AT” ye fe np ; AR Des TN vi NS * Rio 8 Francisco Tuas under GOUT ::Xeras inriáns B.d Notre Dame y e about th was losh | Gausp ; de los Camerones ny pau Pink of § a squad) tAnchord HS: Barbaraf) oe \ | SOUTH AMERICA > aii From He — 5 / daras j \ d Madre Dots . \ 57) nh Lae ¢.Viceor pw Typ \ Best» ELE Cd SS ae (Ge = Longitude West 90), trom London. a * LVL Lo tice the Title Vol. NA ris B Sy Feregippe VOYAGE: SOUTH. AMERICA: DESCRIBING AT LARGE THE SPANISH CITIES, TOWNS, PROVINCES, &c. ON THAT EXTENSIVE CONTINENT: UNDERTAKEN, BY COMMAND OF THE KING OF SPAIN, “ BY DON GEORGE JUAN, DON ANTONIO DE ULLOA, CAPTAINS OF THE SPANISH NAVY, FELLOWS OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT PARIS, &c. &c, TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL SPANISH ; WITH , OT ES AND OBSERVATIONS; ayp AN ACCOUNT OF THE BRAZILS, “By JOHN ADAMS, Esq. or WattHam ABBEY; Who resided several Years in those Parts. a THE FOURTH EDITION. ILLUSTRATED WITH PLATES, A ———_————Á VOL. I. » re AAA fs | LONDON: PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY; R. FAULDER, BOND- STREET; LONGMAN AND CO. PATER-NOSTER ROW; LACKINGTON AND CO, FINSBURY SQUARE; AND J. HARDING, ST, JAMES’ S STREET. tate ancien 1806, Y WEE? wo’ POD ADE Bor ic 8 igs ne +0 Li TO a SIR HOME POPHAM, Kyr. $0. Fe. Fe. SIR; WITH a Pride which, I venture ‘to assert, I feel, only in common with every other British Subject, I take the liberty to dedicate to you this Republication. Ir contains, with other interesting matter, a slight sketch of Buenos-Ayres ; that Territory which now is, and will most probably remain, from your Foresight, Ability, and personal Bra- very, one of the richest Jewels in the United Crown. I am proud, Sir, in thus publicly offering my feeble tribute to your extraordinary Me- rits, to assure you of the respectful Esteem, high Regard, and sincere Friendship, with which I have the honour to subscribe myself Your ever obliged, Obedient and humble Servant, JOHN STOCKDALE. London, Sept. 26, 1806. hat lo: devs re de Ge te born oe PP ay Et alu «Dg yt ag + le ¥ Ja A + y Ú + ' A k doi e e qu OA ss pi ax eh a | PREFACE. I; is certainly a very true, as well as trite obser- vation, that knowledge is the food of the mind; and if this be so, then certainly that ought to have the preference, which is at once equally nutritive and pleasant. On this account, booksof voyages and tra- vels have been in such general esteem, and at the same time have been commended by persons of the greatest sagacity, and in the highest reputation for superior understanding. The pleasantness of this kind of reading has attracted many, who had before no relish for learning, and brought them by degrees to enter upon severer enquiries, in order more effectually to gratify that curiosity which this kind of study na- turally excites. Men of higher abilities have turned their thoughts on this subject, from the consideration of its real utility. This induced the ingenious Hakluyt to make that noble collection, which procured him the patronage of queen Elizabeth’s ablest minister. This led the elder Thevenot, to enrich the French language with a very copious collection of the same kind. And, not to multiply examples, this made voyages and tra- vels the favourite study of the judicious Locke, who looked upon it as the best method of acquiring those useful and practical lights, that serve most effectually to strengthen and also to enlarge the human under- standing.. a 3 It vI PREFACE. Ir is indeed true, that in respect to this, as well as other branches of science, there have been many pro- ductions, which for a time wereapplauded and admired, and which, notwithstanding, have served rather to mislead, than to instruct men’s minds, by a display of specious falsehoods, highly acceptable to such as read merely for amusement. But these authors of mar- vellous, and very often incredible relations; of strange and surprizing adventures; these pompous describers of wonderful curiosities, which men of more penetration, but of sounder judgements, could never afterwards, though pursuing the same routes with their utmost diligence, discover; quickly lost that credit, which novelty alone gave them; and, being once exploded by sensible judges, gradually sunk, first into the contempt, and then into the oblivion, they deserved. These books, however, are thus far useful, that they serve to give us a clearer idea of our wants, and a more just notion, than perhaps we could otherwise obtain, of the qualities requisite to render voyages and travels truly worthy of esteem. ‘They demonstrate very fully, that, in the first place, it is of great con- sequence, to know the characters of the authors we peruse, that we may judge of the credit that is due to their reports ; and this as well in point of abilities, as of veracity ; for many writers impose on the world, not through any evil intention of deceiving others, but because they have been deceived themselves. They relate falsehoods, but they believe them: we cannot thereforejustly accuse themof want of candour; the fault properly to be laid to their charge, is cre- dulity. We are most in danger of suffering by those authors, who have either lived in, or passed through countries, that are rarely visited, and into which few are permitted to come, This protects their mistakes 1 for PREFACE, VII for a great length of time; and we know that pre- scription is a fortress in which error often holds -out a long siege. ‘There cannot therefore be a more acceptable tribute offered to the republic of letters, than voyages or travels, composed by persons of es- tablished reputation for learning, and in equal esteera for their probity. But the value of the present is much enhanced, if these voyages or travels respect countries little known, the coasts of which only, perhaps, have been accidentally visited by seamen, or harassed and plundered by privateers, persons often of suspected faith, and almost always of very limited capacities. Some few exceptions indeed there may be to this general rule; but even in regard to these, there will be necessarily great defects ; and allowing them their highest merit, they can only report truly the lit- tle they have seen: and what idea can we form of a Turkey carpet, if we look only at the border, or, it may be, at the selvage ? Tue authors, whose writings are now offered to the public in an English dress, are men of the most respect- able characters, men distinguished for their parts and learning, and yet more for their candour and integri- ty: men who did not travel through accident, but by choice; and this not barely their own, but ap- proved by authority, and approved because they were known to be equal to the task they undertook; and that task was, the examining every thing they went to see, with all possible care and scrupulous attention, in order to furnish the public with such lights as might be entirely and safely depended on. This was the design which they undertook : this design they executed with the circumspection it deserved; and the punctuality with which they discharged it, has procured them the just returns of favour from their royal master, and the applause and approbation el 24 tne VIII PREFACE, the best judges in their own and other countries, These are circumstances that distinguish, in a very singular degree, the following work ; circumstances that, no doubt, will have their proper weight, and which it would’be entirely needless for us to enforce, though it would have been inexcusable not to have mentioned them. THERE is however one other circumstance that de- serves particular notice, which 1s, that, with respect to the characters and abilities of these gentlemen, all does not rest either upon their writings or foreign autho- rities: they have been in this country ; were seen and known by those who were best able to judge of their merit ; and, in consequence of that, are both of them members of our royal society. They continued here some time, conversed indifferently with all sorts of people, and were unanimously allowed to have very extensive views in respect to science; great sagacity ; much application; were very assiduous and very accu- rate in their enquiries, as well as candid and commu- nicative in relation to thediscoveries and observations which they had made in their travels. — Men of such ta- lents, and such dispositions, must render themselves agreeable every where; much more ina country of li- berty,and where, without partiality, we may have leave to say, the sciences are as deeply rooted, and flourish in as high a degree, as in any other in Europe. We will add, that, from a knowledge of their merit and candour, they not only received the greatest civilities, but the most seasonable protection, to which, insome measure, the world is indebted for this very-perform- ance, as the reader will learn in the perusal of it; ac- companied with those marks of gratitude and respect, which were due to their kind benefactors; more espe- cially the late worthy president of the royal society, whose memory is justly dear toall who had the me a! o PREFACE. IX af being in the least acquainted with him*; and that humane and polite patron of every useful branch of li- terature, Earl Stanhope ; whose noble qualities reflect honour on his titles, and who inherits the virtues of his illustrious father, one of the bravest men, and one of the most disinterested ministers, this nation could ever boast. ’ AFTER doing justice to the authors, let us come to the work itself. In pieces of this kind, there is, ge- nerally speaking, no partso tedious and unpleasant, at least to the generality of readers, as what regards oc- currences at sea; and yet these are allowed to have their utility.. In the following sheets, however, though they are found pretty copiously, we shall see them without those defects. If these writers mention the variation of the compass, they explain the nature, en- quire into the cause, and shew the uses that arise from observing this phenomenon. In this manner, they treat of calms, winds, currents, and other incidents, in so succinct and scientific a method, as at the same time to be very instructive, aud not unentertaining. In this respect, we may look upon their narratives as a sort of practical introduction to theart of navigation, which we not only read without disgust, but which, when read with any tolerable attention, will enable us to understand many passages in other writers of voya- ges, which we should otherwise pass over, as utterly uninteresting and unintelligible. This observation, the reader will find so fully verified, from his own experience, that, lam confident, he will think it no small recommendation to the book ; and the more so, because, though very necessary, and much wanted, > * Martin Folkes, Esq.; a gentleman not more conspicuous from his extensive knowledge, than amiable for the politeness of his man- ners, and respectable for his excellent private character. 2 e x PREFACE. the difficulties attending it had hitherto, in a great measure, discouraged any such attempt. Tue geographical descriptions we have of the country about Carthagena, the isthmus of Darien, the Terra Firma, the countries of Peru and Chih, those watered by the vast river of the Amazons, and, in a word, of the greatest part of South America, are not only perfectly accurate, very methodical, and, in all respects, full, clear, and satisfactory; but also what we greatly wanted, and what we never had, at least in any comparison with what we now have, before this work appeared. ‘These are countries that, from the time of their discovery, have maintained the re- putation of being as pleasant, as fertile, and as va- luable, as any upon the globe. But though we knew this in general, and, from the Spanish descriptions and histories, were not altogether unacquainted with many particulars relating to them; yet with respect to any distinct and precise delineation of their several provinces, their divisions and subdivisions, the dis- tribution of mountains, rivers, plains, and other cir- cumstances, with their relations to each other, and comparative values in all respects, they were things not barely unknown, but such as we could never expect to know, from the nature of the Spanish go- vernment, with any degree of certainty. But by the accident of these gentlemen going thither, with no other view than the improvement of knowledge, pur- suing that view with the most lively zeal and assi- duous application, and founding their reputation upon a plain and candid communication of all that knowledge, which, with so much pains and labour, they had acquired; we have now as clear, concise, and correct a representation of these extensive re- gions, as we can possibly desire: such a one, as will answer all the ends of information and instruction, | enable PREFACE. xi enable us to discover the errors and partialities in former accounts, and prevent our being amused or misled by any erroneous relations for the future ; which are certainly circumstances of very great con- sequence. Tue natural history of these countries will be like- wise found in the following sheets, in a manner no less perfect and pleasing. These gentlemen went about it in a proper method, and with the talents requisite to the complete accomplishment of theirdesign. They saw things with their own eyes, they enquired care- fully, but they took nothing on trust: on the contra- ry, they discovered, and they have disclosed, many er- rors of an old standing; exploded various common notions that were ill founded, and have left others in the state in which they ought to be left, as things not thoroughly proved, or absolutely disproved ; but which are reserved for further examination. It is chiefly from the natural history, that we collect the value and importance of any country, because from thence we learn its produce of every kind. In these sheets we find the greatest care taken in this particu- lar; all the riches of the mineral, vegetable, and ani- mal kingdoms exhibited to our view, their places exactly assigned, their respective natures described, the methods of using, improving, and manufacturing them, pointed out; and, exclusive of a multitude of vulgar errors exposed, and mistaken notions refuted, an infinity of new, curious, and important remarks are made, all tending to explain and 1lustrate the re- spective subjects. Of these many instances might be given; but that would be to anticipate the reader's pleasure, and arrogate to ourselyes the merits of the authors we celebrate. i XII PREFACE. In respect to the civil history, the world in general was yet more in the dark, than as to the natural; knowing much less of the inhabitants than of the com- modities of these countries; and in this respect, our authors have been as Candid, as circumstantial, and as copious, as in the other. ‘They not only acquaint us with the distribution and disposition of the Spanish governments; with the nature, extent, andsubordina- tion of those who preside in them ; but have also given us a regular plan of their administration, and of the order and method in which justice is dispensed, and the civil policy maintained ; the domestic ceconomy of. the Spaniards, their customs, manner of living, their way of treating the Indians, both subjects and savages, are stated with the same freedom and preci- sion. In like manner they give us a succinct account of the Creoles, that 1s, such as are descended from the Spaniards, and have been longer or later settled in the Indies, with whatever is peculiar in respect to the ge- nius, humour, virtues, and vices of these people; and more especially the points in which they differ from the native Spaniards. The state and condition of the Indians who live in subjection to the Spaniards, their tempers, employments, good and ill qualities, labours and diversions. The habitations of the free Indians, their customs, dress, manner of spending their lives, exercises, talents, religion, and method of preserving the remembrance of past transactions, as also the condition of the Negroes and Mulattoes, whether in the capacity of slaves, domestic servants, or in-pos- session of their freedom, with whatever differences occur in the state of any of these peopie in different provinces. Bur to the English reader, perhaps, nothing in the following pages will be more acceptable, as indeed nothing PREFACE, XIIL nothing seems to have been more carefully considered by the authors, than the commercial history of these countries, We find here, not only the principal commodities of every province distinctly enume- rated; but we are also informed of the particular places where they grow, their different qualities and degrees in value, the method of collecting and curing most part of them, the manufactures of cotton, wool, and other materials, the produce of their mines and different kinds of metal, their pote teries, and whatever else is the object of industry and skill: The manner of conveying them from one province to another, the great roads, the inland and coasting navigation, their commerce with Spain, their contraband trade, the manner of introducing, and the great consumption, of European commo- dities and manufactures, the advantages and dis- advantages attending their present regulations, the discoveries that are yet to be made, and the ims provements which may still take place in the ma. nagement of affairs in those countries: The singular Inventions of the natives for passing great rivers, transporting their goods by the help of vessels of their own construction, their adroitness in some re- spects, and their stupidity in others.—From the due consideration of this part of the work, the reader will perceive, that in many things we have been im- posed upon, in former accounts ; and that other things, ina long course of years, are very much changed from what they were. But instead of old errors, we shall find many new truths, and some established from example and experience, that are of too great con- sequence not to be frequently remembered, and perfectly understood : Such as, that countries are not the better, and, which is still stranger, are not the richer, for producing immense quantities of gold and silver; since this prevents their being cul. tivated, XIV PREFACE. tivated, exposes the natives to pass their lives. in the severest drudgery, and, after all, makes the digging of metal from the mine little more than drawing water in a sieve; since, in such countries, riches disappear almost as soon as they are revealed. Industry alone, in the old world, and in the new, has the power of acquiring and preserving wealth, and this too without the trouble of mining. | Besides, though not insisted upon, it will be evidently seen, that severity in government, and superstition in re- ligion, subvert both liberty and morals, and are con- sequently in all respects destructive of the happiness of mankind. | THE account given by our authors, of the missions which the Jesuits have established in Paraguay, is as interesting as it is entertaining ; and may be very justly considered as one of the most curious and best written parts of the whole performance; since, at the same time that it breathes all the deference and respect possible for the fathers, it informs us of a great variety of facts of so much the more, conse- ‘quence, as, at the time it was written, nobody could foresee that the courts of Madrid and Lisbon would make so thorough a change as they have done in their sentiments in regard to this order; and there- fore the informations these gentlemen give us, are the more to be relied on. They shew us in what manner, and under what specious pretences, the Jesuits acquired a kind of independent possession of so large a tract of country, and, except their annual tribute, an almost absolute dominion over an immense number of. people. They acquaint us, that there is a civil government in every village, after the model of the Spanish towns ; "but the magis- trates are chosen by the people, subject only to the approbation of the father Jesuit, who resides in, and, PREFACE. xXx Y and, in reality, governs the village. We learn from them, that the Jesuits draw from the people all the commodities and manufactures that are fit for foreign commerce, which are vended by a commissary of their appointing, and the returns in European com- modities made to and distributed by them at their pleasure; they tell us, that the church in every village is spacious, and elegantly adorned; that, though they are styled villages, they are in effect large towns, and the houses j in them neat, commo- dious, and, in comparison of the Spaniards’, very well amicheds We learn from them, that, under a pretence of the excursions of the Portuguese, who used to seize these Indians and make them work in the mines, and of the savage Indians who sur- rounded them in a manner on all sides, the fathers have taught them the use of arms, make them spend their holidays in military exercises, have a large body of well-disciplined troops, magazines - well furnished with military stores, together with mills and other necessary machines for making their own gunpowder. They likewise let us know, that, to prevent the manners of their disciples from being corrupted, the Jesuits exclude them entirely from all communication with strangers, whether Europeans or Indians, and suffer none to enter into their mis- sions, who may report either the strength or the weakness of their condition, or penetrate into the mysteries of their policy. ANOTHER point worthy of notice is, the account of the little island of Fernando de Norona. ‘This, so inconsiderable in itself, so unfit for habitation, from its being sometimes three or four years without rain, was abandoned by the Portuguese; yet, being within sixty or seventy leagues of the coast of Brazil, was eccupied by the f ‘rench Fast-India company; which induced KVI PREFACE. induced its former masters to repossess it, and to for- tify it likewise, notwithstanding the aforementioned inconvenience. ‘The building here no less than seven forts, to cover and command three harbours, in the largest of which there is a garrison of a thousand re- gular troops, relieved constantly once in six months from Fernambuca, plainly proves, that either the force of the Portuguese 1s much greater in those parts than we commonly apprehend in Europe: or, which is more probably the truth, that they are to the last degree jealous and suspicious of that enterprizing nation, who, in virtue of the great law of conveni- ence, are for appropriating to their own use what- ever they find themselves in a condition to seize and tosecure. This gives us the true cause of that surprize and uneasiness which the Portuguese, during the last war, expressed, when a French squadron, witha body of Jand-troops on board, intended against our settle- ments in the East Indies, touched there, on account of an epidemic disease among their troops; which, it seems, the Portuguese mistook for the epidemic thirst of gold; and were so apprehensive of their making a visit to their mines, that though they could not well refuse them relief in their distress, yet the took almost the same precautions as if declared ene- mies had landed in their country. ANOTHER point of great utility, that will result from the perusal of this work, is the obtaining a clear and candid account of the flourishing state of the French colonies in St. Domingo; which, considering that the gentleman from whom we have it is a Spa- niard, and consequently unexceptionable in his tes- timony, will suffice to give us a just idea of the pro- digious advantages derived to France from their co- | Jonies in that island. He observes, with great fair- ness and freedom, that the French are well entitled to the PREFACE. XVI the riches they acquire, from their industry and eco- nomy, since, though they occupy the worst part of the island, they are, out of all comparison, in a bet- ter condition than the Spanish inhabitants, who pos- sess the better and more fertile part. He takes notice likewise, that though all correspondence between the - two nations 1s forbidden under the severest penalties, it is notwithstanding open almost in the same degree as if there was no such prohibition; the reason is, becatse the French could scarce subsist, if they were not supplied with cattle from the Spaniards ; and, on the other hand, the Spaniards must go naked, if they did not, by this means, obtain European commodi- ties from the French; so idle a thing it is to think of making a law against necessity! By the balance of this trade the French acquire annually about two millions of pieces of eight, which returns in hard sil- ver, with sugar, indigo, and the other commodities of the growth of their part of the island, which is admirably cultivated, to the ports of France; and is a very considerable addition to the value of their otherwise rich cargoes. Bur the Portuguese and French are not the only strangers into whose circumstances, and management of affairs in America, our authors have enquired ; the reader will find they took no less pains to make them- selves well acquainted with the proceedings of the English. We have not only a full and distinct ac- count of the taking of Louisbourg, and of the con- quest of the island of Cape Breton in the war before the last; but we have aiso a very copious memorial, . drawn from the papers of the marquis de la Maison Forte, of the colony of New England, which he had an opportunity of framing while he remained a pri soner at Boston. It would have been the more satis- factory if we had had the whole of his memoirs ; for Voz. I, b there XVIII PREFACE, there is great reason to judge, from this specimen, that he must have made much deeper researches than he communicated to his Spanish friend, or, at least, than he judged expedient to communicate to the world; otherwise it is very hard to conceive upon what he grounded his notion, that, in the space of a century, the people of New, would be as numerous as those in Old England, and in a condition to give law to all the nations in North America. We have, besides, some very sensible remarks upon the cod- fishery, and the advantages arising from it, as well as our disputes with the French in that part of the world. These speculations, though not always cri- tically right, deserve our notice, and even our strict- est attention. For, however we may be at liberty to conduct our own affairs, we cannot limit the hu- mour, or controul the politics, of our neighbours ; and therefore it is of great service, to be well ac- quainted with their notions. The gteat importance of this subject might have been, and certainly was, discovered long ago, by our politicians of the first order; but it is now become apparent to all ranks of people, and, if the expression may be allowed, from being the object sometimes of discussions in the cabinet, is at present become the topic of vul- gar politicians. | Besipes those that have been already touched, there are a great variety of curious, instructive, and pleasing incidents, in this performance, that cannot fail of giving satisfaction to the ingenious and in- telligent reader: Such as the discussing the causes, why it never rains naturally at Lima, or the country of Valles in Peru; the enquiries into the frequency of volcanoes in South America; the materials, if we may so speak, of those subterraneous fires, the accidents by which they are kindled, and the conse- sequences PREFACE. | KIX quences of theirexplosions; the author’s sentiments as to earthquakes, their extent and direction, the circumstances preceding and attending them, and their different effects in different places.’ Tue value of this Fourth Edition is very much enhanced, by a number of curious, instructive, and explanatory Notes. These cannot fail of giving great satisfaction to the reader, as they serve to rectify some mistakes, and to set a variety of pass- ages in a clearer light, from the writer's thorough acquaintance with the subjects treated in these voyages. He has also given avery accurate account of those parts of Brazil least known to us; and which may be therefore separated as a useful, as well as proper, supplement; and render the work, taken le ea as complete as even a critical reader can esire. b 2 CON- depa Pa ae ob iim Ads oa era y. sano, ¡ds i) 1969la Muir boc sf ib pusiilo MUDA RIOR area gig. vale ao oe ai ¿ye oa, terol “Magill o: eg edd ada ‘iba a 26 Dotaigos sutararda gl qn A ¿Mawisda, tal we Pot ge | sang ae wae. spi mios ear ters | $ 450 pa Bey A 7 ; . y PUES >, 3 AS MN ; 1 A LA A. nye A FOP oy ” Peel ia e GIA / CONTENTS OF VOLUME THE FIRST. BOOK I. CHAP, 1. M OTIVES for this voyage; design of measuring several degrees of the meridian near the equator. Departure from Cadiz. - > ~ If. Arrival at Carthagena. oe situation, and riches of that city. - - 3 IIL. Description of Carthagena Buy. - - IV. Of the inhabitants of Carthagena. > - - V, Ofthe climate. Diseases incident to natives and da reigners. vi Description of the Pee y, and ide the trees and plants in the neighbourhood of Carthagena. - VIL. Of the beasts, birds, reptiles, and insects in the ae ritories of Carthagena. VII. Of the esculent vegetables ; aul food a “the iba tants of Carthagena. IX. Of the trade of "Carthagena, cae other contador of America, on the arrival of Galleons, $e. BOOK II. A. Departure for Porto Bello. General winds and cur- rents between Carthagena and Porto Bello. - JT. Description of the town of St. Philip de Porto Bello. 111. Description of Porto Bello harbour, - IV. Of the climate. Distempers which prove sn to the crews of the Galleons. - V. Of the inhabitants, plants, trees, and AE dtihe Porte Bello. - - - - VI. Of the trade of Porto Bello. - PAGE 98 105 b3 BOO K XN CONTENTS. : CHAP. BOOK III. PAGE I, Voyage up the Chagre, and sh, =k Cruces to Panama by land. - - 107 II. Description of the city of Pana: - 113 Ill. Of the climate and inhabitants of Panama. Fruits produced in the neighbouring country. - - 120 IV. Of the usual food of pe inhabitants, net other ob servations. - 193 V. Of the trade and commerce of Panama. - - 126 VI. Extent of the audience of Panama, in the nada of Terra Firma. Limits of that kingdom, and the provinces which compose it. - - - 132 BOOK IV. 1. Voyage from Perico to Guayaquil. - - 141 II. Voyage from Perico to Puna. - - 147 TI. Of our stay at Guayaquil, and measures taken fora journey to the mountains. - - -- 150 IV. Description of Guayaquil. - - - 152 V. Of the inhabitants, customs, and riches. = - 156 VI. Temperature of the air; different seasons ; inconve- niences ; and distempers. ~ - 158 VIL. Provisions, and manner of living at Guayaquil. - 162 VIII. Extent of the jurisdiction of Guayaquil. - 165 IX. Description of the river of Guayaquil. Houses on ats banks. Vessels trading on tt. Fish and amphi- bious animals frequenting it. - - 177 X. Of the commerce carried on betwixt the impida of Peru, Terra Firma, and the coast of New Spain. - 191 BOOK Y. I. Passage from Ai a to Caracol, and thence to Quito.” - - - - 195 Il. Difficulties attending our making the necessary ob- servations for measuring the length of anfarch of the meridian. Manner of « our living during the opera- tions. = - - - 211 IL, The names of the dete and ey places, where the signals were erected for forming the series of triangles Tor: CONTENTS. XXIII CHAP. PAGE for measuring an arch of the meridian, and where the company resided during the TE - - 229 IV. Description of Quito. = - 248 V. Of the inhabitants of the city of pee - - 261 VI. Temperature of the air. Winter and summer. Incon- veniences. Advantages. Diseases. - - 275 VII. Fertility of its territories, a cae bela if ats inha- bitants. - - 281 VIIL Ofthe commerce of Quito. - - - 291 BOOK VI I. Extent of the province Ep ate, and the aati ofits Audience. - - 294 Il. Sequel of the account of its jurisdictions. - - 315 III. Account of the governments of Popayan and Ata- cames, belonging to the province of Quito. Disco- very, conquest, and peopling of these countries. - $32- IV. Description of the governments of Quixos and Ma- cas. Account ances de Bracomoras ; discovery and conquest of it. = - 351 V. Description of the government 3 Maynas. The river of the Amazons or Maranon. Account of the disco- very and course of that river, and of those which fall into it. - - - 363 VI. Of the Indians in the province a Quito. - - 401 VII. Historical account of the mountains, deserts, and most remarkable cordilleras of the Andes. - 492 VIII. Sequel of the deserts. - - - 433 IX. Phenomena observed in the mountainous deserts, and other parts of this province; dexterity uh American horses. Hunting matches, Sc. - 442 X. Of the silver and gold mines in the eae of Quito, and the method of extracting the metal. - - 447 XI. Monuments of the ancient indians of Quito; of gems and quarries found near this city. - 460 EXPLANATION OF THE ‘ae Ris AE GN et 6 PLATE I.—Page 26. PLAN of the bay of Carthagena. £4 4 plan of the city of Carthagena. PLATE 11.—Page 92. Plan of the harbour and town of Porto Bello. Plan of the city of Quito. a The sagrario. b St. Sebastian. ce St. Barbaria. d St. Roque. e St. Mark. f St. Prisca. g St. Blaize. h The Cathedral. Dresses of men and women of Quito. PLATE III. A Map of South Ámerica. PLATE IV.—Page 444 FIG. 1. View of the desert of Cotopaxi. 2 Phanomenon of the iriss, or rainbows, round the head of the spectator, observed often on the deserts. 4 b EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. XxY b A lunar rainbow, observed by Don George Juan. c The mountain of Cotopaxi, at the time of the eruption > 21743. FIG. 2. View of a torrent, and the manner of passing it. a A bridge of bejucos. b A tarabita, for the passage of horses. c A tarabita, for men. FIG. 3. Works of the ancient Indians, found in their tombs. a A tomb of the ancient Indians. b Plan of a tomb, opened in the form of a cross. c An idol of gold, or statue of some distinguished Indian. d A hatchet, or axe, fixed in a javelin, and used by the Indians in war. €, f, y, Hatchets of different forms. h, i, Ynca rirpos, or mirroirs, formed out of Ynca stone. k A large pot, used by the Indians for holding their chica. 1 Sunga tirana, or knippers, used by the Indians for pulling out superfluous hairs from the face, &c. m Pendant of gold or silver for the ear. n A convex mirroir. o A hatchet of stone. p, a _Guainacaba cruches, or earthen jars, for holding their iquor. LA et, or large pin, for fastening the anaco on their shoul- ers. £, t, Tubus, a sort of needles, used by the Indians in fastening the plaits of the anaco. PLATE V.—Page 468, FIG. 1. a A temple of the ancient Indians, near the village of Cay- ambe, in the province of Quito. b Tombs of the ancient Indians. Cc A fortification or retrenchment of the Indians on the top of a mountain d The village of Cayambe. FIG, 2. View of the ruins of a palace of the Yncas, called Callo, near the town of Lutacunga, in the province of Quito. En- XXVI EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. A Entrance of the palace, B Principal court of the palace. C Apartments of the Yncas, divided into small chambers for the princes. D Doors leading to the royal apartments. E meto: which were formerly subdivisions for the royal fa- mily. F Others in the same taste, for the domestics. G Offices for the use of the prince, with several small divi: sions for keeping curious and savage beasts. H Apartments for the guards. K A mount called Panacillo, which served as a watch-tower when the monarch was in his palace. L A river, which has its source in the desert of Cotopaxi. FIG. 3. The balza. a The prow or head. b. The stern. c The awning or tilt. D The poles or sheers, on which the sail is hoisted. e A kind of bowsprit. g A guara, drawn up. h The fire hearth. i The bowling of the sail. k The back stays. 1 The deck. 1, 1, 1, Other guaras for steering the balza. FIG. 4. View of a palace and citadel of the Yncas, near the Village o Canar. a Entrance of the palace and fortress. b The large court, or place of arms. c The citadelin the form of a donjon. d Barracks or apartments for the guards. e The principal wall. f Steps for mounting the walls. g The apartments, having only one door to each. h Lodgement for the soldiers. i, i, A river running before the palace. k, k, Another river, which, joining the former, surrounds th whole structure. 1, 1, 1, Mountains surrounding the fortress. 3 PLAT! BID Up OOH = En Cn ob 050 sm EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. XXVII PLATE VI.—Vol. Il. Page 30, A plan of Lima. The port of Callao. Different beasts, bc. in the kingdom of Peru, Dress of the Peruvians. PLATE VII.—Vol. II. Page 240. FIG. 1, Plan of the town of Cape Francois, in the Island of St. Domingo. The church. The college of Jesuits. The place of arms. Place of arms without the town. The grand battery. Caverns, or barracks, The litile battery. Mouth of the river. FIG. 2, Men of Chili. FIG. 3. Manner of killing the beasts in Chili. A mine, or quarry, of shells. Manner of killing the beasts in Chita. A pijaro nino. Sea wolves. : The inclosure, in which they confine the beasts intended for the slaughter. A Guaso on horseback, going to throw his noose at the beast. A VOYAGE 7 as tan Yoli EA ae ‘dont: a ba a yá nl Fa «cai an y “hes a ento No ate a ae A WMA GE TO SO OPH "AMERICA: BOOK TI. Reafons for this Voyage; Navigation from the Bay of Cadiz to Carthagena in America, and a De- Scription of the latter. ' e] CHAP. I. Motives of this Voyage to South America, with Remarks on the Navigation between Cadiz and Carthagena. qi Reo heart of man is naturally inclined to attempt things, the advantages of which appear to increafe in proportion to the difficulties which at- tend them. It fpares no pains, it fears no danger in attaining them ; and inftead of being diverted from its purpofe, is animated with freíh vigour by oppofi- tion. The glory infeparable ‘from arduous enter- prites, is a powerful incentive, which raifes the mind above itfelf; the hope of advantages determines the will, diminifhes dangers, alleviates hardíhips, and le- Vox, I. B vels 2 A VOYAGE TO Boox I. vels obftacles, which otherwife would appear unfur- mountable. Defire and refolution are not, however, always fufficient to enfure fuccefs; and die beft-con- certed meafures are not always profperous. Divine Providence, whofe over-ruling and incomprehenfible determinations direct the ¿ríe of human actions, feems to have prefcribed certain limits, beyond which all our attemptsare vain. ‘The caufes his infinite wif- dom has thought proper to conceal from us, and the refult of fuch a conduct is rather an obje& of our re- verence than fpeculation. The knowledge of the bounds of human underftanding, a difcreet amufe- ment and exercife of our clea for the demonftra- tion of truths which are only to be attaincd by a con- tinual and extenfive fiudy, which rewards the mind with tranquillity and pleafure, are advantages worthy of our higheft efieem, and objecis which cannot be too much recommended. In all times the defire of enlightening others, by fome new difcovery, has roufed the induftry of man, and engaged bim in laborious refearches, and by that means “proved the principal fource of the eater mica of the fciences. THiwes which have long bafiled fagacity and ap- plication, have fometimes been difcovered byschance. '"Phe firmeft refolution has often been . difcouraged by the infuperable precipices, which, in appearance, ¡en- circle his inveftigation. The reafon is, becaufe the ob- ftacles are painted, by the imagination, in the molt lively colours ; but the methods of furmounting them elcape our attention; till, fmoothed by labour and ° application, a more eafy paflage is difcovered. AMONG the difcoveries mentioned in hiftory, whe- ther owing to accident or reflection; that of the In- dies is not the leaft advantageous. ‘Thefe parts were for many ages unknown to the Europeans; or, at leaft, the remembrance of them was buried in obli- vion. They were loft through a long fucceffion of time, and disfigured by the confufion and darknefs in which Catt! SOUTH AMERICA. 5 which they were found immerfed. At length the happy gra arrived, when induftry, affifted by refolution, was to remove all the difficulties exaggerated by ig- norance. This is the epocha which diftinguifhed the reign, in many other refpects fo glorious, of Ferdinand of Arragon, and Ifabella of Cafiile. Reafon and ex- perience at once exploded all the ideas of rafhnefs and ridicule which had hitherto prevailed. It feems as if Providence permitted the refufal of other nations, to augment the glory of our own; and to reward the zeal of our fovereigns, who countenanced this import- ant enterprife; the prudence of their fubjects in the conduét of it, and the religious end propofed by both. I mentioned accident or reficction, being not yet con- vinced, whether the confidence with which Chriftopher Columbus maintained, that weftward there were lands undifcovered, was the refult of his knowledge in cof- mography and experience in navigation, or whether it was founded on the information of a pilot, who had actually difcovered them, having been driven on the coafts by ftrefs of weather; and who, in return far the kind reception he had met with at Columbus's houfe, delivered to him, in his laft moments, the pa- pers and charts relating to them. The prodigious magnitude of this continent; the multitude and extent of its provinces; the varicty of its climates, products, and curious particulars; and, lafily, the diflance and difficulty of one part communi- eating with another, and efpecially with Europe, have been the caufe, that America, though difcovered and inhabited in its principal parts by Europeans, is but imperfectly known by them; and at the fame time keptthem totally ignorant of many things, which would greatly contribute to give a more perfect idea of fo con- fiderable a part of our globe. But though inveftiga- tions of this kind are worthy the attention of a great prince, and the ftudies of the mofi piercing genius among his fubjects; yet this was not the principal 2 intention 4 A VOYAGE TO. Boox E intention of our voyage. His majefty’s wife refolu- tion of fending us to this continent, was principally owing to a more elevated and important defign. Tue literary world are no ftrangers to the cele- brated queftion that has lately produced fo many treatifes on the figure and magnitude of the earth; which had hitherto been thought perfectly fpherical. The prolixity of later obfervations had given rife to two oppofite opinions among philofophers. Both fuppofed it to be elliptical ; but one affirmed its tranf- verfe diameter was that of the poles, and the other that it was that of the equator. The folution of this problem, in which not only geography and cofmo- graphy are interefted, but alfo navigation, aftrono- my, and other arts and fciences of public utility, was what gave rife to our expedition. Who would have imagined that thefe countries, lately difcovered, would have proved the means of our attaining a per- feét knowledge of the old world; and that, if the former owed its difcovery to the latter, it would make it ample amends by determining its real figure, which had hitherto been unknown or controverted ? who, I fay, would have fufpected that the fciences fhould, in that country, meet with treafures, not lefs valuable than the gold of its mines, which has fo greatly en- riched other countries? How many difficulties were to be furmounted in the execution! what a feries of obítacles were to be overcome in fuch long opera- tions, flowing from the inclemency of the climates ; the difadvantageous fituation of the places where they were to be ode and in fine, from the very nature of the enterprife ! All thefe circumflances infinitely height- en the glory of the monarch, under whofe aufpices the enterprife has been fo happily accomplithed. This difcovery was referved for the prefent age, and for the two Spanifh monarchs, the late Philip V. and Ferdinand VI. The former caufed the enterprile, to be carried into execution, .the latter honoured it am is beh SOUTITAMPRION::.. "3 his countenance, and ordered the narrative of it to, be publifhed; not only for the information and in- ftruGion of his own fubjeéts, but alfo for thofe of other nations, to whom thefe accounts will prove, equally advantageous, And, that this narrative may, be the more inftruétive, we hall introduce the parti- cular circumftances which originally gave occafion to our voyage, and were in a manner the bafis and rule of the other enterprifes, which will be,mentioned in the fequel, each in its proper order. Tue attention of the Royal Academy'of Sciences at, Paris, for the improvement of human. knowledge, and its continual ardour to difcover. and apply the beft methods for that noble end, could not fit down, contented. under the uncertainty concerning the real, figure and magnitude of the earth; the inveftigation, of which had, for feveral years paft, employed the, moft eminent geniufes of Europe. This learned af-, fembly reprefented to their fovereign the neceflity of determining a point, the exact decifion of which was of fuch great moment, efpecially to geography and navigation; and at the fame time laid before him a’ method of doing it. This was, to meafure fome de-. gree of the fiverididn near the equator; and (as was done with great propriety after our departure) by meafuring ber degrees under the polar circle, in or- der to form a jodement of the different parts of its ‘circumference, by their equality or inequality, and from thence to determine its magnitude and figure, No country feemed fo proper for ‘this as the province of Quito in South America. The other countries under the equinoctial line, both in Afia and Africa, were either inhabited by favages, or not of an extent fufficient for thefe. operations ; fo that, after the moft mature réflection, that of Quito was judaed to be the only place adapted to the, plan in queftion. His Moft Chriftian majefiy Lewis XV. applied, by his minifters, to king Philip, that fome members B 3 ot 6 A VOYAGE TO Boos f. of his royal academy might país over to Quito, in order to make there the “necelTary obfervations; at the fame time fhewing the intention and univerfal ad- vantage of them, and how very remote they were from any thing which tends to awaken a political jea- Joufy. His majefty, perfuaded of the candour of this application, and defirous of concurring in fo noble a defign, as far as was confiftent with the dignity of his crown and the fafety of his fubjects, referred the matter to the council of the Indies: and, on their favourable report, the licenfe was granted, with all the neceffary recommendations and affurances of the royal protection to the perfons who were to repair to America to make thefe obfervations. The patents, which were made out for them on the 14th and 20th of Auguft 1734, contained the moft precife orders, to the viceroys, governors, é&c. in the countries through which they were fo país, to aid and affifi them, to thew them all friendíhip and civility, and to fee that no perfons exacted of them for their carriages or la- bour more than the current price; to whic h his ma- jefty was pleafed to add the higheft proofs of his royal munificence, and of his zeal for the advancement of the fciences, and efteem for their profeffors. This general regard of his majefty was followed by fome “meafures, particularly defigned to promote the honour of the Spanifh nation, and to give his own fubjecis a tafie for the fame f{ciences. He ap- pointed two officers of his navy, well {killed in ma- thematics, to join in the obfervations which were to be made, in order to give them a greater dignity and. a more extenfive advantage ; and that the Spaniards might owe only to themfelves the fruits aud im- provements expected from them. His majefty alfo conceived, that the French academicians, having thefe officers in their company, would be more regarded by the natives; and, in the places through which they were to pals, all umbrage would be thus o apes Pace: SOUTH AMERICA. 7 - from perfons who might not be fufficiéntly acquainted with the nature of their defign. Accordingly the commanders and directors of the academy*of the royal Guardas Marinas received orders to recommend two perfons, whofe difpofitions not only promifed a perfect harmony and correfpondence with the French acade- micians, but who were capable of making, equally with them, the experiments and operations that might be neceffary in the courfe of the enterprife. Don Georce Juan, commander of Aliaga, of the order of Malta, fub-brigadier in the Guardas Marinas, equally diftinguifhed by his application to the mathematics and his faithful fervices to the crown, was, with myfelf, prapofed to his majelty, as quali- fied to contribute to the fuccefs of fuch an enierprife. We had commiffions given us as licutenants of men of war, and, with all neceffary inftruétions, were or- dered to embark on board two fhips fitting out at Cadiz, for carrying to Carthagena, and thence to Porto Bello, the marquis de Villa-garcia, appointed viceroy of Peru. About the fame time the French academicians were to fail in a fhip of their nation, and, byway of St. Domingo, to join us at Carthagena, in order to proceed from thence in company. Tse two men of war on board of which we had been ordered, were the Conquiftador of 64 guns, and the Incendio of 50; the former commanded by Don Francifco de Liano, of the order of Malta, commo- dore, and the latter by Don Auguftin de Iturriaga, by whom it was agreed that Don George Juan íhould go in the Conquiftador, and myfelf in the Incendio. We failed from Cadiz bay, May 26, i735; but, the wind fhifting, were obliged to put back and come to an anchor about half a league without Las Puercas. On the 28th, the wind coming about to the N. E. we again fet fail, and continued our couríe in the manner related in the two following Journals. \ B4 Journal $ A VOYAGE TO Book I. Fournal of Don George Fuan, on board the Conguifiador. HE fecond of June 1735, faw the Canary iflands; and the winds, which are uiually very variable in this paffage, were either N. W. by N. or N. E. Don George Juan, by his reckoning, found the difference of longitude between Cadiz and the Pico of Teneriffe 10° 3o”. AccorpDING to father Feuillée’s obfervations, made at Loratava, fix minutes and a half eaft of the Pico, the difference of the longitude betwixt the latter and the obfervatoay at Paris is 18° 51’. Subtracting there- fore 8° 27’, which, according to the Connoiflance des Tems, is the difference of longitude between that ob- fervatory and Cadiz; the difference of longitude be- tween that city and the Pico is 10°24’, and confe- quently differs 6’ from Don George’s reckoning. On the 7th we loft fight of the Canaries, and con- tinued our courfe towards Martinico, fteering fouth between 42 and 45 degrees wefterly, increafing the angle every day, til near the ifland, we fteered due weft under its parallel, and on the 26th of June dif- covered Martinico and Dominica. Tue difference of longitude between Cadiz and Mar- tinico appeared, from our reckoning, to be 59° 55, that 18, 3° 55’ more than the chart of Antonio de Matos makes it; which is however generally followed in this voyage. According to the obfervations of father La- val, made at Martinico, the difference of longitude Ae 8° 45" ; according to thofe of father Feuillée, 55° 19. This error in a great meafure proceeds from a want of accuracy in the log-line; for had the pilot of the Conquiftador, who found the fame defect in his calculations, made the diftance between the knots of the log-line 30 Englith feet, inftead of 47 and a half, Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 9 half, the difference of longitude, by account, would have been only 57°. This error in marking the log- line is common both to the pilots of Spain and other nations; and this, like many other faults in naviga- tion, remains uncorrecied for want of attention. Tue diftance between the knots on the log-line fhould contain +35 of a mile, fuppofing the glafs to run exactly half a minute: and though all agree in this re- fpect, yet not in the true length of the mile, which ought to be determined by the moft exact menfura- tions, as thofe of M. Caflini in France, ours in the province of Quito, or thofe of M. Maupertuis in Lapland. If the length of the degree be computed ac- cording to M. Caflini’s meafures, 57060 toifes, a mi- nute or geographical mile wall contain 951 toifes, or 5706 royal feet, of which rts 15 nearly equal to 47 feet 61 inches; and as the Paris foot is to that of London as 16 to 15 *; this, when reduced to Englifha meafure, makes near 50 feet 87 inches. And this is the true diftance between each knot on the log-line. Tuis menfuration, which fhould have been hitherto the rule obferved, is not exact, when compared to that which has been found from inveftigating the figure of the earth, which is difcovered to be very different from what it has been imagined ; fo that it is not furprifing that there fhould be found confiderable differences in nautical calculations. * According to the late regulation of the Royal Society of London, and the meafures fent by it to the Academy of Sciences at Paris, and with which I was favoured by Martin Folkes, Efq. the worthy pre- fident of that fociety, the Paris foot is to that of London as 864 to e which fhews how erroneous thefe are publifhed by father ofca*. * The Paris foot is divided into 12 inches, and each inch into. 12 lines; wherefore, if we fuppofé each line to be divided in 310 parts, The Paris foot will be 1440 parts, The London, 1350. Thefe proportions were fettled by the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, in their treatife of the figure and magnitude of the earth, Part xi, Chap. 5, which fhews the erroneoufneís of the aboye. A. The io: A VOYAGE TO Book 1. The dutbor's Fournal, cn board the Incendio, AVING fet fail on the fame day, namely, the 28th of May 1735, and fteered S. between 52 and 56 deg. wefterly, we perceived, on June 2, about fix in the evening, the ifland of Savages, one of the Canaries; and on the 3d we faw Teneriffe. J found the difference of longitude between Cadiz and Naga- point to be 11° 6, hicks agrees with the Englifh ane Dutch charts, but differs a “little from the true longi- tude determined by father Feuillée at Loratava, in the fame ifland of ‘Teneriffe. On the 4th, we had fight of the iflands of Palma, Gomera, and Fer; but again loft fight of them on the oth. On the 29th, about noon, we made Martinico, and continuing our courte, beatae between that ifland and Dominica. ‘The difference of longitude between Martinico and Cadiz bay, according to my reckoning, was 57° 5”, one degree, more than ‘San Telmo's chart makes it. But it is proper to obíerve, that, in order to eftimate my courfe, and avoid the danger of find- ing a great difference at making land, I followed two, ditrenent calculations, one according to the meafures commonly given by pilots to the diftance between the knots on the log-line, of 47 Englifh feet and a half, and the other by reducing them to 47 royal feet; for though, in firictnefs, it ought to have been 472 of the latter, the difference being but fimall, I thought it bett to omit the half foot, that my reckoning might be be- fore the fhip. According to the firft method, the dif- . ference of longitude between Cadiz and this ifland was between 60 and 61 degrees, whiclr nearly agrees with the Journal of Don George. From Martinico we continued our courfe towards Curafao, which we had fight of July 3d. The differ-' ence Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 11 ence of meridians between that and Martinico, Don George Juan found to be 6° 49’, whereas I made it 7° 56’. The caufe of this difagreement was, that, finding” a fenfible difference in the latitudes, I regulated mytelf by the currents, imagining, according to the opinion of all our navigators, that they fet to the N. W.; which Don George did not, and by that meahs his reckoning aníwered to the real diftance betwixt thefe two iflands, and mine was erroneous. But that the water was in motion, is not to be queftioned; for in all the latitudes from June 30, to July 3, thofe found by obfervation exceeded thofe by account, 10’, 13’, and even 15 minutes; a fufficient proof that the cur- rents run directly N, ad not N. W, From the 2d at fix in the morning, till the day we made Curafao and Uruba, we had fhallow water, of a grcenifh colour, which continued till about half paít feven in the evening, when we entered the gulf. Our couríe from Martinico to Curafao, during the two firft days, was fouth 81° wefterly; and the two Jaft fouth 64° wefierly. From thence to Cartha- gena we kept at a proper difiance from the coaft, fo. as to diftinguifh its moft noted capes, and imhas bited places. On the sth we difcovered the mountains of St. Martha, fo well known for their height, and being all covered with fnow; and at fix in the morning we croffed at the current of thick water, which iffues with prodigious rapidity from the river de la Magdalena, and extends feveral leagues into the fea. About fix in the evening found ourfelves to the northward of Cape de Canoa, where we lay to, and continued till feven in the morning, when we fet all our fails, which at eight in the evening brought us under “fort Boca Chica, where we came to an anchor in 34 fathom water, 4he bottom muddy. On the 8th we endea- voured to get into Carthagena bay, but could not before the gth fecurely moor our (hip. Durine © 12 A VOYAGE TO Book k Durine our paflage betwixt the Canary iflands, we had faint and variable winds, with fome fhort calms; but, after we had loft fight of them, the gales iftiecved upon us, but imbderata, and contada in this manner till we arrived within 170 or 180 leagues of Martinico, when we had fqualls accompanied with violent rains. After pafling the Canaries, at about twenty leagues from thefe tflands, we had the wind at north-weít, and at the diftance of near 80 leagues it fhifted to E. and E. N. E. .We had’ neatly the fame in the middle of the Atlantic ocean, and after- wards the. wind came about to the E. with different degrees of velocity ; ; but the variation was not fuch as to occafion any inconveniency. These are the winds generally met with in this voyage. Sometimes it veers away to the W. and W. N. W. though. it is very feldom known to con- tinne.on theíé points. Sometimes long calms inter- vene, which lengthen the voyage beyond the ufual time. All this depends on the feafons; and ac- cording to the time of the voyage, the weather and winds are more or leís favourable.’ The winds above- mentioned are the moft general; and the beft time for making ufe of them, as they then are fettled, is when the fun approaches near the.equator in his re- turn from the tropic of Capricorn: for his approach to the autumnal equinox is the time when the calms moft prevail. From the iflands of Martinico and Dominica to that of Curafao and the coaft of Carthagena, the winds continued the fame as in the ocean, though more variable, and the weather leís fair. 1 have faid, that about 170. leagues before we reached Martinico the winds were interrupted by fqualls; and thefe are more common beyond thofe iflands, and are immediately fucceeded by fhort calms; after! which the wind frefhens again for half an hour, an hour, two hours, and fometimes longer. From what quarter thefe tornadoes O . SOUTH AMERICA. 13 tornadoes or fqualls procced, I cannot pofitively af- firm; but this is certain, that when they are over, the wind begins to blow from the fame point as before, and nearly with the fame force. And here it may be of ufe to obferve, that, on any appearance of thefe fqualls in the atmofphere, the utmoft expedition muft be ufed in getting the fhip in readinefs, their impetuofity being fo fudden as to admit of no time for preparatives ; and therefore the leaft negligence may be attended with the moft fatal confequences. In the voyage from Cadiz to the Canaries, in fome parts, though the winds are otherwile moderate, the fea is agitated by thofe from the N. and N. W. fome- times in large and long waves ; fometimes in fmall but more frequent ones, which happens when the wind blows firongly along the coaft of France and Spain; for in the ocean the winds are lo mild, that the motion of the {hip is hardly perceived, which renders the paflage extremely quiet and agreeable. Within the windward iflands, and even before we reach them, in the parts where thefe terrible {qualls prevail, the fea is agitated in proportion to their violence and duration ; but no fooner is the wind abated, than the water be- comes again clear and fmooth. Tue atmofphere of the ocean aníwers to the calm- nefs of the winds and fea, fo that it is very feldom an obfervation cannot be taken, either from the fun’s being obfcured, or the hazinefs of the horizon. This is to be underftood of the fair feafon; for otherwife here are datk days, when the air is filled with vapours, and the horizon very hazy. At all times it is feen filled with white and towering clouds, embellifhing the fky with a variety of figures and ramifications, which amule the eye, tired with being fo long con- fined to two fuch fimilar objects as the fea and iky. Within the windward. iflands ihe variety is fill greater, the quantity of vapours profufely exhaled, fill- ing it in fach a manner, that fometimes nothing. but clouds 14 A VOYAGE TO Boox 1. clouds are to be feen, though part of thefe are gra- dually difperfed by the heat of the fun, fo that fome parts are quite clear, others obícure; but a general darkneís during the whole day is never known. © Fr is well known and allowed, that, through the whole extent of the ocean, not the leaft current is per- celvable, till we arrive within the iflands, where in fome parts they are fo ftrong and irregular, that, without the greateft vigilance and precaution, a fhip will be in great danger among this archipelago. This fubject, together with the winds peculiar to this coall, fhall hereafter be confidered more at large. In the track to Martinico and Dominica there is a fpace where the water, by its white colour, vifibly diftinguifhes itfelf from the reft of the,ocean. Don George, by his eftimate, found this {pace to terminate 100 leagues from Martinico; whereas, according to my reckoning, it reached only to within 108 leagues; it may therefore, at a medium, be placed at 104. This fmall difference, doubtlefs, proceeds from the diff- culty of difcovering where this whitifh colour of the water terminates, towards Martinico. It begins at about 140 leagues from that ifland, which muft be underflood of the place where the different colours of the water are evident ; for, if we reckon from where it begins to be juft difcernible, the diftance is not lefs than 180 leagues. This traQ of water is a certain mark for directing one’s courfe; becaufe, after leaving it, we have the fatisfaction of knowing the remaining ciftance: it is not delineated on any map, except the new one Jately publifhed in France; though it would doubtleís be of great ufe in them all. Notuinc farther remains, than to give an account of the variation of the needle in different parts in which we found the fhip by her latitude and longi- tude; a point of the utmoft confequence in navigation, not only with regard to the general advantage to ma- : tiners in knowing the number of degrees intercepted between Cn. Lo. SOUTH AMERICA. a between the magnetic and true north of the world; but alfo as, by repeated obfervations of this kind, the lon- gitude may be found, and we may know within a de- gree, or a degree and a half, the real place of the thip; and this is the neareft approximation to which this has been carried by thofe who revived it at the beginning of this century. Among thefe the chief was that cele- brated Englifhman, Dr. Edmund Halley: in emula- tion of whom, many others of the fame nation, as alfo feveral Frenchmen, applied themfelves to the improve- ment of it. We already enjoy the fruits of their la- bours in the variation charts lately publifhed, though they are principally ufefal only in long voyages; where the difference of two or of even three degrees is not accounted a confiderable error, when there is a cer- tainty that it cannot exceed that number. ‘This fyfiem, though new with regard to the ufe it 1s now applied to, is lar ffom being lo among the Spaniards and Por- tuguefe, very plain veltiges of it remaining in their old treatifes of navigation. Maniel de Piguey redo, cofmo- grapher to the king of Portugal, in his Hydrographia, or Examin de Pilotos, printed at Liibon in 1608, chap. ix. and x. propofes a method for finding, from the variation of the needle, the diftance run in failing. eafi and weft. And Don ree os de Plores, 1 in his Arte de Navegar, printed in 1672, chap.-i. part-1i.-quótes this author, as an penny to confirm the fame re- mark made by himielf; adding (chap. 1x.) that the Portugucfe, in.all their egulation $ concerning navi- gation, recommend it 1s a certain method. It muft however be acknowledged, that thofe ancient writers have not handled this point with the penetration and accuracy of the Englifh and French, affifted by a greater rere ef more recent obfervations. And that the obfervations made in this voyage may be of the molt general ufe, I fhall infert then: in the two follow- ing tables ; previoutly informing, the reader,. that the longitudes correfponding with each are. true, the error 16 A VOYAGE TO Boox I. error of the courfe with regard to the difference of me- tidiaiis being corrected from the obfervations ee the fathers Laval and Feuillée. | Variations obferved by Don George Juan, the Longitude being reckoned weft from Cadiz. Deg. of Deg. of Lat Long. BT 20) "BE OO Apo: e i” EN io 24 00 17 00 231201": 76 29 30. 20,09 BY SO AZ. OO ZU 261100 16” .20,..43 00 15, 240 "AB. 100 Off Martinico Variation obferved. 8 6 4 3 2 I O 4 5 6 AAA oo W. 20 39 30 30 30 30 CoE: 00 ole) Variation by the chart. g ooW. y ZO 6 00 ‘eG £38 4 00 3 00 2 30K, 3 20 5 00 Differ- | ence. 00 00 == +$3NNDNDDDm”m Am” mn ioe) O Variations obferved by the Author, the Longitude being Deg. of Deg. of Lat. Long. 36: '20:| 00) 25 SE! 2a /OGe 20 3G LER EON 2 E 26 57 14 54 250). 5S AAN 16.28.1148 46 15 ¿20% Ag) 38 Off Cape de la Vela reckoned from the former Meridian. Variation obferved. 9 30W. 7% GO 6 00 4 00. 3 40 o 30E, 2180 6.'.'Ob . Variation by the chart. “13° ooW., ro 30 A ae 7 00 611130 2 ook, 4 00 vee $9 H & Bm SN Od Gd & 09 LoS) (e) To the above obfervations on the variation of the needle, compared with thofe on the variation chart, firft . publithed by the great Dr. Halley in 1700, and cor- . rected Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 17 rected in 1744, from other obfervations and journals by Meff. Montaine and Dodfon of London, I fhall add fome reflections, in order to expofe the negligence i in conftruéting the magnetic needles. 1. It appears that the variations obferved by Don George Juan do not agree with mine, whichis not to be attributed to ade- . fect in the obfervations. This is fufficiently evident from comparing them. The differences between thofe obferved by Don George and thofe on the chart, are nearly every where uniform ; the moti confiderable be ing a degree and 50 minutes; one making the variation 230%, and the other a degree only. This probably arofe from the motion of the fhip, which hinders the needle from being entirely at reft; or from the difk ot the fun, by ‘reafon of intervening vapours, not being ac- curately determined, or fome other unavoidable acci- dent ; the error, when the difference is lefs than a de- gree, being fcarce perceivable in thefe obfervations. Thus, on a medium, the rational conclufion is, that the needle ufed in thefe obfervations varied a degree and 40 minutes lefs than thofe when the map was confiructed. Tue fame uniformity appears in the differences be- tween my obfervations and the chart; but at muft be obíerved, that having ufed two different needles, the particulars of each nearly correfpond, fo that between the five firft, the greateli difference is of 40 minutes, which intervene between the fmalleft difference of 2° 50’, and the greateft of 3° 30°. Hence, taking the medium between both, the difference between my ob- fervations and the chart will be 3° 16’, the latter being fo much leís than the former. The three laít do not want this operation, the difference of 1° 30” being equal in all, and the variations refulting from thefe ob- fervations are alfo leís than thofe delineated on the map; the variation having paffed to a different {pe- cies; namely, from N.W.toN.E, This demonftrates, that the firft needle I made ufe of, whether it had been ill touched or the fieel not accurately placed, varied 1° 30” wefterly leís than that ufed by Don George Vor. I, C Juan; 18 A VOYAGE TO : Boox I. Juan; and as this officer continued his obfervations to the end of the voyage with the fame needle, the difference, which at firft was negative, on the varia- tion changing its denomination beeante poíitive; and from my changing inftruments, the difference on my fide continued always negative. ‘The reafon of this is, that the difference of the five firft obfervations pro- ceeded lefs from a real difference in the variation, than from the poles of the needle, which was fo far from ' anfwering exactly with the meridian-line on the com- pafs-card, that it inclined towards the N. W.; the contrary happened in the fecond compaís made Life of, its inclination being towards the N. E. ; confequently, whatever the angle of that inclination was, it occa- fioned a proportionate diminution in the variation of a-contrary f{pecies. Tuese obfervations, thus compared, fhew the errors to which navigators are liable, for want of attention in making choice of proper needles, which they fhould be careful to procure, not only well made and exact, but alfo ftricily tried with regard to their inclination to the true meridian, before they venture to depend upon them in any voyage. In this point Spain is guilty of a notorious neglect, notwithftanding it is evidently the fource of a thoufand dangcrous errors; fora pilot, in correcting the courfe he has fieered, in making ule ofa compaís whofe variation is different from the true, will confequently find a difference between the latitude by account and the latitude obferved; and to make the neceflary equation according to the rules commonly re- ceived in failing on points near the meridian, he muft either increafe or diminifh the difiance, till it agrees with the latitude, whereas in this cafe the principal error proceeded from the rhomb. The fame thing hap pens in parts where it is apprehended there may be cur- rents; which often occur in failing when thelatitudeb account, and that by obfervation, difagree ; though in reality the water has no motion, the difference pro- ceeding entirely from making ufe of another varia- tion Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 19 tion in the courfe, than that of the needle by which the fhipis fleered ; as was the cafe with me in failing from Martinico to Curafao, and likewife of all the artifts on board the fhip. Another error incident to navigators, though not fo much their own, is to fteer the fhip by one needle, and obferve the variation by another; for _ though they have been compared, and their differences carefully obferved, their motions being unequal, though at the beginning of the voyage the difference was only a certain number of degrees, the continual friction of the former on the pivot, renders the point of the needle, on which it is fufpended, more dull than the other, which is only hung when they make obfervations, being at all other times kept with the greateft care; and hence proceeds the change obfervable in their differences. In order to remedy this evil, all needles intended to be ufed at fea fhould be equally proper for obferving the variation ; and the obfervation made with thofe before placed in the bittacle; and, to improve the charts of variation, fhould be touched in the fame manner, and _ adjufted to the meridian of a place, where the exact variation is known. ‘Thus obfervations made in the fame places by different fhips, would not be found fo confiderably to vary; unlefs the interval of time be- tween two obfervations be fuch as to render fenfible that difference in the variation, which has been obferved for many years patt, and is allowed of by all nations. These are the caules of the manifeft difference be- tween needles; there may be others, but this is not the proper place for enumerating them. . CHAP... H. Defcription of Carthagena, de the gth of July 1735; we landed, and Don George Juan and myfelf immediately waited on the governor of the place. We were informed that the Cua French 20 CAVA TO Body T: French academicians were not yet arrived, nor was there any advice of them. Upon this information, and being by our inftruétions obliged to wait for them, we agreed to make the beft ufe of our time; but were un- happily deftitute of inftruments, thofe ordered by his majefty from Paris and London not being finifhed when we left Cadiz, but were forwarded to us at Quito foon after our arrival. We however fortunately heard that “there were lome in the city, formerly belonging to Bri- gadier Don Juan de Herrera, engineer of Carthagena ; ; by thefe we were enabled to make obfervations on the latitude ,longitude,and variation of the needle. We alfo drew plans of the place and the bay from thofe of this enginecr, with the neceflary additions and alterations. Iw thefe operations we employed ourtelves till the middle of November 1735, impatient at the aie o the French academicians. At length, on the 15th, French armed veflel came to an ‘anchor. during fee night, under Boca Chica; and to our great {atisfaction we SS that the long- -ex pel “ted centlemen were on board. Gn the r6th we vifited eae and were received with all imaginable politeneis by Mr. de Ricour, cap- tain of a man of war, and king’s lieutenant of Cin rico, in the ifland of St. Domingo ; ; and Meff. Godin, Bou- guer, and de la Condamine, academicians, who were accompanied by Meff. Jufiieu, botanift; Seniergues, furgeon ; Verguin, Couplet, and Deflordonais, aflo- ciates ; Morenvile, draughtíman; and Eiugot, clock- maker. Our intention being to go to the equator with all pofíible expedition, nothing remained but to fix on the mofi convenient and expeditions route to Quito. Hav- ing agreed to go by the way of Porto Bello, Panama, and Guayaquil, we prepared to fail; in the mean time, by. help of the inftruments brought by the academi- clans, we mepsated our obfervations on the Jatitude, weight of the air, and the variation of the needle; the refult of which will appear in the following deferip-- tion. THE Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. : 21 Tue city of Carthagena ftands in 10 deg. 25 min. 48 1 fec. north latitude; and in the longitude of 282 deg. 28 min. 36 fec. from the meridian of Paris ; ; and 301 deg. 19 min. 36 lec. from the meridian of Pico Teneriffe ; as appeared from our obfervations. ‘The variation of the needle we alfo, from feveral obferva- tions, found to be 8 deg. eafierly. Tue bay, and the country, before called Calamari, were difcovered in 1502 by Roderigo de Baftidas; and in 1504 Juan de la CofaandChriftopher Guerra began the war againft the Indian inhabitants, from whom they met with greater refiftance than they expected ; thofe Indians being a martial people, and valour fo na- - tural to them, that even the women voluntarily fhared in the fatigues and dangers of the war. Their ufual arms were arrows, which they poifoned with the juice Of certain herbs; whence the flighteft wounds were mortal. ‘Thefe were fucceeded by Alonfo de Ojeda, who fome years after landed in the country, attended by the fame Juan de la Cofa, his chief pilot, and Amerco Vefpucio, a celebrated geographer of thote times ; but made no greater progreís than the others, though he had feveral encounters with the Indians. Nor was Gregorio Hernandez de Oviedo more fortu- nate, But, at length, the conquelt of the Indians was accomplifhed by Don Pedro de Heredia, who, after ‘gaining feveral victories over them, peopled the city in the year 1533, under the title of a government. Tue advantageous fituation of Carthagena, the ex- tent and fecurity of its bay, and the great fhare it at- tained of the commerce of that fouthern continent, foon caufed it to be erected into an epifcopal fee. The fame circumftances contributed to its prefervation and increafe, as the-moft efteemed fettlement and ftaple of the Spaniards; but at the fame time they drew on it the hoftilities of foreigners, who, thirfting after its tiches, or induced by the i importance of the place, have teveral times invaded, taken, and plundered it, Crs THE 22 A VOYAGE TO Boox 1, Tue firft invafion was made foon after its eftablifh- ment in 1544, by certain French adventurers, conduét- ed by a Corfican pilot, who, having fpent fome time there, gave them an account of its fituation, and the avenues leading to it, with every other particular ne- ceffary to the fuccefsful conduct of their enterprife; which they accordingly effected. The fecond invader was Francis Drake, termed the deftroyer of the new conquefis, who, after giving it up to pillage, fet it on fire, and laid half the place in afhes ; and its fatal de- 1; ftruélion was only prevented by a ranfom of a hundred — and twenty thoufand filver ducats paid him by the neighbouring colonies. Tv wasinvaded a third time in 1597, by the French, commanded by M. de Pointis, who came before the place with a large armament, confifting partly of Fli- buftiers, little better than pirates: but, as fubjects to the king of France, were protected by that monarch. After obliging the fort of Boca Chica to furrender, whereby the entrance of the bay was laid open, he landed his men, and befieged Fort Lazaro, which was followed by the furrender of the city. But the capi- tulation was no fecurity againft the rage of avarice, which had configned it to pillage. a This eafy conqueft has by fome been attributed to a private correfpondence between the governor and Pointis; and what increafes the fufpicion is, that he embarked on board the French fquadron at its de- arture, together with all his treafures and effects, none of which had fhared in the general calamity. Tue city is fituated on a fandy ifland, which forming a narrow paflage on the S. W. opens a communication with that part called Tierra Bomba, as far as Boca Chica. Theneck of land which now joins them, was formerly the entrance of the bay; but it having been clofed up by orders from Madrid, Boca Chica became the only entrance; and this alío has been filled up fince the attempt of the Englith in 1741, who, having made | themfelves Cu. II. SOUTH AMERICA. 03 ~ themfelves mafters of the forts which defended it, en- tered the bay with an intent of taking the city; but they mifcarried in theirattempt, and retired with con- fiderable lofs. This event caufed orders to be dif- patched for opening the old entrance, by which all fhips now enter the bay. On the north fide the land is lo narrow, that, before the wall was begun, the dif- tance from fea to fea was only 35 toifes; but after- wards énlarging, forms another ifland on this fide, and the whole city is, excepting thefe two places which are _ very narrow, entirely furrounded by the fea. Ealtward it communicates, by means of a woeden bridge, with a large fuburb resi Xexemani, built on “another iland, which has alío a Mts with the con- tinent by means of another wooden bridge. The forti- fications both of the city and fuburb are conftruéted in the modern manner, and lined with free-ftone. The garrifon in times of peace confifis of ten compa- nies of regulars, each containing, officers included, 77 men ; befides feveral companies of militia, In the fide of Xexemani, at a fmall diftance from that fuburb, on a hill, is a fort called St. Lazaro, com- manding both the city and fuburb. The height of the hillis between 20 and 21 toifes, having been geometri- cally meafured. It is joined to feveral higher hills, which run in an eaftern direction. Thefe terminaje in another hill of confiderable height, being 84 toifes, called Monte de la Popa, and on the top of it is a con- vent of bare-footed Auguítines, called Nuefira Senora de la Popa. Here is an enchanting profpect, extend- ing over the country and coaft to an Tmmentfe diftance. Tue city and fuburbs are well laid out, the ftreets being firaight, broad, uniform, and well paved. The houtes are built of ftone, except a few of brick; but confift chiefly of only one ftory abovethe ground-floor ; the apartments well contrived. All the houfes have balconies and lattices of wood, as more durable in this climate than iron, the latter being foon correded and C4 _ defiroyed 24 A VOYAGE TO Boox I. deftroyed by the moifture and acrimonious quality of the nitrous air; from whence, and the fmoky colour of the walls, the outfide of the buildings makes but an indifferent appearance. Tue churches and convents of this city are the ca- thedral, that of the Trinity in the fuburbs, built by bifhop Don Gregory de Molleda, who alfo in 1734 founded a chapel of eafe dedicated to St. Toribio. The orders which have convents at Carthagena are thofe of St. Francis, in the fuburbs, St. Dominic, St. Auguftin, La Merced, alfo the Jacobines, and Recollets ; a col- lege of Jefuits and an hofpital of San Juan de Dios. The nunneries are thofe of St. Clara and St. Tereía. All the churches and convents are of a proper architec- ture, and fufficiently capacious; but there appears fomething of poverty in the ornaments, fome of them wanting what even decency requires. The commu- nities, particularly that of St. Francis, are pretty nu- merous, and confift of Kuropeans, white Creoles, and native Indians. | CARTHAGENA, together with its fuburbs, is equal to a city of the third rank in Europe. It is well peopled, — though moft of its inhabitants are delcended from the Indian tribes. It is not the moft opulent in this coun- try, for, befides the pillages it has fuffered, no mines are worked here; fo that moft of the money feen in it is fent from Santa Fe and Quito, to pay the falaries of the governor and other civil and military officers, and the wages of the garrifon; and even this makes no Jong fiay here. It is not however unfrequent to find perfons who have acquired handfome fortunes by commerce, whofe houfes are fplendidly furnithed, and who live in every reipect agreeable to their wealth. ‘The governor refides in the city, which till 1739 was,independent of the military government. In civil affairs, an appeal lies to the audience of Santa Fe; and a viceroy of Santa Fe being that year created, under the title of viceroy of : New Granada, the government of Carthagena became 4 | fubjeér Ca. IL. - SOUTH AMERICA, 25 “Subject to him alío in military affairs. The firft who filled this viceroyalty was lieutenant-general Don Se- baftian de Eflava; who defended Carthagena againtt the powerful invafion of the Englifh in 1741. CartHaGena has alío a bifhop, whofe {piritual ju- rifdiction is of the fame extent as the military and civil government. The ecclefiaftical chapter is compofed of the hifhop and prebends. ‘There is alío a court of inquifition, whofe power reaches to the three provinces of Ifla Ef{panola (where it ‘was firít fettled), Terra Firma, and Santa Fe. Bespes thefetribunals, the policeand adminifiration of jufiice in the city is under a fecular magifiracy, con- fifting of regidores, from whom every year are chofen two alcaldes, who are generally perfons of the higheft efteem and diftinction. There is alfo an office of re- venue, under an accomptant and treafurer: here all taxcs and monies belonging to the king are received ; and the proper iffues directed. A perfon of the law, with the title of auditor de la gente de guerra, deter- mines proceifes. Tue jurifdiction of the government of Carthagena reaches ealtward to the great river dela Magdalena,and along it fouthward, till, winding away, it borders on the province of Antioquia; from thence it firetches weft- ward to the river of Darien; and from thence north- ward to the ocean, all along the coafts between the mouths of thefe two rivers. The extent of this govern- ment from E. to W. is generally computed at 53 Jeagues; and from S.to N. 85. In this fpace are feveral fruitful vallies, called by the natives favannahs; as thofe of Zamba, Zenu, Tolu, Mompox, Baranca, and others; and in them many fettlements large and {mall, of Europeans, Spanifh Creoles, and Indians. There is a tradition, that all thefe countries, together with that of Carthagena, whilft they continued in their native idolatry, abounded in gold; and fome veftiges of the old mines of that metal are ftill to be feen, inthe neighbourhoods of Simiti San Lucas, and ne - uf 26 A VOYAGE TO Boox I, but they are now negleéted, being, as imagined, ex- haufted. But what equally contributed to the richnefs of thiscountry was the trade it carried with Choco and Darien; from whence they brought, in exchange for this metal, the feveral manufaClures and works of art they ftood in need of. Gold was the moft common ornament of the Indians, both men and women. CHAP. III. Defcription of Carthagena Bay. CF ne ees bay is one of the beft, not only on ' the coaft, but alfo in all the known parts of this country. It extends 21 leagues from north to fouth ; has a fufficient depth of water and good anchorage ; and fo fmooth, that the fhips are no more agitated than on a river. “The many fhallows indeed, at the entrance, on fome of which there is fo little water that even ean vellels ftrike, render a careful fteerage ne- ceffary. But this danger may be avoided, as it generally is, by taking on board a pilot ; and for further fecu- rity, his majetty maintains one of fufficient experi- ence, part of whofe employment is to fix marks on the dangerous places. The entrance to the bay, as 1 have already obferved, was through the narrow ftrait called Boca Chica, a name very properly adapted to its narrowneís, figni- fying in Spanith Little Mouth, admitting only one fhip at a time, and even fhe muft be obliged to keep cloíe to the fhore. This entrance was defended on the E, by a fort-called St. Lewis de Boca Chica, at the ex- tremity of Tierra Bomba, and by Fort St. Jofeph on the oppofite fide in the ifle of Baru. The former, after fuftaining, in the laft fiege by the Englith, a vigorous © attack both by fea and land, and a cannonading of eleven days, its defences ruined, its parapets beat down, | and all its artillery difmounted, was relinquithed. The enemy being thus mafters of it, eleared the entrance, and phot che SE Cruz A Scale of Toíses. reo 400 Geo Soo 000, SS = Plan of Carthagena. 2.Fort eg S*Plollip deBarmas, 2»Hospital yy S*Lazaro. 3.The Cathedral, = ; eleven days, its defences ruined, its p : and all its artillery difmounted, was relinquithed. The enemy being thus matters of it, eleared the entrance, and Cm. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 27 and with their whole fquadron and armaments moved to the bottom of the bay. But, by the diligence and indufiry of our people, they found all the artillery of fort Santa Cruz nailed up. This fort was alfo, from its largenefs, called Cattillo Grande, and commanded all the fhips which anchor inthe bay. This, together with that of Boca Chica, St. Jofepb, and t:vo others, which defended the bay, called Manzanillo and Pafte- lillo, the enemy, enraged at their difappointiment, de- molifhed when they quitted the bay. The promifing beginning of this invafion, as I have already obferved, gave occafion to the fhutting up and rendering imprac- ticable the entrance of Boca Chica, and of opeuing and fortifying the former ftrait; fo that an enemy woul now find it much more difficult to force a patiage. Tue tides in this bay are very irregular, and the lame may nearly be faid of the whole coaft. It is often feen to flow a whole day, and afterwards ebbs away in four or five hours; yet the greateít alteration obferved in its depth is two feet, or two feet and a half. Sometimes it is even lefs fenfible, and only to be perceived by the current or flow of the water. This circumítance in- creafes the danger of firiking, though a ferenity con- tinually reigns there. The bottom alfo being compofed of a gravelly ooze, whenevera {hip is aground, it often happens that fhe muft be lightened before fhe can be made to float. “Powarbs Boca Chica, and two leagues and a half diftant from it feawards, there isa fhoal of gravel and coarfe fand, on many parts of which there is not above a foot and a half of water. In 1735, the Conquifiador man of war, bound from Carthagena to Porto Bello, firuck on this fhoal, and owed her fafety entirely to a very extraordinary calm. Some pretended to fay that the fhoal was before known by the name of Salmedina; but the artifts on board affirmed the contrary, and that the fhoal on which fhe ftruck had never been heard of be- fore. From the obfervations of the pilots and otbers, Nuesira | 28 A VOYAGE TO. Boox I.. Nuefira Senora de la Popa bore E. N. E. two degrees | north, diftance two leagues; the caftle of St. Lewis de Boca Chica, E.S. E. diftance three leagues and a half, and the north part of Ifla Vofaria, fouth one quarter | wefterly. It muft, however, be remembered that thefe obfervations were made on the apparent rhombs of the - needle. . Tue bay abounds with great variety of fifh both — wholefome and agreeable to the palate ; the moft com- © mon are the fhad, the tafte of which is not indeed the © moft delicate. The turtles are large and well tafted, * But it is greatly infefted with fharks, which are ex- tremely dangerous to feamen, as they immediately feize © every perfon they difcover in the water, and fometimes > even venture to attack them in their boats. It is a 7 common diverfion for the crews of thofe fhips who ftay * any time in the bay, to fifh for thefe rapacious mon- | fiers, with large hooks faftened to a chain; though, © when they have caught one, there is no eating it, the ficíh being as it were a kind of liquid fat. Some of them — have been feen with four rows of teeth; the younger — have generally but two. The voracity of this fith is fo © prodigious, that it fwallows all the filth either thrown - “out of fhips, or calt up by the fea. I myfelf faw in the fiomach of one, the entire body of a dog, the fofter parts only having been digefted. The natives affirm — that they have alfo feen alligators; but this being a © {refh-water animal, if any were ever feen in the fea, it © 4 | | muft be fomething very extraordinary. | In the bay the galleons from Spain wait the arrival — of the Peru fleet at Panama; and on the firftadvice of — this, fail away for Porto Bello; at the end of the fair _ held at that town, they return into this bay, and, after - taking on board every neceflary for their voyage, putto fea again as foon as poflible. During their abfence the bay is little frequented ; the country veffels, which are only a few bilanders and feluccas, ftay no longer than is neceflary to careen and fit ont for profecuting: their voyage. CHAP. Ca. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. CHAP. IV. Of the Inhabitants of Carthagena. HE inhabitants may be divided into different | cafts or tribes, who derive their origin from a coalition of Whites, Negroes, and Thdiatis: Of each of thefe we fhall treat particularly : Tue Whites may be divided into two claffes, the Eu- ropeans, and Creoles, or Whites born in the country. The former are commonly called Chapetones, but are not numerous; moft of them either return into Spain after acquiring a competent fortune, or remove up into inland provinces in order to increafe it. ‘Thofe who are fettled at Carthagena, carry on the whole trade of that place, and live in opulenee: wlhilft the other inhabit- ants are indigent, and reduced to have recourfe to mean and hard labour for fubfiftence. The families of the White Creoles compote the Janded interefi ; fome of them have large eltates, and are highly refpected, becaufe their ancefiors came into the country invefted with honourable pofts, bringing their families with them when they fettled Hera! Some of thefe familtes, in order to keep up their original dignity, have either married their children to their equals 1 in the country, or fent them as officers on board the gallcons; but others have greatly declined. Befides thefe, there are other Whites, in mean circumftances, who either owe their origin to Indian families, or at leaft to an intermarriage with them, fo that there is fome mixture in their blood; but when this is not diícoverable by their colour, the conceit of being Whites alleviates the preffure of every other calamity. Among the other tribes which are derived from an intermarriage cf the Whites with the Negroes, the first are the Mulattos. Next to thefethe Tercerones, pro- duced from a White and a Mulatto, with fome approxi- mation to the former, but not fo near as to obliterate their 30 A VOYAGE TO Boox I. their origin. After thefe follow the Quartcrones, pro- eceding roe a White. and a Terceron. ‘Fhe laft are 4 the Glanleroties: who owe their origin to a White and Quarteron. Dhisi Is the laft gradation, there being no © vifible difference between them and the W hites, either in colour or features ; nay, they are often fairer than the Spaniards. The children of a White and Quinte-- ron are alfo called Spaniards, and confider themfelves as free from all taint of the Negro race. Every períon : is fo jealous of the order of their tribe or caft, that if, — through inadvertence, you call them bya degree lower | than what they agtaally are, they are highly offended, - never fuffering themfelves to be deprived of fo calle a gift of tame Bana they attain the clafs of the Quinterones, . there are feveral intervening circumftances which throw them back; for between the Mulatto and the Negro there is an intermediate race, which they call Sambos, owing their origin to a mixture between one of thefe matt an Indian, or among themfelves. They are alfo diftinguifhed according to the cafts their fathers were of. Betwixt the Tercerones and the Mulattos, the Quarterones and the Tercerones, &c. are thofe called Tente en el Ayre, fufpended in the air, becaufe they neither advance nor recede. Chil- dren, thofe parents are a Quarteron or Quinteron, and a Mulatto or Terceron, are Salto atras, retrogrades, becaufe, infiead of advancing towards being Whites, they have gone backwards towards the Negro race. The children between a Negro and Quinteron “are called Sambos de Negro, de Mulatto, de ‘Terceron, &c. THESE are the o ion and common tribes or Caftas; there are indeed feveral others proceeding from their intermarriages ; but, being fo various, even they themfelves cannot eafily diftinguifh them; and thefé are the only people one fees”in the city, the eftancias *, and the villages; for if any Whites, efpe- cially * Eftancia properly fignifies a manfion, or place where one ftops to reft; but at Carthagena it implies a country-houfe, which, by rea- fon Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 38 cially women, are met with, it is only accidental; thefe generally refiding in their houfes ; at. leaft, if they are of any rank or character. These cafis, from the Mulattos, all affect the Spa- nifh dreís, ‘but wear very flight fiuffs on account of the heat of the climate. Thefe are the mechanics of the city ; the Whites, whether Creoles or Chapitones, difdainmg fuch a mean occupation, follow nothing below merchandife. But it being impoflible for all to fucceed, great numbers not being able to procure fuf- ficient credit, they become poor rand miferable from their averfion to thofe trades they follow in Europe ; and, inftead of the riches which they flattered them- felyes with poflefling in the Indies, they experience the mot complicated wretchedneís. Tue claís of Negroes is not the leaft numerous, and is divided into ud parts; the free and the flaves. Thete are again fubdivided into Creoles and Bozares, part of which are employed in the cultivation of the haziandes *, or eltancias. Thofe in the city are ob- liged to pecform the moft laborious fervices, and pay out of their wages a certain quota to their mafters, fub- fifting themielveson the {mall remainder. The violence of the heat not permitting them to wear any clothes, their only covering is a fmall piece of cotton ftuff about their wait; the female flaves go in the fame manner. Some of theíe live at the eftancias, being married to the flaves who work there; while thofe in the city fell in the markets all kind of eatables, and dry fruits, fweet- meats, cakes made of the maize, and caflava, and feve- ral other things about the ftreets. Thofe who have chil- dren fucking at their breaft, which is the cafe of the ge- nerality, carry them on their fhoulders, in order to have their arms at liberty; and when the infants are hungry, fon of the great number of flaves belonging to it, often equalsa confiderable village. * Hazianda in this place fienifies a country-houfe, with the lands belonging to it. they Y A VOYAGE TO Boox I. they give them the breaft either under the arm or over the fhoulder, without taking them from their backs. This will perhaps appear incredible ; but their breafts, being left to grow without any preffure on them, often hang down to their very waift, and are not therefore difficult to turn over their fhoulders for the convenience of the infant. _ ‘Tue dreís of the Whites, both men and women, dif- fers very little from that worn in Spain. The perfons in grand employments wear the fame habits as in Eu- rope; but with this difference, that all their clothes are very light, the waiftcoats and breeches being of fine Bretagne linen, and the coat of fome other thin fluff. Wigs are not much worn here; and during our ftay, the governor and two or three of the chief officers only appeared in them. Neckcloths are alfo uncommon, the neck of the fhirt being adorned with large gold but- tons, and thefe generally fuffered to hang loofe. On their heads they wear a cap of very fine and white linen. Others go entirely bareheaded, having their hair cut from the nape of the neck *. Fans are very commonly worn by men, and made of a very thin kind of palm in the form of a creícent, having a ftick of the fame wood in the middle. Thote who are not of the White clafs, or of any eminent family, wear a cloak and a hat flap- ped; though fome Mulattos and Negroes drefs like the Spaniards and great men of the country. The Spanifh women wear a kind of petticoat, which they call pollera, made of a thin filk, without any lining; and on theirbody, a very thin white watítcoat; but even this is only worn in what they call winter, it being infup- portable in fummer. They however always lace in fuch a manner as to conceal their breafis. When they go abroad, they wear a mantelet ; and on the days of * Here, and in moft parts of South America, they have their hair cut fo fhort, that a ftranger would think every man had a wig, . but did not wear it on account of the heat,—A, precept, Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 33 precept, they go to mafs at three in the morning, in order to difcharge thai duty, and return before the vio- lent heat of the day, which begins with the dawn *, Women wear over their pollera a taffety petticoat, of any colour they pleafe, except black ; this is pinked all over, to fhew the other they wear under it. On the head is a cap of fine white linen, covered with lace, in the fhape of a mitre, and, being well ftarched, terminates forward ig a point. This they call panito, and never appear abroad without it, and a mantelet on their fhoulders. The ladies, and other native Whites, ufe this as their undreís, and it greatly be- comes them ; for having been uted to it from their in- fancy, they wear it with a better air. Inftead of fhoes, they only wear, both within and without doors, a kind of flippers, large enough only to contain the tip of their feet. In the houfe their whole exercife _confifts.in fitting in their hammocks +, and fwinging themfelves for air. “his is fo general a cuftom, that there is not a houfe without two or three, according to the number of the family. In thefe they país the greater part of the day; and often men, as well as. women, fleep in them, without minding the inconve- niency of not firetching the body at full length. Boru texes are poffciled of a great deal of wit and penetration, and alfo of a genius proper to excel in all kinds of mechanic arts. ‘This is particularly con- fpicuous, in thofe who apply themfelves to literature, and who, at a tender age, fhew a judgment and per- fpicacity, which, in other climates, is attained only by a long feries of years and the grgatelt application. This happy difpofition and perfpicacity continues till they are between twenty and thirty years of age, after _. * The heat is inconfiderable, compared with that of the after- noon, till half an hour after funrife. A. : _t Thefe hammocks are made of twifted cotton, and commonly knit in the manner of a net, and make no fmall part of the trathck of the Indians, by whom they are chiefly made. A. Voz. I. D which 34 A VOYAGE TO Book f. which they generally decline as faft as they rofe ; and frequently, before they arrive at that age, when they fhould begin to reap the advantage of their ftudies, a natural indolence checks their farther progrefs, and they forfake the fciences, leaving the furprifing effects of their capacity imperfect. Tue principal caufe of the fhort duration of fuch promifing beginnings, and of the indolent turn fo often feen in thefe bright geniufes, is doubtlefs the want of proper objects for exercifing their faculties, and the {mall hopes of being preferred to any poft anfwerable to the pains they have taken. For as there is in this country neither army nor navy, and the civil employ- ments very few, it is not at all furprifing that the de- {pair of making their fortunes, by this method, fhould damp their ardour for excelling in the fciences, and plunge them into idlenefs, the fure forerunner of vice; where they lofe the ufe of their reafon, and fiifle thofe good principles which fired them when young and under proper fubjection. The fame is evident in the mechanic arts, in which they demonftrate a furprifing íkill in a very little time; but foon leave thefe alfo imperfect, without attempting to improve on the me- thods of their mafters. Nothing indeed is more fur- prifing than the early advances of the mind in this country, children of two or three years of age con- verfing with a regularity and ferioufnefs that is rarely feen in Europe at fix or feven; and at an age when they can fcarce fee the light, are acquainted with all the depths of wickednefs. _. Tue genius of the Americans being more forward than that of the Europeans, many have been willing to believe that it alfo fooner decays; and that at fixty years, or before, they have outlived that folid judg- ment and penetration, fo general among us at that time of life; and it has been faid that their genius de- cays, while that of the Europeans is haftening to its maturity and perfection. But this is a vulgar preju- dice, Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. —_ 35 dice, confuted by numberlefs inftances, and particu- larly by the celebrated father Fr. Benito Feyjoo, Téatro Critico, vol. iv. effay 6. All who have travelled with any attention through thefe countries, have ob- ferved in the natives of every age a permanent capa- city, and uniform brightnets of intellect; if they were not of that wretched number, who diforder both their minds and bodies by their vices. And indeed one often fees here perfons of eminent prudence and ex- tenfive talents, both in the fpecylative and practical fciences, and who retain them, in all their vigour, to a very advanced age. Cuariry is a virtue in which all the inhabitants of Carthagena, without exception, may be faid particu- larly to excel; and did they not liberally exert it to- wards European ftrangers, who generally come hither to feek their fortune, fuch would often perifh with ficknefs and poverty. This appears to mea fubject of fuch importance, though well known to all who have vifited this part of the world, that 1 fhall add a word or two on it, in order to uhdección thofe, who, not contented with perhaps a competent eftate in their own country, imagine that is only fetting their foot in the Indies, and their fortune is made. Those who on board the galleons are called Puli- zones, as being men without employment, ftock, or feddmmendation ; who, leaving their country as fugi- tives, and, haat licenfe from the officers, come to feek their fortune in a country where they are utterly unknown; after traverfing the ftreets till they have nothing left to procure them lodging or food, they are reduced to have recourfe to the laft extremity, the Francifcan hofpital; where they receive, in a quantity fuffiicient barely to keep them alive, a kind of pap made of cafava ; of which as the natives them- felves will not eat, the difagreeablenets to wretched mortals never ufed to fuch food, may eafily be con- D 2 ceived. 36 . A VOYAGE TO Book T. ceived *, This is their food; their lodging is the en- trance of the fquares and the porticos of churches, till their good fortune throws them in the way of hiring themíelves:to fome trader going up the country, who wants a fervant. The city merchants, ftanding in no need of them, difcountenance thete adventurers. Affeded by the difference of the climate, aggravated by bad food, dejected and tortured by the entire dit appointment of their romantic hopes, they fall into a thoufand evils, which cannot well be reprefented; and among others, that diftemper called Chapeto- nada, or the diffemper of the Chapetones, without any other fuccour to fly to, than Divine Providence ; for none find admittance into the hofpital of St. Juan ‘de Dios, but thofe who are able to pay, and, confe- quently, poverty becomes an abfolute exclufion. Now it is that the charity of thefe people becomes confpicuous. he Negro and Mulatto free women, moved at their deplorable condition, carry them to their houfes, and nurfe them with the greateft care and affection. If any one die, they bury him by the charity they procure, and even caufe mafles to be faid for him. The general iffue of this endearing benevo- lence is, that the Chapetone, on his recovery, during the fervour of his gratitude, marries either his Negro or Mulatto benefaétrefs, or one of her daughters ; and thus he becomes fettled, but much more wretchedly than he could have been in his own country, with only his own labour to tubfifi on. Tas difintereftednefs of thefe people is fuch, that their compaition towards the Chapetones muft not be imputed to the hopes of producing a marriage, it being very common for them to refufe fuch offers, * This is called Mandioc by the natives, and's the chief fubftitute _ the poorer people have for bread ; and fo far from being rejected even by the riche?, that many prefer it to bread made from the beft Euro- peán flour, much more to bifcuit, which after fuch a voyage g genes, “+ rally begins to be full of weevils, . time the moft poifonous, are the corales, or coral-fnakes, the cafcabeles, or rattle-fnakes, and the culebras de be- juco*. The firft are generally between four and five feet in length, and an inch in diameter. They make a very beautiful appearance, their {kin being all over variegated with a vivid crimfon, yellow, and green. The head is flat and long, like that of the European viper. Each mandible is furnifhed with a row of pointed teeth, through which, during the bite, they infinuate the poifon ; the perfon bit, immediately fwells to fuch a degree, that the blood gufhes out through all the organs of fenfe, and even the coats of the veins at the extremities of the fingers burft, fo that he foon expires. The cafcabel or rattle-fnake feldom exceeds two feet, or two feet and a half, in length ; though there are fome of another {pecies, which are three and a half. Its colour is brown, variegated with deeper fhades of the fame ting; at theend of its tail is the caícabel or ratile, in the form of a garvanzo er French-bean pod, when dried on the plant, and like that has five or fix divifions, in each of which are feveral {mall round bones ; thefe, at every motion of the fnake, rattle, and thence give rife to its name. Thus nature, which has painted the coral fnake with fuch fhining colours, that it may be perceived at a diftance, has formed the jatter in fuch a manner, that, as its colours render it difficult to diftinguifh it froth the ground, the. rattle might aie notice of its ap- proach, Tue culebras de bejuco, which are ay numerous, have their name fri their colour and fhape refem- bling the branches of the bejuco, and, as they hang down from that plant, appear as real parts of the be- Juco, till a too near approach unhappily difcovers the miftake; and though their poifon be not fo active as * They are called Cobras by the natives, which is their common mame for ali kinds of ferpents.. A. that Cx. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 61 that of the others, without a fpeedy application of fome fpecific, it proves mortal. Thefe remedies are per- feGly known to the Negroes, Mulattos, and Indians frequenting the woods, ‘and called curanderos. But the fafefl antidote is the habilla, already mentioned. Ir is not, however, often that thefe dangerous fer- pents bite anyone, unlefs, from inadvertence or defign, he has been the aggreflor. Befides, they are fo far from having any extraordinary agility, that they are remarkably torpid, and, as it were, half dead; fo that, were it not for their motion in retiring to hide themfelves among the leaves, it would be difficult to determine whether they were dead or alive. Tuere are few parts of Europe which do not pro- duce the cientopies or fcolopendra; but at Carthagena they not only fwarm, but are of a monftrous fize, and the more dangerous, as breeding more commonly in houfes than in the fields. They” are generally a yard. in length,fome a yard and a quarter, the breadth about five inches, more or lefs, according to the length. Their figure is nearly circular, the back and fides co- vered with hard fcales, of a mufk colour, tinged with red ; but thefe fcales are fo articulated, as not in the leaft to impede their motion, and at the fame time fo firong as to defend them againft any blow; fo that the head is the only place where you can firike them to any purpofe. .They are alfo very nimble, and their bite, without timely application, proves mortal; nor ts the patient free from confiderable torture, till the medicine has defiroyed the malignity of the poifon. Tue alacranes, or {corpions, are not lefs common, and of different kinds, as black, red, mufk colour, and fome yellow. The firft generally breed in dry rotten wood, and others in the corners of houfes, in clofets: and cupboards. They are of different fizes, the largeft- about three inches Jong, exclufive of the tail. The fting alfo of fome is lefs dangerous than that of others; that of the black is reckoned the moft mas lignant, 62 . A VOYAGE TO Boox I. lignant, though timely care prevents its being fatal. The ftings ofthis other kinds pruduce fevers, sibimd neíles in the hands and feet, forehead, cars, nofe and lips, tumours in the tongue, and dimnefs of fight; thefe diforders la(t generally 24 or 48 hours, when, by. degrees, the patient recovers. The natives imagine, that a fcorpion falling into the water purifies it, and therefore drink it without any examination, ‘They are fo accuftomed to thefe infects, that they do not fear them, but readily lay hold of them, taking care not to touch them only in the laft vertebra of the tail, to avoid being ftung ; fometimes they cut their tails off and play with them. We more than once entertained ourfelves with an experiment of putting a {corpion into a glafs veilel, and injecting a little fmoke of tobacco, and immediately by ftopping it found that its averfion to this fmell is fuch, that it falls into the moft furious agitations, till, giving itfelf feveral - repeated fiings on the head, it finds relief by deftroy- ing itfelf. Hence we fee that its poifon has the fame effect on itfelf as on others. Here is alfo another infect called caracol foldado, or the foldier-fnail. From the middle of the body to the pofterior extremity it is fhaped like the common fail, of a whitifh colour and a fpiral form: but the other half of the body refembles a crab, both in fize and the difpofition of its claws. The colour of this, which is the principal part of its body, is oí a light brown. The ufual lenet th, exclufive of the tail, 1S. about two inches, and the breadth one and a half. It is defiitute both of {heil and fcale, and the body every where flexible. Its refource againft injuries is to feek a {nail-fhell of a proper fize, in which it takes: up its habitation. Sometimes it drags this fnail-hell with it, and at other times quits it, while it goes out in queft of food; but, on the leaft appearance of danger, it haftens back to the fhell, and thrufts itfelf into it, beginning with its hind part, fo that the fore part fills the / sx Cu. VIE. SOUTH AMERICA. 63 the entrance, while the two claws are employed in its defence, the gripe of which is attended with the fame fymptoms as the fting of a fcorpion. In both cafes the patient is carefully kept from drinking any water, which has been known to bring on convulfions; and thefe always prove fatal. | Tue inhabitants relate, that when this creature grows too large for making its way into the fhell which was its retreat, it retires to the fea-coaft, in order to find there a larger, where killing the wilk, whofe fhell beft fuits him, he takes poffeffion of it, which is indeed the fame method it took to obtain its firft habitation. This laf circumftance, and the defire of feeing: the form of fuch a creature, induced Don George Juan and mytfelf to defire the inhabitants to procure us fome ; and upon examination, we found all the above- mentioned particulars ‘were really true; except the bite, which we did not choofe to experience. - THERE are feveral other forts of infects remaining, which, though ímaller, yet afford equal reafon for ad- miration to a curious examiner; particularly the in- finite variety of maripofas, or butterflies, which, though differing vifibly in figure, colours, and deco- rations, weare at a loís to determine which is the moft beautiful. ' Ir thefe are fo entertaining to the fight, there are others no lefs troublefome; fo that it weuld be more eligible to difpenfe with the pleafure of feeing the former, than to be continually tortured by the latter ; as the mofchetos, of which large clouds may be feen, efpecially among the favannahs and manglares, or plantations of mangrove-trees, fo that the one, as affording the herbage on which they feed, and the other, as the places where they produce their young, are rendered impaffable. Tuere are four principal fpecies of this infe@: the firft called zancudos, which are the largeft; the fecond the mofchetos, differing little or nothing from thofe of 64 A VOYAGE TO Book I. of Spain * ; the third gegenes, which are veryfmall and of a different íhape, refembling the weevil, about the ~ fize of a grain of muftard-feed, and of an afh-colour. The fourth are the mantas blancas, or white cloaks, and fo very minute that the inflammation of their bite is felt before the infect that caufed it is leen. Their colour is known by the infinite numbers of them which fill the air, and from thence they had their name. From the two former, few houfes are free. Their fting is followed by a large tumour, the pain of which continues about two hours. The two laft, which chiefly frequent fields and gardens, raife no tumour, but caufe an infupportable itching. Thus, if the ex- treme heat renders the day troublefome, thefe imper- ceptible infects difturb the repofe of the night. And though the mofquiteros, a kind of gauze curtains, in fome meafure defend us from the three former, they: are no fafeguard againft the latter, which make their way between the threads; unlefs the ftuff be of a. clofer texture, in which cafe the heat becomes infup= portable. Tue infect of Carthagena called nigua, and in Pera pique, is fhaped like a flea, but almoft too fmall for fight. Itis a great happinefs that its legs have not the elafticity with thofe of fleas; for, could this infe& leap, every animal body would be filled with them; and, confequently, both the brute and human {pecies: be foon extirpated by the multitudes of thefe mfects. They live amongft the duft, and therefore are moft common tn filthy places, They infinuate themfelves into the legs, the foles of the feet, or toes, and pterce the (kin with fuch fubtilty, that oares is no being aware of them, till they have made their way into the ‘fleth +. If they are perceived at the beginning, they are ex-_ tracted with little pain; but if the.head only has * Or the gnat of England. A. $ They feldom infinuate themfelves, into the legs. A. pierced Ch. VIL. SOUTH AMERICA. 6 pierced through the fkin, an incifion muft be made before it can be taken out. If they are not foon per- ceived, they make their way through the fkin, and take up their lodging between that and the membrane of the flefh; and fucking the blood, form a nidus ot - neft, covered with a white and fine tegument, refem- bling a flat pearl; and the infect is, as it were, in- chafed in one of the faces, with its head and feet out- wards, for the convenience of feeding, while the hinder part of the body is within the tunic, where it depofits its eggs ; ana as the number of thefe increafes, the nidus enlarges, even to the diameter of a Jine and a half, or two lines, to which magnitude it generally attains in four or five days. There is an abtolute ne- ceffity for extraéting it; for otherwife it would burít of itfelf, and by that means fcatter an infinite number of germs, refembling nits, in fize, fhape, and colour, which becoming niguas, would, as it were, undermine the whole foot. ‘They caufe an extreme pain, efpe- cially during the operation of extracting them ; for fometimes they penetrate even to the bone; and the pain, even after the foot is cleared of them, lafts till the fleíh has filled up the cavities they had ‘tiie and the {kin is again clofed. Tue manner of performing this operation is both tedious and troublefome; the flefh contiguous to the membrane, where the eggs of the infect are lodged, is feparated with the point of a needle, and thofe eggs fo tenacioufly adhere to the flefh and this membrane, that, to complete the operation without buríting the tegument, and putting the patient to the moft acute pain, requires the greateft dexterity. After feparating on every fide the tmall and almoft imperceptible fibres, by which it was fo clofely connected with the membranes and mufcles of the part, the perilla, as they term it, is extracted, the dimenfions of which are proportional to the time it has exifted. If unfortu- nately it fhould burft, the greateft care muft be ufed Von. I. E to Ap 66 A VOYAGE TO Boox 1. clear away all the roots, particularly not to leave the principal nigua ; as, before the wound could be healed, there would be a new brood, further within the flefh; and confequently the cure much more dificult and painful. Tue cavity left by the removal of the nidus,- mutt be immediately filled either with tobacco afhes, chewed tobacco, or fnuff; and, in hot countries, as Carifagena, great care muft be taken not to wet the foot for the firft two days, as convulfions would enfue; a diftemper feldom got over: this confequence has poflibly been obferved i in. fome, and from-thence confidered as general *. if Tse firft + entrance of this infect 4 is attended with no - fenfible pain; but, the next day, it brings on a fiery itching, extremely painful, but more fo in forme parts than in others, This is the cafe in extracting it, when ‘the infect gets between the nails and the flefh, or at the extremity of the toes. In the fole of the fut, and other parts where the {kin is callous, they caufe little or no pain. Tmis infect. fhews an Pailin hatred to fome. animals, particularly the hog; which it preys on with fuch vor acity , that when their feet come to be fcalded, after being til Hed, e are found full of cavities made by this corroding infect A ~ Mixure as this éredture is, there are two kinds SE it; one venomous, and the other not. ‘The latter perfectly refembles the flea in colour, and gives a whiteneís to the membrane where it depofits its eggs. This caufes no pain, but what is common in fuch cafes. The former is ycllowith, its nidus of an afh- colour, and its effects more extraordinary ; ; as, when lodged at the extremity of the toes, it violently i n= * There is no neceffity for this precaution, as is well known to the honeft tar. The tobacco afhes, &c. entirely deftroy the nits or ovaria, if any be left. A, . flanes €a.vil. sOUTH AMERICA. © . & flames the glands of the groin, and the pain contiaues, without abatement, till the nigua is extradted, that being the only remedy ; after which, the fwelling fub- fides, and the pain ceafes, thofe glands correfponding with the foot, where the caufe of the pain refided. The true caufe of this apparently ftrange effect I fhall not andertake to inveftigate; the general opinion is, that fome fmall mufcles extending from thote glands to the feet, being affected by the poifon of the bite, communicate it to the glands, whence proceed the pain and inflammation. All I can affirm is, that I have often experienced it, and at firft with no fmall concern; till having frequently obferved, that thefe efteis ceafed on extracting the nigua, I thence con- cluded it to be the true caufe of the diforder. ‘The fame thing happened to all the French academicians, who accompanied us in this expedition, and particu- larly to M. de Juffieu, botanift tc the king of France, whom frequent experience of ihefe kinds of accidents - taught to divide thefe infects into two kinds. As the preceding animals and infects chiefly exer- cife their malignant qualities on the human fpecies, fo there ate others which damage and defiroy the furni- ‘ture of houles, particularly all kinds of hangings, whether of cloth, linen, filk, gold or filver ftuffs, or laces; and indeed every thing, except thofe of folid metal, where their voracity feems to bé wearied out by the refiftance. ‘This infeét, called comegen, is no- thing more than a kind of moth or maggot; but fo expeditious in its depredations, that in a very fhort time it entirely reduces to duft one or more bales of merchandife where it happens to faften ; and, without altering the form, perforates it through and through, with a fubtility which is not perceived till it comes to be handled, and then, inftead of thick cloth or linen, one finds only fmall fhreds and duft. At all times the ftricteft attention is requifite to prevent fuch acci- dents, but chiefly at the arrival of the galleons; for Pa then * A\ 68 A VOYAGE TO — Boox E then it may do immenfe damage among the vaft quan- tity of goods landed for warehoufes, and for fale in | the fhops. The beft, and indeed the only method, is, — to lay the bales on benches, about half a yard from the ground, and to cover the feet of them with alqui- tran, or naphtha, the only prefervative againíi this fpe- cies of vermin; for, with regard to wood, it eats into that as eafily as into the goods, but will not come near it when covered with naphtha as above. Ne1rHer would this precaution be fufficient for the fafety of the goods, without a method of keeping them from touching the walls; and then they are fuf- ficiently fecured. ‘This infect is fo fmall, as to be {carcely vifible to the naked eye; but of fuch activity, as to deftroy all the goods in a warehoufe, where it has got footing, in one night’s time. Accordingly it is ufual that in running the rifks of commerce, in goods configned to Carthagena, the circumftances are {pecified, and in theíe are underftood to be included the loffes that may happen in that city by the come- gen. This infect infefis neither Porto Bello, nor even places nearer Carthagena, though they have fo many other things in common with that city; nor is it fo much as known among them. Whar has been faid, will, I hope, be fufficient to * give an adequate idea of this country, without fwell- ing the work with trivial obfervations, or fuch as have been already publifhed by others. We fhall now proceed to treat diftindtly of other equally wonderful works of Omnipotence, in this country. CHAP. Cu. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 69 CHAP... VIEL Of the efculent Vegetables produced in the Terri- tories of Carthagena, and the Food of the In- habitants of that City. FISHOUGH Carthagena has not the convenience of being furnithed by its foil with the different kinds of European vegetables, it does not want for others, far from being contemptible, and of which the inhabitants eat with pleafure. Even the Europeans, who at their firft coming cannot eafily take up with them, are not long before they like them fo well as to forget thofe of their own country. Tue confiant moifture and heat of this climate will not admit of barley, wheat, and other grain of that kind; but produces excellent maize and rice in fuch abundance, that a bufhel of maize, fown, ufually produces an hundred, at harvett. From this grain they make the bollo, or bread, ufed in all this coun- try; they alfo ufe it in feeding hogs and fattening poultry. The maize bollo has no refemblance to the bread made of wheat, either in fhape or tafte. It is made in form of a cake; is of a white colour, and an infipid tafte. The method of making it is, to foak the maize, and afterwards bruife it between two ftones ; it 1s then put into large bins filled with water, where, by rubbing and fhilting it from one veffel into another, they clear it from its huík; after this it is ground into a paíte, of which the bollos are made. Thefe bollos, being wrapped up in plantane or vijahua leaves, are boiled in water, and ufed as bread; but, after twenty-four hours, become tough and of a difagreeable tafte. In families of diftinétion the en is kneaded with milk, which greatly improves ; but, being not thoroughly penetrated by the li- hna s, it never rifes, nor changes its natural colour ; 3 fo 7 1 ; he A VOYAGE TO Boox I. fo that, inftead of a pleafing tafte, it has only that of the flour of maize. ; Bestpes the bollo *. here is alfo the cafava bread; very common among the Negroes, made from the roots of yuca, names, and moniatos. After carefully taking off the upper {kin of the roof, they grate it, and fleep it in water, in order to free it from a ftrong acrid j juice, which is a real poifon, particularly that of the moniato. The water being feveral times fhifted, that nothing of this acrimony may remain, the dough is made into round cakes, about two feet diameter, and about three or four po in thicknefs. Thefe cakes are baked in ovens, on plates of copper, or a kind of brick made for that purpofe. It is a nou- : ‘rifhing and ftrengihening food, but very infipid. It will keep fo well, that at the dnd of two months it has the fame talle as the firft day, except being more dry. WheEar bread is not entirely uncommon at Car-: thagena; but, as the flour comes from Spain, the price of it may well be conceived to be above the reach of the generality. Accordingly it is ufed only by the Europeans fettled at Carthagena, and fome few Creoles; and by thefe only with their chocolate and conterves. At all other meals, fo ftrong is the force of a cuftom imbibed in their infancy, they prefer, bollos to wheat bread, and eat honey with cafava. Tuey alfo make, of the flour of maize, feveral kinds of pafiry, and a variety of foods equally pala- table and wholeíome; bollo itfelf being never known to difagrec with thofe who ufe it. Besipes thefe roots, the foil produces silenty of camiotes, refembling, in tafie, Malaga potatocs; but fomething different in fhape,’ the camiotes being ge- * Or cake made of mandioc yams, and fweet potatoes (or ca- miotes), which they grate and mix together, The bollo is far from infipid, when a proper quantity of the camiote is put in. A. nerally whee ~ ; Cu. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 71 nerally roundifh and uneven. They are both pickled and ufed as roots with the meat; but, confidering. the goodneís and plenty of this root, they do not im- prove it as they might. | PLANTATIONS of fugar-canes abound to such a de- gree, as extremely to lower the price of honey ; and . a great part of ihe juice of thefe canes is converted into’ {pirit for the difpofing of tt) "E hey grow fo quick as to be cut twiceina year. ‘he variety of their ver- dure is á beautiful ornament to the country. Here are alfo great numbers of cotton-trees, fome planted and daitivated: and thefe are the belt ; others {pontaneoufly produced by ihe great fertility Of the country. The cotton of both is fpun, and made into feveral forts of fiuffs, which are worn by the Negroes of the Haciendas, and the country Indians. Cacao trees alfo grow in great plenty on the banks of the river Magdalena, and in other fituations which that tree delights in; but thofe in the juriídiétion of Carthagena excel thofe of the Caracas, Maracaybo, Guayaquil, arid other parts, both in fizeand the good- nefs of the fruit. The Carthagena cacao or chocolate is little known in Spain, being only fent as prefents ; : for, asit is more efteemed than ne cee other coun- tries, the greater part of it is confumed in this jurifdic- tion, or fent to other patts of America. I is alfo im- orted from the Caracas, and fent up the country, that of the Magdalena not being cita to aníwer the great demand there is for it in thefe parts. Nor is it amifs to mix the former with the latter, as correcting the extreme oilinefs of the chocolate, when made only with the cacao of the Magdalena. The latter, by way of diftinétion from the former, is fold at Car- thagena by millares, whereas the former is difpofed of by the bufhel, Gach weighing 110 pounds; but that of Maracaybo weighs only 96 pounds. This is the moft valuable ieahive which nature could have beftowed on this country ; though it has carried its BA bounty 72 A VOYAGE TO "Book I. bounty 1ti1l farther, in adding a vaft number of. deli- cious fruits which evidently difplay the exuberance of the foil. Nothing ftrikes a fpectator with greater ad- miration, than to fee {uch a variety of pompous trees, © in a manner emulating each other, through the whole year, in producing the. moft beautiful and delicious fruits. Some refemble thofe of Spam; others are peculiar to the country. Among the former, fome are indeed cultivated, the latter flourifh fpontane- oully. Those of the fame kind with the Spanith fruits are melons, water-melons, called by the natives Blanciac, grapes, oranges, medlars, and dates. The grapes are not equal to thofe of Spain; but the medlars as far exceed them: with regard to the reft, there is no great difference. AMONG the fruits peculiar to the country, the pre- ference, doubtlefs, helongs to the pine-apple ; and ac- cordingly its beauty, fmell, and tafte, have acquired it the appellation of queen of fruits. The others are the papayas, guanabanas, guayabas, fapotes, mameis, platanos, cocos, and many others, which it would be tedious to enumerate, efpecially as thefe are the prin- cipal ; and therefore it will be fufíicient to confine our defcriptions to them. The ananas or pine-apple, fo called from its refem- bling the fruit or the cones of the European pine-tree, is produced by a plant nearly refembling the aloe, ex- cept that the leaves of the pine-apple are longer, but not fo thick, and moft of them ftand near the ground 10 a horizontal pofition; but as they approach nearer the fruit, they diminith in length, and become lefs ex- panded. This plant.feldom grows to above three feet in height, and terminates ina flower refembling a lily, but of fo elegant a crimfon, as even to dazzle the eye. The pine-apple makes its firft appearance in the centre of the flower, about the fize of a nut ; and as this in- creafes, the lufire of the flower fades, and the leaves expand Ch. Vif. SOUTH AMERICA. — 73 expand themfelves to make room for it, and fecure it both as a bafe and ornament. On the top of the apple itfelf, is a crown or tuft of leaves, like thofe of the plant, and of a very.lively green. ‘This crown grows in proportion with the fruit, till both have attained their utmoft magnitude, and hitherto they differ very little in colour. But as foon as the crown ceafes to grow, the fruit begins to ripen, and its green'changes to a bright ftraw colour; during this gradual altera- tion of ‘colour, the fruit exhales fuch a fragrancy as difcovers it, though concealed from fight. While it continues to grow, it fhoots forth on all fides little thorns, which, as it approaches towards maturity, dry and foften, fo that the fruit is gathered without the leaft inconvenience. The fingularities which. con- centre in this product of nature, cannot fail of ftrik- ing a contemplative mind with admiration. The crown, which was to it a kind of apex, while growing in the woods, becomes itfelt, when fown, a new plant; and the (tem, after the fruit is cut, dies away, as if fa- tisfied with having anfwered the intention of nature in fuch a product; but the roots fhoot forth freth (talks, for the farther increafe of fo valuable a fpecies. Tue pine-apple, though feparated from the plant, retains its fragrancy for a confiderable time, when it begins to decay. The odour of it not only fills the apartment where the fruit is kept, but even extends to the contignous rooms. ‘The general length of this delicious fruit is from five to feven inches, and the diameter near its bafis three or four, diminifhing re- gularly, as it approaches to its apex. For eating, it is peeled and cut into round flices, and. is fo full of juice, that it entirely diffolves in the mouth. Its flavour is {weet, blended with a delightful acidity. The rind, infufed in water, after a proper fermenta- tion, produces a very cooling liquor, and ftill retains all the properties of the fruit. * | Tae . a4 + «A VOYAGE TO. - Boox 1. Tue other fruits of this country are equally valu- able in their feveral kinds; and fome of them alfo dif- tinguifhed for their fragrancy, as the guayaba, which is, befides,; both pectoral and aftringent. , Tre moft common of all are, the platanos, the name of which, if not its figure and tafte, is known in all parts of Europe *. Thefe are of three kinds. The firft is the banana, which is lo large as to want but little of a footin length. Thefe are greatly ufed, being not only eaten as bread, but alfo an ingredient in many made difhes. Both the ftone and kernel are very hard; but the latter has no noxious quality. The | . fecond kind are the dominicos, which are neither fo long nor fo large as the bananas, but of a better tafte; they are ufed assthe former. Tue third kind are the guineos, lefs than either of the former, but far more palatable, though not rec- koned 8) wholefome by the natives, on account of their fuppofed heat. They feldom exceed foun inches in length; and their rind, when ripe, is yellower, {moother, and brighter, Hah that of the two other kinds. The euftom of the country is to drink water after eating them; but the European failors, who will not be confined in their diet, but drink brandy with every thing they eat, make no difference between this fruit and any other; and to this intemperance may, in’ fome meafure, be attributed the many difeafes with which they are attacked in this country, and not a few fudden deaths; which are, indeed, apt to raife, in the furvivors, concern for their companions for the pre-- * The plantane and banana are, I believe, little known in Europe by name. The firft two forts the Author defcribes, are better known by the names of the long and fhort plantane, and the laft by the name of banana, than by thofe he has given them. They have nei- ther ftone nor kernel, but a very fmall feed, as fmalkas that of thyme, which lies in the Fait in rows like that of a cucumber, to which the banana bears the greateft refemblance of any thing in England; only - it is Ímooth and not fo la: ree A, fent ; \ Cu. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 56 fent; but they foon return to the fame exceffes, not remembering, or rather choofing to forget, the me- lancholy confequences. By what we could difcover, it is not the quality of _ the brandy which proves fo pernicious, but the quan- tity; fome of our company making the experiment of drinking {paringly of this liquor after eating the gui- neos, and repeating it feveral times without the leatft inconvenience. One method of drefling them, among feveral others, is to roaít them in de rind, and afterwards flice them, adding a little brandy and fugar to give thema firmneís. In this manner we had them every day at our table, and the Creoles themfeives ap- proved of them. Tue papayas are from fix to eight inches in length, and refemble a lemon, except that towards the ftalk they are fomewhat lefs than at the other extremity. Their rind is green, the pulp white, very juicy, but firingy, and the tafte a gentle acid, not pungent. This is the fruit of a tree, and not, like the pine-apple and platano, the product of a plant. The guayaba and the following are alfo the fruit of trees. THe guanabana approaches very near the melon, but its rind is much fmoother, and of a greenith co- lour. Its pulp is of a yellowith caft, like that of tome melons, and not very different in talle. But the greateft diftinction between thefe two fruits is a nau- feous fmell in the guanaba. The feed is round, of - a fhining dark colour, and about two lines in diameter. It confifts of a very fine tranfparent pellicle, and a kernel folid and juicy. The fmell of this little feed is much fironger and more nauieous. The natives fay, that, by eating this feed, nothing is to be apprehended from the food which is otherwife accounted heavy and hard of digefiion ; but, though the feed has no ill tafte, the ftomach is drena at its {mell. Tue fapotes are round, about two inches in circum- _ ference, the rind thin and eafily feparated from the fruit ; \ 26 A VOYAGE TO Book I. fruit; the colour brown, ftreaked with red. The tleíh is of a bright red, with little juice, vifcid, fibrous, and compact. It cannot be clafled among delicious fruits, though its tafte is not difagreeable. It con- tains a few feeds, which are hard and oblong. Tue mameis are of the fame colour with the fapotes, * except that the brown is fomething lighter. Their rind alfo requires the affiftance of a knife, to feparate it. The fruit is very much like the brunion plum, } but more folid, lefs juicy, and, in colour, more lively. The fione’is proportionc d to the largenefs of the fruit, which is betwixt. three and four inches in Aster almoft circular, but with fome irregularities. The ftone is an inch anda half in length, and its breadth in the middle, where it is round,i one inch. Its externa! furface is fmooth, and of a brown colour, except on ene fide, where it is: vertically croffed by a fireak refembling the flice of a melon in colour ae fhape. This rok has neither the hardnefs nor’ {moothnefs of the reft of the furface of the ftone, which feems in this place covered and fomething fcabrous, THE coco is.a very common fruit, and but little efeemed ; all the ufe made of it being to drink the juice whilft fluid, before it begins to curdle. It is, when firft gathered, full of a whitifh liquor, as fluid as water, very plcafant and refrefhing. The thell which covers the coco nut, is green on the outfide, and white within; fall of firong fibres, traverfing it on all fides in a longitudinal direction, but eafily ie- parated with a knife.. The coco is alfo whitith at that time, and not hard; but, as the confiltency. of its pulp increafes, the green e of its fhell dege- nerates into yellow. As foon as the kernel has at- tained its maturity, this dries and changes to brown; then becomes fibrous, and fo compact, as not to be eafily opened and feparated from the coco, to which iome of thofe fibres adhere. From the pulp of thefe cocos . Cu. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. ae cocos is drawn a milk like that of almonds, and at Carthagena is ufed in drefling rice. Tuoveu lemons, of the kind generally known in Europe, and of which fuch quantities are gathered in fome parts of Spain, are very fcarce ; yet there are fuch numbers of another kind, called futiles or limes, that the country is, in a manner, covered with the trees that _ produce them, without care or culture. But the tree and its fruit are both much lefs than thofe of Spain, the height of the former feldom exceeding eight or ten feet; and from the bottom, or a litle above, divides into feveral branches, whofe regular expanfion forms a very beautiful tuft. The leaf, which is of the fame fhape with that of the European lemon, is lefs, but {moother ; the fruit does not exceed a common egg in magnitude; the riad very thin ; and it is more juicy, in proportion, than the lemon of Europe, and infinitely more pungent and acid ; on which account the Euro- pean phyficians pronounce it detrimental to health; though, in this country, it is a general ingredient in their made difhes. ‘There is one fingular ufe to which this fruit is applied in cookery. It is a cuftom with the inhabitants not to lay their meat down to the fire above an hour at farthefi, before dinner or fupper ; this is managed by fteeping it for fome time in the juice of thefe limes, or fqueezing'three or four, ac- cording to the quantity of meat, into the water, if they intend boiling ; by which means the fleíh becomes fo foftened as to admit of being thoroughly drefled in this Short fpace. The people here value themfelves-highly on this preparative, and laugh at the Europeans for ~fpending a morning about what they difpatch fo ex- peditioufly. Tuts country abounds in tamarinds; a large branchy tree, the leaf of a deep green; the pods of a middle fize, and flat; the pulp of a dark brown, a pleafant tafte, very fibrous, and is called by the fame name as the tree itfelf. In the middle of the pulp is a hard feed, ; 78 A VOYÁGE TO Boox I. feed, or flone, fix or eight lines in length, to two in readth. Its tafte is an acid fwectnefs, but the acid ptccominates 3, and it is only ufed when diffolved in water as a cooling liquor, and then but moderately, and not for many days fucceflively ; its acidity and extreme coldneís weakening and debilitating the fto- mach. ANOTHER fruit, called mani, is produced by a ímall plant. It is of the fize and fhape of a pine- cone; and eaten cither roafted, or asaconferve. Its’ quality is direcily oppofite to that of the former, being hot in the higheft degree ;.and, confequently, not very wholetome 1 in this cima. Tue products which are not natural here, befides wheat, barley, and other grain, are grapes, almonds, and ca confequently the country is deftitute of wine, oil, and raiiins, with which they are fupplied from Europe: this neceflarily renders them very dear; fometimes they are not to be ial at any price. When this is the cafe with regard to wine, great numbers fuffer in their health; for, as all:thofe who do not ac- cufiont themíelves to drink brandy at their meals, — which are far the greater number, except the Negroes, being ufed to this wine, their flomach, for want of it, lofes the digeftive faculty, and. thence are produced epidemical diftempers. This was an unhappy etre cumftance at our arrival, when wine was lo extremely fearce, that maís was faid only in one church. Tae want of oil is much more tolerable; for, im dreffing either fifth or ficíh, they ufe hog’s lard, of which they have fo great a quantity, as to make it an ingredient in their ‘fou; p, which is very good, and, confidering the cone not at all dear: inftead of lamps too, they ufe tallow.candles.: fo that they want oil only for their falads. From. fuch plenty of flefh, fowl, and fruits, an idea may be formed of the luxtirianey of the tables in this country ; and, indeed, in the houfes of per- fons \ / Cu. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 79 fons of wealth and diflinétion, they are ferved with the greateft decency and fplendour. Mofi of the difhes are dreffed in the manner of this country, and _ differ confiderably from thofe of Spain; but fome of them are fo delicate, that foreigners are no lefs pleafed with them, than the gentlemen of thecountry. One of their favourite difhes is the agi-aco, there being fearcely a genteel table without it. It is a mixture of feveral jngredients, which cannot fail of making an excellent ragout. It confifts of pork fried, birds of feveral kinds, plantanes, maize patfte, and feveral other things highly feafoned with what call pimento, Obie 4007 Tue inhabitants of any figure generally make two meals a-day, befides another light repaft. That in the morning, their breakfaft, is generally compofed of fome fried difh, paftry of maize flour, and things of that nature, followed by chocolate. Their dinner acera of a much greater variety; but at night the regale is only of fweetmeats and chocolate. Some idles: indeed, affect the European cuftom of hav- ing regular fuppers, though they are generally looked upon ‘ae Carthagena as detritaéntal ES health. We found, however, no difference as to ourfelves; and poffibly the ill effects flow from excefs in the other meals, TLAP.. EX. a Of the Trade of Carthagena, and other Countries - of America, on the Arrival of the Gulléons and _ other Spanifh Ships. a ‘HE bay of Carthagena is the firft place in Ametica at which the galleons are allowed to touch; and thus it enjoys the firft fruits of commerce, . by al 80 A VOYAGE TO en by the public fales made there, Thefe fales, though not accompanied with the formalities obferved at Porto Bello fair, are very confiderable. The traders Of the inland provinees of Santa Fe, Popayan, and Quito, lay out not only their own ftocks, but alfo the monies intrufted to them by commiffions, for feveral forts of goods, and thofe fpecies of provifions which are moft wanted in their refpective countries. The two provinces of Santa Fe and Popayan have no other way of fupplying themfelves with the latter, than from Carthagena. Their traders bring gold and filver in fpecie, ingots, aad duft, and alfo emeralds; as, be- fides the filver mines worked at Santa Fe, and which daily increafe by freíh difcoveries, there are others which yield the fineft emeralds. But the value of thefe gems being now fallen in Europe, and. particu- Jarly in Spain, the trade of them, formerly fo confi- derable, is now greatly leffened, and confequently the reward for finding them. All thefe mines produce great quantities of gold, which is carried to Choco, and there pays one fifth to the king, at an oftice erected for that purpote. This commerce was for fome years prohibited, at the folicitation of the merchants of Lima, who com- plained of the great damages they fuftained by the tranfportation of European merchandifes from Quito to Peru; which being thus furnithed, while the traders of Lima were employed at the fairs of Panama and Porto Bello, at their return, they found, to their great lofs, the price of goods very much lowered. But it being mada poesia ‘d, that reftraining the robes of Quito and other placesifrom purchaling goods at Carthagena, on the arrival of the gallcons, was of great detriment to ‘iofe provinces; it was ordered, gf regard to both parties, that, on notice being given in “thofe provinces, of the arrival of the galleons at Carthagena, all commerce, with regard to _ European commodities; fhould ceafe between Quito : and Cu. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 81 and Lima, and that the limits of the two audiences fhould be thofe of their commerce : thatis, that Quito fhould not trade beyond the territories of Loja and Zamora; nor Lima, beyond thofe of Piura, one of the jurifdictions of its audience. By this equitable expe- dient, thofe provinces were, in time, fupplied with the goods they wanted, without any detriment to the trade of Peru. This regulation was firft executed in 1730, on the arrival of the fquadron commanded by Don Manuel Lopez Pintado, who had orders, from the king, to place commerce on this footing, provided it bid | fair to anfwer the intentions of Cots parties, and that no better expedient could be found. Accordingly this was carried into execution; being not only well adapted to the principal end, but alfo, during the ftay of the galleons at Carthagena, procured bufinefs for the Cargadores *, in the fate of their goods; and thus made themtelves ample amends for their expenfes. DurixG the prohibition, the merchants of Cartha- gena were obliged. to have recouríe to the Flotila of Peru, in their courfe from Guayaquil to Panama ; or to wait the return of the galleons to Carthagena, and, confequently, purchafe only the refufe of Porto Bello fair; both which were, doubtlefs, confiderable griev- ances to them. If they purfued the firft, they were obliged to travel acrofs the whole jurifdiction of Santa Fe to Guayaquil, which was a journey of above four hundred leagues, with confiderable fums of money, which having difpofed of in merchandifes, the charges of their return were ftill greater. In fine, the loffes inevitable in fuch a long journey, where rapid rivers, mountains, and bridges, were to be crofled, and their merchandifes expofed to a thoufand accidents, ren- dered this method utterly impracticable; fo that they were obliged to content themtelves with the remains of the fair; though it was very uncertain whether * Perfons who bring European goods for fale, Vor. I. G thefe O A VOYAGE TO Boox I. thefe would be fufficient to anfwer the demand. Be- fides, the inland merchants ran the hazard of not meet- ing at Carthagena with goods fufficient, in quality and quantity, to aníwer their charges ; and were fome- times actually obliged to return with the money, and the vexation of a fruitlefs, though expenfive, journey. Thefe inconveniences produced a repeal of the pro- hibition, and commerce was placed on the prefent equitable footing. This little fair at Carthagena, for fo it may be called, occafions a great quantity of fhops to be opened, and filled with all kinds of merchandife ; the profit partly refulting to Spaniards who come in the galleons, and are either recommended to, or are in partnerfhip with, the Cargadores ; and partly to thofe already fettled in that city. The Cargadores furnith the former with goods, though to no great value, in order to gain their cuflom; and the latter, as perfons whom they have already experienced to be good men ; and both in proportion to the quicknefs of their fale. This is a time of univerfal profit; to fome by letting lodgings and fhops, to fome by the increafe of. their refpective trades, and to others by the labour of their Negro flaves, whofe pay alfo is proportionally in- created, as they do more work in this bufy time. By this brifk circulation through all the feveral ranks, they frequently get a furplus of money beyond what is fufficient for providing themfelves with neceflaries. And it is not uncommon for flaves, out of their fav- ings, and after paying their mafters the daily tribute, to purchafe their freedoms. This affluence extends to the neighbouring villages, eftancias, and the moft wretched chacaras, of this ju- rifaiction ; for, by the increafe of firangers to a fourth, third, and fometimes one half, of the ufual number of people, the confumption, and confequently the price of provifions, advances, which is, of courfe, no {mall advantage to thofe who bring them to market. 3 | | Yon O Cu. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 83 Tus commercial tumult lafts while the galleons continue in the bay : for they are no fooner gone, than filence and tranquillity refume their former place. This the inhabitants of Carthagena call tiempo mu- erto, the dead time; for, with regard to the trade car- ried on with the other governments, it is not worth notice. ‘The greater part of it confifts in fome bi- landers from La Trinidad, the Havannah, and St. Do- mingo, bringing leaf-tobacco, {nuff, and fugars; and returning with Magdalena cacao, earthen-ware, rice, and other goods wanted in thofe iflands. And even of thefe {mall veffels, {carcely one is feen for two or three months. The fame may be faid of thofe which go from Carthagena to Nicaragua, Vera-Cruz, Hondu- ras, and other parts; but the moft frequent trips are made to Porto Bello, Chagra, or Santa Martha. The reafon why this commerce is not carried on more brifkly is, that moft of thefe places are naturally pro- vided with the fame kind of provifions; and confe- quently are under no neceffity of trafficking with _each other. ANOTHER branch of the commerce of Carthagena, during the tiempo muerto, is carried on with the towns and villages of its jurifdiction, from whence are brought all kinds of neceffaries and even the luxuries of life, as maize, rice, cotton, live hogs, tobacco, _ plantanes, birds, cafava, fugar, honey, and cacao, moft of which is brought in canoes and champanas, a fort of boats proper for rivers. ‘The former are a kind of coafters, and the latter come from the rivers Magda- lena, Sinu, and others. Their returns confift of goods for apparel, with which the fhops and warehoufes furnifh themíelves from the galleons, or from prizes taken on the coaft by the king’s frigates, or privateers. No eatable pays any duty to the king; and every perfon may, in his own houfe, kill any number of pigs he thinks he fhall fell that day; no falted pork is eaten, becaule it is foon corrupted by the exceflive G 2 heat 84 A VOYAGE TO Book I. heat of the place. All imports from Spain, as brandy, wine, oil, almonds, raifins, pay a duty, and are after- wards fold without any farther charge, except what is paid by retailers, as a tax for their fhop or ftall. Bzsipzs thefe goods, which keep alive this flender inland commerce, here is an office for the affiento of Negroes, whither they are brought, and, as it were, kept as pledges, till fuch perfons as want them on their eftates come to purchafe them; Negroes being gene- rally employed in hufbandry and other laborious coun- Ary works. This indeed gives fome life to the trade of Carthagena, though it is no weighty article. The produce of the royal revenues in this city not being fufficient to pay and fupport the governor, garrifon, and a great number of other officers, the deficiency is remitted from the treafurers of Santa Fe and Quito, under the name of Situado, together with fuch monies as are requifite for keeping up the fortifications, fur- nifhing the artillery, and other expenfes, neceflary for the defence of the place and its forts. BOOK Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 3% BOOK II. Voyage from Carthagena to Porto Bello. Crane 7: General Winds and Currents between Carthagena and Porto Bello. HEN the French frigate had watered, and was ready for failing, we embarked on board her, on the 24th of November 1735; the next day we put to fea, and on the zgth of the fame month, at half an hour after five in the evening, came to an anchor at the mouth of Porto Bello harbour, in fourteen fathom water; Caftle Todo Fierro, or the iron cattle, bearing N. E. four degrees northerly ; and the fouth point of the harbour eaft one quarter northerly. The difference of longitude between Carthagena and Punta de Nave, we found to be 4° 24. We had fteered W. N. W. and W. one quarter northerly, till the (hip was obferved to be in the ele- venth degree of latitude, when we ftood to the weft. But when our difference of longitude from Carthagena was 3° 10’, we altered our courfe to 5. W. and S. a quarter wefterly, which, as already obferved, on the 29th of November, at 5 in the evening, brought us in fight of Punta de Nave, which being fouth of us, we were obliged to make feveral tacks before we could get into the harbour. In this paflage we met with freíh gales. ‘The two firft days at north quarter eafterly, and the other days till we made the land at N. E.; a high fea running the es whole 86 A VOYAGE TO Boox II. whole time. But we were no fooner in fight of Punta de Nave, than it became calm, and a breeze from the land fprung up, which hindered us from getting that day into the harbour. It alío continued contrary on the 30th; but by the help of our oars, and being towed, we got at laft to the anchoring- place, where ~ we went on fhore, with our baggage and inftruments neceffary for beginning our obiervations. But this being the moft proper place for mentioning the winds which prevail in this paflage, along the coaft, and that of Carthagena, we fhall beftow fome paragraphs on them. THERE are two forts of general winds on thefe coafts; the one called brifas, which blow from the N.E. and the other called vendabales, which come from the W. and W.S. W. The former fet in about the middle of November, but are not fettled till the be- ginning or middle of December, which is here the íummer, and continue blowing frefh and invariable till the middle of May; they then ceafe, and are fuc- ceeded by the vendabales, but with this difference, that theíe do not extend farther than 12 or 124 degrees of latitude ; beyond which the brifas confiantly reign, though with different degrees of firength, and veer fometimes to the eaft, and at other times to the north. Tue feafon of the vendabales is attended with vio- lent ftorms of wind and rain; but they are foon over, and fucceeded by a calm equally tranfitory ; for the wind gradually frefhens, efpecially near the land, where thefe phenomena are more frequent. The fame happens at the end of October and beginning of No- vember, the general winds not being fettled. In the feafon of the brifas, the currents as far as 12° or 12° 30 of latitude, fet to the weftward, but with lefs velocity than ufual at the changes of the moon, and greater at the full. But beyond that latitude, they ufually fet N. W. Though this muft not be under- fiood without exception ; 3 as, for inftance, near iflands or Cx. I SOUTH AMERICA. __ 87 or Bate: their courfe becomes irregular : fometimes they flow through long channels ; and fometimes they are met by others ; all which proceeds from their fe- veral directions, and the bearings of the coafis; fo that the greateft attention is neceffary here, the general accounts not being fufficient ta. be relied on; for, though they have been given by pilots who have for twenty or thirty years ufed this navigation, in all kinds of veffels, and therefore have acquired a thorough knowledge, they themfelves confeís that there are places where the currents obferve no kind of regula- rity, like thofe we have mentioned. When the brifas draw near their period, which is about the beginning of April, the currents change their courfe, running to the eaftward for eight, ten, or iweive leagues from the coaft, and thus continue during the whole feafon of the vendabales; on which account, and the winds being at this feafon contrary for going from Carthagena to Porto Bello, it is necetf- fary to fail to 12 or 13 degrees of latitude, or even fonietimes farther; when, being without the verge of thofe winds, the voyage is eafily performed. . Wuitte the brifas blow ftrongeft, a very impetuous current fets into the gulf of Darien; and out of it _ during the feafon of the vendabales. This fecond change preceeds from the many rivers which difcharge themielves into it, and at that time being greatly {welled by the heavy rains, peculiar to the feafon; fo that they come down with fuch rapidity, as violently to propel the water out of the gulf. But in the fea- fon of the brifas thefe rivers are low, and fo weak, that the current of the fea overcomes their refiftance, fills the gulf, and returns along the windings of the coaft, Cay. CHAP, 88 A VOYAGE TO Boor Il. CHAP. II. Defcription of the Town of St. Philip de Porto Bello. HE town of St. Philip de Porto Bello, according to our obfervations, ftands in 9° 34” 35” north la- titude; and by the obfervations of father Feuillée, in the longitude of 277° 50° from the meridian of Paris, and 296° 41’ from the Pico of Teneriffe. This har- bour was difcovered on the 2d of November 1502 by Chriftopher Columbus, who was fo charmed with its extent, depth, and fecurity, that he gave it the name of Porto Bello, or the fine harbour. In the profecution of his difcoveries, he arrived at that which he called | Baftimentos, where, in 1510, was founded by Dicgo de Niqueza the city of Nombre de Dios, “the name “© of God;” fo called from the commander having {aid to his people on his landing, “ Here we will make <“ a fettlement in the name of God,” which was ac- cordingly executed. But this place was, in its infancy, entirely deftroyed by the Indians of Darien. Some years after, the fettlement was repaired, and the in- habitants maintained their ground till 1584, when orders arrived from Philip 11. for their removing to Parto Bello; as much better fituated for the com- merce of that country. Porto BeLLo was taken and plundered by John Morgan, an Englith adventurer, who infelied thofe feas; but, in confideration of a ranfom, he fpared the forts and houtes. Tue town of Porto Bello ftands near the fea, on the declivity of a mountain which furrounds the whole harbour. Mott of the houfes are built of wood. In fome the firft ftory is of ftone, and the remainder of wood. They are about 130 in number; moft of them Jarge and fpacious. The town is under the jurifdic- 2 tion CuI. | SOUTH AMERICA. 89 tion of a governor, with the title of lieutenant- general ; being tuch under the prefident of Panama, and the term of his poft is without any {pecified limit- ation. He is always a gentleman of the army, having under him the commandants of the forts that defend the harbour; whofe employments are for life. Ir confifis of one principal ftreet, extending along the ftrand, with other fmaller croffing it, and running from the declivity of the mountain ta the fhore, tol gether with fome lanes, in the fame direction with the principal ftrect, where the ground admits of it. Here are two large fquares; one oppofite to the cufiom- houfe, which is a ftruCture of ftone, contiguous to the quay ; the other oppofite the great church, which is of ftone, large, and decently ornamented, confidering the fmallnefs of the place. It is ferved by a vicar and other priefts, natives of the country. Here are two other churches, one called Nuefira Signora de la Merced, with a convent of the fame order; the other St. Juan de Dios, which, though it bears the ttle of an hofpital, and was founded as fuch, is very far from being fo in reality. The church of la Merced is of fione, but mean, and ruinous, like the convent, which is alfo decayed; fo that, wanting the proper conveniencies for the religious to tefide in, they live in the town difperfed in private houfes. Tuat of St. Juan de Dios is only a {mall building like an oratory, and not in better condition than that of la Merced. Its whole community confifis of a prior, chaplain, and another religious, and lometimes even of leís: fo that its extent is very {mall, fince, properly fpeaking, it has no community; and the apartment intended for the reception of patients con- fifis only of one chamber, open to the roof, without beds or other necetlaries. Nor are any admitted but fuch as are able to pay for their treatment and diet. It is o of no advantage to the poor of the place; go A VOYAGE TO Boox Il. place; but ferves for lodging fick men belonging to the men of war which come hither, being provided with neceflaries from the ihips, and attended by their refpective furgeons, lodging-room being the only thing afforded them by this nominal hofpital. Ar the eaft end of the town, which is the road to Panama, is a quarter called Guiney, being ihe place _ where all the Negroes of both fexes, whether flaves or free, have their habitations. This quarter is very much crowded when the galleons are here, moft of the in- habitants of the town entirely quitting their houfes for the advantage of letting them, while others content themfelves with a {mall part in order to make money of the reft. The Mulattoes and other poor families alfo remove, either to Guiney, or to cottages already erected near it, or built on this occafion. Great numbers of artificers from Panama likewife, who flock to Porto Bello to work at their refpective callings, lodge in this quarter for cheapnefs. Towarps the fea, in a large tradi between the town and Gloria caftle, barracks are alío erected, and principally filled with the fhips’ crews ; who keep fialls of {weetmeats, and other kind of eatables brought from Spain. But at the conclufion of the fair, the fhips put to fea, and all thefe buildings are taken down, and the town returns to its former tranquillity and emptinefs. f By an expcriment we made with the barometer in a place a toife above the level of the fea, the height of the mercury was 27 inches 11 lines and a half. - CHAP. Ca. 1. SOUTH AMERICA. 91 CHAP. III. Defcription of Porto Bello Harbour. "THE name of this port indicates its being com- modious for all forts of fhips or veffels, great or fmall ; and though its entrance is very wide, it is well defended by Fort St. Philip de Todo Fierro. It ftands on the north point of the entrance, which is about 600 toifes broad, that is, a little lefs than the fourth part of a league ; and the fouth fide being full of rifes of rocks, extending to fome diftance from the fhore, a thip is obliged to ftand to the north, though the deepeft part of the “channel i is in the middle ot the entrance, and thus continues in a ftraight direction, having g, 10, or 15 fathom water, and a bottom of clayey mud, mixed with chalk and fand. On the fouth fide of the harbour, and oppofite to ihe anchoring-place, is a large caftle, called Sant Jago de la Gloria, to the eaft of which. at the diltance of about 100 toifes, begins the town, having before ita point of land projecting into the harbour. On this point ftood a {mall fort called St. Jerome, within ten toifes of the houfes. All thefe were demolifhed by the Englith admiral Vernon, who, with a numerous naval force *, in1739, made himfelf maficr of this port; having found it fo unprovided with every thing, that the greater part of the artillery, efpecially that of the caftle de Todo Fierro, or iron caftle, was dif- mounted for want of carriages, part of the few mili- tary ftores unferviceable, and the garrifon fhort of its complement even in tine of peace. The gover- nor of the city, Don Bernardo Gutierrez de Bocane- gra, was alfo abfent at Panama, on fome accufation brought againíi him. Thus the Enzlith, meeting no * The numerous naval force, mentioned by our author, confifted, we know, of fix fhips only. refiftance, 92 A VOYAGE TO Boox II. refiftance, eafily fucceeded in their defign upon this city, which furrendered by capitulation. $ Tue anchoring-place for the large fhips is N. W. of Gloria caftle, which is nearly the centre of the harbour; but leffer veffels, which come farther up, mutt be careful to avoid a fand-bank, lying 150 toifes from St. Jerome’s fort, or point, bearing from it W. one quarter northerly ; and on which there is only a fathom and a half, or, at moft, two fathom water. N. W. of the town is a little bay, called la Caldera, or the kettle, having four fathom anda half water; and is a very proper place for careening fhips and vellels, as, befides its depth, it is perfectly defended from all winds. In order to go into it, you muft keep preity clofe tothe weftern fhore till about a third part of the breadth of the entrance, where you will have five fathom water (whilft onthe eafiern fide of the fame entrance there is not above two or three feet), and then fleer directly towards the bottom of the bay. When the fhips are in, they may moor with four ca- bles eaft and weft, in a fmall bafon, formed by the Caldera; but care muft be taken to keep them always on the weftern fide. N. E. of the town is the mouth of a river called Cafcajal, which affords no frefh water within a quarter ofa league or upwards from its mouth; and it is not uncommon to fee in it Caymanes, or alligators. Tue tides are here irregular; and in thisparticular, as well as that of the winds, there is no difference be- tween this harbour and that of Carthagena ; except that here the fhips muft always be towed in, being either becalmed, or the wind directly againft them. From obfervatiens we made, both by the pole-ftar and the fun’s azimuth, we found the variation of the needle in this harbour to be 8° 4* eafterly. Amone the mountains which furround the whole harbour of Porto Bello, beginning from St. Philip de Todo Fierro, er the iron cafile (which is fituated on their Plan of the Harbour and Town of PORTO BELLO PLAN OF THE ITO —Crry or QU Y. Nzale rezo, Strand 07 an Woman of the comnon 5.An Indian Feasant. 6-An Indian 3. An Indian Barber 4.4 Mestizo er QUILO, of Quito. 1.4 Spanish Lady 2. Anindian woman y Distinction. Cu. IIT, SOUTH AMERICA. 93 their declivity), and, without any decreafe of height, extends to the oppofite point, one is particularly re- markable by its fuperior loftinefs, as if defigned to be the barometer of the country, by foretelling every thange of weather. ‘This mountain, difiinguithed by the name of Capiro, ftands at the utmoft extremity of the harbour, in the road to Panama. Its top is always covered with clouds of a denfity and darkneís feldom feen in thofe of this atmofphere; and from thefe, which are called the capillo or cap, has poflibly been corruptly formed the name of Monte Capiro. When thefe clouds thicken, increafe their blacknefs, and fink below their ufual ftation, it isa fure fignof atem- . peft; while, on the other hand, their clearnefs and aícent as certainly indicate the approach of fair weather. It muít however be remembered, that thefe changes are very frequent and very fudden. It is alío feldom that the fummit is ever obferved clear from clouds; and when this does happen, it is only, as it were, for an inftant. The jurifdiction of the governor of Porto Bello is limited to the town and the forts; the neighbouring country, over which it might be extended, being full of mountains covered with impenetrable forefis, ex- cept a few vallies, in which are thinly fcattered fome farms or Waciendas; the nature of the country not admitting of farther improvements. a e mi CHAP! TV. Of the Climate of Porto Bello, and the Diflempers which prove fo fatal to the Crews-of the Galleons. 4 Y inclemency ef the climate of Porto Bello is fufficiently known all over Europe. Not only firangers who come thither are affected by it, but even the natives themfelves fuffer in various manners. It deftroys 94 A VOYAGE TO Boox II. defiroys the vigour of nature, and often untimely cuts the thread of life. It is a current opinion, that for- merly, and even not above twenty years fince, partu- rition was here fo dangerous, that it was feldom any women did not die in childbed. As foon therefore as they had advanced three or four months in their preg- nancy, they were fent to Panama, where they continued till the danger of delivery was paft. A few indeed had the firmneís to wait their deftiny in their own houfes ; but much the greater number thought it more advifable to undertake the journey, than to run fo great a hazard of their lives. Tue exceffive love which a lady had for her huf- band, blended with a dread that he would forget her during her abfence, his employment not permitting him to accompany her to Panama, determined her to fet the firfi example of acting contrary to this general cuftom. The reafons for her fear were fufficient to juftify her refolution to run the ritk of a probable danger, in order to avoid an evil which fhe knew to be certain, and muft have embittered the whole re- mainder of her life. The event was happy; fhe was delivered, and recovered her former health; and the example of a lady of her rank did not fail of infpiring others with the like courage, though not founded on the fame reafons; till, by degrees, the dread which for- mer melancholy cafes had impreffed on the mind, and gave occafion to this climate’s being confidered as fatal to pregnant women, was entirely difperfed. ANOTHER opinion equally firange is, that the ani- mals from other climates, on their being brought to Porto Bello, ceafe to procreate. The inhabitants bring inftances of hens brought from Panama or Cartha- gena, which immediately on their arrival grew bar- ren, and laid no more eggs; and even at this very time the horned cattle fent from Panama, after they have been here a fhort time, lofe their flefh fo as not to be eatable ; though they do not want for plenty e goo Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 95 good pafture. It is certain that there are no horfes or affes bred here, which tends to confirm the opinion that this climate checks the generation of creatures produced in a more benign or lefs noxious air. How- ever, not to rely on the common opinion, we inquired of fome intelligent perfons, who differed but ver little from the vulgar, and even confirmed what they allerted, by many known facts, and experiments per- formed by themfelves. Tue liquor in Mr. Reaumur’s thermometer, on the 4th of December 1735, at fix in the morning, ftood at 1021, and at noon rofe to 1023. Tue heat here is exceflive, augmented by the fitua- tion of the town, which is furrounded with high moun- tains, without any interval for the winds, whereby it , might be refrefhed. The trees on the mountains ftand fo thick, as to intercept the rays of the fun; and, con- fequently, hinder them from drying the earth under their branches : hence copious exhalations, which form large clouds, and precipitate in violent torrents of rain ; thefe are no fooner over, than the fun breaks forth afreíh, and fhines with its former fplendour ; though fearce has the activity of his rays dried the furface of the ground not covered by the trees, when the atmofphere is again crowded by another collection of thick vapours, and the fun again concealed. Thus it continues during the whole day: the night is fub- ject to the like vicifitudes ; but without the leaft di- minution of heat in either. These torrents of rain, which, by their fuddennefs and impetuofity, feem to threaten a fecond deluge, are accompanied with fuch tempefis of thunder and light- ning, as muft daunt even the moftrefolute : this dread- ful noife is prolonged by repercuflions from the ca- verns of the mountains, like the explofion of a cannon, the rumbling of which is heard for a minute after. To this may alío be added the howlings and fhrieks of the multitudes of monkies of al! kinds, which live in the 96 A VOYAGE TO Boox IT. the forefis of the mountains, and which are never louder than when a man of war fires the morning and evening gun, though they are fo much ufed to it. Tus continual inclemency, added to the fatigue of the feamenin unloading the fhips, carrying the goods on fhore in barges, and afterwards drawing them along on fledges, caufes a very profufe tranfpiration, and confequently renders them weak and faint; and they, in order to recruit their fpirits, have recourfe to brandy, of which there is, on thefe occafions, an in- credible confumption. ‘The exceffive labour, immo- derate drinking, and the inclemency and unhealthful- neís of the climate, muft jointly deftroy the beft con- ftitutions, and produce thofe deleterious difeafes fo common in this country. They may well be termed deleterious ; for the fymptoms of all are fatal, the pa- tients being too much attenuated to make any effectual refiftance ; and hence epidemics and mortal diftempers are lo very common. Ir is not the feamen alone who are fubje¢t to thefe difcafes ; others, ftrangers to the leas, and not con- cerned in the fatigues, are attacked by them; and, confequently, is a fufficient demonftration that the . other two are only collateral, though they tend both to fpread and inflame the difiemper; it being evident, that when the fluids are difpoíed to receive the feeds of the diftemper, its progrefs is more rapid, and its attacks more violent. On fome occafions, phyficians have been fent for from Carthagena, as being fuppofed, to be better acquainted with the propereft methods of curing the diftempers of this country, and confe- quently more able to recover the feamen ; but expe- rience has fhewn, that this intention has been fo, little anfwered, that the galleons or other European fhips, which ftay any time here, feldom depart, without burying half, or, at leafi, a third of their men ; and hence this city has, with too much reafon, been termed the grave of the Spaniards; but it we . with Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 97 with much greater propriety, be applied to thofe of other nations who vifit it This remark was fuffici- ently confirmed by the havoc made among the Eng- lith, when their fleet, in 1726, appeared before the port, witha view of making themfelves matters of the treafure brought thither from all parts to the fair held at the arrival of the galleons, which, at that time, by the death of the marquis Grillo, were com- manded by Don Francifco Cornejo, one of thofe great officers whofe conduét and refolution have done ho- nour to the navy of Spain. He ordered the fhips un- «der his command to be moored in a line within the harbour ; and erected, on the entrance, a battery, the care of which he committed to the officers of the fhips ; or rather, indeed, fuperintended it himéelf, omitting no precaution, but vifiting every part in per- fon. Thefe preparatives firuck fuch a conflernation into the Englifh fleet, though of confiderable force, that, infiead of making any attempt, they formed only a blockade, depending on being fupplied with pro- vifions from Carthagena, and that famine would at Jength oblige the Spaniards to give up what they at firft intended to acquire by force; but when the ad- miral thought himfelf on the point of obtaining his ends, the inclemency of the feafon ‘declared itfelf among his fhips’ companies, {weeping away fuch num- bers, that in a fhort time he was obliged to return to Jamaica, with-the lofs of above half bis people. But, notwithftanding the known inclemency of the climate of Porto Bello, and its general fatality to Europeans, the fquadron of 1730 enjoyed Nei a good ftate of health, though the fatigues and irregu- larities among the feamen were the fame: nor was there any perceivable change in the air. This happy fingularity was attributed to the fiay of the fquadron at Carthagena, where they paffed the time of the epidemia, by which their conftitutions were better adapted to this climate; and hence it appears, that Voz. L. H the 98 A VOYAGE TO Boox Il. the principal caufe of thefe diftempers flows from the conftitutions of the Europeans not being ufed to it; and thus they either dic, or become habituated to it, like the natives, Creoles, amd other inhabitants. A Serene Se CHAP.’ V. Account of the Inhabitants and Country about Porto Bello, N feveral particulars there is no effential difference between Carthagena and’ Porto Bello; fo that 1 fhall only mention thofe peculiar to the latter; and add fome obfervations, tending to convey a more exact knowledge of this country. Tae number of the inhabitants of Porto Bello, by reafon of its fmalluefs, and the inclemency of its cli- mate, is very inconfiderable, and the greater part of thefe, Negroes and Mulattos, there being fearce thirty White families; thofe, who by commerce or their eftates are in eafy circumftances, removing to Panama. So that thofe only ftay at Porto Bello, whofe employ- ments oblige them to it; as the governor or licutenant- general, the commanders of the forts, the civil officers of the crown, the officers and foldiers of the gar- rifons, the alcaldes in office and of the hermandad, and the town-clerk. During our flay here, the gar- rifons of the forts confifled of about 125 men, being detachments from Panama; and thete, though coming from a place fo near, are affected io fuch a degree, that in lefs than a month they are to attenuated, as-to be unable to do any duty, till cuftom again reftores them to their firength. None of thefe, or of the na- tives of the country, above the Mulatto clafs, ever fettle here, thinking it a difgrace to-live in it: a cer- tain proof of its unhealthinefs, fince thofe to whom it gave birth forfake it, Iv Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 99 In manners and cuftoms, the inhabitants. of Porto Bello refemble thofe of Carthagena, except that the latter are more free and generous, thofe in the parts round Port Bello being accufed of avarice; a vice natural to all the inhabitants of thefe countries. Provisions are fcarce at Porto Bello, and confe- quently dear, particularly during the time of the gal- leons and the fair, when there is a neceffity for a fup- ply from Cartliagena and Panama. From the former are brought maize, rice, cafava, hogs, poultry, and roots; and from the latter, cattle. The only thing in plenty here is fifh, of which there is a great va- riety and very good. It alfo abounds in fugar-canes, fo that the chacaras, or farm-houfes, if they may be fo called, are built of them. They have alfo inge- nios * for making fugar and molaffes, and, from the latter, brandy. Fresu water pours down in fireams from the moun- tains, fome running without the town, and others croíling it. Thefe waters are very light and digeftive, and, in thofe who are ufed to them, good to create an appetite. Qualities, which in other countries would be very valuable, are here pernicious. ‘This country feems fo curfed by nature, that what is in itfelf good, becomes here defiructive. For, doubtlefs, this water is too fine and active for the fiomachs of the inhabit- ants; and thus produces dyfenteries, the lafi fiage of all other difiempers, and which the patient very feldom furvives. Thefe rivulets, in their defcent from the mountains, form little refervoirs, or ponds, whofe coolnefs is increafed by the fhade of the trees, and in thefe all the inhabitants of the town bathe themfelves confiantly every day at eleven in the morning; and the Europeans fail not to follow an example fo plea- fant and conducive to health. * Ingenio fignifiesthe mill, ftill, and apparatus, for making fugar, rum, &c, H 2 As 100 A VOYAGE TO Book Il. As thefe forefts almoft border on the houfes of the town, the tigers often make incurfions into the fireets during the night, carrying off fowls, dogs, and other domeflic creatures; and fometimes even boys have fallen a prey tothem; and it is certain, that ravenous beafts, which provide themfelves with food in this manner, are afterwards known to defpife what the fo- refts afford; and that, after tafting human flefh, they flight that of beafts*, Befides the {narcs ufually laid for them, the Negroes and Mulattos, who felt wood in the foreíis of the mountains, are very dex- terous in encountering the tigers; and fome, even on account of the flender reward, feek them in their re- treats. The arms in this combat, feemingly fo dan- gerous, are only a lance, of two or three yards in length, made of a very ftreng wood, with the point of the fame hardened in the fire; and a kind of cimeter, about three quarters of a yard in length. Thus armed, they ftay till the creature makes an af- fault on the left arm, which holds the lance, and is wrapped up ina fhort tloak of baize. Sometimes the tiger, aware of the danger, feems to decline the com- bat; but his antagonift provokes him with a flight touch of the lance, in order, while he 15 defending bimfelf, to ftrike a fure blow; for, as foon as the creature feels the lance, he grafps it with ene of his paws, and with the ether ftrikes at the arm which holds it. Then it is that the períon nimbly aims a blow with his cimeter, which he kept concealed with the other hand, and hamffrings the ereature, which immediately draws back enraged, but returns to the- * This is an error. Beafts of prey in America are not fo fierce as in Africa and Afia; they never attack the human fpecies, but when forced by hunger, or provoked. It is affirmed by the natives, that if an European, with his Negro and dog, were to meet with two hungry beafis of prey, whether tigers or” ounces, they would feize the dog and Negro, and leave the European. But the truth I never knew experienced. A. charge 3 Cu. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 101 - charge; when, receiving another fuch firoke, he is to- tally deprived of his moft dangerous weapons, and rendered incapable of moving. A‘ter which the per- fon kills him at his leifure, and {tripping off the fkin, cutting off the head, and the fore and hind feet, re- turns to the town, difplaying thefe as the trophies of his victory. Among the great variety of animals in this country, one of the moft remarkable is the Perico ligero, or nimble Peter, an ironical name given it on account of its extreme fluggifhnefs and floth. It refembles a middling monkey, but of a wretched appearance, its fkin being of a greyifh brown, all over corrugated, and the legs and feet without hair. Heis fo lumpifh, as not to fiand in need of either chain or hutch, for he never ftirs till compelled by hunger. When he moves, every effort is attended with tuch a plaintive, and at the fame time fo difagreeable a cry, as at once produces pity and difguft; and this even on the flightefi motion of the head, legs, or feet; proceeding probably from a general contraction of the mufcles and nerves of his body, which puts him to extreme pain when he endeavours to move them. In this dif- agreeable cry confifis his whole defence ; for, it being natural to him to fly at the firft hoftile approach of any bea{t, he makes at every motion fuch howlings as are even infupporiable to his purfuer, who foon quits him, and even flies beyond the hearing of his horrid noife. Nor is it only during the time he is in motion that he utters thefe cries; he repeats them while he refis himfelf, continuing a long time motion- leís before he takes another march. ‘The food of this creature is generally wild fruits ; when he can find none on the ground, he looks out for a tree well load- ed, which, with a great deal of pains, he climbs; and, to fave himfelf fuch another toilfome afcent, plucks off all the fruit, throwing them on the grounds and to avoid the pain of defcending, forms himielf 3 into 102 A VOYAGE TO . Boox If. into a ball, and drops from tbe branches. At the foot of this tree he continues till all the fruits are confumed, never ftirring till hunger forces him to feek again for food. SERPENTS are here as numerous and deadly as at * Carthagena ; and toads * innumerable, fwarming not only in the damp and marfhy places, asin other coun- tries, but even in the ftreets, courts of great houfes, and all open places in general. The great numbers of them, and theirappearance after the leaft hower, haveinduced fome toimagine, that every drop of water becomes a toad; and though they allege, as a proof, the extraor- dinary increafe of them on the fmalleft fhower, their opinion does not feem to me well founded. It is evident, that thefe reptiles abound both in the forefts and neighbouring rivers, and even in the town tifelf; and produce a prodigious quantity of animalcula, from whence, according to the beft naturalifts, thefe reptiles are formed. Thefe animalcula either rife in the va- pours, which form the rain, and falling together with iton the ground, which is extremely, heated by the rays of the fun, or being already depofited in it by the toads, grow, and become animated, in no lefs numbers than were formerly [cen in Europe, But fome of them which appear after rains being fo large as to meafure fix inches in length, they cannot be imagined the ef- fect of an inflantaneous production; I am therefore inclined tothink, from my own obfervations, that this part of the country, being remarkably moift, is very well adapted to nourifh the breed of thofe creatures, which love watery places; and therefore avoid thofe parts of ihe ground expofed to the rays of the fun, feeking others where the earth is foft, and there form themfelves cavities in the ground, to enjoy the moif- * Called by the natives ferpos; they appear every dewy evening in as great numbers as after a hower. I never heard of the opinion the author fpeaks of. A. ' : : ture; Cu. V. SOUTH AMERICA. — 103 ture; and as the furface over them is generally dry, the toads are not perceived; but no fooner does it begin to rain, than they leave their retreats, to come at the water, which is their fupreme delight ; and thus fill the fireets and open places. Hence the vulgar opinion had its rife, that the drops of rain were tranf- formed into toads. When it has rained in the nicht, the fireets and fquares in the morning feem paved with thefe reptiles; fo that you cannot fiep without tread- ing on them, which fometimes is productive of trou- blefome bites; for, befides their poison, they are large enough for their teeth to be teverely felt. Some we have already obferved to be fix inches long, and this is their general meafure; and there are fuch numbers of them, that nothing can be imagined more difmal than their croakings, during the night, in all parts of the town, woods, and caverns of the moun- tains. | CHEAP. VT. Of the Trade of Porto Bello. HE town of Porto Bello, fo thinly inhabited, by reafon of its noxious air, the fcarcity of provifions, and the barrenneís of its foil, becomes, at the time of the galleons, one of the moft populous places in all South America. Its fituation on the ifhmus betwixt the fouth and north fea, the goodnefs of its harbour, and its fmall diftance from Panama, have given it the preference for the rendezvous of the joint com. merce of Spain and Peru, at its fair. On advice being received at Carthagena, that the Peru fleet had unloaded at Panama, the galleons make the beft of their way to Porto Bello, in order to avoid the difiempers which have their fource from idlenels, The concourfe of people, on this occafion, is fuch, 4 83 104 —¿AIVOYAGE TO Boox TT. as to raife the rent of lodging to an exceflive de- gree; a middling chamber, with a clofet, lets, during the fair, for a thoufand crowns, and lome large houfes for four, five, or fx thoutand. The fhips are no fooner moored in the -harbour, than the firít work is, to erect, in the fquare, a tent made of the fhip's fails, for receiving its cargo; at which the proprietors of the goods are prefent, in order to find their bales, by the marks which diftin- guiih them. ‘Thele bales are drawn on fledges, to iheir refpeClive places, by the crew of every fhip, and the money given them is proportionally divided. Wauutsr the leamen and European traders are thus employed, the land is covered with droves of mules from Panama, each drove confifting of above an hun- dred, loaded with chefis of gold and filver, on account of the merchants of Peru. Some unload them at the exchange, others in the middle of the fquare; yet, amidít the hurry and confufion of fuch crowds, no theft, lofs, or difturbance, is ever known. He who has ícen this place during the tiempo muerto, or dead time, folitary, poor, and a perpetual filence reigning every where; the harbour quite empty, and every place wearing a melancholy afpect, mult be filled with aftontíhment at the fudden change, to fee the bufiling multitudes, every houfe crowded, the fquare and ftreets encumbered with bales and chefts of gold and filver oí all kinds; the harbour full of thips and vellels, fome bringing by the way of Rio de Chape the goods e of Peru, as cacao, quinquina or jefuits bark, Vicuna wool, and bezoar ftones ; others coming from Cartha- gena, loaded with provifions : and thus a (pot, at all other times detefted for its deleterious qualities, be- comes the ftaple of the riches of the old and new world, and the fcene of one of the moft confiderable branches of commerce in the whole earth. Tue fhips being unloaded, and the merchants of Peru, together with the prefident of Panama, arrived, * the » e AUS Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 105 the fair comes under deliberation. And for this pur- pofe the deputies of the feveral parties repair on board the commodore of the galleons, where, in prefence of the commodore, and the prefident of Panama; the former, as patron of the Europeans, and the latter, of the Peruvians; the prices of the feveral kinds of mer- chandifes are fettled; and all preliminaries being ad- jufted in three or four meetings, the contracts are figned,.and made public, that every one may conform himfelf to them in the fale of his effets. Thus all fraud is precluded. The purchafes and falcs, as likewife the exchanges of money, are tranfacted by brokers, both from Spain and Peru. After this, every one be- gins to difpote of his goods ; the Spanifh brokers em- barking their chefis of money, and thofe of Peru fend- ing away the goods they have purchafed, in veffels called chatas and bongos, up the river Chagre. And thus the fair of Porto Bello ends. FormerLY this fair was limited to no particular time; but as a long ftay, in fucha fickly place, ex- tremely affecied the health of the traders, his catholic majefty tranímitted an order, that the fair Should not Jaft above forty days, reckoning from that in which the fhips came to an anchor inthe harbour; and that, if in this fpace of time the merchants could not agree in their rates, thofe of Spain fhould be allowed to carry their goods up the country to Peru; and accordingly the commodore of the galleons has orders to re- embark them, and return to Carthagena; but other- wife, by virtue of a compact between the merchants of both kingdoms, and ratified by the king, noSpanifh trader is to fend bis goods, on his own account, be- yond Porto Bello: and, on the contrary, thoíe of Peru cannot fend remittances to Spain, for purchafing goods there. Wuaitsr the Englith were permitted to fend an an- nual fhip, called Navio de Permiffo, fhe ufed to bring to the fair a large cargo on her own account, never faling 106 A VOYAGE TO Boox Il. failing firft to touch at Jamaica, fo that her loading alone was more than half of all thofe brought by the galleons; for, befides that her burden fo far exceeded five hundred Spanith tons, that it was even more than nine hundred, fhe had no provifions, water, or other ‘things, which fill a great part of the hold; fhe indeed took them in at Jamaica, from whence fhe was attended by five or fix fmaller veffels, loaded with goods, which, when arrived near Porto Bello, were put on board her, and the provifions removed into the tenders ; by which artifice the fingle (hip was made to carry more than five or fix of the largeft galleons. This nation baving a free trade, and felling cheaper than the Spaniards, that indulgence was of infinite detriment to the com- merce of Spain. In the dead time, all the trade ftirring here confifts in provifions from Carthagena ; and cacao and quin- quina, down the river Chagre: the former is carried in fmall veffels to Vera Cruz, and the quinquina either depofited in warehoufes, or put.on board fhips, which, with permiffion, come from Spain to Nicaragua and Honduras; thefe fhips alfo take in cacao. Some {mall vellels likewife come from the iflands of Cuba, La Trinidad, and St. Domingo, with cacao and rum. Wuutsrt the affiento of Negroes fubfifted either with the French or Englith, one of their principal factories was fettled here; and was of confiderable advantage to its commerce, as being the channel by which not only Panama was fupplicd with Negroes, but from whence they" were fent all over the kingdom of Peru: on which account the agents of the affiento were allowed to bring with them fuch a quantity of provifions as was thought neceflary, both for their own ufe, and their flaves of both fexes. BOOK Cu. T. SOUTH AMERICA. 107 BOOK III. Voyage from Porto Bello to Panama. CHAP. 1. Voyage up the Chagre, and “fourney from Cruces o Pánama by Land. ya ME it had always been our fixed defign to flay no longer than abfolutely neceffary in any place, till we had anfwered the great end of our commifiion, our ardour to enter upon vit, together with a defire of quitting this dangerous ade induced us to make the utinoft difpatch. In order to this, we fent advice from Porto Bello, to Don Dionyfio Martinez de la Vega, prefident of Panama, of our arrival, the mo- tives of our voyage, and other circumftances, together with his majefty’s orders relating to the affiftance to be given us by all his officers ; "adding our requefis, that he would be pleafed to fend one or two of thofe veffels ufed on the Chagre, to bring us to Panama, it being impracticable for us to travel thither by land, as fome of the infiruments were too large for the narrow craggy roads in many parts, and others of a nature not to be carried on mules. This gentleman, who has always fhewn a remarkable zeal for every thing digni- fied with his majefty’s name, was not in the leaft wanting on this occafion; and his polite reply, which fully anfwered our moft fanguine hopes, was followed 108 A VOYAGE TO... Boox TH, followed by two veflels, difpatched to Porto Bello. Immediately on their arrival, we put on board the in- ftruments and baggage, belonging both to the French gentlemen and ourfelves; and on thie 22d of Decem- ber 1735, departed from Porto Bello. Tue land wind being contrary to us, we rowed out of Porto Bello harbour; but the hte fetting in at nine in the morning, beth veficls got under fail; and a freth gale brought us, at four in ‘the evening of the lame day, to the onde of the river Chagre, where we landed at the cuftom- code ; and the next day we be- gan to row ap the rive On the 24th, we ies ae to proceed in the fame manner; but the force of our oars being too weak to ftem the current, we were obliged to fet the vellels along with poles. At a quarter after one in the afternoon, we meafured the velocity of the cur-- rent, and found it ten toifes and one foot in-forty teconds and a half. In this flow toillome manner we proceeded till the 27th, at eleven in the morning, when we arrived at Cruces, the landing-place, about five leagues from Panama. As we advanced up the river, we found a great increaie in the velocity of the current, which on the 25th was ten toifes in twenty- fix leconds and a half: on the 26th, at the place where we anchored for that night, ten toifes in fourteen feconds and a half; and on the 27th, at the town of Cruces, the fame {pace in fixteen feconds. Confequently the greatefi velocity of the water is two hundred and eighty-three toiies, or about a league, in an hour. This river, which was formerly called Lagartos, from the number of alligators in it, though now “better known by that of Chagre, has its fource in the moun- tains near Cruces. Its mouth, which is in the north fea, in 9” 18 40” N. latitude, and 295° 6’ longitude, from the meridian of ‘Teneriffe, was difcovered by Lopez de Olano. Diego de Alvites difcovered that "part Ca. L SOUTH AMERICA. 109 part of it where Cruces is fituated; but the firtt - Spaniard who failed down it, to reconnoitre it to its - mouth, was captain Hernando de la Serna, im the: year 1527. Its entrance is defended by a fort, fitu- ated on a f{teep rock on the eaft fide near the fea fhore. This fort is called San Lorenzo de Chagres, has a commandant and a lieutenant, both appointed by his majefty, and the garrifon is draughicd from Panama, Agout eight totfes from the above fort, is a town of the fame name. The houfes are prineipally of reeds, and the inhabitants Negroes, Mulattos, and Meftizos. They are a brave and active people, and, on occafion, take up arms to the number of triple the ufual garrifon of the fort. GProsiTE, on a low and level ground, ftands the royal cuftom-houfe, where an account is taken of all goods going up the Chagre. Here the breadth of the river is about 120 toifes, but grows narrower gradu- ally as you approach its fource. At Cruces, the place where it begins to be navigable, it is only twenty toifes broad; the neareft diftance between this town and the mouth is twenty-one miles, and the bearing N.W. 7° 24’ wefterly; but the diftance meafured along the feveral windings of the river, is no lefs than forty-three miles. Ir breeds a great number of caymanes or alliga- tors: creatures often feen on its banks, which are im- paffable, both on account of the clofenefs of the trees, and the bufhes, which cover the ground, as it were, with thorns. Some-of thefe trees, efpecially the cedar, are ufed in making the canoes or banjas employed on the river. Many of them being under- mined by the water, are thrown down by the {wellings of the river; but the prodigious magnitude of the trunk, and their large and extenfive branches, hinder them from being carried away by the current; fo that they remain near their original fituation, to the great F 119 A VOYAGE TO Boor HI. great inconvenience and even danger of the veffels; for, the greater part of them being under water, a vellel, by firiking fuddenly on them, ts frequently overfet. Another obftruction to the navigation of this river is the races, or {wift currents, over.the fhallows, where thofe veffels, though built for that purpofe, cannot proceed for want of a fufficient quantity of water; fo that they are obliged to be lightened, till they have pafled the fhatlow. Tue barks employed:on this river are of two kinds, the chatas and bongos, called in Peru, bonques. The firft are compofed of feveral pieces of timber, like barks, and of great breadth, that they may draw but little water; they carry fix or feven hundred quintals, The bongos are formed out of one piece of wood; and it is furprifing to think there fhould be trees of fuch prodigious bulk, fome being eleven Paris feet broad, and carrying conveniently four or five hundred quintals. Both forts have a cabin at the ftern, for the conveniency of the paflengers, a kind of awning fupported with a wooden ftancheon reaching to the head, and a partition in the middle, which is alfo con- tinued the whole length of the veffel ; and over the whole, when the vefiel is loaded, are laid hides, that the goods may not be damaged by the violence of the rains, which are very frequent here. Each of thefe require, befides the pilot, at leaft eighteen or twenty robuft Negroes; for, without fuch a number, they would not be able, in going up, to make any way againft the current. ALL the forefts and woods near this river are full ofwild beafis, efpecially difterent kinds of monkies. They are of various colours, as black, brown, reddith, and ftriated; there is alfo the fame diverfity in their fize; fome being a yard long, others about half a yard, and others fcarce one third. "The flefh of all thefe different kinds is highly valued by the Negroes, efpecially that of the red; but, however delicate the meat Cr, 1, SOUTH AMERICA. TI meat may be, the fight of them is, I think, enough to make the appetite abhor them; for, when dead, they are fcalded in order to take off the hair, whence the (kin is contracted by the heat, and when tho- roughly cleaned, looks perfectly white, and very greatly relembles a child of about two or three years of age, when crying. This refemblance is {hocking to humanity, yet the fcarcity of other food in many parts of America renders the flefh of thefe creatures valuable; and not only the Negroes, but the Creoles and Europeans themíelves, make no icruple of eat- ing it. | NoTHING, in my opinion, can excel the profpects which the rivers of this country exhibit. The mo(t fertile imagination of a painter can never equal the magnificence of the rural land{capes here drawn by the pencil of Nature, The groves which fhade the plains, and extend their branches to the river; the various dimenfions of the trees, which cover the emi- nences; the texture of their leaves; the figure of their fruits, and the various colours they exhibit, form a moft delightful fcene, which is greatly heightened by the infinite variety of creatures with which it is di- verfified. The different {pecies of monkies, fkipping in troops from tree to tree, hanging from the branches and in other places fix, eight, or more of them linked together, in order to pafs a river, and the dams with their young on their fhoulders, throwing themfelves into edd poftures, making a thoufand grimaces, will perhaps appear fictitious to thofe who have not aciually teen it. But if the birds are confidered, our reafon for admiration will be greatly augmented : for, befides thofe already mentioned (Book I. chap. vul.), and which, from their abundance, feem to have had their origin on the banks of this river, here are a great variety of others, alfo eatable; as the wild and royal peacock, the turtle-dove, and the heron. Of the latter there are four or five fpecies ; | | lore 112 A VOYAGE TO Boca MÍ fome entirely white ; others of the fame colour, except the neck and fome parts of the body, which are red; others black, only the neck, tips of the wings and the belly white; and fome, with other mixture of colours; and all differing in fize. The fpecies firft mentioned are the leafi ; the white mixed with black the largeft and moft palatable. The flefh of peacocks, phea- fants, and other kinds, is very delicate*. The trees along the banks of this river are furprifingly loaded with fruit; but the pine-apples, for beauty, fize, flavour, and fragrancy, excel thofe of all other countries, and are highly. eftecmed in all parts of America. On our arrival at Cruces, we went on fhore, and were entertained by the alcalde of the town, whofe houfe was that of the cuftoms, where an account is taken of all goods brought up the river. Having, with all poflible difpatch, got every thing ready for our journey to Panama, on the 29th, at half an hour after eleven in the morning, we fet out, and reached that city by three quarters after fix in the evening. We made it our firit bufinefs to wait on the prefident, a mark of refpe due, not only to his dignity, but alfo for the many civilities he had fhewn us. , This worthy gentleman received us all, and particularly the fo- reigners, in the moft cordial and endearing manner. He alfo recommended to all the king’s officers, and other perfons of difiin¢ction in the city, not to be want- ing in any good office, or mark of efteem: a beha- viour which fhewed at once the weight of the royal orders, and his zeal to execute his {ov ereign’s plea- {ure. Some indifpenfable preparations, which were to be made for the profecution of our journey, detained us longer at Panama than we expected. We however * The fifhy tafte, which moft of the fowls in this country have, is "an exception to their delicacy as food. A. em ployed a Ip02 SOUTH AMERICA. 113 employed our time to the beft advantage, making fe- veral obfervations, particularly on the latitude and the pendulum; but the proximity of Jupiter at that time to the Sun hindered us from fettling the longitude. I alfo employed myfelf in taking a plan of the place, with ‘all its fortifications, and adjacent coaft. At "length, all things being in readinefs, we embarked without any farther lofs of time. “ aon i ) y! CAD. Li Defeription of the City of Panama, ANAMA is built on an ifthmus of the fame name, the coaft of which is wafhed by the South Sea. From the obfervations we made here, we found the latitude of this city to be 8° 57’ 4872 north. With regard to its longitude, there are various opinions ; none of the aftronomers having been able, from ob- fervations made on the fpot, to afcertain it; fo that it is fill doubtful whether it lies on the eaft or weft fide of the meridian of Porto Bello. The French geo- graphers will have it to lie on the eaft fide, and ac- cordingly have placed it fo in their maps; but, in thofe of the Spaniards, it is on the weft: and 1 con- ceive the latter, from their frequent journies from one place to the other, may be concluded to have a moré intimate knowledge of their‘ relpeétive fituafions; whereas the former, being firangers in a great mea- furc to thofe places, have not the opportunity of making fo frequent obfervations. I allow indeed, that, among the Spaniards who make this little journey, the number is very fmall of thofe, who have either capacity or inclination for forming a well- grounded judginent of the road they travel; but there ' have been alfo many expert pilots, and other perfons Vou, I. 1 of 14 A VOYAGE TO Boox 1H. of curiofity, who have employed their attention on it; and from their report the fituation of the city has been determined. This opinion is in fome meafure confirmed by our courfe, the direétion of which on the river, from its mouth to the town of Cruces, was eaft 6° 15’ foutherly ; and the diftance being 21 miles, the difference between the two meridians is 20 mi- nutes, the. diftance Chagre is fituated to the weft of Cruces. We muti alfo confider the diftance between Porto Bello and Chagre. During the firft two hours and a half, we failed a league and a half an hour; when, the land breeze fpringing up, we failed two leagues an hour, for feven hours; which in all makes 18 leagues; and the whole courfe having been very nearly weft, the difference of longitude muft have been 44 miles; or 41, allowing for what might have been wanting of a due weft courfe; and from this again fubtract ting the 20 minutes which Cruces lies to the eaft of Chagre, the refult is, that Cruces is fituated twenty-one Pe to the weftward of Porto Bello. To this laft refult muft be added the diftance of. meridians between Cruces and Panama, the bear- ing of which 1s near S. W. and N. E.; and reckoning that we travelled, on account of the roughnefs and _cragginets of the road, only three quarters of a league an hour, during the feven hours, the whole is 44 mies, and the difference-of meridians 10 minutes and a half. Confequently Panama is fituated about 30 minutes weil et Porto Bello; and the Spanifh artiíis are mearer the truth than the French. , Vas firft difeovery of Panama, the Spaniards owe to Tello de Guzman, who tanded here in 151.5; but found only fome fithermen’s huts, this being a very proper place for their bufinefs, and from thence the Indians called it Panama, which fignifies a place abounding in fifh. Before this, namely in the year 1513, Baíco Nunez de Balboa dilcovered the South Sea, and took legal poffeffion of it in the names of the kings Cx. IT. SOUTH AMERICA. 11% _ kings of Caftile. The difcovery of Panama was, in the year 1518, followed by the fettlement of a colony there, under Pedrarias Davila, governor of Caftilla del Oro, the name by which this Terra Firma was then called. And in 1521, his catholic majefty, the emperor Charles V. conftituted it a city, with the proper privileges. ir was this city’s misfortune, in the year:1670, to be facked and burnt by John Morgan, an Englifh - adventurer. He had before taken Porto Bello and Maracaybo; and, retiring to the iflands, he every where publifhed his defign of going to Panama; upon which many of the pirates, who then infefted thofe . feas, joined him. He firft failed for Chagre, where he landed fome of his men, and at the fame time battered the cafile with his fhips; but his fuccefs was owing to a very extraordinary accident. His firength was confiderably diminifhed by the great numbers killed and wounded by the fort, and he began to think it advifable to retreat; when an arrow, fhot from the bow of an Indian, lodged in the - eye of one of Morgan’s companions. The perfon wounded, rendered defperate by the pain, with a re- markable firmneís and prefence of mind drew the arrow from the wound, and wrapping one of its ends in cotton, or tow, put it into his muíket, which was ready loaded, and difcharged it into the fort, where the roofs of the houfes were of ftraw, and the fides of wood, according to the cuftom of that country. The arrow fell on one of the roofs, and immediately fet it on fire, which was not at firft obferved by the be- fieged; who were bufy in defending the place; but the fmoke and flames foon informed them of the total defiruction of the fort, and of the magazine of powder, which the flames muft foon reach. This unexpected accident filled them with terror and con- fufion; the courage of the foldiers degenerated into tumult and difobedience; and, every one being caget xa to 116 A VOYAGE TO Book If: to fave himfelf, the works were foon abandoned, in order to efcape the dotible danger of being either burnt or blown up. The commandant, however, determined to do all in his power, {till defended the fort, with fixteen or twenty foldiers, being all that “were left him, till, covered with wounds, he fell a victim to his loyalty. The pirates, encouraged by this accident, pufked their attack with the utmott vigour; and the few people were obliged to furrender the place , which ibe violence of the dnd foon laid in athes. Having furmounted this difficulty, the greater part of them proceeded up the river in boats and launches, leaving the fhips at anchor, for the defence of their new conqueft. The detachment having landed at Cruces, marched towards Panama, and, on the Sabana, a fpacious plain before the city, they had feveral {kirmifhes, in which Morgan always gained the advantage; fo that he made himfelf mafter of the city; but found it almoft forfaken; the inha- bitants, on fécing their men defeated, having retired into the woods. He now plundered it at his leifure ; and, after ftaying fome days, agreed, for a large ranfom, to evacuate it without damaging the build- ings; but, after the payment of the money, the city was fet on fire, by accident, as they gave out, and as the biftory of his adventures relates; but it is much more probable that it was done by defign. To pre- tend it wa$ owing to accident, feemed to them the beít palliative for their violating the treaty. This misfortune rendering it abfolutely neceffary to rebuild the city, it was removed to its prefent fitua=- 1 tion, which is about a league and a half from the — former, and much more convenient. It hasa waH of — free-ftone, and is defended by a large garrifon of regu. lars; whence detachments are fent to do duty at Darien, Porto Bello, and Chagre. Near the city, on the north-weft, is a mountain called Ancon, whofe perpendicular mI; | SOUTH AMERICA. 113 perpendicular height, by a geometrical menfuration, we found to be 101 toifes. Tue houfes in general, when we vifited this city, were of wood, having but one ftory, and a tiled roof, but large; and from their difpofition, and the fym- metry of their windows, made a handiome appearance. A few were of fione.. Without the walls is an open fuburb, larger than the city itfelf, and the houfes of the fame materials and conftrudction as thofe within, except fúch as border on the country, moft of which “are thatched with ftraw; and among them fome bujios, or huts. The fireets, both of the city and fuburb, are firaight, broad, and for the molt part paved. ThHoucH the greater part of the houfes were formerly of wood, fires were rarely known at Panama, the nature of the timber being fuch, that if any fire is laid on the floor, or placed againít a wall, it is productive of no other confequence than that of making a hole, without kindling into a flame; and the fire itfelf extinguifhed by the athes. But, not- withfianding this excellent quality in the wood, in the year 1737, the'city was almoft entirely contumed, the goodneís of the timber being unable to fecure it from the ravages of the flames; indeed, by the concurrence of another caufe the timber was then tendered more combuftible. The fire began in a cellar, where, among other goods, there were great quantities of pitch, tar, naphiba, and brandy ; thete inflammable fubítances rendered this fingular kind of wood a more eafy prey to the devouring 7 flames. In this conflagration the fuburb owed its fatety to its diftance from the city, which is 1200 toifes. Since this misfortune, it has been again rebuilt; and the greater part of the houfes are now of ftone, all forts of materials for buildings of this kind being here, in the greateft plenty. Lio | In 113 A VOYAGE TO Boox IT, Iw this city is a tribunal or royal audience, in which the governor of Panama prefides; and to this em- ployment is annexed the captainfhip general of Terra Firma, which is generally conferred on an officer of diftinétion, though his common title is that of pre- fident of Panama. It has alfo a cathedral, and a chapter confifting of the bifhop, and a number of prebendaries ; an aujutamiento, or corporation, com- pofed of alcaldes and regidores; three officers of re- venue, under an accomptant, treafurer, and agent; and a court of inquifition appointed by the tribunal of inquifition at Carthagena. The cathedral, and alío the convents, are of fione; indeed, before the conflagration, feveral of the latter were of wood; but that terrible misfortune fhewed them the neceflity of ufing more folid materials. The convents are thofe of the Dominicans, Francifcans, Auguftines, and Fathers of Mercy; a college of Jefuits, a nunnery of the order of St. Clara, and an-hofpital of St. Juan de Dios. The flender revenues will not admit of their being very numerous; and accordingly the ornaments of the churches are neither remarkably rich, nor con- temptible. - The decorations of private houfes arc elegant, but not coftly; and though there are here no perfons of fuch monfirous fortunes as in fome cities of America, it is not deflituté of wealthy inbabitauts, and all have a fufficiency ; fo that, if it cannot be claffed among opulent cities, it is certainly above poverty. Tue harbour of this city is formed in its road, by the fhelter of feveral iflands, particularly Ifla de Naos, de Perico, and Flamencos: the anchoring-place 1s before the fecond, and thence called Perico. The Ships here lie very fafe; and their diftance from the city is about two and a half, or three leagues. Tue tides are regular; and, according to an ob- fervation we made on the day of the conjunction, it was high-water at thrce in the evening. The ied riles Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 119 rifes and falls confiderably ;. fo that the fhore, lying on a gentle flope, is, at low water, left dry toa great diftance. And here we may obíerve the great differ- ence of the tides in the north and fouth feas, being di- rectly oppofite: what in the ports on the north fea 1s ac- counted irregular, is regular in the fouth; and when an the former it ceafes to increafe or decreafe, in the latter it both rifes and falls, extending over the flats, and widening the channels, as the proper effect of the flux and reflux. This particular is fo general, as to be obferved in all the ports of the South Sea; for even at Manta, which is almoft under the equinoétial, the fea regularly ebbs and flows nearly fix hours; and the effecls of thefe two motions are fufficiently vifible along the fhores. The fame happens in the river of Guayaquil, where the quantity of its waters does not ‘interrupt the regular fucceflion of the tides. The like phenomena are feen at Paita, Guanchaco, Callao, and the other harbours; with this difference, that the water rifes and falls more in fome places than in others; fo that we cannot here verify the well-grounded opinion entertained by failors, namely, that between the tropics the tides are irregular, both in the difpro- portion of the time of flood to that of the ebb, and alío in the quantity of water rifing or falling by each of thefe motions; the contrary happening here. This phenomenon is not eafily accounted for; all that can be faid is, that the ifthmus, or narrow neck of land, feparating the two feas, confines their waters, whereby each is fubje& to different laws. Tue variation of the magnetic needle, in this road, is 7° 3g’ eafierly. Both the road and whole coatt abound in a great variety of excellent fifh, among which are two kinds of oyfters, one fmaller than the other; but the fmalleft are much the beft. Ar the bottom of the fea are a great number of pearls; and the oyfters, in which they are found, are remarkably delicious, - This fifhery is of great ad- la vantage ‘ 120 A VOYAGE TO Boox III. vantage to the inhabitants of all the iflands in this bay. Tue harbour of Perico is the rendezvous of the Peru fleet, during the time of the fair; and is never without barks loaded with provifions from the ports of Peru, and a great number of coalting veffels going from thence to Choco, and parts on the weltern coaft ' of that kingdom. / Tux winds are the fame as along the whole coatt ; the tides or currents are ftronger near the iflands than at a difiance from them ; but no general rule can be: given as to their courfe, that depending on the place where the fhip is, with regard to the channels which they form. They alío vary in the fame place accord- ing to the winds. Let it therefore fuffice that we have fhewn there are tides on this coaft, that, on any oc- cafion, this notice may be applied to ufc. CHAP. NI. Of the Climate and Inbabitants of Panama. ANY countries of America have fuch a refem- blance, in refpeét to the inhabitants and cuf- toms, that they appear the fame. This is equally ob- fervable in the climate, when no difference is occa- fioned by the accidental difpofition of the ground, or quality of the foil. But, this fubjedt having been already tufficiently handled, a rational curiofity wall require us only to mention thofe particulars in which they differ. Thus, after faying that the inhabitants of this city refemble thofe of Carthagena with regard to their confiitution, I muft add, that there is fome difference in their difpofition, thofe of Panama being more parfimonious, more defigning and infidious, and - (topping at nothing when profit isin view, the pole- ftar both of Europeans aud Creoles ; acid it is dif ficult Cu. TI. SOUTH AMERICA. 121 ficult to determine which fet the firft example. The fame felfifaneís and parfimony reigns equally among the women, fome Spanifh ladies excepted, who have accompanied their hufbands, appointed auditors, or to fome other employments; thefe ftill retaining the qua- lities they imbibed from education. Tue women of Panama begin to imitate the drefs of thofe of Peru, which, when they go abroad, confifis only of a gown and petticoat, nearly refembling thote ‘worn in Spain; but at home, on vifits, and fome par- ticular ceremonies, their fhift is their only clothing, from the waift upwards. The fleeves are very long and broad, and quite open in the lower part or near the hand; and thefe, like the bofom, are decorated with very fine lace, the chief pride of the ladies of Panama. They wear girdles, and five or fix chaplets or rows of beads about their necks, fome fet in gold, fome of coral mixed with {mall pieces of gold, and others lefs cofily ; but all of different fizes, in order to make the greater fhow ; and befides thefe, one, two, or more gold chains, having fome relics dependant from them. Round their arms they wear bracelets of gold and tombac; alfo ftrings of pearls, corals, and bugles. Their petticoat reaches only from their wailt to the calf of their legs ; and from thence to a little above their ancle, hangs, from their under petticoat, a broad lace. The Meftiza,.or Negro women, or the coloured women as they are called here, are diftin- guiíhed in their drefs from thofe of Spain, only by the gown and petticoat ; the particular privilege of the latter, and which alío gives them the title of Signora ; though many of them have little to boaft of, either with regard to rank or wealth *. lr 1 omitted in Carthagena the following obferva- tion, it was in order to referve it for this place ; name- * Thefe cuftoms are general throughout all the northern parts of South America. A, : \ ly, IN VEYAGE TO Book IT. ly, that 1n Carthagena, Porto Bello,and Panama, the inhabitants havea very fingular pronunciation; and as fome nations have a haughty accent, fome a polite- nefs 1 their manner of expreítion, and others fpeak in a very quick manner; fo here their pronunciation has a faintnefs and languor, which is very difagrecable, till we are rebutted to it by cufiom. And: what is - Bill more particular, each of thefe three cities has a different accent in this languor ; befides particular fyl- ables peculiar to each, and no lefs different than they are from the manner of {peaking ufed in Spain. This may, in fome meafure, flow from an ill habit of body, weakened by the exceflive heat of the climate; but I believe it is principally owing to cuftom. The only difference between the climate of Cartha- gena and this is, that fummer begins later, and ends fooner, as, the longer the brifas delay their return, the fooner they are over. From many thermometrical ob- fervations made on feveral days without any fenfible difference betwixt them at the fame hours, on the 5th and 6th of January 1736, at fix in the morning, they found the liquorat 10203, at noon 10233, and at threes in the afternoon at 1025. But, at the fame time, it muft be obferved, that the brifas now hegan to blow, and, confequently, it was not the time of the greateít heats ; ; thefe prevailing in the months of Augult, Sep- tember, and October. THoven this climate would naturally be fuppofed to produce the fame plants with others in the fame lati- tude, it is very different. Nor does this feem to pro- ceed! from any defect in the foil, but from the fondnefs of the inhabitants for trade, and their total negle@t of agriculture, as too laborious. But, be the real caufe of it what it will, this is certain, that even in the parts contiguous to the city, the land is left entirely to na- ture; nor does the leatt veftige. remain of its being formerly cultivated. From hence proceeds a {carcity of all things, and, consequently, they are fold at a high EZ Cu. lll. SOUTH AMERICA. 123 high price. Here are no pulfe or pot-herbs of any Ras ; and that this is not owing to the fterility of the earth, we had an evident proof in a ímall garden, be- longing to a Gallician, where all things of this kind were produced in great plenty. By this means Pa- nama is under a neceflity of being fupplied with every thing, cither from the coaft of Peru, or places in its own jurifdiétion. CHAP IV Of the ufual Food of the Inhabitants of Panama. HE very want of provifions caufes the tables at Panama to be better furnifhed; and it may be truly faid, that this city fubfifts wholly by commerce, whatever is confumed in it coming from other places. The fhips of Peru are continually employed in ex- porting goods from that country, and the coafting barks in bringing the products of the feveral places in its jurifdiction and that of Varaguas. So that Panama is plentifully furnifhed with the beft of wheat, maize, poultry, and cattle. Whether it be owing to the fuperior goodneís of their food, the temperament of the climate, or to fome other cauíe to me unknown, it is certain that the inhabitants of this city are not fo meagre and pale as thofe who live at Carthagena and Porto Bello. Their common food is a ereature called guana. It is amphibious, living equally on the land and in the water. It refembles a lizard in fhape, but is fome- thing larger, being generally above a yard in length : fome are confiderably bigger, others lefs. It 1s of a yellowith-greem colour, but of a brighter yellow on the belly than on the back, where the green predo- minates. It has four legs like a lizard; but its claws are much longer in proportion; they are joined by a web, 124 A VOYAGE TO Boox UL web, which covers them, and is of the lame form as thofe of geefe, except that the talons at the end of the toes are much longer, and project entirely out of the web or membrane. lts fkin is covered with a thin ícale adhering to it, which renders it rough and hard; and, from the crown of its head to the begin- ning of its tail, which is generally about half a yard, runs a line of vertical fcales, each feale being from one to two lines in breadth, Se three or four in length, feparated io as to reprefent a kind of faw. But from the end of the neck to the root of the tail, the fcales gradually Icflen, fo as, at the latter part, to be Ícarce vifible. Its belly is, in largenefs, very difproportion- able to its body; and its teeth feparated, and very tharp pointed. On the water it rather walks than fwims, being fupported by the webs of its feet; and on that plement its fwiftneís is fuch, as to be out, of fight in an inftant; whereas on the land, though far from moving heavily, its celerity 1s greatly jist When pregnant, its belly {wells to an enormous fize ; and in- deed they often lay fixty eggs at a time, each ‘of which is as large as thofe of a pigeon. ‘Thefe are reckoned a great dainty, not only at Panama, but in other parts where this creature is found. ‘Thefe eggs are all in- clofed in a long,. fine membrane, and form a kind of firing. The flefh of this animal is exceedingly white, and univerfally admired by all ranks. I tafted both the flefh and the eggs, but the latter are vifcid in the mouth, and of a very difagreeable tafte : when drefled, their colour is the fame, with that of the yolk of a hen’s egg. The tafte of the flefh is fomething bet- ter; but, though fweet, has a naufcous fmell. The oun however, compared it to that of chicken; though I could not perceive the leaft fimilarity * Thefe * The flefh of the guana is whiter than chicken, and more pleaf- ing to moft palates, except as to the dry mefs of it. The common fauce to it is lime pce, feafoned with Chian pepper, which fauce Ci. iv. SOUTH AMERICA. 1265 Thefe people, who, by being accuftomed:to feethem, forget the natural horror attending the fight of an alli- gator, delight in this food, to which the Europeans at firft can “hardly reconcile themfel ves. Here are two fingularities attributed to nature, and firmly believed by the inhabitants ; one in the plant called yerva del gallo; the other the double-headed ínake called la cabeca. Ir is conftantly afferted in this city, that its neigh- bourhood produces a fnake baving a ead at each exires -mity; and that from the: bite of each a poifon is conveyed equal in activity to that of the coral, or rattle-tnake; we could not bate the Cuidado of feeing one of this ftrange {pecies, though we uted ali the means in our power to gratify our curtofity : according to report, its ufual length is about half a yard, in figure perfecily refembling an earth-worm. . Its diatieter i is about fix or eight lines, and its head different from that. of other fnakes ; being of the fame dimenfions with its body. It is however very probable that the creature has only one head, and, from its refembling a tail, has been imagined to like two*. The inotión of itis ty flow, and its colour variegated with {pots of a paler ting. Tue herb AL del gallo, or cocks- herb, is so Benly valued here, that they affirm, if an incifion be made round the neck of that fowl, provide ‘d the verte- bra be not injarcd, on thea application of this herb, the wound immediately heals. Whatever confiruction we put upon this pretended cure, it can only be con- fidered as a mere vulgar notion; and I mention it here with no other intention, than to fatisfy the world that we were not ignorant of it. fauce the natives eat with their fith, flefh, and fowl. If the guana were to be had in England, I doubt not but it would be ranked among the greateft dainties. A. * This conjecture is very right. HH. DvurinG 126 A VOYAGE TO Boox III: Dur1NG our fiay at Panama we were very urgent with thofe. who related this ftory to procure us fome of the herb, that we might make the experiment ; but in this we were as unfortunate as in the article of the two-headed fnake, none being to be had. 1 have, however, fince been told, by perfons fettled in Pana- ma, that it was very common; a fufficient proof, in my opinion, that the fiory has no foundation ; for, if it was fo eafy to be had, and of fuch furprifing virtue, what reafon could they have for refufing to convince us by ocular demontiration ? It may have a fiyptic virtue, when none of the principal blood-veffels are injured; but that it can join them after being cut, together with the nerves and tendons when totally fevered, no perfon of any knowledge or judgment will ever be brought to believe. And if its effects are fo remarkably happy on poultry, it is furely natural to think it fhould have the fame on any other animal ; and, confequently, on the human {pecies. If this were the cafe, it would be of infinite value; and no foldier, efpecially, fhould be without it, as a few ounces of this grand reftorative would immediately cure the molt terrible wounds. | CHAP, Of the Trade and Commerce of Panama. ROM what has been faid, relating to the com- merce of Porto Bello in the time of the galleons, an idea may be formed of that of Panama on the fame occafion ; this city being the firft where the treafure from Peru is landed, and likewife the tiaple for the goods brought up the river Chagre,- ‘This commerce is of the greateft advantage to the inhabitants, both with regard to letting their houfes, the freight of vef- fels, the hire of mules and Negroes, who forming themíelves Cu. Y. SOUTH AMERICA. 127 ihemíelves into feparate bodies, draw along from Cruces large bales, or any brittle and delicate, wares ; the roads here, though the diftance is but thort by crofling the chain of Mountains called the Cordilleras, are in fome parts fo narrow, that a beaít of burden can hardly país along; and, confequently, an im- minent danger would attend the employing of mules ' for this fervice. _ Tuis city, even during ‘the abfence of the armada, is never without a great A usaber of firangers ; it bei ng the thoroughfare for all going to the ports of Peru, in the South Sea, as alío for any coming from thence to Spain. : to which muft be added, the continual trade carried en by the Peruvian fhips, which bring variety of goods, as meal of diffcrent forts, wines, brandy from grapes, or brandy caliilla, as it is called by all the Americans in thete parts, fugar, tallow, leather, olives, oil, and the like. The thips from Guayaquil bring cacao, and quinquina or jeluits bark; which always meet with a quick exportation here, efpecially in time of peace. All goods, particularly thofe of Peru, are fubject to great alterations in their prices, fo that on many occafions the owners loie confide rably, and fometimes their whole purehafe : on the other hand, there ¿are favourable opportunities, when they triple it, according to the plenty or fcarcity of the commodity. The different torts of meal are in particular fubjeét to this accident; they foon be- coming fo extremely vitiated by the great heat, that there is an abíolute neceflity for throwing them over- board. The wines and br Pas s, alfo, from the heat of the jars, contract a pitchy tafte,«and are foon un- ‘fit for ufe.. The tallow melts, becomes full of magygots, and turns into a kind of earth; the lame may be ob- ierved of other goods. dence, if the gain is foinctimes great, the rifk of the lo{s is*propor tional. Tue coafting barks, which make frequent trips from the adjacent ports, fupply the city with hogs, poultry, un E 128 A VOYAGE TO Boox MÍ. hung-beef, hogs-lard, plantanes, roots, and other eat- ables; with all which, this city, by the indufiry of others, is abundantly fupplied. Tue Peru and Guayaquil veflels, unlefs at the time when the armada ts here, return empty, except when they have an opportunity of taking Negroes on board ; as, while the affiento fubfifis, there isat Panama a fac- tory, or office, which correfponds with that at Porto Bello ; and hither the Negroes are brought, as being, in fome meafure, the ttaple for them, with regard to the kingdoms of Terra Firma and Peru. Tue prefident of Panama is invefted witha power of licenfing every year one or two fhips, which go to Sonfonate, el Realejo; and other ports in the pro- vince of Guatemala and New Spain, to fetch from thence tar, naphtha, and cordage, for the vetiels be- longing to the Panama trade; they carry thither fuch parts of the Peruvian goods as do not find a market at Panama; but few of the fhips which have ob- tained this permiffion return immediately; for the moit profitable part of their trade confifting of indigo, they make the bef of their way to Guayaquil, or other ports farther to the fouthward. ‘The dearnefs of pro- vifions in this city and its diftriét, occafioned by the large quantity required, and the great difiance from whence they are brought, is amply compenfated by the multitade and value of the pearls found in the oyfters of its gulf; and particularly thofe near the iflands del Rey, Tabaga, and others, to the number po 43; forming a fmall archipelaga. The firft to whom the Indians made this valuable dif {covery was Batco Nunez de Balboa, who, in his paflage this way, to make farther decena on the South Sea, was prefented with fome by ‘Tumaco, an Indian prince. At prefent they’ are found in fuch plenty, that there are few perfons of fubítance near Panama, who do not employ all, or, at leaft, part of their flaves in this fifhery, the manner of which not being .com- 2 ”monly Cu. Y. SOUTH AMERICA. 129 ‘monly known, it will not be improper to defcribe it here. Tue owners of the Negroes employ the moft proper perfons for this fifhery ; which being performed at the bottom of the fea, they muft be expert fwimmers, and capable of holding their breath a long time. Thefe they fend to the iflands, where they have huts built for their lodgings, and boats which hold eight, ten, or twenty Negroes, under the command of an officer. In thefe boats they go to fuch parts as are known to produce pearls, and where the depth of water is not above ten, twelve, or fifteen fathom. Here they anchor; and the Negroes having a rope _faftened round their bodies, and the other end to the fide of the boat, they take with them a fmall weight, to accelerate their finking, and plunge into the water. On reaching the: bottom, they take up an oyfie ¿Which they put under the left arm; the fecond the hold in their left hand, and the thea in their right: with thefe three oyfters, and fometimes another in their mouth, they rife to breathe, and put them in a bag. When they have refted themielves awhile, and recovered their breath, they dive a fecond time ; and thus continue, till they have either completed their tafk, or their ftrength fails them. Every one of thefe Negro divers is obliged daily to deliver to his malier a “xed number of pearls; fo that when they have got the requifite number of oyfters in their bag, they begin to open them, and deliver the pearls to the officer, till they have made up the number due to their mafter; and if the pearl be but formed, it is fufficient, without any regard to its being fmall or faulty. The remainder, how- ever large or beautiful, are the Negro’s own pro- perty, nor has the mafier the leaft claim to them; the flaves being allowed to feil them to whom they pleafe, though the mafier generally purchafes them at a very {mall price. Faz, K THES? $390 43 : A VOYAGE TO Book IL. Tuese Negroes cannot every day make up their number, as in many of the oyfters the pearl is not at all, or but imperfectly formed; or the oyfter is dead, whereby the pearl is fo damaged. as to be of no value; “and as no allowance ismade for fuch pearls, they mult make up their numbers with others. | Besipes the toil of this fihery, from the oyfiers _firongly adhering to the rocks, they are alfo in no fmall danger from fome kinds of fifh, which either feize the Negroes, or, by ftriking on them, crufh them by their weight againít the bottom. So that thefe creatures feem to know that men are robbing them of the moft valuable product of their element, and therefore make a vigorous defence againft their enemy. | ‘The fifhery on the whole coaft is obnoxious to the dame danger from thefe fifh ; butthey are much more gfrequent where fuch riches abound. The fharks and tintoreras, which are of am enormous fize, feed on the bodies of thefe unfortunate fifhermen; and the mantas, or quilts, either prefs them to death by wrap- ping their fins about them, or crufh them againft the rocks by their prodigious weight. The name manta has not been improperly given to this fifh, either with regard to its figure or property ; for being broad and long like a quilt, if wraps its fins round a man, or any other animal that happens to come within: fisreach, and immediately fqueezes it to death. This! fi refembles a thornback in fhape, but is prodigioufly larger. Every Negro, to defend himfelf againtt thefe ani-| mals, carries Tih him a fharp hitee with which, if the fith offers to affault bim, he endeavours to firike it in a part where it has no power to hurt him; on which | the fith immediately flies. The officers keep a watch- ful eye on thefe voracious creatures, and, on difcover- ing them, fhake the ropes faftened to the Negroes’ | bodies, that they may be upon their guard; many, on the divers being in danger, have thrown themielves into Ch. V. | SOUTH AMERICA. 131 into the water, with the like weapon, and haften down ‘ito their defence: but too often all their dexterity and precaution is not fufficient to protect the diver from ‘being devoured by thefe fith, or lofing one of his legs jor arms by their bite. Several ineffectual fchemes thave been practited, to prevent fuch melancholy ac- -"tidents. The .pearls ofthefe fifheries are generally of a good water, and lome very remarkable, botb in their Shape cand fize; butas there, isa difference in both thefe pro- perties, fo there is iy a difference in their water and * colour ; fome being highly valuable, and others as re- markably defective. Some of thefe pearls, though in- -deed but few, are fent to Europe, the greater. part _-being carried to Lima; where the demand for them is ‘very «great, being not only univerfally’ worn’ there ¿by all perfons of rank, but alfo fent from thence into the inland parts of Peru. Besipes thefe pearls, the kingdom of Terra Firma was formerly equally rématkable for the fine gold pro- duced by the mines in its territories ; and which con- fequently proved a very confiderable addition to its riches. Part of thefe mines were in the province of Veraguas, others in that of Panama; but moft, alfo the richeft, and whofe metal was of the fineft quality, were in the province of Darien ; and, on that account, “the confiaat object of the miners. But the Indians revolting, and making themfelves matters of the whole “province, there was a necefiity for abandoning thefe mines, by which means the greater part of them were loft; a few only remaining on the frontiers, which ftill yield a fmall quantity df gold.: Their produce might indeed be increaied, did not the fear of the fickle nature of the Indians, and the fmall confidence that can be placed on their apparent friendfhip, deter the mafiers of the mines (ot ‘taking proper meafures for improving them. K 2 Thoucr ; 132 A VOYAGE TO Boox III. Tuoucu the mines of Veraguas and Panama are not expofed to thefe dangers, yet they are not worked with more vigour than the others ; and this for two reafons: the firft is, that, befides their being lefs rich in metal than the others, the gold they yield is not of í0 good a quality as that of Darien: the fecond, and indeed the moft weighty, is, that as thefe feas, by theit rich produce of pearls, offer a more certain, and at the fame time a more eafy profit, they apply them- felves to this fifhery preferably to the mines. Some, indeed, though but few, are worked, befides thofe above mentioned, on the frontiers of Darien. Besipes the advantage arifing to Panama from its commerce, as the revenue here is not equal to the dif- burfements, a very confiderable fum of money is an- nually remitted hither from Lima, forthe payment of the troops, the officers of the audience, and others: in employment under his majefty. Char. wa: Extent of the Audience of Panama, in the King- dom of Terra Firma, 'HE city of Panama is not only the capital aa its particular province, but alfo of the whole king-- dom of Terra Firma, which confifts of the three pro- | vinces of Panama, Darien, and Veraguas. The firft is the feat of every branch ae the soverument, as being fituated between the other two; Darien lying on the eaft fide, and Veraguas on the welt Tue kingdom of Terra Firma begins northwards at the river of Darien, and ftretching along by Nom- bre de Dios, Bocas del Toro, Bahia del Almirante, is terminated wefiward by the river de los Dorados in the north fea ; and towards the fouth fea, beginning on the weltern part, it extends from Punta Gorda, in Cofta Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 133 Cofta Rica, by Punta de Mariatos, Morro de Puercos, to the gulf of Darien; whence it continues fouth- ward along the coaít, by Puerto de Pinas, and Morro Quemado, to the bay of St. Bonaventura. Its length from eaft to welt is 180 leagues, but, if meafured along the coaft, it exceeds 230; and its breadth, from north to fouth, is the fame as that of the ifthmus, which includes the whole province of Panama, and part of that of Darien. ‘The narroweft part of this ifthmus is from the rivers Darien and Chagre, on the north fea, to thofe of Pito and Camito on the fouth fea: and here the diftance, from fea to fea, is about 14 leagues. Afterwards it increafes ia breadth to- wards Choco and Sitara; and the fame weftward in the province of Veraguas, forming an interval of forty leagues from fea to fea. Atone this ifthmus run thofe famous chains of lofty mountains, called the Andes, which, beginning at fuch a prodigious diftance as the Terra Magellanica, traverfe the kingdom of Chili, the province of Buenos Ayres, and thence through the provinces of Peru and Quito; and from the latter, contract themfelves, as it were, for a palíage through this narrow ifthmus. Afterwards, again widening, they continue their courfe through the provinces and kingdoms of Nicaragua, - Guatemala, Cofta Rica, St. Miguel, Mexico, Guajaca, la Puebla, and others; with feveral arms or ramifica- tions, for firengthening, as it were, the fouthern with the northern parts of America. In order to give the reader a Laaiweheniite idea of this kingdom, 1 fhall {peak particularly of each of its three provinces, beginning with that of Panama as the principal. Moft of its towns and villages are fituated in fmall plains along the fhore, the reft of the country being covered with enormous and craggy mountains, uninhabited on account of their flerility. In this province are three cities, one town, a few forts, villages, and country feats; the names of K 3 which, 134 A VOYAGE TO Boox UI. which, with the tribes of the inhabitants, are here fub- joined, Tue cities are Panama, Porto Bello, and Santiago de Nata de los Cavelleros. The Ginatinn of the latter was firft difcovered, in the year 1515, by capiain Alonzo Perez de Ja Rua, at which time Nata was. prince of this diftrict. Gafpar de Eipinofa was frft commiflioned to people it, under the title of a town. li was afterwards taken and burnt by the Indians, but he rebuilt it, and called it a city. | It is large, but the chief houfes are only of earth, or unburnt bricks, and the others of mud walls. Its inhabitants area mixture of Spaniards and Indians. . Tue town called los Santos is a modern fettlement of Spaniards, who before lived at the city of Nata, but, with a view of avugn nenting their fortune by im- proving the ground, left the city; and the, inhabit- anis of the town are at prefent more in number than thofe of Nata. Its environs were firft difcovered by Rodrigo Valenzuela, and at that time contained an Indian town, governed by a prince called Guazan: the origin of the town fufiiciently fhews it is peopled by Spaniards and Indians. ‘Tue number of villages in this province is ‘very saint and of different kinds. . Nuestra Senora de Pacora, to which we give the preference, is inhabited by Mulattos and their defcendants. 2. San Chriftoval de Chepo owes its name to the caciques, or princes, Chepo and.Chepauri, and was difcovered in 1515,-by Tello de Guzman. Befides Indians, here is a company of foot, belonging to the garrifon of Panama, mofi of whom are tettled here with their families. SEVERAL Rancherias, or aflemblages of Indian huts, are under the jurifdiction of a villaire. Thefe Ran- cherias are fituated to the fouthward, in the fmall chafms or breaches of the mountains. ‘In Ch. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 135 In the favannahs of the river Mamoni are feveral fuch aflemblages of huts, and within the fame juril- diction; n amely, On he river de la Campana. In the breach of Curcuti. On the banks and at the mouth of the river Canas. | On the river del Platanar. On the river de Pinganti. On the river de Bayano. In thé breach de Terralbe. In that of Platanar. In that of Calobre. In that of Pugibay. In that of Marcelo. On the river de Mange. Under the jurifdiétion of the fame village are alfo the following Rancherias, fituated to the northwards. On the river del Playon. On the fmaller river de la Conception. On the river de Guanacati. On the river del Caco, or Mandinga. On the river de Sarati. 3. The village of San Juan, fituated on the road between Panama and Porto. Bello, is inhabited by Mulattos and their defcendants. 4. The village of Nuefira Sinor de la Confolation, a Negro fettlement. a “The village de la Santiffima Trinidad de Chame, difcovered by captain Gonzalo de Badajoz, and called Chame from its prince at that time, is inhabited by Spaniards and Indians. 6. The village of St. Ifidro de Quinones, Cifcovered by the fame officer, and then governed by its prince Totronagua: its prefent habitan Spaniards and Indians. 7. The village of St. Francifco de Paula, in the Cordillera; alío inhabited by Spaniards and Indians. K 4 : 8. The 136 A VOYAGE TO Boox III. 8. The village of St. Juan de Pononome, fo called from the name of its cacigue; its inhabitants are In- dians, who ftill retain the bow and arrow, at which they are very dexterous, and of an intrepid bravery. 9. The village of Santa Maria is fituated in a tract of land ditcovered by Gonzalo de Badajoz. The name of its laft prince was Efcolia; it is at pralnt wholly inhabited by Spaniards. 10. The village of Santo Domingo de Parita, the Jaft word being the name of its prince. It was for- merly inhabited wholly by Indians, but at prefent there are many Spaniards among them. 1. Taboga, Taboguilla, and other iflands, near which the pearl fitheries are carried on, were difco- vercd by the order of Pedro Arias Davila, the firft governor and captain-general of the kingdom of Terra Firma. In thefe iflands are houtes belonging to Spa- niards, and huts for the Negro divers. - . 12. The iflands del Rey were difcovered by Gafper de Morales and captain Francifco Pizarro. In thefe iflands fome Spaniards have houfes, betides great num- bers of Negro divers. Second Province of Terra Firma. Tue fecond province of this kingdom is that of Veraguas, of which the city of Santiago is the capital. The firft who difcovercd this coaft was admiral Chrif- _topher Columbus, iu 1503. To the river now called Veragua, he gave the name of Verdes-aguas, on ac- count of the green colour of its water; or, according to others, becaufe the Indians called it by that name in their language. But, however that be, it is from thisriver that the province derivesits name. In 1508, the captains Gafpar de Efpivofa, and Diego de Alvi- rez, renewed the difcovery by land; but being re- pulfed by prince Urraca, were obliged to content themfelves with a fettlement in the neighbourhood : and Cx. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 137 and even here the Spaniards were not able to maintain their ground againft the frequent incurfions of the In- dians; fo that finding the abfolute neceffity of a fironger fettlement, they built the city of Santiago de Veraguas on the fpot where it now ftands. Bes1bes this city the province contains two others, and feveral villages. The city of Santiago al Angel was founded in 1521 by Benediét Hurtado, governor of Panama: it has been twice defiroyed and rebuilt: the inhabitants partly Spaniards, partly Mulattos. Tue city of Nuefira Senora de los Remedios de Pueblo-Nuevo; the inhabitants the fame as thofe of the former. 1. The villages in this province are San Francifco de la Montana, inhabited by Indians ufing bows and arrows. 2. San Miguel de la Haya, inhabited by different forts of people. 3. San Marcelo de Leonmefa de Tabarana, inhabited _ by Indians. 4. San Raphael de Guaymi, by Indians, 5. San Philipe del Guaymi, by Indians. 6. San Martin de los Caftos, by Indians. 7. San Auguftin de Ulate, by Indians. 8. San Jofeph de Bugava, by Indians. 9. and ro. La Piedad, and San Miguel, by Indians. 11. San Pedro, and San Pablo de los Platanares, by Indians. 3 ‘12. San Pedro Nolofco, by Indians. 13. San Carlos, by Indians. Third Province of Terra Firma. Tue third province of Terra Firma is that of Da- rien, where the greater part of the inhabitants are wan- dering Indians, living without any religion, and in the moft fhocking barbarifm, which was indeed the motive 738 A VOYAGE TO: : Boox UL motive of their revolt... In. 1716 there was herea con- fiderable number of villages, Rancherias, and Doétri> nas *, whofe inhabitants had {worn allegiance to the king.of Spain, and therefore under the governors of Panama; though, at prefent, very few are remaining, Thofe remaining in the aboye- mentioned year, were, 1. The village and ftaple for the mines of ‘Santa, Cruz de Cana, a very confiderable fettlement of Spa- niards and Indians. 2. The village de la Conception de Sabalo, inhabited like the preceding, but‘lefs populous. 3. The village of San Miguel de Tayequa ; 3; 1n- habitants the fame. 4. Thevillage of San Domingo de Balfasy inhabit- ants like the others, being Spaniards and Indians. 5. Spanifh village, in the territory of Santa Marica. 6. The Doétrina San Geronymo de Yabira, a word in the Indian language fignifying Doncel, i.e..a virgin; and for this reafon the river near it is called Rio Don- cel, or Virgin river. 7. San Enrique de Capeti, or the fleepy. 8. Santa Cruz de Pucro. In the Indian language Pucro fignifies a fort of light wood, which, at Guaya- quil, is called Balía. 9. The Doctrina de San Juan de Tacaracuna, and Matarnati; the names of two of the mountains of the Andes, configuous to the community. 10. The Indian village of San Jofcph de Zete Gaati, is not a Doctrina. Zete-Gaati is the name of a kind of willow growing in the neighbourhood. Rancheras and Hamlets in the fouthern Parts. The hamlet of Nueftra Senora del Rofario de Rio rena * A sills given by the Jefuits, to Indian communities, which they have gather ted together and civilized, Other Cu, VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 139 Other hamlets on the rivers Zabalos, Balfas, and Uron. On the river Tapanacul. On the river Pucro. On the banks and at the mouth of the river Paya. At los Paparos, or the peafauts. On the river Tuquefa. On the river Tupita. On the river Yabifa. And at Chepigana. Rancherias and Hamlets in the northern Parts. On the river Queno. On the Seraque. On the Sutagunti. On the Moreti. On the Agrafenequa. On the Ocabajanti. On the Uraba. Aut thefe Doétrinas and communities were formerly of Indians, and not inconíiderable, fome of the latter confifting of 400 perfons; but their general number was between 150 and 200; from whence we may form an idea of the populoufnefs of thefe Doctrinas. But, to fave the trouble of computing the feveral in- habited places in this kingdom, as I thought proper to infert their names, I fhall conclude with a concife lift of all thefe places, which will affift the reader in forming fome idea of this country. Recapitulation of all the inhabited Places in the Kingdom of Terra Firma. . Four fortreffes. Six cities. One town of Spaniards and Indians. - Thirty- 140 A VOYAGE TO Book 11 Elever of Spaniards and Indians. Two of Mulattos and Negroes. Twenty-two of Indians, moft of them Doétrinas. Thirty-two Rancherias or hamlets, each containing feveral cottages fcattered among the breaches, along the fides of rivers and favannahs. Forty-three iflands, where the pearl-fifhery is carried on, fome of them in the bay of Panama, fome near the coaft of that city, and others fouth of Veraguas. | Thirty-five villages. BOOK Ca. L SOUTH AMERICA. 141 BOOK IV. Voyage from Perico Harbour to Guayaquil. CHAP. I. Voyage from Perico to the City of Guayaquil. Om tents and other neceflaries being ready, we all embarked on board the St. Chriftopher, cap- tain Don Juan Manuel Morel; and the next day, be- ing the 22d of February 1736, we fet fail; but having little wind, and that variable, it was the 26th at fun- fet before we loft fight of the land, the laft we faw being Punta de Mala. By remarks repeatedly made till we Joft fight of this lali point, and which agreed with obfervations, but differed from thofe by account, we found the fetting of the current to be S. W. 5° wefterly; which obferva- tion correfponded with the accounts given us by able pilots, who affured us it continued to 3 or 4 degrees of latitude; and, according to their farther informa- tion, we corrected our daily account at one mile and one fixth per hour; and found their information to be well founded. But it is neceffary to obferve, that, till our hip was off Punta de Mala, there was no vifi- ble current; and that, whilft we continued failing in the gulfof Panama, the latitude by account agreed with the obferved. From 142 .. A VOYAGE TO Boox IV. From the time we fet fail, till Punta de Mala bore from us N. W. 6° 30” wefterly, we continued to fteer -S.S. W. 1930” and 8° 30” wefterly : the winds varl- able with calms. AFTER pafiing Punta de Mala, we fteered $. be- tween 8° welterly and-2° 30* eafterly, till fix in the . evening of the firft of March 1736, when we dif- covered thé land contiguous to St. Matthew's bay. Upon which we ftood lo the S. W. to avoid a ledge of rocks, which runs three leagues into the fea, pad alfo the currents, which fet towards it, and Gorgona ba Tis ledge ar rocks was . diftovered in 1594, bya fhip’s friking on it. From St. Matthew’s bay, we, for fome hours, isthe: S. W. 6° 15’ wefterly; and the next dayS. E. 2 foutherly ; w Biel, being the third day, at one in the afternoon, brought us in fight of Cape St. Francis, ‘bearing N. 1 ea fierly. Accorptxe to the reckoning of Don George Juan, the difference of meridians between Panama and Cape St. Francis was 0° 36’; which nearly agrees with the map of thiscoaft. It mutt, however, be fuppofed that the diftance between each knot on the log-line was 47 feet by 53 royal inches, which is equal to 503 Englifh - feet: this confirms what we have already obferved, book J. chap. 1. and proves the juftnefs of our obier- vations on the currents. Havine weathered this cape, we ficered W. a" foutherly ; S. W. 3° wefterly ; and on the 6th and 7th S. 7° eaflerly, and S. E. 6° eafterly ; till on the 7th, at 8 in the morning; we again made Cape St. Francis, bearing N. 5° eafierly, and Cape Paflado S.; after which we coafted along f{#ore, obferving the moft- -remarkable parts, till the gth, when, at half an hour after three in the evening, we came to an anchor in Manta bay, in eleven fathom water, the bottom mud mixed Cu. Ts SOUTH AMERICA. eg ‘mixed with fand: Cape St. Lorenzo bearing W.S. W. and Monte Chritio S. S. E. 6° eafterly. Two reafons induced us to anchor here: the firtt was, that as part of the intention of our original voyage was to mealure fome degrees of the equator, befides thofe of the meridian ; and having been informed, at Panama, of the arial of this coaft, we were Srous of viewing it, in order to know wiket her, by forming our firft.bafe on its plains, the ferics of triangles anaitl be continued to the mountains contiguous 66 Quito: the fecond, the want of water and provifions ; ; for the feafon being pretty far advanced, we had flattered our- felves, sie at ‘Panama, with! falling in with, the brifas, and by that means on {oon reaching Guayaquil ; “and: had therefore taken in provifions only for fuch a ‘fhort voyage. ¿Is order to fatisfy ourfelves with regard to our firft and principal view, we all went on fhore on the 10th in the evening to the village of Monte Chrifio, about two leagues and a half from the coaft. But we foon found any geometrical operations to be impracti- cable there, the country being every where extremely “mountaiñous, and almott covered with prodigious “trees, an infurmountable obfruction to any fuch de- ‘fign. This being farther confirmed to us -by the Indian inhabitants, we determined to puriue our voyage to Guayaquil, and thence to Quito. | Ac- cordingly on’ the Aah we returned to the .coaft of Manta, where, whilft the fhip was taking in water and provifion, we employed ourfelves-in making ob- “fervations ; by which we found the latitude of this place to be 6° 56’ 55” fouth. But Mefirs. Bouguer and de “la Coridamine, refleAine that our flay at ‘Guayaquil would-be confiderab le before the feafon would permit the mules to come from Guaranda to catry us to the mountains, and defirous of making ‘the beft ufe of their time, determined to ftay here, in order to make further obfervations.on the longi- tude = 144 A VOYAGE TO Boox IV, tude and latitude, that they might afcertain the place where the equator cuts this coaft, examine the length of the pendulum, and make other obfervations equally important. Accordingly proper inftruments were left with them. On the 13th of the fame month of March, our vef- fel put to fea, keeping along the coaft, and pafled the next day within the ifland de la Plata. The 15th we ' began to lofe fight both of Cape St. Lorenzo, and alfo of the ifland; at one in the afternoon we fteered $. S. E. till the 17th, when we difcovered Cape Blanco, the fouth point of the bay of Guayaquil. From Cape Blanco we coafted along the bay, till, about noon on the 18th, coming to the mouth of the river Tumbez, we anedieha about half a league from the land the river's mouth bearing E. 5 degrees northerly, and the ifland of San‘a Clara, commonly called Amortajado, or Muerto, from its refemblhng the figure of a human corpfe, N. 4 deg. eafierly, in fourteen fathom water, and a muddy bottom. Some particular affairs of the captain of the fhip obliged us to remain here till the 2oth, when, at fix in the morning, we weighed; and at half an hour after fix in the evening, the ffrength of the current on the ebb obliged us to come to an anchor. Thus we continued anchoring every ebb, and failing during the flood. And here we found that the current always fets out of the bay, though with much lefs velocity on the flood than on the ebb; for we obferved that the tide never altered its direétion in 19 hoursanda half. The caufe of this phenomenon is fuppofed to be, the pro- digious quantity of water difcharged into it by the rivers. On the 23d, having come to an anchor off Punta de Arenas 1n the ifland of Puna, we fent on fhore for a pilot to carry in our fhip;.for, though the diftance was only feven leagues, the great number of fhallows in this fhort paílage rendered a precau- tion of this kind prudent, if not abfolutely necef- ' fary. Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 145 fary. And on the 24th, at feven in the morning, we fately anchored in Puna harbour; Cape Centinela bearing S. S. W. 2° 30’ wefterly, and Cape Maria Mandinga W. N. W. 1° 15” wefterly, diftant one quarter of a league. From Punta de Mala to St. Matthew's bay, we had the wind firft at N. and N. W.; afterwards it fhifted to the N. E. and during the laft day veered to the E N. E.; but when we came in fight of this bay, changed again to N. being preceded by rains, which continued till our arrival at Manta, the winds having fhifted to the S. E. fouth, and S. W. and weft, but with fome variations from all thofe points. _ T-wave already mentioned that at St. Matthew’s bay, it was not only the opinion of the pilots relating to the currents which fet towards Gorgona, but alfo our own experience, that induced us to alter our courfe, which was neceflary, in order to continue our voyage. All the reft of the coaft, from Cape St. Francis to Manta, they fet to the N. and this pre- vented us from getting to windward, and obliged us to tack, as the wind was contrary. In our paffage from Manta to Cape Blanco, the winds were not lefs favourable, continuing as before, except a few gales at N. W. and N. N. E. till we made the above cape. The currents here alfo fet to the northward; and from Cape Blanco to Puna har- hour, to feaward, that is, towards the weft; but, as we have before obferved, a greater velocity on the ebb than on the flood. Brine very defirous of obferving an eclipfe of the moon, which was to happen on the 26th of March, and our time for preparing for it being but fhort, we concluded to ftay at a little village fituated in this harbour; but finding thefe houfes, which were entirely built of canes, too weak to fupport the pen- dulum, we determined to make the beft of our way to Guayaquil; and accordingly, at half an hour aftez Voz. I. L eleven y 146 A VOYAGE TO Book IV. eleven at night, we left the fhip at anchor, and went to 'the city in a boat; and, at five in the evening of the esth, by the vigour b6 our rowers, we arrived at Guayaquil, notwithftanding the firength of the tide againit us. Here we immediately applied ourfelves to fettle the pendulum; but our diligence was en- tirely fruftrated, the air being fo filled with vapours, that nothing was to be feen. Ir may not be amifs here to infert the variations we obferved in different parts of the South Sea, in «the fame order with thofe obferved from Cadiz to Carthagena. rae Table of Variations obferved in feveral Parts of the South Sea, the Longitude reckoned from the Meridian of Panama. Latitudes. Longitude. | Variation. deg. min. deg. min. deg. min. S099 No 359 55 8 45E. 7 649 359 42 7 +34 PRUZO 359 31 PA 7 “02 : 359 18 77:59 ah 5 ~ 6358 21 7 34 a 0/156 359) 5 43 7} 20 00111036 359 06 8 29 oO 20 358 40 7 25 o 15 358 56 7 39 011225 359 o Sruugaz O 5,1 Monte Chrifto bearing S. E. 3 foutherly. 8 00 Istanp de la Plata, bearing Si i 45 wefterly, and Monte Chrifto E. $. EZ mn 46' 2 185. e) Cape Blanco S. S, W. > 30W. Punto. de Mero eaft 7° eh 8 diftant 3 leagues 100 ruidos SOUTH AMERICA. 147 On the coatt of Sumber, of which the go _datitude, by. obfervation was 3° 14” ' We fhould, for feveral days, have been: without «Knowing certainly the latitude, an object of the laft importance in any voyage, had not Mr.;Godin had the precaution.to take with him a Hadley’s quadrant. This ingenious, gentleman having been pitched upon ¿for the voyage to America, undertook a journey to , London, purely to purchafe feveral inftraments, and _among others. bought, that already mentioned ; and which proved of the greateft ufe to us, in finding the latitude during this paflage; a point the more dif- ficult, and neceflary, on account of feveral perplexing circumftances;, the courfe being fometimes north, fometimes fouth,, and the currents fetting in the fame direction. :Affifted by this inftrument, we were ena- bled to take the meridian altitude of the fun, whilft, from the denfity of the vapours which filled the at- mofphere, the fhadow. could: not be defined on the ufual inftruments. Pr CHE tl. Account of the Voyage from Perico to Puna. HE brifas, by their return, as we before ob- ferved, occafion an alteration in the weather of Panama, by introducing the fummer, as they alfo do in the paflage from Perico to Puna; or, more properly, to Cape Blanco: for, after the brifas have begun to blow at Panama, ‘they gradually increafe and fpread, in. oppofition to. the. fouth. winds, till, overcoming ihem,. they are fettled:. but their periods.are not always equal, either on the land or in the ocean. _Generally.the brifas do not reach: beyond the equator, ¿or are lo, faint, as often to be interrupted. by calms, or other. weak and. unfettled, winds. Sometimes, in- i) Dh al deed, 148 A VOYAGE TO Boox IV. deed, they have an extraordinary ftrength, being felt even to the ifland of Plata. But their greateft force is gradually increafed as we approach nearer to Pa- nama. Thefe winds, which blow from between the - N. and N. E. clear the atmofphere, free the coaft from fogs, and are not attended with tempefts of rain; but frequently fo fqually, efpecially between Cape Francifco and the Bay of Panama, that, without particular care and the utmoft difpatch in putting the fhip in a proper condition, they are ein dan- gerous. Ar the period of the brifas, the fures or fouth winds begin to blow; and, when fettled, are more violent than the former. But they do not, as many have imagined, blow always precifely from the fouth ; for they fthift from the S. E. even to the S. W. and their diftance from the S. is obferved to be greate(t at particular times. When they incline to the S. E. which is the land fide, they are accompanied with, violent, but happily fhort, tempefis of wind and rain. The fhips which trade from the coafts of Peru and Guayaquil to Panama, generally fail during the fures, in order to take the benefit of the north wind at their return; and, by that means, their voyages are eafily and expeditioufly perfcrmed. Sometimes, indeed, they fail with other winds, though they are generally longer at fea, in order to reach Paita; but often this diligence, or rather avarice, is lo far difappointed, that they ¿are obliged to put in at Tumaco, Acames, Manta, or Punta de Santa Elena, for provifions and water. Tuese are the principal winds in this paffage; and whatever changes may fometimes happen, they are not of any continuance, the fettled wind foon reco- vering its place. Tuer currents, in thefe parts, are not fo regular as the winds; for, during the brifas, the waters run from Morro de Puercos S. W. and W. to the height Ch: Mins SOUTH AMERICA. 149 height of Malpelo; and from thence E. and E. $. E. to Cape St. Francis, inclining fomething towards Gorgona. From Cape St. Francis their direction is S. and S. W. which eontinues for 30 or 40 leagues feawards, the firength of them being proportionate to that of the brifas. Durine the feafon of the fures, or fouth winds, the currents run N. and N. W. from Punta de Santa Elena, as far as Cape St. Francis, extending thirty or forty leagues feawards ; from hence they run with a great velocity eaít, as far as the meridian of Malpelo; and from Morro de Puercos $. E. along the coaít, though at fome diftance from it, and tending partly to the bay of Gorgona. But from the meridian of Mal- pelo to Morro de Puercos, they run with great vio- lence N. W. and W. Alfo in the paflage from Cape Blanco to Cape Santa Elena, a violent current runs weft from the river of Guayaquil, during its {wellings; but when the river is low, the current fets into Puna bay: the time of the former is during the brifas, and the latter in the feafon of the fures. Ar all times, in leaving Perico to fail to Guayaquil, or the coaft of Peru, care muft be taken to keep at a proper diftance from the ifland of Gorgona, many in- fiances having happened of fhips being loft either by this negligence, or, more frequently, by calms. It is alfo equally neceffary to be careful ot the ifland of Malpelo; but the latter is of the two the leaft dan- gerous, as the greateft detriment is only a longer delay of the voyage. Ir a fhip happens to come in fight of the ifland.of Gorgona, it will be found very difficult to get clear of it by ftecring either S. S. W. or even N. fo that the furefl method is to return towards Panama along the coaft, the currents there changing their direction ; at the fame time taking care not to keep at a great dife tance from it, to avoid being again carried ; away by the current, pick fets S. E, L 3 THE ro, A'VOYAGE TO: Book IV. Ter land all alone thecoaft from Panama to Santa! Elena is ofa middling height, except in fome parts, where” we’ difcern mountains at a vatt diftance, and? very high; being part of the Cordillera. Monte” Chrifto is ‘the ‘land-mark) of Manta, being avhigh mountain, and having a village of the fame: name at’ its foot). Inthe bays along ‘this.coaft, and particularly at the» mouths of rivers, it is dangerous to keeprclofe to the! fhore, there being ‘many fhallows not known even to? the pilots of the country. | In the bay of Manta, there) is one at the:diftance of three or four leagues from the: fhore; on: which feveral «(hips have: firuck ; but the: water is here fo fmooth; that all the :daintive they! fuftained: was, their heitig obliged to be immediately; .careened, .1n order to ftop the leaks a by the accident. In all this paffage a: ¡rough lea is Sekt met withs, for, if ‘it be fometimes agitated by: fquabls' and fhort' tempefts, it foon' fubBfides “after the! ftorm ‘is! over.’ Whilfi the fouth winds® prevail, fogs are very. fre»: guent, and fometimes fo: thick: as totally ‘to! preclude ali fight ofthe coaít. This we ourfelves partly expe rienced in our paÑfagós ; whereas, during the brifas;o1tr ¡$ quite the contrary ; the airis ferene; and the coaft fo’ clear asto be approached with confidenceand fafety. CHAP. Ill. Of our Stay at Guayaquil, and the Meafures taken for our Journey to the Mountains: Hh ipo hip. St. Chriftopher, which! we» left» at Puna, followed us fo foon; that:on the!26thim the evening fhe came’ to an anchor before the city; the next day all. our baggage and inftruments were a ie and we began our oblervations/for determin- ; "ing Cais. SOUTH AMERICA. 151. ing the'fituation of Guayaquil, with.regard to.its la- titude and longitude. The defire of fucceeding ren- dered us very attenlive to obferve an immerfion. of the fatellites of Jupiter, to make amends. for our difap- pointment of the eclipfe of the Moon; but we were in this equally unfortunate; the denfity of the vapours which filled the atmofphere rendered-our defign-abor- tive; but, the days being more favourable than the nights for aftronomical obfebdations, we took feveral meridian altitudes of the Sun, and never neglected any opportunities that offered, during the nights, of doing the fame with regard to fome particular {iars. Ox our arrival at Guayaquil, the corregidor of that city, whofe. greatocivility, together with that of all _ the: king’s officers and other perfons. of, diftinétion, deferves our acknowledgments, fent notice of it-to the corregidor of Guaranda, that he might order carriages tothe port of Caracol, for conveying us to the moun- tains» The paffage thither was thenvindeed impracti- cable; it being in this country the end of ‘winter, at. which time the roads are extremely bad, and the rivers fwelled fo as not tobe forded without the greateft rifle, and too wide for the bridges of this country. . Tre corregidor of Guaranda was then at Quito.on fome bufinefs of his office ; but the prefident and go- vernor of that province, Don Dionyfio de. Alcedoy Herrera, ordered him to return to his) juriídiétion _ without delay, for providing every thing neceffary- for our journey; fending, at the fame. time, circular orders to all the other corregidors, through whofe jurit- diétions we were to país to Quito, enjoining them not to be wanting in any kind of good office in their power, Every thing “being thus happily difpoled,-and advice arriving that the mules were on their way to Cargcol, where They arrived the 6th of May, we were no leís expeditious to embark on the river, which is the ufual paflage. There is indeed a road by land; but at all times extremely difficult and dangerous, on ac- L 4 count 152 ¿A VOYAGE TO Book 1V. count of the many bays and large rivers which muft be paffed; fo that no perfon travels this road but in fummer, and then only fuch as have no baggage, and are, befides, well acquainted with the country and the ferries. CHAP. IV, Defcription of Guayaquil. ds apli there is no certainty with regard to. the time when Guayaquil was tounded, it is/aniver- fally allawed to be the fecond city of Spanifh origin, both in its own province and the kingdom of Peru; it appearing, from ancient records preterved in its: ar- chives, that it was the next city founded) after San Miguel de Piura; and the foundation laid of Los Reyes, Remac, or Lima, being in 1534, or, accord- ing to others, in 1535, the building of Guayaquil. may be fixed between thofe two. years; but the pro- fperity it attained under its governor Belalcazar was of no long continuance, being, after feveral furious at- tacks, entirely deftroyed by the neighbouring Indians. It was, however, in 1537, rebuilt by captian Fran- cifco de Orellana. ‘The firft. fituation of Guayaquil was inthe bay of Charapoto, a little to the northward of the place where the village of Monte Chrifto now fiands ; from whence it was removed to the prefent {pot, which j is on the weft bank of the river of Guay- aquil, in 2° 11’ 217 of fouth latitude, as appeared from our obfervations. Its longitude was not deter- mined by any accurate obfervations: but, by com- puttgg it from thofe made at Quito, it is 297° 07h reckoning from the meridian of Teneriffe. On: its removal by Orellana, from its firft fituation, it was built on the declivity of a mountain called Cerillo Verde, and is now termed Ciudad Vieja, or the old. town. ex. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 153 town. Its inhabitants being afterwards ftraitened by the mountain on one fide, and by ravines or hollows made by floods of rain on the other, formed a defign, without entirely abandoning the place, to build the principal part of the city at the diltance of five or fix hundred toifes; which was accordingly begun in 1693; and for prelerving a communication with the old part, a. bridge of timber was erected, of about three hundred toifes in length, by which means the inconveniences of the ravines are avoided, and, the intervals being filled with fmall houfes, the old and new towns are now united. This city is of confiderable extent, taking up, along the bank of the river from the lower part of the old town to the upper part of the new, near half a league; _ but the breadth is not at all proportional, every per- fon being fond of having a houfe near the river, both for the amufements it affords, and for the benefit of refrefhing winds, which, in winter, are the more _ eagerly coveted as they are very rare. ~ ALL the houfes of both towns are built of wood, and many of them covered with tiles; though the greater part of thofe in the old town are only thatched; but in order to prevent the fpreading of fires, by which this city has feverely fuffered on feve- ral occafions, fuch covering is now prohibited. Moft of thefe conflagrations owed their rife to the malevo- lence of the Negroes, who, in order to revenge fome punifhments inflicted on them by their mafters, took the opportunity, during the night, of throwing fire on the thatch, and by that means not only ruined thofe who were the immediate objects of their revenge, but alfo the greater part of the inhabitants of the city. + Tuoveu the houfes are wholly built, of wood, they are generally large and beautiful; have all one ftory and an entrefole; the back part of the ground floor ferves for warchoufes; in the front are fhops of all kinds, 134 AVOYNGENTO 02 Boox LV. kinds) and : gonerally before ¡them fpacious porticoes, which in winter sare the only parts where you.can walk, the ftreets'being utterly impaflable. - As a’ further precaution againft fire, which they, have: fo much reafon. to dread, the kitchens, ftand: twelve ‘or fifteen paces from the houfes, with which they communicate by means ‘of a long open gallery,:- refembling a bridge ; but fo lightly built,: that,’ on the» leaft appearance of fire: in the kitchen, itis demolifhed inan inftant; by which means the houfe isipreferved. Perfons- of rank and ‘fortune live in the upper/apart- ments, and the entrefoles -are Jet. to: ftrangers | who: come- to trade, or’ país through) the city with, their goods. The ground on which the newicityis built, and the favannahs in its neighbourhood, are not to be travel- led over either on foot or horfeback during the win- ter; for, befides being .a fpongy -chalk, it ascevery where fo level, that: there is no declivity for:cartyimg: off the water; and therefore, ‘on the firft rain, it-be- comes’ one general flough. So:that, from the time: of the rains fetting in till the end of winter, it is mecef fary to lay ine the parts not covered by the above» mentioned piazzas, very large planks for: crofling over them: but thefe foon become flippery, and, oc- cafion frequent’ falisointo thes chalky flough., The: return of fummer, however, foon»exhales the water, and renders the: around fuficiently dry for travelling. In thisrefpeét the old town has: the advantage, being built'ona gravelly for, which: 1si never; impañable. Tris city is defended by three! forts, two! on the river mear the city, and the third behind it, guarding the entrance ofa ravine. Thefe arecalh built “alter the mo@trn method of fortification ; but, before they were erected, it’had only a platfornn, whichas (tlh remain- ing in the old town. Thefe forts are built of. large pieces of very hard: wood, forming a» variety of: pal- iifades, and ‘the wood: \is «particularly proper: for this country, "Ch.!IV: SOUTH “AMÉRICA, country, and the ufe it is here applied to; retaining its folidity either under the: water or in the mud. Before thefe fortifications were erected, the city was taken: by European corfairs, in the years 2686 and 1709; but the fuccefs of the latter was owing to the villany of a Mulatto, who, in order to revenge him- felf on fome particular perfons in the city, conducted | the enemy through a by-way, where they were not expected; fo that the inhabitants, being furprifed, were not prepared for defence. 155 Aur the churches and convents are of wood, except ’ that of St. Domingo, ftill ftanding in the old town, which is Tur colour of the pod, while growing, is green, neatly réfembling that of the leaf; but, when arrived: at its full perfection, itigradually changes to a yellow. The fhell which covers it is thin, fitiouttr, and clear. When the fruit is arrived:at its full growth, it is ga. thered ; and being cut into flices, its pulp appears white dnd: j juicy, with fmall feeds re: ularly arranged, and-at that time of no greater confiftence than the refi of the pulp, but:whiter, and contained by a very fine delicate membrane,: full of liquor, refembling: milk, but tranfparent, and fomething viicid ; at this time it may be eaten like: any other fruit. Its tafte is a {weetith acid; but in. this country is thought to be promotive of fevers. “Phe yellownefs of the pod in- dicates thatthe cacao begins to feed on its fubfiance, to acquire a greater confift ence, and that the feeds begin to fill ; the colour gradually tading till they are fully completed, when the dark brown colour of the fhell, into which the yellow has deviated, indicates that it is a proper time to gather it. The thicknefs of the fhell is now about two lines, and each fecd found inclofed in one of the compartments formed hy the tranfverfe membranes of the pod. After ga- thering the fruit, it is opened, and the feeds taken 4 out , 176 _ A VOYAGE TO - Boox IV. out and laid on {kins kept for that purpofe, or more generally on vijahua leaves, and left in the air to dry. When fully dried, they are put into leather bags, fent to market, and fold by the carga or load, which is equal to eighty-one pounds; but the price is far from fixed, being fometimes fold for fix or eight rials per carga, though lets than the charge of gathering; but the general price is between three and four dollars, and, at the time of the armadas, when the demand is very large, rifes in proportion. Tunis tree produces its fruit twice a year, and inthe fame plenty and goodnefs. The quantity gathered throughout the whole jurifdiction of a amounts at Jeaft to 50,000 cargas. Tue cacao trees delight fo exceffively in water, that the ground where they are planted muft be reduced, to: a mire; and if not carefully fupplied with water, they die. They muft alío be planted in the fhade,. or at Jeaft defended from the perpendicular rays of the fun. Accordingly, they are always placed near other larger trees, under the fhelter of which they grow and flou- riíh. No foil can be better adapted to the nature of thefe trees than that of Guayaquil, as it favours them in both refpeéts; in the former, as confifting wholly of favannahs or wide plains overflowed in winter, and in fummer plentifully watered by canals; and with regard to the latter, it abounds in other trees, which afford them the requifite fhelter. | Aut the eare neceflary in the culture of this tree confifis in-clearing the ground from the weeds and — fhrubs abounding in fo wet a foil: and this is fo necef- fary, that, if negl lected, in a few years thefe vegetables will defiroy the cacao plantations, by robbing the foil: of all its nourifhment. | Tue laft lieutenancy to be deferibed, is that of : Daule. The principal town is of the fame name, and wathed by the river, to which it owes its appellation. It contains many fpacious houfes belonging to the in- habitants Ci: VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 177 habitants of Guayaquil. It is alío the refidence of a lieutenant and a parifh prieft, having under their in- fpection the two towns of Santa Lucia and Valfar. Here are a great number of plantations of tobacco and fugar- canes, cacao, and cotton; together with large orchards of fruit-trees, and extenfive corn- fields. Tue river Daule, which, like that of Baba, dif- charges itíelf into Guayaquil river, is very large, and on both a great trade is carried on with that city. By the former, it receives the great plenty and va- riety of fummer fruits, and a cincel part of the plantanes, which conflitute the bread ufed there du- ring the whole year. Though great quantities of to- bacco grow in other parts of the jurifdiction of Guaya- -quil, yet none ¡rte that of Daule. Tue butinefs of grazing is followed in all thefe Hbinantim: ; but more or qee in proportion to their extent, the nature ofthe foil, and the conveniency of driving the cattle to the mountains, beyond the reach of the inundations. CHAP OTK, Defeription of the River of Guayaquil, and of the Malet trading on it. de ml river of Guayaquil being the channel of the commerce of that «place, it will be proper to give fome account of it, in order to affift the rea- der in forining an idea of the trade carried on in that city. Tue diftance of the navigable part of this river, from the city to the cuftom-houfe at Babahoyo, the place where the goods are landed, is, by thofe who have long frequented it, commonly divided into reaches, of which there are twenty, its courfe being Vou, 1. N wholly 278 A VOYAGE TO Boox IV. wholly ferpentine; but to Caracol, the landing-place ' in winter, there are twenty-four reaches, the longeft of which are the three neareft the city; and thefe may be about two leagues and a half in length, but the others not above one. Whence it may be in- ferred, on an average, that the difiance, meafured on — the furface of the river, between Guayaquil and the cuttom-houfe of Babahoyo, is twenty-four leagues and a half, and to Caracol twenty-eight and a half. The time requifite to perform this paflage is very dif- ferent, according to the feafon, and nature of the veffel. During the winter, a chata generally takes — up eight days in going from Guayaquil to Caracol, being againft the current of the river; whereas two days are fufficient to perform the paflage downwards. | In fummer a light canoe goes up in three tides, and returns in little more than two; the fame may be © faid of other veffels, the pafflage downwards being -always performed in much lefs time than the other, ' on account of the natural current of the river, in the — reaches near the cuftom-houfe, where the firongeít : flood only fiops the water from running downwards, | Tue diftance from Guayaquil to lla Verde, fituated * at the mouth of the river in Pana bay, is by pilots © computed at about fix leagues, and divided, like the — ‘other part, into reaches; and from Ifla Verde tol Puna three leagues: fo that the whole diftance from * Caracol, the mofi inland part up the river, to that of Puna, is thirty-feven leagues and a half. Between, Jfa Verde and Puna it widens fo prodigioufly, that the horizon towards the north and fouth is bounded : by the fky, except in fome few parts nora where the plantations of mangroves are perceived. * Tue mouth of the river at the Ifla Verde is about a league in breadth, and even fomething breader at Guayaquil, above which it contracts itfelf as it ad- ‘vances nearer the mountains, and forms other creeks, the mouthof. one of which, called Eftero de Santay, . faces Cn. 1X. .. SOUTH AMERICA. . 1709 faces the city; another, termed Lagartos, is near the cuftom-houfe at Babahoyo. Thefe are the largeft, and at the fame time extend to fuch a diftance ‘from the principal river, as to form very confiderable iflands. The tides, as we have before obferved, in fummer- time reach up to the cuftom-houfe, checking the ve- locity of the waters, and conféquently caufing them to fwell; but, in winter, the current being ftronger and more rapid, this increafe of the water is vifible only in the reaches near Guayaquil ; and in three or four different times of the year the great velocity of the current renders the tides impe ceptible : the firft of this feafon happens about Chrifimas. Tue principal caufe of the fwellings of this river _ arifes fromthe torrents rufhing down from the Cordil- lera into it. For though rain is frequent here, great part of the water is received by its lakes, or ftagnates ón the plains: fo that the increafe of the river is en- tirely owing to the torrents from the mountains. One particular inconvenience of thele floods is, their -fhifung the banks of fand lying between the city and Ifla Verde ; fo that no fhips of any confiderable burden can go up with fafety, without continually founding with the lead, unlefs care has been taken to mark the _ hanks fince their laft change. Tus borders of this river, like thofe of Yaguache, Baba, and Daule, as well as thofe of the creeks and canals, are decorated with country-feats, and cottages _ of poor people of all cafis, having here both the con- venience of fifhing and agriculture ; ; and the interme- diate {paces filled ‘with fueh a variety of thickets, that art would find it difficult to imitate the delightful land- {cape here exhibited by nature. THE principal and moft common materials ufed in buildings on thete rivers, are canes, whofe dimenficns and other particulars. fhall be taken notice of in their place. Thefe alío form the inward parts, as walls, floors, and-rails of the ftairs; the larger houtes differ IN 2 only 180 A VOYAGE TO Boor IV. only in fome of the principal pieces, which are of wood. ‘heir method of building is, to fix in earth, eight, ten, or twelve pieces of wood, more or lefs, according to the dimenfions of the houfe, forked at the top, and of a proper length, all the apartments being on the firft ftory, without any ground floor. Beams are then laid acrofs on thefe forks, at the diftanceof four or five yards from the ground. On thefe beams canes are laid in {uch a manner as to form a kind of rafters, and over thefe boards of the fame canes a foot‘and a half in breadth, which form as firm and handfome a flooring as if of wood. ‘The partitions of the feveral apartments are of the fame materials, but the outer walls are generally latticed, for the free admiffion of the air. The principal beams of the roof of large houfes are of timber, the rafters of cane, with {maller, in a tranfverfe direction, and over thefe vijahua leaves *. Thus a houfe is built at very little expente, though containing all the necef- fary conveniences. With regard to the poorer fort, every one’s own. Jabour fufhces’ to procure him a habitation. He goes up a creek ina {mall canoe, and from the firft wood cuts down as many canes, vijahuas, and bejucos +, as he wants, and, bringing the whole | to the fhore, he makes a balza or float, on which he © loads his other materials, and falls down the river to the place where he intends to erect bis cottage. After which, he begins his work, faftening with bejucos | thofe parts which are ufually nailed; and, in a few days, finifhes it in the completeft manner. Some of thete cottages are almoft equal in dimenfions to thofe of timber. Tue lower part, both of thefe houfes, as well as thofe in the greater part of the juriídiétion of Gua- yaquil (which are of the fame form), are expofed to * This leaf is three or four feet long, and about one broad. A. $ A long pliant twig, ufed as a cord by the natives; defcribed B. Vv. Ch. I. As : ; e all | | MON. Ts" SOUTH AMERICA. | 181 all winds, being entirely open, without having any wall, or fence, except the pofts or ftancheons by which the building i is fupported. For whatever coft was expended on the ground floor, it would be wholly ufelefs in the winter, when all the country is turned to mud. Such houfes, however, as ftand beyond the reach of inundations, have ground floors, walled and finithed like the other apartments, and ferve as ware=. houfes for goods; but thofe within the inundations are built, as it were, in the air, the water having a free paflage under them. All the inhabitants have their canoes for paffing from one houfe to another, and are {fo dexterous in'the management of thefe fkiffs, that a little girl ventures alone in a boat fo fmall and flight, that any one lefs fkilful would overíet in ftep- ping into it, and without fear croffes rapid currents, which an expert failor, not accufiomed to them, would find very difficult. és | The continual rains in winter, and the flightnefs of the materials with which thefe houfes are built, render it neceflary to repair them during the fummer; but thofe of the poorer fort, which are low, muft be every year rebuilt, efpecially thofe parts biel confift of cane, bejuco, and vijahua, while the principal ftancheons, which form the foundation, ftill continue ferviceable, and able to receive the new materials. From the houfes I proceed to give an account of the veflels, which (omitting the Chatas and canoes. as common) are called Balzas, 1. e. rafts. The name fufficiently explains their conftruétion, but not the me- thod of managing them, which thefe Indians, firangers to the arts and fciences, have learned from neceffity. Tuese Balzas, called by the Indians sng adas *, are compofed of five, feven, Gr nine beams of a fort of wood, which, though known here only by the name * They are the fame that are called Catamorans in the Eaft In- dies. A. N 3 of 182 A VOYAGE TO | Boox IV, of Balza, the Indians of Darien called Puero; and, in all appearance, is the ferula of the Latins, men- tioned by Columella; Pliny takes notice of two fpe- cies of it, the lefler by the Greeks called Nartechia, and the larger Narthea, which grows to a great height. Nebrija calls it 1n Spanith Canta Beja, or Canna Heja. Don George Juan, who faw it growing in Malta, found no other difference betwixt it and the Balza or Puero, only the Canna Beja, called ferula by the Maltefe, is much 1maller. The balza is a whitifh, foft wood, and fo very light, that a boy can eafily carry a log of three or four yards in length, and a foot in diameter. Yct, of this. wood are formed the Janjades or Balzas, reprefented in Plate IV. Qver, part of it is a ftrong tilt, formed of reeds. Inflead of a matt, the fail is hoified on two poles or fheers of mangrove wood, and thofe which carry a forefail have two other poles erected in the fame manner... BaLzas are not only ufed on rivers, but {mall voy- ages are made at fea in them, and fometimes they go ~ as far as Paita. ‘Their dimenfions being, different, they are alfo applied to different ules; fome of them being fifhing Balzas; fome carry all kinds of goods from the cuftom- houíe to Guayaquil, and from thence to Puna, the Salto de Tumbez, and Paita; and others, of a more curious and elegant confiruCion, ferve for removing families to their eftates and coun- try-houtes, having the fame convenience as on fhore; not being the Jeaft agitated on the river ;;and that they have fufficient room for accommodations, may be inferred from the length of the beams, which are twelve or thirteen toifes, and about two feet or more in diameier: fo that the nine beams of which they confilt, forma breadth of between twenty and twenty- four Paris feet; and proportional in thofe of teven, or any other number of beams. Turse beams are {aftened or lafhed together by bejucos, and fo ie that with the crofs- - pieces ys eac x Ca. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 183 éach end, which are alfo lafhed with all poffible firength, they refift the rapidity of the currents in their voyages to the coaft of Tumbez and Paita. The Indians are fo {kilful in fecuring them, that they never loofen, notwithftanding the continual agitation; though by their negle@ in examining the condition of the bejucos, whether they-are not rotten ot worn, fo as to require others, there are fome melanc hóly j in- ftances of Balzas, which, in bad weather, have fepa- _ rated, and, by that means, the cargo loft, and the paflengers drowned. With regard to the Indiatis, they never fail of getting on one of the beams, which is fufficient for them to make their way to the next port. One or two unfortunate accidents of this kind _ happened even while we were in the jurifdiction of Quito, purely from the favage careletinefs of the Indians. | TOT re thicken beam of thofe which compofe the Balza, is placed fo as to project beyond the other in its after-part ; and to this are lathed the firft beams on each fide, and thus, fucceffively, till the whole are fe- cured; that in the middle being the principal piece, and thence the number of beams is always odd. The larger fort of Balzas generally carry between four and five hundred quintals, without being damaged by the proximity of the water; for the waves of the fea never run over the Balza; neither does the water fplafh up between the beams, the Balza always fol- lowing the motion of the water. Hifuerto we have only mentioned the confiric- tion and the ufes they are applied to; but the greatelt fingularity of this floating vebicle is, that it fails, tacks, and works as well in contrary winds, as ihips with a keel, and makes very little lee-way. his ad- vantage it derives from another method of fteering than by a rudder; namely, by fome boards, three or four yards in length, and half a yard in breadth, called Guaras, which are placed vertically, both in the N 4 head 184 A VOYAGE TO Boox IV, head and ftern between the main beams, and by thrufiing fome of thefe deep in the water, and raifing others, they bear away, luff up, tack, he to, and perform all the other motions of a regular fhip: an invention hitherto unknown to the moft intelligent nations of Europe, and of which even the Indians know only the mechanifm, their uncultivated minds having never examined into the rationale of it. Had this method of fteering been fooner known in Europe, it would have alleviated the diftrefs of many a fhip- wreck, by faving numbers of lives; as in 1730, the Genovefa, one of his majefty’s frigates, being loft on the Vibora, the thip’s company made a raft ; but com- mitting themfelves to the waves, without any means of directing their courfe, they only added, fome, me- Jancholy minutes to the term of their exiftence. Such affeGing infiances induced me to explain the reafon' and foundation of this method of fteering, | in, order to render it of ufe in fuch calamitous junctures; and, that I may perform it with the greater accuracy, I - íhall make ufe of a fhort memoir, drawn up by Don ¡George Juan. THE direction, fays he, in which a a moves before the wind, is perpendicular to the fail, as Meff Renau, in the Theorie de Maneuvres, chap. li. art. 1. Bernouilli, cap. 1. art. 4. Pitot, fect. ii. art. 13. have demonfirated. And re-action being contrary and equal to the action, the force with which the water oppofes the motion of the veffel, will be applied in a perpen- dicular direction to the fail, and continued from lee- ward to windward, impelling with more force a greater body than a {maller, in proportion to the fuperficies, and the fquares of the fines of the angle of incidence, fuppofing their velocities equal. Whence it follows, that a Guara being fhoved down in the fore-part of the veítel, muít ele her luff up; and by taking it out, fhe will bear away or fall off. Likewife on a Guara’ s being fhoved down at the fiern, the will bear away; , Ca. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 185 away; and by taking it out of the water, the Balza will luff, or keep nearer to the wind. Such is the method ufed by the Indians in fteering the Balzas ; and fometimes they ufe.five or fix Guaras, to prevent the’ Balza from making lee-way; it being evident, that the more they are under water, the greater re- fiftance the fide of the veffel meets with; the Guaras performing the: office of lee-boards, ufed in fmall veflels. . The method of fteering by thefe Guaras is fo eafy and fimple, that when once the Balza is put in her proper courfe, one only is made ufe of, raifing or lowering it as accidents require; and thus the Balza is always kept in her intended direction. We have before obferved, that this river and its creeks abound in fith, which for fome time in the year afford employment for the Indians and Mulattos in- habiting its banks, and for which they prepare to- wards the end of fummer, having then fown and reaped the produce of their little farms. All their preparatives confift in examining their Balzas, giving them the neceflary repairs, and putting up a frefh tilt of vijahua leaves. This being finifhed, they take on board the neceflary quantity of falt, harpoons, and darts. With regard to their provifion, it confifts only of maize, plantanes, and hung beef. Every thing being ready, der put on board the Balzas their cabos: their families, and the little furniture they are — of. With regard to the cattle and horfes, of ich every one has a few, they are driven up te winter in the mountains. Tue Indians now fieer away to the mouth of fome dl, where they expect to take a large quantity of fith, and ftay there during the whole time of the fifhery, unlefs they are difappointed in their expecta tions; in which cafe they fteer away to another, till they have taken a fufficient quantity, when they re- turn to their former habitations; but not without taking with them vijahua leaves, bejucos, and canes, for eN A VOYAGE TO Book IV. tor making the neceffary ‘repairs. When the com- munication is opened with the provinces of the Cor- dilleras, and the cattle begin to return into the plains, they carry their fifa to the cuftom-houfe of Babahoyo, where they fell it; and, with the, produce, purchafe baize, tucuyo, and other fuffs, for clothing them- felves and families. Tuer method of fifhing is thus: Having moored their Balza near the mouth of a creek, they take their canoes, with fome harpoons and fpears, and on fight of a fith make towards it, till they arrive at a proper diftance, when they throw their {pear at it with fuch dexterity, that they feldom mifs; and if the place abounds in fith, they load their canoes in three or four hours, when they return to their Balzas to falt and cure them. Sometimes, efpecially in places where the creeks form a kind of lake, they make ufe of a certain herb:called Barbafco, which they chew, mix with fome bait, and fcatter about on the water. The “juice of this bérb; is fo ftrong, that the fith on eating a very little of it become inebriated, fo as to float on the furface of the water, when the Indians have no other trouble than to take them up. This juice is actually fatal to the fmaller fith, and the larger do not recover for fome time; and even’ thefe, if they have eaten a confiderable quantity, perifh. ‘It is natural to think, that fith caught in this manner muft be'prejas dicial' to health ; but experience proves the contrary; and accordingly the mof; timorous make no difficulty of eating them. ‘Their next method of fifhing is with nets; when they form themíelves into companies, for the better management of them. Taw largeft fortof fifth caught here is called Bagre, fome of which area yard.and a half long; but flabby, and of aus ill taíte, fo that they are never eaten freíh. The Robalo, a fort of large trout, is the moft rad: ; but being vic taken in the creeks a great way Ca. IX SOUTH AMERICA. 184 way above Guayaquil, the diftance will not admit their being brought to that city. ¿Tue increafe of fifh in this river is greatly hin- dered by the prodigious numbers of alligators, an amphibious creature, living both in the rivers and the adjacent plains, though it is not often known to go far from the banks of the river. When tired with fithing, they leave the water, to bafk themfelves in the fun, and. then appear more like logs of half-rotten wood thrown afhore by the current, than living crea- tures; but upon perceiving any vellel near them, they immediately throw themíelves into the water. Some are of fo monftrous a fize as to exceed five -yards in length. During the time they ¡ie baíking on - the hore, they keep their huge mouths wide open, - till filled with mofchitos, flies, and other infects, when they fuddenly fhut their jaws and fwallow their prey. Whatever may have been written with regard to the fiercenefs and rapacity of this animal, I and all our company know, from experience, they avoid a man, and, on the approach of any one; immediately plunge into the'water. Their whole body is covered with fcales impenetrable to. a mufket-ball, unleís it happens to bit them in the belly near the forelegs; the only part vulnerable. : bs | - Tue alligator is an oviparous creature. The'fe- male makes a large hole in the fand near the brink of a river, and there depofits her eggs; which areas white as thoíe of a hen, but much more folid. She generally lays about a hundred, continuing in the fame place till they are all depofited, which is about _aday ortwo. She then covers them with the fand ; and, the better to conceal them, rolls herfelf not only over her precious depofitum, but to a confiderable diftance. After this precaution, fhe returns to: the water till natural inftinét informs her that it is time to deliver her young from their confinement; when the comes to the fpot, followed by the male, and tearing - Y 188 A VOYAGE TO Boox IV. tearing up the fand, begins breaking the eggs, but fo carefully, that farce a fingle one is injured ; anda whole fwarm of little alligators are feen crawling about. The female then takes them on her neck and back, in order to remove them into the water; but the watchful gallinazos make ufe of this oppor- tunity to deprive her of fome; and even the male alligator, which indeed comes for no other end, de- vours what he can, till the female has reached the water with the few remaining; for all thofe which either fall from her back, or do not fwim, fhe herfelf eats; fo that of fuch a feoniiidelsid brood, bappily not. more than four or five efcape. Tue gallinazos, mentioned in our account of Car- thagena, are the moft inveterate enemies of the alli- gators, or rather extremely fond of their eggs, in finding which they make ute of uncommon addrefs, Thete, birds often make it their whole bufineís to watch the females during the fummer, the feafon when they lay their eggs, the fands on the fides of the river not being then covered with water. The galli- nazo perches in fome tree, where it conceals itfelf among the branches, and there filently watches: the female alligator, till fhe has laid her eggs and retires, pleafed that fhe has concealed them beyond difcovery. But fhe is.no fooner under the water, than the galli- nazo darts down on the repofitory, and, with its beak, claws, and wings, tears up the fand, and devours:the eggs, leaving only the fhells. This banquet. would indeed richly reward its long patience, did not a mul- titude of gallinazos, frem all parts, join the fortunate difcoverer, and fhare in the fpoil. Ihave often been entertained with this ftratagem of the gallinazos, in pafling from Guayaquil to the cufiom-houfe of Baba- hoyo; and my curiofity once led me:to take fome of the eggs, which thofe who frequent this river, par- ticularly the Mulattos, make no difficulty of eating, when frefh. Here we muft remark the methods ufed by Cx.1X. SOUTH AMERICA. 189 by Providence in diminithing the number of thefe deltruétive creatures, not only by the gallinazos, but even bythe males themfelves Indeed, neither the river nor the neighbouring fields would otherwife be fufficient to contain them; for, notwithftanding the ravages of thefe two iniatiable enemies, their numbers can hardly be imagined. These alligators are the great deftroyers of the fifth 30 this river, it being their moft fafe and general food; nor are they wanting in addrefs to fatisfy their defires ; eight or ten, as it were by compact, draw up at the mouth of a riveror creek, whilft others goa confider- able difiance up the river, and chafe the fifth down- wards, by which none of any bignefs efcape them. The alligators, being unable to att under water, on feizing a fith, Telit their heads above the furface, and by degrees draw. the fith from their jaws, and chew it for deglutition. After fatisfying their appetite, they retire to reft on the banks of the river. W Hen they cannot find fifh to appeafe their hunger, they betake themfelves to the meadows bordering on the' banks, and devour calves and colts; and, in order to be more fecure, take the opportunity of the night, that they may furprife them io their fleep; and it is obferved, that thofe alligators which have once tafted fleth, become fo fond of it, as never to take up with fifth but in cafes of neceffity. ‘There are even too many melancholy inftances of their devouring the human ípecies, efpecially children, who, from the in- attention natural totheir age, have been without doors after it is dark; and though at no great diftance, theíe voracious animals have dared to attack them, and having once feized them, to make fure of ther prey againtt that affiftance which the cries of the victim never fail to bring, halten into the water, where they immediately drown it, and then return to the furface, and devour it at leifure. THEIR 190 ‘A VOYAGE TO Boox IV: Terr voracity has alfo been felt by the boatmen, whom, by inconfiderately fleeping with one of their arms or legs hanging over the fide of tlie boat, thefe animals have feized, and drawn the whole body into the water. Alligators who have once feafted on hu- man flefh, are known to be the moft dangerous, and become, as it were, inflamed with an infatiable defire of repeating the fame delicious repaft. The inhabit- ants of thofe places where they abound, are very in- dufirious in catching and deftroying them. Their ufual method is by a cafonate, or piece of hard wood fharpened at both ends, and baited with the lungs of fome animal. This cafonate they faften to a thong; the end of which is fecured on the fhore. The al- ligator, on feeing the lungs floating on the water, — fhaps at the bait, and thus both points of the wood enter bis jaws, in fuch a manner that he can neither fhut nor open his mouth. He is then dragged afhore, where he violently endeavours to refcue himfelf, while the Indians bait him like a bull, knowing that the greateít damage he can do, is to throw down fuch as, for want of care or agility, do not Hee out of his reach. The form of this animal fo nearly deta lo that of the lagarto or lizard, that here they are commonly called by that name; but there is fome difference in the fhape of the head, which in this creature is long, and towards the extremity flender, gradually forming a fnout Jike that of a hog, and, when in the river, is generally above the furface of the water; a fuf- ficient demonttration, that the refpiration of a groffer air is neceflary to it. ‘Che mandibles of this creature have each a row of very ftrong and pointed teeth, to which fome writers have attributed particular virtues ; but all I can fay tothis is, that they.are fuch as 1 and my companions, notwithftanding all our inquiries to attain a complete knowledge of every particular, could never hear any fatisfactory account of. CHAP. Ca. X. SOUTH AMERICA. 191 cHAP. Xx. “Of the Commerce carried on by means of the City and River of Guayaquil, betwixt the Provinces of Peru and Terra Firma, and the Coaft of New Spain. “HE commerce of Guayaquil may be divided into two parts; one reciprocal, being that of the pro- ducts and manufactures of its jurifdiction; the other tranfitory, its port being the place where the goods from the provinces of Peru, Terra Firma, and Gua- temala, configned to the mountains, are landed; and on the other hand, thofe from the mountains, de- - figned for the above-mentioned provinces, are brought hither and fhipped for their refpective ports. And as thefe two branches are very different, I fhall firft treat particularly of its reciprocal commerce. Tue cacfal, one of its principal produéts, is chiefly exported to Panama, the ports of Sonfonate, el Rea- | lejo, and other ports of New Spain; and alfo to thote of Peru, though the quantity fent to the latter is but fmall. It is fomething fingular, that in this city and juriídiCtion, where caqoa) grows in tuch plenty, littie or no ufe fhould be made of it. Timper, which may be efieemed the fecond article of its commerce, is chiefly fent to Callao; though a little is fold to the places between Guayaquil and that port. All the expeníe of it here is the charge of felling, carrying it to the mext creek or river, and floating it down to Guayaquil; where, or at Puna, it is {hipped for the ports it is configned to. Tuovuea both thefe branches of trade are very ad- vantageous to Guayaquil, as may eafily be imagined, from the prodigious quantities exported ; yet the trade _ of falt is not inferior to either, though the principal markets to which this is fent are only the inland: towns in 192 A VOYAGE TO Boox IV. in the province of Quito. To thele may be added cotton, rice, and fifh, both falied and dried; the two firtt of which deterve to be mentioned, as they ate ex- ported both to the maritime and inland provinces. Tue fourth and laft article of the commerce of this jurifdiiion, is the trade in horned cattle, mules, and colts, of which great numbers are bred in the ex- tenfive favannahs of this province. Thefe turn to good account in the provinces of the mountains, when there is nota fufficienoy to aníwer the necef- tary demands. Besibes thefe four capital articles, there are others, though fingly of little confequence, yet jointly are equal to any one of ¿he former, as tobacco, wax, Guiney pepper, drugs, and lana de ceibd, by which great numbers of the lower clafs of people acquire a eornkelabie fubfiftence. Tus lana de ceibo, or ceibo. wool, is the product of a very high and tufted tree of that name. “The trunk is Rraight, and covered with a fmooth bark; the leaf round, and of a middling fize. At the proper feafon the trée makes a very beautiful appearance, being covered with white bloffoms ; and in each of thefe is formed a pod, which increafes to about an inch and a half or two inches in length, and one in thicknefs. In this pod the lana or Webvtikes is contained, When thoroughly ripe and dry, the pod opens, and the filamentous matter or wool gradually fpreads itfelf into a tuft refembling cotton, but of a reddifh caft. This wool is dol more foft and delicate to the touch than cotton itfelf, and the filaments fo very tender and fine, that the natives here think it can- pot be fpun; but I am perfuaded that this is entirely owing to their ignorance: and if a method be ever darned of {pinning it, its fineneís will entitle it ra- ther to be called ceibo filk than woot The only ufe they have hitherto applied it to, is to fill matrafles ; and in this particular, it muft be allowed to have no equal, A TE Cu. X. SOUTH AMERICA. 193 equal, both with regard to its natural softness, and its rising so, when laid in the sun, as even to stretch the covering of the mattress ; nordoes it sinkon being brought into the shade, unless accompanied with dampness, which immediately compresses it. This wool is here thought to be of an extreme cold quality, which is abundaatly sufficient to hinder it from being generally used ; though great numbers of persons of rank, and tenderly brought up, have never slept on any thing else, but without any injury to their health. Tue goods imported into this jurisdiction from Peru, in return for the above-mentioned commodi= ties, are wine, brandy, oil, and dried fruits. From Quito it receives bays, tucuyos, flour, papas, bacon, hams, cheese, and other goods of that kind. From Panama, European ¢ goods purchased at the fairs. The chief commodities it receives from New Spain are - iron, found in that country, but much inferior to that of Europe, being brittle and vitreous. It, however, serves for such uses where malleability is of no great importance, but is rarely used in building ships ; also naphtha, and tar for the use of shipping. From the same coast, as well as from Peru, they have also cordage ; though the last article, together with Eu- ropean iron, the owners of ships import on their own account ; and therefore make no part of the com- merce. The transitory commerce isin quantity much more considerable than that of the preceding, as it consists of the reciprocal exchange between the large king- doms of Quito and Lima, of their respective com- modities both natural and factitious. Lima sends the products of its vineyards and oliveyards; and Quito furnishes cloth, bays, tucuyos, serges, hats, stockings, and other woollen goods ; but indigo be- ing necessary for increasing the beauty of the colours, and none of it growing in the province of Quito, the Voz. I. O merchants 194 A VOYAGE TO Book IV. . merchants of Guayaquil import it from New Spain, and send it to the Quito manufacturers. Summer is the proper season for carrying on these branches of commerce ; because then the manufac- tures of the mountains can be brought down to Guaya- quil, and the goods sent f om other parts carried up to the mountainous parts. But the river of Guaya- quil is never without vessels loading with goods of that jurisdiction, the sea here being always open. The profits resulting from this large and constant commerce could alone have preserved it from a total desertion, after being so frequently pillaged by pirates, and wasted by fire. And it is owing to the advan- tages resulting from this commerce, that we now be- hold it large, flourishing, and magnificent, as if it had enjoyed an uninterrupted prosperity from its very foundation. | BOOK Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 195 BOOK. V. Journey from Guayaquil to the City of Quito. C.F APs XL Passage from Guayaquil to the Town of Caracol, and from thence to Quito, O N receiving advice that the mules, provided by the corregidor of Guaranda, were on the road to Caracol, we immediately embarked at Guayaquil, on the 3d of May 1736, on board a large chata : but the usual impediment of the current, and seve- ral unfortunate accidents, rendered the passage so very long, that we did not land. at Caracol before the 11th. The tortures we received on the river from the moschitos were beyond imagination. We had provided ourselves with guetres, and moschito cloths; but to very little purpose. The whole day we were in continual motion to keep them off; but at night our torments were excessive. Our gloves were indeed some defence to our hands, but our faces were entirely exposed, nor were our clothes a sufficient defence for the rest of our bodies 5 for their stings, penetrating through the cloth, caused a very painful and fiery itching. The most dismal night we spent in this passage was when we came to an anchor near'a large and handsome house, but un- inhabited; for we had no sooner seated ourselves in O 2 it, 196 A VOYAGE TO Boox Y, it, than we were attacked on all sides with innumera-. ble swarms of moschitas; so that we were so far from having any rest there, that it was impossible for a per- son, susceptible of feeling, to be one moment quiet. Those who had covered. themselves with their mos- chito cloths, after taking the greatest care that none of these malignant insects were contained in them, found. themselves in a moment so attacked on all sides, that they were obligéd soon to return to the place they had quitted. ‘Those who were in the house, hoping that they should find some relief in the open fields, ventured out, though in danger of suffering in a more terrible manner from the serpents; but were soon con- ‘yinced of their mistake ; . it been impossible to deter- mine«which was the most supportable place, within the moschito cloth, without it, or in the open fields. In short, no expedient. was of any use against their numbers. ‘The smoke of the trees we burnt, to dis- perse these infernal insects, besides almost choking us, seemed rather to angment than diminish their multitudes. At day-break, we could not without concern look upon each other. Our faces were swelled, and our hands covered with painful tumours, which sufficiently indicated the condition of the other parts of our bodies exposed to the attacks of those insects. ‘The following night we took up our quar- ters in a house inhabited, but not free from mos- chitos; though in much less numbers than before, On informing our host of the deplorable manner in which we had spent the preceding night, he gravely told us that the house we so greatly complained of had been forsaken on account of its being the pur- gatory of a soul. To which one of our company wit-\ | | tily answered, that it was much more natural to think | y that it was forsaken on account of its being a purga- tory for the body. Tite mules being arrived at Caracol, we set out on the 14th of May, and after travelling four leagues, . through | ~ Cu. L' SOUTH AMERICA. 19% through savannahs, woods of plantain, and cacao- trees, we arrived at the river Ojibar; and continued our journey, during the whole day, along its banks, fording it no less than nine times, though with no small danger, from its rapidity, breadth, depth, and rocky bottom ; and, about three or four in the af- ternoon, we halted at a placed called Puerto de Mus- chitos. Aur the vol from Caracol to the Ojibar is so decp and boggy that the beasts at every step sunk almost up to their bellies ; but along the banks of that river we found it much more firm and commodious. The name of the place where we were to take up our lodging that night sufficiently indicates its nature. The house had been for some time forsaken, like that already mentioned on Guayaquil river, and become a nest of moschitos of all kinds ; so that it was impos- sible to determine which was the worst. Some, to avoid the torture of these insects, stripped themselves, and went into the river, keeping only their heads above water; but the face, being the only part ‘ex- posed, was immediately covered with them ; so that those who had recourse to this expedient, were soon forced to deliver up their whole bodies to these tor- menting creatures. On the 1=th we continued our journey through a very thick forest, the end of which brought us once more to the banks of the same river, which we again forded four times, and rather with more danger than at first. About five, we halted on its banks, at a place called Caluma, or the Indian post. Here was no house for lodging i in, nor had we seen one during the whole day’s journey ; but this inconvenience was in some measure removed by the surprising dexterity of our Indians, who, running into the woods, soon re- turned with branches of trees and vijahua leaves, with which, in less than an hour, they erected several huts large enough to contain our whole company ; and so O 3 well 198 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. well covered, that the rain, which came on very vio- Jently, did not penetrate them *. Tue thermometer at Caluma, on the 16th, at six in the motning, was at 1016 ; and we were aa ie sen- sible that the air began to grow cool. At half an hour after eight in the morning we began our jour- ney, and at noon passed by a place called Mamarumi, or mother of stone, where there is an inconceivably- beautiful cascade. The rock from which the water precipitates itself is nearly perpendicular, and fifty toises in height, and on both sides bordered with lofty and spreading trees. The clearness of the water daz- zles the sight, which is, however, charmed. with its lustre as it falls from the precipice; after which it continues its course in a bed along a small descent, and is crossed by the road. ‘These cattaracts are by the Indians called Paccha, and by the Spaniards-of the country Chorrera. From hente we continued our journey ; and after crossing the river twice on bridges, but with equal danger as in fording it, we arrived at two in the evening at a place called Tari- gagua, where we rested in a large structure of timber, covered with vijahua leaves, built for our reception. Indeed we were noless fatigued with this day's journey than with any of the preceding ; some parts of it being over dreadful precipices, and the road in others so narrow, as hardly to afford a passage for the mules, that it was impossible to avoid frequently striking against the trees and rocks; few of us therefore reach- ed Tarigagua without several bruises. Ir must not be thought strange that I should say the bridges are equally dangerous with the fords ; for these structures, all of wood, and very long, shake in bicker them; besides, their breadth is not above three The natives, when they travel, erect new-huts every night in this manner, except they have the conveniency of tying their ham- mocks up in trees, by which means they save the tgguble of a watch and fire all night to keep off "the wild beasts. feet, . Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 199 feet, and without any rail; so that one false step pre- _ cipitates the mule into the torrent, where it is inevi- tably lost ; accidents, according to the report of our guides, not uncommon. ‘These bridges, by the rot- ting of the wood under water, are annually repaired towards winter, the only season when they are used; the rivers during the summer being fordable. WueEw a person of distinction, as a president, a bishop, &c. is On a journey from Caracol or Baba- hoyo, the corregidor of Guaranda dispatches Indians for building cottages at the usual resting. places, like that we found at Tarigagua; and these being: left standing, serve afterwards for other passengers, till the rains destroy them. When these are thrown down, travellers must content themselves with the huts which their Indian guides build with wonderful dis- patch. Ar Tarigagua, on the 17th, at six in the morning, the thermometer stood at 10144. And having been for some time accustomed to hot climates, we now sensibly felt the cold. It is remarkable, that we here often see instances of the effects of two opposite tem- peratures, in two persons happening to meet, one of them coming from Guayaquil, and the other from the mountains: the latter finding the heat so great that he is scarce able to bear any clothes, while the former wraps himself up in all the garments he can procure, The one is so delighted with the warmth of the water of the river, that he bathes in it; the other thinks it so cold, that he avoids being spattered by it. Nor is the case very different even in the same person, who, af- ter a journey to the mountains, is returning to Guaya- quil, or vice versa, provided the journey and return be made at the same season of the year. This sensible difference proceeds only from the change naturally felt at leaving a climate to which one has been ac- customed, and coming into another of an opposite: temperature ; and thus two persons, one used to a O 4 cold 200 A VOYAGE TO Boox. V. cold climate, like that of the mountains; the other to a hot, like that of Guayaquil, must, at coming into an intermediate temperature, as at Tarigagua, feel an equal difference ; ‘one with regard to heat, atid the other with regard to cold; which demonstrates that famous opinion—that the senses aresubject to as'many apparent alterations, as the sensations are various in those who fee) tliem. For the impressions of objects are different, according to the different disposition of the senses; a the organs of two persons differently disposed are differently affected. At a quarter past nine in the morning we began to ascend the moun- tain of San Antonia, the foot of which is at Tariga- gua; and, at one, carne to a place called by the In- dians Guamac, or Cross of Canes, Here is a small but inclining plain; and being told that it was half way up the acclivity, and our beasts requiring rest, we halted here. Tus ruggedness of the road from Tarigagua lead- ing up this mountain is not easily described. It gave us more trouble and fatigue, besides the dangers we were every moment exposed to, than all we had expe- rienced in our former journeys. In some parts the declivity is so great that the mules can scarce keep their footing, and in others the acclivity is equally difficult. In many places the road is so narrow that the mules have scarce room to set their feet; and in others a continued series of precipices. Besides, these roads, or rather paths, are full of holes, or ca- melones, near three quarters of a yard deep, in’ which the mules put their fore and hind fect; so that some- times they draw their bellies and riders’ legs along the ground. Indeed these holes serve as steps, with- out which the precipices would be in a great measure impracticable. But should the creature happen to put his foot between two of these holes, or not place it right, the rider falls, and, if on the side of the precipice, inevitably perishes, lt may perhaps mr | said, - Cu. L SOUTH AMERICA. 201 said, thatit would be much safer to perform this part of the journey on foot: but how can any person be sure always of placing his feet directly on the emi- nences between the holes? and the least false step throws him up to the waist in a slimy mud, with which all the holes are full; and then he will ud it very difficult either to proceed or return back. These holes,or camelones, as they are called, ren- | der all this road very toilsome and dangerous, being as it weré so many obstacles to the poor mules; though the danger is even greater in those parts where they are wanting. For as the tracks are extremely steep and slippery, from the soil, which is chalky and con- tinually wet; so they would be quite impracticable, did not the Indians go before, and dig little trenches across the road, with small spades which they carry with them for this purpose; and thus both the dif- ficulty and danger of these craggy paths are great) y_ lessened. This work is continual, every drove re- quiring a repetition of it; for in less than a night the rain utterly ‘destroys all the trenches cut by several hands the preceding day. The trouble of having peo- ple going before to mend the road; the pains arising from the many falls and bruises; and the disagree- ableness of seeing one’s self entirely covered with dirt, and wet to the skin, might be the more cheerfully supported, were they not augmented by the sight of such frightful precipices, and deep abysses, as must fill the traveller’s mind with terror. For, without the least exaggeration, it may be said, that in travel- ling this road, the most resolute tremble, Tue manner of descending from these heights is not Jess difficult and dangerous. In order to under- stand this, it is necessary to observe, that in those parts of the mountains, the excessive steepness will not ad- mit of the camelones being lasting; forthe waters, by continually softening the earth, wash them away. On one side are steep eminences, and on the other fr iat fu 202 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. ful abysses ; and as they generally follow the direc- tion of the mountain, the road, instead of lying in a level, forms two or three steep eminences and de- clivities, in the distance of two or three hundred yards; and these are the parts where no camelones can be lasting. The mules themselves are sensible of the caution requisite in these descents; for, coming to the top of an eminence, they stop, and having placed their fore feet close together, as in a posture of stopping themselves, they also put their hinder feet together, but a little forwards, as if going to lie down. In this attitude, having as it were taken a survey of the road, they slide down with the swiftness of a meteor. All the rider has to dois to keep himself fast in the saddle without checking his beast; for the least motion is sufficient to disorder the equilibrium of the mule, in which case they both unavoidably perish. The address of these creatures is here truly wonderful ; for, in this rapid motion, when they seem to have lost all government of themselves, they follow exactly the different windings of the road, ‘as if they had before accurately reconnoitred, and previously settled in their minds, the route they were to follow, and taken every precaution for their safety, amidst so many irregula- rities. There would indeed otherwise be no possi- bility of travelling over such places, where the safe- ty of the rider depends on the experience and address of his beast. Bur the longest practice of travelling these roads cannot entirely free them from a kind of dread or horror which appears when they arrive at the top of a steep declivity. For they stop without being checked by the rider ; and if he inadvertently endeavours to spur them on, they continue immoveable; nor will they stir from the place till they have put themselves in the above-mentioned posture. Now it is that they seem to be actuated by reason; for they not only at- tentively view the road, but tremble and snort at the danger, Cut 1, SOUTH AMERICA. 203 danger, which, if the rider be not accustomed to these emotions, cannot fail of filling him with terrible ideas. The Indians go before, and place themselves along the sides of the moutain, holding by the roots of trees, to animate the beasts with shouts, till they at once start down the declivity. TueEre are indeed some places where these decli- vities are not on the sides of precipices ; but the road is so narrow and hollow, and the sides nearly perpen- dicular, that the danger is almost equal to the former; for the track being extremely narrow, and the road scarce wide enough to admit the mule with its rider, if the former falls, the latter must be necessarily crush- ed; and for want of room to disengage himself, gene- rally has a leg or an arm broken, if he escapes with life. It is really wonderful to consider these mules, after having overcome the first emotions of their fear, and are going to slide down the declivity, with what exactness they stretch out their fore-legs, that by pre- serving the equilibrium they may not fall on one side; yet at a proper distance make, with their body, that ‘gentle inclination necessary to follow the several wind- ings of the road; and, lastly, their address in stopping themselves at theend of their impetuous career. Cer- tainly the human species themselves could not show more prudence and conduct. Some mules, after be- ing long used to these journeys, acquire a kind of re- putation for their skill and safety, and accordingly are highly valued. THE worst seasons for these journeys, though dif- ficult and dangerous at all times, are the beginnings of summer and winter; the rain then causing such dreadful torrents, that in some places the roads are covered with water; and in others so damaged, that there is no possibility of passing, but by sending In- dians before to mend thein ; though after all their labour, which must be done in haste, and when those ( | people ar 204 '- A VOYAGE TO Boox V. people think them both safe and easy, they are such as an European stranger would willingly avoid. Besibes, the natural difficulty of all the roads among the mountains is increased by the neglect of them, which is greater than could easily be conceived. If a tree, for instance, happens to fall down across the road, and stop up the passage, no person will be at the pains to remove it; and though all passing that way are put to no small difficulty by such an obstacle, it is suffered to continue; neither the government, nor those who frequent the road, taking any care to have it drawn away. Some of these trees are indeed so large, that their diameter is not less than a yard and half, and consequently fill up the whole passage ; in which case, the Indians hew away part of the trunk, and assist the mules to leap over what remains ; but, in. order to this, they must be unloaded; and, after prodigious labour , they at last surmount the difficulty; though not without great loss of time, and damage to the goods: when, pleased with having got over. the obstacle themselves, they Icave the tree im the condi- tion they found it; so that those who follow are obliged to undergo. the same fatigue and trouble. Thus the road, to the great detriment of trade, re- mains encumbered till time: bas destroyed the tree. Nor is it only the roads over San Antonio, and other mountains between Guayaquil and the Cordillera, that are thus neglected ; the case is general all over this country, Cs; specially. where they lead over mountains, and through the forests. On he I se at six in the morning, the thermome- ter at Cruz de Canos was at 1010, ol after travelling along a road no better than the day before, we arrived ata bane at the end of the acclivity of the moun= tain, by the Indians called Pucara, which signifies a gate ont narrow page of a mountain; it also significs a tortified place, and possibly derived its name from its jarrowness amd the natural strength 1 of its situation. | We Cá/L | SOUTH AMERICA. 203 We now began to descend with more ease towards the province of Chimbo, though the road was not much better than the former. Here we were met by the corregidor of Guaranda or Chimbo, attended by the provincial alcalde, and the most eminent persons of the town. After complimenting us in the most cor=' dial manner on our arrival, we proceeded together, and within a league of the town were met by the priest, a Dominican, se a by several’ of his order, and a great number of the inhabitants, who also left the town on the same friendly occasion; and, to heighten the ceremony, had brought with them a troop of cholos, or Indian boys. These cholos were dressed in blue » girc led round their waists with sashes, on their heads:a kind of tur ban, and in their bh ands they carried flags, This little corps was divided into two or three Coun panies} and went before us dancing, and singing some words iu their language, which, as we were told, expressed the pleasure they received from the sight of such persons arrived safe in their country. In this manner our cas valcade entered the town, on which all the bells ia the place were rung, and every house resounded with the noise of trumpets, tabors, and pipes. On expressing to the corregidor our surprise at this reception, as a compliment far above our rank, he in- formed us, that it was not at all singular, it being no more than what was commonly practised when persons of any appearance enter the town; and that there was no small emulation between the several towns, in paying these congratulations. AFTER we had passed the mountains beyond Pa- cara, the whole country, within the reach of the eye, during a passage of two leagues, was a level and open plain, without trees or mountains, covered with fields of wheat, barley, maize, and other grain, whose ver- dure, different from that of the mountain, naturally ng great pleasure, our sight for near a twelve- month 206 A VOYAGE TO > Boox V. month having been conversant only with the products of hot and moist countries, very foreign to these, which nearly resemble those of Europe, and excited in our minds the pleasing idea of our native soil. The corregidor entertained us in his house at Gua- randa till the 21st of the same month, when we con- tinued our journey to Quito. The thermometer was for three days successively at 1004+. . Ow the 22d, we began to cross the desert of Chim- borazo, leaving the mountain of that name on the left, and travelling over different eminences and heights, most of which were of sand, the snow for a great distance forming, as it were, the sides of the mountain. At half an hour after five in the evening we arrived at a place called Rumi Machai, that is, a stony cave, an appellation derived from a vast ca- vity in a rock, and which is the only lodging travel. lers find here. Tuis day’s journey was not without its trouble ; for though we had nothing to fear from precipices, or, dangerous passes, like those in the road to Gua- randa, yet we suffered not a little from the cold of that desert, then increased by the violence of the wind. Soon after we had passed the large sandy plain, and being thus got over the severest part of the desert, we came to the ruins of an antient palace of Yncas, situ- ated in a valley between two mountains; but theseruins are little more than the foundations of the walls. On the 23d,at three quarters after five in the morn- ing, the thermometer was at 1000, or the freezing point, and accordingly we found the whole country covered witha hoar frost ; and the hut in which we lay had ice onit. Atninein the morning we set out, still keeping along the side of Chimborazo. Attwo . in the afternoon we arrrived at Mocha, a small, mean place ; but where we were obliged to pass the night. On the 24th,at six in the morning, the thermome- ter was at 1006; and at nine we set out for Hambato, i which | Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 207 which we reached at one in the afternoon, after passing several torrents, breaches, or chasms of the mountain Carguairaso, another mountain covered with snow, a little north of Chimborazo. Among these chasms is one without water, the earth remaining dry to the depth of twelve feet. This chasm was caused by a violent earthguake, which shall be spoken of in its place. On the 25th, the thermometer at Hambato, at half an hour after five in the morning, stood at toro, and on the 26th, at six in the morning, at 10093. This day, having passed the river of Hombato, and after- wards that of St. Miguel, by help of a wooden bridge, we arrived at Latacunga. On the 27th, at six in the morning, the thermome- ter was at 1007, when leaving Latacunga we reached in the evening the town of Mula-Halo, having in the way forded a river called Alaques. On the 28th, the liquor of the thermometer was at the same height as at Latacunga, and we proceeded on our journey, arriving in the evening at the mansion- house or villa called Chi Shinche. The first part of this day’s journey was over a large plain, at the end of which we had the pleasure of passing by a structure that belonged to the Pagan Indians, being a palace of the Yncas. It is called Callo, and gave name to the plain. We afterwards came to an acclivity, at the top of which we entered on the plain of Tiopullo, not less in extent than the first; and at the bottom, towards the north, is the house where we were enter- tained that night. | On the 29th, the thermometer at six-in the morn- ing was at 10033. We set out the earlier, as this was to be our last journey. A road crossing several breaches and beaten tracks, brought us to a spacious plain called Tura-Bamba, that is, a muddy plain; at the other extremity of which stands the city of Quito, where we arrived at fiye in the evening. The pre- sident 208. A VOYAGE TO Boox V. sident of the province was Don Dionesio de Alzedo y Herrera, who, besides providing apartments for us in the palace of the Audencia, entertained us the first three days with great splendour, during which we were visited by the bishop, the auditors, the canons, the regidores, and all other persons of any distinction, who seemed to vie with each other in their civilities towards us. In order to form an adequate idea of this country, it will not be amiss, after being so particular in de- scribing the disagreeable parts, and the many dangers to which travellers are exposed, to add a description of the most remarkable productions of nature. The lands between the custom-house of Babahoyo, or Caracol, and Guaranda, are of two kinds: the first, which extends to Tarigagua, is entirely level; and the second, which begins at that part, wholly moun- tainous. But both, and even two leagues beyond Pucara, are full of thick forests of various kinds of large trees, differing in the foliage, the disposition of their branches, and the size of their trunks. The- mountains, which form this chain of the Andes, are, ‘on the west side, covered with woods; but on the east entirely bare. Among these mountains is the source of that river which, being increased on all sides by brooks, makes so grand an appearance be- tween Caracol and Guayaquil, and proves so advan- tageous to the commerce of the country. In the level part of this woody extent are a great - number of animals and birds, of the same kind with those described in our account of Carthagena, except that to the last may be added wild peacocks, bustards, pheasants, and a few others, which are here in such abundance, that, did they not always rest on the tops of the trees, where, either from their enormous height, or being covered with leaves, they are secure, a travel- ler, with a good fowling-piece and ammunition, might _ at any time procure himself an elegant repast. But. 7 these Ch. SOUTH AMERICA. . 209 _ these forests are also. terribly infested with snakes and monkeys, particularly a kind called marimondas, which are so very large, that, when standing on their hind legs, they are little less than six feet high. ‘They are black, and, in every respect, very ugly ; but easily tamed. None of the forests are without them; but they seem most common in those of Guayaquil, AMONG the vegetable productions, I shall select three, which to me,seemed worthy ofa particular dés scription; namely, the cana, vijahua, and the bejuco; as they are not only the materials of which the houses in the jurisdiction of Guayaquil are built, but also ap- plied to various other uses. THE canas, or canes, are remarkable both for their length and thickness, and the water contained in their tubes. Their usual length is between: six and eight toises; and though there is a difference in their size; the largest do not exceed six inches diameter. The wood or side of the tube is about six lines in diameter; so that, when the cana is opened, it forms a board néar a foot and a half in breadth ; and hence it will nót appear strange, that houses should be built of such materials. From the time of their first appearance, till they’ attain their full perfection, when they are either cut down, or of themselves begin to dry, most of their tubes contain a quantity of water; but with this remarkable difference, that at full moon they are entirely, or very nearly, full; and with the decrease of the moon the water ebbs, till at the conjunction little or none is to be found. [ have myself cut them at all seasons, so that 1 here advance nothing but what I know to be true from frequent experience. I have also observed that the water during its decrease ap. pears turbid, but about the time of'the full moon it is as clear as crystal. . The Indians add another par- ticular, that the water’ is not found in all the joints, one having watery and another not, alternately. All I can say to this singularity i is, that on opening 2 Voz. I. = joint 410 A VOYAGE TO Boox V joint which happens to be empty, the two contiguous ones have water; and this is commonly the case in almost all the canes. This water is said to bu an tex. cellent preservative against the ill consequence of any bruises ; at least it is drunk as such by all who come from the mountains, where such accidents are unavoid- able. | Tue canes being cut, they are left to dry, or, as they say here, to be cured; whence they acquire such a degree of strength, that they serve either for rafters, beams, flooring, or even masts for balzas. * Ships which load with cacao are also cieled with them, to preserve the timbers from the great heat of that fruit, They are also used as poles for litters, and in an in- finite number of other particulars. Tue vijahua is a leaf generally:five feet in length, and two and a half in breadth. They grow wild, and without any'stem. - The principal rib in the middle, is between four and five lines in breadth, but all the other parts of the leaf are perfectly soft and smoeth : the under side is green, and the upper white, covered with a very fine white and viscid down. Besides the common use of it in covering houses, it also serves for packing up salt, fish, and other goods sent to the mountains ;' ás it Secures them from the rain. “They are also, in these desert places, of singular use for run. ning up huts on any exigency. | Tue bejucos area kind of ligneous cordage, and of two kinds; one growing from the earth, and twining round trees; the'other strike their roots inte certain trees: and from thence derive their nourishment. Both kinds, after growing to a great height, incline again to the earth, on which they creep till they meet with another tree, to the top of which they climb as before, and then again renew theirinclination towards the earth; and thus form a labyrinth of ligatures. Some are ‘even seen extended from the top of one tree to another, like a cord. They are so remarkably : flexile, Dado SOUTH AMERICA. 211 flexile, chat no bending or twisting can break them. But if not cut at the proper time, they grow of an unwieldy bigness. The sienderest of them are about four or five lines in diameter, but the most com- mon size is between six and eight; though there are others much thicker, but of little or no use, on ac- count of the hardness contracted in their long growth. The chief use of them is for lashing, tying, or fasten- ing different things together; and, by twisting se- veral of them in the nature of ropes, they make cas bles and hawsers for the balzas and small vessels; and are found by experience to last a long time in the water. Iw these forests also grows a tree, called very pro- perly Matapalo; i.e. kill-timber. It is of itself a weak tree; but, growing near another of considera- ' bie bulk, and coming into koe) with it, shoots above it, when, expanding i its branches, it deprives its neighbour of the rays of the sun. Nor is this all; for, as this imbibes the juices of the earth, the other withers and dies. After which, it becontts lord of the soil, and increases to such a bulk, that very large canoes are made of it; for which its wood is, of all others, the best adapted, being very light and fibrous. CHAP. IL Difficulties attending our making the necessary Observa» tions for measuring the Length of an Arch of the Meridian, and the Manner of our Living during the Pree: tk the progress made during one whole year, which we spent in coming to Quito, was the surmounting the difficulties of the passage, and at ' length reaching that country where we were to enter 2 on 252 ‘A VOYAGE TO Boox Y. on the principal part of our commission. Nor will even this appear a small matter, if the great distance and diversity of climates be considered. A few of the first days after our arrival were spent in making proper returns for the civilities we had received from all persons of rank; after which, we began to deli- berate on the best methods of performing our work; and the rather, as M. Bouguer and de la Condamine were now arrived. ‘The former reached Quito on the roth of June, by the»same road of Guaranda ; and the latter on the 4th of the same month, having taken his route by-the river of Emeralds, in the go- vernment of Atacames. Cur first operation was, to measure a piece of ground, which was to be the base of the whole work ; and this we finished during the remainder. of the cur- rent year. But it proved a very difficult and fatiguing operation, from the heat of the suñ, and the winds and rains, which continually incommoded us. The plain made choice of for this base is situated 249 tolses: lower than Quito, and four leagues to the N. E. of that city. Its called the plain of Yaruqui, from a village of that name near it. This plain was parti- cularly chosen, as the best adapted to our operations; for though there are several others in this district, yet all of them, lay at too great a distance from the direction of our base, ‘The quality, disposition, and lower situation, all contribute to render it less cold than Quito. Eastward it is defended by the lofty Cordiliera of Guamani and Pambamarca, and west- ward by that of Pichincha. The soil is entirely sand; so that, besides the heat naturally resulting from the direct rays of the sun, it is increased by the rays being reverberated by the two Cordilleras : hence it is also exposed to violent tempests of thun- der, lightning, and rain ; but, being quite open to- alee the e nor rth and Jah. soul dreadful w hirlwinds form here, that the whole interval is filled with co- lumns Cu. IL SOUTH AMERICA. 213 Jumns of sand, carried up by the rapidity and gyra- tions of violent eddy winds, which sometimes pro- duce fatal consequences: one melancholy instance happened while we were there; an Indian, being caught in the centre of one of these blasts, died on the spot. It is not, indeed, at all strange, that the quantity of sand in one of these columns should to- tally stop all respiration in any living creature, who has the misfortune of being involved in it. Our daily labour was, to measure the length of this plain in a horizontal direction, and, at the same time, by means of a level, to correct the inequalities of the ground; beginning early in the morning, and continuing to pursue our task closely till evening, unless interrupted by extreme bad weather; when we retired to a tent always pitched for that purpose, as well as for a retreat-atnoon, when the heat of the sun became too great for us, after the fatigue of the morning. We at first intended to have formed our base 'in the plain of Cayambe, situated twelve leagues to the north of Quito. Accordingly, the company first re- paired to this plain, to view it more attentively. In this place we lost M. Couplet, on the 17:h of Septem- ber 1736, after only two days illness: He was indeed slightly indisposed when we set out from Quito ; but, being of a strong constitution, his zeal for tne service would not permit him to be absent at our first essay. On his arrival, however, his distemper rose to such a height, that he had only two days to prepare for his passage into eternity ; but we had the satisfaction to see he performed his part with exemplary devotion. Thisalmost subitaneous death of a person in the flower of his age, was the more alarming, as none of us could discover the nature of his disease. THE mensuration of the base was succeeded by ob- serving the angles, both horizontal and vertical, of the first triangles we intended to form; but many of them P4 were 214 A VOYAGE TO Book V were not pursued, the form and disposition of the series being afterwards altered to very great advan- tage. In lid to this, M. Verguin, with some others, was sent to draw a geograp shical map of the parts south of Quito; whilst M. Bouguer did the same with regard to the northern parts; a task we found absolutely necessary, in order to determine the points where the signals aci be placed, so as to form the most regular triangles, and wnose sides should not be intercepted by perio mountains. Durine these operations, M. de la Condamine went to Lima, in order to procure money on recom- ‘mendatory letters of credit, which he had brought from France, for defraying the expences of the cem- pany, till remittances dia 2 Don George Juan tollowed him, in order to confér with the viceroy of Peru, for amicably determining some differences which had arisen with the new president. | These two gentlemen, having happily terminated their respective affairs, returned. to Quito about the middle of June, when bath M. Bouguer and those who surveyed the southern parts had finished their plans, It was now determined to continue the series of triangles to the south of Quito; and the company accordingly divided themselves into two bodies, con- , sisting of French and Spaniards, and each retired to the part assigned him; Don George Juan and M, Godin, who were at the head of one party, went to the mountain of Pambamarca; while M. Bouguer, dela Condamine, and myself, together with our as- sistants, climbed up to the highest sumenia of Pichins cha. Both parties suffered nota little, bo oth from the severity of the cold, and the impetuosity of the winds, which on these heights blew with incessant violence ; and these difficulties were the more painful to. us, as, we had been iittle used to such sensations. hus in the torrid zone, nearly under the equinoctial, where itis natural to suppose we had most to fear from the | hear, Cu. I SOUTH AMERICA. 215 heat, our greatest pain was caused by the excessiveness of the cold, the intenseness of which may be con- jectured from the following experiments made by the thermometer, carefully sheltered from the wind, on the top of Pichincha; the freezing point being at 1000. On the 15th of August, .1737, at twelve at noon, “the liquor was at the height of 1003. At four in the evening, at 10012. At fix in the evening, at 9982. On the 16th of August, at six in the morning, at 997- At ten in the forenoon, at 1005. At twelve at noon, at 1008. At five in the evening, at 10012. At six in the evening, at 9992. On the 17th, at three quarters after five in the morning, at 996. Atnine in the morning, at 1001. At 2 after twelve, at 1010. At + after twoin the afternoon, at 10124. At six in the evening, at 999. . And at ten in the evening, at 998. , Our first scheme for shelter and lodging, in these uncomfortable regions, was, to pitch a field-tent for each company ; but on Pichincha this could not be done, from the narrowness of the summit; and we were obliged to be contented with a hut, so small, that we could hardly all creep intoit. Nor will this appear strange, if the reader considers the bad disposition and smallness of the place, it being one of the loftiest crags of a rocky mountain, one hundred toises above tue highest part of the desert of Pichincha. Such was the situation of our mansion, which, like all the other ad- jacent parts, soon became covered with ice and snow, The ascent up this stupendous rack, from the base, or the place where the mules could come, to our ha- bitation, was so craggy, as only to be climbed on toot, and to perform it, cost us four hours continual la» bour and pain, from the violent efforts of the body, and the subtility of the air; the latter being such, as to render respiration difficult. It was my misfortune, when I climbed something above half way, to be so P 4) | over- 216 A VOYAGE TO Book V, overcome, that I fell down, andremained a long time without sense or motion ; and, as Iwas told, with all the appearances of death in my face. Nor was I able to proceed after coming to myself, but was obliged to return to the foot of the rock, where our servants and instruments remained.) The next day I renewed the attempt of climbing the rock; though probably I should have had no better success than before, had not some Indians assisted me in the most steep and dificult places. . 4 ‘ The strange manner of living which we wereredu- ced to, may not, perhaps, prove unentertaining to the reader ; and therefore I shall, as a specimen of it, give a succinct aecount of what we suffered on Pi- chincha. For this desert, both with regard: to the operations we performed there,and its inconveñiences, differing very little from others, an idea may be very easily formed of the fatigues, hardships, and dangers, to which we were continually exposed. The prin- cipal difference between the several deserts, consisted in their greater or lesser distance from places where we could procure provisions ; and in the inclemency af the weather, which was proportionate to the height of the mountains, and the season of the year when we visited them. We generally kept within our hut. Indeed; we were obliged to do this, both on account of the in- tenseness of the cold, the violence of the wind, and our being continually involved in so thick a fog, that an object at six or eight paces was hardly discernible. When the fog cleared up, the clouds, by their gra- vity, moved -nearer to the surface of the earth, and on all sides surrounded the mountain to a vast di- stance, representing the sea, with our rock like an island in the centre of it. When this happened, we heard the horrid noises of the tempests, which then discharged themselves on Quito and the neighbour- ing country. We saw the lightnings issue from the clouds, Cs: 167 SOUTH AMERICA. 217 clouds, and heard the thunders roll far beneath us; and whilst the lower parts were involved in tempests of thunderand rain, we enjoyed a delightful serenity; the wind was abated, the sky clear, and the enliven- ing rays of the sun moderated the severity of the cold. But our circumstances were very different when the clouds rose; their thickness rendered respiration dif- ficult; the snow and hail fell continually, and the wind returned with all its violence; so that it was impossible entirely to overcome the fears of being, together with our hut, blown down the precipice on whose edge it was built, or of being buried under it by the daily accumulations of ice and snow. Tue wind was often so violent in these regions, that its velocity dazzled the sight; whilst our fears were increased by the dreadful concussions of the precipice by the fall of enormous fragments of rocks. These crashes were the more alarming, as no other noises are heard in these deserts. Aad, during the night, our rest, which we so greatly wanted, was frequently disturbed by such sudden sounds. When the weather was any thing fair with us, and the clouds gathered about some of the other mountains which had a con- nection with our observations, so that we could not make all the use we desired of this interval of good weather, we left our hut, to exercise ourselves, in order to keep us warm. Sometimes we descended to some small distance, and at others amused ourselves with rolling large fragments of rocks down the precipice; and these many times required the joint strength of us all, though we often saw the same performed by the mere force of the wind. But we always took care in our excursions not to go so far, but that on the least appearance of the clouds gathering about dur cottage, which often happened very suddenly, we . could regain our shelter. The door of our hut was fastened with thongs of leather, and om the inside aot the smallest crevice was lettynstopped; besides which, it 213 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. it was very compactl¥ covered with straw. But, nots withstanding all cur care, the wind penetrated through. ‘The days were often little better than the nights; and all the ight we enjoyed was that of a lamp or two, which we kept burning, that we might distinguish ene another, and improve our time as much as pos. sible in reading. Though our hut was small, and erowded with inhabitants, besides the heat of the lamps, yet the intenseness of the cold was such, that every one of us was obliged to havea chafingdish of eoals. These precautions would have rendered the yigour of the climate supportable, had not the im- minent danger of perishing by being blown down the precipice roused us every time it snowed, to en- counter the severity ‘of the outward air, and sally out with shovels, to free the roof of our hut from the masses of snow which were gathering on it. Nor would it, without this precaution, have been aule to supportthe weight. We were not, indeed, without servants and Indians; but they were so benumbed with the cold, that it was with great difficulty we could get them out of a ins tent, where they kept a continual fire. So that all we could obtain from them was, to take their turns in this labour; and even thea they went very unwillingly about it, and bes necia: performed it slowly. Tr may be easily conceived what we suffered from the asperities of such a climate. Our feet were swelled, and sotender, that we could not even bear the heat, and walking was attended with extreme pain. Our hands were covered with chilblains; our lips swelled and ori ; so that every motion, in speaking or the like, drew blood ; consequently we were obliged to a strict raciturnity, and but little disposed to laugh, an extension of the lips producing fissures, ti pain- ful for two or three days together. Ovr common food in this inhospitable region was a little rice boiled with some flesh or fowl, whieh we 8 procured Cn. H. SOUTH AMERICA. 219 procured from Quito ; and, instead of fluid water, our pot was filled with ice: we had the same resource with regard to what we drank: and, while we were eat. ing, every one was-obliged to keep his plate over a chafingdish of coals, ta prevent his provisions from freezing. The same was done with regard to the water, At first we tmagined, that drinking strong liquors would diffuse a heat through the body, 2 and consequently render it less sensible: of the painful sharpness ¢ of the cold; but,.to our surprise, we feltno manner of strength in them, nor were they any greater preservative against the cold than common water. For. this reason, together with the apprehension that they might prove detrimental to our health, besides the danger of contracting an i!] habit, we discontinued their use, having recourse to them but very seldom, and then sparingly. We frequently gave a small quantity to our Indians, together with part of. the provisions which were continually sent us frem Quito; besides a daily salary of four times as: much as they usually earn. Bur, notwithstanding all these encouragements, we found it impossible t to keep the Indians together. On their first feeling the rigours of the climate, their thoughts were immediately turned on deserting us, The first instance we had of this kind was so unex= pected, that, had not ene of a better disposition than the rest staid with us, and acquainted us of their des sign, it might have proved of very bad consequence. The affair was this: there being on the top of the rock no roam for pitching a tent for them, they used every evening to retire to a cave at the foot of the mountain, where, besides a natural diminution of the cold, they could keep a continuai fire; and conse, quently enjoyed more comfortable quarters than their masters. Before they withdrew at nighe, they fastened on the outside the door of our hut, which was so low that it wasimpossible to go in or out without stooping; and 220 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. and as every night the hail and snow which had falien formed a wall against the door, it was the bu- siness ofone or two to come up early and remove this obstruction, that, when we pleased, we might open the door. For though our Negro servants were Jodged in a little tent, their hands and feet were so co- vered with chilblains, that they would rather have suffered themselves to have been killed than move.. The Indians therefore came constantly up to dispatch this work betwixt nine and ten in the morning; but we had not been there above four or five days, when we were not a little alarmed to see ten, eleven, and twelve come, without any news of our labourers; when we were relieved by the honest servant men- tioned above, who had withstood the seduction of his countrymen, and informed us of the desertion of the four others. After great difficulty, he opened a way for us to come out, when we all fell to clearing our habitation from the masses of snow. We then sent the Indian to the corregidor of Quito, with ad- vice of our condition, who, with equal dispatch, sent others, threatening to chastise them severely, if they were wanting in their duty. Bur the fear of punishment was not sufficient to: induce them to support the rigour of our situation ; for within two days we missed them. On this second desertion the corregidor, to prevent other inconve- niences, sent four Indians under the care of an alcalde, and gave orders for their being relieved every fourth day. TWENTY-THREE tediousdays we spent onthis rock, viz. to the 6th of September, and even without any possibility of finishing our observations of the angles; for, when it was fair and clear weather with us, the others, on whose summits were eregted the signals which formed the triangles for measuring the degrees of the meridian, were hid in clouds; and when (as we conjectured, for we could never plainly discern ee those Cu. tl SOUTH AMERICA. 221 those were clear, ‘Pichincha was involved in clouds. It was therefore necessary to erect our signals in a lower situation, and in a more favourable region. This, however, did not produce any change in our habitation till December, when, having finished the observations which particularly concerned Pichincha, we proceeded to others ; but with no abatement either of inconveniencies, cold “or fatigue, the places where we made all our observations being necessarily on the highest parts of the deserts; so that the only respite, in which we enjoyed fome little ease, was during the short interval of passing from one to the other. In all our stations subsequent to that on Pichincha, during our fatiguing mensuration of the degrees of the meridian, each company lodged in a field-tent, which, though small, we found less inconvenient than our Pichincha hut, though at the same time we had more trouble, being oftener obliged to clear it from thesnow, as the weight of it would “otherwise have demolished the tent. At first, indeed, we pitched it in the most sheltered places ; but, on taking a resolution that the tents themselves should serve for signals, to prevent the inconvenience of those of wood, we removed them to amore exposed situation, where the’ impetuosity of the winds sometimes tore up the piquets, and blew them down, Then we were not a little pleased with our having brought supernumerary tents, and with our dexterity in pitching another instead of that which the wind had torn away. Indeed, without this pre- caution, we should have been in the utmost danger of perishing. In the desert of Asuay we particularly experienced the benefit of this expedient; three tents belonging to our company being obliged to be pitched one after another, tillat last they all became,unfit for use, and two stout poles were broken. In this ter- rible condition our only resource was to quit the post, which, was next to the signal of Sinasaguan, and shelter ourselves ina breach or chasm. The two-com- BOND panies A 222 A VOYAGE TO Boox Y. panies were both at that time on this desert, so that the sufferings of both were equal. The Indians who attended-us, not willing to bear the severity of the cold; and disgusted with the frequent labour of clear- ing tbhe'tent from the snow, at the first ravages of the wind, deserted us... Thus we were obliged to perform every thing ourselves, till others were sent us from a seat about three leagues distant at the bot» — tom of the mountain. — WauILe we were thus labouring under a variety of difficulties from the wind, snow, frost, and the cold, which. we here found more severe than in any other part; forsaken by our Indians, little or no provisions, a scarcity of fuel, and, in a manner, destitute of shel. ter, the good priest of Cannar, a town ¢ituated at the foot of these Cordilleras, south west from the signal of Sinasaguan, about five leagues from it, and the road very difficult, was offering up his prayers for us; for he, and all the Spaniards of the town, from the blackness of ithe clouds, gave us over for lost; so that, aftér finishing our observations, when we passed through the town, they viewed us with astomishment; and received us with the mest cordial signs of des light, adding their congratulations, as, 1f we had, amidst the most threatening: dangers, obtained aglos rious victory. And, doubsless, our operations must appear to them a very extraordinaty performance, if we consider the inexpressible horror with which they view those places where we had passed só many days. Ir was at first determined to erect signals of wood in the form of a pyramid; but to render our stay in the piercing colds of these regions as short as possible, _we abandoned that intention, of which there would have been no end; because, after remaining several days in the densest parts of the clouds, when a clear interval happened, the siguals could not be distin. guished: some the winds had blown down, and others had been carried away by the Indians who tended — their ~ Cx. il. SOUTH AMERICA. 223 their cattle on the sides of the mountains, for the sake ofthe timber and ropes. To remedy which, the only expedient was to make the very tents in which we lodaed, serve for signals ; for the orders of the ma- gistrates, and threatenings of the priests, were of lite tle consequence in such a desert country, where it was almost impossible to discover the delinquents. Tue deserts of the mountains of Pambamarca and Pichincha were the noviciates, in which we were mured to the severe life we led from the beginning of August-1737, to the end of July 1739» During which tine, our Company occupied thirty-tive deserts; and that of Don George Juan, thirty-two; the pare ticnlars of which shall be enumerated, together with the names of all those on which we: erected signals for forming the triangles ; in all which, the inconve- niencies were the same, except that they became less sensible, in proportion as our bodies became inured to fatizue, and naturalized to the inclemencies of those regions; so ‘that in time we were reconciled to/a‘con+ tinual solitude, coarse provisions, and often a scarcity of these. The diversity of temperatures did not in the least affect us, when we descended from ‘the in« tense cold of one of those deserts into the plains and valleys, where the heat, though but moderate, seemed excessive to those coming from such frozen regions. Lastly, without any concern, we encountered the dan+ gers unavoidable among those steep precipices, and a great variety of others to which we were continually exposed.» The little cabins of the Indians, and the stalls for cattle scattered up and down on the skirts of the mountains, and where we used to lodge in our passage from one defert to another, were to us spa~ cious palaces; mean villages appeared like splendid cities, and the conversation of a priest, and two er three of his companions, charmed us like the ban- ‘quet of Xenophon: the little markets held in those towns, when we happened to pass through them on | & Sunday, 224 A: VOYAGE TO Book V» a Sunday, seemed to us as if filled with all the variety of Seville fair. Thus. the least object became mag. nified, when we descended for two or three days from our exile; which, ia some places, lasted fifty days - successively ; and it must be owned, that there were particular occasions when our sufferings were such, that nothing could have supported us under them, and ani- mated us to persevere, but that honour and fidelity which Jointly conspired to induce both companies, whatever should be the consequence, not to leave im- perfect a work so long desired by all civilized nations, and so particularly countenanced by the two powers ful monarchs our sovereigns. Ir may not be amiss hep to inform the reader of the different opinions conceived by the neighbouring inhabitants, with regard to our enterprise. Some ad». mired our resolution, others could not tell what con» struction to put upon our perseverance; and even those of the best parts and education among them | were utterly at a loss what to think. They made it their business to examine the Indians concerning the life we led, but the answers they received only tend-. ed to increase their doubts and astonishment... They saw that those people, though naturally hardy, ro- bust, and inured to fatigues, could not be prevailed upon, notwithstanding the encoura gement of double pay, to continue any time with us. The serenity in which we lived on those dreaded’ places was not unknowa to them; and they saw with what tranquil- lity and constancy we passed from one scene of soli- tude and labour to another. This to them appeared so strange, that they were at a loss what to attribute it to. Some considered us as little better than luna- tics ; others more sagaciously imputed the whole to covetousuess, and chat we were certainly endeavour- ing to discover some rich minerals by particular me- thods cf our own invention; others again suspected that we dealt in magic; but all were involved in a | labyrinth Cu. Il. SOUTH AMERICA. 275 labyrinth of confusion with regard to the nature of our design. And the more they reflected on it, the greater was their perplexity, being unable to discover any thing proportionate.to the pains and hardships we underwent. And even when we informed them of the real motive of this expedition, which caused so much astonishment, their ignorance of its import- ance would not suffer them to give credit to what we said ; suspecting that we concealed, under the veil of an incomprehensible chimera, our real prac- tices, of which, as I have already observed, they had no good opinion. | Amone several pleasant adventures which this oc- cCasioned, I shall only mention two, both which are still fresh in my memory ; and may serve to illustrate "the strange ideas these ignorant people formed of us. While we were at the signal of Vengotasin, erected on a desert at no great distance from the towi of Latacunga, about a league from the place where we had pitched our field-tent was a cow-house, where we constantly passed the night; for the ascent not being remarkably difficult, we could ev ery morning, in fair weather, return soon enough to the tent to be- gin our observations. One morning, as we were pass- ing to the signal, we saw at a distance three or four Indians, in appearance on their knees; and we found indeed, on our .approaching nearer, that this was their real posture; we also observed that their hands were joined, and that they uttered words in their lan- guage with the greatest fervour and the most sup- plicant accent ; but, by the position of their eyes, it was evident that we were the persons whom they thus addressed. We several times made signs for them to rise, but they still kept their posture till we were got at a considerable distance. We had searce begun to prepare our instruments within the tent, when we were alarmed with a repetition of the same supplicant vociferations. On going out to know the POD: La Q cause, ‘ 226 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. cause, we found the same Indians again on. their knees before the tent; nor were we able, by all the signs we could make, to raisethem from that posture. There fortunately happened at that time to be with us a servant who understood both the Indian and Spanish languages; and having directed him to ask these poor people what they wanted of us, we were informed, that the eldest of them was the father of the others, and that his ass being either strayed or stolen, he came'to us, as persons who knew every thing, to intreat us to commiserate his great loss, and put him in a method of recovering his beast. This simplicity of the Indians afforded us no small enter- | tainment; and though we did all we could, by means | of our interpreter, to undeceive them, we found they | were equally tenacious of this strange error as of ge- nuflexion; and would still believe, that nothing was hid from us; till, having wearied themselves with these clamorous vociferations, and finding we took no no- tice of them, they retired, with all the marks of ex- treme sorrow that we would not condescend to. in». form them where they might find the ass; and with Se a firm persuasion that our refusal proceeded from ill-- — nature, and not from ignorance. Tue other adventure I shall mention, happened to myself in particular, and not with simple and ignorant Indian peasants, but with one of the principal inhabi- tants of Cuenga. While the whole company wereon ~ the mountain of Bueran, not far from the town of Cannar, I received a message from the priest of that place, informing me, that two Jesuits of my acquaint- | ance were passing that way, and, if I was desirous of seeing them, I might find them at his house. As I was cheerfully descending the mountain to enjoy this pleasing invitation, I happened to be overtaken by a gentleman of Cuenca, who was going to take a view of his lands in that jurisdiction, and had observed me, coming from our tent. He was, it seems, sila ed Cu. II. SOUTH AMERICA. 227 ed with my name, though he had never. seen me ; but observing me dressed in the garb of the Mestizos, © and the lowest class of people, the only habit in which we could perform our operations, he took me for one of the servants, and began to examine me; and I was determined not to undeceive him till he had finished. Among other things, he told me, that neither he nor any body else would believe, that the ascertaining the figure and magnitude of the earth, as we pretended, could ever induce us to lead such a dismal and uncouth life; that, however we might deny it, we had doubtless discovered many rich mi- nerals on those lofty deserts; adding, that persons in his circumstances were not to be satisfied with fine words. Here I laboured to remove the prejudices he entertained against onr operations; but all I could say only tended to confirm him in his notion; and, at parting, he added, that, doubtless, by our profound knowledge in the magic art, we might make much greater discoveries than those who were ignorant of it. These opinions were blended with others equally ab- surd and ridiculous; but I found it impossible to un- deceive him, and accordingly left him to enjoy his own notions. Our series of triangles in the south part being finished, and a second base measured by each com- pany to prove the truth of our work, we began our astronomical observations; but, our instruments not being perfectly adapted to that intention, we were obliged, in the month of December of the same year, to return to Quito, in order to construct another, on whose accuracy we could safely rely; and this ef- ployed us till the first of August of the following year 1740; when, without any further loss of time, we again repaired to Cuenga, and immediately began our observations : but these, being very tedious, were not finished before the end of September ; the at- mosphere of that country being very unfavourable to Q 2 astrono» ane oA EeTTOO: | Bib we astronomical observations. For, in the deserts, the clouds in which we were so frequently involved hin- dered us from discerning the other signals; and in the city, over which they spread a kind of perpetual pavilion, they hid the stars from ys while they passed the meridian; but patience and resolution, inspired by the importance of our enterprise, having enabled us at last to perform our task on the south side of the equator, we prepared for cur journey to the north of it, in order to make the astronomical observations at the other extremity of the arch of the meridian, and thus put the finishing band to our work: but this was for some time retarded by an accident of importance which called us to Lima, as will be related in the se- cond volume. | . In December 1743, the reasons which detained us at Lima, Guayaquil, and in Chili, no longer subsist- ‘ing, we returned to Quito in January 1744, when Don George Juan and I prolonged the arch of the meridian. four triangles, by which it was extended to the place w here M. Godin, in 1740, had made the second astronomical observation, and which he now repeated, and finished in the month of May 744. Mess. Boucuer and M. de la Condamine having at that time finished the several parts assigned tothem; had left Quito, in order to return to ‘Bienen sie former by the way of Carthagena, and the latter by the river of the Amazons; but the rest of the com- pany remained there some time ; some for fear of be- ing taken by the enemy, some for want of the means to defray the charges necessary in so long a journey, and others on account of their naving contractedsome obligations, and were unwilling to leave the country till they could discharge them. So that in the former only the natural desire of returning to their country prevailed, in order there to repose themselves after. such a series of labours and hardships, by which the. _ 2, health Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 229 * health and vigour of all were in some measure im- paired. . ‘CHAP. II. The Names of the Deserts and other Places where the Signals were erected for forming the Series of Tri- angles for measuring an Arch of the Meridian. N order to gratify the curiosity of the reader with regard to our operations, I shall mention, in sepa- rate articles, the places where each company made their observations, and the time they were obliged to remain there; omitting a detail of circumstances, many of which would be little more than a para- phrase on the subject óf the preceding chapter. Nor shall I here include those stations used in the year :1736, after measuring the base of Yaruqui, both on its extremities and in the deserts of Pambamarca and Yllahalo; for the disposition of the triangles being afterwards altered, they were repeated. Therefore, considering them as not used at that time, I shall be- gin with those stations in which no such circumstances happened, and range them in the order they were occupied. Deserts on which the signals were erected for the opera- tions conducted by M. de la Condamine and myself. I. Sienaz on the desert of Pichincha Tue signal was at first erected on the highest sum- mit of Picticla; but afterwards remov of to an- other station at the foot of the pic; the top having been afterwards found not to be the most proper place. We icine our observations on this mountain on the Q 3 14th 230 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. 14th of August 1737, but could not finish them ‘before the beginning of December following. II. Tue signal on Oyambaro, the south extremity of the base of Yaruqui. On the 20th of December 1737, we removed to Oyambaro ; and finished our observations necessary to be made there on the 29th of the same month. III. Siewaz on Caraburu, the northern extremity of the base of Yaruqui. Own the 30th of December we passed to Caraburu, and continucd there till the 24th of January 1738. ‘This long stay was partly occasioned by the badness of the weather, and partly by the want of signals. IV. Srcwat on the desert of Pambamarca. Ow this desert of Pambamarca, where we had be- fore been in 1736, on finishing the measurement at Yaruqui, a second signal was erected here, and we went up the 26th of January, 1738, where we re- mained till the 8th of February; and though we had not here the difficulties of the ice and snow to strug- gle with, as on Pichincha and other subsequent sta- tions, yet we were extremely incommoded by the velocity of the winds, which were so violent that it was difficult tostand; and, notwithstanding the best shelter possible to be procured, we often found it very difficult to keep the instrument steady ; which, of consequence, greatly increased the difficulty of making the observations with the necessary accuracy. V. Srenat on the mountain of Tanlagua. | On the 12th of February we ascended the moun- tain of Tanlagua; and having the next day finished our observations, returned. If this mountain be but — small Cu. HI. SOUTH AMERICA. 231 small in comparison of others in this Cordillera, and thus saved us the many inconveniencies of a lofty station, yet the steepness of its sides put us to no small difficulty, there being no other possible method of going up than by climbing and the greatest care is requisite in fixing the hands and feet close and firm; ; nor is it possible to climb it in less than four hours, The descent, as may naturally be concluded, is little less hazardous, as you must sit and slide down much the greater part of it; and this must be done gently, lest, by celerity of motion, you tumble down the precipice. VI. Srexaz on the plain of Changalli. On the 7th of March we removed to the signal of Changalli, and finished the necessary observations on the 20th. We spent the time here very comfortably. The signal was erected on a plain, where neither the air nor weather molested us; and being lodged in a farm-house near the signal, and not far from the town of Pintac, we had all the necessary conveniencies of life, the want of which we often severely felt in the deserts. These comforts did not, however, in the least abate our diligence to avail ourselves of every instant when the signals on the mountains were not conceal- ed in clouds. But one circumstance which lengthen- ed our stay was, that some of the signals were want- ing, having been blown down by the wind; it was | therefore resolved, that for the future the field-tents should serve for signals. And, accordingly, we after- wards constantly pursued this method. VIL. Sicgwat on the derert of Pucáguaico, on the side of the mountain Catopaxi. Tuis mountain we ascended the 21st of March, and on the 4th of April were obliged to return, after in vain endeavouring to finish our observations, For, Q 4 not 232 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. not to mention our own sufferings, the frost and snow, together with the winds, which blew so. violently that they seemed endeavouring to tear up that dread- fal volcano by its roots, rendered the making ob-: servations absolutely impracticable. Such is indeed the rigour of this climate, that the very beasts avoid ' it; nor could our mules be kept at the place where we, at first, ordered the Indians to take care of them; so that they were obliged to wander in search of a milder air, and sometimes to such a distance that we had often no small trouble in finding them. Ar Pucaguaico we however saw the necessity of either erecting the signal further to the south, or set- ting up another in the intermediate space, Several consultations were held, to determine on the best me- thod; but, as other things were necessary to be done before we came to a conclusion, the operations were suspended, and the interval spent in making obser- vations on the velocity of sound, and other physical subjects. Every thing being ready for renewing our operations, wea second time ascended Pucaguaico on the 16th of August, and it was our good fortune by the 22d to have finished all our necessary ‘operations. VIII. Sienau on the desert Corazon. On the 12th of July, before we had finished our operations at the station of Pucaguaico, we ascended to the desert Corazon, where we staid till the 9th of August. This mountain is nearly of the same height with that of Pichincha; and its loftiest summit, like that of the former, a rock of considerable altitude. At the foot of this rock the signal was erected; and thus our station nearly resembled that of Pichincha. There was indeed this considerable difference, that our sufferings from the winds, frost, and snows, were considerably less. EX.Sret ¡CEBA SOUTH AMERICA. 233 "IX. Srenwax on Papa-urco. Ir had been determined that Papa-urco should be the place where the intermediate signal betwixt these of Pucaguaico and Vengotasin should be erected. This mountain, which is of a middling height, we ascended the 11th of August, and continued on it till the 16th, when we returned to Pucaguaico ; so that this easy mountain was a kind of resting-place be- tween the two painful stations of Corazon and Pu- caguaico. X. Sriexarz on the mountain of Milin ; -— Wuoss height is nearly the same with that of the Papa-urco. We ascended it on the 23d of August,and by the 29th had finished the necessary observations. XI. Stenax on the mountain Vengotasin. THE mountain of Vengotasin is not remarkably higb, but our stay on it was longer than we at first imagined; for, after finishing our observations on the 4th of September, some difficulties which arose with regard to the position of the-following signal towards the south detained us till the 18th. However, the town of Latacungo being contiguous to the skirts of this mountain, and having several farms in its neigh- bourhood, we were at no loss for many conveniencies of which we were destitute in several other stations. XII. Srenax on the mountain of Chalapu. Our stay on this mountain was shorter than on any other in the whole series of triangles; for we continu- ed only part of four days, going up the 20th and coming down the 23d. It is none of the highest mountains, and has in its neighbourhood the town of Hambato, and its skirts diversified with seats and farms ; 234 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. farms; but the acclivity is so steep, that the safest way is to ascend it on foot. XI. Srenat of Chichichoco.. The signal of Chichichoco was erected on the side of the mountain of that name, which is a branch of the famous snowy mountain of Carguairaso. Here we stayed only from the 24th to the 29th of September. Though the spot where we placed the signal was of a very inconsiderable height when compared with that ofthe other mountains, yet, from its proximity to Car- guairaso, when the wind blew from that quarter, it was considerably cold, but not comparable to that we felt on the deserts, where every part was covered with ice, hail, or snow. ‘The day we left this place, while ourIndians were loading the mules,and we in the tent ready to set out on our journey, an earthquake was felt, which reached four leagues round the country. Our tent rocked from side to side, in conformity to the undulating motion observed in the earth ; this — shock was only one of the small concussions frequent , in those parts. ; y XIV. Sicnaz of Mulmul. This signal, and the three following, occasioned several journeys from one to another; as, for the greater accuracy of the observations, auxiliary trian- gies were to be formed, in order to verify the distances resulting from the principal. The difficulty also of reciprocally distinguishing some signals from others, obliged us to change their position, till they stood in proper places; and consequently laid us under a ne- cessity of going often from one station to another. On the 8th of November, having finished all our ob- servations, the company removed to Riobamba, where I myself had been confined ever since the 20th of October, with a critical disease, which at first at- tacked ' Cu: Ill. SOUTH AMERICA, 235 tacked me at Chichichoco, and increasing at Mulmul, I was obliged to remain in a cow-house on that moun. tain, from whence I was removed to Riobamba; and this accident hindered me from being present at the signals XV. XVI. and XVII. which were those of Guayama, Limal, and Nabuso. XVIII. SicwaL of Sisa-pongo, Ar.the signal of Sisa-pongo we continued from the 9th to the end of November; and here the trigono- metrical observations were intermitted till Don George Juan and M. Godin returned from Quito, to which city they repaired in order to take some measures ne- cessary for the continuation of the work, But, that this interval might not be lost, M. Bouguer pro- posed to make some experiments, in order to demon- strate the system of attraction, The place he made choice of for these experiments was the mountain of Chimbarazo. In this station, and the following of the sandy desert of the same mountain, we suffered more than on any other. XIX. Srenax of Lalanguso. On the desert of Lalanguso, our observations were continued from the 24th to the gist of January 1739. XX. SiGxNAL on the desert of Chusay. The station on the desert of Chusay was one of the most tedious in the whole series of triangles, being un- avoidably detained on thisdisagreeable mountain from the 3d of February to the 24th of March. This de- lay was occasioned by the difficulty of pitching on pro- per places for erecting the succeeding signals, thatthey might stand in full view, be easily distinguished one from another, and forin regular triangles. This was indeed a difficult task, the lofty summits of the moun- tains of the Cordillera of Azuay, where they were to be 236 ‘A VOYAGE TO Boox VY. be placed, intercepting each other from our sight. The tediousness of this station was increased by the ri- gour of the weather, the strength of the winds, and its great distance from any place where we could pro- cure convenient shelter and refreshments. XXI. Srenat on the desert of Tialoma. On the desert of Tialoma we continued from the 26th of March to the 25th of April; but had little, except the length of the time, to complain of. XXII. Srewar én the desert of Sinasaguan. We arrived at the desert of Sinasaguan on the 27th of April, and left it on the gth of May, the only clear day we had during our stay ; but as we bave already mentioned our sufferivgs on this desert, it will be un- necessary to repeat them here. | XXII. Siexas on the desert of Bueran. We continued on the desert of Bueran from the roth of May to the rst of June ; but, besides the small height of the mountain, the'town of Cannar being only two leagues distant from it, we were in want of. nothing. ‘The temperature ofthe air was also much more mild than on the other deserts; besides, we had the great satisfaction of relieving our solitude by go- ing to hear mass on Sundays, and other days of pre- cept in the town. These comforts had, however, some allay ; for while we continued on this desert, the animals, cottages, and Indians, suitered three times in a very melancholy manner by tempests of lightning, which fell ox the neighbouring plains; allthose couv- tries, especially the desert of Burgay, which borders on that of Bueran, being subject to terrible storms. XXIV. Sia- E Cu... SOUTH AMERICA. 237 XXIV. Sienat on the desert of Yasuay. Our observations at the signal of Yasuay were not finished till the 16th of July; there being a necessity, before we could conclude them, to pitch on the most convenient placefor measuring a second base, in order to prove the accuracy of all the preceding geome- trical operations; and, after fixing on a proper spot, to determine where the signals between Yasuay and the base could be most properly placed. In order to this, we went to Cuenca, and from thence proceeded to the plains of ‘Talgui and los Bannos. At last it was determined that the base should be measured in the former, by which the result of the triangles was to be verified by my company, and that of the other in the plain of los Bannos. The requisite signals also were erected; and we returned to the desert of Y asuay, . where we continued ourobservations, which employed us from the 7th to the 16th of July. Though this mountain is one of the highest in the wbole ter ritory of ‘Cuenga, and the ascent so steep that there is no going up but on foot, nor even by that method with- out great labour, yet the cold is far from being so intolerable as on Sinasaguan and the deserts north of that mountain. So that we cheerfully supported the inconveniencies of this station. ; XXV. SicNaAL on the mountain of Borma. Tus mountain is but low, as are all the others in the neighbourhood of Cuenga, so that here we were not impeded by any cloudy summits. It was also our _good fortune that Yasuay, contrary to our apprehen- sions, was clear and visible the whole 19th of July ; so that we finished our observations in two days agree- ably. XXVI 238 A VOYAGE TO Book V. XXVI. XXVIL XXVIMN. XXIX. Sig wars of Pugin, Pillachiquir, Alparupasca, and Chinan. Tue two last being the north and south extremities of the base of Talqui, the four stations of Pugin, Pil- lachiquir, Alparupasca, and Chinan, did not require our attendance; for being near the base of Talqui, we daily went from the farm-houses where we lodged, and observed the angles, except that of Pillachiquir, to which, on account of its greater distance than that of the other signals, there was a necessity for our vi- siting ; but happily concluding our observations the same day we reached it, there was no reason for our longer stay. XXX. XXXI. Srenaxs of Guanacauri, and the tower of the great church of Cuenga. te THE series of triangles, except the two last at the extremities of the second base, being finished, it was necessary to form other triangles, in order to fix the place of the observatory where, when the geometrical observations where finished, the astronomical were to begin. Those which fell to my lot, were a signal on the mountain of Guanacauri, and the tower of the great church of Cuenga; and these angles were taken at the same time the astronomical observations were making. Ar the north extremity of the arch of the meridian new triangles were afterwards formed, as we have al- ready observed in the foregoing chapter. This ren- dered it necessary for us to make choice of different places on these mountains for erecting other signals in order to form these triangles. The same order which had been followed during the whole series of mensuration, that each person should take two angles of every triangle, was observed here; and those as- signed to me were the following. XXXIL Cu. Il. ‘SOUTH AMERICA. 239: XXXII. XXXI. XXXIV. XXXV. Srenats on Guapulo, the mountain of Campanario, and those of Cosin; and Mira. Tue observations to be made at these four stations could not be finished till those alarming reasons which called us to Lima and Chili no longer subsisted, and we were returned to Quito. ‘The work at the first and last stations was dispatched without the necessity of lodging there; for being near Quito and the vil- lage of Mira, when the weather promised us a favour- able opportunity it was only an easy ride; but we found it very different with regard to the stations of Campanario and Cosin. However, we left all the four at the same time, namely, on the 23d of May 1744 5 the day when Don George and myself put the finish- ing hand to the astronomical observations which we had re-assumed on the 14th of February of the: same year; and thus the whole process relative to the mensuration of an arch of the meridian was con- cluded. Signals erected on deserts, Tc. where the observations were conducted by Mr. Godin and Don George Juan. Tue stations immediately subsequent to the admea- surement of the base of Yaruqui, in the year 1736, and afterwards not made use of, as we have already observed, were common to both companies; the me- thod which was afterwards followed, for every one to observe two angles in all the triangles, not having been thought of; though it both shortened the work, - and, at the same time, rendered it much easier: so that Don George Juan and Mr. Godin were on the deserts of Yilahalo and Pambamarca, at the same time with Mess. Bouguer and Condatmine and me 1 ' . » ll A VOYAGE TO Boox. Y. ¿A It, SIGNALS on the extremities of the bare of Yaruqui. In order to make the oy RM observations re- lating to these two signals, they left Quito on the aoth of August 1737, and had Elbieleicia finished. them by the 27th. : TIT. S¥enaz on the desert of Pambamarca. Arter they had concluded all the necessary obser- vations at the extremities of the base, they went with= out delay to the desert of Pambamarca, and complete- ly finished their operations by the first of September. : IV. Srenat on the mountain of Tanlagua. Having finished their observations on the desert, they came down to the little town of Quenche, in that neighbourhood, in order to proceed from thence to Tanlagua; but the Indians, who were to accom- pany cis being no hein to the extreme seve- rity of the weather on that desert, discouraged by their recent sufferings on Pambamarca, and knowing they should still suffer more on Tanlagua, were not to be found; and the lowest class of inhabitants in the town, apprehending that they should be sent on this painful service, also left their habitations and ab- sconded ; so that the joint endeavours of the alcalde and priest to discover them preved ineffectual ; and after a delay of two whole days, the curate, with - great difficulty, prevailed on the sacristan, and other Indians employed in the service of the church, to ac- company them, and take care of the loaded mules as far as the farm-house of Tanlagua, where they arriv- ed the 5th of September. ‘T he next day they began to ascend the mountain, which, being very steep, took them up a whole day in climbing it. But this being more + eii” SOGTEDAMFRIGA *° a4 ntore than the Indians were able to ‘perform, as they carried the field-ten s, baggage, and instruments, they were obliged to stop half way; so that those on the top were under a necessity of passing the night there without any shelter; and a hard frost coming on, they were almost perished with cold; for they: were so greatly affected by it, that they had no use of their limbs till they returned toa warmer air. Af ter all these hardships, the gentlemen could not finish their observations, some of the signals being wanting, having either ‘been blown down by the winds, or carried away by the Indian herdsmen :"so that, during the intervai while persons were employed in erecting others, they returned to Quito, and applied them- selves to examine the divisions of the quadrants. These operations, being very tedious, employed them till the month of December, when, all the signals which were wanting being replaced, they again, on the 20th of December, repaired to their post at Tan- lagua; and on the 27ch finished the observations ne- cessary to be made at that station, e ) V. Srenwat on the meuntain of Guapulo. _ Tue signal of Guapulo being erected on a moun- tain of no great height, and in the neighbourhood of - Quito, their residence was not necessary ; for, by set ting out from the city at day-break, they cou ld reach the field-tent, where Che; instruments were left, early in the morning. These journeys repeated every day, and though every moment of time was improved to the greatest advantage, it was the 24th of January 1738 before they finished the observations, with that accurate precision so Conspicuous inall theiroperations. > VI. Stenatz on the Cordillera and desert of Guamani. ' They were obliged to make two journeys to the mountain of Guamani, the signal having teen first VoL. } R m's- 242 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. misplaced, so as not to be seen from that erected on Corazon; and consequently there was a necessity for removing it. And though, in order to do this, they ascended the mountain on the 23th of Planner they found it necessary to return thithe: on the 7th of Fe- bruary, when they were fortunate enough to finish every thing remaining the very next day. VIT. Srcnat on the desert of Corazon. ‘THis mountain also the gentlemen were obliged to visit twice ; the first journey was on the 20th ‘of Ja- nuary, and the second on the 12ch of March, 1738. VIH. Stcnaz of Limpie-pongo, on the desert of Cotopaxi. THEY went up to the desert of Cotopaxi on the 16th of March, end remained there till the 3 1st y when | they observed that the signal of Guamani was not vi- sible from thence, and therefore it was necessary to erect another in the intermediate space; which being completed on the gth of August, they again repaired to the signal of Limpie-pango, on Cotopaxi; where they finished all their operations by the 13th of the same month, and left every thing in exact order. In * Le the mountain in’ this second j Journey, the mule on which Dón George Juan rode fell down a breach four or five toises “deep, but providentially without receiving the least hurt. | As they had been o bliged to erect another signal between those of Guamani and Limpie-pongo, in order to continue the series of triangles ; so there was also a necessity for returning to some stations, to observe again the angles which had before been de- termined. ‘These operations, together with the ex- periments on the velocity of sound, and the observa- tions at the new signal, filled up the interval from. > Y | the 7 Y \ Cm HÉ SOUTH AMERICA. 243 the time the operations were suspended on Limpie- pongo, till they returned to finish them. IX. Sicnaz on the desert of Chinchulagua. - THE operations of the signal of Chinchulagua, erected on the desert of the same name, were cóm- pleted on the 8th of August; but a doubt arising with regard to one of the angles observed, for the greater certainty, they returned to this station, and again ex- amined the angle in question, after they had finished their observations at Limpie-pongo. X. SIGNAL on the mountain of Papa-urco. AFTER verifying the observation on Chinchulagua, they removed to the signal of Papa-urco, and finished theirbservations in the same month of August. Here they for some time suspended their operations, being called to Quito on affairs of importance, relating to the French academicians. XI. Stenax on the mountain of Milin. _ Tue affairs which had required M. Godin’s pre- sence at Quito being terminated within the month, they returned, on the rst of September, to make the necessary observations at the signal of Milin, where they continued till the 7th, when they left it, having completely finished their operations. XIT. Stcnat on the desert of Chulapu. From Milin they proceeded to the desert of Chula- pu, where they remained till the 18th of September, when they had finished all their observations. Till this signal, exclusive, each company had observed the three angles of all the triangles; both because they differed from one another, and to prove by this pre- cision the errors in the divisions of the quadrants, be- R 2 fore 244 | SBP VORAGE TO Boox VY. fore observed by other methods. But from this signal, inclusive, each company observed two angles only of the other triangles, as had been agreed on. 1 XII. SIGNAL in Jivicatsu. In Jivicatsu they remained from the 18th to the 26th of September. This station was one of the most _agreeable; for, besides the height on which the signal was erected, the temperature of the air, and the cheer- ful aspect of the country, the town of Pilaro was in the neighbourhood, so that nl wanted for nothing. XIV. XV. Sicnazs on the deserts of Mulmul and Guayama. ~ These two deserts are placed together, because. their summits are united by gentle eminences; on one of which is a cow-house, used by the Indians when they go in search of their cattle, which feed on the sides of this mountain. In this cow-house Don George Juan, M. Godin, and their attendants, took up their quarters on the zoth of September, and every morn- ing, when the weather was favourable, repaired to the signal erected on one or other of the eminences. But the distance between the two stations being very small, A and the observations made there requiring to be veri- fied by those of other auxiliary triangles, it was ab- solutely necessary to determine exactly the stations where these triangles were to be formed; and to re- main there till the distances were settled, and the ob- servations relating to them concluded ; which opera- tions, notwithstanding the greatest diligence was used, employed them till the 20th of October. Every thing at the two preceding stations being finished, they repaired to the village of Riobantba, de- termining to continue their work without i interruption; but meeting with some difficulties concerning the most advantageous position of the subsequent triangles, and , money Cir. UT. SOUTH AMERICA. 243 money beginning to grow short with our whole society, both Spaniards and French, it was thought necessary to make use of the interval while the proper places for erecting the signals were determining, to plocure supplies. Accordingly, M. Godin and Dog George Juan azain set out from Riobamba for Quito on the ath of November; but it was the 2d of February fol- lowing befere we had the pleasure of congratulating them.er their return, the former having been seized with a fever, which brought him very low, and detain- ed them a considerable time at Quito, XVI. XVIL SrexaLs on Amula and Sisa-pongo. The observations necessary at the signal of Amula were finished before the journey to Quito ; ; and from the 2d of February 1739, when they returned to Rio- bamba, till the 19th, they were employed i in those re- lating to Sisa-pongo, XVII. SicwaL on the mountain of Sesgum, On the mountain of Sesgum they had occasion to stay only from the 20th to the 23d of February. For this signal stood on the declivity of a mountain, and they vigilantly employédevery moment when the other deserts were free from those clouds in which they are usually involved. XIX. SigGNaL.on the desert of Senegualap, Tue observations at the signal of Senegualap de- tained them from the 23d of February to the 13th of March. ‘The length of the time was indeed the most disagreeab!e part, as otherwise they did not place this among the worst stations they had met with during their course of observations, __ o | XX. Sie- R 3 a s 246 A VOYAGE TO Book V. XX. Sicwaz on the desert of Chusay. From Senegualap they proceeded to the desert of Chusay, a station which gave these gentiemen no less trouble than it had done us. Our company had no concern with the station on this desert; for according to the alternative established between the two compa- nies, that of Senegualap was the place to which we were to repair. But after finishing the observations at Lalanguso, being uneasy at the long stay of M. Go- din and Don George Juan at Quito, to divert our thoughts by some laborious employment, we divided our company into two, in order to prosecute the men- suration, till those gentlemen returned. Accordingly, M. Bouguer, atthe head of one detatchment, went to the signal of Senegualap, and M. de la Condamine and myself repaired to that of Chusay. But M. Godin and Don George Juanyoining us there, we returned to our proper company, and the operations were conti- nued in the order agreed on. XXI Srenax on the desert of Sinasaguan, Turis desert was one of those common to both com. panies; and that of Don George Juan remained on it till the 29th of May, when the observations of both- were finished. ‘Thus every member of the two com=- panies Faia shared an the fatigues of the operations, and in the hardshipsunavoida able in such dreary regions. XXII. SiGNAL on the desert of Quinoaloma, Tue desert ofQuinoaloma, like the former, may be elassed among the most disagreeable stations in the whole series ; for though they repaired hither from Si. nasaguan, it was the 31st of thesamempnth before they . could finish the observations relating to this signal. In their road from Quinoaloma they passed through the town of Azogues; where leaving their instruments : and Cu. Ill. SOUTH AMERICA. 247 and baggage, they went to Cuenca, to survey the plains of Talqui and los Bannos, in order to make choice of one of®hem for measuring the base; and having pitch- ed on the latter, and consulted with us relating to the signals wanting, they returned to the town of Azogues, XXII. Siena on the desert of Y asuay. On the 15th of June they proceeded to the desert of Yasuay, and continued there till the 11th of July; when, havingfinished their observations, they returned to Cuenca, where they employed themselves in mea- suring the base on the plain of los Bannos, and in be- ginning theastronomical observations. This they pro- secuted with incessant diligence till the 10th of De- cember following, when, in order to continue them with the greater precision and certainty, a new instru- ment became necessary, and for this purpose they re- paired to Quito, XXIV. XXV. XXVI XXVIL SicwaLs of Nama. relte, Guanacauri, los Bannos, and the tower of the great church of Cuenga. Wutust they were making the astronomical obser- yations at Cuenga, they also, by unwearied diligence, finished those relating to the geometrical mensuration at the four stations of Namarelte, Guanacauri, los Ban- nos, and the tower of the great church of Cuenga. The first three stations were to connect the base (which reached from Guanacaurt to losBannos) with the series of triangles; and the last served for the observatory jointly with the base. “The observations at all these were completely finished at this time; for though the next year we found it necessary to go toCuenga to re- peat the astronomical observations, yet all the opera- tions relating to the geometrical mensurations were accurately finished at this time, R 4 XXVIII. 248 - A VOYAGE TO Boox Y. “XXVI, XXIX. XXX. XXXL XXXII. Siewats on the mountains cf Guapulo, Pambamarca, Cain- panario, Cuicocha, and Mira. In the year 1744, when we returned tothe provinc of Quito, in order to conclude the whole work, having conquered the difficulties which obliged us to intermit the astronomical observations, as we have already ob- served, Don George Juan added six stations to the series of triangles, there being anecessity for repeating the observations of Guapulo, and Pambamarca, in or- der to extend the seriés of triangles farther to the northward, and of his repairing again to the moun- tains of Campanario and Cuicocha. Here, and at Pambamarca, he was obliged to remain Anillo all the inconveniencies and hardshi ips of those dreadful re- gions, till he had completed the necessary observa- tions; all which he bore with great magnapimity ; but at those of Guapulo ana Mira. which served to connect the observatory, those inconveniencies were avoided; but as thé observations at the last station were jointly performed by both companies, the par- ticulars of them have been already mentioned. COE AWW, . Description of the City of Quito. S in the preceding Ua aes several cities and towns, I have not swelled the accounts with chronological and historical remarks, 1 shall observe the same method with regard to Quito, and only give an accurate account of the present state of this coun- try, the manners and customs of the Inhabitants, and the situation of the several places ; thas such as know them only by name, may avoid those dangerous errors which too often result from forming a judgment of things without a thorough knowledge of them. It | may — Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 249 ' may not, however, be amiss to premise, that this pro- vince was subjected io the empire of Peru, by Tu- pac- -inga-Yupanqui, the eleventh Ynca. “GARCILASO, in his history of the Yncas of Peru u, the best guide we can follow on this subject, beer that this conquest was made by the army of that empe- ror, commanded by his eldest son Hueyna-Capac, who also succeeded him in the empire. | Hueyna-Capac, among other natural children, had one called Ata- Hu. alpa, by a daughter of the last king of Quito; and being extremely fond of him, on account of his many anzia- ble qualities and accomplishments, in order to procure him an honourable settiement, prevailed on his legiti. mate and eldest son Huascar to allow him to hol: ithe kingdom of Quito as a fief of the empire; it being an invariable law, that all conquests weré to be perpetually annexed to the empire, and not alienated from it on any account whatever., Thus Nueyna- Capac enjoyed the satisfaction of seeing his favourite a sovereign of large dominions. But on the death of his father, this prince, of whom such great hopes had been conceived, ungratefully rebelled, seized on the empire, impr isoned his brother, and soon after put him to a violent death. His prosperity . was, however, but of short continuance; for he suffered the same fate by order of Don Francisco Pizarro, wha had sent Sebastian de Belalcazar to make a conquest of the kingdom of Quito. He routed the Indians wherever they ventured to face him; and having soon, by a series of victories, made himself master of the kingdom, and in the year 1534 rebuilt the ca- pital, which had suffered extremely from itestine commotions, called it San Francisco de Quito, a name it still retains, though it was not till seven years after that the title of city was conferred upon Jt. We found from accurate observations, that the city of Quito is situated in the latitude of o deg. 13. min, 33: sec. south, and in 298 deg. 15 min, 45- sec. of longitude 250 A VOYAGE TO Book V. longitude from the meridian of Teneriff. It stands in the inland parts of the continent of South America, and on the eastern skirts of the west Cordillera of the Andes. — Its distance from the coast of the South Sea is about 35 leagues ¥est. Contiguous to it, on the north-west, is the mountain and desert of Pichia cha, not less famous among strangers fon its great height, than among the natives for the great riches it has been imagined to contain ever since the times of idolatry ; and this only from a vague and unsupport-. ed tradition. The city is buiit on the acclivity of that mountain, and surrounded by others of a middling height, among the breaches, or guaycos, as they are called ae which form the eminences of Pichincha. Some of these breaches are cf a considerable depth, and run quite through it, so that great part of the buildings stand upon arches. This renders the streets irregular and extremely uneven, some being built on the ascents, descents, and summits cf the breaches. This city, with regard to magnitude, may be come pared to one of the second order in Europe; but the unevenness of ics situation is a great disadvantage to its appearance. Near it are two spacious plains; one on the south called ‘Turu-bamba, three leagues in length; and the other on the north, termed Inna-Quito, about two; leagues in extent. Both are interspersed with seats‘and cultivated lands, which greatly add to the prospect from the city, being continually covered with a lively verdure, and the neighbouring plains and hills always enamelled with flowers, there being here a perpetual spring. This scene is beautifuily diversified with large numbers of cattle feeding on the eminences, though the luxuriancy of the soil is such, that they cannot consume all the herbage. These two plains contract as they approach the city, and at their junction form a neck of land, co- vered with these eminences on which part of Quito stands, Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. - 261 stands. It may, perhaps, appear strange, that, notwith- standing two such beautiful and extensive plains are so near the city,a situation so very inconvenientshould be preferred to either. But the first founders seem to have had less regard for convenience and beauty, than for preserving the remembrance of their conquest, by building on the site of the ancient capital of the In- dians, who made choice of such places for erecting their towns; probably from their being better adapted to defence. Besides, the Spaniards, during the infancy of their conquest, little imagined this place would ever increase to its present magnitude. Quito, however, was formerly in a much more flourishing condition than at present; the number of its inhabitants being considerably decreased, particularly the Indians, whole streets of whose huts are now forsaken, and in ruins. SouTH-WEST from Quito, on the neck of land. be- longing to the plain of Turu-bamba, is an eminence called Panecillo, or the Little Loaf, from its figure resembling a sugareloaf. Its height is not above a hundred tcises, and between it and the mountains co. vering the east part of the city is a very narrow road. From the south and west sides of the Panecillo issue several streams of excellent water; and from the eminences of Pichincha several brooks flow down the breaches, and by means of conduits and pipes plenti» fully suppiy the whole city with water; whilst che re. mainder, joining in one stream, forms a river called Machangara, which washes the south parts of the city, and is crossed over by a stone bridge. PICHINCHA, in the Pagan times, was a volcano, and even some fiery eruptions have been known since the conquest. The mouth, or aperture, was in a pic nearly of the same height with that on which we took our station; and the top of it is now covered with sand and calcined matter. At present no fire is ¢ > ted, nor does there any smoke issue from it, But some. times the inhabitants are alarmed by dreadful nvises, / caused pen 250 A VOYAGE TO. Boox V. caused by winds confined in its bowels, which cannot fail of recalling to their minds the terrible destruction formerly caused by its eructations, when the whole city and neighbouring country were often, as it were, buried under a deluge of ashes, and the hight of the sum totally intercepted, for three cr four days succes- sively, by impenetrable clouds of dust. In the cen- tre of the plain of Inno-Quico is a place called Rumi- bamba, 1. e. a stony plain, being full of large frag- ments of rocks ieee thither by the ejections of che mountain. We háve already observed, that the mgh- est part of Pichincha is covered with 1ce and snow, considerable quantities of which are brought down to the city, and mixed with the liquors drunk by people of fashion. , Tur principal square in Quito has four sides, in one of which stands the cathedrai, and in the opposite the. episcopal palace; the third side is taken up by the town house, and tite fourth by the palace of the audi- ence. It is very spacious, and has inthe centre an elegant fountain. It is indeed rather disfigured than AA by the palace of the audience; which instead of being kept in repair contermable to the dignity of “government, the greatest part of it has been suffered. fo fall into ruins, and onlv a few hails and offices taken any care of; so that even the outward walis conti-/ nually threaten to demolish the parts now standing. The four streets terminating at the angles of thesquare are straight, broad, and handsome; but at the distance of three or four quadras(or the distance between whe two corners, or stacks of building, and «which here consists of about a hundred yards, more or less) bes gin the troublesome declivities, This inequality de- prives the inhabitants of the use of coaches, or any other wheei-rarriage. Persons of rank, however, to distinguish themselves, are attended bya servant car- tying a large umbrella: and ladies of the first quality are carried in sedans. Except the four streets above mens Ri e / “ ¿¡CuIV SOUTH AMERICA. © 253 «mentioned, all the rest are crooked, and destitute both of symmetry andorder. Some of them are crossed by / breaches, andthe houses stand onthesidesoftheir wind- dag course and irregular projections. Thus some parts of the city are-situated at the bottom of those breaches, while others stand on their summits. The principal Streets are paved; but those which are not, are almost impassable after rain, which is here very common. | Besipes the principal square, there are two others very, spacious, together with several that are smaller, In these the greatest part of the convents are situated, and make a handsome appearance ; the fronts and portals being adorned with all the embellishments of architecture; particularly the convent of the order of Franciscans, which, being wholly,of free-stone, must have costa prodigious sum; and indeed the justness of the proportions, the disposition of the parts, the elegant:taste and execution ofthe. work, render ic equal to most of the admired buildings in Europe. Tue principal houses are large; some of them have spacious and well-contrived apartments, though none are above one story in height, which is seldom without a balcony toward the street; but their;docrs and win- dows, particularly those within, are very low and narrow, following in these particulars the old custom of the Indians, who constantly built their houses among breaches and inequalities, and were also care- ful to mae the doors very narrow. The Spaniards plead in defence of this custom, that the apartments - are freer from wind; but be that as it may, I am in- a Y clined to think that this peculiarity owed its origin to a blind imitation of the Indians. Tue materials made use of in building at Quito are adobes; or unburnt bricks, and clay ; and to the making of the former the earth is so well adapted, that they last a long time, provided they are defended from the rain. They are cemenied or joined together by a certain substance called sangazua, a species of mor- ! tar ., 254 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. tar of uncommon hardness, used by the ancient In- dians for building houses and walis of all kinds, se- veral remains being still to be seen near the.city, and in many other parts of the kingdom, notwithstanding the remarkable inclemency of the weather; a suf- ficient proof of its strength and duration. Tue city is divided into seven parishes, the Segra- rio, (Plate 11.) St. Sebastian, St Barbaria, St. Roque, St. Mark, St. Prisca, and St. Blaize. The cathedral, besides the richness of its furniture, is splendidly adorned with tapestry hangings and other costly de- corations; but in this respect the other parish-churches are so mean as to have scarce necessaries for per= forming divine worship. Some of them are without pavement, and with every other mark of poverty. The chapel del Sagrario is very large, wholly of Stone, and its architecture executed in an elegant taste; nor is the disposition of the inside inferior to the beauty of its external appearance. THE convents of monks. in Quito are those of the Augustines, Dominicans, and the Fathers of mercy ; which are the heads of provinces ; but besides these there is another of Franciscan recollects, another of Dominicans, and another of the Fathers of mercy. In this city is also a college of Jesuits : two colleges for seculars ; one called St. Lewis, of which the Jesuits have the direction; and the other St. Ferdinand, and is under the care of the Dominicans. In the first are twelve royal exhibitions for the sons of auditors and other officets of the crown.' It is also an university under the patronage of St. Gregory. That of the second is a royal foundation, and dedicated to St. Thomas ; the salaries of the professors are paid by the crown. Some of the chairs in this college are filled by graduates, as those apropriated to the canon and civil Jaw, and physic; but the’ latter has been long vacant for want of a professor, though the degrees wouid be dispensed with. ‘The Franciscan ere has Cu. IV. | SOUTH AMERICA. 255 has a college, called San Buena Ventura, for the reli- gious of its order; and, though under the same roof with the convent, has a different government and ceconomv. Quito has also several nunneries; as that of the ‘Conception, the orders of St. Clare, St. Catharine, and two of bare-footed Theresians. Of these one was originally founded in the town of Latacunga; bur havihg, together with the place itself, been destroyed by an earthquake, the nuns removed to Quito, where they have ever since continued. Tue college of Jesuits, as well as all the convents of monks, are very large, well built, and very splen- did. The churches also, though the architecture of some is not modern, are spacious, and magnificently decorated, especially on solemn festivals, when it is amazing to behold the vast quantities of wrought plate, rich hangings, and costly ornaments, which heighten the solemnity of worship, and increase the' reputation of these churches for magnificence. If those of the nunneries do not, on those occasions, exhibit such an amazing quantity of riches, they exceed them in elegance and delicacy. It is quite otherwise in the parish-churches, where poverty 1s conspicuous, even on the most solemn occasions; though this is partly imputed to those who have the care of them. Here is also an hospital, with separate wards for men and women; and though its revenues are not large, yet by a.proper ceconomy they are made to an- swer all the necessary expences, It was'formerly una der the direction of particular persons of the city, who, to the great detriment of the poor, neglected their duty, and some even embezzled part of the money received ; but it is now under the care of the order of our Lady of Bethlehem, and by the attention of these fathers, every thing has put ona different aspect, the whole convent and infirmary having been : ~ rebuilt; 256 A VOYAGE TO Book V. reouilt, and a church erected, which, though small, is very beautiful, and finely decorated, ‘Turis order of our Lady of Bethlehem-has been Jately founded under the name of a Congregation, and had its origin in the province of Guatemala. The name of the founder was Pedro de San Joseph Betas neur, a native of the town of Chasna (or Villa Fuerte) on the island of Teneriff, inthe year 1626. After his death, which happened in the year 1667; his congre- gation was approved of by a bull of Clement X.dated the 16th of May 1672; and still more formally in another of 1674. In 1687, Innocent XI. erected it into a community of regulars; since when it has bes gun to increase in these countries as a religious order. Ic had indeed before passed from Guatemala to Mex- ico, and from thence, in the year 1671, to Lima, where the fathers had the care of the hospital del Carmen. In the city of St. Miguel de Piura, they took possession of the hospital of St. Ann in the year 1678; and of that of St. Sebastian in Truxillo ‘in 1680. And their probity and diligence in dischare- ing these trusts, induced other places to' select them as directors of their hospitals, and among the rest the city of Quito; where, notwithstanding they have been only a few years, they have repaired all former abuses, and putthe hospital on a better footing than it had ever known before. . | Tue fathers of this order go bare-footed, and wear a habit of a dark brown colour, nearly resembling that of the capuchins, which order they also imitate in not shaving their heards. On one side of their cloak is an image of our Lady of Bethlehem. Every sixth year they meet to choose a general; which ceremony is performed alternately at Mexico and Lima. AMONG the courts, whose sessions are held at Quito, the principal is that of the Royal Audience, which was established there in the year 1563, and consists of a president (who is also governor of the province re regar Cu, IV. SGUTH AMERICA. 257 regard to matters of law), four auditors, who are at the same time civil and criminal judges, and a royal fiscal, so called, as, besides the causes brought before the audience, he also takes cognizance of every thing relating to the revenue of the crown. Besides this, there is also another fiscal, called Protector de los In- dios, ‘ protector of the Indians,” who solicits for them, and when injured pleads in their defence. The jurisdiction of this court extends to the utmost limits of the province, with no other appeal than to the council of the Indies, and this only in case of a re- jection of a petition, or flagrant injustice. ‘Tue next is the exchequer, or chamber of finances ; the chief officers of which are an accomptant, a trea- surer, and aroyal fiscal. The revenues paid into the receipt of this court are, the tributes of the Indians of this jurisdiction and those of Orabalo, Villa de Sa Mi- guel de Ibara, Latacunga, Chimbo, and Riobamba ; and also the taxes levied in those parts, and the pro- duce of the customs at Babahoyo, Yaquache, and Caracol: which sums are annually distributed, partly to Carthagena and Santa Marthas for paying the sala- * ries of the presidents, fiscals, corregidors, together with the stipends of the priests, andthe governor» s of Maynas andQuijos; partly for the officers of the Commandries, and partly for the Caciques of the villages. . Tue tribunal de Cruzada, or Croisade, has a commissary, who is generally some dignitary of the church; and a treasurer, who is also the accomptant, through whose hands every thing passes relating to the Croisade. Hereis also a treasury for the effects of persons de- ceased; aninstitution long since established a over the Indies, for receiving the goods of those whose iawful heirs were in Spain, that “thus dl ey might da secured from those accidents towhich, from dishonesty or neg- ligence, they would be liable in private hands, and se- eurely kept for the persons to which they belong: an Yor, I. S Institution 258 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. institution originally very excellent; but now greatly abused, great defalcations being made in the estates before they are restored to their proper owners. Bestpes these tribunals, here is a commissary of the inquisition, with an aleuazil major, and familiars ap-- pointed by the holy office at Lima. THE Corporation consists of a corregidor, two or- dinary alcaldes chosen annually, and reg adores. These superiniend the election of the alcaldes, which is at-. tended with no small disturbance inthis city, persons of 211 ranks being divided into the two parties of Creoles and Europeans or Chapitones, to the great detriment of private repose and sociability. This assembly also nominates the alcalde major of the Indians, who must be a governor of one of the Indian towns within five leagues of the city ; and has under him other inferior alcaldes, for the civil government of it. And this alcalde major, together with the others, are little more than the alguazils, or officers of the corregidor or or- dinary alcaldes of the city ; though, at first, they were invested with much greater powcr. Besides these, here are others, called alcaldes de harrieros, whose business it is to provide mules, &c. for travel. Jers. And though all these are subordinate to the alcalde major, yet he has very little authority over them. Tue cathedral chapter consists of the bishop, dean, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer, adoctoral, a peniten- tiary, a magistral, three canons by presentation, four prebends, and two demi-prebends, with the follow. ing revenues. That of the bishop 24,c00 dollars ; the dean 2500; the four succeeding dignities 2000 each; the canons 1500 each; the prebends 600, and the demi-prebends 420. This church was erected into a cathedral in the year 1545; and among other festivals are celebrated in it, with amazing magnifi- cence, those of Corpus Christi, and the Conception of our Lady, when all the courts, offices, and per. sons Cu.IV. | SOUTH AMERICA. 259 sons of eminence, never fail to assist. But the singu- lar pomp of the procession of the host in the former, and the dances of the Indians, must not be omitted. Every house of the streets through which it passes are adorned with rich hangings 5 and superb tri- umphal arches are erected, with altars at stated di- stances, and higher than the houses, on which, as on the triumphal arches, the spectator sees, with admi- ration, immense quantities .of wrought plate, and jewels, disposed in such an elegant manner as to ren- der the whole even more pieasing than the astonish- ing quantity of riches. ‘Tins splendor, together with the magnificent dresses of the persons who assist at the procession, render the whole extremely solemn, and the pomp‘and decorum are both continued to the end of the ceremony. With regard to the dances, it 1s a custom, both among the parishes of Quito and all those of the mountains, for the priest, a month before the celebra- tion of the feasts, to select a number of Indians who are to be the dancers. These immediately begin to practise the dances they used before their conversion to Christianity. The music 1s a pipe and tabor, and the most extraordinary of their motions some awk- ward capers ; in short, the whole is little to the taste of an European. Within a few days of the solem- nity, they dress themselves in a doublet, a shirt, and a woman’s petticoat, adorned in the finest manner possible. Over their stockings they wear a kind of - pinked buskins, on which are fastened a great num- ber of bells. Their head and face they cover with a kind of mask, formed of ribbands of several colours. Dressed in this fantastical garb, they proudly call themselves angels, unite in companies of eight or ten, and spend the whole day in roving about the streets, highly delighted with the jingling of their bells; and frequently stop and dance, to gain the ap- plauses of the ignorant multitude, who are strangers 92 to 260 "A VOYAGE TO Boox V. to elegant dancing. But what is really surprising, is, that without any pay, or view of interest, unless they think it a religious duty, they continue this ex- ercise a whole fortnight before the grand festival, and a month after it, without minding either their labour or families; rambling about, and dancing the whole day, without being either tired or disgusted, though the number of their admirers daily decrease, and the applause is turned into ridicule. . THE same dress is worn by them in other proces- sions, and at the bull-feasts, when they are excused from labour, and therefore highly pleased with them. THE corporation and cathedral chapter keep, by vow, two annual festivals in honour of two images of the Virgin, which are placed in the villages of Guapulo and Quinche, belonging to this jurisdiction. They are brought with great solemnity to Quito, where a festival is celebrated, with great magnificence and rejoicing, and is succeeded by nine days devotion, the Audience and other courts assisting at the festival. The statues are afterwards returned with the same solemnity to their respective churches, the first of- which is one league from Quito, and the other six. These festivals are held in commemoration of the mercy and assistance vouchsafed by the holy Virgin at the time of an earthquake and terrible ejections from Pichincha, by which Latacunga, Hambato, and a great part of Riobamba, were utterly destroyed ; while the prayers offered up at Quito to the holy Virgin induced her to interpose in so singular a manner, that not the least misfortune attended this city, though apparently in, equal danger with those which suffered. CHAP. Ch. V. - SOUTH AMERICA. 261 CHAP. V. Of the Inhabitants of Quito. HIS city is very populous, and has, among its inhabitants, some families of high rank and distinction; though their number is but small consi- dering its extent, the poorer class bearing here too great a proportion. The former are the descendants either of the original conquerors, or of presidents, auditors, or other persons of character, who at dif- ferent times came over from Spain invested with some lucrative post, and have still preserved their lustre, -both of wealth and descent, by intermarri- ages, without intermixing with meaner families though famous for their riches. THe commonalty may be divided into four classes; Spaniards or Whites, Mestizos, Indians or Natives, and Negroes, with their progeny. ‘These last are not propor.ionally so numerous as in the other parts of the Indies; occasioned by it being something in- convenient to bring Negroes to Quito, and the dif- ferent kinds of agriculture being generally performed by Indians. Tue name of Spaniard here has a different mean- ing from that of Chapitone or European, as properly signifying a person descended from a Spaniard with- out a mixture of blood. Many Mestizos, from the advantage of a fresh complexion, appear to be Spaniards more than those who are so in reality; and from only this fortuitous advantage are accounted as such. ‘The Whites, according to this construc- tion of the word, may be considered as one sixth part of the inhabitants. Tue Mestizos are the descendants of Spaniards and Indians, and are to be considered here in the same different degrees between the Negroes and Whites, DIR as $ 262 | A. VOYAGE TO Book V. as before at Carthagena; but with this difference, that at Quito the degrees of Mestizos are not carried so far back ; for, even in the second or third gene- rations, when they acquire the European colour, they are considered as Spaniards. The complexion of the Mestizos is swarthy and reddish, but not of that red common in the fair Mulattos. This is. the first degree, or the rmmediate issue of a Spaniard and Indian. Some are, however, equally tawny with the Indians themselves, though thev are distin- guished from them by their beards: while others, on the contrary, have so fine a complexion tnat they might pass for Whites, were it not for some signs which betray "em, when viewed attentively. Among these, the most remarkable is the lowness of the fore- . head, which often leaves but a small space between their hair and eye-brows ; at the same time the hair grows remarkably forward on the temples, extend- ing to the lower part of the ear. Besides, the hair it- se if is harsh, lank, coarse, and very black ; their nose very small, thin, and has a little y: ‘sing on the middle, from whence it forms a small curve, termi- nating in a point, bending towards the upper Jip. These marl:s, besides some dark spots on the body, are so eases: and invariable, as tomake it very difh- cult to conceal the fallacy of their complexion. The Mestizos may be reckoned a third part of the inhabi- tants. Tre next class is the Indians, who form about an- other third ; and the others, who are about one sixth, are the Casts. These four classes, according to the most authentic accounts taken from the parish regis- ter, amount to between 50 and 60,000 persons, of all ages, sexes, andranks. If among these classes the Spaniards, as 1s natural to think, are the most eml- nent for riches, rank, and power, it must at the same time be owned, however thelancholy the truth may ap- pear, they are in proportion the most poor, ci an Ch, V. SOUTH AMERICA. 263 and distressed ; for they refuse to:apply themselves to -any mechanic business, considering it as a disgrece.to that quality they so highly value themselves upon, which consists in not being black, brown, or of a cop- per-colour. The Mestizos, whose pride is regulated by prudence, readily apply themselves to arts and trades, but chuse those of the greatest repute, as paint- ing, sculpture, and the like, leaving the meaner sort to the Indians. They are observed to excel inall, particu- larly painting and sculpture ; in the former a Mes tIZO, - called Miguel de Santiago, acquired great reputation, some of his works being still preserved and highly valued, while others were carried even to Rome, “where they were honoured with the unanimous ap- plauses of the virtuosi. They are remarkably ready and excellent at imitation, copying being indeed best adapted to their phlegmatic genius. And what ren- ders their exquisite performances still more admirable is, that they are destitute of many of the instruments and tools requisite to perform them with any tolerable degree of accuracy. But, with these talents, they are so “excessively indolent and slothful, that, instead of working, they often loiter about the streets during the whole day. The Indians, who are generally shoemakers é bricklayers,, weavers, and the like, are not more in- dustrious. Of these the most active and tractable are the barbers and phlebotomists, who, in their respec- tive callings, are equal to the most expert hands in Eu- rope. The shoemakers, on the other hand, distinguish themselves by such supineness and sloth, that very of ten you have no other way left to obtain the shoes you have bespoke, than to procure materials, seize on the Indian, and lock him up till they are finished. This is indeed partly owing to a wrong custom of paying for the work before it is done; and when the Indian has once got the money, he spends it all in chicha*, so that while it lasts he is never sober ; and it is natural * A kind of beer or ale made of maize, and very intoxicating. S 4 to 264 A VOYAGE TO Boox V to think that it will not be easy afterwards to prevail on him to work for what he has spent. Tue dress here differs from that used in Spain, but less so with the men than of the women. ‘The for- mer, who wear a black cloak, have under it a long. coat, reaching down to their knees, with a close sleeve, open at the sides, without folds; and along the seams of the body, as well as those of’ the sleeves, are but- ton-holes, and two rows of buttons, for ornament. In every other particular, people of fortune affect great magnificence in their dress, wearing very commonly the finest eold and silver tissues. Tue Mestizos in general wear blue cloth, manuface tured in this country. And though the lowest class of Spaniards are very ambitious of distinguishing them- selves from them, either by the colour or fashion of the clothes, little difference is to be observed. Tse most singular dress, with regard to its mean- ness, is that of the Indians, which consists only of white cotten drawers, made either from the stuffs of the country, or from others brought from Europe. They come down to the calf of the leg, where they hang loose, and are edged with a lace suitable to the stuff. The use of a shirt is supplied by a black cotton frock, wove by the natives. Fi is made inthe form of a sack, with three openings at the bottom, one in the middie for the head, and the others at the corners for the arms, and thus cover their naked bodies down to the knees, Over this is a capisayo, a kind of serge cloak, having a hole in the middle for putting the head through, and a hat, made by the natives. This is their general dress, and which they never lay aside, ‘not even while they slecp. And use has so inured them to the weather, that, without any additional clothing or covering for their legs or feet, they travel in the coldest parts with the same readiness as in the warinest. o THE. \ Cu. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 265 Tue Indians who have acquired some fortune, particularly the barbers:and phlebotomists, are very careful to distinguish themselves from their country- men, both by the fineness of their drawers, and also by wearing ashirt, though without sleeves. Round the neck of the shirt they wear a lace four or five fin- gers in breadth, hanging entirely round like a kind of ruff or band. One favourite piece of finery is silver or gold buckles for their shoes; but they wear no stockings or other coverings on their legs. Instead of the mean capisayo, they wear a cloak of fine cloth, and often adorned with gold or silver Jace. Tue dress of the ladies of the first rank consists of a petticoat already described in our account of Guaya- quil. On the upper parts of their body they wear a shift, on that a loose jacket laced, and over alla kind © of bays, but made into no form, being worn just as cut from the piece. Every part of their dress is, as it were, covered with lace; and those which they wear on days of ceremony are always of the richest stuffs, with a profusion of ornaments. Their hair is gene- rally made up in tresses, which they form into a kind of cross, on the nape of the neck; tying a rich rib- band, called balaca, twice round their heads, and with the ends form a kind of rose at their temples. These roses are elegantly intermixed with diamonds and flow- "ers. When they go to church, they sometimes wear a full petticoat; but the most usual dress on these oc. casions is the veil. | Tue Mestizo women affect to dress in the same manner as the Spanish, though they cannot equal them in the richness oí their stuffs. The meaner sort go bare- footed. Two kinds of dresses are worn by tiie Indian women; but both of them made in the same plain manner with those worn by the men: the whole con- sisting of a short petticoat, and a veil of American bays. The dress of the lowest clags of Indian women is in effect only a bag of the same make and stuff as the frocks 266 |. )VALSOPA GE TO Boox V. frocks of the men, and called anaco. This they fasten on the shoulders with two large pins called tupu, or topo. ‘The only particular in which it differs from the frock is, that it is something longer, reaching down to the calf of the les, and fastened round the waist with a kind ¡of girdle. Instead of a veil, they wear about their neck a piece of the same coarse stuff dyed black, and called Litella; but their arms and legs are wholly naked. Such is the habit with which the low- er class of Indian women are contented. - THe caciquesses, or la idian women, who are married to the alcaldes majors, governors, and others, are careful to distinguish themselves from the common people by their habits, which is a mixture of the two former, being a petticoat of bays adorned with rib- ‘bands ; over this, instead of the anaco, they wear 2 kind of black manteau, called acso. It is wholly open on one side, plaited from top to bottom, and general- ly fastened round the waist witha girdle. Instead of the scanty Lliella which the common Indian women wear hanging from their shoulders, these appear in one much fuller, and all over platted, hanging down from the back part of their head almost to the bot- tom of the pecticoat. ‘This mey fasten before with a large silver bodkin, called also tupu, like those used in the anaco, Their head-dress 1s a piece of fine linen curiously plaited, and the end hanging down: behind: this they call colla, and is worn both for distinction and ornament, and to preserve them from the heat of the sun; and these ladies, that their supe- riority may not be called in question, never appear abroad without shoes. This dress, together with that universaily worn by Indians, mea and women, is the same with that used in the time of the Yncas, for the propriety of distinguishing the several classes, The Caciques at present use no other than that of the more wealthy Mestizos, namely, the cloak and hat; but a, Cu. Y. > SOUTH AMERICA. 267 but the shoes are what chiefly distinguish them from the common Indians. Tue men, both Creoles and Spaniards, are well made, of a proper stature, and of a lively and agree- able countenance. The Mestizos in general are alfo well made, often taller than the ordinary size, very robust, and have an agreeable air. The Indians, both men and women, are generally low, but well pro- portioned, and very strong; though more natural de- fects are to be observed among them than in the other classes of the human species: some are remarkably short, some ideots, dumb and blind, and others de- ficient in some of their limbs. Their hair is gene- rally thick and long, which they wear loose on their shoulders, never tying or tucking it up, even when they go to sleep. But the Indian women plait theirs behind with ribband, and the part before they cut a little above the eye-brows from one ear to another; which form of hair they call urcu, and are so ford of this natural ornament, that the greatest affront pos- sible to be offered to an Indian of either sex, 1s to cut off their hair; for whatever corporal punishment their masters think proper to inflict on them, they bear with a dutiful tranquillity; but this is a disgrace they never forgive; and accordingly it was found neces- sary for the government to interpose, and Jimit this punishment to the most enormous crimes. ‘The co- Jour of their hair is generally a deep black ; itis Jank, harsh, and coarse as that of horses. The Mestizos, on the other hand, by way of distinguishing them- selves from the Indians, cut off their hair; but the women do not in this respect follow the ex- ample of their husbands. The Indians have no beard ; and the greatest alteration occasioned by their arriving at the years of maturity, is only-a few strag- gling hairs on the chin, but so short and thin as ne- ver to require the assistance of the razor; nor nee either 268 A VOYAGE TO - Book V- either males or females any indications of the age of puberty. Tue youths of family are here instructed in philo- sophy and divinity, and some proceed to the study of the civil law, but follow that profession with re- luctance. In these sciences they demonstrate a great deal of judgment and vivacity, but afe very deficient in historical and political knowledge, as well as other sciences, which improve the human understanding, and carry it to a certain degree of perfection not other- wise attainable. This is, however, their misfortune, not their fault; being owing to the want of proper persons to Instruct them ; for with regard to those who visit this country on commercial affairs, their minds have generally another turn, and their whole time is devoted to acquire riches. Thus after seven or eight years of scholastic instruction, their knowledge is very limited; though endowed with geniuses capa- ble of making the greatest progress in the sciences. In the women of rank here, their beauty is blended with a graceful carriage and an amiable temper; qualities indeed common to the whole sex in this part of America. Their children are always educated un- der their own eyes, though little to their adv antage, their extreme fondness prevencion them from seeing those vices which so often bring youth to ruin and ine famy ; nor is it uncommon for them to endeavour to hide the vices of the son from the knowledge of the father; andin case of detection, to interpose passionate- ly in defence of their favourite, in order to prevent his being properly corrected. Tris country is observed to abound more in women than men; acircumstance the more remarkable, as those causes which in Europe induce mentoleave their country, namely, travelling, commerce, and war, can hardly be said to subsist here. Numbers of families may be found in this country, that have a great va- riety Dai WMis SOUTH AMERICA, 269 riety of daughters, but not one son among them. Nature also in the male sex, especially those who have been tenderly brought up, begin to decay at the age of thirty; whereas “the females rather enjoy a more confirmed state of health and vigour. The cause of this may, in a great measure, be owing to the climate; food may also contribute to it; but the principal cause, | make no doubt, is their early intemperance and voluptuousness ; this debilitates the stomach, so that the organs of digestion cannot perform their pro- er office ; and accordingly many constantly eject their victuals an hour or two after their meals. Whe- ther this be owing to a custom now become natural, or forced, the day they fail of such ejection, they are sure to find themselves indisposed. But amidst all their weaknesses and iadispositions they live the ge- neral time, and many even arrive at a very advanced age. "Tar only employment of persons of rank, who are not ecclesiastics, is from time to time to visit their estates or chacaras, wuere they reside during the time of harvest; but very few of them ever apply them- selves to commerce, indolently permitting that lu. crative branch to be possessed entirely by the Chapi- tones or Europeans, who travel about the country, and pursue their interest with great assiduity. Within the city, however, some fem Creoles and Mestizos so far overcome their indolent dispositions as to keep shops. Tue want of proper employments, together with the sioth so natural to the inhabitants of this country, and the great neglect of education in the common peo- ple, are the natural parents of that fondness so remark- able in these parts for balls and entertainments ; and these at Quito are both very trequent, and carried to such a degree of licentiousness and audacity, as cannot be thought of without detestation ; not to mention the many tumults and quarrels which thence derive their 270 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. their origin. But such brutality may be considered as the natural consequence of the rum and chicha, which on these occasions are drunk in enormous quantities. It must, however, be remembered, that no person of any rank or character is ever seen at these meetings, their festivity being conducted with the strictest decency and decorum. Rum is commonly drunk here by persons of all ranks, thongh very moderately by those of fashion; particularly at entertainments, when it is made into a kind of cordial. They prefer it to wine, which they say disagrees with them. The Chapitones also accus+ tom thems elves to this liquor; wine, which is brought from Lima, being very scarce and dear. Their favour- ite liquor is brandy, brought also from Lima, and is less inflammative than rum. The disorders arising from the excessive use of spirituous liquors are chiefly seen among the Mestizos, who are continually drink- ing while they are masters of any money. The lower class of women, among the Creoles and Mestizos, are also addicted to the same species of debauchery, and drink excessively. ANOTHER common liquor in this country Is the mate, which answers to tea in the East indies, though the method of preparing and drinking it is something different. It is made from an herb, which. 3 in all ‘Hane parts of America is known by the name of Paraguay, as being the produce of that country., Some of it is put into a calebash tipped with silver, called here mate or totumo, witl a sufficient quantity of sugar, and some ccld water, to macerate it. After it has continued in this manner some time, the calebash is filled with boiling water, and the herb being reduced to a powder, they drink the liquor through a pipe fixed in the calebash, and having a strainer before the end of it. In this manner the calebash ‘is filed seve- ral times with water and fresh supplies of sugar, ull the herb subsides to the bottom, a sufficient indica» tion a> A e ' Cu. V. SOUTH AMERICA. ' 271 tion that a fresh quantity is wanting. — Ttis also usual to squeeze into the liquor a few drops of the juice of lemons or Seville oranges, mixed with some perfumes from odoriferous flowers. This is their usual drink in the morning fasting, and many use it also as their ‘evening regale. I have’ nothing to object against the salubrity and use of this liquor 3 5 but the manner of drinking it is certainly very indelicate, the whole company drinking successively through the same pipe. Thus the mate is carried several times round the com- pany, till all are satisfied. The Chapitones make very little use of it; but among the Creoles it is the highest enjoyment; so that even when they travel, they never fail to carry with them a sufficient quantity of it. This may indeed be owing in some measure to the dispatch and facility with which it is Cane, but till they have taken their dose of mate, they never Cat. THERE isno vice to which idleness is not a prelimi- nary; nor is sloth ever unaccompanied with some vice or other. What must then be the state of moraiity in a country where the greatest part of the people have no work, employment, or calling, to occupy their thoughts; nor any idea of intellectual entertain- ment? The prevalence of drunkenness has been al. ready mentioned, and the destructive vice of gaming is equally common. But in the latter, persons of rank and opulence, whose example is always follow- ed, have led the way ; and their inferiors have univer- sally foilowed in their destructive paths, to the ruin of families, and the breach of conjugal affection; some losing their stocks in trade, others the very clothes from their backs, and afterwards those belonging to their wives, risking the latter to recover their own. Thispropensicy in the Indiansfor gaming has by some been imputed to causes, in which I can perceive no manner of relation. To me it plainly appears ows ing to the leisure of some, who know not how to pa their 277 A VOYAGE TO - Boox V. their time, and to the natural sloth and idleness of others. Tue common people and Indians are greatly ad- dicted to theft, jn which 1t must be owned they are very artful and dextrous. The domestics also can- not be said to be entirely free from this fault, which is attended with the inconvenience of reserve and sus- picion on the part of their master. The Mestizos do not want for audacity in any kind of theft or robbe- ry, though in themselves arrant cowards. Thus, even at an unseasonable hour, they will not venture to at- tack any one in the street; but their common prac- tice is, to snatch off the person’s hat, and immediate- ly seek their safety in their flight; so that before the person robbed can recover himself the thief is out of sight. However trifling this may seem, yet some- times the capture is very considerable; the hats ge- nerally worn by persons of any rank, and even by the wealthy citizens when dressed in their cloaks, are of white beaver, and of themselves worth 15 or 20 dol- lars, or more, of the Quito currency, besides a hatband of gold or silver lace, fastened with a gold buckle set with diamonds or emeralds. It 1s very rare that any such things as a robbery on the highway is heard of; and even these may be rather accounted housebreak- ing, as they are either committed by the carriers them- selves or their servants. In order to.execute their most remarkable pieces of villany within the city, they set fire, during the darkness-of the night, to the doors of such shops or warehouses, where they flatter them- selves with the hopes of finding some specie; and hav- ing made a hole sufficiently large for a man to creep through, one of them enters the house, while the others stand before the hole to. conceal their accom- plice, and to receive what he hands out to them. In order to prevent such practices, the.principal traders are at the expence of kceping a guard, which patroles all night through the streets where attempts of Cu. Y. SOUTH AMERICA. 273 of this kind are most to be apprehended; and thus the shops are secured; for in case any house or shop 1s broke open, the commander of the guard is obliged to make good the damage received. NrITHER the Indians, Mestizos, nor any of thelow- est class of people, think the taking any eatables a rob- bery; and the Indians have a particular rule of con- duct in their operations, namely, if one of them hap- pens,to be ina room where there are several vessels of silver, or other valuable effects, he advances slowly, and withthe utmost circumspection, and usually takes only one piece, and that the least valuable, imagining that it will not be so soon missed as ifhe had taken one of greater price. If detected in the fact, he reso- lutely denies it, with a yanga, a very expressive word in his language, and now often used by the Spaniards of this country, signifying that it was done without any necessity, without any profit, without any bad in- tention. It is indeed a word of such extent in discul- pating, that there is no crime to which it is not appli- cable with regard to the acquittal of the delinquent. If he has not been seen in the very fact, be the circum- stances ever so plain against him, the theft can never be ascertained, no Indian having ever been known to confess. | In Quito, and in all the towns and villages of its province, different dialects are spoken, Spanish being no less common than the Inga. The Creoles, in par- ticular, use the latter equally with the former; but both are considerably adulterated with borrowed words and expressions. The first language generally spoken by children is the Inga ; the nurses being Indians, many of whom do not understand a word of Spanish. Thus, the children being first used to the Indian pronun- ciation, the impression is so strong on their minds, that few can be taught to speak the Spanish language before they are five or six years old; and the cor- ruption adheres so strongly to them, that they speak PMOL. I. E a Jargon 274 A VOYAGE TO Bock V a jargon composed of both; an impropriety which also gains ground among the Europeans, and even persons of rank, when once they begin to understand the language of the country. But what is still more inconvenient, they use improper words; so that a Spaniard ae not accustomed to er dialect, has often need of an interpreter. - THE sumptuous manner of performing the last offices to the dead, mentioned in the description of Carthagena, is frugal and simple, if compared to that ' used at Quito and all its jurisdiction. Their ostenta- tion is so enormous in this particular, that many fa- milies of credit are ruined by a preposterous emu- lation ofexcelling others. The inhabitants may there- fore be properly said to toil, scheme, and endure the ercatest labour and fatigue, merely to enable their successors to bury them in a pompous manner. The deceased must have died in very mean circumstances indeed, if all the religious communities, together with the chapter of the cathedral, are not invited to his funeral, and during the precession the bells tolled in all the churches. After the body is committed to the earth, the obsequies are performed 1 in the same ex- pensive manner, besides the anniversary which is so- lemnized at the end of the year. Another remark- able instance of their vanity is, never to bury in their own parish church; so that any one seen to be buried in that manner may be concluded to have been of the lowest class, and to have died wretchedly poor. The custom of making an offering either at the ob- sequies or anniversary, is still cbserved, and generally consists of wine, bread, beasts, er fowls, according to the ability or inclination of the survivor. THoucn Quito cannot be compared to the other cities in these parts for riches, yet it is far removed from poverty. It appears from several particulars to have been in a much more fourishing state; but at present, though it has many substantial inhabitants, yet Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 578 yet few of them are of distinguished wealth, which in general consists in landed estates, applied to several uses, as I shall show in the sequel. Here are also no very splendid fortunes raised by trade. Consequently it may be inferred, that the city is neither famous for riches, nor remarkable for poverty. Here are indeed considerable estates, though their produce is not at all equal to their extent: but the commerce, though small, is continual. It must also be observed, to the credit of this city, that the more wealthy families have large quantites of plate, which 1s daily made use of; and indeed, through the several classes, their tables are never destitute of one piece of plate at least. CEN VE Of the Temperature of the Air at Quito; Distinction besween Winter and Summer ; Inconveniences, Advan- tages, and Distempers. Es Bie form a right judgment of the happy tem- perature of the air of Quito, experience must be made use of, to correct the errors which would arise from mere speculation; as without that unerring guide, or the information of history, who would imagine, that in the centre of the torrid zone, or ra- ther under the equinoctial, not only the heat is very tolerable, but even, in some parts, the cold painful ; and that others enjoy all the delights and advantages of a perpetual spring, their fields being always co- vered with verdure, and enameiled with flowers of the most lively colours! The mildness of the climate, free from the extremes of cold and neat, and the constant equality of the nights and days, render a country. pleasant and fertile, which uninformed reafon 6 EZ would, 276 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. would, from its situation, conclude to be uninhabitable: nature has here scattered her blessings with so liberal a hand, that this country surpasses those of the tem- perate zones, where the vicissitudes of winter and summer, and the change from heat to cold, cause the extremes of both to be more sensibly felt. Tue method taken by nature to render this country a delightful habitation, consists in an assemblage of circumstances, of which if any were wanting, it would either be utterly uninhabitable, or subject to the great- est inconveniences. But by this extraordinary assem- blage, the effect of the rays of the sun is averted, and the heat of that glorious planet moderated. The principal circumstance in this assemblage is its ele- vated situation above the surface of the sea; or, ra- ther, of the whole earth; and-thus not only the re- flexion of the heat is diminished, but by the eleva- tion of this country, the winds are more subtile, con- celation more natural, and the heat abated. These are such natural effects as must doubtless be attri- buted to its situation; and is the only circumstance from whence such prodigies of nature, as are ob- served here, can proceed. In one part are mountains of a stupendous height and magnitude, having their summits covered with snow ; on the other, volcanoes flaming within, while their summits, chasms, and aper= tures, are involved in ice. The plains are temperate; the breaches and valleys hot; and, lastly, according to the disposition of the country, its high or low situation, we find all the variety of gradations of temperature, possible to be conceived between the two extremes of heat and cold. Quito is so happily situated, that neither the heat nor cold is troublesome, though the extremes of both may be felt in its neighbourhood ; a singularity suf ficiently demonstrated by the following thremome-: trical experiments. On the 31st of May, 1736, the li- guor in the thermometer stood at 1011: at halfanhour after | Cn. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 377 after twelve at noon at1o14: on the first of June at six in the morning at 1011; and at noon at 10122. But what renders this equality still more delightful is, that it is constant throughout the whole year, the dif. ference between the seasons being scarce perceptible. Thus the mornings are cool, the remainder of the day warm, and the nights of an agreeable tempera- ture. Hence the reason is plain, why the inhabitants of Quito make no difference in their dress during the whole year; some wearing silks or light stuffs, at the same time others are dressed in garments of substantial cloth; and the former as little incommoded by the cold, as the latter are by heat. Tue winds are healthy, and blow continually, but never with any violence. ‘Their usual situations are north and south, though they sometimes shift tu other quarters, without any regard to the season of the year, Their incessant permanence, notwithstanding their constant variations, preserves the country from any violent or even disagreeable impressions of the rays of the sun. So that, were it not for some inconveniences to which this country is subject, it might be consi- dered as the most happy spot on the whole earth. But when these disagreeable incidents are considered, all its beauties are buried in obscurity ; for here are dreadful and amazing tempests of thunder and light- ning, and the still more destructive subterraneous earthquakes, which often surprise the inhabitants in the midst of security. The whole morning, till one or two in the afternoon, the weather is generally ex- tremely delightful; a bright sun, serene and clear sky, are commonly seen; but afterwards the vapours be- gin to rise, the whole atmosphere is covered with black clouds, which bring on such dreadful tempests of thunder and lightning, that all the neighbouring mountains tremble, and the city too often ieeis their dreadful effects. Lastly, the clouds discharge them: selvesin such impetuous torrents of rain, that in a very a4 short 278 A VOYAGE TO Book V. short time the streets appear like rivers, and the squares, though sicuaied on a slope, like lakes. This dreadful scene generally continues til near sun-set, when: the weather clears up, and nature again puts on the beautiful appearance of the morning. Some- times, indeed, the rains continue all the night, and they have been known to last three or four days successively. On the other hand, this general course of the wea- ther has its exceptions, three, four, or six, or even eight fine days succeeding each other ; though, aíter raining six or eight days in the manner above men- tioned, it is rare that any falis during the two or three succeeding. But, fromthe most judicious observations, it may be concluded, that these intervals of fine or foul weather make up only one fifth of the days of the year. The distinction of winter and summer consists in a very minute difference observable between the one and the other. The interval between the month of September, and April, May, or June, is here called the winter season ; and the other months compose the summer. In the former season the rain chiefly pre- vails, and in the second the inhabitants frequently enjoy intervals of fine weather; but whenever the rains are discontinued for above a fortnight, the in- habitants are in the utmost consternation, and public prayers are offered up for their return, On the other hand, when they continue any time without inter- mission, the like fears return, and the churches are again crowded with supplicants for obtaining fine weather. For a long drought here is productive of dangerous distempers; and a continual rain, without any intervals of sunshine, destroys the fruits of the earth; thus the ‘inhabitants are under a continual anxiety. Besides the advantages of-the rains for mo- derating the intense rays of the sun, they are also of the greatest benefit in cleansing the streets and squares of Ch. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 279 ‘of the city, which, by the filthiness of the common people at all hours, are every where full of ordure. EaRTHQUAKEs cannot be accounted a less terrible circumstance than any of the former; and if not so frequent as in other cities of these parts, they are far from being uncommon, and often very v iolent. While we continued in this city and its jurisdiction, I particu- larly remember two, when several country-seats and farm-houses were thrown down, and the greater part of the numerous inhabitants buried in ruins. It is doubtless to some unknown quality of the temperature of the air, that the city owes one re- markable cohvenience, which cannot fail of greatly recommending it; namely, being totally free from moschitos or other insects of that ! cind, which almost render life a burthen in hot countries. They are not known to the inhabitants; even a flea is seldom seen here; nor are the people molested with venomous: reptiles. In short, the only troublesome insect is the pique or nigua, whose noxious effects have been al- ready treated of. ‘THoucu the plague or pestilence, in its proper sense, be not known here, no instance of its ravages having appeared in any part of America, yet there are, some distempers which have many symptoms of it, but concealed under the names of malignant spotted fevers and pleurisies ; and these generally sweep away such prodigious numbers, that, when they prevail, the city may with propriety be said to be visited with a pestilential contagion. Another disease common here is that called mal del valle, cr vicho; a dis- temper so general, that, at the first attack of any ma- lady, they make use of medicines a adapted to the cure sof it, from its usually seizing a person two or three days ‘after a fever. But M. de Jussieu often observed, - that the remedies were generally administered to per- sons not at all affected by the distemper, which, in his opinion, is a gangrene in the rectum; a disease Se very 230 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. very common in that climate, and consequently at the first attack all means should be used to prevent its progress. Persons who labour under a flux are most liable to that malady; but the inhabitants of this country being firmly persuaded that there can be no distemper that is not accompanied with the vicho, the cure is never delayed. The operation must be at- tended with no small pain, as a pessary, composed of gun-powder, guinea-pepper, and a lemon peeled, is insinuated into the anus, and changed two or three times a day, till the patient is judged to be out of danger. Tue venereal disease is here so common, that few persons are free from it, though its effects are much more violent in some than in others; and many are afflicted with it, without any of its external symptoms. Even little children, incapable by their age of having contracted it actively, have been known to be attacked in the same manner by it as persons who have ac- quired it by their debauchery. Accordingly there is no reason for caution in concealing this distemper, its commonness effacing the disgrace that in other coun- tries attends it. The principal cause of its prevalence is, negligence in the cure. For the climate favours the operations of the medicines, and the natural tem- perature of the air checks the malignity of the virus more than in other countries. And hence few are salivated for it, or will undergo the trouble of a radi- cal cure. This disease must naturally be thought in some measure to shorten their lives; though it is not uncommon to see persons live seventy years or more, without ever having been entirely free from that dis- | temper, either hereditary, or contracted in their early youth. Dvurine the continuance of the north and north-east winds, which are the coldest from passing over the frosty deserts, the inhabitants are afflicted with very painful catarrhs, called pechugueras. The air is then somes Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 231 something disagreeable, the mornings being so cold as to require warmer clothing; but the sun soon di- sperses this inconvenience. As the pestilence, whose ravages among the human species in Europe, and other parts, are so dreadful, is unknown both at Quito and throughout al] America, so is also the madness in dogs. And though they have some idea of the pestilence, and call those diseases si- milar in their effects by that name, they are entirely ignorant of the canine madness; and express their astonishment when an European relates the melan- choly effects of it. Those inhabitants, on the other hand, are here subject to a distemper unknown in Eu- rope, and may be compared to the small-pox, which few or none escape; but having once got through it, they have nothing more to apprehend from that quar- ter. Thisdistemper is one of those called peste; and its symptoms are convulsions in every part of the bedy, a continual endeavour to bite, delirium, vomit- ing blood; and those whose constitutions «re not ca- pable of supporting the conflicts of the distemper, perish. But this is not peculiar to Quito, being equal- ly common throughout all South America. CEIAPS VIL Fertility of the Territories of Quito, and the common Food of its Inhabitants. HOUGH an account of the fruits should na- turally succeed that of the climate, I determin- ed, on account of their variety, and their being dif ferent in different parts, to defer a circumstantial de- scription, till I come to treat more particularly of each of the jurisdictions. So that I shall here only take a transient view of the perennial beauty and pleasant- ness of the country; which has hardly its equal in any part 032 A VOYAGE TO Boox V, part of the known world: the equability of its air ex. empts it from any sensible changes, whereby the plants, corn, and trees, are stripped of their verdure and Or= naments, their vegetative powers checked, and them- selves reduced to a torpid inactivity. The fertility of this country, if fully described, would appear to many incredible, did nct the consideration of the equality and benignity of the climate inforce its probability. For both the degrees of cold and heat are here so hap- pily determined, that the moisture continues, and the earth seldom fails of being cherished by the fertiliz- ing beams of the sun, some part of every day; and therefore it is no wonder that this country should enjoy a greater degree of fertility than those where the same causes do not concur ; especially if we consider, that there is no sensible difference throughout the year; so that the fruits and beauties of the several seasons are here seen at the same time. - The curious European observes, with a pleasing admiration, that whilst some herbs of the field are fading, others of the same kind are springing up; and whilst some flowers are losing their beauty, others are blowing, to continue the enameled prospect. When the fruits have obtained their maturity, and the leaves begin to change their colour, fresh leaves, lasses, and fruits, are seen in their proper gradations on the same tree. Tue same incessant fertility is conspicuous in the corn, both reaping and sowing being carried on at the same time. ‘That corn which has been recently sown is coming up; that which bas been longer sown 1s in its blade, and the more advanced begins to blog- som. So that the declivities of the neighbouring hills exhibit all the beauties of the four seasons at one sin- gle view. Tuovcn allthis isgenerally seen, yet thereisa settled time for the grand harvest. But sometimes the most favourable season for sowing in one place, isa month or st Cu. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 283 or two after that of another, though their distance is not more than three or four leagues; and a6 time for another at the same distance not then arrived. Tus, in different spots, sometimes in one and same, SOW- ing and reaping are performed throughout the whole year, the forwardness or retardment naturally arising from the different Biepasians, as mountains, rising grounds, plains, valleys, and breaches; and the tem- perature being different in each of these, the times for performing the several operations of husbandry must also differ. Nor is this any contradiction to what I have before advanced, as will be seen in the following account of the jurisdiction. Turis remarkable fecun dity of the soil 1s naturally productive of excellent fruits and corn of every kind, as is evident from the delicacy of the beef, veal, mut- ton, pork, and poultry o of Quito. Here is also ‘wheat bread in sufficient plenty ; but the fault is, that the Indian women, whose business it is to make it, are ignorant of the best methods both of kneading and baking it; for the wheat of itself is excellent, and the bread baked in private houses equal to any in the known world. ‘he beef, which is not inferior to that of Europe, is sold in the markets by the quarter of the hundred for four rials of that country money, and the buyer has the liberty of choosing what part he pleases. Mutton is sold either by the half or quarter of a sheep ; ; and when fat, and in its prime, the whole carcase is worth about five or six rials. Other species of provisions are sold by the lump, without weight or measure, and the price regulated by custom. Tue only commodity of which there is here any scarcity is pulse; but this deficiency is supplied by roots, the principal of which are the camates, aruca- chas, yucas, ocas, and papas ; the three former are the natives of hot countries, and cultivated in the plan- tations of sugar canes, and such spotsare called yal» les, 284 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. les, or yungas, though these names have different senses, the former signifying plains in a bottom, and the latter those on the sides of the Cordillera; but both in a hotter exposure. In these are produced the plan- tains, guincos, guinea-pepper, chirimogas, aguaca- tes, granadillas, pinas, guayabas, and others natural to such climates, as 1 have already observed in other countries. The colder parts produce pears, peaches, nectarines, quaitambos, aurimelos, apricots, melons, . and water-melons; the last have a particular season, but the others abound equally throughout the whole year. The parts which cannot be denominated either hot or cold, produce frutillas, or Peru strawberries, and apples. The succulent fruits; which require a warm climate, arein greatplenty throughout the whole year, as China and Seville oranges, citrons, lemons, limes, cidras, and toronjas. T “hese trees are full of blossoms and fruit all the year round, equally with those which are natives of this climate. These fruits abundantly supply the tables of the inhabitants, where they are always the first served up, and the last taken away. Besides the beautiful contrast they form with the other dishes, they are also used for increasing the pleasure of the palate, it being a custom among the people of rank here, to eat them alternately with ‘their other food, of which there is always a great variety. Tue chirimoyas, aguacates, guabas, granadillas, and Peruvian strawberries, being. fruits of which, as well as of the ocos and papas, I have not yet given any description, I slra1l here give the reader a brief ac- count of them. The chirimoya is universally allowed to be the most delicious of any known fruit either of India or Europe. Its dimensions are various, being from one to five inches in diameter. Its figure is im- perfectly round, being flatted towards the stalk ; where it forms a kind of navel; but all the other parts nearly circular. It is covered with a thin soft shell, but adhering so closely to the pulp, as not to be separated Cx. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 285 separated without a knife. The outward coat, during its growth, is of a dark green, but on attaining its full maturity becomes somewhat lighter. This coat 18 variegated with prominent veins, ‘forming a kind of net-work all over it. The pulp is white, intermixed with several almost imperceptible fibres, concentring in the core, which extends from the hollow of the ex- crescence to the opposite side. As they have their origin near the former, so in that part they are larger and more distinct. The flesh contains a large quan- tity of juice resembling honey, and its taste sweet mixed with a gentle acid, but of a most exquisite flavour. The seeds are formed in several parts of the flesh, and are about seven lines in length, and three or four in breadth. They are also somewhat flat, and situated longitudinally. The tree is high and tufted, the stem large and round, but with some inequalities ; full of elliptic leaves, terminating in a point. The length is about three inches and a half, and the breadth two or two and a half. But what is very remarkable in this tree fs, that it every year sheds and renews its leaves, The blossom, in which is the embryo of the fruit, differs very little from the leaves in colour, which isa darkish green; but when arrived to its full maturity sofa yellowish green. It resembles a caper in figure, but something larger, and composed of four petals, It is far from being beautiful; but this deficiency is abundantly supplied by its incomparable fragrancy. This tree is observed to be very parsimonious in its blossoms, producing only such as would ripen into fruits, did not the extravagant passion of the ladies, for the excellence of the odour, induce them to pur- chase the blossoms at any rate. Tue aguacate, which in Lima and other parts of Peru is known by the antient Indian name plata, may also be classed among the choicest fruits of this country. lis figure in some measure resembles the ca- labashes 286 A VOYAGE TO Book V. labashes of which snuff-boxés are made; that is, the lower part is round, and tapers away gradually to- wards the stalk ; from whiétice to its base the length Is usually perween three and five inches. It is covered with avery thin, glossy, smooth sheil, which, when the fruit is thoroughly ripe, is detached from the pulp. The colour, both during its growth and when ar- rived at perfection, is green, but turns something paler.as it ripens ; the pulp is solid, but yields to the pressure of the finger; the colour white, tinged with green, and the taste so insipid as to require salt to give it an agreeable relish. It is fibrous, but some more so than others. The stone of this fruit is two inches long, one and a half in thickness, and terminates in a point. The taste is sour. It may be opened with a knife, and consists of two lobes, between which may be distinctly perceived the germ of the tree. Within the shell is a very thin tegument, which separates it from the pulp, though sometimes the tegument ad- heres to the pulp, ne at other times to the shell. The tree is lofty and full of branches; the leaf, both in dimension and figure, something different from that of the chirimoyo. In the province of Quito they give the name of guabas to a fruit, which, in all the other parts of Peru, is called by its Indian name pacaes. .Ir consists of a pod like that of the algarobo, a little flat on both sides. Its usual length is about a foot, though there are different sizes, some larger and some smaller, ac- cording to the country where they grow. Its out- ward colour is a dark green, and covered with a down, which feels smooth when stroked downwards, and rough when the hand is moved in the contrary direction, as in velvet. “The pod, opened longitu- dinally, is found divided into several cells, each con- taining a certain spongy medulla, very light, and equal to cotton in whiteness. In this are inclesed some black seeds of a very disproportionate size, the medulla, | whose ee Cu. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 287 whose juice is sweet and cooling, not being above a line and a half in thickness round each seed. Tue granadilla resembles a hen’s egg in shape, but larger. The outside of the shell is smooth and glossy, and of a faint carnation colour, and the inside white and soft. It is about a line and a half in thickness, and pretty hard. This shell contains a viscous and liquid substance, full of very small and delicate grains less hard than those of the pomegranate. This me- -dullary substance is separated from the shell, by an extreme fine and transparent membrane. This fruit is of adelightful sweetness, blended with acidity, very cordial and refreshing, and so wholesome that there is no danger in indulging the appetite. The two former _are also of the same innocent quality. The grana- dilla is not the produce of a tree, but of a plant, the blossom of which resembles the passion-fower *, and of a most delicate fragrance. But we must observe a remarkable singularity in the fruits of this country, namely, that they do not ripen on the trees, like those of Europe, but must be gathered and kept some time; for if suffered to hang on the trees they would decay. Tue last of the fruits I shall mention is the frutilla, or Peru strawberry, very different from that of Eu- rope in size; for though generally not above ar. inch in length, and two thirds of an inch in thickness, they are much larger in other parts of Peru. Their taste, though juicy and not unpalatable, is not equal to those of Europe. The whole difference between the plant and that known in Spain consists in its leaves being somewhat larger. Tue papas are natives of a cold climate; and te- -ing common in several parts of Europe, where they are known by the name of potatoes, ail I shall say of * This is the identical passion flower, which in England never bears any fruit, the climate being too cold, A. them 288 A VOYAGE TO BEN” them is, that they are a favourite food with the in- habitants of these countries, who eat them instead of bread, nor is there a made dish or ragout in which they are not an ingredient. The Creoles prefer them to any kind of meat, or even fowl. A particular dish is made of them, and served up at the best tables, called locro ; and is always the last, that water may be drunk after 1t, which they look upon as otherwise unwholesome. This root is the chief food of the lower class; and they find it so nutritive and strengthening, | that they are not desirous of more solid food. THE oca is a root about two. or three inches in length, and about half an inch, or something more, in thickness, though not every where equal, having a kind of knotswhere they twist and wreathe themselves. This root is covered with a very thin and transparent skin, whose colour is insome yellow, in some red, and others orange. It is eaten either boiled or roasted, and has nearly the same taste as a chesnut ; with this difference, however, common to all the fruits of America, that the sweetness predominates. It is both pickled and preserved, the latter being what - the Americans are very fond of. This root is also an ingredient in many made dishes. The plant is. small, like the camote, yucas, and others already described. Wirk regard to the corn of this country, there ‘is no necessity for enumerating the species, they being the same with those known in Spain. The maize and barley are used by the poor people, and particularly by the Indians, in making bread. They have several methods of prepari ing o the maize; one is by parching, which they call camea. They also make from this gtaina drink called chica, used by the Indians in the times of the Yncas, and still very common. ‘The. method of making it is this: they steep the maize in water till it begins to sprout, when they spread it in the sun, where ‘it is thoroughly dried; after which they" Y Ox. Vik SOUTH AMERICA. 289 they roast and grind it, and of the flour they make a decoction of what strength they please. It is then put into Jars or casks, with a proportional quantity of wa- _ ter. On the second or third day it begins to fer- ment, and whea that is completed, which is in two or three days more, they esteem it fit for drinking. It is reckoned very cooling; and that it is inebriating, is sufficiently evident from the Indians: those people have indeed so little government of themselves, that they never give over till they have emptied the cask. Its taste is not unlike cider; but seems in some mea- sure to require the dispatch of the Indians, turning sour in seven or eight days after the fermentation is completed. Besides its supposed quality of being cooling, it is, among other medical properties, con- fessedly diuretic; and to the use of this liquor the _ Indians are supposed to be indebted for their being strangers to the strangury or gravel. It is also not surprising that those people who drink it, without any other food than cancha, mote, and muchea, - are, with the help of this liquor, healthy, strong, and robust. Maize boiled till the grains begin to split, when it is called mote, serves for food to the Indians, the poor people, and servants in families, who being'ha- bituated to it, prefer it to bread. Maize, before it is ripe called chogllos, 1s sold in the ear, and among the poorer sort of inhabitants es- teemed a great dainty. Besipes the grains of the same species with those in Spain, this country has one peculiar to itself, and very.well deserving to be ranked among the most pala- table foods ; but still more valuable for its being one of the preservatives against all kinds of abscesses and imposthumes. This useful species of grain, here called quinoa, resembles a lentil in shape, but much less, and very white. When boiled it opens, and out : comes a spiral fibre, which appears like a small ~ VOL. I. . U ? worm, 290 A VOYAGE TO Boox V. worm, but whiter than the husk of the grain. It is an annual plant, being sowed and reaped every year. The stem is about three or four feet in height, and has-a large pointed leaf, something like that of the malloro; the flower is-of a deep red, and five or six inches in length, and in it are contained the grains or seed. The quinoa is eaten boiled like rice, and has a very pleasant taste; and the water in which it has been boiled, is often used as an apozem. ‘The quinoa is used in external applications, in order to which it is ground and boiled to a proper consistence ; and applied to the part affected, from which it soon extracts all corrupt humours occasioned by a con- tusion. Besipes domestic animals, here are great numbers of rabbits caught on the deserts. The partridges are not very plenty, and rather resemble a quail than those of Europe. Turtle-doves abound here, greatly owing to the indolence of the inhabitants in not endeavouring to take them. But one of the principal foods used by the inhabi- tants is. cheese, of which it is computed that the quan- tity annually confumed amounts to between 70 and 80 thousand dollars of that country money. It is used in various manners, and is the chief ingredient in many dishes. The neighbourhood of Quito also affords ex- cellent butter, and of which there is a great consump- tion, but falls far short of that of cheese. Tue fondness of these people for sweetmeats ex- ceeds every thing 1 have ever mentioned of other countries; and this necessarily occasions a great con- sumption of sugar and honey. One method of i in- dulging this appetite is, to squeeze the j Juice out of the sugar canes, let it settle, and curdle it, out O which they make small cakes, which they call raspas duras. This is so highly valuéd by the lower class, that with a slice of it, and another of bread and ack | they make as hearty a meal as the rich with all t 4 varl a Cx. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 291 variety of dishes. Thus it appears, that if there be some difference between the foods used here and those of Spain, the difference in their preparing them is still greater. CENA P. Vil Of the Commerce of the Province of Quito. ROM the two preceding chapters, a sufficient judgment may be formed of the products and manufactures in the province of Quito, which are the sources of its commerce. ‘The persons who are the chief conductors of this commerce, are the Europeans or Chapitones ; some settled here, and others coming occasionally. The latter purchase the country goods, and sell those of Europe. The manufactures of this province, as we have already noticed, are only cottons, some white called tucuyos, and others striped bays and cloths, which meet with a good market at Lima for supplying all the inward provinces of Peru. The returns are made partly in silver, partly in gold and silver thread fringes made in that city; wine, brandy, oil, copper, tin, lead, and quicksilver. The masters of the manufactures either sell their goods to the tra- ders, or employ them as their factors. On the arrival of the galleons at Carthagena, the traders resort thither either by the way of Popayan or that of Santa Fé, to purchase European goods, which, at their return, they consign to their correspondents all over the province.. h The products of the earth are chiefly consumed within the province, except the wheat produced in the ‘jurisdiction of Riobamba and Chimbo, part of which are sent to Guayaquil. But this is a trade carried on only by Mestizos and poor people. It would indeed gadmit of great improvements, were not the freights so | Y 3 excessively AAA 292 A VOYAGE TO: - Boox V. excessively high, that the trouble and expense of cars rying them from Guayaquil to other countries, where: there is a scarcity of them, renders it i aii “ges a living profit. Goobs, manufactured by the public, or wove by private Indians, are, together with some kindsof pro- visions, sent to the jurisdiction of Barbacoas ; and this is the. commerce in which the chapitones make the first essay of their abilities for trade. These provi- sions are exchanged for gold, found in that country, and which is afterwards sent to Lima, where it bears a greater price. Their stuffs also find a vent in the governments of Popayan and Santa Fé; and this commerce is perpetually carried on; but the only return in the tiempo muerto, or absence of the gal- leons, is gold, which, like that from Barbacoas, 1s sent to Lima, Tue coast of New Spain supplies this province with indigo, of which there is a very large cons PHAR at the manufactories, blue being universally the colour which this people ‘affect i in their apparel. They also import, by way of Guayaquil, iron and steel, both from Europe and the coast of Guatemala; and though it fetches so high a price, that a quintal of iron sells for above a hundred dollars, and the same quantity of steel for a hundred and fifty, there is a continual de- mand in order to supply the peasants with the neces- sary instruments of agriculture, Tue inland, or reciprocal commerce, consists in the consumption of the products of one jurisdiction in another ; and is a constant incentive to industry among the inhabitants of the villages, and the lower class, Those of the province of Chimbo purchase home- made tucuyos and bagsin those of Riobamba and Qui. to, in order to vend them at Guayaquil, bringing thence, in return, salt, fish, and cotton; the ¡Eres of which, being wove in the looms of Quito, is again sent to Ghayaquil i instuffs. The jurisdictionsof Riobamba Alausí” ‘Cu. VI. . SOUTH AMERICA. 293 Alausi and Cuenca, by means of the warehouses at Yaguache and Noranjal, carry ona considerable trade with Guayaquil. Tuts trade in the manufactures of that country, which consist only of three sorts, cloth, bags, and linen, is attended with considerable profit to the tra- ders, and advantage to the country, as all the poor people, who are remarkably numerous, and persons of substance, except tiiose of the capital, wear the goods manufactured in the country; those of Europe being so prodigiously dear, that only Spaniards of large for- tune, and persons of the highest distinction, can afford to purchase them. The quantity of cloth and stuffs wove in this country, and all by Indians, either in the public manufactures or their own houses, appearsfrom hence to be prodigiously great: and to this, in a great ‘measure, is owing the happy state of this province ; the masters and traders soon raising fortunes, and the servants and dependants contented with the fruits of their industry. U BOOK ¡es 204 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. BOOK VI. Description of the Province of Quito. CHAP. I. Extent of the Province of Quito, and the Jurisdiction of its Audience. FF the five preceding books we have endeavoured, as far as the nature of the subject would permit, to follow the order which the series of our voyage re- quired ; and we flatter ourselves it will appear, that, though our principal attention was directed to the astronomical observations, we have not omitted any interesting particular, relating to the towns and pro- vinces through which we passed. We were always persuaded, that ifthe former tended to the improve- ment of science, and was agreeable to those who pro- fess it; the latter might prove useful to historians, and be acceptable to those who apply themselves to the study of the constitution, state, customs, and ge- nius of nations. We closed the fifth book with an account of the city of Quito; this we shall employ in treating of the province, which is equally an object of curiosity; and weare. enabled to gratify the reader in the most satisfactory manner, having, in the course of our observations, not only surveyed its whole extent, but, by our long stay, obtained the acquaintance of many persons of undoubted judgment and veracity, on whom we could rely for particulars not to be nar known 4 Ch. L SOUTH AMERICA. 295 known from ocular inspection. So that we have suf ficient reason for warranting the truth of the contents of this history. Tue large province of Quito, at the time when the Spaniards first settled in it, was annexed to the king- dom of Peru, and continued so till the year 1718, when a new viceroyalty being erected at Santa Fé de Bogota, the capital of the new kingdom of Granada, it was dismembered from Peru, and annexed to Gra- nada. At the same time the audience of Quito was suppressed, together with that of Panama, in the king- dom of Terra Firma; though the latter continued de- pendent on the viceroys of Lima. The intention in this frugal scheme was, that the salaries of the great number of officers in both, which ceased on this aboli- tion, should be applied to the support of the new vice- royalty, in order to prevent any additional burden on the royal revenue; a consequence otherwise unavoida- ble. But experience has shown the impropriety and insufficiency of this measure ; and that the tribunals abolished were of indispensable necessity in their re- spective cities ; an insupportable detriment resulting to the inhabitants from the vast distance of the au- diences assigned them; which were, Lima for the kingdom of Terra Firma, and those of the province of Quito were to apply for justice to the audience of Santa Fé. And as the amount of all the salaries suppressed, besides the prejudicing many families, was ‘not sufficient to support the dignity of a viceroy, new ideas succeeded ; and rather than keep it up at the expense of the royal revenue, the viceroyaity was suppressed, and things placed again on their antient footing in the year 1722: the officers were restored to their former posts which they had so worthily filled, and the audiences have continued the same as before. But the motives for erecting a new viceroyalty at Santa Fé, being confessedly of the greatest importance, its restitution was again brought oa the carpet ; and Ud the 296 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI: the great difficulty of supporting it, without detri- ment either to the public or the audiences, the-sup- pression of which had been so detrimental! to the in- habitants, being overcome, the dignity of viceroyalty was again erected ih the year 1739, Don Sebastian de Eslaba, lieutenant- ae ee ti being appointed the first viceroy, and arrived in the beginning of the year 1740 to take possession of his government; which included the whole kingdom of Terra Firma and the province of Quito, Tus province is bounded on the north by that of Santa Fé de Bogota, and includes part of the govern- ment of Papayan; on the south tt is limited by the governments of Peru and Chachapoyas ; eastward it extends over the whole government of Maynas, and the river of the Amazons, ‘to the meridian of demar- cation, or that which divides the dominions of Spain and Portugal. Its western boundary is the sea, from the coast of Machala, in the gulf of Puna, to the coast of the government of Atacames and the jurisdiction of Barbacoas, in the bay of Gorgona. Its greatest breadth ftom north to south is nee 200 leagues; and its length, from east to west, the whole extent from Cape de Santa Elena, in the south-sea, to the meridian above mentioned ; which, by the most accu- rate computation, is 600 leagues. But a very great part ofthese vast dominions are, it must be owned, ' either inhabited by nations of savage Indians, or have not hitherto been thoroughly peopled by theSpaniards, if indeed they have been sufficiently known. All the parts that can properly be said to be peopied, and actually subject to the Spanish government, are those intercepted by the two Cordilleras of the Andes, which, in comparison to the extent of the country, may be termed a street or lane, extending from the jurisdiction of the town of St. Miguel de Ibarra tó that of Loga ; the country from hénce to the government of Popayan, and also that del Jr si between the western Cora dillera E Ca." SOUTH ‘AMERICA. 297 dillera and the sea. With this limitation the extent Of the jurisdictions from east to. West ¥ will be fifteen leagues or something more, being the distancé inter- cepted between the two Cordilieras, But to this must be added the countries comprehended in the govern» meats of Jaen de Bracamoros, which borders on the jurisdiction of Loja, and the extremity of the whole province, and situated on the east side of the eastera Cordillera ; and, to the northward, the government of Quixos, and that of Maynas to the eastward of it; but separated by large tracts of land inhabited by wild Indians ; and on the north side of the province from that of Papayan ; though the latter is properly a di- stinct province from that of Quito. Thus on the west side of that interval between the two Cordilleras, lies the lately erected government of Atacames, and the jurisdiction of Guayaquil : on the east side, the three governments above mentioned; and on the north, that of Papayan. Tus province, exclusive of these five governments, consists of nine jurisdictions, which in that country are called provinces, that of Quito being subdivided into as many others as there are governments and ju- risdictions; which it is necessary for the reader to ob- serve, in order to avoid any perplexity or mistake, when a jurisdiction happens to be called a province ; though I shaJl be careful to avoid it as much as possi- ble. The jurisdictions in the province of Quito, be- ginning with the most northern, are the following : J. The town of San Miguel de Ibarra. ‘Il. The village of Otabala. Hil. The city of Quito. IV. The assiento of Latacunga. V. The town of Riobamba. y VI. The assiento of Chimbo, or Guaranda. VIL The city of Guayaquil, : ¡ XXII. The © 298 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. VIII. The city of Cuenca, IX. The city of Loja. Or these nine jurisdictions I shall give a suceinct ac- count in this and the following chapter, and then pro- ceed to the governments. I. Tue town of San Miguel de Ibarra, is the _Capi-~ tal of the jurisdiction of that name, which also gon- tains eight principal villages or parishes, the names of which are, T. Mira. V. Salinas. If. Pimanpiro. VI. Tumbabiro. JM. Carangue. VII. Quilca. IV. San Antonio de Carangue. VIII. Caguasqui. Turs jurisdiction formerly included that of Otaba- lo; but, on account of its too enormous extent, it was prudently divided into two. THE town of San Miguel de Ibarra stands on the extremity of a very large plain or meadow, at a small distance from a chain of mountains to the eastward of it, and betwixt two rivers, which keep this whole plain in a’ perpetual verdure. The soil is soft and moist, which not only renders the houses damp, but also ' causes the foundations of their buildings often to sink. It is moderately large, with straight broad streets, and the greatest part of the houses of stone, or unburnt bricks, and all tiled. The town is sur- rounded by suburbs inhabited by the Indians, whose cottages makethe same appearance as in all other mean places; but the houses are neat and uniform, though they are but low, having only a ground floor, except those in the square, which have one'story. ‘The parish church: is a large and elegant structure, and of the same materials as the houses. It is also well orna- mented. This towm has convents of Franciscans, Do- minicans, the Fathers of Mercy, a college of Jesuits _ and a Cw. L SOUTH AMERICA. 299 and a nunnery of the order of the Conception. Its in- habitants of all ages, sects, and classes, are computed at ten or twelve thousand souls. W ¡THIN the limits of this jurisdiction, is the lake * of Yagarchoca, famous for being the sepulchre of the inhabitants of Otabalo, on its being taken by Huayna- Capac, the twelfth Ynca, who, instead of showing clemency to their magnanimity, being iritated at the noble resistance they made, ordered them all to be be- headed, both those who had quietly surrendered, and __ those taken in arms, and their bodies thrown into the Jake ; and from the water of the lake being tinged of a bloody hue, it acquired its present name, which sig- nifies a lake of blood. The air is very mild, less cold than that of Quito, and at the same time the heat is not at all inconveni- ent. The temperature of the air is different in all the villages of this jurisdiction, but in most warm, on ac- count of their low situation. These parts are ull over this country called Valles, as I have already observed; and the names of those in the jurisdiction of San Mi- guel de Ibarra are Chotar Carpuela, and several others. Most of the farms in them have plantations of sugar canes, and mills for extracting the juice, from whence they make great quantities of sugar, and very white: some are planted with the fruits common in a hot cli- mate ; and in others cotton only is cultivated, and to the greatest perfection. THE sugar canes do not ripen here so late as in Qui- to; but they may be committed at any time to the mill, there being no necessity for cutting them at any precise time, retaining all their goodness even when suffered to stand two or three months after they are ripe; so that they are cut every quarter, and the mills, by that means, kept at work the whole year. Tax farms situated in a less hot part are employed for cultivating maize, wheat, and barley, in the same manner as in the jurisdiction of Otabalo, and which | we 4 300 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. we sball explain in its proper place. Here are also” large numbers of goats, but not many sheep; and though the manufactures here are not so numerous as in Otabalo,- yet the Indians weave a considerable guantity of cloth and cotton. Ix the neighbourhood of the village of Salinas are saltzmines, which, besides the home consumption, supply the countries to the northward of it. ‘This salt has some mixture of nitre ; and though it may thence be concluded to be less wholesome, yet it is attended with no ill consequence to those who are accustomed to it; but not answering the intention in salting, that from Guayaquil is used instead of it. | Wiruin the district of the village of Mira, are great numbers of wild asses, which increase very fast, and are not easily caught. The owners of the grounds _ where they are bred, sutfer all persons to take as ma- ny as they can, on paying asmall acknowledgment in proportion to the number of days their sport has last- ed. The manner of catching them is as follows: a number of persons go on horseback, and are attend- ed by Indians on foot. When arrived at the proper places, they form a circle, in order to drive then) into some valley ; where, at full speed, they throw the noose, and halter them : for these creatures, on find- ing themselves inclosed, make very furious efforts to escape, and if only one forces his way through, they all follow with an irresistible impetuosity. But when the hunters have noosed them, they throw themdown, and secure them with fetters, and thus leave them till the hunting is over; when, in order to bring them away with the greater facility, they pair them with tame beasts; but this is not easily performed, for these asses are so remarkably fierce, that they often. hurt the persons who undertake to manage them. They have all the swiftness of horses, and neither ac- clivities nor precipices retard them in their career ; when attacked, they defend themselves with theirheels | and | Ca.L SOUTH AMERICA. 305 and mouth, with:such activity, that without slacken- . ing their pace, they often maim their pursuers: but the most remarkable property in these creatures is, that afier carrying the first load, their celerity leaves them, their dangerous ferocity is Jost, and they soon contract the stupid look and dullness peculiar to the asinine species. - It is also observable, that these crea- tures will not permit a horse to live among them; and if one of them happens to stray into the places where they feed, they all fall upon him, and, without giving him the ‘liberty of flying from them, they bite and kick him till they leave him dead on the spot. They are very troublesome neighbours, making a most hor- rid noise; for whenever one ar two of f them begin te bray, they are answered in the same vociferous mans - ner by/all within the reach of the sound, which is - greatly increased and prolonged by the repercussions - of the valleys and breaches of the mountains. IL. Tag jurisdiction joining on the south to that of St. Miguel. de Ibarra, is called Otabalo ;, in the jurisdiction of which are the following eight princi- pal villages or parishes: n eS Cayambe... V. Cotacache. 11. Tabacundo. VI. San Pablo. III. Otabalo. VII. Tocache. IV. Atontaqui. VIII. Urquuqui. THE parish of Otabalo is well siuated, and so large and populous, that it is said to contain eighteen or twenty thousand souls, and among them a consider- able number of Spaniards. But the inhabitants of all the other villages are universally Indians, Tue lands of this jurisdiction are laid out in plan- tations like those of the former, except that here are not such great numbers of sugar mills; but this_is compensated by its great superiority in manufactures,» a consequence resulting from the multitude of Indians residing 302 A VOYAGE TO Boox VE. residing in its villages, who seem to have an innate inclination to weaving; for besides the stuffs made at the common manufactories, such Indians as are not Mitayos, or who are independent, make, on their own account, a variety of goods, as cottons, carpets, pavilions for beds, quilts in damask work, wholly of cotton, either white, blue, or variegated with «dife ferent colours ; but all in great repute, both in the province of Quito and other parts, where they are sold to great advantage. Tuer method of sowing wheat and barley in this jurisdiction, is very different from that used in any of the former; for, instead of scattering the seeds, as is commonly practised, they divide the ground, after it is plowed, into several parts by furrows, and along the sides of them they make little holes a foot distant from one another, putting five or six corns into each. However tedious this may be, it is abundantly made up to the farmer by the uncom- mon increase, which is usually above a hundred fold. Tuis jurisdiction ‘has a great number of studs of horses, and multitudes of “black cattle, from whose milk large quantities of cheese are made. This coun- try is happily situated for pasture, being every where watered with an infinite number of rivulets. It has also large flocks of sheep, though these seem to be neglected, in comparison of the others, THe village of Cayambe stands in the middle of a spacious plain, at the end of which is the foot of the mountain Cayamburo, one of the largest mountains of the Cordilleras in this part of the country, being equal in height to that of Chimborazo, and its summits co- vered with snow and ice, Its altitude ig so much greater than the rest between it and Quito, that it may be plainly seen from that city. “The vicinity of this mountain renders the whole plain of Cayambe cold, which is increased by the violence and contihu- . ance CRA: SOUTH AMERICA. 303 ance of the winds. In the territories of this jurisdic- tion are two lakes, one called San Pablo, from a vil- lage of that name on itsbanks; it is a league in length, and about half a Jeague in breadth. This lake is every where surrounded with a species of rushes called there totoral, among which are vast flocks of wild geese and gallaretes. This lake receives its water from the mountain of Mojanda; and from it issues one of the branches of the Rio Blanco. ‘The other lake, which has nearly the same dimensions as the former, is called Cuichocha, and is situated in a plain on the side of a mountain of the same name. Near the mid- dle of this are two islands, both which abound with wild cuyes, a species of rabbits, and deer, which often swim to main land; but, when pursued by the hunters, disappoint them by gaining the lake, and swimming back to their retreat. Several small fish are found in this lake, resembling the cray-fish, but without a shell. They are called, by the inhabitants ofthe adjacent country, prennadillas, and are sentin the pickle toQuito, where they are the more esteemed, as being the only fresh water fish that can be bought in that city. Nor are these caught in any great quantities, though they are also found in the lake of San Pablo. III. Tae jurisdiction of Quito consists of the fol. lowing twenty-five parishes, besides those in the city: L St. Juan Evangelista, XII. Ruembo, and II. Santa Maria Magdalena. "Piso: II. Chilogalie. XIII. Yaruqui. IV. Cono-coto. XIV. El Quinche. -V. Zambiza. XV. Guayllabamba. VI. Pintac. XVI. Machacha. VII. Sangolqui. XVII. Aloasio. VU. Amaguana. XVIII. Aloa. IX. Guapulo. XIX. Yumbicho. X. Cumbaya. XX. Alangasi. XI, Co-collao, XXI. Pomasque. - 7 XXIT. San 304 A VOYAGE TO. Boox VI, XXII. San Antonio de Lue XXIV. Cola-cali, lum- bamba LA V Tumbaco, WXIIE- Perucho. Alar Tus jurisdiction, though called Cinco Leguas, five leagues, extends, in some parts, a great deal further, and the lands are as it were covered with plantations, some situated in the plains, some in the capacious breaches, and others on the summit of the mountains; and all producing according to the quality, situation, and exposure of the ground. Those on the temperate plains yield plentiful harvests of maize ; those at the bottoms of deep breaches, being in a hot tempera- ture, are planted with sugar canes, from whence they extract great quantities of sugar and rum. _ From the fruits peculiar to such a temperature, are made a variety of sweetmeats, here called rayados; and of which there is a great consumption among | the inha- bitants. - THE sugar cane PPADS very slowly in this jurisdic- tion ; for though the plantations enjoy a hot air, yet it is not of that degree of beat requisite to its speedy maturity ; so tbat itis three years after they are plant- ed, before they are fit to becut. Nor are they ever cut but once, the second crop only producing the soca or germ, which serves for replanting. THE guarapo, which we have‘had occasion to men» tion, is Huthing more than the juice of the cane, as it flows from'the mill, and ‘afterwards suffered to fer- ment. Itis very pleasant, its taste being a ‘Sweetish acidity, and, at the same time, very wholesome; but inebriating if drunk to excess. ‘This liquor is a fa- vourite regale among the vulgar. Tue plantations near the summits ofthe mountains, from their having a va ee of temperatures, produce wheat, Bue. pot- -herbs ofall kinds, and potatoes. Anova these plat ntations are fed numerous flocks of sheep, producing that wool, which, from the several operations - “¿Ch LL" | SOUTH AMERICA. 305 operations it undergoes, affords employment for such multitudes of people. Some farmers make it their sole business to breed cows, principally for the ad- vantages they derive from their milk in making cheese and butter. In other farm-houses you see va- rious occupations carried on at the same time, name- ly, the breeding of cattle, agriculture, and manufac- tures, particularly of cloth, bays, and serges. From what has been said, it is evident that nei- ther this, nor the preceding jurisdiction, has any ge- neral temperature, the degree of cold and_ heat de- pending on the situation ; and that to this difference is owing the delightful, and even profitable variety of all kinds of fruits and grains, each finding here a temperature agreeable to its nature. Accordingly, in travelling only half a day, you pass from a climate where the heat sufficiently indicates that you are in the torrid-zone, to another where you feel all the hor. rors of winter. And what is still more singular, and may be esteemed an advantage, no change occurs during the whole year; the tetnperate parts never feeling the vicissitudes of cold and heat. This, how- ever, must be allowed not to hold precisely with re- gard to the mountainous parts, the coldness of which is increased by the violence of the winds, or a change of weather, called tiempo de paramos, when the clouds involve the greatest part of these mountains, and pre- cipitate themselves in a sleet ; at which time the cold becomes intolerable: and, on the other hand, when those frigorific clouds are dispersed, and the wind al- Jayed, so that the rays of the sun reach the earth, they feel the comfortable heat of his cheering beams. Most of these villages are built with very little re- - gularity. The principal part of them is the church and parsonage, which they call the convent, from the priests being all forinerly religious, These structures - have some appearance of decency : but the other parts of the village consist of a number of huts with mud- voz: 1. Xx walls, 306 A VOYAGE TO Book Vi. walls, scattered all over the country, where every one - has his spot of ground; which he tills for his subsist- ence. A great part, and in some villages the whole; of the inhabitants are Indians, who live there when. out of place: though in some parts the inhabitants are Mestizos, and here and there a Spanish family ; but these are extremely poor. | IV. Tue first jurisdiction to the southward of that of Quito, is the Assiento Latacunga. The word As- siento implies a place less than a town, but larger than a village. This place stands in a wide plain, having on the east side the eastern Cordillera of the Andes, from whence projects a very high mountain, and ata small distance from its foot is situated Latacunga, in 55 min. 14 sec. 30 thirds, south latitude. On the west side of it is a river, which, though sometimes fordable, on any increase of the waters must be pass- * ed overthe bridge. This assiento is large and regu- lar ; the streets broad and straight; the houses of stone, arched, and well contrived: but, on account of the dangerous consequences so often resulting from earthquakes, without any story. ‘This precau- tion the inhabitants were taught by a dreadful de- struction of all the buildings, on the 20th of June 1698. This terrible concussion was general all over * the province of Quito; and its effects, as we shall show in the sequel, in many other places, equally melancholy. Out of six hundred stone houses, the number of which this assiento then consisted, only a part of one, and the church of the Jesuits, were left standing ; and even these wereso greatly damaged, that there was a necessity for pulling them down. But the greatest misfortune was, that most of the inhabitants were buried under their ruins, the earth- quake beginning at one in the morning, a time of general silence and security, and continuing its con- cussions, at short intervals, the greatest part of th day. | E 5 - 1 THE “Cu. L. ». SOUTH AMERICA. 307 Tue stone of which the houses and churches are built, isa kind of Pumice, or spongy stone, ejected from volcanoes, inexhaustible quarries of it being found in the neighbourhood. It is so light that it will swim in water, and from its great porosity the lime cements the different pieces very strongly toge- ther ; whence, and from their lowness, the houses are now enabled to support themselves during a con- cussion much better than before the earthquake, when few were without a story ; and if they should be unfortunately thrown down, the crush in all pro- bability would be much less fatal. } Tue jurisdiction contains these principal villages" : I. Zichios Mayor. X. San Miguel de Mol- II. Zichios Menor. leambato. III. Yungas, or Colorados. XT. Saquisili. IV. Ysilimbi. XII. Pugili. Y. féuisa Halo or “Toa XII. Tanicuchi: ep CBSO. XIV. Cuzubamba. SUL Pillar. - XV. Tisaleo. VII. San Phelipe. XVI. Angamarca. VII. Mula- Halo. XVII. Pila-Halo. IX. Alaquez. Tue air of this assiento is the colder, from the place being only six leagues from the mountain of Coto- paxi, which, as it is not less in height and extent _than those of Chimborazo and Cayamburo, so it is, like them, covered with ice and snow. The com- bustible substances within the bowels of this moun- tain first declared themselves in the year 1533, when Sebastian and Belalcazar, who undertook the conquest of this province, had entered it, and prov- ed very favourable to the enterprise. For the In- - dians, possessed with the truth of a ee of their priests, that, on the bursting of this volcano, they would be deprived of their country, and reduced un- der the government of an unknown prince, were so xX 2 struck 308 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. struck with the concurrence of the bursting of this volcano, and the invasion of a foreign army, that the spirit, which universally began to show itself in the preparatives every where made for a vigorous resis- tance, entirely left them, and the whole province ea- sily conquered, all its caciques submitting to the | king of Spain. The large plain in which this assien- to stands, is full of fragments of rocks, ejected at that supposed ominous eruption, and some of them to the distance of five leagues from its roots. In the year 1743, While we were on the coast of Chili, a se- cond eruption happened, the particulars of which we shall relate in another place. Tue temperature of the air is very different in the several villages of this jurisdiction ; being hot in those lying in the valleys ; temperate in those situated on the plains; whilst the air in those bordering on the mountains, like that of the assiento, is cold, and sometimes to an excessive degree. The villages are in general larger, and more populous, than those of the other jurisdictions in the same province, Their inha- bitants are Indians, Mestizos, and a few Spaniards, ~ BesipEs the parish church, which is served by two priests, one for the Spaniards and the other for the In- dians, this assiento has convents of Franciscans, Au- gustines, Dominicans, the Fathers of Mercy, anda college of Jesuits. The churches of these religious” are well built, decently ornamented, and kept very neat. The inhabitants, by the nearest computation, amount to between ten and twelve thousand, chiefly Spaniards and Mestizes. Among theformer are several families of eminent rank and easy circumstances, and of such virtues and accomplishments as add a lustre to their happy situation. The Indians, as at Quito, live in a separate quarter adjoining to the country. In this assiento all kinds of trades and mechanicarts are carried on ; and,as in all the other parts of thisju- risdiction, it has a considerable nurnber of manufacto-' ries \ Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 309 ries of cloth, bays, and tucuyos. Great quantities of pork are salted here for exportation to Quito, Guaya- ~ quil, and Riobamba, being highly esteemed for the pe- culiar flavour given to it in the pickling, and which it ever after retains. - Art the neighbouring country is sowed withclover, and interspersed with plantations of willows, whose perpetual verdure gives a cheerful aspect to the coun- try, and heightens the pleasantness of the assiento. Tue Indians of Pugili and Saquisili are noted for making earthen ware, as jars, pans, pitchers, &c. which are greatly valued all. over the province of Quito. Theclay of which they are made is ofa lively red, very fine, and emits a kind of fragrancy, and the workmanship very neat and ingenious. V. THE next jurisdiction southwards is Riobamba, the capital of which is the town of the same name. Its jurisdiction is divided into two departments ; the corregidor, who resides at Riobamba, appointing a de- puty, who lives at the assiento of Hambato, situated between the capital and Latacunga. In the first de- partment are the following principal villages : I. Calpi. X. Pungala, II. Lican. XI. Lito. TI. Yaruquiz. XII. Guano, 1V. San Luis. XIII. Hilapo. V. Cajabamba. XIV. Guanando. VI. San Andres. XV. Penipe. VIL. Puni. XVI. Cubijies. VIII. Chambo. XVII. Cevadas. IX. Quimia. XVII. Palactanga. Tue department of the assiento of Hamberto has, im its jurisdiction, six principal villages : I. Isambo. V. Patate. II. Quisupincha, VI. Santo Rosa de Pila- Ill. Quero. guin. IV, Pelileo. X's THIS sv *e 310 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. Tis assiento stands in the latitude of 1° 41’ 40” south, and 22' west, ofthe city ofQuito. In 1533 it _ was an Indian town, of which Sebastian de Belalcazar having made himself master, the following year mar- shal Diego de Almagro laid the foundation of the pre- sent assiento, It standsin avery large plain surrounded by mountains; particularly on the north side, which is bounded by Chimborazo, from thé foot of which it is at no great distance. On the south side is a lake, called Colta, about a league in length and three quar- ters of a league in breadth, where thereare great numbers of wild geese and gallaretas ; and its banks covered with plantations. Tue principal square and streets are very regular, straight, and airy; the houses of alight stone, butsome- thing heavier than the pumice made use of at La- tacunga. Some, especially those in and near the square, have a story; but the others are universally without any, being built low,on account of the earth- quakes, which this place has ‘often felt, particularly that already mentioned of 1698, when many of its houses and public buildings were thrown down. The Indians who inhabited this place, and all those to the southward in this jurisdiction, before their conversion to Christianity, were known by the name of Puruayes; and are to this day distinguished from all the other: Indians in the whole province. BesiDes the great church, here is another called. St. Sebastian, with convents of the same orders as at. Latacunga, and a nunnery of the Conception ; con» tributions are still raised for the use of the hospital, though it isin so ruinous a condition as not to admit of patients. On the west side of the assiento is a river cut into small channels or trenches, for watering the adjacent fields; by which means they are rendered so remark- ably fertile, that they produce clover-the whole year, : Tue a ae Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA, 311 The inhabitants, according to an accurate calcula- tion, amount to between sixteen and twenty thousand souls. “The manners and customs here are nearly the same with those at Quito; the greatest part of the families of distinction in that city owing their origin to this place. For at the beginning of the conquests, many of the eminent families which came from Spain settled here at the conclusion of the war, and have been yery careful not to diminish either the lustre of their families, or their wealth, by promiscuous alli- ances, marrying only into one another. THE magistracy consists of regidores, who are al- ways persons of the first distinction, and from among those are annually chosen the ordinary alcaldes; with this singularity, that the validity of the election de- pends on its being unanimous, a single vote rendering it void. Besides, the person thus elected is either con- firmed or rejected by the townsmen; a privilege known in no other part of the whole province. THE air is colder here than at Quito, owing in a great measure to the neighbourhood of the mountain of Chimborazo ; and, when the wind blows from that quarter, the weather is so sharp, that the rich families leave the town, and retire to their estates, situated in a warmer air, though at no great distance. ‘This un- comfortable season generally lasts from December to June, the north and north-west winds then princi- pally prevailing. It is, however, in a great measure, tree from those violent showers and tempests so com- mon at Quito, that sometimes for many days suc- cessively it enjoys serene and delightful weather ; and the same may be said'of the greatest part of its jurisdiction. Here are many plantations, or farms, and most of them considerable; and for the number and largeness of its manufactories, it surpasses every other part of this province; though the Indians seem born with an inclination for weaving, particularly those of the vil- X 4 lage 312 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. lage of Guano, who are famed for their manufactures of worsted stockings, and it is indeed the only placein the whole province where they are made. This in- dustrious disposition probably gave rise to the large flocks of sheep in this jurisdiction, whence these ma- nufactories are never in want of wool. The soil is very fertile, producing all kinds of grain and pulse in abundance. Andhere is most frequently seen what Lhave elsewhere observed: thatein one part the husbandmen are sowing, in another, reaping; the landscape also elegantly adorned with such an en- chanting variety of colours as. painting cannot ex- press. [n this jurisdiction is a large plain lying south of the town of Tiocaxas, and famous for a battle be- tween the Spaniards commanded by Belgica se and the puruayes Indians, before their courage had bcen depressed by the ominous explosion ofthe mountain, Both armies fought with great obstinacy, though nei=. ther gained the victory. Tue assiento of Hambato stands in a wide plain at the bottom of a mountain. On the N.'side of it runs a large river, over which a bridge has been built, it being never fordable on account of its depth and extreme rapidity. itis finely situated, and in extent and populousness nearly equal to Latacunga, thenum- ber of its inhabitants amounting to eight or uine thousand. The houses are of unburnt bricks, well contrived, and make a good appearance. With re- gard to their lowness, it is owing to a discreet pre- caution against the melancholy shocks of earthquakes. it has a parish-church, two chapels of ease, and a convent of Franciscans. The earthquake which made such terrible havock in the assiento of Latacunga, proved also fatal to this. The earth near it opened in several places, of which there still remains an as- tonishishing nonument on the $. side of the assiento, being a chasin four or, five feet broad, and about a league Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. . 313 league in length, north and south. And on the N, side of the river are several openings of the same kind, The horror of the shock was greatly increased by terrible eruptions from Mount Cargtairaso, from whence a muddy torrent, formed of ashes, cinders, and snow melted by the flames from the aperture, _ precipitated down the sides of the mountain, over- / flowing the fields, sweeping away the cattle, and every other object, by its violence. A track of this im- petuous current is still to be seen on the 5. side of the assiento. The inhabitants in their manners and customs re- semble those of Quito; but with regard to families of distinction, it is much inferior to Riobamba. Courage is an innate quality of the natives, but blended with such vices, that both their neighbours, and the inha- bitants of the other parts of the province, will have no concerns with them, except those absolutely ne- cessary; and, in all dealings with them, take care to guard equally against their deceit and violence. This jurisdiction in several of its products and ma- nufactures excels all the rest : one of which is bread, particularly that made at the assiento, which is famous all over the province; and accordingly it is sent to Quito, and other parts, without losing any thing of its goodness by length of time. The Indian iuhabi- tants of the village of Quero make all sorts of ca- binet work, for which there is a great demand all over the province, as, besides the goodness of the workmane ship, this is the only place where goods of this kind aremade. ‘The jurisdiction of Patate is equally fa- mous for the plenty of sugar canes, and the good- ness of the sugar made from them, being ef the finest sort. That of Santa Rosa de Pilaguin, which, with its fields, lies on the side of Carguairaso, is famous for the particular goodness of its barley, as the district bordering on the assiento is for the exquisiteness of its fruits; and to this district Quito owes most of the Eu- ropean | Fra. Ay VOYAGE TO Boox VI ropean kinds sold in that city, the temperature of the air being peculiarly adapted to the perfection of those friuts. ¡ VI. On the 'W. side of the jurisdiction of Riobam- ba, between“it and Guayaquil, lies that of Chimbo, whose jurisdiction consists of an assiento and seven villages: the former, being the capital, is called Chimbo, and was the residence of the corregidor, till it was thought proper, for the conveniency of com- merce, to remove it to Guaranda. This assiento does not contain above eighty families ; some of which are Spaniards, but all poor, The names of the villages are, 1. San Lorenzo. V. Guaranda. U. Asaneoto. VI. Guanujo. UT. Chapacoto. VII. Tomabelas. | IV. San Miguel. , Tue most-considerable of their villages is that of Guaranda, though the inhabitants are generally Mes- tizos ; there are some Indians, but very few Spaniards. Tue jurisdiction of Chimbo, being the first. of the Serrania, or ridge of mountains, bordering on that of Guayaquil, carries on, by. means of innumerable droves of mules, the whole trade of Quito and the other provinces, by the way of Guayaquil, carrying the bales of cloth, and stuffs, together with the meal, corn, and other products of the country, from the former to the latter; and returning with wine, brandy, salt, cotton, fish, oil, and other goods wanted in the provinces of the mountains. ‘his traffic is of in- conceivable benefit to the inhabitants; but it can only be carried on during the summer, the roads in the winter being absolutely impracticable to beasts of any kind. ‘This intermission of trade they call ‘Cerrarse la montana,’ The shutting up of the moun- tains. Tue ' Cu. - SOUTH AMERICA. 315 Tue temperature of the air at Guaranda, and that of the greatest part of the jurisdiction of Chimbo, from the proximity of Chimborazo, so often mention- ed for its frigorific effects, is very cold. The coun- try is large and fertile, like those already mentioned; but the hagiendas, or farms, are in general appropri- ated to the breeding of mules ; ; a few only being sown with different species of grain. VII. Tue jurisdiction of Guayaquil is the last ; ‘but this has been already treated of at large. GHAPD. IT. + Sequel of the Account of the cai in the ~ Province of Quito. Vill. HE jurisdiction bordering on the southern parts of Riobamba,: is “that of Cuenga, whose capital is the city of the same name, founded in the year 1557 by Gil Ramirez Davalos. Its ju- risdiction is divided into two departments, of which the capital is one, and that of Alausi the other; the last reaches to Riobamba, and is governed by a de- puty of the corregidor. © Besides the assiento, it con- tains only the four following villages: I. Chumche. II. Cibambe. Ii. Guasuntos. IV. Ticsan. . Bur that of the city of Cuenga incudes ten : 11001 I. Azogues. VI. Paccha. JL Atuncanar. VIL. Gualaseo. Ill. Giron. VIL. Paute. IV. Canary-bamba. 1X. Delec. Y. Espiritu. X. Molleturo, , THE 316 A VOYAGE TO. Boox VI. Tar city of Cuenga lies in 2° 53° 49” south Jati- tude, and 29’ 25” west of the meridian of Quito. It stands in a very spacious plain, along which, at about _ half a league to the northward of the city, runs a little river called Machangara; and close to the south side of the city runs another known by the name of Matadero. Besides these, at the distance of a quarter of a league, runs another - called Yanuncay ; and at about the same distance is anothér termed Los Banos, from a village of that name, through which it flows. All these rivers are at some seasons ford- able; but at others can only be crossed with safety over the bridges. THE plain 1 in which this city stands, reaches about six leagues from north to south ; and hee! four rivers, whose courses are nearly in the same direction, form, at a small distance, by the conflux of their streams, a very large river. To the south of the city is another plain of about two. leagues in extent, and, with its great variety of regular plantations of trees, and-otlier rural improvements, makes a very delightful appear- ance all the year round, - Thas city may be classed among those of the fourth order. Its streets are straight, and of a convenient breadth ; the houses of unburnt bricks, tiled, and many of them have one story, the owners, from a rl- diculous affectation of grandeur, preferring elegance to security. The suburbs, inhabited by the Indians, are, as usual, mean and regular,. Several streams of water, by great labour, are brought from the above rivers, and flow through the streets; so that the city is plentifully supplied ; ‘and for its admirable situation, and the fertility of the soil, it might be rendered the paradise, not only of the province of Quito, but of all Peru; few cities being capable to boast of so many advantages as concentre here; but, either from supine- ness or ignorance, they are far from being duly im- proved. “One cireumstance, which adds a singular beauty Ch, Il. SOUTH AMERICA. 317 beauty to: its situation, is, that the mountains are not so high as to intercept the view of a beautiful coun= try; but at a proper distance they rise again to their stupendous height, as is seen in the mountain Azuay, which divides this jurisdiction from that of Alausi. Cuenga contains three parishes; that of the great church consists of Spaniards and Mestizos; the two others, which aye called San Blas and San Sebastian, are for the Indians, Here are convents of Franciscans, Dominicans, Augustines, and the Fathers of Mercy; a college of Jesuits, and two nunneries, one of the Conception, and the other of Santa Teresa. Here is also an hospital, but through ill management now al- most in ruins. Tue magistracy iscomposed of regidores and ordie nary alcaldes, which, according to the general custom, are chosen annually, and at their bead is the corregi- dor. Here is a chamber of finances, under the di- rection of an accomptant and treasurer. It was for- merly kept in the city of Sevilla del Oro, a juris- diction, and the capital of the department of Macas; but on the loss of the city of Logrono, the village of Cuambaya and other places, it was removed to Loja, and since to Cuenga. The revenues paid into it consist of the tribute of the Indians of this depart- ment, together with that of Alausi, the jurisdiction of Loja, and the government of Jean de Bracamoros; the duties on provisions, and the customs collected at Naranjal. Tue inhabitants here, though of the same classes with those of Quito, differ something in their genius and manners; particularly in a most shameful indo- lence, which seems so natural to them, that they have » a strange aversion to all kinds of work; the vulgar are also rude, vindictive, and, in short, wicked in every sense.’ From this general reproach, the women must, however, be excepted, being remarkable for an uncommon spirit of industry; as if they were de= — termined 318 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. termined to atone for the indolence of the other sex. They spin and weave bays, which, for their goodness, and especia!!y the brilliancy of the colours, are famous in every part of Pern. They also weave some tucu- yos; and make bargains with the merchants or tra- ders. They buy and sell; and, in short, manage en- tirely that little commerce by which their families are: suoported : whilst their husbands, brothers, and fa- thers, give themselves up to sloth and idleness, with all its infamous concomitants. The whole number of inhabitants of this city is computed at twenty or thirty thousand souls; and both those of the city and of the jurisdiction are commonly known by the gene- ral name of Morlacos. Tue pleasures arising from the fertility of the soil are increased by the mite of the climate, the li- quor of the thermometer fluctuating the whole year between 1013 and 10155 so that the cold is very little felt, and the heat very supportable. With re- . gard to rains, and tempests of thunder and lightning,. they are as common here as at Quito. In calm wea- ther, the sky is serene, and the inhabitants healthy ; - nor are malignant fevers and pleurisies, though com- mon to the whole province, so often khown as at Quito. The country is finely interspersed with farm- houses and plantations.of sugar canes; some parts are cultivated for corn, and others applied to the feeding of sheep and horned cattle, from the last of which “they make great quantities of cheese, not in- ferior to that of Europe: and accordingly there is a very considerable demand for it all over these parts. THE village of Atun-canar, or Great-canar, is famous for its extensive corn fields, and the rich har- vest they afford. It is also remarkable for the riches concealed in its mountains, the bravery of its ancient inhabitants, and their unshaken loyalty to Ynca Tu- pac-Yupanqui, to whom, when his army intended for this country was arrived near the frontiers, TS of : their Criba - SOUTH AMERICA. | 319 their inability of making any effectual resistance, they submitted, and paid him all the honours which de- noted a voluntary subjection; and these marks of loy- alty so possessed the emperor in their favour, that, to encourage them to cherish such goud dispositions, he ordered several magnificent temples, splendid palaces, and forts, all of stone, to be built here, in the man- ner of those of Cusco, and the inside of the walls to be plated over with gold... And of these works some | monuments still remain in a fort and palace, and of which neither time nor accidents have obliterated their astonishing magnificence; a description will be given of both in another place. - These works had such hap- py effects on the grateful inhabitants, that they fell at last victims to their loyalty ; for, having sided with the Ynea Huescar, their lawful sovereign, against his brother Ata Huallpa, and the former losing a decisive battle, the conqueror inhumanly abused his victory, by - destroying those unhappy persons who had done no more than their duty, no less than 60,000 of them being massacred in cold blood. These Indians were united with the Guasantos, and those of Pamallacta, in which districtare still to «be seen the ruins of another fort, built by the Yncas. The intimacy between the inbabitants of these coun- tries was so remarkable, that they were all called Ca- narejos, that under one name they might form one body. The assiento of Alausi, the chief place of the second department, is not very populous, though among its inhabitants are some Spanish families of the first rank. The other inhabitants are Mestizos and Ladians, but both classes in mean circumstances. The patochial church is the only ecclesiastical structure; nor has this ‘the ornaments which decency requires. «+ ‘Tue village of Ticsan, which stood in this depart- ment, was totally destroyed by an earthquake, and the inhabitants removed to a safer situation. ‘Phe marks | of 320 A VOYAGE TO Boox VÍ. of these dreadful convulsions of nature are still visible in several chasms among the mountains, many being two or three feet broad, a convincing proof of the violent concussions in the bowels of the earth at the time of that catastrophe. The temperature of the air is here something colder than at Cuenca; but not ina degree sufficient to lessen the exuberant fertility of the soil. AMONG the greatvariety of mines in the jurisdiction of Cuenga, and which I shall consider more at large in the sequel, those of gold and silver, according to the common opinion, are not the least numerous. Re- port has indeed magnified them to such adegree, that, to prove the astonishing quantity of those metals, the inhabitants relate the following storv, the truth of which I do not pretend to warrant. It exhibits in- deed an instance so contrary to the common order of things, as tobe scarce reconcileable to reason. I shall, however, venture to relate it, because, if the reader should think it incredible, it will at least serve to convey an idea of the riches supposed to be con- cealed in the bowels of the mountains. BerwEEN the valleys of Chugui-pata, which ex- tend from the village and jurisdiction of Los Azogues southward, and that of Poute running eastward along thebanksofthesamename, are several eminences which divide the two plains, andamong these onehigherthan the rest called Supay-urco, a name said to have been given it on the following account. An inhabitant of the province of Estramadura in Spain, from the ex- tremity of his distress, abandoned himself to despair; and, in the frenzy of his wild imagination, sometimes implored the assistance of Satan,and sometimescursed the moment that gave birth to his wretched being, and was for laying violent hands upon himself. The devil taking advantage of his condition appeared to him, but in a dress which sufficiently concealed his nature, and courteously asked the cause of his ex- cessive Cu... SOUTH AMERICA. ' 321 cessive melancholy ; and being informed that it was owing to an unhappy change of circumstances, from a plentiful fortune to the most extreme poverty, the devil, with a cheerful air, told him, that he weuld show him a spot from whence he might have what quantity of gold he pleased, the mine being absolutely. inexhaustible. The Spaniard embraced the offer with the greatest transport of joy ; and, concluding that it would at least prove a journey of some days, pur- chased, with the penurious remains of his substance, a few loaves, which he packed up in his wallet; and, his mind being something easier from these flattering promises, laid himself down to rest till the time ap- pointed, when he was to call upon bis guide. But when he awaked, he found himself in a country ab- solutely unknown, the plain of Chequipata lying be- fore him, and himself reclined on the eminence of Supay-urco. His astonishment, at viewing such mul- titudes of strange objects, can be much better con- ceived than expressed. For.some time indeed he doubted whether they were real or illusive, till tired with uncertainties, and determined to know in what country he was, he directed his way toa house of some figure, which he saw at a distance. This hap- pened fortunately to belong to a Spaniard, who was a native of the same province of Estramadura; and being informed by his servants that a stranger of the same country was at the: gate, the master, pleasing himself with the hopes of hearing some news from his native land, ordered him to be brought i in, received him with great marks of friendship, and, being at breakfast, made him sit down with bim, and began to enter on the pleasing cid after his friends and re- lations; but his guest taking out one of his loaves, which the gentleman knew was baked in Spain, aiid finding it quite new, was so lost in astonishment, that he forgot both his breakfast and relations, insisting (though afraid to hear) that bis apparent countryman AOL. L. zi should 322 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. should inform him how it was possible to make so long a voyage in so short a time. ‘The other readily satisfying ie desire, they both agreed that this must have been an ‘action of that enemy to mankind, who had brought the poor Spaniard thither to enrich him- self from the treasures concealed in the bowels of the hill on which he had laid him; and ever since it has been called Supay-urco, or the Devil's Hill. This. story is well known throughout all the jurisdiction of Cuenca, even the children are cea Bees with it; and father Manuel Rodriguez, in Ins * Historia de! Ma- ranon, y Amazonas, lib. ii. cap. 4.’ mentions it. From all which it may be inferred, that it is, in reality, of as. ancient a date as the inhabitants of Cuenga pretend ; that it has descended through a long series of time without alteration ; and from this story, though desti- tute of proof, the notion that this hill contains an in- exhaustible treasure had its rise. IX. Tue last jurisdiction of the province of Quito, on this side, is that of Loja, the capital of which is called by the same name, te was founded in the year 1546, by captain Alonso de Pie adillo. It resembles, in extent, form, and buildings, the city of Cuenga; but the temperature of the air is dodo hotter. In ics district are the following fourteen villages: E: ten and Ona. VI. Zororonga. If. San fuen del Valle. IX Domingui llo. YT. Zaruma. B.S atocha IV. Yuluc. XL San Lucas deAmboca. V. Guachanana. ee) Sees. VI. Gonzanama. . XIU. Malacat VII. Cariumanga. “XIV. San Pedro del Valle. Losa, besides two churches, has screral convents, a nunnery, acollege of Jesuits, and an hospital. In theterritory of this jurisdiction is i -oduced that famous specific for intermitti: y fevers, Known by the. fy) L name Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 323 name of Cascarilla de Loja, or Quinquina. Of this specific there are different kinds, one of which is more efficacious than the others. M. de Jussieu, whom I have already had occasion to mention more than once, being sent to make botanical observations, and take care of the health of the academicians, took the trou- ble of making a journey to Loja, purely to examine the tree which produces it; and in a full description, which he drew up for the satisfaction of botanists and other curious persons, enters, with his known skill and accuracy, into.a very minute distinction of the several Species, and enumerates the smallest circumstances. At the same time he was pleased to inform the cor- regidor of the differences, and to instruct the Indians employed in cutting it to distinguish each species, that the best sort only might be sent unmixed to Europe. Nor was this all; he farther instructed them how to make an extract of it, and prevailed on the inhabitants of that territory to use it, where its vir- tues had till that time been neglected, though inter- mitting fevers are there as common as in any other parts. Before he undeceived them, the natives 1ma- gined that it was exported to Europe only as an in- gredient in dyeing; and though they were not entirely ignorant of its virtues, they made no use of it, little imagining that a simple of so hot a nature could be good forthem. But this ingenious physician con- vinced them of their mistake by many happy effects ; so that now it is generally used in all kinds of fevers: and persons of undoubted veracity, who have since visited Loja, have given me very pleasing accounts of its salutary effects. » Tue tree which produces the cascarilla is not of the largest size, its usual height being about two toises and a half, and the body and branches of a propor- tionate thickness. In this, however, there is some dif- ference, and in that consists the roodness of the cas- carilla, the largest branches not yielding the best. O Ter 324 —_AVOYAGETO Book VI. There is also a différence both in the blossom and seed. TheIndians, in order to take off the cassarilla or cortex, cut down the tree; after which they bark it, and dry the quinquina. There are here large and thick forests of this tree; but notwithstanding this, there is a very sensible diminution of them, occa- sioned by the Indians not sowing the seed; those which grow spontaneously not being by any means equal tu those which have been cut down. In the jurisdiction of Cuenca have also been dis- covered many woody parts, in which this valuable tree is found: and when I was in that country, a priest at Cuenca procured alarge quantity of cascarilla, and sent it to Panama, the only place from whence it is exported. ‘This instance, together with his as- surances that it was of the same kind with that of Loja, induced several of the inhabitants of Cuenca to attempt the discovery, and were soon convinced that the jurisdiction contained large forests of this tree, which had been neglected by them, whilst their neigh- bours reaped no small advantages from it. THE jurisdiction of Loja has also a very great ad- vantage from breeding the cochineal, and which intel- ligent persons reckon of equal goodness with that of Oaxaca in New Spain; but the inhabitants are so far from applying themselvesto the breeding of that insect, sufficient to supply the demands ofa particular trade, that they breed no more than what they imagine will be sufficient for the dyers in that and the neighbouring jurisdiction of Cuenga. ‘To this elegant and lasting colour it is probably owing that the bays of Cuenga, and the carpets of Loja, are preferred to all others: though the beauty of the colours may in some measure proceed from the superior skill of the workmen of Loja and Cuenca, over those of Quito and other parts of the province where the same goods are manu- factured. ‘Lhe cochineal is also bred in the depart- ment of Hambato, though without any constant ga- thcilngs Ca. Hi SOUTH AMERICA. 325 therings of that insect. It is not however to be “ doubted, but that a more careful attention would ensure them the same success in great as in smalll quantities. Havine mentioned this insect, so highly valued in every part of the world for the incomparable beauty of its red, which it equally communicates to wool, silk, eens and cotton, it may be expected that I should give some farther account of it; and as I should*be sorry to disappoint any rational curiosity of my readers, and at the same time to insert any thing that is not strictly true, [ was unwilling to rely w holly on my own experience ; together with the accounts Í procured at Loja and Hambato, especially as Oaxaca is the principal place where this insect is produced, I made it my business to consult persons well acquainted with the subject, and received the following account, in which they all unanimously agreed. Tue cochineal is bred on a plant known in Oaxaca, -and all those parts where it abounds, by the name of | nospal*, or nopalleca, the Indian fig-tree, which,.ex- cept in the difference of the foliage, resembles the tunos, so common in the kingdom of Andalusia. The leaf of the tuna being broad, flat, and prickly; and that of the nopal, oblong, with perl eminences; and instead of spines, has a fine smooth membrane, of a fine permanent and lively green. Tue method of planting the nopal is by making rows of holes, about half a yard deep, and about two yards distant from one another. In each of these holes #3 placed one or two leaves of the nopal, in a flat posi- tion, and then covered with earth. ‘This leaf soon aficr shoots up into a single stem, which during its growthdivides into several branches, and these succes- * This plant is called by botanists, Opuntia maxima, folio oblango rotundo majore, spinulis obtusis mollibus et innocentibus obsito, flore striis rubris variegato. Sloane’s Catalogue. MS sively y 326 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. sively produce fresh leaves, the largest being nearest to the stem, which is full of knots, as are alsothebranches, and from these the leaves have their origin. ‘Vhe usual height of this plant is about three yards, which it seldom exceeds. ‘Lhe season when the nopal dis- plays all its beauty and vigour is, like that of other plants, from the spring to the autumn, which at Oaxaca, and other parts of North America,, is at the same time as in Spain, Its blossom is small, of a bright red, and in the shape of a bud, from the centre of which proceeds the tuna, a name given to its fruit; and as this increases, the blossom fades, till at length it falls. When the tuna, or fig, is ripe, the outward skin becomes white; but the pulp is so fully impregnated with a deep red, that it tinges of a blood colcur the urine of those who eat it; a circumstance of no small uneasiness to those who are unacquainted with this particular. Few fruits, however, ate either more wholesome or pleasant. Tuer ground where the nopal is intended to be planted must be carefully cleansed- from all kinds of weeds, as they drain the soil of those juices which the nopal requires. Also after the cochineal is taken from the plant, which is never done till the insects are arrived at perfection, all the superfluous leaves are plucked off, that they may be succeeded by others the following year. For it must be observed, that the ehintal which are bred on young plants thrive much Letter, and are of a finer quality, than those produced on such as have stood some years. Tue cochineal was formerly imagined to bea fruit or seed of some particular plant; an error which pro- bably arcse from an ignorance of the manner in which it is propagated; but, at present, every one is convinced of its being an insect, agreeably to its name, signifying a wood- jouse, which gencrally breeds in damp places, especially in gardens. These insects, by rolling themselves up, form a little ball, some- thing Cu. IL SOUTH AMERICA. 325 thing less than a pea, and in some places are known by the name of Baquilas de San Anton, i. e. St. An- thony’s little cows: and such is the figure of the cochineal, except that it has not the faculty of rol- ling ale: up; and its magnitude, when at its full growth, does not exceed that of a tick, common in dogs and other animals. THEsE insects breed and are nourished on the no- pals, where their eggs are placed among the leaves ; the juice of the plant, tena is their sole nourishment, becomes convertedinto their substance; when, instead of being thin and waterish, and, to all outward ap- pearance, of little or no use, it is rendered a most beautiful crimson colour. The plant is in May or June in its most vigorous state, and at this favour- able season the eggs are deposited ; and in the short space of two months, from an animalcule, the insect grows up to the size abovementioned: but its infant state 1s exposed to a variety of dangers; the violent blasts of the north wind sweep away the eggs from the foliage of the plant; and, what is equally fatal to their tender constitutions, showers, fogs ¿and frosts, often attack them, and destroy the leaves: peer ing the careful cultivator this only resource, namely, that of making fires at certain distances, and filling the air with smoke, which frequently preserve them from the” fatal effects of the inclemency of the weather, Tue breeding of cochineal is also greatly obstruct. ed by birds of different kinds, which: are very fond of these insects; and the same danger is to be appre- hended from the worms, &c. which are found among the plantations of nopals: so that, unless constant care be taken to fright the birds away from the plan- tation, and to clear the ground of those various kinds of vermin which multiply so fast in it, the owner will be greatly “aes in his expectations. WHEN the insects are at their full growth, they are gathered and put into pots of earthen ware; but great + 4. atíention 328 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. attention is requisite to prevent them from getting out, as in that case great numbers of them would be lost: though there is no danger of.it, where they are at liberty on the nopal leaves, those being their natural halitation, and where they enjoy a plenty of delicious food ; for though they often remove from one leaf to another, they never quit the plant ; nor isit uncommon to see the leaves entirely covered with them, especially when they are arrived at matu- rity. When they have been confined some time in these pots, they are killed and put into bags. The Indians have three different methods of killing these insects; one by hot water, another by fire, ELE a third by the rays of the sun; and to these are owing the several gradations of the colour, which in some isdark, « and in others bright ; but all require a certain degrce of heat. Y hose, therefore, who use hot water are very careful to give it the requisite best, and that the quantity of water be proportioned to the number of insects. The method of killing them by fire, is to put them on shovels into an oven, moderately heated for that intention ; the fine quality of the cochineal depending on its not being over-dried at the time of killing the insees: and it must be owned, that among the several ways made use of to destroy this valuable creature, that of the rays of the sun seems to bid fairest. for performing it in the most perfect manner, Busipes the precaution requisite in killing the co» chineal, in order to preserve its quality, it is equally necessary to know when it is in aproper state for being removed from the leaves of the nopal ; but, as experi- ence only can teach the cuitivator this necessary cri- terion, no fixed rule can be laid down. Accordingly, in these provinceswhere the cultivation of theseinsects is chiefly carried on, those gathered by Indiang of one village ‘differ from those gathered in another ; ti "+ even ee gathered by one person in the same villag aro Cu. H. SOUTH AMERICA . 329 are often different from those gathered by another ; every individual adhering to his own method. Tue cochineal insect may in some circumstances be compared to the silkworm, particularly in the man- ner of depositing its eggs. The insects destined for this particular are taken at a proper time of their growth, and put into a box well closed, and lined with a coarse cloth, that none of them be lost. In this confinement they lay their eggs and die. The box is‘kept close shut till the time of placing the eggs on the nopal, when, if any motion is perceived, itis a sufficient indication that the animalcule has life, | though the egg is so minute as hardly to be per- ceived; and this is the sced placed on the foliage of the nopal, and the quantity contained in the shell of a hen’s egg is sufficient for covering a whole plant. It is remarkable that this insect does not, or at least in any visible manner, injure the plant; but extracts its nourishment from the most succulent juice, which it sucks by means of its proboscis through the fine teguments of the leaves. ‘THE principal countries where the cochineal insects are bred, are Oaxaca, Flascala, Ceulula, Nueva Gal- licia, and Chiapa in the kingdom of New Spain; and Hambato, Loja, and Tucuman in Peru. And though the nopal thrives equally in all, yet it 1s only in Oaxaca that they are gathered in large quantities, and form a branch of commerce, the cultivation of these little creatures being there the chief employ- ment cf the Indians; whereas in others, where the inhabitants take but little trouble in their cultivation, they breed wild, and those gathered in them are ac- cordingly called grana sylvestria*, | Not that either ihe insects or nopals are of different species ; for with regard tothe disadvantageous difference between the * This wild cochineal is generally knowrin England by the name cochineal mestique. colour 330 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI colour of the wild cochineal and that of Oaxaca, it does not proceed from a difference of species, but from a want of proper care*in its improvement; and were the culture cvery where alike, «this difference would no longer subsist. But the Indiansne glectit, either because no commerce of that kind has been opened among them ; or from an aversion to the trouble and attention requisite to bring those insects to perfection ; or, lastly, ‘from the apprehensi sion that the fruits of all their time and care may be destroyed by one of the above-mentioned accidents. Tar temperature best adapted to the production of this insect cannet be precisely determined, there being in Oaxaca, as well as in the province of Quito, perts of very different temperatures, some hot, some temperate, and others cold ; yet all breed the cochi- — neal. It is, however, very probable, that the most proper climate is the temperate and dry; because in these the nopal thrives the best. And agreeably to this observation it is remarked, that Hambato and Loja are the countries in the provinee of Quito where they most abound; though they are also seen in other parts, where hits the heat and cold are greater, Here I cannot help observing, that Andalusia in Spain appears to me cxtremely well situated for, breeding cechineal, both from the nature of the clic mate, id the plantation of fig-trees, which there at- tain so great perfection. Here also neither frosts, fogs, or snows, are to be apprehended, particularly in spring; and the happy medium between cold and beat is, as J have before observed, that wh:ch this creature is par- ticularly fond of, Tue inhabitants of Loja, who are known all over this province by the name of Lojanos, do not exceed ten thousand souls, though formerly, when the city was in its greatest prosperity, they were much more numerous, | Their character is uch better than that ef. E A to A TES are a a, A ee PS ate x ee — —— oe 7. dE SOUTH AMERICA. ee of the inhabitants of Cuenga ; and besides their af finity in customs and tempers to the other villages, they cannot be branded with the character of being «slothful. In thts jurisdiction, such numerous droves of horned cattle and mulesare bred, that it Sup) plies the others of this province, and that of Piura in Valles. ‘The carpets also manufactured here are of such remarkable fineness, that they find a ready sale -wherever they are sent. THE corregidor of Loja is also governor of Yagu- arsongo, and principal alcalde of the mines of Zaruma; and, as such, achair of state is placed for him at all public solemnities of the church, where he is present; a distinguishing honour allowed only to the presidents or governors of those provinces. The post of go- vernor of Yaguarsongo is at present a mere title with- out any jurisdiction ; part of the villages which formed it being lost by the revolt of the Indians, and the others added to the government of Jaen ; so that the corregidor of Loja enjoys only those honours in- tended to continue the remembrance of that govern- ment. Tue town of Zeruma, in the jurisdiction of which are those mines of gold I shall mention in another part, has presented the corregidor of Loja with the title of its'alcalde major. It was one of the first towns founded in this province, and at the same time one of the most opulent; but is at present in a mean condition, owing chiefly tothe decay of its mines, on which account most of the Spanish families have re- tired, some to Cuenga, and others to Loja ; so that at present its inhabitants are said not to excecd six thousand. The declension of these mines, which is not so much to be imputed to a scarcity of metal, as tothe negligence of those concerned in working them, has been disadvantageous to the whole depart- ment of Loja; and consequently diminished the num- ber of its inhabitants. : Havine y 332 A VOYAGE TO — Boox VI. Havixc thus described those nine jurisdictions which form the most wealthy part of the province of Quito, I shall, in the following chapters, treat of the governments. > CHAP. JEL Account of the Governments of Popayan and Atacames, belonging to the Province of Quito. E have already given a just account of every thing worthy notice in the jurisdictions within the audience of Quito. To render the narrative com- plete, itis necessary that we now proceed to the go- vernments within the limits of that audience; as they jointly forin the vast country of the province of Qui- to. And though they generally give the name of province to every government, and even to the de- partments into which both are subdivided, we shall not here follow this vulgar acceptation, it being in reality founded only on the difference of the notions of In- dians who formerly inhabited this country, every one being governed a its curaca, or despotic sovereign. ES nations the Yncas subdued, and obliged them to receive the laws of their empire: but the curacas were confirmed in all those hereditary rights of sove- reientg compatible with the supreme “prerogative, Were we haa to use the name of province in this sense, every village must be calied so; for it may be easily shown, that, in the time of heathenism, every village had its particular curaca: and sometimes, as in Valles, in this jurisdiction of Popayan, in Maynas, and the Moragnon, there was not only a curaca in each village, with all the appendages of government, but the inhabitants spoke a different language, had dif- ferent laws and customs, and lived totally independent of each other. But these villages and ancient pro- 2 vinces ~ Cu. Il. SOUTH AMERICA. 333 vinces being now comprehended under the jurisdic- tion of one single tribunal; and those which before were under a multitude of curacas acknowledging one sovereign, and composing one province, where justice is administered to them in the mame of the prince ; and the governments being in juridical af- fairs dependent on the audience of Quito; they can only be considered .as parts of its province. It is therefore requisite, in order to form a proper idea of this country, that I should treat of them in the same circumstantial manner I have already observed in de- ~ scribing the jurisdictions. I. Tue first government in the province of Quito, and which terminates it on the north, is that of Po- payan. It is not indeed wholly dependent on it, being divided into two jurisdictions, of which that on the north and east belong to the audience of Santa Fé, or the new kingdom of Grenado ; Quito having only those parts lying towards the south and west; so that, without omitting any thing remarkable in the whole government, I shall bea little more explicit in my account of the department belonging to Quito. THE conquest of the whole country now contain- ing the government of Popayan, or at least the greater part of it, was performed by that famous commander Sebastian de Belalcazar, who, being governor of the province of Quito, where he had settled a perfect tranquillity, and finished the building of that cily, being informed that on the north side of his govera- ment lay a country of great cxtent, and richer than the parts he already possessed, prompted by that spirit which had animated the Spaniards to extend their re- putation by a series of amazing conquests in this part of the globe, he set out on bis enterprise in 1536, at the head of 300 Spaniards ; and after several sharp en- counters with the Indians of Pasto, who first opposed his march, he proceeded in his conquests, and reduced the two principal curacas of that country, Calam- bas ica A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. bas and Popayan (after whom both the country and chief town were called), two brothers equally respect- ed for their power and military talents. ‘This defeat opened him a passage to future conquests; and the neighbouring nations, terrified at the success of those illustrious warriors, submiiteed to the king of Spain. Belalcazar, after these exploits, in the prosecution of his conquests, had several other encounters with In- dians, fired with the disdain of submitting toa foreign yoke. His conquests were, however, at last so ra- pid, that at the close of the same year he pitched his camp in the centre of that country, where the mild- ness of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and salu- brity of the air, conspired to induce him to render it the seat of the Spanish government. Accordingly, in 1537, he laid the foundation of the first city, which still retains the name of Popayan ; and whilst the place was building, he, to keep his people in exer- cise, and prevent the Indians he had conquered from forming themselves into a new army, or carrying on any clandestine correspondence with those whom his arms had not reached, sent out detachments different ways, with orders to march into the neighbouring countries, that they might prevent the rising of some, and reduce others to obedience. BreLarcazar had scarce finisbed his new town, when the officers of these corps, on their return, made such a report of the riches and fertility of the country, that he determined to view it in person, increase the number of towns, and by that means secure the pos- session of it. Accordingly he continued his march to Cali, where he built a town, which still retains the same name, though in a different country ; for af. ter it was finisbed in the country of the Gorrones In- dians, captain Miguel Munoz soon after removed it, on account of the unlealthiness ef the air. Be- Jaleazar founded also ancther town, called Santa Fé de Antioquia ; and, charmed with the fertility and richness Cu. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 335 richness of the country, he proceeded to people it every where. Nor was this all; for Belalcazar, in order to en- hance the glory and importance of this country, was very desirous of making a road from Quito to the North Sea, as he had before done to the Pacifick Ocean. Among the discoveries made by his captains whilst he was employed in superintending the build- ing of Popayan, one was, that at no great distance from that place were two of the principal sources of the great river of Magdalena; whence he conceived they might easily find a passage to the North Sea. This opinion the general had the pleasure of finding unanimously agreed to, which induced him to make every disposition for the security and welfare of his conquests, being determined to return by way of that river,to Spain, in order to solicit the title of governor of the country which he had discovered, conquered, and peopled. Accordingly the title was conferred on him, and in his government were comprehended all the territories then considered as within his conquests; but in the year 1730 the country of Choco was se- parated from it, and made a particular government, though the order was not carried into execution till the year 1735. This part, belonging to the province of the new kingdom of Granada, does not come within our description. - Tue city of Popayan, one of the most ancient in these parts, that title having been granted it on the fifth of July 1538, stands in a large plain, having on the north side an interrupted prospect of the coun- try. Its latitude is 2° 28” north ; lies about two de- grecs east of the meridian of Quito, on the east Side of a mountain of a middling height called M, from the resemblance it bears to that letter; and, being covered with a variety of trees, affords an en- tertaining prospect: the west side is also diversified with small eminences. THE 336 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. Tue city is moderately large, with broad, straight, Jevel streets ; and, though not every where paved, are equally convenient, the foot- path near the houses being paved in all parts; and the middle of the streets, being composed of a hard small gravel, is ne- ver dirty in rainy weather, nor dusty in the great droughts of this climate; bence the middle of the streets are more convenient for walking'than even the pavement itself. í Tue houses are built of unburnt bricks, as at Quito, and entirely of the same construction : alt the houses of note have a story; but the others only a ground floor. An idea of the largeness and conve- nience of the offices and apartments may be formed by their outward appearance, as well as the magnifi- eence of the furniture, which is all brought from £u- rope; the expence of which must be enormouslygreat, as, beside the’ long voyage, there is a necessity for bringing it a prodigious distance by land carriage, and subject to unknown dangers in these countries. The church was erected into a cathedral in theyear 1547, and is the only parochial church in the city. Not that its extent is too small for maintaining others; but, having originally been the only church, the pre- bends could never be brought to allow of its being subdivided, and part of its revenues applied to the support of other parishes. Here are also conven sof Franciscans, Dominicans, and Augustines, with a col. lege of Jesuits ; all ofthem having churches. In the latter is also a grammar school. The plan of an uni- versity, under the direction of the same fathers, 1s in such forwardness, that the charter isalready granted. The number of religious belo: nging to each of these convents is but small, some of them amounting to no more than six or eight. It is, however, very different with regard to one of the nunneries; that of the Incar- nation, the professed nuns being between forty and fifty; but the whole number, nuns, seculars, and servants included, ~ Cu. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 337 included, exceeds four hundred. The other nunnery is of the order of Santa Teresa. All these convents and their churches are pretty large; and if the latter do not dazzle the sight with the splendor of their orna- ments, they do not want any which decency requires. Here was formerly a convent of bare-footed Carme- lites, built on a spacious plain, near the top' of the mountain of M, from whence, on account of the sharpness of the winds, the fathers some time after removed to the foot of the mountain. But they were also soon disgusted with their new situation ; the dry and salted fish, salads, and such like, being the only particulars which this country affords, suitable to the perpetual abstinence of their order; and accordingly they again retired to their original situation, chusing rather to suffer the inclemency of the weather, than _ be confined to disagreeable food. This was the case of another convent of the same order founded at La- tacunga, where there is also no fresh fish of any sort to be had. It must, however, he observed, that the Teresian convents, who are under the same vow of abstinence, are not discouraged by these inconveni- ences ; nor is there a single instance of any deficiency in the appointed number of nuns. - From the mountain of: M issues a river, which by running through the city, besides other conveni- ences, carries away all its soil. “Two bridges are erected over it, one of stone and the other of wood. ’ The name of this river is del Molino. Its waters have a particular medicinal virtue, which they are thought to derive from the many briars through which they flow. In this mountain is also‘a spring of very charming water; but, not being sufficient to supply the whole city, itis conveyed to tne nunneries, and the houses of men of rank. A little above aleague to the north of Popayan runs the river Cauca. It is very large and deep, its current rapid, and subject to dangerous swellings in the months of June, July, and O. 1. Z August ; 445 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. August; the season when the horrors of the moun- tains of Cuanacas, where it has its source, are at their height ; so that the passage of it is extremely dangerous, as many travellers, rashly exposing them- selves to the intenseness of its cold, amidst thick snows and violent winds, have fatally experienced. Tre inhabitants of Po; ayan and Quito differ very sensibly in their casts ; fot as at Quito and the other + towns and villages of its jurisdictions, the most nu- merous class of people is that of the casts which sprung from the intermarriages of Spaniards and In- dians ; so at Popayan, Carthagena, and other parts where Negroes abound, the lower class consists of casts resulting from the marriages of the Whites and Negroes; but very few Indian casts. This is owing to the | great multitude of Negro slaves kept as labourers: at the plantations in the country, the mines, and to do the servile offices in the city: so that the number of Indians here are very few, compared with the other parts of the province. ‘This government has, how- ever, many large villages of them; and it isonly in the capital, and other Spanish towns, that they are so greatly out-numbercd by the Negroes. Tux inhabitants of Popayan are computed at be- tween twenty and twenty-five thousand ; and among these are many Spanish families, particularly sixty, known to have been originally descended from very noble families in Spain. It is worth observing here, that, whilst other towns see their inhabitants constantly decreasing, Popayan may boast of a daily increase. This has indeed nothing mysterious in it; the many gold mines worked all over its jurisdiction, afford employment to the indigent, and, consequently, oc- casion a great resort of people to ‘these parts. Porayanistheconstant residence of the governor: whose office being purely civil, it is not requisite, as in many others, that he should be acquainted with mi- litary affairs. Within the jurisdiction of his govern. ment, 4 ~ ya Cu. Il. SOUTH AMERICA. 339 ment, all matters, civil, political, and military, arc un- der his direction. He is also the chief magistrate of the city; the others are the two ordinary alcaldes, chosen annually, and a proper number of regidores, the constitution being the same as in other cities. Here isa chamber of finances, into which are paid the several branches of the royal revenue ; as the tri- bute of the Indians, the duties on goods, the fifth of the metals, and the like. Tueecclesiastical chapter is composed of the bishop, whose revenue is settled at six thousand dollars annu- ally; the dean, who has five hundred ; the archdea- con, chanter, rector, and treasurer, who have each four hundred. ‘This see is a suffragan of the archbishop- rick of Santa Fé de Bogota. PoraYan,lying within the jurisdiction of the inqui- sition of Carthagena, has a commissary from thence. Here is also another of the Croisade; but the au- thority of these two judges extends not beyond the ‘diocese, which is far less than that of the, govern- nient, a considerable part of it belonging to ‘the arch- bishoprick of Quito, Tue jurisdiction of the government of Popayan reaches southward to the river Mayo, and to Ipiaies, where it borders on the jurisdiction of the town of Sa Miguel de Ibarra; north-east it terminates with the province of Antioguia, the last of its provinces, and contiguous to that of Santa Fé; and northward bor- ders on the government of Carthagena. Its ancient western bounds were the South sea, but it has since been so contracted by the new government of Choco, that the territory of Barbacoas is the only part of it which reaches to the sea; eastward it spreads itself to the.sources of the river Coqueta. which are also thought to be those of the river Oronoco and Negro: its extent is not precisely determined: but a probable conjecture may be made, that from cast to west it is about 80 leagues, and little less from north to south, Z 2 - This 340 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. This jurisdiction being so large, and containing many towns and villages, is divided into several depart- ments, over each of which the principal governor nominates a deputy for the administration of justice, and introduces them to the audience to which they belong, where his nomination. is confirmed ; a cir- cumstance necessary to procure them all the weight and security in the several departments which are con- ferred on them. ‘Those which form the government of Popayan are, 1. Santiago di Cali. VII. Almaguer. IT. Santa Fé de Antioquia. VIII. Caloto. | MI. Las Quatro Ciudades. IX. San Juan de Pasto. IV. Timana. X. El Raposo. V. Guadalajara de Buga. XI. Barbacoas. VI. S. Sebastian de la Plata. Ix each of these departments, besides the chief town, are several others very large and well peopled ; and great numbers of seats and farm-houscs, where the number of people employed gives them the ap- pearance of villages rather than private dwellings, * Or the above-mentioned departments, those to- wards the north and east of the city of Popayan, as Santa Fé de Antioquia, Las quatro Ciudades, Timana, and S. Sebastian de la Plata, belong to the audience and province of Santa Fé; the others ly- ing nearer to Quito belong to its province; and those of San Juan de Pasto, and Barbacoas, are within its diocese. Tue departments of Cali and Buga, lying betwixt the governments of Popayan and Choco, thrive, as being the channel of the commerce which is carried on continually betwixt those two governments : whereas it is otherwise with that of Almaguer, from the smallness of its jurisdiction, and the little traffic there. That of Caloto, as its extent is considerable, $0 - Cx. HI. SOUTH AMERICA. 341 so is it rich, and abounds in the products of the earth, the soil being fertile, and the country every where in- terspersed with farms. That of El Raposo is on the same happy footing as the two first. That of - Pasto is also large, but less wealthy. Barbacoas is very small ; and in such a general want of provisions, that, except a few roots and grains peculiar to hot and moist climates, it is supplied with every thing from other provinces. The temperature of this government is entirely the same as that already spoken of in the other parts of the province of Quito; that is, it varies according to the situation of places; some being more cold than hot, others the reverse ; and some, throughout the whole year, enjoy a continual spring, as particularly Popa- yan the capital. ' The like may be said of the soil, which exuberantly produces the grains and fruits proper to its situation: and the farms breed great numbers of horned cattle and sheep, for the consump- tion of the towns and country people: and in the ter- ritory of Pasto grasiery is a very profitable article, large herds and flocks being driven to Quito, where they always find a good market. The jurisdiction of Popayan is more subject to tempests of thunder and lightning, and earthq uakes, than even Quito; though in the latter, as we have observed, they are so very frequent. No longer ago than 1735, at one in the afternoon on the second of February, the greatest part of the town was ruined by one. This remarkable frequency of tempests and earthquakes, in the country of Popayan, may be conjectured to proceed from the great number of mines, in which it exceeds all the others within the province of Quito. Burt ofall the parts in this jurisdiction Caloto is ac- counted to be the most subject to tempests of thunder and lightning; this has brought into vogue Caloto bells, which not a few persons use, being firmly per- suaded that they have a special virtue against light- 23 ning, \ ‘ 342 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ning. And indeed so many stories are told on this head, that one is-at a loss what to believe. Without giving credit to, or absolutely rejecting all that is re- ported, leaving every one to the free decision of his own judgment, I shall only relate the most received opinion here. The town of Caloto, the territory of which contains a great number of Indians, of a nation called: Paezes, was formerly very large, but those es suddenly assaulting it, soon forced their way ‘set fire to the houses, add massacred the inhabi- ssh : among the slain was the priest of the parish, who was particularly the object of their rage, as preaching the gospel, with which they were sensible their savage manner of living did not agree, exposing the folly sale wickedness of their idolatry, and laying before them the turpitude of their vices, Even the bell of the church could not escape their rancour, as by its sound it reminded them of their duty to come and receive divine instruction. After many fruitless: - endeavours to break it, they thought they could do nothing better than to bury it under ground, that, by the sight of it, they might never be put in mind of the precepts of the gospel, which tended to abridge them of their liberty. On the news of their revolt, the Spaniards in the neighbourhood of Caloto armed; and, having taken a smart revenge of the insurgents in a battle. “they rebuilt the town, and having taken up the bell, they placed'itin the steeple of the new church; since wl hich the inhabitants, to their great joy and astonishment, observed, that, ‘when a tempest appeared brooding in the air, the tolling of the bell dispersed it; and if the weather did not every where grow clear and fair, at least the tempest discharged it- self in some other part. ‘The news of this miracle spreading every where, great solicitations were made for procuring pieces of it to make clappers for little bells, in order to enjoy the benefit of its virtue, which, in a country where tempests are both so dreadful and ‘frequent, « Ch. IL SOUTH AMERICA. _ 343 frequent, must be of the highest advantage. And to this Caloto owes its reputation for bells. In the valleys of Neyba, and others within the ju- risdiction of Popayan, is a very remarkable insect,’ particularly famous for the power of the small quan- tity of venom in it. This insect, which is shaped like a spider, is much less than a bite. Its common name is coya, but others call it coyba; its colour is of a fiery red, and, like spiders, it is generally found in - the corners of walls, and among the herbage. Tts >» venom is of such a malignity, that, on squeezing the insect, if any happen to fall on the skin of either man or beast, it immediately penetrates into the flesh, and causes large tumours, which are soon succeeded by — death. The only remedy hitherto known, is, on the first appearance of a swelling, tosinge the party all over the body with the flame of straw, or long grass, growing in those plains. In order to this, the Indians of that country lay hold of the patient, some by the feet, and others by the hands, and with great’dexteri- ty perform the operation, after which ‘the person is reckoned to be out of danger. But it is to be ob- served, that though this insect be so very noxious, yet squeezing it between the palms of the hands is attended with no bad a fróm whence the plain inference is, that the callus, usual on the hands of most people, prevents the venom from reaching _the blood. Accordingly the Indian muleteers, to please the curiosity of the passengers, squeeze them betwixt the palms of their hands, though unquestion- -ably, should a person of a delicate hand make a trial, the effects would be the same as on any other part of the body *. NATURE is equally admirable in her works, and in her care of them. Man is endued with discerninent, : * The Brazilians say, oil and salt is a certain cure for the poison of the coyba. A, DANA know- 344 A VOYAGE TO Baie XL knowledge, and observation, that he may avoid what- ever is hurtful to his being; and the irrational species receive the like notices from instinct, and are not less observant thai; man. “The people who travel along these valleys, where they are so much in danger of these coyas, according to the warning before given them by the Indians who attend them, though they feel something stinging them or crawling on their neck or face, are careful not to scratch the part, nor even so much as lift up their bands to it, the coya being of such a delicate texture that it would immediately burst: and as there is no danger whilst they do not eject the humour in them, the person acquaints some one of the company with what he feels, and points to the place; if it be a coya, the other blows it away. The beasts, who are not capable of such warning, are yet by instinct taught a precaution against the danger which may result from these insects in the pastures ; for before they offer to touch the herbage, they blow on it with all their force in order to disperse any of these pernicious vermin; and when their smell ac- quaints them that they are near a nest of coyas, they immediately leap back and run to some other part, Thus they secure themselves from the venom of these insects, though sometimes a mule, after all its blow- ing, has been known to take in some with its pasture, on which, after swelling to a frightful degree, they have expired on the spot. | AMONG the plants of the country of Popayan, ia the jurisdiction of ‘Timana, grows the cuca or coca, an herb so esteemed by the Indians in some provinces of Peru, that they would part with any kind of pro- visions, the most valuable metals, gems, or any thing else, rather than want it. It grows on a weak stem, which for support twists itself round another stronger vegetable, like the vine. Its leaf is about an inch and a half or two inches in length, and extremely smooth ; the use the Indians make of it is for chewing, mixing M Cu. Il. SOUTH AMERICA. | 345 it with a kind of chalk or whitish earth called mambi. They put into their mouth a few cuca leaves, and a suitable portion of mambi, and, chewing these toge- ther, at first spit out the saliva which that mandu- cation causes, but afterwards swallow it; and thus move it from one side of the mouth to the other, till its substance be quite drained; then it is thrown away, but immediately replaced by fresh leaves, This herb) is so nutritive and invigorating, that they labour whole days without any thing else; and on the want of : they find a decay in their strength: they also add, that it preserves the teeth sound, and fortifies ie) stomach. _ In the southern provinces of Peru great quantities of it are produced, being cultivated by the Indians ; but that growing wild in the neighbourhood of Cusco is accounted the best of any. It makes no small ar- ticle in trade, particularly vast quantities of it are carried to the mine-towns, that the owners of the mines may have wherewithal to furnish the Indians, who otherwise could not be brought to work, or would not have strength to go through it. Tuts coca is exactly the same with the betel of the East Indies. The plant, the leaf, the manner of using it, its qualities, are all the same ; and the eastern na- tions are no less fond of their betel than the Indians of Peru and Popayan are of their coca; But in the other parts of the province of Quito, as it is not produced, so neither is it used. In Pasto; one of the most southern districts of Po- payan, are certain trees which yield a resin called mopa-mopa ; and of this is made a varnish, which be- sides its exquisite beauty will bear boiling water, and even acids. The method of applying it is, to dissolve some of the resin in one’s mouth, and then wet the pencil with it; afterwards it is dipped in the colour which is to be laid on, and when dried has all the lustre of the esas, laque, but with this superior quality, 346 * ¡AVOYAGE TO >. Bogx VE. quality, that it never wears off, nor becomes moist, hoi rubbed with spittle. The cabinets, tables, dc. made by the Indians of this country, and thus varnished, are carried to Quito, where they are highly valued. Popayan is one of the best trading countries within the province of Quito, as all the vast variety of Spanish goods from Carthagena are consigned thither and forwarded to Quito; and great numbers of traders go their rounds through the several jurisdictions, to the great conveniency of the towns and villages, which thus supply Rite ht Besides this transitory commerce, it has another reciprocal with Quito, to which it ex- ports horned cattle and mules, and reccives in return cloths and bays. Its active commerce consists in dried beef, salted pork, roll-tobacco, hogs-lard, rum, cot- ton, pita, mbbons, and other saat wares, which are brought to Choco, and there exchanged for gold ; sugar and snuff are imported from Santa Fé and sent to Quito ; and the returns to Santa Fé are home-made cloths and bays. Hereis also another traffic, which consists in bartering silver for gold ; for, there being an abundanceof the latter, andascarcity of the former, silver 1s brought to exchange for gold ; of which great profit is made by converting it into doubloons: the hike is also practised at Choco and Barbacoas, which are in the same case as to metals. | Porayan being the centre of all these several kinds of-commerce, the most wealthy persons of the whole jurisdiction are here, and five or six of its inhabitants are reckoned to be masters of above 100,000 dollars; twenty to be worth betwixt 40 and 80,000, besides many of smaller, yet handsome, fortunes: and this exclusive of ‘Het farms and mines, with which this country abounds. The former are the same with those I have had occasion to mention in the other parts of this preyince, according to the quality of the temperature. WeEsT Cu. 1, SOUTH AMERICA. 347 ‘West of the western Cordillera of the Andes, is the government of Atacames, which on this quar- ter borders on the jurisdictions of the corregmientos of Quito and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra; northward on the department of Barbacoas in the go- vernment of Popayan; its western boundary is the South Sea; and southward it joins the territory of Guayaquil. Thus it reaches along the coast from the island of “Tumaco, and the house of Husinal, which lie in one degree anda half north latitude, to the bay of Caracas, : Had the mountains of Balsamo, in 34 min. south latitíide. The country of this jurisdiction lay along time uncultivated; and if not wholly, at least the greatest ‘part of it, unknown; for, after its conquests “by Se- bastian de Belalcazar, the peopling of it was neglected, either because the Spaniards were more intent uw regu- lating their conquests than in improving what they had got, or because the country did not seem to them so proper for a settlement as the sierra or mountainous parts; or perhaps they judged it barren and unhealthy. And though care was taken to furnish Quito with priests, to preserve its Indian inhabitants in an ad- herence to those precious truths they had embraced ; yet it was with the total neglect of that improvement of the country, which was seen in all the other parts where the Spaniards had settled. Thus these people, though Christians by profession, remain in that rusti- city and savageness natural to men who are out of the way of rational conversation and commerce to civilize them; an Indian only coming now and then from their woods with aji, achote, and fruits, to sell at Quito, where they seem struck with amazement at the sight of such a concourse of people at one place; it being indeed far beyond what could be imagined by such as seldom or never.came to any distance from their poor cottages, dispersed and shut up in the woods, and living among the wild beasts. THoucH 348 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. Tuoucs the country of Atacames lay thus neg- lected for some years after the introduction of the Christian religion, and its inhabitants had performed homage to the king of Spain; yet the importance of making settlements here, and cultivating the ground;, for facilitating the commerce betwixt the province of Quito and the kingdom of Terra Firma, was not un- known, as thereby an end would be put to the in- conveniences of carrying it on by the way of Guaya- quil; which being a great circuit, the trade suffered in many particulars; and indeed could not long have subsisted, without making a settlement of Spaniards in Atacames; as thus the way would be much shorter for the commerce betwixt Terra Firma and Quito, which now conveniently supplies it with provisions of" all kinds, and receives European goods in return. Pursvanr to these views, Paul Durango Delga- dillo was in the year 1621 appointed governor of Atacames and Rio de las Esmaraldas. He had some years before entered into a contract with the Marquis de Montes Claros for opening a way from the town of San Miguel de Ibarra to the river Santiago, one of those which traversed the country belonging to the jurisdiction of this government; and likewise to people and cultivate it. But failing of fulfilling the agreement, though be was not wanting in endeavours, the government in the year 1626 was teken from him and conferred on Francisco Perez Menacho, who however had no better success than he who had been displaced. AFTER these two, came Juan Vincencio Justiniani in the same character; but he, seeing the insuperable difficulties according to the methods of his prede- cessors, confidently offered to make the way by the river Mira, but also failed inthe execution; and Don Hernando de Soto Calderon, who began it in the year 1713, and rather more sanguine in his assurances of success than the former, also disappointed the general expecta. | Cu. Ul. SOUTH AMERICA. ae expectation ; and thus the so much desired commu- nication of the province of Quito and the kingdom of Terra Firma remained as it’ was till the year 1735, when Don Pedro Vicente Maldonado, being invested with the same powers as his predecessors, “surpassed | them in execution; and in 1741 laid open a direct communication betwixt Quito and the Rio de las Esmaraldas; and having verified his proceeding before the audiences, and obtained their approbation, he re- > turned to Spain, to solicit the confirmation of his em- ployment as governor, and the rewards specified in the contract. On the favourable report of the su- preme council of the Indies, his majesty, in 1746, confirmed him as governor of that country, which, in 1747, was formally erected into a government, by the commission then given to the above gentle- man, who by his skill and resolution had so well de- served it. THE towns within ihe government of Atacames are at present but small and poor, having hitherto lain out of the way of traffic, and the country but little cultivated. However, this governor takes such measures for the improvement of it, that already the face of things begins to alter greatly for the better; and the fertility of the soil will naturally invite set- tlers, and the communication being opened through it betwixt the kingdom of Terra Firma and the pro- vince of Quito, will cause a circulation of money. In the mean time this government contains 20 towns, five of which are on the sea-coast, and stand the first in the following list: the others are inland places. I. Tumáco, VI. Lachas. II. Tola. VII. Cay dpas. III. San MatheodeEsme- VIII. Inta. raldas. IX. Gualéa. IV. Atacames. X. Nanegal. V. La Canoa. XI. Tambillo. AM. Ni- 350 A VOYAGE TO + Book VI, XUL Nignas. | XVII. Cansa Coto. XI. Cachillacta. XVII. Santa Domingo. XIV. Mindo. XIX. San Miguel. XV. Yambe. XX. Nono. XVI. Cocaniguas. Tue inbabitants of the five towns are Spaniards, Mestizos, Negroes, and Casts, which sprung from these three species. Those of the other fifteen are in general Indians, having few Spaniards, Mulattos, or Negroes, among them. With the spiritual concerns asia priests ae invested, who continually reside in the great towns, and occasionally visit the others, where are chapels of ease. " Tur temperature of Atacames is like that of Guay- aquil, and accordingly produces the same kinds of ve- getables, grains, and fruits, though some of them toa much greater perfection; for, by lying higher, it is not subject to the inundations proceeding from the swell- ings of rivers: and thus the cacaco, in its plantations and forests, having all the moisture that plant delights in, without being drowned, is much superior to the other in size, oiliness, and delicacy of flavour. It like- wise produces in great abundance vanillas, achote, sarsaparilla, and indigo; also a great deal of wax is made here: and the forests are so thick set with trees of a surprising bulk and loftiness, as to be impene- trable ; and these trees, as in the forests of Guayaquil, are of an infinite variety; some fitter for land works, others for naval uses, and some excellent for both. CHAP, :: Cu, IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 351 oat One CHAP YTV: Mea y Description of the Governments of Quixos, and Macas; with an Account of Jean de Bracamoros, the Dis. covery and Conquest of it. / , EXT to the government of Popayan, which has been treated of in the foregoing chapter, follow those of Quixosand Macas, on the east side of the Cordillera of the Andes; it is divided into two districts, Quixos being the north part of the govern- ment, and Macas the south, with the country of Camelos lying betwixt them. As their situation and other circumstances require that each should be treat- ed distinctiy, I shall begin with Quixos, which on the north sidé borders on the jurisdiction of Popayan; eastward it reaches to the river Aguarico, and west- ward ts separated from the jurisdictions of Quito, La- tacunga, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, by the Cord:lleras of Cotopaxi and Cayamburo. The first discovery of the country of Quixos is owing to Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda, in the year 1536, who, among the officers sent from Popayan by Sebastian de Belalcazar, to trace the course of the river of Magda- lena, and take a survey of the country adj acent to that which had been conquered, was appointed to make discoveries in these parts, which he performed with great care and dispatch; and finding tt to abound in gold, and cassia trees, he returned to > his commander; and on his report, Gonzalo Pizaro, in the year 1539, at that time governor of Quito, marched to it with a design of reconnoitring its assay extent, and mak- ing settlements. But, his A, tniscarrying, the conquest of this country, though from Pineda’s report very desirable, was suspended till the year 1549, when the marquis de Canete, viceroy of Pero, gave a commission to Gil Ramirez Davalos, a man of undaunted \ —— ee ee eee Oe, eee ee 352- A VOYAGE TO Box Vi. undaunted courage when interest was in view, for reducing the Indians and making settlements in the country; which he accordingly accomplished, and founded the town of Baeza, the capital of the go- vernment, in the year 1559; and it was soon fol- lowed by other towns and villages, still existing ; but with very little improvement beyond their first state. Tue town of Baeza, though the most ancient of the country, and long the residence of the governors, has always remained very small, which is owing to the building of the two cities of Avilaand Archidona, still subsisting, and at that time the chief object of the attention of the settlers, Baeza being left as first built; and these, so far from having increased suitably to the title of cities, which was given them at their founda- tion, remain on their first footing. The cause of the low state of the places here is the nature of the coun- try, which, in air, fertility, and other enjoyments of life, being inferior to that of Quito, few settle here who can live in the other. Baezais indeed extreme- ly declined, consisting only of eight or nine thatched houses, with about twenty inhabitants of all ages, so that from the capital it is become annexed to the parish of Papallacta, in which town resides the priest, who has besides under his care another town called Maspu. Thisdecay was no more than a consequence of the removal of the governor, who of late has re- sided at Archidona. Tus city of Archidona is a small place, lying in one degree and a few minutes S. of the equinoctial, and about one degree 50 minutes E. of the meridian of Quito. The houses are of wood, covered with straw, and the whole number of its inhabitants is reckoned at betwixt 650 and 700, consisting of Spa- niards, Indians, Mestizos, and Mulattos; it has only one priest, under whose care are also three other towns, called Misagualli, Tena, and Napo; the last receives its name from the river on the borders of which it stands ; . Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 353 stands; and this situation proved its ruin on the 3oth of Nov. 1744, when, by the explosion of the Vol- cano, or Cotopaxi, of which a more particular ac- -eount shall be given in another place, this river be- came so swelled by the torrents of melted snow and ice, that it entirely bore down the town of Napo, and the houses were carried along by the impetuosity of the current. THE city of Avila, but very much below that title, stands on oo degr. 44 min. S. lat. and near 2 degr. 20 min. E. of Quito. It isso much less than the former, that its inhabitants scarce amount to 300 of both sexes. Its houses are built of the same materials. It has also a priest, whose ecclesiastical jurisdiction comprehends six towns, some of them in largeness and number of inhabitants not inferior to the city. These are, I. La Conception. IV. Motte. y II. Loreto. V. Cota Pini. III. San Salvador. VI. Santa Rosa. Tue foregoing towns constitute the chief part of this government; but it also includes the towns of the mission of Sucumbios, the chief of which is San Mi- guel, At the beginning of this century they were ten, but are now reduced to these five : I. San Diego de los Palmares. IJ. San Francisco de los Curiquaxes. III. San Joseph de los Abuccees. IV. San Christoval de los Yaguages. 'V. San Pedro de Alcantara de la Cocao, or Nariguera. The inhabitants of the two cities, and the villages in the dependencies, and those of Baeza, are obliged to be constantly upon their guard against the infidel Indians, who frequently commit depredations among their houses and plantations. They compose different Vou. I. 4 Aa and 354 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. and numerous nations; and are so dispersed all over the country, that every village is under continual ap- prehensions from those which live in its neighbour- hood: and when an action happens between the in- habitants and those Indians to the advantage of the former, all they get by it is to retura quietly to their dwellings w ith a few i a no booty being to be had froin a people who live without any settlement ; and from mere savageness make no account of those things in which the bulk of mankind place their bap- piness. ‘Their method in these incursions is, after an interval of apparent quiet and submission, to steal up to the Spanish settlements at a time when they have reason to conclude that the inhabitants are off their guard; and if their intent be answered, they fall to pillaging and plundering ; and, having got what is nearest at band, retire with all specd. This perpetual danger may also be reckoned among the causes which have hitherto kept the government in such low cir- cumstances. THe temperature of all this country is hot and very moist. The rains are almost continual ; so that the only dificrence betwixt it, Guayaquil, and Porto Bello, is, that the summer is vot so long: but the distempers and inconveniencies of the climate are the same. The country 15 covered with thick woods ; und in these are some trees ofa prodigious magni- | tude. Inthe south and west part of the jurisdiction | of Quixos is the canela or cinnamon-tree, which, asl have before observed, being discovered by Guana | Diaz, de Pineda, he from them called. the country Canelos, which name it still retains. A great quan- tity of it is cut for the necessary consumption, both in the province of Quito’and in Valles. Tbe qua-)j lity of this cinnamon does not comme up to that of the” Bast Indices ; but in every other particular very muchy resetnbles it; the smell, its circumference, and thick4 ness, being nearly the sane: the colour-is something) _browner,. Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA: 355 browner, the great difference lying in the taste, that of Quixos being more pungent,and without theexquisite flavour of that of the East Indies. The leaf is the same, and has all the delicate smell of the bark ; but the flower and seed surpass even those of India; the former particularly is of an incomparable fragrancy, from the abundance of aromatic parts it contains ; and this favours an opinion, that the trees duly culti- vated might be made in every respect equal to those of the island of Ceylon. Tue other products in the island of Quixos are the very same with those in all the other lands in the same climate as this government. ‘The like may be . said of fruits, roots, and grains, as wheat, barley, and others, which, requiring a cold air, seldom thrive much in any of an opposite quality. The other district of Macas is bounded on the east by the government of Maynas; southward by that of Bracamoros and Yaguarsongo; and westward, theeast Cordillera of the Andes divides it from the jurisdiction of Rio Bamba and Cuenca. Its chief town bears the splendid title of the city of Mucas, being the com- mon name given to the whole country. Aud this is better known than its proper ancient name of Sevilla del Oro. It lies in two degrees thirty minutes S. latitude, and for ty minutes E. of Quito. Its, houses, which do not exceed 130, are built of timber, and thatched. lts inhabitants are reckoned at about 12003 but these, and it is the same all over this district, are generally Mestizos with Spaniards, The other towns helonging to this jurisdiction are : T. San Miguel de Narbaes. V. Zuna. I]. Barahonas. VI. Payra. HI. Yuquipa. VII. Copueno. IV. Juan Lopez. VII. Aguayos. The spiritual government of them all is lodged in two priests; one of whom residing in the city has the Ada care 356 _A VOYAGE TO Book VI. care of the four first: and to the latter, who lives at “Zuna, belong that town and the three others. At the conquest, and for some time after, this country was very populous, and, in honour of the great riches drawn from its capital, was distinguished by the name of Sevilla del Oro; but at present only the memory of its former opulence remains. Such an extreme de- clension proceeded from an insurrection of the natives, who, after swearing allegiance to the king of Spain, took arms, and made themselves masters of the city of Logrono, cd a town called Guamboya, both in the same jurisdiction, and very rich. These devastations - have so discouraged any further settlement there, that the whole country lies as a waste; no money goes cur- rent in it, and the only way the wretched inhabitants have to provide themselves with necessaries is by bar- tering their home products. ThE nearness of Macas to the Cordillera of the Andes causes a sensible difference betwixt its tempe- rature and that of Quixos: for though it be also a woody country, the diversity betwixt the two most distant seasons of the year is manifest; and as its ter- ritory is different from that of the jurisdiction of Quito, so the variety in the periods of the season is also great. Thus winter begins here in April, and lasts till September, which is the time of summer be- wixt the Cordilleras : and at Macas the fine season is in September, and is the more delightful on ac= count of the winds which are then mostly northward; and thus charged with the frigorific particles which they have swept away from the. snowy mountains over which they have passed. ‘The atmosphere is clear’; the sky serene; the earth clothed in its various beau- ties; and the inhabitants, gladdened by such pleasing objects, rejoice that the horrors of winter are passed, as they are no less dreadful and detrimental here bag at Guayaquil. In grains and other products which require a hot and Cx.IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 357 and moist temperature, the country is very fruitful ; but one of the chief occupations of the country peo- ple here, is the culture of tobacco, which, being of an excellent kind, is exported in rolls all over Peru. Sugar-canes also thrive well here ; and consequently cotton. But the dread of the wild Indians, who have often ravaged their country, discourages them from planting any more than what just suffices for present use; they being here in the same unhappy situation as in Quixos, the villages having in their neighbour- hood bands of those savage Indians; and when they imagine them to be furthest off, are often suddenly assaulted by them, so that they must be ready at every instant to take arms. AMONG the infinite variety of trees which crowd the woods of this country, one of the most remarkable is the storax, the gum of which is of a most exquisite fragrancy ; but is rare, the trees growing in places at some distance from the villages ; and it is dange- rous going to them, by reason of the savage Indians, who lie in wait like wild beasts. The like may be said with regard to the mines of Polvos Azules, or Ultra-marine, from which, by reason of that danger, very little is brought; but a finer colour cannot be imagined, Tue territory belonging to. Macas also produces cinnamon trees, which, as the reverend Don Juan Joseph de Lozay Acuna, priest of Zuna, a person of eminent learning, and perfectly versed in natural history, told me, is of a superior quality to that of Ceylon, here known by the name of Spanish cinna- mon ; and this was confiraved to me by many other persons of judgment. This cinnamon visibly differs from that of Quixos, which, as the same person in- formed me, proceeds from the full exposure of the Maca trees to the sun, its rays nat being intercepted by cis foliage of any other trees near them ; and these Aas also 358 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI also are at a distance from the roots of other trees, which deprive them of part of the nourishment ne- cessary to bring it to perfection. And this opinion is confirmed by a cinnamon tree planted either acci- dentally or by design, near the city of Macas, the bark of which, and especially the blossom, in its taste, fragrancy and aromatic power, far exceeds that of the East Indies. GREAT quantities of copal are brought from Macas, also wild wax ; but the latter of little value, for, be- sides being reddish, it never indurates ; and the smell of it, when made into candles, and these lighted, is very strong and disagreeable ; and that of Guayaquil and Valles. no better. Indeed all the wax in those countries cannot come into competition with those of Europe; though it must be observed, that there is no small difference in the bee, which in this country is much larger, and its colour inclinable to black, However, it might be made something better, if the inhabitants were acquainted with the art of cleansing and working it as in Europe; and if it could not be brought to equal the European, a greater con- sistence might be given to it, which would be no small advant: age. THE government, which on the south limits the ju- risdiction of the audience of Quito, and follows next to Macas, is that of Jaen, which was discovered and subdued by Pedro de Vargara in the year 1538, whom Hernando Pizarro had appointed to command in that expedition. Afterwards Juan de Salinas entered the country, with the title of governor of it; and he having by his courage and courtesy reduced the Indians, and ingratiated himself with them, a more formal settle- ment was made, and several towns built, which are still existing, though in no better condition than those of Macas and Quixos. Some still retain the appel- lation of city, not that their largeness, number of in- habitants, Cu. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 359 habitants, or wealth, become the title, but on account of the privileges annexed to it. Ar the time of the conquest this government was known by the names of Igualsongo and Pacamoros, since corrupted into Yaguarsongo and Bracamoros; the names of the government conferred on Juan de Salinas. And thus they continued to be called for many years, till the Indians of both territories in a sudden revolt destroyed the principal towns. Those which were spared, after passing near an agein wretch- edness and barbarism, happily recovered themselves, became united to the city of Jaen, as part of a go- vernment, with the title of Jaen de Bracamoros; and the title of governor of Yaguarsongo was, as before related, kept up by being annexed to the corregidor of Loja. ThE town of Jaen, with the addition of Pacamoros, or Bracamoros, from the reunion of the towns of that country to it, was founded in the year 1549, by Diego Palomino. Itstands in the jurisdiction of Chaca-Inga, belonging to the province of Chuquimayo, and is the residence of the governor. It is situated on the north shore of the river Chinchipe, at its conflux into the Maranon. It lies in about five degrees 25 min. S. lat, and its long. may be conjectured to be very little distant from the meridian of Quito, if not under it. The account given of the mean condition of the cities of Macas and Quixos also suits Jaen. We must how- ever observe, that it is much more populous, its inha- bitants being, of all ages and sexes, computed at 3 or 4000; though these for the most part are Mes- tizos, with some Indians, but very few Spaniards. Juan de Salinas likewise found in his government of Yaguarsongo three other cities, still subsisting, but small, mean, and defenceless, like Jaen. Their names are Valladolid, Loyola, and Saniago de las Montagnas: the last borders on the government of Minas, and is Aa4 only 360 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. only separated from its capital, the city of Borja, by the Pongo de Manceriche. Inthis country of Jaen de Bracamoros are several small villages: T. San Joseph. VI. Chinchipe. II. Chito. VIT. Chyrinos. TIT. Sander. VIII. Pomaca. IV. Charape. IX. Tomepénda. V. Pucara. X. Chuchúnga. Tue inhabitants of which are mostly Indians, with some Mestizos, but no great number of either. ThoucH Jaen stands on the bank of the river Chinchipe, and so near the Maranon, yet the latter is not navigable up to it; so that those who are to embark on it go by land from Jaen to Chuchunga, a small place on another river of that name, and in 25 deg. 29 min. lat. whence they fall down into the Ma- ranon. This town, which may be accounted the port for Jaen, lies four days journey from the city, which is the method of calculating the distances here; the difficulties of the road increasing them far beyond what they are in reality, that not seldom that which on good ground might be travelled in an hour or two, takes up a half and sometimes a whole day. Tue climate of Jaen, and the same may be said of the whole jurisdiction of this government, is like that of Quixos, except that the rains are ncither so lasting nor violent; and, like that of Macas,.it enjoys some interval of summer; when the heats, tempests, and all the inconveniences of winter, abate. The soil is fruitful in all the grains and products agreeable to its temperature. The country is full of wild trees, par- ticularly the cacao, the fruit of which, besides the ex- uberance of it on all the trees, is equal to that cul- tivated in plantations; but is of little use here for want of consumption: and the carriage of it to distant parts would be attended with such charges, as to pre- judice Cu. IV. | SOUTH AMERICA. 361 judice its sale. Thus the fruits rot on the trees, or are eaten by monkeys or other creatures. Ar the time of its first discovery, and the succeed- ing conquest, this country was in great repute for its riches ; and not undeservedly, vast quantities of gold being brought from it. But these gains were soon brought to a period by the revolt of the In- dians, though in the opinion of many, who loek upon those people to be a part of the human species no less than themselves, the insurrection was owing to the excessive rigour of the Spaniards, in making them work in the mines under insupportable fatigues. At present, all the gold collected here is by Indians wash- ing the sands of the rivers during tbe time of the in- undations ; and thus find gold dust, or small grains of gold, with which they pay the tributes, and pur- chase necessaries ; and they make so little account of this metal, that, though by a proper industry they might get a considerable quantity, it is only the poorest Indians that live near the settlements who practise it : as for the independent Indians, they give themselves no concern about it. Tue jurisdiction of this government produces in particular vast quantities of tobacco ; the cultivation of it indeed is the chief occupation of all the inha- bitants. After steeping the plant in hot mead, or de- coctions of fragrant herbs, in order to improve its flavour, and the better to preserve its strength, it is dried, and tied upin the form of a saucisson, each of a hundred leaves. Thus it is exported into Peru, all over the province of Quito, and the kingdom of Chili, where no other is used for smoking, in cornets of paper, according to the custom of all these coun- tries. This great vogue it owes to the manner of pre- paring the leaves, which gives it a particular relish, and a strength to its smoke, that is very agreeable to those who are fond of that amusement. The country also produces a great deal of cotton ; likewise large : breeds 362 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. breeds of mules; and these three articles constitute the advantageous traffic which this government car- ries on with the jurisdiction of its province and the other parts of Peru. In the countries of Jaen de Bracamoros, Quixos, and Macas, are seen great numbers of those wild ani- mals, a description of which has been given in treat- ing of other countries of.a hike climate. But these, besides tigers, are infested with bastard lions, bears, — dantas or grand bestias (an ai il of the bigness of a bullock, and very swift, its colour generally white, and its skin very much valued for making buff lea- ther: in the middle of its head is a horn bending inward). Those three kinds of wild beasts are un- known in the other countries; and that they are known here, is owing to the proximity to the Cordil- leras, where they breed, as in a cold climate adapted to their nature: whence they sometimes come down into the neigbbouring countries; but without this circumstance of lying so near the mountains, they would never be seen. Among the reptiles in the country is the maca, a snake which the Indians di- stinguish by the name of curi-mullinvo, having a shining spotted skin like that of the tiger, curi in the Indian language signifying gold ; it 1s wholly cover- ed with scales, and makes a frightful appearance, its head being out of all proportion to the body, and ee two rows of teeth, and fangs like those of a large dog. Thewild Indians, as an ostentatious ‘mark of their intrepidity, and to give them a more terrible appearance, “paint on their targets figures of this snake, the bite of which is incurable ; and wherever it has scized, it never lets go its hold; which the In- dians would also intimate by their device. CHAP, Cu. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 363 CHAP. Y. Government of Maynas, and of the River Maranon, or that of the Amazons ; its Discovery, Course, and that of the Rivers running into it. WY AVING treated of the governments of Popayan and Jaen de Bracamoros, which are the nor- thern limits of the province of Quito; as also of Atacames, which is its western boundary ; I now pro- cead to the government of Maynas, the eastern limit of its jurisdiction. This is particularly entitled to a separaie and succinct description, as the great river Maranon flows through it. Tue governmentof Maynas liescontiguoustothose of Quixos and Jaen de Bracamoros, towards the east. In its territories are the sources of those rivers, which, after rapid}y traversing a vast extent, form, by thcir conflux, the famous river of the Amazons, known al- so by the nameof Maranon, The shores of this and many rivers which pay it the tribute of their waters, environ and pervade the government of Maynas. lis limits, both towards the north and south, are little Known, being extended far among the countrics of infidel Indians ; so that all the account which can be expected is from the missionaries employed in the conversion and spiritual government of the wild na- tions which inhabit it, Eastward it joins the posses. sions of the Portuguese, from which it is separated by _ the famous line of demarcation, the boundary between the Spanish and Portuguese possessions. Wexe I to confine myself in general to the extent of the government of Maynas, my description would be very imperiect, and want the noblest object of the reader’s curiosity, a description of the river of the Amazons; a subject no less entertaining than un: known; and the more difficult of obtaining a thorough know- ‘ 364 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. knowledge of, from its lying so very remote This description I shali divide into the three following heads, which shall contain its source, and the princi- pal rivers whereof 1t is composed ; its course through the vast tracts of land it waters ; its first discoveries, and the subsequent voyages made on it; in order to give an adequate idea of this prince of rivers ; and af the same time a more circumstantial account of the government of Maynas. ~ 1. Of the Source of the River Maranon, and of the many others which compose it. As, among the great number of roots by which nourishment is conveyed to a stately tree, it is diffi- cult from the great length of some, and the magni- tude of others, to determine precisely that from which the product is derived ; so the same perplexity occurs in discovering the spring of the river Maranon ; all the provinces of Peru as it were emulating each other in sending it supplies for its increase, together with many torrents which precipttate themselves from the Cordilleras, and, increased by the snow and ice, join to form a kind of sea of that which at first hardly de- serves the name of a river. Te sources by which this river is increased are so numerous, that very properly every one which issues out of the eastern Cordillera of the Andes, from the: government of Popayan, where the river Caqueta or Yupura has its source, to the province of Guanuco, within thirty leagues of Lima, may be reckoned among the number For all the streams that run east- ward from this chain of mountains, widening as they advance from the source by the conflux of others, form those mighty rivers, whichafterwards unite in the Maranon; and though some traverse a larger distance from their source, yet others, which rise nearer, by re-_ ceiving in their short course a greater number of brooks, > Cr. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 365 brooks, and consequently discharging a quantity of water, may have an equal claim to be called the prin- cipal source. But without confidently determining this intricate point, I shall first consider the sources of those which run into it from the more remote di- stances, and next those which precipitate themselves down several cascades formed by the crags of the Andes, and, after being augmented by others it re- ceives, join the Maranon in a more copious stream ; leaving it to the reader to determine which is the ori- ginal source. ‘THE most reccived opinion, concerning the re- motest source of the river Maranon, is that which places it in the jurisdiction of Tarma, issuing from the lake of Lauricocha, near the city of Guanuco, in 11 deg. S. lat. whence it directs its course S. almost to 12 deg. through the country belonging to this jurisdiction ; and, forming insensibly a circuit, flows eastward through ihe country of Juaxa; where, after being precipitated from the east side of the Cordillera of the Andes, proceeds northward; and, leaving the jurisdictions of Mayabamba and € hacha- poyas, it continues its course to the city of Jaen, the lat. of * which in the foregoing chapter has becn placed in 5 deg. 21 min. There, by asecond circuit, it runs to- ward the E. in a continual direction ; till at length it falls into the ocean, where its mouth is of such an enormous breadth, that it reaches from the equinoc- tial to beyond the first deg. of north lat. Its distance from Lauricocha lake to Jaen, its windings included, is about 200 leagues; and this city being 30 deg. to the W. of its mouth, is 600 leagues from it, which, with the several circuits and windings, may without excess be computed at goo such leagues : so that its whole course, from Lauricocha to its influx into the ocean, is at least 1100 leagues. Yer the branch which issues from Lauricocha is not the only one flowing from these parts into the Ma- ranon 5 366 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ranon ; nor is it the most southern river which dis- charges its waters into that of the Amazons; for S. of that lake, not far from Asangara, is the source of the river which passes through Guamanga. Also in the jurisdictions of Vilcas and Andaguaylas are two others, which, after running for some time separately, unite their streams, and discharge themselves into the river issuing from the lake Lauricocha. Another rises in the province of Chimbi-Vilcas. And lastly, one still further to the south, is the river Apurimac, which, directing its course to the northward, passes through the country of Cusco, not far from Lima- Tambo; and after being joined by others, falls into the Maranon about 120 leagués east of the junction of the latter with the river Santiago. — But here it is - of such a width and depth, as to leave a doubt whe- ther it insinuates ifself into the Maranon, or the Ma- ranon pays tribute to the Ucayale, as it 1s called in that part ; since at the conflux its impetuosity forces the mida to alter the straight direction of its course, and form a curve. Some will have the Ucayale to be the true Maranon, and found their opinion on the emoteness of its source, and the quantity of its waters, which equals at least, if it does not exceed, that of Lauricocha. In the space intercepted between thé junction of the Maranon and the river Santiago, are the’ Pongo: de Manzeriche, and the mouth of “the river Ucayale; and about mid-way betwixt them the river GuaNaga, which has also its source in the Cordilleras, east of the province of Guamanga, and falls into the Maranon, One of the rivers contributing to its increase has its rise in: the mountains of Moyo-Bamba ; and on its banks, in the middle of its course towards the Gual- Jaga, stands a small village called Llamas; which, ac- cording to the most credible accounts,-was the place where Pedro de Orsica embarked with his people on his ‘€u.V.. SOUTH AMERICA. . 367 his expedition for the discovery of the Maranon, and the conquest of the adjacent countries. EAsTWARD Of Ucayale, the Maranon receives the river Yabari, and afterwards four others, namely, the Yutay, Yurua, Tefe, and Coari; all running from the south, where they bave their source nearly in the same Cordilleras as that of the Ucayale ; but the countries through which the latter passes being inha- bited by wild Indians, and consequently but little known to the Spaniards, its course, till its junction with the Maranon, cannot be ascertained: and it is only from vague accounts of some Indians, that in certain months of the year it is navigable. There is indeed a tradition of voyages made up it, and by which it was perceived to run very near the provinces of, Peru. Beyonp the Rio Coari eastward, the Cuchibara, also called the Purus, joins the Maranon; and after that likewise the Madera, one of the largest rivers that unite their waters with it. In 1741, the Pottu- guese sailed up it, till they found dicartehnes not far from Santa Cruz de Ja Sierra, betwixt 17 and 18 deg. of south lat. From this river downwards, the Matas nonis known among the Portuguese by the name of the river of the Amazons: upwards they give it the name of the river of Solimocs. Within a small di- stance follows the river of Topayos, likewise very considerable ; and which has its source among the mines of Brazil. After these it is farther joined by the rivers Zingu, dos Bocas, Tocantines, and Moja, all i issuing fein the mines and sagas of Brazil ; and on the eastern shore of the latter stands the city of Gran Para. Havine thus given an account ofthe most distant branches of the stately river of Maranon, and of the principal ones which join it from the south, I pro- ceed to those, the sources of which are nearcr, issuing: from the Cordilleras, and which immediately run in» to 368 A VOYAGE TO Book VÍ. to the eastern direction ; and also those which join it from the north. . In the mountains and Cordilleras of Loja and Za- mora rise several little rivers, the conflux of which forms that of Santiago; and from these of Cuenga, others which unite in the Paute: but this, on its union with the former, loses its name, being absorb- ed by the Santiago, (so called from a city of that name) near which it joins the two others from Lau- ricocha and Apurimac. The river Morona issues from the lofty deserts of Sangay; and passing very near the city of Macas, runs in a S. E. course, till it loses itselfin the principal channel of the Maranon ; which happens at the distance of about 20 leagues E. of Borja, the capital of the government of May- nas. Ix the mountains of the jurisdiction of Riobamba, those of Latacunga, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, are the sources of the rivers Pastaza and Tigre; and from Cotopaxi and its Cordillera issue the first branches of the rivers Cocaand Napo. These, though their sources arc at no remarkable distance, run to a great extent before they join ; and retaining the name of Napo, fall into the Maranon, aftera course of above 200 leagues in a direct line from E. to W. with some, though insensible, inclinations to the S. This is the river which father Christopber de Acuna, who willbe mentioned hereafter, takes for the true Maranon, to which, as exceeding all the rest in largeness, the others may be said to add their waters. From the mountains of the jurisdiction of San Miguel de Ibarra, and those of Pasto, issues the river Putu-mayo, called also Ica, which, after ranning S.E. and E. about 300 leagues, joins the Maranon much more eastward than the river Napo: lastly, in the jurisdiction of Popayan, the river Caqueta has its origin, which becomes divided into two branches ; the western, called Yupura, disemboguesitself into the Maranon Cu. V, SOUTH AMERICA. 369 Maranon like another Nile, through seven or eight mouths, and these are at sucha distance, that the in- termediate space betwixt the first and the last is not less than 100 leagues; and the other, which runs to the eastward, is not less famous under the name of Negro. M. de la Condamine, in the narrative of his voyage, confirms the opinion of its being one of the communications betwixt the Oronoque and Ma- ranon; and corroborates his assertion, by the autho- rity of a map composed by father John Ferreira, rector of the college of Jesuits in the city of Gran Para; in which he observes, that in the year 1744 a flying camp of Portuguese, posted on the banks of the Negro, having embarked on that river, went up it, till they found themselves near the Spanish missions on the river Oronoque, and meeting with the su- perior of them, returned with him to the flying camp on the river Negro, without going astep by land; on which the author makes this remark, ‘That the river Caqueta, (already mentioned, and so called from a small place by which it passes, near its source ) issuing from Mocoa, a country joining eastward to Almaguar in the jurisdiction of Popayan, after running eastward with a small declension towards the south, divides it- self into two branches; one of which declining a lit- tle more southward, forms the river Yupura, and af- terwards separating into several arms, runs, as we have noted above, into the Maranon, through seven or eight mouths; and the other, after a course eastward, subdivides itself into two branches, one of which, run- ning north-east, joins the Oronoque; and the other, in a south-east direction, is the river Negro. This subdivision in the branches of large rivers, and their opposite courses, though something extraordinary, is not destitute of probability; for a river flowing through acountry every way level, may very naturally divide into two or more branches, in those parts where it meets with any inelination, though almost insensi- Voz. 1 Bo ble, x 370 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ble, in the ground. , If this. declivity be: not very great, and the river large and deep, it will easily be- come navigable every where, with a free passage from one arin into the other. And in this manner the marshes are formed in a level country, as we have particularly remarked in the coast of Tumbez: for the sea-water on the flood running into these various mouths, which sometimes are 20 leagues distant or more, a vessel enters one arm by the favour of the tide; but coming to a place where the soil rises, the stream runs against her, being the water which the same flood had impelled through another channel. Thus the ebb causes the waters to separate at that point; and each portion of water takes the same course at going out as at its entrance; yet the place where the separation is made is not left dry.» But even though the place where the waters of the river Ca- queta are separated should not be level, or nearly horizontal, but le on a considerable declivity ; yet if this fall be equal on both sides, one part of the waters may take its course to the Oronoque, and the other to the Negro, without any other consequence than that the ereat rapidity would render them impracti-- cable to navigation ; but this has nothing to do with the division of the waters, it being no mere than forming an island either large or small. From the province of Quito there are three ways to the river Maranon; but all extremely trouble- some and fatiguing, from the.nature. of the climate, and being full.of rocks, that a great part of the di- stance must.be travelled on foots for being so little frequented, no care bas becn telicól to mend them, whence they are even more dangerous than the others in South America, of which we have given a descrip- tion, Tue first of these roads, which is the nearest to the town of Quito, runs through Baza 4nd Archidona ; where you embark on the river Napo. ‘The second is Ont Vo.” SOUTH AMERICA. 371 is by Hambato:and Papate, at the foot of the moun- tain'ofs Tungaragua; and from thence the road lies through the country of Canelos, watered by the river ‘Bobonaza,which joining the Pastaza, both discharge themselves into the Maranon. The third lies through Cuenga,* Loja, Valladolid, and Jaen, from whence at the village of Chuchunga, which is as it were its port, thisriver becomes: navigable; and here all embark whovare either going to’ Manas, or a longer voyage on this river.’ Of the three, this alone is practicable to beasts; but the tediousness of the distance from Quito renders it the least frequented s for the mis- sionaries, who take these journeys oftener than an other set of men, in order to avoid its circuit, and “a danger of the pass of Manzeriche, preter the difficul- br and'dangers to the others. -Iy the long course of. this river from Chuchunga, are some parts where’the banks, contracting them. selves, form streights, which, from the rapidity of the waters, are dangerous to pass. | In others, by a suds den turn of its direction, the waters are violently car- ried against the rocks; and in their repercussion, form dangerous whirlpools, the apparent smoothness of which is no less dangerous than the rapidity in the streights. Among these, one of the most dangerous is that betwixt Santiago de las Montanas and Borja, called Pongo de Manzeriche; the first word of which signifies a door or entrance, and by the Indians is ap- plied to all narrow places ; the second is the name of the adjacent country. The Spaniards who have passed this streight make the breadth of it to be no more than twenty-five yards, and its length three leagues ; and that, without any other help than merely the current of the water, they were carried through it in a quarter of an hour. If this be true, they must move at the rate of twelve leagues an hour; a most astonishing velocity! But M. de la Condamine, who examined it with par- Bb 2 ticular 372 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ticular attention, and to whose judgment the greatest deference is due, is of opinion, that the breadth of the Pongo, even in its narrowest part, is twenty-five toises; and the length of the Pongo about two leagues, reckoning from the place where the shores begin to approach, as far as the city of Borga. And this distance he was carried in fifty-seven minutes. He observes also, that the wind was contrary ; andicon- sequently his balza did not go so far as the current would otherwise have carried her; so that, making allowance for this obstruction, the current may be stated at two leagues and a half or at three leagues an hour. j Tue breadth and depth of this river is answerable to its vast length; and in the pongos or streights, and other parts where its breadth is contracted, its depth is augmented proportionally. And hence many are deceived by the appearance of other rivers which join it, their breadth causing them to be taken for the real Maranon; but the mind is soon convinced of its error, by observing the little increase which the Maranon re- ceives from the influx of them. This large river, by continuing its course without any visible change in its breadth or rapidity, demonstrates that the others, though before the object of astonishment, are not com- parable with it. In other parts it displays its whole grandeur; dividing itself into several large branches, including a multitude of islands, particularly in. the intermediate space between the mouth of the Napo and that of the Coari, which lies something to the west- ward of the river Negro; where, dividing itself into many branches, it forms an infinite number of islands. Betwixt the mission of Peba, which is at present the last of the Spanish, and that of San Pablo the first of the Portuguese, M. de la Condamine, and Don Pedro Maldonado, having measured the breadth of some of these branches, found them nearly equal to nine hundred toises, that is, almost a sea Icague. su the | Cu. Y. © SOUTH AMERICA. 373 the influx of the river of Chuchunga, the place where the Maranon becomes navigable, and where M. de la Condamine first embarked on it, he found its breadth to be one hundred and thirty-five toises: and though this was near its beginning, the lead did not reach the bottom at twenty-eight toises, notwith- standing this sounding was made at a great distance: from the middle of the river. Tue islands formed by the Maranon east of the Napo, terminate at the river Coari, where it again re- nites its waters, and flows in one stream: but here its breadth is from one thousand to twelve hundred toises, or near half a league; and here the same in- genious gentleman, after taking all possible precau- ‘tions against the current, as he had before at the mouth of the river Chuchunga, sounded, but found no bottom with one hundred and three fathom of line. The river Negro, at the distance of two leagues from its mouth, measured twelve hundred toises in breadth, which being nearly equal to that of the principal river, and some of those we have named, Ucayale, the Madera, and others, were found to be nearly of the same width. | Axzour one hundred leagues below the mouth of the river Negro, the shores of the Maranon begin to approach each other near the efflux of the river Trumbetas, which part is called the Estrecho de Pauxis, where, as also at the posts of Peru, Curupa and Macapa, along its banks, and on these east of the rivers Negro and Popayos, the Portuguese have forts. At the Estrecho de Pauxis, where the breadth: of the river is near nine hundred toises, the effect of the tides may be perceived; though the distance from the sea-coasts be not less than two hundred leagues. This effect consists in the waters, which, withoutany change in the direction of their course, decrease in their velo- city, and gradually swell over their banks. The flux and reflux are constant every twelve hours, with Bb 3 the 374 A VOYAGE TO: Boox VI. the natural differences of time. But Mide la Con- damine, with bis usual accuracy, as may be seen in the narrative of his owm voyage, observed that the flux and reflux perceived in the ocean, on any certain day and hour, is different from that which is felt at the same day and hour, im the intermediate space be- tween the mouth of the river and Pauxis, bemg ra- ther the effect of the tides of the preceding: days; proportional to the distance of the) place. from the river’s mouth; for as the water of one tide’ cannot flow two hundred leagues within the twelve hours, it follows, that having produced its effect to a deter- mined distance during the space of one day, and re- newing it in the following by the 1mpulse of the suc- ceeding tides, it moves through that long space with the usual alternation in the hours of flood and ebb; and in several parts these hours coincide shi those of the flux and reflux of the ocean... Arter flowing through such a vast extent vilct: try, receiving the tribute of other rivers precipitated from the Cordilleras, or gliding in amore: gentle course from remote provinces; after forming many citcuits, cataracts, and streights; dividing: itself into: various branches, forming a multitude of islands of different magnitudes, the Maranon at lengthy from the mouth of the river Xingu, directs its course N. E. and enlarging its channel m a prodigious manner, as it were to facilitate its discharge into thesocean, forms in this astonishing space. several very large and fertile islands; of which tbe chief is that of Joanes or Ma- rayo, formed by a branch‘of the great river which se- parates: from it twenty-five: leagues below the mouth of the Xingu; and diréeting its course tothe south- ward, in a direction opposite to that of the principal stream, opens a communication” between the Mara. non and the river of Dos Bocas, which has before received the waters of the Guanapu and Pacayas, and flows intojt through a mouth of above two Jeagues in breadth. Cu. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 375 breadth. ‘These are afterwards joined by the river Tocantines; the outlet of which is still broader than the former, and at a still greater distance: the river of Muju, on the eastern side of which stands the city of Gran Para, discharges its waters into the same stream; and it afterwards receives the river Capi, which washes the city of the same nam Tue river of Dos Bocas, after joining that of Ta- gipuru, runs eastward, forming an arch as far as the river of Tocantines, from which it continues N. E. like the Maranon, leaving in the middle the island of Joanes, which is nearly ofa triangular figure, except the south side about-one hundred and fifty leagues in length, and forms the arch of a circle. This island divides the Maranon into the two mouths, by which that river disembogues itself into the sea. The prin- cipal of these two mouths from Cape Maguari in this island, and the North Cape, is about forty-five leagues broad; and that of the channel of Tagi- puru, as ése of the rivers which have joined it, from the same Cape Maguar: to Tigioca point, is twelve leagues. Tuis river, whichexceeds any one mentioned either in sacred or profane history, has three names ; and 1s equally known by them all, each implying its stu- pendous majesty, and importing its superiority to any other in Europe, Africa, or Asia. And this seems to have been intended by the singularity of its having three different names ; each of them enigmatically comprehending those of the most famous in the other three parts of the world ; the Danube in Europe, the Ganges in Asia, and the Nile in Africa. Tue nameswhichexpress the erahdeurof this river, are the Maranon, the Amazons, “and Orellana. But it is not known with certainty that cither of them was the original, before its discovery by the Spaniards, given it by the Indians; though very probably it was not without’ many ; for as various nations inhabited Bb4 its 376 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. its banks, it was natural for every one to call it by a particular name, or at least to make use of that which ~ had been previously given it. But either the first Spaniards who sailed on it neglected this inquiry, or the former names became corfounded with others given it since that epocha, so that now no vestiges of them remain, p THE general opinion prefers, in point of antiquity, that of Maranon, though some authors will have it posterior to the two others; but we conceive they are mistaken, both in their assertion, and in the cause of that name. They suppose that it was first given to this river by the Spaniards, who satled down it under the conduct of Pedro de Orsua, in 1560 or 15593 whereas it had been known by that name many years before : for Pedro Martyrin his Decades, speaking of the discovery of the coast of Brazil, in the year 1500, by Vincente Yanez Pinzon, relates, among other things, that theycame to a river called Maranon. This book was printed in the year 1516, long before Gon- zalo Pizarro undertook the discovery of the river, and conquest of the adjacent nations who inhabited its banks; or Francisco de Orellana had sailed on it. This demonstrates the antiquity of the name of Ma- ranon; bat leaves us under the same difficulties with yegard to its date and etymology. Some, following Augustine de Zarate, attribute the origin of this name to a Spanish commander called Maranan, from whom, as being the first that displayed the Spanish ensign on this river, it was thence called afier his own name, But this opinion is rather specious than solid; being founded only on the similarity of the names, a very exceptionable inference ; especially as no mention is made of any such officer in any history published of these discoveries and conquests ; whence it seems na- tural to conclude, that Zarate, on hearing that the river was called Maranon, inferred that the name was taken from some person of eminence who had made an > Cm.V. - SOUTH AMERICA. 377 an expedition on it. For had he known any thing further, he doubtless would have enriched his history. with some of the adventures of the discovery of it; for ifhe had not thought them sufficiently interesting, it is something strange that all the Spanish historians should be in the same way of thinking, and concur to suppress the memory of a Spaniard whose name was thought worthy to be given to the most distinguished river in the world. But what carries along with it a much greater air of probability is, that Vicente Ya- nez Pinzon, upon bis arrival in the river, heard it call. ed by the Indians who inhabited its islands. 49d banks, Maranon,or some name of asimilar sound; no Ai Vicente Yanez concluded that its name was Maranon. Hence it is undeniable, that, the preference in an- tiquity belongs to the name of Maranon ; and that this name was not given it by Orsua or his men, in allusion to some feuds and confusions among them, ealled in Spanish maranas, or from being bewildered among the great number of islands, foriving enma- ranado, or an intricate labyrinth of channels, accord ing to the opinion of some historians, Tue second name is that of the river of the Ama- zons, which was given it by Francisco Orellana, from the troops of women who made part of the body of Indians who opposed his passage; and who were not inferior either in courage or the dex- terous use of the bow, to the men ; so that, instead of landing where he intended, he was obliged to keep at a distance from the shore, and often in the middle of the channel, to be out of their reach, However on his return to Spain, and laying before the mini stry an account of his proceedings, and of the fr male warriors that opposed him, he was by pate: created governor of these parts, in recompense, : it was expressed, for his having subdued the Aina zons: and ever since the river has been called b that name. erry WY La 378 - A VOYAGE TO Boox VE, Some have indeed doubted, whether the Maranon and the Amazons were the same river; and many seem to be strongly persuaded, that they were really different. But this opinion proceeds only from the river’s not having been completely reconnoitred till the close of the last century. This particular of the Amazons i is confirmed by all writers, who have given a succinct account of the river, and Orellana’s expedition : and though this proof is abundantly sufficient, if not of its reality, at least of its probability, it is additionally confirm- ed by the tradition still subsisting among the natives, which we may believe on the authority of one of the most eminent geniuses the province of Quito ever produced; I mean Don Pedro Maldonado, who — was a native of the town of Riobamba, but lived at Quito, and whose performances are well known in the republic of letters. In 1743, this gentleman and M. de la Condamine agreed to return to Europe in company, by the way “of the river Maranon ; and among their other inquiries towards-a complete know: ledge of it, and the countries through which it flows, they did not forget the famous Amazons; and were informed by some old Indians, that it was an un- doubted truth, that there had formerly been several communities of women, who formed a kind of re- public, without adwitting any men into the govern- ment: and that one of these female states still sub- sisted; but had withdrawn from the banks of the river to a considerable distance up the country ; adding, that they had often seen some of these female war- riors in their country. M. de la Condamine, in the narrative of his voyage down this river, printed at Paris in the ycar 1745, and who had all the rational curiosity of his fellow-traveller Don Pedro Maldo. nado, relates some of the facts told him-by the In- dians, concerning the Amazons whom they had seen, But 1 shall only bere insert what bio torians have said on Cn. V. SOUTH AMERICA. * 379 on this head, leaving every one to give what degree of credit he pleases to the adventure of Orellana, and the actual existence of the Amazons. Somewhoare firmly persuaded of the truth of the adventure of the Amazons with Orellana, and be- lieve that their valour might be equal to that of the men, in defence of their country and families, will not hear of a female republic separated from the in- tercourse of men. They say, and not without suf- ficient reason, that the wemen who so gallantly op- posed Orellana were of the Yurimagua nation, at that _ time the most powerful tribe inhabiting the banks of the Maranon, and particularly ceiebrated for their courage. It is, therefore, say they, very natural to thiuk, that the women should, in some degree, inherit the general valour of their husbands, and join them in Opposing an invader, from whom they imagined they had every thing to fear, which might inflame their ardour; as likewise from an emulation of military glory, of which there are undeniable instances in the other parts of the Indies. Tue third and last name is that of the Orellana, deservedly given to itin honour of Francisco de Orel- lana, the first who sailed on it, surveyed a great part of it, and had several encounters with the Indians who lived in its islands or along its banks. Some have been at a great deal of pains to assign certain distances through its long course, and to appropriate to each of these one of the three names. ‘Thus they cal] Orellana all that space from the part where this officer sailed down in his armed ship till it joins the Maranon. The name of Amazons begins at the in- flux of another river, at the mouth of which Orellana met with a stout resistance from the women or Ama- zons; and this name reaches to the sea: and lastly, the name of Maranon comprehends the river from its source a considerable way beyond the Pongo down- wards 380 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. wards all along the part of the descent. of this river through Pero; alleging that this was the part through which Pedro de Orsua entered the river; supporting their opinion by a derivation, to which we cannot subscribe, namely, that he gave it this name on.ac- count of the disturbances which happened among his men, The truth is, that the Maranon, the Ama- zons, and the Orellana, are one individual river; and that what is meant by each of these names, is the vast common channel into which those many rivers fall, which contribute to its greatness. And that to the original name of Maranon the two others have been added for the causes already mentioned. ‘The Portuguese haye been the most strenuous supporters ef this opinion, calling it by no other name than that of the Amazons, and transferring that of Maranon to one of the captainships of Brazil, lying betwixt Grand Para and Siara ; and whose capital is the city of San Luis del Maranon, II. Account of the first Discoveries and of the most famous, Expeditions on the Maranon, in order to obtain a more adequate Idea of this famous River. Arrer tbis account of the course and names of this river, I shall proceed to the discovery of it, and the most remarkable voyages madethereon. Vicente Yanez Pinzon, one of those who had accompanied the admiral Don Christopher Columbus in his first voyage, was the person who discovered the mouth through which this river, as 1 have before taken no- tice, discharges ilselfintothe ocean. This adventurer, at his own expense, in 1499, fitted out four ships, dis- coveries being. the reigning taste of that time. With this view he steered for the Canary Islands; and after passing by those of Cape de Verd, continued his course directly west, till on the 26th of January, in 1€ Ct. Mon SOUTH AMERICA. 381 the year 1500, he had sight of land; and called it Cabo de Consolacion, having just w eathered'a' most violent storm. This promontory is now called Cabo de San Augustin. Here he landed; and, after taking a view of the country, coasted along it northward sometimes he lost sight of it, when on a sudden he found himself in a fresh-water sea, out of which he supplied himself with what he:wanted ; and being determined to trace it to'its source, he sailed upwards, and.came to the mouth of the river Maranon, where the islands made a most charming appearance. Here he staid some time, carrying on a friendly traffic with the Indians, who were courteous and humane to these strangers. He continued advancing up the river, new countries appearing still as he sailed further. To this maritime discovery succeeded that by land in the year 1540, under the conduct of Gonzalo Pizarro, who was commissioned for this enterprise by his brother the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro, onthe report which Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda had made of the country of La Canela, in the year 1536; at the same «time making him governor of Quito. Gonzalo Pizarro arrived at the country of Los Cane- los; and following the course of a river, either the Napo or Coca, it 18 not certain which, though more probably the first, met with unsurmountable difficulties and hardships ; and seeing himself destitute of pro- visions of every kind, and that his people, by feeding on the buds and vids of trees, snakes, and other crea- tures, wasted away one after another, he determined to build a vessel, in order to seek provisions at the place where this river joined another; the Indians having informed him that there he would mect witha great plenty. The command of this vessel he gave to Francisco de Orellana, his licutenant-general and confident, recommending to him all the diligence and punctual! ty which their extremit y required. Af ter 382 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ter sailing eighty leagues, Orellana arrived at tke junction of the two rivers, but met with nothing of what he had been sent for ; being disappointed in the provisions he sought, the trees not bearing any fruit, or the Indians having already gathered 1t. His re- turn to Pizarro seemed very difficult, if not impracs ticable, on account of the rapidity of the current ; besides, he could not think of returning, without bringing with bim that relief so earnestly expected ; so that, after Jong debating the matter with himself, he determined, without the privity of his compa- nions, to sail ene the current to the sea. But this could not long remain a secret, the hoisting the sails sufficiently demonstrating his intentions ; and some vehemently opposing such a desertion, as they called it, were near coming to blows. - But at len eth Orellana, by plausible reasons and magnificent promises, paci-. fied them ; and the opposition ceasing, he continued his voyage, after setting ashore Hernando Sanchez de Vargas to perish with hunger, as being the ring-leader of the! málecontents; ; and persisting in his ere against Oreilana’s project. Pizarro, surprised at having no adenidnt of Orel: lana, mar¢licd by land to the place where he had or- dered him, .and near it met with Hernando Sanchez de Vargas, who acquainted him with the whole af- fair of the vessel; at which Pizarro seeing him- self without resource, a considerable part of his men dead, the other so exhausted with fatigue and hun- ger that they dropt down as they marched, and those in the best state reduced to mere skeletons ; he determined to return to Quito, which, after fatigues and hardships even Arpa than the former, be at last reached with a handful of men in the year 1542, having only reconnoitred some rivers, and the ado jacent country; a service disproportionate to the loss of so many men, and the miseries suffered in this enterprise. This \ Cav: SOUTH AMERICA. 383 Turs was the first expedition of any consequence, to make discovery of the river Maranon: ‘and if the success of Pizarro was not equal to his force and zeal, he was at least the instrument of its being entirely ac- complished by another; and to his resolution in pressing forward through difficulties and dangers, and by his expedient of building the armed vessel, must, in some measure, be attributed the-happy event of Orellana’s voyage, who, with a constancy which showed him worthy of his general’s favour, recon: noitred the famous river of the Amazons through its whole extent, the adjacent country, its innumera- ble islands, and the multitude and ditference of na- tions inhabiting its banks. But this remarkable ex- pedition deserves a more particular detail. ORELLANA began to sail down the river in the year 1541 ; and in his progress through the several nations along its banks, entered into a friendly conference with many, having prevailed upon them to acknow- ledge the sovereignty of the kings of Spain formally, and with the consent of the caciques took possession of it. Others, not so docile, endeavoured to oppose, with a large fleet of canoes, his further navigation: and with these he had several sharp encounters. - In one Indian nation bravery was so general, that the wo- men fought with no less intrepidity than the men ; and by their dexterity showed that they were trained up to the exercise of arms. ‘This occasioned: Orel- lana to call them Amazons; which name also passed to the river. The scene of this action, according to Orellana’s own account, and the description of the place, is thought to have been at some distance below the junction of the Negro and Maranon. Thus he continued his voyage till the 26th of August, in the same year; when, having passed a prodigious number of islands, he saw himself in the ocean.” He now proceeded to the isle of Cubagua, or, according to others, to that of La Trinidad, with a design of go- ing 384 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ing to Spain, to solicit for a patent as governor of these countries. The distance he sailed on this river, according to his own computation, was eighteen hun- dred leagues. THis discovery was followed by another, but not so complete ; it was undertaken in the year 1559 or 1560, under Pedro de Orsua, by commission from the marquis de Cancte, viceroy at Peru, who at the same time conferred on him the title of governor of all his conquests. But the first news of Orsua was, that he and the greatest part of his men were killed in an ambuscade by the Indians; a catastrophe entirely ow- ing to his own ill conduct, which destroyed the great armament made for this enterprise, and created an aversion to designs liable to such dangers. In the year 1602, the reverend Raphael Ferrer, a Jesuit, having undertaken the mission of Cofanes, fell - down the Maranon, and attentively survey edthecoun- try as far as the conflux of the two rivers where Orel- Jana had left Hernando Sanchez de Vargas; and at his return to Quito gave a very circumstantial account of what he had seen, and the different nations he had discovered. ANOTHER, but fortuitous, view of the river was taken in 1616. Twenty Spanish soldiers, quartered in Santiago de las Montanas, in the province of Yaguar- songo, pursued a company of Indians, who, after murdering some of their countrymen in the city, fled up the country, and embarked on the Maranon in their canoes. The soldiers, in falling down the river, came to the nation of the Maynas, whoreceived them in a friendly manner; and after some discourse showed a disposition of submitting to the king of Spain, and desired missionaries might be sent them. ‘The sol- diers, on their return to Santiago, having made a re- . port of the good inclination of the Maynas, and their desire of being instructed in the Christian religion, an account was sent to the prince of Esquiloche, viceroy of Cu. Y. SOUTH AMERICA. 386 of Peru: and in 1618, Don Diego Baca de Vega was appointed governor of Maynas and Maranon; and may be said to have been in reality the first, as neither Pizarro, Orellana, nor Orsua, though invested with the title, were ever in possession of it, having made no absolute conquests; a necessary circumstance to- wards realizing the title. This expedition was performed in 1635 and 1686, and was succeeded by that of two Franciscans, with others of the same order, who set out from Quito with a determined zeal for propagating Christianity among the nations onthe Maranon. But many of them, unable to support themselves under the fatigues and hard- ships natural in such a country, and discouraged with the little fruit their good desires produced, after wan- dering among mountains, woods, and deserts, re- turned to Quito, leaving only two, Dominico de Brieda and Andrew de Toledo, both lay-brothers. These, either froma religious zeal, or naturally more brave and hardy, or of greater curiosity, ventured to penetrate further into those dreary wastes. They were indeed attended by six soldiers, remaining of a whole - company who had been sent, under captain Juan de Palacio, for the safeguard of the missionaries; but so many of them had returned with the religious to Quito, that these six and the captain were all that remained : aud that officer, a few days after, lost his life in an action against the Indians. THE six soldiers and two lay-brothers, however, continued with undaunted resolution totravel through countries inhabited by savages, unknown, and full of precipices on all sides; at length they committed themselves to the stream, in a kind of launch; and after many fatigues, hardships, and here and there a rencounter, 1eached the city of Para, at that time de- pendent on, or united with, the captainship of the Maranon, the governor of which resided at San Louis, Vork si. Cc whither 386 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. whither they went, and gave him anaccount of what they had observed m this navigation. Ar that time the crown of Portugal was annexed to Spain; and the governor of the captainship, or Maranon, for the sovereign of both kinedoms, was Jacome Rey mundo de Nor ona, who, zealous for the improvement of this discovery, as of the highest im- portance to his prince, fitted out a fleet of canoes, un- der the command of captain Texera, to go up the river, and survey the country with greater rform and accuracy. ‘This flotilla departed from the neighbour- hood of Para, on the 28th of October, 1637, with the two religious on board ; and after an incessant fa- tigue in making way against the stream, they arrived at aban 1no on the 94th of June, 1638. This place belongs to the Jurisdiction of the government of Aus ; whence Texera, with the soldiers and the two religious, went to Quite, where he gave an ac- count of the expedition to the audiencia, which trans- mitted the particulars to the count de Chinchon, vice- roy of Peru; and he, agreeably to the zeal he had always manifested. for enlarging his majesty’s domi- nions, held a council about ‘making more: particular discoveries along the shores of that river. Amowne other things, the count de Chinchon gave orders, that the Portuguese flotilla should return to Para; and with it sent some intelligent persons, whose zeal might be depended on, with orders to take an accurate survey of the river and its banks; and after discharging this commission, to proceed to Spain, and makea report of their expedition to the council of the Indies, in order to be laid betore his majesty, that - measures might in consequence be taken for securing the conquest of these nations. The persons chosen were, the Reverend Fathers Christopher de Aceuna and Andrezde Artieda, Jesuits, and persons every way equal to the service. They left Quito on the 16th of February, 1639; and having embarked with the ar- mane Cr... Y. SOUTH AMERICA. 387 madilla, aftera voyage of ten months, they arrived at Gran Para on the 12th of December, whence, accord- ing to their instructions, they passed over to Spain, and completely acquitted themselves of the trust re- posed in them. Ar the end of the last century, another expedition was undertaken, for making discoveries on the Ma- ranon ; but at that time it was already so well known, that most of the adjacent lands had been improved by the missions which the Jesuits had settled there: and thé government of Manas now includes many nations, who, on the fervent preaching of the Jesuits, having embraced Christianity, vowed obedience tothe kings of Spain; and a happy alteration was seen in their morals and customs. ‘The banks of this river, where before only wild Indians were seen living in the manner of beasts, were now turned into plantations and regular towns, the inhabitants of which shewed that they were not destitute of reason and humanity. ‘These improvements were in a great measure owing to Father Samuel Fritz, who, in 1686, preached the Gospel among those people, and in a short time was the instrument of the conversion of many nations : but the continual fatigues and hardships, both by land and water, affected his health to such a degree, that he was obliged to set out for Para in January 1689, and arrived there on the 11th of September of the same year. Here he remained in a disagreeable inactivity, till his health was restored, and some affairs settled which required instructions from the court of Lisbon. Juzy the 8th, 1691, Father Fritz left Para, in order to return to his mission, which then reached from the mouth of the river Napo tosome distance beyond the Negro, and included the Omaguas, Yurimaguas, Aysuares, and many other adjacent nations, the most ‘numerous of the whole river. October the 13th, in the same year, he returned to the town of Nuestra Ses Gre 2 | nora 388. A VOYAGE TO Bodie wi nora de las Nieves, the capital of the Yurimagua na- tion; and having visited the rest under his charge, to the number of forty-one, all large and populous, he went, on other public affairs, to the town of Laguna, the capital of all the missions on the Maranon, where the superior resided ; and afterwards repaired to the city of Lima, inorder to communicate to the count de Moncloa, at that time viceroy, a full account of all those countries. This last journey he undertook by the way of the rivers Guallaga, Patanapura, Moyo- bamba, Chachapoyas, , Caxamarca, ‘Truxillo, and Lima. Tue affairs which brought this indefatigable mis- sionary to Lima, where he was received with great honour, being finished ; Father Fritz, in August 1693, set out, on his return to his missions, by the way of the city of Jaen de Bracamoros, with a view of re- connoitring the course and situation of the rivers which, from those southern parts, fall into the Ma- ranon. By the help of these additional lights, he drew a map of that river, which was engraved at Quito, in the year 1707: aud though it bad not all the accu- racy which could be desired, the father being without instruments forobserving the latitudes and longitudes of the chief places, taking the course of the rivers, and détermining the distances; yet it was received with very great applause, as being the only one in which were laid down the source and direction of all the rivers which join the Maranon, and the whole course of the latter till its junction with the ocean. III. Account of the Conquest, Missions, and Nations, established on the Maranon. Tue discovery of this famous river, and the survey of the adjacent countries and nations,-was followed by the conquest of the nations who inhabited its banks and Cn. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 389 and islands. The miscarriage of the expedition un- der Gonzalo Pizarro has already been mentioned : Orellana was not more fortunate ; when, pursuant to the grant of che government, he returned to settle in it; and Orsua’s fate was still more deplorable, pe- rishing himself, with the greatest part of his fol- lowers. But we are now to speak of the more suc- cessful enterprize of Don Diego Baca de Vega, whom we have already mentioned, but in a cursory manner. ThE government of Maynas, and the Maranon, having been conferred on De Vega; confident of the ‘good dispositions of the Maynas Indians, as it had been carefully cultivated, since its first commencement with the Santiago soldiers, he entered the country with a little colony, and founded the city of San Francisco de Borga, in 1634, as the capital of the whole go- vernment ; a title which it justly deserved, for being the first erected in that vast country ; and also on ac- count of the friendship which the Indians had shewn for the Spaniards ever since their first arrival. ‘The new governor being a person of judgement and pene- tration, was not long in observing that these nations were rather to be governed by moderation and gentle- ness, with a proper firmness to create respect, than by rigour or austerity : and accordingly informed the au- diencia of Quito and the Jesuits of their disposition. Missionaries were accordingly sent them, in the per- sons of Gaspar de Cuxia and Lucas de Cuebas, who came to Maynas in the year 1637; and their preach- ing had such remarkable success, that, being not of themselves sufficient for instructing the multitudes of new converts, they sent to Quito for assistance : and thus the number of missions continually increased, and whole nations resorted from their forests in search of the light of the Gospel. By this means the king’s dominions were extended, every proselyte with joy ac- knowledging himself in his new state a subject of the Cas king 890 .ANOVAGETOO? Boos VE king of "Spain, as he owed to his bounty the 'nastá mable felicity of his conversion. Tuus the missions and the number of towns in- creased together, and the propagation of the Christian religion inthose remote countries, and the aggrandise- ment of the Spanish monarchy, went hand ‘in hand. But the most distinguished era of these progressions was the year 1686, by the zealandactivity of Father Fritz, whom we have had occasion before to mention with honour: he went directly among the nation of the Omaguas, who having by the Cocamas Indians been informed of the nildness and. wisdom. with which the missionaries taught them to live under just and wholesome laws, and a police hitherto unknown among them; together with the many happy effects it had produced in those nations which had conformed to their instructions ; animated with these pleasing relations, they sent, in 1681, a deputation to the town of Laguna, belonging to Cocamas, where Father Lo- renzo Lucero, superior of the missions, resided, en- treating him to send among them persons for their ‘instruction: but the father at that time was not ina capacity of complying with their request, all the mis- sionaries being employed elsewhere. He therefore dismissed them, with commending their good. inten- tions ; promising them, that le would send to Quito for a proper. person to instruct them in those salutary doctrines embraced by the other nations. Tue Omaguas, full of anxiety, did not give Fa ther Lorenzo “Lucero time to neglect his promise; for, on hearing that new missionaries, and. among them Father Samuel! F ritz, were just arrived at Lag una from Quito, the same deputation-returned to request the immediate performance of the promise; and ha- ving the greatest reason to expect it would be com- plied with, great part of the people came in canoes to the town of Laguna, as atestimony of respect to Father Fritz, in or de to conduct him to their country, W hate Cu. Y. SOUTH AMERICA. ~ 391: where they treated him with such veneration, that in’ his progress through the towns they would not suffer him to walk, but carried:him on their shoulders ; an honour which the caciques reserved to themselves alone. The effects of his preaching were answerable tothese marks of ardour and esteem, so'that ina short time the whole nation was brought to a serious pro- fession of Christianity, deploring their former igno- rance and brutality, and forming themselves into a olitical community, under laws calculated for the ftps of society. And their example so influenced several other adjacent nations, that the Yurimaguas, Asuares, Banomas, and others, unanimously: and vo- luntarily came and addressed themselves to Father Fritz, desiring him to instruct them how to live in the same order and regularity as the OÓmaguas. Thus whole nations, on embracing Christianity, submitted to the sovereignty of the Spanish monarchs: and all - the countries from the Napoto a considerable distance below the Negro, were: reduced without the least force throughout the whole extent of the government of Maynas: and such, at the end of the last century, was the number of the.nations thus conver ted, that Father Fritz, though without indulging himself in any respite, was" not able to visit ev ery single town and village within the compass of a year, exclusiv ely of the nations under the care of other missiónaries, as those of the Maynas, Xebaros, Cocamas; Panos, Cha- micuros, Aguanos, Muniches, Otanabes, ‘Roamaynas, Gaes, and many more. The other’ missions were in the same flourishing condition. Tue city of San Franciseo de Borja, which we have already mentioned as the capital of Maynas, stands in A deg. 28min. S. lat. and 1 deg. 54 min. E. of the meridian of Quito: but of its lareeness and appear- ance we can only add, that it resembles the cities of the government of dais and its caps though consisting of Mestizos and indians, and the place is Cc4 the 392 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI, the residence of the governor of Maynes and Mara- non: yet they are not equal in number to those of Jaen de Bracamaros. The principal town of the mis- sions, and in which the superior is obliged to reside, is Santiago de la Laguna, lying on the eastern bank of the river Guallaga. The places which at present compose those missions inthe government of piece and diocese of Quito, are: On the River Napo. 1. San Bartholome de Necoya. II. San Pedra de Aguarico. III. San Estanislao de Aguatico. IV. San Luis Gonzaga. V. Santa Cruz. VI. El Nombre de Jesus. VII, San Pablo de Guajoya. VIII. El Nombre de Maria. IX. San Xavier de Icaguates. X. San Juan Bautista delos Encabellados, XI. La Reyna de los Angeles, XII. San Xavier de Urarines. On the River Maranon, or Amazons, Y. La Ciudad de San Francisco de Borja. II. La Certaon, or inland country towards St, Teresa. III. San Ignacio de Maynas. IV. San Andres del Alto. V. Santo Thomas Apostol de Andoas. VI, Simigaes. VII. San Joseph de Pinches, VIII. La Concepcion de Cagua-panes. IX. La Presentacion de Chayabitas. X. La Incarnacion de Paranapuras. XI. La Conception de Xebaros, XIT. San Cn. Y, SOUTH AMERICA, 393 XII. San Antonio de la Laguna, XIII. San Xavier de Chamicuro. XIV. San Antonio Adad de Aguanos. XV. Nuestra Senora de las Neves de Y urimaguas. XVI. San Antonio de Padua. XVII. San Joaquin de la Grande Omagua. XVIII. San Pablo Apostol de Napeanos. XIX. San Phelipe de Amaonas. XX. San Simon de Nahuapo. XXI San Francisco Regis de Yamcos. XXII. San Ignacio de Bevas ’y Caumares. XXIIL Nuestra Senora de las Nieves. XXIV. San Francisco Regis del Baradero. BesIDeEs these towns, which have existed for some time, there are several others yetin theirinfancy ; and the Indians, by whom they are inhabited, of different nations from those above mentioned: likewise many others, both large and populous ; some on the banks of the rivers which fall into the Maranon, and others up the country. Many of the inhabitants of both nations hold a friendly intercourse with the Spanish Missionaries, and with the inhabitants of the Christian villages, with whom they traffic, as well as with the Spaniards and Mestizos, settled at Borja and Laguna. All these nations of Indians have some resemblance in their customs; but in their languages very different, every one seeming to have a particular dialect, though there are some of a nearer affinity than others to the general language of Peru. ‘The most difficult to be pronounced is that of the Yameos Indians: while, on the other hand, none is so easy and agreeable to the ear as that of the Omaguas: and the genius and tem- pers of these two nations were found to be as different as theirlanguage. ‘Thus the Omaguas, even before their submission, gave many surprizing proofs of the clearness of their intellects; but were surpassed by the Yurimaguas, both jn wit and penetration. The . former 894 "A VOYAGE TO Book VI: former lived in villages under some kind of govern- ment, peacefully obeying their curacas or chiets. They were less barbarous; their manners less turbu- lent and corrupt than those of most other Indians. The Yurimaguas formed a kind of republic; and had some laws which were strictly observed, and the breach of them punished in an exemplary manner. But in police the preference doubtless belongs to the Omaguas: for, besides living in society, there was an appearance of decency among them, their nudi- ties being covered, which by others were totally ne- elecied, This disposition in those two nations for making approaches, however small,:to civil customs and arational life, notalittle contributed to thespeeuy progress of their conversion. They were more easily convinced, from the light of nature, of the truth and propriety of the doctrines preached by the missiona- ries; and were convinced, that happiness, both pub- lic and private, was intimately connected with an uniform observance of such precepts, mstead of the innumerabie evils resulting from the manner of living hitherto preached by them. | Amoxc the variety of singular customs prevailing in these nations, one cannot help being surprized at the odd taste of the Omaguas, a people otherwise so sensible, who, to render their children what they call beautiful, flat the fore and hind parts of the head), which gives them a monstrous appearance; for the forehead grows upwards in proportion as it is flatted 5 so that the distance from the rising of the nose, to the beginning of the. hair, exceeds that from the lower part of the nose to the bottom of the chin 4 and the same is observable in the back part of the head. ‘The sides also are very narrow, from a natural conse- ‘queace of the pressure; as thus the parts pressed, in- stead of spreading, conformably to the common course of nature, grows upwards. ‘This practice 15 of great antiquity among thém; and kept up so strictly, that they Cu. Y. SOUTH AMERICA. - 395 they make a jest of other nations, calling them cala- bash'heads.: >: ; Íx order to give children thisbeautiful flatness, the upper part of the head 15 put, soon after the birth, betwixt two pieces of board ; and repeated, from time to time, till they have brought it to tne fashionable form. ANOTHER nation of these Indians, affecting a stri- king appearance, make severalholes in both their up- per and underdips, both sides of the cartilage of their nose, their chins, and jaws: and in these they stick fine feathers, or little arrows, eight or nineinches long. The reader’s own imagination will sufficiently paint the strange appearance they must make with these de- corations. Others place a great beauty in long ears; and accordingly extend them by art to such a degree, that in some the inferior lobe touches the shoulder : and they value themselves on the nickname of long ears, which has been given them in ridicule. The method they make use of to extend their ears, is this: they bore a hole in the lobe, aud fasten to it a small weight, which they from time to time increase, till the ear is stretched to nearly the length above-men- tioned : and as the lobe increases in length, so likewise does it im magnitude. Others paint some parts of their bodies; some the whole. All have something peculiar in their modes and customs, but generally of such a nature, that Europeans wonder how they could ever enter the thoughts of rational creatures *. Arter describing this great river, and giving an account of the villages and nations near its banks, I shall proceed to some other particularities relating to it; as the extraordinary species of fish found in its «waters, and likewise the birdsand other animals seen in the adjacent countries through which it flows. Among * Another remarkable custom is, that of their tying their privities in a bladder before they go into the water, A. = the 396 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. the various kinds of fish, are two of an amphibious nature; the caymans or alligators, and the tortoise, which swarm on the shores and islands. Its tortoises, for taste, are preferred to those of the sea. Another remarkable fish here is the pexe-buey, or sea-cow, so called from its resembling the land quadruped of that name. ‘This is one of the largest species known in the river, being generally three or four yards in length, and of a proportional thickness: the flesh is very palateable, and, according to some, has pretty much the taste of beef. It feeds on the herbage growing along the shore, but the structure of its body does not admit of its coming out of the water. The female has dugs for suckling its young; and what- ever some may have said of any farther resemblance to the terrestrial species of that name, it has neither horns nor legs. It has indeed two fins, which serve equally for swimming, and supporting itself on the banks whilst feeding. ‘The general method of the Indians for fishing, is with inebriating herbs, like that I have mentioned on the river Guayaquil. On some occasions they make use of arrows dipped in poison, of such an activity, that the slightest wound im- mediately kills the tish. This is also their method of hunting; and in both they are so very expert and active, that they are very seldom known to miss their aim. This powerful venom is principally the juice of a bejuco, near six fingers broad, and flat on both sides, of a brownish colour, and growing in very damp marshy places. Jn order to prepare the poison, they cut it into pieces, which they bruise and boil in water. On taking it off the fire, they add to it a particular ingredient which causes a coagulation. With this they rub the point of their arrows; and when dry, for want of fresh unction, they moisten it with their spittle: the quality of it is so frigorific, that it im- mediately repels all the blood to the heart, where the vessels burst, being unable to contain such a torrent as y Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 397 as suddenly rushes into them. But what is most sur- prizing here, is, that the creature thus killed, and its coagulated blood, are eaten without any incon- veniency. The most powerful antidote to this ve- nom is, immediately to eat sugar: but this specific, though often salutary, is not infallible, as several melancholy instances haye demonstrated. Tue borders and parts adjacent to this famous ri- ver, as well as those contiguous to the others which discharge their waters into it, abound with large and lofty trees, the wood of which is of different colours ; some white, others of a dark brown; some red, or veined with variety of colours. Some of another species distil balsams of an exquisite fragrancy, or rare and medicinal gums; others are noted for their delicious and salubrious fruits. Among these the wild cacoa, by the mere goodness of the soil, with- out any culture, grows in the greatest plenty, and yields fruit of a goodness equal to that in the jurisdiction of Jean and Quixos. Here also are gathered great quantities of sarsaparilla, vanillas, and a bark called declavo or cloves: for though it resembles cinnamon in appearance, except its colour which is something darker, its taste and smell are very different, being nearly the same with that of the East-India clove. As to quadrupeds, birds, reptiles, and insects, they are nearly the same, and in as great numbers as those already mentioned in the description of other hot countries. One reptile of a very extraordinary na- ture, and known only here and in the provinces of New Spain, I shall, as a conclusion of my account of the Maranon, add a description of. Iw the countries watered by: that vast river, is bred a serpent of a frightful magnitude, and most delete- rious nature, Some, in order to give an idea of its largeness, affirm that it will swallow any beast whole; and that this has been the miserable end of many a man. But what seems still a greater wonder, is the attractive 398 A VOYAGE TO . Boox VI. attractive quality attributed to its breath, which-ir- resistibly draws any creature to it, which happens to be within the sphere of its attraction: but this, I must own, seems to surpass all belief. The Indians call it-jacumama, 1. e. mother of water: for as it de- lights in lakes and marshy places, it may in some sense be considered as amphibious. I have taken a great deal of pains to enquire into this particular ; and all I can say is, that the reptile’s magnitude is really surprizing. Some persons whose veracity is not to be questioned, and who have seen it in the pro- vinces of New Spain, agreed in their account of the enormous corpulency of this serpent, but with re- gard to its attractive quality could say nothing de- cisive*, y SusPENDING therefore for the present all positive judgement, without giving entire credit to all the qualities vulgarly attributed to this animal, especially the more suspected, as not improbably flowing from astonishment, which frequently adopts absurdities, it being impossible, in so great a perturbation, to con- sult reason ; let me be indulged with some variation of * T have seen three of these serpents killed; out of the body of one of them was taken a hog about 10 stone in weight. The largest was about 11 feet long, and 23 inches in circumference; the smallest about 9 feet long, am] 19 in cirenmference. They ge- nerally lie coiled up, and wait til their prey passes near enough to be seized. As they are not easily distinguished from the large rot- ten wood (which lies about in plenty in these parts), they have op- portunities enough to seize their prey and satiate their hunger. The Indians watch this opportunity, and when they have half gorged their prey, kill them without danger. As I was walking in the woods one day, attended by two Indians and a Negro boy, we were within 10 yards of one of these serpents, when the Negro cried out, Cobra, Senhor! Cobra, Senhor! on which it made away into a neighbouring thicket, which concealed from our sight the most hideous creature I at that time had ever seeh. In its motion, which was slow and peculiar_to that serpent, it appeared like a serpentine log, with two bright gems for eyes, placed within three or four in- ches from the end which was farthest from us, Trom which rays of azure lizht seemed to dart. A. the CH. Moo: SOUTH AMERICA. 399 the accidents, toinvestigatethe cause, in order to come at the knowledge of its properties, whichit is difficult to ascertain, unless supported by undoubted experiments. Not that I would offer my opinion as a decisive rule; I desire that the judgement of others may declare for that which appears most conformabie to truth. 1 would also further acquaint the reader, that I only speak from the testimony of those who have seen this famous serpent, having never myself had an oppor- tunity of examining it with my own eyes. Firsr, itissaid, that this serpent, in the length and thickness of its body, very much resembles the trunk of an old tree, whose roots have for some time ceased to convey the usual nourishment; and that on every part of it grows a kind of moss like that seen on the bark of wild trees., This 1s accounted for by the dust and mud adhering to it; and alternately moisteued and dried by the water and sun. This forms a shieht crust over the thick scales; and this crust is increased by the sluggishness and slow motion of the serpent 3 which, unless when forced by hunger to go in quest of food, continues motionless in one place for several _days together; and even then its motion is almost imperceptible, leaving a track like that of a log of timber drawn along the ground. Irs breath isasserted to be of such a nature as to cause a kind of drunkenness or stupidity in man or beast, which has the misfortune of being within the bounds of its activity; and thus causes the animal involun- tarily to move tillit unhappily comes within the reach of the serpent, which immediately swallows it. This is the vulgar report: and it is added, that the only ‘method of: averting the danger, ison ost feeling the breath to cut it, that is, to stop itby the interposition of another body, which hastily intervening, cuts the current of the blast and dissipates it. Thus the per- son, who was moving on to certain destruction, is enabled to take another path, and avoid the fatal ca- tastrophe. , ¢ 400 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. tastrophe. These particulars, if thoroughly consi- dered, seem mere fables: as indeed the learned M. de la Condamine intimates; and the very circum- stances with which they are decorated, increase their improbability. Bur, in my opinion, with a little alteration in the circumstances, what seems to shock credibility, will appear natural and founded on truth. ThHar its breath is of such a quality as to pro- duce a kind of inebriation in those whom it reaches, is far from being impossible; the urine of the fox is well known to have the same effect ; and the breath of the whale is frequently attended with such an in- supportable foetor as to bring on a disorder in the brain. I therefore see no manner of difficulty in ad- - mitting that the breath of this serpent may be of that intoxicating quality attributed to it; and may be con- sidered as an expedient for catching its prey, as other- wise the creature, from the slow movement of its body, would be utterly incapable of providing itself with food; whereas, by this deleterious smell, the animal may be throwninto such horror and perplexity, as to be unable to move, but remain fixed like a. statue, or faintaway, whilst the snake gradually ap- proaches and seizes it. As to what is related of cut- ting the breath, and that the danger is limited to the direction i in which the serpent breathes these are tales, which to believe, would imply an utter igno- rance of the origin and progress of odours. In short, the vulgar errors, propagated by these rude nations, have gained credit among the Spaniards, merely be- cause none has had the curiosity or resolution to put them to the test of experience. CHAP,. Caw VA, SOUTH AMERICA. 401 CHAP. VI. Of the Genius, Customs, and Manners of the Indians who are Natives of the Province of Quito. pte subject of this chapter, and its circum- stances, are of such a nature, that, if what an- cient histories deliver concerning them should recur to the memory, they will appear totally different. Indeed the disproportion between what I read, and what I am going to relate, is so remarkable, that, on a retrospect towards past times, Iam utterly at a loss to account for the universal change of things ; espe- cially when surrounded by such visible monuments of the industry, polity, and laws of the Indians of Peru, that it would be madness to question the truth of the accounts that have been given of them; for the ruins of these ancient works are still amazing. On the other hand, I can hardly eredit my own eyes, when I behold that nation involved as it were in Cimmerian darkness, rude, indocile, and living in a barbarism little better than those who have theirdwelling among the wastes, precipices, and forests.. But what is still. more difficult to conceive is, how these people, whose former wisdom is conspicuous in the equity of their laws, and! the establishment of a government so sin- gular as that under which they live, should at present shew no traces of that genius and capacity which formed so excellent an economy, and so beautiful a system of social duties: though undoubtedly they are the same people, and still retain some of their an- cient customs and manners. Leaving therefore this intricate subject to be investigated by farther enqui- ries, I shall proceed to give an account of the pre- sent Indians, their genius, customs, and qualities, ac- cording to the best information i,could obtain from a commerce with those people of all ranks, during ten Voz, L | Dd years. 402 "A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. years. Some particulars in this narrative will de- monstrate that they still retain a few sparks of the in- dustry and capacity of the ancient Indians of Peru; whilst others will shew that they are utterly destitute of the knowledgeof certain sciences which were com- mon among their ancestors; and thatthey are equally degenerated from their wisdom in making laws, and their regular observance of them. Ir is no easy task to exhibit a true picture of the customs and inclinations of the Indians, and precisely display their genius and real turn of mind; for if considered as part of the human species, the nar- row Hh of their understanding seem to clash with the dignity of the soul; and such is their stupidity, that in certain particulars one can scarce forbear en- tertaming an idea that they are really beasts, and even destitute of that instinct we observe in the brute crea- tion. While in other respects, a more comprehensive judgement, better-digested schemes, and conducted with greater subtilty, are not to be found than among these | people. This disparity may mislead the most discerniug person : for should he form his judgement from their first actions, he must necessarily conclude them to be a people of the greatest penetration and vivacity. But when he reflects on their rudeness, the absurdity of their opinions, and their beastly manner of living, his ideas must take a different turn, and represent them in a degree little above brutes. Sucu is the disposition of the Indians, that if their indifference to temporal things did not extend itself also to the eternal, they mig ht be said to equal the happiness of the solden age, of which the ancient poets have given such inchanting descriptions. They possess a tranquillity immutable, either by fortunate or unfortunate events. In their mean apparel they are as contented as'the monarch clothed’ with the most splendid inventions of luxury ; and so far are they from entertaining a desire for better-or: more com- Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 403 comfortable clothing, that they give themselves no manner of concern about lengthening their own, though half their bodies continue naked, They shew the like disregard for riches; and even that authority or grandeur within their reach is so little the object of their ambition, that to all appearance it is the same thing to an Indian, whether he be created an alcalde, or forced to perform the office of a common execu- tioner. rs _ Anp thus reciprocal esteem among them is neither heightened nor lessened by such circumstances. The same moderation appears in their food, never desiring more than what suffices ; and they enjoy their coarse simple diet with the same complacency as others do their well-furnished tables. Nor do I indeed question but if they had their choice of either, they would pre- fer the latter ; but at the same time they shew so little concern for the enjoyinents of life, as nearly ap- proaches to a total contempt of them: in short, the most simple, mean, and easiest preparation seems best adapted to their humour. : NotHING can move them, or alter their minds; even interest here loses all its power; it being com- mon for them to decline doing some little act of ser- vice, though offered a very considerable reward. Fear cannotstimulate, respect induce, norpunishment com- pel them. ‘They are indeed of a very singular turn ; proof against every attempt to rouse them from their natural indolence, in which they seem to look dewn with contempt on the wisest of mortals: so firmly bigoted to their own gross ignorance, that the wisest méasures to improve their understanding have been rendered abortive; so fond of their simplicity and in- dolence, that all the efforts and attention of the most vigilant have miscarried. But in order to give a clearer idea of their tempers, we shall relate some particular instances of their genius and customs; as e ie ‘ other- ‘ 304 A VOYAGE TO Boox. VE. otherwise it will be impossible to draw their true cha- acter | Tue Indians are in general remarkably slow, but very persevering; and this has given rise to a pro- verb, when any thing of tittle value in itself re- quires a great deal of time and patience, “that it is “only fit to be done by an Indian.’ In weaving car- pets, curtains, quilts, and other stuffs, being unac- guainted with any better method, at passing the woof they have the patience every timeto countthe threads “one by one; so that two or three years is requisite to finish a single piece. This slowness undoubtedly is not entirely to be attributed to the genius of the Nation ; it flows, in some measure, from the want of a method better adapted to dispatch. And perhaps with proper instructions they would make conside- rable progresses, as they readily comprehend whatever is shewn them relating to mechanicks: of this the antiquities still remaining, in the province of Quito, and over all Peru, are undeniable testimonies. But of these more will be said in the sequel. ‘This in- difference and dilatoriness of the Indians is blended with sloth, its natural companion ; and their sloth 1s of such a nature, that neither their own interest, nor their duty to their masters, can prevail on them to undertake any work, Whatever therefore is of absd- lute necessity to be done, the care of it is left to the Indian women. These spin, and make the half shirts and drawers, which constitute the whole apparel of their husbands. They cook the matalotage, or food, universally used among them; they grind the barley, for machea, roast the maize forthe camcha, and brew the chicha; in the mean time, unless the master has been fortunate enough to get the better of the hus- band’s sloth, and taken him. to work, he sits squatting on his hams (being the usual posture of all the In- dias), and looks on his wife while she is doing the necessary work of the family ; but, unless to drinks, ie Cu. VI SOUTH AMERICA. 405 he never moyes from the fire- side, t till obliged to come to table, or wait on his acquaintance. The only do» mestic service, they do, is to plough their chacarita, or littlespot of land, in order to its being sown ; ‘but the latter, together with the rest of the culture, makes another part, which, is, also, done by the. wife and children. When they are once settled in, the above posture, no reward can make them stir 5 so that if a traveller has lost his way, and happens to come to any of these cottages, they: hide themselves, and charge their wives to say that they are not at home; when fhe whole labour consists in accompanying the tra- weller a quarter of a league, or perhaps, less, to put hum in his way: and for this small service, he would getiarial, orhalfa rial at least, Should the passenger alight and-enter the cottage, the Indian would still be: safe; for, having no light but what comes througha hole! in ‘the desta he could not be discovered: aid even if he should see the Indian, neither entreaties nor offers would prevail on the slothful wretch to stir aistep. withhim. And it is the same if they are to be employed im any, other business. -Jwar the Indians may perform the works appointed by: their masters, and for which they are properly paid, it will be of little signification to shew them thew task ; the master must have his eye continually upon ena for whenever he turns hisback, the Indian immediately leaves off working. The only thing in which theyshew. a lively sensation and alacrity, is s for parties of pleasure, rejoicings, entertainments, and especially dancings. But in all these the liquor must circulate briskly, “which-seems to be their supreme en- joyment. With this they begin.the day, and continue damking till they are: entirely: gyms ed both, of sense, and motion. > dagiadT , Sucu is their pagel to intemperance,,. that they, are not restrained by, any; dignity of character; the cacique and. the alcalde never day to be of the com, Dd3 ; pany, 406 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. pany, at all entertainments; and drink like the rest, till the chicha has quite overcome them. It is worth notice, that the Indian women, whether maids or mar- ried, and also the young men before they are of an age to contract matrimony, entirely abstain from this vice; it being a maxim among them, that drunkenness is only the privilege of masters of families, as being per- sons who, when they are unable to take care of them- selves, have others to take care of them. THEIR manner of celebrating any solemnity i is too singular to be omitted : the person who gives the en- ter A invites all his acquaintance, and provides chicha sufficient for the number of his guests, at the rate of a jug for each; and this jug holds about two gallons. In the court of the house, if it bea large town, or before the cottage, if ina village, a table is placed and covered with a tucuyo carpet, only used on such festivities. The eatables consist wholly of camcha, and some wild herbs boiled. When the guests meet, one or two leaves of these herbs, with ten or twelve grains of camcha, finish the repast. Im- mediately the women present themselves with cala- ¿bashésor round totumos, called pilches, full of chicha, for their husbands ; anid répeat it till their spirits are raised ? then one of them plays on a pipe and tabor, whilst’ others dance, as they call it, though it is no more than moving confusedly from one side to the other, without measure or order. Some of the best voices among the Indian women sing in their own language.’ Thus their mirth continues while kept up by the liquor, which, as T have said before, is the soul of all theirmeetings. Another odd circumstance is, that those who ‘do not dance, squat themselves down in their usual posture, till it comes to their turn. The table serves only for state, there being nothing on it to'eat, nor do the guests sit down at it. | When tired with intemperance, “they all lie down together, with- ‘out minding whether near the wife of another, or their own Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 407 own sister, daughter, or a more distant relation ; so shocking are the excesses to which they give them- selves upon these solemnities, which are sometimes continued three or fourdays, till the priests find them- selves obliged to go in person, throw away all the chicha,. and disperse the Indians, lest they should buy more. Tue day after the festival is called concho, which signifies the day for drinking off the remains of the preceding: with these they begin; and if not suffi- cient to complete their revel, every one of the guests runs home to his house, and fetches a jug, or they club for more.” “This occasions a new concho for the next day: and thus, if left to themselves, from day to day, till either no more chicha is to be had, or _ they left without money or credit. Tuer burials are likewise solemnized with exces- sive drinking. The house of mourning is filled with . jugs of chicha; and notfor the solace of the mourners and their visitors alone; the latter go out into the streets, and invite all of their nation who happen to pass by, whether married or single of both sexes, to come in and drink to the honour of the deceased ; and to this invitation they will take no denial, The ceremony lasts four or five days, and sometimes more, strong liquor being their supreme wish, and the great object of all their labours, Ir the Indians are thus excessively addicted to in- temperance, gaming is a fault with which they can- not be charged; though these two vices are generally seen together. They seem to have no manner of in- elination for play ; nor have they above one kind, and that of great antiquity among them; this they call pasa, 1. e. a hundred, as he wins who first gets that number. They play at it with two instruments ; one a spread eagle of wood with ten holes on each side, : being tens; and are marked with pegs, to denote every man’s gettings: the other is a bone in the man- Dd4 nei y 408 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. ner of a die, cut with seven faces; one of which has a particular mark, and is called guayro. The other five tell according to the number of them; and the last is a blank. ‘The way of playing is only to toss up the bone; and the marks on the upper surface are so many got. But the guayro goes for ten ; and the like number is lost if the blank side appears. "Though this game is peculiar to the Indians, 1t'is very little used except at their revels, THE common food of the Indians, ‘as before oh served, is maize made into camcha or mote, and machca; the manner of preparing the latter is, to roast the grain, and then reduce it toaflour; ‘and this without any other apparatus or ingredient, they eat by spoonfuls; two or three of which, and a draught of chicha, or, whenthat is wanting, of water, completes their repast. When they set ‘out ona journey, their whole viaticdm is a little + bag, which they call gucri- ta, full of this'meal; and a spoon. And this suffices for a journey of’ fitty or a hundred leagues. - When hungry, or fatigued, they stop ‘at some “place where Enea is to be” had, or at some water ; where, after taking a spoonful of their ‘eal into their mouth, they Keep 1t Some time, 10 order: the more easily to swallow it; and with two'or three such spoonfuls, well ditured with chicha, or, if that is not'to be had, with water, they sct forward as cheer fully as 1f risen from a feast. Tue£1r habitations, as may be imagined, are very small; consisting of a little cottage, in the’ middle of which is thei fite- place. Here both they and the animals they breed, live promiscuously. They have. a particular fondness Pelt dogs; and never are without three or four little curs in their hut: a hog or two, a little poultry, and cuyes, with some earthen ware, as pots, and jugs, and the cotton which their wives spin, constitute the whole inventory of an Indian’s effeets. Their beds consist of two or three sheep- skins, Cr. VIL SOUTH AMERICA. ‘409 ‘skins, without pillows or any thing élses and’6n these ‘they sleep in their usual squatting posture: ánd'as Pics never úndress, appear always in the same garb. “Toven the Indian women breed fowl and’ other “domestic animals in their cottages, they never eat them: and éven conceive such a fondness for them that they will not even sell them, much less kill them ‘With their own hands; so that.fa stranger, who ‘ts ‘obliged to pass the night'in one of their cottages, of- fers ever so much money for 4 fowl, they refuse to part with it, and he finds himself under the necessity ‘of killing the fowl himself. At this hislandlad y shrieks, dissolves in tears, and wrings her-hands, as if it had been an only son ; till, seeing the mischief past reme- dy, she wipes her eyes, and A yo pe takes what the ‘traveller offers her. - Mawy of them in their journeys take their whole family with them; the women carrying on their ‘shoulders such children as are unable to walk ~~ “The cottages in the mean time are shut up; and there being no furniture to lose, a string, or thong of iea- ther, serves for a lock : their animals, if the journey is to last for several days, they carry to the cottage of some neighbour or acquaintance : ifotherwise, their curs are left euardians of the whole; and these dis: charge their “trust with such care, that they will fly at any one, except their niasters, ‘who offers to come near the cottage. And hereitis worth observing, that dogs bred by Spaniards and’ Mestizos have such a hatred to the Indians, that, if one of them approaches a house where he is not very well known, they fall upon him, and, if not called off, tear him to pieces : on the other hand, the dogs of Indian breed are animated with the same rage against the Spaniards = Mestizos ; and, like the former, scent them at a distance. Tue Indians, “except those*brought up in cities or towns, speak no language but their own, called | Quichua, 410 - A VOYAGE TO» Boox VE Quichua, which was established by the yneas, with an order for its being propagated all over the vast empire, that all their subjects might be able to un- derstand each other; and therefore was distinguished by the name of the Yncas language. Some under- stand the Spanish, and speak it ; yet very few have the good-nature to auswer init, though they know at the same time, that the person. with whom they are con- versing cannot understand them in Quichua. Nor is if of any consequence to desire and press them to explain themselves in Spanish, for this they absolute- ly refuse: whereas it is quite otherwise with the In- dians born and bred, in the towns; for, if spoken to in theirown language, they are sure to answer in the Spanish, ... posi Se | | rr SUPERSTITION is general among them; aud they all, more or less, pretend. to fortune-telling. This weakness is also of along standing among them; and which neither the. remonstrances of the priests, nor their own experience, can radically cure. Thus they employ artifices, supposed charms, and strange com- positions, m order.to obtam some visionary happi- ness for the success of a favourite scheme, or other weighty,concern. In these prestiges their minds are so infatuated, that, to bring them to:a sight of the foliy and wickedness of such practices, and solidly to embrace the Christian religion, is a workof the greatest ditiiculty. And even when they have embraced it, are so superficial and fickle, that, 1f they, attend divine service ou Sundays and holidays, /itiis.merely from tear of punishment; for otherwise there: would be scarce one Indian, especially of the meaner sort, among the whole congregativn. + Pertiment to tlis, I shall relate, among many other instances, the follow- ing story, told me by a priest. An Indian had, for some time, absented himself from the service of the church; and the priest being informed that it was owing to his drinking early in the morning, on the following, Cu. Vi SOUTH AMERICA. 411 following Sunday, when he had been particularly or- dered to make his appearance, charged him with his fault, and directed that he should receive some lashes, the usual punishment of such delinquents, be their age or sex what it will, and perhaps the best adapted to their stupidity, After undergoing the punishment, he turned about to the priest, and thanked him for having chastised him according to his deserts; to which the priest replied, with some words of exhor- tation to him, and the audience in general, that they would never omit any duty of Christianity. But he had no sooner done, than the poor Indian stepped up to him, and desired that he would order him a like number of lashes for the next Sunday, having made an appointment for a drinking match, so that he should not be present. This may seryeas a specimen of the little impression made on them,notwithstanding all the assiduity of the missionaries ; and that though continually instructed, from the first dawnings of reason till the day of their death, they are found to continue in a strange ignorance of the most essential points of religion. Their indifference here is so very deplorable, that they may be said to give themselves no more concern about their souls than about their bodies : and though 1 with pleasure allow, that there are many who, in the culture of their minds, sanctity of manners, and delicacy of conscience, equal the most wiseand circumspect; yet the bulk of them, ei- ther by that gross ignorance which clouds their intel- lects, and renders them insensible of their eternal con- cerns, or their natural depravity, are hardened against religious exhortations. Forthough they readily grant every thing that is said to them, and never offer to make the least objection ; yet they secretly harbour suspicions of some evil design, and leave room for mental reservations, which spoil all... I am little in- clined to lay any false charge to this or any nation, and especially with regard to such an important sub- Q JUCE > 412 ‘A'VOYAGE'TO Boox VIL Jept, and in confirmation of what I: have said, shall relate some further particulars.. E of > sieht Every Sunday in the year, the doctrinal priests in* struct their parish in the ‘articles of Christianity with indetatigable zeal: also, when.any Indian issick, they never fail to visit and exhort him tor prepare fora comfortable passage into eternity, adding: whatever they judge may corduce to the opening the eyes of his understatiding ; pathetically expatiating rom the justice and mérey of God,-the nature of deatly ithe certainty: of anv approachioe judgement, condal pre- sent danger. After speaking thus a considerablertime, without'a word frow the patient, or the least sign of emotion if his countenance, the good! mam proceeds to remind hit of his sins, ‘and exhorts! hinrtoiasincere repentancé, and to implore the mercy ofshtis@reator ; as, otherwise, 'his:soul wilb be punished: toall eternity. The Indian at‘length answers with a serene fainthess; “So it‘will’be, + fathiér £70 meaning, that things wall happen: as het has «predicted'; but does mot under: stand in’ whht'these threatened: ‘sufferings: consist, I have often ‘heard. priests: of those'towhs, land men of’ parts! atid learning,” talles with gteatldeoncern on this ‘subject. Hence it? is: that theres are very few Indians to" whom ‘the! holy leucharisesis adn nistered : “nor Would those of: the house, wherewsick person lies, ever give notic@ot iv tol the priest; were they not afraid’ of the punishinentwhi¢hsthe daw mn these cases inflicts : aud even aslit ispthey/ often: nes elect this dut¥, and the patieri tatids without receiving the sacramento 07 0 rangos demdea viodi ro, Iw their thafriages, they run counter! teenie inents of albhations, ésteeming what others detest > a virgin beine never the object of theirsechoice for they Took on it as‘ sue: sign, that she! whoidias not been known “to Es can have’ mothings kines about her. 0.2: el At Vb TER ka ue - Arver Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 413 AFTER a young man has asked the object of his affections of her father, and obtained his consent, they immediately begin to live together as man and wife, and assist the father-in-law in “cultivating his chacara. ‘At the end of three or four months, and often of a year, he leaves his bride, without ceremony, and per- haps for the wild reason above-mentioned: and even expostulates with the father-in-law, that he should endeavour to deceive him, by imposing upon him his daughter, whom nobody else had thought worthy of making his bedfellow. But if nothing of this happens, ‘after passing three or four months in this commerce, which they call Amanarse, 1. e. to habi- tuate one’s self, they then marry : and this custom is still very common, having hitherto proved too strong for the joint, endeav ours of the whole body of the clerey to extirpate. Accordingly, the first question at the ceremony of marriage is, whether they are amannados, in order to absolve them of that sin be- fore they receive the nuptial benediction. ‘They look upon no marriage to be legal which is not solemn, and according to them the whole consistsin thenuptial benediction, which must be giventhem at the time they join their hands, as otherwise, on any caprice, they separate: and it is to no purpose to go about to per- suade them that they were married ; nor will any punishment have the least effect. For as it does not imply any infamy, the intention ‘is lost, It is the same thing with them to be exposed to the publie derision and insults, as to be ordered to shew their skill in dancing on a festival; the thing which, ofall others, they most delight in. They are indeed sensible of corporal punishmeuts during the time they are inflict- ing, but immediately afterw ards areas placid and easy as if they had not been touched. ‘This occasions many things to be connived at in them, and other means of prevention used. Ie 414 A VOYAGE TO Boox Vi Ir is not uncommon among them to change their wives, without any other preliminary or agreement, than having been familiar with the wife of another. The former wife, together with the injured husband, concerta revenge; and if reproached for such a pro- ceeding, they cheerfully answer, that they had served them only as they deserved ; and it avails little to ses parate them, as they soon find means to return to the same manner of living. Incests are very com- mon among them, both as the consequence of their monstrous drunkenness, already mentioned, and from their making no distinction between honour and in- famy, whereby their brital appetites are under no restraint. Ir the foregoing tempersor customs appear strange, their behaviour at confession is not less so: for, besides having but a slender acquaintance with the Spanish language, they have no form to direct them in it. On their coming to the confessor, which is always at his summons, he is obliged to instruct them in what they are going about, and with them repeat the Con- jiteor from one end to the other. For if he stops, the Indian also remaius silent. Having gone through this, it is not enough for the priest to ask him, whe- ther he has committed this or that fault; but if it be one of the common sort, he must affirm that he has committed it, otherwise the Indian would deny every | thing. The priest further is obliged to tell him, that he well knows he has committed the sin, and he has proofs of it. Then the Indian, being thus pressed, an- swers, with great astonishment, that it is so; and, imagining the priest really endued with some super- natural knowledge, adds circumstances which had not been asked him. It is not only difficult to bring them to declare’their faults, but even to keep them from denying them, though publicly committed, and equal- ly so to prevail on them to determine the number; this being only to be obtained by finesses; and then little Ch VI“! SOUTH AMERICA. 415 little stress is tobe laid on what they say. The na- tural dread, which more or less rises in: all men at the approach of death, is what the Indians are less suscep- tible of than any other people. - Their contempt of those evils which make the strongest impressions on the minds of men, is such, that they view the approach of death without peturbation : and the pain of the distemper affects them more than the danger of it, This I have often heard from several of the priests : and their words are confirmed by daily instances. For when the priests perform the last offices to dying per- sons, their answers are delivered with that composure and serenity, as leave no doubt but the inward state of their mind corresponds with these external ap- pearances, being the principal and cause of them. ‘The like iseven seen in those whom their crimes have brought to die by the hands of justice; and among many other examples, 1 happened myself to be an eye-witness of one. Whilst 1 was at Quito, two male- factors were to be executed ; one a Mestizo or Mu- latto, and the other an Undlisive both ,having been brought into the prison-chapel, I went to see them the night before the execution. The former was at- tended by several priests, who, in Spanish, exhorted him to die like a Christian, and shew a becoming fervour in his love to God, faith, and contrition, anda. detestation for the crimes he had committed. On which, his aspect and whole deportment shewed a sense of his condition. The Indian had also ec- clesiastics about him,. performing, in his own lan- guage, the like kind offices. But to all appearance he was less concerned even than those about him, and seemed rather to be tilling a chacura, or tending a herd, than on the eve of eternity. His appetite was so far from leaving him, as was the case of his com- panion, that he was more eager, and, after dispatching his own, would have cleared his fellow-sufferer’s plate; so that they were obliged to use some force to prevent 416 . ALVOYAGE TO” Boox VI. prevent his eating to excess on such an exigency. He talked to the spectators with that ease and tranquillity, as if only going to take a short journey. He an- swered to the pros tations without the least confusion: when he was ordered to kneel, he did so. The prayers and acts of devotion he ‘also repeated word for word; but all the time rolling his eyes about, likea shantale child, whose weak age is diverted by trifling objects. Thus he behaved till brought to the eibbet, where his companion had been carried before him : nor did he shew the least alteration even in the awful moment. And this, to a civilized European so strange, is no more than what 1s common among the Indians of these parts. Tuts indifterence with regard to death, or intrepi- dity, if we may term it so, tale itself upon many other occasions, ' par ticularly i in the alacrity and re- solution? with which. they: face themselves before a bull, with no other view? than forthe bull to run full at him, and toss ‘him so high in the air, that any other than an Indian would be killed by the fall. He however rises without receiving any hurt, and is highly delighted with the victory, as he calls it, over the bull; thoug h the victory seems to lie on the bull's side. When they fight in a body against others, they fall on, without any “regard to superiority of numbers, or who drops, or is wounded of their party. An action which in a civilized nation is counted the height of courage, is here merely the effect of bar- barism and want of thought. They are very dex- trous in baltering a bull at full speed; and, as they fear no danger, attack him with what we should call great temerity. With the same dexterity they hunt bears: and asingle Indian, with only a horse and-his noose, never fails of getting the better of all the cun- ning and rage of this furious animal. «This noose is made of cow- hide, so thin as not:to be"seizcd by the. beast’s paws, and.yeb-so'strong as-not.to be broken by Cm. VI. — SOUTH AMERICA. 417 by the struggles of the creature. On perceiving the bear, they immediately make towards him, whilst he sets up in order to seize the horse. But the Indian being come within a proper distance, throws the noose about the creature’s neck : then, with surprizing celerity having taken two or three turns with the other énd about the saddle, claps spurs to his horse : in the mean time the bear, unable to keep pace with the horse, and struggling to clear himself of the noose, is choaked. This is considered as an achievement of admirable dexterity and bravery ; and may be fre- quently seen in the province of Alausi, near the eastern Cordillera, where these animals abound. > A GREAT part of the rusticity in the minds ofthe . Indians must be imputed to the want of culture ; for they, who in some parts have enjoyed that advan- tage, are found to be no less rational than other men : and if they do not attain to all the politeness of civi- lized nations, they at least think properly. The In- dians of the mission of Paraguay are, among others, remarkable instances of this; where, by the zeal, ad- dress, and exemplary piety of the Jesuits, a regular well-governed republic of rational men has been esta- blished: and the people, from an ambulatory and sa- vage manner of living, have been reduced to order, reason, and religion. Oneof the most effectual means for this was, the setting up schools for instructing the young Indians in Spanish, in which they also instruct their converts ; and those who are observed to be of a suitable genius, are taught Latin. In all the villages of the missions are schools for learning, not only to read and write, but also mechanic trades; and the artificers here are not inferior to those of Europe. These Indians, in their customs and intellects, are a _ different sort of people from those before-mentioned. They have a knowledge of things; a.clear discern- ment of the turpitude of vice, and the amiableness of virtue ; and act up to these sentiments : not that they Voz. IL Ee have 418. A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. have any natural advantage over the other: for I have observedthroughout this whole kingdom, that the In- dians of its several provinces through which I tra- velled are alike. And those of Quito are not more deficient in their understandings, than those of Val- les or Lima; nor are these more acute or sagacious than the natives of Chili and Arauco. WrrHourT going out of the province of Quito, we have a general” instance in confirmation of what I have advanced. Forall the Indians, brought up to the Spanish language, are far more acute and sensi- ble than those “who have spent their lives in little villages; and their behaviour more conformable to the dictates of a rational creature. They are men of abilities and skill, and have divested themselves of many of their errors. Whence they are called Ladi- nos, i. e. knowing men: and if they retain any of the culpable practices of the former, it is from the mfection of intercourse, or from a mistaken notion that they should keep them up as transmitted to them from their ancestors. Among-these are chiefly distin- guished the barber-surgeons, who bleed with such dexterity, that, in the opinion of Mons. de Jussieu and Mons. Seniergues, surgeons to the French acade- mists, they equal” the most famous in Europe: and their intercourse with persons of a liberal education enlightens their understanding, so that they distin- euish themselves to great advanta ge among their countrymen. It seems to me unquestionable, that if in villages care was taken to instruct the Indians in Sr anish, conformable to tlie laws of the Indies, be- sides other acquirements, this people would have the benefit of conversing more frequently with the Spa- niards, which would oreatly improve their reason, and give them a knowledge ofmany things for which they have no word in ‘their language, Accordingly it 18 observed that the Cholos (a name given to the Indian boys) becoming acquainted with the Spanish language, 2 ‘Iniprove . Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA: 419 improveso muchin knowledge, that they look on their countrymen as savages, and take upon themselves the appellation of Ladinos. Lam very far from imagining that the Spanish language itself has the virtue of improving the intel- lects of the Indians; but only, that rational conver- sation with the Spaniards would lead them to a know- ledge of many things: and consequently they might be brought te a greater purity of faith and practice. Whereas the conversation among themselves must be very low and confined : and what they have with the Spanish traders who understand their language, turns wholly on traffick. But if they understood the Spa- nish, they would daily receive new lights by conver- sing with travellers whom they attend, as well as from the inhabitants of the cities, their masters, the priests, the corregidors, and others; and thus become more industrious and tractable, and acquainted with the na- ture of things of which before they had not so much as an idea. ARE not the differences and advantages evident among ourselves, betwixt a young man whose stock of learning is his natural language, aud him who is acquainted with others? What a superiority of know- ledge, discernment, and facility in the latter! Hence we may form some idea of the abject state of the hu- man mind, among rude country people, who cannot exchange a word with a stranger, and never stir out of their village: whereas, when any one happens to go to a neighbouring town, he returns home with en- larged knowledge, and entertains all the village with - his narratives: but if he had not understood the language spoken in it, he would have been little the better, nor able to relate the strange things he saw and heard. This is the very case of the Indians ; and I-am of opinion, that to teach them the Spanish tongue would be the best means of improving their - reason, and consequently of making them better Ee 2 members 420 A VOYAGE TO Boox VÍ. members of society : and that my superiors thought so, appears from the ordinances relating to Ame- rica. Tue Indians in general are robust, and of a good constitution. And though the venereal distemper is so common in this country, it is seldom known among them : the principal cause of which unquestionably lies in the quality of the juices of their body, not being susceptible of the venom of this distemper. Many however attribute it toa quality in the chicha, their common drink. The disease which makes the greatest havock among them, is the small-pox : which 1s so fatal that few escape it. Accordingly it is looked upon in this country asapestilence. ‘This distemper is not continual as in other nations, seven or eight years, or more, passing without its being heard of ; but when it prevails, towns and villages are soon thinned of their inhabitants, This desolation is owing partly to the malignity of the disease, and partly to the want of physicians and nurses. Accordingly, on being seized with this distemper, they immediately send for the priest to confess; and die for want of remedy and relief. The like happens in all other dis- tempers; and were they frequent, would be equally fatal, these poor creatures dying for want of proper ' treatment and assistance; as is evident from the Cre- | oles, who are also attacked by the distempers of the country. Someofthe latter indeed die as wellas of the former; but many morerecover, having attendance and a proper diet: whereasthe Indians are in want of every thing. What their houses and apparel are, has al- ready been seen. Their bed is the same in health and sickness; and all the change in their food is in the manner of taking it, not in the species itself: for, - however ill they may be, all they have is a small draught of machca dissolved in chicha ; so that, ifany one does get the better of a distemper, it is more owing Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 421 owing to the happiness of his constitution, than any relief he receives. | , They are also subject to the bicho, or mal del valle; but this is soon cured. Sometimes, though seldom, they are also seized with tabardillos, or spot- ted fevers, for which they have an expeditious but singular cure. They lay the patient near the fire, on the two sheep-skins which compose his bed; and close by him place a jug of chicha. The heat of the fever, and that of the fire increasing the other, cause in him such a thirst, that he is incessantly drinking ; whereby the eruptions are augmented, and the next morning he is either in a fair way of recovery, or so bad as to be carried off in a day or two. Tuery who either escape, or recover from, these dis- tentpers, reach to an advanced age; and both sexes afford many instances of remarkable longevity. I myself have known several, who, at the age of a hun- dred, were still robust and active ; which unquestion- ably must, in some measure, be attributed to the con- stant sameness and simplicity of their food. But I must observe, that, besides the different kinds already mentioned, they also eat a great deal of salt with aga, gathering the pods of it; and having put some salt in the mouth, they bite the agi, and afterwards eat some machca or camcha: and thus they continue taking one after another, till they are satisfied. They areso fond of salt in this manner of eating it, that they prefer a pod or two of agi with some salt to any other food. ArTER this account of the genius, customs, and qualities of the Indians, it will not be improper to. speak a word or two of their diversions and occupa- tions, premising, that this account does not extend to such Indians as live in cities and towns, or that oc-- cupy any public office or trade, they being looked upon as useful to the public, and live independently. - Others in the kingdom of Quito are employed in the Ee3 manufac- 492 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. manufactories, the plantations, orin breeding of cat- tle. In order to this, the villages are annually to fur- nish those places witha number of Indians, to whom their master pays wages as settled by the equity of the king: and at the end of the year ‘i return to their villages, and are replaced by others. This repartition is called mita. And though these alterations should by order take place in the manufactories, yet it is not so: for being occupations of which none are capable but such as have been properly trained up, the In- dian families, which are admitted, settle there, and the sons are instructed in weaving, from one generation to another. The earnings of these are larger than - those of the other Indians, as their trade requires greater skilland capacity. Besides the yearly wages paid them by those whom they serve, they have also a quantity of land, and cattle given them to improve, They live in cottages built near the mansion-house, so that every one of these forms a kind of village ; some of which consist of above a hundred and fifty families. CHAP. VII. An historical Account of the most remarkable Moun- tains and Paramos, or Deserts, in the Cordil- leras of the Andes; the Rivers which have their Sources in these Mountains, and the Methods of passing them. | 1 NOW, come to the most remarkable paramos, or deserts, of the kingdom of Quito, and the rivers flowing through that country, which, among many other natural curiosities, is peculiarly remarkable for the disposition of the ground, and its prodigious masses of snow, that exceed all comparison. : q Cu. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 423 Ir has been before observed, that all the depen- dencies of the jurisdictions of this province aresituated betwixt the two Cordilleras of the Andes ; and tliat the airis moreor less cold according to the height of the mountains, and the ground more or less arid. T hese arid tracts are called Paramos, or deserts ; for though all the Cordilleras are dry or arid, some of them are much more so than others ; for the continual snowsand frost renderthem absolutely uninhabitable, even by the beasts; nor is there.a single plant to be fourid upon them. SOME of these mountains, seemingly as it were founded on others, rise to a most astonishing height, and are covered with snow even to their summits. The latter we shall more particularly treat of, as they are the most remarkable and curious objects. THE paramo of Asuay, formed by the junction of . the two Cordilleras, is not of this class ; for, though remarkable for its excessive coldness and aridity, its height does not exceed that of the Cordilleras in general, and is much lower than that of Pichincha and Corazon. Its height is the degree of the climate, where a continual congelation or freezing commences; and as the mountains exceed this height, so are they perpetually covered with ice and snow; that from a determined point above Carabucu for instance, or the surface of the sea, the congelation is found at the same height inallthe mountains. From barometrical experiments made at Pucaguayco, on the mountain Cotopaxi, the height of the mercury was 16 inches 5g lines; whence we determined the height of that place to be 1023 toises above the plain of Carabucu, and that of the latter above the superficies of the sea about 1268. ‘Thus the height of Pucaguayco, above the surface of the sea, is 2291 toises. The signal which we placed on this mountain was thirty or forty toises above the ice, or point of continual congela- tion; and the perpendicular height from the com- he 4 mencement. 424 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. mencement of this point to the summit of the moun- tain, we found, from some geometrical observations made for that purpose, to be about 880 toises. ‘Thus the summit of Cotopaxi is elevated 3126 toises above the surface of the sea, or something above three geo- ‘graphical miles ; and 639 toises higher than the top of Pichincha. ‘These are mountains I intend to speak of; and the height of them all, considering the great- ness of it, may be said to be nearly equal. Iw these Cordilleras, the most southern mountain is that of Mecas, more properly called Sanguay, though in this country better known by the former, lying in the jurisdiction of the same name. It is of a prodi- gious height, and the far greatest part of the whole surface covered withsnow. From its summit issues a continual fire, attended with explosions, which are plainly heard at Pintac, a village belonging to the . jurisdiction of Quito, and near forty leagues distant from the mountain; and, when the wind is fair, the noise is heard even at Quito itself. Thecountry ad- jacent to this volcano is totally barren, being covered with cinders ejected by it. In this Patamo, the river Sangay hasitssource. This river cannot be said to be small, but after its junction with another, called the Upano, forms the Payra, a large river which dis- charges itself into the Maranon. In the same eastern Cordillera, about six leagues west of the town of Riobamba, is a very high moun- tain, with twocrests, and both of them covered with snow; that on the north is called Collanes, and that on the south Altar; but the space covered with snow is much less than that of Sangay and others of this class, its height being proportionally less. Nortu of the same town, and about seven leagues distant, is the mountain of Tunguragua, of a conical figure, and equally steep on all sides. ‘The ground, at its basis, is something lower than that of the Cor- dillera, especially on the north side, where it seems to rise Cu. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 405 rise from the plain on which the villages are situated, On this side, in a small plain betwixt its skirts and the Cordillera, has been built the village of Bannos, so called from its hot medicinal baths, to which there is a great resort from all parts of this jurisdiction. South of Cuenca, and not far from another village, called Bannos also, belonging to this jurisdiction, “are other hot waters on the summit of an eminence, gúshing out through several apertures of four or five inches diameter, “and of a heat which hardens eggs sooner thar water boiling over the fire. These several streams unite and form a rivulet, the stones ahd banks of which are tinged with yellow, and the water is of a brackish taste. . The upper part of this small eminence is full of crevices, through which issues a continual smoke : a sufficient indication of its containing great ee of sulphureous and nitrous substances. - Norru of Riobamba, inclining some degrees to the west, is the mountain of Chanborazo, by the side of which lies the road from Quito to Guayaquil. At first great numbers of the Spaniards perished in passing the vast and dangerous deserts on its declivity ; but being at present - better acquainted with them, and inured to the climate, such misfortunes are seldom, heard of ; especially as very few take this road, unless there is the greatest appearantce of two or three days of calm andserene weather. Norrx of this mountain stands that of Carguayra- so, which has been already taken notice of. Norru of Latacunga, and about five leagues dis- tant from it, is Cotopaxi, which, towards the north- west and south, extends itself beyond ail the others ; and which, as I have before observed, became a vol- cano at the time of the Spaniards’ first arrival in this country. In 1743, a new eruption happened, having been some days preceded by a continual rumbling i in its bowels. An aperture was made in its summit, and three about the same height near the middle of its” 426 A VOYAGE TO Boor VI. its declivity, at that time buried under prodigious masses of snow. ‘The ignited substances’ ejected on that occasion, mixed with a prodigious quantity of ice and snow, melting amidst the flames, were car- ried down with such astonishing rapidity, that in an instant the plain, from Callo to Latacunga, was overflowed ; and, besides its ravagesin bearing down houses of the Indians and other poor inhabitants, great numbers of people lost their lives. The river of Latacunga was the channel of this terrible flood, till, being too small for receiving such a prodigious current, it overflowed the adjacent country like a vast Jake near the town, and carried away all the build- ings within its reach. The inhabitants retired to a spot of higher ground bebind their town, of which those parts which stood within the limits of the cur- rent were totally destroyed. The dread of still greater devastations did not subside in three days, during which the volcano ejected cinders, while torrents of melted ice and snow poured down its sides. The fire lasted severa! days, and was accompanied with terri- ble roarings of the wind rushing through the volcano, and greatly exceeded the great rumblings before heard in its bowels. At last all was quiet, neither fire nor smoke were seen, nor was there any noise to be heard till the following year,'1744; when, in the month of May, the fiames increased, and forced their passage through several other parts on the sides of the moun- tain ; so that in clearnights, the flames being reflect- ed by the transparent ice, formed a very grand and beautiful illumination. November the 30th, it eject- ed such prodigious quantities of fire and ignited sub- stances, that an inundation equal to the former soon ensued; so that the inhabitants of Latacunga gave themselves over for lost. Aud we ought to acknow- ledge the Divine protection, that it did not rage when we visited it, having occasion twice to centinue some time Cu. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 427 time on its declivity, as we have already shewn in the third chapter of the fifth book. Five leagues to the west of this mountain stands that of Illinisa, whose summit is also bifid, and con- stantly covered with snow. . From it several rivulets derive their source ; of which those flowing from the northern declivity continue that direction : as those from the southern side also run southward. The latter pay their tribute to the northern ocean, through the large river of the Amazons; while the former discharge themselves into the South- -sea, by the river of Emeralds. Norvu of Cotopaxi is another snowy mountain called Chinculagua, something less than the former, though even that is not to be compared to the others. The mountain of Cayamburo, which is one of the first magnitude, lies north, some degrees easterly, from Quito, at the distance of about ‘eleven leagues from that city. There is neither appearance nor “tra- dition of its having ever been a volcano. Several ‘Tivers issue from it, “of which those from the W. and N. run either into the river of Emeralds or that of Mira, but all fall into the South-sea; while these from the E. discharge themselves into the river of the Amazons. Besives the torrents which precipitate themselves from the snowy mountains, tee. have their source in the lower parts of the Cordilleras, and at their conflux form very large and noble rivers, which either pay the tribute to the north or south seas, as we shall hereafter observe. Aut the springs issuing from the mountains in the neighbourhood of Cuenca, on the west and south side as far as Talqui, with those of the eastern Cordillera, and northward as far as the Parama de Burgay, unite at about half a league eastward of a chapel ealled Jadan, under the care of the curate of Paute, where forming a river, and passing near the niles rom 428 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. from which it has its name, discharges itself into the river of the Amazons. It is so deep at Paute as not to be fordable, though very wide there. Froxw the mountains of Assuay, Bueran, and the adjacent hills on the south, is formed a very conside- rable river, over which are several bridges. It is called Cannar, from that town being the only one in its course; which it continues by Yocon to the bay of Guayaquil. . Tue north parts of the Paramo of _Asuay also gave rise to many streams, which, uniting with others coming from Mount Seneg eualap, and the western side of Fthe eastern Cordillera, ferm the rivér Alausi, which discharges itself into the same bay. On the highest part of the Paramo de Tioloma, and near the sional one erected on this mountain for forming our series of triangles, are four lakes, the three nearest. it being less than the other, which is about half a league in y length, and called Coley ; and the others, which are not ereatly inferior, Pichabinnac, Pubillu, and Mactallan. From these is formed the. river Cebadas, which runs near the village of that name, and is joined by another arising from the springs on the Paramo of Lalanguso, and the streams from the Colta lake, after which, inclining a little from the north towards the east, passes by Pungala; and about a league from the village of Puni, is joined by the river Bamba, which has its source in the Pa- rambo of Sisapongo. Near the town of Cobigies is another, which flows from the mountain of Chimbo- razo, bd which, after directing its course northward, tiHl it is in an east and west direction with the moun- tain of Tunguragua, it winds to the east, and adds its water to those of the river of the Amazons. At the town of Penipe, it is so deep and rapid as only to be crossed over a bridge made of bujucos. Also. before it reaches. the town of los Bannos, it is in- creased by the rivers Latacunga and Bato, lato" : with Cu. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 429 with all the streams from both the Cordilleras, those from the southern summit of Elenisa, and the southern side of Ruminavi and Cotopaxi. Tue streams flowing from the north summit of Elenisa, I have already mentioned to run northward ; and with these all from the same Cordillera unite; together with those issuing from the north and west sides of the mountain Ruminavi, those of Pasuchua ; and from this junction rises the River Amaguanna, The two last mountains stand north and south from each other, in an intermediate space of the Cordille- ras. From the north side of Cotopaxi the Paramo of Chinchulagua, which is also covered with snow, and the Cordillera de Guamani, other streams have their rise, and from their conflux is formed the river Ichu- bamba, which, running nerthward, joins the Ama- - guama, a little to the north of Cono-Coto. After- wards it receives the rivulets issuing from the eastern Cordillera, and changes its name to that of Guaylla- bamba. ‘The waters which have their source in the western part of Cayamburo, and the southern part of Moxanda, form another river called Pisque, which first runs towards the west, and joining the Guaylla- bamba, takes the name of Alchipichi, which, a little to the north of St. Antonio, in the jurisdiction of Quito, is so broad and rapid, that there is no passing it but in a tarabita, which we shall presently describe. From hence it continues its course northwards, and at last falls into the river of Emeralds. " THE mountain of Majanda stands in the interval between the Cordilleras ; and though it has only one side as it were, it is divided into two summits, one eastward and the other westward; and from both these, runs a small Cordillera, which afterwards join- ing, inclose this valley. From the side of this mountain issue two large tor- rents, which meet in the lake of St. Pablo: from whence flows a river, which, being joined by others | ALO UL 430 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. from the springs of the western Cordillera, form one stream, and after being increased by another brook from the heights of Oezillo, give rise to the river which washes the town of St. Miguel de Ibarra; after which it takes the name of Mira, and discharges itself into the South-sea, a little to the north of the river of Emeralds. WHEN the rivers are too deep to be forded, bridges are made at the most frequented places. Of these there are two kinds besides those of stone, which are very few: the former of wood, which are the most common; and the latter of bujucos. With reward to the first, they choose a place.where the river is very narrow, and has ou each side high rocks. They con- sist of only four long beams laid close together over the precipice, and form a path about a yard and a half im breadth, being just sufficient fora man to pass over on horseback ; and custom has rendered these bridges so natural to them, that they pass them with- out any apprehension. The second, or those formed of bujucos, are only used where the breadth of the river will not admit of any beams to be laid across, Intheconstruction of these, several bujucosare twisted together, so as to form a kind of large cable of the length required. Six of these are carried from one side of the river to the other, two of which are con- siderably higher than the other four. On the latter arelaid sticks in atransverse direction, and, over these, branches of trees, as a flooring; the former are fast- ened to the four which form the bridge, and by that means serve as rails for the security of the passenger, who would otherwise be in no small danger from the continual oscillation. The bejuco bridges in this country are only for men, the mules swim over the rivers; in order to which, when their loading is taken off, they are drove into the water near half a league above the bridge, that they may reach’ the opposite shore near it, the-rapidity of thestream carrying them so Ca. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. a so great a distance. Inthe mean time, the Indians car- ry over the loading on their shoulders. On some rivers of Peru there are bejuco bridges so large, that droves of loaded mules pass over them ; particularly the river Apurimac, which is the thoroughfare of all the commerce carried on between Lima, Cusco, La Plata, and other parts to the southward. | Some rivers, instead of a bejuco bridge, are passed by means of a tarabita; as is the case with regard to that of Alchipichi. This machine serves not only to carry over persons and loads, but also the beasts them- selves ; the rapidity of the stream, and the monstrous stones continually rolling along it, rendering it im- practicable for them to swim over. Tue tarabita 1s only a single rope made of bejuco, or thongs of an ox's hide, and consisting of several strands, and about six or eight inches in thickness. This rope is extended from one side of the river to the other, and fastened on each bank to strong posts. On one side is a kind of wheel, or winch, to straigh- ten or slacken the tarabita to the degree required. From the tarabita hangs a kind of leathern hammock capable of holding a man; and is suspended by a clue at each end. A rope is also fastened to either clue, and extended to each side of the river, for drawing the hammock to the side intended. A push at its first setting off, sends it quickly to the other side. For carrying over the mules, two tarabitas are ne- cessary, one for each side of the river, and the ropes are much thicker and slacker. On this rope is only one clue, whichis of wood, and by which the beast is suspended, being secured with girts round the belly, neck, and legs. When this is performed, the crea= ture is shoved off, and immediately landed on the op- posite side. Such as are accustomed to be carried over in this manner, never make the least motion, and even - come of themselves to have the girts fastened round them; but it is with great difficulty they are first brought 452 A VOYAGE TO Book Vi. brought to suifer the girts to be put round their bo- dies, and when they find themselves suspended, kick and fling, during their short passage, in a most terrible manner. The river of Alchipichi may well excite. terror in a young traveller, being between thirty and forty fathoms from shore to shore ; and its perpendi- cular height, above the surface of the water, twenty- five fathoms. A representation of these bridges, and the manner of conveying over the mules, was given in the last plate, N*.V. Tue roads of this country are suitable to the bridges; for though there are large plains between Quito and the river Bambar, and the greatest part of the road between the river Bamba and Alausi, and even to.the north of that city, lies along the mountains, yet these areinterrupted by fruitful breaches, the acclivities and declivities of which are not only of a great length and very troublesome, but also dangerous. In some places there is a necessity for travelling along tracts on the declivities of mountains, which are sometimes so nar- row as hardly to allow room for the feet of the beast; part of its body, and that of the rider, being perpen- dicular over a torrent fifty or sixty fathoms beneath the road. So that certainly nothing but absolute necessity, there being no other road, and long custom, can get the better of that horror which must affect the person at the sight of such imminent danger; and. there are too many instances of travellers losing their effects, if not lives, their whole dependence being on the sure foot of the mule. This danger is indeed, in some measure, compensated by the security of the roads; so that we see here what none of the civi- lized nations can boast of/ namely, single persons travelling, unarmed, with a great charge of gold and silver, but equally safe as if strongly guarded. If the traveller happens to be fatigued in a desert, he lays him_ down, and sleeps without the least appre- hension of danger. Or if he takes up his lodgings 1 in Cu. VIT.” SOUTH AMERICA. 438 in a tambo, or inn, he sleeps with the same security, though the doors are always open: nor is he ever molested on the road. ‘This is a convenience so fa- vourable to commerce and intercourse, that it were egteatly to be wished the same security could be esta- blished im the other parts of the world. CHAP. VIII. Continuation of the Account of the Paramos, or Deserts ; with an Account of the Beasts, Birds, and other Particulars of this Province. he conclude my observations on the Paramos, L which it was necessary to interrupt, in order to give a short account of the rivers, bridges and roads, I shall observe, that, these parts not being of a height sufficient to expose them to an eternal frost, they are covered with a kind of rush resembling the genista Hispanica, but much more soft and flexible. It is about half or three quarters of a yard in height, and, when of its full magnitude, its colour is like that of dried genista Hispanica. But where the snow remains some time on the ground without melting, none of these plants growing in habitable climates are found. There are indeed others, though few, and even these never exceed a certain height. Above this tract, no- thing is seen but stones and sand all the way up to the beginning of the ice. Iw these parts, where the above rush is the princi- pal product, the soil is as little adapted to cultiva- tion; but produces a tree, which the inhabitants call quinual, the nature of which very well suits the roughness of the climate. It is of middling height, tufted, and the timber strong; itsiéaf of a long, oval form, thick, and of a deep green colour. Though it bears the same name as the grain called quinua, of Vol. I. Ff which 434 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI which we have spoken elsewhere, and which grows in great plenty, the latter is not however the production of this tree; nor has the plant, on which it grows, any thing in common with it. ‘Tue climate proper for quinua is also adapted to the produce of a little plant, which the Indians call _ palo de luz. It is commonly about the height of two teet,consisting of stalks which e grow ont of the ground, and proceed from the same root. These stems are straight, and smooth up to the top/from which grow little branches with very small leaves. All of these nearly rise to the same height, except the outer ones, whieh are oPa less size: it is cut close to the oround, where it is about three lines in diameter; and being kindled whilst green, gives a light equal. to that of a. torch, and, with care taken to ‘Snuff it, lasts till the whole plant i is burnt, yg: In the same places grows also hie achupalla, cons; sisting of several stalks, something resembling those, . of the sabila; and as the new shoot up, the most out- . wird grow old and dry, and form a kind of trunk,, - with a great number of horizontal leaves, hollow 1 In the middle ; ; and this, when not very large, is eatable | like that of the palmitos. ; Towanps the extremity of the part where the Lat erows, abd the cold begins to increase, is found the vegetable called puchuge chu, with round leaves erow- ing together so as to represent a very smooth bulb, havi ing nothing in them buf the roots: and as. these increase, the outward case of leaves dilates into the form of around loaf, usually a foot or two in height, . and the same ia diameter: on this account they are , also called loaves or onions. When in their vigour, — they are of so liardy a nature, that a stamp witha, man’s foot, or the tread of a mule, makes no im- prin: on them; but when once fully ripe, they are easily broken. In the middle state, betwixt the full strength of their resistance and the decay of their 2 / roots Cu. VIL SOUTH AMERICA. 433. roots by age, they havean elastic quality, yielding with. a tremulous motion to the pressure of the foot, and on its being taken off recover their form. In the places where the puchugchu thrives best, also erows the canchalagua, the virtues of which are well known i in Europe. The form of this is like a very thin rush or straw; bears no leaves, but has a few small seeds at its extremity. It is medicinal, and particularly useful as a febrifuge ; its taste 1s bitter, which. it easily communicates either by-infusion or de- coction. In this country itis chiefly used as a sweet- ener of the blood, though thought to be of a hot qua- lity, “At grows in ¢ creat quantities, and is found both among the puchugchu, and in other parts on the heath where the cold is less intense. ANOTHER plant, not less yaluable for its virtues, and growing chiefly in those dreadful deserts where, either from the severity of the cold or pernetual snows, or from the badness of the soil, nothing,else is produced, is found the so celebrated calaguala ; its height is about six or eight inches, and “naturally spreads itself in thin stems along the sand, or climbs up the rocks. These branches in their form resem- ble the fibril of the roots of the other plants, being not above two or three lines in their greatest thickness, round, and full of little knots, where they bend round like the tendrils of a vine. They have a thin pellicle of a loose texture, which of itself separates. when the plant dries, ~The most singular virtue ,of this plant is for all kind of impo osthumes, internal or ex- ternal, which it discusses and he cals ia a very little time. The mannerof administering it 1s by decoction, of which:a very little serves; or, after bruising it, to infuse it inwine, and take it fasting for thfee or four days, and no longer, its good effects in that time being usually conspicuous ; and being extremely hot, it mig ht prove per nicious, if taken in greater quanuty than absolutel y necessary; forwhich reasononly three FfQ or 436 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI or four pieces, éach about an inchand a half inlength, are used for the infusion, and with such sort of wine as will best correct its bitterness. Though this excel- lent herb grows in most of those frozen deserts, yet the best is that in the southern province of Peru. The leaves are very small, and the few it bears grow contiguous to the stem. * Tue parainos, or barren heaths, likewise yield the contrayerva, which makes a part of the materia me- dica in Europe, and is considered as an excellent alexi- pharmic. ‘This is also a creeping plant, with a leaf of about three or four inches in length, and little more than one ii breadth, thick, and the back part of it exceeding soft to the touch, and of a deep green. ‘The other side is also smooth, but of a light green, Onitsstem grows a large blossom, consisting of many flowers inclining to a violet colour: but neither these nor the other flowers, which grow in great abundance in these countries, according to its several climates, are much esteemed; so that, when wanted, the readiest way is to send and have them cut from the plant. | Tuoucn the severity of the air on the deserts is such, that all animals cannot live there, yet they af ford many beasts of venery, which feed on the straw or rush peculiar to those parts; and some of these creatures are met with on the highest mountains, where the cold is intolerable to the human species. Among the rushes are bred great numbers of rabbits, and some foxes, both which in their appearance and qualities, resemble those of Carthagena and other parts of the Indies. Tue only birds known in those rigorous places are partridges, condors, and zumbadores or hummers. The partridges differ something from those of Eu- rope; they nearly resemble the quail, and are very scarce. THE Cx. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 437 Tue condor is the largest bird in these parts of the world; its colour and appearance resemble those of the galinazos, and sometimes it soars from the highest mountains so.as to be almost out of sight: and by its being seldom seen in low places,a subtile air seems best to agree with it; though some, which have been tamed when young, live in the villages and plantations. Like the galinazos, they are extremely carnivorous, and are known frequently to seize and fly away with lambs that feed on the heaths: of this 1 happened to see an instance, in my way down from the signal of Lalanguso toward the plantation of Pul, lying near the bottom of those mountains. Observing, on a hill adjoining to that where I was, a flock of sheep in great confusion, I saw one of these condors flying upwards from it with a lamb betwixt its claws; and, when at some height, dropped it; then, following it, took it up, and let it fall a second time, when it wing- ed its way out of sight, for fear of the Indians, who, at the cries of the boys and barkings of the dogs, were running towards the place. _ In some deserts this bird is common; and as it preys on the flocks, the Indians are not wanting im their endeavours to catch them. One of the ways is, to kill a cow, or other beast, when of no further use, and to rub the flesh with the juice of some potent herbs, which they afterwards carry away : for other- wise the bird, sensible of them by natural instinct, would not touch the flesh. Further, to take off the smell, théy bury the flesh till it becomes putrid, and then expose it; when the condors, allured by the smell of the carcase, hasten and greedily feed on it, till the herbs operate so as to render them quite sense- less and incapable of motion: the Indians seize the opportunity, and destroy them. They likewise catch them with springes laid near some flesh: but such is the force of this bird, that, with a stroke of its wing, it sometimes knocks down the man who approaches ra] £5 at 438 “A VOYAGE TO. — “Boor VÍ it. Their wing also serves them as a shield, by which they ward off blows, without receiving any hurt. Tue zumbador, or hummer, is a night bird, _pe- culiar to the mountainous deserts ; and they are sel- dom seen, though frequently hear d, both by the sing- ing, and a strange humming made in the air by the rapidity of their flight, and which may be heard at the distance of fifty toises; and when near, is louder than that of a rocket. Their singing may indeed be called a kind of cry, resembling “hat of “‘night- birds. In moonlight nights, when th ¡ey More frequently make their appearance, we have often watched to see their sizeand the celerity of their motion ; and though they passed very near us, we never were able to form any idea of their magnitude; all that we could see, was a white line which they formed in their flight through the air; and this was plainly perceivable, when at no great distance. We prope the Indians a reward if they would procure us one; but all they could do was to procure a young one, scarce fledged, though it was then of the size of a partridge, “and all over speckled with dark and heh brown; the bill was proportionate and strait; the’ aperture of the nostrils much larger than usual, the tail small, and the wings of a proper size for the body. According to our Indians, it is with the nostrils that it makes such a loud humming. This may, in.some measure, con- tribute to it; but the effect seems much too great for such an instrument; especially as at the time of the humming it also uses its voice. AMONG the valleys aud plains formed by these mountains y¡aremany marshy places, occasioned by the great variety of small streams of water; and in these breed great numbers of a bird called canclon, a name per fectly expressive of its manner of singing. Itvery much resembles the bandurria, though the species be different: it exceeds the bigness ofa large Y EE nas : Ch. VILL SOUTH AMERICA. | 439 has a long thick neck, and a head something resem- bling that bird. The bill is straight and thick, and its legs and feet thick and strong. The outward feathers of the wing are ofa dark brown, those of the inside of a pure white ; but the other parts of the body spotted. At the meeting of the wings they have two spurs, projecting to the Jeneth of an inch and a half, as their defence. ‘The male and female are insepara- ble, whether flying, or on the ground, where they mostly keep themselves, never taking flight except across a valley, or when pursued. The flesh eats very well, after being kept three or four days to lessen its natural toughness. These birds are also found in places less cold than the mountainous deserts ; ; but here, indeed, they are something different, having on the forehead a kind of cartilaginous horn ; but both these and the other species have a crest on their head. Tue gardens of all kinds in the villages are much frequented by a bird very remarkable both for its smallness and the vivid colours of its feathers. It is generally called picaflores, or flower-peckers, from its hovering over them, and sucking their juices without lacerating or so much as disordering them. its proper name is quinde, though it is also known by those of Rabilargo and Lisongero, and in England by that of humming bird. Its whole body, with its plumage, does not t exceed the bigness of a middle-sized nutmeg; the tail is usually near “three times the length of the whole body, yet has but few feathers ; its neck is short; the head proportioned, with a very brisk eye; the bill long and slender, whiteat the beginning and black at the end: the wings are also long and narrow. Most of the body is green, spotted with yellow and blue. Some are higher ‘coloured than others; and allare variegated with streaks as it were of gold. Of this bird also there are various species, distinguished by their size and colours. “his is thoug! ht to be the smallest of all known birds; the rf4 femiile 440 A VOYAGE TO _Boox VI. female lays but two eggs at a time, and those no bigger than peas. They buildin trees, and the coarsest materials of their nests are the finest straws they can pick up. 3 | In the parts of this country, which are neither taken up by mountains nor forests, only tame animals are met with ; whence it is probable, that formerly its mative species were but very few; most of thesehaying been introduced by the Spaniards, except the llama, to which the Indians added the name of runa, to de- ‘notean Indian sheep, that beast being now understood by the runa-llama; though properly llama is a general name importing beast, in opposition to the human species. This animal, in several particulars, resembles the camel: as in the shape of its neck, head, and some other parts; but has no bunch, and is much smaller; cloven-footed, and different in colour; for though most of them are brown, some are white, others black, and others of different colours: its pace resembles that of a camel, and its height equal to that of an ass betwixt a year and two old. The In- dians use them as beasts of carriage ; and they an- swer very well for any load under a hundred weight. They chiefly abound in the jurisdiction of Riobamba, there being scarce an Indian who has not one for car- rying on his little traffick from one village to another. Anciently the Indians used to eat the flesh of them, and still continue to make that use of those which are past labour. They say there is no difference betwixt it and mutton, except that the former is something sweeter; it is a very docile creature, and easily kept. Its whole defence is, to eject from its nostrils some viscosities, which are said to give the itch to any on which they fall; so that the Indians, who firmly be- lieve this, are very cautious of provoking the llama. Iw the southern provinces of Peru, namely, in Cusco, La Paz, La Plata, and the adjacent parts, are two other animals, not very different from the llama: | ; , these , x. V 1H. SOUTH AMERICA. 441 these are, the vicuna and the guanaco; the only dif . ference between them being, that the vicuna 1s some- thing smaller, its woolshorter and finer, and brown all over the body, except the belly, which is whitish. The guanaca on thecontrary is much larger, 1ts wool long and harsh; but the shape of both is pretty near alike. These last are of great service in the mines, carrying metals in such rugged roads as would be im- practible to any other beast. Iw the houses is bred. a creature called chucha ; but in the other southern provinces it is known by the In-. dian name of muca-muca; it resembles a rat, but considerably bigger, with along snout, notunlike that of a hog; the feet and tail are exactly the same as those ota rat: but the hair is longerand black. In the lower part of its beily, from the beginning of the stomach to the natural orifice of the sex, runs asort of bag, formed of two membranous skins, which grow- ing from the lower ribs, and joining in the midale, follow the conformation of the belly, which they 1n- close: in the middle of it is an aperture extending abouttwo-thirds of its length, and which the creature Opens and shuts at pleasure by means of muscles, doubtless formed by nature for this purpose. After bringing forth her young, she deposits them in this bag, and carries them as asecénd preguancy till they are fit for weaning ; she then relaxes the muscles, aad the young come out asa second brood. Monsieur de Jussieu and M. Seniergues, when at Quito, made an experiment, at which Don George Juan 2nú i were both present. The dam had been dead three days, and began to smell very disagreeably; the oritice of the bagremained still shut, but tue young ones we found full of life within, each witha teat in its mouth; from which, at the time we took them off, some small drops of milk came out. The male I never saw: but was told that it was of the same biguess and shape as the female, except the bag; the testicles 3 of de? A VOYAGE TO Boow-VÍ. of this creature are of an enormous dispropor- tion, being of the size of a hen’s egg. It is a very fierce enemy to all bap, birds, and doesa great deal of damage in the maize fields. The Indians eat the flesh, ae y say it is not at all disagreeable: but few Europeans have much veneration for their taste or cookery. | CHAP. IX. Phenomena observed in the mountainous Deserts and other Parts of this Province. Hunting Matches. Dexterity of the American Horses, O the before-mentioned particulars of the moun- tainous deserts, I shall subjoin the phenomena seen there, as subjects equally meriting the curiosity of a rational reader. At first we were greatly sur- prized with two, on account of their novelty ; but frequent observations rendered them familiar. One we saw in Pambamarca, on our first ascent thither; it was a triple circulariris. At break of day the whole mountain was encompassed with very thick clouds, which the rising of the sun dispersed so far as to leave only some vapours of a tenuity not cognizable by the sight: on the opposite side to that where the sun rose, and about ten toises distant from the place where we were standing, we saw, as in a looking-glass, the image of each of us, the head being as HE were the centre of three concentric iris's: the last or most ex- ternal colours of one touched the first of the follow- ing ; and at some distance froin them all, was a fourth arch entirely white. These were perpendicular to the horizon ; and as the person moved, the phenomenon moved also in the same disposition and order. But what was most remarkable, though wé were six or seven together, every one saw the phenomenon with regard Se Explanation or the Plates. Page 430 FLV Page q42. ALES As ZA, what was most remarkable, tnougn We were six or seven together, every one saw the phenomenon with regard Cu. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 443 regard to himself, and not that relating to others. The diameter of the arches gradually altered with the ascent of the sun above the horizon; and the pheno- menon itself, after continuing a long time, insensibly vanished. In the beginning, the diameter of the in- ward iris, taken from its last colour, was about five degrees and a half; and that of the white arch, which circumscribed the others, not less than sixty-seven degrees. At the beginning of the phenomenon, the arches seemed of an oval or elliptical figure, like the disk of the sun; and afterwards became per- fectly circular. Each of the least was of a red .co- Jour, bordered with an orange; and the last followed by a bright yellow, which degenerated into a straw ' colour ; and this turned to a green. But in all, the external colour remained red. On the mountains wealso had frequently the plea- sure of seeing arches formed by thelight of the moon; particularly one onthe 4th of April, 1738, about eight at night, on the plain of Turubamba, But the most singular was one seen by Don George Juan, on the mountain of Quinoa-loma, on the 22d of May, 1739, at eight at night. These arches were entirely white, without the mixture of any other colour; and formed along the slope or side of a mountain. That which Don George Juan saw, consisted of three arches, touching in the same point: the diameter of the inner arch was sixty degrees; and the breadth of the ‘white mark, or delineation, took up a space of five degrees ; the two others were, in every respect, of the same dimensions. THe atmosphere, and the exhalations from the soil, seem more adapted than in any other place for kind- ling the vapours ; meteors being here more frequent, and often very large; last longer, and are nearer the earth, than the like phenomena seen in other parts. One of these inflammations, of a very extraordinary Jargeness, was scen at Quito whilst we were there. I can- 444 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. I cannot exactly determine the date of its appearance, the paper on which I had wrote an account of it being lost, when I was taken by the Enelish: but the particulars, which I remember, are as follow. ABOUT nine at night, a globe of fire appeared to rise from the side of mount Pichincha; and so large, that it spread a light all over the part of the city facing that mountain. ‘The house where I lodged looking that way, I was surprised with an extraor- dinary light darting through the crevices of the window shutters. On this appearance, and the bustle of the people in the streets, I hastened to the window, and came time enough to see it in the middle of its career, which continued from west to south, till I lost sight of it, being intercepted by the mountain of Panecillo, which lies in that quarter. It was round, and its apparent diameter about a foot. I said that it seemed to rise from the sides of Pichincha: for, to judge from its course, it was behind that mountain where this congeries of inflammable matter was kindled. In the first half of its visible course, it emitted a prodigious effulgency ; then gradually be- gan to grow dim, so that at its occultation behind the Panecillo, its light was very faint. I sHaxx conclude this chapter with an account of the manner of hunting, which is the only diversion in the country; and in which they passionately de- . light. Indeed the most remarkable circumstance in it is the ardour and intrepidity of the hunters; and which a stranger, at first, will naturally consider as mere rashness, till he sees persons of the greatest pru- dence, after having made one single trial, join in these parties; trusting entirely to their horses; so that it is rather to be termed a dextrous and manly exercise, and proves thesuperiority botlrof the riders and horses to the most celebrated in Europe; and that the boast- ed fleetness of the latter is dulness, wherrcompared to the Cir, BE. SOUTH AMERICA. AAS the celerity with which those of America run over mountains and precipices. Tue hunting is performed by a great number of people, who are divided into two classes; oneon horse- back, the other.on foot, who are generally Indians, The business of the latter is, to rouse the beast ; and that of the others, to hunt it. They all, at break of day, repair to the place appointed, which is generally on the summit of the paramos. Every one brings his greyhound ; and the horsemen place themselves on the highest peaks, whilst those on foot range about the breaches, making a hideous noise in order to start the deer. Thus the company extend themselves three or four leagues, or more, according to their numbers. On the starting of any game, the horse which first perceives it sets off; and the rider, being unable to guide or stop hin, pursues the chace sometimes down such a steep slope, that a man on foot, with the great- est care, could hardly keep his legs; from thence up a dangerous ascent, or along side of a mountain, that a person, not used to this exercise, would think it much safer to throw himself out of the saddle, than commit his life to the precipitate ardour of the horse. Thus they continue till they come up with the game, or till, after following it four or five leagues, the horses tire. ‘Those in the other stations, on perceiving one horse on its speed, immediately start ; and thus the whole company are soonin motion; some hasten- ing to meet the beast, and others following the chace ; so that in such multitudes it is very seldom his good fortuneto escape. The horses here do not wait for the riders to animate them; they set forward imme- diately on seeing another on full speed on a different mountain, or at theshouts of the huntsmen, or cries of the dogs, though at ever so great a distance, or even by observing in a dog the least motion that he scents the game. One such circumstance is sufficient for these horses: and it then becomes prudence in the Ee rider 446 A VOYAGE TO | Boox VI, rider to give him. his way, and: at the.same time to. let him feel the spur to carry him over the precipices. But, at the same time, let him be very attentive to keep the saddle; for on such declivities the least neglect throws the rider over the horse's head : the consequence of which, either by the fall or by being trampled «pon, is generally fatal. These horses are. called paramos, being backed and exercised in run- ning ovér such dangerous places. ‘Their usual pace. 18 trotting. "There is indeed another species called aguilillas, equally remarkable for their swiftness and security. Though the aguilillas only pace, they equal the longest trot E the hens and some of them are. sO cet, . that no other horse can match them even at full gallop. I once was master of one of this kind; and which, though none of the racers, often carried me in twenty-nine miuutes from Callao to Lima, which is two measured leagues and a half, though. notwithstanding great part of the road was very bad and stony ; and in twenty-eight or twenty-nine mi- nutes brought me back again, without ever taking. off the bridle. . This I can assert from my OWN €ex-. perience, . These horses are very seldom known to, gallop or trot; and it is a very difficult matter even, to bring them to it by teaching, though the trotting horses soon come into pacing. The pace of the: aguilillas is by lifting up the fore and hind leg of , the same side at once; but instead of putting “the. hinder foot in the place where the fore foot was, as is the usual way of other pacing horses, they advance | it farther, egual tothat on the contrary side, or some- thing beyond it; that thus, in each motion, they ad- vance twice the space of the common horses, Be- sides, they are very quick in their motions, and re- markably easy to the rider. OTHEu horses, not of this breed, are taught the same manner of pacing, and perform it with ease and: expedition, as those in whom it is a natural quality: neither CaHX. SOUTH AMERICA. 447 neither species are handsome, but very gentle and do- cile; full of spirit and intrepidity. C BAP: Xx, A short Account of the many Silver and Gold Mines in the Province of Quito; and the Method of ex- tracting the Metal. HE chief riches of the kmgdom of Peru, and A the greatest part of the Spanish possessions on the continent, being the mines, which spread their ramifications through the whole extent of these coun- tries ; that province is justly accounted the most va- luable where the mines are most numerous, or at least where the greatest quantity of metal is pro- cured, The fertility of the soil, the exuberant har- vests with which the labourer's toil is rewarded, would lose much of their advantage, had not the precious contents in the bowels of tbe earth exercised the ingenuity of the miner. The fertile pastures which so richly cover the country, are disregarded, if the stones upon trial are not found to answer the avi- dity of the artists: and the plentiful productions of the earth, which are in reality the most excellent gifts of nature, for the support, and comfort of hu- man life, are undervalued and slighted, unless the mountains contain rich veins of a fine silver. ‘Thus, contrary to the nature of things, the name of rich is bestowed on that province where most mines are worked, though so entirely destitute of the other more necessary products, that the great number of people, employed in the mines, are under a necessity of being supplied from other parts: aud those provinces, whose pastures are covered with flocks, and herds, whose fields yield plentiful harvests, and their trees bend beneath rich fruits, under the fertilizing infivenerios a be- 448 A VOYAGE TO Boox VL a benign climate, but destitute of mines, or forgot- ten through neglect; .are looked upon as poor: and indeed, except in the plentiful surface of the earth, make no wealthy appearance. ‘This 1s the case here; and the reasonof it is evident: those countries are as staples for silver and gold; which are taken from the bowels of the earth only to be sent into distant na- tions with all possible diligence, their native country being that where they make the least stay : and the same practice is observed to be carried on, no less eagerly, throughout every town and village in the ‘Indies: for, as they cannot well do without European goods, the gold and silver of America must be paid in exchange for them. | | In a province where no mines are worked, the fertility of the soil, and goodness of its products are’ neglected ; for the scarcity of money reduces them to such a low price, that the husbandman, for want of an incentive to any assiduous industry, instead of sowing and planting all he could, consults only what he may vend according to the common consumption, besides what is necessary for the support of his family. And as the whole return of what he receives for his fruits and grain, even when he is so fortunate as to exportany, goesaway again in exchange for European goods, the scarcity of money still continues, and he 18 sO poor as sometimes possibly to want even ne- cessariés. It is otherwise in provinces abounding with mines; for these bemg the objects of the attention and labours of its inhabitants, there is acontinual cir- culation of money. What is carried out, is replaced by that drawn from the mines. Norare they even in want of European goods, or thé produce of the more fertile countries, plenty of traders from all parts resorting to places near the mines, as the original seats of gold and silver. But that province where the richness of the mimes and of the soil concenter, is doubtless preferable to those where nature has given only ‘Cu. X. SOUTH AMERICA. 449 only one of these advantages. Quito may justly be classed among the former, being that province which of all Peru is the most fertile in grain and fruits ; the most populous, and especially in Spaniards ; abounds most in cattle; has the most manufactures, and excels in them; and in mines, if not the richest, yet equal to any of the others, on which nature has poured out these her choicest favours. But 1t seems as if nature, unwilling to distinguish this by an abso- lute happiness, has denied it a suitable concourse of people, that it might not at once have a full enjoy- ment of all the benefits lavished on it, there being no reason, which can disculpate the inhabitants of Quito in the neglect of the mines. For though the number of them discovered be very great, and af- - ford a very probable conjecture that the Cordilleras must contain many more; yet very few are worked, particularly within these jurisdictions. Thus the richesof the country lie buried, and without them the fertility of the soil cannot supply their want; so as to spread through the province an opulence like that observable in the other provinces of Peru, where, by the circulation of silver, there is an universal ap- pearance of affluence, gaiety, and splendour. Or the great number of mines within the province of Quito, some were formerly worked, which at pre- sent are abandoned. The country then was sensible of its advantage; and the remembrance of the general opulence of those times, resulting from the riches ta- ken out of the mines, still subsists. Not only the ca- pital, but the towns and villages were then very popu- lous: and many of its inhabitants were famous all over Peru for their prodigious wealth. The rich’ — mines within the jurisdiction of Mecas, were irreco- verably lost by a revolt of the Indians; and in pro- cess of time the very remembrance of their situation was obliterated. .The:mines.of Zaruma have been Voz. I. Ge abandon- e & 450 “A VOYAGE TO” Book VI. abandoned, the art of working the ore being lost, for want of a sufficient number of people to apply them- selves to it: and the same decline is now seerrall over the province. ‘The fertility, as natural to the climate, still continues in all its plenty: but scarce the shadow of its former lustre and magnificence re- mains; and that enormous wealth, in which it glo- ried, is now no more. For if its products and ma- nufactures bring in considerable quantities of silver from Lima and Valles, all is expended on European goods; so that, as I observed, little of that gold and silver, so common in the more southern provinces, is to be seen here. THe only part of the province of Quito, which, under this unhappy change, preserves its ancient opu- lence, is the department within the government of Popayan, which throughout abounds in gold mines, and great numbers of them are still worked. To gratify the curious, I shall give an account of the principal, and the manner of working the gold ore; as it is djfferent from that used in the 1 mines of Caxa. After which, I shall mention the other mimes known within that province. Every part of the jurisdiction of Popayan abounds in mines of gold; and though in some departments more are worked than in others, yet they all yield gold : and new mines are daily discovered and work- ed; which, under all the inclemencies of the air, in some parts fills its towns with inhabitants. - Among the departments belonging to the province of Quito, the richest in gold are those of Cali, Buga, Almaguar, and Barbacoas, some of its mines being always more or less worked ; and with this singular advantage in its gold, of never being mixed with any heterogene- ous body ; ; _consequently no mercury is requisite in extracting it. THE Cu. X. SOUTH AMERICA, _ 451 - Tue gold mines in these parts are not Caxa mines, - as those of silver and many of gold are; that is, they are not contained and confined as it were betwixt two natural walls; but the gold is found dispersed and mixed with the earth and gravel; as sands are found mingled with earths of different species. Thus the whole difficulty consists in separating the grains of gold from the earth; and this is very easily done, though otherwise it would be impracticable, by run- “hing conduits of water. This method is also equally necessary in the Caxamines, where the silver and gold are intimately united with other bodies, as, after having gone through the operation of the quicksilver, which their quality renders indispensable, it is washed in order to-separate the remaining filth. After the last operation the amalgama is pure, consisting en- tirely of quicksilver, and gold or silver, according to the species which has been worked. Tue manner, throughout the whole jurisdiction of Popayan, for extracting the gold, is, to dig the ore out of the earth, and lay it in,a large cocha, or re- . servoir made for that purpose; and when this is fill- ed, water is conveyed into it through a conduit: they then vigorously stir the whole, which soon turns to a mud, and the lightest parts are conveyed away through another conduit, which serves as a drain; and this work is continued till only the most ponderous parts, as little stones, sand, and the gold, remain at the bottom. The next part of the progress is, to go into the cocha with wooden buckets made for this. purpose, in which they take up the sediment; then moving them circularly and uniformly, at the same time changing the waters, the less ponderous parts are separated; and at last the gold remains at the bottom of the bucket, clear from all mixture. It is generally found in grains as smali as those of sand ; and for that reason called oro en polvo; though some- Gg2 times * 452 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. times pepitas, or seeds, are fouiid among it, of dif- ferent sizes, but generally they run small. The water issuing from this cocha is stopped in another con- trived a little beneath it, and there undergoes a like operation; in order to secure any small particles of gold, which, from their extreme smallness, might be carried off by the current of the water being mixed with earth and other substances: and lastly, this wa- ter is passed into a third cocha. But the savings here are generally inconsiderable. | Tuis is the method practised in all the mines be- longing to the jurisdiction of Popayan. The labour- ers are Negro slaves, purchased by the owners: and whilst some are employed in washing, others bring earth; so that the'washers are kept in continual em- ployment. The fineness of this gold is generally of twenty-two carats ; sometimes more, even to twenty- “three: sometimes indeed it is under, though very seldom below twenty-one. In the district of Choco are many mines of Lava- dero, or wash gold, like those we have just described. There are also some, where mercury must be used, the gold being enveloped in, other metallic bodies, stones, and bitumens. Several of the mines have been abandoned on account of the platina; a sub- stance of such resistance, that, when struck on an anvil of steel, it is not easy to be separated ; nor is it calcinable; sothat the metal, inclosed within this obdurate body, could not be extracted without in- finite labour and charge. In some of these mines the gold is found mixed with the metal called tumbaga, or copper, and equal to that of the East; but its most remarkable quality is, that 1t produces no ver- digrease, nor is corroded by any acids, as common copper is well known to be. : Tue gold taken out of all these lavaderos, or mines, in the province of Quito, is partly circulated in a Cu. X. SOUTH AMERICA. 453 in it: but after no long stay, like the other gold of these countries, goes away to Lima; yet these circu- lations, however temporary, preserve it from that de- cay which other parts have felt. A large quantity of this gold is carried to Santa Fé or Carthagena, se that Quito sees very little of it. In the district of the town of Zaruma, within the jurisdiction of Loxa, are several gold mines work- ed; and though of no great fineness, being only be- twixt sixteen and eighteen carats, they are so rich, that, when refined to twenty carats, they prove more advantageous to the miners than those where the gold is naturally of that fineness, but less abundant. An- ciently it was usual to work veins; but the inhabi- tants are now so indolent, that most of them are ne- glected. These ores are worked with quicksilver; and all the mines here are Caxa mines. Of the same kind also are other gold mines within the jurisdiction of the government of Jaen Bracamoros, which, about eighty or a hundred years ago, yielded great quantities of metal. But the Indians of those parts, encouraged by the success of their brethren of Macas, having revolted, the situation of them was entirely forgotten ; and no care has since been taken to search after them. The gold extracted from these mines, though not so fine as that of Popayan, far exceeded the Zaruma gold. The Indians still extract some small quanti- ties, when absolute necessity drives them to this re- source for paying the tribute. In order to this, they go to some brook or river, and there wait till it over- _ flows its bank, then wash the sands till they have procured a sufficient quantity to answer their present necessity ; then they immediately leave off, not think- ing it worth while to fatigue themselves any longer about it. Several mines discovered all over this pro- vince, have undergone the-same fate. One of these was in-the jurisdiction of the town of Latacunga, Gg3 | near ASA A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. near the village of Angamarca ; the owner of which was an inhabitant of the village called Sanabria. The quantity of metal he procured from it was so great, that in order to lose no time, he caused it to be worked day and night, and had for that purpose a great number of Negro slaves, who laboured in the night; and the Indians continued the work in the day time. But in the height of his prosperity, the Mine in a violent storm gave way, and sunk so low, that, though frequent searches have been made after it, the vein could not be found. At last, in the year 1743, a person discovered it by an accident of the same nature that had destroyed it; a violent tempest happened, during which, a torrent of water gushed out through the former entrance of the mine. The person, interpreting this accident as a providential indication, immediately undertook the working of it ; and it has fully answered his expectations, WiTH1N the jurisdiction of this province are many other mines, which appear to have been worked at different times, and to have yielded a great quantity of metal. The nature of the country seems best adapted to gold mines ; though there are several silver veins, which appear to be very rich: and accordingly - an account of them is entered in the several revenue offices, and in the records of the audience of Quito. Some have been lately worked, though with little en- couragement: of this number may be said to be that of Guacaya, in the jurisdiction of Zicchos, on the frontiers of Latacunga ; and another likewise of silver, about two leagues from the former. Both were worked some time; but never beyond the surface of the earth, the undertakers not having a sufficient stock of their own to work them in form; and the assistance they solicited was denied. The most cele- brated silver mine in all this district,is that called Sarapullo, about eighteen leagues from the same town- of Cu. X. SOUTH AMERICA. 455 of Zicchos. This also was opened, but discontinued through the instability of the undertaker, and the want of proper assistance, In the other jurisdiction, as well as in that of La- tacunga, are all the indications of rich mines, though the number of them discovered is much less. The mountain of Pichincha is, by the inhabitants of Quito, thought to containimmense treasures: and the grains of gold, found in the sands of the waters which issuefromit, greatly countenancethe opinion; though : there is not the least vestige all over the mountain, that formerly any mine was discovered or worked there. But the latter is no great objection: as the disruptions caused by storms, or pracess of time, are such as sometimes might entirely choak them up, and cover them soas to leave no traces of their existence ; and a suitable diligence and care have not been used for the discovery of any. Besides this mountain, its whole Cordillera, together with the eastern chain of Guamani, and many other parts, equally abound with the like appearances of rich mines. - In the districts of Otabalo, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, in the territories of the village of Cayambe, along the sides and eminences of the vast mountain Cayamburo, are still remaining some mo- numents in confirmation of the tradition, that, be- fore the Conquest, mines were worked there, which yielded a vast quantity of metal. Among several mountains near the village of Mira, famed for their ancient riches, is one called Pachon, from which an inhabitant of that village is certainly known to have collected, a few years ago, a vast fortune. None “of these are worked; a particular nothing strange to him who sees how the mines lately discovered are neglected, though their quality is sufficiently known, Gg4 - THE 456 A VOYAGE TO Book VI. ThE whole country of Pallactanga, in the juris- diction of the town of Rio Bamba, is full of mines of gold and silver; and the whole jurisdiction abounds with them to such a degree, that one person with whom J was acquainted in that town, and who, by is civilities to us and the French academicians, . seemed to have a soul suitable to his opulence, had entered, on his own account, at the mine-office of Quito, eighteen veins of gold and silver, and all of a'good quality. The ore of one of these veins, by the miners called negrillos, being assayed at Lima, in | 1728, it appeared, from a certificate of Don Juan Antonio de la Mota Torres, that it produced eighty marks of silver per chest; a very astonishing circum- stance, the usual produce in rich mines being only eight or ten marks per chest, each chest containing fifty quintals of ore. This is the case of Potosi and Lipes, which, after the expence of carrying the ore to other places, in order toits being refined, and other charges, not only answers them all at ten marks per chest, but the surplusis then very considerable. There are likewise other mines where, after being refined, a chest yields only five or six marks of silver, and insome only three; which yet will bear the expence of refi- ning, being in a cheap country, where great numbers of people are willing to work for low wages. Be- sides the riches contained in the mountains belong- ing to the jurisdiction of Cuenca, though this rests only on an old Indian tradition, several mines have lately been discovered and worked, but not with the care requisite to reap all the advantages they offer. One of these was in the district of Alausi, at about six leagues from a plantation called Susna; the owner of which, during the intervals of rural la- bour, used to employ his Indians and Negroes in taking out the ore, which he found to be very rich: but, for want of a sufficient fund to prosecute this ] work, Cx. X. * SOUTH“AMERICA. 457 work, and at the same ‘time nót neglect his plan- tation, he never was able'to get from the mine that immense quantity of silver which its richness seem- ed to promise, if worked in form. All that coun- try is indeed so full of mines, that, with an indus- trious turn in the minds .of the inhabitants, they would be found in number and richness to equal those which have’ proved the sources of such in- finite wealth to the’southern provinces of Peru: but.it is far otherwise. This supineness is thought to be owing to the great plenty ; and consequently a low rate of all kinds of provisions: for the in- habitants, having all they desire for little or no- thing, cannot be“prevailed on to slave in digging the earth for golé&; whence the inhabitants of the cities and towns Ye hindered from acquiring large fortunes, and consequently increasing them, by un- dertaking to work more mines. Add to this the prejudice, or rather apprehension of the difficulties ; which are thought so great, that when a person ex- presses his intention of working in some mine, others look upon him as a man running headlong to his destruction, and who risks certain ruin for remote and uncertain hopes. They endeavour therefore to divert him from his purpose; and if they cannot succeed in this, they fly from him as if they were afraid lest he should communicate the infection to them. It is not therefore strange that these mines, so rich in all appearance, should be neglected, and no person found desirous of reaping the great ad- vantages which would doubtless result from work- ing them. ‘This occupation, for want of being sufficiently acquainted with it, is universally dread- ed: whereas in the southern provinces of Quito it is quite otherwise; the celebrated miners being men of great power, vast fortunes, and the most eminent families in the country. Besides which, are great ve 458 | A VOYAGE TO Boox VI, great numbers of other miners of more limited circumstances, all eagerly embracing any opportu- nity of employing their substance in undertaking mines. | Tue governments of Quijos and Majos are no less sy Mi DA in mines than the jurisdictions of Qui- to; those in Jaen are of infinite richness; and those of Maynas and Atacames not inferior to them, With regard to the first, it is very well known, that the Indians on the banks of the Maranon, by wash- ing the sands of some of the rivers running into it, procure what gold they want, though their desires in this point are as moderate as ‘the avidity of other na- tions are insatiable. This gold isan evident sign that the adjacent country abounds in mines. As to the ae experience has shewn that the borders of the rivers of Santiago and Mira are full of veins of gold, the Mulattos and Mestizos supplying themselves ‘with that metal by washing the sands, But neither of them have applied themselves to discover the ori- ginal veins, Besides gold and silver mines, the pro» vince of Quito has “also those. of other metals, and quarries of fine stone : but these are utterly disregard- ed by the inhabitants. Yet this province could not attain the complete possession of its riches, if to the mines of gold and silver, nature had not added those materials which are necessary in extracting’ the trea- sures they contain, and in the other services of life; nor could this country be properly said to be rich'in ‘mines, if it afforded only those of gold and silver; but nature, that there might be no deficiency i in her gift, hath also furnished it with mines of azogue or quicksilver, which are found in the southern extre- mity of the province, neara village of the same name belonging to the jurisdiction of Cuenca. Formerly the quicksilver for the gold and silver mines was furnished froin hence ; but this has been’suppressed ; so e Ca. X. - SOUTH AMERICA. . 459 so that at present only those of Guanca Velica are allowed to be worked: by which means a stop has been put to those frauds discovered in the payments of the fifths; the miners, instead of applying to the mine-offices within their department, or the principal staple, supplying themselves with contraband mercury, And the end has been fully answered with regard to the revenue; frauds being now much’ more difficult, -and consequently less frequent, since the quicksilver can be had only from one mine, than when several were open. But at the same time it is certain, that this prohibition was the principal cause of the decay of the silver mines in the province of Quito: and had the case been duly examined, many other remedies might have been found to prevent these clandestine practices, besides an absolute obstruction to so great a part of the riches of that country. _ Ir isthe opinion of some naturalists, and the marks of it are indeed very evident, that the ground on which the city of Cuenca stands, is entirely an iron mine, its veins shewing themselves in the chasms of some breaches; and the pieces taken out of the sloughs prove it beyond dispute, not only by their colour and weight, but by being attracted by the magnet, when reduced to small pieces; and many intelligent persons in these species of mines affirm, that it not only is an iron-mine, but also of extreme richness ; though this has not been ascertained by experiment. Ir is also equally unquestionable, that, were it pos- sible to turn the industry of the inhabitants into this channel, mines of copper, tin, and lead, might also be discovered, though no such thing is at present known. But it is natural to suppose, that, where there are so many mines of the most precious metals, those of copper and lead are not wanting. In the next chapter I shall give some account of other mines; _ together with the quarries of curious stone, and se- veral 460 A VOYAGE TO Boor VI. veral ancient monuments of antiquity, that nothing may be wanting towards the complete knowledge of this province, from which Spain derives such great advantages. CHAP. XI. Monuments of the ancient Indians, in the Juris- diction of Quito. Account of the several Gems and Quarries found near that City. “HE ancient imhabitants of Peru were far enough from carrying the sciences to any perfection, before the conquest of the country by the Spaniards. They were not destitute of all knowledge of them ; but it was so faint and languid, that it was far from being sufficient for cultivating their minds. They had also some glimmerings of the mechanic arts; but their simplicity, or want of taste, was so remark- able, that, unless forced by absolute necessity, they never departed from the models before them. The progress and improvements they made were owing to industry, the common directress of mankind. A close application supplied the want of science. Hence, after a long series of time, and excessive labour, they raised works, not so totally void of art and beauty, but that some particulars raise the admiration of an attentive spectator. Such, for instance, were some of those structures of which we have still superb ruins, in which, considering the magnitude of the works, and the few tools they were masters of, their con- trivance and ingenuity are really admirable. And the work itself, though destitute of European sym- metry, elegance, and disposition, is surprizing, even in the very performance of it. ; THESE Gna: XL SOUTH AMERICA. 401 These Indians raised works both for the conve- nience and veneration of posterity. With these the plains, eminences, or lesser mountaitis, are covered ; like the Egyptians, they had an extreme passion for rendering their burial-places remarkable. If the lat- ter erected astonishing pyramids, in the centre of which their embalmed bodies were deposited; the Indians, having laid a body without burial in the place it was to rest in, environed it with stones and bricks as a tomb; and the dependents, relations, and intimate acquaintance of the deceased, threw so much earth on it as to form a tumulus or eminence which they called guaca. The figure of these is not precisely pyramidical; the Indians seeming rather to have af- fected the imitation of nature in mountains and emi- nences. Their usual height is about eight or ten toises, and their length betwixt twenty and twenty- five, and the breadth something less; though there are others much larger. I have already observed, that these monuments are very common all over this Country ; but they are most numerous within the ju- risdiction of the town of Cayambe, its plains being as it were covered with them. The reason of this is, that formerly here was one of their principal tem- ples, which they imagined must communicate a sa- cred quality to all the circumjacent country, and thence it was chosen for the burial-place of the kings and caciques of Quito; and inimitation of them the’ caciques of all these villages were also interred there. A Tue remarkable difference in the magnitude of. © these monuments seems to indicate that the guacas were always suitable to the character, dignity, or riches of the person interred; as indeed the great number of vassals under some of the most potent caciques, concurring to raise a guaca over his body, it must certainly be considerably larger than that of y a pri- 462 “A VOYAGE TO Boox VÍ. a private Indian, whose guaca was raised only by his family and a few acquaintance: with them also were buried their furniture, and many of their instruments . both of gold, copper, stone, and earth: and these _ now are the objects: of the curiosity or avarice of the Spaniards inhabiting the country ; that many of them make it a great part of their business to break up those guacas, in expectation of finding something valuable: and, misled by finding some pieces of gold here and there, they so devote themselves to this search, as to spend in it both their sub- stance and time: though it must be owned, that many, after a long perseverance under disappoint-- ments, have at length met with rich returns for all their labour and expence. Two instances of this kind happened while we were in the country; the first guaca had been opened near the village of Cayambe, in the plain of Pesillo, a little before our arrival at Quito; and out of it were taken a considerable quantity of gold utensils; some of which we saw in the revenue-office, having been brought there as equivalents for the fifths. “The second was more recently discovered in the jurisdiction of Pastos, by a Dominican friar, who, from a turn of genius for antiquities, had laid out very large sums in this amusement; and at last met with a guaca in which he is said to have found great riches. This is cer- tain, that he sent some valuable pieces to the pro- vincial of his order, and other persons at Quito. The contents of most of them consist only of the skeleton of the person interred; the earthen vessels in which he used to drink chica, now called guaqueros ; some copper axes, looking-glasses of the ynca-stone, and things of that kind, being of little or no value, except for their great antiquity, and their being the works of a rude illiterate people. THE Cm XL. | SOUTH AMERICA. 463 ThE manner of opening the guacas is, to cut the lower part at right angles, the vertical and horizontal line meeting in the centre, where the corpse and its furniture are found. THE stone mirrors taken out of the guacas are of two sorts; one of the ynca-stone, and the other of the gallinazo-stone : the former is not transparent, of a lead colour, but soft; they are generally of a circular form, and one of the surfaces flat, with all the-smoothness of a crystal looking-elass ; the othér oval and something spherical, and the polish not so fine. They are of various sizes, but generally of three or four inches diameter, though I saw one of a foot and a half; its principal surface was concave, and greatly enlarged objects ; nor could its polish be exceeded by the best workmen among us. The great fault of this stone is, its having several veins and flaws, which, besides the disadvantage to the surface of the mirror, render it liable to be broken by any little accident. Many are inclined to think that it-is not natural, but artificial. ‘There are, it must indeed be owned, some appearances of this, but not sufficient for conviction. Among the breaches in this country, some quarries of them are found ; and quantities continue to be taken out, though nolonger worked for the use the Indians made of them. This does not however, absolutely contradict the fusion of - them, in order to heighten their quality, or cast them into a regular form, Tue gallinazo-stone is extremely hard, but as ‘brittle as flint: it is so called from its black colour, in allusion to the colour of the bird of that name; and is in some measure diaphanous, This the In- dians worked equally on both sides; and reduced it into a circular figure. On the upper part they drill- ed-a hole for a string to hang it by; the surfaces «Were as smooth as those of the former, and very ex- 3 actly A NON AGE TO Boox VI. actly reflect objects. The mirrors made of this stone were of different kinds, some: plain, some concave, and others convex. I have seen them of all kinds : and from the delicacy of the workmanship one would have thought these people had been furnished with all kinds of instruments, and completely skilled in opticks. Some quarries of this stone are likewise met with; but they are entirely neglected, though its transparency, colour, and hardness, besides its having no flaws or veins, render it very beautiful. Tue copper axes of the Indians differ very little in their shape from ours: and -it appears that these were the instruments with which they performed most of their works: for if not the only, they are the most common edge-tools found among them; and the whole apparent difference betwixt those they use, consists only in size and shape: forthough they all resemble an axe, the edge in some is more circular than in others. Some have a concave edge, others a point on the opposite side, and a fluted «handle These instruments were not all of copper, some ha- ving been found of gallinazo, and of another stone something resembling the flint, but less hard and pure. Of this stone, and that of the gallinazo, are several points, supposed to have been heads of spears, as these were theirtwo chief instruments or weapons: for, had | they used any other, some would doubtless have been found among the infinite number of guacas which have been opened. ull THE guaqueros, or drinking-vessels, are of a very fine black earth: but the place where they were made is utterly unknown. ‘They are round, and with a handle in the middle, the mouth on one side, and on the other the head of an Indian, whose features are so naturally expressed, that very few of our workmen could equal it. Others, though of thie same form, are of ared earth. Besides which there are found larger Cu, XI. SOUTH AMERICA. 465 larger and smaller vessels of both kinds of earth used in making and keeping the chicha, Amone the gold pieces are the nose-jewels, which in form resemble the foot of a chalice, and very little less: these were appended to the sep- tum, which divides the two nostrils. There are also found collars, bracelets, and ear-pendants, re- sembling the nose-jewels : but all these are no thicker than paper: the idols, which are at full length, are every where hollow within; and as they are all of one piece, without any mark of soldering, the me- thod they used in making them is not easily con- ceived. If it be said that they were cast ; still the difficulty remains, how the mould could be of such a fragility as to be taken away without dama- ging works, which, in all their parts, are so extremely thin. Tue maize has ever been the delight of the In- dians; for, besides being their food, their favourite liquor chicha was made of it; the Indian artists therefore used to shew their skill in making ears of jt ina kind of very hard stone; and so perfect was the resemblance, that they could hardly be distin- guished by the eye from nature; especially as the colour was imitated to the greatest perfection ; some represented the yellow maize, some the white; and in others the grains seemed as if smoke-dried by the length of time they had been kept in their houses. The most surprizing circumstance of the whole is, the manner of their working, which, when we consider their want of instruments and wretched form of those they had, appears an inexplicable my- stery : for either they worked with copper tools, a metal little able to resist the hardness of stones ; or, to give the nice polish conspicuous on their works, other stones must have been used for tools. But the labour, time, and patience, requisite to make Voz. I: Hh only 466 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. only a hole in the gallinazos, as was made in the mirrours ; and much more to give their surfaces such a smoothness and polish, that they are not to be dis- tinguished from the finest glass, must have been pro- digious. These are works which the most ingenious of our artists would be extremely at á loss to pro- duce, if they were allowed only pieces of copper and stones without any other tools or materials. Itis the greatest proof of the ingenuity of these people, that by mere dint of genius, and unassisted by information, they should attain to such contrivances and such a delicacy of workmanship. Y Er all that we have said is surpassed by the in- genuity of the Indians in working emeralds, with which they were supplied from the coast of Manta, and the countries dependent on the government of Atacames, Coaquis of Quaques. But these mines are now entirely lost, very probably through negli- gence. These curious emeralds are found in the tombs of the Indians of Manta and Acatames: and are, in beauty, size, and hardness, superior to those found in the jurisdiction of Santa Fé; but what chiefly raises the admiration of the connoisseur is, to find them worked, some in spherical, some cylindrical, some co- nical, and of various other figures; and all with a perfect accuracy. But the unsurmountable diffi- culty here is, to explain how they could work a stone of such hardness; it being evident, that steel and iron were utterly unknown to them. They pierced emeralds, and other gems, with all the delicaey of the present times, furnished with so many tools: and the direction of the hole is also very observable ; in some it passes through the diameter; in others, only to the centre of the stone, and coming out at its circumference they formed triangles at a small dis- tance from one another: and thus the figure of the stone to give it relief was varied with the direction of the holes. | AFTER XI. SOUTH AMERICA. 467 - Avrer this account of the guacas of these ido- latrous nations, the custom which equally pre- vailed among the southern nations of Peru, I pro- ceed to theit superb edifices, whether temples, pa- laces, or fortresses : and though those in the king- * dom of Quito are not the ost stately aúd mag- nificent, the court and residence of the yncas ha- ving been in the province of Cusco; yet some of the for mer sufficiently denote the erandeur of the In- dians who then inhabited it, and their fondness for such edifices ; intending as it were to hide the rusticity of their architecture under richness and. magnificence which they profusely bestowed on their edifices, whe- ther of brick or stone. THE greatest part of one of these works is still ex- isting, near the town of Cayambe, being a temple built of unbaked bricks. It stands on an eminence of some height; its figure is perfectly circular, and its diameter eight toises. Of this structure nothing now remains but the walls, which are in good con- dition ; and about two toises and a half in height, and “four or five feet in thickness. The cement of the bricks is of the same earth with that of which they are made: and the hardness of them may be conceived, from remaining so long ina good con- _dition exposed to the injuries of weather, having no cover. Besipes the ancient tradition that this structure was one of the temples of those times, the manner of its construction countenances such a conjecture : for + its circular form, without any separation in the inside, shews it to have been a place of public resort, and not any habitation. The smailness of the door ren- dersit probable, that, though the yncas entered into their palaces in the chairs in which they were carried, as will be seen hereafter, this place they entered on foot, in token of veneration; the dimensions of the Hh ag door ‘ 468 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI door notadmitting of any other manner. And, as I have before observed, that one of the principal tem- ples was not far from hence, this was probably the very structure. ¿Ar the extremity of the plain which runs north- ward from Latacunga, are still seen the walls of a palace of the yncas of Quito; and is still called by its ancient name Callo. At present it serves for the mansion-house of a plantation belonging to the Au- “ gustines at Quito. If it wants the beauty and gran= deur which characterise the works of the ancient Egytians, Greeks, Romans, and other nations versed in the fine arts; yet, 1f we make proper allowance for the rusticity. of the Indians, and compare this with their other buiidings, the dignity of the prince will be abundantly conspicuous, in the prodigious magnitude of the materials, and the magnificence of the structure. You enter it through a passage five or six toises in length, leading into a court, “round ' which are three spacious saloons, filling the three other sides of its squares. Each of these saloons has several compartments ; and behind that which faces the entrance, are several small buildings, which seem to have been offices, except one; and this, from the many divisions in it, was, in all probability, a me- nagerie. Though the principal parts still continue, the ancient w are is something disfig ured, dwellings having been lately built among them, and alterations made in the chief apartments. Tuts palace is entirely of stone, equal in hard- ness to flint; and the colour almost black. They are exceedingly well cut, and joined so curiously, that the point of a knife, or even so much as a piece of the finest paper cannot be put betwixt them ; so that they only shew the walls to be of different stones ; and not one entire composition; but no cement is perceivable. ‘The stones without aré all of a convex figure 5 See Explan of the Plates. PLV. Pag. 408. Needle se Strand. La Le ARO ye AE PR A ET AR mes 2 A . Wis a * 4 re 4 Al 4 af xd 2 a AA y A : E e ! » 4 LA dt ‘ * + Ny ma | ¿ CH Xf. SOUTH AMERICA. 469 figure; but at the entrance of the door are plane. But there is a visible inequality, both in the stones and in their courses ; which gives a more singular air to the work; for a small stone is immediately fol- lowed by one large and ill-squared ; and that above is made to fit the inequalities of the other two, and at the same time fill up all the interstices between the projections andirregularity of their faces ; and this in such perfection, that, whatsoever way they are viewed, all parts appear joined with the same exactness. The height of these walls is about two toises and a half, and about three or four feet in thickness. The doors are about two toises high, and their breadth at the bottom about three or four feet; but runs narrowing upwards, where the aperture is only two feet and a half. The doors of the palaces, where the yncas resided,’ were made of such a height, to allow room for the chairs in which the monarch was carried on men’s shoulders into his apartment, the only place in which his feet touched the ground. It is not’ ‘known whether this or the other palaces of the yneas had any stories, nor how they were roofed : tor those we examined were either open, or had been roofed by the Spaniards: But it is highly probable that they covered them with boards, in the form of a terrace, that is, supported by beams laid across : for in the walls there is nothing near the ground that affords room for a conjecture, that they ever sup- ported any roofs: on this horizontal roof they con- trived some slope for carrying off the waters. The reason of contracting their doors at the top was, that the lintel might be of one stone; for they had no idea either of arches or of key-stones, as may be conclu- ded from no such works occurring among all their edifices. ABOUT fifty toises north of this palace, fronting its entrance, is a mountain, the more singular as Hh3 being i ‘ 470 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. being in the midst of a plain: its height is betwixt twenty-five and thirty toises, and so exactly, on every side, formed with the conical roundness of a sugar-loaf, that it seems to owe its form to industry ; especially as the end of its slope on all sides forms exactly with the ground the same angle in every part. And what seems to confirm this opinion is, that gu- acas, or mausoleums, of prodigious magnitude, were greatly affected by the Indians in those times. Hence the common opinion, that it is artificial, and that the earth was taken out of the breach north of it, where a little river runs, does not seem impro- bable.- But this is no mere than conjecture, not being founded on any evident proof. In all ap- pearance this eminence, now called Panecillo de Callo, served as a watch-tower, commanding an un-' interrupted view of the country, in order to provide for the safety of the prince on any sudden alarin of an invasion, of which they were under continual ap- prehensions, as will appear from the account of their fortresses. . | Axsout two leagues north-east of the town of Atun-Canar, or great Canar, is a fortress or palace of the yncas. It is the most entire, the largest, and best built in all the kingdom. Close by its entrance runs a littie river, and the back part of it terminates in a high and thick wall at the slope of a mountain. In the middle of it is a kindof oval tower; about two toises high from the ground with- in the fort, but without it rises six or eight above that of the hill. In the middle of the tower is a square of four walls; which, on the side facing the country, leave no passage; and all its angles touch the circumference of the oval. On the op- posite side only, is a very narrow pass, answering to the inward part of the tower. In the middle of this square isan apartment of two small rooms, without any ?; ‘Cu XL, SOUTH AMERICA: 471 any communication; and the doors of them op- posite to the space which separates them. In the sides towards the country are loop-holes; and in critical times it was made a court of guard. From the outside of this oval tower, a wall is extended on the left side about forty toises, and about twenty- five on the right; this wall was continued in a great number of irregular angles, and inclosed a large spot of ground. It had only one entrance, which was in the side opposite to the tower; and facing the last angle on the right near the rivulet. From this gate or entrance was a passage, just broad enough for two persons to walk abreast; and at the wall turned short off towards the tower; but always of the same breadth. After this it winded towards the breach, and widened so as to form a parade be- fore the tower. In these passages, at the distance of every two or three paces, one sees niches formed within the wall, like sentry-boxes: and on the other side two doors, which were entrances to the same number of soldiers de logis, and seem to have served the corps of the garrison for barracks. In the in- ner square, to the left of the tower, were several apartments, of which the height, disposition, and doors, are a sufficient proof that this was once the prince’s palace. All the walls being full of hollows, resembling cupboards, in which, as likewise in the two chambers of the tower, the niches, and along the passages, were stone pegs, with a head betwixt six and eight inches long, and three or four in dia- meter: the use of these probably was for hanging up their arms, Tue whole main wall on the slope of the mountain, and descending laterally from the oval tower, is very thick, and the outside perpendi- cular. Within is a large rampart, and on it a pa- rapet of an unusual height; and though the ram- Wh 4 part 472 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. part reached quite round the wall, there was only one ascent to it, which was adjoining to the oval tower. The outward and inward walls are all of the same kind of stone, very hard and well-polished : and disposed like those of Callo. The apartments also were without ceiling or flooring, like those of the above-mentioned palace. Ar Pomallacta, within the jurisdiction of the town of Guasuntos, are some rudera of another fortress like the former: and it is a common opinion here, that there was a subterraneous communication between these two fortifications; but this does not seem at all probable. For besides the distance of six leagues, the ground is very uneven, and inter- rupted by some of the smaller branches of the cor- dilleras, breaches, and brooks. The inhabitants are, however, very tenacious of their opinion: and some affirm, that a few years before our arrival in the coun- try, a person entered this subterraneous passage at the fort of Canar, but, his light going out, he was obliged to return. They farther say, that the en- trance is within the fort at the foot of the tower, — where indeed there is a small low door, but now choaked up with earth; and was doubtless for some use. But this does not imply that it led to the other fortress, as, besides a great quantity of lights, there must also have been here and there vent-holes or spi- racles, which, considering the mountains, is utterly impracticable. : Many other walls and ruins are seen all over the country, both in the plains, on the sides of the hills, and on their summits; but most in desert places, and without any vestige of a town or village near them; and except these three, they are either. of adoves or unknown stone, without any arrange- ment. The more irregular are thought to be the works of Indians before they were reduced by the yncas; Cr. XL SOUTH AMERICA, 475 yncas: but those of Callo, and the other two fortress- es, by their superior symmetry, shew that they are of a later date, and built under the direction of the yncas, who applied themselves with exemplary at- tention to promote necessary arts throughout all their conquests; possibly from this political view, that the people, sensible of the happy change, might be the better subjects. All these remains of an- tique edifices the Indians call Inca perca, the Yncas walls, ANOTHER Indian method of fortification, and of which there are still some remains, was, to dig three or four ranges of moats quite round the tops of such mountains, as, though high and steep, were not subject to frosts: and every one on the inside strengthened by a parapet, whence they could safely annoy the enemy. These they called Pucuras; and within the last range of moats they built barracks for the garrison. These kinds of forts were so com- mon, that one scarce meets with a mountain with- out them. On the peaks of Pambamarca, are three or four; and one of them on the place where we fixed our signal for the meridian triangles. In like manner we found them on almost all the other mountains; and the outward moat of circumvalla- tion was above a league in extent. The breadth and depth of each was alike ; but in respect of one another, there was not the same uniformity, some of them having a breadth of two toises and even more, and others not one; and the like difference is observable in their depth. It was, however, their constant care to make the inward bank at least three or four feet higher than the outward, to have the greater advan- tage over the assailants. THE junction and polish so much admired in all the remaining stone-works of the Indians, plainly shew, that they made use of some stones to AT A A VOYAGE TO Boox VI..° to polish others, by rubbing them together; it being highly improbable that they could bring them to such perfection with the few and awkward tools they used: as for the working of iron, they were undoubtedly strangers to it, there being many. mines of that metal in this country, and not one of them with any marks of having ever been touched. And no iron was found among them at the arrival of the Spaniards. But, on the con- trary, they shewed an extreme fondness for any thing made of that metal. ~ / I Have already mentioned the quarries, or mines, producing the two kinds of stone of which the Indians made their mirrors; and which were those most esteemed. There are likewise quarries of other stones, which, in a country where gold and silver mines do not abound, would be thought va- luable, Of these one is in the plain of ‘TValqui, south of Cuenca; out of which are taken very large. and beautiful blocks of white and very clear alabaster. Its only.fault is its softness: yet that is not such as to hinder all kinds of works from being made of it; or rather, its easiness con- tributes to their pefection: nor is there any dan- ger of large flakes flying off, which often spoil an entire piece. The only quarries of this stone are near Cuenca; but those of rock crystal I have seen in many parts, from whence I have had some very lange, clear, and transparent pieces, and of a remarkable hardness: but, as it is not esteemed here, no use is made of it; so that what is found is purely by accident. In the same jurisdiction of” Cuenca, and about two leagues north-west of the city, not far from the villages of Racan and Sa- ansay, is a small mountain, entirely covered with fliats; mostly black, some of a reddish cast, and others whitish. But, betg strangers to the sige! o Cu: XI. SOUTH AMERICA. 475 of cutting and filing them for fire-arms, the peo- ple make no use of them: and on some occasions, flints, either for muskets or pistols, have been sold at Cuenca, Quito, and all over the country, for two rials each; but one is the common price of them, being brought from Europe. Consequently, as there is here a whole quarry of them, their exorbitant price is wholly owing to a want of industry, as this would in a short time render them as expert at cutting flints as the Europeans. Arrer the mines of metals, and the quarries of large stones, it would be improper to omit the gems found in this province. I have already observed, that the jurisdiction of Atacames.and Manta for- merly abounded in emeralds of a fineness surpassing those of the mines of Santa Fé. Nota small num- ber of them was destroyed by an error of the first Spaniards, who came hither, imagining that, if they were real gems, they would stand the stroke of a hammer on an anvil. The loss of the mines of Atacames, and the neglect of many others of gold aud silver, was 1n some measure compensated by the discovery of several in*the jurisdiction of Cuenca; but which have been but little improved, though they exhibit the most inviting signs of their great riches, namely, fragments of rubies; and which, in- telligent persons say, are very fine. ‘These are usu- ally found among the sands of a rapid river, not far from the village of Azogues. The Indians, and others, frequently make it their business to go and wash those sands, where they find small sparks, about the biguess of a lentil, and sometimes larger; and it is not to be questioned but these are washed away by the continual allision of the water in its passage. along the mine. But the inhabitants, content with this piddling work, do not trouble themselves to trace the origin of the mine; though there is all the 476 A VOYAGE TO Boox VI. the appearance in the world that it would turn to’ very good account. 1 myself, when I was at that village, saw some of these sparks in their natural state; and both their colour and hardness sufficiently shewed that they were of a very fine sort. ANOTHER kind of stone is found in great plenty all over this country. It is of a fine green, and harder than alabaster, though not pellucid: but no more valued than any of the former; except that a few toys or utensils are made of it. ÍTerE are also some mines of sulphur, and some parts afford vitriol; but no farther known than as nature has placed them in view; not only the im- provement of them being entirely neglected, but scarcely any notice taken of those which lie on the surface of the ground; either because the in- habitants stand in no need of those minerals, or from their strong aversion to any thing that re- quires labour. Norru of Quito, betwixt two plantations, at the foot of mount Anlagua, one of which bears the same name, aud the other that of Courogal, runs a very large river, which petrifies any wood, leaves, &c. thrown into it. I have had whole branches thus petrified; and the porosity of the stem, the fibres of the rind, even the smallest veins of the leaves, and the meander of its fibrille, equally dis- cernible as when fresh cut from the tree. 1 have also had large pieces of timber petrified, which at first sight appeared to be wood thoroughly dried; no visible alteration having been made in them, except 11 colour. | Wiru all these appearances, I cannot think tha the wood, leaves, and the like, which are put into the river, are really turned into stone of such a hardness as that I experienced : but as the appearance is unde- viable, I shall offer an explanation of this supposed transmutation, T Cu. XI SOUTH AMERICA, | 477 Ir must be observed, that the rocks and all the parts which this river washes, are covered with a crust of hardness little inferior to that of the main rock; and this increases its volume, and distinguishes itself from the original rock, which is something yellowish. The inference I would draw from hence is, that the water of the river is mixed with petri- dying, viscid, and glutinous particles, which adhere to the body they surround: and as by their extreme subtility they insinuate themselves through its pores, they fill the place of the fibres, wnich the water in- sensibly rots off and separates, till at length all that was leaf or wood gives way to that petrifying mat- ter; which still retains the impression of the parts of the original, with its several veins, fibres, and ramifications. For at the time of its insinuation, the ducts of the wood, or leaves, serve for a kind of mould, by which it naturally takes the entire figure of the body into which it has obtruded itself. -Aw observation I made with some branches con- firms me in this opinion: for, having opened them, I found some leaves and bits of wood, which snapped on breaking; and the inside was as large as teal stone, the texture only remaining of its first sub- stance. But in others, the parts consolidated by the stony matter snapped; and the fibres, not having yet undergone a total corruption, retained the appearance of wood, though some were more rotten and decayed than others. I had also some leaves, the surface of which was only covered with a very fine lapideous tegument, but within were entire leaves, except here and there a little mark of decay. Ir is to be observed, that this matter much more easily fastens on any corruptible substance, than on the more compact and solid, as stones, and the like: the reason of which is, that in one it meets with pores, in which it fixes itself; but having 478 A VOYAGE TO. Boox VI having no such hold on the harder bodies, it is soon washed off by the agitation of the water; that if now and then such. crusts are seen on stones, they never make any sensible addition to their volume, though some excrement is now conspicuous from the difference of the colour; that of the petrified leaves, both within and without, is of a pale yellow; and the same prevails in the stems: though in these always witha mixture of that of the wood ‘itself when dry. Truoucn all the jurisdictions of the kingdom of Quito, from N. to S. are not molested by the vi- cinity of wild Indians, yet it is the misfortune of the governments of Quixos and Macas, Jean and May- nas, to be surrounded and intermixed with those bar- barians; so that by only passing the eastern Cordil- lera of the Andes, towards that part you usually meet with them: and from some parts of those emi- nences the smoke of their cottages may be seen. This sight is most frequently beheld from the moun- tain on the back of the town of Cayambe ; and all along to the northward, from the village ‘of Mira within the jurisdiction of the town of San Miguel di Ibarra. The sportsmen, when hanting on those hills, often see the smoke both on this side and like- wise on the same Cordillera, from the jurisdiction of Riobamba, to that of Cuenca. The village of Mira has often been surprized with’ the sudden appearance of some of these Indians; but they have as suddenly turned back, and with the same haste they came. It js not uncommon for Indians of these jurisdictions, from a fondness for sloth and licentiousness, to leave their houses and go over to the savages; as among them they may, without controul, follow their natu- ral idolatry, and give themselves up to drunkenness and all manner of vice; and, what they think a su- preme happiness, be served and attended By women, G whose Cu. XI. _ SOUTH-AMERICA., 479 whose office it is to take care of and support them: all their occupation being hunting, whenever com- pelled by necessity, or induced by a sudden fit of industry. Thus they livein a debasement of human nature; without laws or religion; in the most in- famous brutality; strangers to moderation; and without the ¡east controul or restraint on their ex- CESSEs. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. TH nnnneammatnl J.Buerrezi, Printer, Marshall-Street, Golden-Square. alien Cure eo. Cenc gals wey ay ah ener tate pe id q ad o oe ep o ENE aA TO Ae es A a ¿tiñe É Es Wha + de