1 : ^Marine ^toloQtcal Laboratory Libraru 'Vloods jiole, Massachusetts cVoyages • of • (Exploration Collected bi ^Newcomb (Thompson Montgomery (idoi-im) rPhila4elphia architect, nephevf of Ihomas Jiamson Montgomery {1615-1912), :t. Paul.— Party fent afljore.—ThJr Reeeptrjn by the Commanding Officer of the Port. — Meffage difpatched to the Commander at Bolcheretjk.— Arrival of the Difcovery.— Return of 8 the CONTENTS. the Me/fingers, froth the Commander. — Extraordinary Mode of tra- velling.—Vifit from a Merchant, and a German Servant belonging to the Commander. 171 CHAP. II. Scarcity of Provifions and Stores at the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. — A Party fet out to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretflc — Pajfage up the River Awatjka. — Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin.—Defcription of a Kamtfchadale Drefs Journey on Sledges. — Defcription of this Mode of Travelling. — Arrival at Natcheekin. — Account of hot Springs. — Embark on the Bolchoireka. — Reception at the Capital. — Generous and hofpitable Conducl of the Commander and the Garrifon.— Defcription of Bol- cheretjk. — Prefents from the Commander. — Ruffian and Kamtfchadale Dancing. — Affetling Departure from Bolcheretjk. — Return to St. Peter and St. Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who viftts the Ships.— Generofity of the Sailors. — Difpatches fent by Major Behm to Peter/burg. — His Departure and Characler. 196 CHAP. III. Continuation ofTranfaclions in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. — Abundance of Ft flo. — Death of a Seaman belonging to the Refolu- tion — The Ruffian Hofpital put under the Care of the Ship's Sur- geons.—Supply of Flour and Cattle. — Celebration of the King's Birth-day. — Difficulties in failing out of the Bay. —Eruption of a Volcano — Steer to the Northivard. — Cheepoonfkoi Nofs. — Errors of the Ruffian Charts.— Kamtfchatjkoi Nofs— Olutorjkoi Nofs.— Tfchu- kotfkoi Nofs. — I/land of St. Laurence. — View, from the fame Point, of the Coafs of Afia and America, and the I/lands of St. Diomede. — Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. —Obftrucied by impenetrable Ice. — Sea-horfes and white Bears killed.— Captain Clcrke's Determination, and future Defgns. 22 S CONTENTS. C II A P. IV. Fruitlefs attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North JVefi.— Dangerous Situation of the Difovery. — Sea-horfcs killed. — Frefli Objlruclions from the Ice.— Report of Damages received by the Dif- covery. — Captain Clcrke's Determination to proceed to the South- ward.— Joy of the Ship's Creivs on that Occafon. — Pafs Serdze L'j/ien.—Rtum through Beerings Straits.— Inquiry into the Ex- tent of the North Eajl Coafi of Aft a. — Reafons for rejecting Midler s Map of the Promontory of the Tfcbutjki.— Reafons for believing the Coa/l does not reach a higher Latitude than 700 f North. — General Obfervations on the Impracticability of a North Eafi, or North JVc/l Paffage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean. — Compara- tive View of the Progrefs made in the Tears 1778 and lyjg- — Re- ' marks on the Sea, and Sea-coa/ls, North of Beerings Straits. — Hifiory of the Voyage refumed. — Pafs the Ifiland of St. Laurence. — The //land of Mednoi. — Death of Captain Gierke. — Short Account of his Services. 255 CHAP. V. Return to the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. — Promotion of Of- ficers.— Funeral of Captain Clerke. — Damages of the Difcovery re- paired Various other Occupations of "the Ships Creivs. — Letters from the Commander. — Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Ruffian Galliot. — Account of an Exile. — Bear- hunting and Fijh- ing Parties. — Difgrace of the Serjeant. — Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Vi fit from the Commander. — The Serjeant rein- filatcd. — A Rujjtan Soldier promoted at cur Requefl. — Remarks on the Dfcipline of the Ruffian Army. — Church at Paratounca. — Me- : do} Bear-bunting. — Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtfcha- dales. — Infcription to the Memory of Captain ( lake. — Supply of Cottle. — Entertainments on the EmprcjV 's Name Day. — Prefent from CONTENTS. Jrom the Commander.— Attempt of a Marine to defer t.— Work out of the Bay.— Nautical and Geographical Dfcription of Awatfka Bay. —Aflronomieal tables, and Obfervations. 283 CHAP. VI. General Account of Kamtfchatka.— Geographical Defcript ion.— Rivers. —Soil— Climate.— Volcanos.— Hot Springs.— Produttions.— Vege- tables.—Animals. — Birds.— FifJj. 3^5 CHAP. VII. General Account of Kamtfchatka continued — Of the Inhabitants. — Origin of the Kamtfchadales,—Difovered by the Ruffians.— Ab- ftrail of their Hi/lory.— Numbers— Prefent State —Of the Ruffian Commerce in Kamtfchatka —Of the Kamtfchadale Habitations and Drefs.—Of the Kurile Tflands.—The Koreki.—The Tfchutjki. 3 59 CHAP. VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings— Courfe to the South-ward, along the Coajl of Kamtfchatka.-Cape Lopatka.-P afs the //lands Shoomjka and Paramoufir.- Driven to the Eq/ltvard of the Kurilcs.— Singu- lar Situation with refpeel to the pretended Difcoveries of former Navigators— Fruit lefs Attempts to reach the Jflands North of Ja- pan.—Geographical Conclufions.—Viezu of tin Coajl of Japan.— Run along the Eafl Side.-Pafs tvoo Japnnefe Veffels -Driven off the Coajl by contrary Winds. -Extraordinary Effecl of Currents.- Steer for the Baffees.-Pafs large Quantities of Pumice Stone.— Difco- ver Sulphur Ijland.-Pafs the Pratas.—Jfles of Lema, and Ladron jfland.—Chinefe Pilot taken on board the Reflation -Jounutls of the Officers and Menfecured. 384 CHAP. IX. Working up to Macao.- A Chinefe Comprador. -Sent on Shore to vifi the Portuguefe Governor, -Effecls of the Intelligence we received Vol. III. a f'om CONTENTS. from Europe. — Anchor in the Typa — Pajfage up to Canton. — Bocca Tygris. — H'ampu. — Defcription of a Sampane. — Reception at the Englijh Faclory. — Injlance of the fufpicious Character of the Chlnefe. — Of their Mode of trading.— Of the City of Canton.— Its Size — Population — Number of Sampane s. — Military Force. — Of the Streets and Houfcs. — Vift to a Chinefe.— Return to Macao. — Great Demand for the Sea- otter Skins. — Plan of a Voyage for opening a Fur Trade on the Wefcrn Coaf of America, and prof ecuting further Difcove- rics in the Neighbourhood of Japan. — Departure from Macao. — Price of Provifions in China. 419 CHAP. X. Leave the Typa. — Orders of the Court of France refpecling Captain Cook. — Resolutions in confequence thereof— Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield Banks. — Pafs Pulo Sapata. — Steer for Pulo Condore. — Anchor at Pulo Condore. — Tranfaclions during our Stay. — Jour- ney to the principal Toivn. — Receive a Viftt from a Mandarin. — Examine his Letters. — RefrefJments to be procured. — Defcription, and prefent State of the IJland. — Its Produce. — An AJfertion of M. Sonne rat refuted. — Afronomical and Nautical Olfervations. 447 CHAP. XI. Departure from Pulo Condore.— Pafs the Straits of Banca. — Vieiv of the //land of Sumatra. — Straits ofSunda. — Occurrences there. — De- fer ipf ion of the I/land of Cracatoa. — Prince's Ifland.—Effecls of the Climate of Java. — Run to the Cape of Good Hope. — Tranfaclions there. — Defcription ofFalfe Bay. — Pajfage to the Orkneys. — General Reflulions. 465 APPEN- CONTENTS. APPENDIX, No. I. Tables of the Route of the Refolution and Difcovery, the Varia- tion of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage. ^ II. A comparative Table of Numerals, exhibiting the Affinity and Extent of Language, which is found to prevail in all the //lands of the Eajlern Sea, and derived from thatfpoken on th? Continent of Afia, in the Country of the Malay es. fronting 530 III. Vocabulary of the Languages of the Friendly I/lands. 531 IV. Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George's Sound. 542 V. Vocabulary of the Language of A/ooi, one. of the Sandwich I/lands. £40 VI. Table to fheiv the Affinity between the Languages fpoken at Oonalafhka and Norton Sound, and thofe of the Green~ landers and Efquimanx. ^4, VII. Table of the Variations of the Compafs, obferved by Captain Cook during his pafj'age from England to the Cape of Good Hope. See Vol. I. p. 49. 556 ERRATUM. JPage 13, for Plate No. LXI. rttut No. LX, VOYAGE T O T HE PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK V. Captain King's Journal of the Tranfa&ions on returning to the Sandwich I (lands. CHAP. I. Defcription of Karakakooa Bay. — Vafl Co?Kourfe of the Natives. — Power of the Chiefs over the inferior People. — Vift from Koah, a Priefi and Warrior. — The Morai at Kakooa defcribed. — Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook. — Qbfervatories ereEled. — Powerful Ope- ration of the 'Taboo. — Method of faking Pork in tropical Climates. — Society of Priefi s difcovered. — Their Hofpi- tality and Munificence. — Reception of Captain Cook. — Artifice of Koah. — Arrival of Terreeoboo, King of the Jfland. — Si?igular Ceremony. — Vifit from the King. — Returned by Captain Cook. ARAKAKOOA Bay is fituated on the Weft fide of the i779. iiland of Owhyhee, in a diftrict called Akona. It is )v^Il^ about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low Sunday »7- points of land, at the diftance of half" a league, and bearing South South Eaft and North North Weft from each other. Vol. 111. B On A VOYAGE TO On the North point, which is flat and barren, Hands the village of Kowrowa ; and in the bottom cf the bay, near a grove of rallcocoa-nut trees, there is another village of a more confidcrable fize, called Kakooa : between them, runs a high, rocky cliff, inacceffible from the fea fhore. On the South fide, t*he coafl, for about a mile inland, has a rugged ap- pearance; beyond which the country rifes with a gradual afcent, and is oveifpread with cultivated inclofures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations of the na- tives are fcattered in great numbers. The fhore, all round the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather; except at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine fandy beach, with a Moral, or burying-place, at one extremity, and a fmall well of frefh water, at the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the fliips, and lay in an additional fupply of water and provifions, we moored on the North fide, about a quarter of a mile from the fhore, Kow- rowa bearing North Weft. As foon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the fhore in afto- niflr.ng numbers, andexprcfTcd their joy by fingingandfhout- ing, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant gcflures. The fides, the decks, and rigging of both mips were foon completely covered with them; and a multitude of women anil boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came fwim- ming round us in flioals ; many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, was a young man, called Pareea, whom we foon perceived to be apcrlon of great authority. On prefenting himfelf to 2 Captain THE PACIFIC OGEAN. Captain Cook, he told him, that he was Jakanee * to the king ' '779- of the illand, who was at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four days. A few prefents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to our interefts, and he became ex- ceedingly ufeful to us in the management of his country-, men, as we had foon occafion to experience. For we had not been long at anchor, when it was obferved that the Difcovery had fuch a number of people hanging on one fide, as occafioned her to heel confiderably ; and that the men were unable to keep off" the crowds which continued prefling into her. Captain Cook, being apprehenfive that fhe might fufTer fomc injury, pointed out the danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their afliftance, cleared the fhip of its incumbrances, and drove away the canoes that furrounded her. The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people ap- peared, from this incident, to be of the moil defpotic kind. A fimilar inftance of it happened the fame day on board the Resolution; where the crowd being fo great, as to impede the neceflary bufinefs of the (hip, we were obliged to have recourfe to the afliftance of Kanccna, another of their chiefs, who had likewife attached himfelf to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he immediately ordered his countrymen to quit the velTel ; and we were not a little furprized to fee them jump overboard, without a moment's hefitation ; all except one man, who loitering behind, and (hewing fome unwillingnefs to obey* * We afterward met with feveral others of the fame denomination.; but whether it be an office, or fome degree of affinity, we could never learn with certainty. B 2 Kaneena 4 AVOYAGETO '779- Kancena took him up in his arms, and threw him into the January. v.. _.,— _i fea. Both thefe chiefs were men of flrong and well-pro- portioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleafing. Kaneena efpecially, whofe portrait Mr. Webber has drawn, was one of the fineft men I ever faw. He was about fix feet high, had regular and expreffive features, with lively, dark eyes j his carriage was eafy, firm, and graceful. It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruize ofT this ifland, the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairnefs and honefty in their dealings, and had not fhewn the flighted propenfity to theft ; which appeared to us the more extraordinary, becaufc thofe with whom we had hitherto held any intercourfe, were of the loweft rank, either fervants or fifhermen. We now found the cafe ex- ceedingly altered. The immenfe crowd of iflanders, which blocked up every part of the lliips, not only afforded fre- quent opportunity of pilfering without rilk of difcovery, but our inferiority in number held forth a profpect of efcaping with impunity in cafe of detection. Another cir- cumftance, to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the prcfence and encouragement of their chiefs ; for generally tracing the booty into the poffeflion of fomc men of confcqucnce, we had the flrongeft reafon to fufpect that thefe depredations were committed at their infligation. Soon after the Refolution had got into her ftation, our two friends, Pareea and Kancena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a prieft, and had been, in his youth, a diflinguifhed warrior. He was a little THE PACIFIC O C E A NT. a little old man, of an emaciated figure; his eyes exceed- *779« ° J January. ingly fore and red, and his body covered with a white le- prous fcurf, the effects of an immoderate ufe of the ava. Being led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his fhoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with him. Then ftepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a fmall pig, which he held in his hand, whilft he pronounced a difcourfe that lafted for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently repeated during our flay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many circumftances, to be a fort of religious adoration. Their idols we found always arrayed with red cloth, in the fame manner as was done to Captain Cook; and a fmall pig was their ufual offering to the Eaiooas. Their fpeeches, or prayers, were uttered too with a readinefs and volubility that indicated them to be according to fome formulary. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was fet before him ; but, like the reft of the inhabitants of the iflands in thefe Seas, could fcarcely be prevailed on to tafte a fecond time our wine or fpirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayly and myfelf, accompanied him on fliore. We landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud voice a fhort fentence, in which we could only diftinguifli the word Orono *. The crowd, * Captain Cook generally went by this name amqngir the natives of Owhyhee ; but we could never learn its precife meaning. Sometimes they applied it to an invifible being, who, they faid, lived in the heavens. We alfo found that it was a title be- longing to a perfonage of great rank and power in the ifland, who refembles pretty much the Delai Lama of the Tartars,, and the ecclefiaftical emperor of Japan. which ; AVOYAGETO liich had been collected on the fhore, retired at our ap- January. v ... ^.—.^ proach ; and not a perfon was to be feen, except a few lying proflrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. Before I proceed to relate trie adoration that was paid to Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this fatal iiland, it will be neceflary to dc- fcribe the Moral, fituated, as I have already mentioned, at the South fide of the beach at Kakooa. It was a fquare folid pile of flones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well paved, and fur- rounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the fculls of the captives, facrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the centre of the area, flood a ruinous old building of wood, connected with the rail, on each fide, by a ftone wall, which divided the whole fpace into two parts. On the fide next the country, were five poles, upward of twenty feet high, fupporting an irregular kind of fcaffold ; on the oppofite fide, toward the fea, flood two fmall houfes, with a covered communication. We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an eafy afcent, leading from the beach to the North Well corner of the area. At the entrance, we faw two lirge wooden images, with features violently diftorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, riling from the top of their heads ; the red was without form, and wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with a long beard, who prefentcd Captain Cook to the images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to that end of •the Morai, where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tliem were twelve images ranged in a femicircular form, an;l '779- before the middle figure, flood a high Hand or table, exactly 1 ,-—! refembling the JVhatta* of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of fugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread- fruit, plantains, and fweet potatoes. Koah having placed the Captain under this ftand, took down the hog, and held it toward him ; and after having a fecond time addrefled him in a long fpecch, pronounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him to the fcaffolding, which they began to climb together, not without great rifle of falling. At this time we faw, coming, in folemn proceffion, at the entrance of the top of the Moral, ten men carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced a few paces, they flopped, and proflrated themfelves ; and Kaireekeea, the young man above-men- tioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth, carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the Captain, and afterward offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with, the fame ceremony. Whilft Captain Cook was aloft, in this auk ward fituation, . fwathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping, his hold amongd the pieces of rotten fcaffolding, Kaireekeea - and Koah began their office, chanting fometimes in concert, and fometimes alternately. This laded a confiderable time ; at length KOah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain . defcended together. He then led him to the images before mentioned, and having laid fomething to each in a fneer- ing tone, fnapping his fingers at them as he palled, he brought him to that in the center, which, from its being * See Captain Cook's foimer Voyage. covered 1 A VOYAGE TO »779' covered with red cloth, appeared to be in greater eftimation January. than the reft. Before this figure he proftrated himfelf, and kifTed it, defiring Captain Cook to do the fame; whofuffered himfelf to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the other divifion of the Morale where there was a fpace, ten or twelve feet fquare, funk about three feet below the level of the area. Into this we defcended, and Captain Cook was feated between two wooden idols, Koah fupporting one of his arms, whilft I was defired to fupport the other. At this time, arrived a fecond procefTion of natives, carrying a baked hog, and a pudding, fomc bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vege- tables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea put himfelf at their head, and prefenting the pig to Captain Cook in the ufual manner, began the fame kind of chant as be. fore, his companions making regular refponfes. We ob- ferved, that after every refponfe, their parts became gra- dually fhorter, till, toward the clofe, Kaireekeea's confided of only two or three words, which the reft anfwered by the word Orono. When this offering was concluded, which lafted a quarter of an hour, the natives fat down, fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables, and break ihe cocoa-nuts; whilil others employed themfelves in brew- ing the ai'a; which is done, by chewing it in the fame manner as at the Friendly Iflands. Kaireekeea then took part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the Captain's race, head, hands, arms, and moulders. The ava was 3 then THE PACIFIC OCEAN, then handed round, and after we had tafted it, Koah and '7?9- January. Pareea began to pull the flefh of the hog in pieces, and to < — ~v — - put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his perfon ; but Captain Cook, who was ferved by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not f wallow a morfel; and his reluctance, as may be fuppofed, was not diminifhed, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. When this laft ceremony was finifhed, which Captain Cook put an end to as foon as he decently could, we quitted the Morai, after diflributing amongft the people fome pieces of iron and other trifles, with which they feemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted us to the boats, repeating the fame words as before. The people again re- tired, and the few that remained, proftratcd themfclves as we palled along the more. We immediately went on board, our minds full of what we had fcen, and extremely well fatisfied with the good difpofitions of our new friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies, with which we had been received, and which, on account of their novelty and Angularity, have been related at length, can only be the fubject of conjectures, and thofc uncertain and partial : they were, however, without doubt, cxprcflive of high re- fpect on the part of the natives ; and, as far as related to the perfon of Captain Cook, they feemed approaching to adoration. The next morning, I went on more with a guard of eight Monday »s. marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having or- ders to erect the obfervatory in fuch a fituation as might befl enable me to fuperintend and protect the waterers, and Vol. III. C the 1 \ VOYAGE TO the other working parties that were to be on more. As we were viewing a fpot conveniently fituated for this pur- pofe, in the middle of the village, Parcca, who was always ready to mew both his power and his good will, offered to pull down fome houfes that would have obstructed our ob- i'crvations. However, we thought it proper to decline this oiler, and fixed on a field of fweet potatoes adjoining to the Moral, which was readily granted us ; and the priefts, to prevent the intrufion of the natives, immediately confe- crated the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was inclofed. This fort of religious interdiction they call taboo ; a word we heard often repeated, during our flay amongtl thefc iflandcrs, and found to be of very powerful and cxtenfive operation. A more particular explanation of it will be given in the general account of thefc iflands, under the article of religion ; at prefent it is only neceflary to obferve, that it procured us even more privacy than we defired. No canoes ever prefumed to land near us ; the natives fat on the wall, but none offered to come within the tabooed fpace, till he had obtained our pcimifuon. But though the men, at our rcqueil, would come acrofs the field with provifions, yet not all our endeavours could prevail on the women to approach us. Prefents were tried, but without effect ; Pareca and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain ; we were invariably anfwered, that the Eatooa and Terreeoboo (which was the name of their king) would kill them. This circumftance afforded no fmall matter of amufement to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and parti- cularly of women, that continued to flock thither, obliged them almofl every hour to clear the vcfiel, in order to have room THE PACIFIC OCEAN, n room to do the necefTary duties of the fliip. On thefe oc- 1U9- cafions, two or three hundred women were frequently made \ v L> to jump into the water at once, where they continued fwim- ming and playing about, till they could again procure ad- mittance. From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us Tuefday i9. to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on fome other part of the ifland, nothing very material happened on board. The caulkers were fet to work on the fides of the lTiips, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and repaired. The faking of hogs for fea-flore was alfo a conftant, and one of the principal objects of Captain Cook's attention. As the fuccefs we met with in this experiment, during our prefent voyage, was much more complete than it had been in any former attempt of the fame kind, it may not be improper to give an account of the detail of the operation. It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flefh of animals by faking, in tropical climates ; the pro- grefs of putrefaction being fo rapid, as not to allow time for the fait to take (as they exprefs it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of the pickle. We do not find that experiments relative to this fubject have been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In his firft trials, which were made in 1774, during his fecond voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the fuccefs he met with, though very imperfect, was yet fufheient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. As the voyage, in which he was now engaged, was likely to be protracted a year beyond the time for which the mips had been victualled, he was under the neceflity of providing, by fome fuch means, for the C 2 fubfiftence iz AVOYAGETO '779- fubfiftence of the crews, or of relinquifhing the further January. -1 ° profecution of his difcoverics. He therefore loll no oppor- tunity of renewing his attempts, and the event anfwered his molt fanguine expectations. The hogs, which we made ufe of for this purpofe, were of various fizes, weighing from four to twelve flone*. The time of ilaughtering was always in the afternoon ; and as foon as the hair was fcalded off, and the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out; and, in the larger fort, the ribs alfo. Every piece then being carefully wiped and examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were handed to the falters, whilft. the flefh remained ftill warm. After they had been well rub- bed with fait, they were placed in a heap, on a ftage raifed in the open air, covered with planks, and prefTed with the heavier! weights we could lay on them. In this fituation they remained till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and the fufpicious parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of flrong pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken the fait, which was readily difcovered by the fmell of the pickle, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and the found pieces put to frefh pickle. This, however, after the precautions before ufed, feldom happened. After fix days, they were taken out, examined for the lad time, and being again ilightly prefTed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin layer of fait between them. I brought home with me fomc barrels of this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhcc in January 1779, and» was tailed • I4lb. by THE PACIFIC OCEAN. by feveral perfons in England about Chriftmas 1780, and '779 13 found perfectly found and wholefome *. I fhall now return to our tranfactions on fhore at the obfervatory, where we had not been long fettled, before we difcovered, in our neighbourhood, the habitations of a fo~ ciety of priefts, whofe regular attendance at the Moral had excited our curiofity. Their huts ftood round a pond of water, and were furrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees which feparated them from the beach and the reft of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retiremenr. On my acquainting Captain Cook, with thefe circumftances, he refolved to pay them a vifit; and as he expected to be received in the fame manner as before, he brought Mr. Webber wih him to make a drawing of the ceremony f. On his atrival at the beach, he was conducted to a facred building called Harre-wOrono, or the houfe of Orono, and feated before the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of the fame kind with thofe on the Moral. I was here again made to fupport one of his arms, and after wrapping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priefls, * Since thefe papers were prepared for the prefs, I have been informed by Mr. Vancouver, who was one of my MidShipmen in the Difcovery, and was afterward appointed Lieutenant of the Martin floop of war, that he tried the method here recom- mended, both with Englifh and Spaniih pork, during a cruize on the SpaniSh Main, fti the year 1782, and Succeeded to the utmofi of his expectations. He alfo made the experiment at Jamaica with the beef Served by the victualling office to the Ships, but not with the fame fuccefs, which he attributes to the want of the neceflary precautions in killing and handling the beafts ; to their being hung up and opened before they had fufEcient time to bleed, by which means the blood- veflcls were expofed to. the air, and the blood condenfed before it had time to empty itfelf; and to their being hard driven and bruifed. He adds, that having himfelf attended to the killing of an ox, which was carefully taken on board the Martin, he faked a part of it, which at the end of the week was found to have taken the fait completely, and he has no doubt would have Jcept for any length of time ; but the experiment was not tried. t-; See Plate,. Number LXI. i. madft. January. H A VOYAGE TO 9- made an offering of a pig with the ufual folcmnities. The pig was then ftrangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown into the embers, and after the hair was finged off, it a\ as again prefented, with a repetition of the chanting, in the manner before defcribed. The dead pig was then held for a ihort time under the Captain's nofe ; after which it was laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the performers fat down. The ava was then brewed, and handed round ; a fat hog, ready dreffed, was brought in ; and we were fed as before. During the reft of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on fliorc, he was attended by one of thefe priefts, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the people to pro- ftrate themfelves. The fame perfon alfo conftantly accom- panied him on the water, Handing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they im- mediately left off paddling, and lay down on their facestill lie had paffed. Whenever he flopped at the obfervatory Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their ap- pearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, £" the bay, and the natives either kept within their huts, or lay proftrate on the ground. Before the king left the Refolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and trade with the fliips as ufual ; but the women for what reafon we could not learn, ftill continued under the effe&s of the taboo \ that is, were forbidden to flir from home, or to have any communication with us. CHAP, 20 A V 0 Y A G E T O CHAP. II. Farther Accou?it of Tranfaclions with the Natives* — Their Ho/pit ality. — Propenfay to Theft. — Dcfcription of a Boxing Match. — Death of one of our Seamen. — Beha- viour of the Priejls at his Funeral. — The IVood Work and Images on the Morai pur chafed. — The Natives in- quifitive about our Departure. — Their Opinion about the Deftgn of our Voyage — Magnifcc?it Prefects of Ter- reeobco to Captain Cook. — The Ships leave the Ifland. — The Refolution damaged in a Galey and obliged to return. '779. rPHE quiet and inoffenfive behaviour of the natives » n_"a.r/- , J. having taken away every apprehenfion of danger, we juefday 26. jjj not iiefltatc to tru(t ourfelvcs amongft them at all times> and in all nutations. The Officers of both fhips went daily up the country, in fmall parties, or even fingly, and fre- quently remained out the whole night. It would be cndlefs to recount all the instances of kindnefs and civility which we received upon thofe occafions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, eager to offer every afllftance in their power, and highly gratified if their fervices were ac- cepted. Various little arts were praetifed to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran before, as we walked through their villages, and flopped us at every opening, where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one time, we were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or fomc other refremment under THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 21 under the fliade of their huts; at another, we were feated 1779- January * within a circle of young women, who exerted all their fkill > r-— ■* and agility to amufe us with fongs and dances. The fatisfaction we derived from their gentlenefs and hofpitality, was, however, frequently interrupted by that propenfity to Healing, which they have in common with all the other iflanders of thefe feas. This circumflance was the more diflrefling, as it fometimes obliged us to have re- courfe to acts of feverity, which we mould willingly have avoided, if the neceflity of the cafe had not abfolutely called for them. Some of their mod expert fwimmers were one day difcovered under the (hips, drawing out the filling nails of the fheathing, which they performed very dexteroufly by means of a fhort flick, with a flint flone fixed in the end of it. To put a flop to this practice, which endangered the very exiflence of the vefTels, we at firfl fired fmall fhot at the offenders ; but they eafily got out of our reach by diving under the fliip's bottom. It was therefore found neceffary to make an example, by flogging one of them on board the Difcovcry* About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both mips, fct out on an excurfion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of examining its natural productions* An account of this journey will be given in a fubfequenc part of our narrative. It is, therefore, only neceffary at pre* fent to obferve, that it afforded Kaoo a frefti opportunity of mewing his attention and generofity. For as f'oon as he was informed of their departure, he fent a large fupply of pro- vifions after them, together with orders, that the inhabit- ants of the country through which they were to pafs, fliould give them every afliilance in their power, And, to complete 9 the o2 AVOYAGETO the delicacy and difintcrcftednefs of his conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on to accept the fmallefl prefent. After remaining out fix days, our Officers returned, without having been able to penetrate above twenty miles into the ifland ; partly from want of proper guides, and partly from the impracticability of the country. WcJr.cf. 27. The head or" the Refolution's rudder being found ex- ceedingly fhaken, and mod of the pintles either loofe or broken, it was unhung, and fent on more, on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough repair. At the fame time, the carpenters were fent into the country, under conduct of fomc of Kapo's people, to cut planks for the the head rail work, which was alfo entirely decayed and rotten. Tho/fdaysg. On the 2'dth, Captain Gierke, whofe ill health confined him, for the mod part, on board, paid Terreeoboo his firft vifit, at his hut on fhore. He was received with the fame formalizes as were obferved with Captain Cook ; and, on his coming away, though the vifit was quite unexpected, he received a prefent of thirty large hogs, and as much fruit and roots as his crew could confume in a week. As we had not yet feen any thing of their fports or ath- letic exercifes, the natives, at the requcft of fome of our Officers, entertained us this evening with a boxing-match. Though thefe games were much inferior, as well in point of (Solemnity and magnificence, as in the fkill and powers of the combatants, to what we had feen exhibited at the friendly Iilands ; yet, as they differed in fome particulars, it may not be improper to give a fhort account of them. We found a vaft concourfe of people aflembled on a level fpot of ground, at a little diflance from our tents. A long fpacc was THE PACIFIC O C E A N. 23 T79- was left vacant in the midit of them, at the upper end of January, which fat the judges, under three ftandards, from which hung flips of cloth of various colours, the fkins of two wild geeCe, a few fmall birds, and bunches of feathers. When the fports were ready to begin, the fignal was given by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came forward flowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing their hands along the foles. As they approached, they frequently eyed each other from head to foot, in a contemptuous manner, calling fevcral arch looks at the fpectators, draining their mufcies, and uling a va- riety of affected geftures. Being advanced within reach of each other, they flood with both arms held out (traight be- fore their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed, They ftruck, in what appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full fwing of the arm ; made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an incli- nation of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided ; for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by accident, he was confidered as vanquished, and the victor exprefTed his triumph by a variety of geftures, which ufually excited, as was intended, a loud laugh among the fpectators. He then waited for a fecond antagonift ; and if again victorious, for a third, till he was, at lafl, in his turn defeated. A fingular rule obferved in theie combats is, that whilft any two are preparing to fight, a third perfon may Hep in, and choofe either of them for his antagonift, when the other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each other in this manner, before the match was fettled. When the combat proved longer than ufual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally ftepped in, and ended it by putting a flick between the combatants. The 24 AVOYAGETO «7?9- The fame good humour was preferved throughout, which wc before fo much admired in the Friendly lflanders. As thefe games were given at our defire, we found it was univerfally expect;. !, that we fhould have borne our part in them > but our people, though much prefTed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the Friendly lflands. This day died William Watman, a fcaman of the gun- ner's crew ; an event which I mention the more particu- larly, as death had hitherto been very rare amongft us. He was an old man, and much refpected on account of his attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly ferved as a marine twenty-one years ; after which he entered as a fea- man on board the llefolution in 1772, and ferved with Cap- tain Cook in his voyage toward the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into Greenwich hofpital, through the Captain's intercft, at the fame time with himfclf ; and being refolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his benefactor, he alfo quitted it along with him, on his being appointed to the command of the prefent expedition. During the voyage, he had frequently been fubject to flight fevers, and was a convalescent when we came into the bay, where being fent on fhore for a few days, he conceived him- fclf perfectly recovered, and, at his own defire, returned on board; but the day following, he had a paralytic ftroke, which in two days more carried him off. At the rcqucfl of the king of the ifland, he was buried on the Moral, and the ceremony was performed with as much folemnity as our fituation permitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were fpectators, and preferved the moft pro- found fjflcncc and attention, whilft the fervice was reading. When THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 25 When we began to fill up the grave, they approached it with FeYr7usa; . great reverence, threw in a dead pig, fome cocoa-nuts, and 1— -v-.- ; plantains ; and, for three nights afterward, they furrounded it, facrificing hogs, and performing their ufual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued till day-break. At the head of the grave, we erected a poll, and nailed upon it a fquare piece of board, on which was inferibed the name of the deceafed, his age, and the day of his death. This they promifed not to remove j and we have no doubt, but that it will be fuffered to remain, as long as the frail materials, of which it is made, will permit. The (hips being in great want of fuel, the Captain de- fired me, on the 2d of February, to treat with the priefls, for Tuefdayi: the purchafe of the rail, that furrounded the top of the Morai. I mult confefs, I had, at firft, fome doubt about the decency of this propofal, and was apprehenfive, that even the bare mention of it might be confidcred, by them, as a piece of (hocking impiety. In this, however, I found niy- ielf miftaken. Not the fmalleft furprize was exprefTed ac the application, and the wood was readily given, even with- out flipulating for any thing in return. Whilfl the failors were taking it away, I obferved one of them carrying off a carved image ; and, on further inquiry, I found, that they had conveyed to the boats the whole * femicircle. Though this was done in the prefence of the natives, who had not (hewn any mark of refentment at it, but had even aflifted them in the removal, I thought it proper to fpeak to Kaoo, on the fubjeeT: ; who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only defired, that we would reftore the centre * See defcription of the Aftrai, in the preceding Chapter. Vol. III. E image, a6 AVOYAGETO «77 '• image, I have mentioned before, which he carried into one of the prieft's houfes. Terreeoboo, and his Chiefs, had, for fome days pad, been very inquifuivc about the time of our departure. This cir- cumflance had excited in me a great curiofity to know, what opinion rhis people had formed of us, and what were their ideas refpecting the caufe and objects of our voyage. I took fome pains to fatisfy myfelf on thefc points ; but could never learn any thing farther, than that they imagined we came from fome country where provifions had failed ; and that our vifit to them. was merely for the purpofe of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of fome of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we fat down to their frefh provifions, and our great anxiety to purchafe, and carry off", as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to fuch a conclufion. To thefe may be added, a circum- flance which puzzled them exceedingly, our having no wo- men with us •, together with our quiet con duel:, and unwar- like appearance. It was ridiculous enough to fee them, ftroking the fides, and patting the bellies, of the failors (who were certainly much improved in the flceknefs of their looks, during our fhon (lay in the iiland), and telling them, partly by figns, and partly by words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit feafon, they fhould be better able to fupply their wants. We had now been fixtcen days in the bay; and it our enormous confumption of hogs and vegetables be con- fidered, it need not be wondered, that they lhould willi ta : us take our leave. It is very probable, however, than Terreeoboo had no other view, in his inquiries, at prefent, than a delire of making fuflicicnt preparation for difmiiling us THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 27 us with prefents, fuitable to the refpect and kindnefs with «779- which he had received us. For, on our telling him we ■ e T*7' mould leave the ifland on the next day but one, we obferved, that a fort of proclamation was immediately made, through the villages, to require the people to bring in their hogs, and vegetables, for the king to prefent to the Orono, on his departure. We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the buffooneries of one of the natives. He held in his hand an inftrument, of the fort defcribed in the lafl volume*; fomc bits of fea-weed were tied round his neck ; and round each leg, a piece of ftrong netting, about nine inches deep, on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loofely fattened, in rows. His flyle of dancing was en- tirely burlefque, and accompanied with flrange grimaces, and pantomimical diftortions of the face ; which though at times inexpreflibly ridiculous, yet, on the whole, was without much meaning, or expreflion. Mr. Webber thought it worth his while to make a drawing of this pcrfon, as ex- hibiting a tolerable fpecimen of the natives ; the manner in which the maro is tied ; the figure of the inftrument before mentioned, and of the ornaments round the legs, which, at other times, we alfo faw ufed by their dancers. In the evening, we were again entertained with wreftling and boxing matches ; and we difplaycd, in return, the few fireworks we had left. Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration of thefe iilanders, and to impici's them with an idea of our great fuperiority, than an exhibi- tion of this kind. Captain Cook has already defcribed the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hapaec ; * See Vol. ii. p. 236. E 2 and / ;8 A VOYAGE TO ■779- February. WcJncf. 3. and though the prefent was, in every refpecT:, infinitely in- ferior, yet the aftonifhment of the natives was not lefs. I have before mentioned, that the carpenters, from both fhips, had been fent up the country to cut planks, for the head rail-work of the Refolution. This was the third day fince their departure j and having received no intelligence from them, we began to be very anxious for their fafety. We were communicating our apprehenfions to old Kaoo, who appeared as much concerned as ourfelves, and were concert- ing meafures with him, for fending after them, when they arrived all fefe. They had been obliged to go farther into the country than was expected, before they met with trees fit for their purpofe ; and it was this circumftance, together, with the badnefs of the roads, and the difficulty of bring- ing back the timber, which had detained them fo long. They fpoke in high terms of their guides, who both fup- plied them with provifions, and guarded their tools with the utmoft fidelity. The next day, being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and myfelf to attend him, on the 3d, to the place, where Kaoorefulcd. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of cloth ; a vaft quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut hufks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces of iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a little diftance from thefe, lay an immenfe quantity of vegetables, of every kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. Ac lirft, we imagined the whole to be intended as a prefent for us, till Kaireekcca informed me, that it was a gift, or tri- bute, from the people of that diflrict to the king ; and, ac- cordingly, as foon as we were featcd, they brought all the bundles, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 29 bundles, and laid them feverally atTerreeoboo's feet : fpread- _ *779- J .*■ 1'ebruary. ing out the cloth, and difplaying the feathers, and iron- * ^—- ' ware, before him. The king learned much pleafed with this mark of their duty; and having felected about a third part of the iron-ware, the fame proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, thefe were fet afide, by themfelves ; and the remainder of the cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were afterward prefented to Captain Cook, and myfelf. We were aftonifhed at the value and magni- tude of this prefent, which far exceeded every thing of the kind we had feen, either at the Friendly or Society Iflands. Boats were immediately fent, to carry them on board ; the large hogs were picked out, to be falted for fea-flore j and upward of thirty fmaller pigs, and the vegetables, were di- vided between the two crews. The fame day, we quitted the Moral, and got the tents and agronomical inflruments on board. The charm of the taboo was now removed ; and we had no fooner left the place, than the natives rufhed in, and fearched eagerly about, in ex- pectation of finding fomething of value, that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the laft on fhore, and waited for the return of the boat, feveral came crowd- ing about me, and having made me fit clown by them, be- gan to lament our feparation. It was, indeed, not without: difficulty, I was able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence, in which I was principally concerned. Having had the command of the party on fhore, during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than thofe whofe duty required them to be generally on board. As I had every reafon to be fatisfied with their kindnefs, in ge- neral JO A VOYAGE TO 1779- Februarv. Thurfday4. Friday ;. ncral, fo I cannot too often, nor too particularly, mention the unbounded and conftant friendfhip of their pricns. On my part, I fpared no endeavours to conciliate their af- fections, and gain their efteem ; and I had the good fortune to fucceed fo far, that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was flrongly folicited to remain behind, not without offers of the mod flattering kind. When I excufed myfelf, by faying, that Captain Cook would not give his confent, they propofed, that I mould retire into the moun- tains; where, they faid, they would conceal me, till after the departure of the fhips ; and on my farther alluring them, that the Captain would net leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whofe fon they fuppofed I was, with a formal requeft, that I might be left behind. The Captain, to avoid giving a pofitive re- fufal, to an oiler fo kindly intended, told them, that he could not part with me, at that time, but that he fhould re- turn to the ifland next year, and would then endeavour to fettle the matter to their fatisfaclion. Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and failed out of the bay, with the Difcovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's de- fign was to finilh the furvcy of Ovvhyhee, before he vifited the other iflands, in hopes of meeting with a road better fheltercd, than the bay we had juft left ; and in cafe of not fuccceding here, he purpofed to take a view of the South Eaft part of Mowee, where the natives informed us we fhould find an excellent harbour. We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our progrefs to the Northward very flow. We were accompanied by a great number of the natives in their THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 5i their canoes ; and Terreeoboo gave a freih proof of his '779- February. friendfliip to Captain Cook, by a large prefent of hogs, and i , — > vegetables, that was fent after him. In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the land, we made fome way to the Northward ; and in the morning of the 6th, having pafTed the Wefternmoit point of the Saturday^ ifland, we found ourfelves abreaft of a deep bay, called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes, that this bay- would furniih us with a fafe and commodious harbour, as we faw, to the North Eaft, feveral line ftreams of water j and the whole had the appearance of being well fheltered. Tliel'e obfervations agreeing with the accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain Cook, and had changed his name, out of compliment to us, into Britannee, the pinnace was hoilled our, and the Mafter, with Britannee for his guide, was fent to examine the bay, whilft the mips worked up after them. In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the , gufts of wind, that blew off the land, were fo violent, as to make it ncceflary to take in all the fails, and bring to, un- der the mizen ftay-fail. All the canoes left us, at the be- ginning of the gale; and Mr. Bligh> on his return, had the fatisfaction of faving an old woman, and two men, whole canoe had been overfet by the violence of the wind, as they were endeavouring to gain the more. Bcfides thefe dif- trefTed people, wc had a great many women on board, whom the natives had left behind, in their hurry to fliift for themfelves. The Mafter reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the only village he faw, on the North fide of the bay, where he was directed to fome wells of water; but found,, & they 32 AVOYAGETO >779- they would by no means anfwer our purpofe •, that he afte r l'-'"!0', ward proceeded farther inro the bay, which runs inland to a great depth, and ftretches toward the foot of a very con- fpicuous high mountain, fituated on the North Weft end of the ifland ; but that inftead of meeting with fafe anchorage, as Britannee had taught him to expect, he found the fhores low and rocky, and a flat bed of coral rocks running along the coaft, and extending upward of a mile from the land ; on the outfide of which, the depth of water was twenty fathoms, over a fandy bottom ; and that, in the mean time, Britannee had contrived to flip away, being afraid of return., ing, as we imagined, becaufe his information had not proved true and fuccefsful. In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again made fail ; but about midnight it blew fo violently, as to fplit both the fore and main topfails. On the morning of Sunday 7. the 7th, we bent frefh fails, and had fair weather, and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 20° 1' North, the Weft point of the ifland bearing South, 70 Eaft, and the North Weft point North, 38" Eaft. As we were, at this time, four or five leagues from the fhore, and the weather very unfettled, none of the canoes would ven- ture out, fo that our gucfts were obliged to remain with us, much indeed to their dilTatisfaction ; for they were all fea- fick, and many of them had left young children behind them. In the afternoon, though the weather was (till fqually, we flood in for the land, and being about three leagues from it, we faw a canoe, with two men paddling toward us, which we immediately conjectured had been driven off the more, by the late boitterous weather; and therefore flopped the THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 33 the fhip's way, in order to take them in. Thcfe poor „ '779« 1 J * February. wretches were fo entirely exhaufted with fatigue, that had « — v— ~ t not one of the natives on board, obferving their weaknefs, jumped into the canoe to their affiftance, they would fcarcely have been able to faften it to the rope we had thrown out for that purpofe. It was with difficulty we got them up the fhip's fide, together with a child, about four years old, which they had lamed under the thwarts of the canoe, where it had lain with only its head above water. They told us, they had left the more the morning before, and had been, from that time, without food or water. The ufual precau- tions were taken in giving them victuals, and the child be- ing committed to the care of one of the women, we found them all next morning perfectly recovered. At midnight, a gale of wind came on, which obliged us to double reef the topfails, and get down the top-gallant yards. On the 8th, at day-break, we found, that the fore- Mondays. mail had again given way, the fiQies, which were put on the head, in King George's or Nootka Sound, on the coaft of America, being fprung, and the parts fo very defective, as to make it abfolutely neceffary to replace them, and, of courfe, to unflep the mart. In this difficulty, Captain Cook was for fome time in doubt, whether he mould run the chance of meeting with a harbour in the iflands to leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not fo remark- ably commodious, in any refpect, but that a better might probably be expected, both for the purpofe of repairing the mails, and for procuring refrefhments, of which, it was imagined, that the neighbourhood of Karakakooa had been already pretty well drained. On the other hand, it was confidered as too great a rifk to leave a place, that was tolerably fheltcrcd, and which, once left, could not be re- Vol. III. F gained, „, AVOYAGETO o • 1779- gained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better ; the February. » v — ' failure of which might perhaps have left us without refource. We therefore continued ftanding on toward the land, in order to give the natives an opportunity of rcleafing their friends on board from their confinement ; and, at noon, be- ing within a mile of the more, a few canoes came off to us, but fo crowded with people, that there was not room in them for any of our guefts ; we therefore hoifted out the pinnace to carry them on fhore ; and the Mailer, who went with them, had directions to examine the South coalls of the bay for water ; but returned without finding any. The winds being variable, and a current fetting flrong to the Northward, we made but little progrefs in our return ; ruefday 9. and at eight o'clock in the evening of the 9th, it began to blow very hard from the South Eaft, which obliged us to clofe reef the toplails ; and at two in the morning of the vvednef. ic. ioth, in a heavy fquall, we found ourfelves clofe in with the breakers, that lie to the Northward of the Weft point of Owhyhee. We had juft room to haul off, and avoid them, and fired fevcral guns to apprize the Difcovery of the danger. In the forenoon, the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came off to us, from which we learnt, that tlie late florms had done much mifchief ; and that feveral large canoes had been loll. During the remainder of the day, we kept beating to windward ; and, before night, we were within a mile of the bay j but not choofing to run on, while Thurfdayn. it was dark, we flood oil' and on till day-light next morning, when we dropt anchor nearly in the fame place as before. 9 C II A P. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. * 35 C II A P. III. Snfpicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa Bay. — 'Theft on board the Difcovery, a its Confequences. — The Pinnace aitac/tcd, and the Crew obliged to quit her. — Captain Cook's Obfervations on the Occafion. — Attempt at the Obfcrvatory. — The Cutter of the Difcovery f den. — Mcafures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery. — Goes on Shore, to invite the King on board. — The King being flopped by his Wife, and the Chiefs, a Contejl arifes. — News arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed, by one of our People, — Ferment on this Oc- cafion.— One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cock, .-. isjhot by him. — Ge?teral Attack by the Natives. — Death of Captain Cook. — Account of the Captain s Services, . and a Sketch of his Characler. TT 7 E were employed the whole of the nth, and part of „ '"'> VV the 1 2th, in getting out the forcmaft, and fending v — ' • n r Thurfdayn. it, with the carpenters, on lhore. Belidcs the damage Friday 12. which the head of the maft had fuftaincd, we found the heel exceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle of it, capable of holding four or five cocoa-nuts. It was not, however, thought neceflary to fhorten it ; and for- tunately, the logs of red toa-wood, which had been cut at Eimeo, for anchor-flocks, were found fit to replace the fprung parts of the fifhes. As thefe repairs were likely to F 2 . take 3<> A VOYAGE TO •77 take up feveral clays, Mr. Bayly and myfelf, got the aftro- ■ L r" ''' > nomical apparatus on more, and pitched our tents on the Moral j having with us a guard of a corporal and fix ma- rines. We renewed our friendly correfpondence with the priefts, who, for the greater fecurity of the workmen, and their tools, tabooed the place where the mail lay, (licking; their wands round it, as before. The failmakers were alfo- fent on more, to repair the damages which had taken place in their department, during the late gales. They were lodged in a houfe adjoining to the Moral, that was lent us by the priefts. Such were our arrangements on fhore. I mail now proceed to the account of thofe other tranfactions with the natives, which led, by degrees, to the fatal cata- flrophe of the 14th. Upon coming to anchor, we were furprized to find our reception very different from what it had been on our firfl arrival ; no fhouts, no buftle, no confufion ; but a folitary bay, with only here and there a canoe ftealing clofe along the ihore. The impulfc of curiofity, which had before ope- rated to fo great a degree, might now indeed be fuppofed to have ecafed ; but the hofpitable treatment we had invari- ably met with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us fomc reafon to expect, that they would again have flocked about us with great joy, on our return. We were forming various conjectures, upon the occafion of this extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved by the return of a boat, which had been fent on fiiorc, and brought us word, that Terrceoboo was ab- fent, and had left the bay under the taboo. Though this ac- count appeared very fatisfactory to mod of us ; yet others were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by fub- fcquent: 7 THE PACIFTC OCEAN. 57 iequent events, to imagine, that there was fomething, at '779- ... r r ■ . -ii,. „ February- this time, very iufpicious in the behaviour of the. natives; > ^ j and that the interdiction of all intercourfe with us, op pre- tence of the king's abfence, was only to give him time to confult with his Chirfs, in what manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether theie fufpicions were well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth, we were never able to afcertain. For though it is not improbable, that our fudden return, for which they could fee no appa- rent caufe, and the necefiity of which we afterward found it very difficult to make them comprehend, might occafion' fome alarm ; yet the unfufpicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, on his fuppofed arrival, the next morning, came im- mediately to vifit Captain Cook, and the confequent return of the natives to their former friendly intercourfe with us, are ftrong proofs, that they neither meant, nor appre- hended, any change of conduct. In fupport of this opinion, I may add the account of ano- ther accident, precifely of the fame kind, which happened: to us, on our firft vifir, the day before the arrival of the king. A native had fold a hog on board the Ucfolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, palling by, advifed the man not to part with the hog, without an ad- vanced price. For this, he. was fharply fpoken to, and pufhed away ; and the taboo being foon after laid on the bay, we had at firft no doubt, but that it was in confequence of the offence given to the Chief. Both thefe accidents ferve to fhew, how very difficult it is to draw any certain conclufion from the actions of people, with whofe culloms, as well as language, we are fo imperfectly acquainted ; ae the fame time, fome idea may be formed from them, of the difficulties, at the firit view, perhaps, not very apparent, which. 38 AVOYAGETO ' which thofc have to encounter, who, in all their tranf- rebruary. « — -*—— / a<5tions with thefe ftrangei s, have to ileer their courfe amidfi fo much uncertainty, where a trifling error may be attended with even the mod fatal confequenccs. However true or f'alfc our conjectures may be, things went on iu their ufual Saturday 13. qUjet courfe, till the afternoon of the 13th. Toward the evening of that day, the officer who com- manded the watering-party of the Difcovcry, came to in- form me, that fcveral Chiefs had aflemblcd at the well near the beach, driving away the natives, whom he had hired to affift the failors in rolling down the cafks to the fhore. He told me, at the fame time, that he thought their behaviour extremely iufpicious, and that ihey meant to give him fomc farther diflurbance. At his requeft, therefore, I lent a ma- rine along with him, but fufTered him to take only his fide- arms. In a fhort time, the officer returned, and on his ac- quainting me, that the iflanders had armed thcmfclvcs with Hones, and were grown very tumultuous, I went myfelf to the fpot, attended by a marine, with his mufquet. Seeing us approach, they threw away their Hones, and, on my fpeaking to fome of the Chiefs, the mob were driven away, and thofc who chofe it, were fuffcred to affift in filling the cafks. Having left things quiet here, I went to meet Cap- tain Cook, whom I faw coming on fhore, in the pinnace. I related to him what had juft palled ; and he ordered me, in cafe of their beginning to throw ftones, or behave info- lently, immediately to fire a ball at the offenders. I accord- ingly gave orders to the corporal, to have the pieces of the fentinels loaded with ball, inilead of fmall fhot. Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued fire of mufqucts, from the Difcovcry, which we obferved February. ' . — THE PACIFIC OCEAN. obferved to be directed at a canoe*, that we faw paddling '779 toward the fhore, in great hafte, purfued by one of our fraall boats. We immediately concluded, that the firing was in confequence of fome theft, and Captain Cook or- dered me to follow him with a marine armed, and to en- deavour to feize the people, as they came on more. Ac- cordingly we ran toward the place where we fuppofed the canoe would land, but were too late ; the people having quitted it, and made their cfcape into the country before our arrival. We were at this time ignorant, that the goods had been already reflored ; and as we thought it probable, from the circumftanccs we had at fir ft obferved, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore inquired of the natives, which way the people had fled, we followed them,, till it was near dark, when judging ourfelves to be about three miles from the tents, and fufpecting, that the natives, who frequently encouraged us in the purfuit, were amufing us with falfe information, we thought it in vain to continue our fearch any longer, and returned to the beach. During our abfence, a difference, of a more ferious and unpleafant nature, had happened. The officer, who had been fent in the fmall boat, and was returning on board, with the goods which had been reflored, obferving Captain Cook and me engaged in the purfuit of the offenders, thought it his duty to feize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the fhore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareea, who arriving, at the fame moment, from on board the Difcovery, claimed his property, with many protections of his innocence. The officer ref'ufing to give it up, and be- February. 4o AVOYAGETO '779- being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a fcufile enfued, in which Pareea was knocked down, by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the lpot, and had hi- therto been peaceable fpeetators, immediately attacked our people with fuch a fhower of Hones, as forced them to re- treat, with great precipitation, and fwim olF to a rock, at fome diitance from the fhore. The pinnace was immedi- ately ranfacked by the iilanders ; and, but for the timely in- terpolation of Pareea, who feemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at the fame inftant, would foon have been entirely demolifhed. Having driven away the crowd, he made figns to our people, that they might come and take poirefTion of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a mid- shipman's cap, and fome other trifling articles of the plun- der, and, with much apparent concern at what had hap- pened, aikcd, if the Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day ? On be- ing allured, that he ihould be well received, he joined nofes (as their cuftom is) with the officers, in token of friendlhip, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa. When Captain Cook was informed of what had palled, he exprefled much uncafinefs at it, and as we were returning on board, " I am afraid," laid he, " that thefe people will oblige me to life fome violent mcafurcs ; for," he added, " they mull not be left to imagine, that they have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too laic to take any fleps this evening, he contented himfelf with giving orders, that every man and woman on board fliould be immediately turned out of the iliip. As foon as this order was THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 41 was executed, I returned on more ; and our former confidence »/79- r*ebrua.r)% in the natives being now much abated, by the events of the > *—> day, I ported a double guard on the Moral, with orders to call me, if they faw any men lurking about the beach. At about eleven o'clock, five iflanders were obferved creeping round the bottom of the Morai ; they feemed very cautious in approaching us, and, at laft, finding themfelves difco- vered, retired out of fight. About midnight, one of them venturing upclofeto the obfervatory, the fentinel fired over him j on which the men fled, and we palled the remainder of the night without farther difturbance. Next morning, at day-light, I went on board the Refolu- Sunday 14, tion for the time-keeper, and, in my way, was hailed by the Difcovery, and informed, that their cutter had been flolen, during the night, from the buoy where it was moored. When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilft I was relating to him what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me, with fome eagernefs, and acquainted me with the lofs of the Difcovery 's cutter, and with the prepa- rations he was making for its recovery. It had been his ufual practice, whenever any thing of confequence was lofr, at any of the iflands in this ocean, to get the king, or fomc of the principal Erces, on board, and to keep them as hoft- ages, till it was reilored. This method, which had been always attended with fuccefs, he meant to purfue on the prefent occafion ; and, at the fame time, had given orders to flop all the canoes that mould attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of feizing and deftroying them, if he could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accord- Vol. III. G ingly, 42 A VOYAGE TO •779- ingly, the boats of both mips, well manned and armed, were ftationed acrofs the bay ; and, before I left the ftiip, fome great guns had been fired at two large canoes, that were attempting to make their efcape. It was between feven and eight o'clock when we quitted the ftiip together ; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips, and nine marines with him; and myfelf in the fmall boat. The laft orders I received from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on our fide of the bay, by alluring them, they mould not be hurt ; to keep my people together ; and to be on my guard. We then parted ; the Captain went toward Kowrowa, where the king refided ; and I proceeded to the beach. My firft care, on going afhore, was to give flricSt orders to the marines to remain within the tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo, and the priefts, and explained to them, as well as I could, the object of the hoftile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed them. I found, that they had already heard of the cutter's being ftolen, and I allured them, that though Captain Cook was refolved to recover it, and to punifh the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village on our fide, need not be under the fmalleft apprehenfion of fuflering any evil from us. I defired the priefts to explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo cifkcd me, with great earneftnefs, if Terreeoboo was to be hurt > I allured him, he was not; and both he and the reft of his brethren fecmed much fatisfied with this afTurance. In the mean time, Captain Cook, having called ofF the launch, which was ftationed at the North point of the bay, and 4 taken THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 43 taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed p1,779' with the Lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately «* — , '. marched into the village, where he was received with the ufual marks of refpedr. ; the people proftrating themfelves before him, and bringing their accuftomed offerings of fmall hogs. Finding that there was no fufpicion of his de- fign, his next ftep was, to inquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his fons, who had been his conftant guefts on board the Refolution. In a fhort time, the boys returned along with the natives, who had been fent in fearch of them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the houfe where the king had flept. They found the old man jufl awoke from fleep ; and, after a fhort converfation about the lofs of the cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in no wife privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and fpend the day on board the Refolution. To this propofal the king readily confented, and immediately got up to accompany him. Things were in this profperous train, the two boys being already in the pinnace, and the reft of the party having ad- vanced near the water-fide, when an elderly woman called Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and with many tears, and entreaties, befought him not to go on board. At the fame time, two Chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and infilling, that he fhould go no farther, forced him to fit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the fliore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, and the ap- pearances of hoflility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. In this fituation, the Lieute- nant of marines, obferving that his men were huddled clofe G 2 together 44 A VOYAGE TO »779» together in the crowd, and thus incapable of ufing their arms, if any occafion mould require it, propofed to the Captain, to draw them up along the rocks, clofe to the water's edge ; and the crowd readily making way for them to pafs, they were drawn up in a line, at the diftance of about thirty yards from the place where the king was fitting. All this time, the old king remained on the ground, with the flrongeft marks of terror and dejection in his counte- nance ; Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on more, continuing to urge him, in the moil prcfling manner, to proceed ; whilft, on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow him, the Chiefs, who flood round him, interpofed, at iirft with prayers and entreaties, but afterward, having recou rfe to^ force and violence, and infifted on his (laying where he was„ Captain Cook therefore finding, that the alarm had fpread: too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off, without bloodmed, at lad: gave up the point; obfervingto Mr. Phillips, that it would be impoiliblc to compel him to go on board, without the rilk of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the cnterprizc, which had carried Captain Cook on more had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his per- fon did not appear to have been in the leaf! danger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, which had been (lationcd acrofs the bay, having fired at fome canoes, that were attempting to get out, unfor- tunately had killed a Chief of the iirfl rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, juit as he had left the king, and was walking llowly toward the more. The ferment it occafioncd was very confpicuous; the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4 J the women and children were immediately fent off; and *77&« 1 i , , ^ , February. the men put on their war-mats, and armed themfelves with fpears and ftones. One of the natives, having in his hands a flone, and a long iron fpike (which they call a pahooa) eame up to the Captain, flourifhing his weapon, by way of defiance, and threatening to. throw the flone. The Captain defired him to defift; but the man perfifling in his infolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of fmall-fhot. The man having his mat on, which the mot were not able to pe- netrate, this had no other effect than to irritate and encou- rage them. Several ftones were thrown at the marines ; and one of the Erees attempted to flab Mr. Phillips with his pahooa ; but failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the but end of his mufquet. Captain Cook now fired his fecond barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremofl of the natives. A general attack with (tones, immediately followed, which was anfwered by a difcharge of mufquetry from the marines, and the people in the boats. The iflanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, flood the fire with great firmnefs ; and before the marines had time to reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful; fhouts and yells. What followed was a fcene of the utmofl horror and confufion. Pour of the marines were cut off amongfl the rocks in their retreat, and fell a faenfice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangeroufly wounded j and the Lieutenant,, who had received a flab between the moulders with a paboooi having fortunately referved his fire, (hot the man who had wounded him juft as he was going to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate Commander, the lafl time he was feen diflincthv was (landing at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to ceafe firing, and to pull im If it be true, as ibme of 46 AVOYAGETO '779. of thofe who were prefent have imagined, that the marine! and boat-men had fired without his orders, and that he was defirous of preventing any further bloodmed, it is not im- probable, that his humanity, on this occafion, proved fatal, to him. For it was remarked, that whilft he faced the na- tives, none of them had offered him any violence, but that having turned about, to give his orders to the boats, he was ftabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On feeing him fall, the iflanders fet up a great fliout, and his body was immediately dragged on more, and fur- rounded by the enemy, who matching the dagger out of each other's hands, mewed a favage eagernefs to have a lhare in his deftruction. Thus fell our great and excellent Commander ! After a life of fo much diftinguifhed and fuccefsful enterprize, his death, as far as regards himfelf, cannot be reckoned pre- mature; fince he lived to finilh the great work for which he feems to have been defigned ; and was rather removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquifition, of glory. How fmcerely his lofs was felt and lamented, by thofe who had fo long found their general fecurity in his fkill and con- duct, and every confolation, under their hardships, in his tendernefs and humanity, it is neither neceiTary nor poflible for me to defcribe ; much lefs mall I attempt to paint thex horror with which we were ftruck, and the univerfal dejec- tion and difmay, which followed fo dreadful and unex- pected a calamity. The reader will not be difpleafed to turn from fo fad a fcene, to the contemplation of his character and virtues, whilft I am paying my laft tribute to the me- mory of a dear and honoured friend, in a lhort hiftory of his life, and public fervices. Captain THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 47 Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in York- "779- ' February. fhire, in the year 1727 ; and, at an early age, was put ap- 1 — n — . j prentice to a fhopkeeper in a neighbouring village. His na- tural inclination not having been confulted on this occa- fion, he foon quitted the counter from difguft, and bound himfelf, for nine years, to the mafter of a veffel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war in 1755, he entered into the king's fervice, on board the Eagle, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterward by Sir Hugh Pallifer, who foon difcovered his merit, and introduced him on the quarter-deck. In the year 1758, we find him mafter of the Northumber- land, the flag fhip of Lord Colville, who had then the com- mand of the fquadron ftationed on the coaft of America. It was here, as I have often heard him fay, that, during a hard winter, he firft read Euclid, and applied himfelf to the ftudy of mathematics and aftronomy, without any other affiftance, than what a few books, and his own induftry, afforded him. At the fame time, that he thus found means to cultivate and improve his mind, and to fupply the defi- ciencies of an early education, he was engaged in raoft of the bufy and active fcenes of the war in America. At the fiege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of fervices, of the firft importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham ; examined the pafTage, and laid buoys for the fecurity of the large fliips in proceeding up the river. The courage and addrefs with which he acquitted himfelf in thefe fervices, gained him the warm friendlhip of Sir Charles '• Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued to patronize him, during the reft of their lives, with the greateft zeal and" af- fection;. A VOYAGE TO fcilion. At the conclufion of the war, he was appointed, through the recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Pal iifer, to i'urvey the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coafts of Newfoundland. In this employment he continued till the year 1-/67, when he was fixed on by Sir Edward tlawke, to command an expedition to the South Seas ; for the pur- pofe of oblerving the tranfit of Venus, and profecuting dif- coverics in that part of the globe. From this period, as his ferviccs are too well known to require a recital here, fo his reputation has proportionably advanced to a height too great to be affected by my pane- gyrick. Indeed, he appears to have been moft eminently and peculiarly qualified for this fpecies of enterprize. The carlieft habits of his life, the courfe of his fervices, and the conflant application of his mind, all confpired to fit him for it, and gave him a degree of profeflional knowledge, which can fall to the lot of very few. The conftitution of his body was robuft, inured to labour, and capable of undergoing the fevered hardfhips. His fto- mach bore, without diflicultv, the coarfelt and moft un- grateful food. Indeed, temperance in hirn was fcarcely a virtue ; fo great was the indifference with which he fub- mitted to every kind of feif-denial. The qualities of his mind were of the fame hardy, vigorous kind with thole of his body. His underilanding was ftrong and perfpicacious. His judgment, in whatever related to the fervices he was engaged in, quick and fure. His defigns were bold and manly ; and both in the conception, and in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable prcfencc of mind in the moment of <> danger. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 49 danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. His '"79- 0 * m rebruary. temper might perhaps have been juftly blamed, as fubject 1 ^— -• to haftinefs and paffion, had not thefe been difarmed by a difpofition the moll: benevolent and humane. Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but its mofldiftinguifhing feature was,that unremitting perfeve- rance in the purfuit of his object:, which was not only fuperior to the oppofition of dangers, and the preflure of hardships, but even exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in which he was engaged, his eagernefs and activity were never in the leaft abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment ; even thofe intervals of recreation, which fomctimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that ptrfons, who have experienced the fatigues of fervice, will readily excufe, were fubmitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could not be employed in making further provifion for the more effectual profecution of his defigns. It is not neceffary, here, to enumerate the inflances in which thefe qualities were difplayed, during the great and important enterprizes in which he was engaged. I fhall content myfelf with dating the refult of thofe fervices, under the two principal heads to which they may be refer- red, thofe of geography and navigation, placing each in a feparate and diftinct point of view. Perhaps no feience ever received greater additions from the labours of a angle man, than geography has done from thofe of Captain Cook. In his firfl voyage to the South Seas, he difcovered the Society Iflands ; determined the in- fularity of New Zealand ; difcovered the ftraits which fepa- Vol. III. H rate 5° A VOYAGE TO '779- rate the two iilands, and are called after his name; and- made a complete furvcy of both. He afterward explored the Eaftern coaft of New Holland, hitherto unknown ; an extent of twenty-feven degrees of latitude, or upward of two thoufand miles.. In his fecond expedition, he refolvcd the great problem of a Southern continent ; having traveried that hemifphere be- tween the latitudes of 400 and 700, in fuch a manner, as not to leave a poflibility of its exifcencc, unlefs near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. During this voyage, he difcovered New Caledonia, the largeft ifland in the South- ern Pacific, except New Zealand; the ifland of Georgia; and an unknown coaft, which he named Sandwich Land, the thule of the Southern hemifphere ; and having twice, vifited the tropical feas, he fettled the fituations of the old,, and made fcveral new difcoveries. But the voyage we are now relating, is diftinguifhed, above all the reft, by the extent and importance of its dif- coveries. Bcfides feveral fmaller iflands in the Southern Pacific, he difcovered, to the North of the equinoctial ]:nc, the group called the Sandwich Ulands ; which, from their fituation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an object: of confcqucnce, in the iyflem of European navigation, than any other difcovery in the South Sea. He afterward ex- plored what had hitherto remained unknown of the Weftcrn coaft of America, from the latitude of 430 to 70° North, con- taining an extent of three thoufand five hundred miles ; afcertaincd the proximity of the two great continents of Ana and America ; paffed the ftraits between them, and fur- veyed the coaft, on each fide, to fuch a height of Northern latitude, as to demonftrate the impracticability of a paffage^ 8 in THE PACIFIC OCliAN. 51 in that hemifphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, '779- February. either by an Eaftern or a Weltern courfe. In fhort, if we except the fea of Amur, and the Japanefe Archipelago, which Hill remain imperfectly known to Europeans, he has completed the hydrography of the habitable globe. As a navigator, his fervices were not perhaps lefs fplendid; certainly not lefs important and meritorious. The method which he difcovered, and fo fuccefsfully purfued, of pre- ferving the health of feamen, forms a new ccra in naviga- tion, and will tranfmit his name to future ages, amongfl. the friends and benefactors of mankind. Thofe who are converfant in naval hiflory, need not be told, at how dear a rate the advantages, which have been fought, through the medium of long voyages at fea, have always been purchafed. That dreadful dilbrder which is peculiar to this fcrvice, and whofe ravages have marked the tracks of difcoverers with circumftanccs almoft too mock- ing to relate, mud, without exercrfing an unwarrantable tyranny over the lives of our feamen, have proved an in- fuperable obftacle to the profecution or fuch cnterprizes. It was refcrved for Captain Cook to ihew the world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be protracted to the un- it fual length of three or even four years, in unknown re- gions, and under every change and rigour of climate, not only without affecting the health, but even without di- minifhing the probability of life, in the fmallcft degree. The method he purfued has been fully explained by him- felf, in a paper which was read before the Royal Society, in the year 1776*; and whatever improvements the experience * Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him, on that cccafion. H 2 ©f 5* A VOYAGE TO »779- of the prefent voyage has fuggefted, are mentioned in their February. r \ — v — i proper places. With refpecl: to his profeffional abilities, I fhall leave them to the judgment of thofe who are beft acquainted with the nature of the fervices in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge, that to have conducted three ex- peditions of fo much danger and difficulty, of fo unufual a length, and in fuch a variety of fituation, with uniform and invariable fuccefs, muft have required not only a thorough and accurate knowledge of his bufinefs, but a powerful and comprehenfive genius, fruitful in refources, and equally ready in the application of whatever the higher and inferior calls of the fervice required. Having given the mod faithful account I have been able to collect, both from my own obfervation, and the relations of others, of the death of my ever honoured friend, and alfo of his character and fervices ; I fhall now leave his me- mory to the gratitude and admiration of pofterityj accept- ing,, with a melancholy fatisfaction, the honour, which the lofs of him hath procured me, of feeing my name joined with his ; and of teltifying that aifection and refpect for his memory, which, whilrt. he lived, it was no lefs my in- clination, than my conflant fludy, to fhew him. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN, J3 CHAP. IV. Tranfaclions at Owhyhee, fubfequent to the Death of Cap- tai?i Cook. — Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines. — Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai. — Bravery of one of the Natives. — Confultation refpetling future Meafures. — Demand of the Body of Captain Cook. — Evajive and infidious ConduSl of Koaht and the Chiefs. — Infolent Behaviour of the Natives. — Promotion of Officers. — Arrival of two Priefls with Part of the Body. — Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys. — Burning of the Village of Kakooa. — Unfortunate Dejlruclion of the Dwellings of the Priefls. — Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.— Departure from Kara- kakooa Bay. IT has been already related, that four of the marines, F(,'h^ who attended Captain Cook, were killed by the iflanders on the fpot. The rell, with Mr. Phillips, their Lieutenant, threw themfelvcs into the water, and cfcaped, under cover of a fmartfire from the boats. On this occafion, a remark, able infeance of gallant behaviour, and of affeclion for his men, was fhewn by that officer. For he had fcarcely got into the boat, when, feeing one of the marines, who was a bad fwimmer, ftruggling in the water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the fea to his affiftance, though much wounded himfelf ; and i after February. Sunday 14. A VOYAGE TO '779- after receiving a blow on the head from a flonc, which had February. . , ,, « , 1 nearly fent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair, and brought him fafe off*. Our people continued for fome time to keep up a conflant fire from the boats (which, during the whole tranfaclion, were not more than twenty yards from the land), in order to afford their unfortunate companions, if any of them fliould Mill remain alive, an opportunity of efcaping. Thcfe efforts, feconded by a few guns, that were fired at the fame time, from the Refolution, having forced the natives at lad to retire, a fmall boat, manned by five of our young mid- fhipmen, pulled toward the fliore, where they faw the bo- dies, without' any figns of life, lying on the ground ; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them off, with fo fmall a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, they returned to the fhips, leaving them in poffellion of the inlanders, together with ten {lands of arms. As foon as the general confternation, which the news of this calamity occafioncd throughout both crews, had a little fubfidcd, their attention was called to our party at the Moral, * From the annexed plate, the reader will be enabled to form a very clear and diitinc~t idea of the fituntion of the feveral places mentioned in this and the three lad chapters. On the fartheft point of land, beyond the fhips, to the left, is fituated the Village of Kowrowa, where Captain Cook was killed. The pile of ftones, with a building on the top, at the other extremity of the plate, reprefents the Moral, where the oblervatories were cicfted. Behind the grove of cocoa-nut trees, flood the cloiflcrs of the pricfts. To the left of thefe, is part of the village of Kakooa, which i burnt down on the 17th of February ; and, farther on, amongft the rocks, at the end of the beach, is the well where wc watered. The ftcep high ground, above the beach, is the bill from which the natives annoyed the waterers, by rolling down ftoncs. In the fore ground, a native is fwimming on one of the boards, as defcribed in the feventh chapter. The canoes, and the general air of the people, are reprefented with ike gfeatefi truth and fidelity. where THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 55 where the mail and fails were on fhore, with a euard of '779- r • m February, only fix marines. It is impofiible for me to defcribe the emotions of my own mind, during the time thefe tranf- actions had been carrying on, at the other fide of the bay. Being at the diftance only of a fhort mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could fee diftinctly an immenfe crowd col- lected on the fpot where Captain Cook had juft before landed. We heard the firing of the mufquetry, and could perceive fome extraordinary buftle and agitation in the mul- titude. We afterward faw the natives flying, the boats re^ tire from the fhore, and palling and repaffing, in great ftillnefs, between the (hips. I mud confefs, that my heart foon mifgave me. Where a life fo dear and valuable was concerned, it was impofiible not to be alarmed, by appear^ ances both new and threatening. But, befides this, I knew, that a long and uninterrupted courfe of fuccefs, in his tranf- actions with the natives of thefe fcas, had given the Captain a degree of confidence, that I was always fearful might, at fome unlucky moment, put him too much off his guard ,- and 1 now faw all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, without receiving much confolation from con- iidering the experience that had given rife to it. My fir ft care, on hearing the mufquets fired, was, to aflure the people, who were affembled in confidcrable numbers, round the wall of our confederated field, and feemed equally at a lofs with ourfelves how to account for what they had feen and heard, that they fhould not be molefted ; and that, at all events, I was defirous of continuing on peaceable terms with them. We remained in this pofture, till the boats had returned on board, when Captain Gierke, obferv- ing, through his telefcope, that we were furrounded by the natives, and apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two A VOYAGE TO •779- two four-pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately thefe .ury. v % - guns, though well aimed, did no mifchicf, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the* middle, under which a party of them were fitting; and the other fhivercd a rock, that flood in an exact line with them. As I had, juft before, given them the ftrongeft affuranccs of their fafety, 1 was exceedingly mortified at this act of hoftility ; and, to pre- vent a repetition of it, immediately difpatched a boat to ac- quaint Captain Clerke, that, at prefent, I was on the moll friendly terms with the natives ; and that, if occafion mould hereafter arife for altering my conduct toward them, I would hoift a jack, as a fignal for him to afford us all the afliftance in his power. We expected the return of the boat with theutmoft impa- tience ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour, under the moft torturing anxiety and fufpence, our fears were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to lliike the tents as quickly as poffible, and to fend the fails, that were repairing, on board. Juft at the fame mo- ment, our friend Kaireekcea having alio received intelli- gence of the death of Captain Cook, from a native, who had arrived from the other fide of the bay, came to me, with great forrow and dejection in his countenance, to inquire, if it was true ? Our fituation was, at this time, extremely critical and im- portant. Not only our own lives, but the event of the ex- pedition, and the return of at lead one of the fhips, being involved in the fame common danger. We had the mall of the Refolution, and the gicateft part of our fails, on fhore, under the protection of only fix marines : their lofs would have THE PACIFIC OCEAN. $j have been irreparable ; and though the natives had not as '7:9- yet fhewn the fmalleft difpofition to moleft us, yet it was v— - v 1 impoffible to anfwer for the alteration, which the news of the tranfa6lion at Kowrowa might produce. I therefore thought it prudent to diflemble my belief of the death of Captain Cook, and to defire Kaireekeea to difcourage the report ; left either the fear of our refentment, or the fuc- cefsful example of their countrymen, might lead them to feize the favourable opportunity, which at this time offered itfelf, of giving us a fecond blow. At the fame time, I ad- vifed him to bring old Kaoo, and the reft of the priefts, into a large houfe that was clofe to the Moral ; partly out of regard to their fafety, in cafe it mould have been found neceffary to proceed to extremities ; and partly to have him near us, in order to make ufe of his authority with the people, if it could be inftrumental in preserving peace. Having placed the marines on the top of the Morai, which formed a ftrong and advantageous poft, and left the com- mand with Mr. Bligh, giving him the moft pofitive direc- tions to ac~t entirely on the defenfive, I went on board the Difcovery, in order to reprefent to Captain Clerke the dan- gerous fituation of our affairs. As foon as I quitted the fpot, the natives began to annoy our people with ftoncs ; and I had fcarcely reached the (hip, before I heard the firing of the marines. I therefore returned inftantly on more, where I found things growing every moment more alarm- ing. The natives were arming, and putting on their mats j and their numbers increafed very faft. I could alfo perceive feveral large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff which feparates the village of Kakooa from the North fide of the bay, where the village of Kowrowa is fituated. Vol. III. I They 58 A VOYAGE TO '779- They began, at firft, to attack us with ftones, from behind the wails of their inclofures, and finding no refiftance on our part, they foon grew more daring. A few refolute fel- lows, having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, fuddenly made their appearance at the foot of the Moral, with a defign, as it leemed, of ftorming it on the fide next the fea, which was i:s only acccili Je part; and were not diflodged, till after they had flood a confiderable number of fhot, and feen one of their party fall. The bravery of one of thefe affailants well deferves to be particularly mentioned. For having returned to carry off his companion, amidft the fire of our whole party, a wound, which he received, made him quit the body and retire ; but, in a few minutes, he again appeared, and being again wounded, he was obliged a fecond time to retreat. At this moment I arrived at the Morai, and faw him return the third time, bleeding and faint ; and being informed of what had happened, I forbad the foldiers to fire, and he was fuf- fercd to carry off his friend ; which he was juft able to per- form, and then fell down himfelf, and expired. About this time, a ftrong reinforcement from both mips having landed, the natives retreated behind their walls ; which giving me accefs to our friendly priefts, I lent one of them to endeavour to bring their countrymen to fome terms, and to propofe to them, that if they would defift from throw- ing Hones, I would not permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and we were fullered to launch the mart, and carry oil' the fails, and our agronomical apparatus, unmo- Icflcd. As foon as we had quitted the Morai, they took pofTeffion of it, and fome of them threw a few flones ; but without doing us any mifchief. It THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 59 It was half an hour paft eleven o'clock, when I got on '779- * ° February. board the Difcovery, where I found no decifive plan had ' ' been adopted for our future proceedings. The reltitution of the boat, and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook were the objects, which, on all hands, we agreed to infift on ; and it was my opinion, that fome vigorous ftcps mould be taken, in cafe the demand of them was not immediately complied with. Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and ho- noured friend, may be fufpected to have had fome fhare in this opinion, yet there were certainly other realbns, and thofe of the moil ferious kind, that had confidcrablc weight with me. The confidence which their fuccefs in killing our Chief, and forcing us to quit the fliorc, muft naturally have infpircd ; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubt, encourage them to make fome further dangerous attempts; and the more efpecially, as they had little reafon, from what they had hitherto feen, to dread the effects of our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this fort of weapon had produced no figns of terror in them. On our fide, fuch was the condition of the mips, and the ftate of difcipline amongft us, that had a vigorous attack been made on us, in the night, it would have been impoflible to anfwer for the confequences. In thefe apprehenfions, I was fupported by the opinion of raoft of the officers on board ; and nothing feemed to me fo likely to encourage the natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined to an accom- modation, which they could only attribute to weakness, or fear. I 2 In Co AVOYAGETO 1779- In favour or' more conciliatory mcafures, it was juftly urged, epyouy. ^a( ^ mifchief was done, and irreparable ; that the na- tives had a ftrong claim to our regard, on account of their former friendship and kindnefs ; and the more efpecially, as the late melancholy accident did not appear to have arifen from any premeditated defign : that, on the part of Ter- reeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readinefs to accom- pany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually fent his two fons into the boat, muft free him from the fmalleft degree of fufpicion: that the conduct of his women, and the Erees, might eafily be accounted for, from the appre- henfions occafioncd by the armed force with which Captain Cook came on more, and the hoftile preparations in the bay; appearances fo different from the terms of friendfliip and confidence, in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently with a defign to refill the attempt, which they had fome reafon to imagine would be made, to carry off their king by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people full of affection and. attachment to their Chiefs. To thefe motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were added ; that we were in want of water, and other refreshments : that our foremail would require fix or eight days work, before it could be flcpped : that the fpring was advancing apace ; and that the fpecdy profecution of our next Northern expedition ought now to be our fole object : that therefore to engage in a vindictive corned with the in- habitants* might not only lay us under the imputation of unncceffary cruelty, but would occafion an unavoidable de- lay in the equipment of the mips. In tli is latter opinion Captain Clcrkc concurred; and though I was convinced, that an early dilplay of vigorous refentmem THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 61 refentment would more effectually have anfvvered every v^ February. object both of prudence and humanity, I was not forry, that the meafures I had recommended were rejected. For though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their fub- fequent oppofition to our necefTary operations on more, arif- ing, I have no doubt, from a mifconftruetion of our lenity, compelled us at laft to have recourfe to violence in our own defence; yet I am notfofure, that the circumftances of the cafe would, in the opinion of the world, have juftified the ufe of force, on our part, in the firft inftance. Cautionary rigour is at all times invidious, and has this additional ob- jection to it, that the feverity of a preventive courfe, when it bed fucceeds, leaves its expediency the leaft ap- parent. During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting fome plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourfe of natives ftill kept poffeffion of the more ; and fome of them came off in canoes, and had the boldncfs to approach within piftol-Ihot of the fhips, and to infult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great diffi- culty we could reflrain the failors from the ufe of their arms, on thefe occalions ; but as pacific meafures had been refolved on, the canoes were fuffered to return un- molested. In purfuance of this plan, it was determined, that I mould proceed toward the ihore, with the boats of both mips, well manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and, if poilible, to obtain a conference with fome of the Chiefs. If this attempt fucceeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and particularly that of Captain Cook ; to threaten them. 62 AVOYAGETO '779- them with our vengeance in cafe of a refufal; but, by no ' • e ™ r - means, to fire unlefs attacked ; and not to land on any ac- count whatever. Thefc orders were delivered tome before the whole party, and in the mofl pofitive manner. I left the mips about four o'clock in the afternoon ; and, as we approached the more, I perceived every indication of a hoftile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion ; the women and children retiring; the men putting on their war mats, and arming themfelves with long fpears and daggers. We alio obferved, that, fince the morning, they had thrown up ftone bread- works along the beach, where , Captain Cook had landed; probably in expectation of an attack at that place ; and, '^8 (ocn as we were within reach, they began to throw Hones at us with flings, but without doing any milchief. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain, unlefs I firfl gave them fome ground for mutual confidence ; I or- dered the armed boats to flop, and went on, in the fmall boat, alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the natives, I had the fatisfa6tion to find was inftantly undcrflood. The women immediately re- turned from the fide of the hill, whither they had retired; the men threw ofT their mats ; and all fat down together by the water-fide, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on fliore. Thoigh this behaviour was very exprefiive of a friendly difpofition, yet I could not help entertaining fome lufpicions of its fincci ity. But when I law Koali, with a boldnefs and aflurance altogether unaccountable, fwimming off toward the boat, with a white flag in his hand, I thought it ne- cefTary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore re- ived him into the boat, though armed; a circumftance which THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 63 which did not tend to lefTen my fufpicions. I muft confefs, *ft9- ' * rebruary. I had long harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. * u ', The pricfts had always told us, that he was of a malicious difpofition, and no friend of ours; and the repeated detec- tions of his fraud and treachery, had convince4 us of the truth of their reprefcntations. Add to all this, the mocking tranfaction of the morning, in which he was feen acting a principal part, made me feel the urmoft horror at finding myfelf fo near him ; and as he came up to me with feigned tears, and embraced me, I was fo diftruftful of his inten- tions, that I could not help taking hold of the point of the pahovah, which he held in his hand, and turning it from me. I told him, that I had come to demand the body of Captain Cook ; and to declare war againft them, unlefs it was inftantly reftored. He aiTured me this fhould be done as foon as pollible ; and that he would go himfelf for that purpofe ; and, afrer begging of me a piece of iron, with much afTurance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped into the fea, and fwam afhore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were all friends again. We waited near an hour, with great anxiety for his re- turn ; during which time, the reft of the boats had ap- proached fo near the fhore, as to enter into converfation with a party of the natives, at fome diftance from us ; by whom they were plainly given to underftand, that the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country; but of this circumftance I was not informed, till our return to the fhips. I began now to exprefs fome impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the Chiefs prefled me exceedingly to come on fhore ; alluring me, that if I would go myfelf to Terreeoboo, 2 the 64 A V O Y A G E T O •779- the body would certainlv be rcftorcd to me. When thev February. w — , — ^ found tliey could not prevail on me to land, they attempt- ed, under a pretence of wifhing to converfe with more cafe, to decoy our boat among fome rocks, where they would have had it in their power to cut us off from the reft. It was no difficult matter to fee through thefc artifices; and I was, therefore, flrongly inclined to break ofF all further communication with them, when a Chief came to us, who was the particular friend of Captain Clcrke, and of the officers of the Difcovery, on board which fhiphe had failed, when we laft left the bay, intending to take his paiTage to Mo-wee. He told us, he came from Terreeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the country ; but that it fliould be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great deal of fincerity in his manner ; and being afked, if he told a falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is underilood amongft thefe iflanders as the fign of truth ; in the ufe of which they are very fcrupulous. As I was now at a lofs in what manner to proceed, I fent Mr. Vancouver to acquaint Captain Clcrke with all that had pafTcd ; that my opinion was, they meant not to keep their word with us, and were fo far from being forry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full of fpirits and confidence on account of their late fuccefs, and fought only to gain time, till they could contrive fome fcheme for getting us into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for me to return on board ; having fir ft: given the natives to underftand, that, if the body was not brought the next morning, the town fliould be dellroyed. When they faw that we were going off, tliey endeavoured to provoke us by the mod infuhing and contemptuous ges- tures. Some of our people faid, they could diftinguifh feve- 7 ral THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Gj ral of the natives parading about in the clothes of our un- \779- fortunate comrades ; and, among them, a Chief brandilliing Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the fcabbard. Indeed, there can be no doubt, but that our behaviour had given them a mean opinion of our courage ; for they could have but little notion of the motives of humanity that di- rected it. In confequence of the report I made to Captain Clerkc, of what I conceived to be the prefent temper and difpofition of the iflanders, the moft effectual meafurcs were taken to guard againft any attack they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains ; additional fentinels were ported on both (hips ; and guard-boats were ftationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from cut- ting the cables. During the night we obferved a prodi- gious number of lights on the hills, which made fome of us imagine, they were removing their effects back into the country, in confequence of our threats. But I rather be- lieve them to have been the facrifices that were performing on account of the war, in which they imagined thcmfelves about to be engaged; and moil probably the bodies of our flain countrymen were, at that time, burning. We after- ward faw fires of the fame kind, as we paffed the ifland of Morotoi; and which, we were told by fome natives then on board, were made on account of the war they had declared againft a neighbouring ifland. And this agrees with what we learned amongft the Friendly and Society Ifles, that, previous to any expedition againft an enemy, the Chiefs al- ways endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage of the people by feafts and rejoicings in the night. We remained the whole night undifturbed, except by the howlings and lamentations which were heard on more : Vol. III. K and 66 AVOYAGETO '779- and early the next morning, Koah came along-fide the Re- v t l^i, folution, with a prefent of cloth, and a fmall pig, which he on ay's' defired leave to prefent to me. I have mentioned before, that I was fuppofed, by the natives, to be the fon of Captain Cook; and as he, in his life-time, had always fuffered them to believe it, I was probably confidered as the Chief, after his death. As foon as I came on deck, 1 queftioned him about the body ; and, on his returning me nothing but evafive anfwers, I refufed to accept his prefents; and was going to difmifs him, with fome expreffions of anger and refentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it beft, at all events, to keep up the appearance of friendfhip, thought it more proper, that he fhould be treated with the ufual re- fpecl. This treacherous fellow came frequently to us, during the courfe of the forenoon, with fome trifling prefent c • other ; and as I always obferved him eyeing every part c : the fhip with great attention, I took care he fhould fee wtr were well prepared for our defence. He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and' myfelf, to go on fhore, laying all the blame of the deten- tion of the bodies on the other Chiefs; and alluring us, that every thing might be fettled to our fatisfaction, by a pcr- fonal interview with Terrecoboo. However, his conduct was too fufpicious to make it prudent to comply with this requeft ; and indeed a fact came afterward to our know- ledge, which proved the entire falfehood of his pretenfions. For we were told, that, immediately after the action in which Captain Cook was killed, the old king had retired to a cave in the flecp part of the mountain, that hangs over the bay, which was ticccfiiblc only by the help of ropes, i and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. C7 and where he remained for many days, having his victuals '779- J J ° February. let down to him by cords. > „— '^j When Koah returned from the mips, we could perceive that his countrymen, who had been collected, by break of day, in vaft crowds on the more, thronged about him with great eagernefs ; as if to learn the intelligence he had ac- quired, and what was to be done in confequence of it. It is very probable, that they expected we mould attempt to put our threats in execution ; and they feemed fully refolvcd to Hand their ground. During the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing in different parts of the coaft ; large parties were fecn marching over the hills ; and, in fhort, appear- ances were fo alarming, that we carried out a ftream anchor, to enable us to haul the Ihip abreaft of the town, in cafe of an attack ; and flationed boats off the North point of the bay, to prevent a furprife from that quarter. The breach of their engagement to rcftore the bodies of the flain, and the warlike poflure, in which they, at this time, appeared, occafioned frefh debates amongft us con- cerning the meafures next to be purfued. It was, at laft, determined, that nothing fhould be fuffered to interfere with the repair of the mad, and the preparations for our departure ; but that we fhould, neverthelefs, continue our negociations for the recovery of the bodies. The grcateft part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-maft into a proper fituation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it ; and in making the necefTary alterations in the commifTions of the officers. The command of the ex- pedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed on board the Refolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be Captain of the Difcovery, and promoted Mr. Harvey, a mid- K 2 mipman, 68 A VOYAGE TO '779- ihipman, who had been with Captain Cook in his two laft voyages, to the vacant Lieutenancy. During the whole day, we met with no interruption from the natives; and, at night, the launch was again moored with a top-chain ; and guard-boats flationed round both mips as before. About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling toward the fhip ; and as foon as it was feen, both the ientinels on deck fired into it. There were two perfons in the canoe, and they immediately roared out " Ttnnee" (which was the way in which they pronounced my name), and faid they were friends, and had fomething for me be- longing to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themfelves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt, notwith- standing the balls of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One of them was the perfon, whom I have before mentioned under the name of the Taboo man, who con- stantly attended Captain Cook with the circumftances of ce- remony I have already delcribcd; and who, though a man of rank in the ifland, could fcarcely be hindered from per- forming for him the lo\veft offices of a menial fervant. After lamenting, with abundance of tears, the lofs of the Orono, he told us, that he had' brought us a part of his body. He then prefented to us a fmall bundle wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm ; and it is im- polliblc to defcribe the horror which feized us, on finding in it, a piece of human flefh, about nine or ten pounds weight. This, he faid, was all that remained of the body; that the reft was cut to pieces, and burnt ; but that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the pofleflion of Terreeoboo, and the other Erees ; that what we faw had been allotted to KaoOj the chief of -z the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 6y the priefts, to be made ufe of in fome religious ceremony ,• I779- February. and that he had fent it as a proof of his innocence and at- tachment to us. This afforded an opportunity of informing ourfelves, whether they were cannibals ; and we did not neglect it. We firft tried, by many indirect queftions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the reft of the bodies had been difpofed of; and finding them very conftant in one flory, that, after the flefh had been cut off, it was all burnt; we at laft put the direct qucftion, Whether they had not eat fome of it ? They immediately mewed as much horror at the idea, as any European would have done* and afked, very naturally, if that was the cuilom amongft us? They afterv/ard afked us, with great earneftncfs and apparent apprehenfion, " When the Orono would come again ? and what he would do to them on his return:" The fame inquiry was frequently made afterward by others > and this idea agrees with the general tenour of their con- duct toward him, which fhewed, that they confidered him as a being of a fuperior nature. We preffedour two friendly vifiters to remain on board till morning ; but in vain. They told us, that, if this tranfaction mould come to the knowledge of the king, or Chiefs, it might be attended with the mo ft fatal confequenccs to their whole fociety ; in order to prevent which, they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark ; and that the fame precaution would be neceffary in returning on fhorc. They informed us farther, that the Chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their countrymen ; and, particularly, cautioned us againfl trulling Koah, who, they laid, was our mortal and im- placable enemy ; and defired nothing more ardently, than an A VOYAGE TO '">• an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing of > *. — , the conchs, we had heard in the morning, was meant as a challenge. We learned from thefe men, that feventeen of their coun- trymen were killed in the fir ft action at Kowrowa, of whom :five were Chiefs; and that Kaneenaand his brother, our very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they faid, were killed at the obfervatory ; three of whom were alfo of the firft rank. About eleven o'clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaution to defire, that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had paffed the Difcovery, left they mould again be fired upon, -which might alarm their countrymen on more, and expofe them to the danger of being difco- vered. This requeft was complied with; and we had the fatisfaftion to find, that they got fafe and undifcovered to land. During the remainder of this night, we heard the fame loud howling and lamentations, as in the preceding one. Tuefday 16. Early in the morning, we received another vifit from Koah. J muft confefs, I was a little piqued to find, that, notwith- standing the moft evident marks of treachery in his con- duct, and the pofitive teftimony of our friends the pricfts, he mould flill be permitted to carry on the fame farce, and to make us at leaft appear to be the dupes of his hypocrify. Indeed our fnuation was become extremely awkward and unpromiung; none of the purpofes for which this pacific courfe of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto been in the leaft forwarded by it. No fatisfactory anfwer whatever had been given to our demands ; we did not feem to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the iflanders •, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 7t iflanders ; they ftill kept in force on the fhore, as if deter- '7:9- mined to refill any attempts we- might make to land ; and »- — „ — — * yet the attempt was become abfolutely necefTary, as the completing our fupply of water would not admit of any longer delay. However it muft be obferved, in juftice to the conduct of Captain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numbers of the natives, and from the refolution with which they feemed to expect us, an attack could not have been made without fome danger ; and that the lofs of a very few men might have been feverely felt by us, during the remaining courfe of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of our threats, though, on the one hand, it leffened their opinion of our prowefs, had the effect of caufing them todifperfe, on the other. For, this day, about noon, finding us perfifl in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and ufing every mode of defiance, marched off, over the hills, and never appeared afterward. Thofe, however, who remained, were not the lefs daring and infolent. One man had the audacity to con.e within mufquet-fhot, a-head of the fhip; and, after flinging feveral flones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilft his countrymen on fhore were exult- ing, and encouraging his boldnefs. Our people were all in a flame at this infult, and coming in a body on the quarter- deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with thefe repeated provocations ; and requeued me to ob- tain permiflion for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themfelves of the firfl fair occafion of revenging the death of their Commander. On my acquainting him with what was palling, he gave orders for fome great guns to be fired at the natives on fhore; and promifed the crew, that if thev fhould . V- A VOYAGE TO '•779- flioultl meet with any moleflation at the watering-place, the February. next day, they fhould then be left at liberty to chaflife them. It is fomewhat remarkable, that, before we could bring our guns to bear, the iflanders had fufpected our intentions, from the flir they faw in the fhip, and had retired behind their houfes and walls. We were therefore obliged to fire, in fome meafure, at random; notwithstanding which, our fliot produced all the effects that could have been defired. For, foon after, we faw Koah paddling toward us, with ex- treme hade, and, on his arrival, we learned, that fome people had been killed, and amongft the reft, Maiha-maiha, a principal Chief, and a near relation of the king*. Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys fwam off from the Moral toward the (hips, having each a long fpear in his hand ; and after they had approached pretty near, they be- gan to chant a fong, in a very folemn manner; the fubject of whicrC from their often mentioning the word Orono, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous difaftcr. Having fung in a plaintive drain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the wa- ter, they went on board the Difcovcry, and delivered their fpcars ; and, after making a fliort (lay, returned on more. Who fent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn. At night, the ufual precautions were taken for the fecu- rity of the lhips; and as foon as it was dark, our two * The word matte, is commonly ufed, in the language of thefe iflands, to exprefs either killing or wounding ; and we were afterward told, that this Chief had only received a Oight blow on the face from a ftonc, which had been {truck by one of the balls. friends, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 73 friends, who had vifited us the night before, came off again. „ '779- ° February. They allured us, that though the effects of our great guns, ' *■— ', this afternoon, had terrified the Chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid afide their hoftile intentions, and advifed us to be on our guard. The next morning, the boats of both mips were fent Wednef. 17. afhore for water ; and the Difcovery was warped clofe to the beach, in order to cover that fervice. We foon found, that the intelligence which the priefts had fent us, was not with- out foundation ; and that the natives were refolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without much rifk. Throughout all this group of iflands, the villages, for the moil part, are fituated near the fea ; and the adjacent ground is inclofed with ftone walls, about three feet high. Thefc, we at fiift imagined, were intended for the divifion of pro- perty ; but we now difcovered, that they ferved, and pro- bably were principally defigned, for a defence againft in- vafion. They confift of loofe ftones, and the inhabitants arc very dexterous in lhifting them, with great quicknefs, to fuch fituations, as the direction of the attack may require. In the fides of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have alio little holes, or caves, of confiderable depth, the entrance of which is fecured by a fence of the fame kind. From behind both thefe defences the natives kept perpetu- ally haraffing our waterers with ftone s ; nor could the fmall force we had on more, with the advantage of mufquets, compel them to retreat. In this expofed fituation, our people were fo taken up in attending to their own fafety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling only one ton of water. As it was there- Vol. III. L fore 74 A VOYAGE TO '779- fore impolTible to perform this fervice, till their aiTailants were driven to a greater distance, the Difcovery was ordered to cliflodge them, with her great guns ; which being effected by a few discharges, the men landed without molestation. However, the natives foon after made their appearance again, in their ufual mode of attack; and it was now found abfo- lutely neceSTary to burn down fome Straggling houfes, near the wall, behind which they had taken Shelter. In execut- ing thefe orders, I am forry to add, that our people were hurried into acts of unneceSTary cruelty and devaluation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their rcfentment of the repeated infults, and contemptuous behaviour, of the iflanders, and to the natural defire of revenging the lofs of their Commander. But, at the fame time, their conduct ferved Strongly to convince me, that the utmoft precaution is neceffary in trufting, though but for a moment, the dif- cretionary ufe of arms, in the hands of private feamen, or foldicrs, on fuch occalions. The rigour of difcipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is kept di- rected to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough to conceive, that whatever they have the power, they have alfo the right to do. Actual difobedience being almoft the only crime for which they are accullomed to expect punifhment, they learn to confider it as the only mealure of right and wrong ; and hence are apt to conclude, that what they can do with impunity, they may do with jullice and honour. So that the fcdlings of humanity, which are inseparable fiom us all, and that generofity toward an unrefifling enemy, which, at other times, is the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak rellraints to the exercife of violence, when oppofed to the defire ihey naturally have of (hewing their own independence and power. I have THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 7S I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to '779- burn only a few ftraggling huts, which afforded fhelter to \ > — j the natives. We were therefore a good deal furprized to fee the whole village on fire; and before a boat, that was fent to flop the progrefs of the. mifchief, could reach the fhore, the houfes of our old and conftant friends, the priefts, were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illnefs, that confined me on board this day. The priefts had always been under my protection ; and, unluckily, the officers who were then on duty, having been feldom on fhore at the Moral, were not much acquainted with the circumftances of the place. Had I been prefent myfelf, I might probably have been the means of faving their little fociety from deftruction. Several of the natives were fhot, in making their efcape from the flames ; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one poor iflander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was fhot at by one of the marines. The ball flruck his calibafh, which he immedi- ately threw from him and fled. He was purfued into one of the caves I have before defcribed, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage and fiercenefs ; till at laft, after having kept two of our people at bay for a confiderable time, he expired, covered with wounds. It was this accident, that firfl brought us acquainted with the ufe of thefe caverns. At this time, an elderly man was taken prifoner, bound, and fent on board in the fame boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never faw horror fo ftrongly pictured, as in the face of this man, nor fo violent a tranfition to L 2 extravagant 76 A VOYAGE TO 1779^ extravagant joy, as when he was untied, and told he might go away in fafety. He mewed us he did not want grati- tude, as he frequently afterward returned with prefents of provifions ; and alfo did us other fervices. Soon after the village was deftroyed, we faw, coming down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, plantains, &c. in their hands. I knew not how it happened, that this peaceful embafly, as foon as they were within reach, re- ceived the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not Hop them. They continued their proceffion, and the officer on duty came up, in time, to prevent a fecond dif- charge. As they approached nearer, it was found to be our much-efteemed friend Kaireekeea, who had ficd on our firft fetting fire to the village, and had now returned, and defired to be fent on board the Refolution. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him underftand the neceflity we were under of fetting fire to the village, by which his houfe, and thofe of his brethren, were uninten- tionally confumed. He cxpoflulated a little with us on our want of friendfliip, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us, that, relying on the promifes I had made them, and on the ailurances they had afterward received from the men, who had brought.us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their ef- fects back into the country, with the reft of the inhabitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a houfe clofe to the Morai, where they had the mortification to fee it all fet on fire by ourfelvcs. 5 On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 77 On coming on board, he had feen the heads of his coun- V79- trymen lying on the deck, at which he was exceedingly ,Feb_r"ary^ mocked, and dcfired, with great earneftncfs, that they mio-ht be thrown over-board. This requeft Captain Clerke inftant- ly ordered to be complied with. In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met with no farther interruption. We pa/Ted a gloomy night; the cries and lamentations we heard on more being far more dreadful than ever. Our only confolaiion was, the hope that we mould have no occafion, in future, for a repetition of fuch fevcritics. It is very extraordinary, that, amidfl: all thcfe disturbances, the women of the ifland, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor difcovcred the fmalleft apprehenfions either for thcmfclves or their friends afliore. So entirely uncon- cerned did they appear, that fomc of them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, feemed to admire the fight, and frequently cried out, that it was maitai, or very fine. The next morning, Koah came off as ufual to the mips. Thurfdayi*. As there cxiftcd no longer any neceflity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the fide of the lhip, finging hisfong, and offering me a hog, and fomc plantains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones, left his life mould pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of promife. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately on more, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting the waterers with flones. The body of the young man, who had been killed the day before, was found this 7g AVOYAGETO >779- this morning, lying at the entrance of the cave; and fame ^ e/_r)J. of our people went, and threw a mat over it. Soon after which they faw fome men carrying him off on their fhoul- ders, and could hear them Tinging, as they marched, a mournful fong. The natives, being at laft convinced that it was not the want of ability 10 punifh them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations, defifted from giving us any farther moleftation ; and, in the evening, a Chief called Eappo, who had feldom vifited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very firfl confequence, came with prefents from Terreeoboo to fue for peace. Thefe prefents were re- ceived, and he was difmiffed with the fame anfwer which had before been given, that, until the remains of Captain Cook fhould be reilored, no peace would be granted. We learned from this perfon, that the flefli of all the bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt ; that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongfl the inferior Chiefs ; and that thofe of Captain Cook had been difpofed of in the following manner : the head, to a great Chief, called Kahoo-opeon ; the hair to Maia-maia ; and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came oil' with roots and other vegetables ; and we alio received two large prefents of the fame articles from Kaireekeea. Mday i Tnc r9tn was chiefly taken up in fending and receiving the meffa-ges which palled between Captain Clcrke and Ter- lxeoboo. Eappo was very prcfling, that one of our officers ihould go on fhore ; and, in the mean time, offered to re- main as an hoftagc on board. This rcquelt, however, it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a promifc of bringing the bones the next day. At 2 the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 79 the beach, the waterers did not meet with the leaft oppofi- >779« rr February. tion from the natives ; who, notwithftanding our cautious ' w- — ». behaviour, came amongft us again, without the fmalleft appearance of diffidence or apprehenfion. Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the fatisfaction Saturday 20. of getting the fore-mad ltepped. It was an operation at- tended with great difficulty, and fome danger; our ropes being fo exceedingly rotten, that the purchafe gave way fe- veral times. Between ten and eleven o'clock, we faw a great number of people defcending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of proceffion, each man carrying a fugar-cane or two on his fhoulders, and bread-fruit, tare, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers; who, when they came to the water-fide, fat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while thofe who had fol- lowed them, advanced, one by one; and, having depofited the prefents they had brought, retired in the fame order. Soon after, Eappo came in fight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing fomething with great folemnity in his hands; and having placed himfelf on a rock, he made figns for a boat to be fent him. Captain Gierke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook which proved to be the fact, went himfelf in the pinnace to receive them ; and or- dered me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the Captain the bones wrapped up in a large quan- tity of fine new cloth, and covered with a fpotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward attended us to the Refolution j but could not be prevailed upon to go on board j g0 A VOYAGE TO board ; probably not choofing, from a fenfe of decency, to be prefent at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, ■which were well known from a remarkable fear on one of them, that di- vided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone; the fkull, but with the fcalp fepa- rated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the fcalp, with the hair upon it cut fhort, and the ears ad- hering to it ; the bones of both arms, with the fkin of the fore-arms hanging to them ; the thigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire ; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flefli left upon them, and were cut in feveral places, and crammed" with fait, apparently with an intention of preferving them. The fcalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the fkull was free from any fracture. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Kappo told us, had been feized by different Chiefs, and that Tcrrccoboo was ufing every means to re- cover them. The next morning, Eappo, and the king's fon, came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Cap- tain Cook ; the barrels of his gun, his fhoes, and fomc other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himfelf were mofl heartily dcfirous of peace ; that they had given lis the mofl convincing proof of it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving ic fooner by the other Chiefs, many of whom were flill our enemies. He lament- ed, with the grcatcft forrow, the death of fix Chiefs we had killed, fome of whom, he fa id, were amonglt our bcfl friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's Sunday 2I< THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 81 Pareea's people ; very probably in revenue for the blow that *779- 11 J * * " February. had been given him ; and that it had been broken up the < — v— — » next day. The arms of the marines, which we had alfo demanded, he allured us, had been carried off by the com- mon people, and were irrecoverable ; the bones of the Chief alone having been preferved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the Erees. Nothing now remained, but to perform the laft offices to our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dif- mifTed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and, in the after- noon, the bones having been put into a coffin, and the fer- vice read over them, they were committed to the deep with the ufual military honours. What our feelings were on this occafion, I leave the world to conceive ; thofe who were prefent know, that it is not in my power to exprefs them. During the forenoon of the 2id, not a canoe was feen Monday *&; paddling in the bay ; the taboo, which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our requeft, not being yet taken ofF. At length Eappo came off to us. We allured him, that we were now entirely fatisfied; and that, as the Orono was bu- ried, all remembrance of what had palled was buried with him. We afterward defired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known, that the people might bring their pro- vifions as ufual. The mips were foon furrounded with canoes, and many of the Chiefs came on board, cxpreffing great forrow at what had happened, and their fatisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not vifit us, fent prefents of large hogs, and other provifions. Amongft the reft came the old treacherous Koah, but was refufed admittance. Vol. 111. M As 82 AVOYAGETO '779- As we had now every thing ready for fea, Captain Clerke ■l. -"- ^ imagining, that, if the news of our proceedings fhould reach the Iflands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About eight in the evening we d if miffed all the natives ; and Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekeea, took an affectionate leave of us. We imme- diately weighed, and flood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the fhore in great numbers ; and, as we paffed along, received our lafl farewels with every mark of affection and good will. o h a r. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. % CHAP. V. Departure from Karakahooa in Search of a?i Harbcur on the South Eaft Side of Mowee. — Driven to Leeward by the Eaflerly Wtnds and Current. — Pafs the If and of Tahoorowa. — Defer iption of the South IV eft Side of Mowee. — Run along the Coafts of Ranai and Mcrotci to JVoahoo. — Defer iption of the North Eaft Co aft of Woahoo. — Unfuccefsful Attempt to water. — Paffage to Atooi. — Anchor in Wytnoa Bay. — Dangerous Si.'uarion of the Watering Party on Shore. — Civil D ffentions in the IJlands. — Vift from the contending Chiefs. — Anchor (ft Onecheow. — Final Departure from the Sandwich IJlands, WE got clear of the land about ten ; and, hoifling in I779. the boats, flood to the Northward, with an inten- Flbru""yj tion of fearching for an harbour on the South L'afl fide of Monday a*. Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the natives. The next morning we found ourfelves driven to Tuefday 23. leeward by a heavy fwell from the North Eaft ; and a frefli gale, fpringing up from the fame quarter, carried us ftill farther to the Weftvvard. At midnight we tacked, and flood to the South for four hours, in order to keep clear of the land; and, at day-break, we found ourfelves ftanding to- wednef.24. ward a fmall barren ifland, called Tahoorowa, which lies feven or eight miles to the South Weft of Mowee. M 2 All 84 A VOYAGE TO '779* All profpecr. of examining more nearly the South E'afv v — „ — j parts of Mowee being now deftroyed, we bore away, and ran along the South Eaft fide of Tahoorowa. As we were fleering clofe round its Weftern extrsmity, with an inten- tion of fetching the Weft fide of Mowee, we iuddenly fhoaled our water, and obferved the fea breaking on fome detached rocks, almoft right ahead. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we again fleered to the Northward ; and, after paffing over a bank, with nine- teen fathoms water, flood for a pafTage between Mowee and an ifland called Ranai. At noon, the latitude was, by ob- fervation, 200 42' Norths and. the longitude 2030 22' Eaft j the Southern extremity of Mowee bearing Eaft South Eaft, quarter Eaft ; the Southern extremity of Ranai Weft North Weft, quarter Weft ; Morotoi, North Weft and by North ; and the Weftern extremity of Tahoorowa, South by Eaft, feven miles diftant. Our longitude was accurately deduced, from obfervations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by a great many diftances of the moon from the fun and ftars, which were alfo obferved the fame day. In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the Weft, we flood on to the North North Weil; but, at fun-fet, obferving a fhoal, which appeared to flretch to a confiderable diflance from the Weft point of Mowee, to- ward the middle of the pafTage, and the weather being un- settled, we tacked, and flood toward the South. The South Weft fide of this ifland, which we now had pafled without being able to get near the fliore, forms the fame diftant view with the North Eaft, as feeo on our return from the North, in November 1778 ; the mountainous parts, 4 which THE PACIFIC OCEAN, Sj which are connected by a low, flat ifthmus, appearing at firft vll79\ like two feparate iflands. This deception continued on the ■ — -* South Weft fide, till we approached within eight or ten league3 of the coaft, which, bending inward, to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The Wefternmoft point, off which the fhoal we have juft mentioned runs, is made remarkable by a frnall hillock, to the Southward of which there is a fine fandy bay, with fcveral huts on the fhore, and- a number of cocoa-nut trees growing about them. During the courfe of the day, we were vifited by feveral of the natives, who came off to fell provifions ; and we foon found, that they had heard of our late unfortunate tranf- actions at Owhyhee. They were very curious to learn the particulars, from a woman who had concealed herfelf on board the Refolution, in order to take her pafFage to Atooi ; inquiring eagerly after Pareea, and fome other Chiefs, and appearing much mocked at the death of Kaneena, and his brother. We had, however, the fatisfaction to find, that, in whatever light the woman might have reprefented this bu- finefs, it had no bad ell eel: on their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and iubmiflive. The weather continued variable, during the night ; but in the morning of the 25th, having the wind at Eaft, we ran Thurfday.25. along the South fide of Ranai, till near noon ; after whichr we had calms and baffling winds till evening, when we fleered, with a light Ealterly breeze, for the Weft part of Morotoi. In the courfe of the day, the current, which, from the time we left Karakakooa Bay, had fet from the North Eaft, changed its direction to the South Eaft, During the night, the wind was again variable ; but early pm^ra*- next morning, it fettled at Eaft, and blew fo frefh, as to oblige KG A VOYAGE TO 1779- oblige us to double-reef thetopfails. At (even, on hauling v e-"-ry'_. round the Weft point of Morotoi, we opened a fmall bay, at the diflance of about two leagues, with a fine fmdy beach; but feeing no appearance of frefh water, we ftood on to the North, in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an ifland which we had feen at our firfl vifit, in January 1778. At two in the afternoon, we faw the land, bearing Weft by North, eight leagues dHlant ; and having tacked as loon as it was dark, we again bore away at day-light on the Saturday 27. 27th j and a* half pad ten, were within a league of the fhore, near the middle of the North Eait fide of the ifland. The coaft, to the Northward, is formed of detached hills, rifing perpendicularly from the fea, with ragged and broken fummits ; the fides covered with wood, and the vallies be- tween them of a fertile and well cultivated appearance. To the Southward, we faw an extenfive bay, bounded by a low point of land to the South Eaft, which was covered with cocoa-nut trees ; and off it flood a high infulated rock, about a mile from the fhore. The hazinefs of the weather prevented our feeing diftinclly the land to the Southward of the point j we could only perceive that it was high and broken. As the wind continued to blow very frefh, we thought it dangerous to entangle ourfelves with a lee -fhore; and there- fore did not attempt to examine the bay, but hauled up, and fleered to the Northward, in the direction of the coafl. At noon, we were abrcall of the North point of the ifland, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and has a reef flretching off it to the dilhmce of near a mile and a half. The latitude, by observation, 21° 50' North, longitude 2020 15' Eait i the extreme parts of the ifland in fight, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 87 fight, bearing South South Eaft, quarter Eaft, and South '779- February, Weft by South, three-quarters Weft. Between the North poinp and a diftant head-land, which we faw to the South Weft, the land bends inward confider- ably, and appeared likely to afford a good road. We there- fore directed our courfe along the fliore, at the diftance of about a mile, carrying regular foundings from twenty to thirteen fathoms. At a quarter paft two, the fight of a fine river, running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in thirteen fathoms water, with a fandy bot- tom ; the extreme points of the bay bearing South Weft by Weft half Weft, and North Eaft by Eaft three-quarters Eaft; and the mouth of the river South Eaft half Eaft, one mile diftant. In the afternoon, I attended the two Captains on fhore, where we found but few of the natives, and thofe moftly women ; the men, they told us, were gone to Mo- rotoi to fight Tahyterree ; but that their Chief Perreeoranee* who had flayed behind, would certainly vifit us, as foon as he heard of our arrival. We were much difappointed to find the water had a brackifh tafte, for two hundred yards up the river, owing to the marfhy ground through which it empties itfelf into the fea. Beyond this, it was perfectly frefh, and formed a fine running ftream, along the fide of which I walked, till 1 came to the conflux of two fmall rivulets, that branched off to the right and left of a remarkably fteep and romantic mountain. The banks of this river, and indeed the whole we faw of the North Weft part of Woahoo, are well culti- vated, and full of villages; and the face of the country is uncommonly beautiful and picturefque. 3 AS BB AVOYAGETO yri- As the watering at this place would have been attended February. _ _ i. -„ — > with great labour, I was lent to examine the coalt to lee- ward ; but not being able to land, on account of a reef of coral, which ftretched along the more to the diftance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without farther lofs of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning, we weighed, and flood to the Northward, till day-light on the Sunday 2S. 28th, when we bore away for that ifland, which we were in fight of by noon ; and about funfet, were off its Eaftern extremity, which mews itfelf in a fine, green, fiat point. It being too late to run for the road, on the South Weft fide of the ifland, where we had been the laft year, we March. pafTed the night in plying on and off, and at nine the next Monday 1. morning, came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored with the beft bower in thirty-eight fathoms, the bluff-head, on the Weft fide of the village, bearing North Eaft by North three-quarters Eaft, two miles diftant ; the extremes of the ifland, North Weft by Weft three-quarters Weft, and South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft ; the ifland Oneheow Weft by South half Weft. In running down to the road, from the South Eaft point of the ifland, we faw the appear- ance of fhoal water, in feveral places, at a confiderable diftance from the land ; and when we were about two miles to the Eaftward of the anchoring- place, and two or three miles from the fhore, we got into four and half fathoms water, although our foundings had ufually been feven and eight fathoms. We had no fooner anchored in our old ftation, than feveral canoes came along-fide of us ; but we could obferve, that they did not welcome us with the fame cordiality in their manner, and fatisfaclion in their countenances, as when we were THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 89 were here before. As foon as they got on board, one of the "779. March. men began to tell us, that we had left a diforder amongft their women, of which feveral perfons of both fexes had died. He was himfelf afflicted with the venereal difeafe, and gave a very full and minute account of the various fymptoms with which it had been attended. As there was not the flighteft appearance of that diforder amongft them on our firft arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied, that we were the authors of this irreparable mifchief. Our principal object here was to water the mips with the utmofl expedition; and I was fent on more early in the af- ternoon, with the pinnace and launch laden with cafks. The gunner of the Refolution accompanied me to trade for provilions ; and we had a guard of five marines. We found a confiderable number of people collected upon the beach, who received us at firfl with great kindnefsj but as foon as we had got the cafks on fliore, began to be exceedingly troublefome. Former experience having taught me how diflicult it was to reprefs this difpofition, without having recourfe to the authority of their Chiefs, I was very forry to find, that they were all at another part of the ifland. In- deed we foon felt the want of their afliflance ; for it was with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our ufual practice, for the convenience and fecurity of the trading party ; and had no fooner done it, and polled guards to keep ofF the crowd, than I faw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the foldiers mufquets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired ; but returned in a moment, with a fpear in one hand, and dagger in' the other ; and his countrymen had much ado to reftrain him from trying his prowefs with the foldier. This Vol. III. N fray 3° A VOYAGE TO »779< fray was occafioncd by the latter's having given the man a _.ly-0 ilight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep without the line. I now perceived, that our fituation required great circum- fpccYton and management ; and accordingly gave the ftrictcft orders, that no one fhould fire, nor have rccourfe to any other act of violence, without pofitive commands. As foon as I had given thefe directions, I was called to the aflidance of the watering party, where I found the natives equally in- clined to mifchief. They had demanded from our people a large hatchet for every cafk of water ; and this not being complied with, they would not fufFer the failors to roll them down to the boats. I had no fooncr joined them, than one of the natives ad- vanced up to me, with great infolence, and made the fame claim. I told him, that, as a friend, I was very willing to prefent him with a hatchet, but that I fhould certainly carry off the water, without paying any thing for it ; and I im- mediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their bufinefs, and called three marines from the traders to pro- tect them. Though this fliew of fpirit fuccccdcd fo far as to make the natives defirt from any open attempt to interrupt us, thev Hill continued to behave in the moll tealing and provoking manner. Whilft fome of them, under pretence of a/lifting the men in rolling down the cafks, turned them out of their courfe, and gave them a wrong direction; others we dealing the hats from off the failors heads, pulling them backward by their clothes, or tripping up their heels ; the whole crowd, all this time, (homing and laughing, with a ftrange mixture of childiflincfs and malice. They afterward found THE PACIFIC OCEAN. yi found means to fteal the cooper's bucket, and took away '779- his bag by force ; but the objects they were mod eager to v~ — „ > poflefs themfelves of, were the mufquets of the marines, who were, every inftant, complaining of their attempts to force them out of their hands. Though they continued, for the mod part, to pay great deference and refpect to me, yet they did not fuffer rac to efcape without contributing my fliare to their flock of plunder. One of them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great management di- verted my attention, whilit another, wrenching the hanger, which I held carelefly in my hand, from me, ran off with it like lightning. It was in vain to think of repelling this infolcncc by force; guarding therefore againft its effects, in the beft manner wc were able, we had nothing to do but to fubmit patiently to it. My apprehenfions were, however, a little alarmed, by the information I foon after received from the ferjeant of ma- rines, who told me, that, turning fuddenly round, he faw a man behind me holding a dagger in the pofition of mik- ing. In this he might poflibly be miflaken ; yet our fitua- tion was certainly alarming and critical, and the fmalleft error on our fide might have been fatal to us. As our people were feparated into three fmall parties, one at the lake, filling cafks ; another rolling them down to the more; and the third, at fome diftance, purchafing provifions ; it had once occurred to me, that it might be proper to collect them all together, and to execute and protect one duty at a time. But on fecond thoughts, I judged it more advifeablc to let them continue as they were. In cafe of a real attack, our whole force, however advantageoufly difpofed, could have made but a poorreliftance. On the other hand, I thought it of fome confequence to mew the natives, that we were N 2 under 92 A VOYAGE TO 1779- under no fears;' and, what was ftill more material, the crowd was, by this means, kept divided, and a confider- ablc part of them fully employed in bartering provificns. It is probable, that their dread of the effects of our arms, was the principal caufe of their backwardness in attacking us ; and indeed the confidence we appeared to place in this advantage, by oppofing only five marines to their whole force, muft have raifed in them a very high idea of our fu- periority. It was our bufinefs to keep up this opinion as much as poffible; and in juftice to the whole party, I mufl obfervc, that no men could poffibly behave better, for the purpofe of ftrengthening thefe impreflions. Whatever could be taken in jeft, they bore with the utmoft temper and pa- tience ; and whenever any ferious attempt was made to in- terrupt them, they oppofed it with bold looks and menaces. By this management, we fucceeded fo far, as to get all the caiks down to the water fide, without any material accident. While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, perceiving the opportunity of plundering would foon be over, became every moment more daring and infolent. On this occafion, I was indebted to the ferjeant of marines for iuggefting to me, the advantage that would arife from fend- ing off his party firit into the boats ; by which means, the mufquets of the foldiers, which, as I have already men- tioned, were the objects the iflanders had principally in view, would be removed out of their reach ; and in cafe of an at- tack, the marines themfelves might be employed more ef- fectually in our defence, than if they were on more. We had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr. Anderfon the gunner, a feaman of the boat's crew, and myfelf, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 93 myfelf, remained on fhore. As the pinnace lay beyond the *"79- furf, through which we were obliged to fwim, I told them to make the beft of their way to it, and that I mould follow them. With this order I -was furprized to find them both refufe to comply ; and the confequence was a conteft amongft us, who fhould be the laft on fhore. It feems, that fome hafly words I had jufl before ufed to the failor, which he thought refle&ed on his courage, was the caufe of this odd fancy in him ; and the old gunner, finding a point of honour flarted, thought he could not well avoid taking a part in it. In this ridiculous fituation we might have remained fome time, had not our difpute been foon fettled by the ftones that be- gan to fly about us, and by the cries of the people from the boats, to make haffe, as the natives were following us into the water with clubs and fpears. I reached the fide of the pinnace firfl, and finding Mr. Anderfon was at fome diftance behind, and not yet entirely out of danger, I called out to the marines, to fire one mufquet. In the hurry of execut- ing my orders, they fired two ; and when I got into the boat, I faw the natives running away, and one man, with a woman fitting by him, left behind on the beach. The man made feveral attempts to rife, without being able ; and it was with much regret, I perceived him to be wounded in the groin. The natives foon after returned, and furrounded the wounded man, brandifhing their fpears and daggers at us, with an air of threatening and defiance ; but before we reached the fhips, we faw fome perfons, whom we fuppofed to be the Chiefs, now arrived, driving them away from the fhore. During our abfence, Captain Clerke had been under the greateft anxiety for our fafety. And thefe apprchenfions were 9* A VOYAGE TO 1779- were confulcrably incrcafed, from his having entirely mif- * ch . i_ '.- '_/ taken the drift of the converfation he had held with fome natives who had been on board. The frequent mention of the name of Captain Cook, with other Strong and circum- stantial descriptions of death and destruction, made him conclude, that the knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhce had reached them, and that thefe were what they alluded to ; whereas all they had in view was, to make known to him the wars that had arifen, in confequence of the goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the flaughtcr of the poor goats themfelves, during the Struggle for the property of them. Captain Clerke, applying this earneftnefs of converfation, and thefe terrible representa- tions, to our calamitous transactions at Owhyhee, and to ah, indication of revenge, kept his telefcope fixed upon us, and the moment he faw the fmoke of the mufquets, ordered the boats to be manned and armed, and to put off to our affi Stance. Tuefday 2. The next morning, I was again ordered on fhore, with the watering party. The rifk we had run the preceding day determined Captain Clerke to fend a considerable force from both mips for our guard, amounting in all to forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was now unnecef- fary ; for we found the beach left entirely to ourfelves, and the ground between the landing place and the lake, tabooed with Small white flags. \Yc. concluded, from this appear- ance, that fome of the Chiefs had certainly vifitcd this quar- ter ; and that, not being able to ftay, they had kindly and confiderately taken this ftep, for our greater Security and convenience. We faw Several men armed with long Spears . and daggers, on the other lide of the river, on our right ; but they did not offer to give us the leaft molcStation. Their women THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 95 women came over, and fat down on the banks clofe by us, T779- J March. and at noon we prevailed on fomeof the men to bring hogs < — -v— * and roots for our people, and to drefs them for us. As foon as we had left the beach, they came down to the fea-fide, and one of them threw a ftone at us ; but his conduct feem- ing to be highly difapproved of by all the reft, we did not think it proper to fhew any refentment. The next day, we completed our watering, without meet- WedneC 3. ing with any material difficulty. On our return to the fhips> we found that fcveral Chiefs had been on board, and had made excufes for the behaviour of their countrymen, at- tributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels which fub- fifted at that time amongft the principal people of the ifland, and which had occafioncd a general want of order and fub- ordination amongft them. The government of Atooi was in difpute between Toneoneo, who had the fupreme power when we were here laft year, and a boy named Teavee* They are both, by different fathers, the grandfons of Per- reeorannee, king of Woahoo, who had given the govern- ment of Atooi to the former, and that of Onecheow to the latter. The quarrel had arifen about the goats we had left at Oneeheow the laft year ; the right of property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence of that ifland's being a dependency of his. The friends of Teavce infill- ing on the right of pofTemon, both parties prepared to main: tain their pretenfions by force; and, a few days before our arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been wonted. The confequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo in a much deeper manner than by the mere lofs of the objects in difpute *, for the mother of Teavee, having married a fecond hufband, who was a Chief, of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he t ho light; j. L S6 AVOYAGETO «779- thought that the prefent opportunity was not to be neglected, ■ ' -» of driving Toneoneo entirely out of the ifland, and of advan- cing his fon-in-law to the government. I have already had occafion to mention, that the goats, which had increafed to the number of fix, and would, probably, in a few years, have flocked all thefe iflands, were deftroyed in the conteft. Thurfday4. On the 4th, the mother and filler of the young prince and his father-in-law, with many other Chiefs of that party, came on board the Refolution, and made feveral curious and valuable prefents to Captain Clerke. Amongft the former, were fome fifh-hooks, which they affurcd us were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo's father, who had been killed in an unfuccefsful defcent upon the ifland of Woahoo ; and a fly flap, prefented to him by the prince's filter, the handle of which was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as we were told, in performing fome religious ceremonies, in confe- quence of the victory he had obtained, which were to laft twenty days. Friday ^. This, and the two following days, were employed on fhore, in completing the Difcovery's water ; and the car- penters were bufy on board, in caulking the fliips, and in making other preparations for our next cruife. The na- tives defiflcd from giving us any further diflurbancc; and we procured from them a plentiful fupply of pork and ve- getables. At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the Difcovery to be fafhioned into the ihape of a fahooa. It was carefully examined both by the officers and men, and appeared to be the bolt of fome large fhip timbers. 2 They Saiuru.'.y 6. ^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 97 They were not able to difcover to what nation it belonged ; J779- but from the pale colour * of the iron, and its not corre- fponding in fhape to our bolts, they concluded that it cer- tainly was not Engliih. This led them to make a flrict in- quiry of the native, when and where he got it ; and if they comprehended him right, it had been taken out of a piece of timber, larger than the cable bit, to which he pointed. This piece of wood, they farther underftood from him to have been driven upon their ifland, fince wc were here in January 1778. On the 7th, we were furprized with a vifit from Toneo- Sunday neo. When he heard the dowager princefs was in the ihip, it was with great difficulty we could prevail on him to come on board, not from any apprehenfion that he appeared to entertain of his fafety, but from an unwillingnefs to fee her. Their meeting was with fulky and lowering looks on both fides. He ftaid but a fhort time, and feemed much dejecled ; but we remarked, with fome furprize, that the women, both at his coming and going away, proftrated themfelves before him ; and that he was treated by all the natives on board with the refpeet ufually paid to thofe of his rank. Indeed, it mud appear fomewhat extraordinary, that a perfon, who was at this time in a ftate of actual hoftility with Teavee's party, and was even prepared for another battle, fhould truft himfelf almoft alone within the power of his enemies. It is, therefore, to be obferved, that the civil diflentions, which are very frequent throughout all the South Sea Iflands, feem to be carried on without much acri- mony or bloodfhed ; and that the depofed governor ftill continues to enjoy the rank of an Erec^ and is left to make * It was evident, that the iron we found in pofleflion of the natives at Nootka Sound, and which was moftly made into knives, was of a much paler fort than ours. Vol. III. O ufe 5>8 A VOYAGE TO '779- March. Monday B. Tuesday g. ufe of fuch means as may arife for the regaining his lofl confequence. But I fhall have occafion to fpeak more par- ticularly on this fubjecl: in the next chapter ; in which the bell account will be given, which we were able to collect, of the political flate of thofe countries. On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and failed toward Oneeheow ; and, at three in the afternoon, anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the fame fpot as in the year 177S. We moored with the other anchor in twenty-fix fathoms water. The high bluff, on the South end of the ifland, bore Eafl South Ealt ; the North point of the road, North half Eaft ; and a bluff head to the South of it, North Eafl by North. During the night, we had a ftrong gale from the Eaftward ; and, in the morning of the 9th, found the fhip had driven a whole cable's length, and brought both anchors almofl ahead. We fhortcned in the bell bower cable ; but the wind blowing too frefh to un- \vedn?f. 10. rnoor, we were obliged to remain this and the two follow- Thurfdayn. ° ing days, with the anchors ftill ahead. Friday iz. On the 1 2th, the weather being moderate, the mafler was fent to the North Weft fide of the ifland, to look for a more convenient place for anchoring. He returned in the even- ing, having found, clofe round the Weft point of the road where we now lay, which is alfo the Weflernmofl point of • . ifland, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen fa- thoms water, a clear fandy bottom, not a mile from the beach, on whiclT the furf beats, but not fo as to hinder landing. The direction of the points of the bay were North I, and South by Well; and, in that line, the found- ings feven, eight, and nine fathoms. On the North fide or the bay was a fmall village; and a quarter of a mile to the THE. PACIFIC OCEAN. 99 the Eaflward were four fmall wells of good water ; the »779« road to them level, and fit for rolling cafks. Mr. Bligh went afterward fo far to the North as to fatisfy himfelf, that Oreehoua was a feparate ifland from Oneeheow ; and that there was a paffage between them} which, before, we only conjectured to exift. In the afternoon we hoifled in all the boats3 and made, ready for going to fea in the morning. O a € H A P. i and the adjacent Country. — Volcanic Appearances. — Snowy Mowitains. — Their Height determined, — Account of a jfourney into the interior Parts of the Country. — Mo wee. TaHOOROWA. MOROTOI. R AN AI. WoAHOO.— Atooi. — Oneeheow. — Oreehoua. — Tahoora. — Cli- mate.— Winds. — Currents. — Tides. — Animals a?id Ve- getables . — Ajlronomical Obfervations. J.779- A Swc are now about to take our final leave of the Sand- ■L\. wich Illands, it will not be improper to introduce here fome general account of their fituation and natural hiftory, and of the manners and cultoms of the inhabitants. This fubjeet has indeed been, in fome meafure, pre- occupied by perfons far more capable of doing it juftice, than I can pretend to be. Had Caprain Cook and Mr. An- derfon lived to avail themfelves of the advantages which we enjoyed by a return to thefe iiiands, it cannot be quef- tioned, that the Public would have derived much additional information from the fkill and diligence of two fuch ac- curate oblcrvers. The reader will therefore lament with me our common misfortune, which hath deprived him of the la- bours of (uch fuperior abilities, and impofed on me the tafk ,of prefenting him with the befl. fupplementary account the various duties of my ilation permitted me to furnifli. This THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ioi ' This group confifls of eleven iflands, extending in lati- '779- tude from i8°54' to 220 15' North; and in longitude from 199° 36' to 2050 06' Eaft. They are called by the natives; 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or Oranai. 4. Moro- tinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahovvrowee, or Tahoorowa. 6. Morotoi, or Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and fometimes Kowi *. 9. Neeheehow, orOneeheow. 10. Oreehoua, or Reehoua; and, 11. Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and Tahoora. Befides the iflands above enumerated, we were told by the Indians, that there is another called Modoopapapa-j-, or Ko- modoopapapa, lying to the Weft South Weft of Tahoora, which is low and fandy, and vifited only for the purpofe of catching turtle and fea-fowl; and, as I could never learn that they knew of any others, it is probable that none exift in their neighbourhood. They were named by Captain Cook the Sandwich Iflands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, under whofe administra- tion he had enriched geography with fo many fplendid and important difcoveries -, a tribute juftly due to that noble perfon for the liberal fupport thefe voyages derived from his power, in whatever could extend their utility, or pro- mote their fuccefs ■, for the zeal with which he feconded the views of that great navigator ; and, if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the generous pro- tection, which, fince the death of their unfortunate com- mander, he has afforded all the officers that ferved under him, Owhyhee, the Eafternmoft, and by much the largeft, of thefe iflands, is of a triangular fhape, and nearly equilate- * It is to be obferved, that, among the windward Iflands, the k is ufed inftead of the /, as Morokoi inftead of Morotoi, Sec. t Modoo fignifies ifland ; papapa, flat. This ifland is called Tammatapappa, by Captain Cook, vol. II. p. 222. ral. jo2 A VOYAGE TO »77* ral. The angular points make the North, Eaft, and South i_ -.- _f extremities, of which the Northern is in latitude 200 17' North, longitude 204° 02' Eaft : the Eaftern in latitude 190 34/ North, longitude 2050 06' Eaft : and the Southern extremity in latitude 180 54' North, longitude 204* 15' Eaft. Its great- eft length, which lies in a direction nearly North and South, is 28-'- leagues ; its breadth is 24 leagues ; and it is about 255 geographical, or 293 Englifli miles, in chcumference. The whole iiland is divided into fix large diftrkts ; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie on the North Eaft fide ; Apoona and Kaoo on the South Eaft j Akona and Koaarra on the Weft. The diftricts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are feparated by a mountain called Mouna Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rifes in three peaks, perpetually covered with fnow, and may be clearly feen at 40 leagues diftancc To the North of this mountain the coaft confifts of high and abrupt cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cafcades of water. We were once flattered with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head, in latitude 200 io' North, and longitude 2040 26' Eaft: but, on doubling the point, and (landing clofe in, we found it connected by a low valley, with another high head to the North Weft. The country riles inland with a gentle afcent, is interfered by deep narrow glens, or rather chafms, and appeared to be wel^ cultivated and lprinkled over with a number of villages. The Ihowy mountain is very ftecp, and the lower part of it co- vered with wood. The coaft of Aheedoo, which lies to the South of Mouna Kaah, is of a moderate height, and the interior pans appear more even than the country to the North Weft, and lefs bro- ken by ravines. Off" thefe two diftricts we cruized for al- 2 mod THE PACIFIC OCEAN. hm a rnoft a month; and, whenever our diftance from fhore ,'77> Marci. would permit it, were fure of being farrounded by canoes < , — laden with all kinds of refrefhments. We had frequently a very heavy fea, and great fwell on this fide of the ifland, and as we had no foundings, and could obferve much foul ground off the fhore, we never approached nearer the land than two or three leagues, excepting on the occafion al- ready mentioned. The coaft to the North Eaft of Apoona, which forms the Eaftern extremity of the ifland, is low and flat ; the acclivity of the inland parts is very gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the fined part of the ifland, and we were afterward told that the king had a place of refidence here. At the South Weft extremity the hills rife abruptly from the fea-fide, leaving but a narrow border of low- ground toward the beach. We were pretty near the fhore at this part of the ifland, and found the fides of the hills co- vered with a fine verdure; but the country feemed to be very thinly inhabited. On doubling the Earl point of the ifland, we came in fight of another fnowy mountain, called Mouna Roa (or the extenfive mountain), which continued to be a very confpicuous object all the while we were failing along the South Eaft fide. It is flat at the top, making what i3 called by mariners table-land : the fummit was conftantly buried in fnow, and we once faw its fides alfo flightly cover- ed for a confiderable way down ; but the greatcft part of this difappeared again in a few days. According to the tropical line of fnow, as determined by Mr. Condamine, from obfervations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain muft be at leaft 16,020 feet high, which ex- ceeds 104 A VOYAGE TO 1779- ceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of Teneriffe, ^ / ' . by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's computation, or 3680, according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of MounaKaah appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely covered with mow, the altitude of their fummits cannot be lefs than 18,400 feet. But it is pro- bable that both thefe mountains may be considerably higher. For, in infular fituations, the effects of the warm feaair muft necefTarily remove the line of mow, in equal latitudes, to a greater height than where the atmofphere is chilled on all fides by an immenfe tract of perpetual fnow. The coaft of Kaoo prefents a profpect of the moft horrid and dreary kind : the whole country appearing to have un- dergone a total change from the effects of fome dreadful convulfion. The ground is every where covered with cin- ders, and interfered in many places with black ftreaks, which feem to mark the courfc of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the mountain Roa to the more. The Southern promontory looks like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is compofed of broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in fharp points. Notwithstanding the difmal afpect of this part of the aland, there are many villages fcattered over it, and it certainly is much more populous than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumflance hard to be accounted for. As thefe iflanders have no cattle, they have confequently no ufe for pafluragc, and therefore naturally prefer fuch ground, as cither lies more convenient for fifhing, or is bed fuitcd to the cultivation of yams and plantains. Now amidft thefe ruins, there are many patches of rich foil, which are care- 3 fullv THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 105 fully laid out in plantations, and the neighbouring fea T77 tween the two huts, they could yet fleep but very little; and were obliged to walk about the greatefl part of the night. Their elevation was now probably pretty confide;- - able, as the ground on which they had travelled had been generally on the afcent. On the 29th, at day-break, they fet out, intending to make their laft and utmoft efFort to reach the fnowy mountain; but their fpirits were much deprefTed, when they found they had expended the miferable pittance of water they had found the night before. The path, which extended no far- ther than where canoes had been built, was now at an end ; . and they were therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every now and then climbing up into the highefl trees, to explore the country round. Ac eleven o'clock, they came to a ridge of burnt ftones, from the top of which they faw the fnowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve or fourteen miles from them, . It was here deliberated, whether they mould proceed any further, or reft fatisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Roa. The road, ever fince the path ceafed, had be- come exceedingly fatiguing; and, every moment they ad- vanced, was growing ftill more fo. The deep chinks, with which the ground was every where broken, being nightly covered ii2 AVOYAGETO '779- covered with mofs, made them flumble at almoft every Tvlarch. ' ftep ; and the intermediate fpacc was a furface of loofe burnt flones, which broke under their feet like potfherds. They threw flones into fevcral of thefe chinks ; which, by the noife they made, feemed to fall to a confiderable depth, and the ground founded hollow under their feet. Befides thefe difcouraging circumflances, they found their guides fo averfe to going on, that they believed, what- ever their own determinations might have been, they could not have prevailed on them to remain out another night. They, therefore, at laft agreed to return to the mips, after taking a view of the country, from the higheft trees which the place afforded. From this elevation they faw them- felves furrounded, on all fides, with wood toward the fea ; they could not diftinguifli, in the horizon, the fky from the water ; and between them and the fnowy moun- tain, was a valley about feven or eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill of a moderate iizc. They retted this night at a hut in the fecond wood, and on the 30th, before noon, they had got clear of the firft, and found thcmfelves about nine miles to the North Eaft of the ihips, toward which they directed their march through the plantations. As they palled along, they did not obferve a fingle fpot of ground, that was capable of improvement, left implanted ; and, indeed, it appeared, from their account, hardly poflible for the country to be cultivated to greater advantage for the purpoies of the inhabitants, or made to yield them a larger fupply of neceffaries for their fubfift- ence They were furprized to meet with fevcral fields of hay; and on inquiring to what ufes it was applied, were told, it was defigned to cover the young (arrow grounds, in order THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 113 order to preferve them from being fcorched by the fun. '779- They faw a few fcattered huts amongft the plantations, which fcrved for occafional fhelter to the labourers ; but no villages at a greater diftance than four or five miles from the fea. Near one of them, about four miles from the bay, they found a cave, forty fathoms long, three broad, and of the fame height. It was open at both ends; the fides were fluted, as if wrought with a chiffel, and the furface glazed over, probably by the action of fire. Having given this account of the mod material cir- cumftanccs that occurred on the expedition to the fnowy mountain, I mail now return to the other iflands that remain to be defcribed. The ifland next in fize, and neareft in fituation, to Owhy- hee, isMowee ; which lies at the diftance of eight leagues North North Weft from the former, and is 140 geographical miles in circumference. A low ifthmus divides it into two circular peninfulas, of which that to the Eaft is called Wham ad 00a, and is double the fize of the Weftern penin- fula called Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rife to an exceeding great height, having been feen by us at the dif- tance of upward of thirty leagues. The Northern mores, like thofe of Owhyhee, afford no foundings ; and the coun- try prefents the fame appearance of verdure and fertility. To the South Eaft, between this and the adjacent iiles, we had regular depths with a hundred and fifty fathoms, with a fandy bottom. From the Weft point, which is low, runs a flioal, ftretching out toward Ranai, to a confiderablc dif- tance; and to the Southward of this, is a fine fpacious bay, with a fandy beach, fhaded with cocoa-nut trees. It is pro- bable that good anchorage might be found here, with fliel- VOL. HI. Q^ ter x,4 AVOYAGETO '779- ter from the prevailing winds, and that the beach affords a. convenient place for landing. The country behind prefents a moll romantic appearance. The hills rife almoft perpen- dicularly, in a great variety of peaked forms ; and their fteep fides, and the deep chafms between them, are covered with trees, amongft which thofe of the bread-fruit were obferved particularly to abound. The tops of thefe hills are entirely bare, and of a reddifh. brown colour. We were in- formed by the natives, that there is an harbour to the Southward of the Eaft point, which they affirmed to be fuperiour to that of Karakakooa ; and we were alfo told, that, on the North Weft fide, there was another harbour, called Keepoo-keepoo. Tahoorowa is a fmall ifland lying off the South Weft part of Mowee, from which it is diftant three leagues. This ifland is deftitute of wood, and the foil feems to be fandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee lies the fmall urn- inhabited ifland Morrotinnee. Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the Weft North Weft. The South Weftern coaft, which was the only part near which we approached, is very low ; but the land rifes backward to a confiderable height ; and, at the diftance from which we faw it, appeared to be entirely without wood. Its produce, we were told, confifts chiefly of yams. It may, probably, have frefh water, and, on the South and Weft fides, the coaft forms feveral bays, that pro- mife good flicker from the trade winds. Ranai is about three leagues diftant from Mowee and Mo- rotoi, and lies to the South Weft of the paffage between thefe iflands. The country, to the South, is high and craggy ; but the other parts of the ifland had a better af- 8 peft, TH.E PACIFIC OCEAN. 115 pect, and appeared to be well inhabited. We were told that '"9- r 11 r March. it produces very few plantains, and bread-fruit trees ; but that it abounds in roots, fuch as yams, fweet potatoes, and tarrow. Woahoo lies to the North Weft of Morotoi, at the diflance of about feven leagues. As far as we could judge, from the appearance of the North Eafl and North Weft parts (for we faw nothing of the Southern fide), it is by far the fineft ifland of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and rich culti- vated vallies, which the whole face of the country dis- played. Having already given a defcription of the bay, formed by the North and Weft extremities, in which we came to anchor, I have only to oblerve, that in the bight of the bay, to the South of the anchoring-place, we found rocky foul ground, two miles from the more. Should the ground tackling of a fhip be weak, and the wind blow itrong from the North, to which quarter the road is entirely open, this circumftance might be attended with fome dan- ger ; but with good cables there would be little rifk, as the ground from the anchoring-place, which is oppofite to the valley through which the river runs, to the North point, is a fine fand. Atooi lies to the North Weft of Woahoo, and is diflant from it about twenty-five leagues. The face of the country, to the North Eaft and North Weft, is broken and ragged ; but to the South it is more even ; the hills rife with a gen- tle flope from the fea-fide, and, at fome diftance back, are covered with wood. Its productions are the fame with thofe of the other iflands; but the inhabitants far furpafs all the neighbouring iilanders in the management of their plant- Q^2 ations. no A VOYAGE TO 1779- ations. In the low grounds, adjoining to the bay where we lay at anchor, thefe plantations were divided by deep and regolar ditches ; the fences' were made with a neatnefs approaching to elegance, and the roads through them were thrown up and finished, in a manner that would have done credit to any European engineer. Oneeheow lies five leagues to the Weflward of Attooi. The Eaftern coaft is high, and rifes abruptly from the fea, but the reft of the iiland confifts of low ground; excepting a round bluff head on the South Eaft point. It produces abundance of yams, and of the fv/eet root called Tee; but we got from it no other fort of provifions. Oreehoua, and Talioora, are two fmall iflands in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow. The former is a fingle high hummock, joined by a reef of coral rocks to the North- ern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the South. Eaft, and is uninhabited. The climate of the Sandwich Iflands differs very little from that of the Weft India Iflands, which lie in the fame latitude. Upon the whole, perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer, on more in Karakakooa Bay,, never rofe higher than 88°, and that but one day ; its mean height, at noon, was 830. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was 76*, and when out at fea, 75*. The mean height of the thermometer at noon, in Jamaica, is about 86% at fea 8o°. Whether they be fubjccl: to the fame violent winds and hurricanes, we could not difcover, as we were not there in any of the ftormy months. However, as the natives gave us no pofnive tcftimony of the fact, and no traces of their effects were any where vifiblc, it is probable that, in this rcfpccT, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. n7 refpect, they refemble the Society and Friendly Iflands, '779- , . , - March. which are, in a great meafurc, free from thefe dreadful vi- sitations. During the four winter months that we remained amongft thefe iflands, there was more rain, efpecially in the interior parts, than ufually falls during the dry feafon in the iflands of the Weft Indies. We generally faw clouds collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to leeward ; but after they are feparated from the land by the wind, they difperfe, and are loft, and others fucceed in their place- This happened daily at Owhyhee : the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a cloud ; fucccflive fhowers falling in the inland country; with fine weather, and a clear fky at the fea-fhore. The winds in general were, from Eaft South Eafl to North Eaft; though this fometimes varied a few points each way to the North and South ; but thefe were light, and of fhort duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa, we had a conflant land and fea-breeze every day and night. The currents feemed very uncertain ; fometimes fetting to windward; and, at other times, to leeward, without any re- gularity. They did not appear to be governed by the winds., nor any other caufe that I can aflign : they frequently fet to windward againft a frefh breeze. The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing fix hours each. The flood comes from the Eafhvard ; and it is high water at the full and change of the moon, forty-five mi- nutes paft three, apparent time. Their greateft rife is two feet feven inches ; and we always obferved the water to be four inches higher when the moon was above the horizon, than when it was below. 7 Th^ ixf: A V O Y A G E T O 9: The quadrupeds in thefe, as in all the other iflands that have been difcovered in the South fea, are confined to three forts, dogs, hogs, and rats. The dogs are of the fame fpe- cies with thofe of Otaheite, having fhort crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not obferve any variety in them, except in their fkins ; fome having long and rough hair, and others being quite fmooth. They are about the fize of a common turnfpit ; exceedingly fluggiih in their nature ; though perhaps this may be more owing to the manner in which they are treated, than to any natural dif- poiition in them. They are, in general, fed, and left to herd, with the hogs ; and I do not recollect one inftance in which a dog was made a companion in the manner we do in Europe. Indeed, the cuftom of eating them is an infu- perable bar to their admiilion into fociety, and as there are neither beafts of prey in the ifland, nor objects of chace, it is probable, that the focial qualities of the dog, its fide- lity, attachment, and fagacity, will remain unknown to the natives. The number of dogs in thefe iflands did not appear to be nearly equal, in proportion, to thofe in Otaheite. But on the other hand, they abound much more in hogs ; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The fupply of provifions of this kind, which we got from them, was really afloniihing. We were near four months, either cruifing off the coaft, or in harbour at Owhyhcc. During all this time, a large allowance of frcfli pork was conftantly fcrved to both crews : fo that our confumption was computed at about iixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Befides this, and the incredible waftc which, in the midft of fuch plenty, was not to be guarded againft, fixty puncheons more were failed for fea florc. The greater! part of this fupply was drawn THE PACIFIC OCEAN, i 13 drawn from the hland of Owhyhee alone, and yet we could *p& ' ' March* not perceive that it was at all drained, or even that the abun- dance had any way decreafed. The birds of thefe iflands are as beautiful as any we have feen during the voyage, and are numerous, though not va- rious. There are four, which feem to belong to the trocb'itt, or honey-fuckers of Linnaeus ; one of which is fomething larger than a bullfinch ; its colour is a fine gloffy black, the rump-vent and thighs a deep yellow. It is called by the na- tives hoohoo. Another is of an exceeding bright fcarlet co- lour; the wings black, and edged with white ; and the tail black ; its native name is eeeeve. A third, which feems to be either a young bird, or a variety of the foregoing, is va- riegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is en- tirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called aka'iearooa* There is a fpecies of thrum, with a grey breaft ; and a fmall bird of the flycatcher kind} a rail, with very fhort wings and no tail, which, on that account, we named rallus ecau- thtus. Ravens are found here, but they are very fcarce ; their colour is dark brown, inclining to black ; and their note is different from the European. Here are two fmall birds, both of one genus, that are very common; one is red, and generally feen about the cocoa-nut trees, particu- larly when they are in flower, from whence it feems to de- rive great part of its fubfiftence ; the other is green; the tongues of both are long and ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a yellow head, which, from the ftructure of its beak, we called a parroquet, is likewifc very common. It, however, by no means belongs to that tribe, but greatly refembles the kxia favlcans, or yellowifli. crofs-bill of Linnazus. Hers j2o AVOYAGETO >779- Here are alfo owls, plovers of two forts, one very like March. . r J ■ y. — v—^j the whittling plover of Europe ; a large white pigeon ; a bird with a long tail, whofe colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much longer than is ufually feen in the generality of birds, except the birds of paradife) are yellow ; and the common water or darker hen. Their vegetable productions are nearly the fame with the reft of the South-fea illands. I have before mentioned, that the tarroiv root is much fuperiourto any we had before tafted, and that we attributed this excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees thrive here, not in fuch abundance, but produce double the quantity of fruit they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the fame height, but the branches begin to ftrike out from the trunk much lower, and with greater luxu- riance. Their fugar-canes are alfo of a very unufual fize. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, meafuring eleven inches and a quarter in circumference ; and having fourteen feet eatable. At Oncehcow they brought us feveral large roots of a brown colour, fhaped like a yam, and from fix to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it yields in great abundance, is very fwect, and of a pleafant tafte, and was found to be an excellent fubftitiue for fugar. The natives are very fond of it, and ufc it as an article of their common diet ■, and our people alfo found it very palatable and wholefome. We could not learn to what fpecics of plant it belonged, having never been able to procure the leaves ; but it was fuppofed, by our botanifts, to be the root of fome kind of fern. Agreeably THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 121 Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I fhall fubjoin *779- an abftraet of the aftronomical obfervations which were made at the obfervatory in Karakakooa Bay, for determin- ing its latitude and longitude, and for finding the rate and error of the time-keeper. To thefe are fubjoined the mean variation of the compafs, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a table of the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Iflands. The latitude of the obfervatory, deduced from meridian zenith diftances of the fun, eleven ftars to the South, and four ftars to the North of the zenith 190 28' o" North. The longitude of the obfervatory, de- duced from 253 fets of lunar obferva- tions; each fet confiding of fix ob- ferved diftances of the fun from the moon, or ftars ; 14 of the above fets were only taken at the obfervatory, 105 fets being taken whilft cruizing off Owhyhce ; and 154 fets, when at Atooi and Oneehcow ; all thefe being reduced to the obfervatory, by means of the time-keeper - - 204° o' o" EarL The longitude of the obfervatory, by the time-keeper, on the 19th January 1779, according to its rate, as found at Greenwich - - - 214" yr 1 5" Eaft. The longitude of the obfervatory, by the time-keeper, on the 19th January 1779, according to its rate, corrected at different places, and laft at Samga- noodha Harbour, in Oonalafchka - 203* 3.7' 22" Eaft. Vol. Ill, R The 122 A VOYAGE TO i779« March. 8* 6' o" Eaft. The daily rate of the time-keeper loflng on mean time, was 9", 6 ; and on the 2d February 1779, it was 1411 41' 1" flow for mean time. The variation of the compafs, by azi- muths obferved on fhore, with four different compafles The variation of the compafs, by azi- muths, obferved on board the Refolu- tion, with four different compaffes - f Dip of the North pole of ( Balanced needle ") 40 the magnetic needle. Unbalanced or I on fhore, with [ plain needle J 40* 41' 15". Dip of the North pole of ) , • „ 'Balanced needle? 41 50 ° the magnetic needle i > » , « _k_^ „,;,K Unbalanced needle i 40 3° 45 32' 22' o" Eaft. SO on board, with T A 'TabU of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich IJlands. Owhyhee Mowee The North point South point Eaft point Karakakooa Bay f Eaft point ready obferved, that they bear ftrong marks of affinity to v. — *— « r fome of the Indian tribes, that inhabit die Ladrones and Ca- roline Iflands ; and the fame affinity may again be traced amongft the Battas and the Malays. When thefe events happened, is not fo eafy to afcertain ; it was probably not very lately, as they are •extremely populous, and have no tradition of their own origin, but what is perfectly fabulous ; whilft, on the other hand, the unadulterated ftate of their general language, and the fimplicity which ftill prevails in their cuftoms and manners, feem to indicate, that it could not have been at any very diftant period. The natives of thefe iflands are, in general, above the middle fize, and well made ; they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing great fatigue ; though, upon the whole, the men arc fome what inferior, in point of ftrength and activity, to the Friendly iflanders, and the women lefs delicately limbed than thofe of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather darker than that of the Otaheite- ans, and they are not altogether fo handfome a people *. However, many of both fexes had fine open countenances; and the women, in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a fweetnefs and fenfibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their hair is of a brownifli black, and neither uniformly ftraight, like, that of the Indians of Ame- rica, nor uniformly curling, as amonglt the African ne- groes, but varying, in this refpeift, like the hair of Europe- ans. One ftriking peculiarity, in the features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have Teen any * The annexed print of a man of Sandwich I/lands, was taken from a portrait of our friend Kancena, where March. , J l26 A VOYAGE TO 1779. where mentioned j which is* that, even in the handfomeft faces, there is always a fulnefs of the noftril, without any flatnefs or fpreading of the nofe, that diftinguifhjs them from Europeans. It is not improbable that this may be the effect of their ufual mode of falutation, which is performed by prefling the ends of their nofes together. The fame fuperiority that is obfervable in the perfons of the Ereesy through all the other iilands, is found alfo here. Thofe whom we favv -were, without exception, perfectly well formed ; whereas the lower fort, befides their general inferiority, are fubject to all the variety of make and figure that is feen in the populace of other countries, lnflances of deformity are more frequent here, than in any of the other iilands. Whilft we were cruifing off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, one an old man, four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and the other a wo- man, nearly of the fame height. We afterward faw three natives, who were hump-backed, and a young man, born without hands or feet. Squinting is alfo very common amongft them ; and a man, who, they faid, had been born blind, was brought to us to be cured. Befides thefe parti- cular imperfections, they are, in general, very fubject to boils and ulcers, which we attributed to the great quantity of fait they eat with their flefh and fifh. The Erees are very free from thefe complaints; but many of them fuffer ftill more dreadful effects from the immoderate ufe of the ava. Th.;fe who were the mod affeaed by it, had their bodies co- vered with a white fcuxf, their eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciate-, the whole frame trembling and paralytic, accompanied with a difability to raife the head. Though this drug docs not appeal univerfally to fhorten life, as was evident THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 127 evident from the cafes of Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and fome other w* March. Chiefs, who were very old men ; yet it invariably brings on v t — ^ an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate, that the ufe of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the Chiefs. The young fon of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, ufed to boaft of his being admitted to drink ava, and mewed us, with great triumph, a final! fpot in his fide that was growing fcaly. There is fomething very Angular in the hiflory of this pernicious drug. When Captain Cook firft vifited the So- ciety Iflands, it was very little known among them. On his fecond voyage, he found the ufe of it vety prevalent at Ulietea ; but it had ftill gained very little ground at Otaheite. When we were laft there, the dreadful havock it had made was beyond belief, infomuch that the Cap- tain fcarce knew many of his old acquaintances. At the Friendly Iflands, it is alfo conftantly drunk by the Chiefs, but fo much diluted with water, that it docs not appear to produce any bad effects. At Atooi, alfo, it is ufed with great moderation, and the Chiefs are, in confe- quence, a much finer fet of men there, than in any of the neighbouring iflands. We remarked, that, by difcontinu- ing the ufe of this root, the noxious effects of "it foon wore off. Our good friends, Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were perfuaded by us to refrain from it; and they recovered amazingly during the fhort time we afterward remained in the ifland. It may be thought extremely difficult to form any pro- bable conjectures refpeeting the population of iflands, with many parts of which we are but imperfectly ac- 2 quainted. l88 A V O Y A G E T O »779- quaintcd. There arc, however, two circumftances, that ■ "-[c '_. take away much of this objection ; the firft is, that the interior parts of the country are entirely uninhabited; fo that, if the number of the inhabitants along the coaft be known, the whole will be pretty accurately determined. The other is, that there are no towns of any confider- able fize, the habitations of the natives being pretty equally difperfed in fmali villages round all their coafts. It is on this ground that I mail venture at a rough calculation of the number of perfons in this group of iflands. The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and contains four villages of about eighty houfes each ; upon an average, in all three hundred and twenty ; befides a number of ftraggling houfes ; which may make the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the frequent opportunities I had of informing myfelf on this head, I am convinced, that fix perfons to a houfe is a very moderate allowance ; fo that, on this calculation, the coun- try about the bay contains two thoufand one hundred fouls. To thefe may be added fifty families, or three hundred perfons, which I conceive to be nearly the number em- ployed in the interior parts of the country amongft their plantations; making in all two thoufand four hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied to the whole extent of coaft round the iftand, deducting a quarter for the unin- habited parts, it will be found to contain one hundred and fifty thoufand. By the fame mode of calculation, the reft of the iflands will be found to contain the following num- bers : - Owhyhee, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 129 Owhyhee, - Mowee, Woahoo, Atooi, Morotoi, Oneeheow, Ranai, Oreehoua, Total of inhabitants, 150,000 65,400 60,200 54,000 36,000 10,000 20,400 4,000 400,000 1779. March. I am pretty confident, that, in this calculation, I have not exceeded the truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers fuppofed to be in Owhyhee, with the population of Otahcite, as fettled by Dr. Forfter, this computation will be found very low. The proportion of coaft, in the latter iQand, is, to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three: the number of inhabitants in Otaheite he ftates to be one hun- dred and twenty-one thoufand five hundred; though, ac- cording to his own principles, it mould be double that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium popu- lation of the countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour of the latter nearly as two to one. Notwithstanding the irreparable lofs we fuffered from the fudden refentment and violence of thefe people, yet, in juftice to their general conduct, it muft be acknowledged, that they are of the mod mild and affectionate difpofition; equally remote from the extreme levity and ficklenefs of the Otaheiteans, and the diftant gravity and referve of the inha- bitants of the Friendly Iflands. They appear to live in the utmoft harmony and friendfhip with one another. The wo- men, who had children, were remarkable for their tender and conftant attention to them ; and the men would often Vol. III. S lend 130 A VOYAGE TO 1779- lend their afMance in thofe domeflic oflices, with a willing- nefs that does credit to their reelings. It mud, however, be obferved, that they fall very fhort of the other iflanders, in that bcfl tcft of civilization, the refpect paid to the women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the men, but the beft forts of food arc tabooed, or forbidden them. They are not allowed to eat pork, turtle, fcveral kinds of fifli, and fome fpecies of the plantains ; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating, for having eaten, on board our fhip, one of thefe interdicted articles. In their domeflic life, they appear to live almofl entirely by themfelves, and though we did not obferve any inflances of pcrfonal ill-treatment, yet it was evident they had little regard or attention paid them. The great hofpitality and kindnefs, with which we were re- ceived by them, have been already frequently remarked ; and indeed they make the principal part of our tranfaclions with them. Whenever we came on more, there was a con- itant druggie who ihould be mofl forward in making us lit- tle prefents, bringing rcfrefhments, or fliewing fome other mark of their refpect. The old people never failed of re- ceiving us with tears of joy ; feemed highly gratified with being allowed to touch us, and wereconflantly making com- parifons between themfelves and us, with the ilrongefl marks of humility. The young women were not lefs kind and engaging, and, till they found, notwithflanding our ut- mofl endeavours to prevent it, that they had reafon to re- pent of our acquaintance, attached themfelves to us without the lcafl referve. In juflicc, however, to the fex, it muft be obferved, that thelc ladies were probably all of the lower clafs of the people ; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. M people; fori am ftrongly inclined to believe, that, excepting '779- the few, whofe names are mentioned in the courfe of our narrative, we did not fee any woman of rank during our Hay amongft them. Their natural capacity feems, in no refpeel, below the common ftandard of mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of their manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumftances of their fituation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiolity, with which they attended the armourer's forge, and the many expedients they had invented, even before we left the iflands, for working the iron they had procured from us, into fuch forms as were belt adapted to their purpofes, were flrong proofs of docility and ingenuity. Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, polTefTed a degree of ju- dicious c'uriofity, and a quicknefs of conception, which was rarely met with amongft thefc people. He was very inquifi- tive after our cuftoms and manners; afked after our King; the nature of our government ; our numbers ; the method of building our mips ; our houfes ; the produce of our coun- try ; whether we had wars ; with whom ; and on what oc- cafions ; and in what manner they were carried on; who was our God 3 and many other qucflions of the fame na- ture, which indicated an underflanding of great compre- henfion. We met with two instances of perfons difordcred in their minds, the one a man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the particular attention and refpeel: paid to them, that the opinion of their being infpired by the Divinity, which obtains among molt of the nations of the Eaft, is alio received here. S 2 Though t 132 A VOYAGE TO ■ 779- Though the cuftom, of eating the bodies of their enemies, March. , , , r . . . . _ . be not known, by poiitive evidence, to exilt in any of the South Sea Iflands, except New Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent in them all. The facrificing human victims, which feems evidently to be a relickof this horrid practice, ftill obtains univerfally amongfl: thefe iflanders ; and it is eafy to conceive, why the New Zealanders mould retain the repaft, which was probably the laft act of thefe mocking rites, longer than the reft of their tribe, who werefituated in more mild and fruitful climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands certainly bear a nearer refemblance to thofe of New Zealand, both in their perfons anddifpofition, than to any other people of this fa- mily, fo it was flrongly fufpected, by Mr. Anderfon, that, like them, they fUll continue to feaft on human flefli. The evidence, on which he founds this opinion, has been flated very fully in the tenth chapter of the third book * ; but, as I always entertained great doubts of the jultice of his con- clufions, it may not be improper to take this occafion of mentioning the grounds on which I venture to differ from him. With refpect to the information derived from the na- tives themfelves, I mail only obferve, that great pains were taken, by almoft. every officer on board, to come at the knowledge of fo curious a circumftance ; and that, except in the two inftances mentioned by Mr. Anderfon, we found them invariably denying the exiflence of any fuch cuflom amongfl: them. It muli be allowed, that Mr. Anderfon's knowledge of their language, which was fupcrior to that of any other perfon in either fliip, ought certainly to give his opinion great weight j at the fame time, I mull beg leave to * See Vol. II. p. 209, 210 — 214. remark, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i$$ remark, that, being prefent when he examined the man »779- March-. who had the fmall piece of faked flefh wrapped in cloth, it >., „ » ftruck me very forcibly, that the figns he made ufe of meant nothing more, than that it was intended to be eat, and that it was very pleafant or wholefome to the ftomach. In this opinion I was confirmed, by a circumftance which came to our knowledge, after the death of my worthy and ingenious- friend, viz, that almoft every native of thefe iflands carried about with him, either in his calibafh, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waifl, a fmall piece of raw pork, highly fulted, which they confidered as a great delicacy, and ufcd now and then to tafle of. With refpect to the confufion the you^ig lad was in (for he was not more than fixteen or eighteen years of age), no one could have been furprized at it, who had feen the eager and eameft manner in which Mr. Anderfon queftioned him. The argument drawn from the inftrumcnt made with mark's teeth, and which is nearly of the fame form with thofe ufcd at New Zealand for cutting up the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to controvert. I believe it to be an undoubted fact; that this knife, if it may be fo called, is never ufed by them in cutting the flefh of other animals. However, as the cuftom of offering human facri- fices, and of burning the bodies of the (lain, is ftill preva- lent here, it is not improbable, that the ufe of this inftru- ment is retained in thofe ceremonies. Upon the whole, I am flrongly inclined to think, and particularly from this lad circumftance, that the horrid practice, in queftion, has but lately ceafed amongfl thefe and other iflands of the South Sea. Omai, when prefTed on this fubjeel, confeffed, that, in the rage and fury of revenge, they would fometimes tear the flefh of their enemies, that were flain, with their teeth ; 5 • buc A VOYAGE TO but pofitively denied that they ever eat ir. This was cer- tainly approaching as near the fact as could be; but, on the other hand, the denial is a ftrong proof that the practice lias actually ceafed ; fince in New Zealand, where it iliil cxifts, the inhabitants never made the fmalleit fcruple of confefling it. The inhabitants of thefe iflands differ from thofe of the Friendly Ifles, in fuffering, almoft univerfally, their beards to grow. There were, indeed, a few, amongfl whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely ; and others that wore it only upon the upper lip. The fame variety, in the man- ner of wearing the hair, is alio obfervable here, as among the other inlanders of the South Sea; beficics which, they have a fafhion, as far as we know, peculiar to themfelves. They cut it clofc on each fide the head, down to the ears, leaving a ridge, of about a fmall hand's breadth, running from the forehead to the neck ; which, when the hair is thick and curling, has the form of the creft of the ancient helmet. Others wear large quantities of falfe hair, flowing down their backs in long ringlets, like the figure of the in- habitants of Horn Ifland, as fecn in Dalrymple's Voyages ; and others, again, tie it into a fingle round bunch on the top of the head, almoft as large as the head itfelfj and fome into five or fix diflinct bunches. They daub their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered fhells, which they keep in balls, and chew into a kind of foft pafte, when they have occafion to make ufe of it. This keeps the hair fmooth ; and, in time, changes it to a pale yellow colour. Both fcxes wear necklaces, made of firings of fmall va- riegated fhells ; and an ornament, in the form of the handle of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 135- of a cup, about two inches long, and half an inch broad, J779- n . • - March. made or wood, ftone, or ivory, finely polilhed, which is hung about the neck, by fine threads of twilled hair, doubled fometimes an hundred fold. Inftead of this or- nament, fome of them wear, on their breaft, a fmall human figure, made of bone, fufpended in the fame man- ner. The fan, or fly-flap, is alfo an ornament ufed by both fexes. The moil ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loofe, in bunches, to the top of a fmooth po- lilhed handle. The tail-feathers of the cock, and of the tro- pic-bird, are alfo ufed in the fame manner ; but the moft valuable are thofe which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones of an enemy flain in battle, and which are pre- served with great care, and handed down, from father to fon, as trophies of ineftimable value. The cuftom of tattoivivg the body, they have in common with the reft of the natives of the South Sea Iflands ; but it is only at New Zealand, and the Sandwich Iflands, that they tattow the face. There is alfo this difference between the two laft, that, in the former, it is done. in elegant fpiral vo- lutes, and in the latter, in flraight lines, crofting each other at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are alfo very neatly marked, and they have a Angular cuftom amongft them, the meaning of which we could never learn, that of tattowing the tip of the tongues of the fe- males. From fome information we received, relative to the cuftom of tattcwingy we were inclined to think, that it is frequently intended as a fign of mourning on the death of a Chief, or any other calamitous event. For wc were often told, that 8 fuch 136 AVOYAGETO '779- fuch a particular mark was in memory of fuch a Chief; and fo of the reft. It may be here, too, obferved, that the low- ed clafs are often taltowed with a mark, that diftinguifhes them as the property of the feveral Chiefs to whom they belong. The drefs of the men generally confifts only of a piece of thick cloth called the maro, about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pafs between the legs, and tie round the waift. This is the common drefs of all ranks of people. Their mats, fome of which are beautifully manufactured, are of various fizes, but moflly about five feet long, and four broad. Thefe they throw over their moulders, and bring forward before ; but they are feldom ufed, except in time of war, for which purpofe they leem better adapted than for ordinary ufe, being of a thick and cumberfome texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a (tone, or any blunt wea- pon. Their feet are generally bare, except when they have occafion to travel over the burnt flones, when they fecure them with a fort of fandal, made of cords, twitted from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary drefs of thefe iflanders; but they have another, appropriated to their Chiefs, and ufed on ceremonious occasions, confiding of a feathered cloak and helmet, which, in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any nation in the world. As this drefs has been already defcribed with great accuracy and minutcnefs, I have only to add, that thefe cloaks are made of different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the wearer, fome of them reaching no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The infe- rior Chiefs have alfo a fhort cloak, refembling the former, made of the long tail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man of war birds, with a broad border of the fmall red and yellow THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 137 yellow feathers, and a collar of che fame. Others ae;ain »779- 1 r r 1 i , ■ . , March. are made or feathers entirely white, with variegated bor- ders. The helmet has a ftrong lining of wicker-work, ca- pable of breaking the blow of any warlike inftrument, and feems evidently defigned for that purpofe. Thefe feathered drefTes feemed to be exceedingly fcarce, appropriated to perfons of the highefl: rank, and worn by the men only. Durin g the whole time we lay in Karaka- kooa Bay, we never faw them ufed but on three occafions ; in the curious ceremony of Tcrreeoboo's firft vifit to the fliips ; by fome Chiefs, who were fcen among the crowd on more, when Captain Cook was killed ; and, afterward, when Eappo brought his bones to us. The exact refemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmef formerly worn by the Spaniards, was too fink- ing not to excite our curiofity to inquire, whether there were any probable grounds for fuppofing it to have been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power, of obtaining information on this fubjecl, we found that they had no immediate knowledge of any other nation whatever; nor any tradition remaining among them of thefe iflands having been ever vifited before by fuch mips as ours. But notwithstanding the refult of thefe inquiries, the uncommon form of this habit appears to me a fufficient proof of its European origin ; efpecially when added to ano- ther circumflance, that it is a lingular deviation from the general refemblance in drefs, which prevails amongft all the branches of this tribe, difperfed through the South Sea. We were driven indeed, by this conclufion, to a fuppofition of the fhipwreck of fome Buccaneer, or Spanifh iliip, in the neighbourhood of thefe iflcUids. But whcr> it is recol- Vol. III. T letted, i38 A VOYAGE TO 1779- lccted, that the courfc of the Spahifli trade from Acapulco .eh. r r * — -v— —> to the Manillas, is but a few degrees to the Southward of the Sandwich Iflands, in their paflage out, and to the North- ward, oh their return, this fuppofition will not appear in the lead improbable. The common drefs of the women bears a clofe refem- blance to that of the men. They wrap round the waifl a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the thighs ; and fometimes, in the cool of the evening, they appeared with loofe pieces of fine cloth thrown over their moulders, like the women of Otaheite. The pan is another drefs very fre- quently worn by the younger part of the fex. It is made of the thinned and fined fort of cloth, wrapt feveral times, round the waid, and defcending to the leg ; fo as to have exactly the appearance of a full fliort petticoat. Their hair is cut fliort behind, and turned up before, as is the fafhion among the Otaheiteans and New Zealandcrs ; all of whom differ, in this refpect, from the women of the Friendly Iflands, who wear their hair long. We faw, indeed, one woman in Karakakooa Bay, whofe hair was arranged in a very lingular manner ; it was turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, fo as to form a fort of fhade to the face, like a fmall bonnet. Their necklaces are made of fhells, or of a hard, fliining, red berry. Befides which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow ; and another beautiful ornament, called eraiet which is generally put about the neck, but is fometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and fometimes worn in botli thefc ways at once, as may be {een in the print of the woman of the Sandwich JJlands. It is a ruff of the thick- nefs of a finger, made, in a curious manner, of exceedingly fmall THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 139 fmall feathers, woven fo clofe together as to form a furface '779* 0 March. as fmooth as that of the richer! velvet. The ground was generally of a red colour, with alternate circles of green, yellow, and black. Their bracelets, which were alfo of great variety, and very peculiar kinds, have been already defcribed. At Atooi, fome' of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear rings. Why this animal is thus particularly diflinguiflicd, I leave to the conjectures of the curious. There is alfo an ornament made or" fhells, fattened in rows on a ground of flrong netting, fo as to ftrike each other, when in motion ; which both men and women, when they dance, tie either round the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Inftead of (hells, they fometimes make ufe of dogs teeth, and a hard red berry, refembling that of the holly. There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if fuch it may be called), the figure of which may be better con- ceived from the annexed print, than any written defcrip- tion. It is a kind of mafk, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for the eyes and nofe. The top was ftuck full of fmall green twigs, which, at a diflance, had the appear- ance of an elegant waving plume ; and from the lower part hung narrow ftripes of cloth, refembling a beard. We never faw thefe mafks worn but twice, and both times by a num- ber of people together in a canoe, who came to the fide of the fliip, laughing and drolling, with an air of mafquerad- ing. Whether they may not likewife be ufed as a defence for the head againft flones, for which they feem befl de- signed, or in fome of their public games, or be merely in- T 2 tended 140 A VOYAGE TO '779- tended for the purpofes of mummery, we could never in- March. . V— v ' form ourfelves. It has already been remarked, in a few inftances., that the natives of the Sandwich Iflands approach nearer to the New Zealanders, in their manners and cuftoms, than to cither of their lefs diftant neighbours of the Society or Friendly Iflands. This is in nothing more obfervable, than in their method of living together in fmall towns or vil- lages, containing from about one hundred to two hundred houfes, built pretty clofe together, without any order, and having a winding path leading through them. They are generally flanked, toward the fea, with loofe detached walls, which probably are meant both for the purpofes of fheltcr and defence. The figure of their houfes has been already defcribed. They are of different fizes, from eighteen feet by twelve, to forty-five by twenty-four. There are fome of a larger kind ; being fifty feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one end. Thefe, they told us, wero defigncd for travellers or flrangers, who were only making a mor: flay. In addition to the furniture of their houfes, which has been accurately defcribed by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on which they ileep, with wooden pillows, or fleeping flools, exactly like thofe of the Chinefe. Some of the better fort of houfes have a court- yard before them, neatly railed in, with fmaller houfes built round it, for their fervants. In this area they generally eat, and fit during the day-time. In the fides of the hills, and among the ftccp rocks, we alfo obferved feveral holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited ; but as the entrance was defended with wicker-work, and we alio found, in the only THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Hi only one that was vifited, a ftone fence running acrofs it 1779- within, we imagine they are principally defigned for places of retreat, in cafe of an attack from an enemy. The food of the lower clafs of people confifts principally of fifth, and vegetables ; fuch as yams, fweet-potatoes, tar- row, plantains, fugar-canes, and bread-fruit. To thefe, the people of a higher rank add the flefh of hogs and dogs, drefTed in the fame manner as at the Society Iflands. They alfo eat fowls of the fame domeftic kind with ours ; but they are neither plentiful, nor much efleemed by them. It is remarked by Captain Cook, that the bread-fruit and yams appeared fcarce amongft them,, and were reckoned great rarities. We found this not to be the cafe on our fecond vifit ; and it is therefore mod probable, that, as thefe vege- tables were generally planted in the interior parts of the country, the natives had not had time to bring them down to us, during the fhort flay we made in Wymoa Bay. Their fifh they fait, and preferve in gourd-ihells ; not, as we at fir ft imagined, for the purpofe of providing againft any tempo- rary fcarcity, but from the preference they give to faired' meats. For we alfo found, that the Erees ufed to pickle pieces of pork in the fame manner, and elleemed it a great delicacy. Their cookery i3 exaaiy of the fame fort with that al- ready defcribed, in the accounts that have been published of the other South Sea iflands ; and though Captain Cook complains of the fournefs of their tarrow puddings, yet, in juflice to the many excellent meals they afforded us in Kara- kakooa Bay, I muft be permitted to refcue them from this general cenfure, and to declare, that I never eat better even in the Friendly Iflands. It is however remarkable, that they had net 14s A VOYACE TO »779- not got the art of prefcrving the bread-fruit, and making the . four parte of it called Maihee, as at the Society Iflands ; and it was lome fatisfaction to us, in return for their great kind- nefs and hofpitality, to have it in our power to teach them this ufeful fecrct. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals ; and their mode of drefling both their animal and vegetable food, was univcrfally allowed to be greatly fupe- rior to ours. The Chiefs conflantly begin their meal with a doze of the extract of pepper-root, brewed after the ufuai manner. The women eat apart from the men, and are ta- booed, or forbidden, as has been already mentioned, the ufc of pork, turtle, and particular kinds of plantains. How- ever, they would eat pork with us in private ; but we could never prevail upon them to touch the two lafl articles. The way of fpending their time appears to be very fimple, and to admit of little variety. They rife with the fun ; and, after enjoying the cool of the evening, retire to reft a few hours after fun-fct. The making of canoes and mats forms the occupations of the Erces ; the women are employed in manufacturing cloth ; and the Toivtcrws arc principally en- gaged in the plantations and filhing. Their idle hours are filled up with various amufements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing ; and, on more folemn occa- lions, they have boxing and wreftling matches, after the manner of the Friendly lllands ; though, in all thefc re- fpects, they are much inferior to the latter. Their dances have a much nearer rcfemblance to thofc of the New Zcalandcrs, than of the Otahciteans or Friendly Iflanders. They are prefaced with a flow, folemn fong, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and gently link- ing their breads, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are perfectly THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 143 perfectly eafy and graceful; and fo far they are the fame JJ779. with the dances of the Society Illands. When this has lafted «— ^— 1-» about ten minutes, both the tune and the motions gradu- ally quicken, and end only by their inability to fupport the fatigue ; which part of the performance is the exact coun- ter-part of that of the New Zealandcrs ; and (as it is among them) the perfon who ufes the moM: violent action, and holds out the longeft, is applauded as the bed dancer. It is to be obferved, that, in this dance, the women only take a part, and that the dancing of the men is nearly of the fame kind with what we faw of the fmall parties at the Friendly Illands; and which may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the accompaniment of fongs, with correfponding and graceful motions of the whole body. Yet as we were fpec- tators of boxing exhibitions, of the fame kind with thofe wc were entertained with at the Friendly Illands, it is probable that they had likewifc their grand ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both fcxes aififted. Their mufic is alfo of a ruder kind, having neither flute3 nor reeds, nor inftruments of any other fort, that we faw, except drums of various fizes. But their fongs, which they fung in parts *, and accompany with a gentle motion of the arms, * As this circumftance, of their finging in parts, has been much doubted by perfons eminently ikilled in mufic, and would be exceedingly curious if it v clearly aicertained, it is to be lamented that it cannot be more pofitively authen- ticated. Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips of the Marines, who both have a tolerable knowledge of mulic, have given it as their opinion, that they did (ing in parts ; that is to fay, that they fung together in different notes, which formed a pleafmg har- mony. Thefe gentlemen have fully teftified, that the Friendly I/Iandcrs undoubtedly ftudied their performances before they were exhibited in public ; that they had idea oi" different notes being ufeful in harmony; and alfo, that they rehearfed their *44 A VOYAGE TO '779- aims, in the fame manner as the Friendly Iflanders, had a March. very pleafing effect. It is very remarkable, that the people of thefe iflands arc great gamblers. They have a game very much like our draughts ; but, if one may judge from the number of fquares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight fquares, of which there are fourteen in a row, and they their compofitions in private, and threw out the inferior voices, before they ven- tured to appear before thofe who were fuppofed to be judges of their fkill in mufic. In their regular concerts, each man had a bamboo, which was of a different length, and gave a different tone: thefe they beat againft the ground, and each per- former, aflilted by the note given by this inftrument, repeated the fame note, accom- panying it by words, by which means it was rendered fometimes fliort, and fometimes long. In this manner, they fung in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each other, according to their different fpecies of voice, but fell on concords, fuch as were not difagreeable to the ear. Now, to overturn this fact, by the rcafoning of perfons who did not hear thefe per- formances, is rather an arduous tafk. And, yet, there is great improbability that any uncivilized people fhould, by accident, arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of mufic, which we imagine can only be attained by dint of ftudy, and knowledge of the fyftem and theory upon which mulical compofition is founded. Such miferable jargon as our country Pfalm-fmgcrs practife, which may be juftly deemed the lowed clafs of counterpoint, or finding in feveral parts, cannot he acquired in the coarfe manner in which it is performed in the churches, without confiderable time and practice. It is, therefore, (carcely credible, that a people, femi-baibarous, fhould naturally arrive at arty perfection in that art, which it is much doubted whether the Greeks and Roman--', with all their refinements in mufic, ever attained, and which the Chinefe, who have been longer civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found cut. If Captain Hurney (who, by the teftimony of his father, perhaps the greatefl mufi- cal theoriit of this or any other age, was able to h;»ve done it) had written down, in European notes, thcconcordsth.it thefe people fung ; and if thefe concords had been fuch as European ears could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the fact : but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rafli judgment to venture to alhrm that they did or did not underftand counterpoint ; and therefore I fear that this curious matter mult be confidered as ftill remaining undecided. 2 make THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 145 make ufe of black and white pebbles, which they move from '779- * * March. fquare to fquare. v — ^-*^> There is another game, which confifts in hiding a ftone under a piece of cloth, which one of the parties fpreads our, and rumples in fuch a manner, that the place where the ftone lies is difficult to be diftinguifhed. The antagonift, with a ftick, then ftrikes the part of the cloth where he ima- gines the ftone to be ; and as the chances are, upon the whole, confiderably againft his hitting it, odds, of all de- grees, varying with the opinion of the fkill of the parties are laid on the fide of him who hides. Befides thefe games, they frequently amufe themfelves with racing-matches between the boys and girls ; and here again they wager with great fpirit. I faw a man in a mod violent rage, tearing his hair, and beating his breaft, after lofing three hatchets at one of thefe races, which he had juft before purchafed from us, with half his fubflance. Swimming is not only a necefTary art, in which both their men and women are more expert than any people we had hitherto feen, but a favourite diverfion amongft them. One particular mode, in which they fometimes amufed themfelves with this exercife, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us mod perilous and extraordinary, and well deferving a diftinct relation. The furf, which breaks on the coafl round the bay, ex- tends to the diftance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the more, within which fpace, the furges of the fea, accumulating from the fhallownefs of the water, are dafhed againft the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from ftormy weather, or any extraordinary fwell at fea, the impetuofity of the furf is increafed to its utmoft height, they Vol. III. U choofe ,46 A V O Y A G E T O »779- choofe that time for this amufement, which is performed in March. the following manner: Twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, fet out together from the fhore. The firft wave they meet, they plunge under, and fuffcring it to roll over them, rife again beyond it, and make the bed of their way, by fwimming, out into the fea. The fecond wave is encountered in the fame manner with the firft; the great difficulty confifting in feizing the proper moment of diving under it, which, if miffed, the perlbn is caught by the furf, and driven back again with great violence; and all his dexterity is then re- quired to prevent himfelf from being dafhed againft the rocks. As foon as they have gained, by thefe repeated ef- forts, the fmooth water beyond the furf, they lay them- felves at length on their board, and prepare for their return* As the furf confifts of a number of waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the others, and to flow higher on the fhore, the reft breaking in the intermediate fpace, their firft object is to place, themfelves on the fummit of the largeft furge, by which they arc driven along with amazing rapidity toward the fhore. If by miftake they mould place themfelves on one of the fmaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or fliould not be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the fwell, they arc left expofed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are obliged again to dive and regain the place, from which they fet out. Thofe who fucceed in their object of reaching the fhore, have ftill the greateft danger to encounter. The coaft being guarded by a chain of rocks, with, here and there, a fmall opening between them, they are obliged to fleer their board through one of thefe, or, in cafe of failure, to quit it, before they reach the 4 rocks, THEv PACIFIC OCEAN. 147 rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the befl of -!779i their way back again. This is reckoned very difgraceful, ^- — «— -» and is alfo attended with the lofs of the board, which I have often feen, with great terror, dafhed to pieces, at the very moment the iflander quitted it. The boldnefs and ad- drefs, with which we faw them perform thefe difficult and dangerous manoeuvres, was altogether aflonifhing, and is fcarcely to be credited *. An accident, of which I was a near fpectator, fhews at how early a period they are fo far familiarized to the water, as both to lofe all fears of it, and to fet its dangers at de- fiance. A canoe being overfet, in which was a woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was not more than four years old, feemed highly delighted with what had happened, fwimming about at its eafe, and / playing a hundred tricks, till the canoe was put to rights again. Befides the amufements I have already mentioned, the young children have one, which was much played at, and Ihewed no fmall degree of dexterity. They take a fhort flick, with a peg fharpened at both ends, running through one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each fide; and throwing up a ball made of green leaves moulded together, and fecured with twine, they catch it on the point of the peg ; and immediately throwing it up again from the peg, they turn the flick round, and thus keep catching it on each peg alternately, without miffing it, for a confider- able time. They are not lefs expert at another game of the lame nature, tolling up in the air, and catching, in their * An amufement, fomewhat fimilar to this, at Otaheite, has been defcribed. Vol. II. p. 150. U 2 turns, M8 AVOYAGETO ■779- turns, a number of thcfe balls ; fo that we frequently faw March. ■ ' «. — ;, > little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter play the young people likewife divert themfelves at the Friendly Iflands. The great refemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and navigation, amongft all the inhabitants of the South Sea iflands, leaves me very little to add on thofe heads. Captain Cook has already defcribed the figure of the canoes we faw at Atooi. Thofe of the other iflands were prcciicly the fame ; and the largell we faw was a double ca- noe belonging to Terreeoboo, which meafured feventy feet in length, three and a half in depth, and twelve in breadth ; and each was hollowed out of one tree. The progrefs they have made in fculpture, their fkill in painting cloth, and their manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly defcribed. The molt curious fpeciraens of the former, which we faw during our fecond vifit, are the bowls, in which the Chiefs drink ava. Thefe are ufually about eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifully poliihed. They are fupported by three, and fomctimes four fmall human figures, in various attitudes. Some of them reft on the hands of their fupportcrs, ex- tended over the head ; others on the head and hands ; and fome on the moulders. The figures, I am told, are accu- rately proportioned, and neatly fmifhed, and even the ana- tomy of the mufcles, in fupporting the weight, well exprcflcd. Their cloth is made of the fame materials, and in the fame manner, as at the Friendly and Society Iflands. That which is defigned to be painted, is of a thick and flrong tex- ture, fcveral folds being beat and incorporated together ; I after THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 149 after which it is cut in breadths, about two or three feet .V779: March. wide, and is painted in a variety of patterns, with a compre- henfivenefs and regularity of defign, that befpeaks infinite tafte and fancy. The exactnefs with whicli the moft intri- cate patterns are continued, is the more furprizing, when we confider, that they have no ftamps, and that the whole is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo cane dipped in paint; the hand being fupported by another piece of the cane, in the manner practifed by our painters. Their co- lours are extracted from the fame berries, and other vege- table fubftances, as at Otaheite, which have been already defcribed by former voyagers. The bufinefs of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called kipparee; and it is remarkable, that they always gave the fame name to our writing. The young women would often take the pen out of our hands, and (hew us, that they knew the ufe of it as well as we did ; at the fame time telling us, that our pens were not fo good as theirs. They looked upon a fheet of written paper, as a piece of cloth ftriped after the famion of our country, and it was not without the utmoft difficulty, that we could make them underftand, that our figures had a meaning in them which theirs had not. Their mats are made of the leaves of the pandemia ; and, as well as their cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and flained of different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, fpotted with fquares, orromboids, of red ; others are of a ftraw colour, fpotted with green ; and others are worked with beautiful ilripes, either in ftraight or waving lines of red and brown. In this article of manu- facture, whether we regard the ftrength, fincnefs, or beauty, they certainly excel the whole world. Their *5<> A VOYAGE TO ■ 779! Their fifliing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearl, boni Marc!;. or wood, pointed and barbed with fmall bones, or tortoife- fhell. They are of various fizes and forms ; but the mod common are about two or three inches long, and made in the fhape of a fmall fifh, which ferves as a bait, having a bunch of feathers tied to the head or tail. Thofe with which they fifh for fhaiks, are of a very large fize, being generally fix or eight inches long. Confidering tne mate- rials of which thefe hooks are made, their ftrength and neatnefs are really aftonifhing ; and in fact we found them, upon trial, much fuperior to our own. The line which they ufe for fidiing for making nets, and for other domeftic purpofes, is of different degrees of fine- nefs, and is made of the bark of the touta, or cloth tree, neatly and evenly twifted, in the fame manner as our com- mon twine ; and may be continued to any length. They have a finer fort, made of the bark of a fmall fhrub called artemah\ and the fined is made of human hair; but this laft is chiefly ufed for things of ornament. They alfo make cordage of a llrongcr kind, for the rigging of their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we purchafcd for our own ufe, and found it well adapted to the fmaller kinds of running rigging. They likewife make another fort of cordage, which is flat, and exceedingly flrong, and ufed principally in ladling the roofing of their houfcs, or whatever rhey wilh to ralten tight together. This lad is not twifted like the former forts, but is made of the fibrous firings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner our failors make their points for the reefing of fails. The gourds, which grow to fo enormous a fize, that fome of them arc capable of containing from ten to twelve gal- lons, i \ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i5r Ions, are applied to all manner of domeftic purpofes ; and in '779' order to fit them the better to their refpeetive ufes, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying band- ages round them during their growth. Thus, fome of them are of a long, cylindrical form, as beft adapted to con- tain their fifhing-tack'e ; others are of a dim form, and thefe ferve to hold their fait, and faked provifions, their puddings, vegetables, &x. ; which two forts have neat clofe covers, made likewife of the gourd; others again are ex- actly the fhape of a bottle with a long neck, and in thefe they keep thci water. They have likewife a method of fcoring them ■ ith u heated inflrument, fo as to give them the appearance of being painted, in a variety of neat and elegant defigns. Amongft their arts, we muft not forget that of making fait, with which we were amply fupplied, during our flay at thefe iflands, and which was perfectly good of its kind. Their falt-pans are made of earth, lined with clay ; being generally fix or eight feet fquare, and about eight inches deep. They are railed upon a bank of flones near the high watermark, from whence the fait water is conducted to the foot of them, in fmall trenches, out of which thev are fill- ed, and the fun quickly performs he necellary procefs of evaporation. The fait we procured at Atooi and Oneehcow on our firft vifit, was of a brown and dirty fort; but that which we afterward got in Karakakooa Bay, was white, and of a mofl excellent quality, and in great abundance. Bc- fides the quantity we ufed in fairing pork, we filled all our empty calks, amounting to fixteen puncheons, in the Refo lution only. Their inftruments of war are fpears ; daggers, called pa* hooai ; clubs ; and flings. The fpears are of two forts, and made i52 AVOYAGETO '779- made of a hard folid wood, which has much the appear- March. ** * „ — ; ance of mahogany. One fort is from fix to eight feet in length, finely polifhed, and gradually increafing in thicknefs from the extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which tapers fuddenly, and is furnifhed with four or fix rows of barbs. It is not improbable, that thefe might be ufed in the way of darts. The other fort, with which we faw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi moflly armed, are twelve or fifteen feet long, and, inflead of being barbed, terminate toward ihe point, like their daggers. The dagger, or pahooa, is made of heavy black wood, re. fembling ebony. Its length is from one to two feet, with a firing pafling through the handle, for the purpofe of fuf- pending it to the arm. For its fhape, I mud refer the reader to figure 6, in Plate LXVII. The clubs are made indifferently of feveral forts of wood. They are of rude workmanfhip, and of a variety of fhapes and (izes. The flings have nothing fingular about them ; and in no refpect differ from our common flings, except that the flone is lodged on a piece of matting inflead of leather. CHAP, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 153 CHAP. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued.—" Government. — People divided into three Clajfes. — Power of Eree-taboo. — Genealogy of the Kings of Qwhyhee and Mowee. — Power of the Chiefs. — State of the inferior Clafs. — Punipment of Crimes, — Religion. — Society of Priefls. — The Orono. — Their Idols. — Songs chanted by the Chiefs , before they drink Ava. — Human Sacrifices. — Cuftom of knocking out the Fore-teeth. — Notions with regard to a future State. — Marriages. — Remarkable Injlance of 'Jealoufy. — Funeral Rites. THE people of thefe iflands are manifeftly divided J77j* into three clafTes. The firft are the Erees, or Chiefs, of each diftricl ; one of whom is fuperior to the reft, and is called at Owhyhee Eree-taboo, and Eree Moee. By the firft of thefe words they exprefs his abfolute authority ; and by the latter, that all are obliged to proftrate themfelves (or put themfelves to fleep, as the word fignifies) in his prefence. The fecond clafs are thofe who appear to enjoy a right of property, without authority. The third are the towtows, or fervants, who have neither rank nor property. It is not poffible to give any thing like a fyftematical ac- count of the fubordination of thefe clanes to each other, without departing from that Uriel: veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more fatisfa&ory than conjectures, how- ever ingenious. 1 will, therefore, content myfelf with re- lating fuch facts, as we were witnefles to ourfelves, and fuch Vol. III. X accounts 154 A VOYAGE TO 1779. accounts as we thought could be depended upon ; and (hall leave the reader to form, from them, his own ideas of the nature of their government. The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the Eree- taboo of Owhyhee, was very evident, from the manner in ■which he was received at Karakakooa, on his firft arrival'. All the natives were feen proftrated at the entrance of their houfes ; and the canoes, for two days before, were tabooed* or forbidden to go out, till he took off the reflraint. He was, at this time, juft returned from Mowee, for the pof- feilion of which he was contending in favour of his fon Teewarro, who had married the daughter and only child of the late king of that ifland, againft Taheeterree, his. furviving brother. He was attended, in this expedition, by many of his warriors ; but whether their fervice was vo- luntary, or the condition on which they hold their rank and property, we could not learn. That he collects tribute from the fubordinate Chiefs, we had a very finking proof in the inftance of Kaoo, which has been already related in our tranfactions of the 2d and 3d of February. I have before mentioned, that the two mod powerful Chicfs- of thefe iflands are Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeoran- nee of Woahoo ; the reft of the fmallcr iiles being fubject to one or other of thefe ; Mowee, and its dependencies, being, at this time, claimed, as we have juft obferved, by Terreeo- boo for Teewarro his fon and intended fucceflbr ; Atooi and Onccheow being governed by the grandfons of Perreeorannce. The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which 1 collected from the priefts, during our refi- vlencc at the Moral in Karakakooa Bay, contains all the in- 2 formation THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i5i formation I could procure relative to the political hillory of ^^ thefe iflands. This account reaches to four Chiefs, prcdeceflbrs of the prefent ; all of whom they reprefent to have lived to an old age. Their names and fucceffions are as follow : Firft, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only fon, called Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakea ; who had alfo an only fon, named Papikaneeou. Secondly, Neerooagooa had three fons, the eldeft named Kahavce ; and Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only fon, named Kaowreeka. Thirdly, Kahavee had an only fon, Kayenewee a mum- mow ; and Kaowreeka, the Mowee king, had two fons, Maiha maiha, and Taheeterree ; the latter of whom is now, by one party, acknowledged Chief of Mowee. Fourthly, Kayenewee a mummow had two fons, Terree- oboo and Kaihooa ; and Maiha maiha, king of Mowee, had no fon, but left a daughter, called Roaho. Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the prefent king of Owhyhee, had a fon named Teewarro, by Rora-rora, the widow of Maiha maiha, late king of Mowee ; and this fon has married Roaho, his half filler, in whofe right he claims Mowee and its ap- pendages. Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, fupported by a confiderable party, who were not willing that the pofTefuons fhould go into another family, took up arms, and oppofed the rights of his niece. When- we were firft off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors to fupport the claims of his wife, his fon, and X 2 daughter- i56 AVOYAGETO '779- daughter-in-law, and had fought a battle with the oppofitc party, in which Taheeterree was worried. We afterward underflood, that matters had been compromifed, and that Taheeterree is to have the pofleflion of the three neigh- bouring iflands during his life ; that Teewarro is acknow- ledged the Chief of Mowee, and will alfo fucceed to the kingdom of Owhyhce on the death of Terrecoboo ; and alfo to the fovereignty of the three iflands, contiguous to Mowee, on the death of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married to his half fitter; and mould he die without ifTue, the government of thefe iflands defcends to Maiha maiha, whom we have often had occafion to mention, he being the fon of Kaihooa, the deceafed brother of Terreeoboo. Should he alfo die without ifTue, they could not tell who would fuc- ceed ; for the two youngefl fons of Terreeoboo, one of whom he appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of a wo- man of no rank, would, from this circumftance, be debarred all right of fucceffion. We had not an opportunity of fee- ing queen Rora-rora, whom Terreeoboo had left behind at Mowee ; but we have already had occafion to take notice, that he was accompanied by Kanee Kaberaia, the mother of the two youths, to whom he was very much attached. From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it is pretty clear that the government is hereditary ; which alfo makes it very probable, that the in- ferior titles, and property itfelf, defcend in the fame courfe. With regard to Perreeorannee, we could only learn, that he is an Eree Taboo ; that he was invading the pofTeflion of Ta- heeterree, but on what pretence we were not informed > and that*his grandfons governed the iflands to leeward. The power of the Erees over the inferior clafTes of people appears to be very abfolute. Many inflanccs of this oc- curred THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 157 curred daily during our flay amongft them, and have been >779- already related. The people, on the other hand, pay them the moil implicit obedience; and this ftate of fervility has manifeflly had a great effect in debafing both their minds and bodies. It is, however, remarkable, that the Chiefs were never guilty, as far at leaft as came within my know- ledge, of any acts of cruelty or injuftice, or even of infolent behaviour toward them ; though, at the fame time, they exercifed their power over one another in the mod haughty and oppreffive manner. Of this I mail give two inftances. A Chief of the lower order had behaved with great civility to the matter of the fhip, when he went to examine Kara- kakooa bay, the day before the fhip firft arrived there ; and, in return, I afterward carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea entered, whofe face but too plainly manifefted his indignation, at feeing our guefl in fo honourable a fituation. He immediately feized him by the hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the Captain interfered ; and, after a great deal of altercation, all the indulgence we could obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was, that our gueft mould be fuffered to remain, being featcd upon the floor, whilft Pareea filled his place at the table. At another time, when Terfeeoboo firft came on board the Refolution, Mai- ha-maiha, who attended him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the fhip in the moll ignominious manner ; and yet Pareea, we certainly knew, to be a man of the firft con- fequence. How far the property of the lower clafs is fecured againft the rapacity and defpotifm of the great Chiefs, I cannot fay. but it fhould feem, that it is fufficiently protected againft 1 private 158 A V O Y A G E T O '779- private theft, or mutual depredation. For not only their March. r u — /— «/ plantations, which are fp- and on the return Home, by the Way of Canton, and the Cape of Good Hope. C H A P. I. Departure from Oneeheow, — Fruitlefs Attempt to dif cover Modoopapappa.- — Cowfe fleered for Awatfka Bay. — Oc- iurre?ices during that Paffage. — Sudden Cha?rge from Heat to Cold. — Diflrefs occafto?ied by the leaking of the Refolution. — View of the Coafl of Kamtfchatka. — Ex- treme Rigour of the Climate. — Lofe Sight of the Dif- covery. — The Re/blution enters the Bay of Awatjka. Prof peel of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. — Party fent a/Jjore. — Their Reception by the Command- ing Officer of the Port. — Mejfage difpatched to the Com- mander at Bolcheretjk. — Arrival of the Dtfcovery. — Z 2 Return 172 AVOYAGETO Return of the Mejfcngers, from the Commander < — Extraordinary Mode of travelling, — Vifit from a Merchant, and a Gennan Servant belonging to the Commander. M779h (~\^ r^e I'^t^1 G^ March, at fcven m f,ne morning, we ' , ' V^/ weighed anchor, and palling to the North of Tahoora, 1$' flood on to the South Weft, in hopes of falling in with the ifland of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the natives, lay in that direction, about five hours fail from Tahoora. At four in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a ftout ca- noe, wLrh ten men, who were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kill tropic and man-of-war birds, with which that place was faid to abound. It has been mentioned be- fore, thai the feathers of thefe birds are in great requeft, being much ufed in making their cloaks, and other orna- mental parts of their drefs. At eight, having feen nothing of the ifland, we hauled the wind to the Northward, till midnight, and then tacked, and flood on a wind to the South Eall, till day-light next TucfJayi6. morning, at which time Tahoora bore Eall North Eall, five or fix leagues dillant. We afterward fleered Wefl South Well, and made the Difcovery's fignal to fpread four miles upon our llarboard beam. At noon, our latitude was 21° 27', and our longitude 198° 42' ; and having flood on till five, in the lame direction, we made the Difcovery's fignal to come under our ftern, and gave over all hopes of feeing Modoopa- pappa. We conceived, that it might probably lie in a more •Southerly direction from Tahoora, than that in which we had fleered ; though, after all, it is poffible, that we might h.ave palled it in the night, as the illanders defcribed it .to THE PACIFIC OCEAN. t73 to be very fmall, and almoft even with the furface of '779- , ,. March. the fea. c— -v— _^ The next day, we fleered Weft ; it being Captain Clerke's Wodnef. 17. intention to keep as near as poffible in the fame parallel of latitude, till we fliould make the longitude of AwatfkaBay, and afterward to fleer due North for the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay ; which was alfo appointed for our rendezvous, in cafe of reparation. This track was chofen on account of its being, as far as wc knew, unex- plored ; and we were not without hopes of falling in with lbme new iflands on our paffage. We had fcarccly feen a bird, fince our lofing fight of Ta- hoora, till the 18th in the afternoon, when, being in the Thurfdayis. latitude of 210 12', and the longitude of 1940 45', the ap- pearance of a great many boobies, and fome man-of-war birds, made us keep a fharp look-out for land. Toward evening, the wind lefTened, and the North Eaft fwell, which, on the 16th and 17th, had been fo heavy as to make the mips labour exceedingly, was much abated. The next day, we Friday i9. faw no appearance of land ; and at noon, we fleered a point more to the Southward, viz. Wefl by South, in the hopes of finding the trade winds (which blew almoft invariably from the Eaft by North) freflier as we advanced within the tropic. It is fomewhat Angular, that though we faw no birds in the forenoon, yet toward evening we had again a number of boobies and man-of-war birds about us. This feemed to indicate, that we had paffed the land from whence the former flights had come, and that, we were approaching fome other low ifland. The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 23d, when it freshened from the North Eaft by Eaft, Tuefday z$. and i74 A VOYAGE TO 1779- and increafed to a ftrong gale, which fplit fome of our old March. iil ... , .. ■ -.-._' fails, and made the running rigging very frequently give way. This gale laded twelve hours ; it then became more Thurfdayzs- moderate, and continued fo, till the 25th at noon, when we entirely loft it, and had only a very light air. Fiday26. On the 26th in the morning, we thought we faw land to the Weft South Weft, but, after running about fixteen leagues in that direction, we found our miftake j and night coming on, we again fleered Weft. Our latitude, at this time, was 190 45', which was the greateft Southing we made in this run; our longitude was 1838, and varia- tion i2e 45' Eaft. We continued in this courfe, with little Monday 29. alteration in the wind, till the 29th, when it fliifted to the South Eaft and South South Eaft, and, for a few hours in the night, it was in the Weft ; the weather being dark and cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for fome days paft, feveral turtles, one of which was the fmalleft I ever faw, not exceeding three inches in length. We were alfo accom- panied by man-of-war birds, and boobies of an unufual kind, being quite white (except the tip of the wing, which was black), and eafily miftaken, at firft fight, for gannets. The light winds which we had met with for fome time paft, with the prefent unfcttled ftate of the weather, and the little appearance of any change for the better, induced Cap- tain Clerke to alter his plan of keeping within the tropical latitudes ; and accordingly, at fix this evening, we began to fteer North Weft by North, at which time our latitude was 200 23', and our longitude 180* 40'. During the continuance of the light winds, which prevailed almoft conftantly ever fincc our departure from the Sandwich hlands, the weather was very clofe, and the air hot and fultry; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 175 fultry; the thermometer being generally at 80*, and fome- M?79- times at 83*. All this time, we had a confiderable fwell < •— > from the North Eaft ; and in no period of the voyage did the ihips roll and {train fo violently. April. In the morning of the ift of April, the wind changed Thurfdayi. from the South Eaft to the North Eaft by Eaft, and blew a frefh breeze, till the morning of the 4th, when it altered Sunday 4. two points more to the Eaft, and by noon increafed to a ftrong gale, which lafted till the afternoon of the 5th, at- Monday 5. tended with hazy weather. It then again altered its direc- tion to the South Eaft, became more moderate, and was ac- companied by heavy mowers of rain. During all this time, we kept fleering to the North Weft, againft a flow but re- gular current from that quarter, which caufed a conftant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen miles a day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 260 17', and longitude 173* 30', we parled prodigious quantities of what failors call Portuguefe men-of-war (holothuria phy- Jails), and were alfo accompanied with a great number of fea birds, amongft which we obferved, for the firft time, the albatrofs and fheerwater. On the 6th, at noon, we loft the trade wind, and were Tuefdayg. fuddenly taken a-back, with the wind from the North North Weft. At this time, our latitude was 290 50', and our longitude 1700 1'. As the old running ropes were constantly breaking in the late gales, we reeved what new ones we had left, and made fuch other preparations, as were neceifary for the very different climate with which we were now fhortly to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the tropics, had not been idly fpcnt. The carpenters found fuflicient employment in repairing the boats. The belt bower cable had been fo much damaged 4 by t76 AVOYAGETO »77?- by the foul ground in Karakakooa Bay, and whilfl wc were at anchor ofF Oncchcow, that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it ; in converting of which, with other old cordage, into fpun-yarn, and applying it to different ufes, a considerable part of the people were kept conftantly em- ployed by the boatfwain. The airing of fails and other ftores, which, from the leakinefs of the decks and fides of the fhips, were perpetually fubject to be wet, had now be- come a frequent as well as a laborious and troublefome part of our duty. Befides thefe cares, which had regard only to the mips themfelves, there were others, which had for their object the prefervation of the health of the crews, that furnifhed a conflant occupation to a great number of our hands. The Handing orders, eftablifhed by Captain Cook, of airing the bedding, placing fires between decks, wa filing them with vinegar, and fmoking them with gunpowder, were ob- ferved without any intermiffion. For fome time part, even the operation of mending the failors old jackets had rifen into a duty both of difficulty and importance. It may be neceflary to inform thofe who are unacquainted with the difpofition and habits of feamen, that they arc fo accuf- tomed in mips of war to be directed in the care of them- felves by their officers, that they lofe the very idea of fore- fight, and contract the thoughtlcfTncfs of infants. I am fure, that if our people had been left to their own discre- tion alone, we mould have had the whole crew naked, be- fore the voyage had been half finiflicd. It was natural to expect, that their experience, during our voyage to the North la ft year, would have made them fcnfiblc of the ne- cellity of paying feme attention to thefe matters ; but if l'uch reflections ever occurred to them, their imprcflion was fo 6 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 177 o tranfitory, that, upon our return to the tropical climates, ^79- their fur jackets, and the reft of their cold country clothes, * — -j were kicked about the decks as things of no value ; though it was generally known, in both (hips, that we were to make another voyage toward the pole. They were, of courfe, picked up by the officers ; and, being put into cafks, reflored about this time to the owners. In the afternoon, we obferved fome of the fheathing float- ing by the fliip ; and, on examination, found that twelve or fourteen feet had been waflied off from under the lar- board-bow, where we fuppofed the leak to have been ; which, ever lince our leaving Sandwich Iilands, had kept the people almoft conftantly at the pumps, making twelve inches water an hour. This day we faw a number of fmall crabs, of a pale blue colour ■, and had again, in company, a few albatroffes and fheerwaters. The thermometer, in the night-time, funk eleven degrees ; and although it dill re- mained as high as 590, yet we fullered much from the cold; our feelings being, as yet, by no means, reconciled to that degree of temperature. The wind continued blowing frefh from the North, till the eighth, in the morning, when it became more moderate, Thurfdays. with fair weather, and gradually changed its direction to the Eaft, and afterward to the South. On the ninth, at noon, our latitude was 32° 16' ; our Friday 9. longitude i66°4o'; and the variation 8° 30' Eaft. And on the tenth, having eroded the track of the Spanifh. gal- Saturday ic. Icons from the Manillas to Acapulco, we expected to have fallen in with the Iiland of Rica de Plata, which, according to De Lille's chart, in which the route of thofe mips is laid down, ought to have been in fight ; its latitude, as there Vol. III. A a given, ,78 A V O Y A G E T O l'?9- given, being 330 30' North, and its longitude 166° Eaft. Not- v, v " < withstanding we were fo far advanced to the Northward, we faw this day a tropic bird, and alfo feveral other kinds of fea-birds ; i'uch as puilins, fea-parrots, fheerwaters, and al- ba trofTes. Sunday Li. On the eleventh, at noon, we were in latitude 35* 30', longitude 165° 45'; and during the courfe of the day, had fea-birds, as before, and pafTed feveral bunches of fea-weed. About the fame time, the Difcovery palled a log of wood ; but no other figns of land were feen. Mosdiy 12. The next day the wind came gradually round to the Eaftr and increafed to fo ffrong a gale, as obliged us to ftrike our top-gallant yards, and brought us under the lower fails, and the main top-fail clofe reefed. Unfortunately we were upon that tack, which was the moft difadvantageous for our leak. But, as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it gave us no great uneafinefs, till TuefUay 13. the 13 th, about fix in the afternoon, when we were greatly alarmed by a fuddcn inundation, that deluged the whole fpace between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a fufficient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in a moment fet every- thing afloat. Our fituation was indeed exceedingly didrefl- ing; nor did we immediately fee any means of relieving ourfclves. A pump, through the upper decks into the coal- hole, could anfwer no end, as it would very foon have been choaked up by the fmall coals ■, and, to bale the water out with buckets, was become impracticable, from the number of bulky materials that were waflied out or" the gunner's ftorc-room into it, and which, by the mips motion, were tofTcd violently from fide to fide. No other method was therefore THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i79 therefore left, but to cut a hole through the bulk-head (or »779> partition) that feparated the coal-hole from the fore-hold, » ' T " * and by that means to make a paflage for the body of water into the well. However, before that could be done, it was neceffary to get the cafks of dry provifions out of the fore- hold, which kept us employed the greater! part of the night; fo that the carpenters could not get at the partition till the next morning. As foon as a paffage was made, the greateft Wednef. 14. part of the water emptied itfelf into the well, and enabled us to get out the reft with buckets. But the leak was now fo much increafed, that we were obliged to keep one half of the people conftantly pumping and baking, till the noon of the 15th. Our men bore, with great cheerfulnefs, this ex- Thurfday^, ceilive fatigue, which was much increafed by their having no dry place to fleep in ; and, on this account, we began to ferve their full allowance of grog. The weather now becoming more moderate, and the fwcll lefs heavy, we were enabled to clear away the reft of the cafks from the fore-hold, and to open a fuflicient paffage for the water to the pumps. This day we faw a grcenifli piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, we founded, but got no bottom with a hundred and fixty fa- thoms of line. Our latitude, at noon this day, was 41° 52', longitude 161° 15'; variation 6° 30' Eaft ; and the wind foon after veering to the Northward, we altered our courfe three points to the Weft. On the 16th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 42* 12', FiWay 16. and in the longitude of 160' 5' ; and as we were now ap- proaching the place where a great extent of land is faid to have been feen by De Gam a, we were glad of the op- portunity which the courfe we were fleering gave, of con- tributing to remove the doubts, if any fhould be ftill en- A a 2 tertained, 180 AVOYAGETO l'7o- tcrtained, refpeeting the falfehood of this pretended diSco* \— — , 1 very. For it is to be obferved, that no one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama was, when he lived, or what year this pretended difcovery was made. According to Mr. Muller, the firft account of it given to the Public was in a chart publifhed by Texeira, a Portu- gueze geographer, in 1 649, who places it in ten or twelve de- grees to the North Eaft of Japan, between the latitudes of 440 and 45°; and announce it to be landfeen by John de Gam.:, the Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain. On what grounds the French geographers have fince removed it five degrees to the Eaftward, does not appear; except we fuppofe it to have been in order to make room for another difcovery of the fame kind made by the Dutch, called Company's Lan< ; of which we fhall have occafion to fpeak hereafter. During the whole day, the wind was exceedingly un- settled, being feldom Heady to two or three points ; and blowing in frefh gufls, which were Succeeded by dead calms. Thefe were not unpromising appearances; bur, after ftanding off and on, the whole of this day, with- out feeing any thing of the land, we again fleered to the Northward, not thinking it worth our while to lofe time in Search of an object, the opinion of whofe existence had been already pretty generally exploded. Our people were employed the whole of the 1 6th, in getting their wet things to dry, and in airing the mips below. We now began to feel very fharply the increafing in- clemency of the Northern climate. In the morning of Sun^y 18. the 1 8th, our latitude being 450 40', and our longitude 160° 25', we had fnow and fleet, accompanied with ftrong gales from the South Wert:. This circumflancc will ap- pear THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *8x pear very remarkable, if we confider the feafon of the year, and the quarter from which the wind blew. Cn the 19th, the thermometer, in the day-time, remained at the Monday rg. freezing point, and at four in the morning fell to 290. If the reader will take the trouble to compare the degree cf heat, during the hot fultry weather we had at the begin- ning of this month, with the extreme cold which we now endured, he will conceive how feverely fo rapid a change mull have been felt by us. In the gale of the 18th, we had fplit almoft all the fails we had bent, which being our fecond belt fuit, we were now reduced to make ufeof our laft and bell fet. To add to Captain Clerke's difficulties, the fea was in general fo rough, and the (hips fo leaky, that the fail-makers had no place to repair the fails in, except his apartments, which, in his declining Hate of health, was a ferious inconvenience to him. 20. On the 20th, at noon, being in latitude 490 45' North, Tuefday and longitude 1610 15' Eaft ; and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coaft of Ana, the wind fhifted fuddenly to the North, and continued in the fame quarter the following day. However, although it retarded our progrefs, yet the fair weather it brought was no fmall refreshment to us. In the forenoon of the 21ft, we faw a whale, and a land- Wednef. 21 bird ; and, in the afternoon, the water looking muddy, we founded, but got no ground with an hundred and forty fa- thoms of line. During the three preceding days, we faw large flocks of wildfowl, of a fpecies refembling ducks. This is ufually confidered as a proor of the vicinity of land; but we had no other figns of it, fmce the 16th; in which time we had run upward of an hundred and fifty leagues. On i8z AVOYAGETO T-9- On the 2 2d, the wind fhifted to the North Eafl, attended , p" ' _. with mifty weather. The cold was exceedingly fevere, and rhurUayz:. ^ ropes were fo frozen, that ic was with difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At noon, the lati- tude, by account, was 510 38', longitude 1600 y' ; and on comparing our prefent pofition with that given to the Southern parts of Kamtfchatka, in the Ruffian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it prudent to run on toward the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten; and, hav- ing founded, had ground agreeably to our conjectures, with feventy fathoms of line. Friday 23. On the 23d, at fix in the morning, being in latitude 52°oo/, and longitude 1600 07', on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in mountains covered with fnow ; and extending from North three quarters Eaft, to South Weft, a high conical rock, bearing South Weft, three quarters Weft, at three or four leagues diftance. We had no fooner taken this imperfect view, than we were again covered with a thick fog. Being now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of Awatfka Bay, as foon as the weather cleared up, we flood in to take a nearer view of the land ; and a more difmal and dreary profpect I never beheld. The coaft appears flraight and uniform, having no inlets or bays ; the ground, from the more, rifes in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges of moun- tains, whofe fummits were loft in the clouds. The whole fcene was entirely covered with fnow, except the fides of fomc of the cliffs, which rofe too abruptly from the fea for the fnow to lie upon them. The wind continued blowing very ftrong from the North Eaft, with thick hazy weather and fleet, from the 24th till the 28th. During the whole time, the thermometer was never higher than 30'- °. The fhip appeared to be a com- 3 pie to Saturday 24. THE PACIFIC OCEAN, plete mafs of ice; the fhrowds were fo incruflcd with it, as ]&?• r April. to meafure in circumference more than double their ufual < .— — » fize ; and, in fhort, the experience of the oldeft feaman among us, had never met with any thing like the conti- nued mowers of fleet, and the extreme cold, which we now encountered. Indeed the feverity of the weather, added to the great difficulty of working the mips, and the labour of keeping the pumps conftantly going, rendered the fervice too hard for many of the crew, fome of whom were froft- biiten, and others laid up with bad colds. We continued all this time ftanding four hours on each tack, having ge- nerally foundings of fixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the land ; but none at twice that diflance. On the 25th, we had a tranfient view of the entrance of Awatfka Sunday z^-.. Bay ; but, in the prefent ftate of the weather, we were afraid of venturing into it. Upon our ftanding off again, we loft fight of the Difcovery ; but, as we were now fo near the place of rendezvous, this gave us no great un- cafinefs. On the 28th, in the morning, the weather at laft cleared, Wednef. i%, and the wind fell to a light breeze from the fame quarter as before. We had a fine warm day ; and, as we now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in breaking the ice from off the rigging, mafts, and fails, in order to prevent its falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 520 44', and the longitude of 159', the en- trance of Awatfka Bay bore North Weft, diftant three or four leagues ; and, about three in the afternoon, a fair wind fprung up from the Southward, with which we flood in, having regular foundings, from twenty-two to {even fathoms. The 184 A V O Y A G E T O •77?- The mouth of the bay opens in a North North Weft di- rection. The land, on the South fide, is of a moderate height.; to the Northward, it rifes into a bluff head, which is the highcft part of the coaft. In the channel between them, near the North Eafl: fide, lie three remarkable rocks; and, farther in, near the oppofite coaft, a fingle de- tached rock of a conlidcrablc frze. On the North head there is a look-out houfe, which, when the Ruffians expect any of their mips upon the coaft, is ufed as a light-houfe. There was a flag-ftaff on it; buc we faw no lign of any perfon being there. Having paffed the mouth of the bay, which is about four miles long, we opened a large circular bafon of twenty-five miles in circumference ; and, at half paft four, came to an anchor in fix fathoms water, being afraid of running foul on a fhoal, or fome funk rocks, which are faid by Muller *, to lie in the channel of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. The middle of the bay was full of loofe ice, drifting with the tide; but the fhores were ftill entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild-fowl were ieen of various fpecies ; likewife ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland pigeons. We examined every corner of the bay, with our glafTcs, in fearch of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul; which, according to the accounts given us at Oonalafka, we had conceived to be a place of fome flrength and con- fideration. At length we difcovered, on a narrow point of land to the North North Eaft, a few miferable log-houfes, and fome conical huts, railed on poles, amounting in all to about thirty ; which, from their fituation, notwithftanding all the refpect we wifhed to entertain for a Ruffian ojtrog, * Voyages made by the Ruffians from Afia to America, &c. tranflated from the German ; by T. Jcflferys, p. 37. n we ±J> Hojpitti/ &■ S* fKTEK,,/,,/ STfJCL. S/in*yn/ fit/ William IMigh. Mailer „/-,/„■ Kelnlmi.m. High Water „r.\.:ui.,;, hull awrf Change ; 7/C- Tide /y*v Sort! fir/ t /■/'S'.PfUrA: S'.Paul PZuiX of/At JiAY "/' AWATSKA JEast Coast of A~.imtsch.itk.i tint/ S'.Fauls Hattxnir Lali Ss.o.ie.y. I.OI\jr. 1J8.J.T. <». /.'. Yar'.'c'.", A. ■779- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 1S5 we were under the neceflity of concluding; to be Petro- '779- 0 April. paulowfka. However, in juftice to the generous and ho- ' — * ' ipitable treatment we found here, I fhall beg leave to an- ticipate the reader's curiofity, by alluring him, that our dis- appointment proved to be more of a laughable than a feri- ous nature. For, in this wretched extremity of the earth, iituated beyond every tiling that we conceived to be mod barbarous and inhofpitablc, and, as it were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricaded with ice, and covered With fummer fnow, in a poor miferablc port, far inferior to the meaneft of our iifhing towns, we met with feelings of hu- manity, joined to a greatnefs of mind, and elevation of Sen- timent, which would have done honour to any nation or climate. During the night, much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at (Jay-light I was fent with the boats to examine the Thurfdaysj. bay, and deliver the letters we had brought from Oona- laflika to the Rufriah Commander. \Yc directed our courfe toward the village 1 have jufl mentioned, and having pro- ceeded as far as we were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which extended near half a mile from the more. Mr. Webber, and two of the Seamen, accompanied me, whilft the Matter took the pinnace and cutter to finffh the Survey, leaving the jolly-boat behind to carry us back. I believe the inhabitants had not yet Seen either the Ship or the boats ; for even after we had got on the ice, we could not perceive any Signs of a living creature in the town. By the time we had advanced a little way on the ice, we ob- served a few men hurrying backward and forward, and prcSently after, a fledge, drawn by dogs with one of the inhabitants in it, came down to the Sea-Side, oppoSite to us. Vol. III. B b Whilft »86 A VOYAGE TO •77Q- Whilft wc were gazing at this unufual fight, and admiring the great civility of this Granger, which we imagined had brought him to our afliftance, the man, after viewing us for fome time very attentively, turned fhort round, and went off, with great fpeed, toward the oftroj. We were not lefs chagrined than difappointed at this abrupt departure, as we began to find our journey over the ice, attended not only with great difficulty, but even with danger. We funk at every ftep almoft knee deep in the fnow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom, yet the weak parts of the ice not being discoverable, we were conftantly ex- pofed to the rifk of breaking through it. This accident ac la ft actually happened to myfelf; for flepping on quickly over a fufpicious fpot, in order to prefs with lefs weight upon it, I came upon a fecond, before I could flop myfelf, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily, I rofe clear of the ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook, throwing it to me, I laid it acrofs fome loofe pieces near me, and, by that means, was enabled to get upon firm ice again. As we approached the fliore, we found the ice, contrary to our expectations, more broken than it had been before. We were, however, again comforted by the fight of another fledge coming toward us, but inftead of proceeding to our Felief, the driver ftopt fhort, and began to call out to us. I immediately held up to him Ifmyloff's letters ; upon which he turned about, and fet off back again full fpeed ; fol- lowed, I believe, not with the prayers of any of our party. Being ac a great lofs what concluflons to draw from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued our march toward the ojlrog, with great circumfpection, and when we had ar- rived within a quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body i of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 187 of armed men marching toward us. That we might give '"?• 0 00 April. them as little alarm, and have as peaceable an appearance as poffible, the two men who had boat-hooks in their hands, were ordered into the rear, and Mr. Webber and myfelf marched in front. The Ruffian party, confiding of about thirty foldiers, was headed by a decent looking pcrfon, with a cane in his hand. He halted within a few yards of us, and drew up his men in a martial and good order. I deli- vered to him Ifmyloff's letters, and endeavoured to make him underftand, as well as I could (though I afterward found in vain), that we were English, and had brought them papers from Oonalafhka. After having examined us attentively, he began to conduct us toward the village, in great filence and folemnity, frequently halting his men, to form them in different manners, and make them perform fcvcral parts of their manual exercife, probably with a view to fhew us, that if we had the temerity to offer any violence* we fhould have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their bufincfs. Though I was all this time in my wet clothes, fhivering with cold, and fufhciently inclined to the mod uncondi- tional fubmiflion, without having my fears violently alarm- ed ; yet it was impoilible not to be diverted with this mili- tary parade, notwithstanding it was attended with the mod unfeafonable delay. At length, we arrived at the houfe of the Commanding Officer of the party, into which we were ufhered ; and, after no fmall ftir in giving orders, and dif- pofing of the military without doors, our holt made his ap- pearance, accompanied by another pcrfon, whom we un- derftood to be the Secretary of the port. One of IfmylofF's letters was now opened, and the other fent off, by a fpecial meflenger, to Bolcheretfk, a town on the Welt fide of the B b 2 peninfula 188 A V O Y A G E T O peninfula of Kamtfchatka, where the Ruffian Commander April. ' « — v — * of this province ufually refutes. It is very remarkable, that they had not feen the fliip the preceding day, when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning, till our boats were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the difcovery had ftruck them, wc found, had been very confiderablc. The garrifon was im- mediately put under arms. Two fmall field-pieces were placed at the entrance of the Commander's houfc, and pointed toward our boats ; and (hot, powder, and lighted matches were all ready at hand. The officer, in whefehoufe wc were at prefent entertained, was a Serjeant, and the Commander of the ojirog. Nothing could exceed the kindnefs and hofpitality of his behaviour, after he had recovered from the alarm occafioncd by our arrival. Wc found the houfe infufferably hot, but exceed- ingly neat and clean. After I had changed my clothes, which the Serjeant's civility enabled me to do, by furnifli- ing me with a complete fuit of his own, we were invited to fit down to dinner, which I have no doubt was the bell he could procure; and, considering the Ihortnefs of time he had to provide it, was managed with feme ingenuity. As there was not time to prepare foup and bouilli, wc had, in their ftead, fome cold beef fliced, with hot water poured over it. We had next a large bird roafted, of a fpecies with which I was unacquainted, but of a very excellent tafte. After having eaten a part of this, it was taken ofl", and wc were ferved with filh drefTed two different ways ; and, foon after, the bird again made its appearance, in favory and fweet pdtJs. Our liquor, of which I lhall have to fpeak hereafter, was of the kind called by the Ruffians quafs, and was T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 189 was much the word: part of the entertainment. The Ser- '779- jeant's wife brought in feveral of the difhes herfelf, and was not permitted to lit down at table. Having finifhed our re- paft, during which it is hardly necefTary to remark, that our converfation was confined to a few bows, and other figns of mutual refpec5t, we endeavoured to open to our hoft the caufe and objects of our vifit to this port. As IfmylofF had probably written to them on the fame fubjeft, in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the place that could talk any other language except Ruffian or Kamtfchadale, we found the utmoft difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey to us. After fome time fpent in thefe endeavours to undcrftand one another, we conceived the fum of the intelligence we had procured to be, that though no fupply, cither of provi- fions or naval (lores were to be had at this place, yet that thefe articles were in great plenty at Bolchcretfk. That the Commander would, moll probably, be very willing to give us what we wanted; but that, till the Serjeant had received orders from him, neither he nor his people, nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the (hip. It was now time for us to take our leave ; and, as my clothes were ftill too wet to put on, I was obliged to have rccourfc again to the Serjeant's benevolence, for his leave to carry thofe I had borrowed of him on board. This requeft was complied with very cheerfully, and a fledge, drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for each of our party. The failors were highly delighted with this mode of conveyance; and what diverted them ftill more was, that the two boat-hooks had alfo a fledge appropriated to themfelves. Thefe fledges are fo light, and their con- 3 ftrudiioa igo AVOYAGETO '?7?- ftruc~tion fo well adapted to the purpofes for which they are v— -v intended, that they went with great expedition, and perfect fafety, over the ice, which it would have been impoflible for us, with all our caution, to have pafled on foot. On our return, we found the boats towing the fliip toward the village ; and at feven we got clofe to the ice, and moored with the fmall bower to the North Eaft, and bell bovver to the South Weft ; the entrance of the bay bearing South by Eaft, and South three-quarters Eaft ; and the ojlrog North, one quarter Eaft, diftant one mile and a half. The Friday 30. next morning, the calks and cables were got upon the quarter-deck, in order to lighten the fhip forward ; and the carpenters were fet to work to flop the leak, which had given us fo much trouble during our laft run. It was found to have been occafioned by the falling of fome fheathing from the larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been wafhed our. The warm weather we had in the middle of the day, began to make the ice break away very faft, which, drifting with the tide, had al- moft filled up the entrance of the bay. Several of our gen- tlemen paid their vifits to the Serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility ; and Captain Clerke fent him two bottles of rum which he underftood would be the mod acceptable prefent he could make him, and received in re- turn fome fine fowls of the groufe kind, and twenty trouts. Our fportfmen met with but bad fuccefs ; for though the bay iwarmed with flocks of ducks of various kinds, and Greenland pigeons, yet they were fo fhy, that they could not come within fhot of them. M»y, In the morning of ihc ift of May, feeing the Difcovcry Handing into the bay, a boat was immediately fent to her a Aula nee; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i?s affiflance; and in the afternoon, fhe moored clofe by us. '779- May. They told us, that after the weather cleared up on the 28th, < — ^*_* the day on which fhe had parted company, they found themfelves to leeward of the bay, and that, when they got abreaft of it, the following day, and faw the entrance choaked up with ice, they flood off, after firing guns, con- cluding we could not be here ; but finding afterward it was only loofe drift-ice, they had ventured in. The next day, Sunday*, the weather was fo very unfettled, attended with heavy fhowers of fnow, that the carpenters were not able to pro- ceed in their work. The thermometer flood at 280 in the evening, and the frofl was exceedingly fevcre in the night. The following morning, on our obferving two fledges Monday 5. drive into the village, Captain Clerke fent me on fhore, to inquire whether any mefTage was arrived from the Com- mander of Kamtfchatka, which, according to the ferjcant's account, might now be expected, in confequence of the in- telligence that had been fent of our arrival. Bolcheretfk, by the ufual route, is about one hundred and thirty-five Englifh miles from Saint Peter and Saint Paul's. Our dii- patches were fent off in a fledge drawn by dogs, on the 29th, about noon. And the anfwer arrived, as we afterward found, early this morning ; fo that they were only a little more than three days and a half in performing a journey or two hundred and feventy miles. The return of the Commander's anfwer was, however, concealed from us for the prefent ; and I was told, on my arrival at the ferjeant's, that we fhould hear from him the next day. Whilft I was on fhore, the boat, which had brought me, together with another belonging to the Dilco- very, were fet faft in the ice, which a Southerly wind had driven iQz AVOYAGETO driven from the other fide of the bay. On feeing them en- «. — „— — . tangled, the Difcovery's launch had been fent to their af- iiftancc, but foon ihared the fame fate; and, in amort time, the ice had furrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to (lay on fhore till evening, when finding no profpect of getting the boats off, iome of us went in lledges to the edge of the ice, and were taken off by boats lent from the fhip, and the reft ftaid on fliore all night. It continued to freeze hard during the night ; but, before Tuefday4. morning, on the 4th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and fct the boats at liberty, without their hav- ing fuftained the fmalleft damage. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we faw feveral lledges driving down the edge of the ice, and lent a boat to con- duel: the perfons who were in them on board. One of thefc was a Ruffian merchant from Bolchcrcn'k, named Fedo- iitfch, and the other a German, called Porr, who had brought a letter from Major Behm, the Commander of Kamtfchatka, to Captain Clerke. When they got to the edge of the ice, and law dillinctly the fizeof the (hips, which lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared to be exceedingly alarmed; and, before they would venture to embark, defired two of our boat's crew might be left on fhore as hoilages for their fafety. We afterward found, that Ifmyloff, in his letter to the commander, had mifreprefented us, for what ieal'ons we could not conceive, as two fmall trading boats, and that the ferjeanr, who had only fecn the Chips at a dftance, had not, in his difpatches, rectified the miitake. When they arrived on board, we Hill found, from their cautious and timorous behaviour, that they were under fomc unaccountable apprcheniions ; and an uncommon de- gree THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 193 £ree of fatisfaction was vifible in their countenances, on the '779- 0 May. German's finding a perfon amongft us, with whom he could <• — » — -» converfe. This was Mr. Webber, who fpoke that language perfectly well; and at laft, though with fome difficulty, con- vinced them, that we were Englishmen, and friends. Mr. Port being introduced to Captain Clerke, delivered to him the Commander's letter, which was written in German, and was merely complimental, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretfk, to which place the people, who brought ir, were to conduct us. Mr. Port, at the fame time, acquainted him, that the Major had conceived a very wrong idea of the fize of the mips, and of the fervice we were engaged in ; Ifmyloff, in his letter, having reprefented us as two fmall Englifh pacquet boats, and cautioned him to be on his guard ; infinuating, that he fufpected us to be no better than pirates. In confequence of this letter,, he faid, there had been various conjectures formed about us at Bolche- retfk: that the Major thought it mod probable we were on a trading fcheme, and for that reafon had fent down a mer- chant to us ; but that the officer, who was fecond in com- mand, was of opinion we were French, and come with fome hoftile intention, and were for taking meafures accordingly. It had required, he added, all the Major's authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the town, and retiring up into the country; to fo extraordinary a pitch had their fears rifen,. from their perfuafion that we were French. Their extreme apprchenfions of that nation were princi- pally occafioned, by fome circumftances attending an infur- rection that had happened, at Bolcheretfk, a few years be- fore, in which" the Commander had loft his life. We were informed, that an exiled Polifh officer, named Beniowfki, taking advantage of the confufion into which the town was Vol. III. C c thrown, A VOYAGE TO tin own, had feizcd upon a galliot, then lying at the entrance —J— -j of the Bolfchoireeka, and had forced on board a number of Ruffian iailors, fuflicient to navigate her: that he had put on ihore a part of the crew at the Kourilc Iflands ; and, among the reft, Ifmyloff, who, as the reader will recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly, at Oonalallika, with the hiftory of this tranlaction ; though, for want of underftanding his language, we could not then make out all the circumllances attending it : that he palled in fight of Japan •, made Luco- nia; and was there directed how to fleer to Canton: that, ar- riving there, he had applied to the French, and had got a paflage in one of their India fhips to France: and that mod: of the Ruffians had likewife returned to Europe in French (hips; and had afterward found their way to Pcterfbufg. We met with three of Beniowiki's crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and from them we learnt the circumllances of the above ftory. On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corrobora- tion of the facts, from the gentlemen of the Fnglifh factor)', who told us, that a pcrfon had arrived there in a Ruffian galliot, who faid he came from Kamtfchatka ; and that he had been furnifhed by the French factory, with a pailage to Europe *. We could not help being much diverted with the fears and apprehenfions of ihefe good people, and particularly with the account M. Port gave us of the ferjeant's wary pro- ceedings the day before. On feeing me come on more, in company with fome other gentlemen, he had made him and the merchant, who arrived in the Hedges we had fecn come * It hath fnice appeared, from the account of Kerguelen's Voyage, that this extraordinary perfon, who had entered into the French fcrvice, was commander of a l>ew icttlcmcnt at Madagafcar, when Kcrguelen touched there in 1774. 7 in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *9S in the morning, hide themfelves in his kitchen, and liften lJ79t May. to our converfation with one another, in hopes, that by this v .-„ — > means, they might difcover whether we were really Engliih or not. As we concluded, from the commiffion and drefs of M. Port, that he might probably be the Commander's fecretary, he was received as fuch, and invited, with his companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke : and though we foon began to fufpedt, from the behaviour of the latter to- ward him, that he was only a common fervant, yet this be- ing no time to facrifice our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, by not fuffering the queftion to be put to him ; and, in return for the fatisfaclion we reaped from his abilities as a linguift, we continued to let him live on a footing of equality with us. C c 2 CHAP. 196 AVOYAGETO 1779. May. CHAP. II. Scarcity of Provifons and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. — A Party fet out to vijit the Commander at Bolcheretjk. — Pajfage up the River Awatjka. — Accou?it of their Reception by the Toion of Karat chin, — Defcription of a Kamtfchadale Drefs. — Journey on Sledges. — Defcription of this Mode of Travelling. — Arrival at Natcheekin. — Account of hot Springs. — Embark on the Bolchoireka. — Reception at the Capital. — Generous and hof pit able ConduSi of the Commander and the Garrifon. — Defcription of Bolche- retjk.— Prefents from the Commander. — Ruffian and Kamtfchadale Dancing. — Affetl'mg Departure from Bolcheretjk. — Return to Saint Peter a?td Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who vifts the Ships. — Ge- nerojity of the Sailors. — Difpatchcs fent by Major Behm to Peterfburg. — His Departure and Characler. BEING now enabled to convcrfe with the Ruffians, by the aid of our interpreter, with tolerable facility, our fir ft inquiries were directed to the means of procuring a fup- ply of frefh provifions, and naval (lores ; from the want of Which latter article, in particular, we had been for fome time in great diftrefs. On inquiry, it appeared, that the whole Hock of live cattle, which the country about the bay 2 could THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 197 could furnifh, amounted only to two heifers ; and thefe the J779- ferjeant very readily promifed to procure us. Our applica- '-■ -«--j tions were next made to the merchant, but we found the terms, upon which he offered to ferve us, fo exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it neceffary to fend an officer to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk, and to inquire into the price of ftores at that place. As foon as this determi- nation was communicated to Mr. Port, he difpatched an exprefs to the Commander, to inform him of our intentions, and, at the fame time, to clear us from the fufpicions that were entertained with refpecl: to the defignation and purpofes of our voyage. Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for Tuefday +. this fervice, I received orders, together with Mr. Webber, who was to accompany me as interpreter, to be ready to fet out the next day. It proved, however, too flormy, as did Wednef.5. alfo the 6th, for beginning a journey through fo wild and Thurfdayfi. defolate a country ; but, on the 7th, the weather appearing tridayy. more favourable, we fet out early in the morning in the fhip's boats, with a view to reach the entrance of the Awatfka at high water, on account of the fhoals with which the mouth of that river abounds : here the country boats were to meet us, and carry us up the flream. Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Meffrs. Port and Fedofitfch, with two coffacks, and were provided, by our conductors, with warm furred clothing ; a precaution which we foon found very neccf- fary, as it began to mow brifkly juft after we fet out. At eight o'clock, being (topped by fhoal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river, fome fmall canoes, belonging to the Kamtfchadalcs, took up us and our baggage, and carried 19- A VOYAGE TO '"79- carried us over a fpit of fand, which is thrown up by the Jl^j rapidity of the river, and which, they told us, was continu- ally fhifting. When wc had croffed this fhoal, the water again deepened ; and here we found a commodious boat, built and maped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up the river, together with canoes for our baggage. The mouth of the Awatika is about a quarter of a mile broad ; and as we advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few miles, we palled fevcral branches, which, wc were told, emptied thcmfclvcs into other parts of the bay ; and that fome of thofe on the left hand, flowed into the Paratounca river. lis general direc- tion from the bay, for the firft ten miles, is to the North, after which it turns to the Weflward: this bend excepted, it prcferves, for the moil part, a ftraight courfc ; and the coun- try, through which it flows, to the diftance of near thirty miles from the fea, is low and flat, and fubje<5t to frequent inundations. We were puflied forward by fix men, with long poles, three at each end of the boat; two of whom were coflacks, the others Ivamtfchad ales ; and advanced againll a flrong flream, at the rate, as well as I could judge, of about three miles an hour. Our Kamtfchadales bore this fevere labour, with great iloutnefs, for ten hours ; during which wc Hopped only once, and that for a fhort time, whillt they took fome little refrefhment. As we had been told, at our fir ft fctting out in the morning, that we fhould cafily reach an OJIroj, called Karatchin, the fame night, wc were much difappointcd to find ourfelvcs, at fun-fet, fifteen miles from that place. This we attributed to the delay oc- cafioned in palling the Ihoals wc had met with, both at the entrance of the river, and in fevcral other places, as we pro- ceeded up it : for our boat being the lirlt that had palled up the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the river, the guides were not acquainted with the fituation »779- of the fhifting fand-banks, and unfortunately the fnow not w.-y-— having yet begun to melt, the fhallownefs of the river was at its extreme. The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the dif- ficulty of navigating the river, which would have been much increafed by the darknefs of the night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing our journey that even- ing. Having therefore found a place tolerably fheltered, and cleared it of the fnow, we erected a fmall marquee, which we had brought with us; and, by the afliftancc of a brifk lire, and fome good punch, palled the night not very un- . pleafantly. The only inconvenience we laboured under was, the being obliged to make the fire at fome diftance from us. For, although the ground was, to all appear- ance, dry enough before, yet when the fire was lighted, it foon thawed all the parts round it into an abfolute puddle. We admired much the alertnefs and expedition with which the Kamtfchadalcs erected our marquee, and cooked our pro- vifions ; but what was mod unexpected, we found they had brought with them their tea-kettles, confidering it as the greateft of hardfliips not to drink tea two or three times a day. We fet out as foon as it was light, in the morning, and Saturdays. had not advanced far, before we were met by the Toion, or Chief of Karatchin, who had been apprized of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and better con- trived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A com- modious vefTel, confiding of two canoes, lathed clofe to- gether with crofs ("pars, lined with bear-fkins, and fur- nifhed with fur cloaks, was alfo provided for us. We now went !9D 200 A VOYAGE TO 1779- went on very rapidly, the Toioris people being both flout and — v-^— ' frefh, and remarkable for their expertnefs in this bufinefs. At ten \vc got to the OJrog, the feat of his command, where we were received at the water-fide by the Kamtfchadale men and women, and fome Ruflian fervants belonging to Fedo- fitfch, who were employed in making canoes. They were ail dreffed out in their bed clothes. Thofe of the women were pretty and gay, confifting of a full loofe robe, of white nankeen, gathered clofe round the neck, and fattened with a collar of coloured filk. Over this they wore a fhort jacket, without lleevcs, made of different coloured nankeens, and petticoats of a flight Chincfe filk. Their fhifts, which had lleevcs down to the wrifts, were alfo of filk; and coloured filk handkerchiefs were bound round their heads, conceal- ing entirely the hair of the married women, whilft thofe who were unmarried, brought the handkerchief under the hair, and fuffcrcd it to flow loofe behind. This ojlrog was pleafantly fituated by the fide of the river; and confiftcd of three log-houfes; three jturfs, or houfes made under ground ; and nineteen balagans, or fummer ha- bitations. We were conducted to the dwelling of the Toion, who was a plain decent man, born of a Ruflian woman, by a Kamtfchadale father. His houfe, like all the reft in this country, was divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it, was all the furniture we faw in the outer ; and the houfehold fluff of the inner, which was the kitchen, was not lefs Ample and fcanty. But the kind attention of our hoft, and the hearty welcome we received, more than compenfated for the poverty of his lodgings. His THE PACIFIC OCEAN. His wife proved an excellent cook ; and ferved us with fifh and game of different forts, and various kinds of heath- berries, that had been kept fince the lafl year. Whilft we were at dinner in this miferable hut, the guefls of a people, with whofe exiflence we had before been fcarce acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a folitary, half- worn pewter fpoon, whofe fhape was familiar to us, at- tracted our attention ; and, on examination, we found it ftamped on the back with the word London. I cannot pafs over this circumftance in filence, out of gratitude for the many pleafant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender re- membrances it excited in us. Thofe, who have experienced the effects that long abfence and extreme diflancc from their native country produce on the mind, will readily conceive the pleafure fuch trifling incidents can give. To the philo- fopher and the politician they may perhaps fugged reflec- tions of a different nature. We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on fledges ; but the thaw had been too power- ful in the day-time, to allow us to fet out, till the cold of the evening had again made the furface of the fnow hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the village, which was the only place we had yet feen free from fnow fince we landed in this country. It flood upon a well-wooded flat, of about a mile and a half in cir- cumference. The leaves were juft budding, and the verdure of the whole fcene was flrongly contrafted with the fides of the furrounding hills, which were flill covered with fnow. As the foil appeared to me very capable of producing all the common forts of garden vegetables, I was greatly furprifed not to find the fmalleft fpot any where cultivated. If to this we add, that none of the inhabitants were poiTcfled of cattle of any fort, nothing can be well conceived more Vol. III. D d wretched •or 202 A VOYAGE TO 1779- wretched than their fituation muft be during the winter ^ ',_, months. They were at this time removing from their jourts into their balaganst which afforded us an opportunity of ex- amining both thefe forts of habitations ; and they will be hereafter more particularly defcribed. The people invited us into their houfes with great good humour ; a general air of cheerfulncfs and content was every where vifible, to- which the approaching change of feafon might probably not a little contribute. On our return to the Tbion's, we found fupper prepared for us, which differed in nothing from our former repaft ; and concluded with our treating the Toion and his wife with fome of the fpirits, we had brought with us, made into punch. Captain Gore, who had great generofity on all oc- cafions, having afterward made them fome valuable pre- fents, they retired to the kitchen, leaving us in poffeffion of the outward room, where, fpreading our bear-fkins on the benches, we were glad to get a little repofe, having fettled with our conductors to refume our journey, as foon as the ground ihould be judged fit for travelling. About nine o'clock, the fame evening, we were awakened by the melancholy bowlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was ladling upon the fledges ; but, as foon as they were yoked, and we were all prepared to fet our, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, which intirely ceafed the inftant they marched off. Bur, before we fet out, the Reader may expetft to be made more particularly ac- quainted with this curious mode of travelling. The figure of the fledges will be bed conceived by the annexed engraving, which was taken from one I brought over with me, that is now in the poffeffion of Sir Afhton Lever. The body is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide, made in the form of a crefcent, of light tough 2 wood, THE PACIFIC'OCEAN. 203 wood, ftrongly bound together with wicker work ; which '7'9- in thofe belonging to the better fort of people is elegantly < „ » ftainedof a red and blue colour, and the feat covered withbear- fkins, or other furs. It is fupported by four legs, about two feet high, which reft on two long flat pieces of wood, five or fix inches broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the fledge. Thcfe arc turned up before in the man- ner of a fkate, and fliod with the bone of fomc fea animal. The fore-part of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of leather and taffels of coloured cloth ; and from the crofs bar, to which the harnefs is joined, are hung links of iron, or fmall bells, the jingling of which they conceive to be en- couraging to the dogs. They are feldom ufed to carry more than one perfon at a time, who fits afide, refting his feet on the lower part of the fledge, and carrying his provifions and other necefTaries, wrapped up in a bundle, behind him. The dogs are ufually five in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins not being fattened to the head of the dogs, but to the collar, have little power over them, and are therefore generally hung upon the iledge, whilll the driver depends entirely on their obedience to his voice for the direction of them. With this view, the leader is always trained up with a particular degree of care and attention ; fome of them rifing to a mod extraordinary value on account of their docility and fteadinefs ; infomuch, that for one of thefe,I am well affured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unufual price. The driver is alfo provided with a crooked ftick, which anfwers the purpofe both of whip and reins-; as by ftriking it into the fnow, he is enabled to moderate the fpeed of the dogs, or even to flop them entirely ; and when they are lazy, or otherwife inattentive to his voice, he chaf- tifes them by throwing it at them. Upon thefc occafions, their dexterity in picking it up again is very remarkable, D d 2 and 2C4 AVOYAGETO »779- and forms the principal difficult v of their art. But it is May. i <. — s-~j indeed not furprifing, that they fhould labour to be fkil- ful in a practice upon which their fafety fo materially de- pends. For they fay, that if the driver fhould happen to lofe his flick, the dogs will inflantly perceive it; and unlefs their leader be of the mod fober and rcfolute kind, they will im- mediately run a-hcad full fpecd, and never flop till they are quite fpent. But as that will not be the cafe foon, it gene- rally happens, that either the carriage is overturned, and dafhed to pieces againfl the trees, or they hurry down fome precipice, and are all buried in the mow. The accounts that were given us of the fpeed of thefe dogs, and of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were fcarcely credible, if they had not been fupported by the befl autho- rity. We were indeed ourfclvcs witnefTes of the great expedition with which the mefTenger, who had been dif- patched to Bolchcretfk with the news of our arrival, re- turned to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, though the mow was, at this time, exceedingly foft. But I was in- formed, by the Commander of Kamtfchatka, that this jour- ney was generally performed in two days and a half; and that he had once received an exprefs from the latter place in twenty-three hours. The dogs are fed, during the winter, on the offals of ied and finking fifh ; but are always deprived of this mi- ferable food, a day before they fct out on a journey, and never fuffered to eat bcrorc they reach the end of it. We were alio told, that it was not unufual for them to continue thus falling two entire days, in which time they would per- form a journey of one hundred and twenty miles ;. Thefe dogs * Extraordinary as this may appear, Krafchininikofr", whofe account of Kamt- | atka, from every thing that 1 f.iw, and had an opportunity of comparing it with, feems THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 2cr dogs are, in fliape, fomewhat like the Pomeranian breed, but '~79- confiderably larger. < J—~* As we did not choofe to trufl to our own fkill, we had each of us a man to drive and guide the Hedge, which, from the ftate the roads were now in, proved a very labo- rious bufinefs. For, as the thaw had advanced very confi- derably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the neceflity of keeping along the fides of the hills ; and this obliged our guides, who were provided with fnow- fhoes for that purpofe, to fupport the fledges, on the lower fide, with their moulders, for fcveral miles together. I had a very good-humoured CofTack to attend me, who was, however, fo very unfkilful in his bufmefs, that we were overturned almofl every minute, to the great entertainment of the reft of the company. Our party confided, in all, of ten fledges. That in which Captain Gore was carried, was made of two lafhed together, and abundantly provided with furs and bear-fkins ; it had ten dogs, yoked four abrcafl; as had alfo fome of thofe that were heavy laden with baggage. When we had proceeded about four miles, it began to rain ; which, added to the darknefs of the night, threw us all into confufion. It was at laft agreed, that we fhould re- main, where we were, till day-light ; and accordingly we came to anchor in the fnow (for I cannot better exprefs the manner in which the fledges were fecured), and wrapping feems to me to deferve entire credit ; and whofe authority I Jhall, therefore, frequently have recourfe to ; relates inftances of this kind, that are much more furprifing. " Travelling parties," fays he, " are often overtaken with dreadful ftorms of fnow, " on the approach of which, they drive, with the utmo ft precipitation, into the neareji " wood, and there are obliged to ftay, till the tempefr, which frequently lairs fix or " fevendays, is over ; the dogs remaining all this while quiet and inofFenfive ; ex- " cept that, fometimes, when preft by hunger, they will devour their reins, and the ** other leathern parts of the harnefs." Hijlory and Defniption of Kamtfchatka, by Krafchiniuihff.. i ourielves- Sunday 9. 206 A VOYAGE TO '779' ourfelves up in our furs, waited pat. .~ , for the morning. j About three o'clock we were called on l iet out, our guides being apprehenfivc, that if we waited longer, we might be flopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed, nor to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were principally occafioned by the bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon, we got fafe to an ojlrog* called Nat- checkin, fituated on the fide of a fmall flream, which falls into the Bolchoircka, a little way below the town. The diflance between Karatchin and Natcheekin is thirty-eight werfls (or twenty-five miles) ; and had the hard frofl conti- nued, we fhould not, by their account, have been more than four hours in performing it ; but the fnow was fo foft, that the dogs, almoft at every flep, funk up to their bellies; and. I was indeed much furprifed at their being at all able to overcome the difficulties of fo fatiguing a journey. Natcheekin is a very inconfiderable ojlrog, having only one log-houfc, the refidence of the Tokn ; five balagans, and one joint. We were received here with the fame formalities, and in the fame hofpitable manner, as at Karatchin ; and in the afternoon we went to vifit a remarkable hot fpring, which is near this village. We faw, at fome diflance, the fleam rifing from it, as from a boiling caldron ; and as wc approached, perceived the air had a flrong fulphureous fmcll. The main fpring forms a bafon of about three feet in dia- meter -, befides which, there are a number of lefler fpiings, of the fame degree of heat, in the adjacent ground ; fo that the whole fpor, to the extent of near an acre, was fo not, that wc could not fland two minutes in the fame place. The water flowing from thefe fprings is collected in a fmall bathing pond, and afterward forms a little rivulet ; which, at the diflance of about an hundred and fifty yards, fails into the river. The bath, they told us, had wrought great cures THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 207 cures in feveral diforders, fuch as rheumatifm3, fwelled and !779- May. contracted joints, and fcorbutic ulcers. In the bathing- <-— .v— -^ place the thermometer flood at 100s, or blood heat ; but in the fpring, after being immerfed two minutes, it was i° above boiling fpirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time, was 340; in the river 400; and in the Toion's houfe 64*. The ground where thefe fprings break out, is on a gentle afcent ; behind which there is a green hill of a moderate fize, I am forry I was not fufficiently fkilled in botany to examine the plants, which feemed to thrive here with great luxuriance ; the wild garlic, indeed, forced itfelf on our notice, and was at this time fpringing up very vigoroufly. The next morning, we embarked on the Bolchoireka in Monday 10. canoes ; and, having the flream with us, expected to be at our journey's end the day following. The town of Bolche- retfk is about eighty miles from Natcheekin ; and we were informed, that, in the iummer fcafon, when the river has been full and rapid, from the melting of fnow on the moun- tains, the canoes had often gone down in a fingle day ; but that, in its prefent flate, we fhould probably be much longer, as the ice had broken up only three days before we arrived ; and that ours would be the firft boat that had attempted to pafs. This intelligence proved but too true. We found ourfelves greatly impeded by the fhallows ; and though the flream, in many places, ran with great rapidity, yet every half mile, we had ripplings and fhoals, over which we were obliged to haul the boats. The country, on each fide, was very romantic, but unvaried ; the river running be- tween mountains of the moil craggy and barren afpeCf, where there was nothing to diverfify the fcene ; but now and then the fight of a bear, and the flights of wild-fowl. So uninterclung a paffage leaves me nothing farther to fay, than. oo3 AVOYAGETO •779- than that this, and the following night, we flept on the « , — -» banks of the river, under our marquee ; and fuffered very much from the feverity of the weather, and the fnow, which ftill remained on the ground. wednef. 12. At day-light on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and were entering a low extenfive plain, co- vered with fhrubby trees. About nine in the forenoon, we arrived at an oftrog, called Opatchin, which is computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of the fame fize as Karatchin. We found here a ferjeant with four Ruffian foldiers, who had been two days waiting for our arrival ; and who immediately difpatched a light boat to Bolchcretfk, with intelligence of our approach. We were now put into the trammels of formality; a canoe, furnifhed with fkins and furs, and equipped in a magnificent man- ner, was prepared for our reception, in which we were ac- commodated much at our eafe, but to the cxclufion of the reft of our fellow-travellers. It was with much regret we found ourfelves obliged to feparate from our old companion Moniieur Port, whom we had obferved to grow every day more ihy and diftant, as we drew nearer the end of our jour- ney. Indeed, he had himfelf told us, before we fet out, that we paid him a refpect he had no title to; but as we found him a very modeft and difcreet man, we had infilled on his living with us during the whole or' our journey. The remainder of our paflagc was performed with great facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid, as we de- scended, and lefs obiliuctcd by moals. As we approached the capital, wc were forry to obferve, t man appearance of much flir and bufllc, that we were 10 be received in form. Decent clothes had been, for fome time, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 209 time, a fcarce commodity amongft us ; and our travelling ^9- dreffes were made up of a burlefque mixture of European, Indian, and Kamtfchatdale fafhions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtfchatka ; and as we faw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the Com- mander would be at the water-fide to receive us, we (topped fliort at a foldier's houfe, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we fent Port with a meffage to his Ex- cellency, acquainting him, that the moment we had put off our travelling drefTes, we would pay our refpeets to him at his own houfe ; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct us. Finding, however, that he perfifted in his in- tentions of paying us this compliment, we loft no far- ther time in attiring ourfelves, but made all the hafte in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I obferved my companions to be as awkward as I felt myfelf, in mak- ing our firft falutations ; bowing and fcraping being marks of good-breeding that we had now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccuftomed to. The manner in which we were received by the Commander, was the mod enga- ging that could be conceived, and increafed my mortification, at finding, that he had almoft entirely forgot the French language ; fo that the fatisfaction of converfing with him was wholly confined to Mr. Webber, who fpoke the Ger- man, his native tongue. In company with Major Behm, was Csptain Shmaleff, the fecond in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They conducted us to the Commander's houfe, where we were received by his lady with great civility, and found tea and other refresh- ments prepared for us. After the firft compliments were Vol. III. E e . over, aio AVOYAGETO '779- over, Mr. Webber was defired to acquaint the Major with the object, of our journey, -with our want of naval flores, flour, and frefli provifions, and other necefTaries for the fhips crews ; and at the fame time to afTure him, that we were fenfible, from what we had already feen of the condition of the country about Awatfka Bay, we could not expect much afliftance from him in that quarter ; that the impol- fibility of fending heavy {lores acrofs the peninfula, during the prefent feafon of the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in our journey ; and that, long before any material change could take place, we mould be under the necefEty of proceeding on our voyage. We were here interrupted by the Commander, who ob- ferved, that we did not yet know what they were capable of doing j that, at Icaft, it was not his bufinefs to think of the difficulties of fupplying our wants, but only to learn what were the articles we flood in need of, and the longefl time we could allow him, for procuring them. After exprefling our fenfe of his obliging difpofition, we gave him a lift of the naval flores, the number of cattle, and the quantity of flour, we were directed to purchafe, and told him, that we purpofed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June. Our converfation afterward turned upon different fubjects; and it will naturally be fuppofed, that our inquiries were principally directed to the obtaining fome information re- fpecting our own country. Having now been abfent three years, \vc had flattered ourfelvcs with the certainty of re- ceiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being intcrefling ; and I cannot cxprefs the difappoint- ment wc felt, on finding, that he had no news to commu- nicate THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 211 nicate of a much later date than that of our departure from '"79- England. About feven o'clock, the Commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our journey, and defirous of taking fome repofe, begged he might conduct us to our lodgings. It was in vain that we protefled againfl a compliment which we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being Grangers ; a circumftance which feemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to counterbalance every other con- fideration. In our way, we parted by two guard -houfes, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to Captain Gore ; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent houfe, which the Major gave us to underfland was to be our refidence, during our flay. Two fentinels were polled at the door ; and in a houfe adjoining, there was a ferjeant's guard. Having fhewn us into our apartments> the Major took his leave, with a promife to fee us the next day; and we were left to find out, at our leifure, all the conveniencies that he had moil amply provided for us. A foldicr, called a putproperfekack, whofe rank is between that of a ferjeant and corporal, along with our fellow-traveller Port, were appointed to be our male domeftics ; befides whom, there was a houfe-kceper and a cook, who had or- ders to obey Port's directions in dreiling us a fupper, accord- ing to our own mode of cookery. We received many civil mefTages, in the courfe of the evening, from the principal people of the town, purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues, by paying their refpeets to us at that time, but would wait on us in the morning. Such well-fupportcd politenefs and attention in a country fo defolate and uncul- tivated, formed a contrail exceedingly favourable to its in- habitants; and to finifh the piece as it began, at fun-fet the E e 2 ferjeant 212 A VOYAGE TO >7-9- ferjeant came with the report of his guard to Captain i <—> Gore. Thurfday 13. Early in the morning, we received the compliments of the Commander, of Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal in- habitants of the town, who all honoured us with vifits foon after. The two firft having fent for Port, after we were gone to reft, and inquired of him, what articles we fcemed to be mod in want of on board the mips ; we found them prepared to infift on our fharing with the garrifon under their command, in what little ftock of provifions they bad remaining. At the fame time they lamented, that we bad arrived at a feafon of the year, when there was always the greatert fcarcity of every thing amongft them ; the floops not being yet arrived, with their annual fupply, from Okotfk. We agreed to accept the liberality of thefe hofpitable ftrangers, with the beft grace we could; but on condition, that we might be made acquainted with the price of the ar- ticles we were to be fupplicd with ; and that Captain Gierke fhould give bills to the amount, upon the Victualling Office in London. This the Major pofnivcly refufed ; and when- ever it was afterward urged, flopped us fliort, by telling us, he was certain, that he could not oblige his Miftrefs more, than in giving every afliftance in his power to her good friends and allies the Enghfli ; and that it would be a parti- cular fatisfaction to her, to hear, that in fo remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any relief to fliips engaged in fuch fervices as ours ; that he could not there- fore act fo contrary to the character of his Emprcfs, as to accept of any bills ; but that, to accommodate the matter, he would take a bare attcftation of the particulars, with which THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 213 which we might be furnifhed ; and that this he mould '779- , May. tranfmit to his Court, as a certificate of having performed his duty. I fhall leave (he continued) to the two Courts, all farther acknowledgments ; but cannot confent to accept any- thing of the kind alluded to. When this matter was adjuftcd, he began to inquire about our private wants ; faying, he mould confider himfelf as ill ufed, if we had any dealings with the merchants, or applied to any other perfon except himfelf. In return for fuch lingular generofity, we had little to bellow but our admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had fent by me a let of prints an 1 maps, belonging to the lafl voyage of Ciptain Cook, which he defired me to preftnt in his name to the Commander; who being an enthufiaft in every thing relating to difcove- ries, received it with a fatisfaction which fhewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewife intruded me with a discretion- ary power of fhewing him a chart of the difcoveries made in the prefent voyage ; and as I judged, that a perfon in his Situation, and of his turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this fort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to afk more than a few general queftions on the fubject, I made no fcruple to repofe in him a-confidence, of which his whole conduct mewed him to be deferving. I had the pleafure to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he would, and was much ftruck at feeing, in one view, the whole of that coaft, as well on the fide of Afia as on that of America, of which his countrymen had been fo many 7 years 214 A VOYAGE TO •779- years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect knowledge*. Excepting this mark of confidence, and the fet of prints I have already mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the lead worth his acceptance ; for it fcarce deferves noticing, that I prevailed on his fon, a young boy, to accept of a filver watch I happened to have about me; and I made his little daughter very happy with two pair of car-rings, of French pafle. Befides thefe trifles, I left with Captain ShmalefF the thermometer I had ufed on my journey ; and he promifed me, to keep an exact regifter of the temperature of the air for one year, and to tranfmit it to Mr. Muller, with whom he had the pleafure of being acquainted. We dined this day at the Commander's, who, ftudious on every occafion to gratify our curiofity, had, befides a num- ber of dimes dreflcd in our own way, prepared a great va- riety of others, after the Ruflian and Kamtfchadale manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town, and the adjacent country. Bolcherctik is fituatcd in a low fwampy plain, that extends to the fea of Okotfk, being about forty miles long, and of a confiderable breadth. It * On this occafion, Major Bchm permitted us to examine all the maps anJ charts that were in his pofleflion. Thofe relating to the peninfulaof the Tfchutfti, were made in conformity to the information collected by Plenifhncr, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of Pleniflbtner were afterward made ufe of, according to Mr. Coxe, in the compilation of the Gen< ral M 1 uflia, | ubliflied by the Academy in 1-776, it may be 1 . to obferve, that we found them exceedingly erroneous; and that the compilers of the Genera] Map feem to have been led into fomc miftakes on his authority. J hofe, in which the i (lands on the coaft of America were laid down, found to contain nothing new, and to be mu accurate than thofe we faw ' at Oonalafhka. lies T H E P A C I F I C O C E A' N. 315 lies on the North fide of the Bolchoi-reka (or great river), '779- between the mouth of the Gottfofka and the Biftraia, which here empty themfelves into this river; and the peninfula, on which it {lands, has been feparated from the continent by a large canal, the work of the prefent Commander ; which has not only added much to its flrength as a fortrefs, but has made it much lefs liable, than it was before, to inundations. Below the town, the river is from fix to eight feet deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itfelf into the fea of Okotfk, at the diflance of twenty-two miles ; where, according to KraiheninicofF, it is capable of admitting vefiels of a confiderable fize. There is no corn, of any fpecies, cultivated in this part of the country ; and Major Bqhm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted. The ground was, for the moll part, covered with fnow ; that which was free from it appeared full of fmall hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I faw about twenty or thirty cows ; and the Major had fix flout horfes. Thefc, and their dogs, are the only tame animals they pof- fefsj the neceflity they are under, in the prefent flateof the country, of keeping great numbers of the latter, making it impoflible to bring up any cattle, that are not in fize and flrength a match for them. For, during the fummcr fea- fon, their dogs are entirely let loofe, and left to pro- vide for themfelves ; which makes them fo exceedingly ravenous, that they will fometimes even attack the bul- locks. The houfes in Bolcheretfk are all of one fafhion, being built of logs, and thatched. That of the Commander is much larger than the reft, confiding of three rooms of a confiderable fize, neatly papered, and which might have been reckoned handfome, if the tale with which the win- 3 dows 216 AVOYAGETO • 779- clows were covered, had not given them a poor and dif- i—v—' agreeable appearance. The town confifts of feveral rows of low buildings, each confifting of five or fix dwellings, con- nected together, with a long common paffage running the length of them ; on one fide of which is the kitchen and fcore-houie ; and on the other the dwelling apartments. Befides ihefe, are barracks for the Ruffian foldiers and Cof- facks ; a well looking church ; and a court-room ; and at the end of the town a great number of Balagans, belonging to the Kamtfchadales. 1 he inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and fix hundred. In the evening, the Major gave a handfome entertainment ; to which the principal people of the town, of both fcxes, were invited. Friday i4. The next morning we applied privately to the merchant Fcdofitfch, to purchafe fome tobacco for the failors, who had now been upward of a twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our other tranfactions of the fame kind, came immediately to the Major's know- ledge ; and we were foon after furprifed to find, in our houfe, four bags of tobacco, weighing upward of a hun- dred pounds each, which he begged might be prefented, in the name of himfelf, and the garrifon under his command, to our failors. At the fame time, they had fent us twenty loaves of line fugar, and as many pounds of tea, being arti- cles they und^rilood we were in great want of, which they begged to be indulged in prefenting to the officers- Along with thefc, Madame Behm had alio fent a prefent for Cap- tain Clerke, confifting of frefh butter, honey, figs, rice, and fomc other little things of the fame kind, attended with many VviQies, that, in his infirm ftate of health, they might be of fervice to him. It was in vain we tried io oppofe this profufion of bounty, which 1 was really anxious to reftrain, being THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 217 being convinced, that they were giving away, not a fhare, 1779- but almoft the whole ftock of the garrifon. The conftant ' ' anfwer the Major returned us, on thofe occafions, was, that we had fufFered a great deal, and that we rauft needs be in diftrefs. Indeed, the length of time we had been out, fince we touched at any known port, appeared to them fo very in- credible, that it required the teftimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumftances, to gain their belief. Amongft the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related to us this morning, and which, he faid, but for our arrival, he fhould have been totally at a lofs to ac- count for. It is well known, that the Tfchutfki are the only people, of the North of Afia, who have maintained their independ- ence, and refilled all the attempts that have been made by the Ruffians to reduce them. The laft expedition againft them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various fuccefs, In the retreat of the Ruffian forces, and the lofs of the commanding officer. Since that time, the Ruffians had removed their frontier fortrefs from the Anadyr to the Ingiga, a river that empties itfelf into the Northern extremity of the fea of Okotfk, and gives its name to a gulf, fuuated to the Weft of that of Penfhinfk. From this fort, Major Behm had received dii'patches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretik, containing intelligence, that a tribe, or party, of the Tfchutfki, had arrived at that place with proportions of friendfhip, and a voluntary offer of tribute ; that on inquiring into the caufe of this unexpected altera- tion in their fentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the laft fummer they had been vi- fited by two very large Ruffian boats ; that they had been Vol. III. F f treated 2i3 AVOYAGETO •779- treated by the people, who were in them, with the greatcft TV'! i v • ^^ kindnefs, and had entered into a league of friendfhip and amity with them; and that, relying on this friendly dif- pofuion, they were now come to the Ruffian fort, in order to fettle a treaty, on fuch terms as might be acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary hiftory had occafioned much fpeculation, both at Ingiginfk and Bolcheretfk ; and, had we not furnifhed them with a key to it, mud have re- mained perfectly unintelligible. We felt no fmall fatisfac- tion in having, though accidentally, fhewn the Ruffians, in this inilance, the only true way of collecting tribute, and extending their dominions ; and in the hopes that the good underftanding, which this event hath given rife to, may re- fcue a brave people from the future invafions of fuch power- ful neighbours. We dined, this day, with Captain Shmaleff, and in the afternoon, in order to vary our amufements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Ruffian and Kamtfchadale dancing. No defcription can convey an adequate idea of this rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Ruffian dance was much like thofe of our hornpipes, and was danced ei- ther fingle, or by two or four perfons at a time. Their fteps were fhort and quick, with the feet fcarce raifed from the ground; the arms were fixed clofe to the fides ; the body being all the while kept upright and immoveable, except- ing when the parties patted each other, at which time the hand was raifed with a quick and awkward motion. But if the Ruffian dance was at the fame time both unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtfchadale joined to the latter quality the moft whimfical idea that ever entered into any people's heads. It is intended to rcprcfent the awkward and clumfy i gedures THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 219 geftures of the bear, which thefe people have frequent op- J779- portunities of obferving in a great variety of fituations. It < /■— — * will fcarcely be expected that I fhould give a minute de- fcription of all the flrange poftures which were exhibited on thefe occafions ; and I mall therefore only mention, that the body was always bowed, and the knees bent, whilft the arms were ufed in imitating the tricks and attitudes of that animal. As our journey to Bolcheretfk had taken up more time than we expected, and we were told that our return might prove ftill more difficult and tedious, we were under the ne- ceffity of acquainting the commander, this evening, with our intention of fctting out the next day. It was not with- out the utmoft regret we thought of leaving our new ac- quaintance ; and were therefore moll agreeably furprifed, when the Major told us, that if we could flay one day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he faid, made up his difpatches, and refigned the command of Kamtfchatka to his fucceflbr Captain ShmalefF, and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotfk, which was to take place in a few days; but that he fhould feel great pleafure in putting off his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, that he might himfelf be a witnefs of every thing being done for us, that it was in their power to do. In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I was, next morning, the 15th, prefented, by Saturday 15. his little boy, with a mod magnificent Kamtfchadale drefs which fhall be defcribed in its proper place. It was of the kind worn by the principal Toions of the country, on occa- F f 2 fions 220 AV0YAGET0 •779- fions of great ceremony ; and, as I was afterward told, by Fedofitfch, could not have been purchafed for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the fame time I had a prefent from his daughter, of a handfome fable muff. We afterward dined with the Commander, who, in order to let us fee as much of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the cuftoms of the country, as our time would permit, invited the whole of the better fort of people in the village to his houfe this evening. All the women appeared very fplendidly dreflTed, after the Kamtfchadale fafhion. The wives of Captain Shmaleff, and the other officers of the gar- rifon, were prettily dreiled, half in the Siberian, and half in the European mode ; and Madame Behm, in order to make the dronger contrail, had unpacked part of her bag- gage, and put on a rich European drefs. I was much ftruck with the richnefs and variety of the filks which the women wore, and the Angularity of their habits. The whole was like fomc enchanted fcene in the midd of the wildeft and mod dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again confided of dancing and finging. The next morning being fixed for our departure, we re- tired early to our lodgings, where the firft things we faw were three travelling drelTes, made after the fafhion of the country, which the Major had provided for us, who came himfelf to our houfe foon after, to fee all our things packed up, and properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal prefents, and the kindnefs of Captain ShmalefT, and many other individuals, who all begged to throw in their mite, together with the ample dock of provifions he had lent us for our journey, we had amafled no inconfiderable load of baggage. s Early THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 221 Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our ,7"9- departure, we were invited to call on Madame Behm, in •— t. cur way to the boats, and take our leave of her. ImprefTed, u" ayI as our minds were, with fentiments of the warmed grati- tude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met with at Bolcheretfk, they were greatly heighten- ed, by the affecting fcene which prefented itfelf to us, on leaving our lodgings. All the foldiers and CofTacks, belong- ing to the garrifon, were drawn up on one hand, and the male inhabitants of the town, drcffed out in their beft clothes, on the other; and, as foon as we came out of the houfe, the whole body of the people joined in a melancholy long, which, the Major told us, it was ufual, in that coun- try, to fmg on taking leave of their friends. In this man- ner we marched down to the Commander's houfe, preceded by the drums and mufic of the garrifon, where we were re- ceived by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies, who were drefTed in long filk. cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of different colours, which made a moft magnificent appear- ance. After partaking of fome refreshment, that was pre- pared for us, we went down to the water-fide, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the fong with the reft of the inhabitants -, and as foon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm, and allured her of the grateful fenfe we mould ever retain of the hofpitality of Bolcheretfk, we found ourfelves too much affected, not to haflen into the boats with all the expedition we could. When wc put off, the whole com- pany gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat; and, as we were doubling a point, where for the laft time we faw our friendly entertainers, they took their fare- wel in another cheer. We 22: A VOYAGE TO 1779- We found the ftream, on our return, fo exceedingly rapid ^_ ' y — / that notwithstanding the CofTacks and Kamtfchadales ufed their utmoft exertions, we did not reach the firft village, Monday 17. Opatchin, till the evening of the 17th, which was at the rate of about twenty miles a day. We got to Natcheekin on the wednef. 19. 19th; and, on the 20th, we croffed the plain to Karatchin. We found the road much better than when we had paflcd it before, there having been a fmart froft on the night of Friday 21. the 19th. On the 21ft, we proceeded down the Awatfka River; and, before it was dark, got over the fhoals which lie at the entrance of the bay. During the whole courfe of our journey, we were much pleafed with the great good- will with which the Toions^ and their Kamtfchadales, afforded us their afliftance, at the different ojlrogs through which we patTed ; and I could not but obferve the pleafure that appear- ed in their countenances, on feeing the Major, and their ftrong expreffions of forrow, on hearing he was fo foon go- ing to leave them. We had difpatched a meffenger to Captain Clcrke, from Bolcheretfk, with an account of our reception, and of the Major's intention of returning with us ; at the fame time, apprizing him of the day he might probably expect to fee us. We were therefore very well pleafed to obferve, as we approached the harbour, all the boats of the two fhips com- ing toward us, the men clean, and the officers as well drefled as the fcarcity of our clothing would permit. The Major was much ftruck at the robufl. and healthy ap- pearance of the boats crews, and ftill more at feeing mod of them without any other covering than a fhirt and trowfers, although at the very moment it actually /uowed. As THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 223 As Major Behm had exprefTed his intentions of vifiting '779. the fhips before he landed, as foon as we arrived off the ^ — *—. j town, I defired to receive his commands ; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very bad ftate of Captain Clerke's health, it might be imprudent to diflurb tiim at fo late an hour (it being now part nine o'clock), he thought it, he faid, mod advifeable to remain that night on more. Accordingly, after attending him to the ferjeant's houfe, I took my leave, for the prefent, and went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at Bolche- retfk. It was with the utmoft concern I found, that in the fortnight we had been abfent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worfe, inflead of reaping that advan- tage we flattered ourfelves he might, from the rcpofe of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was fupplied. As foon as I had difpatched this bufinefs, I returned to the Satwda Major, and the next morning conducted him to the mips ; where, on his arrival, he was faluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of diflinction, that it wa> in our power to pay him. He was attended by the Commander of one of the Ruffian galliots, the matter of a floop that lay in the harbour, two merchants from Bolche- retfk, and the priefl: of the neighbouring village of Para- tounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the highefl refpect, and whom I mail hereafter have occafion to men- tion, on account of his great kindnefs to Captain Clerke. After vifiting the Captain, and taking a view of both the fliips, he returned to dinner on board the Refolution ; and, in the afternoon, the various curiofities we had collected in the courfe of our voyage, were (hewn him, and a complete afiortmerit f A VOYAGE TO ailbrtmcnt of every article prefented to him by Captain '".'•'". . Gierke. On this occafion I muft not pafs over an inftancc of great generofity and gratitude in the Tailors of both (hips ; who, when they were told of the handfomc prcfent of to- bacco that was made them by the Major, defired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be flopped, and their allowance of fpirits prefented, on their part, to the garrifon of Bolcheretfk, as they faid they had reafon to con- clude that brandy was fcarce in the country, and would be very acceptable to them, fince the foldiers on more had of- fered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew how much the iailors always felt, whenever their allowance of grog was flopped, which was generally done in warm wea- ther, that they might have it in a greater proportion in cold, and that this offer would deprive them of it during the in- clement feafon we had to expect in our next expedition to the North, could not but admire fo extraordinary a facrificc; and that they might not fufFer by it, Captain Gierke, and the reft of the officers fubftitutcd in the room of the very imall quantity the Major could be prevailed on to accept, the lame quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and fuch other little prefents as were in our power to bellow, were accepted in the moil obliging manner. The next morning the tobacco was di- vided between the crews of the twofliips, three pounds being allotted to every man that chewed or fmoked tobacco, and one pound to thofe that did not. I have before mentioned, that Major Behm had refigned the command of Kamtichaika, and intended to fet out in a fhort time for Petcrfburg ; and he now offered to charge himfelf with any difpatches we might trull to his care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected ; and accordingly Cap- tain THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 225 rain Gierke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty '779« offending by him fome papers relating to our voyage, to ^ — v-— j be delivered to our AmbaiTador at the Ruffian court. Our fixft intentions were to fend only a fmall journal of our pro- ceedings ; but afterward, Captain Gierke being perfuaded that the whole account of our difcoveries might fafely be trufled to a perfon who had given fuch finking proofs both of his public and private virtues; and confidering that we had a very hazardous part of the voyage flill to undertake, determined to fend, by him, the whole of the journal of our late Commander, with that part of his own, which com- pleted the period from Captain Cook's death, till our ar- rival at Kamtfchatka; together with a chart of all our difco- veries. Mr. Bayly, and myfelf, thought it alfo proper to fend, a general account of our proceedings to the board of longi- tude ; by which precautions, if any misfortune had after- ward befallen us, the Admiralty would have been in poffef- fion of a complete hiflory of the principal facls of our voy- age. It was alfo determined, that a fmaller pacquet mould be fent by an exprefs from Okotfk, which, the Major faid, if he was fortunate in his paflage to that port, would reach Peterfburg by December; and that he himfelf fliould be there- in February or March. During the three following days, the Major was enter- tained alternately in the two mips, in the beft manner we were able. On the 25th, he took his leave, and was faluted TEurfday^. with thirteen guns ; and the failors, at their own defire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr. Webber, wednef. 26. and myfelf, attended him a few miles up the Awatfka River, where we met the Ruffian prieft, his wife and chil- dren, who were waiting to take the lail farewel of their commander. Vol. III. G g Ir 226 AVOYAGETO •779- It was hard to fay, whether the good pried and his family, or ourfelves, were mod affected on taking our leave of Major Behm. Short as our acquaintance had been, his no- ble and difinteredcd conduct had infpired us with the high- er! refpect and efleem for him ; and we could not part with a perfon to whom we were under fuch obligations, and whom we had little prof peel of ever feeing again, without feeling the mod tender concern. The intrinfic value of the private prefents we received from him, exclufive of the ftores which might be carried to a public account, muft have amounted, according to the current price of articles in that country, to upward of two hundred pounds. But this generofity, extraordinary as it mud appear in itfelf, was exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a flep fur- ther, and confider him as fupporting a public character, and maintaining the honour of a great Sovereign, we fliall find a full higher fubject of admiration, in the jud and enlarged fentiments by which he was actuated. " The fervice in " which you are employed," he would often fay, " is for " the general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives '* you a right, not merely to the offices of humanity, but to " the privileges of citizens, in whatever country you may " be thrown. I am fine I am acting agreeably to the wiflies 11 of my Midrefs, in affording you all the relief in our " power ; and I cannot forget cither her character, or my " own honour, fo much, as to barter for the performance •* of a duty." At other times, lie would tell us, that he was particularly deGrous of fctring a good example to the Kamifchadalcs, who, he fa id, were but jufl emerging from a llate THE PACIFIC OCEAN, a ftate of barbarifm ; that they looked up to the Ruffians '77T. May. as their patterns in every thing ; and that he had hopes they • *— might, in future, look upon it as a duty incumbent upon them to afllft Grangers to the utmoft of their power, and be- lieve, that fuch was the univerfal practice of civilized na- tions. To all this mud be added, that, after having re- lieved, to the utmoft of his abilities, all ourprefent diftrefles, he mewed himfelf not much lefs mindful of our future wants ; and, as he fuppofed it more than probable we mould not difcover the paffage we were in fearch of, and therefore mould return to Kamtfchatka in the fall of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a lift of what cordage and flour we mould want, and promifed they mould be fent from Okotfk, and wait our arrival. For the fame purpofc, he gave Captain Clerke a paper, enjoining all the fubjecls of the Emprefs, whom we might happen to meet, to give us every afliftance in their power* 227 Gg 2 CHAP. 2-8 A V O Y A C E T O CHAP. III. ■Continuation of Tranfa&ions in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. — Abundance of Fifh. — Death of a Sea- man belonging to the Refolution. — The Ruffian Hofpital put under the Care of the Ship's Surgeons. — Supply of Flour a fid Cattle. — Celebration of the King's Eirth-cliv. — Difficulties in Jailing cut of the Bay. — Eruption of a Volcano. — Steer to the Northward. — CheepoonfkoiNofs. — Errors of the Ruffian Charts. — Kamtfchatflioi Nofs. — Olutorflioi Nofs. — Tjchukotjkoi Nofs. — Ifand of St. Laurence. — View, from the fame Point, of the Coajls of Afia and America, and the Iflands of St. Diomede. — ■ Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. — Obflru&ed by impenetrable Ice — Sea borfes and white Bears killed. — Captain Gierke s Deter?ni?iationt and future Defgns. 1779. T TAVING concluded the laft chapter with an account of ^_ a>_'_, XTJl our return from Bolcheretfk, accompanied by Major Eehm, the Commander of Kamtfchatka, and of his departure ; I mall proceed to relate the tranfactions that patted in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul during our abfencc. On Friday 7 the 7th of May, foon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove acrofs the cut-water of the Refolution, and brought home the fmall bower anchor. This obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 229 carpenters, who were employed in flopping the leak, were '779- obliged to take off a great part of the fheathing from the v. — ,- _j bows, and found many of the trunnels fo very lcofe and rotten, as to be eafily drawn out with the fingers. On the nth, they had heavy gales from the North Eafl, Tuefday u. which obliged both the fhips to ftrike yards and topmafb ; but in the afternoon the weather being more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, they warped clofe to the fhore for the greater convenience of watering and wooding, and again moored as before ; the town bearing North half Weft, half a mile diftant, and the mouth of the bay, fliut in by the Southernmoft point of Rakowina harbour, South. The next day a party was fent on fhore to cut wood, but Wednef. 12. made little progrefs on account of the fnow, which flill co- vered the ground. A convenient fpot was cleared away abreaft of the fhips, where there was a fine run of water ; and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty cafks were landed, and the fail- makers fent on fhore. On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were Saturday 15. fent to haul the feine, and caught an abundant fupply of fine flat fifh for both the fhips companies. Indeed, from this time, during the whole of our ftay in the harbour, we were abfolutely overpowered with the quantities of fifh which came in from every quarter. The Toions, both of this town, and of Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had re- ceived orders from Major Behm to employ all the Kamr- fchadales in our fervice ; fo that we frequently could not take into the fhips the prefents that were fent us. They confided, in general, of flat fifh, cod, trout, and herring. Thefe laft, which were in their full perfection, and of a delicious A VOYAGE TO >7"9- delicious flavour, were exceedingly abundant in this bay. Ma ^_ ,_ , The Difcovery's people furrounded, at one time, fo great a quantify in their feine, that they were obliged to throw a vuft number out, left the net mould be broken to pieces ; and the cargo they landed was afterward fo plentiful, that, befides a fufficient ftore for immediate ufe, they filled as many calks as they could fpare for falting ; and, after fend- ing to the Refolution a fufficient quantity for the fame purpofe, they left feveral bufhels behind on the beach. The fnow now began to difappear very rapidly, and abun- dance of wild garlic, celery, and nettle tops were gathered for the ufe of the crews ; which being boiled with wheat and portable foup, made them a wholcfome and comfort- able breakfafl ; and with this they were fupplied every morn- ing. The birch-trees were alfo tapped, and the fweet juice, which they yielded in great quantities, was conftantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy. Sunday 16. The next day, a fmall bullock, which had been procured for the fhips companies by the ferjeant, was killed ; and weighed two hundred and feventy-tvvo pounds. It was fcrved out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner, being the firft piece of frefh beef they had tailed fince our de- parture from the Cape of Good Hope in December 1776, a period of near two years and a half. This evening died John Macintofh, the carpenter's mate, after having laboured under a dyfentery ever fince our de- parture from the Sandwich Iflands : he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his mefs-mates. He was the fourth pcrfon we loft by ficknefs during the voyage ; but the firft who could be faid, from his age, and the conftitutional habits of his body, to have had, on our 1 fetting THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 031 letting out, an equal chance with the red of his comrades: I779- 0 * May, Watman, we fuppofed to be about fixty years of age ; and • « ' Roberts, and Mr. Anderfon, from the decay, which had evidently commenced before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any circumftances, have lived a greater length of time than they did. I have already mentioned, that Captain Clcrke's health continued daily to decline, notwithflanding the falutary change of diet, which the country of Kamtfchatka afforded him. The prieft of Paratounca, as foon as he heard of the infirm ftate he was in, fupplied him every day with bread, milk, frefli butter, and fowls, though his houfe was fixteen miles from the harbour where we lay. On our firfl arrival, we found the Ruffian hofpital, which is near the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the foldiers were, more or lefs, affected by the fcurvy, and a great many in the lafl flage of that dis- order. The reft of the Ruffian inhabitants were alfo in the fame condition ; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the ferjeant, by making too free with the fpirits we gave him, had brought on himfelf, in the courfe of a few days, fome of the mod alarming fymptoms of that malady. In this lamentable ftate, Captain Clerke put them all under the care of our furgeons, and ordered a fupply of four krout, and malt, for wort, to be furnifhed for their ufe. It was aftonifhing to obferve the alteration in the figures of al- moft every perfon we met on our return from Bolcheretfk ; and I was informed, by our furgeons, that they attributed their fpeedy recovery principally to the effects of the fwect wort. On 232 A VOYAGE TO '779- On the i ft of Tune we got on board two hundred and fifty June. 11 < — -v > poods, or nine thoufand pound weight of rye flour, with which ay ' we were fupplied from the flores of St. Peter and St. Paul's ; and the Difcovery had a proportional quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which they had not been indulged in fince our leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The fame day, our watering was completed, having got on board fixty-five tons. Friday 4. On the -}th, we had frefh breezes, and hard rain, which difappointcd us in our defign of d re fling the fliips, and obliged us to content ourfelves with firing twenty-one guns, in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other refpects- in the bed manner we were able. Port, who was left with, us on account of his fkill in languages, behaved himfelf with fo much niodefty and difcretion, that, as foon as his matter was gone, he was no longer Jean Port, but Monfieur Port, the interpreter; and partook, as well as the ferjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the enter- tainment of the day. Our worthy friend, the priefl of Para- tounca, having got intelligence of its being our king's birth day, gave alfo a fumptuous feaft; at which fome of our gentlemen were prefent, who feemed highly delighted with their entertainment, which confided of abundance of good eating and drinking, together with dancing. Sunday 6. On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were fent us by the Commander's orders from the Verchnei ojlrog, which isfitu- ated on the river Kamtfchatka, at the diftance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct line. 1 hey were of a moderate fizc ; and, notwithilunding the KamtTchadalcs had been feventeen days in driving them down to the har- bour, arrived in good condition. The four following days 1 were THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 233 "were employed in making ready for fea ; and, on the nth, '77J>. . . 1 June. at two in the morning, we began to unmoor ; but, before <-; — — — # we had got one anchor up, it blew fo flrong a gale from the North Eaft, that we kept faft, and moored again ; conjectur- ing, from the pofition of the entrance of the bay, that the current of wind would fet up the channel. Accordingly, the pinnace being fent out to examine the pafTage, returned with an account, that the wind blew flrong from the South Eaft, with a great fwell, fetting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to fea very hazardous. Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with our journals, which was to go by the Major, and the pacquet that was to be fent exprefs. On the 1 2th, the weather being moderate, we began to unmoor Saturdays, again ; but, after breaking the mefTenger, and reeving a running purchafe with a fix inch hawfer, which alfo broke three times, we were obliged, at laft, to heave a flrain at low water, and wait for the flowing of the tide to raife the anchor. This project fucceeded ; but not without damaging the cable in the wake of the hawfe. At three we weighed the bell bower, and fet fail j and, at eight, having little wind, and the tide making againft us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of Rakowina harbour ; the ojlrog bearing North by Eaft half Eaft, two miles and a half diftant ; the needle rocks on the Eaft fide of the pafTage South South Eaft half Eaft ; and the high rock, on the Weft fide of the pafTage, South. On the 1 3th, at four in the morning, we got under way Suaday i3, with the ebb tide ; and, there being a dead calm, the boats were fent ahead to tow the fhips. At ten, the wind fpringing up from the South Eaft by South, and the tide VoL- m- H h having -34 A VOYAGE TO 1779- having turned, wc were again obliged to drop anchor in », JL , feven fathoms ; the Three Needle Rocks bearing South halt Eaft; and the o/lrog North half Eaft, at the diftance of one mile from the neareft land. After dinner, I went, with Captain Gore, on fhore on the Eaft fide of the paffage, where we faw, in two different places, the remains of extenfive villages ; and, on the fide of the hill, an old ruined parapet, with four or five embrafures. It commanded the paffage up the mouth of the bay; and, in Beering's time, as he him- felf mentions, had guns mounted on it. Near this place, were the ruins of fome caverns under ground, which we fuppofed to have been magazines. At fix in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to windward ; but, at eight, a thick fog ariling, we were obliged to bring to, as our foundings could not afford us a fufEcient direction for fleering between feveral funk rocks, which lie on each fide of the paffage wc had to make. In Monday 14. the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as foon as the tide began to ebb; and, having little wind, fent the boats ahead to tow ; but, at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide fet in fo ftrong from the fea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the high rock bearing Weft one quarter South, diftant three qu 5 of a mile. Wc remained faf, for the reft of the day; the wind blowing frefh into. the mouth of the bay; and, to- ward evening, the weather had a very unufual appcarar.ee, being exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unfcttled fhift- ine wind, o TucfJayis- Before day-light, on the 15th, wc were furptifed with a rumbling noile, refembling ;t hollow thunder; and, when the day broke, wc found the < and fides of the 7 fhips THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 235 mips covered with a fine duft like emery, near an inch V79* r 1 ' June. thick. The air, at the fame time, continued loaded and ' f — ' darkened with this fubftance ; and, toward the 'volcano mountain, fituated to the North of the harbour, it was fo thick and black, that we could not diftinguifh. the body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and, during the afternoon, the explofions became Louder, and were followed by fhowers of cinders, which were, in general, about the fize of peas ; though many wrere picked up from the deck larger than a hazel nut. Along with the cinders fell feveral fmall flones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darknefs of the atmofphere, and the fulphureous fmell of the air, produced altogether a moft awful and terri- fying effect. We were, at this time, about eight leagues from the foot of the mountain. On the i6ch, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and Wednef. 16. flood out of the bay; but the ebb tide fetting acrofs the paf- lage upon the Eaftern fhore, and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks, which lie on that fide of the entrance, and obliged to hoift out the boats, in order to tow the (hips clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from the land, and had foundings with forty- three fathoms of line, over a bottom of fmall ftones, of the fame kind with thofe which fell on our decks, after the eruption of the volcano ; but whether they had been left there by the laft, or by fome former eruptions, we were not able to determine. The afpect of the country was now very different from what it had been on our firft arrival. The fnow, excepting what remained on the tops of fome very high mountains, had H h 2 difappeared ; 236 A VOYAGE TO 1779- difappcared ; and the fides of the hills, which, in many i_ ^L — i parts, were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful ver- dure. As it was Captain Clerke's intention to keep as much in fight of the coall of Kamtfchatka as the weather would per- mit, in order to determine its pofition, we continued fleering to the North North Eaft, with light and variable winds, till the 1 8th. The volcano was flill fcen throwing up immenfe volumes of fmoke ; and we had no foundings with one hun- dred and fifty fathoms, at the diftance of four leagues from the fliore. Frtday 18. On the iSth, the wind frefhening from the South, the weather became fo thick and hazy, as to make it impru- dent to attempt any longer to keep in fight of the land. But that we might be ready to refume our furvey, whenever the fogs mould difperfe, we ran on in the direction of the coaft, as laid down in the Ruffian charts, and fired fignal guns for the Difcovery to fleer the fame courfe. At eleven o'clock, jufl before we loft fight of the land, Cheeponfkoi Nofs, fo called by the Ruffians (a defcription of which, as well as the coafl between it and Awatfka Bay, will be given hereafter), bore North North Eafl, diftant feven or eight leagues. Sunday 20. On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we flood in toward the land ; and in an hour's time faw it ahead, extending from North Weft to North North Eaft, diftant about five leagues. The North part we took to be Kronotfkoi Nofs ; its pofition in the Ruffian charts agreeing nearly with our reckoning as to its latitude, which was 540 42'; but, in longitude, we differed from them con- fiderably, they placing it i° 48' Eaft of Awatfka ; whereas, our THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 337 our reckoning, corrected by the time-keepers and lunar ob- l?79- r June. fervations, makes it 3' 34' Eaft ward of that place, or 1620 17' ' *•— -/ Eaft from Greenwich. The land about this cape is very high, and the inland mountains were mil covered with fnow. The fhore breaks off in fteep cliffs, and the coaft is without any appearance of inlets or bays. We had not been long gratified with this fight of the land, when the wind frefhen- ed from the South Weft, and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to (land off to the North Eaft by Eaft. The wea- ther clearing up again at noon, we fleered toward the land, expecting to fall in with Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, and had fight of it at day-break of the 21ft. Monday 21^ The Southerly wind was foon after fucceeded by a light breeze blowing off the land, which prevented our approach- ing the coaft fufliciently near to defcribe its afpect, or afcer- tain, with accuracy, its direction. At noon our latitude, by obfervation, was 55* 52', and longitude (deduced from a comparifon of many lunar obfervations, taken near this time, with the time-keepers), 1630 50'; the extremities of the land bearing North Weft by Weft, three quarters Weft, and North by Weft three quarters Weft, the neareft part about eight leagues diftant. At nine o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the coaft, we found it formed a projecting peninfula, extending about twelve leagues in a direction nearly North and South. It is level, and of a moderate height, the Southern extremity terminating in a low floping point > that to the North form- ing a fteep bluff head ; and between them, about four leagues to the Southward of the Northern Cape, there is a confiderable break in the land. On each fide of this break the land is quite low; beyond the opening rifes a remark- 4 able 238 AVOYAGETO '779- able fuddle-like hill ; and a chain of high mountains, co- Jtjnc. \ — -v — ' vered with mow, ranges along the Lack of the whole pen- infula. As the coaft runs in an even direction, we were at a great lofs where to place Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, which, ac- cording to Muller, forms a projecting point about the middle of the peninfula, and which certainly does not exift; but I have fince found, that, in the general map publifhed by the academy of Feterfburg in 1776, that name is given to the Southern cape. This was found, by feveral accurate obfervations, to be in latitude 56° 3', longitude 1630 20' ; the difference in longitude, from the Ruffian charts, being the fame as at Kronotfkoi Nofs. The variation of the compafs at this time was io° Eaft. To the Southward of this peninfula the great river Kamtfchatka falls into the fea. As the feafon was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate furvey of the coaft of Kamtfchatka, it was Cap- tain Clerke's plan, in our run to Becring's Straits, to de- termine principally the pofitions of the projecting points of the coaft. We, therefore, directed our couife acrofs an ex- tenfive bay, laid down between Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs and Olutorlkoi Nofs, intending to make the latter ; which, ac- cording to the Ruffian geographers, terminates the penin- fula called Kamtfchatka, and becomes the Southern boun- dary of the Koriaki country. Tuefday 22. On the 2 id, we paffed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid ftench, perceivable at upward of a league's diftance ; it was covered with a great number of fca-birds, that were feafting on it. Z4. On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the com- pafs the three preceding days, fixed at South Weft, and brought THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 239 brought clear weather, with which we continued our courfe ZJ79- ° June. to the North Eaft by North, acrofs the bay, without any land < . 1 in fight. This d'ay we faw a great number of gulls, and were wit- nefTes to the difgufting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the name of the parafite, and which, if the reader is not already acquainted with it, he will find in the note below . On the 25th, atone o'clock in the afternoon, being in lati- F.iday 25. tude $y 12', longitude 16S" 35', the wind frefhening from the fame quarter, a thick, fog fucceeded ; and this unfortu- nately jufl at the time we expected to fee Olutorfkoi Nofs, which, if Muller places it right in latitude 590 30', and in longitude 1670 36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us; at which diflance, land of a moderate height might eafily have been fecn. But if the fame error in lon- gitude prevails here, which we have hitherto invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog came on ; and as we faw no appearance of land at that time, it mud cither have been very low, or there mud be fome miftake of latitude in Muller's account. We tried foundings, but had no ground with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. The weather ftill thickening, and preventing a nearer ap- proach to the land, at five we (leered Ealt by North, which is fomewhat more Eaflerly than the Ruffian charts lay down the trending of the coafl from Olutorfkoi Nofs. The next Saturday 26; day, we had a frefh gale from the South Weft, which laded * This bird, which is fomewhat larger than the common gull, purfues the latter kind whenever it meets them ; the gull, after flying for fome time, with loud fcreams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its dung, which its purfuer immediately darts at, and catches before it falls into the fca. till 2-p A VOYAGE TO '"7> till the 27th at noon, when the fogs clearing away, we flood « ""!' _> to the Northward, in order to make the land. The latitude at noon, by obfervation, was $1 fmall keg with the deep-fea lead, in feventy-five fathoms, found the fliip made a courfe North by Eaft, half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the efFecr, of a long Southerly fvvell, and not to that of any current. The wind freshen- ing from the South Eaft toward evening, we fhaped our courfe to the North Eaft by Eaft, for the point called in Beer- ing's chart, Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, which we had obferved on the 4th of September laft year, at the fame time that we faw, to the South Eaft, the ifland of Saint Laurence. This Cape, and Saint Thadeus's Nofs, form the North Eaft and South Weft extremities of the large and deep Gulph of Anadir, into the bottom of which the river of that name empties itfelf, dividing, as it paflcs, the country of the Koriacs from that of the Tfchutfki. Saturday 3. On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 6f 33', and the longitude 1860 45'; half an hour after which we got fight of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, bearing North half Weft, thirteen or fourteen leagues diftant, and at five in the afternoon faw the ifland of Saint Laurence, bearing Eaft three-quarters North ; and another ifland a little to the Haft- ward of it, which we fuppofed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderibn's Ifland, about fix leagues Eaft South Eaft of the former. As we had no certain accounts of this ifland, Captain Clerke was defirous of a nearer profpeet, and im- mediately hauled the wind toward it ; but, unfortunate!}-, we were nor able to weather the ifland of Saint Laurence, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 243 and were therefore under the neceffity of bearing up again, y7,?.' and pairing them all to the leeward. 1 J- — j We had a better opportunity of fettling the longitude of the ifland Saint Laurence, when we laft faw it, than now- But feeing it at that time but once, and to the Southward, we could only determine its latitude fo far as we could judge of diftances ; whereas now the noon obfervations en- abled us to afcertain it correctly, which is 63° 47'. Its lon- gitude was found to be 1880 15', as before. This illand, if its boundaries were at this time within our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The North part may be feen at the diftance of ten or twelve leagues ; but as it falls in low land to the South Eaft, the extent of which we could not fee, fome of us conjectured, that it might probably be joined to the land to the Eaftward of it ; this, however, the hazinefs of the weather prevented our afcertaining. Thefe iflands, as well as the land about the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, were covered with mow, and prefented us with a mod dreary picture. At midnight, Saint Laurence bore South South Eaft, five or fix miles diftant ; and our depth of water was eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of fea fowl, and faw feveral fmall crcflcd hawks. The weather ftill continuing to thicken, we loft all fight of land till the 5th, when it appeared both to the North Ealt Monday 5, and North Weft. Our latitude, by account, was, at this time, 650 24', longitude 1890 14'. As the iflands of Saint Diomede, which lie between the two continents in Beer- ing's ftrait, were determined by us laft year to be in latitude 63° 48', we could not reconcile the land to the North Eaft, with the fituation of thofe illand?. We therefore flood to- ward the land till three in the afternoon, when we were 1 i s within 244 AVOYAGETO '779- within four miles of it, and finding it to be two iflands, July. ° ' ^—J. — j were pretty well fatisfied of their being the fame; but the weather (till continuing hazy, to make fure of our fituation, we flood over to the coaft of Afia, till feven in the evening; at which time we were within two or three leagues of the Eaft Cape of that continent. This Cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from North to South, forming a peninfula, and' connected with the continent by a narrow neck of low land. Its fhore is bold, and off its North part are three high, de- tached, fpiral rocks. At this time it was covered with fnow, and the beach furrounded with ice. We were now con- vinced, that we had been under the influence of a ftrong. current, fetting to the North, that had caufed an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In paffing this (trait the lad year, we had experienced the fame effect. Being at length fure of our pofition, we held on to the North by Eaft. At ten at night, the weather becoming clear> we had an opportunity of feeing, at the fame moment, the remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the coaft of America, and the Eaft Cape of Afia, with the two connecting iflands of Saint Diomede between them. Tuefday6. At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 67" North, and the longitude 191" 6' Eaft. Having already pall- ed a confiderable number of large mafTes of ice, and ob- ferved, that it ft ill adhered in feveral places to.the fhore on the continent of Afia, we were not much furprized to fall in, at three in the afternoon, with an extenfivc body of it, ftretching away to the Weft ward. This fight gave great dif- couragement to our hopes of advancing much farther Northward this year, than we had done the preceding. Having THE PACIFIC OCEAN. H5 Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoifted out the '779- boats in purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in great <-— ' numbers on the detached pieces of ice ; but they foon re- turned without fuccefs ; thefe animals being exceedingly ihy, and before they could come within gun-fhot, always making their retreat into the water* At feven in the evening, we hoifted in the boats, and the wind frefhening from the Southward, we flood on to the North Eaft, with a view of exploring the continent of Ame- rica, between the latitudes of 68° and 6g°, which, owing to the foggy weather laft year, we had not been able to exa- mine. In this attempt we were again in part difappointed. For, on the 7th, at fix in the morning, we were flopped by Wednef. 7. a large field of ice, ftretching from North Weft to South Eaft ; but foon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had fight of the coaft of America, at about ten leagues diftance, extending from North Eaft by Eaft to Eaft, and lying, by ob- fervation, between the 68° and 68* 20' of latitude. As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to fee over a great extent of it. The whole prcfentcd a folid and compact furface, not in the fmalleft degree thawed; and appeared to us likewife to adhere to the land. The weather foon after changing to hazy, we faw no more of the land; and there not remaining a poflibility of approaching nearer to it, we flood to the North North Weft, keeping the ice clofe on board, and get round its Weftern extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly North. Our latitude at this time was, by account, 68° 22', and lon- gitude 192° 34'. We continued our courfe to the North North Eaft, along the edge of the ice, during the remain- ing part of the day, paffing through many loofe pieces that n had 246 AVOYAGETO yj had been broken off from the main body, and againft which ' r — ' notwithstanding all our caution, the fhips were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we patted ibme drift wood •, and at midnight the wind fhifted to the North Weft; the thermometer fell from 380 to 31% and we had continued mowers of fnow and fleet. Thurfda.vs. On the 8th, at five in the morning, the wind coming (till more to the Northward, wc could no longer keep on the fame tack, on account of the ice, but were obliged to Hand to the Wclhvard. At this time our foundings had decreafed to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our obfervations on the depth of water laft year, we con- cluded, that we were not at a greater diftance from the American fhorc than fix or feven leagues ; but our view was confined within a much fhorter compafs, by a violent fall of fnow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 6 On the 1 2th, we had light winds, with thick hazy wea- Monday 12. ther ; and, on trying the current, we found it fet to the North Weft, at the rate of half a knot an hour. We conti- nued to fleer Northward, with a moderate Southerly breeze, and fair weather, till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when Tuefday 13. we again found ourfelves clofe in with a folid field of ice, to which we could fee no limits from the maft head. This, at once, dafhed all our hopes of penetrating farther; which had been confiderably raifed, by having now advanced near ten leagues through a fpace, which, on the 9th, we had found occupied by impenetrable ice. Our latitude, at this time, was 690 37' ; our pofition nearly in the mid channel between the two continents ; and the field of ice extending from Eaft North Eaft, to Weft South Weft. As there did not remain the fmalleft profpect of getting farther North in the part of the fea where we now were, Captain Clerke refolved to make one more, and final at- tempt on the American coaft, for Baffin's Bay, fince we had been able to advance the fartheft on this fide laft year. Ac- cordingly, we kept working, the remaining part of the day, to the windward, with a frefh Eafterly breeze. We faw fe- veral fulmars and arctic gulls, and pafTed two trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark or branches, but with the roots remain- ing attached. On the 14th, we flood on to the Eaft ward, with thick and Wedncf. 14. foggy weather, our courfe being nearly parallel to that we fleered the 8th and 9th, but fix leagues more to the North- Vol. III. K k ward. 250 A VOYAGE TO 1779- ward. On the 1 <;th, the wind frefhened from the Weftward, Julv. « • and having, in a great meafure, difperfed the fog, we im- u'v ,s* mediately flood to the Northward, that we might take a nearer view of the ice ; and in an hour were clofe in with it, extending from North North Weft, to North Eaft. We found it. to be compact and folid ; the outer parts were ragged, and of different heights ; the interiour furface was even ; and, we judged, from eight to ten feet above the level of the fea. The weather becoming moderate for the remaining part of the day, we directed our courfe according to the trending of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays. Friday 16. In the morning of the 1 6th, the wind frefhened, and was attended with thick and frequent mowers of fnow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a flrong gale from the Weft South Weft, and brought us under double-reefed top-fails ; when, the weather clearing a little, we found ourfelves embayed; the ice having taken a fudden turn to the South Eaft, and in one compact body furrounding us on all fides, except on the South quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the Southward, being at this time in latitude 700 8' North, and in twenty-fix fathoms water 3 and, as we fuppofed, about twenty-five leagues from the coafl of America. The gale increafing, at four in the afternoon we clofe reefed the fore and main-top-fails, furled the mizen top-fail, and got the top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had decrcafed to twenty-two fathoms, which we confidercd as a proof of our near approach to the Ame- rican coaft, we tacked and flood to the North. We had blowing weather, accompanied with fnow, through the ,7. night; but next morning, it became clear and moderate; and, at eight in the forenoon, we got the top-gallant yards acrofs, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 25 i acrofs, and made fail with the wind ftill at Weft South Weft. W9- At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 69° 55', longi- v_ — J^_j tude 1940 30'. Toward evening, the wind flackened, and at midnight it was a calm. On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze fprung Sunday is. up from the Eaft North Eaft, with which we continued our courfe to the North, in order to regain the ice as foon as pof- fible. We paffed fome fmall logs of drift-wood, and faw abundance of fea-parrots, and the fmall ice-birds, and like- wife a number of whales. At noon, the latitude, by ob- fervation, was 700 26', and longitude 194° 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms ; the ice ftretched from North to Eaft North Eaft, and was diftant about three miles. At one in the afternoon, finding that we were clofe in with a firm united field of it, extending from Weft North Weft to Eaft, we tacked, and, the wind coming round to the We ft ward, flood on to the Eaftward, along its edge, till eleven at night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water fhoaling to nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the South. The variation obferved this day was 31° 20' Eaft. Ic is remarkable, that though we faw no fea-horfes on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on the detached fragments, than we had ever obferved before. About nine in the evening, a white bear was fcen fwimming clofe by the Difcovery ; it after- ward made to the ice, on which were alfo two others. On the 19th, at one in the morning, the weather clearing Monday 19. up, we again fleered to the North Eaft, till two, when we were a fecond time fo completely embayed, that there was no opening left, but to the South ; to which quarter we ac- cordingly directed our courfe, returning through a re mark- It k 2 ably 252 AVOYAGETO «779« ably fmooth water, and with very favourable weather, by the fame way we had come in. We were never able to pe- netrate farther North than at this time, when our latitude was 700 33' ; and this was five leagues fhort of the point to which we advanced lad feafon. We held on to the South South Weft, with light winds from the North Weft, by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and ftretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by obfervation at noon, was 70° 11', our longitude 1960 15', and the depth of water fixteen fathoms. From this circumftance, we judged that the Icy Cape was now only at feven or eight leagues diftance; but, though the weather was in general clear, it was at the fame time hazy in the ho- rizon ; fo that we could not expect to fee it. In the afternoon, we faw two white bears in the water, to which we immediately gave chace in the jolly boat, and had the good fortune to kill them both. The larger, which proba- bly was the dam of the younger, being mot fuft, the other would not quit it, though it might eafily have efcaped on the ice, whiltl the men were reloading, but remained fwimming about, till, after being fired upon feveral times, it was ihot dead. The dimcnfions of the larger were as follow: From the fnout to the end of the tail From the fnout to the mouider-bone Height of the moulder Circumference near the fore-legs Breadth of the fore- paw Weight of the four quarters Weight of the four quarters of the fmalleft 256 6 On Feet. Inches. 7 0 2 0 4 .1 4 IO - JO lb. I-3& THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 253 On comparing: the dimenfions of this with Lord Mul- \7]9- grave's white bear, they were found almoft exactly the fame, *- — *■ — * except in the circumference, where our's fell exceedingly fhort. Thefe animals afforded us a few excellent meals of frefh meat. The flefli had indeed a ftrong fifhy tafte, but was, in every refpect, infinitely fuperior to that of the fea- horfe ; which, nevcrthelefs, our people were again per- fuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their faltcd provifions. At fix in the morning of the aoth, a thick fog coming on, Tuefdayzo. we loft light of the ice for two hours ; but the weather clearing, we faw the main body again to the South South Eaft, when we hauled our wind, which was Eafterly, to- ward it, in the expectation of making the American coaft to the South Eafl, and which we effected at half paft ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 6y° 33', and longitude 1 94° 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land extended from South by Eaft, to South South Weft half Weft, diftant eight or ten leagues, being the fame we had feen laft year ; but it was now much more covered with fnow than at that time ; and, to all appearance, the ice ad- hered to the fhore. We continued, in the afternoon, fail- ing through a fea of loofe ice, and Handing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was Eaft South Eaft, would ad- mit. At eight, the wind leflening, there came on a thick fog; and, on perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found tofet to the Eaft North Eaft, at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined to fleer, during the night, before the wind, in order to item it, and to oppofe the large fragments of loofe ice, that were fitting 254 A VOYAGE TO 1779- Setting us on toward the land. The depth of the water, at July. ° * « , > midnight, was twenty fathoms. Wedncf. 21. At eight in the morning of the 21ft, the wind freshening, and the fog clearing away, we faw the American coaft to the South Eaft, at the diftance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it ; but were flopped again by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the Weft ward, along the edge of it. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 690 34', and longi- tude 1 930, and the depth of water twenty- four fathoms. Thus, a connected, folid field of ice, rendering every ef- fort we could make to a nearer approach to the land fruit- lcfs, and joining, as we judged, to it, we took a lafl farewel of a North Eaft pafTage to Old England. I fhall beg leave to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reafons of this his final determination, as wrellas of his future plans; and this the rather, as it is the laft transaction his health permitted him to write down. " It is now impoflible to proceed the lead farther to the or North IV eft Pajfage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean. — Compa?'ative View of the Progrefs made in the Tears 1778 and 1779. — Remarks on the Sea, and Sea- coaft s, North of Beer- ings Straits. — Hiftory of the Voyage refumed. — Pafs the Ifland of St. Laurence. — The If and of Mednoi. — Death of Captain Clerke. — Short Account of his Services. c Aptain Clerke having determined, for the reafons l779- affigned at the conclufion of the laft Chapter, to give up all farther attempts on the coaft of America, and to make his laft efforts, in fearch of a paffage on the coaft of the op- 1 pofite 256 A VOYAGE TO »779- pofite continent, we continued, during the afternoon of the 21 ft • zi — . of July, to fleer to the Weft North Weft, through much loofe ice. At ten at night, difcovering the main body of it through the fog, right ahead, and almoft clofe to us, and being unwil- ling to take a Southerly courfe, (o long as we could poffibly avoid it, we hauled our wind, which was Eafterly, and flood to the Northward ; but, in an hour after, the weather clear- ing up, and finding ourfelves furrounded by a compact field of ice, on every fide, except to the South South Weft, we tacked, and flood on in that direction^ in order to get clear of it. Thurfday2z. At noon of the 22t], our latitude, by obfervation, was 6^30', and longitude iS7°3o'. In the afternoon, we again came up with the ice, which extended to the North Weft and South Weft, and obliged us to continue our courfe to the Souihwaid, in order to weather it. It may be remarked, that fince the Sth of this month, we had twice traverfed this fca, in lines nearly parallel with the run we had juft now made; that in the firft of thole tra- verfes, wc were not able to penetrate fo far North, by eight or ten leagues, as in the fecond ; and that in the laft we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to the Southward of its pofition in the preceding run. As this proves that the large, compact fields of ice, which we law were moveable, or diminifhing ; at the fame time, it does not leave any well-founded expecta- tion of advancing much farther in the mod favourable ieafons. At feven in the evening, the weather being hazy, and no ice in fight, we bore away to the Weftward; but, at half pafl eight, the fog difperfing, we found ourfelves in the midft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 257 midfl of loofe ice, and clofe in with the main body; we x~79- therefore flood upon a wind, which was flill Eaflerly, and * *—-> kept beating to windward during the night, in hopes of weathering the loofe pieces, which the freflmefs of the wind kept driving down upon us in fuch quantities, that we were in manifefl danger of being blocked up by them. In the morning of the 23d, the clear water, in which we Frid>y 2> continued to fland to and fro, did not exceed a mile and a half, and was every inflant lefTening. At length, after ufing our utmoft endeavours to clear the loofe ice, we were driven to the neceflity of forcing a pafTage to the Southward, which, at half pad feven, we accomplished, but not with- out fubjeeting the fhip to fome very fevere fhocks. The Difcovery was lefs fuccefsful. For, at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, fhe became fo entangled by feveral large pieces, that her way was flopped, and immediately dropping bodily to leeward, fhe fell, broadfidc foremofl, on the edge of a confiderable body of ice ; and having, at the fame time, an open fea to windward, the furf caufed her to flrikc violently upon it. This mafs at length either fo far broke, or moved, as to fet them at liberty to make another trial to efcape ; but, unfortunately, before the fhip gathered way enough to be under command, fhe again fell to lee- ward on another fragment ; and the fwell making it unfafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of getting clear, they pufhed into a fmall opening, furled their fails, and made fafl with ice-hooks. In this dangerous fituation we faw them at noon, about three miles from us, bearing North Weil, a frefli gale from the South Eafl driving more ice to the North Weft, and in- creafing the body that lay between us. Our latitude, by Vol. III. L 1 account. 253 A VOYAGE TO >779- account, was 6q° 8', the longitude 187% and the depth of July. . * v,.,v — ; water twenty-eight fathoms. To add to the gloomy appre- henfions which began to force themfelves on us, at half pail four in the afternoon, the weather becoming thick and hazy, we loft fight of the Difcovery ; but, that we might be in a fituation to afford her every affiftance in our power, we kept {landing on clofe by the edge of the ice. Ac fix, the wind happily coming round to the North, gave us fome hopes, that the ice might drift away and releafe her; and in that cafe, as it was uncertain in what condition fhe might come out, we kept firing a gun every half hour, in order to prevent a feparation. Our apprehenfions for her fafety did not ceafe till nine, when we heard her guns in anfwer to ours ; and foon after, being hailed by her, were informed, that upon the change of wind, the ice began to feparate ; and that, fetting all their fails, they forced a paffage through it. We learned farther, that whilfl they were encompaffed by it, they found the fhip drift, with the main body, to the North Eaft, at the rate of half a mile an hour. We were lorry to find, that the Difcovery had rubbed off a great deal of the fheathing from the bows, and was become very leaky, from the ftrokes flic had received when the fell upon the edge of the ice. Saturday 24. On the 24th, we had frefh breezes from South Weft, with hazy weather, and kept running to the South Eaft till eleven in the forenoon, when a large body of loofe ice, extending from North North Eaft, round by the Eaft, to South South Eaft, and to which (though the weather was tolerably clear) we could fee no end, again obftrucled our courfc. We there- fore kept working to windward, and at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 68° 53', longitude 188°; the variation of the compafs 220 30' Eaft. At four in the afternoon, it be- 4 came THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 259 came calm, and we hoifted out the boats in purfuit of the '779- July. fea-horfes, which were in prodigious herds on every fide of v- — «— -* us.' We killed ten of them, which were as many as we could make ufe of for eating, or for converting into lamp oil. We kept on with the wind, from the South Weft, along the edge of the ice, which extended in a direction al- raoft due Eaft and Weft, till four in the morning of the 25th, Sunday 25. when obferving a clear fea beyond it, to the South Eaft, we made fail that way, with a view of forcing through it. By fix, we had cleared it, and continued the remainder of the day running to the South Eaft, without any ice in fight. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 68" 38', longitude 1 89° 9', and the depth of water thirty fathoms. At mid- night, we tacked, and flood to the Weftward, with a frefh gale from the South ; and at ten in the forenoon of the 26th, Monday 26. the ice again mewed itfelf, extending from North Weft to South. It appeared loofe, and drifting, by the force of the wind, to the Northward. At noon, our latitude, by obfer. vation, was 68° North, longitude 188° 10' Eaft; and we had foundings with twenty-eight fathoms. For the remaining part of the day, and till noon of the 27th, we kept ftanding Tuefday 27. backward and forward, in order to clear ourfelves of differ- ent bodies of ice. At noon, we were in latitude, by obferva- tion, 67° 47', longitude 188*. At two in the afternoon, we faw the continent to the South by Eaft ; and at four, having run, fince noon, with a South South Eaft wind to the South Weft, we were furrounded by loofe mafTes of ice, with the firm body of it in fight, ftretching in a North by Weft, and a South by Eaft direction, as far as the eye could reach j be- yond which we faw the coaft of Afia, bearing South, and South by Eaft. L 1 2 As 26o AVOYAGETO 1779- As it was now neceffary to come to fome determination v "y' / with rcfpcct to the courfe we were next to fleer, Captain Clerke lent a boat, with the carpenters, on board the Difco- very, to inquire into the particulars of the damage fhe had fuftained. They returned, in the evening, with the report of Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both mips, that the damages they had received were of a kind that would require three weeks to repair; and that it would be necef- fary, for that purpofe, to go into fome port. Thus, finding a farther advance to the Northward, as well as a nearer approach to either continent, obftructed by a fea. blocked up with ice, we judged it both injurious to the fer- vice, by endangering the fafety of the fhips, as well as fruitlcfs, with refpect to the defign of our voyage, to make any farther attempts toward a paffage. This, therefore, added to the reprefentations of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke not to lofe more time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but to fail for Awatfka Bay, to repair our damages there ; and, before the winter fliould fet in, and render all other efforts toward difcovery impractica- ble, to explore the coall of Japan. I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance of every individual, as foon as Captain C lcrkc's refolutions were made known. We were all hear- tily fick of a navigation full of danger, and in which the utmoft perfeverance had not been repaid with the fmalleft probability of fuccefs. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after an abfencc of three years, with a de- light and fatisfaction, which, notwithftanding the tedious voyage we had ftill to make, and the immenfc diftance wc had to run, were as freeiy entertained, and perhaps as 2 fully THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 261 fully enjoyed, as if we had been already in fight of the *779- Land's-end. «. — - — -» On the 28th, we kept working to windward with a frefh. Wednef. *8, breeze from the South Eaft, having the coaft of Afia ftill in fight. At four in the morning, the Cape, which on the authority of Muller, we have called Serdze Kamen, bore South South Weft, diftant fix or feven leagues. We faw, in different places, upon the tops of the hills, which rife in- land on both fides of the Cape, protuberances of a confider- able height, which had the appearance of huge rocks, or pillars of ftone. On the 29th, the wind Mill continuing contrary, we made Thurfdayjp* but flow progrefs to the Southward. At midnight we had thick, foggy weather, accompanied with a breeze from the North North Weft, with which we directed our courfe to the South South Eaft, through the ftraits, and had no land in fight till feven in the evening of the 30th; when the fog Friday 30. clearing away, we faw Cape Prince of Wales bearing South by Eaft, diftant about fix leagues; and the ifland St. Diomede South Weft by Weft. We now altered our courfe to the Weft, and at eight made the Eaft Cape, which, at midnight, bore Weft by North, diftant four leagues. In the night we fleered to the South South Weft, with a frefh Weft North Wefterly breeze; and, at four in the morning of the 31ft, the Eaft Saturday 31. Cape bore North North Eaft, and the North Eaft part of the bay of St. Laurence (where we anchored the laft year) Weft by South, irs diftance being four leagues. As we could not have worked up to windward without a greater wafte of time, than the object appeared to deferve, we ran acrofs the bay, regretting much, as we pa fled along, the lofs of this opportunity of paying a fecond vifit to the Tfchutfki. At noon 262 AVOYAOETO •779- noon our latitude, by obfervation, was 65* 6', and longitude 1890. The South point of the Bay of St. Laurence bore North by Weft one quarter Weft, and was diftant feven or eight leagues. In the afternoon the variation was found to be 22" 50' Eaft. Having now pafTed Beering's Straits, and taken our final leave of the North Eaft coaft of Afta, it may not be improper, on this occafion, to ftate the grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general conclufions refpecting its ex- tent, in oppofition to the opinions of Mr. Muller. The firft, that the promontory named Eaft Cape is actually the Eaftern- moft point of that quarter of the globe ; or, in other words, that no part of the continent extends in longitude beyond 1900 22' Eaft: the fecond, that the latitude of the North Eaft- ernmoft extremity falls to the Southward of 700 North. With refpect to the former, if fuch land exift, it muft neceflarily be to the North of latitude 690, where the difcoveries made in the prefent voyage terminate ; and, therefore, the pro- bable direction of the coaft, beyond this point, is the quef- tion I fhall endeavour, in the firft place, to inveftigate. As the Ruffian is the only nation that has hitherto navi- gated thefe feas, all our information refpecting the fitua- tion of the coaft to the Northward of Cape North, muft ne- ceflarily be derived from the charts and journals of the perfons who have been employed, at various times, in alccr- taining the limits of that empire; and thefe are, for the moft part, fo imperfect, lb confuted, and contradictory, that it is not eafy to form any dillinct idea of their pretended, much lefs to collect the amount of their real difcoveries. It is on this account, that the extent and form of the penin- fula, inhabited by the Tfchutfki, ftill remains a point, on which THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 263 which the Ruffian geographers are much divided. Mr. Mul- '779- July. ler, in his map, publifhed in the year j 754, fuppofes this coun- v — . — -» try to extend toward the North Eaft, to the 750 of latitude, and in longitude 1900 Eaft of Greenwich, and to terminate in a round Cape, which he calls Tfchukotfkoi Nofs. To the Southward of this Cape he conceives the coafl to form a bay to the Weft ward, bounded in latitude 670 18', by Serdze Ka- men, the Northernmoft point feen by Beering in his expedi- tion in the year 1728. The map, published by the acade- my of St. Peterfburg, in the year 1776, gives the whole peninfula intirely a new form, placing its North Eafternmoft extremity in the latitude 730, longitude 1780 30'. The Eafternmoft point in latitude 650 30', longitude 1890 30'. All the other maps we faw, both printed and in manufcripr, vary between thefe two, apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler, than on any grounds of more ac- curate information. The only point in which there is a general coincidence, without any confiderable variation, is in the pofition of the Eaft Cape in latitude 66°. The form of the coaft, both to the South and North of this Cape, in the map of the academy, is exceedingly erroneous, and may be totally difregarded. In that of Mr. Muller, the coaft to the Northward bears a confiderable refemblance to our fur- vey, as far as the latter extends, except that it does not trend fufliciently to the Weftward ; receding only about 5° of longitude, between the latitude of 66° and 690 ; whereas, in reality, it recedes near ten. Between the latitude of 69* and 74°, he makes the coaft bend round to the North and North Eaft, and to form a confiderable promontory. On what authority, now remains to be examined. Mr. Coxe, whofe accurate researches into this fubje^t, give his opinion great weight, is perfuaded that the extremity of the 264 A VOYAGE TO '779- the Kofs in queftion, was never patted but by Defhneff and his party, who failed from the river Kovyma in the year 1648, and are fuppofed to have got round it into the Anadyr. As the account of this expedition, the fubflance of which the Reader will find in Mr. Coxe's Account of Ruffian Difco- veries, contains no geographical delineation of the coafl along which they failed, its pofition muff be conjectured from incidental circumftances ; and from thefe it appears very manifeft, that the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs of DcmnefF is no other than the promontory called, by Captain Cook, the Eaft Cape. Speaking of the Nofs, he fays, " One might " fail from the ifthmus to the river Anadyr, with a " fair wind, in three days and three nights." This exactly coincides with the fituation of the Eaft Cape, which is about one hundred and twenty leagues from the mouth of the Anadyr ; and as there is no other ifthmus to the Northward between that and the latitude of 690, it is obvious, that, by this defcription, he muft intend either the Cape in queftion, or fome other to the Southward of it. In another place he fays, " Over againft the ifthmus there are two iflands in " the fea, upon which were feen people of the Tfchutfki " nation, through whofe lips were run pieces of the teeth " of the fea-horfe." This again perfectly agrees with the two iilands fituated to the South Eaft of the Eaft Cape. We law indeed no inhabitants on them ; but it is not at all im- probable, that a party of the Americans, from the oppofite continent, whom this defcription accurately fuits, might, at that time, have been accidentally there ; and whom it was natural enough for him to miftake for a tribe of the Tfchutiki . Thefe * From the circumfrance, related in the laft Volume, that gave name to Sledge illand, it appears, that the inhabitants of the adjacent continents viiit occasionally the fmail THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 265 Thefe two circumftances are of fo ftriking and unequivo- '779- cal a nature, that they appear to me conclufive on the point of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, notwithflanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have from the fame authority, and which now remain to be confidered. " To " go," fays Defhneff in another account, '« from the Ko- u vyma, to the Anadyr, a great promontory mud be doubled, " which flretches very far into the fea;" and afterward, " this promontory flretches between North and North Eaft." It was probably from the expreflions contained in thefe paflages, that Mr. Muller was induced to give the country of the Tfchutfki the form we find in his map j but had he been acquainted with the fituation of the Eaft Cape, as afcertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable coinci- dence between it and their promontory or ifthmus (for it muft be obferved, that Defhneff appears to be all along fpeaking of the fame thing), in the circumftances already mentioned, I am confident, he would not have thought thofe expreflions, merely by themfelves, of fufficient weight to warrant him in extending the North Eaflern extremity of Afia, either fo far to the North or to the Eaftward. For, after fmall iflands lying between them, probably for the conveniency of fifliing, or in pur- fuit of furs. It appears alfo from PopofPs depofition, which I (hall have occafion to fpeak of more particularly hereafter, that the general refemblance between the people, who are feen in thefe iflands, and the Tfchutfki, was fufficient to lead DefchnefFinto the error of imagining them to be the fame. " Oppofite to the Nofs," he fays, " is an ifland of moderate fize, without trees, whofe inhabitants refemble, in their exterior, the Tfchutjki, although they are quite another nation ; not numerous indeed, yet fpeaking their own particular language." Again, " One may go in a baidare from the Nofs to the ifland in half a day : beyond is a great continent, which can be difcovered from the ifland in ferene weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the ifland to the continent in a day. The inhabitants of the continent are fimilar to the Tchutjki, excepting that they fpcak another language." Vol. III. M m all, 265 A VOYAGE TO '7-9- all, thefe expreflions arc not irrcconcilcablc with the opinion July. . l we have adopted, if we fuppole Defhneff to have taken thefe bearings from the fmall bight which lies to the Wefhvard of the Cape. The depofition of the CofTac PopofF, taken at the Anadir- fkoi ojlrogy in the year 17 11, fecms to have been the next authority on which Mr. Muller has proceeded ; and befide thefe two, I am not acquainted with any other. This Coffac, together with feveral others, was fent by land to demand tribute from the independent Tfchutfki tribes, who lived about the Nofs. The firft circumftance, in the account of this journey, that can lead to the fituation of Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, is its diftancc from Anadirfk; and this is dated to be ten weeks journey, with loaded rein-deer; on which ac- count it is added, their day's journey was but very fmall. It is impoflible to conclude much from fo vague an account ; but, as the diftance between the Eaft Cape and the ojirog is upward of two hundred leagues in a ftraight line, and therefore may be fuppofed to allow twelve or fifteen miles a day ; its fituation cannot be reckoned incompatible with Pop- ofl's calculation. The next circumilancc mentioned in this depofition is, that their route lay by the foot of a rock called Matkol, fituated at the bottom of a great gulf. This gulf Muller fuppofes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude 66° and 72° ; and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the center of it ; but it appears equally probable, even if we had not fo many reafons to doubt the exigence of that bay, that it might be fome part of the gulf of Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the ojlrog to the Eaft Cape. But what fecms to put this matter beyond all difputc, and to prove that the Cape vifited by Popoff cannot be to the 3 North- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 267 Northward of 690 latitude, is that part of his depofition, \779-. which I have already quoted, relative to the ifland lying- off ' — — . ' the Nofs, from whence the oppofite continent might be feen. For as the two continents, in latitude 69s, have diverged fo far as to be more than three hundred miles diftant, it is highly improbable, that the Afiatic coafl mould again trend in fuch a manner to the Eaflward, as to come nearly within fight of the Coafl of America. If thefe arguments mould be deemed conclufive againft the exiflence of the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, as laid down by Muller, it will follow, that the Eafl Cape is the Tfchu- kotfkoi Nofs of the * more early Ruffian navigators ; and, confcquently, that the undefcribed coafl, from the latitude of 690 to the mouth of the river Kovyma, mud uniformly trend more or lefs to the Well ward. As an additional proof of this, it may be remarked, that the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs is always reprcfented as dividing the fea of Kovyma from that of Anadir, which could not be the cafe, if any consider- able cape had projected to the North Eafl in the higher latitudes. Thus, in the depofitions taken at Anadirfk, it is related, " that oppofite the Nofs, on both fides, as well " in the fea of Kovyma, as in that of Anadir, an ifland is faid " to be feen at a great diflance, which the Tfchutfki call a " large country ; and fay, that people dwell there who have " large teeth put in their mouths, that project through their " checks." Then follows a defcription of thefe people and their country, exactly correfponding wiih our accounts of the oppofite continent. * 1 mention the more early Ruffian navigators, becaufe Beering, whom we have a! fo followed, and after him all the late Ruffian geographers, have given this name tothe-South Kaft Cape of the peninfula of the Tfehuuki, which was formerly called the AnaJirfkoi Nbifsj Mm 2 The 268 A VOYAGE TO >779- The lad qucftion that arifes is, to what degree of Northern latitude this coaft extends, before it trends more directly to the Weftward. If the fituation of the mouth of the Ko- vyma, both with refpect to its latitude and longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not be very diffi- cult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Cap- tain Cook was always ftrongly of opinion, that the Northern coaft of Alia, from the Indigirka eaftward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than two degrees to the North- ward of its true pofition ; and he has, therefore, on the authority of a map that was in his poflefiion, and on the in- formation he received at Oonalafhka, placed the mouth of the river Kovyma, in his chart of the North Weft coaft of America, and the North Eaft coaft of Afia, in the latitude of 68°. Should he be right in this conjecture, it is probable, for the reafons that have been already ftated, that the Afiatic coaft does not any where exceed 70* before it trends to the Weftward ; and confequently, that we were within i* of its North Eaftern extremity. For, if the continent be fuppofed to ftretch, any where to the Northward of Shelat- fkoi Nofs, it is fcarcely poflible, that fo extraordinary a cir- cumftance mould not have been mentioned by the Ruffian navigators -r and we have already fhewn, that they make mention of no remarkable promontory between the Kovy- ma and the Anadir, except the Eaft Cape. Another circum- ftance, related by Defhneff, may, perhaps, be thought a further confirmation of this opinion, namely, that he met with no impediment from ice in navigating round the North Eaft extremity of Afia> though he adds, that this fea is not always fo free from it ; as indeed is manifeft from the failure of his firft expedition, and, fince that, from the un- 1 fuccefsful THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 269 fuccefsful attempts of Shalauroff, and the obftacles we met w* with, in two different years, in our prefent voyage. The continent, left undetermined in our chart, between Cape North, and the mouth of the Kovyma, is, in longitu- dinal extent, one hundred and twenty- five leagues. One third, or about forty leagues, of this diftance, from the the Kovyma Eaftward, was explored in the year 1723, bv a Sinbojarfkoi of Jakutz, whofe name was Fedot Amoflbff; by whom Mr. Muller was informed, that its direction was to the Eaftward. It is faid to have been fince accurately fur- veyed by Shalauroff, whofe chart makes it trend to the North Eaft by Eaft, as far as the Shelatfkoi Nofs, which he places about forty-three leagues to the Eaftward of the Kovyma. The fpace between this Nofs and Cape North, about eighty-two leagues, is therefore the only part of the Ruffian empire that now remains unascertained. But if the river Kovyma be erroneoufly fituated with re- fpeft to its longitude, as well as in its latitude, a fuppolition for which probable grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coaft will become proportionably diminiflied. The reafons which incline me to believe, that the mouth of this river is placed in the Ruffian charts much too far to the Weftward, are as follow : Firft, becaufe the accounts that are given of the navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river, round the North Eaft point of Afia, to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the fuppofed diftance between thofe places. Secondly, becaufe the diftance over land, from the Kovyma to the Anadir, is reprefented by the early Ruffian travellers as a journey eafily performed, and of no very ex- traordinary length. Thirdly, becaufe the coaft from the Shelatfkoi Nofs of Shalauroff* feems to trend directly South * See Chart in Coxe's Account of Ruffian Difcoverics. Eaft 270 A VOYAGE TO Eaft to the Eaft Cape. If this be So, it will follow, that, as we were probably not more than i° to the Southward of Shclatikoi Nofs, only fixty miles of the Afiatic coaft remain unascertained. Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in a fecond attempr, the impracticability of a North Eaft or North Weft pafTagc from the Pacific to the At- lantic Ocean, he would doubtlefs have laid before the Pub- lic, in one connected view, an account of the obftacles which defeated this, the primary object of our expedition, together with his obfervations on a fubject of fuch magni- tude, and which had engaged the attention, and divided the opinions of philofophers and navigators, for upward of two hundred years. I am very fenfible how unequal I am to the tafk of Supplying this deficiency ; but that the expectations of the reader may not be wholly difappointed, I muft beg his candid acceptance of the following obfervations, as well as of thofe I have already ventured to offer him, relative to the extent of the North Eaft coaft of Afta. The evidence that has been fo fully and judicioufly dated in the introduction, amounts to the higheft degree of pro- bability, that a North Weft pafTagc, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot exifl to the Southward of 65° of latitude. If then there exiils a paflage, it muft be either through Baffin's Pay, or round by the North of Greenland, in the Weftcrn hemifphcrc j or elfe through the Frozen • Ocean, to the Northward of Siberia, in the Eaftcrn ; and on .whichever fide it lies, the navigator muft neceflarily pafs through Pecring's Straits. The impracticability of penc- iling into the Atlantic on either fide, through this ftrait, is ere fore all that remains to be Submitted to the considera- tion of the Public. As THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 271 As far as our experience went, it appears, that the fea to' \~~9- the North of Beering's ftrait, is clearer of ice in Auguft than in July, and perhaps in a part of September it may be dill more free. But after the equinox, the days fhorten fo faft, that no farther thaw can be expected j and we cannot ra- tionally allow fo great an effect to the warm weather in the firft half of September, as to imagine it capable of difper- fing the ice from the moft Northern parts of the American coaft. But admitting this to be poffible, it muft at lead be granted, that it would be madnefs to attempt to run from the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay (a diftance of four hundred and twenty leagues), in fo fhort a time as that paffage can be fuppofed to continue open. Upon the Afiatic fide, there appears flill lefs probability of fuccefs, both from what came to our own knowledge, with refpect to the Hate of the fea to the Southward of Cape North, and alfo from what we learn from the experience of the * Lieutenants under Beering's direction, and the journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the North of Siberia. The voyage of Defhneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the poffibility of paffing round the North Eaft point of Afia ; but when the reader reflects, that near a cen- tury and a half has elapfed fincc the time of that navigator, during which, in an age of great curiofity and cnterprize, no man has yet been able to follow him, he will not enter- tain very fanguine expectations of the public advantages that can be derived from it. But let us even fuppofc, that in ibme Angularly favourable feafon a fhip has found a clear paffage round the coaft of Siberia, and is fafcly arrived at the mouth of the Lena, flill there remains the Cape of Tai • * See Gmelin, pages 369. 374, murn> 2JZ. A VOYAGE TO 1779- mura, ftretchlng to the 780 of latitude, which the good for- tune of no fingle voyager has hitherto doubled. It is, however, contended, that there are ftrong reafons for believing, that the fea is more free from ice, the nearer we approach to the pole ; and that all the ice we faw in the lower latitudes, was formed in the great rivers of Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled the in- termediate fea. But even if that fuppofition be true, it is equally fo, that there can be no accefs to thofe open feas, unlefs this great mafs of ice is fo far diflblved in the fum- mer, as to admit of a fhip's getting through it. If this be the fact, we have taken a wrong time of the year for at- tempting to find this pafTage, which mould have been ex- plored in April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But how many reafons may be given againft fuch a fuppo- fition. Our experience at Saint Peter and Saint Paul en- abled us to judge what might be expected farther North; and upon that ground, we had reafon to doubt, whether the continents might not in winter be even joined by the ice ; and this agreed with the ftories we heard in Kamtf- chatka, that on the Siberian coaft, they go out from the more in winter, upon the ice, to greater diftances than the breadth of the fea is, in fome parts, from one continent to the other. In the depofitions referred to above, the following remark- able circumftance is related. Speaking of the land feen from the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, it is faid, " that in fummer time they fail in one day to the land in baidares, a fort of veflel conftru&ed of whale-bone, and covered with feal- fkins ; and in winter time, going fwift with rein deer, the journey may likewife be made in a day." A fufficient proof, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 27: proof, that the two countries were ufually joined together '779- by the ice. The account given by Mr. Muller, of one of the expedi- tions undertaken to difcover a fuppofed ifland in the Frozen Sea, is ftill more remarkable. " In the year 17 14, a new " expedition was prepared from Jakutzk, for the fame u place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was " to fail from the mouth of the Jana ; and if the Schitiki " were not fit for fea voyages, he was to conftruct, at a pro- " per place, vefTels fit for profecuting the difcoveries with- *' out danger. " On his arrival at Uft-janfkoe Simovie, the port at which " he was to embark, he fent an account, dated February 2, '* 17 15, to the Chancery of Jakutzk, mentioning, that it " was impofTible to navigate the fea, as it was continually M frozen, both in fummer and winter; and that, confe- " quently, the intended expedition, was no otherwife to be " carried on, but with (ledges drawn by dogs. In this " manner, he accordingly fet out, with nine perfons, on " the 10th of March the fame year, and returned on the " 3d of April, to Ufl-janfkoe Simovie. The account of " his journey is as follows : that he went feven days, " as fall as his dogs could draw him (which, in good " ways and weather, is eighty or a hundred werfts in a " day) directly toward the North, upon the ice, without ?« difcovering any ifland: that it had not been poffible for " him to proceed any farther, the ice rifing there in the fea " like mountains: that he had climbed to the top of fome " of them, whence he was able to fee to a great diltance " round about him, but could difcern no appearance of Vol. III. N n « land : r74 AVOYAGETO '779- " land: and that, at laft, wanting food for his dogs, many < tJ- — ' " of them died, which obliged him to return." Befides thefe arguments, which proceed upon an admif- fion of the hypothefis, that the ice in thofe feas comes from the rivers, there are others which give great room to fufpect the truth of the hypothefis itfelf. Captain Cook, whofe opinion refpecfting the formation of ice had formerly coincided with that of the theories we are now controvert- ing, found abundant reafon, in the prefent voyage, for changing his fentiments. We found the coaft of each con- tinent to be low, the foundings gradually decreafing toward them, and a ftriking refcmblance between the two •, which, together with the description Mr. Hearne gives of the copper- mine river, afford reafon to conjecture, that whatever rivers may empty themfelves into the Frozen Sea, from the Ame- rican continent, are of the fame nature with thofe on the Afiatic fide ; which are reprefented to be fo fhallow at the entrance, as to admit only fmall veiTels; whereas the ice we have fcen, rifes above the level of the fea to a height equal to the depth of thofe rivers ; fo that its entire height mull be at lead ten times greater. The curious reader will alfo, in this place, be led naturally to reflect on another circumftance, which appears very in- compatible with the opinion of thofe who imagine land to be necellary for the formation of ice ; I mean the different flate of the fea about Spitfbergen, and to the North of Beer- ing's Straits. It is incumbent on them to explain how it comes to pafs, that in the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much known land, the navigator annually penetrates to near 8o° North latitude ; whereas, on the other fide, his ut- moft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 275 raoft efforts have not been able to carry him beyond 71*; »779. where, moreover, the continents diverge nearly Eaft and ■■ "/' _r Weft, and where there is no land yet known to exift near the pole. For the farther fatisfaction of the reader on this point, I fhall beg leave to refer him to Obfer nations made, during a voyage round the world, by Dr. Forfler, where he will find the queftion of the formation of ice, fully and fa- tisfactorily difcuffed, and the probability of open polar feas difproved by a variety of powerful arguments. I fhall conclude thefe remarks with a fliort comparative view of the progrefs we made to the Northward, at the two different feafons we were engaged in that purfuic, together with a few general obfervations relative to the fea, and the coaft of the two continents, which lie to the North of Beer- ing's Straits. It may be obferved, that in the year 1778, we did not meet with the ice, till we advanced to the latitude of 700, on Auguft 17th; and that then we found it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which a part or the whole was moveable, fince, by its drift- ing down upon us, we narrowly efcaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After experiencing both how fruitlefs and dangerous it would be to attempt to penetrate farther North, between the ice and the land, we flood over toward the Afiatic fide, between the latitude 690 and 70°, fre- quently encountering, in this tract, large and extenfive fields of ice ; and though, by reafon of the fogs, and thicknefs of the weather, we were not able abfolutely and entirely to trace a connected line of it acrofs, yec we were fure to meet with it before we reached the latitude of 700, whenever wr attempted to ftand to the Northward. On the 26th of Au- N n 2 guft. 276 A VOYAGE TO 17-9. guft, in latitude 69^°, and longitude 184.0, we were obftructed July, i__ by it in fuch quantities, as made it impollible for us to paf3 either to the North or Weft, and obliged us to run along the edge of it to the South South Weft, till we faw land, which we afterward found to be the coaft of Afia. With the feafon thus far advanced, the weather fetting in with mow and fleet, and other figns of approaching winter, we abandoned our cnterprize for that time. In this fecond attempt, we could do little more than con- firm the obfervations we had made in the firft ; for we were never able to approach the continent of Afia higher than the latitude of 67", nor that of America in any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 68° and 68° 20',. that were not feen the laft year. We were now obftructed by ice 3* lower, and our endeavours to pufh farther to the Northward, were principally confined to the mid-ipace be- tween the two coafts. We penetrated near 30 farther, on the American fide than on the Afiatic, meeting with the ice both years fooner, and in greater quantities, on the latter coaft. As we advanced North, we it ill found the ice more compact and folid ; yet as, in our different traverfes from fide to fide, we pafied over (paces which had before been covered with it, we conjectured, that moll of what we faw was moveable. Its height, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the higheft to have been fixteen or eighteen. We again tried the currents twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an hour. By comparing the reckoning with the obfervations, we alio found the currentto let different ways, yet more from theSouth Weft than any other quarter ; but whatever their direction might be, their effect was fo trifling, that no conclulions, re- fpecting THE PACIFIC OCEAN. rj-T fpecting the exiftence of any pafTage to the Northward, could '7'9- be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be in- finitely colder than that of Auguft. The thermometer in July was once at 280, and very commonly at 300 j whereas the laft year, in Auguft, it was very rare to have it fo low as the freezing point. In both feafons, we had fome high winds, all of which came from the South Well:. We were fubject to fogs, whenever the wind was moderate, from whatever quarter, but they attended Southerly winds more conftantly than contrary ones. The (traits, between the two continents, at their neareft approach, in latitude 66°, were afcertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they diverge to North Eaft by Eaft and Weft North Weft ; and in latitude 6/, they become 140 of longitude, or about one hundred leagues, afunder. A great fimilarity is obfervable in the appearance of the two countries, to the Northward of the ftraits. Both are defti- tute of wood. The mores are low, with mountains rifing to a great height farther up the country. The depth of water, in the mid-way between them, was twenty-nine and thirty fathoms, decreasing gradually as we approached either concincnt, with the difference of being fome what fhoaler on the American than on the Afiatic coaft, at the. fame diftance from land. The bortom, in the middle, was a foft ilimy mud ; and on drawing near to either more, a brown fand, intermixed with fma.ll fragments of bones, and a few fliells. We obferved but little tide or current; what there was, came from the Weftward. But it is now time to refume the narrative of our voyage, which was broken off on the 31ft of July, on which day at noon we had advanced eighteen leagues to the Southward of the Eaft Cape. 7 We 273 A V O Y A G E TO '779-' We had light airs from the South Weft, till noon of the Auguft. ° v_ — ^-^j i ft of Auguft, at which time our latitude, by obfervation, was 640 23', longitude 1890 15', the coaft of Alia extended from North Weft by Weft to Weft half South, diftant about twelve leagues ; and the land to the Eaftward of Saint Lau- Monday 2. rence bore South half Weft. On the 2d, the weather be- coming clear, we faw the fame land at noon, bearing from Weft South Weft half Weft to South Eaft, making in a num- ber of high hummocks, which had the appearance of fe- parate iflands ; the latitude, by obfervation, was 640 3', longitude 189* 28', and depth of water feventeen fathoms. We did not approach this land fufficicntly near to deter- mine, whether it was one ifland, or compofed of a clufter together. Its Wefternmoft part we patted July 3d, in the evening, and then fuppofed to be the ifland of Saint Lau- rence ; the Eafternmoft we ran clofe by in September laft year, and this we named Clerke's Ifland, and found it to confift of a number of high cliffs, joined together by very low land. Though we miftook, the laft year, thofe cliffs for feparate iflands, till we approached very near the fliore, I fhould flill conjecture, that the ifland Saint Laurence was diftinct from Clerke's Ifland, fince there appeared a conGder- ablc fpace between them, where we could not perceive the fmalleft rifing of ground. In the afternoon, we alfo faw what bore the appearance of a fmall ifland, to the North Eaft of the land, which was fecn at noon, and which, from the hazinefs of the weather, we had only fight of once. We cflimatcd its diftance to be nineteen leagues from the ifland of Saint Laurence, in a North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft TuefJay 3. direction. On the 3d, we had light variable winds, and di- rected our courfe round the North Weft point of the ifland WeJnef. 4. of Saint Laurence. On the 4th, at noon, our latitude, by account, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 279 account, was 640 8', longitude 1880; the Ifland St. Lau- *r?9^ rence bearing South one quarter Eaft, diftant feven leagues. In the afternoon, a frefh, breeze fpringing up from the Eaft, we fleered to the South South Weft, and foon loft fight of St. Laurence. On the 7th, at noon, the latitude, Saturday 7. by obfervation, was 590 38', longitude 1830. In the after- noon, it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in feventy-eight fathoms of water. The variation was found to be 190 Eaft. From this time, to the 17th, we were making the beft of our way to the South, without any occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind coming from the Weflern quarter, forced us farther to the Eaftward than we wifhed, as it was our intention to make Beering's ifland. On the 17th, at half pad four in the morning, we faw Tuefday 17. land to the North Weft, which we could not approach, the wind blowing from that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 53° 49', longitude 16S0 5', and variation io° Eaft. The land in fight bore North by Weft, twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. This land we take to be the ifland Mednoi, laid down, in the Ruffian charts, to the South Eaft of Beering's Ifland. It is high land, and appeared clear of fnow. We place it in the latitude 540 28', longitude 16 f 52'. We got no foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed ; he therefore defired, that the officers would receive their orders from me, and directed that we fhould proceed, with all fpeed, to Awatfka Bay. The wind continuing Weft- erly, we flood on to the South, till early on the morning of 2 the *8o AVOYAGETO '779- the roth, when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the Auguft. yen * „ ' Eaftward, and frefnened to a ftrong gale. We accordingly made the mod of it whilft it laded, by Handing to the Weft- Fridayzo. ward, under all the fail we could carry. On the 20th, the wind fhifting to the South Weft, ourcourfewas to the Weft North Weft. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was Saturday 21. ^f jt longitude i62°49'. 0n the 2lft> at half Paft fivc in the morning, we faw a very high peaked mountain on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, called Cheepoonfkoi Mountain, from its lying behind the Nofs, bearing North Weft by North, twenty-five or thirty leagues diftant. At noon, the coaft extended from North by Eaft to Weft, with a very great ha- zinefs upon it, and diftant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the remaining part of this and the following day, and got no foundings with one hundred and forty fathoms of line. Sunday 22. On the 22d of Auguft, .1779. at nine o'clock in the morn- ing, departed this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty- eighth year of his age. He died of a confumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends ; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, the conftant flow of good fpirits, which continued to the laft hour, and a cheerful refignation to his fate, afforded them fome confolation. It was impoflible not to feci a more than common degree of companion for a perfon, whofe life had been a continued fecne of thofe. difficulties and hardships, to which a feaman's occupation is fubjedt, and under which he at laft funk, He was brought up to the Navy from his earlieft THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 281 earliefl youth, and had been in feveral actions during the '779- J ° Auguft. war which began in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where being ftationed in the mizen- top, he was carried overboard with the mail, but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was Midfliipman in the Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on her firfl Voyage round the world, and afterward ferved on the American ftation. In 1768, he made his fecond voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, as Mailer's Mate, and by the promotion, which took place during the expedi- tion, he returned a Lieutenant. His third voyage round the world was in the Refolution, of which he was ap- pointed the Second Lieutenant : and foon after his return, in i775> he was promoted to the rank of Mailer and Com- mander. When the prefcnt expedition was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Difcovery, to accom- pany Captain Cook ; and, by the death of the latter, fuc- ceeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief com- mand. It would be doing his memory extreme injuflice not to fay, that during the fhort time the expedition was under his direction, he was mod zealous and anxious for its fuccefs. His health, about the time the principal command devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal to encounter the rigours of a high Northern climate. But the vigour and activity of his mind had, in no fhape, fulFered by the decay of his body: and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that remained for his reco- very, yet, careful and jealous to the laft degree, that a regard Vol. III. O o to 282 A VOYAGE TO 1779- to his own fituation fliould never bias his judgment to the ,__ u^"- '_i prejudice of the fervice, he perfevered in the fearch of a paf- fage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both fliips, that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be fruitlefs, but dangerous. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 2^3 CHAP. V. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. — Promotion of Officers. — Funeral of Captain Gierke. — Damages of the Difcovery repaired. — Various other Occupations of the Ships Crews. — Letters from the Com- mander.— Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Ruffian Galliot* — Account of an Exile. — Bear-huntitiv and Fi filing Parties. — Dif grace of the Serjeant. — Cele- bration of the King's Coronation Day, and Vift from the Commander. — 'The Serjeant reinjlated. — A Ruffian Soldier promoted at our Requefl. — Remarks on the Dif- cipline of the Ruffian Army. — Church at Paratounca. — Method of Bear- hunting. — Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtfchadales. — Infcription to the Memory of Cap- tain Clerke. — Supply of Cattle. — Entertainments on the Emprefs 's Name Day* — Prefent from the Commander. — Attempt of a Marine to defert. — TForh out of the Bay. — Nautical and Geographical Defcription of Awatjka Bay* — Aflronomical Tables, end Objerva- tions. I SENT Mr. Williamfon to acquaint Captain Gore with i779. the death of Captain Clerke, and received a letter from ^_J^Z^j him, ordering me to life all my endeavours to keep in com- Sunda>'22- pany with the Difcovery ; and, in cafe of a feparation, to O o 2 make 284 AVOYAGETO 1779- make the beft of my way to the harbour of St. Peter and » -v— — ' St. Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 530 8' North, longi- tude 1600 40' Eaft, with Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bearing Weft. We had light airs in the afternoon, which lafted through Monday 23. foe forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a frelh breeze fpringing up from the Eaftward, we flood in for the entrance of Awat- fka Bay ; and at fix in the evening, faw it bearing Weil North Weft half Weft, diftant five leagues. At eight, the light houfe, in which we now found a good light, bore North Weft by Weft, three miles diftant. The wind about this time died away ; but the tide being in our favour, we fent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow parts of the entrance; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the Tucfday24. 24th, the ebb tide fetting againft us, we dropped anchor. At nine, we weighed, and turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats ftill ahead till one ; when, by the help of a freih breeze, we anchored, before three in the afternoon, in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, with our enfign half ftaff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late Captain ; and were foon after followed by the Dii- covery. We had no fooner anchored, than our old friend, the Serjeant, who was ftill the Commander of the place, came on board with a prefent of berries, intended for our poor deceafed Captain. He was exceedingly affected when wc told him of his death, and mewed him the coffin that con- tained his body. And as it was Captain Clcrke's particular requeft to be buried on more, and, if poffible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the prefent opportunity of explain- ing this matter to the Serjeant, and confulting with him about the proper ftcps to be taken on the occafion. In the courfe of our convcrfation, which, for want of an intcrpre- 6 ter, THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 285 ter, was carried on but imperfectly, we learned that Pro- '779- r J Augult. fefTor de L'lfle, and feveral Ruffian gentlemen, who died here, ' * '_ had been buried in the ground near the barracks, at the ojlrog of St. Peter and St. Paul's ; and that this place would be preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be re- moved thither the next year. It was therefore determined, that we mould wait for the arrival of the Pried of Para- tounca, whom the Serjeant advifed us to fend for, as the only perfon that could fatisfy our inquiries on this fubject. The Serjeant having, at the fame time, fignificd his inten- tions of fending off an exprefs to the Commander at Bol- cheretfk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain Gore availed himfelf of that occafion of writing him a letter, in which he requefled that fixteen head of black cattle might be fent with all poflible expedition. And becaufc the Com- mander did not underftand any language except his own, the nature of our requefl was made known to the Serjeant, who readily undertook to fend, along with our letter, an explana- tion of its contents. We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved in its appearance fmce we were lad here, the Ruffians looked, if poflible, worfe now than they did then. It is to be owned, they obferved, that this was alfo the cafe with us ; and as neither party feemed rb like to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual confolation in throwing the blame upon the country, whole green and lively complexion, we agreed, call a deadnefs and fallow- nefs upon our own. The irruption of the volcano, which was fo violent when we failed out of the bay, we found, had done no damage here, notwithftanding Hones had fallen at the ojlrog, of the ftze 2g6 AVOYAGETO 1779- fize of a goofe's egg. This was all the news wc had to in- \_ -.-.'__' quire after, and all they had to tell; excepting that of the arrival of Sopofnikoff from Oonalafhka, who took charge of the pacquet Captain Cook had fent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much fatisfadtion to find, had been for- warded. Wednef. 25. in the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commiffions, in confequenceof Captain Clerkc's death ; appointing himfelf to the command of the Refolution, and me to the command of the Difcovery; and Mr. Lanyan, mailer's Mate of the Refolution, who had ferved in that ca- pacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant Lieutenancy. Thefe promotions produced the following farther arrangements : Lieutenants Burney and Rickman were removed from the Difcovery, to be Firfl and Second Lieutenants of the Refolution ; and Lieutenant Williamfon was appointed Firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery. Captain Gore alfo permitted me to take into the Difcovery, four Midfhipmen, who had made thcmfelves iifeful to me in agronomical calculations, and whofe af- fiftance was now particularly neceffary, as we had no ephe- vieris for the prefent year. And, that aflronomical observa- tions might continue to be made in both fhips, Mr. Bayley took my place in the Refolution. The fame day we were vifited by the Pope Romanoff Vcrcfhagcn, the worthy Prieit of Paratounca. He expreffed his forrow at the death of Captain Clcrke in a manner that did honour to his feelings, and confirmed the account given by the Serjeant, refpecting the intended removal of the church to the harbour; adding, that the timber was actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to Captain Gore. c The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 287 The Difcovery, as has been mentioned, had fuffered great a1779; damage from the ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; v- — < — -» and having, ever fmce, been exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that fome of her timbers had ftarted. Captain Gore therefore fent the carpenters of the Refolution to aflift our own in repairing her ; and accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to lighten her forward, they were fet to work to rip the damaged fheathing from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three feet of the third ftrake, un- der the wale, were flaved, and the timbers within ftarted. A tent was next erected, for the accommodation of fuch of our people as were employed on more; and a party were fent a mile into the country, to the Northward of the har- bour, to fell timber. The obfervatories were erected at the Weft end of the village, near a tent, in which Captain Gore and myfelf took up our abode. The farther we proceeded in removing the fheathing, the Thurfdayz6. more we difcovered of the decayed ftate of the fhip's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be fo exceedingly rotten, as to make it neceflary to ihift it. This left us for fome time at a ftand, as nothing was to be found, in either fhip, wherewith to replace it, un- lefs we chofe to cut up a top maft; an expedient not to be had recourfe to, till all others failed. The carpenters were therefore fent on fhore in the afternoon, in fearch of a tree big enough for the purpofe. Luckily they found a birch, which I believe was the only one of fufficient fize in the whole neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been fawed down by us when we were laft here ; fo that it had the ad- vantage of having lain fome time to feafon. This was fhaped on the fpot, and brought on board the next morning. As 288 A V O Y A G E T O i77'?- As the feafon was now Co far advanced, I was fearful left i. -t-" • any delay or hindrance fhould arife, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of difcovery, and therefore gave orders that no more fheathing fhould he ripped off, than was abfo- lutely neceflary for repairing the damages fuflained by the ice. This I did, being apprehenfive of their meeting with more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that Hate, than be lilled up with green birch, upon a fuppofition that fuch was to be had. All hands were, at prefent, bufily employed in feparate duties, that every thing might be in readinefs for fea, againft the time our carpenters fhould have finifhed their work. We fet apart four men to haul the feine for falmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an excellent quality. After fupplying the immediate wants of both mips, we faired down near a hoglhead a day. The invalids, who were four in number, were employed in gathering greens, and in cooking for the parties on fhore. Our powder was alfo landed, in order to be dried; and the fea-horfe blubber, with which both fhips, in our paffagc to the North (as has been before related), had ftored themfelvcs, was now boiled down for oil, which was become a neceflary article, our candles having long fince been expended. The cooper war. fully engaged in his department : and in this manner were both fhips companies employed in their feveral occupa- s.uurday 28. tions, till Saturday afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for the purpofe of warn- ing their linen, and getting their clothes in fome little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sun- day. Sunday ?9. In the afternoon of that day, we paid the laft offices to Captain Gierke. The officers and men of both fhips walked in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 289 in proceffion to the grave, whilft the fhips fired minute- >779- « r Auguft. guns ; and the fervice being ended, the marines fired three 1 — ■„ — - 1 vcllies. He was interred under a tree, which Hands on rifing ground, in the valley to the North fide of the harbour, where the hofpital and ftore houfes are fituated ; Captain Gore having judged this fituation mofl agreeable to the laft wifiies of the deceafed, for the reafons above-mentioned ; and the Prieft of Paratounca having pointed out a fpot for his grave, which, he faid, would be as near as he could guefs, in the centre of the new church. This reverend Pallor walked in the proceffion, along with the gentleman who read the fervice j and all the Ruffians in the garrifon were affembled, and attended with great refpect and fo- lemnity. On the 30th, the different parties returned to their refpec- Monday 30. tive employments, as mentioned in the courfe of the preced- ing week ; and on the 53d of September, the carpenters ThZy"' having fhifted the rotten and damaged planks, and re- paired and caulked the flieathing of the larboard bow, pro- ceeded to rip off the flieathing that had been injured by the ice, from the ftarboard fide. Here, again, they difcovered four feet of a plank, in the third ftrake under the wale, fo fhaken, as to make it neceffary to be replaced. This was accordingly done, and the flieathing repaired on the 3d. Friday 3. In the afternoon of the fame day, we got on board fome bal- laft, unhung the rudder, and fent it on fliore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely worn away, and a great part of the flieathing rubbed off*. As the carpenters of the Refolu- tion were not yet wanted, we got this fet to rights the next day, but finding the rudder out of all proportion heavy, even Saturday 4. heavier than that of the Refolution, we let it remain on fhore, in order to dry and lighten. Vol. III. P p The 9qo A V O Y A G E T O • ' "J- The fame day, an enfign arrived from Bolcheretfk with a September. ° ■ , 1 letter from the Commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the Serjeant's hands, and, by his aifillance, were made to underftand, that orders had been given about the cattle ; and that they might be expected here in a few days ; and, moreover, that Captain ShmalcfT, the prefent Commander, would himfelf pay us a villt immediately on the arrival of a floop which was daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer, who brought the letter, was the fon of the Captain Lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on disco- very, between Afia and America, eleven years ago, and re- dded at this time at Okotzk *. He informed us, that he was fent to receive our directions, and to take care to get us fup_ plied with whatever our fervice might require ; and that he fliould remain with us, till the Commander was himfelf able to leave Bolcheretfk ; after which he was to return, that the garrifon there might not be left without an officer. Sunday 5. On the 5th, the parties that were on more returned on board, and were employed in fcrubbing the fhip's bottom, * See all that is known of his voyage, and a Chart of his difcoveries, in Mr. Coxe's Account of Ruffian Difcoveries between Afia and America. We were not able to learn, from the Ruffians in Kamtfchatka, a more perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr. Coxe ; and yet they feemed difpofed to communicate all that they really knew. Major Bchin could only inform us, in general, that the expeditica had mifcarricd as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under much blame. It appeared evidently, that he had been on the coafl of America to the Southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the latitude of 640 and 650; and it is molt probable, that his having got too far to the Northward to meet with fea-otters, which the Ruffians, in all their attempts at difcoveries, fecm to have principally in view, and his returning without having made any that promifed commercial advantages, was the caufe of his difgrace, and of the great contempt with which the Ruffians always fpoke of this officer's voyage. The clutter of illands, placed inSynd's chart, between the latitude of 6i° and 65°, is undoubtedly the fame with the iflaiul, called, by Beering, St. Laurence's, and thole we named Clerke's, Anderfon's, and King's IflandSj but their proportionate fize, and relative fituation, are exceedingly erroneous, 3 and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 291 and getting in eight tons of fhingle ballaft. We alfo got up »779- two of our guns, that had been flowed in the fore-hold, and - -•-.. _j mounted them on the deck, being now about to vifit na- tions, our reception amongft whom might a good deal de- pend on the refpectability of our appearance. The Refolution hauled on fhore on the 8th, to repair fome Wednef. $, damages, which fhe had alfo received among the ice, in her cutwater ; and our carpenters, in their turn, were fent to her afliftance. About this time we began to brew a flrong decoction of a fpecies of dwarf-pine that grows here in great abun- dance, thinking that it might hereafter be ufeful in making beer, and that we fhould probably be able to pro- cure fugar or melafles to ferment with it at Canton. At all events, I was fure it would be ferviceable as a medicine for the fcurvy ; and was more particularly defirous of fupply- ing mylelf with as much of it as I could procure, becaufe moll of the preventatives we had brought out, were either ufed, or fpoilcd by keeping. By the time we had prepared a hogfhead of it, the fhip's copper was difcovered to be very thin, and cracked in many places. This obliged me to defift, and to give orders, that it fhould be ufed as fpa- ringly, for the future, as poffible. It might, perhaps, be an ufeful precaution for thofe who may hereafter be en- gaged in long voyages of this kind, either to provide them- felves with a fpare copper, or to fee that the copper ufually furnifhed be of the ftrongeft kind. The various extra- fervices, in which it will be found neceffary to employ them, and efpecially the important one of making antifcorbutic decoctions, feem abfolutely to require fome fuch provifion ; and I mould rather recommend the former on account Pp 2 of 2JS2 A VOYAGE TO '77Q- of the additional quantity of fuel that would be confumed September. . . „ — t in heating thick coppers. V Friday jo. In the morning of the ioth, the boats from both mips were fent to tow into the harbour a Ruffian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five days on her paflage, and had been feen from the light-houfe a fortnight ago, beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time, the crew had fent their only boat on fhore for water, of which they now began to be in great want ; and the wind frefhening, the boat was loft on its return ; and the galliot, being driven out to fea again, had fuffered exceedingly. There were fifty foldiers in her, with their wives and children ; and feveral other paflengers, befides the crew, which confifted of twenty-five; fo that they had upward of an hundred fouls on board. A great number for a veffel of eighty tons ; and that was alfo heavy laden with ftores and provifions. Both this galliot, and the floop we faw here in May, are built like the Dutch doggers. Soon after me had come to anchor, we received a vifit from a Put-parouchlcht or Sub-lieutenant, who was a pafTenger in the galliot, and fent to take the command of this place. Part of the fol- diers, we underftood, were alfo defigned to reinforce the garrifon ; and two pieces of fmall cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the town. It mould feem, from thefe crrcumftances, that our vifit here had drawn the atten- tion of the Ruffian Commanders in Siberia to the defencelefs fituation of the place ; and I was told by the honcft Serjeant, with many fignificant fhrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other nations might do the fame, fome of whom might not be altogether fo welcome. s Next THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 293 Next morning; the Refolution hauled off from the fhore, '779- 1 • • 1 n September. having repaired the damages flie had fuftained by the ice ; -. — 2 — * and, in the courfe of the day, we got from the galliot a fmall quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine ; canvafs was the only thing we afked for, with which their fcanty ftore did not put it into their power to fupply us. We alfo received from her an hundred and forty fkins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds Englifh, after deducting five pounds for the weight of each bag. We had a conftant courfe of dry weather till this day, when there came on a heavy rain, accompanied with ftrong fqualls of wind, which obliged us to ftrike our yards and tdpmafts. The 1 2th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of reft ; but Sunday 12. the weather unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from it we wifhed, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and varieties on the coaft ; and taking other paftimc on more. The fame day, Enfign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretfk with the re- mainder of the foldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our conftant gueft during his flay. Indeed, we could not but confider him, on his father's account, as, in fon- 6 mcafure, belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of difcoverers, to a fhare in our affections. We had hitherto admitted the Serjeant to our tables, in confideration of his being Commander of the place ; and, moreover, becaufe he was a quick, fenfible man, and com- prehended better than any other the few Ruffian words we had learned. Enfign Synd had very politely fuffered him to enjoy the fame privileges during his ftay ; but, on the arrival of the new Commander from Okotzk, the Serjeant, for 29 + A VOYAGE TO 1779- for fome caufe or other, which we could not learn, fell into « ] ' difgrace, and was no longer fufTered to fit down in the com- pany of his own officers. It was in vain to think of mak- ing any attempt to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable to us, was doubtlefs in- . compatible with their discipline. Wcdflef.15. On Wednefday we had finifhed the flowage of the holds ; got on board all our wood and water ; and were ready to put to fea at a day's notice. It is however necefTary to obferve, that though every thing was in this degree of readinefs on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei ; and as frefh provifions were the mod important article of our wants, and in a great meafure necefTary for the health Of the men, we could not think of taking our departure with- out them. We therefore thought this a favourable oppor- tunity (efpecially as there was an appearance of fine wea- ther) of taking fome amufement on fhore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the country. Accordingly, Captain Gore propofed a party of bear-hunting, which we all very readily came into. Friday 17. We did not fet out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to give a day's reft to the Hofpodin Ivafkin, a new acquaintance, that was to be of our party, and who came down here on Wednefday. This gentleman, who, we un- dcrftood, ufually rcfidcs at Verchnei, had been defired by Major Behm to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter ; and the accounts we had heard of him, before his arrival, had excited in us a great cu- riofity to fee him. He is of a confidcrable family in RufTia. His father was a General in the Emprefs's fervicc ; and he himfelf, after having THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 295 having received his education partly in France, and partly I779- ° r J J f J September. in Germany, had been page to the Emprefs Elizabeth, and an Enfign in her guards. At the age of fixteen he was knowted, had his nofe flit, and was banifhcd firft to Siberia and afterward to Kamtfchatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a very tall thin man, with a face ""all over furrowed with deep wrinkles; and bore, in his whole figure, the mongeft marks of old age, though he had fcarcely reached his fifty-fourth year. To our very great difappointment, he had fo totally for- gotten both his German and French, as not to be able to fpeak a fentence, nor readily to underftand what was faid to him, in either of thefe languages. We found ourfelves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourfelves would have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information relative to this country. We had alfo promifed ourfelves much pleafure from the hiftory of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been induced to relate to (hangers, who might perhaps be of fome little fervice to him, but who could have no in- ducement to take advantage, from any thing he might fay, to do him an injury. No one here knew the caufe of his banifhment ; but they took it for granted, that it mufl have been for fomething very atrocious ; particularly, as two or three Commanders of Kamtfchatka have endeavoured to get him recalle ;, fmce the prefent Emprefs 's reign j but far from fucceedv-g in this, they have not been even able to get the place of nis banifhment changed. He told us, that, for twenty years, he had not tailed bread, nor had been allowed fubfiftence of any kind whatfoevcr; but that, during this period, he had lived among the Kafntfehadaies, on what his own activity and toil in the chace had f urniihed. That af- terward 2;6 A VOYAGE TO '779- terward he had a fmall pcnfion granted ; and that fincc ^cptcm rr.^ j^ajor gejim camc to the command, his fituation had been infinitely mended. The notice that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to become his gueft, had been the occafion of others following his ex- ample ; befides which, he had been the means of getting his penfion increafed to one hundred roubles a year; which is the common pay of an Enfign in all parts of the Em- prefs's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of all the officers is double. Major Behm told us, that he had obtained pcrmimon to take him toOkotzk, which was to be the place of his refidence in future ; but that he mould leave him behind for the prefent, on an idea, that; he might, on our return to the bay, be ufeful to us as an interpreter. Having given orders to the Firfl Lieutenants of both mips, to let the rigging have fuch a repair as the fupply of ftorcs, we had lately received, would permit, we fet out on our hunting party, under the direction of the corporal of the Kamtfchadales, intending, before we began to look for our game, to proceed llraight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on the Weft fide of the bay (which we had named after that officer, from its being a favourite place of his, and having been furveyed by himfclf), and is called by the natives Tareinfka. In our way toward this harbour, we met the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtfchadalc. lie had killed two feals upon a round ifland, that lies in the entrance of the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the South Weft, we now changed our route, by his THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 297 his advice; and, inftead of going up the harbour, directed s„17^ our courfe to the Northward, toward a pool of water that *. — ^— / lies near the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the bears. We had fcarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the Eaflward, and a fe- cond time deftroyed all hopes of coming up with our game ; for the Kamtfchadales allured us, that it was in vain to ex- pect to meet with bears, whilfl we were to the windward -, owing to their being po/Tefled of an uncommon acutenefs in fcenting their purfuers, which enabled them, under fuch circumftances, to avoid the danger, whilfl it is yet at a very great diftance. We returned therefore to the boat, and pafTed the night on the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpofe ; and the next day, by the advice of our Saturday 18. guides, crofled the bay, and went to the head of Rakoweena Harbour. Having here fecured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot, and, after a walk of five or fix miles, came to the fea-fide, a league to the Northward of the Light- houfc Head. From hence, as far as we could fee toward Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, there is a continued narrow border of low level ground adjoining to the fca, which is covered with heath, and produces gieat abundance of berries, par- ticularly thofe called partridge and crow berries. \Vc were told, we mould not fail to meet with a number of bears, feeding upon thefe berries ; but that the weather being ihowery, was unfavourable for us. Accordingly, we directed our courfe along this plain; and though we faw feveral bears at a diftance, we could never, with all our management, contrive to get within fliot of them. Our diverlion was therefore changed to fpearing of Vol. III. Q^q falmon, 2^8 AVOYAGETO »779; falmon, which we faw pufhing, in ercat numbers, through S'ptcmber. * ° ° ° »*— ^ — - the furf into a imall river. I could not help oblerving, how much inferior our Kamtfchadales were at this method of fifliing, to the people at Oonalafhka ; nor were their inftru- ments, although pointed with iron, near fo good for the purpofe, nor to be compared in neatnefs, to thofe of the Americans, though pointed only with bone. On inquiring into the reafon of this inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years amongft the Americans, that formerly the Kamtfchadales made ufe of the fame kind of darts and fpears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone, and were not lefs dexterous in the management of them than the latter. We could not underfland one ano- ther fufliciently for me to learn the caufe of this change ; probably it was one of the not unufual effects of a forced and imperfect ftate of improvement. It fell out very oppor- tunely, that the water afforded us a little prey ; for befides our ill fuccefs in the chace by land, we had alio been difap- pointed in our expectations of lliooting wild fowl, on a fupply of which we had in fome meafure depended for our fubfnlence ; and on its failure, began to think that we had been full long abfent from head-quarters. Our Kamtfchadales now difcovered, that the want of fuc- cefs, in not meeting with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the unavoidable noife that was the confequence of it. We therefore agreed to feparate ; Iva- ikin, the corporal, and myfclf, forming one party ; Captain Gore, and the reft of the company, the other. Accordingly, after paffing the night under our tent, wc Sunday 19. fet out on the morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round the country, and meet at Saint THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 299 Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I belonged, '77* r September. took the courle or the river, at the mouth of which we had fiihed for the falmon ; and, after being thoroughly foaked by the heavy rains that fell all the morning, we came about three in the afternoon to fome old balagans, where a Kamtf- chadale village had been formerly fituated, without meet- ing with a fingle bear during the whole of a long and tedi- ous walk. It was our firft intention to have remained here all night, in order to have refumed our chace early the next morning ; but the weather clearing, and at the fame time a frcfh breeze fpringing up from a quarter unfavourable to our dcfigns, the Hofpodin, whom former fuiferings had made very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who feemed, at prefent, more particularly diftrefled from having emptied his fnuff-box, began to be very importunate with us to return home. It was fome time before the old corporal confented, alleging, that we were at a great diftance from the harbour; and that, on account of the badnefs of the way, the night would probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length, however, he yielded to Ivaikin's intreaties, and conducted us along the fide of a number of fmall lakes, with which the flat part of this country feems much to abound. Thefc lakes are from half a mile to two miles in length, and about half a mile broad ; the water is frefli and clear, and they are full of a red coloured fifh, re- fcmbling, both in fhape and fize, a fmall falmon ; of which a more particular defcription will be given hereafter. The banks of thefe lakes were covered with the fragments of fifh that the bears had half eaten, and which caufed an in- tolerable flench. We often came upon the fpots which the bears had juft left, but were never able even to come within fight of them. Q^q 2 It 3oo AVOYAGETO »779- It was night before we reached the fliips, and we had September. . S—-V — ; then been twelve hours upon our legs. Poor Ivalkin found himfelf exceedingly tired and overcome with fatigue ; pro- bably, he was more fenfible of it, for want of a fupply of muff; for, every fie p he took, his hand dived mechanically into his pocket, and drew out his huge empty box. We had fcarcely got into the tent, when the weather fet in exceed- ingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourfelves, that wc had not flayed out another day, the Hofpodin's box was re- plenished, and we forgot the fatigues and ill fuccefs of our expedition over a good fupper. Monday 20. I was exceedingly forry, on being told the next day, that our friend the ferjeant had undergone corporal punifh- ment, during our abfence, by command of the old Put-pat- rcuchick. None of our people had been able to learn what was the caufe of his difpleafure ; but it was imagined to have arifen from fome little jealoufy fubfifting between them, on account of the civility which we had fliewn to the former. However, having every reafon to believe, that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for fo difgraceful a chaftifement, we could not help being both forry and much provoked at it, as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the intereft we were known to take in his affairs, made the affront in fome mealure pcrfonal to our- felves. For it has not yet been mentioned, that we had con- fulted with the late worthy Commander, Major Behm, who was alfo his friend, by what means wc might be mod likely to fuccccd in doing him fome fervice, for the good order he had kept in the ojlrog during our flay, and for his readinefs, on all occafions, to oblige us. The Major ad- vifed a letter of recommendation to the Governor General, which Captain Clerke had accordingly given him, and which, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3-T which, backed with his own reprefentadons, he had no !77o- doubt would get the ferjeant advanced a ftep higher in his «■ "P-e,'" "^ profeflion. We did not choofe to make any remonftrance on this fub- ject, till the arrival of Captain ShmalefF. Indeed our ina- bility, from the want of language, to enter into any difcuf- fion of the bufincfs, made it advifable to come to this de- termination. However, when the Put-parouckick paid us his next vifit, we could not help teflifying our chagrin, by re- ceiving him very coolly. The 22d, being the anniverfary of his Majefty's corona- wedr.cf. «r, tion, twenty-one guns were fired, and the handfomeft feaft our fituation would allow of was prepared, in honour of the day. As we were fitting down to dinner, the arrival of Captain ShmalefF was announced. This was a molt agree- able furprize ; in the firfl place, becaufe he arrived fo oppor- tunely to partake of the good fare and feftivity of the occa- lion; and, in the next, becaufe, in our lafl accounts of him, we were given to underftand, that the eiYecls of a fevere ill- nefs had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to find this had been merely an excufe ; that, in fact, he was afhamed of coming empty-handed, knowing we muft be in great want of tea, fugar, &c. &c. ; and that therefore he had deferred his fetting out, in daily expectation of the floop from Okotfk ; but having no tidings of her, and dread- ing left we mould fail, without his having paid us a vifit, he was determined to fet out, though with nothing better to prefent to us, than apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretfk. At the fame time, he acquainted us, that our not having received the fixteen head of black cattle, we had defired might be fent down, was owing to the very heavy rains ac f 302 A VOYAGE TO •779- at Verchnei, which had prevented their fetting our. We September. " \ „~ » made the bell anfwer we were able, to fo much poluencfs and generofity ; and the next day, on coming on board the Refolution, he was faluted with eleven guns. Speci- mens of all our curiofities were prefented to him ; and Captain Gore added to them a gold watch, and a fowling- piece. Saturday 25. The next day, he was entertained on board the Difcovery ; and on the 25th, he took leave of us to return to Bolcheretfk. He could not be prevailed on to lengthen his vifit, having fome expeditions, as he told us, that the Sub governor Ge- neral, who was at this time making a tour through all the provinces of the Governor General of Jakutfk, might arrive in the floop that was daily expected from Okotfk. Before his departure, and without any interference of ours, he re- inftated the Serjeant in the command of this place, having determined to take the Put-par oxichick along with him ; at the fame time, we undcrftood that he was highly difplcafcd with him, on account of the punifhment that had been inflicted on the Serjeant, and for which there did not appear to be the flighted grounds. Captain ShmalefF's great readinefs to give us every pof- fible proof of his defire to oblige us, encouraged us to afk a fmall favour, for another of our Kamtfchadale friends. It was to requite an old foldier, whofe houfe had been, at all times, open to the inferior officers, and who had done both them, and all the crew, a thoufand good offices. The Captain mod obligingly complied with our requeft, and dubbed him (which was all he wiflied for) a corporal, upon the fpot; and ordered him to thank the Englifh oflicers for his great promotion. It may not here be improper to ob- 3 fcrve, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 303 fervc, that, in the Ruffian army, the inferior clafs of officers „ !779- September. enjoy a degree of pre-eminence above the private men, with *— — » \ which we, in our fervice, are in a great meafure unac- quainted. It v as no fmall aftonifhment to us, to fee a Ser- jeant keep up all the ftate, and exact all the refpecl, from all beneath him, belonging to a field officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are many more gradations of rank amongft them, than are to be met with in other countries. Between a lerjeant and a private man, there are not lefs than four intermediate fteps ; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages arifing from this fyftem are found to be very confiderable. The falutary effects of little fubordinate ranks in our fea-fervice, cannot be queftioned. It gives rife to great emulation, and the fuperior officers are enabled to beftow, on almofl every poffible degree of merit, a reward proportioned to it. Having been incidentally led into this fubject, I mail beg; leave to add but one obfcrvation more, namely, that the dis- cipline of the Ruffian army, though at this diflance from the feat of government, is of the ftricteft and fevered kind ; from which even the commiffioned officers are not exempt. The punifliment of the latter for fmall offences is imprifon- ment, and a bread and water diet. An Enfign, a good friend of ours at this place, told us, that for having been con- cerned in a drunken riot, he was confined in the black hole for three months, and fed upon bread and water » which, he faid, fo mattered his nerves, that he had never fince had fpirits for a common convivial meeting. I accompanied Captain Shmalcffto the entrance of Awat- fka River, and, having bid him farewel, took this opportu- nity of paying a vifit to the Pricfl of Paratounca. On Sunday the 304 AVOYAGETO 1779- the 26th, I attended him to church. The congregation con- Septcmbcr. Med of his own family, three Kamtfchadale men, and three boys, who a Hilled in finging part of the fervice ; the whole of which was performed in a very folcmn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the heft building cither in this town, or in that of St. Peter and St. Paul. It is ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pic- tures of St. Peter and St. Paul, prefented by Beering ; and which, in the real lichnefs of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the fir ft of our European performances ; for all the principal parts of it are made of thick plates of folid filver, faftened to the canvafs, and fafhioned into the various foldings of the robes with which the figures were clothed. Ifoada? 27. The next day, I fet on foot another hunting party, and put myfelf under the direction of the Clerk of the parifli, who was a celebrated bear-hunter. VVe arrived, by fun-fet, at the fide of one of the larger lakes. The next ftep was to conceal ourfelves as much as pofhble ; and this we were able to do very effe (flu ally, among fome long gral's and brufh- wood, that grew clofe to the water's edge. We had not lain long in ambufh, before we had the plcifure to hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us ; and our expectations were foon gratified, by the fight of one of them in the water, which feemed to be fwimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The moon, at this time, gave a confiderable light ; and when the animal had ad- vanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the fame time. The beaft immediately turned iliort on one fide, and fct up a noife, which could not pro- perly be called roaring, nor growling, nor yelling, but was a mixture 3^5 September. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond defcription. Wc '779 plainly faw that it was feverely wounded, and that with dif- ficulty it gained the bank, and retreated to fome thick bufhes at a little diftance. It ftill continued to make the fame loud and terrible noife ; and though the Kamtfchadales were perfuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no farther, yet they thought it moft advifeable not to roufe it again for the prefent. It was, at this time, pall nine o'clock; and the night becoming overcaft, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it moft prudent to return home, and defer the gratification of our curioftty till morn- ing, when we returned to the fpot, and found the bear dead in the place to which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common fize. As the account of our firft hunting party will be apt to give the reader a wrong idea of the method in which this iport is ufually conducted ; it may not be amifs to add a few more words on the fubject; and which I am the better able to do fince this lafl expedition. When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they contrive to reach about fun-fet, the firft ftep is to look for their tracks, to examine which are the frehheft, and the beft fituatcd with a view to concealment, and taking aim at the bead, either as he is palling by, or advancing in front, or going from them. Thefe tracks are found in the greateft numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, and among the long fedgy grafs and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of ambufcade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to reft, pointing them in the direction they mean to make their Vol. III. II r fhot, 3o6 A V O Y A G E T O '779- mot. This done, they kneel or lie clown, as the circum- ^epten^e^ fiances of the cover require ; and, with their bear-fpears by their fide, wait for their game. Thefe precautions, which are chiefly taken, in order to make fure of their mark, are, on feveral accounts, highly expedient. For, in the firft place, ammunition is fo dear at Kamtfchatka, that the price of a bear will not purchafe more of it than is fumcient to load a mufket four or five times; and, what is more mate- rial, if the bear be not rendered incapable of purfuit by the firft fhot, the confequences are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the noife and fmoke ifTue, and attacks his adverfaries with great fury. It is im- poffible for them to reload, as the animal is feldom at more than twelve or fifteen yards diftance, when he is fired at : fo that, if he does not fall, they immediately put themfelves in a poflure to receive him upon their fpears ; and their fafety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal flab, as he firft comes upon them. If he parries the thruft (which, by the extraordinary ftrength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to do), and thereby breaks in upon his adverfaries, the conflict becomes very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone fuflice to pay the forfeit. There arc two feafons of the year when this diverfion, or occupation, as it may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous: in the fpring, when the bears firft come forth, after having fubfifled, as is univerfally afTcrted here, on fucking their paws through the winter; and efpccially if the froft happen to be fevere, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake at that time, by which means they are de- prived of their ordinary and expected food. Under thefe drcumflanccs, they foon become exceedingly famiflicd, and 4 fierce THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 07 fierce and favage in proportion. They will purfue the na- '779- tives by the fcent ; and, as they now prowl about out of J!!^L!i their ufual tracks, frequently come upon them unawares ; and when this happens, as the Kamtfchadales have not the finallefl notion of mooting flying, nor even at an animal running, or in any way except with their piece on a reft, the bear-hunters often fall a facrifice to their hunger. The other feafon in which it is dangerous to come in their way. is at the time of their copulation, which is generally about this time of the year. An extraordinary inftance of natural affection in thefe animals hath been already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a fimilar nature, and not lefs affecting; many of which were related to me. The Kamtfchadales derive great advantage in hunting, from this circumftancc. They never venture to fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near : for, if the cub drop, fhe becomes enraged to a degree little fhort of madnefs ; and if fhe get fight of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if the dam be fliot, the cubs will not leave her fide, even af- ter fhe has been dead a long time ; but continue about her, mewing, by a variety of affecting actions and geflures, marks of the deepefl affliction, and thus become an cafy prey to the hunters. Nor is the fagacity of the bears, if the Kamtfchadales are to be credited, lefs extraordinary, or lefs worthy to be re- marked, than their natural affection. Of this they have a thoufand flories to relate. I fhall content myfelf with men- tioning one inftance, which the natives fpeak of as a well- known fact ; and that is, the ftratagem they have recourfe to, in order to catch the barcins, which are confiderably R r 2 too 3o8 A VOYAGE TO >779- too fwift of foot for them. Thefe animals keep together in eptem er.^ ^ge herds ; they frequent mofily the low grounds, and love to browfe at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them by fcent, till he come in fight ; when he advances warily, keeping above them, and concealing him- felf amongft the rocks, as he makes his approaches, till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his pur- pofe. He then begins to pufli down, with his paws, pieces of the rock amongft the herd below. This manoeuvre is not followed by any attempt to purfue, until he find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a courfe immediately enfues, that proves fuccefsful, or otherwife, according to the hurt the barcin has received. I cannot conclude this digreflion, without obferving, that the Kamtfchadales very thankfully acknowledge their obli- gations to the bears for what little advancement they have hitherto made, either in the fciences or polite arts. They confefs that they owe to them all their fkill both in phyfic and furgery ; that by remarking with what herbs thefe ani- mals rub the wounds they have received, and what they have recourfe to when fick and languid, they have become acquainted with moft of the fimplcs in ufe among them, either in the way of internal medicine, or external applica- tion. But what will appear fomevvhat more fingular, is, they acknowledge the bears likewifc for their dancing mailers. Indeed, the evidence of one's fenfes puts this out of difpute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtfchadales is an cxaft counterpart of every attitude and geiUire peculiar to this animal, through its various functions ; and this is the foundation and ground-work of all their other dances, and what they value thcmfclves moft upon. i I re- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3°9 I returned to the fhips on the 28th, very well pleafed with 1779- my excurfion, as it had afforded me an opportunity of fee- * -.- -*• ing a little more of the country, and of obferving the man- ners and behaviour of the Kamtfchadales, when freed from that conftraint, which they evidently lie under in the com- pany of the Ruffians. No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, Th»rfday3o. when Captain Gore went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an efcutcheon, prepared by Mr. Webber, with an infcription upon it, fetting forth Captain Clerke's age and rank, and the object, of the expedition in which he was en- gaged at the time of his deceafe. We alfo affixed to the tree, under which he was buried, a board, with an infcription upon it to the fame effect. Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the fhips out of the harbour into the bay, to be in readi- nefs to fail. We were prevented from doing this, by a vio- lent gale of wind, which lafled the whole day of the firft of oaober. October. However, on the 2d, both fhips warped out of su^»ya the harbour, clear of the narrow paflage, and came to anchor in feven fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the oflrog. The day before we went out of the harbour, the cattle arrived from Verchnei ; and that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and much-longed-for fupply, by confuming it ftrefb, Captain Gore came to a determination of flaying five or fix days longer. Nor was this time idly em- ployed. The boats, pumps, fails, and rigging, of both fhips, thereby received an additional repair. And Captain Gore, fparing me fome molofTes, and the ufe of the Refolu- tion's copper, I was enabled to brew a fortnight'? beer for the 3io A VOYAGE TO Ottoler. the crew, and to make a farther provifion of ten puncheons of ftrong fpruce cflence. The prefent fupply was the more acceptable, as our lafl calk of fpirits, except a fmall quan- tity left in rclerve for cafes of ncceflity, "was now fcrving our. ^un in ten fathoms ; the oftrog bearing due North, half a league diftant. The weather being foggy, and the wind from the fame quarter during the forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our Saturday 9. ftation. At four in the afternoon, we again unmoored; but whilft we were, with great difficulty, weighing our laft an- chpr, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat, which had juft returned from the village, and that he was laft feen with a Kamtfchadale woman, to whom his mefTmates knew he had been much attached, and who had ofren been obferved perfuading him to ftay behind. Though this man had been long ufelefs to us, from a fwelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he mould be left behind, to become a miferable burthen, both to the Ruffians and him- felf. I therefore got the ferjeant to fend parties of foldiers, in different directions, in fearch of him, whilft fome of our failors went to a well known haunt of his in the neighbour- hood, where they found him with his woman. On the re- turn of this party, with our deferter, we weighed, and fol- lowed the R.efolution out of the bay. Having at length taken our leave of St. Peter and St. Paul, I fhall conclude this chapter with a particular defcription of Awatfka bay, and the coaft adjoining; not only becaufe (its- three inlets included) it conftitutes perhaps the mod extcn- five, and fafeft, harbour that has yet been discovered ; but becaufe it is the only port in this part of the world, capable of admitting mips of any confulerable burthen. The term Bay, indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly fpeaking, to A VOYAGE TO k to a place Co well flickered as Awatfka ; but then it mud be obferved, that from the loofe, undiftinguifhing manner, in which navigators have denominated certain fituations of fea and land, with refpect to each other, bays, roads, founds, har- bours, Sec. we have no defined and determinate ideas affixed to thefe words, fufheient to warrant us in chang- ing a popular name, for one that may appear more proper. The entrance into this bay, is in 52" 51' North latitude, and 1580 48' Eaft longitude, and lies in the bight of another cxteriour bay, formed by Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, to the North, and Cape Gavareea to the South. The former of thefe head- lands bears from the latter North Eaft by North, three quar- ters Eaft, and is diftant thirty- two leagues. The coaft, from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatfka Bay, takes a di- rection nearly North, and is eleven leagues in extent. It confifts of a chain of high, ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently lying off them. This coaft, at a diftance, prefents, in many parts, an appearance of bays or inlets, but on a nearer approach, the head lands were found connected by low ground. Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bears from the entrance of the bay, Eaft North Eaft a quarter Eaft, and is feventeen leagues dif- tant. On this fide, the fhore is low and flat, with hills riling behind, to a confiderabie height. In the latitude of Cane Gavareea, there is an error or twenty-one miles in the Ruffian charts; its true latitude being 520 21'. litis ftriking difference of the land on each fide Awatfka Bay, with their different bearings, are the heft guides ro fleer for it, in coming from the Southward: and, in ap- proaching it from the Northward, Cheepoonfkoi Nofs will make 1VA-.J- - * Confl ;y /i-iwr.V'-ZLirA'.i ■r .l'f.i "am n.,v ../-„. ,/„ i.jrht -Hbufe ,.„ Nbrth n. j.i i.,. .* i !.s .(,,/.„,, .,„„■■.., T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 3* ols make itfelf very confpicuous ; for it is a high projecting qUI'^ head-land, with a confiderable extent of level ground, lower ' * than the Nofs, uniting it to the continent. It prefents the fame appearance, whether viewed from the North or South, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived, in imagin- ing Awatfka Bay to lie in the bight, which the coaft forms to the Northward of this Nofs; and which might be the cafe, from the ftriking refemblance there is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the South of Awatfka Bay. I have been thus particular, in giving a minute defcrip- tion of this coaft, from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furniflied with a tolerable account of the form of the coaft, on each fide of Awatfka Bay, we mould, on our firft arrival upon it, have got fafely within the bay two days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the ftormy weather, which came on when we were plying off the mouth of the harbour. Befides, from the prevalence of fogs, in thefe feas, it muft frequently happen, that an obfervation for afcertaining the latitude cannot be got ; to which we may add, that the deceptive appear- ances land makes, when covered with fnow, and when viewed through an hazy atmofphere, both which circum- ftances prevail here, during the greateft part of the year, render the knowledge of a variety of difcriminating objects the more neceflary. Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the mountains on the coaft in its neighbourhood, thefe will ferve to point out the fituation of Awatfka Bay, with a great deal of precifion. For to the South of it are two high mountains j that which is ncareft the bay, is Vol. III. S f fhaped ^ I A A VOYAGE TO '779- fhaped like a fugar-loaf ; the other, which is farther inland,. October. does not appear fo high, and is flat at the top. To the North of the bay, are three very confpicuous mountains ; the Weilemmoft is, to appearance, the highcfl ; the next is the volcano mountain, which may be known from the fmoke that ifTues from its top, and likewifc from fome high table- hills connected with it, and ftretching to the Northward : thefe two arc fome what peaked. The third, and the mod Northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a clufter of mountains, as it prefents to the fight feveral flat tops. When the navigator has got within the Capes, and into the outward bay, a perpendicular headland, with a light- houfe erected upon it, will point out the entrance of the.bay of Awatfka to the Northward. To the Eaflward of this head-land lie many funken rocks, ftretching into the fea, to the diftance of two or three miles ; and which will fhew themfclves, if there be but a moderate fea or fwell. Four miles to the South of the entrance lies a fmall round ifland, very diftinguifhable from being principally compofed of high pointed rocks, with one of them ftrikingly remark- able, as being much larger, more peaked and perpendicular, than the reft. It is no way necefTary to be equally particular in the de- fcription of the bay itfelf, as of its approaches and environs ; fince no words can give the mariner fo perfect an idea of it, as the annexed plan. From this it will appear, that the entrance is at firft near three miles wide, and in the narrow- eft part one mile and a half, and four miles long, in a North North Weft direction. Within the mouth is a noble bafon of twenty-five miles circuit, with the capacious har- bours of Tarcinfka to the Weft, of Rakoweena to the Eafia THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 315 Eaft, and the fmall one of St. Peter and St. Paul, where we '""?• Oaober. lay, to the North. Tarcinfka harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length ; it ftretches to the Eaft South Eaft, and is feparated from the fea, at the bottom, by a narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from rocks or fhoals. We had never lefs than feven fathoms water, as far as our furvey extended ; for we were not able to get to the bottom of the harbour on account of the ice. The harbour of Rakoweena would deferve the preference over the other two, if its entrance were not impeded by a flioal lying in the middle of the channel ; which, in general, will make it necefTary to warp in, unlefs there be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in width, and three miles long, running at firft in a South Eaft, and after- ward in an Eafterly direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathomc. St. Peter and St. Paul's is one of the moft convenient little harbours I ever faw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen Ihips, moored head and ftern ; and is fit forgiving them any kind of repairs. The South fide is formed by a low fandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the cjlrcg is built ; and whofe point may almoft be touched by mips going in ; having three fathoms water clofe in with it. In the mid channel, which -is no more than two hundred and feventy- eight feet acrofs, there is fix fathoms and a half ; the deepeft water within is feven fathoms ; and in every part over a muddy bottom. We found fome inconvenience from the toughnefs of the ground, which conftantly broke the meftenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble in getting up S f 2 the 16 AVOYAGETO '"9- the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour. The plan will likewife point out the fhoal that is to be avoided, lying off the Eaflern harbour, as well as the fpit within the entrance, flretching from the South Well more ; and over which there is only three fathoms water. In or- der to fleer clear of the latter, a fmall ifland, or perhaps it may rather be called a large detached rock, lying on the Weft fhore of the entrance, is to be fhut in with the land to the South of it j and, to fleer clear of the former, the Three Needle Rocks, which lie on the Eafl fhore of the entrance near the light-houfe head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff-heads) that rife to the Northward of the firfl fmall bay, or bending, obfervable on the Eafl fide of the entrance. When arrived to the North of the North head-land of the Eaflern harbour, the fhoal is pad. In failing into the harbour of St. Peter and Sr. Paul, and approaching the village, it is necefTary to keep in clofe to the Eaflern fhore, in order to avoid a fpit, which runs from the head-land to the South Weft of the town. Before I proceed to give a table of the refult of our agrono- mical obfervations at this place.it may be proper to acquaint the Reader, that the time-keeper we had on board the Refolu- tion, which was an exact copy of that invented by Mr. Har- rifon, and executed by Mr. Kendal, flopped on the 27th of April, a few days before we firfl came into Awatfka Bay. It had been always kept with the mofl fcrupulous care dur- 5 the voyage, having never been trufled for a moment into any other hands than thofc of Captain Cook and mine. No accident could, therefore, have happened to it, to which we could attribute its flopping; nor could it have arifen 1 from THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 317 from the effects of intenfe cold, as the thermometer was "Vt?- Odlobcr. very little below the freezing point. As foon as the difco- very was made, I confulted with Captain Clerk, what courfe it was belt to purfue; whether to let it remain as it was, intirely ufelefs to us, for the purpofe of fads tying the cu- rious at home, where it was fure of being examined by proper judges, or fuffer it to be infpected by a feaman on board, who had ferved a regular apprenticefhip to a watch- maker in London ; and appeared fufficiently knowing in the bufinefs, from his fuccefs in cleaning and repairing feveral watches fince we had been out. The advantages we had derived from its accuracy made us extremely unwilling to be deprived of its ufe during the remaining part of the voyage ; and that object appeared to us of much greater importance than the fmall degree of probability, which We underftood was all that could be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge reflecting its mechanifm, by deferring the infpection of it. At the fame time, it mould be remem- bered, that the watch had already had a fufficient trial, both in the former voyage, and during the three years we had now had it on board, to afcertain its utility. On thefc con- fiderations, we took the opportunity of the firfl clear day, after our arrival in Awatfka Bay, of opening the watch, which was done in the Captain's cabin, and in our prefence. The watchmaker found no part of the work broken ; but, not being able to fet it a-going, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, and cleaned both the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the reft of the work rather dirty ; he alfo took off the dial-plate ; and, between two teeth of the wheel that carries the fecond-hand, found a piece of dirt which he imagined to be the principal caufe of irs flop- ping. Having afterward put the work together, and oiled it 3*8 A VOYAGE TO 1779- it as fpanngly as pomble, the watch appeared to go free October. , ii '■ ' and well. Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretfk, the time-keeper was left in the care of Mr. Bayly to com- pare it with his watch and clock, in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for fome days with tolerable regularity, lofing only from fifteen to feventeen feconds a-day, when it flopped a fecond time. It was again opened, and the caufe of its flopping appeared to be owing to the man having put fome part of the work badly toge- ther when he firft opened it. Being again adjufted, it was found to gain above a minute a day ; and, in the attempt to alter the regulator and balance-fpring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new fpring ; but the watch now went fo irregularly, that we made no farther ufe of it. The poor fellow was not lefs chagrined than we were, at our bad fuccefs ; which, however, I am convinced was more owing to the miferable tools he was obliged to work with, and the ftifFnefs his hands had contracted from his ordinary occupation, than to his want of fkill. For the fatisfaction of thofe who may wifli to have a general view of its rate of going, I have added the follow- ing table. The firfl: and fecond columns contain the dates when, and the names of the places where, its rate was obferved. The third column contains the daily error of its rate, fo found from mean lime. The fourth column has the lon- gitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate > that is, calculated on a fuppofition that r he time-keeper had not varied its rate from the time it left Greenwich. But as wc had frequent opportunities of ascertaining the variation of 2 its THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 3■ 1 ° 0 « Ijr, IJ-, -. ^(N, O >-n 00 Barometer, 1 « ^ •* „ X 1 1 O O O O O O On CT\ O O ON .1 1 1 «•» to nm«1MN N r*-j m g el i en to ^J- «"> O 0 N O «\o O R o . E S •3^ m -X VD to r-* is^so t^ i^ t^ rf en t--. ■*■ to «^ O l*-i O O N in i>. OO • c o H u CO «^ 00 t-v» Q\ ON On no m OO » 1 "V J n 1 Cs OO t^ tJ-nO 00 i-i O *n r^- ^4- 4-J X « N -* N M M M 3 •* M — o n — O •n^ rn fn t— c J o VO 0O sC H*0 O O OO O ^ m to J^ \r\ ONO 00 O ■**- Lrt O vo X ! a" .5 S - O N ^*o « o o - N u 5 u a" O O O 0 o o o o o o o o c Wi «* 4-^. u-OC O 0 0 M L^ oo •»- ** to WN - t ■* ■<- m rj- +rf s to O — -* M NO N O CO 00 N vo 13 X e ° to *• N -^ N en W CO » O O « - 0 O 0 o 0 0 O O O ,0 + -). + + 1 + 1 + 1 1 1 m •*■ N u-\ — t^ r-- O c o X 1 Q o 5 o « N MlANX ** o to Ij-»^ "• X 00 •• 00 O 1 5 1*1 to 00 OO +>*-*0\0 — — O O d ■ a b P * o Tt- ^"^(ni^^ui ONVO o 0\ x> J3 X* o O O O O 0 0 O O O O O CO i to C\ 00 O NMCC N 1^. u-> u-t ^- *"• N ■ Ml^N W N u-\ m g: f— 4 •a c . 3 O V * to H N tN- ^-00 N rs. m n ts. N > 3 O u < a. o 9 + H « o o - - - N t*. in o ->. g u M D 5 o •*> w 00 00 OO 00 rf- N 00 o O vo In . 5b ** «*1 ■-. -. « N N N N s > 3 ™ 0 *o to ii M UN N »«0 N « rn 0 en O 3 0 O oo ^h UMA'f O000O *n *n -*" ■"■ t^. OQ OO 00 — o O m On O m "-* - - - N M N M — M M Ui >. w O 0 0 U"» lt, f*N O 00 rf- N O tn M O it •s 5 to N ** + N C* en N >■ 5nj 0 <0 ^*- f^i N *^> on O *n NO « rs O 'ofl 5 1 N u-» m — »^rr, unN in w m n •X3 1 B ° 1 0 co ^ vo O -+o OO 00 m "■> - rs OO 00 00 — o O m ON c — - ~ - N N N M — m — rt ST* I 1 « 4— < rt ■*■§ * o o o VO 00 O VO N •*- in in in 0 >■ 2 g J - 0 vo i^ *n:« oo -^ t*- n en ftf ti> ti N N ■*■ ^ « ^« rn tJ- en S° O co u-» vo vo m — O On m r^. CJ »J ■4 tN. 00 OO 00 -« — o *n On — is. 4—i M "■ « - N M '1 rj — M M 1 >~ 1 1 - -o - N TOO "t" O N O -*■- ° !>. «! M N C7\ IMft N W if, LO O 3" M 1 1 1 0 0 « - N « + 1 1 M 1 r^oo I | On w O, . o 1 H^ CtT J 1 ^ i -3 "2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 rt ■ 13 _* I < h —J ' o 2 g § L) o ■« c „«> N £ 'u > o , rt rt O J -±i J4 -Q D c o rl ^ c: o o « •- t; rt 1 TJ o o « c «v> rt c = S rt n « ■s.«£ s a Ocg a. - rt ^ oo OJ t# OJ rt rs & -z rt u c c O 2 3 ^3 ° P - -. t^ . VO ■<*- N « vri - N r-N - oc - - OS . s N«l J f*« ■ >, u x »: ■ -■ f* — . tv •~* t^ c ctJ f--o « c — S.c5 > r^ "£ 779- North to South, dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from. October. , r • , i--^i whence a great number or rivers take their rife, and empty themfelves, on each fide, into the Pacific Ocean and the fea of Okotfk. There arc three rivers of much greater magnitude than the reft ; the Bolchoircka, or great river, fo called from bol- xboia, which fignifies great, and reka, a river; the river Kamtfchatka, and the Awatfka. The firft empties itfelf into the fea of Okotfk, and is navigable, for the Ruffian gal- liots, upward of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of Bolcheretfk, a town fituated at the conflux of the . Goltfoffka and the Biftraia, which here lofe themfelves in the Bolchoireka. The Biftraia itfelf is no inconfiderable river. It derives its fource from the fame mountain with the river Kamtfchatka, and, by taking a direct, contrary courfe, affords the Kamtfchadales the means of tranfport- ing their goods by water, in fmall canoes, almoft acrofs the whole peninfula. The river Kamtfchatka, after maintain- ing a courfe of near three hundred miles from South to North, winds round to the Eaftward, in which direction it empties itfelf into the ocean, a little to the Southward of Kamtfchatkoi Nofs. Near the mouth of the Kamtfchatka, to the North Weft, lies the great lake called Nerpitfch, from vcrpi, a Kamtfchadale word fignifying a feal, with which this lake abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the lake, is a fort called Niflinci Kamtfchatlka ojlrog, where the Ruffians have built an hofpiul and barracks, and which, we were informed, is become the principal mart in this country. The river Awatfka arifes from the mountains fituated be- tween the Bolchoircka and the Biftraia, and running, from 2 North THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 327 North Weft to -South Eaft, a courfe of one hundred miles, '""?• October. falls into the bay of Awatfka. The Tigil is likewife a river ■ — ^- — > of considerable fize. rifing amidfl fome very high moun- tains, which lie under the fame parallel with Kamtfchatkoi Nofs, and running, in an even courfe from South Eaft to North Weft, falls into the fea of Okotfk. All the other rivers of this peninfula, which are almoft infinite in num- ber, are too fmall to deferve a particular enumeration. If I may judge of the foil, from what I faw of its vege- table productions, I mould not hefitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traverfed on my journey to Bol- cheretfk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with the fmalleft fpot of ground that refcmbled what in England is called a good green turf; or that feemed as if it could be turned to any advantage, either in the way of pafturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of the country in general was thinly covered with ftunted trees, having a bottom of mofs, mixed with low weak heath. The whole bore a more ftriking refemblance to Newfound- land, than to any other part of the world I had ever fecn. It muft however be obferved, that I faw at Paratounca three or four ftacks of fweet and very fine looking hay ; and Major Behm informed me, that many parts of the pen- infula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtfchatka and the Biftraia, produce grafs of great height and ftrengrh, which they cut twice in the fummer ; and that the hay is of a fucculent quality, and particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it mould appear, from the fize and fatnefs of the thirty-fix head that were fent down to us, from the Verchnei ojlrog, and which, we were told, were bred 328 AVOYAGETO 1779- bred and fattened in the neighbourhood, that they mud ■ have had the advantage of both good paftures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the firft iupply we received, confuting of twenty, came to us juft at the clofe of the win- ter, and before the fnow was off the ground, and therefore probably had tailed nothing but hay for the feven preceding months. And this agrees with what is related by Krafcheni- nicofT, that there is no part of the country equal in fertility to that which borders on the River Kamtichatka ; and that to the North and South it is much inferior both in point of foil and climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the culture of oats, barley, and rye, in dif- ferent quarters near this river, which have generally fuc- ceeded ; that, in particular, fome perfons belonging to the convent of Jakutfk, who had fettled in that part of the country, had town barley there, which had yielded an ex- traordinary incrcafe; and he has no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the fource of the Biftraia and Kamtfchatka, would grow as well as in the generality of countries fituated in the fame latitude. Perhaps the fuperior fertility of the country here fpoken of may, in a great mea- fure, be accounted for, from its lying in that part of the penin- fula, which is by much the wideft, and confequently fanned removed from the fea, on each fide. The moill chilling fogs, and drizzling weather, which prevail almoit perpetually along the coaft, mud neceflarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all the purpofes of agriculture. It is natural to fuppofe, that the feverity of the climate mull be in due proportion to the general llcriliiy of the foil, of which it is probably the came. The fir it time we faw this country was in the beginning of May, 1779, when the whole 1 ace of it was covered with mow, from fix to eight feet deep. On T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 3:9 On the 6th, we had fnow, with the wind from the North ' October. Eaft. On the 8th of May, at noon, the thermometer Hood at 32'; and, the fame day, fome of our men were fent on fhore to try to cut wood ; but the fnow was flill fo deep on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitlefs. Nor was it found practicable to proceed in riiis neceffary bufinefs, with all the efforts of a very (lout party, till the 12th, at which time, the thaw began to advance gradually. The [ides of the hills were now in fome places free from fnow ; and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands. On the 15th of June, the day we failed out of the harbour, the thermometer had never riicn higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 300 04'. The winds blew almoft invariably from the Eaftward during our Hay, and the South Eaft was more prevalent than any other. On our return, the 24th of Auguft, the foliage of the trees, and all other forts of vegetation, feemed to be in the utmofl ftate of perfection. For the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very changeable, but in no refpect fevere. The winds, at the beginning of the month, were, for the moft part, Eafterly, after which they got round to the Weft. The greateft height of the thermometer was 650, the loweft 400. The barometer's greateft height 30°; its loweft 290 3'. So that, upon the whole, during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature pre- vailed. But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered with new-fallen fnow, the wind continuing Wefterly. In computing the feafons, the fpring ought certainly not to be taken into the account. From the middle of June, to the middle of September, may be properly faid to conftitute Vol. III. U u the 33° A VOYAGE TO i?;> the fummcr, October may be confidered as an autumnal month, from thence, till the middle of June, it is perfect winter. It was toward the end of May that we made our journey, between Bolcheretfk and Awatfka, over the fnow in Hedges. It is faid that the climate, in the country adjoining to the river Kamtfchatka, is not lefs ferene and temperate, than in many parts of Siberia that are under the fame latitude. This variation is probably owing to the fame caufes, to which the fuperior fertility of the foil in thofe parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the fterility of the ground alone that the Kamtfchadales feel the unfavourable tempera- ture of their climate. The uncertainty of the fummer fea- fon fometimes prevents their laying up a fufficient flock of dried fifh for their winter's provision, and the moifture of the air caufes worms to breed in them, which not unfre- quently deftroy the greateft part. I do not remember that we had either thunder or light- ning during our flay, excepting on the night of the eruption of the 'volcano ; and, from the account of the inhabitants, they are very feldom troubled with dorms of this kind, and never but in a flight degree. The general feverity of the winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and fnow that feafon brings along with it, cannot be queflioned, from the fubterraneous habitations the natives are under a necef- fity of retiring to, for warmth and fecurity. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the winter of 1779 was fuch, that, for feveral weeks, all intercourfe between the inhabitants was intircly (topped* every one being afraid to ftir even from one houie 10 another, for fear of being frofl-bitten. This extraordinary rigour of climate, in fo low a la- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 331 a latitude, may be accounted for, from its being fituated to ■779- ° October. the Eaft of an immenfe uncultivated tract of country, and from the prevalence of the Wefterly winds, blowing over fo extenfive and cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuofity of the winds, is attributed to the fubterra- neous fires, the fulphureous exhalations, and the general volcanic difpofition of the country. This peninfula abounds in vo/canos, of which only three have, for fome time paft, been fubject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is fituated in the neigh- bourhood of Awatfka. Befides this, there are others not lefs remarkable, according to the account given of them by KrafcheninicofF. The volcano of Tolbatchick is fituated on a neck of ground between the River of Kamtfchatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the fummit of which the eruptions pro- ceed, is of a confiderable height, and terminates in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there ifiued from it a whirlwind of flames, which reduced to aibes the forefts of the neighbouring mountains. This was fucceeded by a cloud of fmoke, which fpread over, and darkened the whole country, till it was diflipated by a mower of cinders, that covered the ground to the diftance of thirty miles. Mr. KrafcheninicofF, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the Kamtfchatka cjlrog, at no great diftance from the mountain, relates, that the eruption was preceded by an alarming found in the woods, which he thought the forerunner of fome dreadful florm or hurricane, till three fhocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval each, convinced him of its real caufe ; but that he was hin- dered from approaching nearer the mountain, by the cin- U u 2 ders 332 A VOYAGE TO '779- ders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on his « „ < journey. The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamt- fchatka, which is mentioned as by far the higheft in the peninfula. A thick fmoke never ceafes to afcend from its fummit, and it has frequent eruptions, of the molt violent and dreadful kind, fome of which were much talked of, and feemed to be frefli in the memories of the Kamtfchadales. The country is likewife faid to contain numerous fprings of hot water. The only one that I had an opportunity of feeing was at Natchikin ojlrog., and hath been already de- fcribed. Krafcheninicoff makes mention of feveral Others, and alfo of two very extraordinary pits or wells, at the bot- tom of which the water is feen to boil as in a caldron, with prodigious force and impetuolity; at the fame time a dread- ful noife ilTues out of them, and fo thick a vapour, that a man cannot be feen through it. Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they (lain their leather), many fpecics of the willow, but all fmall ; and two forts of dwarfifh pines or cedars *. One of thefe grows upon the coaft, creeping along the ground, and teldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this fort we mule our elTence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpofc. The other grows on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a fmall nut or apple. We were told by the old Toio/i at St. Peter and St. Paul, that Bccring, during * Krafcheninicoff fay?, that the tree here fpok.cn of, is a dwarf cedar, for that there is ru>t a pine in the peninfula. i the T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 333 the time he lay in that harbour, firft taught them the ufe of 1779- the decoction of thefe pines, and that it had proved a moil excellent remedy for the fcurvy ; but, whether from the great fcarcity of fugar, or from what other caufe, we could not learn, we were forry to find, that it was no longer in ufe amongft them. The birch was by far the mod common tree we faw ; and of this we remarked three forts. Two of them fit for tim- ber, and differing only in the texture and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfifh kind. This tree is applied to a great variety of ufes by the inhabitants. The liquor which, on tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any preparation, as we had frequent opportuni- ties of obferving, upon our journey to Bolcheretfk ; and found it, ourfelves, pleafant and refrefhing, but fomewhat purgative. The bark they convert into vefTels, for almofl: all their domeftic and kitchen purpofes; and it is of the wood of this tree the fledges and canoes are alfo made *. The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbour- hood of the bay, were fmall and ftunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the country, for wood of a proper fize to work into canoes, for the principal timbers of their balagans, and the like ufes. Befides the trees above mentioned, KrafcheninicofF relates,, that the larch grows on the banks of the River Kamtf- chatka, and of thofe that fall into it, but nowhere elfe; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the River Bere- * KrafcheninicofF fays, that the natives likewife convert the bark into a pleafant wholefome food, byftripping it off whilft it is young and green, and cutting it into long narrow ftripes, like vermicelli, drying it, and frcwing it afterward along with their caviar* z.owa j Odober. 334 AVOYAGETO '779- zovva ; that there is likewife the fervice-tree (padus foliis an- nuls) ; and two fpecies of the white- thorn, one bearing a red, the other a black berry. Of the fhrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-afh, wild rofe-trees, and rafberry-bufhes, the country produces great abundance ; together with a variety of berries ; blue-berries of two forts, round and oval; partridge-ben ies; cran berries; crow-berries, and black-berries. Thefc the natives gather at proper feafons, and preferve, by boiling them into a thick jam, without fugar. They make no inconfiderable part of their winter proviiions, and are ufed as fauce to their dried and fait fifh ; of which kind of food they are unquelhon- ably excellent correctives. They likewife eat them by them- felves, in puddings, and various other ways, and make de- coctions of them for their ordinary liquor. We met with feveral wholefome vegetables in a wild ftate, and in great quantities, fucli as wild celery, angelica, cher- vil, garlic, and onions. Upon fome few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips, and turnip- radilhes. Their garden cultivation went no farther; yet from hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy forts of vegetables (fuch at lead as pufh their roots down- ward), like carrots, parfnips, and beet, and perhaps pota- toes, would thrive t ilerably well. Major Behm told me, that fome other forts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but did not an. that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would l er head; and that peafe and beans fhot up very vigorous (talks, flowered and podded, but the pods never filled. He likewife told me, that in the experiments made by himfelf at Eolcherctfk, with different forts of farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high a and October. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 335 and ftrong blade, which eared, but that the ears never ^21?:. yielded flour. This fhort account of the vegetable productions reaches to fuch parts of the country only as fell within our notice. In the neighbourhood of the Kamrfchatka River, where (as hab been obferved, both the foil and climate is bv much the beft in the whole pcninfula, garden culture is attended to, and probably with great fuccefs as appears from our having received at the fame time, with the fecond drove of cattle from Verchnei, a prefent of cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and fome other garden-fluff, of which I do not recollect the kinds. There are two plants, which, from the great ufe made of them, merit a particular mention and description. The firft is called by tbe natives tbe farana ; and by botanifts, Lilium Kamtjkatieiife fiore atro rubente *. The Mem is about the thick- nefs of that of the tulip, and grows to the height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green higher up, and hath, growing from it, two tier or leaves of an oval figure, the lower confining of three leaves, the up- permolt of four, in the form of a crofs : from the top of the ilalk giows a fingle flower, of an exceedingly dark red colour, in fhape refembling the flower of the narcifTus, only much fmaller : from the centre of the flower* rites a flyle of a tri- angular form, and obtufe at the end, which is furrounded by fix white ftami a, whole extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous kind, and refembles, in fhape, that of garlic, being much of the fame fize, but rounder, and hav- ing, like that, four or five cloves hanging together. The * Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different fpecies of this plant, plant 336 AVOYAGETO «7-9- plant grows wild, and in confulerable abundance : the wo- Oflobcr. r . men are employed in collecting the roots at the beginning of Auguft, which are afterward dried in the fun, and then laid up for ufe. On our fecond arrival, this harveft was juft over, and had fallen much fhort of its ufual produce. It is a common obfervation, amongft the Kamtfchadales, that the bounty of Providence never fails them, for that fuch feafons as are moft hurtful to the farana, are always the moll favourable for fiftiing ; and that, on the contrary, a bad fifhing month is always made up by the exuberance of the farana harveft. It is ufed in cookery in various ways. When roafted in embers, it fupplies the place of bread, bet- ter than any thing the country affords. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an excellent fubftitute for flour and meal of every fort, and in this form is mixed in all their foups, and moft of their other dimes. It is efteemed extremely nourishing ; has a pleafant bitter tafte, and may be eaten every day without cloying. We ufed to boil thefe roots, and eat them as potatoes, either alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholefomc and plea- fant. It has been already mentioned, that this ufeful plant grows alfo at Oonalafhka, where the roots of it are ufed, and conllitute a considerable part of their food, in like man- ner as in Kamtfchatka. The other plant alluded to is called the fiveet grq/s; the botanical defcription is Herac/eum Siberieumfoliis pinnatis, fc/io/is qmnis, inter me Jus fejjdibus^ corolluls unifonnil'us. Hort. Upfal. 65. The time, I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a half high, had much the appear- ance of fedgc, and was covered with a white down, orduft, w!*ich looked exceedingly like the hoar-froft hanging upon if, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 337 it, and might be rubbed off: it tafled as fweet as fugar ; >779- but was hot and pungent. The ftalk is hollow, and confifts s- » L. of three or four joints; from each of which arife large leaves, and, when at its full growth, is fix feet high. This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of moft of the Kamcfchadale diflies ; but fince the Ruffians got poffeflion of the country, it has been almoft, intirely appropriated to the purpofe of diftillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward diftilled, is as follows: having cut fiich (talks as have leaves growing on them, of a proper age (the principal Item, by the time the plant has attained its full growth, having be- come too dry for their purpofe), and fcraped off with fhells the downy fubftance on their furface, they arc laid in fmall heaps, till they begin to fweat and fmcll. On growing dry again, they put them into facks made of matting; where, after remaining a few days, they are gradually co- vered with a fweet faccharine powder, which exudes from the hollow of the ftalk. From thirty-fix pounds of the plant, in this ftate, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The women, whofe province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilft they arc fcraping the italks, the rind they remove being of ib acrid a quality, as to blifter, and even ulcerate whatever it touches. The Jpirit is drawn from the plant in this ftate by the fol- lowing procefs. After fteeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its fermentation in a fmall veilcl, by the help of berries of the gbnolojl *, or of the golubitfa f, being careful * Lon'uera pcduncul'is biflsrisy flortbtu infundibitl formis, .baccj folitariij obfongu, an- guhfa. Gm'el. Flor. Sib. f Myrtillui grandis car ulcus. Vol. III. X x to and which being mixed with their fifh, make palat- able and wholefome ragouts. Such as the kipri*, with which is brewed a pleafant common beverage ; and, by boiling this plant and the fiueet herb together, in the pro- portion of one to five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is obtained a flrong and excel- lent vinegar. The leaves of it are ufed inilead of tea ; and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their diihes; the Morkovui -j-, which is very like angelica; the kotkorica J, the root of which they eat indifferently, green or dried ; the ikoum%\ the ntchichlei\\> which is much eaten with fi£h : with many others. * Epilobium. -f Cbeerophyllum feminibus levibas. \ Tradefcantia frudlu molli tduh. § B'tjiorta fcliis ovatis, oblongis, accuminatis. I Jacobta foli'n cannabis, Steller. It THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 339 It is raid, that the Kamtfchadales (before their acquaint- '7/9- ance with fire-arms), poifoned their fpears and arrows with the juice of the root of the zgate*\ and that wounds in- flicted by them are equally deftructive to land and marine animals. The Tfchutiki are reported to ufe the fame drug for this purpofe at prefent. I fhall conclude this part of the natural hiflory of Kamt- fchatka with an account, from the fame author, of three plants, which furnifh the materials of all their manufac- tures. The fir ft is the triticum radicc perenni fpiculis binis la- nuginofis -j- , which grows in abundance along the coaft. Of the flraw of this grafs they make a flrong fort of matting, which they ufe not only for their floors, but for facks, bed- cloths, curtains, and a variety of other domeflic purpofes. Of the fame materials they alfo make very neat little bags and bafkets, of different forms, and for various ufes. The plant called bolotnam, which grows in the marfhes, and refembles cyperoides, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb made of the bones of the fea- fwallow ; with this, in lieu of linen and woollen clothes, they fwath their new-born infants, and ufe it for a covering next the fkin whilft they are young. It is alfo made into a kind of wadding, and ufed for the purpofe of giving additional warmth to various parts of their clothing. There remains Hill a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes more effectually to their fubfiftence than all the reft put together, muft not be palled over in fllence. This is the nettle ; which, as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, fupplies the materials, of which are * Aiumcnoidcs ct ranunculus. f Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. iig. Tab. XXV. X x 2 made " A VOYAGE TO ">■ made their fithing-nets : and without which they could not . — , — j poilibly fubfift. For this purpofe they cut it down in Auguft; and, after hanging it up in bundles in the fhade, under their bahgans, the remainder of the fummer, treat it like hemp. They then fpin it into thread with. their fingers, and twift it round a fpindle ; after which they twine feveral threads together, according to the different purpofes for which it may be defigned. Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this pcninfula would admit of fuch cultivation as might contri- bute confiderably to the comfort of the inhabitants, yet its real riches muft always confift in the number of wild ani- mals it produces ; and no labour can ever be turned to fo good account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals, therefore, which fupply thefe, come next to be confidered : and thefe are the common fox; the ftoat, or ermine; the zibcline, or fable; the ijhtis, or arctic fox; the varying hare ; the mountain rat, or earlcfs marmot ; the weafel ; the glutton, or ivcherene ; the argali, or wild fheep; rein-deer; bears; wolves; dogs. The fox* is the mod general object of the chacc; and they are found in great numbers, and of variety of colours. The moft common is the fame in fpecies with the Euro- pean, with this variation, that the colours are more bright and Alining ; fome are of a dark chefnut, others are ftriped with dark-coloured bars ; others have the belly black, and the reft of the body of a light chefnut. Some again are of a very dark brown ; fome black ; others of a ilone colour ; and there arc a few quite white; but thefe laft are very fcarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a * Carta vulpts. quality Oftobcr. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. quality much fuperior to thofe either of Siberia or America. JJ7Q A variety of artifices are made ufe of by the hunters to catch this animal, which, in all climates, feems to preferve the fame character of craftinefs and cunning. Traps of different forts, fome calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by the feet, others by the head, are amongft the molt common ; to which may be added, feveral ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poifoncd baits are likewife in ufe ; and the mix vomica is the drug principally employed for this purpofe. Before their knowledge of the Ruffians, by which they became acquainted with fire-arms, they alfo carried bows and arrows to the chace. But fmce that period, almofl every Kamtfchadale is provided with a rifle-barrel gun ; and, though far from being dextrous in the ufe of it, its fuperiority over the former inftruments he is ready to acknowledge. The fables * of Kamtfchatka are faid to be confidcrably larger than thofe of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of fo good a black as thofe in the neigh- bourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime|, a circumflance which depreciates their value much more than their fupe- riority in other refpects enhances it. The fables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted the beft in Kamtfchatka; and a pair of thefe fometimes fell for thirty roubles (five pounds fter- ling). The worft are thofe of the Southern extremity. The apparatus of the fable hunters confift of a rifle-barrel gun of an exceedingly fmall bore, a net, and a few bricks: with the firft they moot them when they fee them on the trees ; the net is to furround the hollow trees in which, when pur- * Mujiela zibelltna. ■\ Risers emptying themfelves into the Lens, near its fourcc fucd, 34* 3 335- ■ 33*- 341- 34.1. Martin 3S6 A VOYAGE TO October. Martin •• 43°- Hirundo urbka 344- Sand martin A TCl. Hiruudo riparia Caprimulgus Europcus 344- 346. XIX. European goatfucker 437. . • Water Foivl. ' Chvcn-footcd Water Fowl. Great tern - No. 448. Sterna hlriiiuJo Kamtfchatkan - P. 525. A. Black-headed j gull No. 455. Larus ridibundus 225. Kittiwake gull - No. 456. Larus riffa 224. Ivory gull - No. 457. Arctic gull - No. 459. Tarrock - p- 533- D. Larus tridaclylus - 224. Red-legged - P- 533- E. Fulmar petrel - No. 464. Procellaria glaclalis 213. Stormy petrel - No. 464. Procellarla pelaglca 212. Kurile petrel - P. 536. A. Blue petrel*. Preface 1 Goofander merganfer No. 465. Mergus merganfer - 20S. Smew No. 468. Mergus albellus 209. Whittling fwan No. 469. Anas Cygnus ferns 1 94. A. Great goofe - P. 570. Chinefe goofe - P. 57*' Anas cygnoides 1 94. B. Snow goofe - No. 477. Brent goofe - No. 478. Anas bernlela 19S. Eider duck - No. 480. Anas mollijfmia 198. Black duck - No. 483. Anas fpeclab'dis *95- Velvet duck - No. 481. Anas f ufc a 196. Shoveler - No. 485. Anas clypeata 200. * I never faw this, but it is mentioned by Mr. Ellis. I had omitted it in my jzoologic part. Golden THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3S7 Golden eye No. 486. Anas clangula Harlequin No. 490. Anas hi/lrionica Mallard No. 494. Anas bofchas ** Weftern No. 497. Pintail No. 500. Anas acuta ** Longtailed No. 501. Anas glacialis Mouillon P. 57 3.F '. Anas glaucion Shieldrake P. $j2.D.Anas tadorna Tufted P. $y$.G.Anas fuligula Falcated - P. 574.I. Garganey P. 576.O. Anas querquedula - Teal P. 5 77. P. Anas crecia Corvorant No. 509. Pe lee an us carvo Violet Corvorant - P. 584.B. Red-faced corvorant P. 584.C. Crane P. /\.^.A.Ardeagrus Curlew P. 462. A.Seolopax arquata Whimbrel P. 462. B. Scolopax phaopus - Common fandpiper No. 388. T ring a hypoleucos - Gambet No. 394. Tringa gambet ta Golden plover No. 399. Charadrius pluvialis Pied oyiler-catcher No. Hamatopus ojlralegus With pinnated Feet. Plain phalarope With -webbed Feet. Wandering albatrofs No. 423. Diomedea exulans Razor-bill auk. No. 425. Alca torda Puffin No. 427. Alca arclica 201. 204. 205. 202. 203. 201. J95- 207. 263. 204. 21(5. 334- 242. 243- 250. 248. 254* *57- 1779- Oftober. Antient - No. 430. Pygmy - No. 431. - 214. 210. 211. Tufted t'fi A VOYAGE TO •779- Oftober. Tufted Parroquet No. 432. No. 433. Grafted No. 434. Dufky Foolilh guillemot - Black guillemot No. 435. No. 436. No. 437. Colymbus tro'ille - 220. Colymbus grylle - 220. Marbled guillemot Imber diver No. 438. No. 440. Colymbus immcr - 222. - Speckled diver Red-throated diver No. 441. No. 443. Colymbus feptentrlonalis 220. CHAP. THE PACIFIC O CE A N. ■ 359 ■ CHAP. VII. General Account of Kamtfchatha continued. — Of the In- habitants.— Origin of the Kamtfchadales, — Difcovered by the Ruffians. — AbftraSi of their Hijlory. — Numbers. — Prefent State. — Of the Ruffian Commerce in Kamt- fchatka. — Of the Kamtfchadale Habitations and Drefs. — Of the Kurile JJIands. — The Koreki. — The Ifchurjki. TH E prefent inhabitants of Kamtfchatka are of three forts. The natives, or Kamtfchadales. The Ruf- fians and CofTacks : and a mixture of thefe two bv mar- riage. Mr. Steller, who refided fome time in this country, and feems to have taken great pains to gain information on this fubjed, is perfuaded, that the true Kamtfchadales are a people of great antiquity, and have for many ages inha- bited this peninfula ; and that they are originally de- fcended from the Mungalians, and not either from the Ton- gufian Tartars, as fome, or the Japanefe, as others have imagined. The principal arguments, by which he fupports thefe opinions, are : That there exifts not among them the trace of a tradition of their having migrated from any other country : that they believe themfclves to have been created and '779- October. *6o AVOYAGETO o >779- and placed in this very fpot by their god Koutkou : that they October. , * , . n r are the moft favoured or his creatures ■, the molt fortunate and happy of beings ; and that their country is fuperior to all others, affording means of gratification far beyond what are any where elfe to be met with: that they have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of the country, their vir- tues and ufes, which could not be acquired in amort time: that their inftruments and houfehold utenfils differ greatly from thofe of any other nation, and are made with an ex- traordinary degree of neatnefs and dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own invention, and have been long in ariving at fo great perfection: that antecedently to the arrival of the Ruffians and CofTacks among them, they had not the fmalleft knowledge of any people, except the Koreki: that it is but of late they had an intercourfe with the Kuriles, and ftill later (and happened by means of a vef- fcl being fhipwrecked on their coaft) that they knew any thing of the Japanefe ; and, laflly, that the country was very populous, at the time the Ruffians firfl got footing in it. The rcafons he alleges for fuppofing them to be originally defcended from the Mungalians are: That many words in their language have terminations fimilar to thofe of the Mungalian Chinefe, fuch as, ong, ing, oi/:g, tel'ing, tcbaf tchoing, kfi, kfung, &c. ; and moreover, that the fame principle of inflexion or derivation obtains in both languages : that they are in general under-fized, as are the Mungalians : that their complexions, like theirs, is fvvarthy : that they have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nofe fhort and flat, the eyes fmall and funk, the eye-brows thin, the belly pen- dant, the legs fmall ; all which are peculiarities that are to 7 be THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 361 he found among the Mungalians. From the whole of '779- •which he draws this conclulion, that they fled ior fafety to this peninfula, from the rapid advances of the Eaftern con- querors ; as the Laplanders, the Samoides, &c. were com- pelled to retreat to the extremities of the North, by the Europeans. The Ruffians having extended their conquefts, and efta- blifhed ports and colonies along that immenfe extent of coaft of the frozen fea, from the Jenefei to the Anadir, ap- pointed commiflaries for the purpofe of exploring and fub- jecting the countries Hill farther Eafhvard. They foon be- came acquainted with the wandering Koriacs inhabiting the North and North Eafl coaft of the fea of Okotfk, and without difficulty made them tributary. Thefe being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtfchadales, and likewife in the habits of bartering with them, a knowledge of Kamt- fchatka followed of courfe. The honour of the firft difcovery is given to Feodot AlexeiefF, a merchant, who is faid to have failed from the river Kovyma, round the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, in company with feven other veilels, about the year 1648. The tradition goes, that being feparated from the reft by a ftorm, near the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, he was driven upon the coaft of Kamtfchatka, where he wintered ; and the fummer following coafted round the promontory of Lopatka, into the fea of Okotfk, and entered the mouth of the Tigil; but that he and his companions were cut off by the Koriacs, in endeavouring to pafs from thence by land to the Ana- dirik. This, in part, is corroborated by the accounts of Simeon Defhneff, who commanded one of the feven veffels, Vol. III. 3 A and Ottober. 362 . A VOYAGE TO and was thrown on fliore at the mouth of the Anadir. Be this as it may, fince thefe difcoverers, if fuch they were, did not live to make any report or' what they had done, Volodi- mir AtlaffofF, a Coflack, ftands for the firft acknowledged difcoverer of Kamtfchatka *. This perfon was fent, in the year 1697, from the fort Ja- kutfk to the Anadirfk, in the quality of commiflary, with inftruclions to call in the affiftance of the Koriacs, with a view to the difcovery of countries beyond theirs, and to the fubjecting them to a tribute. In 1699, he penetrated, with about fixty Ruffian foldiers, and the fame number of Cof- facks, into the heart of the peninfula, gained the Tigil, and from thence levying a tribute in furs, in his progrefs crofled over to the River Kamtfchatka, on which he built the higher Kamtfchatka ojlrog, called Verchnei, where he left a gar- rifon of fixteen CoiTacks, and returned to Jakutfk in 17^0, with an immenfe quantity of rare and valuable tributary furs. Thefe he had the good fenfe and policy to accompany to Mofcow, and, in recom pence for his fervices, was ap- pointed Commander of the fort of Jakutfk, with farther orders to repair again to Kamtfchatka, having firft drawn from the garrifon at Tobolfk a reinforcement of a hundred CofTacks, with ammunition, and whatever elfc could give efficacy to the completion and fettlement of his late disco- veries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirfk, he fell in with a bark on the River f Tungufka, laden with * It is proper to remark, that Atlaflbff fent an advanced party, unJer the com- mand of a fubakern, called Lucas Molofkoff, who certainly penetrated into Kamtfchatka, and returned with an account of his fuccefs, before AtlaflbfT fct out, and is therefore not unjuftly mentioned as the Difcoverer of Kamt- fchatka. ■\ This River empties itfelf into the Jcnelei. Chinefe . THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 363 Chinefe merchandize, which he pillaged; and in confe- «779- quence of a remonftrance from the fufferers to the Ruf- v ° er' » fian court, he was feized upon at Jakutfk, and thrown into prifon. In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlaflbff, kept peaceable pofTeffion of the garrifon of Verchnei ; and though he had not a fufficient force to com- pel the payment of a tribute from the natives, yet by his management, and conciliating difpofition, he continued to carry on an advantageous traflic with them as a merchant. On his return to the Anadirfk, with the general good-will of the native's of Kamtfchatka, himfelf and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and unfortunately all cut off. This hap- pened about 1703 ; and feveral other fucceffive commiflaries were fent into Kamtfchatka, with various fuccefs, during the difgrace and trial of Atlaflbff. In 1706, AtlafTofTwas reinftated in his command, and ap- pointed to conduct a fecond expedition into Kamtfchatka, with inftructions to gain upon the natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have recourfe to force and compulfion : but, inftcad of attending to his orders, he not only, by repeated acts of cruelty and injuftice, made the natives exceedingly hoftile and avcrfe to their new gover- nors, but likewife fo far alienated the affections of his own people, that it ended in a mutiny of the Cofiacks, and their demand of another commander. The Coilacks having carried their point, in difplacing AtlafTofF, feized upon his effects; and, after once tailing the fweets of plunder, and of living without discipline or controul, in vain did his fuc- cellbrs attempt to reduce them to military difcipline and fubjection. Three fucccflive commanders were afTafiinated 3 A 3 in 364 A V O Y A G E T O »779- in their turn ; and the CofTacks, being thus in open rebel- Oflober. ' _, i . , ««-— v ' lion to the Ruffian government, and with arms in their hands, were let loofe upon the natives. The hiftory of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the Kamt- fchadales in 1731, prefents one unvaried detail of maf- facres, revolts, and lavage and fanguinary rencounters be- tween fmall parties, from one end of the peninfula to tha other. What led to this revolt, was the difcovcry of a paffa gc from Okotfk to the Bolchoireka, which was fir ft made by Cofmo SokolofF, in the year 17 15. Hitherto the Ruffians had no entrance into the country, but on the fide of Ana- dirfk; fo that the natives had frequent opportunities of both plundering the tribute, as it was carried by fo long a joui> ncy out of the peninfula, and haralling the troops in their march into it. But by the difcovery of this communica*- tion, there exifted a fafc and fpeedy means, as well of ex- porting the tribute, as of importing troops and military ilores into the very heart of the country; which the natives eafily faw gave the Ruffians fo great an advantage, as muft foon confirm their dominion, and therefore determined them to make one grand and immediate ftruggle for their liberty. The moment refolved upon, for carrying their de- figns into execution, was when Beering mould have fet fail, who was at this time on the coaft with a fmall fquadron, and had difpatched all the troops that could well be fparcd from the country, to join Powloutflci, in an expedition againft the Tfchutfki. The opportunity was well chofen ; and it is altogether furprizing, that this confpiracy, which was fo general, that every native in the peninfula is faid to have had his fliarc in it, was at the fame time conducted with THE PAG IF I G OCEAN. 3^5 with fuch fecrecy, that the Ruffians had not the fmalleft '779- fufpicion that any thing hoflile to their interefts was in agitation. Their other meafures were equally well taken. They had a flrong body in readinefs to cutofFall communi- cation with the fort Anadirlk; and the Eaflern coaft was likewife lined with detached parties, with a view or' feizing. on any Ruffians that might by accident arrive from Okotfk. Things were in this Mate, when the commiflary Cheek- haerdin marched from Verchnei with his tribute, efcorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the Kamt- fchatka River, where a vefTel was lying to convey them to the Anadir. Befidcs waiting for the departure of Eeering, the revolt was to befufpended till this veflel fhould be ouc at fea, notice of which was to be given to the different Chiefs. Accordingly, the moment me was out of fight/ they began to mafTacre every Ruffian and CofTack that came in their way, and to fet fire to their houfes. A large body- afcended the River Kamtfchatka, made themfelvcs mailers of the fort and ojlrog the commiffary had jult quitted, put to. death all that were in it, and, except the church and the fort, reduced the whole to allies. Here it was that they firft learned that the Ruffian veflel, in which the commiilary had embarked, was ftill on the coaft, which determined them to defend themfelvcs in the fort. The wind fortunately foon brought the veflel back to the harbour; for had fhe proceeded in her voyage, nothing probably could have pre- vented the utter extirpation of the Ruffians. The Coflacks finding, on their landing, that their houfes had been burnt to the ground, and their wives and children either maflacrcd or carried off prifoners, were enraged to madnefs. They marched directly to the fort, which they attacked with great fury, and the natives as refolutely defended, till at t length 366 AVOYAGETO •779- length the powder-magazine taking fire, the fort was Oftobcr. ° * ° ° blown up, together with mod of thofe that were in it. Va- rious rencounters fuccecded to this event, in which much blood was fpilled on both fides: At length, two of the prin- cipal leaders being flain, and the third (after difpatching his wife and children, to prevent their falling into the enemy's hand) having put an end to himfclf, peace was eftablifhed. From that period every thing went on very peaceably, till the year 1740, when a few Ruffians loft their lives in a tumult, which was attended with no farther confequences; and, except the infurrection at Bolcheretfk in 1770 (which hath been already noticed), there has been no difturbance fince. Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the lofs of a great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed, that the country had recovered itfelf, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the year 1767, the fmall-pox, brought by a foldier from Okotfk, broke out among them for the firft time, marking its progrefs with ravages not lefs dreadful than the plague, and feeming to threaten their entire extirpation. They compute, that near twenty thoufand died of this diforder in Kamtfchatka, the Koreki country, and the Kurile Iflands. The inhabitants of whole villages were fwept away. Of this we had fufficient proofs before our eyes. There are no lefs than eight ojlrogs fcattered about the bay of Awatfka, all which, we were in- formed, had been fully inhabited, but are now entirely de- folate, except St. Peter and St. Paul; and even that contains no more than feven Kamtfchadales, who are tributary. At Paratounca oftrog there are but thirty-fix native inhabitants, 4 men, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 367 men, women, and children, which, before it was vifited by ,779- urn . Odtober. the imall-pox, we were told, contained three hundred and ' » ' fixty. In our road to Bolcheretfk, we pafled four extenfive qffrogs, with not an inhabitant in them. In the prefent di- minished ftate of the natives, with frefh fupplies of Ruf- fians and CofTacks perpetually pouring in, and who inter- mix with them by marriage, it is probable, that in lefs than half a century there will be very few of them left. By Ma- jor Behm's account, there are not now more than three thoufand who pay tribute, the Kurile iflanders included. I underftood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five forts of Nichnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretfk, and St. Peter and St. Paul, about four hundred Ruffians and CofTacks, and near the fame number at Ingiga, which, though to the North of the peninfula is, I learned, at pre- fent under the Commander of Kamtfchatka ; to thefe may be added the Ruffian traders and emigrants, whofe numbers are not very confiderable. The Ruffian government, eftablifhed over this country, is mild and equitable, confidered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives are permitted to choofe their own magistrates from among thcmfclves, in the way, and with the fame powers they had ever been ufed. One of thefe, under the title of T'oion, prefides over each ojlrog ; is the referee in all differences ; impofcs fines, and inflicts punifhments for all crimes and mifdemeanois ; referring to the governor of Kamtfchatka fuch only as he docs not choofe, from their intricacy or hcinoufncfs, to decide upon himfelf. The Tolon has likewife the appointment of a civil officer, called a Corporal, who affilts him in the execution of his office, and in his abfence acts as his deputy. By 368 A V O Y A G E T O 1779. By an edict of the prefent Emprefs, no crime whatfo- ever can be punifhed with death. But we were informed, that in cafes of murder (of which there are very few), the punifhtnent of the knout is administered with fuch fe verity, that the offender, for the moft parr, dies un- der it. The only tribute exacted (which can be confidercd as little more than an acknowledgment of the Ruffian domi- nion over them) confifts, in fome diiliicls, of a fox's fkin, in others of a fable's, and in the Kurile iiles of a fea otter's* but as this is much the moft valuable, one fkin ferves to pav the tribute of feveral perfons. The Toions collect the tribute in their refpeclive diflricfts. Befides the mildnefs- of their government, the Ruffians have a claim to every praife for the pains they have beflowed, and which have been attended with great fuccefs, in converting them to Chriftia- nity, there remaining, at prefent, very few idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other miflionaries, from the hofpitable and benevolent paflor of Paratounca (who is a native on the mother's fide), more fuitable perfons could not be fet over this bufincfs. It is needlefs to add, that the religion taught is that of the Greek church. Schools are likewife eftabliflicd in many of the ojlrogs, where the children of both the natives and Coilacks are gratuitously inllruc'ted in the Ruflian language. The commerce of this country, as far as concerns the ex- , ports, is intircly confined to furs, and carried on princi- pally by a company of merchants, inflitutcd by the prefent Emprefs. This company originally confitlcd of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are indulged with .certain privileges, and diflinguilhcd by wearing a golden medal, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 369 medal, as a mark of the Emprefs's encouragement and pro- 0'27^ teetion of the fur trade. Befides thefe, there are many in- ferior traders (particularly of the ColTacks) Scattered through the country. The principal merchants, for the time they are here, refide at Bolcheretfk, or the Niflinei ojlrog, in which two places the trade almoft wholly centers. Formerly this commerce was altogether carried on in the way of barter, but of late years every article is bought and fold for ready money only ; and we were furprized at the quantity of fpecie in circulation in fo poor a country. The furs fell at a high price, and the fituation and habits of life of the natives call for few articles in return. Our failors brought a great number of furs with them from the toaft of America, and were not lefs aftoniihed than delighted with the quantity of filver the merchants paid down for them y but on finding neither gin fhops to refort to, nor tobacco, or any thing elfe that they cared for, to be had for money, the roubles foon became troublefome companions, and I often obferved them kicking them about the deck. The merchant I have already had occafion to mention, gave our men at firfl thirty roubles for a fea-otter's fkin, and for others in proportion ; but finding that they had confulerable quantities to difpofe of, and that he had men to deal with who did not know how to keep up the market, he afterward bought them for much lefs. The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined to Ruffian manufacture* ; many are Englifh and Dutch ; feveral likewife come from Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They confift of coarfe woollen and linen clothes, yarn {lockings, bonnets, and gloves ; thin Perfian filks ; cottons, and pieces of nankeen, filk and cotton handkerchiefs; brafs coppers and pans, iron (loves, Vol. III. 3 B files, 57° A VOYAGE TO '-79- files, guns, powder and fhot; hardware, fuch as hatchets, bills, knives, fcifTars, needles, looking-glafTes ; flour, fu- gar ; tanned hides, boots, &.c. We had an opportunity of feeing a great many of thefe articles in the hands of a mer- chant, who came in the Emprefs's galliot from Okotfk ; and I mall only obferve generally, that they fold for treble the price they might have been purchafed for in England. And though the merchants have fo large a profit upon thefe imported goods, they have a £1 ill larger upon the furs at Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them. The befl fea-otter fkins fell generally in Kamtfchatka, for about thirty roubles apiece. The Chinefe merchant at Kiachta purchafes them at more than double that price, and fells them again at Pekin at a great ad- vance, where a farther profitable trade is made with fome of them to Japan. If, therefore, a fkin is worth thirty- roubles in Kamtfchatka, to be tranfported firft to Okotfk, thence to be conveyed by land to Kiachta, a diftance of one thoufand three hundred and fixty-four miles, thence on to Pekin, feven hundred and fixty miles more, and after this to be tranfported to Japan, what a prodigioufly advantage- ous trade might be carried on between this place and Japan, which is but about a fortnight's, at moft, three weeks»fail from it ? All furs exported from hence acrofs the fea of Okotfk, pay a duty of ten per cent, and fables a duty of twelve. And all forts of merchandize, of whatever denomina- tion, imported from Okotfk, pay half a rouble for every pood *. * Thirty-fix pounds Englifh. 2 The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 7^1 3/1 The duties arifing from the exports and imports, of «779- O Sober. which I could not learn the amount, are paid at Okotfk : but the tribute is collected at Bolcheretfk ; and, I was in- formed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten thoufand roubles annually. There are fix vefTels (of forty to fifty tons burthen) em- ployed by the Emprefs between Okotfk and Bolcheretfk ; five of which are appropriated to the tranfporting of flores and provifions from Okotfk to Bolcheretfk ; except that once in two or three years, fome of them go round to Awatfka, and the Kamtfchatka River ; the fixth is only ufed as a packet boat, and always kept in readinefs, and properly equipped for conveying difpatches. Befides thefe, there are about fourteen vefTels employed by the merchants in the fur trade, amongft the iflands to the Eaflward. One of thefe we found frozen up in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was to fail on a trading voyage to Oona- lafhka, as foon as the fcafon would permit. It is here to be obferved, that the mod confiderable and valuable part of the fur-trade is carried on with the iflands that lie between Kamtfchatka and America. Thefe were firft difcovered by Beering, in 1741, and being found to abound with fea-otters, the Ruffian merchants became ex- ceedingly eager in fearching for the other iflands feen by that navigator, to the South Eafl of Kamtfchatka, called, in Muller's Map, the Iflands of Seduction, St. Abraham, &c. In thefe expeditions they fell in with three groups of iflands. The firft about fifteen degrees to the Eafl of Kamt- fchatka, in 530 North latitude ; the fecond about twelve de- grees to the Elaftward of the former; and the third, Oona- lafhka, and the iflands in its neighbourhood. Thefe trad- 3 B 2 ing IT- A VOYAGE TO o'iob9' *n& adventurers advanced alfo as far Eafl as Shumagin's Iflands (fo called by Beering), the largeft of which is named Kodiak. But here, as well as on the continent at Alafka, they met with fo warm a reception in their attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward ventured fo far. However they conquered and made tribu- tary the three groups before mentioned. In the Ruffian charts, the whole fea between Kamtfchatka and America is covered with iflands ; for the adventurers in thefe expeditions frequently falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the fituation of other laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it mud be a new difcovery, and reported it as fuch on their return ; and fince the veflels employed in thefe expeditions were ufually out three or four years, and oftentimes longer, thefe miftakes were not in the way of being foon rectified. It is however now pretty certain, that the iflands already enumerated are all that have yet been difcovered, by the Ruffians, in that fea, to the Southward of 6o° of la- titude. It is from thefe iflands that the fea-otter fkins, the mofl valuable article of the fur trade, are for the mofl part drawn ; and as they are brought completely under the Ruf- fian dominion, the merchants have fettlemcnts upon them, where their factors refide, for the purpofe of bartering with the natives. Ic was with a view to the farther increafe and extenfion of this trade, that the Admiralty of Okotfk fitted out an expedition for the purpofe of making difcoverics to the North and North Eafl of the iflands above-mentioned, and gave the command of it, as I have already obferved, to Lieutenant Sy-nd. This gentleman, having directed his courfe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 373 courfe too far to the Northward, failed in the objeel: of his '779- voyage ; for, as we never faw the fea-otter to the North- ward of Briflol Bay, it feems probable, that they fhun thofe latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious fea-animals abound. This was the laft expedition undertaken by the Ruffians for profecuting difcoveries to the Laftward; but they will undoubtedly make a proper ufe of the advan- tages we have opened to them, by the difcovery of Cook's river. Notwithftanding the general intercourfe that, for the laft forty years, hath taken place between the natives, the Ruffians, and CofTacks, the former are not more diftin- guifhed from the latter by their features and general figure, than by their habits and caft of mind. Of the perfons of the natives, a defcription hath been already given, and I fhall only add, that their ftature is much below the com- mon fize. This Major Behm attributes, in a great mealurer to their marrying fo early; both fexes generally entering into the conjugal Mate at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their induftry is abundantly confpicuous, without being contrafted with the lazinefs of their Ruffian and Coilack in- mates, who are fond of intermarrying with them, and, as it mould feem, for no other reafon, but that they may be fupported in floth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed thofe dreadful fcorbutic com- plaints, which none of them efcape ; whilft the natives,, by conftant exercife and toil in the open air, are intirely free from them. Referring the reader for an account of the manners, cuf- toms, and fuperftitions of the Kamtfchadales, at the time the Ruffians became firft acquainted with this country, to> 1 KrafchcninicofF, 374 AVOYAGETO •779- Krafcheninicoff, I mall proceed to a defcription of their ha- Oclober. ■ bitations and drefs. The houfes (if they may be allowed that name) are of three diftinct forts, jourts, balagans> and loghoufes, called here ijbas. The firlt are their winter, the fecond their fummer habitations ; the third arc altogether of Ruffian intro- duction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier fort. The jourts, or winter habitations, are conftructed in the following manner : An oblong fquare, of dimenfions pro- portioned to the number of perfons for whom it is intended (for it is proper to obferve, that feveral families live toge- ther in the fame jourt) is dug in the earth to the depth of about fix feet. Within this fpace, ftrong pofts, or wooden pillars, are fattened in the ground, at proper distances from each other, on which are extended the beams for the fup- port of the roof, which is formed by joifts, refting on the ground with one end, and on the beams with the other. The interftices between the joifts are filled up with a ftrong wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; fo that a jourt has externally the appearance of a round fquat hillock. A hole is left in the center, which ferves for chimney, win- dow, and entrance, and the inhabitants pafs in and out by means of a ftrong pole (inftcad of a ladder) notched juft deep enough to afford a little holding to the toe. There is likewife another entrance in the fide, even with the ground, for the convenience of the women ; but if a man makes ufc of it, he fubjects himfelf to the fame difgracc and dc- rilion, as a failor would, who defcends through lubbers- hole. The jourt confifts of one apartment, of the form of an oblong fquare. Along the fides arc extended broad plat- forms THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 375 forms made of boards, and raifed about fix inches from the r779- O&ober. ground, which they ufe as feats, and on which they go to ' » * reft, after ftrewing them with mats and fkins. On one fide is the fire-place, and the fide oppofite is entirely fet aparc for the ftowage of provifions and kitchen utenfils. At their feafts, and ceremonious entertainments, the hotter the jourts are made for the reception of the guefts, the greater the compliment. We found them at all times fo hot, as to make any length of flay in them to us intolerable. They betake themfelves to the jourts the middle of October ; and, for the moft part, continue in them till the middle of May. The balagans are raifed upon nine polls, fixed into the earth' in three rows, at equal diftances from one another, and about thirteen feet high from the furface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters are pafled from poft to port, and firmly fecured by ftrong ropes. On thefe rafters are laid the joifts, and the whole being covered with turf, conflitutes the platform or floor of the balagan. On this is raifed a roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, faftened down to the rafters at one end, and meeting toge- ther in a point at the top, and thatched over with ftrong coarfe grafs. The balagans have two doors placed oppofite each other, and they afcend to them by the fame fort of ladders they ufe in the jourts. The lower part is left in- tirely open ; and within it they dry their fifh, roots, vege- tables, and other articles of winter confumption. The pro- portion of jourts to balagansy is as one to fix ; fo that fix fami- lies generally live together in one jpurp. The loghoufes (ijbasj are raifed with long timbers piled Horizontally, the ends being let into one another, and the feams 376 A V O Y A G E T O '779- feams caulked with mofs. The roof is floping like that of ^_ u -.-. ' j our common cottage-houfes, and thatched with coarfe grafs or ruflies. The infide confifts of three apartments. At one end is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and height of the houfe, and is the receptacle of their fledges, harnefs, and other more bulky gears and houfe- hold fluff. This communicates with the middle and bed apartment, furnifhed with broad benches, for the purpofe, as hath been above mentioned, of both eating and fleeping upon. Out of this is a door into the kitchen, one half of which is taken up by the oven or fire-place, fo contrived, by being let into the wall that feparates the kitchen and the middle apartment, as to warm both at the fame time. Over the middle apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which they afcend by a ladder placed in the entry. There are two fmall windows in each apartment, made of talc, and in the houfes of the poorer fort, of fifh fkin. The beams and boards of the cieling are dubbed fmooth with a hat- chet (for they are unacquainted with the plane), and from the effects of the fmoke are as black and ihining as jet. A town of Kamtfchatka is called an ojlrog, and confills of fcveral of the three forts of houfes above defcribed j but of which balagans are much the mod numerous ; and I muft ob- ferve, that I never met with a houfe of any kind detached from an ojlrog. Saint Peter and Saint Paul confifls of feven loghoufes, or ijbas, nineteen balagans, and three jourts. Para- tounca is of about the fame fize. Karatchin and Natchekin contain fewer loghoufes, but full as many jourts and balngans as rhe former; from whence I conclude, that fuch is the ufual fize of the ojlrogs. Having THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 377 Having already had occafion to mention the drefs of the J779- Kamtfchadale women, I fhall here confine myfelf to a de- scription of that of the men. The outermoft garment is of the fhape of a carter's frock. Thofe worn in fummer are of nankeen ; in winter they are made of fkins, moft commonly of the deer or dog, tanned on one fide, the hair being left on the other, which is worn innermoft. Under this is a clofe jacket of nankeen, or other cotton fluffs, and beneath that a fhirt of thin Perfian filk, of a blue, red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their drefs confifts of a pair of tight trowfers, or long breeches, of leather, reaching down to the calf of the leg ; of a pair of dog or deer fkin boots, with the hair innermoft ; and of a fur cap, with two flaps, which are generally tied up clofc to the head, but in bad weather are let to fall round the moulders. The fur drefs prefented to me by a fon of Major Behm (as already mentioned) is one of thofe worn by the Toions, on ceremonious occafions. The form exactly refcmbles that of the common exterior garment juft clcfcribed. It is made of fmall triangular pieces of fur, chequered brown and white, and joined fo neatly as to appear to be one fkin. A border of fix inches breadth, wrought with threads of different coloured leather, and producing a rich effect, fur- rounds the bottom, to which is fufpended a broad edging of the fea-otter fkin. The fleeves are turned up with the fame materials ; and there is likewife an edging of it round the neck, and clown the opening at the brealt. The lining is of a fmooth white fkin. A cap, a pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the utmoft degree of neatnefs, and made of the fame materials, conflitute the remainder of Vol. III. 3 C this 378 AVOYAGETO '779- this fuit. The Ruffians in Kamtfchatka wear the European cJ~* 1/ drefs ; and the uniform of the troops quartered here, is of a dark green, faced with red. As the people fituatcd to the North and South of this country arc yet imperfectly known, I fhall conclude the ac- count of Kamtfchatka with fuch information concerning the Kurile Iflands, and the Koreki and Tfchutfki, as I have been able to acquire. The chain of iflands, running in a South Weft direction from the Southern promontory of Kamtfchatka to Japan, extending from latitude si° t0 45°» are called the Kuriles. They obtained this name from the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themfelves called Kuriles, gave their own name to thefe iflands, on firft be- coming acquainted with them. They are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in number, without reckoning the very fmall ones. The Northernmoft, called Shoomfka, is not more than three leagues from the promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of natives and Kamtfcha- dales. The next to the South, called Paramoufir, is much larger than Shoomfka, and inhabited by the true natives ; their anceftors, according to a tradition among them, having come from an ifland a little farther to the South, called Once ut an. Thofe two iflands were firft vifited by the Ruf- fians in 17 13, and at the fume time brought under their do- minion. The others in order, are at prefent made tributary down to Oofhefheer inclufive, as I am informed by the worthy Pallor of Paratounca, who is their Miiiionary, and vifits them once in three years, and i'peaks of the illandcrs in terms of the higheft com me ition, reprefenting them as a friendly, hofnitablc, gene 1 us, humane race of people, 5 and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 579 and excelling their Karntfchadale neighbours, not lefs in 0'^^r the formation of their bodies, than in docility and quick- nefs of underftanding. Though Oofhefheer is the Southern- mofl ifland that the Ruffians have yet brought under their dominion, yet I underfland that they trade toOoroop, which is the eighteenth; and, according to their accounts, the only one where there is a good harbour for fhips of burthen. Beyond this, to the South, lies Kadeegfda, which was repre- sented to us by the Ruffians, as inhabited by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like thofc of Ooroop, live in a (late of entire independence *. In the fame direction, but inclining fomewhat more to the Weftward, lie a group of iflands, which the Japanefe call Jefo; a name which they alfo give to the whole chain of iflands between Kamtfchatka and Japan. The Southern- raoft, called Matmai, hath been long fubject to the Japanefe, and is fortified and garrifoned on the fide toward the conti- nent. The two iflands to the North Eaft of Matmai, Kuna- chir, and Zellany, and iikewife the three ftill farther to the North Eaft, called the Three Siflers, arc perfectly inde- pendent. * Spanberg places the ifland here fpoken of in 430 50' North latitude, and men- tions his having watered upon it ; and that this watering party bi ;ht of the natives ; of whom he relates the following circumftances : That their bodies were co- vered all over with hair ; that they wore a loofe ftriped filk gown, re as low as their ankles ; and that fome of them had filvcr rings pendant from the ears : that, on fpying a live cock on deck, they fell on their knees before it j and Iikewife, before the prefents that were brought out to them, clofing and ftretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads, at the fame time, down to the ground ; that, except the pecu- liarity of their hairinefs, they refembled the other Kurile inlanders in their features and figure, and fpoke the fame language. The journal of the fliip Caftricom alio men- tions this circumftance of the inhabitants of the country difcovered by them, and called Jefo, being hairy all over the body. 3 C 2 A trade 38o AVOYAGETO »779- A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the Oaobcr. ♦— % ' iflands laft mentioned ; and between thofe again and the Kuriles, to the Northward; in which, for furs, dried fifh, and oil, the latter get filk, cotton, iron, and Japanefe articles of furniture *. The inhabitants of as many of the iflands as are brought under the Ruffian dominion, are, at prefent, converted to Chriflianity. And probably the time is not very diftant, when a friendly and profitable intercourfe will be brought about between Kamtfchatka and the whole of this chain of iflands ; and which will draw after it a communication with japan itfelf. This may eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumftance related to me by Major Behm, that feveral Ruffians, who had been taught the Japanefe language, by two men belonging to a veffel of that nation, which had been |fhip wrecked on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, had been fent among thofe iflands. The * This accounts for what KracheninicofF fays, that he got from Paramoufir a japanned table and vafe, a fey meter, and a filverring, which he fent to the cabinet of her Imperial Majefty at Pcterfburg. And if what Mr. Stcller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was interpreter to Spanbcrg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited, that nearly the fame language is fpoken at Kunalhir and Paramoufir, it cannot be questioned, that foinc intercourfe has always fubfifted between the inha- bitants of this extenfive chain of iflands. \ The vefTel here fpoken of was from Satfma, a port in Japan, bound for another Japanefe port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and filks. She failed with a favourable wind ; but, before fhe reached her defoliation, was driven out to fea by a violent ftorm, which carried away her mafts and rudder. On the ftorm's abating, not one of the crew, which confiftcd of feventccn [having probably never made other than coalling voyages), knew who thev were, or what coitrfe to (leer. After remaining in this fituation fix months, they were driven on fhorc near the promontory Lopatka j and having caft out an anchor, began to carry on (horc fuch articles as were neceflary to their cxilicncc. They next erected a tent, and had remained in it twenty-three days, without feeing a human being ; when chance conducted THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3$i The advantages that would accrue to the Ruffians by an >779 immediate trade to Japan, have been already adverted to, and are too many, and too obvious, to need infilling upon. The Koreki country includes two diftincl nations, called the Wandering and Fixed Koriacs. The former inhabit the Northern part of the ifthmus of Kamtfchatka, and the whole coaft of the Eaftern Ocean, from thence to the Anadir. The country of the Wandering Koriacs ftretches along the North Eaft of the fea of Okotfk to the river Penfkina, and Weftward toward the river Kovyma. conduced a Coflack officer, calhd Andrew ChinnikofF, with a few Kamtfchadales to their habitation. The poor unfortunate Japanefe, overwhelmed with joy at thefio-hc of fellow-creatures, made the moft figniflcant tenders, they were able, of friendfhip and afFeclion ; and prefented their vifiters with filks, fabres, and a part of whatever elfe they had brought from the {hip. The treacherous ChinnicofFmade reciprocal returns of kindnefs and good-will ; and, after remaining with them long enough to make fuch obfervations as fuited his defigns, withdrew from them in the night. The Ja- panefe finding that their vifiters did not return, knew not what courfe to take. In defpair they manned their boat, and were rowing along the coaft in fearch of a ha- bitation, when they came up with their vefiel, which had been driven afhore ; and found ChinnicofF and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the fake of the iron. This fight determined them to continue their courfe, which ChinnicofF perceiving, ordered his men to purfue and mafl'acre them. The unfortunate Japanefe, feeing a canoe in purfuit, and which they could not efcape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them leaped into the fea ; others, in vain, had recourfe to prayer and intreaties. They were all ma/Tacred but two, by the very fabres they had pre- fented to their fuppofed friends a few days before. One of the two was a boy about cJeven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied his father, the /hip's pilot, to ■ learn navigation ; the other was a middle-aged man, the fupercargo, and called Soft. ChinnicofF foon met with the punifhment due to his crimes. The two ftrangers were conducted to Petersburg, where they were fent to the academy, witli proper in- ftruclors and attendants; and feveral young men were, at the fame time, put about them for the purpole of learning the Japanefe language. They were thrown on the coaft of Kamtfchatka in 1730. The younger furvived the abfence from his country five, the other fix years. Their portraits are .to be ken ■ in the cabinet of the emprefs at Peterfburg. Vid. KrafcheninicofF, -Vol. ii. part 4, Er; Ed. The October. 5$2 AVOYAGETO Kh9- The Fixed Koriacs have a flrong refemblance to the Oaobcr. ° Kamtfchadales ; and, like them, depend altogether on fifh- ing for fubfiftence. Their drefs and habitations are of the fame kind. They are tributary to the Ruilians, and under the difiritft of the Ingiga. The Wandering Koriacs occupy themfelves intirely in breeding and pafturing deer, of which they are faid to poffefs immenlc numbers ; and that it is no unufual thing for an individual Chief to have a herd of four or five thoufand. They defpifc fifli, and live intirely on deer. They have no balagans ', and their only habitations are like the Kamtfcha- dale jourts, with this difference, that they are covered with raw deer-fkins in winter, and tanned ones in fummer. Their Hedges are drawn by deer, and never by dogs ; which, like the latter, are like wife always fpaved, in order to be trained to this bufinefs. The draft deer pafture in company with the others ; and when they are wanted, the herdfmen make ufe of a certain cry, which they inftantly obey, by coming out of the herd. The prieftof Paratounca informed mc, that the two nations of the Koriacs, and the Tfchutfki fpeak different dialects of the fame language ; and that it bears not the fmalled refemblance to the Kamtfchadale. The country of the Tfchutfki is bounded on the South bv the Anadir, and extends along the coaft to the Tfchutfl Nofs. Like the Wandering Koriacs, their attention is prin- cipally confined to their deer, of which their country affords great numbers, both tame and wild. They are a (lout, well-made, bold, warlike race of people ; redoubtable neighbours to both nations of the Koriacs, who often feci the effects of their depredatory incurfions. The Ruffians have, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 383 have, for many years, been ufing their endeavours to bring x779- J * " ° Otlober. them under their dominion ; and, after lofing a great many men in their different expeditions for this purpofe, have not been able to effect it. I mall here conclude this article, fince all we can fay of this people, on our own knowledge, hath been laid before the Reader in the preceding Volume. C H A P. 3*4 A VOYAGE TO CHAP. VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings. — Courfe to the Southward, alo?ig the Coafl of Kamtfchatka. — Cape Lopatka. — Pafs the Ijlands Shoomfka and Paramoufir, — Driven to the Eajlward of the Kuriles. — Singular Situation with refpeEl to the pretended Difcoveries of former Navi- gators.— Fruit lefs Attempts to reach the Ijlands North of yapan. — Geographical Conclufons. — View of the Coafl of Japan. — Run along the Eafl Side. — Pafs two Ja- panefe Veffels. — Driven off the Coafl by contrary Winds. — Extraordinary Effect of Currents^ — Steer for the Bafhees. — Pafs large Quantities of Pumice Stone. — Difcover Sulphur If and ^ — Pafs the Pratas. — Ifes of Lenta, a?id Ladron If and. — Chinefe Pilot taken on board the Refolution. — Journals of the Officers and Men fccured. OUR inftruc'tions from the Board of Admiralty having left a difcretionary power with the commanding Of- Saturday 9. ficcr Qf the expedition, in cafe of failure in the fearch of a pafTage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England, by whatever route he fliould think bed for the farther improvement of geography ; Captain Gore de- manded of the principal oflicers their fentiments, in writ- ing, refpecting the manner in which thefe orders might 2 mod *779- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 385 raoft effectually be obeyed. The refuk of our opinions, '779- which he had the fatisfaction to find unanimous, and in- ■ — -> — -» tirely coinciding with his own, that the condition of the fhips, of the fails and cordage, made it unfafe to attempt, at fo advanced a feafon of the year, to navigate the fea be- tween Japan and Afia ; which would otherwife have afford- ed the largeft field for difcovery ; that it was therefore ad- vifeable to keep to the Eaftward of that ifland, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles, and examine more particularly the iflands that lie nearefl the Northern coaft of Japan, which are reprefentcd as of a confiderable fize, and independent of the Ruflian and Japanefe governments. Should we be fo fortunate as to find in thefc any fafe and commodious harbours, we conceived they might be of im- portance, either as places of fhelter for any future navi- gators, who may be employed in exploring the feas, or as the means of opening a commercial intercourfe among the neighbouring dominions of the two empires. Our next ob- ject was to furvey the coaft of the Japanefe Iflands, and after- ward to make the coafl of China, as far to the Northward as we were able, and run along it to Macao. This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in cafe of feparation, to proceed immediately to Macao ; and at fix o'clock in the evening of the 9th of Octo- Saturday 9. ber, having cleared the entrance of Awatfka Bay, we fleered to the South Eaft, with the wind North Weft and by Weft. At midnight we had a dead caim, which continued till noon of the 10th; the light-houfe, at this time, bearing Sunday IO> North half Weft, diftant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea South by Weft half Weft. Being luckily in foundings of fixty and feventy fathoms water, we employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly Vol. III. 3 D fine 306 A VOYAGE TO fine and plentiful ; and at three in the afternoon, a breeze , " '- i'prung up from the Weft, with which we flood along the coaft to the Southward. A head land, bearing South by Weft, now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about feven leagues beyond it. Eetwecn them are two narrow but deep inlets, which may probably unite behind what appears to be an high ifland. The coaft of thefe inlets is deep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chafms and deep vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Ga- vercea (which lies in latitude 520 21', longitude 1580 38') and Awatfka Bay, there arc appearances of feveral inlets, which at firft fight may flatter the mariner with hopes of finding flicker and fafe anchorage: but the Ruffian pilots allured us, that there are none capable of admitting veffels of the fmalleft fize, as the low land fills up the fpaces that appear vacant between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became calm ; but, at midnight, wc had a light breeze from the North, which increafed gradually Monday n. to a ftrong gale; and at noon, the next day, we found our- felvcs in latitude 52° 4', longitude 158° 31', when Cape Ga- vareea bore North by Weft one quarter Weft ; the South ex- treme South Weft half Weft. Wc were at this time diftant from the ncarcft fhorc about three leagues, and faw the whole country inland covered with mow. A point of land to the Southward, which wc place in latitude 510 54', formed the North fide of a deep bay, called Achachinfkoi, in the diftant bottom of which wc fuppofed a large river to empty itfelf, from the land behind being fo unufually low. South of Achachinfkoi Bay, the land is not Co rugged and barren as that part of the country which wc had before pafled. 2 During T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. «87 During the night we had variable winds and rain ; but at *779- four in the morning of the 12th, it began to blow fo ftrong, < - 1» from the North Eaft, as to oblige us to double-reef the top- Tuefday '*' fails, and make it prudent to Hand more off the more. At fix, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made fail, and flood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 510 o', longitude 1570 25'. The Northcrnmoft land in fight, being the point we have mentioned as firft opening with Cape Gavareea, bore North North Eaft. A head-land, with a flat top, which is in latitude 510 27', and makes the South point of an inlet, called Girowara, bore North one quarter Eaft, and the Southernmost land in fight Weft three quarters North, diftant fix leagues. At this time we could juft perceive low land ftretching from the South- ern extreme ; but the wind veering round to the North Weft, we could not get a nearer view of it. At fix in the afternoon, we faw, from the maft head, Cape Lopatka, the Souihernmoft extremity of Kamtfchatka. It is a very low flat Cape, (loping gradually from the high level land that we faw at noon, and bore Weft half North, about five leagues diftant; and the high land North Weft by Weft half Weft. As this point of land forms fo marked an object in the geography of the Eaftern coaft of Afia, we were glad to be able, by an accurate obiervation, and feveral good angles, to determine its precife Situation, which is in lati- tude 51° o', longitude 156° 45'. To the North Weft of it we faw a remarkable high mountain, the top of which lofes itfelf in the clouds; and, at the fame time, the firft of the Kurile Iilands, called Shoomika, appeared in fight, bearing Weft half South. The paflage between this ifland and Cape Lopatka, the Ruffians defcribe as being three miles broad, and very dangerous, on account of the rapidity of the tides, 3 D 2 and 38S A VOYAGE TO '"79- Oftobcr. Wednef. 13. and the funk rocks that are off the Cape. From Cape Ga- vareea to Lopatka, the coaft trends South Eaft. South of Achachinfkoi, the land is not fo high and broken as be- tween that Bay and the mouth of Awatfka, being only of a moderate elevation toward the fea, with hills gradually rifing farther back in the country. The coaft is fteep and bold, and full of white chalky patches. At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of catching fome fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and about five or fix leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and afternoon, we had obfervations, with different compaffes, for the variation, and found it to be 50 20' Eaft. We flood on all night, under an eafy fail, to the South South Weft, having the wind Wefterly. At midnight, we founded, and had fixty fathoms ; and, at day-break of the 13th, we faw the fccond of the Kurile lilands (called by the Ruffians Paramoufir), extending, from North Weft by Weft, to Weft half South. This land is very high, and almoft intirely covered with mow. At noon, the extremes bore from North North Weft half Weft, to Weft North Weft half Weft; and a high peaked mountain, from which fome thought they faw imoke iffuing, North Weft by Weft half Weft, about twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. At this time our latitude, by observation, was 49* 49', and our longitude 157° o'. In the courfe of the day we faw many gulls and albatroffes, and fcvcral whales. Paramoufir is the largeft of the Kuriles under the domi- nion of RuHia, and \vell delerves a more accurate furvey, than we were at this time allowed to take. For, in the af- ternoon, the gale increafing from the Weft, we were never able THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 389 able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon : and *p?- r ' October. were, therefore, obliged to be contented with endeavouring < ,— — » to afcertain its fituation at that diftance. We place the South end of the ifland in latitude 490 58' ; the North end in lati- tude 500 46', and in longitude 10' Weft of Lopatka ; and as this pofition is found not to differ materially from that given by the Ruffians, it is probably very near the truth. Whilfl we were abreaft of this ifland, we had a very heavy fwell from the North Eaft, though the wind had, for fome time, been from the Weftward ; a circumftance which we have already remarked more than once during the courfe of our voyage. In the night we tried for foundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line. On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing fteadily and frefh Thurfday i4. from the Weftward, we were obliged to ftand to the South- Frlday •*■ ward ; and confequently hindered from feeing any more of the Kurile iflands. At noon of the 16th, the latitude, by Saturday 16. obfervation, was 450 27'; the longitude, deduced from a number of lunar obfervations taken during the three days paft, 1 550 30'. The variation 40 30' Eaft. In this fituation, we were almoft furrounded by the fuppofed difcoverics of former navigators, and uncertain to which we mould turn ourfelves. To the Southward and the South Weft were placed, in the French charts, a groupe of five iflands, called the Three Sifters, Zellany and Kunafhir. We were about ten leagues, according to the fame maps, to the Weft- ward of the land of De Gama, which we had pafled to the Eaftward in April laft, at a diftance rather lefs than this, without feeing any appearance of it j from which circumftance we may nowv conclude, that, if fuch land exift at all, it muft be an ifland of a very inconfiderablc 3 iize, 39° October A VOYAGE TO 779- fizc*. On the other hand, if we give credit to the original pofition of this land, fixed by Texiera f, it lay to the Weft by South •, and as the Company's Land X, Staten Ifland §, and the famous land of Jefo j], were alfo fuppofed to lie nearly * From Mullcr's account of the courfe fleered by Captain Spanberg, in his route from Kamtfchatka to Japan, it appears, that he muft alfo undoubtedly have fecn De Gama's Land, if it really has the extent given it in Mr. d'Anville's m. Walton, who commanded a vefiel in the fame expedition, feems alfo to have looked in vain for this land on his return from Japan ; and three years afterward, on account of fome doubts that had arifen refpedting Spanbcrg's courfe, Becring went directly in fearch of it, as low as the latitude of 46°. See Voyages et Decouvatcs, &c. p. 210, & feq. f See Book VI. Chap. i. p. 149. X This land was feen by the Dutchmen who failed in the Caftricom and Brefkes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America. There now remains fcarcc any doubt of its being the iflands of Ooroop and Nadeegfda. See the Journals of the Caftricom and Brefkes, publifhed by Wctzer. ^ This land was alfo difcovered by the Caftricom ; and, from its fituation, as de- fcribed in the journal of that veffe!, it appears to be the iflands of the Three Sillers. The country of Jefo, which has fo long been a ftumbling-biock to our modern geographer?, was firft brought to the knowledge of Europeans by the Dutch veffels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears, from the carlieft accounts, to have been well known, both to the Japanefe and the Kamtfchad.iles ; and ufed by them, indiscriminately; for all the iflands lying between Kamtfchatka and Japan. It has fince been applied to a large imaginary ifland, or continent, fuppofed to have been difcovered by the Caftricom and Brefkes ; and it may not, therefore, be improper to copfider the grounds of this miftake, as far as can be collected from the Journals of this expedition. The object of the voyage, in which thole fhips were engaged, was to explore the Eaftern fhorc of Tartary ; bet, being feparatcd by a ftorm off the South Eaft poinl of Japan, they failed in different tracks along the Eaft fide of that ifland; and, having paused its Northern extremity, proceeded iingly on their intended expedition. Caftricom, commanded by De Yries, (leering Northward, fell in with land on the third day, in latitude 4a9. He failed along the South Eaft cbaft about fixty leagues in a conJJant fog 5 and having anchored in vai cs, held 1 in- tercourfe with the iri . Thus far the Journal. Now, as the iflands of Matimai, Kunafhir, - ( in Spanberg's Difco 'lie exactly in this lititation, there can be no doubt of their ne land ; and the circutnftancc of the fog fufl accounts for u-.c error of De Vries, in imagining the in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 391 nearly in the fame direction, together with the group firft »?79- mentioned, according to the Ruffian charts, we thought this < . ' coaft deferved the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the Weftward, the wind having fhifted, in the afternoon, to the Northward. During this day we faw large flocks of gulls, fcveral albatroffes, fulmars, and a number of fifh, which our failors called grampufes ; but, as far as we could judge, from the appearance of thofe that paffed clofe by the ihips, we imagined them to be the kafatka, or fword-fifh, dcfcribed by Krafcheninicoff, to whom I refer the Reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack- the whales. In the evening, a vifit from a fmall land bird, about the fizc of a gold-finch, and refcmbling that bird in fhapc and plumage, made us keep a good look-out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for foundings, we found no ground with forty-five fathoms of line. them to be one continent ; without having recourfe to the fuppofition of an earthquake, by which Mr. Muller, from his defire to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Rufiian difcoveries, conceives the fcveral parts to have been feparated. The Journal then proceeds to give an account of the difcovery of Staten iJland and Com- pany's Land, of which T have already given my opinion, and (hall have occafion to fpeak hereafter. Having parted through the Straits of De Vries, fays the Journal, they entered a vaft, wild, and tempeftuous fea, in which they fleered, through mills and darknefsj to the 4.8 latitude North ; after which they were driven by contrary winds to the Southward, and again fell in with land to the Weftward, in latitude 45% which they unaccountably frill-imagined to be part of the continent of Jefo ; whereas, whoever examines Janfen's map of their difcoveries (which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his information went), will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at this time, on the coaft of Tartary. Having traced this land four degrees to the Northward, they returned to the Southward through the Straits they had paiTcd before. It is not neceflary to trouble the Reader with the Journal of the Brefkes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already republifhed, and very fatisfactoiily animadverted upon by Mr. Muller. Voyages from AJta to America^ &c. Englilh Tranflation, p. 78. On: 392 A VOYAGE TO '779- On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 450 7', by ob- October. . ■ , < , » fervation, longitude 154 o. The wind now again coming to the Wefhvard, obliged us to fleer a more Southerly courfe; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a frefli gale, accompanied with heavy rain. In the morning, we faw another land-bird, and many flocks of gulls and petcrels bending their courfe to the South Weft. The heavy North Eafl fwell, with which we had conftantly laboured fince our departure from Lopatka, now ceafed, and changed Monday 18. fuddenly to the South Eaft. In the forenoon of the i8th, we palled great quantities of rock-weed, from which, and the flights of birds above mentioned, we conjectured we were at no great diflance from the Southernmoft of the Kuriles ; and, at the fame time, the wind coming round to the South, enabled us to ftand in for it. At two, we fet fludding-fails, and fleered Weft; but the wind increafing to a gale, foon obliged us to double reef the topfails ; and, at midnight, we judged it neceffary to try for foundings. Accordingly we hove to; but, finding no bottom at feventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to perfevere, and again bore away Weft, with the wind at South Eaft. This courfe we kept Tuefday 19. till two in the morning, when the weather becoming thick, we hauled our wind, and fleered to the South Weft till five, when a violent florm reduced us to our courfes. Notwithftanding the unfavourable ftatc of the weather left us little profpect of making the land, we ftill kept this object anxioufly in view ; and, at day-light, ventured to fleer Weft by South, and continued to Hand on in this di- rection till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, fuddenly fhifting to the South Weft, brought with it clear weather. Of this we had fcarccly taken advantage, by fetting the top- fails, and letting out the reels, when it began to blow fo flrong THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 393 ftrong from this quarter, that we were forced to clofe-reeve im- • 1 n • r • October. again ; and, at noon, the wind Ihifting two points to the Weft, rendered it vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and fleered to the Southward. At this time, our latitude, by obfervation, was 44* 12', and longi- tude 150* 40' ; fo that, after all our efforts, we had the mor- tification to find ourfelves, according to the Ruffian charts, upon a meridian with Nadeegfda, which they make the Southernmoft of the Kurile iflands, and about twenty leagues to the Southward. But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the laft fix days, prevented our getting in with thefe iflands, yet the courfe we had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For the group of iflands, confiding of the Three Sillers, Kunafhir and Zel- lany, which, in D'Anville's maps, are placed in the track we hadjuft crofled; being, by this means, demonftratively removed from that fituation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the Weftward, where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 142* and 147°. But as this fpace is occupied, in the French charts by part of the fup- pofed land of Jefo and Staten Ifland, Mr. Mullcr's opinion be- comes extremely probable, that they are all the fame lands ; and as no reafons appear for doubting Spanberg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to reinftate the Three Sifters, Zellany, and Kunafhir, in their proper fitua- tion, and have entirely omitted the reft. When the Reader recollects the manner in which the Ruffians have multiplied the iflands of the Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real fituation, and the defire men naturally feel of propagating new difcoveries, he will not be furprized, that the fame caufes mould produce the Vol. III. 3 E fame 394- A VOYAGE TO «77?- fame effects. It is thus that the Jefoian lands, which ap- i, L-°-er'j. pear, both from the accounts of the Japanefe, and the earlieft Ruffian traditions, to be no other than the Southern Kurile iflands, have been fuppofed diftinct from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record ; and was origi- nally placed nearly in the fame fituation with thofe juft mentioned ; but was removed, as has been already fuggeft- ed, to make room for Staten Ifland, and the Company's Land j and as Jefo, and the Southernmost of the Kuriles, had alfo pofleffion of this fpace, that nothing might be loft, they were provided for, the former a little to the Weftward, and the latter to the Eaftward. As the iflands of Zellany and Kunafhir, according to the Ruffian charts, were flill to the Southward, we were not without hopes of being able to make them, and therefore kept our head as much to the Weftward as the wind would weJnef. 2c. permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 430 47', and longitude 150° 30'; and, (leering Weft by South, with a moderate breeze from South Eaft, and probably not more than twenty-four leagues to the Eaftward of Zellany, when our good fortune again deferted us. For, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the wind veering round to the North Weil, began to blow fo ftrong, that we were brought under our forefail and mizen day-fail. We had very heavy {quails, and hard rain during the next twenty-four hours , after which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather rowing moderate, we were enabled to fet the topfails ; but the wind, ftill continuing to blow from the North Weil, baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us, at laft, to give up all further thoughts of difcovery to the North of Japan. We fubmitted to this difappointment with the greater reluctance, as the accounts that arc given of the inhabitant- THE PACIFIC OCEAN. oyj inhabitants of thefe iflands, mentioned at the end of the '779- Ottober. laft Chapter, had excited in us the greater curiofity to vifit ^— v— . them. In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Refolution's fore- top-fail gave way, and fplit the fail. As this accident had often happened to us in Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach-ropes of the topfails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their ftead ; and as thefe alfo proved unequal to the ftrain that was on them, it is evident, that the proper proportion of flrcngth between thofe ropes and the fail is exceedingly mifcalculatcd in our fervice. This day a land-bird perched on the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a fparrow, but, in other refpeets, very like one. The gale now abated gradually ; fo that, in the morning of the 22d, we let out the reefs of the topfails, and made Friday 22. more fail. At noon, we were in latitude 400 58', and lon- gitude 1480 17' ; the variation 30 Eaft. In the afternoon, an- other little wanderer from the land pitched on the fhip, and was Co worn out with fatigue, that it fuflcred itfelf to be taken immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren, had a tuft of yellow fea- thers on its head, and the reft of its plumage like that of the linnet. The fparrow, being ftronger, lived a long time. Thefe birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any great diftance from the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at North, our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the Weft North Weft, in which direction, the Southernmoft iflands, feen by Spanberg, and faid to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the diftance of about fifty leagues. But the wind not keeping 3 E 2 pace 396 A VOYAGE TO •7:9- O&ober. Saturday 23. Sunday 24. Monday 25. pace with our wifhes, blew in fuch light airs, that we made little way, till eight the next morning, when we had a frefh- breeze from the South South Weft, with which we conti- nued to fteer Weil North Weft till the evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40* 35', longitude 14.60 45' ; the latter de- duced from feveral lunar obfervations taken during the night. The variation of the needle we found to be 17' Eaft. In the evening, we had ftrong fqually gales attended with rain, and having paffed, in the courfe of the day, feveral patches of green grafs, and feen a fhag, many fmali land birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all thefe figns of the vicinity of land, to ftand on during the whole night. We therefore tacked at midnight, and fleered a few hours to the South Eaft, and at four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our courfe to the Weft; North Weft, and carried a prefs of fail till feven in the even- ing, when the wind fhifted from South South Weft to- North, and blew a frefh gale. At this time we were in the latitude of 400 57', and the longitude of 1458 20'. This fecond difappointment, in our endeavours to get to the North Weft, together with the boifterous weather we had met with, and the little likelihood, at this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our views, were Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther iearch for the iflands to the North of Japan, and for fhap- ing a courfe Weft South Weft, for the North part of that ifland. In the night, the wind fhifted to the North Eaft, and blew a frefh gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th, brought us to the latitude of 40" 18', in the longitude 144* o'. To-day we faw flights, of wild ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds, _t»:...-« t tfy , • - ■ - -•••• ■|;-|--|-Y'--|"^ o — I r 14 I ■!--|--|--i-=e: 14J 14 6 4T • >:> *2_ :uj 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 . , 146 THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 397 birds, like linnets, flew about us with a decree of vigour '779- ° ° G&ober. that feemed to prove, they had not been long upon the < «— -». wing. We alfo pafTed patches of long grafs, and a piece either of fugar-cane or bamboo. Thefe figns, that land was at no great diftance, induced us to try for foundings ; but we found no ground with ninety fathoms of line. Toward evening, the wind by degrees fhifted round to the South, with which we ftill kept on to the Weft South Weft ; and at day-break of the 26th, we had the pleafure of defcrying Tuefdayi6, high land to the Weftward, which proved to be Japan. At eight, it extended from North Weft to South by Weft, diftant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore North Weft three-quarters Weft, and feemed to make the South part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the South extreme, a conical fliaped hill bore South by Weft three-quarters Weft. To the Northward of this hill there appeared to be a very deep in- let, the North fide of the entrance into which is formed by a low point of land, and, as well as we could judge by our glaffes, has a fmall ifland near it to the Southward. We flood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, bearing Weft three-quarters South, and had foundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very fine fand. We now tacked and flood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we had got no farther than three leagues from the coaft, which extended from North Weft by North three-quarters Weft, to South half Eaft, and was, for the mod part, bold and cliffy. The low cape to the Northward bore North Weft by Weft, fix leagues diftant ; and the North point, of the inlet South, three-quarters Weft. The latitude, by observation, was 400 5', and longitude 142* 28'. The Nonhernmoft land in fight, we judged to be the Northern^ 393 AVOYAGETO «779- Northern extremity of Japan*. It is lower than any other i -. 1< part; and, from the range of the high lands that were feen over it from the maft-head, the coaft appeared evidently to incline round to the Weftward. The North point of the in- let we fuppofed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be fitu- ated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet feemed to direct itfelff. The country is of a moderate height, confifts of a double range of mountains ; it abounds with wood, and has a pleafing variety of hills and dales. We faw the fmoke of feveral towns or villages, and many houfes near the fliore, in pleafant and cultivated Ctuations. During the calm, being willing to make the bed ufe of our time, we put our fifhing lines overboard, in ten fathoms water, but without any fuccefs. As this was the only amufement our circumftances admitted, the difappoint- ment was always very fenfibly felr, and made us look back with regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had fupplicd us with fo many wholefome meals, and, by the diverfion they afforded, had given a variety to the wearifome fucceilion of gales and calms, and the tedi- ous repetition of the fame nautical oblcivations. At two in the afternoon, the breeze freshened from the Southward, and, by four, had brought us under clofc-rcefcd toplliils, * The only authentic furvey of the F.aftcrn coaft of Japan, with which I am ac- quainted, is that publifhed by Janfen in his Atlas, anJ compiled with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Callricom and Bra/kes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the fixations could be nearly ascertained, the names given in that map to the correfponding points and head- lands fecn by us along the coaft. Janfen places the- Northern extremity of Japan, in latitude 40' 15'. The point feen by us was in latitude 40' 27'. f This town is called by Janfon, Nabo. and THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 399 and obliged us to (land off to the South Eaft. In confe- '"9 quence of this courfe, and the hazinefsof the weather, the v. — , — _» land foon difappearcd. We kept on all night, and till eight the next morning, when the wind coming round to the Wednef. 27.. North, and growing moderate, we made ("ail, and (leered Weft South Weft, toward the land; but did not make it till three in the afternoon, when it extended from North Weft half Weft to Weft. Tiic Northernmoft extreme being a con- tinuation of the high land, which was the Southernmoft we had feen the day before ; the land to the Weft we conceived to be the Hofe Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Janfen. Between the two extremes, the coaft was low and fcarcely perceptible, except from the maft-head. We (lood on to- ward the coaft till eight, when we were about five leagues diftant ; and having (hortened fail for the night, (leered to the Southward, founding every four hours ; but never found ground with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. On the 28th, at fix in the morning, we again faw land, Thurfdayzs. twelve leagues to the Southward of that feen the preceding day, extending from Weft South Weft to Weft by North. We fleered South Weft obliquely with the fhore ; and, at ten, faw more land open to the South Weft. To the Weft- ward of this land, which is low and flat, are two iflands, as we judged, though fome doubts were entertained, whether they might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather, joined to our diftance, prevented us alfo from determining, whether there are any inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which feem here to prcmife good fhelter. At noon, the North extreme bore North Weft by North, and a high peaked hill, over a deep head-land, Weft by North, diftant live leagues. Our latitude at this sime, by obfervation, was 380 iG', longitude 142' 9'. The 1 mean 400 A VOYAGE TO >?79- mean of the variation, from obfervations taken both in the fore and afternoon, was i* 20' Eaft. — j At half paft three in the afternoon, we loll fight of the land ; and, from its breaking off fo fuddenly, conjectured, that what we had feen this day is an ifland, or, perhaps, a clutter of iflands, lying off the main land of Japan ; but as the iflands, called by Janfen the Schildpads, and by Mr. D'Anville Matfima, though laid down nearly in the fame fuuation, are not equal in extent to the land feen by us, we muft leave this point undecided. Having kept a South Weft courfe during the remaining part of the day, we found ourfelves, at midnight, in feventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark brown fand. We therefore hauled up Friday z9. to the Eaftward, till morning, when we faw the land again, about eleven leagues to the Southward of that which we had feen the day before; and at £ight,_ we were within fix or feven miles of the more, having carried in regular foundings from fixty-five to twenty fathoms, over coarfe fand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze over the land, which hindered our diftinguifhing fmall objects on it. The coaft is ftraight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a North and South direction. Toward the fea the ground is low, but rifes gradually into hills of a moderate height, whofe tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood. At nine o'clock, the wind fhifting to the Southward, and the Iky lowring, we tacked and flood off to the Eaft, and foon after, we faw a veffel, clofe in with the land, Handing along the more to the Northward, and another in the ofling, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind, belonging to a country fo famous, and yet fo little known, it will be cafily conceived, muft have excited a general curi- 7 ofity, October. ■v- -I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ofity, and accordingly every foul on board was upon deck "79 in an inftant, to gaze at them. As the vcflel to windward approached us, fhe hauled farther off more ; upon which, fearing that we mould alarm them by the appearance of a purfuit, we brought the mips to, and me pa/fed ahead of us, at the diftance of about half a mile. It would have been eafy for us to have fpoken with them ; but perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened, Cap- tain Gore was not willing to augment their terrors ; and, thinking that we fliould have many better opportunities of communication with this people, fuiTered them to go off without interruption. Our diftance did not permit us to re- mark any particulars regarding the men on board, who feemed to be about fix in number, efpecially as the hazinefs of the weather precluded the ufe of ourglaffes. According to the beft conjectures we were able to form, the veffel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mart, on which was hoifted a fquare fail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked forward. Half-way down the fail, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal distances from each other. The vefTel was higher at each end than in the midfhip ; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was impoffible for her to fail any otherwife than large. At noon, the wind frefhened, and brought with it a good deal of rain ; by three, it had increafed fo much, that we were reduced to our courfes ; at the fame time, the fea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to have feen it. If the Japanefe vefTels are, as Kaimpfer defcribes them, open in the ftern, it would not have been poffible for thofe we faw, to have furvived the fury of this ftorm ; but as the appearance of the weather, all the preceding part of the Vol. III. 3 F day, 431 4o<. A VOYAGE TO >779- Oaober day, foretold its coming, and one of the iloops had, not- withfianding, flood far oat to fea, we may fafely conclude, that they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed defcribes two kinds of Japanefe vefTels ; one anfwering to the above defcription of Kctmpfer; the other, which he calls bufTcs, and in which, he fays, they make their voyages to the neighbouring ifhnds, exactly correfponds with thofe we faw *, At eight in the evening, the gale fhifted to the Weft, with- out abating the lead in violence, and by raifing a fudden fwell, in a contrary direction to that which prevailed before, occafioned the mips to ftrain and labour exceedingly. Dur- ing the dorm, fevcral of the fails were fplit on board the Refolution. Indeed they had been fo long bent, and were worn fo thin, that this accident had of late happened to us almoft daily, in both mips ; efpecially when being fliff and heavy with the rain, they became lefs able to bear the fhocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time ex- perienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and fettling to the Weft, we kept upon a wind to the Southward; Saturday 30. and at nine in the morning of the 30th, we faw the land, at the diilance of about fifteen leagues, bearing from Weft by North to North Weft one quarter Weft. It appeared in detached parts ; but whether they were fmall illands, or parts of Japan, our diftancc did not enable us to determine. At noon, it extended from North Weft to Weft, the nearelt land being about thirteen leagues diftant, beyond which the coaft fcemed to run in a Wefterly direction. The lati- tude, by obfervation, was 360 41', longitude 142° 6'. The point to the Northward, which was fuppofed to be near the Vide Muller, Fr. ed. .page 215. Southernmost THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4o; Southernmoft land feen the day before, we conjectured to '779- be Cape de Kennis, and the break, to the Southward of this * „ < point, to be the mouth of the river on which the town of Gillima is faid to be fituated. The next cape is probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point, and the Southernmoft, off which we were abreaft at noon, we fup- pofe to be near Low Point*, and that we were at too great a diftance to fee the low land, in which it probably termi- nates, to the Eaftward. In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the North Eaft, we flood to the Southward, at the diftance of about eighteen leagues from the more, trying for foundings, as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and fif- teen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it fhifted to Sunday 3!. Wed, attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy fqualls. During the courfe of the day, we had Several fmall birds of a brown plumage, refembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced ofF the land by the flrong Wcft- erly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the North Weft, we fhaped our courfe, along with them, to Weft South Weft, in order to regain the coaft. In tire morn- ing of the ift of November, the wind again fhifted to South November. Eafl, and bringing with it fair weather, we got forty-two fets of diftances of the moon from the fun and ftars, with four different quadrants, each let confiding of fix obferva- tions ; thefe agreeing pretty nearly with each other, fix our fituation at noon the fame day, with great accuracy, in longitude 141° 32', the latitude, by obfervation, was 350 17'. We found an error of latitude, in our reckonings of the pre- ceding day, of eight miles, and in this day's of feventeen ; * Lap Honk, or Low Point, is placed by Janfen in latitude 360 40'. 3 F q from Monday 1. 404 A VOYAGE TO «779« from whence, and from our being much more to the Eaff- ^ ', ward than we expected, we concluded, that there had been a ftrong current from the South Weft. At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the Weftward, at the diftance of about twelve leagues; the Southernmoft land in fight, which we fuppofed to be White Point*, bore Weft South Weft half Weft ; a hummock to the Northward, which had the appearance of being an ifland, bore North North Weft half Weft, within which we faw from the maft-head low land, which we took to be Sand- down Pointf. We flood in toward the land, till half paft five, when we hauled our wind to the Southward. At this time we faw a number of Japanefe veffels, clofe in with the land, feveral feemingly engaged in fifhing, and others (land- ing along fhore. We now difcovered to the Weftward a re- markably high mountain, with a round top, rifing far in- land. There is no high ground near it, the coaft being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could judge, from the hazinefs of the horizon, much broken by fmall inlets. But to the Southward of the hummock ifland before mentioned, there appeared, at a great diftance, within the country, a ridge of hills, ftrctching in a dirciftion toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the moft remarkable 1 1 ill on the coaft, we could have wifhed to have fettled its iituation cxaftly ; but having only had this fingle view, were obliged to be contented with mch accuracy as our circum- ftanccs would allow. Its latitude therefore we conceive to be 350 2&', its longitude, eilimatcd by its diftance from the fhips, at this time fifteen leagues, 1400 26'. * WttU Hoeck, placed by Janfen in latitude 350 24'. Saniujntgt Hotcf, in LuUude 350 55'. Janfen. i As THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 405 As the Dutch charts make the coaft of Japan extend about '779- F November. ten leagues to the South Weft of White Point, at eight we « 1 tacked, and flood off to the Eaftward, in order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to the South Weft, expecting to fall in with the coaft to the Southward, but were furprized, in the morning at eight, to fee the Tuefdayz. hummock, at the diilance only of three leagues, bear- ing Weft North Weft. We began, at firft, to doubt the evi- dence of our fenfes, and afterward to fufpect fome decep- tion from a fimilarity of land ; but, at noon, we found our- felves, by obfervation, to be actually in latitude 35° 43', at a time when our reckonings gave us 340 48'. So that, during the eight hours in which we fuppofed we had made a courfe of nine leagues to the South Weft, we had in reality been carried eight leagues from the pofition we left, in a direction diametrically oppofite ; which made, on the whole, in that fhort fpace of time, a difference, in our reckoning, of feventeen leagues. From this error, we cal- culated, that the current had fet to the North Eaft by North, at the rate of at leaft five miles an hour. Our longitude, at this time, was 1410 16'. The weather having now the fame threatening appear- ance as on the 29th of October, which was followed by fo fudden and fevere a gale, and the wind continuing at South South Eaft, it was thought prudent to leave the fhore, and ftand off to the Eaftward, to prevent our being entangled with the land. Nor were we wrong in our prognoftica- tions ; for it foon afterward began, and continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we found our- Wednef, - felves, by our reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land 3 which circumftance, together with the very extraor- dinary 4o6 AVOYAGETO '"79- dinary effect of currents we had before experienced, the November. ' * late feafon of the year, the unfettled ftate of the weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made Captain Gore refolve to leave Japan altogether, and profe- cute our voyage to China ; hoping, that as the track he meant to purfue had never yet been explored, he mould be able to make amends, by fome new dilcovery, for the dis- appointments we had met with on this coaft. If the reader mould be of opinion that we quitted this ob- ject too haftily, in addition to the facts already ftated, it ought to be remarked, Kxmpfcr defcribes the coaft of Ja- pan as the moft dangerous in the whole world*; that it would have been equally dangerous, in cafe of diftrefs, to run into any of their harbours ; where we know, from the beft authorities, that the averfion of the inhabitants to any intercourfe with Grangers, has led them to commit the mod atrocious barbarities ; that our mips were in a leaky condition ; that our fails were worn out, and unable to withftand a gale of wind ; and that the rigging was fo rotten as to require condant and perpetual repairs. As the ftrong currents, which fet along the Eaflern coaft of Japan, may be of dangerous confcqucnce to the navi- gator, who is not aware of their extraordinary rapidity, I mall take leave of this ifland, with a fummary account of their force and direction, as obferved by us from the ift to the 3th of November. On the ift, at which time we were about eighteen leagues to the Eafhvard of White Point, the current fet North Eaft and by North, at the rate of three miles an hour ; on the 2d, as we approached the more, we * Sec Kasmpfcr's Hid. of Japan, Vol. I. p. 92, 93, 94, and 102. found THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 407 found it continuing in the fame direction, but increafed in -vl?79- November. its rapidity to five miles an hour; as we left the fhore it > ^— - > again became more moderate and inclined to the Eaftward; on the 3d, at the diftance of fixty leagues, it fet to the Eaft North Eaft, three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the Southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its direction was South Eaft, and its rate not more than a mile and half an hour : on the 6th and 7th, it again fhiftcd round to the North Eaft, its force gra- dually diminifliing till the 8th ; when we could no longer perceive any at all. During the 4th and 5th, we continued our courfe to the Thurfday^. South Eaft, having very unfettled weather, attended with n ay 5' much lightning and rain. On both days we pafTed great quantities of pumice ftone, feveral pieces of which we took up and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that thefe ftones had been thrown into the fea, by eruptions of various dates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the fame time, we faw two wild ducks, and feveral fmall land birds, and had many porpuffes playing round us. On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our courfe to the Saturdays, South South Weft; but at eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to fleer to the South Eaft. On the 7th, at noon, we faw a fmall land bird, our latitude, by Sunday 7. obfervation at this this time, being 330 52', and longitude 1480 43'. On the 9th, we were in latitude 31* 46', longitude Tuefday9. 1460 20', when we again faw a fmall land bird, a tropic bird, porpuffes, flying fifties, and had a great fwell from the Eaft South Eaft. We continued our courfe to the South Weft, having the winds from the Northward, without any 3 remarkable 4o8 A VOYAGE' TO "779- remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when we had a mod v._!^!!L-J violent gale of wind from the fame quarter, which reduced Friday 12. us ro ^ fOTC.fa\\t ancj mizen ftay-fail ; and, as the weather was fo hazy, that we were not able to fee a cable's length before us, and many fhoals and fmall iflands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we brought to, with our heads to the South Weft. At noon, the latitude, by ac- count, was 270 36', longitude 1440 25'. In the morning of Saturday 13. thc 13th, the wind fhifting round to the North Weft, brought with it fair weather; but though we were at this time nearly in the fituation given to the ifland of St. Juan, we faw no appearance of land. We now bore away to the South Weft, and fet the top-fails, the gale ftill continuing with great violence. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 260 o\ longitude 1430 40', and variation 30 50' Eaft. In the afternoon, we faw flying fifh, and dolphins, alfo tropic birds, and albatrofTes. We ftill continued to pafs much pumice ftone : indeed, the prodigious quantities of this fub- ftance, which float in the fea, between Japan and the Bafhee Iflands, fecm to indicate, that fome great volcanic convul- fion mud have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean; and, confequently, give fome degree of probability to the opinion of Mr. Muller, which I have already had occafion to mention, refpecYmg the feparation of the continent of Jefo, and the difappearance of Company's Land, and Staten Ifland. At fix in the afternoon, we altered our courfe to the Weft South Weft, Captain Gore judging it ufelefs to fleer any longer to the South South Weft, as we were near the meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Iflands, and at no great diflance from Sunday h the track of the Manilla fhips. In the morning of the 14th, the >9 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4-cg the weather became fine, and the wind, which was mode- '779- November. rate, gradually mined to the North Eaft, and proved to be «- — ,— —• the trade wind. At ten, Mr. Trevenen, one of the young gentlemen who came along with me into the Difco- very, faw land appearing, like a peaked mountain, and bearing South Weft. At noon, the latitude, by obferva- tion, was 240 37', longitude 1420 2'. The land, which we now difcovered to be an ifland, bore South Weft half Weft, diftant eight or ten leagues; and at two in the afternoon, we faw another to the Weft North Weft. This fecond ifland, when feen at a diftance, has the appearance of two; the South point confifting of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the Northern land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater extent than the ifland to the South, we altered our courfe toward it. At four, it bore North Weft by Weft ; but, not having day light fuflicient to examine the coaft, we flood upon our tacks during the night. On the 15th, at fix in the morning, we bore away for the Monday 15. South point of the larger ifland, at which time we difco- vered another high ifland, bearing North three quarters Weft, the South ifland being on the fame rhomb line, and the South point of the ifland ahead, Weft by North. At nine, we were abreaft, and within a mile of the middle ifland, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without fome danger from the great furf that broke on the more, kept on his courfe to the Weftward. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 240 50', longitude 140' 56' Eaft. This ifland is about five miles long, in a North North Eaft, and South South Weft direction. The South point is Vol. III. 3 G a high 4io A VOYAGE TO 1779- a high barren hill, flattifh at the top, and when feen from the Weft South Weft, prefents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or fand, for it was not eafy to diftinguifh of which its furface is compofed, exhibited various colours, and a considerable part we conjectured to be fulphur, boh from its appearance to the eye, and the ftrong lulphureous fmell which we perceived, as we approached the point. Some of the oflicers on board the Resolution, which pafled nearer the land, thought they faw fleams rifing from the top of the hill. From thefe circumftances, Captain Gore gave it the name of Sulphur Ijland. A low, narrow, neck of land connects this hill with the South end of the ifland, which fpreads out into a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The part near the ifthmus has fome bufb.es on it, and has a green appearance, but thofe to the North Eaft are very barren, and full of large detached rocks, many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two miles and a half to the Eaft, and two miles to the Weft off the middle part of the ifland, on which the fea broke with great violence. The North and South iflands appeared to us as Angle mountains, of a confiderable height ; the former peaked, and of -a conical fhape ; the latter more fquare and flat at the top. Sulphur Ifland we place in latitude 24° 48', longi- tude 141* 12'. The North ifland in latitude 25* 14', lon- gitude 14 1° io'. The South ifland in latitude 240 22', and longitude 141° 20'. The variation obferved was 30 30' Eaft. Captain Core now directed his courfe to the Weft South Weft, for the Bafhee Iflands, hoping to procure, at them, fuch THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 411 fuch a fupply of refrefhments as would help to fhorten his *779- 1 l J * November, ftay in Macao. Thefe iflands were vifited by Dampier, * — v— — * who gives a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of the plenty of hogs and vege- tables, with which the country abounds : they were after- ward feen by Byron and Wallis, who palled them without landing. In order to extend our view in the day time, the mips fpread between two and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an eafy fail ; fo that it was fcarcely poflible to pafs any land that lay in the neighbourhood of our courfe. In this manner we pro- ceeded, without any occurrence worth remarking, with a frelh breeze from the North Eaft, till the 2 2d, when it in- Monday 22.' creafed to a ftrong gale, with violent fqualls of wind and rain, which brought us under clofe reefed top-fails. At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 210 $', Tuefday 23. and longitude 1230 20' ; at fix in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the Bafhee iflands, according to the fituation in Mr. Dalrymple's map, and the weather fqually attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the North North Weft, and handed the fore top-fail. During the whole of the 24th it rained incefTantly, and Wednef. 24. the wind ftill blew a ftorm ; a heavy fea rolled down on us from the North, and in the afternoon we had violent flafhes of lightning from the fame quarter. We continued upon a wind to the North North Weft till nine o'clock, when we tack-ed, and flood to the South South Eaft, till four in the morning of the 25th, and then wore. During the night, Thurfdayzs. there was an eclipie of the moon, but the rain prevented 3 G 2 our 41i AVOYAGETO «779- our making any obfervation ; unfortunately, at the time of November. , . the greateft darknefs, a ieaman, in flowing the main top- mad flay-fail, fell overboard, but laying hold of a rope, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains into the water, and the fhip being quickly brought in the wind, he was got on board without any other hurt than a flight bruife on his fhoulder. At eight, the weather clear- ing, we bore away, but the wind blew ftill fo ftrong that we carried no other fail than the fore-fail, and the main top-fail clofe reeft. About this time we faw a land bird re- fembling a thrufh, and a fugar cane ; at noon, the lati- tude, by obfervation, was 210 35', and longitude 121° 35'. As our fituation in longitude was now to the Weft of the Bafhee, according to Mr. Dalrymple's maps, I perceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the courfe he was fleer- ing, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain Wallis, with whom he failed when they patted thefe iflands. The former placing it near four degrees to the Welhvard, or in longitude 11 8° 14'. In confequence of this opinion, at two, we flood to the Southward, with a view of getting into the fame parallel of latitude with the iflands, before we ran down our longitude. At fix, we were nearly in that fituation, and consequently ought to have been in fight of land, according to Mr. Wallis's account, who places the Bafhees near three degrees more to the Eaftward than Mr, Byron The gale, at this time, had not in the leaft abated ; and Captain Gore, ftill conceiving that the iflands mull un- doubtedly lie to the Welhvard, brought the fhips to, with their heads to the North Wert, under the fore-fail and bal- lanced mizen. At THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 413 At fix in the morning of the 26th, the wind having con- '779- 0 November. fiderably abated, we bore away Weft ; fet the top-fails, and ' > ' Friday 26. let out the reers. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 21° 12', and longitude 1200 25'. We faw, this day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic birds, alio dolphins and por- piifTes, and Mill continued to pafs feveral pumice ftones. V e fpent the night upon our tacks, and, at fix in the morning of the 27th, again bore away Weft in fearch of the Saturday 27. Bafliees. I now began to be a little apprehenfive, left in fearching for thofe iflands, we mould get fo much to the Southward as to be obliged to pafs to leeward of the Pratas In this cafe, it might have been exceedingly difficult for fuch bad failing mips as ours to fetch Macao, particularly mould the wind continue to blow, as it now did, rrom the North North Eaft and North. As I had fome doubts whether Mr Dalrymple's charts were on board the Refolution, I made fail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore with the pofition of thele (hoals, and my apprehenfions of being driven to the Southward, he informed me that he fliould continue on his courfe for rhe day, as he was ftill in hopes of finding Admi* ral Byron's longitude right ; and therefore ordered me to fpread a few miles to the South. At noon, the weather became hazy ; the latitude, by reckoning, was 210 2', and longitude 118° 30'; and at fix-, having got to the Weftward of the Bafhees, by Mr. Byron's account, Caprain Gore hauled his wind to the North Weft, under an ealy fail, the wind blowing very ftrong, and there being every appearance of a dirty boifterous night. At four in the morning of the 28th, we faw the Refolution, then Sunday 2?.- half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately perceived breakers 414 A VOYAGE TO 1779- breakers clofe under our lee. At day-light, we favv the v .w_ ', ifland of Prata ; and at half pad fix we wore again, and Hood toward the fhoal, and finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we parTed the South fide, within a mile of the reef, we obferved two remaik.ible patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At noon, the latitude found by double altitudes was 20" 39', longitude ii6°45'. The ifland bore North three quarters Eaft, did ant three or four leagues. On the South Well fide of the reef, and near the South end of the ifland, we thought we faw, from the maft head, openings in the reef, which promifed fafe anchorage. The Prata fhoal is of a confiderable extent, being .fix leagues from Norrh to South, and flretching three or four leagues to the Eaftwai d of the ifland ; its limit to the Weft- ward we were not in a fituation to determine. The North Eaft extremity we place in latitude 20° 5 ', and longitude 1 1 70 ; and the South Weft in latitude ^o° 45', and longitude 60 / 44. For the remaining part of the day we carried a prefs of fail, and kept the wind, which was North Eaft by North, in order to fecure our paflageto Macao. It was fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points more to the Eaft; for had the wind and weather continued the fame as during the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in which cafe we mull have born away for Batavia ; a place we all dreaded exceedingly, from the fad havoc the unheilthinefs of the climate had made in the crews of the former fhips that had been out on difcovery, and had touched there. In THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 415 In the forenoon of the 29th, we patted feveral Chinefe fifh- »779« , * , . , , . —. November. mg boats, who eyed us with great indifference. They fifh — - » with a large dredge-net, fliaped like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its mouth. The nee is made fad with cords to the head and flern of the boat, which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it, with the iron part dragging along the bottom We were forry to find the fea covered with the wrecks of boats that had been loft, as we conjectured, in the late boifterous wea- ther. At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 22° 1', having run one hundred and ten miles upon a North Weft courfe fince the preceding noon. Being now nearly in the latitude of the Lema Iflands, we bore away Weft by North, and, after running twenty-two miles, faw one of them nine or ten leagues to the Weftward. At fix, the extremes of the iflands in fight bore North North Weft half Weft, and Weft North Weft half Weft ; diftant from the neareft four or five leagues ; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a foft muddy bottom. We now fhortcned fail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr. Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Ifland, North 6o° Weft, one hun- dred and fifty-three miles ; and by our run, North 570 Weft, one hundred and forty-fix miles. In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Ifles, Tuefday . which, like all the other iflands on this coaft, are without wood, and, as far as we could obferve, without cultivation. At feven o'clock, we had precifely the ferae view of thefe iflands, as is reprefented in a plate of Lord Anfon's voyage. At nine o'clock, a Chinefe boat, which had been before with the Refolution, came along-fide, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which however we declined, as it was 4 our . A V O Y A G E T O '7-0; our bufinefs to follow our confort. We foon after patted 1 1 vc_ '. the rock marked R, in Lord Anfon's Plate; but, inftead of hauling up to the Northward of the grand Ladrone Iiland, as was done in the Centurion, we proceeded to leeward. It is hardly necefTary to caution the mariner not to take this courfe, as the danger is fufficiently obvious ; for fhould the wind blow ftrong, and the current fct with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao. Indeed we might, with great fafety, by the direction of Mr. Dalrymple's map, have gone either intirely to the North of the Lema ifles, or between them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of miffing this port, and being forced to Batavia, added to the ftrong and eager defires of hearing news from Europe, made us rejoice to fee the Rcfolution foon after fire a gun, and hoift her colours as a fignal for a pilot. On repeating the fignal, we faw an excellent race between four Chirrefe boats ; and Captain Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived firfl, to carry the fhip to the Typa, for thirty dollars, fent me word, that, as we could eafily fol- low, that expence might be faved to us. Soon after, a fe- cond pilot getting on board the Rcfolution, infifted on con- dueling the fhip, and, without further ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the fails to be trimmed. This occafioned a violent difputc, which at laft was compro- mifed, by their agreeing to go mares in the money. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 21* 57' North, and longitude 114° 2' Eaft ; the grand Ladrone ifland extending from North Weft half North, to North half Weft, diftant four miles. The land of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be one ifland ; but afterward found the Weftern part to be the ifland marked z in Mr. Dalrymple's 6 chart THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 417 chart of part of the coaft of China, &c. which, at that time, x779- we unfortunately had not on board. In obedience to the inftructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of Admiralty, it now became neceffary to demand of the officers and men their Journals, and what other papers they might have in their poffeflion, relating to the hiftory of our voyage. The execution of thefc orders feemed to require fome delicacy, as well as firmnefs. I could not be ignorant, that the greateft part of our officers, and feveral of the feamen, had amufed themfclves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own private fatis fact ion, or that of their friends, which they might be unwilling, in their prefent form, to have Submitted to the inspection of Strangers. On the other hand, I could nor, confidently with the inftructions we had received, leave in their cuftody papers, which, either from careleSTnefs or de- Sign, might fall into the hands of printers, and give rife to fpurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the dis- credit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who, though innocent, might be SuSpected of having been the authors of fuch publications. As foon, therefore, as I had aflembled the fhip's company on deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and the reafons which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the fame time, I told them, that any papers which they were defirous not to have fent to the Admiralty, mould be fealed up in their prefence, and kept in my own cuftody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the publication of the Hiftory of the Voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they mould faithfully be re- Stored back to them. Vol. III. 3 H Tt 4l8 AVOYAGETO 1779- It is with the greatefl: fatisfaction I can relate, that my propofals met with the approbation, and the cheerful com- pliance both of the officers and men ; and I am perfuaded, that every fcrap of paper, containing any t ran factions re- lating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed it is doing bare juftice to the feamen of this fhip to declare, that they were the mod obedient, and the belt difpofed men I ever knew, though almoft all of them were very young, and had never before ferved in a fhip of war. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4*9 CHAP. IX. Working up to Macao. — A Chinefe Comprador. — Sent on Shore to vifet the Portuguese Governor. — Effitls cf ' t/j\c Intelligence we received from Europe. — A?tchor in the Typa. — Pajfage up to Canton. — Bocca Tygris. — Wampd. — Defcription of a Sampane. — Reception at the Englijh Factory . — Inflance of the fufpicious Char abler of the Chinefe. — Of their Mode of trading. — Of the City of Canton. — Its Size. — Populatio?i. — Number of Sam- pa7ies. — Military Force. — Of the Streets and Houfes. — Vifit to a Chinefe. — Return to Macao. — Great De- mand for the Sea- otter Skins. — Plan of a Voyage for opening a Fur Trade on the Weflem Coafl of America^ and prof editing further Difcoveries in the Neighbour- hood of fapan. — Departure from Macao. — Price of Provifons in China. JE kept working to windward till fix in the evening, ^J/j* when we came to anchor, by the direction of the Chinefe pilot on board the Refolution, who imagined the tide was fetting againfl: us. In this, however; he was much deceived ; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it fet to the Northward till ten o'clock. The next morn- December ing he fell into a fimilar millakc ; for, at five, on the ap- pearance of flack water, he gave orders to get under way ; but the ignorance he had difcovcred, having put us on our 3 II 2 guard, November. Tuefday 30. Wednef, i. 420 A VOYAGE TO '779- guard, we chofe to be convinced, by our own obfervations, « ece,m "'« before we weighed ; and, on trying the tide, we found a ftrong under-tow, which obliged us to keep faft till eleven o'clock. From thefe circumftances it appears, that the tide had run down twelve hours. During the afternoon, we kept ftanding on our tacks, between the ifland of Potoe, and the Grand Ladrone, having pafTed to the Eaftward of the former. At nine o'clock, the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to anchor in fix fa- thoms water ; the town of Macao bearing North Weft, three leagues diflant ; and the illand of Potoe South half Weft, two leagues diftant. This ifland lies two leagues to the North North Weft of the illand marked Z in Mr. Dal- rymple's chart, which we, at firft, took to be part of the Grand Ladrone. It is fmall and rocky ; and off the Weft end there is faid to be foul ground, though we palled near it without perceiving any. Thurfdayz. in the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinefe contractors, who are called Compradors, went on board thcRefoIution, and fold to Captain Gore two hundred pounds weight of beef, to* gether with a confiderable quantity of greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable fhare of thefe articles was fent to the Difcovery ; and an agreement made with the man to furnifli us with a daily fupply, for which, however, he in- filled on being paid before-hand. Our pilot, pretending he could carry the mips no farther, Captain Gore was obliged to difcharge him, and we wer,e left to our own guidance. At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, we weighed, and worked to windward ; and, at feven, anchored in three 2 and tcu'tviices T&tinnq mto t/ic Harbour me Eoc3n open dftmffii Paint C vVniui I) . into Mr Tvpn Act/i me .uuit/i sAo/y on wtft'ti ' f/„ M.ni.itlrv V f/tr'<.< oi'tr Rockv 4| /// t/n line V.-.tAr/i .ttrtr for Shoal 4ft'"/' ij-J /// ,/ /iitAems iiwtrr . Hrhour i'/'M:u:io /.r t/nrrtrn />// /Ac /,'i/r • Souiiduiira OtArn nt low water . THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 421 and a half fathoms of water, Macao bearing Weft, three '779- miles diftant. This fituation was, indeed, very ineligible, being expofed to the North Eaft, and having fhoal water, not more than two fathoms and a half deep, to leeward; but as no nautical defcription is given in Lord Anfon's voy- age of the harbour in which the Centurion anchored, and Mr. Dalrymple's general map, which was the only one on board, was on too fmall a fcale to ferve for our direction, the mips were obliged to remain there all night. In the evening, Captain Gore fent me on more to vifit the Portugueze Governor, and to requeft his afliftance in pro- curing refrefhments for our crews, which he thought might be done on more reafonable terms than the Comprador would undertake to furnifh them. At the fame time, I took a lift of the naval ftorcs, of which both veflels were greatly in want, with an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the fervants of the Eaft India Com- pany, who were, at that time, refident there. On my ar- rival at the citadel, the fort-major informed me, that the Governor was fick, and not able to fee company^ but that we might be afTured of receiving every afliftance in their power. This, however, I underftood would be very incon- fiderable, as they were intirely dependent on the Chinefe, even for their daily fubftftence. Indeed, the anfwer returned to the firft requeft I made, gave me a fuflicient proof of the fallen ftate of the Portugueze power ; for, on my acquaint- ing the Major with my defire of proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that they could not venture to furnifh me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the Hoppo, or officer of the cuftoms ; and that the application for this purpofe muft be made to the Chinefe government at Canton. The 4-2 A VOYAGE TO >779- The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected December. ■_ .. - delay, could only be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had fo long waited for an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It often happens, that in the eager puriuit of an object, we overlook the eafieftand mod obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my cafe at prefent ; for I was returning under great dejection to the fhip, when the Portugueze officer, who attended me, afked me, if I did not mean to vifit the Englifh, gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what tranfport I received the information this queflion conveyed to me; nor the anxious hopes and fears, the conflict between curiofity and apprehenfion, which paffed in my mind, as we walked .to- ward the houfe of one of our countrymen. In this ftate of agitation, it was not furprifing, that our reception, though no way deficient in civility or kindnefs, mould appear cold and formal. In our inquiries, as far as they related to objects of private concern, we met, as was indeed to be expected, with little or no fatisfaction ; but the events of a public nature, which had happened fince our departure, and now, for the fir ft time, burft all at once upon us, overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for fome time, almoft without the power of reflection. For fcveral days we continued queftioning each other about the truth of what we had heard, as if defirous of fceking, in doubt and fufpencc, for that relief and confutation, which the reality of our calamities appeared totally to exclude. Thclc fenfaiions were facceeded by the mod poignant regret at finding ourfelves cut off, at fuch a diflance, from the fecne, where, we imagined, the fate of fleets and armies was every moment decidi The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 423 The intelligence we had jiift received of the flare of af- '"> lairs in Europe, made us the more exceedingly anxious to haflen our departure as much as poffible; and 1, therefore, renewed my attempt to procure a paflage to Canton, but without effect. The difficulty arifing from the eftablifhcd policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increafed by an incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain Panton, in the Seahorfe, a fhip of war of twenty-five guns, had been fent from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinefe mer- chants of Canton to private Britifh fubjects in the Eaft Indies and Europe, which, including the principal and com- pound interefl, amounted, I underllood, to near a million fterling. For this purpofe, he had orders to infill on an audience with the Viceroy of Canton, which, after fome delay, and not without recourfe being had to threats, was, at length, obtained. The anfwer he received, on the fub- jec~t of his miflion, was fair and fatisfactory ; but, imme- diately after his departure, an edict was fluck up on the houfes of the Europeans, and in the public places of the city, forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the fubjects of the emperor. This meafure had occafioned very fcrious alarms at Can- ton. The Chinefe merchants, who had incurred the debt, contrary to the commercial laws of their own country, and denied, in part, the juflice of the demand, were afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to Pckin ; and that the Emperor, who has the character of a jufl and rigid prince, might punifh them with the lofs of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the other hand, the Select Committee, to whom the caufe of the claimants was flrongly recom- mended by the Prefidency of Madras, were extremely ap- f prehenfive, 424 A VOYAGE TO '779- prehcnfive, left they fhould embroil themfelves with the ■L>ccem "'■ chinefe government at Canton ; and, by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable mifchief on the Company's affairs in China. For I was further informed, that the Mandarines were always ready to take occafion, even on the flighted grounds, to put a flop to their trading ; and that it was often with great difficulty, and never without certain ex- pence, that they could get fuch reftraints taken off. Thefe impofitions were daily increafing ; and, indeed, I found it a prevailing opinion, in all the European factories, that they fhould foon be reduced either to quit the commerce of that country, or to bear the fame indignities to which the Dutch are fubjected in Japan. The arrival of the Refolution and Difcovery, at fuch a time, could not fail of occafioning frelh alarms ; and, therefore, finding there was no probability of my proceed- ing to Canton, I difpatched a letter to the Englifli fuper- cargoes, to acquaint them with the caufe of our putting into the Tygris, to requeft their afliftance in procuring me a paffport, and in forwarding the ftorcs we wanted, of which I fent them a lift, as expeditioufly as poflible. Friday 3. The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who pointing out to us the fituation of the Typa ; we weighed at half paft fix, and flood toward it; but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in three and a half fathoms water ; Macao, bearing Weft North Weft, three miles diflant ; the Grand Ladronc South Eaft by South. The Refolution here falutcd thc-Portuguezc fort with eleven guns, which were returned by the fame number. Early on Saturday 4. tnc 4th> wc again weighed, and flood into the Typa, and moored witli the flrcani anchor and cable to the Weftward. The THE. PACIFIC OCEAN. 425 The Comprador, whom we at firft engaged with, having '779- difappeared with a finall fum of money, which had been « „— -t given him to purchafe provifions, we contracted with ano- ther, who continued to fupply both fhips, during our whole flay. This was done fecretly, and in the night time, under pretence, that it was contrary to the regulations of the port; but we fufpected all this caution to have been ufed with a view either of enhancing the price of the articles he furnifhed, or of fecuring tohimfelf the profits of his employment, with- out being obliged to fliare them with the Mandarines. On the 9th, Captain Gore received an anfwer from the ihurfday*). Committee of the Englifh Supercargoes at Canton, in which they ailured him, that their bed endeavours mould be ufed to procure the fupplies we flood in need of, as expeditioufly as pofliblc ; and that a pafTport mould be fent for one of his officers, hoping, at the fame time, that we were fufficiently acquainted with the character of the Chinefe Government, to attribute any delays, that might unavoidably happen, to their true caufe. The day following, an Englifli merchant, from one of our Friday 10. fettlcments in the Eaft-Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the afliftance of a few hands to navigate a veffel he had purchafed at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave orders that I fhould take along with me my Second Lieute- nant, the Lieutenant of marines, and ten feamen. Though this was not prccifcly the mode in which I could have wifhed to vifit Canton, yet as it was very uncertain when the pafTport might arrive, and my prefence might contri- bute materially to the expediting of our fupplies, I did not hefitate to put myfclf on board, having left orders with Mr. Vol. III. 3 I WilHamfon, 42& A VOYAGE TO 1779- December. Saturday 1 1 . Williamfon, to get the Difcovery ready for fea as foon as poflible, and to make fuch additions and alterations in her upper works, as might contribute to make her more defen- fible. That the feries of our aftronomical obfervations might fuffer no interruption by my abfence, I intruded the care of continuing them to Mr. Trevenen, in whofe abili- ties and diligence I could repofe an intire confidence. We left the harbour of Macao on the nth of December, and failing round the South Eaftern extremity of the ifland, we fleered to the Northward, leaving, as we pafTed along, Lantao Lintin, and feveral fmaller iflands, to the right. All thefc iflands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to the left, are-intirely without wood; the land is high and bar- ren, and uninhabited, except occafionally by fifhermen. As we approached the Bocca Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinefe coaft appears to the Eaftward in fteep white cliffs ; the two forts, commanding the mouth of the river, are exactly in the fame ftate as when Lord Anfon was here ; that on the left is a fine old caftle, furrounded by a grove of trees, and has an agreeable romantic ap- pearance. We were here vifited by an officer of the cuftoms ; on which occafion the owner of the vefTel, being apprehenfive that, if we were difcovered on board, it would occafion fome alarm, and might be attended with difagreeable confe- quences, begged us to retire into the cabin below. The breadth of the river above thefe forts is variable, the banks being low and flat, and fubject to be overflowed by the tide to a great extent. The ground on each fide is level, and laid out in rice fields ; but as we advanced, it rofe gra- dually into hills of confiderable declivity, the fides of which are THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 427 are cut into terraces, and planted with fweet potatoes, fugar- »779- r ° December. canes, yams, plantains, and the cotton-tree. We faw many < -— ' lofty pagodas, fcattered over the country, and feveral towns at a diftance, fome of which appeared to be of a confider- able fize. We did not arrive at Wampu, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca Tygris, till the 18th, our progrefs having Saturday is. been retarded by contrary winds, and the lighmefs of the veiTel. Wampu is a fmall Chinefe town, off which the ihips of the different nations, who trade here, lie, in order to take in their lading. The river, higher up, is faid by M. Sonnerat not to be deep enough to admit heavy laden vef- fels, even if the policy of the Chinefe had fuffercd the Eu- ropeans to navigate them up to Canton ; but this circum- flance I cannot take upon me to decide on, as no flranger, I believe, has been permitted to inform himfelf with cer- tainty of the truth. The fmall iflands, that lie oppofite to the town, are allotted to the feveral factories, who have built warehoufcs for the reception of the merchandize that is brought down from Canton. From Wampu, I immediately proceeded in a fampane, or Chinefe boat, to Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. Thefe boats are the neatefl and raoft convenient for paflengers I ever faw. They are of va- rious fizes, almofl flat at the bottom, very broad upon the beam, and narrow at the head and flern, which are raifed and ornamented ; the middle, where we fat, was arched over with a roof of bamboo, which may be raifed or low- ered at pleafure ; in the fides were fmall windows with mutters, and the apartment was furnifhed with hand fome mats, chairs, and tables. In the flern was placed a fmall 3 I 2 waxen 4^3 A VOYAGE TO DcStr. waxen idol> in a cafe of gilt leather, before which flood a * , ■ pot containing lighted tapers made of dry chips, or matches, and gum. The hire of this boat was a Spanifh dollar. I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the Englifh factory, where, though my arrival was very un- expected, I was received with every mark of attention and civility. The Select Committee, at this time, confided of Mr. Fitzhugh the Prcfident, Mr. Bevan and Mr. Rapier. They immediately gave me an account of fuch ftores as the India mips were able to afford us; and though I have not the fmallelt doubt, that the Commanders were defirous of affitting us with every thing they could fpare, confid- ently with a regard to their own fafety, and the intereft of their employers, yet it was a great difappointment to me to find in their lift fcarcely any articles of cordage or canvafs, of both which we flood principally in need. It was, how- ever, fome confolation to underftand, that the ftores were in readinefs for fhipping, and that the provifions we re- quired might be had at a day's notice. Wifhing therefore to make my flay here as fhort as poflible, I requeftcd the gentlemen to procure junks or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving Canton the following one ; but I wasfoon informed, that abufinefs of that kind was not to be tranfaeted fo rapidly in this country ; that leave muft be firft procured from the Viceroy ; that the Hopfo, or principal officer of the cufloms mud be applied to for chops, or per- mits ; and that thefe favours were not granted without ma- ture deliberation ; in fhort, that patience was an indifpcnfable virtue in China ; and that they hoped to have the plcafurc of making the factory agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I feemed willing to favour them with my company. Though THE' PACIFIC OCEAN. 429 Though I was not much difpofed to relifli this compli- j77q- 1 i- December. rrient, yet I could not help being diverted with an incident that occurred very opportunely to convince me of the truth of their reprefentations, and of the fufpicious character of the Chinefe. The reader will recollect, that it was now about fifteen days fince Captain Gore had written to the factory, to defire their affiftance in procuring leave for one of his offi- cers to pafs to Canton, In confequcnce of this application, they had engaged one of the principal Chinefe merchants of the place, to intereit himfelf in our favour, and to folicit the bufinefs with the Viceroy. This perfon came to vifit the Prcfidcnt, whilft we were talking on the fubject, and with great fatisfaction and complacency in his countenance ac- quainted him, that he had at laft fucceeded in his applica- tions, and that a paffport for one of the officers of the Ladrone fhip (or pirate) would be ready in a few days. The Prefident immediately told him not to give himfelf any far- ther trouble, as the officer, pointing to me, was already ar- rived. It is impoiiible to defcribe the terror, which feized the old man on hearing this intelligence. Ilis head funk upon his breaft, and the fofa on which he was fitting fliook, from the violence of his agitation. Whether the Ladrone ihip was the object of his apprehenfions, or his own go- vernment, I could not difcover; but after continuing in this deplorable (late a few minutes, Mr. Bevan bade him not de- fpair, and recounted to him the manner in which 1 had paffed from Macao, the reafons of my journey to Canton, and my wifhes to leave it as foon as poffible. This laft circum- ftance feemed particularly agreeable to him, and gave me hopes, that I mould find him equally difpofed to haften my departure ; and yet, as foon as he had recovered the courage to fpeak, he began to recount the unavoidable delays that s would 43o AVOYAGETO >779- would occur in my bufinefs, the difficulty of gaining admit- tance to the Viceroy, the jealoufies and fufpicions of the Mandarines, refpecting our real defigns, which had rifen, he faid, to an extraordinary height, from the ftrange account we had given of ourfelves. After waiting feveral days, with great impatience, for the event of our application, without underftanding that the matter was at all advanced toward a conclufion, I applied to the Commander of an Englifh country fhip, who was to fail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and flores on board, and to lie to, if the weather mould permit, off Ma- cao, till we could fend boats to take them out of his fhip. At the fame time he apprized me of the danger there might be of his being driven with them out to fea. Whilft I was doubting what meafures to purfue, the Commander of ano- ther country fhip brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted me, that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver the flores we had pro- cured, at his own rifk, in the Typa. All our difficulties being thus removed, I had leifure to attend to the pur- chafe of our provifions and flores, which was completed on the 26th ; and the day following, the whole flock was fent on board. As Canton was likely to be the mod advantageous market for furs, I was defired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty fea-otters fkins, chiefly the property of our deceafed Commanders, and to difpole of them at the bed price 1 could procure; a commiffion, which gave me an op- portunity of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the Chinefe for trade. Having acquainted fome of the Jinglifh fupercargocs with thefc circumflanccs, I defired 2 them THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 431 them to recommend me to fome Chinefe merchant of credit _ 1779- December. and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and rea- fonable price. I was accordingly directed to a member of the Hong, a fociety of the principal merchants of the place, who being fully informed of the nature of the bufinefs, ap- peared fenfible of the delicacy of my fituation ; afTured me, I might depend on his integrity ; and that, in a cafe of this fort, he mould confider himfelf merely as an agent, without looking for any profit to himfelf. Having laid my goods before him, he examined them with great care, over and over again, and at laft told me, that he could not venture to offer more than three hundred dollars for them. As I knew from the price our fkins had fold for in Kamtfchatka, that he had not offered me one half their value, I found myfelf under the neceffity of driving a bargain. In my turn, I therefore demanded one thoufand ; my Chinefe then ad- vanced to five hundred ; then offered me a private prcfent of tea and porcelain, amounting to one hundred more ; then the fame fum in money ; and, laftly, rofe to feven hun- dred dollars, on which I fell to nine hundred. Here, each fide declaring he would not recede, we parted ; but the Chi- nefe foon returned with a lift of India goods, which he now propofed I mould take in exchange, and which, I was after- ward told, would have amounted in value, if honeflly de- livered, to double the fum he had before offered. Finding I did not choofe to deal in this mode, he propofed as his ultima- tum, that we mould divide the difference, which, being tired of the conteft, I confented to, and received che eight hundred dollars. The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left me little reafon to lament the very narrow limits, within which the policy of the Chinefe obliges every European at Canton, 432 AVOYAGETO '779- Canton to confine his curiofity. I fhould otherwifc have felt December. exceedingly tantalized with living under the walls of fo great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able to enter it. The account given of this place by Peres le Comte and Du Halde, are in every one's hand. The au- thors have lately been accufed of great exaggeration by M. Sonncrat ; for which reafon the following obfervations, collected from the information with which I have been obligingly furniflied by feveral Englilh. gentlemen, who were a long time refident at Canton, may not be unaccept- able to the Public. Canton, including the old and new town, and the fub- urbs, is about ten miles in circuit. With refpect to its po- pulation, if one may judge of the whole, from what is feen in the fuburbs, I mould conceive it to fall confiderably fhort of an European town of the fame magnitude. Le Comte cftimatcd the number of inhabitants at one million five hundred thoufand ; Du Haldc at one million; and M. Son- ncrat fays he has ascertained them to be no more than feventy-five thoufand*: but, as this gentleman has not fa- voured us with the grounds on which his calculation was founded ; and, befides, appears as defirous of depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinefc, as the Jefuits may be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of fome doubt. The following circumftanccs may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment with tolerable accuracy on this fubject. * J'ai vtrifii moi-meme, avee plufieurs ChTnois, la population de Canton, \:i!lc do Tartare, & de celle de Battaux, &c. dux Indei, &c. Par Al. Sop- n°rat, Tom. II. p. 14. A Chinefe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 43; A Chinefe houfe, undoubtedly, occupies more fpace than '779- is ufually taken up by houfes in Europe : but the proportion fuggefted by M. Sonnerat, of four or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this mould be added, that a great many houfes, in the fuburbs of Canton, are occu- pied, for commercial purpofes only, by merchants and rich tradefmen, whofe families live intirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinefe family appears to confiit, on an average, of more perfons than an European. A Mandarine, according to his rank and fubftance, has from five to twenty wives. A merchant, from three to five. One of this clafs at Canton, had, indeed, twenty-five wives, and thirty-fix children ; but this was mentioned to me as a very extraor- dinary inftance. An opulent tradefman has ufually two; and the lower clafs of people very rarely more than one. Their fervants are at leait double in number to thofe em- ployed by perfons of the fame condition in Europe. If, then, we fuppofe a Chinefe family one-third larger, and an European houfe two-thirds lefs, than each other, a Chinefe city will contain only half the number of inhabitants con- tained in a European town of the fame fize. Acccording to> thefe data, the city and fuburbs of Canton may probably contain about one hundred and fifty thoufand. With refpect to the number of inhabited Sampanes, I found different opinions were entertained ; but none placing them lower than forty thoufand. They are moored in rows clofe to each other, with a narrow pafTage, at intervals, for the boats to pafs up and down the river. As the Tygris, at Can- ton, is fomewhat wider than the Thames, at London ; and the whole river is covered in this manner for the extent of at lead a mile ; this account of their number does not ap- pear to me, in the leaft, exaggerated ; and if it be allowed, Vol. III. ? K the 434 AVOYAGETO •779- the number of inhabitants in the Sampanes alone (for each December. of them contains one family), mud amount to nearly three times the number fuppofed by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city. The military force of the province, of which Canton is- the capital, amounts to fifty thoufand men. It is faid that twenty thoufand are Rationed in and about the city ; and, as a proof of this, I was afTured, thar, on the occafion of fome diflurbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thou- fand men were drawn together within the fpace of a few hours. The ftreets are long, and mod of them narrow and irre- gular; but well paved with large ftones ; and, for the molt part, kept exceedingly, clean. The houfes are built of brick, one flory high, having generally two or three courts back- ward, in which are the ware-houfes for merchandize, and, in the houfes within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few of the meaneft fort are built of wood. The houfes belonging to the European factors, are buih on an handfome quay, with a regular facade of two ftories toward the river, and difpofed, within, partly after the Eu- ropean, and partly after the Chinefe manner. Adjoining to ihefe are a number of houfes, belonging to the Chinefe, and hired out to the commanders of fhips, and merchants, who make an occafional flay. As no European is allowed to bring his wife to Canton, the Englifh fupercargoes live together, at a common table, which is kept by the com- pany, and have each a feparate apartment, confiding of three or four rooms. The time of their rcfidence fcldom exceeds eight months annually; and as they are pretty con- ftantly employed, during that time, in the fcrvice of the company, _ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 435 company, they may fubmit, with the lefs regret, to the re- '779- *,, ° December. nraints they are kept under. They very rarely pay any vifits *• — » ' within the walls of Canton, except on public occafions. In- deed, nothing gave me fo unfavourable an idea of the cha- racter of the Chinefe, as to fino\ that amongft fo many per- fons of liberal minds, and amiable manners, fome of whom have refided in that country for near fifteen years together, they have never formed any friendship or focial connection. As foon as the laft fliip quits Wampu, they are all obliged to retire to Macao ; but, as a proof of the excellent police of the country, they leave all the money they pofTefs in fpecic behind them, which, I was told, fometimes amount- ed to one hundred thoufand pounds fterling, and for which they had no other fecurity than the feals of the merchants of the Hong, the viceroy, and Mandarines. During my flay at Canton, I was carried, by one of the Englifli gentlemen, to vifit a perfon of the fir ft confequence in the place. We were received in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which flood a table, with a large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from it on each fide down the room. Being previoufly inflructed, that the point of civility confifted in remaining as long unfeated as poflible, I readily acquitted myfelf of this piece of etiquette j after which we were entertained with tea, and fome pre- ferred and frefh fruits. Our hoft was very fat, with a heavy dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deport- ment. He fpoke a little broken Englifli and Portugueze ; and, after we had taken our refrefliment, he carried us about his houfe and garden ; and having fhewed us all the improvements he was making, we took our leave. 3 K 2 Having 43^ VOYAGE TO December. Having procured an account of the price of provifions at Canton, as fettled for the year 1780, which the reader will find at the end of this Chapter, I have only to obferve, that the different articles are fuppofed to be the bed of the kind; and that the natives purchafe the fame for nearly one- third lefs than the price, which in the lift ,is fixed only for ftrangers. I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of applying for paffports, as to fave the unneceffary expence of hiring a Sampane, which I underftood amounted at lead to twelve pounds fterling, to go along with the ftores to Macao, in the country merchant's fliip I have before mentioned : but having received an invitation from two Englifh gentlemen, who had obtained paffports for four, I accepted, along with Mr. Philips, their offer of places in a Chinefe boat, and left Mr. Lannyon to take care of the men and ftores, which were to fail the next day. In the evening of the 26th, 1 took my leave of the fupercargoes, having thanked them for their many obliging favours ; amongft which I mull not forget to mention an handfome prefent of tea, for the ufe of the fhips companies, and a large col- lection of Englifh periodical publications. The latter we found a valuable acquifition, as they both ferved to amufe our impatience, during our tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total ftrangers to what had been tranfacting in our native country. At one o'clock, the next morning, we left Canton, and arrived at Macao, about the Tuefday a8. fume hour the day following, having paffed down a chan- nel, which lies to the Wcftward of that by which we had come up. Sunday 26. Monday 27. During THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 437 During our abfence, a brifk trade had been carrying on l779- with the Chinefe, for the fea-otter fkins, which had, every day, been rifing in their value. One of our feamen fold his flock, alone, for eight hundred dollars ; and a few prime fkins, which were clean, and had been well preferved, were fold for one hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in fpecie and goods, that was got for the furs, in both mips, I am confident, did not fall fhort of two thoufand pounds fterling ; and it was generally fup- pofed, that at leafl two-thirds of the quantity we had origi- nally got from the Americans, were fpoiled and worn our, or had been given away, and othcrwife difpofed of, in Kamtfchatka. When, in addition to thefe facts, it is re- membered, that the furs were, at firft, collected without our having any idea of their real value ; that the greatefl part had been worn by the Indians, from whom we pur- chafed them ; that they were afterward preferved with lit- tle care, and frequently ufed for bed-clothes, and other purpofes, during our cruize to the North ; and that, proba- bly, we had never got the full value for them in China ; the advantages that might be derived from a voyage to that part of the American coaft, undertaken with commercial views, appear to me of a degree of importance fufficient to call for the attention of the Public. The rage with which our feamen were pofTefled to return to Cook's River, and, by another cargo of fkins, to make their fortunes, at one time, was not far fhort of mutiny ; and I muft own, I could not help indulging myfelf in a pro- ject, which the difappointment we had fuffered, in being obliged ro leave thejapanefe Archipelago, and the Northern coaft of China unexplored, firft fuggefted ; and, by what I conceived, that object might ftill be happily accomplifhed, 3 through 438 AVOYAGETO December tnrougn mcans of the Eaft-India Company, not only with- out expence, but even with the profpeet of very conGder- able advantages. Though the fituation of affairs at home, or perhaps greater difficulties in the execution of my fcheme than I had forefeen, have hitherto prevented its being car- ried into effect, yet, as I find the plan in my journal, and flill retain my partiality for it, I hope it will not be intirely foreign to the nature of this wTork, if I beg leave to infert it here. I propofed then, that the Company's China mips fhould carry an additional complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two veffels, one of two hundred and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, might, I was told, with proper notice, be readily purchafed at Canton ; and, as vic- tualling is not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate, that they might be completely fitted out for fea, witli a year's pay and provifion, for fix thoufand pounds, including the purchafe. The expence of the neceffary articles for barter is fcarcely worth mentioning. I would, by all means, re- commend, that each fhip fhould have five ton of unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert fmith, with a journeyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forge fuch tools, as it mould appear the Indians were mod defirous of. For though fix of the lined fkins purchafed by us, were got for a dozen large green glafs beads, yet it is well known, that the fancy of ihefe people for articles of ornament, is exceed- ingly capricious; and that iron is the only furc commodity for their market. To this might be added, a fewgrofsof large pointed cafe-knives, fome bales of coarfe woollen cloth (linen they would not accept of from us), and a barrel or two of copper and glafs trinkets. I have THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 439 I have here propofed two fhips, not only for the greater '7"9- r • c i i • • i i ' ,' . . _ fr-\, December. iecunty of the expedition, but becaufe I think fingle ihips ■. -.- ._■ ought never to be fent out on difcoveries. For where rifks are to be run, and doubtful and hazardous experiments tried, it cannot be expected that fingle fhips fhotild venture fo far, as where there is fome fecurity provided againfl an untoward accident. The veffels being now ready for fea, will fail with the fir ft South Wefterly monfoon, which generally fets in about the beginning of April. With this wind they will fleer to the Northward, along the coaft of China, beginning a more ac- curate furvey from the mouth of the river Kyana, or the Nankin River, in latitude 300, which I believe is the utmoft limit of this coaft hitherto vifited by European fhips. As the extent of that deep gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at prefent unknown, it muft be left to the difcretion of the Commander, to proceed up it as far as he may judge prudent ; but he muft be cautious not to entangle himfelf too far in it, left he mould want time for the profe- cution of the remaining part of his enterprize. The fame difcretion muft be ufed, when he arrives in the Straits of Tefibi, with refpccl: to the iftands of Jefo, which, if the wind and weather be favourable, he will not lofe the oppor- tunity of exploring. Having proceeded to the latitude of 510 40', where he wilt make the Southernmoft point of the iftand of Sagaleen, beyond which the fea of Okotfk is fufriciently known, he will fteer to the Southward, probably in the beginning of June, and endeavour to< fall in with the Southernmoft of the Kurile iiiands. Ouroop or Nadefchda, according to the accounts or the Ruffians, will furnifh the fhips with a good 2 harbour* 44° A VOYAGE TO '779- harbour, where they may wood and water, and take in fuch other refrefhments as the place may afford. Toward the end of June, they will fhape their courfe for the Shum- magins, and from thence to Cook's River, purchafing, as they proceed, as many fkins as they are able, without lofing too much time, fince they ought to fleer again to the Southward, and trace the coaft with great accuracy from the latitude of 560 to 500, the fpace from which we were driven out of fight of land by contrary winds. It mould here be remarked, thai I confider the purchafe of fkins, in this expedition, merely as a fecondary object, for defraying the expence ; and it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the prefent voyage, that two hundred and fifty fkins, worth one hundred dollars each, may be procured without any lofs of time ; efpecially as it is probable they will be met with along the coaft to the Southward of Cook's River. Having fpent three months on the coaft of America, they will fet out on their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding in their route, as much as poffible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now only to add, that if the fur trade fhould become a fixed object of Indian com- merce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing whatever may be left unfinished, in the voyage of which I have here ventured to delineate the outlines. The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinefe for our fea-otter fkins, had produced a very whimfical change in the drefs of all our crew. On our arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the younger officers and feamen ; for, as our voyage had already exceeded, by near a twelvemonth, the time it was at firlt imagined we mould remain at fea, almoft the whole of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 441 of our original flock of European clothes had been lon£ '779- December. worn out, or patched up with lkins, and the various manufac- ' * — j tures we had met with in the courfe of our difcoveries. Thefe were now again mixed and eked out with thcgaudieft filks and cottons of China. Oh the 30th, Mr. Lannyon arrived with the flores and Friday 30. provifions, which were immediately flowed in due propor- tion on board the two fhips. The next day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I fent our meet anchor to the country fhip, and received in return the guns, which flie before rode by. Whilfl we lay in the Typa, I was fhewn, in a garden be- longing to an Englifh gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the poet Camoens ufed to fit and compofe his Lufiad. It is a lofty arch, of one folid ftone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the rifing ground behind it. The rock is overfhadowed by large fpreading trees, and commands an extenfive and magnificent view of the fea, and the interfperfed iflands. On the nth of January, two feamen belonging to the 178°- Refolution found means to run off with a fix-oared cutter, Wednef.Tl. and notwithflanding diligent fearch was made, both that and the following day, we 'were never able to learn any tidings of her. It was fuppofed, that thefe people had been feduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to the fur iflands. As we heard nothing, during our flay in the Typa, of the meafurement of the fhips, it may be concluded, that the point fo flrongly contefled by the Chinefe, in Lord Anfon's time, has, in confequence of his firmnefs and refolution, never fince been infilled on. Vol. IIL 3 L The 442 21° i' o" A VOYAGE TO The following nautical observations were made while we lay here : Harbour of Macao, - Lat. 220 12' o" North. Long. 1 1 30 47' o" Eaft. Anchoring-place in the Typa. Lat. 220 9' 20" North. Long. 113° 48' 34" Eaft. Mean dip of the North pole of 1 the magnetic needle - J Variation of the compafs - - o° 1 9' o" Weft. On the full and change days it was high water in the Typa at 5" 15°, and in Macao harbour at 5" 50"". The greateft rife was fix feet one inch. The flood appeared to come from the South Eaftward; but we could not determine this point with certainty, on account of the great number of iflands which lie off the mouth of the river of Canton. Prices of Provijions at Canton , 1780. £. s. d. Ananas ."'■.-•.- Arrack - Butter - Beef, Canton Ditto, Macao Birds-nefts - Bifcuit - Beache de Mar Calf - Caravances, dried * A catty is 18 oz. — a pecul 100 catty. Cabbage, 0 4 0 a fcore. 0 0 8 per bottle. 0 0 4i per catty * 0 0 H 0 0 54 3 6 8 0 0 4 0 2 °$ i 6 9r each. 0 0 2» per catty. T HE PACIFIC OCEAN. 44, £- j. d. 1780. Cabbage, Nankeen Curry fluff - - o o O I 44 4 January. per catty. <. — r j Coffee O I 4 Cocoa-nuts o o 4 each. Charcoal - o 3 4 per pecul. Coxice - - - . . O I 4 per catty. Canton nuts o o 4 Chefnuts - o o r «4 Cockles ... o o 34 Ducks - o o .54 Ditto, wild - - 0 I °T each. Deers finews O 2 *4 per catty. Eels - o o 6f Eggs - O 2 o per hundred. Fifh, common o o 34 per catty. Ditto, bell - o o 64 Ditto falted, Nankeen, - . o o 9t Fruit - o o *4 Ditto, Nankeen O 2 o Frogs - O O *4 Flour - o o I-rV ; Fowls, capons, &c. o o 7r Fifh maws O 2 J4 Geefe - o o <>4 Greens - o o H Grafs - o o 24 per bundle. Grapes O I 04 per catty. Ham - O I 24 Hartfhorn ... O I 4 Hogflard - o o 7t Hog, alive - o o 44 $L 2 Kid 144 A VOYAGE TO 1780. January. ^ ^.^ Limes Litchis, dried Lockfoy Lobchocks Lamp oil Lamp wick Melons Milk Ditto, Macao Milliard feed Mufhrooms, pickled Ditto, frefh Oyllers Onions, dried Pork Pig Paddy Pepper Pheafants Partridges Pigeons Pomegranates Quails Rabbits Rice . Ditto, red Ditto, coarfe Ditto, Japan Raiiins Sheep : £. s. d. 0 0 44 per catty. 0 0 °4 0 0 *4 0 0 61 0 0 54 0 0 54 0 0 8 0 0 44. each. 0 0 «i per catty. 0 0 34 0 0 64 - 0 2 8 0 1 4 • 0 0 0 4 per pecuL 0 0 24 per catty. 0 .0 7t 0 0 54 0 0 o4 0 1 °4 0 S 4 each, c 0 94 0 0 54 0 0 0 * -T 0- 0 14 0 1 4 0 0 0 per catty. 0 0 24 0 0 14 0 0 8 0 2 0 3 6 8 each. Snipes THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 44^ Snipes - - - Stuigeon - - Ditto, i'mall - Sugar - Sale Saltpetre - - Soy Spices - Sweet-meats Sago - Sallad - Sharks fins - Samfui foy Teal Turtle - Tea Turmerick Tamarinds Vinegar - Vermicelli - Wax candles Walnuts - Wood - Water - - £. s. d. Rent of Poho Factory 400 o o ■ of Lunfoon - 316 13 4 Servants rice - o 8 o per month. Ditto, wages - o 19 24 per month for refiants. Servants 0 0 d. , per catty. 1780. January. 0 4 9r 0 a 44- j 0 0 3r 0 0 '4 0. 2 *4 0 0 ijt 0 16 8 0 0 S| 0 0 34 0 0 2'r 0 2 M 0 0 0 » m s 0 0 &4 each. 0 0 91 per catty. 0 2 0 0 0 2t 0 0 8 0 0 n 0 0 34 ° 3 O 0 0 44 0 1 4 per pecul. 0 6 3 per 100 B\ ■ per annum 446 AVOYAGETO 1780. Doll. January. _ /- -, Servants wages for? the feafon - S Stewards wages - 80 per annum. Butlers ditto - 80 Prices of Labour. £,- s. d. A coolee, or porter - o o 8 per day. A taylor - -005 and rice. A handicraftfman -008 A common labourer, from 3d. \o$d. A woman's labour confiderably cheaper. CHAP. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 447 CHAP. X. Leave the Typa. — Orders of the Court of France refpe&ing Captain Cook. — Refolutions in confequence thereof. — Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield Banks. — Pafs Pulo Sapata. — Steer for Pulo Con dor e. — Anchor at Pulo Condor e. — TranfaSlions during our Stay. — Journey to the principal 'Town. — Receive a Vifti from a Mandarin. — Examine his Letters. — Refrefhments to be procured. Defcription, and prefent State of the If and. — Its Pro- duce.— An AJfertion of M, Sonnerat refuted. — AJlrono- mica I and Nautical Ohfervations. ON the 1 2th of January, 17S0, at noon, we unmoored, 1780. and fcaled the guns, which, on board my fhip, now , Ja"uar>\ amounted to ten ; fo that, by means of four additional ports, Tlluirday»2- we could, if occafion required, fight feven on a fide. In like manner, the Refolution had increafed the number of her guns from twelve to fixteen ; and, in both mips, a flout barricade was carried round their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our fmall force as refpedlable an appearance as poflible. We thought it our duty to provide ourfelves with thefe means of defence, though we had fome reafon to believe, that the generofity of our enemies had, in a great meafure, rendered them fuperfluous. We were informed at Canton, that 443 AVOYAGETO •780. that the public prints, which had arrived lafl from Eng- «J — ,— — » land, made mention of instructions having been found on board all the French fhips of war, captured in Europe, di- recting their commanders, in cafe of falling in with the fhips that failed under the command of Captain Cook, to fuller them to proceed on their voyage without moleftation. The fame orders were alfo faid to have been given by the American congrefs to the veffcls employed in their fervice. As this intelligence was farther confirmed by the private letters of fevcral of the fupercargoes, Captain Gore thought himfelf bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to refrain from availing himfelf of any opportunities of capture, which thefe might afford, and to preferve, throughout his voyage, the flricteft neutra- lity. At two in the afternoon, having got under fail, the Refo- lution faluted the fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the fame number. At five, the wind dropping, the fliip milled ftays, ai.d drove into lhallow water ; but, by carrying out an anchor, fhe was hauled off without receiving the lmalleft damage. The weather con- tinuing calm, we were obliged to warp out into the en- trance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock, and Friday 13. ]ay there till nine the next morning ; when, by the help of a frefh breeze from the Ealt, we flood to the Southward between Potoe and Wungboo. At noon, we were faluted by a Swedifh fhip as flic pafTed us on her way to Europe. At four the Ladrone bore Eaft, diftant two leagues. We now fleered South half Eatl, with a frefh breeze from the Eaft North Eaft, without any occur- s^nday iS. rence worth remarking, till noon of the 15th ; when, being 4 in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 449 in latitude 18*57', and longitude 114*13', the wind veering '780. to the North, we directed our courfe half a point more to <~ — »—» the Eaftward, in order to flrike foundings over the Macclef- field Bank. This we effected at eight in the evening of the 1 6th, and found the depth of water to be fifty fathoms, Monday 16, over a bottom of white fand and fhells. This part of the Macclesfied Shoals we placed in latitude 150 51', and longi- tude ii4°ao'; which agrees very exactly with the pofition given in Mr. Dalrymple's map, whofe general accuracy, if it flood in need of any fupport, was confirmed, in this in- flance, by a great number of lunar obfervations, which we had an opportunity of making every day fince we left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, o° 39' Weft. On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the Eaft by North, TWday 17'. with a rough tumbling fea, and the weather overcaft and boifterous. On the 18th, the wind ftill continued to blow Wcdncf. is. ftrong, and the fea to run high, we altered our courfe to South Weft by South ; and, at noon, being in latitude 120 34', longitude 132°, we began to fleer a point more to the Weft- ward for Pulo Sapata, which we faw on the 19th, at four in Thurfdayi.j. the afternoon, bearing North Weft by Weft, about four leagues diflant. This fmall, high, barren ifland is called Sapata, from its refemblance of a fhoe. Our obfervations, compared with Mr. Bayly's time-keeper, place it in latitude io° 4' North, longitude 1090 10' Eaft. The gale had, at this time, increafed with fuch violence, and the fea ran fo high, as to oblige us to clofe-reef the topfails. During the laft three days, the fhips had outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a day, and, as we could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following fea, we imputed Vol. III. 3 M it 450 A VOYAGE TO *»78o- it in part to a current, which, according to my own calcu- v a""a-r>' • lations, had fet forty-two miles to the South South Weft, between the noon of the 1 9th, and the noon of the 20th ; and is taken into the account in determining the fituation of the ifland. After pafling Sapata, we fleered to the Weftward ; and at midnight founded, and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine fandy bottom. In the morning of the Iridayzo. 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we let out the reefs, and fleered Weft by South for Pulo Condore. At noon the latitude was 8° 46' North, longitude 1 060 45' Eaft ; and at half paft twelve we got fight of the ifland, bearing Weft. At four, the extremes of Pulo Condore, and the iflands that lie off it, bore South Eaft and South Weft by Weft; our diftance from the neareft iflands being two nriles. We kept to the North of the iflands, and flood for the harbour on the South Weft end of Condore, which, having its entrance from the North Weft, is the beft fheltered during the North Eaft monfoon. At fix, we anchored, with the beft bower, in fix fathoms, veered away two thirds of the cable, and kept the fhip Heady with a ftream anchor and cable to the South Eaft. When moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour bore North by Weft, and Weft North Weft one quarter Weft j the opening at the upper end South Eaft by Eaft three quarters Eaft ; our diftance from the neareft more a quarter of a mile. , As foon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view of apprifing the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the fhore, but without effect. Saturday 21. Early in the morning of the 21ft, parties were fent to cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal motive for 1 coming THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 451 coming hither. In the afternoon, a fudden guft of wind l7*°- 111/1 111 i'ii • r- January. broke the itream-cable, by which the Difcovery was riding, ; „ and obliged us to moor with the bower anchors. None of the natives having yet* made their appear- ance, notwithstanding a fecond gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it advifeable to land, and go in fearch of them, that no time might be loft in opening a trade forfuch provifions as the place could afford : with this view, he ap- pointed me to accompany him, in the morning of the 22d ; Sunday «. and, as the wind at this time blew ftrong from the Eaft, we did not think it prudent to coafl in our boats to the towm which is fituated in the Eaft fide of the ifland, but rowed round the North point of the harbour. We had proceeded about two miles along the more, when obferving a road that led into a wood, we landed. Here I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a Midfhipman, and four armed failors, and purfued the path, which feemed to point di- rectly acrofs the ifland. We proceeded through a thick wood, up a fteep hill, to the diftance of a mile, when, after defcending through a wood of the fame extent, on the other fide, we came out into a flat, open, fandy country, interfperfed with cultivated fpots of rice and tobacco, and groves of cabbage palm-trees, and cocoa-nut- trees. We here fpied two huts, fituated on the edge of the wood, to which we directed our courfe ; and before we came up to them, were defcried by two men, who immediately ran away from us, notwithftanding all the peaceable and fup- plicating geftures we could devife. On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to ftay without, left the fight of fo many armed men fiiould terrify the inha- bitants, whilft I entered and reconnoitred alone. I found, 3 M 3 in *;« A VOYAGE TO 1780. in one of the huts an elderly man, who was in a grear fright, and preparing to make off with the mod valuable of his effects that he could carry. However, I was fortu- nate enough, in a very little time, fo intirely to difpel his fears, that he came out, and called to the two men who were running away to return. The old man and I now foon came to a perfect underftanding. A few figns, parti- cularly that moft fignificant one of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great nura^ bcrs, left him without any doubts as to the real objects of our vifiu He pointed toward a place where the town flood, and made us comprehend, that by going thither, all our wants would be fupplied. By this time the young men, who had fled, were returned, and the old man or- dered one of them to conduct us to the town, as foon as an obftacle fhould be removed, of which we were not aware. On our firfl coming out of the wood, a herd of buffaloes, to the number of twenty at leaft, came running toward us, toiling up their heads, muffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner. They had followed us to the huts, and flood drawn up in a body, at a little diftance ; and the old man made us underfland, that it would be exceedingly dan- gerous for us to move, till they were driven into the woods; but fo enraged were the animals grown at the fight of us, that this was not effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The men, not being able to accomplish it, wc were furprized to fee them call to their affiflance a few little boys, who foon drove them out of fight. Afterward, wc had occafion to obferve, that in driving thefe animals, and fecuring them, which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is made in their noftrils, little boys were always cmployed> THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 45S employed, who could flroke and handle them with impu- »78°' ii in January. mty, at times when the men durfl not approach them. Haying got rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the town, which was at a mile's diflance ; the road to ic lying through a deep white fand. It is fituated near the fea-fide, at the bottom of a retired bay, which mufl afford a fafe road-flead during the prevalence of the South Well mon- foons. This town confifls of between twenty and thirty houfes* built clofe together ; befidea fix or feven others that are fcat- tered about the beach. The roof, the two ends, and the fide fronting the country, are neatly conflructed of reeds j the oppofite fide, facing the fea, is intirely open ; but, by means of a fort of bamboo fcreens, they can exclude or let in as much of the fun and air as they pleafe. We obferved, likewife, other large fcreens or partitions, for the purpofe of dividing, as occafion required, the fingle room of which the houfe, properly fpeaking, confifls, into feparate apart- ments. We were conducted to the largefl houfe in the town, be- longing to their Chief, or, as they called him, their Captain. This houfe had a room at each end, feparated by a parti- tion of reeds from the middle fpace, which was open on both fides, and provided with partition fcreens like the others. It had, befides, a penthoufe, projecting four or five feet beyond the roof, and running the whole length on each fide. At each end of the middle room were hung fome Chinefe paintings, reprefenting men and women in ludi- crous attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly defired to feat ourfelves on mats, and betel was prefented to us. 454 A VOYAGE TO t;8o. By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in fight, I had no difficulty in making a man, who feemed to be the principal perfon of the company, comprehend the main bufinefs of our errand ; and I as readily underftood from him, that the Chief, or Captain, was abfent, but would foon return ; and that, without his confent, no pur- chafes of any kind could be made. We availed ourfelves of the opportunity which this circumflance afforded us, to walk about the town ; and did not forget to fearch, though in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built by our countrymen near the fpot we were now upon, in 1702 *. On returning to the Captain's houfe, we were forry to find that he was not yet arrived; and the more fo, as the time was almoft elapfed which Captain Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were defirous we mould lengthen our flay ; they even propofed our palling the night there, and offered to accommodate us in the bed manner in their power. I had obfcrved, when we were in the houfe before, and now remarked it the more, that the man I have mentioned above, frequently retired into one of the end rooms, and (laid there fome little time, be- fore he anfwered the queflions that were put to him ; which led me to fufpeet that the Captain was all the time there, * The Englifli fettled here in the year 1702, when the factory of Chufan, on the coaft of China, was broken up, and brought with them fome Macaflar foldiers, who were hired to aflift in building a fort; but the prefident not fulfilling his engagement with them, they watched an opportunity, and one night murdered all the Englifh in the fort. Thofe without the fort, hearing a noife, took the alarm, and ran to their boats, very narrowly cfcaping with their lives, but not without much fatigue, hunger, and third, to the Johore dominions, where they were treated with great humanity. Some of thefe afterward went to form a fettlement at Benjar-Maflean, on the ifland of Borneo. Eajl India Direflory, p. 86. though, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 455 though, for reafons bed known to himfelf, he did not J78°- choofe to appear; and I was confirmed in this opinion, by being flopped as I was attempting to go into the room. At length, it clearly appeared that my fufpicions were well founded ; for, on our preparing to depart, the perfon who had fo often patted in and out, came from the room with a paper in his hand, and gave it to me to read ; and I was not a little furprized to find it a fort of a certificate in French, as follows : Pierre Joseph George, Eveque d'Adran, Vicaire Apoft. de Cochin China, &c. &c. Le petit Mandarin, porteur de cet e'crit, eft ve'ritablement Envoye de la cour a Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaiffeau European qui auroit fa deflination d'ap- procher ici. Le Capitaine, en confequence, pourroit fe fier ou pour conduire le vaifleau au port, ou pour faire pafTer les nouvelles qu'il pourroit croire ne'cefTaire. A Sai-Gon, PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, iod'Aouti779. A . Eveque d Adran. We returned the paper, with many proteftations of our being the Mandarin's good friends, begging he might be informed that we hoped he would do us the favour to vifit the mips, that we might convince him of it. We now took our leave, well fatisfied, on the whole, with what had paffed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper. Three of the natives offered their fervices to accompany us back, which we readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt peculiar fatisfaction at feeing us ; for, as we had exceeded our time near an hour, he began to be alarmed for our fafety, and was 456 AVOYAGETO 1780. was preparing to march after us. He and his party had, during our abfence, been profitably employed, in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds in this bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our prefenting them with a dollar each for their trouble, and intruding to their care a bottle of rum for the Mandarin. One of them chofe to accompany us on board. At two in the afternoon we joined the (hips, and feveral of our mooting parties returned about the fame time from the woods, having had little fuccefs, though they faw a great variety of birds and animals, fome of which will be hereafter noticed. At five, a proa, with fix men, rowed up to the fhip, from the upper end of the harbour, and a decent looking pcrfon- age introduced himfelf to Captain Gore with an eafe and good breeding, which convinced us his time had been fpent in other company than what this ifland afforded. He brought with him the French paper above tranferibed, and faid he was the Mandarin mentioned in it. He fpoke a few Portugueze words, but as none of us were acq - January. at war with one another. He made anfwer in the anirma- • „ » tive; but, at the fame time, fignified to us, that it was indif- ferent to him to what nation the mips he was inftrufted to wait for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people or Cochin China. He here produced another paper, which he defired us to read. This was a letter fealed, and directed " To the Captains of any European vefTels that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was defigncd for French mips in particular, yet as the direction included all European Captains, and as Luco was defirous of our perufing it, we broke the feal, and found it to be written by the Bifhop who wrote the cer- tificate. Its contents were as follows ; " That having rea- fon to expect, by fome late intelligence from Europe, that a veflcl would foon come to Cochin China, he had, in confe- quence of this news, got the Court to fend a Mandarin (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival ; that if the vefTel mould put in there, the Commander might either fend by the bearer an account to him of his arrival, or trufl himfelf to the Mandarin, who would pilot him into a well-flickered port in Cochin China, not more than a day's- fail from Con- dore ; that fhould he choofe to remain in Condore, till the return of the mefTenger, proper interpreters would be fent back, and any other afliftance, which a letter mould point out, be furnifhed ; that it was unneceflary to be more par- ticular, of which the Captain himfelf mufl be fenfible." This letter had the fame date as the certificate, and was re- turned to Luco again, without any copy being taken. From this letter, and the whole of Luco's converfation, there remained little doubt, that it was a French fhip he was to expect ; at the fame time we found he would be glad Vol. III. 3 N not 45S AVOYAGETO '780. not to lofe his errand, and had no objection to become ouf January. L.-.y 1 pilot. We could not difcover from the Mandarin, the exact object: and bufinefs which the velTel he was waiting for, in- tended to profecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our in- terpreter, the black, was extremely dull and ftupid, and I fhould therefore be forry, with fuch imperfect means of information, to run the rifle of mifleading the reader by any conjectures of my own, refpecting the object of Luco's vifit to this ifland. I fhall only add, that he told us the French fhips might perhaps have put into Tirnon, and from thence fail to Cochin China ; and, as he had received no intelli- gence of them, he thought this moft likely to have been the cafe. Captain Gore's inquiries were next directed to find out what fupplies could be obtained from the ifland. Luco faid, that he had two buffaloes of his own, which were at our fervice ; and that there were plenty on the ifland, which might be purchafed for four or five dollars a head; but finding that Captain Gore thought that fum exceedingly moderate, and would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raifed upon us to feven and eight dollars. Sunday 23. Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both fhips were fent to the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchafed ; but they were obliged to wait, till it was high-water, as they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the furf breaking on the beach with fuch force, that it was with the utmoft diffi- culty each launch brought a buffaloe on board in the even- ing, and the officers, who were fent on this fervice, gave it as 1 • their T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 459 their opinion, that between the violence of the furf, and the fiercenefs of the buffaloes, it would be extremely im- prudent to attempt bringing any more off in this way. We had purchafed eight, and were now at a lofs in what man- ner to proceed to get them on board. We could kill no more than was juft neceffary for the confumption of one day- as in this climate meat will not keep till the next. After confulting with Luco, it was concluded, that the re- mainder fhould be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being fheltered from the wind, was more free from furf. This plan was accoidmgly put in execution ; but the untractablenefs and prodigious ftrength. of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult opera- tion. The method of conducting them was, by palling ropes through their noftrils, and round their horns ; but having been once enraged at the fight of our men, they be- came fo furious, that they fometimes broke the trees, to which we were often under the neceffity of tying them ; fometimes they tore afundcr the cartilage of the noftril, through which the ropes ran, and got loofc. On thefe oc- cafions, all the exertions of our men, to recover them, would have been ineffectual, without the afliftance of fome young boys, whom thefe animals would permit to approach them, and by whole little managements their rage was foon ap- peafed. And when, at length, they were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twilling ropes round their legs, in the manner they were directed, that we were en- abled to throw them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumftance, refpecting thefe animals, which I thought no lefs lingular than this gentlenefs to- ward, and, as it fhould feem, affection for little children, g N 2 was, 460 A VOYAGE TO 1780. waS) that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, January. V-.-V— ^ before they became the tameft of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a confiderable time, which became great favourites with the failors, and, thinking that a breed of animals of fuch ftrength and fize, fome of them, weighing, when drefTed, feven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable acquifition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England ; but my intention was fruftrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at fea. Friday 28. \t was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board ; however, there was no reafon to regret the time taken up by this fervice, fince, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been difcovered, of which, as alfo of wood, part of the fhips companies had been employed in laying in a good fupply ; fo that a fhorter flop would be ne- ceflary, for replenifhing our flock of thefe articles, in the Strait of Sunda. A party had likewife been occupied in drawing the feine, at the head of the harbour, where they took a great many good nili ; and another party, in cutting down the cabbage- palm, which was boiled and ferved out with the meat. Befides this, having been able to procure only a fcanty fupply of cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging, was become an object of conrtant attention,, and demanded all our fpare time. Pulo-Condore is high and mountainous, and furrounded by feveral fmaller iflands, fome of which are lefs than one, and others two miles diftant. It takes its name from two Malay words, Pulo fignifying an ifland, and Com/ore a cala- bafli, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the form of a crefcent, extending near eight miles from the 4 Southcrnmoft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. A6x Southernmoft point, in a North Raft direction ; but its 1780 breadth no where exceeds two miles. From the Weftern- moft extremity, the land trends to the South Eaft for about four miles ; and oppofite to this part of the coaft there is an ifland, called, by Monfieur D'Apres *, Little Condore., which runs two miles in the fame direction. This polition of the two iflands affords a fafe and commodious harbour, the en- trance into which is from the North Weft. The diftance between the two oppofite coafts is three quarters of a mile, exclufive of a border of coral rock, which runs down along each fide, extending about one hundred yards from the more. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five fa- thoms water, but the bottom is fo foft and clayey, that we found great difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there is mallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two iflands approach fo near each other, as to leave only a pafTage at high water for boats. The mod convenient place for watering is at- a beach on the Eaftern fide, where there is a fmall flrea'm. which furnifhed us with fourteen or fifteen tons of water a day. This ifland, both with refpect to animal and vegetable productions, is confidcrably improved fince the time when Dampier vilited it. Neither that writer, nor the compiler of the Eaft India Directory, make mention of any other quadrupeds than hogs, which are faid to be very fcarce, lizards, and the guanoes ; and the latter, on the authority of Monfieur Cedier, a French engineer, who furveyed the ifland about the year i;qo, fays, that none of the fruits and efculent plants, fo common in the other parts of India, * Neptune Oriental. ar-2 January. 462 AVOYAGETO 1780. are to be found here, except water-melons, a few potatoes, fmall gourds, chibboh (a fmall fpecics of onion), and little black, beans. At prefent, belides the buffaloes, of which we underftood there were feveral large herds, we purchased from the natives fome remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinefe breed. They brought us three or four of a wild fort ; and our fportfmen reported, that they frequently met with their tracks in the woods, which alfo abound with monkies and fquirrels, but fo fhy, that it was difficult to moot them. One fpecies of the fquirrel was of a beautiful mining black colour ; and another fpecies flriped brown and white. This is called the flying-fquirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane, refembling a bat's wing, extending on each fide the belly, from the neck to the thighs, which, on ftretching out their legs, fpreads, and enables them to fly from tree to tree, at a confiderable dif- tance. Lizzards were in great abundance; but I do not know that any of us faw the guano, and another animal defcribed by Dampier* as refembling the guano, only much larger. Amongft its vegetable improvements, I have already men- tioned the fields of rice we paffed through ; and plantains, various kinds of pomptons, cocoa-nuts, oranges, fhaddocks, and pomegranates, were alfo met with; though, except the plantains and fhaddocks, in no great abundance. It is probable, from what has been already faid, relative to the Bifhop of Adran, that the French have introduced thef'e improvements into the ifland, for the purpofe of mak- ing it a more convenient refrefhing ftation for any of their {hips that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. * Vid. Dampier, Vol. i. p. 392. Should THE PACIHC OCEAN. 463 Should they have made, or intend to make, any fettlement 1780. J January. in thofe countries, it is certainly well fituated for that pur- 1 ^-— * pofe, or for annoying the trade of their enemies, in cafe of war. Our fportfmen were very unfuccefsful in their purfuit of the feathered game, with which the woods are well flocked. One of our gentlemen had the good fortune to fhoot a wild hen; and all the fhooting parties agreed that they heard the crowing of the cocks on every fide, which they defcribed to be like that of our common cock, but fhriller; that they faw feveral of them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly fhy. The hen that was fhot was of a fpeckled colour, and of the fame fhape, though not quite fo large, as a full grown pullet of this country. Mon- fieur Sonnerat has entered into a long difTertation, to prove that he was the firft perfon who determined the country to which this mod beautiful and ufeful bird belongs, and de- nies that Dampier met with it here. t The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a conti- nued high hill, richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the fummit to the water's edge. Among others, we obferved what Dampier calls the tar-tree* ; but obferved none that were tapped, in the manner he describes. The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not numerous. They are of a fliort fea- ture, and very fwarthy, and of a weak and unhealthy afpect ; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle difpofition. We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at tak- Friday 28. ing leave of the Mandarin, Captain Gore, at his own requeft, * Dampier, Vol. i. p. ^go. gave 464 A VOYAGE TO 1780. gave him a letter of recommendation to the Commanders January. . »— v ■ of any other mips that might put in here ; to which he added a handfomc prefent. He likewife gave him a letter for the Bifliop of Adran, together with a telefcopc, which he begged might be prefented to him as a compliment for the fervices he had received, through his means, at Con- dore. The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude 8° 40' co" North. Longitude, deduced from a great num ) , c, . r . r 106 ib 46 iiait. ber or lunar oblervations, 3 Dip of the North pole of the magnetic > 0 , needle, 3 Variation of the compafs, - o° 14' Weft. High water, at the full and change) „ ,„ br , a J. 4h i6m apparent time, of the moon, - - 3 rr From this time the water continued for twelve hours, without any vifible alteration, viz. till i6h 15'" apparent time, when it began to ebb ; and at 22h i$m apparent time, it was low water. 1 he ch;inge, from ebbing to flowing, was very quick, or in lefs than 5m. The water role and fell leven feet four inches perpendicular j and every day the fame whilit we continued there. CHAP. T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 465 CHAP. XI. Departure from Pulo Condor e. — Pafs the Straits of Banca. — View of the If and of Sumatra. — Straits of Sunda. — Occurrences there. — Defer iption of the If and of Cra- catoa. — Prince's If and. — EjfeSis of the Climate of "Java. — Run to 'the Cape of Good Hope. — "Tranfablions there. — Defcription of Fa/fe Bay. — Paffage to the Orkneys. — General Reftclions. ON the 28th day of January 1780, we unmoored ; and, '-?<>• as foon as we were clear of the harbour, fleered South t e^"}Jj South Weft for Pulo Timoan. On the 30th, at noon, the suniYy^o. latitude, by obfervation, being 50 o' North, and longitude 1040 45' Eaft, we altered our courfe to South three quarters Weft, having a moderate breeze from the North Eafl, ac- companied by fair weather. - At two in the morning of the 31ft, we had foundings of forty-five fathoms, over a Monday 31. bottom of fine white fand ; at which time our latitude was 40 4' North, longitude 1040 29' Eaft, and the variation of the compafs o° 31' Eaft. At one in the afternoon, we faw Pulo Timoan ; and, at three, it bore South South Weft three quarters Weft, diftant ten miles. This illand is high and woody, and has feveral fin all ones lying off to the Weftward. At five, Pulo Puif- fang was feen bearing South by Eaft three quarters Eaft ; and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy, and hav- Vol III. 3 O ing 466 AVOYAGETO 1780. ing out-run our reckoning from the effect of fome current, ^ January. ^ ^^ were clofe upon Pulo Aor, in latitude 20 46' North, longi- tude 1040 37' Eaft, before we were well aware of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the Eaft South Eaft. We kept this courfe till midnight, and then bore away South South Eaft for the Straits of Banca. February. On the i ft of February, at noon, our latitude, by obferva- tion, was i° 20' North, and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar observations taken in the courfe of the preceding twelve hours, 1050 Eaft. At the fame time, the longitude, by Mr. Bayly's time-keeper corrected, was 1050 15' Eaft. We now fleered South by Eaft; and, at fun-fet, having fine clear weather, faw Pulo Panjang; the body, of the ifland bearing Weft North Weft, and the fmall iflands, lying on the South Eaft of it, Weft half South, feven leagues diftant. Our latitude, at this time, was o° 53' North. WcJnef. z. On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for found- ings, continuing to do the fame every hour, till we had palled the Straits of Sunda, and found the bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by obfervation, o° 22' South, longitude 1050 14' Eaft, and our foundings twenty fathoms, we came in light of the little iflands called Dominis, which lie off the Eaftern part of Lingen ; and which bore from North 62° Weft, to North, 8o° Weft, five leagues diftant. At this time we palled a great deal of wood, drifting on the fea ; and, at one o'clock, we faw Pulo Taya, bearing South Weft by Weft, diftant feven leagues. It is a fmall high ifland, with two round peaks, and two detached rocks lyingoff.it to the Northward. When abrcaft of this iiland, we had foundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we faw great quantities > of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 467 of a reddifh coloured fcum or fpawn, floating on the water, '780. , , • r, ■ February. in a Southerly direction. « — «* — 1 At day-light, on the 3d, we came in fight of the Three Thurfday3. Iflands ; and, foon after, of Monopin Hill, on the ifland of Banca. At noon, this hill, which forms the North Eaft point of the entrance of the Straits, bore South. Eafl half South, diftant fix leagues ; our latitude, by obfervation, being i° 48' South, and longitude 105° 3' Eaft, the foundings feventeen fathoms, and no perceivable variation in the compafs. Having got to the Weftward of the flioal, called Frederick Endric, at half pad two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the Southward ; and, in the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due Eaft, we determined its latitude to be 20 3' South, the fame as in Monf. D'Apres' map, and its longi- tude 105° 18' Eaft. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca fliore, and having rowed round the mips, went away again. We hailed her in the Malaye tongue to come on board, but received no anfwer. At midnight, finding a ftrong tide againft us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing North 290 Weft. On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing fome dif- Friday 4. ficulty in weighing our anchors, owing to the ftiff tenacious quality of the ground, we proceeded with the tide down the Straits ; the little wind we had from the Northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect calm, and the tide making againft us, we dropt our anchor in thirteen fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on the Sumatra fliore ; Monopin Hill bearing North 540 Weft. The latitude, by obfervation, was 2° 22' South, longitude 105* 38' Eaft. At three, in the after- noon, we weighed and flood on through the Straits with a 3 O 2 light 468 A V O Y A G E T O i78o. light breeze; and, at eight, were abreaft of the Second Point, February. \ , — / and pafTed it within two miles, in feventeen fathoms water, a fullicient proof, that this point may be bordered upon with fafety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount PermiiTang, on the ifland of Banca, bearing North y° Eaft, and the Firft Point South 540 Eaft, diftant about three leagues. Saturday 5. In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the South Eaft ; and, at ten, pafTed a fmall flioal, lying in a line with Lufepara and the Firft Point, at the diftance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the ifland of Lufepara, bearing South, $f t F-aft> rour miles diftant, we deter- mined its latitude to be 30 107 South, and longitude 1060 15' Eaft. The difference of longitude between the ifland Lufe- para, which lies in the South entrance of the Straits of Banca, and Monopin Hill, which forms one fide of the en- trance from the North, we found to be 55', which is only two miles lefs than what is given in D'Apres' chart. In pafling thefe Straits, the coaft of Sumatra may be ap- proached fomewhat clofer than that of Banca. At the dif- tance of two or three miles from the fhore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks or fhoals ; however, the lead is the fureft guide. The country is covered with wood down to the water's edge, and the mores are fo low, that the fea overflows the land, and wafhes the trunks of the trees. To this flat and marfhy fituation of the fhore, we may attribute thofc thick fogs and vapours, which we perceived, every morning, not without dread and horror, hanging over the ifland, till they were difperfed by the rays of the fun. The fliores of Banca are much bolder, and the country inland rifes to a moderate 1 height, . T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 469 height, and appears to be well wooded throughout. We *7%°- often faw fires on this ifland during the night-time; but -,. ,--T-Y1j none on the oppofite fhore. The tide runs through the Straits at the rate of between two and three knots an hour. In the morning of the 6th, we patted to the Weftward of Sunday 6- Lufepara, at the diftance of four or five miles ; generally carrying foundings of five and fix fathoms water, and never lefs than four. We afterward fleered South by Eaft; and having brought Lufepara to bear due North, and deepened our water to feven fathoms, we altered our eourfe to South by Weft, keeping the lead going, and hauling out a little, whenever we fhoaled our water. The foundings on the Su- matra fide we flill found to be regular, and gradually moaling, as we approached the fhore. At five in the afternoon we faw the Three Sifters, bearing South by Weft half Weft j and, at feven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms, about eight miles to the North of the iflands. The weather was clofc and fultry, with light winds, generally from the North Weft; but fometimes varying round as far as the North Eaft ; and, during the night,, we obferved much lightning over Sumatra. We weighed, the next morning at five, and at eight were Monday r, clofe in with the Sifters. Thefe are two very fmall iflands, well covered with wood, lying in latitude 50 o't South, lon- gitude 1060 12' Eaft, nearly North and South from each other, and furrounded by a reef of coral rocks ; the whole circumference of which is about four or five miles. At noon we got fight of the ifland of Java to the Southward y the North Weft extremity of which (Cape St. Nicholas) bore South ; North Ifland, on the Sumatra fhore, South 270 Weft, 4;o AVOYAGETO >7S©« and the Sifters North, 270 Eaft, diftant four leagues ; our \ ,, 1 latitude was 50 si' South, longitude 1050 57' Eaft. At four in the afternoon, we faw two fail in the Straits of Sunda ; one lying at anchor near the Mid-channel Ifland; the other nearer the Java fhore. Not knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our mips for action ; and at fix came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, four miles Eaft by South from North I (land. Here wc lay all night, and had very heavy thunder and lightning to the North Weft ; from which quarter the wind blew in light breezes, accompanied with hard rain. Tucfday s. At eight o'clock the next morning, we weighed, and pro- ceeded through the Straits, the tide fetting to the South- ward, as it had done all night; but about ten the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five fathoms ; a high ifland, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing South by Eaft. We were, at this time, not more than two miles from the fhips, which, now hoifting Dutch colours, Captain Gore fent a boat on board for intelligence. The rain ftill continued with thunder and lightning. Early in the afternoon, the boat returned with an account that the large fhip was a Dutch Eaft-Indiaman, bound for Europe ; and the other a pacquet from Batavia, with orders for the feveral fhips lying in the Straits. It is the cuftom for the Dutch fhips, as foon as their lading is nearly com- pleted, to leave Batavia, on account of its extreme unwholc- fomenefs, and proceed to fome of the more healthy iflands in the Straits, where they wait for the remainder of their cargo, and their difpatches. Notwitfthanding this precau- tion, the Indiaman had loft, fince her departure from Ba- tavia, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 471 tavia, four men, and had as many more whofe recovery F^°a] was defpaired of. She had lain here a fortnight, and was v. — ,-— 1 now about to proceed to water at Cracatoa, having juft re- ceived final orders by the pacquet. At feven in the morning of the 9th, we weighed, and v/ednef. 9, flood on through the Straits to the South Weft, keeping pretty clofe in with the iflands on the Sumatra more, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Ifland, which lay on our left. At half after ten, I received orders from Cap- tain Gore to make fail toward a Dutch fhip which now hove in fight to the Southward, and which we fuppofed to be from Europe ; and, according to the nature of the in- telligence we could procure from her, either to join him at Cracatoa, where he intended to Hop, for the purpofe of fupplying the mips with arrack ; or to proceed to the South Eaft end of Prince's Ifland, and there take in our water, and wait for him. I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch fhip, which, foon after, came to an anchor 10 the Eaftward; when the wind flackcning, and the current dill fetting very flrong through the ftrait to the South Weft, we found it impoflible to fetch her, and having therefore got as near her as the tide would permit, we alfo dropt anchor. I immediately difpatched Mr. Williamfon, in the cutter, with orders to get on board her if poftible ; but as fhe lay near a mile off, and the tide run with great rapidity, we foon perceived, that the boat was dropping faft aftern. We therefore made the fignal to return, and immediately began to veer away the cable, and fent out a buoy aftern, in order to aflift him in getting on board again. Our poverty, in the article of cord- age, was here very confpicuous ; for we had not a finale: coil 472 A VOYAGE TO '7s" coil of rope, in the ftore-room, to fix to the buoy, but were February. * » i— , i obliged to let about unreeving the ftudding-fail geer, the topfail-halliards, and tackle-falls, for that purpofe; and the boat was at this time driving to the Southward fo faft, that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and al- moft all our running rigging, that fhe could fetch the buoy. Thurfdayio. I was now under the neceflity of waiting till the flrength of the tide fhould abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr. Williamfon got on board the fhip, and learnt, that fhe had been feven months from Europe, and three from the Cape of Good Hope ; that before fhe failed, France and Spain had declared war againfl Great Britain ; and that fhe left Sir Edward Hughes, with a fquadron of men of war, and a fleet of Haft-India mips, at the Cape. Mr. Williamfon having, at the fame time, been informed, that the water at Cracatoa was very good, and always pre- ferred, by the Dutch mips, to that of Prince's Ifland, I re- folved to rejoin the Refolution at the former place ; and a fair breeze fpringing up, we weighed and flood over to- ward the ifland, where we foon after faw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and the tide fetting flrong againft us, I was obliged to drop anchor, at the diftancc of about five miles from the Refolution, and immediately fent a boat on board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had received. As foon as the Refolution faw us preparing to come to, me fired her guns, and hoiflcd an Englilh jack at the enfign flail, the iignal at fca to lead ahead. This we afterward niuicrllood was intended to prevent our anchoring, on ac- count of the foul ground, which the maps fhe had on board placed THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 473 placed here. However, as we found none, having a muddy *7*°< bottom, and good holding ground, in fixty fathoms water, we kept fad till the return of the boat, which brought or- ders to proceed the next morning to Prince's Ifland. We were at this time two miles diftantfrom the fliorej the peak of Cracatoa bore North Weft by North ; Bantam Point Eaft North Eaft half Eaft ; Prince's Ifland South Weft by Weft. The ifland of Cracatoa is the Southernmoft of a group fituated in the entrance of the Straits of Sunda. It has a high peaked hill on the South end *, which lies in latitude 6° 9' South, and longitude 1050 15' Eaft; the whole circuit of the ifland is not more than three leagues. Off the North Eaft end lies a fmall ifland, which forms the road where the Refolution anchored ; and within a reef that runs off the South end of the latter, there is good flielter againft all Northerly winds, with eighteen fathoms water near the reef, and twenty- feven in the mid-channel. To the North Weft, there is a narrow pafs for boats between the two iflands. The fliore, which forms the Weftern fide of the road, is in a North Weft direction, and has a bank of coral ttretching into the fea, about one third of a cable's length, which makes the landing difficult for boats, except at high water ; but the anchoring ground is very good, and free from rocks. The place where the Refolution watered is a fmall fpring, fituated abreaft of the South end of the fmall ifland, at a fliort diftance from the water-fide. A little to the Southward, there is a very hot fpring, which is ufed by the natives as a * The ifland of Tamarin, or Sambouricou, which lies about four leagues to the North of Cracatoa, may be eafily miftaken for the latter, having a hill of nearly the fame fize and form, fituated alfo near its Southern extremity. Vol. III. 3 P bath. 474 A VOYAGE TO ,7So- bath. Whilft we were lying off the South end of this illand, v _u- _'. we Tent a boat with the Matter onfhore, to look for water ; but after having landed with fome difficulty, he returned unfiiccefsful. Cracatoa is cfleemed very healthy, in comparifon of the neighbouring countries. It confifts of high land, rifing gradually on all fides from the fea ; and the whole is co- vered with trees, except a few fpots which the natives have cleared for rice fields. The number of people on the illand is very inconfiderable. Their Chief, as are thofe of all the other iflands in the Straits, is fubject to the King of Bantam. The coral reefs afford plenty of fmall turtles ; but other re- freshments are very fcarce, and fold at an enormous price. Latitude of the road where the Rcfolution anchored - - - 8° 6' South. Longitude, by Mr. Bayly's time-keeper - 1040 48' Eaft. Ditto, by obfervation - - 105* 36' Eaft. Dip of the South end of the magnetic needle 26° 3' Variation of the compafs - i° o' Weft. On the full and change days, it is high-water at yb in the morning. The water rifes three feet two inches per- pendicular. At eight o'clock in the evening, it began to blow frefh from the Weftward, with violent thunder, lightning, and Friday u. rain ; and at three the next morning, we weighed and flood over for Prince's Illand, but the Wefterly wind dying away, was fucceeded by a breeze from the South Eaft, and, at the fame time, a ftrong tide letting to the South Weft prevented our fetching the illand, and obliged us, at two in the after- noon, to drop anchor in fixty-livc fathoms, over a muddy bottom, T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 475 bottom, at three leagues diftance from it ; the high hill „ \"So- ' " ° February. bearing South Weft by South, and the peak on Cracatoa « — -v— » North by Eaft. We had light airs and calms till fix next morning, when we weighed and made fail, having, in our Saturday 12. endeavours to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old meffenger, and afterward a new one, cut out of our beft hawfer. This, however, was intirely owing to the wretched ilate of our cordage, as the ftrain was not very confulerable, and we had befidcs aflifted the cable in coming in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at noon we came to an anchor off the South Eaft end of Prince's Iiland, in twenty-fix fathoms, over a fandy bot- tom ; the Eaft end of the iiland bearing North North Eaft, the Southernmoft point in light South Weft by South, the high peak North Weft half Weft, diftant from the neareft more half a mile. As foon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770, was fent along with the Mafter, to look for the water- ing-place. The brook from which, according to the beft of his recollection, the Endeavour had been fupplied, was found quite fait. Further inland, they faw a dry bed, where the water fecmed to have lodged in rainy feafons ; and, about a cable's length below, another run, fupplied from an extenfive pool, the bottom of which, as well as the furface, was covered with dead leaves. This," though a little brackifh, being much preferable to the other, we be- gan watering here early the next morning, and finiflicd the Sunday 13. fame day. The natives, who came to us foon after we anchored, brought a plentiful fupply of large fowls, and fome turtles ;. q P 2 but 476 A VOYAGE TO 1780. but the laft were for the moft part very fmall. In the courfe February. ^ ^ ^ night, we had heavy rain ; and on the 14th, at day- Monday 14. ugh^ we faw the Refolution to the Northward, {landing to- ward the ifland, and at two in the afternoon, (he dropt an- chor clofe to us. In the courfe of the day, we heeled the fhip, andfcrubbed and hogged her bottom, which was very foul ; and got ready for fea. Tuefday iS. The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his Hock of water at Cracatoa, fent his men on more, who now found the brook that was firft mentioned, rendered per- fectly fweet by the rain, and flowing in great abundance. This being too valuable a treafure to be neglected, I gave orders, that all the calks we had filled before mould be flarted, and replenifhed with the frelh water, which was ac- Wednef. z6. cordingly done before noon the next day; and in the evening, we cleared the decks, and both mips were ready for fea. In the forenoon of the 18th, we had heavy rains, and va- riable winds, which prevented our getting under way till two in the afternoon, when a light wind fprung up from the Northward; but this foon after leaving us, we were obliged to drop our anchor again, at eight o'clock that night, in fifty fathoms water, and wait till the fame hour Jamrday 19. the next morning. At that time, being favoured by a breeze from die North Weft, we broke ground, to our inexprcflible fatisfaction, for the laft time in the Straits of Sunda, and the next day, had intirely loft fight of Prince's Ifland. This ifland having been already defcribed by Captain Cook, in the hiftory of a former voyage, I mail only add, that we were exceedingly ftruck with the great general re- semblance of the natives, both in figure, colour, manners, and Friday 18. THE PACIFIC OCEAN.5 477 and even language, to the nations we had been fo much _ »780' . February. converfant with, in the South Seas. The effects of the Ja- vanefe climate, and I did not efcape without my full (hare of it, made me incapable of purfuing the comparifon fo minutely as I could have wiihed. The country abounds with- wood to fuch a degree, that notwithftanding the quantiry cut down every year by the (hips which put into the road, there is no appearance of its diminution. We were well fupplied with fmall turtle, and fowls of a moderate fize ; the laft were fold at the rate of ten for a Spanifh dollar. The natives alfo brought us many hog-deer, and a prodigious number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as mod of our failors provided themfelves with one, if not two of thefe troublefome animals. As we mould have met with fome difficulty in finding the watering-place, if Mr. Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth while, for the ufe of future navigators, to de- fcribe its fituation more particularly. The peaked hill on the ifland, bears from it North Weft by North ; a remark- able tree growing upon a coral reef, and quite detached from the neighbouring (hrubs, Hands juft to the North- ward j and clofe by it, there is a fmall plot of reedy grafs> the only piece of the kind that can be feen hereabout. Thefe marks will (hew the place where the pool emp- ties it (elf into the fea; but the water here is generally fait, as well as that which is in the pool. The ca(ks muft therefore be filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry feafons, the fre£h water that comes down from the hills, is loft among the leaves, and mud be fearched for by- clearing them away* The 6° 36' is" South. io 5° i/ 30" Eaft. 28° 15' 0" o°54' 0" Weft. 83° t' 478 AVOYAGETO 1780. The latitude of the anchoring-place at February. ° * Prince's Ifland was Longitude - Dip of the South pole of the magnetic needle - Variation of the compafs Mean of the thermometer From the time of our entering the Straits of Banca, we began to experience the powerful effects of this peftilen- tial climate. Two of our people fell dangeroufly ill of ma- lignant putrid fevers ; which however we prevented from fpreading, by putting the patients apart from the reft, in the moft airy births. " Many were auueked with teazing coughs ; others complained of violent pains in the head ; and even the healchieft among us felt a fenfation of fufFocat- ing heat, attended by an infufTerablc languor, and a total lofs of appetite. But though our fituation was for a time thus uncafy and alarming, we had at laft the fingular fatis- faction of efcaping from thefe fatal leas, without the lofs of a fingle life ; a circumftance which was probably owing in part to the vigorous health of the crews, when we firft arrived here, as well as to the Ariel: attention, now become habitual in our men, to the falutary regulations introduced among A us by Captain Cook. On our leaving Prince's Ifland, and during the whole time of our run from thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew* of the Refolution was in a much more flckly Aate than that of the Difcovcry. For though many of us continued, for fame time, complaining of the effects of the noxious eli- te we had left, yet happily we all recovered from them. 1 Of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 479 Of the two who had been ill of fevers, one, after bein and longitude 350 26' Eaft, the trade-wind left April. us in a violent thunder ftorm. From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 35° 1' South, and longitude 260 3' Eaft, the winds were moderate, and generally from the South quarter. A frefh breeze then fprung up from the Eaftward, which continued till the afternoon of the Tuefday4. 4th ; after which we had a calm that lafted the two follow- ing days. It had hitherto been Captain Gore's intention to proceed directly to St. Helena, without flopping at the Cape ; but 4 the Monday 3. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 481 the rudder of the Refolution having been, for fome time, '780- April. complaining, and, on being examined, reported to be in a *— — v— -» dangerous Hate, he refolved to fleer immediately for the Cape, as the mod eligible place, both for the recovery of his lick, and for procuring a new main-piece to the rudder. From the 21ft of March, when we were in latitude zf 22' South, longitude 520 25' Eaft, to the 5th of April, when we Wednefij, had got into latitude 360 12' South, longitude 22* 7' Eaft, we were (Irongly affected by the currents, which fet to the South South Weft, and South Weft by Weft, fometimes at the rate of eighty knots a day. On the 6th, having got Thurfday out of the Bay on the 9th of May, and on the 14th, we got Tuefday9. into the South Eaft trade- wind, and fleered to the Weft ward of the iflands of St. Helena and Afcenfion. On the 31ft, being Wednef. 31. in latitude 120 48' South, longitude 150 40' Weft, the mag- Sunday 1+' netic needle was found to have no dip. On the 1 2th of June, we palled the equator for the fourth J">*- time during this voyage, in longitude 260 16' Weft. We ****** Ifc now began to perceive the effects of a current fetting North by Eaft, half a knot an hour. It continued in this direc- tion till the middle of July, when it began to fet a little to Satardiy iS. the Southward of the Weft. On the 1 2th of Auguft, we made the Weftern coaft of Ire- Auguft. land, and after a fruitlcfs attempt to get into Port Galway, Saturday <*• from whence it was Captain Gore's intention to have fent the journals and maps of our voyage to London, we were obliged, by ftrong Southerly winds, to fteer to the North- ward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly ; but the wind continuing in the fame quarter, we ftood on to the Northward of Lewis Ifland ; and on the 2?d of Auguft, iwdayza. at eleven in the morning, both mips came to an anchor at Stromnefs. From hence, I was difpatched by Captain Gore, to acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival ; and on the 4th day of October the fhips arrived fafe at the WednefTi Nore, after an abfence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. On quitting the Difcovery at Stromnefs, I had the fatis- faction of leaving the whole crew in perfect health ; and at the fame time, the number of convalefcents on board the Refolution, did not exceed two or three, of whom only one was incapable of fervice. In the courfe of our voyage, the i< Refolution 488 AVOYAGETO •780- Refolution loft but five men by ficknefs, three of whom were in a precarious ftate of health at our departure from England ; the Difcovcry did not lofe a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations eftablifhed by < aptain Cook, with which the world is already acquainted, may be juftly eonfidered as the principal caufe, under the blefling of Di- vine Providence, of this fingular fuccefs. But the baneful effects of fait provifions might perhaps, in the end, have been felr, notwithstanding thefe falutary precautions, if we had not aflifted them, by availing ourfelves of every fubfti- tute, our licuation at various times afforded. Thefe fre- quently confiding of articles, which our people had not been ufcd to confuler as food for men, and being fomctimes ex- ceedingly naufeous, it required the joint aid of perfuafion, authority, and example, to conquer their prejudices and difgufts. The preventives we principally relied on were four krout and portable foup. As to the antifcorbutic remedies, with which we were amply fupplicd, we had no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did not appear the flighted fymptoms of the fcurvy, in cither fhip, during the whole voyage. Our malt and hops had alfo been kept as a re- fource, in cafe of actual ficknefs, and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, were found intircly fpoiled. About the fame time, were opened fome cades of bifcuir, flour, malt, pcafe, oatmeal, and groats, which, by way of expe- riment, had been put up in fmall calks, lined with tin- frail, and found all, except the peafe, in a much better flate, than could have been expected in the ufual manner of package. I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the confidcration of Government, the nccdlity of allowing a-fulli- cicnt THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 4^9 cient quantity of Peruvian bark, to fuch of his Majefty's fliips A'7^ as may be expofed to the influence of unwholefome climates. It happened very fortunately in the Difcovery, that only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of Sunda, flood in need of this medicine, as he alone confumed the whole quantity ufually carried out by Surgeons, in fuch veflels as ours. Had more been affected in the fame manner, they would probably all have perifhed, from the want of the only remedy capable of affording them effectual relief. Another circumftance attending this voyage, which, if we confider its duration, and the nature of the fervice in which we were engaged, will appear fcarcely lefs Angular than the extraordinary healthinefs of the crews, was, that the two fliips never loft fight of each other for a day together, ex- cept twice ; which was owing, the fir ft time, to an acci- dent that happened to the Difcovery off the coafl of Owhy- hee ; and the fecond, to the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatfka Bay. A ftronger proof cannot be given of the fkill and vigilance of our fubaltern officers, to whom this fliare of merit almoft intirely belongs. Vol. III. 3 R APPENDIX, APPENDIX. 3 R 2 APPENDIX, No. I TABLES of the ROUTE of the RESOLUTION and DISCOVERY, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage. N. B. In thefe Tables, the Situation of the Ships at Noon is, in general, fet down ; and the Variation, as it was obferved, either in the Morning or Evening of the fame Day, or both. Therefore, the Tables do not contain the exact Place where the Variation was obferved; but the Difference is fo little, that it can make no material Error. TABLE I. From the Cape of Good Hope to Kerguelcn's Land. Time. Latitude South. Longitude Eaft. Variation Weft. H 3 Barom. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1776. Dec. 2 > Noon. 5 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 , 34 3 2 30 48 38 21 38 59 40 03 41 04 42 27 0 * *7 S9 17 36 *9 °5 21 23 23 29 25 25 28 5 3° 7 22 OO 2 2 30 23 OO 23 33 24 00 0 59 64 601 59 63 58; 47-- 54 Inches. 3°>°8 1 29,75 1 29,59 29,48 29,37 ! 2 9,47 j 29,81 j 29,80 Wefterly. Moderate wind and cloudy weather. Northerly. Light winds, and cloudy. N. W. Freih gale, and cloudy. W. N. W. A ilrong gale, and cloudy. Variable. Squally, with rain. W. S. W. Brifk wind, thunder, light- ning, and rain. W. S. W. Squally, with hail and rain. W. S. W. Strong gales, and cl^'v1 1 494 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE I. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Cape of Good Hope to Kerguelen's Land. Time. 1776. Dec. 10 1 1 12 13 14 15 16 l7 1'- l9 2C 21 22 23 24 Latitude South. 43 56 45 37 46 20; 47 15 47 46 48 24: 48 42 j.8 28 48 351 j.8 26 4S 27 1-3 27 j.8 iS 48 36 18 24 48 41 Longitude Eaft. Variation Weft. 32 13 34 31 sr I ' 24 4? .-5 °° ' 38: m: 41 42 42 45 44 46 !-° 131 ;.o I 43 37 ° 26 00 i 40 48 26 15 44 !5 48 164 31 00 52 n 56 6 56 40 59 2° 62 43 65 53 66 20 67 26: 68 35 69 1 1 27 44 Inches. 29>34 29,21 29,98 30,02 29,90 29,70 29>97 30,02 29>97 29,96 29>77 2 9,9 7 29*58 29»72 29>95 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Northerly. Moderate wind, and driz- l zling rain. I Wefterly. A frefh gale, and cloudv. \ S. W. Squally. Showers of hail and mow ^ Saw lea-birds, and fea-weed. !W. S. W. Strong gale and fqually, with fnow. In the evening failed between P. Edward's Iflands. (Wefterly. Gentle breezes, and hazy / weather. (N. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Rock- > weed. rN. N. E. Strong wind, and cloudy. Ten- I gains; whales, 44 29.54 3°,°5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. S. E. Frefh gales, and fair weather. N. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. 9 o 6 o )'. 54; 55 W. S W. Squally, with fleet. 021 5W" S' W' Moclerate wind, and fair '"*> j weather. 30,15 I N.W. Ditto, ditto. No birds. 30,28 ',N. W. Frefh gales, and foggy. 20 "8 ?N' W* b' N" Gentle breezes, and hazy J,/ \ weather. 2Q„0 jWefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy, J,/ I with rain. 20 68 5 Eaftcrl)r- Light breezes, and foggy ; rain y' ^ at times. 86 £Nortn- Moderate wind, and thick fog. y' I Few birds. 29,67 I N. N. E. Frefh breezes, and foggy. 0 ^S jDitt°' Frefh breezes, and foggy j with y,/ I rain at times. 2Q _Q (Ditto. Moderate wind, and hazy. Por- ^'' I poifes, and fome birds. 20 66 JDltt.°- LiSht breezes, and foggy. Some y' I birds. 20 20 V"Vari.al)le- Moderate wind, and foggy. y? I Birds, and porpoifes. 2Q ,g jWefterly. Frefh gales, and hazy. Paffed -^ 1 rock-weed. OQ ,Q [W. N. W, Ditto, and fome rain. Many ^" J blue peterels. 29,70 J N. W. Brifk wind, with drizzling rain ->q87 iN" Wi Frefll Sales> and cloudy wea- ~J' ' y ther. 2Q .- fN. b. E. Moderate wind, with cloud J>53 I at times. 49c APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE II. Continued. Route of the Rcfolution and Difcovery from Kerguelen's Land to Van Diemen's Land. Time. Latiuide. South. Longitude Eaft. Variation Weil. H H 3 0 O 3 1777- 0 j O • 97 29>93 30,06 3°>°5 3°»°9 29,90 30,00 29^95 30,20 Variable. Moderate wind, and cloudy. N. N. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Pall- ed a whale. North. Frefh gales, foggy. P.ain at times. N. b. W. Moderate breeze, and fine weather. Sea weed, 6cc. N. W. b. N. Moderate wind, and hazy. S. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and fine Many peterels and alba- Gentle breezes, and fair {weather, trofles. SW. S. W. C weather. JW. S. \V. Light winds, and fair wea- l ther. ( N. W. b. N. Gentle gale, and fair wea- / ther ; fomc lightning. fWefterly. Moderate wind, and fair J weather. Saw two turtle, and feveral (_ logs of wood. {Southerly. Squally and unfettled wea- ther. PafTed feveral logs of wood. At half paft four P. M. faw New Zea- land, S. E. Variable. Light winds, and fair wea- ther. A very heavy dew. Cape Farewell, in New Zealand, S. 640 W. and Murderer's Bay S. 340 E. Vol. III. 3S 498 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE IV. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand, to the Friendly Ifles. Time. J777- Feb.. 26 2/ 28 March 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IO II 12 13 M Latitude South. 41 384 41 43 41 *7i 42 3J 42 a5» 42- 24 41 ioj 39 5°1 39 IO 39 l7 39 24 39 3°t 39 26 39 5° 33 4i4 36 59-r 35 2S 14 6i Longitude Eaft. 76 49 77 J7 78 43 80 8i 82 36 35 5 87 26 89 21 91 13 92 52 94. 10 95 22 96 4 96 1 1 97 3° 98 43 93 97 Variation Eaft. 12 237 13 2; II T3 IO 49 10 iS 69 63^ 63t 64 «3| 60 64 607 66 68 68 69 gs;- 68t 66 68 Inches. 29>97 30,00 3°>°9 29»85 29,91 29.53 29»52 29,80 29>97 3°>I7 3^3° 3°»32 30,12 30,02 29,98 29,94 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1 Variable. Moderate wind, and fome- [ times cloudy. Ditto. Moderate wind and cloudy weather, ' Eafterly. Moderate breeze, and fome [ clouds. jN. E. Moderate wind, and Tome rain 1 Many albatrofles. f N. E. Light breezes, and .fine weather 1 Egg birds. A fwell from N; E. I Variable. Erifk wind ; . fqually with rain 1 at times. Saw a Port Egmont hen. { Wefterly. Brifk wind, and fine weather I Palled rock-weed, fS. W. Frefli gale, and fine weather. A 1 S. W. fwell. Weed, &c. f Wefterly. Frefli breeze, and fine wea- c ther. Whales. The fwell gone. { N. b. W. Frefli breezes, and fine wea- l ther; fome fhowers. f N. b* W. Gentle breezes, and fine wea- 1 ther. A copious dew. , fN. b.. W. Gentle breezes, and cloudy 1 A heavy dew. f N. N.. W. Gentle breezes, and fine 1 weather. A ftrong dew. J Northerly. Light airs, and fine weather l A heavy dew. f Variable. Light airs,, and fair weather 1 Many porpoifes. f S. E. b. E. Frefli gales, and cloudy ; fome 1 rain. Many porpoifes. fS. E. Frclh breezes, andfquaJly; fome t rain. Few birds. f Eafterly. Frefli gales, and fhowery wca- 1 ther. APPENDIX, No. I. 499 TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the Resolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound. New Zealand, to the Friendly Ifles. Time. 1777- March 16 *7 iS »9 20 21 22 23 24 H 26 27 28 29 30 31 April 1 Latitude South. 33 4° 33 24 32 4 3° 29 29 4 27 44 26 52 25 59 25 22> Longitude Eaft. 199 6 199 19 200 14 200 54 201 15 20I 30 201 34 201 s 20 I 30; 24 26^201 23 23 40 201 23 23 17 22 44 22 13 21 54i 201 23 201 12 201 40 201 49 20 267201 34 *9 517 i02 50 Variation Eaft. IO 19 •-1 3 9 39 8 37 72 74 69i 75i 73: 13\ a 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. J Northerly. Light winds, and drizzling 3 ' <• rain. 30.QJ V Variable. Small breezes, and cloud} weather. 8 ■ 25 S 33 mm m, I 77: 76f 8 73 80 82-; 79i 8o-; 81 82 5E. b. S. Moderate wind, and cloudy to. 10 1 • 1 ■ • - J ° ' L with ram at times. 29,99 Eafterly. Moderate wind, with fhowers 29,97 ' Eafterly. Moderate breezes,with fhowers,. 5 Eafterly. Gentle breezes, with cloudy 29,94 1 ^ weat7her. ^ } j E. b. N. Light breezes, and clear. Egg -9»97 l and Tropic birds. j Eafterly. Light breezes, and clear wea- 29'93 I ther. Flying fifh. f E. N. E. Light breezes, and clear wea- •* ' t ther. Sharks, dolphin, and flying fifh. VE. N. E. Light breezes, and clear wea J ' I ther. Tropic birds. {Eaft. Ditto weather. Some lightning. Saw Tropic birds, and caught two fharks. 1 VEafteily. Light breezes, and fair wea 3 ' t ther. Saw feveral dolphins. 30,02 j N. E. Little wind, and moftly cloudy. 5 Eafterly, Li«;ht breezes, and fine wea> 29'99 I ther. Saw land. {Eafterly. Squally, with rain at timer. A large ifland, moderately high, S. \\ three or four miles. {E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fine wea- ther. Saw land, which proved to be two iflands. {E. N. E. Little wind, and fine weather. The greater ifland bore S. boJ E difta tant about four miles. 3 S 2 500 APPENDIX, No. T. TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound. New Zealand, to the Friendly Ifles. Time. '777- April Latitude South. 20 Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 *3 *4 iS 2C 2 1 2 -J 2- 19 51 19 167 19 16 19 27; 19 7 18 57 1 3 39i 18 20 18 10 7 84 18 18 18 4. 2 4 25 '7 591 18 8 18 37' 75 ^3«! E. N. E. Little wind and fine weather The larger ifland, N. 700 E. diftant two miles. Plying off the iflands of Wateeoo, and Wauta-ete. Little wind, and fair weather. 83 29,96 I Eafterly. Little wind, and fine weather. 30,00 J E. N. E. Light airs, and cloudy. C Eafterly. Little wind, with fhowers. 30,00 J Harvey's Me, S. * E. diftant two miles. 29,98 Ditto. Little wind, and variable weather. 29,91 Ditto. Light airs, and clear weather. 29,81 Ditto. Almoft calm, with fhowers. r Variable. Squally. Thunder and light ning, with rain. :o. Moderate wind. Ditto weather. 29>°3 • Collected five puncheons of rain-water. irN. W. Moderate wind, and cloud)' 29>°3 • -with lightning. C Variable. Squally. Some lightning, 29>97 j Heavy rain. !N. Eafterly. Little wind, and rainy weather. Palmerfton's Wand, N. b. L7. two or three miles. J Northerly. Light breezes, and fine wea- 29>92 I ther. A fwell from the S. 29,88 J Ditto. Light breezes, with fhowers. Q j N. W. Moderate wind, and fhowers 29>«2 { Fifh and birds. Q \N. W. Frcfh gales, and fhowers. Much ~9' 3 I fifh, and many birds. 29,96 j Variable. Little wind, with rain. j Ditto. Moderate wind. Thunder, light* 9'-J5 j ning, and rain. 10 33 79 79 79 76 75 V Ditto. Squally unfettled weather. Saw ,94 { 29 -9,9 Savage llle. Ditto. The fame weather. APPENDIX, No. I. 5°i TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand, to the Friendly illes. Time. •777- April 26 27 28 29 Latitude South. 20 I I~ o 38 20 28: Longitude Eaft. 187 44 186 35 185 36 185 21 Variation Eaft. H 74' 76. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. 29,88 29,94 7 29,85 80 30,0$ \ Variable. Squally, with rain. Ditto. Little wind and cloudy, with rain. Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Saw the Friendly Ifles. Ditto. Moderate wind, with fhowers. Annamooka; N.W. b. W.diftant about l_ three leagues. T A B L Route of the Refolution and Difcovery E V. from the Friendly llles to Otaheite. Time. '777- July 1 8 *9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Latitude South. 22 7 2 2 26^ 22 2S 22 59i 24 4 24 50 25 23 25 45 26 87 26 51^ Longitude Eaft. 85 1° 86 9i 86 41 87 3 87 59 89 41 91 19 92 21 93 46 94 45 Variation Eaft. H 3 10 o 8 42 8 47 7 52 69 70 71 72 74 13\ 74 80 71* Inches. 29.93 3°>°3 30,10 30,12 30,02 3°>°3 30,20 30,16 30,20 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Eaft. Brifk wind, and fqually, with rain. f Variable. Moderate wind, and fair I weather. f S. E. Light winds, and cloudy.. Saw I many dolphins, f Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair wea- l ther. Dolphins, j N. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. JN. E. Moderate wind, and dark cloudy I weather. f N. N. E. Moderate wind, and hazy, I with rain. Saw a gannet. f N. N. E. Moderate- wind, and fine I weather. ? N. b. E. Moderate wind, and drizzling I rain at times. [ N. N. E. Squally, with fhowers. 502 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE V. Continued, ftoute of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Friendly Iiles to Otaheite. Time. July 28 29 3° 31 Auguft I Latitude South. 9 10 1 1 12 27 36 2S 7 28 6 27 53 27 49 27 28 2 7 437 27 33" 26 51 ■ 25 53 3 25 9, 23 56 23 7-- 21 12 19 I4i 17 46 Longitude Eaft. l95 55 197 11 ^ 55 200 37 202 11 203 50 204 o 2°5 35 206 29 207 40 208 58 Variation Ealt. 2IO I 7" 10 44 11 12 211 43 B 13 7 44 7 S 3" 7 37i 7 21 72' 7° oil 03i 67 69i 7«1 67: 67; 65 68-; 66 71 72 77 81 o 3 inches. 3^3 29,70 29>54 29,92 30,00 3°>i3 30,16 30,00 3°>11 30,21 3°,*5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 30,22 i N. N. E. Brifk wind, and fair weather. Ditto. Brifk wind, and fhowers f Northerly. Strong gales, and fqually, I with rain. f S. W. Moderate wind, and flying clouds I Swell from the S. S. W. J Wefterly. Brifk. wind, and fqually, with \ fhowers. f Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy, with [ fome rain. I Variable. Light winds, and fair weather. Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy, with rain. S. W. Gentle breezes, and fine weather. S. W. Gentle breezes, and fome fhowers. S. S. W. A gentle breeze, and fine weather. Southerlv. weather, 30,20 0,16 30,16 3°>i 7 ing N. N. A gentle breeze, and fine Saw land (Toobouai) bear- E. S. E. A gentle breeze, and fine weather. E. b. S. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefh gale, with fliowers. Eaflerly. Light winds, and ihowers. Oheitepeha Bay, in Otaheite, W. \ S. diflant two or three leagues. ./ — APPENDIX, No. I. 5°5 TABLE VI. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Society Iiles to Chriftmas Ifland. Time. »777- Decern. 9 10 1 1 12 *3 H 16 18 r9 20 21 22 2 24 25 26 Latitude South. '5 427 '4 32 *3 45 r3 1 12 17 n 3 9 59 8 57 7 jgi 6 24 4 567 3 32 o 34 S. o 45 N. 2 2f 1 57t Longitude Eall. 207 41 2°7 34 207 7 206 20 205 58 205 54 205 23 205 5 204 29 207 19 204 9 203 39 203 9 202 57 202 38 202 34 Varia- tion Eaft. 5 45 5 35 5 2I 5 587 5 19 5 7" 4 54 5 21 5 29 5 44 6 49 6 20 82 85 85 834 HI 84 84 85 84. $31- 82' 82i 81 32 83 79 80 w o 3 Inches. 29>97 29.93 29,92 30,00 29.93 29,91 29,90 29,83 29,88 29,88 29,90 29,SS 29,91 29>93 -50,07 30,08 29,99 3°>°9 Winds, Weather, and Remarks^ E. b. N. Moderate wind, and mowers. E. b. N. Gentle breezes, and pleafant weather. Squally, with mowers. A light breeze, and fair !N : ;N. I Gentle breezes, and fair E. b. E. E. b. N. weather. E. b. E. weather. E. N. E. A frefh gale, and foine rain. Eaft. A frefh breeze, and fair weather. ( E. b. N. A light breeze, and clear. iE. N. E. A frefh breeze, and fine wea- ther. Tropic birds, egg-birds, and fhecrwaters. i Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and fine wca- | ther. Many birds. I E. b. N. A frefh breeze. Many birds, i Eafterly. A frefh breeze, and palling clouds. Few birds, except terns, and egg-birds. f E. b* N. Moderate wind, and fonae I fhowers. A few egg-birds. fEaft. A frefh breeze, and fine weather / Men-of-war, terns, and tropic birds, f 'Eaft. Moderate wind, and fine weather. I Many birds. f E. S.. E. Moderate wind. Chriftmas { Ifie E. S. E, four miles f Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and fine wea- { tfSjr. Plying off the Ifle. f Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fine wea ■j ther. At anchor off the Weft fide of (. the ifland. 5°4 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE VII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Chriftmas Ifland to Sandwich Ifles. Time. ~T77T~ Jan. 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 io 1 1 12 13 "4 16 ll 18 1Q Latitude North. Longitude EaJf. Variation Eaft. fir 3 0 2 27 O * 202 36 0 t 0 824 3 22 202 25 «3 4 8 202 45 8i' 4 56 203 0 73 5 48 203 12 5 53 80,1 6 43 203 54 11 7 45 205 0 6 46 731 8 12 205 12 6 47 82 9 3° 205 O 331 10 44 204 49 33 12 17 204 14 S17 14 12 2°3 3 79i 15 53 ,02 8 79-: 17 40 201 29 -8 1 9 oi 200 58 20 25 200 38 78 21 12; 200 41 77 21 5°7 joo ^9 n 3 3 Inches. 29>97 29>97 29,90 29,90 29,87 29>85 29,96 29>93 29,90 20,89 29>95 3o,°4 2 9,95 30,00 3°>'9 3°>*5 30,21 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. ! E. S. E. A frefli gale. Eafterly. Moderate wind ; fome rain. Ditto. Moderate breeze, and fair wea then Ditto. Light winds, and drizzling rain. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and fhowers. Many birds. Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and fome rain. Saw birds and drift-wood. Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome rain. Strong current fetting N. E. Ditto. Light airs, and line weather. E. N. E. Gentle breezes, with fhowers. Some birds. Eafterly. Light breezes, and fine weather. Saw a turtle. E. N. E. Gentle breezes, and fine wea- ther. Many turtle, and birds. N. E. b. E. Frefli breeze, and fair weather. Ditto. A frefli gale, and. fome fhowers. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto. N. E. b. E. A frefli gale, with fome rain E. N. E. A frefli gale. Eafterly. A gentle gale, and fair weather Two ifland s leen one bearing N. E. [ E and the other N. b. W. f W. Variable. Light airs, and fine weather, the extremes of the fecond ifland N, 70 W. and N. 8i° f W. Off fhore about two leagues. APPENDIX, No. I. J1 jj TABLE VIII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Tiles to King George's or Nootka Sound, on the Weft Coaft of America. Time. Feb. i77a. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 ij H *5 16J Latitude North. 21 5<^ 23 1 24 31 26 7^ 27 4*i 28 56 3° 18 3° 99 31 2I| 3° 5§ 3° 13 31 2I 31 35 32 29 Longitude Eaft. 18 *9 20 21 33 47 34 56 36 23 37 25l 33 71 39 6 22I40 18^ 234» 6I 24ki 44: 199 30 l99 37 199 26 199 44 200 19 200 6 201 3 202 5 203 14 205 22 Variation Eaft. 206 19 206 O 2°5 59 205 24 205 24 '205 24 2°5 59 206 16 207 31 209 41 212 14 2I4 59 217 10 11 21 H BP ft •t 3 12 IO l3 59 1 1 16 41 17 2 17 36 »8 59 — 3 7'T 78 76 77- 79 72i 72i 73', 63 58 59 59 1 62- 59 57 58 55 t 56] 5$ 55i ?6 53 54 Inches. 30,08 3°>l3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 3°,I9 Eafterly. Frefh breezes, and fair weather Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome rain. E. b. N. Frefh breezes ; fome rain. Palled through the rippling of a cur- rent. 30,27 i Eaft. A frefh gale, and fair weather. f Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and form J > J I ram. 30,23 j Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers 30,26 I Ditto. A frefh breeze, and fair weather. S. S. E. A light breeze, and drizzling 3 ■> 7 ^ rain. Saw a grampus. 30,31 J Variable. Moderate wind, and fhowers. Northerly. Brifk wind. Cold, and cloud)' weather. N. N. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy, with fhowers. 1 E. N. E. Moderate wind, and dark gloom v 3°>5l j weather. _ rN. E. Lijrht breezes, and cloudy wea- 3°>46j ther rN. E. b. E. Light breezes, and fome 3 j45 i fhowers. Some birds. 30,46 j Eafterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. 30,46 Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. 30,58 I E. N. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. rE. S. E. Moderate wind, and fome S°>59 \ fhowers. >>27 { S31 !' N51 j !°>52 j n f Southerly. 3°>4S j ^r. > Light winds, and fine wea- 30,35 I Ditto. Gentle breezes, and cloudy. 30,20 ! S. S. E. Frefh gales, and line weather. ( Ditto. Gentle gale, and clear weather, 2°'35 j A ftrong dew. ■50,37 1 Ditto. Gentle gale, and hazy. Vol. Ill 3 T 5cG APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE Vlir. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to King George's or Nootka Sound, on the Weil: Coaft of America. Time. Fob. Latitude North. March 25 26 27 28 1 2 3 4 5 6 ? 8 Longitude Lait. +2 3*i 43 *7 43 4§ 14 *7' 44 49 44 54 44 33t 4-4 5 43 45 44 10 44 33- 44 2/l 943 55 10 1 1 12 13 43 4° 43 44 43 6 42 47 1443 *7 "•J 16 *7 42 , 43 4 43 5<5 44 50 219 21 222 16 224 55 226 22 228 2 228 14 229 7 231 8 232 45 234 20 235 28 ~.U -1 234 44 234 47 -35 -1 235 ° 27 43 232 45 233 52 8 Variation Eaft. 20 20 17 18 49f 17 321 *7 43 ;6: 5it 49 49* 5»t 49^ 44* 46^ 484 47- 43i 44 > 4^: 38: 38 40 4*1 46 4c> : Inches. 30,28 3°,3I 30,29 j33 3°>34 30,00 29,86 29,98 "Winds, "Weather, and Remarks. 39»27 30,12 29,91 29,70 29,86 30,16 29,86 3°»°4 ' ,oo 30,22 30*07 f S. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and hazy I Pafled a log of wood. I S. S. E. Freih breeze, and cloudy. S. E. b. S. Frelh breeze, and cloudy Pafled more wood. I Ditto. Gentle breezes, and cloudy wea ther. S. E. b. E. Moderate breeze, and cloudy, Variable. Eight airs, and cloudy. N. N. E. Gentle breeze, and cloudy. North. A freih gale, and flying clouds. Northerly. Moderate wind, and flying clouds. N. W. Light airs, and hazy. Saw whales, feals, and drift-wood. Northerly. Light airs, and fair weather. Saw the coaft of America from N. N. E. to S. E. ' E. about eight leagues oft'. J Wefterly. Squally, with rain at times, i W. N. W. Squally, with hail and rain t at times. IW. N. \V. Very unfettled weather 1 1 [ail, rain, and licet. I N. W. Unfettled weather. Hail, rain, &c. Wefterly. Very ftrong gales, with hail, rain, ;md licet. N. N. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy- Snow and fleet. Ji Wefterly. Squally weather. Hail, rain, [ and fleet. | N. W. b. N. Strong gales 85 3l5 30,10 30,21 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. f Variable. Light winds, and mofth' I cloudy. I Ditto. Light winds, and fair weather. j Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy ; lbme 1 rain. {Ditto. Moderate wind, moltly cloudy ; fome rain. Saw the land from N. b. W. to E. b. S. CWefterly. Strong gales, and unfettled 2 weather. f Ditto. Frefli gales, and rather unfettled I weatber. C Variable. Freih gales, and fqually, with \ fleet at times, f N. Wefterly. Frefh gales, and fqually ; ( hail, rain, and fleet. (Ditto. Ligbt winds, and cloudy wea- \ ther. j Wefterly. Frelh gales, and cloudy, j Ditto. Ligbt breezes, and fair wea- l ther. I |N. W. b. W. Light airs, and fine I weather. 3 T 2 5o8 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE JX. Route of the Refolution and DifGovery from King George's or Nootka Sound to Prince William's, along the Weftern coaft of America. lime. 1778. April 27 28 May Latitude North. Loneituc'e Eatt. 29 3° I 49 39 5° 1 51 54 53 22f 54 43 56 5° 58 17 458 22 58 4° 59 8 59 27; 59 11 59 3*1 59 51 59 33« 61 n ; 231 5 6 / 8 9 10 11 12 1360 43 1460 19 29 26 226 54 225 14 224 44 224 6 222 14 220 45 220 58 220 19 219 7 217 41 217 o 215 5^7 215 21 213 28 2I3 7 2I3 7 Variation Eail. 21 12 24 19 24 II 26 II 23 10 24 26 22 47 27 35 51 53 44' 45* 44 434 46 53 48! 47 5^ 5*4 52^ 55l 48 45 49 inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 5 Eafterly. Strong gales, and thick wea ~9>4( I ther. { S. Eafterly. Heavy fqualls, and fliowery -Jo 4 I weather. 29,38 I Ditto. Squally, with rain at times. 29,40 , Southerly. Frefli gales, rain at times. 29,62 S. Eafterly. Gentle gales, with fhowers 30,08 E. S. E. Frcfh gales ; fqually with rain C Variable. Frefli gales, flying clouds, and -9>94 I fome rain. 29,96 J N. W. Light airs, and fine weather. r \ W. N. W. Light breezes, and fair wea 3°>l6i ther. f Variable. Light airs, and pleafant wea- 30>04{ ther. r (Northerly. Light airs, and clear wea- 29>96 [ Aer. 00 f Variable. Light breezes, and clear wea- 29'88 \ ther. 29,86 J Ditto. Light airs, and fine weather. 'Ditto. Light breezes, and fine clear weather. Ditto. Light breezes, and fine weather Eafterly. Light breezes, and cloudy. 1 Ditto. Frefli breezes, and gloomy wea- ther. S. Eafterly. Frefh gales, and thick foggy weather, with rain. At anchor in Prince William's Sound. 29*58 29,60 29.52 29,92 29,80 — I APPENDIX, No. I. 5°9 TABLE X. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Prince William's Sound to Cook's River, along the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. i778. May 18 l9 20 21 22 23 24 Latitude North. 26 27 28 29 30 31 June 60 30 60 3 60 o 59 3°7 58 22 59 9 58 Hi 59 9t 59 2° 59 5°t 60 8 60 37 61 11 61 ft Longitude Eaft. V anation I s- Eaft. 2X2 21 |2I2 12 21 I 40 2IO 6 208 42 2o8 47 207.59 207 39 206 50 207 20 207 24 207 36 208 3 208 45 209 24 23 37 23 42 to o 3 5° 46t 41 4I-I- 44 41 441 44 44 46 1 ■P 46! 46 47 Winds, Weather, and Remarks, Inches. 29,71 29,67 29,72 29,92 30,12 3°>25 375 3°,* 7 29,98 29>77 29,72 29,57 ' N. W. A gentle breeze, and clear wea- ' then Variable. Light breezes and fair wea- ther. Ditto. Light airs, and thick weather. Ditto. Moderate wind, and fair weather. Wefterly. Frefli gales, and fair weather. Ditto. Frefh gales, and fair weather. Ditto. Light breezes, and fair weather. Northerly. Frefli gales. Variable. Frefli gales. N. W. Strong gales, and thick hazy weather, with rain. I Eafterly. Light breezes, and hazy wea- ther. Variable. Frefli gales, and drizzling rain Northerly. Light winds. I Ditto. Light winds, and drizzling rain. (Calm, with fair weather, and drizzling I rain alternately. 5'° APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XI. Route of the Refolution and Diicovery from Cook's River to Samga noodha Harbour, in the lfland Oonalafhka. Time. '773- June 7 8 io II 12 *3 «5 16 «7 18 *9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Latitude North. 3 5 57 52i 57 42 57 20 57 5 57 31 56 49 ^6 22J 56 23 56 5 55 33 55 25 55 18 54 44 54 17 53 51 53 3<5; 54 !3 54 4 53 46 53 51 53 55 Longitude Eait. 2°7 45 207 54 207 39 207 25 207 33 2o6 12 205 40 205 27 202 51 20I IO 200 48 200 42 99 l6 97 29 97 IJ 96 34 95 50 95 14 94 59 94 ' 93 35 93 28 Variation Ealt. 20 31 20 22 22 32 H 3 477 5° 46 46 45 487 49. 49t 45 44 44* 47 47 43 5° 53 50 42 47 45 46 43; Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 3 Inches. 30,32 Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. 30,23 Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fair weather, lS. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and drizzling 30,17 s • ° 3 ' / I rain. \ S. E. b. S. A gentle breeze, and raifty •30'11 1 weather. I S. E. Moderate wind, drizzling rain, 9'9/ £ and thick foggy weather. \ Southerly. Moderate breeze, and foggy, 3 ' 1 with drizzling rain. 30,02 I W. S. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy weather n \ Ditto. Frefh breezes, and clofe cloudy 29>98{ weathci, (Southerly. Frefh gales, and foggy ; rain 29>5° I at times. (Variable. Frefh gales, and foggy, rain 2(-},9I 1 at times. 30,07 I Wefterly. Light winds, and clear weather. 30.06 Variable. Light wir.ds, and fine weather. 29,85 J Ditto. Light winds, and fine weather. 29,81 I N. E. Light breezes, and fair weather. JN. W. b. N. Light breezes, and fair "'' i weather. 1 29,68 ' Wefterly. Light airs, and fine weather. ) Variable. Light winds, and hazy : fome 29,C2 ) • J -"J t rain. „ ) W. S. W. A frefh gale, and cloudy; fome 9' C rain. 29.7 5: 1 Variable. Light winds, and hazy weather. „ I F.afterly. Light winds, and thick foggy •" i weather. 29,80 ' S. S. E. Frefh gales, and foggy. ( Northerly. Light breezes. Came to an ~9>7 I anchor off Samganoodha Bay. APPENDIX, No. I. 5" table };ir. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Samganoodha Bay to Briftol Bay, along the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. i77s. July 2 3 4 5 6 10 1 1 13 14 15 16 J7 18 l9 Latitude North. 54 19 55 'I2 55 49i 56 3° 56 55 57 « 57 l6 57 49i 58 184 53 53 58 53 58 58 58 59 12 22 28 54 l7 59 3° Longitude Eaft, Variation Eaft. H p- 3 0 O V O !93 33 *95 24 47 46 l97 5 44 198 43 42.1 199 36 42 200 16 *o 200 48 26 13 47 201 42 44 200 39 2 2 49 5i 200 34 48 200 t>3 22 32 5i 199 0 198 $6 198 39 197 46 5° 52 52 52t 197 25 197 36 55 54 197 45 63 - o 3 Inches. 30.24 29,78 29,67 29,68 29>73 30,01 29,98 3°>I3 30,16 30,10 30^7 30,10 33° 3°>*7 29,85 Winds, Weather, arid Remarks, E. S. E. Light airs, and fine weather. Eafterly. Modei-ate wind,* and foggy. Southerly. Moderate wind, and thick weather. Eafterly. The fame weather. Variable. Light winds, and foggy, with rain. Northerly. Light winds, and hazy. Variable. Light winds, and fine weather Ditto. Light winds, and fine weather. Ditto. A gentle breeze, and fair wea- ther. Southerly. Light winds, and foggy, with drizzling rain. Variable. Light winds, and hazy ; thun- der and lightning. Wefterly. Light winds, and fine weather. Wefterly. Light airs, and fine weather. Ditto. Light airs, and fine weather. Ditto. Light winds, and foggy at times. Variable. Light airs, and fine weather. Ditto. The fame weather. S. W. Light winds, and fair weather. At anchor off Cape Newnham. 5'2 APPENDIX, No. T. T A 3 L K XIII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Briftol Bay to Norton Sound, on the Weftcrn Coaft of America. Time. 1778. July 23 Am 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° 31 Latitude North. :8 43 53 7 53 25.i >3 37 59 JI 59 55 60 21 60 21 .61 11 61 577 61 55 62 34 63 53 64 30 64 39 64 48 6s o 65 48 Longitude baft. 96 45 94 22 92 :3 91 36 9° 57 90 o 37 35 38 11 S9 22 90 47 91 44 92 20 94 © 93 48 93 1 92 42 92 30 91 42 Variation Eaft. CI 3 O 3 18 40 53 491 5°* P3 51 54 43 55 +6 H 49; 55 52 5°' 56 49 48 t>"° Inches. 29>73 29»65 29,68 29,86 29,84 29>77 29>54 29,64 29,58 ^3 «9i77 30,01 50,00 29,76 29.75 29>35 29,70 29,70 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1 Eafterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Cape Newnham N. 390 E. diftant about ten leagues. (E. N. E. Moderate wind, and mifty I weather. ( Northerly. Moderate wind, and thick I fog. ( N. Eafterly. Little wind, and thick fog. \ Many whales, and birds. ( Northerly. Little wind, and foggy. 7 Many birds, and feals. ( N. Eafterly. Light winds, and foggy I weather. ( Northerly. Light winds, and foggy, I with rain. Many birds. j Ditto. Light winds, and moftly foggy (Variable. Little wind, and foggy wed- I ther. (Eafterly. Light winds, and cloudy: I fome rain. (Variable. Light winds, and cloudy, \ with rain. (Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy : fome I rain. j Eafterly. Moderate wind, with rain. (Variable. Moderate wind, and foggy, \ with rain. ( Southerly. Moderate breeze, and foggy, I with rain. ( Wefterly. Little wind, and thick mifty ( weather. f Variable. Little wind, and foggy, with \ rain. (N. Eafterly. Ficfh breeze, and foggy: \ fome r in. APPENDIX, No. I. 513 TABLE XIII. Continued. Route of the RefoJution and Difcovery from Briftol Bay to Norton Sound, on the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. 1778. Aug. 1 o 11 12 *3 Latitude North. 15 16 l7 18 l9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 65 36 66 5^ 66 20; 66 32- 67 28 68 18 69 57 7° 33 70 44 70 6 70 4 69 32 69 34 69 33^ 69 3° 69 38 69 ^6 69 33f 69 17 Longitude Eaft. 189 15 191 19 191 6 192 o *94 33 *93 * J93 41 !97 35 198 24 196 32 196 o 195 48 194 42 194 20 190 23 187 30 184 o 183 30 182 40 Variation Eaft. H 3 27 22 3° 41 27 '5f 35 32 35 1 31 3 21 44 23 20 45 46 5i 5° 45,1 48 42 35 337 33i 38; 42 44 44 35 1-° 37t w o 3 Inches Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 29,94 J' 29>97 } 25 56 \35l Vol. III. _ ("Northerly. Frefh gales, and fair wea- ( ther. Southerly. Light winds, and fine wea ther. Variable. Light winds, and fair wea- ther. \ Northerly. Light breezes, and fine wea- 3°>10 J ther. JS. Eafterly. A frefh breeze, and hazy; »>»"| fome rain. f Southerly. Frefh gales, and foggy, with 29>79 I rain. 29,85 i Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy weather, f. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy 3°>io1 weather. f Ditto. Frefli gales, and foggy; with 3°'°2 1 fnow and fleet. J Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy ; with fnow 3°>°7 I and fleet. S Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fojfgy wea- 29>99J ther. 29,76 I Northerly. Light winds, and thick fog. f Variable. Light breezes, and foggv 29'73 I weather. 9o"7 I Ditto. Light breezes, and thick fog. S N. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and foggy ; 30'10 I fome fnow. 0 5 Wefterly. Frefh gales, with fhowers of -9' ° I fnow and rain. , S Ditto. Frefn breezes, and cold raw 29'96 1 weather. ^Variable. Frefli gales, and cloudy; cold, 29>66 I and fome rain. f 5 Ditto. Light winds, and mifty weather ; 29'9J I fome rain. 5H APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Briftol Bay to Norton Sound, on the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Baft'. H 2 0 3 i778. 0 - O s 0 , 0 Inches. Aug. 29 68 49 l8l 26 31 29,89 3° 68 31-; lS2 32 33 30,10 31 68 6 ^5 39 35 30,21 Sept. 1 67 30 187 15 35 30,20 2 66 37" 189 20 27 57^ 34 3°,°7 3 65 28 189 5 44 29.97 4 64 38> 188 15 24 53 39 29,76 5 64 8 189 57 391 29,84 6 63 55i x93 3° 26 53 43 29,66 7 8 64 16 64 27 194 20 196 3 25 59 46 454 29,84 30,00 9 64 34: 197 41 46" 29,90 10 64 33 197 30 4i 29>97 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 'Variable. Frefh breezes: hazy; fome rain. ( N. Wefterly. Frefli breezes, and foggy ; \ with much fnow. \ N. W. b. N. Moderate wind, and hazy; \ fome fnow. (North. Moderate wind, with fnow and 1 fleet. (N. N. \V. Light winds, and much I fnow. ( N. N. W. Moderate wind ; fhowers of 1 fnow. (Northerly. Light winds, and fine wea- 1 ther. (N. N. W. Light winds; the air dry I and cold. |N. N. W. Light winds, and fairw ea- 1 ther. I Variable. Light airs, and fine weather. I Wefterly. The fame weather. (S. Wefterly. Frefh breezes, and foggy; t fome rain. (Wefterly. Light winds, and cloudy. 1 In Norton Sound. APPENDIX, No. I. 5*5 TABLE XIV. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Norton Sound to the I Hand of Oonalafhka. Time. 1778. Sept. 1 7 18 J9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Oft. Latitude North. 27 28 2y 30 I 64 IO 5 3 37 63 43 63 37 62 58 60 21^ 59 r7^ 53 31 5S 36; 53 36 j8 2 57 ° 96 30 55 2 9 54 2f 53 59 Longitude Eaft. 98 30 97 45 96 12 92 12 90 17 89 o 87 30 §9 5 9° 5i 39 15 39 43 90 28 92 2 92 50 93 ° 92 27 Variation Eaft. 22 23 l9 59 46' 42: 49 33 39 39 40 40 44 44i 45V 49 50 5° 47 45 \ 47 Inches. 29,78 29,90 29»97 9>73 29,67 29,74 29,95 5°^5 30,00 29,3° 29,25 29,41 29,69 29,75 29,77 3°,H 3°>47 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Eafterly. Light winds, and fair weather Ditto. Light winds, and fine weather. Variable. Moderate wind, and fair wea- ther. I N. Eafterly. Frefh gales, and parting clouds. j Northerly. Frefh gales, with fhowers of I fnow. (N. Wefterly. Gentle gales, with fhowers I of fnow. CN. W. A frefh breeze, and cloudy cold \ weather. j Variable. Moderate wind, and dry cloudy \ weather. f Southerly. Strong gales, and cloudy, but 1 mild weather. V S. S. E. Frefh gales, and hazy weather ; \ fome rain. C S. S. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy : 2 fome rain. C Southerly. Light winds, and moftly fair I weather. f S. W. Frefh gales, with fhowers of fleet I and rain. f Variable. Light winds, and fome fhowers I Many whales. ! S. Wefterly. Light airs, and fome fhowers f Wefterly. Light airs, and ihowery wea- | ther. ! Wefterly. Light breezes. Standing into Samganoodha harbour, in the ifland of Oonalafhka. U & APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XV. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Oonalafhka to Sandwich Hies. Time. Oct 177 8. Nov. Latitude North. 56 / 28 29 3° 31 1 2 3 Longitude Eaft. 54 8 53 59 yj 52i 53 45 52 1 49 55 +3 3< 48 1 4 45 44* 44 31 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 J3 H 42 29; 41 10 40 38 39 36 39 IO 35 38 3814 36 6 34 39 J3 33 191 41 194 56 196 2 197 10 198 28 *99 51 200 36 01 27 Variation Eaft. l9 59 202 2 202 17 202 36 203 16 205 O 206 l7 206 33 206 46 206 57 7 l5 16 5 437 44 39 33 39 41 46 43 46 49 5° 59 58 64 is 67 $2 63 69 w p •-I o 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 30,01 Variable. Strong gales, with rain. r C S. Wefterly. Strong gales, with hail and 9' \ rain. S Variable. Very flrong gales, with hail 3 * 5 I and rain. (Weft. Strong gales, with fhowers of 29'5° 1 fnow and rain. f Weft. Strong gales in fqualls, with fnow 3°>4Q J and fleet. i Wefterly. Strong gales, with hail, fnow, 30'11 } and fleet. r Ditto. Frefh gales, with thick rainy 29>95 J weather. 20, CO I Southerly. Strong gales, with rain. ( W. b. S. Strong gales, with fhowers of 29>92 j hail. 20,40 j Variable. Frefh gales, and rainy weather. cN. W. Moderate wind, and foggy 3°>23 \ weather. { S. W. Light winds, and fome rain. Saw 3°>25 I a fhagg. 10,21 I Wefterly. Light winds, and cloudy. ^0,17 North. Light winds, with rain. „ {-Variable. Light winds, with flying 3°.36 j cjQud8# f South. Moderate wind, and moftly 3°i48 j cloudy. r South. Moderate wind, and moftly 3°'3X { cloudy. r Wefterly. Frefh gale, and hazy, with J ,JJ J fome rain. rN. b. E. Light winds, and cloudy wea- 3°>43 { ther. r I'.. N. E. Light winds, and moftl) 3 >4 "j cloudy. APPENDIX, No. I. 5^7 TABLE XV. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Oonalafhka to Sandwich Jfles. Time. 1778. Nov. Latitude North. 1632 47 32 26 32 41 32 27 3° 23 «7 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 53 26 177 24 49 22 36 20 577 20 57 Longitude Eaft. 206 57 206 51 207 52 206 44 205 5* 206 28 206 25 206 o 205 30 204 38 203 28 Variation Eaft. I I 57 69 76 74 71 65 67 684 I2" 78 81-; 8H 03 "-I O 3 Inches. 3°>35 3°>45 3°>32 3°,I5 3°>I7 30,21 3P»3 J 3°>3° 30,26 30,22 30,16 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. Eafterly. Light winds, and cloudy. Several dolphins. Eafterly. Light winds, and fine weather S. S. E. Moderate wind, and fine weather. Southerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Variable. Strong gales, with rain. Northerly. Strong wind, and fhowery weather. North. Light winds, with fhowers. Northerly. Light winds, and fine weather E. N. E. A frefh breeze, and fine weather. Eafterly. Frefli gales with fhowers. Ditto. Frefh breeze, and fine weather. Sandwich Ifles, from E. by the S. to W. TABLE XVf. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to the Bay of St. Peter and Paul in Kamtlchatka. Time. J779- March 15 16 ll 18 19 2C Latitude North. 47 21 27 21 18 21 12 21 11 :o C2 Longitude Eaft. l99 31 198 50 197 2 195 26 194 28 193 22 Variation Eaft. ■ IO 4 9 IO 11 3° 2 75 74 75 i 11 741 1S\ Cd 3 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. Oneeheow, from N. E. 7 E. to Eaft ; and Tahoora,, S. W. b. \V. about three leagues diftant. 30, 1 7 Eafterly. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. 30,20 E.N. E. Frefh breezes, and fair weather, N. E. b. E. Moderate wind, and fair 3 ' I weather. { N. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair. 3°>l6 I Many boobies. ( N. N. E. Light wind, and fair weather ^l2 I Many fharks. 5.18 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XVI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ides to the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, in Kamtfchatka. Time. Lati: Longitude Variation Eaft. 2 03 0 a i/7'J > O O / O > 0 Inches. March 21 20 37 UJ2 13 I I 26 77 30,21 22 23 24 2D 27 19 58 l9 S.6 190 ^ t88 22 186 O I I 51 77 73 81 3°r-3 3°>24 30,21 25 19 J8 1 8 j. 12 1 II 14 83I 30,18 26 19 48 183 9 73 30,16 2 7 19 49' r82 29 12 8 84; 30,10 28 20 6 l8l 23 85: 3°P6 29 20 16 ISO 59 83 30,00 3° 20 21 i So 25 78 30,00 31 2° 35 J79 47 80^ 3°>°7 April 1 21 14 179 3 * I I 21; 79 30,10 2 22 36 177 20 76 30,20 3 24 38^ 175 21 151 30,21 4 26 21 '73 36 73 3°>3° 5 6 28 33 30 13 171 47 170 13 71 69 30,12 29,98 .7 3° (K 168 15 59 3°,24 8 3° 39 167 4 9 9 62 3° A6 9 32 16 166 39 ^>7 3°A2 JO 33 3°1 166 0 63 3°>42 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fair wea- ther. Several bonetos about. E. b. N. Moderate wind, with fome rain. N. E. b. E. Erefh breezes, with rain. E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fome rain. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair wea- ther. Several men-of-war birds. Eafterly. Light winds, and fair Weather. The birds remain with us. • Eaft. Light wind*, and fine weather. E. N. E. Light winds, and fine weather. Many men-of-war birds. Eafterly. Light winds, and fine weather. Boobies, and men-of-war birds. Southerly. Light winds, and fome rain. Porpoiies, dolphins, and birds. Southerly. Light airs, and hot fultry weather. Eafterly. Light winds, and cloudy. Dol- pbins, and men-of-war birds. N. Eafterly Erefh gales, and fquallj weather. Palled a turtle. N. Eafterly. Ertih gales, and cloudy. E. N. E. Freih gales, and hazy, with rain; fome lightning. Eafterly. Freih gales, and hazy, with rain. Variable. Frefh gales, with rain. N. b. W. Freih gales, and fqually, with rain. Saw an albatrois. N. Eafterly. Erefh breezes, and cloudy ; fbme rain. S. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and f 1 weather. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy ; fome rain. APPENDIX, No. I. 519 TABLE XVI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich liles to the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, in Kamtfchatka. Ti me. •779- April 1 1 12 »3 H *5 16 T7 18 J9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Latitude North. 35 32 37 I0 39 3° 40 53 41 52 42 12; 43 18 46 9 48 40 49 43 50 25* 1 33 52 n Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. J2 3° 52 40 5- 35 52 45 52 45 165 30 164 34 163 20 162 13 160 42 159 4i 160 o 160 48 161 14 161 30 161 48 160 7 J59 37 *59 4° l59 3o l59 43 159 43 160 o H 5- -1 3 W 6 20 9 33" 02 50 49 45 42 41 41 37 32 36 30 30 3° 3ot 29: 291 34 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. f Southerly. Frefh breezes, and fqually ; -9'94 £ ibme rain. \ Variable. Frefh gales, and hazy ; fome 3°'42 I rai„, Birds. j Eafterly. Frefh gales, and hazy, with 3°>33 J 29>94 Some divers. 3°>3° 3°,3°5 J with fhowers of fhow. -50,16 j N. Eafterly. Freih breezes, and cloudy. f N. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy. 7 j Saw the continent of Afia. f N. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foqgy, 3°»13j with fleet. 30,55 j N. E. Frefh gales, and hazy, with fleet 29,90 I N. E. Freih gales, with much fnow. f N. Eafterly. Frefh gales, and foggy, with ?o,2o i r J ' I fnow. fN. N. E. Moderate breezes, with fleet. The North point forming the entrance into the bay of St. Peter and Paul, bore N. 49° Weft, diftant about three L leagues. 520 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XVII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that Place. Time. Latitude Longitude Variation North. Halt. Eaft. n a 0 3 »779- 0 « O • 0 , 0 Inches. June 17 52 46 [59 XI 7 59t 497 29>74 18 52 39 *59 42 8 59 42T 29,92 *9 53 59 [61 17 46 29>95 20 54 537 162 48 45 29>97 21 55 5H 163 42 47" 3°>°3 22 56 48 lH 45 52 29.75 23 57 JI 165 47 487 3°>°3 24 58 *9i 167 20 13 lxt 46* 29,92 25 59 8 168 16 13 10 5°i 30,06 26 59 27 170 46 44; 3°i°7 27 59 5 2 *75 44 l3 3° 43 29,96 28 61 56 176 2 17 19 5°* 29,60 29 62 4 178 24 • 44> 29.43 3° 61 49 180 17 41' 29.71 July 1 62 10 iSr 13 44 29,72 2 62 38 182 49 45 29,82 i &3 35 186 57 44 30,09 ^ 64 33 188 51 26 53 42 30,16 i 65 42 189 47. 42; 3°>°7 € 67 0 191 24 40 29,87 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. .72 • (Variable. Light winds, and hazy, with I fome rain. (S. E. b. E. Light winds, and foggy ( weather. (S. S. W. Light winds, and thick foggy ( weather. ( S. b. W. Frcfh gales, and foggy weather, \ Many birds. (Variable. Moderate wind, and hazy weather. Variable. Moderate wind, and fome rain Variable. Light winds, and foggy. ' S. S. W. Moderate wind, and foggy at times. Southerly. Light winds, and foggy at times;. 1 S. W. b. S. Moderate wind, and very ; f°ggy- S. W. Frefh gales, and foggy. Main- gulls. ' S. W. Moderate wind, and hazy. Birds i[ and drift-wood. [ Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy ; [ fome rain. Ditto. Light breezes, and hazy wea ther. Variable. Light winds, and foggy; fome rain. I .Southerly. Light winds, and thick fog. ! SLE. Moderate wind, and moflly foggy ( S. E. Light winds, and foggy, at times, f Southerly. Light airs, and foggy. Many I whales and birds. (S. b. E. Moderate wind, and Hazy. Met I with ice. APPENDIX, No. I. 521 TABLE XVJI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that Place. Time. 1779. July 7 8 9 ic 1 1 12 l3 14 *5 16 *7 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Latitude North. 68 22 h 25 69 1 1 68 1 ^7 51 68 41 69 29 69 37 69 36 69 55 69 55 •70 26 7O I I 69 37 69 37 69 27 69 3 68 51 68 38 67 59 Longitude Lalt. 92 l8 92 39 88 54 88 50 S9 21 89 o 88 10 89 4 9° l7 93 7 95 14 96 18 97 4 95 * 93 7 33 35 87 29 88 37 90 2 88 27 Variation Eaft. 27 22 21 39 29 28 27 32 26 10 35 37 31 20 28 59 1 48 37 32 32 39 .38 37 36 41 35 32 37 37 4i 1-4 48 37 3Z 39 Inches. Winds, "Weather, and Remarks. r f Southerly. Moderate wind, and foggy; ""' 7 1 ■vvith rain. Sea-horfes. J Variable. Light winds, and foggy, with ,71 I *9 fnow and rain. 29,60 |' j N. b. W. Freih gales, and hazy, with ?9'44 I fnow, and cold weather. f N. W. Light winds, and foggv, with 29'52 I fnow. Q (N. Eafterly. Light winds and foggy, 29>4y I with fnow and fleet. 29,18 I Northerly. Light winds, rain and fleet. 29,78 I Variable. Moderate wind, rain and fleet. , f Eafterly. Light winds, and foggy, with ' 7 J rain and fleet. (Variable. Light winds, and thick foggy 1 I weather. S. Wefterly. Strong wind and foggy, with fnow and fleet. (S. Wefterly. Freih gales, with fnow and **S°t fleet. 0 3 Variable. Light winds and foggv, with 29>bo \ fnow and fleet. (Ditto. Light winds, and thick foggy -''-' \ weather. 29,90 j Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy. { Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy 9>7 I weather. 29,46 1 Eafterly. Frefh gales, with rain. JEalterly. Moderate wind, and foggy ~J'4 \ weather. f Variable. Moderate wind, and foggy; ")"> " \ forne rain. 29,97 I S. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and foggy. Q \ Southerly. Freih gales and cloudy wea^ 29 ther. Vol. 111. X ;22 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XVII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that place. Time. • 77y- July 2 Aug. / 28 29 3° 31 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 13 "4 1 ■ 16 Latitude North. 67 47 67 9 66 50 66 20 65 5 64 25i 64 1 64 5 64 o 62 18 60 47 59 35 59 5 58 49 58 26 97 2; 56 28 >5 23 >4 5° 74 i° ;4 22 Longitude Eaft. 88 27 89 46 90 52 91 20 89 20 89 45 89 57 89 26 88 11 86 1 84 3i 83 30 80 42 77 4 74 18 72 41 71 46 70 50 71 26 71 14 70 40 Variation Eait. 11 C2" J9 47 24 38 18 25 11 34 11 11 n Sr 37 43 42 42 42 40 47 45 41 42- 43 44 45 48 48 49J> 5° 48 48 P Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. 29,80 29,86 29,80 29,60 29,82 29.79 29>73 29,61 29,57 29,46 29.75 3°>x4 2 9,5° 28,95 28,91 29>x5 29,40 29,77 29,93 29,96 29,84 f Variable. Light winds, and foggy, with 1 rain. 1 Southerly. Moderate wind, and hazy. fS. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair j weather. I Variable. Little wind, and thick fog. (Northerly. Moderate wind, and foggy \ fome rain. ( Variable. Light winds, and foggy wea- | ther. J Southerly. Moderate wind and foggy. ( Eafterly. Little wind, and hazy wea- \ ther. j Southerly. Light winds, and foggy. (Northerly. Frelh gales, and hazy, with I rain. (Wefterlv. Freih gales, and hazy: fome \ rain. (Ditto. Moderate wind, and hazy : fome \ rain. (Southerly. Frefh gales, and fair wea- \ ther. (Southerly. Frefh gales, and ft \ with rain. I Variable. Moderate wind ; fome r. (Wefterlv. Moderate wind, and hazy; I fome rain. ( Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy wea- l ther. (Ditto. Moderate wind, and fair wca- / ther. (S. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy; ( fome rain. I Wefterlv. Moderate wind, and cloudv • Ditto. Light winds and hazy APPEND! X, No. I. 52 T A B L E XVil. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that place. Time Am «779- Latitude- North. r753 48 1852 38 *9p 38 20 53 7 21 53 45 2*53 S 23 52 46 2452 52 Longitude Variation H Eaft. Eaft. 168 19 167 50 165 21 l62 40 l6l 38 l6o 36 l6o IO 158 43V 9 55 6 18 6 12 6 20; u o 3 49l 57 57 56 57 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches, 5 2C jo. 0 2 I N. Wefterly. Moderate, and fair weather f Wefterly. Moderate wind, and fair ' •* \ weather. ,, f Southerly. Frefh gales, and cloudy, with - ' I rain. f Variable. Frefh gales, and cloudy wea J°'°3 I ther. fS. W. Moderate wind, and hazy wea f Variable. Light winds, and cloudy ; -9»97 j fomc rajn> 29,92 j Wefterly. Light winds, and cloudy. {N. W. b. N. Moderate wind, and fair weather. In the bay of St. Peter and Paul. TABLE XVIII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul to Macao in China. Time. >779 Oft. 1 1 12 14 15 Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. H B" 2 0 • 0 / O s 0 52 38 158 37 6 207 60 52 5 158 3° 6 3 47 51 ° 157 22 5 17 46 49 49 i56 47 4 49 42 48 17 *55 3° 43 46 31 *55 2° 5 H 44 w o 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. _ r N. W. b. N. Light winds, and fine wea- 29>7« j ther. 29,93 J Variable. Moderate wind, and cloudy. n, { Northerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy ; 29>86j fome/ain. { Variable. Moderate wind, and fine wea- 29>55\ ther. 0 [ Wefterly. Moderate wind, and fine wea- 29>8°{ ther/ 30,09 ' Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers 3X 2 524 APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XVIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul to Macao in China. Time. 1779. Oft. 16 Latitude North. Nov. 4? 27 45 7 1844 28 J9 44 15 °43 47 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 42 40 40 59" 4° 35 40 48 4° 2 5 4° 5 39 i6i 38 15 Longitude Eaft. 2(J 30 31 I 37 45 3C 41 35 33 35 J7' 2|35 43 48; ]S 15 55 23 53 47 52 46 5° 36 5° 24 49 20 48 o 46 39 45 3° 44 2 42 25 43 2 42 6 41 5° 42 3 42 3 41 29 41 15 44 48 46 33 47 «8 Variation Eaft. 4 39 4 54 2 27 o 49 1 J3 1 1 / 1 20 1 41 3 H 2 58J 47 48 5° 49 45 44 5 « 59 53 62 62 62 60 ^3 69 71 73 75 Inches. 3°,l5 337 29,92 336 29,96 30,00 30,02 3°»J5 3°»I4 30." 29.93 30,10 3°»35 3°>29 30,02 29.85 29,86 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. f Wefterly. Moderate wind, and fine wea- | ther. fN. Wefterly. Light winds, and fine I weather. f Wefterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy; J with ihowers. (Southerly. Strong gales, and cloudy; I fome rain. ( Ditto. Moderate wind, and thick hazy I weather. Variable. Strong gales, with rain. 'N. Wefterly. Frefh gales, and fair wea- l ther. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. S. Wefterly. Frefh gales, with rain. 1 ' Variable. Frefh gales, and hazy ; fome rain. fVariabta Moderate wind, and fair wea- | ther. Saw the coaft of Japan. ( Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Saw I the Eaft coaft of Japan. (Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. All day I within fight of Japan. (Southerly. Frefh gales, and hazy; fome I rain. I Variable. Brifk wind, and hazy weather. (Ditto. Moderate wind, and fair wea- j ther. I Ditto. Moderate wind, and fine weather. ! S. S. E. Frefh breezes, and fair weather. \S. b. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy, with rain. (S. S. W. Moderate wind, with fome 1 lightning and rain. ' Variable. Light winds, with rain. APPENDIX, No. I. 525 TABLE XVIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, to Macao in China. Time. 1779. Nov. 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 *3 '4 IJ 16 *7 18 *9 20 21 2 2 23 24 25 26 Latitude North. 35 1 33 5° 33 6 31 46 30 42 29 7 27 36 25 59 H 36l 24 49 25 7 24 45 23 45 22 47 22 5 1 26 ^o 48 21 10 21 29 21 33 21 12 21 c Longitude Eaft. 47 28 48 40 48 45 46 15 45 2° 44 20 44 26 43 27 42 9 4i 15 39 2 37 56 35 36 33 22 31 15 29 3 26 39 23 38 22 24 21 24 20 12 18 22 Variation Eaft. 3 59 n a 5 3 49 2 49 2 57 1 491 2 15 o ofE. '© 71 69 68-,1 69 707 70 72 74 79 8ii 7C 75 77 77 80 75i 75 74 /3i 73 fcd O 3 Inches 30,18 ;, Winds, Weather, and Remarks. I Variable. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers. 30,19 j Ditto. Frefli breezes, and fair weather. 30,14 Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. 29,78 I Northerly. Light winds, with rain, ^o f Ditto. Frefh gales, and thick rainy ^' ( weather, o \ Ditto. Frefli gales, and dark rainy weather. 29 2 j N. N. E. Strong gales, and thick rainy ** t weather o JN.W. 9)8 1 -J -" i rain. Strong wind, and foggy, with J Northerly. Moderate wind, and fine •^ ' •* I weather. 0 J Ditto. Moderate wind, and fine wea- 3°>l8l ther. JEafterly. Moderate wind, and fine ' ' $ X weather. o (Variable. Moderate wind, and fine ^ ' I weather. 30,3l 3°»34 70' 3°>24 30,16 I Northerly. Frefh gales, and cloudv N. E. b. N. Frefli gales, and cloudy, with fhowers. E. N. E. Frefli gales, with fome fhowers. E. N. E. Moderate wind, with fhowers. 30.10 ' N. E. Frefli gales, with rain. \ N. E. Strong gales, and rainy wea- 3°>°4 i ther. 29,91 j N. E. Frefh gales, and much rain. 29,99 I N. N. E. Strong wind, with rain. f N. N. E. Frefh eale?, and cloudv; fome "->,oi < ram. n \ Norther:-'. Frefh rales, and hazy'; fome ■30,08 < . • ° J •J ' j rain ram. APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XVIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, to Macao in China. Time. 1779- Nov. 28 29 3° Dec. 1 Latitude 20 42 « 51 22 8 Longitude Eaft. 1 16 42 11 5 54 114 9 "3 43 V..riaii'jn Eaft. o 32W, 71: 71 69 67 66 Inches Winds, Weather, and Remarks. fN. N. E. Frefh erales, and cloudy: fome J > ^ £ ram. 30,15 \ N. E. FreJh gales, and cloudy. N. E. Freili breezes, and cloudy ; for e f N. E. ;o,20 1 1 ' ) rain. f N. b. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy;; 3 ' ' 7 fome rain. r Variable. Frefli breezes, and cloudv. '•* £ At anchor at Macao. TABLE XIX. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1730. Jan. »3 *4 «5 16 «7 18 »9 20 Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Weft. 20 34 18 57 16 39 H 39 12 32 10 22 "3 53 IX4 3 Ir4 5 ^3 13 112 o io9 43 106 45 ° 39, 1 24; 6S 7- 69; 73 75 73 73 61 O 3 Inches. 30,26 30,23 3°,l5 30,10 .>°>25 30,26 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. f The Typa diftant three miles. The Grand J Ladrone E. diftant live or fix miles. fN. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair I weather. J E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fair wea- | ther. fN. Eafterly. Brifk wind, with fome I rain. f Ditto. Frefh gales, and cloudy; fome I rain. fN. E. b. N. Frefli gales, and cloudy; I fome rain. f N. N. E. Frefli gales, and fqually wea- { ther. t N. E. Frelh gales, and fair weather. APPENDIX, No. I. 527 TABLE XIX. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. Jan. Feb. 21 29 3° 31 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Lat'tude North. *9 20 21 22 2; 24 8 39 6 53 5 2 3 18 121 0 25 S, 1 48 2 22 3 9 4 33 5 21 5 38 7 32 8 30 9 23 10 , 1 1 47 13 Longitude Eait. 06 30 °5 35 °4 45 04 29 °5 >5 ^5 J5 °5 3 05 38 06 12 06 15 06 o °5 45 °5 IC °5 4 04 48 04 24 03 46 03 10 o 30 o 26I E Variation Weft. 75 79 78 78 78i 80 81 81, 83 81 78 82 80 2 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. N. b. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy wea ther. From this day to the 28th, at anchor at Pulo Condore. fN. F_. b. E. Frefh breezes, and fair 3°>10 I weather. JN. E, Moderate wind, and cloudy 3°>10 I weather. \ N. E. b. N. Moderate breezes, and fine 1°>°7 I weather. j N. b. E. Frefh breezes, and clear wea- 3°>°5\ ther. 30,09 I North. Light winds, and clear. 5 N. N. E. Light winds, and clear. Light- 7 I ning, S. W. (N. Eallerly. Light breezes, and fair; 3°'°9 [ fome lightning. 5 Northerly. Light breezes, and fidr wea 3°>°° i ther. J Northerly. Liirht breezes, and fair wea- 3°>00 1 ther. ■ J Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy ; fome 29'97 [ lightning. {Ditto. Light winds; thunder, light 1 ning, and rain. From this time to the -9>9° 1 igth, at Prince's lfland, in the Straits L of Sunda. 29,96 i W. N. W. Light airs, and cloudy. j N. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and ^ { cloudy ; fome rain. 9,90 1 Wefterly. Light airs, and hazy.. ( W. N. W. Moderate wind, and cloudy, 9>89 I with fhowcrs \ Northerly. Moderate wind, andLcloudy, 29>3° { With rain. 20,86 i Variable. Frefh gales, with rain . APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XIX. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. Feb. 25 26 2/ 28 29 March 1 Latitude South. 13 24 J3 35 i'3 57 14. $6 »5 53 16 52 17 12 Longitude Eaft. Variation Well. 17 59 18 25 54J9 2 19 14 19 40 8 9 10 1 1 12 1 - ■ i i( 20 1 20 -3 20 39 20 49 21 6 21 28 22 2 22 37 -3 ■3 H 14 101 31 IOO o 99 20 97 43 94 5° 92 1 1 89 35 87 33 84 24 S3 12 81 11 78 49 76 58 75 IO 73 2° 71 47 22 6; 2 64 62 61 28 ?9 53 2 47 3 IX hi O 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. S 57 79 78 Si 79 79 79 78 79 78, 78 79 781 84 81 81 1 2 Si So; 80; 81 So 81 Inches. 3°>°7 30,01 29,98 30,12 30,10 3°>l9 30,21 30,16 30,17 30,15 3°'J9 { times. , \ S. E. b. E. Strong wind, with rain at J 'J ^ tunes. 30,25 [ S. E. Moderate wind, and fine weather, ( S. Eafterly. Moderate breezes : ibme to, 10 < • J -} ' J / rain. ( Ditto. Moderate wind, and fine wea- 3°'°9J ther. r Variable. Moderate wind ; thunder, 29>8o j lightning, and rain. 30,2 1 I Ditto. Light winds ; fome rain. CS. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and clear 3°i-3 i weather. _ f Southerly. Light winds, and fair wea- 3°>28 { ther. 30,27 I Eafterly. Light winds, and hazy. 30,17 1 South. Moderate wind, and cloudy. _ rEaft. Moderate wind, and fine wea °>o8{ ther. r Variable. Light winds, and hazy ; fome 0»H{ rain. rS. S. W. Light winds, and pleafar.t 3°>24 j weather. r r Southerly. Light airs, and clear wea- 3°>26 1 ther. 29,98 i S. W. Light winds, and hazy. f Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy ; 3°'°° [ rain at times. __ 3 Y 53° APPENDIX, No. I. TABLE XIX. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovcry from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. April 9 10 n Latitude South. o ' 35 7 34 31 34 36 Longitude Eaft. 19 5° l8 40 iS 20 Variation Weft. 67 69 67 3 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. r Southerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy ; 3 > J j fome rain. f Variable. Frefh gales, and fqually ; fome 3°>°° } rain# Wefterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. At noon, the Cape of Good Hope N. b. W. and the Table Mountain N. b. E. v E. A comparative T [N. B. The Malaye APPENDIX, No. II. ABLE of NUMERALS, exhibiting the Affinity and Extent of Language, which is found to prevail in all the Iflands of the Eaftern Sea, and derived from that fpoken on the Continent of Alia, in the Country of the Malayes. bein<* confidercd as the root, three fpecimens of its Numerals (land feparate, at the top of the Table. The derivative branches are ranged and numbered, according to the longitudinal fituation of the feveral places, proceeding from Mada^afcar the moft Weltern boundary, Eaftward to tarter Ifland. In the inftances marked with a Star, liberty has been taken to feparate the Article from the Numeral, j Malay. Malay at Sumatra, Malay, Ofiey Satu, Satoo, - Sa. T-wo, Dua, Duo, - - Dua. Thrce^ Tiga, - Teego, - Teega. • - Four, Enpat, Ampat, - - Ampat. Five, Lyma, - Leemo, - Leema, Six, Nam, - Anam, - Nam, and Anam. Sevetty Toufou, Toojoo, - Toojoo. Eight, Niaet Tea, De-lappan, Sambalan, Sapola, Slappan, Sambilan, Sapooloo, - - Delapan. Sambelan. Sapooloo. Herbert, p. 368. Mar/den^ p. i 58. Forflers Obfcrvations,^, 284. I. IT. m. IV. V VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XT. KIT. XUT. Madagafiar. Madagajcar. Madagajcar. Madagafiar. Achecn, in Suma- tra. Lampoon, in Su- matra. Batta, in Sumatra. Rejang, in Suma- tra. Princes Ifland. Java. Tagales of Leuco- nia, or Manilla. Pampangos* or Philippine. Mindanao* Iflee, or Efla - Efer I (To - Iffc Sah ' - Sye SaJah Do Hcgie Sigi Yfa Id, Metong Ifa Rooe Rooa Tone Rica Dua Rovvah Duo _ - Dooy Dua Lorou Dalava, or Dalova Ad dua Daua Tulloo, or Tailloo Talii Tello Tellou Tloo Tulloo Toloo Tellou Tollu Tullu Tatl, or Yclo - At-lo Tulu. Efax, or Efar EtTutchi Effad EfetS Paat Am pah Opat M-pat Opat Pappat Apat Apat Apat Lime, or Lcman - Deeme Fruto Limi Leemung Lecmah Leemah Lema Limah Limo Lima Lima Lima One, or Aine Eanning Woubla Ene Nam Annam Onam Noom Gun nap Nunnam Anim Anam Anom Heitoo, or Petoo Feeto Sidda Titnu Too-joo Pee too Pa i too Toojoo a Tudj u. Petu Pi to Pitu Petoo Balloo - Varlo Foulo Walou D'Lappan Ooalloo Ooalloa De-lapoon Delapan Wolo Valo Valo Walu Seeva - Seve Malo Sivi Sakoor/.ng- Seewah Seeah SembiLn Salapan Son go Siyam Siam Seaow Foroo, and Fooloo Folo Nel Tourou Saploo Pnoloo Sapooloo De Pooloo Sapoulo Sapoulo Polo and Pobo - Apalo Sanpoolu Parkinfon, p. 205. Drurjk p. 457. Herbert, p. 22. . Sir Jofeph Banks* Marfden,p. 168. Marfden,p. 16S. Marften, p. l .68. Marfan, p. 168. Sir Jfiph Banks, in Hawkefworth, S$r fofeph Banks, Former's Obfir- Forflers Obser- Ft Voyage, inHawkcfwtrthi in Hawkefworth, vations, p. 284. vations, p. 284. p. 399. Vol. iii. p. 777. Vol. iii. p. 777. Vol. iii. p. 777. XIV. XV. XVI ■ 1 X""T. XIX. XV. XXT. XXII. xxm. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. Ifle of Savu. Ifland ofSavu, or Savoo. Ifle of Ccram. Ifle of Mofcs. ibid. New Guinea. Anno 1616. Papptta of New Guinea. Tierra del Efpiritu Santo. New Caledonia. New Caledonia, Malicolo. Tanna. Tanna. Zealand. Ifle, or Uffe UlTe O Ecura Kaou Tika Ofer P*3 •Wag Eeaing •Par Ai *Tfee Kaee *Ret Tee *Ree Dee ' Rooe Lhua O Looa Roa Roa Serou Wa Roo Par Roo . - E-Ry - - Car Roo Ka Roo Ru Tulloa Tullu O Toloo Tolo.i Tula Kior Wat Eeen Par Ghen E-Rei Ka Har Ku Har - '1 oroa Uppa Uppa •O pjtoo. - Wati Fatt-i Tiak tu w 3 Wat Bacek - Par Bai E-Bacs . KaFa Kai Phar Ha Lumee Lumme O Lcema Rima i^in:. , or Liman Rim Wan Nim Pa Nim E-Reem Ka Rirrom - K' Reerum Rema Unna Unna O Loma Eno Wamma Onim Ono Petoo Pedu O Pee to Lvijtfou Fita Tik 193 Etu Aroo Ann O Aloo Ei-ilou Wala War lH Warou Saio Saou O Teeo Sivva Siwa Siou Iva Singooroo Singooroo O Pooloo Sanga Pou!.-> Sanga Foula Samfoor r »£■ Anga Hourou Parkinfon, p. 1 jo. Lieut. Cook, Parkinfon, He era, from Lc Htrrerayfrom Le ForejVs Voyage^ Cotk, Vol. ii. Cook, Vol. ii. Forfar, p. 284. Cook, Vol. ii. Forflcr, p. 284. Cook, Vol. ii. /-.. '. Cook, 1770. Hawkef. Vol. iii. p. 200- Matre, p. 82. Maire, p. 8 1 . p. 402. p. 91. p. 364. p. 364. p. 364. Hm ^/'.Vol.ui. P-7°3- P- 475- XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. XX xu XXX". XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI, XXXVII. xxxvii r. XXXIX. New Zealand. New Zealand. Horn I/lands. 1616. Ifle cf Cocas, Anno 16 1 6- Friendly Iflands. Ifland of Atnfler- dam. Sandwich Iflands. Otaheite. Otaheite. Mar qui fas. Marqu'tfas. Softer Ifland. Eajlerlfland, Ka Tahe - - Tahai Tacij, or Taci Taci A Tahaw Tahac H Tohe •A Tahay *A Tahaee Bo Dahai Kat Tahaee - Ko T-hai Ka Rooa Rooa Loua, of Loa - Loua Looa Looa ^> f> rr Rooa E Rooa A Ooa Bo Hooa Rooa Rooa Ka Tarroa Toroa Tolou Tolou 'i oloo Tooroa S ° **" Torhoa To roo A Toroa Bo Dooo To roo T uroj Ka Wha - T'Fa Fa, and D'Fa Fa T'Fa A Faa ' p1 3 Ha A Haa A Faa UoHa Haa, and Faa Haa Ka Reema - Reema Lima Lima Nee ma Neema s i 11 Lemi E Reema A Aeema Bo Heema Reema ". Ka Onoo Honnoo Houw Houno Vano tn Ji, Whaine A Ono A Ono Bo Na Honoo Hono l» Ka Wheetoo Widdoo Fituu Fidda u> Hitoo A Heitoo A Wheetoo - Bo HiJdoo Hcedoo H.ddoo Ka Warroo Warroo Walou Varoo •"* 0 Wallhoa A Waroo A Waoo Bo Wahoo Varoo Varoo Ka Eeva Heeva Ywou, Heeva 9s Iva A Eeva A Eeva Bo Heeva Heeva Heeva Kaca Haowroo Anga Uorro Ongc Foula Onge Foula Ongofooroo ? J3 Hoolhoa A Hooroo C Wiiannahoo,fl«rf?Tj Xt i_ ; Wh.mnahooe. ^ C Atta Hooroo £ Anna Hooroo f Ana Hooroo Parkinfon, p. 128. Ferfler, p. 284, Her > era, from Le Herrera,from Le Forflcr's Obfer- Cook, Vol ii. p. Anderfon's Voca- Parkinfon, p. 64. Cook, Vol. ii. Cook, Vol. ii. Forflcr's Olfir- Cook, Vol. ii. Forflcr's Obfer- Main, p. 81. Main 1 p. 81. vat. p. 284. 364- bulary, in Appendix* this p. 346. p. 364. vations, p. 284. p. 364. vatiom, p. 284. [ To front p. 530. Vol. III. ] [ 53i J APPENDIX, No. III. VOCABULARY of the LANGUAGE of the FRIENDLY ISLANDS, May, &c. 1777. Friendly IJles. Englifii. Ve faine, ' A woman. Maiee, Bread-fruit. Fukkatou, Barter. Woa, Admiration. My, fogge, Good. Attahoa, A bead •, a necklace. Koehaa, orKohaeea iWhat is that? ox what is the name of it ? Magoo, Give me. Le laiee, Good. Hou, Come here. Moree, Afhaddock. Omee, Give me. Hobba, A fort of plantain. Koajee, or Kaoojee , Done -, fnified. Koeea, Yes ; it is fo. Amon, Got ; to hold f aft. Horo, horo, A handkerchief or wiper. Ongofooroo, 'Ten. Gehai, or geefai, 'There •, and that. Kato, A bafket. Egeeai, A mat they wear round them. Friendly IJles. Englifh. Fooroo, or fooloo, Hair. Fooee vy, The leg. Tooa vy, Upper part of the foot, Fooloo,fooloo,matta,7# Elango, Afly. derful. Haingoo, toohiee, A tropic bird. Tongge my, Bring it here. Epalla, A bird's tail. Ai, {long) angrily, No. Kapukou, A wing. Tamma, Boy, man, friend, calU Hepoona, To fly. ing to one. TogottOj To lie down'. Eekoou, 534 A Y Y £ JN D L A, INO. 111. Friendly ljles. Englifh. Friendly IJles. Englifh; Eeekoou, Here am I ; anfwering Ao, Clouds. one who calls* Jeela, A canoe'' s yard. Haloo, Go -, to go. Laa, A fail. Hengalo, At a dijlance, a great Falle wakaeea, The hut in a large way off. canoe. Eafee, or Eafoi, Hire. Faee, To play. Ychaeea [inquift- Tallafoo, The fireplace in a Urge lively), Wha't is that? boat. Kohaee koa, or Goolee, A fort of windlafs, or Kowykoa, What is your name? belaying place for the Kovee, or Kovee- rcpe of their fail. eea, Bad. Tataa, A fcoop for bailing out Bongee, bongee, To-morrow. a boat. Peepee, A pair offci£ars. Taia, White. Chenna, Friend, I fay ; hark ye. Oolee, Black. Geelee, or geeree, Thejkin. Goola, Red. Etchee, To peel a cocoa nut. Ohooafee, S?»oke. Taha pal, One thing, as a day, Geeai, A clofe kind of mat. &fc. Fofooa, Pimples. Totto, Blood. Maaloonga, High, mountainous. Roatoo, Shall I go. Mai, Motions with the bands Whakae, Look, fee. in dancing. Whakae my, Let me fee it. Touvaa, A cap or bonnet they Arooweevo, Below; to let down a wear to Jlmde them rope, or to go down from the fun. over the flAp's fide to Majeela, A large bamboo fiJJjing- trade. rod. Aingy, Large clams or cockles. Pai, A thing. Eeegee, A chief. Mamahce, rain. ] atooa, God. lichee, or Eeke, Small, little. A bo, To-night, at night. Cheeatta, A looking-glafs. Any, Prefently, by and bye. Tangameeme, A bladder. Elan gee, Thejky. Goobainga, Afifhing net. Elaa, The fun. Elilb, Below, underneath. 7 l-.lff, APPENDIX, No. III. &* Friendly IJles. Englifh. Friendly IJles. EngliQi. Faee, To Jhave. Fageeta, A ceremony of kiffing, Motooa, A parent. &c. on a new ac- Mourn y, To p addle ; or row. quaintance* Avy, ava, or govy. A harbour or anchoring- Goomaa, A rat. place. Agoota, oomoo, To put a thing in an Po> taha, pai, In one day. oven. Ebaika, A large bat. Oomoo, An oven. Kakaa, A parrot. Eadda, A path. Tooge, Marks on the cheek, Mattabaa, A door. made by beating. Togga, A large flick ufed as a Nono, To hide a thing. bar behind the door. Fonooa, orKaeengn , Land. Koheeabo, The paper mulberry Bccoo, A palm which bears plant. clufters of very fmall Faa, Palm, called Pandanus. nuts. Tangata, cmngatta,/? man. Haoomoo, A large blunt fort of Taheina, A child. plantains. Onne, onne, Whitefand, Goolo, A globular earthen pot, Pai, . Ripe, old. or veJJ'el. Ha, A fence made of bam- Manga, mangatei, A large blue far -fiJJj. boo, &c. Hainga, A parroquet. Toee-, The wood which they Maagonna, Full, jatisfied zvith eat- make their canoes of. ing. Mafaee, Wafps nejls built in the Maheena, The moon. pod of a plant. Tedeeaivoo, A jecret. Kappe, A large cylindrical edible Fonooa bou, A land of plenty. root. Oobai, Afong. ^ngo, ongo, A Jmall palm growing Foolehaioo, The green wattle bird. to the height of eight Pailoo, A Ipoon. feet. Kxillc, velaive, A large white fpider, Gooholla, It is gone, or flown. with brown a;,.. Mai, kawaia, To take away a thing. white legs. Mai, Evaheeoo, 1 o let a thing remain. Raeenga, , S3.6 Friendly IJles. Kaeenga, Fyatooka, Woee, Koeee, Waggee hou, Bai, Laika, laika, Ooo, Feengafee, Aingatooeea, An, any, Hengatoo, Falla, Mahagee, APPENDIX, No. III. Akkaree, NaFa, Toa, Etanno, Afai, Otoogoo, Muree, or mareeai, Fafa, Mamao, Englifti. Land, or properly (he Jbore. A burying -place. Admiration, J fan. Let it alone. Great. Good. A crayffh. A black and white mat. Stained red rufhes,"Jobicb they wear round the waijl. A little while ago. Glazed clotb which tbey wear. A thick Jlrong mat. A fort of ulcer., that leaves large laced fears. A fiool to lay the head on when afleep. A large cylindrical piece of wood, hollowed with a flit, which ferves as a drum. Afpear. To bury under ground. When. Finifhed. Well done •, an acclama- tion. To carry one on the back. A great way ; diflant. Friendly IJles. Meedjc, meedje, Engliih." To drink out of a ear coa-nut. The face. Excrement. A fort of pepper -tree, the juice of which is very acrid. A fine white fort of mat. A ho ufe to flee p in. Afquare bonnet. To give a thing gratis, or for friendjjip's fake. Tooa, or Tooaeea, A fervant, or perfon of inferior rank. Fukkatooa, A challenging motion, made by flriking the hand on the bend of the op[.cfite arm. Kaeehya,cykaeehaa, A thief . Matta, Ty, or Etae, Faitanoo, Nafee, nafec, Abee, Touaa, Fukke, fety, Fooloo, Moojcekakka, Mahanga, Maecle, Fofolla, Kotjee, Taboone, Too, Ava, A quill. A bajket made of cocoa- nut core, and white beads. A brother. An odoriferous Jbrub, planted near the Fya- tooka. To unfold a piece of cloth. None. To elofe, or flr.it ; a partition or jki ten. To draw back a cur- tail:, orjkrun. A window, hole. Fonooa, APPENDIX, No. III. 537 Friendly IJles. Fonooa, foohoo, Taboo, Goomoo, goomoo, Laiva, Bagooce, Bedjeeloa, Fae, Makka fa too, Gailee, gailee, Maa, Ma, tagge tagge, Konna, Fekaee, or fmatte, fekaee Matte, fee aeenoo, Aieenoo, Awhainne, Monoo, Mattahoa, Toooa, Fooa, repeated, Boola, Anoo, anoo, Anga, Haile, Ha;lr, fofoo, Adoo, Geehea, Tohagge, Namoogoo, Namoo, kakulla, Boobooa, tahee, Meeme, Vol. III. Englifti. A land of warriors. Not to touch a thing. A /peeks of lichen, that . grozvs plentifully on fame trees. For good and all ; cer- tainly. A prickly fiar fifh. A crab, with black claws. A fifter. Coral rock. Dirt. Clean. Let me look at it. Poifon. Hunger. Tbirft. To drink. Near at hand. An expreffwn of thanks. Very good. Both ; we ; both of us. J great number. Small white fhells. To fwim. A man. A knife. A knife thalfhuts. Give it j to g:ve. Which, or what. Let me lock at, or fee it. Aftink, or bad fuel!. A fweet jmell. Salt. Urine. Friendly Ifles. Owo, owo, owo. Fohee, Ajeeneu, Tangee, fe toogee, Mamaha, Oohee, Mawhaha, Baa, Boogo, Taifo, Amou, Faigeeaika, Kakou, Shainga (in the lan- guage of Feejee), Fangoo, Oore, oore, Looloo, Murroo, Faifaika, Feengotta, Wouainre, Mahagge, fatoo, Goee enee, Fukka, ma fooa, Fatooree, A faa, 3Z Englifh. No, no, no. To peel a plantain. A vejfel to put drink in. Striking the chce\s on the death of their relations. Coral rock under water. A fpecies of diofma. An excellent root like a potatoe. A crackling noife ; to crack, or fnap. The largeft fort of tree in the iflands. A mullet. Whole; found-, true; valid, lambos. A fJooal, or reef, on which thefea breaks. No ; there is none. A fmall calibaflo fhell. Black. An o-jjI. Soft. Hard. A fort of fhell. I am here ; i. e. when called upon. A drcpfy. Near at hand. An s.rbov.r in which they catch pigeons, &c. Thunder. A form; lightning. Toufarre,1 JSS. APPENDIX, No. III. Friendly Iftes. Toufarre, Tongo,. Ooha, Tooboo, Tawagge, totto, Kadjee, Fann3, fanna, Mooonga, Xeeneeo, Laoo allee, Ogookaee, Laia, or koelaia, Kaho, Aieeboo, Tooee, Feila, Eevee, aai, Feilaa too, F.ngago, Kanno, matte, Kofooa, Kollofeea, Moggocheea, llooa, Ongonna, Englifh. A befom. A wood, of which bows are made. Rain. To grew. The red- tailed tropic bird. There is no more-, or none. To wajh the hands be- fore weals. Mountains; a mountain. Low land. A great many ; an end- lefs number. No ; there is none. Speech ; words. An arrow. A veffel, or difh. A club. To pull a rope. A cheer, inputting arcpe. A word given by one, on pulling a rope, and the reft repeat Woa, as a refponfe. Fat, or lard of a hog. The lean part of meat. A kidney. The name of the volcano on Tofooa. Cold. The going about, or ing of a flip. To under/land: Friendly Mis. Englifh. Kaee ongonna, 1 do not underflandyou; Mafanna, Warm. Anapo, Lajl night. Fakkahooa, The Southerly wind; or a foul wind. Looloo, To roll, as afl.ip. Matangee, The wind. Matangeeanga, or , matangee leeoo, ] The Eaft and North wind, or a fair wind. Amooee, or tamoo - ree, From behind. Amooa, or tamooa, From befotr. Ahaa, or koehaa, For what reafen ? Mohe far, Where f hall lfleep ? Koo mafoore, To lie along, or yield, as afl.ip clofe battled! Palla, Rotten. Elooa A hole. Molle, wmolle mo! - le, Smooth. Keeai, A plant they make mats of; the cultivated' Pandanus. Tongo laiee, Mangrove. Reemoo, Seaweed. Fety, A term of frlcndfhip. Jeejee, Efculent dracen.i. Taboo Laia, Do/ft fpea';; he'd your tongue. Toonoa, Dreffed, cooked. Tohke, A meafure. Toohagge, Let me fee it. Taheine, A young girl ; a daugh- ter. HainCp. APPENDIX, No. III. S39 Friendly IJles. Englim. Friendly IJles. Englim. Haine, Here. Fatjee, To break. Baiahou, Swell of the fa. Fohenna, A fon ; a brother. Maea, A rope. Matee, A fig-tree. Otta, Raw; as raw meat. Lohee, A lie. Moho, Meat xv ell dreffed. Ma to, Steep ; high. Maoo lillo, Low land. Patco, Aftroke; tojlrike. Moanna, Deep water ; fea. Hooho, The brcafts. Kae hai.i, Which is it you want ? Momoggo, Cold. Vava tahee, Red coral. Saiouhai, Admiral ion. Feefy, Afpecies of mitnofa. Nod, Mine ; cf n e. Fa too, The belly. Valla, A piece of Cloth worn Mee mee, To fuck bones. round the waift. Meedje meedje, To Juck as a child. Doooyoo, a ma- ■ j A fong in favour of a j viSor. Ooree, A rudder. too, eeoee, Tainga, A feed of a plant. Mulloo, Serene \ fettled '-, fmooth. Oolcl tefie, Incifions in the fore- Vaitte, To untie a thing. Jkin, which contrail- Mcheefo, e doxvn below. ing prevent its cover- Fetagcej malowhee, To figbt. ing the glans. Tao, A fear. Vefoo, To hide a thing. Eene A metal button, or ear- 5 ring. Kleeteenek, The little cloak that they quoe, wear. Wae, (Calling to one, per- Kleethak, A bear's fkin. haps) you ! Klochimme, Mufcles. Weekeetateefh, Sparkling /and, which Ohkullik, A wooden box they hold tley fprinkle on their things in. faces. H'flaiakafl, cr flai Chauk, Water. kalizth, Coarfe mats of bark. Pacheetl, cr pachat , To give ; give me. Eefee, An infrument of hone to Hawerlilh, cr ha- beat bark^ wahh, Friendjl ip, friend. Chapitz koole, The model of a canoe* Kleefeetl, To paint, or mark with Klapatuketeel, A bag made of mat. a pencil. Tali mi?, To fpit -, fpittle. Abeetfzle, To go away, or depart. Wafuklheet, To cough. Sheefookto, To remain or abide. Poop, Common mofs. Sceaik, Ajlone weapon, with a Okumha, * The wind. fquare point. Chutzquabeelfl, A bag madeof fealfk'n.. Suhyaik, A fpear, poin:cd with Konneeemis, A kind offea weed. bone. Qiiaook], or took- Taak, The wood of the de- peetl, To ft dawn. pending pine. Klu!ieefzthl,(?rqiio Lukflieet, or luk- eelfzthl, To rife up. flieetl, To drink. Tfookeeacs, To walk. Soocliis, A tree, a wood. Kummutchchutl, To run. . Hateeaipe, A broad leaf, firub, or Klutfklaee, To frike, cr beet* underwood. Teefhcheetl, To throw ajlone. Tee !fz these,. 544 APPENDIX, No. IV. Ncotka, Teelfzthtee, Tfook, Mahkatte, Eumahtame, Cheemaine, Mooftatte, Kahlheetl, Kleeflifheetl, Tfeehatte, Katthak, Hefhcheene, Koohminne, Akeeuk, Kaheica, Cheetakulheiwha, Mittemulfzfth, Iaiopox, Neefkfheet!, Suciikas, Seehl, EngHfri. To rub, or fljarpen metal. To cleave, or Jlrike hard. A fmall liliaceous root which they eat. Fur of a fea ctter. Their largejl fiflring hooks. A bow. Dead. Tofljoot with a bow. An arrow. A flaxen garment, worn as their common drefs. A plain Venus Jhell. A bag rattle. A plain bone point for flrikingfeals with. A barbed bone point for ditto. Bracelets of white bugle beads. 1h ngs of Jkin worn about the wrijl and neck. Pieces of copper worn in the ear. To fneeze. A comb. Small feathers which they ftrew on their heads. Nootka. Wamuhte, Kutfeeoataia, Tookquuk, Mufzchfle, Waeetch, Sikfaimaha, Tuhfheetl, Matfkoot, Matook, Englifh. Twifled thongs and fi- news, worn about their ankles. Veins under the Jkin. The /kin. Pain. To fleep. To breathe, or pant. ToUveep. A fly. ' To fly. Kooees, or quoees, Snow, or hail. Aopk, Afheeaikfheetl, Elfthltleek, Cheeecakis, Tchoo, To whiflle. To yawn. An inflrument of two flicks ftanding from each other, with barbs. A fear of a wound. Throw it down, or to ■ me. Cheetkoohekai, or \ A wooden inflrument Cheetkoaik, * with many bone teeth, to catch fmall fljh with. 1 Kaenne, cr Koenai, A crow, a bird. Kcciapa, A fiflj ; a white bream. Klaamoo, A bream flriped with blue and gold co- lours. Taawecfli, or Tfuf- > A Jlone weapon, or keeah, / tenia. auk, with a wooden handle. Kamuifthlik, Nootka. Kamaiflhlik, APPENDIX, No. IV. Englifli. • 545 Klahma, Seetfaennuk, A kind of fnare, to catch fifio or other animals with, Wing feathers of a red bird. Anger -, folding. lleeeai, or Heeeee, A brown freaked fnake. Klapiffime, A racoon. Owatinne, A white-headed eagle. Kluhmifs, . Train oil; a bladder filled with it. Oukkooma, Large carved wooden faces. Kotyook, crhotyok, A knife. See eema, A fifinng net. Weena, A fir anger. Quahmifs, Fifih roe frewed upon pine branches and fca weed. Kaatl, Give me. Hookfquaboolfthl, A whale harpoon and rope. Komook, Chimera monfrofa. Quotluk, or quot- lukac, Afea otter's fkin. Maafenulfthl, An oblong wooden wea- pon, two feet long. A wooden mafk of the human face. A feal fkin. Let me fee it. A kind of haddock, of a reddifli brown co- lour. Hokooma, Tooquacumilfthl Cha, Sooma, Nootka. Englifh. Aeea, A fardine. Koeetfak, A wolf-fkin drefs. Keepfleetokfzl, A woollen garment. Iffetf, Pine bark. Wanfhee, Wild cat fkin (lynx brunneus). Chaftimmetz, A common, and alfo pine martin. Ookoomillfzthl, A little, round, wooden cup. Kooomitz, A human fkull. Keehlwahmoot, A fkin bladder ufed in fifhing. Tfeeapoox, A conic cap made of mat, worn on the head. Summeto, A fquirrel ; they alfo called a rat by this name. Maalfzthl, A deer's horn. Jakops, Avian, or male. Vol. III. Kolfheetl, or Kol- fh e a t, To fup with afpoon. .Achatla, or Achak- tak, What is your name ? Achatlaha, What is his name ? Akasfheha, or akafiche, Haifmuflik, Maeetfalulfthl, Kookelixo, Natcha, What is the name of that ? A wooden fabre. A bone weapon, like the Patoo. Afifjfin ; the hand. Afif}} tail. 4A Klihkleek, 546 Nootka. Klihkleek, Klaklafm, Ko, Nahci, or naheis, Teelfthoop, Pachas, Quaeeaitfaak, Atchakoe, Aheita, Kifhkilltup, Akhmupt, Klaiwahmifs, Mollfthapait, Taeetcha, Kaaitzr TahooquoflT.m, Moowatche, Mamar, Klaokotl, Pallfzthpatl, APPEND Englim. The hoof of an animal A bracelet. An article, to give Jlrength of exprejfwn to another word. Friendjhip. A large cuttle fifh. He gave it me. A yellow, or red fox. A limpet. A fweet fern root they eat. The flrawberry plant. A narrow grafs that grows on the rocks. A cloud. A feather. Vull,fatisfied with sat- ing. A necklace of fmall vo- lute fhells. A carved human head of wood, decorated with hair. A carved wooden vizor, like the head of a Quebrentahueffos. A black linnet, with a white bill. Give me fomething. Glimmer (//.>eel). I X, No. IV. Nootka. Englilh. Eineetl, The name they apply to a goat -, probably of a deer. Secta, The tail of an animaU Seehfheetl, To kill. Ooolfzth, A fand piper. Sacemitz, Chequered fir awbajkets. Chookwak, To go up, or away* Kloofafht, Smoked herrings. Keetfma, Puncluration. Mikeellzyth, To f aft en, or tie a thing. Cheeteeakamilzfth, White leads. Kakkumipt, A fea weed, or grafs, on which they Jlrew fifh roe. Eifluk, Afcrt of leek; allium triquetrum. To tear a thing. A knot. To tie a knot. To loofen, or untie. The leaf of a plant. Kutfkumilzrih, MitzQeo, Mamakeeo, KlukGlzfth, Klakaikom, Safinne, or fafin, Koohquoppa, Seewcebt, Kaweebt, Kleehfeep, Klumma, Aiahtoop, or aiah- toopfh, A humming bird. A granulated lily root they eat. Alder tree. Rafberry bufli. Thefloucr of a plant. Large wooden images placed at one end of their houfcs. A porpoife. Tofhko. APPENDIX, No. IV. 547 Nootka. Tofhko, Afzlimupt, or ulfz- thimipt, Wakafh, Kullekeea, Kaots, SUook, Eilfzthmtikt, Koeeklafs, Matlieu, Nahafs, Ncetfoanimme, Chaipma, Haquanuk, Chahkocs, Chahquanna, Klennut, . Kolkolfainum, Klieutfunnim, Tfcelfzthook, Englifli. A ftnall brown fpotted cod. 1 Flaxen fluff, of which * they make their gar- ments. An exprcffion tf appro- bation, or friendjhip. Troughs out of which they eat. A twig bafhet. The roof of a houfe ; boards. Nettles. A wooden flage, or frame, on which the fifh roe is dried. A withe of bark for faflening planks, A circular hole that ferves as a window. Large planks, of which their houfes are built. Straw. A chejt, or large box. Afquare wooden bucket, to hold water. Afquare wooden drink- ing cup. A wooden wedge. A large che/l. A board to kneel on when they paddle. A frame of fquare poles. Nootka, Aminulfzth, Natchkoa and Matfeeta, Houa, Achichil, Aeek, Aptfheetl, Quoeeup, Uhfhfapai, Tfcehka, Apte, or appe, Kai, Kotl, Punihpunih, Nootka, Yatfeenequoppe, Kakallakeehee- look, I1 Nololokum, Satfuhcheek, Englifa. Afifi. The particular names of two of the monflrous images calledKlumma. To go that way. What does he fay ? The oval part of a whale dart. To Jleal. To break. To pull. A general fong. Tou. Thanks. Me% I. A black beating ft one. The name of the bay or found. The names of three men. The name of a woman. Names of different Parts of the Body. Oooomitz, Apfoop, Uhpeukel, or up- uppej, Cheecheecfhj Choop, The head. The hair of the head. The forehead. The teeth. The tongue. 4 A 2 Kuflce, 548 APPENDIX, No .IV. Nootka". Englilh; Nootka. Englifh. Kuflee, or kafiee, The eye. Aapfo, The arm. Neets, The nofe. Aaplbonilk, The arm-pit. Papai, The ear. Eneema, The nipple. Aamifs, The cheek. Kooquainux, or Eehthlux, The chin. Kooquainuxoo, The fingers. Apuxim, The beard. Chufhchuh, Nail of the finger. Tfeekoomitz, The neck. Kleafhklinne, The thighs and leg. Seekutz, The throat. Klahtimme, The foot. Eflulfzth, The face. Aiahkomeetz, The thumb. Eethluxooth, The lips. • Kopeeak, The fore finger. Kloofhkooah, klah > Taeeai, The middle finger. tamai, The noftrils. Oatfo, or akhukluc , The ring finger. Aeetchfe, The eye-brow. Kafleka, The little finger. [ 549 ] APPENDIX, No. V. VOCABULARY of the LANGUAGE of ATOOI, one of the SANDWICH ISLANDS, January, 1778. Atooi. Englifli. Atooi. Englifli. Tehaia, Where. Areea, Wait a little. Mahata, Ditto. Myao, Finger and toe nails. Aorre, or Aoe, No. Eeno, Bad. He oho, The hair. Hoocee, hootee, To pluck up, or out. E poo, The head. Tooanna, A brother. Papaiee aoo, The ear. Teina, A younger brother. Heraee, The forehead. Otooma heeva, A man's name. Matta, The eye. s Nanna, Let me fee it. To/it. Pappareenga, Haieea, The cheek. Fijh. Noho Eeeheu, The nofe. Hoe, To go. Oome oome, The beard. Hooarra, Sweet potatoes. Haire, To go. E Taeeai, Calling to one. Erawha, Tears of joy. Waheine, A woman. Aee, The neck. Teeorre, To throw away a thing. Poheeve, The arm. He, aieeree, Thefkin. Ooma ooma, The breafi. Ma, ty ty, To look at, or furvey a Heoo, The nipple. thing. Peeio, The navel. Tommomy, Come here. Hoohaa, The thigh. Erooi, To retch, to puke. He, wawy, The leg. Too, Sugar cane. Eroui, Wait a little. Maa mona, Sweet or favoury food. 5 Tooharrej 5J° Jtooi. Tooharre, Matou, My, ty Otaeaio, Tcruroioa, Oome, Poe, . Oohe, Booa, Eeneeoo, Ono, Ectce, Otae, Maonna, APPENDIX, No. V. } Owytooehainoa, Tanata, Tangata, Pahoo, Ehoora, Maro, Hoemy •, harremy, Eroemy, Taooa, Toura, Ooroo, Iitte, Appe, Matte, Aoonai, Paha,, Englilh. To /pit. 1, ftrft perfon lingular. Good. Names of two chiefs. A great number. Taro pudding. Tarns. A bog. Cocoa nuts. To under/land. To under/land, or know. A man's name. Full, fatisfied with eat- ing. What is your name ? A man. Ditto. A drum. A Und of dance. A narrow firipe of cloth they wear. To come. Fetch it here. We, firft perfon plural. A rope. Bread fruit. Dracena. Virginian Arum. Dead. In a fhort time ; pre- fenlly. Perhaps. Atooi. Ai, Ateera, Hevaite, Noona, Tapaia, Poore, Tahouna, A tee, Meeme, Ehaia, Poota, Mao, Mareira, Eeo, Evaa, Touroonoa, My ty, Aieeboo, Ahewaite, Opoore, Taee, Evy, Aiva, Eerotto, Owyte eree, Toneoneo, Motoo, Toe, Vaheeo, llaieehe, Hooroo manoo, Englifh. Tes. Done ; at an end. To unfold. Above. To abide; to keep cr re/train from going. A prayer. A priefi. To fetch, or bring. To make water. Where. A hole. That way. This place. There. A canoe. A tnan's name. Let me look. A vejfel of gourd Jbell. Mullus cretaceus. Sparus parvus puncla- tus. The fea. Frefb water. A harbour. Within , into. What is the chief's name ? A chief's name. To tear, or break. A ft one adze. Let it lie, or remain. A barbed dart. Birds feathers. Motoo, APPENDIX. No. V. SS i Atooi, Englifb. Atooi. Englifh. Motoo, An ijland. Parra, Ripe; as, ripe fruit. Hamoea, A ceremony of clapping Toe, toe, Cold. the hands to the head. Matanee, The wind. and proftrating them- Etoo, To rife up. /elves to the chief. Hairetoo, To go there. To give. Worero, Loft ; Jlole. Hoatoo, Aeenoo, To drink. o Eeapo, Night. Tehaia, orooa, Where are you ? Eahoiahoi, Evening. Ou, i, firftperfon fingular. Oora, Red feathers. Eunai, Here ; at this place. Hunger ; hungry. Pororee, Teehe, A prefent of cloth. Hereema, A fpecies of Sida. Herairemy, A place on which fruit Meere, meere, To look at., or beheld. is laid as an offering Moa, A fowl. to God. Manoo, A bird. 'Henananoo, A fquare pile of wicker Dirro, Below. work, or religious Modooa, tanne, Father. obelijk. Modooa, waheine , Mother. Hereeere, A burying.gr ound. Naiwe, nawie, Pleafant ; agreeable. Eteepappa, The inftde of a burying- Hai, raa, The fun. ground. Hairanee, The/ky. Ha ne, A koufe. Abobo, To-morrow. Harre pahoo A drum-houfe in a bu- Heaho, A [mall rope. rying-ground. Tereira, There ; that way. Heneene, A wall, the wall of a Pymy, Throw it here. burying-grcund. Ewououtte, Morus Papyrif. To JJeep. Moe, Heho, A ft one fet up in a bu- Nooe, Large. rying-grcund confe- Poowha, o To yawn. crated to the Deity. Ahaia, When ; at what time. Eatooa, A god. Wehai* To uncover and undo a Tangaroa, The name of the god of thing. the place we were at. Tooto, A fmall flraw rope. None, Morinda citrifolia. Eaha, nai, What is this? Hereanee, Small twig things in e Maeea, Plantains. burying -ground. He 55- .APPENDIX, No.V. Atooi. Hcmanaa, Herooanoo, Tooraipe, Eahoi, Pohootoo noa, Poota paire, Eonnotaine, Ottahoinoo, Epappa, Oneete, Heorro taire, Taa, Epoo, Eou, Tcarre, Heoudoo, Eeorre, Ehooo, Epaoc, or ooapa, Matou, Englifh. A houfe, or hut, where they bury their dead. Wooden images in a bu- ry ing-houfe. A kind of head- drefs, or helmet on an image. Hire. A cream-coloured whet- Jlone. A dijlricl at the Weft em part of the ifle. A jhort cloak of black and white feathers. One article, or thing. A board ufed to fivim upon. A kind of cloth. A fmall fcarlet bird, or merops fcarlatind. An interjection of ad- miration. A bracelet of a Jingle fhell. To fivim. Gardenia, or Cape Jaf- mine. A refufal ; I will not do it, or take that for this. A rat. A gimblet, or any in- ftrument to bore with. There is no more ; it is done, or fin .J. A particular fort of fifh-hook. Alooi. Erahoi, dehoi, Englifli. Thin ; as, thin cloth, board, &c. Pattahaee,c/-heroui, A fort of ' mufical inflru- ment or rattle, orna- mented with red fea- thers. A plume of feathers they wear. The Cordia febeflina. To break. Yes-, it is fo. Afong. A wooden bowl. A fhallow wooden difij they drink ava out of. A particular fort of cloth. Ootee,erotee, oree, To cut. Pappaneeheomano, A wooden inflrument befct with Jliarks teeth, ufed to cut up thofe they kill. Maheine, A wife. Homy, Give me. Moena, or moenga, A mat to ficep en. Eappanai, Etooo, Whatte, Oeea, Heoreeoree, Paraoo, Apooava, Etoohe, toohee, Eeno, An adjunct, when they exprefs any thing good, though by it- fclf, it Jignifies bad. Ihus they fay, Era- Yiha.ecno,gocd greet- ing, as the Ot, leans fry, Ehoaeeno, or my good friend. Taboo, APPENDIX, No. V. SS! dtoo't. Taboo, or tafoo, Maooa, He no, Patae, .Aheia, Teanoo, Tammata, Ootoo, Ehone, My, Oura, or ouraa Mango, Te and he, Vol. Ill, Englift. Any thing not to be touched, as leing for- bid. This is an example that Jhows the tran/mutaiion of the H, F, and B. into each other. Thus at Otaheite yams are oohe, at Tonga oofe, at New Caledonia oobe, and here taboo is tafoo. /, firft perfon fingular. Little rods, about five feet long, with a tuft of hair on the /mall end. Salt. A round pearl fhell. The cold arifing from being in the water. The fenfe of 'tap. A loufe. To falute by applying one nooe to the other. Ehogge at New Zealand, and Ehoe at Otaheite. Afore of any kind. Cured; recovered; alive; well. AJhark. The, Atooi. Heneeoohe, Eea, Paoo roa, Ee, Taira, Ahoo aura, Henaro, Ehateinoa Heweereweere, Mawaihe, Eheou, Hetoa, Ooamou, Ho no, Matou, Pooa, Tecto, Epaee, Ohe, Henaroo, Mo too, Ehctoo, Marama, Ouameeta, Englifh. An inflrument made of a /bark's tooth fxed on a wooden handle, to cut with. An adjuncl, as at Ota- heite, to give fir ength to an expreffton. gvite done ; fini/hed. At. Ihat ; the other. Red cloth. Afly. What is the name of that ? An outrigger of a cance. The fail of a canoe. The mafl of a cance. The yard of a fail. Fafl ; fecure ; found ; whole. To go ; to move. Fear. An arrow. A bow. Wooden bowls made from the Etooo. Bamboo. Tbefwellofthefca. Land, Afiar. The moon. A man's nam*. Numerals to Ten, as at Ocaheir? 4B t 554 ] APPENDIX, No. VI. TABLE to fhew the Affinity between the Languages fpoken at Oonalashka and Norton Sound, and thofe of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux. Englifh. Ooonalajhka. Norton Sound. A man, Chengjn - A woman, Anagogenach The head, Kameak - The hair, Emelach - Nooit The eye- brow, Kamlik Kameluk The eye, Dhac Enga The nofe, Anofche - No ha The cheek, Ooloocrik Oollooak The ear, Tootoofh - Sliudcka The lip, Adhce Hafhlaw The teeth, Agaloo The tongue, Agonoc The beard, Kngelagoong Oongai The chin, Ifmaloch - Tamluk The neck, Ouioc - The breafi. Shimfcn - The arm, Toolak Dalk-k The hand, KedhachoongeAifhec The finger, Atooch The nails, Cagrlch - Shetooe The thigh, Cachcmac - Kookdolhic The leg, Ketac Kanuiak The foot, Ooleac 4 Etfcheak Greenland. From Crantz. Angut Efquimaux. Ne-aw-cock Nrw-rock Coup-loot Ehich Cring-yauk Ou-lu-uck-cur Se-u-tcck Taplou Coon-e-fokc Suck ke-uck Telluck Alguit Ki-naw-auk E-te-ket The APPENDIX, No. VI. 5.S5 Englilh. OonalaJJjka, , Norton Sound. ureeniana. From Crantz Efquimaux. The fun, Agadac - Maje - Suck-ki-nuch The moon, Toogedha - . - Tac-cock The Jky, Enacac A cloud, Aiengich The wind, Caitchee The fea, Alaooch - Emai - . Ut-koo-tuk-lea Water, Tangch - Mooe Fire, Keiganach - - - E-ko-ma Wood, - Hearach A knife, Kamelac A boife, Oolac - Iglo - Tope-uck A canoe, Eakeac Caiac - - Kaiak Kirock A paddle, Chafec Pangehon - Pautik Pow Iron, Comeleuch Shavvik - - Shaveck A bow, Seiech - . _ Petick fie Arrows, Agadhok - - - Caukjuck Darts, Ogwalook - - Aglikak A fjh-hook, Oochtac No, Net Ena Nag Tes, or yea, Ah Eh - - Illifve One, Taradac - Adowjak - Attoufek - Attouiet Tivo, . - Alac Aiba Arlak - Mardluk Three, Canoogn - Pingafhook - Pingajuah - Pingafut Four, Sechn Shetamik - Siflamat - Si flam at Five, Chang Dallamik - Tellimat - Tellimat Six, Atoo In counting more Arbanget Seven, Ooloo - than five, they f Arbanget repeat the fame / Attaufek Eight, Kamching ■ words over again. Arbanget mardlik Nine, Seching - - • ■- Kollin illoet Ten, Hafc . . - Kollic. 4 B 2 [ 555 ] APPENDIX, No. VII. A TABLE of the Variations of the Compass, obferved by Captain Cook during his paffage from England to the Cape of Good Hope. See Vol. I. p. 49. 1776. Latitude. Longitude. Variation. Time. 0 July 14 0 0 50 8 N. °4 40 w. 2°o iSf W. Evening. u 18 48 44 5 2° 23 °l Ditto. I 22 48 35 5 36 25 4 Morning. 44 17 8 18 22 42 Ditto. * 23 43 55 8 28 22 26 Evening. V 24 43 46 8 33 23 «4i ' Ditto. % 25 42 53 9 34 23 144- Ditto. i 26 40 38 10 7 22 56 Ditto. 7> 29 33 51 14 32 18 31 Morning. S 30 33 4 14 53 J9 3f Evening. 32 4 '5 4 18 24 Morning. V i 31 10 15 27 1 8 18* Evening. At anchor in the K oad of St.Cri z in Teneriffe. 14 4It 1 Augult 7 H 54 18 36 i5 1 Ditto. ? 9 20 29 19 56 14 io'r Ditto. 19 41 20 29 '3 23v Morning. D 12 '5 34 23 10 9 4& Ditto. ? 1*4 »3 49 23 23 9 28 Ditto. % ii J2 21 23 34 9 4« Ditto. ? 16 'I 5» 24 2 8 9- Ditto. J> 19 9 47 22 52 9 *T Evening. » 55 22 39 9 25r Morning. % 22 6 33 20 51 10 16;- Ditto. * 23 6 29 21 2 11 13 Evening. 6 9 20 59 10 19 Morning. 2 26 4 23 21 12 9 5 Ditto. APPENDIX, No. VII. 557 1776. Latitude. Longitude. Variation. Time. 3 Auguft 27 3 59 N. 0 , 11 40 w. 8 35 W. Evening. 3 45 22 IO 8 37 Morning. 2 28 3 37 22 23 8 36J Evening, By an amplitude. 7 581 Ditto. ? 30 2 40 23 27 7 49 6 49 Ditto. Morning. 2 20 24 35 h 3' 2 5 25 12 6 331 Evening. 1 14 26 12 5 34? MorniDg. O September 1 0 51 27 52 5 15* Evening. 0 7 N. 27 23 4 424- Morning. » 2 1 13 S. 28 30 3 26^ Ditto. $ 3 1 50 28 49 3 3"* Evening. 2 48 29 18 3 20 Morning. 5 4 3 37 29 24 2 55* Evening. 4 20 30 ]2 2 37 Morning. % 5 5 0 3° 51 2 2j Evening. 5 34 31 49 I 21^ Morning. ? 6 6 0 32 >5 0 2I|W. Evening. 6 45 33 11 0 33t E- Morning. h 7 7 18 33 3° 0 3fW. Evening. 7 5o 33 48 0 11 W. Morning. O 8 8 43 3+ ]4 O I2|W. Ditto. D 9 9 l 34 H 0 i8| E. Evening. 9 35 3+ 29 0 6| E. Morning. & 10 10 4 34 19 0 40 W. Evening. 1 1 1 34 19 0 6* E. Morning. O 5 11 12 40 34 19 0 414. E. Ditto. % 12 13 23 34 18 0 404- E. Evening. 14 11 34 2 0 i6-£ E. Morning. ? IS 14 47 34 4 1 8 E. Evening amplitude. '5 33 34 16 1 20 E. Morning. T? »4 16 12 34 20 1 234- E. Evening. 16 58 34 55 2 30 | E. Morning. O IJ 17 40 35 « 2 11 E. Evening. 18 30 35 26 2 16-J- Morning. 5 l6 20 8 35 49 1 4 M Ditto. S »7 20 46 35 5<> | 2 43t Evening. 21 37 35 42 ; 2 44! Morning. S 18 22 17 35 4i 2 331 Evening. ? 20 2 5 54 34 37 3 3*2 Ditto. 26 47 , 33 55 3 »«i Morning. T? 21 27 14 33 26 3 5* Evening. 27 44 32 35 ' 1 2 234. Morning. O 22 28 19 3' 5i 2 ii Ditto. ss* APPENDIX, No. VII. 1776. Latitude. I.cngitudc. Variation. Time. j September 23 28 36 S. 3°i 5 W. 0 / 2 3.4E. Evening. 2Q 12 29 59 1 ic4 Morning. «f »4 29 29 29 2 1 1 30 Evening. 3° 4 28 8 0 31 Morning. S *5 30 25 27 30 0 504- E. Evening. O 29 33 4? 16 50 3 46 W. Morning. j> 30 33 48 16 7 4 454- Evening. 33 56 15 28 4 454- Morning. 2 Ottober 2 34 *6 12 0 7 1 Evening. 34 16 10 2 7 I3t Morning. ? 4 34 45 8 58 6 32 Evening. Amp litude. 7 52 Ditto. 35 37 9 4 6 9i Morning. 6 5 35 35* 9 12 6 504. Evening. 35 49 8 49 7 4°t Morning. * 8 35 *9 7 45 8 47 Evening. 0 Amp litude. 6 59i Ditto. 35 3° 7 35 9 12 Morning. 5 9 35 '7 7 5 8 45t 6 59t Evening. Ditto. i{ 10 35 39 3 47 W. 11 56 Morning. * '5 34 57 8 40 E. 19 26y Evening. At the Cap e of Good I- lope, 21 584- . 22 I4t On board. On (hore. THE END. This Day are publijhedy I. An Account of the VOYAGES undertaken by the Order of his prefent Majesty, for making DISCOVERIES in the NORTHERN HEMISPHERE. And fucceflively performed by Commodore Byron, Captain Wallis, Captain Carteret, and Captain Cook. in the Dolphin, the Swallow, and the Endeavour. Drawn up from the Journals which were kept by the feveral Commanders, and from the Papers of Joseph Banks, Efq. By JOHN HAWKESWORTH, LL. D. IN THREE VOLUMES. Ill uflrated with CUTS, and a great Variety of CHARTS and MAPS relative to Countries now firft difcovered, or hitherto but imperfectly known. II. A VOYAGE towards the SOUTH POLE, and round the WORLD. Performed in his Majefty's Ships the RESOLUTION and ADVENTURE, In the Years 1772, 1773, I774> and 1775- Written by Captain JAMES COOK, Commander of the Resolution In which is included Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings in the Adventure during the Separation of the Ships. IN TWO VOLUMES. Illuflrated with Maps and Charts, and a Variety of Portraits of Perfons, and Views of Places, drawn during the Voyage by Mr. Hodces, and engraved by the moll eminent Mailers. •a Complete Sets may be had in Eight Volumes Quarto. '* ^ i 1 i\