyness and SUSPICIONS.
irrent lessens. Appearance of the country. Abundance
hares. Violent storm. Land near three lodges.
arm of the Indians. Supply of fish from them. THe
fabulous accounts. Continue to see Indian lodges. Treat-
; ment of a disease. Misunderstanding with the natives.
Ce The interpreter harangues them. ‘Their accounts similar
piso those we have already received. Their curious con-

: - Purchase some beaver skins. Shoot one of their
The consequence of that act. Apprehensions of
2 women. Large quantities of liquorice. Swallow’s
ests seen in the precipices. Fallin with a party of na-=

ne. Variation of the weather. Kill great numbers
of geese. Abundance of several hinds on berries. Sta
inog nd river wie zts bank. ;

ie time, were under the necessity of andes to
id of the line, the stream being so strong as to render
ur attempts unavailing to stem it with the paddles,
: pred a small river, on each side of which the natives
Esquimaux collect flint. The bank is an high, steep,
: soft t rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow
From the continual dripping | of water, parts of it
ede fall and break into small stony flakes like slate,
ot so hard. Among them are found pieces of Petro-

e friable. The English Chief informed me, that rocks
asimilar kind are scattered about the country, at the
of the Slave Lake, where the Ehepewyans collect

a ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had been
~ in towing, embarked. At twelve we observed
lodge on the side of the river, and its inhabitants run-
about in great confusion, or hurrying to the woods,
ee men waited our arrival, though they remained at

which bears a resemblance to yellow wax, but is —

ee geese. Circumstances concerning them. Hur= |

38 Fournal of a Voyage through the

to be employed; or at least, that appeared to be the
they wished to convey to us, by continually snapp’
the strings of the former, and the signs they made to

bid our approach. The English Chief, whose langu
they, in some degree, understood, endeavoured to
move their distrust of us; but till L went to them wi
present of beads, they refused to have any commut
tion with us. . “4

When they firs atticracieed our sail they uicle us for f
Esquimaux Indians, who employ a sail in their canc
They were suspicious of our designs, and questioned 1
with a view to obtain some knowledge of them. Onse
ing us in possession of some of the clothes, bows, »
which must have belonged to some of the Deguthee D
nees, or Quarrellers, they imagined that we had kille
some of them, and were bearing away the fruits of ©
victory. They appeared, indeed, tobe of the same tri
though they were afraid of acknowledging it. From their

“questions, it was evident that they had not received —
notice of our being in those parts.

They would not acknowledge that they had any wom
with them, though we had seen them running to the
woods; but pretended that they had been left at a consi
derable distance from the river, with some relations, wh
were engaged in killing rein-deer. ‘These people I had
been here but a short time, and their lodge was not yet
completed; nor had they any fish m a state of preparation
for their provision. I gave them a knife and some beads
for an horn-wedge or chisel, with which they split th
canoe-wood. One of my {uAlians having broken his pade
dle, attempted to take one of theirs, which was immedi-
ately contested by its owner, and on my interfering
prevent this act of injustice, he manifested his gratitu
to me on the occasion. We lost an hour and a half in tk -
conference. | a

in the ai Stich white some of shi hidden stoperty was sae
covered, but the women contrived to elude the search
that was made after them. Some of these articles were
purloined, but I was ignorant of this circumstance till we
had taken our departure, or I should certainly have giver
an ample remuneration. Our chief expressed his dis:
pleasure at their running away to conceal themselves, their
property, and their young women, in very bitter ter mS.

North-West Continent of America. 39

his heart was set against those slaves ; and com:
1 aloud of his ‘disappointment in coming so far
ut seeing the natives, and getting something from

t eeeboyed ive. sail and the paddle since ten dhe
ning, and pitched our tents at seven in the evening.
had no sooner encamped than we were visited by an
Indian whom we had seen before, and whose family was at
‘asmall distance up the river: at nine he left us. The
eather was clear and serene.
r Saturday 25. We embarked this morning at a quarter
past three, and at seven we passed the lodge of the Indian
who had visited us the preceding evening. There appeared
‘to have been more than one family, and we naturally con-
‘cluded that our visitor had made such an unfavourable re-
port of us, as to induce his companions to fly on our ap-
»proach. - Their fire was not extinguished, and they had
left a considerable quantity of fish scattered about their
te:
The weather was now very wailing ; but the current had
Getaxed of its force, so that the paddle was sufficient for
ur progress during the greatest part of the day. ‘The
- Gnland part of the country is mountainous, and the banks
Bee river low, but covered with wood, among which is
he poplar, but of small growth, and the first which we had
2en on our return. A pigeon also flew by us, and hares
Repearca to be in great plenty. We passed many Indian
campments which we did not see in our passage down
‘the river. About seven the sky, tothe Westward, became
sof asteel-blue colour, with lightning and thunder. We
accordingly landed to prepare ourselves against the coming
‘storm ; but before we could erect our tents, it came on
with such violence, that we expected it to carry every
‘thing before it. The ridge-pole of my tent was broken in
the middle,’ where it was sound, and nine inches and an
alf in circumference ; and we were obliged to throw our-
selves flat on the: ground to escape being wounded by the
Stones that were hurled about in the air like sand. The
violence of the storm, however, subsided in a short time,
“but left the sky overcast with the appearance of rain.
iA cay 26. It rained from the preceding evening to
‘this morning, when we embarked at four o’clock. At
“cigh we landed at three large Indian lodges. Their inha-
‘Ditants, who were asleep, expressed uncommonalarm and

pe oy

60 Fournal of a Voyage through the

agitation when they were awakened by us, thoug
them hadseenusbefore. ‘Their habitations were
with fish, hanging to dry in every part ; but as we w
some for present use, we sent their young men to vis
nets, and they returned with abundance of large white
to which the name has been given of poisson inconnu; s
of.a round shape, and green colour ;- and a few white ones
all which were very agreeable food. Some beads, and ¢
few other trifles, were gratefully received in return. These
people are very fond of iron-work of any kind, and»
men purchased several of their articles for small pie
of tin. an 4
There were five or six persons whom we had not seen
before ; and among them was a Dog-rib Indian, whom
some private quarrel had driven from his country. The
English Chief understood him as well as one of his own
nation, and gave the following account of their conversa=
tion :-— al,
He had been informed by the peopie wale hog he now
lives, the Hare Indians, that there is another river on the
other side of the mountains to the South-West, whieh
falls into the Belkoullay Toe, or White-man’s Lake; (im
comparison of which that on whose banks we then wil
was but a small stream; that the natives were very large,
and very wicked, and kill common men with their eyes;
that they make canoes larger than ours; that those who
inhabit the entrance of it killa kind of beaver, the skin of
which is almost red; and that large canoes often frequent
it. Asthere is no known communication by water with
this river, the natives who saw it went over the mouns
talpaiey 5 a 3
As he mentioned that there were some beavers in thi :
part of the country, I told him to hunt it, and desire the
others to do the same, as well as the martins, foxes, bea-
ver-eater or wolvereen, &c. which they might carry to
barter for iron with his own nation, who are supplied with
goods by us, near their country. He was anxious to know
whether we should return that way: at the same time he
informed us that we should see but few of the natives along
the river, as all the young men were engaged in killing
rein-deer, near the Esquimaux Lake, which, he also s:
was at no great distance. ‘The latter he represented as
very treacherous, and added, that they had killed one
his people. He told us, likewise, that some plan of re.

* ¢ ty

North-West Continent of America. 61

was meditating, unless the offending party paid a
t price for the body of the murdered person.
dians were very anxious to possess themselves of
that wes with the natives, but as they were not
to part with her, I interfered, to prevent her being
n by force: indeed I was obliged to exercise the ut-
t vigilance, as the Indians who accompanied me were
er ready to take what they could from the natives, with-
out making them any return. About twelve we passed a
iver of some appearance, flowing from the Eastward.
ne of the natives who followed us, called it the Winter
ad River. We didnot find the stream strong to-day
mg the shore, as there were many eddy currents: we
erefore employed the sail during some hours of it, and
ant on shore for the night at half past seven.
Monday 27. ‘The weather was now fine, and we re-
-mewed our voyage at half past two. At seven we landed
where there were three families, situated close tothe rap-
s. We found but few people; for as the Indian who
lowed us yesterday had arrived here before us, we sup-
sed that the greater part had fled, on the intelligence
lich he gave of our approach. Some of these people we
.seen before, when they told us that they had left their
operty at a lake in the neighbourhood, and had promised
fetch it before our return; but we now found them as
provided as when we left them. They had plenty vod
sh, some of which was packed up in birch bark.
*. During the time we remained with them, which was
not more than two hours, I endeavoured to obtain some
additional intelligence respecting the river which had been
mentioned ¢ on the preceding day ; when they declared their
_ total ignorance of it, but from the reports of others, as
they had never been ‘beyond the mountains, on the oppo-
“site side of their own river; they had, however, been in-
- formed that it was larger than that which washed the banks
-whereon they lived, and that its course was towards the
mid-day sun. They added, that there were people ata
‘small distance up the river, who inhabited the opposite
_ mountains, and had lately descended from them to obtain
‘supplies of fish. ‘These people, they suggested, must be
well acquainted with the other river, which was the object
: of my inquiry. I engaged one of them, by a bribe of
me beads, to describe the circumjacent country upon
the sand. This singular map he immediately undertook

_ harangue the natives, assembled in council; but his lh

62 fournal of a Voyage through the

to hie and accordingly traced out a very
of land between the rivers, though without
least attention to their courses, which he
running into the great lake, at the extre:
he had been told by Indians of other nations, :
Belhoullay Couim, or White Man’s Fort. . ,
be Unalascha Fort, and consequently the river to she 3
to be Cook’s: River; and that the hints of water or |
into which this river discharges itself at WI on
communicates with Norton Sound. / I made an ad
geous proposition to this man to accompany me across |
mountains to the other river, but he refused it. A
same time he recommended me to the people alr
mentioned, who were fishing in the neighbourhood,
ter qualified to assist me in the undereiae wh
proposed. .

One of this small company of natives waar
flicted with ulcers in his back; and the only
which was paid to his miserable ‘condition, as far a
as we could discover, proceeded from a woman
carefully employed a bunch of feathers in Laie ik
flies from settling upon his sores. Re aber

At ten this morning we landed near the lodges.
had already been mentioned to us, and [ ordered my pe
to make preparation for passing the remaining part of
day here, in order to obtain that familiarity with the
tives which might induce them to afford me, withou
serve, the information that I should require from t
This object, however, was in danger of being alt 1
frustrated by a misunderstanding that had taken place bes
tween the natives and my young [ndians, who were alre
arrived there. Before the latter could disembark, the fo
mer seized the canoe, and dragged it on shore, and i in’
act of violence the boat was broken, from the weight of
persons init. This insult was on the point of being se
ously revenged, when I arrived, to prevent the cor
quences of such a disposition. The variation of the
pass was about twenty-nine degrees to the East. —

At four in the afternoon I ordered my interpreter

discourse obtained little satisfactory intelligence
them. Their account of the river to the Westwarc
similar to that which we had already received; net

description of the inhabitants of that country, was

North-West Continent of America. 63

and ridiculous. They represented them as
itic stature, and adorned with wings, which,

never employed j in fying: that they fed on
ich they killed with the greatest ease, , though
would be certain victims of their voracity if
ured to approach them. They also described the
that inhabited the mains of the river as dannii

i Aapdieree beaver at a vase taeal. “They dcialeal, that
moes of very large dimensions visited that place. "They
pe ene ine relate these strange cincumstances from

ewhoncver een meet. They likewise aia
: sources of those streams which are tributary to
€ great rivers, are separated by the mountains. It
ed tous, however, that these people knew more
the country than they chose to communicate, or at
eached me, as the interpreter, who had long been
of the voyage, might conceal such a part of their
mications as, in his opinion, would mduce me to
“new routes, or extend my excursions. No sooner
‘the conference concluded, than they began to dance,
h is their favourite, and, except jumping, their only
isement. In this pastime old and young, male and
ale, continued their exertions, till their strength was
sted. ‘This exercise was accompanied by loud imi-
of the various noises modes by the rein-deer,
ar, and the wolf.

When they had finished their antics, I desired the Eng-
h Chief to renew the former subjects ; which he did
hout success. I therefore assumed an angry air, ex-
sed my suspicions that they withheld their information,
concluded with a menace, that if they did not give
ll the satisfaction in their power, I would force one
em along with me to-morrow, to point out the road to
> Otherriver. Onthis declaration, they all, at one and
same moment, became sick, and answered in avery -
int tone, that they knew no more than they had already

municated, and that they should die if I took any of

away. They began to persuade my interpreter to
im with them, as they loved him as well as they did |

64 Fournal of a Voyage through the

themselves, and that he would be killed if he ce
with me. Nor did this proposition, aided as 3
the solicitation of the women, fail of producing a
able effect upon him, sr he endeavoured |
it from me.

I di to ‘ox river ol the Bear Lake, whe I mee
‘find some of the natives, who promised to wait for
there. . These people had actually mentioned this river
me when we passed them, but I then paid no attention
that circumstance, as If imagined it to be either a misu
derstanding of my interpreter, or that it was an inve
tion which, with their other hes, might tend to preve
ame from proceeding down their river.

We were plentifully supplied with fish, as well say
fresh, by these people; they also spotless as many hurt
herties.as-we chose, for which we paid with the usual ¢
ticles of beads, awls, knives, and tin. I purchased a fe
beaver-skins of them, which, according to their acco
are not very numerous in this country ; and that they
not abound in moose-deer and buffaloes. They were alai
ed for some of their young men, who were “killing g
higher up the river, and entreated us to do them no hi
About sun-set I was under the necessity of shooting
of their dogs, as we could not keep those animals fre
our baggage. It was in vain that I had remonstrate
this subject, so that I was obliged to commit the act w:
has been just mentioned. When these people heardt
report of the pistol, and saw the dog dead, they we
seized with a very general alarm, and the women tui
their children on their backs and ran into the woods.»
ordered the cause of this act of severity to be explai
with the assurance that no injury would be offered to th
selves. The woman, however, to whom the-dog belor
ed, was very much affected, and declared that the los
five children, during the preceding winter, had not affect
her so much as the death of this animal. But her ¢
was not of very long duration ; anda few beads, &c. s
assuaged her sorrow. But as they can, without diffic
get rid of their affliction, they can with equal ease assum
it, and feign sickness if it be necessary with the same ver
satility. When we arrived this morning, we found the
Women, in tears, from an apprehension that we were come

Worth-West Continent of America. 65

maway. ‘To the eye of an European they cer-
re e objects of disgust; but there were those among
who observed some hidden charms inthese fe-
endered them objects of desire, and means
nd, I believe, that very soon dissipated their alarms
ubdued their coyness.
the upper part of the beach, liquorice grew in‘great
lance, and it was now in blossom. I pulled up some
roots, which were large and long; but the natives
e ignorant of its ea aia and considered it as a weed
nouse or value. _ e
Tuesday 28. Atfour this morning I ordered my people
prepare for our departure ; and while they were loading
canoe, I went with the English Chief to visit the
es, but the greater part of their inhabitants had quitted
a during the night, and those that remained pretended
ss, andrefused to rise. When, however, they were
nnced that we did not mean to take any of them with
their sickness abandoned them, and when we had em»
ed, they came forth from their huts, to desire that
_we-would visit their nets, which were at a small distance
up the river, and take all the fish we might find in them.
ccordingly availed ourselves of this permission, and
‘as many as were necessary for our own supply.
e landed shortly after where there were two more
es, which were full of fish, but without any inhabit-
_who were probably with the natives whom we had
ft. My Indians, in rummaging these places, found
l articles which they proposed to take; I thérefore
ye beads and awls, to be left as the purchase of them;
‘this act of justice they were not able to comprehend, as
people themselves were not present. I took up anet
| left a large knife in the place of it. It was about four
‘oms long, and thirty-two meshes in depth: these nets
) much more convenient to set in the eddy current than
long ones. This is the place that the Indians call a
apid, though we went up it all the way. with the paddle ;
that the current could not be so strong here, as in many
r parts of the river; indeed if it were so, the difficulty
on would be almost insuperable, as in many parts
ocks, which are of a great height, and rather project
‘the water, leave no shore bowweer them and the
m. These precipices abound in swallows’ nests. The

re,

66 Fournal of a Voyage through the

weather was now very sultry, and at eleven we were u
the necessity of landing to gum our canoes).
In about an hour we set forward, and at one in: the
noon, went on shore at a fire, - which we supposed
been kindled: by the young men, who, as we hi
already informed, were huntinggeese. Our hunters
their canoe, and the fowl they had, got, secreted in th
woods; and soon alter, the people themselves, whom the
browehts to the water-side. Outof two hundred geese
picked thirty-six which were eatable ; the rest were p
and emitted an horrid stench. They had been killed so:
time without having been gutted, and in this state of loath.
some rottenness, we have every reason to suppose the:
eaten by the natives. We paid for those which we.
taken, and departed. At seven inthe evening, the w
ther became cloudy and overcast; at eight we encamped
at nine, it began to thunder with great violence ; anh
rain succeeded, accompanied with an hurricane, that
down our tents, and threatened to carry away the ca
which had been fastened to some trees with a cod-
The storm lasted two hours, and deluged us with wet. -
Wednesday 29. Yesterday the weather was cloudy,
the heat insupportable ; and now we could not pu
clothes enough to keep us warm. Weembarkedataq
ter past four, with an aft wind, which drove us on at;
great rate, though the current is very strong. At ten1
came to the other rapid, which we got up with the lime
the West side, where we found it much stronger -
when we went down ; the water had also fallen at least
feet since that time, so that several shoals appeared in
river which. we had not seen beiore. Oneot. my hun
narrowly escaped being drowned in crossing a river
falls in from the Westward, and isthe most cunsider:
except the mountain Stee that flows in this directic
We had strong Northerly and cold wind throughout the
whole of the day, and took our station for the night at 1
quarter past eight. We killed a Boney, and caaget some
young ones. ae
Thursday 30. We renewed our voyage at four this
morning, alter a very ramy night. The weather was
cloudy, but the cold had moderated, and the wind was
North-West. We were enabled to employ the sail during
part of the day, and encamped at about seven in the even=
ing. We kilied eleven old.geese, and forty young ones,

\

~

North-West Continent of America. 67

had just begun to fly. The English Chief was very
irritated against one of his youngmen: that jealousy
1 this uneasiness, and that it was not without
‘sufficient cause, was all I could discover. For the
wo or three days we had eaten the liquorice-root, of
there is great abundance on the banks of the river.
e found it a powerful astringent.

riday 31. The rain was continual dinvotighiont the
xht, tind did not subside till nine this morning, when we
wed our progress.. The wind and weather the same
as yesterday. -About three in the afternoon it cleared up,
“and the wind died away, when it-became warm. At five
wind veered to the East,-and brought cold along with
There were plenty of hurtle berries, raspberries, and
ty called Pozre, which grows in the greatest abund-
We were very much impeded in our way by shoals
nd and small stones, which render the water shallow
distance from the shore. In other places the bank of
river is lofty ;-it is formed of black earth and sand,
as itis continually falling, displayed to us, in some
| s, a face of solid ice, to within a foot of the surface.
We finished this day’s voyage at a quarter before eight,
anc in the course of it killed’seven geese.
-- We now had recourse to our corn, for we had only con-

sumed three days of our original provision since we began
to mount the current. It was my intention to. have as-
eended the river on the South side from the last rapid, to
discover if there were any rivers of consequence that flow
from the Westward: but the sand-banks were sonumerous,
‘and the current so strong, that I was compelled to traverse
0 the opposite side, where the eddy currents are very
quent, which gave us an opportunity of setting our nets

d , making much more head-way.

a,

SLI II LS IM

68" Fournal of a Voyage through the?

CHAPTER vil. ee

Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of she interpre
. Stars visible. Springs of mineral water, and lumps
iron ore. Arrive at the river of the Bear Lake. C
- mine ina state of combustion. Water of the river.
_minished. Continue to see Indian encampments, and kill
| geese; Sc. Hunting excursions. A canoe faund on the:
_edgeofawood. Attempt to ascend a mountain. Account
of the passage tort. Seea few of the natives. Killa
beaver and some hares. Design of the Enghsh Chief.
_ Killawolf. Changeable state of the weather. Recove
. the Pemmican, which had been hidden in anisland. Nas
tives fly at our approach. Meet with dogs. Altercation:
- with the Enghsh Chief. Account of the articles left by
the fugitives. Shoals of the river covered with saline
matter. Encamp at the mouth of the river of the mountain.
_ The ground on fire on each side of tt. Continue to see
_ encampments of the natives. Various kinds of berriess
Kill geese, swans, &c. Se. Se. Corrodine quality 9
the water. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance
_ the Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on entering ite
» Caught pike and trout. Met MM. Le Roux on the lakes
. Further circumstances till our return to Fort 6 Gps Me
. Conclusion of the voyage. -

Auvcust, 1789. W |
ceo * E embarked at eae this morning, |

weather being clear and cold, with the wind at South-Ea
At three in the afternoon we traversed and landed to t:
the canoe in tow: here was an encampment of the natives
which we had reason to suppose they had quitted the P
ceding day. At five we perceived a family, consisting
a man, two women, and as many children, stationed.
the side of the water, whom we had not seen before. Th
informed us, that they had but few fish, and. that ne
of their friends were in the neighbourhood, except the in
habitants of one lodge on the other side of the river, a
man who belonged to them, and who was now occu
‘in hunting. I now found my interpreter very unwill
to ask such questions as were dictated to him, from 1
apprehension, as I imagined, that I might obtain such im

,

North-West Continent of America. 69

ce as would prevent him from seeing Athabasca >
season. We left him with the Indian, and pitched
is at the same ‘oot where we had passed the night

di Indian to our Gihcs ; mie sh ies ‘dioaiied: us that
native who went down part of the river with us had
ed there, and that we should meet with three lodges
his tribe above the river of the Bear Lake. Of the river
dspace he knew nothing but from the relation of
thers. This was the first night since our departure from |
i ciseece, when it was sufliciently dark to render the
- gtars visible. | :
ty 2. We set off at three this morning ili the
ywing-line. I walked with my Indians, as they went
than the canoe, and particularly as I suspected that
y wanted toarrive at the huts of the natives before me.
our way, I observed several small springs of mineral
srrunning from the foot of the mountain, and along the
n I sawseveral lumpsof iron ore. When we came
river of the Bear Lake, I ordered one of the young
s to wait for my canoe, and I took my place in their
canoe. This river is about two hundred and fifty
ards broad at this place, the water clear and of a greenish
eolour. When I landed on the opposite shore, I disco-
vered that the natives had been there very lately from the
int of their feet in the sand. We continued walking till
in the afternoon, when we saw several smokes along
e shore. As we naturally concluded, that these were
ain indications where we should meet the natives who
¢ the objects of our search, we quickened our pace ;
in our progress, experienced a very sulphureous smell,
at length discovered that the whole bank was on fire
ivery considerable distance. It proved to be a coal
to which the fire had communicated from an old
anencampment. ‘The beach was covered with coals,
_ and the English chief gathered some of the softest he could
find, as a black dye ; it’being the mineral, as he informed
me, with which the natives render their quills black.
Here we waited forthe large canoe, whicharrived an hour
rus. At half past ten we saw several Indian marks,
nich consisted of pieces of bark fixed on poles, and point-
ingto the woods, erent to which is an old beaten road,
that bore the marks of being lately frequented; the beach
was covered with tracks. At asmall distance were

10 Sournalof te Voxjagé through the!

the poles of five lodges standing ; where we tanta’ and?
unloaded our canoe. I then dispatched one of my:
and two young Indians to see if they could find any nati
within a day’s march of us. I wanted the English ‘Ch
to go, but he pleaded fatigue, and that it would be of no
use. This was the first time he had refused to comply
with my desire, and jealousy, I believe, was the catse of
it in the present instance: though I had taken every pre:
caution that he should not have cause to beyjealous of the
Canadians. There was not, at this time, the least appear.
ance of snow on the opposite mountains, though they were.
almost covered with it when we passed before. Set two
nets, and at eleven o’clock at night the men and Indians res
turned. ‘They had beento their first encampment, where
there were four fires, and which had been quitted a short
time before ; so that they were obliged to make the circui i
of several small lakes, which the natives cross with their
canoes. ‘This encampment was on the borders of a lake
which was too large for them to venture round it, so that
they did not proceed ¢ any further. They saw séverah Oil =
vers and beaver lodges in those small lakes. They killed
one of these animals whose fur began to get long, a sure
indication that the fall of the year approaches. ‘They also
saw many old tracks of the moose and rein-deer. ‘Thisis
the time when the rein-deer leave the plains to come to the
woods, as the musquitoes begin to disappear; I, there-
fore, apprehended that we should not find a single Indian
on the river side, as they would be in or about the moun
tains setting snares to take them. | eal

Monday 3. We proceeded w ‘tha atone WiBateeiyl ad;
at'four this morning, the weather being cloudy and cold.
At twelve it cleared up and became fine: the current also’
ancreased. The water had fallen so much since our be |
sage down the river, that here, as in other places, we |
covered many shoals which were not then visible. V
killed several geese of a larger size than those which“
had generally seen. Several Indian encampments were
seen along the river, and we landed at eight for the night,

Tuesday 4. At four in the morning we renewed” 0
t course, when it was fine and calm. The night had been
cold and a very heavy dew had fallen. At nine we were
obliged to land in order to gum the canoe, when the we
ther became extremely warm. Numerous tracks of rei

deer appeared on the side of the river. At half past f ae

North-West Continent of America. cs ae

k our station for the. night and set the nets. The
rent was very strong all day, and we found it very diffi-
walk along the beach, from the large ‘stones which.

Sarsideny:2 5. We calmer our nets but had not the pond
tune to take asingle fish. ‘Fhe water was now become

The current had not relaxed its strength ; and the
culty. of walking along the beach was conéinueda: The
was now become so cold, that our exercise, violent ag
was, scarce kept us warm. We passed several points |
hich. we should not have accomplished, #f the canoe had
nloaded. We were very much fatigued, and at six
e glad to conclude our toilsome march. ‘The Indians
‘two geese. The women who did not quit the canoe,
ere continually employed in making shoes of moose-skin,
the men, as a pair did not last morethanaday.
"hursday 6. ‘The rain prevented us from proceeding
half past six, when we had a strong aft wind, which,
ed by the paddles, drove us on ata great rate. We
mped at six to. wait for our Indians, whom we had
een since the morning; and at half past seven.they
ed. very much dissatisfied with their day’s journey.
o days had now elapsed since we had seen the least 6
arance of Indian habitations.
‘riday 7. We embarked at half past Saas. and soon
1 perceived two rein-deer on the beachbefore us.. We
ordingly checked our course ; but our Indians, in con-
ding who should be the first to get near these animals,
med and lost them. We, however, killed a Fouale
in-deer, and ftom the wounds in her hind-legs, it was.
supposed that she had been pursued by wolves, who had
ured her young one: her udder was full of milk, and
of the young Indians. poured it among some boiled
which he ate with great delight, esteeming it a very
jous food. At five inthe afternoon we saw an animal
unning along the beach, but could not determine, whe-
ther it was a grey fox ora dog. Ina short time we went
ore for the night, at the entrance of a small river, as t
ight there might be some natives in the vicinity of the
ace. ordered my hunters to put their fuzees in order,
: ke them ammunition to proceed on an hunting party
the next day ; they were also instructed to discover if
ere were any natives in the neighbouring mountains.. I

Bhi Fournal of a Voyage through the

found a small canoe at the edge of the woods, whichic
tained a paddle anda bow: it had been repaired ie 8
and the workmanship of the bark excelled any that
yet seen. We saw several encampments in the cour:
-theday. The current of the river was very strong,
along the points equal to rapids. .
‘Saturday 8. ‘lhe rain was very violent throughou
‘night, and continued till the afternoon of this day,.:
the weather began to clear, with astrong, cold, and 1
terly wind. At three the Indians proceeded on the h
ing expedition, and at eight they returned without ha
met with the least success; though they saw nume
tracks of the rein-deer. They came to an old. beaten road,
which one of them followed for some time; but did not
appear to have been lately frequented. The rain now ré=
turned and continued till the morning. he
Sunday 9. "We renewed our voyage at half past thn ay
the weather being cold and cloudy; but at ten it became —
clear and moderate. We saw another canoe at the outs:
of the wood, and one of the Indians killed a dog, while
Was Ina meagre, emaciated condition. We a
rious places where the natives had made their fires;
these people reside but a short time near the river, ‘and, Ce
move from one bank to the other, as it suits their purposes.
We saw a path which was connected with another on the
opposite side of the river. ‘The water had risen consider-
ably since last night, and there had been a strong current
throughout the day. Atseven we made to the shore and
encamped. |
Monday 10. At three this morning we retinal to our-
canoe ; the weather fine and clear, with alight wind fro
the South-East. The Indians were before us in purst
of game. At ten we landed opposite to the mountains
which we had passed on the second of the last month, im
order to ascertain the variation of the compass at this pl
but this was accomplished ina very imperfect manner,
could not depend on my watch. . One of the hunters j
ed us here, fatigued and unsuccessful. As these mo
tains are the last of any, considerable magnitude on
South-West side of the river, IT ordered my men to c1
to that side of it, that I might ascend one of them.
near four in the afternoon when I landed, and I}
time in proceeding to the attainment of my object. |

awl

North-West Continent of America. 73

people was subdued by the fatigue they had undergone;
and we soon had reason to believe that we should pay.
arly for the indulgence of our own. The wood, which
hiefly of spruce-firs, was so thick that it was with
it dificulty we made our way through it. When we
had walked upwards of an hour, the underwood decreased,
while the white birch and poplar were the largest and tall~
‘est of their kind that I had ever seen. The ground now
‘began to rise and was covered with small pines, and at
th we got the first view of the mountains since we had
the canoe ; as they appeared to be no nearer to us,
ugh we had been walking for three hours, than when
we had seen themfrom the river, my companion expressed
“avery great anxiety to return; his shoes and leggins were
‘torr to pieces, and he was alarmed at the idea of passing
‘through such bad roads during the night. I persisted;
wever, in proceeding, with a determination to pass the
ton the mountains and return on the morrow. As
approached them, the ground was quite marshy, and
vaded in water and grass up to the' knees, till we came
in a mile of them, when I suddenly sunk up to my
-pits, and it was with some difficulty that I extricated
yself from this disagreeable situation. I now found it
possible to proceed: to cross this marshy ground ina
ght line was impracticable ; and it extended so farto the
and left, that I could not attempt to make the circuit:
nerefore determined to returnto the canoe, and arrived
sre about midnight, very much fatigued with this fruit-
$ journey. j . |
Tuesday 11. We observed several/tracks along the
‘beach, and an encampmentat the edge of the wood which
“appeared to be five or six days old. We should have con-
‘tinued our route along this side of the river, but we had
seen our hunters since yesterday morning. We ac»
tdingly embarked before three, and at five traversed'the
when we saw two of them coming down in search
ofus. They had killed no other animals than one beaver,
and a few hares. pg ording to their account, the woods
were so thick that it was impossible to follow the game’
through them. They had seen several of the natives’ en-
‘campments, at no great distance from the river; and it
was their opinion that they had discovered us in our pas-
ze down it, and had taken care to avoid us ; which ac
sounted for the small number we had seen on our return.
| K

~

74 Fournal of a Voyage through the

I requested the English chief to return with the to the
other side of the river, in order that he might proceed t ‘
discover the natives, whose tracks and hak eaten we had
seen there; but he was backward in _complying with my

' desire, and proposed to send the ° young men ; but IT cou (

not trust to them, and at the same time was ba ceil rather
doubtful of him. ‘They were still afraid lest I should ob-
tain such accounts of the other river as would induce-me
to travel over land to it, and that they should be called
upon to accompany me. I was, mdeed, informed by one

pete

of my own people, that the English Chief, his wives and

companions, had determined to leave me, on this side of
the Slave Lake, in order to go to the country of the Bea-

ver Indians; and that about the middle of the winter he
would return to that lake, where he had appointed to meet
some of his relations, wh 0, during the last spring, had beat
engaged in war. i

We now traversed the river, and continued to trad ay
Indians till past twelve, ‘when we lost all traces of them;
in consequence, as we imagined, of their having crossed
tothe Eastern side. We saw several dogsonboth shores;
and one of the young Indians killed a wolf, which the men
ate with great satisfaction: we- shot, ‘Aisin, fifteen youn
geese that were now beginning to fly. It was eight whe1
we took our evening station, having lost four hours im
making our traverses. There was no ee sa ie e
fine weather during the course of this pei We

Wednesday 12. We proceeded: on ou voyage at three
this morning, and dispatched the two young Indians acro
the river, that we) might not miss any of the natives that
should'be on the banks of it. We saw many places where
fires had been lately made along the beach, as well as fire
running in the woods. At four we arrived at an encamp

ment which had been left this morning. Their tracks

a

tation on his part, penetrated severa

were observable in several places in the woods, and as it
might be presumed that they could not be at any great
distance, it was proposed to the chief to accompany me in
search of them. We accordingly, tgegh with some hesi-

iles into the woods,
but without discovering the objects of our research. The
fire had spread all over the country, and had burned about

three inches of the black, light soil, which covered a body
of cold clay, that was so ‘hard as not to receive the Teast
impression of our feet. At ten we returned from our -

pars
a a ry
« a |
B if
»

North-West Continent of America. 75

sful excursion. In the mean time the hunters had
seven geese. There were several showers of rain,

mpanied with gusts of wind and thunder. The nets
been set during our absence.

Thursday 13. Thenets were taken up, but not one fish was
yundin them; andathalf past three we continued our route,
h very favourable weather. We passed several places,
where fires had been made by the natives, and many tracks
were perceptible along the beach. At seven we were op-
~posite the island where our Pemmican ae been concealed:
two of the Indians were. accordingly spatched in search
of it, and it proved very ¢ acceptable, as it rendered us more
ndependent of the provisions which were to be obtained
by our fowling pieces, and qualified us to get out of the
-river without that delay which our hunters would other-

on the shore to the South-West, at the distance of three
de agues, which did not appear to. proceed from any run-
@ are... The, Indians, who were alittle way ahead of
ae not discover it, being engaged in the pursuit of a
lock of geese, at Haat they fired several shots, when the
smoke immediately disappeared ; and in ashort time we
saw several of the natives run along the shore, some of
whom entered their canoes.. Though we were almost op-
“posite to them, we could not cross the river ‘without
going further up it, from the strength of the current; I
i herefore ordered our Indians to make every possible ex-
ertion, in order to speak with them, and wait our arrival.
- But as soon as our small canoe struck off, we could per-
ceive the poor affrighted people hasten.to the shore, and
after. drawing their canoes on the beach, hurry into the
ees. It was past ten before we landed at the place
where they had deserted their canoes, which were four in
number. They were so terrified that they had left several
arti cles on the beach. I was very much displeased with
my Indians, who, instead of seeking the natives, were di-
-widing their property. , I rebuked the English Chief with
some severity for his conduct, and. immediately Or-
dered him, his young men, and my own people, to go,
4am search of the fugitives, but their fears had made them
te 20 nimble for us, nd we could not overtake them. We
" aw several dogs in the woods, and some of them follow-
ius to our canoe.

wise have required. Ina short time we perceived a smoke _

ms

‘made of the bark of the spruce-fir, and will carry two

76 Fournal o a Voyage through the

» The English Chief was very much displeased at my re: :
goichics, and expressed himself to me in person to that
effect. This was the very opportunity which I wanted, to
make him acquainted with my dissatisfaction for some
time past. I stated to him that I had come a great way,
and at a very considerable expense, without having coms
pleated the object of my wishes, and that I suspected he
had concealed from mea principal part of what the natives |
had told him respecting the country, lest he should be
obliged to follow me: that his reason for not killing game, —
&c. was his jealousy, which likewise prevented him from
looking after the natives as he ought ; and that we had
never given him any cause for any suspicions of us. These
suggestions irritated him in a very high degree, and he
accused me of speaking ill words to him; he denied the
charge of jealousy, and declared that he ‘did not conces
any thing from us; and that as to the ill success of their
hunting, it arose from the nature of the country, and the
scarcity, which had hitherto appeared, of animals in it.
He concluded by informing me, that he would not accoms
pany me any further: that though he was without ammus
nition, he could live in the same manner as the slaves (the
name given to the inhabitants of that part of the country),
and that he would remain among them. His harangueé
was succeeded by a loud and bitter lamentation; and his
relations assisted the vociferations of his aitely though
they said that their tears flowed for their dead friends. i
did not interrupt their grief for two hours, but as I cou
not well do without them, I was at length obliged to sooth
it, and induce theichief to change his resolution, which he
did, but with great apparent reluctance; when we em
barked as we had hitherto done. © ie
The articles which the fugitives had left behind hee
on the present occasion, were bows, arrows, snares for
mosse and rein-deer, and for hares; to these’may be. ad
ded a few dishes made of bark, some skins of the marti
and the se abo and old beaver robes, with a small robe
made of the skin of the lynx. Their canoes were coarsely

three people. I ordered my men to remove them to 1
shade, and gave most of the other articles to the yos 4
Indians. The English Chief would not accept of any of
them. In the place, and as the purchase of them, I left
some cloth, some small knives, a file, two fire-steels, a

a

North-West Continent of America. 7%

ae: rings, with beads and awls. I also ordered a mar-
‘tin skin to be placed on a proper mould, and a beaver skin
be stretched on a frame, to which I tied. a scraper. The
rt hans were of opinion that all these articles would be
, as the natives were so much frightened that they
mould never return. Here we lost six hours; and on our
quitting the place, three of the dogs which I have awrcady
‘mentioned followed us along the beach.
~ We pitcheal our tents at half past eight, at the entrance
of the river of the mountain; and while the people were un-
loading the canoe, I took a alk along the beach, and on the
oals, which being uncovered since we passed down, by
the sinking of the waters, were now white with a saline
‘substance. I sent for the English Chief to sup with me,
“and a dram or two dispelled all his heart-burning and dis-
content. He informed me that it was a custom with the
~Chepewyan Chiefs to go to war after they had shed tears,
‘order to wipe away the disgrace attached to such a femi-
nine weakness, and that in the ensuing spring he should
not fail to execute his design; at the same time he declared
his i intention to continue with us as long as I should want
him. I took care that he should carry some liquid conso-
Jation to his lodge, to prevent the return of his chagrin.
“The weather was fine, and the Indians killed three geese.
RUF viday 14. Ata quarter before four this morning, we
-teturned to our canoe, and went about two miles up the
‘Fiver on the mountams. Fire was in the ground on each |
side nob it,’ In traversing I took soundings, and found
five, four and an half, and three and an half fathoms wa-
ter Its stream was very muddy, and formed a cloudy
Streak along the water of the great river, on the West side
of the Eastern rapid, where the waters of the two rivers —
rlength blend in one. It was impossible not to consider
an Ree Seemed circumstance, that the cuurrent: of
the former river should not incorporate with that of the
datter, y bat flow, as it were, in distinct streams at so great
a Biase, and till the contracted state of the channel
ete them. _We passed several encampments of the na-

ike appearance of being navigable. "We,concluded
rT voyage of this day at half past five in the afternoon.
“There were plenty of berries, which my people called
f vires s — are of a purple hue, somewhat bigger than a

"8 Sournal of a Voyage through the

pea, and of a luscious taste; there were also BOOhenery
and a few strawberries.
Saturday 15. We continued our course fiom th
_ the morning till half past five in the afternoon. W
several encampments along the beach, till it became te
narrow to admit them; when the beniles rose into ac
siderable degree ef elevation, and there were more ed
currents. . The Indians killed twelve geese, and berr
were collected in great abundance. ‘he whe inet was s
try throughout the day.
‘Sunday 16. We continued our vote ata peri |
fore four, and in five hours passed the place where we
een stationed on the 13th of June. Here the r
widened, and its shores became flat. The land on -
North side is low, composed of a black soil, mixed w:
stones, but agreeably covered with the aspen, the popl
the white birch, the spruce-fir, &c. The current was.
moderate, that we proceeded upon it almost as fast.as
dead water. Attwelve we passed an encampment of thr
fires, which was the only one we saw in the course of th
‘day. The weather was the same as yesterday. :
DMonday 17. We proceeded at half past three; and s:
three successive encampments. From the peculiar str
ture of the huts, we imagined that some of the Red-K
Indians had been in this } part of the country, though
not usual for them to come this way. I had last night c
dered’the young Indians to precede us, for the purpo
of hunting, and at ten we overtook them... They had killee
five young swans; and the English Chief presented u
with an eagle, three cranes, a small beaver, and two ge
We encamped at seven this evening, on the same -
which had been our resting-place | on the 29th of June.
Luesday 18. Attour this morning I equipped all the I
dians for an hunting excursion, and sent them onward
our stock of provision was nearly exhausted. We follor
at half past six, and crossed over to the North shore,wi
the land is low and scarcely visible in the horizon. I
near twelve when we arrived. Inow got an observ
whea it was 61. 33. Northlat. We were near five
to the North of the main channel of the river. — The
tracks and beds of buffaloes were very perceptible:
this place a river flowed in from the Horn mou
Be oieyaph are at no great pik eoouinrt We landed at ive

=

* -

North-West Continent of America. 79

of arrived with the tongue of a cow, or female buffaloe,
four men and the Indians were dispatched for the
h; but they did not return till it was dark. They in-
ned me, ‘that they had seen several human tracks i lin
sand on the opposite island. The fine weather con-
dwithéut interryption. — : ie
: ednesday 19. The Indians were again sent forward
pursuit of game: and some time being - employed. in
aming the canoe, we did not embark. till: half past five,
at nine we landed to wait the return of the hunters. I
e found the variation of the sikieiani to be about twenty
preesBast. w+

he people made eaten paddles mad paises the
oe. It is an extraordinary circumstance for which I
ot pretend to account, that there is some peculiar
lity in the water of this river, which corrodes wood,
athe destructive effect it had on the paddles. The
unters arrived at a late hour. without having seen any
arge animals. ‘[heir booty consisted only of three swans
las many geese. The women were employed in gather-
cranberries and crowberries, which were found 1 in
abundance. —

ursday 20. We embarked at four o’clock, and ae
North side of the channel, though the current was on
-side much stronger, in order to.take.a view..of the
r, which had been mentioned to me in our passage
wnhwards, as. flowing from the country of the Beaver
lians, and which fell in hereabouts. We could not,
ever, discover it, and it is probable that the account
referable to the river which we had passed on Tues-
, The current was very strong, and we crossed over
in island opposite to. us; here it was still more im-
us, and assumed the hurry of arapid. We found
ig and a paddle on the side of the water; the former
new to belong to the Knistineaux: I supposed it to
e chief Merde-d’ours and his party, who went to war

i

basca. Nor is it improbable that they may have
a the cause that we saw so few of the natives on the
s of this river. The weather was raw and cloudy,
formed a very unpleasant contrast to the warm, sunny
which immediately preceded it. We took up our.
for the night at half past seven, on the N orthern
‘where the adjacent country is both low and. flat.

pring, and had taken this route on their return to

80 Fournal of a Voyage nhettiat the. ae

The Indians killed five young swans, sin abcavenss There
was an appearance of rain. _ ee
_ Friday 22. ‘Vhe weather was cold, ih a strong Ea e:
terly wind and fr equent showers, so that we were detained -
in our station. In the afternoon the Indians got. on the
track-of a moose- can but were not so fortunate as to a
take it.

renewed our voyage, and, In three ‘salar ict tieg ea ne
trance of the Slave Lake, under half sail; with the pade
it would have taken us at least cight hours. . The Ind
did not arrive till four hours after us ; but the wind -
so violent, that it was not expedient to venture into
lake ; we therefore set a net and encamped for the ni
The women gathered large quantities of the fruit, alrea
mentioned, calied Pathagomenan, and ctanbetiriees crow
berries, gis We ries, Ser, The Indians killed two ae
and three geese.
Sunday 23. ‘The net produced but five small pike}: a
at five we embarked, and entered the lake by the sa
channel through which we had passed from it. The South
West side would have been the shortest, but we were :
certain of there being plenty of fish along. the coast,
we were sure of finding abundance of them in the co
we preferred. Besides, I expected to find my peop
the place where I left them, as they had received or
to remain there till the fall. a
We paddled along way into a deep bay to get the w
and having left our mast “behind us, we landed to cut
other. We then hoisted sail and were drivenon at a gr
rate. At twelve the wind and swell were augmented
such a degree, that our under yard broke, but luckily
mast thwart resisted, till we had time to fasten dowr
yard with a pole, without lowering sail. We took
large quantity of water, and had our mast given way, in.
probability, we should have filled and sunk. Our.cou
continued to be very dangerous, along a flat lee sho
without being able to land till three in the afternoon.
men were continually employed in bailing out the
which we took in on all sides. We fortunately es 1
point that screened us from the wind and swell, and ¢
camped for the night, in order to wait for our. indi
We thenset ournets, made a yard and mast, and gum:

af _ North-West Continent of America, 81

De On visiting the nets, we found six white fish,
two bike! The women gathered cranberries and crow-
in great plenty ; and as the night came on the wea-
came more moderate. _
nday 24. Our nets this morning prodhiced frntecen
e fish, ten pikes, and a couple of trouts. At five we
barked with a light breeze from the South, when we
sted sail, and proceeded slowly, as our Friday: had not
up withus. At eleven we went onshore to prepare
kettle, and dry the nets; at one we were again on the
r. At four in the afternoon we perceived a large
e ‘with a sail, and two small ones a head; we soon ©
¢ up with them, when they proved to be M. Le Roux
an Indian, with his family, who were ona hunting
y, and had been out twenty-five days. It was his in-
ition to have gone as far as the river, to leave aletter for
inform me of his situation. He had seen no more In-
ms where Ihad left him; but had made a voyage to Lac
farte, where he met eighteen small canoes of the Slave
ans, from whom he obtained five packs of skins, which
principally those of the martin. There were four
er Indians among them, who had bartered the great-
rt of the diate dnentioned articles with them, before
rival. They informed him that their relations had
re skins, but that they were afraid to venture with them,
ugh they had been informed that people were to come
th goods to barter for them. He gave these people a
of ice chisels each, and other articles, and sent them
to conduct their friends to the Slave Lake, where he
remain during the succeeding winter.
set three nets, and in a short time caught twenty
of different kinds. In the dusk of the evening the
lish’ Chief arrived with a most pitiful account that he
like to have been drowned in trying to follow us; and
the other men had also avery narrow escape. Their
, he said, had broken on the swell, at some distance
e shore, but as it was flat, they had with his assist-
en able to save themselves. He added, that he
m lamenting, lest they should not overtake me, if
ot wait for them: he also expressed his apprehen-
at they would not be able to repair their canoe.
evening I gave my men some rum to oo them after

a Fournal of a Voyage through the |

Fuesday 25. We rose this morning at a late hour,
when we visited the nets, which produced but few io 4
my people, indeed, partook of the stores of M. Le Roux. _
At eleven the young Indians arrived, and reproached me _
for having left them so far behind. They had killed two
swans, and brought me one of them. The wind w
Southerly throughout the day, and two strong for us
depart, as we were at the foot of a grand traverse. A
noon I had an observation, which gave 61. 29.. North lat
tude. Such was the state of the weather, that we co
not visit our nets. In the afternoon the sky darken
and there was lightning, accompanied with loud claps.
thunder. The wind also veered round to the Westwar
and blew an hurricane...
Wednesday 26. It rained chisiagiaeae the night, and. 1
eight in the morning, without any alteration in the wi
The Indians went on an hunting excursion, but retur
_ altogether without success in the evening. One of. th
was so unfortunate as to miss a moose-deer. In the af
noon there were heavy showers, with thunder, &c.
Thursday 27. We embarked before four, and hois
sail. At nine we landed to dress victuals, and wait
M. Le Roux and the Indians. At eleven we procecs
with fine and calm weather. At four in the alternoo
light breeze sprang up to the Southward, to which
spread our sail, and at half past five in the afternoon.
on shore for the night. We then set our nets. The |
lish Chief and his people being quite exhausted wit t
tigue, he this morning expressed his desire to remain bi
hind, in order to proceed to the country of the Beaver Ii
dians, engaging at the same time that he would return
Athabasca in the course of the winter.)
Friday 28. It blew very hard throughout the ni
and this morning, so that we found it a business of :
dificulty to get to our nets; our trouble, however,
repaid by a considerable quantity of white fish, trout,
Towards the afternoon the wind increased. | Teen fo}
men who had been gathering berries saw two moose-t
with the tracks of buffaloes and rein-deer. About sun
we heard two shots, and saw a fire on the opposite side
the bay; we accordingly made a large fire also, that
position might be determined. When we were all.
to bed, we heard the report of a gun very near us,
a very short time the a Chief preaemcaam

North-West Continent of America. 83

ed with wet, and in much apparent confusion in-
me that the canoe with his companions was broken
s; and that they had lost their fowling pieces, and
.of a rein-deer, which they had killed this morn-
“hey were, he said, at a very short distance from
and at the same time requested that fire might be sent
them, as they were starving with cold. They and his”
sea however, soon joined us, and were ee erry
mmodated with dry clothes.
Satur tly 29. I sent the Indians on an re party,
t they returned without success ; and they expressed
their determination not to follow me any further, from
heir apprehension of being drowned.
a Sunday 30. We embarked at one this morning, wad
from the nets a large trout, and twenty white fish.
sun-rise asmart aft breeze sprang up, which wafted us
M. Le Roux’s house by two in the afternoon. It was
date before he and our Indians arrived ; when, according
oa promise which I had made the latter, I gave them a
lentiful equipment of iron ware, ammunition, tobacco,
c. as a recompence for the toil and inconvenience they
ad sustained with me.
’ I proposed to the English Chief to proceed chi coun-
try of the Beaver Indians, and bring them to dispose of
heir peltries to M. Le Roux, whom I intended to leave
ere the ensuing winter. He had already engaged to be
t ingen ae in . the month of March ee with plenty
Pius.
Monday 31. - sat up all night to make the necessary ar-
ements fir the embarkation of this morning, and to
are instructions for M. Le Roux. We obtained some
rsions here, and parted from him at five, with fine,
weather. It soon, however, became necessary to
id ona small island, to stop the leakage of the canoe,
‘ich had been occasioned by the shot of an arrow under
water-mark, by some Indian children. While this bu-
was proceeding, we took the opportunity of dressing
fish. At twelve the wind sprang up from the South-
st, which was in the teeth of our direction, so that our
gress was greatly impeded. — I had an observation,
h gave 62. 15. North latitude. We landed at seven
€ evening, and pitched our tents.
September, Tuesday 1. We continued our voyage at five
he morning, the weather calm -~ fine, and passed the

a

a

84, Journal of a Voyage through the

Asle 4la Cache{about twelve, but could not perceive the
which was seen in our former passage. On pas the
Carrebeuf Islands, at five in the afternoon, we saw landto.
the South by West, which we thought was the oppor “
side of the lake, stretching away to a great distance. We
landed at half past six in the evening, when there »
thunder, and an appearance of change in the weather. Y
Wednesday 2. It rained and blew hard the latter part:
the night. Athalf past five the ram subsided, when
made a traverse of twelve miles, and took in a good
of water. Attwelve it became calm, when I had an
servation, which gave 61. 36. North latitude. At thr
in the afternoon there was a slight breeze from the West-_
ward, which soon increased, when we hoisted sail, and
took a traverse of twenty-four miles for the point of the
old Fort, where we arrived at seven, and stopped for the
night. ‘This traverse shortened our way three leagues:
indeed we did not expect to have cleared the lake in su
ashorttime. —
Thursday 3. It blew with great violence throughout 4 I
Be ae and at four in the morning we embarked, when v
did not make more than five mck in three hours witho
stopping; notwithstanding we were sheltered from t
swell by a long bank. We now entered the small rive
where the wind could have no effect uponus. ‘There we
frequent showers in the course of the day, and we enca
ed at six in the evening.
friday 4. The morning was s dark and psi never.
theless we embarked at five; but at tenitcleared up. We
saw afew fowl, and atseven in the evening went on shore”
for the night. | re We
Saturday 5. ‘The weather continued to be cloudy. /
five we proceeded, and at eight it began to rain very har
In about half an hour we put to shore, and were ies
for the remaining part of the day.
Sunday 6. It rained throughout the night, its aste
North wind. Numerous flocks of wild fowl passed to
Southward: at six in the afternoon, the rain, in some #
sure, subsided, and we embarked, but it soon retur
with renewed violence; we nevertheless took the adv
tage of an aft wind, though it cost us a complete drench
ing. The hunkets bal dacuek geese, and we pitched
tents at half past six in the evewiig: |

_ North-West Continent of America. ° 85

day 7. We were on the water at five ‘ds morning,
1 head wind, accompanied by successive showers.
‘e in the afternoon we ran the canoe on a: stump,
filled with water before she could be got to land.
hours were employed in repairimg her, and at seven
e evening we took our station for the night.
uesday 8. We renewed our voyage at half past four
in athick mist which lasted till nine, when it cleared away,
3 fine weather succeeded. At three in the afternoon
e came to the first carrying place, Portage des Noyes,
encamped at the upper end of it to a our niclintiie sy
of which were almost rotten. |
ednesday 9, We embarked at five in dhe: morning,
id our canoe was damaged on the men’s shoulders who
Posing it over the carrying-place, called Portage du
The guide repaired her, however, while the
er osm were employed in carrying the baggage. The
e was gummed at the carrying-place, named the Port-
dela Montagne. After having passed the carrying
s, we encamped at the Dog River, at half past four
the afternoon, 1 in a state of great fatigue. The canoe
again gummed, and paddles were made to replace
that had been broken in ascending the rapids. A
n was the only animal we killed throughout the day.”
hursday 10. ‘There was rain and violent wind during
night: in the morning the former subsided and the
er increased. Athalfpast five we continued our course
th a North-Westerly wind. At seven we hoisted sail:
in the forenoon there were frequent showers of rain and
i hk in the afternoon two showers of snow: the wind
at this time very strong, and at six in the evening we
anded at a lodge of Knisteneaux, consisting of three men
ive womenand children. ‘They were on their return
war, and one of them was very sick: they separated
the rest of their party in the enemy’s country, from
lute hunger. After this separation, they met witha
ly of the hostile tribe, whom they destroyed. They
! Sesgitcly'3 ignorant of the fate of their friends, but ima-
that they had returned tothe Peace River, or had
ee want of food. I gave medicine to the sick,*

This man had conceived an idea, that the eats wih whom he
been at war, had thrown medicine at him, which had caused his
ent complaint, and that he despaired of recovery. The natives
2 SO aaa that this idea alone was sufficient to kill _— Of

é

- for the last six months on the produce of their bow
_arrows. They appeared to have been great suffere

very cold throughout the day, with an appearance of sn

‘cold. At eight we embarked with a North-East. win

“new ese: Here, then, we concluded this voyage,
‘had occupied the considerable space of one hundred
‘two days. |

7 declared, that it would lose its effect, if he was not. sincere i

86 Journal of a Voyage through the, Ge.

and a small portion of ammunition to the healthy ; 7 whi
indeed, they very much wanted, as they had entirely |

their expedition. ‘
Friday 11. It froze hard diene the sitet and

We embarked at half past. four inthe morning, and ¢

tinued our course till six in the evening, when we lanc

for the night at our encampment of the third of June.
Saturday 12. The weather was cloudy and also vei

and entered the Lake of the Hills. About ten, the wir
veered to the Westward, and was as strong as we coul
bear it with the high sail, so that we arrived at Chepewy:
fort by three o’clock in the afternoon, where we found
Macleod, with five men, busily emploved in build

> '
y

rhis weakness I took advantage; and assured him, that if he
never more go to war with mee poor defenceless people, that:
cure him. To this proposition he readily consented, and on my § \
him medicine, which consisted of Turlington’s balsam, mixed i inv

promise that he made me. In short, he actually recovered, wa try
to his engagemenis, and on all cccasions manifested is gratitude t to mé.

ISLII ISLAMIST

/ im ft vf Fed
y ‘ v5 - “ y i rm

)

aaa

_ JOURNAL

“A SECOND VOYAGE, &.

CHAPTER I.

1e Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace River. State
the Lakes. Arrive at Peace Point. The reason as-

~ called the The Old Establishment. The principal build-
{ing destroyed by fire. Course of the river. Arrive at
another fort. Some account of the natives. Depart from
ence. Course of the river continued. It divides into
) branches. Preceed along the principal one. Land
the place of our winter’s residence. Account of its cir-
mstances and inhabitants, ‘c. Preparations for erect-
ga fort, Sc. ce. Table of the weather. Broke the
ermometer. Frost setsin. Description of birds.
ie. 10. i made every necessary preparation,
t Fort Chepewyan, to proceed up the Peace River. I
d resolved to go as far as our most distant settlement,
ch would occupy the remaining part of the season, it
ng the route by which I proposed to attempt my next
Overy, across the mountains from the source of that
'; for whatever distance I could reach this fall, would
proportionate advancement of my voyage.
1 consequence of this design, [left the establishment
Fort Chepewyan, in charge of Mr. Roderic Mackenzie,
panied by twocanoes laden with the necessary arti-
for trade: we accordingly steered West for one of the
ches that communicates with the Peace River, called
Pine River; at the entrance of which we waited for
other canoes, in order to take some supplies from
a, as [had reason to apprehend they. would not be
ie to keep up with us. We entered the Peace River at

88 Journal of a Voyage through the

seven in the morning of the 12th, taking a
course. Itis evident, that all the land between i
Lake of the Hills, as far as the Elk River, is fo:
the quantity of earth and mud, which is carried do:
the streams of those two great rivers. In this space
are several lakes. The lake Clear Water, whi¢h i
deepest, Lake Vassieu, and the Athabasca Lake, wh
is the largest of the three, and whose denomination i
_Knistineaux language, implies, a flat, low, swampy-coum
try, subject to inundations.. The two last lakes are noy
so shallow, that, from the cause just mentioned, ther
every reason to expect, that ina few years, they will
exchanged their character and become extensive fore
This country 1s solevel, that, at some seasons,
entirely overflowed, which accounts for the periodical
flux and reflux of fe waters between the Lighe of the }
and the Peace River. : “ ing
- On the 13th at noon we came fa tag: Pao Diactad fi
which, according to the report of my interpreter, the ri
Suniwes itsname; it was the spot where the. Knisten
and Beaver Indians settled their dispute; the real nar
the river and point being that of the land whiek: v
object of contention. |
When this country was fae titled . the
tenaux, they found the Beaver Indians inhabiting
about Portage la Loche; and the adjoining tribe vy
those whom they called slaves. They drove both tl
tribes before them; when the latter proceeded down
-tiver from the Lake of the Hills, in consequence of wh
that part of it obtained the name of the Slave River. -
former proceeded up the river; and when the Kniste1
made peace with nba this | place was settled to be
boundary.» i
We continued our voyage, and I did not’ find t
rent so strong in this river as I had been induced
heve, though this, perhaps, was not the period to.
correct notion of that circumstance, as well as
breadth, the water being very low ;so that the str
not appeared to me to be, in any part that 55 ha
more than a quarter of a mile wide. ag ru a
The weather was cold and raw, so as to. ren
progress unpleasant; at the same time we did not
our expedition, and, at three on the afternoon of
we artived at the falls. . The river at. this place ik

4

|

North-West Continent of America. 89

hundred yards broad, andthe fall about. twenty feet!
‘the first carrying place is eight hundred paces in
and the last, which is about a mile onwards, is
ing more than two: thirds of that distance. Here
ind several fires, from which circumstance we con-
ed, that the canoes destined for this quarter, which
the fort some days before. us, could not be far a-head.
weather continued to be very cold, and the snow that
‘fell during the night was several ivibhres. deep. | !
~~» On the morning of the 18th, as soon as we got out ot
the draught of the fall, the wind being at North-East, and
ong in our favour, we hoisted sail, “which carried us on
considerable rate agaist the current, and passed the
River before twelve o’clock; from thence we soon
along the Grande Isle, at the upper end of which we
ped forthe night. It now froze very hard: indeed,
dso much the appearance of winter, that I began to
‘tain some alarm lest we might be stopped by the ice:
1erefore set off at three o’clock in the morning of the
and about eight we landed at the Old Establish~

passage to this place from Athabasca ‘auiilag been
da. by M. Vandrieul, formerly in the Company’s
e, I did not think it necessary to give any particular
tion to it; I shall, however, just observe, that the
e in general from the Lake of the Hills to the falls,
esterly, and as much to the North as the South of it,
ence it is about West-South-West to this fort.
‘country im general is low from our entrance of the
9 the falls, and with the exception of a few open
covered with grass, it is clothed with wood. Where
anks aré very low the soil is good, being composed
a «2 of the river and putrefied leaves and ves
les. Where they are more elevated, they display a
ce of ape ovel sh clay, mixed with small stones. On a

vith the falls, and on either side of the river, there
said to be very extensive plains, which afford pasture

erous herds of buffaioes. Our people a-head slept
last night, and, from their carelessness, the fire was
municated to, and burned down, the largehouse, and
‘proceeding fast to the smaller buildings when we ars
| to extinguish it.

e continued our voyage, the course of the river being
th-West by West one mile and a quarter, South by;
M

90° Sfournal of a Voyage through #

East ene mile, South-West by South three mi
by South one mile, South-South- West two mil
four miles, South-West seven miles and an. half,
West one anit tae North-North-West two miles:a
South five miles and a quarter, South-West one
an half, North-East by East three miles oud ‘aachall,
South- East by East one mile... talk aoe Fak
We overtook Mr. Findlay, chili canoes, iadnagin
camped near the fort of which he was going. to take
charge, during the. ensuing winter, and made-every n C
sary preparative for a becoming appearance on oura
the following morning. Although I bad beem since,
year 1787 in the Athabasca country, I had never yet s
a single native of that part of it which we had now:reac
At six o’clock in the morning of the 20th, we landed
fee the house, amidst the rejoicing and firing of the |
ple, who were animated with the prospect of again ind
ing themselves in the luxury of rum, of. which the
been deprived si: om the beginning of May ;.as,itis a
tice throughout the North-West, neither to ‘sell or
any rum to the natives during the summer. There y
at this time only one Chief with his people, the other, t
being hourly expected with their bands: .and on the:
and 22d, they all arrived except the war Chief and fif
men. | As they very soon expressed their desireof t
pected regale, I called them together, to the num
forty-two hunters, or men capable of bearing.arms,
some.advice, which would be equally, advanta
them and to us, and I strengthened: my admonition
nine gallon cask of reduced rum, and a quantity of-tob
At the same time I observed, that: as I sheevaihiine 9
visit them, I had instanced a greater pe dees liber
than they had been accustomed to...) 4
The number of people belonging to this. establ
amounts to about three hundred, of which sixty are
ers. Although they appear. from their language to
the same stock as the Chepewyans, they differ from
in appearance, manners, and customs, as they have ad
those of their enemies, the Knisteneaux: they speak the
language, as well as cut their hair, paint, and dress lil
them, and:possess their immoderate fondness for li
and tobacco. This description, however, can be
only to the men, as the women are less adorned eve
those of the Chepewyan: tribes. We could not ¢

ane

"

North-West Continent of America. of

brie! ‘degree of s surprise, the contrast between the
decent , appearance of the men, and the nastiness
men. Jam disposed, however, to think that this
tance is generally owing to the extreme submis-
and abasement of the latter: for I observed, that one
e Chiefs allowed two of his wives more liberty and
iarity than were accorded to the others, as well as a
‘becoming’exterior, and their appearance was propor-
jably pleasing. I shall, however, take a future oppor-
y tospeak more at large on this subject. |
There were frequent changes of the weather in the
urse of the day, and it froze rather hard in the night.
e thickness of the ice in the morning was a sufficient
e for me to proceed. [I accordingly gave the natives
1 good counsel as might influence their behaviour,
amunicated my directionsto Mr. Findlay for his future
duct, and took my leave under several vollies of mus-
“onthe morning of the 23d. I had already dispatched
oaded canoes two days before, with directions to con-
their progress without waiting forme. Our course
; South-South-East one mile and an half, South three
“quarters; East seven miles and an half, vderitig gradually
tto the West four miles and an half. — South- Kast by South
three miles, South-East three miles and an half, East-
South-East to Long Point three miles, South- West one
mile and a quarter, East by North four miles and three
‘quarters, West three miles and a half, West-South-West
ie mile, East by South five miles and a half, South three
es and three quarters, South-East by South three miles,
-South-East three miles, Kast-North-East one mile,
‘there was a river that flowed in on the right, East
miles and a half, East-South-East half a mile, South-
tby South seven miles and an half, South two miles,
‘South-South-East three miles and an halk in the course
of which we passed an island South by West, where a ri-
ilet flowed in on the right, one mile, East one mile and
valf, South five miles, South-East by South four miles
an half, South-West one mile, South-East by East
‘miles ied an half, West-South-West half a mile,
th-West six miles and three quarters, South-East by
th one mile’and an half, South one mile and an half,
uth-East by South two milesy South-West three quar-
ts of a mile, South-East by South two miles and an half,
st by South one mile and three quarters, South two

92 Fournal of a Voyage through the

miles, Sauth-East one mile and an half, South-South
half a mile, East by South two miles and an half, 1
East three miles, South-West by West short 3
the establishment of last year, East-North-East four:
South-South-East one mile and three quarters, Sout
mile, South-East by South three quarters of a
So East by East one mile, South three. miles,
South-East one mile and three quarters, South by
four miles and an half, South-West three miles, Sout
East two miles, South by West one mile and an
South-West two miles, South by West four miles and
half, South-West one mile and an half, and South by I
three miles. Here we arrived at the fa of. the Yr
the Eastern branch appearing to be not more. tha
the size of the Western one. We pursued the latter,
course South-West by West six miles, and lanier ai
first of November at the place which was designed. to
my winter residence: indeed, the weather had x i
cold and disagreeable, that I was more than once.a
hensive of our being stopped by the. ice, and, after
required the utmost exertigns of which my men wer
pable to preventit; so that on their arrival they were-q
exhausted. Nor were their labours at an aie ah: :

aT ETS

in my power to toca ee, sustain el ina ceed re)
able manner. ait,
December. We found two men here who had been.
forward last spring, for the, purpose of squaring timbe
the erection of an house, and cutting pallisadens Say ti
round it. With them was the principal Chief of the p!
and:about seventy men, who had been anxiously. ewes
our arrival, and received us with every mark of satisfacti
and regard which they could express. If we might j
from the quantity of powder that. was wasted on out
rival, they certainly had not-been in want.of ammuni
Pel during the summer...
The banks of the river, from. the Jolley are.in. g
lofty, except at low, woody points, accidentally formed.
the manner I have already mentioned : they also displ:
ed, in all their broken parts, a face of clay, inter
with stone ;. in some places there likewise. appe -ared
mould.
In the summer of 1788, a small spot. was cleared:
Old Establishment, which is situated on a, bank.

North-West Continent of America. 98

| feeeabove the level of the river, and was sown with tur-
Ss, carrots, and parsnips. The first grew to a large
‘and the others thrived very well. An experiment
s also made with potatoes and cabbages, the former of
ich were successful ; but for want of care the latter fail-
di The next winter the person who had undertaken this
ition, suffered the potatoes, which had been collect-
seed, to catch the frost, and none had been since
ght to this place. There is not the least doubt but
‘soil would. be very productive, if a proper attention
$ given to its preparation, In the fall of the year 1787,
en . first arrived: at unm mee Rona. was settled

- “e years, pee) hs Guvicd as aie a (adhe Stir as I
saw in Canada.
addition to the wood which flourished below the fall,
soe produce the cypress tree, arrow-wood, and the
On either side of the river, though inv isible from
engined plains, which abound im buffaloes, elks,
s, foxes, and bears. Ata considerable distance to
7estward, is an immense ridge of high land or moun-
s, which take an oblique direction from below the falls,
e inhabited by great numbers of deer, who are sel«
m disturbed, but when the Indians go to hunt the bea-
-in those parts ; and, being tired of the flesh of the lat-
» vary their food with that of the former. This ridge
rs the name of the Deer Mountain.» Opposite to our
ent’ situation, are beautiful meadows, with various
als grazing on them, and groves of poplars irregular-
ttered over them.
tent was no sooner pitched, than I summoned the
is together, and gave each of hem about four inches
zil tobacco, a dram of spirits, and lighted the pipe.
§ they had been very troublesome to my predecessor, I
wmed them that [-had heard of their misconduct, and
come among them to inquire into the truth of it. I
also that it would be an established rule with me to
nem with kindness, if their behaviour should be such
deserve it; but, at the same time, that I should be
lly severe if they failed in those returns which I had
to expect from them. I then presented them witha _
tity of rum, which I recommended to be used with
etion; and added some tobacco, as a token of peace.
ey, in return, made me the fairest promises; and

eg

“OA . Fourhal of a Voyage through the

hhaving expressed the pride they felt on ee
their country, took their leave. © é
- [now proceeded to examine my situation; an
with great satisfaction I observed, that the two men 1
had been sent hither some time before us, to cut and squ
timber for our future operations, had employed the

vening period with activity and skill. They had for

soregeerie oan of pallisades of i: feet lon .

aniasiresh and twenty feet ; ‘they liad akin abd a divehié
feet deep to receive thein ; and had prepared t
planks, &c. for the erection Of an hender ort geil Ba

I was, however, so much occupied in settling m
with the Indians, and equipping them for their wi
hunting, that I could not give my attention to any of
object, till the 7th, when I set all hands at work to
struct the fort, build the house, and form store-hou:
On the preceding day the river began to run withice,
we call the last of the navigation. On the 11th we
South-West wind, with snow. . On the 16th the ice st
ped in the other fork, which was not above a league f
us, across the intervening neck of land. The wate
this branch continued to flow till the 22d, when it was :
rested also by the frost, so that we hada, passage acr
the river, which would last tothe lateer end of the sq
ceeding Apri: This was a fortunate circumstance, as
depended for our support upon what the hunters.
provide for us, and they had been pee wenrei by. the
ning of the ice from crossing the river. They no"
ever, very shortly procured us as much fresh meat
required, though it was for some time a toilsome busin
to my people, foras there was not yeta sufficient qua
of snow to run sledges, they were —— —_ necess
loading themselves with the nor sen fi

On the 27th the frost was'so severe viele the
workmen became almost as brittle as glass. Th
was very various until the 2d of December, when my
heit’s thermometer was injured by an accident, whit
dered it altogether useless. The following table,
fore, from the 16th of November, to this unfortunate
cumstance, is the only correct: account: wet base é
which I can offer. ott «| hi

a

‘ \

_ — North-WestContinent of Americal’ =O

| Date.

ma Wind.

| weather. a

‘iy Jour.
| below o.
| above o

| ape Wind,

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pls
Bf.
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emshaht? ae. b58
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wutiitee! gt D>. eb et
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= 265 4S 2 ests
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fo) w °

= so Sahaidlicd to ie comfort, and indeed is a Hi
_characteristic of civilized iis, I was under the ne-
of employing my judgment and experience in
eircumstances, by no means eppnester with

“ea caged. Lwas now among a use whe
o knowledge whatever of remedial application
- disorders and accidents to which man is liable
7 part of the globe, in the distant wilderness, as in
‘opled city. They had not the least acquaintance
that primitive iit which consists in an experl-

n yfound among uncivilized and savage nations. This
umstance now obliged-me to be their physician and
on, asa Woman with aswelled breast, which had been

6 Fournal of a Voyage through the i.

leoeened with flint stones for the cure of it, pr sented
self to my attention, and by cleanliness, pontine 3
healing salve, I succeeded in producing a cure. . One of
my people, also, who was at work in the woods, was at
tacked with a sudden pain near the first j joint of his t
which disabled him from holding an axe. On exan
his arm, I was astonished to find a narrowred stripe,
half an inch wide, from his thumb to his shoulder
pain was violent, and accompanied with chillines:
shivering. This was a case that appeared to be be
may skill, but it was necessary to do something toward:
lieving the mind of the patient, though I might be unsu
cessful in removing his complaint. I accordingly pr«
_ ed akind of volatile liniment of rum and soap, with wh
I ordered his arm to be rubbed, but with little or no eff
He was in a raving state throughout the night, and th
stripe not only increased, but was also accompanied
the appearance of several blotches on his body, and »
in his stomach: the propriety of taking some blood
him now occurred to me, and I ventured, from abs
necessity, to perform that opperation for the first
and with an effect that justified the treatment. The
lowing night afforded him rest, and in a short time he
gained his former health and activity.
~ Iwas very much surprised on walking in the woo
such an inclement period of the year, to be saluted

to be actuated by the invigorating power of a more §
season. Of these birds the male was somethingless
the robin ; part of his body is of a delicate fawn col
and his neck, breast, and belly, of a deep scarlet; the
are black , edged with fawn colour, and two’ white str.
running across them; the tail is variegated, and the:
crowned with a tuft. ‘The female is smaller than the mal
and of a fawn colour throughout, except on the neck, w
is enlivened by an hue of glossy yellow. I have no dc
but they are constant inhabitants of this climate, a
some other small birds which 1S one a: a —

SLL IL LIS

North-West Continent of America. 97

CHAPTER II.

R Episbed from the tent to the house. Build habitations for
> the people. The hardships they suffer. Violent hurri-
cane. Singular circumstances attending tt. The com-
mencement of thenew year. An Indian cured of a dan-
gerous wound. State af the weather. Curious customs
among the Indians, on the death of a relation. Account
ofa aquarrel. An Indtan’s reasoning on it. Murder of
one of the Indians. The cause of it. Some account of
the Rocky Mountain Indians. “Curious circumstances
“respecting awoman in labour, &&c. A dispute between
two Indians, which arose from gaming. An account of
‘one of their games. Indian superstition. Miuldness of
the season. The Indians prepare snow shoes. Singular
customs. Further account of their manners. The slavish
© state of the women. Appearance of spring. Dispatch
canoes with the trade to Fort Chepewyan. Make prepa-
rations for the voyage of discovery.

1792. | "4
edancierhin 29. tI THIS day removed. from the tent into the

use which had been erected for me, and set all the men
¢ Fhecin the buildings intended for their own habitation.
aterials sufficient to erect a range of five houses for them,
about seventeen by twelve feet, were already collected.
would be considered by the inhabitants of a milder cli-
2, as a great evil, to be exposed to the weather at this
rous season of the year, but these people are inured to
and it is necessary to describe in some measure the
ships which they undergo without a murmur, in order
nvey a general notion of them.

he men who are now with-me, left this ne in the
beginning of last May, and went.to the Rainy Lake in
canoes, laden with packs. of fur, which, from the im-
_mense length of the voyage, and other concurring circum-
stances, is a most severe trial of patience and persever-
ee: : there they do not remain a sufficient time for ordi-
-ftary repose, when they take a load of goods in exchange,
‘and proceed on their return, in a great measure, day and
hight. ‘They had been arrived near two monte and, all

N

98 Fournal of a Vi oyage through the

that time, had been continually engaged in very toilsome
labour, with nothing more than a common shed to prote:
them from the frost and snow. Such is the life whi
these people lead ; and is continued with unremitting ex
tion, till their strength i is lost in premature old age.” <7

The Canadians ood that the weather we had on
the 25th, 26th, and 27th or this month, denoted suck
we might expect in the three: succeeding months. On
29th, the wind being at North-East, and the weather c:
and cloudy, a rumbling noise was heard in the air like di
tant thnindler, when the sky cleared away in the Sout
West; from whence there blew a perfect hurricane, whi
lasted till eight. Soon after it commenced, the atmosphe
became so warm that it dissolved all the snow on
ground; even the ice was covered with water, and had
same appearance as when it is breaking up in the sprin
From eight to nine the weather became calm, but imm
diately after a wind arose from the North-East with eq
violence, with clouds, rain, and hail, which conti
throughout the night and till the evening of the next d
when it turned to snow. One of the people who winteré
at Fort Dauphin in the year 1780, when the small-pe
first appeared there, informed me, that the weather th
was of a similar description.

Fanuary 1, 1793. On the first day of January, 1 in ¢
formity to the usual custom, awoke me at the break of
with the discharge of fire-arms, with which they cong
tulated the appearance of the new year. In return, th
were treated with plenty of spirits, and when there is
flour, cakes are always added to their regales, which
the case on the present occasion. |

On aay arrival here ee fall, F found that one Ape the

Indeed, hae he was brown to me, his voune WwW
such an offensive nae, and emitted such a eters s

His friends had done every dines in their power to reli
him; but as it consisted only in singing about him,
blowing upon his hand, the wound, as may be well im
gined, had got iato the deplorable state in'-which I fo
it. Iwas rather alarmed at the difficulty of the case,
as the young man’s life was in a state of hazard, i

North-West Continent of Amertca. oo

» determined to risk my surgical reputation, and accordingly
‘took him under my care. I immediately formed a poul-
tice of bark, stripped from the roots of the sprace-fir,
which I applied to the wound, having first washed it with
the juice of the bark: this proved a very painful dressing:

‘in afew days, however, the wound was clean, and the proud
f ‘sh around it destroyed. I wished very fiche t in this state
of the business to have separated the thumb from the hand,

which I well knew must be effected before the cure déuldl
be performed; but he would not consent to that operation,
, by the application of the vitriol, the flesh by which
e thumb was suspended, was shr ‘velled almost to a
hread. When I had succeeded in this object, I perceived
at the wound was closing rather faster than I desired.
ne salve I applied on the occasion was made of the Ca-
dian balsam, wax, and tallow dropped from a burning
ndle into water. In heals IT was 80 Sa as that

d brought me the tongue of an I eliew Hoe was he finally
l igrateful “When he left me received the a ace

nom he departed, for my care oat him." I satay did
I t spare my time or attention on the occasion, as I regu-
larly dressed his wound three times a day, during the
course of a month.
___ On the Sth in the morning the weather was calm, clear,
and very cold; the wind blew from the South-West, and.
the course of the afternoon it began tothaw. I had al-
ady observed at Athabasca, that this wind never failed
- to bring us clear, mild weather, whereas, when it blew from
| e opposite quarter, it pr duced snow. . Here itis much
ore perceptible, for if it blows hard South-West for four
urs, a thaw is the consequence, and if the wind is at
orth-East it brings sleet andsnow. To this cause it may
attributed, that there is now so littie snow in this part of
= world. Theis warm winds come offthe Pacific Ocean,
uich cannot, ina direct line, be very far from us; the
distance being so short, that though they pass over moun-
ains covered with snow, there is nottime for them to cool.
__ There being several of the natives at the house at this
time, one of them, who had received an account of the
death of his father, proceeded i in silence to his lodge, and
began to fire off his gun. As it was night, and such a noise
Beingso uncommon at such an hour, especially when it

100 Fournal of a Voyage through the

was so often repeated, I sent my interpreter to inquire i
the cause of it, when he was informed by the man him
that it was a common custom with them on the death o
near relation, and was a warning to their friends not to.
proach, or intrude upon them, as they were, in conseque
of their loss, become careless of life. ‘The Chief, to wh
the deceased person was also related, appeared with
war-cap on his head, which is only worn on these solem
occasions, or when preparing for battle, and confirmed t
me this singular custom of firing guns, in order to expres:
their grief for the death of relations and friends.*. ‘Tt
women alone indulge in tears on such occasions ; the me
considering it as a mark of pusillanimity and a want of fo
titude to betray any personal tokens of sensibility or sorroy

The Indians informed me, that they had been to hunt
a large lake, called by the Knistenaux, the Slave Lak
which derived its name from that of its original. inhabi
ants, who were called Slaves. They represented it as@
large body of water, and that it lies about one hundred anc
twenty miles due Kast from this place. Itis well know
to the Knistenaux, who are among the inhabitants of the
plains on the banks of the Saskatchiwine river ; for for-
merly, when they used to come to make war in this couns
try, they came in their canoes to that lake, and left them
there ; from thence there is a beaten path all the way
the Fork, or East branch of this river, which was the ir
war-road. ut

Fanuary 10. Among the people who were now 7 hy :
there were two - ‘Rocky Mountain Indians, who declar
that the people to whom we had given that denominati
are by no means entitled to it, and that their country
ever been in the vicinity of our present situation. ‘Th«
said, in support of their assertion, that these people w
entirely ignorant of those parts which are adjacent to t
mountain, as well as the navigation of the river; that tl
Beaver Indians had greatly encroached upon them,
would soon force them toretire to the foot of these mou
tains. They represented themselves as the only realn
tives of that country then with me: and added, , that

* When they are drinking tngettien, they frequently present their ¢
to each other, when any of the parties have not other meansof p
ing rum. On such an occasion they always discharge their pieces, as
proof, I imagine, of their being in good order, and to determine
quantity of liquor they may propose to get in exchange for them.

North-W. est Continent of America. — 101

mtry, and that part of the river that intervenes between

lis place and the mountains, bear much the same appear-

mce as that around us; that the former abounds with ani-

‘mals, but that the course of the latter is interrupted near,

and in the mountains, by successive rapids and consider-

ble falls. These men also informed me, that there is
another great river towards the mid-day sun, whose cur-

‘rent runs in that direction, and that the distance from it is

‘not great across the mountains.

- The natives brought me plenty of furs. The small

quantity of snow, at this time, was particularly favourable

xr hunting the beaver, as from this anise those
animals could, with the greatest facility, be traced from
their lodges to their lurking places.

> On the 12th our hunter arrived, having left his mother-

Bas, who was lately become a oe with three small

children, and in actual labour of a fourth. Her daughter

‘related this circumstance to the women here, without the

‘. st appearance of concern, though she represented her

as in a state of great danger, which probably might pro-

ced from her being abandoned in this unnatural manner.

At the same time without any apparent consciousness of

her own barbarous negligence ; if the poor, abandoned wo-

“man should die, she would most probably lament her with

‘great outcries, and, perhaps, cut off one or two joints of

her fingers as tokens of her grief. The Indians, indeed,

“consider the state of a woman in labour as among the most

rifling occurrences of i corporeal pain to which human nature

a ‘is subject, and they may be, in some measure, justified in

‘this apparent insensibility from the circumstances of that

‘Situationamong themselves. Itis byno means uncommon

dae hasty removal of their camps from one position to

ther, for a woman to be taken in labour, to deliver

Mersclf in her way, without any assistance or notice from

her associates in the journey, and to overtake them before

_ they complete the arrangements of their evening station,

“with her new-born babe on her back.

I was this morning threatened with a very unpleasant
event, which, however, I was fortunately enabled to con-
trol. Two young Indians being engaged in one of their

_ Games, a dispute ensued, which rose to such an height,

| et they drew their ee and if I had not happened to

fave appeared, they would, I doubt not, have employed
them to very bloody purposes. So violent was their rages

Wy
ie

102 Fournal of a Voyage through the

that after I had turned them both out of the house,
severely reprimanded them, they stood in the fort for at
Ieast half an hour, looking at each other with a most v
dictive aspect, and in sullen silence. i
The game which produced this state of bitter enti
called that of the Platter, from a principal article of 1 i
The Indians play at it in the following manner. mis
The instruments of it consist of a platter, or dish, made
of wood or bark, and six round, or square, but flat pleces
of metal, wood, or stone, whose sides or surface are of
different colours. - These are put into the dish, and after
being for some time shaken together, are thrown 1 into. ‘the
air, and received again in the dish with considerable de:
terity ; when, by the number that are turned \ up of the same
mark or colour, the game is regulated. | If there should ,
be equal sohere the throw is not reckoned ; 5 if two.
four, the platter changes hands. re
On the 13th, one of these people came to me, and p
seHtedin himaelf achHows example of Indian superstiti
He requested me'to furnish him with a remedy that mnigl
be applied to the joints of his legs and thighs, of which h
had, in a great measure, lost the use for five winters. Thi
affitoteen he attributed to his cruelty about that time, when
having found a wolf with two Wwhelps 1 in an old Bea
lodge, he set fire to it and consumed them.
The winter had been so mild, that the swans had |
lately left us, and at this advanced period there was v.
little snow on the ground: it was, however, at this tim:
re and a half in depth, in the environs of the establis
nt below this, which is at the distance of about seve
eaphibs
On the 28th the Indians were now employed in mak
their snow-shoes, as the snow had not hitherto fallen i né
sufficient quantity to render them necessary. .
Fetruary 2. ‘The weather now became very cold,
it froze so hard in the night that my watch stopped ; a
cumstance that had never happened to this watch sinc
residence in the count
There was a lodge of’ badiane here, who were shich te
starving with cold and hunger. They had lately lost an
relation, and had , according to custom, thrown away
thing belonging to them, and even exchanged the fom
cles of raiment which they possessed, in order, a
sume, to get rid of every thing that may bring the dee |

1 \

North-Vi est Continent of America. 103

to tl eir remembrance. ‘They also destroy every thing be-
longing to any deceased person, except what they consign
the grave with the late owner of them. We had some
4 diff culty to make them comprehend that the debts of a
man who dies should be discharged, if he left a any furs be-
hind him: but those who understand this princizie of jus-
« ce, and profess to adhere to it, never fail to prevent the
appearance of any skins beyond such as may be necessary
a ‘satisfy the debts of their dead relation.

On the 8th I had an observation for the longitude. i
‘the course of this day one of my men, who had been so
Hime with the Indians, came to ian me, that one be
em had threatened to stab him; and on ee preferring a
mt moplaint to the man with whom he now lived, and to
-whom I had given him in ones he replied, that he had
‘been very imprudent to play and quarrel with the young
Tndians out of his lodge, where no one would dare te come
an and. quarrel with him; but that if he had lost his life where
it e ha ad been, it would,have been the consequence of his ’
ro) a folly. Thus, even among these children of nature, it |
al pears that a man’s house is his castle, where the protec-.
tion of hospitality is rigidly maintained.

The hard frost which had prevailed from the beginning
February, continued to the {6th of March, when the
ind blowing from the South-West, the weather became

‘On’ the 22d a wolf was so bold as to venture among the
dian lodges, and was very near carrying off a child.
Thad another observation of Jupiter and his satellites,
for the longitude. On the 13th some geese were seen,

| and these birdsare always considered as the harbingers of
a ring. On the 1st of April my hunters shot five of them.
This was a much earlier period than I ever remember to
lave observed the visits of wild fowl in this part of the
orld. The weather had been mild for the last fortnight,
id there was a promise of its continuance. On the “Sth.
the-snow had entirely disappeared.

At half past four this morning I was awakened to be
‘ormed that an Indian had been killed. I accordingiy
h astened to the camp where I found two women employed
in rolling up the dead body of a man, called the White
Partridge, in a beaver robe, which I had lent him. He -
~hadreceived four mortal wounds froma dagger, two within
the collar-bone, one in the left breast, and another in the.

104 ‘ae ournal if a Var yage ‘through the

aay who bad been my hunter crockaane ie: wit :
had fled; and it was pretended that several relations
the deceased were gone in pursuit of him. The hi:
of this unfortunate event is as follows :— A

These two men had been comrades for Hee ye: rs
the murderer had three wives; and the young man who
was killed, becoming enamoured of one of them, theh
band consented to yield her to him, with the reserve
power of claiming her as his property, when it should be
his pleasure. This connection was uninterrupted for ne:
three years, when, whimsical as it may appear, the hus.
band became jealous, and the public amour was suspended, —
The parties, however, made their private assignations, —
which caused the woman to be so ill treated by her hus-
band, that the paramour was determined to take her awe
by force ; ; and this project ended in his death. This is :
very common practice among the Indians, and gener:
terminates in very serious and fatal quarrels. In ius
quence of this event all the Indians went away in gre
‘apparent hurry and confusion, and in the cmd
one of them was to be seen about the fort.

men, sat is ea is arms; two thirdsof whom call
themselves Beaver Indians. The latter differ only fr

toms and manners of th Knistenaux. As I have ane
observed, they are passionately fond of liquor, and in -
moments of their festivity will barter any shiny they har
in their possession for it. Py
Though the Beaver Indians made their peace with |
pravletoa at Peace iMe as already mentioned, I

oF the ah aed ee ‘Beaver River: Fins hana they
proceeded West by the Slave Lake just described, on thei 4
war excursions, which they often repeated, even till

Beaver Indians had procured arms, which was in the y
1782. If it so happened that they missed them, they
ceeded Westward till they were certain of wreaking their
vengeance on those of the Rocky Mountain, who being
‘without arms, became an easy prey to their blind and sav.

ges i
ee i
a8

North-West Continent of America. 105

e fury. All the European articles they possessed, pre-
ous to the year 1780, were obtained from the Knistenaux
and Chepewyans, who brought them from Fort Church-
“hill, and for which they were made to pay an extravagant
merice, |
a As late as the year 1786, when the first traders from
Canada arrived on the banks of this river, the natives em-
“ployed bows and snares, but at present very little use is
“tade of the former, and the latter are no longer known.
They still entertain a great dread of their natural enemies,
“but they are since become so well armed, that the others
~fhow call them their allies. ‘The men are in general of a
comely appearance, and fond of personal decoration. The
‘women are of a contrary disposition, and the slaves of the
*“M™en: in common with all the Indian tribes polygamy is
allowed among them. They are very subject to jealousy,
“and fatal consequences frequently result from the indulg-
“ence of that passion. But notwithstanding the vigilance
‘and severity which is exercised by the husband, it seldom
happens that a woman is without her favourite, who, in
“the absence of the husband, exacts the same submission,
and practises the same tyranny. And so premature is the
_ tender passion, that it is sometimes known to invigorate
_ $0 early a period of life as the age of eleven or twelve
“years. The women are not very prolific; a circumstance
y hich may be attributed, in a great measure, to the hard-
$hips that they suffer, for except a few small dogs, they
alone perform that labour which is allotted to beasts of
‘burthen in other countries. It is not uncommon, while
“the men carry nothing but a gun, that their wives and
“daughters follow with such weighty burdens, that if they
Tay them down they cannot replace them, and that is a
“Kindness which the men will not deign to perform; ‘so that
“during their journeys they are frequently obliged to lean
“@eainst a tree for a small portion of temporary relief.
“When they arrive at the place which their tyrants have
‘chosen for their encampment, they arrange tie whole in
‘afew minutes, by forming a curve of poles, meeting at
_the top, and expanding into circles of twelve or fifteen
“feet diameter at the bottom, covered with dressed skins
‘of the moose sewed together. During these preparations,
‘the men sit down quictly to the enjoyment of their pipes,
“if they happen to have anytobacco. But notwithstanding
“this abject .state of slavery and submission, the wofnen
ee | a

a Fournal of a Voyage through the

have a considerable influence on the opinion of the men @ q
every thing except their own domestic situation, _ phe i.

These Indians are excellent hunters, and their e exercise
in that capacity is so violent as to reduce them in gener.
to a very paiats aPRea FSS, Their age is ofa vet

ple. "They are more vicious pail Sh don the! hat
wyans, from whence they sprang, though they do not a:

Sess their peAshncs 385 ner ee We FREY have the means:

ous, oy be bea are re a they become erra
beggars: they are, however, remarkable for their honest
for in the whole tr ibe there were only two women and
man who had been known to have swerved from that vu
tue, and they were considered as objects of disregard and
reprobation. ‘They are afflicted with but few diseases,
and their only remedies consist in binding’ the temples, |
procuring perspiration, singing, and blowing on the sit ¢
person, or affected part. When death overtakes any 0
them, their property, as I have before observed, is $

Canoe and destroyed ; nor is there any failure of Ts
‘tation or mourning on such occasion: they who are more
nearly related to the departed person, black their faces,
and sometimes cut off their hair; they also pierce their
arms with knives and arrows. The grief of the females —
is carried to a still greater excess ; they not only cut the od

hair, and cry and howl, but they will sometim Ce; with th

g

parate the nail from the hel and ie force back th
flesh beyond the first joint, which they immediately am-
putate. But this extraordinary mark of affliction is only
displayed on the death of a favourite son, an husband, «
a father. Many of the old women have so often repeat
this ceremony, that they, have not a complete finger r
maining on either hand. ‘The women renew their lame
tations at the graves of their departed relatives for a lon
succession of years. They appear, in common with
the Indian tribes, to be very fond of their children, b
they are as careless in their mode of swadling them
their infant state, as they are of their own dress: the c
1s laid down ona board, of about two feet long, coy :

yo! Go ar

North-West Continent of America. | 107

the moss being changed as often as the occasion requires.
ie chief of the nation had no less than nine wives, and
cl ildren i in proportion.
-) When traders first appeared among these people, the Ca-
_ nadians were treated with the utmost ive essa and atten-
tion; but they have, by their subsequent conduct, taught
the bnatives to withdraw that respect from them, ad bees
- times to treat them with indignity. They cifter very Lucan

: they profess of ‘any carnal domimunication ac their
‘women and the white people. They carry. their love of
raming to excess; they will pursue it for a succession of
. _ days and nights, and no apprehension of ruin, nor influ-
ence of domestic affection, will restrain them from the
"indulgence of it. They are a quick, lively, active people,
vith akeen, penetrating, dark eye; and ‘though they are
eery susceptible of anger, are as easily appeased. The
aales eradicate their based, and the females their hair in
very ‘part, except their heads, where it is strong and
black, and withouta curl. There are many old men among
‘them, but they are in general ignorant of the space in
~ which they have been inhabitants of the earth, though one
of them told me that he recollected sixty winters.
- An Indian in some measure explained his age to me,
y, relating that he remembered the opposite hills and
‘plains, now interspersed with groves of poplars, when
they were covered with moss, and without any animal in-
: abitant but the rein-deer. By degrees, he said, the face
of the country changed to its present appearance, when
the elk came from the East, and was followed by the buf-
faloe; the rein-deer then retired to the long range of high
Bis © nds. that, at a considerable distance, run parallel with
this river. ‘
oa On the 20th of April, I had an observation of Jupiter
and his satellites, for the longitude, and we were now vi-
“sited by our summer companions the gnats and musqui-
toes. On the other side of the river, which was yet covered
with i ice, the plains were delightful; the trees were bud-
_ ding, and many plants in blossom. Mr. Mackay brought
ome: a Pionch of flowers, of a pink colour, and a yellow but-
| sige encircled with six leaves of alight purple. The change
a the appearance of nature was as sudden as it was pleas-
ng, for afew days only were passed away since the ground

108 Journal of a Voyage through the, 4

was covered with snow. On the 25th thé river was clear
of the ice. — - Anes

I now found that the death of the man ellie the Whi
Partridge, had deranged all the plans which I had settled

with the Indians for the springhunting. ‘They had assem,
bled at some distance from the fort, andysent an embassy —
to me, to demand rum to drink, that they might have an
opportunity of crying for their deceased brother. It-would |
be considered as an extreme degradation in an Indian to ~
weep when sober, but a state of imtoxication sanctions 2
irreguiarities. On my refusal, they threatened to go to
war, which, from motives of interest as well as humanity,
we did our utmost to discourage ; and as a second message
was brought by persons of some weight among these peo=
ple, and on whom I could depend, I thought it prudent to ~
comply with the demand, on an express condition, that
they would continue peaceably at home. i:

The month of April being now past, in the early part of ©
which I was most busily employed in trading with the Ine
dians, I ordered all our canoes to be repaired with bark, ©
and added four new ones to them, when with the ©
furs and provisions I had purchased, six canoes were load —
ed and dispatched on the 8th of May for Fort Chepewyan, _
I had, however, retained six of the men who agreed to
accompany me on my projected voyage of discovery. | 1

also engaged my hunters, and closed the business of the
year for the company by writing my public and private dis-
patches.

Having ascertained, by various observations, the latin
tude of this place to be 56. 9. North, and longitude 117.
35. 15. West :—on the 9th day of May, I found, that my ©
acrometer, was one hour forty-six minutes slow to apparent

_time; the mean going of it I had. found to be twenty-two |
seconds slow in twenty-four hours. Having settled this —
point, the canoe was put into the water; her dimensions —
were twenty-five feet long within, exclusive of the curves ©
of stem and stern, twenty-six inches hold, and four feet
nine inches beam. At the same time his was so light,
that two men could carry her on a good road three or four
miles without resting. In this slender vessel, we shipped
provisions, goods for presents, arms, ammunition,
baggage, to the weight of three thousand pounds, and 2 an
equipage of ten people, viz. Alexander nT Jo eph

North-West Continent of America. 109

harles Ducette,* Francois Beaulieux, Baptist
angois Courtois, and Jacques Beauchamp, with
ns as hunters and interpreters. One of them,
, was used to beso idle, that he obtained the
ame of Cancre, which he still possesses. With
sons I embarked at seven in the evening. My
orp rpreter, with another person, whom I left here
of the fort, and supply the natives with am-
1 during the summer, shed tears on the reflection
dangers which we might encounter in our expe
while my own people offered up their prayers that
sis 1 ea safety from it.

PLLI LI IS L

(

110 | Fournal of a Voyage through the

CHAPTER III.

Proceed on the voyage of discovery. Beautiful s
The canoe too heavily laden. The country in a’
combustion. Meet with a hunting party. State of
river, ‘Fc. Meet with Indians. See the tracks of a “
and one of their dens. Sentiment of an Indian.

“ton of the “Bear fader, \ Appearanée of the co

State of the river. Observe a fall of tember. — Abu

of animals. See some-bears. Comein sight of ‘the
maguntains. The canoe receives an wujury and is repair
Navigation dangerous. Rapids and “pie Successic
difficulties and dangers.

May, 1793.2 RAT Pips f 3 .
Thursday 9. ‘ E began our voyage with a course So

by West against a strong current one mile and three q
ters, South-West by South one mile, and landed be
eight on an island for the night.
FE riday 10. The weather was clear and pleasant, chon
there was a keenness in the air; and ata quarter past
‘in the morning we continued our voyage, steering Sov
West three quarters of a mile, South-West by South |
mile and a quarter, South three quarters of a mile So
West by South one quarter of a mile, South-West
West one mile, South-West by South three miles, Se
by West three quarters of a mile, and South-West
mile. The canoe being strained from its having been
heavily laden, became so leaky, that we were obliged
land, unload, and gum it. As this circumstance toc
place about twelve, I had an opportunity of taking an
tude, which made our latitude 55. 58. 48.
When the canoe was repaired we continued our cot
steering South-West by West one mile and an half,
I had the misfortune to drop my pocket-compass in
water; West half a mile, West-South-West four
and an. half. Here the banks are steep and hilly, an
some parts undermined by the river. Where the ¢
has given way, the face of the clitls discovers nume
strata, consisting of reddish earth and small ston
mefi, and a greyish earth, below which, near th

wef if
W é

North-West Continent of America. 111

and the ground on which it spreads is covered witha thin
white scurf, or particles of a saline substance : there are
several of fhieas salt springs. At half past six in the af-
ernoon the young men landed, when they killed an elk,
s d wounded a buffalo. - In this spot we for aie our en-

i From the merce which we quanta, this morning the

fo]

t : eres distance: at every pee) or pause in
he rise, there is a very gently-ascending space or lawn,
Ww ich is alternate, with abrupt precipicés to the summit of
the 2 whole, or, at least as far as the eye could distinguish.
“This magnificent theatre of nature has all the decorations
which the trees and animals of the country can aff ord it:

intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks Ae buffa-
Joes: the former choosing the steeps and uplands, and the
latter preferring the plains. At this time the buffaloes
. attended with their young ones, who were frisking
about them: and it appeared that the elks would soon ex-

ibit the same enlivening circumstance. The whoiec coun-
try displayed an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a
. ossom, were advancing fast to that delightful appearance,
and the velvet rind of their branches reflecting the oblique
rays of arising or setting sun, added.a splendid gaiety to
the scene, which no expressions of mine are qualified to
describe. The East side of the river consists of a range
of high land covered with the white spruce, and the soit
birch, while the banks abound with the alder and the wii-
low. The water continued to rise, and the current being
proportionably strong, we made a greater use of setting
| les than paddles.

Saturday 11. ‘The weather was overcast. Withastrong
wind a-head, we embarked at four in the morning, and leit
ore fresh meat behind us, but the portion which had
been assigned to the kettle; the canoe being already too
heavily laden. Our course was West-South-West one
| nile, where a small river flowed in from the East, named

Quiscatina Sepy, or River with the High Banke. West .
half a mile, South half a mile, South-West by West three
uarters of a mile, West one mile and a quarter, South-

fest a quarter of a mile, South-South-West half a mile,

112 Yournal of a Vi oyage through the

and West by South a mile and a half. Here I took ¢
ridian altitude, which gave 55. 56. 3. North latitude. }
then proceeded West three miles and an half, West-Sout
West, where the whole plain was on fire, one mile, V
one mile, and the wind so strong a-head, that it occasi
the canoe to take in water, and. otherwige impeded
progress. Here we landed to take time, with the m
three altitudes, which made the watch slow, 1. 42. 1
parent time.
We now proceeded West-South-West, one ails
quarter, where we found a Chief of the Beaver Indiz
an hunting party. I remained, however, in my cano
though it was getiing late, I did not choose to encam]
these people, lest the friends of myshunters might disce
rage them from proceeding on the voyage. We, theref
a our paper but apes agi i ta cor =e

though I was not without some aroha respec
them. The Chief, however, and another man, as we
several people from the lodges, joined us, before we
completed the repair of the canoe; and they made
melancholy story, that they had neither ammMunitio:
tobacco sufficient for their necessary supply during. t
summer. I accordingly referred him to the Fort, w
plenty of those articles were left in the care of my in
‘preter, by whom they would be abundantly furnished
they were active and industrious in pursuing their ©
pations. I did not fail, on this occasion, to magnify th
advantages on the presi expedition perwaige .

ed conduct of fhe young men who were eee .
tohunt. The chief also proposed to borrow my
in order to transport himself and family across the :
several plausible reasons, it is true, suggested themse
for resisting his proposition; but when I stated to”

that, as the canoe was intended for a voyage of sucht
sequence, no woman could be permitted to. be €
in it, he acquiesced in the refusal. It was near twe

North-West Continent of America. 113

ht when he took his leave, after I had gratified him with
snt of tobacco. |

day 12. Some of the Indians passed the night beth
d I was informed by them, that, according to our
of proceeding, we should, in ten days, get as far as
rocky mountains. The young men now returned, to
reat satisfaction, and with the appearance of contents
t: though I was not pleased when they dressed them-
s in the clothes which I had given them before we left
Fort, as it betrayed some latent design.

At four % in the morning we proceeded on our voyage,
ering West three miles, including one of our course
terday, North-West by North four miles, West two
les and an half, Nort-West by West a mile and an half,
North by East two miles, North-West by West one mile,
i 1 North-North-West three miles. - After a continua-
n of our course to the North for a mile and an half, we
ded for the night on an island where several of the In-
ns visited us, but unattended by their women, who
ained i in their camp, which was at some distance —

be "The raadk on both sides of the river, during the two lace
ys, is very much elevated, but particularly in the latter
of it, and, on the Western side, presents, in differ-
t places, white, steep, and lofty cliffs. Our view being
fined by these circumstances, we did not see so many
animals as on the 10th. Between these lofty boundaries,
ie river becomes narrow, and in a great measure free
from islands; for we had passed only four: the stream,
indeed, was not more than from two hundred to three
uundred yards broad; whereas before these cliffs pressed
pon it, its breadth was twice that extent and besprinkled
with islands. We killed an elk, and fired several shots at
animals from the canoe.

© The greater part of this band being Rocky Mountain
Indians, I endeavoured to obtain some intelligence of our
Hitended route, but they all pleaded ignorance, and uni-
formly declared, that they knew nothing of the country
beyond the first mountain; at the same time they were
‘of opinion, that, from the strength of the current and the
Fapids, we should not get there by water; though they
did not hesitate to express their surprise at the —

: ve het already made.
ee » ig

SRW pS

at New eb eri, that he had not fi seen at up
of amoon. T a man had been at war on anothe
river beyond the Rocky Mountain, and described |

of which he directed me to peso ; fe thence, hes
there was a carrying-place of about a days march |
young man to get tothe otherriver. To prove the | tr
his relation, he consented that his son, who had. been 1
him in those parts, should accompany me, and he ac x
ingly sent him to the fort some days before my depart
but the preceding night he deserted with another y
man, whose application to attend meas a hunter, be
refused, he persuaded the other toleave me. Inow tho
it right to repeat to them what I had said to the chi
the first band, respecting the advantages which would,
derived from the v oyage, that the young men might be ¢
couraged to remain with me; as without them I s
not have attempted to proceed.

Monday 13. The first object that presented itself to
this morning was the young man whom I have al
mentioned, as having seduced away my, intended |
At any other time or place I should have chastised. hir
for his past conduct, but in my situation it was necessa
to pass over his offence, lest he should endeavour to
tise the same influence over those who were so essen
my service. Of the deserter he gave no satisfacto’
count, but continued to express his wish to attend
his place, for which he did not possess any necessary q!
fications.

The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of,
and the Indians pressed me with great earnestness t
the day with them, and hoped to prolong my sta
them by assuring me that the wimter yet lingere d
Rocky Mountains: but my object was to lose no tim
having given the chief some tobacco for a small quant
of meat, we embarked at four, when my ung men cc
not conceal their chagrin at parting with yom frien
so long a period as the voyage threatened to occupy-

I had assured them that in three moons we sh ul
to them, we proceeded onour course, West-Nor
half'a mile, West-South-West one mile and an ha

i

; North-West Continent of America. 115

+ North three miles, North-West by West two miles
an ‘half, South-West by West half a ‘mile, South-
uth-W est a mile and a half, and South-West a mile and
-. Here I had a meridian altitude, which gave 56.
- Northlatitude. ‘iii ‘ :
e last course continued a mile and an half, South by
est three quarters of a mile, South-West by South
ee miles and an half, and West-South-West two miles
d an half. Here the land lowered on both sides, with
icrease of wood, and displayed great numbers of ani-
s. ‘The river also widened from three to five hundred
is, and was full of islands and flats. Having continued
ur course three miles, we made for the shore at seven, to
the night.
t the place from whence we proceeded this morning,
rer falls in from the North; there are also several
ids, and many rivulets on either side, which are too
mall to deserve particular notice. We perceived along
e river tracks of large bears, some of which were nine
es wide, and of a proportionate length. We saw one
their dens, or winter quarters, called waitee, in an
and, which was ten feet deep, five feet high, and six
st wide ; but we had not yet seen one of those animals.
~The Indians entertain great apprehension of this kind of
‘bear, which is called the grisly bear, and they never ven-
‘ture to attack it but ina party of at least three or four.
“Our hunters, though they had been much higher than this
part of our voyage, by land, knew nothing of the river.
‘One of them mentioned, that having been engaged ina
| ‘war expedition, his party on their return made their
“canoes at some distance below us. ‘The wind was Nortt
throughout the day, and at times blew with considerable
ence. | |
he apprehensions which I had f: lt respecting the young
sn, were not altogether groundless, for the eldest of thom
me that his uncle had last night addressed him in the
lowing manner :—“ My nephew, yourdeparture makes
heart painful. The white people may be said to robus
yu. They are about to conduct you into the midst of
oe and you may never more return to us. Were
not with the Chief,* I know not what I should do,
he requires your attendance, and you must follow him.”
These people, as well as all the natives on this side of Lake Wi-
, give the mercantile agent that distinguished appellation.
hs

ee ae

(116 Fournal of a Voyage through the

Tuesday 14. The weather was clear, and the air shar
eho we embarked at half past four. Our course w.
South by West one mile and an half, South-West by !
half a mile, South-West. We hers found it. necessar
unload, and gum the canoe, in which operation we lost an
hour: ‘when.we proceeded on the last course one mile a
an half. I now took a meridian latitude, which gave
11.19. North latitude, and continued to proceed ’
South-West two miles and anhalf. Here the Bear Ri
which is of a large appearance, falls in from the.
West three miles and an half, South-South-West on

we encamped upon an island about seven in the evening. _
During the early part of the day, the current was not so

ing it became very rapid, and was broken by mated | :
islands. We were gratified, as usual, with the sight. of
animals. The land on the West side is very irregular,
but has the appearance of being a good beaver country;
indeed, we saw some of those ania os in the river. Wo 0
is in great plenty, and several rivulets added their strean 5
to the main river. A goose was the only articleof provi-
sion which we procured to-day. Smoke was seo, but at
a great distance before us. ae
Wednesday 15. ‘The rain prevented us faa continuing
our route till past six inthe morning, when our course
was South-West by West three quarters of a mile; at
which time we passed a river on the left, West by South
two miles and an half. The bank was steep, and the ct
rent strong. ‘The last course continued one mile and
half, West-South-West two miles, where a river flo
in, from the right, West by South one mile and an
West-North-West one mile, and West by North
miles. Here the land takes the form of an high ridge,
cut our course, which was West for three miles, at
angles. Wenow completed the voyage of this day.
Inthe preceding night the water rose upwards \ of
inches, and had risen in this proportion since our
ture. The wind, which was West-South-West, blew:
hard throughout the day, and with the strength of th
rent, greatly impeded our progress. ‘The river, 1
part of it, is full of islands; and the land, on the Sou
left side, is thick with wood. Several rivulets also
from that quarter. At the entrance of the last riv

North-West Continent of America. 117

passed, there was a quantity of wood, .which had been
wn by axes, and some by the beaver. This fall,
i piel not ree in the ephion of me people, by

Phe land to < right i is of a very irregular icine and
‘appearance, composed in some places of clay, and rocky
cliffs, and others exhibiting strata of red, green, and
yellow colours. Some parts, indeed, offer a beautiful
nery, in some degree similar to that which we passed
on the second day of our voyage, and equally enlivened
with the elk and the buffalo, who were feeding in great
‘numbers, and unmolested by the hunter. In an island
ay which we passed, there was alarge quantity of white birch,
ampere bark might be employed in the construction of ca-
t: ‘Thursday 16. The weather being clear, we re-embark-
ed at four in the morning, and proceeded West by North
three miles. Here the land again appeared as if it run
»across our course, and a considerable river discharged
litself by various streams. According to the Rocky Moun-
ain Indian, it is called the Sinew River. This spot would
be an excellent situation for a fort or factory, as there is
iplenty of wood, and every reason to believe that the coun-
try abounds in beaver. - As for the other animals, they
“are in evident abundance, as in every direction the elk and
_ the buffaloe are seen in possession of the hills and the plains.
Our course continued West-North-West three miles.and
an half, North-West one mile and an half, South- West by
West two miles ; (the latitude was by hee puatien 56. 16.
| ys ) North, West by North half a mile, West-North-West
three quarters of a mile; a small river appearing on the
d ht, North-West one mile and an half, West by North
halt a mile, West by South one mile aac an half, West
one mile; and atseven we formed our encampment.
i ‘Mr. Mackay, and one of the young men, killed two
elks, and mortally wounded a buffaloe, but we only took a
pe rt of the flesh of. the former. T hes land above ‘the spot
‘where we encamped, spreads into an extensive plain, -and
Geesches onto a very high ridge, which, in some parts,
Bpsents a face of rock, but is principally covered with ver-
ure, and varied with the poplar and white birch tree.
¥e 1e country is so crowded with animals as to have the ap-
pearance, in some places, ofastall-yard, from the state of
the ground, and the quantity of dung which is scattered

118 ‘Journal ofa Voyage through the

Over it. he soit is black and light. Bion this day saw
two grisly and hideous bears. deri ia
Friday 17. It froze during the hight sind he air was
sharp in the morning, when we continued our course West
North-West three miles and an half, South-West by
South two miles and an half, South- West by West
mile and an half, West three quarters of a mile,
South-West one mile and a quarter, and South-Wes
South one mile and an half. At two in the afternoon
rocky mountains appeared in sight, with their sum
covered with snow, bearing South-West by South:
formed a very agreeable object to every person “in
canoe, as we attained the view of them much sooner th i
‘we expected. A small river was seen on our right, and
we continued our progress South-West by South six miles,
when we landed at seven, which was our usual hour i f
encampment. Se
Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the side of tie
river, discharged his piece at a buffaloe, when it burst 1
the muzzle, but without any miehherans consequence: 5.
On the high grounds, which were on the opposite side
of the river, we saw a buffaloe tearing up and down with
great fury, but could not distinguish the cause of his im-
petuous motions ; ; my hunters conjectured that he had
been wounded with an arrow by some of the natives. We
‘ascended several rapids in the course of the ey > and | saw
one bear. | ‘
Saturday 18. Itagain ftoice very hard davai ahi re
‘and at four in the morning we continued our voyage,
we had not proceeded two hundred yards, before an acc
dent happened ‘to the canoe, which did not, how
employ more than three quarters of an hour to com
the repair. We then steered South by Westone mile
three quarters, South-West by South three miles, South-
West by West one mile and a quarter, West by South
three quarters of a mile, South-West half a mile, West Dy
‘South one mile, South by West one mile and an h
South-South-West, where there is a small run of we
from the right, three miles and an half, when the
struck on the stump of a tree, and unfortunately whe
‘banks were so steep that there was no place to unk
except a small spot, on which we contrived to dispos
lading in the bow, which lightened the canoe so as
‘the broken part of it above the surface of the we

\

| North-West Continent of America. 119

contrivance we reached a convenient situation. It
ed, however, two hours to complete the repair, when.
veather became dark and cloudy, with thunder,
ng, and rain ; we, however, continued the last
> halfa mile, and at six in the evening we were com-
by the rain to land for the night.
out noon we had landed on an island where there
eight lodges of last year. The natives had prepared
k here for five canoes, and there is a road along the
where they had passed. Branches were cut and
en alongit; and they had also stripped off the bark of
trees, to get the interior rind, which forms a part of
ir food.
The current was very strong through the whole of the
ay, and the coming up along some of the banks. was
ndered very dangerous, from the continual falling of
ge stones from the upper parts of them. This piace
ears to be a particular pass for animals across the river,
s there are pain leading to it on both sides, very ten

xmorants. The earth ‘also appeared. in several aa
) have been turned up by the bears in search of roots.
Sunday 19. It rained very hard in the early part of the
ht, but the weather became clear towards the morning,
en we embarked at our usual hour. As the current
eatend to be very strong, Mr. Mackay, the two hunters,
d myself, went on shore, in order to lighten the canoe,
d ascended the hills, which are covered with cypress,
but little encumbred with underwood. We founda
en path, and before we had walked a mile fell in with
erd of buffaloes, with their young ones ; but I would
suffer the Indians to fire on them, from an apprehen-
that the report of their fowling-pieces would alarm the
atives that might be in the neighbourhood ; for we were
t this time so near the. mountains, as to justify our ex-
ctation of seeing some of them. We, however, sent
r dog after the herd, and acalf was soon secured by
- While the young men were skinning the animal, we
d two reports of fire-arms from the canoe, which we
wered, as it was asignal for my return: we then heard
ther, and immediately hastened down the hill, with
veal, through a very ‘close wood. ‘There we met one

of the men, who informed us that the canoe was at asmail

Bak sh A 2.

126 ournal of a Voyage through the

distance below, at the foot ofa very strong rapid, ai
as several waterfalls arnt up the river, we shoulc
obliged to unload and carry. I accor ‘dingly has
the canoe, and was greatly displeased that so much
had been tbat: as I had given previous directions th
river should, be fnltuepile as long as it was practicable.
last Indians whom we saw had informed us, that at
first mountain there was a considerable succession of
pids, cascades, and falis, which they never attempted
ascend ; and where they always passed over land the leng
of aday’s march. My men imagined that the carryit
place was at a small distance below us, as a path appear
to ascend an hill, where there were several lodges, of
last year’s construction. The account which had beet
given me of the rapids, was perfectly correct: though b
crossing to the other side, I must acknowledge with s
risk, in such an heavy-laden canoe, the river appeared
me to be practicable, as far as we could see: the traver.
therefore, was attempted, and proved successful. W.
now towed the canoe along an island, and proceeded ™
out any considerable difficulty till we reached the extrem:
_of it, when the line could be no longer employed; and
endeavouring to clear the point of the island, the can
was driven with such violence on a‘stony shore, as to
ceive considerable injury. We now employed:every ex
ertion in our power to repair the breach that had be
made, as well as to dry such articles of our loading
more immediately required it: we then transported
whole across the pomt, when we re-loaded, and conti
our course about three quarters of a mile. ‘We could nc
proceed no further on this side of the water, and the
verse was rendered extremely dangerous, not only fr
the strength of the current, but by the cascades just be’ 0
us, which, if we had got among them, would have i
volved us and the canoe in one common destruction. V
had no other alternative than to return by: the same cout
we came, or to hazard the traverse, the river on this
being bounded by a range of steep, over-hanging
beneath which the current was driven on with re
impetuosity from the cascades. Here are several i
of sclid rock, covered with a small portion of v Yr
which have been worn away by the constant force
current, and occasionally, as I presume, - of i ice
water’s edge, so as to be reduced in that part to o

North-West Continent af America. 121

xtent of the upper surface; presenting, as it were, so
large tables, each of which was supported by a pe-
of a more circumscribed projection. ‘They are very
vated for such a situation, and afford an asylum for
e, which were at this time breeding on them. By
rossing from one to the other of these islands, we came
ith to the main traverse, on which we ventured, and
e successful in our passage. Mr. Mackay, and the
dians, who observed our maneuvres from the top of a
) a were in continual alarm for our safety, with which

scted: however, ‘the dangers that we encountered, were
ff oan augmented by the heavy loading of the canoe.

ee eae was almost equally violent with that from
mce we = just escaped, but the craggy bank pee

" etd Gascade we had hitherto seen. Here we un-
loaded, and carried every thing over a rocky point of an
it dred and twenty paces. When the canoe was reloaded,

, with those of my people who were not immediately
ployed, ascended the bank, which was there, and, in-
sd, as far as we could see it, composed of clay, stone,
a yellow gravel. My present situation was so ele-
id, that the men, who were coming up a strong point
yuld not hear me, though I called to them with the ut-
st strength of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part
its lading. And here I could not but reflect with inf-
» anxiety, on the hazard of my enterprize: one false
nD of those who were attached to the line, or the breaking
’ the line itself, would have at once consigned the canoe,
id every thing it contained, to instant. destruction ;
‘however, ascended the rapid 3 in perfect security, but
dangers immediately presented themselves, for stones,
h small and great, were continually rolling from the
, so as to render the situation of those who were
ging the canoe beneath it extremely;perilous ; besides,
were at every step in danger, from the steepness of
th ‘ground, of falling into the water; nor was my solici+
tude diminished by my being necessarily removed at times

m the sight of them.
n our passage through the woods, we came to an in-
sure, which had been formed by the natives for the

Pi Q

122 _Fournal of a Voyage through the oe

purpose of setting snares for the elk, and of whic
could not discover the extent. After we had travellec
some hours through the forrest, which consisted of
spruce, birch, and the largest poplars i had ever see:
sunk ws upon the river, where the bank is low, az
near the foot of a mountain; between which, and a]
ridge, the river flows ina channel of about one hw
yards broad; though, at a small distance below, it rn
on between perpendicular rocks, where it is not 1
more than half that breadth. Here I remained, in
anxiety, expecting the arrival of the canoe, and after
time I sent Mr. Mackay with one of the Indians dow
river in search of it, and with the other I went upt
examine what we might expect in that quarter. In ab
a mile and ahali I came to a part where the river was
the feet of lofty precipices, and presented, in the forn
rapids and cascades, a succession of difficulties to_
navigation. As the canoe did not come in sight wer
turned, and from the place where I had separated y
Mr. Mackay, we saw the men carrying it over asn
rocky point. We met them at the entrance of the na
channel already mentioned; their difficulties had
great, indeed, andthe canoe had been broken, but
had persevered with success, and having passed the c
ing-place, we proceeded. with the line as far as I
already been, when we crossed over and encamped on
opposite beach, but there was no wood on this side of
water, as the adj acent country had been entirely ove
by fire. We saw several elks feeding on the edge o
opposite precipice, which was upwards of three hu:
feet in height.

Our course to-day was about South- South-West
miles and an half, South-West half a mile, South-
by South one mile and an half, South by West half a:
South-West half a mile, and West one mile and an h
There was a shower of hail, and some rain from fi
clouds. I now dispatched a man with an Indian t
the rapids above, when the latter soon left him to
a beaver, which was seen in the shallow water on
side of a stony island; andthough Mr. Mackay, anc
other Indian joined him, the animal escped from th
pursuit. Several others were seen in they course 0.

€

North-West Continent of America. 123

ibaiost: every where so much elevated above the channel
‘of the river. Just as the obscurity of the night drew on,
the man returned with an account that it would be imprae-
| -ticable to pass several points, as well as the super-impend-
| -Ing promontories.

_ Monday 20. The weather was clear, with a sharp air,
and we renewed our voyage at a quarter past four, ona
_ course South-West by West three quarters of amile. We
now, with infinite difficulty passed along the foot of arock,
"which, fortunately, was not an hard stone, so that we were
| enabled to cut steps in it for the distance of twenty feet ;
from which, at the hazard of my life, I leaped ona small.
_ rock below, ‘where I received those who followed me on
“my shoulders. In this manner four of us passed and
dragged up the canoe, in which attempt we broke her..
Very luckily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us,
_ without which we could not have made a fire, as no wood |
was to be procured within a mile of the place. When the
“Canoe was repaired, we continued towing it along the
rocks to the next point, when we embarked, as we could not,
_ at present, make any further use of the line, but got along the
rocks of a round, high island of stone till: we came toa
small sandy bay. As we had already damaged the canoe,
“and had every reason to think that she soon would risk

much ereater injury, it became necessary for us to supply
ourselves” with bark, as our provision-of that material
article was almost ithacemed'e two men were accordingly
“sent to procure it, who soon returned with the ins iron
store.
Mr. Mackay, and the Indians who had been on. shore,
since we broke the canoe, were prevented from coming to
“us by the rugged and impassable state of the ground. We,
therefore, again resumed our course with the assistance of
poles, with which we pushed: onwards till we came.
beneath a precipice, where we could not find any bottom 3.
so that we were again obliged to have recourse to the line,
‘the management of which was rendered not only difficult
but dangerous, as the men employed in towing were
under the necessity of passing on the outside of trees that
“grew on the edge of the precipice. We, however, sur-
“mounted this difficulty, as we had done many others, and
people who had been walking over land now joined us.
ney also had met with their obstacles in, ‘ish the
untain. |

124° Sournal of a Voyage through the

It now became necessary for us to make a travers
where the water was so rapid, that some of the people —
stripped themselves to their shirts that they might be the
better prepared for swimming, in case any accident hi
pened to the canoe, which they seriously appreher
but we succeeded in our attempt without any other i
venience except that of taking in water. Wenow cai
a cascade, when it was thought necessary to take out par
of the lading. At noon we stopped to take an altitude
Opposite to a small river that flowed in from the left:
while I was thus engaged, the men went on shore
fasten the canoe, but as the current was not very stror
they had been negligent in performing this office; it prov
ed, however, sufficiently powerful to sheer her off, andi
it had not happened that one of the men, from absolut
fatigue had remained and held the end of the line, w
should have been deprived of every means of prosecuti
our voyage, as well as of present subsistence. Butn
withstanding the state of my mind on such an alarmi
circumstance, and an intervening cloud that interrupted
me, the altitude which I took had been since proved to.
tolerably correct, and gave 56. North latitude. Our]
course was South-South-West two miles and a quarter. —

We now continued our toilsome and perilous progres
with the line West by North, and as we proceeded the rz
pidity of the current increased, so that in the distance c
two miles we were obliged to unload four times, and carr
every thing but the canoe: indeed, in many places, it v
with the utmost difficulty that we could prevent her fror
being dashed to pieces against the rocks by the violence o
the eddies. At five we had proceeded to where the rive
was one continued rapid. Here we again took every thin
out of the canoe, in order to tow her up with the li
though the rocks were so shelving as greatly to incr
the toil and hazard of that operation. Atlength, howe
the agitation of the water was so great, thata wave stri
on the bow of the canoe, broke the line, and filled us:
inexpressible dismay, as it appeared impossible tha
vessel could escape from being dashed to pieces, and t
who were in her from perishing. Another wave, h
ever, more propitious than the former, drove her ou
the tumbling water, so that the men were enabled to bri
her ashore, and though she had been carried over

no RABI aan T aie men were,
" (ach: a state from their late alarm, that it

t only have been unavailing but imprudent to have

-any further progress at present, particularly as
ab men ‘ie as far as we could: bist was one nite

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126 — f a voyage through the =
3 | Eis...

CHAPTERIV, Aig ‘

Continuation of di if ‘culties and dangers. Dintonnie 2
the people. State of the river and its banks. Voh
chasmsintheearth. Dispatch various persons to di
ways across the mountain. Obstacles present them
on all sides. Preparations made to attempt the mo:
Account of the ascent with the canoe and baggage.
trees that are found there. Arrive at the rivers E
ordinary circumstances of it. Curious hallows 2
rocks. Prepare the conoe. Renew our progress u
river. The state of it, Leave some tokens of amit
the natives. The ager very cold. Lost a book of
observations for several days. Continue to proceedupt.
river. Send a letter down the current, in a rume-.
Came to the forks, and proceed up the Eastern br
Circumstances of it.

ee the discouragements, difficulties and d
gers, which had hitherto attended the progress of ou
terprize, should have excited a wish in several of
who were engaged in it to discontinue the pursuit, -
be naturally expected; and indeed it began to be
tered on all sides that there was no alternative but t
-turn. |

Instead of paying any attention to these murmurs, :
sired those who had uttered them to exert themsely
gaining an ascent of the hill, and encamp there for then
in the mean time I set off with one of the Indians
though I continued my examination of the river almo
long as there was any light to assist me, I could see no:
of the rapids and cascades; I was, therefore, perfect
ushed, that it would be impracticable to proceed any !
ther by water. We returned from this reconnoitring
cursion very much fatigued, with our shoes wo
and wounded feet; when I found that, by felling tr 7
the declivity of the first hill, my people had contrivec
ascend it. 3

' From the place where I had taken the altitude at
to the place where we made our landing, the river is
more than fifty yards wide, and flows between stupe

North-West Continent of America. {29

rocks, from whence huge fragments sometimes tumble
down, and falling from such an height, dash into small
stones, with sharp points, and form the beach between the
rocky projections. Ajong the face of some of these pre-
cipices, there appears.a stratum of a bitumenous substance
hich resembles coal ; though while some of the pieces of
a appeared to be excellent fuel, others resisted, for a con-
siderable time, the action of fre, and did not emit the least
flame. ‘The whole of this day’s course would have been
altogether impracticable, if the water had been higher,
-which must be the case at certain seasons. We saw also
several encampments of the Knisteneaux along the river,
hich must have been formed by them on their war excur-
sions: : a decided proof of the savage, blood-thirsty dispo-
ion of that people ; as nothing less than such a spirit
could impell them to encounter the difficulties of this
Imost inaccessible country, whose natives are equally
“unoffending and defenceless.
._ Mr. Mackay mformed me, that in passing over the
-mountains, he observed several chasms in the earth that
emitted heat and smoke, which diffused a strong sulphure-
a ous stench. I should certainly have visited this pheno-
“menon, if I had been sufficiently qualified as a naturalist,
% ‘ have offered scientific conjectures or observations
ereon.
— Tuesday 21. It rained in the morning, and did not
ease till about eight, and as the men had been very fatigued
and disheartened, I suffered them to continue their rest
till that hour. Sich was the state of the river, as I have
_ already observed, that no alternative was left us; nor did
any means of proceeding present themselves to us, but the
ssage of the mountain over which we were to carry the
10e as well as the baggage. As this was a very alarm-
“ing enterprise, I dispatched Mr. Mackay with three men,
and the two Indians, to proceed ina straight course from
the top of the mountain, and to keep the line of the river
‘till they should find it navigable. If it shoule be their
“Opinion, that there was no practicable passage in that di-
ection, two of them were instructed to return, in order to
‘make their report; while the others were to go in search
_ of the Indian carrying-place. While they were engaged ©
| in this excursion, the people who remained with me were
loyed in gumming the canoe, and making handles for
axes. AtnoonT got analtitude, which made our la-

123 ¥ournal of a Voyage through the o

titude 56. 0.8. At three o’clock had time, aps
watch was slow 1. 31. 32. apparent time. He

At sun-set, Mr. Mackay returned with one of the mei |
and in Avion two sara was followed a the psp ei

=

to their calculation, was a distance of three peti oF
two parties retiened by different routes, but they bo:
agreed, that with all its difficulties, and they were-of
very alarming nature, the outward course was that whi
must be preferred. Unpromising, however, as the z
count of their expedition appeared, it did not sink th
into a state of discouragement: and a kettle of wild rice
sweetened with sugar, which had been prepared for theit
return, with their usual regale of rum, soon renewed
courage which disdained all obstacles that threatened
progress ; and they went to rest, with a full determinatic
to surmount them onthe morrow. Isat up, in the hoy
of getting an observation of Jupiter and his first satelli
but the cloudy weather prevented my obtaining it.
Wednesday 22. At break of day we entered on the
traordinary journey which was to occupy the remaini
part of it. The men began, without delay, to cut a r
up the mountain, and as the trees were but of small growt
I ordered them to fell those which they found convenient
in such a manner, that they might fall parallel with +t
road, but, at the same time, not separate them entire
from the stumps, so that they might form a kind of of ra
ing on either side. The baggage was now brought fi
the water-side to our encampment. This was likewi
from the steep shelving of the rocks, a very perilous ©
dertaking, as one false step of any of the people emplo
in it, would have been instantly followed by falling he
long into the water. When this important object was
tained, the whole of the party proceeded with no si
degree of apprehension, to fetch the canoe, which, 1
short time, was also: brought to the encampment ;, aid
soon as we had recovered from our fatigue, we advanc
with it up the mountain, having the line doubled
fastened successively as we went on to the stumps ;
a man at the end of it, hauled it round a tree, holding 1
and shifting it as we proceeded ; so that we may b
with strict truth, to have warped the canoe up the
tain ; indeed, by a general and most Jaborious ex

_ North West Continent lof America. 129

? bets every thing to the summit by two.in the afternoon.
t noon; the latitude was 56. 0. 47 North. At five, I
he men to cut the road onwards, which they effected
bout a mile, when they returned.
e weather was cloudy at intervals, with showers and.
er. Ataboutten, I observed an emersion of Jupi-
second satellite; time by the achrometer 8. 32. 20.
by which I found the longitude to be 120. 29. 30. West
from Greenwich.
_ Thursday 23. The weather. was clear at four this morn-
fing, when the men beganto carry. I joined Mr. Mackay,
and the two Indians, in the labour of cutting a road. ‘The
ground continued rising gently till noon, when it began to
ine; but though on such an elevated situation, we
Id. see but little, as mountains of a still -higher eleva-
and covered with snow, were seen far above us in
ry direction. In theafternoon the ground became very
ven; hills and deep defiles alternately presented them-
stous. Our progress, however, exceeded my ex-
ation, and it was not till four in the afternoon that the
iers overtook us. At five, in a state of fatigue that
be more readily conceived than expressed, we en-

rge mass of ice and snow.

with plenty of wood, consisting of large trees, encumbered.
rith little underwood, through which it was by no means
icult to opena road, by following a well-beaten elk path ;
the two Micedeilinig miles we found the country. over-
ad. with the trunks of trees, laid low by fire some years
; among which large copses had sprung up of a ‘close
wth, and intermixed with briars, so as to render the
sage through them painful and tedious. ‘The soil in
woods is light and of a dusky colour ; that in the burn-
country is a mixture of sand and clay with small stones.
The trees are spruce, red-pine, cypress, poplar, whit¢
re. , willow, alder, arrow-wood, red-wood, liard, service-
ree, bois picant, &c. I never saw any of the last kind be-
fore. It rises to about nine feet in height, grows in joints
| Hithout branches, and is tufted at the extremity. The stem
is of an equal size from the bottom to the top, and does
‘exceed an inch in diameter; it is covered with small
sles, which caught our trowsers, and working through
: \ R

ed near arivulet or spring that issued from beneath,

Our toilsome journey of this day I compute at about
three miles ; along the first of which the land is covered

130 ‘fournal of a Voyage through: the

them, sometimes found their way tothe flesh. . The
are, the gooseberry, the currant, a and the several k
briars. ce
Friday 24. We continued our very laborious j
which led us down some steep hills, and through a wo
et pines. After much toil and trouble in “beari
anoe through the difficult passages which we encou
fe four in the afternoon we arrived ai the river, some hy
dred yards above the rapids or falls, with alk our bag
I compute the distance of this day’s progress to be ©
four miles; indeed, I should have measured the whol
the way, if I had not been obliged to engage persona
the labour of making the road. But after all, the I
carrying way, whatever may be its length, and T thi
cannot exceed ten miles, will always be found more
and expeditious than the passage which our toil and py
severance formed and surmounted. ‘
_ Those of my people who visited this place on the
were of opinion that the water had risen very. much
that time. About two hundred yards below us, the st
rushed with an astonishing but silent velocity, bet
perpendicular rocks, which are not more than thirt
yards asunder: when the water is high, it runs ovey
rocks, ina channel three times that breadth, where
bounded by far more elevated precipices. In the,
are deep, round holes, some of which are full of water
while others are empty, in whose bottom are small, r
stones, as smooth as marble. Some of these nasal
linders would contain two’ hundred gallons. Ata
distance below the first of these rocks, the channel w widen
in a kind of zig-zag progression; and it was really :
to behold, with what infinite force the water drives aga
the rocks on one side, and with what impetuous stren
it is repelled to the other: it then falls back, as it.
into a more straight but rugged passage, over which
tossed in high, foaming, half-formed nilhontiee as fara
eye could follow it. sai
_ The young men informed me that this. was the |
where their relations had told me that I should meet
a fall equal to that of Niagara: to exculpate them, h
ever, from their apparent. misinformation, they decl
that their friends were not accustomed to utter fals
and that the fall had probably been destroyed by tl
of the water. It is, however, very evident, ‘the

North-West Continent of America. 131

people had not been here, or did not adhere to the truth.
By the number of trees which appeared to have been felled
with axes, We discovered that the Knistencaux, or some
38 who are known to employ that instrument, had passed
is way. We passed through a snare intlosure, but saw
Ao animals, though the country was very much intersected
by their tracks.
~ Saturday 25. It rained throughout the night, and till
welve this day; while the business of preparing great and
mall poles, and putting the canoe in order, &c. caused us
remain here till five in the afternoon. Inowattacheda
I ife, with a steel, flint, beads, and other trifling articles
0a pole, which I iBrevttd. and left as a token of amity to
the natives. When I was making this arrangement, one
of. my attendants, whom I have already described under
the title of the Cancre, added to my assortment a small,
r ound piece of green wood, chewed at one end in the form
of abrush, which the Indians use to pick the marrow out
Of bones. This, he informed me, was an emblem of a coun-
try ‘abounding in animals. T he water had risen during
‘our stay here, one foot and an half perpendicular height. —
~ We now embarked, and our course was North-West
‘One mile and three quarters. There were mountains on
all sides of us, which were covered with snow: one in
particular, on the South side of the river, rose to a great
height. We continued to proceed West three quarters of
a mile, North-West one mile, and West-South-West a
quarter of a mile, when we encamped for the night. The

ak Sunday 26. The weather was. clear and sharp, and be-
ty een three and four in the morning we renewed our
Voyage, our first course being West by South three miles
Pts sak half, when the men complained of the cold in their
fingers, as they were obliged to push on the canoe with
the poles. Here a small river flowed in from the North.
e now continued to steer West-South-West a quarter
oF a mile, West-North-West a mile and an half, and West
) ‘miles, when we found ourselves ona parallel with a
ain of mountains on both sides the river, running South |
and North. _ The river, both yesterday and the early part
of to-day, was from four to eight hundred yards wide, and
ull of islands, but was at this time diminished to about
hundred yards broad, and free from islands, with a
nooth but strong current.. Our next course was South-

‘one mile, veered to South-West. through islands

omitted, as Llost the book that contained them. Iwas inthe
' sometimes indulging myself with a short doze in the canoe,
imagine that the branches of the trees brushed my book

LAG

river poured in onthe left, which was the most con

- conjecture. "Towards the bottom of these heights, w

182 Journal of a Voyage through the

,Westtwo miles, when we encountered.a rapid, z

‘encampment of the Knisteneaux. We now P
North-West by West one mile, among islands,
‘West by West three quarters of a mile, South-Sou

miles and an half, and South by East half a mile.

able that we had seen since we, had passed the mount:
At seven in the evening we landed and encamped. |
_ Though the sun had shone upon us throughout. the
the air was so cold that the men, though actively emplo
could not. resist it without the aid of their blanket c
This circumstance might in some degree be expe
from the surrounding mountains, which were cov
with ice and snow ; but.as they are not so high as to pr
duce the.extreme cold which we suffered, it must be mo}
particularly attributed to the high situation of the c
itself, rather than'to the local clonal ae of the mour
the greatest height of which does not exceed fifteen
dred feet ; though in general they do not rise to half
titude. But as I had not been able to. take an exe
measurement, I do not presume upon the accuracy of n

were clear of snow, the trees were putting forth t
leaves, while those. in their middle region still ret
all the characteristics of winter, and on their bidet
there was little or no wood. i
_ Monday 27. * The weather was he pee we . contin )
our voyage at the usual hour, when we successively {
several rapids and points to impede our progress. Ati
out latitude was 56. 5. 54, North. The Indians kill
stag ; and’one of the men who went to fetch it was ve
much endangered by the rolling down of alarge stone
the heights above him. ‘Shae
Tuesday 28. The day was very. cloudy. Them
tains on both sides of the river ip ples to have sunk

7s PP nina day, to die ba en the courses a my Hien

when I was in such a situation, whith renders the a C
days less distinct than usual. es gee

North-West Continent of America. 133

‘every thing but themselves. This part of the current was
‘not Gie-oken by islands ; but in the afternoon we approached.
some cascades, which obliged us to carry our canoe and
; blading for several hundred yards. Here we observed an.
encampment of the natives, though some time had elapsed
‘since it had been inhabited. The greater part of the dav
was divided between heavy showers and small rain ; and
we took our station on the shore about six in the evening,
_ about three miles above the last rapid. _
_ Wednesday 29. The rain was so violent throughout the
whole of this day, that we did not venture to “proceed.
_ As we had almost expended the contents of a rum-keg,
4 and this being a day which allowed of no active employ bo
“ment, I amused myself with the experiment of inclosing
- letter in it, and dispatched it down the stream, to take
its fate. I accordingly mtroduced a written account of all
sour hardships, &c. carefully inclosed in bark, into the
small barrel by the bung-hole, which being carefully se-
-cured, I consigned this epistolatory cargo to D the mercy of
e current.

ie Thursday 30. Wewere alarmed this morning at break
of day, by the continual barking of our dog, who never
ceased from running backwards and forwards in the rear
of our situation ; when, however, the day advanced, we.
discovered the cause of our alarm to proceed froma wolf
who was parading a ridge a few yards behind us, and had
been most probably allured by the scent of our smail por-
‘tion of fresh meat. The weather was cloudy, but it did
om ot prevent us from renewing our progress ata very early
hour. A considerable river appeared from the left, and
‘we continued our course till seven in the evening, when
we landed at night where there was an Indian encamp-
Tent. :

_. Friday 31. The morning was clear and cold, and the
"current very powerful. On crossing the mouth of a river
‘that flowed in from the right of us, we were very much
endangered ; indeed, all the rivers which I have lately
“seen, appear to overflow their natural limits, as it may
Fee: supposed, from the melting of the mountain snow..
The water is almost white, the bed of the river being of
_time-stone. The mountains are one solid mass of the
ame materials, but without the least shade of trees, or
| scoration of foliage. Atnine the men were so cold that
we landed, in order to kindle a fire, which was considered

~

ry

134 Fournal of a Poyage through the

ds a very uncommon circumstance at this season; a sm
quantity of rum, however, served as an adequate substi-
tute; and the current beirg so smooth as to admit of the
use of paddles, I encouraged them to proceed withou
any further delay. In a short time an extensive view
opened upon us, displaying a beautiful sheet of watel Py
that was heightened by the calmness of the weather, a and a
asplendid sun. Here the mountains, which were covered _
with wood, opened on either side, so that we entertaine: oe

the a uF soon leaving them behind us. When we Bie

band with pore forming cascades and sinbill island: :
To proceed onwards, we were under the necessity of
clearing a narrow passage of the drift wood, on the left —
shore. Here the view convinced us that our late hopes ;
were without foundation, as there appeared a ridge or
chain of mountains, running South and N orth as tar
the eye could reach. |

On advancing two or three miles, we sovisied at the fork,
one branch running about West-N orth-West, and the other ri
South-South-East.. If Thad been. governed by my own —
judgment, I should have taken the former, as it appeared i
to me to be the most likely to bring us nearest to the part —
where I wished to fall on the Pacific Ocean, but the old —
man, voi hr i have already goatee 2:3 as having been free

me not, on any beeouHt, to follow it, as it was soon lost 1
various ibtanthes among the mountains, and that there w is
no great river that ran In any direction near it ; but by fol>
lowing the tad he said, we eae arrive at a Sep :

islands. There was so ee appitvent py in the old id
man’s narrative, that I determined to be governed by i 1)
for I did not entertain the least doubt, if I could get i in to
the other river, that I should reach the ocean. oe
I accordingly ordered my steersman to proceed at onc
to the East branch, which appeared to be more rapid than”
the other, though it did not possess an equal breadth. —
These circumstances disposed my men and Indians, the
latter in particular being very tired of the voyage, toe
press their wishes that I should take the Western brat

oy when ria? poe ay the ee of bee n

¢

North-West Continent of America. 135

deed, the rush of the water was so powerful, that we
-were the greatest part of the afternoon in getting two or
three miles—a very tardy and mortifying progress, and
which, with the voyage, was openly execrated by many
of those who were engaged in it; and the inexpressible
‘toil these people had endured, as well as the dangers they
_ had encountered, required some degree of consideration ;
a | therefore employ ed those arguments which were the
"best calculated to calm their immediate discontents, as
_wellas to encourage their future hopes, though, at the
_ same time, I delivered my sentiments in such a manner
as to convince them that I was determined to proceed.
Cn. On the 1st of June we embarked at sun-rise, and to-
wards noon the current began to slacken; we then put to
re, inorder to gum the canoe, when a meridian alti-
“tude gave me 55. 42. 16. North latitude. We then con-
tinued our course, and towards the evening the current
_began to recover its former strength. Mr. Mackay and
the Indians had already disembarked, to walk and lighten
a he boat. At sun-set we encamped on a point, being the
first dry land which had been found on this side the river,
‘that was fit for our purpose, since our people went on
‘shore. In the morning we passed a large rapid river, that.
flowed in from the right.
Say. In no part of the North-West did I see so much aN
er-work, within an equal distance, as in the course of
his day. Insome places they had cut down several acres
of large poplars; and we saw also a great number of these
active and sagacious animals. The time which these
wonderful creatures allot for their labours, whether in
erecting their curious habitations, or providing food, is
the whole of the interval between the setting and the ris
| ing sun.

‘Towards the dusky part of the evening we heard several
discharges from the fowling pieces of our people, which
we answered, to inform them of our situation; and some
‘time after it was dark, they arrived in’ an equal state of
fatigue and alarm : ‘they were also obliged to swim across
~achannel in order to get to us, as we were situated on an
island, though we were ignorant of the circumstance, tilh
they came to informus. One of the Indians was positive
‘that he heard the discharge of fire-arms above our encamp-
“ment ; and on comparing the number of our discharges
idl theirs, there appeared to be some foundation for his

8

had proceeded fromus. The Indiaus were therefore
tain, ie “ Knisteneaux must be i in our vicinity,

136 -Fournal of a Voyage through the

alarm, as we imagined that we had heard two reports mi
8 they acknowledged; and, in their turn, declared
hey hac heard. twice the alibi of those which we kn

we raat ve had no reason to ieee the least me :
from them in this distant country. Though I didnot b
lieve that circumstance, or that any of the natives could
in possession of fire-arms, I thought it right, at.all event
we should be prepared. Our fusees were, therefore, prin
ed and loaded, and having extinguished our fire, each «
*fiok lis: station at the sae ora ee, where we passed
uneasy and restless night.
The succeeding morning being lebs nisl pleasant, v
proceeded at an early hour against a rapid current, inte
sected by islands. — “About eight we passed two lar
trees, whose roots having been undermined by the currer
had recently fallen into the river; and, in my opinio
the crash of their fall had occasioned the noise wh
caused our late alarm. In this manner the water rava
the islands in these rivers, and by driving down pg
quantities of wood, forms the foundations of others. ”
men were so oppressed with fatigue, that it was necess:
they should encamp at six in the afternoon. We, t
fore, landed on a sandy island, which is a very uncom
object, as the greater part of the islands consist of a botto
of round stones and gravel, covered from three to ten fe
with mud and old driit-wood. Beaver-work was as
quently seen as on the preceding day. |
On the 3d of June we renewed our voyage with ste:
ing sun. At noon I obtained a meridian altitude, wh
gave 55. 22. 3. North latitude. I also took time, and
watch was slow 1. 30, 14. apparent time. Accor

to my calculation, this place is about twenty-five
South-East of the fork.* ie |

, ‘ 3 % ae we ¥
* T shall now ranese with my same regularity, which, as 1 |

ready mentioned, has been,.for some days, suspended, from the

my book of observation.

sat

, AOL LL AO IF

North-West Continent of America. 137
ae
-.. RA CHAPTER V.

Continue our voyage. Heavy fog. The water rises. Suc
cession of courses. Progressive account of this branch.
at Leave the cance to proceed, and ascend an hillto recon»
notre. Climb a tree to extend my view of the country.

Returntotheriver. The canoe not arrived. Goin search

ofit. Extreme heat, musquitoes, Sc. Increasing anxe

_aety respecting the canoe. It at length appears. Violent

, storm. Circumstances of our progress. Forced to hau

"the canoe up the stream by the branches of trees. Succes»

sion of courses. Wild parsnips along the river. Expect

6; to meet with natives. Courses continued. Fall in with

some natives. Our intercourse with them. Account of

their dress, arms, utensils, manners, &c. New —
“ch pend and difficulties Mata themselves.

Teves 2W: embarked this Ae g at four, in a very
heavy fog.. The water had been continually rising, and,
mm many places, overflowed its banks. The current also
‘was so strong, that our progress was very tedious, and
re Our course was

No hh, a all of a halle, Southeast halfa are South-
East by South a quarter of a mile, South-East half a mile,
N forth-East by East half a mile, North-North-East three -
: g larters of a mile, to South by East one mile and an half,
We could not find a place fit for an encampment, till nine
at Bestic, ‘when we landed ona bank of gravel, of which
oat more appeared above water than the spot Wwe occu
ie
? Wednesday 5. This morning we found our canoe and
_ baggage in the water, which had continued rising during
the night. We then gummed the canoe, as we arrived at
too late an hour to perform that operation on the preceding

16 Journal of a Voyage through the

evening. This necessary business bemg completed, we
traversed to the North shore, where I disembarked with
Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, in order to ascend an ad-—
jacent mountain, with the a of obtaining a view of t i,
interior part of the country. | I directed my people to pros
ceed with all possible diligence, and that, if they: met with -
any accident, or found my return necessary, they should —
fire two guns. They also understood, that when ‘they
should hear the same signal from me, ‘they: were to ane
swer, and wait for me, if l were behind them. sis iy
When we had ascended to the summit of the hill, we
found that it extended onwards in an even, level country},
so that, encumbered as we were, with the thick wood, no
distant view could be obtained ; [therefore climbed a very
lofty tree, from whose top I discerned; on the right, a ridge
‘of mountains covered with snow, Benet about Nort rthe
‘West; from thence another ridge of high land, whereon
no snow. was visible, stretched towards the. Sena: be (
tween which, and the snowy hills on the East side, there :
appeared to be an opening, which we determined to be the
course of the river. ae:
Having obtained all the satisfaction that the nature é
the place would admit, we proceeded forward to overtake
the canoe, and after a warm walk, came down upon the
river, when we discharged our pieces twice, but received
no answering signal. I was of opinion, that the canoe was"
before us, while the Indians entertained an opposite notion.
tr; however, crossed another point of land, and came eat 7
eo chaewaterteide® aMONL eed! Here ee Hae long view of
the river, which circumstance excited, in my mind, sor me
doubts of my former sentiments. We repeated our signals,
but without any return; and as every moment now ‘in-
creased my anxiety, I left Mr. Mackay and one of the
Indians at this spot, to make a large fire, and send branches.
adrift down the current, as notices of our situation, ifthe
canoe was behind us ; and proceeded with the other Indian —
across a very long point, where the river makes a ‘consi-
derable bend, in order that I might be satisfied if the canoe
was a-head: Having been accustomed, for the last fort-
night to very cold weather, I found the heat of this day
almost insupportable, as our way lay over a dry sane ,
_ which was relieved by no shade, but such as a few scatter-
ed cypresses could afford us. About twelve we arrived
once more at the river, and the discharge of our pieces Was

it _ North-West Continent of America. 139

as unsuccessful as ithad hithertobeen. The water rushed
before us with uncommon velocity; and we also tried the
ment of sending fresh branches downit. ‘To add to
disagreeableness of our situation, the gnats and mus-
es appeared in swarms to torment us. When we re-
; ’ ned to our companions, we found that they had not
been contented with remaining in the position where I had
left them, but had been three or four miles down the river,
but were come back to their station, without having made
oy discovery of the people on the water.

Various, very unpleasing conjectures at once perplexed
and distressed us. The Indians, who are inclined to
Magnify evils of any and every kind, had at once con-
‘signed the canoe and every one on board i it to the bottom ;
-and were already settling a plan to return upon a raft, as
well as calculating the number of nights that would. be res
quired to reach their home. As for myself, it will be
easily believed, that my mind was in a state of extreme
agitation: and the imprudence of my conduct in leaving
‘the people, in such a situation of danger and toilsome ex-
ertion, added a very painful mortification to: the severe
‘apprehensions I already suffered: it was an act of indis-
retion which might have put an end to the voyage that I
had so much at heart, and compelled me at length to sub-
mit to the scheme which my hunters had already formed
for our return.
pen At half past six in the evening, Mr. Mackay, and the
Cancre set off to proceed down the river, as far as they
could before the night came on, and to continue their jour-
ney in the morning to the place where we had encamped
the preceding evening. Ialso proposed to make my ex-
-cursion upwards; and, if we both failed of success in
‘meeting the canoe, it was agreed that we should return to
ahe place where we now separated.

In this situation we had wherewithal to drink in plenty,
but with solid food we were totally unprovided. We had
‘mot seen even a partridge throughout the day, and the
tracks of rein-deer that we had discovered, were of an
old date. We were, however, preparing to make a bed
of the branches of trees, where we should have had no
other canopy than that afforded us by the heavens, open
“we heard a shot, and soon after another, which was th
‘notice agreed upon, if Mr. Mackay and the Indian cbuuled
see the canoe ;. that fortunate. circumstance was also con

iL

ee

at

140 — <Fournal of a Voyage through the =
firmed by a return of the signal from the people. I way
however, so fatigued from the heat of the day, as wella
incommoded from drinking so much cold water, that 5
did not wish to remove till the following morning ;, but
the Indian made such bitter complaints of cold and hun.
ger which he suffered, that I complied with his —_
tions to depart ; and it was almost dark when we reacl
the canoe, barefooted, and drenched with rain. Butth
inconveniences affected me very little, when I ne
self once more surrounded with my people. They ims —
formed me, that the canoe had been broken; and that
they had this day experienced much greater toil and hards
ships than on any former occasion. I thought it prudent —
to affect a belief of every representation that they made,
and-even to comfort each of them with a consolat
dram: for, however difficult the passage might have be
it was too short to have occupied the whole day, if neg
had not relaxed in their exertions. The rain was accoms
panied with thunder and lightning. Br a:
It appeared from the various encampments which we
had seen, and from sveral paddles we had found, that x
natives frequent this part of the country at the latter end
of the summer and the fall. The course to day was
nearly East-South-East two miles and an half, South by
West one mile, South-South-East one mile and an half,
East two miles, and South-East by South one mile. ~ of
Thursday 6. At half past four this morning we c
tinued our voyage, our courses being South-East by South.
one mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, South=

East by East twomiles. The whole of this distance we |

proceeded by hauling the canoe from branch to branchy

The current was so strong, that it was impossible to stem _

it with the paddies; the depth was too great to receive ‘
any assistance from the poles, and the bank of the rivex
was so closely lined with willows and other trees, that it
was impossible to employ the line. As it was past twelve”

before we could find a place that would allow of our land=*

ing, I could not get a meridian altitude. We occupied
the rest of the day in repairing the canoe, drying” our
clothes, and making paddles and poles to replace those
which had been broken or lost. ak
Friday 7. The morning was clear nat calm ; and sin e
we had been at this station the water had risen two inches; —
80 that the current became still stronger ;. and its velocity

North-West Continent of America. 144

Ahad already been so great as to justify our despair in get-
ting up it, if we had not been so long accustomed to sur-
mount it. I last night observed an emersion of Jupiter’s
firs ‘satellite, but inadvertently went to bed, without com-
a itt: ing the exact time to. writing: if my memory 1s cor-
‘rect, it was 8. 18. 10. by the time-piece. ‘Lhe canoe,
which had been little better than a wreck, being now re-
paired, we proceeded Easttwo miles and a quarter, South-
South- ‘East half a mile, South-East a quarter of a mile,
when we landed to take an altitude for time. We con-
tinued our route at South-East by East three quarters of a
mile, and landed again to determine the latitude, which is
Tes. 2) 4. To this I add, 2. 45. Southing, ‘whieh will
make the place of taking altitude for time 55. 5. 36. with
which I find that my time-piece was slow 1. 32. 23. appa-'
nt time ; and made the longitude obtained 122. 35. 50,
Vest of Grechivich.
» From this place we proceeded East by South four miles
and an half, East-South-East one mile and an half, in
which space there falls in a small river from the East ; East
alfa mile, South-East a mile and an half, East a quarter
ofa mile, and encamped at seven o clock. - Mr. Mackay
and the hunters walked the greatest part of the day, and in
the course of their excursion killed a porcupine. * Here
Fad found the bed of a very large bear quite fresh. Dur-
ing the day several Indian encampments were seen, which
were of alate erection. The current had also lost some
Of its impetuosity during the greater part of the day.
_ Saturday 8. Itrained and thundered through the night,
and at four in the morning we again encountered the cur-
‘rent. Our course was East a quarter of a mile, round to
‘South by East along a very high, white, sandy bank on the
East shore, three quarters of a mile, South-South-East a:
ter of a mile, South-South-West a quarter of a mile,
BowtiSouts East one mile and a quarter, South-East two
tniles, with a slack current ; South-East by East two miles
and a quarter, East ’a quarter of a mile, South-South-East
“aquarter of a mile, South-East by South four miles and
ng seg South-East one mile and an half, South-South-

ee We had been oie to it our hunters with sitting idle in
the canoe, lest their being compelled to share in the labour of navi-
gating it should disgust and drive them from us. We, therefore, em-
_ ployed them as much as — on shore, as well to isan provi-
“Bions as to lighten-the canoce.. '

142. - Yournal of a Voyage through the

Westhalf a mile, East- North-East half a mile, East-Souths —
East a quarter af a mile, South-East by Sonths one mile, |
South-East by East half a mile, East by South three
quarters of a mile, when the mountains were in full view
in this direction, winied Eastward. For the three last days. ;
we could only. see them at short intervals and long dis<_
tances; but till then, they were continually in sight on |
either side, from our entrance into the fork. Those to the |
leit were at no great distance from us. © ;
For the last two. days we had been. angiously | looking
out for the carrying- -place, but could not discover it, and
our only hope was in such information as we should bé able
to procure from the natives. . All that remained for us to —
do, was to push forwards till the river should be no longer
navigable: it had now, indeed, overflowed its banks, so
that it-was eight at night before we could discover a ~~ i
to encamp. Having found plenty of wild parsnips, we
gathered the tops, and boiled them with pemmican for our
supper. =. - De im A
Sunday 9. Vhe rain of this morning terminated in an
heavy mist at half past five, when we embarked and steer-
ed South-East one mile and an half, when it veered North.
North-East halfa mile, South-East three quarters of a mile,
East by South three quarters of a mile, East-South-Easta_
quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mil
South-East by East one mile, North-East by Easthalfa_
mile, South-East by East halta mile, South-East by South
three quarters of a mile,South-East three quarters of a miley
East by South halfa eailes South-East by East half a mile,
East-North-East three quarters of a mile, when it veered
to South-South-East half a mile, then back to East (when
a blue mountain, clear of snow, appeared a-head) one mile
and an half; North-East by East half a mile, East :
North one mile, when it veered to South-East halfa mile,
then on to North-West three quarters of a mile, and. back
to North-East by East halfa mile, South by West a quars _
ter of a mile, North-East by East to North-North-East
half a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, and. East
by North half aumiles) here we perceived a smell of fires
and in a short time heard people in the woods, as if 1 in é
state of great confuston, which was occasioned, as we
afterwards understood, by their discovery of us. At the
same time this unexpected circumstance produced some
little discomposure among ourselves, as our arms. were

North-West Continent of America. 143

not i ina state of preparation, and we were asyet unable to
“ascertain the number of the party. I considered, that if
there were but few, it would be needless to pursue them: 2S
it would not be probable that we should overtake them in
hese thick woods ; and if they were numercus, it would
ye an act of great imprudence to make the att empt, at least
during their presentalarm. Itherefore ordered my | people
to strike off to the opposite side, that we might see if any ,
‘of them had sufficient courage to remain ; bat! betore we
ere half over the river, which, in this part, is not more
a an hundred yards wide, two men ¢ appear ed on a rising
ground over against us, livtadishing their spears, display-
ing their bows “and at rows, and accompanying their hostile
gestures with loud vociferations. My interpreter did not
hesitate to assure them, that they might dispel their ap-
prehensions, as we were etiite people, who meditated no in-
jury, but cba on the contrary, desirous of demonstrating
every mark of kindness and friendship. ‘They did not,
however, seem disposed to confide in our declarations, ard
actually threatened, if we came over before they were more
fully satisfied of our peaceable intentions, that they would
discharge their arrowsat us. This was a decided kind of
conduct which I didnot expect ; at the same time I readi-
ly y complied with their proposition, and after some time
had passed in hearing and answering their questions, they
Risented to our Cates. though not without betraying
very evident symptoms of fearand distrust. They, how-
ever, laid aside their weapons, and when I stepped for-
ward and took each of them by the hand, one of them, but
with a very tremulous action, drew his knife from his
sleeve, and presented it to me as a mark of his submission
to my willand pleasure. Onour first hearing the noise of
these people in the woods, we displayed our flag, which
was now shown to them as a token of friendship. ‘They
examined us, and every thing about us, with a minute and
suspicious attention. T hey had heard, indeed, of white
- Men, but this was the first time that they had ever seen an
human being of a complexion different from their own:
The party had been here but a few hours; nor had they
yet erected their sheds; and, except the two men now
with us, they had all fled, leaving their little property be-
_hindthem. To those which had given us such a proof of
weir confidence, we paid the most conciliating attentions

in our power. One of oe I sent to recal his p soya and

are

144, Yournal of a Voyage through the.

the other, for very obvious reasons, | we kept with us.
— mean time the canoe was uploaded, - necess

Hinaition es d-with us, as to ibe ‘all fhe Hheellield whi
we imagined might be obtained fromthem. In fact, ith
been my intention to gions where I Bed most prob

ble, and if we did not meet with natives to instruct us ii
our further progress, I had determined to return to th
fork, and take the other branch, with the hope of be
fortune. ie

It was about three in the aticaligiiee when we landed, 2
at five the whole party of Indians were assembled. It col
sisted only of three men, three women, and seven or eigh
boys and girls. With their scratched legs, bleeding fee
and dishevelled hair, as in the hurry of their flight th
had left their shoes and leggins behind them, they d
played a most wretched appearance: they were console
however, with beads, and other trifles, which seemed
please them; they had pemmican also given them to eat,
which was not unwelcome, and, in our opinion, at least,
superior to their own provision, which consisted entire
of dried fish. :

When I thought that they were sufficiently compo
I sent for the men to my tent, to gain such informa
respecting the country as I concluded § it was in their po
to afford me. But my expectations were by no m
satisfied: they said that they were not acquainted
any river to the Westward, but that there was one fi
whence they were just arrived, over a carrying-plac
eleven days. march, which they represented as being
branch only of the ‘river before us. Their iron-wo
thev obtained iste the people who inhabit the bank of dl

and dressed moose skins. They ropes de iat
as travelling, during a moon, to get to the cou
other Sib who ule in agile with whom a

North-West Continent of America. 14.5

nad

| people like us, that come there in vessels as big as
s. They added, that the people to the Westward,
y have been told, are very numerous. ‘Those who
ait the other back they stated as consisting of about
families, while they themselves did not amount to
re than a fourths of that number ; and were almost con-
ually compelled to remain in their strong holds, where
they sometimes perished with cold and hunger, to secure
hhemselves from their enemies, who never failed to attack
th em whenever an opportunity presented itself.
' This account of the country, from a people who I had
f ery reason to suppose were well acquainted with every
‘part of it, threatened to disconcert the project on which
my heart was set, and in which my whole mind was oc-
It Deaianted to me, however, that from fear, or
‘ Sher motives, they might be tardy in their communica-
ion; I therefore assured them, that if they would direct
‘me to the river which I described to them, I would come
in large vessels, like those that their neighbours had des-
¢ribed, to the mouth of it, and bring them arms and ammu-
nition in exchangé for the produce of their country ; so
at they might be able to defend themselves against their
nemies, and no longer remain in that abject, distressed,
. Rye state in which they then lived. I added also,
th it in the mean time, if they would, on my return, ac-
sompany me below the mountains, to a country which
vas very abundant in animals, I would furnish them, and
fe companions, with every thing they might want; and.
take peace between them and the Beaver Indians. But
all these promises did not appear to advance the object of
of inquiries, and they still persisted in their ignorance
af any such river as I had mentioned, that discharged
itself into the sea.
._ In this state of perplexity and Uipurtdonestecut, various
| Projects presented themselves to my mind, which were
Ro sooner formed, than they were discovered. to be im-
: practicable, and were consequently abandoned. At one
ime I thought of leaving the canoe, and every thing it
Contained, to go over land, and pursue that chain of con-
| Rection by which these people obtain their iron-work: but
| a very brief course of reflection convinced me that it
would be impossible for us to carry provisions for our
2 port through any considerable part of such a journey,
, T

| use their expression, the Stinking Lake, where they trade

146 Fournal of a Kossay Sane diehaesth

as well as presents, to secure us a kind reception an ;
the natives, and ammunition for the service of the une
ters, and to defendeourselves against any act of hostili
At another time my solicitude for the success of the ex.
pedition incited a wish to remain with the natives, and g
to the sea by the way they had described; but the:accom
plishment of such a journey, even if noaccident sho l
interpose, would have required a portion of time’ which
it was not in my power to-bestow. In my present stat of
information, to proceed further up the river was consi-
dered as afruitless waste of toilsome exertion; and to’
return unsuccessful, after all our labour, sufferings, and
dangers, was an idea too painful to indulge. Besides, b
could not yet abandon the hope that the Indians ae an not
yet be sufficiently composed and confident, to disclose
their real knowledge of the country freely and lia
me. Nor was I altogether without my eC ge 2 ng
the fidelity of my interpreter, who being very much tired —
of the voyage, might be induced to withhold those coms
munications which would induce me to continue it. I there:

fore continued my attentions to the natives, regaled them
with such provisions as I had, indulged their children’
with a taste of sugar, and determined to suspend my
conversation with them till the following morning. a)
my expressing adesire to partake of their fish, chee brought a

the river which they lately left. One ‘of tha men val Oo
brought me five beaver skins, as a present. - oi
Monday 10. The solicitude that possessed. my n min¢ ia
_ Interrupted my repose ; when the dawn appeared il had
already quitted my bed, and was waiting with impatience,
for another conference ‘opis the natives. The sun, hows
ever, had risen before they left their leafy bowers, whither
they had retired with their children, having most hospitas
bly resigned their beds, and the partners of them, to the
solicitations of my young men. 7
I now repeated my inquiries, but my perplexity. bie: 4
not removed by any favourable variation in their answer
About nine, however, one of them, still remaining at. n
fire, in conversation with the interpreters, I understo
enough of his language to know that he mentioned some-
thing about a great river, at the same time pointing signi+
ficantly up that which was before us. On my ing \iring 4
ef the interpreter respecting that expression, I was, i+

North-West Continent of America. 14>

formed that/he knew of a large river that-runs towards the
mid-day sun, a branch of which flowed near the source of
that which we were now navigating ;~and that there were
only three small lakes, and as many carrying-places, lead-
to a small river, which discharges itself into the great
r,; but that the latter did not empty itself into. the
. The inhabitants, he said, built houses, lived on
% ds, and were a numerous and warlike people. Ide-
sired him to describe the road to the other river, by deli-
‘neating it with a piece of coal, on a strip of bark, which
he accomplished to my satisfaction. The opinion that
.. river did not discharge itself into the sea, I very con-
ently imputed to his ignorance of the country.
_. My hopes were now renewed, and an object presented.
itself which awakened my utmost impatience. To facili-
“tate its attainment, one of the Indians was induced, by
rays accompany me as a guide to the first inhabit-
ts, which we might expect to meet on the small lakes in
our way. I accordingly resolved to depart with all expe-
dition, and while my people were making every necessary
preparation, I employed myself in writing the following
description of the natives around me:
Are They are low in stature, not exceeding five feet six
“or seven inches ; and they are of that meagre appearance
which might be expected in a people whose life is one suc-
~¢ession of difficulties in procuring subsistence. Their
faces are round, with high cheek bones ; and their eyes,
_ which are small, are of a dark brown colour ; the cartilage
of their nose is perforated, but without any ornaments
"suspended from it; their hair is of a dingy black, hanging
loose and in disorder over their shoulders, but irregularly
cut in the front, so as not to obstruct the sight ; their
beards are eradicated, with the exception of a few strag-
- gling hairs, and their complection : is a swarthy yellow.
-. Their dress: consists of robes made of the skins of the
_ beaver, the ground hog, and the rein-deer, dressed in the
ir, and of the moose-skin without it. All of them are
_ ornamented with a fringe, while some of them have tas-
is hanging down the seams; those of the ground hog
are decorated on the fur side with the tails of the animal,
~ which they do not separate from them. Their garments
"they tie over the shoulders, and fasten them round the
middle with a belt of green skin, which is as stiff as horn:
Their leggins are long,.and if they were topped with awaist-

148 ournal of a Voyage through the

band, might be called trowsers: they, as well as their
Pacis, are made of dressed moose, elk, or rein-deer skin. _
The organs of generation they leave uncovered sss. ar
The women differ little in their dress from the men,
except in the addition of an apron, which is fastened round —
the waist, and hangs down to the knees. They are in
general ge amore lusty make than the other SX, and taller
in proportion, but infinitely their inferiors in. cleanliness. _ ,
A black artificial stripe crosses the face beneath the eye,
from ear to ear, which I first took for scabs, from the ace
cumulation of dirt on it. ‘Theirhair, which is longer than
that of the men, is divided from the forehead tothe crow ny :
and drawn back in long plaits behind the ears. They have —
also a few white beads, which they get where they pros
cure their iron: they are from a line to an inch in length, ~
and are worn in their ears, but are not of European manus
facture. These, with bracelets made of horn and bone;
bi cad ie all the ornaments which decorate their persons.
Necklaces of the grisly or white bear’s claws, are worn exe”
clusively by the men. ee
Their arms consist of bows made of odie six sided in’
length, with a short iron spike at one end, and serve —
sionally as a spear. Their arrows are well made, barbed, _
and pointed with iron, flint, stone, or bone ; they are
feathered, and from two to two feet and an half in longed
They have two kinds of spears, but both are double-edged,
and of well polished iron; one of them is about twelve
inches long, and two wide ; the other about half the width, ©
and 'two-thirds of the length; the shafts of the first are ~
eight feet in length, and the latter six. They have also”
spears made of bone. Their knives consist of pieces of —
iron, shaped and handled by themselves. Their axes are
something like our adze, and they.use them in the same
manner as we employ that instrument. ‘They were, ‘ins!?
deed, furnished with iron ina manner that I could not —
have ‘supposed, and plainly proved to me that their com= —
munication with those who communicate with the inhas ~
bitants of the sea-coast, cannot be very difficult, and from —
their ample provision of 3 iron weapons, the means of pro» ~
curing it must be ofa more distant origin than I had at first ©
conjectured. re
They have snares made of green skin, which they eut
to the size of sturgeon twine, and twist a certain number

of them together ; and though when completed, pero

iy

North-West Continent of America. 149

not exceed the thickness of a cod-line, their strength is
\sufficient to hold a moose-deer: they are from one and an
half to two fathoms in length. Their nets and fishing-
nes are made of willow-bark and nettles ; those made of
e latter are finer and smoother than if made with hempen
thread. Their hooks are small bones, fixed in pieces of
_ wood split for that purpose, and tied round with fine
-watape, which has been particularly described in the for-
-mervoyage. ‘Their kettles are also made of watape, which
is so closely woven that they never leak, and they heat
‘water inthem, by putting red-hot stones into it. Thereis
one kind of them, made of spruce-bark, which they hang
over the fire, but at such a distance as to receive the heat
without being within reach of the blaze; a very tedious
operation. ‘hey have various dishes of wood and bark ;
spoons of horn and wood, and buckets: bags of leather |
and net-work, and baskets of bark, some of which hold
their fishing-tackle, while others are contrived to be carried
onthe back. They have a brown kind of earth in great
abundance, with which they rub their clothes, not only for
ornament, but utility, as it prevents the leather from be-
coming hard after it has been wetted. ‘They have spruce
bark in great plenty, with which they make their canoes,
an operation that does not require any great portion of
skill or ingenuity, and is managed in the following man-
ner :—The bark is taken off the tree the whole length of
‘the intended canoe, which is commonly about eighteen
feet, and is sewed with watape at both ends; two laths are
then laid, and fixed along the edge of the bark which forms
| the gunwale ; in these are fixed the bars, and against them
bear the ribs, or timbers, that are cut to the length to
which the bark can be stretched ; and, to give additional
| strength, strips of wood are laid between them: to make
| the whole water-tight, gum is abundantly employed. These
| vessels carry from two to five. people. Canoes of asimilar
construction were used by the Beaver Indians within these
_ few years, but they now very generally employ those made
_ of the bark of the birch-tree, which are by far more dura-
ble. Their paddles are about six feet long, and about one
. occupied by the blade, which is in the shape of an
| heart. |
_ Previous to our departure, the natives had caught a
| couple of trout, of about six pounds weight, which they
| brought me, and I paid them with beads. They likewise

sears hes pin ooeaade of the ani
longs does not answer to that. My:
‘two. quivers of excellent arrows, |
claws, of agreat length, horn |
eles, sate _— noapahataete:

e se ? ‘i ae ae BY ea pe hy: ie

ay: ye A at * ae ' ee ¢ “i ‘ i ee ae
y . : SILI L ILL

Fee cay eS See Ne DONE mo a wp Cia fd
Oil riper iho A. eee

nf Phen awd ‘ it ¥ Yeh) Rd Bei: st Ya 3 :

S ! a

; - PERN hy :

Dine Bs

fg) RA SE atk ae er oh py Pvt “ion .
é a hy a aes ee vie * : gir dy) ie a ae Jae. us
eae +) oe e ¥ ie F * .

Tyg aiaibiine

North-West Continent of America. 151°

¥ Ee Pore. ii She
ee CHAPTER VI

Continue woke voyage. State of thoveinen: Succession of
\ courses. Sentiment of the guide. Conical mountain,
(Continuation of courses: Leave the main branch. Enter
another. Description of it. Saw beaver. Enter alahes
+ Arrive at the upper source of the Unjigah, or Peace Ri-
ver. Land, and cross toa second lake. Local circum=
iy stances. Proceed toa third lake. Enter a river. En-
_ counter various difficulties. In danger of being lost. The
* circumstances of that situation described. Alarm and
_ dissatisfaction amang the people. They are at length
composed. The canoe repaired. Roads cut through
_ woods. Pass morasses. The guide deserts. After @
* succession of difficulties, dangers, and toilsome marches,
. we arrive at the i wale TLVere
bp

jones, 1793.
donday 10. 2 Ar ten we were ready toembark. I then took

eave of the Indians, but encouraged them to expect us in

vo moons, and expressed an hope that I should find them
on the road with any of their relations whom they might
meet. I also returned the beaver-skins to the man who
hhad presented them to me, desiring him to take care of
them till Icame back, when I would purchase them of
him. Our guide expressed much less concern about the
v undertaking i in which he had engaged, than his compan-
ms, who appeared to be affected wie great solicitude for
s safety.

We now pushed off the canoe ps the bank, and pro-
ceeded East half a mile, when a river flowed in from the
eft, about half as large as that which we were navigating.
We continued the same course three quarters of a mile,
when we missed two of our fowling pieces, which had
been forgotten, and I sent their owners back for them, who
were absent on this errand upwards of an hour. We now
proceeded North-East by East half a mile, North- East
by North three quarters of a mile, when the current slack-
ee there was a verdant spot on the left, where, from
the remains of some Indian timber-work, it appeared that
the natives had frequently encamped. Our next course
East one mile, and we saw aridge of mountains co-

152 Fournal ofa Voyage through the’.

vered with snow to the South-East. The land on our.
right was low and marshy for three or four miles, when it a
rose into arange of heights that extended to the moun-
tains. We proceeded East-South-Easta mile and an half,
- South-East by East one mile, East by South three quarters —
of a mile, South-East by Lest one mile, East by South half
a mile, North-East by East one. mile, South-East | half a
mile, East-North-East a mile anda quarter, South-Sout l=
East half a mile, North-North- ait a mile and an ha f .
here a river flowed in from the left, which was about one-
fourth part as large as.that which received. its wributeag!
waters. We then. continued East by South half a mile,
to the foot of. the mountain on the South of the above
river. The course now veered short, South-West by
West three quarters of.a mile, East by South a quarter of
a mile, South half a mile, South-East by South half amile,
South-West a quarter of a mile, East by South a quarter
of a mile, veered to West-North-West a quarter of a mile
South- West one eighth of a mile, East-South- East one
quarter of.a mile, East one sixth of a mile, South-South.
West one twelfth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of
a mile, North-East by Bast one third’of a mile, East by
North one twelfth of a mile, North-East by East one thn ‘
of amile, East one sixteenth of a mile, South-East one
twelfth of a mile, North East by East one twelfth of a
mile, East one eighth of a mile, and East-South-East. half
a mile, when we landed at seven o’clock and encampe .
During the greatest part of the distance we came to-day,
the river runs close under the mountains on the left. _
Tuesday 11. The morning was clear and cold. |
my interpreter’s encouraging the, guide to dispel all. ap:
prehension, to maintain his fidelity to me, and not to d
sert in the night, ‘“* How is it possible for me,” he replied,
“ to leave the lodge of the Great Spirit |—When he tells
‘« me that he has no further occasion for me, I will then
“ return to my children.” As we proceeded, howeve
he soon lost, and with good reason, his os notions
me. se
At four we continued our voyage, steering East by ry
South a mile and an half, East-South-East half a bey
A river appeared on the left, at the foot of a mountam
which, from its conical form, my young Indian called the
Beaver Lodge Mountain. Having proceeded South-
South-East half a mile, another river alii eiaies

ide

_ North-West Continent of America. 153

right. We now came in a line with the beginning of the
mountains we saw yesterday; others of the same kind
_ fan parallel with them on the left side of the river, which
_ was reduced to the breadth of fifteen yards, and witha
_ Moderate current. :
_/* We now steered East-North-East one eighth ofa mile,
- South-East by South one eighth of a mile, East-South-
_ East one sixth of a mile, South-West one eighth of a
_ mile, East-South-East one eighth of a mile, South-South-
- East one sixth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth
of amile, East-South-East half a mile, South-West by
West one third of a mile, South-South-East one eighth
of a mile, South-South-West one quarter of a mile,
North-East one sixth of a mile, South by West one
fourth of a mile, East three qurters of a mile, and North-
ast one quarter of a mile. Here the mountain on the
left appeared to be composed of a succession of round
hills, covered with wood almost to their summits, which
_ were white with snow, and ‘crowned with withered trees.
“We now steered East, in a line with the high lands on the
Fight five miles ; North one twelfth ofa mile, North-East by
‘North one eighth of a mile, South by East one sixteenth
ofamile, North-East by North one fourth of a mile, where
another river fell in from the right ; North-East by East one
‘sixth of a mile, East two miles and and anhalf, South one
twelfth of amile, North-East half a mile, South-East one
third of amile, East one mile anda quarter, South-South-
_ Westone sixteenth ofa mile, North-Eastby Easthalfamile,
East one mile and three quarters, South and South-West
“by West half a mile, North-East half a mile, South one
‘third of a mile, NorthEast by North one sixth of a mile,
_ East by South one’ fourth of a mile, South one eighth of
_ amile, South-East three quarters of a mile. The canoe
‘had taken in so much water, that it was necessary for us
“to land here, in order to stop the leakage, which occa-
‘sioned the delay of an hour and a quarter, North-East a
| quarter of a mile, East-North-East a quarter of a mile,
| South-East by South a sixteenth of a mile, East by South
atwelfih of a mile, North-East one sixth of a mile, East-
South-East one sixteenth of a mile, South-West half a
| mile, North-East a quarter of a mile, East by South half
| a’mile, South-South-East one twelfth of a mile, East
| half a mile, North-East by North a quarter of a mile,
| “South-South-East a quarter of a mile, North-East by
Ee U

154 Fournal of a Voyage through the

North one twelfth of a mile, where-a small river flowed
in from the left, South-East by East one twelfth of a ba Cy
South by East a quarter of a mile, South-East one eighth
of a mile, East one twelfth of a mile, North-East, by
North a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, South-East -
by South one eighth of a mile, North-East one fourth o
a mile, South-East by East, and South-sKast by South >
one third of a mile, Ras Sunthekiadty and North-North-
East one third of a mile, and South by West, East and.
East-North-East-one eighth of a mile. Re

Here we quitted the main branch; which, according te
the information of our guide, terminates at a short diss
tance, where it is supplied by the snow which covers ie

.

mountains. In the same direction is a valley which”
appears tobe of very great depth, and is full of snow,
that rises nearly to the height of the land, and forms ares
servoir of itself sufficient to furnish a river whenever
there is a moderate degree of heat. ‘The branch which
we left was not, at thistime, more than ten yards broad, —
while that which we entered was still less. Here the curs .
rent was very trifling, and the channel so -meanderingy —
that we sometimes found it dificult to work the canoe fors
ward. The straight course from this to the entrance of
asmall lake or pond, is about East one mile. This en=
trance by the river into the lake was.almost choaked. up t

a quantity of drift-wood, which appeared to mé to bean
extraordinary circumstance ; but I afterwards found tha
itfalls down from the mountains. The water, however, ,
was so high, that the country was entirely overflowed, }
and we passed with the canoe among the branches of trees.
The principal wood along the banks is spruce, intermixed
with a few white birch, growing on detached spots, thé —
intervening spaces being covered with willow and alder.
We advanced about a mile in the lake, and took up our
station for the night at an old Indian encampment. Here

we expected to meet with natives, but were disappointed: |

but our guide encouraged us with the hope of seeing some ~
on the morrow. We saw beaver in the course of the af- _
ternoon,» but did not discharge our pieces, from ‘fear of
alarming the inhabitants; there were alsu swans in great
numbers, with geese and ducks, which we did not disturb

‘for the same reason. We observed also the tracks 0

_ moose-deer that had crossed the river; and wild parsnips |
_ grew here in abundance, which have ‘been already men+

Morth-Wes Continent of America. 155

tioned as a greatful vegetable. Of birds, we saw blue
7s, yellow birds, and one beautiful humming-bird ; of
‘the first and last, I had not seen any since I had been in
‘the North-West.
» Wednesday 12. ‘The weather was the same as yester-
y, and we proceeded between three and four in the
mo ning. We took up the net which we had set the pre-
‘ceding evening, when it contained a trout, one white fish,
| me carp, and three jub. The lake is about two miles
inlength, East by South, and from three to five hundred
| yards wide. This I consider as the highest and Southern-
_ most source of the Unjigah, or Peace River, latitude 54.
24. North, longitude 121. West of Greenwich, which, af-
“tor a winding course through a vast extent of country, re=
ceiving many large rivers in its progress, and passing
| through. the Slave. Lake, empties itself into the Frozen
~ Ocean in 70. North latitude, and about 135. West longitude.
'» We landed and unloaded, were we found a beaten path
- leading over a low ridge of dand/ of eight hundred and
“seventeen paces in length to another small lake. The dis-
tance between the two mountains at this place is about a
quarter of a mile, rocky precipices presenting themselves
_ n both sides.. A few large spruce trees and liards were
scattered oyer the carrying- -place. ‘There were also wil-
lows along the side of the water, with plenty of grass and
weeds. The natives had left their old cances here, with
baskets hanging on the trees, which contained various
‘articles. From the latter I took a net, some hooks, a
- goat’s horn, and a kind of wooden trap, ‘in which, as our
‘guide informed me, the ground-hog is taken. Ileft, how-
ever, in exchange, a knife, some fire-steels, bends: awls,.
&c. Here two streams tumble down the rocks from the
‘right, and lose themselves in the lake which we had left ;
while two others fall from the opposite heights, and glide
into the lake which we were approaching; this being the
highest point of land dividing these waters, and we are
| how going with the stream. ‘This lake runs in the same
| ourse as the last, but is rather narrower, and not more
than half the length. We were obliged to clear away some
floating drift-wood to get to the carrying-place, over which
| isa beaten path of only an hundred and seventy-five paces
long. The lake empties itself by a small river, which, if
_the channel were not interrupted by Ap trees that had
| fallen across it, would have admitted of our canoe with

=e

156 _Fournal of a Ve oyage through the

all its lading; the impediment, indeed, might have ben
removed by two axe-men ina few hours. On the edg
of the water, we observed a large quantity of lbtinss4
low scum or froth, of an acrid taste and smell.
We embarked on this lake, which is in. the same course,
and about the same size as that which we had just left, and
from whence we passed into a small river, that was so full -
of fallen wood, as to employ some time, and require so
exertion, to foune a passage. At the entrance, it afforded
no more water than was just sufficient to bear the canoe;
but it was soon increased by many small streams which
came in broken rills down the rugged sides of the moun. —
tains, and were furnished, as I suppose, by the ovina
the snow. These accessory streamlets had all the. colds
ness of ice. Our course continued to be obstructed”
by banks of gravel, as well as trees which had fallen
across the river. We were obliged to force our way
through the one, and to cut through the other, ata great
expense of time and trouble. In many places the current
was also very rapid and meandering. At four in the afters
noon, we stopped to unload and carry, and at five we en-
tered a. small round lake of about one third of a mile in
diameter. From the last lake to this is, I think, ma
. straight line, East by South six miles, though, it/1s., twice,
that distance by the winding of the river. We again en-—
tered the river, which soon ran with great radical dy:
rushed impetuously over a bed of flat stones. At half
past six we were stopped by twolarge trees that lay across,
the river, and it was with great difficulty that the canoe
was prevented from driving against them. Here we un-—
loaded and formed our encampment. Lg
The weather was cloudy and raw, and as the circum.
stances of this day’s voyage had. compelled us to be ing
quently i in the water, which was cold as ice, we were ale
most in a benumbed state. Some of the people who hac :
gone ashore to. lighten the canoe, experienced iid liffi-

it was, indeed, almost dark when they: areca Weh ha
no sooner landed than I sent. two men down ‘the river =
bring me some account of its circumstances, that I mi ght —
form a judgment of the difficulties which might await us —
on the morrow; and they brought back a fearful detail of ©
rapid currents, fallen trees, and large stones. At. this
place our guide manifested evident symptoms of. sigontnne

1

North-West Continent of America. 157

-he ‘had been very much alarmedin going down some
rapids with us, and expressed an anxiety to return.
howed us a mountain, | at no great distance, which he .
esented as being on the oiher side of a paren, into
1 this empties itself.
ursday 13. Atan early hour this morning the men
to cut a road, in order to carry the canoe and lading
yond the rapid ; and by seven they were ready. . That
business was soon effected, and the canoe re-lacen, to pro-
ceed with the current which-ran with great rapidity. in
order to lighten her, it was my intention to walk ae
‘some of the people ; but those in the boat with great ear- _
‘estness requested me to embark, declaring, at the sanie.
time, that if they perished, I should perish with them.
I did not then imagine in how short a period. their appre-
hension would be justified. We accordingly pushed off,
and had proceeded but a very short way when the canoe
‘struck, and notwithstanding all our exertions, the violence
ofthe current was so great as to drive her sideways down
the river, and break: her by the first bar, when I instantly
jumped into the water, and the men followed my example ;
but before we could set her straight, or stop her, we came
to deeper water, so that we were obliged to re-embark
_ with the utmost precipitation. One of the men who was
3 not sufficiently active, was left to get on shore in the best
‘manner in his power. We had hardly regained our situa-
tions when we drove against a rock which shattered the
stern of the canoe in such a manner, that it held only by
the gunwales, so that the steersman could no longer keep
_hisplace. The violence of this stroke drove us to the op-
posite side of the. river, which is but narrow, when the
bow met with the same fateas the stern. At this moment
| the foreman seized on some branches of a smalltree, in
the hope of bringing up the canoe ; but such was their elas-
‘ticity, that, in a manner not easily described, he wasjerked
on shore in an instant, and with a degree of violence thit
threatened his destruction. But we had no time to turn
from our own situation to inquire what had befallen him ;
| for, ina few moments, we came across a cascade, which
| broke several large holes in the bottom of the canoe, and
| started ail the bars, except one behind the scooping seat.
| If this accident, however, had not happened, the vessel
‘Must have been irretrievably overset. The wreck becom-
! ing flat on the water, we all — out, while the steers-

158 Fournal of a Voyage through the

man, who had been compelled to abandon: his place, ¢
had not recovered from his fright, called. out to his
panions to save themselves. My peremptory com1
een i effects of his fear, and Hess ra held: fon

the coche by the force oh the water, or dient over irs
cades. In this condition we were forced several hundr d
yards, and every yard on the verge of destruction ; but, at
length, we most fortunately arrived in shallow water and
a small eddy, where we were enabled to make a’ stand
from the weight of the canoe resting on the stones, rathe;
than from any exertions of our exhausted strength. For
though our efforts were short, they were pushed to the ute
most, as life or death depended onthem. This alarming
scene, with all its terrors and dangers, occupied only a few
minutes ; and in the present suspension of it, we called 1

the people on shore to come to our assistance, and they
immediately obeyed the summons. The foreman, hows
ever, was the first with us; he had escaped unhurt from
‘the extraordinary jerk with which he was thrown out of
the boat, and just as we were beginning to take our effects:
out of the water, he appeared to give his assistance, The
Indians, when they saw our. deplorable situation, instead
of making the least effort to help us, sat down and gave
vent to their tears. I was on the outside of the canoe,
inlay I remained till every thing was got on ae a

so that at Lavo it was with ditto I could sean
the benumbed state of my limbs. a
The loss was considerable and important, sit it consist ted
of our whole stock of balls, and some of our furniture ¢
but these considerations were forgotten i in the impressions:
of our miraculous escape. Our first inquiry was after the
absent man, whom in the first moment of danger, we had
left to get on shore, and in a short time his appearance”
removed our anxiety. We had, however, sustained no
personal injury of consequence, and my terete? see med
to be in the greater proportion. vt ‘dean
All the different articles were now spread out to: dry.
The powder had fort tunately received no damage, anc all
my instruments had escaped. Indeed, when my p opie
began to recover from their alarm, sail to enjoy a sé
of safety, some of them, if not all, were by no ‘means

North-West Continent of America. 159

y for our late misfortune, from the hope that it must
period to our voyage, particularly as we were with-
canoe, and all the bullets sunk in the river. It did
indeed, seem possible to them that we could proceed
rthese circumstances. I distened, however, to the
‘vations that were made on the occasion without re-
gto them, till their panic was dispelled, and they had
themselves warm and comfortable, with an Lenery
al, and rum enough to raise their spirits.

then. addressed them, by recommending them all to
ankful for their late very narrow escape. T[alsostated,

t the navigation was not impracticable in itself, but from
‘ignorance of its course: and that our late experience

uld enable us to pursue our voyage with greater secu-
_ [brought to their recollection, that I did not deceive
, and that they were made acquainted with the diffi-
es and dangers they must expect to encounter, before

engaged to accompany me. I also urged the honour

f conquering disasters, and the disgrace that would at-

d them on their return home, without having attained
bject of the expedition. Nor did I failto mention the:
rage and resolution which was the peculiar boast of the
rth men; and that I depended on them, at that moment,
ie maintenance of their character. I quieted their
rehension as to the loss of the bullets, by bringing to
recollection that we sti]l had shot from which they
t be manufactured. I at the sametime acknowledged:
i 2 difficulty of restoring the wreck of the canoe, but con-
‘in our skill and exertion to put it in such a state as
uld carry us on to where we might procure bark, and
a new one. In short, my harangue produced the
desired effect, anda very general assent i banca to > go
| wherever L should lead the way.

_ Various opinions were offered in the present side of
irs, and it was rather a general wish that the wreck:
‘should be abandoned, and all the lading carried to the
-Yiver, which our guide informed us was at no great dis-
tance, and in the vicinity of woods where he believed there
was plenty of bark. ‘This project seemed not to promise
t certainty to which I looked in my present operations ;
ides, I had my doubts respecting the views of my guide,
consequently could not confide in the representation he.
made to me. I therefore dispatched two of the men at
‘Rime in the morning, with one of the young Indians, for I

‘

160 ~Sournal of a Voyage through the

did not venture to trust the guide out of my sight, inse
of bark, and to endeavour, if it were possible, in the cour
of the day, to penetrate to the great river, mto which
before us disohe arges itselfin the direction which the gui
had communicated. Inow joined my people, in orde:
repair, as well as circumstances would admit, our wr
ofa canoe, and I began to set them the example. ie

At noon I had an 7 altitude; which gave 54. 23.. North
latitude. Atfour in the afternoon I took time, with the
hope that in the night I might obtain an observation of Ju--
piter and his satellites, but Thad not a sufficient horizo
from the propinquity of the mountains. The result o
calculation for time was 1. 38. 28. slow apparent time.

It now grew late, and the people who had been sent
the excursion already mentioned, were not yet retur
about ten o’clock, however, I heard a man halloo,
very gladly returned the aiendl: Ina shorttime our yo
Indian arrived with a small roll of indifferent bark : he
oppressed with fatigue and hunger, and his clothes torn
rags: he had parted with the other two men at sun-s
who had walked the whole day, in a dreadful count
without procuring any good bark,’ or being able to get
to the large river. His account ‘of the river, on wh
banks we were, could not be’ more unfavourable or d
couraging; it had appeared to him to be little more th
a succession of falls and rapids, with whi ep intern
tions of fallen trees. ae

Our guide became so diontieniadk saith eroreitebl in mi
that we could not obtain from him any regular accour
the country before’ us. All we could collect from
was, that the river into which this empties itself is wd
branch of a large river, the great fork being at no ¢
distance from the confluence of this; and that he k
of no lake, or large body of still water, in the vicini
these rivers. To this account of the country, he ac
some strange, fanciful, but terrifying descriptions of
natives, similar to those vanes were mentioned 1 in
former voyage. EL

- We had an escape this dy, which-F ‘must adel to |
many instances of good fortune which I experience
this perilous expedition. The powder had been 5;
out, to the amount of eighty pounds weight, to receiv
air ; and, in this situation, one of the men carelessly
composediy walked across it with: a ee

North-West Continent of Americd. 161
mouth, but without any ill consequence resulting from
4 in act of. criminal negligence. I need not add that
peemight have put a period to all my anxiety and

we Pserecd several trees and shoul on the banks of tiiis
‘river, which I had not seen to the North of the latitude
2, such as the cedar, maple, hemlock, &c.- At this time
he water rose fast, and passed on with the rapidity of ai an.
arrow shot from a bow.
DpPriday 14. The weather was fine, clear, and warm, and at
‘an early hour ofthe morning we resumed our repair of the
«anoe. At half past seven our two men returned hungry
and cold, not having tasted food, or enjoyed the least re-
pose for twenty-four hours, arith their clothes torn into
ers, and their skin lacerated, in passing through the
ods.. Their account was the same as that brought by
Indian, with this exception, that they had reason to
ik they saw the river, or branch which our guide had
ntioned; but they were of opinion that from the fre-
nt abstiuctiona:in this river, we should have to carry
» whole way to it, through adreadful country, where
ch time and labour would be required to opena ——s
ough it.
scouraging as these accounts were, they did not,
fever, interrupt for a moment the task in which we
e engaged, of repairing the canoe; and this work
ontrived to complete by the conclusion of the day.
bark which was brought by the Indian, with some
s of oil-cloth, and plenty of gum, enabled us to put
shattered vessel in a condition to answer our present
poses. The guide,’ who has been mentioned as mani-
ing continual signs of dissatisfaction, now assumed
) air of conteritment, which I attributed to a smoke that
visible in the direction of the river; as he naturally
cted, if we should fall in with any natives, which
now very probable, from such a circumstance, that
: should be released from a service which he had found
irksome and full of danger. I had an observation. at
n, which made our latitude 54. 23. 43. North. I also
took time, and found it to slow apparent time 1.38. 44. |
‘ Saturday 15. The weather continued the same as the
preceding day, and according to the directions which I
reviously given, my people began, at a very early
r, to opena road, through which we might carry apart

: | Ww |

x i

162 Yournal of a Voyage throtigh the.

‘of our lading; as I was fearful cf risking the who
it in the canoe, in its present weak state, and ina
the river which is full of shoals and rapids. Four
were employed to conduct her, lightened as she was
‘twelve packages. ‘They passed several dangerous pla
‘and met with various obstructions, the current of th:
being frequently stopped by raits of drift-wood, and
trees, so that after fourteen hours hard labour we had
made more than three miles. Our course was South
‘East-by East, and as we had not met: with any accide
the men appeared to feel a renewed courage to col
their voyage. Inthe morning, however, one of the c
‘whose name was Beauchamp, peremptorily refused to «
bark inthe canoe. This being the first example of
lute disobedience which had yet appeared during
‘course of our expedition, I should not have pass
over without taking some very severe means to pre
a repetition of it; but as he had the general characte
a simple fellow, among his companions, and had
frightened out of what little sense he possessed, by
late dangers, I rathcr preferred to consider him as
worthy of accompanying us, and to represent him:
object of ridicule and contempt for his pusillani mama
haviour; though, in fact, he was a very useful,
and laborious man. — ; ong
At the close of the day we seieoabil eek nsoaaball
fire ; and the whole party, being enlivened with the
beverage which I supplied on these occasions, forgot:
fatigues and apprehensions ; ; nor did they fail to antic
the ‘pleasure they should enjoy in getting clear of the
sent difficulties, and gliding onwards with a stro
steady stream, which our guide had described as th
racteristic of the large river we soon expected to en
Sunday 16. The fine weather continued, and we
our work, as we had done .the preceding day’; some
occupied in opening a road, others were carrying, anc
rest employed in conducting the canoe. I was of th
party, and soon discovered that we had encamped
half a mile above several falls, over which we co
attempt to run the canoe, lightened even as she was.
circumstance rendered it necessary that the road +
be made sufficiently wide to admit the canoe to pa:
tedious and toilsome work. In. rupning her dow
above the falls, an hole was broken in her bott

North-West Continent of America. 163°

‘@ecasioned considerable delay, as we were destitute of

‘the materials necessary for her effectual reparation. On
omy being informed of this misfortune, I returned, and or-
“dered Mr. Mackay, with two Indians, to quit their occu.
ation in’ making the read, and endeavor to penetrate to’
he Perea river, according to the direction which the guide
ad communicated, without paying any attention to the
“course of the river before us.

_<- When the people had repaired the canoe in nthe: best
manner they were able, we conducted her to. the head of
the falls; she was then unloaded and taken out of the
water, when we carried her for a considerable distance
_ through a low, swampy country. I appointed four men
to this laborious office, which they executed at the peril of
“their lives, for the canoe was now become so heavy, from
the additional quantity of bark and gum necessary to |
“patch her up, that two men could not carry her more than
van. hundred. yards, without bemg relieved; and as their
» way lay through deep mud, which was “rendered more dif-
* ficult by the roots: and prostrate trunks of trees, they were
‘every moment in danger of fallmg; and beneath such a
“weight, one false step might have been attended with fatal
“consequences. ‘Fhe other two men and myself followed

_as fast as we could, with the lading. ‘Fhus did we toil till
_ seven o’clock in the ev ening, to get to the termination of
» the road that had been made in the morning. Here Mr.
Mackay and the Indian joined us, after having been at the
» river, which they represented as. rather large. They had
Siibse. observed, that the lower part of the river before us
was so full of fallen wood, that the attempt to clear a pas-
“sage throught it, would be an unavailing labour. The.
~~ country through which they had passed was morass, and
_ almost impenetrable. wood. In passing over one of the
~~ émbarras, our dog, which was following them, fell in, and.
‘it was with very great difficulty that he was saved, as the
© current had carried him under the drift. They brought:
~ with them two geese, which had been shot in the course
~ of their expedition. To addto our perplexities and em-
- barrassments, we were persecuted by musquitoes and.
haa penaeetics, through the whole of the day.
. The extent of our journey was not more than two miles
© South-East ; and so much fatigue and pain had been. suf-
4 ab in the course of it, that my people, as might be ex-

é pected , looked forward to a continuance of it with dis-

_

* rs X
164 Journal of a Voyage through the’

couragement and dismay. I was, indeed, informed t
murmurs prevailed among them, of which, —— T
took no notice. When we were assembled together f
the night, I gave each of'them a dram, and in a short time -
they retired to the repose which they so much required,
We could discover the termination of the mountains ata
considerable distance on either side of us, which, accord=
ing to my conjecture, marked the course of the greatriver.
On the mountains to the East there were several fires, as i
their smokes were very visible to us, Excessive heat
prevailed throughout the day. ee
Monday 17. Having sat up till twelve last night, viel
had been my constant practice since we had taken our pre=
sent guide, T!awoke Mr. Mackay to watch him in turn, ~
I then laid down to rest, and at three I was awakened to ~
be informed that he ‘aa deserted. Mr. Mackay, wit! hy
whom I was displeased on this occasion, and the Cancre,
accompanied by the dog, went m search of him, but he
had made his escape: a ae which he had for some —

power to induce him to remain pe me, a
This misfortune did not produce any relaxation in: oan
exertions. At an early hour of the morning we were | se
employed in cutting a passage of three quarters of a mile,
_ through which we carried our canoe and cargo, when we —
put her into the water with her lading, but in a very short »
time were stopped by the drift-wood, and were obliged to —
land and carry. In short, we pursued our alternate jour-
nies, by land and water, till noon, when we could proceed _
no further, from the various small, unnavigable channels _
into which the river branched in every direction; and no ~
other mode of getting forward now remained ie us, but
by cutting aroad across a neck of land. I accordingly dis- —
patched two men to ascertain the exact distance, and we —
employed the interval of their absence in unloading and ~
getting the canoe outof the water. It was eight in the —
evening when we arrived at the bank of the great river. we
This journey was three quarters of a mile East North- —
East, througha continued swamp, where, in many places, — i
we waded up to the middle of our thighs. Our course in —
the small river was about South-East by East three miles, ae
At length we enjoyed, afterall our toil and anxiety, the
inexpressible satisfaction of finding ourselves on the b
of anavigable river, on the West side of the first gr
range of mountains. —

North-W est Continent of Ameritte 165

i iny spate: _ Proceed on the great river. Circumstances
i of it. Account of courses. Come to rapids. Observe
several smokes. See a flight of white ducks. Pass over a
. earrying-place with the canoe, &c. The difficulties of
that passage. Abundance of wildonions. Ke-embark on
_ the river. See some of the natives. They desert their
; camp, and flyinto the woods. Courses continued. Killa
Wer red deer, Sc. Circumstances of the river. Arrive at an
_ Andian habitation. Description of it... Account of acu-
rious machine to catch fish. Landto procure bark for the
purpose of constructing anew canoe. Conceala quantity
. of pemmican for provision on our return. Succession of
courses. , Meet with some ofthe natives. Our intercourse
with them. Their information respecting the river, and
the sate Description of those Beale:

ats

2, 1793,
lay, 18. tle rained throughout the night, and till seven -

€ morning ; ; nor was I sorry that the weather gave me
xcuse for indulging my people with that additional
which their fatigues, during the last three days, ren-
dsocomfortable to them. Before eight, however, we
on the water, and driven on by a strong current,
on we steered East-South-East half a mile, South-West
outh halfa mile, South-South-East half a mile, South.
est half a mile, went round to North-West half a mile,
ed South-South-East three quarters of a mile, South-
th-West half a mile, South by East a quarter of a
_and South-West by South three quarters of a mile.
> the water had fallen considerably, so that several
1ud and sand-banks were visible. There was also an my
a-head, West-South-West.
iA The weather was so hazy that we could not see across
iver, which is here about two hundred yards wide.
now proceeded South by West one third of a mile,
-we saw a considerable quantity of beaver work along
banks, North-North-West half a mile, South-West
Vest one mile and an half, South-South-West one
of a mile, West by South one third of a mile, South
y Easthalf a mile. Mountains rose on the left, imme-

{66 ‘Fournal ofa Voyage through the.

diately above the river, whose summits were covered with ie
snow; South-West half a mile, South a quarter of a mi
South-East one third of a mile, South'South-West half |
mile. Here are several islands, we then veered to West
by South a third of a mile, South-South-East.a sixth of | fe
mile. -On the right, the land is high, rocky, and cove
with wood, West-South-West one mile, a small river
ranning in from the South- East, South-West half a mile,
South three quarters of a mile, South-West half a valle ‘
South by West halfa mile. Here arocky point protru
from the left, and narrows the river to an hundred yards ;
South-East half amile, East by South one eighth of a
mile. The current now was very strong, but. perfectly.
safe, South-East by South an eighth of a mile, Westby
kane ay one fa Soin mile, South by Westa twelfth offat rile,

nates on one side of the river, while rocks rise to a con
derable height immediately above the other, and the channel
widens to an hundred and fifty yards, West. by South one ©
mile. The river now narrows again between rocks of a mo~
derate height, North-North-East an eighth of a r
veered to South-West an eighth of a mile, South and Sout
Westhalfamile. The country ‘appeared tobe low, as f
as I could judge of it from the canoe, as the view is co
fined by woods at the distance of about an hundred y
from the banks. Our course continued West by Nor
two miles, North half a mile, North-West a quarter | of a
mile, Boma Wy Eee two miles, North- West three ca ere.

West one mile. A small river flowed in fron che ‘or
South a quarter of a mile, North-West half a riled Ol
South-West two miles and an’ half, South-East th
quarters of a mile; a rivulet lost ctsel in the main stre
West-North-West half a mile. Here the current slz
ened, and we proceeded South-South- West three quar
of a mile, South-West three quarters of a mile, South
East three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one
mile, when it veered gradually to West-North- West hi :

a mile; the river being full of islands. .We ba \
due North, with little current, the river presenting a bea
ful sheet of water for a tie and an half, South-Wes
West one mile, West-North-West one mile, a a
veered round to South-East one mile, West by No
‘one mile, South-Kast one mile, West by Nor

rear
ee

i
* %

North-West Continent of America. 167

ha ors. of a mile, South one eighth of a mile, when we
came. to an Indian cabin of late erection, Here was the
‘ "great fork, of which our guide had informed us, and it ap-
peared to be the largest branch from the South-East. It is
about half a mile in breadth, and assumes the form of a
ate The current was very slack, and we got into the
middle of the channel, when we steered West, and sound-
edi in sixteen feet water. A ridge of hiph land now
“stretched on, as it were, across our present direction :
this course was three miles. We then proceeded West-
_ South-West two miles, and sounded in, twenty-four feet
_awater. Here the river narrowed and the current in-
creased. We then continued our course North-North-
West three quarters of a mile, a small river falling in from
_ the North-East. It now veered to South by West one
mile and a quarter, West-South-West four miles and an
_ half, West by North one mile and a quarter, North-West
_by West one mile, West a mile and a quarter: the land
was. ‘high on both sides, and the river narrowed to an hun-
dred and fifty, or two hundred yards; North-West three
_ quarters of a mile, South-West by South two miles and an
| half: here its. breadth again increased; South by West
sane mile, West-South-West half a od South-West by
South three miles, South- South-East one mile, with a
_ small river running in from the left, South with a strong
a current one miie, then East three quarters of amile, South-
_ West one mile, South-South-East a mile and an half; the
Fur last distances being a continual rapid ; South- West
i by West one mile, East-North-East a mile and an half,
_ East-South- -East one mile, where a small river flowed in
_ on the right; South-West by South two miles ané an half,
_ when another small river appeared from the same quarter ;
_ South by East half a mile, and South-West by West one
_ mile and a quarter: here we landed for the night. When
ig -we had passed the last river we observed smoke rising from
% it, as if produced by fires that had been fresh lighted ; I
ore concluded that there were natives on Ag boars. ;
_ but I was unwilling to fatigue m y people, by pulling back
against the current in order to go in search of them.
__ This river appeared, from its high water-mark, to have
7 fallen no more than one foot, while the nailer branch,
_ from a similar measurement, ‘had sunk two feet et an

168 Fournal of a Voyage through the

The weather was cold and raw throughout the. 7; and —
the wind South-West. We saw smoke rising in columns |
from many parts of the woods, and I should have been —
“more anxious to seé the natives, if there had been a
person with me who could have introduced me to the:
but as that object could not be then attained without c
siderable loss of time, I determined to pursue the nay
gation while it continued to be so favourable, and to wai
till my return, if no very convenient opportunity offe:
in the mean time, to engage in an intercourse with them

Wednesday 19. The morning was foggy, and at th
‘we were on the water. At half past that hour, our hb: ”
was East by South three quarters of a mile, a small river —
flowing in from the right. We then proceeded South b f
East half a mile, and South-South-West a mile and an —
half. During the last distance, clouds of thick smoke ©
rose from the woods, that darkened the atmosphere, ace
companied with a strong odour of the gum of cypress and —
the spruce-fir.. Our courses continued to be South- -West
a mile and a quarter, North-West by West three quar
ters of a mile, South-South-East a mile and a quarter,
East three quarters of a mile, South-West one mile, We aa
by South three quarters of a "mile, South-East by South. e
three quarters of a mile, South by West half a aie _
West by South three quarters of a mile, South by Wes
two miles and an half. In the last course there was an
island, and # appeared to me, that the main channel of —
the river had formerly been on the other side of it. The —
banks were here composed of high white cliffs, crowned —
with pinnacles in very grotesque shapes. We conhany d a
to steer South-East by htm: a mile and a an aa te ,

‘a

East by East one mile, Suiits by East three quarters of
mile, South-East by East one mile, South-South- E
half a mile, East one mile and a quarter, South by Eas
half a mile, East a mile cae an half, South- South-Eat

on both Hide of the river, as to afford the appearance to
the upper part of a fall or cataract. Under this’ ei |
hension we landed on the left shore, where we found a
kind of foot-path, imperfectly traced, through which 1

conjectured that the natives occasionally passed their ca
noes and baggage. On examining the course of the nivel

¥

North-West Continent of America. 169

however, there did not appear to be any fall as we ex-
yected ; but the rapids were of a considerable length and
impassable for a light canoe. We had, therefore, no al-
ternative but to widen the road so as to admit the passage
__ of our canoe, which was now carried with great difficulty:
as from her frequent repairs, and not always of the usual
‘materials, her weight was such, that she cracked and broke
on the shoulders of the men who bore her. The labour
and fatigue of this undertaking, from eight till twelve,
beggars all description, when we at length conquered this
' afflicting passage, of about half a mile, over a rocky and
most rugged hill. Our course was South-South-West.
Here I took a meridian altitude, which gave me 53. 42. 20.
North latitude. We, however, lost some time to put our
canoe ina condition to carry us onwards. Our course
_ was South a quarter of a mile to the next carrying-place ;
which was nothing more than a rocky point about twice
the length of the canoe. From the extremity of this point
to the rocky and almost perpendicular bank that rose on
the opposite shore, is not more than forty or fifty yards.
The great body of water, at the same time tumbling in
Successive cascades along the first carrying-place, rolls
through this narrow passage in a very turbid current, and
full of whirlpools. On the banks of the river there was
great plenty of wild onions, which, when mixed up with
our pemmican, was a great improvement of it; though
they produced a physical effect on our appetites, which was
‘rather inconvenient to the state of our provisions.
~ Here we embarked, and: steered South-East by East
three quarters of a mile. We now saw asmoke on the
shore ; but before we could reach land, the natives had de-
serted their camp, which appeared to be erected for no
more than two families. My two Indians were instantly
dispatched in search of them, and, by following their
tracks, they soon overtook them; but their language was
mutually unintelligible ; and all attempts to produce a
friendly communication were fruitless. They no sooner
perceived my young men than they prepared their bows
and arrows and made signs for them not to advance; and
they thought it prudent to desist from proceeding, though
not before the natives had discharged five arrows at them,
which, however, they avoided, by means of the trees.
nen they returned with this account, I very much re-
gretted that I had not accompanied them : as these people
x

170 Journal of a Voyage through the

could not be at any very great distance, I took Mr. Macs
kay, and one of the Indians with me in order to, overtake
them, but they had got so far that it would have been im-
prudent ; in me to have followed them. My Indians, who,

I believe, were terrified at the manner in which theae na-

tives received them, informed me that, besides their. bows,
arrows, and spears, they. were armed with long knives, |
and that they accompanied their strange antics with meq
nacing actions and loud shoutings. On. my return, I found

my people indulging their curiosity in examining hp bags

and baskets which the natives had left behind them. Some
of them contained their fishing-tackle; such as nets, lines,
&c. others of a smaller size were filled with a red earthy
with which they paint themselves. In several of the ba 7
there were also sundry articles of which we did not know.

the use. I prevented my men from taking any of them 5
and for a few articles ‘of mere curiosity, which I took my

self, I left such things in exchange as would be much —
useful to their owners.

At four we left this place, proceeding with the strealal
South-East three quarters of a mile, East-South-East on

mile, South three quarters of a mile, South-South-We
one mile, South by East three quarters of a mile,. South»
South-East one mile, South-South-West two miles, Souths |
South-East three miles and a quarter, ; East by North one
mile, South-South-East one mile anda quarter, witha
rapid, South-South- West three quarters of a mile, South
one mile andan half, South-East one mile and a quarter,
South three quarters ee a mile, and South- South- East one
mile and anhalf. Athalf past seven we landed for t
night, where a small river flowed in from the right. Th :
weather was showery, accompanied with several loud claps.
of thunder. The banks were overshadowed by lofty ie
and wide-spreading cedars. “a
. Thursday 20. The morning was ae and. at half
past four-we proceeded with a South wind, South-East by
East two miles, South-South-East two ab and. an hal >
and South-South-West two miles. ‘The fog was so thic
that we could not see the length of our canoe, which rene
dered our progress dangerous, as we might have come
suddenly upon a cascade or violent rapid. Our next
course was West-North-West two miles and an half, which
comprehended a rapid. Being close in with the left bank
of the river, we perceived two red deer at the Vi a

North-West Continent of America. 171

of sail sine: we killed one of them, and wounded the

_ other, which ‘was very small. We now landed, and the
Indians followed the wounded animal, which they soon
‘caught, and would have shot another in the woods, if our
dog, who followed them, had not disturbed it. From the
“number of their tracks it appeared that they abounded in
_ this country. They are not so large as the elk of the
Peace River, but are the real red deer, which I never saw
inthe North, though I have been told that they are to be
found in great numbers in the plains along the Red, or As-
siniboin River. The bark had been stripped off many of
the spruce-trees, and carried away, as I presumed, by the
‘Watives, for the purpose of covering their cabins. We
"now got the venison on board, and continued our voyage
' South-West one mile, South a mile and an half, and West
one mile. Here the country changed its appearance; the
“banks were but of a moderate height, from whence the
ground continued gradually rising to a considerabie dis-
“tance, covered with poplars and cypresses, but without
‘any kindofunderwood. ‘There are also several low points
which the river, that is here about three hundred yards in
“breadth, sometimes overflows, and are shaded with the
Hard, se soft birch, the spruce, and the willow. For
some distance before we came to this part of the river, our
“wiew was confined within very rugged, irregular, and lofty
3 aie which were varied with the poplar, different kinds
| Spruce- -fir, small birch-trees, cedars, alders, and several
Rasééics- of the willow. Our next course was Seuthe West
by West six miles, when we landed at a deserted house,
‘which was the only Indian habitation of this kind that I
had seen on this side of Mechilimakina.’ It was about
thirty feetlong, and twenty wide, with three doors, three
feet high by one foot and an half in breadth. From this
and other circumstances, it appears to have been construct-.
ved for three families. There were also three fire-places,
Yat equal distances from each other; and the beds were on
either side of them. Behind the beds was a narrow space
1the form of a manger, and somewhat elevated, which
‘was appropriated to the purpose of keeping fghs Bhs
‘wail of the house, which was five feet in height, was
formed of very strait spruce timbers, brought close to-
isos and laid into each other at the corners. ‘The roof
S supported by a ridge pole, resting on two upright forks
“of about ten feet high; that and the wall support a certain

172 ‘ournalofa Voyage through the

number of spars, which are covered with spruce bark 5»
and the whole attached and secured by the fibres of the’
cedar. One of the gable ends is closed with split boards;
the other with poles. Large rods are also fixed across
the upper part of the building, where fish may hang and
dry. To give the walls additional strength, upright posts
are fixed inthe ground, at equal distances, both within
and without, of the same height as the wall, and firmly
attached with bark fibres. Openings appear also between
the logs in the wall, for the purpose, as I conjectured,
of discharging their arrows at a besieging enemy; they
would be needless for the purpose of giving light, which
is sufficiently afforded by fissures between the logs of the —
building, so that it appeared to be constructed merely for
a summer habitation. There was nothing further to ate
tract our attention in or about the house, except a large —
machine, which must have rendered the taking off the |
roof absolutely necessary, in order to have introduced it.
It was of a cylindrical. form, fifteen feet long, and four
feet and an half in diameter: one end was square, like”
the head of acask, and a conical machine was fixed in-
wards to the other end, of similar dimensions.; at the
extremity of which was an opening of about seven inches’
diameter. This machine was certainly contrived to set
in the river, to catch large fish; and very well adapted to’
that purpose ; as when they are. once in, it must be im-_
possible for them to get out, unless they should have
strength sufficient to break through it. It was made of
long pieces of split wood, rounded to the size of a small
finger, and placed at the distance of an inch asunder, on
six hoops; to this was added a kind of boot of the same
materials, into which it may be supposed that the fish are
driven, when they are to be taken out. The house was
left in such apparent order as to mark the design of its ~
owners to return thither. It answered in every particular.
the description given us by our late guide, except that it:
was not situated on an island..

We left this place, and steered South by East one oa
and quarter when we passed where there had been another
house, of which the ridge-pole and supporters alone re=
mained: the ice had probably carried away the body of
it. The bank was at this time covered with water, anda
small river flowed in on the left. Ona point we observed
an erection that had the appearance of a tomb ; it was in

North-West Continent of America 173

‘an oblong form; covered, and very neatly walled with

bark. A pole was fixed near it, to which, at the height

of ten or twelve feet, a piece of bark was attached, which

was probably a memorial, or symbol of distinction. Our
next course was South by West two miles and an half,
when we saw an house on an island, South-East by East
one mile and three quarters, in which we observed another
island, with an house upon it. A river also flowed from
the right, and the land was high and sar and wooded
with the epinette.

» Our canoe was now become so crazy, that it was a mat-
ter of absolute necessity to construct another ; and as from
the appearance of the country there was reason to expect
that bark was to be found, we landed at eight, ‘with the
hope of procuring it. I accordingly dispatched four men
with that commission, and at twelve they returned with a
sufficient quantity to make the bottom of a canoe of five
fathom in length, and four feet and an half in height. At
noon I had an observation, which gave me 53. 17. 28.
North latitude. *

_ We now continued our voyage South-East by South
one mile an an half, East-South-East one mile, East-
North-East half a aisles South-East two miles, South-East
by South one mile, South-East six miles, and East-North-
East. Here the river narrows between two steep rocks,
and a rapid succeeded, which was so violent that we did
not venture to run it. I therefore ordered the loading
to be taken out of the canoe, but she was now become so
heavy that the men preferred running the rapid to the
carrying her overland. Though I did not altogother ap-
prove of their proposition, I was unwilling to oppose it.
Four of them undertook this hazardous expedition, and I
hastened to the foot of the rapid with great anxiety, to
wait the event, which turned out as I expected. ‘The
water was so strong, that although they kept clear of the
rocks, the canoe filled, and in this state they drove half way
down the rapid, but fortunately she did not overset ; and
having got her into an eddy, they emptied her, and in an
half-drowned condition arrived safe on shore. The carry-
-ing-place is about half a mile over, with an Indian path
across it. Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, saw some’deer
on an island above the rapid; and had that discovery been

l¢ before the departure of the canoe, there is little

dowbt but we should have added a considerable quantity

ae Fournal of a Voyage through the

of venison to our stock of provisions. Our vessel was iw
such a wretched condition, as I have already observed;
that it occasioned a delay of three hours to putvher ina
condition to proceed. At length we continued our. former
course, East-North-East a mile and an half, when we
passed an extensive Indian encampment ; East-Southe
East one mile, where a shall river appeared on the lefts
South-East by South one mile and three quarters, East b
South halfa mile, East by North one mile, and saw another
house on an island; South half a mile, West three quars
ters of a mile, South-West half a mile, where the cliffs of -
white and red clay appeared like the ruins of ancient
castles. Our canoe now veered gradually to East- North,
East one mile and an half, when we landed ina ‘storm of
rain and thunder, where we perceived the remains of Ing
dian houses. It was impossible to determine the wind in
any part of the day, as it came a-head in all our directionss
Friday 21. As Iwas very sensible of the difficulty of
procuring provisions in this country, { thought it prudent
to guard against any possibility of distress of that kind om
our return ; I therefore ordered ninety pounds weight of
pemmican to be buried in an hole, sufficiently deep to ad=
mit of a fire over it without doing any injury to our hids
den treasure, and which would, at the same time, secure”
it from the natives of the conn ti or the wild animals of
the woods. i
‘The morning was very cloudy, and at four o sib we:
renewed our voyage, steering South by East one mile andi
a quarter, Hastdponithe Kast halfa mile, South by East one
mule and an half, Kast half a mile, South-East two miles)
where.a large net: flowed in from the left, and a smal or;
one from the right. We then continued South by Wi
three quarters of a mile, East by South a mile and an half,
South three quarters of a mile, South-East by East omer
mile, South by East half a mile, South-East three quarters’
of a mile, South-East by Sedat: half a mile, South- Fete
a ast half a mile, the cliffs of blue and yellow clay, display
ng the same grotesque shapes as those which we pas
see rday, South-South-Hast a mile and an half, South by
East two miles. The latitude by obsceumiies was 52474)
51. North. ee
Here we perceived a small new canoe, that bial baton
drawn up to the edge of the woods, and soon after anéther
appeared, with one manin it , which came out of a spall.

a North-West Continent of America. 175

river. “He no sooner saw us than he gave the whoop, to
alarm his friends, who immediately appeared on the
bank, armed with bows and. arrows, and spears. They ©
were thinly habited, and displayed the most outrageous
antics. ‘hough they were certainly in a state of great
apprehension, they manifested by their gestures that they
were resolved to attack us, if we should venture to land.
cries, ordered the men to stop the way of the canoe,
and even tocheck her drifting with the current, as it
would have been extreme folly to have approached these
savages before their, fury had in some degree subsided.
My interpreters, who understood their language, inform-
ed me that they threatened us with instant death if we
drew nigh the shore; and they followed the menace by
_ discharging a volley of arrows, some of which fell short of
the canoe, and others passed over it, so that they fortu-
ly did us no injury. As we had ‘been carried by the
ead below the spot where the Indians were, I ordered
my people to paddle to the apposite side of the river,
hout the least appearance of confusion, so that they
ee me abreast of them. My interpreters, while we
were within hearing, had done every thing in their power
to pacity them, but in vain... We also observed that they
had sent off a canoe with two men, down the river, as we
concluded, to communicate their we and procure assist-
ance. This circumstance determined me to leave no means:
untried, that might engage us in a friendly intercourse
with them, before they acquired additional security and.
| confidence, by the arrival of their relations and neigh-
bours, to whom their situation would be shortly notified.
I therefore formed the following adventurous project,
ich was happily crowned with success. I left the ca-
, and walked by myself along the beach, in order to
| induce some of the natives to come to me, which I ima-
gined they might be disposed to do, when they saw me
alone, without any apparent possibility of receiving assist~
ance from my people, and would consequently imagine
that a communication with me was not a service of danger.
| At the same time, in order to possess the utmost security
| of which my situation was susceptible, I directed one of
| the Indians to slip into the woods, with my gun and his
| own, and to conceal himself from their discovery ; he also
| had orders to keep as near me as possible, without being
| Seen; and if any of the natives should venture across, and

176 ‘ournal of a Voyage through the

attempt to shoot me from the water, it was his instrucs
tions to lay him low: at the same time he was particularly

enjoined not to fire till I had discharged one or both of the —

pistols that [carried in my belt. If, however, any of them

were to land, and approach my person, he was immediately
to join me. In the mean time my other interpreter assured

them, that we entertained the most friendly disposition,
which I confirmed by such signals as I conceived would.
be comprehended by them. Thad not, indeed, been lor
at my station, and my Indian in ambush behind me, when
two of the natives came off in a canoe, but stopped when’
they had got within an hundred yards of me. I made
signs for them to land, and as an inducement, displayed”
looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring trinkets. |
length, but with every mark of extreme apprehension, they

approached the shore, stern foremost, but would not ven-.

ture to land. I now made them a present of some beads,
with which they were going to push off, when I renewed

my entreaties, and, after some time, prevailed on them to”

come ashore, and sit down by me. My hunter now thought
it right to join me, and created some alarm in my new ac-
quaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and I had
the satisfaction to find that he and these people perfectly
understood each other. I instructed him to say every
thing that might tend to sooth their fears, and win their
confidence. I expressed my wish to conduct them to our
canoe, but they declined my offer ; and when they obsery~"
ed some of my people coming towards us, they requested
me to let them return; and I was so well satisfied with:
progress I had made i in my intercourse with them, haa
did not hesitate a moment in complying with their desire.
During their short stay, they observed us, and every thing’
about us, with a mixture of admiration and astonishment.
We could plainly distinguish that their friends received
them with great joy on their return, and that the articles
which they carried back with them, were examined witha
general and eager curiosity ; they also appeared to hold a
consultation, which lasted. about a quarter of an hour, and.
the result was, an invitation to come over to them, which
was cheerfully accepted. Nevertheless, on our landing,
they betrayed evident signs of confusion, which arose,

probably from the quickness of our movements, as the’

prospect of a friendly communication had so cheered the
spirits of my people, that they paddled across the river

North-West. Continent of America. 177

with the utmost expedition. The two men, however,
_ who had been with us, appeared very naturally, to possess
the greatest share of courage on the occasion, and were
_ ready to receive us on our landing; but our demeanor
soon dispelled all their apprehensions, and the most fa-
“miliar communication took place between us. _When I
had secured their confidence, by the distribution of trin-
kets among them, and treated the children with sugar, I
- instructed my interpreters to collect every necessary in-
formation in their power to afford me.
According to their account, this river, whose course
dbs very extensive, runs towards the mid- day sun; and
that at its mouth, as they had been informed, white peo-.
ple were building houses. ‘They represented i its current
to be uniformly strong, and that in three places it was al-
together impassable, from the falls and rapids, which
poured along between. perpendicular rocks that were
“much higher, and more rugged than any we had yet
seen, and would not admit of any passage over them.
But besides the dangers and difficulties of the navigation,
they added, that we should have to encounter the inhabit-.
“ants of the country, who were very numerous.. They
also represented their immediate neighbours as a very
malignant race, who lived in large subterraneous recesses ;
‘and when they were made to understand that it was our
design to proceed 'to the sea, they dissuaded us from pro-
‘secuting our intention, as we should certainly become a
“sacrifice to the savage spirit of the natives. These peo-
ple they described as possessing iron, arms, and utensils,
which they procured from their neighbours to the West-
ward, and were obtained by a commercial progress from
people like ourselves who brought them in great canoes.
+ Such an account of our situation, exaggerated as it
‘might be in some points, and erroneous in others, was
‘sufficiently alarming, and awakened very paintul reflec-
tions ; ; nevertheless it did not operate on my mind so as to
uce any change in my original determination. My
first object, therefore, was to persuade two of these peo-
ple to accompany me, that they might secure for us a fa-
vourable reception from their neighbours. To this pro-
position they assented, but expressed some degree of dis-
‘Satisfaction at the immediate departure, for which we
‘were making preparation; but when we were ready to
‘enter the canoe, a small one was seen doubling the point
: ¥

yr ay

e

£78 four nal of a Voyaze through the 4

below, with three men in it. We thought it prudent |
wait for their arrival, and they proved to be some of thet _
relations, who had yeebived the alarm from the messens
gers, which I have already mentioned as having been sent

down the river for that purpose, and who had passed o

as we were afterwards informed, to extend the nvidia :
our arrival. Though these people saw us in the midst of
their friends, they displayed the most menacing actions,
and hostile postures. At length, ‘however; vias wild,
savage lak appeared to subside, and they were W piehideccs

whose agitations had been less frequent than fade of hig
companions, and who was treated with particular respec
by them all, inquired who we-were, whence we came, —
whither we were going, and what was the motive of our
coming into that country. When his friends had be
him as far as they were able, respecting us, he insta lye

relations below, having been by this time shasnied by 1e% :
messengers, who had been sent for that purpose, ee
certainly oppose our passage, notwithstanding I had two of —
their own people with me. He added, that they would all
of them be here by sun-set, when they would be convinced,
as he was, that we were "good people, and meditated no
ill designs against them. ite hte
Such were the reasons which this Indian ‘me in favour’ 4
of our remaining till the next morning; and they were _
well founded for me to hesitate in comply ring with them; —
besides, by prolonging my stay till the next morning, ' it iy
was probable that I might obtain some important intelli io
gence respecting the country through which I was to bn 4
and the people who inhabited it. I accordingly ordered:
the canoe to be unloaded, taken out of the water, and —
gummed. My tent was also pitched, and the natives —
were now become so familiar, that I was obliged to let
them know my wish to be alone and undisturbed. . ie
- My first application to the native whom I have already _
particularly mentioned, was to obtain from him such a plan ,
of the river as he shouldbe enabled to give me; and he com-
plied with this request with a degree of readiness and in=_
telligence that evidently proved it was by no means a new
business to him.. Inorder to acquire the best informatic
he could communicate, I assured him, if I found his ac
count correct, that I would —- return myself, ‘or §

>

North-West Continent of America. 179

others to them, with such articles as they appeared to
want: particularly arms and ammunition, with which they
would be able to prevent their enemies from invading
them. I obtained, however, no addition to what Talready
_ knew, but that the country below us, as faras he was ac-
-quainted with it, abounded in aie and that the river
pepoduced plenty ok fabs,
Our canoe was now become so weak, leaky, and un-
manageable, that it became a matter of absolute necessity
to construct a new one; and I had been informed, that if
we delayed that important work till we got further down
the river, we should not be able to procure bark. I there-
_ fore dispatched two.of my people, with an Indian, in search
of that necessary material. “(he weather was so cloudy
that I could not get an observation.*
I passed the rest of the day in conversing with these
people: ; they consisted of ‘seven families, containing
eighteen men; they were clad in leather, and had some
beaver and rabbit-skin blankets. They had not been long
arrived in this part of the country, where they proposed
to pass the summer, to catch fish for their winter provi-
sion: for this purpose they were preparing machines
similar to that which we found in the first Indian house
. “we saw and described. ‘I'he fish which they take in them
are large, and only visit this part of the river at certain
seasons. ‘These people differ very little, if at all, either in
_ their appearance, language, or manners, from the Rocky-
| Mountain Indians. The men whom I sent in search of
bark, returned with a certain quantity of it, but of a very
indifferent kind. We were not gratified with the arrival
of any of the natives whom we expected from a lower
% eer’ of the river.

ib * The observation, already mentioned, I got on my return,
Ne ,
co

vy IIL I LS IG

= y

he r '

We

tance.

180 Fournal of a Voyage through the:

ue ar CHAPTER VIII. MERA

Renew our voyage, accompanied by two ie the natives. Ace
_ count of courses. State of the river. Arrive atasubter- —
_ ranean house. See several natives. Brief ea i
- them. Account of our conference with them. Saw other
natives. Description of them. Their conduct, &&c. The
account which they gave of the country. The narra
of a female prisoner. The perplexities of my situation, —
Specimen of the language of two tribes. Change the pide
of my journey. Return up the river. Succession of dan=
gers. and difficulties. Land on an island to build anothe
canoe. : “—.

naa
June, 1793. A bait we , ‘yl ; see
Saya) uk T six in the ere 4 we proceeded on o

gene canoe, made after the eee of the Esquimau ia
and the other inour own. ‘This precaution was necessary.
in a two-fold point of view, as the small canoe. could bee
sent a-head to speak to any of the natives that might | be a
seen down the river, and, thus div ided, would wot be easy —
for them both to make their escape. Mr. Mackay also.
embarked with the Indian, which seemed to afford hi
great satisfaction, and he was thereby ehabled to keep | u
company with diminution of labour. i
Our courses were South-South-East a eet and an hal.
South-East half a mile, South by East four miles and an
half, South-East by South half a mile, South by We:
half a mile, South-East by East one mile, South-South
Westa mile and an half, South by East one mile and a
quarter. The country, on the right, presented a very
beautiful appearance: it rose at first rather abruptly to the
height of twenty-five feet, when the precipice was suc
ceeded by an inclined plain to the foot of another steep
which was followed by another extent of gently-risin of
ground: these objects, which were shaded with groves or
hr, presenting themselves alternately to a considerable d. ise

ve now landed near an house, ee roof of which a

\

North-West Continent of America. 18

_ served several men in the second steep, who displaye ji
same postures and menacing actions as those which w
o.. so lately described. Our conductors went to. i
immediately on an embassy of friendship, and, after avery
vociferous discourse, one of them was parsisaded to come
? tous, but presented a very ferocious.aspect: the rest, who,
_ were seven in number, soon followed his example. 1 hey
held their bows and arrows in their hands, and appeanan in
. their garments, which were fastened round the neck, but
left the right arm free for action. A cord fastened a
blanket, or leather covering under the right arm-pit, so
that it hung upon the left shoulder, and might be occasion-
ally employed as a target, that wouldturn an arrow which
was nearly spent. As soon as they had recovered from
their apprehensions, ten women made their appearance,
but without any children, whom, I imagine, they had seat
& greater distance, to be out of the reach of all possible
danger. I distributed afew presents among them, and
eft my guides to explain to them the object of my journey,
and the @ALndiitiess of my designs, with which they had
themselves been made acquainted; their fears being at
Iength removed, I gave them a specimen of the use to
_ which we applied our fire-arms: at the same time, I calm-
_ed their astonishment, by the assurance, that, though we
could at once destroy those who did us injury, we could
equally protect those who showed us kindness. Our pend
_here did not exceed half an hour, and we left these people
a with favourable impressions of us.

_ From this place we steered East by North half a mile,
iéuth by East three quarters of a mile, and South by West
a mile and an half, when we landed again on seeing some

of the natives on the high ground, whose appearance was
more wild and ferocious than any whom we had yet seen.
Indeed I was under some apprehension that our guides,
_who went to conciliate them to us, would have faiton a
prey to their savage fury. Atlength, however, they were
persuaded to entertain a more favourable opinion of us, and
ey approached us one after another, to the number of
ae men, and several women, I shook hands with
them all, and desired my interpreters to explain that salu-
tation as atoken of friendship. As this was nota place
where we could remain with the necessary convenience,
Ip ‘oposed to proceed further, in search of a more com-
Odious spot. They immediately invited us to pass the

182 Fournal of a Voyage through the

piusbiy at their pea which 1 were at no iti sek ei an

were very numerous, and Tiedaspeheal sowardh eh aa
As we were pushing from the shore, we were very mucl
surprised at hearing a woman pronounce several words
the Knisteneaux language. She proved tobe a Rocky-
Mountain native, so that my interpreters perfectly unde
stood her. She informed: us that her country is at
forks of this river, and. that she had been taken prisoner
the Knisteneaux, who had carried her across the mo
tains. After having passed the greatest part of the st
mer with them, she had contrived to escape, before t
Ahad reached their own country, and had re-crossed
‘mountains, when she expected to meet her own frien
but after suffering all the hardships incident to such
journey, she had been taken by a war-party of the peo
with whom she then was, who had driven her relati
grom the river into the mountains. She had since b
detained by her present husband, of whom she had.
cause to complain: nevertheless she expressed a stro
desire to return to her own people. I presented her }
several useful articles, and desired her to come to n
the lodges, which she readily engaged to do. We ar
thither before the Indians, and landed, as we had promi
ed. It was now neartwelve at noon, but onattemptin
take analtitude I found the angle too great for my sext
‘The natives whom we had already seen, and sev
others, scon joined us, with a greater number of wom
than I had yet seen; but I did not observe the fem
prisoner among them. ‘There were thirty-five of t
and my remaining store of presents was not sullicie
enable me to be very liberalto so many claimants, Am
the men I found four of the adjoining nation, an
Rocky-Mountain Indian, who had been with them
some time. As he was understood by my interpre
and was himself well acquainted with the language ot
strangers, I possessed the means of obtaining every
mation respecting the country, which it might be i
power to afford me. For this purpose I selected an
ly man, from the four strangers, whose countenan
- prepossessed me inhis favour. I stated to these
as 1 had sastheil done to those from whom I hate

: North-West Continent of America. 183

great advantages which they would receive from my
| gecesi termination of it. They expressed themselves
| ‘much satisfied at my communication, and assured
me that they would not deceive me respecting the subject
. ‘my inquiry. An old man also, who appeared to pos-
sess the character of a chief, declared his wish to see me
return to his land, and that his two young daughters should
then be at my dispose. I now proceeded to request the
native, whom [I had particularly selected, to commence
his information, by drawing a sketch of tlie country upon
a large piece of bark, and he immediately entered on the
work, frequently appealing to, and sometimes asking the
advice of, those around him. He described the river as
running to the East of South, receiving many rivers, and
“every six or eight leagues encumbered with falls and rapids,
some of which were very dangerous, and six of them im-
‘practicable. The carrying-places he represented as of
reat length, and passing over hills and mountains. He
. Berea: the lands of three other tribes, in succession, wha
ke different languages. Beyond then He knew nothing
ither of the river or country, only that it was still a long
way to the-sea; and that,’ as he had heard, there was a
Take, before they reached the water; which the natives did
| ‘not drink. As far as his knowledge of the river extended,
the country on either side was level, in many places: with
ut wood, and abounding in red deer, and some of a small
fallow kind: Few of the natives, he Ors would come to
» banks forsome time ; but that at a certain season they
“would arrive there in great numbers, to fish. They now
ocured iron, brass, copper, and trinkets, from the Wests
ward ; but formerly these articles were obtained from the
Tower parts of the river, though in small quantities. A
4 bnife was produced which had been brought from that
quarter. ‘The blade was ten inches long, and an inch and
an half broad, but with a very blunted edge. The handle
was of horn. We understood that this instrument had
been obtained fram white mex, long before they had heard |
that any came to the Westward. One very old man ob-
served, that as long as he could remember, he was told of
white people to the Southward ; and that he had heard,
ugh he did not vouch for the truth of the report, that
e of them had made an attempt to come up the rivers
was destroy ec.

#84 %ournal of a Voyage through the

These people describe the distance across seh country!
as very short to the Western ocean; and according tomy _
own idea, it cannot be above five or six degrees. If the
assertion of Mr. Mears be correct, it cannot be so fang
_as the inland sea which he mentions within Nootka, must.
come as far Eastas 126 West longitude. They assured us
that the road was not difficult, asthey avoided the moun=
tains, keeping along the lowlands between them, many |
parts of which are entirely free from wood. peer
to their account, this way is so often travelled by’ then
that their path is visible throughout the whole journey, —
which lies along small lakes and rivers. It occupied them, |
they said, no more than six nights, to go to where the
meet the people who barter iron, brass, copper, beads, &c.
with them, for dressed leather, and beaver, bear, lynxf
fox, and martin skins. The iron is about eighteen inche
of two-inch bar. To this they give an edge at one end,
and fix it to an handle at right angles, which they emp ie
as an axe. When the iron is worn down, they fabricate
into points for their arrows and spikes. Before they pro= _
cured iron they employed bone and horne for those pur
poses. The copper and brass they convert iato collarsy
arm-bands, bracelets, and other ornaments. They some=
times also point their arrows with those metals. T
had been informed by those whom they meet to tr
with, that the white people, from whom these articles
obtained, were building houses at the distance of thre
days, or two nga journey from the place where they r
last fall. With this route they all appeared to he well
quainted.

Inow requested that they would send for vt ta
prisoner whom I saw yesterday, but I received only ¥
and evasive answers: they probably apprehended,
was our design to take her from them. Iwas, hoy
very much disappointed at being prevented from |
an interview with her, as she might have given me
rect account of the country beyond the forks of the ri
as well as of the pass, through the saad
them. |
My people had listened with great attention to t
lation which had been given me, and it seemed to
opinion, that it would be absolute madness to afte
passage through so many savage and barbarous’
‘My situation may, indeed, be more easily

North-West Continent of America. 185

i

¢ - ‘than expressed: I had no more than thirty days provision
remaining, exclusive of such supplies as I might obtain
Us oo the natives, and the toil of our hunters, which, how-
ever, was so precarious as to be a matter of little depend-
aime ; besides, our ammunition would soon be exhausted,
ticularly our ball, of which we had not more than an.

Ms poe and fifty, and about thirty pounds weight of f shot,

_ which, indeed, might be converted into bullets, though

_ with great waste.

_ The more I heard of the river, the more I was con-

_ vinced it could not empty itself into the ocean to the

_ North of what is called the River of the West,’ so that

_ with its windings, the distance must be very great. Such

being the discouraging circumstances of my situation,

which were now heightened by the discontents of my peo-
ple, I could not but be alarmed at the idea of attempting

to get to the discharge of such a rapid, especially when I

reflected on the tardy progress of my return up it, even if

i. should meet with no obstruction from the natives; a

circumstance not very probable, from the numbers of them
which would then be on the river; and whom I could
have no opportunity of conciliating in my passage down,

- for the reasons which have been already mentioned. At

all events, I must give up every expectation of returning
this season to Athabasca. Such were my reflections at

this period ; but instead of continuing to indulge them, I

determined to proceed with resolution, and set future

events‘at defiance. At the same time I suffered myself
to nourish the hope that I might be able to penetrate with

_ more safety, and in a shorter period, to the ocean by the
inland, western communication.

> Tocarry this project into execution I must have return-

ed aconsiderable distance up the river, which would. ne-

_cessarily be attended with a very serious inconvenience, if

I passed over every other; as in a voyage of this kind, a.

_ Yetrogade motion could not fail to cool the ardour, slacken

ee zeal, and weaken the confidence of those, who have

MO greater inducement in the undertaking, ties to follow
the conductor of it. Such was the state of my mind at

‘this period, and such the circumstances by which it was

_ distressed and distracted.

__. To the people who had given me the foregoing informa-
on, 1 presented some beads, which they preferred to any
other articles in my possession, and I recompensed in the

zZ

186

same manner two of them who communicated to me th
following vocabulary in the Linge of ~ fore amg an

Atnah tribes.

Grochashbe!
Iron,

Fire,

Water,
Stone,

Bow,
Arrow,

Yes,

Plains,

Come here,

- The Atnah language has no affinity.to any with w
am acquainted; but the Nagailer differs very little
that spoken by the Beaver Indians, and is aout = :

o

Fournal of a Ve oyage through the

Fhe Nagailer,

or Carrier-Indians.

Nah,
Thigah,
Gough,
Nenzeh,
Thie,
Dekin,

-Lah,

Km,
Thoula,
Lach,
Dinay,
-Chigoui,
Zah,
Yezey,
Sleing,
Thidnu,
Thliisitch,
Coun,"
Tou,
Zeh,
Nettuny,
Igah, ©
Nest ,
Thoughoud,

Andezei,

as that of the’ Chepewyans.

We hada thunder storm with heavy rain; ain wh
evening when it had subsided, the Indians amused us
singing and dancing, in which: they were joined
Four men now arrived, whom we hi
yet seen; they had left their families at some | distance if
the country, and expressed a desire that we should vii

young women.

them there.

Sunday 98:

After a ithe night, I cited ia :
together, from whom I yesterday received the int

Cc hliough. -

Scapacay.

—Schugh.
-Otkoy-Beh.

| Soucoumang. — |

Thlaelyeh,

The Atn: ees re

or Chin-Indi lians.

Thloustin.
Cahowdin. ih

Pisax.

Shedzay.
Calietha.
Squacht. '
Dewhasjisk. —
Ithlinah.
Scuynlouch.
Srnec :

Scacah. ph
Squaiquais. =a
Teuck.
rhe se
Ishehomeah. —
Isquoinah.
Squaili.
Amat

Shilela.

North-West Continent of America. \ 187

‘might obtain some additional information. From their
former accountthey did not make the least deviation , but
_ they informed me further, that where they feft this river,
a small one from the Westward falls into it, which-was
navigable for their canoes during four days, and~irom
_ thence they slept but two nights, to get to the people with
_ whom they trade, and who have wooden canoes much
_ darger than ours, in which they go down a river to the sea.
_ They continued to inform me, that if I went that way, we
- must leave our own canoe behind us; but they thought it
* probable that those people would furnish us with another.
_ From thence they stated the distance to be only one day’s
_ voyage with the current to the lake whose water is nauseous,
_ and where they had heard that great canoes came two win-
_ ters ago, and that the people belonging to them, brought
ahha quantities of goods and built houses.
At the commencement of this conversation, I was very
Pswch surprised by the following question from one of the
_ Indians: * What,” caida he, ‘‘can be the: reason
*¢ that you are so particular and anxious in your inquiries
7“ of us respecting a knowledge of this country: do not
' you white men know every ‘thing i in the world?” This
‘ _ interrogatory was so very unexpected, that it occasioned
some hesitation before I could answerit. At length, how-
_ ever, I replied, that we certainly were acquainted with the
_ principal circumstances of every part of the world; that I
_ knew where the seais, and where | myself then was, but
_ that [ did not exactly understand what obstacles might in-
_ terrupt mein getting to it, with which, he and his rela-
tions must be well acquainted, as they had so frequently
_ Surmounted them. Thus I fortunately preserved the im-
_ pression in their minds, of the superiority of white people
over themselves.
__ Itwas now, however, pining necessary that I should.
come to a final Pe esonination which route totake; and no
dong interval of reflection was employed, before I preferred
_ to go over land: the comparative shortness and security
of such a journey, were alone sufficient to determine me.
_ LT accordingly proposed to two of the Indians to accompany
me, and one of them readily assented to my proposition.
_ I now called those of my people about me, who had not
. en present at my consultation with the natives ; and after
lassing a warm eulogium on their fortitude, patience, and

i linids had been already mentioned, m the hope that I
7

188 Fournal of a Voyage through the

perseverance, I stated the difficulties that threatened our —
continuing to’ navi gate the river, the length of time it”
would require, and the scanty provision we: had for such E
a voyage: I then proceeded for the foregoing reasons to —
propose a shorter route, by trying the over-land road to 5
the sea. At the same time, as I knew from experience, —
the difficulty of retaining guides, and as many circums
stances might occur to prevent our progress in that direc. —
tion, I declared my resolution not to attempt it, unless
they would engage, if we could not after all proceed over .
land, to return with me, and continue our voyage to the —
discharge of the waters, whatever the distance might be.
At all events, I declared, in the most solemn manner, thagy
I would not abandon my design of reaching the sea, if.
anade the attempt alone, and that I did not vi of ree ‘
turning in safety to my friends. 2
This proposition met with the most zealous return, and
they unanimously assured me, that they were as willing
now as they had ever been, to abide by my resolutions, _
whatever they might be, and to follow me wherever I
should go. I therefore requested them to prepare for an
immediate departure, and at the same time gave notice to”
the man who had engaged to be our guide, to be in readi«
ness to accompany us. When our determination to” res
turn up the river was made known, several of the native es
took a very abrupt departure ; but to those who remained, —
I gave a few useful articles, explaining to them at the san
time, the advantages that would — to them, if their
relations conducted me to the sea, along such a road ak
they had described. I had already given a moose skin t
some of the women for the purpose of making shoes
which were now brought us; they were well sewed but ill
shaped, and a few beads. were.considered as a sufficient —
remuneration for the skill employed on them. Mr. Mac»
kay, by my desire, engraved my name, and the date of |
the year on atree. vip alti es. )
When we were ready to depart, our r guide proposed, for,
the sake of expedition, to go over land to his dodges ene a

paration Sais his journey. I did not altogether relish his i
design, but was obliged to consent; I thought it prudent,
‘however, to. send. Mr.. Mackay, and the two India
along with him. | Our place of rendezvous, was the sub-—
terraneous house which we passed yesterday. © by

eet

North-West Continent of America. 189

P At ten in the morning we embarked, and went up the
current much faster than I expected with such a crazy
_ vessel as that which carried us. We met our people at
__ the house as had been appointed: but the Indian still cons
_ tinued to’ prefer going on by land, and it would have been
_ meediless for me to oppose him. He proceeded, there-
- fore, with his former companions, whom I désivedi to
os him in good humour by every reasonable gratifica-
tion. They were also furnished with a few articles that
_ might be of use if they should meet with strangers.
© Ina short time after we had left the etal I saw a
_wodden canoe coming down the river, with three natives
_ im it, who, as soon as they perceived us, made for the
shore, and hurried into the woods. On passing their
_ vessel, we discovered it to be one of those which we had.
“seen at the lodges. A severe gust of wind, with rain,
“came from the South-South-East. This we found to be
"a very prevalent wind in these parts. We soon passed
_ another wooden canoe drawn stern foremost on the shore;
a circumstance which we had not hitherto observed. The
“men worked very hard, and though I imagined we went
- ashead very fast, we could not reach the lodges, but landed
for the night at nine, close to the encampment of two
_ families of the natives whom we had formerly seen at the
“dodges. I immediately went and sat down with them,
when they gave some roasted fish; two of my. men who
i allowed me were gratified also with some of their pro-
Visions. The youngest of the two natives now quitted
_ the shed, and did not return during the time: _[ remained
’ there. I endeavoured to explain to the other by signs,
* e cause of my sudden return, which he appeared to un-
derstand. In the mean time my tent was pitched, and
_ on my going to it, I was rather surprised that he did not
follow me, as he had been constantly with me during the
y and night I had passed with his party on going down.

_ We, however, went to rest in a state of perfect security ;
nor had we the least apprehension for the safety of our
ppeeple who were a by land.

ing, ney passed by the Indian hut, which eee ina
4 state of perfect tranquillity. We soon came in sight of
the point where we first saw the natives, and at eight were
much surprised and disappointed at seeing Mr. Mackay,
d our two Indians coming alone from the ruins of: an

%

190 Journal of a Voyage through the’ 3

house that had been partly carried away by the ice arid
water, ata short distance below the place where we had
appointed to meet. Nor was our surprise and apprehens — 4
sion diminished by the alarm which was painted in their
countenances. When we had landed, they informed me >
that they had taken refuge in that place, with the determis
nation to sell their lives, which they considered in the
mast imminent danger, as dear as-possible. In a very
short time after they had left us, they met a party of the
Indians, whom we had known at this place, and were
probably those whom we had seen to land from their canoe. —
They appeared to be in a state of extreme rage, and had
their bows bent, with their arrows across them. ‘The.
guide stopped to ask them some questions, which my peos
ple did not understand, and then set off with his utmost
speed. Mr. Mackay, however, did not leave him till
they were both exhausted with running. When the young:
man came up, he then said, that some treacherous design —
was meditated against edie, as he was induced to believe
from the declaration of the natives, who told him that they
were going to do mischief, but refused to name the enemys
The guide then conducted them through very bad ways,
as fast as they could run; and when he was desired ta
slacken his pace, he answered that they might follow hint
in any manner they pleased, but that he was impatient to
get to his family, in order to prepare shoes, and other-nes
cessaries, for his journey. They did not, however, think
it prudent to quit him, and he would not stop till ten at
night. On passing a track that was but lately made, they
began to be seriously alarmed, and on inquiring of the
suide where they were, he pretended not to understand
them. They then all laid down, exhausted with fatigue;
and without any kind of covering: they were cold, wets,
and hungry, but dared not light a fire, from the apprehens
sionofanenemy. ‘his comfortless spot they left at
dawn of day, and, on their arrival at the lodges, fou
them deserted ; the property of the Indians being se
tered about, as if abandoned forever. The guide the
made two orthree trips into the woods, calling aloud, an
bellowing like a madman. At length he set off in thes
direction as they came, and had not since appeared. Th
heighten their misery, as they did not find us at th
appointed, they concluded that we were all destroyec
had already formed their plan to take to the <r a!

ca - North-West Continent of America. 192

ross in as direct a line as they could proceed, to the
e waters of the Peace River, a scheme which could only be
i suggested by despair. They intended to have waited for
us tillnoon, andif we did not appear by that time, to
- have: entered without a delay on their desperate
expedition.

_. This alarm among the natives was a very unexpected
as well as perilous event, and my powers of conjecture

- were exhausted in searching for the cause of it. A general
panic seized all around me, and any further prosecution

_ of the voyage was now considered by them as altogether

_ hopeless and impracticable. - But without paying the least

_ attention to their opinions or surmises, I ordered them to

take every thing out of the canoe, except six packages:

Aiehen that was done, I ‘left four men to take care of the.
iading, and returned with the others to our camp of last
night, where I hoped to find the two men, with their fami-
lies, whom we had seenthere, and to be able to bring them
to lodge with us, when I should wait the issue of this
Mysterious business. This project, however, was disap-
_ pointed, for these people had quitted their. sheds in the
silence of the night, and had not taken a single article of
_ their property with them.

_» These perplexing circumstances made a seta impression
en my mind, not as to our immediate safety, for I enter-_
tained not the least apprehension of the Indians I had hi-
therto seen, even if their whole force should have been
_ combined to attack us, but these untoward events seemed
_tothreaten the prosecution of my journey; andI could
‘not reflect on the possibility of such a disappointment but
with sensations little short of agony. Whatever might
have been the wavering disposition of the people on former
occasions, they were now decided in their opinions as to

the necessity of returning without delay; and when we
“came back to them, -their cry was—‘ Let us re-embark,
and be gone.” ‘This, however, was not my design, anal
in amore peremptory tone than I usually employed, they
were ordered to unload the canoe, and take her out of the
Water. On examining our property, several articles ap-
g fitared to be missing, which the Indians must have pur-
foined , and yataig them were an axe, two ‘knives, and
ue young men’s bag of medicines. We now took a posi-
Bo on that was the best calculated for defence, got our arms
complete order, filled each man’s flask of powder, and

| Fournal of a Voyage through the

distributed an hundred bullets, which were all that res
mained, while some were employed in melting down shot
to make more. The weather was so cloudy that. I had |
not an opportunity of taking an observation. ;
While we were employed 1 in making these rieetions: i .
we saw an Indian in a canoe come down the river, and —
land at the huts, which he began’ to examine. -On- per-_
ceiving us he stood still, as if ina state of suspense, when —
I instantly dispatched one of my Indians towards. him, but
no persuasions could induce him to have confidence inus;_
he even threatened that he would hasten to join his friends, ©
who would come and killus. At the conclusion of. this. i
‘menace he disappeared. On the return of my young man, —
with this account of the interview, I pretended to discre-
dit the whole, and attributed it to his own apprehensions:
sedhalarcans ool his, however, he denied, and.asked, witha
look and tone of resentment, whether he had ever told mea
lie? Though he was but a young man, he said, he’had
been on war excursions before he came with me, omni, that
he should no longer consider me as a wise japan which he i
had hitherto done. oe 2 oie
To add to our distresses we aus not an ounce of. gum
for the reparation of the canoe, and not one of the men
had sufficient courage to venture into the woods to. collect
it. In this perplexing situation I entertained the hope
that in the course of the night some of the natives would
return, to take away a part at least of the things which
they had left vicaind them, as they had gone away without
the covering necessary to defend them from the weather
and the flies. I therefore ordered the canoe to be loaded, |
and dropped to an old house, one side of which, with it 5
roof, had been carried away by the water ; but the three
remaining angles were sufficient to shelter us from the
woods. I then ordered two strong piquets to be driven
into the ground, to which the canoe was fastened, so that
if we were hard pressed we had only to step on board a
push of. We were under the necessity of making sper
to keep off the swarms of flies, which would have other
wise tormented us; but we did not venture to. “excite 7
blaze, as it would have been a mark for the arrows of the
enemy. Mr. Mackay and myself, with three men k
alternate watch, and allowed the Indians to do as they
fancied. I ranketibdinat watch, and the others laid
in their clothes by us. I nig 0 placed: a centinel at as

ie
ig

North-West Continent of America. 198

_ distance, who was relieved every hour. The weather was
al with showers of rain.
-Tuesday25. Atone I called up the other watch, and
4 laid down to a smail portion of broken rest. At fe I
arose, and as the situation which we left yesterday was
_ preferable to that which we then occupied, I determined
toreturn toit. On our arrival Mr. Mackay informed me
that the men had expressed their dissatisfaction to him in
‘avery unreserved manner, and had in very strong terms
declared their resolution to follow me no further in my
proposed enterprize. I did not appear, however, to have
received such communications from him, and continued
to employ my whole thoughts in contriving means to bring
about a reconciliation with the natives, which alone would
enable me to procure guides, without whose assistance it
would be impossible for me to proceed, when my darling
project would end in disappointment.

At twelve we saw a nian coming with the stream upona
ehec, and he must have discovered us before we perceived
him, as he was working very hard to get to the opposite

_shore, where he soon landed, and instantlv fled into the
woods. Inow had a meridional altitude, which gave 60.
_ 23. natural horizon (the angle being more than the sextant
could measure with the artificial horizon) one mile and an
half distant; and the eye five feet above the level of the
: peater, gave 52. 47.51. North latitude.

. While I was thus employed, the men loaded the canoe
ippichout having received any orders from me, and as this
was the first time they had ventured to act in such a de-
cided manner, I naturally concluded, that they had. pre-

concerted a plan for their return. I ‘thought it prudent,
however, to take no notice of this transaction, and to wait
the issue of future circumstances. At this moment our
Indians perceived a person in the edge of the woods above
us, and they were immediately dispatched to discover who
itwas. After ashort absence they returned with a young
woman whom we had seen before: her language was not
clearly comprehended by us, so that we could uot learn
from her, at least with any degree of certainty, the cause
of this unfortunate alarm that had taken place among the
Natives. She told us that her errand was, to fetch some
_ things which she had left behind her ; and one of the dogs
whom we found here, appeared to acknowledge her as his
mistress. We treated her with great kindness, gave her

aA

194 Fournal of a Voyage through the

something to eat, and added a present of such articles a8 _
we thought might please her. On her expressing. a wish
to leave us, we readily consented to her departure, and ine
dulged the hope that her reception would imduce the'niad *
tives to return in peace, and give us an opportunity: to cons — i
vince them, that we had no hostile designs whatever against :
them. On here us, she went up the river without taking: |
a single article of her own, and the dog followed. The
wind was chan geable throughout the day, and on weg |
several showers in the course of it. ah
Phong a very apparent anxiety prevailed among the ;
people for their departure, I appeared to be wholly mate
tentive to it, and at eight in the evening I ordered four
men to step into the canoe, which had been loaded for
several hours, and drop down to our guard-house, and —_
command was immediately obeyed: the rest of us 7
ceeded there by land. When I was yet at a éousidensiill
distance from the house, and thought it impossible for an
arrow to reach it, having a bow and a quiver in my handy
I very imprudently let fly an arrow, when, to my astonishs —
ment and infinite alarm, I heard it strike a log of the
house. The men who had just landed, imagined that
they were attacked by an enemy from the woods. Their
confusion was in proportion to their imaginary danger,
and on my arrival i found that the arrow had passed within —
a foot of one of the men; though it had no point, the
weapon, incredible as it may appear, had entered an hard, |
dry log of wood upwards of an inch. But this was not all: |
for the men readily availed themselves of this circums
stance, to remark upon the danger | of remaining in the ”
power of a people possessed of such means of destruction.
Mr. Mackay having the first watch, I laid myself down
in my cloak. — a
Wednesday 26. About midnight a rustling noise was
heard in the woods which created a general alarm, and I
was awakened to be informed of the circumstance, but) |
heard nothing. At one I took my turn of the watch, andy
our dog continued unceasingly to run backwards and fore
wards along the skirts of the wood ina state of restle:
vigilance. At two in the morning the centinel informed:
me, that he saw something like an human figure creeping) —
along on all-fours about fifty paces above us. Aftersome: ;
time had passed in our search, I at length discovered that
his information was true, and it appeared. to me akin,

~ \

é

: | North-West Continent of America. 195)

bear had occasioned the alarm; but when day appeared,

i it proved to be an old, grey-hair ed, blind man, who had

been compelled to: leave his hiding-place by extreme
_ hunger, being too infirm to join in the flight of the natives
oo he, belonged. When I put my hand on this ob-

t of decaying nature, his alarm was so great, that I ex

ected it would have thrown him into convulsions. I im-
Drcdiaseis led him to our fire which had been just lighted,
_ and gave him something to eat, which he much wanted, as
he had not tasted food for two days. When his hunger

4 was satisfied, and he had got warm and composed, I re-

- quested him to acquaint me with the cause oi that alarm
“which had taken place respecting us among his relations
and friends, whose regard we appeared to have conciliated
but a few days past. He replied, that very soon after we
had left them, some natives arrived from above, who in-
formed them that we were enemies; and our unexpected
return, in direct contradiction to our own declarations,
confirmed them in that opinion. They were now, he said,

so scattered, that a considerable time would elapse, before

they could meet again. We gave him the real history of

our return, as wellas of the desertion of our guide, and,

_ at the same time, stated the impossibility of our proceed-
- ing, unless we procured a native to conduct us. He re-
_ plied, that if he had not lost his sight, he would with the
greatest readiness have accompanied us on our journey.
_ He also confirmed the accounts which we had received of
the country, and the route to the Westward. I did not
_ neglect to employ every argument in my power, that he
_ might be persuaded of our friendly dispositions to the in-
_ habitants wheresoever we might meet them.

_» At sun-rise we perceived a canoe with one man in it on
the opposite side of the river, and at our request, the blind
man called to him to come tous, but he returned no an-
_ swer, and continued his course as fast as he could paddle
_ down the current. He was considered as a spy by my
_ men, and I was confirmed in that opinion, when I saw a

~ wooden canoe drifting with the stream close in to the other

_ shore, where it was more than probable that some of the

Natives might be concealed. It might, therefore, have
been. an useless enterprize, or perhaps fatal to the future
success of our undertaking, if we had pursued these people,
as they might, through fear, have employed their arms
against us, and provoked us to retaliate.

\

196, Fournal of a Voyage through the

. The old man informed me, that some of peers i
om I had seen here were gone up the river, and those — |
whom I saw below had left their late station to gather a

root in the plains, which, when dried, forms a consider- i
able article in their winter stock of provisions. He hada

woman, he said, with him, who used to see us walking —
along the small adjoining river, but when he called her he —
received no answer, so that she had probably fled to join
her people. He informed me, also, that he expected a
considerable number of his tribe to come on the upper part
of the river to catch fish for their present support, and to
cure them for their winter store ; among whom he hada
son and two brothers. .
In consequence of these communications, I destnaith it,
altogether unnecessary to lose any more time at this place,
and I informed the old man that he must accompany me
for the purpose of introducing us to his friends and rela-
tions, and that if we met with his son or brothers, I depend-
ed upon him to persuade them, or some of their party, to
attend us as guides in our meditated expedition. He ex-
pressed his wishes to be excused from this service, and in
other circumstances we should not have insisted on it, a:
situated as we were, we could not yield to his request. _
At seven in the morning we left this place, ohichel
named Deserter’s River, or Creek. Our blind guide was, _
however, so averse to continuing with us, that | was under
the very disagreeable necessity of ordering the men to carry
him into the canoe; and this was the first act during my —
voyage, that had the semblance of violent dealing. He —
continued to speak ina very loud tone, while he remain- —
ed, according to his conjecture, near enough to the camp —
to be heard, but in a language that our interpreters did not —
understand, On asking him what he said, and why he
did not speak in a language known to us, he replied, that —
the woman understood him better in that which he spoke,
and he requested her, if she heard him, to come for him —
to the carrying- splnare mete he seas we should leave —
him. Sar
At length our canoe was become so lealies that it was,
absolutely unfit for service; and it was the unremitting —
employment of one person to keep her clear of water : we,
therefore, inquired of the old man where we could: con- )
veniently obtain the articles sapiabninbii' to build a ne wanes

B56 +,
Nestea wey

Si eee

North-West Continent of America. 197

~ and we understood from him, that,. at some distance up
_ the river, we should find plenty of bark: and cédar.

- At ten, being at the foot of a rapid, we saw a small
canoe coming down with two menin it. We thought it
would be impossible for them to escape, and therefore
struck off from the shore with a design to intercept them,

| directing the old man, at the same time, to address them ;

but they no sooner perceived us, than they steered into

_ the strength of the current, where I thought that they must

Inevitably perish; but their attention appeared, to be en-

grossed by the situation of their canoe, and they escaped
without making us the least reply.

About three in the afternoon we perceived a lodge at
the entrance of a considerable river on the right, as well

as the tracks of people in the mud at the mouth of a small

river onthe left. As they appeared to be fresh, we landed
and endeavoured to trace them, but mabe success.
We then crossed over to the lodge, which was deserted,
but all the usual furniture of such buildings remained un-
touched. |

Throughout the whole ofthis day the men had been in
astate of extreme ill-humour, and as they did not choose
openly to vent it upon me, they disputed and quarrelled
among themselves. About sun-set the canoe struck upon

_ the stump of a tree, which broke a large hole in her bot-

tom; a circumstance that gave them an opportunity to let
loose their discontents without reserve. I left them as
soon as we had landed, and ascended an elevated bank,
im a state of mind which I scarce wish to recollect, and
shall not attempt to describe. At this place there was a
‘subterraneous house, where I determined to pass the
night. The water had risen since we had passed down,
and it was with the utmost exertion that we came up se-
-veral points in the course of the day.

Thursday 27. We embarked at half past four, with
very favourable weather, and at eight we landed, where
‘there was an appearance of our being able to procure bark;

we, however, obtained but a small quantity. At twelve

- “we went on shore again, and collected as much as was ne-

_ cessary for our purpose. It now remained for us to fix

on a proper place for building another canoe, as it was

_ Impossible to proceed with our old one, which was be-

‘come an absolute wreck. At five in the afternoon we
came to a spot well adapted to the business in which we

..

i ernbasell with sands ae there»
spruce kind on the opposite land, which
from us by a small channel. We now |
the canoe was unloaded, and the tent f
thunder-storm came on, accompanied

did not subside till the night had closed.
of our men who had been in the woe
saw a deer, and one of them shot at it,
missed his aim. A net was Paiemtes-argnns
eddy at the end of the asain ania

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North-West Continent of America. T3

CHAPTER VII.

Make preparations to build acanoe. Engage in that im-

portant.work. It proceeds with great expedition. The

oe who had deserted arrives with another Indian. He

- eammunicates agreeable intelligence. They take an op-

mn nb portunity to quit the island. Complete the canoe, Leave
» theisland, which was now named the Canoe Island. Oblig-

ed to put the people on short allowance. Account of the
navigation. Difficult ascent of a rapid. Fresh per-

plesities. Continue our voyage up the river. Meet the

- guide and some of his friends. Conceal some pemmican
and other articles. Make preparations for proceeding
overland. Endeavour to secure the canoe till our return.
Proceed on our journey. Various circumstances of it. -

TFriday i t Ay a very early hour of the morning every
man was employed in making preparations for building
another canoe, and different parties went in search of wood,
_ watape, and gum. At two in the afternoon they all re-
turned successful, except the collectors of gum, and of that
article it was feared we should not obtain here a sufficient
supply for our immediate wants. After anecessary por-
tion of time allotted for refreshment, each began his re-
ppcciive work. I had an altitude at noon, which made us
In 53. 2. 32. North latitude.
en 29. ‘The weather continued to be fine. At
five we renewed our labour, and the canoe was got ina
_ state of considerable forwardness. ‘The conductor of the
vork, though a. good man, was remarkable for the tardi-
; hess of his operations, whatever they might be, and more
mu disposed to eat than to be active ; I, therefore, took this
opportunity of unfolding my sentiments to him, and there-
_ by discovering to all around me the real state of my mind,
and the resolutions I had formed for my future conduct.
After reproaching him for his general inactivity, but par-
ticularly on the present occasion, when our time was so
recious, I mentioned the apparent want of economy both
of himself and his companions, in the article of provisions.
[informed him that I was not altogether a stranger to
heir late conversations, from whence I drew the conclu-

200: Fournal of a Voyage through the

sion that they wished to put an end to the voyage. Lain
that were so, I expressed my wish that they would be ex-
plicit, and tell me at once of their determination to follow il i
me no longer. I concluded, however, by assuring him, ©
that whatever plan they had foedlectal to pursue, it was _
my fixed and unalterable determination to’ proceed, in
spite of every difficulty that might oppose, or danger —
that should threaten me. The man was very much: mor~—
tified at my addressing this remonstrance particularly to
him ; and replied, that he did not deserve my displeasure —
more than the rest of them. My object being answered,
the conversation dropped, and the work wenton. 5 —
About two in the afternoon one of the men perceived —
a canoe with two of the natives in it, coming along the
inside of the island, but the water being shallow, i it turned. |
back, and we imagined ‘that on perceiving us they had —
taken the alarm ; but we were agreeably surprised on see-
ing them come up on the outside of the island, when we ~
recognised our guide, and-one of the natives whom we
had already seen. The former begun immediately to
apologize for his conduct, and assured me that since
he had left me, his whe time had been employed in
searching after his faniily, who had been seized with the
general panic, that had been occasioned by the false re-
ports of the people who had first fled from us. He said
it was generally apprehended by the natives that we had
been unfriendly to their relations above, who were ex-
pected upon the river in great numbers at this time; and ©
that many of the Atnah or Chin nation, had come up the
river to where we had been, in the hope of seeing us, and
were very much displeased with him and his friends for
having neglected to give them an early notice of our ars
rival there. He added, that the two men whom a from,
seen yesterday or the day before, were just returned from
their rendezvous, with the natives of the sea-coast,
had brought a message from his brother-in-law, thathe
had a new axe for him, and not to forget to bringa inom ei
skin dressed in exchange, which he actually had in.
canoe. He expected to meet him, he said, at wee other
end of the carrying-place. 0
This was as pleasing intelligence as we had. reasc +
expect, and it 1s almost superfluous to observ
stood in great need of it. I had a meridian
which gave 53. 3. 7. North latitude. I also too

‘ North-West Continent of America: 201:

the fore and afternoon, that gave a mean of 1. 37. 42.
. Achrometer slow apparent time, which, with an observed.
immersion of Jupiter’s first satellite, made our longitude
(122. 48 West of Greenwich.

» The blind old man gave a verv favourable account o
us to his friends, and they all three were very merry to-
gether during the whole of the afternoon. That our
guide, however, might not escape from us during the

night, I determined to watch him.

- Sunday 30. Our strangers conducted themselves with
| great good-humour throughout the day. According to
their information we should find their friends above and.
below the carrying-place. ‘They mentioned, also, that
some of them were not of their tribe, but are Anca to the
people of the sea coast, who trade with the white men,
I had a meridian altitude, that gave 53. 3.17. North lati-
tude. 3
Fuly, Monday 1. Last night I had. the first watch;

bow one of my Indians piopbsed to sit up with me, as

he understood, from the old man’s conversation, that he-

intended, in the course of the night, to make his escape.
Accordingly at eleven I extinguished my light, and sat
quictly in my tent, from whence I could observe the mo-
tions of the natives. About twelve, though the night
was rather dark, I observed the old man creeping on his
_ hands and knees towards the water side. We accordingly
followed him very quietly tothe canoe, and he would have
gone away with it, if he had not been interrupted in his
design. On upbraiding him for his treacherous conduct,
when he had been treated with so much kindness by us, he
_ denied the intention of which we accused him, and declared
that his sole object was to assuage his thirst. At length,
however, he acknowledged the truth, and when we brought
him to the fire, his triends who now awoke, on being in-
formed of what had passed, reprobated his conduct, and
asked him how he could expect that the white people
would return to this country, if they experienced such un-
grateful treatment. The guide said, for his part, he was
mot a woman, and would never run away through fear.
_ But notwithstanding this courageous declaration, at one
_Tawakened Mr, Mackay, related to him what had passed,
and. requested him not to indulge himself in sleep till I
ould rise. It was seven before I awoke, and on quit-
ing my tent I was surprised at not seeing the guide and
ee 2B

202 Fournal of a Voyage through the

his companion, and my apprehensions were increas
when I observed that the canoe was removed from its lat
situation. ‘To my inquiries after them, some of the me
very composedly answered that they were gone up the
river, and had left the old man behind them. Mr. Ma
kay also ‘told me, that while he was busily employed on
the canoe, they had gottothe point before he had obser
their departure. ‘Lhe interpreter now informed me that
at the dawn of day ihe guide had expressed his” desi 8 Nn,
as soon as the sun was up, to go and wait for us, where
he might find his friends. I hoped this might be pote
but that my people should ouffer! them to depart without —
giving me notice, was a circumstance that awakened very —
paintul reflections in my breast. The weather was clear’
in the forenoon. My observation this day gave 53. 3. 835 y
Worth latitude... hat a ‘iy
At five in the afternoon our vessel was completed, oad
ready for service. She proved a stronger and better boat —
than the old one, though had it not been for thes gum obs ie
tained from the latter, it would have been a matter of ees |
difficulty to have procured a sufficiency of that article t
have prevented her from leakin 1g The remainder of. the
day was employed by the people in cleaning and refreshin 4
themselves, as they had enjoyed no-relaxation from their
labour since we landed on this spot. | nd
The old man having manifested for various, ‘anid ya pr
bably, very fallacious reasons, a very great aversion to ac-
company us any further, it did not appear that there was —
any 2 en to force his inclination. iF now —

at all times a perc object of attention. |
Tuesday 2. Itrained throughout the night, wie at ha
past three we were ready to embark, when I offered 1
conduct the old man where he had supposed we shot
meet his friends, but he declined the proposition. I thei
fore directed a few pounds of pemmican to be left with
him, for his immediate support, and took leave of him and
the place, which I named Canoe Island. During ou
there we had been most cruelly tormented by flies, |
cularly the sand-fly, which I am disposed to cons
the most tormenting insect of its size in nature.
also compelled to put the people upon short allowa
confine them to two meals a-day, a regulation p:
offensive to a Canadian voyager. One of these

q : North-West Continent of America. 203.

i. of the dried rows of ve pounded, and boiled
> water, thickened with a small quantity of flour, and
fattened with a bit of grian. These articles, being brought
to the consistency of an hasty-pudding, produced a sub-
stantial and not unpleasant dish. ‘The natives are ver
eareful of the rows of fish, which they dry, and preserve
an baskets made of bark. ‘Those we used were found in
‘the huts of the first people who fled from us. During our
abode in Canoe Island, the water sunk three perpendicular
feet. Inow gave the men a dram each, which could not
but be considered, at this time, as.a very eopabaiealale treat:
They were, indeed, in high spirits; when they perceived
the superior excellence of the new vessel, and reflected
that it was the work of their own hands. |
4 At eleven we arrived at the rapids, and the foreman,
who had not forgotten the fright he suffered on coming
down it, proposed that the canoe and lading should be
carried over the mountain. I threatened him with taking
the office of foreman on myself, and suggested the evident
“change there was in the appearance of the water since we
passed it, which, upon examination, had sunk four icet
cand an half. As the water did not seem so strong on the
“West side, I determined to cross over, having first put
Mr. Mackay, and our two hunters, on shore, to try the
woods for game. We accordingly traversed, and got up
- «lose along the rocks, to aconsiderable distance, with the
paddles, when we could proceed no further without as-
“sistance from the line ; and to draw it across a perpendicu-
lar rock, for the distance of fifty fathoms, appeared to be
van imsurmountable obstacle. The general opinion was, to
_ return, and carry on the other side; I desired, however,
two of the men totake the line, which was seventy fathoms
- in length, with a smail roll of bars ‘and endeavour to climb
up the rocks, from whence they. were to descend on the
other side of that which opposed our progress; they were
“then to fasten the end of the line to the roll of bark, which
‘the current would bring to us; this being effected, they
_ would be able to draw us up. ‘This was an enterprize of
_ difficulty and danger, but it was crowned with success ;
though to get to the. water’s edge above, the men were
obliged to let themselves down wid the line, run round a
tree, from the summit of the rock. By a repetition of the
me operation, we at length cleared the rapid, with the
Iditional trouble of carrying the canoe, and unloading at

Sag

al he ER ee
, _ * ; HAN a
pet ay 5.

204 Journal of a Voyage through the

two cascades. We were not more than two hours ; getting
up this difficult part of the river, including the time em-
ployed im repairing an hole which had been broken in the
canoe, by the negligence of the steersman. |

Here we expected to meet with the natives, but oon |
was not the least appearance of them, except that the guide, -
his companion, and two others, had apparently passed the
carrying-place. We saw several fish leap out of the water,
which appeared to be of the salmon kind. The cldman, —
indeed, had informed us that this was the season when the es
large fish begin to come up the river. Our hunters ree
turned, but had not seen the track of any animal. We
now continued our journey; the current was not strong, —
but we met with frequent impediments from the fallen trees,
which lay along the banks. We landed at eight in the
evening; and suffered indescribable 1 inconveniences fogaa |
the flies.

Wednesday 3. It had rained hard in the sesh and shee
was some small rainin the morning. At four we entered
our canoe, and at ten we came to a small river, which
answered to the description of that whose course the na-
tives said, they follow in their journies towards the sea-
coast; we therefore put into it, and endeavored to dis-
cover if our guide had landed ‘here ; but there were no ~
traces of him or of any others. My former perplexities
were now renewed. if I passed this river, it was proba» —
ble that I might miss the natives; and I had reason to sus=
pect that my men would not consent to return thither. As
for attempting the woods, without a guide, to introduce
us to the first inhabitants, such a determination would be
little short of absolute madness. At length, after much
painful reflection, I resolved to come at once to a full ex+
planation with my people, and I experienced a considera-
ble relief from this resolution. Accordingly, after res
peating the promise they had sv lately made me, on our
putting back up the river, I represented to them that this,
appeared to me to be the spot from which the natives took —
their departure for the sea coast, and added, withal, that 1
was determined to try it; for though our guide had left Us,
it was possible that, while we were making the necessary
preparations, he or some others might appear, to relieve ~
us from our present difficulties. I now found, to my great
satisfaction, that they had not come to any fixed. det it:
nation among themselves, as some of them immediately —

S
~

5 Se e!
Me ees:

=i

BB ge agra ny Ss eet a
Sara cy or “

Fa

North-West Continent of America. 205

‘assented to undertake the woods with me. Others, how-
ever; suygested that it might be better to proceed a few

_deagues further up the river, in expectation of finding our

guide, or procuring another, and that after all we might

return hither. This plan I very readily agreed to adopt,
but before I left this place, to which I gave the name of
_ the West-Road River, I sent some of the men into the

woods, 1 in different directions, and went some distance up

the river itself, which I found to be navigable only for
P dmallcances. Twoof the men found a good beaten path,

leading up an hill just behind us, which I imagined to be
mie great road.

At four in the afternoon we left this place, proceeding
up the river ; and had not been upon the water more than
three quarters of an hour, when we saw two canoes com-
ing with the stream. No sooner did the people in them
perceive us than they landed, and we went on shore at the |

same place with them.. ‘hey proved to beour guide, and

81x of his relations. He was covered with a painted beaver
robe, so that we scarcely knew him in his fine habiliment.
He instantly desired us to acknowledge that he had not
disappointed us, and declared, at the same time, that it
was his constant intention to keep his word. I accordingly
gave him a jacket, a pair of trowsers, and an handkerchief,

as a reward for his honorable conduct. The strangers
examined us with the most minute attention, and two of
them, as I was now informed, belonged to the people

- whom we first saw, and who fled with so much alarm from

us. They told me, also, that they were so terrified on that
occasion, as not to approach their huts for two days; and
that when they ventured thither, they found the greater
part of their property destroyed, by the fire running in the
ground. According to their account, they were of a dif-
ferent tribe, though I found no difference in their lan-
guage from that of the Nagailas or Carriers. ‘They are
called Nascud Denee. ‘Their lodges were at some dis«
tance, on a small lake, where they take fish, and if our
guide had not gone for them there, we should not have
seen an human being on the river. They informed me
that the road by their habitation is the shortest, and they

_ proposed that we should take it..
te Lhursday 4. At an early hour this morning, and at the
| Suggestion of our guide, we proceeded to the landing-

that leads to the strangers lodges. Our great dif_-

206 Fournal of a Voyage through the

culty here was to procure a temporary separation from
company, in order to hide somearticles we could not carry
with us, and which it would have been imprudent to leay
in the power of the natives. Accordingly Mr.
and one of our Indians embarked with them, and soc
out of oursight. At our first hiding-place we left a bag
pemmican, weighing ninety pounds, two bags of wild ri
and a gallon keg of gunpowder. Previous to our putti
these articles in the ground, we rolled them up in oil clo
and dressed leather. In the second hiding-place, and
guarded with the same rollers, we hid two bags of Indian —
corn, or maize, and a bale of different articles of merchan- |
dize. When we had completed this important object, we _
proceeded tiil half past eight, when we landed at the ‘en-
trance of a small rivulet, where our friends were einen:
for us. > a a
Here it was necessarv that we should lentes our canoe,
and whatever we could not carry onour backs. In the
first place, therefore, we prepared a stage, on which the —
canoe was placed bottom upwards, and shaded by a cover- —
ing of small trees and branches, to keep her from the sun. |
We then built an oblong hollow square, ten feet by five, of —
green logs, wherein we placed every article it was neces-
sary for us to leave here, and covered the whole with largty
pieces of timber. 1s Sibi
While we were eagerly employed in iis necessary busi- |
ness, our guide and his companions were so impatient to —
be gone, that we could not persuade the former to wait till —
we were prepared for our departure, and we had some
difficulty in persuading another of the natives to remain, —
who had undertook to conduct us where the guide had pro=
mised to wait our arrival. ae
At noon we were in a state of preparation to- enter the
jet an undertaking of which I shall not here give any _
preliminary opinion, but leave those who read it to judge |
for themselves. ay
We carried on our backs four bags and an half ol pem=
mican, weighing from eighty-five to ninety pounds each
a case with my instruments, a parcel of goods for presents, —
weighing ninety pounds, and a parcel containing ammuni= —
tion of the same weight.. Each of the Canadians hada
burden of about ninety pounds, with a gun, and some am-
munition. ,The Indians had about forty-five pounds weight —
of pemmican to carry, besides their gun, &c. with which

North-West Continent of America. 207

re very much dissatisfied, and if they had dared,
ve instantly left us. “They had hitherto been very
idulged, but the moment was now arrived when
rence was no longer practicable. My own load, and
f Mr. Mackay, consisted of twenty-two pounds of
ican, some rice, a little sugar, &c. amounting in the
to about seventy pounds each, besides our arms and
unition. I had also the tube of my telescope swung
- across my shoulder, which was a troublesome addition to
ay burthen. It was determined that we should content
ourselves with two meals a-day, which were regulated

without difficulty, as our provisions did not require the

ceremony of cooking.

- In this state of equipment we began our journey, as I
have already mentioned, about twelve at noon, the com-
mencement of which was a steep ascent of about a mile ;
‘jt lay along a well-beaten path, but the country through
which it led was rugged and ridgy, and full of wood.

- When we were ina state of extreme heat, from the toil of

_ our journey, the rain came on, and continued till the even-

q ing, and even when it ceased, the underwood continued
its drippings upon us.

- About half past six we arrived at an Indian camp of

4 Once fires, where we found our guide, and on his recom-

_ mendation we determined to remain there for the night.

_ The computed distance of this day’s journey was about

twelve geographical miles; the course about West.

~ At sun-set an elderly man and three other natives joined
us from the Westward. The former bore a lance that
very much resembled a serjeant’s halberd. He had lately

_ received it, by way of barter, from the natives of the Sea-
_ Coast, who procured it from the white men. We should
_ meet, he said, with many of his countrymen, who had just
_ returned from thence. According to his report, it did
not require more than six days journey, for people who
are not heavily laden, to reach the country of those with
whom they bartered their skins for iron, &c. and from
thence it is not quite two day’s march to the sea. They
_ proposed to send two young men on before us, to notity
_ to the different tribes that we were approaching, that they
¥ ‘might not be surprised at our appearance, and be disposed
_ to offer us a friendly reception. This was a measure
_ which I could not but approve, and endeavoured by some
ll presents to prepossess our couriers in our fayour.

208 Fournal ofa Voyage through the.

These people live but poorly at this season, and I cou
procure no provision from them, but a few small, drie
fish, as I think, of the carp kind. They had several Eu~
ropean articles ; and one of them hada strip of fur, which
appeared to me to be of the sea otter. He obtained it
from the natives of the coast, and. dnbeing 2 it with me
for some beads and a brass cross, 1 dis geseay
We retired to rest inas much security as if we had been
long habituated to a confidence in our present.associates ;
indeed we had no alternative; for so great were the fa- —
tigues of the day in our mode of travelling, that we wien .
in great need of rest at night. | i
Friday 3. We had no sooner laid cipualili dnaalen to
rest last night, than the natives began to sing, in a manner
very different from what I had been accustomed to hear
among savages. It was not accompanied either with
dancing, drum, or rattle ; but consisted of soft, plaintive
tones, and a modulation that was.rether! agreeable ; ; it had
somewhat the air of church music. As the natives had
requested me not to quit them at a very early hour in the
morning, it was five before I desired that the young meny
who were to proceed with us, should depart, when they
prepared to set off: but, on calling to our guide to conduct
us, he said, that he did not intend ta accompany us any
further, as the young men would answer our purpose as
well as himself. I knew it would be in vain to remon*
strate with him, and therefore submitted to his caprice
without a reply. However, I thought proper to inform
him, that one of my people had lost his dag, or poignards °
and requested his assistance in the recovery of it. He
asked me what I would give him to conjure it back agains —
and a knife was agreed to be the price of his necromanti¢ —
exertions. Accordingly, all the dags and knives in the -
place were gathered together, and the natives formed a
circle round them; the conjurer also remaining in the
middle. When this part of the ceremony was arranged,
he began to sing, the rest joining in the chorus ; and after —
some time he produced the poignard which was stuck in -
the ground, and returned it to me. 28 GE
At seven we were ready to depart: oii Iwas sure
prised to hear our late guide propose, without any solicis
tation on our part, to resume his office ; and he > actually
conducted us as far as a small lake, whene ik found an en+
campment of three families. The young men who had

North-West Continent of America. 209

idertaken to condiict us were not well understood by my

nt erpreters, who continued to be so displeased with their
journey, that they performed this part of their duty with
eat reluctance. I endeavoured to persuade an elderly
aan of this encampment to accompany us to the next tribe,

_ but no inducement of mine could prevail on him to com-

ply with my wishes. I was, therefore, obliged to content

| myself with the guides I had already engaged, for whom

we were obliged to wait some time, till they, had provided

‘shoes for their journey. I exchanged two halfpence here,

one of his present Majesty, and the other of the State of
Massachusett’s Bay, coined in 1787. ‘They hung as orna-
ments in children’s ears.

‘My situation here was rendered rather unpleasant by
a treatment which my hunters received from these peo-
ple. The former, it appeared, were considered as belong-
bag to a tribe who inhabit the mountains, and are the na-
tural enemies of the latter. We hadalso been told by one
of the natives, of a very stern aspect, that he had been stab-
bed by a relation of theirs, and pointed to a scar as a proof
of it. I was, therefore, very glad to proceed on my
prey

Our guides conducted us along the lake through thick

_ woods, and without any path, for about a mile and an half,

when we lost sight of it. This piece of water is about
three miles long and one broad. We then crossed a creek
and entered upon a beaten track, through an open country,
sprinkled with cypress trees. At twelve the sky became
black, and an heavy gust with rain shortly followed, which
gontinued for upwards of an hour. When we perceived
the approaching storm, we fixed our thin, light oil-cloth to
Screen us from it. On renewing our march, as the bushes
Were very wet, I desired our guides, they having no bur«

dens, to walk in front, and beat them as they went: this

task they chose to Gecline, and accordingly i undertook it.
Our road now lay along a lake, and across a creek that ran.
into it. The guides infor med me, that this part of the
country abounds in’ beaver: many traps were seen along
the road which had been set for lynxés and martens. About
a quarter of a mile from the place where we had been stop-
ped by the rain, the ground was covered with hail, and as

re advanced, the hailstones increased in size, some of

tem being as big as. musket-balls. In this manner was

the ground whitened for upwards of two miles. At five

26

210 Fournal af, a Voyage through the

in the afternoon we arr ived on the banks of another lake,
when it again threatened rain and we had already been
sufficiently wetted in the course of the day, to look with
complacency towards a repetition of it: we accordingly
fixed our shed, the rain continuing with great violence
through the remainder of the day: “it was, therefore, de-
termined, that we should stop here forthe night,

In the course of the day we passed three winter huts; -
they consisted of low walls, with a ridge-pole, covered
with the branches of the Canadian balsam-tree. One of
my men had a violent pain in his knee, and I asked the
guides to take a share of his burden, as they had nothing
to carry but their beaver robes, and bows and arrows, but
they could not be made to understand a word of my re-
guest.

Saturday 6. At four this morning I arose from my
bed, such as it was. As we must have been in a most
unfortunate predicament, if our guides should have de-
serted us in the night, by way of security, I proposed to,
the youngest of them to sleep with me, and he readily
consented. These people have no cov ering but their bea-_
ver garments, and that of my companions was a nest of
vermin,..,..1,; however, spread it under us, and “having
faid down upon it, we covered ourselves with my cam-
blet cloak. My companion’s hair being greased with fish-
oil, and his body smeared with red earth, my sense of
smelling, as well as that of feeling, threatened to inter-

rupt my rest; but these inconveniences yielded to my
fatigue, and 1 passed a night of sound repose.
_ I took the lead in our march, as I had done yesterday,
in order to clear the branches of the wet which continued
to hang upon them. We proceeded with all possible ex-
pedition through a level country with but little rahe
the larger trees were of the fir kind. At half past eigh
we fell upon the road, which we first intended to ve

taken from the Great (ise and must be shorter than
that which we had travelled. The West-road river was
also in sight, winding through a valley. We had not met
with any water since our encampment | of last night, and,
though we were afflicted with violent thirst, the river was.
at such a distance from us, and the descent to it so loi
and steep, that we were compelled to be satisfied wi
casting our longing looks towards it. There appeared to
be more water in the river here, than at its discharges

North-West Continent of Americtt 211

The Indian account, ‘that it is navigable for their canoes,

‘Gel pier now Pela us, dit as the road was very good
“as well traced, they would proceed to inform the next
tribe that we were coming. This information was of a
very unpleasant nature; as it would have been easy for

_ them to turn off the road at an hundred yards from us,

and when we had: passed them, to return home. [I pro-
posed | that one of them should remain with us, while two
of my people should leave their loads behind and accom-
pany the other to the lodges. But they would not stay to
hear our persuasions, and were soon out of sight.

~ I now desired the Cancre to leave his burden, take a
small quantity of provision, with his arms and blanket,

and follow me. I also told my men to come on as fast as
they could, and that I would wait for them as soon as I
oom forined an acquaintance with the natives of the coun-
try before us. We accordingly followed our guides
ah all the expedition in our power, but did not over-
take them till we came to a family of natives, consisting
of one man, two women, and a children, with whom
we foundthem. These people betrayed no signs of fear
‘at our appearance, and the man willingly conversed with
my interpreter, to whom he made himself more intelligi-
ble, than our guides had been able to do. They, how-
ever, had informed him of the object of our journey.

He pointed out to us one of his wives, who was a native
of the sea coast, which was not a very great distance
from us. This woman was more inclined to corpulency
than any we had yet seen, was of low stature, with an
oblong face, grey eyes, and a flattish nose. She was de-
corated with ornaments of various kinds, such as large
blue beads, either pendant from her ears, encircling her
neck, or braided in her hair: she also wore bracelets of
brass, copper and horn. Her garments consisted of a
kind of tunic, which was covered with a robe of matted:
bark, fringed round the bottom with skin of the sea otter.

Wine: of the women whom I had seen since we crossed

the mountain wore this kind of tunic; their blankets being
merely girt round the waist. She had learned the lan-
guage of her husband’s tribe, and.confrmed this account,
that we were at no great distance from the sea. They
were on their way, she said, to the great river to fish.
Age seemed to be an shi of great veneration among

4

212 Journal of a Voyage through the

these people, for they carried an old woman by turns on
their backs, whe was quite blind and infirm, from the very |
advanced period of her life. :

Our people having joined us and rested thewiikues, I
requested our guides to proceed, when the elder of them
told me that he should not go any further, but that. these.
people would send a boy to accompany his brother, and I
began to think myself rather fortunate, that we. were not
deserted by themall. ile

About noon we parted, and in two hours. we came up
with two men and their families: when we first saw them
they were sitting down, as if to rest themselves; but no
~ sooner did they perceive us than they rose up and seized
their arms. ‘The boys who were behind us. immediately
ran forwards and spoke to them, when they laid by their
arms, and received us as friends. “They had been eating
green berries and dried fish. We had, indeed, scarcely:
jeined them, when a woman andaboy came. from the
river with water, which they very hospitably gave us. to
drink. The people of this party had a very sickly appears
ance, which might have been the consequence of disease,
or that indolence which is so natural to them, or of both,.
One of the women had a tattooed line along the phane of |
the same length as her mouth. |. fs
The lads now informed me that they Ae hi zo no Sisal
ther, but that these men would take their places ; and they *
parted from their families with as little apparent concern, |
as if they were entire strangers to each other. One of —

- them was very well understood by my interpreter, and had
resided among the natives of the sea coast, whom he had
left but a short time. According to his information, we
were approaching ariver, which was neither large nor,
long, but whose banks are inhabited ; and that in the bay
which the sea forms at the mouth of it, a great wooden |
canoe, with white people, arrives about the time when the’ |
leaves begin to grow: I presume inthe early part of May.

After we parted with the last people, we came to an
uneven, hilly, and swampy country, through which our
Way was impeded by a considerable number of fallen trees.:
At fivein the afternoon we were overtaken by a heavy
shower of rain and hail, and being at the same time verges
much fatigued, we encamped for the night near a si
creek.. Our course, till we came to the river, was about.
South-West ten miles, and then West twelve or fou

rteca |

Norilt-West Continent of America. O13

miles.” I thought itprudent, by way of security, to sub-
mit to the same inconveniences I have already described,
and shared the beaver robe of one of my guides during the

“night.

. Sunday 7. 7. was so busily employed in collecting intel-
digence from our conductors, that I last night forgot to
wind up my time-piece, and it was the only instance of

_ such an act of negligence since I left Fort Chepewyan, on
‘the 11th of last October. At five we quitted our station,

and proceeded across two mountains, covered with spruce,
poplar, white birch, and other trees. We then descended
¥nto a level country, where we found a gcod road, through
woods of cypress.. We then came to two small lakes, at
the distance of about fourteen miles. Course about West.

Through them the river passes, and our road kept in a pa-
» Yallei line with it on a range of elevated ground. On ob-

serving s@ne people before us, our guides hastened to

meet them, and, on their approach, one of them stepped

forward with an axein his hand. ‘This party consisted
only of a man, two women, and the same number of chil-
git The eldest of the women, who probably was the
man’s mother, was engaged, when we joined them, in
clearing a circular spot, of about five feet in diameter, of
the weeds that infested it; nor did our arrival interrupt
her employment, which was sacred to the memory of the
dead. ‘The spot to which her pious care was devoted,
contained the grave of an husband, anda son, and when-
ever she passed this way, she. alway stopped to pay this

_ tribute of affection.

_As soon as we had taken our morning allowance, we set
forwards, and about three we perceived more people before
us. . After some alarm we came up withthem. They con-
sisted of seven men, as many women, and several chil-
dren. Here I was. under the necessity of procuring an- ~
other guide, and we continued our raute on the same side
of the river, till sixin the evening, when we crossed it.
It was knee deep, and about an hundred yards over. I
wished now to stop for the night, as we were all of us very

- much fatigued, but our guide recommended us to proceed

onwards toa family of his friends, at a small distance from
thence, where we arrived at half past seven. He had gone
forward, and procured us a welcome and quiet reception.
There being a net hanging to dry, I requested the man to
prepare and set it in the water, which he did with great

214 %ournal of a Voyage through the

expedition, and then presented me with afew small, dried. .

fish. Our course was South-West about twelve miles,
part of which was an extensive swamp, that was seldom

less than knee deep. .In the course of the afternoon we —

had several showers of rain. I had attempted to take an

altitude, but it was past meridian. ‘The water of the river

before the lodge was quite still, and expanded itself into —
lic form of a small lakes’ In: many other places, indeed, oe

it had assumed the same form.
Monday 8. It rained throughout ‘the night, and it ie

seven in the morning before the weather would allow us to -
proceed. The guide brought me five small, boiled fish, e

im a platter made_of bark ; ; some of them were of the cart
kind, and the rest-of'a species for which I am not quali-

fied to furnish aname. Having dried our clothes, we set —

off on our march about eight, and our guide very cheer=
fully continued to accompany us; but he was nct altogether

so intelligible as his predecessors in our service. We

learned from him, however, that this lake, through which.

the river passes, extends to the foot of the mountain, and

that he expected to meet nine men, ofa tribe which inha-
bits the North side of the river. 1

In this part of our journey, we were surpr sted with the
appearance of several regular basons, some of them fur-

nished with water, and the others erapty ; their slope from

the edge to the bottom formed an angle of about forty-five
degrees; and their perpendicular depth was about twelve

feet.. Those that contained water, discovered gravel near

their edges, while the empty ones were covered with grass

and Herbs; among which we discovered mustard and mint.

There were also several places from whence the water ap

pears to have retired, which are Spee with the same

7

soil and herbage. Baker.

We now proceeded along a very uneven country, the
upper parts of which were covered with poplars, a little

under-wood, and plenty of grass: the intervening vallies 4

were Rea with rivulets. From these circumstance

and the general appearance of vegetation, I could not. ace

count for the apparent absence of animals of every kind.

Attwo in the afternoon we arrived at the largest’ river

that we had seen, since we left our canoe, and which forc :
its way between ‘and over the huge stones that opposed i its

current. Our course was about South-South-West six-—

teen miles along the river, which might here justify” tie

North-West Continent of America. 215.

title of alake. . The road was good, and our next course,
which was West by South, brought us onward ten miles,,
where. we encamped, fatigued and wet, it having rained
three parts of the day. ‘This river abounds with fish, and
must fall into the greater river, further down than we had
extended our voyage.
Tuesday 9, A heavy and continued rain . fell through
sreat part of the night, and as we were in some measure
exposed to it, time was required to dry our clothes; so
that it was half past seven in the morning before we were
ready to setout. As we found the couniry so destitute of
game, and foreseeing the difficulty of procuring provisicns
for our return, I thought it prudent to conceal half a bag
of pemmican: having sent off the Indians, and all my peo-
ple except two, we buried it under the fire place, as we
had done on a former occasion, We soon overtook our
party, and continued our route along the river or lake.
_ Aboat twelve I had an altitude, but owas macninacc fram
2 - the cloudiness of the weather. We continued our pro-
| «gress. till five in the afternoon, when the water began to
narrow, and in about half an hace we came to a “ferry,
- where we found a small raft. At this time it began to
thunder, and torrents of rain soon followed, which termi-
nated our journey for the day. Our course was about
South, twenty-one miles from the lake already mentioned.
e now discovered tops of the mountains, covered with
snow, over very high intermediate land. We killed a
whitehead and a grey eagle, and three grey partridg:s ;
we saw also two otters in the river, and several beaver
‘ lodges along it. When the rain ceased, we caught a few
small fish, and repaired the raft for the service of the en-
“suing day..
Wednesday 10. ' At an early hour of this morning we
prepared to cross the water. The traverse is about thirty
_ yards, and it required five trips to get us allover. Ata
| short distance below, asmall river fails in, that comes from
the direction i in which we were proceeding. It is a rapid
for about three hundred yards, when it expands into a
dake, along which our road conducted us, and beneath a
_ Yange of beautiful hills, covered with verdure. At halt
past eight we came to the termination of the lake, where
there were two houses that occupied a most delighiful
situation, and as they contained their necessary furniture,
_ it seemed probable that their owners intended shor tly to

a6 ‘¥gurnulofia a Voyage throug gh the

yeturn. Near them weré several graves or tombs, te
which the natives are particularly attentive, and never
suffer any herbage to grow upon them. In about half an’
hour we reached a place where there were two temporary:
huts, that contained thirteen men, with whom we found
our guide who had preceded us, in order to secure agood’
reception. The buildings were detached from each other,
and conveniently placed br fishing in the lake. Their in-!
habitants called themselves Sloua-cuss-Dinais, which de-
nomination, as far as my interpreter could explain it to
me, I undetstood to mean HRed-fish Men. They were
much more cleanly, healthy, and agreeable in their a
pearance, than any of the natives whom we had passed 5
nevertheless, I have no doubt that they are the same peo-'
sle, from their name alone, which is of the Chepewyan
dis crsia My interpreters, however, understood very
little of what they said, so that I did not expect much in.
formation from them. Some of them said it was a jour-
ney of four days to the sea, and others were of opinion that
it was six; and there were among them that extended it
to eight ; but they all uniformly declared that they had’
been to the coast. They did not entertain the smallest
apprehension of danger from us, and, when we discharged.
our pieces, expressed no. sensation but that of astonish«
ment, which, as may be supposed, was proportionably in=,
éredsead when one of the hunters shot an eagle, at a consi- ©
_derable distance. Attwelve I obtained analtitude, which
made our latitude 53. 4. 32. North » being not so far South
as I expected. | j |

I now went, accompanied by one of my men, an inter-
preter, and the guide, to visit some huts at the distance of
amile. On our arrival the inhabitants presented us with
a dish of boiled trout, of a small’kind. ©The fish would
have been excellent if it had not tasted of the kettle, which!
was made of the bark of the white ‘spruce, and of the.
dried grass with which it was boiled. Besides this kind
of trout, red and white carp and jub, are the only ‘fish E
saw as the produce of these waters.

These people appeared to live in a state of comparative
comfort: they take a greater share in the labour of th
jwomen, than is common among the savage tribes, and are,
as I was informed, content with one wife. ‘Though this
circumstance may ‘proceed rather from the cite of

North-West Continent of America. 217

_ procuring subsistence, than any habitual aversion to poly-

2 a
_My present guide now informed me, that he could not
proceed any further, and I accordingly engaged two of

these people to succeed him in that office ; but when they

desired us to proceed on the beaten path without them, as
they could not set off till the following day, I determined

to stay that night, in order to accommodate myself to their

convenience. I distributed some trifles among the wives
and children of the men who were to be our future guides,
and returned to my people. We came back by a differene
way, and passed by two buildings, erected between four

trees, and about fifteen feet from the ground, which ap-
peared to me to be intended as magazines for winter pro-
visions. At four in the afternoon, we proceeded with

considerable expedition, by the side of the lake, till six,

when we came to the endof it: we then struck off through

a much less beaten track, and at half past seven stopped
for the night. Ourcourse was about West-South-West
thirteen miles, and West six miles.

Thursday 11. I passed a most uncomfortable night:
the first part of it I was tormented with flies, and in the

_ latter deluged with rain. In the morning the weather

cleared, and as soon as our clothes were dried, we pro-

ceeded through a morass. This part of the country had.

been laid waste by fire, and the fallen trees added to the
pain and perplexity of our way. An high, rocky ridge
stretched along our left. Though the rain returned, we

é

continued our progress till noon, when our guides took to
some trees forshelter. We then spread our oil-cloth, and,
-with some difficulty, made a fire, About two the rain

“ceased, when we continued our journey through the same
kind of country which we had hitherto passed. At half
past three we came in sightof alake; the land at the same
time gradually rising to a range of mountains whose tops
were covered with snow. We soon after observed two
fresh tracks, which seemed to surprise our guides, but

they supposed them to have been made by the inhabitants

of the country, who were come into this part of it to fish.

-.

\

_ At five in the afternoon we were so wet and cold (for it had

at intervals continued to rain) that we were compelled to

5 OP for the night. We passed seven rivulets and a creek

inthis day’s journey. AsI had hitherto regulated our

course by the sun, I could not form an accurate judgment
2D

%, -
ts

218 Fournal of a Voyage throuch the

of this route, as we had not been favoured with a sight of
it during the day ; but I imagine it to have been nearly 1 in
the same direction as that of yesterday. Our eaten coulc
not have been less than fifteen miles.

Qur conducters now began to complain of our mode of
travelling, and mentioned their mtention of leaving us ;
and my in terpreters, who were equally dissatisfied, added
to our perplexity by their conduct. Besides, these cir-
cumstances, andthe apprehension that the distance from
the sea might be greater than I had imagined, it became a
matter of real necessity that we should begin to diminish —
the consumption of our provisions, and to subsist upon
two-thirds of our allowance; a proposition which was as _
unwelcome to my people, as it was necessary to be put into
immediate practice.

Friday 12. At half past five this morning we moran
on our journey, with cloudy weather, and when we came
to the end of the lake, several tracks were visible that led
to the side of the water; from which circumstance I con-
cluded, that some of the natives were fishing along the —
banks of it. This lake is not more than three mileg long,
and about one broad. We then passed four smailcr lakes,
the two first being on our right, and those which preceded
.on our left. A smallriver also flowed across our way
from the right, and we passed it over a beaver-dam. A
larger lake now appeared on our right, and the mountains
on each side of us were covered with snow. We after-
wards came to another lake on our right, and soon reached
ariver, which our guides infor nied us was the same that
we had passed onaraft. They said it was navigable for
canoes from the great river, except two rapids, one of
which we had seen. At this place itis upwards of tw enty )
yards across, and deep water. One of the guides swam
over to fetch a raft which was on the opposite side; and
having increased its. dimensions, we crossed: at two trips,
except four of the men, whe preferred swimming.

Here our conductors renewed their menace of leaving
us, and I was obliged to give them several articles, and
promise more, inorder to induce them to continue till we
could procure other natives to succeed them. At four in
the afternoon we forded the same river, and being with
the guides at some distance before the rest of the people, I
sat down to wait for them, and no sooner did they arrive,
than the former set off with so much speed, that it

s

Narth-West Continent of America. 219

tempt to follow them proved unsuccessful. One of my
Indians, however, who had no load, overtook them, when
they excused themselves to him by declaring, that their
sole motive for leaving us was, to prevent the people, whom
they expected to find, from shooting their arrows at us.
At seven o’clock, however, we were so fatigued, that we
encamped without them: the mountains covered with snow
now appeared to be directly before us. As we were col-
lecting wood for our fire, we discovered a cross road,
where it appeared that people had passed within seven or
eight days. In short, our situation was such as to aforda
just cause of alarm, and that of the people with me was of
a nature to defy immediate alleviation. It was neces-
sary, however, for me to attempt it; and I rested my
principles of encouragement on a representation of our
past perplexities and unexpected relief, and endeavoured
to excite in them the hope of similar good fortune. [.
stated to them, that we could not be ata great distance
from the sea, and that there were but few natives to pass,
till we should arrive among those, who, being accustomed
to visit the sea coast, and, having seen white people, would
be disposed to treat us with kindness. Such was the gene-
ral tenor of the reasoning I employed on the occasion, and
I was happy to find that it was not offered in vain.
_. The weather had been cloudy till three in the afternoon,
when the sui appeared; but surrounded, as we were,
with snow-clad mountains, the air became so cold, that
the violence of our exercise was not sufficient to produce
a comfortable degree of warmth. Our course to-day was
from West to South, and at least thirty-six miles. The
land in general, was very barren and stony, and lay in
ridges, with cypress trees scattered overthem. We pared
several swamps, where we saw nothing to console us but
a few tracks of deer.

Saturday 13. The weather this morning was clear but
cold, and our scanty covering was not sufficient to pro-
tect us from the severity of the night. About five, after
we had warmed ourselves at a large fire, we proceeded on
our dubious journey. In about an hour we came to the
edge of a wood, when we perceived an house, situated.
on a green spot, and by the side of a small river. he
smoke that issued from it informed us that it was in-
habited. Iimmediately pushed forward toward this man-
sion, while my people were in such a state of alarm, that

pa

220 Sournal of a Voyage through the

they followed me with the utmost reluctance. On look~
ing back I perceived that we were in an Indian defile, of
fifty yards in length. I, however, was close upon the
house before the inhabitants perceived us, when the wo-
men and children uttered the most horrid shrieks, and
the only man who:appeared to be with them, escaped out
of a back door, which I reached in time to prevent the
women and children from followmg him. ‘The man fled
with all his speed into the wood, and 1 called in vain on
my interpreters to speak to him, but they were so agitat-
ed with fear as to have lost the power of utterance. Itis
impossible to describe the distress and alarm of these poor
people, who believing thatthey were attacked by enemies,
expected, an immediate massacre, which, among them-
selves, never fails to follow such an event.

Our prisoners consisted of three women, and seven
children, which apparently composed three families. At
length, however, by our demeanor, and our presents, we
contrived to dissipate their apprehensions. One of the
women then informed us, that their people, with seve-
ral others, had left that place three nights before, on ‘a
trading journey toa tribe whom she calied Annah, which
is the name the Chepewyans give to the Knisteneaux, at
the distance of three days. She added also, that from.
the mountains before us, which were covered with snow,
the sea was visible; and accompanied her information
with a present of a couple of dried fish. We now ex-
pressed our desire that the man might be induced to re-
turn, and conduct us in the road to the sea. Indeed, it
was not long before he discovered himself in the wood,
when he was assured, both by the women and our inter-
preters, that we had no hostile design against him; but
these assurances had no effect in quieting his apprehen-
sions. I then attempted to go to him alone, and showed
him a knife, beads, &c. to induce him to come to me, —
but he, in return, made an hostile display of his bow and’
arrows; and, having for a time exhibited a variety of
strange antics, again disappeared. However, he soon
presented himself in another quarter, and after a succes-
sion of parleys between us, he engaged to come and ace
company us.

While these negotiations were proceeding, I propane
visit the fishing machines, to whichthe women readily con-
sented, and I found in them twenty small fish, such as trout,

é

i'd bs
, y x

North-West Continent of America. 231

carp, and jub, for which I gave her a large knife ; a pre-
sent that appeared to be equally unexpected and gratifying
to her. Another man now came towards us, froman hill,
talking aloud from the time he appeared till he reached
us. ‘The purport of his speech was, that he threw him-
‘self upon our mercy, and we might kill him, if it was
our pleasure, but that from what he had heard, he looked
‘rather for our friendship than our enmity. He-was an
elderly person, of a decent appearance, and I gave him
some articles to conciliate him tous. ‘The first man now
followed with a lad along with him, both of whom were
the sons of the old man, and, on his arrival, he gave me
several half-dried fish, which I considered as a peace-of-
_ fermg. | After some conversation with these people, res-
pecting the country, and our future progress through-it,
we retired to rest, with sensations very different irom
those with which we had risen in the morning. ‘The wea-
_therhad been generally cloudy throughout the day, and
when the sun was obscured, extremely ‘cold for the season.
At noon I obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 52
58. 53. North latitude. I likewise took time in the after-
noone: — .
- Sunday 14. This morning we had a bright sun, with an
East wind. These people examined their ishing machines,
when they found in them a great number of small fish, and
_ we dressed as many of themas we could eat. Thus was
our departure retarded until sev ons when we proceeded
_-on our journey, accompanied by the man and his two sons.
As I did not want the younger, and should be obliged to
feed him, I. requested of his father to leave him, for the
purpose of fishing for the women. He replied, that they
were accustomed to fish for themselves, amd that I need
not be apprehensive of their encroaching upon my provi-
sions, as they were used to sustain themselves in their
journies on herbs, and the inner tegument of the bark of
trees, for the stripping of which he had a thin piece of
bone, then hanging by his side. The latter is of a glutin-
ous quality, of a clammy, sweet taste, and is generally
considered by the more interior Indians as a delicacy, ra-
ther than an article of common food. Our guide informed
me that there is a short cut across the mountains, but as
there was no trace of a road, and it would shorten our
journey but one day, he should prefer the beaten way.

222 Fournal of a Voyage through the

We accordingly proceeded along a lake, West five miles
We then crossed a small river, and passed through a
swampy, about South-West, when we began gradually te
ascend for some time till we gained the summit of an hill,
where we had an extensive view to the South-East, te
which direction a considerable river appeared to flow, at
the distance of about three miles: it was represented to
me as being navigable for canoes. The descent. of this
hill was more steep than its ascent, and was. succeeded
by another, merges top, though not so elevated as the last,
afforded a view of the range of mountains, covered with
snow, which, pacts to the intelligence of our guide, —
terminates in the ocean. We now left a small lake on our
left, then crossed a creek running out of it, and at one in
the fa came to an house, of the same construction
and dimensions as have already been mentioned, but the
materials were much better prepared and finished. The
timber was squared on two sides, and the bark taken off
the two others; the ridge pole was also shaped in the same
manner, extending about eight or ten feet beyond the gable,
end, and supporting a shed over the coor; the end of it
was ced into the similitude of a snake’s head. Several
hicroglyphics and figures of a similar workmanship, and
painted with red earth, decorated the interior of the builds
ing. he inhabitants had left the house but a short time,

and there were several bags or bundles in it, which I did_
not suffer to be disturbed. Near it were two tombs, sur-
rounded in a neat manner with boards, and covered with
bark. Beside them several poles had been erected, one
of which was squared, and all of them painted. From eacky
of them were suspended several rolls or parcels of bark,
aad our guidegave the following account of them; which,
as far as we could judge from our imperfect knowledge of
the language, and the incidental errors-of interpretation, —
appeared to involve two different modes of treating their
dead; or it might be one and the same ceremony, which |
we did not distinctly comprehend: at all events, it is the
practice of these people to burn the bodies of. their (cada i
except the larger bones, whichare rolled up imbark and
suspended from poles, as Ihave already described. Ac+
cording to the other account, it appeared that they ace
tually bury their dead; and when another of the family —
dies, the remains of ia person who was last interred are
taken from the grave and burned, as has been already.

North-West Continent of America. S65

mentioned ; so that the members of a family are thus suc-
cessively buried and burned, to make room for each
other; and one tomb proves suiicient for a family through
succeedimg gencrations. ‘There is no house in this coun-
try without a tomb in its vicinity. Our last course ex-
tended about ten miles.

We continued our journey along the lake before the
house, and, crossing a river that flowed out of it, came to
a kind of bank, or weir, formed by the ee, for the
purpose of placing their fishing machines, many of which,
of different sizes, were lying on the side of the river. Our
guide placed one of them, with the certain expectation
that on his return he should find plenty of fishin it. We
proceeded nine miles further, on a good road, West-
South-West, when we came to a small lake: we then
crossed a river that ran out of it, and our guides were in
continual expectation of meeting with some of the natives.
To this place our course was a mile and an half, in the
same direction as the last. At nine at night we crossed a
river on rafts, our last distance being about four miles
South-East, on a winding road, through a swampy coun-
try, and along a succession of smalllakes. We-were now
quite exhausted, and it was absolutely necessary for us to
stop for the night. The weather being clear throughout
the day, we had no reason to complain of the cold. Our
guides encouraged us with the hope that, in two days of
similar exertion, we should arrive among the people of the
_ other nation.

Monday 15. At five this morning we were again in mo-
| se: and passing along ariver, we at length forded it.
This stream was not more than knee deep, about thirty
yards over, and with a stony bottom. The old man went
onward by himself, in the hope of falling in with the people,
whom he expected to meet in the course of the day. At
eleven we came up with him, and the natives whom he ex-
pected, consisting of five men, and part of their families.
They received us with great kindness, and examined us
with the most minute attention. They must, however,

have been told that we were white, as our ice no longer
indicated that distinguishing complection. They called
themselves Neguia Dinais, and were come in a different
direction from us, but were now going the same way, to
the Anah-yoe Tesse, or River, and appeared to be very
much satisfied with our having joined them, They pre-

994, Fournal of a Voyage through the

sented us with some fish which they had just taken in the
adjoining lake.

Here I expected that our guides, like. their ta deeee
sors, would have quitted us, but, on the contrary, they
expressed themselves to be so happy in our company, and
that of their friends, that they voluntarily, and with great
cheerfulness, proceeded to pass another night with us.
‘Our new acquaintance were people of a very pleasing
nl pao The hair of the women wastied in large, loose

knots over the cars, and plaited with great neatness from

the division of the head, so as to be included in the knots.

Some of them had domnea their tresses with beads, with

a very pretty effect. The men were clothed in leather,
their hair was nicely combed, and their complection was
fairer, or perhaps it may ‘be said, with more propriety,
that they were more cleanly, than any of the natives whom
we had yet seen. ‘Their eyes, though keen and sharp, are
not of that dark colour, so generally observable in the va-

rious tribes of Indians; they were, on the contrary, of a —

grey hue, with a tinge of red. There was one man
amongst them of at least six feet four inches in height; his

manners were affable, and he had a more prepossessing
appearance than any Indian I had met with in my journey; —
he was about twenty-eight years of age, and was treated |

with particular respect by his party. Every man, woman,

and chil, carried a proportionate burden, consisting of

beaver-coating and parchment, as well as skins of the otter,
the marten, the bear, the lynx, and dressed moose-skins.
The last they procure from the Rocky-Mountain Indians.
According to their account, the people of the sea coast
prefer them to any other article. Several of their relations
and friends, they said, were already gone, as well pro-
vided as themselves, to barter with the people of the coast;
who barter them in their turn, except the dressed leather,
with white people, who, as they had been informed, arrive
there in large canoes.

Such an escort was the most fortunate circumstance that :
could happen in our favour. ‘They told us, that as the ,

women and children could not travel fast, we should be
three cays in getting tothe end of our journey ; which

must be supposed to have been very agreeable injormation
to people in our exhausted condition.

In about half an hour after we had joined our new ac-
quaintance, the signal for moving onwards was given by

North-West Continent of America, 225.

the léader of the party, who vociferated the words, Huy,
Huy, when his people joined him and continued a clamor-
6us conversation. We passed along a winding road over

hills, and through swampy vallies, from South to West.

We then crossed a deep, narrow river, which discharges
itself into a lake, on whose side we stopped at five in the
afternoon, for the night, though we had reposed several
times since twelve at noon ; so that our mode of travelling
had undergone a very agreeable change. I compute the

distance of this day’s journev at about twenty miles. In

the middle of the day the weather was clear and sultry.
We alli sat down on a very pleasant green spot, and were
no sooner seated, than our guide and one of the party pre-

_ pared to engage in play. They had each a bundle of about

fifty small sticks, neatly polished, of the size of a quill, and
five inches long: a certain number of thesessticks had red
lines round them; and as many of these as one of the
players might find convenient were curiously rolled up in
dry grass, and according to the judgment of his antagonist
respecting their number, and marks, he lost or won. Our
friend was apparently the loser, as he parted with his bow
and arrows, and several articles which I had given him.
Tuesday 16. The weather of this morning was the
same as yesterday; but our fellow-travellers were in no
hurry to proceed, and I was under the necessity of pressing

them into greater expedition, by representing the almost
exhausted state of our provisions. They, however, as-
- $ured us, that after the next night’s sleep we should arrive

at the river where they were going, and that we should
there get fish in great abundance. My young men, from
an act of imprudence, deprived themselves last night of
that rest which was so necessary to them. One of the
Strangers asking them several questions respecting us, and
concerning their own country, one of them gave such

‘answers as were not credited bv the audience ; whereupon

he demanded, in a very angry tone, if they thought he was
disposed to tell lies, like the Rocky-Mountain Indians ;
and one of that tribe happening to be of the party, a quarrel
énsued, which might have been attended with the most
serious consequences, if it had not been fortunately pre-

vented by the interference of those who were not interested

in the dispute.
Though our stock of provisions was oetting so low, I

| leeséeminea, nevertheless, to hide about twenty pounds of

aE

226 Journal of a Voyage through the

pemmican, by way of providing against our return. E
therefore left two of the men behind, with directions to
bury it, as usual, under the place where we had made our
fire.

Our course was about West-South-West by the side of
the lake, and in about two miles we came to the end of it.
Here was a general halt, when my men overtook us. I
was now informed, that some people of another tribe were
sent for, who wished very much to see us, two of whom
would accompany us over the mountains; that, as for
themselves, they had changed their mind, and minedall to
follow a sina river which casted out of the lake, and went
in.a direction very different from the line of our journey.
This was a disappointment, which, though not uncommon

to us, might have been followed by considerable inconve-.

fieaiies..| It was my wish to continue with them what-
ever way they went; but neither my promises or entrea-
ties would avail: these people were not to be turned from
their purpose ; and when I represented the low state of
our provisions, one of them answered, that if we would
stay with them all night, he would boil a kettle of fish-roes
for us. Accordingly, without receiving any answer, he
began to make preparation to fulfil his engagement. He
took the roes out of a bag, and having bruised them be-
tween two stones, put them in water to soak. His wife
then took an handful of dry grass in her hand, with which
she squeezed them through her fingers; in the mean time
her husband was employed in gathering wood to make a
fire, for the purpose of heating stones. When she had
finished her operation, she filled a watape kettle nearly
full of water, and poured the roes into it. When the
stones were sufficiently heated, some of them were put
into the kettle, and others were thrown in from time to
time, till the water was in a state of boiling; the woman
also continued stirring the contents of the kettle, till

they were brought to a thick consistency; the stones were

then taken out, and the whole was seasoned. with about
a pint of strong rancid oil. ‘The smell of this curious dish

was sufficient to sicken me without tasting it, but the
hunger of my people surmounted the nauseous meal, |

When unadulterated by the stinking oil, these boil
roes are not unpalatable food.

In the mean time four of the people who had been ex- i"

pected, arrived, and, according to the account given of

North-West Continent of America. 27

them, were of two tribes whom I had not yet known.
‘After some conversation, they proposed, that I should
vontinue my route by their houses; but the old guide,
who was now preparing to leave us, informed me that it
would lengthen my journey; and by his advice I proposed
to them to conduct us along the road which had been al-
ready marked out tous. ‘This they undertook without the
least hesitation; and, at the same time, pointed out to me

the pass in the mountain, bearmg South by East by com-
pass. Here I had a meridian altitude, and took time.

- At four in the afternoon we parted with our late fellow-
travellers in a very friendly manner, andimmediately ford-
edtheriver. The wild parsnip, which luxuriates on the
borders of the lakes and rivers, 1s a favourite food of the
natives: they roast the tops of this plant, in their tender
state, over the fire, and taking off the outer rind, me are
then a very palatable food.

~ We now entered the woods, and sometime after sited

onthe banks of another river that flowed from the moun-

tain, which we also forded. The country soon after we
left the river was swampy; and the fire having passed
through it, the number of trees, which had fallen, added

to the toil of our journey. Ina short time we began to

ascend, and continued ascending till nine at night. We

waiked upwards of fourteen miles, according to my com-
putation, in the course of the day, though the straight line

of distance might not be more thanten. Notwithstanding
that we were surrounded by mountains covered withsnow,
we were very much tormented with musquitoes.

_ Wednesday 17. Beforethe sun rose, our guides sum-

“moned us to proceed, when we descended into a beautiiul

valley, watered by asmallriver. At eight we came to the
termination of it, where we saw a great number of moles,

and began again to ascend. We now perceived many >

ground-hogs, and heard them whistle in every direction.
‘The Indians went in pursuit of them, and soon joined us

with a female and her litter, almost grown to their full
‘size. ‘They stripped off their skins, and gave the carca-

ses to my people. They also pulled up a root, which
appeared like a bunch of white berries of the size of a

“pea; its shape was that of a fig, while it had the colour

and taste of a potatoe.
We now gained the summit of the mountain, and

‘found ourselves surrounded by snow. But this circum~

228 Fournal of a Veyage through the

stance is caused rather by the quantity of snow drifted
in the pass, than the real height of the spot as the sur-
rounding mountains rise to a much higher degree of ele-
vation. The snow had become so compact that our feet
hardly made a perceptible impression on it. We observ-
ed, however, the tracks of an herd of small deer which
naa have passed a short time before us, and the Indians
and my hunters went immediately in pursuit of them.
Our-way was now nearly level, without the least snow, and _
nota tree to be seen in any partof it. ‘The grass is very _
short, and the soil a reddish clay, intermixed with small
stones. The face of the hills, where they are not enliven-
ed with verdure, appears at a distance, as if fire had pas-
sed over them. It now began to hail, snow, and rain, nor —
could we find any shelter but the leeward side of an huge
rock. The wind also rose into a tempest, and the weather
was as distressing as any I had ever experienced. After
an absence of an hour and an half, our hunters brought a
small doe of the rein-deer species, which was all they had —
killed, though they fired twelve shots at a large herd of —
hy Their ill success they attributed to the weather,
I proposed to leave half of the venison in the snow, but
the men preferred carrying it, though their strength was
very much exhausted. We hai been so long shivering
with cold in this situation, that we were glad to renew our
march. .Here and there were scattered a few crowberry
bushes and stinted willows; the former of which had not
yet blossomed. :
Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-
clad. summit was lost in the clouds; elo. it and our.
immediate course, flowed the river to which we were
going. The Indians. informed us that it was at no great
distance. As soon as we could gather a sufficient quans
tity of wood, we stopped to dress some of our venison;
and it is almost superfluous to add, that we made an hear-
tier meal than we had done for many a day before. To
the comfort which I have just mentioned, I added that of
taking off my beard, as well as changing my linen, and my
people followed the humanising example. We then set
forwards, and came to a large pond, on whose bank we
found a tomb, but lately made, with a pole, as usual,
erected beside it, on which two figures of birds were
painted, and. by them the guides. distinguished the tribe
to which the deceased person belonged. One of them,

North-West Continent of America. 399

very unceremoniously, opened the bark and shewed us
the bones whichit contained, while the other threw down
the pole, and having poasesuad himself of the feathers
that were tied to it, fixed them on his ownhead. I there-
fore conjectured, that these funeral memorials belonged
to an individual of a tribe at enmity with them.

We continued our route with a considerable degree of
expedition, and as we proceeded, the mountains appeared.
to withdraw from us. The country between them soon
opened to our view, which apparently added to their awful

elevation. We continued to descend till we came to the
brink of a precipice, from whence our guides discovered
ariver to us, and a village on its banks. ‘This precipice,
or rather succession of precipices, is covered with large
timber, which corsists of the pine, the spruce, the hem-
Jock, the birch, and other trees. Our conductors inform-
ed us, that ie abounded in animals, which, from their
description, must be wild goats. In about two hours we
arrived at the bottom, where there is a conflux of two
rivers, that issue from the mountains. We crossed the
one which was to the left. “hey are both very rapid, and
continue so till they unite their currents, forming a stream
ef about twelve yards in breadth. Here the timber was
also very large; but I could not learn from our conductors
why the most considerable hemlock trees were stripped of
their bark to the tops of them. I concluded, indeed, at
that time, that the inhabitants tanned their leather with we
Here were also the largest and loftiest elder and cedar
trees that I had ever seen. We were now sensible of an
entire erat in the climate, and the berries were quite
ripe.

‘The sun was about to set, when our conductors left us
to follow them as well as we could. We were prevented,
however, from going far astray, for we were hemmed in
on both sides, and behind by-such a barrier as nature never
before presented to my view. Our guides had the pre-
caution to mark the road for us, by breaking the branches
of trees as they passed. This small river must, atcertain
seasons, rise to an uncommon height and strength of cur-
rent most probably on the melting of the snow; as we saw
a large quantity of drift wood lying twelve feet above the
immediate level of the river. This circumstance impeded
our progress, and the protruding rocks frequently forced
us to pass through the water. It was now dark, without

230 Fournal of a Voyage through the

the least appearance of houses, though it would be imposs
sible to have seen them, if there had been any, at the dis--
tance of twenty yards, from the thickness of the woods.
My men were anxious to stop for the night; indeed the
fatigue they had suffered justified the proposal, and I left:
them to their choice ; but as the anxiety of my mind im-
pelied me forwards, ugh continued to follow me, til I
found myself at the edge of the woods ; and, notwithstand-°
ing the remonstrances that were made, I proceeded, feeling
rather than seeing my way, till I arrived at an house, and
soon discovered several fires, in small huts, with people:
busily employed 1 in cooking their fish. I walked into one
oi them without the least ceremony, threw down my bur-
den, and, after shaking hands with some of the people, sat
down upon it. They ‘received me without’ the ‘least ap-
pearance of surprise, but soon made signs for me to go up
to the large house, which was erected, on upright posts, at
some distance from the ground. <A broad piece of timber
with steps cut in it, led to the scaffolding even with the
floor, and by this curious kind of ladder I entered the house
at one end; and having passed three fires, at equal dis-
tances in the middle of the building, I was received by
séveral people, sitting upona very wide board, at the upper
end of it. Ishook hands with them, and seated myself
beside a man, the dignity of whose countenance induced
me to give him that preference. I soon discovered one of
my guides seated a little above me, with a neat mat spread
before him, which I supposed to be the place of honour,
and appropriated to strangers. Ina short time my people
arrived, and placed themselves near me, when the man by
whom I sat, immediately rose, and fetches from behind
a plank of about four feet wide, a quantity of roasted sal-
mon. He then directed a mat to be placed before me and ©
Mr. Mackay, who was now sitting by me. When this —
ceremony was performed, he broughta‘salmon foreach of
us, and half anone to each of my men. The same plank ©
served also asa screen for the beds, whither the women
and children were already retired; but whether that cirs —
cumstance took place on our arrival, or was the natural
consequence of the late hour of the “aight, I did not dis-
cover. The signs of our protector seemed to denote, that
we might sleep in the house, but as we did not understand
him with a sufficient degree of certainty, I thought it pru-
dent, from the fear of giving offence, to order the men to

3 “eq

North-West Continent of America. 231

make a fire without, that we might sleep by it. When he
observed our design, he placed boards for us, that we
might not take our repose on the bare ground, and ordered

-afire to be prepared forus. Wehad not been long seated

round it, when we received a large dish of salmon roes,
pounded fine, and beat up with water, so as to have the
appearance ofacream. Nor was it without some kind of
seasoning that gave it abitter taste. Another dish soon
followed, the principal article of which was also salmon-

. woes, with a large proportion of gooseberries, and an herb

that appeared to ybe sorrel. Its acidity rendered it more
agreeable to my taste than the former preparation. Hav-
ing been regaled with these delicacies, for such they were
considered by that hospitable spirit which provided them,
we laid ourselves down to rest, with no other canopy than
the sky; but I never enjoyed a more sound and refreshing
rest, though I hada board for my bed, and a billet for my
pillow.. ,

_ Thursday 18. At five this morning I awoke, and found
that the natives had lighted a fire for us, and were sitting
by it. My hospitable friend immediately brought me
some berries and roasted salmon, and his companions soon
followed his example. ‘The former, which consisted among
many others, of gooseberries, whirtleberries, and rasp-
berries, were the,finest I ever saw or tasted, of their res-

pective kinds. ‘hey also brought the dried roes of fish to

eat with the berries.

- Salmon is so abundant in this river, that these people
have a constant and plentiful supply of that excellent fish.

To take them with more facility, they had, with great la-

bour, formed an embankment or weir across the river for

_ the purpose of placing their fishing machines, which they
disposed both above and below it. I expressed my wish
- to visit this extraordinary work, but these people are so
‘superstitious, that they would not allow mea nearer exa-

mination than I could obtain by viewing it from the bank.
The river is about fifty yards in breadth, and by observ-
ing a man fish with a dipping net, I judged it to be about
ten feet deep at the foot of the fall. The weir is a work
of great labour, and contrived with considerable ingenuity.

It was near Sees feet above the level of the water, at the
time I saw it, and” nearly the height of the bank on which
I stood to examine it. The stream is stopped nearly two
thirds by it. Itis constructed by fixing small trees in the

232 Journad of a Voyage through the

bed of the river ina slanting position (which could be pracs

ticable only when the water is much lower than I saw it)

with the thick part downwards ;_ over these is laid a bed
of gravel, on which is placed a range of lesser trees, and

soon alternatel y till the work is brought to its proper
height. Beneath it the machines are placed, into which
the salmon fall when they attempt to leap over. On either
side there is a large frame of timber-work six feet above
the level of the upper water, in which passages are left
for the salmon leading ditectly into the machines, which
are taken up at pleasure. At the foot of the fall dipping
nets are also successtully employed.

The water of this river is of the colour of asses milk;
which [I attributed in part to the limestone that in many
places forms the bed of the river, but principally to the

rivulets which fall from mountains of the same material.
_. These people indulge an extreme superstition respecting
their fish, as it is apparently their only animal food. Flesh
they never taste, and one of their dogs having picked and
‘swallowed a part of a bone which we had left, was beaten
by his master till he disgorged it. One of my people also
having thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a native,
who had observed the circumstance, immediately dived
and brought it up, and having consigned it to the firey in-
stantly proceeded to wash his polluted hands, iy ge

As we were still at some distance from the sea, I made
application to my friend to procure us a canoe or two,
with people to conduct us thither. After he had made
various excuses, I at length comprehended that his only
objection was to the embarking venison in a canoe on their
‘river, as. the fish would instantly smell it and abandon
them, so that he, his friends, and relations, must starve.
I soon eased his sos LSC Dh on that point, and desired
to know what I must do with the venison that remained,
when he told me to give it to one of the strangers whorn

he pointed out to me, as being of a tribe that eat flesh.

I now requested him to furnish me with some fresh salmon
in its raw state; but instead of complying with my wish,
he brought me a couple of them roasted, observing, at the

same time, that the current was very strong, and would.

bring us to the next village, where our wants would be
abundantly supplied. In short,. he requested that: we
would make haste to depart. This was rather unexpected
ane so much kindness and hespitality, but our ignerance

North-West Continent of America. 233

ofthe language prevented us from being able to discover
ag cause.

» At eight this morning, fifteen men, sabes the friends
lead relations of these people, ubwived by land in conse-
quence of notice sent them in the night, immediately
after the appearance of our guides. They are more. cor-
pulent and of a better appearance than the inhabitants of
the interior. Their language totally different from any I
had heard; the Atnah or Chin tribe, as far as I can judge
from the very little I saw of that people, bear the nearest
resemblance to them. ‘They appear to be of a quiet and
peaceable character, and never make any hostile incursions
into the lands of their neighbours. |

Their dress consists of asingle robe tied over the shoul-
ders, falling down behind, to the heels, and before, a lit-
tle below the knees, witha deep fringe round the bottom.
It is generally made of the bark of the cedar tree, which
they prepare as fine as hemp: though some of these gar-
ments are interwoven with strips of the sea-otter skin,
which give them the appearance of a fur on one side.
Others have stripes of red and yellow threads fancifulh
introduced toward the borders, which have a very agree-
able effect. ‘he men have no other covering than that
which I have described, and they unceremoniously lay it
aside when they find it convenient. In addition to this
robe the women wear a close fringe hanging down before
them about two feet in length, and half as wide. When
they sit down they draw this between their thighs. They
wear their hair so short, that it requires little care or
combing. The men have theirs in plaits, and being
‘smeared with oil and red earth, instead of a comb they
have a small stick hanging by a string from one of the
locks, which they employ to alleviate any itching or irri-
tation in the head. ‘The colour of the eye is grey witha
tinge of red. They have all high cheek-bones, but the
women are more remarkable for that ns than the
men. Their houses, arms, and utensils: I shall describe
hereafter. |

I presented my friend with several articles, and also
distributed some among others of the natives who had
been attentive to us. One of my guides had been very
serviceable in procuring canoes for us to proceed on our
expedition ; he appeared also to be very desirous of giv-

2F

ae

234 Fournal of a Voyage through the

ing these people a favourable impression of us; and I was
very much concerned that he should leave me as he did,
without giving me the least notice of his departure, or
receiving the presents which I had prepared for him, and
he so well deserved. At nooa I had an observation mich
gave 52, 28. 11. North longitude. :

LM LL LM SB

" <a

North-West Continent of America. = 238

CHAPTER X.

Continue our journey. Embark on a river. Come toa
weir. Dexterity of the natives in passing it. Arrive at
a village. Alarm occasioned among the natives. The
subsequent favourable reception, accompanied with a ban-
quet of ceremony. Circumstances of zt. Description of
avillage, its houses, and places of devotion. Account of
the customs, mode of living, and superstition of the inha-
bitants. Description of the Chief’s canoe. Leave the
place, and proceed on our voyage.

}ULY, ; a t , 1
bes t Ay one in the afternoon we embarked, with our

small baggage, in two canoes, accompanied by seven of

the natives. The stream was rapid, and ran upwards of

six miles an hour. We came toa weir, such as I have
already described, where the natives landed us, and shot
over it without taking a drop of water. They then receiv-
ed us on board again, and we continued our voyage, pas-
sing many canoes on the river, some with people in them,
and others empty. We proceeded at a very great rate for
about two hours and an half, when we were informed that
we must land, asthe village was only at ashort distance.
I had imagined that the Canadians who accompanied me.
were the most expert canoe-men inthe world, but they
are very inferior to these people, as they themselves ac-
knowledged, in conducting those vessels.

Some of the Indians ran before us, to announce our ap-
proach, when we took our bundles and followed. We
had walked along a well-beaten path, through a kind of
coppice, when we were informed of the arrival of our |
couriers at the houses, by the loud and confused talking
of the inhabitants. As we approached the edge of the
wood, and were almost in sight of the houses, the Indians
who were before me, made signs for me to take the lead,
and that they would follow. The noise and confusion of
the natives now seemed to increase, and when we came in
sight of the village, we saw them running from house
to house, some armed with bows and arrows, others
with spears, and many with axes, as if in a state of great
alarm. This very unpleasant and unexpected circum-

236 ‘fournal ofa Voyage through the

=

stance, I attributed to our sudden arrival, and the very ~

short notice of it which had been given diem At all

events, I had but one line of conduct to pursue, which
‘was to walk resolutely up to them, without manifesting
any signs of apprehension at ‘their hostile appearance.
This resolution produced the desired effect, for as we ap-~
proached the houses, the greater part of ithe -people laid
down their weapons, and came forward to meet us. I

was, however, soon obliged to SUE from the number of

then that suiveunited me. Ishook hands, as usual with
such as were the ‘nearest to me, when an elderly man
broke gel gens the. crowd, and took me in his arms;

another then came, who maven him away without the ~

least ceremon i and paid me the same compliment. - The
latter was followed by a young man, whom I understood
to be his son. These embraces, which at first rather sur-

prised me, I soon found to be marks of regard and friend=

ship. The cro owd pressed with so much violence and can-

tention to get a view of us, that we could not move in any ~
direction. An opening was at length made to allow a
person to approach me, whom the old man made me un- >

derstand was another of his sons. I instantly stepped

forward to meet him, and presented my hand, whereupon i
he broke the string of a Manns handsome robe of sea-otter —
skin, which he had on, and covered me with it. This was

as flattering a reception as I could possibly receive, espe-'

cially as I considered him to be the eldest son of the “chtet: :
Indeed it appeared to me that we had been detained here

for the purpose of giving him time to bring the robe with

which he had presented me. ai,

The chiefnow made signs for us to follow him, and he
conducted us through a narrow coppice, for several hun-

dred yards, till we came to an house built on the ground,
which was of larger dimensions, and formed of better ma-—

terials than any I had hitherto seen; it was his residence.
We were no sooner arrived there, than he directed mats

_to be spread before it, on which we were told to take our

seats, when the men of the village, who came to indulge -

their curiosity, were ordered to keep behind us. In our
front other mats were placed, where the chief and his

counsellors took their seats. In the intervening space,

mats, which were very. clean, and of a much neater work-
manship than those on which we sat, were also spread, and
a small roasted salmon placed before each of us. ‘When

a

RES

\

srth-West Continent of America. 23%

we had wotiufied ourselves with the fish, one of the people
who came with us from the last village appr oached, witha
kind of ladle in one hand, containing oil, and in the other
something that : aéWewmbldrt the inner rind of the cocoa-nut,
but of alighter colour ; this he dipped in the oil, and, hav ing
eatiit, indicated by his gestures how palatable’ ke thought
it. Hathen presented me with a smail piece of it, which
I chose to taste in its dry state, though the oil was free
-from any unpleasant smell. A square cake of this was
next produced, when a man tock it to the water near the
house, and having thoroughly soaked it, he returned, and,
after he had pulled it to pieces like oakuny; put it — a
well-made trough, about three feet long, nine inches wide,
and five deep; he then plentifully epeinietce it with sollte
oil, and maniiested by his own example that we were to
eat of as) WT just it A it, und found the oil perteetly
sweet, without which the other ingredients would have
been very insipid. The chief partook of it with great
avidity, after it had received an additional quantity of oil.
This dish is considered by these people as a great deli-
cacy ; and on hp saenaciom I discovered it to consist of

-» the inner rind of f the hemlock tree, taken off early in sum-

mer, and put into a frame, which shapes it into cakes of
fifteen inches long, ten broad, and half an inch thick; and
in this form I should suppose it may be preserved for a
great length of time. This discovery satisfied me re-
specting the many hemlock trees which I had observed
stripped of their bark.

In this situation we remained for upwards of three
hours, and not one of the curious natives left us during all
that time, except a party of ten or twelve of them, whom

the chief ordered to go and catch fish, which they did in

great abundance, with dipping nets, at the foot of the
weir. .

* At length we were relieved fos the gazing crowd, and |
got a lodge erected, and covered in for our reception dur-
ing the night. I now presented the young chief with a
_ blanket, in return for the robe with which he had favoured
me, anid several other articles, that appeared to be very
gratifying to him. [also presented some to his father,
and amongst them was a pair of scissars, whose use I ex-
plained tu him, for clipping his beard, which was of great
length ; and to that purpose he immediately applied them.
My distribution of similar articles was also extended to

288 Fournal of a Voyage through the 7

others, who had been attentive tqus. The comniunication;
however, between us was awkward and inconvenient, for
it was carried on entirely by signs, as there was not #
person with me who was qualified for the office of an in-
terpreter.

We were all of us very desirous to get some fies sale
mon, that we might dress them in our own way, but could
not by any means obtain that gratification, though there
were thousands of that fish strung on cords, which were
fastened to stakes inthe river. They were even averse to
our approaching the spot where they clean and prepare them
for their own eating. They had, indeed, taken our kettle
from us, lest we should employ it in getting water from ~
the river; and they assigned as the reason for this precau-
tion, that the salmon dislike the smell of iron. At the
same time they supplied us with wooden boxes, which were
capable of holding any fluid. Two of the men that went
to fish, in a canoe capable of containing ten people, return=
ed with a full lading of salmon, that weighed from six to
forty pounds, though the far greater part of them were
under twenty. They immediately strung the whole of
them, as I have already mentioned, in theriver, = - >

I now made the tour of the village, which consisted of
four elevated houses, and seven built on the ground, be-
sides a considerable number of other buildings, or sheds,
which are used only as kitchens, and places for curing their
fish. The former are constructed by fixing a certain num-
ber of posts in the earth, on some of which are laid, and:
to others are fastened, the supporters of the floor, at abaue” :
twelve feet above the surface of the ground: their length’
is from an hundred to an hundred and twenty feet, and”
they are about forty feet in breadth. Along the centre are”
built three, four, or five hearths, for the two-fold purpose
of giving warmth, and dressing their fish. The whole’
length ‘of the building on either side is divided by cedar —
planks, into partitions or apartments of seven feet square,
in the front of which there are boards, about three feet”
wide, over which, though they are not immoveably fixed,
the inmates of. shows recesses generally pass, whenthey go
torest. The greater part of them are intended for that
purpose, and such are covered with boards, at the height —
of the wall of the house, which is about seven or eight feet, ©
and rest upon beams that stretch across the building. On-
those also are placed the chests which contain their _—

North-West Continent of America. 239

isils, and @hnipver they possess. The inter-

sions, ut

_ mediate space is sufhcient for domestic purposes. On

oles that run along the beams, hang roasted fish, and the
whole building is well covered with boards and bark, except
within a few inches of the ridge pole; where open spaces
are left on each side to let inlight and emit the smoke. -At
the end of the house that fronts the river, is a narrow scaf-
folding, which is also ascended-by a piece of timber, with
steps cutin it; and ateach corner Of this erection there are

openings, for the inhabitants toease nature. As it does
not appear tobe a custom among them to remove these
heaps of excremental filth, it may be supposed that the ¢f-.
fluvia does not annoy them.

The houses which rest on the ground are built of the
same materials, and on the same plan. A sloping stage
that rises to a cross-piece of timber, supported by two

forks, joins also to the main building, for those purposes

which need not be repeated.
When we were surrounded by the natives on our arrival,
I.counted sixty-five men, and several of them may be sup-

‘posed tu have been absent;. I cannot, therefore, calculate

the inhabitants of this village at less than two hundred souls.

The people who accompanied us hither, from the other
village, had given the Chief a very particular account of
every thing they knew concerning us: I was, therefore,
requested to produce my astronomical instruments ; nor
could I have any objection to afford them this satisfaction,

_as they would necessarily add to our importance in their

-

-

onion 3

lear the house er thexChis) Iobscixddisicveral oblong
squares, of about twenty feet by eight. They were made
of thick cedar boards, which were joined with so much
neatness, that I at first thought they were one ptece. ‘They
were painted with hieroglyphics, and figures of different
animals, and with a degree of correctness that was not to
be expected from such an uncultivated people. I could
not learn the use of them, but they appeared to be calcu-
lated for occasional acts of devotion or sacrifice, which all
these tribes perform at least twice in the year, at the spring
and fall. I was confirmed in this opinion by a large build-
ing in the middle of the village, which I at first took for
the half-finished frame of an house. The ground-plot of
it was fifty feet by forty-five; each end is formed by four
stout posts, fixed perpendicularly in the ground. The

Pe

240 Fournal of a Voyage through the —

corner ones are plain, and support: a beam of the whole |

length, having three intermediate props On-each side, but

of a larger size, and eight or nine feet in height. The

two centre posts, at each end, are:two feet and an half: in

diameter, and carved into human: figures, supporting two

ridge poles on their heads, at twelve ieet {rom the ground.
‘The figures at the upper part of this square represent two

persons, with their hands upon their knees, as if they sup-

ported the weight with pain and difficulty: the others, Op

posite to them stand at their ease, with their hands resting

on their hips.. In the era of the building there were the re-

mains of several fires. The.posts, poles, and figures, were
painted red and black ; but the snulpiane of these. peoghe ii
superior to their painting.»

friday 19. Soon after I had retired to rest last night;
the chief paid mea visit to insist on my going to his bed-
companion, and taking my place himself; but, notwith-
standing his repeated entreaties, I resisted this secre
of his hospitality.

At an early hour this morning I was again visited by. thé

chief, in company with hisson. The former complained —

of a painin his breast; to relieve his sufferings | gave him

a few drops of Turlington’s Balsam on a piece of sugar ; —

and I was rather surprised to. see him take it without the
least hesitation. When he had taken my medicine, he re-
quested me to follow him, and conducted me to a shed,
where several people were assembled round a sick man,
. whowas another of his sons. [hey immediately uncover-

ed him, and showed me a violent ulcer in the smalk of his —

back, in the foulest state that can be imagined. One. of
his ‘wa was also afflicted in the same manner. » This un-
happy man was reduced to a skeleton, and, from his ap-
pearance, was drawing near to an end ar his pains. They
requested that I wipsld touch him, and his father was very

urgent with me to administer medicine: but he was in —

such a dangerous state, that I thought it prudent to yield
no further to the importunities than to. give the sick per=
son a few drops of ‘Turlington’s balsam in some water. [

therefore left him, but was soon called back by the loud —

lamentations of the women, and was rather apprehensive
that some inconvenienge .might result from my compli-

ance with the chief’s request. On my return I found the a
native physicians busy in practising their skill and art on ;
the patient. ‘They blew on) him, and then whistled; at:

=

Ss

i

North-West Continent of America. 241

times they pressed their extended fingers, with all their
strength on his stomach; they also put their fore fingers
- doubled into his mouth, and spouted water from their own

with great violence into his face. To support these opera-
tions, the wretched sufferer was held up ina sitting pos-

ture; and when they were concluded, he was laid down

and covered with a new robe made of the skins of the
lynx. I had observed that his belly and breast were co-
vered with scars, and I understood that they were caused.
by a custom prevalent among them, of applying pieces of
lighted touch wood to their flesh, in order to relieve pain
or demonstrate their courage. He was now placed on a
broad. plank, and carried by six men into the woods, where
I was invited to accompany them. I could not conjec-

ture what would be the end of this ceremony, particularly

as | saw one man carry ire, another an axe, and a third.

dry wood. I was, indeed, disposed to suspect that, as it

was their custom to burn the dead, they intended to res
lieve the poor man from his pain, and perform the last sad

_ duty of surviving affection. When they had advanced a

short distance into the wood, they laid him upon a clear
spot, and kindled a fire against his back, when the pbysi-
cian began to scarify the ulcer with a very blunt instru-
ment, the cruelpain of which operation the patient bore

-with incredible resolution. The scene afflicted me and. L.
left it.

On my return to our lodge; I observed before the door

of the chief’s residence, four heaps of salmon, each of

which consisted of between three and four hundred fish.
Sixteen women were employed in cleaning and preparing
them. They first separate the head from the body, the

| former of which'they boil; they then cut the latter down

the back on each side of the bone, leaving one third of the
fish adhering to it, and afterwards take out the guts. The
bone is roasted for immediate use, and the other parts

are dressed in the same manner, but with more attention,

for future povision. While they are before the fire,
troughs are placed under them to receive the oil. The

roes are also carefully preserved, and form a favourite ar-

ticle of their food.
After I had observed these culinary preparations, I paid

* a visit to the chief, who presented me with a roasted sal-
mon; he then opened one of his chests, and took out of

it a garment of blue cloth, decorated with brass buttons :
2G.

249 Yournal of a Voyage through the

and another of a flowered cotton, which I supposed were
Spanish; it had been trimmed with leather fringe, after
the fashion of their own cloaks. Copper and brasé are
in great estimation among them, and of the former they
have great plenty ; they point their arrows and spears with
it, and work it up into personal ornaments ;- such as col-
lars, ear-rings, and bracelets, which they wear on their
Wrists, arms, and legs. I presume they find it the most
advantageous article of trade with the more inland tribes.
They also abound in iron. I saw some of their twisted.
collars of that metal which weighed upwards of twelve
pounds. Itis generally in bars of fourteen inches in length,

and one inch, three quarters wide. ‘The brass is in thin
squares ; their copper is in large pieces, and some of it
appeared to be old stills cut up. ‘They have various trin-
kets ; but their manufactured iron consists only of pons
iards and daggers. Some of the former have very neat han-
dies, with a silver coin of a quarter or eighth of a dollar
_ fixed on the end of them. ‘The blades of the latter are
from ten to twelve inches in length, and about four inches
broad at the top, from which they gradually lessen into a
point.

When I produced my instruments to take an Atel
I was desired not to make use of them. I could not then
discover the cause of this request, but I experienced the
good effect of the apprehension which they occasioned, as
it was very effectual in hastening my departure. © ‘Thad
applied several times to the chief to prepare canoes and
people to take me and my party to the sea, but very little
attention had been paid to my application till noon; when
I was informed that a canoe was properly equipped for my
voyage, and that the young chief would accompany me.
I now discevered that they had entertained no ‘personal
fear of the instruments, but were apprehensive that the
operation of them might frighten the salmon from that
part of the river. The observation taken in this a
gave me 52. 25. 52. North latitude.

In compliance with the chief’s request, I desired my’
people to take their bundles, ard lay them down on the
banks of the river. In the mean time I went to take the
dimensions of his large canoe, in which, it was signified
to me, that about ten winters ago he went a considerable
distance towards the mid-day sun, with forty of his peo-

ple, when he saw two large vessels full of such mien as

North-West Continent of America. 243

myself, by whom he was kindly received; they were, he
said, the first white people he had seen. ‘They were pro-
bably the ships commanded by Captain Cook. This ca-
noe was built of cedar, forty-five feet long, four feet wide,
and three feet and ahalf indepth. It Was painted black

and decorated with white figures of fish of different kinds.

‘The gunwale, fore and aft, was inlaid with the teeth of
the sea-otter.*

_ When I returned to the river, ‘the natives who were to
accompany us, and my people, were already in the canoe.
"The latter, however, informed me, that one of our axes
was missing. I immediately applied to the chief, and re-
quested its restoration; but he would not understand me
till [ sat myself down on a stone, with my arms in a state
of preparation, and made it appear to him that I should
not depart till the stolen article was restored. The village
was immediately, in a. state of uproar, and some danger
was apprehended from the confusion that prevailed in it.
The axe, however, which had been hidden under the
chief’s canoe, was soon returned. ‘Though this instru-
ment was not, in itself, of sufficient value to justify a dis-
pute with these peuple. I apprehended that the suffering
them to keep it, after we had declared its loss, might have
occasioned the loss of every thing we carried with us, and
of our lives also. My people were dissatisfied with me
at the moment: but I thought myself right then, and, I
think now, that the circumstances in which we were in-

volved, justified the measure which I adopted.

* As Captain Cook has mentioned, that the people of the sea-coast
adorned their canoes with human teeth, I was more particular in my
inquiries ; the result of which was, the most satisfactory proof, that
he was mistaken: but his mistake arose from the very great resem-
blance there is between pane teeth and those of the sea-otter.

LL LLL LIS L

244, Fournal of a Voyage through the.

CHAPTER XI.
! ! i
Renew our voyage. Circumstances of the river. Land at
the house of a Chief. Entertained by him. Carried down
the river with great rapidity to another house. Received
with kindness. Occupations of the inhabitants on its banks.
Leave the canoe at a fall. Pass over land to another vil-
lage. Some account of it. Obtain a view of an arm of
the sea. Loseour dog. Procure another canoe. Arrive
at the arm of the sea. Circumstances of it. One. of our
guides returns home. Coast along a bay. Some descrip-
tion oft. Meet with Indians. Our communication with
them. Their susprcious conduct towards us. Pass on=
wards. . Determine the latitude and loneitude.. Return
to the river. Dangerous encounter with the Indians.
Proceed on our journey.

aes tAs one in the afternoon we renewed our voy-
age ina large canoe, with four of the natives. We found
the river almost one continued rapid, and in half an hour
we came to an house, where, however, we did not land,
though invited by the inhabitants. In about an hour we
arrived at two houses, where we were, in some degree,
obliged to go onshore, as we were informed that the owner
oi them was a person of consideration. He indeed re-.
ceived and regaled us in the same manner as at the last.
village ; and to increase his consequence, he produced
many European articles, and amongst them were at least
forty pounds weight of old copper stills. We made our
stay as short as possible, and our host embarked with us.
In a very short time we were carried by the rapidity of the
current to another house of very large dimensions, which
was partitioned into different apartments, and whose doors
were on the side. The inhabitants received us with great
kindness; but instead of fish, they placed a long, clean,
and well made trough before us, full of berries. In addi-
tion to those which we had already seen, there were some
black, that were larger than the hurtle-berry, and of a
richer flavour: and others white, which resembled the
blackberry in every thing but colour. Here we saw a wo-
man ok, two pieces of copper in her under lip, as des-

»,

:

were 8. *

canoe. They recommended usto leave ours

\
North-West Continent of America: 945°

-cribed by asec Cook. Icontinued mv usual practice of
making these people presents inreturn for their friendly re-
ception and entertainment.

‘The navigation of the river now became more difficult,
from the numerous channels into which it was div ‘ded,
without any sensible diminution in the velocity of its cur-
rent. Wesoon reached another house of the common
size, where we were well received; but whether our

guides had informed them that we were not in want of

any thing, or that ~ were deficient in inclination, or
perhaps the means, of being hospitable to us, they did not
offer us any teitechment, They were in a state of busy
preparation. Some of the women were employed in beat-
ing and preparing the inner rind of the cedar bark, to
which they gave the appearance of flax. Others were
spinning with a distaff and spindle. One of them was
weaving a robe of it intermixed with the stripes oi the
‘sea-otter skin, on a frame of adequate contrivance that

was placed against the side of the house. The men were
fishing on the river with drag-nets between two canoes.
‘These nets are forced by poles to the bottom, the current

driving them before it; by which means the salmon com-
ing up the river are intercepted, and give notice of their

being taken by the struggles they make in the bag or sleeve

of. the net. ‘There are no weirs in this part of the river,

as I suppose, from the numerous channels into which it is
divided. The machines, therefore, are placed along the

banks, and consequently these people are not so well a

plied with fish as the village which has been already de-
‘scribed, nor do they appear to possess the same industry.

The inhabitants of the last house accompanied. - ina large
ere, as the.
next village was but at asmall distance from us, and the wa-

ter more rapid than that which we had passed. They in-

formed us also, that we were approaching a cascade. 1

directed them to shoot it, and proceeded myself to the.
foot thereof, where I re-imbarked, and we went on with
_ great velocity, till we came to a ‘fall, where we left our
-canoe, and carried our luggage along a road through a
“wood for some hundred yards, when we came to a village,
consisting of six very large houses, erected on. pallisades,
rising twenty-five feet from the ground, which differed in
no one circumstance from those already described, but the
height of their elevation. They contained only four men

245 Fournal of a Voyage through the.

and their families. The rest of the inhabitants were with,
us and in the small houses which we passed higher up. the

river.* ‘These people do not seem to enjoy the abundance ~

of their neighbours, as the men who returned from fishing
‘had no more than ve: salmon ; they refused to sell one of
them, but gave me one roasted of a very indifferent kind.
En she houses there were several chests or boxes contains
ing different articles that belonged to the people whom we
had lately passed. If I were to judge by the heaps of filth
beneath these buildings, they must have been erected at 3
more distant period than any which we had passed. From
these houses I could perceive the termination of. the ri-
ver, and its discharge into a narrow.arm of the sea,

As it was now half past six in the evening, and the

weather cloudy, I determined to remain here for the night,
and for that purpose we possessed ourselves of one of the
unoccupied houses. The remains of our last meal, which
we brought with us, served for our supper, as we could
not procure a single fish from the natives. ‘The course of
the river is about West, and the distance from the great
village upwards of thirty-six miles. There we had as
our dps a circumstance of no small regrettome.
Saturday 20. Werose at a very early hour this morn-

ing, when I proposed to the Indians to run down our

eanoe, Or procure another at this place. ‘Yo both these -

proposals they turned a deaf ear, as they imagined that I
should be satisfied with having come in sight of. the sea,
Two of them peremptorily refused to proceed ; but the

ther two having consented to continue with us, we ob-

tained a larger canoe than our former one, and Cheah it

was in ale caky state we were glad to possess it, ie

At about eight we got out of the river, which Bivchenels

itself by various channels into an arm of the sea. ‘Phe. |

tide was out, and had left a large space covered with sea
= The surrounding hills were involved in fog. The
Wind was West, which was a-head of us, and very strong;

the bay appearing to be from one tothree miles in breadth,

As we advanced along the land we saw a great number of.

sea-otters. We fired several shots at them, but without.

any success from the rapidity with which they plunge under.
the water. We also saw many small porpoises or divers.
‘Fhe white-headed eagle, which is common in the interior —

* Mr. Johnstone came to these Cid the iret seleg obi the Le cota
month. ie ee ae" Je a

~eTEG

a

North-West Continent of America. 247

‘parts ; some small gulls, a dark bird which is inferior in
‘size to the gull, and a few small ducks, were all the birds
-which presented themselves to our view.

At two in the afternoon the swell was so high, and. the
winds which was against us, so boisterous, that we could

not proceed with our leaky vessel, we therefore landed in

a small cove on the right side of the bay. Opposite to us
appeared another small bay, in the mouth of which is an

island, and where, according to the information of the

Indians, a river discharges itself that abounds in salmon.
Our young Indians now discovered a very evident dis-
pusition to leave us; and, in the evening, one of them
made his escape. Mr. Mackay, however, with the other,
pursued and brought him back; but as it was by no means
necessary to detain him, particularly as provisions did not
abound with us, I gave him a small portion, with a-pair of
shoes, which were necessary for his j journey, and a silk
handkerchief, telling him at the same time, that he might
go and inform his friends, that we should also return in
three nights. He accordingly left us, and his companion,

‘the young Chief, went with him.

When we landed, the tide was going out, and at a quar-

ter past four it was ebb, the water having fallen in that

short period eleven fectidind an half. Since we: left the
river, not a quarter of an hour had passed in which we did
not see porpoises and sea-otters. Soon after ten it was
high water, which rendered it necessary that our baggage
should be shifted several times, though not till some of

‘the things had been wetted.

' We were now reduced to the necessity of looking out
for fresh water, with which we were plentifully supplied
by the rills that ran down from the mountains.

- When it was dark, the young Chief returned to us, bear-
ing a large porcupine on his back. He first cut the animal
open, and having disencumbered it of the entrails, threw
them into the sea; he then singed its skin, and boiled itin
separate pieces, as our kettle was not sufficiently capacious
to contain the whole: nor did he goto rest, till, with the
assistance of two of my people who a to be awake,
every morsel of it was devoured.

“Thad flattered myself with the hope of getting a diuthice
of the moon and stars, but the cloudy weather continually
disappointed me, and I began to fear that I should fail in
this important object; particularly as our provisions were

f

248 - Yournal of a Voyage through the

aia very low ebb, and we had, as yet, no reason to expect —
any assistance from the natives. Our stock was, at this_
time, reduced to twenty pounds weight of pemmican, fife
teen pounds of rice, snd six pounds of flour, among ten
half-starved men, in a leaky vessel, and on a barbarous
coast. Our course from the river was abou West-South-
West, distance ten miles. eS
Seevielanp 21. Atforty minutes past fea this morning it
was low water, which made fifteen feet perpendicular
height below the high-water mark of lastnight. ‘Mir. Mac-
kay collected a quantity of small muscles, which we boiled.
Our people did not partake of this regale, as they-are _
wholly unacquainted with sea shell-fish. Our young chief
being missing, we imagined that he had taken his flight,
but, as we were preparing to depart, he fortunately made
his appearance from the woods, where he had been to
ake his rest after his feast of last night. Atsix we were
upon the water, when we cleared the small bay, which we
named Porcupine Cove, and steered West-South-West
for seven miles, we then opened a channel about two miles
and an half wide at South-South-West, and had a view of
ten or twelve milesinto it. As I could not ascertain the
distance from the open sea, and being uncertain whether
we were in a bay, or among inlets and channels of islands,
I confined my search to a proper place for taking an obser-
vation. We steered, eowine ms along the land on the left, —
West-North-West a mile and an hali; then North-West q
one-fourth of a mile, and North hee, miles to an island ;
the land continuing to run North-North-West, then along
the island, South-South-West half a mile, ‘Mest a mile
and an half, and from thence directly across to the land-on
the left (where Thad an — South-West three miles.*
From this position a channel, of which the island we left
appeared to make a cheek, bedt's North by East. Ht
Under the land we ae with three canoes, ovis fifeeerr: ed
men in them, and laden with their moveables, as if pros
ceeding to anew situation, or returning to a former one.
They manifested no kind of mistrust or fear of us, but
entered into conversation with our youngman, asIsup- —
posed, to obtain some information concerning us. It —
did not appear that they were the same people as those
we had lately seen, as they spoke the: language ses eur

a

* he Cine or Point Menzies of Vanccuver.

North-West Continent of America. 249

young chief, with a different accent. They then exa-
, mined every. thing we had in our canoe, with an air of
» indifference and disdain. One of them in particular made
me understand, with anair of insolence, that a large canoe
had lately been in this bay, with people in her like me, and
that one of them, whom he cailed Macubah, had fired on
him and his friends, and then Bensins had. struck him on
the back, with the flat part of his sword. He also mens
tioned another name, the articulation of which I could not
determine. Atthe same time he illustrated these cir-
cumstances by the assistance of my gun and sword; and
Ido not doubt but he well deserved the treatment which
he described. Healso produced several European arti-
cles, which could not have been long in his possession.
rom his conduct and appearance, I wished very much to
be rid of him, and flattered myself that he would prose-
cute his voyage, which appeared to be in an opposite di-
rection to our course. However, when I prepared to
part from them, they turned their canoes about, and’ per-
suaded my young shan to leave me, which I could not
prevent.
We coasted along the land* at about W chia qulles \hioet
for six miles, and met a canoe with two boys in it, who
-were dispatched to summon the people on that part of the
coast to jointhem. The troublesome fellow now forced
-himself into my canoe, and pointed out a narrow channel
-on the opposite shore, that led to his village, and request-
‘ed us to steer towards it, which I accordingly ordered.
His importunities now became very irksome, and he
-wanted to see every thing we had, particularly my instru-
‘ments concerning which he must.have received informa~
‘tion from my young man. Heasked for my hat, my hand-
kerchtef, and, in short, every thing he saw about me.
At the same time he frequently repeated the unpleasant
intelligence that he had been shot at by people of my co-
Jour. At some distance from the land a channel opened
~to us, at South-West by West, and pointing that way, he
‘made me understand that Macubah came there with his
- large canoe. When we were in mid-channel,.I perceived
some sheds, or the remains of old buildings, on the
. shore; and as, from that circumstance, I thought it pro-
«bable that some Europeans might have been there, I di-

* Named by Vancouver King’s Island.
2H

i

250 Journal of a Voyage through the

rected my steersman to make for that spot. The trae
verse is upwards of three miles North-West. |

We landed, and found the ruins of a village, in a situa-
tion calculated for defence. ‘The place itself was over-
grown with weeds, and in the centre of the houses there was
a temple, of the same form and construction as that which
I described at the large village. We were soon followed
by ten canoes, each of which contained from three to six
men. They informed us that we were expected at the
village, where we should see many of them. From their
general deportment I was very apprehensive that some
hostile design was meditated against us, and for:the first
time I acknowledged my apprehensions ‘to my people. I
accordingly desired them to be very much upon their
guard, and to be prepared if any violence was eltcned to
defend themselves to the last.

We had no sooner landed, than we took possession of a
rock, where there was not space for more than twice our
mumber, and which admitted of our defending ourselves
with advantage, in case we. should be attacked. The
people in the three first canoes, were the most troublesome,
but, after doing their utmost: to irritate us, they went
away. They were, however, no sooner gone, than an hat,
‘an handkerchief, and several other articles, were missing.
‘The rest of our visitors continued their pressing invitations
to accompany them to their village, but finding our resolu-
‘tion to decline them was not to be shaken, they, about sun-
set relieved us from all further importunities, by their
departure.

Another canoe, howeren , soon arrived, “with. seven,
stout well-looking men. They brought a box, which con-
tained a very fine sea-otter skin, and a goat skin, that was
beautifully avhite. For the former they demanded my
hanger, which, as may well be supposed, could not be spar-
ed in our present situation, and they actually. refused to
take a yard and an half of common broad cloth, with some
other articles, for the skin, which proves the nnreflecting
improvidence of our European traders. The goat-skin
was so bulky that I did not. offer to purchase it. These
men also told me that Macubah had been there, and left his
ship behind a point of land in the channel, South-West
{rom us; from whence he had come to their village in

boats, which these people represented by imitating our "
manner of rowing. When I offered them what they did

=

=

~

North-West Continent of America. 251

not choose to accept for the otter-skin, they shook their
heads, and very distinctly answered ‘No, no.” And to
mark their refusal of any thing we asked Sow them, they
emphatically employed the same British monosyllable. In
one of the canoes which had left us, there was a seal, that

‘I wished to purchase, but could not persuade the natives

to part ‘with it. They had also a fish, which I now saw
for the first times It was about eighteen inches in length,

of the shape and appearance of a trout, with strong, sharp

teeth. We saw great numbers of the animals which we

had taken for sea otters, but I was now disposed to think

that a great part of them, at least, must have been seals.
The natives having left us, we made a fire to warm our-

selves, and as for supper, there was but little of that, for

our whole daily allowance did not amount to what was ‘suf
ficient for a single meal. The weather was clear through-
out the day, which was succeeded by a fine moon-light
night. I directed the people to keep watch by two in turn,
and laid myself down in my cloak.

Monday 22. This morning the weather was clear and
pleasant ; nor had any thing occurred to disturb us through-
out the night. One solitary Indian, indeed, came to us
with about half a pound of boiled uéal’s flesh, ae the head
of a small salmon, for which he asked an handkerchief,
but afterwards accepted afew beads. As this man came
alone, I concluded that no general plan had been formed
among the natives to annoy us, but this opinion did not
altogether calm the apprehensions of my people.

Soon after eight in the morning, I took five altitudes
for time, and the mean of them was 36° 48! at six in the af-
ternoon, 58. 34. time, by the watch, which makes the
acrometer slow apparent time 1° 21™ 44°.

Two canoes now arrived from the same quarter as the
rest, with several men, and our young Indian along with
them. They brought a very few small sea-otter skins,
out of season, with some pieces of raw seal’s flesh. The
former were of no value, but hunger compelled. some of
my people to take the latter, at an extravagant price.. Mr.
Mackay lighted a bit of touch wood with a burning-glass,
in the cover of his tobacco-box, which so surprised the
natives, that they exchanged the best of their otter skins

for it. The young man was now very anxious to persuade

our people to depart, as the natives he said, were as nu-
merous as musquitoes, and of very malignant character.

252 Journal of a Voyage throug Gh the

This information produced some very earnest remon+
strances to me to hasten our departure, but as I was de-

termined not to leave this place, except I was absolutely
compelled to it, till I had ascertained its a these
solicitations were not repeated.

While I was taking a meridian, two canoes, ofa laiyer
size, and well manned, appeared fromthe main South-

West channel. They seemed to be the fore-runners of

others, who were coming to co-operate with the people of
the village, in consequence ofthe message sent by the two.
boys, which has been already mentioned; and our young

Indian, who understood them, renewed ni6 entreaties for |

our departure, as they would soon come to shoot with
their arrows, and hurl their spears at us. In relating our
danger, his agitation was so violent, that he foamed at the
mouth. Though I was not altogether free from appre-
hensionson the occasion, it was necessary for me to dis-
guise them, as my people were panic struck, and some of
them asked if it was my determination to remain there to
be sacrificed? My reply was the same as their former im-
portunities had received, that I would not stir till I had
accomplished my object; at the same time, to humour
their fears, I consented that they should put every thing
into the canoe, that we might be in a state of preparation
to depart. The two cances now approached the shore,
and ina short time five men, with their families, landed
very quietly from them. Mv instruments being exposed,
they examined them with much apparent admiration and
astonishment. My altitude, by an artificial horizon, gave
§2°.21! 33”; that by the natural horizon was 52° 20! 4.8"
North latitude.*
These Indians were of a different tribe from those are
I had already seen, as our guide did not understand their
language. I now mixed up some vermilion in melted
grease, and inscribed, in large characters, on the South-
East face of the rock on which we had slept last night, this
brief memorial—“‘ Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada,

“‘ by land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand ie!

Me hundred. and ninety-three.”’

As I thought, that we were too near the village, I con-
sented to leave this place, and accordingly proceeded
North-East three miles, when we landed on a point, ina

* This 1 found to be the cheek of Vancouver's Naa Canal.

ba

A

‘i North-West Continent of America. B53

small cove, where we should not be readily seen, and could
not be attacked except in our front.

_ Among other articles that had been stclen from us, at
our last station, was a sounding-line, which I intended to
have employed in this bay, though I should not probably
have found the bottom, at any distance from the shore, as
the appearance both of the water and land indicated a great
depth. The latter displayed a solid rock, rising, as itap-
peared to me, from three to seven hundred feet above
high-water mark. Where any soil was scattered about,
there were cedars, spruce-firs, white birch, and other trees
of large growth. From its precipices issued streams of
fine water, as cold as ice. |
_ The two canoes which we had left at our last station fol-
lowed us hither, and when they were preparing to depart,
our young chief embarked with them. | I was determined,
however, to prevent his escape, and compelled him, by ac-
tual force, to come on shore, for I thought it much better
to incur his displeasure, than to suffer him to expose him-
self to any untoward accident among strangers, or toreturn
to his father before us. ‘The men in the canoe made signs
for him to go over the hill; and that they would take him
on board at the other side of it. As I was necessarily en-
gaged in other matters, I desired my people to take care
that he should not run away ; but they peremptorily refused
to. be employed in keeping him against his will. I was,
therefore, reduced to the necessity of watching him myself,
_ I took five altitudes, and the mean of them was 29. 23.
48. at 3. 5. 53. in the afternoon, by the watch, which makes
it slow apparent time 1228. Bee.

In the forenoon it was 12.24 , 44, 2 4A, 22

Mean ofboth...1 22 11
8

imvence nine hours going of the time-piece slow

#5

ie iy 1 22 19

n | observed an emersion of Jupiter’s third satellite, which
gave 8° 32’ 21” difference of longitude. I then observed
an emersion of Jupiter’s first satellite, which gave 8. 31.
48. The mean of these observations is 8° 32’ 2 2" which is
equal to 128. 2. West of Greenwich.

‘Thad now determined my situation, which is thie most
fortunate circumstance of my long, painful, and perilous

954, Fournal of a Voyage through the

journey, asa few cloudy days would have prevented. me
from ascertaining the final longitude of it.* |
At twelve it was high water, but the tide did not come
within afoot and an half of the high-water mark of last
night. As soon as Thad completed my observations, we
left this place: 1t was then ten o’clock in the evening.
We returned the same way that we came, and though
the tide was running out very strong, by keeping close in
with the rocks, we proceeded at a considerable rate, as my
people were very anxious to get out of the reach of the i in-
inhabitants of this coast. a
Zuesday 23. During our course we saw several free
on the land to the southward, and after the day dawned,
their sinokes were visible.» Athalf past four this morning
we arrived at our encampment of the night of the 21st,
which had been named Porcupine Cove. The bide aie
‘out, and considerably lower than we found it when we
were here before; the high-water mark being above the
place where we had made our fire. ‘This fluctuation must
be occasioned by the action of the wind upon the Wares in
those narrow channels. :
As we continued onwards, shinies the river, we sawa
canoe, well manned, which at first made from us with
great expedition, but afterwards waited, as if to recon-

noitre us; however, it kept out of our way, and allowed — .

usto pass. The tide being much lower than when we
were here before, we were ‘under the necessity of landing
a mile below the village. We observed that stakes were
fixed in the ground along the bay, and in some places ma-
chines were 7 astened to them, as I afterwards learned, to
intercept the seals and otters. ‘hese works are very ex-
tensive, and rhust have been erected with no common la-

* Mr. Meares was undoubtedly wrong in the idea, so earnestly insist-
ed on by him, in his voyage, that there was a North-West practicable
passage to the Southward of sixty-nine degrees and an half of latitude,
as [flatter myself has been proved by my former voyage. Nor can I
refrain from expressing my surprise at his assertion, that there was an

inland sea, or archipelago, of great extent, between the islands of Noot-
ka and the main, about the latitude where I was at this time. Indeed, a

I have been informed that Captain Grey, who commanded an American
vessel, and on whose authority he ventured this opinion, denies that he
had given Mr. Meares any such information. Besides, the contrary. is,
induitably proved by Captain Vancouver’s survey, from which no 2p-
peal can be made.

Yh eB et

“Ee

North-West Continent of America. 255

pour. The only bird we saw to-day was the white-headed

eagle.*

Our guide directed us to draw the canoe out of the reach
of the tide, and toleave it. He would not wait, however,
till this operation was. performed, and I did not wish to
let him go alone. I therefore followed him through a bad
road encumbered with underwood. When we had quit-
ted the wood, and were in sight of the houses, the young
man being about fiiteen or twenty paces before me, I was
surprised to see two men running down towards me from
one of the: houses, with daggers in their hands, and fury
in their aspect. From their hostile appearance, I could

- not doubt of their purpose. I therefore stopped short,

threw down my cloak, and put myself in a posture of de-
fence, with my gun presented towards them. Fortunately
for me, they knew the effect of fire-arms, and instantly

dropped their daggers, which were fastened bya string to

their wrists, and had before been held in a menacing atti-
tude. I let my gun also fall into my left hand, and drew
my hanger. Several others soon joined hen who were
armed in the same manner ; and among them I recognized
the man whom I have already mentioned as being so trou-
blesome to us, and who now repeated the names of Macu-
bah and Benzins, signifying, at the same time, by his ac-
tion, as ona former occasion, that he had been shot at by

them. Until I saw him my mind was undisturbed; but

the moment he appeared, conceiving that he was the cause
of my present perilous situation, my resentment predomi-
nated, and, if he had come within my reach, I verily be-

lieve, ‘that I should have terminated his athe Sa for ever.

_ The rest. now approached so near, that one of them
contrived to get behind me, and grasped me in his arms,
I soon disengaged myself from him; and, that he did not
avail himself of the opportunity which he had of plunging
his dagger into me, I cannot conjecture. ‘They certainly
might have overpowered me, and though I should proba-

bly have killed one or two of them, I must have fallen at

last.

One of my people now came out of the wood. On his
appearance they instantly took to flight, and with the ut-
most speed sought shelter in the houses from which they
had issued. It was, however, upwards, of ten minutes
before all my people joined me; and asthey came one after

_* This bay was now named Mackenzie’s Outlet.

256 Fournal of a Ve oyage through the

,

the other, these people might have successively dispatched .

every one of us. If they had killed me, im the first ins
stance, this consequence would certainly have followed,
and not one of us would have returned home to tell the
horrid-fate of his companions. —

After having stated the danger I had enceuahed : I
told my people that I was determined to make these na-
tives feel the impropriety of their conduct towards us,
and compel them to return my hat and cloak which they
had taken in the scuffle, as well as the articles previously
purloined from us ; for most of the men who were in the
three canoes that we first saw, were now inthe village. I

therefore told my men to prime their pieces afreshy and
prepare themselves for active use of them, if the kasonment

should require it.

We now drew up before the house, and made signs for
some one to comedowntous. At length our young chief
appeared, and told us that the men belonging to the ca-
noes had not only informed his friends, that we had treat-
ed him very ill, but that.we had killed four of their compa-
hions whom he had metin the bay. When I had explain-
ed to them as well as it was in my power, the falsehood of
sucha story, I insisted on the restoration of every thing
that had been taken from us, as well as a necessary supply
of fish, as the conditions of my departure ; accordingly
the things were restored, and afew dried fish along with
them. A reconciliation now took place, but our guide or
young chief was so much terrified that he would remain
no longer with us, and requested us to follow with his
father’s canoe, or mischief would follow. I determined;
however, before my departure, to take an observation,
and at noon got a meridian altitude, making this place;
which I named Rascal’s _— 52. 23. 43, N orth
latitude...

On my informing the natives that we wanted sctnehedg
more to eat, they brought us two salmons; and when we
signified that we had no poles to set the canoe against the
current, they were furnishing with equal alacrity, so anx-

ious were they for our departure. I paid, however, for
every thing which we had received, and: i not t forget res |

loan of the canoe

; ; perf i

oh , oy Ne : 74 bs wat ® my J
PMI LL LL Aa

oy ee

Bes é

North-West Continent of America. 257

CHAPTER XII.

Return up the river. Slow progress of the canoe, from the
strength of thecurrent. The hostile party of the natives
"precede us. Impetuous conduct of my people. Continue
our very tedious voyage. Come to some houses; received
«with great kindness. Arrive at the principal, or Salmon
Village. Our present reception very different from that
we experienced on our former visit. Continue our jour-
ney. Circumstances ofit. £indour dog. Arrive atthe
Upper, or Iriendly Village. Meet with avery kind re-
ception. Some further account of the manners and cus«
toms of its sng Brief vocabulary of their lan-

Sosa Si

| Moria a Dees eet of the river was so strong, that I
should have complied with the wishes of my people, and
gone by land, but one of my Indians was so weak, that it
was impossible for him to perform the journey. He had
been ill some time ; and, indeed, we have been all of us
more or less afflicted with colds on the sea coast. Four
_ of the people therefore set off with the canoe, and it em-
_ ployed them an hour to get halfa mile. In the mean time
the native, who has been already mentioned as having
treated us with so much insolence, and four of his come
_panions, went up the river in a canoe, which they had
above the rapid, with as many boxes as men in her.
This circumstance was the cause of fresh alarm, as it
was generally concluded that they would produce the same
mischief and danger in the villages above, as they had
in that below. Nor was it forgotten that the young chief
had left usin a manner which would not be interpreted i in

our favour by his father and friends.
_At length the canoe arrived; and the people. declared in
the most unreserved terms, dhae they would proceed no
‘. further in her; but when they were made acquainted with
_the circumstances which have just been described, their
violence increased, and the greater part of the men an-
nounced their donemienatios to attempt the mountains,
and endeavour, by passing over them, to gain the road by
which we came to the first village. So resolved were they

21

258 ¥ournal ofa Voyage through the

to pursue this plan, that they threw every thing which 4
they had into the river, except their blankets. I was all
this time sitting patiently on a stone, and indulging the -
hope that, when their frantic terror had subsided, their
returning reason would have disposed them to perceive \
the rashness of their project; but when I observed that
they persisted in it, Ino longer remained a silent listener
to their passionate ‘declarations, but proceeded to employ
such-arguments as I trusted would turn them from their
senseless and impracticable purpose. - After repraving
my young Indian in very severe terms, for encouraging
the rest to follow their mad design of passing the moun-
tains, I addressed myself generally to them, stating the
dificulty of ascending the mountains, the eternal snows
with which they were covered, our small stock of provi-
sions, which two days would exhaust, and the consequent
probability that we should perish with cold’and hunger.
I urged the folly of being affected by the alarm of danger
which might not exist, and if it did, I encouraged them
with the means we possessed of surmounting it. Nor did
I forget to urge the inhumanity and mjustice of leaving
the poor sick Indian to languish and die. I also added,
that as my particular object had been accomplished, I had —
now no other but our common safety; that the sole wish of
my heart was to employ the best means in my power, and
to pursue the best method which my understanding could
suggest, tosecure them and’ ae riot from sto ras
that might impede our return.

My steersman, who had been with me for five years in
that capacity, mstantly replied that he was ready to follow
me wherever I should go, but that he would never again
enter that canoe, as he had solemnly sworn he would not, |
while he was in the rapid. His example was followed ei
all the rest, except two, who embarked with Mr. Mackay,*
myself, and the sick Indian The current, however, was
so strong, that we dragged up the greatest part of the way,
by the branches of trees. Our progress, as may be ima-
gined, was very tedious, and attended with uncommon
~Jabour; the party who went by land being continually i
obliged to wait for us.. Mr. Mackay’sgun wascarriedout
of the canoe and lost, at a time when we appeared to stand
in very great need of it, as two canoes, with sixteen oy

* It is but common justice to him, to mention in this place that , had
every reason to be satisfied with his conduct.

~

\

North-West Continent of America. 259

eighteen men, were coming down the stream; and the
apprehensions which they occasioned did not. subside till
ioe shot by us with great rapidity.

At length we came in sight of the house, when -we saw

our young Indian with six others, in a canoe coming to

meet us. This was a very encouraging circumstance, as
it satisfied us that the natives who had preceded, and whose
malignant designs we had every reason to suspect, had not
been able to prejudice the people against us. “We, there=
fore, landed at the house, where we were received. in/a
friendly manner, and having procured some fish, we pro-
ceeded on our journey.

It was almost dark when we arrived at ie next idee
“aiadh the first persons who presented themselves to our ob-
servation, were the turbulent Indian and his four compan-
ions. ‘They were not very agreeable objects; but we
were nevertheless well received by the inhabitants, who
presented us with fish and berries. The Indians who had
caused us so much alarm, we now discovered’to be inha-
bitants of the islands, and traders in various articles, such
as cedar-bark, prepared to be wove into mats, fish-spawn,
copper, iron, and beads,- the latter of which they get on
their own coast. For these they receive in exchange
roasted salmon, hemlock-bark cakes, and the other kind
made of salmon roes, sorrel, and bitter berries. Having
procured as much fish as would serve us for our supper,
and the meals of the next day, all my people went to rest
except one, with whom I kept the first watch.

Wednesday 24. After twelve last night, I called up Mr.
| Midekay; and one of the men, to relieve us, but as a ge-
neral tranquillity appeared to prevail in the place, I recom-
mended them to return to their rest. I was the first awake
im the morning, and sent Mr. Mackay to see if our canoe
remained where we leftit; but he returned to inform me
that the Islanders had loaded it with their articles of traffic,
and were ready to depart. On this intelligence I hurried
to the water side, and seizing the canoe by the stem, I
should certainly ise overset it, and turned the three men
that were in it, with all their merchandize, into the river,
had not one of the people of the house, who had been very

‘kind to us, informed me that this was their own. canoe,

and that my guide had gone off with ours. At the same
moment the other two Indians who belonged to the party,

260 SFournal of a Voyage through the

jemped nimbly into it, and pushed. off with all the haste, _
and hurry that their fears may be supposed to dictate. ?
We now found ourselves once more without a guide or |
a canoe. We were, however, so fortunate as to engage,
without much difficulty, two of these people to accompany;
‘us; as, from the strength of the current, it would not have
been possible for us to have proceeded. by water without
their assistance. As the house was upon anisland, we |
ferried over the pedestrian party to the main bank of the
river, and continued our course till.our conductors came
to their fishing ground, when they proposed to land. us,
and our small portion of baggage; but as our companions
were on the opposite shore, we could not acquiesce, and —
after some timé persuaded them to proceed further with
us. Soonafter we met the chief, who had regaled us in
our voyage down the river. He was seining between two
canoes, and had taken a considerable quantity of alain
He ‘took us on board with him, and proceeded upwards
with great-expedition. These people are surprisingly
skilful and active in setting againsta strong current. In |
the roughest part they almost filled the canoe with: mantis )
by way of a sportive alarm tous. _ hice
We landed at the house of the chief, ea he seancliiis
ately placed a fish before me. Our people now appeared:
en the opposite bank, when a canoe was, sent for them,
As soon as they had made their meal of fish, they pro-
ceeded on their route, and we followed siasins the. shief
and one of the natives having undertaken to conduct us.
At five in the afternoon we came to two houses, aol
we had not seen in gomg down. ‘They were upon saad fea
island, and I was obliged to send for the walking party, as
our conductors, from the lateness of the hour, refused to,
proceed any further with us till the nextday. Oneoefour .
- men, being at a small distance before the others, had been.
attacked by a female bear, with two cubs, but another of
them arrived to his rescue, and shot her. Theirfears,
probably prevented them from killing the two youngones.
‘They brought a part of the meat, but it wasvery indifferent. —
We were informed that our former guide, or young chief,
had passed this place, at a very early hour of the. mennings. eae
on foot. . ck ee
These people take plenty of another fish, beside salmon, 08
which weigh from fifteen to forty pounds, This, fish ig;
broader than the salmon, of a greyish colour, and with an —

North-West Continent of America. 261 —

huneh on its back; the flesh is white, but neither rich nor
well favoured. Its jaw and teeth are like those of a dog,
and the latter are larger and stronger than any I have ever
seen in a fish of equal size ; those in front bend inwards,
like the claws of a bird of prey. It delights in shallow
water, and its native name is Dilly.

_ We received as many fish and berries from these wea
ple as completely satisfied our appetites. The latter ex-
celled any of the kind that we had seen. Isaw, also,
three kinds of gooseberries, which, as we passed through
the woods, we found in great abumdanae!

Thursday 25. L avose before the sun, and the weather
was very fine. The men who were to accompany us went
to visit their machines, and brought back plenty of fish,
which they strung ona rope, and left them in the river,
We now embarked thirteen in a canoe, and landed my men
onthe South bank, as it would have been impracticable to
have stemmed the tide with suchaload. ‘The under-wood .
was so thick that it was with great difficulty they could pass
through it. At nine we were under the necessity of wait-
ing to ferry them over ariver from the South, which is
not fordable. Afiersome time we came to two deserted
houses, at the foot of a rapid, beyond which our boatmen
absolutely refused to conduct us by water. Here was a
road which led opposite to the village. We had, however,
the curiosity to visit the houses, which were brected upon >
posts ; and we suffered very severely for the indulgence of
it; for the floors were covered with fleas, and we were
immediately i in the same condition, for which we had no
remedy but to take to the water. There was not a spot
round the houses, free from grass, that was not alive, as it
were, with this vermin.

Our guides proposed to conduct us on our way, and we
followed them ona well-beaten track. They, however,
went so fast, that we could not all of us keep up with them,
particularly our sick Indian, whose situation was very em-
barrassing to us, and at length they contrived to escape.
{ very much wished for these men to have accompanied us
to the village, in order to do away any ill impressions
which might have arisen from the young chief’s report to
his father, which we were naturally led to expect would
not be in our favour.

» This road conducted us through the finest wood of cedar
trees that Thad ever seen. I measured several of them

Y

.
262 Yournal of a Voyage through the

that were twenty-four feet in the girth, and of a propor-
tionate height. The alder trees are also of an uncommon

size; several of them were seven feet and an half in cir-

cumference, and rose to forty feet without a branch; but

my men declared that they had, in their progress, seen
much larger of both kinds. The other wood was hems

lock, white birch, two species of spruce-firs, willows, &e.
Many of the fare cedars appeared to have been examined,

as I suppose, by the natives, for the purpose of making
canoes, but finding them hollow at heart, they were suf=
feredto stand. There was but little underwood, andthe
soil was a black, rich mould, which would-well reward’ the

trouble of cultivation. re the remains of bones on cer+

iain spots, it is probable that the natives may have burned

their dead in this wood. Pe OT Oe

As it was uncertain what our recepeion! might be wit ate
village, I examined every man’s arms and ammunition, and
gave Mr. Mackay, who had unfortunately lost his‘gun, one
of my pistols. Our late conductors had informed us that
the man whom we left in a dying state, and to whom I had

administered some Turlington’ s balsam, was dead; andit

was by no means improbable that I might be suspected -

hastening his end.

At one in the afternoon we came to the bank of the river, i.

which was opposite to the village, which appeared to be in
a state of perfect tranquillity. Several of the natives were
fis shing above and below the weir, and they very readily
took us overin their canoes. The people now hurried
down to the water-side, but I perceived none of the chief’s

family among them. re hey made signs to me to'go to his —

house; I signified to them not to erowil about us, and in-
deed drew a line, beyond which I made them understand
they must not pass. I now directed Mr. Mackay, and
the men to remain there, with their arms in readiness, and

to keep the natives ata distance, as I was determined to

go alone to the chief’s house; and if they should hear the
report of my pistols, they were ordered to make the best

of their way from these people, as it would then be equally i
fruitless and dangerous to attempt the giving me any as- —
sistance, as it would be only in the last extremity, and —

when I was certain of their intention to destroy me, that I

should dischar ge my pistols. My gun I gave to Mr. Mac- |
kay, when, with. my loaded pistols in my belt, and a

poniard in my hand, I proceeded to the abode of the chief.

North-W ést Continent of America. 263

Thad a wood to passin my way thither, which was inter-
sected by. various paths, and i took one that led to the
back instead of the front of the house ; ; and as the whole
leat been very much altered since I was here before, I con-
cluded that I had lost my way. But I continued to pro-
ceed, and soon met with the chief’s wife, who informed
me, that. he was at the next house. On my going round
it, I. perceived that they had thrown open the gable ends,
and added two wings, nearly as long as the body, both of
which were hung round with salmon as close as they could
be placed. As I could discover none of the men, I sat
down upon a large stone near some women, who were sup=
ping on salmon roes and berries. ‘They imvited me to
partake of their fare, and I was about to accept of their in-
vitation, when Mr. Mackay joined me, as both himself.
_and all my party were alarmed at my being alone. Nor
was his alarm lessened by an old man whom he met in the
wood, and who made use of signs to persuade him to re-
turn. As he came without his gun, I gave him one of my
pistols. When I saw the women continue their employ-
ment without paying the least attention to'us, I could not
imagine that any hostile design was preparing against us.
Though the non-appearance of the men awakened some de-
gree of suspicion that I should not be received with the
same welcome as on my former visit. _ At length the chief
appeared, and his son, who had been our guide, following
him: | displeasure was painted i in the old man’s countenance,
and he held in his hand a bead tobacco pouch which be-
longed to Mr. Mackay, and the young chief had purloined
from him. When he had approached within three or four
yards of me, he threw it at me with great indignation, and
walked away. I followed him, however, until he had pas-
sed his son, whom I took by the hand, but he did not make
any very cordial return to my salutation: at the same time
he made signs for me to discharge my pistol, and give him
my hanger, which Mr. Mackay had brought me, but I did
not pay the least attention to either ofhis demands.
_ We now joined the chief, who explained to me that he
was ina state of deep distress for the loss of his emi and
made me understand that he had cut off his hair and black-
ened his face on the melancholy occason. He also repre-
sented the alarm which he had suffered respecting his son
who had accompanied us; as he apprehended we had kil-
led him, or had all of us perished together. When he

264 - Fournal of a Voyage through the

had finished his narrative, I took him/and his son by their
hands, and requested them to come with me to the place
where I had left my people, who were rejoiced to see us
return, having been in a state of great anxiety from our —
long absence. I immediately remunerated the yonng chief —
for his company and assistance in our voyage to the sea,
as wellas his father, for his former attentions. I gave
them cloth and knives, and, indeed, a portion of every
thing which now remained to us, The presents had the
desired effect of restoring us to their favour; but these
pe sople are of so changeable a nature, that gabsre 3 is NO secu-
rity ‘with them. I procured three robés and two otter.
skins, and if I could have given such articles in exchange
as they preferred, I should probably have obtained more.
‘I now represented the length of the way which I had to
go, and requested some fish to support us on our jours
ney, when he desired us to follow him to the house, where
mats were immediately arranged and a fish placed before —
each of us.

We were now informed, that our dog, whom we iad
lost, had been howling about the village ever since we left
it, and that they had reason to believe he left the woods at
night to eat the fish he could find aboutthe houses. I im-
mediately dispatched Mr. Mackay, anda man, in search
of the animal, but they returned without him.

When It manifested my intention to proceed on my
journey, the chief voluntarily sent for ten roasted salmon,
and having attended us with his son, and a great number
of his people, to the last house in the village, we took our
leave. It was then half past three inthe afternoon. © |

I directed Mr. Mackay to take the lead, and the others
to follow him in Indian files, at a long and steady pace, as
I determined to bring up the rear. 1 adopted this mea-
sure from a confusion that was observable among the nas —
tives which [did not comprehend. I was not without my
suspicions that some mischief was in agitation, and they |
were increased from the confused noise we heard in thé ~
village. At the same time a considerable number came 3
running after us; some of them making signs for us to ©
stop, and others rushing by me. I perceived also, that i
those who followed us were the strangers who live among | |
these people, and are kept by them in a state of awe and ~
subjection ; and one.of them made signs to me that we —
were taking.a wrong road. I immediately called out to —

, North-West Continent of America. 265

Mr. Mackay to stop. This was naturally enough taken
for an alarm, and threw my people into great disorder.
~ When, however, I was understood, and we had mustered
_ again, our Indian informed us, that te noise we heard was
occasioned by a debate among the natives, whether they
~ should stop us or not. When, therefore, we had got into
_ the right road, I made such arrangements as might be ne-
_cessary for our defence, if we should have an experimen-
‘tal proof that our late and fickle friends were converted
into enemies.

Our way was through a forest of stately cedars, beneath
a range of lofty hills, covered with rocks, and without
any view" of the river. The path was well beaten, but

rendered incommodious by the large stones which lay

along it.
As we were continuing our route, we all felt the sensa-
tion of having found a lost friend at the sight of our dog ;
but he appeared, in a great degree, to have lost his former
sagacity. He ran in a wild way backwards and forwards;
_ and though he kept our road, I could not induce him to
“ acknowledge his master. Sometimes he seemed disposed
to approach as if he knew us: and then, on a sudden, he
would turn away, as if alarmed at our appearance. The
poor animal was reduced almost to a skeleton, and we
occasionally dropped something to support him, and by’ '
degrees he recovered his former sagacity.

When the night came on we stopped at a small distance
from the 3 iver, but did not venture to make afire. Every
man ‘took is tree, and laid down in his clothes, and with
his arms, beneath the shade of its branches. We had

* removed to a short distance from the path; no centinel

was now appointed, and every one was eo to watch for
his own safety.

Friday 26. After a very restless, Get undisturbed.
hight. we set forward as soon as day appeared, and walked

a Sth all possible expedition, till we got to the upper,

_ which we now called Friendly Village, and was the first
_ we visited on our outward journey.
_ It was eight in the morning of a very fine day when we
arrived, and found a very material alteration in the place
since we left it. Five additional houses had been erected
and were filled with salmon: the increase of inhabitants
was in the same proportion. We were received with great
"kindness, and a messenger was dispatched to inform the
2K

266 | Fournal of a Voyage through the

chief, whose name was Soocomlick, and who was then at
his fishing-weir, of our arrival. He immediately returned
to the village to confirm the cordial reception of his peo-
ple; and having conducted us to his house, entertained us
with the most respectful hospitality. In short, he behaved
to us with so much attention and kindness, that I did not
withhold any thing in +1; power to give, which might af.
ford him satisfaction. I presented him with two yards of
blue cloth, an axe, knives, and various other articles. He
gave me in return a large shell which resembled the under
shell of a Guernsev oyster, but somewhat larger. - Where |
they procure them I could not discover, but they cut and
polish them for bracelets, ear-rings, and other personal or-
naments. He regretted that he had no sea-otter skins to
give me, but engaged to provide abundance of them when-
ever either my friends or myself should return by sea ; an
expectation which I thought it right to encourage among
these people. He also earnestly requested me to bring
him agun and ammunition. I might have procured many
curious articles at this place, but was prevented by the con-
sideration that we must have carried them on our backs
upwards of three hundred miles through a mountainous
country. The young chief, to his other acts of kindness,
added as large a supply of fish as we chose to take. ius
Our visit did not occasion any particular interruption of
the ordinary occupation of the people; especially of the
women, who were employed in boiling sorrel, and dif-
ferent kinds of berries, with salmon-roes, in large square
kettles of cedar wood. ‘This pottage, when it attained a
certain consistency, they took out with lacles, and poured
it into frames of about twelve inches square and one deep,
the bottom being covered with a large leaf, which were
then exposed to the sun till their contents became so many
dried cakes. The roes that are mixed up with the bitter
berries, are prepared in the same way. From the quantity |
of this kind of provision, it must be a principal article of
food, and probably of traffic. These people have also port-
able pete of cedar, in which they pack them, as well as
their salmon, both dried and roasted. _ It appeared to me,
that they eat no flesh, except such as the sea may afford —
them, as that of the sea-otter and the seal. The only i ine
stance we observed to the contrary, was in the young In-
dian who accompanied us among the islands, and has
been already mentioned as feasting. on the flesh of a por-

North-West Continent of America. 267

eupine; whether this be their custom throughout the
year, or only during the season of the salmon fishery ; or,
whether there were any casts of them, as in India, I can-
not pretend to determine. It is certain, however, that:
they are not hunters, and [ have already mentioned the

_ abhorrence they expressed at some venison which we

brought to their village. During our former visit to these
people, they requested us not to discharge our fire-arms,
lest the report should frighten awav the pent but now
they expressed a wish that I should explain the’ use and
management of them. Though their demeanour to us"
was of the most friendly nature, and they appeared with-

out any arms, except a few who accidentally had their dag-

gers, I didnot think it altogether prudent to discharge our
pieces; I therefore fired one of my pistols at a tree mark-
ed for the purpose, when I put four out of five buck shot,
with which it was loaded, into the circle, to their extreme
astonishment and adlmaivation. :
These people were in general of the middle stature,
well-set, and better clothed with flesh than any of the na.
tives of the interior country. Their faces are round, with
high cheek bones, and their complexion between the olive
andthe copper. ‘They have small grey eyes with a tinge
of red; they have wedge heads, and their hair is of a dark
brown colour, inclining to black. Some wear it long, keep
it well combed, and let it hang loose over their shoulders,
while they divide and tic it in knots over the temples. Others
arrange its plaits, and bedawb it with brown earth, so as
to render it impervious to the comb ; they, therefore, carry

a bodkin about them to ease the frequent ; irritation, which

may be supposed to proceed from sucha state of the head.

‘The women are inclined to be fat, wear their hair short,

and appear to be very subject to swelled: legs; a malady
that, probably, proceeds from the posture in which they
are always sitting: as they are chiefly employed in the
domestic engagements of spinning, weaving, preparing the
fish, and nursing their children, which did not appear to

‘be numerous. ‘Their cradle differed from any that I had

seen ; it consisted of a frame fixed round a board of suf-
ficient length, in which the child, after ithas been swathed,
is placed on a bed of moss, and a conductor contrived to
carry off the urinary discharge. They are slung over one
shoulder by means of a cord fastened under the other, so
that the infant is always in a position to be readily applied

268 ¥ournal of a Voyage through the

to the breast, when it requires nourishment. I saw.
several whose heads were inclosed in boards covered with

leather, till they attain the form of a wedge. The women
wear no clothing but the robe, either loose or tied round
the middle with a girdle, as the occasion may require, with
the addition of a fringed apron, already mentioned, and a
cape, in the form of an inverted bowl or dish. To the
robe and cap, the men add, when it: rains, a circular mat
with an epening in the middle sufficient to admit the head,
which, extending over the shoulders, throws off the wet.
They oven occasionally wear shoes of duasded moose-skin,
for which they are indebted totheir neighbours. Those
parts, which, among all civilized nations, are covered from
familiar view, are here openly exposed.: |

They are altogether dependent on the sea and rivers far
their paren so that they may be considered as a sta-:

tionary people; hence it is that the men engage in those’

toilsome employments, which the tribes who support them-
selves by the chase, leave entirely to the women. Poly-
gamy is permitted among them, though, according to my
observation, most of the men were satisfied with one wife,
with whom, however, chastity is not considered as a ne-
cessary virtue. I saw but one woman whose under-lip
was split and disfigured with an appendant ornament.
‘The men frequently bathe, and the boys are continually in
the water. They have nets and lines of various kinds and
sizes, which are made of cedar bark, and would not be
ro from those made of hemp. ‘Their hooks consist of |

wo pieces of wood or bone, palin wi hi when fixed oe
tek an obtuse angle.

Their spears, or darts, are from four to sixteen feet in
length; the barb, or point, being fixed in a socket, when

the animal 1s cae slips from oe thus the hark being.

fastened by a string to the handle, remains as a buoy ; or

enables the aquatic hunter to tire and take his prey. They

are employed against sea-otters, seals, and large fish.
Their hatchets. are made principally of about fourteen
inches of bar-iron, fixed into a wooden handle, as I have

already described them; though they have some of bone
or horn: with these, a mallet and wooden wedge, they
hew their timbers and form their planks. ‘They must also—
have other tools with which they complete and polish their.

work, but my stay was so short, my anxiety so great, ons
.

North-West Continent of America. 269

my/situation so critical, that many circumstances may be
supposed to have escaped me.

Their canoes are made out of the cedar tree, and. will
carry from eight to fifty persons.

Their warlike weapons, which, as far as I could dade
they very seldom have occasion to employ, are bows and
arrows, spears, and daggers. ‘Lhe arrows are suchas.
have been already descrived, but rather of a slighter make.
The bows are not more than two feet and an half in length ;
they are formed of a slip of red cedar ; the grain being on
one side untouched with any tool, while the cther is se-
cured with sinews attached to it by a kind of glue.
Though this weapon has a. very slender appearance, it
throws an arrow with great force, and toa considerable
distance. ‘Their spears are about ten feet long, and point-
ed with iron. Their daggers are of various kinds, being
of British, Spanish, and American manufactures.

Their household furniture consists of boxes, troughs,
and dishes'formed of wood, with different vessels made
of watape. ‘These are employed, according to their se-
veral applications, to contain their valuables and provi-
sions, as well as for culinary purposes, and to carry water.
The women make use of muscle-shells to split and clean
their fish, and which are very well adapted to that purpose.

‘Their ornaments are necklaces, collars, bracelets for
the arms, wrists, and legs, with ear-rings, &c. ©

‘They burn their dead, and display their mourning, by
cutting their hair short, and blackening their taces.
Though I saw several places where bodies had been burn-
ed, I was surprised at not seeing any tomb or memorial of
the dead, particularly when their neighbours are so super-
stitiously attentive to the erection and preservation of
them. |

From the number of their canoes, as well. as the quan-
tity of their chests and boxes, to contain their moveables,
as well as the insufficiency of their houses, to guard against _
the rigours of a severe winter, and the appearance of the
ground around. their habitations, itis evident that these
people reside here only during the summer or salmon sea-
son, which does not probably last more than three months.
It may be reasonably inferred, therefore, that they have
villages on the sea-coast, which they inhabit during the
rest of the year. There it may be supposed they leave.
the sick, and infirm, and the aged; and thither they may

270 Fournal of a Voyage through thé

bear the ashes of those who die at the place of their sum=
mer residence.

Of their religion I can say but little, as my means bof
observation were very contracted. I could discover,
however, that they believed in a good and an evil spirit :
and that they have some forms of worship to conciliate the
protection of one, and perhaps to avert the enmity of the
other, is apparent from the temples which I have describ-
ed; and where, at stated periods, it may be presumed
they hold the feasts, and perform the sacrifices, which
their religion, whatever it may be, has instituted as the
ceremonials of their public worship.

From the very little I could discover of their govern-
ment, itis altogether different from any political regula.
tion which had been remarked by me among the savage
tribes. Itis on this river alone that one man appears to
have an exclusive and hereditary right to what was neces-
sary to the existence of those whoare associated with him.
I allude to the salmon weir, or fishing-place, the sole right
to which confers on the chief an arbitrary power. Those
embankments could not have been formed without a ver
great and associated labour; and, as might be scenes
on the condition that those who assisted i in constructing it
should enjoy a participating right in the advantages to be
derived from it. Nevertheless, it evidently appeared to
me, that the chief’s power over it, and the people, was un-
limited, and without controul. No one could fish without
his permission, or carry home a larger portion of what he
had caught, than was set apart for him. No one could
build an house without his consent; and all his commands
appeared to be followed with implicit obedience. ‘The
people at large seemed to be on a perfect equality, while
the strangers among them were obliged to obey the com-
mands of the natives in general, or quit the village. They

qe

appear to be of a friendly disposition, but they are subject a

to sudden gusts of passion, which are as quickly composed ;

and the transition is instantaneous, from violent irritation
to the most tranquil demeanour. Ofthe many tribes of sav-
age people whom I have seen, these appear to be the most
susceptible of civilization. They might soon be brought
to cultivate the little ground about them which is capable
of it. There is a narrow border of a rich, black soil, on
either side of the river, over a bed of sravel, which would

/
/

25 SS

North-West Continent of America. 271

yield any grain or fruit, that are common to similar lati-

tudes in Europe.
The very few words which I collected of their el a

are as follow :—

Zimilk,

Dilly, ©

Sepnas,
Kietis,
Clougus, —
Itzas,
Ma-acza,
Ich-yeh,
Shous-shey,
Watts, .
Zla-achle,
Zimnez,
Couloun,
Dichts,
Neach,
Ulkan,
Gits com,
Shiggimia,

Till-kewan,

Thlogatt,
Achimoul,
Il-caiette,
Couny, —
Nochasky, —
Caiffre, ©

Salmon.
A fish ofthesize of asalmon, withcanine teeth.
Hair of the head.

An axe.

Eyes.

‘Teeth.

Nose.

Leg.

Hand.

Dog.

House.

Bark mat robe.

Beaver or otter ditto.

Stone.

ire.4 *

Water.

A mat.

Thread.

‘Chest or box.

Cedar bark.

Beads got upon their coast.

A bonnet.

A clam-shell.

A dish composed of berries and salmon Toes,

What!

PLILLLL LIL ST

¢

72 -Fournal of a Voyage throuch the

CHAPTER XIUL

ae the Frzendly Vz illage. Attentions of pe natives at our
- departure. . Stop to ‘divide ‘our’ provisions. Begin to
ascend the mountains. Circumstances of the ascent. Four-
ney continued. Arrive at the place from whence, we set
out ws land. Meet with Indians there. Findgthe canoe,
and all the ather articles in a state of perfect security and
preservation. leans employed to compel the restoration
of articles which were ofterwards stolen. Proceed on our
homeward-bound voyage. Some account of the natives
on the river. The canoe is run ona rock, ec. Circum-
stances of the voyage. Enter the Peace River. State-
ment of courses. Continue aur route. - Circumstances of
zt. Proceed onwards.in.a small canoe, with an Indian,
to the lower fort, leaving the rest of the people to follow
me. AIOE e at Fort Chepewyan. vad: pd i concluded.

1738 Ay eleven in the morning we left this if Ste

I called Friendly Village, accompanied by every man be-
longing to it, who attended us about a mile, when we took
d cordial leave of them; and if we might judge. from, nee
pearances, they parted from us with regret.) iv

In ashort time we halted, to make a division of our fish,
‘and each man had about twenty pounds weight of it, ex-
cept Mr. Mackay and myself, who were content ‘with
shorter allowance, that we might have less weight to carry.
We had also a little flour, and some pemmican. Having -
completed this arrangement -with all possible expedition,
we proceeded onwards, the ground rising gradually, as we
continued our route. When we were clear of the wood,
we saw the mountain towering above, and apparently of
impracticable ascent. We soon came to the fork of the
river, which was at the foot of the precipice, where the
ford was three feet deep, and very rapid. Our young In-
dian, though much recovered, was ‘still too weak to cross
the water, and with some difficulty I carried him over on
my back.

It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to abou
the summit of the first mountain before night came on, in
order to look for water. I left the sick Indian, with his

North-West Continent of America. 273

companion and one of my men, to follow us, as his strength
would permit him. The fatione of ascending these pre-
cipices I shall not attempt to describe, and it was past five
when we arrived at a spot where we could get water, and
in such an extremity of weariness, that it was with great
- spain any of us could crawl about to gather wood for the
necessary purpose of makinga fire. Torelieve our anxiety,
which began to increase every moment, for the situation
-of the Indian, about seven he and his companions arrived;
when we consoled ourselves by sitting round a blazing
fire, talking of past dangers, and indulging the delightful
reflection that we were thus far advanced on our home-
ward journey. Nor was it possible to be in this situation
without contemplating the wonders of it. Such was the
depth of the precipices below, and the height of the moun-
tains above, with the rude and wild magnificence of the
‘scenery around, that I shall not attempt to describe such
an astonishing and awful combination of objects; of
which, indeed, no description can convey an adequate idea.
Even at this place, which is only, as it were, the first step
towards gaining the summit of the mountains, the climate
was very sensibly changed. The air that fanned the village
which we left at noon, was mild and cheering; the grass
was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe around it. But here
the snow was not yet dissolved, the ground was still bound
by the frost, the herbage had scarce begun to spring, and
» the crowberry bushes were just beginning to blossom.

- Saturday 27. So great was our fatigue of yesterday,
that it was late before we proceeded to return over the
mountains, by the same route which we had followed. in
‘our outward journey. There was little or no change in
the appearance of the mountains since we passed them,
though the weather was very fine.

_ Sunday 28. At niné this morning we arrived at the
‘spot, where we slept with the natives on the 16th instant,
‘and found our hme in good condition where we had
‘buried it.

The latitude of this place, by observation, vale I passed,
IT found to be 52. 46. 32. I now took time, and the dis-
tance between sun and moon. I had also an azimuth, to
ascertain the variation.

‘We continued our route vith fine weather, al without
‘meeting a single person on our way, the natives: being all
gone as we supposed, to the tens River.” Werecovered

2b

274 Sournal of a Voyage through the

all our hidden stores of provisions, and arrived about twe
in the afternoon of Sunday, August the ath, at the place
which we had left a month before. 3

A considerable number of Indians were hes oa
the opposite side of the small river, and in consequence of
the weather, confined to their lodges: as they must have
heard of, if not seen, us, and our arms being out of order
from the rain, I was not satisfied with our situation; but
did not wish to create an alarm. We, therefore kept i in
the edge of the wood, and called to them, wi they
turned out like so many furies, with their arms in their
hands, and threatening destruction if we dared to approach
their habitations. We remained mn our station til their
passion and apprehensions had subsided, when our inter-
preter gave them the necessary information respecting us.
They proved to be strangers to us, but were the relations
of those whom we had already seen here, and who, as they
told us, were upon an island at some distance up the river.
A messenger was accordingly sent to inform them of our
arrival.

Monday 5. On examining the canoe, and our property,
which we had left behind, we found it in perfect safety ;
nor was there the print of a foot near the spot. We now
pitched our tent, and made a blazing fire, and I treated
myself, as well as the people, with a dram;, but we had
been so long without tasting any spirituous liquor, that we
had lost all relish for it. The Indians now arrived from
above, and were rewarded for the care they had taken of
our property with such articles as were acceptable to them.

Atnine this morning I sent five men in the canoe, for
the various articles we had left below, and they soon re-
turned with them, and except some bale goods, which had
got wet, they were in good order, partioulanly the PEON
sions, of which we were now in great need..

Many of the natives arrived both from the upper and
lower parts of the river, each of whom was dressed in a
beaver robe. I purchased fifteen of them ; and they pre-
ferred large knives in exchange. .It is an extraordinary
circumstance that these people, who might have taken all
the property we left behind us, without the least fear of
detection, should leave that untouched, and purloin any
of our utensils, which our confidence in their honesty gave
them a ready opportunity of taking. In fact, sever al ar-
ticles were missing, and as I was very anxious to avoid a

|

ae

North-West Continent of Mitch ee. B75

quarrel with the natives, in this stage of our, journey, I
told those who remained near us, without any appearance
of anger, that their relations who were gone, had no idea
of the mischief that would result to them from taking our
property. I gravely added, that the salmon, which was

not only their favourite food, but absolutely necessary to

their existence, came from the sea which belonged to us
white men; and that as, at the entrance of the river, we
could prevent those fish from coming up it, we possessed
the power to starve them and their teas To avert
our anger, therefore, they must return all the articles that
had been stolen fromus. ‘This finesse succeeded. Mes-
sengers were dispatched to order the restoration of every
thing that had been taken. We purchased several large
salmon of them, and enjoyed the delicious meal which
they afforded.

At noon this day, which I allotted for repose, I gota
meridian altitude, which gave 53. 24. 10. I also took

time. The weather had been cloudy at intervals.

Tuesday 6. Every necessary preparation had been made
yesterday for us to continue our route to-day; but before
our departure, some of the natives arrived with part of the
stolen articles ; the rest, they said, had been taken by peo-
ple down the river, who would be baer in the course of the
morning, and recommended their children to our commis
seration, and themselves to our forgiveness.

The morning was cloudy, with small rain, nevertheless
I ordered the men to load the canoe, and we proceeded in
high spirits on finding ourselves once more so comfortably
together init. We landed at an house onthe first island,
where we procured a few salmon, and four fine beaver-
skins. There had been much more rain in these parts
than in the country above, as the water was pouring down
the hills in torrents. ‘The river consequently rose with
great rapidity, and very much impeded our progress.

The people on this river are generally of the middle size,
though I saw many tall men among them. In the clean-
liness of their persons they resemble rather the Beaver In-
dians than the Chepewyans. They are ignorant of the use
of fire arms, and their only weapons are bows and arrows,
and spears. ‘They catch the larger animals in snares, but
though their country abounds in “them, and the rivers and
Jakes produce plenty of fish, they find a difficulty in sup-
porting themselves, and are never to be seen but in small

276 Yournal of a Voyage through the

bands of two or three families. There is no regular goa
vernment among them; nor do they appear to have a suffis
cient communication or understanding with each other, to
defend themselves against an invading enemy, to whom
thev fall an easy prey. ‘They have allthe animals common
on the West side of the mountains, except the biffaloe
and the wolf; at least we saw none of the latter, and there
being none of the former, it is evident that their progress
is from the Sout East. ‘The same language is spoken, with
very little exception, from the extent of my travels down
this river, and ina directline from the North-East head of
it in the latitude 53° or 54° to Hudson’s Bay; so thata
Chepewyan, from which tribe they have all sprung, might
leave Churchill 7 and proceeding in every direction
to the North-West of this line, without knowing: any lan-
guage except his own, would understand them all: I ex
cept the natives of the sea coast, who are altogether a dif-
ferent people. As to the people to the Eastward of this ri-
ver, I am not qualified tospeak of them.

At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, so.that we'were
obliged to land in order to repair the mjury she had re-
ceived ; and as the rain came on with great violence, we
remained here for the night. ‘The salmon were now driv-
ing up the current im such large shoals, that the water

seemed, as it were, to be covered with the fins of them: . —

Wednesday 7. About nine this morning the weather

éleared, and we embarked. The shoals of salmon conti-

nued as yesterday. ‘There were frequent showers through+
out the dav, and every brook was deluged into a river.
The water had risen at least one foot and an half perpen-
dicular in the last twenty-four hours. — Insthe dusk of the
évening we landed for the night.

Thursday 8. The water continued rising during the

night; so that we were disturbed twice in the course of it,

to. remove our baggage. At six in the morning we were
on our way, and proceeded with continual and laborious
exertion, from the increased rapidity of the current. Af-
ter having passed the two carrying places of Rocky > ane i
and the Long Portage, we encamped for the night.
Friday 9. We set off at five, after a rainy night, and in

a foggy morning. The water still retained its height.

The sun, however, soon beamed upon us ; and our clothes
and baggage were in such a state that we’ landed to dry
them. After some time we re-embarked, and arrived’at

—

North-West Continent of America. 277

our first encampment on this river about seven in the even-
> The water fell considerably in the course ‘of the day.

Saturday 10. The weather was cloudy with slight,
aia and at five this morning we embarked, the water
falling as fastas it had risen. ‘his circum’stance arises
- from the mountainous state of the country on either side
of the. river, from whence the water rushes down almost
as fast as it falls from the heavens, with the addition of
the snow it melts im its way. At eight in the evening we
stopped for the night.

Sunday 11. At five this morning we proceeded with
clear weather. At ten we came to the foot of the long
rapid, which we ascended with poles much easier than we
expected. The rapids that were so strong, and violent
in our passage downwards, were now so reduced, that we
could hardly believe them to be the same.. At sun-set we
landed and encamped.

Monday 12. ‘The weather was the same as yesterday,
and we were on the water at a very early hour. At nine
we came to a part of the river where there was little or no
current. At noon we landed to gum the canoe, when [
took a meridian altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North
latitude. We continued our route nearly East, and at
three in the afternoon approached the fork, when I took
time, and the distance between the sun and moon. Aé
four in the afternoon we left the main branch. The cur-
rent was quite slack,as the water had fallen six feet, which
must have been in the course of three days. At sun-set
we landed and took our station for the night.’

Tuesday 13. There was a yery heavy rain in the night,
and the morning was cloudy; we renewed our voyage,
however, at a very early hour, and came to the narrow
gut between the mountains of rock, which was a passage
of some risk ; but fortunately the state of the water was
such, that we got up without any difficulty, and had more
time to examime these extraordinary rocks than in our
outward passage. ‘They are as perpendicular as a wall,
and give the idea of a succession of enormous revise
churches. We were now closely hemmed in by the moun-
tains, which have lost much of their snow since our former
passage by them. We encamped at a late hour, cold, wet,
and hungry: for such was the state of our provisions, that
our necessary allowance did not answer to the active crav-
ings of our appetites.

278 Yournal ofa Voyage ihrough the

Wednesday 14. "The weather was cold and raw, with
small rain, but our necessities would not suffer us to ‘wait
for a favourable change of it, and at half past five we ar-
rived at the swampy carry ing-place, between this branch
and the small river. At three in the afternoon the cold
was extreme, and the men could not keep themselves
warm even by their violent exertions which our situation
required; and I now gave them the remainder of our rum
to fortify and support them. ‘T’he canoe was so. 7 that
the lives of two of them were endangered in this horrible
carrying place. At the same time it must be observed,
that from the fatiguing circumstances of our journey, and
the inadequate state of our provisions, the natural strength
of the men had been greatly diminished. bape a
on the banks of the bad river.

Thursday 15.. The weather was now. ees and. the
‘sun shone upon us. The water was much lower: than in
the downward passage, but as cold as ice, and, unfortu-

nately, the men were obliged to be continually i in it to
drag on the canoe. There were many embarras,.through
which a passage might have been made, but we were
under the washes of carrying both the canoe nae a
gage.

About sun-set we arrived at our peneble ve ad the 13th

of June, where some of us had nearly taken our eternal

_voyage. The legs and feet of the men were so benumbed,
that I was very apprehensive of the consequences. “The
‘water being low, we made a search for our bag of ball, but
without success. ‘The river was full of miemand! and ano-
ther fish like the black bass.

I'riday 16. The weather continued to be ee same as
yesterday, and attwo inthe afternoon we came to the

‘carrying-place which leads to the first small lake; butit .

was so filled with driit-wood, that a considerable portion of
time was employed in making our way through it.. We
now reached the high land which separates the source of
the Tacoutche Tesse, or Columbia River, and Unjigah,
or Peace River: the latter of which, after reeeiving many

tributary streams, passes through | ‘the great Slave Lake,

and disembogués itself in the Frozen Ocean, in latitude
69: North, longitude 1335. West from Greenwich; while
the former , confined by the immense mountains that rum
nearly parallel with the Pacific Ocean, and keep it ina

s

:
v
cy
4

we

Hi

North-West Cousin of Americ 279

Southern course, empties itself i in 46. 30. North latitude,
and longitude 124. West from Greenwich.

-IfI could have spared the time, and had been able to
exert myself, for I was now afflicted with a swelling in my
ancles, so that I could not even walk, but with great pain
and difficulty, it was my intention to have taken some sal-
monalive, and colonised them in the Peace River, though
it is very doubtful whether that fish would live in waters
we not a communication with the sea.

“Some of the inhabitants had been here since we passed ;
aise I apprehend, that on seeing our road through ¢heir
country, they mistook us for enemies, and had therefore
déserted the place, which is a most convenient station; as
on one side, there is great plenty of white fish, and trout,
jub, carp, &c. and on the other, abundance of salinion, arick
probably other fish. Several things that I had left here in
exchange for articles of which I had possessed myself, as
objects of curiosity, were taken away. ‘he whirtle-ber-
ries were now ripe, and very fine of their kind. ©

Saturday 17. ‘The morning was cloudy, and at five we
renewed our progress. Wewere compelled to carry from
the lake to the Peace River, the passage, from the falling
of the water, being wholly obstructed by drift-wood. The
meadow through which we passed was entirely inundated ;
and from the state of my foot and ancle, I was obliged,
though with great reluctance, to submit to be carried
OWE Ita sn.

At half past seven we began to glide along with the
current of the Peace River; and almost at every canoe’s
length we perceived Beaver roads to and from the river.
At two in the afternoon, an object attracted our notice at
the entrance of a small river, which proved to be the four
beaver skins, already mentioned to have been presented to ©
me by a native, and left in his possession to receive them
on my return. I imagined, therefore, that being under
the necessity of leaving the river, or, perhaps, fearing to
meet us again, he had taken this method to restore them
to me; and to reward his honesty, I left three times the
value of the skins in their place. The snow appeared in
patches on the mountains. At four in the afternoon we
passed the place where we found the first natives, and
landed for the night at alate hour. In the course of the
day we caught nine outards, or Canada geese, but they
were as yet without their feathers.

280 Fournal of a Voyage through the

« Sunday 18. As soon as it was light we proceeded on
our voyage, and drove on before the current, which was
very much diminished. in its strength, since-we came up
it. ‘The water indeed was so low, that in many parts it
exposed a gravelly beach. At eleven we landed at our
encampment of the seventh of June, to gum the canoe and
dry our clothes ; we then re-embarked, and at half past five
arrived atthe place, where I lost my book of memorand-
ums, on the fourth of June, in which were‘certajn €¢
and distances between that day and the twenty, $1
‘May, which I had now an opportunity to supply. “They
were as follow:

North-North-West half amile, East by North half a
mile, North by East a quarter of a mile, North-West by
West a quarter of a mile, West-South-West half a mile,
‘North-West a mile and a quarter, North-North-West
three quarters of a mile, North by East half a mile, Nerth-
‘West three quarters of a mile, West half a mile, North-
West three quarters of a mile, West-North-West one
‘mile and a quarter, North three quarters of a mile, West
by North one quarter ofa mile, North-West one mileand
an half, West-North-West ‘half a mile, North-North-
‘West three quarters of a mile, West one quarter of a mile,
‘North-North-East half a alld: ee two
aniles, sa Nor am West aed miles. — ik

ie te we came ane uaa and it now eae net as it
‘were, with beavers and wild fowl. There was rain in the
afternoon, and about sun-set we took’ our r station for ae
night.

Monday 19. We had some y stn rain thbowinom the
night. Our course to-day was South-South-West three
quarters of a mile, West-North-West half a mile, North
half a mile, N Grée West by West three quarters of a‘mile,
_ North by West half amile;a small river to the left, South-
West by West three quarters of a mile,’ West-North-
- ‘West a mile and an half, North-West by’North four miles,
arivuleton the right, West-North- West three quarters of
‘a mile ; a considerable river from the left, North-North-
‘West two miles, North half a mile, West-North-West
one mile and an half; a rivulet on the’right, North-West
by West one mile and: a quarter, West-North-West ‘one
mile, West-South-West a quarter of a mile, North-North-
West half a mile, North-West ‘half a-mile, West-South-

/

North-West Continent af America. 281

‘West three quarters of a mile, North-West by West three
miles, West-South-West three quarters of a mile, North-
“West by Westone mile ; a small river onthe right, South-
West a quarter of a mile, West-North-West, islands, four
miles and an half, a river on the left, North half a mile,
‘West a quarter of a mile, North a quarter of a mile,
North-West by West three quarters of a mile, North-
‘North-East three quarters of a mile, North-West by
North half a mile, West-North-West a mile and an half,
d North-West by North half a mile. . The mountains
‘were covered with fresh snow, whose showérs ‘had’ dis-
solved in rain before they reached us. North-West three
quarters of a mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, North
a mile and three quarters, West-North-West a mile and
a quarter, North-West a mile and an half, North-North-
West halfa mile, West-North-West a quarter of a mile,
North half a mile; here the current was slack: North-
West by North halfa mile, North-West by West a quar-
ter of a mile, North-North-West a quarter of a mile,
North-West by West one mile and a quarter, North half a
mile, North-East by North one mile and three’ quarters,
South-West one mile and a quarter, with an island, North
by Eastone mile, North-West. Here the other branch
opened to us, at the distance of three quarters of a mile.

I expected from the slackness of the current in this

branch, that the Western one would be high, but I found
it equally Ilo6w. I had every reason to believe that from
_ the upper part of this branch, the distance could not be
great to the country through which I passed when I left
the Great River; but it has since been determined other-
wise by Mr. J. F inlay, who was sent to explore it, and
found 1 its navigation soon terminated by falls and rapids.

The branches are about two hundred yards in breadth,

3 ie the water was six feet lower than on our upward pas-
sage. Our course, after the junction, was North-North-
‘West one mile, the rapid North-East down it three quar-
ters of a. mile, North by West one milé anda quarter,
North by East one mile and amhalf, East by South one
~ mile, North-East two miles and an half, East-North-

’ East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet; East by South one
mile and an half; North- East two miles, East-North-East
one mile, North-North-East a quarter of a mile, North-
Kast by East half'a a pa aa a et of a

be M

282 ental of a. si through the

welds East-North-East half a'mile, North-East two miles,
North-East by East two miles anda quarter, South-East
by East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet from the left; East
by North a mile and an_half, East by South. one mile,
East-North- East one mile and, three quarters; a river on
the right ; North-North-East three quarters of .a mile,
North-East a mile and an half, North-East by East a mile
and a quarter, East-North- East half a mile, and North-
' East by North half a mile. Here we landed at our, en-
campment of the 27th of June, from whence L dispatched
a letter in an empty keg, as was mentioned in that period
of my journal, which set forth our aces atte pro-
gress, and expectation.. |

Tuesday 20. Though the weather.was clear, we » could
not embark this morning before five, as there was.a rapid.

very near us, which required day-light to run it, that we

might not break our canoe on the rocks.. The baggage we.
were obliged to carry... Our course ,was North by Easta
mile and an half, North-North-East a mile and an half
down another rapid on the West side; it requires. great
care to keep directly between the eddy current, and that
which was driving down with’so much impetuosity.. We
then. proceeded North-North-West, a river from. the
right ; a mile and a quarter, North-North-East a mile.
and. an half; ariver from the left; North one mile and
three’ quarters, North-East two. milets North-East by

East two. miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, |

North-East by East four miles, a river from the left, and

East by South a mile and an half. Here was our encampr

ment on the.26th of May, beyond which it would be al-
together superfluous for me to take the courses, -as thay:
are inserted. in their proper places. : , ;

As we continued our voyage, our attention, was attract-

ed by the appearance of an Indian encampment. We ac-
cordingly landed, and found there had been five fires, and —
within that nipples of days, so that there must have been: .
some inhabitants in the. neighbourhood, though we “ee g

not so fortunate as to see them. It appeared that they bash
killed a number of animals, .and fled in a state of a arm,
as three of their.canoes were left carelessly on the beach,

and their paddles laying about in disorder. ._We soon he

ter came to the carrying-place called the Portage dela |

Montagne de Roche. Here I had a meridian altitude,
which made the latitude 56,3, 51. North.

fie

North- West Continent of America. 283

) The water, as*I have already observed, was much low-
er than when we came up it, though at the same time, the
current appeared to be stronger from this place to the
forks ; the navigation, however, would now be attended
with greater facility, as there is a stony beach all the way,
so that poles, or the towing line, may be employed with
the best effect, where the current es ct: i the use of

ee

€ were now reduced toa very short atowahed : ; the
disappointment, therefore, at not seeing any animals was
proportioned to our exigences, as we did not possess, at
this time, more than was sufficient to serve us for two
meals, I now dispatched Mr. Mackay and the Indians .
to proceed to the foot of the rapids, and endeavour in
their way to procure some provisions, while I prepared to
employ the utmost expedition in getting there ; having
determined, notwithstanding the disinclination of my
: people, from the recollection of what they had suffered in
coming that way, to return by the same route. I had ob-
served, indeed, that the water which had fallen fifteen
feet perpendicular, at the narrow pass below us, had lost
much of its former turbulence.

_ As dispatch was essential in procuring a supply of pro-
visions, we did not delay a moment in making preparation
to renew our progress. Five of the men began to carry
the baggage, while the sixth and myself took the canoe
asunder, to cleanse her of the dirt, and expose her lining
and timbers to the air, which would Hinder her much li ahter.
About sun-set Mr. Mackay and our hunters returned with
heavy burdens of the flesh of a buffalo: though not very
tender, it was very acceptable, and was the only animal
that they had seen, though the country was covered with
tracks of them, as well as of the moose-deer and the elk.
The former had done rutting, and the latter were begin-
ning to run. Our people returned, having left their loads
mid-way on the carrying-place. My companion and my-
self completed our undertaking, and the canoe was ready
to.be carried in the morning. An hearty meal concluded
the‘day, and every fear of future want was removed.

Wednesday 21. When the morning dawned we set for-
avards, but as a fire had passed through the portage, it
was with difficulty we could trace our road in many parts;
and with all the exertion of which we were capable, we did
mot arrive at the river till four inthe afternoon. We found

284 Fournal of a Voyage through t the

almost as much difficulty in carry ing our canoe down'the »
mountain as we had in getting it up; the men being not so

strong as on the former occasion, though they were in bet-
ter spirits ; and I was now enabled to assist them, my ancle
being almost well. We could not, however, proceed any
further till the following day, as we had the canoe to gum,

with several. great and small poles to prepare: those we >

had left here having been carried away by the water, though
we had left them in a position from fifteen to twenty feet

above the water-mark, at that time. These cea leanati ial

employed us till a very late hour.

Thursday 22. The night was cold, and though the .

morning was fine and clear, it was seven ‘beloxe we were In

a state of preparation to leaye this place, sometimes driv-
ing with the current, and at other times shooting the

rapids. The latter had lost much of their former strength ;

but we, nevertheless, thought* it necessary to land very

frequently, in order to examine the rapids before we could
venture torunthem. However the canoe being light, we
very fortunately passed them all, and at noon arrived at the

place where I appointed to meet Mr. Mackay and the hunt-

ers: there we found them, with plenty of excellent fat
meat, ready roasted, as they had killed two elks within a
few baauleed yards ar the spot where we then were. When

the men had satisfied their appetites, I sent them for as’

much of the meat as they could carry. In coming hither,
Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the hunters kept

along the high land, and did not see or cross the Indian
path. Atthe same time, there can be no doubt but the’

road from this place to the upper part of the rapids is to be
preferred to that which we came, both for i i and
safety. '

After staying here ss an hour and an half, we ipted
ceeded with the stream, and landed where I had forgotten
my pipe-tomahawk and seal, on the eighteenth sas
The former of them I now recovered.

_ On leaving the mountains we saw animals grazing in
every direction. . In passing along an island, we fired at
anelk, and broke i its leg; and, asit was now time. tw en-
camp, we landed; when the hunters pursued the wounded
animal, which had crossed over to the main land, but could
not get.up the bank. We went after it, therefore, in the
canve, and killed it. To give some notion of our appe-

tites, I shall state the elk, or at least the carcase of it,

i

North-West Continent of America. 285

whlbiises brought away, to have weighed two hundred and
fifty pounds ; and as we had taken a very hearty meal at
one o’clock, it might naturally be supposed that we should
not be very voracious at supper; nevertheless, a kettle full
of the elk-flesh was boiled and eaten, and that vessel replen-

ished. and put onthe fire. All that remained, with the bones,

&c. was placed, after the Indian fashion, round the fire to
roast, and atten next morning the whole was consum-
ed by ten persons and a large dog, who was allowed his
share of the banquet. This is no exaggeration; nor did
any inconvenience result from what pues be considered as
an ordinate indulgence.

_ Friday 23. We were on the water before day-light ;
and when the sun rose, a beautiful country appeared _
around us, enriched and animated by large herds of wild
cattle. he weather was now so warm, that to us, who
had not of late been accustosied to heat, it was overwhelm-
ing and oppressive. Inthe course of this day we killed a
buffaloe and. a bare ; but we were now inthe midst of
abundance, and they were not sufficiently fat to satisfy our
fastidious appetites, so we left them where they fell. We
landed for the night, and prepared ourselves for ae
at the Fort on the following day.

Saturday 24. ‘The weather was the same as’yesterday,
and the country increasing in beauty ; though as we ap-
proached the Fort, the.cattle appeared proportionably to
diminish. We now landed attwo lodges of Indians, who
were as astonished to see us, as if we had been thé first
white men whom they had ever beheld. When we had
passed these people, not an animal was to be seen on the
borders of the river.

At length, as we rounded a point, and came in view of
the Fort, we ‘threw out our flag, and accompanied it with
a general discharge of our fire arms; while the men were
in.such spirits, and made such an active use of their pad-
dies, that we arrived before the two men whom we left
here in the spring, could recover their senses to answer
us. ‘Thus we landed at four in the afternoon, at the place
which we left on the ninth of May.——Here my voyages
of discovery terminate. Their toils and their dangers,
their solicitudes and sufferings, have not been exaggerated
in my description. On the contrary, in many instances,
language has failed me in the attempt to describe them. I

286 Fournal of a Voyage through the

received, however, the reward of my labours, for ‘they
were crowned with success.

‘As I have now resumed the character of 4 trader, I shall
not trouble my readers with any subsequent concern, but
content myself with the closing information, that after an
absence of eleven months, I arrived at Fort Chepewyan,
where I remained, for the purposes of tear during the
succeeding winter.

et whi:

SSIL ISS IS

Tar following sae, but short, geographical » view ‘of |
the country may not be improper to close this work, as
well as some remarks on the probable advantages that may
be derived from advancing the trade’ of it, under proper.
regulations, and by the spirit of commercial enterprize.

By supposing a ‘line from the Atlantic, East, to the Pa-
cific, West, in the parallel of forty-five degrees of North
latitude, it “will I think, nearly describe the British | terri-
tories in N orth’ bier tea: For Iam of opinion, that the
extent of the country to the South of this line, which we
have a right to-claim, is equal to that to the North of it
which may be claimed by other powers. | _

The outline of what I shall call the first division, i is.
along that tract of country which runs from the head of
Jamesi Bay, m about latitude 51. North, along the Eastern
coast, as far North as to, and through, ‘Paes! s Straits,
round by Labrador ; continuing on the Atlantic coast, on
the outside of the greatislands, in the gulfof St. Laurenc
to the river St. Croix, by which it takes its course, to t
height of land that divides the waters emptying Spemtasiees |
into the Atlanti tic, from those discharged into the river St.
Laurence. ‘Then following these heights, as the boundary
between the British possessions, and those of the American _
States, it makes an angle Westerly until it strikes the dis-
charge of Lake Champlain, in latitude 45. North, when it
keeps a direct West line till it strikes the river St. Lau-_
rence, above Lake St. Francis, where it divides the Indian |
village St. Rigest; from whence it follows the centre of ©
the waters of the great river St. Laurence: it then pro-_
ceeds through Lake Ontario, the connection between it

and Lake Erie, through the latter, and its chain of con-
nection, by the river Detroit, as far South as latitude 42.
North, and tl hen through the lake and river St. Clair, as

North-West Continent oe America, 287

also Lake Huron, through which i sis continues to the strait
of St. Mary, latitude 461., North; from which we wilt
suppose the line: to strike. to the Pit of North, to the
head. of James-Bay, in the latitude already mentioned.

Of this great tract, more than half is represented as
barren and broken, displaying a surface of .rock and. fresh
water lakes, witha very scattered and scanty proportion of
soil. Such is the whole coast of Labrador, and the land,
called East Main to the West of the heights, which divide
the waters running into the river and gult of St. Laurence, »
from those flowing into Hudson’s Bay. Itis consequently
inhabited only by a few savages, whose numbers are pro-
portioned to the scantiness of the soil; nor.is it probable,
from the same cause, that they will increase. ‘The fresh
and salt waters, with a small quantity of game, which the
few, stinted woods afford, supply the wants of nature
from whence, to that of the lone ofthe American boundary,
and the Atlantic ocean, the soil, wherever cultivation has
been attempted, has yielded | abundance’; ; particularly om.
the river St. Laurence, from Quebec upwards, to the line
of boundary already mentioned ; but a very.inconsiderable
proportion of it has been. broken by the ploughshare. »

‘The line of the-second division may be traced from that
of the first at St.» Mary’s,.from which also the line of
American boundary runs, .and is said to continue through
Lake Superior, (and through a lake called the Long Lake:
which has no existence) to the Lake of the Woods, im
latitude 49. 37. North, from. whence it is also said to.
run West to the Mississippi, which it may do, by giving:
it a good deal of Southing, but not otherwise; as the:
source of that river does not extend further North than la-.
titude 47. 38. North, ‘where it is no more than a small.
brook ; consequently, if Great-Britain retains the right of
entering it along the line of division, it must be. im a
lower latitude, and wherever that may be, the line must.
be continued West, till it terminates in the Pacific Ocean,:.
to the South of the Columbia. This. division is then
bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the West, the Frozen.
Sea and Hudson’s Bay on the North:and East. The.
Russians, indeed, may claim with justice, the islands. and
coast from Behring’ s Straits to Cook’s Entry.

. The whole of this country will long continue inthe pos-.
session of its present inhabitants, as they will remain con-
tented with the produce of the woods and_ waters for their.

288 “Fournal of a Voyage through the ’

support, leaving the earth, from various causes, in’ its
virgirstate. “The proportion cof it that is fit for cultivation
is very small, and is still less in the interior parts: it is
also verv difficult of access; and whilst any land remains
uncultivated to the South of it, there will be no tempta-
tion to settle it. Besides, its dlimiate’ is not in general suf-
ficiently genial to bring the fruits of the earth to maturity.
It will also be an asylum for the descendants of the origi-
nal inhabitants of the country to the South, who prefer
the modes. of life of their forefathers, to the improve-
ments of civilization. Of this disposition there is a re-
cent instance. A small colony of Iroquois emigrated to
the banks of the Saskatchiwine, in 1799, who had been
brought up from their infancy under the Romish mission-
aries, and instructed by sacs ata rams within nine miles
of Montreal. - a ol Ra

Al Geerdace diviaion: 68 this potmnlny 1s siinthieds by: iwubicse
of high land, rising, as it were, from the coast of Labra-
dor, and running nearly South-West ‘to the source of the
Utawas River, dividing the waters going either way to the

river and gulf of St. Laurence and Hudson’s Bay, as be-
fore observed. From thence it stretches to the: North of

West, to the Northward of Lake Superior, to: latitude
50. North, and longitude 89.. West, when/it forks :from
the last course at: about South-West, and:continues: the
same division of waters until it passes North of the source
of the Missisippi. The former course runs, ‘as has'been

observed, ina North-West direction, until it.strikes the

river Nelson, separating the waters that discharge them-
selves into Lake Winipic, which forms part of the’said
river, and those that also empty themselves into Hudson’s
Bay, by the Albany, Severn, and’Hay’s or Hill’s Rivers.
From thence it keeps a course of.about West-North-

West, till it forms the banks of the Missinipi or Churchill _

River, at Portage de Traite, ‘latitude 55. 25. North: It

now continues ina Western direction, between the Sas- _

katchiwine and the source of the Missinipi, or Beaver
River, which it leaves behind, and divides the Saskatchi-
wine from the Elk :River; when, leaving those also’ be-
hind, and pursuing the same direction it leads to. the high
land that kes between the Unjigah and Tacoutche rivers,
from whence it may be supposed to be the: same ridge.
From the head of the Beaver River, on the West, the
same kind of high ground runs to the East of North, be-

}
re
‘i

North-West Continent of America. (289

tween the waters of the Elk River and the Missinipi
asta the Portage la Loche, and continuing on to the
latitude 573. North, dividing the waters thatrun to Hud-

-- son’s Bay from those going to the North Sea: from thence

“its course is nearly North, when an angle runs from it to

the North of the Slave Lake, till it strikes Mackenzie’s

Ringer.
The last, but by no, means the least, is the immense

pelea or succession of ridges of stony mountains, whose

Northern extremity dips in the North Sea, in latitude
70. North,:and longitude 135. West, running nearly
- South-East, and begins to be parallel with the coast of the
’ Pacific Ocean, from Cook’s entry, and so onwards to the
Columbia. From thence it appears to quit the coast, but
still continuing, with less elevation, to divide the waters of
- the Atlantic from those which run intothe Pacific. In

» those snow-clad mountains rises the. Missisippi, if we

- admit the Missisouri to be its source, which flows into the
~ Gulph of Mexico ; the River Nelson, which is lost in
-« Hudson’s Bay; Mackenzie’s River, that discharges it-
self into the North Sea ; and the Columbia emptying it-

-- self.into the Pacific Ocean. The great River St.. Lau-
~ rence and Churchill River, with many lesser ones, derive
their sources far short of these mountains. It is, indeed,

the extension of these mountains so far. South on the séa-.
coast, that prevents the Columbia from finding. a more
direct course to the sea, as it runs obliquely. with the coast
‘upwards of eight degrees of latitude before it mingles
with the ocean. |

It is further to be observed, that these mountains, from
Cook’s entry to the Columbia, extend. from, six to eight
' degrees in breadth Easterly; and that along their Eastern
skirts is a narrow strip of very marshy, boggy, and uneven
» ground, the outer edge of which produces coal and bitu-
men: these I saw on the banks of Mackenzie’s. River, as
far North as latitude 66. . I also discovered. them in my
second journey, at the commencement of the rocky moun-

tains in 56. North latitude, and 120. West longitude ; and

the same was observed by Mr. Fidler, one of the servants
_ of the Hudson’s-Bay Company, at the source of the South
_ branch of the Saskatchiwine, in about latitude 52. North,
and longitude 112;. West.* Next to this narrow belt are
vs Bitumen is also found on the coast of the Slave Lake, in latitude
~ 60. North, near its discharge by Mackenzie’s River; and also near the
forks of the Elk River.
2N

290 Fournal of a Voyage through the

immense plains, or meadows, commencing in a point at
about the junction of the River of the Mountain with Mac-
kenzie’s River, widening as they continue East and South,
till they reach the Red River at its confluence with the
Assiniboin River, from whence they take a more Southern
direction, along the Missisippi towards. Mexico. Adjoin=
ing to these plains is a broken country, composed of lakes,
rocks, and soil. AH pk jathhey

From the banks of the rivers running through the plains,
there appeared to ooze a saline fluid, concreting into..a
thin scurf on the grass. Near that part of the Slave River
where it first loses the name of Peace River, and along
the extreme edge of these plains, are very strong salt
springs, which in the summer concrete and crystallize in
great quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the South-
West side of Lake Winipic, are also many salt ponds, but
it requires a regular process to form salt from them.
Along the West banks of the former is to be seen, at ins
tervals, and traced in the line of the direction of the plains,

a soft rock of lime-stone, in thin and nearly horizontal ,

strata, particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Winipic, and
Superior Lakes, as also in the beds of the rivers crossing
that line. It is also remarkable that, at the narrowest part
of Lake Winipic, where it is not more than two miles in
breadth, the West side is faced with rocks of this stone
thirty feet perpendicular; while, on the East side, the
rocks are more elevated, and of a dark-grey granite. »
- The latter is to be found throughout the whole extent
North of this country, to the coast of Hudson’s ‘Bay, and
as I have been informed, along that coast, onwards’to the
coast of Labrador; and it may be further observed, that
between these extensive ranges of granite and lime-ston
are found all the great lakes of this country. | re oreo
There is another very large district which must not be
forgotten; and behind all the others in situation as weil as
in soil, produce, and climate. . This comprehends. the
tract called the Barren Grounds, which is to the North of

a line drawn from Churchill, along the North. border of

the Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the
Hills and Slave Lake, and along the North side of the lat-
ter to the rocky mountains, which terminate inthe North
Sea, latitude 70. North, and longitude 135. West; in the

whole extent of which no. trees are visible, except a few

Stinted ones, scattered along its rivers, and with scarce

a
‘

a
j
j
H
4
t!
Aa

is

North-West Continent of America. 291

@ny thing of surface that canbe called earth ; yet, this in-
hospitable region is inhabited by a people who are accus-
tomed to the life it requires. Nor has bountiful Na-
ture withheld the means of subsistence; the rein-deer,
which supply both food and clothing, are satisfied with the
produce of the hills, though they bear nothing but a short
curling moss, ona species of which, that grows on. the
rocks, the people themselves subsits when famine invades.
them. Their small lakes are not furnished with a great
variety of fish, but such as they produce are excellent,
which, with hares and partridges, form a proportion of
their food. | | : best Arann e
: The climate must necessarily be severe in such a country
as we have described, and which displays so large a sur-
face of fresh water. Its severity is extreme on the coast
‘of Hudson’s Bay, and proceeds from its. immediate ex-
posure to the North-West winds that blow off the Frozen
Metane icc 6% eT Ae :
. These winds, in crossing directly from the bay over Ca-
‘nada.and the British dominions on the Atlantic, as well as
over the Eastern States of North America to that ocean,
(where they give to those countries a length of winter
‘astonishing to the inhabitants of the same latitudes in Eu-
rope) continue to retain a great degree of force and cold
‘dn their passage, even over the Atlantic, particularly at
the time when the sunis in its Southern declination. The
same winds which come from the Frozen Ocean, over
the barren grounds, and across frozen lakes and snowy
plains, bounded by the rocky mountains, lose their frigid
influence, as they travel ina Southern direction, till they
‘get to the Atlantic Ocean, where they close their progress.
» [snot this a sufficient cause for the difference between
the climate in America, and that of the same latitude in
anepet a : Re: | . :
. Ithas been frequently advanced, that the clearing away
‘the wood has had an astonishing influence in meliorating
-the climate in the former ; but Iam not disposed to assent
-to that opinion in the extent which it proposes to esta-
‘blish, when I consider the very trifling proportion of the
«country cleared, compared with the whole... ‘The employ-
ment of the axe may have had some inconsiderable effect ;
‘but Llook to other causes. I myself observed in a coun-
try, which was in an absolute state of nature, that the cli-
mate is improving; and this circumstance was confirmed

292.1" Fournal of a Voyage thea halies

to me by the native inhabitants of it. ‘Such. a se
therefore, must proceed from some predominating opera-.
tion in the system of the globe which is beyond my con- ~
jecture, and, indeed, above my comprehension,and may,
probably, in ahve course of time, give to America:the cli-
mate of Europe. It is well known, indeed, thatthe waters _
are decreasing there, and that many lakes are draining and __
filling up by the earth which is carried into them from the
higher lands by the rivers: and fae may have some partial.
effect. er
The climate on the Wiki coast of Asnieibied sissinnilates
much more to that of Europe in the same latitudes: I
think very little difference will be found, except such as
proceeds from the vicinity of high mountains covered with -
snow. ‘This is an additional proof that the difference in.
the temperature of the air proceeds from the cause pigeon '
mentioned. FRY - y
Much has been said, and much more Mig remains te be ce
said, on the peopling of America. On-this subject [shall _
cote myself to one or two observations, and leave —
readers to draw their inferencesfromthem. 4), |
The progress of the inhabitants of the country imme...
diately under our observation, which is comprised within
the line of latitude 45. North, is as follows: that of the.)
Esquimaux, who possess the sea coast from the Atlantic .
through Hudson’s Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie’s _ ,
River (and I believe further) is known tobe Westward:
they never quit the coast, and agree*in appearance, man-.
ners, language, and habits, with the inhabitants of Green- _ 5
land. The different tribes whom. E. describe under the..;
name of Algonquins and Knisteneaux, but originally the
same people, were the inhabitants of the Atlantic coast,
and the banks of the river St. Laurence and adjacent coun- .
tries: their progress is Westerly, and they are even found
West and North as far as Athabasca. On the contrary, .
the Chepewyans, and the numerous tribes who speak their
language, occupy the whole space between the Kniste-
neaux country and that of the Esquimaux, stretching be- |
hind the natives of the coast of the Pacific, to latitude _
52. North, on. the river Columbia. Their progress is # \
Easterly ; ‘and, accordingly to their own traditions, they -
came from Siberia; agreeing in dress and manners with
the people now found upon the coast of Asia. ila

7

ee ee ——

~

North-West Continent of America. 293.

Of the inhabitants of the'coast of the Pacific Ocean we >
know little more than that they.are stationary there. -The —
Nadowasis or Assiniboins, as well-as thedifferent tribes
not particularly described, inhabiting the: plains on and
about the source and banks of the Saskatchiwine and As-
siniboin ‘rivers, are from the Southward, and. their pro-

gress is North-West. 7 |

nae
Pte

III LSI LES

Tue discovery of a passage bv sea, North-East or
North-West from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, has
for many years excited the attention of governments, and
encouraged the enterprising spirit of individuals. ‘The
non-existence, however, of any such practical passage be-
ing at length determined, the practicability of a passage
through the continents of Asia and America becomes an
object of consideration. The Russians, who first disco-
vered that, along the coasts of Asia no useful or regular
navigation existed, opened an interior communication by
rivers, &c. and through that long and wide-extended con-
tinent, tothe strait that separated Asia from America,
over which they passed to the adjacent islands and conti-
nent of the latter. Our situation, atlength, is in some
degree similar to theirs: the non-existence of a practica-
ble passage by sea, and the existence of one through the
continent, are clearly proved; and it requires only the
countenance and support of the British Government, to
mcrease, ina very ample proportion, this national advan-
tage, and secure the trade of that country toits subjects.-
_ Experience, however, has proved, that this trade, from
its Very nature, cannot be carried on by individuals. A
very large capital, or credit, or indeed both, 1s necessary,
and consequently an association of men of wealth to di-
rect, with men of enterprize to act, In one common in-
terést, must be formed on such principles, as that in due
time the latter may succeed the former, in continual and
progressive succession. Such was the equitable and suc-
cessful mode adopted by the merchants from Canada,
which has been already described.

The junction of such acommercial association with the
Hudson’s-Bay Company, is the important measure which

294 ff ournal of a Voyage through the

I would propose, and the trade might then be. carried on

with: avery superior degreg of advantage, both private and
public, uader the privilege of their charter, and would
prove, in facts; ; the complete fulfilmentof the conditions, on
avhich it was ba st granted, i cca ey WR
It would be an equal injustice to. oe setae party to leds
cluded from the option of such an undertaking ; for if the
one has a right by charter, has not the other aright by prior
possession, as being successors to the subjects of France,
who were exclusively possessed of all the then known parts

of this country, before Canada was ceded to Great-Britain, |

except the coast of Hudson’s Bay,,and having themselves
been the discoverers of a vast extent of country since add-
ed to his Majesty’s territories, even to the. ‘Huperbarcan
and the Pacific Oceans? si sinha

If, therefore, that company i Fic! sna or he averse
to engage in, such an. extensive, and perhaps hazardous
undertaking, it would not, surely, be an unreasonable pro-

posal to them, from government, to give up aright which
they refuse to exercise, on allowing them a just and reas

-sonable indemnification for their stock, regulated by the
-average dividends of a certain number of. BER or the ac-
tual price at which they tr ansfer their stock. ri

_ By enjoying the privilege of the company’s choriens jade

but for a limited period, there are adventurers who would.
be willing, as they are able, to engage in, and carry.on the.
proposed commercial undertaking, as well to give the most.
ample and satisfactory security to government for the ful-
flment of its contract with the company. It would, at
the same time, be equally necessary to add a similar privi-

lege of trade on the Columbia River, and its tributary
pwaters.

If, however, it should appear that the. ‘Hudson’s- Bay

Cosapang have an exclusive right to carry on their trade’
_as they think proper, and continue it on the narrow scale,
and with so little benefit to the public as they r now. do; if
they should refuse to enter into a co-operative junction
with others, what reasonable cause can they —< to go-

_vernment for denyi ing the navigation of the bay to Nelson’s

River; ; and, by its waters, a passage to and from the in-

terior country, for the use of the adventurers, and for the

sole purpose of transport, under the most severe and bind- —

ing restrictions not to interfere with their trade on ‘7

we

“Ss

a na

an

Oi a ee ee

North-West Continent of America. 295

past, and the country between it and the actual éestabliaks
ments of the Canadian traders.*

_ By these waters that discharge themselves into Hud-
eins Bay at Port Nelson, it ts proposed to carry on the
trade to their source, at the head of the Saskatchiwine
River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains, not eight de-
grees of longitude from the Pacific Ocean. The Ta-
coutche or Columbia River flows also from the same
mountains, and discharges itself likewise in the Pacific,
in latitude 46.20. Both of them are capable. of receiving
ships at their mouths, and are navigable throughout for
boats.

- The distance between bide waters is only known from
the report cf the Indians. if, however, this communt-
cation should. prove inaccessible, the route I pursued,
though longer, in consequence of the great angle it makes
to the North, will answer every necessary purpose. But
whatever course may be taken from the Atlantic, the Co-
lumbia is the hine of communication from the Pacific Ocean,
pointed out by nature, as it is the only navigable river in
the whole extent of Vancouver’s minute survey of that
coast: its banks also form the first level country in all the
Southern extent of continental coast from Cook’s entry,
and, consequently, the most Northern situation fit for colo-
nization, and suitable to the residence of a civilized peo-_
ple: By opening this intercourse between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans, and forming regular establishments through
the interior, and at both extremes, as well as: along the
coasts and islands, the entire command of the fur trade of
North-A merica might be obtained, from latitude 48. North
to the pole, except that portion of it which the Russians

-* Independent of the prosecution of this great object, I conceive that
the Merchants from Canada are entitled to such an indulgence (even if
they should be considered as not possessing a rightful claim) in order
that they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their present li-
mits, and*have it in their power to supply the natives with a larger quan-
tity of useful articles ; the enhanced value of which, and the present _
difficulty of transporting them, will be fully comprehended when I re-
late, that the tract of transport occupies an extent of from three to four
thousand miles, through upwards of sixty large fresh water lakes, and.
numerous rivers; and that the means of transport are slight bark canoes.
It must also be observed, that those waters are intercepted by more than
two hundred rapids, along which the articles of merchandize are chiefly
carried on men’s backs, and over an hundred and thirty carrying-places,
from twenty-five paces to thirteen miles in length, where the canoes and
cargoes proceed by the same toilsome and perilous operation.

296 Journal of a Voyage through the, Fe.

have in the Pacific. To this may be added the iii is

both seas, and the markets of the four quarters of the
giobe. Such would be the field for commercial enterprize,
and incalculable would be the produce of it, when support-
ed by the operations of that credit and capital which Great-
- Britain so pre-eminently possesses. Then would this
country begin to be remunerated for the expenses it has
sustained in discovering and surveying the coast of the Pa-
cific Ocean, which is at present left to American adven-
turers, who, without regularity or capital, or the desire
of conciliating future confidence, look altogether to the in-
terest of the moment. They, therefore, collect all the
skins they can procure, and m any manner that suits them,
and having exchanged them at Canton for the produce of
China, return to their own country. Such adventurers,
and many of them, as I have been informed, have been
very successful, would instantly disappear from before a
well-regulated trade.

It would be very unbecoming in me to suppose Ba a
moment, that the East-India Company would hesitate to
allow those privileges to their fellow-subjects which are
permitted to foreigners, in a trade that is so much out of
the line of their own commerce, and. therefore cannot be
injurious to it. Een

Many political reasons, which it is not necessary hibin to
enumerate, must present themselves to the mind of every

man acquainted with the enlarged system and capacities of i

British commerce, in support of the measure which I have
very briefly suggested, as promising the most important

——— |

psihasilic to the trade of the united kingdoms. %

-
SSCCCESOBCaSAe

THE END. |

@eesetPeeasseeed

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Se

225 ie

ee

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