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VOYAGES of the VELERO III

A PICGLOR TAL VERS TON with HISTORICAL BACKGROUND of SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITIONS THROUGH TROPICAL SEAS TO EQUATORIAL LANDS

ABOARD M/V VELERO III

by

DE Witt MEREDITH

AG di Copyright 1939 |

EORGE ALLAN HANCOCK

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f. IS THE PURPOSE of this volume

to present a pittorial account of the work of ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS

on voyages of exploration to tropical seas aboard the cruiser VELERO III, and to por- tray something of the historical background and multiple aétivities of her master and builder, CAPTAIN ALLAN HANCOCK. * Our goal has been to choose material of general interest rather than that of scientific import, informative rather than Strictly ed- ucational, entertaining rather than erudtte. * Available to those intent upon spectfic scientific data are abundant facilities of the ALLAN HANCOCK FOUNDATION for Scientific Research at the University of Southern California, Los Angeles.

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eee one descend from the loftiest mountain peak to the seashore, and possess the aquatic ability to continue on to the ocean’s greatest depth, he would discern that life is most abundant along coastal regions of the sea. At extremes of elevation or abyssal depths few active creatures exist.

As though to strike a balance somewhere in the median plane where land and water meet, the earth’s lowlands are most produc- tive and shallow waters seethe with living organisms. Continental shelves and littoral zones of insular shorelines are most thickly pop- ulated. Yet comparatively little is known concerning marine biology or related branches of marine science.

Salt water covers three fifths of the globe. In the abstract it has long been recognized that marine organisms and oceanic phenomena play a most important part in the complex organization of nature. But scientists have scarcely scratched the surface of potential knowledge to be gleaned from critical examination into the mysteries of the sea.

Recognizing an almost virgin field for scientific investigation in the myriad forms of tidal zone flora and fauna, Captain Allan Hancock many years ago became interested in marine exploration. Moved by a pioneering spirit, this interest developed a series of projects which have resulted in lasting contributions to the ad- vancement of zoology, botany and related branches of science.

Perpetuation of the work begun is assured by the Allan Han- cock Foundation for Scientific Research on the campus of the University of Southern California in Los Angeles, and the presen- tation to the university of the exploration cruiser Velero III. These gifts symbolize a purpose and an ideal. There was purpose in pro- viding means for the extension of frontiers of knowledge and ideal- ism in making it possible for the greatest number of persons to benefit from results achieved.

Over a period of more than two decades, voyages of the motor cruiser Velero III and her predecessor craft have accumulated a vast amount of data and materials that are highly prized by scien- tists and treasured by institutions sharing in the collections. Annual cruises have systematically covered western coast lines of the Americas from the Golden Gate of San Francisco Bay to the waters of Peru and Chile. They have included exploration of the length

and breadth of the Gulf of California and visits to far-flung islands off the coasts of Mexico, Central, and South America.

Several of the expeditions have concentrated upon the equa- torial Galapagos Archipelago and the vast Humboldt Current which surges northwestward out of the Antarctic along the coast of South America, to dissipate itself in the tropical Pacific Ocean.

Any detailed account of the results of such extensive expedi- tions would become so voluminous as to be formidable. Important data and countless thousands of specimens collected on the long voyages are carefully preserved in the archives of leading scientific and educational institutions which have been studiously served by the purposes of the expeditions.

Product of intensive taxonomic and ecological research is the growing library of scientific papers, some of them monographic in scope, which are accredited to Allan Hancock Pacific Expeditions. Several of the best known scientists of the day in their highly spe- cialized fields have participated in the expeditions and contributed their share to the tomes of knowledge.

Foundations for the advancement of this scientific work have been well laid and academic goals are well defined. As continuation of the work passes from pioneering stages to the agenda of higher education in established institutions of learning the attention of scholarly minds has become focused on achievements and objectives of the expeditions.

At this milepost it is perhaps not amiss to observe that the insti- tutional work involved is inseparably linked with the history of Los Angeles. Inspiration to explore new frontiers and pursue scien- tific lore may be found not only in the pioneer heritage of a native son of forty-niners but in early association with paleontologists who unearthed fossils of prehistoric mammals from viscous asphal- tum of the tarry springs on old Rancho La Brea.

In his youth Captain Hancock became imbued with that acute curiosity which spurs scientists to perform the most arduous and often ungrateful tasks in seeking to fathom the secrets of nature. In order to supply something of that background it seems desirable to present a brief biography of the man and fragmentary accounts of his many activities. Light on the past may serve to illuminate the present.

ie

BUG APY

ee Cape Horn in 1849 the great white wings of an old windjammer bellied to the breeze, her bowsprit pointing northwestward toward San Francisco. At the same time another type of schooner rumbled, creaked and groaned over the historic Santa Fe trail to California. Major Henry Hancock was aboard the sailing vessel. Ida Haraszthy, as a little girl, rode in the prairie schooner. These two forty-niners afterward became the parents of George Allan Hancock.

Major Hancock, born in New Hampshire of English parents, sailed from Maine around Cape Horn when the west coast was in the midst of a mighty turmoil over gold discoveries. Law graduate of Harvard University, schooled in military tactics and surveying, a veteran of the war with Mexico in which he won his major’s com- mission, Henry Hancock landed at San Francisco, made a stake in gold at Mormon Island and later went into the parallel professions of legal practice, surveying, and settling land titles.

Politics too figured in the career of Henry Hancock. As amem- ber of the State Legislature from Los Angeles County, he estab- lished a lifelong friendship with Count Agostin Haraszthy, who was the Assembly representative from San Diego County. Born in Hungary in 1812, a scion of the ancient nobility, Colonel Har- aszthy, as he was known in the west, had been honored by Emperor Ferdinand with offices of the crown until a revolution against Aus- trian rule swept away the Haraszthy ancestral estates in 1839-40.

Coming to the United States of America, Colonel Haraszthy pioneered in agriculture in Wisconsin, founded Sauk City, engaged in steamboating on the Mississippi and Wisconsin Rivers, eventually salvaged something from the family estates in Hungary, and in 1849 headed a covered wagon train across the western states to San Diego. At this time his eldest daughter, Ida, was six years of age. She was born in Imperial, Illinois, in 1843.

Colonel Haraszthy was well launched upon a brilliant political career in San Diego but again was lured to agriculture by his pio- neering spirit. He established himself in Sonoma County, and figured largely in development of the vast grape and wine industry of California. Pioneering once more, Colonel Haraszthy acquired the Hacienda San Antonio near Corinto, Nicaragua, planning to develop agriculture and a hardwood industry. He died tragically

in 1869 when the rain-soaked limb of a tree snapped beneath his weight and plunged him into an alligator-infested lagoon.

Ida Haraszthy was educated in California, New York, and Europe and was widely traveled before she was twenty. With her mother, a woman of distinguished Polish birth, she had crossed America in a covered wagon, sailed around Cape Horn, and made two voyages to Europe. Having first met Major Hancock as a friend of her father when she was a child of nine years, another meeting eleven years later blossomed into romance and they were married in San Francisco in 1863. By this time Major Hancock had become a resident of Los Angeles.

George Allan Hancock was born of this marriage on July 26, 1875. A twin brother, Harry, was short-lived. Another son, Ber- tram, was born to Major and Madam Hancock April 11, 1877. The boys spent much of their youth in Santa Monica and on Rancho La Brea. Major Hancock died in January, 1883. Widowed at forty, with two boys to educate, Madam Hancock persisted through years of struggle to carry out plans of her husband in regard to Rancho La Brea, an old Spanish grant which he had purchased.

At fifteen, Bertram died, and Allan carried on with his mother. He dug brea with pick and shovel on the rancho and hauled it to town to be sold for fuel; plowed and raised grain crops; tended the livestock and, at odd times, studied music. When oil deposits were tapped on the old rancho, he worked in the field, learned the busi- ness, and finally began drilling his own wells, bringing the field to its maximum production. In 1909 Madam Hancock married United States District Judge Erskine Mayo Ross, an outstanding California jurist. After the death of his mother on March 15, 1913, Captain Hancock continued with the development of Rancho La Brea. He took keen interest when Dr. John C. Merriam began excavating prehistoric mammal bones from a plot near one of the ancient tar pits.

After a time the tract embracing Hancock Park was set aside as a shrine of archaeological interest and donated to the County. In the interest of progress, the old oil wells were closed down and the derricks removed. With civic needs and the greatest good of the community in mind, the remaining acreage of Rancho La Brea was developed along conservative lines.

CAPTAIN ALLAN HANCOCK

Bee Ze a | THE OLD |

SPANISH AND MEXICAN

RANCHOS

OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY

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San Fernando

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Scale of English Miles

Spanish Leagues 2

RANCHO LA BREA occupies a position on this map just to the westward of Pueblo de Los Angeles with historic El] Camino Real crossi is reproduced through the courtesy of the Title Insurance and Trust Company of Los Angeles

ng its upper borders and extending on through Cahuenga Pass. The map

ORIGINAL HOME of the Hancock family on Rancho La Brea

RANCHO LA BREA homestead as it appeared in the 80's

AERIAL PHOTOS on this and succeeding pages illustrate growth and development of historic Rancho La Brea from rolling fields to a teeming metropolitan area typifying the highest class residential and business areas. Opposite, above, is a portion of the rancho as it appeared in 1922, looking northeastward across the intersection of Wilshire and La Brea Boulevards. 3elow it is an aerial view of the same district taken nine years later, on March 15, 1931. The same intersection looms prominently in the central foreground. Westward, toward the left foreground, begins the famed ‘Miracle Mile’ of Wilshire Boulevard. The photograph above looks northwestward across part of the rancho from the intersection of Third Street and Ross- more Avenue. It was taken in 1922, showing intermediate development of the tract. Schools have been erected, streets and improvements laid out, and residential building has begun.

IO

SKYSCRAPERS RISE along the borders of Hancock Park and modern

old rancho as progress hits a new stride in 1935. Oil derricks have vanished from the tract ad-

structures constrict the

joining Hancock Park in the center of the picture above. Carthay

ground. Pictures on the opposite page were taken in 1931. The from the heart of Hollywood to the shoreline of Santa Monica Bay

ward from Beverly Hills across Hollywood to Los seen in the dim distance

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HOLLYWOOD HORIZON fri

rom the north end of La Brea Avenue fans out across the coastal plain like a sparkling magic carpet, bejeweled at night with myriad lights

once roamed prehistoric monsters known to man only by the finding of priceless caches of

skeletal remains in the tarry depths of asphaltum pools on the Rancho La Brea. Since their dis covery the fossils have excited the interest of scientists throughout the world and the Hancock

ollections at the Los Angeles Museum of History, Science and Art have come to be recog-

zed by students of paleontology as being among the finest in the world.

On those plains

15

Ll REAR PITS

rR the mellow light of early morning when bird songs are cheeriest and the dew lingers to freshen an awakening breeze, a robust man of forceful mien with heavy jowl and shaggy moustache, strode beneath blue gum trees on Rancho La Brea toward the famous asphalt pits.

Colonel Theodore Roosevelt was noted as an early riser. He came to this shrine of antiquity long before most Angelenos were astir. A great naturalist, historian, statesman and commentator— twenty-sixth President of the United States—he disclosed an amazing knowledge of prehistoric mammals and discussed fossil remains with the familiarity of a savant.

Of the collections of bones from the brea pits he said:

“Wonderful! This is the most extraordinary storehouse of fossils in the world!”

On this visit to Los Angeles, July 26, 1915, Colonel Roosevelt’s schedule allowed him only twenty-four hours in the city. So the dawn was barely turning to day when he sped to the rancho to in- spect the pools of liquid tar and observe workmen in the act of excavating bones of extinct mammals which roamed the coastal plains long before the age of man.

The distinguished visitor instantly recognized femurs, skulls, ribs, vertebrae and other bones of various animals and kept up a running fire of learned comment on the finds, exclaiming on the relative size, ferocity and power of different specimens.

After visiting the tar pits Colonel Roosevelt was taken to the Los Angeles Museum to view the world’s greatest collection of western fossil remains and to inspect some of the mounted speci- mens. The immense head of a prehistoric bear impressed him, and there seemed a touch of regret in his voice that he had not lived in that era when the world was young, to hunt the animal.

“It must have weighed 3,000 pounds,” Colonel Roosevelt said.

Remains of the great bear, saber-toothed tiger, Imperial ele- phant, mastodon, giant ground sloth, large dire wolf, great lion, antelope, bison, horse, camel, tapir and dozens of other animals of the Pleistocene Age proved of interest to Colonel Roosevelt.

Early in the same year Captain Hancock had conveyed to the people of Los Angeles City and County the gift of Hancock Park, embracing the treasure pits, together with thousands of fossil

remains which were uncovered by the Los Angeles Museum under a permit granted in 1913. The presentation was made to honor the memory of his father and mother, Major Henry Hancock and Madam Ida Hancock-Ross.

Even today gas bubbles through the sticky mire of the tar pools where so many thousands of wild animals were trapped as they came to drink surface water collected on the pools. The gas seeps upward from unknown depths to form iridescent globules on the restless surface of the seething petroleum springs. The globules break and settle back into slowly dissolving concentric ripples, suggestive of the irresistible adhesiveness of the sticky ooze.

Scientific interest in the tar pit fossils on Rancho La Brea was first aroused in 1875 when Major Henry Hancock presented the fang of a saber-toothed tiger to Professor William Denton of the Boston Society of Natural History. Prof. Denton at once recog- nized the tooth as an important paleontological find and tenta- tively described it as that of a Machairodus, an old world feline of Pleistocene times. The tooth was much larger than any previously known. Subsequent excavations produced complete skeletons and the monster cats were named Smilodon californicus.

Fossil remains continued to pile up as brea from the pits was mined, but scientists failed to pursue research until 1905 when bones of a gigantic ground sloth of a past geologic age were dis- covered. Within the next decade scientists from all parts of the world were attracted to the pits and several institutions were granted permits to examine the ancient deposits. Los Angeles County was granted the exclusive right to conduct the work.

Skeletal elements of Pleistocene mammals totaling 4,264 repre- sentative individuals were recovered from the deposits. More than ninety per cent were carnivores; approximately nine per cent were herbivores. More than half of the carnivores belonged to the dog family, including the large dire wolf, gray wolf, gray fox and coyotes. Among the other carnivores there predominated the saber-toothed tiger, the great lion, puma, lynx and smaller cats.

Bison, horses, ground sloths, camels, antelopes, elephants, mastodons, deer, peccaries and tapirs were among the plant feeders trapped in the tarry pools. The pits yielded elements of 4,189 birds and thousands of rodents, insectivores and bats.

16

I7

SMILODON CALIFORNICUS is the scientific name which paleontologists have given to the prehistoric feline represented by the sculptured head above. This was the Saber-tooth Tiger which preyed on other great beasts of Pleistocene times, long

before the dawn of civilization. In an age of carnivores the tigers were among the most savage of predatory animals

SABER-TOOTH TIGERS are regarded by scien- tists as deserving a rating which would place them among the most ferocious carnivores of all time, though they were not the most power- ful. With dagger-like teeth as much as nine inches in length they slashed opponents and prey, presumably subsisting chiefly on the blood of their victims, for their huge fangs must have interfered with the mastication of flesh. Grinding teeth of most of the cats showed little or no wear; another fact pointing to their pref- erence for blood of their victims. Some speci- mens which had lost or damaged the long, trenchant canine teeth, however, showed evi- dence of the mastication of flesh by the wear of grit and bone on lesser dentures.

8

19

SCULPTURAL FORMS depicting prehistoric monsters which roamed coastal plains of Southern California in Pleistocene times have been erected in Hancock Park beside ancient tarry pits where animals came to drink surface water collected in the pools. Thousands were trapped in the treacherous ooze which has preserved their bones in such perfect state that scientists have been able to recover complete skeletons and reconstruct images of the strange creatures Carnivores long since extinct preyed on luckless beasts mired in the viscous asphaltum and often fought to the death over such carrion. The preceding color plate and the view above

show one of the most striking of the sculptural reproductions, a conception of the massive and ferocious saber-tooth tiger, Smilodon californicus. This group was designed by Jc who died before his work was completed. Herman T. Beck of the Los Angeles Museum of History, Science and Art finished the tiger group and later executed monumental sculptures

s and Great Bear shown on suc

seph Roop,

of the Great Lion (Felis atrox) as well as the Ground Slot ceeding pages.

GROUND SLOTHS of immense size were among those mammals of a remote age whose skeletal remains have been recovered from the tarry springs of Rancho La Brea. Among prehistoric quadrupeds they ranked next to the ele- phants in bulkiness but were dim-witted creatures and ill fitted to survive either climatic changes or the fierce competition for existence in an era dominated by carnivores. The sloths were herbivorous animals (Mylodon harlani) averag- ing nine feet in length; many times larger than their arboreal cousins found in

the tropics today

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THE GREAT BEAR reconstructed in this massive st

garded by naturalists as the largesi carnivorous mammal of

all time and is represented as having been at least one third larger than the huge Kodiak bear of the Aleutian Islands

The mammal often is referred bear

Paleontologists identify the en

Arctotherium californicum

the Pleistocene mammals comprising the

taken from Rancho La Brea w

the coastal plains in past ages

tarry depths of the asphaltum springs. Above is giants, Archidiskodon imperator, created e

of the

IMPERIAL ELEPHANTS almost inconceivably massive roamed Many were trapped, and left

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species pos

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FOSSIL EXCAVATIONS on Rancho La Brea during a tw

produced a total of 4,264 skeletons identifiable as fossils o

THREE SPECIES of Ground Sloths are known from the fc the largest being the Mylodon. They had powerful lim

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o-year period in 1913-15 f Pleistocene mammalia.

finds in Los Angeles, ind fearsome claws

IMMENSE VULTURES long since extinct thrived in southern California during the geologic periods represented by collections from the Rancho La Brea tar traps. Among avian forms was Teratornis merriami, a huge condor-like vulture with an estimated wing-spread of 15 to 16 feet. One of the largest known birds of flight, Teratornis is compared in the accom- panying illustration to the California condor (Gymnogyps californianus), as drawn to scale by John L. Ridgway. A raptor with a curious combination of eagle and vulture-like charac- ters, Teratornis has proven to be one of the most interesting birds in the Hancock Collec- tions. Skeletal bird elements taken from the tar pits total 4,189 representative individuals More than a dozen extinct species of birds have been identified from skeletons and there are many others which are extremely rare. Thou- sands of skeletons of small mammals, such as rodents, insectivores and bats, remain to be studied. The Los Angeles Museum has pub- lished numerous papers on the fossil finds.

HUGE TUSKERS assembled in awesome array among cases of skeletal elements at the Los Angeles Museum stir the interest of students from all parts of the world.

BRONZE PLAQUE commemorating the gift of fossil treasures to the County of Los Angeles by Captain Hancock in 1913 was designed and executed by Carlo Romanelli, noted Chicago sculptor.

GREATEST MAMMAL of all time which lived on land was this giant herbivore Archidiskodon imperator, the Imperial Elephant whose skeleton was recov- ered by scientists from one of the pits on Rancho La Brea.

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COL. THEODORE ROOSEVELT visited the Brea Pits July 26, 1915, and de- scribed them as the ‘most extraordi- nary storehouse of fossils in the world.” About the same time many other not- able personages inspected the finds and commented upon their value to scientists in the study of paleontology In the picture below, Crown Prince Gustaf Adolf of Sweden and his Prin cess are shown beside a skeleton of the Imperial Elephant on the occasion of their visit to the Los Angeles Museum.

PERSONAGES of international repute are in- terested visitors to the fossil exhibits at the Los Angeles Museum. On historic occasions civic and museum officials have received notables such as Prince Axel of Denmark (in uniform

above); Chief Justice Charles Evans Hughes of the United States Supreme Court and Mrs. Hughes (right above) and Thomas A. Edison and Mrs. Edison at left in the group below. At Mrs. Edison’s left is Frank S. Daggett, former director of the museum whose early interest in

La Brea Pits was an important factor in the re- covery and preservation of the fossil finds. Dr A. J. Scott, chairman of the 1915 committee which entertained the Edisons, is seen with hat. In recent years the fossil exhibits have attracted increasing attention throughout the world. A large room in the Museum building is called Rancho La Brea Hall and is devoted almost ex- clusively to skeletal elements and articulated skeletons taken from the tar traps. Under guidance of Dr. John Adams Comstock, director of science, many notable improvements have been made. A summary of Pleistocene life in California by Dr. Chester Stock has been pub- lished by the Museum

WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT, former President of the United States and long a Supreme Court Justice, with group at museum.

PALEONTOLOGIST Henry Anson Wylde re- covers skull of extinct Saber-tooth Tiger from asphalt of one of the ancient animal traps.

HANCOCK HOMESTEAD as it appears today in the heart of Hancock Park, an historic land- mark beside one of the many ancient tarry pools which are of intense interest to scientists

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EXPLORING one of the larger pools on Rancho La Brea in his first boat, built about 1890, Cap- tain Hancock and his younger brother find the surface water shallow and the tarry depths treacherous.

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VISCOUS ASPHALTUM pool which has been drained of water is shown below as it appears today—gas pressure from subterranean depths forming iridescent globules on the surface, which break and recede slowly in ever-widen- ing concentric circles.

1

35

PAP EDITIOMS

I EVERY BOY comes once, at least, the urge to build a boat. Some may be content with the hulk of a flotsam raft. Another’s imagination may require more worthy craft.

The feel of a stanch bottom beneath one’s feet—a hand on the rudder bar—and the world looks different somehow. Adventure beckons, as always, just beyond the bow.

It was the urge to navigate and explore that prompted Captain Hancock in his youth to launch a sturdy flat-bottomed rowboat which he used to paddle about pools of the old rancho. One could have tossed a stone the length of the largest pool, and it would have been easy to walk around it in much less time than it would take to navigate its breadth.

Yet the boat served well as a medium of exploration which could not have been accomplished in any other way. With it, one could voyage over the depth of the ancient pools where lay the world’s finest collection of prehistoric fossil remains, and examine the bubbling, tarry depths which even today provide a phenome- non of interest to all the world.

By prodigious effort, the young explorer could maneuver his vessel over the tricky ooze. Mastery of the humble craft and intent study of the pools stirred in this young man’s blood the ambition to visit unknown shores and pursue fleeting horizons in search of knowledge—factors which always have lured those of pioneer- ing spirit.

The cruiser Velero III had its beginning in that broad-beamed square-ended boat which still rests intact beside the weathered old ranch house in Hancock Park where Captain Hancock spent his youth. Its planking soaked in crude oil and smeared with tarry brea through long years of usage on the pools, the craft may last another half century or more, for it seems immune to weathering. It remains a symbol of youthful ambition.

In those early days when Los Angeles Harbor was mostly mud flats and Santa Catalina was an aloof, barren island, the young pioneer was able to expand his horizons and learned to navigate his own craft beyond the sight of land.

Not content to do things half way, the young man went to sea and worked on ships, studying navigation in the most intensive and practical way until he had earned and received his master’s

papers, authorizing him to navigate ships of any tonnage on any ocean. Acquisition of this knowledge entailed assignments on mer- chant ships, and afterward he engaged in marine commerce as master and owner.

Always there was the urge to navigate uncharted waters and explore little known lands in the interest of science. Moreover there was an intense desire to design and construct a vessel most practical for long range work.

There came a succession of boats—the Cricket, Velero I, Velero II, Oaxaca, and finally the Velero III. Each was an im- provement on the other and each embodied innovations in ship building which often startled shipwrights but proved a credit to the owner. Velero is translated to mean “swift sailing vessel.”

To build a better boat was not in itself sufficient objective. Each had to serve a definite purpose. The Velero III evolved as the last word in a vessel designed and built specifically as a medium for scientists to scan new frontiers for knowledge. From the moment of its launching it was dedicated to the advancement of marine science and related branches of biology.

Personnel for each expedition is important. Every man is chosen with care. Invariably the personnel includes leaders and experts in related scientific fields and those experienced in the work of the expeditions whose worth has been proven. Institutions repre- sented on many of the cruises include the United States National Museum, University of Michigan, University of Southern Cali- fornia, Steinhart Aquarium, California Academy of Sciences, Uni- versity of British Columbia, and the San Diego Zoological Society.

An unrivaled collection of marine specimens taken from the eastern Pacific Ocean and the west coasts of the Americas by the expeditions has been carefully preserved for the benefit of scientific and educational institutions. A great portion of the material has been concentrated at the University of Southern California in Los Angeles where students from all parts of the world have access to the collections. The increasing volume of specimens retrieved and the expansion of study involved impressed upon Captain Hancock the necessity of establishing a foundation through which yields of the voyages of the Velero III might be studied more intensively and the work of exploration be assured of perpetuation.

36

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Wo

STEAMSHIP OAXACA played a prominent part in Captan

as business man, navigator and explorer. She w

ships constructed by the British Admiralty during the Wor! tier and camouflaged submarine fighter of unusual power and and air-conditioned by Captain Hancock, she served

his Hacienda Barron, near Mazatlan, Mexico, to mar] lived aboard her and in Galadpagos Archipelago and another to Alas

Ss conducted one scientiiic

ings she went aground on Burnt Island Reef in Wrangel Captain Morehouse, on the bridge. Ail on board were was salvaged and sold. The reproduction above is from

Mobs, Wieie}st©) II

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THE VELERO II

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LAUNCHING of the Velero III at the Craig Shipbuilding yards in Long Beach on April 2, 1931, was an event which portended much for ihe future of marine science. Because of her novel de- sign and extraordinary equipment she attracted the attention of

rine engineers throughout the world.

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40

GATHERING her brood of auxiliary craf

over rain forests bordering Port Utria

is shown bow-on with boat boom and

rains rarely interfere with work of the

BRIDGE of the Velero II] showing some of the numerous naviga- tional aids and ship controls, including radio beam direction

finder, gyro-pilot control tower, compasses, and engine tele- graph control head.

CAPTAIN HANCOCK on bridge of Velero shooting sun with sextant.

MASTER'S LICENSE earned by Captain Hancock after years of patient study and practical navigation entitles him to master

vessels of any tonnage on any ocean.

SERIAL NUMBER ISSUE NUMBER

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ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS to tropical seas aboard the cruiser Velero III have covered most of the area indicated by the shading in deeper blue from the bleak Farrallones outside San Francisco Bay's Golden Gate to the barren wind- swept coast of Southern Peru and including a large number of offshore islands remote from Mexico, Central and South America. On voyages for scientific purposes the expeditions have touched frequently along continental shores. A first voyage into the Caribbean Sea in 1939 carried the banner of the University of Southern California to the Gulf of Darien and along Venezuelan shores as far east as Port of Spain, Trinidad Island, and Tobago Island, B. WI.

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CHART ROOM of t

=

navigational devices known

bodies many special safet

aboard the largest ocean lin

a

> Velero III is fully equipped with latest

to the science of the sea and em- y features which may be found

RADIO ROOM of the Velero III is adequately long and short wave communication wit! emergency in the most remote areas ol

Standby equipment is another safety factor

SLEEK LINES of the Velero III are best observed as she rests on the ways in dry dock at Long Beach, receiving a thorough cleaning and painting before her 1939 cruise to the Caribbean Sea. She is a steel-hulled craft.

49

DECK CARGO of live birds, animals, reptiles and fi vessel a Noah's Ark appearance as she docks in the basin at Balboa, Canal Zone, on a return voyage from tropical waters Specimens are protected from the sun by tarpaulins

ANNOUNCEMENT of the gift of the Velero III to the University of Southern California as a floating laboratory dedicated to the advancement of marine science was made on January 8, 1939. Above the famed craft is shown at anchor in calm waters of Port Utria, Colombia, on her last voyage under the Hancock house flag. She now flies the banner of U.S.C.

50

ALLAN HANCOCK FOUNDATION for SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH. Northwest elevation of Foundation building on campus of the University of Southern California, facing Student Union Build- ing and the Doheny Memorial Library.

52

53

EWU DATO

ne a west coast center for intensive bio- logical research, especially in the fields of marine zoology and botany, the Allan Hancock Foundation for Scientific Research on the campus of the University of Southern California in Los Angeles embodies a new departure in academic endeavor.

Inseparably linked with the Foundation is the famed explora- tion cruiser Velero III which was presented to the University by Captain Hancock as a companion gift. Provision is made for con- tinued operation of the vessel.

Pioneering voyages of the Velero III which extended over a large portion of the eastern Pacific Ocean made possible the accu- mulation of a vast amount of data and the collection of thousands of valuable scientific specimens. This material in turn made prac- tical the establishment of the Foundation which is intended to perpetuate the work.

Projected voyages of the Velero III will continue the supply of data and materials to the institution and research within the Foundation is expected to guide future exploration of the vessel so that the shoreside and floating laboratories may work in closest harmony toward the advancement of marine science.

Cooperation with outstanding scientific institutions has been the creed of Captain Hancock since he first visualized the value of the work. The Foundation will afford scientists exceptional oppor- tunities to add to man’s store of knowledge.

The Foundation building, designed to cover the major portion of a square in the central area of the University campus rises three stories above ground level and harmonizes with other architectural renderings on the grounds. It includes an adequate number of experimental laboratories; classroom laboratories; lecture halls and numerous other features inspired by the most modern methods of practical and visual instruction.

In the design and construction of the building special precau- tions were taken to make certain that the thousands of prized specimens collected would be properly preserved. Six levels of reinforced concrete stacks designed for dry and humid storage of specimens are provided in the building. There are adequate facilities for simulating the varied conditions under which marine animals and plants exist in nature.

Educational dioramas depicting natural habitats of birds, animals and reptiles supplement museum exhibits of marine life. There is a large lecture hall equipped for the presentation of educa- tional motion pictures, musical concerts, the recording and repro- duction of sound and public address. This section includes offices, a motion picture library of the Hancock expeditions, film cutting and editing rooms, photographic and X-ray dark rooms and other technical facilities.

A part of the institution is devoted wholly to cultural projects linked with a visual education extension service. Provision has been made for a shrine of classical music. From the former Hancock home at Wilshire Boulevard and Vermont Avenue four rooms were moved intact to the campus and restored as a nucleus of art.

Patterned after the famed Villa Medici in Florence, an historic structure of the Italian Renaissance, the home was a landmark in Los Angeles for more than a quarter of a century. It was the crea- tion of Madam Ida Hancock-Ross, whose fine cultural background found expression in channels of good music and constructive phi- lanthropy during the last decade of her full life.

Traveling much abroad, she searched Europe for authentic art treasures which were added in modest good taste to the furnishings of the home. From the finest collections in Italy she selected a series of marble busts of the great composers. With paintings, tapestries, fine wood carvings and a pipe organ these objects of art contributed to the fifteenth century feeling of the music room. She made of it a veritable shrine of music. As a memorial to her devotion to the great classics, the suite of rooms has been restored as a part of the Foundation building to serve again as a rendezvous of artists. Like- wise the Allan Hancock Ensemble becomes an added cultural asset of the university.

Modern art also plays a striking part in the design of the new Foundation building. Sculptural decorations in realistic relief mod- eling have been rendered by Merrell Gage, celebrated sculptor and professor of fine arts at the University of Southern California. Subjects are scientifically important zoological and botanical speci- mens. An immense prehistoric animal group forms a panel on the north wing. Fifty-nine smaller panels decorate parapet walls, the main entrance and the auditorium.

54

ALLAN HANCOCK FOUNDATION for SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH. View of Foundation Building showing east entrance which faces the Town and Gown and Elizabeth von KleinSmid Hall

35

N RECOGNITION of his stewardship in business and his efforts oward advancement of science and education Captain Han cock was elected to serve as President of the Board of Trustees of the University of Southern California. In the accompanying

ohotograph academic honors are conferred by the University of Southern California as Dr. Rufus B. von KleinSmid awards

he degree of Doctor of Business Administration

56

FORMER HANCOCK HOME patterned after the famed Villa Medici in Florence, ltaly. When the residence was razed four rooms were moved intact to the campus of the University of Southern California, there to be restored as a nucleus of art in

>arch

the Allan Hancock Foundation for Scientific Re

ITALIAN MARBLE staircase from former Hancock home which has been incor- porated in one wing of new Foundation building at U.S.C.

MUSIC ROOM foyer and rare objects of art expressive of Italian Renaissance which have been restored and pre- served as nucleus of art.

58

N THE COSMOS of cultural things, a great symphony, a masterpiece in oils, a good book, a simple poem, an apt homily or even a crude sketch may represent the perpetuation of an ideal.

These are the intangibles of life thoughts, expressions, compositions, ideals —which, properly interpreted, may be clothed in immortality. Unlike material things, they cannot be destroyed.

Music, the poetry of sound, probably is the least tangible of emotional factors in human experience, but perhaps the most potent of all the arts. A magic melody, a subtle sonata, may leave a lasting impres- sion on the senses, a stamp on the soul. Appreciation is the only measure by which interpretation of a musical composition may be gauged. Individual capacity to ap- preciate is the variant of culture.

Without effective interpretation, the in- spiration of the greatest harmonist may be lost. A score is but the tool of the artist; motif the embodiment of the ideal. Notes, like words, are but building blocks; step- ping stones to the conception of a theme which may be spiritual, often ephemeral. Thus the translation of music is left to the mercy of the musician.

MUST

ih THE INTERPRETATION of some of the finer classics of the world’s greatest composers, the Allan Hancock Ensemble has won international recognition. An organization founded upon an ideal, this musical group has not stopped short of mastery of any task undertaken.

Few artists have practiced more earnestly to improve technique and to secure fidelity of interpretation. Their zeal mirrors the character of the man who founded the ensemble and has fostered its work. In every project he has undertaken, Captain Hancock has himself worked tirelessly to achieve maximum results. In music, anything less than the best has not been good enough.

Beneath the towering blue gum trees on old Rancho La Brea where he spent most of his youth, he used to sit in the shade and play on a little twenty-five cent harmonica. From the reed mouth organ he turned to the silvery-toned cornet. Finally he chose the cello and studied under some of the best teachers in the west.

Captain Hancock’s mother remembered his talent for music when she searched Europe for art treasures. She brought home a fine violoncello. The gift inspired more serious musical study. Per- sistent practice was more pure enjoyment and recreation than a chore. He often joined local orchestras, playing at dances and in concerts, for practice. As he acquired greater skill, he was invited to play with the Los Angeles Symphony Orchestra, the Philhar- monic Orchestra and in Hollywood Bowl. He was privileged to play under some of the world’s greatest symphonic conductors.

A natural preference for the smaller, more intimate musical group, caused him to settle some years ago upon an ensemble of eight. The ensemble contributed a long series of radio broadcasts to the air waves over nationwide networks during past seasons and has been called upon repeatedly to enlarge the scope of its presenta- tions. At times the concerts have been broadcast over as many as seventy-two major stations simultaneously, and on occasion they have been rebroadcast over foreign stations.

The ensemble has played to hundreds of audiences in schools, clubs and churches throughout California, sometimes appearing as often as five times a week. Concerts always are open to the public. Captain Hancock never has permitted commercialization of his musical avocation.

MUSICAL ENSEMBLE of recent years as it appeared with pipe organ background in music room of the former Hancock home

ALLAN HANCOCK ENSEMBLE of 1939 as the artists played one

of many concerts in connection with the showing of educational

motion pictures obtained on voyages of exploration aboard the cruiser Velero III.

ROSEMARY FARM in the heart of the Santa Maria Valley bolizes another of the major activities of Captain Hancock

opment of the rancho stimulated scientific farming in the ind fertile valley to which earliest Spanish explorers ted. Above is the entrance gate to the farm

64

65

VATA WAN TH

eases. enterprise in the career of Captain Hancock bears the stamp of his pioneer heritage. Like his parents and grandparents, he long harbored a love for the soil. In his youth he learned to follow the plow on historic Rancho La Brea. In one way or another he has kept at it ever since.

Rancho La Brea was all but engulfed by the phenomenal growth of Los Angeles and Hollywood during the first two decades of the century. Its rolling plain became the site of fine residential sections. Its dusty lanes became great business thoroughfares. Towering office buildings line boulevards which once were mere trails bordered by wild mustard. Nowhere else in the world has the transition from virgin soil to a teeming metropolis been so rapid.

More than two thousand acres of choice ranch lands were enveloped by the city and Captain Hancock began to cast about, more or less, for elbow room; for other suitable soil which he might develop. He found it in the Santa Maria Valley, seventy- five miles north of Santa Barbara. There he has developed Rose- mary Farm and La Brea Rancho, helping to create a center of agri- culture which has come to be known as “The Valley of Gardens.”

Glowing accounts of the fertility of the soil and abundance of life in the Santa Maria Valley illuminate the writings of early explorers. Sebastian Viscaino paid such high tribute to the valley that he may well be suspected of some exaggeration. But historians of Gaspar de Portola’s expeditions were hardly less enthusiastic. From the diary of Padre Crespi and the notes of Portola’s recorder, Miguel Constanso, one gathers the impression that native Chumash Indians were enriched by productivity of the soil and had developed the highest culture known among coastal tribes.

Historians picture the Chumash as living in the midst of plenty and sharing nature’s bounty with numerous deities through sacri- ficial ceremonies romantically colorful and often fantastic. In- scribing ecstatic accounts of the richness of the valley, explorers attribute the peaceful hospitality of the tribe to inherent con- tentment.

White men came and went in hordes along El Camino Real during the excitement of the gold rush beginning in 1849, but it was not until 1867 that the first white settler sunk his stakes in the soil of Santa Maria. A townsite was laid out in 1875 and was

at first called Central City. In the following year Santa Maria was adopted as the name of the townsite as well as the valley. Probably it was Father Crespi who originated the name. Con- stanso mentions that the place was christened in honor of an Indian chief, but it seems highly improbable that the devout would invest an aborigine with any such saintly sobriquet.

In the early days cattle raising was the principal industry of the valley, which came to be known as a “Cow Heaven.” Dry farmers found that wheat, barley, oats, corn, and beans did well. Home gardens produced vegetables of remarkable quality. A sugar beet industry sprang up, but probably was overdone. For fifty years after the first straggling settlers began their battle of toil the valley basked in an equable climate, and made commendable but unexciting progress. Suddenly in 1925 it came to life.

Captain Hancock went to the valley with vision and a purpose, rolled up his sleeves and went to work. Here were agricultural and industrial possibilities which challenged his pioneering spirit. From an English syndicate he took over twenty-six miles of rusty and bedraggled railroad line and equipment, along with a group of oil wells and storage tanks at the upper end of the valley. The Santa Maria Valley Railroad was more of a liability than an asset, but it figured in his long range plan for development of the valley, scientifically and commercially. He acquired farm lands and grazing lands and began building for the future. His energies were devoted to stimulating production and orderly marketing in the valley.

Engaging agricultural advisors, trained poultrymen, and quali- fied herdsmen for Rosemary Farm, he inaugurated a system of crop rotation to restore the fertility of overworked soil and soon demon- strated the value of scientific farming. He established an ice plant of ample capacity and organized a packing company which afforded growers a satisfactory market for their products.

Irrigation made possible the growing of crops previously un- tried in the valley and ranchers supplemented grain and bean crops with vegetables. Carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, endive, broccoli, tomatoes, cabbage and a host of other garden products flowed out of the valley to the great markets of the nation where they have gained the reputation of possessing exceptional quality.

66

67

IRRIGATION proved its worth to ranchers of the Santa Maria Valley after Captain Hancock demonstrated the most modern and practical methods of producing fres!

) f pi h vegetables tor the markets of the country. Scenes on this and su

ceeding pages are typical of Rosemary Farm where crop rotation is a para-

mount consideration. Lettuce, carrots, tomatoes, endive, cauli flower, broccoli, peas, beans, corn, barley an

id a host of other hipment by rail

products are grown in quantity for direct s

: o

Bs

A Be: 4

3 Ss ¥ 2 Tat: Ss 4 + i Sy ier ‘: * : oe yo

ROSEMARY FARM, as seen from the air, creates an impression of intense ac tivity. Headquarters of the ranch and a part of the great battery of poultry houses are shown in the center of scientifically cultivated vegetable gardens and forage fields. More than 50,000 fowls may occupy the laying pens of the poultry batteries at the peak of a season. Eggs and dressed poultry are mar- keted throughout the nation. The Santa Maria Valley Railroad runs through the center of the farm. The agricultural department, north of the railroad, is out of the picture. Scenes on the opposite page are typical of the bean harvesting season. While the photographs are representative of scientific farming in the Santa Maria Valley, the principal industry is the growing of fresh vegetables

SANTA MARIA AWAKENED to new opportunities as agricultural production stepped up and local business improved. Within five years the population of Santa Maria doubled and there has been consistent, steady growth throughout the valley since. In 1924, before Captain Hancock arrived, only 68 railway car- loads of fresh vegetables were shipped out of the entire valley. In 1925 out- bound carloadings totaled 1,427. By 1930 outbound carloadings reached 6,606 and the total of inbound and outbound freight reached a peak of 11,240 car- loads. In May, 1927, the Santa Maria Valley originated more shipments of fresh vegetables than any other point in the United States. Freight traffic has held up consistently around 10,000 cars a year and general offices of the Santa Maria Valley Railroad, shown above, are the hub of activity. It is a broad-gauge line which connects with the Southern Pacific coast line at Guadalupe. Santa Maria has come to be known as “The Valley of Gardens.’’ The valley is approximately 30 miles in length, its westerly end opening upon the blue Pacific. Santa Maria miles north of Santa Barbara.

ROLLING STOCK of the Santa Maria Valley Railroad is kept in the finest condition, for the line has its own railway shops. Captain Han cock is a qualified locomotive engineer and is shown at the throttle of one of the locomotives on @ good-will trip to Santa Barbara

LONG STRINGS of tank cars thread their way through the Santa Maria Valley from Roadamite to Guadalupe carrying the output of wells pro ducing a heavy petroleum which is more than

90 per cent asphaltum and is widely used for

highway surfacing.

PACKING SHEDS of the Rosemary Packi terned after the most modern and effic

‘old Storage plant so that shipments

ssible dispatch and safety.

receive choice products of va

ng Company are pat ent in the Southland They are operated in conjunction with the Santa Maria Ice and are handled with the The tramway for icing with cakes of ice in position, may be seen on the

ding platforms, beside strings of refrigerator

ley farms

cars

74

FIELD-GROWN vegetables from Rosemary Farm may be picked, washed, packed, iced, and shipped within the short space of a few hours and start on their way to markets in perfect condition This is why vegetables from the Valley of Gardens are so popu lar among eastern consumers. Above is a view in the packing shed showing endive iced in paper-lined crates ready for load ing in a railway car just outside the door. Crushed ice is blown over the top of the carload with equipment shown in the photo- graph below. Careful packing makes it possible for Santa Maria Valley growers to obtain premium prices on many prod ucts and to compete favorably in distant markets

AERIAL NAVIGATION being the exact science that it is, it naturally holds an musual fascination for Captain Hancock who was scientifically inclined from youth. Over a period of many years, in his quiet way, he has contributed

1uch to the progress of aviation and is an active pilot. Symbolic of his patriotic interest in aviation is this view of an engine nacelle on the Lockheed-14 trans-

nis

port which he flies.

sill

FLYING ENTHUSIASM was stirred to new heights when the tri-motored Southern Cross was flown through California's Golden Gate across the turbulent Pacific to Australia in 1928. Few persons knew that Capt. Hancock had befriended her brave commander, Sir Charles Kingsford-Smith, and made possible that epochal flight. The two men who contributed much to the progress of aviation are shown above at the rail of the Velero III when Sir Charles again visited America after pioneering South Pacific airways. Before the history-making flight Captain Han

cock made a detailed study of the problems involved and observed the charac

ter of the men. He took Sir Charles and Captain Charles T. P. Ulm on a voyage to Mexico aboard the $.8. Oaxaca. Satisfied as to their ability, he quietly went into action and provided all that was needed for the flight. Later he made a gift of the plane to her doughty commander. It wa determined upon a plan to make it po

s about this time that Captain Hancock

ible for young men to secure thorough

Ss training in aviation at minimum cost. Having extensive interests in the Santa Maria Valley, he established an airport on the outskirts of the city and soon afterward launched the Allan Hancock College of Aeronautics. The school started a large number of well-trained men on successful careers in aviation During the business recession there was a period of inac and operations of the college were curtailed. As the dem

y in the industry

grew the flying school was revived on a larger scale early in 1938. When ex

pansion of the air force was ordered by the War Department as a vital factor in the national defense the Allan Hancock College of Aeronautics was ready and able to cooperate. In July, 1939, a contract with the United States of

America was entered into providing for elementary training of Flying Cadets for the Air Corps, United States Army. The Santa Maria Airport was enlarged

auxiliary flying fields were secured and adequate new | dings were erecte

The training program has been carried forward successfully and to the :

77 faction of the Air Corps.

me

ily

iE

FLYING CADETS of the first class assigned to Allan Hancock College of Aeronautics under the Air Corps ex- pansion program are shown above with instructors and Army inspectors. Training scenes appear opposite

} “4 Ke

eo

i‘

NEW BUILDING at east end of hangar line provides administration offices, classrooms (below) and modern quarters for Cadets. Near center of line are new mess hall and immense new hangar. Santa Maria Airport is

fully equipped and is an official off-airways meteorological station of the Civil Aeronautics Authority.

FUTURE PILOTS of the Air Corps, United States Army, are shown below in their snappy gray-blue uniforms and on opposite page in flying regalia. Graduates are advanced to Randolph Field, San Antonio :

HIGH STANDARDS of training and equipment promote efficiency at ‘America’s Air Academy.’ Above is a corner of the main dining room

TWIN TRANSPORTS of the Allan Hancock Col- lege of Aeronautics fly in formation over the upper end of the Santa Maria valley.

A VETERAN PILOT of nearly 2000 hours at the controls, Captain Hancock is shown above with his Co-pilot, W. J. (Pat) Fleming, about to depart from Union Air Terminal, Burbank, in the Lockheed 14. The transport is equipped with the most advanced aids to aerial navigation

SANTA MARIA AIRPORT is ideally located for year ‘round flying. Wind and weather are fa- voraple. The valley is broad and flat. Ap- proaches are clear and ample runways on all points of the compass provide safe landing space for even the largest aircraft. Auxiliary fields are used in student training operations.

SPARKLING WAKE of the Velero III under way is suggestive of vigorous action which is the creed of Captain Hancock. He displays little interest in passive occupations or avocations and has been a moving force in projects of science, industry and the arts which call for alertness and strenuous activity. On voy- ages of the Velero II] many leading scientists of the country have been privi- leged to visit some of the most remote areas of the eastern Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, each doing his bit to increase the knowledge of mankind

HU ATLEARY

Le BLAST of a whistle from the bridge of the Velero re-echoes along rock-bound shores of Gorgona Island off the coast of Colombia and diminishing waves of sound seem to rustle softly through palm fronds and lush tropical growth which drapes the hills and frames her shallow beaches in numerous shades of green.

Two miles to leeward a motor launch comes about and heads bow up for the anchorage. Her twin, another motor launch, idles a bit, gears humming a merry tune as a drum astern hauls in a length of cable to which a deep sea dredge is attached. Scientists aboard dump contents of the dredge on a platform and begin pawing over specimens from the deep as the launch gets under way toward the mother ship.

A sprightly sailing canoe luffs to windward like a skimming dish, her tall white sail outlined against a shimmering skyline, and bounds homeward on a flattening breeze.

Ashore, a skiff piles into the surf and brown arms bend to the oars as five men pull out to sea from a narrow, shelving beach. Like an arrow, a speed boat churns toward the skiff, takes the men aboard and with the skiff in tow, speeds back to the gangway of the cruiser.

The Velero is gathering her brood of small boats utilized by scientists in a variety of activities about Gorgona, from dredging the bottom of the ocean to shore collecting along sandy beaches and rocky reefs. These and four other auxiliary craft make up a complement of useful bottoms especially designed to serve the purposes of the expeditions.

Each small boat is equipped with devices helpful to scientific work and members of the efficient crew use the boats to best ad- vantage in order to facilitate work of the expeditions. A signal from the Velero’s bridge summons the fleet and within fifteen minutes all may be picked up so that the vessel may move on.

Usually while scientists in the auxiliary boats are busy with their individual occupations, the Velero herself will be engaged in deep sea dredging for specimens with the special gear mounted on her bow, reeling 7,000 feet of cable and apparatus to sample the bottom of the sea at various depths.

83 While the Velero is under way, scientists and their helpers

aboard will be poring over thousands of specimens of marine life collected from stations just visited. All may be segregated, pre- served and put away before the next location is reached. Thus the work is carried on ceaselessly, all through the day and far into the night. No time is wasted.

From stem to stern the Velero is outfitted to accomplish the utmost in results on long range cruises. She was designed and equipped to cruise 10,000 miles without stopping and to provision thirty men for ninety days. Her main engines are twin Diesels of 850 horsepower each, direct-connected to twin shafts with opposed screws taller than a man. She has sixteen fuel tanks with capacity of 54,000 gallons. Fresh water storage is ample for all uses at sea.

Five large refrigerators forward afford food storage for perish- able supplies in quantity sufficient for every need. Two more re- frigeration units serve the main galley, another the crew’s quarters, and still another is used for film storage. Refrigeration power units are interchangeable so that there is adequate reserve against any possible breakdown.

All enclosed rooms on the Velero are thoroughly ventilated by separate systems of air intake and exhaust. Heating throughout is electrical. Since the vessel is completely electrified, every section of the ship utilizes modern appliances. Main shaft generators sup- ply current while the craft is under way. Stand-by Diesel-powered generators carry the load at anchorage.

There are two or more mechanical means of doing anything that may be required aboard the Velero. Nothing is left undone to provide every conceivable measure of safety and convenience. She’s equipped for unfailing power under all conditions afloat.

While her decks are spacious and accommodations for person- nel afford every comfort, the vessel is essentially a working boat. Machinery, equipment and stores of supplies make it possible for skilled mechanics and engineers of the crew to construct on board almost any device needed afloat or afield and also to effect all sorts of repairs and replacements.

Often, in out-of-the-way places, members of the crew have been called upon to repair or manufacture parts for machines, earning the gratitude of persons isolated from the world by months of travel.

84

DREDGE REEL on bow of the Velero II] which holds seven thou treated plow steel cable used in dredging ens. Below, the steel

sand feet of specially

hs for valuable scientific spec

ocean de; rside

et going

jawed dredge ne

os Ff oy 7 a,

Sey ~~

SSAC =

Sos

ee i i! : entnce

dging operation: ches dredging in shallc

f the power launche ologis

VELERO III

Belc

Islands, a fertile field for

COLLECTING SPECIMENS throughout the east- ern Pacific Ocean on voyages of the Velero III is attended by intense work on the part of scien- tists. In this group of pictures, collectors are shown utilizing a small dredge which is capa- ble of scratching bottom at depths of two hun- dred fathoms. Native divers sometimes are em- ployed to secure coral heads in shallow waters of the tropics. Minute marine animals are found in and about most forms of coral

SCIENTISTS PORE over dredge haul

landed on demountable screen on fore-

deck used for preliminary sorting

DR. H. W. MANTER, parasitologist, Uni-

versity of Nebraska, examining nema-

tode and trematode parasites collected from fishes. Most marine animals are hosts to numerous parasites

:

5 > i + 4

DR. WALDO L. SCHMITT, curator of marine inverte- brates, United States Na- tional Museum, authority on crustacea, in his lab- oratory aboard.

oceanographer, University =

DR. C. McLEAN FRASI

of British Columbia thority on coelenterates, at

la} Pia

his outdoor laboratory the quarterdeck of

Velero

DR. GEORGE S. MYERS, curator zoo- logical collections, Natural History Museum, Stanford University, ichthyol- ogist, at work on rare specimens of fishes. While large game fishes are best known to laymen, the sea is the home of thousands of tiny species which inter- est scientists.

DR. HUBERT LYMAN CLARK, specialist on echinoderms, Museum of Compara- tive Zoology, Harvard University, clas- sifying specimens.

MUD HAULS taken by

each stop of the Velero are carefully ex

sounding line at

amined for specimens and preserved by scientists. Charles Towers and Alex Hill, zoologists from the University of Southern California, are studying char- acter of a mud haul

COLLECTORS examining broken coral for specimens aboard Velero III. Zoolo- gists Charles Wade and Bruce Craw- ford; botanist Jack Rempel, right

SCIENTISTS and collectors on voyage assembled on the bridge of the Velero with mascots of the cruise —a spider monkey and a Hood Island kid.

SPIDER MONKEYS are favorites of thousands who visit the San Diego Zoo, where many of these amusing animals have been placed by the expeditions Hall Funke entertains the simian.

WEIRD ANIMALS, birds, reptiles and marine creatures are taken in remote corners of the eastern Pacific on each of the expeditions and presented to in- stitutions in the United States. On board (opposite page), they require expert care.

vebdidi

att MAW \\\ iba a)

DR. H. M. WEGEFORTH, president San Diego Zoological So- ciety, authority on aquatic and land animals, aboard the Velero Ill with rare bull pup of the Stellar seal.

KARL KOCH, ornithologist, San Diego Zoological Society, experienced in the care of tropical and marine birds, in the field on Charles Island, Galapagos.

94

SHELLFISHES intrigue scientists, not only because of their ap- pealing beauty and strange forms, but because of their habits and the contributions they make to the amazing history of flora and fauna of the sea. In the picture above, L. M. Paquette is ex- amining pectin shells from the Gulf of California for commensals

CAPTAIN HANCOCK collecting shellfishes with an oyster rake

in shallow waters of t Gulf of

California

ANXIOUS NATIVES along remote shores of the tropical Pacific often crowd about the Velero in their dugout canoes seeking medical aid. In the accompa- nying photographs, natives of Bahia Honda, Panama, are shown as they con- gregated alongside a Velero lifeboat where scores were examined for real and fancied ailments by Dr. Edwin O. Palmer, ship's surgeon on several cruises Through such services members of the expeditions have built friendships with many people in distant lands and not infrequently have been able to alleviate real suffering or, now and then, to save a life.

97

EO UTP EMT

l. AN AFTER starboard room aboard the Velero III there’s an impressive array of complicated instruments, lights, cameras, projectors, tools, and carefully arranged dozens of lenses, plates, filters, slides and attachments.

When the ship is at anchor, usually in some isolated bay far from the haunts of man, one may peer into the laboratory, guided by the whirr of a motion picture camera, and see a pinpoint of light focused on the slide of a large microscope.

A serious, tense individual may be dimly observed working with a maze of micrometric adjustments. This will be one of the able technicians attached to the expeditions.

Probably he will be taking motion pictures in color of some unusual microscopic denizen of the ocean, a minute organism in- visible to the unaided eye. This microscope is one of the finest instruments made, probably the only one of its kind in the west.

Data permanently recorded in the field by the use of this microscope are of immense importance to scientists. Most marine specimens lose their natural coloring within a few moments after they are taken from their native habitat. Motion pictures taken on the Velero with the aid of the microscope provide one means of preserving natural colors and actions of the specimens obtained. These comprise important records for science, and aid visual educa- tion in universities and museums.

There are two other dark rooms aboard, furnished with special equipment to promote the best possible results from expedition work. Developing, printing and enlarging of still pictures can be carried on under favorable conditions at sea.

Light, heat and humidity in tropical waters multiply complex problems for the photographic section. Many ingenious devices and methods have been worked out to surmount difficulties that arise. Refrigeration units maintain proper temperatures for film, paper and developing agents and electric heat is used for drying. Dark rooms are the most complete that could be installed on sea- going craft.

Camera equipment is chosen for its versatility and usefulness under the most difficult conditions. Atmospheric changes are extreme and often rapid in the tropics. Variations in light some- times may be extraordinary.

Locations range from arid desert areas to the most humid tropi- cal shores and from rain-swept isles to snow-clad Andean heights. At sea there are problems associated with humidity and salt spray, fog, rain and wind. Vibration and the normal movements of the ship offer still further obstacles to be overcome.

Motion picture cameras are equipped with a wide range of lenses to be most useful in making educational films. They are used in photographing forms of wild life from enormous mammals to microscopic single-celled organisms. Telephoto lenses rarely are used except to photograph birds in flight or to magnify specimens in their natural habitat, for most wild creatures encountered are easily approached as they have no fear of man.

In the Gulf of California and on remote tropical islands it is not unusual to see birds perched on or under camera tripods, for many species display innate curiosity concerning anything new or strange invading their domain. Marine and land animals often exhibit the same naiveté. Thus many remarkable pictures have been obtained of wild life where man is not recognized as an enemy.

Both still and motion pictures are carefully catalogued so that they may be readily available for laboratory reference and for edu- cational uses in recognized institutions.

Color films have been extensively used in recording the work of the expeditions in all parts of the eastern Pacific Ocean and comprise an important section of the great library of educational pictures compiled in recent years. As color processes are perfected in the industry, they are adopted by the expeditions whenever they become useful to scientists.

Transparencies for projection and natural color reproduction are made with the most modern miniature cameras and there is an assortment of larger equipment for the making of still pictures in black and white. The potentialities of these instruments range from fast action pictures to portraiture. Enlarging machines and printing frames in the dark rooms are the most modern devised.

For purposes of instruction and entertainment on board the Velero there are projecting machines and sound reproducing equip- ment adapted to film sound track and interchangeable for record- ings or radio pick-up. This equipment is constantly being improved and augmented for scientific uses.

98

99

SALLY LIGHTFOOT is the common name applied to this brilliantly colored crab, widely distributed in the tropics. The scientific name, though it sounds equally facetious, is Grapsus grapsus. Sally Lightfoot is phenomenal at getting about over spray-showered rocks, mak- ing spectacular leaps.

ONLY PERFECT specimen of rare spe- cies of starfish known to science is this Leiaster teres in the Hancock collec- tions. Only three specimens are known, the first having been described in 1871. This one was taken March 8, 1937, in Balléna Bay, Espiritu Santo Island, Mexico.

STARFISHES are among the most color ful marine creatures and often have

amazingly intricate

name Cc ally have five points tiples of five. This is an Astrope

VELVETY appearance of the underside

; this Astropecten cus is due to innumerable tube Os 1ts

such

Z by which it crawls or gras ey. Its mouth is in the central portion

of a disc formed by the juncture of rays

Ophioderma

HIGHLY MAGNIFIED mouths of a brittle star,

and a club-footed sea urchin, Eucidaris

panamensis (above),

thouarsii (below), emphasize the highly complicated structures

of

some marine animals which scientists study minutely

MANTIS SHRIMP, common in the Gulf of California, acquired he way it holds its claws, imitative of the sup plicating position attributed to the Praying Mantis of the insect world. A close-up of the shrimp, Lysiosquilla maculata, dis closes details of the head

its name from t

= fe)

aldjpagos

It is a free swimming x

highly magnified siphonophore

Ss

oan, often translucent and sometimes highly colored. Be-

low is the head of a blue shrimp, Macrobrachium olfersii, taken

DELICATE TRACERY of thi suggests a sunburst jeweled with pearls. from a fresh water stream on Chatham Island in the

Archipelago

hydro

IMMENSE CLAWS of some crabs seem all out of proportion to the size of the animal. This oxystome crab, from the Gulf of California, is Randallia ameri-

cana, a female

PROTECTIVE armament of many members of the cancer family often develops fantastic forms. The creature below is a Keep crab, Pugettea dalli, from the coast of California

LONG-LEGGED shrimp bears some resem- SPIDI

ER CRAB dredged from tropical Pacific

blance to angular spider crab shown at right waters has mosquito-like rostrum. Its name is

Stenorynchus debilis.

HARD SHELL crabs often are brilliantly colored but Taleipus nuttallii, left, is a dull reddish brown. Teleophrys cristulipes, below, is a trop- ical spider crab.

107

HAIRY CRAB from the Gulivor California, Pilumnus townsendi, shows one of the myriad forms of camouflage which nature provides for the countless species of crustaceans

PEBBLE CRAB from the Galapagos, Daira americana, usually is found on brown, peb- bly bottom where his form and color secure him maximum protec- tion from marine enemies.

PURPLE SPIDER crab, found only in the Galapagos, Mithrax nodosus, is another crab protected by both color and armament Animals like these have power to regenerate legs and claws lost in battle or by accident

ODD SHAPES among crabs fascinate scientists but remain inexplicable. Cal- linectes bellicosus, below, is a near rel- ative of Callinectes sapidus, edible blue crab of the Atlantic seaboard. He is a prize from San Gabriel Bay, Espiritu Santo Island, Gulf of California.

FREE SWIMMING crabs like the two on this page pursue an altogether dif- ferent existence from that of their less nimble rela- tives and usually are more streamlined and graceful Cronius ruber, left, comes from the Galapagos Is- lands. Note posterior pad- dle-like legs.

108

MARINE EDITION of the common sow-bug is FRESH-WATER crustacean from this isopod, Pentidotea resecata. gos, a phyllopod found in shallow pools.

CALCAREOUS ALGA which forms pink mossy CORALLINA has hard limy joints as shown in

mats on surf-beaten rocks is called Corallina this impressive macrophotograph.

FLYING FISHES are common along Pa- cific shores but the spotted creature above, an immature Cypselurus cal- lopterus, is rather rare

GREEN ALGA shown above at lett is a marine plant of Dictyosphaeria which forms iridescent green masses of large cells in rock crevices. The specimen is greatly magnified

CORAL CLUMP, which resembles a head of cauliflower, is a common form of marine animal (Pocillopora) which many persons mistake for plant life

LITTLE ANIMALS, forming colonial masses, combine to create sponges There are hundreds of different species having this identical shape

Ilo

LACKING A SHELL of its own, this grotesque creature, Hypoconcha panamensis, has its fourth and fifth legs modified to hold half a bi- valve shell on its back for protection.

BLACK MUREX from the Gulf of California, off La Paz, Phyllonotus radix, furnishes a secretion from which natives make purple dye.

BURROWING PIDDOCKS secrete a solvent which enables them to bore smooth holes into

solid rock, coralline formations, or the thick shells of mollusks, affording them protection from numerous animals, chiefly starfishes.

iEAEAL

TROPICAL TICKS have a severe and noxious bite annoying and often infectious to humans and wild animals. A true ectoparasite, Ambly-

omma cajennense is related to the spiders.

GASTROPOD EGG MASS attached to back of mollusk shell, Cardium elatum.

KISSING BUG is the name commonly applied to the glossy Hemiptera below which carries Chagus disease, or sleeping sickness, and occurs in the province of Esmeraldas, Ecuador. Triatoma megnista is related to the assassin bug and is a carrier of the blood parasite Trypano- some rhodiense. Rats are a common carrier of the flagellate protozoan which causes the dis- ease, often fatal to humans within three days. The kissing bug acquired its name from its pro- pensity for attacking the lips.

> up.

e \ eee 4 A 4 if

PUBRER bls phioto- graphed in natural color in a shallow tide pool in the Gulf of California is reproduced from a one- half-inch section of film. These odd little fishes have the power to inflate them- selves like toy balloons, becoming too large for their natural enemies to swallow. Others bear sharp spines which are re- pellant to enemies. This one has the impressive name, Canthigaster punc- tatissimus.

113

BLUE CRAB from Independencia Bay, Peru, is a tiny specimen which has been greatly enlarged in this reproduction. The crab is known to science as Porcellana mitra, a commensal species whose host was a large starfish, Stichaster aurantiacus. Drawn to scale and painted in water color by Anker Petersen, scientific artist, the animal is repro- duced here by means of conventional four- color process plates. The original specimen was only two millimeters, or 0.07874 inch, in length.

® ree (Reali

aay

DECKS LOADED and holds filled for an extended cruise in trop- ical waters, the Velero III is shown dockside about to cast off on a voyage of scientific exploration. Western coast lines of the Americas and their offshore islands are familiar sights to mem bers of the expeditions. Each voyage is care nized t

achieve maximum results for scientific instit

SETS such as this frequently are seen from decks

ADIANT SU

the Velero e

N Ill in tropical seas. The view above includes the

horeline u the eastern portion of Baja California as the it

sun cas s ruddy glow across that broad, arid peninsula. In warm waters of the Gulf of California, many rare and interest

ing forms of marine life are found

nity

COUNTLESS RUGGED ISLANDS and islets dot the Gulf of Cali-

fornia and rise in formidable spires from the depths of the in-

land sea. Most of the islands afford ideal nesting grounds for

millions of marine birds. The six hundred mile length of the Zoologists and bot-

turquoise gulf has not been fully explored. Z anists find it a fertile field for investigation

ISABEL ISLAND, near the mouth of the Gulf of California, is a natural marine bird sanctuary. Hundreds of Socorro Sooty Terns are seen on the nesting ground above.

GULL EGGS are spotted and slightly smaller than a medium-sized egg of the domestic hen. Numerous species of gulls search waters of the eastern Pacific Ocean for food.

118

119

CURIOUS MARINE forms are legion in waters of the Gulf of California. Thou- sands of specimens of animal life from tidal zones and depths of the Vermilion Sea have been collected and presented to institutions for laboratory studies.

(1) Heliaster kubiniji. (2) Centrechinus mexicanus. (3) Clypeaster speciosus. (4) Astropyga pulvinata.

COLOMBIA

ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS z | ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS CRUISE OF 1931-2 Pa || seesoeou i. ea 0 CRUISE OF 1933 TO MEXICO, PANAMA, MALPELO I., f ah =F} : f| TO MEXICO. PANAMA. MALPELO I.. GALAPAGOS, COCOS 1, ¢ NICARAGUA ! ECUADOR, GALAPAGOS. & COSTA ABOARD THE VELERO III i RICA ABOARD THE VELERO Ill

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ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS CRUISE OF 1934

ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS

CRUISE OF 1934-5

; TO MEXICO,GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR. TO MEXICO, GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR. ; ; :

LOMBIA. PANAMA. « costa {~/ | E PERU, COLOMBIA , « PANAMA RICA ABOARD THE VELERO III : ABOARD THE YELERO III

ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS CRUISE OF 1956

TO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA,

MEXICO. ABOARD THE VELERO 1!!

T21I

MAJOR CRUISES of the Velero III to the Gulf of California and eastern Pacific regions, ranging from California to the southern limits of Peru, are depicted in accompanying year by year charts. Dotted lines indicate the courses, and arrows the direction of travel. Cruises represent approximately four hundred and fifty days at sea, one hundred and fifteen of them in the Galapagos Archipelago. Scientists and collec- tors from larger institutions of learning in the United States have been afforded every oppor- tunity to improve their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the eastern Pacific on these ex- tended voyages. The spring cruise of 1939 was routed through the Panama Canal and along the shores of Colombia and Venezuela as far as Trinidad and Tobago Islands, marking the first voyage into the Caribbean Sea. On the latter expedition the Velero III flew the pennant of the University of Southern California from her main truck.

ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS CRUISE OF 1937

TO THE CULF OF CALIFORNIA.

MEXICO, ABOARD THE VELERO Ill

RS

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ALLAN HANCOCK EXPEDITIONS Sheatinedee BIRD ISLES OF PERU ,COAST|OF PERU, | : /

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PORT UTRIA on the Colombian coast is a calm blue estuary studded with islands and bordered with native huts. Tropical storms are frequent. The re- markable photograph of a waterspout, below, was taken during a sudden storm off Cocos Islands when the swirling fury almost overtook a small boat.

FISHING CRAFT hauled up on the shore at Manta, Ecuador, provide quaint | scenery. Native fishermen range over great distances in these small sailing ves-

sels. Homes of the pescadores frequently resemble the bamboo hut on stilts shown in the photograph below, typical of the settlement at Santa Elena, Ecuador

FAMOUS LIZARD among scientists is Diploglossus hancocki, a rare species dis- covered on Malpelo Island some 200 miles off the coast of Colombia and 300 miles westerly from Panama. The island is a sheer rock, on which landings are most difficult. Herpetologists named the species in honor of Captain Hancock who made its discovery possible.

CHASING WHALES to obtain educational motion pictures is an exciting sport for scientists. Tail flukes of a great killer whale are shown as the mam- mal sounded in San Gabriel Bay, Espiritu Santo Island, in the Gulf of California. Greatest show on earth is killers attack- ing a large whale.

A NOTABLE FISH among scientists is the iridescent fellow above named Agonostomus hancocki. It is a fresh water mul- let taken from a tiny stream on Chatham Island in the Galdpa- gos. The specimen most nearly resembles fresh water mullet of the mainland of Mexico and Central America. Many new species of fishes and other marine animals have been discov- ered on the expeditions

SEA STARS are among the most decorative SCIENTISTS carefully preserve prized speci- marine animals. Below is a spectacular resi- mens. Fred C. Ziesenhenne, zoologist, places dent of the Galapagos, Nidorellia armata. minute marine animals in jar of preservative

CARMEN ISLAND in the Gulf of California boasts an inexhaust- ible lake of almost pure salt which is mined from the surface and transported for shipment in carts like those above. Mounds and sacks of salt are shown below.

127

HUA DALUEE

oc IsLAND is a Wave-swept mountain top which the ocean seems eager to demolish. Rising out of the black depths of water which on all sides is two miles or more deep, her highest peak juts some 4,500 feet above the surface. If all Guada- lupe were above mean sea level of the Pacific, it would make a mountain rising 16,500 feet skyward.

An enormous but long quiescent volcano, the island is one of the most rugged and unapproachable of all Mexico’s offshore pos- sessions. It lies about 140 miles off the coast of Lower California; is populated by a few guards and fishermen and provides haven for many forms of wild life.

Most famous for its enormous sea elephants, Guadalupe is not their sole habitat, but here they are most numerous. Grotesque, rugged animals they are, and along the wild, rocky, wave-battered beaches they seem to have found an appropriate home.

Giant combers from the open sea crash on the exposed sides of Guadalupe with the noise of a thousand thunders, making the land- ing of small boats hazardous if not well-nigh impossible. To get safely ashore with sufficient men and equipment to capture prized specimens of these giant mammals and transport them back to zoos for exhibition purposes is a major enterprise.

One good sized male sea elephant will weigh around 6,000 pounds. With head and neck erect, and standing up on his fore- flippers, one of the animals will tower above a tall man. For all their bulk and ferocious mien, they are a clumsy lot. Their mode of locomotion is more like that of an inch-worm than a common Pacific Coast harbor seal or California sea lion.

Sea elephants, however, can slither down a sloping beach faster than a man can walk. One doesn’t get in their way. A blow from a flipper or a mere nudge of 2 mammoth’s nose would send a man flying. They have great crushing power and tusks with which they rend and tear each other.

The sea elephant acquires his name from two characteristics which distinguish him from fellow aquatic mammals and which also give him some resemblance to the elephant family.

Mirunga angustirostris has an elongated snout which appears to be a diminutive of the elephant’s trunk. He also has a thick, crinkly skin with scant hair like an elephant. Naturalists compare

the sea elephant to the pachyderm more because of these features than his size and weight.

Unlike his namesake, the sea elephant has a rather disappoint- ing cry. With a tremendous exhalation of air from his proboscis, the great bull succeeds only in making a ponderous sort of “Whoosh!” which in no wise resembles the trumpeting of the pachyderm, nor the roar of a great sea lion.

Found principally on Guadalupe Island and in small numbers on the San Benitos now and then, the sea elephant of the North Pacific has a counterpart in the South Pacific named Mirunga leoninus, which some say is even larger than the species found off Mexico. Some are said to measure 21 feet in length.

Members of the expeditions captured and brought back alive to the Zoological Gardens in San Diego one monster 18 feet in length, but he was not the largest seen on the shores of Guadalupe. He was selected as one of the healthiest large specimens. Females are considerably smaller than the males. The collection taken for the San Diego Zoo included females and young as well as the bull. Babies of the species weigh 800 to 900 pounds.

To accommodate the sea elephants, officials of the Zoological Society of San Diego constructed a large tank and cage where some of the animals have thrived. So far as is known, they are the only ones alive in captivity.

Thousands of visitors have watched the antics of these strange monsters of the deep, which feed chiefly on fish and consume enor- mous quantities at a meal. Like nearly all seals and sea lions, the sea elephants are subject to parasitic infestations which scientists are studying intently. Diseases among marine mammals are far more prevalent than most persons are willing to believe. Often the ailments of animals are disturbingly similar to illnesses among humans. Stomach ulcers are common among seals and other aquatic mammals. Lung mites and worms take their toll. Liver flukes or trematodes are pernicious invaders.

A wealth of pathological data of this character has been accu- mulated by scientists on the expeditions and many important lessons have been learned. Some of them are being turned to the benefit of mankind as data are correlated and analyzed. Studies are being made of the sources of parasitic infestations.

128

129

_

SEA ELEPHANTS of Guadalupe Island are engaged in terrify- ing combat in the remarkable photograph above. Although such titanic struggles are frequent during whelping and mat- ing seasons, they rarely are seen by man, much less recorded in pictures. Educational motion pictures depicting the life of sea elephants have been obtained by the expeditions.

ENORMOUS HEADS, crinkly skin, large tusks and elongated proboscises of the huge sea elephants are clearly illustrated here. Vicious battles account for some of the scars on these two monsters. The thick hides also slough off in great flakes like chips.

SCIENTISTS SPY o 1 elephants sleeping on beach at Guadalupe I:

How sea elephants shed their leathery skin is indicated

SNORTING DEFIANCE, an eighteen-foot bull sea elephant is segregated from a herd by persuasion of an improvised iron wire gate. He is not combative but objects to disturbance of his slumbers. Below, the explorers have dropped a strong net over a large female of the species in which she will soon be completely entangled and buoyed to the Velero III. On board the animals soon become tame and learn to relish their daily ration of fresh fish from the ship’s supply

SECURELY LASHED in an enveloping net a sea elephant rolls over and over in a tremendous effort to escape to the freedom of the surf. With flippers bound closely to its sides the animal is rendered helpless and ultimately winds up in a cage being lowered overside, as below, in port at San Diego.

DELIVERED SAFELY to the San Diego Zoological Gardens sea elephants from Guadalupe Island are introduced to their new home and keepers. In the photograph below, a taxidermist and helpers carefully create a plaster cast of a sea elephant on the beach at Guadalupe. From the cast the animal was recre- ated in a natural habitat group which has won acclaim in the Field Museum of Natural History at Chicago. Northern sea ele- phants were nearly extinct until a few years ago when a rigid protectorate was set up by the Republic of Mexico. In the past, sealers had slaughtered thousands for their blubber

SCIENTISTS EXAMINE viscera of a sea elephant for parasitic infestation. Seat- ed is Dr. H. M. Wegeforth, president of the San Diego Zoological Society. At the microscope is Dr. Charles R. Schroe- der, now of the New York Zoological Society

MILITARY OUTPOST of the Mexican government on Guadalupe Island has its headquarters and radio station in the building below. Sea elephant herds have been increasing under protection

CALIFORNIA SEA LIONS shown in the accompanying pictures

are commonly known to tour They are perhaps the

most intelligent of marine animals and are preferred by circus

animal trainers for they quickly learn intricate tric These Characteristic of the

were photographed at San Benitos Islar

rookeries is the scene below showing a nursing pup

CAPE SAN LUCAS and its fantastic pinnacles of rock offer a seascape familiar to all coastwise mariners This is the gateway to the great Ver- milion Sea of Cortés, the 600-mile- long inland ocean which is the Gulf of California. In the lower picture the rocky spires are seen across the {ly- ing bridge of the Velero III

3

2)

PLACE OF PEACE seems an appropriate name for the little town of La Paz which nestles on the shore of a sparkling

bay carved from rugged terrain on the tip of Baja California Though doubtless it was a place of peace to harried Mexicans who fled thence to escape persecution on ihe mainland, it has not always remained so. The casual wanderer may find bullet holes in hand-hewn doors and adobe walls frequently are pock-marked by musketry. La Paz was discovered by Fortuno Jimenez, one of the many followers of Hernan Cortés, Spanish conqueror of Mexico, in 1533. The church above is one of the most picturesque landmarks of the city

141

LH Pa

|e clings to the North American continent like a gargantuan cornucopia filled to the brim and bulging in the middle. Overflowing from the lip of the cone is the peninsula of Baja California, an immense appendage which is important because it almost doubles her Pacific shoreline.

No other nation in the world offers greater diversity of climate or topography. Mexico dips her sturdy feet into the dripping tropics, rests her brown shoulders on burning desert sands and rears her proud head into lofty snowclad heights. Her rugged mountain ranges are burdened with treasure. Broad high mesas and fertile valleys are slashed with tumbling streams. Waters of two great gulfs warm her shores. Both abound with marine life.

Despite the rise and fall of ancient civilizations and centuries of development much of Mexico remains unexplored. This is par- ticularly true in a zoological sense. The flora and fauna of her Pacific shoreline and the Gulf of California are little known. Dis- tances so great as to challenge the imagination have been a deter- rent to intensive exploration.

In order to tap Mexico’s rich store of scientific lore two major voyages of the Velero III have been devoted almost wholly to the Gulf of California. Five other expeditions to tropical seas have included numerous stops along her Pacific coast. Knowledge of marine life in Mexican waters has been sufficiently enriched by these expeditions to encourage more detailed investigation.

Ashore there is much to interest the visitor in this vast, mys- terious and hospitable land. Citizenry ranges from the most primi- tive Indian types to people of the highest culture. On the west coast there are numerous thriving communities. Others lie bask- ing in the sunshine of old Mexican traditions. And in the more remote regions one may find aborigines living much as their ances- tors did hundreds of years ago.

Because of their remoteness and aloofness the Seris of Tiburén Island may well be counted the most interesting of the coastal In- dian tribes. Much has been written of them but reliable authorities say they remain one of the least-studied tribes of North America. They are distinctive in habits, customs and language. To the un- initiated they appear to speak with unintelligible clicks and clacks, guttural in character. They call themselves Kun-kaak or Kmike.

From the Opata comes their simpler designation, Seri, which may be translated “‘spry.”

And the Seris indeed are spry. Both men and women are of splendid physique, with fine chests and slender, sinewy limbs. They are erect in carriage. Men and boys especially are notable for their fleetness and endurance. Living from hand to mouth in a sterile domain where agriculture is unheard of, they subsist chiefly on marine life, but also take some land game. In season they make use of mesquite beans, cactus fruits and other sparse vegetation.

Nomadic for centuries, the Seris transport all their possessions on their backs. There is no semblance of permanent abode. Should the weather dictate, they may erect low, flimsy windbreaks of desert brush called jacales. These are the domain of the women. The Seris live under a sort of matriarchy. Each clan is headed by an elder woman and consanguinity is recognized only in the female line. Chieftains are chosen by blood, not might.

Distinctive face painting is regarded as symbolic of Zoic tute- laries, with sub-specific characteristics indicative of clan mem- bership. While this form of personal adornment is suggestive of practices in the Far East, the Seris are definitely Mongoloid in ap- pearance. Isolated for unknown generations, the Seris failed to develop great civilizations such as were known to the Mayas, Incas and Aztecs. The Seris were discovered in 1533 by the great Span- ish explorer, Alvar Nufiez Cabeza de Vaca. So far as history dis- closes, they have changed but little in more than four centuries. Civilization has given them a little clothing and some vices, but this tribe still holds itself proudly aloof and declines to mingle with other blood. This exclusiveness for which the Seris are notable is all the more remarkable because of the pronounced mingling of races in the western Americas. Pure Indian stock is becoming more and more rare.

Many interesting peoples in remote lands have been photo- graphed on expeditions of the Velero III because their characteris- tics and mode of living invariably captivate educational groups. They lend color and human interest to the more serious scientific work of long voyages. From Lower California to the southern limits of Peru, isolated communities have responded to good will visits from the Velero’s personnel.

142

14;

it the Gulf of California. Canoe-s!

e-shape men and pear! divers dot the stretcl

10

important port on the peninsula of Baja Cc

ful history of more than four centuries Paz means ‘Place of Peace.’ Her pah picturesque native bake oven are views on the succeeding page

ALLY tn

a

nar

esplanade and a

two

interesting

ane a = * tA

mS Ga 8 a Pe OS wae an ¥

LA DUENA OF LA PAZ who:

countenance seem to charac

TA5 nosp

itality whic

OLD SPAIN speaks through the personality of this matron who is typical of that admixture of people outliving traditions of the

past and building anew. 146

HIS EYES have smarted in the smoke of battle through more

f

than one revolution in Mexico, but this stalwart remains an

147 alert ond staunch defender of La Paz

ntly of the conflict be- Idren gather ‘round a wded oil tin. In the

149

DESERT PLANTS of Lower California and some of the many islands scattered throughout the Gulf of California stir the in- terest of expedition botanists. The ocotillo, or candlewood (Fouquieria splendens), is not a cactus. It is common through- out desert regions of the southwest.

JUMPING CACTUS is the name which desert habitues apply to 151 this Cholla, a species of Opuntia, for tradition has it that vicious

segments actually jump at passers-by.

Lemairocereus, sp. (Pitahaya agria)

Echinocereus, sp. in bud

15

A)

Uo

Ferocactus, sp. (Fishhook cactus)

Veatchia discolor (Copalquin)

YY SENTINELS of the desert are the weirdly branched sus, commonly called Cardén by natives. Hawks and 154 take advantage of natural protection by building

ymid branches of the giant cactus. This nest was ound back of Agua Verde Bay, Baja California.

BELLE OF THE SERIS is this coy young woman as she appeared one year before she became the bride of the tribal chieftain. Her facial markings are applied with infinite care and may be almost as permanent as tattooing. Heiress to an ancient matri- archy she will some day rule her people as may her daughters’ daughters. Her clanspeople live on Tiburén, largest island in the Gulf of California. Tiburén means shark.

156

15

=

br Lin gat

A SERI BRAVE on Tiburon Island whose forebears

his tribesmen the reputation of beir fighters. Now he dreams all day

h } 1 Ahn-tah-co-mah

|

hero. Huntsmen such as he display phenomenal pow

durance on the trail and in the pursuit oi game.

and ferocious

egendary

ers of en-

BLIND PATRIARCH of the clan silently contemplates past glories of the chase and tribal victories of his people. He has developed a scraggly moustache because he can no longer pluck it with the customary clam-shell tweezers used by braves Facial adornment is lacking by reason of careless observance of the usual clan rites.

158

159

SP ha eeery ©

Pl yesoty

y

ig 6 Gin

DIGNIFIED MATRIARCH of the Seri clan on Tiburon Island whose sons are qualified by custom to become chieftains. Fa- cial markings are applied with natural dies obtained from the ; of marine life. Seris now wear

juices of plants or various fort threadbare clothing cast off from civilization. Formerly they fashioned garments from skins and hides.

IOI

SERI CHIEFTAIN and his girl bride are shown above in an unusual pose. Indians seldom display affection. The bride’s facial clan markings are al- tered from the previous yea! (see page 156) denoting her marriage. At right, one of the elder Seri matrons of the clan Seri types are shown on the op- posite page, each with pro- nounced Mongolian character- istics. Though the men are ex- traordinarily fond of hats, the only ones they have are the gifts of infrequent visitors. The Seris do not spin or weave. Un like most other primitive tribes they do not even create ¢rude pottery. Tools and implements are practically unknown. They do not build save for the crude windbreaks of brush and sticks which they sometimes erect on the sands of Tiburén. In earlier times the Seris fashioned mar- velous robes of pelican skins, wearing them feather side out

BURNING SANDS and blistering sun on the scorched desert reaches of Tiburdén Island sometimes drive the hardy Seris to erect flimsy jacales like that above Members of one family clan are shown below. In all there were twenty-six men, women and children in the group. Formerly large numbers of Seris roamed the wilds of Tiburon. Wars and diseas

> have decimated their ranks

MAGNIFICENT DISTANCES mirrored in calm waters of the Gulf of California create the illusion of micrometric miniatures. Above is a remote stretch of the hidden bay at Puerto Refugio on the northeasterly side of Angel de la Guardia Island, an immense indentation hemmed in by a series of broad sand bars and jutting headlands. In the photo below the Velero II] appears as a mere toy before a background of the Sierra Giganta at Escondido Bay.

SCENIC WONDERS abound in the Sea of Cortés. Men appear as specks on the sands of Willard’s Point, north of Angel de la Guardia Island, above.

-

AWESOME FORMATIONS along the gulf coast of Baja California create a

geologist's paradise for the study of stratification and erosion.

REPTILES THRIVE in the desert country of Baja California and among islands of the gulf. Mem- bers of the expeditions to this region find excellent oppor-

tunity to study many unusual reptiles. In the photo at left Captain Hancock is shown cap- turing an oddly spotted chuck walla (Sauromalus varius) among the rocks of San Esteban Island.

SPOTTED CHUCKWALLA found on San Esteban Island in the Gulf of California is not a poisonous reptile. The only liz- ard of the western Americas recognized as poisonous is the famed Gila monster of desert regions in the southwestern United States

BLACK CHUCKWALLA found on Pond Island in the Gulf of California is rated as an unusually agile reptile, and has

sharp pointed spines rising from its scaly skin. Nearly all such lizards bear protective colorings peculiar to their habitat

16G

SNAKE HUNTERS of the expe- dition are equipped with a snake stick and a small sack to care for quarry. They are stalk- ing a rattlesnake, coiled as be- low. John S. Garth, zoologist, handles the stick while the sack is held by Don Goodger, radio officer. The scene was pictured on Tortuga Island, Gulf of California.

VENOMOUS RATTLER sunning

himself on large flat rock is

coaxed to strike. Then nx snake stick is slipped over his

among

later to snake house of the San Diego

cal Gardens at Balboa Park. His name: Crotalus

se ES

a

my

SOMBER DIGNITY of the four young pelicans just beginning to ac-

quire adult plumage in-

trigues cameraman of the expedition. The birds know no fear of man for they have not been molested. Below is a typical nest of the pel- ican common on the

t of California. The birds have a wide range. Pelicans of the tropics are larger and have exotic colorings

<—-&>

REMARKABLE SCENES above and below reward the persistence of expedi- tion photographers. Above is a close-up of nesting grounds of the Heerman Gull, Larus heermanni, on Georges Island. Below, gulf waters are churned into a froth by millions of leaping anchobetas, harried from below by feeding fishes and from above by hungry marine birds

BOOBY BIRDS on Isabel Island in the mouth of the Gulf of California exhibit no fear of the intrusion of man. A motion picture camera is set up directly over their nest to obtain intimate scenes of family life. In the photograph below an odd Silver Hake, exotic gulf fish, poses in a salt water tank in one of the lab- oratories aboard the Velero III. In these tanks many strange creatures of the deep are photographed in natural color soon after they are caught.

IAS

TROPICAL ISLANDS of the eastern Pacific contrast sharply verdure

o and South America. Throughout the tropic

belong to Costa Rica, are an example. Above, the Velero III

of Chatham Bay. Below, a landing party is shown coming ashore in a heavily |

JUNGLE GROWTH ashore on Wafer Bay at Co Island illustrates the dens

of rain forests which often are so thick that the sun never reaches the

An abandoned gold hunter's shack at the mouth of a fresh water stream is 10wn above. Below is a more remote yn of the palm-lined beach

ayy: roe

DREDGING OPERATIONS

in Chatham Bay at

Cocos Islands produce rare hauls of echino-

derms to the great satisfaction of Dr. Hubert

Lyman Clark, Museum of Comparative Zoology, Harvard University. He identified forty-three

species of echinoderms fro

Tide pool collecting ashore to the zoologists shown b geologist’s hammer is John associate in zoology at the

m one day's work s equally profitable elow. At left, with S. Garth, research University of South-

ern California who has been a member of each

scientific expedition of the V takes charge of the scientif With him are Dr. George S

elero II] and usually c section on cruise Myers, ichthyologist

of the Natural History Museum, Stanford Uni-

versity, and Hugh Merrick,

collector, right.

TROPICAL BAYS of Ecuador, Colombia and Panama also are happy hunting grounds for marine collectors. The pictur bove and at top of right-hand page illustrate the shoreline of Port Utria, Colombia, and are typical of this region.

Below a family of Negroid residents visit an Indian native.

AN INDIAN CHILD at Port Utria px with native pad

her home on stilts, hand-hewn v and a native wic ba

Indians and blacks live in peaceful harmony in the tropi Many Negrc

worked on the Panama Canal, and afterward remained to live in the jungle In some localities the races have intermingled

NEGROID AND INDIAN types found at Port Utria, Colombia, are shown in this group of photographs. The Indian maid below wears a rare necklace of beads and coins

TYPICAL NATIVE VILLAGES along the coast of Ecuador are depicted here. Above are the thatched roofs of bamboo houses on stilts at La Libertad, Ecua- dor. Below is a beach scene at Manta, Ecuador, showing fishermen’s boats hauled up high above the tidal reach. These settlements have a sort of com- mercial tinge sharply in contrast with primitive communities along the coast Trade is maintained through fishing, agriculture and products of the vast rain forests. The country is rich in undeveloped minerals

as

TROPICAL VERDURE in a riverside park at Guayaquil, Ecuadorean metropolis,

screens the Velero |

I anchored in the rushing Guayas River, a great estuary

which extends far inland from the Pacific. Great rafts of bananas are flcated

downstream from the interior to tie up alongside flimsy wharves as shown be

low. The river teems with traffic on the ebb and flow of swift-running tides

Guayaquil, chief po

rt of Equador, is known as the ‘Pearl of the Pacific.’

179

DHL AP HGS

(es where the Southern Cross blinks coldly at the Great Bear across a starry canopy of cobalt skies, the rugged Galapagos Archipelago sprawls along the equator, a vaguely mys- terious and strangely different land, totally unlike other tropical islands or mainland shores of the eastern Pacific Ocean.

There is something curiously vital about this vast misshapen group of volcanic juttings—something extremely remote, gro- tesque, formidable, unconquerable.

Spanish explorers early in the sixteenth century stumbled upon the awesome group while prowling the Pacific in their stubby gal- leons and christened the archipelago Galapagos, after immense tor- toises they found there. To famished sailors the tortoise meat was delectable. Moreover, they could take the reptiles aboard and thus keep live, fresh meat on deck for a considerable length of time.

Fresh water, found on some of the islands, also proved a boon. The starving explorers were so thankful for these things that they named individual islands after their most beloved saints. Tribute to providence must have inspired such names as San Salvador, San Cristébal, Santa Cruz and Santa Maria. Another island was called Isabella in honor of the Queen, patron of Christopher Columbus.

Buccaneers and pirates later used these distant shores for refuge from their enemies; to repair their boats, and to obtain fresh sup- plies. Thus, from the English the islands gained another set of names, honoring a long line of British kings. Somehow they came to be known as the “Enchanted Islands,” though for what reason it is hard to imagine. A modern savant was impressed contrariwise and called this land ““Galapagos—World’s End.”

Encompassing nearly three thousand square miles of jumbled terrain, the islands are almost totally arid except for scanty sea- sonal rains and swirling mists that veil old craters at higher alti- tudes, condensing sufficient moisture on the steep slopes to support some tropical growth. It is only at the higher altitudes that grow- ing things are green, and there is enough pasturage to support animal life. On most of the islands the lower fringes are stark desert waste, where razor-edged rubble and thorny thickets form un- believably menacing barriers to extensive exploration.

So uninviting that they remain but sparsely settled after more than four hundred years, the islands offer almost virgin frontiers

for scientific investigation. Devoid of myths, almost without legends, and barely beginning to make history, the Galapagos com- prise an amazingly fertile field for zoologists, producing many new and rare forms of life unknown on the continents.

Surrounding waters and littoral zones are alive with marine forms which are profoundly affected by the ocean currents. In this region the gigantic Humboldt Current, which sweeps northwest- _ward out of the Antarctic along the shores of South America, diffuses itself in a broad swing westward into mid-Pacific along the equator. Warmer tropical currents out of the Gulf of Panama also play a part in the ever-changing oceanic phenomena of the area.

There are ten large islands in the group and innumerable smaller islands and islets covering an area approximately 180 miles wide and 200 miles long. Because the Spanish named them first and the Eng- lish afterward, most of the islands bear dual names, even on modern charts. We use the English names.

The largest is Albemarle, with the contour of a wrinkled old sock which has fallen from the wash line to the ground. It is 75 miles long and the foot about 50 miles wide. Five giant volcanoes spewed up from the bottom of the ocean and their lava flowed together in a tremendous jumbled mass, forming Albemarle.

Just to the west of Albemarle stands Narborough Island, almost a part of its neighbor. A narrow channel separates the two, and Tagus Cove, on the Albemarle side, forms a fine anchorage. To the north and east of Albemarle is James Island, so recently volcanic that one never can count all the cones and fumaroles in passing. A little further to the east and south is Indefatigable Island, some 30 miles in diameter. Almost directly south of the last named is Charles Island, most famous of the group because of repeated tragedies that have marked efforts to settle on her shores.

Chatham Island, the seat of government, lies to the southeast of Indefatigable. East of Charles and south of Chatham is Hood Island, southeasternmost of the group. Smaller in size, but still immense and most desolate are Tower, Bindloe and Abingdon Islands, lying from east to west in the order named. There are dozens of other islands and islets, the best known being North and South Seymour, Barrington, Duncan, Jarvis, and the Daphne Islands. Only a few support animal life.

180

eee

SYMBOLIC of the Galapagos are the exotic fork-tailed gull and the giant tor- toise. Tnese two natives of the archipel- ago figured in early history of the is- lands. While the gulls Creagus furcatus, persist and seem likely to survive fierce competition for existence, the giant Ga- lapagos are all but extinct for they have been the prey of man for more than 400 years. Early Spanish explorers named the archipelago after the immense tor- toises which provided famished sailors with a welcome food supply. Herbivo- rous reptiles, the tortoises lived on land and were easily captured. Thousands were taken by greedy mariners. Differ- ent species are known from different islands.

GARDNER BAY on the north eastern shores of Hood Is- land provides a bit of awe- some scenery typical of the

Galapagos Archipelago

EL CAMINO de la Muerte (Highway of Death) is the grisly name given to one trail crossing Floreana Is- land. It is marked by bleached skulls of wild bulls

BROAD SANDY beaches such as this one at Banks Bay, Albemarle Island, are rather rare in the Islands

Of volcanic origin,

Galapagos

the group is mostly mountainous, rough

and formidable.

safe

hazardous

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PRINCIPAL ISLANDS of the Galapagos Archipelago are indi- cated in their proper relationship on the chart above which bears the nomenclature of English buccaneers. The islands are spread over an area roughly 150 miles in diameter. The major islands lie just under the equator. Albemarle, approximately 75 miles in length and nearly 50 miles across the foot, is the largest. After more than four centuries the islands even today 183 have hardly been explored.

MOLTEN LAVA flows into the sea from the slopes of rugged Narborough Island in the Galapagos Archipelago, sending great white clouds of steam hissing skyward from the water's edge. In the photograph above members of the 1927 expedition on the Oaxaca approach the sizzling cauldron as near as intense heat will permit. The distant view below shows a long reach of the island shore bathed in lava from volcanic eruption. Along the shore members of the expe- dition found thousands of fish killed by the heat, steam, sulphurous sedimen- tation or sub-sea disturbances. Although volcanoes on the major islands have since lain dormant, vents continually pour forth fumes and steam.

SCALY REPTILES which may have descended from prehis- toric species are principal in- habitants of the low, flattened and desert-like Galapagos Islands called South Sey- mour and North Seymour on the charts. Conolophus sub- cristatus is a colorful crea- ture which subsists chiefly on cacti and sparse grasses.

VISE-LIKE JAWS of land iguanas are used to crush cactus leaves or throttle enemies. They can inflict serious damage. Menac- ing claws also are lethal weapons. Usu- ally docile and lethargic the reptiles are captured by hand. Once aroused they be-

185 come extremely agile. This one tried to tweak the nose of Cyrus B. Perkins.

BROAD-LEAF CACTUS is stripped of leaves as high as the land iguanas can reach. A spineless form of Opuntia is found in the Galapagos, too! If Luther Burbank had only known he might have saved himself years of labor in an attempt to produce a similar spine- less plant in his California gardens.

‘AMOUFLAGE is pronounced among land iguanas of the Gald- pagos. Scale patterns and their col- oring blend amazingly with the ter- rain where they live. A long cactus spine protrudes from the throat of this specimen. Sharp points of simi- lar spines have been found in the flesh of these hardy reptiles, and apparently cause little damage

MARINE IGUANAS resemble their land- lubber cousins in form but not in color. They are a brownish black and blend into the lava rocks and reefs so effec- tively that they are difficult to find. They are more numerous and more widely distributed among the islands than land iguanas. Amphibious reptiles of fear- some mien and unusual habits, the sea guanas feed on marine vegetation of tidal zones. Efforts to keep them alive n captivity have failed because they are champion hunger-strikers. Land iguanas, however, are easily weaned rom cactus to such delicacies as let- tuce and bananas. They thrive in cap- tivity. This splendid specimen of ma- rine iguana, Amblyrynchus cristatus, comes from Tagus Cove, Albemarle

186

RAREST OF SEALS is the sleek Gala pagos fur seal, long thought to be tinct, but recently rediscovered small tidal pool at Darwin Bay, Tower Island. The ferocious old bull at the right is undisputed ruler of the rookery

WITHIN CONFINES of this deep but narrow pool a few more than a score of the rare Galapagos fur seals thrive Once they numbered hundreds of thou sands but they were slaughtered ruth-

lessly by sealers for their fur and oily

D,

blubber. Now they are protected

HIGH ROCKY WALLS of the pool af- ford a sunny shelter for the dozing fe- male at left whose specific name is Arctocephalus galapagoensis

MAN O' WAR birds are found in great numbers among tropical islands of the eastern Pacific. With the greatest wing area for their weight of any bird, they are champions at soaring. Nesting in low bushes, they are unable to get into the air except against a breeze. They never alight on the water

for they would be unable to rise again. As harpies of the skyways, they frighten other birds into disgorging their catches of fish and make spectacular dives to recapture the meal before it strikes the water. These are close-range photos of

Fregata magnificens

DARWIN BAY on Tower Island was formed when the side of an ancient vol- cano blew out and the sea flooded a mile-wide crater. There are ledges and

reefs around edges of the bay but none has plumbed bottom in its abyssal center. Thousands of marine birds nest on the island. The remarkable pic ture at left shows a hungry Man o’ War snapping a shiny anchovy from the water with its long beak and illustrates how this marine bird subsists on fish without alighting upon the water. The male of the species has a wat- tle-like pouch on its breast which it can in flate like a toy balloon

DOWNY NESTLING of the Man o War, right, is all beak and eyes as he perches on his scanty nest of sticks and reeds. The young are fed by their

parents until they acquire full plumage and are ready to fly. Below, a pair of blue-faced booby birds, Sula dactylatra granti, prepare their nest on

Tower Island.

IQI

shown

DARWIN BAY is partly fringed by rocky escarpments as

in this view taken on the 1927 voyage of the Oaxaca. Volcanic

shown below, clear a small space of sticks

tropical heat they sometimes stand over

them to keep them cool, instead of hovering to keep them warn

FEARLESSNESS of most birds in the wild Ga- lapagos Islands is demonstrated above by Dr. Edwin O. Palmer, ship’s surgeon on several ex- peditions. Usually the birds are heedless of man. At right is a Galapagos penguin from Tagus Cove, Albemarle Island. Below is a typi- cal nest of the Man o’ War bird with its single egg. Boobies often have three nestlings of dif- ferent ages to care for at one time.

193

DAL AP AGUS HISTORY

eve ATTACH great antiquity to the Galapa- gos Archipelago, but there is no evidence that early man knew anything about the islands. Unlike mainlands of the Americas, the Galapagos fail to provide archaeologists with relics of the handi- work of man from which history might be reconstructed.

There are legends indicating that adventuresome South Ameri- can Indians may have visited the islands centuries ago, but they were not the sort to voyage afar in crude aboriginal craft, although they ranged afoot over great distances on land.

Exploration in the Galapagos has been so limited that historical conclusions should not be reached. However, it seems reasonably certain that Spanish explorers of the sixteenth century were the first to view the awesome terrain of this remote land. Surely they were amazed at the flora and fauna encountered. Strange reptiles and birds such as they had not seen before greeted their gaze as they scouted chaparral wastes. Huge tortoises and fearsome iguanas un- known elsewhere in the world must have filled the wanderers with apprehension which vanished only when they found the beasts edible. Meat of the reptiles is often called tasty.

In desperate straits from hunger, thirst, exposure, and dis- appointments, the roving seamen must have rejoiced upon finding land where there was food and fresh water. There is evidence that some of the explorers, or the later pirates and buccaneers, left parties on shore perhaps for long periods of time. Other early settlers may have been castaways or deserters. At any rate, some of the older plantings on the islands are supposed to date back to swashbuckling days. There are a great many old fruit trees.

Indefatigable Island boasts a large and long neglected plantation of a species of agave resembling the century plant. Tradition has it that pirates of old intended to use fibre from the plants in the mak- ing of rope. It is possible that early visitors to the islands also may have planted some South American trees found there.

The earliest effort at serious agricultural enterprise is accredited to one General Baldesar who established himself on a high plain of Charles Island probably a century ago. He planted an extensive grove of citrus and tropical fruit trees; introduced domestic animals which since have reverted to wild types, and probably developed gardens on his wilderness hacienda.

General Baldesar, like so many others on Charles Island, came to an untimely end. He was murdered by his peons. Those who sur- vived subsequent privation and hardship eventually were returned to the mainland. The great citrus groves have since been reclaimed by the jungle. It is startling in the midst of thorny, moss-hung thickets to come upon trees bearing large fruit of brilliant hue and luscious flavor.

Since 1832 the Galapagos have been a territorial possession of the Republic of Ecuador. In the past century several attempts at colonization have been made. Once the government established a penal colony which was short-lived. A Norwegian colonization project on Charles Island came to an unhappy ending. Cattle rais- ing has had its ups and downs on Albemarle, Chatham, and Charles Islands. Agriculture is taking the place of animal husbandry.

Probably the most active enterprise in the islands in recent years has been the Rancho El Progreso on Chatham Island, where an early Spanish settler, Manuel Cobos, established an hacienda. Fruit, produce and cattle thrived on the rancho. An old sailing vessel transported the products to the mainland. Since claimed by the government of Ecuador, the old vessel was rechristened the San Cristébal, and it still plies between Wreck Bay and Guayaquil. The rancho, too, is a government subsidy, and settlement of the islands has become a national enterprise.

For more than a century the Ecuadorian government has made sporadic efforts at colonization but it was not until 1937 that any direct program was undertaken. Military outposts were established at Wreck Bay on Chatham Island and Academy Bay on Inde- fatigable Island. It was apparently the desire of the government to bring erstwhile residents under some semblance of protection and afford new colonists opportunity.

But distances are so great and the terrain so formidable that control of the island populace is an extremely difficult task for the military police. Ecuadorians usually are loyal. Most trouble arises from the exploits of adventurers and vagabond sailors. The four largest islands are the only ones regularly inhabited. Others remain almost virgin territory which has been explored but little. In the Galapagos one could travel for days, perhaps for weeks and months, without encountering a human being.

194

COURTING DANCE of the great waved albatross of the Galdpagos is one of the most fascinating and yet ludicrous phe- nomena known to ornithologists. These photographs show two phases of the dance as taken in motion pictures on Hood Island, four miles from Gardner Bay, location of the only known breed- ing place of these rare birds, Diomedea irrorata. Males of the species strut and waddle in eccentric fashion, returning to address the female like a soldier at salute. Then they thrust their long beaks skyward like rapiers; bring them down to one side, touching the wing coverts; parry and plunge into a lightning-like fencing foray, rattling their beaks like experts with the foils. The routine is re- peated time after time with little varia- tion, always to the count of three.

195

GALAPAGOS HAWKS are extremely rare birds and the feat of photographing them in their natural habitat on Hood Island is even rarer. While most Gald- pagos birds feed on fishes at sea, the hawks are carnivorous, robbing nests and preying on small reptiles and rodents. Below are Ecuadorian fishermen encountered on the island on one voyage of the Velero III. The fishermen had sailed more than 600 miles in search of adventure and fish. They found more of both than they had bargained for and welcomed water and supplies from lockers of the exploration craft. Some natives still file their teeth, as illustrated at right, in the belief that it makes the dentures more efficient

SULIVAN BAY on James Island in the Galapagos is memorable for its rugged shoreline, suggestive of Dante’s wildest dreams of an inferno. The fishing smack Falcon is shown at anchor. Her Norwegian skipper, Christian Edvardsen Estampa, at right below, has been a colorful figure in the Galapagos for many years. With him is Arne Graffer, another Norwegian from Academy Bay, Inde fatigable Island. Graffer’s sons, Arne and Erling, are shown at left

CARTAGO BAY lies just above the heel of the giant foot of land which forms Albemarle Island. It affords marine collectors an amazing variety of life rang- ing from microscopic forms to immense Manta Rays like the one pictured above, being hoisted aboard the Velero III. There's a native tradition that the giant rays will wrap their wings around a small boat and dive for Davy Jones’ locker. This has not been demonstrated but one could easily swamp or capsize a skiff. It took eight hours to land this specimen. The capture made interesting

motion picture material. Below are some tropical fishes

FANTASTIC FISHES are common in waters surrounding the Galdpagos but none is so rare as the Antennarius above whose fins serve as feet while he clambers about in rocky tide pools like a clumsy toad. Splotches of color in exotic hues afford him an almost perfect camouflage. He dangles a little an- tenna with a bulbous tip in front of his nose and gobbles down any curious little fishes attracted by tne lure. Below is an odd flat fish of the family Soleidae, Symphurus atramentatus.

NARBOROUGH ISLAND is one of the most remote and probably the least ex- plored of the Galapagos group. Wreck of the tuna fishing boat Radio on Nar- borough is shown above. Below an expedition cameraman is filming species

tS) of marine life in a shallow tide pool, using special equipment

ALBEMARLE ISLAND was formed by the mergence of five immense volcanic cones. Just above Cartago Bay lies a tremendous lava flow which may once have been a molten lake. Its fissures, cracks and vents still reek of sulphurous fumes, but here and there cacti find a foothold.

COMANDANTE Carlos A. Puente, Governor of the Galapagos, Archipelago de Colén, Republic of Ecuador, 1938.

THE VILLAGE OF CHATHAM on Wreck Bay, Chatham Island, is the seat of government in the far-flung Galapagos Archipelago. Ashore is the only light- house in the islands and the only radio station in this area of the eastern Pacific Ocean. The islands have belonged to the Republic of Ecuador since 1832.

Between Wreck Bay and Guayaquil, the sturdy old schooner San Crist6bal plies its way on an irregular schedule of four to six weeks. The vessel serves the people of the Galapagos, bearing supplies to the settlers and carrying their produce to the mainland. Most of the island products come from the Rancho El Progreso, high on the slopes of Chatham Island. The rancho probably was the earliest settlement in the islands and once was the site of a prison camp.

Everyone in the islands knew or has heard of a hardy old pioneer named Cobos who developed the Rancho El Progreso as a private enterprise. He once owned the schooner, too. It is a picturesque old craft, and the decks usually are crowded with passengers who find a certain excitement in vacation voy- ages from the mainland to the enchanted islands. Accommodations aboard have changed but little in sixty years and the atmosphere is one of pioneering and adventure.

Now in the service of the government, the San Cristébal is used chiefly to supply military outposts on Chatham and Indefatigable Islands. To North Americans it is rather unusual that the outposts are made up of cavalrymen. Ecuadorians are great horsemen. But ashore or afloat their spotless white uni- forms, black cavalry boots and jaunty blue caps contrast sharply with the rough garb of settlers and the rugged terrain of the islands. Instead of the hur- ricane deck of a horse, to which he is accustomed, the Governor of the Gala- pagos now sits stiffly athwart a chugging dory bounding over the waves of Wreck Bay when going out to greet visitors.

i Ne

WRECK BAY is served by an old wooden pier surmounted by two streaks of rusty rails which were used by a narrow-gauge steam railway in the heyday of Rancho El Progreso. Wood pilings and rough hewn planks used in its con- struction are remarkable for their hardness and seeming imperviousness to the ravages of time. Pilings are singularly free from barnacles, algae and other forms of marine life. Natives say the wood comes from a Matasana tree found on Indefatigable Island, and interpret the name literally to mean “kill the healthy.’ Below is the San Cristébal at anchor in the bay.

AN OLD FISHING SLOOP was salvaged by the Ecuadorians at Wreck Bay to serve as a port launch but they lacked tools properly to install a new American motor and fittings. Workmen from the Velero III (below) gave a hand and com- pleted the job in short order.

Academy Bay, Piedras Negras by its former owner, is now occupied by an officer in charge of the

military outpost. In a nearby cottage live Karl

fubler, his wife Margarita, and their little girl 1, own below as they appeared in : World travelers, the Kublers settled in the salapagos in 1934

MAROONED FISHERMEN found at Academy Bay on one of the Hancock Expeditions had been forced to abandon their boat at Gordon Rocks, Indefatigable Island, and suffered gruelling pri- vation and exposure making their way four miles to the settlement. The fishermen were taken aboard the Velero III. Provided with food, clothing and necessary supplies they were taken to Gordon Rocks where their craft was salvaged and towed to the safety of Wreck Bay, Chatham Island. Their boat, hardly seaworthy, is shown at right below. Numerous incidents of succor at sea are found in the log of the Velero III for it visits many remote places where ill-equipped craft are most likely to get into trouble. Below, at left, are Mr. and Mrs. A. Worm-Miiller, for- mer residents of the settlement at Academy Bay.

ttn st Bet

207

PLO HME

Ie CALLED 1T their Garden of Eden, but in it they found only back-breaking drudgery, a continual battle for survival, and finally bitterness, intrigue, misery, jealousy and death.

With fond hopes of gaining lasting satisfaction and happiness from the pursuit of philosophical and psychological studies amid the bleak isolation of Charles (Floreana) Island in the Galapagos, Dr. Karl Friedrich Ritter and his mate Frau Dore Strauch von Koerwein set themselves upon the island shores in 1929. There they built their Hacienda Friedo—a combination of their names—and lived until the latter part of 1934. Then violent death took Dr. Ritter. Grief and bitterness possessed Dore.

From Black Beach anchorage on the westerly side of Charles Island a dusty, rough and winding trail leads upward along volcanic mountain slopes to the Ritter place. It is a tortuous way, through desert scrub, leafless bursera, and cacti with unbelievably long and sharp spines.

On the lower edge of a broad pampa, ever so much like the African veldt, a little spring trickles from the hillside beneath a wild tangled grove, and forms an oasis. It is a steep climb from the beach to the Ritter plantings. Once there the traveler is most im- pressed by the tremendous amount of labor that went into the making of this garden spot.

One finds more than fifty varieties of food-bearing trees, shrubs, vines and plants which were tenderly nurtured by this modern Robinson Crusoe and his mate. Most of them are tropical or semi-tropical plants, and some are extremely rare. Friedo had no lack of fresh fruits and vegetables throughout the year. And the island is alive with wild cattle, wild pigs, donkeys, dogs and cats, left there by early Spanish settlers. The animals have reverted to wild types and through inbreeding have deteriorated in size.

Ritter used native trees for timbering and salvaged corrugated iron for roofing in roughly erecting a spacious lean-to shanty with the open side facing the sea. Split bamboo was used largely for walls and flooring. Chairs, tables and other furnishings were constructed in rustic fashion from native woods.

They tamed wild burros which carried heavy loads for them; raised chickens and turtles; fought rodents and wild birds; and built fences to keep out wild pigs and cattle that foraged in their

gardens; often contaminated their water source. Animals were a nuisance, for these hermits were almost exclusively vegetarians.

A little waterfall below the spring provided them with a natural shower bath. One of their many annoyances was a shortage of soap. They had not learned to make it. Garden tools were continually breaking, but Dr. Ritter had a grindstone and an anvil; a few necessary tools for repair work, a certain ingenuity and indomitable will to conquer the wilderness.

As time permitted, he wrote in a philacophical vein, but with- out much orderliness. Some of his philosophy of isolation has been preserved in letters and in Dore’s book “Satan Came to Eden.” She was not speaking of serpents or apples, nor even horned and hoofed devils, but of human intrusion upon their solitude a deux.

Heinz Wittmer, another German escapist, arrived on the shores of Floreana in August of 1932 accompanied by a blonde young woman whom he affectionately called ‘‘Greta,” and a slender stripling of a lad, Harry Wittmer. Margaret was the name of the comely companion of Wittmer who so casually deserted Europe to struggle for existence in a thorny wilderness.

For a time the Wittmer abode was established in pirate caves strangely hollowed by nature in the face of towering cliffs border- ing a grassy, brush-grown mesa high on the slopes of a broad shelf joining two volcanic cones. Gradually they managed to construct a home from stones and salvaged lumber.

Rolf Hans—first white child born in the Galapagos Islands— came to brighten life at the Wittmer hacienda just at the close of the “‘gartia”’ season on the first day of 1933. A little girl, Ingeborg Floreana, was born April 18, 1937.

The Ritters and Wittmers seem to have gotten on well enough as distant neighbors until the arrival at Postoffice Bay in October, 1932 of the Baroness Eloisa Bosquet von Wagner. She was, she said, of the Viennese nobility, latterly from Paris, whence she voy- aged to the Galapagos with two male companions, Alfred Rudolf Lorenz and Robert Philippson. In her retinue too, was Felipe Valdevieso, an Ecuadorian youth engaged to help the Baroness enforce her proclaimed intention to establish herself as Empress of the Galapagos. The newcomers carved out an hacienda near the Wittmers on the slopes of the highest volcanic cone of the island.

208

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PHILOSOPHICAL ESCAPISTS were this Germanic pair whose idyllic existence on Charles or Floreana Island in the Galapagos was rudely shattered by the intrusion of tragedy. Above are Dr. Karl Friedrich Ritter and Frau Dore Strauch von Koerwein as they appeared in their island Eden, Friedo, in 1932. Below is a view of the island.

RITTER DOMAIN on Charles Is- land covered seven and a half

acres, of which approximately one-third was vigorously cullti- vated. Near the center of th clearing was the ramshack home constructed of roughly hewn timbers and roofed wit! corrugated sheet metal, mostly salvaged from an abandoned Norwegian colony at Postoffice Bay. The mild climate permitted Ritter and Frau Dore to live in comfort though their house was open on the north. Frau Dore is shown in front of the structure with a pet baby burro

SINCE THE DEATH of Dr. Ritter November 21, 1934, the Ritter home has been dismantled by other islanders and everything useful taken away. Gardens and groves, however, have been carefully tended by suc- cessors to the Ritters for they comprise an important source of food supply

FRAU DORE was found alone and desolate in her tropical home a few weeks after the death of Dr. Ritter and pleaded to be taken to the mainland where she might transship to Germany, her homeland. She was taken aboard the Velero III to Guayaquil. Upon her return to Europe she completed and later published her sad epic of the Galapagos, “Satan Came

to Eden.”

VELERO VOYAGEURS rest beneath spreading branches of a great Galapagos plum tree, Sponish Ciruela, on the Ritter plantation The trees evidently were planted by pre-Darwinian settlers in the islands. Below, Captan Hancock pays tribute to the memory of Dr. Ritter, whose grave is marked by a pile of stones and a rustic cross bearing a name plate

MOST COLORFUL figure in recent history of the Galapagos was the self-styled Baroness Eloisa Bosquet von Wagner who reached Charles Island late in 1932 with three male companions and proclaimed herself Empress of the Archipela- go. Her imperious manner led to bickering and strife and many strange tales of her conduct are recounted by those who came in contact with her. Coming from Paris, France, the Baroness was accompanied by her erstwhile favorite; blond, emaciated Alfred Rudolf Lorenz. Two other stalwart young men of ad- venturous spirit, Robert Philippson and Felipe Valdevieso, also accompanied the Baroness. The entourage set up a camp in the old pirate caves near the Wittmer hacienda; gradually succeeded in constructing a crude shanty of boulders and timbers and developed productive gardens. The picture of the Baroness above was taken in her rock garden in 1933. Habitually she wore halter top and shorts fashioned from jeans.

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HAUGHTY and dom- ineering, the Baron- ess is shown on her hacienda with Phil- ippson, who became her favorite after Lo- renz weakened from toil and bitter strife in the wilderness.

Wate (GYNIGILIEID) Jat Hacienda Paradaiso but the inscrutable smile of Alfred Ru- dolf Lorenz in this photo taken in 1933 seems to tell some- thing of the bitter- ness and hardship which resulted in tragedy a year later.

TRAGIC FATE of Lorenz is symbolized by the flag of distress fluttering above bleak, parched sands of barren Bindloe (Marchena) Island. Lorenz and Trygve Nuggerood, a Norwegian fisherman, vanished in the latter’s sloop, the Dina- mita, enroute from Academy Bay to Wreck Bay on July 13, 1934. Their dehy- drated bodies were found on Marchena's shores November 17, 1934. They died of hunger and thirst amid untold suffering. With them when their craft was driven from its course by swirling currents was Pasmino. Neither Pasmino nor the Dinamita have been seen since. Mariners assume the ill-fated boy was swept far out into mid-Pacific by the irresistible Humboldt current.

ESOME reminders of trag- edy are the bodies of Alfred Rudolf Lorenz, above, and Trygve Nuggerood, right, as they appeared when found on Marchena Island.

LEFT BEHIND were Mrs. Nuggerood and her bat

toy, innocent Unfinished

victims of a frontier life beset by mysterious dangers chapter of the sad saga of the Galdpagos is the inexplicable disappearance of the Baroness von Wagner and Philippson from their Floreana hacienda. They were last seen on the is- land in March, 1934. Those who knew were murdered beside some island trail

2m best say these two

BARREL POSTOFFICE on Postoffice Bay, Floreana Island, stands as a memorial to the many tragedies of the place. At one time it was only a weathered keg, but visiting mariners have rebuilt and painied it so that it bears something of the dignity to which its history entitles it. Visiting ships leave or pick up mail at irregular intervals ranging from a week to a year. Since the island gained so much notoriety after the short-lived reign of the Baroness, ships stop more often if for no other reason than to satisfy the curiosity of travelers. Due to the island's inglorious history, perhaps, the Ecuadorian Government for a time established a seat of authority at Black Beach Anchorage and appointed Senor Ezequiel Zavala as the Governor's representative to watch over settlers there. Senor Zavala and his wife are shown below with their faithful burro, Fifirichi.

OLDEST RESIDENTS of Floreana at last reports were Heinz Wittmer, another German escapist, and his mate Margaret, comely young hausfrau who has borne two children to Wittmer in their island retreat. Rolf Hans, in his father’s arms, above, was the first white child born in the Galapagos. Harry Wittmer, born of an earlier marriage, is seen in shorts and sandals. Ingeborg Floreana, in her father’s arms, below, is the couple’s second child, born April 18, 1937. Such isolation affords no doctors, nurses or even midwives so Wittmer aided his pretty wife in her confinements. The children are normal and healthy.

MODERN COMFORTS are not lacking in the Wittmer household high on the semi-tropical slopes of Floreana. But the accoutrements of civilization are al most wholly due to generosity of visiting voyageurs. The Wittmers, however, have worked tirelessly to improve their condition of living. They have a stone house and wonderfully productive gardens. To visitors they seem happy, al most to the point of complete contentment. At right they are seen in their tropi cal plantation. They grow many varieties of fruits and vegetables.

218

NEWEST RESIDENTS of the jungle on Floreana’s heights are the Americans, Elmer Ains- ley Conway and his wife, Frances, who left California to take up an adventurous exist-

ence in the Galapagos in May, 1937. Conway was a newspa- per man and writer of fiction. His wife formerly taught school in Redlands, Calif. They cleared an acre of ancient citrus jungle and set up housekeeping in a tiny shelter. In January, 1938, they appeared happy with their lot and determined to win ex- istence in the open.

221

PARA DATS

ie HEIGHTS of Floreana are almost continually bathed in swirling mists. Rainstorms are rare. When the mists become heavier than usual and the wind blows, the storms are known as garuas. Mists veil the equatorial sun. Chill waters of the great Humboldt Current cool the air and then it seems incongruous that one could become so miserably cold just under the equator. Fortunately the wet season is short.

Were it not for the moisture of the gartias and the ever-present mists, the Galapagos would be uninhabitable. In truth some of the islands and islets are totally devoid of fresh water. These support only scanty desert life. At lower altitudes, to which the mists rarely descend, all the islands are desert-like. Some are so thickly grown with desert scrub as to be almost impenetrable. Small wonder that the Galapagos have hardly been explored at all!

On the higher mountain slopes one finds a different world. Moisture is sufficient to support dense tropical vegetation. Some of the islands boast enormous hardwood trees. There are jungles of tropical and semi-tropical fruit trees. Mosses, lichens and other epiphytic plants typical of the rain forests are to be found in pro- fusion. Orchid-like bromelias in season flower overhead. Ancient citrus groves at blossoming time shed their perfume on the breeze.

Peaks and high mesas of the mist-laden islands collect enough moisture to create a few straggling springs of water and these pro- vide means for residents to irrigate their gardens. It is possible to grow almost any vegetable or fruit in different locations, particu- larly on Charles and Chatham Islands.

It was in such a setting that the isolationists of Floreana sought happiness and release from civilization. They could count on the climate and the processes of nature to keep them alive, but human frailty brought tragedy to live among them. Jealousies and thievery promoted hateful strife. None were bound by rules of conduct to which they were accustomed in communal life. Each tried to create his own world in a space too small for any such experiment, even though there is a vast expanse of land.

How the Baroness von Wagner struck upon the name Hacienda Paradaiso never was explained. Probably it was suggested by one of her masculine aides. They were not scholarly. Doubtless it was intended to convey the idea of a sort of paradise, but the Spanish

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for paradise is paraiso. Perhaps the extra “da” became an imperious fetish. The Baroness was a forceful, colorful non-conformist. Whether her claim to the Viennese nobility was well founded, those who knew her best found no occasion to question her. In the eighteen months of her reign she succeeded in focusing the attention of an incredulous world on a tiny dot in the Pacific.

Just what she really thought and felt and did during that brief but hectic time on Floreana may never be known, for the erstwhile Empress of the Galapagos left no memoirs. Whatever accounts have been written have been colored by jealousy or hate, or based upon misinformation. She arrived at Postoffice Bay with her little entourage on October 15, 1932. The Baroness and Philippson vanished unaccountably about March 28, 1934. Mystery still veils their fate.

There seems to be no question in the minds of those nearest the picture but what these two were slain. What facts are known could add up to nothing else. But one cannot be too certain of death without being able to produce the corpus delicti. Those who possessed real facts are dead. Lorenz died of starvation and thirst on Marchena Island in flight from Floreana. Dr. Ritter died in agony at Friedo four days after the finding of the bodies of Lorenz and Nuggerood, but at the time he had no knowledge of their fate.

Cold, silent, relentless, the great Humboldt Current wrote finis to the saga when it swept to his death the only man who knew intimately life as it was lived at the Hacienda Paradaiso. In a little packet beside the body of Lorenz were faded letters and notes, inscribed in German. These were turned over at a later date to the German consular authorities. Whether they contained any secrets has not been divulged.

In the capitals of South America the Galapagos Islands hold as much of mystery and intrigue as anywhere else in the world. The archipelago straddles the equator far beyond accustomed lanes of shipping. Sometimes excursions to the Galapagos are promoted in Guayaquil, Lima or Panama. Occasionally ’round-the-world liners essay the voyage to satiate the curiosity of passengers.

Frequent visits of Allan Hancock Expeditions to the archipelago have been devoted to scientific exploration, but even scientists find interest in such amazing human affairs.

222

SQUARE-RIGGED SCHOONERS still frequent the South Pacitic,

plying waters of the Humboldt Current and sometimes scooting around Cape Horn as they did in the days of the buccaneers

Above is the Tellus at anchor in the harbor at Callao, Peru

Callao is the principal port on the west coast of South America

serving the metropolis of Lima as San Pedro serves Los Angeles

MOST FAMILIAR SIGHT to all who visit Lima is this great equestrian statue of General José de San Martin which stands in the center of the plaza bearing his name. He is honored as the great military leader who liberated Peru from Spanish rule in 1821. Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro nearly three centuries earlier, on January 18, 1535, after that Spanish con- queror had tricked and put to death Atahualpa, last of the Inca kings.

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ERN LIMA impresses travelers as a city of marked con-

trasts. Four centuries of history and growth have contributed to varied architecture. The buildings above and below, fronting on the Plaza San Martin, are a modified French Renaissance of the colonial era. Crumbling ancient ruins of Lima’s early days may be found within a stone's throw of the city’s most modern

struct

ures. Lima is a shrine of history and art

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STURDY OXEN till rich soil in the valley of the Rio Rimac, often alongside up-to-date power tractors. Even in agriculture Peru

offers strange contrasts of the old and the new.

ANDEAN HEIGHTS shed their snow to form the Rio Rimac which supplies the water of life for Lima and its gardens. De- pendent on its rivers, the coast is almost rainless.

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CUSTOMS HOUSE at Callao is imposing enough to suggest the wealth of commerce that flows through the port. Center of

trade for all central Peru, Callao is a 1,000,000-ton harbor.

GRAVING DOCK at Callao adjoins new naval shipyard and arsenal, marking Peru's awakening to the needs of self-defense Her vast resources play a big part in world trade

ADOBE CONSTRUCTION reached an impressive stage in Lima at the time of the erection of her great bull ring. Immense arches above support part of the grand stands and serve to illustrate the art of utilizing mud in architecture. The President's box, below, is done in regal splendor with much gold leaf

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229

MOST PICTURESQUE area in Lima is the open-air market place where the old clings to the new with undying traditions. This is the native feria or fair, which in spirit corresponds to the periodical county fairs of the w United States of America. In reality it is just a market place for the display and

sale of wares, but Peruvians make a game of it. To them, bargaining is half the fun. Scenes

on this and the following page depict the spirit of the pla ich is mostly

gay, rarely serious. One does not hurry the storekeeper here for his pride and his fun are more important to him than any sale. He clings to the carnival spirit of his forebears.

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BIRD ISLANDS OF PERU have proven a tremendous source of wealth to the nation though the government was tardy in assuming control of their operation. The guano industry has been developed chiefly on a dozen of the larger islands. Above is the great modern lighthouse on Lobos de Afuera, one of the most northerly of the chain. Countless millions of marine birds nest on the barren, rocky islands which thrust their peaks skyward from the vast depths of the Pacific. An ideal climate is manufactured by the chill Humboldt Current which sweeps out of the Antarctic along the southwesterly shores of South America to dissipate itself in the equa- torial mid-Pacific. Rain is unknown and the deposits of birds pile up year after year, almost pure guano and a perfect fertilizer.

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MILLIONS OF BIRDS cover the islands when they are not away feeding at sea. The ocean is alive with anchobetas, small fishes, on which marine bird life is totally dependent. Should the balance of nature reduce the available food supply, the birds and Peru’s great industry would suffer. When the birds are at home the islands loom black on the horizon. And when most of the birds are away feeding, the guano-covered islands are white as snow in the sunlight. On the opposite page thousands of guanayes, Phalacrocorax bougainvillei, are so dense among mound-like nests that one could not walk among them.

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ADULT PELICAN with a broken | wing found on Lobos de Afuera island in starved condition was rescued and nursed back to health by Karl Koch, ornitholo-

gist of the expeditions.

BABY ALCATRAZ ait left is larger and heavier than a full grown domestic goose. Before these pelicans acquire adult plumage they often are heavier than their parents. Parent birds feed them well until the young are able to fly to sea and feed themselves. Above, and below, are young and adult Pele- canus thagus, an exotic species of peli- can gaudily colored and somewhat larger than the common California brown pelican. On the opposite page are terraced sides of North Guanape Island, with hosts of guanayes at rest for the night.

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GUANO PRODUCERS of the Bird Islands of Peru are chiefly guanayes, piqueros and alcatraces. Perhaps they are better known, respectively, as cormorants, boobies and pelicans. On the opposite page are baby and half-grown pelicans, Pelecanus thagus. Above an adult piquero, Sula variegata, is feeding her downy nestlings. The process, as with most birds, is that of regurgitation. Hungry young birds usually thrust their beaks down the throats of parent birds and help themselves. The piquero is a species of booby bird having variegated plumage. Below is a close-up of three downy stage nestlings.

WISTFUL INNOCENCE is expressed by this fuzzy young pi- quero languishing for a meal. Parental fidelity and responsi- bility are reputed to be absolute among these marine birds. Though the bird islands may be black with millions of birds, the parent birds never fail to find their own young and often battle fiercely to keep other youngsters from stealing food. On two visits to the bird islands of Peru the Hancock expeditions have accumulated excellent motion picture records.

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SEA LIONS congregate in great rookeries alone of Peru for the whelping and breeding season

the south coast

during January

or early February. The species is unknown in northern waters nboldt Current

shaggy manes,

being peculiar to the region cooled by the Hu The males have enormous necks and heads,

and sharp fangs which give them a leonine appearance. They

even roar somewhat like lions of the veldt. A

Otaria byronia may weigh 1200 pounds

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BOULDER STREWN beaches outside Port San Juan, Peru, about fifteen degrees south of the equator, are the usual breeding ground of the Peruvian sea lions. The mating season follows the whelping season almost immediately. Huge males are fighting continuously with ambitious intruders and manage to hold their harems together only by strength and stratagem. One great bull may have as many as twenty females about him while other lovelorn males languish in the background. Again, a single pair may be seen in the rookery. The aver- age harem contains five or six females. Fidelity usually is limited to a season.

MOTION PICTURES of the Peruvian sea lion rookeries are eas

to obtain for the animals pay little attention to the inv man. But it takes plenty of manpower to obtain speci of being brought back for exhibition in the San Dieg

cal Gardens. As illustrated above, the males are m1

than the females and the latter are somewhat larger than

California sea lion common along the North Pacific pup is shown at the extreme right

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ENORMOUS BULL of the species is shown above, his shaggy hide ripped and torn by the gashes of repeated battles.

SHELTERING ROCKS of the extremely rough coastline afford ihe rookeries protection from the turbulent open sea.

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ROPING AND NETTING of a great bull sea lion and a female of the species is illustrated in the photographs opposite and above. This work is naught to the task of hauling them up a precipitous cliff

LIFELESS TERRAIN of Point San Juan is evidenced in this photograph as a caged female sea lion and her pup are hauled over the brow of a steep cliff on an improvised sled. There is no vegetation on this rainless plateau above the sea lion rookeries. But there is life in the air for immense condors soar down from the heights of the Andes, 200 to 300 miles away, to prey on sea lion colonies during the whelping season. The great condor below had a wing- spread of nine and one-half feet.

247

PACMAG AME

eu along the coastal planes of Peru are the crumbling ruins of ancient cities which symbolize the rise and fall of great civilizations in prehistoric times. Some date back hundreds or even thousands of years. From artifacts left by the people archaeologists have been able to reconstruct bits of history and depict various cultures illuminating to modern man.

Not the least of these ancient centers of population was Pacha- camac, on the banks of the Rio Lurin south of Lima, great cosmo- politan capital of present-day Peru. Built atop a rounded hill overlooking the mouth of the river and the broad Pacific ocean, Pachacamac primarily was a massive temple of the sun, named after a solar deity. On nearby slopes and dunes lay the squat homes of thousands of people.

Today the site is littered with skulls and skeletons, bits of shattered pottery and fragments of artifacts of which graves have been divested. Treasure seekers and ghouls have done most of the digging, but sufficient intelligent work has been done to give scientists an insight into the life and customs of a forgotten age.

Pachacamac was recognized as a supreme deity among the Chimu and ancient peoples of the central coastal region of Peru. Legend has it that he was a son of the sun. More than likely this was an Inca version of an older legend. The evidence is that Pachacamac was regarded as the founder of agriculture. From Quechua the name is interpreted to mean “soul of the universe.” Originally the Quechua language was not spoken along the Peru- vian coast, but it became the official tongue of the Inca empire.

Archaeological opinion is that Pachacamac was merely a local variant of the greater deity

Viracocha whom ancient Peruvians believed in as a creator god. Viracocha, according to legend, created the world and peopled it, filled the sea with fish and gave to each animal its attributes. He also created the sun, moon and stars, and caused thunder, lightning, rain and hail.

Among the earliest inhabitants of South America agriculture was unknown, so Pachacamac must have arisen as a deity at some rather advanced stage of culture.

When early man wearied of a nomadic hand-to-mouth exist- ence and discovered the comfort, convenience and security of agri- culture he had to devise tools to till the soil. Crops called for storage so he began to make vessels. More or less permanent resi- dence in a given locality called for shelter and he began to erect homes. The practice of agriculture afforded him seasonal leisure which was turned to inventiveness.

Other nomads watched and copied these developments. Out of farming, community life began. Competition in the improvement of conditions of living evolved. Leadership emerged. Culture arose. Successive peaks and valleys of culture can be interpreted in terms of superiority and inferiority.

From the golden age of Inca supremacy in South America the sequence of cultures can be traced backward an estimated two thousand years. Authorities differ, but it is generally agreed that man inhabited the New World more than ten thousand years ago, possibly as much as twenty thousand years ago. There are tre- mendous gaps of many centuries in the reconstruction of history. Several of the most advanced civilizations which have been de- ciphered seemingly emerge full-blown, though they must have developed very slowly over vast periods of time.

Along the coast of Peru the oldest civilizations are supposed to be Early Chimu, Early Nasca and Ancoén. The ruins of Pachacamac reflect a little of each of these cultures which places it as of later date. More importantly Pachacamac gives evidence of pronounced Inca influence. Inca civilization emerged at Cuzco and spread by conquest throughout Peru and Ecuador.

A handful of Spaniards slew the last of the Inca kings and their empire collapsed some four hundred years ago, but traditions of the sun-worshippers live on.

248

CRUMBLING WALLS of Pachacamac once loomed in mighty ramparts atop a rounded hill overlooking the broad valley of the Rio Lurin and vast expanses of the blue Pacific. Pachacamac was an enormous temple of the sun erected to honor an ancient deity of that name. It is freely translated from the Quechua to mean ‘Soul of the Universe.”

MASSIVE BUTTRESSES of adobe brick still retain some semblance of their original shape for the region is almost rainless and the only erosion is due to sun and wind. From the rocky islet in the distance the ancient coastal Indians quarried rock which was used in some foundations of the temple as shown be- low. Adobe bricks were laid atop the stones.

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BURIAL GROUNDS at Pachacamac are littered with thousands of skulls and

skeletons excavated during recent centuries.

Even so a previously untouched

grave is found occasionally, as below. The ancient burial mat, woven in the shape of an urn closed at the top, contained three skeletons, apparently those of parents and child. Fine fabric wrappings were still partly intact

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INCA INFLUENCE is seen in this adobe structure, obviously much more recent than the earlier construction at Pachacamac. While there seems to be some disagreement among authorities as to the age of Pachacamac, it may well spread over a period of 1500 to 3000 years ago. It is certain that the ancient coastal Indians first came under the influence of the Quechuas of the Andes, whose language later was the official language of the Inca Empire. All, in one form or another, were sun-worshippers.

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253

PERUVIAN MUMMY stripped of burial wrappings as it appears in the ex- hibit of artifacts in the National Museum at Lima, Peru. The skull is capped with plates of gold, linked together after the fashion of medieval coats of mail. A heavy necklace of beads, gold chain and teeth, rests upon the shoulders. There are two vessels of copper and hide, one beneath the left arm, and one between the legs. All who died in ancient times in this region were buried in a sitting position. Sometimes the bodies were placed in urns.

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NATIONAL MUSEUM at Lima, Peru, is the world’s finest treasure-house of Pe- ruvian artifacts. It is widely known as the Inca Museum, for it reflects the art of the Incas. Its rarest treasures, however, date back centuries before the era of the Inca kings. Some students place the earliest culture of Peru as far back as ten thousand years. At any rate, Peru developed the highest culture on the South American continent, including arts long since forgotten. Ancient textiles and figurines in the National Museum are shown on the opposite page.

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REMARKABLE EXAMPLES of ancient Peruvian pottery are shown in the accompanying photo- graphs from the National Museum. Figures and decorations were given an extraordinary real- ism which did not often affect utility. Archaeol- ogists have discovered the use of as many as nine distinct shades of color on a single piece of pottery. Ceramics of many known ages in Peru contribute to knowledge of the rise and fall of ancient civilizations—the development and dec- adence of art.

257

ROB H MDH

ee nestles in the foothills of the towering Andes of Ecuador, a city of sharp contrasts and of colorful char- acter. It is a sparkling jewel set in the rough-hewn diadem of an ancient empire of the Inca kings.

Austere in the distance, Mount Chimborazo rises in snow-clad majesty to an elevation of 20,468 feet, the loftiest peak in this vast land of fearful heights and tortuous grades. On either side her snows feed sparkling streams which descend to gurgle through dank tropical jungles. But aloft is the land of the Children of the Sun.

Clinging to traditions of a forgotten age the Quechua Indians live among the mountain fastnesses of Ecuador and Peru in much the same fashion as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago. They till the soil of fertile two-mile-high valleys and broad rolling plains; graze their flocks amid the hills; and hold themselves aloof from the encroachment of modern civilization.

Yet the proud Quechuas invade Riobamba by the thousands every Saturday. That is their market day; the traditional day of their feria which corresponds in a way to a midwest county fair. No able-bodied, self-respecting Indian would miss the weekly event if he could help it, for then the carnival spirit reigns.

Perhaps the weekly market day is a relic of the ancient past. The Quechuas have outlived the rise and fall of successive civiliza- tions. Theirs was the language of the Inca empire which spread its gilded influence from Colombian borders to the pampas of the Argentine. They never were conquered, for they did not fight. When Francisco Pizarro destroyed the last of the Inca kings he merely effaced leadership and the Indians returned to their ancient ways, tolerating but never acknowledging Spanish rule.

As many as twenty thousand Indians may crowd their way into Riobamba on market day. Most of them walk. Rather, they trot, for it is a peculiarity of the people that they shuffle along as though always in a hurry. And some cover incredible distances in a short time. Many travel as much as fifteen or twenty miles with heavy burdens on their backs, taking their goods to market. Rarely do they ride. Women never do. If the family boasts a burro or llama, it will always be the man who rides. Usually the beasts are burdened with products of the soil on their way to market. Enroute home- ward, aman may ride. Like women, the children walk.

Riobamba boasts a large assortment of market places, the prin- cipal one being the great square which accommodates the grain market. Indians carry their grain to the city in great bags, which may weigh eighty to one hundred pounds. Reaching the square they open the bags to display the grain, offering small quantities for sale for a pittance. This is more fun than peddling the whole bag at once to a wholesale buyer. The Quechuas love to haggle.

On other squares or vacant lots will be fruit and vegetable markets, places where livestock is sold either butchered or on the hoof, a hide market, textile market, clothing market, hat market, pottery market—dozens of booths or squares where one may buy or sell anything from necessities to trinkets.

Skilled in primitive arts the Quechuas manufacture fine home- spun fabrics from vicufia, alpaca and llama wool, as well as that of domestic sheep and goats. They are far more interested in the prod- ucts of their own domain than they are in the flimsy goods or fancy gadgets of civilization’s machine age.

Ponchos woven by hand of homespun wool are universally worn by the Quechuas, young and old. They serve as overcoats, rain capes, sun shades and sleeping robes. No matter what the tem- perature the Indians never are without them. Purchases are secreted in the folds of the garment or packed in a length of cloth slung across the shoulders. Hats too, area fetish. The natives make their own of hand-beaten felt.

Highland hat makers have never reached the pinnacle of art in manufacture that has been achieved by lowland Indians who weave the so-called Panama or “‘jipijapa” hats worn by cosmopolites throughout the world. Perhaps the eternal struggle for sustenance in the high country has provided the Quechuas little leisure time for development of ancient arts. Their forebears knew the secret of tempering copper, but the Quechuas have lost much simpler arts.

Habits and customs of these primitive peoples have been re- corded at length by historians and archaeologists but they have never been fully portrayed; much less understood. The interest of Allan Hancock Expeditions in the Quechuas has been wholly pic- torial, and excellent color films of a market day in Riobamba have been accumulated for educational purposes. The intent is to encour- age further investigation into subjects of scientific import.

258

59

MARRIAGE CUSTOMS among the Quechuas

make a wife the servitor of the family. In hun-

dreds of years the routine of existence has changed but little. This brave and his wife posed on a roadside near Riocbamba

261

JEWELED HANDS of a typical Quechua matron are adorned with native hand-beaten silver rings set with uncut precious stones after the fashion of the ancients. Her expression is char- acteristic of her undying race.

QUECHUA WOMEN toil ceaselessly with their hands. With phenomenal dexterity they twirl slender spindles balanced with whorls of graven stone or precious metals, spinning wool from primitive distaffs. Their garments are homespun. Long belis, which usually encircle the waist several times, bear intricate patterns and are highly prized for their beauty and symbolism.

THATCHED HUTS dot the plains of the Andean plateau around Riobamba where thousands of Quechuas live today in much the same fashion as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago. To the casual visitor it seems an unchanging world. But the Quechuas have known heights of successive civilizations and the depths of disorganization and despair. They struggle on through generations, persevering in privation; a stolid, patient, stalwart people, highly skilled in simple primitive arts.

264

265

COBBLE-STONED STREETS of Cajabamba, Ecuador, grow dusty from the ceaseless tread of barefoot Quechuas. Narrow lanes of larger, flat stones form the footpaths which are worn smooth. Even though buildings go modern in the larger An- dean centers of population, the countryside is primitive and customs change but little.

BURDEN BEARERS of amazing strength and endurance, the Quechuas go to market carrying huge earthen ollas, bags of grain, ricks of firewood or any salable product which affords them excuse to visit the city on the day of the feria, which is their market day. In Riobamba the carnival day is Saturday. At such times there may be 20,000 Indians in the city. Like a midwest county fair, it is an event the natives would not miss

for anything. Some travel fifteen or twenty miles afoot.

266

267

QUECHUA MOTHER and babe display In

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TINY TERROR of the Toros is this little tike who wields a mean whip on the rump of a clumsy bovine en route to market in Riobamba, Ecuador. Just like his Quechua Indian father, the lad wears a native-made sombrero and poncho. H

heavy burro whip with as much dexterity as h

“*

obamba on market di

below. At left is an array of typical roadside lunct

it

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GRAIN MARKET in Riobamba as seen from window overlook- ing the great square is one of the most colorful scenes to be found in the Ecuadorian highlands. Indians tote their huge bags of grain to market, usually on their backs. From the opened bags they sell small quantities of grain to bickering cus- tomers who usually stow their purchases in a fold of their pon-

chos. On the opposite page are eloquent illustrations of the burden bearers and their method of carrying heavy loads on their backs.

Sik eeL SCE,

* i * < *] «

MASCULINE TYPES found among the proud Quechuas in the moun- tainous regions are shown here. Note that every male carries a burro whip somewhere about his person. These are their only weapons and the men are amaz- ingly adept with them.

is) ~I

MODERN BUILDINGS line the main thoroughfare in the busy metropolis of Riobamba, a rapidly growing commercial center on the trans-Andean railway which connects the seaport of Guayaquil and the Ecuadorian capital, Quito. Below are typical Indians

-—|

PARAMO GRASS on the back of this shaggy burro insulates a pack of snow from the heights of Chimborazo which will be sold for a pittance in Riobamba and used to make a sort of snow ice cream. The grass will be used to weave sandals or belts Probably the woman's husband will ride the burro on the home- ward trail. She will walk.

79

THATCHED HUTS with adobe-walled courtyards and fences of native cactus nestle beside a tile-roofed barn of modern adobe construction in the countryside near Cajabamba. The name is translated to mean box plain. Riobamba means river plain Eucalypti towering above native trees probably were importe from the Antipodes, as were those common in California.

PERPETUAL SNOWS cap Andean heights about the broad val- leys and rolling plateaus where ihe Quechuas carry on their efforts at primitive agriculture. Above is a typical farmyard, with pigs, chickens, cattle, burros, and dogs in evidence. The burro, brought into service as a burden-bearer by the Spanish, is rapidly replacing the llama in this region, although the llama was a domesticated animal in the earliest known times.

280

AN ESKIMO IGLOO is suggested by the low tunnel-like en- trance to this rounded hut, windowless and doorless. Bundles of reeds beside the entry are of the kind used in the earliest days for the making of canoe-like balsas in which the Que- chuas navigated lakes and streams of the high mountain coun- try. The reeds also are used to make floor mats called petates, for wall coverings and for pallets on which they sleer

No ie.e) 4

STRANGE WARES often are seen on the backs of traveling Quechuas along Andean highways. Above, at left, a typical butchered lamb to market. At right the bur-

mother carries a Below, a bald Indian lugs a pack of

den is hides and gras: hides which may be made into chaps

28:

QUECHUA MAID of the Tixan area prov strangers from afar seek her photograph tive of the far east, she covers mo her poncho, a custom prevalent throi

7 and retiring as

lanner sugges- © with a fold of

RARE” SELES gsr

Rae ace ea

SCENES IN GUAMOTE on these pages tel

life and surroundings of the Children of t

opposite comprises a community

comes a sort of crossroads of the

plains country. Ancient Pipe

their way to market, are constructed

l

PIGTAILS AND PIGLET create a picture which seems to typify the youth of a vast, picturesque land. The little girl is tending the young porker by standing on its leash, while her parents dig for potatoes in the field nearby. So-called Irish potatoes are not Irish at all but originated in the highlands of South America. The tubers were taken to Europe by Spanish conquistadores and after some two hundred years suddenly flourished under Irish cultivation, ultimately spreading throughout the civilized world as a principal article of human diet.

OMEN ES

DUDTEMTS

iN TRODUGCTITON PAGE I

Marine exploration comes of age and moves into a home of its own

BIOGRAPHY PAGE 5

A pioneer heritage leads to examination of frontiers of knowledge

LAB REAP LTS PAGE 15

Inspiration rises from a natural treasure house of paleontolo ey

EXPEDITIONS PAGE 35

Zeal tempered by experience evolves the achievement of an ideal

FOUNDATION PAGE 53

An institution which stands as the lengthening shadow of one man

MUS TE PAGE 59

In the cosmos of cultural things, a talent for self-expression

SANTA MARIA PAGE 65

Inherent love of the soil is concentrated on the valley of gardens

AW XML VARY PAGE 83

The Velero Il, fitted out with devices most useful to scientists

EQUIPMENT PAGE 97

For the recording of important data, a multiplicity of instruments

GUADALUPE PAGE 127

Home of ponderous sea elephants from which man has learned much

WAVE AZ, PAGE 141 Outpost of Mexico, La Paz lies af the gateway of the Sea of Cortés

GALAPAGOS PAGE 179

A vast, mysterious volcanic archipelago which straddles the equator

GALAPAG OS HIST OR Y PAGE 193

A rendezvous for adventuresome S paniards and swashbucklin & pirates

FLOREANA PAGE 207

The story of a modern philosophical Robinson Crusoe and his mate

PARADAISO PAGE 221

An account of the imperious self-styled Empress of the Galapagos

PACHACAMA€ PAGE 247

Ruins of an ancient civilization founded by worshippers of the sun

RIOBAMBA PAGE 257 Mecca of the Quechuas, Children of the Sun, in the Andean highlands

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Allan Hancock Gollege af Aeronautics 76-81 Allan Hancock Ensemble 36, 59-64 Allan Hancock Foundation for

Scientific Research . val, A, Gy, BHA, key, BS)

Amblyomma cajennense . . Se ome. gee Amblyrynchus cristatus . . ... . . 186 Angel de la Guardia Island . ... . 163 Annual cruises > Il, Ss, ah IAG Aiienncritish: Ss 4 i ine OS Archaeology . . . . tie 5 toned Mla Arctocephalus Galcmegaenets Ae SG RSH Art treasures . ie 54, 58 Astropecten ealiionnens faye me. esa) Astropecten regales . ..... . .. I01 Asiiopygaepulvinaicn 6) 2s. 2 2 2 Lig /Nupailitomyy er 4 5 6 5s Ss @ 2 Em, Ve Aviation . . ent Seen esol Axel, Prince of Denies Pe ere eet) LS inoigiter Inleraclots, . 5 = 6 6 488 4 a ge GE Blolersor CNA 45 us ath ee ot eee eo Baldescus General ye 2) 55 2 2) 2 93 Banks Bay, Albemarle Island. . . 182, 183 Blormmiatsfroyal Isjlermel 5 5 5 4 5 « « Jeo), ies! Bincloekisloncd ss) sue see SG iA BIOGRCOMyuE, Pema) ely rie eee, S) BISOnGrmE en, Baek an es, (oo Mia gue WLS Blackemurexcss 0h we ey ee ee te TM Bluecrab . . ey eee ie ree a eels Blue-faced pecby ed Nate wo ey OOO Blnegshrin pps ess ee eee LO Booby birds 170, 190-192, 237 leybuntodl jbtday |G a gs ee SB 6 he gy 6 EY BurnivislencdWReeia =a e. sas eeee to? Cactisie at eae ae) ees, See e150) moe: Cahuenga Pass... . Dee ge aes 8 Cajabamba, Ecuador. . Dee 26578279 €alcareoustalga, 97 4 5 5 = 5... 109 Callao@Pemias so seen 5) 2 ZA8 227 Callinectes bellicosus. . . . . . . . 108

Cannel >= = eg eal Oe Belt Camino de la Merle: El Saye? se. JuieZ Ceoimainoy oil Jel. 3 8 Gemellol 2 5 2 a ns bo Se oe eS Capedom-— + a eee ees eae 5 Capek scm aces a nn ESS (Comehivinad Gllewom® 4 2 - = 5 5 2 4 5 HIP Cordon’ ©. oA. 0) ee ee eee 154 Caniloecm Secu ne leanne AA, 48 Carmen Island . . ee A lt 26 Cartago Bay, Mierncel le Telend 183, 198, 201 Central America me i), 2a IAD CentralkCitya sf ls.) SeeeOb Centrechinus mexicanus ..... . 119 @ercmicseeees ise os © i Zo

Charles Island Chatham Island .

: 186, 183, 193, 207-222 . 180, 183, 194, 202-204

Children of the Sun ae . 247-286 (Siothoo meee ena 2. NES ee ee pT) Cito) oP ene er a Re ey Peete LST Caviclayeilles , 2 ne s os 6 a «1S Chumash Indians . . ais. ee (is) Clark, Dr. Hubert lovato 90, 173 Clipperniship as "4 ne wien 4 Club-footed sea urchin . ..... . 102 Clypeaster speciosus. . ..... . JIS Cocos Islands 5 5 9 WIENS Colombia je ee ed 41, 44, 174-176 CondormAncecrig se enn ne oO Conolophus sub-cristatus 185-186 Conway, Elmer Ainsley... .. . . 220 Sojsisileibhin. . “sb se A es a 4 oy wy GS Coreg a, eg. ee ee ee eat (7) (Cremolllbnayen 5 of 5 5 oe a 5 ee ow, lle) Crabs i - 99, 105-108, 113 Grewilorcd Brice. st ene er i er Greacustiunc cits asa nt aero “Cricket” Pe, 36, 39 Cromiussmuberes eee) ee Oe Cruise maps . . . —a er: 44, 120 Cypselurus Soild ate et ee men Daggetipnncnkisiasss m+ : : .. » ae29 Daira americana ..... . eg GY Daphne Islands . io. 2 5... See OSS Darien, Gulfof .. . 44 Darwin Bay, Tower felon ; 183, 187, 189, 191 Denmark, Prince Axel of : ero

Denton, Prof. William. ....... 16

Dictyosphaeria . .... . Ps UG, Dyimremmhier, 4 4 oo “5 o © < eel DiomedeawiniOreich | | ee ee ellos DiOTCIICIS Las NE Swe vache, |e etna eto eo Dinscloninvey WS Gs 6 eS ee ae toe SEU Dismecim Ikilemel =. 5 5 6 5 6 5 ol LEO, UBS FREIMMOEEGUS Soh 5 = 5 9 0 5 on 5 = WOE Ecligem, ‘Wnemncs A, 5 ¢ 6 o oe 6 ee AY Eduectionalpictures) 59-5 = ao = 35 Blephemtseals® (6: =. = 2°. 127- 136 Elephasimperator. .... .- 15, 24, 26-28 lEraclacianee! Isles » 5. 4 6 6 2 5 0 LV lEefuiljomarsian, Genesee’ 5 5 5 5 5 ee SW, Se leseomlicla Bieny 5 2 5 4 2 ow oe el UGS lEsjoviciin, Sere) Ieilewiel 5 5s 2 eo el iEmencloims Wabi se 5 5 5 5 5 o in o 0A fExgosicthiioms 5 5 o o o es o 9 16) WA0) ial

Explored territory 44, 45, 120, 121

GIS CSu ns aa tau Cen eth Selon Aiuto aS UP OS EGlcOnme mer tNoOl rca, thoes steers, no Seon Ferocactus sp. . Ra mee. illo) Field Museum of Netra History Se eur iss SIGNS gett ety ey he. | Tce SO wg LOO, Pisinancels Geclth 5 02 5's 2 6 » « ISS elissaaniavey, WW J, (een) fe 81 lOrecmiGhy Eee ea sie he 180, 193, 207- 222 IPlhpuave ok a Poo Cl Ea toe Sie treme dots IPlyinepaitsleteny ody Mo fe ee eee eae a ee NG) Fedeeulecl Guill! 5 5 2 3 6 5 a ak utelll ROSSIS was. 1 F eg te ed EY Fouquieria Seisndeee eee att yen eS) Pinerysie, IDire (CE Wile beer G5 be 6 6 oo ee) Mmecaicmmagnilicens 4) en. a los-90 RCA Om ee rte town. | tae oars VG mcs See. lethalasy Naroill dS}, Sa) hy Se sole oe cee eee ICY Galapagos albatross . . ee ee

Galapagos Archipelago . 2 37, 44, 86, 94, 99, 104, 107, 108, 109, 120, 125, 179-222

Calapageosiunsecll =n ee ee ee) center (Colloigecjos Cull, ~ ss 60 go ae oe Mall (Geilsiomrees liens 5 2 5 5 5 5 6 9 6 IGG Geller miei) 2 2 2 5 o 5 oe « oo ISS) Eoilororrcols josie 5 5 5 5 2 o 6 o ISP Galapagos tortoise. . . car 181 Gardner Bay, Hood Island. . . 182, 183, 196 Gemila, jicloasS 5 4 we o = « ee Wei U7) Gartas . . on igh, oe ng eae ety BOO Giant Crowd: Sloth ee ee fe ee Corgonculsicmcl a an Cee tS (Cirejosws CepswS 4 6 . sp 6 2 o 6 » oS,

GrequBeane i tttiaa sein te ieee et FEEL OSG

Greaiaion ei. st.) pees ee Ske ee US Guadcluperlslcncdiese semen ee 127-136 (Eiivommone) 5 5 awa eB & 5 a 6 PASS Guenoperdslonds see eee eC LeZ on Guayaquil, Ecuador . . em Sad ike;

Gulf of California . . 44, 95, 103, 105, 107, 108, ine 113, 116-121, 123, 126, 138-170 Gustaf Adolf, Crown Prince of Sweden . 28

lakoreneyorele WBlemnweyal, = 5 kk Gl Hancock Family. . Pee eh ace peas 5 Hancock, George Hem » ope), Hi, sy, La, CVE, SS, 43, 50, 53, 56, 61, 65, 77, 95,

166, 211, 229, 246, 250

| cncockshomesteacda smn aan eno emcee crkie seen ee eee IO lslentersyaiahiy Jen 5 5 es 5 Hehastereku bites) - ts oe an eee LS Elcemnenqullsis =) so cae, eS lal, (Alles =a" Ee Sete eee ne ere ol History of Los peels Se ead Se Ie eel Hollywood . . he 8-14 Hood Island . . Ad, 120, 180, ‘182, 183, 195, 196 Hughes, Hon. CharlesEvans .... . 29 Humboldt Current 2, 44, 180, 206, 214, 221, 223 231, 239

Hypoconcha panamensis) 5 3... )). id Iguanas. . pees &. 2. alle, MIR Imperial Elsohant ee eee ae re ew Sey ImeCs 2 eee a ee ANA ay, Py Inca Museum at Benue 2 oe See 253-256 Indefatigable Island 179, 183, 205, 206 Inttrocductionier, cect) 8 Rios. ees meee ] Isciselifslemc eels 0 25) een cee eemmelult ISO DOC Ee tat tar. 5) gh ee eS eranesulislonielS Qe 5s = ae = = 179-197 omar: Ileal 5 Seer 180-183 Kingsford-Smith, Sir Charles . . ... 77 KaSSinceoUci <n eat os) een nla Koch Remy aun ete ete 94, 235 i<lsllee, Nerd (Ciena) 5 5 6 2 a 5 ol ol AUS La Brea Pit fossil collections . . . . 15-32 Ecatib entre ECUCG Ons Nein tnn hiner nEnre nn nLe/IZ lyeravel epost 7 gg ~ SS), NG eR CIZa gs ue Ae eer see AS ee 139-148 Eanusheermanniy ys sue eee 16S ewvcitlowae ec. tan ite =n ae eee 22 (011 erasterclenes- <7 28 ex) Ge coe eS JMSinaXeniROeesURRon 6 2 6 6 6 o « o « Wa? [himicr ser es wa Een yee =o 0

Lobos de Afuera Island .

Lorenz, Alfred Rudolf Los Angeles History . L. A. Museum of History, Science and Art . Lysiosquilla maculata

Machairodus . 5 Macrobrackinn olfersii Macroscopy Mammalogist

Man o' War bird Manta, Ecuador Manta Ray . Manter, Dr. H. W. Mantis shrimp

Maps

Marchena end Matasana wood . Mazatlan

Merrick, Hugh Mexico .

Micro- sates Microscopy

Mirounga ahepaiteene j

Mithrax nodosus Monkey, Spider . Motion picture library Mt. Chimborazo . Mummy

Murex

Music

Musical oneete) Myers, Dr. Geo. S. . Mylodon

Mystery ship .

Narborough Island .

Nicaragua .

Nidorella armata

No. Guanape Island . Nuggerood, Trygve

231, 235 208, 212-215, 222 2, 8-14

14, 15, 21, 24-30 103

241, 222

eet) BV 44, 116-170 > Or, INS M7, Ws}, USE

257, 272, 273, 278 Zo8

_

- 5 a We) 0) 54, 96, 58, 60-63

. 44, 120, 183, 184, 200

National Museum of Peru

. 253-256 - 0, 44, 120 ZS 234, 235 214, 222

Oaxaca . 37,77, 184, 191 Ocotillo . : 149 Old Spanish and Mesean fometce Hebe ug 8 Ophioderma panamensis 102 Opuntia sp. 151 Otarta byronia 239 Pachacamac . 247-252 Pachycereus sp. . 154 Palmer, Dr. Edwin O. 96

Paquette, L. M. Paradaiso . Parasitologists Pasmino, José Pelicans

Pelicanus faces Pentidotea resecata Perkins, Cyrus B. Rentiianeer

Peru, Bird lines Bi Peruvian sea lions . Petroleum Springs . Phalacrocorax Bougamviler Philippson, Robert . Phyllonotus radix Piddocks

Piedras Negras . Pilumnus townsendi Piqueros é Pitahaya agria . Pleistocene mammals Pocillopora Porcellana mitra Port San Juan, Peru Port Utria, Colombia

Postoffice Bay, Charles Island .

Pottery . e Praying shrimp . : Puente, Comandante @arlog in, Puffer fish .

Pugettia dalli

Quechuas .

Rader, R. H.

Radio broadcasts “Radio”, wreck of Rancho El Progreso Rancho La Brea . Randallia americana . Rempel, Jack .

Right whale Riobamba, Ecuador Rio Lurin

Rio Rimac . .

Ritter, Dr. Karl Eaeden |

Roosevelt, Colonel Theodore .

Rosemary Farm . ; Rosemary Packing Conpany Ross, Judge Erskine Mayo . Route maps

Saber-tooth tiger Sally Lightfoot

95 , 2 88, 136 214

168, 235, 236

235-237 109 los 216-256 231-238 239-246 15-32 232

208, 212, 213, 222

111 111 205 - a lla 237, 238 152 oS a, 110 113 240

“Al, 44, 120, 174-176 - 183, 208, 216 247, 256, 260, 262, 266

103 202 113 105

247-286

Abs) 54, 60

> » Add 194, 202 » ey 105

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. 124 257-277 247, 249 2226 207-211 15, 28

. 64-7] 66, 74, 75 tae 6 44, 120

15-21, 26, 30 99, 114

Solitelcike 5 ie oe ee 2G San Benitos jelends Shae Oy ee kee ener ae) 3) San Cristobal . . 194, 202, 203 San Diego Zoological

Society 36, 128, 135, 136, 167, 241 Sanwimoan, Penus 2 = poe Se eA) San Martin, General lose a6 ee Say es Senite Bomacie: - . g « « s 8 o « < 6 Sorticr lhe aioli a. 4 9S song. or eta 5 Santa Maria . . Sn eee 64281 Santa Maria Valley, Baalvocrd : 66, 71-74 Smite: Moai. =< 6 2 lo 6 of © & Bb 6 IStonpil’e (Gmay: <A) ay ps ey enue a maT. from 5 Semmonnucllis wes. . . + . 1 6 » o Wes Schmitt, Dr. WaldoL.. . . El Ash, eels SA Schroeder, Dr. Charles R. .... . . 186 Sea elephants 127-136 Sea of Cortés . 138, 141

Seerbinelin., ¢ 3g o o 5 « > » » JP Seri Indians an 142, 155-162 Seymour Islands . 179, 183, 185, 186

Sincnie iia, - 2 5 5 6 5 3 8 o o o eS Sismnor Guegjoitie: . 5 - » oc 5 6 a o o les Siler Inet . 5 2 6 6 © o 5 so oo UU Silkolene: 5 o 0 6 6 oo 104 Smilodon californicus . , i: 21, 26, 30 Soeome Sooiny Wes 5 5, . 5 - 2 5 o Ig Sjociailsin Gomis 6 5 5 2 4 a 4 6 0 His Spanish explorers . : 64, 65 SPGNGeS ur Casee y 2 os ate eee. LG Star fishes . ow “99, 101, 102, 119 Siler gael 5 5 hb 6 eo See oe on OSE! Siismomnncains Clos , 5 2 5 5s 6 5 « de Swiler cloicinylletine: omemil . . 5 . . o » IS Sulavariegata .. . Ste ite cee ee A Sulivan Bay, James sland he ae emo Sweden Grown erimceol salen ZS Symphurus atramenitatus ..... . 199 Taft, William Howard. ... . 30 Tagus Cove eee 180, 183, 186 Ticlleious iamuniolitt . . . co o « c a o Io

ici oi eee eA a gee oe ae allo Technical Scuioment as Orne ie eT ljieleophnysicnisiulipcsmae an ee Oo lems 95. Vine taste Peel G Tiburén lewd ver 141, 155-162 WHCK ty en ats SRS ASP aie ce ee eee CZ: IWAGIEZGMCS fo" PSP a ye eke od Stee ae ] Tower Island . 180, 183, 187-192 lowersy@honlesw. yur. cane (oe et eenuOll Ireieiioyoner instore: 5 5 5 on sn nk ND Iinatiaticleel Items) nS Tropical lishesiegs Wee uy eee ee oe LOS Trypanosome rhodiense. .... . . 112 University of Southern California . Wii, Ul, StS, 50-60, 91

Weileleviese, ellis , 2. 2. 6 «9 2 « 2 o AS Westone chiscolloy 5 5 5 5 3 o s « o Iss Velerol, Veleroll . . . AAS eos9 Velero III reall, A, Sa, 36, 40°50, 77, 82-115, LZ es8, 7 ly US 98

Venezuela . ; 44, 120 Vermilion Sea 138, 141, 143 Villa Medici ese 5p ee, OY Viracocha . . ar TS eZ 48 von KleinSmid, Dr. Rule B. 2S ae 56 von Koerwin, Frau Dore Strauch. 207- 210, DED von Wagner, Baroness Eloisa Bosquet . 208, 212-222

Wade, Charles . . . Seat on ba ee Wegeforth, Dr. Harry M. 94, 130 \Wihilkemels, Ploniatt se Cll Wittmer Family . . : 208, 217-222 Worm-Miuiller, Mr. ana Migs, JN Gk ny 60S Wrangel Narrows . . o wll Wreck Bay, Chatham gland 183, 194, 202-204 Wiayldennienny, Anson ass.) enn U ZO Gley»SCHOMmEZeC UIC! ay atl enenEnEZO Ziesenhenne) EreduGiane |e enzo

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